WOW magazine - Issue 4 2016 by WOW air

e azin mag ISSUE FOUR 2016

ROMANTIC GETAWAY

PLUS: GET HITCHED IN ICELAND Y O U R F R E E C O P Y -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

WHATEVER THE WEATHER...

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WOW Power to the people

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Take part in a great adventure.

the

Inside Vo Descend 120 metres into a volcano and explore an underground world.

One of twenty places in the world you must see before you die. - CNN

I have never been anywhere underground that matches the grandeur and impact of this place. - The Sunday Times

Standing inside a volcano is a strangely emotional experience. - The Guardian

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Issue four 7

WOW Power to the people

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Issue four 9

COLLECT MOMENTS - NOT THINGS!

“Iceland had always been one of my dream vacations. The island’s untamed and beautiful landscape make it the perfect destination for a nature enthusiast. I’ve made it my goal this year to check off as many bucket list items as I can, and boy did I come to the right place. Not only did I finally get to come to Iceland, but I also decided to take my first ever helicopter ride. If there is one place you consider doing it, I highly recommend Iceland!

“MOMENTS LIKE THESE ARE MORE IMPORTANT THAN ANYTHING ELSE IN THE WHOLE WORLD”

“we actually got to land on an old volcano and were able to witness up close the untamed power of geothermal energy” I flew with Nordurflug Helicopter Tours and they made all my wildest flight dreams come true. Not only did they have lots of tour options, but they were super flexible with their departure times and were ready to work around my travel schedule. I ended up choosing the Geothermal Tour which was 49.900 ISK, no more than a similar snowmobile or super jeep tour except with this choice, you get to experience Iceland from the air. I’ll be honest, I was pretty nervous at first but the staff at Nordurflug assured me that I had nothing to worry about and they were absolutely right. Unlike being in an airplane, the takeoff in a helicopter is smooth. It feels less like you’re being pushed back in your seat and more like you’re heading up in an elevator! If I had any nerves left after taking off, they immediately vanished as I was captured by the stunning landscape that can only be fully appreciated from the air. . 10

WOW Power to the people

W Re ly sk Th na Ic a wh we th m m m wh ev

As ac we po lan go po to ro na

MORE ELSE

y made id they ble with und my hermal similar choice, honest, durflug nd they ne, the you’re you’re ft after aptured

We took off from the domestic airport in Reykjavik but I was amazed by how quickly the scenery changed from the city skyline, to lava fields and volcanic craters. The juxtaposition of human life versus raw nature is so blatant and beautiful in Iceland. Being up in a helicopter gives you a true perspective of the country as a whole. It really gave me a sense of how tiny we are as humans... especially compared to the rugged and remote Icelandic nature! It made me appreciate the earth and helped me realize that moments like these are more important than anything else in the whole world. This moment was worth every penny and more. As if flying wasn’t enough, on this tour we actually got to land on an old volcano and were able to witness up close the untamed power of geothermal energy. The area we landed in was clearly off the beaten trail! I got to stand right next to the boiling mud pots and hot springs, there were no other tourists blocking the view and no safety ropes holding us back… it was just us and nature.

The pilot was very personable, super knowledgeable about the country and has been flying for years. I was amazed to find out he has done aerials for some big film productions like Star Wars and Oblivion. Needless to say, he kept our tour very interesting!

"it was just us and nature." Once we got back to the office, it took me awhile to actually “get back on the ground”. This experience was so thrilling and incredible, I had to let it all sink in! It’s a no wonder that Nordurflug has so many 5 star reviews on TripAdvisor and is rated one of the top activities. I will definitely be recommending this to anyone visiting Iceland, as you have to find out how amazing this is for you! If you’re having any hesitations just remember, the only trip you will regret is the one you don’t - Kelsey Heide take.”

+ Issue four 11

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Power to the people

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IN THIS ISSUE 16 A LETTER FROM THE CEO 18 WOW CYCLOTHON For the third time in a row ultra-cyclist Eiríkur Ingi Jóhannsson raced around Iceland in WOW Cyclothon’s Solo category. But this year he did things a little different.

POWER TO THE PEOPLE – ISSUE FOUR 2016

24 THE ULTIMATE SUMMER EVENT The third annual Secret Solstice had both Icelanders and visitors flocking to Laugardalur Valley in the middle of Reykjavik.

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

ROMANTIC GETAWAY ANYONE?

vacation with that special someone is always a good idea and it just so happens that autumn and winter are the most romantic seasons to visit Iceland. The nights have gotten dark again, making it possible to light candles and fairy lights and soon the Northern Lights will adorn the sky in all their glory. Fall colors paint this otherworldly landscape in vivid orange and red which contrast beautifully with blue rivers and gray rocks, and the fall harvest is offered in every store and restaurant around the country. As the end of summer in Iceland draws near, we celebrate the coming of autumn with a special emphasis on love and romance. Find out why Iceland is the perfect place for destination weddings and honeymoons and check out some romantic things to do between watching the endless sunsets and sunrises with you BAE. In the words of the Beatles: “Love is all you need.” Happy travels,

ma gaz

THE HITCHED FOOD ISSUE WOW MAGAZINE – GET IN ICELAND

ine

Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir, editor in chief magazine@wow.is

ISSUE FOUR 2016

ROMANTIC GETAWAY

POWER TO THE PEOPLE three2016 2015 Issue four

PLUS: GET HITCHED IN ICELAND Y O U R F R E E C O P Y -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

On the cover Our cover photo was shot by professional wedding photographer Bragi Þór Jósefsson at icelandweddingphoto.com. The happy couple, Grant and Nicole, got married in Iceland and were photographed by Bragi at Seljalandsfoss Waterfall in South Iceland. Check out more of Bragi’s photos on pages 36-42.

26 THE WEDDING SHOOT OF A LIFETIME For a few days in the late autumn of 2014, professional photographer Kristinn Magnússon traveled around Iceland with Jimin and Daisy from China for one of the biggest wedding shoot we’ve ever heard of. 32 ROMANTIC HIPSTERISM IN ICELAND Discover the alternative romantic spots before everyone else does.

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122 WHAT’S GOING ON? …quite a lot, actually.

36 TAKE THE LEAP Wedding photographer Bragi Þór Jósefs son discovered a few years ago that Iceland was the perfect backdrop for wedding photos in any season and any weather. 44 A DAY OUT IN THE ICELANDIC COUNTRYSIDE Take a break from the city during your Reykjavik city break and discover the romantic Icelandic countryside. 50 CHRIS BURKARD’S COOL PHOTOGRAPHY After 24 trips to Iceland, this island of contrasts has practically become Chris’s second home. 54 MYTHOLOGY ILLUSTRATED Brian Pilkington is one of Iceland’s most beloved illustrators and has given form to some of the country’s most famous literary figures. 58 REVIVING OLD REYKJAVIK Step back in time at the Árbær Open Air Museum in Reykjavik. 78 WOW DESIGN Check out the latest work of designer Katrín Ólína, called Primitiva. 80 ÞINGVELLIR – THE NATIONAL TREASURE The centerpiece of Icelandic nature is the Þingvellir National Park were the oldest continually running parliament was established. It’s just right for a romantic day out and a perfect place to get married. 82 REYKJAVIK STOPOVER 24 hours doesn’t seem like much when visiting a city but we’ve got a great itinerary for a short WOW Stopover in Reykjavik. 88 THE VATNAJOKULL REGION Filled with contrasts, the Vatnajökull Region is a great destination all year round. 90 THE U.S. CUSTOMS DECLARA TION FORM What is this? Why do I need to fill this out?

Attention advertisers! Will your company be in our next issue? Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen. He’s just that good! halli@wow.is

118 THIS AND THAT …mainly this.

126 WOW HOROSCOPE What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed astrologist has the answer.

WOW DESTINATIONS 94 ONE WEEKEND IN THE BIG APPLE WOW air just added the Big Apple to its schedule, beginning late November. Get ready and find out what to do in New York. 96 CALIFORNIA DREAMING There’s nothing like an all-American road trip so why not take the most beautiful and scenic route of all? Highway 1 runs along the Pacific coastline, between San Francisco and Los Angeles which is ideal as WOW air flies to both cities. 100 M IS FOR MONTRÉAL Montréal boasts of many great museums and you can visit them all with the Montreal Museum Pass. 102 SEVEN DAYS OF SHOPPING Immerse yourself in the energy and eccentricity of London by visiting one of the city’s local markets. There’s one or more for every day of the week. 104 SLOW TRAVEL THROUGH BATH The historical and gorgeous city of Bath is just a short train ride from Bristol where WOW air flies several times a week. 108 THE ECCENTRIC JEWEL IN SCOTLAND’S CROWN Not only is Edinburgh a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but it’s also Scotland’s capital city and home to phenomenal festivals, which have the city buzzing with excitement all year round. 110 A FRENCH ROAD TRIP Road trips are all the rage. WOW magazine correspondent Cindy-Lou Dale took a memorable drive through Cognac country. 114 YOU WANT MORE? Check out the other destinations of WOW air. Where do you want to go?

128 BORED ON BOARD? Solve these sudokus. 130 THE TRAVELING INQUISITION As a travel guide for Pink Iceland, Guðni Kristinsson knows the best spots to visit and his favorite is the Icelandic Highlands.

WOW MAGAZINE STAFF Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Design and layout: Ivan Burkni ivanburkni@gmail.com Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman Contributing writers: Marvin Lee Dupree, Svava Jónsdóttir, Donna Tzaneva, Gerður Harðardóttir, Cindy-Lou Dale, Judy Colbert, Christopher Kanal, Eygló Árnadóttir, Krista Connor, Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir

WOWAIR.COM Tel: 00 354 590 3020 E-mail: magazine@wow.is Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit from publisher.

P.S. WOULD YOU LIKE YOUR VERY OWN COPY OF WOW MAGAZINE? Take this one with you or contact us through magazine@wow.is and we’ll send you a printed copy. You can also check out WOW magazine online at wowair.com.

Just North of Summer.

Keeping Iceland warm since 1926 Shop at 66north.com Issue four 15

A LETTER FROM THE CEO

Dear friends, Summers in Iceland can be nothing short of magical. The WOW story continues to grow and develop even faster than I dared to imagine. Last month we announced the acquisition of another four brand new Airbus A321s that will be added to our fleet in 2017 and 2018. This will bring our fleet of new Airbus aircraft to 17 in 2017 up from 11 in use this summer and more than triple our fleet since 2015. Such incredible growth always poses multiple challenges such as hiring and training new people who will continue with the WOW spirit and ensure you a safe and happy journey. We have more than doubled in size to over 700 employees in the last 12 months making WOW air one of the biggest employers in Iceland. I am extremely proud of our team and how they have been able to deliver through great team effort and collaboration often under considerable pressure. A big part of the WOW culture is also to have fun and that we do! This is reflected in everything we do, our colors, our planes, our marketing, our Snapchat and other social media and as I hope you will notice, the atmosphere on board our aircraft. It doesn’t cost anything to smile and we certainly encourage our people to smile and pay compliments to each other and our passengers on things well done while at the same time, of course, deliver a professional service on all fronts. I would like to encourage all of you to do the same. Take the time to say hello and smile to a stranger on your travel and I am certain that you will be greeted with the same making your journey so much more delightful. I hope you will have a wonderful time and we look forward to seeing you on board one of our aircraft soon again. Thank you for choosing WOW air. Until next time. Sincerely, Skúli Mogensen Founder and CEO of WOW air

WOW Power to the people

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WOW CYCLOTHON 2016

THIRD TIME’S THE CHARM WOW CYCLOTHON IS A TEAM AND SOLO BIKE RACE AROUND ICELAND, A TRUE ULTRA-CYCLING EXPERIENCE AND A GREAT WAY TO ENJOY ICELANDIC NATURE DURING ITS 24 HOURS OF DAYLIGHT. NO ONE KNOWS THIS BETTER THAN ULTRA-CYCLISTS EIRÍKUR INGI JÓHANNSSON WHO JUST COMPLETED HIS THIRD WOW CYCLOTHON SOLO RACE AROUND ICELAND. Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

WOW Cyclothon’s solo category was established in 2014 and Eiríkur has participated in the race since then. “Every race starts with the will to enter. I decided after my 2015 ride that I would come back for the third time in 2016 and made it my goal to get the gold, which was the only medal missing after taking bronze in 2014 and silver in 2015.” With this goal in mind, Eiríkur started training harder than ever before, especially after learning that Italian ultra-cyclist champion Omar Di Felice was signing up for the race.

Eiríkur (second from the right) and other solo cyclists a few minutes before the start of the race.

WOW Power to the people

RACE STUDIES “I knew then that I would have to up my strength about 20% before the race to have a chance. Training started much earlier for me than previous years, I went on three trips abroad and used my time at home as best as I could.” Eiríkur had to get stronger and lighter and change his race diet. “When you prepare for a big

ultra-ride like WOW Cyclothon you go over how you can win, what your strengths are, what your opponent’s strategy will be and what his weaknesses are.” It looked like Omar di Felice would be Eiríkur’s strongest competitor and most likely to win, so Eiríkur studied him carefully finding out everything he could about the Italian. “I got the sense that he was likely an overconfident and emotional rider. I learned that he likes to ride fast at the beginning of a race so I estimated that he would go full-power for the first 200-300 km and hoped he would underestimate me as I am new to ultra-cycling, have never competed abroad and don’t have the ideal physique of a cyclist.” PLANNING AHEAD Eiríkur knew from his previous participation that he had not reached his limits and there was much room for improvement. “This was my reason for doing WOW Cyclothon again; I just

needed to push myself and train harder.” With this in mind and everything he’d learned about his opponent, Eiríkur came up with two plans. Eiríkur’s optimistic plan relied on him outrunning Omar without pushing too hard and having gained a 100 km lead after Lake Myvatn in North Iceland, c.a. 500 km after the start. “After that, I would simply keep it up throughout the competition.” The realistic plan was a little more thought out. “I would only pass Omar when it was completely effortless and I’d tire him out by not letting him sleep, seeing that one of my greatest strengths is my ability to stay awake for extreme lengths of time. By staying behind, it would be him that would have to worry about the gap and therefore there would be more mental pressure on him. I would also be able to get him to think, ‘How can he keep up with me?’” Eiríkur planned to use the Öxi mountain road as his breakaway, assuming Omar would not bring a mountain bike and therefore he would be really slow going down the steep gravel road. THE RACE IS ON The race started at the Egilsholl Stadium on the edge of Reykjavik City. “We had a strong headwind coming onto our left side. Omar rode behind and to the side of the pace car, drafting it for a total of 12 km. For some reason, he never received a penalty for this! It did not worry me that this would happen again during the race because I had a surveillance crew following him to ensure fair play.”

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16 -14 4 0 - H V Í TA H Ú S I Ð / S Í A

When the pace car turned away, Eiríkur and Omar made a break and rode fast through Hvalfjörður. “I was able to keep up with Omar without pushing too hard but at the end of Hvalfjörður [90 km from the start] I had to make a quick stop due to severe pain in the feet that had been escalating from the start. I’d had my feet taped before the race and it was too tight and hurting me badly. I knew I could not endure this any longer and if I would push on I would most likely get injured.” This pause gave Omar a short lead which he held for the next 300 km. Shortly before reaching Akureyri, Eiríkur passed Omar and they rode through the town together. Omar stopped at the last gas station in town but Eiríkur kept going. “He reached me again at the Víkursskarð Pass in Eyjafjordur and passed me up the hill but I caught him again going down.” “I’d had a short stop in Hrútafjörður to change clothes and saw that I would have to follow my realistic plan. He was slowing down which fit perfectly to what I had learned. Now it was time to execute the plan, keep my distance and see if I could tire him out by not letting him sleep.”

WOW Power to the people

DOWN ON HIS KNEE When Eiríkur reached Lake Mývatn, his knee, which had been bothering him since Blönduós, was out. “I could only ride 13 km/h with both legs. I tried riding with one and could hold 20 km/h. After a short ride like this, I stopped and my team and I had a look at the knee which was horribly swollen. At this point, I feared the race was over for me. I could hardly bend my knee and we decided that I would cool it down in the cold lake.” Eiríkur managed to get back on the bike and pushed on. “I was surprised that Omar had not used the chance at Lake Mývatn and made a breakaway. Instead he’d rested. This fact showed me that my goal of exhausting him was working; he would stop every time I did, so I was controlling his rest which was my plan.” After battling the wind over the Möðrudalsöræfi wilderness and down Jökulsárdalur Valley, Eiríkur cut the gap and finally reached Omar again (650 km from the start). He was resting in his car and I knew this was the perfect opportunity to make my breakaway. A nice hill was coming up, then the town of Egilsstaðir and finally the

Eiríkur was in great spirits with friends and family just before hitting the Ring Road around Iceland.

Öxi mountain road. This was my chance. I rode as fast as I could without overexerting myself and when I reached Egilsstaðir, my team took a short break there. Meanwhile I pushed on and when my team reached me again they told me that I had a 7.5 km lead, so now I had to push hard to Öxi.” STRETCHING THE LEAD Shortly before reaching the top, Eiríkur’s team had his mountain bike ready. “Finally, I would get to ride my favorite part of the trip. I have always enjoyed racing full speed down Öxi and done so quite fast the past two years but shortly after starting downhill, I was spinning on the pedals. Crap! I had forgotten to change out my 28 tooth chain ring for my 38CR! Well, it was a free ride down Öxi, and then I coasted and pedaled the flat spots when needed. The car caught up with me a lot sooner than in the past two years.” Eiríkur switched back to the racer and by this time he had gained a much bigger lead, 15 km plus, and now he had to push as hard as he could. “Reaching East Iceland, after Öxi has always been a relief—no more mountains and the beautiful southeastern

Eiríkur reaching the finish line. Eiríkur’s mother (to the right) has driven his support car around Iceland all three years he’s competed.

lead winds—but not this year. I was greeted by a southwest headwind which was absolutely horrible. We had been battling the wind the entire race and now we would have to battle it some more through the second half of the race!” By the time Eiríkur reached Vík in Mýrdalur, he had stretched his lead to 40 km and knew that it would be nearly impossible for Omar to catch up. Luckily

there was no more wind after Vík. “I’ve always pushed hard after Vík during my two previous WOW Cyclothon races. This time was no different. My speed was approximately 32 km/h towards Markarfljót River after which it was around 29 km/h until reaching the turn to Selfoss.” Around this time, the first B cate gory teams had started to pass Eiríkur and congratulate him, so did numerous race followers who

were driving on the south coast. “I had many followers clap and cheer me on which helps a lot to lift the spirit.” ARE WE THERE YET? Getting closer to the turn to Selfoss, it was obvious that Omar was not going to catch up. Eiríkur had an almost 90-minute lead, so he and the team decided to slow down a little. “When we were at the turn I asked

We’re expecting a busy summer but you can check-in 2 1/2 hours before departure and have plenty of time for refreshments and shopping in KEF. We offer unlimited free Wi-Fi, many charging stations and a range of nice restaurants and stores. Icelandic design and quality brands tax and duty free at the Airport.

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‘So where is Omar now?’ After refreshing the tracking they gave me an ‘I’m sorry look’ and said ‘Eiki, he is 17 km away.’ This was still a good lead but only half of what I’d previously had. The team had got lost in the joy of the moment; we’d forgotten to keep track and my speed was dead slow.” Now it was back up to race pace with a short 2-minute penalty stop at Selfoss. “According to the race administration, I received that penalty due to my having a surveillance vehicle keeping an eye on Omar throughout the race. Their reasoning for deciding to give me that penalty is still beyond my understanding as watching and receiving information on an opponent during the race is not forbidden according to the rules and neither is having an additional car. And let it be said that my surveillance car never interrupted or hindered Omar or his team in any way.” THE LAST STRETCH Eiríkur and his team were back in racing gear and pushed on towards Krísuvík Road. “When we reached the Krísuvík Road turn, all that was left was to ride past the lake, then a nice short ride down toward Hafnarfjordur. So now we just rode slow again thinking ‘no hurry, it’s over.’ But oops! We did it again! When I reached the next to last hill, Aron, my team leader, came up to me and he had that look again. ‘Eiki I have to tell you; Omar has reached the turn.’ This time, I almost teared up. I felt like I was disappointing everyone. I got mad and switched everything on, making a sprint to the finish line. On the straight road before reaching the roundabout to the finish line I turned to look for Omar who, of course, was nowhere near me, but it felt

WOW Power to the people

like he was there and I surely did not want to lose after all this effort and all the wonderful people that had cheered me on. It was they and my children who’d made me push so hard. Eiríkur finished the race in 63 hours, 52 minutes and 32 seconds. “At the finish line I was exhausted. I couldn’t stand straight; my mind was blown. I’d done it!” THE COMPLETE SET Eiríkur now has all the medals for the solo category; bronze, silver and gold. “All in all, I had a great ride. I managed to gain a lead on a strong rider and I am very proud of my participation in this race. Riding for over 63 hours is no small feat, one I could not have endured without my support team and made easier by my sponsors, the people cheering me on from the road and the people following

the race at home. This was probably my final participation in WOW Cyclothon’s solo category; these last three races have been great and I’ve gotten better and stronger each time. I wish all future soloists the best of luck on the Ring Road.” NEXT STOP? AMERICA Eiríkur may have finished his last WOW Cyclothon race but he hasn’t quit cycling or racing; it’s time to move on to something a little bigger. “I see many places where I can improve my physique, technique and equipment that will make me a stronger and faster rider. Now it’s time to heal up, get ready for training and start on my next goal, Race Across America (RAAM), a 5000 km race that takes place in The United States of America. This will be a great challenge which I look forward to taking on.” v

Hug your bike and get ready for WOW Cyclothon 2017. Registration is already open at wowcyclothon.com and there’s an early bird special for the first 40 teams or soloists who sign up.

W E L C O M E

O N

B O A R D !

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Our service team is on duty 24/7 and will happily assist you at any time. Check out our tours and prices on our website. E-mail to info@rehe.is or call (+354) 589 1000 www.reykjavikhelicopters.com

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SECRET SOLSTICE 2016

We are family The third annual Secret Solstice festival was a family affair as Icelanders of all ages and their foreign guests spent a long weekend in Reykjavík soaking in the music, the midnight sun and the madness. WOW magazine correspondent Guðrún Baldvina was on site to witness it all. by Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir Photos: Vlad Solovov, courtesy of Secret Solstice

Granted, spirits were already high when the festival started on Thurs day, June 16 as Iceland had just played its first ever EU game in football and tied with Portugal. June 17th is our Independence Day and on top of that the sky was still sunny after a whole week (this almost never happens). EXPLORE AND DISCOVER As a 35-year-old Icelander, I’m naturally inclined to go for the big foreign headliners and I had plenty to choose from in that category. I am however well-versed in music festivals and know that one of the best things about this type of event is the chance to explore and discover stuff that you wouldn’t normally come across in your traditional musical outings. This is where it becomes helpful to have stepsons that represent the very youngest generation at Solstice and while I planned my schedule around Radiohead, Róisín Murphy and Goldie, they couldn’t wait for Action Bronson, Flatbush Zombies, Sturla Atlas

and yes, Radiohead because they rule no matter how old you are. THE SECRET HEADLINER The festival line-up also included a secret headliner. When I heard it would be Sister Sledge, it certainly did not light my fire and I won’t even repeat what the teenagers had to say about it. However, when the three women that make up Sister Sledge stepped onto the stage and proceeded to dance their ancient choreographed disco dances, we couldn’t help but swing our hips right along with them. The mood instantly lifted and the Sledge sisters, aged 57-61, proceeded to entertain all age groups equally. Hats off to them and shame on me for distrusting these veritable disco queens.

One of the best things about this type of event is the chance to explore and discover stuff that you wouldn’t normally come across in your traditional musical outings.

nowhere. Strong beats, fresh melodies and spot-on, poignant lyrics about a relatable reality have become the new norm which quite frankly is nothing short of a Nordic rap miracle. Artists such as Gísli Pálmi, Úlfur Úlfur, Aron Can and Sturla Atlas have won the hearts of teenagers and the respect of their parents. Young, Icelandic rap and hiphop artists really put their quality mark on this year’s festival. v

RAP IT UP The Icelandic rap scene is so happening right now that it’s been hard to keep up with all the good quality music coming up in this tiny Scandinavian island in the middle of

Pros The music of course: Kudos to the organizers for bringing such a cool and diverse line-up of artists to the festival this year. The atmosphere was friendly and fun despite the energetic youngsters and jaded oldsters. Both venues and vendors served a wide range of appetites. Cons Lines, lines, lines: The lines to see both Radiohead and Die Antwoord were ridiculously long and caused an outrage among some festival guests. To be fair, Die Antwoord was never supposed to play indoors. Their flight was delayed, so their slot was pushed back and moved indoors to keep with regulations about noise control. Some things can’t be helped but try telling that to thousands of pissed (and pissed) Yolandi-fans. Highlights No surprise there, Radiohead and Die Antwoord take home the trophy for epic performances, both groups giving it all to a most appreciative audience.

WOW Power to the people

Take your photos using a steam powered phone In Iceland, all electricity is generated from renewable sources; falling water, the heat of the earth and the force of the wind. Welcome to the land of renewable energy. landsvirkjun.com/visitus

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WEDDING RING ROAD-TRIP Every corner of Iceland offers a unique natural background that would stand out in any wedding photo. Wedding couples and photographers usually only allow for one day of photographing before or after the wedding, so the parts farthest from Iceland’s capital tend to get left out while the south coast and Snæfellsnes Peninsula are favored. In the fall of 2014 however, one couple was willing to take on the whole Ring Road in the search for that perfect wedding photo. Photos: Kristinn Magnússon – icelandicphotography.com

WOW Power to the people

EXTREME WEDDING PHOTOGRAPHY

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ristinn Magnússon, professional wedding and journalistic photographer learned his trade at the Art Institute of Fort Lau derdale and that is where his passion for wedding photography began. During that time, Kristinn worked with some of the biggest names in wedding photography in South Florida gaining valuable insight and experience. A FOUR-DAY PHOTO SHOOT “Jimin and Daisy contacted me in the summer of 2014,” says Kristinn. “They wanted to do a pre-wedding photo shoot in Iceland in the late autumn. It’s a tradition in China, where they come from, to have a special pre-wedding shoot and show the photos to friends and relatives at the wedding. Tropical destinations have been more popular for these kinds of shoots but they wanted something different and decided on Iceland as they’d heard so many great things and seen such beautiful photos of Icelandic nature. They were also hoping to catch the Northern Lights as seeing them is considered lucky in China.

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“The couple knew exactly where they wanted to go but they also wanted to use this trip to see as much of the country as possible. They rented a car and I went with them on a four-day trip around Iceland (in two cars) where we stopped at all the most famous locations such as Geysir, Gullfoss, Reynisfjara Beach, Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and Dimmuborgir in northern Iceland.” COOL! The couple found Kristinn through another photographer they’d been in contact with. “She recommended me as she doesn’t do these kinds of shoots but usually people find me through my website www. icelandicphotography.com,” Kristinn says. Jimin and Daisy’s biggest wish was to see the Northern Lights. “We were really lucky in that regard. On the first night, as we were driving in North Iceland these strong Northern Lights appeared. We jumped out of our cars to get a shot of them all dressed up in their suit and dress under the magical display of lights. The shoot had to be quick. The wind was howling and the temperature was right below freezing so Jimin and Daisy couldn’t stay out there

We were really lucky in that regard. On the first night, as we were driving in North Iceland these strong Northern Lights appeared. We jumped out of our cars to get a shot of them all dressed up in their suit and dress under the magical display of lights. too long. I took the shots just before the northern lights disappeared again. An hour later we saw another strong display but after their previous experience they weren’t ready to go out into the cold again.” DRESS UP Summer, winter, fall or spring, dressing warm is always key when in Iceland. “Because this was a late autumn shoot,

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Choose a card that suits your stay: 24, 48 or 72 hours

visitreykjavik.is Issue four 29

I’d advised Jimin and Daisy to bring plenty of warm clothes, which they did, but they still ended up buying more once they got here. It’s very common for people to underestimate the cold here. Also, traditional wedding clothes aren’t really made to keep you warm so you have to wear good undergarments.” “When you venture outside the city, especially during the winter months, you can’t count on the weather at all. That’s why I always make sure to bring plenty of warm clothing, like down jackets and caps,

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Kristinn says it’s very rare for couples to put so much time and effort into their wedding photos. “It’s usually just one day where we drive to either South Iceland or Snæfellsnes Peninsula.”

not just for myself but also for the couples I’m photographing. It’s so important that they feel good during the photo shoot.” TIME IS ON OUR SIDE A lot of time went into planning this big photo shoot. “I’d researched the known locations where we could stop and I sent them ideas and photos to choose from. They wanted to stop at almost every one of them. On the drive in between, we also found new and interesting places, like a rugged crawling glacier at Vatnajökull and a beautiful moss-grown field in South Iceland. We also went on a helicopter ride from Þingvellir to Langjökull Glacier and took photos there.” Kristinn says it’s very rare for couples to put so much time and effort into their wedding photos. “It’s usually just one day where we drive to either South Iceland or Snæfellsnes Peninsula. It was great to have all this time and the best thing was that I really got to know Jimin and Daisy,

so I had a much better idea of the kinds of photos they were hoping to get.” Time and effort really paid off. The photos look fabulous and Kristinn says that Jimin and Daisy were over the moon with the results. “They told me their wedding guests were amazed by the photos and that they were now very interested in visiting Iceland too.” EXTREME WEDDING PHOTOS Taking wedding photography to the extreme and giving it enough time just could become the next big thing. As an avid snowboarder and former rock climber, Kristinn is no stranger to Icelandic nature in any season, a good quality when it comes to extreme wedding photo shoots. “I loved taking on a challenge like this and I loved that this couple was willing to do something different and go all the way with this concept of using Iceland as a backdrop. I could definitely see myself taking on more big projects like these in the future.” v

ENNEMM / SÍA / NM69061

Spectacular Whale Exhibition

SK I

RÐ

REYKJAVÍK HARBOUR

GR AN

HARPA

AN AU ST

MÝRARG

ATA

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“Wonderful one of a kind museum!” Loved this museum with its life-sized models of 23 different species of whales! Interesting and informative exhibits, well worth a visit! The staff was friendly and helpful, and we loved the gift shop, too.

SL ÓÐ

Come and see full-scale models of the 23 whale species that have been found off Iceland’s coastal waters. Walk amongst life-size models, check out the interactive media and explore these majestic creatures in our family-friendly exhibition.

DA GA

Walk Amongst the Giants

We are here

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DISCOVER IT BEFORE EVERYONE ELSE DOES

ROMANTIC HIPSTERISM IN ICELAND So you have finally arrived in Iceland—home of ice and fire—a place alien to most of the world while simultaneously it is quickly becoming one of the most romantic spots in the Western hemisphere, with Icelandic wedding photographers being swamped with requests and with Iceland the background in many wedding albums. by Marvin Lee Dupree Photos: iStockphoto.com

Of course, while a sparkling glass of bubbly in the midnight sun at the Blue Lagoon is allur ing, there are always going to be people inclined towards a more authentic Icelandic experience, that is to say to experience romance in Iceland while avoiding some of the longer tourist queues associated with the top attractions. LEISURE ISLAND Some people prefer to partake in the gentleman and ladylike custom of the “flâneur.” This particular pastime belongs within the domain of leisure tourism since the emphasis is to experience life like a local, so if you have a like-minded partner, there are plenty of enthralling and quirky spots to go and things to do while inside and outside of the capital that will make you and your date feel like locals. ALTERNATIVE ADVENTURES IN REYKJAVÍK Downtown Reykjavík has in the past few years joined the ranks of top hipster locales around the globe, taking its place among veteran residents such as Islington and Brooklyn. By no means is this a knock on hipster culture. However, if you want to get the lay of the land—and feel more Icelandic and less touristy—while being romantic, look no further than this minor tract:

A view of Reykjavik. Photo: Nikolay Tsuguliev / iStockphoto.com.

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To start your quirky and romantic adventure, you must obtain a bike. This way you can experience the diverse options the city has to offer. It’s possi ble to procure one at Reykjavík’s Old Harbor. Once you have your bike, you and your better half should head over to Freddi, Iceland’s only arcade joint, at Ingolfsstraeti. At this distinguished esta blishment you can play a romantic game of Street Fighter 2 or NBA Jam and impress your partner with your retro gaming skills. After the audiovisual sports session, a purposeful stride towards the artisan bakery Brauð & Co, which serves the best buns and croissants in the entire town, is crucial. With these vital victuals secured you’re ready for a picnic at the botanical gardens in the Laugardalur Valley. After a fabulous lunch date, the seawater hot-tub in Laugardalslaug swimming pool is a great place to chill. After this intel As you may have noticed lectual journey, by now, you have increas you can bathe ingly moved away from just like a Viking central Reykavík and are in the Secret becoming more acquainted Lagoon in with the dating customs Flúðir. Less busy of the locals. Fortunately, than the Blue you do not have to bike Lagoon. back towards downtown Reykjavík for your evening

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The coastline of Valahnukur. Photo: Beboy_ltd / iStockphoto.com.

SOUTHERN EXPOSURE Many of Europe’s international airports are located in the dreary suburbs of metropolises or poorer parts of the outer city, so it is no small wonder that one of the good alternative spots to take your beloved to is close to the airport. In the sleepy town of Garður, Iceland’s oldest lighthouse can be found. The original was built back in 1897, while the “newer” one was commiss ioned in 1944. It is also the tallest lighthouse in Iceland. The surrounding area is considered unique since the majority of beaches in Iceland are black volcanic sand beaches. Once you climb up the Garðskagi Lighthouse you will be at a fantastic vantage point for spotting the diverse birdlife and with a little luck and the help of binoculars you will spot whales and seals. After a day at the beach in Garður, you can picnic in the surrounding area

des. Close to the Blue Lagoon are Sandvík and Reykjanestá. Sandvík is where Flags of Our Fathers was filmed and it boasts of magnificent black sand beaches. Numerous people visit this spot to stand on the continental bridge, which is symbolic of the meeting of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. For tourists pursuing alternative activities, the great surfing waves of Sandvík may be the next adventure for you. Back in the 90s, American soldiers stationed at the former military base in troduced surfing in the area and the thrill caught on. Be warned, though, the surfing around Sandvík is definitely not for beginners so make sure you and your loved one are fairly capable surfers. However, if it’s around the summer equinox, you are in for a treat; the midnight sun and the glorious view while surfing. Just make sure to crack open the bubbly afterward. Next, for some gentle entertainment, you can head out to the islet Eldey, which hosts one of the world’s largest gannet populations and on Valahnúkur, which faces Eldey, there’s a bronze statue dedicated to the now extinct great auk. In addition, the coastline of Valahnúkur is a geographical wonder where you can spend a lovely day without depleting your bank account.

ETHIOPIAN DELIGHTS AND SECRET HOT SPRINGS Before Iceland began breaking the hearts of former empires such as Austria, Hungary and England with its heroic feats in football, it was a bastion of the old ways—the Viking ways. The tumultuous migration of Scandinavian people across Europe and into new lands such as Iceland helped spawn an enthralling literary genre—the Icelandic sagas. Many Icelanders know these sagas by heart and one of the most beloved tales is the tale of Njáll and Gunnar. It is their historical fellowship and

The Garðskagi Lighthouse. Photo: Simon Dannhauer / iStockphoto.com

Rauðisandur. Photo: Daniloforcellini / iStockphoto.com.

Sandvík, Reykjanes Peninsula. Photo: starmaro / iStockphoto.com

since there is a campground nearby; alternatively, you can also bike to Sandgerði and enjoy rock crab or other freshly caught seafood.

MURDEROUS TRAILS OF THE WEST FJORDS Icelandic crime authors, along with other Nordic writers, tantalize foreigners with their tales of murder and mayhem but luckily Iceland has been a peaceful society in post-Viking times. Nevertheless, if you wish to visit one of Iceland’s most famous crime scenes, make your way to Rauðisandur beach. According to historical records, in 1800, near this pristine and tranquil

profound brotherhood that is the crux of the plot in Burnt Njál. In it the tragic fate of both men and their families has its origins in the mutual animosity of their respective wives, Bergþóra and Hallgerður, towards each other. So for a very cultural date, pack your bags, stuff your Kindle with goodies and head to the Saga Museum. The museum is in Hvolsvöllur, a town surrounded by lovely nature. Furthermore, regaling your date with the legendary tales of Vikings will indubitably score you brownie points. If you plan on going the whole nine yards it might even make sense to do some cosplay—just make sure not to attempt any feats described in the saga. After this intellectual journey, you can bathe just like a Viking in the Secret Lagoon in Flúðir. Less busy than the Blue Lagoon, the natural environment of the Secret Lagoon is capable of transporting you back to simpler times. You may even feel as if Njáll and Gunnar will jump in and start hammering out a truce while you are relaxing in the lagoon. The Secret Lagoon is a truly romantic experience made even more spectacular once the Northern Lights start dancing across the sky come autumn. And if you are dead set on winning the heart of your date, the cherry on top would be to partake in the Ethiopian cuisine at the Minilik Restaurant located in Flúðir. Now you know some of the alternative locations where only locals go, you might want to get there before everyone else catches on. v

date because one of the best places for a romantic dinner can actually be found in Kópavogur. In Kópa vogur, the tiny but lionhearted Bíóbakan (actually a play on words with bio products and cinema) pizza parlor offers pizzas named after cult classics such as Jaws and Gremlins. These are sourdough pizzas topped with fresh ingredients—hipster par excellence!

AN ALTERNATIVE TO THE BLUE LAGOON Being pampered like a Roman emperor alongside your beloved may sound like an enjoyable holiday getaway for many, yet others might resist such lavish affairs and prefer more adventurous escapa

If you do go to the Secret Lagoon try Float, the Icelandic floating cap and pads for an ultra relaxing experience.

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In the sleepy town of Garður, Iceland’s oldest lighthouse can be found. The original was built back in 1897, while the “newer” one was commissioned in 1944.

beach an adulterous couple murdered their spouses and afterwards were con victed and sentenced to death. Today, it is one of the best spots in Iceland for a romantic stroll. The beach itself can at times appear golden, red or orange de pending on the light. Later, a trip to Hellulaug, located about 15 km away or to Vatnsfjörður Fjord where the views are breathtaking is a great way to top off the day.

Make every króna count The Arion Currency Card is the best way for travellers to pay in Iceland. · You get a range of great discounts at popular excursions and tourist shops as well as selected restaurants, fashion shops, hotels etc. · Save money – You don‘t have to pay international card transaction fees · No need to worry about the currency rate · No need to carry Icelandic krónur in your wallet · Use it everywhere – The Currency Card is accepted in Iceland and internationally Get your Currency Card at Arion Bank in Keflavík Airport, or the next Arion Bank branch. Currencycard.is

Get your Currency Card at the next Arion Bank branch.

Issue four 35

DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT Professional photographer Bragi Þór Jósefsson is one of the more experienced photographers in Iceland and has been published in most, if not all, of Iceland’s biggest publications as well as many abroad. He’s known for his exceptional eye when it comes to interior and architectural photography but in the past few years, he’s really found his niche as a wedding photographer, using Icelandic landscape as a backdrop. Photos: Courtesy of Bragi Þór Jósefsson www.icelandweddingphoto.com

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TAKE THE LEAP

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TAKE THE LEAP “It all started in 2010. I got some inquiries from foreign couples who wanted to come to Iceland for a wedding photoshoot and I began to realize that there was a market here for this kind of photo graphy. I had a website made for this sole purpose, icelandweddingphoto.com, and immediately got a lot of feedback and more inquiries.” Mostly Bragi photographs couples who come to Iceland to get married but he also has quite a lot of pre-wedding couples. “It’s customary in Asia, for example, to do the wedding shoot well before the wedding.” THE APPEAL Bragi says there’s a difference between couples who get married here and couples who come here before or after their wedding. “For a pre-wedding or honeymoon shoot, there’s, of course, no ceremony so there’s no issue of exact timing and the location can be anywhere they like. With wedding day shoots, you have to narrow down exact times and they require more organizing. Of course, I always photograph the ceremony too and sometimes, for a big wedding I spend the whole day with the couple, taking photos of them getting ready and the party afterward.” Iceland is not known for its warm climate and sunny beaches but Bragi says couples who come here are looking for something different. “Iceland means different in their minds. Entering into this otherworldly environment appeals to these couples and they like the thought of nature playing a role in their wedding day and wedding photos. Many also want to escape the strain of having a big wedding party, so they come here alone just to get married. I’ve also had couples who saw my photos online and decided to travel here just because of that.” LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION At Bragi’s website, www.icelandweddingphoto. com, you can see some of the locations favorited by Bragi and the couples he’s photographed. “We select the locations together based on preferences and budget. When the day comes and we arrive at the location, they are in awe without exception. Sometimes they’re even speechless.” One of Bragi’s preferred locations is a small waterfall in South Iceland. “The waterfall shall remain anonymous but I’ve gone there many times

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with couples over the past few years. I also have a favorite season and that’s autumn; it has the best light and colors for photographing.” Bragi says he doesn’t like to plan too much for a wedding shoot. “Except for the timing, that of course needs to be spot on. But the rest I like to play by ear and I’m not afraid to make changes to plans if I think it will result in better photos.” BUT WHAT ABOUT THE WEATHER? You can get married in any season in Iceland, they each have their charm. And don’t worry too much about the weather. Weather, even bad weather, can actually look great in photos and it’s certainly no obstacle for Bragi. “I tell all my couples to wear warm undergarments and good walking boots. You can always change into fancy footwear during the photo shoot.” One of Bragi’s most memorable photo shoots happened during “bad” weather. “It was in March a few years ago. We traveled in a big jeep and stopped when we reached the middle of Myrdalsjokull Glacier according to the jeep’s GPS. There, in the midst of a snowstorm and thick fog, a district commissioner oversaw the nuptials. We couldn’t see a thing, least of all where we were. After the ceremony, we drove down to the famous aircraft wreck at Solheimasandur for more photos. The wind howled and it was Iceland is not freezing but the couple known for its didn’t let that stop them. The warm climate photos were amazing and and sunny perhaps that’s one of the beaches but Bragi reasons why this particular says couples wedding was so memorable.” who come here The proof is in the wedding are looking cake (so to speak). There’s for something no need to fear that weather different. “Iceland will put a damper on your means different wedding shoot in Iceland. in their minds.” Bragi’s available days for wedding photos fill up fast; the best way to see if he’s available is simply to send him an email at bragi@bragi.is. Even if you’re not getting married just yet you should follow Bragi’s @IcelandWeddingPhoto page on Instagram for beautiful wedding photos from Iceland and major inspiration. v

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Issue four 39 Keep moving

TAKE THE LEAP

A FAIRY TALE WEDDING Last May Claire and Alex got married in Iceland. “We had the service outside at Oxarafoss Waterfall and the re ception at Hotel Ion. Aside from the wedding night we stayed in Reykjavik, at Hotel Kvosin.” Photo: Courtesy of Bragi Þór Jósefsson www.icelandweddingphoto.com

Claire and Alex stayed in Iceland for a week and had planned activities for two days on either side of the wedding, so most of their guests stayed for four nights. “A couple of days after the wedding we also had a wedding shoot with Bragi Þór. It was the most amazing way to see some of Iceland’s beautiful nature and it was a bonus to get into our wedding gear again,” they say.

was a lot of work as we had planned activities over three days, but definitely worth it.” Claire and Alex say one of the best things they did was to hire a coach to take their guests everywhere. “It was better for our guests and it was easier to manage, allowing us to keep the group together, and it was a great way for everyone to get to know each other.

WHY ICELAND Iceland is where Alex and Claire had one of their first holidays together. “We absolutely loved it!” The happy couple lives in London but they say they knew their wedding was always going to be outside of the UK. “We first thought of Iceland after seeing another couples’ amazing wedding pictures, and the more we looked into it the more exciting the prospect became.” The wedding ceremony and reception were held on Saturday but the wedding shoot with Bragi was the Tuesday after. “For our photo shoot, Bragi was a wonderful guide and knew the best places to get the best shots. One of our favorites was an impromptu shoot in a field of purple lupines which had just started to bloom. In the distance stands a glacier—stunning! We had looked at some of Bragi’s previous work and picked out some of our favorite locations from there.”

ICELAND? REALLY! “Most people’s first reaction when we say we got married in Iceland is a surprised, “Iceland? Really! Why?” just because it isn’t a traditional place to do it. Definitely a conversation starter! Our guests were really excited; none of them had ever been there but heard great things about it, and were thrilled with the excuse to go. Our parents were probably the least enthusiastic at first. I

PLANNING THE WEDDING “About 18 months before the date, we went back on holiday and went to view some of the hotels and locations. It’s something I would definitely advise doing. By meeting the people we were dealing with and familiarizing ourselves with the locations, it made it a lot easier to visualize what we wanted. We also met quite a few people who advised us or introduced us to contacts who could help. We didn’t use a wedding planner for the whole thing, but as the day drew near, I did work with someone to sort out the flowers, and things like a hairdresser, which were difficult to source ourselves. To find the right people, the staff at Hotel Ion were so helpful and in most cases were able to recommend someone. It

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think it was because it isn’t somewhere they ever thought they would go, and didn’t know what to expect. (Also, some of our older family members weren’t able to make it due to the travel.) Our parents loved it, though, once they got there.” Claire and Alex have shown the photos they’ve received to their friends and family. “The feedback has been amazing. One person commented that it looked like “a fairy tale” and another that “Iceland is probably the best place in the world to get a stunning backdrop for wedding pictures.” v “For our photo shoot, Bragi was a wonderful guide and knew the best places to get the best shots. “

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TAKE THE LEAP

CREATING LASTING MEMORIES Emily and David got married in Iceland in August 2015 at the Budir Church. “It was just the two of us, along with our photographer Bragi, and Páll Ágúst, our preacher. Photo: Courtesy of Bragi Þór Jósefsson www.icelandweddingphoto.com

“We were already interested in traveling to Iceland, as we had friends who had visited and enjoyed their experience.” Once they realized how difficult a cross-continental wedding would be to plan (David is from Germany and Emily from the United States), they started looking into getting married in Iceland and everything came together from there. THE BUDIR CHURCH After researching churches in Iceland, Emily and David found the Budir Church to be such a beautiful and scenic place to have a wedding. “We looked through different blogs and wedding pictures online and knew this was where we wanted to get married.” Emily says and adds that Bragi’s website confirmed their choice when they saw his beautiful portfolio of pictures in and around the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. Then came the planning. “First, we made sure that we could stay in Hotel Budir. From there, we

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contacted Páll Ágúst to see if we would be able to get married in the Budir Church. Then we got in touch with Bragi to see if he would be willing and available to be our photographer. Everything worked out perfectly. Then we began planning the remainder of our holiday. The wedding was only a small part of our trip to Iceland, and the rest of the time we spent camping and traveling around the southern coast of Iceland and the Highlands. “The wedding was only a small part of our trip to Iceland, and the rest of the time we spent camping and traveling around the southern coast of Iceland and the Highlands.”

THE PERFECT SOUVENIR “Our friends and family were supportive and excited about our wedding in Iceland. They agreed that it was a beautiful place to get married and

create lasting memories,” Emily and David say. And Emily and David’s friends and family have been very interested in their wedding pictures. “They’ve been extremely complimentary of Bragi’s work. They thought the pictures were beautiful and many have shown interest in visiting Iceland after seeing the photographs from our wedding.” v

Bragi in action. Photo: Hedi Ben

Proudly Making Iceland a Hot Destination. We could talk forever about how interesting our clean energy production at Hellisheidi is. But, instead, let’s see what some of our guests at the Geothermal Exhibition have to say on TripAdvisor: “A must see activity”, “Bucket List”, “... interactive and inspiring”, “Now I’m impressed!”

ENNEMM / SÍA /

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We hope to welcome you too on your trip to Iceland at the most powerful exhibition in the world.

Only 20 min. drive from Reykjavík. A perfect stop on your way to or from the city.

Issue four 43 The exhibition is open every day from 9am-5pm. Please direct any inquiries to exhibition@on.is Tel: (+354) 591 2880 www.onpower.is/exhibition

A BREAK FROM THE CITY

A DAY OUT IN THE ICELANDIC COUNTRYSIDE From the moment you set foot on Icelandic soil, you cannot help but notice the mesmerizing picturesque nature surrounding you. After all, that’s the main reason you travelled to this part of the world, right? Text and photos by Donna Tzaneva

With so many diverse landscapes, it is hard to do anything else but gasp with amazement; one instant you’re looking at unbelievable moon-shaped formations and next, you’re contemplating whether those picture-perfect glacial structures lying before your eyes are real or not. When you’re ready for that long-awaited stress-free break, exploring Iceland’s countryside is definitely the right way to go.

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RElax - enjoy - experience

- Welcome TO Mývatnssveit www.jardbodin.is · phone +354 464 4411 · info@jardbodin.is

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Iceland’s a little gem full of surprises and this is continually evident when road tripping around the island. RIDING DOWN THAT OLE’ COUNTRY ROAD Route 1 or the Ring Road is the country’s most popular and scenic driving route, serviced by buses during the summer months (from June to October). Stretching a little over 1300 kilometers, this road connects most of Iceland’s cities and small towns, allowing easy access to its most cherished natural attractions. Here’s some pre-trip friendly advice from a “been there, done that, got the t-shirt” person: Prepare for the worst, hope for the best! Iceland’s a little gem full of surprises and this is continually evident when road tripping around the island—and the better prepared you are, the better your journey will be. Whether you’re backpacking, driving or bussing it, make sure you prepare and pack adequately: a car that fits your itinerary, good camping equipment (waterproofs, waterproofs), plenty of water, gas and energy bars.

WOW Power to the people

Issue four 47

Add an Icelandic patterned wool blanket, some light beverages and snacks and you’ll have the ideal romantic countryside experience.

WOW Power to the people

Driving off-road is illegal in Iceland because of the island’s extremely delicate nature. The so-called highland roads or F-roads take you through the most scenic landscapes Iceland has to offer from mountain ranges to stretches of flower-filled fields. However, these roads are rather challenging, especially in unfavorable weather conditions. Putting all that information aside and hoping that no sheep get in your way, from the moment you step out of Reykjavik you’ll be immersed in the country’s farmland spirit prevailing throughout the island. A WIN-WIN SITUATION From Reykjavik you’ve got two choices: you could either go northbound and veer off to Snæfellsnes or southbound and east along the south coast. If you decide to go along the coast, some stops that are not to be missed are Seljalandsfoss, Skogafoss, Vik, the impressive black beach and everything in between! If you choose to go to Snæfellsnes, you will reach a remarkable black church sitting quietly in the middle of the countryside surrounded by mountains and lava fields. You can also head towards the orange lighthouse and on the way back stop at Kirkjufellsfoss Waterfall. Both routes offer unique, unparalleled landscape, therefore, rest assured, either one you choose will be an unforgettable experience. Add an Icelandic patterned wool blanket, some light beverages and snacks and you’ll have the ideal romantic countryside experience. v

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FROZEN MOMENTS

CHRIS BURKARDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S COOL PHOTOGRAPHY Explorer, photographer, creative director, speaker and author, Chris Burkard, despite his young age is all these things and more. He travels the cooler parts of the globe to capture breathtaking photos and stories. Lucky for us, one of his favorite places in the world is Iceland. Photos: Chris Burkard/Massif

Josh Mulcoy carves up a nice wave while dropping in with a spectacular view of Mt. Cleveland on the Aleutian Islands.

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hris has worked in many high-profile campaigns for companies such as Apple, Toyota and Land Rover and he also played a part in what is perhaps the biggest ad vertisement for Iceland in history, Justin Bieber’s music video I’ll show you. “Surprisingly, a lot of my big clients find me through Instagram. I’ve always thought Instagram is like a living portfolio, constantly changing and getting live reactions. My style of shooting is just different. I’ve always tried to have my photos make people want to get out and explore.”

PART OF THE MOMENT Looking at any of Chris’ photos you’d think this was the work of someone who’d spent decades attending the right schools, traveling the world and building his career but Chris says he just “fell into it.” “I never thought my profession would be taking pictures, let alone documenting surfing. All I ever cared about was landscapes. I would use A kayaker paddles on Lake Maligne on a perfect morning in Alberta, Canada, 2014.

Yosemite National Park at sunset, 2014.

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my cameras as a means to document my quick weekend getaways, almost as a way to prove that I was there. You see I never traveled at all as a kid; ever. I don’t even think I got on a plane till my 20’s, so a camera was my golden ticket to get out of my small town. It was my vehicle to see the world and it was the creative method that really stuck. The opportunity to be in the moment.” Chris, in fact, did not go to photography school and says he is “selfthought” but what does that mean? “Actually, I just picked up a camera and started shooting. I began

by borrowing my girlfriend’s (now wife) mom’s camera and shooting photos while out exploring central California. I was able to learn by trial and error, which has really helped develop my style,” he says. “I did art in high school and loved it, that was all I knew, but as soon as I had a camera in my hand it changed all that. No longer was I stuck drawing or painting from a distance. I was part of the moment.” Today Chris has several books and films that he’s created. His latest book, The Boy Who Spoke to the

Earth, is about a young boy who asks the Earth where he can find happiness. The Earth responds and sends the boy on a journey to some of the landscapes that make the Earth proudest. GETTING WET The ocean and bodies of water are a recurrent theme in Chris’s photos and so is surfing. We asked Chris to elaborate on that. “Photography gives me the ability to spend time in nature and surf photo graphy is one of the most intimate forms of photo graphy in natural surroundings. Whether from the beach or literally in the water, it allows me not just to document the action, but to be engulfed in it

as well. I love experiencing the ocean as much as the surfers but I use a different medium to interact with it.” It seems Chris always has surfers on hand. How is that possible? “It really depends on where I’m going to take photos, but if I know there are going to be waves I will call a few friends and have them tag along. When we are not on the ocean most of my models are my assistants and friends that I bring with me.” “Photography gives me the ability to spend time in nature and surf photography is one of the most intimate forms of photography in natural surroundings.”

Eric Soderquist waiting for the right moment before he paddles out into the North Atlantic. Hofn, Iceland, 2013.

HOT AND COLD Growing up in the warm and pleasant Grover Beach in California did not make 30 year old Chris Burkard soft. He seeks out extreme locations and most commonly, cold locations, even putting himself in a certain amount of danger to get his shots. “I’m drawn to places that feel and look wild. I think it’s human nature to want to see these places, but the reality is most people don’t want to put in the time to find them. So, a big part of what I do is to try to find spots that will speak to that aesthetic. The location is almost as important as who I’m with and what I’m shooting. Each place plays a huge character role in these stories. Whether I’m on a remote beach in Norway or somewhere in Russia, I want to be in a place that people naturally associate with adventure.” Chris says Iceland got on his radar because he heard there were amazing empty waves here. He decided to check it out and has now visited Iceland over 20 times. “Yes I know that sounds crazy, but Iceland is such a diverse country. There are so many different places to take photos. I haven’t even been able to explore everywhere I’ve wanted to yet,” he explains, and then gives some of his choice locations. “Southern Iceland—the waves are great down there. Some of my favorite spots are the town of Vik, Seljalandsfoss Waterfall, and the Blue Lagoon.” v

Check out more of Chris Burkard’s amazing photos on his Instagram profile, www.instagram.com/chrisburkard or go to www.chrisburkard.com.

GET YOUR DESIGNER BR ANDS TA X F R E E AT K E F L AV I K A I R P O R T

Issue four 53

MYTHOLOGY ILLUSTRATED

FOR THE LOVE OF TROLLS One of Iceland’s most beloved illustration artists is Brian Pilkington, an Englishman who’s won Icelanders over with his beautiful depictions of trolls and Yule lads in Icelandic nature. Brian has written and illustrated several books on Icelandic mythology; from trolls and Yule lads to elves, and they have been translated into several languages from German to Japanese. Photos and illustrations: Courtesy of Brian Pilkington

“I arrived into the world startled and confused on the 20th July 1950. The house that I grew up in was on July Road, one of the hundreds of identical working men’s tenements in a gray, war-scarred Liverpool. Color wasn’t discovered until around the time the Beatles Sergeant Peppers’ came out,” says Brian of his origin. FROM DYSLEXIA TO THE DRAWING BOARD “My education was severely impaired by dyslexia, a word not known back then. I was poor at all things that required reading... English, history, geography, etc. but excelled in all the practical subjects, art, tec A Giant Love hnical drawing, Story was math... So it seemed an instant I should head in success. It the direction of the had to be reprinted twice arts.” Brian left school before the first Christmas and at 14 with hardly any qualifications sold to over 15 but soon he got a countries in job as an apprentice the first year. illustrator. “It was five years’ hard labor which in cluded one day a week at Liverpool Art College where John Lennon had hung out ten years earlier, plus, two nights a week of life drawing. At the conclusion of the five years, I decided to do a threeyear B.A. course at Leicester Art School, where I achieved a fairly high degree and had lots of fun in the process.” In college, Brian made a friend who spent a lot of time in Iceland and in 1976 he decided to visit him there for a couple of weeks. “I had a riotous time! So towards the end of my time, I check ed out an advertising agency to see if there were any openings. They took my coat, sat me down and started me straight away.” Thus began the love story between Brian and Iceland but it was another kind of love story that put him on the map in Iceland’s literary world.

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A GIANT LOVE STORY “I had worked at the agency for a couple of years when I was asked by a publisher if I would like to illustrate Ástasaga úr fjöllunum (A Giant Love Story) by Guðrún Helgadóttir. This was a big enough lump of work for me to go freelance and stop at the agency. I have worked for myself ever since.” A Giant Love Story was an instant success. It had to be reprinted twice before the first Christmas and sold to over 15 countries in the first year. Here Brian’s relationship with trolls and Yule Lads began. “It was a book about trolls that was very successful. But after this, there were no further offers to work on troll themed books. The only way to continue my interest was to write the texts myself. The Yule lads were a natural progression from trolls because both their parents are trolls,” Brian explains. “Both the trolls and Yule Lads are wonderful to work on because they require no reference and I have only my imagination to rely on. Over the centuries Icelandic artists and illustrators have hardly touched on the subject. So I basically had a free hand and a clean sheet to do as I saw fit.” When asked about inspiration Brian says inspiration is a tricky customer. “You don’t so much go looking for it as it comes looking for you. You just have to be ready to recog nize it and welcome it with open arms when it does.”

Issue four 55

DEVELOPING THE STORY Brian’s illustrations are very distinctive and it would be fair to say that all Icelanders know when an illustration is made by him but how would he describe his style? “It might sound awfully grand and pretentious, but I like the formal classic style of Rembrandt and the play fulness of Disney. I endeavor to emulate both (without great success). I think you have to aim high, even if you don’t get close, little bits of information will be picked up each time you have a go.” Brian does all his illustrations by hand, using mainly watercolor and gouache, usually on colored paper. “I have no technological skills, so I never use a computer. It’s all very old-fashioned but I stubbornly stick to it.” According to Brian, all his works start off with the question ‘What would be fun to illustrate?’ “Once I have decided that, I develop the characters and the story line together. Both remain malleable and can be pushed and pulled into shape until it reaches a conclusion. It is a fun process,” he explains. “One book I have done developed differently from all the others. It also has my favorite title – Trolls – Philosophy and Wisdom. I did all the illustrations strictly for the pleasure of doing them. There were troll portraits, trolls in landscape... When I realized I had a body of work it only then occurred to me that I should put it together in book form. For that reason, I think it might be my favorite, but I spend a fair chunk of my life working on each book, so I have a certain fondness for all of them. A bit like children I suppose.” Brian also has a favorite character to illustrate. “Without hesitation it is Grýla! She is a giant smelly, malevolent, child eating troll. You can’t help but love her. She is such a wicked, vile, dark character and she naturally falls off the end of my pencil. I have illustrated her many times and written and illustrated a book starring her called A fortnight before Christmas.” Brian seems married to the life of trolls and Yule Lads for the foreseeable future. “I am still living in Iceland, still enjoying it, and still working on troll projects. I have a comfortable studio at home. I am married with two boys... still at home. Still startled and confused!” v “I spend a fair chunk of my life working on each book, so I have a certain fondness for all of them. A bit like children I suppose.”

Brian’s books are available at most bookstores in Iceland and in Keflavik Airport. For a great souvenir to take home from Iceland, check out Icelandic Trolls, Trolls – Philosophy and Wisdom, The 13 Yule Lads and A Giant Love Story by author Guðrún Helgadóttir.

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Issue four 57

WOW Power to the people

REYKJAVIK LOVES ...

BRINGING OLD REYKJAVÍK TO LIFE Would you like to learn how Reykjavík developed from a few scattered farms into the capital of Iceland? Then step back in time at the Árbær Open Air Museum, set high on a hill in Reykjavik with turf and timber houses, a small farm and a village square.

Opened in 1957, the Árbær Open Air Museum comprises of a collection of over twenty original homes presenting what life in Reykjavík was like in the olden days. During the summer months, staff wear period costumes, and domestic animals graze around the site, but whatever time of the year you visit you will find plenty to whet your interest. WAYS OF THE PAST While you’re there, make sure to visit the “CONSUMPTION” exhibition which shows the huge and rapid changes that took place in consumption patterns in Reykjavík during the 20th century. You can also check out the “BETWEEN THE LINES” exhibition which examines the world of women, and how they managed to earn an income as a

While you’re there, make sure to visit the “CONSUMP TION” exhibition which shows the huge and rapid changes that took place in consumption patterns in Reykjavík during the 20th century.

sideline to their work as housewives mothers to help support their families. The methods they used reflect their skills, ingenuity and expertise. The Árbær Open Air Museum is suitable for guests of all ages and includes a playground and a toy exhibition where children can play freely. The museum is open every day during the summer from 10 am-5 pm. Guided tours are offered daily all year round at 1 pm. Admission for 18+ is ISK 1,500. Under 18 is free. v Árbær Open Air Museum is a part of Reykjavík City Museum which comprises five individual sites. The other four sites are The Settlement Exhibition, Reykjavík Maritime Museum, Reykjavík Museum of Photography and Viðey Island. For further information, please go to www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is

“The icelandic museum of rock 'n' roll is as eccentric in it's telling as the tale it celebrates” david fricke, rolling stone.

The museum is located in keflavík / 5 minutes from keflavik international airport. for more go to / rokksafn.is

Issue four 59

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The Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20 a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: info@lebowskibar.is www.lebowskibar.is

Lebowski Bar

THE REYKJAVIK VENUE THAT ROCKS! From the entrepreneurs that brought you Café Oliver and Vegamot, comes Lebowski Bar. You can take a quick guess where the name and inspiration comes from and even if you didn’t like the infamous 1998 movie we are certain you will love this bar.

ust walking into this retro American bar puts a smile on your face and the mood is very 1960’s. You can hang out at the old fashioned porch and imagine you are in a real action movie. They don’t make bars like that anymore … oh wait they do, this one! Four big screens adorn the walls, so it’s also a great place to hang out when there are big events and sporting highlights to be seen. And there’s also an “outside” area decorated in a zappy Miami-sunshine yellow that will cheer even the dullest of days.

Dine and jive Lebowski Bar really captures the diner style with cosy booths and a fabulous jukebox containing over 1,600 songs guaranteed to get those hips swaying. If that’s not enough there’s a DJ on every night of the week so you won’t feel the pressure of selecting all the music by yourself. The menus are the biggest in Iceland … no literally! Their physical dimensions are huge! Doesn’t everyone say that size really does matter? Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarnaise sauce option and succulent beef tenderloin. If that’s not enough, choose from one of the 12 kinds of milkshakes to go with it.

“Careful man, there’s a beverage here!” Jeffrey ‘the Dude’ Lebowski, the protagonist of the Coen brother’s comedy, is renowned for his penchant for ‘White Russians’ – vodka based cocktails featuring coffee liqueurs and cream or milk. The Lebowski Bar has taken this now-iconic drink to a new level, offering an astounding 18 varieties of White Russian, along with an extensive bar list.

Bowling at the bar The real icing on the Lebowski cake, however, is the bar’s genuine bowling lane – it’s a classic. How

many bars have a bowling lane? In Iceland, not many, unless you count the bars at actual bowling alleys that certainly don’t have the cool vibe of Le bowski Bar. DJs and a bass player add to the music mix at weekends and there’s room to dance. Check it out dudes, you’re guaranteed a good time. v

Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarn aise sauce option and succulent beef tenderloin.

Lebowski Bar is my favorite place to hang out at. I love grabbing a good beer, a burger & topping it with a delicious milkshake. Lebowski Bar plays oldies music which makes the vibe like none other in Reykjavik. They also have happy hour from 4-7pm and who doesn’t love that! Bottom line, Lebowski Bar is a great mainstream bar where you can meet fellow travelers and have a drink with locals. Practice the word ‘SKÁL’ (Cheers) ~ Inga,@TinyIceland (www.tinyiceland.com)

FIND IT ON FACEBOOK and Twitter Twitter: @LebowskiBar - Instagram: #LebowskiBar - Opening hours: 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat

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Bar Ananas & SmakkBarinn Klapparstigur 38 101 Reykjavik E-mail: bookings@barco.is Tel: +354 774 4 404

A taste of summer Whatever the season, you can count on it being summer at Bar Ananas and just to make things even more interesting, they’re now offering a brand new tapas experience in a cozy establishment downstairs called SmakkBarinn.

eel the beach in the snow! Or at least have a little flashback while drinking cocktails with pineapple. Yup, it’s a beach bar in Iceland! A tropical theme designed to conquer over the cold winter. How COOL… WARM! is that? So when you don’t feel like doing that northern lights tour or going with all the other tourists into the Blue Lagoon, you can always check out the happy hour at Bar Ananas. Drink some cocktails and have the surroundings constantly reminding you of warm weather and the beach. Unique in Iceland because nobody thought it would work – well, they’ve all been proven wrong. Bar Ananas is a popular spot on the Reykjavik nightlife scene with cool DJ’s all the time. Below is a restaurant called SmakkBarinn which serves Icelandic tapas. You can even order from them and eat it at the beach. No reason to give up a good tan!

SmakkBarinn A cozy place in the heart of Reykjavík, Smakk Barinn and Bar Ananas are just a short walk from Laugavegur, Reykjavik’s main shopping street. SmakkBarinn offers tapas in jars and it’s all Ice landic with many cool combinations of food to try out. For the sake of variety, their menu changes all the time. Eating at SmakkBarinn is one thrill after another; you can taste everything on the menu without having to sell your car. All their tapas dishes are presented in jars perfect both for dining out and also just for getting a snack with some friends and still come out happy you didn’t spend a fortune on a whole meal. The next best part is the beer… Oh yeah! You can taste that too in jars. Whatever you decide to do in Iceland, you might want to try out some Icelandic tapas and party the night away at Iceland’s all season beach bar. v

SmakkBarinn offers tapas in jars and it’s all Icelandic with many cool combinations of food to try out. For the sake of variety, their menu changes all the time. Eating at SmakkBarinn is one thrill after another; you can taste everything on the menu without having to sell your car.

You’ll find both Bar Ananas and SmakkBarinn on Facebook Issue four 61

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Vegamót Vegamótastíg 4 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 3040 email: vegamot@vegamot .is www.vegamot .is

Very nice Vegamót

The all-in-one restaurant This elegant but casual two floor restaurant is located in the heart of Reykjavík on Vegamótastígur, close to Laugavegur.

he restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonderful quality of being an all-in-one, restaurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave! Here the decor is rich on the Mediterranean side and yet elegant with a jazzy ambiance. In the summertime tables are moved outside to the sheltered terrace, probably one of the hottest

places in Iceland during those short summer months. This place is famous for their ‘fresh fish of the day’, served all day from lunch hours. It has very reasonable prices for quality, portions and presenta tion and guests can choose from a wide variety of decadent desserts – if they make it that far. Try their excellent selection of good beers. Every day there is a special offer on bottled beers worth a taste. v

VEGAMÓT Opening hours: Mon-Thu: 11:00 am - 1:00 am Fri-Sat:11:00 am - 4:00 am Sun: 11:00 am - 1:00 am

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The restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonderful quality of being an all-inone, restaurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave!

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Issue four 63

Promotion

Hressingarskálinn Austurstræti 20 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 561 2240 www.hresso.is facebook.com/hressingarskalinn

Coffee house, restaurant & night club Hressingarskálinn is a warm place with plenty of seating and a great location in down town Reykjavik. It’s one of the few places that open at 9 AM to serve breakfast for hungry travelers or locals. Hressingarskálinn is a big part of Reykjavík’s history; the house was built in 1802 and the restaurant was established in 1932. The house has hosted Hressingarskálinn since 1932.

itting down for a coffee has a magnetic eff ect on Iceland’s most talented artists and writers. Smokers can have a seat on a heated patio with service all day. Over the summer, this place really comes alive. The yard is completely sheltered from the wind, allowing you to enjoy food and beverages in the bright sunlight. Thursday to Sunday is usually packed with people from all over the world. It’s a great place to meet strangers for

some interesting story sharing. Live bands play on Fridays and Saturdays, guaranteeing a crowd before all the popular DJ’s hit the floor with party tunes from 01:00-04:30 AM. The menu consists of great selections and offers everything from breakfast to a fantastic dinner. Hressingarskálinn offers Icelandic food for curious visitors. You can always try the traditional Icelandic meat soup. If not, there’s lamb or the fish stew – You won’t be

HRESSINGARSKÁLINN Opening hours: Mon-Thu: 9:00 am - 1:00 am Fri-Sat: 10:00 am - 4:30 am Sun: 9:00 am - 1:00 am

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disappointed. Hressingarskálinn is stylish and old at the same time, a history well preserved. Check out Hressingarskálinn for great prices and awesome fun! v

The menu consists of great selections and offers everything from breakfast to a fantastic dinner.

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Sakebarinn Laugavegur 2 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 777 3311 www.facebook.com/Sakebarinn

The one and only choice for Sushi & Sticks …SO YOU CAN CHECK IT OFF YOUR BUCKET LIST Located in a loft on Laugavegur, the main shopping street, in one of Iceland’s oldest build ings (1886) is a great new restaurant with a great view and an amazing atmosphere called Sakebarinn. In its beautiful location, surrounded by windows that look down on Austurstræti, (an extension of Laugavegur leading to the Old Town) and up Skólavörðustígur (known for its cafés, local boutiques and art shops with native works), Sakebarinn lies in the very heart of downtown Reykjavík. In the winter you can see the Northern Lights from the balcony and in the summer, the amazing summer sunsets over the harbor.

he owners of Sakebarinn have a keen interest for the arts and crafts and a wealth of creative assets to play with. Although Sakebarinn has a strong foundation in pure Japanese cuisine the current style of the restaurant proves that the owners are not afraid to break some of the rules. To them sushi is meant to be an art form. Along with its handcrafted sushi, Sakebarinn also offers a selection of sticks and other meat courses, featuring whale and horse and anything that’s fresh and interesting that day. Why live on an island in the middle of the Atlantic if you’re not going take advantage of the natural fauna? Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and with a little something for everyone. There’s love on every plate – You will feel

it with each taste. It’s no accident that the place is named Sakebarinn. It does feature the country’s largest selection of sake and a shot before a meal can truly enhance the feel of real Japanese dining. It comes in a surprising range of flavors too, everything from really girly fruit sake to the fire spewing alcohol content of some of the more butch types; potato sake, warm and cold sake and Japanese plum wine. And then of course are the bottles that didn’t make it on to the menu because no one could read the labels and therefore no one knows what they are. Mystery sake! Sakebarinn is a place born to showcase the talents the staff have collected over the years working at their first Sushi restaurant called Sushibarinn, which is located on the first floor in the same house. A year and a wild ride later, this sushi family has incorporated a

bunch of new and talented people with some great new recipes and skills they didn’t know they had and didn’t even know existed. The walls are hand painted by them, the wine selected by them, the menu is designed by them and the place is loved by them. They also love to present food so their clients become part of their love for sushi. The look on your face is what they are aiming for, the look of enjoyment. v

Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and a little something for everyone.

SAKEBARINN Opening hours: Mon-Sun: 5:00 pm - 11:00 pm Issue four 65

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Kol Restaurant Skólavörðustígur 40 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 7474 www. kolrestaurant .is

Cocktails and feel good food at Kol Restaurant BE PREPARED FOR A MEMORABLE NIGHT OUT AT KOL RESTAURANT.

ituated at Skólavörðustígur 40 in Reykja vík, Kol Restaurant’s design concept is a mixture of warm modern Icelandic feel with international touches and the furniture of designer Tom Dixon playing the central role. The restaurant is on two floors with an open kitchen and a mighty bar. Both floors are divided into spaces with cozy leather couches and a variety of different table settings. Kol Restaurant centers on the bar where the country’s best cocktail bartenders serve craft cocktails from the best ingredients available

and offer an ambitious cocktail list to begin and complete the dining experience. The selection is feel good comfort food with a twist on classic cuisine. The menu offers a variety of finger food, salads, fish, steaks and dess erts. The head chefs, Einar Hjaltason and Kári Þorsteinsson, have over 20 years of experience at Reykjavik’s best restaurants as well as work experience in several known restaurants in London, for example Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons, Dabbous, Noma, 28/50 and Texture. Don’t miss out on this

KOL RESTAURANT Opening hours: Monday-Friday 11:30-23:00 / Saturday-Sunday 17:30-23:00

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brand new gem on the Reykjavik restaurant scene. This is a great place to begin a fun evening. v

Kol Restaurant centers on the bar where the country’s best cocktail bar tenders serve craft cocktails from the best ingredients available and offer an ambitious cocktail list to begin and complete the dining experience.

Juice Bar

SANDWICHES & SKYR

Lemon offers fresh, happy and healthy food from the best possible ingredients.

Need some color in your life? Come enjoy some sunshine in a glass and dance to the beat of our music. Lemon is Iceland´s #1 pick for fresh juices, gourmet sandwiches and the delicious local skyr-smoothies - all served in a relaxed, cool & casual atmosphere.

SUÐURLANDSBRAUT 4 - REYKJAVIK LAUGAVEGUR 56 - REYKJAVIK HJALLAHRAUN 13 - HAFNARFJÖRÐUR HAFNARGATA 29 - KEFLAVIK 43 RUE DES PETITS CARREAUX - PARIS EMAIL : BROSTU@LEMON.IS SITE: WWW.LEMON.IS WW #LEMONICELAND 67 Issue four

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Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is

When in Iceland, go Danish! You know that Iceland used to be a Danish colony, right? Even though independence from the Danish Crown was necessary, Icelanders still celebrate everything Danish, so don’t expect to meet a big Danish crowd at The Danish Pub, they are all Icelanders just acting like they’re Danish. Really!

his bar has made a name for itself in the Reykjavik social scene and is known locally as Den Danske Kro (we all just want a reason to speak Danish in public). This popular downtown venue serves a remarkable selection of beers in cluding the famous Danish white beers, the darker more malt brews and of course the traditional and almost obligatory Tuborg and Carlsberg. If you come during the Christmas season you can taste some of the renowned Christmas brews, very popular in demand. Just ask for Julebryg (“you-le-bree”).

Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some darts, try the customary Gammel Dansk bitters or catch some live football. Watch the world go by on the outside terrace and have a taste of the tra ditional smørrebrød (fantastic open sandwiches). You can pre-order these delicious snacks for larger groups.

Does this sound too tranquil?

Do as the Danes do

The Danish Pub is nothing if not a place to party. The atmosphere is easy going and you can choose from a variety of shots and even cocktails if you’re not in the mood for a beer (Does that ever happen?).

The owners of the Danish Pub strive to create the true Danish atmosphere known among the Danes (and Danish-prone Icelanders) as “hyggeligt”. If you truly are Danish this can be your “home away from home”. And in this spirit, check out the “house” within the pub – an off-the-wall design in its most literal sense!

Reminder: If you thought you were in for a quiet night guess again, The Danish Pub features live music every night with special appearances and unadvertised happenings on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Put your musical knowledge to the

DEN DANSKE KRO Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 14:00 – 01:00 and Fri-Sat 14:00 – 05:00

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test at the Wednesday night pop-quiz; the prizes will surprise you.

Best local pub in Reykjavík Wherever you‘re from you’ll want to have a great time while visiting Reykjavík. The people of Reykja vík do anyway, so they flock to The Danish Pub for a beer “en øl” during the Happy Hour every day from 16-19. The place is crowded and you’re guaranteed to meet some fun, “lee glaath” people. v

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Kaldi Bar Laugavegur 20 b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.facebook.com/KaldiBarCafe

A breath of fresh air

Cool as Kaldi KALDI BAR IS ONE OF ICELAND’S MOST UNIQUE BARS. AN OASIS IN CENTRAL REYKJAVÍK.

t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmosphere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, there’s a great outside seating area in a cozy backyard. Known for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottles, Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew. Drop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local. v

Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmosphere in a rustic setting.

KALDI BAR Opening hours: Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 noon - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 noon - very late / Price list Beer on draft 0.5 – 1,100 IKR Glass of vine – 1,200 IKR / Happy hour 16:00-19:00 / Beer on draft 0.5 – 650 IKR / Glass of vine – 650 I Issue four 69

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Kopar Restaurant Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant .is / info@koparrestaurant .is

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor KOPAR RESTAURANT IS SITUATED BY REYKJAVIK‘S ROMANTIC HARBOR, IN ONE OF THE OLD GREEN FISHERMAN‘S HUTS.

he fishing industry still thrives in Reykjavik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the morning, fishermen go out to sea and return later with their catch of the day. As you stand on the pier you can feel the history of Reykjavik and watch the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and young kids with their rods trying their luck off the pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere of the old harbor is all part of the experience when you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant

featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans. They are especially proud of their crab soup, made with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the fruit of the ocean. Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She pre pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience. Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere,

delicious food and the best view in town. When visiting Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is a must. v

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She prepares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

KOPAR RESTAURANT Opening hours: Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 - Fridays from 11:30-23:30 - Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 - Sundays from 18:00-22:30

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Brygg jan Brugghús – Bistro and Brewery Grandagarður 8 101 Reykjavik Email: booking@brygg janbrugghus.is Tel: +354 456 4040 brygg janbrugghus.is

Bryggjan Brugghús – Bistro and Brewery Bryggjan is Iceland’s first microbrewery and bistro located at the trendy Reykjavik harbor-side.

ffering delicious local food in a cool atmosphere, com plemented by world class beverages brewed on site and pumped directly from the brewery itself, Bryggjan is large enough to accommodate up to 280 guests in its fun and lively atmosphere.

The Bistro A gourmet meal served at Bryggjan Bistro is an experience to be remembered. Bryggjan Bistro offers diverse, high- quality dishes, with an emphasis on fresh seafood caught off the shores of Iceland. Also served are traditional courses carefully selected by Master Chef Margret Rikhardsdottir.

The Bar and Brewery Bryggjan produces and serves a variety of beers and carefully selected wines. The bar has 12 beer pumps pumping beer straight out of the brewery, and their custom-made wine cupboard maintains a perfect temperature for its rich selection of wines. Bergur Gunnarsson, Bryggjan’s master brewer, applies his knowledge and expertise to pairing their beers with delicacies from the kitchen while Arturo Santoni Rousselle, Bryggjan’s wine waiter, carefully selects the wines. Dominik Roman Kocon mixes cocktails with utmost care and expertise.

The Brewery Room The Brewery Room can accommodate about 100 guests, and is suitable for groups and most occasions. The room can be closed off with beautiful curtains and is equipped with a projector, and all the modern facilities required for feasts, meetings or conferences. v

Bergur Gunnarsson, Bryggjan’s master brewer, applies his knowledge and expertise to pairing their beers with delicacies from the kitchen while Arturo Santoni Rousselle, Bryggjan’s wine waiter, carefully selects the wines. Dominik Roman Kocon mixes cocktails with utmost care and expertise. BRYGGJAN BRUGGHÚS – BISTRO AND BREWERY Opening hours: 11 am – 1 am every day Issue four 71

Promotion

Reykjavik Fish Trygg vagata 8 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 5656 Email: info@reykjavikfish.is www.reykjavikfish.is

Reykjavik Fish In the heart of Reykjavík, right next to the old harbor, you can find Reykjavík Fish, a new restaurant offering ultra-fresh seafood. Ultra-fresh means that the fish you order today was swimming last night.

he menu at Reykjavik Fish is structured to provide hearty portions of quality sea food at very reasonable prices. The crown jewel of the menu is the spelt battered fish and chips; crispy and healthy at the same time, a perfect meal with a nice Icelandic beer. If you’re up for something a little more traditional Icelandic try the “Plokkari” (plucked fish). Their recipe is the same as used in the old days except with fresh fish of course. Perfect location and Icelandic seafood at its finest. Reykjavik Fish has plenty of seats and welcomes everyone, solo travelers and big groups

REYKJAVIK FISH Opening hours: 11 AM to 10:30 PM

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alike. When you come to Reykjavík and would like to try a nice fish and chips just look for the big red door. v

Perfect location and Icelandic seafood at its finest. Reykjavik Fish has plenty of seats and welcomes everyone, solo travelers and big groups alike. When you come to Reykjavík and would like to try a nice fish and chips just look for the big red door.

LOFTIÐ // AUSTURSTRÆTI 9 // SECOND FLOOR FACEBOOK.COM/LOFTIDBAR

Promotion

VON mathús and bar Strandgata 75 220 Hafnarfjordur Tel: +354 583 6000 E-mail: info@vonmathus.is www.vonmathus.is

VON mathús

Seasonal Icelandic cuisine with passion and enthusiasm The idea to open VON mathús could be attributed to Einar Hjaltason and Kristjana Þura Berþórsdóttir’s enthusiasm and passion to realize their dream, but location and the demand for a diverse and local food culture, also played a big part in their decision. VON mathús emphasizes seasonal Icelandic cuisine combined with ingredients that complement the each dish perfectly.

Acclaimed chef Einar Hjaltason, acclaimed and experienced chef studied at Grillið, in Hótel Saga, one of the finest dining establishments in Iceland. He also took part in the opening of the Sjávargrillið restaurant. In 2012 he set his sights on England where he facilit ated in the opening of a new fine dining restaurant by the name of Dabbous, which, only eight months after opening, received a Michelin Star. After returning to Iceland, he became a head chef at KOL restaurant on Skólavörðustígur, where he recently resigned to focus on opening VON mathús. Kristjana Þura, managing partner at VON, is born and raised in Hafnafjörður and has extensive knowledge in the restaurant- and the hotel sector of the service industry, having spent the last ten years working in both.

Homey atmosphere In 2013, when the couple discovered their first

child was on the way, it was as if Hafnafjörður called out to the young family. Shortly before the arrival of their daughter in early 2014, they’d al ready settled in. VON actually means “hope” and the family now hopes to make their mark on the food and restaurant culture in this “town in the lava.” They felt that VON was especially appropriate for the optimism that is ever present in this port town. Einar and Kristjana associate “hope“ with “fresh and healthy,“ hence they place a heavy emphasis on seafood- and sea-based ingredients and strive to use only the freshest ingredients in their dishes. The fundamental concept of VON mathús is that there is always a homey atmosphere where personal comfort and professional service are interwoven. Their hope is that this combination along with consistently great food will make every customer satisfied and delighted whenever they dine at their establishment. v

The fundamental concept of VON mathús is that there is always a homey atmosphere where personal comfort and professional service are interwoven.

VON MATHÚS AND BAR Opening hours: Tuesdays-Thursdays: 11:30-22:00 Fridays-Saturdays: 11:30-23:00 Sundays: 11:30-14:00 Mondays: Closed Happy Hour: 16:00-18:00

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Montreal Toronto Boston San Francisco Los Angeles

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Washington, D.C.

Reykjavik

Stockholm Copenhagen Edinburgh Vilnius Dublin

Berlin Amsterdam DĂźsseldorf Frankfurt Paris Milan Salzburg

London

Bristol

Lyon Barcelona Alicante

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Nice Rome

Warsaw

WOW DESIGN

PRIMITIVA by Gerður Harðardóttir

Having graduated as an industrial designer in Paris in the 1990s, designer Katrín Ólína Pétursdóttir worked for various international design studios such as the Paris studio of Philippe Starck before establishing her very own in 2007. Renowned for her exceptionally rich, two-dimensional graphic design, Katrín Ólína has researched, experimented and eventually created a highly elaborate and graphic world of her own, which has quite accurately been described as a technological mythology. Katrín Ólína has explored and implemented this world using various media such as graphic design, illustration, fashion, print, animation, interior and industrial design. With the release of the Primitiva collection of 40 talismans cast in bronze and digitally crafted and produced using 3D printing technology, Katrín Ólína now ventures into jewelry design. Partly based on the book The Analysis of Beauty by the 18th century English painter, writer and satirist William Hogarth, Katrín Ólína takes Hogarth’s work further. She fast-forwards it into the 21st century by creating her own 3D versions and variations of Hogarth’s S-shaped curved line (serpentine line) when creating the basic unit for her Primitiva talismans. The Primitiva project, its beautiful talismans and the book Primitiva, Book of Talismans, was launched during Helsinki Design Week 2015 but since 2014 Katrín Ólína has split her time living and working in Reykjavík and Helsinki. Via text and graphics, she describes in details the world and ideas of Primitiva, the archetypal structure of the 40 different talismans and how they divide into 4 different kingdoms and tribes, each one taking us on a soulsearching journey within. v

For more information, visit katrin-olina.com

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AQUARACER CALIBRE 5

Cristiano Ronaldo is born to break all the records. His motivation is to win at every occasion to challenge the human statistics. Like TAG Heuer, Ronaldo surpasses the limits of his ďŹ eld and never cracks under pressure.

Issue four 79

Laugavegi 15 & Kringlunni - 511 1900 - www.michelsen.is

ÞINGVELLIR

A NATIONAL TREASURE Being as the only place on the Earth‘s surface where you can see the effects of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates drifting apart from each other makes Þingvellir a centerpiece of extraordinary geological significance. But it doesn‘t end there. Þingvellir is also the original location of the world‘s longest continually running parliament where the members of the nation‘s general assembly and many other friends and family would journey from the settlements around the country to meet year after year. Its incredible nature and rich history continue to fascinate the many guests that flock to visit this national treasure. by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: iStockphoto.com

Þingvellir (Assembly Plains) National Park is located 49 km from Reykjavík. The park is 230 square kilometers and is literally full of adventures and opportunities. The site is popular for hiking, angling and diving and for learning the history of this democracy. CHOOSING MY RELIGION Alþingi (the Icelandic legislative assembly) was established at Þingvellir around 930. It is the only Germanic assembly site where remains of administrative structures such as Lögberg (Law Rock) have been preserved. Another point of historical significance was that during a meeting of the Alþingi in the year 1000, Iceland was legally established as a Christian nation through a peaceful process. Of local interest, many remnants of farms, tracks and grass fields can be found within the national park. MYSTICAL The landscape at Þingvellir has beautiful and mystical forms. In Iceland we say that the hidden people live in the cliffs and it’s easy to imagine their king or queen or a whole flock of them in or by the cliffs at Þingvellir. If you happen to meet any of them, remember to treat them with respect. They appreciate it. The chief characteristic of the National Park’s landscape are fissures, the largest of which, Almannagjá (Everyman’s Gorge), forms a cliff wall and backdrop to the ancient assembly

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“To the Ice landers, Þingvellir is a symbol of national unity where the main strands of their history have been woven from the start of the settlement in the 9th century to the present day.”

site. These fissures are part of the national park’s rift valley, formed on the boundaries of the tectonic plates where they have been moving apart. Overall, the nature in Þingvellir is magnificent—the cliffs, the lava, the moss, the trees, the waterfall, the river... and the purity of the unspoiled nature. Then there’s Lake Þingvallavatn, the largest angling lake in Iceland where four biologically unique morphs of the Arctic char have evolved. You can both fish and dive in Þingvallavatn—a world class experience because of the excellent visibility through the clear ground water and spectacular surroundings. To have a look, search for Silfra on Youtube. Þingvellir was accepted on the World Heritage List for its cultural value in 2004. As stated in the Application for Inclusion in the World Heritage List Þingvellir National Park, “To the Icelanders, Þingvellir is a symbol of national unity where the main strands of their history have been woven from the start of the settlement in the 9th century to the present day.” THE ÞINGVELLIR FARM AND THE CHURCH The oldest description of Þingvellir farm dates from 1678. In past centuries, the farm buildings in Iceland were made from turf and rock but after 1880 they were gradually replaced by timbered ones. In 1928, a new concrete building was constructed. The designer was the then State Architect, Guðjón Samúelsson. The building illustrates how the distinctive Icelandic gabled farmhouse style could be adopted to the new building material of concrete. Þingvellir Church stands next to the farm. The first church at Þingvellir was built soon after Christianity was adopted as the national religion in 1000 and the present church, which is made of timber, was built in 1858-1859. It is a typical, old style Icelandic church and quite popular for wedding couples. Interested? If you only want to peek into the church, you can. A 17th-century wooden pulpit and a painted altarpiece from 1834 adorn the innermost chamber. In the small cemetery behind the church, the Independence-era poets Jónas Hallgrímsson and Einar Benediktsson are interred. Þingvellir is a big part of Iceland’s history. v

HÚSAVÍK 2O16 BOOK NOW !

“Amazing experience with friendly and professional staff” “Nice and educational tour”

CHING T A W H A LE W W H ALES

FFINS U P &

tEL: +354 464 3 999 - email: info @ salkawhalewatching.is Issue four 81

A WOW STOPOVER

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24 hours in Reykjavik When traveling by WOW air between North America and continental Europe, a WOW Stopover is the ultimate once in a lifetime opportunity (ok a bit of exaggeration here) to make a swift stopover in one of the most picturesque and quirky places on earth—Reykjavik. It would be senseless to do anything else, right? Text and photos by Donna Tzaneva

Under normal circumstances, 24 hours in any other European city would be considered madness, however, Reykjavik’s compact yet diverse layout allows you to explore its essential attractions effortlessly in that time frame, while still giving you an hour or so to regain your bearings. SMALL CITY, BIG HEART From signature haute-cuisine meals and romantic oceanfront walking paths to eccentric bars and diverse music scenes, Reykjavik has it all. What makes Reykjavik the world’s best stopover city, weekend getaway or holiday destination is a combination of its ease of access, miniature size yet vast assortment of activities. No need to drive and forget having to wait in long queues to get from A to B, everything is pretty much on your doorstep. This small city encompasses the best of the best with a warm and cozy atmosphere, where everyone can find their cup of tea, so to speak.

TIME WELL SPENT In all fairness, spending a day in this incredible city doesn’t do it justice. However, it is completely enough to grasp its vibe, see its major sites, feel its atmosphere and take in its whole being, that is if you know where to go:

The water in the Blue Lagoon is between 37-39 degrees all year round.

9 AM – THE BLUE LAGOON The Blue Lagoon is an ideal stop where you can maximize on time and convenience while indulging in a full-blown Icelandic, geothermal spa experience. Its location allows you to access it easily on the way to or from the airport. The water in the Blue Lagoon is between 37-39 degrees all year round. Therefore, it is a must-visit in any season. Pair it up with a glass of bubbly and you’ll get the perfect romantic champagne breakfast.

street-art murals and smaller, intimate art galleries, Laugavegur encapsulates the Icelandic spirit: calm, quirky, artsy and simply spectacular; you can find anything and everything here. Take a stroll and admire Reykjavik’s beautiful picturesque downtown, do some Nordic shopping and have a beer (or two).

2 PM – LAUGAVEGUR Laugavegur is the street where it all happens. From trendy cafes, unique shops and cozy bars to world-class

All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890 SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL:

• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is Issue four 83

3 PM – HALLGRIMSKIRKJA CHURCH One of Reykjavik’s main tourist landmarks can be found only a couple of minutes from Laugavegur. Designed by Gudjon Samuelsson and inspired by the country’s lava rock formations, Hallgrimskirkja stands tall watching over Reykjavik’s downtown district. A statue of the Icelandic explorer Leif Eriksson can also be found directly in front of the church’s main entrance. What enhances this church as a favorite tourist and local attraction, is the breathtaking view overlooking Reykjavik that can be seen from the church’s steeple—accessible for a small fee. 4 PM – MUSEUM TIME If you’d prefer a quieter slow-paced stressfree experience, why not go to some of Reykjavik’s many museums. Depending on your interest, you may pop-in to a pop-up photo exhibition down one of Laugavegur’s side streets, visit the Viking display or drop by the National Museum. 6 PM – HARPA AND THE OLD HARBOR It’s very hard to miss this building, especially since it’s one of the largest ones in downtown Reykjavik. Harpa is

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Harpa is Reykjavik’s main concert and conference hall and it’s not hard to see why its unique architectural design attracts interest from around the globe.

Reykjavik’s main concert and conference hall and it’s not hard to see why its unique architectural design attracts interest from around the globe. Whether you want to catch a play or simply immerse yourself in its peacefulness, Harpa is a place not to be missed. Not to mention the incredible views you can witness when the sun is reflected in its exterior mirror design. From Harpa, you can walk along the old harbor where the royal navy and other boats are docked.

7 PM – BAEJARINS BEZTU AKA REYKJAVIK’S NO. 1 HOT DOG STAND Let us present to you the WORLD’S BEST HOT DOG STAND (according to popular opinion). Whether it is 2 am or 2 pm, this is the only place in Iceland where you can expect to be queuing for a little more than 5 minutes. 9 PM – PERLAN, THE PEARL If you have a couple of hours to spare and to end your Icelandic mini-getaway on a good note, we recommend visiting The Pearl. Apart from its fine dining restaurant and intergalactic appearance, the Pearl has an outstanding viewing platform compassing a 360-degree view of the city of Reykjavik. Best, of course is to pair it up with a cocktail or two in a romantic scene of a setting sun. v

Don’t forget to make a WOW Stopover when you book flights between North America and Europe. It’s like getting two vacations for the price of one.

Catch the bus to Reykjavík

from Keflavík International Airport Travel in Iceland the smart way Find your routes, plan your journey, locate the nearest bus stop and track your bus on a real-time map with the straeto-app.

Route 55 FLE–RVIK

REYKJANESBÆR 413

FLE 413

REYKJAVÍK 10

VOGAAFLEGGJARI 412

Get tickets at the 10-11 shop when you arrive, opposite where you exit customs. The bus stop is close to arrivals and is well marked. Tickets are also available on the bus. Issue four 85

bus.is

STAY OVER

ALL ABOUT THE BASE The recently opened Base HotelHostel at Ásbrú is a budget accommodation conveniently located near Keflavik Airport on the Reykjanes Peninsula.

Base HotelHostel is at a former NATO base used by the US Army until 2006. The hotel is actually located in two buildings where US Army families once resided and it embraces the 55year history of the army’s presence in Iceland in its overall theme, with quirky little touches and photographs. Base HotelHostel is perfect for short stopovers in Iceland and as a base for exploring the Reykjanes Peninsula and Southwest Iceland. The affordable rooms cater to all types of travelers; couples, group of friends and families with children as well as lone wolfs, seekers, trekkers, Pokémon hunters and

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party people—peace lovers and hippies are, of course, welcome too. At Base HotelHostel you’ll find hostelstyle dorm rooms for the extremely cost conscious, suites for the private but thrifty and anything in between for everyone else who just like to stay within their budget but still get a good night’s rest. YOUR BASE IN ICELAND Base HotelHostel seeks to coffer cheap accommodation and giving guests who travel to Iceland the perfect base to explore the Reykjanes Peninsula. The Base HotelHostel is conveniently

located close to Keflavik Airport pro viding ease on your arrival and departure days and saving you precious time during a brief WOW Stopover. The Reykjanes Peninsula is a geo 0logically young area displaying Iceland’s magnificent nature. From the Northern Lights to helicopter flights— whale watching to geothermal springs, the Reykjanes Peninsula’s got it all. v

Get comfortable and check out www.basehotel.is for more information and booking.

DID YOU KNOW THAT IN ICELAND... you donÂ´t have to buy bottled water, but a bottle of wine is a lot cheaper at Duty Free Iceland www.dutyfree.is

Issue four 87

THE VATNAJÖKULL REGION

THE LAND OF ICE AND FIRE In the Vatnajokull Region, you’ll find the real reason why Iceland is called Iceland. The area is dominated by Vatnajokull Glacier, the world’s largest glacier outside the Arctic region. There you’ll also find some of Iceland’s most popular tour ist attractions such as the spectacular Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon, Skaftafell, the jewel of Vatnajokull National Park and Hvannadalshnukur, the highest peak in Iceland and a popular hike.

The annual fireworks show at Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon in the Vatnajokull Region on the 13th of August is an event you don’t want to miss. Illu minated icebergs bathed in color from the magnificent fireworks in nature’s most spectacular surroundings create an extraordinary experience for spectators. The Vatnajokull Region is full of con trasts, with its black beaches, white glaciers, red volcanoes, green birch forest and blue Atlantic Ocean. Grande ur, serenity and the forces of nature combine to make a visit to the Vatna jokull Region a never-to-be-forgotten experience. Wildlife is rich in the region of Vatna jokull with thousands of migrating birds such as puffins and Arctic tern passing through, especially in spring and summer. Herds of reindeer are also a common sight and if you’re lucky, you’ll spot a seal playing among the icebergs at Jokulsarlon or an Arctic fox running through the land. You will also

Wildlife is rich in the region of Vatnajokull with thousands of migrating birds such as puffins and Arctic tern passing through, especially in spring and summer.

For more information go to www.visitvatnajokull.is

find dozens of companies that offer all sorts of activities year round, diverse accommodation and great restaurants with local food. ADVENTURES “OFF THE BEATEN TRACK” The Vatnajokull Region is in Southeast Iceland and includes over 200 km of the Ring Road from Lómagnúpur in the west to Hvalnes in the east. It covers the accessible southern side of Vatnajokull National Park that photo enthusiasts find particularly delightful displaying countless magnificent views of the glaciers and mountains in the 24-hour daylight of the summertime. Whether kayaking on Heinaberg Glacial Lagoon in Vatnajokull National Park, exploring the Lónsöræfi wilderness, one of the area’s many hidden jewels, or traversing the deep, rugged canyons, green valleys and colorful mountains of the easternmost parts of the region, you will be sure to have a great experience

in one of Iceland’s most extensive protected areas. THE TOWN OF HÖFN The only town in the area, Höfn is a lively fishing town with a population of 1,800. Höfn also has the distinction of being recognized as Iceland’s lobster capital with its complement of lovely restaurants offering this precious product along with various other local specialties year-round. Höfn is also a great base for exploring the magnificent Vatnajokull National Park. For informa tion about the area be sure to drop by the park’s visitor center in Gamlabúð, a beautiful historical building by the harbor. ACTIVITY, ACCOMMODATIONS AND RESTAURANTS Much of the activity in the region of Vatnajokull revolves around the glacier and the nature around it. You can choose between glacier walks and ice climbing, a thrilling snowmobile ride on Vatnajokull or a comfortable tour of this mighty glacier in a super jeep. Other options are ATV tours, geothermal baths at Hoffell, reindeer excursions, a visit to the Thorbergssetur Cultural Museum, a local mineral stone exhibit, the local handicraft store, the petting zoo at Holmur and much more. In the variety of accommodations, you’ll be sure to find a warm welcome by knowledgeable hosts. There are several restaurants are in the area usually offering dishes made with local ingredients. Be sure to ask for the local beer Vatnajökull, brewed from icebergs floating in Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon and the locally sourced Arctic thyme. ACCESSIBLE YEAR ROUND The Vatnajokull Region is well accessible all year due to good weather conditions and frequent transportation. Eagle Air has a daily flight from Reykjavík to Höfn Airport during the summertime and five days a week during other seasons. Buses (Strætó) between Reykjavík and Höfn are scheduled daily throughout the year. There are also three car rental com panies in Höfn. v

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Issue four 89

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom

This Space For Official Use Only

U.S. Cu

Customs Declaration

FORM APPROVED OMB NO.1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110, 148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

What is this and why do I need to fill this out? Before you arrive in the U.S., you will need to fill out the US Customs Declaration Form. If you‘re traveling with your family only the head of the family needs to fill out the form. When you arrive on US soil you will hand this form to the U.S. Customs agent. If you’re traveling with fruits we recommend disposing of them before or during your flight to the U.S. but what happens if you answer yes to any of the questions? It’s not as terrible as you might think and being truthful will save you a lot of trouble and a fine of up to $300. See page 90 for more information on answering YES.

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required). The term "family" is defined as "members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption." 1 Family Name First (Given) 2 Birth date

MAGNUSSON HAKON Month 0 2

VALUR Year 8 0 2

Middle Day

1 7

3 Number of Family members traveling with you 4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination)

BOSTON HARBOR HOTEL 70 ROWES WHARF (c) State MA BOSTON Passport issued by (country) ICELAND Passport number A0182382 Country of Residence ICELAND FRANCE ~ SPAIN Countries visited on this (b) City

5 6 7 8

trip prior to U.S. arrival

9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name

Français Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Qu’est-ce que c’est et pourquoi dois-je en remplir un ? FR: Avant votre arrivée aux États-Unis, vous devrez remplir le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine. Si vous voyagez avec votre famille, seul le chef de famille doit le remplir. Lorsque vous arrivez sur le sol américain, vous donnez ce formulaire aux autorités douanières américaines. Si vous voyagez avec des fruits, nous vous recommandons de les jeter avant ou pendant votre vol vers les États-Unis mais que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « oui » à l’une de ces questions ? Ce n’est pas aussi terrible que ça en a l’air et dire la vérité vous évitera pas mal d’ennuis et une amende pouvant aller jusqu’à 300 $. Consultez la page 90 pour obtenir plus d’informations si vous répondez « OUI ».

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WW-125

10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

Pour remplir ce formulaire, utilisez uniquement des majuscules. Si vous faites une erreur, notre personnel vous donnera un nouveau formulaire. Chaque voyageur entrant ou chef de famille entrant doit fournir les informations suivantes (UNE SEULE déclaration par famille) 1. Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom.

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects:

Yes

(b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products:

Yes

(d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture:

Yes

12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock: Yes

x x x x x

Yes

(such as touching or handling) 13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent: (see definition of monetary instruments on reverse) 14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise:

(a) Adresse Aux États-Unis (Destination ou nom de l‘hôtel) (b) Ville (c) Etat

5. Lieu de délivrace du passeport (nom du pays) 6. Numéro de passeport 7. Pays de résidence

The tra the amo States of both) Custom Moneta bearer bonds. instrum file the carrying instrum prosecu YOU H MADE A

Descrip

(List may

(articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders,

2. Date de naissance Jour/Mois/Année. 3. Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous.

Yes

11 I am (We are) bringing

U.S. Cu United officers persona examin dignified Repres are ava Importa U.S. Re are Visitors rem Declare do Duty— en the of ab Agricul ag Fr bir de Cu W su Contro genera

or goods that are not considered personal effects)

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else but not items mailed to $ the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is: VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is:

0 0

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare. I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

Hákon Valur Magnússon

Signature

01/26/2016

Date (month/day/year)

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

PAPERW sponsor informati number this app commen Border P Washing

8. Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l‘arrivée aux aux Etats-Unis 9. Ligne aérienne / numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau 10. Vous vouages our raison d‘affaires: OUI/NON 11. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de (a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes: OUI/NON (b) viandes, animoux, produits provenant d‘animaux ou d‘animoux sauvages: OUI/NON (c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots: OUI/NON (d) terre. J‘ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis: OUI/NON 12. J‘ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail: OUI/NON 13. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d‘espèces ou d‘instruments monétaires d‘une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d‘instruments monétaire au verso) á plus de 10 000$ US: OUI/NON 14. Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstration ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels): OUI/NON 15. Résidents - la valeur totale des biens, y compris la marchandise commerciale, que j’ai/nous avons achetés ou acquis à l’étranger (y compris les cadeaux pour une autre personne, mais pas les articles envoyés aux États-Unis) et que je/ nous rapportons aux États-Unis est de : montant en USD Visiteurs - La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis, y compris la marchandise commerciale est de : USD Signez sur la ligne pour déclarer que votre déclaration est véridique.

Deutsch Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Was ist das und warum muss ich dieses Formular ausfüllen? GER: Vor der Ankunft in den USA müssen Sie das Formular der US-Zollerklärung ausfüllen. Wenn Sie mit Ihrer Familie unterwegs sind, braucht nur das Familienoberhaupt dieses Formular ausfüllen. Wenn Sie US-Boden betreten, übergeben Sie dieses Formular dem US-Zoll. Wenn Sie auf Ihrer Reise Obst mit sich führen, empfehlen wir Ihnen, dies vor oder während dem Flug in die USA zu entsorgen. Aber was geschieht, wenn Sie eine dieser Fragen mit Ja beantworten? Das ist nicht so schrecklich, wie Sie vielleicht denken, und Ehrlichkeit spart Ihnen eine Menge Ärger und eine mögliche Geldstrafe von bis zu 300$. Siehe Seite 90 für weitere Informationen zur Antwort JA.

Bitte verwenden Sie beim Ausfüllen dieses Formulars nur Großbuchstaben. Falls Sie einen Fehler machen wird Ihnen unsere Crew ein neues Formular geben. Jeder ankommende Reisende bzw. jedes verantwortliche Familienmitglied muss die folgenden Angaben machen (es ist pro Familie nur EINE schriftliche Erklärung erforderlich) 1. Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname 2. Geburtsdatum / Tag/Monat/Jahr 3. Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder 4.

(a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels/Reiseziel) (b) Stadt (c) Staat

11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten: JA/NEIN (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte: JA/NEIN (c) Krakheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken: JA/NEIN (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/einer Ranch/Weide: JA/NEIN 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit): JA/NEIN 13. Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit (Siehe die Definition von Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN 14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN 15. US-Bürger - der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschließlich Handelswaren die ich/wir erworben habe(n) oder im Ausland erworben habe(n) (einschließlich Geschenke für andere, nicht aber Sendungen in die USA) und in die USA einführe(n) lautet: Betrag in US-$ Besucher - der Gesamtwert aller Artikel einschließlich Handelswaren, die in den USA verbleiben ist: $ Auf der Linie unterschreiben, um zu erklären, dass Sie eine wahrheitsgemäße Erklärung abgeben.

5. Pass ausgestellt von (Land) 6. Passnummer 7. Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land) 8. Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA 9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes 10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich: JA/NEIN Issue four 91

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom

What happens if you say “YES”? Sometimes we just want to avoid trouble and think that saying NO to everything will make things easier. That’s not the case and in fact, it can even cause more problems, delays and even fines. Be truthful on your Customs Declaration form and all will be good. Worst case scenario they’ll confiscate your banana but we promise you can buy a new one once you’re out of the airport. Yes to 11 (a), (b) or (c) Your customs officer will refer you to an agricultural specialist who will ask you additional questions and might ask to inspect your food items. In many cases, you’ll be allowed to take your food with you. This often depends on where you got the food and how it’s been processed. Fruits, vegetables and raw meats are usually confiscated. You can research ahead of time at canibringit.com which is a U.S. Government run site. Yes to 11 (d) and/or no. 12: An agricultural specialist will ask to inspect the soil or clothes, shoes or luggage that has been in contact with livestock or farm soil to determine if they contain any dangerous organisms. If they find potentially dangerous substances they will disinfect your items before allowing you to bring them in. For bringing soil into the US, you need a permit. Yes to no. 13 or 14: If you are carrying currency worth over $10,000 you will simply be given a special form to fill out for the Treasury Department. For items intended for sale, you should have already filed a “formal entry” before embarking on your journey. You could do so “on the spot” but these matters are subject to many rules and regulations and can be complicated.

Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « OUI » ? Certaines personnes semblent penser que répondre « non » à toutes les réponses leur évitera des ennuis. Ce n’est pas le cas et en fait, cela peut même vous causer plus de problèmes, des retards et des amendes. Dites la vérité sur votre formulaire de déclaration en douane et tout ira bien. Dans le pire des cas, ils confisqueront votre banane mais promis, vous pourrez en acheter une nouvelle à votre arrivée à l’aéroport. Oui aux questions 11 (a), (b) ou (c) Votre agent douanier vous dirigera vers un spécialiste agricole qui vous posera des questions supplémentaires et qui pourra inspecter vos fruits. Dans de nombreux cas, vous sera autorisé à garder votre nourriture. Cela dépend souvent de la provenance la nourriture et de la façon dont elle a été transformée. Les fruits, les légumes et la viande crue sont généralement confisqués. Vous pouvez faire

WOW Power to the people

des recherches avant de partir sur le site canibright. com qui est un site du gouvernement américain. Oui aux questions 11 (d) et/ou 12 : Un spécialiste agricole inspectera la terre ou les vêtements, les chaussures ou les bagages qui ont été en contact avec du bétail ou le sol d’une ferme pour déterminer la présence d’organismes dangereux. S’il trouve des substances potentiellement dangereuses, il désinfectera vos objets avant de vous laisser les garder. Pour importer de la terre aux États-Unis, il vous faut un permis. Oui aux questions 13 ou 14 : Si vous transportez des devises d’une valeur supérieure à 10 000 $, vous devrez simplement remplir un formulaire spécial pour le ministère des finances. Pour les objets destinés à être vendus, vous devriez déjà avoir rempli un « formulaire d’entrée officielle » avant de prendre votre vol. Vous pouvez faire cela sur place mais ce genre de chose est soumis à de nombreuses règles et règlementations et peut être compliqué.

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Was passiert, wenn Sie JA sagen? Einige Leute nehmen an, dass sie keinerlei Ärger bekommen, wenn sie überall NEIN sagen. Das ist nicht so. Tatsächlich kann dies sogar mehr Probleme, Verzögerungen und sogar Geldbußen verursachen. Seien Sie bei Ihrer Zollerklärung ehrlich, und alles wird gut. Im schlimmsten Fall konfisziert man Ihre Banane, aber wir versprechen Ihnen, dass Sie sich eine neue kaufen können, sobald Sie den Flughafen verlassen haben. Ja zu 11 (a), (b) oder (c) Ihr Zollbeamter wird Sie an einen Spezialisten für landwirtschaftliche Produkte weiterverweisen, der Ihnen zusätzliche Fragen stellen wird und evtl. darum bittet, Ihre Lebensmittel inspizieren zu dürfen. In vielen Fällen wird man Ihnen erlauben, Ihr Essen mitzunehmen. Oft hängt es davon ab, wo Sie die Lebensmittel erworben haben und wie sie verarbeitet wurden. Obst, Gemüse und rohes Fleisch werden in der Regel beschlagnahmt. Sie können vor Abflug auf der Website der US-Regierung canibringit.com nachlesen, was erlaubt ist. Ja bei 11 (d) und/oder Nr. 12: Ein Spezialist für landwirtschaftliche Produkte wird Sie darum bitten, die Erde oder die Kleidung, Schuhe oder das Gepäck inspizieren zu dürfen, welche(s) in Kontakt mit Tieren oder landwirtschaftlichem Boden war, um zu bestimmen, ob diese gefährliche Organismen enthalten. Wenn er potenziell gefährliche Stoffe findet, werden Ihre Gegenstände desinfiziert, bevor Sie die Erlaubnis erhalten, diese einzuführen. Für das Einführen von Erde in die USA benötigen Sie eine Genehmigung. Ja bei Nr. 13 oder 14: Wenn Sie Bargeld im Wert von mehr als $10.000 mit sich führen, erhalten Sie einfach ein besonderes Formular, das Sie für das US Finanzministerium ausfüllen müssen. Für Gegenstände, die für den Verkauf vorgesehen sind, sollten Sie bereits vor Ihrer Abreise eine „formelle Einfuhrgenehmigung“ einholen. Sie tun könnten dies auch „vor Ort“ erledigen, aber diese Vorgänge unterliegen vielen Regeln und können sehr kompliziert sein. v

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1.5 hours

A 1.5 hour journey from Stykkishólmur. A historic and beautiful island where time seems to have stood still since the 18th century. Book your journey at saeferdir.is

VESTMANNAEYJAR

30 min.

A 30 min. journey from Landaeyjahöfn. Vestmannaeyjar has a lot to offer; a 18 hole golf course, a beautiful swimming pool, museums as well as a variety of restaurants and hotels. Book your journey at herjolfur.is

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Welcome to New York

One weekend in the Big Apple New York, aka The City That Never Sleeps, is WOW air’s newest destination. If you have just one weekend in the Big Apple, we’ve got you covered. These six ideas are a must on any to-do list. by Krista Connor Photos: iStockphoto.com

EXPLORE A NATIONAL SYMBOL Towering over New York Harbor, the Statue of Liberty is the regal embodi ment of freedom and democracy since the late 19th century and one of the world’s most iconic monuments. This colossal robed woman representing Libertas, a Roman goddess, was a goodwill gift from France and dedicated on October 28, 1886. Approximately 12 million immigrants sailed past the figure on Liberty Island between 1892 and 1954. Now, tourists can take a ferry to the island and visit this historic statue. Reserve tickets to get access to the statue’s crown—yes, you can walk all the way to the top—its pedestal balcony and its museum. Adult tickets range from $18-$21, senior citizens 62+ from $14$17 and children 4-12 from $9-$12, for children aged 0-3 admission is free. DELVE INTO 5000 YEARS’ WORTH OF ART AT THE MET One of the art capitals of the world, New York City boasts fine museums and exhibits, with the 5th Avenue Metro politan Museum of Art, the country’s largest museum and its most diverse. The Met’s permanent collection includes more than 2 million works and exhibits, like the Egyptian Temple of Dendur, the Arms and Armory Hall, and paintings like Vincent van Gogh’s Wheat Field with Cypresses, Emanuel Gottlieb Leutze’s Washington Crossing the Delaware. Claude Monet’s The Water Lily Pond, Antonio Canova’s renowned sculptures, King Henry VIII’s armor, the Astor Chinese Garden Court, and the Medieval Sculp ture Hall representing 5,000 years of art. The Met is surely home to something of interest for visitors of all ages. VISIT TIMES SQUARE AND CATCH A BROADWAY SHOW Love it or hate it, we all know it from the movies—blaring taxi horns, bold billboards and flashing signs, the press of thousands zig-zagging through streets—Times Square! No wonder the hub is often referred to as “the heart of the world,” or at the very least, of the city. The major commercial intersection— which sees about 330,000 people a day, minimum—is also the center of the

WOW Power to the people

At 843 acres, the grassy and wooded Central Park, which faced many declines and renovations since its establishment in 1857, offers countless leisure options.

Broadway Theater District. While some theaters are located off Broadway, Times Square is filled with Broadway productions of all varieties.

GRAB A HOT DOG AND JUMP ON A RIDE AT CONEY ISLAND Nothing quite captures American nostalgia like a visit to Coney Island. The Brooklyn neighborhood, seaside resort and individually-run amusement park rides emanate an old-world carnival feel. The neighborhood was an East Coast go-to until right after World War II, when it fell into neglect, but thankfully in recent years, the area has undergone extensive renovations. This includes a stadium and new amusement park, successfully breathing new life into the neighborhood. While Coney Island’s beach, boardwalk and the New York Aquarium are accessible yearround, rides and attractions are open between spring and fall. Coney Island is allegedly the birthplace of the American hot dog, so don’t leave the neighborhood without first trying a classic crowd-pleaser at the original Nathan’s Hot Dogs at 1310 Surf Ave. Also, fireworks are set off at the beach at 9:30 pm every Friday evening from the last week of June until the first week of September.

GET LOST IN CHINATOWN Located in one of the oldest neighborhoods in Manhattan dating back to the 1800s when Chinese immigrants settled in the area, Chinatown offers a fascinating historical and cultural experience. Practice bargaining with street vendors, stroll down colorful Pell St.—which looks very different today from its former appearance with the brothels, gambling houses, gang hideaways and opium shacks that lined the streets in previous centuries—or take a sightseeing break at Nom Wah Tea Parlor. The bakery and tea shop which opened in 1920 is one of New York’s first dim sum houses and is legendary for its almond cookies and moon cakes.

Photo: Songquan Deng / iStockphoto.com.

Chinatown. Photo: stu99 / iStockphoto.com

KICK BACK IN CENTRAL PARK The upper-Manhattan mainstay is one of the most filmed locations in the world, and it’s no wonder. At 843 acres, the grassy and wooded Central Park, which faced many declines and renovations since its establishment in 1857, offers countless leisure options. Paddle around the park’s lake for $12 an hour and row to the Central Park Boathouse Restaurant to enjoy the lake view. Or visit the Central Park Zoo and its Tisch Children’s Zoo. Strolling through the Conservatory Garden is a favorite pastime of both locals and tourists, with its plethora of flowers, fountains, hedges and walkways. Finally, pack a picnic, grab a book and as evening falls, watch the sunset over the New York City skyline. v

So much to see and do and so little time! Now that WOW air offers cheap flights to New York from Europe you can visit the bustling metropolitan more often. On your way there or back make a WOW Stopover in Iceland and see the land of fire and ice. Take a big bite out of the Big Apple this fall and winter. WOW air will start its service to New York Newark Airport in late November 2016, offering cheap flights every day of the week, all year round.

Issue four 95 Photo: spyarm / iStockphoto.com

California dreaming

A tale of two cities and an amazing road trip Rattled by tremors, colonized by Hollywood greats and home to moneyed hippies, surfers, plastic surgeons and the Silicon Valley, California is the Promised Land of Superlatives, a place where the countryside is unspoiled, wild and vast. by Cindy-Lou Dale Photos: iStockphoto.com

WOW Power to the people

Issue four 97

Photo: Maciej Bledowski / iStockphoto.com

You’d expect that cities dedicated to making money appear to think of little else, and seldom have much energy left for charm. But, on a crisp autumn morning LA’s 1300-square kilometers of shimmering glass and concrete towers, its areas of quiet prosperity and shadowed trophy homes, looks very appealing— especially to its serious beach culture. WHERE TO BEGIN? Each stretch of golden beach attracts a different crowd—Venice Beach (aka Muscle Beach) offers some of the best people-watching in town where, from dawn to dusk, you can gawk at the body builders, or the scantily clad bike riders and rollerbladers. This place is off the wall and unlike anywhere on Earth with jugglers, artists, mimes, tumblers, poets, fire-eaters, potters, singers, magicians and the ever-present music. Then there’re the stalls selling anything and everything: tattoo parlors, T shirt vendors, tarot card readers… you can even find sunglasses for dogs—all this to the background of sand, surf and brightly painted buildings. It’s funky, raw, in your face and thoroughly exciting. The question in Los Angeles is never what to do, but where to begin. It’s one of those exhilarating cities where anything seems possible. And it’s everything you’ve seen in the movies, the mansions of Malibu, Rodeo Drive where the rich and famous do their shopping, Sunset Strip with its string of famous comedy clubs and Santa Monica’s colorful nightlife. ROADTRIP! One of the great attractions of California is its inexpressibly gorgeous Pacific coast

WOW Power to the people

line, Highway One, a thin ribbon of road that stretches between Los Angeles and San Francisco, skirting central California’s glorious wind-swept, sea-sculpted coast, which hugs the hem of the Ventana Mountains. The twisting two-lane highway, flanked by dense pine forests on its inland side, is deemed one of the most scenic drives in the world. With views of rugged canyons and steep sea cliffs, purple manganese and granite shorelines continually being pawed at by the ocean, windswept cypress trees and majestic redwood forests, the tendency is to do nothing but sit back, relax and breathe in the spicy scents of wild sage and eucalyptus. Driving between Los Angeles and San Francisco is a 450-mile/8-hour non-stop journey. But Highway One is not for those wishing to make excellent time navigating around treacherous turns and across soaring arch-span bridges. Add another day to your itinerary to take it all in. For the cliff edge thrill, you may want to start your journey in San Francisco, heading to Los Angeles. Also, fill up your tank whenever you can as there are few fuel stops along this stretch. And for a really cool ride, rent a convertible. THE SIGHTS OF SAN FRANCISCO The beat of the 50s, peace and love in the 60s, gay rights in the 70s, the gastronomic revolution of the 80s, the technological boom of the 90s and now San Francisco is still home to cyber giants and the forerunner of the sustainable food advancement. San Francisco, aka The City, prides itself on being quirky and offbeat. Its distinctive neighborhoods reflect this in their charact

Driving between Los Angeles and San Francisco is a 450-mile/8-hour non-stop journey. But Highway One is not for those wishing to make excellent time navigating around treacherous turns and across soaring arch-span bridges.

er and unique attractions. Here the pulse of San Francisco is most audible; from Chinatown’s Grant Street, where sidewalk tables overflow with kitsch and peculiar gifts, to North Beach’s mind-altering espresso and beret art community, where bookstores and sidewalk cafés define the district, the Bay area embodies a balance between soaring ambition and pleasant ease. Hop onto a trolley car or take a cablecar ride across the Golden Gate Bridge to Fisherman’s Wharf where a 15-minute ferry ride will take you a mile off shore to

Photo: kristaabel / iStockphoto.com

The infamous Alcatraz. Photo: Melhem Gharazeddine / iStockphoto.com

Los Angeles, Hollywood Boulevard. Photo: Sean Pavone / iStockphoto.com

ICELANDIC GOURMET MENU The scenic Bixby bridge by Big Sur. Photo: LUNAMARIA / iStockphoto.com.

Freshly caught seafood and free range lamb – with a modern twist

San Francisco city view. Photo: encrier / iStockphoto.co

Alcatraz, one of the world’s most legendary prisons, having housed some of the 20th century’s most hardened criminals. A prison tour is available via an audio-guide, speaking of the notorious prisoners, their guards, the attempted escapes and the day-to-day life of the prisoners. It gives visitors an idea of the cold, solitary existence on “The Rock.” There is something chilling about Alcatraz; perhaps this colossal monument to brutality, hardship and suffering will have you reflect on the depths people have plummeted in our so-called civilization. IF YOU’RE GOING It is a common tourist faux pas to think June, July and August are going to be warm in San Francisco. Although the city really does come alive with summertime festivities, the summer is usually the season of fog and unexpected chills with tourists shivering in shorts and T-shirts. The autumn offers warm temperatures and fewer crowds and so does the spring, although you can expect a cooler breeze. During the winter, bargain hunters are drawn to the city as hotel rates drop considerably. After seeing the sights of San Francisco, head for Napa Valley, one of the world’s great wine-growing regions. You won’t regret it. In the colorful mosaic of the Golden State, with its prominent cities and quaint seaside towns, things have always been done differently. Here you can be whatever you want, whenever you choose. v

DINNER

6 COURSE MENU STARTS WITH A “REFRESHING“ SHOT OF THE NATIONAL SNAPS BRENNIVÍN FOLLOWED BY A BITE-SIZED TASTE OF PUFFIN ICELANDIC OCEAN PERCH Slow cooked ocean perch, beetroot purée, spicy butter, serrano ham, beetroot ICELANDIC MINKE WHALE Shallot vinaigrette, crispy Jerusalem artichokes ICELANDIC SEA TROUT Yuzu mayo, truffle mayo, crispy quinoa, apple ICELANDIC PLAICE Samphire, green asparagus, blood orange, lime beurre blanc RACK OF FREE RANGE ICELANDIC LAMB Slow cooked lamb fillet, leeks, pickled onions, smoked celeriac purée, baked carrots, spinach and dill cream Dessert by pastry chef Axel Þ.

Road trips are all the rage. WOW air now offers cheap flights to California from Europe via Iceland. Fly to Los Angeles or San Francisco with WOW air and on the way, you can have a WOW Stopover in Iceland for a little northern road trip. WOW air offers up to five flights a week from almost all WOW destinations in Europe to California all year round. Find available connections to California at wowair.com.

SKYR FANTASIA Skyr fromage, Skyr mousse, strawberry & lime gel, lime sponge cake APOTEK KITCHEN+BAR

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Issue four 99

Montreal Museums Pass

M is for Montréal Montréal is definitely an “M” city, as in Many Marvelous Museums, from architecture to insects, and science to arts and crafts. The Montréal Museums Society (http://museesmontreal.org/en) has developed the Museum Pass to help you visit their members at your own pace AND receive benefits. by Judy Colbert Photos: Montreal Museum Society, Wikimedia and iStockphoto.com

The Montréal Museums Society offers three packages, each of which allows you to visit any of the 41 attractions without an additional fee (except for the IMAX presentations at the Montréal Science Centre). And buying any pass, saves you a lot of money. YOU SHALL PASS! Once you decide which package you want, it’s time to decide which of the city’s extraordinary museums and centers you want to visit in this thriving museum city. Selection can be made by interest, geography, popularity or there’s always the option of visiting the most expensive ones, so you get more bang for your buck. Lesley Peterson, a Toronto art and travel writer at www.CultureTripper. com, highly recommends the Fashion Museum, or Musee de la Mode because “Style and fashion are such a big part of life in Montréal.” She recalls “strolling old Montréal at night on my last visit, and a line of limos pulled up in front of the historic Bonsecours Market (home of the MCTQ) with its illuminated façade; a stream of long-legged models were clambering out for a Fashion Week event. For me, that was the quin tessential scene in this trendy city.” Now, says Peterson, with the election of Justin Trudeau as the Prime Minister, and his wife Sophie, fashion awareness has risen to an even higher level.

those who fancy science, the Montréal Science Center lets you explore the human body (you have as much hair as a chimp), 26 science stations (geared for visitors six and up), a special area for children under seven, and a cargo exhibit that describes how freight is transported through a large port like Montréal. A final permanent exhibit explores the “Windmills of Imaginations” with the world’s first electricity-to-water transformer and the world’s first water-to-wind transformer.

At the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts, you can see an encyclopedic collection of fine and decorative arts from antiquity to today.

PASS PACKAGES The first package is C$75 and allows one free visit per museum during any three days within three weeks of your first visit (which is good for six months from the date of purchase). If your visit is just a few days long, the C$80 package includes one free visit per museum during three consecutive days and within six months of the purchase. You also receive free public transportation on the bus, subway and airport shuttle (good for returning to the airport). A three-day transportation pass from the Société de transport de Montréal (STM) usually costs C$18. For long-term or frequent visits, the third option, the Prestige pass, at C$225, allows two admissions per person or one admission for two people for each member museum. It’s good for one year from your first visit or from the 30th day after you buy it. Examples of some regular admission prices are the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts, $20; Montréal Science Centre, $15; Montréal Biodome, $19.25;

Montral Museum of Fine Arts

Jeangagnon / Wikimedia

ART, HISTORY AND SCIENCE History lovers will be taken aback at the McCord Museum that displays a collection started by David Ross McCord. It shows the history and culture of Canada and offers a variety of fascinating films and lectures explaining the exhibits and the past. Meanwhile, at the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts, you can see an encyclopedic collection of fine and decorative arts from antiquity to today. Its paintings, sculptures, graphics arts, photographs, and decorative art objects are housed in four pavilions. The Claire and Marc Bourgie Pavilion (covering the art of Quebec and Canada) have a concert hall with an impressive collection of Tiffany stained-glass windows. For Photo: Hdecumont / iStockphoto.com

100

WOW Power to the people

and the Insectarium and Botanical Garden, $19.25. Among the benefits of any pass is a ten percent discount at many gift shops (some may require a minimum purchase), and a twenty-five percent discount on walking tours of Old Montréal East & West by Guidatour. The first two passes (with or without transportation) can be purchased online ahead of time and it can be mailed to you at your home (for an extra fee which is almost paid for by using it for transportation from the airport to the city), or delivered to your hotel for your arrival. You can also pick it up at the Montréal Museums Society office or from a dozen of the member museums. The Prestige card is sold only by the Montréal Museums Society, online or on site (VISA or cash only). The Society office is open weekdays only. Note that many attractions are closed on Monday. v

Photo: jdb30 / iStockphoto.com

Don’t let Montréal pass you by. Hop on one of WOW air’s cheap flights to Montréal and explore this great city. Add even more WOW to your trip! On your way to or from Canada, you can have a WOW Stopover in Iceland. WOW air now offers up to five flights a week from Europe to Montréal, Canada all year round. Find available connections to Montréal or Toronto from almost all WOW destinations in Europe at wowair.com.

taste the best of iceland... ... in one amazing meal icelandic gourmet feast Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic spirit Brennívín Followed by seven delicious tapas

late night dining Our kitchen is open until 23:30 on weekdays and 01:00 on weekends

Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa Lobster tails baked in garlic Pan-fried line caught blue ling with lobster-sauce Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina Minke Whale with cranberry & malt-sauce White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion fruit coulis

7.990 kr.

RESTAURANT- BAR Vesturgötu 3B | 101 Reykjavík | Tel. 551 2344 | www.tapas.is Issue four 101

London Markets

Seven days of shopping One of the most enjoyable ways of immersing yourself in the energy and eccentricity of London is to visit a local market. From Brixton to Brick Lane, wherever you are in the capital, you are not far from a marketplace where you can pick up anything from retro fashion to tasty food or just simply take in the atmosphere. The capital has a plethora of charismatic, eclectic markets to suit every taste, every day. by Christopher Kanal

MONDAY BRIXTON VILLAGE MARKET, BRIXTON Famous for decades for its AfricanCaribbean snack stalls, Brixton Village Market today has become London’s foodie heart with cuisine from all over the world. Set under a Victorian covered market arcade, the market brims with character and the aroma of delicious dishes. The tastiest places to eat include Brixton stalwart Honest Burgers and Franco Manca, serving varied Neapolitan pizzas, generously topped. If you are in the mood for authentic Beijing street food, the dumplings and spicy noodle soups at Mama Lan will not disappoint. While rejuvenation has brought noticeable hipster homogeneity, Brixton’s community character remains. There are shops galore that sell fresh vegetables to charcuterie, exotically colored fish, cheese and even Chinese medicine. For cocktails and Indian-style tapas, try Kricket, located in the converted shipping containers that is Pop Brixton.

TUESDAY ALFIE’S ANTIQUE MARKET, MARYLEBONE For forty years, Alfie’s has been an emporium to mooch around for kooky curiosities. This art deco trove is home to 70-odd specialist dealers spread over five floors. Alfie’s has attracted both serious collectors and novices alike to its wide selection of antiques from retro and vintage clothing to collectibles ranging from jewelry to posters and all manner of Victorian paraphernalia. On the top third you’ll find the Roof Top Kitchen, a contemporary café serving tasty and very reasonably priced dishes as well as afternoon tea. The large sunny terrace has spectacular views over London’s rooftops and chimney pots.

weekend visitors and persistent attempts to gentrify it, Camden Market takes no prisoners. A sprawling collection of markets adrift around the Regent’s Canal, Camden Market offers a genuine taste of North London street culture. Some stalls might still boast tie-dye T-shirts, goth jewelry and dubiously sourced incense that will bring a nostalgic tear or two to some people’s eyes, but there is something here for everyone. Where Camden Market meets the junction of Buck Street is where you can peruse vintage threads, Levi’s, T-shirts and all manner of accessories. A five-minute walk away is the Stables Market, the place to head for furniture, crafts and homeware. The stalls on Camden Lock sell children’s clothes as well

Underground: Marylebone Hours: Tuesday-Saturday from 10 am-6 pm www.alfiesantiques.com

as snacks. A good place to perch and watch the locals at play is the Hawley Arms (risen from the ashes after the “Great Fire of Camden” in 2008) with its serious selection of local ales. For live music head up Chalk Farm Road past the famous Roundhouse venue, to The Enterprise, a buzzy pub that hosts fresh talent every night of the week.

Underground: Camden Town, Chalk Farm Hours: Daily from 10 am-late www.camdenmarket.com THURSDAY BOROUGH MARKET, LONDON BRIDGE London’s oldest, busiest and still most popular food market dates back to the 13th century. Borough is where to head for specialty gourmet food and ingredients from fresh bread and cakes to rare-breed meats and preserves. It’s crowded and expensive but it’s a hive of activity, particularly on sunny weekends, and a bustling place to pass through if you are walking along the south bank of the river. Very popular hangouts include Monmouth Coffee, Lebanese stall Arabica Bar & Kitchen and London’s best Spanish grocery, Brindisa where you can grab a sumptuous Serrano sandwich and wash it down with a beer from nearby Utobeer, which sells over 700 rare beers and ales from around the world.

WEDNESDAY Underground: Brixton Hours: Daily from 10 am-late www.brixtonmarket.net

CAMDEN MARKET, CAMDEN A London institution that still retains real attitude despite hordes of

At Broadway Market. Photo courtesy of Violet Bakery.

Underground: London Bridge Hours: Thursdays from 11 am-5 pm, Fridays from 12-6 pm, Saturdays from 8 am-5 pm www.boroughmarket.org.uk FRIDAY PORTOBELLO ROAD MARKET, NOTTING HILL Portobello Road Market remains popular with locals and tourists alike. Always busy but quieter on Friday’s and easier to walk around. The big draw will always be the vin tage clothes market held under the Westway flyover where on a good day you can pick up rare boutique threads and designer clothes. Portobello is, in reality, many differ ent markets jostling for space in the area between Notting Hill Gate tube at one end and Ladbroke Grove tube Portobello Road, one of the most popular shopping destinations in London. Photo: iStockphoto / QQ7

Photo: jdb30 / iStockphoto.com

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at the other. You can find antiques and eccentric knick-knacks between Chepstow Villas and Elgin Crescent. Food lovers can graze the food stalls in the middle portion around Elgin Crescent and Talbot Road.

Underground: Ladbroke Grove; Notting Hill Gate Hours: Fridays and Saturdays from 9 am-7 pm www.portobelloroad.co.uk SATURDAY BROADWAY MARKET, HACKNEY A fashionable, fun market on the edge of London Fields that has become a big hit in recent years. You can promenade through the 135 market stalls selling fresh produce, flowers and clothes while chomping on Temple Tofu from Banhmi11 and necking Vietnamese chilled coffee courtesy of Ca Phe Vn. Violet Bakery is very popular for its cupcakes, all made with organic ingredients. Located in a former butcher’s, Climpson & Sons is the place to sit and watch Hackney at play. Many

music shops and pubs line the road. A few meters away in the playground of London Fields Primary School is the weekly Schoolyard Market that has been quietly growing for the past four years. If you’re feeling “peckish,” head to Mr Musubi for flame-grilled, sesame seed-dipped Japanese rice snacks or The Frenchie for its signature duck confit-in-brioche. All kinds of everything at Portobello Road. Photo: iStockphoto / kateafte Borough Market. Photo: John Holdship.

Underground: Bethnal Green Hours: Saturday from 10 am-5 pm www.broadwaymarket.co.uk SUNDAY BRICK LANE MARKET, EAST END Situated on an East London street famous for its curry restaurants, Brick Lane Market comes into its own every Sunday and whatever

the weather, it is always popular, attracting folk from across the city. However, it remains a favorite amongst students and visitors. There has been a market in these parts in various guises since the Restoration in the 17th century. Today the market gravitates around the Old Truman Brewery with its assortment of stalls selling clothing, antiques, and fresh cuisine such as the Rib Man, selling succulent spicy ribs with very hot sauces—you have been warned!

Underground: Liverpool Street Hours: Saturday from 11 am-6 pm, Sunday from 9 am-5 pm www.bricklanemarket.com

You’ll find what you’re looking for in London. WOW air offers cheap flights to London from USA and Canada several times a week, all year ‘round. Don’t forget to book a WOW Stopover in Iceland on your way to or from the UK. You’ll find cheap flights to the UK at wowair.com. Join the WOW air club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox.

THE ICELANDIC

PENIS MUSEUM We

Many young designers set up shop here. There are numerous flea markets worth checking out in the surrounding streets such as Sunday UpMarket and the Vintage Market.

Dicks!

The Icelandic Phallological Museum is one of the most informative, humorous, and unusual museums in the world. The world famous “Penis museum” in Reykjavik is the only museum in the world to contain a collection of phallic specimens belonging to all the various types of mammal found in a single country. The founder, Sigurður Hjartarson started the collection 40 years ago and made it first accessible to the public in 1997 with the opening of the museum. The Icelandic Phallological Museum contains a collection of more than 220 penises and penile parts belonging to all the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland. There is also a foreign section that holds more than forty examples and a folklore section that has some twenty pieces on display. All in all, more than 380 biological examples. In addition to the biological section of the museum, visitors can view a collection of about 350 artistic oddments and practical utensils related to the museum’s chosen theme. The museum is in a 250 square meter location on the upper part of Reykjavik’s main shopping street, Laugavegur, only a 10 minutes walk from the city’s centre. There is a souvenir corner with a small exclusive selection of things related to the museum’s theme.

Seeing is believing! No pornography or offensive material in the museum.

Issue four 103 Laugavegur 116 • 105 Reykjavík • Tel.: (+354) 561-6663 (+354) 690 3774• phallus@phallus.is • www.phallus.is Opening hours: Summer: Daily from10 am - 6 pm • Winter: Daily from 11 am -6 pm • Next to Hlemmur bus station

Slow travel through Bath

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A royal getaway The historical and gorgeous city of Bath is just a short train ride from Bristol where WOW air flies several times a week. It is a popular desti nation among Brits and even though many claim to have seen the city, very few have experienced it. Photos: Courtesy of The Royal Crescent and from iStockphoto.com

Popular for day trips that include many other destinations, buses full of travelers stop outside the Royal Crescent giving passengers a short peak at the magnificent building before moving on to Stonehenge or back home to London. This is “fast food tourism” which really doesn’t do justice to this great city. We recommend “slow travel” when in Bath. In fact, stay for a whole day and the night too. You won’t regret it. This UNESCO World Heritage site is probably the most laid-back and easygoing city in the world and you will leave relaxed and invigorated.

Georgians have all benefitted from and enjoyed Baths health-giving and relaxing natural, thermal waters. The Romans built a temple there around 50 AD, after which a town grew up on the site, known as Aquae Sulis, The Waters of Sul. Here the Romans also built their Roman Baths which still stand today and are a popular stop for travelers. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Bath was taken over by the Saxons and later became an important wool trading town. In the Late 17th century it was a quiet market town which largely depended on its springs.

ROMANTIC FOR THE ROMANS No one knows exactly when the healthgiving qualities of Bath’s springs were first noticed. It is legend that Prince Bladud, father of Shakespeare’s King Lear, was cured of Leprosy by bathing there in 863 AD, but it’s a fact that Celts, Romans, Saxons, Normans and

HIGH SOCIETY ENTERS In the 18th century, during the Georgian era, Bath became all the rage and grew considerably. This happened mainly due to the efforts of one Richard ‘Beau’ Nash, the town’s master of ceremonies who made it into a popular spa town among the

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Issue four 105

The Royal Crescent. Photo: SAKhan Photography / iStockphoto.com

well-to-do in England. During this time, many fine buildings were erected there where members of the elite gathered. In the summer, the town was full of rich visitors. They bathed in the healing waters, played cards, went to balls and horse races and, of course, took leisurely walks around town. With the popularity, Bath developed into an elegant town with Georgian buildings such as the Circus, The Royal Crescent and the Royal Mineral Hospital, that blended harmoniously with the Roman baths. THE ROYAL CRESCENT The Circus, a circle of 33 houses divided into three sections drawing inspiration from the Colosseum and the Royal Crescent, was built under the direction of father and son, John Wood the elder and John Wood the younger, between 1767-1774, and is among the greatest examples of Georgian architecture in the world. The Royal Crescent is Bath’s most famous building to date and as previ ously stated a favorite stop for buses on day-trips. In the spirit of “slow travel” we recommend a walk instead. It is surely the best way to explore Bath. Go to No. 1 Royal Crescent, the first house to be built on the crescent and experience the Royal Crescent life in its original style. Now a museum, the house illustrates how wealthy property owners of the 18th century might have furnished such a wonderful home. Inside, you’ll meet friendly and

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Bath developed into an elegant town with Georgian buildings such as the Circus, The Royal Crescent and the Royal Mineral Hospital, that blended harmoniously with the Roman baths.

knowledgeable guides in each room who reveal all sorts of secrets about the house and its former residents. STAY THE NIGHT All this luxury is hard to leave behind but don’t worry; you can stay. At No. 16 Royal Crescent, you’ll find the beautiful Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa where you can spend the night in one of their gorgeous rooms with a view over the hills surrounding Bath. It is an experience we recommend at least once in a lifetime. The Royal Crescent Hotel welcomes residents and non-residents alike

so if your budget doesn’t allow for a stay at the five-star establishment, make sure you opt for an afternoon tea in the garden, a relaxing trip to their award-winning spa, a glass of wine with friends or full-blown dinner at The Dower House, the hotel’s award-winning restaurant. Everyone deserves a day of luxury, and besides, what better way to fully enjoy the famous Royal Crescent? THE FAIREST OF THEM ALL Most of Bath’s buildings are made from the local, golden-colored Bath Stone, giving the city a very light look. This is probably one of the cleanest and most visually pleasing cities in the world, which enhances its therapeutic reputation. Spend a few days in Bath; try the spas, drink the water and actually experience the city. You won’t regret it. v

The Circus. Photo: csfotoimages / istockphoto.com

You’ll find cheap flights to South West England at wowair.com. Join the WOW air club at wowair.com/ wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox. Safe, light and luxurious, Bath is the right place for slow travel. WOW air offers cheap flights to Bristol and Bath four times a week, all year round.

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ATV • Caving • Combo tours • Diving • Glacier Hike • Golden Circle • Hiking • Horse Riding • Hot Springs • Ice Caves • Kayaking • Multiday tours Issue four 107 Northern Lights • Rafting • Snorkeling • Snowmobiling • Super Jeeps • Trekking • Volcano Hiking • Whale Watching

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Edinburgh

The eccentric jewel in Scotland’s crown Not only is Edinburgh a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it’s also Scotland’s capital city and home to phenomenal festivals, which have the city buzzing with a sense of excitement all year round. Text and photos by Cindy-Lou Dale

Packed with medieval tenements, narrow streets through the Old Town and a sweeping elegance which swathes the Georgian New Town, there’s no question that Edinburgh deserves its reputation as one of the most stunning and enthralling cities in the world. Sightseeing in Edinburgh is pretty easy. You can experience different centuries of history without even moving! Head to the bottom of the famous Royal Mile where you’ll find the 17th century Palace of Holyroodhouse, the modern parliament building and the prehistoric, extinct volcano famously known as Arthur’s Seat—all proudly standing next to each other. EDINBURGH CASTLE Make this your first port of call. The castle sits at the top of the historic Royal Mile on a volcanic plug and is perhaps the most famous landmark on the Edinburgh skyline. Beat the crowds and get there before opening at 9:30 am. The views over the city are spectacular and there is so much to take in at the castle—the National Museum of War, the National War Monument and the Honors of Scotland, the country’s crown jewels. ROYAL MILE The Royal Mile is the heart of Scotland’s historic capital. It runs through the center of Edinburgh’s Old Town, connecting the magnificent Edinburgh Castle with the splendorous Palace of Holyroodhouse. The Mile is

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overlooked by im pressive, towering tenements, between which cobbled closes and narrow stairways interlock to create a secret underground world. Beneath the City Chambers on the Royal Mile lies Edinburgh’s deepest secret—Mary King’s Close. Back in the 1600’s, Mary King’s Close and neighboring closes were Edinburgh’s busiest and most vibrant streets, open to the skies and bustling with traders selling their wares to the Old Town’s residents. Now Mary King’s Close is a warren of narrow underground alleys and spaces shrouded in myths, mysteries and tales of ghosts. Urban legend claims plague victims were quarantined and left there to die. Then their corpses were used to build the walls. Head to the bottom of the famous Royal Mile where you’ll find the 17th century Palace of Holyroodhouse, the modern parliament building and the prehistoric, extinct volcano famously known as Arthur’s Seat—all proudly standing next to each other.

GRASSMARKET Just a short walk away is the eclectic Grass

market—once a medieval marketplace and site for public executions. Now the Grassmarket is a vibrant area buzzing with lively drinking spots and eclectic shops. Its detailed medieval architecture, stunning castle views and dynamic atmosphere make it one of the city’s most-loved places. Though Grassmarket executions ceased in the 1700s, some of the traditional pubs in the area still keep the tales of its checkered past alive.

If you’re strapped for time but want to see a lot of the sights, then the one-hour open top hop-on-hop-off City Sightseeing Bus Tour is ideal. Get a birds-eye view from the top deck and explore sights including Edinburgh Castle, Palace of Holyroodhouse and the Royal Yacht Britannia.

FESTIVALS Edinburgh is famed for being the world’s leading festival city. During festival season it feels as if every shop, bar and available space has become a venue. This summer sees outstanding festivals flood the city with color and heart-thumping excitement, while the autumn nights are illuminated by the Scottish International Storytelling Festival. ART FESTIVAL (28 JULY-28 AUGUST) Edinburgh’s Art Festival has grown to become the UK’s largest annual festival of visual art. This year, taking place in partner galleries and pop-up venues throughout the city, Edinburgh’s creative spirit lives on with Art Late—a series of late night openings and events, combining the city’s vibrant art scene, live music, performances, artist talks and art tours. ROYAL EDINBURGH FESTIVAL TATTOO (5-27 AUGUST) Each year the Royal Edinburgh Tattoo bring together thousands of people for this annual celebration of music. It’s very much a “global gathering” as it showcases the talents of musicians and performers from every corner of the globe.

specially compiled soundtrack of music by Scottish rock band Mogwai. FESTIVAL FRINGE (5-29 AUGUST) Every Wednesday and Friday throughout the Festival Fringe you get to solve an intriguing puzzle down in the depths of the Edinburgh Dungeons with a Deadly Dungeon Murder Mystery. You’ll be investigating the shocking murder of Judge Mental. Watch out though—you might encounter a few unsavory characters from Edinburgh’s past along the way.

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INTERNATIONAL BOOK FESTIVAL (13-29 AUGUST) Set in a specially created tented village in Charlotte Square Gardens in the heart of Edinburgh’s New Town, the Edinburgh International Book Festival has something for just about every age and every interest. Here avid bookworms, budding writers and talented storytellers gather. MELA (27-28 AUGUST) C The Edinburgh Mela is a two-day festival celebrating Scotland’s diverse culture M through its music, dance and wider arts from around the world all with the Y express purpose of promoting community cohesion. CM

INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL (5-29 AUGUST) This year’s International Festival will have you see Edinburgh Castle in a whole new light. It’s an epic, outdoor, public artwork which brings together spectacular animation, lighting and music and delves deeply into 350-million years of Edinburgh’s history. Stunning animations will be projected onto the side of Edinburgh Castle, accompanied by a

MY HIDDEN TREASURES But Edinburgh is about far more than its famous attractions or its festivals. CY There are hidden museums, surprise CMY views, secret gardens, quirky buildings— including a clutch of castles—and someK lovely walks. Yes, in the heart of the city. Even the major museums and galleries can surprise. The Scottish National Portrait Gallery, for example, has a rooftop garden showcasing the country’s rich variety of habitats, from the alpine flowers of its mountains to the grasses of its coastal region. The rooftop also has a stunning panoramic view of the city’s spires, domes, towers and turrets. Tucked down a hidden close off the Royal Mile is the Writers Museum, which any devotee of Rabbie Burns, Sir Walter Scott or Robert Louis Stevenson will want to browse. Edinburgh has a wealth of green spaces. There’s the huge green sward of Holyrood Park where you can skirt the volcanic heights of Arthur’s Seat on a pleasant stroll to Duddingston Village and lunch at the characterful Sheep Heid Inn, Edinburgh’s oldest surviving pub. v

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Edinburgh has all the tantalizing set pieces: the castle and the palace, grand galleries and gracious streets, but there’s so much more to it. WOW air now offers cheap flights to Edinburg from USA, Canada and Iceland.

WE GO THE EXTRA MILE! Issue four 109 Book online www.specialtours.is / info@specialtours.is Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour

A French road trip

Cognac country They say Cognac will thrive as long as the world has sorrows to drown. Our WOW magazine correspondent Cindy-Lou Dale took a drive through this famous wine-growing region of France. Text and photos by Cindy-Lou Dale

A two-and-a-half-hour train journey from Paris delivered me to Angouleme, the first stop to my cognac safari through France. Angouleme is known the world over as France’s comic strip capital, where street names are depicted within speech bubbles and comic art is showcased on walls around the city. Once I’d done a couple of circuits of the must-see spots and looked politely into the windows of designer boutiques, I found myself glancing at my watch wondering when my Citroën 2CV6 would arrive. AN ICONIC DRIVE Some may dismiss Citroën’s iconic 2CV as nothing more than a tin can originally destined as a cheap run-about for farmers. It was designed to carry four people (or a small farm animal) across freshly plowed fields, which its ludicrously soft suspension allowed. Its low price tag meant the large majority of France could now afford a motor vehicle. Unsurprisingly, back in 1948, when they were first released, Citroën soon had a five-year waiting

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list. Economical on fuel, cheap to maintain, with a near immortal air-cooled engine, the 2CV was the perfect family car with a removable back seat which conveniently doubles as a picnic bench. After finding a gear I liked and deciding which side of the road to drive on, I bombed along country roads towards Cognac (45-minutes), driving through a veritable mosaic of vined valleys and deep forests, punctuated with ancient villages. I was surprised to note other road users would pull over, allowing me passage, while others stopped and stared. This, I was later told, is the nostalgia felt by the natives when spotting a meticulously restored 2CV. A SPIRIT GUIDE In Cognac, I took a guided walk around the old quarter where the comforting aromas of clove and cinnamon hung thick in the air above the cobbled lanes.

“Wines were heated to make brandy so they would travel well to neighboring countries,” my Cognac guide professed. “But it was the introduction of double-distillation in the early 17th century which put the town on the map. Eau-de-vie was traditionally stored in oak barrels and one day, a delay in loading the boats left them on the quayside. Far from affecting the quality of the product, the liquid was found to have improved with age. The local merchants quickly expanded their international reach and by the 19th century, cognac was widely exported.” After finding a gear I liked and deciding which side of the road to drive on, I bombed along country roads towards Cognac (45-minutes), driving through a veritable mosaic of vined valleys and deep forests, punctuated with ancient villages.

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Lækjarbrekka restaurant - Bankastraeti 2, 101 Reykjavik - Tel: (+354) 551 4430 - www.laekjarbrekka.is - info@laekjarbrekka.is Issue four 111

The medieval warehouses that guard the cognac were shaded with a peculiar black mold. “This,” my guide advised, “was a derivative of the fumes which escape the aging casks of cognac—this is the work of angels.” The walls and air around the warehouses were quite literally saturated with pleasing fumes. I watched the driver of a shiny truck pull into the courtyard of an ancient castle, Chateau des Valois, where he proceeded to hook up a pipe to draw aged cognac from casks stored in the castle’s dank underground caves. “They’ll be bottling Maison Otard cognac at their nearby modern plant,” my guide announced. I thought this paradoxical image somewhat fitting as cognac may be the most contradictory spirit born of French soil. With an international reputation as a luxury spirit, it has a privileged and authoritative semblance which brings to mind cigars, club chairs and smoking jackets.

The hour-long tour ended in Meukow’s restaurant where glistening bottles of yellowgold nectar awaited my sampling. I had to steel myself as it was their two liqueurs I was most eager to meet. Finally, a frosted bottle of Meukow’s Vanilla was presented and served in a cold glass—a subtle almond and cinnamon, milk chocolate silk with a smooth vanilla afterglow. But the pièce de résistance is the dangerously drinkable Meukow Xpresso, a deep mahogany latex-like liquid revealed by the crystal clear panther on the side of the bottle. I could have happily spent the rest of the day getting to know its sensual coffee aromas and smooth mocha-like undertones. Instead, I took in a superb cognac infused lunch.

But the pièce de résistance is the dangerously drinkable Meukow Xpresso, a deep mahogany latexlike liquid revealed by the crystal clear panther on the side of the bottle.

A TASTE OF EXCELLENCE With a reputation in distillation, aging and blending some of the finest cognacs in the world, A C Meukow, my next port of call, has a reputation to uphold. I had heard they’d created two liqueurs by infusing their VS cognacs with vanilla and espresso coffee respectively. I found myself looking into the menacing yellow eyes of Meukow’s trademark Panther, which opens their goose-flesh inducing video cellar tour. With backlit casks of cognac in their dark cellar, haunting music brought to life the silhouette of a large panther jumping onto a cask, lingering for a moment then disappearing into the blackness. What followed was a fastforward through the growth, harvesting and double-distillation process, resulting in a potent liquor which matures for at least twenty months in oak before earning its cognac label. It’s a slow, painstaking production process that still largely follows the methods established by Meukow’s founders.

A ROAD TRIP TO REMEMBER On my return, I found a long hill which my 2CV could just about negotiate at 12 km/h and was not surprised to see a three-mile long queue behind me. I’d always wanted to lead a parade! Going down the hill though, I quickly learned how to handle a no-power-steering 2CV through the bends, even though I was screaming. v

Want to experience Cognac country for yourself? A C Meukow Cognac Tasting Tours cost €10; gourmet meals start at €26. Go to www.meukowcognac.com for more information.Tour de Canard 2CV rental rates start at €109. Go to www.tourdecanard.com for more information. For Cognac travel ideas visit www.visit-poitoucharentes.com/en/Cognac-country.

Don’t forget your driving license. WOW air offers cheap flights to France from USA and Canada all year round. Keep the drinking and the driving separate and you’re in for an awesome road trip in France. WOW air offers cheap flights to Paris all year round and also to Lyon during the summer.

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THIS IS IT 2016 WELCOME

WHALE WATCHING • HÚSAVÍK • ICELAND

S ALLS INA IGIN RIG OR EO TTH HE Visit The Gentle Giants

up north in Húsavík – The Whale Watching Capital of Iceland “Awesome, but not necessarily for the reason you’d think” July 26th 2016 Admittedly, our trip with Gentle Giants was awesome because of the dozens—DOZENS—of Humpback and Minke whales we saw on our tour. At one point, we were literally smack dab in a pod of them, and it got to the point that there wasn’t a reason to take a photo if there would ONLY be 1 whale in the shot. It was absolutely incredible. But THIS is the reason I have to give these guys (and possibly other boat tours in Husavik, but my experience is limited to this group) a 5 star review—the whales approached the boat. “Ok, whatever, that is random and not a reason for saying this group is so good.” I disagree. We’ve traveled quite a bit around the world, and we’ve never seen animals like these approach the boat before, and when you think back on it, it’s pretty dang obvious why. Our crew worked hard to keep a safe distance from the whales, slowly drift, and allow the animals to come to us, and they had intimate knowledge of each whale we saw. We were very impressed by how responsible they were, and we’d gladly take a trip with them again!

“Oh my god” July 24th 2016 wonderful, we saw 4 Whale....my favourite excursion in Iceland. I recommand, a must to do if we stay in the north

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ns WOW destinatio

YOU WANT MORE? WOW! We’ve been starting services to a lot of new destinations recently but that doesn’t mean that our other routes have been forgotten. WOW air now has 29 destinations and there are still more to come. You can also check out our destinations at wowair.com.

WOW air offers several flights* a week to Copen hagen from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round. DUBLIN Ireland’s capital has become a modern European city without losing the grip on its Irish roots and just a stone’s throw away is the spectacular Irish nature.

ALICANTE Warm up by the Mediterranean Sea and taste the best of Spain. WOW air offers cheap flights to Alicante from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, four times a week during the summer months and 1-3 times a week from March to May and September to January.

COPENHAGEN The former capital of Iceland is still a favorite among Icelanders and now’s your chance to find out why.

WOW air offers several flights* a week to Dublin from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round. BARCELONA Barcelona truly is the perfect destination; tasty tapas, seaside promenades and mind-blowing architecture. Getting there is the easy part. WOW air offers 2-4 flights a week to Barcelona from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, from the middle of May until October.

DÜSSELDORF This great city on the Rhine is famous for its art and culture, luxury fashion and lifestyle. WOW air flies to Düsseldorf, Germany from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, twice a week during the summer months.

BERLIN The capital of cool and quirky is one of our most popular destinations. With history on every corner, a nightlife scene that truly lives up to its name and great shopping for everyone, Berlin won’t let you down.

AMSTERDAM A city of art, architecture, cool people and canals, and don’t forget windmills, weird wooden shoes and tulips. Amsterdam is a fairytale and a great place to visit. WOW air offers cheap flights* to Amsterdam from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round.

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Hop onboard. WOW air offers several flights* a week to Berlin, Germany from USA, Canada and Iceland, all year round. BOSTON The city that’s famous for Cheers and good shopping. WOW air offers cheap flights to Boston from Iceland 4-6 times a week all year round. Connecting flights* to Boston are available from most WOW destinations in Europe.

FRANKFURT Frankfurt am Main, aka “Mainhattan” is Germany’s most cosmopolitan city but that doesn’t mean history isn’t appreciated there. When you visit Frankfurt don’t miss out on the Mosel Valley for a taste of Germany’s best wines. Prost! WOW air offers flights* to Frankfurt am Main from USA, Canada and Iceland several times a week all year round.

LYON Experience the gastronomic capital of France with all its history and vibrant cultural scene.

NICE Let the Mediterranean climate warm you up at the capital of the French Riviera.

WOW air flies to Lyon from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, twice a week during the summer months.

WOW air flies to Nice from Iceland two times a week from June to September.

GRAN CANARIA The city of Las Palmas in Gran Canaria is a new destination because we love getting our guests into the sun during the winter.

MILAN Get ready for high fashion and high culture and don’t forget to feast your eyes on da Vinci’s Last Supper.

WOW air offers weekly flights to Gran Canaria from Iceland from November to May.

WOW air flies to Milan, Italy from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, 2-3 times a week from June to September.

Experience the wonders of Vatnajökull glacier Glacier Walks

Ice Climbing

Enjoy the unforgettable landscapes Discover the stunning scenery of around Jökulsárlón. the Vatnajökull National Park.

are! Here we

ABOUT USTOHOW TO BOOK? HOW BOOK? Hali Glacier Adventure is a small company owned and run by info@glacieradventure.is info@glacieradventure.is two local families. Our goal is to share ourwww.glacieradventure.is love and www.glacieradventure.is 12 km Tel:+354 571-4577 knowledge of the region with our clients and to +354 safely 571 4577 Jökulsárlón introduce them to some of Iceland´s most stunning sights. #glacieradventure Issue four 115

ROME All roads lead to Rome but we’re going to fly to this most famous world capital.

WARSAW The capital of Poland has some historic charisma and is a great destination if you’re on a budget.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Rome from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, once a week from the end of June to September.

WOW air offers flights to Warsaw from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, three times a week during the summer months and weekly from September to January and in April and May.

TENERIFE Relaxing on a tropical island sounds like a dream and Tenerife is a dream come true. WOW air offers weekly flights to Tenerife Sur from Iceland all year round and twice a week in January, February and March.

TORONTO This hip and happening city is a cultural melting pot where you’ll find world renowned restaurants, a vibrant nightlife and super friendly Canadians. Check out Canada! WOW air offers cheap flights* to Toronto from Europe, several times a week, all year round.

SALZBURG Looking for that perfect winter destination? European ski resorts are known for being budget friendly and the Austrian Alps’ best ski resorts are just a short drive from Salzburg Airport. Pack your skis; WOW air flies to Salzburg from Iceland once a week from December to March.

STOCKHOLM Ultra-modern and relaxed, Stockholm mixes cutting edge design and architecture beautifully into its historic and medieval setting. Keep up with the times. WOW air offers up to four flights* a week to Stockholm, Sweden all year round. Starting this November WOW air will fly to Stockholm Arlanda Airport instead of Stockholm Västerås Airport.

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VILNIUS Are you hungry for something different? Visit the capital of Lithuania and see the UNESCO World Heritage listed Old Town. WOW air offers flights between Vilnius and Iceland once a week during the summer.

WASHINGTON, D.C. Are you ready for a monumental trip? Get acquainted with the history of the United States of America and enjoy this great capital. WOW air offers cheap flights* to Washington, D.C. from Europe, several times a week, all year round.

The WOW Stopover When flying between North America and Europe take advantage of our WOW Stopover option. The WOW Stopover allows you to visit Iceland at no additional airfare. It’s kind of like getting two vacations for the price of one. Find out more at wowair.com * Note that the availability of connecting flights between USA and Europe may vary depending on the flight frequency to each city. WOW air connects London, Bristol, Edinburgh, Dublin, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Paris, Stockholm, Alicante, Barcelona, Lyon, Milan, Rome and Warsaw to Boston, Washington, D.C., Los Angeles and San Francisco in the US and Toronto and Montréal in Canada.

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THIS AND THAT …

MOSTLY THIS

The only app you’ll need in Iceland

Sailing around the world

The BeIceland app will surely become your secret weapon when in Iceland. This travel app is really the only app you’ll need if you’re traveling here and it’s used by visitors and locals alike. The app can be downloaded for free for both Android and IOS devices and allows you to book various adventures and sight-seeing tours and receive vouchers within the app. Based on your location, BeIceland can help you locate most of Iceland’s amazing natural attractions, historic places, towns, hotels, campsites and restaurants which can even be filtered according to your favorite food. The app even helps you find ATMs and recycling stations should you need them. Don’t have a smartphone? No problem! Go to beiceland.is, where you can start planning your travels in Iceland right now.

The first Icelandic sailboat to sail around the globe came back home this summer. The sailboat, Hugur, belongs to the adventurous couple Kristófer Oliversson and Svanfríður Jónsdóttir, who took on the cruise to celebrate their 60th birthday and 40th wedding anniversary. They started their voyage in November 2014 and sailed for 15 months as a part of a World Cruising Club rally. They had their ups and downs; a leak, a fire, a power shortage and an engine breakdown, but have now arrived home safe and sound with a brand new “first” on our tiny nation‘s badge of honor.

A hot (spring) mess The town of Hveragerdi, a 40-min ute drive from Reykjavik, is known for its geothermal activity. An hour long hike from the town gets you to a hot spring river in Reykjadalur, perfect for bathing in amazing scenery. Recently it has become hugely popular with tourists, but until about two years ago not many people knew

Photo: Dash_med / iStockphoto.com

about the river. Therefore, there are no facilities you would expect at a major tourist attraction. With hundreds visiting every day, this beautiful spot is suffering. Guests leave a pile of garbage each day—clothing, tents, disposable grills… you name it. Since there is no organized cleaning, locals and other folks sometimes go and fetch the trash to keep the area clean. Since there are no changing rooms some hikers set up their tents to change in private and that is fine, but

keep in mind that camping overnight is not allowed since there are no bathrooms. Sadly, people repeatedly break this rule, leaving waste of all sorts. So, future Reykjadalur bathers— please treat Mother Nature kindly and follow local rules. No camping, bring your trash back and keep bathroom activities in the town’s bathrooms. Also, keep in mind that hot springs can be dangerous areas. Get your information before the hike and stay safe.

Our award winning Harpa

gn ús s

Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Centre has quickly become one of Reykjavik’s major landmarks. It was recently awarded the Business Destinations Travel Awards 2016 as the best meeting and conference center in Europe. Business Destinations is a quarterly travel magazine and website aimed at the regular business a traveler and those M n tin ris working in the business :K tos o h P travel industry. Business Destinations Travel Awards gather together the Leading Lights in business travel from airports and conference centers to luxury hotels and apartment complexes. The awards are voted for by business travelers from across the globe. The magazine covered Harpa in the Winter Issue 2015 and the hall was subsequently nominated for the award. Business Destinations is a key source of information and inspiration for those who regularly book or undertake business travel. For their Harpa coverage and other great articles and stunning imagery, visit www. businessdestinations.com.

Eat fine and eat organic Frú Lauga is a local shop in central Reykjavik, which sells fresh groceries from Icelandic farmers and imported goods from the mainland, especially Italy. The owners take pride in carrying quality, organic food—good for the body as well as the environment. This past July, they opened a brand new café and lunch restaurant situated downtown in the Reykjavik

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Art Museum. The museum is at Tryggvagata 17, in a house called Hafnarhúsið, and the café is on the second floor. Frú Lauga’s fine Eatery offers delicious and healthy food including locally grown and sourced ingredients, high-quality Italian coffee and a great selection of natural wines. The Eatery is open every day from 10-17, except for Thursdays when they host special wine and beer tasting evenings, staying open until 10 o’clock in the evening. You can follow the Frú Lauga crew on Facebook for regular updates on their freshest products.

THIS AND THAT …

MOSTLY THIS

by Eygló Árnadóttir

The exhibition will be on view until September 4th.

e golden circ h T le

super truc k

Photo: Tristan Fewings / Getty Images, courtesy of Barbican Art Gallery

all year round

a on

Barbican Art Gallery in London recently opened the first ever UK survey exhibition of the work of the internationally acclaimed Icelandic artist Ragnar Kjartansson, charting his wideranging practice across film and performance, and his less well-known work as a painter and drafter. Kjartansson draws from a varied history of stage traditions, film, music and literature from Icelandic storytelling to opera music to contemporary pop culture. His performances, video installations, drawings and paintings explore the boundary between fact and fiction, as well as constructs of myth and identity. Music, repetition and endurance are key ingredients in Kjartansson’s video and performance works and the exhibition centers around two major works combining these elements. Another being his autobiographical performance, Take Me Here by the Dishwasher: Memorial for a Marriage (2014) that has been shown to much acclaim at the New Museum in New York. Full of romance and humor, ten male troubadours sing and strum their guitars against a projected soft-focus love scene acted by Kjartansson’s parents. The actors met on set and a family legend has it that Kjartansson was conceived at the time the film was shot in 1975.

Daily tours

nowmobilin ds g an

Ragnar Kjartansson’s Survey Exhibition in London

Icelandic landscape inspires California art

Pasadena Museum of California Art’s (PMCA) upcoming exhibition Lloyd Hamrol / Joan Perlman: A Sky in the Palm of the Hand has a particular focus on Iceland. The immersive exhibition pairs large-scale felt sculptures by Lloyd Hamrol with Joan Perlman’s abstract acrylic paintings and prints. Both Hamrol and Perlman embrace landscape as source and subject and examine the complex relationship between culture and nature. Perlman’s works are inspired by

the primary energy of geological forces and fostered by a two-decade engagement with the landscape of the far North. Working from her own and others’ footage of Iceland’s glacial meltwaters and vast terrains, Perlman’s prints and paintings explore the mutating relationship between land, water and ice in a changing climate. A Sky in the Palm of the Hand exhibition will be on view at PMCA from September 25th to February 19th next year.

Tel. (+354) 580 9900 ice@mountaineers.is www.mountaineers.is

Your Ticket to Adventure Issue four 119

THIS AND THAT …

MOSTLY THIS

WOW air on TripAdvisor We love giving you that WOW feeling and servicing our guests with a smile. WOW air is on TripAdvisor and we would love to get your fair and honest feedback after your travels. Help us out by giving us your review. We hope it’s a good one but we welcome all feedback so we can do even better in the future.

High fashion for a humanitarian cause One of the best-kept secrets of the Reykjavik shopping scene is the Red Cross clothes shops downtown. Recently renovated, they have never looked better and have an impressive selection of highly fashionable items, usually available for truly laughable prices. Although the Red Cross secondhand shops and thrift stores are a worldknown brand, the shops in Iceland have a unique advantage; Iceland is a consumer based and highly fashionminded nation. Icelanders buy so much clothing that they have to give the old ones away, even when the old ones

aren’t old or worn much at all. Buying all these clothes is hardly good for the environment and leaves us with an enormous carbon footprint unless they can be put to good use. Red Cross customers will, therefore, get some unique, fashionable duds, while leaving the shops with a good feeling.

You’ll find the Red Cross Shops at Laugavegur 12, Laugavegur 116 and Skólavörðustígur 12 in downtown Reykjavik. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10 am – 6 pm, Sat 12 noon – 4 pm.

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The Icelandic support team garnered some attention too, sometimes even more than the team itself for an amazing support, positive attitude and of course the chilling Viking clap… HUH! Finishing 8th after a defeat against France, the Icelandic team travelled back home into the arms of an extremely happy nation. Tens of thousands gathered in central Reykjavik, where the team drove through the crowds in an open top bus. There were dramatic speeches, there were happy tears and there was the biggest Viking clap yet. HUH!

The 10th CrossFit World Games were held in California last July, and for the fourth time the winner was an Icelandic woman. Katrín Tanja Davíðsdóttir now holds the title “The Fittest Woman on Earth” for the second year in a row. And not only that, but Iceland can now brag of their two female athletes who have won the title twice, starting with Annie Mist Þórisdóttir winning the Games in 2011 and 2012. Þórisdóttir’s achievement sparked quite the CrossFit fever in Iceland. She placed second in 2014 but had to drop out of the competition in 2015 after succumbing to a heat stroke. This year she had to settle for 13th place. The third Viking woman, Sara Sigmundsdóttir, followed Davíðsdóttir to the podium both times, and took third place this year as well as in 2015, each time after a fierce battle with the winner. The “Dóttirs” have certainly made their mark on the CrossFit World Games, with one or two Icelandic girls on the podium five times. Amazingly fit Valkyries making us proud since 2011. Congratulations Katrín Tanja Davíðsdóttir! You also get a giant HUH!

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TOP TEN

BEST RESTAURANTS IN ICELAND

If you followed the UEFA European Championship at all this summer, you must have noticed the Icelandic team and their very proud and loud supporters. This was the men’s national team’s first major tournament, becoming the smallest nation ever to qualify. Iceland was ecstatic to simply qualify for the first time, so when the players tied with Portugal (the eventual champions) in their first match, Icelanders went berserk and wildly cheered for their boys for the next two weeks. Even beating England, the team surprised everyone in making it to the quarter-finals.

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Can we get a HUH!?

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Katrín Tanja posed for the cover interview of WOW magazine last fall. Photo: Kristinn Magnússon

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THIS AND THAT …

MOSTLY THIS

Amazing 7 course menu

A unique Icelandic Feast

President Guðni Th. Jóhannesson addressed the participants and spectators of Reykjavik Pride Parade.

Photos: Roman Gerasymenko, courtesy of VisitReykjavik

Over the rainbow Every year during the first full week of August the gay community celebrates “Reykjavik Pride” with various events in the city, the highlight being a huge colorful Gay Pride parade (famous for the participant’s diversity). Last year’s opening event was a big hit when one of the main shopping streets in Reykjavik was painted in rainbow colors during the Pride festivities. Downtown walkers joined the painting job in a true community spirit, and the results were absolutely fabulous. The rainbow street became a very popular photo backdrop for the next few weeks and truly filled hearts with color and pride. This year the Pride festival also began with a paint brush, but now at a different location. This time the steps leading up to the Reykjavik Junior College were painted in rainbow colors. Unfortunately a decision was made to power-wash the steps shortly after the Gay Pride festival ended to the

Starts with a shot of the Icelandic national spirit “Brennivín“ Puffin – Smoked puffin with blueberries, croutons, goat cheese, beetroot

dismay of most citizens of Iceland. Hopefully next year’s rainbow will last a little longer. Reykjavik Pride and Saturday’s Pride parade down Laugavegur street is now one of the biggest festival in Reykjavik. This year Dagur Eggertsson, Reykjavik’s Mayor took part on a float for the first time but his predecessor, Jón Gnarr, had already paved the way, in drag no less. Another first this year was the participation of the president of Iceland. Newly elected Guðni Th. Jóhannesson was the first Icelandic president ever to attend the festivities and he also gave an address to the participants and spectators of the Pride parade. This was one of Mr. Jóhannesson’s first act in office and not only does it go down in Icelandic history books as a first, this is actually the first time a president officially partakes in a Pride festival anywhere in the world. Go Guðni!

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Issue four 121

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look!

WHAT’S GOING ON OVER HERE? QUITE A LOT ACTUALLY, AND IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO GO YOU CAN LIVE EACH NIGHT IN ICELAND LIKE THERE’S A FULL BLOWN FESTIVAL GOING ON.

by Eygló Árnadóttir Photos: From respective events

WHAT: Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits WHEN: Several shows a week until the end of August WHERE: Harpa, Reykjavik Concert Hall Located in Hverfisgata 54, 101 Reykjavik.

A movie lover’s paradise Located in the heart of downtown Reykjavik, Bio Paradis is a nonprofit organization run by Iceland’s professional filmmaking guilds. Screening the latest art house releases from all around the world as well as cult films and Icelandic films, it is Iceland’s first and only art house cinema. The theater provides a warm, cozy environment for film lovers of all kinds—both in its three-screen theater and its well-stocked bar.

Events in August and September 2016

WHAT: Happy Hour WHEN: Every day from 5-7 PM No need to explain—happy hour means the same in Iceland as everywhere else.

WHAT: Shakespeare honored WHEN: Late August and beginning of September

to watch the feature film One More Time With Feeling. The film will be shown in more than 650 cinemas worldwide on September 8th, the day before the release of the album.

WHAT: Russian Film Days WHEN: September 15 – 18

The first opportunity anyone will have to hear any of the songs from the new Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds album, Skeleton Tree, will be

Get your ticket to Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits at www.icelandicsagas.com and www.harpa.is.

Russian Film Days offer a selection of awardwinning films mixed with current Russian cinema, of course screened in the original Russian language with English subtitles.

Shakespeare died 400 years ago. What an excellent excuse to check out his classics in cool modern film versions; Romeo & Juliet and Richard III.

WHAT: One More Time With Feeling WHEN: September 8

Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits is a fast-paced and hilarious 75-minute theatrical comedy in English that takes you on a journey through Iceland’s literary heritage. The Icelandic Sagas are narratives, mostly based on historical events that took place in Iceland in the 9th-11th century. They tell of heroes and anti-heroes, villains, feisty females, betrayal, dispute, love, hate and last but not least, pillaging, plundering and murder. The Sagas are often hilariously grotesque, they hint at homosexuality, make light of gory murders and happen in a world where innocent things, like where to sit at a party, can turn into bloody family feuds and good poems can get you out of trouble with angry kings. This, of course, makes for great theater.

WHAT: Kris Kristofferson WHEN: September 26 WHERE: Harpa, Reykjavik Concert Hall

Spend the fall in Iceland’s one and only art house cinema, where all the programs are in English or with English subtitles, located in downtown Reykjavik!

Check out Bíó Paradís’ screening schedule at: www.bioparadis.is

WHAT: Fairy Fools and Fantastic Adventures WHEN: June 3 – September 26 WHERE: Reykjavik City Library, Culture House Grófin, Tryggvagata 15

The Volcano House is a good place to learn about Iceland’s geology via their exhibition and through their hourly screenings of two documentaries about Iceland’s most famous eruptions. 2011, Emmy-nominated documentary Eyjafjallajökull focuses on its eruption which interfered with all of Europe’s air traffic in 2010. The second documentary tells the story of the eruption in Westman Islands in 1973. The exhibition in the Volcano House is a geological one where you can hold ash from the eruption of Eyjafjallajökull and lava from the more recent eruption of Bárðarbunga in 2014. The exhibition also includes samples of pumice and semiprecious stones, and breathtaking photographs of past volcanic eruptions. Showtimes for documentaries in English are every hour on the hour from 10 am to 9 pm.

An unconventional exhibition space now holds a collection of comics by Þórey Mjallhvít. Located in the comic department on the second floor of the Reykjavík City Library and open until late September this year, the exhibition is a collection of comics, sketches and illustrations by Þórey. The focus is on material from her most recent work, a graphic novel about Ormhildur, the librarian, which will be published in September. Ormhildur is based on Icelandic folklore, describing an apocalyptic future where the glaciers have melted and monsters from folktales run loose. Þórey Mjallhvít graduated with a B.A. in animation from the University of Wales. She also has a master’s degree in creative writing from the University of Iceland. Thorey has written short stories, scripts and other tidbits.

The award-winning country legend Kris Kristofferson visits Iceland in September as a part of his last concert tour to Europe. Kristofferson is the world’s best known living country musician, famous for writing songs like “Me and Bobby McGee,” “Sunday Morning Coming Down,” “Help Me Make It Through The Night” and “Why Me Lord,” to name a few. This summer he turned eighty years old and decided on a European tour where he would only perform in countries he really wanted to visit.

For more information go to: www.volcanohouse.is/ Get your tickets at www.midi.is

Go to www.mjallhvit.is to view more of Þórey‘s work.

Get tickets to the show at www.tix.is or www.harpa.is

WHAT: The Volcano House Exhibition WHEN: From 10 am to 9 pm, every day of the week WHERE: The Volcano House, Tryggvagata 11

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We bring you closer to your loved ones MoneyGram money transfer is available at more than 30 post offices across Iceland

Easy. Fast. Reliable.

moneygram.is Service number: +354 580 1200 For calls to this number from mobile phones an additional fee may be charged by your provider.

ÂŠ2016 MoneyGram. MoneyGram and the Globe are registered trademarks of MoneyGram. All other marks are the property of their respective owner. MoneyGram International Limited is authorised and regulated in the United Kingdom by the Financial Conduct Authority. Issue four 123

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WHAT’S GOING ON OVER HERE? WHAT: Nordic Music Days WHEN: September 29 – October 1 WHERE: Harpa, Reykjavik Concert Hall

Nordic Music Days (NMD) is a threeday long contemporary music festival, hosted annually in turn by Norway, Denmark, Iceland, Sweden and Finland. Founded in 1888, NMD is one of the oldest music festivals in the world. Pioneering contemporary music by Nordic composers will be performed by leading ensembles and soloists from the Nordic region. In addition to the performance and sound art program, the Nordic Music Days Pavilion will premiere at the festival. The NMD Pavilion serves as a platform for experimental work, research, critical discussions, lectures, panel discussions and workshops. The Pavilion will tackle topics such as archiving in experimental music, gender equality in the contemporary music scene and culture politics within the Nordic countries. Find out more about NMD at www.nordicmusicdays.org

to dramas and short films to documentaries. It highlights independent filmmaking, with a special emphasis on up-and-coming filmmakers, and also encourages the interaction of film with other art forms by organizing concerts, photo exhibitions and more. The goal is to present new and progressive quality films, support innovation in filmmaking, network between professionals from various parts of the world and foster social and cultural dialogue.

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Reykjavik International Film Festival (RIFF) is one of the biggest cultural events in Iceland and takes place every year in late September. For eleven days the festival shows a broad range of films from over 40 countries, ranging from comedies

This summer Reykjavik City and its beauti ful concert hall Harpa present a new concert series, Reykjavik Classics. It is specifically designed to fulfill the demand raised by the enthusiasts of music among international travelers, in particular those who wish to listen to live performances of classical music. The performing artists are leading soloists in Iceland with international honors and professional achievements to their credit from the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and the Icelandic Opera. Each concert starts at 12:30 and lasts for 30 minutes without intermission. Harpa’s restaurant Smurstöðin offers a 10% discount off the lunch menu for concert ticket holders. Find out more about Reykjavik Classics at www.harpa.is

“

WHAT: Reykjavik International Film Festival WHEN: September 29 – October 9 WHERE: Various Reykjavik cinemas

WHAT: Reykjavik Classics WHEN: 12:30 pm, every day until August 14 WHERE: Harpa, Reykjavik Concert Hall

RIFF is an independent nonprofit organization so with the help of volunteers from all over the world, it has made a name for itself over the past decade as a noteworthy European film festival, with many famous international names in the movie business attending each year. Learn more at www.riff.is

WHAT: Culture in the Freezer WHEN: Sundays through Thursdays in August WHERE: The Freezer Hostel, Rif, West Iceland The Freezer Hostel is an award-winning social hostel, cultural center, professional theater and artist’s residency in rural Iceland. Here Icelandic arts, culture and local hospitality come together to create unforgettable memories for those looking for the complete West Icelandic experience. As a professional theater, The Freezer produces new shows, performed in English and created by local artists. All of the shows in this fish factory style theater have received rave reviews gaining the Freezer an excellent reputation for creating these very entertaining high-quality performances. The shows are usually inspired by sagas and stories from West Iceland. Its main goal is to rejuvenate these sometimes forgotten tales and make them come alive for new audiences in an exciting and unforgettable way. In the summer of 2016, The Freezer will be running an ambitious 12week program of five individual shows a week, all performed by their team of professional actors. The program includes two new shows; Genesis and One Night Stand Up with Grandma Dídí, and three of their most critically acclaimed ones; MAR, HERO and 21:07. On top of all this, The Freezer sits right next door to all the natural wonders of Snæfellsjökull Glacier National Park and is in a perfect spot for witnessing the Northern Lights during the winter, a spectacular show in itself

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For more information, booking and special events go to www.thefreezerhostel.com

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Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection.

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Issue four 125

LIBRA

23 SEPTEMBER - 23 OCTOBER

ARIES

21 MARCH - 19 APRIL You are on the verge of finding your soulmate. Look to your right… in a few days you will be kissing this person passionately, and then live happily ever after. Sucks to be you if there’s nobody sitting there.

TAURUS

You are always so well behaved and sensible. It’s getting a bit old. This is your moment. Let it all loose for once. Wear your freak flag with pride and party like it’s 1999!

SCORPIO

24 OCTOBER - 21 NOVEMBER Saturn is in the third house and you know what that means… your mom’s best friend’s dentist will have an amaz ing love adventure this week! What a lucky dog.

20 APRIL - 20 MAY If a puffin, Björk and a Pokémon chaser walked into a bar together, they couldn’t dream up the week you’re about to have. Wear sensible shoes, fill your pockets with energy bars and have the Google Maps app ready.

GEMINI

21 MAY - 21 JUNE

SAGITTARIUS

22 NOVEMBER - 21 DECEMBER Your childhood dreams of being famous are finally coming true. This week an Instagram photo of you goes viral in a small European country. Hopefully, it’s a photo that will make your mama proud.

You are the Hermione to their Harry and Ron. Courage doesn’t cut it; someone has to do the homework and know stuff! So make sure you read every article in this magazine thoroughly. You know it will pay off for the trip.

CAPRICORN

CANCER

AQUARIUS

22 JUNE - 22 JULY Stay away from fire, ax murderers, sharp objects and slippery floors! Otherwise, you‘re pretty good this month.

LEO

23 JULY - 22 AUGUST The stars say you will travel this week. There will definitely be some kind of journey from one place to another, likely involving an airplane. Or a really big bird. Parachuting maybe? No, pretty sure it’s the bird.

VIRGO

22 DECEMBER - 19 JANUARY Love is in the air… your stars this month scream a super romantic proposal! Wait, you’re already married? Well, this might get awkward.

20 JANUARY - 18 FEBRUARY Trying to be romantic you accidentally set your coworker’s desk on fire and waste all that expensive champagne putting it out. When will you learn that an office romance is a bad idea?

PISCES

19 FEBRUARY - 20 MARCH This year, everything will become just as clear as it is unclear. Because when a blind man holds the key to life’s secret doors, the answers get green as grass. Let the ripples in the water guide you forward.

23 AUGUST - 22 SEPTEMBER In a few days you will read a very accurate horoscope that will come true, down to the very last detail. It will finally give you faith in horoscopes.

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Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsence. Any accuracies, real or imagined by readers, are purely incidental.

Issue four 127

WOW SUDOKU BUT HOW DO I DO IT?

REALLY, REALLY BORED? HERE ARE A FEW SUDOKUS TO MAKE TIME FLY.

The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: Each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler?

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WOW Power to the people

THE TRAVELING INQUISITION

FULL MARRIAGE EQUALITY FOR ALL Guðni Kristinsson is a travel guide for Pink Iceland, a LGBTQ travel company based in Reykjavik. His favorite place in Iceland is in the highlands where everything seems closer to the midnight sun. Cuba is Guðni’s favorite place abroad because that’s where he can dance salsa on white-sand beaches with his Cuban fiancé Carlos. by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: From private collection

“We go to Cuba every year. There is no direct flight to Cuba from Iceland. The best way to go is through Toronto or Montreal and it’s great to stay in Canada for a few days before heading on to sunny Cuba.”

Guðni Kristinsson is full of energy, something that’s necessary for a wise and funny tour guide, and he’s worked as a travel guide for Pink Iceland since 2012. It goes without saying that he knows Iceland well. Guðni grew up on a farm in South Iceland, just a few miles from Iceland’s second most active volcano, Hekla.

WORKING AT PINK ICELAND “At Pink Iceland, we specialize in day tours, weddings, international and domestic events and festivals as well as organizing tailor-made luxury travel. We love all and serve all, as long as they’re not mean. Just don’t be mean. Life’s too short,” Guðni says. Weddings are a big part of the company’s business and to tell you the truth, weddings are one of Guðni’s favorite things about his job. “We’ve had full marriage equality in Iceland since 2010 and Iceland is actually one of few countries where you can get married without living there. We’ve done all kinds of weddings like on a glacier and under the northern lights.” Guðni says some people opt for a small ceremony; they even choose the natural alter, like standing on the grass under the bright sunlight. “Winter weddings in Iceland can be a challenge. Sometimes we have Plan A, B, C and even D. One time a winter wedding was going to take place on a black sandy beach. A storm hit and nobody could get to the place but the brides were already there. They went to a horse stable and fell in love with the place. They called one of the guides at Pink Iceland and told her they wanted to get married in the stable. So the next day when the weather improved, they got married in the horse stable. It was a beautiful ceremony and most of the “guests” were Icelandic horses.” Guðni decided to share another work story with us. “One time on my way to the Blue Lagoon one of my guests was so excited to go there because he had heard it was the only place in the world where you could swim in water from a nuclear power plant. I was a bit taken aback. Just to be clear, the Blue Lagoon is not a nuclear power plant but it is located next to a geothermal power plant and the water is healing, not toxic.” A FEAST FOR ALL THE SENSES Guðni says that people who come to Iceland are almost always struck by its beauty and love the nature. He has discovered that Pink Iceland’s guests also love the food in Iceland. “Reykjavík has many fantastic restaurants but in the countryside, there are many hidden jewels, like the farm Efsti-Dalur and Friðheimar Greenhouse on the Golden Circle tour. Another one is Slippurinn in Vestmannaeyjar Islands. When Guðni is asked about his favorite place in Iceland, he begins to talk about Denmark. “While I was studying at Kaos Pilot Project/Process School in Denmark, I came to Iceland every summer and worked in the Highlands, in an area called Fjallabak. It’s an amazing area with beautiful colorful mountains and hot geothermal baths. I loved hiking around Ljótipollur Lake and the waterfall in the area called Rauðifoss or Red Waterfall plus taking a bath in the natural hot pool at Landmanna laugar. The area is easily accessible during the summer but only on super jeeps in the winter SWEET, SUNNY CUBA Guðni lives with his handsome fiancé, Carlos, who is Cuban and Cuba is Guðni’s favorite place abroad. “We go to Cuba every year. There is no direct flight to Cuba from Iceland. The best way to go is through Toronto or Montreal and it’s great to stay in Canada for a few days before heading on to sunny Cuba. “I stayed there for over three months in 2005 and I fell in love with the island. For me, Havana is terrific but South Cuba is my favorite, because of the amazing culture and scenery, particularly a city called Baracoa. That place is known for delicious candy called Cucurucho—wrapped in a cone-shaped palm leaf, it’s a mix of coconut, sugar and other ingredients such as oranges and pineapple.” Guðni and Carlos want to get married in Cuba with both their families as witnesses. Since samesex marriages aren’t legal in Cuba they plan to speak to President Raul Castro’s daughter, Mariela, to get permission to do a symbolic ceremony when the time comes. “Of course we will have a Pink Iceland wedding party in Iceland too,” adds Guðni. We wish the happy couple the best of luck. v

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WOW Power to the people

DRESS CODE ICELAND

Issue four 131

– Visit our stores: Skólavörðustígur 7 & 16, 101 Reykjavík, Akureyri and Geysir, Haukadal. geysir.com –