WOW magazine issue 1 2016

e azin mag Issue one 2016

Surfing on the edge of the earth

How do Icelanders Plus: 5 tips on survive how to the eat like darkest an Icelander months? y o u r f r e e c o p y -ta k e m e w i t h y o u

WHATEVER THE WEATHER...

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WOW Power to the people

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WOW Power to the people

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In this issue

Power to the people – Issue one 2016

10 A letter from the CEO 12 WOW Cyclothon The biggest ultra-cycling race in Iceland (and probably the world) is held in June each year. We took a look at the winners of the women’s B category of 2015.

T

he darkest days are behind us, even though it’s still pretty dark compared to the summertime. Each day is ca.

three minutes longer than the previous one and before you know it, it will be bright all day long. Right now Icelander’s are busy lightening up their winter days with festivals, art shows and other cultural events, and of course by eating loads of those famous rotten delicacies

18 The brightest festival in

the world Last summer we attended the youngest festival in Iceland, Secret Solstice, and here’s how it went down.

22 Party in the midnight sun Secret Solstice will return in Reykjavik in June and they’ve just announced some awesome headliners!

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Summer synergy in South Iceland

Iceland might not be famous for its

you’ve all heard about. And let’s not forget nature’s treasures in the winter season, like star filled skies, Northern Lights and those endless sunrises and stunning sunsets.

If you’re not on your way to Iceland for a vacation or a WOW Stopover we hope you are at least considering it for your next WOW air flight. We are insanely proud of our country and all it has to offer. As you know, changing airplanes in Keflavik does not count as a visit to Iceland.

Have a great trip.

surfing opportunities or big waves but if you’re armed with a thirst for adventures and ready to brave the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean, this is definitely the place to be.

30 Head of state Who wants to be the next president of Iceland and what does the job entail?

34 Iceland’s famed culinary delights The next time an Icelander tries to tempt you with pickled ram’s testicles, claiming it was the food that all Icelanders survived on, you’ll know better.

36 The best of the West There’s more to Iceland than the adventures to be had on the south coast. Go west for a change of scenery. West Iceland is actually one of the most exciting regions in the world to visit.

Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir, editor in chief magazine@wow.is

WOW magazine staff Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Design and layout: Ivan Burkni / ivanburkni@gmail.com Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman

U

wowair.com

Tel: 00 354 590 3020 E-mail: magazine@wow.is

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PRENTGRIPUR

Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit from publisher.

62 Iceland from above Enrico Pescantini shot some great photos of Lake Mývatn in Northeast Iceland last summer.

64 The Vatnajokull Region Filled with contrasts, the Vatnajökull Region is a great destination all year round.

Attention advertisers!

Will your company be in our next issue?

Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen.

He’s just that good!

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WOW Power to the people

68 The white palace Reykjavik has a famous “White House” but it’s not the presidential residence, it’s a hospital.

94 What’s brewing in Boston?

Beer lovers should definitely stop at this New England hub and check out Boston’s top brewery tours and some of its essential beers.

70 WOW design Further North is a home accessories brand designed by Auður Gná Ingvarsdóttir.

96 Frankfurt for fun WOW air has just added Frankfurt am Main to its network and it turns out Frankfurt is full of surprises.

72 The winds of change IceWind is a small Icelandic startup that has been developing wind turbines which might just save people a significant amount of money and help them become more sustainable.

98 You want more?

Check out the other destinations of WOW air. Where do you want to go?

78 Montreal – The wonders below Did you know that there are 32 kilo­ meters of tunnels above and below ground in Montreal? Montreal’s underground city, RÉSO, is ideal for shopping, sightseeing and escaping both the cold and the heat.

104 What’s going on? …quite a lot, actually.

80 7 Toronto must-see’s From boardwalks to beaches and bookshops to bistros, Canada’s largest city is also the trendiest when it comes to urban cultural activities.

82 48-hours in Bristol If you had only two days to spend in Bristol, what would you do?

84 14 tips for budget travelers in BerliN Berlin is known for being budget-friendly and here’s why.

86 A night out in the City of Angels It’s time to party among the stars and LA’s entertainment options are endless.

88 10 San Fran must do’s Now that affordable flights to San Francisco are on the horizon you might be wondering what to do once you get there.

90 5 ways to stay cozy in a Washington, D.C. winter There’s a bounty of cold-weather sanctuaries in D.C.

100 This and that …mainly this.

110 WOW horoscope What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed astrologist has the answer.

112 Bored on board?

Solve these sudokus.

114 The Traveling Inquisition Sigga Heimis is an Icelandic industrial designer who lives both in Iceland and Sweden and knows how to travel.

On the cover

Sometimes people travel to Iceland to do the things they love in new or extreme circumstances. On the cover is Anna Ehrgott making her way across Hofn Bay on a gorgeous summer day, preparing to take on the Icelandic surf.

The photo was shot by Chris Burkard who has made 19 trips to Iceland to take photos, usually around wintertime.

three2016 2015 Issue one

umhverfisvottuð prentsmiðja

ERFISME HV R M

KI

© WOW air Katrínartún 12 105 Reykjavík Iceland

92 A French road trip – Part II Flying to Paris can be just the beginning of a great adventure in France.

Issue one 2016

Surfing on tHe edge of the earth

Power to the PeoPle

Contributing writers: Marvin Lee Dupree, Svava Jónsdóttir, Gerður Harðardóttir, Einar Skúlason, Fjóla Helgadóttir, Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir, Cindy-Lou Dale, Judy Colbert, Michael Kew, berlinur.de and Krista Connor.

60 Akureyri – The heart of North IcelanD Akureyri, Iceland’s capital of the north, is a lively town with much to offer and a great base for exploring the natural wonders of North Iceland.

66 Take a hike Stroll around Hafnarfjörður, the town in the lava, just a short drive from Reykjavik’s city center.

WOW magazine magazine – – surFing The FOOd issue WOW On The edge OF The earTh

40 The U.S. Customs Declaration Form What is this? Why do I need to fill this out? And what happens if I answer yes to any of the questions?

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azine

Here’s to brighter days

16 Five tips on the authentic

Icelandic gastric experience Traditional Icelandic food has a bad rap but that’s not really what the everyday Icelanders are eating.

mag

A letter from the editor

How dO Plus: 5 tIps on Icelanders How to tHe eat like survive an icelander darkest mOnThs? y o u r f r e e c o p y -ta k e m e w i t h y o u

P.S. Would you like your very own copy of WOW magazine?

Take this one with you or contact us through magazine@wow.is and we’ll send you a printed copy.

You can also check out WOW magazine online at wowair.com.

Keeping Iceland warm since 1926

Shop at 66north.com Issue one 9

A letter from the CEO

Dear friends It is simply amazing to see “little” WOW continue to grow and prosper even beyond our wildest dreams. 2016 is off to a fantastic start with the launch of our Los Angeles and San Francisco routes operating brand new Airbus 330-300 as well as providing a further increase of flights to Boston, Washington, Montreal and Toronto. We are also very proud to offer the newest, environmentally friendliest and most fuel efficient fleet in Iceland. This summer we will have a total of 11 aircraft in our all Airbus fleet including brand new Airbus 321’s and 330’s.

Life at WOW air is not only work! We also pride ourselves in very active community engagement and are among other things the proud founding member of WOW Cyclothon, a relay cycling race of 1332 km around Iceland (see wowcyclothon.com). The race is very much in the same spirit as the incredible adventures hinted at on this issue’s cover which is simply WOW! With all the innovations, our team is expanding fast and this year there will be over 600 people at WOW air. It is a great privilege to be part of the WOW team and to continue to serve you, our dear guests, on our mission to enable everybody to travel.

All the best and look forward to seeing you on board one of our happy, purple planes in the near future.

Sincerely, Skúli Mogensen Founder and CEO of WOW air

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WOW Power to the people

Make a toast with Iceland’s no. 1 beer Pour a glass of the number one beer in the country, raise your glass to a friend and say “scowl fyrewr thyer!” You should fit right in.

Skál fyrir þér!

Enjoy responsibly Issue one 11

WOW Cyclothon

All women

– all class!

WOW Cyclothon is a relay bike race around Iceland held close to the summer solstice in June of each year. Last year’s race broke all previous records for a number of participants and made WOW Cyclothon one of the biggest ultra-cycling races in the world.

Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

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yclists competed in four cate­­­­ gori­es, from solo riders to four people teams and up to 10 people teams both of which could be all male, all female and mixed. The female com­­petition was especially fierce this year as the race has never seen such a high percentage of female participants, proving once and for all that cycling and competing is for everyone. Team HFR / Renault had a great race and was the first all women’s B category team to reach the finish line.

They all train with HFR and take part in competitive street racing and say that before the race they knew the strengths of their team as well as its weaknesses.

“We also had María Sæm­ unds­dóttir as our driver and this was her second victory in the race,” they say adding that being a driver for a WOW Cyclothon team can be even harder than being a cyclist as the drivers hold a lot of re­sponsibility.

Knowing your strength Team HFR / Renault was exceptionally well sponsored with two brand new Renault vehicles that took them around Iceland. The team was formed after someone asked the question, “Shouldn’t the HFR women have a team in WOW Cyclot­hon?” and so three HFR all women’s teams emerg­ed. “This just goes to show how many quality female cyclists there are in the club, the HFR wom­en winning both the A and B categories for all women teams,” the members of HFR / Renault say.

Six cyclists from the HFR / Renault team had participated in WOW Cyclothon before, all with winning A category female teams over the years.

Planning is key The members of HFR / Renault agree that training, especially for the race, was unnecessary but there were other things that needed their attention before hitting the Ring Road. “We were lucky to have Jórunn Jónsdóttir, the most powerful team leader ever. She saw to it that everything was in order before we started the race.” They also met be­­fore the race to make their race strategy.

“Margrét, our Excel genius, put together a plan for change­­­­­­overs, sleeping and vehicle arrangements; we had two cars so we had to have two drivers. This document was only a guideline of course, as there will always be surprises in a race like this where

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WOW Power to the people

“We were lucky to have Jórunn Jóns­ dóttir, the most powerful team lead­­er ever. She saw to it that every­­ thing was in order before we started the race.”

Issue one 13

“Being outside, cycling and having fun in the Icelandic nature, day or night, competing, enjoying life and spending over 40 hours in this great company, what could be more amazing than that?”

you have to change your plans and adapt, choosing the strongest cyclist for a particular situation. We wanted to go the whole distance together as one team so we didn’t split up into two groups like many B teams do in this race,” they say.

A great adventure The HFR / Renault team never publicly announced its plan to win the women’s B category but they all agree that it was their goal. “We were confident and not winning was never an option. We also had a time goal, we wanted to finish as close to 40 hours as possible. But of course, we also wanted to have fun and come home without injuries,” they say.

Speaking of injuries, did the HFR / Renault team have any problems during the race? “Problems?

You mean adventures! It was pretty smooth sailing actually and we came home with a lot of great memories. Our favorite one is when Guðbjörg sudd­ enly decided to start her modelling career and was going to pose on top of a road sign. Rather clumsily she fell off and then rolled down a hill causing several of us to pee ourselves laughing. We had to change our pants and everything!” They all agree that the atmosphere onboard their vehicles was great. “We were in great spirits the entire time and were ready to enjoy the race.”

Teamwork and competition HFR / Renault worked with mixed and all male teams from Advania, Sana, Síminn and later also with Team Landsbankinn. “We were personally in hard competition with Team Kría, another all wo­­men’s B category team. They beat us during the first changeover in Hvalfjörður so we had to put all our efforts into catching up with them. The race was on between us until after the Holtavörðuheiði

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WOW Power to the people

heath when we finally put a wide enough gap between us and we managed to keep them well behind us the rest of the race.”

“The teams we were working with never had a hard agreement about working together through­­ out the race so all of us had to keep on our toes and be ready for attacks. At the Öxi mountain road, the gaps between teams became wider but Guðbjörg put herself into mad gear and swooshed down Öxi to catch up. We caught up with Team Sana and Síminn in Berufjörður and with them drove up the pace to catch up with Team Advania and then Lands­­bankinn but by then Sana and Síminn got left behind. Despite this great teamwork all teams had to be wary and by Kleifarvatn, close to the finish line, Team Landsbankinn and Advania made an attack we weren’t quite ready for wanting to beat us to the finish line. We got left behind but still we reached

the finish line smiling from ear to ear, bliss­­fully happy after 42 hours and 45 minutes on the road.”

Will we see HFR / Renault again next year? “We are all about the competition and have already set our goal on improving our time.”

Members of the yellow HFR / Renault team agree that the whole trip was a blast. “Being outside, cycling and having fun in the Icelandic nature, day or night, competing, enjoying life and spending over 40 hours in this great company, what could be more amazing than that?” v Ride through the midnight sun in the most exceptional ultra-cycling race in the world, 1358 km around Iceland, June 15-17, 2016.

Registration has started at wowcyclothon.com. Follow the race on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram for more information and photos.

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Issue one 15

Eat like the locals

Five tips on the authentic Icelandic gastric experience

by Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir photos: iStockphotos.com

Let’s be honest. Icelandic tra­­di­­ti­­onal food has a bad rap and yes, what you’ve heard is mostly true. High­­lights include fermented shark and pickled ram’s testicles but we only eat that kind of stuff during Þorri Festival in February. So what do Icelanders really eat the other 11 months of the year? Here are some tips on getting a real taste for Iceland.

Hot dogs Icelandic hot dogs come with the following basic condiments: Ketchup, mustard, raw onion, fried onion and remoulade (a cold sauce made with mayonnaise and various condiments and herbs). Pick your own combo or ask for everything. It’s customary to give your hot dog vendor directions on where each condiment goes: “Ketchup underneath, mustard on top,” which is probably why some places now have selfservice stations for the condiments.

park by the sea or circle the downtown area and eat it while chatting with your pals.

Dried fish and singed sheep head Okay, so we lied. We do eat horrible sounding dishes all year round but some of them are actually very good. You’ll find dried fish (harðfiskur) in every grocery store and gas station around the country but be warned, this delicatessen of a snack is seriously pricey. Combine it with Icelandic butter and lots of it. It’s a great

Icelandic hot dogs come with the following basic condiments: Ketchup, mustard, raw onion, fried onion and remou­ lade (a cold sauce made with mayon­ naise and various condiments and herbs).

source of protein and obviously a very healthy snack. The singed sheep head is a little trickier because it’s really a singed and boiled head sawed in half like some terrifying prop from a horror movie. If you get over first impressions you’ll taste something very special and be transported to an ancient meat experience. Discover your inner Viking but stay clear of the tongue and eyeballs first time around.

They remain vivid reminders that you’re eating a face. Be brave and you will rule your Instagram network. v

Chocolate and liquorice sweets They come in all shapes and sizes but they are probably the most popular food product to leave the country in care packages. If you try it, make sure you have a “dealer” who will send you more supplies after you leave because you can easily get hooked.

Skyr and súrmjólk for breakfast You’ll find a ridiculous variety of these dairy products in all shops but go for the natural unsweetened ones and follow these directions: A big tablespoon of brown sugar in your bowl of súrmjólk and white sugar on your Skyr until it’s sweet enough. Don’t question us. Just do it.

Ice cream It’s not just a dessert—it’s entertainment.

It may sound ironic that Icelanders love ice cream since it’s almost never warm enough to justify putting frozen food inside your body but this isn’t just about the ice cream. Everyone has their favorite ice cream parlor and they are everywhere.

For this to be an authentic Icelandic experience you need to have a car and preferably stand in line for about 20 minutes until you get your ice cream which you then take out to your car and either

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WOW Power to the people

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Issue one 17

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WOW Power to the people

The brightest festival in the world

Secret Solstice One of Iceland’s youngest festivals, Secret Solstice is a music festival in Reykjavík, held on the weekend closest to the summer solstice. In 2015, it took place on June 19th - 21st after the most despicable winter I can remember so I was more than happy to sign up for the all-in summer experience in Laugardalur Valley.

By Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir Photos: Courtesy of Secret Solstice – Photographers: Siggeir Hafsteinsson, Ross Silcocks and Damien Gilbert

Laugardalur is a green valley right in the middle of Reykjavík that is used as a recreational area complete with competitive sporting venues (football, hand­ball, basketball, tennis, track, swimm­­ing, ice skating etc.), botanical gardens, a zoo and a campsite. For for­­ eigners, this is the perfect setup. You can travel to Iceland, camp in Reykjavík and spend the weekend listening to for­­eign and Icelandic music, partying as much as you want. Afterwards, you can travel around the country to experience the natural wonders the island is famous for.

The convenient “outdoor festival” For regular Icelanders, this is the most convenient “útihátíð” of the summer and it’s worth spending a few lines on what an útihátíð is and what they mean for the average Icelander. “Útihátíð” or outdoor festival is essentially just that, an outdoor festival but in Iceland an útihátíð is usually held in some obscure location in the countryside and where everybody and their grandmothers and little nephews are most welcome, almost like a glorious reunion where you feel related to everybody. This usually involves preparations like picking your most fashionable yet dispensable woolen sweater and some cleverly equipped raingear because it’s not really an útihátíð unless it rains, and of course, you’ll want handy pockets for your beers and hot dogs. It’s also not really an útihátíð unless you have a sing-along and French kiss somebody.

Yes, attending an útiháðíð is fun but often a lot of valuable time is spent in a car getting to said obscure location, so if you don’t want to be bothered with the whole hassle of camping in the country, an urban outdoor festival is definitely your best bet.

The perfect space for a concert The first Secret Solstice was held in 2014 and attracted some 8,000 visitors. The 2015 lineup featured over 150 artists and was attended by nearly 10,000 visitors. It looks like the two-year-old festival is here to stay and this is just the beginning.

The biggest names of 2015 were Wu Tang Clan, Kelis, The Wailers, Charles Bradley and a secret headliner which turned out to be Bustah Rhymes. The genres included hip hop and rap on the two big outdoors stages, dance music on the indoor stage and DJs in the smaller tents and bars as well as your traditional pop and electronic music.

One of the best things about Secret Solstice is the location and the layout of the space. The venue is comprised of one large green space with a skating rink on one side and a football field on the other.

The skating rink (minus the ice of course) serves as a brilliantly dark indoor stage with a huge dance floor for the ener­ getic and bleachers for the weary. The organizers managed to create an amazing atmosphere from a space that is usually occupied by rowdy children.

The large green area in the middle, hosts the largest stage but also includes Issue one 19

and had us dancing and laughing. What more could you want?

Wu Tang Clan was undeniably the biggest act this year and much anticipated. When they stepped out onto the stage on Sunday evening in wonderful weather, kids, teenagers and adults alike rejoiced, for some, it was their childhood revisited and their dreams coming true. Given the hype, the Clan might be forgiven for what felt like a disappointment but most agreed that theirs was one of the poorest performances of the weekend.

They never managed to take off. The crowd waited in anticipation for that authentic 90s feeling but it never really arrived. This flop, however, was nothing compared to the anti-climax of the secret headliner: Bustah Rhymes. He was 40 minutes late, pretty much the only real delay during the whole weekend and proceeded to shout out a lot of attitude mixed with horrible machine gun, sound-effects in-between. The mind wanders when waiting for a mysterious big name artist and you’d best deliver when it’s you, but he absolutely didn’t. That said, if anybody has to suck, Bustah Rhymes as a secret headliner is a great choice. Nobody had invested in him and it was easy to walk away seeing as there was plenty of talent on offer at arm’s length.

Secret Solstice is a festival that promises and delivers great music, a unique summer experience in the middle of the North Atlantic and super friendly and relaxed atmosphere and so far the festival seems to be favored by the weather gods.

a large tent with a bar and live music (DJs and smaller acts), and smaller tents where vendors sell food, beverages and clothing. You can even get your hair cut if you’re feeling unstylish. There’s also the VIP lounge, a raised hot tub so you can drink and watch your favorite headliner while bathing in hot water in your undies, and an amusement park drop tower. The open grass area has plenty of picnic tables with inventive seating and tables so the lazy loungers and socialites have plenty of places to do their thing.

The football field was covered with plastic tiles to protect the grass and included a smaller outdoor stage, two bar tents with live music, an inflatable human foosball table and more vendors selling food and party favors.

Party for all Each act performed for about 30 minutes so the experience resembled a tasting platter of music, which is what every good music festival should aspire to be. In my opinion, a music festival should aspire to do two things: 1) Offer a variety of good music in the genres promised and 2) Create an atmosphere and mood that your Spotify player can’t offer. Both points rely on good preparation on behalf of the organizers but the latter depends heavily on the weather and while the weather conditions around summer solstice should be amicable, Iceland’s weather can be capricious.

Secret Solstice is a festival that promises and delivers great music, a unique summer experience in the middle of the North Atlantic and super friendly and relaxed atmosphere and so far the festival seems to be favored by the weather gods.

So how did it go?

As far as the music was concerned there were many ups and some downs. It should be noted that I’m musically allergic to Reggae which makes the fact that I loved the Wailers a much more powerful endorsement to their abilities. Their act was an undeniably good mood setter and created a wonderful and amicable atmosphere for the rest of the night.

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WOW Power to the people

The same goes for Charles Bradley and Kelis, who really stood out for me. Kelis was accompanied by a DJ and the two of them kept up a great party atmosphere mixing golden oldies with some of her best numbers covering an impressive number of songs by just giving us the highlights.

Flight Facilities and MØ both delivered brilliant performances and left lasting impressions and Gus Gus and Hercules & Love Affair were as great as always, pumping up the guests, leaving them wanting more. These are all artists that are known to deliver and they clearly had their loyal fans in the crowd.

Icelandic rappers and hip hop artists really showed up and acts such as Úlfur Úlfur, Emmsjé Gauti and Gísli Pálmi showed why they’re all the rage in Iceland these days. The biggest surprise for me was Dj Flugvél og Geimskip (Dj Airplane and Space Ship). My companions had heard her stuff before but it was brand new to me and very exotic. She had me stuck in a trance trying to figure out if she was mentally ill or a genius or possibly both. She comes HIGHLY recommended, as she owned that tent from the first note

The thing no one ever mentions While we’re on the subject of things that should be flushed I was very impressed by the number of porta-potties and the areas around them. Being a girl at a big event is always problematic, especially if you dare to take a sip of something liquid during your 9-hour stay at a venue, which usually results in pleading with five other girls to let you cut ahead in the line. This time was different though and even though I realized I really had to pee as soon as Kelis sang her last note, along with everybody else in front of the big stage, I only had to wait in line for about 12 seconds.

In the end, the most remarkable thing about Secret Solstice is the timing and location. Summer solstice is a magical time and the folklore surrounding it with witchcraft and wonders makes sense when you’ve sat through a bright summer’s night. The sun does set but only for a couple of hours and since it only dips below the horizon, it really is daylight around the clock. It’s a magical time and characteristic of the Icelandic summer. It’s not great for sleeping but it’s perfect for everything else, especially outdoor music festivals.

Secret Solstice promises a great experience and something very different which was definitely a promise delivered in 2015 for both locals and their guests.

See you at Secret Solstice 2016!

AQUARACER CALIBRE 5

Cristiano Ronaldo is born to break all the records. His motivation is to win at every occasion to challenge the human statistics. Like TAG Heuer, Ronaldo surpasses the limits of his ďŹ eld and never cracks under pressure.

Issue one 21

Laugavegi 15 & Kringlunni - 511 1900 - www.michelsen.is

Party in the midnight sun

Secret Solstice returns for the third time in Reykjavik, Iceland It’s 2016 already and Secret Solstice will rock, pop and electro beat the city of Reykjavik around the summer solstice, from June 17-19, when the sun never really sets. Showcasing a varied mixture of local and international artists, the biggest headliners for 2016 are without a doubt newly announced Radiohead in addition to Icelandic Of Monsters and Men, Deftones from the USA and Jamie Jones from the UK. Other heavy hitters include Róisín Murphy (IE), Action Bronson (US), Apollonia (FR), Agent Fresco (IS), AmabAdamA (IS), Droog (US), Goldie (UK), Kerri Chandler (US), Skream (UK) and Visionquest (US).

Themed after the Old Norse religion and mythology Secret Solstice has all sorts of cool names for the stages and spaces within the festival area, such as Gimli, Valhalla and Hel, the giant indoor party venue that opens after the main stages close and is actually a skating rink – and while Hel isn’t frozen over it looks awesome!

On its own Secret Solstice is one of the most unique festivals in the world but the side venues - from geothermal secret lagoons to volcanic caves and ice tunn­­ els inside a glacier - are something else entirely. That’s right! In 2016 Secret Sol­­ stice is bringing back the glacier party and as far as we know it’s the only festival on

earth where you can fulfill your dream of dancing to music inside a glacier. In 2016 there will be two glacier parties and only 100 tickets are available for each one.

Secret Solstice is conveniently located smack down in the middle of Reykjavik, a stone’s throw from the downtown area with multiple hotels, restaurants and bars so finding accommodation close by won’t be a problem. If you’re on a budget, right next to the venue there’s a campsite and a geothermal swimming pool right next door.

This summer, let’s go together to this unique event bursting with great music in a great place. For more information on Secret Solstice, tickets and line-up, visit secretsolstice.is. v

Getting to Iceland is the easy part—book your own WOW air flight to Reykjavik from USA, Canada or Europe at wowair.com or better yet, get our friends at Gaman Travel to make you a package deal at www.gamantravel.is

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Issue one 23

Anna Ehrgott makes her way across Hofn Bay on a gorgeous summer day.

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Dusk to dawn to dusk

Summer, synergy in South Iceland July 2015: winter is miles behind. Summer gravity steers the drift of our American caravan, which includes two rock climbers; Chris Sharma and Paul Robinson, and two surfers; Chaddd Konig and Anna Ehrgott.

by Michael Kew Photos: Chris Burkard/Massif

Issue one 25

Chadd Konig and Anna Ehrgott take in the sunset after a solid session at Sandvik – one of Iceland’s gorgeous black sand bays.

E

hrgott and Konig are two pro­­­ fessi­­onal surfers from southern Cali­­­­­fornia, which, surf-wise, is quite different from south­­ern Ice­­land. Knowing this, but armed with a thirst for ad­­­venture, the two couldn’t say “yes” fast enough when photo­grapher Chris Burkard asked for their partici­­pa­tion in this trip along with two pro­­fessional rock climbers (also from southern California).

For both sports, Iceland is flawed, especially midsummer. The North Atlantic is never sure of itself. Clouds balloon and spit, wind scrubs the waves, rain greases the roads, but, photo­­­grap­hic­­­ally, Iceland is perfect: rainbowed water­­falls, steam­­­­­ing lava fields and icebergs melting into blacksand beaches.

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Surfing at 3 am In the matrix, we creep in the long shadows of delirium, dipping our neoprened hands, flexing our chalked fingertips.

Usually with more snow than shine, lensman Chris Burkard has visited Iceland a whopping 19 times, usually pointing his rented Land Rover north from Keflavík International, in winter, in volcanic freeze, in doomsday whiteouts.

“There’s no such thing as bad weather,” he once told me. “Just soft people and poor clothing.”

This time, after a restorative, post-flight surf near the air­­­port on the Reykjanes Peninsula, Burkard’s cerebral compass swung us south-by-southeast: on the Ring Road to Thorlakshofn, a valued port town,

“Everything seemed more epic backed by the volcanic peaks, which refuged the retreated snow in the ‘warm’ months.”

home of Iceland’s premier south coast point break, where we tickled waves, wee and baby-soft, at 3 am.

The preferred tool for catching and riding small surf, Ehrgott’s longboard was a boon.

“Mornings came too early,” she said, “but those small-wave days were illuminated by the golden sun, hovering on the horizon.

Everything seemed more epic backed by the volcanic peaks, which refuged the retreated snow in the ‘warm’ months.”

The edge of the earth Iceland broods at 65°N latitude, between Greenland and Norway, north of Shetland, south of Jan Mayen. It’s an active quadrant.

Sunny? Sometimes.

“It didn’t feel like the daylight ever came

There’s something magical about being able to surf alongside icebergs. Here’s Chadd Konig, soaking up the magic.

or went,” Ehrgott said. “The depths of our minds expanded and took the place of extern­al experience.”

Gravity sucked us in.

And driving—lots of that.

Past Thorlakshofn was the enchanted village of Vík í Mýrdal (“Bay of the Marshy Valley,” population 300), Iceland’s south­­ ern­­­most and rainiest outpost, home to hard-hitting beach breaks and the island’s most active swell window. Not a bad place to hang for a while. Nearby, a river fed ice to a gravel river mouth sandbar, offspring of eons of volcanic spew onto the youngest land on Earth (Iceland is constantly evolv­­ ing). Only thing missing was a wave­­train of surfable size— that is, unless you were one of Iceland’s elves, gnomes, or fairies.

“The landscape is deafening. Often, my mind was so utterly clear— no thoughts whatsoever, because the landscapes were so consuming.

They just take you. It’s rare that a place grips you so strongly that you can’t even make thoughts in your mind.”

“It felt like the edge of the earth,” Sharma said.

Vik actually is the edge of the earth until, if you head straight south, narrowly miss­­ ing West Africa and the South Sandwich Islands, you reach Antarctica’s Queen Maud Land. We didn’t do that.

Another planet Weekday 11 pm light revealed another punchy beach break near a 9th-century relic of sheep paddocks and cement cube homes on a desolate fringe. From afar it look­ed good—the cold north wind massag­ ing southern wind swell into something pretty.

Konig felt homely in Iceland, twisting his thin vegan frame into a thick Matuse

wetsuit to carve and jive on his alaia or canary-yellow 6’8” single-fin surfboards in low dawn hues of citrus. In the 10°C sea, he also bodysurfed.

Nobody bodysurfs in Iceland!

“The landscape is deafening. Often, my mind was so utterly clear—no thoughts whatsoever, because the landscapes were so consuming. They just take you. It’s rare that a place grips you so strongly that you can’t even make thoughts in your mind.

“Summer there is incredible because you can just keep going and going and going,” Konig said. “It never gets dark, which affords infinite potential for seeing the country. You enter this state of ‘twilight zone’—delirium and excitement. It doesn’t feel like Earth. You’re on another planet.”

Issue one 27

South Iceland: Cold water, hot surf A 1996 Surfer magazine trip to Iceland raised more than a few proverbial eyebrows in the surfing world, especially considering nobody had ever really thought this island nation smack-dab in the middle of the North Atlantic could produce some incredibly good waves.

Robert “Wingnut” Weaver, of Endless Summer II fame, was one of the trip’s participants.

“The surf was really fun,” Weaver said. “Good point breaks and reefs—even a bitchin’ sand river-mouth deal. Of course, it was cold, but one of the points stretched for more than three miles with the right swell—amazing! I would go back to Iceland in a heartbeat.”

Inspired by what they found, Weaver is sold on the concept of surf-trekking into the world’s icy peripheries.

Who needs white sand and palm tree hammocks?

“It will be at the cold places that the new discoveries will be made,” he said.

Wetsuits are better than ever. So good, in fact, that they have allowed waves to be ridden everywhere, from the Arctic to the Antarctic.

“Besides great wetsuits,” said former Surfer editor Steve Hawk, “with the growing number of surfers, there’s bound to be a lot more people looking at more interesting places based on their own personal travel needs. Some guys don’t mind camping out where it’s cold; but I know a lot of people who think the idea of going to Iceland to surf just sounds like the stupidest thing in the world.”

Chadd Konig part way through a lay back on an uncontested roller at Thorlakshofn.

The basics Home to some of the island’s most famous natural attractions, South Iceland is a volcanic wonderland of beaches, coves, and headlands, with a nearly infinite level of surfing potential.

When to go?

The south coast has surf year-round (it gets huge in winter), but the time to score manageable waves during relatively benign weather is in the early fall (September through October) and late spring (April through May). Summer, seen in these photos, offers the year’s smallest waves; fall offers the best weather combined with ideal surf size (bigger than head-high); spring has lots of waves but, like winter, can be quite erratic and stormy.

Hiking out to Hofn Bay is one of the most beautiful ways to start a surf session.

The mood You’d be hard-pressed to find a more uniquely hard-core surfing destination, one that receives swell from all angles most of the year, and one that offers waves for surfers of all abilities.

Huge barrels, slow mushburgers, clean waves, junky waves— Iceland has them all, and more. Surprisingly the key word really is variety; South Iceland is loaded with reefs, slabs, points, and even a bowling beach break or two. Although Iceland is probably a place you never considered going to surf, with today’s wetsuit technology, there’s no excuse.

Getting there Once you’re in Iceland, it’s mandatory to rent a car—the smaller the better due to the high price of gas. Roads on the south coast are very well-maintained, so it’s easy to get around. A bit of hiking is often required to reach the beach, especially if you want to find your own southern Icelandic secret surf spot.

What to bring?

There are no surf shops anywhere in Iceland, so bring everything. Depending on your trip’s timing and the size/type of waves you’re willing to surf, bring the appropriate boards— you can charge as hard as you want to in Iceland. You’ll need a hooded 6mm fullsuit (or thicker), thick booties, gloves, and extra-coldwater wax. Warm clothing is also required: down jackets, beanies, long underwear, hiking boots, rain gear… because even a warm day in Iceland ain’t that warm. v

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Clean conditions and gorgeous colors set the scene for Chadd Konig during another epic session in Iceland.

ICEWEAR offers an extensive collection of clothing for the outdoor

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from high-tech down jackets to unique wool products made in Iceland. We strive to offer colors and cuts in line with the latest trends, quality materials and competitive prices.

icelandic design since 1972 Issue one 29

W W W. I C E W E A R. I S

Head of state

Who wants to be the president of Iceland?

It has barely escaped the notice of most Westerners that 2016 is the year that America will elect a new president, and in the process usher in a post-Obama era.

Considering how interested the rest of the globe is in the elections in America, such a statement might not seem so ludicrous. Here in Iceland, the president might be a lesser luminary in the constellation of political constellations of the world; nonetheless, the soft power of this small island nation that also happens to be a member of the Arctic Circle, cannot be ignored.

by Marvin Lee Dupree Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

This year, Icelanders will vote in a new president after having had the same one for two decades. Iceland is be­­coming an increasingly significant component in the geopolitical chess game, just like it was in the Cold War era, so now, it’s probably a good time to gauge the scope of the political office: President of Iceland.

thus curtailing evident political biases since you represent the country as a unified whole. Of course this idealistic notion might reek of naivety since political cabals have attempted to steer the outcome for their own self-seeking purposes but in general, this office has always sailed clear of overwhelming political conflagration until recent years.

A comfy desk job Being president of Iceland is probably not the most stressful job in the world; the salary is decent, you get to travel around the world and you get to travel around Iceland, it doesn’t require much strenuous labor, plus it enables you the opportunity to hobnob with heads of state from other countries and Icelanders from all walks of life.

Frankly, you might think I am belittling the office, but nothing could be further from the truth. The epitome of the office cannot be defined more clearly than in the famous novel and film Englar Alheimsins (Angels of the Universe). In the novel, written by Einar Már Guðmundsson, the protagonist, Páll, descends into madness and has to be moved into a psychiatric ward. One of his fellow “inmates” is the character Óli Beatle (so named since, according to himself, he wrote all of the Beatles songs) who visits the president at his home at Bessastaðir and asks if he can be the next president of the country. To which this fictional president replies, “Yes, I think you would be a lovely president” and is full of warmth and understanding.

In its essence, being president of our small island nation entails the idea that you are a figurehead, who is meant to represent all Icelanders, not just some. It is an honor bestowed upon one individual;

The early figureheads Political machinations may not have been a dominant factor in the early history of this prestigious office but there have always been some ruminations of it. Being of solid provincial bourgeois stock, the first president of Iceland, Sveinn Björnsson, was a well-respected figure whose primary function was to give speeches. Besides this

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Iceland has long been known for its progressive stance toward achieving gender equality in the past decades and one of the milestones in this struggle was the election of Vigdís Finnbogadóttir, the first democratically elected female president in the world.

Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson, current president of Iceland, (far left) in Vilnius, Lithuania. Photo: iStockphoto.com / Birute Vijeikiene

Bessastaðir, the official residence of the President of Iceland.

he shaped the office into what it is today.

And while his position was purported to be impartial his election was far from contentious with misgivings on the part of both the Independent Party and the socialists. Björnsson is revered as an important figure in the young nation’s history despite the ever-present long shadow Björnsson’s progeny cast on his reputation. Björnsson was president from the founding of the republic in 1944 until his passing away in 1952.

The first elections and the next two presidents In 1952, elections were held for the first time as Björnsson had died in office, and he had always been voted in automatically.

During the campaign of the second president candidates, political fault lines became ever more apparent. On the 29th of June 1952, the conservative

paper Morgunblaðið ran a front-page endorsement for their own candidate, the late bishop Bjarni Jónsson, who in the own words of the paper was best suited to unite this small and divided nation.

However, the second president of this young republic was chosen with a mandate of close to 47% of the electoral vote. This candidate was Ásgeir Ásgeirsson, the former leader of the Progressive Party.

This victory was a bitter pill for the Independent Party to swallow, especially because one of its crown princes, Gunnar Thoroddsen gave his allegiance to Ásgeirsson, his father in law. Many say that Thoroddsen was never forgiven and that his “betrayal” cost him his ascendancy within the party—ruining his chances to become the third president of the republic when he did eventually run.

Apparently, soap operas were an art form in Iceland way before any television channels became readily available. Instead of Thoroddsen becoming president, Kristján Eldjárn was elected.

Alas, Thoroddsen would reciprocate for the knife in his back in later years, but that is another story. Eldjárn is remembered with great fondness and he also happens to have had a hand in shaping the modern incarnation of the Þorri festivals or the midwinter fest because when he was curator of the Icelandic National Museum, Eldjárn suggested to Halldór Gröndal, the owner of Naustið Restaurant that he serve the Þorri food in wooden troughs with

brennivín; and needless to say, this idea caught on and is now a tradition. As a politically non-affiliated candidate, Eldjárn helped shape the expectations that the nation had for its presidents: likable, not blatantly politically affiliated and a cultural ambassador.

Vigdís Iceland has long been known for its progressive stance toward achieving gender equality in the past decades and one of the milestones in this struggle was the election of Vigdís Finnbogadóttir, the first democratically elected female president in the world. While the Argentinian Isabel Perón is technically the first one, she was not voted in democratically since she only succeeded her notorious husband Juan.

Vigdís is also the president that almost every single individual in Iceland agrees was an excellent president and who was Issue one 31

president from 1980 until 1996, almost uncontested if you don’t count the seemingly hopeless candidacies of the eccentrics who ran against her. In an interview she gave to the newspaper Vísir, Finnbogadóttir espoused the sentiment that “The president should in a certain manner reflect the person the nation considers itself—a picture the majority of the nation can accept.” Evidently, she succeded in this since Iceland prides it­ self on its cosmopolitanism, concern and respect for nature as well as the strong belief in gender equality, all dispositions she embodied.

The chameleon Although the Icelandic presidency has first and foremost been a ceremonial position, the presidential elections of 1996 seem to cause febrile convulsions among a certain portion of the population due to the eventual victory of the current president of Iceland, Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson. Mr. Grímsson unequivocally is considered the most controversial and political figure to ever reside in the office; a fact that both detractors and fans can reach a political consensus on.

A cursory explanation goes as follows: Before entering the office, Grímsson was a career politician, and a highly con­ troversial one at that. As a politician, he once belonged to the Progressive Party before jumping ship to the People’s Alliance, a now defunct party whose mem­bers mainly merged into the Social Democrat and Left Green Parties. For those of us that belong to the Millennial Generation, we have scant memories of Ólafur Ragnar as a politician. Most, myself included, have one poignant memory of him in the New Year’s Eve’s Ridicule of 1989 in the guise of Batman or—Skatt­ mann (the Tax-Man).

Let’s get political After his electoral win in 1996, most poli­­tical opponents ceded defeat and most misgivings or gripes were aired in private. Admittedly, Mr. Grímsson did receive opposition as an incumbent from the campaign of Ástþór Magnússon who campaigned on the platform of Peace 2000, in which the idea was to utilize the office for peace and goodwill. Not only did Magnússon run in 2004 but he also gave it a shot in subsequent years but failed to even manage to get on the ballot in 2012.

Apparently he’s announced that he will try again this year.

Basically, Grímsson’s stay in office can be split into three eras: the almost near decade of no political interference from 1996 to 2004 when the media law debate arose, to the grandest era of them all: the Icesave era from October 2008.

To be brief, Grímsson vetoed the media law crafted by the government of former Prime Minister Davíð Oddson, and in doing so utilized his power, according to the 26th article of Iceland’s constitution, to call for a referendum on the law. Needless to say, Grímsson’s presidency became

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even less palatable to supporters of the government of that time and supporters of the former government voiced their dislike by the apparent vast percentage of absentee votes, voter turnout was a paltry 63% during his re-election in 2004.

Some voices even floated the idea of a constitutional amendment to diminish the powers of the office.

Madame Vigdís Finnbogadóttir, the first democratically elected female head of state and one of the most popular presidents in Icelandic history. Photo: Courtesy of the Office of the President of Iceland

Potential candidate Andri Snær Magnason, writer and environmental activist is amongst the Icelanders who have been encouraged to run for president.

Ice – Ice baby Yet perhaps the most pivotal moment in Grímsson’s presidency was his refusal to sign into law the proposed Icesave agreement the Social Democratic and Left Green ruling coalition parties tried to finalize after the financial crash.

Grímsson’s refusal to sign led to the Icesave referendum where the badass Vikings of Iceland raised their middle digits to Dutch and British bank custom­­ ers duped into high-interest returns on their money by Icelandic bankers (many of them now in prison).

Although Grímsson was highly lauded for this decision, his re-election in 2012 will often be marred by the political attacks that seem to have arisen from his sup­porters. In 2012, Þóra Arnórsdóttir a well-known media personality ran against Grímsson and received unwarrant­ed attacks for among other things being pregnant. Arnórsdóttir polled a respecta­­ ble one-third of the electoral vote, thus causing a scare in Grímsson’s camp. The smear campaign launched against her, along with Grímsson’s recent populism and stance towards the refugee crisis have reeked of nativism and both issues may be permanent blights on an other­­ wise intriguing presidency that was keen on soft power, renewable energy and other important matters.

A return to form?

Grímsson was quite unlike his prede­ cess­­ors and it is unlikely that the current candi­­dates for the office will invoke the same irascible passion from the popu­lace. Current names that are being floated around include former minister of education and current leader of the Left Green Party, Katrín Jakobsdóttir, and the environmental activist and writer Andri Snær Magnason who was interviewed by WOW magazine last year. Other names include animal activist and entrepreneur Linda Pétursdóttir, who won the Miss World contest in 1988, and Stéfan Jón Hafstein, a well-known Social Democrat member, writer and current county director for the Icelandic International Development Agency in Uganda. So far 5 people, besides Ástþór Magnússon, have actually thrown their hats in the ring. Two are known writers, Elísabet Jökulsdóttir and Þorgrímur Þráinsson, one is a 76 year old artist Árni Björn Guðjónsson, and another is Hildur Þórðardóttir, healer, writer and ethnologist. Sturla Jónsson, a truck driver and a self-claimed spokes­ man for the vested interests of indebt home­­owners also says he’s running for the coveted office. v

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Issue one 33 grayline.is

Great balls of fire … and ice

Iceland’s famed culinary delights One of the more iconic characters of the Simpsons show is Groundskeeper Willie who is frequently mocked for his provincial ways, that is to say for being a Scotsman, and in one of the more hilarious moments of the series Willie shouts: “Get your haggis right here! Chopped heart and lungs boiled in a wee sheep’s stomach! Tastes as good as it sounds!”

by Marvin Lee Dupree photo: iStockphotos.com / Ben Harding

I

f you visit Iceland, you will proba­­ bly have heard of the astonishing “haute cuisine” known under the deceitfully innocent sounding moniker: Þorramatur or Þorri (Thorri) food. Essentially this variety of tra­­ditional Icelandic food makes even haggis seem palatable. Getting foreigners to taste Þorri food, some of which looks like rotten meat in an even fouler looking gelatinous after­­thought ill suitable for human con­­sumption, actually is a national pastime for many Icelanders.

Delicacies for the islanders But the next time an Icelander tries to tempt you with pickled ram’s

testicles, you can always challenge his or her claim that this was food that all Icelanders survived on due to destitution, cold and isolation. In fact, most of the famous culinary books for commoners make no or little mention of these “delicacies” at least outside of northern Iceland; go figure.

While it does not appear to be as ubiquitous as some people claim, still there are numerous accounts of the testicles being used for dog food and the skin to create small items, for example, a tobacco pouch. But, no doubt, there were times when many Icelanders did survive by eating whey pickled blood or liver sausages,

singed sheep heads and dried fish since scarcity was normal and people had to plan for the entire year.

A pagan month If you remember the fable of the ant and grasshopper, you might remember the moral of the story, which was to prepare for unseen events and make sure you have food during the winter. This last part was crucial in Iceland since food often started to run dangerously low in some households during the month of “Þorri” —mid-January to midFebruary on to­­day’s calendar. This also explains the mean­­ing of a famous Icelandic proverb which essentially

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translates to: “Surviving the Þorri.”

English personification of winter or Þorri always officially starts on a Old Man Winter and there are anec­­ Friday, and the first day of Þorri is dotes of men dressing up as Þorri called “Husband’s Day” or “Bónda­­ and a women dressing up as Góa, dagur” in Icelandic. The last day which is the month that comes after of Þorri is four weeks later, on a Þorri. As with many other things, Saturday and it’s called Þorraþræll despite Iceland’s Christianization, (Þorri’s slave). the pagan nature of Icelanders could Many people argue that the religi­­ never truly be stomped out and there ous aspect of the month is con­­ are mentions of regional societies nect­­ed to the god Þór, thus a part of having midwinter festivals or Þorra­­ Iceland’s pagan past and that the blót, with the first “official” one being name Þorri is derived from the name held in Akureyri, the so-called north­­ Þór, especially since there was also a ern capital of Iceland. sacrificial element to the pagan ritual Interestingly enough the term of the Þorri festivals as “Þorramatur” (Þorri Getting foreigners to farmers tried to secure food) first appears in themselves good for­­tune taste Þorri food, some of print in 1958 when during the hard month of which looks like rotten the pro­­prietor of the meat in an even fouler Þorri from the gods. restaurant Naustið looking gelatinous after­­ offer­­ed this food to the thought ill suitable for Dear Mister Þorri public in troughs and human con­­sumption, However, the it became fashionable actually is a national etymological roots of to feast on fermented pastime for many the word ‘þorri’ still shark, singed sheep Icelanders. seem to be de­­bated; heads, pickled ram nonetheless, scholars seem to testicles and other assorted pickled attribute it to the Iceland adjective “treats,” while more standard and “þurr” meaning: dry. On top of all of palatable fare for some includes dried that the concept of “Þorrablót” (Þorri fish, rye bread and smoked lamb. festival) seems mired in confusion If this all sounds quite exciting to but many attribute it to a mysterious you, make sure you ask for Þorra­­ figure that was worshipped in the matur that has been treated in whey, past and is called “Þorri.” not vinegar otherwise it is not the This Þorri is com­parable to the genuine traditional product. v

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Issue one 35

Go west!

The best of the West Iceland has seen a spectacular influx of tourists in the last few years, so much so, that it looks like accommodations in Iceland are nearly sold out for this summer.

While most tourists head towards the south part of Iceland, touring the Golden Circle to see Thingvellir, Gullfoss and Geysir or stopping by the Blue Lagoon to bathe in its warm geothermal silica-rich waters, West Iceland has sailed relatively unnoticed under-the-radar as a possible travel destination. It’s safe to say all that is about to change now that West Iceland has been placed on the Lonely Planet’s list of the 10 most exciting regions in the world to visit in 2016.

Text: Gerður Harðardóttir Photos: iStockphoto.com and courtesy of West.is

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Borgarnes. Photo: iStockphoto.com / I_Longworth

WOW Power to the people

Issue one 37

W

est Iceland is the home of Iceland’s highest water­fall Glymur (198 m) and also to a man-made ice tunnel that takes you into the core of Europe’s second largest glacier Langjökull and, according to Jules Verne, the entrance to the center of the earth at Snæfellsjökull Glacier, the undisputed crowning glory of the rugged Snæfellsnes Peninsula. This diverse part of Iceland sustains amazing bird and wildlife, embodies a rich cultural heritage that includes endless stories of elves, trolls and ghosts, has sweeping beaches ideal for horseback riding and stretches out with flowing fields of lava that go for miles on end. Its proximity

sculptor Páll Guðmundsson, renowned for his sculptures of faces which he cuts into rocks he finds around the area and his one of a kind stone idiophone which he’s played joined by the well-known Icelandic pop-rock band Sigur Rós.

On the way to and from Húsafell, you will pass Hraunfossar, a stunning series of waterfalls and rapids that stream over approximately 900 meters of steep lava ledges, sitting on the banks of Hvítá River. This place is particularly pretty when the autumn colors are out in full force, complementing the river’s turquoise waters. A vantage point by the car park, close to the river bank, offers a fantastic view over the waterfalls and Hvítá River.

Hraunfossar. (Jón Hilmarsson Photography)

to Keflavik Airport and Iceland’s capital Reykjavík and an excellent road system make the West Iceland a convenient travel destination. With a fantastic lineup of compelling scenery, a plethora of natural wonders and major opportunities for a variety of fun and exciting activities, it’s safe to say you are in for lots of un­for­ gettable travel experiences.

Borgarnes The small town of Borgarnes and the surrounding region is the setting for some of the most dramatic Icelandic sag­as of the Viking age, such as Laxdæla and Egils Saga. The Settlement Center (Landnámsetrið - www.landnam.is) in Borgar­nes brings to life in two per­ ma­­nent exhibitions, the story of the settle­­ment of Iceland which took place between 870 to 930 and the saga of Egill Skallagrímsson, a warrior/poet thought to be a descendant of a werewolf (which might explain some of his, let’s say, rather unusual antics and belligerent temperament). The Settlement Center also has a superb restaurant—one of the best in the area.

Húsafell Húsafell is a popular tourist destination with its large campsite, swimming pool, golf course and its recently opened Hótel Húsafell (hotelhusafell.com).

Húsa­fell is ideally located as a takeoff point for short visits to some of the most interesting tourist attractions in the region. Húsafell is also the home of

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Víðgelmir Cave For those intrigued by caving and not prone to claustrophobia, a visit to Víð­gelmir Cave in Hallmundarhraun Lava field, not far from Hraunfossar Waterfalls, should be on the to-do list when visiting the region. At 148,000 cubic meters and 1,585 meters long, the Víðgelmir lava tube is not only one of the longest and most spacious caves in Iceland but also one of the largest lava caves in the world. Víðgelmir, with its abundance of beautiful stalactites, stalagmites and ice formations is heralded as one of the world’s most exceptional caves. In 1993 human re­ mains, artifacts and jewelry from the Viking age were discovered in the cave and are today preserved at the National Museum in Reykjavík. Víðgelmir should only be visited accompanied by an experienced guide. Contact Hörður at thecave.is.

Reykholt For a window on Icelandic history, visit Reykholt, one of the most important historical places in Iceland. In the middle ages, Reykholt was the home of Snorri Sturluson, a famous poet, states­man, scholar and historian who is thought to have documented Egils Saga.

Snorrastofa, Reykholt’s cultural research center, attracts scholars from all over the world who come to study records of the Old Norse language and mythology of medieval Iceland, including a 1599 edition of Snorri’s Heimskringla which

You will find a wide range of accommodations available throughout West Iceland, from camping sites and host­els, modest farm accom­mo­dations and cottage rentals, to luxury hotels. In our next issue, we’ll tell you more about West Iceland, namely the magnificent Snæfellsnes Peninsula and what to see there.

chronicles the sagas of the Norse kings.

Reykholt’s modern church is also worth a visit. The acoustics are truly amazing.

A direct translation of the name Reykholt would be “Smoke Hill” and usually when Icelanders name an area smoke-something it means there is hot water to be found there. Around 5 km from Reykholt, you’ll find Deilda­­tungu­­ hver Geyser, Europe’s largest and most powerful hot spring. Look out for the “take-and-pay” stand where you can pick up a bag of fresh tomatoes, grown on site in one of the areas many greenhouses.

Langjökull Glacier Langjökull Glacier is the second largest glacier in Europe, with Vatna­ jökull Glacier in the south of Iceland being the largest. Its rec­ently opened ice tunnel (intotheglacier.is) gives a new meaning to the world of glacier exploring. Inside the tunnel you get a unique chance to learn about Langjökull Glacier, glacial exploration, research and the dangers of global warming as you walk along the tunnel, occasionally crossing bridges over huge ice crevasses in the glacier. If you have a flair for the unusual, the tunnel’s Ice Chapel can be the ideal location for your destination wedding ceremony.

Perfect for a day trip or more Although a day trip from Reykjavík is an easy option, we highly recommend that you allow yourself more time to explore this truly amazing region. You will find a wide range of accommodations available throughout West Iceland, from camping sites and hostels, modest farm accommodations and cottage rentals, to luxury hotels.

In our next issue, we’ll tell you more about West Iceland, namely the magnificent Snæfellsnes Peninsula and what to see there.

If you are keen to experience West Iceland to the max, there is no way better than to visit the website visitthelocals.is. The website offers a fantastic opportunity to meet people living in the region and to be personally introduced to the very best in the culture, nature and activities that West Iceland has to offer.

Driving in Iceland can create challenges due to tricky weather and road conditions. Before you set off, if you’re planning on a self-drive tour, for tips on driving here we suggest visiting: www.visiticeland.com/ plan-your-trip/getting-around/driving-in-iceland. v For more info and general inquiries visit west.is

Geothermal springs near Reykholt. Photo: iStockphoto.com / IHervas

Go into the Glacier. Photo: Skarphéðinn Þráinsson

Issue one 39

rm

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom

This Space For Official Use Only

U.S. Cu

Customs Declaration

FORM APPROVED OMB NO.1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110, 148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

What is this and why do I need to fill this out?

Before you arrive in the U.S., you will need to fill out the US Customs Declaration Form. If you‘re traveling with your family only the head of the family needs to fill out the form. When you arrive on US soil you will hand this form to the U.S. Customs agent.

If you’re traveling with fruits we recommend disposing of them before or during your flight to the U.S. but what happens if you answer yes to any of the questions? It’s not as terrible as you might think and being truthful will save you a lot of trouble and a fine of up to $300. See page 42 for more information on answering YES.

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required).

The term "family" is defined as "members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption."

1 Family Name First (Given) 2 Birth date

MAGNUSSON HAKON Month 0 2

VALUR Year 8 0 2

Middle Day

1 7

3 Number of Family members traveling with you 4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination)

BOSTON HARBOR HOTEL 70 ROWES WHARF (c) State MA BOSTON Passport issued by (country) ICELAND Passport number A0182382 Country of Residence ICELAND FRANCE ~ SPAIN Countries visited on this (b) City

5 6 7 8

trip prior to U.S. arrival

9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name

Français Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Qu’est-ce que c’est et pourquoi dois-je en remplir un ?

FR: Avant votre arrivée aux États-Unis, vous devrez remplir le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine. Si vous voyagez avec votre famille, seul le chef de famille doit le remplir. Lorsque vous arrivez sur le sol américain, vous donnez ce formulaire aux autorités douanières américaines.

Si vous voyagez avec des fruits, nous vous recommandons de les jeter avant ou pendant votre vol vers les États-Unis mais que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « oui » à l’une de ces questions ? Ce n’est pas aussi terrible que ça en a l’air et dire la vérité vous évitera pas mal d’ennuis et une amende pouvant aller jusqu’à 300 $. Consultez la page 42 pour obtenir plus d’informations si vous répondez « OUI ».

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WOW Power to the people

WW-125

10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

Pour remplir ce formulaire, utilisez uniquement des majuscules. Si vous faites une erreur, notre personnel vous donnera un nouveau formulaire.

Chaque voyageur entrant ou chef de famille entrant doit fournir les informations suivantes (UNE SEULE déclaration par famille) 1. Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom.

No

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects:

Yes

No

(b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products:

Yes

No

(c) disease agents, cell cultures, snails:

Yes

No

(d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture:

Yes

No

12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock: Yes

No

x x x x x

Yes

No

x

Yes

No

x

(such as touching or handling) 13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent: (see definition of monetary instruments on reverse) 14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise:

4.

(a) Adresse Aux États-Unis (Destination ou nom de l‘hôtel) (b) Ville (c) Etat

5. Lieu de délivrace du passeport (nom du pays) 6. Numéro de passeport 7. Pays de résidence

The tran the amo States m of both) Custom Moneta bearer i bonds. instrum file the carrying instrum prosecu YOU H MADE A

Descrip

(List may

(articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders,

2. Date de naissance Jour/Mois/Année.

3. Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous.

x

Yes

11 I am (We are) bringing

U.S. Cu United officers persona examina dignified Represe are ava Importa U.S. Re are Visitors rem Declare do Duty—C en the of ab Agricul ag Fru bir de Cu Wi su Contro genera

or goods that are not considered personal effects)

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else but not items mailed to $ the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is: VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is:

$

0 0

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare.

I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

X

Hákon Valur Magnússon

Signature

01/26/2016

Date (month/day/year)

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

PAPERW sponsor informati number this app commen Border P Washing

8. Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l‘arrivée aux aux Etats-Unis 9. Ligne aérienne / numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau 10. Vous vouages our raison d‘affaires: OUI/NON 11. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de (a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes: OUI/NON (b) viandes, animoux, produits provenant d‘animaux ou d‘animoux sauvages: OUI/NON (c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots: OUI/NON (d) terre. J‘ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis: OUI/NON 12. J‘ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail: OUI/NON 13. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d‘espèces ou d‘instruments monétaires d‘une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d‘instruments monétaire au verso) á plus de 10 000$ US: OUI/NON 14. Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstration ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels): OUI/NON 15. Résidents - la valeur totale des biens, y compris la marchandise commerciale, que j’ai/nous avons achetés ou acquis à l’étranger (y compris les cadeaux pour une autre personne, mais pas les articles envoyés aux États-Unis) et que je/ nous rapportons aux États-Unis est de : montant en USD Visiteurs - La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis, y compris la marchandise commerciale est de : USD Signez sur la ligne pour déclarer que votre déclaration est véridique.

Deutsch Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Was ist das und warum muss ich dieses Formular ausfüllen?

GER: Vor der Ankunft in den USA müssen Sie das Formular der US-Zollerklärung ausfüllen. Wenn Sie mit Ihrer Familie unterwegs sind, braucht nur das Familienoberhaupt dieses Formular ausfüllen.

Wenn Sie US-Boden betreten, übergeben Sie dieses Formular dem US-Zoll.

Wenn Sie auf Ihrer Reise Obst mit sich führen, empfehlen wir Ihnen, dies vor oder während dem Flug in die USA zu entsorgen. Aber was geschieht, wenn Sie eine dieser Fragen mit Ja beantworten? Das ist nicht so schrecklich, wie Sie vielleicht denken, und Ehrlichkeit spart Ihnen eine Menge Ärger und eine mögliche Geldstrafe von bis zu 300$. Siehe Seite 42 für weitere Informationen zur Antwort JA.

Bitte verwenden Sie beim Ausfüllen dieses Formulars nur Großbuchstaben. Falls Sie einen Fehler machen wird Ihnen unsere Crew ein neues Formular geben.

Jeder ankommende Reisende bzw. jedes verantwortliche Familienmitglied muss die folgenden Angaben machen (es ist pro Familie nur EINE schriftliche Erklärung erforderlich) 1. Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname 2. Geburtsdatum / Tag/Monat/Jahr 3. Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder 4.

(a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels/Reiseziel) (b) Stadt (c) Staat

11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten: JA/NEIN (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte: JA/NEIN (c) Krakheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken: JA/NEIN (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/einer Ranch/Weide: JA/NEIN 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit): JA/NEIN 13. Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit (Siehe die Definition von Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN 14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN 15. US-Bürger - der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschließlich Handelswaren die ich/wir erworben habe(n) oder im Ausland erworben habe(n) (einschließlich Geschenke für andere, nicht aber Sendungen in die USA) und in die USA einführe(n) lautet: Betrag in US-$ Besucher - der Gesamtwert aller Artikel einschließlich Handelswaren, die in den USA verbleiben ist: $ Auf der Linie unterschreiben, um zu erklären, dass Sie eine wahrheitsgemäße Erklärung abgeben.

5. Pass ausgestellt von (Land) 6. Passnummer 7. Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land) 8. Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA 9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes 10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich: JA/NEIN Issue one 41

aration Form

s Decl The U.S. Custom

What happens if you say “YES”?

Sometimes we just want to avoid trouble and think that saying NO to everything will make things easier. That’s not the case and in fact, it can even cause more problems, delays and even fines. Be truthful on your Customs Declaration form and all will be good. Worst case scenario they’ll confiscate your banana but we promise you can buy a new one once you’re out of the airport.

Yes to 11 (a), (b) or (c) Your customs officer will refer you to an agricultural specialist who will ask you additional questions and might ask to inspect your food items. In many cases, you’ll be allowed to take your food with you. This often depends on where you got the food and how it’s been processed. Fruits, vegetables and raw meats are usually confiscated. You can research ahead of time at canibringit.com which is a U.S. Government run site.

Yes to 11 (d) and/or no. 12: An agricultural specialist will ask to inspect the soil or clothes, shoes or luggage that has been in contact with livestock or farm soil to determine if they contain any dangerous organisms. If they find potentially dangerous substances they will disinfect your items before allowing you to bring them in. For bringing soil into the US, you need a permit.

Yes to no. 13 or 14: If you are carrying currency worth over $10,000 you will simply be given a special form to fill out for the Treasury Department.

For items intended for sale, you should have already filed a “formal entry” before embarking on your journey. You could do so “on the spot” but these matters are subject to many rules and regulations and can be complicated.

Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « OUI » ?

Certaines personnes semblent penser que répondre « non » à toutes les réponses leur évitera des ennuis. Ce n’est pas le cas et en fait, cela peut même vous causer plus de problèmes, des retards et des amendes. Dites la vérité sur votre formulaire de déclaration en douane et tout ira bien. Dans le pire des cas, ils confisqueront votre banane mais promis, vous pourrez en acheter une nouvelle à votre arrivée à l’aéroport.

Oui aux questions 11 (a), (b) ou (c) Votre agent douanier vous dirigera vers un spécialiste agricole qui vous posera des questions supplémentaires et qui pourra inspecter vos fruits. Dans de nombreux cas, vous sera autorisé à garder votre nourriture. Cela dépend souvent de la provenance la nourriture et de la façon dont elle a été transformée. Les fruits, les légumes et la viande crue sont généralement confisqués. Vous pouvez faire

42

WOW Power to the people

des recherches avant de partir sur le site canibright. com qui est un site du gouvernement américain.

Oui aux questions 11 (d) et/ou 12 : Un spécialiste agricole inspectera la terre ou les vêtements, les chaussures ou les bagages qui ont été en contact avec du bétail ou le sol d’une ferme pour déterminer la présence d’organismes dangereux.

S’il trouve des substances potentiellement dangereuses, il désinfectera vos objets avant de vous laisser les garder. Pour importer de la terre aux États-Unis, il vous faut un permis.

Oui aux questions 13 ou 14 : Si vous transportez des devises d’une valeur supérieure à 10 000 $, vous devrez simplement remplir un formulaire spécial pour le ministère des finances.

Pour les objets destinés à être vendus, vous devriez déjà avoir rempli un « formulaire d’entrée officielle » avant de prendre votre vol. Vous pouvez faire cela sur place mais ce genre de chose est soumis à de nombreuses règles et règlementations et peut être compliqué.

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Was passiert, wenn Sie JA sagen?

Einige Leute nehmen an, dass sie keinerlei Ärger bekommen, wenn sie überall NEIN sagen. Das ist nicht so. Tatsächlich kann dies sogar mehr Probleme, Verzögerungen und sogar Geldbußen verursachen. Seien Sie bei Ihrer Zollerklärung ehrlich, und alles wird gut. Im schlimmsten Fall konfisziert man Ihre Banane, aber wir versprechen Ihnen, dass Sie sich eine neue kaufen können, sobald Sie den Flughafen verlassen haben.

Ja zu 11 (a), (b) oder (c) Ihr Zollbeamter wird Sie an einen Spezialisten für landwirtschaftliche Produkte weiterverweisen, der Ihnen zusätzliche Fragen stellen wird und evtl. darum bittet, Ihre Lebensmittel inspizieren zu dürfen. In vielen Fällen wird man Ihnen erlauben, Ihr Essen mitzunehmen. Oft hängt es davon ab, wo Sie die Lebensmittel erworben haben und wie sie verarbeitet wurden. Obst, Gemüse und rohes Fleisch werden in der Regel beschlagnahmt. Sie können vor Abflug auf der Website der US-Regierung canibringit.com nachlesen, was erlaubt ist.

Ja bei 11 (d) und/oder Nr. 12: Ein Spezialist für landwirtschaftliche Produkte wird Sie darum bitten, die Erde oder die Kleidung, Schuhe oder das Gepäck inspizieren zu dürfen, welche(s) in Kontakt mit Tieren oder landwirtschaftlichem Boden war, um zu bestimmen, ob diese gefährliche Organismen enthalten. Wenn er potenziell gefährliche Stoffe findet, werden Ihre Gegenstände desinfiziert, bevor Sie die Erlaubnis erhalten, diese einzuführen. Für das Einführen von Erde in die USA benötigen Sie eine Genehmigung.

Ja bei Nr. 13 oder 14: Wenn Sie Bargeld im Wert von mehr als $10.000 mit sich führen, erhalten Sie einfach ein besonderes Formular, das Sie für das US Finanzministerium ausfüllen müssen.

Für Gegenstände, die für den Verkauf vorgesehen sind, sollten Sie bereits vor Ihrer Abreise eine „formelle Einfuhrgenehmigung“ einholen. Sie tun könnten dies auch „vor Ort“ erledigen, aber diese Vorgänge unterliegen vielen Regeln und können sehr kompliziert sein. v

ENNEMM / SÍA / NM69061

Spectacular Whale Exhibition

ÐU R

REYKJAVÍK HARBOUR

SK FI

GR AN

HARPA

ATA

AN

AU ST

MÝRARG

ÁN

“Wonderful one of a kind museum!”

Loved this museum with its life-sized models of 23 different species of whales!

Interesting and informative exhibits, well worth a visit! The staff was friendly and helpful, and we loved the gift shop, too.

ISL ÓÐ

Come and see full-scale models of the 23 whale species that have been found off Iceland’s coastal waters. Walk amongst life-size models, check out the interactive media and explore these majestic creatures in our family-friendly exhibition.

DA GA R

Walk Amongst the Giants

We are here

WELCOME TO OUR CAFÉ | GET A SOUVENIR IN OUR GIFT SHOP | BOOK A WHALE WATCHING TOUR Fiskislóð 23-25 | Reykjavík | Tel. +354 571 0077 | Open every day 10 am – 5 pm | www.whalesoficeland.is

Issue one 43

Promotion

The Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20 a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: info@lebowskibar.is www.lebowskibar.is

Lebowski Bar

The Reykjavik venue that rocks!

From the entrepreneurs that brought you Café Oliver and Vega­mot, comes Lebowski Bar. You can take a quick guess where the name and inspiration comes from and even if you didn’t like the infamous 1998 movie we are cert­ain you will love this bar.

J

ust walking into this retro American bar puts a smile on your face and the mood is very 1960’s. You can hang out at the old fashioned porch and imagine you are in a real action movie. They don’t make bars like that anymore … oh wait they do, this one! Four big screens adorn the walls, so it’s also a great place to hang out when there are big events and sporting high­lights to be seen. And there’s also an “outside” area deco­­rated in a zappy Miami­-sunshine yellow that will cheer even the dullest of days.

Dine and jive Lebowski Bar really captures the diner style with cosy booths and a fabulous jukebox containing over 1,600 songs guaranteed to get those hips

swaying. If that’s not enough there’s a DJ on every night of the week so you won’t feel the pressure of select­ing all the music by yourself. The menus are the biggest in Iceland … no literally! Their phy­­sical dimensions are huge! Doesn’t everyone say that size really does matter?

Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarn­aise sauce option and succulent beef ten­ der­loin. If that’s not enough, choose from one of the 12 kinds of milkshakes to go with it.

to a new level, offering an astounding 18 varieties of White Russian, along with an extensive bar list.

Bowling at the bar

“Careful man, there’s a beverage here!”

The real icing on the Le­bowski cake, however, is the bar’s gen­u­­ine bowling lane – it’s a classic. How many bars have a bowling lane? In Iceland, not many, unless you count the bars at actual bowling alleys that certainly don’t have the cool vibe of Le­ bowski Bar. DJs and a bass player add to the music mix at weekends and there’s room to dance. Check it out dudes, you’re guaranteed a good time.

Jeffrey ‘the Dude’ Lebowski, the protagonist of the Coen brot­­her’s comedy, is renowned for his penchant for ‘White Russ­ians’ – vodka based cock­­ tails featuring coffee liqueurs and cream or milk.

The Lebowski Bar has taken this now-iconic drink

“Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarn­aise sauce option and succulent beef ten­der­loin.”

Lebowski Bar is my favorite place to hang out at. I love grabbing a good beer, a burger & topping it with a delicious milkshake.

Lebowski Bar plays oldies music which mak­­es the vibe like none other in Reykjavik.

They also have happy hour from 4-7pm and who doesn’t love that!

Bottom line, Lebowski Bar is a great main­stream bar where you can meet fellow travel­ers and have a drink with locals. Practice the word ‘SKÁL’ (Cheers) ~ Inga,@TinyIceland (www.tinyiceland.com)

FIND IT ON FACEBOOK and Twitter Twitter: @LebowskiBar - Instagram: #LebowskiBar - Open 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat

44

WOW Power to the people

Promotion

Bar Ananas & SmakkBarinn Klapparstigur 38 101 Reykjavik E-mail: bookings@barco.is Tel: +354 774 4 404

A taste of summer Whatever the season, you can count on it being summer at Bar Ananas and just to make things even more interesting, they’re now offering a brand new tapas experience in a cozy establishment downstairs called SmakkBarinn.

F

eel the beach in the snow! Or at least have a little flashback while drinking cocktails with pineapple. Yup, it’s a beach bar in Iceland! A tropical theme designed to conquer over the cold winter. How COOL… WARM! is that? So when you don’t feel like doing that northern lights tour or going with all the other tourists into the Blue Lagoon, you can always check out the happy hour at Bar Ananas. Drink some cocktails and have the sur­­ roundings constantly reminding you of warm weather and the beach. Unique in Iceland because nobody thought it would work – well, they’ve all been proven wrong. Bar Ananas is a popular spot on the Reykjavik night­­life scene with cool DJ’s all the time. Below is a restaurant called SmakkBarinn which serves Icelandic tapas. You can even order from them and eat it at the beach. No reason to give up a good tan!

SmakkBarinn A cozy place in the heart of Reykjavík, SmakkBarinn and Bar Ananas are just a short walk from Laugavegur, Reykjavik’s main shopping street. SmakkBarinn offers tapas in jars and it’s all Icelandic with many cool combinations of food to try out. For the sake of variety, their menu changes all the time. Eating at SmakkBarinn is one thrill after another; you can taste everything on the menu without having to sell your car. All their tapas dishes are presented in jars perfect both for dining out and also just for getting a snack with some friends and still come out happy you didn’t spend a fortune on a whole meal. The next best part is the beer… Oh yeah! You can taste that too in jars. Whatever you decide to do in Iceland, you might want to try out some Icelandic tapas and party the night away at Iceland’s all season beach bar.

SmakkBarinn offers tapas in jars and it’s all Icelandic with many cool combinations of food to try out. For the sake of variety, their menu changes all the time. Eating at SmakkBarinn is one thrill after another; you can taste everything on the menu without having to sell your car.

You’ll find both Bar Ananas and SmakkBarinn on Facebook Issue one 45

Promotion

The English Pub Austurstræti 12 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 0400 Mobile: +354 697 9003 www.enskibarinn.is

Save water, drink beer!

For years, Iceland has enjoyed a diverse selection of restaurants and often sophisticated bars. However, one tiny grumble occasionally surfaced from the country’s Anglophiles – simply that there was no proper “pub”.

A

nd so the English Pub was born.

From modest beginnings it has built a hearty reputation, seeking out, with the advice and guidance of its de­­­di­­­cat­­ed cust­omers, the finest ale available to mankind. Today it offers its enthusiastic cli­­­entele the chance to sample 50 beers from around the world, as well as a stagg­­­er­­ ing 15 Icelandic brands.

Whisky galore Not content to rest on its laurels, the English Pub has ventured north of its virtual border and also offers the finest selection of whiskies anywhere in the country. The choice of some 60 malts include many of Scotland’s finest, ensuring that

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WOW Power to the people

numerous Ice­­landers and worldly travelers make the pil­­­grim­­age to the pub’s humble door. Located at the very heart of down­­town Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photographs – like an album of the city’s history just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.

at­­mos­­­­phere and for anyone feeling lucky, there is the Wheel of Fortune. Regulars like nothing more than to spin the wheel and chance a “Sorry” or pre­­­fer­­ably win what used to be call­­ed a Yard of Ale. These days, it’s ine­vitably known as a meter of beer, but the winners don’t seem to min

A sporting chance Live sporting coverage is amply catered for, with a choice of three big screens and TVs. In­­side the pub there is room for up to 150 people, and an out­­­door terrace can accommodate plenty more on those balmy Ice­­landic evenings! Whether it is foot­­ball (Premier and Champions League), rugby or golf, there are always special offers when live events are being broadcast. Live music every night adds to the

“Located at the very heart of down­­town Reykjavik, the walls of the English Pub are adorned with hundreds of photo­­­ graphs – like an album of the city’s hist­­ory just waiting to be explored over a quiet beer.”

Promotion

Vegamót Vegamótastíg 4 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 3040 email: vegamot@vegamot .is www.vegamot .is

Very nice Vegamót

The all-in-one restaurant This elegant but casual two floor restaurant is located in the heart of Reykja­vík on Vega­­mótastígur, close to Lauga­­­­vegur.

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he restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonder­ful quality of being an all-in-one, rest­aurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave!

Here the decor is rich on the Medi­­­terr­­ anean side and yet elegant with a jazzy ambiance.

In the summertime tables are moved outside to the shelt­er­ed terrace, probably one of the hottest

places in Iceland during those short summer months. This place is famous for their ‘fresh fish of the day’, served all day from lunch hours. It has very rea­­sonable prices for quality, portions and presenta­ tion and guests can choose from a wide variety of decadent dess­erts – if they make it that far.

Try their excellent selection of good beers. Every day there is a special offer on bottled beers worth a taste.

“The restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonder­ful quality of being an all-in-one, rest­aurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave!”

Issue one 47

Promotion

Hressingarskálinn Austurstræti 20 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 561 2240 facebook.com/hressingarskalinn

Coffee house, restaurant & night club Hressingarskálinn is a warm place with plenty of seating and a great loca­­tion in down­ town Reykjavik. It’s one of the few places that open at 9 AM to serve breakfast for hungry travelers or locals. Hressingarskálinn is a big part of Reykja­vík’s history; the house was built in 1802 and the restaurant was established in 1932. The house has hosted Hress­ingarskálinn since 1932.

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itting down for a coffee has a magnetic effect on Iceland’s most talented art­­­ ists and writers. Smokers can have a seat on a heated patio with service all day. Over the summer, this place really comes alive. The yard is completely sheltered from the wind, allowing you to enjoy food and beverages in the bright sunlight. Thursday to Sunday is usually packed with people from all over

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the world. It’s a great place to meet strangers for some interesting story sharing. Live bands play on Fridays and Sat­urdays, guaranteeing a crowd before all the popular DJ’s hit the floor with party tunes from 01:00-04:30 AM. The menu consists of great selections and offers everything from breakfast to a fantastic dinner. Hressingarskálinn offers Icelandic food for curious visitors. You can always try the traditional Icelandic meat soup. If

not, there’s lamb or the fish stew – You won’t be disappointed. Hress­­­ingar­­­skálinn is stylish and old at the same time, a history well preserved.

Check out Hress­­­ingar­skálinn for great prices and awesome fun!

“The menu consists of great sel­­ect­­ions and offers every­thing from breakfast to a fantastic dinner.”

Promotion

Sakebarinn Laugavegur 2 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 777 3311 www.facebook.com/Sakebarinn

The one and only choice for Sushi & Sticks …so you can check it off your bucket list Located in a loft on Laugavegur, the main shopping street, in one of Iceland’s old­est buildings (1886) is a great new restaurant with a great view and an amazing at­mosphere called Sakebarinn. In its beautiful location, surrounded by windows that look down on Austurstræti, (an extension of Laugavegur leading to the Old Town) and up Skólavörðustígur (known for its cafés, local boutiques and art shops with native works), Sakebarinn lies in the very heart of downtown Reykjavík. In the winter you can see the Northern Lights from the balcony and in the summer, the amazing summer sunsets over the harbor.

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he owners of Sakebarinn have a keen interest for the arts and crafts and a wealth of creative assets to play with.

Although Sake­­barinn has a strong foundation in pure Japanese cuisine the current style of the restaurant proves that the owners are not afraid to break some of the rules. To them sushi is meant to be an art form.

Along with its handcrafted sushi, Sakebarinn also offers a sel­­ection of sticks and other meat cours­­es, featuring whale and horse and anything that’s fresh and interesting that day. Why live on an island in the middle of the Atlantic if you’re not going take advantage of the natural fauna? Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and with a little some­­thing for

everyone. There’s love on every plate – You will feel it with each taste.

It’s no accident that the place is named Sake­­bar­­ inn. It does feature the country’s largest sel­­ection of sake and a shot before a meal can truly enhance the feel of real Japanese dining. It comes in a sur­­prising range of flavors too, everything from really girly fruit sake to the fire spewing alcohol con­­tent of some of the more butch types; potato sake, warm and cold sake and Japanese plum wine. And then of course are the bottles that didn’t make it on to the menu because no one could read the labels and therefore no one knows what they are. Mystery sake! Sakebarinn is a place born to show­­case the talents the staff have collected over the years work­­ing at their first Sushi restau­­rant call­­ed Sushibarinn, which is located on the first

floor in the same house. A year and a wild ride later, this sushi family has in­­corporated a bunch of new and talented people with some great new recipes and skills they didn’t know they had and didn’t even know existed. The walls are hand painted by them, the wine selected by them, the menu is designed by them and the place is loved by them. They also love to present food so their clients become part of their love for sushi.

The look on your face is what they are aiming for, the look of enjoyment.

“Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and a little some­­thing for everyone.”

Sakebarinn Opening hours: Mon-Sun 5:00 PM – 00:00 Issue one 49

Promotion

Tíu dropar Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes Laugavegur 27 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 9380

Tíu dropar / Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes Tíu dropar (Ten Drops) is a café located in the cellar of Lauga­veg­ur 27. This is one of the oldest cafés in Iceland and for the last 30 years to this very day they serve freshly baked pancakes and waffles á la the grandmothers of Iceland, with lots of whipped cream and Icelandic jam.

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en Drops is also known for its home­­ made cakes, baked from scratch ac­­cord­ing to old re­­­cip­­­es, and of course, their hot cocoa, known by many of their guests as ‘The Only Real Hot Cocoa on Earth’. If you’re not in the mood for old fashioned Icelandic good­ies you can choose from an assortment of light dishes, tea, wines and beer.

We recommend the French meat soup, a pop­­ular dish and another old favorite.

Where did the café go?

Don’t be surprised if you can’t find the café after 18:00. Some­­thing happens around that time that trans­­­­forms this little cellar into a French wine room known as Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes or the Castle of the Ten Drops. This is a lovely place to sit and enjoy good win­­es along with cheese, ham or

other light dishes for as little as 500 ISK a plate, and don’t worry, the coffee, co­coa and pancakes are still there! Lovely French music sets the mood and the ambiance is perfect for a deep conversation.

Guests want­­­ing to break out in song can have their turn after 22:00 on the weekends, as long as they can find some­­one to play the antique piano given to the café’s owner, David Bensow, by a regular.

Choose your wine Guests can have their say on the wine list of Le Cha­te­aux des Dix Gouttes and David will make special orders to fulfill their wish­es. In fact, he wel­­comes any sug­gestions making the wine list one of the more, well-endowed in Reykjavík. He’s especially interested in serving good Port to his clientele.

Check out the ten drops twitt­er feed and find both café and wine room on Facebook.

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Intimate climate The little wine room and café seat only 40 guests and the mood is set in the early evening. It’s safe to say this is just the kind of place that was missing from the brimm­­­ing Icelandic bar and café scene - a perfect sett­ing for a small group of friends to reminisce over the good old days or for a first date.

Be sure to taste David’s “wine of the week” or let his fair beer prices amaze you.

“Don’t be surprised if you can’t find the café after 18:00. Some­­thing happens around that time that trans­­forms this little cellar into a French wine room known as Le Chateaux Des dix Gouttes or the Castle of the Ten Drops.”

Promotion

Kol Restaurant Skólavörðustígur 40 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 7474 www. kolrestaurant .is

Cocktails and feel good food at Kol Restaurant Be prepared for a memorable night out at Kol Restaurant.

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ituated at Skólavörðustígur 40 in Reykja­­­­­­vík, Kol Restaurant’s design con­­­­­cept is a mixture of warm modern Icelandic feel with international touc­­ h­­es and the furniture of designer Tom Dixon playing the central role. The rest­­­­­­­­aur­­ant is on two floors with an open kitchen and a mighty bar. Both floors are divided into spac­­ es with cozy leather couches and a variety of diff­­­er­­ ent table settings. Kol Restaurant centers on the bar where the country’s best cocktail bar­­tenders

serve craft cocktails from the best ingredients available and offer an ambitious cocktail list to begin and complete the dining experience.

The selection is feel good comfort food with a twist on classic cuisine. The menu offers a variety of finger food, salads, fish, steaks and dess­­ erts. The head chefs, Einar Hjaltason and Kári Þor­­­­­steinsson, have over 20 years of ex­­­perience at Reykjavik’s best restaurants as well as work ex­­­perience in several known restaurants in London, for example Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons, Dabbous,

Noma, 28/50 and Texture. Don’t miss out on this brand new gem on the Reykjavik restaurant scene.

This is a great place to begin a fun evening.

“Kol Restaurant cent­­ers on the bar where the coun­try’s best cock­­tail bar­­tend­­ers serve craft cocktails from the best in­­ gredi­ents available and offer an ambi­­ tious cocktail list to begin and com­­plete the dining exper­­ience.”

Kol Restaurant Open: Monday-Friday 11:30-23:00 / Saturday-Sunday 17:30-23:00 Issue one 51

Promotion

Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is

When in Iceland, go Danish!

You know that Iceland used to be a Danish colony, right? Even though inde­­pend­ence from the Danish Crown was necessary, Icelanders still celebrate every­thing Danish, so don’t expect to meet a big Danish crowd at The Danish Pub, they are all Icelanders just act­ing like they’re Danish. Really!

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his bar has made a name for itself in the Reykjavik social scene and is known locally as Den Danske Kro (we all just want a reason to speak Danish in public). This popular downtown venue serves a remarkable selection of beers in­cluding the famous Danish white beers, the darker more malt brews and of course the tra­­ditional and almost obligatory Tuborg and Carls­­ berg. If you come during the Christmas sea­­son you can taste some of the renowned Christ­­­mas brews, very popular in demand. Just ask for Julebryg (“you-le-bree”).

within the pub – an off-the­-wall design in its most literal sense!

Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some darts, try the custom­ary Gammel Dansk bitt­ers or catch some live football. Watch the world go by on the outside terrace and have a taste of the tra­­ ditional smørre­brød (fantastic open sand­­­wiches).

You can pre-order these delicious snacks for larger groups.

Does this sound too tranquil?

Do as the Danes do

The Danish Pub is nothing if not a place to party.

The at­­mos­­phere is easy going and you can choose from a variety of shots and even cocktails if you’re not in the mood for a beer (Does that ever happen?).

The owners of the Danish Pub strive to create the true Danish atmos­phere known among the Danes (and Danish-prone Ice­­landers) as “hyggeligt”. If you truly are Danish this can be your “home away from home”. And in this spirit, check out the “house”

Reminder: If you thought you were in for a quiet night guess again, The Danish Pub features live music every night with special appearances and unad­­vertised happenings on Wednesdays, Fridays

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and Saturdays. Put your musical knowledge to the test at the Wednesday night pop-quiz; the prizes will surprise you.

Best local pub in Reykjavík Wherever you‘re from you’ll want to have a great time while vis­iting Reykjavík. The people of Reykja­ vík do anyway, so they flock to The Danish Pub for a beer “en øl” dur­­ing the Happy Hour every day from 16-19. The place is crowded and you’re guaran­­teed to meet some fun, “lee glaath” people.

“Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some darts, try the custom­ary Gammel Dansk bitt­ers or catch some live football. Watch the world go by on the outside terrace and have a taste of the traditional smørre­brød (fantastic open sandwiches).”

Promotion

Kaldi Bar Laugavegur 20 b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.facebook.com/KaldiBarCafe

A breath of fresh air

Cool as Kaldi Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars.

An oasis in central Reykjavík.

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t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos­­­phere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, there’s a great outside seating area in a cozy backyard. Known for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottl­es, Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew.

Drop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local.

“Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos­­­phere in a rustic setting.”

Opening Hours Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 noon - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 noon - very late / Price list Beer on draft 0.5 – 1,100 IKR Glass of vine – 1,200 IKR / Happy hour 16:00-19:00 / Beer on draft 0.5 – 650 IKR / Glass of vine – 650 IKR Issue one 53

Promotion

Kopar Restaurant Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant .is / info@koparrestaurant .is

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor Kopar Restaurant is situated by Reykjavik‘s romantic harbor, in one of the old green fisherman‘s huts.

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he fishing industry still thrives in Reykja­­­ vik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the morning, fishermen go out to sea and return later with their catch of the day.

As you stand on the pier you can feel the history of Reykjavik and watch the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and young kids with their rods trying their luck off the pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere of the old harbor is all part of the experience when

you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans.

They are especially proud of their crab soup, made with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the fruit of the ocean.

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She pre­­­ pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, in­­tent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere, delicious food and the best view in town. When visiting Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is a must.

“Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She prepares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.”

Kopar Restaurant

Opening hours - Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 - Fridays from 11:30-23:30 - Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 - Sundays from 18:00-22:30 54

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Promotion

American Bar Austurstræti 8-10 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 571 9999 Mobile: +354 697 9003 Find us on Facebook/AmericanBarIceland

American Bar American Bar captures the American spirit; land of the free, home of the brave with a unique selection of beer and a simple yet delicious menu. American Bar is a must-visit when in Reykjavik.

Beer selection second to none With more than 50 different kinds of beer you are sure to find the beer that suits your taste. There’s beer made in the Hawaiian Islands as well as beer made from the famous Icelandic water.

Location and experience Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

Live music, live sport and the Wheel of Fortune Live music every night brings the right atmosphere and if you want to shake it up a bit you can hit the

dance floor on weekends and dance into the crazy Reykjavik night. If you are feeling lucky you can always spin the Wheel of Fortune.

Must see that game in the English PL or the Champions League? You will be well taken care of at the American Bar. HD-screens and TVs in every corner make sure that you won’t miss one second of your favorite sport.

is simple, yet delicious. The hamburgers, ribs and chicken wings are well-known to the locals for being unique and tasty.

Lunch or dinner, live music or dancing, beer or cocktails; the American Bar has it all and is truly worth the visit!

Life is short—Drink early!

Inside and out—all day long With more than 100 seats inside and a great outdoor area on the sunny side (for those wonderful sunny Icelandic summer days) you will always find a seat at a good table. The outside area is truly remarkable, overlooking Dómkirkjan Cathedral and Alþingi (Parliament House). When you think of central Reykjavik this is it! The menu

Located at the heart of Reykjavik, American Bar is easy to find. Once inside you’ll feel at home right away, especially if you’re an American; with decorations like football helmets (find your favorite team) and the American flag.

American Bar Open: Mondays to Thursday from 11:00 am - 1:00 am - Fri - Sat: 11:00 am - 4:30 am - Sun: 11:00 am - 1:00 am

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LOFTIÐ // Austurstræti 9 // Second floor facebook.com/loftidbar Issue one 57

Promotion

Reykjavik Fish Trygg vagata 8 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 5656 Email: info@reykjavikfish.is www.reykjavikfish.is

Reykjavik Fish In the heart of Reykjavík, right next to the old harbor, you can find Reykjavík Fish, a new restaurant offering ultra-fresh seafood. Ultra-fresh means that the fish you order today was swimming last night.

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he menu at Reykjavik Fish is structured to provide hearty portions of quality sea food at very reasonable prices. The crown jewel of the menu is the spelt battered fish and chips; crispy and healthy at the same time, a perfect meal with a nice Icelandic beer.

If you’re up for something a little more traditional Icelandic try the “Plokkari” (plucked fish). Their

Reykjavik Fish Open from 11 AM to 10:30 PM

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recipe is the same as used in the old days except with fresh fish of course.

Perfect location and Icelandic seafood at its finest. Reykjavik Fish has plenty of seats and wel­comes everyone, solo travelers and big groups alike. When you come to Reykjavík and would like to try a nice fish and chips just look for the big red door.

Perfect location and Icelandic seafood at its finest. Reykjavik Fish has plenty of seats and wel­comes everyone, solo travelers and big groups alike. When you come to Reykjavík and would like to try a nice fish and chips just look for the big red door.

Issue one 59

Akureyri

Take it easy in North Iceland If you ask an Icelander which is the most beautiful town in Iceland, a very likely answer is Akureyri. The town is nestled between steep mountains in Iceland’s longest fjord. It is a popular holiday spot during summer and Icelanders flock there for skiing during winter. The ski resort at Mt. Hlíðarfjall is considered one of the very finest in Iceland and is gaining more and more popularity with skiers from abroad.

Photos: visitakureyri.is

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kureyri is a small town with only 18,500 inhabitants. To get lost in Akur­­­eyri is nearly impossible and you really don’t need a car to get around town. More and more people rely on bicycles as a means of transportation, appropriate in a town where recycling and green energy is the motto for the future. If you prefer, it’s also good to know that the bus service within Akureyri is free for all.

Naturally, every common form of transport is available for rent in town: car, bike, boat, horse and even airplanes. Every type of accommodation is also on hand, from campsites to 4-star hotels.

Take it easy Akureyri has a relaxed atmosphere and in various places, you can see some lovely signs telling you to take it easy. A great example of this are the heart shaped red traffic lights. If you‘re in your car, feeling a bit stressful, take a close look and think of nice things while waiting for the light to turn green.

Akureyri offers a broad selection of muse­­ ums, art galleries, international exhi­­­­­bitions, conference facilities, music venu­­es, theater and cinemas showing the lat­­est films. The Hof Cultural House hosts diverse events and has a great concert hall for 500 seated guests (check out www.mak.is to find events and tickets). You’ll also find one of Iceland’s most popular live music venues there; Græni hatturinn (www.graenihatturinn.is).

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In town, you will find more than 20 rest­­­ aurants, offering both Icelandic and inter­­ national selections, with top chefs who create their own innovative cuisine with an em­phasis on local produce. Cafés, each with their individual specialty, are in abundance, while local micro-breweries and farms in the vicinity offering food tasting are a fascinating addition to the food scene.

A great base for further travels For groups and individuals, Akureyri offers a wide range of activities and events.

Companies in town arrange a multitude of tours for individuals and groups of all sizes, covering everything from flying to caving, from fishing to visiting Hidden People, from hiking to whale watching and horseback rid­ing to bird watching.

Akureyri itself has many local gems such as the old town, the botanical gard­en, art trails, museums and outdoor areas.

Akureyri is also an ideal base for visit­­ing some of Iceland‘s greatest natural wonders, such as Lake Mývatn, the vol­­canic areas of Krafla and Námaskarð, and the great waterfalls Goðafoss and Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe.

Last but not least, set your focus on the two islands which are a part of the munici­­pality of Akureyri: Hrísey Island is in the middle of the fjord, a peaceful place, some say with a powerful healing energy and then further out in the Atlantic Ocean you will find Grímsey Island with the Arctic Circle running straight through it and the colorful puffins swarming its cliffs. The puffins fly away after the first week of August and stay out on the open sea during winter but come back to their nests after mid-April. v Don’t miss out on northern Iceland. For more information check out www.visitakureyri.is

Akureyri has many local gems such as the old town, the botanical garden, art trails, museums and outdoor areas.

Akureyri is also an ideal base for visiting some of Iceland’s greatest natural wonders.

Issue one 61

Iceland from above This is Lake Mývatn in Northeast Iceland shot by Enrico Pescantini who has been examining possibilities offered by using drones for aerial photography. “Once I had planned my trip to Iceland in August, I realized that it was the ideal place for aerial photography reportage, thanks to astonishing landscapes and amazing scenery.”

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R LIGHT?

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Issue one 63

The Vatnajokull Region

Winter paradise In the Vatnajökull Region you will find the real reason why Iceland got its name.

Photo: Þorvarður Árnason

The area is dominated by Vatnajok­ull Glacier which is the largest glacier in the world outside the Arctic regions. There you also find some of Iceland’s most popular tourist attractions such as the spectacular Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Skaftafell which is the jewel in Vatnajokull National Park and Hvannadalshnjukur, the highest peak in Iceland and a popular hike.

The Vatnajokull Region is filled with contrast, with its black beaches and white glaciers. Serenity, energy and the forces of nature com­­ bine to make a visit to the Vatna­­­jokull Region a never-to-be-forgotten experience.

Wildlife is rich in the Vatnajökull Region with thousands of migrating birds passing through and herds of reindeer, a common sight. If you’re lucky you might spot a seal at Jok­ uls­­arlon Lagoon or an Arctic fox running through the land. You will also find dozens of companies that offer all sorts of activities year round, diverse accommodation and great restaurants with local food.

The Vatnajokull Region is in the southeast of Iceland and covers over 200 km of the Ring Road from Loma­­ gnupur in the west to Hvalnes in the east, the accessible south­­ern side

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of Vatnajokull Glacier. Photo­­­­­­graphy enthusiasts find the Vatna­­jokull Region particularly de­­­­­lightful as it provides countless magni­­ficent views of the glacier and moun­­­tains both in daylight but also as dusk settles, especially when the Aurora Borealis light up the sky. There is one town in the area, Hofn a lively fish­ing celebrated for being Iceland’s lobster capital of Iceland. Delightful rest­­aurants offer this precious pro­­ duct as well as various other local speci­alties.

Activity, accommodation and restaurants Have you ever imagined looking inside a glacier? Wintertime in the Vatnajokull Region glacier offers the opportunity of a unique experience that is never to be forgotten! A trip into the ice caves of Vatnajokull’s

southern crawling glaciers is an adventure that no one should miss.

The colors and refracted light in the ice reveal a world of true wonders, providing a thrill for any photography enthusiast. Local guides who know every crevice of the glacier take you on tours of caves formed during the winter months. Travelers should only go on such trips under their guidance.

Much of the activity in the realm of Vatnajokull revolves around the glacier and the nature around it. In addition to the ice cave tours you can choose between glacier walks and ice climbing, a thrilling snowmobile ride on Vatnajokull or a comfortable tour of Europe’s largest glacier in a super jeep. The area also offers ATV tours and geothermal baths at Hoffell, northern light tours, rein­­­­deer excursions, a visit to the Thor­­bergs­­ setur cultural museum and the local

handicraft store, the petting zoo at Holmur and much more.

There are various possibilities in accommo­­dations to suit different needs and you’ll be sure to find a warm welcome by knowledgeable hosts. There are several restaurants in the area and most of them offer local food, caught or grown by locals.

Be sure to ask for the local beer Vatnajokull, which is made from ice­­­bergs from the Jokulsarlon Glacial Lagoon and Arctic thyme. A lobster meal is also recommended.

Accessible year round The Vatnajokull Region is well ac­­ cessible the whole year round due to good weather conditions and frequent transportation. Eagle Air has a daily flight from Reykjavík to the Hofn Airport during the summ­­ ertime and five days a week in other seasons. Buses between Reykjavík and Hofn are scheduled daily. There are also three car rental companies in Hofn. v For more information check out www.visitvatnajokull.is.

Issue one 65

The ultimate guide

Take a hike

The town in the lava Hafnarfjörður is a town on the outskirts of Reykjavik and the most charming one, in my opinion. The town was built on an 8000-year-old lava field and the houses in the oldest part of town, often brightly painted, are of irregular shapes and sizes to fit between small hills of outcropping lava. We recommend that you spend a day in Hafnarfjörður with a walk around this unuasual landscape, stopping in for a cup of coffee at Norðurbakkinn or Súfistinn Café and going for a refreshing swim in the town’s fancy outdoor swimming pool, Suðurbæjarlaug. In the evening, you could venture into the Viking Restaurant, where a rough-and-tumble Viking waiter can help top off your day.

Text and photos by Einar Skúlason

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ur walk starts in Strand­ gata, Hafnar­­fjordur’s main shopp­ing street.

We go past Súfistinn Café and the library toward the oldest houses in town. The house of Sívertsen is the oldest, built in 1805 by Bjarni Sívertsen, the first Icelander who got permission from the Danish king to become a merchant in Iceland. Then we go past the sea and the old indoor swimming pool Sundhöllin and up Klettsvegur Road to Víðistaðatún Park. It is a mystery why lava did not cover this area. According to the theory it was actually a hill 8000 years ago and has since changed partly because it was easier to get sand and dirt from there than from around the lava when building houses and such. In the pond, you’ll see a lot of a tiny fish called three-spined stickleback. If you only see a few you can blame the birds and the children in the area.

More than meets the eye Now follow the narrow Garðsvegur and Hellisgata streets and into the small but beautiful Hellisgerði Park. Many stories have been told about hidden people, elves and dwarfs living in the rocks of Hellisgerði Park and there are even special tours guided by people that can see more than most. If you relax, have a seat and stare at the rocks, who knows what you might see moving about. On you go toward Hverfisgata, along Linnetsstígur and past the Free Church and then down Gunnarssund and back to the shopping street of Strandgata. There’s a cluster of some nice boutiques there and there is always a chance that you’ll find something irresistible or, at least you will help out in their uneven competition with the big shopping centers. In the square, they have a small Christmas village in December and bundled up in your warm winter coat, it’s nice to meander around to see what they’re offering.

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If you want more info and exact guidance for the Hafnarfjörður Walk, you can download the Wapp Walking app from Appstore and Play­­store. There you’ll find the Hafnar­­fjörður Walk with the GPS track, info and a map for a rea­­sona­­ ble price and you can use it offline while you enjoy this pleasant little town in the lava.

The Hafnarfjordur jokes No one really knows how it got started but in Iceland it’s customary to tell jokes about the people from Hafnarfjorður. For example: They take a ladder when they go shopping because the prices have been rising.

The front row at the cinema is always taken first in Hafnarfjörður because everyone wants to be first to see the film.

Everyone goes quietly past the pharmacy in Hafnarfjörður so they don’t wake up the sleeping pills.

Each day in Hafnarfjörður is 20 hrs instead of 24 because they only have ten fingers and ten toes.

How do you know which of the pirates is from Hafnarfjörður? He will be the one with two eye patches.

The jokes go on and on.

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PHOTO Buy your prepaid SIM card at BSI bus terminal, Vodafone stores, N1 gas stations all around Iceland, and at our network of resellers.

Issue one 67

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Osushi is a unique rest­aurant in Iceland. The met­­hod

The white palace

of dining involves snatching small plates from a conveyor belt. Pricing is distinguished by the color

The main building of the National University Hospital of Iceland, aka Landspítalinn, is a grand building near the center of Reykjavik that looks a little like a white palace.

Indeed, it has great artistic and cultural value. The late state architect Guðjón Samúelsson designed the main building which was inaugurated in 1930.

and pattern of the plate – most range between 230 - 440 ISK. Everything off the con­vey­­or belt is tasty and if you don’t really fancy sushi, you can instead choose for ex­­ample teriyaki chicken, noodle salad, tempura

by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

and desserts.

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ga ta

The vibe in Osushi is friendly and relaxed. The restaurant is located almost next door to Althingi (the parliament) which is in the heart of the city.

osushi.is

520 kr.

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iðj

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Vit as

The Icelandic architect Guðjón Samúelsson (b.1887-d.1950) was the first Icelander to complete studies in architecture. He served as the state architect for some time and designed a number of wellknown buildings in Iceland—mostly in Reykjavik—and thereby, had a great influence on the architecture in Iceland at the time. To mention a few buildings, besides the main building of the National University Hospital of Iceland designed by Samúelsson: the National Theater, the University of Iceland, Hótel Borg, Hallgrímskirkja Church that towers over Reykjavík, the Catholic church Landakotskirkja and the Church of Akureyri in North Iceland. When looking at these buildings, you can’t really help but go, “WOW!” Samúelsson was influenced by various trends in architecture, such as neoclassic, functional and national romanticism. He also sought inspiration in Icelandic nature. The main building of the National University Hospital of Iceland was built in the years 1926-1930—in part, thanks to Samúelsson was in­ Icelandic women who had collected money fluenced by various for this project. It was Queen Alexandrine of trends in architecture, Denmark who laid the cornerstone for the such as neoclassic, building in 1926; maybe you did not know functional and national it but Iceland was a part of the Kingdom romanticism. He also of Denmark from 1814 to 1918. After sought inspiration in that, Iceland was in a personal union with Icelandic nature.

Denmark until 1944 when Iceland declared independence.

The main building of the hospital is considered by many as one of the best-designed buildings by Samúelsson. It’s a grand building that looks like a white palace and has both artistic and cultural value.

Icelanders are now about 329,000 and have long since outgrown the old hospital, it is estimated that in 2065—yes, in 49 years—they will be 437,000. The University Hospital of Iceland is now housed in several buildings around Reykjavik, a few of them on the same site which are connected to the old main building.

Babies will be born, people will get sick and eventually die and, of course, it’s always best to have a modern hospital. So if the truth be known, for some years now, a design for a modern hospital has been in the works, but still, it’s only at the design stage. Some want it built near the main building, others not. But that’s another story. v

gata

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r Pósthússtræti 13 / Borgartúni 29 / Reykjavíkurvegur 60 HF. ða ar Nj Tel: 561 0562 / www.osushi.is

Issue one 69

WOW design

Further North Home accessories brand Further North is exclusively designed by Auður Gná Ingvarsdóttir, an interior architect from the Elisava Escola Universitária de Disseny I Enginyeria in Barcelona where she studied and lived for a decade. An enduring dream of successfully fusing togeth­er interior and product design was happily realized two years ago when Further North’s contemporary capsule collection was born.

by Gerður Harðardóttir Photos: Íris Ann Sigurðardóttir

Auður’s source of inspiration and values stem from her passion for having highly skilled Icelandic artisans work diligently with local materials of the highest quality, producing unique products for the home.

Each and every item in the Further North collection is handmade in limit­ ed numbers using locally sourced materials such as sheepskin, cowhide, wood and rhyolite. The emphasis is on perfect craftsmanship and materials that offer a glimpse into the past while simultaneously being current and contemporary in their design.

Natural materials A set of colorful and decorative pillows and cushions were the first products to be launched by Further North with each pillow and cushion made from unique Icelandic sheepskin. The sheepskins are tanned at Atlantic Leather, a tanning factory situated in a rural town in Each and every North Iceland, item in the Further hence the North collection is name, Further handmade in limit­ed North. Each numbers using locally and every sourced materials skin that such as sheepskin, makes its cowhide, wood and way into the rhyolite.

Further North collection is personally handpicked by the tanning factory’s product- and factory manager who carefully watches over them as they pass through the complicated tanning process. Atlantic Leather is known internationally for its quality craftsmanship, and was recently nomin­­ated for a prize as one of the best tanning factories in Europe.

Warm geothermal water and renewable energy from a hydroelectric power station form a vital part of the tanning

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process, making the whole process environmentally friendly and nearly pollution free.

Rich colors The colors of the sheepskins had to appeal to Auður personally, and it was also important that the chosen colors had a distinctive richness about them.

Instead of working with the traditional neutral colors of the Icelandic sheep, the goal was to look at the latest trends in fashion for color inspiration. It was also important that the whole tanning production were as eco-friendly as possible, which meant that certain colors were off limits from the start.

The complexity of the tanning process and the fact that the sheepskin is 100% natural has also meant that it is practically impossible to control the outcome of the colors, a fact that makes the products, even more, unique.

Another popular product from Further North is sets of rounded, sculptural mirrors hung from a wall by a broad leather strap. The mirrors work fantastically as a decorative element for the home as well as serving their utilitarian purpose. Next up for Further North is a new line of textile products which will be intro­­duced at the upcoming annual De­­signMarch, in Reykjavík from March 10-13.

Further North is currently available in Aurum at Bankastræti 4, Hrím at Laugavegur 25 and Kringlan Shopping Center, Mýrin at Kringlan Shopping Center, Snúran at Síðumúli 21 and in Copenhagen in Casa Shop at Store Renegade 2 and Shop Dora at Værnedamsvej 6. v

www.further-north.com

NO NEED TO WAIT FOR YOUR BAG if you do like the locals and pick up your duty free goods in the arrival store before your luggage www.dutyfree.is

Issue one 71

WOW entrepreneurs

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The winds of change Becoming sustainable or, at least, more sustainable is something many of us strive for and the entrepreneurs at IceWind might just have the solution. What started as a simple but elegant and unusual anemometer for a final course project at the University of Iceland in 2008 is now becoming an energy solution for the future, at least, when it comes to cabins and telecommunication towers.

Photos: Courtesy of IceWind

Y

ou’ve probably all seen the traditional horizontal-axis wind turbines used in many places of the world. They look like propellers placed on high towers and can generate up to 2 megawatts of electricity each.

IceWind’s elegant Savonius wind turbines are on a much smaller scale and always will be as they are focused on being an affordable solution for individuals, mainly cabin and farm owners that don’t have access to geothermal water for heating, but also for telecommunications towers.

They’re not trying to compete with the general electricity market, at least not in Iceland, as the electricity prices here are probably the lowest in the world, but when it comes to heating cabins and summer cottages they could save their customers in Iceland up to 300,000 ISK (2,100 EUR - 2,300 USD) a year in energy costs.

A green energy solution “Normal homes use a lot of energy so we are mainly looking at cabins and summer cottages. You could, of course, save some money by putting the wind turbine on top of your home but here in Iceland, because of the low electricity cost, a wind turbine would probably take a long time to pay off whereas for a cabin with no geothermal heating it would only take 3-4 years. This is also the reason why we’re looking to foreign markets where energy prices are much higher,” says Saethor Asgeirsson founder and CEO of IceWind.

“There are around 9,500 summer cottages in Iceland without geo­ thermal heating. The turbines have a five-year guarantee but they should last for at least 30 years so it’s a very safe investment. Our foreign mark­et is mainly telecommunication towers. There are around a million of those in the world and they are driven by diesel generators 24 hours a day, all year round. We want to be a part of shutting down these diesel gener­ators, switching them out for a green energy solution that works.

There’s been a shortage of hardy

green energy solutions and that’s the space we’re stepping into,” adds Thor E. Bachmann, chief business development officer at IceWind.

From measuring wind, to harnessing it The idea behind IceWind’s wind turbines began in 2007-2008 when Saethor was studying mechanical engineering at the University of Ice­ land. “I was visiting my friend Gunnar Eiriksson, who’s a machinist, at his garage. He was fixing a massive diesel turbine on his table and I noticed a spiral with triangular blades. I had been assigned to create an ane­mo­ meter for a school project and as there were no restrictions on the design I wondered if something like this spiral could measure the wind. We started building the anemometer, it was ca. 30 cm tall and it worked really well.

“In 2009 or 2010 my parents were looking for a way to lower the energy bill at their cabin in Húsafell in West Iceland. At the time, they were paying 250,000-300,000 ISK just for heating.

That’s when I started thinking about my little anemometer again and Gunnar and I built a much bigger one, tested it and put it on top of the cabin.

It generated some of the power needed to heat the cabin for ca. 4-5 years and we just recently took it down to inspect its condition,” says Saethor but he also informed us that the wind turbines have changed so much since that first prototype that it’s really not the same product anymore.

Since that first wind turbine for Saethor parents, he and Gunnar have been making a new prototype each year that is being used or tested in various locations.

“They go up and down for testing.

Presently we have a wind turbine at Stórhöfði in the Westman Islands that’s strictly being examin­ed for endurance in vola­tile weather con­ ditions; there’s one at the Topp­stöðin in Reykjavik that gener­ates electricity; the Technical School of Reykjavik has one as a teaching item and our telecommunication tower turbine is now being tested near Þrengslavegur Issue one 73

Road (between Reykjavik and Thorlakshofn),” says Saethor and Thor adds that each wind turbine is not necessarily generating electricity but rather being tested for endurance as well as finding out the durability of various components. “If something breaks we take that turbine down and reevaluate its components.”

Energy in the air IceWind was founded in 2012 by Saethor and his friend Gunnar who’s been with him from the start.

Saethor’s father, Asgeir, also helped with the founding. Saethor says he’s always been focused on energy.

“I would say that I am an energy engineer, even though I studied mechanical engineering. All my

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focus was on energy. In Iceland it was geothermal and hydro power and I also studied in Sweden where I learned more about renewable energy and nuclear energy. It’s pretty simple really—energy is my thing.”

Thor is a business administrator and he joined IceWind in May 2015. He admits that he wasn’t exactly thinking green before he came aboard. “I have learned a lot since then,” he says.

Saethor and Thor are working full time with the company and IceWind is also in good collaboration with the University of Iceland where they get interns who help out and analyze various projects. “Our plan is to get IceWind to an international market where our wind turbines would be produced locally for each area. Our turbines are bulky so it would not be cost efficient to ship them from Iceland and besides it’s not environmentally friendly. Our production facilities in Iceland will be used for further research and development,” says Thor.

IceWind’s biggest wind turbine,

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which is ca. 2 meters high and 2.5 meters in diameter can produce up to 1,000 watts of electricity. That is roughly the amount needed to run one microwave indefinitely.

“We use batteries to collect the unused energy. If you were to use a microwave constantly it means there would be no energy left over to collect,” says Saethor. When the turbine is generating more energy than needed to run things, the excess energy is collected into those batteries and depending on how many batteries you have you could collect enough energy to run a whole cabin on just wind power for a period of time. “If you have only one or two batteries the energy collected will be depleted sooner. It’s kind of like the

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difference between getting a glass of water and getting a 10-liter jug,” Saethor explains. “The more batteries you have the better you will utilize the wind generated electricity,” he adds.

A unique design The genius behind IceWind’s design is that the wind turbines do not need a steady wind and they can utilize turbulent gusts that change directions. “Our wind turbines always turn the same; they don’t change direction or try to face the wind.

Traditional wind turbines don’t start generating electricity until the wind speed is up to 3.5 meters per second but our turbines start at 2 meters per second and continue up to almost indefinite wind speeds whereas the traditional turbines need to shut down at 25 meters per second to protect themselves. We want to continue generating electricity even during the craziest of weathers,” Saethor says.

“Because of its design and the laws of physics, our turbine will have the

same rotating speed at 23 meters per second wind speed as in 50 meters per second. The turbine slows itself down and can keep its top rotating speed even if the wind speed goes above 30 meters per second,” Thor tells us. This amazing fact is due to a pressure that builds up behind the blades as the turbine rotates, which pulls the blades back harder and harder as the wind speed gets higher.

“This is absolutely unique to our wind turbines, and they rotate 90% slower than normal wind turbines,” adds Thor. “We use ceramic bearings which are produced for great rotating speeds but because our turbine rotates slowly there will never be a need to use oil or grease. There is no maintenance needed,” says Saethor.

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Could this be the next big thing?

“We’re hoping that it is. We’ll start here in Iceland and then take it inter­­­natio­­ nal,” says Thor and Saethor adds that the USA and Canada will proba­­bly be their next stop as most of the attention they’ve gotten, comes from there.

When did you realize that you had something extraordinary in your hands?

“Before founding the company in 2012, it was just me and Gunnar playing around in his garage. We got a big grant in 2012 which made us realize that we weren’t the only ones that thought that our wind turbine was a good idea. The ball really started rolling after we founded the company and made this big decision to start doing something with our design. It was a little weird to start believing in something that up to this time had only been a pet project.

We were like ‘Woah, this is getting big!’ By then we had gotten grants and money from various funding organizations so we really had to put

all our energy into this and deliver.

We really felt the responsibility and it changed the way we thought about the project,” Saethor tells us.

A smaller environmental footprint IceWind’s turbines are still not available on the market but people have been placing orders and Saethor and Thor expect to deliver the first ones this April. “A lot of people have contacted us; most of them cabin owners and all are looking for ways to lower their heating cost,” says Saethor.

“People are trying to become more sustainable; they’re putting solar cells on their roofs and little wind catchers in their yards but the prob­

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lem with these little wind catch­ers is that they usually don’t look good and they’re noisy. We’re offering a wind turbine that’s virtually silent and at first glance it looks more like a sculpture than a turbine,” he adds.

“Whether we are talking about cabins or telecommunication towers our goal is always to minimize both cost and pollution with this hardy green solution. We might not be able to eliminate the use of fossil fuel when it comes to the telecom towers but we could, at least, help them use less of it, thus saving money and leaving a smaller environmental footprint,” Thor says.

IceWind recently got a whole year’s funding from an interested party in the USA who prefers anonymity. Their first year of business is secure and they have already sold their first wind turbine in Iceland. All of us at WOW air wish them the best of luck and hope to see their elegant wind turbines all over the place in the years to come. v For more information visit icewind.is

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Issue one 75

Rafting • Ice Climbing • Snorkeling • Diving • Glacier Hike • Canoeing • Hiking • Kayaking • Cycling • Surfing • Boat Ride • Hot Spring • Swimming • Climbing Super-Jeep • Caving • Horse Riding • Sightseeing • Snowmobile • Whale Watching • ATV • Incentive • Skiing • Mountain Hut • Camping • Combo Trips

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Montreal Toronto Boston San Francisco Los Angeles

CO NN ECTIN G THE CONT INENT S

WOW IS IN THE AIR! 76

WOW Power to the people

Washington, D.C.

Reykjavik

Stockholm Copenhagen Vilnius Dublin

Amsterdam

Berlin Warsaw Amsterdam D端sseldorf Frankfurt Paris Salzburg Milan Lyon

London

Bristol

Barcelona Alicante

Nice Rome

Tenerife Gran Canaria

Issue one 77

Montreal

The wonders below Travelers do two things in abundance, shop and sightsee. The Montreal Underground City lets you do both, simultaneously. Also called “RÉSO,” as a homonym of the French word “réseau” for network, La Ville Souterraine, or the indoor/interior city, is the largest subterranean complex in the world.

Photos: Courtesy of Art Souterrain / Samuel Boisvert, Tourisme Montréal / Stéphan Poulin and World Trade Centre Montréal

The 32 kilometers (20 miles) of tunnels— above and below ground—connect Métro sta­­tions (68 stations total, on four lines), ho­­­tels, banks, restaurants, stores, museums, movie theat­ ers, condos and more. Once you’re under­­ground, you can stay there from dawn to dusk to dawn again.

A shelter from the seasons Billed as a tourist attraction, it’s used by 500,000 people a day. La Ville Souterraine started in 1962, the spider web of tunnels was conceived

by Vincent Ponte, an urban planner, and famed architects I.M. Pei and Henry N. Cobb. They were designing Place Ville-Marie (PVM), Montreal’s first contemporary skyscraper. Ponte’s goals were to build an underground city that would ease streetlevel traffic congestion. It would also provide a climate-controlled way for people to navigate the area without being exposed to Montreal’s blustery winters (and the sometimes equally intense summ­­ers). Most of it is open daily from 5:30 am to 1 am.

Underground art The complex received a huge boost with the start of the Montreal Métro system in 1966 and the Expo ‘67 World’s Fair which put the Underground City on the map, literally and figuratively. Today, the Underground connects museums, is a home for public art (each of the 68 stations in the Métro system has its own unique design, providing a form of permanent performance art), and an annual art event, Art Souterrain in late February and early March where dozens of artists display their work in little pop-up type galleries. Nuit Blanche, the light festival, kicks off the celebration of the arts.

As the creator of the Culture Tripper blog (www. culturetripper.com), Lesley Peterson writes about the arts when you travel. She also suggests trav­ el­­ing to “the Place des Arts, a cultural complex housing a contemporary art museum and six concert halls. In the midst of Place des Arts is the Espace Culturel Georges-Émile Lapalme, an agora (market) that doubles as an art gallery with numerous installations, both temporary and permanent.”

Peterson remembers visiting Montreal during the Expo days and going to the top of the PVM for the spectacular view of the city lights. It’s been closed for a while but is due to reopen this spring (2016).

The project includes an observatory, a heated outdoor terrace, an exhibition gallery and the Les Enfants Terribles restaurant.

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Subterranean shopping Sandra Phillips is the queen of Montre­­al shopping with her book, Smart Shopping Montre­­al and her Web site, www.Smart­­Shopp­­ ing­Montreal.com. She says, “A muse­­um shop is a good place to buy souvenirs. Both the Musee d’art Contemporain (Métro: Place des Arts) and Musee des BeauxArts (Métro: Peel) have creative gift shops, and both are accessi­­­ble via Metro and the Under­­ground City. If you’re searching for fashion,” says Phillips, “Simons (Métro: Peel), is a Quebec-owned department store highlighting au courant styles at reasonable prices.”

The 32 kilometers (20 miles) of tunnels—above and below ground— connect Métro sta­­tions (68 stations total, on four lines), ho­­­tels, banks, restaurants, stores, museums, movie theat­ers, condos and more. Once you’re under­­ ground, you can stay there from dawn to dusk to dawn again.

When you go below the city streets, whether to amble and explore or with a destination in mind, look for streetlevel signs for one of the 120 entrances to RÉSO and the wonders below.

You’re sure to find a treasure either way. Note, there is some resistance by locals toward using the name Underground City because it is not a city, but whether you ask in French, English, or Frenglish, someone will tell you where the nearest entrance is.

You can pick up a map at your hotel or almost everywhere within the system.

And be sure to take some figurative breadcrumbs with you or, at least, your hotel’s address so you can find your way home. v

Get up before you go down. WOW air starts flying to Montreal in May with four flights a week all year round.

Find cheap flights to Montreal from around Europe at wowair.com. You can also have a stopover in Iceland on your way there or back.

Issue one 79 Photo: iStockphoto.com / aetb

Photo: iStockphoto.com / KalSyer

WOW Canada!

7 Toronto must-see’s From boardwalks to beaches and bookshops to bistros, Canada’s largest city is also trendiest when it comes down to urban cultural activities. Here are 7 Toronto must-see’s.

by Cindy-Lou Dale

Photographic inspiration The Scotiabank CONTACT Photo­­­ graphy Festival is the world’s bigg­­­est celebration of the art of photo­­­graphy, attracting snap-happy camera buffs for the whole month of May. With more than 1,500 artists showing their work at over 250 venues, this is where inspiration happens.

Out and proud Come out and play this June at Toronto’s Pride Week—among the biggest organiz­­­ ed LGBT events anywhere in the world, with attendance estimated at around one million. People from all cultural and ethnic backgrounds come to­­gether to celebrate Pride in Toronto—even the Toronto Police Service takes part in the Pride Parade. Water guns are a staple, if you aren’t getting wet, you’re not having fun!

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People from all cultural and ethnic backgrounds come to­­gether to celebrate Pride in Toronto— even the Toronto Police Service takes part in the Pride Parade.

Science!

The Ontario Science Centre’s aim is to enrich people’s lives and engage them in science—important at a local, national and global scales in subjects ranging from space to magnetism—all in an interactive environment.

Photo: iStockphoto.com / tirc83

The Distillery District Architecture fans should head to the Distillery District for a stroll back in time through an inter­­na­­ti­onally acclaimed pedestrian-only neigh­­­bor­­­­hood. The hip new area is the site of North America’s largest and best preserved collection of Victor­ian industrial architecture and home to many of Tor­onto’s hottest designer boutiques, unique cafes, artisan shops, gorgeous art galleries and award-winning restaurants.

Photo: iStockphoto.com / bukharova

Reading British author Arthur Conan Doyle, creator of Sherlock Holmes, was a frequent visitor to Toronto.

Discover his Canadian connection at the Toronto Reference Library, which has one of the world’s finest collections of Doyle‑related items on display.

Good wine Toronto is home to Canada’s only female master sommelier—one of just 180 in the world! Jennifer Huether works for Maple Leaf Sports and Entertainment, which includes restaurants such as e11even, home to 4,000 bottles displayed in a stunning glass cellar.

Casa Loma An unabashed romantic, Sir Henry Pellatt engaged noted architect E.J. Lennox to help him realize a lifelong dream in creating a medieval castle on the brow of a hill overlooking Toronto. Begun in 1911, it took 300 men nearly three years to complete Casa Loma at a cost $3.5 million. It’s open daily to visitors.

After doing the cultural thing, take in Toronto’s nightlife. For the best parties, Fly is the place to be as they host some of the world’s best DJs. For atmosphere, head to Pegasus Bar and the cool Voglie Risto-Bar. Then there’s Slack Alice, a popular bistro; and for the best mojito in the city drop in at The Drake Hotel on Queen St West.

Then see the night out at the Huxton Nightclub, on Bathurst. Alternatively, take a moonlight cruise with Epic Cruises and dance till dawn on the largest open deck dance floor in Toronto. v www.seetorontonow.com

Photo: iStockphoto.com / Andres Garcia Martin

There are of course many more great reasons to visit Toronto and here’s one: WOW air now offers cheap flights to Toronto and will start flying there in May 2016.

Find a cheap flight to Toronto from Europe at wowair.com. You can even make a WOW Stopover in Iceland on the way there or back.

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To book in advance: tel:+354 588 5522 or on www.hreyfill.is E-mail: tour@hreyfill.is Issue one 81

48-hours in Bristol

England’s greenest and most chilled out city When John Cabot set sail to discover Canada back in 1497, Bristol was already a wealthy trading port, and has been for more than a thousand years.

Text and photos: Cindy-Lou Dale

Post WW2 Bristol became an industrial center: home of the Concorde, Rolls Royce and where the wings of the A380 Airbus are manu­­ factur­ed. More recently the buzzing multicult­ural university city of 500,000 has morphed into a large commercial center, one of the most popular cities for business relocation. Bristol is a major focus for media industries, silicon design, aerospace engi­ neer­ing and environmental technology.

With only 48-hours in which to take in the city’s top attractions, I needed to streamline my wish list which resulted in the following:

Day 1: The historic docks are an energetic colorful parade of inspirational art galleries, eclectic cafes and character restaurants, many housed in converted warehouses—a reminder of the city’s rich maritime heritage. Brunel’s great iron steamship, the ss Great Britain—the world’s first ocean-going liner—is a permanent exhibition at the floating harbor across from the Oporto Quay (www.ssgreatbritain.org). The hop-on-hop-off harbor ferry is a fabulous way of taking in the sights and sounds of Harbourside. Cross over to the Old City from Harbourside via the pedestrian

Pero Bridge, so named after Pero Jones, the Afri­ can servant of a plantation owner (between the 1600s and 1800s Bristol was involved in the slave shipping industry—a discrediting fact evidenced in the city’s architecture), then head to the Ferry Station, a unique floating cafe bar. It’s a great place to take in the unorthodox vibe of the city and watch the ferry boats glide by. Sit out on the sundeck or in the comfortable interiors and enjoy a great organic lunch (www.ferrystation.co.uk).

Alternatively, every Wednesday the popular weekly farmers market offers fantastic lunch-on-the-go options with cheese from Portugal, Pieminister pies, Italian sausages, Moroccan juice bars, soups from Turkey and Caribbean salads. On Sunday’s the market is held at the Tobacco Factory.

A five-minute cab ride to the city fringe will take you to the Bristol Blue Glass Factory (no entry fee) where you can watch Bristol’s famed glassblowers. (www.bristolblueglass.com) Some of the UK’s best shopping is to be had in Bristol. From the glamorous and exciting Cabot Circus to Broadmead and The Mall at Cribbs Causeway, they offer all the high street labels.

Park Street and the Clifton Arcade, a Victorian shopping mall on Boyces Avenue, showcase more local, independent names. St Nicholas Market is an archi­­­­tectural gem with an intriguing choice of stalls and small shops selling vinyl records, second-hand books, previously loved clothes and exotic deli food.

Day 2: Away from the water’s edge, winding streets lead to elegant parks, squares and historic buildings like the Bristol Cathedral; the Old Vic Theatre—the oldest working theater in the country whose stage graduates include Jeremy Irons, Miranda Richardson and Patrick Stewart; as well as the baroque St Mary Redcliffe Church, under which the infamous pirate “Blackbeard” had a hideaway cave. Futuristic architecture

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rubs shoulders with the old city’s grand, dignified buildings found on the medieval quarter’s cobbled streets and if you look carefully you’ll spot the work of local, world-renowned graffiti artist, Banksy.

The steep Christmas Steps—once the muddy passageway down to the Frome Bridge—serves as an architectural reminder of the past four centuries: lampposts recall Victorian gaslights; tiny shops with askew bow-fronted windows reminiscent of Georgian times; at the top, piously looking down the steps and across the city is the 15th-century chapel of Foster’s Almshouse.

At the bottom of Christmas Steps, a couple of hundred meters along Colston Avenue, is Flavourz, a buffet restaurant, offering superb food at rock bottom prices. I took in a 3-course lunch for £6.95 (www.flavourz.co.uk).

A stone’s throw from the city center is the elegant, leafy village of Clifton, with its beautifully preserved Georgian architecture. Here Whiteladies Road is filled with unusual antique shops, quirky cafes, modern art galleries and chic boutiques.

From the terrace of the Avon Gorge Hotel, where I stopped for high tea, I took in the dramatic view of the Clifton Suspension Bridge and the gorge that it spans—Bristol’s iconic landmark designed by the celebrated Victorian engineer, Isambard Kingdom Brunel.

I decided to stay on for dinner at the Bridge Cafe (£25 for a superb 3-course meal) to further take pleasure in an illuminated nighttime view of the bridge. From my vista, it was easy to see where JK Rowling drew her Harry Potter inspiration.

For additional details, sights and places to visit, take a look at the Bristol Tourist Office website www.visitbristol.com. v

Visit UK’s greenest city. Starting in May, WOW air will fly to Bristol three times a week all year round from USA and Canada via Iceland.

Find cheap flights to Bristol from USA and Canada at wowair.com. You can even make a WOW Stopover in Iceland on the way there or back.

Issue one 83

Berlin

14 tips for budget travelers in Berlin Berlin is known for being a budget-friendly city. Buying and renting apartments is still relatively cheap compared to other European cities and tickets to sporting and cultural events are easily manageable.

Some things are even free, like visiting museums. Our friends at Berlinur.de have made a list of 14 tips for those who want to visit Berlin on a budget.

by Berlinur.de photos: Berlinur.de and iStockphotos.com

1 The beer

You’ll probably enjoy the price of beer in Berlin. Now, a word to the wise: Buying a large beer is not necessarily the most economic choice. If the service is good you should definitely choose smaller portions and enjoy the Ger­mans’ beloved foam. Keep in mind that beer in Berlin gets more expensive the closer you get to popular tourist attractions. Price: 1.80 € - 5.50 €

Bus no. 100 goes a very similar route as the Hop on / Hop off bus in Berlin. The biggest difference is that bus no. 100 is part of the public transport system so a one-time ticket only costs 2.70 € and a day pass is 6.90 € .

Practical

10 If you’re in Berlin you should stock up on razor blades and Nespresso capsules.

11 Glasses

In Berlin, and all of Germany, you can get a free eye test at Fielmann’s plus they offer really cheap eyewear.

Photo: iStockphotos.com / claudiodivizia

2 Sporting events

In England, you might have to postpone your mortgage payment for a ticket to a major league game but that’s not the case in Berlin. You could watch Hertha play for as little as 14 €.

Bread rolls 3 They might as well give these away, they’re so cheap. Maybe they’re produced with great quantities of baking powder in a neighboring country but the price is still unbelievable: 0.19 €­ a piece! You can also buy high quality bread rolls that cost a little more but they’re still pretty cheap at around 0.60 €.

Döner kebab

4 A döner—as kebabs are called in Berlin—can sometimes be as cheap as 1 €. But if you are looking for a better quality, a good quality döner can cost around 3 € and it’s a pretty good size.

Hamburgers

5 Speaking of meals for 1 € …

McDonalds is cheaper in Germany than other European cities. A single cheeseburger can go for as low as 1 € and a Big Mac meal costs ca. 6.50 €.

12 Bus 100

Bus no. 100 goes a very similar route as the Hop on / Hop off bus in Berlin. The biggest difference is that bus no. 100 is part of the public transport system so a one-time ticket only costs 2.70 € and a day pass is 6.90 € compared to at least 17€ you would pay for a day pass on the Hop on / Hop off bus.

Groceries

13 Buying groceries is pretty cheap in Berlin compared to other European cities. The cheapest stores are Penny, Lidl, Netto and Aldi. A little pricier but still cheap are Kaisers and Rewe.

14 Ice cream

The Fernsehturm 7 Compared to other great monuments with a view, going up to the Fernsehturm (TV Tower) on Alexanderplatz is pretty cheap or ca. 13 €. That’s far less than the 30 you pay at the London Eye.

Of course, there’s ice cream of all types, quality and prices in Berlin. However, Germans consider 1 € to be a reasonable price for one scoop of ice cream which is a pretty low price.

And there you have it—traveling to Berlin on a budget is no problem at all. v

8 Lunch

You should go out for lunch in Berlin as a lot of the fine dining establishments offer great deals during the day, even with a starter and a dessert. We recommend asking for the “Tagesgericht” or course of the day.

Clothes

9 If you need to do some shopping for the whole family, Berlin is definitely the place to do it. They have all the popular chain stores here plus you can ask for Tax-Free. It also helps to drop in when there’s a sale which happens quite often.

Written by Katrín Árnadóttir and Margrét Rós Harðardóttir at www.berlinur.de, the Icelandic hostesses of Berlin. Berlinur offers a variety of guided tours around Berlin in both Icelandic and English all year round and has just added a new “best of” tour which blends together all the key elements of their established tours.

For more information and booking visit www. berlinur.de or email them at info@berlinur.de.

Museums

6 Some of the museums in Berlin have no admission fees. To name a few, there’s the DDR Museum at Kulturbrauerei, Topografie des Terrors War Museum and the Daimler Contemporary Art Museum.

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WOW Power to the people

Budget travelers rejoice, Berlin is affordable for all and WOW air offers cheap flights to Germany from USA and Canada all year round.

If you’re traveling on a budget you can start by finding cheap flights to Berlin from USA, Canada and Iceland at wowair.com. You can also make a WOW Stopover in Iceland on your way there or back.

Photo: iStockphotos.com / bluejayphoto

Issue one 85

New destination

A night out in the City of Angels WOW air now offers cheap flights to Los Angeles from Europe via Iceland. Time to party with the stars.

by Cindy-Lou Dale

LA’s entertainment options are endless, but plann­­ing a night out in Los Angeles doesn’t require hundreds of dollars in bottle service.

Experi­­ence some of the most exciting enter­­tain­­ ment and nightlife in LA for less than $20.

Sunset Strip Mention the legendary Sunset Strip, a stretch along Sunset Boulevard between Crescent Heights and Doheny—one of LA’s most iconic neigh­­bor­­ hoods—to anybody over 60 and they’ll recall the twelve-block stretch between Beverly Hills and Holly­­wood as the playground of the stars, the place where the Gables and Grables, the Harlows and Hayworths came in their long black limousines and super-convertibles to gamble at Giro’s, Mocambo

and the Trocadero. Back in the psychedelic 60s, it was the setting for counter-culture protests, in the 70s and 80s rock and roll decadence boomed at venues like The Viper Room and The Roxy Theater, whose sticky boards have been trodden by the likes of John Lennon, Alice Cooper and Bruce Spring­­steen. Today, Sunset Strip is a new kind of play­­ground, poking at the fun side of life.

Try the Laugh Factory comedy club, where some of the biggest names in the business have been shaking up the stage for more

The Hollywood Bowl, one of the most famous am­­ phitheater’s in the world, has hosted everyone from Bob Dylan and Barbra Streis­and to Prince, Lady Gaga and Monty Python.

than three decades. The Comedy Store is impossible to miss with its all-black exterior, adorned with the nam­­­es of nota­­ ble performers around the entrance—their Original Room features 16 headline acts appearing back-to-back-to-back.

The Hollywood Palladium is regarded by many as one of entertainment’s larger than life landmarks and has welcomed titans of the entertainment industry since the 40s.

The Hollywood Bowl, one of the most famous amphitheater’s in the world, has hosted everyone from Bob Dylan and Barbra Streisand to Prince, Lady Gaga and Monty Python.

Photo: iStockphotos.com / Meinzahn

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WOW Power to the people

Tuesday: Barney’s Beanery (8447 Santa Monica Blvd) is a West Hollywood ‘greasy spoon’ icon.

Opened in 1920, Barney’s Beanery has served generations of pop culture icons, including Jim Morrison, Janis Joplin, Marilyn Monroe, Marlon Brando, Clark Gable and Charles Bukowski. A plaque honoring Morrison and the tabletop that Joplin carved her initials on are among the memorabilia. Test your knowledge during trivia night on Tuesdays at 9 pm.

Wednesday: The Airliner (2419 N Broadway) is a bare-bones bar with multiple stages presenting experimental electronica and hip-hop shows. On Wednesday nights, it’s the weekly electronic music showcase that has launched careers for artists like Nosaj Thing and Flying Lotus.

Photo: Wikipedia.com / Nickcedergren

Fun for every day of the week

Thursday: Although Sadie Kitchen & Lounge in Hollywood is a popular dinner spot, the fun keeps going late into the night. Their cocktail menu, curated by Giovanni Martinez, boasts a variety of sea­­sonal, hand-crafted cocktails. Thursday’s happy hour starts at 6 pm and carries on through till 11 pm.

Fridays: The Ice House in nearby Pasadena is huge. Huge like in who’s appeared on its stage— Bob Newhart, Robin Williams, David Letterman, Jim Carrey, Jay Leno, Howie Mandel, Jerry Seinfeld, Steve Martin, Ellen DeGeneres. Pre-book tickets to their Friday Funnies show.

Saturday: When it comes to indie bands on the verge, the Satellite (1717 Silver Lake Blvd) is the mainstay for local and established indie bands who often present free shows. Everyone from the Foo Fighters to Beck to Silversun Pickups to Foster the People to Local Natives have spent long hard hours on their stage. But if you’re not feeling the band on stage, play a round of pool in their backroom.

Dancing every Saturday night with “Dance Yourself Clean.”

Sunday: Head to Universal CityWalk for a night out at Howl at the Moon, a duelling piano bar.

On Sundays, you get three drinks for the price of one. v

If you’re looking for music, drinks and a little food, pick and mix your night out according to what takes your fancy.

Monday: You don’t have to be the next Mariah Carey to a have a blast on Monday’s karaoke night at Bigfoot West (10939 Venice Blvd). The log cabin vibe adds a quirky ambience to this premier whisky bar hung with hipsters who rave about the inventive cocktails served in a modern-rustic, cabin-like interior.

Are you ready to party? We surely are! Set the right tone for your week of fun and fly to Los Angeles with WOW air. While you’re at it have a WOW stopover in Iceland on your way there or back and try out the Reykjavik nightlife.

Starting in June 2016 WOW air will fly up to four times a week from Iceland to Los Angeles all year round. Find available connections to California from London, Bristol, Copenhagen, Stockholm, Berlin, Frankfurt, Amsterdam and Paris at wowair.com.

ICELANDIC GOURMET MENU

Freshly caught seafood and free range lamb – with a modern twist

DINNER – 6 COURSE MENU STARTS WITH A “REFRESHING“ SHOT OF THE NATIONAL SNAPS BRENNIVÍN FOLLOWED BY A BITE-SIZED TASTE OF PUFFIN ICELANDIC OCEAN PERCH Slow cooked ocean perch, beetroot purée, spicy butter, serrano ham, beetroot ICELANDIC MINKE WHALE Shallot vinaigrette, crispy Jerusalem artichokes ICELANDIC SEA TROUT Yuzu mayo, truffle mayo, crispy quinoa, apple ICELANDIC PLAICE Samphire, green asparagus, blood orange, lime beurre blanc RACK OF FREE RANGE ICELANDIC LAMB Lamb fillet, leeks, pickled onions, browned celeriac, baked carrots, spinach and dill cream Dessert by pastry chef Axel Þ.

Austurstræti 16

101 Reykjavík

Tel: 551 0011

apotek.is

CHOCOLATE ROSE Chocolate mousse, raspberry gel, Sacher layer

Issue one 87

New destination

10 San Fran must do’s You can now book cheap flights to San Francisco from around Europe via Iceland with WOW air but what should you do once you get there?

By Cindy-Lou Dale Photos: iStockphotos.com

S

an Francisco is a manageable size so it’s possible to do 10 great things in just a day, and see most of the city. Here’s a one-day itinerary that will take a firsttimer methodically through some of the most interesting places San Francisco has to offer.

Get up early and go to Fisher­­man’s Wharf to check out the sea lions that lounge like giant dogs, around Pier 39 (Cnr Beach St and the Embarcadero). This, by the way, is the only thing you should do there and only do it around dawn, before the tourists arrive.

1

Afterward, head down Stockton St. into North Beach, the formerly Bohemian part of the city.

Get yourself a serious breakfast at Mama’s (1701 Stockton St), which makes the best breakfast in town; it gets crowded on weekends, so get there early or expect to wait about half an hour. After breakfast, you won’t feel like eating again for some time.

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WOW Power to the people

One of the top attractions of Montréal is the Montreal Biodome, housed in the form­­er Olympic bicycle racing stadium.

Every great city needs its proud civic phallus—the Empire State Building, the Washington Monu­­ ment, the Eiffel Tower.

In San Francisco, it’s Coit Tower, which some say resembles a fire hose nozzle. It

2

Photo: iStockphoto.com / coleong

gives good views of the city, perched as it is atop historic Telegraph Hill. It’s free to get inside the city-owned monument, but if you want to take the elevator to the top to dig the views, it’s $7 for adults, and a little less for pensioners and kids.

Take the Muni bus 39 from Washington Square Park to get there.

Now it’s time to take the stairs, all 400 of them down Telegraph Hill. Along the way, you’ll get to see some beautiful houses, gardens and, most of the year, brightly colored wild parrots.

3

Walk all the way to the bottom of the hill, then head east toward the Bay, to the Embarcadero, where you can hop on a historic trolley car (you’re looking for the F line) and you can ride it all the way to the Castro. Seventeen trolley cars are in service, painted in the colors of the originals from the 1920s and ‘30s. Hop off at First Street for lunch at Sam’s Grill (374 Bush St), a classic fish place; they

I’ve always thought NYC Central Park was the coolest park in the USA, but it’s got nothing on Golden Gate Park and its million trees. Be sure to visit the Conservatory of Flowers (closed Mondays), which is the oldest Victorian greenhouse this side of the Thames, and the carousel on Kezar Drive, both on the eastern edge of the park. If you’re feeling spry, walk to the western edge of the park to check out the herd of bison at the Bison Paddock, then hop a trolley or bus back east.

6

Next stop, the Exploratorium (Pier 15), San Francisco’s legendary science museum in the Presidio. Make sure you experience the tactile dome, a pitch-black maze that you have to navigate by touch (it’s worth the $20 premium on top of the $15 admission fee); blow the world’s biggest soap bubble.

7

From the Presidio, you can walk to the Golden Gate Bridge, which isn’t really golden at all—it’s more of a rust. The bridge is an engineering marvel and one of the most beautiful walks in the country.

8

The one good thing to come out of the Loma Prieta earthquake of 1989 was the revitalization of San Francisco’s waterfront.

Case in point, the renovated Ferry Building—a magnificent structure on the Embarcadero, at the foot of Market Street. Okay, the real reason to come here is the food (that, and the ferry to Marin County): There’s a fabulous farmers market on Tuesdays and Saturdays until 2 pm and no shortage of great places to eat.

9

Photo: iStockphoto.com / coleong

have an authentic sourdough loaf on each table and they don’t serve farmed fish or endangered species.

Get back on the trolley and take it to the Castro Street Station, the end of the line.

San Francisco’s Castro neighborhood was initially settled by gay servicemen discharged here from the Armed Forces (for being gay) during World War II. Historically, the neighborhood has always been in flux: At the turn of last century, it was known as Little Scandinavia; then it became an Irish neighborhood until the Gay Pride Movement of the 1960s made it safe for all the ex-servicemen to come out. Nowadays it’s overrun with fashionable and rich straight people.

4

replacing its head shops with high-end boutiques, chic restaurants and hip cafés. My favorite spot in the Haight is Amoeba Music (1855 Haight St), which is in a former bowling alley and boasts one of the biggest collections of CDs (new and used) in the world.

From Amoeba, head west a block along Haight Street to its end. Cross the street and you’re just inside Golden Gate Park, at famous Hippie Hill, which you’ll either love or loathe, depending on your feelings about drum circles and wheat-free pot brownies.

If it’s baseball season, you owe it to yourself to take in a baseball game at the AT&T Park (24 Willie Mays Plaza). Not to mention that you’ve never had better food at a ballpark: the garlic fries and Sheboygans (bratwursts with kraut), oh my! If you find yourself downtown at lunchtime and there’s a day game, wait a few innings then pay half-price for a ticket from one of the many scalpers standing around.

10

For a late night cup of the best blended Frenchpress coffee you’ve ever had, go to Philz Coffee (201 Berry St) nearby. v

Grab a delicious cookie or brownie at Hot Cookie (407 Castro St) and view the snapshots of store patrons showing off their Hot Cookie underwear.

Next-door is the famous Castro Theater (429 Castro St), a pristine, 1920s movie palace that shows excellent art and repertoire films and has a real live Wurlitzer player some nights.

From the Castro, you can walk to the Haight—it’s a little less than a mile—or take Muni bus 33.

The birthplace of America’s counter-culture, the Haight was Ground Zero during the summer of 1967, a.k.a. The Summer of Love, baby! Hippies used to live here, but at some point the Jefferson Airplane moved out and affluent yuppies moved in, buying up all the colorful Victorian homes throughout Haight-Ashbury and

5

Photo: iStockphoto.com / pikappa

Photo: iStockphoto.com / rramirez125

What are you waiting for? WOW air is going to fly you all the way to San Francisco from Europe via Iceland. Book cheap flights to California with WOW air and you can also have a WOW stopover in Iceland on your way there or back.

Starting in June 2016 WOW air will fly up to five times a week from Iceland to San Francisco all year round. Find available connections to California from London, Bristol, Copenhagen, Stockholm, Berlin, Frankfurt, Amsterdam and Paris at wowair.com.

Issue one 89

Washington, D.C.

Five ways to stay cozy in a Washington, D.C. winter Washington, D.C. hosts a bounty of cold-weather sanctuaries safe from its bustling, frosty streets.

Whether you’re meandering through a museum, lured into a fireplace-warmed restaurant, attending a theater performance, refueling at a third wave coffee shop or zipping around an ice rink, D.C. offers a fun variety of winter wonderland nooks for visitors of all ages.

Text by Krista Connor Photos: Courtesy of respective venues

Popular displays include dinosaur skeletons, natur­al gems and minerals, artifacts from early history, an insect zoo, and a live coral reef.

The Natural History Museum.

The Brixton 901 U St. NW; brixtondc.com, 202-560-5045 Stumbling around in ski boots is not needed at this lodgethem­­ed restaurant complete with a fire­­place to gather ‘round. Taxidermy, antler chandeliers and an Old-Worldfeel permeate through­­out the second floor of the Englishthemed establishment—and when you’re there don’t forget to grab a hearty mug of mulled wine.

Go ice skating!

National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden Constitution Ave., NW and 7th St.; nga.gov, 202-216-9397 One of D.C.’s seasonal highlights, this rink is located on the grounds of the National Gallery of Art, surrounded by stunning architecture and sculptures. Continuing through March 13, you can experience ice skating in the Sculpture Garden while surrounded by large-scale pieces by contemporary artists, including Louise Bourgeois, Sol LeWitt and Tony Smith. See website for hours.

Tickets range from $7.50-$8.50 with an additional fee for skate and locker rentals.

Warm up at the nation’s best museums

Cuddle up at restaurants with fireplaces

The National Museum of Natural History 10th St. and Constitution Ave., NW; mnh.si.edu, 202-633-1000

Iron Gate 1734 N St. NW; irongaterestaurantdc. com, 202-524-5202 This is a historic, romantic carriage house turned-restaurant, beckoning weary travelers with its original red booths and a roaring fireplace, also origi­­n­al, to the building. Cuisine is inspir­­ ed by foods of Greece and sout­hern Italy, fea­­tur­­ing mid-Atlantic produce.

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WOW Power to the people

Iron Gate.

Part of the Smithsonian Institution and home to a collection of 125 million natural science specimens and cultural artifacts, this free muse­­ um located on the National Mall is the mostvisited natural history museum in the world. It’s a favorite with kids but intrigues people of all ages.

Popular displays include dinosaur skeletons, natural gems and minerals, artifacts from early history, an insect zoo, and a live coral reef.

National Museum of American History 14th St. and Constitution Ave., NW; americanhistory.si.edu, 202-633-1000 Showcasing national treasures like Francis Scott Key’s “Star-Spangled Banner” manuscript to the ruby slipp­ ers of iconic film Wizard of Oz, this free Smithsonian museum also offers daily events and hands-on activities.

Embrace culture at the theater The Glass Menagerie: Now-Feb. 21 Ford’s Theater, 511 10th St., NW; fordstheatre.org, 202-347-4833

Unwind with third wave coffee Compass Coffee 1535 Seventh St., NW; compasscoffee.com After two U.S. marines befriended each other over a cup of coffee, they decided to bring a roastery and coffee shop to the Shaw neighborhood. On Tuesdays through Saturdays, stop by to watch seasonally-sourced beans being roasted at the back of the spacious cafe. Pastries, sandwiches and biscotti are served along with top-quality blends and single-origin brews sourced from Guatemala, Indonesia, Kona and more.

Ford’s Theater—the historic location of President Abraham Lincoln’s ass­ assination—celebrates his legacy and explores the concept of the American experience. Through Feb. 21, Tennessee Williams’ The Glass Menagerie, direct­ed by Mark Ramont, explores the visceral bonds of family.

In the play, sout­hern matriarch Amanda frets con­­stantly over her two live-in adult children—the painfully shy Laura and Laura’s restless poet brother, Tom.

WHALE WATCHING SEP OCT NOV DES JAN FEB MAR APR 09:00 09:00 09:00 09:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00 13:00

Price: Adults: 9.600 ISK Children (7-15) 50% OFF / Children (0-6) FREE C

M

Experience a divine culture: Feb. 16-21 John F. Kennedy Center for the Per­­form­­ing Arts, 2700 F St., NW; kennedy-center.org, 800-444-1324 Shen Yun Performing Arts’ Experience a Divine Culture takes you on a visceral experience to a time when the world was full of magic and splendor, as if everything on earth existed in harmony with heaven—a land of heroes and sages, dragons and phoenixes, emper­ ors and immortals. Tickets range from $60-$250.

FROM REYKJAVIK

The Wydown Coffee Bar.

The Wydown Coffee Bar 1924 14th St., NW; thewydown. com, 202-507-8411

Y

Buy your discounted tick on this fligh et t!

CM

MY

CY

This Zagat-rated trendy coffee hub garnered its following from itsCMY artisanal java and homey baked K goods. The narrow, industrial shop features pale wood accents and state-of-the-art brewing equipment that create a soft, cozy yet contemporary atmosphere. v

NORTHERN LIGHTS BY BOAT Washington DC/elephant display Natural History Museum.

Experience the winter warmth of Washington, D.C. WOW air will take you there from Europe all year round.

SEP OCT NOV DES JAN FEB MAR APR** 22:00 21:00* 21:00 21:00 21:00 21:00 21:00* 22:00 PRICE: Adults 9.600 ISK / Children (7-15) 50% OFF / Children (0-6) FREE 22:00 (01 Sep - 15 Oct & 15 March - 15 April) *21:00 (16 October - 14 March) **Until 15 April

Find cheap flights to Washington, D.C. from all around Europe with WOW air at wowair.com. Join our club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox.

Book online www.specialtours.is / info@specialtours.is Issue one 91 Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour

Destination Paris

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WOW Power to the people

A French road trip – Part II We’ll never stop loving Paris. Explore the city of art and romance and unwind among accordion players while walking the cobblestoned roads.

by Guðrún Baldvina Sævarsdóttir Photos: iStockphotos.com

Flying to Paris can be just the beginning if you fancy seeing a little more of the dreamlike country that is France. Why not rent a car and head out to see some of the other breathtaking and unbelievable sights France has to offer? Here are some highly recommended destinations just a few hours away from the city of love.

Photo: istockphotos.com / ventdusud

Mont Saint-Michel The fairytale destination of Mont Saint-Michel is just under four hours away on the northwest corner of France but offers a variety of good hotels and campsites if you want to spend the night. This ancient monastery situated on a tiny island just off the coast rises from the landscape, and approaching visitors can’t help but think they’ve stumbled into a Disney-movie in HD. Up close, these old and formidable walls reveal the island’s history in layers; the monastery, the prison, the fortress. The 44 inhabitants of the island receive over 3 million visitors a year and you’ll find plenty of souvenirs and rather expensive croissants on every corner but the thriving tourism doesn’t manage to overshadow the stunning effects of this place. Just don’t wander out onto the surrounding sands during low tides without a guide or you might get sucked into a sandpit!

After a visit to Giverny, you can carry on along the A13 until you reach Caen.

Half circle the city on the N814 and then get onto the A84/E3/E401/N175.

Take the exit toward Mont SaintMichel from N175 and continue on D43 following the signs for Mon SaintMichel.

Caen and the beaches of Normandy An hour and 20 minutes north of Mont Saint Michel you’ll find the city of Caen and close by are the beaches of Normandy and villages ravaged by the Second World War. The visible relics of D-Day and its aftermath are both breathtaking and heartbreaking so make sure you mix in plenty of good food and wine (try the famous cider or local butter for example!) and maybe even a lazy day on the beach.

An hour and 20 minutes north of Mont Saint Michel you’ll find the city of Caen and close by are the beaches of Normandy and villages ravaged by the Second World War.

Photo: istockphotos.com / Fischerfotowelt

Photo: Wikipedia / Myrabella

The Bayeux-tapestry Since you’re in the area, a mere half an hour west of Caen you’ll find the commune of Bayeux, home to the world famous and exquisite Bayeux-tapestry. This 70-meter long cloth depicting the events leading up to the Norman conquest is almost a whole millennia old yet has been incredibly well preserved and is nothing short of fascinating.

Try the local produce While driving on the country roads keep an eye out for hand­­ made signs pointing to a farm where you can buy pro­­duce straight from the farmer; fruits, vegetables, meats and best of all: the nut and olive oils! Always try to shop local produce from the region as it is the region’s specialty, made with a passion most other nations can only dream about. French cuisine is renowned for a reason and a big part of that reason is the quality of the products. Be aware that the French take their lunch breaks very seriously and almost everything shuts down between 12 and 2 PM (sometimes even 3 PM if they’re very relaxed). They’ll be enjoying their lunch at a nice restaurant with a good glass of wine before heading back to work a couple of hours later. Take a leaf out of their book; eat, drink and relax! v

We see Paris, we see France, we see you pack your traveling pants. WOW air offers cheap flights to France from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round. You can also make a WOW Stopover in Iceland on your way there or back.

Are you ready for a European road trip?

Pack your GPS and book your flight to Paris at wowair.com.

Issue one 93

Bottoms up

What’s brewing in Boston?

For beer lovers stopping at this New England hub this winter, be sure to check out Boston’s top brewery tours and essential beers, along with new up-and-coming breweries and brewpubs.

Text by Krista Connor Photos: The Boston Beer Company and iStockphotos.com / Marcio Silva

Everything Samuel Adams Tour of Original Samuel Adams Brewery 30 Germania St, Boston; samueladams.com, 617-368-5080 While this craft macrobrewery—the second largest in the United States—is arguably more commercial than craft, hopheads who stop by its headquarters for a tour will learn about the history of the Sam Adams brand, experience the brewing process, taste the special malts and smell the Hallertau hops used to brew the beers. Guests can also sample award-winning beers. Tours depart every 45 minutes and last about an hour.

Tours cannot be reserved in advance and are first-come, first-served, although tickets are free with a suggested $2 donation that benefits local charities. (For those from outside the United States or Canada, you must have your passport or a copy of it.

International licenses will not be accepted.)

New Sam Adams brews Brewed with real grapefruit for an added punch of citrusy goodness that amplifies the hops’ tropical notes, Sam Adams’ Rebel Grapefruit IPA (6.3 percent ABV) draft beer offers refreshingly bold and bright, thirstquenching satisfaction. Look for this yearround brew early this year at local bars and liquor stores.

Meanwhile, winter seasonal Black & Brew Coffee Stout (5.8 percent ABV), a pitch black brew crowned with a tan head, combines deep roasted coffee with a rich, full-bodied stout. One and a half pounds of Sumatran coffee beans per barrel are used to create the brew, with notes of chocolate, caramel and dark fruit. Grab a glass at a nearby pub or a six-pack at area liquor stores.

Lastly, in February, the brewery will distri­­bute a series of nitrogen-carbonated

beers—the biggest addition to the Samuel Adams lineup in years. These brews, availa­­ ble at liquor stores, include a white ale, an IPA and a coffee stout.

All-new brewery and brewpub Dorchester Brewing Company 1246 Massachusetts Ave., Boston; dorchesterbrewing.com Founded in 2014, Dorchester Brewing Com­­pany was created by a team of Boston professionals with a penchant for craft beer. Owners soon realized that there was a gap in the Boston industry for local, small to medium-sized craft beer brands and regional brewers to produce their product in a reliable manner. So, a 25,000 sq. ft. brewery with a tasting room has been built for the community, slated for opening spring 2016. Located in Dorchester—a Boston neighborhood—the brewery provides craft brewers with an opportunity to produce, package, store, sell, market and sample their beers in the tasting room in a collaborative, passionate environment. For guests seeking an ideal local, authentic experience, 20 revolving taps of these area and regional beers will be available from the friendly collaborators and independent brewers.

Winter Hill Brewing 328 Broadway, Somerville, Mass.; winterhillbrewing.com Minutes from downtown Boston, Somerville’s Winter Hill neighborhood has a new artisan coffee shop and a small craft brewpub Winter Hill Brewing, which opened in late January.

From the 40-foot bar made of antique barn wood to the outdoor patio, everything is freshly built and handcrafted, exemplifying some of the defining traits of craft beer culture: local, communal, creative. v

Is your liver ready for the beers of Boston? WOW air will take you there from Europe all year round and you can even make a WOW Stopover in Iceland on your way there or back.

Find cheap flights to Boston from all around Europe with WOW air at wowair.com.

Join our club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals sent directly to your inbox.

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Issue one 95

New destination

Frankfurt for fun WOW air now offers cheap flights to Frankfurt am Main, Germany‘s fifth-largest city and Europe‘s largest financial center. Full of pleasant surprises, Frankfurt is the only city in Germany that has big skyscrapers, who knew?

Photos: Thinkstockphotos.com

Frankfurt’s architecture and unique skyline display the city’s old re­­stored build­­ings, blending beauti­­­fully with a significant number of sky­­scrapers.

This is an unusual sight in a European city and Frankfurt is actually home to 14 out of Germany’s 15 skyscrapers.

Museums and history Frankfurt has more than 30 museums of great variety. We especially recom­­mend Liegieghaus, the Museum of modern Art and Städel, one of the most famous art museums in Germany. Frank­­­­furt is also the birthplace of Johann Wolfgang Goethe so a visit to Goethe-Haus is in order.

The historic heart of Frankfurt, known as Römerberg, is the center of the city‘s old town. Here you’ll find beautifully restored medieval buildings and the city hall, aka Römer, standing by the historic Paulsplatz square. Close by is the fa­­ mous Cathedral of St. Bart­holomew where you can climb up to the tower for a great view of the city.

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Close to Frankfurt is Trier, possibly the oldest city in Germany. Trier lies in a valley between low vine-covered hills of red sandstone on the banks of the Mosel River. From Trier, you can drive around the famous Moselle wine region.

Shopping If you’re planning on shopping dur­­­ing your vacation in Frankfurt you should head to Zeil, Frankfurt’s central shopping street. The pedes­ trian-only street, bordered by two large public squares is home to the main shopping chains of the world.

For smaller shops and a quieter shopping experience head to Berger Strasse, Frankfurt’s longest shopp­­ing street. Food lovers should look for Fressgass (also known as Kalbächer Gasse) a pedestrian street in the city center but also Kais­­erstrasse and the bustling

food market at Kleinmarkthalle where you can find regional delicacies like the famous “green sauce”.

Get out of town Close to Frankfurt is Trier, possibly the oldest city in Germany. Trier lies in a valley between low vine-covered hills of red sandstone on the banks of the Mosel River. From Trier, you can drive around the famous Moselle wine region. Moselle is one of Germany’s 13 wine regions and the best known internationally, producing quality wines mostly from Riesling grapes. Wine enthusiasts should not miss the chance to taste Moselle wines in their natural environment. A visit to Trier and the Moselle wine region is perfect for a day trip (or more) out of Frankfurt. v

Wining and dining, Frankfurt has it all. At the end of May, WOW air will start flying to Frankfurt (FRA) all year round. Frankfurt’s central location within Germany and Europe makes it a major transport hub and Frankfurt Airport (FRA), one of the world‘s busiest international airports, has connections to virtually all corners of the world.

Find flights from USA, Canada and Iceland to Frankfurt am Main at wowair.com. You can even make a WOW Stopover in Iceland on your way there or back. Join our club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals sent directly to your inbox.

All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890 SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL:

• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is Issue one 97

ns WOW destinatio

You want more?

WOW! We’ve been announcing a lot of new destinations recently but that doesn’t mean that our established routes have been forgotten.

WOW air has well over 20 destinations and there are still more to come. You can also check out our destinations at wowair.com.

London London has been on our schedule from the beginning and for good reason. This sprawling metropolis is a popular destination all over the world. It’s sort of like a rite of passage for travelers; you have to visit at least once. And if you’ve already been there you can go the other way from Gatwick airport and visit the beautiful Brighton.

Alicante Warm up by the Mediterranean Sea and taste the best of Spain.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Alicante from Iceland four times a week during the summer months and 1-3 times a week from March to May and September to January.

Amsterdam A city of art, architecture, cool people and canals, and don’t forget windmills, weird wooden shoes and tulips. Amsterdam is a fairytale and a great place to visit.

WOW air offers cheap flights* to Amsterdam from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round.

Barcelona Barcelona truly is the perfect destination; tasty tapas, seaside promenades and mind-blowing architecture.

Getting there is the easy part. WOW air offers 2-4 flights a week to Barcelona from Iceland from the middle of May until October.

Copenhagen The former capital of Iceland is still a favorite among Icelanders and now’s your chance to find out why.

WOW air offers several flights* a week to Copenhagen from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round.

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WOW air offers cheap flights* to London from USA, Canada and Iceland several times a week, all year round.

Dublin Ireland’s capital has become a modern European city without losing the grip on its Irish roots and just a stone’s throw away is the spectacular Irish nature.

Lyon Experience the gastronomic capital of France with all its history and vibrant cultural scene.

WOW air offers several flights* a week to Dublin from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round.

WOW air flies to Lyon from Iceland twice a week during the summer months.

Düsseldorf This great city on the Rhine is famous for its art and culture, luxury fashion and lifestyle.

WOW air flies to Düsseldorf, Germany from Iceland twice a week during the summer months.

Milan Get ready for high fashion and high culture and don’t forget to feast your eyes on da Vinci’s Last Supper.

WOW air flies to Milan, Italy from Iceland 2-3 times a week from June to September.

Gran Canaria The city of Las Palmas in Gran Canaria is a new destination because we love getting our guests into the sun during the winter.

Nice Join us in the capital of the French Riviera and let the Mediterranean climate warm you up.

WOW air offers weekly flights to Gran Canaria from Iceland from February to May 2016.

WOW air flies to Nice from Iceland two times a week from June to September.

Rome All roads lead to Rome but we’re going to fly to this most famous world capital.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Rome from Iceland once a week from the end of June to September.

Stockholm The capital of Sweden is a city of contrasts, an urban paradise full of fun and history but with a relaxed and modern atmosphere.

WOW air will start flying to Stockholm in May, offering several flights* a week from USA, Canada and Iceland.

Warsaw The capital of Poland has some historic charisma and is a great destination if you’re on a budget.

Salzburg Looking for that perfect winter destination?

European ski resorts are known for being budget friendly and the Austrian Alps’ best ski resorts are just a short drive from Salzburg Airport.

Pack your skis; WOW air flies to Salzburg from Iceland once a week from December to March.

Tenerife Relaxing on a tropical island sounds like a dream and Tenerife is a dream come tru WOW air will start flying to Stockholm in May, offering several flights* a week from USA, Canada and Iceland.

Vilnius Are you hungry for something different? Visit the capital of Lithuania and see the UNESCO World Heritage listed Old Town.

WOW air offers flights between Vilnius and Iceland once a week during the summer.

WOW air offers flights to Warsaw from Iceland three times a week during the summer months and weekly from September to January and in April and May. * Note that the availability of connecting flights between USA and Europe may vary depending on the flight frequency to each city. WOW air connects London, Bristol, Dublin, Berlin, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Paris and Stockholm to Boston, Washington, D.C., Los Angeles and San Francisco in the US and Toronto and Montréal in Canada.

Issue one 99

This and that …

mostly this

Street, I am your namesake!

Reykjavik’s city council really outdid itself last December when they changed the name of a street to Svarthöfði, the Icelandic name of Darth Vader. The street, formerly known as Bratthöfði, does not have any residential houses, although we won’t be surprised if Icelandic Star Wars fans will try Jedi mind tricking the city council into changing that. The name change suggestion came through betrireykjavik.is, a website where residents of Reykjavik can make suggestions for improving the city. This is not the first time a street is named after a fictional character. Many streets in Reykjavik are named after characters from the Icelandic sagas.

Guðrúnargata (Guðrún’s Street) is named after Guðrún Ósvífursdóttir, who in her story Laxdæla Saga, was the love interest of both Kjartan and Bolli, two men who fought to death for her love.

It’s only fitting that her street lies between the two, Bollagata (Bollis’s Street) and Kjartansgata (Kjartan’s Street).

by Fjóla Helgadóttir

Bieber’s Purpose World Tour comes to Iceland Looks like Justin Bieber really enjoyed Iceland when he visited us last fall. Bieber has chosen Iceland to open up the European leg of his Purpose World Tour in September 2016, exactly one year after he shot the music video for his song “I’ll show you” at various

locations in Iceland. And it looks like Icelanders really enjoy Bieber as well, as tickets to his show sold out immediately after ticket sales were opened. The demands after tickets far exceeded the supply so a second concert was added which is now almost sold out.

Forty thousand tickets were sold for both shows, making about 12 percent of the entire Icelandic population, ticket holders to Bieber’s concert. How about them statistics?

Want to see both Bieber and Iceland? There might still be a few tickets left at tix.is—they’re probably the last Bieber tickets available in the whole of Europe as all his shows have now sold out.

Are you ready for Secret Solstice 2016?

The lineup for this year’s Secret Solstice Festival is massive! Artists performing this year include Radiohead, Of Monsters and Men, Deftones, Jamie Jones and a whopping 130 other. The festival will be held in Reykjavik on June 17–19, 2016. Want to know more? Turn to pages 18-22 for a recap of 2015’s festival and more information on Secret Solstice 2016. Thermal pool parties and partying in the midnight sun? Count us in!

Jagger, Scorsese and Kaleo!

When living legends like Martin Scorsese and Mick Jagger contact you for a song you wrote, it’s safe to say you’ve got it made! The duo are executive producers to a new TV series called Vinyl which premiers on HBO in February.

Icelandic rock band Kaleo has their song “No Good” featured in the series as well as the series trailer. Vinyl is set in the 1970’s music business where sex, drugs and rock’n’roll are the norms. The series stars Bobby Cannavale, Ray Romano and Olivia Wilde to name a few.

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Naked guy in a box anyone?

A student of the Icelandic Arts Academy performed an interesting act as his final assignment at school.

The student, Almar Atlason, decided to live in a box for a week. The interesting part of his act? He did it while completely naked and the whole thing was broadcast live on YouTube.

The Icelandic press had a field day and kept us pretty much updated the whole time. Like during his bowel movements or when he had other human needs. Let’s leave it at that.

Just Google it.

This and that …

mostly this

Skyr available in the UK

Iceland meets Bollywood First Bieber, now Bollywood! Indian actors and super­­ stars Shah Rukh Khan and Kajol visited Iceland last summ­­er to shoot a music video for their song “Gerua.”

Among shooting locations were the beautiful Skógafoss

and Sól­­heimasandur. The music video is a part of the movie Dilwale. Shah Rukh Khan is one of the highest paid actors in Bollywood and is often referred to as “The King of Bollywood.”

Those who have visited Iceland undoubtedly have tasted skyr, yogurt’s bodybuilding brother, in all its creamy glory. Now, Icelandic dairy company MS is starting their launch of skyr in the UK. It seems like there has been some confusion in the UK lately about skyr but you can all breathe easy now, the real Icelandic skyr is coming, available at the Waitrose supermarket!

“Great first meal in Reykjavik” “Amazing food, excellent staff” “Best restaurant in Iceland”

Scandinavian cuisine Hönnun: Marknet ehf.

Enjoy a four course Icelandic set menu in one of Reykjaviks oldest buildings

Lækjarbrekka restaurant - Bankastraeti 2, 101 Reykjavik - Tel: (+354) 551 4430 - www.laekjarbrekka.is - info@laekjarbrekka.is Issue one 101

This and that …

mostly this

30 years of Eurovision 2016 marks the 30th anniversary of Iceland’s first try at winning the Eurovision Song Contest. Back in 1986, Icelanders were pretty sure they’d win the famed song contest with their song “Gleðibankinn” (Bank of Joy). Unfortunately, for the national ego, we wound up in 16th place. Not bad for a first timer, eh? In honor of our ridiculous optimism, and the 30 years we’ve kept on trying, some of Eurovision’s most memorable performers will celebrate our persistence at the preliminary show in Laugardalshöll where Icelanders will choose their candidate for Eurovision 2016. Names include Loreen from Sweden, who will sing her winning song from 2012 “Euphoria,” and Sandra Kim from Belgium who, in 1986, at 13 years old, was the youngest person to ever to win Eurovision.

Eurovision will gain extra hip points by adding some of the cool cats in the Icelandic music scene. Guys like Unnsteinn Manuel and Logi Pedro of Retro Stefson, newcomer Sturla Atlas and the awesome Högni Egilsson of Hjaltalín are scheduled to perform. The whole shebang will take place on the 20th of February at Laugardalshöll in Reykjavik.

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Laugavegur 130 við Hlemm TEL : 5522444, 692- 0564

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WOW Power to the people

many famous people are regulars here

RESTAURANT

www.banthai.is

--------------------------------------------------------------------------

BanThai

“

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NEW AWARD

Icelandic music nominated for awards Icelandic music is the gift that keeps on giving and we wouldn’t mind giving it awards if we had the chance! Luckily we’re not the only ones who feel that way as Björk has been nominated for a Grammy for her album Vulnicura in the category Best Alternative Music Album. This is Björk’s 14th nomination no less, so hopefully she will finally win this year! Jóhann Jóhannsson is also nominated

for a Grammy Award for his score in The Theory of Everything. He won the Golden Globe for that score and was nominated for an Oscar. He’s now been nominated for a BAFTA Award and an Oscar Award for his score in Sicario, starring Josh Brolin. Also up for a Grammy Award are our beloved Of Monsters and Men for their deluxe box set of “Beneath the Skin.” Let’s hope they all win!

All hail the Norse god Þór!

If you’re visiting Iceland in mid-January through February, chances are you’ll witness what we Icelanders call “Þorrablót.” Þorri is the name of the personification of winter in Norse mythology and is the old name of the fourth month of winter, from mid-January to midFebruary. Since pre-Christian times Icelanders have celebrated the month of Þorri with its mid-winter feast Þorrablót, honoring Þór the Norse god of thunder. At these feasts, Icelanders stick to their age-old menu of sour ram testicles, singed and boiled sheep heads and fresh or pickled sviðasulta, a delicious meat jelly made from a lamb’s head.

Drinks served with this combination of food need a serious a volume of alcohol which is provided by the Icelandic Brennivín, typically served cold in a shot glass. Eat, drink and be merry at Þorrablót, only a few more months of winter left, hurray!

This and that …

mostly this

Hasta la vista, baby!

The Icelandic phonebook will soon be history!

2016 will mark the last year the phonebook will be printed, ending its 111 year publication.

Icelanders, and everyone else will still be able to find addresses and phone numbers as before, on the web page ja.is, the online phonebook. Some might say this is the end of an era while others say that this is a good choice for the environment.

We say it looks like everyone’s about to get more calls from their grandfather who can’t remember the number for the post office. Use your old phonebook grandpa, their number hasn’t changed since last year!

Daily tours

all year round

Photo: iStockphotos.com / VukasS

e golden circ h T le

The Rams strike again

a on

super truc k

nowmobilin ds g an Sigurður Sigurjónsson and Theodór Júlíusson, the actors who play brothers in the multiaward-winning Icelandic film Rams, recently won an award as best actors in a foreign film at the Palm Springs International Film Festival. Rams has swept up awards at every film festival, the Un Certain Regard Award at the 2015 Cannes Film Festival and the Golden Eye, the main prize as Best International Feature Film at the International Film Festival in Zurich last October. Go Rams!

TV Series based on true events

The Coldest City starring Jóhannes Haukur Icelandic actor Jóhannes Haukur Jóhannesson is set to star in the movie The Coldest City alongside Charlize Theron and James McAvoy. The movie is not set in Iceland despite its title but Berlin and tells the story of undercover spies in the cold war and the wake of the collapse of the Berlin Wall. Jóhannes Haukur is not the only Icelander involved in the film as Elísabet Ronaldsdóttir is set to edit it. Jóhannes Haukur also stars in at least two episodes in season six of Game of Thrones so it looks like he’s going places!

Syco Entertainment, Simon Cowell’s Production Company, has bought the rights to the book Höll Minninganna by Icelandic author and executive vice president at Time Warner, Ólafur Jóhann Ólafsson. Cowell intends to make a TV series based on the book, which tells the story of an Icelandic man who disappears from his family one night shortly after World War II. The man moves to New York City and becomes a butler at a wealthy man’s household. The book is inspired by true events!

Elska Magazine in Iceland Elska Magazine is a bi-mon­ thly male photography, culture and travel print publication.

Each issue is shot in a differ­ ent city, showcasing only local men and accompanying their pictorial spreads with a personal story written by each. Issue three of Elska Magazine was shot in Reykjavík depicting Ice­ landic nature as well as the Icelandic men in their home surroundings.

Tel. (+354) 580 9900 ice@mountaineers.is www.mountaineers.is

Your Ticket to Adventure Issue one 103

Hey

look!

What’s going on over here?

Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on.

WHAT: Himbrimi Concert WHEN: February 12 WHERE: Tjarnarbíó Cinema, Reykjavik Himbrimi celebrates the release of their debut album, Himbrimi, with a concert at Tjarnarbíó in Reykjavik.

Accompanying them on stage is a string orchestra and backup vocals.

The album was funded on Karolina Fund and was released last November both on CD and vinyl. The band was nominated last year for numerous awards in Iceland, including best new band and Margrét as best singer.

Songs you can expect to hear: “Give me more,” “Highway,” and “Tearing,” all of which have entered the charts at the biggest radio stations in Iceland.

Band members are Margrét Rúnars­­ dóttir; vocals and piano, Birkir Rafn Gíslason; guitar, Hálfdán Árnason; bass, Egill Örn Rafnsson; drums and Skúli Arason; synthesizers.

WHAT: Kvika – dance theater WHEN: March 3, 5, 12, 13 and 15 WHERE: Þjóðleikhúsið – National Theater of Iceland, Reykjavik Kvika by choreographer Katrín Gunnarsdóttir is a group performance. The piece focuses on the physical presence and the energy taking place between performer and audience. Dance has its own language and this is a great way to experience Iceland‘s culture without any language barriers.

Tickets are available at midi.is Tickets are available at midi.is.

WHAT: Skonrokk WHEN: March 18 and 19 WHERE: Austurbær, Reykjavik and Hof, Akureyri Glam metal lovers unite! An 80’s rock concert extravaganza will take place both in Reykjavik and in the capital of North Iceland, Akureyri at the Hof Concert Hall. Icelandic rock legends perform classics from all your favorite bands of this hairspray infested decade. The songs of Kiss, Queen, AC/ DC, Metallica and so many more will come alive on stage during this not to be missed concert.

Book your tickets at midi.is

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WHAT: Reykjavik Bar Summit WHEN: February 29 – March 3 WHERE: Downtown Reykjavik The Reykjavik Bar Summit is an annual event where bartenders from around the world compete in preparing drinks, creativity and more. The bar community celebrates a mutual love of cocktails with parties and scheduled events around Reykjavik.

For more information go to: www.reykjavikbarsummit.com Tickets are available at tix.is

WHAT: Jimmy Carr – Funny Business WHEN: March 4 and March 6 WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall, Reykjavik and Hof, Akureyri Jimmy Carr is back in Iceland with his brand new comedy show “Funny Business.” Two shows are scheduled, one in Akureyri and one in Reykjavik.

Guests are advised to leave their sense of decency at home.

Tickets are available at tix.is

by Fjóla Helgadóttir Photos: From respective events

WHAT: The Volcano House Exhibition WHEN: From 10 am – 9 pm every day of the week WHERE: Tryggvagata 11, Reykjavik The Volcano House is a good place to visit to learn about the geology of Iceland both via their exhibition and hourly screenings of two documentaries that tell the stories of the most famous eruptions in Iceland.

The Emmy-nominated documentary Eyjafjallajökull from 2011 focuses on the eruption in Eyjafjallajökull which interfered with air traffic in all of Europe in 2010. The second documentary tells the story of the eruption in Westman Island in 1973. The exhibition in the Volcano House is a geological one where you can hold lava from the 2014 eruption in Bárðarbunga and ash from the eruption in Eyjafjallajökull. The exhibition includes samples of numerous minerals such as lava, pumice and semiprecious stones and breathtaking photographs of past eruptions.

Show times of documentaries in English are every hour on the hour.

For more information go to: www.volcanohouse.is

WHAT: Yoga Moves WHEN: February 11 WHERE: Gamla Bíó, Reykjavik Yoga Moves celebrates their two-year anniversary by throwing a powerful yoga, dance and medi­­ tation party. Yoga Moves was created by Tómas Oddur Eiríksson of the Dansverkstæði in Reykjavik.

People get together in a melt of dance, yoga and meditation accompanied with live music, a vari­­ety of deep-house/ disco/ tech. Comfortable clothes are recommended and yoga mats will be available.

Book your ticket at midi.is

taste the best of iceland... ... in one amazing meal icelandic gourmet feast Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic spirit Brennívín Followed by seven delicious tapas

late night dining Our kitchen is open until 23:30 on weekdays and 01:00 on weekends

Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa Lobster tails baked in garlic Pan-fried line caught blue ling with lobster-sauce Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina Minke Whale with cranberry & malt-sauce White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion fruit coulis

7.590 kr.

RESTAURANT- BAR Vesturgötu 3B | 101 Reykjavík | Tel. 551 2344 | www.tapas.is Issue one 105

What’s going on over here?

WHAT: Völuspá Symphony WHEN: February 14 WHERE: Hof, Akureyri Based on the poems of Völuspá, Prophecy of the Völva, this symphonic work, composed by Þorvaldur Bjarni Þorvaldsson, is a collaboration of a symphony orchestra, a choir and a female lead singer as the prophetess or Völva. Völuspá tells the history of the world, from the beginning of time until the end of the world at Ragnarök. Völuspá is one of the most important primary sources of Norse mythology.

Tickets are available at tix.is

WHAT: Eivor – concert WHEN: February 27 and 28 WHERE: Gamla Bíó, Reykjavík and Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri The amazing singer from the Faroe Islands and adopted daughter of Iceland, Eivor, celebrates the release of her tenth album, Slör, with two concerts, one in Reykjavik and one in Akureyri. Songs on the album are sung in Faroese and the album has been very well received.

Limited tickets available at tix.is

WHAT: Stand-up comedy How to become Icelandic in 60 minutes WHEN: Various dates all year round WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall, Reykjavik In one hour, Bjarni Haukur Þórsson promises to teach his audience how to become Icelandic. From tix.is: “The show is much more than a stand-up comedy routine, it is a hilarious blend of incisive and visual observation of the Icelandic human condition, their attitudes, struggles and everyday life. You will laugh and learn, and at the end of the show leave the theater feeling 100% Icelandic.”

WHAT: Chris Cornell WHEN: March 23 WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall, Reykjavik Chris Cornell starts his “Higher Truth” European tour right here in Iceland in March in follow up of his recent successful US tour. The concert is unplugged where Cornell plays songs from his career back to Soundgarden and Audioslave, including songs from his new album, Higher Truth. One of the pioneers of the “grunge” era in the 90’s, Cornell has received numerous Grammy awards and nominations, including a Golden Globe nomination for his song “The Keeper” from the film Machine Gun Preacher (2011).

Tickets are available at tix.is

Tickets are available at tix.is

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Hey

look!

Sharing is caring

WHAT: Iceland Symphony Orchestra – Open rehearsals WHEN: Thursday mornings, February - June WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall, Reykjavik

WOW!

The Iceland Symphony Orchestra has an open rehearsal each Thursday morning from February to June. Bear in mind that the rehearsal is a working rehearsal and as such the program might not be played in its entirety.

Tickets are available at tix.is

We’re so social Active on social media? So are we and we love sharing great photos, travel tips, good deals and other fun things on our many social media outlets as well as to our WOW Club members.

Face to face Find WOW air on Facebook – facebook.com/wowiceland – hit that “like” button and add us to your favorites. Then help us share the WOW. We promise not to fill up your newsfeed with boring stuff or click-tag games. Perhaps just a cute kitten video once a year.

Instant karma We’re on Instagram too but we only use it to share good photos and we never Instagram our coffee; that’s a promise … unless it’s really, really good coffee. Follow @wowair on Instagram for great travel inspiration or just to see beautiful places. Let us see the best of your travel photos by adding #wowair to you photos.

Tweet it We love tweeting @wow_air. It’s so much more of a challenge to have to put out the message in 140 characters or less, right? WOW air also has a special twitter page for queries and comments @wowairsupport where our social media team is ready to give feedback during local business hours.

WHAT: Tectonics Music Festival WHEN: April 16-17 WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall, Reykjavik Tectonics is presented by Iceland Symphony Orchestra at Harpa Concert Hall, curated by Ilan Volkov. The fifth edition of Tectonics Reykjavík Festival will take place in Reykjavik as well as in other parts of the world including Adelaide Festival with Adelaide Symphony Orchestra, Glasgow with BBC Scottish Symphony Orchestra and with Only Connect Festival.

Numerous artists are scheduled this year including Robyn Schulkowsky, Alvin Curran, Stephen O’Malley, Jon Rose and Joel Stern, as well as performances by experimental duos Part Wild Horses Mane On Both Sides and Usurper. The Iceland Symphony Orchestra premieres works by Áki Ásgeirsson, Magnús Pálsson, Kristín Þóra Haraldsdóttir, Hlynur Aðils Vilmarsson and Úlfur Hansson.

Oh snap!

Add wow-air to your list of snappy friends and watch videos and photos from our destinations created—for your eyes only.

Join the club WOW air has a special club for cool people and you’re invited. Club members receive regular club emails and will always be the first to know when we put out our awesome deals on flights. Sign up at wowair.com/wowairclub and join our posse. v

Get your ticket at tix.is

Issue one 107

What’s going on over here?

The movie lover’s paradise

It’s good to find something indoorsy to do in Iceland in February and March, and Bíó Paradís is here for just that, and more. Bíó Paradís is a nonprofit organization run by Iceland’s professional filmmaking guilds. Located in the heart of downtown Reykjavík, at Hverfisgata 54, it is also Iceland’s first and only art-house cinema, screening the latest art house releases from all around the world, as well as cult films and Icelandic films. The theater provides a warm, cozy environment for film lovers of all kinds—both in its three-screen theater and its well-stocked bar.

Cemetery of Splendour by Apichatpong Weerasethakul tells the story of Jenjira, a volunteer at a small clinic that cares for soldiers suffering from a mysterious sleeping illness. The film creates an enchanted world where the present coexists with the past, dreams are real, and magic emerges from the mundane.

Hey

look!

What: Stockfish Film Festival When: February 18-28 Where: Bíó Paradís Stockfish Film Festival takes place Febru­ ary 18-28 at Bíó Paradís. It aims to create a platform in Reykjavík to encourage collaboration between domestic and international film communities. It appeals to both people in the film industry and those who are interested in the well-being of international filmmaking. The festival will screen some of the most up-and-coming art house films in the world and invite international filmmakers to discuss the state of filmmaking, the film industry and community.

Among films this year is Son of Saul by Lásló Nemes. Saul is a Hungarian Jewish prisoner in the Nazi concentration camps. As a rebellion rises Saul decides to carry out the impossible task of giving a boy, whom he has taken as a son, a proper burial.

The Assassin by Hou Hsiao-Hsien is a grandiose martial-arts epic about the mysterious Yinniang who works as an assassin in ninth century China, sent to kill a powerful lord who was once her betrothed.

Two Icelandic films will also be shown at Stockfish this year; The Show of Shows by Benedikt Erlingsson (director of Of Horses and Men) where Sigur Rós members team up with Hilmar Örn Hilmarsson to score a documentary on the history of vaudeville, circuses and carnivals and End of Summer

by Icelandic composer Jóhann Jóhannsson, an experimental film, that takes you on a hypnotic and slow-burning journey through the austere landscapes of the island of South Georgia and the Antarctic Peninsula.

What: German Film Days When: March 10-20 Where: Bíó Paradís

What: Black Sunday When: Every Sunday at 8 pm Where: Bíó Paradís Every Sunday is Black Sunday at Bíó Paradís where a special team of experts program old cult classic films that are shown in Bíó Paradís. The films are curated by Hugleikur Dagsson the famous cartoonist/comedian, Sjón, renowned author and Sigurjón Kjartansson, one of Iceland’s bestknown screenwriter / comedian / musicians. Black Sunday’s weekly screenings are, of course, on Sundays at 8 pm.

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The Look of Silence by Joshua Oppenheimer is a follow-up to The Act of Killing, one of the most powerful documentaries of the 21st century. This time, the director focuses on the victim’s perspective.

Victoria by Sebastian Shipper is a thrilling heist-movie about Victoria who is entangled in a web of crime and hunted by the police. The film is shot in one single take which earned it the Berlinale Silver Bear for Outstanding Artistic Contribution.

Coming up in March at Bíó Paradís are The German Film Days. German cinemaphiles and others can enjoy current German Cinema, films that are programmed with high quality in mind. The German Film Days are organized in cooperation with the Goethe-Institut Dänemark and the German Embassy in Reykjavík.

Check out the Bíó Paradís Screening Schedule at: www.bioparadis.is Facebook: facebook.com/bioparadis Instagram and Twitter: @bioparadis

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Issue one 109

Aries

21 March - 19 April You have been sticking to your new year’s resolution but it’s really not working out for you and pretty soon it will make you wildly unpopular among both your friends and coworkers. Who makes the resolution to quit using soap anyway?

Taurus

20 April - 20 May Those weird presents you gave to your family for Christmas are coming back to haunt you.

Pretty soon it will be your birthday and they’ll want to get back at you. Don’t say the stars didn’t warn you.

Libra

23 September - 23 October A coworker steals your packed lunch and you lose your mind. The stars are all about proper office etiquette and stealing someone’s lunch ranks pretty high on the list of What NOT to Do, but slashing his tires … was that really necessary?

Scorpio

24 October - 21 November Stay away from spicy food offered by questionable food vendors. We’re not kidding! Oh, and don’t eat yellow snow either!

Sagittarius Gemini

21 May - 21 June It’s flu season and because you’re Gemini it will hit you double. Luckily you’ll get those two-for-one offers at the pharmacy.

Get well soon.

Cancer

22 November - 21 December You’re very earthbound these days (unless you’re on an airplane right now) but this resolution of yours, to get more connected to Mother Earth by walking barefoot all the time will prove to be problematic. Those delicate feet weren’t made to brave the winter cold.

22 June - 22 July

Capricorn

Despite your intentions to face your biggest fear this year, that green stuff growing inside your refrigerator is still there and now has its own Facebook page and Instagram account.

Get your act together or it will soon take over your lease and kick you out of the apartment.

22 December - 19 January Because it’s January and you’re a Capricorn you’ve been making lists and plans for the year. The stars are laughing but please carry on; it’s such great source of entertainment for us.

Leo

Aquarius

23 July - 22 August Well, look at you all happy and smug. Think you’re king of the world don’t you? We’re onto you and we know you sent those valentine hearts and flowers to yourself. The stars see an actual love interest in your near future, no need to be desperate.

20 January - 18 February You’ll get lucky this year but please refrain from putting an “unexpected” lottery win on your financial plan for the year 2016. It’s not that kind of luck.

Pisces Virgo

23 August - 22 September You’ve taken up meditation and realize that you do actually have an inner voice. The stars want to warn you about taking it too seriously.

It’s going tell you all kinds of weird things like not to worry about the future, live in the now and crazy stuff like that. You don’t need that kind of negativity in your life.

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19 February - 20 March The future is stressing you out and your tendency to paint everything in the blackest of colors is really holding you back. But don’t you worry. It’s gonna be alright.

Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsence. Any accuracies, real or imagined by readers, are purely incidental.

Issue one 111

WOW Sudoku But how do I do it?

Really, really bored? Here are a few sudokus to make time fly.

The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: Each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler?

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Issue one 113

The Traveling Inquisition

The Icelandic wizard at IKEA Sigríður Heimisdóttir, also known as Sigga Heimis, is an Icelandic industrial designer who studied in Milano. She once worked for Fritz Hansen as a design manager, she runs her own company/studio in Iceland and for the past two years, she has worked as a range manager at the headquarters of IKEA in Sweden. She lives both in Iceland and Sweden and travels every week between the two countries. When asked to choose one favorite place in Iceland she chooses three: Yes three; as you may know, Iceland is a country full of magical places.

It’s like a box of chocolates with plenty of choices. Bon appétit.

by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: From private collection

“I studied industrial design in Milan, Italy. I actually adore Italy and I lived there for five years. Italians have such an important place in the history of design and it felt natural to study there. I really appreciated that and apart from Italian design, I thoroughly enjoyed the Italian culture and the people I got to know there. In the future, I plan to get a permanent place in Italy so I can spend more time there with my family.”

Sigga says her life today is pretty hectic. “I divide my time be­­tween Iceland and Sweden as I work as a range manager at the head­­quart­­ers of IKEA in a little town in the south of Sweden named Älmhult. My work is to supervise the development of cooking, eating and decoration which includes a huge number of articles from IKEA. It is a big job but incredibly interesting as I can have an impact on how things will develop in the world within people’s homes. And IKEA is a company that I really enjoy working for as I share many of the companies values and ambitions.”

“I divide my time be­­tween Iceland and Sweden as I work as a range manager at the head­­quart­­ers of IKEA in a little town in the south of Sweden named Älmhult.”

Three kids, a boyfriend and a dog Even though Sigga divides her time between Iceland and Sweden, her home is in Iceland where she lives with her three children. Anna Lovisa is twelve, Baltasar is ten and Heimir is nine.

“I also have a boyfriend, Daddi, and a dog, Tinna, so you see there is a lot to come home to. Therefore, I fly a few times a week for this to all work out. It might seem tiring but for me it’s normal and I really don’t mind, however I do choose to fly as easy and convenient as possible.”

Sigga also travels a lot for pleasure. “Milan, Lyon and Barcelona are only a few of the destinations that I have been to and I can warmly recommend all of them.”

Three magical places Yes, Sigga loves to travel, whether it’s for business or pleasure. “I have a true passion for working with young design talents and I have been involved with design schools all over the world. I will do more of that for IKEA in the coming years, and I truly look forward to it. I have worked with schools all over; from Moscow to Tokyo to Mexico City. Observing what students in the field are doing is hugely rewarding. It gives a great picture of what to expect in the future and how this field will evolve. The changes coming are dramatic.”

Then there’s Iceland, the country where the fire plays with the ice and the darkness plays with the light. “I try to travel as much as I can in my own country. I used to work as a guide years ago as there was a big need for people that could speak Italian. I really loved getting on the bus, riding around my beautiful country and introducing it to our guests.”

What is Sigga’s favorite place in Iceland?

“Choosing one favorite place is hard to do.

Iceland has so many sides and variations. It’s like choosing a favorite color. For me, to pick out one is impossible. However, I want to mention the Westman Islands, a place that is high on the list of my many favorites. Another one is Þórsmörk; wandering in that place is like walking through a painting. It is incredibly beauti­ful. Then I want to mention the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. There are some amazing, magical places there that you don’t want to miss. All these places are quite accessible and easy for tourists to get to. v

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Issue one 115 www.cintamani.is | Bankastræti 7 | Austurhraun 3 | Smáralind | Kringlan

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