Wine Plus magazine No. 47 - Summer 2014 by Maria Netsika

SUMMER 2014

Greek grapes from A to... X Cruising a sea of insular wines High-altitude vineyards Moschofilero

Eat, shop & explore in Thessaloniki Wine bars in Athens Gourmet trotting in 10 Greek islands Wine Plus guide: Best gathering places

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THE WINE PLUS MAGAZINE

Summer in three moves Move one. June is here and the breeze that refreshed our mood, ever since Mayday, keeps refreshing and …”stirring” my skirt! Our dreams are white boats, taking us on a journey through the Aegean. Move two. Summertime and the living is easy. July calls for looseness, lightness and food on outdoor tables. Suitcases with mouths open waiting to fill up. Off we go... Let’s go, like we did in the past, to the distant beach, you and me, on the beach serenity… Move three. Here comes the awesome month of August with swimmers inundating beaches and foodie tourists filling the tavernas. August is a great month. Through its endless days, seagulls make slow circles, soundless, over the perpetual swing of the Aegean sea. During the nights of black satin, the sky goes through a madness of shooting stars. And the August moon... it is an open secret that the moon calls for tranquillity and romantic sails. Dear readers, I wish you all a beautiful summer, with many - many dives, lots of relaxation on the beach, good reads in the shade, and, again, lots of dives. And when your appetite calls for your attention, try some of the recommendations of the issue you hold in your hands. I wish you “bon voyage” through its delicious pages. Maria Netsika

Contents

Heard it through the grapevine

Greek Grapes from A to... Χ

2014 Wine tasting safari in Greece - Cruising a sea of insular wines

Maria Netsika explores the exciting potential of well-known and unusual Greek wines.

Are you ready to give into this very Greek summer highlight?

Here, the new-ish wine spots we are most excited about.

Moschofilero

Wine bars in Athens

Eat, shop and explore in Thessaloniki

Wine Plus Guide – Best gathering places in Thessaloniki

Restaurants, fish-tavernas and ouzeri… a town circuit.

Gourmet trotting in 10 Greek island

Best gathering places in Athens

High-altitude vineyards: taste the difference

Best gathering places in Greek islands Culinary propositions not to be missed.

Worth savouring during your stay.

A hot list of the-gastronomic”musts”-while-travelling.

Summer in Greece

Greece’s coolest regions are producing world-class wines.

WINE PLUS magazine No 47 SUMMER 2014 Free press

Publisher WINE PLUS M. NETSIKA & Co 5 Kariotaki St. 546 45 Thessaloniki Τ: +30 2310 888311 F: +30 2310 888312 e-mail: info@wineplus.gr www.wineplus.gr

Editor Maria Netsika

Translation Sakis Kazakis

Design Red Fish

Contributing Editors Denny Kallivoka, Evi Kallini, Evi Karkiti, Melina Melikidou, Niki Mitarea, Kostis Zafirakis

Photos Heinz Troll

Print Beyond S.A.

w w w. a l p a-e st a t e.c o m

MALAGOUZIA ALPHA ESTATE

SAUVIGNON BLANC ALPHA ESTATE

SYRAH MERLOT XINOMAVRO ALPHA ESTATE

XINOMAVRO RESERVE OLD VINES ALPHA ESTATE

Robert Parker: 90pts Jancis Robinson: 16,5pts

Robert Parker: 91pts Jancis Robinson: 17pts

Robert Parker: 92pts Jancis Robinson: 17,5+pts

Robert Parker: 93pts Jancis Robinson: 17,5+pts

Heard it through the grapevine

Greek grape varieties

Sparkling wines

Greece has a fantastic arsenal of indigenous varieties with which to compete in the current marketplace. Most of them are full of distinctive, unconventional character (see p. 6). Malagousia is a variety that can explain in detail how Greek wine producers re-discover the quality dynamics of the domestic vineyard.

Greece produces some really compelling bubblies! Grapes such as Xinomavro from Amyndeon, Moschofilero from the Mantinia plateau in the Peloponnese, Debina from Epirus and Muscat of Alexandria grown in the Greek islands, have proven to be ideal for the production of fine celebration sparkling wines.

Photo: Malagousia, Domaine Gerovasilliou

Photo: Blink Zibbibo

Santorini P.D.O.

Robola of Kefalonia P.D.O. Exciting dry wines from indigenous grape Robola are being made in Kefalonia island. The moderating effect the sea has on the temperature is the key element to the ripeness and flavour of these wines. (see p. 16)

One could write tomes on the unique character of the island and its wines. Although Santorini is host to a number of indigenous grape varietals, the Assyrtiko reigns supreme. Santorini Assyrtiko is known for its pure, bright fruit, good structure, zesty acidity and intense minerality. There is no other wine quite like it.

Photo: San Gerassimo, Robola Cooperative of Kefalonia

Photo: Assyrtiko, Artemis Karamolegos Winery Drama P.G.I.

Naoussa P.D.O.

Drama is a wine region that has enjoyed huge investments over the last decades. Wines with a great personality are produced in some of the loveliest Greek estates, and producers devoted to quality and high aesthetic standards are to be found at this part of Easter Macedonia. The charm of their properties is embodied in their wines.

Long a wine-producing region in central Macedonia and one best known for its high-quality red wines. Core element of this success was and will always be Xinomavro, the noblest red grape variety of northern Greece. Devotees praise the wines’ rich fruit, tasty acidity and untamed tannins, which age beautifully, arguably they are the most age-worthy Greek dry reds.

Photo: Techni Alypias, Wine Art Estate

Photo: Ramnista, Kir -Yianni

Nemea P.D.O.

Mount Athos P.G.I.

The most thrilling red wine region in southern Greece -also the country’s largest winegrowing region- is famous for its local Agiorgitiko grape. Agiorgitiko produces wines that are full of ripe fruit, sunshine, soft sexy tannins, lots of flavour and good body. In local lore they are called the “blood of Hercules”; so deep red is their colour.

Α glorious expression of the blend Limnio/Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot is produced on the blessed stripe of land called Mount Athos, where almost every monastery has a long tradition of vine growing and wine making that dates back to the Byzantine era.

Photo: Nemea, Lafazanis

Photo: Epiphanis,Mylopotamos

Map of Flavours

The best wine experience in Thessaloniki

Warehouse C, Thessaloniki Port

29-30 November 2014

Organised by:

Τ: +30 2310 888.311 info@wineplus.gr www.wineplus.gr

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Greek Grapes | from A to... X

Greek Grapes from A to...X

Even if you can’t live under the Greek Sun, you can still enjoy Greek wines. This is glossary to help you understand and recognize the grapes you are going to love! Bring a bottle of their wines to your hosts and you will be a welcome guest forever!

Agiorgitiko (a-gee-or-GHEE-tee-ko): The king of red grapes in the Peloponnese, gorgeous Agiorgitiko is cultivated in Nemea. Its wines, dark, deep, rich and ripe are crowd pleasers. Deep red in colour with loads of cassis and blackberry flavour. Rich, mature, velvety taste and luscious texture. The supple young version is fruit-forward and will reward early enjoyment. However, there is enough big structure to support long-term cellaring (5-10 years).

palate. It is usually blended with another island red grape, Mantilaria.

Assyrtiko (a-SEAR-tee-ko): A startling Greek white grape, Assyrtiko is the dominant grape of Santorini that has successfully migrated to Halkidiki, Epanomi, Drama, Mount Pangeo, in Macedonia and the Peloponnese. It maintains a high acidity even in fully ripeness. With crispy acidity and excellent minerality, its wines are rich and refreshing. The aromas suggest citrus, lemon blossom, orange zest and grapefruit.

Limnio (Lee-mnee-O): Limnio is an ancient red grape varietal native to the island of Lemnos. It was mentioned by Aristotle and other ancient writers. Today it is cultivated not only in Lemnos, but also in Halkidiki, and northern Greece, where it produces lovely, silky red with the exotic perfume of wet violets and cherries.

Athiri (a-THEE-ree): This is another white grape, common to the islands of the southern Aegean and Halkidiki, in eastern Macedonia. Its wines have lovely floral aromas and a good mouth-watering attack that wakes up the palate. Debina (de-BEE-na): A white variety from Epirus whose wines place emphasis on the fruit. They are noted for their refreshing acidity and for the aroma’s finesse, which is reminiscent of green apple and pear. Debina offers a high potential for the production of effervescent wines. Kotsifali (ko-tsee-FA-lee): A red Cretan grape, Kotsifali produces wines that are wonderfully juicy with bright red plums and a good grip on the

Liatiko (Lee-A-tee-ko): An exclusively Cretan grape, Liatiko is considered one of the oldest Greek varieties. It matures in July, hence its name, which is a transliteration of “Juliatiko.” Liatiko is a variety with high alcohol potential that best demonstrates its qualities when sufficiently ripe.

Malagousia (Ma-la-ghoo-zee-A): This fine white Greek variety was saved from oblivion thanks to the acumen of several Greek producers who believed in its potential. Critical praise and consumer excitement have proven them right. Malagousia wines have strong fragrance, complexity and verve... haven’t I forgotten anything? Long, slightly peppery finish. Another Greek wine to try when you want to branch out and experiment. Mantilaria (Man-dee-la-ree-A): This red Aegean variety flourishes on the islands of Paros, Rhodes and Crete. It has an unruly character and is usually blended with other Greek varietals that soften its rougher qualities and add fine notes to its clearly earthy tones. Mantilaria is blended with Monemvasia in Paros, and Kotsifali in Crete.

Greek Grapes | from A to... X

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Mavrodaphne (Ma-vro-THA-fnee): This familiar aromatic grape is usually cultivated in the vineyards of Patras and Kefalonia. Most of its yield is used to produce the strong, sweet, high-grade, aged red wine that bears the same name. Moschofilero (Mos-ko-FEE-lai-ro): This variety is known as a blanc de gris, meaning that its skin colour can range from light pink to deep purple. It is cultivated on the plateau of Mantinia and in the southern Peloponnese. Moschofilero produces wines with notes of rose, mint, and lemon (see p. 24). Muscat: A large and famous family of grapes that is cultivated under various names in almost every single wine-producing country. Equally expansive is the variety of its wines that range from aged sweets to fresh, fruity effervescents, all of which are notable for their fine and impressive aromas. In Samos the White Muscat gives pretty fruity, sunny and charming sweat wines. Appealing, brilliant deep straw in colour. Fragrant with honey, apple and pear. Superb full-bodied, dense and concentrated. You haven’t lived if you haven’t tried a Samos Muscat wine. It’s the ultimate after-dinner as-the-sun-is-setting-sitting-by-thesea wine. Robola (ro-BO-la): This white grape, cultivated on the Ionian island of Cephalonia, is one of the most elegant Greek varieties. Its wines are fresh, with sunny notes of lemon.

Roditis (ro-THEE-tees): Wines from this variety are made throughout almost all of Greece, but with best results near Patras in the western Peloponnese, in parts of Macedonia, and in Thessaly. When its yields are controlled and it is carefully vinified, Roditis gives us light and inviting wines that exude the freshness of citrus, apple and pear. Savatiano (sa-va-tee-a-NO): The most ubiquitous grape, Savatiano is found in Attica and throughout the whole of central Greece. Along with Roditis, it is the main grape used for the production of Retsina. Vilana (vee-LA-na): An old Cretan variety, Vilana is a sensitive white grape which, when cultivated with care to produce modest yields, offers pleasant wines with flowery and fruity aromas. Xinomavro (xee-NO-ma-vro): A red grape, it is the prime variety of northern Greece and is cultivated widely from the slopes of the central Greek mountains to the ranges of Pindos. It is the grape of P.D.O. Naoussa, Goumenissa, Amyndeon, and Rapsani. Xinomavro has a distinctive, dark-red colour and an acidic taste even when ripe. Its name means “sour black.” When young, Xinomavro wines are unyielding, but they soften with time and age beautifully, acquiring a unique complexity and palate that yields successive waves of cherry-tomato, plums, violets, lilies… -whatever you are looking for, you will probably find it in here eventually. The wines can be a touch tannic but will smooth out with an hour or two of decanting.

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | Cruising a sea of insular wines

A wine tasting safari in Greece by Maria Netsika

Cruising a sea of insular wines Setting sail for the Greek islands where the sun is warm, the seas are crystal clear, the moon is red and the north wind cools the vineyards. Our “wine” sailing tour will take us to the islands of the Aegean archipelago and the Ionian sea.

Samos

A unanimous decision: “First stop: Lemnos” The tailwind gently blows. Sailing southwards, the first stop is Lemnos. The island is known for its aromatic white wines; the dry Lemnos and the sweet Muscat of Lemnos. Both P.D.O., made exclusively with Muscat of Alexandria grapes. To accurately record the profile of the dry wines of Lemnos, one only needs to refer to their attractive, fine aromas of rose and mint and their light, pleasant taste. When it comes to the sweet wines, aromas are more profound and more intensive. The flavour is exuberant, finishing with a very pleasant, fruity aftertaste. Lemnos, however, also hosts vineyards where the red grape Limnio is grown, giving beautiful, red wines.

The golden wines of Samos Our next port is Samos, a mountainous island offering an ideal environment for agriculture. On the slopes of the island’s two mountains, on terraces starting from sea level to up to 800m, the locals grow the aromatic variety White Muscat (Muscat Blanc à petits grains). The quality of sweet wines of Samos (P.D.O.) is well known and their reputation has long crossed the Greek borders. This was achieved thanks to the ideal ecosystem, on one hand, and the centuries-old experience in winemaking, on the other. For the production of Samos vins doux and vins doux naturels, grapes are harvested at high maturity and the fermentation is stopped by the addition of alcohol, while vins naturellement doux are made from overripe or sun-dried grapes. Wines are released when still fresh, just a few months after vinification or after maturation in oak casks to develop their bouquet. All of them seduce us with their glowing golden colour, explosive aromas and tender, honeyed taste. One should not overlook, however, the elegant, dry Samian wines.

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | Cruising a sea of insular wines

From the ancient “Melantanon” wine to present day wines of Kos The wine cruise brings us down to the south-eastern edge of Greece. Sailing among the Dodecanese Islands cluster, we arrive at Kos. The attempt to revive the island’s long winemaking tradition is carried out by cultivating the Greek varieties Athiri, Assyrtiko and Malagousia, along the international varieties Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache Rouge, Syrah and Tempranillo, in order to produce excellent wines (P.G.I.).

Santorini’s wine charms Entering the waters of the Cyclades to board unique Santorini. Coming here once is enough! You are a life-long prisoner of the island. The beauty is breathtaking, the charms uncountable. We will rejoice in one of them: wine. Vineyards in Santorini are seen along almost the entire road network. Your gaze is drawn to them, even when you do not want to look. Lying low in a typical basket-like shape, they are nothing like the tall and strong vines found in most areas. The dominant grape is Assyrtiko; white, maintaining its fairly high acidity even at full maturation. From that grape, winemakers make the dry P.D.O. Santorini. Lively and bold, it is recognized by the zesty acidity, the generous alcohol content and the robust citrus aromas with their metallic aftertaste. A unique set! Along its dry wines, the island has a long tradition of sweet wines, called Vinsanto (P.D.O.). To produce a Vinsanto, grapes are laid under the sun to dehydrate, to shrivel and thus increase their sugar content. Vinification and aging in oak barrels produce a sweet wine with a golden colour, soft, velvety taste and aromas reminiscent of figs, honey, chocolate.

Hic Rhodus! Pull anchors! Our next port is Rhodes. Rhodes owes the reputation of its wines to the island’s perfect climate, with many sunny days. It enjoys the most sunshine throughout Greece! Enter significant rainfalls in a well concentrated period to arrive at a favourable climate for viticulture. The vineyard of Rhodes, in small and scattered plots, is divided in two zones differentiated by altitude. In the privileged high altitude zone, on the slopes of Mount Attaviros, viticulturers grow their vineyards in terraces. As the island has never experienced the phylloxera disease, some of these vineyards are 50-60 years old! The grapes grown here are Athiri and Mantilaria, the most common varieties of the Aegean sea. Along with them, we meet the White Muscat and one of its clones, the Muscat Trani. The wines produced (P.D.O. and P.G.I.) are white and red, dry and fresh with rich colour and structure. It should also be borne in mind that Rhodes was the first Greek area to serve local sparkling wine to Greeks. Today, this tradition, strengthened with expertise and modern technology, gives us sparkling wines with finesse and character.

Landing on wine-producing Crete Wherever we find ourselves in «leventomana» [the hero-breeder] Crete, it is worth enjoying the delights of its famous healthy nutrition. Only to be escorted by Cretan wines. Despite its southern location, Crete is ideal for viticulture, which is why the island produced one-fifth of Greek wines. The Cretan vineyard is considered one of the most traditional of Europe and is found on the northern side. Not by chance, of course. The island may be famous for

Lemnos

Kefalonia Samos

Kos

Santorini

Crete

Rhodes

A wine tasting safari in Greece | Cruising a sea of insular wines

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its mild and healthy climate, but the five-month long summer, which makes it so popular with tourists, does not necessarily favour crops. The summer drought is not easily defeated. So growers set up their vines behind the mountainous backbone of Psiloritis, to protect them from the burning southern winds, on the valleys and slopes cooled by the Aegean breeze. This is why the majority of vineyards is located in the north central part of the island, around Heraklion, as well as around Sitia, in the easternmost part of the island. Indigenous varieties Vilana, Kotsifali, Mantilaria, Liatiko, Muscat, Dafni and Plyto are grown alongside foreign Syrah, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot. They produce a wide range of wines, white, rose and red, dry and sweet. And the legislator was quite generous allocating quality indications to the island. Count four P.D.O.: Archanes, Peza, Daphne, Sitia - and another four P.G.I.s.

Kefalonia, the land of Robola Our cruise ends in the Ionian Sea. The island with the cosmopolitan capital, the incredibly beautiful beaches and breathtaking natural attractions, is a doll serving us an ethereal white wine with an aroma of lemon and flowers, delicate metallic flavour, lively acidity and a body able to balance with such acidity, offering a delicious harmony. Meet Robola of Kefalonia (P.D.O.), made exclusively with Robola grapes. (see p. 16) Our wine cruise has come to an end. Clink your glasses and try once again the insular wines of Greece. The flavours are a legacy that will awaken our summer memories, even in the dullest days of winter.

P.D.O.: Protected Denomination of Origin - P.G.I.: Protected Geographical Indication

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A wine tasting safari in Greece | Cruising a sea of insular wines

Limnia Gi

Aroma of Lemnos

Anthemis

Xerolithia

Thrapsathiri

Domaine Chatzigeorgiou Lemnos P.D.O.

Limnos Wines Lemnos P.D.O.

Samos Coop Samos P.D.O

Mediterra Peza P.D.O.

Lyrarakis Crete P.G.I.

The 2013 Limnia Gi (100% Muscat of Alexandria) is a fascinating wine that bursts from the glass with beautiful intensity. The aroma is laced with perfumed rose, exotic fruit and sun-ripened apricot. The perfect match for your favourite spicy dishes. It has a ripe, almost sweet mouthfeel that is ideal for cleansing the palate after enjoying the hot stuff.

If you love the rose perfumed style of Muscat of Alexandria, snap this up. Terrific and refreshing white, a real fruit bomb with lovely acidity. A great success of Lemnos Agricultural Coop.

Visit the Samos vineyards and gaze up at the hill where the old White Muscat vines grow. It is an incredible sight and the wines that come from there are even better. Like lip-smacking delicious Anthemis, a pure expression of Greek sweet wines, subject to 5 years ageing in oak casks. Commune with Dionysus when you drink this honeyed elixir!

No other region in Crete makes such a wide selection of refreshing white wines as Peza. Made from Vilana grapes and vineyards facing the Aegean Sea, this very attractive wine is extremely fine with an undertow of green fruits. A good mouth-watering attack wakes up the palate and gets it ready for food.

The particularly rare Thrapsathiri grape planted on east facing slopes (altitude 500m) is the source material for this pretty, dense, fine white. Showing lovely green aromas now, it should evolve nicely over the next 5 years.

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SANTO Sparkling Wine Brut MĂŠthode Traditionelle

The volcanic soul of Assyrtiko with bubbles

photo: santorinipictures.gr

Assyrtiko is not an unfamiliar word, especially to the wine enthusiasts all over the world. The rare, white Greek grape has become an international star for lots of reasons: amazing wines, distinctive character and an outstanding way in which it imprints the birthplace â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Santorini. So the first sparkling Assyrtiko is smashing news! SANTO Sparkling Wine Brut MĂŠthode Traditionelle makes a world debut as the very first bubbly version of the famous variety by a Santorini producer. The label and bottle are stunning, underlying a pure cosmopolitan vibe. It is evident that SANTO WINES dreamt big and went all the way with impeccable attention to every little detail of the packaging; at the same time, the wine is made with the traditional method with second fermentation in the bottle and ageing on lees. When uncorked, the volcanic soul of Santorini fills the glasses! Crystalclear color, while the bubbles are both elegant and persistent. Seductive aromas of white peach notes and honey are complemented by a round palate with refreshing acidity and a long rejuvenating aftertaste. With just a sip you find yourself watching the mind-boggling sunset in Caldera, cruising around the impressive massive volcanic rocks of Santorini, taking a dive at the unique red-sand beach of the island. While SANTO Sparkling is an alluring aperitif, it works also great next to seafood and delicate white flesh fish. A must-try is definitely sushi, as well as similar Mediterranean dishes like tuna and salmon tartare, octopus and calamari carpaccio. A fab pairing tip is undoubtedly the unique Santorini Tomatoes, Fava and Capers that make a match made in Santorini heaven!

Founded in 1947, the Union of Santorini Cooperatives (SANTO WINES) represents all the cultivators of the island and today counts 1,200 active members. Promoting the unique Santorini heritage, maintaining highest quality, preserving biodiversity and sustainable development are the core values of SANTO WINES philosophy. The winery, privileged with a breathtaking location at Pyrgos village, is one of the top wine tourism destinations in Europe, hosting 300,000 visitors each year.

www.santowines.gr

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Santorini Hatzidakis Winery Santorini P.D.O.

Vibrant and youthful, this beauty is pure pleasure with great minerals, lemon and fresh lime aromas bursting from the glass. It also delivers that characteristic touch of salinity that you often get with Santorini. There’s tonic energy and brightness in the mouth thanks to the wine’s balanced acidity and its textural richness.

A wine tasting safari in Greece | Cruising a sea of insular wines

Thalassitis Oak Fermented

Sparkling Santo Brut

Mavrotragano

Vinsanto

Santo Wines

Domaine Sigalas Cyclades P.G.I.

Argyros Estate Santorini P.D.O.

Taste this sparking Assyrtiko and… the light of truth will shine upon the grape’s abilities. Pretty smart, delightfully dry and mature, fruity with layers of mineral notes and a core of tangy acid, it is made in the traditional style (method champenoise). A beautifully zesty, characterful aperitif from the increasingly fashionable Santorini Island.

Mavrotragano is one of many unknown varieties of the Santorini’s vineyard that dedicated winemakers -to the delight of wine aficionados- have managed to save from extinction. Spicy, smoky, vanilla-scented, with dense, ripe, chocolate-drenched cherry flavours Sigalas’s Mavrotragano always delivers great quality in just about any vintage.

If you wonder what a Vinsanto tastes like, this spectacular wine will certainly give you the perfect idea: dried fruits, chestnut aromas and dark chocolate flavours, creamy structure, mineral notes and “al dente” grip on the palate. Argyros Vinsanto is one of the best liquids sqeezed from grapes grown by previous generations that your nose and palate will be introduced to.

Gaia wines Santorini P.D.O.

A pure expression of Assyrtiko that is fermented in oak and subject to 5 months bâtonnage on fine yeast deposits. The wine possesses great intensity, good acidity to bring it into balance, citrus and smoke in the mix too. A delightful and vibrant Santorini that shows its elegance and pedigree with confidence.

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Velvet

Malagousia-Sauvignon Blanc

Cair Rhodes P.D.O.

Inambelos Kos P.G.I.

Rhodes is famous for top quality sparkling wines and Velvet is a toasty, creamy beauty with lots of apricot and brioche notes. The blend: Athiri and Chardonnay. Perfect with all those spicy nibbles on the holiday table, as well as oysters and shellfish.

Lovely white wine from the Kos island, where the sun shines bright! A Malagousia and Sauvignon Blanc blend of vibrant pale yellow colour and impressive white flowers, green apple and pear nose. Whether serving a homemade aioli (the great garlicky dipping sauce) or pan-seared scallops grilled in butter and garlic, it will be an ideal match.

Limnia Gi A white and a red Lemnos P.D.O. wine with a Mediterranean heart and an international soul. Limnia Gi white What a beautiful wine! Ultraclean and bright, this Muscat of Alexandria shows lovely varietal flavours of citrus fruits in a floral background. Dry and refreshing would be perfect with spicy dishes, grilled seafood, chicken, cheese and fruits. Limnia Gi red Limnia Gi red is made from Kalabaki or Limnio grape, an ancient variety indigenous to the island of Lemnos. Delicious with a pleasant dark berries and plums finish that goes on and on. Drink with pasta, grilled meats and game dishes.

DOMAINE CHATZIGEORGIOY Karpasi, Lemnos tel. + 30 22540 31082 www.chatzigeorgioulimnos.gr

Publi | Kefalonia: Land of Robola

Kefalonia Land of Robola According to Greek mythology, Kefalos was the son of Hermes and Ersi, the daughter of the founder of Athens, King Kekrops. The youth was expelled from his native land and, after much wandering, was led by divine guidance to settle on the island later to bear the name “Kefalonia”. He brought the vine with him, and in the time of Homer the wine made on Kefalonia was considered the most precious of gifts, capable of establishing friendships, creating new bonds, resolving disputes and forging alliances.

One need only wander a little about the southern end of Kefalonia to see that Kefalos’ vine is still cultivated everywhere, amid pine, cypress and olive trees. Exploring this area you will find lush greenery surrounding the 300 hectares of vineyards that climb the slopes of Mount Aenos to reach an altitude of 800 meters. Two-thirds of the island’s vineyards are located in mountainous and semi-mountainous regions and planted in limestone soils that are poor in organic matter. The climate is mild, rainfall is adequate, and the influences of Mount Aenos and the sea create an extremely favourable microclimate for grape growing. The vineyards are typically of very small size, producing low-yield, and excellent quality crops full of character. The grape varieties cultivated on Kefalonia are Robola, White Muscat, Mavrodaphne and other, less familiar, varieties such as Tsaoussi, Vostilidi, Moschatella and Zakinthino. Kefalonia is the only Ionian Island to have been granted Appellation of Origin for its wines - and it has not one but three, for Robola of Kefalonia, Muscat of Kefalonia and Mavrodaphne of Kefalonia (the latter two must be vinified as sweet wines to be so distinguished on the label). Kefalonia also has a Regional Wine Designation – Slopes of Aenos. Experts commonly accept that Robola of Kefalonia is one of the finest Greek white cultivars. The vine is well adapted to the difficult, stony soils of the Kefalonian highlands, and it is this soil that gives the potential for wines of exceptional quality, which are characterised by delicate citrus and mineral aromas, balanced acidity and medium body with a long aftertaste. Robola pairs perfectly with fish, seafood (including sushi and oysters), lemon sauces and white cheese. The Robola zone covers a high-altitude, limestone area in the centre of the island, mainly in the vicinity of the village of Omala and the Monastery of St. Gerassimos, the patron saint of the island. The Muscat and Mavrodaphne zones are both located on the Palliki peninsula, although there is a scattering of Mavrodaphne grown in other parts of Kefalonia. The main difference in the appellation zones is that, while Robola is grown almost exclusively at high altitudes, the other two grapes can also be found relatively close to sea level.

The cultivation of Robola here is one of the greatest achievements of Kefalonian agriculture as the vines literally emerge from amongst the stones, prompting the Venetians to call the wine “Vino di Sasso” - wine of stone. These rocks, however, hide a soil of clay and lime and play a major role in the ripening of the grapes. The planting formation is cup-shaped, and pruning is low. Harvesting usually takes place between the beginning of August and the beginning of September, with yields not exceeding 4 tons per hectare. White Muscat (Moschato Bianco), which has been granted a Vin de Liqueur appellation and can produce sweet wines of exceptional quality, has long been cultivated on the island. The Venetians prized this wine so highly that they imposed a special monopoly on its export so that it could always be available for the Venetian dinner table. It is grown on lime-rich clay soil, which is mostly found at the southern end of the Palliki peninsula. Mavrodaphne, which has also been granted a Vin de Liqueur appellation, is a productive, drought resistant red variety which was first cultivated on Kefalonia but can now be found on other Ionian Islands and on the neighbouring coast of the Peloponnese. However, despite the appellation, Mavrodaphne on Kefalonia has traditionally been vinified as a dark red, rich dry wine, which develops best when aged in oak casks. Today, within the framework of a winemaking renaissance, a number of innovative and forward-looking wineries are pursuing interesting activities. The aim of these wineries is the production of high-quality wines that meet the demands of today’s markets. The reviews and international awards that Kefalonian wines have earned over the last decades show that they are on par with some of the best worldwide. On the island you will find the following wineries, many of which are open to visits from wine-lovers: Robola Cooperative of Kefalonia, Gentilini Winery & Vineyards, Sclavus Wines, Melissinos Winery, Menousis, Haritatos Vineyard, Domaine Foivos.

Publi | Kefalonia: Land of Robola SAN GERASIMO Producer: Robola Cooperative of Kefalonia Type/Category: Dry White/ Robola of Kefalonia P.D.O. Origin: Selected mountainous vineyards of Omala area Grape varieties: 100% Robola Tasting notes: A pure expression of Robola, the 2013 San Gerasimo shows exceptional varietal personality with citrus and mineral aromas. Very balanced, with crisp acidity and complexity.

Robola Producer: Menousis Wines Type/Category: Dry White/ Robola of Kefalonia P.D.O. Origin: Omala area Grape varieties: 100% Robola Tasting notes: This Robola reveals mineral and flower aromas, as well as a citrus-flavoured character.

Gold Producer: Melissinos Winery Type/Category: Dry White/ Slopes of Aenos P.G.I. Origin: Elios, on the SE part of Kefalonia Grape varieties: Zakinthino, Vostilidi, Robola Tasting notes: Bright golden-yellow colour, aromas of flowers, citrus and stone fruits, full flavour, refreshing acidity due to its special blending, and a long lemony aftertaste.

Moschato Producer: Haritatos Estate Type/Category: Dry White Origin: Lixouri Grape varieties: 100% Muscat Tasting notes: A classic White Muscat with a rich character and no shortage of fruit. Complete, confident and zesty.

ECLIPSE Producer: Gentilini Winery & Vineyards Type/Category: Dry Red/ Mavrodaphne of Kefalonia P.D.O. Origin: Minies area Grape Varieties: 100% Mavrodaphne Tasting notes: This is a dark, almost inky wine, with generous, layered aromas of red fruit, spiced with hints of licorice and wild mint. In the mouth it is rich, complex and impressive, with soft, round tannins and an endless aftertaste. A true taste of Kefalonia in a glass!

Orgion Producer: Sclavus Wines Type/Category: Dry Red/ Mavrodaphne of Kefalonia P.D.O. Origin: Palliki Grape varieties: 100% Mavrodaphne Tasting notes: Deep ruby. Aromas recall ripe blackberry, dark chocolate and delicate smoky oak tones. This dry and impressively tannic wine has layers and layers of fruit beneath just waiting to come to the surface. Full bodied with a very long finish, this wine will reward long-term ageing (2-5 years).

WINE

A wine tasting safari in Greece | High-altitude vineyards

High-altitude vineyards: taste the difference Greece’s coolest regions are producing world-class wines

Metsovo

The winters are cold, at low temperatures, strong winds, lots of snow and heavy rainfall. The summer is filled with the clear, mountainous wind and the unobstructed sun. Growing on hill-sides easily reaching 700-800 meters of altitude, or spread in plateaus at 500-600 meters, the Greek mountainous and semimountainous vineyards are grown in conditions much harder than their lowland cousins. Grape ripening in the mountains is much harder than in the plains, despite the beneficial difference of temperature between night and day. There are years when ripening is even incomplete. But this “difficulty” reflects admirably in the character of wines produced up in the mountains. The whites and rosés are remarkably fine and fresh. The reds are robust and fruity. To make a tour of all mountainous vineyards in Greece, you need to start at Epirus, stopping at Zitsa and Metsovo. In Macedonia, you must stop at Amyndeon, Siatista, Ossa and Askos in Vertiskos Mount/Thessaloniki. In Thessaly, you will need to climb to Rapsani and Krania, on the slopes of mount Olympus. Arriving in Peloponnese, you must visit the mountainous vineyards of Nemea (Asprokampos and Koutsi) and stop at the Mantinia plateau (see p. 24) before turning west for a breathtaking view of the Corinthian gulf from Egialia. Finally, cruising the Aegean sea, you will need to visit the mountainous areas of Samos and Rhodes. In this summer’s Wine Plus magazine we taste wines from all these vineyards.

Egialia

Αskos

Amyndeon Siatista Metsovo

Krania Rapsani

Zitsa

Kefalonia

Egialia

Nemea/Asprokampos Mantinia

A wine tasting safari in Greece | High-altitude vineyards

WINE

Zitsa semi-sparkling

Katogi Averoff

Akakies

Alpha Estate

Malagousia

Ζoinos Zitsa P.D.O.

Katogi & Strofilia Macedonia P.G.I.

Kir-Yianni Amyndeon P.D.O.

Florina P.G.I.

Arvanitidis Estate Thessaloniki P.G.I.

This semi-sparkling offering from Debina grapes grown on steep limestone slopes of Zitsa region/Northeastern Epirus (altitude: 700m) shows real class and finesse. Fresh, fruity fizz with a hint of lemon and good acidity is a superb wine for aperitif or summer parties.

Blended from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Agiorgitiko this deep red beauty offers threedimensional nose and flavour complexity in its mountainous austerity. Coming from Metsovo high-altitude vineyard (900-1.000m), this is a stylish and very classy wine. Match it with stews, rich pasta dishes and grilled lamb.

Kir Yianni is of course famous for Ramnista (P.D.O. Naoussa) that virtually defines the region. But as long as they’ve been producing first class Naoussa they have made superb Amyndeon rosé right alongside. This classic, racy rosé Xinomavro offers fruit concentration and richness allied to fine acidity. Perfectly calibrated for pleasure, it leaves you wanting more and more and more…

A terrific producer and a great white wine. Alpha Estate is a solid producer from Amyndeon plateau/Macedonia to the west (altitude: 570-750m). The wine, a multi awardwinner, makes us realize just how well Sauvignon Blanc can perform in Greece. Zesty and refreshing with intense lime and grapefruit aromas and flavours. In the outstanding 2013 vintage they’ve created what might be their best SB ever!

This fresh and elegant Malagousia reflects the highest quality of Thessaloniki’s semi-mountainous Askos district. A jump-out-of-the-glass fruity aroma with lovely spicy finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste. Refreshing enough to enjoy without food but you’d love to try it with vegetables, shellfish, fish, even oysters.

Publi | Kir-Yianni

“Koula” *

Kir-Yianni Estate Kir-Yianni Estate Yianakohori, 59200 Naoussa, Greece T: +30 23320 51100 , F: + 30 23320 51140 www.kiryianni.gr

The Kir-Yianni Estate was founded in 1997 by Yiannis Boutaris, one of the leading figures in the Greek wine industry, when he left the Boutari Wine Group, the premium family wine company that his grandfather established in 1879. The Kir-Yianni Estate continues a long family tradition focusing on the production of high quality wines, which combine style with authenticity and offer true enjoyment, from grapes produced at the Estate´s extensive vineyard holdings in the two wine regions of Naoussa and Amyndeon, on the two sides of mount Vermio in North-Western Greece. Today the Kir-Yianni Estate, led by Stellios Boutaris, son of Yiannis, follows its vision into the next phase of its history, by dynamically exploiting the cornerstones of the Kir-Yianni philosophy: desire for innovation, respect for tradition and true knowledge of the wine, from the grape to the end consumer. The Vineyards and the Wineries The Naoussa vineyard covers 60 ha and lies at an altitude of 280−330 m. It is divided in 38 parcels, each with its own terroir, which are vinified separately giving a unique character to the final blend. The soil is mostly clay and sandy clay. The micro-climate of the area is defined by lots of rain and snow in the winter, mild and wet springs and hot dry summers, that are usually cooled down by the cold breezes from Mt Vermion. The vineyard is planted with Xinomavro (50%), Syrah (15%), Merlot (20%), Cabernet Sauvignon (10%), while the rest of the area is covered by various experimental varieties, such as Malbec, Petit Verdot, Negro Amaro and Mavrodaphne. The vineyards in Amyndeon are located at an altitude of 700m and cover a total area of 16.5 ha. The soil here is sandy and poor, thus favouring the production of wines of exquisite finesse and rich aroma. The microclimate of the area is known for its cold winters and hot summers, while the presence of the four lakes tempers the continental climate preventing extreme weather conditions. Furthermore, Kir-Yianni has contracts with local producers for another 40 ha guaranteeing the provision of first class fruit. International white varieties - Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer – as well as indigenous varieties Roditis, Assyrtiko, Malagousia, and Malvasia Aromatica - are grown here. The application of integrated cultivation methods, in all Kir-Yianni vineyard activities is a management decision based on the family’s

philosophy of respect for the environment. Furthermore, integrated cultivation ensures high quality for all the products of the Estate. Its application is certified by the Organization for the Certification and Supervision of Agricultural Products AGROCERT, since 2004. Production – products Selection is the key word: Each part of the Kir-Yianni estate vineyards is harvested separately, two or three times, based on the phenolic ripening of the grapes. After the first selection in the vineyard, the grapes are brought to the sorting table, to pick only the best. A similar picking phase is also performed during wine-making and aging, in order to ensure that only the best wines are bottled. Kir-Yianni is in constant experimentation regarding the quality and type of wood (origin, capacity, burning, size of pores) used in the barrels. The main aim is always the creation of wines of a special character: Rich but refined aroma, acidity to provide body and ageing potential, perfect balance in the mouth and ease of combination with various dishes constitute the distinct style of Kir-Yianni wines, which makes them truly appealing for the modern consumer. In Kir-Yianni Estate in Naoussa the flagship Kir-Yianni Estate (Yianakohori) is produced, as well as, the 100% Xinomavro Ramnista, and the superblend Dyo Elies. In 2008, Diaporos, a single vineyard modern style Xinomavro was also released. In 2011, Ble Alepou, “Blue Fox” in English, a Bordeaux blend was launched in selected markets. In Kir-Yianni Estate in Amyndeon the focus is on whites: Tesseris Limnes, a unique blend of Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer, the classic Samaropetra, a Roditis and Sauvignon Blanc blend, and Petra, a Roditis and Malagouzia blend are produced. Also, the very successful rosé Akakies, the only dry P.D.O. rosé is produced from 100% Xinomavro, together with its “sibling”, Akakies Sparkling, which became an instant success as soon as it was released in summer 2012. Two red wines complete our portfolio: Paranga, the house red blend produced by grapes sourced mostly in Amyndeon, and Kali Riza, our newly launched 100% Xinomavro from old vines. * “Koula” or “Konaki”, the traditional watchtower at the heart of the Estate, has become the winery’s emblem and today houses a modern wine-tasting room, exhibition facilities, as well as, the residence of the Boutari family.

Publi | Kir-Yianni

TESSERIS LIMNES 2013 Type/Category: White, dry/ P.G.I. Florina Origin: Selected blocks of the Samaropetra, Palpo and Droumo vineyards Grape varieties: Chardonnay (60%), Gewürztraminer (40%) Celllaring: 50% of the Chardonnay age for 8 months in new French oak barriques. Ageing potential: 2-4 years Winemaker notes: Tesseris Limnes 2013 is a wine with even fuller body and volume, the result of a very good year for Amyndeon, which allowed the grapes, and especially Gewürztraminer, to reach higher levels of maturity. Malolactic fermentation endowed it with an unctuous mouthfeel balancing its vivid freshness. Pronounced and well-defined aromas of rose, white flowers and vanilla and a flavourful lingering aftertaste complete the experience of this wine, which shows a powerful character and an enchanting complexity.

SAMAROPETRA 2013 Type/Category: White, dry/ P.G.I. Florina Origin: Private vineyards and contract-growers in Agios Panteleimonas, Florina Grape varieties: Roditis (50%), Sauvignon Blanc (50%) Cellaring: Batonnage in stainless steel tank for 2 1/2 months. Ageing potential: 2-3 years

AKAKIES SPARKLING 2012 Type/Category: Dry Sparkling Rosé/ P.D.O. Amyndeon Origin: Selected contracted vineyards of the area of Agios Panteleimon, in the PDO zone of Amyndeon Varieties: 100% Xinomavro Cellaring: The base wine stays on its lees and is frequently stirred for 3 months. Ageing potential: 2-3 years

Winemaker notes: The 2013 Samaropetra has a bright yellow colour. On the nose it is intensely aromatic, with complex white flower and white peach aromas on a background of green bell pepper and buchsbaum. On the palate it is refreshing, with an elegant and vivid character balanced by a round mouthfeel and a lingering, fruity finish. Excellent pair to seafood, pasta in white sauce and salads, it can also be enjoyed alone, as a refreshing aperitif.

Winemaker notes: An even brighter colour, more vivid acidity and lower alcohol distinguish the 2012 Akakies Sparkling from previous vintages. These features, in combination with the juicy aromas of strawberry, the elegant vegetal character, the discrete presence of sugar and the playful, lingering finish, make up a wine that embodies all the power and the finesse of the mountainous Amyndeon terroir.

DYO ELIES 2010 Type/Category: Red Dry / P.G.I. Imathia Origin: Selected blocks (#19, 32, 23 & 15) of the Naoussa vineyards at Kir-Yianni Estate Varieties: Syrah (60%), Merlot (30%), Ximomavro (10%) Cellaring: 16 months in 225 lt French and American oak casks – further ageing in bottle for another 6 months. Ageing potential: 12-15 years Winemaker notes: A wine with an intense red colour, Dyo Elies 2010 displays pronounced aromas of strawberry, cherry and black pepper on the nose, combined with notes of vanilla and tobacco from oak aging. On the palate, the rich aromatic character balances with the lip-smacking acidity and the soft tannins, which are the signature trait of the 2010 vintage. The long finish, leaving red fruit and black pepper flavours in the mouth, underpins the charming and complex character of a wine that is ready to drink now, while it can still benefit from long bottle ageing.

WINE

A wine tasting safari in Greece | High-altitude vineyards

Rapsani Reserve

Domaine Katsaros

Driopi Estate Reserve

Asprolithi

Robola of Kefalonia

Tsantali Rapsani P.D.O.

Krania P.G.I.

Nemea P.D.O.

Oenoforos Patras P.D.O.

Gentilini Robola of Kefalonia P.D.O.

Xinomavro, Krassato and Stavroto (1/3 each) grown in small vine parcels at an altitude that ranges between 350-500 meters above sea level, on the slopes of Mount Olympus. This is the varietal composition of Rapsani Reserve. Serious but seductive, with ripe mulberry fruit and fine tannins this warm red wine has great ageing potential evolving the depth of its character over time.

The Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot grapes for this wine are grown in vineyards situated in the eastern foothills of Mount Olympus. The high altitude (750m) creates rich, full-bodied wines. Classic Bordeauxstyle, balanced with aromas of cassis, black currant and spicy flavours.

The Slopes of Aigion (altitude: 600-900m), “one of the most interesting vinicultural regions in the world” (Stavroula Kourakou, honorary chairwoman of the O.I.V.) allow the Roditis grape to realize its full potential, making fine and zesty wines like this one. Wine’s delicious fruit and round flavour matches perfectly the Mediterranean cuisine.

Marianna Kosmetatos -daughter of the founder of Gentilini- and her husband, Petros Markantonatos, is the new generation that has taken over the ownership of the house, and bottled this vivacious, well-crafted Robola that reveals rich mineral and flower aromas, as well as a citrus-flavoured character. The vineyards climb the slopes of Mount Aenos to reach an altitude of 800 meters.

Hard to exaggerate the beauty of this mountaingrown wine, which is based on Agiorgitiko; Yiannis Tselepos has captured the essence of Nemea appellation zone. It’s a sturdy, tannic, ageworthy wine, with the density of flavours and complex structure that low-yielding mountain grapes give. Rich and appealing, it should develop over the next decade.

Chardonnay

2013

“True farmers’ knowledge of the land, wines with a modern touch…”

Malagousia 2013

Askos, 57 016 Thessaloniki tel. +30 23950 61626, fax +30 23950 61646 www.arvanitidis-winery.gr info@arvanitidis-winery.gr

WINE

A wine tasting safari in Greece | Moschofilero

Moschofilero Summer highlights

Summer. Time for rich white wines to enter the game. Shiny, aromatic, elegant and vivid. I am a shameless summer fan of the freshness, the finesse and the complex aromas of Moschofilero wines. Under the relentless summer light, they challenge us through their elegant bottles, using their irresistible charms.

Moschofilero is one of Greeceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most aromatic grapes. Fresh, with a rosy nose and an excellent acidity, it has conquered local palates and is now trying an international career. The best Moschofilero wines are produced in Mantinia, north-east of Tripoli. But Moschofilero is also grown in other parts of the Peloponnese and in some locations in Central Greece. This is a grape with redish skin, even though it produces white wines. To understand how this happens, one needs to be reminded that red wines take their colour from anthocyans, compounds found on the grape skin. Only when the must comes in contact with the skins, at the correct temperature and for the right period of time, does it receive the required colour. Therefore, if the skins are immediately removed, before touching the must (juice), the wine will be white. Another typical characteristic of Moschofilero wines, is their intense and easily recognizable aroma. With a few muscat notes, in their purest forms they remind us of a green apple, lime and rose, whereas more complex wines also give aromas of mint and lemon.

Finally, one should also bear in mind that Moschofilero, even when perfectly matured, has relatively low sugar content and high acidity, for such a southern wine. This complex character of Moschofilero grapes has led wine-makers to experiment by blending it with other varieties, such as Roditis and Chardonnay, and, quite naturally, to creating more than decent sparkling wines. Dining with a Moschofilero The crispy acidity and the intense aroma, make Moschofileros the perfect interlocutors of salads. They are a perfect match to seafood. Mussels, calamari and oysters, as well as fish with delicate aromas, are also good companions. They are a good match to white, fresh cheese. I would highly recommend a Moschofilero with zucchini salads, lobsterspaghetti, chicken with okra and veal with hollandaise sauce. Also note that these are wines insusceptible to aging, and are therefore better consumed when fresh.

TSELEPOSESTATE

An expression of exceptional quality from the Peloponnesian vineyard.

Amalia Brut Delightfully dry and savoury sparkling wine. Tropical fruit, apple, floral, mineral, citrus… and hints of happiness. A terrific holiday bubbly! Made with the same process as Champagne, Tselepos Estate uses Moschofilero grapes for this Greek interpretation. ………………………………………………………………………………………… Tselepos Estate 14th km Tripolis – Kastri road Arcadia, Greece T: + 30 2710 544440, F+ 30 2710 544460 www.tselepos.gr

WINE

A wine tasting safari in Greece | Moschofilero

Mantinia

Moschofilero

Salto Wild Yeast

Astala

Domaine Tselepos Mantinia P.D.O.

Semeli Mantinia P.D.O.

Boutari Mantinia P.D.O.

George Skouras Peloponnese P.G.I.

Domaine Spiropoulos Mantinia P.D.O.

No winery in Mantinia has explored Moschofilero grape more than Domaine Tselepos, and with the ‘13, they’ve produced another textbook Moschofilero: crisp, with ripe citrus trees fruit, rose notes and a racy character. One of my favourite styles of wine because it’s so refreshing it can be consumed on its own, or makes a terrific partner to a wide range of dishes (chicken, pasta, shellfish, seafood, salads).

This clean and refreshing wine, offering thrilling rosewater nose, fresh lime aromas and flavours, proves the perfect harmony between Moschofilero and Mantinia region. I’d serve this as an aperitif but could imagine it going very happily with white fish dishes.

In recognition of the enormous potential of this strongly aromatic variety, Boutari created one of the most famous brand names on the market. Lovely refreshing white with classic rose and zesty citrus flavours. Make this perhaps the perfect white wine to serve at a summer garden party.

Mavrofilero (Moschofilero’s most aromatic clone) grapes from a single vineyard. Grape must left to ferment in inox tanks. Oenologist and winemaker George Skouras, producer of this wonderfully elegant, crispy wine, is determined to discover every dimension of the beloved multifaceted variety.

Domaine Spiropoulos, well known for their commitment to environmental protection, present another Moschofilero 100% organically grown in the mountainous vineyards of the family. This single-vineyard Mantinia is a terrific refreshing white with classic herbal, grassy and zesty citrus flavours.

FOOD

Eat, shop and explore in Thessaloniki

Worth savouring during your stay

2 must-visit food markets A morning walk to the downtown markets, the Modiano and Kapani. Go closer to enjoy the orgy of colours in grocery stores. The glow of fresh fish. The fragrance of herbs. Thessaloniki used to be a city of many cultures. It used to welcome delicacies from every corner of the world. And that’s what you see, smell, and sneak into when tasting a bite here and there in the two famous markets. The Modiano, with small individual shops within the gallery, named after the rich merchant, is more “posh” and more expensive, while Kapani, just above Ermou Street, is clearly more of a layman’s market. 4 must deli Pantopoleio Thessalonikis (Thessaloniki Grocery Store) A must for every tasteful walk around the city, this is the kingdom of the gourmet traveller. Here you are sure to discover highly-reputed products from every corner of Greece, but also from all over the world: be it fresh and aged cheeses or traditional Greek halva and pastrami to homemade pasta and peculiar dressings or even salmon, ginger, chinese cabbage and fennel. The quest for gourmet products is complemented by a wide variety of salamis (from Mani synglino to prosciutto, ham and Hungarian salami) and cured fish. (12, Komninon St, tel. +30 2310 244684)

Ergon Memories from their grandfather’s grocery come alive in the modern grocery created by the brothers Thomas and George Douzis. The store’s shelves host a delicious collection of local produce, including the ERGON collection of traditional Greek products. These culinary treasures are showcased by popular chef Dimitris Skarmoutsos to put together a menu of tasty appetizers (mezedes) served in the taverna, right next door. (3-5, Kouskoura St, tel. +30 2310 284224)

Daily Deli Right in the middle of Zefxidos street, explore the world of cheese: 52 cheeses from all parts of Greece and the world, distant and nearby alike, famous or totally unknown, are waiting for you to try them. In the same store explore your charcuterie, a selection of wild mushrooms, a treasure of forgotten traditional dishes, jars filled with every kind of delicacies and meticulously selected spirits. Anything you can imagine, that will expand your culinary horizons are in these shelves! (4, Zefxidos St., tel + 30 2310 286869) Mia Feta The new venture of the Kourella family, known until now for their organic cheese, is also a café, a bar, a grocery and a dairy shop. Here, you can go shopping while -degus-tasting dishes with feta as you have never tried it before: feta as foam, feta with truffle, feta in panna cotta, feta with olives/peppers and many other versions. Also try the nettle pie with “zea” flour. (14, Pavlou Mela St., tel + 30 2310 221120) 5 sweet (chocolate) boutiques Hatzifotiou For lighter and yet rich chocolate cigarillos, all roads lead to Hatzifotiou confectioneries. Made with love and care by the best chocolate specialists in this city, they are truly mesmerizing because, as co-owner George Hatzifotiou says, “they are reminiscent of our childhood memories”. (www.hatzifotiou.gr)

Terkenlis One of the traditional patisseries of Thessaloniki, famous for their brioche, or “tsoureki”. Sufficiently sweet and chewy, it is mainly known for the fragrance, which will greet every passerby on the corner of Aristotle square and Tsimiski Street. Either plain-vanilla

A k a d imia restaurant

flavoured or stuffed (the best one being the chestnut filling topped with white chocolate) the Terkenlis tsoureki is a classic souvenir of the city. (www.terkenlis.gr) Elenidis The love of the locals for these sweets is only compared with their compulsion to Halkidiki: “no other like Elenidis triangles!”. Nowadays, you can find sweets in this format all over Greece. But the taste of the syrupy, crispy puff pastry combined with the velvety cream nestled inside, in other words the sweet invented by Mr. George Elenidis in 1960, can only be found in one of their three stores. (www.elenidis.com) Blé A true gem to the city’s crown, Blé, housed in a neoclassical building on the pedestrian Agia Sophia, is not only a “monument to good bread” but also a high-quality patisserie. Best of the best, the Cretan lychnarakia, that you can now taste with ganache topping or Belgian chocolate flakes. (www.ble.com.gr) Sugarela In this sublime french-style patisserie, their chocolate cake is worshiped fanatically, thanks to its high culinary standard: a chocolate mousse with bitter chocolate topping will caress your palate with its velvety texture and sweet taste. (www.sugarela.gr)

In the heart of Thessaloniki centre, Akadimia restaurant invites you to experience its tastefull Mediterranean cuisine. Akadimia is a very charming, cosy restaurant at atmospheric Ag. Mina Street. The smart and cool decor captures your eyes, the music caresses your ears and the tasteful dishes your palate. Entering the summer mood, the menu takes full advantage of fresh vegetables and herbs to produce a repertoire with a classical base that has many resonances of modern cooking. A variety of starters, a good range of fresh fish, traditional seafood and meat dishes are prepared in a variety of styles. The wine list is perfectly suited to style of the restaurant. Least but not less, Akadimia is particularly value-for-money restaurant.

3, Agiou Mina St. Thessaloniki Tel. + 30 2310 521803 fb. akadimiaestiatorio tripadvisor: akadimia

WINE

Wine bars in Athens | Niki Mitarea

Wine bars in Athens by Niki Mitarea

Niki Mitarea ate and wine tasted her way through Athens neighbourhoods. Here, the new-ish wine spots she is most excited about.

Scala Vinoteca

The first wine bar in Athens could only be a model for those that followed. The venue is beautiful, quite modern, and the wine cellar hosts a large number of labels served in a glass by both Greek and foreign producers, while the kitchen bears the signature of famous Greek chef Christophoros Peskias with delicious hot and cold appetizers. (50, Sina St., tel. +30 210 3610041) Fabrica di Vino

Housed in an 1880 building, with a cool, industrial atmosphere and a large bar, Fabrica is the ideal place for a glass of wine after work. The collection of Greek labels exceeds that of foreign ones. Appetizers include tapas and local cheeses and sausages. (3, Emmanuel Benaki St., Omonia, tel. +30 210 3214148)

from wines, malt whiskeys, cognacs, calvados, armagnacs, sherries, ports, vintage champagnes, and all these perfectly combined with a plateau of selected cheeses and sausages. (44A, Voulis St., Syntagma, tel +30 210 3229374) Heteroclito

An excellent addition to the company of wine bars of downtown Athens. The small Heteroclito, standing at a corner with its beautiful glass windows, the sweet lighting and excellent music, is the creation of three people who love wine, good life and beautiful things. A selection of 17 different labels is also served in a glass, including sparkling, white, rosé, red and dessert wines, emphasising on local and rare varieties. Excellent, well-chosen plateaus with Greek cheeses and meats, constantly refreshed. (2, Fokionos & 30, Petrakis St., tel. + 30 210 3239406)

Wine Point

Just a few meters from the new Acropolis Museum, the Point is ideal for “lazy” evenings with friends. It offers some of the best Greek labels and a remarkable variety of beers (including Greek beers). Delicious varieties of cheese and sausages add an interesting twist to the menu. If, indeed, you like a label that much, you can buy it on the spot. The Point frequently hosts wine-tasting meetings and presentations. (Ath. Diakou & 2, Porinou St., Plaka/Acropolis, tel. +30 210 9227050) Oinoscent

A huge selection of Greek and foreign wine labels, constantly renewed by a small, cute wine bar and cellar. The list of drinks includes, apart

Octana

Octana is a wine bar you always want to return to. Hospitable, warm and cosy. You feel the same comfort on a business light lunch or at the company of friends for wine tasting. Sommelier Maria Dimou offers a very original wine list setup. The menu includes many interesting dishes, some of which showcase traditional Greek ingredients. Of course, the dishes are accompanied by fabulous wine suggestions. The cellar is always full of beautiful wine ideas. (9, Varvaca Sq., Pagkrati, tel. + 30 210 7014630)

WINE ART ESTATE

The people of Wine Art Estate share an enduring passion for the production of quality wines. A passion, that has found its ultimate expression in the development of the Estateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vineyards and winery at Mikrochori, Drama. A passion for perfection that has led to the production of much appreciated wines.

Wine Art Estate Mikrochori, 66100 Drama, Greece T: +30 25210 83626, www.wineart.gr

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Gourmet trotting in 10 Greek islands

Gourmet trotting in 10 Greek islands Culinary delights reviewed by: Denny Kallivoka, Evi Kallini, Maria Netsika, Kostis Zafirakis

Lesvos Roman gourmand Luculus must have known better when he decided to build his mansion in the middle of Mytilene, adding a “divari”, i.e. a fishery, right next to it. According to many oceanographers, the sea surrounding Lesvos is the ideal environment for the reproduction and survival of sprat (sardines). The port of Kalloni, with its sardines and scallops, is not the only culinary playground in the island. At Skala, in Polihnitos, the fish market is an almost cinematic experience. The “Malteser” goats and black-eyed sheep – locals call them “karagioz” – hold the secret to the island’s dairy supremacy. Lesvos is the birthplace of three P.D.O. cheese: Eressos kasseri, Mytilene ladotyri (cheese made with olive oil) and Mytilene feta. The legendary ouzo from Plomari is another well-known trademark of the island. Once in Plomari, ouzo-travellers learn the history of the local flavour in the unique Ouzo Museum. It goes without saying that the island is famous for the variety of ouzo starters, or meze, ranging from “sfouggato” to Gözleme from Gera. The local cuisine seems impossible to fully uncover: sun-dried vegetables and fish, called “liokafta” or sun-burned, with sardines and Greek coffee baked on a thin layer of finely ground olive pit, “tseres”, a beverage made with sun-dried morellos, sugar, cinnamon sticks, clove, orange or tangerine peels, and ouzo or cognac. As for the olive oil, Lesvos is still the undisputed queen with more than 11 million olive trees and an annual production of more than 20.000 tons of olive oil. Lemnos Look out for the incredible “kalathaki”. This is a delicious cheese (made with sheep milk or a mix of sheep and goat milk) in the shape of a small wheel and white flesh, aged in small baskets made with wicker twigs. You should also try “melichloro” and the local Lemnos feta. Thyme honey is also a must.

Santorini Despite the lack of water, the Santorini cuisine is one of the most famous in Greece. If you are a gourmand traveller, you will surely go home with “hloro tiri” (fresh cheese), pickled caper leaves, dry caper leaves, Vinsanto vinegar, the delicious mini-tomatoes to make your own tomato-burgers or to dry under the sun, the legendary Santorini fava (split peas) and the mouth-watering and unique white eggplant. Certainly, you will discuss recipes with the locals and the very creative chefs of the island’s many high-level restaurants. Ancient Santorinians were the first to discover the therapeutic properties of saffron, the expensive flower growing nowadays in the Kozani heights. Paros The locals take pride in their goat cheese, the soft xynomyzithra and the local wheel-shaped ladotyri prepared with coarse sea salt, the “amanetes” (mushrooms from the island’s high hills), their bitter herbs, their aromatic fennel and the fresh caper. Fishermen in Paros have a strong taste for gurnards and club mackerel, either sun-dried or baked on charcoal, also called “murelo”. Syros Next to the local popular cuisine, this island, for a short period also the capital of Greece, has nourished the development of a more refined cooking, thanks to influences from the Franks. One must absolutely taste local sausages, the “luzza” (pork fillet in coarse salt), fried fish with tomato and onion, the local “San Mihali” cheese and the island’s sweets (lukumi, almond marzipans and local mastic).

Gourmet trotting in 10 Greek islands

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Corfu The delicious “kumquat” of course -what else! You can take home that superb, bitter-sweet taste of the little citrus fruits in the form of preserved fruit or sweet liqueur. Another Corfiot delicacy that is also worthy of your attention is “nouboulo” -paper-thin slices of smoked pork. And while you are enjoying a warm afternoon on the Spianada, try the island “tsitsibyra” -a distinctive, spicy lemonade with ginger, made here as far back as the reign of King Othon. Kefalonia High up in the hills the island air is rich with the fragrance of oregano and savoury, but down in the squares, and especially when you are near a patisserie, there is a ubiquitous scent of roasted almonds. This is the land of the “mandola”, almonds roasted with sugar and then dyed the colour of cherries. And next to it in the shop window you are sure to see the “komfeto”, the local sweet made of quince paste, holding whole almonds in its mastic-scented embrace. And of course, don’t leave the island without trying Robola, the famous local wine.

Zakynthos One invariable feature of all romantic Greek comedies filmed in Zante was always the “mandolato”, which came to be known as the sweet of lovers. It can be found everywhere on the island, as can pasteli, the other tempting sweet. But there are more temptations not to be resisted here, including the sweet Verdea wine, the second Greek wine after Retsina to be officially granted Traditional Appellation status. Lefkada If you are travelling to Lefkada, visit the village of Englouvi and buy some of the delicious local lentils. When winter returns, get out a saucepan and prepare a dish of lentil soup to remind you of the island. Kythera Must-buys on Kythera include “fatourada” (tsipouro with cinnamon and cloves), Kythera honey, crunchy, crisp ladopaximada (rusks with oil), and garlands of “sempreviva”, a little yellow flower which grows on the steep cliffs around the coast and has become something of an island trademark.

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JOIN THE INTENSE AND LENGTHY BUBBLY EXPERIENCE OF BLINK SPARKLING WINE! Grape Variety: Muscat of Alexandria (Zibibbo) 100% Terroir: Lemnos Island 90 points from Wine and Spirits and “Best Buy” recommendation (August 2013 issue) Golden Pentaward Medal in packaging design (2011)

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Best gathering places | Thessaloniki

Wine Plus guide

Culinary delights reviewed by: Denny Kallivoka, Evi Kallini, Niki Mitarea, Maria Netsika

Best gathering places Thessaloniki: a town circuit

From fresh fish and home-cooking to sushi and gourmet dishes, we have conducted a review of what’s hot this summer. We present you Wine Plus hot list of the-gastronomic-”musts”-while-travelling.

City centre Akadimia Very charming, cosy restaurant at atmospheric Ag. Mina Street. Entering the summer mood, the menu takes full advantage of fresh vegetables and herbs to produce a Mediterranean and Greek cuisines’ repertoire with a classical base that has many resonances of modern cooking. (3, Agiou Mina St., tel. + 30 2310 521803) Coq au zen Delightful bistro, a gastronomic oasis amidst the bustle of the Valaoritou neighbourhood, offering a small but carefully fashioned menu. (37, Valaoritou St., Thessaloniki, tel. +30 2310 520119) Be An American diner-style restaurant. Pleasant casual ambiance, excellent music and quality cuisine at the restaurant of the Excelsior Hotel. The focus is mainly on street food (fish & chips, burgers, falafel) and traditional American dishes (mac & cheese) at reasonable prices. (10, Komninon St. & 23 Mitropoleos St., tel. +30 2310 021020) Frutti di Mare The restaurant has tables out on the pavement all year round, with a view of the Bazaar Hamam. Enjoy your wine with delicious seafood and meat mezedes. (20, Komninon St., tel. +30 2310 239100) Chan Extra-stylish Pan Asian restaurant at design hotel The Met (designed by famous architect Andy Martin). The Asian-inspired menu is created by British food critique and entrepreneur Oliver Peyton. During summer they serve at Sky bar-restaurant on the 7th floor, with the breathtaking view of Thessaloniki. (The Met Hotel, 48, 26th October Str., tel. 2310 017000) Da Mimmo New Italian tratoria in Mylos entertainment complex. Sample one of the beautifully prepared salads or pizzas, and relax with a glass of wine. (56, An. Georgiou St., tel. +30 2314 004441) Ta Nisia [The islands] Mediterranean cuisine, with the focus mainly on fish; a rich menu of more than 150 different types of seafood dish, including starters, salads, fish mezedes and main courses. (13, Proxenou Koromila St., tel. +30 2310 285991)

Garcon Brasserie Café-bar-restaurant with a trendy environment and the best balcony on the old waterfront. The cuisine follows current trends. (Nikis Av. & 2, Ag. Sofias St., tel. +30 2310 253033) 7thalasses [7 seas] The post-modern fish taverna par excellence! You will imagine you are on Mykonos! Friendly staff, good atmosphere, fresh fish, shellfish, seafood and well-informed wine list. (10, Kalapothaki St., tel. +30 2310 233173) Clochard Stylish dining in an atmospheric setting. Classic venue for lovers of good food. Award-winning Greek cuisine with some beautifully prepared international dishes. (4, Proxenou Koromila St., tel. +30 2310 239805) Restaurant Lounge Bar Β The restaurant is located inside the Museum of Byzantine Culture. With its beautifully designed atrium, full of greenery, it offers a breath of fresh air in summer months and a superb Mediterranean menu. (2 C’, Septemvriou St., tel. +30 2310 869695) Zythos - Doré Well-known haunt of artists and intellectuals. The courtyard offers refreshing shade and a view of the White Tower, while the cuisine prepares a range of Mediterranean flavours, same with Zythos in Ladadika. (7, Tsiroyianni St., tel. +30 2310 279010) Old City Yenti Ouzeri with rembetiko music, in the shadow of the old Yenti Koule prison and castle. Serves a wide range of meat and seafood dishes. (13, Ioannou Papareska St., Yedi Kule, tel. +30 2310 246495) Moni Lazariston Fred & Ginger The restaurant of the Lazaristes Hotel, which has won over bon viveurs with its beautiful design, cosmopolitan atmosphere and gourmet cuisine! (Les Lazaristes, 16, Kolokotroni St., Stavroupoli, tel. +30 2310 647444)

Best gathering places | Halkidiki

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Best gathering places Halkidiki Kalamaria – Aretsou - Nea Krini Anassa A gastronomic restaurant with refined art de la table and Mediterranean cuisine. Stylish dining from chef Nikos Tsoumas. (26 Sofouli St., tel. +30 2311 821360). During summer you’ll find them in Halkidiki. (Anassa by the sea, Fourka, tel. 23740 43026) Zak This east-side hotspot exudes the atmosphere of a European bistrot. Serving innovative cocktails it featured a menu packed with Mediterranean ideas, pizza, refreshing salads and pasta, fine wine list and the a superb sea view! (35, N.Plastira St. Kalamaria, tel. +30 2310 438921) To koutouki tou kavouri [The crab’s shell] Ouzeri and fish taverna, with superb fresh fish, seafood and delicious mezedes. Every aspect of the venue contributes to a warm and friendly ambiance. (71, M. Kallidou St. & Xifilinon St., tel. +30 2310 419051) Mavri Thalassa [Black Sea] Very popular fish taverna, Mavri Thalassa has moved along the lines of the classic tavernas in Nea Krini. Menu features fresh fish, shellfish and other seafood dishes. (3, N. Plastira St., Kalamaria, tel. +30 2310 932542) Yialos Classic fish and mezedes taverna, enjoying superb location on the waterfront at Kalamaria. Ouzo or wine accompanied by delicious mezedes and a unique view of the sea. (Ν. Plastira St., Mikro Emvolo, Kalamaria, tel. +30 2310 442121) Hamodrakas Well-known fish taverna, founded in 1926. Specializing in seafood, the business has been handed down from father to son in the Gofas family. (13, Μ. Gagyli St., Aretsou waterfront, tel. +30 2310 447943) Airport Alfredo’s Garden Open air restaurant in the lush gardens of the Regency Casino. The summer location of Alfredo’s, one of the best restaurants in Thessaloniki. Executive chef Apostolos Altanis features modern Mediterranean and Greek cuisine. A menu of creatively enhanced dishes is served in an idyllic setting with an orchestra to entertain diners. Extensive wine list. (12th kilometre on Thessaloniki-airport road, tel. +30 2310 491199)

Marina Below the bridge and next to the boat-yard in the little harbour of Potidea you will find the simple luxury of Marina, and, with its nautical décor you’ll be forgiven for thinking that you are aboard a yacht. (Potidea, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23730 41570) Sani Resort Apart from its fabulous natural backdrop and cosmopolitan aura, this complex in Cassandra is also renowned for its gastronomic offerings. Choices from the very Greek-gourmet Ntomata run by chef Chrysanthos Karamolengos and the cosmopolitan Asian Sea you up to the ouzeri Psarogiannos. (Sani, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23740 99400) Trizoni A beautiful yard and high-quality cuisine at this stylish fish restaurant. Creativity and tradition blended in a range of starters, salads, fish mezedes and main courses. (Kriopigi, Cassandra, Halikidiki, tel. +30 23740 51945) Porto Valitsa Spectacular view of the endless blue sea, Mediterranean cuisine and a personal approach at the restaurant of the resort. (Paliouri, Cassandra, Halikidiki, tel. +30 23740 92007) Squirrel The gastronomic restaurant at the luxurious Danai Beach Resort. Set in an idyllic environment with only 6 tables with the stars up above and the waves at your feet, you’ll relish the imaginative creations of chef Erve Pronzato. A sophisticated cuisine. (Metamorfosi, Saithonia, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23750 22310)

Amvrosia Sunny, spacious, comfortably casual, this is the restaurant of the Hyatt Regency Hotel. You will sample the cuisine of Kosta Arambatzis, basically Greek with some exceptions, mainly characterized by good taste. (Hyatt Regency Thessaloniki, 13th kilometre on Thessaloniki-airport road, tel. +30 2310 401234)

Eagles Palace The ultra classy hotel in Ouranopolis has consistently invested in gastronomy and wine. This you can confirm by dining at the gastronomic restaurant Kamares, in the fish taverna Almyra, which serves you right where the waves splash and in the verdant Vinum garden. (Ouranopolis, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23770 31101-4)

Ristorante Da Vinci Tastefully designed restaurant at the Nikopolis Hotel, with a menu featuring sophisticated Italian cuisine. The gastronomic quality one would expect from one of the Leading Hotels of the World. (Nikopolis Hotel, 16-18, Asklipiou St., Pylaia, tel. +30 2310 401000)

Marigoula Tiny dinning room, beautiful yard and dishes based on Greek gastronomic traditions enhanced by the resourceful talents of energetic owner. Wide variety of excellent Greek wines. (Poligiros, Halkidiki, tel. +30 23710 23171)

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Best gathering places | Athens

Best gathering places Athens: a tasteful guide to the cosmopolis

Syntagma Square - Kolonaki - Ethnikos Kypos GB Roof Garden restaurant Breathtaking view of Acropolis and Lycabettus, elegant atmosphere, opulent setting, superb service -all at Athens’ most chic hotel. A perfect choice, with new Mediterranean cuisine from talented chef Astetios Koustoudis. (Hotel Grande Bretagne, Syntagma Square, tel. +30 210 3330000) Tudor Hall restaurant Ultra chic restaurant on the 7th floor of King George Hotel. The passionate Executive Chef Sotiris Evangelou, whose name is synonymous with quality and excellent taste, offers authentic Greek seasonal dishes with a modern twist. (Hotel King George, Syntagma Square, tel. +30 210 3222210) Cibus Set in the historic grounds of the Zappeion, with a magical view of the Acropolis and delicious Italian cuisine, Cibus is a veritable oasis in the heart of the city. (Zappeion Gardens, tel. +30 210 3369369) Trapezaria The cuisine of chef and proprietor Dimitris Panagiotopoulos draws on his extensive research into Greek cooking. On the tiny restaurant’s beautiful hall you can sample well know Greek recipes or “new-classic” plates while enjoying a fine wine from the excellent cellear. (1, Theodorou Negri, Makriyanni, tel. 210 9213500) Psyrri - Gazi Hytra One of the best restaurants in Athens. A menu of Mediterranean dishes, with a pronounced Greek influence. Chef – Nikos Karathanos (7, Navarchou Apostoli St., Psyrri, tel. +30 2103316767) Pangrati Spondi Gourmet & formal. Greece’s top restaurant presents contemporary

French cuisine with dazzling artistry (two stars Michelin restaurant). Beautifully cool courtyard. The wine list features near 1.300 labels. (6, Pyrronos St., tel. +30 210 7520658, +30 210 7564021) Cucina Povera Sommelier Yannis Kaimenakis and chef Manos Zournatzis present freshly cooked dishes, with seasonal ingredients backed by an intriguing wine list with 300 different labels. All at poor man’s prices! (13, Evforionos St., Kallimarmaro, tel. +30 210 7566008) Vasilissis Sofias Milos restaurant The gourmet restaurant of the Hilton Hotel. Excellent fish cuisine and rare Greek deli. (Hotel Hilton, 46, Vas. Sofias Ave., te.: +30 210 7244400) Galaxy Bar The last word in cosmopolitan venues, recognized and awarded as one of the world’s best sky bars. Breathtaking view of the city, cocktails, finger food and BBQ for the seriously hungry. (Hotel Hilton, 46, Vas. Sofias Ave., tel. +30 210 7281000) Alatsi Very popular restaurant with high level traditional Cretan cuisine. (13, Vrassida St., (opposite the Hilton), tel: +30 210 +30 210 72 10 501) Fuga The Athens Concert Hall’s own restaurant, looking out across the city. Modern Mediterranean cuisine presented by chef Pantaleo de Pinto, supervised by the great Andrea Berton. (Athens Concert Hall, Vas. Sofias Ave. & 1 Kokkali St., tel. +30 210 7242979) Ambelokipi Balthazar Neo-classical architecture, divine setting and beautiful courtyard. Modern cuisine. (D. Soutsou & 27 Tsocha St., Ampelokipoi, tel. +30 210 6412300)

Maroussi - Kifissia Whispers of Wine Tasty Italian and Mediterannean recipes with a Greek influence combined with an extensive, well-informed wine list. A cosy, freindly wine restauran. (48, Ag. Konstantinou, Maroussi, tel. +30 210 6179051) P Box A New York-style deli restaurant. Exuberant chef Christophoros Peskias runs an open kitchen, working his magic among his pots and pans in full view of the diners. The restaurant is on the small side, with one wall covered in shelves stocked with all sorts of delicacies for sale. (11, Levidou St., Kifisia, tel. +30 210 8088818) Yevseis me onomasia proelefsis [Tastes with an Appellation of Origin] A fine old house in Kifisia, elegantly decorated and with a friendly atmosphere, serving sophisticated Greek cuisine lovingly prepared by chef Nena Ismyrnoglou. (317, Kifisias Ave, tel. +30 210 8001402) Tilemachos Traditional Greek tavern that has developed into a warm, modern grill house. Tasty appetizers, properly cooked meat, great wine list. (19, Fragkopoulou St., Kato Kifisia, tel. +30 210 8077468) Piazza Mela Piazza Mela -the minimalist Italian restaurant in the Mela Shopping Mall. Sample one of the beautifully prepared salads or risottos, and relax with a glass of wine. (238, Kifisias Ave., tel. +30 210 6236596) Neo Faliro - Alimos Prasinos Lofos [Green Hill] Tried and tested Cretan delicacies, served in a tranquil setting surrounded by pine trees -one of the city’s favourite dinner venues. (89, Alimou Ave., Osios Lavrentios, Alimos, tel. +30 210 9913811) Piraeus Seaside Varoulko A well-known and very popular eating place in Athens. Original and multi-award-winning (Michelin included) fish recipes by Lefteris Lazarou, combining personality and superb technique. (52, Akti Koumoundourou, tel. +30 2105228400) Papaioannou Possibly the best fish taverna in Athens, a veritable education in the proper preparation of fish and the importance of seeking out the very best raw ingredients. (5, Philippou St., Mikrolimano, Piraeus, tel. +30 210 4225059) Vasilainas In the kitchen of this historic restaurant, chef Manolis Aslanoglou prepares superb and highly inventive dishes, using authentic ingredients of the finest quality. (72, Aitolikou St., tel. +30 210 4612457)

MYLOPOTAMOS – LEFKOS

(Dry White Wine) Holly Cell of Saint Efstathios - Mylopotamos Type/Category: White, dry/P.G.I. Mount Athos Origin: Privately-owned biological vineyard, at Mylopotamos, Mount Athos – Chalkidiki Grape varieties: Assyrtiko, Muscat of Alexandria Winemaker notes: On the nose it is intensely aromatic, with complex white flower and apple aromas. On the palate it is refreshing, with an elegant character and a lingering, pleasant acidity. Excellent pair to salads, seafood, meat in white sauce, cheeses and fruits, it can also be enjoyed alone, as a refreshing aperitif. Mylopotamos 14, Byzantiou St. 54628 Thessaloniki tel. + 30 2310 522211 www.mywines.gr | e-mail: info@mywines.gr

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Best gathering places | Greek islands

Best Gathering places: Greek islands

Samothraki Sotiros Goat is served in greaseproof paper at this taverna which is to be found in the gully next to the small church. The tables are laid under the plane and fig trees. You can watch the cook in the yard peel the potatoes and fry them in large pans over the wood fire. (tel. +30 25510 41500) Lesvos Vafios This is a taverna and a gastronomic staging post. Surrounded by vegetation, the cobbled yard with its wooden pergolas is the perfect place to savour local recipes and enjoy the view of the castle of Molyvos. Our tips: marvellous cheese pies (gkiouzlemedakia), exohiko, lamb with chickpeas and kiskiek (traditional dish with lamb, cracked wheat and cumin). (Vafios, Lesvos, tel. +30 2253071752) Anemoessa The tranquil little harbour of Skala Sikamnia, with its fishing boats and the small church of the Panagia Gorgona nestled above the rock, is reminiscent of a bygone age. Your joy will be complemented by the food in the Anemoessa fish taverna. (Skala Sikamnia, Lesvos, tel. +30 22530 55360) Patmos Vegghera Patmian chef, Georgios Gryllis has brought with him a wealth of experience from Athens to create on Patmos a gastronomic restaurant with refined art de la table and Mediterranean cuisine. (Skala, Nea Marina, Patmos, tel. +30 22470 32988) Andros Chez Zozef This place is like a doll’s house. Chandeliers in an art deco dining room with a buffet that looks like a grocery shop. Modernized local cuisine using the island’s produce. You must absolutely try the frutalia, the rooster pasta, the limpet pilaf, the local pie with wild greens, the kid with lemon and olive oil sauce and the Andros apple pie! (Pitrofos, 6km before Andros Hora, tel. +3- 22820 5105)

Milos Medusa In a small fishing village of this wonderful island, you will taste exquisitely cooked dishes. Grilled octopus and sardines, small fish and mylos pies. The swordfish is masterfully roasted and served with the perfect lemonmustard sauce. Ask for the mushrooms stuffed with cheese and peppers. The chips and the Greek salad with mizithra cheese are reason enough for you to come here. You can reserve your table to enjoy the full moon rising behind the white rocks in Mandrakia. (Mandrakia, Milos, tel. +30 22870 23670) Hivadolimni If you find yourself on the beach at Hivadolimni, on Milos, look in one of the alleys for the ouzeri of the same name. Here you’ll find superlative seafood as well as a salubrious version of the Cretan dakos: small pieces of roasted bread served with feta, tomato, aubergine and garlic! Paros Barbarossa At this exquisite island location in the small harbour of Naoussa you will find the most famous of all fish tavernas, run by Eftyhis. With its genuinely local fish, this is one very good reason to spend a night on Paros. Not to be missed. (Naoussa, Paros, tel. +30 22840 51391) Ios Polydoros Polydoros is a seafront taverna on the beach at Koumbara offering fare at reasonable prices. With its friendly environment, relaxed mood and superb home cooking -unbelievable pastichio- (beware, they often run out in the evening) as well as fresh fish. Mr Polydoros himself has the appearance of a dreamy poet. (Koumbara seafront, Ios, tel. +30 22860 91132) Mykonos Matsuhisa at Belvedere Far superior to Nobu of London (its sister restaurant), this one on Mykonos has attained a very high standard. Take a sip of the apple martini and try the Black Cod with sweet miso, Robert de Niro’s favourite dish. (Hora, Mykonos, tel. +30 22890 25122)

Best gathering places | Greek islands

FOOD

Santorini Selini This celebrated restaurant moved to a new location at Pyrgos. Your host is Georgios Hatziyannakis, one of the founding members of Slow Food in Greece, the creative force together with the chef, Nikos Boukis. All time classics include the small pitas with anthotyro and dill, spinach with pine cone seeds and raisins, cherry tomatoes with capers and fresh cheese. (Pyrgos, Santorini, tel. +30 22860 22249) Koukoumavlos Nikos Pouliasis is the only person on Santorini who has dared to make crab soup with a sauce of white chocolate, lime and ginger, producing something very interesting as a result. The service is second to none as are the premises: the classic cave in the caldera with its beautiful décor and Mr Pouliasis’s discerning choice of opera music which you are sure to like. (Fira, Santorini, tel. +30 22860 23807) 1800 Absolutely romantic atmosphere with progressive, refined Mediterranean specialties. (Oia, Santorini, tel. +30 22860 71485) Ammoudi The quintessential fish taverna, literally sitting above the waves. Choose a little scorpion fish and take a drink at Dimitris’s, while he’ll cook it for you over charcoal in aluminium foil with garlic, salt and pepper. Sunset is the best time to enjoy this. (Ammoudi, Oia, Santorini, tel. +30 22860 71606) Kos Barbouni Tastefully designed seafood restaurant enjoying superb location on the waterfront at Kos. Menu features classic and sophisticated sea cuisine. In the small delicatessen you can find a lot of local products they source all around Greece and especially the Aegean islands. (26, G. Averoff St., Kos, tel. +30 22420 20170) Rhodes Mavrikos Located in beautiful Lindos, in a courtyard. Mavrikos offers one of the best fish-based cuisines in Greece. Their classic hors d’oeuvres include

caper leaves ragout and puréed split peas with a sweet homemade sun-dried tomato sauce. The “black dish”, made from black giant beans with carob honey and homemade pork jerky is also delicious, as are the marinated garfish kebab and the baked skate with laurel leaves. (Lindos square, Rhodes, tel. +30 22440 31232) Crete Avli Avli serves traditional recipes with a modern twist in Rethimnon, in a 17th century Venetian palace, hidden in a stone courtyard full of Cretan plants and herbs, sculptures and antiques. The wine list is a pleasant surprise, with more than 400 Greek wines. (Xanthoudidou 22 & Rodamanthios, Rethimna, Crete, tel.+30 28310 26213) Mylos tou Kerata Built adjacent to a watermill, it resembles more a garden in bloom with its impressive flower displays and rose petals scattered on the tables. The menu and the wine cellar also impress. (Platanias, Hania, Crete, tel. +30 28210 68578) Corfu Etrusco Hector Botrini, improving year by year, expresses in an original way the contemporary gastronomic revolution through his techna e contrasti, a menu with dishes which combine modernistic techniques and fabulous taste. (Kato Korakiana, Corfu, tel. +30 26610 93342) Kefalonia Tassia Famous fish tavern in the heart of the beautiful Fiskardo’s harbor, with a clientele of celebrities. Serves seasonal stews, fish and seafood. Service quick and helpful, nice wine list. (Fiskardo, Kefalonia, tel. +30 26740 41205) Kyani Akti In its beautiful wooden platform -with the water under your feet- you can taste delicious “petrosolines” (rasor clamps), scallops and fresh fish, pork with apple sauce, coq au vin and handmade potatoes. (I. Metaxa St., Argostoli, Kefalonia, tel. +30 26710 96680)

T R AV E L

Summer in Greece

Summer in Greece La vie est une plage!

We found ourselves on our favourite beaches. We swam. Filled with sand the pages of our book, made a pillow out of it and dreamed. Sometimes the reality belies dreams, but the summer is considered the most carefree, the most relaxed season of the year. In the summertime the “living is easy”, according to Gershwin. Even if it is a fantasy, it is probably the best we can realize. Have a great summer! Halkidiki The Koursaros beach near Paliouri is clean, endless, dreamy. Elia beach is shining under the June light. The view of Trani Ammouda, slowly revealing itself. The shallow bays of Vourvourou, with their fragrant pine and seaweed scents. The Kriaritsi and Kalamitsi beaches, with their crystalclear, deep and cold waters. The piece of land connecting the beach with the sea in Tristinika. Halkidiki is an entire continent of summer pleasures! Ganema, Serifos This island of the Cyclades is renowned for its lacy, leeward beaches. One such beach is Ganema on the south side, right after the Koutalas cove. The fine sand, the trees and the crystal clear waters create the ideal backdrop for alternative travellers. Once the sun sets, sip your coffee in the Town Hall Square in Hora of Serifos, which is perched like an eagle’s nest, on the highest point of the island. Ai Sostis, Mykonos Away from the hubbub and hordes of lifestyle worshipers, the beach of Ai Sosti offers the perfect retreat for those who cherish isolation: the Aegean deep blue combined with hot, fine sand. Umbrellas and sun beds are “exiled” from the scenery, the only decoration of the beach being the colourful paréos of bathers! Many swim naked, but no one will even glimpse if you do not part with your swimsuit. After the bath, satisfy your hunger in the traditional taverna Kiki, literally “hanging” over the beach.

Vatses, Astypalea A beach of primitive beauty, with thick, white pebbles and clear blue waters. The tranquillity found here will reimburse you for the 20 minutes drive in the rugged dirt path. Do not even think of getting your car, unless it is a 4X4. Motorbikes are an excellent solution. Make sure you have water and some fruit with you, if you want to stay up late in the afternoon. Falasarna, Crete Never mind the Caribbean! The warm, turquoise waters of Falasarna, with its endless sandy beach, are ideal for diving all day, as there is a beach bar for coffee, cocktails and delicious salads. By sunset, look for the traditional taverna Panorama -about 50 meters from the beach- and taste local delicacies such as dako [dry bread topped with chopped tomatos and crumbled feta cheese], snails and chortopitakia [pies with greens], overlooking a dreamy sunset. Egkremni, Lefkada Two kilometres of turquoise, crystal clear waters, form part of a majestic, green landscape. I hope you like the adventure, as you will need to go down 350 stairs to dive in the dream! For the “faint-hearted”, there are always boats departing from Nidri and Vassiliki.

www.eaglespalace.gr

A tradition in authentic

HELLENIC HOSPITALITY At Eagles Palace, we do not just promise you “a memorable escape” or “a unique experience”. We make it our mission to create

your most unforgettable memories, through the warmth of authentic Hellenic hospitality.

Reservations: +30 23770 31070 Ouranoupolis, Halkidiki, GR – 63075 T: +30 23770 31101-4, 31047-8 E: info@eaglespalace.gr GNTO / R.T.E.: 0938Κ015Α0267900