WOW magazine issue 1 2015

e azin mag Issue one 2015

Photogenic Iceland

Find out why Iceland is the perfect photo destination

yo u r f r e e c op y ta k e m e w i t h yo u

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We are improving the airport!

The new duty free area will open in May, 2015.

We’re improving the duty free area that will be ready in May, 2015. In the meantime, all shops are open as usual so you can get good food, a warm cup of coffee and Icelandic quality products before your travels.

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For further information, log on to www.kefairport.is/betterairport

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HOTEL GEYSIR elegaNt restauraNts, spa with hot spriNg jacuzzi, beautiful Nature & fuN activities

Geysir TOp 25 besT places TO phOTOgraph On The planeT earTh popphoto.com

Nice aNd cozy rooms iN chalet or oNe wiNg hotel right opposite of the hot spriNg geyser area gourmet a la carte restauraNt local luNch buffet every day hotel & spa outdoor activities all year rouNd amaziNg NortherN lights

Welcome,

hotel geysir 4

WOW Power to the people

W E LC O M E TO G EYSIR the geysir ceNter is directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great geysir aNd strokkur e

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geysir glima bistro Coffee house With freshly ground Coffee sWeet iCe Creams & Cakes traditional iCelandiC meat soup fish soup & vegetarian soup loCal food museum of hot springs, volCano and iCelandiC glima

The geysir cenT er haukadalur www.geysircenter.com / www.geysirglima.com / tel: +354 480 6800 / geysir@geysircenter.is www.facebook.com/hotelgeysir / www.twitter.com/hotelgeysir Issue one

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In this issue

Power to the people – Issue one 2015

A letter from the editor

Have a picture perfect holiday, Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir, editor in chief magazine@wow.is

WOW magazine staff

tun: Oddi umhverfisvottuð prentsmiðja

wowair.com

Tel: 00 354 590 3020 E-mail: magazine@wow.is

ERFISME HV R M

KI

© WOW air Katrínartún 12 105 Reykjavík Iceland

U

Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Design and layout: Ivan Burkni / ivan@ivan.is Contributing writers: Dísa Bjarnadóttir, Paul Michael Herman, Svava Jónsdóttir, Gunnlaugur Rögnvaldsson, Kenneth Nguyen, Gerður Harðardóttir, Einar Skúlason, Jonas Löfvendahl and www.festivals.is Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman

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32 Destination wedding Iceland is the perfect backdrop for cool wedding photos.

50 Abandoned beauty What is it that draws us in when it comes to abandoned farms and houses?

56 Solar eclipse Would you like to see the last grand solar eclipse over Europe in a while? Iceland is a great spot to see this magnificent event.

58 Frozen moments Amateur photographer Ásgeir Pét­ ursson is a wizard with his camera.

60 Just a moment … … a WOW moment!

62 The edgy work of Nicklas Elmrin Swedish photographer, Nicklas Elmrin, captured Iceland for his poetic book of the countryside’s barren beauty.

64 Ambience of winter The winter months in Iceland often create ethereal lighting and an incredible atmosphere, and we’re not just talking about the amazing northern lights.

66 Flair in the air WOW crew’s latest photo shoot was fun for all.

68 Light up “The Family” “The Family” is a line of candleholders made of birch wood.

m ag FInd out why iceland is the perFect photo destInatIon

yO u r f r e e c O P y ta k e m e W i t h yO u

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Our cover was shot by the talented Eyjólfur Már Thoroddsen, aka Ao,

by Skógafoss waterfall on Iceland’s south coast. See more of Ao’s photography on pages 20-24.

Photographer/editing: Ao Thor Photography Model: Berglind Pétursdóttir Dress and jewelry: Miss Aniela Stylist: Minna Attala Hair and makeup: Grace Gray Production: Miss Aniela, Matt Lennard (lighting and production), Daniel Lennard, Ao Thor, Artic Advanced and Photography Guide

70 Extreme driving Many adventures await you in Iceland, one of them is traveling to the glaciers in style.

74 Off the road and right

on track A new all-terrain 4x4 vehicle has been designed in Iceland. It’s called the Ísar TorVeg and the first models should hit the roads and glaciers this year.

76 The Harpa Concert Hall Harpa Concert Hall is a grand jewel near the harbor in downtown Reykjavík where you can enjoy music, attend conferences and enjoy delicious food.

78 The Realm of Vatnajokull The inspiration for Iceland’s name.

82 The Way of St. James Why would anyone take a month and walk 800 km in the north of Spain along the trail El Camino de Santiago? Einar Skúlason tells us all about his wonderful adventure.

86 Monumental Washington Paul Michael Herman explores the meaning and history behind one of Washington, D.C.’s biggest icons— The Washington Monument.

88 Boston PhotoWalks Saba Alhadi has lived in the Boston area for over 30 years and has her own company where she helps visitors see the city from a different angle.

90 Panoramic Ireland Photographer Darren McLoughlin says walking, and more walking, is how he’s really gotten to know Dublin.

94 Terrific Tenerife “Tenerife has the perfect winter climate, and besides that, it has excellent food and great architecture,” says photographer Olaf Reinen.

98 Picture perfect Paris It was in Paris where Louis Daguerre presented the world’s first known practical photographic process in 1839 and what better city to capture on film than this great city of lights.

100 Photographing Rome Photographer Steve Bisgrove fell in love with the Roman way of life and loves to show people the best places to photograph in this historic city.

102 This and that … mainly this.

106 What’s going on? … quite a lot, actually.

110 WOW horoscope What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed astrologist has the answer.

112 Bored on board?

Solve these sudokus.

114 The Traveling Inquisition We caught up with artist Odee and questioned him on his exploits.

P.S. Would you like your very own copy of WOW magazine?

Take this one with you or contact us through magazine@wow.is and we’ll send you a printed copy.

You can also check out WOW magazine online at wowair.com.

PRENTGRIPUR

Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit from publisher.

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28 Living behind the lens Instagram sensation Kenneth Nguyen came to Iceland last fall and took some magnificent photos that he was kind enough to share with us.

On the cover Issue one 2015

Last summer, while trying to fix up an old country home, I came across a surprisingly well preserved Kodak slide projector and a case full of old slides. These items belonged to my great aunt, my grandmother’s sister, who died almost 30 years ago. She never had children of her own and lived in Norway for a while so her life has always been somewhat of an enigma to us. These slides have cast a little light on a part of it—her travels and her interests—and they have opened my eyes even wider to the value of photographs.

For most of us photographs are a way to share the good times, the travels and special occasions in our lives. Then there are those who take photographing a bit further, capturing the world around us and creating beautiful works of art that inspire us and make us go “WOW!” We met up with some of those for this issue.

This edition of WOW magazine is dedicated to anyone who has ever held a camera in the hope of snapping that perfect moment—so, wherever you are, keep on snapping, capturing the beauty and wonder of the world to share with others. And don’t forget, Iceland is the perfect photo destination!

26 Join the Icelandic circus The first thing people think about when they hear the word Iceland is probably not its circus culture.

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Photogenic iceland

Power to the PeoPle

Worth a thousand words

20 Photogenic Iceland Iceland truly offers exciting opportunities for exploring and photographing. Professional photographer Eyjólfur Már Thoroddsen is the person to go to if you are looking for a truly adventurous and unforgettable photography experience in Iceland.

WOW magazine – PhOtOgenic iceland

14 WOW Cyclothon WOW Cyclothon’s Media Team took a stroll down memory lane and picked their favorite moments from WOW Cyclothon 2014.

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12 Letter from the CEO

Attention advertisers!

Will your company be in our next issue?

Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen. He’s just that good!

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A letter from the CEO

Connecting the continents!

A new year brings new dreams! At WOW air there is no shortage of new ideas and big dreams so we are very excited about the year ahead. However we also recognize that in order to achieve our dreams we have to work hard on every detail of our business every day of the year. We must especially listen to you, our dear guests, and ensure that we continue to deliver a great service with a smile.

And listen we did! One of the most frequently asked questions we have received since the inception of WOW air is “When are you going to start flying to North America?” No wonder, since air fare prices to and from Iceland and North America have been prohibitively high for the last 20 years as there has been virtually no competition on this route. Therefore we are extremely pleased to start year round service to Boston, six times a week as of March 27th, and then to Washington/Baltimore, 5 times a week as of May 8th.

These are two great new destinations that we will also connect into our European network. As such WOW air is becoming the first Ultra Low Cost Carrier offering routes between Europe and North America at prices that have never been seen before.

We are very proud to lead the way into making the world a smaller place by enabling many more people to cross the continents. Boston and Washington are just the beginning as we envision more great destinations in North America as we continue to grow our fleet of Airbus aircraft. We are also growing rapidly in Europe by adding Rome and Billund as summer destinations and Amsterdam, Dublin and Tenerife as new, year round destinations.

All of this would not be possible if we had not received fantastic feedback and encouragement from our guests. We are grateful that you’ve chosen WOW air and that you’ve had a part in making our dream a reality.

Thank you and I look forward to seeing you again on board.

Sincerely, Skuli Mogensen

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WOW Cyclothon

The Media Team reveals all WOW Cyclothon is not for the fainthearted.

This great relay race is a competition of endurance and strategy and sometimes the difference between winning and losing is who can get the most sleep while crumpled up in a moving vehicle that speeds up and stops every 10-15 minutes. For WOW Cyclothon of 2014, a group of three hit the road to capture the race and report to the people back home who were watching its progress on their computers.

Photos: Kristinn MagnĂşsson

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or this issue of WOW magazine the WOW Cyclothon Media Team and WOW Cyclothon’s managing director in 2014, María Ögn Guð­­­ munds­­­dótt­­­ir, have decided to share their favorite mo­­ments from WOW Cyclothon 2014 with our readers.

Personal victories “Goosebumps and more goosebumps; that’s the feeling I get when I think back on our time in WOW Cyclothon 2014. The road, the light and not least the joy that was evident on everyone’s face, even after over 40 hours on the road. Sleeping in our car, in a small parking space out­­side Höfn, after being up for 30 hours; getting to take part in the overall happiness that flowed from every contestant and their assistants (even those who were really competitive); witnessing all these personal victories and getting to watch in my rear view mirror as the first two A teams finis­­hed their journey with the most magnificent final sprint in WOW Cyclothon history—us driving right in front of them; this was noth­­­ing short of spectacular.”

“Photograph­ ing the race was a great challenge, both physically and mentally. We drove for three straight days and nights and the whole time I had to keep on my toes to spot interesting moments.”

“The biggest surprise when photographing the race was that despite the stress and lack of sleep I never lost my joy and enthusiasm. The level of excitement was very high, it kept me going the whole time and I always had something to do. I was also lucky to have such great company that kept the spirit high.”

Kristinn Magnússon, WOW Cyclothon Media Team’s photographer.

Best road trip ever!

“I really didn’t know what to expect on the road and I honestly worried that I’d get bored. After all, this is a 1332 km race, the longest bicycle race in Iceland, how exciting can it get? Well, as it turns out… very! Spotting the teams, stopping to chat during their changeovers, trying to speculate on their strategies during the race, finding out which teams were working together, which teams were getting left behind and which were deciding to race ahead. Ohh and let’s not forget the solo contestants, the three guys who finished in the solo category are, in my opinion, the absolute heroes of WOW Cyclothon 2014.

Ólafur J. Stefánsson, WOW Cyclothon Media Team’s driver.

Landscape and light “My favorite moment in the WOW Cyclothon is without a doubt the final stretch when the first two A teams raced to the finish line for first place; that and getting to experience the competition and the constantly changing landscape and light in Iceland in the span of three to four days; it was all a very exciting and fun time.

“Photographing the race was a great challenge, both physically and mentally. We drove for three straight days and nights and the whole time I had to keep on my toes to spot interesting moments. It was equally im­­portant for me to compose my shots so that the con­­ testants and nature would play well together. I didn’t get a lot of rest during those three days, just a few hours each night during the duskiest hours.

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The final sprint. Team Örninn and Workforce A gave it their all in the most amazing final sprint of WOW Cyclothon history. Workforce A won by a tire length.

W E L C O M E

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B O A R D !

Elevate your encounter with Iceland!

Amazing helicopter tours around Iceland for individuals or groups. You can choose from a 20 minutes city sightseeing tour up to a whole day journey and everything in between.

AirTaxi! We are often available on short notice!

Your wish is our command!

The fleet is made up of the most modern and meticulously maintained helicopters on the market. The pilots are trained to the highest standards, experienced, friendly, multi-lingual individuals with great knowledge of Iceland’s spectacular nature.

They will make your journey unforgettable.

Safety and comfort of our customers is always our main priority.

• We operate from Reykjavik (city) Airport.

• We offer free transport services within Reykjavik city area in connection with our flights.

• We can, on the other hand, arrange for a pick up and/or drop off from and to just about anywhere in the country.

• You can either pick one of our tours or simply design your own.

• We are flexible.

Our service team is on duty 24/7 and will happily assist you at any time.

Check out our tours and prices on our website.

E-mail to info@rehe.is or call (+354) 589 1000 www.reykjavikhelicopters.com

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Solo contestants Þórður Kárason and Sigurður Gylfason celebrate at the finish line.

“Because they didn’t arrive at the finish line until day 4 of the race, the Media Team had gotten some much needed sleep following the excitement during the first three days and we were well rested as we went back on the road to meet up with the first two solo racers and follow them for the last 30-40 km of the race. The cam­­araderie and overall joy that we witnessed still makes me smile. I still can’t get myself to change the wallpaper on my computer, for some reason a photo of them celebrating at the finish line got stuck there after the race.

“Together with this awesome media team and feed­­­­­back and “likes” from the people following us on Face­­­­­­book and Instagram, this was absolutely the road trip of a lifetime.”

Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir, WOW Cyclothon Media Team’s editor.

“We are all ‘one’ on the road.”

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“I really didn’t know what to expect on the road and I honestly worri­ ed that I’d get bored. After all, this is a 1332 km race, the longest bicycle race in Iceland, how exciting can it get?

Brotherly love “As WOW Cyclothon’s 2014 managing director I got to ex­peri­ence this great race a little differently than the ones who actually competed. My job was to make sure they could safely enjoy the full WOW experience that is the WOW Cyclothon.

“Although I fully believed in myself throughout the whole project I was a little surprised when it was all over, that I’d really done all that work and that all the preparations and execution of the race had come together so perfectly.

On the morning of the race the weather was giving us all its worst; heavy rain and a lot of wind. I showed up at the starting line to start the solo contestants and was a little anxious to see if they would even show up but they were all there and smiling despite the weather. I had very mixed feelings as I sent them on the road, excited of course but also a little apprehensive. For me the next days and nights are all mixed into a continuous day—a very exciting and memorable one.

“As I only got to really experience the WOW Cyclothon at the start and finish lines I want to point out one of my favorite photos from the race. Seeing the broth­­­ er­ly love that this photo depicts has had a deep impact on me. In my opinion, and de­­spite the fact that people are competing against each other, it absolutely cap­­ tur­­es the spirit of WOW Cyclothon. We are ‘one’ on the road.”

María Ögn Guðmundsdóttir, WOW Cyclothon’s managing director 2014.

A good cause It’s not just about being in first place in the race. All teams collect pledges for a good cause and the one with the highest pledges wins the pledge competition.

All in all, WOW Cyclothon managed to raise 15,237,244 IKR for the Department of Orthopedic Surgery of the National University Hospital of Iceland.

Save the date!

WOW Cyclothon 2015 will be held June 23-26.

Registration for all categories is now open. Follow WOW Cyclothon on Facebook and Instagram and flip through the live feed from the competition for additional photos and insights from the Media Team.

Visit www.wowcyclothon.com for more information about the race, the rules and how to sign up.

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Photogenic Iceland

Adventurous and unforgettable Ice caves and active volcanoes, black beaches, rugged lava and rocky coastlines; mountains, waterfalls, natural hot springs and geysers, not to mention amazing birdlife, the midnight sun and the alluring northern lights; Iceland truly offers exciting opportunities for exploring and photographing. Professional photograph­er Eyjólfur Már Thoroddsen, or Ao Thor as he is better known, is the person to go to if you are looking for a truly adventurous and unforgettable photography experience in Iceland.

By Gerður Harðardóttir Photos: Ao Thor

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For years, Iceland has been a dream desti­­nation for photographers. Many of the growing number of tourists visit­ ing Iceland come here exclusively to photo­­graph the country, and no wonder, Iceland truly is a photographer’s para­­ dise. But landscape photography in Iceland is not always easy. Some of the country’s most photogenic locations can be far off the beaten track and you might have to do quite a bit of uphill hiking or cross treacherous rivers to reach prime vantage points. And since traveling solo is not always feasible in an artic country notorious for its fickle weather conditions, having a well-train­ ed and informed guide to escort you offers the ideal solution.

A photographic dream come true Ao Thor is the driving force behind Arctic Advanced, an innovating travel agency specializing in adventure tours in Iceland. Through his company, Arctic Advanced and his website, Photography Guide, Ao makes amateur and pro­­ fess­i­onal photographers’ dreams of shooting in Iceland come true. His work also entails producing workshops for professional photographers who want to bring their clients to Iceland for photo­­­­graphy workshops.

A CV worth its name Ao studied photography at the Art Insti­­­­tute of Fort Lauderdale in Florida, where he specialized in product and advertising photography, graduating with the highest honor in 2002. During and after his graduation, Ao worked with top photographers in Florida, speci­alizing in architectural, wedding, advertisement, portraiture and fashion photography. Ao interned with Miami Herald where he worked for a year after graduation, but in addition to photo­­­­graphing for Miami Herald, Ao has worked for big newspapers and maga­­zines in Europe and US such as Archi­­tectural Design and Maxim. After returning back to his native Iceland

in 2010, Ao freelanced for the largest magazine publisher in Iceland as well as working as an advertising, wedding and fashion photographer from his own studio.

Ao has vast production experience, having worked on film and advertising productions for over 15 years, domesti­­­ cally and abroad, both with the largest film and advertising production com­­ panies in Iceland as well as large foreign production companies, photographers and filmmakers shooting in Iceland.

Ao’s work with advertising and film pro­­duction involved scouting locations and photographing them for large pro­­ ductions such as the popular Games of Thrones series, which in part has been shot here in Iceland.

Throughout his work, Ao’s passion has been landscape photography and while working for film and advertising companies, scouting the country for ideal locations, Ao was able to visit and discover stunning locations around the country, frequently locations not even known to the average Icelandic traveler. Ao’s job as a location scout and photographer took him on top of glaci­­ers, into deep and often dangerous ice caves and to places not exactly within walking distance from the Ring Road. Consequently, Ao is thoroughly knowledgeable about the country and its dangers, something that can be vital when traveling in Iceland.

From A to Z In 2013, Ao was approached about start­­­­­ing a company servicing photo­­­­­ graphers, both amateur and profess­ ional, traveling to Iceland exclusi­vely to photograph, either land­­scape or fashion. Due to the growing demand this generated, today this is Ao’s main occupation. Ao’s company, Photography Guide, organizes special photography excursions, often custom-made accord­ing to the client’s wishes, as well as producing photo workshops for professional photographers that bring

Ao Thor, photographer.

Tips and tricks from the pro You’ll need: Tripod; a stable one.

Camera with a shutter speed of up to about 30 seconds.

Wide lenses, such as 17-40 and 16-35.

Long lenses are great for shooting mountains and valleys. A 100-400 lens would be an excellent choice.

Polorizing filters. ND filters are great, but then you will need a cable release. The filters cut out reflections, increase color intensity, saturation and contrast.

Warm clothing. If anything, overdress.

It’s a plus to have: Headlamp.

Spare batteries in your coat pocket; freezing temperatures and long exposures drain camera batteries.”

groups of clients to Iceland to photo­­ graph.

Ao is the project manager for the comp­any’s experienced crew and pro­­vides guidance in different fields by selecting local guides and special experts in different fields if necess­­ary.

“My work primarily involves helping to set up special workshops for professional photographers travel­­ing to Iceland especially with the aim of teaching their clients about photo­­ graphy. My job is to be their local expert in a planning and support service here in Iceland. I do the cost estimates for the workshops, project scheduling, manage the location picture database, do the location scouting and provide for the group’s team: arranging rental equipment and the necessary tools if needed, arranging transportation to get the group to the right locations, and arranging accommodations and the on-location catering service. I assist in booking the models, make-up artists and hairstylists if we are doing fashion shoots, and arrange for local tour guides if requested.

My work is usually not to be the tea­c­her at those workshops although I often assist the professional photographer leading the workshops. Rather, my job is to arrange everything else to do with the workshops from A to Z,” says Ao. Bespoke Tours Ao doesn’t only produce photography workshops for professionals such as the well-known landscape photo­­graph­ er David Noton who has worked with Ao twice and will be back once again in March 2015 to teach his clients all about landscape photography in Ice­­ land. A large part of Ao’s work involves organizing special tours for individuals around the country, where the focus is firmly on photography. “Throughout the year we offer a selection of package tours where a local photographer and other experts guide people on how to go about shooting the most stunning places in Iceland, such as Jökulsárlón, Snæfellsnes Peninsula, Hvítserkur and Dettifoss. It’s up to the client how much time he wants to spend on the tour, what kind of photography he’s interested in, where he wants to sleep and what he wants to eat; we cater to our clients every wish. If your dream is to combine photo opportunity with whooshing across a glacier on a dog­­ sled, then that’s what we’ll pro­vide for you. That’s actually quite an interesting thing to do while in Iceland as those dogs can be very photogenic,” says Ao.

G Photographer: Ao Thor Photography Model: Hulda Vigdísardóttir Dress and headpiece: Agnieszka Osipa Stylist: Minna Attala Hair and makeup: Grace Gray Producer: Miss Aniela

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The roads less traveled Some of the locations visited during Ao’s tours are too dangerous and seclud­ed to travel to on your own. “The high­­lands are often our destination and we frequently have to cross open rivers, wet sands or drive across glaci­­ ers. To reach our destination we use specially modified 4x4 trucks, driven by experienced driver guides, so that we reach our destination safe and sound. During the summer we often head towards the West Fjords or the East Fjords of Iceland, whereas most tourists visiting Iceland tend to explore only the south coast.” The West Fjords are particularly close to Ao’s heart, both because he owns a house at Strandir, one of the country’s most remote areas, where he spends a great deal of his free time, but also because the vast West Fjords offer plenty of picturesque places ideal for landscape photography.

“The West Fjords are my favorite place in Iceland for photography. The light, the raw arctic landscape and the dramatic high mountains, it’s just captivating. It’s by no means easy to work there since quite a few locations are difficult to reach, some of them only accessible by boat. But the West Fjords offer a large area to cover so the trips there are usu­­ ally at least 5 days, but mostly 10 days or even more. Although each and every part of Iceland boasts a great deal of natural beauty, I would have to say that the West Fjords are in a league of their own.”

Flexibility is key Each and every tour and workshop is flexible according to weather con­­ di­­tions and organized so that they can be altered on short notice. “We can easily find another location more suitable if the conditions are not right on a particular day; the itinerary is not written in stone, we are mobile and flexible. Our goal is to take you to the best photographic sites in Ice­­­­land where you get to experience, first hand, the diverse beauty of the Ice­­landic nature. We often book local guides to take us to interesting areas, best known to the locals. The tours also vary according to the client’s budget. We provide a night in a deluxe accommodation, standard B&B, high­ land cabin, hostel or a tent, what­­ever you wish and budget allows.”

Basic settings for your digital camera: Switch off the flash.

Set the camera speed to ISO 800 or 1600.

White balance; choose the “daylight” setting.

Recording mode Manual.

Exposure time/shutter speed typically 5-20 sec.

Use the widest aperture possible, usually f/2, f/2.8 or f/3.5, depending on your lens.

Focus the camera manually; switch off “Autofocus” if you have it.

If you have a delayed action timer, set it to 2 sec. to reduce camera shake.

“The magic hours,” the hours after dawn and before dusk, are the times of day when professional landscape photographers prefer to shoot the most.

This is when the sun is lower in the sky and there is less light, giving less contrast and more subtleness in colors.

Some of the places offer­­ing the best photo oppor­­ tuni­­ties might be far off the main roads, so make sure you are sufficiently equipped when it comes to boots and clothes.

And don’t forget to bring something to snack on to keep your energy levels up.

Experiment with long ex­­posures when shooting flowing water. This creates a smoothing effect of the water. For long exposures, you will need a tripod and preferably a cable release.

When you arrive at your scene, take your time to properly “see” the place.

Move around, change direction, experiment with focal lengths.

Fashion shoots Usually the landscape photography workshops involve 8-10 people, the professional photographer leading the workshops, his assistant and the clients. But when shooting fashion, things become a bit more complex.

Last year, Ao assisted British photo­­­ graph­er, Natalie Dybisz, otherwise known as Miss Aniela, on her Fashion Shoot Experience workshop in Iceland.

Miss Aniela specializes in surreal fashion shoots and does workshops all over the world, where landscape and gorgeous dresses melt together in amazing images. “When shooting fashion, we usually have about 30 peo­­ple in the group; the photographer and his assistants, models, stylist, hair­­dresser, a person in charge of the expensive designer dresses, guides, plus the clients attending the workshop.

The clients get to photograph the models on exotic locations around Ice­­ land. Six months of preparation went into the pre-production of the Miss Aniela workshop. The dresses were de­­ signed and made in UK: “Natalie and her husband Matt and I traveled the country together to scout special locations that were ideal for each shoot. We carefully chose the right models and the on-location creative team such as hairstylist and make-up artist. The landscape in Iceland is a Mecca for those interested in landscape photography but also for those inter­­­est­­ ed in doing fashion.

“The Icelandic summer is breath­­tak­­ ing, the colors are amazing, not least in the highlands which are always a popular destination. One al­­most finds it a waste of time to sleep at all! During the months of June and July when the midnight sun is visible almost 24/7, we tend to shoot through the night as you get the absolute best light at nights.

Usually we use the night to photograph and spend the day­­time sleeping. At around 3-4 in the after­­noon, we take off to a new location, eat and start shoot­ing late evening. Hav­ing said that, this entirely depends on the client’s wishes. The winters in Iceland also offer fantastic photo oppor­tuni­­ties.”

The northern lights Visiting Iceland with the purpose of see­­ing and photographing the northern lights has become extremely popular and Ao offers special tours where he teaches his clients to capture their magic on camera. He also teaches his clients how to shoot glaciers, often leading them into isolated ice caves and lagoons filled with icebergs. If Ao doesn’t go with the group himself, he arranges for another professional photographer to join them. Each photo­­ grapher is fully qualified to teach the

clients about different cameras and the optimum way of capturing winter’s phenomenal northern lights. “For our northern lights tours we usually go to specially selected locations around Reykjavík where there are many beauti­­ ful locations, perfect for shooting the aurora at night. The northern lights are notoriously elusive and you have to have a knack for finding the perfect spot to shoot them. And while finding them might be fairly easy, to shoot them perfectly you need a bit more know-how.

We are very selective in the locations we choose for the northern lights tours and they usually involve places where we have our privacy and can take our time to shoot.”

Great places to photograph, in and around Reykjavík: The Harpa Concert Hall is very photogenic, both for color and b/w photography.

Sólfarið, a steel sculpture by artist Jón Gunnar Árnason, along the waterfront and walking distance from Harpa.

Perlan Hallgrímskirkja Church Ásmundarsafn Museum The harbor The city center Grjótaþorp (in the city center) Grótta and its lighthouse, especially in May and August, often offers an ideal spot for watching (and photographing) a beautiful sunset.

Tjörnin, day or night.

Hljómskálagarðurinn Heiðmörk, for landscape details.

Reykjanes, one of Ao’s favorite locations. A day traveling and photographing Reykjanes should give you an abundance of photo opportunities. At Reykjanes, you’ll find geysers, black beaches, yellow beaches, rugged sea, lava, lighthouses, moss, fishing villages and lively birdlife. Álftanes; one of the best places in the world for birdlife photography Tips and tricks for shooting the northern lights Check the northern lights for­e­ cast on en.vedur.is/weather/for­e­ casts/aurora/ before you set off.

When shooting the northern lights, a tripod and a cable release are a must.

If possible, set the camera on timer, 10 sec. of the northern lights is plenty.

Don’t use filters.

The wider the lens, the better the results. A 14 mm lens would be ideal.

For those interested in knowing more about Ao’s photography tours and the workshops, we recommend a look at Ao’s web­­sites, aothor. com, photo­­graphy­­guide.is and arcticadvanced.com.

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Issue one

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Joining the Icelandic circus

Circus photography The first thing people think about when they hear the word Iceland is probably not circus culture but for aspiring photography student Johanna-Maria Fritz it was her reason for getting on that plane.

Photos: Johanna-Maria Fritz

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ohanna is 20 years old and lives in Berlin. She started learning photography at Neue Schule für Fotografie when she was 17 and later went to Ostkreuz. She is now on her final year and working on her final project. “After my high school degree I started working as an assistant to different photographers.

I soon realized that my love lies with still images,” says Johanna. She picked “The Circus” as her final project and concentrated on a special circus group, namely Sirkus Islands (Iceland’s Circus) a young circus group founded in 2007.

The lost magic of the circus world We asked Johanna why she hadn’t pick­­­­­­ed a project closer to home. “I heard about Sirkus Islands from a friend from

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Ice­­­­land and I just called them and told them about my project. They invited me to join them and so this great journey began,” Johanna begins. “I had already work­­ed with a family circus in Germany and was looking for new challenges.

With this photographic collection I am trying to show the different types of circus­­­es out there. Sirkus Islands is definitely one of a kind. If you compare it to the established circuses like ‘Zirk­­us Krone,’ you see that it is run in a very unorthodox and refreshing way. Each of the artists has chosen to live in a different way than the norm dic­­­­­­­tates. For me this aspect is especi­­ ally interesting. With my images I try to unravel the desire of these young peo­­ple breaking away from the ordinary lifestyle. Also I am searching for the lost magic of the circus world. With tender

and ethereal portraits and observations which often collide with the circus world, framed by fantastic landscapes in Iceland, I want to show the special features of this circus.”

Joining the circus Johanna spent her last summer trav­­­ eling around Iceland with Sirkus Islands and really got to know the group. “Each individual in the circus has their own unique story about how they came to join. For some it was “a dream come true,” for others, becoming an artist was their only way to find a place and purpose in this world. Nevertheless, they are all one big family now; a family with one big goal: putting on a great show—which they achieve with every single performance,” says Johanna.

“Luckily my first days with them were

the first days on tour for that season.

We traveled to places like Reykjavik, Isafjordur and Keflavik. To me it was very important to become part of the daily circus life, because that’s where I find my pictures. For example, I accompanied Unnur, one of the hula hoop dancers for training. For two straight hours we stood in the vicinity of the tent on the lawn, behind us a huge hole in the mountain in Isafjordur.

There was something magical about that moment. She was so focused and fixed on the rings—almost like she was meditating,” says Johanna, adamant that Sirkus Islands is unlike any other.

“The most astonishing thing about Sirk­us Islands that it’s such a young circus, free of conventions, expectations and traditions. This provides the perfect

At the end of 2013, after the very successful Volcano Circus Festival in Reykjavik it became clear that Sirkus Islands needed their own circus tent. They appealed to the Icelandic nation to help raise money for the tent and managed to collect the largest sum ever collected through the Karolina Fund. The tent was bought and Sirkus Islands toured around Iceland in 2014. “The tent has the shape of the volcano Jökla and every girl carrying that name gets free admittance for life. That’s something I’ve never seen anywhere else,” says Johanna.

ground for innovative and alternative performances,” Johanna explains.

Photographing in Iceland Johanna photographs with a color film using a medium format analog camera and works only with natural light so the long summer days in Iceland came in handy. “In the summer, Iceland’s weather and light conditions are per­­fect: long days, short nights and amazing light.

I like the cold light on this island very much. And time, I feel, runs more slowly in Iceland than in other places. The silence also helped me to stay focused

while I was working,” Johanna says.

“What I liked best about photograp­ h­ing in Iceland was the fact that the Ice­­landic people I met and photo­grap­h­ed were very open, putting a lot of effort into helping me with my project.

They supported me and got me into contact with interesting people. It’s easier to photo­­graph people in Iceland than Germ­­any for example, where people tend to be very suspicious and careful what they show in front of a camera. In Ice­land, people are welcoming and laid back.”

For more information about Johanna-Maria Fritz and her photographing go to www.johannamariafritz.com Find out more about Sirkus Islands at www.sirkusislands.is

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#Iceland #wowair

Living behind the lens

Kenneth Nguyen is a young freelance photographer and videographer based in Copenhagen. He’s been working with us at WOW air, taking magnificent photos in Iceland for us to share, and we asked him to write about his latest visit to Iceland last fall.

Text and photos: Kenneth Nguyen

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or the past year, when it comes to work­ing on my career in photo­­­ graphy, travel­ing has been my first wish. And travel­ing is what I’ve gotten. Without a doubt Iceland is one of my most favorite places to visit.

While we were in Iceland we traveled through most of the west, south and east.

The route from Reykjavik along the south coast to Seljalandsfoss Waterfall will take you by many beautiful sights but, in truth, there are extraordinary sights all around Iceland.

Kenneth Nguyen has a very popular photo blog at www.kenn­ ethnuigen.blogspot.com. Make sure to also follow Kenneth on Instagram, @kennethnguyen for more breathtaking photos.

More vacation than work This fall I went on my third trip to Iceland.

On my first trip I went alone, wanting to get away from home, experience new ad­­­ ventures, find myself, find inspiration for my work and at the same time gain some peace of mind. Ever since that first trip I’ve been in love with Iceland and thanks to WOW air, I’ve been able to visit this island two more times to work on their Instagram campaign and provide them with photos of this beautiful country, a job that seemed more like a vacation than work.

On my last trip I brought my good friend Matias Molina, who did most of the driving.

Incidentally, the best way to see and photo­­­graph Iceland is by renting a jeep and go­­­ing by yourself. The guys from www.red. is hooked us up with a nice 4x4 jeep with GPS and everything, making the whole trip very comfortable and easy. If you’re not in a hurry, like we were, and only have certain things that you want to see you should try taking a tour with Iceland Excursions; they‘ll take you to all the spots you want to see (www.icelandexcursions.is).

While we were in Iceland we traveled through most of the west, south and east.

The route from Reykjavik along the south coast to Seljalandsfoss Waterfall will take you by many beautiful sights but, in truth, there are extraordiary sights all around Iceland. From the moment we stepped out and started driving we were stunned, and that lasted until the moment the sun set; then we came back home. It was as if the WOW moments would never end.

Some tips if you are planning on going on a photo trip to Iceland If you are dreaming of seeing the northern lights, then Iceland is the perfect place to go, but the aurora is clearest during winter season and you have to be away from the city lights for the best show. If you want to photograph the northern lights, remember to learn the art of long exposure photography and use a tripod for your camera.

If you’re renting a car, make sure that it’s equipped with a GPS system. Because many of the spots aren’t updated to the GPS, you’ll also need a map to pin point some of the locations into it.

Drive off early in the morning, because there is a lot to see and the distances between destinations can be quite long.

Matias and I stopped a lot along the way because so much of the scenery was so amazing.

Don‘t forget to bring some waterproof bags for your camera, otherwise you can be sure that your equipment will get wet when you visit the waterfalls!

How to prep your camera for shooting in Iceland?

Well, the weather changes every mile or so, so the settings you set at your last stop might not work at your next location. If you have plenty of time then finding the right settings won’t be a problem. My best advice is to just shoot and get a feeling for the light and weather, and as you go along you’ll figure it out.

Enjoy your stay!

The picturesque Reynisfjara Beach.

From the moment we stepped out and started driving we were stunned, and that lasted until the moment the sun set; then we came back home. It was as if the WOW moments would never end.

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The abandoned, but still popular, Seljavallalaug swimming pool.

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Destination wedding

Iceland: The perfect backdrop A perfect wedding means perfect wedding photos and what better place to get your own unique backdrop and lighting than Iceland?

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eddings and honeymoons in Iceland are getting increas­­ ingly popular and not least because of the amazing photo­­graphic memories they create. To be sure to get those perfect photos for your wedding album it’s best to contact a professional photographer who also knows the lay of the land, literally. We met with professional photographer Krist­­inn Magnússon who, together with Eyjólfur M. Thoroddsen, runs icelandicphotography.com, a wedding and event photography service, and asked him about wedding photography in Iceland.

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Do something different Kristinn and Eyjólfur are both gradu­­­ates of the Art Institute of Fort Lauderdale, which was where their passion for wedding photo­­­ graphy began. “Working with some of the biggest names in wedd­­ ing photography in South Florida gave us experience plus insight in photo­­graphing weddings that has proven to be a valuable asset in our business. Shooting for such clients as Miami Herald, Sun Senti­­nel, and every major fashion and lifestyle magazine here in Iceland has helped in forming our photo journalistic and fashionable style to photography.

Our main goal is to provide a per­­sonal service and create a beauti­­­­­ful story from one of the most im­­port­­­ant days in anyone’s life,” says Kristinn who has been doing wedding photography in Ice­­land since 2006.

“The requests we get on photo­­­ grap­hing weddings or engagement sessions from abroad are always growing in num­­ber. It seems that

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Kristinn Magnússon, photographer.

Tips from the pro: How to get that perfect wedding photograph?

“Location, location, location! Find a beautiful background and find out the best time of day to take photos there in regard to the light. And have fun with it!”

H V Í TA H Ú S I Ð / S Í A – 1 4 – 2 5 8 0

WE PROMISED TO KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK BEST DUTY FREE SHOPPING SERVICE PROVIDER IN EUROPE 2013 2014

Worth the experience Issue one

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more and more couples want to do some­­thing different for their wedd­­­­ing and having it in Iceland is def­­init­ely different,” he adds.

Prepare for anything In Kristinn’s opinion the main attrac­­­­tion of an Icelandic honey­­­ moon or nuptials is the pure nature and the amazing landscapes. “A lot of people also come here in the hope of seeing the northern lights.

The time of year seems to be very important though and the main season is, of course, the summer when the northern lights can‘t be seen. My favorite time of the year to photograph is actually the autumn, when you get the autumn colors, the stars and northern lights,” Kristinn says. According to Kristinn many coupl­­es are surprised by how long the dis­­tanc­­es in Iceland actually are and that traveling from A to B often means much more than a short drive, even though the island looks so small on a map.

“Also peo­­ple sometimes forget to

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“The time of year seems to be very important though and the main season is, of course, the summer when the northern lights can‘t be seen. My favorite time of the year to photograph is actually the autumn, when you get the autumn colors, the stars and northern lights.”

factor in Iceland’s weather, it’s ever chang­ing nature and how cold it can get. We recommend pack­ing clothes for all possible conditions,” Kristinn explains.

A wedding “ring” around Iceland Every corner of Iceland has something unique to offer when it comes to the landscape but Kristinn is not afraid to pick his favorite. “My favorite place for a wedding photo shoot is the south coast. It has so much to offer and the ever changing landscape gives you such a great variety of backgrounds.”

From small photo shoots to big ones Kristinn has done it all and we asked him about his most memorable experience when it comes to wedding photography. “I was photographing a couple that came here from China. I spent four days with them and we drove around Iceland’s Ring Road. We had a lot of locations where we planned to stop and take photos but we also made some unscheduled stops when we came across a location that we liked or if the light was just too great to miss. Their biggest wish for the whole trip was to see the northern lights and on the first night they did; it made for some beautiful images. They also wanted to go up on a glacier, so we rented a helicopter and landed on Langjökull for a photo shoot.” Sounds like a dream honeymoon to us.

Want those dreamy wedding photos for your wedding, check out www.icelandicphotography.com for more information.

Also check out Kristinn‘s awesome photogallery for more samples of his photos, www.kmphoto.is.

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Tel. +354 540 1313 | iceland@grayline.is | grayline.is

Issue one

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Promotion

The Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20 a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: info@lebowskibar.is www.lebowskibar.is

Lebowski Bar

The Reykjavik venue that rocks!

From the entrepreneurs that brought you Café Oliver and Vega­mot, comes Lebowski Bar. You can take a quick guess where the name and inspiration comes from and even if you didn’t like the infamous 1998 movie we are cert­ain you will love this bar.

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ust walking into this retro American bar puts a smile on your face and the mood is very 1960’s. You can hang out at the old fashioned porch and imagine you are in a real action movie. They don’t make bars like that anymore … oh wait they do, this one! Four big screens adorn the walls, so it’s also a great place to hang out when there are big events and sporting high­lights to be seen. And there’s also an “outside” area deco­­rated in a zappy Miami­-sunshine yellow that will cheer even the dullest of days.

Dine and jive Lebowski Bar really captures the diner style with cosy booths and a fabulous jukebox containing over 1,600 songs guaranteed to get those hips

swaying. If that’s not enough there’s a DJ on every night of the week so you won’t feel the pressure of select­ing all the music by yourself. The menus are the biggest in Iceland … no literally! Their phy­­sical dimensions are huge! Doesn’t everyone say that size really does matter?

Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarn­aise sauce option and succulent beef ten­ der­loin. If that’s not enough, choose from one of the 12 kinds of milkshakes to go with it.

to a new level, offering an astounding 18 varieties of White Russian, along with an extensive bar list.

Bowling at the bar

“Careful man, there’s a beverage here!”

The real icing on the Le­bowski cake, however, is the bar’s gen­u­­ine bowling lane – it’s a classic. How many bars have a bowling lane? In Iceland, not many, unless you count the bars at actual bowling alleys that certainly don’t have the cool vibe of Le­ bowski Bar. DJs and a bass player add to the music mix at weekends and there’s room to dance. Check it out dudes, you’re guaranteed a good time.

Jeffrey ‘the Dude’ Lebowski, the protagonist of the Coen brot­­her’s comedy, is renowned for his penchant for ‘White Russ­ians’ – vodka based cock­­ tails featuring coffee liqueurs and cream or milk.

The Lebowski Bar has taken this now-iconic drink

“Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarn­aise sauce option and succulent beef ten­der­loin.”

Lebowski Bar is my favorite place to hang out at. I love grabbing a good beer, a burger & topping it with a delicious milkshake.

Lebowski Bar plays oldies music which mak­­es the vibe like none other in Reykjavik.

They also have happy hour from 4-7pm and who doesn’t love that!

Bottom line, Lebowski Bar is a great main­stream bar where you can meet fellow travel­ers and have a drink with locals. Practice the word ‘SKÁL’ (Cheers) ~ Inga,@TinyIceland (www.tinyiceland.com)

FIND IT ON FACEBOOK and Twitter Twitter: @LebowskiBar - Instagram: #LebowskiBar - Open 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat

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Promotion

Lavabarinn Lækjargata 6 a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 845 88 68 email: kolla@hresso.is

Lavabarinn

At the center of the scene Lavabarinn represents what Reykjavik is famous for … nightlife! Admit it, you’re not here to collect stamps. You’re here to travel, take photos and brag about it all while sitting at a fantastic lounge drinking delicious cocktails. That’s exactly what the Lavabarinn is all about and the architecture and design is beautiful.

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avabarinn focuses on high quality cock­­­ tails, mixed by highly skilled bar­­­tenders.

The age limit is 25 so leave the kids with the babysitter and dress up. This is no place for sneakers and hoodies.

If you require VIP services, then this is your place. Lavabarinn has a secret room with a secret door that leads up to the top floor; very 007.

The VIP service doesn’t stop there as you’ll have your own private drink elevator, private bathroom and security to hold off all your fans.

After drinking magical cocktails that taste like paradise, why not move down to the lower floor and shake it to some high class music by hot DJ’s from all over the world. It doesn’t hurt that Lavabarinn also has a Funktion-One sound system, the most respected sound system in the world.

Downstairs also has a large make-up room for everyone that chooses to freshen up while in there and seats to cool down after a great dance session.

There’s even an excluded outdoor smoking area for those who are absolutely smokin’ and they can

bring their drinks along for the break. You won’t be disappointed by either the cocktails or the music at Lava­­­barinn. You might want to get in early before the line starts and secure your spot. If it’s nightlife you seek, it’s nightlife you’ll find at Lavabarinn.

“After drinking magical cocktails that taste like paradise, why not move down to the lower floor and shake it to some high class music by hot DJ’s from all over the world.”

Lavabarinn Open: Thursdays from 5pm-1am—Fridays and Saturdays from 5pm-4:30 am. Happy hour Thursdays-Saturdays from 5-10pm. That’s perfect.

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Promotion

The English Pub Austurstræti 12 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 0400 Mobile: +354 697 9003 www.enskibarinn.is

Save water, drink beer!

For years, Iceland has enjoyed a diverse selection of restaurants and often sophisticated bars. However, one tiny grumble occasionally surfaced from the country’s Anglophiles – simply that there was no proper “pub”.

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nd so the English Pub was born.

From modest beginnings it has built a hearty reputation, seeking out, with the advice and guidance of its de­­­di­­­cat­­ed cust­omers, the finest ale available to mankind. Today it offers its enthusiastic cli­­­entele the chance to sample 50 beers from around the world, as well as a stagg­­­er­­ ing 15 Icelandic brands.

Whisky galore Not content to rest on its laurels, the English Pub has ventured north of its virtual border and also offers the finest selection of whiskies anywhere in the country. The choice of some 60 malts include many of Scotland’s finest, ensuring that

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numerous Ice­­landers and worldly travelers make the pil­­­grim­­age to the pub’s humble door. Located at the very heart of down­­town Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

at­­mos­­­­phere and for anyone feeling lucky, there is the Wheel of Fortune. Regulars like nothing more than to spin the wheel and chance a “Sorry” or pre­­­fer­­ably win what used to be call­­ed a Yard of Ale. These days, it’s ine­vitably known as a meter of beer, but the winners don’t seem to min

A sporting chance Live sporting coverage is amply catered for, with a choice of three big screens and TVs. In­­side the pub there is room for up to 150 people, and an out­­­door terrace can accommodate plenty more on those balmy Ice­­landic evenings! Whether it is foot­­ball (Premier and Champions League), rugby or golf, there are always special offers when live events are being broadcast. Live music every night adds to the

“Located at the very heart of down­­town Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photo­­­ graphs – like an album of the city’s hist­­ory just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.”

Promotion

Vegamót Vegamótastíg 4 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 3040 email: vegamot@vegamot .is www.vegamot .is

Very nice Vegamót

The all-in-one restaurant This elegant but casual two floor restaurant is located in the heart of Reykja­vík on Vega­­mótastígur, close to Lauga­­­­vegur.

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he restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonder­ful quality of being an all-in-one, rest­aurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave!

Here the decor is rich on the Medi­­­terr­­ anean side and yet elegant with a jazzy ambiance.

In the summertime tables are moved outside to the shelt­er­ed terrace, probably one of the hottest

places in Iceland during those short summer months. This place is famous for their ‘fresh fish of the day’, served all day from lunch hours. It has very rea­­sonable prices for quality, portions and presenta­ tion and guests can choose from a wide variety of decadent dess­erts – if they make it that far.

Try their excellent selection of good beers. Every day there is a special offer on bottled beers worth a taste.

“The restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonder­ful quality of being an all-in-one, rest­aurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave!”

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Promotion

Hressingarskálinn Austurstræti 20 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 561 2240 facebook.com/hressingarskalinn

Coffee house, restaurant & night club Hressingarskálinn is a warm place with plenty of seating and a great loca­­tion in down­ town Reykjavik. It’s one of the few places that open at 9 AM to serve breakfast for hungry travelers or locals. Hressingarskálinn is a big part of Reykja­vík’s history; the house was built in 1802 and the restaurant was established in 1932. The house has hosted Hress­ingarskálinn since 1932.

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itting down for a coffee has a magnetic effect on Iceland’s most talented art­­­ ists and writers. Smokers can have a seat on a heated patio with service all day. Over the summer, this place really comes alive. The yard is completely sheltered from the wind, allowing you to enjoy food and beverages in the bright sunlight. Thursday to Sunday is usually packed with people from all over

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the world. It’s a great place to meet strangers for some interesting story sharing. Live bands play on Fridays and Sat­urdays, guaranteeing a crowd before all the popular DJ’s hit the floor with party tunes from 01:00-04:30 AM. The menu consists of great selections and offers everything from breakfast to a fantastic dinner. Hressingarskálinn offers Icelandic food for curious visitors. You can always try the traditional Icelandic meat soup. If

not, there’s lamb or the fish stew – You won’t be disappointed. Hress­­­ingar­­­skálinn is stylish and old at the same time, a history well preserved.

Check out Hress­­­ingar­skálinn for great prices and awesome fun!

“The menu consists of great sel­­ect­­ions and offers every­thing from breakfast to a fantastic dinner.”

Promotion

Sakebarinn Laugavegur 2 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 777 3311 www.facebook.com/Sakebarinn

The one and only choice for Sushi & Sticks …so you can check it off your bucket list Located in a loft on Laugavegur, the main shopping street, in one of Iceland’s old­est build­ ings (1886) is a great new restaurant with a great view and an amazing at­mosphere called Sakebarinn. In its beautiful location, surrounded by windows that look down on Austurstræti, (an extension of Laugavegur leading to the Old Town) and up Skólavörðustígur (known for its cafés, local boutiques and art shops with native works), Sakebarinn lies in the very heart of downtown Reykjavík. In the winter you can see the Northern Lights from the balcony and in the summer, the amazing summer sunsets over the harbor.

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he owners of Sakebarinn have a keen interest for the arts and crafts and a wealth of creative assets to play with.

Although Sake­­barinn has a strong foundation in pure Japanese cuisine the current style of the restaurant proves that the owners are not afraid to break some of the rules. To them sushi is meant to be an art form.

Along with its handcrafted sushi, Sakebarinn also offers a sel­­ection of sticks and other meat cours­­es, featuring whale and horse and anything that’s fresh and interesting that day. Why live on an island in the middle of the Atlantic if you’re not going take advantage of the natural fauna? Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and with a little some­­thing for

everyone. There’s love on every plate – You will feel it with each taste.

It’s no accident that the place is named Sake­­bar­­ inn. It does feature the country’s largest sel­­ection of sake and a shot before a meal can truly enhance the feel of real Japanese dining. It comes in a sur­­prising range of flavors too, everything from really girly fruit sake to the fire spewing alcohol con­­tent of some of the more butch types; potato sake, warm and cold sake and Japanese plum wine. And then of course are the bottles that didn’t make it on to the menu because no one could read the labels and therefore no one knows what they are. Mystery sake! Sakebarinn is a place born to show­­case the talents the staff have collected over the years work­­ing at their first Sushi restau­­rant call­­ed Sushibarinn, which is located on the first

floor in the same house. A year and a wild ride later, this sushi family has in­­corporated a bunch of new and talented people with some great new recipes and skills they didn’t know they had and didn’t even know existed. The walls are hand painted by them, the wine selected by them, the menu is designed by them and the place is loved by them. They also love to present food so their clients become part of their love for sushi.

The look on your face is what they are aiming for, the look of enjoyment.

“Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and a little some­­thing for everyone.”

Sakebarinn Opening hours: Mon-Sun 5:00 PM – 00:00 Issue one

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Promotion

Tíu dropar Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes Laugavegur 27 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 9380

Tíu dropar / Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes Tíu dropar (Ten Drops) is a café located in the cellar of Lauga­veg­ur 27. This is one of the oldest cafés in Iceland and for the last 30 years to this very day they serve freshly baked pancakes and waffles á la the grandmothers of Iceland, with lots of whipped cream and Icelandic jam.

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en Drops is also known for its home­­ made cakes, baked from scratch ac­­cord­ing to old re­­­cip­­­es, and of course, their hot cocoa, known by many of their guests as ‘The Only Real Hot Cocoa on Earth’. If you’re not in the mood for old fashioned Icelandic good­ies you can choose from an assortment of light dishes, tea, wines and beer.

We recommend the French meat soup, a pop­­ular dish and another old favorite.

Where did the café go?

Don’t be surprised if you can’t find the café after 18:00. Some­­thing happens around that time that trans­­­­forms this little cellar into a French wine room known as Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes or the Castle of the Ten Drops. This is a lovely place to sit and enjoy good win­­es along with cheese, ham or

other light dishes for as little as 500 ISK a plate, and don’t worry, the coffee, co­coa and pancakes are still there! Lovely French music sets the mood and the ambiance is perfect for a deep conversation.

Guests want­­­ing to break out in song can have their turn after 22:00 on the weekends, as long as they can find some­­one to play the antique piano given to the café’s owner, David Bensow, by a regular.

Choose your wine Guests can have their say on the wine list of Le Cha­te­aux des Dix Gouttes and David will make special orders to fulfill their wish­es. In fact, he wel­­comes any sug­gestions making the wine list one of the more, well-endowed in Reykjavík. He’s especially interested in serving good Port to his clientele.

Check out the ten drops twitt­er feed and find both café and wine room on Facebook.

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Intimate climate The little wine room and café seat only 40 guests and the mood is set in the early evening. It’s safe to say this is just the kind of place that was missing from the brimm­­­ing Icelandic bar and café scene - a perfect sett­ing for a small group of friends to reminisce over the good old days or for a first date.

Be sure to taste David’s “wine of the week” or let his fair beer prices amaze you.

“Don’t be surprised if you can’t find the café after 18:00. Some­­thing happens around that time that trans­­forms this little cellar into a French wine room known as Le Chateaux Des dix Gouttes or the Castle of the Ten Drops.”

Promotion

Kol Restaurant Skólavörðustígur 40 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 7474 www. kolrestaurant .is

Cocktails and feel good food at Kol Restaurant Be prepared for a memorable night out at Kol Restaurant.

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ituated at Skólavörðustígur 40 in Reykja­­­­­­vík, Kol Restaurant’s design con­­­­­cept is a mixture of warm modern Icelandic feel with international touc­­ h­­es and the furniture of designer Tom Dixon playing the central role. The rest­­­­­­­­aur­­ant is on two floors with an open kitchen and a mighty bar. Both floors are divided into spac­­ es with cozy leather couches and a variety of diff­­­er­­ ent table settings. Kol Restaurant centers on the bar where the country’s best cocktail bar­­tenders

serve craft cocktails from the best ingredients available and offer an ambitious cocktail list to begin and complete the dining experience.

The selection is feel good comfort food with a twist on classic cuisine. The menu offers a variety of finger food, salads, fish, steaks and dess­­ erts. The head chefs, Einar Hjaltason and Kári Þor­­­­­steinsson, have over 20 years of ex­­­perience at Reykjavik’s best restaurants as well as work ex­­­perience in several known restaurants in London, for example Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons, Dabbous,

Noma, 28/50 and Texture. Don’t miss out on this brand new gem on the Reykjavik restaurant scene.

This is a great place to begin a fun evening.

“Kol Restaurant cent­­ers on the bar where the coun­try’s best cock­­tail bar­­tend­­ers serve craft cocktails from the best in­­ gredi­ents available and offer an ambi­­ tious cocktail list to begin and com­­plete the dining exper­­ience.”

Kol Restaurant Open: Monday-Friday 11:30-23:00 / Saturday-Sunday 17:30-23:00 Issue one

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Promotion

Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is

When in Iceland, go Danish!

You know that Iceland used to be a Danish colony, right? Even though inde­­pend­ence from the Danish Crown was necessary, Icelanders still celebrate every­thing Danish, so don’t expect to meet a big Danish crowd at The Danish Pub, they are all Icelanders just act­ing like they’re Danish. Really!

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his bar has made a name for itself in the Reykjavik social scene and is known locally as Den Danske Kro (we all just want a reason to speak Danish in public). This popular downtown venue serves a remarkable selection of beers in­cluding the famous Danish white beers, the darker more malt brews and of course the tra­­ditional and almost obligatory Tuborg and Carls­­ berg. If you come during the Christmas sea­­son you can taste some of the renowned Christ­­­mas brews, very popular in demand. Just ask for Julebryg (“you-le-bree”).

within the pub – an off-the­-wall design in its most literal sense!

Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some darts, try the custom­ary Gammel Dansk bitt­ers or catch some live football. Watch the world go by on the outside terrace and have a taste of the tra­­ ditional smørre­brød (fantastic open sand­­­wiches).

You can pre-order these delicious snacks for larger groups.

Does this sound too tranquil?

Do as the Danes do

The Danish Pub is nothing if not a place to party.

The at­­mos­­phere is easy going and you can choose from a variety of shots and even cocktails if you’re not in the mood for a beer (Does that ever happen?).

The owners of the Danish Pub strive to create the true Danish atmos­phere known among the Danes (and Danish-prone Ice­­landers) as “hyggeligt”. If you truly are Danish this can be your “home away from home”. And in this spirit, check out the “house”

Reminder: If you thought you were in for a quiet night guess again, The Danish Pub features live music every night with special appearances and unad­­vertised happenings on Wednesdays, Fridays

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and Saturdays. Put your musical knowledge to the test at the Wednesday night pop-quiz; the prizes will surprise you.

Best local pub in Reykjavík Wherever you‘re from you’ll want to have a great time while vis­iting Reykjavík. The people of Reykja­ vík do anyway, so they flock to The Danish Pub for a beer “en øl” dur­­ing the Happy Hour every day from 16-19. The place is crowded and you’re guaran­­teed to meet some fun, “lee glaath” people.

“Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some darts, try the custom­ary Gammel Dansk bitt­ers or catch some live football. Watch the world go by on the outside terrace and have a taste of the traditional smørre­brød (fantastic open sandwiches).”

Promotion

Kaldi Bar Laugavegur 20 b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.facebook.com/KaldiBarCafe

A breath of fresh air

Cool as Kaldi Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars.

An oasis in central Reykjavík.

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t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos­­­phere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, there’s a great outside seating area in a cozy backyard. Known for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottl­es, Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew.

Drop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local.

“Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos­­­phere in a rustic setting.”

Opening Hours Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 noon - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 noon - very late / Price list Beer on draft 0.5 – 1,100 IKR Glass of vine – 1,200 IKR / Happy hour 16:00-19:00 / Beer on draft 0.5 – 650 IKR / Glass of vine – 650 IKR Issue one

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Promotion

Kopar Restaurant Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant .is / info@koparrestaurant .is

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor Kopar Restaurant is situated by Reykjavik‘s romantic harbor, in one of the old green fisherman‘s huts.

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he fishing industry still thrives in Reykja­­­ vik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the morning, fishermen go out to sea and return later with their catch of the day.

As you stand on the pier you can feel the history of Reykjavik and watch the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and young kids with their rods trying their luck off the pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere of the old harbor is all part of the experience when

you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans.

They are especially proud of their crab soup, made with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the fruit of the ocean.

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She pre­­­ pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, in­­tent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere, delicious food and the best view in town. When visiting Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is a must.

“Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She prepares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.”

Opening hours - Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 - Fridays from 11:30-23:30 - Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 - Sundays from 18:00-22:30 48

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Amazing 6 course menu

A unique Icelandic Feast Smoked puffin with blueberries, croutons, goat cheese, beet root “Torched“ arctic charr with parsnip purée, fennel, dill mayo Lobster cigar with chorizo, dates, chili jam Reindeer slider with blue cheese, portobello, steamed bun Lamb “lollipop“ with coriander, pickled red cabbage, fennel, butternut squash purée, chimichurri

And to end on a high note ....

Icelandic “Skyr“ panna cotta with raspberry sorbet, white chocolate crumble, passion foam, dulche de leche

6.990 kr.

Our kitchen is open 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu.

17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.

Sushi Samba Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík Tel 568 6600 • sushisamba.is

taste the best of iceland... ... in one amazing meal icelandic gourmet feast Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic spirit Brennívín Followed by seven delicious tapas

late night dining Our kitchen is open until 23:30 on weekdays and 01:00 on weekends

Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa Lobster tails baked in garlic Pan-fried line caught blue ling with lobster-sauce Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina Minke Whale with cranberry & malt-sauce White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion fruit coulis

6.990 kr.

RESTAURANT- BAR Vesturgötu 3B | 101 Reykjavík | Tel. 551 2344 | www.tapas.is Issue one

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Vellir The old house at Vellir farm in Skagafjordur was built somewhere between 1900 and 1914 and abandoned sometime in the 1970’s. The outer walls are made from either wood or turf. An old tractor has been parked by the front of the house, staying the collapse of the outer wall.

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Lonely farms

Abandoned beauty

There is something that draws us in when it comes to abandoned farms and houses, their tranquility, their eeriness or how nature seems to be taking them over.

Photos: Courtesy of the Abandoned Farms association

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Grundarhóll North of Grímsstaðir á Fjöllum is the old farmland of Grundarhóll. This house of wood was built in 1927. Abandoned in 1962, the house, now in squalor, and the adjoined barn are prominent features of the old farm.

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Stapadalur This house in Stapadalur Valley in Arnarfjordur was built in 1926. The farmstead is magnificent with cliffs all around.

The house was abandoned in 1955.

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e feel the desolation of a place and we wond­­er why the owners left, where they went and why no one’s taking care of that house today.

While many of us might speculate, a group called The Abandoned Farms Associ­ation, actually went and found out.

A real fixer-upper All around Iceland you can find numerous aban­doned farms and houses in various states of dis­repair. Many of them are well built and still in fairly good shape, but what they all have in common is a story to tell and that is why The Abandoned Farms Association started their research. The Association is a nonprofit organization with the objective to research and register the magnitude and cultural importance of all abandoned farms and other de­­sert­ed residences in the rural areas of Iceland. Other important objectives of doing the research are to contribute toward saving

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Abandoned buildings can have a great importance.

In some cases they are in themselves cultural relics and an important source of regional and population history.

and preserving these properties and to inspire others to do the same. Firms Gláma-Kím Architects, R3 Consulting and Stapi Consulting Geologists are behind The Abandoned Farms Association and with the help of the Icelandic Student Innovation Fund they were able to hire a group of university students each summer to help with this extensive research.

Not forgotten The research started in 2011 after one year of pre­­par­­­­ation, and now there is an extensive and valu­­­able base of knowledge available on the residence and life of Icelanders in the last centuries. The first research of abandoned farms was done in the south part of Ice­­land, covering 103 abandoned farms and houses and followed by the first publication, Volume 1. A year later the research took place in west and northeast Iceland, where 236 houses were cataloged, resulting in Volume 2 and 3. In 2013 the research covered the West Fjords and northwest Iceland, documenting 217 houses which resulted in Volume 4 and 5. The research ended in 2013 when the abandoned farms and houses in North and South Múlasýsla Counties, Árnessýsla County, Gull­­bringusýsla County, Kjósarsýsla County and in the Westman Islands were explored—some 189 buildings that make up Volume 6 and 7.

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Þórisdalur The dwelling house and barns at Þórisdalur in Lón are adjoined and form a complex. The houses were likely built in the 1920’s or 30’s and abandoned in 1968. Þórisdalur is a beautiful place and the road to Lónsöræfi, a great natural treasure, takes you through the farmland.

The beauty of loneliness On the whole the researchers documented 748 aban­­doned buildings but their definition of abandoned house or farm was very narrow as they did not explore buildings that have been utilized or repurposed, such as houses that are now used as summer homes.

Abandoned buildings can have a great importance. In some cases they are in themselves cultural relics and an important source of regional and population history. Their age, type or architectural features can be unique or historically relevant as can be their placement in the cultural landscape of their region. Abandoned farms and former homes can also be quite beautiful in their lone­­­lin­­ess, especially in the surrounding magnificent Icelandic nature, as the photos from The Abandoned Farms research prove.

Abandoned farms and former homes can also be quite beauti­ful in their lone­­­­li­n­­ess, especially in the sur­­ round­­­ing magnificent Icelandic nature, as the photos from The Abandoned Farms re­­ search prove.

Rif farm.

The volumes of Iceland’s abandoned farms were only published in very limited editions in Icelandic and are available at the project’s offices at Síðumúli 33. For more information visit www.eydibyli.is.

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The best health and body experience Iceland has to offer

A world where water, art and design play together in perfect harmony Laugar Sundlaugarvegur 30a 105 Reykjavik Tel. +354 553 0000 www.laugarspa.com

laugarspa.com

Opening hours

Mon - Fri 06:00 - 23:00 Saturday 08:00 - 21:00 Issue one 55 Sunday 08:00 - 19:30

Sun vs. moon

Solar eclipse in Iceland 2015

Would you like a chance to see the last grand solar eclipse over Europe until August 12, 2026? You can, if you head north around 20 March 2015. That’s a Friday by the way! Why not use this unique opportunity to visit Iceland while you‘re at it, and check out those northern lights on the way?

Photos: Christopher Ayers

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he solar eclipse on March 20, 2015 will be the largest one seen from Iceland in over 60 years. The moon will darken up to 99% of the sun, depending on your location during the eclipse. This magnificent event will be best seen from the East Fjords in Iceland and will begin around 8:40 AM, local time, peaking approximately an hour later.

March 20, 2015 happens to be the same date as the equinox. The moon will turn new only 14 hours after reaching the closest point to Earth in its orbit which means this is also a supermoon, having a larger than usual effect on Earth’s oceans. This new supermoon will swing in front of the sun, its

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shadow falling on certain parts of Earth, eclipsing the sun. Adding to this spectacle will be the planet Venus visible to the left of the sun when the eclipse reaches its peak.

Photographing a solar eclipse A solar eclipse is one of the most incredible sights you’ll ever see. Photographing it is relatively easy and makes for some dramatic and beautiful photos. If you plan to watch or photograph the solar eclipse remember to use proper eye protection and you will need a special solar filter on your cam­­era. A lens with a fairly long focal length is recommended to produce as large an image of the

sun as possible. Using a long focal length means you’ll also need a tripod for a stable image.

The easiest way to determine correct exposure is accomplished by running a calibration test on the uneclipsed sun as its surface brightness remains constant throughout the eclipse. The greatest challenge during a solar eclipse is obtaining photographs that capture the absolute peak of the eclipse. If it’s a total eclipse the exposure time needs to be lengthened or the aperture heightened.

A word to the wise: Make sure you don’t miss the eclipse trying to photograph it.

A solar eclipse is one of the most incredible sights you’ll ever see.

Photographing it is relatively easy and makes for some dramatic and beautiful photos.

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Frozen moments

He’s Icelandic, 22 years old and he’s like a wizard with his camera. An artist who makes adventures in colors or black and white. Ásgeir Pétursson loves the nature—whether in his native country or in Greenland where he lives—mountains, valleys, Greenlanders, eagles, fire, ice ... and of course the unspoiled Icelandic nature as well.

Text: Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: Ásgeir Pétursson

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OW! Looking at these photos you probably imagine someone with lots of training as a photographer. The fact is that Ásgeir is self-taught; he bought his camera and a 50 mm lens a year ago when he moved to Greenland and his goal is to study photography in the near future.

“It was my second day in Greenland and I knew I had to buy a camera,” says Ásgeir. The reason: the beauti­­ful and powerful nature. Ásgeir says that the

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nature in Greenland is like an adventure; a magnifi­­ cent adventure.

“I had to wait two weeks before I got the camera and used the time to study photography on the Internet. Then I began to take photos in Nuuk, where I now live, and in the fiords,” he says.

“The Greenland glacier is dominant and covers about 80% of the country; and wherever you are in Greenland, you’re never far from it.” Yes, the glac­­ier, the cold winter and the snow is something

Ásgeir has captured. It’s worth mentioning that the icebergs that are like works of art; with his camera, Ásgeir recreates these works of art, these frozen moments; brrrrrrrr.

Fire and ice Of course Ásgeir has also taken pictures while in Iceland, the country he describes as a great playground for photographers. “I’ve traveled a lot in Iceland through the years and often in the

Holuhraun I traveled with a helicopter and this time of course had the camera.”

Ásgeir Pétursson: “When I’m out with my camera I view nature with a different perspective.” highlands. Since returning to Iceland last autumn I’ve made several trips to some of my old favorite spots but this time with my camera. I love the tranquility and peace in the unspoiled nature. I prefer being alone while taking pictures; I walk with an empty mind, so to speak, and see beautiful things everywhere. Photography allows me to experience nature in a special way,” Ásgeir says.

“When I’m out with the camera I see nature from a different perspective. I look at it in more detail and I become very calm. I would say it’s a kind of meditation,” he explains.

Yes, Ásgeir has taken photos of the huge glacier in Greenland, icebergs that are melting. In Iceland he’s captured the latest eruption. “During the eruption of Eyjafjallajökull I drove my truck up there, over the glacier and to the eruption. I was lucky enough to be there to see the earth tear apart in front of me as a new crater opened a few hundred meters away. For the current eruption in

Thousands of pictures Like most photographers with a digital camera Ásgeir shoots a great number of photos. So how does he choose the right ones, for instance, to publish on his Facebook page? “I choose the pictur­­­es that seem to talk to me; whether peaceful, power­­­ful, threatening or sad. My favorite pictures are the ones that evoke a feeling or reaction,” says Ásgeir. Ásgeir plans to go to art school to study photography but in the meantime he is going to publish a book with some of his photographs from Greenland. “I think it will be a great opportunity for me to practice my skills and perhaps at the same time make a little money to help pay for school,” he says.

It’s clear that this young Icelander is only at the beginning of his photographing career and we hope to see more of his magnificent photos in the future.

Check out more of Ásgeir’s photos on his Facebook page: www.facebook.com/ ashapephotography

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Just a moment …

We love getting WOW moments from our guests.

Please keep them coming!

Have you ever gotten such an awesome photo that you think the world deserves to see it? We love it when you share, and those who share a WOW moment have a chance to win round-trip tickets with WOW air, which means another great chance for a WOW moment.

Send in your WOW moment through moments.wow.is or moments.wowiceland.co.uk and you could be one of those happy snappers.

Here are some WOW moments so you can check out the competition. Don’t forget – if you live at any of WOW air’s destinations you could send in a WOW moment from your hometown to win tickets to our hometown.

t ever! ve fligh Year’s E os Martinez w e N Best Marc Sent by

WOW a ir via the night flight to au Reykjav ik …

Sent by rora borealis!

Will San derson

Botnsúlur, near Þingvellir. Ski in mountaineering itions— awesome cond great perfect weather, snow! Örn Sent by Guðjón Björnsson

Berlin fr o angle. A m another rt Kurfrüst work at e Sent by ndamm.

Da Sveinbja ði Hrafn rnarson

Our little crazy cat splashing and laughing at a mall in Alicante.

Sent by Einar Ómarsson

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#

Let us tag along @ us to your travelgrams with @wowair and tag your awesome photos with #wowair or #wowmoment.

WOW Power to the people

We were d along th riving e decided road and to stop and see the Ic ponies! elandic They w ere so frien dly, so I took a selfie :) Sent by Sa Leviton brina

HISTORIC EXHIBITION

RESTAURANT • SHOP • ACTIVITIES

Try on the clothes and weapons of the Viking age. Great fun and a great photo opportunity.

AUGLÝSINGASTOFA E. BACKMAN

The Saga Museum brings the Viking age to life. There you’ll walk among some of Iceland’s most famous heroes and infamous villains portrayed in their defining moments; the Viking settlement in 874, Leif the Lucky’s discovery of America, the founding of the world’s first parliament and the epic clan feuds that marked the settlement. This is as close as you’ll ever get to meeting Vikings in the flesh.

The shop has a wide selection of traditional Viking handiwork, souvenirs and clothing.

Saga Museum • Grandagarður 2 • 101 Reykjavík • Tel.: (+354) 511 1517 • Open: Daily from 10 to 18 www.sagamuseum.is

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“I found cloud nine in Iceland” The edgy work of Nicklas Elmrin

Nicklas Elmrin, a Swedish photographer, came to Iceland to make a poetic photo book of the countryside’s barren beauty. Three weeks later he flew home with a backpack full of his encounters and a crush on the Icelandic people.

In 2015 it will all be published in a much-awaited book.

by Jonas Löfvendahl Photos: Nicklas Elmrin

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icklas has been traveling around the world for his profession for almost two decades. He’s worked throughout Europe, in China, the United States, and in some odd countries like Moldova and the breakaway region of Transnistria. But Iceland was something else. “I first visited Reykjavik a couple of years ago. I saw all the guided tours offered everywhere and couldn’t help wanting to do exactly the opposite. I wanted to visit Iceland off the tourist trail, without the big attractions. I wanted the real story,” says Nicklas.

He hooked up with a Swedish writer and took off. They rented a jeep and traveled the island, mostly the western and north part, for three weeks, never paying for a room to stay in. “People in Iceland are amazing. It’s the friendliest place I

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have ever visited. We slept on couches, in small houses and big houses, and so on. Everyone we met made us feel right at home,” says the photographer.

Dogs and bartenders The working duo met surfers, artists, horse owners, fisher­­­ men, tourists, dogs, priests, hotel owners, hitchhikers, musi­­ cians, skydivers, bartenders, and so on. As a photographer, Nicklas was in heaven. “I found cloud nine in Iceland! It’s a great place to be where the light and landscape constantly changes. Traveling around the vast countryside without trees, through desolate and colorful landscapes, past Icelandic horses and spouting geysers, you feel transported into a fairytale,” he says.

The thing Nicklas loved the most was the everyday ex­­ peri­­ence where one thing always led to another. “People in Iceland always seem very relaxed and easygoing. One advantage while driving around working is that everyone knows everyone; every single person we talked to had con­­ tacts and happily shared that information to help us out.”

Q: Do you have any favorite spots in Iceland?

“Djupavik with its isolation and that feeling of a former Icelandic Klondike, and the area around Skagafjörður with all the horses. There, on top of a mountain plateau, I saw the earth’s creation, how it looked long ago. I felt the powerful forces of nature and had to sit down for quite a while just tak­ ing it in. I’m a restless man so that’s quite unusual for me.”

Q: What was the best thing about Iceland?

“The clean air, the sound of silence, the great food from the cold sea, and the people! For our book we visited native Ice­­landers; gaining insight into their everyday life was a great experience.

Whether we were talking to famous Icelandic people as artist Helgi Thorgils Fridjonsson or musician Lay Low, or just the “man-on-the-street,” they were all just as approachable.”

Q: What can you tell us about your book?

“It’ll be out in 2015, both in Swedish and English, and it’s a kind of punk-rock tale of Iceland through the eyes of the dozen people we met and lived with for a short while. It’s a bit edgy, a bit poetic and a combination of my pictures and the words of the brilliant writer I work with. We made it docu­­mentary style, and I’m very passionate with this strange, modern, different type of travel report. I believe in the

Facts: Name: Nicklas Elmrin Age: 47 Lives: Kungsbacka, on the west coast of Sweden.

Family: Wife Anna and their two sons.

Years as a professional photographer: 16 Website: www.elmrin.com Favorite city among WOW air’s destinations: Barcelona. “I love Barcelona and especially the El Born quarter with its Gothic architecture, narrow streets and closeness to the sea. Biking along the beach on a late afternoon or taking a morning jog in Ciutadella Park is brilliant, and often I just end up sitting down at a local cafeteria reading a good book and feeling the city vibrate around me.

A truly inspiring place.”

connection between photo and words. Photojournalism as we once knew it is dead. We are planning a series of books together and no better place to begin than Iceland; that’s for sure.”

Old school intensity Nicklas Elmrin is already planning his next trip to Iceland, with the plan of exploring the eastern part of the island, and the Westman Islands. As has been demonstrated over and over again, the lure of Iceland is some­­thing profound for every visitor with a camera.

Elmrin met a lot of “photo nerds” on the island and gathered some tips for the hobby photographer. “If you hike a lot, bring a small pocket camera that you can easily access for the snapshot. If you’re traveling by car bring a steady tripod as well as a small one

that fits your pocket for beautiful landscape shots with slow shutter speeds. Try ND filters and polarizers, and give wire triggers a go. Rain cover is a good idea in Iceland [laughs] and a chamois cleaning cloth to dry the moisture away. Don’t forget nuts and energy bars as a reward when you get tired.”

Until he returns to Iceland Nicklas is working at the daily Swedish newspaper GöteborgsPosten plus giving seminars about the profession of photography; courses on how to work with sound and image. He takes a lot of sport shots, a great challenge to any photographer who wants to try something different. “I have covered three world championships, two European championships, the Olympics, and so on. I don’t love all sports but I love good sports pictures. There’s an old school intensity on a sport field, which can boil down to very special moments, says Nicklas Elmrin.

Check out www.elmrin.com for more information on the work of Nicklas Elmrin

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Postcard perfect

Ambience of winter

The winter months in Iceland often offer ethereal lighting and an incredible atmosphere, and we’re not just talking about the amazing northern lights. The sun, moon and clouds all cast mystical tones on the surroundings, sometimes with deep blue or even highly pink colors. Catching that breathtaking moment is priceless for travelers and Reykjavik offers plenty of places to experience this both in the downtown area, as well as on the outskirts of the capital. But you need to act quickly as the light comes and goes; so get your camera fully ready before booting up for a picturesque walk around Iceland’s capital.

Text and photos: Gunnlaugur Rögnvaldsson

Pigeons for peace In the downtown area you can find plenty of pigeons during the winter. They hide on roofs and fly in flocks to keep warm while searching for leftovers on the streets below; some are even fed by experts. This group keeps a close watch by the old harbor, where a pigeon keeper feeds them. With so many white ones, they are almost like a sign of peace, which is much needed in today’s world.

The first settler Ingólfur Arnarsson is considered the first settler in Iceland.

He was outlawed from Norway and came here with a group of people that settled in 874. This statue of him overlooks the harbor area from afar and is a venue for many gatherings, snow sled rides in winter and lots of concerts in summer. It is just off the main shopping streets Bankastræti and Laugavegur.

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WOW Power to the people

Pretty in pink There are numerous places to experience true nature in the capital, on all sides of the city. The area around Elliðaárdalur Valley is beautiful in winter and summer. These swans are bathed in the pinkish color that the sun casts from the Blue Mountains, Reykjavik’s main skiing area.

Old times The houses in Reykjavik are very colorful and many are different from anything you see elsewhere in the world. The houses at the Árbæjarsafn Museum show how people in Iceland lived in the past, exhibiting an extensive showcase of how things once were.

It wasn’t so long ago that people in Iceland lived in houses made of wood and turf. To make it through the cold winter months some houses were warmed with the body heat of sheep, cows and other livestock

Mystic blue Snow, rock, ice and the sea; very Icelandic: This is the view towards Mt. Esja, taken close to the Harpa Concert Hall, where you can begin a walk around the harbor area or go in the other direction to see the coastline and Viðey, where the Lennon/Ono Peace Tower beams into the dark night sky from 9 October to 8 December every year.

Mt. Esja is a popular hiking destination during the summer, just keep in mind that it’s not as close as it appears, you’ll have to drive there.

Moon shine Many modern buildings in the capital have glass windows, not least in the business district.

This glass tower in Kopavogur stands grand in the light of the winter moon, as the sun has just set on the horizon. This kind of light catches the eye of photographers who visit Iceland.

Catching that breathtaking moment is priceless for travelers and Reykjavik offers plenty of places to experience this both in the downtown area, as well as on the outskirts of the capital.

The right stuff When walking around Reykjavik during the winter, it’s smart to dress accordingly, and this tourist has the right stuff. Photographing in the winter light is magical, and it is ever changing, which also poses a challenge. The number one rule, before going on any adventure is to dress warm.

Issue one

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WOW crew

Flair in the air Photos: Sigurjón Ragnar

Our WOW crew looks great in the air and they do an excellent job at ca. 30,000 feet but sometimes we need them on the ground too. To start off the new year with some fun we got some of our crew together for a photo shoot, and you‘ll probably see them popping up here and there as the year progresses. Here are some of the “outtakes” from our shoot.

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WOW Power to the people

Osushi is a unique rest­ aurant in Iceland. The met­­hod of dining involves snatching small plates from a conveyor belt. Pricing is distinguished by the color and pattern of the plate – most range between 230 - 440 ISK. Everything off the con­vey­­ or belt is tasty and if you don’t really fancy sushi, you can instead choose for ex­­ample teriyaki chicken, noodle salad, tempura and desserts.

The vibe in Osushi is friendly and relaxed. The restaurant is located almost next door to Althingi (the parliament) which is in the heart of the city.

osushi.is

Pósthússtræti 13 / Borgartúni 29 / Reykjavíkurvegur 60 HF. Tel: 561 0562 / www.osushi.is Issue one

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WOW design

Meet the Family

by Gerður Harðardóttir

All members of “The Family” are available at these design boutiques: Epal, Hrím, Kraum, Hotel Natura, Hilton Hotel and Listasafn Íslands (the National Gallery of Iceland).

Check out more of Anna Thorunn’s designs at www.annathorunn.is.

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WOW Power to the people

C

hildren’s toys and a deep sense of nostalgia is what inspired product designer Anna Thorunn when designing “The Family,” a line of candleholders made of birch wood. “My ideas and design are based on emotion and affection that can be traced to past events, experience, memory or curiosity. My designs have to be practical and express my passion but at the same time deliver an emotion to their owners, hopefully joy and happiness.”

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Extreme driving

Experience the thrill

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WOW Power to the people

Many adventures await you in Iceland, one of them is traveling to the glaciers in style.

Text: Gunnlaugur Rรถgnvaldsson

Photo: Dreki Adventure

C

an you imagine yourself steering a full blown 4x4 Supertruck in snow or glacial surroundings, perhaps with a volcano spewing hot lava into the air not too far away and the northern lights high in the sky adding to the flavor? And if you’re not driving, then sitting in the passenger seat, with a very experienced mountain and glacier driver, responsibly taking you around.

Well, you can do one or the other, or for that matter, both. Taking an extreme adventure trip to glaciers in Iceland is a once in a lifetime experience; and you just might want to come back for more!

Focus on this If you are not an “all-out” type, you might want to choose a less extreme experience than riding on top of a glacier, as so much variety is on offer.

Icelandic drivers and tourist companies have become experts in transporting people through Iceland’s raw nature, be it individuals, small or big groups and even huge groups when foreign companies come on incentive tours for their employees. There is also the possibility to get a photographer to take you on tour, upping your odds of getting your snaps right, and in good focus, while experiencing the jaw-dropping landscape. Whatever you choose just know that these tours are worth every krona.

Trucks fit for royalty There are many well respected companies and drivers doing a good job in this field. One of the leading companies in extreme self-drive tours is Artic Trucks Experience, and with them you can drive yourself with good guidance in your own vehicle and sometimes, if you prefer, with a group of people who share the adventure. Artic Trucks are well known in the business and are even taking people to the South Pole, but let’s stick to Iceland for now.

The full experience: snow, ice, volcano and northern lights—can’t beat that for an exhilarating time.

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On top of the world. There is nothing like the thrill of being on top of a glacier, with the sun blazing in the sky, and the clouds below you. Photo: Dreki Adventures

“We offer people the chance to drive by them­­­­selves, experience driving on glaciers and teach them how to react to these con­­ditions. They have their own guide assisting them when need­­ed,” says Freyja Ágústdóttir at Artic Trucks Experience.

Photo: Artic Trucks Experience

Camping out on the glacier with a view of the Holuhraun eruption is a spectacular experience, and included in a tour from Artic Trucks Experience.

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The 4x4s used by Artic Trucks have space for four people and all resemble the ones the hosts of hit TV show Top Gear used when they drove to the Magnetic North Pole and made headlines some years ago. No lesser a man than Prince Harry of the United Kingdom drove such a car in Iceland last year when he was here training for a South Pole expedition, and you can too. Have a driving adventure and view the volcanic eruption at Holuhraun from a good viewing spot on the north of Vatnajökull Glacier, it’s an experience you’ll never forget.

When four wheels just aren’t enough Many companies in Iceland offer chauffeured rides to the glaciers with tourists, and the guys at Dreki Adventures are among those. They have their own operation as well as working for local tour companies. What makes them unique is that they run a pair of 6x6 Toyotas, which means each vehicle has drives on all six wheels. They are completely road legal, even with their 44 inch tires. “We sometimes organize long and highly demanding trips, to wild and remote places, especially during the winter, and our vehicles allow us to carry heavy loads, for example for scientists or film companies, and we get a lot of photographers as well,” says Norwegian Arild Moland. Arild is co-owner of Dreki Adventures with his fellow countryman Odd Joar Moen and

Englishman Mike Herbert. “The blend of snow, fire and ice, is something to cherish on tours, with breathtaking views of the nature. I love the people, the nature, the country, and I have made friends here for life.”

Photo: Artic Trucks Experience

“We offer people the chance to drive by them­­­­ selves, experience driving on glaciers and teach them how to react to these con­­ditions.

They have their own guide assisting them when need­­ed,” says Freyja Ágústdóttir at Artic Trucks Experience. The company runs a fleet of ex­­pertly modified 4x4 Toyotas on 38 inch tires. “People learn how to lower the pressure of the tires to be better able to drive on snow and ice, and if they get stuck, they learn how to get the vehicles free.

So it’s the full experience of driving and learning how to drive a Supertruck on difficult terrain,” Freyja adds.

Be your own driver and challenge the elements, like this lady did on a self-drive trip in the snow. She was learning how to drive in extreme conditions, while viewing the landscape.

Find your ultimate driving adventure: Artic Trucks: www.atx.is Dreki Adventures: www.dreki.smugmug.com

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WOW entrepreneurs

Off the road and right on track A new all-terrain 4x4 vehicle for all-terrain tourism and rescue services has been designed in Iceland, called the Ísar TorVeg. The first examples should hit the roads and glaciers this year.

by Gunnlaugur Rögnvaldsson

I

t takes a daring and insightful mind to go ahead and design a new vehicle from scratch to full production drawings, let alone with limited funds for a project that would take years. Entrepreneurs sometimes sacrifice all to turn an idea into reality. Icelander Ari Arnórsson did just that. His vision to develop a 4x4 for Ice­­­ landic conditions (which, incidentally, are simi­lar to many other parts of the world) originated from his work as a highland driver and guide.

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WOW Power to the people

“The basic idea came a long time ago, while driving over highland tracks in a brand new tour bus with my valued guests being rattled by every pot­hole and deafened by noise.”

A super-economical Supertruck Ari had ideas on what was needed, but an army of experienced mountain and glaci­ er drivers gave comprehensive input. To materialize such a project, solid funding would be needed in the later stages.

Recently, coming on board was a lead in­ vestor who shares the Ísar team’s vision to build the world’s most capable road-going all-terrain passenger vehicle. The first Ísar TorVeg prototype will be on the streets this summer.

“There is a dire need in Iceland, and elsewhere in the world, for highly capable 7-18 seat vehicles with safe comfort on any terrain. The basic idea came a long time ago, while driving over highland tracks in a brand new tour bus with my valued guests being rattled by every pot­hole and deafened by noise. They had paid good money to enjoy the hauntingly beautiful Icelandic nature, but the avail­ able vehicles have been unfit for this pur­pose. What was supposed to be great

enjoyment in fantastic nature became dis­comfort and anxiety because of the vehicle’s shortcomings. I felt that there had to be a better way than this. Then there came a point I had to stop talking about it, and put my money where my mouth was,” says Ari of his first steps in car design and development. He swiftly designed a high­land bus that has now been proven by 8 years of use. It was the precursor for the current Ísar project, which looks more like a classic 4x4, albeit a super-wide and monster looking one.

“Operating buses is a low-margin market sector, a specialized, brutal looking 4x4 has more appeal for paying passengers.

The seat-to-mile rate in the current, highly modified “Supertruck” 4x4’s in Iceland typi­­cally sells at triple the rate of a bus seat because they are tremendously ex­­­ pensive to run and maintain. So, I worked on resolving this, as well as giving all pass­­engers good views, safety, and superb comfort in an environmentally acceptable vehicle,” says Ari.

Photo: Gunnlaugur Rögnvaldsson

The future is charged Manning the Ísar project is a group of highly experienced professionals in their respective fields. Besides Ari two other locals adept at turning ideas into viable, production-ready designs. Engi­­neer Guðmundur Jonsson is a re­­­spected 4x4 builder and local genius in 3D technical design and development. Talent­­­ed auto­­­ motive designer Bjarni Hjartar­­son is in charge of the final visuals. The Ísar vehic­­­les will from the start use com­­­merci­­ ally viable renewable energy, bio-gas from a local landfill, and methan­­­ol made from recycled CO2 as well as geothermal energy. A diesel engine is an option as an electric version isn’t commercially viable yet. In the future, electricity will take over as the energy for the Ísar vehicles but it must function fully in serious off-road and cold winter conditions.

Entrepreneur Ari Arnórsson will soon see his idea come to life, when the Ísar TorVeg 4x4 prototype will hit the road in Iceland. It should happen this summer.

“Instead of setting up a new factory at immense expense, we use a factory that is already there and running. A cluster of established specialist firms cover all construction, assembly and after-sales support by contract, just like with hous­­ es and computers. We have been truly fortunate in attracting Iceland’s best builders to actively participate in the pro­­ject. We are making a versatile and long-lasting yet great looking vehicle plat­­ form, for private purposes, tourism, rescue oper­­ations and other uses.”

“There is a dire need in Iceland, and elsewhere in the world, for highly capable 7-18 seat vehicles with safe comfort on any terrain. The basic idea came a long time ago, while driving over highland tracks in a brand new tour bus with my valued guests being rattled by every pot­hole and deafened by noise.

Rescue operators have had profound design input in the TorVeg, to make it a uniquely capable tool in the world’s most difficult terrain and conditions.

The Isar TorVeg is designed and tested in 3D CAD by Guðmundur Jónsson. The engine is from General Motors, 430 horsepower, with 8 speed gearbox, attached to an aluminum frame and shell, with all-independent suspension.

“I think adapting our travel vehicles to nature is pre­­­ ferable to adapting nature to asphalt vehicles. Thus unexploited natural wonders would be less likely to be­­ come the victims of destructive mass tourism. If nature is too easily accessible it loses its value.”

One in a million With the first production of Ísar cars on schedule for the coming winter, surely there is a lot going on in Ari’s mind these days and this has been a long process.

“My head is usually swarming with ideas.

You get a million ideas, 100,000 of them last a second or two, 1,000 might be worth a second look. Then you start sketching some away and end up with one to really work on. A bit like nature that gives most humans material for millions of offspring, but only a few are born and raised. Product design can be a similar process. You also have to know when to let go of ideas, how­­ ever good they may be. You have to put your imagination to sleep at times, which can be difficult. Focus is vital to finalize things.”

“I must also admit, that it is good for the soul to receive the interest shown in our vehicle from abroad, as well as from the buyers we already have here at home. We aim to make the Ísar the most attractive vehicle to ride in when travelers have the choice. That would be a sound business base for operators to buy them. We want to deliver the first pre-sold production batch in 2015—the target is no later than midnight December 31st,” says Ari.

Adapting to nature By the looks of it, there are sure to be plenty of fireworks around the Ísar project in the coming months and years, and Ari has firm views on Iceland’s future tourism.

Nevertheless he’s opposed to building up asphalted roads for fast access to delicate untouched nature.

“I think adapting our travel vehicles to nature is preferable to adapting nature to asphalt vehicles. Thus unexploited natural wonders would be less likely to become the victims of destructive mass tourism.

If nature is too easily accessible it loses its value. Enough natural wonders have fallen prey to congestion and irreversible damage. All our design and development is fueled by respect for nature as it is. If our aim to decrease the seat-mile cost of Supertrucks by up to 40% proves suc­­ cessful, it could be a small revolution in the field of all-terrain/off-road tourism, and at the same time a way of saving our beautiful nature from destructive roadmak­­ing,” says Ari. Issue one

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Concert hall extraordinaire!

Harpa Reykjavík Concert Hall and Conference Center is one of Reykjavík’s greatest landmarks. The building is like a grand jewel near the harbor in downtown Reykjavík where you can enjoy music, attend conferences and meetings, enjoy delicious food in one of the restaurants or buy Icelandic design and music in one of the shops.

by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

H

arpa is the Icelandic word for the musical instrument harp, the one they say the angels play. Many Icelandic women have been given this beautiful name and the first month of spring in the Old Norse calendar is also called Harpa.

Icelanders waited a long time for their concert hall and when constructions for Harpa started ... well: You’ve probably heard of the financial crash of 2008, right?

In spite of these troubles, it was decided that the work would go on and Harpa open­­­ed in May 2011, it has since attracted about four million guests; remember that Ice­­­land has a population of about 325,000.

so is Harpa and its glass facade; it was the unspoiled nature of the country, the volcanos and the arctic light that in­­­­­­­­spired the architects as well as the work of Elíasson. Because of the unique glass­­­­­­­ work, the appearance of the building chang­­­es, with the colors seemingly danc­­ ing on the facade, especially when it’s dark out­­side. The magical light show switches regul­arly; special light install­­ments have been designed for the façade and during last year’s Reykjavik culture night the people of Reykjavik could use the facade to play a simple video game through a spe­­ci­­al smart phone app. It’s a spectacular light show.

It’s like magic The main designer of Harpa is the Danish architectural firm Henning Larsen Archi­­ tects and the Icelandic architectural firm Batteríið Architects; the glass facade was designed by Icelandic artist Ólafur Elíasson. Icelandic nature is unique and

Take a closer look You can have an English language guided tour at Harpa that takes you into the various concert halls, teaches about the technology used, the construction history and the design features. During the tour, if you are lucky, you’ll get to stand in the

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Icelanders waited a long time for their concert hall and when constructions for Harpa started ... well: You’ve probably heard of the financial crash of 2008, right?

In spite of these troubles, it was decided that the work would go on and Harpa open­­­ed in May 2011.

footsteps of the stars and get a picture of yourself standing on the grand stage of Eldborg, the Grand Red Hall. Also offer­­ed are guided tours for the technical enthusiasts who want to learn more about the various technical equipment and solu­­ tions, and the complicated engineer­ing behind the glass facade.

It’s worth mentioning that Harpa is the winner of the 2013 European Union Prize for Contemporary Architecture, the Mies van der Rohe Award (bear in mind that Iceland is not a member of the EU).

Some say that Harpa is an architectural masterpiece and we agree, Harpa is a true work of art. But it’s more than that, the building has been called Icelander’s assembly hall because it’s not just for those who enjoy great classical music but rather it’s a place for every kind of music from school bands to rock to combinations of dance and pop productions, a place that welcomes all kinds of art and all kinds of people.

A delicious journey

LAEK-1319_148x210.pdf

Amtmannsstíg 1 28.1.2015 09:33 1 • 101 Reykjavík • +345 561 3303 • www.torfan.is

Issue one

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Realm of Vatnajökull

Land of ice and fire In the Realm of Vatnajökull you’ll find the real reason why Iceland got its name. The area is dominated by the great Vatnajökull glacier which is the largest glacier in the world outside the Arctic regions.

Stream­ing from Vatnajökull glacier are around 30 outlet glaciers (valley glaciers that originate in ice sheets, ice caps, and ice fields).

You’ll also find some of Iceland’s most popular tourist attractions in this area, such as the spectacular Jokulsarlon glacier lagoon, Skaftafell, the jewel of Vatnajökull National Park and Hvannadals­ hnukur, the highest peak in Iceland and a popular hike.

Photo: Ragnar Th. Sigurðsson

T

he Vatnajökull Region is filled with contrasts: black beaches, white glaci­­ ers, red volcanoes, green birch for­­est and the blue Atlantic Ocean. Seren­­ ity and the vigorous forces of nature combine to make a visit to the Realm of Vatna­­ jök­­ull a never-to-be-forgotten experience.

Wildlife is rich in the Realm of Vatnajökull with thousands of migrating birds such as puffins and the arctic tern passing through especially in the spring and summer. Herds of reindeers are also a common sight, and if you’re lucky you‘ll spot a seal at Jokulsarlon or an Arctic fox running across the wide terrain. You will also find dozens of companies that offer all sorts of activities year round, diverse accommodation and great restaurants with local food.

the exclusive distinction of being Iceland’s one and only lobster capital and you can find lovely restaurants offering fresh lobster as well as various other local specialties year round. Hofn is also a great base for exploring the magnificent lands of Vatnajökull National Park. Also, be sure to drop by at the park’s Visitor Center in the beautiful historic building, Gamlabúð (Old Store), by the harbor.

Activity, accommodations and restaurants Much of the activity in the Realm of Vatnajökull revolves around the glacier and the nature surrounding it. You can choose between glacier walks and ice climbing, a thrilling snowmobile ride on Vatnajökull or a comfortable tour of Europe’s largest glacier in a super jeep. The area Photographers paradise also offers ATV tours and geothermal baths The Realm of Vatnajökull is in at Hoffell, reindeer excursions, a Have you ever south­­east Ice­­land and spans over visit to Thorbergssetur Cultural imagined looking 200 km of the Ring Road from Museum, a local mineral stone inside a glacier?

Lóma­­­gnúpur in the west to Hvalnes collection, the local handicraft Wintertime in the in the east. It covers the accessible store, the petting zoo at Hólmur and Realm of Vatnajökull southern side of Vatnajökull’s much more. glacier offers the glaciers and photography en­­­ There are various possibilities opportunity of a thusi­­­­asts should find the Realm in accommodations to suit your unique and amaz­­ing of Vatnajökull parti­­cularly de­­­ needs and preferences, and where experience! A trip light­­ful as it provides countless you’ll find a warm welcome by into the ice caves magnificent views of the glaciers knowledgeable hosts. of Vatna­­jökull’s and mountains both in daylight, but There are several restaurants, southern crawling also as dusk settles and the aurora in the area, most of them offering glaciers is another borealis light up the sky. In the local food made in the Realm of great adventure.

Vatna­­­­jökull Region you’ll find a wide Vatnajökull. Be sure to ask for the range of experienced guides and photographers local beer Vatnajökull, which is brewed with who can take you to that picture perfect spot!

Arctic thyme and water from icebergs from the Have you ever imagined looking inside a Jokulsarlon glacial lagoon glacier? Wintertime in the Realm of Vatnajökull glacier offers the opportunity of a unique and Accessible year round amaz­­ing experience! A trip into the ice caves The Vatnajökull region is very accessible of Vatna­­jökull’s southern crawling glaciers is the whole year round due to good weather another great adventure. The colors and refract­­ conditions and frequent transportation. Eagle ed light in the ice reveal a world of true wond­­ers, Air offers daily flights from Reykjavík to Hofn providing a thrill for any photography en­­thusiast.

Airport during the summertime and five days Local guides who know every crevice of the a week during other seasons. Buses (Strætó) glac­ier seek out caves formed during the winter between Reykjavík and Hofn are scheduled daily months and offer tours. Travelers should only go throughout the year. There are also three car on such trips under their guidance. rental companies in Hofn.

Höfn—culture and cuisine!

There is one town in the area, Hofn, a lively fishing town with a population of 1,800. Hofn has

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For more information check www.visitvatnajokull.is.

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CONNECTING

Boston Washington D.C.

I C EL A ND ’ S O N LY H I GH P ER F O R M A N C E LOW-CO S T A I R L I N E

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wowair.com

THE CONTINENTS

Reykjavik

Billund Vilnius Dublin

Copenhagen London Amsterdam Paris

Warsaw

D端sseldorf Stuttgart Lyon

Barcelona

Berlin

Salzburg Milan

Rome

Alicante

Tenerife

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El Camino de Santiago

The Way of St. James

Why would you take a month and walk 800 km in the north of Spain along the trail El Camino de Santiago?

There is no simple answer to this question, but in my case I was between jobs and decided to go ahead and fulfill my dream. It wasn’t easy, but it turned out to be a wonderful adventure.

by Einar Skulason Photos: Einar Skulason and Thinkstockphotos.com

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wanted to create my own experience and let it happen. Therefore I didn’t have a book with me or a detailed map. I only had the two A4 sheets they gave me at the registration along with the pilgrim credentials. That said, I sometimes accompanied people who had books and maps and visited some buildings or other tourist attractions with them.

The crossroads of life You don’t have to have a reason to do the Camino, but it seems that many people do it when they find themselves at a crossroad in life. I did it just after I was made redundant and lost my job. I had time on salary until I started my next job and decided to fulfill a lifelong dream and do the Camino. I met many people that had lost loved ones, who had lost their jobs or needed to think about their future and it was surprisingly easy to discuss all these issues with complete strangers who often became my friends in a matter of hours.

Just getting started.

How it all started El Camino de Santiago, or the Way of St. James, is a very old route of pilgrims dating back to the 9th century. Soon after a religious hermit following a shining star unearthed the tomb of the apostle James the Greater, a flood of Christian European pilgrims began the journey along the way to Santiago de Compostela to seek salvation; its popularity peaking in the 11th and 12th centuries. The Catholic Reformation was devastating for Catholic pilgrimages so the tradition almost died out, but in the late 20th century it regained popularity.

Modern day pilgrims For most people today, doing the Camino is more of a personal or spiritual journey of discovery than a religious one. The scallop shell, sometimes seen in the pictures of St. James and on items worn or carried by the pilgrims, signifies the pilgrim and some still use the traditional staff, but more people seem to go for modern hiking poles. Most people tend to go in the summer and fewest in the winter. I would go for autumn or spring, when the temperature is mild. To finish the Camino and get a compostela (certification of completing the Cam­ ino) from the Church, you must walk at least the last 100 km to Santiago or ride the last 200 km if you are using a bicycle.

Alone and without a plan I wanted to walk the Camino on my own, not with a group or a partner. I saw the whole journey as an opportunity to do some thinking, spend time alone and also to meet new people and that, of course, is always easier if you are on your own. I also refrained from reading about how others had experienced the Camino. I didn’t want to hear too much about how others had done it, since I

Always follow the yellow arrows.

Mezeta.

The unwritten rules You greet the fellow pilgrim by saying “Buen Camino” meaning “Good Way.” How he greets you back indicates whether he wants to be alone or would like to talk to you. Most of the conversations I had on the Camino were marvelous, meaningful and personally giving. When you take your leave from another pil­grim, there is no need to say good-bye, you just say Buen Camino and leave it up to fate if you meet again. He is taking his own journey and you have yours to focus on. I would also urge you to remember that you are a pilgrim, not a tourist, so accept everything you are offered with gratitude and humility and embrace the simple lifestyle.

Life, death and resurrection There are a few routes that lead to Santiago de Compostela and El Camino Francés (The French Way) is the oldest and best known one. El Camino Francés can be divided into three parts: St Jean/Roncesvalles–Burgos sometimes referr­­ed to as “life,” Burgos–Leon on the high plains or the Mezeta referred to as “death,” Leon–Santiago de Compostela referred to as “resurrection.”

This applied to my trip. In the beginning it was like a beautiful adventurous vacation, something new every day. Halfway on the Mezeta it became difficult, the endless plains provided not so much variety in the landscape and at times I even became bored. The body was also giving in a little bit. In the end, when I walked into beautiful hilly and green Galicia, I felt my spirit uplifted and more positive despite the growing pain in my legs. I did the 800 km in 25 days and that without any days to rest. When I look back I realize that it would have been sensible to take a recovery day for every week.

The Albergues After a long day of walking in the heat and dust it was always exciting to see the next Albergue and then find out if it would have a bed for me. The Albergues are like hostels, but exclusively for pilgrims and pilgrim credentials are needed.

A farmer I met in a little village up in the mountains.

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There are showers, facilities for washing and drying clothes and sometimes you can cook there. You can expect bunker beds with 10-70 people sleeping in a room. It took me only two or three nights to get used to it, and after that I usually slept very well. Apart from a looming threat of bed bugs (the only scary thing on the way), only snoring woke me at night. Some people used earplugs to block out the noise, but I preferred music and I recommend the Icelandic band Sigur Rós with their dreamlike sounds.

You can make do with very little luggage on the way.

I had 10 kg in my back­­pack: a sleeping bag, mattress, toiletries, clothes, sneakers and sandals, buff, iPod, camera, phone and a bit more. I hardly used my matt­­­ ress and could have brought a silk liner instead of the sleeping bag (since you could usually get a blanket at the Albergues). I saw so many people leave behind so many things in desperate attempts to lighten their load.

They left sleeping bags, mattresses, clothes, extra shoes, books, hairdryers, gas stoves and all sorts of other things they discovered they didn’t need on the way.

The one scary thing I was only afraid of one thing on the way, the bed bugs (google it for more info). I had heard stories about the bed bugs and it seemed that everyone was trying to avoid them. If someone was so unlucky to be bitten, it wasn’t just one bite—it was like 30-40 bites all over the body, itchy and sometimes causing painful rashes. Then you had to disinfect all your clothes and luggage to prevent carry­­ing the bugs or their eggs on the journey.

Despite those precautions, the victims seemed to have a hard time in the pilgrim society, since many other pilgrims avoided those with visible spots or bites. It was somewhat a harsh reminder of the stories of lepers in the Bible and their exclusion from society.

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Daily routine Typical day on the Camino goes something like this: 5-7 am: Wake up, pack your things and get ready.

6-8 am: Start walking and make a brief stop for breakfast at a bar on the way.

11 am: Lunch at a bar (or buy food at the occasional supermarket).

2 pm: Many pilgrims stop for the night at an Albergue to secure a bed, but I usually took a good rest and then continued.

4-8 pm: Stop at one of the Albergu­ es, have a shower, put on the spare clothes and wash the clothes one has been using during the day.

Then it is off to dinner, to a restau­­ rant serving the Pilgrim menu.

10 pm: Lights out and fall asleep to Sigur Rós music.

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After walking 800 km I finally arrived at the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

Cost of living You could get by with 30 Euros a day on the Camino. The price for a night at the Albergues was never more than 10 Euros a night, sometimes down to 4 Euros or even “donativo” or a voluntary contribution as mentioned before. Most pilgrims ate their breakfast and lunch at bars or restaurants on the way and their dinner in the Albergues or at restaurants offering the Pilgrim menu for 10 Euros. Sometimes it was possible to choose between various courses—if so I always asked the waiter to recommend something from his area, something his mother or grandmother would make for him. All the meals I got were great and I never had any stomach problems. I used the water fountains along the way to fill my camel bag, very good water, and there was never any need to buy water.

Feelings I believe that even the most hard-boiled character must open up a little bit on the Camino. At least I experienced the complete spectrum of feelings. I laughed and cried, fell in love and felt loved, was overcrowded with people wanting to talk to me and then felt lonesome because I didn’t see anyone to talk to. Most pilgrims feel as if they are a part of a community and are constantly offering their help to fellow pilgrims. Sometimes it was a bit too much, but generally it gave you a warm feeling and a sense of belonging to a society of complete strangers willing to do so much for each other. When I returned home many asked if I had experienced a revelation doing the Camino. I’m not sure about that, but at least it confirmed my belief that the people in this world are generally good and that we are all seeking happiness in our own way.

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1. Cruz de Ferro, where pilgrims leave a rock from their home country signifying hardships or troubles they want to leave in the past.

2. A very typical view on the way.

3. Washing weary feat.

4. A little sanctuary in the Pyrenees.

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Monumental D.C.

The Washington Monument Throughout history and in many places around the world, structures have been built for people and events venerated for their historical significance. Washington, D.C. figures prominently as the place where many such monuments and memorials now stand. We would like to explore the meaning and history behind one such structure in the nation’s capital, undoubtedly the district’s most iconic – The Washington Monument.

by Paul Michael Herman Photos: Thinkstockphtos.com

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n 1783 Continental Congress resolved to honor George Washington for his military leadership during the Revo­­­­ lutionary War. They planned “That an equestrian statue of George Was­hing­­­ ton be erected at the place where the residence of Congress shall be estab­­lis­­ hed.” The statue would bear the engraving, “In honor of George Washington, the illu­­s­ trious Commander-in-Chief of the Armies of the United States of America during the war which vindicated and secured their liberty, sovereignty, and independence.”

At that time the residence for the capital district had not yet been established and wouldn’t be until 1791.

“Unparalleled in the world” In 1789 George Washington was unani­­­ mously elected first president of the United States. During his administration he delayed progress on the plan due to funding considerations. After two terms in 1797 George Washington, declining to run for office again, returned to his beloved home in Mount Vernon, Virginia where he died in 1799. Following his death discussions on the project intensified.

A new proposal was made that a tomb be erected within the U.S. Capitol building.

But Washington family’s reservations to disinter his body, a lack of consensus over what type of memorial would best honor the first US president and a continuing problem of insufficient funding combined to postpone the government’s action on the project. Finally in 1832 following the hundredth anniversary of Washington’s birth a large group of concerned citizens formed the Washington National Monu­­ ment Society and private funding began.

In 1835, having raised $28,000 (apx. $756,000 based on its purchasing power today) the society held a competition for the best design describing their expect­­ ations as follows: “It shall be like him in whose honor it is to be constructed, unparalleled in the world, and commensurate with the grati­­tude, liberality and patriotism of the people by whom it is to be erected.”

The oversized chimney Robert Mills, friend of Thomas Jefferson, designer of several federal buildings and architect of international repute won with his neoclassical plan for a 600 foot Egyptian style obelisk ringed by a thirty 100 foot Greco-Roman circular colonnade with statues of 30 notable Revolutionary War heroes inside. A chariot with George

Washington standing in it would be set on a platform above the columns (see illu­­­stration). The cost for this would be $1,000,000 (apx. $27,000,000 today).

In 1848, work began, and on the 4th of July of that year the cornerstone was finally laid. Twenty thousand people attended the ceremony including Presi­­­ dent James K. Polk, Mrs. James Madison, and Mrs. Alexander Hamilton, future presidents Buchanan, Lincoln, and John­­son, representatives of Indian tribal nations and other dignitaries. By 1854 the monument stood about 150 feet above the ground but by then funds were so low that construction ceased. Years passed and many began seeing the unfinished monument as a national embarrassment.

In 1861 Mark Twain, well known for his biting social commentaries brought attention to the unfinished structure by quipp­­­ing that it had the appearance of a “hollow, oversized chimney.”

Adjusting the design In 1876, after the Civil War and nearing the end of the Reconstruction Era, Congress passed a joint resolution assuming the responsibility for funding and building the Washington Monument. This task to direct and build the monument was given to the US Army Corp of Engineers, a key player in the design and construction of Washington, D.C. and headed by Lt. Col. Thomas Lincoln Casey. But before work resumed there was contention regarding the original design and diverse opinions were offered. While a single obelisk with­out the colonnade was suggested, many thought it would be too stark. The architect, Robert Mills was reported to have said that without the colonnade it would make the monument appear like “a stalk of asparagus”. Eventually the plan for the colonnade was abandoned and it was agreed to change the design to a simple obelisk conforming to Egyptian pro­­portions.

The years 1876-1880 were spent shoring up the foundation to ensure it could support a monument that ultimately weighed more than 40,000 tons. Now it was time to resume adding height the structure but there was a problem.

After so many years the old quarry near Baltimore that had been the source of the stones for the bottom part of the monument was no longer available. A quarry in Massachusetts was used for a short time but when problems with the quality of the stones and the irregular deliveries emerged another quarry close to Baltimore was chosen. Three different colors of the stones in the structure tell this story.

As the work continued more adjust­­­ ments on the design were made. To better ensure its stability, Casey was convinced that reducing the height from 600 feet to 555.125 inches, ten times the width of the base would be the optimal height for the monument.

On December 6, 1884, a 3000 pound capstone was placed on top of the monu­­­ ment. On the tip of the capstone a 100

Design for the Washington Monument proposed by Robert Mills.

Robert Mills, friend of Thomas Jefferson, designer of several federal buildings and architect of international repute won with his neoclassical plan for a 600 foot Egyptian style obelisk ringed by a thirty 100 foot Greco-Roman circular colonnade with statues of 30 notable Revolutionary War heroes inside.

ounce aluminum apex/lightning rod in the form of a pyramid (aluminum was very valuable in those days) was placed. On it is inscribed: “Laus deo” meaning “Praise be to God”, a fitting phrase as George Washington was a very religious man.

Finally finished On February 21, 1885 the Washington Monument was dedicated and on October 9, 1888 it was officially opened. It was then the world’s tallest structure, a designation previously held by the Cologne Cathedral and a year later held by the Eiffel Tower.

Today the Washington Monument is the tallest obelisk in the world and the 2nd tallest stone masonry structure (the tallest is the smokestack at the Anaconda Copper Mine outside Butte, Montana).

From the top you can see 30 miles into the distance, beyond where George Washington’s home still stands welcoming an endless flow of guests.

Come see the city of monuments and history in any season. WOW air offers cheap flights to Washington, D.C. via Iceland starting May 2015.

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Boston PhotoWalks

Seeing things from a different angle Saba Alhadi was born in Iraq but moved to the U.S. with her family when she was a small child. She has lived in the Boston area for over 30 years and today she has her own company called PhotoWalks, where she guides people around the city helping them to find that perfect photo opportunity.

Photos: Saba Alhadi

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efore I launched PhotoWalks, my know­ ledge of Boston was limited, com­­pared to what I know now. Once I decided to open a photo walk­­ing tour business, I in­undated myself with lots of books with factual information about Boston’s history and the men and women who helped shape the city over hundreds of years. I was particularly interested in finding fascinating trivia facts to add to my histori­cal commentaries because I find people are especially inter­­est­­ed in surprising information.

Also, I love learning “inside information” from long­ time residents of Beacon Hill, Back Bay and the North End whom I encounter while walking in their historical neighborhoods. Their personal stories cannot be found online or by doing research, and I then include this valuable information in my com­ mentary,” says Saba.

Thinking creatively Saba has been a professional photographer for 15 years but her passion for photography began when she was just 9 years old. “It intensified during the 8 years I worked as a travel agent and journeyed to many wonder­­ful places around the world. Captur­ ing my travels in pictures was, and still is, the best way to document memorable experiences for all eternity.”

When asked about her biggest accomplish­­ments as a photographer Saba has no hesi­­tations: “It is having a direct impact on teaching clients how to see and think cre­­­­atively through photography.

These life­-changing skills are empowering. Being an in­­spiration to clients on an intuitive level is very rewarding to me,” she says and adds that if she could only give one photo­­graph­­ing tip to those who are looking to shoot that perfect holiday photo it would be to ask themselves “‘How can I take this shot cre­­atively’ This will allow you to explore var­­i­­­­ous angles instead of impulsively press­­ing the shutt­er,” Saba says.

Taking that first step PhotoWalks tours are conducted in a small group setting for a more personalized exper­­ience and private tours are available on request. “Whether a client is new to photography, an experienced photo­­grapher, or just interested in listening to historic commentary, they’ll enjoy a PhotoWalks tour experience!” says Saba.

“The idea to start my PhotoWalks company came

to me on an unusually warm day in December 2001: Inspiration is everywhere I was walking on the Boston Common with my Having traveled the world Saba says her camera is camera ready to capture the beautiful city sights. always by her side. “I have been scouting various There were creative pictures waiting to be taken locations outside of Boston for PhotoWalks every­­where I looked! I wondered: ‘how many of Work­­shops, which focuses more on how to use these photo opportunities go un­­noticed by locals the various camera settings on your camera to and visitors?’ Suddenly, inspiration struck! ‘I am elevate photography skills. PhotoWalks Workshops going to start a photo walking tour business in have been held in the picturesque seaside towns Boston: one that provides historical commentary of Rockport and Scituate in Massachusetts. and creative photography tips.’ And that’s how For 2015, plans are in the works for more night Photo­­Walks began... with an idea and a passion for tours and photography workshops in Maine and capturing amazing pictures.”

Connecticut.”

At PhotoWalks, each tour is designed to accom­­ Saba has been photographing in Boston since modate the different skill levels of clients. “People January 2002. “I love Boston’s iconic landmarks of all ages use their own cameras—whether and diverse architecture in Back Bay. The Euro­­ they are point-and-shoot, digital SLR or even a pean-inspired buildings in Copley Square and the smartphone—to capture creative pictures. My 19th century residential area is like going on a trip mess­age to clients is: you don’t have to have a to Italy and France. Many clients have not seen fancy camera to take a beautiful picture, just a cre­­ the awe-inspiring Roman courtyard tucked in the ative eye. And, that begins with the photo­­grap­­her McKim building of the Boston Public Library. It has behind the lens,” says Saba. such a European ambiance, yet it’s in Boston, not On a PhotoWalks tour, locals and tourists visit Italy or France. I am always in awe of the beauty of major attractions and sites off the-beaten path the marble interior, fine architectural details and that they may not have found on their own or in a works of art inside the McKim Building. What’s guidebook. “I have researched remarkable is that this massive the areas of my tours thoroughly 3-story building was built in only 7 and have the back story of the years!” says Saba and adds that she ‘who, what and where’ of the find inspiration for pictures anywhere history. I take participants to and everywhere. “The key is to be areas of interest and share my observant and take notice of the histori­­cal knowledge as well as simple, ordinary things as well as the photographing a subject or scene scenic photo opportunities that exist creatively. Clients walk away with Saba Alhadi, photographer. no matter where our travels take us in fabulous souvenirs—their own the world.” amazing pictures and, perhaps, Boston is often described as a very We asked Saba to give newly discovered hidden talent seasonal city so we asked Saba about our readers that one tip as a photographer! her favorite season for photographing? to get better photos on “Participants on a PhotoWalks “I absolutely love photographing the tour learn how to observe in ways their travels: Public Garden when the flowers and they might not have considered trees are in full bloom in May. The tulip “Some of the most before. We explore city sights beds remind me of the Keukenhof common mistakes in and architectural details from Gardens in Lisse, Holland, but on a photo­­graphy in general a different angle. Many people much smaller scale, of course. Beacon are not getting close have ex­­claimed, ‘I nev­er thought Hill and Back Bay are especially enough to the subject or of taking a picture like that!’ By beautiful in the fall when the leaves showing clients the various ways including things that are are in shades of red, orange yellow and distracting to the photo­­ of explor­­ing creative angles to gold. On a summer evening, the sky graphic com­­posi­tion. By shoot from, they end up with can sometimes be a spectacular blue, slightly adjusting your unique pictures they wouldn’t orange or pink color. Late afternoon shooting position, it can have discovered on their own,” light in autumn is a beautiful golden be easily corrected.”

Saba explains. color.”

Want to take a photographic walk through Boston?

Check out www.photowalks.com for more information on Saba’s tours.

WOW air flights to and from Boston via Iceland will commence on 27 March with several flights a week all year round.

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Panoramic Ireland

History, geography and culture Photographer Darren McLoughlin has lived in fair Dublin for 15 years and says walking, and more walking, is how he’s really gotten to know his city.

Photos: Darren McLoughlin

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ome days I cover 20 km on foot through the city streets, exploring and gett­­­ ing lost, meeting people and go­­ing back to the interest­ ing places often,” he says.

Land and lens combined Darren has been photographing Ire­­ land ever since he was big enough to hold a camera. A professional photo­­ graph­er since 2006, in 2009 Darren started his one-to-one photo­­­­graphy workshops in Ireland and Pano­­ramic Ireland Tours. “I have been publis­­ hed in newspapers, travel guid­­es, calendars etc., been com­­miss­­ioned to photograph buildings, people and artworks but helping people to enjoy their visit to Ireland and improve their photography remains the most rew­­arding thing that I have ever done,” he says. “I’ve always been interested in several things: Ireland—its people, history and geography—photography, and travel. My degree is in geography and I have also worked in archaeology here in Ireland so it made sense to create photography tours that com­­ bine all these elements,” he adds.

Do clients need to have extensive photography experience to be able to follow you?

“Not at all, I have guided everyone from those using camera phones and compacts to medium format film cameras, all of which I use my­­self. Undoubtedly though, those with cameras that allow for manual control, setting aperture, shutter speed and ISO, will benefit the most.

Dunluce Castle.

The mighty Dunluce Castle, perched atop cliffs on the Antrim Coast. Mostly dating from the 16th century, the castle was surrounded by a planned town. Part of the kitchens fell into the sea in the mid-17th century.

Pano­­­ramic Ireland photography tours can create a special itinerary to do many things: to show you the best locations (not necessarily the most famous), to challenge you and to help you improve your composition and technical skills. It depends on what the person is most interested in.

Learning in the field is always more fun than reading an article on the internet or reading a photography manual,” Darren informs. “I can ex­­ plain and answer questions about local history, geography and culture of the places we visit as the tour progresses. I also offer a come-to­­ -you tour that allows me to fit in to a visitor’s schedule. I can meet partici­­­ pants on a part of their journey for a half-day, a day or longer—be that Dublin, Antrim or Kerry. I operate in as flexible a manner as possible.”

Darren McLoughlin, photographer.

Tips from the pro We asked Darren to give our readers one good tip to get better photos on their travels: “It’s good to bear in mind that it takes longer to get around Ireland than most people allow time for. There is a lot packed into every corner of the country. Don’t try and do it all in one or two weeks. Also, know your camera well. This is the starting point for making good images. The more comfortable you are in using your camera the better the results will be.”

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Four Courts.

Dublin’s Four Courts, one of the many iconic Georgian buildings in the city, catches the late evening sunlight.

“The one-to-one time that Pano­­­ramic Ireland offers is invaluable when learning difficult concepts and there is always plenty of time for quest­ions.”

Famine memorial.

The famine memorial, located on the part of the River Liffey where many people emigrated from during the Great Famine in the mid-19th century.

How does a photography guide differ from other guides?

“The idea of using a photographer as a guide rather than taking a tra­­­ ditional tour is that a photo­­­graph­­er will structure your day around key events or locations, knowing the best places for sunrise, sunset and to maximize your time, by adapting to weather conditions—waiting for better light or moving to a different location. These things are not possi­ ble on a general tour where you might have five minutes at a location or only to see it out of the window as you pass,” says Darren.

“The one-to-one time that Pano­­­ ramic Ireland offers is invaluable when learning difficult concepts and there is always plenty of time for quest­ions,” he adds.

Coastal landscapes and city streets Dublin is scenically situated on the Irish Sea with the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains as a backdrop.

Darren says he likes photographing the countryside as much as he likes photographing in the city: “It is very easy to get to miles of beautiful coast­­line for landscape images.

In fact it is possible to photograph coastal landscapes and the city streets comfortably in the same day,” he explains.

favorite for its big skies and beautiful open landscapes. The Irish painter Paul Henry painted a lot there in the first half of the 20th century. The natural light around Connemara is a feature of many of his works and it is possible today to find similar light and scenes through the camera’s viewfinder.”

Do you have a favorite season to photograph?

Dark Hedges.

The Dark Hedges, an avenue of beech trees which are now almost 300 years old. Recently this avenue was used by HBO in its Game of Thrones series as the King’s Road, and as a result has become one of the most photographed places in Ireland.

What place or photo-op do you think has most awed or surprised your clients?

The Dark Hedges in County Antrim, this avenue of beech trees is awe inspiring with its 300-year old branch­es twisting and intertwining above the undulating road. It has been used in HBO’s Game of Thrones and as a result is probably Ireland’s most photographed road.

“I tend to favor spring and autumn.

The stretch in the spring evenings along with fresh green leaves and delicate flowers provide plenty of character and of course the autumn has all of that golden, brown and red color fallen or about to fall. Dublin is a very leafy city with many parks and avenues so the spring and autumn are equally as colorful and noticeable in the city.”

What is your favorite spot to photograph and why?

“In Dublin it has to be the River Liffey that flows from east to west through the city. The rising and setting sun always illuminates the iconic Georgian buildings (Four Courts and Custom House) and the modern architecture at night reflects in the calm waters of the river. Outside the city, Connemara is probably my

The spire.

The Spire on O’Connell Street, the center of the city and popular meeting place.

Get your own magnificent photos of beautiful Ireland Visit www.panoramicireland.com for more information on Darren’s photo tours.

Are you ready Ireland? WOW air’s year round flights to Dublin start 2 June.

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Terrific Tenerife

Memories to keep you warm Who doesn’t dream of living some place where it’s warm and sunny? Photographer Olaf Reinen is living that dream in Tenerife where for the past three winters he’s lived with his wife and son.

Photos: Olaf Reinen

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enerife has the perfect winter climate, and besides that, it has excellent food and great architecture. Plus, I love Mt Teide—it is one of my favorite places to photograph, day and night; it’s also the perfect place for star photography,” says Olaf.

Well-traveled Olaf started his photography career young and has been a professional photographer for 25 years. He has spent a lot of time exploring the is­­land of Tenerife. “My natural curiosity and love of photography keeps me searching for the best places for photographs. The diverse scenery: the vill­­ages, beaches, forests, its mountain and lava are photographically very enjoyable,” he says. “I love to travel, and have visited over 40 countries so far—from New Zealand to the Caribbean, Hong Kong to Europe. Almost every place I have been has presented great photo opportunities. The world is an amazing place full of incredible vistas that I love to explore and photograph.”

During his extensive career Olaf has had a successful wedding and portrait studio in New Zea­­land, and with his wife he’s created, written and photographed seven books which were pub­ lis­­­hed internationally. “These were books based on our animal photography, and led also to an inter­­national licensing program which means our photos were also used on posters, jigsaw puzzles and so on. We even won a Henry Award (for greeting cards) in the UK for Best Photographic Range of cards. From there we decided to travel and spent three years traveling the world looking for a new place to live, ending up on the Island of Santorini in Greece. We were invited to photograph weddings there, and that’s where I developed the idea for Photo Tours, which is what I do in the summertime there and now in the wintertime here on Tenerife.

I had come to the point in my life where I realized one of my gifts is to share my photography exper­­ iences with people who want to improve their skills, and get to see the best of the place they are going to on holiday. The Photo Tour is a great way to shortcut to the best photo spots, and to learn how to take the best photographs of what we see,” Olaf explains. “I’m very happy to be at a point in

experienced amateurs. As my tours are private (I never mix groups of people who don’t know each other), this means our time together is tailored to exactly what each client wants. In other words— whatever the level, I’m happy to help!

“If you want to find the best places to take photos, it’s much easier with someone who knows where there’s the best lighting at the best time

my career where I can visit beautiful islands along with my clients while helping them to improve their photography. It’s a very satisfying and rewarding life!” he adds.

of day. My focus is on the places and scenes that photograph well, and of course we will spend time discussing photography, which is always fun! My approach is to share my philosophy on photography along with practical camera tips, so at the end of the day, they will have new skills and ideas to carry on the pursuit of great photography,” Olaf adds.

A photo tour for everyone There’s no need to worry about your photography skills or gear if you want to take a tour with Olaf.

“My clients come from a very wide range of photo­­ graphy experience—from people with iPhones, to beginners who have just bought their first ‘proper’ digital camera, and right through to very

Awe inspiring Tenerife We asked Olaf which he liked better, photographing towns and cities or photographing out in the

My natural curiosity and love of photography keeps me searching for the best places for photographs.

The diverse scenery: the villages, beaches, forests, its mountain and lava are photographically very enjoyable.”

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country. “That’s a tough one, as both offer great photo opportunities. I love street photography, observing people and human nature, and I like quirky, which normally shows up in an urban environment. I also love the peace and serenity of the countryside and the awesomeness of creation—nature is magnificent, and Tenerife has its share of spectacular scenes,” he answered.

Speaking of spectacular scenes, Mt Teide seems to have a great hold over Olaf and he says it never ceases to amaze and inspire him and his clients.

“It is an awe-inspiring place!” says Olaf. But there are other surprising photo-ops on this island, “One of the surprising elements to photograph is Carnival, held in February each year.

The attention to detail, the sheer number of people involved, and the magnificence of the pageantry is something to behold! And photograph,

Olaf Reinen, photographer.

Tips from the pro We asked Olaf to give our readers one good tip to get better photos on their travels: “My number one rule is: “Just take the picture!”

If you don’t take it, what do you have? Not just nothing, but when you get home you will have the regret of knowing you saw something great, and didn’t record it ...”

of course!” His favorite spots on Tenerife? “There are too many to mention - Garrachico, the forest at Las Raices, La Laguna, Auditorio de Tenerife, Mt Teide… the list goes on!”

As Olaf only spends his winters in Tenerife that is of course his favorite season. “I especially love it if it has snowed on Mt Teide. You can be photographing in the snow, and then within a couple of hours be back on the beach for a swim!

In fact, the locals love to go up to the snow, build a snowman on the hood of their cars, and then see if they can get down to the beach before the snow­­man melts! I’ve tried it. It’s definitely possi­ble!”

“I particularly like the afternoon light here; it is always warm and soft, but I also love bright blue skies for contrast, and we get plenty of those too, even in

wintertime! When you travel, you don’t always get to choose the lighting or time of day you prefer. One of the things I teach is how to make the most of the light you have.”

Want to get great photos in Tenerife? Visit www.tenerifephotographytours.com and santoriniphototours.com to book a tour with Olaf.

Get ready for warmer days. WOW air starts year round flights to Tenerife at the end of March.

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Picture this!

Picture perfect Paris In 1839 Louis Daguerre presented the world’s first known practical photographic process to the French Academy, putting Paris at the forefront of the development of photography. Robert Capa, Henri-Cartier Bresson, Robert Doisneau, Man Ray, Richard Avedon and Annie Leibovitz, some of the greatest photographers have been inspired by the city’s formal architecture and dramatic light and we’re sure you are too. Whether you are a professional photographer or an enthusiast, looking for great photos for your living room walls or just hunting for that great selfie opportunity for your Instagram and Facebook account, Paris has something for you.

by Silvia Sabes Photos: Sylvia Sabes and Better Travel Photos / Sophie Pasquet

Paume Museum. Fondation Henri CartierBresson is an artist’s atelier that has been converted into an exhibition space for smaller, more intimate shows, with a 3rd floor dedicated to the eponymous artist and his work with a lecture space that welcomes guests throughout the year.

On the wall Housed in a renovated mansion in the trendy Marais neighborhood, La Maison Européene de la Photographie features temporary exhibits of some of the most important photographers today. Most recently the walls have worn the works of Sebastiao Salgado and Irving Penn.

Their world-class show complements the equally impressive lineup of temporary collections presented by the Jeu de

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WOW Power to the people

Get it in print Those looking for more inspiration, or a coffee table souvenir of their adventures in Paris, will find what they’re looking for at La Chambre Claire, a postcard sized bookstore with over 350 titles featuring international stars of the photography scene. For out of print titles and old fashion magazines, head to Le Comptoir de l’Image at 44 rue de Sevigné in the 3rd.

For your home Paris is scattered with galleries specializing in vintage prints and modern art photography that you can take home and frame. The most distinguished may

The most distinguished may be the Galerie Camera Obscura with collectable pieces by Marc Ribaud and Willy Ronis. Modern photography can be found at the Polka Galerie, which also edits a quarterly magazine on photography in the world today.

be the Galerie Camera Obscura with collectable pieces by Marc Ribaud and Willy Ronis. Modern photography can be found at the Polka Galerie, which also edits a quarterly magazine on photography in the world today. A fun, anonymous selection is available at Fabien Breuvart’s Images & Portraits with vintage black and white photos available for as little at 1€.

Smile!

If you’d like to get a portrait of yourself while exploring the City of Light, there are plenty of tours available, but for the quintessential photo that oozes Paris­ ian elegance, Studio Harcourt has been capturing the images of French icons since the 1930’s and they are happy to give you the star treatment for a day, or even an hour, at their sumptuous studios. Running short on time, or not up for the investment? Try the con­­­sider­­ ably more affordable instant Foto­­maton booth that captures the Harcourt style at the Hotel Artus.

and night photo tours with professional photographers who tailor their tours to your skill level and learning goals. They also offer more intensive work­­­shops several times a year, and port­­rait sessions with city scenery. For a totally unique experience, fine art photographer Eric Marais has created Stenoflex Pinhole Cameras with their own mini lab. The cameras can be found at museum gift shops and specialty bookstores, as well as Galerie Bînome, where Eric also organizes photo tours focusing on this new wave take on this old wave technology. For a three hour

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adventure rediscovering the real magic of photography as images develop before your eyes, you are taken back to the art that was first explored in Paris nearly two centuries ago.

Selfie Central Paris is a visual buffet with photo ops at every corner, but if you are looking for that perfect selfie-op with a monument in view try these hot spots: - The Alexandre III bridge for gilded statuary with the Eiffel Tower in the distance.

- The western tip of the Ile St Louis for a scene of the Seine and her bridges.

- Trocadero for the Eiffel Tower from tip to toe.

- The steps in front of the Sacre Coeur Basilica with Paris at your feet.

Address book for picture perfect Paris: La Maison Européene de la Photographie - 5-7 rue de Fourcy, 4th Jeu de Paume - 1 Place de la Concorde, 8th Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson - 2 impasse Lebouis, 14th La Chambre Claire - 14 rue St Sulpice, 6th Le Comptoir de l’Image - 44 rue de Sevigné, 3rd Galerie Camera Obscura - 268 Boulevard Raspail, 14th Polka Galerie - 12 rue Saint-Gilles, 3rd Images & Portraits - 35-37 rue Charlot, 3rd Studio Harcourt - 10 rue Jean Goujon, 8th Artus Hotel - 34 rue de Buci, 6th Better Travel Photos - http://www.bettertravelphotos.com Galerie Binôme - 19 rue Charlemagne, 4th

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WOW air offers cheap flights to Paris via Iceland all year round.

Book online www.specialtours.is / info@specialtours.is Issue one 99 Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour

Photographing Rome

The 3000 years old city Photographer Steve Bisgrove has lived in Rome since 1995 and conducted photography tours there since 2006 but he’s originally from the west of England and met his Roman wife in London.

Photos: Steve Bisgrove

W

e got married in Rome where my wife lived, but her work required that she transfer to Milan. However, she missed Rome and the Roman way of life so we moved here in 1995. Rome and Milan are two cities with very differ­­ent characters. Milan is elegant, more composed and Mittel European, while Rome is Medi­­terranean, relaxed yet bustling, haphazard and warmer. And the Romans as people are the salt of the earth,” says Steve.

Steve Bisgrove, photographer.

Iceland. We began working together—still do, and have become very good friends.” Steve says one of the thing he loves about his job is meeting the people. “I really enjoy showing the places I love, that they never would’ve found on their own or even in a guidebook. It gives me a buzz to take these photographers around my adopted city and help them get some great photos.”

“It’s not the horse but the rider” The Photographing Rome tours are for anyone who

Tips from the pro We asked Steve to give our readers one good tip to get better photos on their travels: “I would say to never hesitate when you see an action or an event that you think is worth photographing. Once you worry about if you have the right settings, or whether the people will object if you photograph them, then you have lost the shot. So when walking around keep your settings on P for program, and don’t be afraid to choose a high ISO, 800 or even 1000 will give good definition, and you can stop down a bit and have a fast enough shutter speed to freeze people walking. Use Manual or Aperture Priority when you have time to control your point of view, where you want the sun to be and where you can be picky about your background.”

Multi-layered After living in Rome for almost 20 years, Steve has an intimate knowledge of Rome. “I find the history of Rome fascinating. And after all, it is almost three thousand years old, so it isn’t short on history; each époque built on top of the previous one: the medieval over the Ancient Roman, Renais­ sance onto the medieval, and then topped off with the Baroque. Then there is the artistic history; it was here that Michelangelo, Rafael, Caravaggio, Bernini, Borromini, to name a few, vied with their rivals to bring about what might be the highest achievements ever in art.”

Steve began conducting tours for Photographing Rome in 2006, how did that come about? “National Geographic photographer Tony Boccaccio saw my website and asked me if I wanted to come on board. He had been taking tours around Rome but wanted to concentrate on other countries and places, including the Amazon and, coincidentally,

wants to improve their skills and take memor­able photos of their holiday. “You don’t need exten­ sive photographic experience to be able to enjoy a Photographing Rome tour. A complete beginner and a professional alike will come away with something special. It does help to have a working knowledge of your camera of course, but it is not necessary to have a sophisticated DSLR. As someone once said, ‘it is not the horse but the rider,’” Steve explains adding that a photographic guide is a great option for those who want to im­­prove their photographic technique and get some good photos.”

As a photography guide Steve helps people gett­­­­­ ing the types of shots they might otherwise miss on their own. “A photography guide is a pro­­fessi­­ onal photographer who will impart his photo­­ graphy know-how so that you can return from your vacation with a photographic story that you can be proud of,” he says. His clients are usually stunn­­­ed by the interiors of some of the churches in

Rome. “It’s surprising because of the fairly modest exteriors. I am familiar with a lot of out of the way places too. Sometimes a shop cellar, or a hidden courtyard, or an oratorio that no one would suspect exists behind closed doors. Oftentimes we get the chance to photograph some of the artisans and craftsmen who still work in the center of Rome.

And there are so many, for example: violin makers, furniture restorers, artists, engravers and wicker workers. These sessions are always fun and give clients the chance to chat with some of the great people who live here.

The photographer’s favorites “I like going round the area between Campo de’ Fiori and down to the Bridge of Angels. This is an area that grew up in medieval times; it’s close to the river and the Vatican, and the heart of Rome still beats here. The atmosphere is very workaday and friendly, and there are fewer tourists. However some artisans’ workshops are closing, some of the bars are getting a makeover and wine bars are opening. It is a labyrinth of winding streets, small courtyards and alleyways and it still retains a lot of workshops and small craftsmen’s shops where people are working as they might have done two hundred or more years ago. The Jewish Ghetto is another area with a similar down to earth “neighborhood” atmosphere,” Steve says and adds that “each season has its charm, especially the autumn, but in the summer the harsh midday light can become a challenge. Photographing in the summer is best done either early or later in the day.” Steve continues, “the light in Rome has a special quality to it. In the late afternoon it is soft and warm. No wonder it attracted so many painters to come and paint Rome over the centuries.”

Having guided so many clients through the streets of Rome and photographing by himself Steve knows the pitfalls of photography. “It’s not taking time to think about what you’re photo­­graph­ ing. When you photograph you must think, in an instant, what am I photographing and why am I doing it. If it strikes you as having a story behind it, however small, then take the time to compose your photo, and think about the background. Don’t ruin a great shot because you didn’t notice a police car, or the scaffolding behind,” he says.

Want to get great photos in Rome.

Visit http://www.photographingrome.com and book your tour with Steve.

WOW air will start flying to Rome on June 26, one flight a week until the end of August.

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This and that …

mostly this

Iggy Pop is coming to ATP Iceland All Tomorrow’s Parties Iceland has just announc­ ed another headliner for their 2015 festival held at Ásbrú (the old US Army base we were just telling you about) on 2-4 July. The inimitable Iggy Pop will play his first solo shows in a decade, performing classic hits from “Lust for life” and “THE IDIOT.” Besides announcing the great Iggy, ATP also announced the band Drive Like Jehu, who, last year, played their first show in almost 20 years and can claim to be one of the most seminal and influential artists of recent time. ATP Iceland will be the only place you can see them live at a festival in Europe this summer.

Iceland Defense Force Once upon a time the US Army had a base in Iceland. The base was close to Keflavik Air­­port on Miðnes, and at its largest, it was home to around 5,700 Americans that lived in this closed off community with their own shops, hospital, swimming pool, nightclubs, airport, schools, movie theater and so on; all very different from the average Icelandic town. After 55 years, in September 2006, the US Army left Iceland and their town became des­­erted. Photographer Bragi Þór Jósefsson, one of Iceland’s most prestigious architectural photographers got to visit the abandoned town and photograph it before Icelanders took over and started changing it into the Icelandic university town it is today.

Buildings no longer serving their original purpose waited patiently in the Reykjanes lava field for nature or new masters to decide their fate. An exhibition of these photos are now being displayed at the Reykjavik Museum of Photography, and Bragi has also made a photographic book depicting the abandoned American base. The book, called Iceland Defense Force, is now available in most bookstores.

The line up so far: Iggy Pop, Drive Like Jehu, Belle and Sebastian, Godspeed You! Black Emperor, Run The Jewels, Mudhoney, Kiasmos, HAM, Ought, Clipping., The Bug, Loop, Xylouris White, Deafheaven, Iceage, Chelsea Wolfe, The Field, White Hills, Ghostigital, Vision Fortune, Younghusband, Tall Firs. Grimm Grimm.

Find yourself in the West Fjords with ISlandfrauen ISlandfrauen was founded in late 2013

by Helga Hausner, a native German who has lived in Iceland since 1997. The target group are women in the middle section of their lives, looking for a break from everyday life with time for reflection and reorientation.

ISlandfrauen now offers women-only spring and autumn workshop trips in the Icelandic West­fjords. The destination of the trips is the small histor­ic town of Þingeyri. In the unique nature of the Icelandic West Fjords—with towering moun­­ Helga Hausner. Photo: Maik Brötzmann. tains and harsh climate—women discover the region and have time for themselves.

“We use the nature, mysticism and legends of Iceland, because they are particularly well suited to ‘self-discovery,’” says Helga Hausner.

ISlandfrauen offers several workshop trips for German speaking women based on various topics, such as “Recharge one’s batteries (Kraft Tanken),” “Wishes come true (Wünsche erfüllen)” and “Get to know Iceland (Island kennenlernen).” “Get to know Iceland” and “Awaken your Energ­­ies” workshops are available in English. The retreats include meditation, Qi Gong, breathing exercises, drums and creative work. Besides the workshop there’s plenty of time for swimming, horseback riding or just relaxing. On the final day there’s an entertaining evening spent with locals around a campfire.

Check out www.islandfrauen.de for more information.

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Musical genius We’ve always known that Icelanders have a musical gift but now we have proof. Composer Jóhann Jóhannsson recently won the Golden Globe Awards for his original score to the film “Theory of Everything.” He’s the first Icelander to win a Golden Globe. Jóhann has also been nominated for an Oscar and all of us are crossing our fingers in the hope of Jóhann also becoming the first Icelander to receive that gilded dude.

In the score to Theory of Everything, a movie based on Stephen Hawking’s life, Jóhann blended live orchestral and electronic instrumentation to create the score’s unique emotional contours. For an insight into Jóhann’s Icelandic music career you can check out his former bands Apparat Organ Qartet and HAM. Good luck at the Oscars Jóhann!

Björk does it again We love Björk and it seems she loves us back as she’s just released her ninth studio album, Vulnicura, a deeply personal and tortured study into the end of a romantic relationship.

Although the circumstances of her rushed release of the album are anything but pleasant (the album was leaked online a few months before it was supposed to be released) critics and fans are welcoming it with open arms, almost sighing in relief that the world did not have to wait a moment longer to hear this masterpiece.

Give it a listen and discover the reason we’ve always loved break-up albums.

This and that …

mostly this

Photo: Sigurjón Ragnar.

“writes great characters with many layers, using the barren Icelandic nature to its fullest with its cold, darkness and howling wind. This all comes together in a crime novel so thrilling that few can match it.”

This is not Yrsa’s only compliment. Last De­c­­­em­­ber her novel “Someone to watch over me” (Horfðu á mig) landed on the Sunday Times’ guide to the 50 best thrillers and crime novels of the past five years. Yrsa has truly mastered the art of suspense and horror and if you really want the be’jesus scared out of you we recommend her book “I Remember You” (Ég man þig).

The scariest woman in Iceland According to Ørjan Greiff Johnsen, literary critic at the Adresseavisen in Norway, Icelandic crime novelist Yrsa Sigurðardóttir is the best crime writer in the Nordic countries. Yrsa’s extremely suspenseful novels have been translated into several languages and in his article, Johnsen, after reading “The Undesired” (Kuldi), says that Yrsa

play for our national team now coach abroad.

Denmark’s coach is Guðmundur Guðmundsson who used to coach the Icelandic National Team and got them to second place at the Olympic Games in 2008 (Denmark beat Iceland in Qatar 30-25). Germany’s coach is Dagur Sigurðsson, former national player, and Austria’s coach is Patrekur Jóhannesson, also a former national player.

Icelander’s rule at Qatar Even though our national handball team didn’t go all the way to the finals at the 24th Men’s Handball World Championship in Qatar you could say that Icelanders pretty much owned the championship. As it turns out Iceland’s national team didn’t have the only Icelandic coach (their own Aron Kristjánsson) as Denmark, Germany and Austria all had an Icelandic coach for their team as well.

What is it with this little nation and handball?

We really don’t know, probably something to do with genes. The majority of the players on our national team already play for various clubs around Europe and the one’s that used to

Former coach for the Icelandic national team and present coach for the Danish national team, Guðmundur Guðmundsson

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This and that …

mostly this

Photo: Íris Björk

A Shooting Star

performing in English as in her native Ice­­landic and playing historical characters just as effortlessly as their modern-day counterparts. Despite those timeless, angelic looks, however, Hera’s range is deceptive—there’s definitely a fire there.”

Among established actors and actresses who have been selected as Shooting Stars by the EFP over the year are Rachel Weisz (1998), Iben Hjejle (1999), Daniel Craig (2000), Daniel Brühl (2003), Nikolaj Lie Kaas (2003) and Carey Mulligan (2009). Congratulations Hera!

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very year the European Film Promotion (EFP) selects a list of 10 young and promising actors and presents them at the Berlinale Film Festival. This year they selected Ice­­­­landic actress Hera Hilmar for their Shoot­­ing Stars group. Hera has gotten critical acclaim for her performances in Vonar­­ stræti (Hope Street), Anna Karenina and Da Vinci’s Demons.

The jury’s reasoning for selecting Hera Hilmar as a Shooting Star reads as follows: “Hera was an easy choice to make, show­ ing herself as adept and expressive when

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Laugavegur 130, ofan við Hlemm 104

WOW Power to the people

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Skulls & Halos Designer and artist Harpa Einarsdóttir has opened a new shop called Baugar & Bein (Skulls & Halos) in the Viking Village in Hafnarfjörður, a small town just outside Reykjavík.

Einarsdóttir is known for her art and fashion design in Iceland and has now abandoned her pre­­vious line, Ziska, to focus on her new shop which sells items by selected Icelandic designers among its treasures, new and old.

The shop, Baugar & Bein, features the designs of various Icelandic designers and artists.

Each month the shop also pre­­ sents a “young talent of the month” who gets to sell and show his or her work free of charge, with the possibility of getting a study place in the store. The idea is to help young artists and designers get their product to the consumers, and to get some feedback on it.

The store itself is quite unique, the feeling is a little bit like enter­­ ing someone’s home, perhaps an old aunt who gathers all kinds of weird things. There is a white fox and a raven on the wall, amid ram skulls and amazing handmade perfume bottles. The name of the shop is taken from an art show created by Einarsdóttir in 2010.

“I’ve been focusing on balance in my work, the yin and the yang, black and white, day and night,”

she explains. “There has to be bad so that you know what is good and that explains the name.”

Originally, Einarsdóttir was just looking for an artist studio in Hafnarfjörður; the idea for the shop came later and she hop­es that working with young design­­ ers will also serve to inspire her own work. “Some of my art­­work is in the shop and I have a new clothing line that is being manufactured at the moment which I’m planning to bring into the shop soon,” she says.

Among those whose works are featured in the shop are her sister, photographer Gígja Einarsdóttir, designers Eygló, Kyrja and Helicopter, artist Dýrka, and many more. There is a scent of bergamot and lavender waft­ing through the air from the mystical soaps and bath products by Særún, and many other inter­est­ ing things to see.

Photos: Guðmann Þór.

This and that …

mostly this natural appearance, providing a rare insight into the evolution and changes of glaciers. Overseeing the construction is a team of designers, engineers and our best geologist and glacier experts.

During the construction of the ice cave a great crevasse was discovered in the glacier. “This natural phenomenon is an added bonus to the ice cave. The crevasse is 5 meters wide and 200-300 meters long and the ice cave connects to the bottom of it. The view into the crevasse is a magnificent sight,” says Sigurður.

We can hardly wait to stroll along the Langjokull IceCave and experience this man-made wonder with our own eyes. What about you?

Inside the glacier Glaciers cover about 11% of Iceland and in 2015 there will be a big change in how we view these white giants. In 2014 construction began for a 500 meters long ice cave under Langjokull glacier, the second largest ice cap in Iceland, and now this man-made marvel is almost complete.

Langjokull IceCave will be the longest ice cave in Europe. “Right now we’re doing the finishing touches, making sure everything is in order before we put in state of the art LED lights,” says Sigurður Skarphéðinsson, CEO of Ice Cave Iceland who manages this project. “We’ll be ready for our first guests in June.”

The Langjokull IceCave, which actually goes a full circle inside the glacier, is designed with a

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To book in advance: tel:+354 588 5522 or on www.hreyfill.is E-mail: tour@hreyfill.is

Issue one

105

Hey

look!

Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on.

Text by www.festivals.is

What’s going on over here?

What: Aldrei fór ég suður When: 3-4 April Where: Ísafjörður Björk used to sing, “There is more to life than this.” So, on that note, leave the parties in the capital behind and take your Easter break in the West Fjords of Iceland to experience the beauty of the scenic village called Ísafjörður, where you can participate in a sonic feast called ‘Aldrei fór ég suður’ (I Never Went South) - one of the big ones that made it onto Iceland’s festival map in 2004. And since the best things in life are free, as you might expect, this festival is free of charge.

What’s even more exciting, the festival is family-friendly and has been created totally by the enthusiastic work of volunteers. Pop stars, punk hipsters, people from all over Iceland... and actually everyone who just wants to chill out and have a great time is welcome. ‘Aldrei fór ég suður’ offers a wide variety of music during this two day “fest“ with a focus on the best local Icelandic names.

www.aldrei.is

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What: Design March When: 12-15 March Where: Downtown Reykjavík

What: Food & Fun When: 25 February - 1 March Where: Reykjavík

Among the many incredibly im­­­ press­­ive things about Iceland is that cre­­ativity seems to bubble out of the wonderful folks living on this island.

DesignMarch is a kind of outlet for this artistic ingenuity. For the 7th year in a row, Reykjavík offers its guests and residents an invitation to discover admirable creations that have arrived on the local scene. Cre­­ ating a platform for all kinds of art, from architecture to jewelry to food masterpieces, this festival brings the hottest and most exciting Icelandic and international talents in the design world.

What could be better than delicious food and a lot of fun? We’re guess­­­­ing not much. Popping up in Reykjavík during the last week of February, Food & Fun will let you know why Icelanders are so high on the list of the happiest people in the world. The festival draws guests from all over the world who come to expand their palate… and satisfy their appetite during the special cooking events put on by world-acclaimed chefs.

Want a recipe for a successful stay in Iceland? Take some great culinary skills, braised slowly for an entire week at the chef’s competition, the highlight of the festival, sprinkle some outdoor adventures on top and pour a bit of Reykjavík’s unique nightlife into this tasteful mixture. Bon appetit!

www.foodandfun.is

DesignMarch is a four day event where you can expand your mind and have fun while attending many open­­ings, events, fashion shows, exhibitions... and just parties that will be taking place all over down­­ town Reykjavík. The festival is free of charge and open for all, so no way you should miss this one!

www.designmarch.is

© Erró. Title: Maður með blóm (e. Man with flower), 1985.

What: Erró and art history When: 3 September 2014 27 September 2015 Where: Hafnarhús, Reykjavík

Works of Erró, one of Iceland’s most beloved artists, will be displayed at Hafnarhús. Erró has made a significant impact on art history and the theme of this exhibition is art history itself. In this exhibition we see his works with images and fragments of pictures by some of history’s leading artists such as Picasso and Léger.

www.listasafnreykjavikur.is

Johannes Sveinsson Kjarval (15 October 1885 – 13 April 1972) was an Icelandic painter. He is by many considered one of the most important artists of Iceland.

What: Poetic color palette, from the Kjarval collection When: 17 January 15 March Where: Kjarvalsstaðir, Reykjavík Painter Kjaval is one of the biggest names in Icelandic art history.

Through his landscapes he taught Icelanders to value the unique beauty of the lava and moss. His works presented a new experience of Iceland’s nature and its surrealistic qualities.

www.artmuseum.is

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Issue one

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107

*Admission January 2014 . Price is subject bj t tto change h

Reykjavik's Thermal Pools

Epic Rain, Jazzanova DJ’s, ADHD and many others. Musicians from Berlin will be presented in Reykjavik on 26-28 February and music from Reykjavik will be presented in Berlin on 5-7 March in cooperation with the Extreme Chill Festival.

Tickets and festival passes are for sale through midi.is & xjazz.net and at the door.

Hey

look!

What’s going on over here?

What: The Pulse of Time When: 17 January - 15 March Where: Kjarvalsstaðir, Reykjavík Einar Hákonarson’s career spans over 50 years and the works at this exhibition trace the evolution of his art. The theme of the show, “Pulse of Time” is also the title of one of his paintings, evoking the artist’s desire to keep his finger on the pulse of time.

www.artmuseum.is

Go to www.extremechillfestival.com or www.xjazzfestival.wordpress.com for more information.

What: Reykjavík X Berlin Festival When: 26-28 February Where: KEX Hostel and Húrra, Reykjavík XJAZZ Festival in Berlin has partnered up with Iceland! In 2014 Iceland was the partner country of the XJAZZ Festival in Berlin. This collaboration set the stage for an annual exchange between Reykja­ vik‘s and Berlin‘s music scenes. A lot of artists from both cities were already well connected and it was easy to arrange an amazing lineup including bands like Emiliana Torrini with Ensemble X from Berlin, Christ­ian Prommer, Stereo Hypnosis,

www.folkfestival.is

What: Reykjavík Blues Festival When: 28 March - 3 April Where: Reykjavík Iceland is full of surprises, especially when it comes to music. Believe it or not, blues does exist in Reykjavík and it’s alive and well, especially during the spring. As you may know blues is not only about music; it’s a state of mind, and you’ll simply get into the atmosphere while being in this town at the end of March and beginning of April. The Blues Festival has been a yearly gathering since 2003 where great local and international artists perform in a couple of venues in downtown Reykjavik, with Hilton Reykjavík Nordica Hotel as the main venue. Through the years the Blues Festival hosted many distinguished guests and it quickly became one of the brightest shining stars in the sky of Icelandic music festivals.

www.blues.is

What: Reykjavík Folk Festival When: 5-7 March Where: Reykjavík, Kex Hostel Are you into folk music? It just so happens that brilliant folk musicians from Iceland throw a three-day feast called Reykjavík Folk Festival in the beginning of March in the charming, intimate and cozy Kex Hostel,

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located in an old biscuit factory in downtown Reykjavík. Ready to go?

Then get ready to take a bite of Icelandic culture, a country proud of its long and rich history of folk music.

Organizers of the festival have put together a program with folk music of the more distant past and the folk and folk-influenced music that has been growing up in Iceland for the past decade or so. The diversity of the local folk music scene will be showcased with many amazing artists like the now famous Of Monsters and Men, Árstíðir and Ólöf Arnalds.

In this one weekend you can enjoy performances of numerous talented artists and bands representing different generations and various subgenres within this cornucopia of “folk.” Come hang out with the folk at Kex Hostel this weekend!

What: Stockfish European Film Festival in Reykjavík When: 19 February - 1 March Where: Bíó Paradís, Reykjavik and several other locations Memorable moments are waiting for you in the heart of Reykjavík between the 19th of February and the 1st March at the inaugural edition of Stockfish European Film Festival.

Find out why Iceland draws so many attractive and inspiring well-known actors and esteemed directors from around the world. Experience those creative vibes pulsating through the air of Iceland’s movie industry. You’re invited to take part in “Stockfish Festival” that will be hosted for the very first time mostly in Iceland’s one and only art-house theater, the wonderful Bíó Paradís. The festival was brought to life by 1991 Oscar-nominated director Friðrik Þór Friðriksson and is dedicated to showcasing local talents and promoting the film industry. Besides some interesting screenings you can attend an Icelandic screenwriter’s workshop and a works-in-progress presentation in the company of both famous international and local creative people and other significant guests from the movie business.

Put your fingers on the pulsebeat of Icelandic cinematography!

www.stockfishfestival.is

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Virgo

23 August - 22 September This month you’ll finally meet that special someone. Unfortunately you’re a Virgo so naturally you won’t give them the time of day. On the plus side, in ten years you’ll own 15 cats.

Libra

23 September - 23 October It’s all about balance this month for Libra.

Someone close will feel unwell, but they’ll feel much better as soon as you give them some space. Ouch.

Aries

21 March - 19 April Hey Aries, get your creative juices flowing this month. We mean literally. Have you tried Brennivín in cranberry juice? We call it Icemopolitan. Disgusting yet creative.

Taurus

20 April - 20 May This is an intervention! TV has taken over your life. Turn it off and step out into the real world. Reality is far messier than your soap operas anyways.

Gemini

21 May - 21 June Single? The world’s most eligible people are vacationing on planet Zorgmeister and won’t be back until the year 3012. Yup. Dating is a challenge. But you already knew that.

Cancer

22 June - 22 July Stop telling people they look better in their profile pictures than in real life. The truth hurts. P.S. Haircut trends have changed since the 80s, you know.

Leo

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Scorpio

24 October - 21 November For the last time Scorpio, it’s Careless Whisper, not Hairless Whisper! You might not be the sharpest tool in the shed, but at least you’re good looking.

Sagittarius

22 November - 21 December Tell the truth this month. You know what we mean. Tell that certain person that thing, about the thing. They’ll feel like crap, but you’ll feel great!

Capricorn

22 December - 19 January You’ll never be an astronaut, they said. You’ll never go to the moon, they said. But look at you now Capricorn! The moon is closer than you think.

Aquarius

20 January - 18 February Oh, Aquarius, why are you feeling blue?

You’re so lovely. With a little fine tuning on your personality you’ll be perfect. High five yourself!

23 July - 22 August

Pisces

Feeling left out, Leo? Smooth jazz to the rescue. Change your ringtone to some Kenny G and people will begin to show you the respect you deserve.

Lost you mojo? Don’t worry, we found it. Bad news, we’re keeping it. You win some, you lose some.

19 February - 20 March

Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsence. Any accuracies, real or imagined by readers, are purely incidental.

WOW Power to the people

Meet some of the world’s finest designers 72 ICELANDIC DESIGNERS

& FRITZ HANSEN, STELTON, ROSENDAHL, ERIK JORGENSEN, MARIMEKKO, KARTELL, JOSEPH JOSEPH & ALL THE OTHERS

Epal Harpa / Epal Skeifan 6 / Tel. +354 568 7733

www.epal.is

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WOW Sudoku But how do I do it?

Really, really bored? Here are a few sudokus to make time fly.

The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: Each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler?

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ICELANDIC GOURMET MENU Freshly caught seafood and free range lamb – with a modern twist

LUNCH

DINNER

ICELANDIC MINKE WHALE Shallot vinaigrette, crispy Jerusalem artichokes,

STARTS WITH A “REFRESHING“ SHOT OF THE NATIONAL SNAPS BRENNIVÍN

ICELANDIC PLAICE Samphire, green asparagus, blood orange, lime beurre blanc

ICELANDIC OCEAN PERCH Slow cooked ocean perch, beetroot purée, spicy butter, serrano ham, beetroot

RACK OF FREE RANGE ICELANDIC LAMB Lamb fillet, leeks, pickled onions, browned celeriac, baked carrots, spinach and dill cream

ICELANDIC MINKE WHALE Shallot vinaigrette, crispy Jerusalem artichokes

4 COURSE MENU

6 COURSE MENU

Dessert by pastry chef Axel Þ.

CHOCOLATE ROSE Chocolate mousse, raspberry gel, Sacher layer 4.990 kr.

ICELANDIC SEA TROUT Yuzu mayo, truffle mayo, crispy quinoa, apple ICELANDIC PLAICE Samphire, green asparagus, blood orange, lime beurre blanc RACK OF FREE RANGE ICELANDIC LAMB Lamb fillet, leeks, pickled onions, browned celeriac, baked carrots, spinach and dill cream Dessert by pastry chef Axel Þ.

CHOCOLATE ROSE Chocolate mousse, raspberry gel, Sacher layer 6.990 kr.

Apotek Restaurant is a new and exciting restaurant located in one of the most historical corners of Reykjavík in Austurstræti 16. The restaurant is casual-smart, offering delicious food in vibrant atmosphere and stylish surroundings.

APOTEK RESTAURANT

Austurstræti 16

101 Reykjavík

Tel: 551 0011

apotekrestaurant.is

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The Traveling Inquisition

Artist Odee and his exploits

by Dísa Bjarnadóttir Photos from private collection

Artist Odee (Oddur Eysteinn Friðriksson) is a thirty one year old who lives in the small town of Eskifjörður in the east of Iceland with his fiancé and their two year old son. Up until last year he worked full time in the alum­ inum plant in Reyðarfjörður but since his career as an artist—albeit a controversial one—kicked off, he’s had to reduce his day job to part-time. Odee was recently apprehended by the Traveling Inquisition who wanted to know how he did it

I

make collage art that is printed onto aluminum. I take pictures from here and there and put them to­­­­­­gether to make new artwork, my own art.

Sometimes it doesn’t sit well with people who say I’m in­­fring­­ing on their copyright, but the way I see it is if I’m making something new with it, it’s my art. I’ve actually gotten a few threats because of this. I started sell­­­­ing my artwork in May last year and since then it’s been going really well. I’ve sold hundreds of pictures.”

Q: We heard you’d sold to some famous people, is that true?

“Yeah, I sold one to Brian Muir. He de­­ sign­­ed the original Star Wars costum­­ es; the Darth Vader costumes and the storm troopers. A guy who lives here, in the east is in the Star Wars fan club and he got in touch with Brian and showed

him my picture and he wanted to buy it. Now it hangs above his desk. He’s told me since that he’d like to bring his wife here to Iceland. If he does I’d love to show him around.”

Q: What would you recommend?

“Get out of the city. See the nature; whet­­her it’s just a small trip to Gullfoss and Geysir or the Blue Lagoon, or even a drive somewhere further. It really doesn’t take very long at all to drive around this country. And there is so much to see; so much beauty. That’s what I do when I get visitors. I got the “Double Rainbow” guy to come to Ice­­ land [a star of a YouTube video where a man sees a double rainbow and is brought to tears]. We were so touched by how moved he was, we wanted to bring him here and show him the beauty of Iceland. We showed him Gullfoss, Geysir, Seljalandsfoss, Skógarfoss, Jökuls­árlón and a bunch of other plac­ es. His favorite was the beach at Vík í Mýrdal. He loved the black beaches and the cliffs. I hope that someday I’ll get to visit him in Yosemite Park where he lives.”

Q: What is your favorite place in Iceland?

“Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon. I always try to stop there if I’m traveling in the vicinity. It’s the colors on the ice formations and the colors in the water where the ice drips into it. It’s beautiful.”

Q: How about the city, what do you like to do when you come to Reykjavík?

“I love the Hamborgarafabrikkan. I go there whenever I’m in Akureyri or Reykja­­vik and get the BO burger. More

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“Get out of the city. See the nature; whet­­her it’s just a small trip to Gullfoss and Geysir or the Blue Lagoon, or even a drive somewhere further. It really doesn’t take very long at all to drive around this country. And there is so much to see; so much beauty. That’s what I do when I get visitors.”

importantly: I always go to TGI Friday’s no matter where I am in the world. I’ve been to a TGI Friday’s in Athens Greece and I even found a few in China.”

Q: What were you doing in China?

“It was a spontaneous trip actually, I was browsing online and saw a special offer and called my girl­­­ friend and she wanted to go. We took our two year old son with us and got engaged on the Great Wall!

It’s funny but since there are no social media in China I snuck into the bathroom at Kastrup airport in Denmark, took a picture of the ring and posted on Facebook that I was going to ask my girlfriend to marry me. We were there for a week and people were “liking” and commenting on my picture while she had no idea what was about to happen. We got a private driver to drive us around and we found a place on the wall where we could be alone. Just us, it was pretty surreal.”

FORGED BY SOME OF THE BEST ARTISANS IN SWITZERLAND, THE EYJAFJALLAJÖKULL EVO FOR MICHELSEN PAYS TRIBUTE TO MOTHER EARTH’S UNSTOPPABLE FORCES. THIS TIMEPIECE IS COMPOSED OF AUTHENTIC LAVA STONE FROM THE 2010 ICELANDIC ERUPTION AND IS EMBELLISHED WITH A HAND PAINTED VOLCANIC FISSURE IN COLD ENAMEL. LIMITED TO 9 PIECES. www.romainjerome.ch

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– Visit our stores: 101 Reyk jav í k , A k u rey r i a nd G eysi r, Hau k ada l. w w w.geysi r.com –