WOW magazine issue 4 2015

e azin mag Issue four 2015

Iceland 2.0

Enter the Highlands!

y o u r f r e e c o p y -ta k e m e w i t h y o u

15-1627 - HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA

Make sure you give yourself time to visit and explore. Share the experience #wheninKEF because good times are to be shared.

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WOW Power to the people

The airport has been going through radical renovations. We can now offer more space, better facilities, diverse restaurants and more products at better prices. Arrive early and start your journey with us.

Enjoy your stay at KEF airport

Issue four 3

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Welcome,

hotel geysir 4

WOW Power to the people

WELC OME TO GEYSIR the geysir ceNter is directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great geysir aNd strokkur e

I

geysir glima bistro Coffee house With freshly ground Coffee sWeet iCe Creams & Cakes traditional iCelandiC meat soup fish soup & vegetarian soup loCal food museum of hot springs, volCano and iCelandiC glima

The geysir cenTer haukadalur www.geysircenter.com / www.geysirglima.com / tel: +354 480 6800 / geysir@geysircenter.is www.facebook.com/hotelgeysir / www.twitter.com/hotelgeysir Issue four 5

Insidethe Volcano Take part in a great adventure. Descend 120 metres into a volcano and explore an underground world.

For the first time in history, travelers have the opportunity to see what a volcano looks like on the inside. Descend into a 4.000 year old magma chamber and experience a new underground world.

Book now 6

WOW Power to the people

at: InsideTheVolcano.com

• Several departures a day • Maximum 15 people in each tour • Duration: 5-6 hours • Minimum age: 12 years • Fitness level needed: Moderate.

No knowledge of hiking or climbing is required.

Price: ISK 37,000 39,000 per person More info at InsideTheVolcano.com

Issue four 7

WE LOOK FORWARD TO WELCOMING YOU PRE-BOOKING REQUIRED

Blue Lagoon has limited availability Book 8 WOW online at bluelagoon.com Power to the people

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In this issue 12 Letter from the CEO

26 Searching for the Holy Grail in Iceland Some researchers believe that the elusive Holy Grail is hidden near a popular highland path in Iceland.

32 Bird’s eye view Seeing Iceland from above is a unique way to enjoy the island’s natural wonders.

38 Into the glacier Being on a glacier is an experience in itself but now you can venture into the glacier too.

42 Exploring the Highlands Let the scientist and adventurer tell you more about the Icelandic Highlands.

76 Heaven in the Highlands Hveravellir is an oasis in the center of Iceland.

104 Bikes and hikes in Copenhagen Have a fairytale vacation in the Danish capital.

80 Realm of Vatnajokull The Vatnajökull region is filled with contrasts: black beaches, white glaciers, red volcanoes, a green birch forest and the blue Atlantic Ocean.

106 Out and about in Boston Five things to see and do in Boston.

82 Good food in the west Don’t miss out on all the good food in the wild west of Iceland.

110 Heads-up London Read about the sordid history of the London Bridge.

84 Take a hike Hvalfjörður has been a popular destination for outdoor activities after it stopped being a part of the Ring Road (Route 1).

112 You want more?

Take a look at more of WOW air’s destinations.

86 The University of Iceland It’s time to take a look at one of Reykjavik’s iconic buildings.

88 Rest your head Icelandic nature is sometimes so great that you want to put it in your living room. … And you can!

90 WOW hair Get ready for high times with these great tips and tricks from our crew.

wowair.com Tel: 00 354 590 3020 E-mail: magazine@wow.is

U

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96 Amsterdam by bike Take a tour with Mike and explore the bike friendly city of Amsterdam.

54 Tips to avoid slips Six ways to avoid irritating an Icelander.

98 Berlin is sizzling Top 10 activities in a hot city.

70 Just a moment …

We love it when our guests share their WOW moments.

100 Dublin–get out of town!

The Wicklow Mountains can be seen from almost anywhere in Dublin and we recommend that you pay them a visit too.

WOW destinations

776

PRENTGRIPUR

Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit from publisher.

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46 Safety is key At the Laugavegur path in the Highlands there is a small monument, a quiet reminder of the volatility and harshness of the Icelandic Highlands.

Attention advertisers!

Will your company be in our next issue?

Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen. He’s just that good! halli@wow.is

Issue three 2015

umhverfisvottuð prentsmiðja

ERFISME HV R M

KI

© WOW air Katrínartún 12 105 Reykjavík Iceland

128 Bored on board?

Solve these sudokus.

Issue four 2015

Power to the PeoPle

Contributing writers: Marvin Lee Dupree, Svava Jónsdótt­ir, Gunnlaugur Rögnvaldsson, Gerður Harðardóttir, Einar Skúlason, Kári Gunnlaugsson, Fjóla Helgadóttir, Peter Bliek, Helga María Albertsdóttir, Sylvia Sabes, Kate Ware, Lynne Nolan, Paul Michael Herman and www.festivals.is

126 WOW horoscope What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed astrologist has the answer.

WOW magazine – The FOOd issue

Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Assisting editor: Fjóla Helgadóttir Design and layout: Ivan Burkni / ivan@ivan.is Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman

120 What’s going on? …quite a lot, actually.

Iceland 2.0

Awakening a nation Author Andri Snær Magnason isn’t just a terrific writer but an outspoken and witty social critic that happens to be a staunch and passionate advocate of Icelandic nature.

WOW magazine staff

114 This and that …mainly this.

130 The Traveling Inquisition We caught Lára Ómarsdóttir as she came down from the mountains and asked her a few questions.

Enjoy the Icelandic nature and help us pro­­­­tect it by leaving nothing behind on your travels.

Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir, editor in chief magazine@wow.is

108 Cork: The culture capital We simply can’t get enough of Ireland!

e

W

hat attracts many visitors to Iceland is the chance to enjoy the country’s natural wonders. There are a lot of great places to go and so, naturally, a lot of people go there. But what about those who want to spend some of their time enjoying unique places in nature where fewer people go? What should these nature-loving travelers do? Well, they could start by straying from the beaten track.

We would like to introduce you to Iceland 2.0—the mostly unseen, unspoil­ed and untrodden highlands, the glaciers and other destinations that you can’t see on a short daytrip from Reykjavik. You may need to plan your trip a little bit more, find a guide and/ or a suitable vehicle and prepare more carefully as there are volatile weather conditions up there and very few shops, restaurants or hotels, if any.

It’s almost like there are two Icelands.

The one that’s accessible to everyone and that probably drew you here in the first place; with its Golden Circle, Skógafoss, Reynisfjara Beach and Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon. Then there’s the Iceland 2.0 with its washboard like roads, color­ ful mountains, des­­erts and moon like landscapes, scarce accommodations, dangerous riv­ers to ford, adventures and endless possi­bilities for solitude!

It’s not for everyone but if you’re one of those who want to enjoy nature in peace and quiet away from the masses the Icelandic Highlands are definitely something for you.

20 Dramatic rams What could be more Icelandic, and yet more relatable, than a feature film about two brothers and their award winning rams?

102 Parisian pleasures If Paris becomes too hot for you, try escaping into the nearby nature for the perfect summer retreat.

az in

Off the beaten track

72 Walking on thick ice Traversing the glaciers by foot is one way to experience those white giants but don’t dream of doing it without a guide.

m ag

A letter from the editor

14 WOW Cyclothon The biggest ultra-cycling race in Iceland (and probably the world) was held in June.

See the photos, read the stories from the winning teams and find out how to join us next year for another circle around Iceland.

Power to the people – Issue four 2015

enter the hIghlands!

y o u r f r e e c o p y -ta k e m e w i t h y o u

On the cover We got the pleasure of taking Andri Snær Magna­son, writer, preservationist and social critic, to the lava fields by Krýsuvíkurvegur Road and up to Lake Grænavatn on the Reykjanes Peninsula.

Photos where shot by one of our all-time favorite photographers, Kristinn Magnússon, who was assisted by Jóhanna Ásgeirsdóttir during the shoot.

P.S. Would you like your very own copy of WOW magazine?

Take this one with you or contact us through magazine@wow.is and we’ll send you a printed copy.

You can also check out WOW magazine online at wowair.com.

Keeping Iceland warm since 1926

www.66north.com

Issue four 11

A letter from the CEO

Dear friends

What an amazing summer!

I am writing these words sitting in a fishing lodge at Langá, a great salmon river in Borgarfjörður, only 1 hour’s drive from Reykjavik. It’s a great way to enjoy Iceland’s incredible nature and spend quality time with friends and family. There are countless rivers and lakes that await both beginners as well as expert fly fishers, where you can test your skills... or luck! And of course nothing tastes better than a freshly caught salmon on the grill, especially if you landed it yourself. Another fantastic way to enjoy Iceland is by bike. Iceland offers some incredible road and mountain biking routes for all levels.

We at WOW air are especially proud of our relay bicycle competition, WOW Cyclothon, which is an endurance race 1358 km around Iceland. This year over 1000 cyclists took part on this incredible journey. The competition has doubled in size each year (I think it’s the only thing that is growing faster than WOW air) and no wonder since its absolutely amazing to be cycling in the middle of nowhere in the midnight sun as you pass by glaciers, waterfalls, the ocean and countless scenes that look like they come straight from Game of Thrones or Tolkien’s magic worlds. It is truly enchanting!

I hope you enjoy your flight and we look forward to seeing you again soon.

Cheers, Skúli Mogensen Founder and CEO of WOW air

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Make a toast with Iceland’s no. 1 beer Pour a glass of the number one beer in the country, raise your glass to a friend and say “scowl fyrewr thyer!” You should fit right in.

Skál fyrir þér!

Enjoy responsibly Issue four 13

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WOW Cyclothon 2015

WOW what a race!

In just four short years WOW Cyclothon has become one of the biggest ultra-cycling events in the world with over 1,000 participants in 2015. What are you doing next summer?

Photos: Kristinn MagnĂşsson

Issue four 15

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t seems unreal that the quick idea of Magnús Ragnarsson, VP of Media and Marketing at Iceland Telecom, and Skúli Mogensen, WOW air’s CEO, who wanted to create a real challenge in Iceland in 2012 should have materialized into something so big in just a few years. There seems to be a cycling craze going on in Iceland and we hope it won’t stop any time soon. WOW air loves cycling … and cyclists!

What’s it all about?

WOW Cyclothon has three main categories but for the most part it can be described as a non-stop relay race around Iceland where members of teams with either four or ten cyclists take turns cycling on the Ring Road around Iceland while raising pledges for a good cause. Then there is the solo category where the ultra­-hard take on the challenge of cycling the whole distance, over 1,300 kilometers, by themselves with the aid of their support teams.

Seven individuals took on the challenge this year but only four completed, and one of them, Eiríkur Ingi Jóhannsson, finis­hed for the second time.

The teams tell all Participants in WOW Cyclothon 2015 couldn’t have asked for more favorable weather this year, which should in some part be factor­ed into the great results. Also the new route for the final leg of the course, which despite adding 26 km to the distance, made it a little easier than in previous years.

From A to B From the beginning of WOW Cyclothon, the A category with teams of 4 cyclists and 2 drivers/ assistants has been for the serious cyclists. The B category, with teams of 10 cyclists who can take turns driving the support vehicles (they usually have two), has been more about team building and fun than competition. All this changed this year as some of the biggest names of the cycling scene in Iceland formed B teams to set a new record for WOW Cyclothon. And they did just that and then some. B category team Örninn Trek (who came in second as an A team in 2014) worked with HRF Ungliðar for most of the course, leaving behind Tindur B, which included some of Örninn Trek’s rivals from last year. Örninn Trek set a new WOW Cyclothon record by finishing the race in 36 hours and 51 minutes, almost an hour earlier than the first A team despite having started a whole hour later. They also improved last year’s best time (their own A team’s time actually) by 2 hours and 21 minutes. WOW! According to Hafsteinn Ægir Geirson, a member of Örninn Trek, the team did not train especially for WOW Cyclothon as all members are top cyclists and have their own training programs. “We did get together to discuss the practical aspects. Out of the ten members of our team only seven could got the entire course as three members couldn’t get

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time off work.” These three members became a big part of Örninn Trek’s race strategy as they cycled with the team in the beginning of the race, helping to drive up the speed, returned home on one of the team vehicles and met the team back in Vík on the south coast ca. 30 hours later, well rested and ready to race.

“This was supposed to be a fun ride but of course we also had our heart set on winning,” says Hafsteinn and has no reservations admitting that Örninn Trek’s official goal was also to beat Tindur B and take revenge for last year’s defeat.

Hafsteinn says the team’s race strategy was fairly simple; to find one or two teams to work with and leave the rest well behind. “The plan was to leave HFR Ungliðar behind at Vík when we’d meet up with the three members who couldn’t go the whole course. That plan worked perfectly although HFR Ungliðar weren’t as easy to get rid of as we’d imagined: Strong cyclists on that team.”

The Örninn Trek team had just one rule aboard their vehicle: No whining and no irritation. “That rule really worked out well for us. Then we told a lot of jokes about bodily functions. That always works great for morale when sleep deprivation sets in and the humor goes down to kindergarten level.”

A wild fire The winning team of WOW Cyclothon’s A category did not win by mere chance. The ‘Eldfljótir með ERGO’ (Fast as fire with Ergo) team’s members: Kári Brynjólfsson (b. 1988), Davíð Þór Sigurðs­ son (b. 1989), Rúnar Karl Elfarsson (b. 1991) and his brother Anton Örn Elfarsson (b. 1989), have all competed in multiple races with great results and all of them have received Ice­­­landic Cycling

Championship titles in various categories.

They’ve all been cycling from a young age with HFR (Reykjavik Cycling Club) and that’s where their friendship and love for the sport began.

The team’s members all train hard on their own but they still got together one time to train for WOW Cyclothon. “It was the Sunday before the race. We cycled the new final leg of the race. It was important to us to get to know this part of the course,” they say.

Even if they did not train together they obviously had their race strategy well planned and attacked the other teams as soon as the flying start began below Mt. Esja. “Shortly before we turned into Hvalfjörður the group had gotten a lot smaller and we were cycling with Team CUBE, SS Gólf and 18 Bláir.” They work­ed with these three teams all the way until Öxi mountain road where Team 18 Bláir got left behind. “We wanted to keep this collaboration going for as long as possible, although we did test our friends a few times.”

Three teams continued along the south coast at great speed but later Fast as Fire with Ergo and Team Cube managed to leave SS Gólf behind. The big attack came shortly before Selfoss. “Team Tindur B and Skoda from the B category were really driving up the pace and we decided to do the same.

Anton attacked and Davíð took the sprint through Selfoss and we managed to create a gap between us and Team CUBE. We decided to change tactics and started doing changeovers at much shorter intervals, 8-12 minutes max, where each cyclist really gave it his all. In retrospect we think that one of our strengths was how equal all of us are as cyclists. Each one of us was able to keep up the pace until we reached the finish line,” the guys say.

The Fast as Fire with Ergo team reached the finish line in 38 hours 43 minutes, almost half an hour faster than the fastest A teams of last year and 18 minutes before Team CUBE. Again? “We haven’t discussed it yet. It was a great experience and if we see strong teams signing up for next year’s race—who knows… it is tempting to go again and defend our title.”

“Three teams continued along the south coast at great speed but later Fast as Fire with Ergo and Team Cube managed to leave SS Gólf behind. The big attack came shortly before Selfoss.”

drive up our pace. We were careful to drink lots of fluids after each changeover and get a snack to eat but during such a high paced race you suddenly don’t have an appetite,” the members of HFR Fjólur tell us.

HFR Fjólur were determined to keep a positive spirit throughout the race and enjoy the ride.

“Arnaldur, our team manager, helped too. He began the race with purple nail polish on each of his thumbs. Whenever we reached a milestone on our journey we got to paint another pair of fingers and once we reached the finish line as the first female A team, we got to paint all his toes too,” they laugh.

The team reached the finish line in 45 hours and 7 minutes.

All the members of HFR Fjólur agree that this was a great race. “It was a big adventure for us and so much fun. We’re definitely going to do this again.”

All women’s teams WOW Cyclothon 2015 had a big boost in the num­ ber of female participants after adding all fe­­male categories to both the A and B classes as well as a mixed category in the B class. WOW Cyclo­­thon has had all women’s teams before but until this year only A class all women’s teams were rank­­ed specifically. A record number of female partici­­­ pants went the distance this year as over 250 wom­en entered the race, either as cyclists or driv­­ ers and often both.

A class ladies Team HFR Fjólur was created by three women, Bryndís, Inga Dagmar and Kolla, and during a cycl­ ing trip to Mallorca last spring they got the fourth one, Sigríður Ásta, to join the team. Inga Dag­mar and Bryndís had participated in WOW Cyclo­­thon before, also a members of A class teams, but all of them train together with HFR (Reykjavik Cycl­ing Club) and knew each other from there. “Our race plan was to do changeovers every 10-12 minutes with faster changes during long uphill slopes to

Photos: Egill Ingi Jónsson

The yellow Bs! HFR / Renault were formed after someone asked the question “Shouldn’t the HFR women have a team in WOW Cyclothon,” and so the three HFR women’s teams emerged. “This just goes to show how many quality female cyclists there are in the club, the HFR women winning both the A and B categories,” the members of HFR / Renault say.

The members of HFR / Renault agree that train­ ing especially for the race was unnecessary as they all train cycling year round but there were other things like making a race strategy and plann­ing the changeovers and sleeping arrange­­ments that need­­ed their attention before the race. “We wanted to do this together as one team so we didn’t split up into two groups like many B teams do in this race,” they say.

The HFR / Renault team never publicly announced their plans to win the race but they all agree that this was their goal. “We were confident and not winning was never an option. We also had a time goal, we wanted to finish as close to 40 hours as possible. But of course we also wanted to have fun and come home without injuries,” they say.

“We were personally in hard competition with Team Kría, another all women’s team. They beat us during the first changeover in Hvalfjörður so we had to put all our efforts into catching up with them. The race was on between us until after Holta­­ vörðuheiði [North West Iceland] when we’d finally put a wide enough gap between us and man­­ag­­ed to keep them well behind us the rest of the race.”

“The teams we were working with never had a hard agreement about working together through­­ out the race so all of us had to keep on guard and be ready for attacks. At the Öxi moun­­­tain road the gaps between teams became wider but Guðbjörg put herself into a mad gear and swooshed down Öxi to catch up. We caught up with Team Sana and Síminn in Berufjörður and with them we drove up the pace to catch up with Team Advania and then Landsbankinn but by then Sana and Síminn were left behind. Despite all our good teamwork all teams had to be wary and by Kleifarvatn, close to Issue four 17

Finishing WOW Cyclothon solo in first place was a dream come true for Matthias and his team. “To circle Iceland by bike, in a race and then to win that race is the best we’ve ever done,” he says. Would Matthias recommend WOW Cyclothon to other ultra-cyclists? “Of course, this is a special race with incredible landscape! Every ultra-cyclists has to try this race!” Matthias also has a few words of advice for those who dream about going the distance: “Train hard in bad weather conditions and organize a great and fun team! If you and your team have a lot of fun you are more likely to finish the race.

I believe that fun is the best motivation and good motivation is the key!”

the finish line, Team Landsbankinn and Advania made an attack we weren’t quite ready for. We got left behind but still we reached the finish line smiling from ear to ear and so blissfully happy after 42 hours and 45 minutes on the road.”

Will we see HFR / Renault again next year? “We are all about the competition and have already set our goal on improving our time.”

HFR / Renault members agree that the whole trip was a blast. “Being outside, cycling and having fun in the Icelandic nature, day and night, competing, enjoying life and spending over 40 hours in great company, what could be more amazing than that?”

Having fun is fundamental Cycling around Iceland as a solo participant is no small challenge and of the seven solo participants that started the race only four finished. The first to arrive at the finish line, after only 61 hour and 53 minutes (12 hours and 35 minutes faster than the first solo contestants of 2014), was Matthias Ebert from Germany.

Matthias has competed multiple times in the ultra-cycling races Tortour (both solo and as part of a team) and Race Across the Alps, the hardest one day race in the world. He started training his neck, back and shoulders seven months before WOW Cyclothon and at the end of March he went on a training tour to the Grand Canary Islands.

“The organization was often very stressful. It’s a challenge to prepare for a race in Iceland while you’re in Germany. It was also a great challenge to have a good and effective training while working a full-time job,” says Matthias.

From our first en­count­ers with Matthias’ assi­­ stants it was clear that they were very organized but also focused on having fun on the road. “This team is unbelievable. We are best friends who do sports together, and we celebrate and have fun all year round. Doing the WOW Cyclothon itself was

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just a small part of what this team has done, the main organization began 5 months before with meetings, teambuilding and training together.

This is definitely the funniest team in the world and we had a party from start to finish,” Matthias says.

Matthias’ favorite part of the race was after Egilsstaðir where he had a good rest, 1.5 hours to be precise. “I really enjoyed the gravel road [Öxi mountain road]… For the last 300 km we had a back storm which was great and arriving during the third night of the race on the new part of the course, the landscape was amazing and our average speed for the last 300 km was over 30 km/h,” he says. The hardest part of WOW Cyclothon for Matthias was probably the cold. “Iceland is cold, with strong and cold wind. One night my Garmin showed -4°C. Also the asphalt is very coarse; there were difficult gravel roads and then the endless straight stretches.”

“This is a special race with incredible landscape! Every ultra-cyclists has to try this race!”

Cycling Power A new class was added to this year’s cyclothon for the youngsters of Hjólakraftur (Cycling Power), a project aimed at children and teenagers who for various reasons are battling with lifestyle diseases.

Last year one Hjólakraftur team signed up for the regular B category race. They may have finished last but they won the hearts of everyone with their efforts and managed to raise over one million ISK in pledges making them the winners of WOW Cyclothon’s pledge raise for a good cause.

This year Hjólakraftur had four teams who all worked together in a special category. They also raised pledges as a group and won the pledge competition as one, again raising over one million ISK. Combined the participants of WOW Cyclo­ thon raised over 21 million ISK that will go toward building and managing an activity center at the University Hospital of Iceland’s Psychiatric Department at Kleppur. Go TEAMS! v

Get ready for 2016!

WOW Cyclothon 2016 dates will soon be announced so stay tuned and follow the race on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. Also check out #wowcyclothon on Instagram to see photos from participants of the race.

And of course there’s a homepage too: www.wowcyclothon.com.

WE’LL TAKE YOU THERE!

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Issue four 19

The Icelandic film, Rams has really touched the world with its unique story about rams and their breeders, sweeping up the prestigious Un Certain Regard award at the Cannes Film Festival.

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Director and crew of Rams living it up in Cannes.

Issue four 21

A

film about rams getting a disease on the remote countryside, with two brothers that don’t speak to each other, although living on the same land? Yeah sure, this synopsis does cover the basic plot of the film Rams by Grímur Hákonarson, but it really does not capture the film’s true essence. Emotions run high, and not the kind where people show them, but the kind where you feel

Metaphorical rams Asked if the film could be construed as an allegory or a metaphor, for the bank crisis for example, Grímur says he can’t deny that the film has several references, but he really wants the audience to draw their own conclusions. But still, one has to wonder if the rams are indeed a metaphor for money, with the rams being the single most important thing that the two brothers own, and when

“The residents of Bárðardalur were really helpful and really happy we chose their valley for the film’s location. Many of the farmers actually play in the film, trained the animals and some even took part in the production process,” says Grímur.

Grímur‘s films 2015 - RAMS

feature film 2013 - HVELLUR documentary 2012 - PURE HEART documentary 2010 - SUMMERLAND

feature film 2007 - WRESTLING

short film

them boiling beneath the surface. The film really has much more emotion than you’d think, being a film about rams and all!

Stubborn as rams!

Rams tells the story of two ram breeding brothers in Bárðardalur in north Iceland, a valley known for its excellent sheep breeding and the country’s best rams.

The brothers haven’t spoken in 40 years, both as stubborn as, well, rams, but must come together when a disease hits their flocks. The two farm houses the brothers live at, Mýri and Bólstaður, are very remote, almost at the edge of civilization, with the stunning surroundings perfectly suited for a film of this sort.

“The residents of Bárðardalur were really helpful and really happy we chose their valley for the film’s location. Many of the farmers actually play in the film, trained the animals and some even took part in the production process,” says Grímur. Like many Icelanders, Grímur got used to going to the countryside as a kid, and so, like his parents grew up with a strong connection to the countryside, or “sveitin” as we Icelanders call it.

He wanted to make a film about rural Iceland and his experience. Growing up, he had actually heard stories about brothers who shared land but weren’t on speaking terms. The brothers’ plight in this sort of tragi-comical circumstance is what Grímur really found perfect for a film like his. Grímur says the two brothers in the film portray an image of the typical Icelander, stubborn and strong willed, striving for independence as they don’t want to owe anyone anything.

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WOW Power to the people

something happens to their most prized possessions, they really have nothing left but each other and must make amends lest they lose everything. Grímur says Icelandic farmers share a strong bond with their flocks of rams, and many of them consider the species sacred, much like the cows in India.

Directing a bunch of sheep and rams must have been challenging at times, and according to Grímur there is no shortage of sheep related stories to share! For example in one scene where the sheep had to go back to their sheepfold in the middle of summer; as is customary in Iceland the sheep get out of their sheepfold in spring and head to the mountains and don’t come back until fall. So naturally the sheep weren’t too excited about going back in, well aware that the timing was totally off! So Grímur had a flock of 200 insurgent sheep on his hands, rebelling so vigorously they struck a fence and broke it down, the sheep scattering all over the place and nearly running down expensive equipment and lights.

Films At only 38 years of age, Grímur has already been in the film industry for twenty years. He graduated from FAMU, Academy of Performing Arts, in Prague in 2004 and his final project, Slavek the Shit, was selected for the film festival in Cannes and won several awards. But long before that, Grímur was making films independently—short films and documentaries, with his most known film, aside from Rams, also taking place in the countryside. Bræðrabylta or Wrestling, is about two gay wrestlers

2005 - SLAVEK THE SHIT

short film 2004 - LAST WORDS OF HREGGVIDUR

short film 2002 - VARDI GOES EUROPE documentary 2001 - VARDI GOES ON TOUR documentary

who must keep their relationship a secret. The movie gained huge popularity and won 25 awards worldwide. Among his documentaries is Hvellur (The Laxá Farmers), a movie that addresses the events in 1970 leading up to Iceland’s only terrorist action, when a group of farmers used dynamite in protest for a power plant in Laxá in Mývatn, blowing up a dam. Perhaps Grímur’s background in documentaries is the magic to his realistic touch in his fiction films, but all share a great humor underneath the solemn ambience.

Rams at film festivals The Prix Un Certain Regard awards at the film festival in Cannes, is the most prestigious award any Icelandic film has ever received. Grímur says the awards mean a lot, not just to the people involved in the film but also for the Icelandic film industry. Only a few days after Cannes, the film received two awards at the Transilvania Film Festival in Romania. Grímur expects to be living out of his suitcase for the next few months as the film is booked for several film festivals, jokingly adding he will need to rent an apartment near an international airport. The film has been sold all over the world, with most film festivals showing a lot of interest in it.

There has even been talk about remaking the film, but Grímur does not want to confirm anything just yet. Rams has received amazing reviews and has done really well in theaters in Iceland. For at least the remainder of summer it will be shown with English subtitles at the Bíó Paradís Theater. So, if you’re visiting Iceland a trip to the movies is a must! v

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WOW air recommends

What a fun trip!!

Gaman Ferðir (Fun Trips) is an Icelandic travel agency that WOW air has worked closely with from its founding and is now a part owner of. Obviously we can’t recommend Gaman Ferðir enough as they have many years of experience when it comes to planning fun trips.

Soon Gaman Ferðir will start yet another exciting project which is organizing trips to Iceland from WOW air’s destinations.

I

n 2003 Þór Bæring Ólafsson and Bragi Hinrik Magnússon, founders of Gaman Ferðir, founded Markmenn, a travel agency whose specialty was putting together fun trips to major league soccer games and big concerts abroad for Icelanders.

In very short time they became very popular as their goal was always to give their guests the best prices available, beating the competition.

Holidays for everyone Gaman Ferðir Travel Agency was founded in 2012 by these two colleagues and it only seemed natural that they would revive their legendary soccer and concert trips, and so they did. From the beginning Þór and Bragi have been in great collaboration with WOW air working together on a lot of fun projects. Gaman Ferðir Travel Agency has grown immensely in just three years and now plans a great variety of trips which, besides soccer games and concerts, cater to golfers who want to play in Spain, England and Ireland, provide big group trips for sport clubs and offer specialty trips to shows such as the BETT show in London. The latest additions include ski trips and the ever popular and relaxing beach trips to places like Tenerife, Costa Blanca and Costa Brava.

Low prices – High quality While Gaman Ferðir Travel Agency has been able to beat the prices on all fronts they still make sure that all hotels are up to standards so no matter how good their offers you can trust that Gaman Ferðir will deliver

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WOW Power to the people

in quality. The travel agency has been popular among staff associations and big companies who want to take their employees on unique team building trips and in such cases Gaman Ferðir can plan everything from flights and accommodations to catering, venues, music, photographers, bus fares and MCs among other things.

Package trips to Iceland Soon Gaman Ferðir will start yet another exciting project which is organizing trips to Iceland from WOW air’s destinations. The Gaman Ferðir tours to Iceland will include Northern Lights packages, whale watching, accommodations, flights, rental cars and anything that travelers might want to add to their trips; the competent staff at Gaman Ferðir will take care of everything.

If you’re looking for a luxurious golfing holiday, a magical vacation to Iceland, a big company outing or to prolong your summer at one of WOW air’s hot destinations you can be sure that Gaman Ferðir will put together the whole package and give you the best price on a fun trip. v

www.gaman.is

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Vodafone Við tengjum þig

*Kynntu þér nánar hvaða lönd um ræðir á vodafone.is

Issue four 25

Kjölur hiking

Searching for the Holy Grail in Iceland Recent scientific research suggests that the Holy Grail is hidden somewhere in a cave along the Kjölur Route (Ghost Road) in the interior of Iceland. During a secret mission, the Knights Templar would have taken this and other temple treasures from Jerusalem to Iceland in the thirteenth century. This, in any case, is what the Italian geologist Giancarlo Gianazza believes. He says he has found important clues indicating this in Dante’s poems and Da Vinci’s painting The Last Supper. Several expeditions in this ­ ­volcanically active territory have not yet managed to turn up the Grail.

by Peter Bliek Photos: Peter Bliek and Thinkstockphotos.com

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Issue four 27

T

he Kjölur Route was used by the Vik­­­ ings as early as the ninth century. This “phant­om highway” that extends for hund­­r­­eds of kilometers, goes in­­land from the north, runs southward in between the Langjökull and Hofsjökull glaci­­ers and crosses steaming lava fields along hot bubbling pools. A varied walking route of forty-four kilometers runs in between the glacial lake Hvítár­­ vatn and Hveravellir, a field of hot springs. Walk­ers can cover it in four days, staying the night in four cozy mountain huts of the Icelandic scout­­­ing organization Ferðafélag Íslands. Unlike on the popular trekking route Laugavegur (Hot Springs Path), one meets few walkers on the obscure Kjölur Route.

Haunted road Superstitious Icelanders avoid the Kjölur Route, believing it to be haunted. Two brothers from the sheep farm Reynisstaðir along with three fellow travelers and a hundred sheep were surprised by a snowstorm in the winter of 1780 that had arrived early in the season and froze them to death; legend has it that their spirits still roam the Kjölur Route. The remains of the men and the sheep were found near a hill and, out of respect for the dead, still lie there. The site is aptly known as Beinhól (Bone Hill).

One can start out on the Kjölur Walking Route from Hveravellir, north of the extensive lava field Kjalhraun

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with its hot springs or from the south at the oldest mountain hut (1930) of the scouting organization, by the green-blue glacial lake Hvítárvatn. A reason to start out at Hvítárvatn is that one can round off four days of trekking with a thermal bath in the hot pool of Hveravellir. It’s a four-hour drive from Reykjavik to the start of the route. You are dropped in the middle of nowhere and cover eight kilometers on foot through a deserted, barren landscape until you reach the first mountain hut on the edge of Hvítárvatn which is fed by two snouts of the Langjökull glacier that glisten blindingly in the evening sun.

The second stretch, from Hvítár­­vatn to the mountain hut Þverbrekkna­múli, covers 14 kilo­­­met­­

Two brothers from the sheep farm Reynisstaðir along with three fellow travelers and a hundred sheep were surprised by a snowstorm in the winter of 1780 that had arrived early in the season and froze them to death; legend has it that their spirits still roam the Kjölur Route.

ers through flat, tundra-like terrain with Arctic vegetation and swirling brooks. Þver­brekknamúli lies on the foot of the glaciated, 1,396-meter tall table mountain Hrútfell. From there, it’s a 12 kilometer walk on the third day along the churning Fúla­­kvísl (Foul River) to the tiny mountain hut into the picturesque green Þjófadalir (Valley of Thieves).

This valley lies hidden between the mountain peak Þjófafell (900 meters) and the red mountain peak Rauð­­kollur (1,075 meters). The valley owes its name to the sheep thiev­­es who in medieval times hid out here along with their woolly booty. With its green meadows brimm­­ing with creamy buttercups,

sweetly meandering and gurgling mountain streams and melting traces of snow on rusty brown slopes, this idyllic environment is reminiscent of an Alpine meadow. According to the calculations of geologist Giancarlo Gianazza, the Holy Grail might well be tucked away somewhere here.

An extremely steep, rather risky climb from the valley along the scree slopes to the top of Rauð­­ kollur is rewarded with wonderful vistas of the Icelandic interior. Westward you see the im­­pressive, 950-meter expanse of the Langjökull glacier, a thick ice sheet covering the top of the 1,450-meter mountain chains. This is the second largest glacier in Iceland. In the east, a few dozen kilometers away across from the Kjalhraun lava field lay the circular

ice sheet of the 1,796-meter Hofs­­jökull glacier, glist­­ ening in the sunlight. The final ten-kilometer stretch to the hot springs field Hveravellir leads across the fairly flat Kjalhraun lava field. At a distance of several kilo­­­meters you can see the steam plumes spiraling up­­wards, and sulphur fumes waft toward you with a smell of rotten eggs.

Hveravellir is one of Iceland’s most beautiful geothermal areas. There are at least a dozen thermal springs in this hot spring field. The two best known ones are Bláhver and Öskur­hóls­ hver. Bláhver is a blue, cylindrical hot spring that owes its color to the high levels of sili­con dioxide and other minerals deposited on the edges like a colorful, decorative crust. Öskur­hólshver is the best-known spring; a small, conical geyser con­­sisting of silicon deposits. Steam comes hissing out of its yellow tip under continuous high pressure.

Issue four 29

Moving ground The hot springs field is home to Hveravellir weather station. This is where German seismologist Martin Hensch carries out research into the movements of the earth’s crust. The research station has hightech measuring equipment all over the place; for example the GPS device that registers the earth crust’s movement every fifteen seconds. Martin explains that the weather station is on the North American tectonic plate, which is moving away from the European plate by an average of 9.7 milli­­­meters a year. The European plate returns the favor, causing the distance between these plates to increase by almost two centimeters per year on average.

Sometimes tectonic plates move at a few centi­­­ meters per second. This happened in 2008 when southern Iceland was hit by a heavy earthquake caused by a plate that moved no fewer than twenty centimeters on a horizontal axis in A lost hiker, seeking the space of a few refuge from a seconds. Apart from horizontally, storm in an as yet the earth’s crust undiscovered lava can also be cave on the Kjölur pushed upwards Route, may yet vertically. This stumble upon the happened in 2010, just before the chalice from which eruption of the Jesus Christ and notorious volcano his disciples drank Eyjafjallajökull, at the Last Supper several hundred just before his kilometers away.

The magma surge crucifixion. in the core of the

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magma chamber, at four to six kilometers below the earth’s crust caused the earth to rise by over two decimeters in the course of four weeks in a ten-kilo­­meter radius around the volcano. It also caused the crust to move between fourteen and sixteen centimeters horizontally, only to bounce back after the eruption.

Apart from researching tectonic plate move­­ ments, Martin also investigates the quaking of the earth’s crust. In the spring of 2013, he says, in­­creased seismic activity was recorded. The avera­ge number of quakes is between 800 and 1,200 a month. Normally they register below 3 on the Richter scale; a few quakes register 4 to 4.5 and may be felt slightly. March and April saw a sudden upsurge of 3,000 quakes, and as many as 6,000 were registered in May. Martin suspects that the quakes were due to a stress change in the magmatic system deep below the earth’s crust.

This is a kind of volcanic activity where the magma flows horizontally instead of erupting upwards through the earth’s crust. Such quakes resemble ordinary, tectonically driven quakes. However, in case of the latter there are abrupt horizontal plate movements followed by a series of aftershocks.

Stress change in the magmatic system, on the other hand, sees a gradual build-up of the number of quakes, accompanied by a continuous and even horizontal movement.

Mythical landscape In 2004, a team of Italian researchers led by Giancarlo Gianazza, traveled to the Icelandic inter­­ior in search of the Holy Grail. Following a pain­­staking investigation of Leonardo Da Vinci’s paint­­ing The Last Supper as well as Dante’s Divine

Comedy, Gianazza believed to have found essential indications that the Holy Grail and other temple treasur­es were hidden in a five-meter deep cave in the Icelandic interior by eighty Knights Templar on a secret mission in 1217. Gianazza even claims that the monastic military order, hid the holy relics from Jerusalem in the highland with the help of Icelandic poet Snorri Sturluson, of Prose Edda renown.

According to Gianazza, if you overlay Da Vinci’s painting on top of a map of the Icelandic interior where the Kjölur Route traverses it, you will find important clues about the Grail’s location.

Combining these clues with The Divine Comedy, in theory it should be possible to calculate the precise coordinates of the secret cave. Gianazza believes The Divine Comedy isn’t a mythical tale about the afterlife, but the coded account of a secret trip which the poet, a disguised Templar in Gianazza’s view, would have made to Iceland in 1319. Dante’s clear description of a secret room, Gianazza believes, contains references to typical Icelandic geological locations. Gianazza published his findings a number of years before bestseller author Dan Brown published his much-discussed book The Da Vinci Code.

Gianazza suspects that Iceland’s reputation as a faraway, obscure, frozen outlier of Europe during the middle Ages is what made the Templars select the volcanic island as a hiding place. But in spite of all of the sleuthing and the expeditions

by Gianazza and his team, the Holy Grail has not turned up so far. A lost hiker, seeking refuge from a storm in an as yet undiscovered lava cave on the Kjölur Route, may yet stumble upon the chalice from which Jesus Christ and his disciples drank at the Last Supper just before his crucifixion. v

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Rise above it

A bird’s eye view

There’s nothing quite like soaring the sky and looking at the wonderful world below. If you are up for some serious sightseeing why not take a different approach and rise above it all?

Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

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The massive mountain Not far from Reykjavik there’s an active volcanic mountain known as Hengill. Don’t worry, it hasn’t really gone off in like 2,000 years but it is declared active due to its numerous hot springs and fumaroles and, from time to time, earthquakes. Reaching from Thingvellir to the town of Hveragerði, the Hengill volcanic area is 100 km long and 15 km wide. Hengill is believed to have been built up over some hundreds of thousands of years and as such it’s much older than the other volcanic systems on the Reykjanes Peninsula; still it is categorized as part of Iceland’s western volcanic belt. The area is truly mystical with a combination of rolling hills and mossy lava fields dotted with hot springs and steaming fumaroles.

The volcano’s geothermal energy is captured at Nesjavellir Power Station and the Hellisheiði Power Station, providing electricity for the capital and its surrounding towns.

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Since Reykjavik became an official trading town it has grown steadily and trans­­­form­­ed into a surprisingly cosmo­­politan city considering its size.

The cool capital You probably know all about Reykjavik, Iceland’s capital and largest city. This is the northernmost capital in the world with a population of ca. 120,000 people but over 200,000 if you count the whole capital region.

It is believed that this is the location of the first permanent settlement on the island, established by Ingólfur Arnarson in 870 AD. The town of Reykjavik wasn’t founded until 1786 and for a

while it looked as if Eyrarbakki, now a small village on the south coast, would become the nation’s capital. After the founding of Reykjavik as an official trading town it has grown steadily and transformed into a surprisingly cosmopolitan city considering its size. Today it is one of the cleanest, greenest and safest cities in the world. Almost everywhere you go in Reykjavik you will be able to see Mt. Esja and Mt. Akrafjall across the sea and what a cool backdrop for a city to have.

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The area around Mývatn is known as a large waterbird habitation and is dominated by volcanic landforms such as lava pillars and pseudo craters.

The wetlands and the wilderness If you venture into northern Iceland make sure you take a ride by Lake Mývatn, a shallow eutrophic lake located in an area of active volcanism, not far from Krafla Volcano. This is the undisputed gem of the northeast with its otherworldly land­scape and just east of the area is the Mývatns­ öræfi (also known as Möðrudals­­öræfi) Wild­erness.

The area around Mývatn is known as a large waterbird habitation and is dominated by volcanic landforms such as lava pillars and pseudo craters. You will go high up to enjoy the majestic mountains of the Mývatns­öræfi Wilderness rising up from the seemingly endless flat wasteland. You’ll see Búrfell, Skólamannafjöll, Jörundur, Eilífur, Herðubreið (Mt. Broadshoulders, the queen of Icelandic mountains) and Herðubreiðarfjöll.

Fortunately most places can be enjoyed from the ground also so after your flight we fully recommend that you don’t miss out on walking through Dimmuborgir (Dark Castles) a large area of unusually shaped lava fields east of Lake Mývatn. v Special thanks to Norðurflug Helicopter Tours: www.helicopter.is and Mýflug Air: www.myflug.is for taking us above and beyond.

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W W W. I C E W E A R. I S

Into the Glacier!

Cool down inside Langjökull Ever wonder what it’s like deep underground? Try a trip into the glacier and you might get an idea.

by Fjóla Helgadóttir Photos: Courtesy of Into the Glacier

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Issue four 39

I

t was a sunny day and I was up early, excited for my trip into Langjökull glacier. I had never been even up to the glacier’s edge, much less on the glacier itself, and here I was going inside one! Sure, I had seen pictures and information on the Into the Glacier’s website, which explained the trips they offered fairly well, but actually I had no idea what I was going to experience, other than seeing Europe’s largest manmade tunnels and caves. So naturally on that sunny morning, I was eager to hit the road, and make the two and a half hour drive from Reykjavik to Húsafell, near the glacier’s edge.

Being up on the glacier is If you’re contemplating in itself quite an experience taking a trip into the and the view is breathtaking, glacier, you should really especially on a clear day. make sure the rest of the day is free so you can do a little sightseeing and make the most of your journey, it’s guaranteed to blow you away. And if you find yourself short on time, Húsafell has a beautiful camping site so you don’t really have to limit your experience to just one day.

A little history Since I hadn’t been in this part of Iceland in a few years, I had forgotten how beautiful it really is. Stopping at Reykholt where Snorri Sturluson the famous Icelandic historian, poet and poli­ tician, lived in the middle ages, and admiring the Reykholtskirkja church is a must. Visiting Snorrastofa, a cultural and medieval center, is also a great idea. And if you have time you should definitely buy some fresh strawberries in the small hut by the road; they’re freshly picked every day and cheaper than from a regular store.

Hraunfossar, also in the area, are magnificent waterfalls stretching 900 meters along a lava field called Hallmundarhraun. Nearby is the beautiful Barnafoss waterfall with its sad tale of two little boys who drowned there a long time ago. Barnafoss literally means children’s waterfall, a name dedicated to the waterfall’s history.

Getting up there I took Route 1 out of Reykjavik and just before the bridge to Borgarnes I turned onto Borgarfjarðarbraut (Route 50) to get to Húsafell. From Húsafell I took a bus up to the glacier’s edge, where a monstrous 8 wheel super truck carried me onto the glacier and right to the opening of the tunn­ el. The bus drive from Húsafell took about 30 minutes on a gravel road so rutted I was glad I didn’t drive my car up to the meeting point, as I’m quite fond of it. I would advise

the glacier and the clear blue sky along the horizon. On the sound system a tour guide explained the surroundings of Langjökull glacier; very informative and surprisingly clear, unlike most sound systems I have come across in my day!

Once we got to the top, two friendly tour guides greeted us and had us split into two groups, with each group containing 10 people. The groups scanned their sur­round­ ings. Being up on the glacier is in itself quite an experience and the view is breathtaking,

The drive with the 8 wheel truck on the glacier was really quite uneventful, at least for an Icelander.

travelers to book a seat on the bus unless they have a vehicle suited for rough terrain.

The drive with the 8 wheel truck on the glacier was really quite uneventful, at least for an Icelander. It was much like driving in the snow in the middle of winter, too comm­on an occurrence if you ask me! But I could tell my fellow travelers were excited, all of which were of different nationalities than myself, taking photos and videos of

especially on a clear day. The travelers took photos and had pictures taken of them­ selv­es standing on top of Iceland’s second larg­est glacier.

What to wear It‘s cold up there so I was glad I wore my warm down jacket but I resisted the urge to grab my not-so-fashionable rain trousers from my bag. Turned out I didn’t actually need them, which was a relief for my fashion sense! I did feel sorry for a lady in my group wearing brand new white sneakers she chose for this occasion, I guess she‘ll remember that sneakers inside a glacier is not the greatest idea. A good pair of snow boots, or even hiking boots complemented with a nice pair of woolen socks, preferably Icelandic wool, are the best foot gear on a trip like this. Once we were inside the guide gave each of us crampons to put over our boots and all of us were good to go, even the white sneakers lady, bless her heart, although her toes must have been a teensy bit cold by the end of the trip. It also wouldn’t hurt to bring along a hat and warm mittens, just in case, as the average temperature inside the glacier is about 0°C. Deep inside Langjökull glacier Our tour guide was very informative and talked us through the evolution of glaciers, pointing out the fact that no one actually knows if the tunnels will still be here after ten years. Just like a river is ever changing, so is a glacier, although at a much slower rate. It was fascinating to see dark lines of

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ash from past volcanic eruptions and dust from the highlands line the walls of the glacier tunnels.

The biggest surprise inside the And to realize just how slow a rate glacier though was a huge crevasse, we are talking, lines from recent discovered by the workers who made eruptions such as in Bárðarbunga the tunnels. in 2014 or even Eyjafjallajökull in 2010 are not yet visible inside the glacier. It was awesome to be able to go inside a glacier and witness how the glacier keeps a record of the geological history, and being one of the fortunate few who gets to do that. Since we were visiting Langjökull in the summer and with the glacier indeed ever changing, we unsurprisingly experienced a little dripping here and there—nothing a hat or a hood couldn’t fix.

The tunnels inside the glacier have a few rooms with benches and beautiful lighting and we took time out to take photos while our guide told us people can get married in there and throw parties, and even concerts!

The biggest surprise inside the glacier though was a huge crevasse, discovered by the workers who made the tunnels. It has been lit up fairly well so guests are able to see just how far out this thing stretches.

might have been laugh­­­ing with a hint of nervousness. When we got back to Húsafell it was a nice treat to be able to buy some refreshments at the con­­venient store and eat outside in the beautiful weather. On the patio surrounding the restaurant, birds were chirping and children were playing in a small playground.

The area surrounding Húsafell is sure to become more and more popular in the years to come especially now with this great attraction so close by. I recommend a visit there as soon as possible. Due to climate change and the current melting speed of glaciers a trip into Langjökull glacier could be a once in a lifetime experience. v

Getting down The trip back down from the glacier on the 8 wheeler was a blast! The driver sort of speeded up the “monster” and we jiggled our way along, the seat belts tightly securing everyone in their seats, the travelers grinning at each other and laugh­ing, although some Book your trip into the Glacier and find more information on www.intotheglacier.com.

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Issue four 41 TAX FREE

Exploring the highlands

There are two Icelands, the coastal region where everybody lives and the highlands where no one does, that is, unless you’re a scientist, an adventurer or an outlaw. Björn Hróarsson, owner and director of the travel agency, Extreme Iceland is both a scientist and an adventurer. He can tell us about this uninhabited region, and if you’re bold and wish to discover its secrets, will even take you there.

by Paul Michael Herman Photos: Courtesy of Extreme Iceland

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I

n a recent interview with WOW magazine, Björn provided insight into this remote land mass that covers more than half of Iceland.

A big part of it is black desert, made of volcanoes, craters, lava

What’s it like?

“As a geologist, from about 1985 until 2006, I did research in the highlands mainly on volcanoes, lava fields, lava tube caves and lava flow. I worked alone, gath­ering knowledge and later colla­­ borat­ed with the University of England in Bormouth, where I’d gotten my degree.

During this more than 20 year span I went to every lava field and every cave—I hiked every mountain,” says Björn and then quotes Al Pacino: “’I’ve been around, you know.’ When you’re doing research you spend a good amount of time in every place going to places far beyond the road systems where other people never go.”

Most of the area Björn speaks about is not green; there are no trees, forests or anything like that. A big part of it is black desert, made of volcanoes, craters, lava fields, black sands and rock; also central volcanoes, calderas, table mountains and shield volcanoes, (named after Mt. Skjaldbreidur located north of Þingvellir National Park).

Björn explains that Skjaldbreidur translates into Shield Mountain because it looks like a Viking shield lying flat with its back to the ground, lower around the perimeter and rising at a slight incline toward the center. “The biggest known shield volcano in our solar system,” Björn explains, “is Olympus Mons on Mars; 374 miles in diameter (624 km) and 16 miles high (25 km), about the same size as the state of Arizona.”

Björn continues describing Iceland’s interior, “It usually dry in the highlands, meaning mostly clear and a perfect loca­­

fields, black sands and rock; also central volcanoes, calderas, table mountains and shield volcanoes.

Natural resources Perhaps one of the reasons why the Ice­­landic highlands have re­­ mained rela­­­tively untouched is the fact that there are no minerals in Iceland. “It’s a young land, just made of volcanic eruptions—just basalt [volcanic rock formed from the rap­id cooling of basaltic lava]. But we have big glacial rivers and some government officials with commercial interests want hydro-power plants there making electricity. If that happens, there’s a danger of corrupting the en­­­ vironment. The battle against this has been going on for the past twenty years and it’s a hard fight. In fact, just the last couple of weeks they’ve been grappling with this in parliament.”

As you might have guessed, Björn loves nature and his heart is with the environmentalists. “We need visionaries—officials that see beyond four years, until the next election.”

Living in the highlands Iceland is located just below the Arctic Circle, but thanks to the Gulf Stream that envelopes the island, living near the coastline is rather comfortable. Even in the winter, temperatures average a moderate 32°F (0°C), while in the highlands it’s an average 14°F (-10°C).

Does anyone live there?

“During the summer months the people that take care of visitors and prepare the area for service and accommodations are living there, but still not many,” Björn replies, “but no one ordinarily lives there during the winter. Last year was an exception when scientists were watching the eruptions of Holuhraun.”

“Some centuries ago there were outlaws living all over the high­­­ lands. These were people who had been convicted of crimes and were given the choice to spend their sentence imprisoned or up

A B

C D

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tion to hunt for the northern lights in the winter. In the summer it’s a great place for camping. The lack of precipitation makes it one of the driest places in Europe and that’s partly why there’s so much desert.”

While the Icelandic highlands are as big as England, Björn explains that they are 10 times England in travel distance.

“The rea­­son for this is that there are so few roads.”

“Up there you get a wonderful feeling of being alone. It’s especially good for city people.”

there where they could be free.” We gather that the winter experience in the highlands was enough to make anyone repentant.

Tours Extreme Iceland offers a series of summer and winter tours. One destination available all year round is to Landmannalaugar, a location about 1,540 feet above sea level (600 meters). Camping in the area and hiking through the colorful rhyolite mountains is a popular pastime in the summer. In the winter and summer alike hot springs in the area are a big attraction and during the winter the northern lights often delight the adventurers by per­­form­ ing their celestial dance.

In the summertime, if you’d like to go to hell, Extreme Iceland will take you deep into the highlands to famous volcanic craters Víti (meaning hell) and Askja with its 19.3 square mile (50 km2) caldera. The night will be spent in the safe shelter of a mountain hut.

One thing you can be sure of when join­ ing one of Björn’s expeditions is the benefit of his unique experience that gives each tour a depth and character only someone who has made the highlands his own can offer.

Safety first What kind of safety precautions are need­ed for an individual deciding to travel the Icelandic Highlands? “I do not advise individuals to travel the highlands without a guide or group. This place is different than anywhere else on earth and can be dangerous for those who don’t have the knowledge.”

There are, undoubtedly, extraordinary places around the world that would be great to visit. You might like to put the Highlands of Iceland high on your list. v

A. A winter tour to Hveravellir.

B. Extreme winter driving.

C. The thermal pool in Hveravellir, paradise on earth.

D. The Holuhraun eruption 2014-2015.

E. The Laugavegur hike.

E

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Safety is key

Monument for an Israeli adventurer in Iceland Text and photos by Pieter Bliek

T

he Laugavegur is known as one of the most scenic walking routes in the world. It’s a challenging journey through fairy tale landscapes. Due to the volcanic activity the earth gurgles, bubbles and sizzles everywhere along the hot springs route. Sulphuric vapors paint the snow-covered mountain slope with every color of the rainbow. Between the mysterious fogs and shreds of mist, along the walking path is an isolated heap of stones with a plaque. It reads: ‘In loving memory of Ido Keinan who passed away in a blizzard so close to the safe hut nearby.’

Ido’s monument Trekking in the mountains is fun, as long as the weather is fine. A monument like this makes you realize that a lot de­­­ pends on you, but you also need luck.

Some­­times you can just be in the wrong place at the wrong time. Eleven years ago, while trekking on the Laugavegur,

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a hot springs route in Iceland, Israeli visitor Ido Keinan lost his life due to hypothermia. In the middle of summer, he was surprised by a snowstorm on this popular path that traverses an active volcanic area. Thousands of walkers from across the world commemorate him every year at his stone monument along the breathtaking route, which keeps the adventurer’s memory alive. Ido loved far and adventurous exploits. He traveled to South Africa, Scandinavia, Vietnam, the United States, and skied in the French and Swiss mountains. Ido Keinan’s monument

The Laugavegur is known as one of the most scenic walking routes in the world.

It’s a challenging journey through fairy tale landscapes.

Due to the volcanic activity the earth gurgles, bubbles and sizzles everywhere along the hot springs route.

is a reminder of the vulnerability and finality of human life.

If you don’t like the weather…

An old, Icelandic proverb says that if you don’t like the weather, just wait five minutes, meaning the weather in Iceland is so unpredictable you never really know what to expect. Travelers who plan hiking or outdoor activities of any kind out off the beaten path should be well prepared for swift changes in weather and make sure to check in with others so they know your progress on this popular path. v

Before you venture into the highlands Stay safe and check in regularly with www.safetravel.is for updates and warnings regarding highland routes.

On this website you can leave your travel plan and also download the 112 Iceland safety app on your phone and send regular signals with your whereabouts to the Search and Rescue team of Iceland. And don’t worry, you’re not bothering anyone!

Don’t forget to check the weather forecast regularly, en.vedur.is, and talk to Icelanders you meet on your way, especially proprietors of mountain huts, guest houses, tourist information and shops, as they might have important information to share with you.

NEW

ndly books e i r f l e v a r T ouvenir s t c e f r e p – the celand.

I o t ip r t r f rom you

w w w.forlagid.i s | Bókabúð Forlags in s | F i sk i slóð 39

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Welcome to Slumberland

Awakening a nation Iceland has no shortage of great writers and the literary output by this small island nation is quite astounding. One of its most prolific and well-known writers is Andri SnĂŚr Magnason. Andri has not only made a name for himself as a terrific writer but as a singularly witty social critic who also happens to be a staunch and passionate advocate of Icelandic nature.

by Marvin Lee Dupree Photos: Kristinn MagnĂşsson

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I

f you think you recognize Andri from somewhere, it might be from his spot-on critique of Iceland’s boom years in the well-received documentary Inside Job. Other readers might however know Andri since his books have been trans­­ lat­­ed into about 30 languages. English trans­­lations of some of his work include the children’s book The Story of the Blue Planet, LoveStar and Dreamland: A SelfHelp Manual for a Frightened Nation which have all been well received critically; Love­­ Star won the Philip K. Dick Special Citation back in 2013, while The Story of The Blue Planet won the United Kingdom Literacy Award. Of the three menti­oned, Dreamland was developed into a docu­­mentary which Andri co-directed.

Because Andri has a noticeable witty side and is quite candid in general, I ask him about some of his favorite authors and which writers have influenced him as an author. “Some of the Icelandic ones are Laxness and Svava Jakobsdótir. However, the foreign ones that have influenced me a lot happen to be Bulgakov, Vonnegut, as well as Calvino and then there is the Ice­­landic folklore. I really like the Icelandic folklore, since you might have some semihistorical events like a shipwreck, and then the next story is about a ghost or a monster. Explaining further, Andri says: “We have the landscape of Iceland and then some sort of a parallel universe, covering the island with a thick layer of stories and magic, where the cliff is not just a cliff, it’s an elf church or a troll seeking his beloved and we also have a variety of ghosts, child­ghosts, awakenings and some kind of zom­ bies you could send after your enemy.”

The Sandman awaketh Quite early into my chat with Andri it be­­­ comes apparent that he is a very insightful per­son who can easily appreciate the whimsical side of reality, but he is also a passionate advocate for Icelander’s ma­ jestic nature. Of course one wonders about the genesis of this passion for nature conservation, so I asked Andri how he be­­came so attuned to the Icelandic nature – and of course Andri has a very risible and entertaining tale from his childhood: “I was hijacked as a kid. My parents took me off the football field, they filled up the jeep and we drove into the highlands, into these majestic places. The Highlands were more

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rugged then, they’re still quite rugged, but they were even more rugged back then and very few people had been to these areas (the Highlands) in the 1980s. It was strange since I remember I went to Disneyworld one summer after spending time in the Highlands—and it was all so fake. Because I had been standing out by a real waterfall where one misstep would have cost me my life—and we had gone over a real glacial river; taking quite a lot of risk.”

Apparently, love for the Highlands is in Andri’s blood since he had also been there with his grandparents. He adds: “In the 1930s, my grandmother was one of the people that actually spent her summers in the Highlands and helped discover Fjalla­­ baksleið, the path people would use to go through the Highlands. My other grand­­ parents had a farm on the northeast coast of Iceland, Melrakkaslétta, which just touches the Arctic Circle. There it is possible to sit on a stone and close your eyes, with 15 different species of birds at­tacking you at the same time.” Of course when telling me this, Andri laughs but at the same time one can easily sense his respect for Iceland’s ecosystem and then we also discuss other wildlife in Iceland’s wilderness.

“Some said I was an extremist, but when I looked into the plans I was really shock­ ed. Now, close to 90% of the en­ergy pro­duced in Iceland is used by three alumin­um smelt­ers.”

waves while being shown in various places such as Göteborg and Toronto, and also won the Audience Award at the Cinema Politica.

When we discuss the transition from working as a writer to working in cinema, he gives an amusing answer: “I thought editing, or being at the editing table, was a boring job, quite technical; however, it is almost like writing; your language is the visual material.” After discussing his foray into cinema, he tells me how powerful he thinks music can be in film and lauds the excellent score by Valgeir Sigurðsson, chuckling when he tells me how amazing it is to envision a dam as electronic bass line.

Helter smelter dystopia Dwelling deeper into the contentious issue, I asked Andri what he felt about the classical argument that was used against people who opposed the project at the time, which was something akin to the following: “You have never been there so what does it matter?” Andri answers this argument I bring forth with: “To take a billion dollar loan, destroy a large part of the Icelandic highlands, for an uncertain profit just to make a few hundred jobs is the worst way to create jobs. Even if we dammed every single river in Iceland and sold it to a smelter we could only provide jobs for about 1% of the workforce. So yes, we can make five villages very happy, provide them with stable income for a few years and a huge factory and some engineers would have a lot to do for a while as well—but we would damage and destroy A manual for a dreaming nation something far more valuable for Icelanders living now and for future Over a decade ago, many Icelanders were generations; we would not solve any energy problem in the world. If concerned about the environmental we were to dam every river in Iceland the energy would be about 1% damage that would occur to the second of the electricity consumption in Europe, about as much as Europe’s largest unspoiled wilderness at the time, TV sets use when they are idle.” and the ecosystem if the Kárahnjúka­ Expanding on this issue Andri mentions how Icelanders are cursed virkjun Dam would proceed as planned. with a boom mentality since we went from the herring boom to the The rationale espoused by the ruling military boom, to the dot.com bubble and finally the banking boom. government at the time was that the dam Evidently, Icelanders have experienced one boom-and-bust cycle and smelter would help revitalize the after another because, as Andri wryly notes in the documentary local economies and create employment Inside Job, when affluent Icelanders bought property around the in the eastern part of the country, while globe during the boom, Icelandic newspapers said that certain also halting the depopulation of the pro­­perties were bought but not that the individuals in question had area. Understandably, one of the most bought them with loans from Icelandic banks. Interestingly enough, outspoken critics against the project was Andri also says that Icelanders are somewhat like immigrants in their Andri Snær and his criticism found outlet own country and to back his claim he states that during the 20th in his book Dreamland. century a swift relocation among the populace occurred; from the Unfortunately, the plans went through countryside to the city, which was strange for a nation whose identity despite harsh and fierce criticism, and was rooted first and foremost in being fishermen. On top of this, Andri back in 2009, Dreamland was made into a reiterates a point about research he did: “There were people who documentary that Andri co-directed along wanted to utilize all parts of Iceland, since we theoretically were only with Þorfinnur Guðnason. It was a thematic using 10% of our possible energy output—and when I checked this exploration of the policies pursued in it seemed so nonsensical, almost like a dystopia with a dam or plant despoiling the beautiful and unspoiled on each river. All these areas had been marked for destruction—all nature to enable aluminum industries to the most beautiful places you can imagine.” Some of these areas to obtain cheap energy from Iceland. The film which Andri is referring to specifically include the mountains near traveled the film festival circuit and made Landamannalaugar, Þjórsárver and parts of the Fjallabaksleið.

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The big disconnect Considering what Andri says, it is difficult not to ask him directly if Icelanders, at least some, have not become disconnected from nature. “I think there can be a big disconnect. Even though we live in Iceland one can still be disconnected. Somehow, people imagine that we are surrounded by ponies and such; also, while we catch 2% of all the fish in the world, even though we are one of the greatest exporters of cod, there is still a large percentage of the youth that has never held a cod in their hands.”

Andri also adds a personal anecdote: “Today all the fish we buy in the stores is filleted and so we don’t see what it actually looks like and even the folklores connected to its natural look are disappearing from our memory. As a young boy I was served haddock that was boiled whole so you could see the skin, bones and everything.

I heard the tale of how Satan marked the skin of the haddock with his claws. Today this story would be sort of meaningless as kids never see a haddock with skin on it.”

In fact, Andri connects this to Kára­ hnjúka­­virkjun: “The sinking of a big part of the eastern highlands for producing alum­inum which is just a product that you could argue is necessary to some extent, but essentially it is just a product some­­­­one is trying to create and push; or just create a demand for. So, for example in America there is immense amount of alumin­um squandered.” Elaborating on this further, Andri feels that we partake in this mindless consumption and mentions soda cans as an example; and Iceland has not been left unscathed by this tendency.

“Some said I was an extremist, but when I looked into the plans I was really shocked.

Now, close to 90% of the energy produced in Iceland is used by three aluminum smelt­ers. And when I looked into it I found out they had plans to dam almost every single river in Iceland and sell the power to just any heavy industry in the world, and there seemed to be no ethical standards on who was invited to the party. And they also had plans for every single geothermal

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area in Iceland; the grassroots’ movements have had to fight for natural wonders that should be on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. Now all the activists in Land­vernd and INCA are working to create a national park in the highlands. Björk has been working on it as well, and we think that would be the best long term strategy for the health of Iceland’s economy and people.”

a viable option. He also accentuates the advantages of this tourist boom because as Andri says, some Icelanders can more easily make a living outside of Reykjavík.

What’s so special about Iceland anyway?

When prompted on what makes Iceland unique, and what natural landscapes distinguish it from other countries, Andri has a quick reply. “Iceland is very visually stimulating. It is not necessarily going somewhere—but the way to the place. That is often how I feel when traveling around Iceland, for example when I was doing readings in A nation that is dreaming and Northeast Iceland in December I was amazed by the sky because counting tourists even during the lowest sunlight—there is a very big sky around Some of the most elegant lines written in Iceland. Iceland is half sky, the landscape is half sky. So there is the English language regarding Iceland ground and there is sky, and the sky is always changing— and thus were penned by the poet W.H. Auden who these changes seem to constantly alter the landscape. You drive the wrote an earnest but somewhat sardonic same road twice or a few times and the landscape never looks the appraisal of Iceland that he liked it if only same.” because it enjoyed a scarcity of population. Explaining this in detail to me, Andri gives me a reflective example In other words, Auden like countless of these frequent changes in the landscape depending on the others seemed to be imbued with a wistful season. He reveals that the common myth that Icelanders live half appreci­ation for the vast uninhabited the year in darkness is untrue. Proving his point, Andri tells me that landscapes of this volcanic island which last December he measured the amount of sunlight in Iceland: “I can boast of nature which many consider think potentially I could have played football outdoors from 9:30 AM otherworldly. However, with the substantial to almost 4:00 PM without the sun having shown itself entirely. What increase of tourists, I asked Andri whether Iceland has is this two hour sequence of sunrises during this period.

Sunrise starts about one and half hour before “When I looked you actually see the sun, and so there is this into it I found seemingly never-ending dawn. During this very out they had short day there is also this certain brightness plans to dam that accompanies the one and half or twoalmost every hour sunset, which can be quite dramatic single river in when the sun is storming through the clouds.

Iceland and sell I find the light at this time of year very visually the power to stimulating.” just any heavy industry in Where would you go if you zwere a the world, and tourist? there seemed As for natural landscapes, Andri says the best to be no ethical things he does are summer hikes. “Probably standards on one of the most amazing landscapes I have who was invited seen is going across Skeiðarárjökull glacier, to the party.” which reminds me of the planet Solaris

or not this increase might be problematic for a small nation such as Iceland which has always been praised and singled out for its isolated and majestic wilderness and to which Andri replies: “Ah, the nature porn question.”

This brings us to the fierce debate regarding nature passes. “The idea of a nature pass, or somebody policing us if we leave the city, I thought that was a bit alienating. However, some sort of a tax or landing fee is totally something that people are most likely willing to pay to support the infrastructure they demand, for example toilets,” says Andri and goes on to tell me a brief musing from Auden. “Icelanders were poor in dignity but he wondered if we could become rich without becoming vulgar, so that is the constant curse of Auden. We could not become bankers without becoming vulgar.” And because of the boom in tourism, Andri suggests increased infrastructure highlighting our cultural heritage and that a bicycle path along the southern route might also be

from Stanisław Lem’s book Solaris. In the book, Solaris was projecting some images from the minds of those who were observing it. Traveling around this glacier, which is huge, although it is retreating very fast, one goes through something that looks like thin waterslides; a mixture of the water and the blue ice which would vanish into these bluish-black holes—the idea of falling into those swirls is almost like a primal nightmare. Then we would trek through formations that look like black pyramids for three hours and finally come across something that looks like a highway. It was really bizarre; what used to be holes full of sand, the snow went and left a forest of black pyramids. And you would put your ears to a crack in the glacier and hear the most amazing sounds, this deep bass of gurgling water which was deep, deep down in the glacier,” Andri then ends his thought with a contemplative point: “You can go almost anywhere and find a favorite place; most Icelanders have a favorite place and it’s difficult to pick just one.”

Experience Iceland or deconstructing myths Besides the Icelandic nature, Reykjavík has so much to offer but Andri feels like tourists are missing out on a genuine Icelandic experience, especially if they only visit Reykjavik’s center in between their nature tours. “Every time you buy a stuffed puffin, an angel falls down and splatters an elf,” Andri claims, which makes me burst out in laughter. Andri continues in the same vein with a jocular but earnest laughter: “I think there is a lot of space in the suburbs for tourists. I think we should create destinations in Grafarholt and Breiðholt, and especially in Lindarhverfið in Kópavogur. People should go there and look at how Icelanders really live, because we don’t live in cute wooden houses. We live in suburbia. So, just take a walk in the suburbs on a nice summer day and get a hotdog at one of the ‘sjoppas’ that are still going strong, experience the real life of an Icelander.” v

the maritime museum

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Choose a card that suits your stay: 24, 48 or 72 hours

the art museum

thermal pools #reykjavikloves

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WOW tips

How not to irritate an Icelander

Ok,

so you’ve got the cheap flight ticket to Iceland and now it’s time to explore this volcanic island. Please pay attention to the unwritten, although very serious, rules of etiquette so you won’t get the angry stares (Icelanders will rarely get in your face) or gross out your hosts.

Photos: Thinkstockphotos.com

1. Do your business in the WC We apologize in advance for the lack of toilets at busy destinations around the country but that does not give travelers permission to do their business wherever they want, leaving it for others to step in or clean up later. Plan your travels and stops in accordance to the availability of facilities and be aware that there can be a long road between.

If you know you’ll have to stay outside “accommo­­­dating areas” bring a shovel, dig a hole and the cover that s**t up!

2. Shower before dipping into the pool There’s a sign at each and every pool in Iceland telling guests to shower and soap up, without bathing suits, before going into the pool.

Icelanders are used to this and they are not shy within the confines of the showering area.

There’s no reason for travelers to feel em­­barr­ ass­ed about nudity in this situation. The surefire way to become embarrassed though is when the bath warden catches you not washing properly and orders you to do a better job. Now that’s embarrassing!

3. Don’t bathe naked We’re not shy about nudity while we shower in single sex shower rooms but don’t mistake that for permission to go without swimwear into the pools. You will be hauled out of there in no time!

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4. Don’t park your car on the road Icelanders We know the scenery is trust you lovely but please refrain to be smart from stopping your car when you on the shoulders of the travel in their narrow roads to enjoy it or country. take photos, especially if you’re hunting for northern lights during the dark winter months. Find a road leading off the main road or a resting place and stop there instead of putting yourself and other travelers at risk.

5. Be careful Nothing irritates an Icelander more than tourists who don’t play it safe. Playing it safe means not going too close to a cliff’s edge or a hot spring even if there are no warning signs, not venturing onto the highlands (the F roads) on a car without 4wd and without provisions or decent clothes, walking onto glaciers by yourself or taking a dip in the freezing glacial lakes. Icelanders trust you to be smart when you travel in their country and they don’t like warning signs spoiling the view.

6. Don’t be too cheap There’s nothing wrong with being frugal but Icelanders get irritated when travelers sleep in their cars by the side of the road, or in driveways or parking lots, instead of paying a little fee at a camping site—besides, it’s illegal to camp out in an area or town that has a camp site available.

This also has a lot to do with tip number 1. v

ENNEMM / SÍA / NM69061

Spectacular Whale Exhibition

UR

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“Power and grace” This is a new exhibition. Not intimidatingly big or scientific, it gives a vivid, unforgettable realisation of the power, grace and magnificence of these huge sea-creatures.

ISL ÓÐ

Come and see full-scale models of the 23 whale species that have been found off Iceland’s coastal waters. Walk amongst life-size models, check out the interactive media and explore these majestic creatures in our family-friendly exhibition.

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Walk Amongst the Giants

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WELCOME TO OUR CAFÉ | GET A SOUVENIR IN OUR GIFT SHOP | BOOK A WHALE WATCHING TOUR Fiskislóð 23-25 | Reykjavík | Tel. +354 571 0077 | Open every day 9 am – 7 pm | www.whalesoficeland.is

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Promotion

The Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20 a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: info@lebowskibar.is www.lebowskibar.is

Lebowski Bar

The Reykjavik venue that rocks!

From the entrepreneurs that brought you Café Oliver and Vega­mot, comes Lebowski Bar. You can take a quick guess where the name and inspiration comes from and even if you didn’t like the infamous 1998 movie we are cert­ain you will love this bar.

J

ust walking into this retro American bar puts a smile on your face and the mood is very 1960’s. You can hang out at the old fashioned porch and imagine you are in a real action movie. They don’t make bars like that anymore … oh wait they do, this one! Four big screens adorn the walls, so it’s also a great place to hang out when there are big events and sporting high­lights to be seen. And there’s also an “outside” area deco­­rated in a zappy Miami­-sunshine yellow that will cheer even the dullest of days.

Dine and jive Lebowski Bar really captures the diner style with cosy booths and a fabulous jukebox containing over 1,600 songs guaranteed to get those hips

swaying. If that’s not enough there’s a DJ on every night of the week so you won’t feel the pressure of select­ing all the music by yourself. The menus are the biggest in Iceland … no literally! Their phy­­sical dimensions are huge! Doesn’t everyone say that size really does matter?

Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarn­aise sauce option and succulent beef ten­ der­loin. If that’s not enough, choose from one of the 12 kinds of milkshakes to go with it.

to a new level, offering an astounding 18 varieties of White Russian, along with an extensive bar list.

Bowling at the bar

“Careful man, there’s a beverage here!”

The real icing on the Le­bowski cake, however, is the bar’s gen­u­­ine bowling lane – it’s a classic. How many bars have a bowling lane? In Iceland, not many, unless you count the bars at actual bowling alleys that certainly don’t have the cool vibe of Le­ bowski Bar. DJs and a bass player add to the music mix at weekends and there’s room to dance. Check it out dudes, you’re guaranteed a good time.

Jeffrey ‘the Dude’ Lebowski, the protagonist of the Coen brot­­her’s comedy, is renowned for his penchant for ‘White Russ­ians’ – vodka based cock­­ tails featuring coffee liqueurs and cream or milk.

The Lebowski Bar has taken this now-iconic drink

“Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarn­aise sauce option and succulent beef ten­der­loin.”

Lebowski Bar is my favorite place to hang out at. I love grabbing a good beer, a burger & topping it with a delicious milkshake.

Lebowski Bar plays oldies music which mak­­es the vibe like none other in Reykjavik.

They also have happy hour from 4-7pm and who doesn’t love that!

Bottom line, Lebowski Bar is a great main­stream bar where you can meet fellow travel­ers and have a drink with locals. Practice the word ‘SKÁL’ (Cheers) ~ Inga,@TinyIceland (www.tinyiceland.com)

FIND IT ON FACEBOOK and Twitter Twitter: @LebowskiBar - Instagram: #LebowskiBar - Open 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat

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Promotion

Lavabarinn Lækjargata 6 a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 845 88 68 email: kolla@hresso.is

Lavabarinn

At the center of the scene Lavabarinn represents what Reykjavik is famous for … nightlife! Admit it, you’re not here to collect stamps. You’re here to travel, take photos and brag about it all while sitting at a fantastic lounge drinking delicious cocktails. That’s exactly what the Lavabarinn is all about and the architecture and design is beautiful.

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avabarinn focuses on high quality cock­­­ tails, mixed by highly skilled bar­­­tenders.

The age limit is 25 so leave the kids with the babysitter and dress up. This is no place for sneakers and hoodies.

If you require VIP services, then this is your place. Lavabarinn has a secret room with a secret door that leads up to the top floor; very 007.

The VIP service doesn’t stop there as you’ll have your own private drink elevator, private bathroom and security to hold off all your fans.

After drinking magical cocktails that taste like paradise, why not move down to the lower floor and shake it to some high class music by hot DJ’s from all over the world. It doesn’t hurt that Lavabarinn also has a Funktion-One sound system, the most respected sound system in the world.

Downstairs also has a large make-up room for everyone that chooses to freshen up while in there and seats to cool down after a great dance session.

There’s even an excluded outdoor smoking area for those who are absolutely smokin’ and they can

bring their drinks along for the break. You won’t be disappointed by either the cocktails or the music at Lava­­­barinn. You might want to get in early before the line starts and secure your spot. If it’s nightlife you seek, it’s nightlife you’ll find at Lavabarinn.

“After drinking magical cocktails that taste like paradise, why not move down to the lower floor and shake it to some high class music by hot DJ’s from all over the world.”

Lavabarinn Open: Thursdays from 5pm-1am—Fridays and Saturdays from 5pm-4:30 am. Happy hour Thursdays-Saturdays from 5-10pm. That’s perfect.

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Promotion

The English Pub Austurstræti 12 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 0400 Mobile: +354 697 9003 www.enskibarinn.is

Save water, drink beer!

For years, Iceland has enjoyed a diverse selection of restaurants and often sophisticated bars. However, one tiny grumble occasionally surfaced from the country’s Anglophiles – simply that there was no proper “pub”.

A

nd so the English Pub was born.

From modest beginnings it has built a hearty reputation, seeking out, with the advice and guidance of its de­­­di­­­cat­­ed cust­omers, the finest ale available to mankind. Today it offers its enthusiastic cli­­­entele the chance to sample 50 beers from around the world, as well as a stagg­­­er­­ ing 15 Icelandic brands.

Whisky galore Not content to rest on its laurels, the English Pub has ventured north of its virtual border and also offers the finest selection of whiskies anywhere in the country. The choice of some 60 malts include many of Scotland’s finest, ensuring that

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WOW Power to the people

numerous Ice­­landers and worldly travelers make the pil­­­grim­­age to the pub’s humble door. Located at the very heart of down­­town Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

at­­mos­­­­phere and for anyone feeling lucky, there is the Wheel of Fortune. Regulars like nothing more than to spin the wheel and chance a “Sorry” or pre­­­fer­­ably win what used to be call­­ed a Yard of Ale. These days, it’s ine­vitably known as a meter of beer, but the winners don’t seem to min

A sporting chance Live sporting coverage is amply catered for, with a choice of three big screens and TVs. In­­side the pub there is room for up to 150 people, and an out­­­door terrace can accommodate plenty more on those balmy Ice­­landic evenings! Whether it is foot­­ball (Premier and Champions League), rugby or golf, there are always special offers when live events are being broadcast. Live music every night adds to the

“Located at the very heart of down­­town Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photo­­­ graphs – like an album of the city’s hist­­ory just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.”

Promotion

Vegamót Vegamótastíg 4 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 3040 email: vegamot@vegamot .is www.vegamot .is

Very nice Vegamót

The all-in-one restaurant This elegant but casual two floor restaurant is located in the heart of Reykja­vík on Vega­­mótastígur, close to Lauga­­­­vegur.

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he restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonder­ful quality of being an all-in-one, rest­aurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave!

Here the decor is rich on the Medi­­­terr­­ anean side and yet elegant with a jazzy ambiance.

In the summertime tables are moved outside to the shelt­er­ed terrace, probably one of the hottest

places in Iceland during those short summer months. This place is famous for their ‘fresh fish of the day’, served all day from lunch hours. It has very rea­­sonable prices for quality, portions and presenta­ tion and guests can choose from a wide variety of decadent dess­erts – if they make it that far.

Try their excellent selection of good beers. Every day there is a special offer on bottled beers worth a taste.

“The restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonder­ful quality of being an all-in-one, rest­aurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave!”

Issue four 59

Promotion

Hressingarskálinn Austurstræti 20 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 561 2240 facebook.com/hressingarskalinn

Coffee house, restaurant & night club Hressingarskálinn is a warm place with plenty of seating and a great loca­­tion in down­ town Reykjavik. It’s one of the few places that open at 9 AM to serve breakfast for hungry travelers or locals. Hressingarskálinn is a big part of Reykja­vík’s history; the house was built in 1802 and the restaurant was established in 1932. The house has hosted Hress­ingarskálinn since 1932.

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itting down for a coffee has a magnetic effect on Iceland’s most talented art­­­ ists and writers. Smokers can have a seat on a heated patio with service all day. Over the summer, this place really comes alive. The yard is completely sheltered from the wind, allowing you to enjoy food and beverages in the bright sunlight. Thursday to Sunday is usually packed with people from all over

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the world. It’s a great place to meet strangers for some interesting story sharing. Live bands play on Fridays and Sat­urdays, guaranteeing a crowd before all the popular DJ’s hit the floor with party tunes from 01:00-04:30 AM. The menu consists of great selections and offers everything from breakfast to a fantastic dinner. Hressingarskálinn offers Icelandic food for curious visitors. You can always try the traditional Icelandic meat soup. If

not, there’s lamb or the fish stew – You won’t be disappointed. Hress­­­ingar­­­skálinn is stylish and old at the same time, a history well preserved.

Check out Hress­­­ingar­skálinn for great prices and awesome fun!

“The menu consists of great sel­­ect­­ions and offers every­thing from breakfast to a fantastic dinner.”

Promotion

Sakebarinn Laugavegur 2 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 777 3311 www.facebook.com/Sakebarinn

The one and only choice for Sushi & Sticks …so you can check it off your bucket list Located in a loft on Laugavegur, the main shopping street, in one of Iceland’s old­est buildings (1886) is a great new restaurant with a great view and an amazing at­mosphere called Sakebarinn. In its beautiful location, surrounded by windows that look down on Austurstræti, (an extension of Laugavegur leading to the Old Town) and up Skólavörðustígur (known for its cafés, local boutiques and art shops with native works), Sakebarinn lies in the very heart of downtown Reykjavík. In the winter you can see the Northern Lights from the balcony and in the summer, the amazing summer sunsets over the harbor.

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he owners of Sakebarinn have a keen interest for the arts and crafts and a wealth of creative assets to play with.

Although Sake­­barinn has a strong foundation in pure Japanese cuisine the current style of the restaurant proves that the owners are not afraid to break some of the rules. To them sushi is meant to be an art form.

Along with its handcrafted sushi, Sakebarinn also offers a sel­­ection of sticks and other meat cours­­es, featuring whale and horse and anything that’s fresh and interesting that day. Why live on an island in the middle of the Atlantic if you’re not going take advantage of the natural fauna? Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and with a little some­­thing for

everyone. There’s love on every plate – You will feel it with each taste.

It’s no accident that the place is named Sake­­bar­­ inn. It does feature the country’s largest sel­­ection of sake and a shot before a meal can truly enhance the feel of real Japanese dining. It comes in a sur­­prising range of flavors too, everything from really girly fruit sake to the fire spewing alcohol con­­tent of some of the more butch types; potato sake, warm and cold sake and Japanese plum wine. And then of course are the bottles that didn’t make it on to the menu because no one could read the labels and therefore no one knows what they are. Mystery sake! Sakebarinn is a place born to show­­case the talents the staff have collected over the years work­­ing at their first Sushi restau­­rant call­­ed Sushibarinn, which is located on the first

floor in the same house. A year and a wild ride later, this sushi family has in­­corporated a bunch of new and talented people with some great new recipes and skills they didn’t know they had and didn’t even know existed. The walls are hand painted by them, the wine selected by them, the menu is designed by them and the place is loved by them. They also love to present food so their clients become part of their love for sushi.

The look on your face is what they are aiming for, the look of enjoyment.

“Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and a little some­­thing for everyone.”

Sakebarinn Opening hours: Mon-Sun 5:00 PM – 00:00 Issue four 61

Promotion

Tíu dropar Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes Laugavegur 27 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 9380

Tíu dropar / Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes Tíu dropar (Ten Drops) is a café located in the cellar of Lauga­veg­ur 27. This is one of the oldest cafés in Iceland and for the last 30 years to this very day they serve freshly baked pancakes and waffles á la the grandmothers of Iceland, with lots of whipped cream and Icelandic jam.

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en Drops is also known for its home­­ made cakes, baked from scratch ac­­cord­ing to old re­­­cip­­­es, and of course, their hot cocoa, known by many of their guests as ‘The Only Real Hot Cocoa on Earth’. If you’re not in the mood for old fashioned Icelandic good­ies you can choose from an assortment of light dishes, tea, wines and beer.

We recommend the French meat soup, a pop­­ular dish and another old favorite.

Where did the café go?

Don’t be surprised if you can’t find the café after 18:00. Some­­thing happens around that time that trans­­­­forms this little cellar into a French wine room known as Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes or the Castle of the Ten Drops. This is a lovely place to sit and enjoy good win­­es along with cheese, ham or

other light dishes for as little as 500 ISK a plate, and don’t worry, the coffee, co­coa and pancakes are still there! Lovely French music sets the mood and the ambiance is perfect for a deep conversation.

Guests want­­­ing to break out in song can have their turn after 22:00 on the weekends, as long as they can find some­­one to play the antique piano given to the café’s owner, David Bensow, by a regular.

Choose your wine Guests can have their say on the wine list of Le Cha­te­aux des Dix Gouttes and David will make special orders to fulfill their wish­es. In fact, he wel­­comes any sug­gestions making the wine list one of the more, well-endowed in Reykjavík. He’s especially interested in serving good Port to his clientele.

Check out the ten drops twitt­er feed and find both café and wine room on Facebook.

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Intimate climate The little wine room and café seat only 40 guests and the mood is set in the early evening. It’s safe to say this is just the kind of place that was missing from the brimm­­­ing Icelandic bar and café scene - a perfect sett­ing for a small group of friends to reminisce over the good old days or for a first date.

Be sure to taste David’s “wine of the week” or let his fair beer prices amaze you.

“Don’t be surprised if you can’t find the café after 18:00. Some­­thing happens around that time that trans­­forms this little cellar into a French wine room known as Le Chateaux Des dix Gouttes or the Castle of the Ten Drops.”

Promotion

Kol Restaurant Skólavörðustígur 40 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 7474 www. kolrestaurant .is

Cocktails and feel good food at Kol Restaurant Be prepared for a memorable night out at Kol Restaurant.

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ituated at Skólavörðustígur 40 in Reykja­­­­­­vík, Kol Restaurant’s design con­­­­­cept is a mixture of warm modern Icelandic feel with international touc­­ h­­es and the furniture of designer Tom Dixon playing the central role. The rest­­­­­­­­aur­­ant is on two floors with an open kitchen and a mighty bar. Both floors are divided into spac­­ es with cozy leather couches and a variety of diff­­­er­­ ent table settings. Kol Restaurant centers on the bar where the country’s best cocktail bar­­tenders

serve craft cocktails from the best ingredients available and offer an ambitious cocktail list to begin and complete the dining experience.

The selection is feel good comfort food with a twist on classic cuisine. The menu offers a variety of finger food, salads, fish, steaks and dess­­ erts. The head chefs, Einar Hjaltason and Kári Þor­­­­­steinsson, have over 20 years of ex­­­perience at Reykjavik’s best restaurants as well as work ex­­­perience in several known restaurants in London, for example Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons, Dabbous,

Noma, 28/50 and Texture. Don’t miss out on this brand new gem on the Reykjavik restaurant scene.

This is a great place to begin a fun evening.

“Kol Restaurant cent­­ers on the bar where the coun­try’s best cock­­tail bar­­tend­­ers serve craft cocktails from the best in­­ gredi­ents available and offer an ambi­­ tious cocktail list to begin and com­­plete the dining exper­­ience.”

Kol Restaurant Open: Monday-Friday 11:30-23:00 / Saturday-Sunday 17:30-23:00 Issue four 63

Promotion

Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is

When in Iceland, go Danish!

You know that Iceland used to be a Danish colony, right? Even though inde­­pend­ence from the Danish Crown was necessary, Icelanders still celebrate every­thing Danish, so don’t expect to meet a big Danish crowd at The Danish Pub, they are all Icelanders just act­ing like they’re Danish. Really!

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his bar has made a name for itself in the Reykjavik social scene and is known locally as Den Danske Kro (we all just want a reason to speak Danish in public). This popular downtown venue serves a remarkable selection of beers in­cluding the famous Danish white beers, the darker more malt brews and of course the tra­­ditional and almost obligatory Tuborg and Carls­­ berg. If you come during the Christmas sea­­son you can taste some of the renowned Christ­­­mas brews, very popular in demand. Just ask for Julebryg (“you-le-bree”).

within the pub – an off-the­-wall design in its most literal sense!

Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some darts, try the custom­ary Gammel Dansk bitt­ers or catch some live football. Watch the world go by on the outside terrace and have a taste of the tra­­ ditional smørre­brød (fantastic open sand­­­wiches).

You can pre-order these delicious snacks for larger groups.

Does this sound too tranquil?

Do as the Danes do

The Danish Pub is nothing if not a place to party.

The at­­mos­­phere is easy going and you can choose from a variety of shots and even cocktails if you’re not in the mood for a beer (Does that ever happen?).

The owners of the Danish Pub strive to create the true Danish atmos­phere known among the Danes (and Danish-prone Ice­­landers) as “hyggeligt”. If you truly are Danish this can be your “home away from home”. And in this spirit, check out the “house”

Reminder: If you thought you were in for a quiet night guess again, The Danish Pub features live music every night with special appearances and unad­­vertised happenings on Wednesdays, Fridays

Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 14:00 – 01:00 and Fri-Sat 14:00 – 05:00 64

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and Saturdays. Put your musical knowledge to the test at the Wednesday night pop-quiz; the prizes will surprise you.

Best local pub in Reykjavík Wherever you‘re from you’ll want to have a great time while vis­iting Reykjavík. The people of Reykja­ vík do anyway, so they flock to The Danish Pub for a beer “en øl” dur­­ing the Happy Hour every day from 16-19. The place is crowded and you’re guaran­­teed to meet some fun, “lee glaath” people.

“Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some darts, try the custom­ary Gammel Dansk bitt­ers or catch some live football. Watch the world go by on the outside terrace and have a taste of the traditional smørre­brød (fantastic open sandwiches).”

Promotion

Kaldi Bar Laugavegur 20 b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.facebook.com/KaldiBarCafe

A breath of fresh air

Cool as Kaldi Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars.

An oasis in central Reykjavík.

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t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos­­­phere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, there’s a great outside seating area in a cozy backyard. Known for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottl­es, Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew.

Drop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local.

“Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos­­­phere in a rustic setting.”

Opening Hours Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 noon - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 noon - very late / Price list Beer on draft 0.5 – 1,100 IKR Glass of vine – 1,200 IKR / Happy hour 16:00-19:00 / Beer on draft 0.5 – 650 IKR / Glass of vine – 650 IKR Issue four 65

Promotion

Kopar Restaurant Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant .is / info@koparrestaurant .is

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor Kopar Restaurant is situated by Reykjavik‘s romantic harbor, in one of the old green fisherman‘s huts.

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he fishing industry still thrives in Reykja­­­ vik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the morning, fishermen go out to sea and return later with their catch of the day.

As you stand on the pier you can feel the history of Reykjavik and watch the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and young kids with their rods trying their luck off the pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere of the old harbor is all part of the experience when

you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans.

They are especially proud of their crab soup, made with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the fruit of the ocean.

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She pre­­­ pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, in­­tent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere, delicious food and the best view in town. When visiting Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is a must.

“Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She prepares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.”

Kopar Restaurant

Opening hours - Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 - Fridays from 11:30-23:30 - Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 - Sundays from 18:00-22:30 66

WOW Power to the people

A delicious journey

LAEK-1319_148x210.pdf

Amtmannsstíg 1 28.1.2015 09:33 1 • 101 Reykjavík • +345 561 3303 • www.torfan.is

Issue four 67

Promotion

American Bar Austurstræti 8-10 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9999 Mobile: +354 697 9003 Find us on Facebook/AmericanBarIceland

American Bar American Bar captures the American spirit; land of the free, home of the brave with a unique selection of beer and a simple yet delicious menu. American Bar is a must-visit when in Reykjavik.

Beer selection second to none With more than 50 different kinds of beer you are sure to find the beer that suits your taste. There’s beer made in the Hawaiian Islands as well as beer made from the famous Icelandic water.

Location and experience Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

Live music, live sport and the Wheel of Fortune Live music every night brings the right atmosphere and if you want to shake it up a bit you can hit the

dance floor on weekends and dance into the crazy Reykjavik night. If you are feeling lucky you can always spin the Wheel of Fortune.

Must see that game in the English PL or the Champions League? You will be well taken care of at the American Bar. HD-screens and TVs in every corner make sure that you won’t miss one second of your favorite sport.

is simple, yet delicious. The hamburgers, ribs and chicken wings are well-known to the locals for being unique and tasty.

Lunch or dinner, live music or dancing, beer or cocktails; the American Bar has it all and is truly worth the visit!

Life is short—Drink early!

Inside and out—all day long With more than 100 seats inside and a great outdoor area on the sunny side (for those wonderful sunny Icelandic summer days) you will always find a seat at a good table. The outside area is truly remarkable, overlooking Dómkirkjan Cathedral and Alþingi (Parliament House). When you think of central Reykjavik this is it! The menu

Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

American Bar Open: Mondays to Thursday from 11:00 am - 1:00 am - Fri - Sat: 11:00 am - 4:30 am - Sun: 11:00 am - 1:00 am

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Amazing 7 course menu

A unique Icelandic Feast Starts with a shot of the Icelandic national spirit “Brennivín“ Puffin – Smoked puffin with blueberries, croutons, goat cheese, beetroot Minke whale – Minke whale with tataki Arctic charr – “Torched“ arctic charr with parsnip purée, fennel, dill mayo Lobster – Lobster cigar with chorizo, dates, chili jam Reindeer – Reindeer slider with blue cheese, portobello, steamed bun Free range icelandic lamb – Lamb with coriander, pickled red cabbage, fennel, butternut squash purée, chimichurri And to end on a high note ...

Icelandic Skyr – Skyr panna cotta with raspberry sorbet, white chocolate crumble, passion foam, dulche de leche

Our kitchen is open 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu.

17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.

7.590 kr.

Sushi Samba Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík Tel 568 6600 • sushisamba.is

taste the best of iceland... ... in one amazing meal icelandic gourmet feast Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic spirit Brennívín Followed by seven delicious tapas

late night dining Our kitchen is open until 23:30 on weekdays and 01:00 on weekends

Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa Lobster tails baked in garlic Pan-fried line caught blue ling with lobster-sauce Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina Minke Whale with cranberry & malt-sauce White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion fruit coulis

7.590 kr.

RESTAURANT- BAR Vesturgötu 3B | 101 Reykjavík | Tel. 551 2344 | www.tapas.is Issue four 69

Just a moment…

We love getting WOW moments from our guests.

Please keep them coming!

Have you ever gotten such an awesome photo that you think the world deserves to see it? We love it when you share, and those who share a WOW moment have a chance to win round-trip tickets with WOW air, which means another great chance for a WOW moment.

Send in your WOW moment through moments.wow.is or moments.wowiceland.co.uk and you could be one of those happy snappers.

Here are some WOW moments so you can check out the competition. Don’t forget – if you live at any of WOW air’s destinations you could send in a WOW moment from your hometown to win tickets to our hometown.

most Had the y in lida o h g in amaz air! to WOW or thanks Ap ta o g A Iceland y Sent b

Visiting Q Windso ueen Elizabeth r Castle . So bea ’s weekend ho Sent by me at u Christo pher Ch tiful! #Wow! ern

w The moment I sa t fell Godafoss, I jus silence, into complete l so fee lf se my g tin let d to small compare ing the overwhelm e experience of th ible! waterfall. Incred r Hsieh Sent by Jennife

Landma nn a beauti alaugar is suc h ful area . When look at you these su rround it’s like ing lo A real W oking at a pain s ting.

OW mo ment.

Sent by Chevali er

So colorful after doing the Color Run in Barcelona, June 7. So much fun!

Sent by Arndís Björnsdóttir

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#

Let us tag along @ us to your travelgrams with @wowair and tag your awesome photos with #wowair or #wowmoment.

WOW Power to the people

Midnig ht Sent by rainbow Ciro Ch iaiese

e c r u o s A ealth h f o O N LY*

isk.

600 TS ADUL 130 isk.

CHILDREN

Th er m al sw im m in g po ol s

Hot t ubs and jacuzzi

Sa un as , steambat hs an d sh ow ers

Se ve n lo ca t io ns

Op en earl y un t il la te

Thermal hermal pools and b baths in n Reykjavik are a so source of health, relaxation and pureness.

All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot pots with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F).

Issue four 71

Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.spacity.is

*Admission January 2014 . Price is subject bj t tto change h

Reykjavik's Thermal Pools

Snow in August?

Walking on thick ice More and more tourists are heading out to experience the glaciers, and traversing them by foot is one of the ways.

But that way needs a safe and sensible approach.

Text and photos by Gunnlaugur Rögnvaldsson

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ative to the area, Tómas Birgir Magnússon is a country boy turned glacier guide. Tómas works for Arcanum Glacier Tours on Sólheimajökull glaci­ er which is a part of Mýrdalsjökull Glacier, the fourth largest glacier in Iceland. Tómas lives with his wife and three kids on a farm only 20 km away from the glacier on the south coast of Iceland and has had lots of experience on the glacier from a young age.

Today he practically works on his old play­­ ground which features ice estimated to be 400-600 years old.

Tómas Birgir Magnússon has many years of experience on Sólheimajökull glacier.

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Easily accessible Mýrdalsjökull is a 600 square kilometer glacier with ice an average thickness of 200-250 meters. In Sólheimajökull, the ice thickness is close to 200 meters.

“There have been a lot of changes in the last 15 years, as 900 meters of ice have evaporated.

Higher temper­ atures, less snow, and more rain is the reason.”

Seeing a group of people walking on Sólheimajökull is a breathtaking sight, and shows how small we are in comparison to nature.

Sólheimajökull Glacier is much smaller in size, stands lower and receives its ice from the bigger glacier (Mýrdalsjökull), as ice is con­­stantly moving downwards from the ice cap. When snow falls on Mýrdalsjökull, eventu­­­ally followed by more snow on top of that, little by little, the air is pressed out and the snow turns into ice. This process takes 4-6 years in Iceland’s climate. This is how glaciers are created and maintained by nature.

According to Tómas, Arcanum, Artic Ad­­ ventur­­es and Icelandic Mountain Guides are the largest companies organizing trips to Sólheimajökull glacier. It is easy to get to their base which is only 4 km from Route 1 via an asphalt road. From there you walk for 20-30 minutes before reaching the ice itself. You begin by getting the right safety equipment and assistance from

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experienced guides. A glacial walk will take around 3 hours, which includes up to 2 hours on the ice.

What is a normal walking tour on the glacier like?

“These walks are fairly easy and people get to see a lot of things, but first we explain how to use the crampons and ice axe and cover basic safety measures. We choose the routes according to how experienced people in the groups are and take them to the most interesting features of the glaci­­er, such as ice caves and various ice and water formations. The glacier is always crawl­­ing downwards into the valley. The movement opens up crevasses, and during summer there is a lot of water running down in places. The water digs holes in the ice and some­times make small ice caves and tunnels.”

What to look out for on the glacier?

“It is vital to have knowledge on how a glaci­er behaves, as they are always moving a little bit and you have to understand what’s going on. There are some dangerous places on Sólheimajökull you need to avoid. You have to respect the glacier.

Crevasses can be dangerous, and in winter, snow can hide difficult parts, making the ice very slippery, even when it looks breath­­ takingly blue and beautiful. There are many things to consider on a glacier.”

A glacier for a playground Raised on a farm called Skógar, by the water­­­fall Skógafoss, only 11 km from the glacier, Tómas has been on Sólheimajökull glacier countless times. Tómas, who is now 41 years old, lived in Reykjavik for a while, but five years ago he came back to live on Iceland’s south coast, and the glacier got to him again.

“I started guiding on Sólheimajökull, as this had been an old dream of mine. As a young boy I did a lot of mountain hiking and a bit of ice climbing too. This was the only playground I had and I love having fun in nature. I had to try it again,” says Tómas about his job and experience of the glacier. People from all over the world visit Sólheimajökull glacier and there has been a noticeable increase in people visiting from Asian countries such as Singapore, Taiwan and Hong Kong, according to Tómas. “This venue may offer the only chance for a lot of people to experience gett­­ing on ice and seeing snow. When it‘s the first time it makes a strong impact.

Standing on a 200 meter thick floor of ice is a special feeling for people,” says Tómas.

On thinner ice But Sólheimajökull glacier has a little issue these days. The ice is melting quite fast and last year the glacier decreased by 70 meters in the valley leading to it.

“There have been a lot of changes in the last 15 years, as 900 meters of ice have evaporated. Higher temperatures, less snow, and more rain is the reason. There has been less snow each year on Mýr­dals­jökull glacier and therefore less ice is coming

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down­­ward to Sólheimajökull glacier which was 44 square kilometers 15 years ago and has decreased quite a bit, by 1-2 square kilometers I would guess,” says Tómas who, despite this trend is not surprised.

“It is interesting to see, geologically. If you look back in time, between the years 13001800 the glacier was growing, but later, be­­tween 1920 -1970, it was decreasing.

From 1970-1990, the glacier grew year by year. So changes seem to come in periods.

When I was growing up, there was snow more or less all winter, now it only snows once in a while.”

Shaping the land “We try to educate people about the glacier

A

A. Before reaching the glacier, there is a 20-30 minute walk.

B. Using a helmet is one of the safety features, along with using an ice axe and crampons.

C. Based on his vast experience, Tómas educates people about Sólheimajökull glacier during the walks.

D. Final preparations before going on the ice.

It is important to follow the guide’s instructions.

B

are also curious about our culture and there is always good time to chat before reaching the ice. Also the fact we have Mt. Katla, a volcano underneath the ice cap of Mýrdalsjökull is interesting for many. A couple of times a year you may experience a lot of movement, feel and hear the glacier rumbling. And that makes the heart beat faster. It can be a little scary…”

Given the fact that Tómas is brought up in the south it is a good idea to end by asking him what he recommends people to look out for in his home area.

“A visit to the Skógafoss waterfall is a classic, also people enjoy the Selja­­­lands­­ foss waterfall and the old Selja­­­valla­­­laug

C

D

and what has been happening to it over time. It’s a great place to see how the glacier has affected the landscape. People find it interesting. Some think that global warming is eliminating the glaciers, but this idea has gone back and forth over time. After the last ice age, scientists think that Iceland was without glaciers for a few thous­and years.

“Sólheimajökull is a great place to see the dynamics of nature and how things have changed. I tend to take this landscape for granted, so it’s a good feeling for me to see how other people appreciate it. People

“This venue may offer the only chance for a lot of people to ex­­­peri­­ ence gett­­ing on ice and seeing snow.

When it‘s the first time it makes a strong impact.

Standing on a 200 meter thick floor of ice is a special feeling for people.”

pool. On the black beach on Sólheima­­sand­­ ur you’ll find an old DC 3 airplane stuck in the sand. Then there is a little pearl called Nauthúsagil by the farm Stóra Mörk on the way to Þórsmörk. It is not well-known, and therefore less crowded than many places.

Close to Seljalandsfoss there’s another waterfall called Gljúfrabúi and east of Skógar a waterfall called Kvernufoss. This whole area is very colorful and you can see a lot in just a 15-20 km radius,” says Tómas of the surroundings close to where he was brought up. v

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Hveravellir

Heaven in the highlands Hveravellir has been called an oasis in the center of Iceland and Gunnar Guðjónsson is in charge of matters in the area.

Text and photos by Gunnlaugur Rögnvaldsson

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o get to Hveravellir you need to travel the mountain road Kjölur, a 200 km road connecting north and south Iceland. Due to its remote location, it really is “the road less travelled.” At Hveravellir you will find a geothermal area, a small pool and in­teresting walking routes which are not crowded with tourists. Hence, it is a heav­enly place for those who love peaceful walks in nature.

By bus, car or bike Hveravellir is just 92 km from the renown­ ed Gullfoss waterfall. The least challenging way to get to there is by one of the schedul­ ed buses going from both Akureyri and Reykjavík every morning. Each year the area is open from June to September 20th.

Dur­ing the winter you can only get there with experienced travel companies, as speci­al transport is needed to deal with the heavy snow and changeable weather conditions.

Even during the summer, a good 4x4 car is advisable for those who want to travel in their own car, according to Gunnar Guð­­jónsson, who manages the facilities at Hvera­­vellir. He has been in tourism for a long time, and has been in charge at Hvera­­vellir since 2008 after a long spell working on Langjökull glacier with a snow­­mobile rental.

“With the buses arriving from Reykjavik and Akureyri each day, things can get pretty busy. While those traveling by bus come here for a quick stop, we also get people who want to spend more time, stay­ ing overnight or for some days. Sometimes

Öskurhóll is a powerful steam vent and very popular among photographers.

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we have up to 100 tents at the campsite,” says Gunnar. And occasionally tourists on bicycles take on the rough Kjölur road, and that is a true challenge. “It is amazing how many people brave the elements and come here on bicycles with luggage. It can be windy and many have been exhausted when they arrive, ending up staying three nights instead of one, to recuperate. Some­­ times people passing in cars or buses have picked up bicycle riders who have little energy left. Generally people on bicycl­­es know what they are doing, but sometimes people in rental cars are not as properly prepared or know­­ledgeable,” says Gunnar.

At Hveravellir you will find a geothermal area, a small pool and in­teresting walking routes which are not crowded with tourists.

The view from the geothermal area at Hveravellir which is full of hot springs and steam vents.

The road to meditation “Many people are shocked when they drive the Kjölur mountain road. It is very rough in places. Last autumn three Buddha monks in a rental car thought it would be interesting to drive Kjölur in their small car.

They were a bit rattled when they arrived, but during the night they got to see the northern lights and lights from an eruption, which was in the north of the country. They also sank into a well-earned meditation. A good 4x4 car really is essential to manage the conditions on Kjölur.”

“I believe there are between 35,00040,000 people who come here each year and the majority of them come during

Issue four 77

the summer; I’d say 99% without being too sci­entif­ic about the numbers. Most people come on scheduled buses traveling through the country, stop briefly and use the facilities,” says Gunnar who has a staff of 8-10 people during the busiest time.

Even though most tourists make only a short stop at Hveravellir, for those who wish to use the accommodations, there is space for 45 people in sleeping bags in the house and a large camping site. Also, there’s a restaurant that can serve up to 60 people. “In my view the geothermal area here is one of the most beautiful in Iceland.

The water in the small pool is soft and pleasant. I actually think it would be a good idea to plant pools close to the mountain huts in Iceland. Just drill for water! We also use the geothermal water to heat the houses here,” says Gunnar.

“Hveravellir is like an oasis in the desert; a lot of green grass and water around. Even late August is a good time to visit and by then it’s quieter. There is a chance to see the northern lights late in summer if the weath­er is right and in autumn and winter they are strong here.”

Enjoy the view Gunnar has his views in regards to what people should experience at Hveravellir.

“It is the landscape, the wide open space, and the chance to be alone in nature. You

A

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A. The campsite and a small stream with water from the hot spring area.

B. There are a number of good hiking routes around Hveravellir and this route leads to a volcanic crater and a cave named after a legendary outlaw from the 18th century.

C. The main facility offers sleeping bag accommodation and has a restaurant.

D. In front of the hut is a pool filled with geothermal water from the hot spring area.

E. Gunnar Guðjónsson has been in charge of the Hveravellir area since 2008.

F. The view from the pool includes a vision: Hofsjökull, Iceland’s third largest glacier.

G. The right stuff. If bicycl­ing in the high­­ lands you need the correct equipment.

also have a view of Langjökull glacier. The area is different from most of Europe; it’s something like the moon. I have always been attracted to the highlands and feel a little uncomfortable in Reykjavík at times; there is so much stress. Up here it doesn’t matter what day it is, you just do what needs to be done. I feel good here, even though I’m not doing any yoga,” Gunnar says chuckling.

“There are many routes for walking and very few people around, so that is inte­ resting. The Kerlingafjöll Mountains are close by too, another hidden gem in the highlands. Kerlingafjöll Mountains are a good place for walking and they are only 40 km from Hveravellir. But the most popular walking route close to Hveravellir is going via the old Kjölur road, through Þjófadalir to Hvítárnes (see more on pages 26-30).

It is perhaps the oldest going between the north and south. People went this way in the old days on foot or horseback, after the country was settled. And I believe Hveravellir was used to rest and rejuvenate while passing through the center of Iceland.

“Many places at Hveravellir are con­­ nect­­ed to legendary 18th century outlaws Fjalla-Eyvindur and Halla who hid around here. There is even a cave called Eyvindar­ hellir (Eyvindur’s Cave).”

Gunnar knows a lot about this area and is more than willing to share his knowledge.

“If you walk toward a place called Strýtur, you will find a volcanic crater in Kjalhraun, an 8,500 year old lava field; the crater is enormous. From Þjófadalir, you can walk toward the Langjökull glacier, also to Hengi­ björg and Fagrahlíð and many other places.

There is a vast area to walk for people who seek solitude and quiet space,” says Gunnar.

Welcoming the visitors Travelers from all around the world visit Hveravellir. “Those who stay the longest are most often German and French, and people who take their traveling seriously. We also get a many visitors from Italy and Spain later in the summer. Unlike some, I don’t think Iceland is overcrowded with tourists, but what we need in Iceland are plans for the future: How do we want things to develop and progress and how can we take better care of hot spots which may be in danger of damage? We need to be better organized.

“Tourism has become Iceland’s biggest industry, and the government needs to put more money into it, while money is rolling in from abroad. We truly need to figure out a good future plan for tourism as a whole with experienced people in the business— find solutions as soon as possible. Too much energy goes into arguing about matt­ers, instead of solving the issues.” says Gunnar. v

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THIS IS IT

WELCOME

2015

WHALE WATCHING • HÚSAVÍK • ICELAND

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“A beautifully clear day with a gentle breeze from the north.

Warm, cosy, all in one Gentle Giant insulated suits - brand new and really easy to put on (you don’t even have to take your shoes off). Then out to sea on board the Sylvia for a wonderful and exciting three hours watching humpback whales.…”

“It was a cold foggy evening but after 1 hour of seeing nothing we were literally surrounded by blue whales just a few feet from our boat. We were rushing from one end of the boat to the other. We then went further out and same thing happened with the humpbacks. This trip was spectacular and really enjoyed the hot chocolate and cinnamon rolls on the way back. Highly recommend this adventure.”

“The name of the company, Gentle Giants, says it all! How the “We could not be happier with Humpback Whale surfaces and Gentle Giants. We had a trip to Grimsey Island booked.... We had then submerges again, leaving a great breakfast at Grimsey and its tail to the last and then gently sinking back into the deep with then our island guide drove us around the island to see the sites. only a slight swirl to indicate where it was - pure magic! We The sheer number of puffins we saw were unreal and the scenery sailed on the Sylvia and must was incredible.... On the way back have spent at least an hour in the company of one of these huge they made some time for whale creatures almost right beside us watching and we were lucky to (we saw another one too, not have a humpback surface right quite so close). It didn’t seem beside the boat.... Outstanding bothered by us in the least...” service and this trip was the best part of my visit to Island!”

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Booking: Tel. +354 464 1500 · www.gentlegiants.is · info@gentlegiants.is Issue four 79 HÚSAVÍK

MEMBER OF ICEWHALE – THE ICELANDIC WHALE WATCHING ASSOCIATION

Realm of Vatnajökull

Have an ice day!

In the realm of Vatnajökull you find the real reason why Iceland got its name. The area is dominated

by Vatnajökull glacier which is the largest glacier in the world outside the Arctic regions. You’ll also find some of Iceland’s most popular tourist attractions there such as the spectacular Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Skafta­fell, the jewel in Vatnajokull National Park and Hvannadals­hnúkur, the highest peak in Iceland and a popular hike.

Photos: Stephan Mantler / www.stephanmantler.com

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he Vatnajökull region is filled with contrast, with its black beaches, white glaciers, red volcanoes, green birch forest and blue Atlantic Ocean.

Beauty, serenity and the forces of nature combine to make a visit to the realm of Vatnajökull a never-to-be-forgotten experience.

Wildlife is rich in the realm of Vatnajökull with thousands of migrating birds such as puffins and the arctic tern passing through, especially in the spring and summer. Herds of reindeer are also a common sight and if you’re lucky you might spot a seal at Jökulsárlón or an arctic fox running across the land. You will also find dozens of companies that offer all sorts of activities year round, diverse accommodation and great restaurants with local food.

Adventures “off the beaten track” The realm of Vatnajökull is in southeast Iceland and spans over 200 km of the Ring Road from Lómagnúpur in the west to Hvalnes in the east. It covers the accessible southern side of Vatnajökull National Park and photography enthusiasts find the realm of Vatnajökull particularly delightful as it provides countless magnificent views of glaciers and mountains during the 24-hour daylight in the summertime.

Whether kayaking on Heinaberg Glacial Lagoon in Vatnajökull National Park or exploring Lónsöræfi, one of the many hidden jewels of the Vatnajökull region with its deep, rugged canyons, green valleys and colorful mountains, located in the easternmost area of the region, you will be sure to experience one of Iceland’s most extensive protected areas. Go to www. fallastakkur.is to find out more about tours into this virtually untouched area.

Höfn There is one town in the realm of Vatnajökull, Höfn—a lively fishing town with a population of 1800. Höfn is also famously known as the lobster capital of Iceland and during your visit you can enjoy this precious product, as well as various other local specialties offered by the quality restaurants. Höfn is also a great base for

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exploring the magnificent lands of Vatnajökull National Park. And be sure to drop by at the park’s visitor center in the beautiful historical building, Gamlabúð, by the harbor.

Activity, accommodation and restaurants Much of the activity in the realm of Vatnajökull revolves around the glacier and the surrounding nature. You can choose between glacier walks and ice climbing, a boat tour in a glacial lagoon, a thrilling snowmobile ride on Vatnajökull or a deluxe tour of Europe’s largest glacier in a super jeep. The area also offers ATV tours and geothermal baths You can choose at Hoffell, reindeer between glacier walks excursions, a visit to and ice climbing, a the Thorbergssetur boat tour in a glacial Cultural Museum lagoon, a thrilling and an exhibit of snowmobile ride on local rocks and Vatnajökull or a deluxe minerals, a trip to tour of Europe’s largest the local handicraft glacier in a super jeep. store, the petting zoo at Hólmur and much more. There are various possibilities in accommodations to suit different needs and you’ll be sure to find a warm welcome by knowledgeable hosts.

Several restaurants are in the area and most of them offer local food. Be sure to ask for the local beer Vatnajökull, which is brewed from the icebergs of Jökulsárlón with the local herb arctic thyme.

Accessible year round The Vatnajökull region is well accessible all year round due to good weather conditions and frequent transportation. Eagle Air has daily flights from Reykjavík to Höfn Airport during the summ­­ ertime and five days a week during other seasons.

Buses (Strætó) between Reykjavík and Höfn are scheduled daily throughout the year. There are also three car rental companies in Höfn. v

For more information check out www.visitvatnajokull.is.

Issue four 81

GO WEST!

Delicious destinations in elf country Snæfellsnes, Breiðafjörður and the West Fjords of Iceland are a part of the country not to be missed. Whether you go by car, foot or boat know that elves roam these hills and sea monsters inhabit the shores.

Also www.eatsandsleeps.is has a few good stops to share with you. by www.eatsandsleeps.is Photos: Courtesy of respective restaurants

Fjöruhúsið – Hellnar

The Snæfellsnes peninsula is a real adventure and this little place is way out there, on the beach in the shadow of the glacier among the seagulls and the great rock sculptures. It gets an easy 10 out of 10 for location alone. Their homemade cakes are the stuff of childhood dreams and the fish soup is exactly what you need after a day of enjoying this area which seems like the setting of some amazing fantasy novel. www.facebook.com/FjoruhusidHellnum

Narfeyrarstofa – Stykkishólmur

This is fine dining in one of the most picturesque towns in all of Iceland.

Local ingredients and culinary craftsmanship make a pretty good bet for a seriously good meal. To get there, go up the road from the harbor and take a few steps from where the sea tour boats dock after sightseeing in the bay. There is no better way to spend the evening than in the warm surroundings of this beautiful house built over a century ago. www.narfeyrarstofa.is

Hotel Flatey – Flatey

It has been written that the origins of all things romantic are within the Breidafjordur Bay. If you are fortunate enough to find yourself on this treasure island of stunning beauty and want a little something to make your day perfect then plan for lunch or dinner there. It might be the only place in town but that does not reduce its quality in any way. A great menu prepared by people who really care will be sure to make you happy. www.hotelflatey.is

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Landnamssetrid – Borgarnes

The settlement exhibition in Borgarnes, on the Snæfellsnes peninsula just north of the capital, is a worthwhile museum to visit with an exciting exhibition about human settlement in Iceland and the legendary Viking poet Egil Skallagrimsson. The center also has a great bistro which offers a wide range of light and tasty courses of excellent quality. This charming environment of rolling hills by the sea provides wonderful atmosphere while delighting in some of their local mussels or various vegetarian dishes. www.landnam.is

Tjöruhúsið – Ísafjörður

This is the place to go if you want the treasures of the North Atlantic served to you in a delicious fresh abundance. Great hot pans come flowing from the kitchen with a steaming catch of the day served simply with potatoes and fresh greens. This is one of the best spots in the country to eat fish and the rustic surroundings rich with history are a sure setting for a great meal. www.facebook.com/Tjoruhusid

e to Welcom úsavík H

BOOK online NOW : www.northsailing.is or call +354 464 7272 Issue four 83

Take a hike

Mt. Þyrill in Hvalfjörður Hvalfjörður (Whale Fjord) is near Reykjavik and was well known to most people when road no. 1 (the Ring Road) passed through it and you had to drive the whole fjord if you wanted to travel from Reykjavik to the western and northern part of Iceland.

Text and photos by Einar Skúlason

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A peek from the peak Mt. Þyrill is one of these destinations and well worth the climb. The name of the mountain refers to the harsh winds that gain strength in its hills and can be seen as small tornadoes twisting on the fjord.

A farm with the same name sits below the mountain and the legend has it that if seven brothers marry seven sisters there on a particular day, the mountain will collapse. So beware of this if a wedding of that sort is taking place in the area. after Hörður killed and vandalized one of The hiking trail up Þyrill is not difficult the farmers, they then steal goods and and the view from the top is beautiful. livestock Upphafsstaður göngu er ágætlegafrom merkturother skammtfarmers. frá Brunná ogGeirshólmi gott pláss fyrir bíla við the veginn. Þar er myndarleg sem Guðjón Kristinsson Dröngum á Ströndum The first few kilometers are part of Islandvarða is easy to spot fromfráthe top of Þyrill. hlóð árið 2000. Gengið er eftir Síldarmannagötum, en nafnið kemur frá því þegar Síldarmannagötur (Herring Men Trail), andog Hörður were stystu tricked into Borgfirðingar fóru tilAfter síldveiðaGeir í Botnsvogi báru svo veiðina leið aftur í heimaÁ nokkur hundruð metra kafl a er meginhlutinn af hæðaraukningunni tekinn í an old trail leading to Skorradalurhaga.

Valley coming ashore and then killed along with einu lagi, en þetta er þægileg ganga því að gengið er á stöllum í brekkunum. Þarna 15 kilometers away. Its name is believed theirhafa allies, Hörður’s mun Arnes útilegumaður setið fyrir fólki á 18.wife, öld, enHelga, hann var managed samtíða FjallaEyvindi. er Reiðskarð úr því er á brúnina. to be connected to the old tradition of Efst í Síldarmannabrekkum to swim with her twoogsons allkomið theupp way to Umhverfis má sjá Hvalfellið við enda Botnsdals og Botnssúlurnar þar sunnan megin carrying herring caught in Hvalfjordur the beach andallescape Mt. og andspænis yfir Botnsvoginn er Múlafj eða Múlinnby einsrunning og hann erup oft kallaður. to Skorradalur. After only a short walk Þyrill and over to Skorradalur.

Ofan Reiðskarðs má sjá eftir endilöngum Þyrlinum og er gengið áfram beint af augit is possible to see Paradise Waterfall, After enjoying sights of the 30 og þægium eftir slóðum meðfram brúninni sunnan the megin.

Er það bæði greiðfær leg ganga síðra að sjá lagskipta kletta í nærmynd en fallegan around 100 meters east of the trail.

Afterog ekkertkilometers-long fjordÞyrilsins and the mountains Hvalfjörðinn breiða úr sér fyrir neðan. Rétt er að halda sig frá fjallsbrúnum ef fréttist af continuing upwards you reach thebrúðkaupi top and around it, it undir is easiest to head the að samnefndum bæ (Þyrli) fjallinu. Þjóðsaga segirback nefnilega að fjallið hrynja yfir bæinn ef brúðkaup bræðra verða haldin þar samtímis. then walk on top of the mountainmuni to the same way. sjö While walking down the hills west until you reach the pile of stones at there isá abrún splendid view over Það er tilkomumikið að standa Þyrils og virða Hvalfj örðinnBotnsdalur fyrir sér. Má ímynda sér umstangið í kringum fleiri If þúsund herlið dvaldi stöðum the end.

Valley. you manna decide to sem hike intoá nokkrum Botnsdalur við fjörðinn á stríðsárunum og allt að hundrað skip á haffletinum þar samtímis. Mikið thereMiðsands is a chance youþar will find a bottle var umleikis í landi jarðanna og Litlasands sem Olíufélagið og Hvalur hf. voru herstöðvar á Hvítanesi og við Hvammsvík.

Connection to the Sagas höfðu svo aðsetur. Einnig of Jón’s home-brewed alcohol stacked One of the Icelandic sagas, “Harðar between rocks orsömu in aleiðmuddy hole. Take Eftirsaga góða stund á toppi Þyrils er best að fara aftur til baka. og Hólmverja,” takes place in Hvalfjörður a sip, but please leave the bottle as it is where blood-brothers, Geir and Hörður, as a courtesy to Jón, the last farmer of ended up in Geirshólmi Island as outlaws Botnsdalur... He was one of a kind.

The hiking trail up Þyrill is not difficult and the view from the top is beautiful. The first few kilometers are part of the Síldarmannagötur (Herring Men Trail), an old trail leading to Skorradalur Valley 15 kilometers away.

The name “Hvalfjörður” According to legend, a man was turned into a malicious whale after failing to fulfil his promise to a hidden woman (huldukona) and was destined to roam the seas and cause harm and destruction.

The whale sank many boats until a priest in Hvalfjörður used witchcraft to lure it into the 7-8 km/ 400 m fjord, up Botnsá River, up the waterfall Glymur Göngutím in Botnsdalur and all the way to Hvalvatn (Whale Útbúnaður taki mið a Lake) where it exploded.

Leiðin er merkt upp í R

O

Þyrill

ft má The rekasttrack á lóu á Botnsheiði við Þyril.

Húnbe er found here: for theoghike can mófugl og farfugl eins og flestir þekkja enda er það GPS:aðwww.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=3566813 gömul þjóðtrú hún komi með vorið með sér þegar hún kemur til landsins í lok mars eða byrjun apríl. Lóan yrill er formfagur og tilkomumikill þar sem hann st lifir aðallega á ánamöðkum, mýflugum, skordýralirfum við Þyrilsnesið í botni Hvalfjarðar. Hamraveggirnir r og sniglum. Á sumrin nærist hún einnig á jurtafæðu, umhverfið og undirstrika hversu ólíkur Þyrill er öðrum t.d. berjum. Fyrst eftir komuna til landsins dvelur hún þessum slóðum. Gangan er ekki erfið upp á topp og meðfram ströndum en leitar svo í móa, mýrar eða upp stórfenglegt yfir Botnsdalinn og Hvalfjörðinn allan. til heiða eftir varpstað. Hún verpir í seinni hluta maí, oftast fjórum eggjum í einfalda laut í lyngmóa eða grasi. Í lok júlí hverfur hún á braut og flýgur burt til vetrardvalar.

Þ

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Issue four 85

The University of Iceland

A piece of art deco The main building of the University of Iceland is one of the buildings in Reykjavík you’ll immediately notice and undoubtedly think: WOW, that’s something!

by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

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he building stands like a fortress before a semi-circular lawn where a sculpture of Sæmundur Fróði, Sæmundur the Wise, stands. He was an Icelandic priest and a scholar, and the sculpture shows Sæmundur killing a diabolical seal. The building stands near the Nordic House, The National Library of Iceland and Reykjavík’s domestic airport and is only about a ten minutes’ walk from downtown Reykjavík.

Inspired by nature The University of Iceland was founded by Alþingi, Iceland’s parliament, in 1911, uniting three former post-secondary institutions where they taught theology, medicine and law. For the first 30 years or so it was housed in the Icelandic parliament building in downtown Reykjavík. In 1934 a cash-prize lottery was founded which became the major source of funding for the construction of university buildings.

The state architect at the time, Guðjón Samúelsson, designed the main building of the university which was consecrated in 1940. It is worth mentioning that Guðjón also designed the National Theater of Iceland, Hallgrímskirkja church and Landspítalinn hospital. Many people claim Guðjón’s designs are inspired by the natural geology of Iceland—especially basalt columns. Maybe you could see such inspiration in some of his designs.

Students digging the base The style of the University of Iceland’s main building is art deco. Although more than 70 years old, it was at the same time simple and modern—outside as well as in.

The building was quite a breakthrough. It was the first time the contractors used mainly Icelandic materials, including stones and minerals, as well as Icelandic innovation for such a big building. The mineral in the outer layer of the building is Icelandic—Quartz and the rumor is that the outer layer also contains gold, about 1 kilogram (worth ca. $36,000) so it’s not worth scraping the whole thing off to get it! Also used in the building are minerals such as volcanic glass or obsidian (hrafntinna), red rhyolite which is rare and Iceland spar (silfurberg) which is rare outside of Iceland. During the construction work, some of the students got a job digging the base for the building and they only used a shovel and hake.

Among the top 300 In the University of Iceland, they offer opportunities for study and research in almost 400 programs. There are about 14,000 students, with around two thirds of them female.

The University places emphasis on international cooperation. In 2011, it was ranked among the 300 best universities in the world by Times Higher Education World University Rankings—there are about 17,000 universities on this planet.

Since then, the University of Iceland has moved up a few seats. WOW!

Want a chance to study in this great building? The University of Iceland welcomes international students: english.hi.is

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Osushi is a unique rest­aurant in Iceland. The met­­hod of dining involves snatching small plates from a conveyor belt. Pricing is distinguished by the color and pattern of the plate – most range between 230 - 440 ISK. Everything off the con­vey­­or belt is tasty and if you don’t really fancy sushi, you can instead choose for ex­­ample teriyaki chicken, noodle salad, tempura and desserts.

The vibe in Osushi is friendly and relaxed. The restaurant is located almost next door to Althingi (the parliament) which is in the heart of the city.

osushi.is

sm

iðj

Hv

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fis

Vit as

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ga ta

gata

urs

Bald

a agat

brag

sæ

mu

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ga ta

ta ga

ar Pósthússtræti 13 / Borgartúni 29 / Reykjavíkurvegur 60 HF. rð ja N Tel: 561 0562 / www.osushi.is

Issue four 87

WOW design

Mt. Herðubreið

by Gerður Harðardóttir

M

t. Herðubreið, the queen of Icelandic mountains, might be located miles away in the midst of the uninhabitable highlands of Iceland but still it remains close to our nation’s heart. Mt. Herðubreið (literally “broad shoulders”) has been represented in paintings and poetry both through the centuries, as well as being elected the national mountain of Iceland in 2002.

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Since 2012, its almost symmetrical and snowcapped frame has been the motive for a series of colorful pillows, produced by Steinunn Arnardóttir and Leópold Krist­ jáns­son of Berlin-based Markrun Design Company. The Herðubreið pillows are fill­ed up with fluffy goose feathers and the covers are handmade at Markrun’s head­quarters in Berlin out of surplus materi­als which the designers buy from all over the world.

Mt. Herðubreið has been represented in paintings and poetry both through the centuries, as well as being elected the national mountain of Iceland in 2002.

The Mt. Herðubreið pillows are available, in three different sizes and a range of colors at the following boutiques in Ice­­ land: Mýrin, Kraum, Nordic House, Natio­­ nal Museum of Iceland, Kjarvals­staðir Museum Reykjavík Art Museum and Epal in Reykjavik, Hús Handanna in Egilsstaðir and Útgerðin in the Westmann Islands. v

For more information on Markrun Designs check out www.markrun.com.

H V Í TA H Ú S I Ð / S Í A

THE KIDS LIKE IT WHEN I PRE-ORDER ONLINE

THEN ALL I HAVE TO DO IS PICK UP MY ORDER

Save both time and effort by using the Duty Free Express service.

Discounts are available regardless of what passport you may hold or which country you are flying to or from.

Order online and pick up at the Duty Free Store. www.dutyfree.is Issue four 89

WOW hair

tips and tricks

from the crew

by Helga María Albertsdóttir Photos: Sigurjón Ragnar and Thinkstockphotos.com

We really like our job as cabin crew. The gett­ing up at four in the morning part to get ready maybe a little less but you get used to it, and most of us are out the door in just 30 minutes, hair-do and all. We love to share these little tips and tricks with our guests so here they come.

If you forget the wall plug for your phone don’t panic, even though it’s a little slower you can charge devices through the USB slot on the TV in your hotel.

To prevent bottles from leaking in your luggage and you from freaking out when you open the suitcase only to realize Marc Jacobs does not make nail polish remover resistant handbags, place a plastic wrap over the opening of the container and then seal it with the cap.

Rolling is the way to go. You can get so much more into a bag when you roll. Want to get away with a just a 12 kg carry on? Better start rolling and don’t underestimate the fanny pack. Whatever it takes to get you on your way to a good holiday packed in just one tiny bag!

Put a cotton pad in your compact powder case if you have to pack it in the suitcase. It prevents the powder from braking and making a mess in your make-up bag for weeks until finally you tire of having an anxiety attack every time you open that thing up, never knowing how the once nicely set powder is going to behave and just go get a new one.

Shoes not so shiny and no shoe polish? No worries, if you are staying at a real nice place you might find there is actually a service for that but if not, you can use body lotion to polish your shoes. The one from the hotel amenity kit will give your shoes a nice clean look.

Have something you want to keep fancy for your trip? Fold it nicely and pack it in a soft plastic bag and it will come out of your suitcase ready to use.

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What we’re obsessing over:

BIKES

It seems as if the whole crew is gearing up! There are the mountain bikers, the city bikers, racer types and even some kind of real chunky bikes that are actually called fatbikes that are joining the fleet. We are getting more and more Snapchats and Instagrams of crew members with their new rides—and the reason? Maybe we are inspired by the WOW Cyclothon that took place last June where four brave women from our crew took on the challenge of racing around Iceland on bikes in less than three days. It could also be that now you can rent a bike in so many cities that it makes for a great activity on stop-overs. Now the fun part is to see how we can accessorize those pretty little things.

Ready for take off

These popular WOW hairstyles are easy to do, even at 4 o’clock in the morning. Check out wowair.us/magazine/ crew for more tips and tricks.

TIP!

THE CREW LOVES IT!

Applying dry shampoo to clean hair will make sure your hairdo goes the distance.

The tell tales of no sleep Sleeplessness, stress, anxiety and fatigue (anyone say early flight?) all make sure there is more of the stress hormone cortisol released into our bloodstream and with that bonus dose of cortisol come dark circles under the eyes. Use eye cream and a yellow toned concealer, and for a long term solution use eye gel that conditions the skin and makes dark circles less noticeable.

If you have puffy eyes, dehydration and poor toxin elimination could be to blame. Splashing cold water on your face as soon as you get up in the morning dilates the skin vessels, shrinks the pores and reduces puffiness. It also has the added bonus of waking you up really quickly.

Remember to drink plenty of water, and once you arrive at your destination try to squeeze in a little exercise even though you are really tired. Just a 15 minute walk/run or a swim in the pool can make a big difference. Even if you arrive in the middle of the night a 15 minute walk can still make a big difference.

Issue four 91

No matter how far you are going this hairdo isn’t going anywhere!

The only skill needed is to be able to do a French braid. The rest is really easy.

WHAT YOU NEED Hair clip Elastic Hair pins Hair spray

The Long -haul-do STEP 1.

Part your hair to the side or in the center keeping in mind that a center part is best for round or square face shapes. Begin on one side twisting your hair using two strands of hair.

STEP 2.

THE Art of shading

Add a little more hair to the lower strand at each twist.

STEP 3.

Once you reach the center, secure with a hair clip and repeat on the other side.

STEP 4.

Grab the two twisted sides securely so the hair does not come loose and remove the clip.

STEP 5.

Split into three strands.

STEP 6.

French braid using the rest of the hair.

STEP 7.

Secure with an elastic.

STEP 8.

The braid now goes into the little hollow area under the French braid.

STEP 9.

Secure with hairpins.

Applying eye shadow is something that many of us were not comfortable with when we started flying but found out it really isn’t all that difficult. he most important thing of all is the tools you use. To start with, a good primer makes a big difference and any makeup artist will tell you that a good brush is worth its weight in gold. There is no need to start with a whole rainbow of colors. Get yourself three colors that complement each other in light, medium and dark tones and you are good to go.

Use the lightest color on the inner corner of your eye, sweeping just over the lashes toward the outer corner of the eye. Next use the middle hue from your lash line to your crease and the darkest shadow is used to contour your lid. With a clean brush, lightly blend the colors together to get a clean professional look.

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Vodafone 4G

Choose Vodafone Iceland With Vodafone, you gain access to an extensive 4G network in Iceland with excellent 3G/4G roaming connectivity, no matter whether you’re on sea or land. Share your memories by using Vodafone’s prepaid mobile starter kit with voice and data.

Vodafone Power to you

PHOTO Buy your prepaid SIM card at BSI bus terminal, Vodafone stores, N1 gas stations all around Iceland, and at our network of resellers.

Issue four 93

CONNECTING

Boston Washington D.C.

I C EL A ND ’ S O N LY H I GH P ER F O R M A N C E LOW-CO S T A I R L I N E

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wowair.com

THE CONTINENTS

Reykjavik

Billund Vilnius Dublin

Copenhagen London Amsterdam Paris

Warsaw

D端sseldorf Stuttgart Lyon

Barcelona

Berlin

Salzburg Milan

Rome

Alicante

Tenerife

Issue four 95

Keep rolling

Amsterdam on bike Mike’s Bike Tours in Amsterdam started back in 1997 with 40 bikes, open 7 months a year. Now Mike’s Bike Tours has expanded to almost 300 bikes, open all year round, and offering bike tours and bike rentals in the amazing city of Amsterdam. Bente Hughes tells us why we must go biking next time we visit Amsterdam.

by Fjóla Helgadóttir Photos: Courtesy of Mike’s Bike Tours

B

iking is a most excellent way of exploring a city because you can see and experience so much more than you ever could by walking around.

Amsterdam is especially bike friendly and to really discover the hidden gems this city has to offer, one simply has to get on 2 wheels,” says Bente, adding that with biking being thirsty work, the tours most likely end at their favorite local pub for a drink or two! “There are several different bike tours to choose from; the Mini City Bike Tour, City Bike Tour and Countryside Bike Tour with the City Bike Tour being a great way to discover Amsterdam.” The City Bike Tour departs daily at 12:00 and over the course of approximately 3 hours you’ll learn about the funky crooked houses and wondrous waterways, the very liberal public policies around sex and drugs, and how a single company brought this small, relatively young

“Amsterdam is especi­ally bike friendly and to really dis­cover the hidden gems this city has to offer, one simply has to get on 2 wheels.”

European city to such wealth, power and prominence. You’ll be taken through the most beautiful and interesting aspects of this city and learn about its rich, strange history as well as the weird foibles that make up Amsterdam culture. All of this mixed with the observations and opinions of your guides, all of

whom are well seasoned and eager to share their hard earned knowledge. Bente says highlights on the City Bike Tour include: Museumsplein, Vondelpark, Skinny Bridge aka Magerbrug, Jordaan, Canal Belt, red light district, Oude Kerk (Old Church) Nieuwmarkt (de Waag), Anne Frank House, entertainment districts (Leidseplein, Rembrandtplein) and much more.

Enjoy the countryside!

Their most popular tour, and Bente’s personal favorite, is the Countryside Bike Tour. The tour departs daily at 11 am and lasts about 4 hours.

Highlights are a lovely windmill, an entertaining cheese and clogs farm, Polders, Amsterdamse Bos and Vondelpark among other wonderful destinations. “It’s a great way to explore the Dutch countryside. I relish getting out of the city into the fresh country air and enjoy all the beautiful and relaxing green areas along the amazing bike path network.” For people who are only a short time in Amsterdam I recommend our City Bike Tour and otherwise I recommend the Countryside Bike Tour or even doing both!” v

Find more information on Mike’s Bike Tours at www.mikesbiketoursamsterdam.com

It’s time to enjoy the Netherlands. WOW air offers cheap flights to Amsterdam from USA and Iceland 2-4 times a week, all year round.

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Issue four 97

Summer in Berlin The beaches There are beaches and many lakes around Berlin and a good beach with white sand is only a short train ride away. The largest and most famous one is Wannsee, created in 1907. For a smaller, cozier experi­ence there‘s Orankesee in Pankow or Wand­ litzsee. Most of the beaches do have admission fees but there are of course, places around the lakes you can reach without paying.

Schleusenkrug If you know where to look, you can find good “beergartens” in Berlin. One of them, Schleusenkrug, is just a stone’s throw away from the Zoo Train Station in the middle of Tiergarten, the green lung of Berlin. Schleusenkrug is located by a canal that in war times was right on the borders of East and West Berlin. During that time the canals and rivers belonged to East Germany so the East German border patrol had to sit in the basement of Schleusenkrug while the citizens of West Germany had fun above.

During the summer Schleusenkrug has a barbeque outside and the food is great.

They offer a lot of vegetable dishes as well as organic meat and have a new seasonal menu every week. The atmosphere is relaxed and it is a great place to wind down after a shopping trip at the nearby Kurfürstendamm.

Top 10 activities in a hot city Berlin, the capital of Germany, is sizzling all year round, but during the summer it can get really hot. Our friends at Berlinur.de are fountains of wisdom when it comes to Berlin and they’ve put together a top 10 list of hot summer activities in the city.

Photos: Courtesy of Berlinur.de

Treptower Park What’s more relaxing than visiting an island? Insel der Jugend is located in the Treptower Park in Berlin and arriving on this island is like stepping 100 years back in time. Everything is quiet and relaxed and you feel like you’ve ventured into a fairytale world. You will find small cafés, restaurants and boat rentals, and everything you need to enjoy a utopian experience. There‘s nothing like it.

Treptower Park, Insel der Jugend, 12435 Berlin, Treptow-Köperinick The Turkish market In Berlin, you can travel the world with just your taste buds. The first stop on your journey should be the Turkish market in the Maibachufer district where it‘s like entering another country; exotic spices, meat, bread and an assortment of langu­ ages will fill your senses. Originally the

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market was opened by Turks and for Turks but now it’s popular among everyone. Here lies the cradle of diversity in Berlin and it saves you a trip to Turkey to experience a real Turkish market.

The Turkish Market, Maibachufer, 10999 Berlin, Neukölln Café Pförtner Café Pförtner is an unusual restaurant, located in Wedding, the latest hip neighborhood of Berlin. The location used to be a public transport station that housed both buses and trains, so it’s not so surprising to enjoy a dining experience inside a transformed bus. The food is great and across from the restaurant is Uferstudios, a popular venue for cultural events.

Café Pförtner, Uferstraße 8-10, 13357 Berlin, Wedding

There are beaches and many lakes around Berlin and a good beach with white sand is only a short train ride away.

Schleusenkrug, Müller-BreslauStraße, 10623 Berlin, Tiergarten Sailing On a sweltering day people will try a lot of things to stay cool. You can always stand in front of an open fridge but it’s better to use your time in Berlin going sailing. By the River Spree you can jump on board and take a two hour cruise around the city.

The boats that are used are comfortable and have bars where you can quench your

thirst. On the way you feel the wind in your hair, enjoy the sun and see Berlin from a totally different view.

Klunkerkranich Klunkerkranich is a cultural center with a rooftop garden on top of Neukölln Arkaden, a shopping center in Neukölln.

The proprietors of the garden wanted to make the city more green and set up a vegetable and flower garden there.

Everyone is welcome to work in the garden and enjoy it together. They have a great variety of plants and offer good tips on how to garden. In Klunkerkranich there is also a café/restaurant/bar, a concert venue, a movie theater and a great view of the city. Klunkerkranich is a cultural hotspot, a great place to visit during twilight hours and one of the most romantic places in town.

Klunkerkranich, Karl-Marx-Straße 66, 12043 Berlin, Neukölln Tempelhofer Feld What could be more unusual than to traipse around a former landing strip in the middle of a bustling metropolis?

Whether you know the dramatic history of Tempelhofer Feld or you’re just there to enjoy some wind boarding, line-skating or biking (available for rent on the premises) this is an area that’s perfect for leisure activities. At Tempelhofer Feld there

are a lot of projects going on like urban gardening where edible plants and herbs are cultivated in a variety of containers, even old shoes!

Plansche When you want to cool down you can visit Plansche in the Mitte district—a water park with fountains and a wading pool that’s perfect for both children and grownups. The children love running through the water and it’s a good place to relax after a shopping trip at the nearby Hackescher Markt. Just remember to wear shoes even if you’re playing in the water as the slippery ground surface can be dangerous.

The first stop on your journey should be the Turkish market in the Maibachufer district where it‘s like entering another country; exotic spices, meat, bread and an assortment of langu­ages will fill your senses.

Plansche, Weinbergpark, Wein­ bergsweg 11, 10119 Berlin, Mitte SüSSe Sünde Ice cream is essential when you’re braving the summer heat of Berlin. But there’s ice cream and then there’s ICE CREAM! This is the case with the Süße Sünde ice cream parlor in Weinberweg, a perfect way to top off your cool down in Plansche as they serve the best ice cream in town. You can choose from an assortment of flavors, blended with love and care. The biggest ice cream enthusiasts get a subscription card so they don’t have to search for coins whenever their desire for ice cream surfaces. v

Written by Katrín Árnadóttir and Margrét Rós Harðardóttir at Berlinur.de, the Icelandic hostesses of Berlin. Berlinur offers a variety of guided tours around Berlin in both Icelandic and English. For more information and booking visit www.berlinur.de or email them at berlinur@berlinur.de.

Find cheap flights to and from Berlin at wowair.com.

Berlin is definitely a hot destination and that is why WOW air offers cheap flights to Berlin all year round from USA and Iceland.

Issue four 99

Into the green

Dublin—get out of town!

Traveling to Dublin, Ireland just became easy and affordable with WOW air’s new route from USA via Iceland. Dublin is an amazing city with so many things to see and do but just because it has all that vibrant night life and awesome historic sites there’s no reason to miss out on the wild Wicklow Mountains in the great outdoors while in Ireland.

Photos: Tourism Ireland

T

he Wicklow Mountains can be seen from almost anywhere in Dublin which is one of the reasons that the buildings aren’t higher, leaving the city, light and airy. But instead of just seeing them from afar we wholeheartedly recommend a daytrip into the moun­ tains, either by rental car or on a guided tour. This is a walkers’ and mountain bikers’ paradise with great paths across heather covered heaths, deserted vill­ ages, glacial corrie lakes and rugged peaks. It’s wild alright and the wildest part is that the area is just an hour away from Dublin city.

Powerscourt Estate If you really need to recharge your batter­ies there is no place better than the magical Glendalough Valley in the Wicklow Mountains but we’re really getting ahead of ourselves here

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Whether you are an outdoorsy type ready for a good walk, a history buff with unquenchable thirst for knowledge or a seeking traveler looking for inner peace Glendalough is sure to deliver.

as a good daytrip to the Wicklow Moun­­­tains should start with a visit to the Powerscourt Estate, only 20 minutes from Dublin, and a stroll around its magnificent garden.

Nominated by the Lonely Planet as one of the Top 10 Houses and Mansions in the World, Powerscourt originally held a castle dating from the 12th century which was

remodeled as a magnificent Palla­dian mansion in the 18th century and then renovated in 1996. Set in 1,000 acres of beautifully kept grounds, including 47 acres of landscaped gardens, it features Italian and Japanese gardens, statues and ornamental lakes, woodland walks and over 200 variations of trees and shrubs, the highest waterfall in Ireland, and let’s not forget; two championship golf courses! In our opinion golfing doesn’t get grander than this. If you’re on a golfing trip to the European Club (see www.gaman.is for package trips) the golf courses at Powerscourt are not too far away and add a great variety to your golfing holiday.

Finish your trip to Powerscourt by visiting the design shops, followed by a stop at the garden terrace where you can nibble on some the best scones you’ve ever tasted while enjoying the view of the gardens with the famous Sugarloaf Mountain as backdrop.

Visit powerscourt.com for more information.

Glendalough Valley The dramatic hills of the Wicklow Mountains are home to the magnificent and tranquil Glendalough Valley in Wicklow National Park. Glendalough literally means “The valley of the two lakes” so as you’ve probably guessed the valley has two lakes.

The valley is best known for its Christian monastic settlement founded by St. Kevin in the 6th century and which later became the Monastic City, as Kevin’s many followers sought to be near this holy man.

With spectacular scenery, rich history and abundant wildlife the valley of two lakes draws in both visitors and Dubliners alike, especially during the summer.

Whether you are an outdoorsy type ready for a good walk, a history buff with unquenchable thirst for knowledge or a seeking traveler looking for inner peace Glendalough is sure to deliver. Stop by the scenic upper lake and enjoy the serenity. And if you prepared a picnic lunch this is the perfect place to enjoy it. Here you can walk up to the Reefert Church dating from ca. 1100 and St. Kevin’s Cell which has a great view over the upper lake and is a good place for quiet contemplation.

Take the easy scenic walk from the upper lake up to the heart of the Monastic City at the end of the lower lake where you’ll find the old cemetery, church ruins and the impressive round tower. It’s not hard to see why Ireland was once known as the land of saints and scholars; Christianity has played a huge part in the history of the nation. The ruins from the Monastic City only tell a fraction of that story and yet the feeling of walking amongst buildings from the 10th and 12th century still fills you with awe for the people who built them. If you desire more information, take a tour of the exhibition at the visitor’s center in the upper valley showing how life once was in one of the most important monastic sites in Ireland.

It might be a good idea to get a guide to take you up to the mountains and through the monastic ruins. Check out wicklowmountainstour.ie, www.wildwicklow.ie and www.glendalough.ie. And don’t worry—you still have time to take part in the awesome Dublin nightlife once you get back into town.

Ireland awaits, can you imagine the autumn colors? WOW air offers cheap flights to Dublin all year round from USA and Iceland; three flights a week until October and two flights a week this winter. Find flights to Dublin, Ireland at wowair.com.

Issue four 101

Parisian pleasures

A sizzling summer retreat Paris can be an exciting place when she sizzles under the summer sun, with cafés refreshing guests into the wee hours of the morning. But heat waves are also the perfect time to get away from the radiating pavement and humanity of city life for a refreshing moment with nature.

By Sylvia Sabes

Beach bébé…

The lush Normand countryside whisks by passeng­­­ ers on the train ride to Deauville-Trouville. The two towns are 19th century siblings. Deauville is a posh beach resort that is so Parisian, it is known as the 21st arrondissement, while Trouville is a relaxed fishing village with a more relaxed rhythm. Beyond their wide, sandy beaches, both towns are rich in architectural charm and outdoor activities. From horseback riding along the shore, to catamarans at sea, or bike rentals for exploring the bucolic region, there are countless ways to get out and about. A custom-made seafood platter while overlooking the port at the Trouville fish market makes the perfect lunch… and in the evening, stroll the historic, Hollywood studded Deauville boardwalk

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as far as Tourgéville for dinner on the beach at Les 3 Mages. After sunset, the towns’ casinos throw a party to keep the fun happening all night long.

Les 3 Mages 1 Avenue de la Terrasse, Tourgéville 02 31 88 55 00

Country chic Adventurous Parisians rent bikes and pedal an easy 11 km on the Coulée Verte cycling path to Sceaux, a sleepy town with a welcoming pedestrian area, an elegant castle, and refreshingly cool 17th century gardens designed by Le Notre. Sceaux is truly exceptional on Wednesday and Saturday

mornings when the market rolls in. Locals shop the market, stopping by Patrick Roger for chocolates and L’Etoile du Berger for sandwiches and treats before picnicking on the chateau grounds, which are also home to an orangery that hosts classical music concerts, public outdoor pools, tennis courts and art exhibitions. The RER B station is a short ride downhill for a quick train trip back to Paris.

Patrick Roger 47 Rue Houdan, Sceaux 01 47 02 30 17 L’Etoile du Berger 6 Rue du Dr Berger, Sceaux 01 46 60 57 56

In the bois There is nothing cooler in the Ile de France than the 1930s Art Deco swimming pools at the Hotel Molitor, making it the ideal summer getaway without leaving the city.

Located next to the Bois de Boulogne, a large woodland that grows from the city’s western border, the hotel is an urban haven at the edge of nature. After hours by the pool, visitors can tour the park’s Rolland

Garros Tennis Museum or the 19th century greenhouses, go canoeing in the man-made lakes, be astounded by Franck Gerhy’s architectural masterpiece at the Fondation Louis Vuitton or take advantage of the 15 kilometers of running and bike paths. La Grande Cascade and the Pré Cat­­el­­an are two gourmet restaurants in the park, with Le Chalet des Iles a more re­­laxed option in the middle of a lake.

La Grande Cascade Bois de Boulogne, Allée de Longchamp, 16th 01 45 27 33 51 Le Pré Catelan Bois de Boulogne, Route de Suresnes, 16th 01 44 14 41 14 Le Chalet des Iles 14 Chemin de Ceinture du Lac Inférieur, 16th 01 42 88 04 69

Find cheap flights to Paris with WOW air at wowair.com.

We’re hot for Paris and that’s why WOW air offers several flights a week, all year round to the City of Lights, from USA and Iceland.

We bring you closer to your loved ones MoneyGram money transfer is available at more than 30 post offices across Iceland Easy. Fast. Reliable.

moneygram.is Service number: +354 580 1200 For calls to this number from mobile phones an additional fee may be charged by your provider.

© 2015 MoneyGram. MoneyGram and the Globe are registered trademarks of MoneyGram. All other marks are the property of their respective owner. MoneyGram International Limited is authorised and regulated in the United Kingdom by the Financial Conduct Authority.

Issue four 103

Have a fairy tale vacation!

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Bikes and hikes in Copenhagen Copenhagen Fairy Tales ApS was founded in 2013 with the mission to improve public health and reduce global warming by spreading the Copenhagen bicycle culture, while providing first class bike experiences for tourists and other visitors in Copenhagen. Ádám Kozár, director of Copenhagen Fairy Tales, tells us everything we need to know about their bike tours.

by Fjóla Helgadóttir Photos: Courtesy of Copenhagen Fairy Tales

C

openhagen Fairy Tales offer two types of bike tours, 3 hours and 6 hours long. The 6-hour tour, which includes a break for lunch, will allow you to explore more of Copenhagen and become further immersed in the city and what it has to offer. They also offer walking tours which are always very popular. Also offered are tailor-made guided tour experiences for large and small groups visiting Copenhagen and they have arranged many company picnics, corporate events and tours for tourists, foreign exchange students, schools and other groups.

Do it like the locals!

Some of the famous landmarks of Copenhagen you can expect to see are Statens Museum for Kunst (National Gallery of Denmark), Kastellet, Den Lille Havfrue (the Little Mermaid), Amalienborg, Nyhavn, Kongens Nytorv, Christiania, Vor Frelsers Kirke (Church of Our Saviour), Den Sorte Diamant (the Black Diamond), Christiansborg, Strøget and Rundetårn (Round Tower). During the tours guests will ride through the coolest neighborhoods and discover secret gardens, courtyards and hidden churches. “You cannot do that on foot, except if you want to walk for days. Having a bicycle tour is not

your typical tourist way but it is the local way, especially in Copenhagen.

On our tours, we show you the un­­discovered parts of our city, over bridges and into backstreets.

Every tour is personal and unique depending on the guide, the traffic and weather conditions on the day,” says Ádám. “For families with small children I recommend the private walking tour, while for individual travelers and couples who know how to ride a bicycle it is definitely the public bicycle tour.”

During the tours guests will ride through the coolest neigh­­­bor­ hoods and discover secret gardens, court­yards and hidden churc­hes.

wide range of tailor-made tours like: Hans Christian Andersen based Fairy Tales tour, or Introduction to Jewish Copenhagen.” Copenhagen Fairy Tales also offer special tours outside of Copenhagen for the Greater Copenhagen area and also Malmø.

Copenhagen Fairy Tales’ philosophy is that if their guests enjoy a great bike experience in Copenhagen, they are the best ambassadors for promoting a healthy and environmentally friendly bicycle culture in their home country. v

Special tour just for you! Ádám says they have recently seen increased interest in private bicycle tours which is unique in Copen­­hag­ en. They are among Ádám’s personal favorites. “They are bas­­ed on one particular topic. Once we had the pleasure to make a ‘bicycle in­­fras­ truct­ure’ tour for the LGPA (Local Govern­ment Planners Associ­­ation) based in Perth, Western Austra­­ lia,” explains Adam. “We offer a Check out the Copenhagen Fairy Tales website for additional information and book a tour on your next vacation in Copenhagen! www.copenhagenfairytales.dk

WOW air offers cheap flights to Copenhagen for both you and your bike several times a week all year round from USA and Iceland.

Issue four 105

Have a beautiful day!

Out and about in Boston So much to see so little time! Let us break it down for you; what to see, what to do and the places you must visit, so next time you’re visiting Boston you won’t be spinning around aimlessly trying to figure out how to use your precious time.

Photos: Thinkstockphotos.com

Museum of Fine Arts First of all, museums are a must. You‘re not on vacation to sleep in and watch TV in your hotel room. That’s a big no no. Break out a good pair of shoes and make your way to the Museum of Fine Arts, located on 465 Huntington Avenue.

Inside, you’ll find one of the most comprehensive collections of fine art in the world, such as Van Gogh, French impressionists Manet and Monet,

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18th and 19th century American artwork by John Singleton Copley and many more.

Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum Can’t get enough of museums? Walking distance from the Museum of Fine Arts is the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, opened by its namesake in 1903. From exhibitions of Michelangelo’s renaissance pieces to contemporary art exhibitions

along with the beautiful gardens surrounding the museum, a visit to the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum is bound to be pleasant.

New England Aquarium Here fishy, fishy, fishy! Located on downtown Boston’s waterfront near the financial district, the New England Aquarium is home to thousands of aquatic animals such as sea lions, penguins, and

the North Atlantic right whale. Exhibitions include the Amazon Rainforest and the Gulf of Maine.

Being a leader in ocean exploration and marine conservation, the aquarium also offers educational programs Freedom Trail Exploring a city is exploring its history. If you know what happened on March 5, 1770 (hint: the Boston massacre) or know what historic houses were

New England Aquarium.

almost destroyed in the great Boston fire of 1872 (The Old South Meeting House for example) you can probably skip the Freedom Trail, a 4 km brick lined route, although you really shouldn’t! If you don’t know much about history, you should walk the 2.5 mile long Freedom Trail that passes 16 of some of the most historically significant locations in the U.S. A visitor’s center is located on the first floor of Faneuil Hall where guided tours and maps of the trail are offered.

Swan boats Last but not least on our list is the timeless tradition of heading to the Public Garden and riding a swan boat. Designed by Robert Paget in 1877, the swan boats have a long history of being a cultural icon of the city of Boston. So if you’re visiting Boston in spring or summer, try a relaxing boat ride on the Public Garden lagoon. v

Museum of Fine Arts

Freedom Trail.

Find cheap flights to Boston via Iceland at wowair.com.

Massachusetts is waiting! WOW air offers cheap flights from Europe to Boston via Iceland 5-6 times a week, all year round.

ICELANDIC GOURMET MENU

Freshly caught seafood and free range lamb – with a modern twist

DINNER – 6 COURSE MENU STARTS WITH A “REFRESHING“ SHOT OF THE NATIONAL SNAPS BRENNIVÍN FOLLOWED BY A BITE-SIZED TASTE OF PUFFIN ICELANDIC OCEAN PERCH Slow cooked ocean perch, beetroot purée, spicy butter, serrano ham, beetroot ICELANDIC MINKE WHALE Shallot vinaigrette, crispy Jerusalem artichokes ICELANDIC SEA TROUT Yuzu mayo, truffle mayo, crispy quinoa, apple ICELANDIC PLAICE Samphire, green asparagus, blood orange, lime beurre blanc RACK OF FREE RANGE ICELANDIC LAMB Lamb fillet, leeks, pickled onions, browned celeriac, baked carrots, spinach and dill cream Dessert by pastry chef Axel Þ.

Austurstræti 16

101 Reykjavík

Tel: 551 0011

apotek.is

CHOCOLATE ROSE Chocolate mousse, raspberry gel, Sacher layer

Issue four 107

Get more Ireland!

The culture capital!

WOW air now offers cheap flights to Dublin, Ireland, but just because Dublin is such a great city does not mean we are going to forget all the other beautiful cities of Ireland. Lynne Nolan is here to guide you through some of the must-visit places in Cork City, affectionately described by locals (aka “Corkonians”) as the “real capital.”

by Lynne Nolan

C

ork offers a buzzing city center com­­ bined with some of the world’s most spect­acular scenery. From art, opera and jazz to classical music and festival fun, Cork has always brimmed with culture and it’s been overflowing for the past decade since its status as European Capital of Culture.

Stamped with a laid-back swagger, tree-lined streets, the shopping wonderland of St Patrick’s Street and beyond, and an appealing tangle of laneways, Cork City entertains in spades. After all, this is where Queen Elizabeth was famously photographed laughing with fishmonger Pat O’Connell at the English Market, the beating heart of the county’s thriving food scene.

From arrivals to Cork Getting to Cork is a breeze with GoBé (€28 return, booking on gobe.ie) offering nonstop motorway bus services from Dublin Airport to Cork City with a journey time of 3.5 hrs or Irish Rail’s train service from Dublin’s Heuston Station to Cork taking 2.5 hrs, with the best value fares online at Irishrail.ie.

UCC and the treasure trove of culture Harry Potter fans may require a double take on seeing University College Cork’s beautiful stone-faced quadrangle, built between 1847 and 1849, which draws regul­ar comparisons to Hogwarts. Sir Thomas Deane and Benjamin Wood­­­ward were among the leading archi­­tects of their day in the Gothic style, and the building, with its interiors, gates, gate lodges and stunn­ing associated grounds, is a pro­tected structure.

A recipient of TripAdvisor’s Certifi­ cate of Excellence, recognizing its consistently great reviews, University College Cork (UCC) is chock-full of interesting buildings and features and a great place to spend a few hours. The UCC campus, named one of the world’s 10 best green uni­versi­ ties, is one of the most beauti­ful in

THIS AND THAT Discover the literary history Drop into the Cork City Library for a free self-guided audio tour and discover the hidden literary gems along Cork’s bustling city streets.

Jazz around the city Guinness Cork Jazz Festival (October 23-25) will include the first Irish per­­formance by Grammy Awardwinning vocalist Cassandra Wilson in a Billie Holiday tribute concert. The festival will offer workshops featuring guitar, sax, piano and vocal jazz stars; Open Mic sessions for singers, a jazz gospel choir and “meet the artist” Q&A sessions.

Europe. Old limestone buildings blend seamlessly with stunn­ing mod­ern architecture against a back­drop of mature gardens.

JP Quinn, head of the UCC Visitors’ Centre, says one of the most popular tours is the George Boole Tour, which lasts 70 minutes and takes place at 15:00 from Monday to Friday and on Saturdays at 12:00. “As UCC this year celebrates the bicentenary of the birth of George Boole, a self-taught mathematical genius who changed the world and UCC’s first professor of mathematics, visitors have a chance to glimpse what he was like,” Quinn comments.

The tour involves a visit to the beauti­­ ful Boole stained glass window in UCC’s ­Aula Maxima, the Ogham Stone Corridor, the Crawford Observatory and the Honan Chapel, on which an actor playing Boole discusses why he came to Cork and his impact on the world as the forefather of the Information Age.

UCC.ie, Georgeboole.com

From Dublin for the day Hop on Paddy­ wagon’s affordable Day Tour from Dublin to Cork’s Blarney Castle (€50 incl. admission to Blarney Castle and Gardens) where you can lie back and kiss the magical Blarney Stone to receive the gift of eloquent speech of seven years!

The tour includes a trip to Cobh, the last departure port for RMS Titanic in April 1912 and a panoramic drive through Cork City.

Paddywagontours.com

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Connect with creative synergi­es­ —the city’s best gallery Located at the main entrance to UCC on Western Road, the Lewis Glucks­­man Gallery is a cultural and educa­­­tio­ nal institution in an award-winning building, encompassing display spac­es, lecture facilities, a riverside restaurant and a gallery shop.

* BOOLEAN EXPRESSIONS: Contemporary art and mathematical data, a significant exhibition of con­­temp­ orary art curated by the Lewis Glucksman Gallery in collaboration with the College of Science, Engineering and Food Science at UCC, will run until November 8 this year, with free admission.

The exhibition will demonstrate the cre­­ative synergies between scientific and artistic thinking, featuring artists includ­­ ing Darren Almond, Aram Bartholl, Mel Bochner, Hanne Darboven, John Gerrard, Sol LeWitt, Tatsuo Miyajima, Aisling O’Beirn, Matthew Ritchie, and Lynne Woods Turner.

The gallery and the university are a 10-minute walk from the city and served by the no. 205 and no. 208 buses from the city, which stop at UCC. Opening Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 10am–5pm, Sunday 2–5pm Glucksman.org The Boole Tour. Photo: Clare Keogh

Find cheap flights to Ireland with WOW air at wowair.com.

There can never be enough Ireland in your life so WOW air offers 2-3 flights a week to the Emerald Isle’s capital, Dublin, all year round from USA and Iceland.

VikingSushi Adventure

Ferry Baldur

Flatey Island

The bridge to

Visit this charming

Nature, birds & an

the West fjords

island where time

experience you will

stands still

never forget

www.seatours.is Smiðjustígur 3 - 340 Stykkishólmur - Tel. +354 433 2254 Issue four 109

Heads-up London

The somewhat sordid history of London Bridge Did London Bridge, in fact, fall down? The answer is actually, “yes,� quite a few times before the bridge you now see was constructed.

by Kate Ware Photos: Thinkstockphotos.com and from Wikipedia

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T

o explore a brief history of how we got to the construction that stands today, we need to start at the Roman occupation of England around the middle of the first century AD. The original bridge was made of wood and clay, and was destroyed various times by fires or Viking invaders. After each disaster, the bridge was fortified or reinforced a little bit more using slightly different materials each time.

By 1176, a stone bridge resembling the one we know spanned the Thames. It took 33 years to build, had twenty arches, and was complete with tower and gates. By the 1300s, it also was home to about 140 different shops. This bridge, too, was damaged and dismantled many times, notably in 1968 when the bridge was purchased by a wealthy Missouri oilman, Robert McCulloch at a cost of US$2.46million (£1.63million), and shipped in pieces across the Atlan­­­tic and over to Lake Havasu City, Arizona where today it serves as a tourist attraction. Then in 1973 the bridge that stands before us now was con­­structed.

Off with the heads However, there are some curiosities about the modern bridge that give a nod to its somewhat sordid history. At the southern end of London Bridge, there is an odd-looking, grey, spikey sculp­­ ture jutting up toward the sky. Most people just walk past it, but this lone statue has a great deal of historical significance; it represents the 300year period when assumed traitors’ heads were

baddies of the era. The trendsetter who started it all was William Wallace, a Scotsman who was found guilty of campaigning against Edward I in 1305; his head a grisly reminder of what happens when you mess with the King. Another notable noggin was that of Jack Cade who led a massive rebellion to overthrow the government but failed— the people of London eventually found him to be worse than the government, leaving his head on display in 1450. Later, the exhibit would include the likes of Thomas Moore who refused to accept Henry VIII as ruler, Guy Fawkes, the man behind the 1605 gunpowder plot and quite a few of those that had signed Charles I’s death warrant during the reign of Cromwell.

The London Bridge experience At the time of this macabre show London Bridge was entirely different, a medieval stone structure with shops and houses that rested downstream of the modern bridge. The ghastly display began at the northern end, at the drawbridge gate, but then later moved to the southern end where the reminder is today. The popularity of the bridge dwindled when it lost its claim to fame; in 1678, the heads of the most famous traitors began be­ ing hung at Temple Bar. It managed to hold onto its title of “only bridge over the Thames” until the completion of Westminster Bridge in 1750.

These days, you can participate in “The London Bridge Experience” where you are able to appar­ ently, “see, hear, feel, taste and even smell” what

Claude de Jongh - View of London Bridge – From Wikipedia

London Bridge by Cornell University Library – From Wikipedia

displayed on spikes for all to see. The gruesome sight served as a warning to anyone who dared defy the crown, but it also became something of a tourist attraction, drawing crowds from far and wide. In 1592, a German visitor delighted in counting the 34 heads on display.

The names of those displayed on the Bridge reads like who’s who of the biggest purported

London Bridge was like through the ages. There are re-creations of the old bridges, all of which include live actors in full regalia, walking you through hist­orical events centered on the old bridge. Based on the bridge’s grim history, you may find the ex­per­ i­ence captivating or you may prefer to just tip your hat at the grey sculpture on the south end and be glad you have a place to return it. v

For a historical tour of London Bridge go to www.thelondonbridgeexperience.com

We can hardly wrap our heads around how much we love London, good thing WOW air offers several flights a week to Britain’s capital all year round from USA and Iceland.

Issue four 111

WOW destinations

You want more?

We could never fit all of our destination into just one issue but you should know that WOW air has 20 destinations and soon we will add more. Stay tuned.

the summer months and 1-3 times a week from March to May and September to January.

Washington, D.C. and Baltimore WOW air offers cheap flights to Washington, D.C. and Baltimore. Check out the U.S. capital and get acquainted with the history of the United States or party away in the lively city of Baltimore.

Barcelona Barcelona truly is the perfect destination; tasty tapas, seaside promenades and mind-blowing architecture.

Getting there is the easy part. WOW air offers 2-4 flights a week to Barcelona from Iceland from the middle of May until October.

WOW air flies to Washington 4-6 times a week all year round.

Connecting flights* to Washington are available from London, Dublin, Berlin, Copen­­ hagen, Amsterdam and Paris.

Alicante Warm up by the Mediterranean Sea and taste the best of Spain.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Alicante from Iceland four times a week during

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Vilnius Are you hungry for something different? Visit the capital of Lithuania and see the UNESCO World Heritage listed Old Town.

WOW air offers flights be­tween Vilnius and Iceland once a week during the summer.

Düsseldorf This great city on the Rhine is famous for its art and culture, luxury fashion and lifestyle.

WOW air flies to Düsseldorf, Germany from Iceland twice a week during the summer months.

Warsaw The capital of Poland has some historic charisma and is a great destination if you’re on a budget.

WOW air offers flights to Warsaw from Iceland three times a week during the summer months and weekly from September to January and April and May. Stuttgart This is the right place for wine enthusiasts, car fanatics and culture buffs.

WOW air flies to Stuttgart, Germany from Iceland twice a week during the summer months.

Salzburg Looking for that perfect winter destination? Go skiing in the Austrian Alps’ best ski resorts, just a short drive from Salzburg Airport.

Pack your skis; WOW air flies to Salzburg from Iceland once a week in December, January and February.

* Note that the availability of connecting flights between USA and Europe may vary depending on the flight frequency to each city. WOW air connects London, Paris, Copenhagen, Berlin and Amsterdam to both Boston and Washington, D.C.

Milan Get ready for high fashion and high culture and don’t forget to feast your eyes on da Vinci’s Last Supper.

WOW air flies to Milan, Italy from Iceland 2-3 times a week from June to September.

Lyon Experience the gastronomic capital of France with all its

history and vibrant cultural scene.

WOW air flies to Lyon from Iceland twice a week during the summer months.

Billund There’s no better place for a family vacation than the delightfully Danish home of LEGO.

WOW air offers flights to Billund from Iceland once a week during the summer months.

Rome All roads lead to Rome but we’re going to fly to this most famous world capital.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Rome, Italy once a week in July and August.

Tenerife Relaxing on a tropical island sounds like a dream and Tenerife is a dream come true.

WOW air offers weekly flies to Tenerife Sur from Iceland all year round and twice a week in January, February and March. v

Issue four 113

This and that …

mostly this

A movie lover’s paradise

L How Jón Gnarr changed the world When Jón Gnarr, a comedian and actor, founded the political party Besti Flokkurinn (The Best Party) in 2009, people weren’t sure if this was some sort of a joke or if the guy had simply lost his mind. But when he started campaigning, Icelanders really caught on, seeing that he brought a breath of fresh air to the otherwise stale atmosphere of city politics. Jón Gnarr won big and became an unconventional and successful mayor of Iceland’s capital in 2010. Since then Jón has accomplished many great things, most recently publishing a book called Gnarr! How I Became the Mayor of a Large City in Iceland and Changed the World. The book is Jón’s reflections on his role as mayor, on Icelandic politics and on his own life.

When Jón was a child he had a hard time in school with dyslexia and ADHD, making him an inspiration for many today who see a man that has faced such difficulties, serving such a big role as mayor. His example encourages us not to be deterred in spite of our own obstacles.

John Grant has a new album coming out!

This undeniably talented friend of Iceland will release his third album Grey Tickles, Black Pressure this coming fall.

Grant’s last album, Pale Green Ghosts, was considered one of the best albums of the year 2013 with Grant nominated for International Male Solo Artist at the Brit Awards in 2014.

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ocated in the heart of down­­town Reykjavík, Bíó Paradís is a nonprofit organization run by Ice­­ land’s professional filmmaking guilds. Iceland’s first and only art-house cinema, it is screening the latest art-house releases from all around the world, as well as cult films and Icelandic films. The theater provides a warm, cozy environment for film lovers of all kinds—both in its three screening rooms and its well-stocked bar with happy hour every day from 5:00-7:30 PM. Bíó Paradís’s schedule for August and September is filled with interesting movies. Premier­­­ing

in August are films such as Red Army, the history of Soviet hockey intertwined with the history of the cold war in a broader sense, and My Skinny Sister, that won the Crystal Bear at Gener­­­ation Kplus at 2015 Berlinale Film Festival.

The film tells the story of a girl who discovers that her older sister, and role model, is hiding an eating disorder.

Japanese film days and Russian film days will be held in Bíó Paradís in early September. New films, classics and everything in between, will all be screened with English subtitles. Black Sundays will be held from September where Bíó Paradís will show cult classics with the programs curated

by Hug­­leik­ur Dagsson cartoonist and comedian. The film of choice each Sunday will be announced on the Black Sundays’

The inside of a volcano

I

celandic photographer Kristján Maack has come out with his first book, a picture book about the magnificent vol­­ cano Þríhnúkagígur or Threetop Volcano, located ca. 15 minutes from Reykjavik.

Kristján’s photos of the volcano capture the magic shrouding this amazing natural phenomenon.

Until recently scientists were the only ones allowed into the volcano but now you can book an excursions at Inside the Volcano and descend 120 meters down into the 4.000 year old magma chamber.

Don’t rely on your phone to take good photos down there, check out Kristján Maack’s book, available at Eymundsson in Keflavik Airport, and really make your friends jealous once you get home.

Facebook page: www.facebook. com/Svartir­Sunnudagar.

Head to the cinema while you’re in Iceland. There’s no shortage of great films at Bíó Paradís!

Check out Bíó Paradís screening schedule at: www.bioparadis.is Facebook: www.facebook.com/ bioparadis Twitter: @bioparadis

Of Monsters and Men charting!

Looks like Ice­­­land­­ ers are not the only ones loving this tal­­­ented band!

Of Monsters and Men’s second studio album, Beneath the Skin, topped the iTunes list and was in the no. 3 slot on the Billboard 200 chart, topping their debut album, My Head Is an Animal, which came highest at no. 6 on the chart. We have a feeling this is only the beginning for our fellow Icelanders!

Reykjavík Chips

L

ike the name indicates, this fast food joint focuses on French fries, deep fried Belgian style. With half a dozen types of sauce to choose from and a variety of Icelandic and Belgian beer, Reykjavík Chips is a must try next time you’re in the Icelandic capital. Who doesn’t love fries?

This and that …

mostly this

35 years from first female president elected

I

n addition to celebrating 100 years of women’s suffrage, a big celebration was held on June 28th in downtown Reykjavik, commemorating the 35th anniversary of Vigdís Finnbogadóttir being elected president of Iceland, the first female in history of the world to be elected president. Vigdís held a speech on the occasion, thanking her nation and congratulating it for standing up to conventional custom and electing a female president; she had been proud to represent such an innovative nation. Vigdís mentioned the institution named after her in her honor, the Vigdís Finnbogadóttir Institute of Foreign Languages, and said she looked forward to visitors of Iceland visiting this institution, that will have the most extensive collection of languages in one place. The grand opening is scheduled for October 2016.

Handballers make T-shirts Icelandic handball players Róbert Gunnarsson and Gunnar Steinn Jónsson have teamed up off the field to make T-shirts and hoodies under the name BOB Reykjavik.

For every T-shirt and hoodie sold, a certain percentage goes to UNICEF Iceland, which is used to buy blankets for children in refugee camps around the world.

Visit BOB at bobreykjavik.com

All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890 SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL:

• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is

Issue four 115

Your Ticket to

Adventure

This and that …

mostly this

DAY TOURS AND SNOWMOBILING

Bloody Mammút

LEA AND EXPRNING ERIENCIN

G BEAUTIFUL NATURE

M

ammút’s new music video to their song “Blood Burst,” might be a little bloodier than you’d imagine, but then again this is rock n’roll! Sheep blood was used in the making of the video, showing band members covered in blood. The Icelandic band recently signed with the record label Bella Union in the UK. Also signed to the label are John Grant and the Flaming Lips. Mammút will be playing at the Icelandic Airwaves Music Festival in Reykjavík in November.

MONSTER TRUCKS

Iceland the most peaceful country in the world!

L Tel. (+354) 580 9900 ice@mountaineers.is 116 WOW www.mountaineers.is Power to the people

onging for a relaxing holiday in a peaceful environment? Dipping your toes in a geothermal pool or taking a trip to one of the many small villages in the countryside will surely make any visitor feel happy and calm. And now, unsurprisingly to us Icelanders, the Institute for Economics and Peace has ranked Iceland the most peaceful country in the world on the Global Peace Index. So make sure you visit Iceland on your next vacation and have a relaxed time off from the hustle and bustle of your busy life.

This and that …

mostly this

Icelandic bike forks

U

nsurprisingly from the people who bring you WOW Cyclothon, we love bikes and everything about them! So we are happy to inform you that four Icelandic entrepreneurs are making huge waves with their innovative bike forks, now considered to be among the world’s best.

The Lauf Forks are so popular that they are now distributed in over 30 countries.

The brand consists of two types of forks, Lauf Trail Racer, perfect for mountain bike frames, and the Lauf Carbonara, best fitted for fat bikes. Visit their website for all the details: www.laufforks.com

At your service- Anywhere- Anytime

We´ll make you a Comfortable Price offer!

Special sightseeing taxi tours We specialize in personalized sightseeing day trips to the natural wonders of Iceland – for small groups of 4-8 persons.

All major credit cards accepted by the driver.

To book in advance: tel:+354 588 5522 or on www.hreyfill.is E-mail: tour@hreyfill.is Issue four 117

This and that …

mostly this

Clean spaces make for happy places!

I

celanders are known for their camping enthusiasm, setting up tent in every quarter of the country come rain or shine, so if you are contemplating a camping trip in Iceland you should definitely go for it! Iceland offers numerous camping areas, with some of them providing other useful stuff like toilet facilities and huge barbeque grills, while others offer the bare minimum, such as a simple field of grass to camp on. Whether you find yourself on a moderately equipped camping site or not, you should always make sure you find the garbage containers!

Let’s make sure we keep this small island clean, yeah?

--------------------------------------------

Laugavegur 130 við Hlemm TEL : 5522444, 692- 0564

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many famous people are regulars here

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Exhibition of ancient manuscripts

I

n the Reykjavik City Museum there’s an exhibition of the settlement sagas, open until October. For the first time the manuscripts are on public display as usually they are locked up in the Árni Magnússon Institute for Icelandic Studies. The manuscripts are one of Iceland’s most prized possessions so a visit to the Reykjavik City Museum will undoubtedly leave you in awe of these ancient gems.

bus.is

Travel in Iceland the smart way Take the bus and pay with the app.

Pay the bus fare and get ticket info with your smartphone. Find your routes, plan your journey, locate the nearest bus stop and track your bus on a real-time map.

You can only pay with the app in the capital area

Catch the bus to ReykjavĂ­k from KeflavĂ­k International Airport Get tickets at the 10/11 shop when you arrive, opposite where you exit customs. The bus stop is close to arrivals and is well marked. From June 7th buses to the airport will stop at arrivals and buses from the airport will stop at departures. ind us on Facebook: facebook.com/Straeto

Issue four 119

Hey

look!

Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on.

Text by www.festivals.is

What’s going on over here?

WHAT: Act Alone WHEN: 5-8 August WHERE: Suðureyri, West Fjords

WHAT: Reykjavík Pride WHEN: 4-9 August WHERE: Reykjavík Reykjavík Pride has been an annual event in Reykjavík since 1999 and this year we celebrate for the seventeenth time the struggle, dedication and joy that Icelandic LGBT people have put forth in their battle for legal rights, equality and respect. This is, without a doubt the most important event of the year for lesbians, gays, bisexuals and transgender people, who gather with their families to promote visibility and claim recognition as active members of Icelandic society before their fellow citizens.

From 4-9 August there will be many Reykjavík Pride events; photo exhi­­ bitions, film screenings, live music, a family circus party and panel dis­­ cuss­­ions, to name just a few. There will also be an “off venue” schedule, includ­­ing a drag competition that you shouldn’t miss! The highlight of the festivities is of course the official Reykjavík Pride Para­de which takes place on Satur­day, August 8 at 2pm, starting at Vatns­­mýrarvegur and ending at Arnar­­hóll with an outdoor concert! This is a celebration that attracts over 100,000 guests to downtown Reykja­vik from all over the world! www.hinsegindagar.is.

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Act Alone is a theater festival bas­ed on the art of acting alone or mono­­ drama, held in Suðureyri, a small fishing town in the West Fjords. It’s been held every year since 2004 and always on the second weekend of August.

Suðureyri is a beautiful and magical little fishing village, located at the mouth of Súgandafjörður, one of the most westerly fjords of the West Fjords peninsula. It has guesthouses, a coffeehouse and a great outdoor swimming pool.

WHAT: The Great Fish Day WHEN: 6-9 August WHERE: Dalvík

The Act Alone Festival not only has theater shows but also dance, music, poetry and magic. Artists through the years have been both from Iceland and abroad. This year the Act Alone Festival has great artists performing, for example Þórarinn Eldjárn (writer), Lára Rúnars (musician) and the hilarious Kenneth Máni (Actor Björn Thors).

All events are free of charge and this year the Act Alone team are even offering free bus rides from Ísafjörður to Suðureyri and back throughout the festival!

The Great Fish Day is an annual festi­­val in the fishing town of Dalvík. On Saturday the 8th of August, local fish processors and other fishing en­­thusiasts in town invite guests to a seafood buffet from 11am to 5 pm at the harbor.

The menu can be quite innovative and this year’s menu in­cludes raw whale and sashimi, fish burgers, courses made from shrimp, herring, cod and arctic char, delicious fish soups and stews, dried fish and fish-and-chips. Of course, everything is swall­ow­ed down with bread and beverages.

Twelve grill stations and an eight meter long barbecue with twenty gas burners are ready to produce a buffet for thousands of guests. During the first eight years of the festival no less than 200,000 guests have taken part in the feast.

Between courses, guests can walk around the harbor and enjoy diverse entertainment; a fish exhibition where multiple fish species are on display, a cruise on the fjord, art shows, street theater and on the big stage there are live concerts and entertainment throughout the day.

Dalvík is a beautiful fishing town of 2,100 people and spectacular moun­­tains, 45 km north of Akureyri in the north of Iceland. Other recreation in Dalvik includes canoeing, whale watching, angling, golf and horse riding. The swimming pool of Dalvík is also very good with hot tubs, a steam bath and a waterslide. If you are traveling around the north in the beginning of August be sure not to miss the Great Fish Day. It truly is great!

www.Actalone.net

www.fiskidagurinnmikli.is

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WORLD’S SMALLEST WATCH MANUFACTURER

Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com

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What’s going on over here?

Hey

look!

WHAT: Arctic Handcraft and Design Iceland WHEN: 6-9 August WHERE: Hrafnagil, North East Iceland

WHAT: Kings of Leon WHEN: 13 August WHERE: Reykjavik

The 23rd annual Arctic Handcraft and Design Iceland is one of a kind show that takes place annually in Hrafnagil, just 12 km south of Akureyri in northeast Iceland. Over 100 artists and designers are selected to sell their exclusive handcraft, art, ceramics, cosmetic products, clothing, jewelry and design.

The artists base their handcraft on old Icelandic traditions. Some of the favorite materials being used are the well-known lava from Eyjafjallajökull, fish leather, the legendary Icelandic wool and the delicate skin of lamb and reindeer.

If you get hungry, the new harvest is sold together with jams, juices and other delicacies made from the best organic Icelandic ingredients. There will be fashion shows, markets, an exhibition on old tractors and a middle age camp, which will take you back in time for a brief moment.

We fully recommend that you spend some quality time exploring the core of the Icelandic culture in the great environment of Hrafnagilshverfi.

American rock band, Kings of Leon will be performing at the new Laugardals­ höll on August 13th. They will be supported by Icelandic rock band Kaleo, who recently signed with Atlantic Records and are currently working on their music in Austin, Texas.

Kings of Leon, formed in 2000 in Nashville, Tennessee, are widely known for their powerful live performances and have topped the singles charts in both the UK and the US with singles such as “Use Somebody,” “Sex on Fire,” “Closer” and “Wait for Me.” Tickets available at www.tix.is

Check out www.esveit.is for further information.

WHAT: Extreme Chill Festival (Beneath the glacier) WHEN: 7-9 August WHERE: Hellissandur, Snæfellsnes Peninsula The Icelandic electronica Extreme Chill Festival has been held since 2010 at Hellissandur, which is located under the roots of Snæfellsjökull glacier on Snæfellsnes. The Guardian named the Extreme Chill Festival as “Europe’s most picturesque festival location in 2012” which is not surprising considering the scenario for the festival is one of a kind with the legendary Snæfellsjökull glacier towering over Hellissandur, a tiny fishing village.

The festival has a great line up this year: Biosphere (NO), Mixmaster Morris (UK), Hilmar Örn Hilmarsson & Steindór Andersen (IS), Stereo Hypnosis (IS), Futuregrapher (IS), DJ Flugvél & Geimskip (IS), artist Snorri Ásmundsson (IS) and Studnitzky (DE) just to name a few. Make sure you get your tickets early because for the past years tickets have always sold out completely.

There are adventurous walking paths, beautiful beaches and just outside Hellissandur, there is the northern entrance to the Snæfellsjökull National Park.

You will find great accommodation for camping with WC and washing facilities very close to the festival location. www.extremechillfestival.com

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WHAT: Gæran When: 13-15 August Where: Sauðárkrókur, northwest Iceland Gæran is a music festival held in Sauðárkrókur, a small fishing village in northwest Iceland. Taking place for the sixth time this year, Gæran takes over the only woolskin tannery in Iceland and turns it into a concert venue. Hence the name Gæran, which is the Icelandic word for lambskin rugs, it also refers to how warm, friendly and easygoing the festival is.

The program stretches over three days with a Thursday night of singersongwriters, including the up-and-coming Axel Flóvent. Friday and Saturday consists of bands and bigger artists, including AmabAdamA, currently one of the hottest acts in Iceland, and Paul Oscar, one of Iceland’s most beloved singers. They will be accompanied by some of the youngsters on the music scene like the award winning band Vio and Icelandic music legends Geirmundur Valtýsson and Bjartmar Guðlaugsson. After the concerts the party keeps on going in Mælifell nightclub and guests of the festival get a discount on the entry fee. Bars around town are open as well so everyone can find something to do for the rest of the night.

Even though Sauðárkrókur is a small town you will find everything you need right there: shopping, dining, activities, camping and other accommodations, a swimming pool, a lot of culture and friendly people. Getting there is no problem, buses (Strætó) run from Reykjavík twice a day, times and prices can be found at bus.is.

Tickets to the Gæran Music Festival are available at www.tix.is.

For more information on the festival visit www.gaeran.is

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look!

WHAT: Reykjavik Culture Night WHEN: 22 August WHERE: Reykjavik With over 100,000 guests and 600 events, Reykjavik Culture Night is the biggest and most popular festival in Iceland. Held for the twentieth time on Saturday, August 22, Reykjavík Culture Night takes place all across the city with events on the streets, museums and even in residential gardens! This year’s theme will be squares so keep a close look. Reykjavik Culture Night spans the whole day with over 600 events, including concerts, street theaters and more, all of which are free of charge. The main objective of Reykjavík Culture Night is to encourage people to show their art, in whichever form it may be. That means that anyone can participate in the creation of an event resulting in a diverse and intriguing program. Everything from unknown punk bands playing in their backyard to stadium concerts with Iceland’s biggest artists.

The program ends with a spectacular fireworks show on the docks around midnight warming up for the party at the many bars of downtown Reykjavik. If you want to see Reykjavik dressed up in its finest, this is the day to visit. www.menningarnott.is

SPLENDOUR by Stina Nyberg. Photo: Casper Hedberg

Macho Man by Katrín Gunnarsdóttir. Photo: Geirix

WHAT: Reykjavik Dance Festival and LÓKAL Theater Festival WHEN: 25-30 August WHERE: Reykjavik

If you’re visiting Reykjavík the last weekend in August, you should check out Reykjavik Dance Festival and LÓKAL Theater Festival. Running 6 days from 25-30 August, this absolute bonanza of dancing, choreography and theater will be—as always—a bold and exceptional event. This year the festival will offer a full program of both international and local work and everybody is invited!

Check out the full program at www.reykjavikdancefestival.is or www.lokal.is—and don’t forget your dancing shoes!

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FROM REYKJAVIK

All year-round

se Purcha ket c your ti ard! o b n o

All aboard for adventure!

WHAT: The Night of Lights (Ljósanótt) WHEN: 3-6 September WHERE: Reykjanesbær, Reykjanes Peninsula

T

he Night of Lights, a family and cultural festival, is celebrated as the bright nights of summer give way to the shorter days of autumn.

This four day festival has become a fixed event in Iceland’s cultural calendar. Held in Reykjanes, close to Keflavik International Airport, the festival’s opening ceremony is a sight to be seen with 200 youngsters releasing colorful balloons to celebrate humanity’s diversity accompanied by the music of the official festival song.

The Night of Lights celebrates the ever growing culture of local art with musical performances, theater, great

food, open artist workspaces and museum exhibits just to name a few.

During the daytime there is a carnival atmosphere around the town with something going on around every corner, at every shop and venue. In the evenings there are huge outdoor concerts with Iceland’s most popular artists performing. The festival ends with a spectacular fireworks display, with the surrounding lava lighting up in the beautiful colors. This is a free family gathering, with something to offer for everyone!

www.ljosanott.is

WHAT: RIFF – Reykjavík International Film Festival WHEN: 24 September – 4 October WHERE: Reykjavík The Reykjavík International Film Festival is an annual event that highlights independent film making from all over the world with the focus on upand-coming filmmakers. It also encourages the interaction of film with other art forms such as organizing concerts, photo exhibitions and more. Over the last few years, RIFF has screened approximately 100 feature films from roughly 40 countries annually, with a wide range of dramas and non-fiction films. Honorary guests throughout the years include Jim Jarmusch, Mike Leigh, Ruben Östlund, Milos Forman and many more.

RIFF is also about experiencing new things and the Special Events of the last few years include Swim-in Cinema, Drive-in Cinema, Living Room Cinema, Film Concert, Cave-in Cinema, Hot Tub Cinema and a Children’s Program.

RIFF’s main venues are Bíó Paradís, Háskólabíó, The Nordic House and Tjarnarbíó (Tjarnargata 12, 101 Reykjavík), where the main ticket sale office is located.

You can see the complete program and buy a festival pass and coupon cards at the official website www.riff.is.

100% ING

May-Aug

VIEW ESS SUCC

We BB your catcQh on-board!

May-Aug

WE GO THE EXTRA MILE! Issue four 125 Book online www.specialtours.is / info@specialtours.is Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour

Virgo

23 August - 22 September You’re only easy going when it rains. The rain makes everything so clean and fresh, you say. Missed your son’s graduation because it hadn’t rained in a week and you had to scrub your driveway with a toothbrush, but whatever. Priorities, right?

Libra

23 September - 23 October Your life is going pretty well at the moment.

Enjoy it while you can, your mom has a scheduled flight to visit you in two days.

Aries

21 March - 19 April Twinkle, twinkle little star! That’s all the space we have for you. Sorry. Maybe next time you’ll get something really special in your horoscope… maybe not.

Watch this space.

Taurus

20 April - 20 May Signed, sealed and delivered! Once you’ve sent those rant Facebook posts you can never get them back. Much like when you’re drunk and text an ex. Come to think of it, you might need some intervention.

Gemini

Scorpio

24 October - 21 November Your lonely days are finally over. There is a family of rats setting up camp in your basement right now. What a treat to come home to. Yay.

Sagittarius

22 November - 21 December You should consider wearing a watch. It’s time you admit to yourself that your sense of time is really off. Of course, with your horrible sense of time you don’t actually sense it’s time for you to wear a watch.

21 May - 21 June

Capricorn

Friends with a Taurus? They might need some intervention, just fyi. You’re good at that kind of stuff, right? Oh you were expect­ing a horoscope all for yourself, were you? Sorry, my bad.

22 December - 19 January Tone down the crazy; Christmas is still a few months away. Decorating the front lawn and your entire house in August is the kind of thing that makes your neighbors dislike you.

Cancer

Aquarius

You’re really into that Guinness World Records book, huh? Just be careful and don’t do anything stupid! Try beating one of those gaming records; god knows you spend enough time on your PS3.

You little sister has news for you. Go on, ask her about it.

22 June - 22 July

20 January - 18 February

Pisces

19 February - 20 March

Leo

23 July - 22 August Your happiness is pissing people off. Try to be a little less annoying. Perhaps you should consider only singing in the shower.

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People who tell you you’re a good chef are lying. But thankfully for you, and your future dinner guests, there are a lot of interesting culinary courses out there so make it your mission to ace one of those. Maybe in your situation, take two just in case.

Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsence. Any accuracies, real or imagined by readers, are purely incidental.

WOW Power to the people

Issue four 127

WOW Sudoku But how do I do it?

Really, really bored? Here are a few sudokus to make time fly.

The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: Each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler?

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Issue four 129

The Traveling Inquisition

“The landscape always takes my breath away.”

by Gerður Harðardóttir Photos: From Lára’s private collection

Lára Ómarsdóttir is a well-known news editor and TV presenter in Iceland and works at RÚV, the Icelandic National Broadcasting Service. One of her most recent projects has been co-hosting Ferðastiklur, an immensely popular travel and culture program which she co-hosts with her father, Ómar Ragnarsson, another well-known media personality and nature activist. We caught Lára as she was coming down from the Highlands and asked her a few travel questions.

“Each time I re-visit a certain place I see new colors, new figures and a new perspective.”

I

n their program, Lára and Ómar give viewers a chance to follow the father/daughter duo as they travel, either by car or by flying in Ómar’s Cessna across the country introducing viewers to natural wonders, interesting people as well as sharing local tales and Icelandic folklore along the way. Lára’s work has found her flying over spewing volcanoes, exploring a botanical garden close to Vatnajökull Glacier at 600 meters altitude and feeding ham to a baby Arctic fox.

Which place always takes your breath away?

“Iceland. It doesn’t matter where I go or what place I visit in Iceland, the landscape always takes my breath away. Each time I re-visit a certain place I see new colors, new figures and a new perspective.”

What is your most memorable travel experience to date (in Iceland)?

“I’ve had so many memorable travel experiences in Iceland I really don’t know where to begin! Traveling with my mom when I was a kid, driving along the West Fjord’s coastline, which was unbelievably beautiful. Also trav­eling as a kid with my dad in his Cessna, landing on fields of grass instead of proper air strips and visiting strange, far-flung places and inter­ esting people. And then when I grew older it was traveling with my kids, introducing them to some of the most fascinating places in Iceland like Ásbyrgi, Dettifoss, Látrabjarg and other places my parents took me to when I was younger. Traveling with my husband, just the two of us, in the midnight sun, enjoying each other’s company, the smell of fresh air, green grass and the lovely view; that is also something I love to do. It’s impossible to choose just one trip over another; there have been so many memorable trips along the way.”

Any tips on things to do and see while in Iceland?

“I definitely recommend that you use the opportunity when in Iceland to visit the public swimming pools—any pool will do. You’ll find a swimming pool with a selection of hot tubs in each and every village, all over the country, and in the countryside as well. The water in every pool is warm throughout the year; it doesn’t matter whether it’s the summer or the middle of winter, the pools are always warm and open until late at night.”

Where are you heading?

“Next I’m off to Brighton to see my daughter receive her BS in Math. From there I’m continuing to Brussels to visit my brother who’s been living and working there for the last few years. When I return home it will be autumn, the perfect time for heading toward the southern part of Iceland where I’ll be out and about in nature picking fresh, juicy blueberries, crowberries and stone bramble.” v

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Issue four 131

Bankastræti 7, 101 RVK | www.cintamani.is

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– Visit our stores: 101 Reyk jav í k , A k u rey r i a nd G eysi r, Hau k ada l. w w w.geysi r.com –