Wowair 2016 issue 2

e azin mag Issue two 2016

Trapped star Ólafur Darri Ólafsson Plus: Top 10 Must Do’s ON A NIGHT out in Reykjavik

y o u r f r e e c o p y -ta k e m e w i t h y o u

WHATEVER THE WEATHER...

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We love the feeling of being in sync with nature, of being part of something bigger than ourselves. This is reflected in how we design and create outdoor wear.

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HOTEL GEYSIR elegaNt restauraNts, spa with hot spriNg jacuzzi, beautiful Nature & fuN activities

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Welcome,

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WOW Power to the people

W E LC O M E TO G EYSIR the geysir ceNter is directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great geysir aNd strokkur e

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geysir glima bistro Coffee house With freshly ground Coffee sWeet iCe Creams & Cakes traditional iCelandiC meat soup fish soup & vegetarian soup loCal food museum of hot springs, volCano and iCelandiC glima

The geysir cenT er haukadalur www.geysircenter.com / www.geysirglima.com / tel: +354 480 6800 / geysir@geysircenter.is www.facebook.com/hotelgeysir / www.twitter.com/hotelgeysir Issue two 5

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WOW Power to the people

We look forward to seeing you Please book in advance at bluelagoon.is

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In this issue 10 A letter from the CEO 12 WOW Cyclothon WOW Cyclothon is a solo or relay bike race around Iceland, a charity event and an absolutely unique way to experience Icelandic nature around the summer solstice.

Power to the people – Issue two 2016

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16 Get around Reykjavik Reykjavik is more than just a destination.

Get more out of Reykjavik and more for your money with the Reykjavik City Card.

18 Top 10 Must Do’s on a night

out in Reykjavik The title really says it all, doesn’t it?

Have a great trip.

Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir, editor in chief magazine@wow.is

WOW magazine staff Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman Contributing writers: Marvin Lee Dupree, Svava Jónsdóttir, Gerður Harðardóttir, Einar Skúlason, Fjóla Helgadóttir, Cindy-Lou Dale, Judy Colbert, Michael Kew, berlinur.de, WakeUpReykjavik.com; Paul Michael Herman and Lisa Merkey.

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Tel: 00 354 590 3020 E-mail: magazine@wow.is

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PRENTGRIPUR

Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit from publisher.

82 Take a hike Djúpalón and Dritvík on the Snæfells­ nes Peninsula are both breathtakingly gorgeous, where the black lava meets the sea and creates troll-like rock formations.

WOW Power to the people

112 The adventurous Edinburgh WOW air recently added fair Edinburgh to its schedule and will start flying to the Scottish capital at the beginning of July 2016.

34 The name of the game Iceland has one of Europe’s largest shops for fantasy, sci-fi and gaming. Nexus is a true paradise for the geek within us all.

84 Akureyri – Face of the North For those who want to explore the unique features and hidden gems of North Iceland, there is no better base than Akureyri.

36 Eastern tranquility East Iceland is like heaven on earth for those who love fjords and majestic nature but watch out for dragons!

86 The Vatnajokull Region Filled with contrasts, the Vatnajökull Region is a great destination all year round.

122 What’s going on? …quite a lot, actually.

88 The U.S. Customs Declaration Form What is this? Why do I need to fill this out?

126 WOW horoscope What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed astrologist has the answer.

66 Iceland from above Enrico Pescantini shot this great aerial photo of Thrihnukagigar Volcano near Reykjavik last summer.

94 Montréal’s Biosphere Some World’s Fair buildings have continued to function long after the rest of the fair has become a distant memory. The Biosphere in Montréal is one of them.

128 Bored on board?

Solve these sudokus.

68 Living on the edge For the past 30 years, Palli Kristjansson aka The Knifemaker has been crafting one-of-a-kind knives, first for himself and since 1996 for the general public.

96 Shop and eat Toronto-style If you’re anything like us you like to do some shopping and eating in between taking in all the sights when you visit a great city. We’ve got you covered.

72 Come for the nature,

stay to get married Move over Hawaii—Iceland is THE new picture perfect wedding destination!

98 The gems of Southwest England Bristol and Bath offer the best of both worlds, combining ancient history and contemporary cool.

40 The wonderful West No words can truly describe the unique energy and atmosphere of Snæfellsnes Peninsula, but we’re going to try anyway.

76 WOW Design Graphic designer Sigríður Rún Kristinsdóttir has given the world of typography a fascinating new composition and life with her project, Anatomy of Letters.

78 Iceland’s very first prison The Government House in Reykjavik, designed by Georg David Anthon, was the very first Icelandic prison.

Attention advertisers!

Will your company be in our next issue?

Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen.

He’s just that good!

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110 Unique accommodations

near Stockholm When we say unique—we really mean it!

102 Berlin – Museum city Berlin has so many great museums and trying to see them all is impossible.

That’s why our friends at Berlinur.de have given us a list of their favorites.

104 Santa Monica Just 13 miles from the heart of downtown LA, is Santa Monica, the laid-back beach town with big city sophistication.

106 What not to do in San Francisco Falling for obvious tourist traps is something we all want to avoid. Play it cool in San Francisco with these great tips from

114 You want more?

Check out the other destinations of WOW air. Where do you want to go?

118 This and that …mainly this.

130 The Traveling Inquisition According to Arngunnur Árnadóttir, the principal clarinetist of the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra, “music is a unifying force.”

Issue two three2016 2015

wowair.com

26 An actor on a role The recent success outside Iceland of the Icelandic mystery TV series, Trapped, has made actor Ólafur Darri Ólafsson the man of the hour.

Cindy-Lou Dale.

108 The best of Baltimore Although Baltimore is constantly evolving, its roots remain untouched.

Power to the PeoPle

umhverfisvottuð prentsmiðja

ERFISME HV R M

KI

© WOW air Katrínartún 12 105 Reykjavík Iceland

80 Sheltered by the storm The entrepreneurs at IceWind have put up two custom-made wind turbines on top of a bus stop by Harpa Concert Hall to point out the powers of the air that surround us.

WOW magazine – TraPPed The FOOdinissue iceland

Design and layout: Ivan Burkni / ivanburkni@gmail.com

22 Getting a grip on nature Iceland is really not famous for being a rock climbing destination, but that didn’t stop climbers Chris Sharma and Paul Robinson from testing their skills on a few newly developed Icelandic boulders.

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lthough spring arrives much later here than anywhere else in Europe, it still makes everything better, brighter and more beautiful. Used to volatile weather Icelanders, constantly on the lookout for the last winter storm of the season, dare not get their hopes up when those wonderful sunny days come along.

Hopefully, that last storm has blown past now so we can all start preparing for summer. Soon we’ll be able to brag about our 24 hours of daylight and go camping around the country. And speaking of going around the country— you should definitely explore the less advertised corners of Iceland. We’re talking West Iceland, the West Fjords, North Iceland, the East Fjords and Southeast Iceland. If you’re here for beautiful and unique nature and some peace and quiet, that’s where you’ll find it. We’re not knocking the South, though, it truly is beautiful.

azin

Going around

20 Party in the midnight sun Secret Solstice will return to Reykjavik in June and they’ve just announced some awesome headliners!

On the cover

One of our favorite actors and the best voice in Iceland, Ólafur Darri Ólafsson, is on the cover, photographed

by Kristinn Magnússon. Ólafur Darri has been a hit overseas lately as traPPed star Ólafur the lead in the Icelandic Darri Ólafsson TV series Trapped by Baltasar Kormákur. Ólafur Darri sat down with us for a long interview.

You can read it on pages 26-32. mag

A letter from the editor

Issue two 2016

Plus: Top 10 Must Do’s oN A NIGHT ouT IN ReykjAvIk

y o u r f r e e c o p y -ta k e m e w i t h y o u

P.S. Would you like your very own copy of WOW magazine?

Take this one with you or contact us through magazine@wow.is and we’ll send you a printed copy.

You can also check out WOW magazine online at wowair.com.

Keeping Iceland warm since 1926

Shop at 66north.com Issue two 9

A letter from the CEO

Love is in the air I love spring… actually, I love all seasons, but if I have to pick just one, spring is my favorite! In Iceland, you can always feel the energy increasing as the sun rises earlier and we start to enjoy the expanding daylight in the stunning Icelandic nature.

My personal springtime favorite is exploring the Icelandic back country on touring skis in search of that perfect run or simply enjoying the incredible beauty and silence while climbing the mountains on skis.

You can easily find some great mountains to explore very close to Reykjavik, but for those slightly more advanced, I recommend Tröllaskagi Peninsula in North Iceland using Siglufjörður as a base. There you’ll have endless mountains and amazing runs, taking you from the mountaintops straight down to the Atlantic Ocean.

Another sure way to see that spring has arrived are all the cyclists that take to the streets as well as to the mountain trails. I highly encourage you to check out the WOW Cyclothon coverage on pages 12-14 and at wowcyclothon.com. Racing around Iceland in the midnight sun is simply an extraordinary experience!

Spring has definitely arrived for WOW air and we are busy adding many new and exciting destinations to our schedule such as Los Angeles, San Francisco, Frankfurt and Stockholm to name a few. Our fleet is growing fast as we prepare for the arrival of six new aircraft including three new Airbus A330s, which will be the largest commercial aircraft flying to and from Iceland.

I am incredibly proud of the entire WOW team for making the WOW dream a reality and grateful to you, dear guest for choosing and trusting WOW air for your travel. We hope you can sense our enthusiasm as well as our professional commitment to making your journey as enjoyable as possible.

Happy travel, Skúli Mogensen Founder and CEO of WOW air

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The Vikings believed that those who died in battle would be resurrected by Valkyries and brought to Valhalla. There they would spend their days fighting and their nights drinking magnificent beer for eternity.

For the Víking Craft selection we har-ness old traditions and our unyielding enthusiasm for brewing, to create skilfully crafted ales from quality material. And we take our helmets off to Iceland’s first enduring settlers, the Vikings, whose love for beer inspires us still today.

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WOW Cyclothon

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Getting from A to B WOW Cyclothon is a solo or relay bike race around Iceland, a charity event and an absolutely unique way to experience Icelandic nature around the summer solstice.

Photos: Kristinn MagnĂşsson

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Getting from A to B

S

ince the first WOW Cyclothon race, held in 2012, the A cate­­ gory, with teams of four cyclists and two drivers / assistants has been for the serious cyc­ lists, the ones who really take the time to train and study the race beforehand. The B category, with teams of 10 cyclists who can take turns driving the support vehicles (they usually have two), has been a little less competitive with more emphasis on team building and having fun.

Hafsteinn Ægir Geirsson, member of Team Örninn Trek in front, drafting with one of his team mates and getting close to the finish line.

Setting the bar All this changed in 2015 as some of the biggest names from the Icelandic cycling scene formed B category teams to set a new record for WOW Cyclothon. Some of them were probably thinking that the standard they set in last year’s A class race would never be topped and wanted to set the record for the B category too.

Well, they did just that and then some. B category teams Örninn Trek (who came in second as an A category team in 2014) and HRF Ungliðar worked together for most of the Ring Road, leaving Tindur B, including some of Örninn Trek’s rivals from last year, behind. Örninn Trek then set a new WOW Cyclothon record by finishing the race in only 36 hours 51 minutes and 25 seconds, almost an hour before the first A category team arrived, despite having started a whole hour later. They also improved last year’s best time (their own A class time actually) by 2 hours and 21 minutes. WOW! A fun ride According to Hafsteinn Ægir Geirson, one of the top cyclists in Iceland and a member of Örninn Trek, the team did not train especially for WOW Cyclothon as they are all top cyclists and have their own training programs. “We did get together to discuss the practical things, like food, vehicles and stuff like that. And we had to pick out seven cyclists that could go the whole course as three of our members had to go to work during the race.”

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These three members who went home became a big part of Örninn Trek’s race strategy; cycling with the team at the beginning of the race, driving up speed, returning home in one of the team vehicles and then meeting the team back in Vík on the south coast of Iceland, well rested and ready to race.

“The reason we put together a B category team instead of an A category team was that we wanted to finish with great time and to minimize the strain on each member since they all planned on competing in other races that give them points for the Icelandic Cycling Championship. This was supposed to be a fun ride but, of course, we also had our goal set on winning,” says Hafsteinn. Hafsteinn has no reservations admitting that Örn­inn Trek’s official goal was also to beat Tindur B whose members consisted in part of the Workforce A team that beat Örninn Trek by merely a second in last year’s A category race.

“The reason we put together a B category team instead of an A category team was that we wanted to finish with great time and to minimize the strain on each member since they all planned on competing in other races that give them points for the Icelandic Cycling Championship.”

The strategy According to Hafsteinn, the team’s race strategy was fairly simple; to find one or two teams to work with and leave the rest well behind. “We worked with HFR Ungliðar, but we only had 7 members against their 10, so we had to be careful and save our strength as much as possible to keep up with them. The plan was to leave them behind at Vík when we met up with our three members who couldn’t go the whole course. That plan worked perfectly although HFR Ungliðar wasn’t as easy to get rid of as we’d imagined. Strong cyclists on that team,” Hafsteinn explains adding that, apart from one of the team’s member rear bumping the team’s vehicle and hurting his wrist, they didn’t hit any snags along the road. “Not even a flat tire!”

Hafsteinn said his team had just one rule aboard their vehicle: No whining and no irritation. “That rule really worked out well for us, and then we told a lot of jokes about bodily functions. That always works great for morale when sleep deprivation sets in and your level of humor falls to kindergarten level.”

What stands out for Hafsteinn is his team, “What an awesome group of men,” he exclaims. Will they participate again? “You never know. I’m thinking of doing the solo race one of these days, but I broke my leg last winter so that will probably slow me down for the next year or two,” says Hafsteinn. v Solo or with a team, WOW Cyclothon is a race that every cyclist worth his salt must try at least once.

Registration for 2016 is now open at wowcyclothon. com, but hurry up, after May 1st the registration fees will increase.

Follow WOW Cyclothon on Facebook for updates, photos and news.

THE DAILY SWIM

East Icelanders believe that life can and should be very simple.

All you need is your swimwear and a little bit of the viking spirit.

The rest will take care of itself.

Come over to East Iceland and meet us.

Don’t be afraid, we’re a friendly bunch.

All information at Issue two 15

Reykjavík loves the City Card and so will you Reykjavik is so much more than just a destination; it’s a place of exciting possibilities surrounded by incredible landscapes, where countless adventures beckon, and a host of natural wonders await.

Photos: Visit Reykjavik

Whether you’re seeking the throbbing dynamic of the nation‘s capital, the thundering thermal energy in the ground beneath your feet, or the calming green forces of the surrounding landscape, Reykjavik promises an intriguing experi­ ence for all who visit.

More for your money To further enrich your visit, Visit Reykjavik offers a special City Card making it so much easier for you to connect with the extraordinary cultural scene and vibrant city life. Available for up to 24, 48 or 72 hours and yielding great value, the City Card gives you free admission to all of Reykjavik’s famous thermal pools, a great many museums, galleries and other attractions, with unlimited travel on Reykjavik buses and the ferry to Viðey Island. The City Card also entitles

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WOW Power to the people

you to discounts at selected shops and restaurants, plus free internet access at the Tourist Information Centre at Aðalstræti 2 in Reykjavik.

Children’s City Card Admission to the museums is free for children under 18 years old. There are, however, fees for children (from the age of 6) on city buses and the ferry to Viðey Island (from the age of 7). There are also entrance fees for children (6 and over) at the thermal pools, and from 5 years and over at the Animal Zoo and Family Park in Laugardalur.

To accommodate families, Visit Reykjavik now offers a special children’s City Card, at a significantly reduced fee. Whether you’re just stopping over or staying in the city for a little longer, you can make the most of your time, with the Reykjavik City Card! v

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The City Card gives you free admission to all of Reykjavik’s famous thermal pools, a great many museums, galleries and other attractions, with unlimited travel on Reykjavik buses and the ferry to Viðey.

It’s in the cards 24 hours –Valid for 24 hours Culture, transportation, relaxation and adventures, all in one day 48 hours –Valid for 48 hours For two days, you can enjoy the benefits of the Reykjavik City Card, so why not visit the zoo or sail to Viðey Island?

72 hours –Valid for 72 hours Discover Reykjavik in three days, soaking in the swimming pools, visiting the museums and getting the most out of the discounts available to you.

For more information go to citycard.is

W E L C O M E

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The fleet is made up of the most modern and meticulously maintained helicopters on the market. The pilots are trained to the highest standards, experienced, friendly, multi-lingual individuals with great knowledge of Iceland’s spectacular nature.

They will make your journey unforgettable.

Safety and comfort of our customers is always our main priority.

• We operate from Reykjavik (city) Airport.

• We offer free transport services within Reykjavik city area in connection with our flights.

• We can, on the other hand, arrange for a pick up and/or drop off from and to just about anywhere in the country.

• You can either pick one of our tours or simply design your own.

• We are flexible.

Our service team is on duty 24/7 and will happily assist you at any time.

Check out our tours and prices on our website.

E-mail to info@rehe.is or call (+354) 589 1000 www.reykjavikhelicopters.com

Issue two 17

A night on the town

Top 10 MUST DO’s on a night out in Reykjavik

By WakeUpReykjavik.com Photo: Wake Up Reykjavik and iStockphoto.com / Nikolay Tsuguliev

It is no longer a secret that our beautiful Reykjavik boasts a wild and unique party scene. For the past 5-10 years, the northernmost capital of the world has been getting worldwide recognition for its vibrant nightlife, cool bars and partyfriendly atmosphere. This revelry that locals have been engaged in for decades, was recently discovered and portrayed by multiple huge international travel magazines for everyone to know. But if you’re planning to take on the awesome Reykjavik nightlife, you better go all in, and do it with style! Just for fun, we’ve made this short little check-list of 10 fun “MUST-DO” things while you explore Reykjavik nightlife. Whether you try to complete it all in one night or during your whole stay is up to you. Just remember that we don’t take any responsibility for the hangovers!

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1 Have a shot of Iceland’s unique, traditional snaps, Black Death! (or “Brennivin” in Icelandic).

2

On your night out in Reykjavik, visit at least three different bars.

3

Make friends with a drunk Icelander!

4 During winter: See the Northern lights on a night out.

During summer: Party under the clear sky, in the midnight sun!

Try the old Ice­­landic “pro­hibition version” of beer where you get a non-alcoholic beer with a shot of “brenni­vin” in it!

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Join the “Reykjavik Bar Crawl” for a fun night out with locals and like-minded travelers. Find more info at wakeupreykjavik.com.

6

Have a shot of the local’s favorite shot, Ópal.

7

See an elf! (You might have to complete number 1, 6, 8 and 9 to do this!)

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Have an Icelandic beer that you can’t pronounce the name of!

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Try the old Icelandic “prohibition version” of beer where you get a non-alcoholic beer with a shot of “brennivin” in it!

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End your night out in Reykjavik the only acceptable way – by visiting the famous Icelandic hot dog stand of Bæjarins Bestu!

See you in Reykjavik!

WE’LL TAKE YOU THERE! ALL THE MOST EXCITING PLACES IN ICELAND

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– just ask the cabin crew.

EXPERIENCE A GREAT DAY WITH US!

More tours available on our website www.re.is AND IN OUR BROCHURES!

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Issue two 19

Party in the midnight sun

Secret Solstice returns for the third time in Reykjavik, Iceland This summer Secret Solstice will rock, pop and electro beat the city of Reykjavik around the summer solstice, from June 17-19, when the sun never really sets.

Photos: Courtesy of Secret Solstice

Showcasing a varied mixture of local and international artists, the biggest headliners for 2016 are without a doubt, newly announced Radiohead in addition to Iceland’s own Of Monsters and Men, Deftones from the USA, Die Antwoord from South Africa and Jamie Jones from the UK. Other heavy hitters include Róisín Murphy (IE), Action Bronson (US), Apollonia (FR), Agent Fresco (IS), AmabAdamA (IS), Droog (US), Goldie (UK), Kerri Chandler (US), Skream (UK) and Visionquest (US).

The time of year Themed after the Old Norse religion and mythology, Secret Solstice has all sorts of cool names for the stages and spac­­es within the festival area, such as Gimli, Valhalla and Hel. These names are taken from ancient Viking religious and mytho­­logical locations, lending a very special aura to the event.

Due to the festival being held over the summer solstice weekend, Secret Solstice 2016 will

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experience 96 hours of unbroken daylight. This promises a very unique festi­val experience for guests, especially those who have never basked in the famed midnight sun before.

Off-venue action Secret Solstice also boasts some of the world’s most unusual side events. For those with an adventurous spirit, there’s the planet’s only event inside a glacier and the debut of the world’s first concert inside the dormant magma chamber of a volcano. For a more chilled experience, there’s a DJ party in Iceland’s oldest geothermal bath and a boat party after midnight that sails from Reykjavík into the North Atlantic.

The location Secret Solstice is conveniently located smack down in the middle of Reykjavik, a stone’s throw from the downtown area with multiple hotels, restaurants and bars, so finding accommodation close by won’t be a problem. If you’re on a budget, alongside the venue is a campsite and a fully equipped geothermal swimming pool right next door. If you’re after the summer festival event of a lifetime that’ll surely secure you some incredible bragging rights with your friends, Secret Solstice is the obvious choice. v For more information on Secret Solstice, tickets and line-up, visit secretsolstice.is

Getting to Iceland is the easy part... Book your own WOW air flight to Reykjavik from USA, Canada or Europe at wowair.com or better yet, get our friends at Gaman Travel to make you a package deal at www.gamantravel.is.

Issue two 21

Getting a grip on nature

Rock climbing in Iceland “Climbing is hard to fit it into the box of a conventional sport, especially in Iceland,” says American Chris Sharma, one of the sport’s most well-known and respected climbers. Last summer Chris visited Iceland (an infant island where new rocks are constantly born) with the desire to get a grip on the land of “Fire and Ice.”

by Michael Kew Photos by Chris Burkard/Massif

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Chris Sharma on his way to the top of a basalt formation in Hnappavellir.

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From midnight to 4 am, the white night of summer in this island of the far north, allowed Sharma to make his cliff ascents up nameless walls of basalt and other vertical edifices. His conclusion: Iceland will not be hosting an IFSC World Championship in 2016.

Not your typical destination “I wouldn’t say the area was bad for rock climbing,” Sharma’s travel partner Paul Robinson says. “I think it was more the difficult weather that plagued our trip and depleted our enthusiasm.”

Iceland is not a premier rock-climbing destination as the rock tends to be crumbly and insecure. Earth’s most basic kind of rock is igneous rock (often called “volcanic”) formed from cooled magma beneath the earth’s surface. As Iceland is geologically young and barely eroded, volcanic rock dominates.

“Icelandic climbing is pretty unique,” Robinson says. “It is largely undeveloped, and I am sure there is a lot of potential.

It was cool to see an area in such an early stage in its development”—“and to step off the beaten track of the usual climbing circuit and do something different,” Sharma adds.

Sweet boulders One good spot is Skaftafell, in Southeast Iceland’s Vatna­ jokull National Park, where the average July temper­ature is 10-13°C. Warm days can reach 20-25°C, but this did not occur during our trip.

With both cliffs and boulders, there are more than 130 bolted runs in Skaftafell, ranging in difficulty from 5.10 through all levels of 5.13. Inject a high number of technical bouldering routes, and it’s clear to the casual non-climber why nylon camping tents are pitched here for the whole of Iceland’s short summers. “We found some sweet boulders,” Sharma says. “I’ve never climbed on rock quite like that before, so I savored the experience, even though I did freeze my butt off.”

In pursuit of raw canvas Towering over grassy meadows, Hnappavellir is Iceland’s largest, most popular climbing area, a summertime mecca for climbers who are rewarded with high“It was all very quality rock and sublime views. “Huge dreamy until mountains ending on deserted black we got out of sand beaches and beautiful granite the car and boulders perched just above raging surf were knocked without a person in sight,” Sharma says. over by an “It was all very dreamy until we got out 85-mph gust of of the car and were knocked over by an wind.”

85-mph gust of wind.”

The men also summited in Höfn, where the crew narrowly missed attending the town’s yearly Humarhátíð (Lobster Festival). Fresh seafood aside, Robinson says, “There are hidden treasures to be found around every corner. Huge waterfalls, secret point breaks, boulders to climb, never scaled before – Iceland offers some of the most incredible landscape with a plethora of things to see. The pristine nature of the island and what can be described as its mysti­ cal setting was the perfect backdrop for some pretty awe­ some outdoor experiences – a surreal and amazing land.” v Hnappavellir provides some of the most idyllic surroundings for climbing that you could ask for.

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We bring you closer to your loved ones MoneyGram money transfer is available at more than 30 post offices across Iceland

Easy. Fast. Reliable.

moneygram.is Service number: +354 580 1200 For calls to this number from mobile phones an additional fee may be charged by your provider.

Š2016 MoneyGram. MoneyGram and the Globe are registered trademarks of MoneyGram. All other marks are the property of their respective owner. MoneyGram International Limited is authorised and regulated in the United Kingdom by the Financial Conduct Authority.

Issue two 25

Ólafur Darri Ólafsson

An actor on a role After the recent success of Icelandic mystery TV series, Trapped, Ólafur Darri Ólafsson is the man of the hour. The show, a big success in the UK, Norway and France, was also sold to numerous other broadcasters around the world. We met with Darri, as he is most often called, to talk about Trapped and his life role as an actor.

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pon meeting Ólafur Darri, we cut right to the chase and asked him about his role as the over-qualified police chief, Andri, in the series. “I loved it,” he says. “It’s definitely the biggest role I’ve ever played. I’ve never before been the lead actor for 10 hours; it was a lot of fun but also a lot of responsibility.

We had four directors, which puts much more responsibility on the actors and on Sigurjón Kjartansson of course, who’s the main author and show-runner, because we have to make sure the character is consistent throughout the whole 10 hours,” he says, adding that he liked having this responsibility.

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The sex symbol status Scenes for Trapped were filmed in Siglu­­ fjörður in North Iceland, Seyðisfjörður in East Iceland and in and around Reykjavik over 7 months. The story tells of Andri, the police chief, who’s moved from the capital where he had a great reputation for being a shrewd investigator. Andri has to use all his skills when a headless torso is found in the ocean near a small fishing town. A big snowstorm closes the town off from the rest of the country leaving the inhabitants, one of whom is likely the murderer, trapped for days.

The show has been broadcast in the UK, France and Norway and got great reviews.

British papers have even called Ólafur

The show has been broadcast in the UK, France and Norway and got great reviews.

British papers have even called Ólafur Darri “the sexiest man in Iceland.”

Darri “the sexiest man in Iceland.” “I don’t know about that,” he says “But it’s amazing to get such strong reactions to the show.”

Despite the fact that more has been spent on Trapped than any other Icelandic TV show in history, Ólafur Darri says Icelandic productions will always have to deal with lack of funds. “Icelandic cinema and TV will always have that money issue and even though this was the most expensive production we’ve ever done we’re still doing it for less than we really need.

It’s really rewarding to put your life and soul into something that gets such a good reaction.

“I’m really happy with how far we got this project and in the long term I’m hoping

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we’ve set somewhat of a standard for future television productions in Iceland.

I also hope that this success will make it easier for other productions to get the funding they need because now financiers can see that the outside world is watching” Ólafur Darri says.

Trapped again?

Viewers are curious if there will be a sec­ ond season of Trapped and the pro­­­spects seem pretty good. “From the beginning I always saw this project as more than a one-time deal; I think we all did and that’s why I’m so relieved that people liked the show. But even if there was to be no sequel I hope its success means that more shows will be made on this scale. I do hope they will make more of Trapped, though. I loved working with this group of talents, and I got on especially well with the directors and with Sigurjón Kjartansson… and with actress Ilmur [Kristjánsdóttir] and actor Ingvar [E. Sigurðsson], the other two parts of the local police trio, I would work with them again any time. And then I liked my character, Andri. I would like to take on that role again.”

Get ready for Andri Portraying an epic character for 10 hours must require a lot of preparation for an actor. How does Ólafur Darri prepare for such a role? “I really don’t know how to answer that. Once my wife and I had dinner with another couple who asked if I spent a lot of time preparing. I said ‘no, I don’t think I do’ and my wife said ‘yes, he does’ and then went over it with me point by point.

That’s when I realized that I do prepare much more than I’m actually aware of.

“It helps that the show was very well written … how my character reacts to cer­ tain things. Naturally I’m also a catalyst in this reaction, especially when we’ve begun shooting and I’m starting to realize what the character is about.

“I got to visit the department of criminal investigation here in Reykjavik when I was preparing for the role. They allowed me to walk around, talk with some of the police officers and gain some insight into their world. This was very valuable. I don’t think we realize what kind of super-human strength it takes to do that job, not just physically but mentally; the pressure these people are under. I believe if we realized that, we’d demand that they’d be given the raise they deserve.

“I’m not one to get political, but it’s really strange that we’ve somehow decided that

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the professions that should matter the most to us, like kindergarten teachers, nurses and the police force, should have such appalling wages… These are the professions we should reward.

“My visit to the criminal investigation department was very fruitful. The offic­er who showed me around was very ac­ commo­dating, giving me two hours of his time to talk about things like interrogation techniques. That proved to be really helpful when I got back to rehearsals. Also, when it comes to preparations, knowing that you’re leaving for 7 months to shoot these episodes, you have to keep yourself fit, mentally and physically. It’s a marathon, an ultra-marathon really.”

“It helps that the show was very well written … how my character reacts to cer­tain things.

Naturally I’m also a catalyst in this reaction, especially when we’ve begun shooting and I’m starting to realize what the character is about.”

A busy life When you finish a marathon, what do you do? Most people would perhaps take a little time for rest and recuperation, but Ólafur Darri says he got no such break.

“I’ve been fortunate enough to have been able to work almost non-stop for the last 1 ½ - 2 years. I would’ve preferred a short break after Trapped, but I was on a plane the same day we finished shooting for a 6-8 week project abroad. Doing Trapped was a lot of strain on everybody involved, but I think it helps how close everyone in the Icelandic film industry is. We all know each other well; most of us have worked together before and I don’t think there’s room for anything except love and respect for each other. Of course, we have our differences every now and then, but most often I feel like I’m working with my family,” Ólafur Darri says. Ólafur was born in Connecticut in the US and lived there for little over 3 years, so he has a good base when it comes to the English language which has served him well when it comes to parts in foreign films and TV shows. He’s appeared in numerous high-profile movies and TV shows such as The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, True Detective, A Walk Among the Tombstones, The Last Which Hunter and Zoolander 2. His latest projects now just out or in post-production are TV series Quarry and Emerald City, and the movie The White King.

In May, you’ll also be able to see Ólafur Darri in the Netflix series Lady Dynamite, based on the life of come­dian Maria Bamford. “Maria Bamford is absolutely hilarious. She’s been dealing with a mental illness and her stand-ups often touch on that subject; of course, it’s a part of the show. It was a really fun project and I think I appear in five episodes.” Ólafur Darri plays Maria’s love interest in the show, that’s got to be a big part right? “We’ll see. You never know how many of your scenes end up being cut out.”

A voice to remember Visual presence is one thing, and Ólafur Darri certainly has that, but it should be known that he also has one of the most famous voices in Iceland after becoming the voice and announcer of TV station Skjár 1 at the turn of the millennium. “I quit as Skjár 1’s voice in 2004. A few years ago I became the voice of Síminn [an Icelandic telecommunications company] and when Skjár 1 became a part of the Síminn television network last year, I became the voice of Skjár 1 again. It’s funny, and I feel

Issue two 29

like I’ve come home again, which is great.

“In all honesty, jobs like these are what keep actors like me afloat. If you want to survive as an actor in Iceland you really need to put yourself out there to find paying jobs. I think almost all actors have six jobs; we rehearse at the theaters during the day, we do movies or TV series, we do radio plays, reading and voice overs, perform at or host annual parties for firms or associations, read for advertisements, you name it... That’s just a part of being an actor in Iceland.” And Ólafur’s voice has proven popular among both parents and children as he’s used it for many famous cartoon characters. “Yes, I really like doing that. Of course, not all cartoons are created equal, but I especially remember Monsters, Inc. where I read for Sully; how I looked forward coming into work each day to know what happened next. It was absolutely unique.”

The family life Ólafur Darri has a wife, Lovísa Ósk Gunnarsdóttir, and two little daughter. Even though the life of the actor is not always family friendly, he says they have a great support system from their parents and his wife’s sister. “My wife is a dancer with the Icelandic Dance Company, so she under­ stands this better than most and some­ times it’s her that goes abroad to perform.”

Have his children seen his work? Did they get to watch Trapped? “I think my older daughter got to see one episode and her mother covered her eyes for some of the scenes. We only allowed it because some of the kids at her kindergarten were talking about the show. But no, they won’t get to watch it, and I think it’s amazing how many projects I’ve done aren’t suitable for children. That just sort of happened.”

A greater cause Ólafur Darri likes to use his talent for a good causes and when given the chance he brought up the AHC Association. “AHC [Alternating Hemiplegia of Childhood] is a very rare disease. There’s only one child in Iceland who has it, and that’s Sunna Valdís Sigurðardóttir. I got to know her and her family a few years back. Her dad called me one day and said ‘Hi, this is a little strange to ask for, but I have a daughter with a disease, and she always wants to cut your photos out of the papers, even though she’s afraid of bearded men. I thought this was so strange and funny, so I wanted to know if I could invite you to our house for a cup of coffee.’ I went to him and was immediately

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“The biggest one I remember was acting with Ben Stiller in the Walter Mitty movie, and there was this moment where there was just the two of us doing a scene, and I thought ‘Wow, I’m actually doing a scene with Ben Stiller. This must be some sort of a joke.’”

fascinated by this fantastic family. Since then, I’ve been trying to help them out by raising funds and now they’ve made this documentary … These people are just absolutely brilliant.

“I’ve also been working for UNICEF’s Children Foundation in Iceland, which is something I treasure greatly. Last year I went with the Children’s Foundation to Madagaskar, which was an amazing experience. I get to contribute by reading for their advertisements, and I’m very thankful to Síminn for being so accommodating because technically, I’m only supposed to be the voice of Síminn.

I really like when people come together and give their work to a good cause, the ad agencies and actors and everyone involved.

This human element is strong within Icelanders. And I like giving and helping out. I’m not rich and I’m a lousy carpenter but I can contribute in this way, and I like being able to contribute.”

That “wow” feeling We asked Ólafur Darri what the top moment of his career had been, and he said there’d been many. “The biggest one I remember was acting with Ben Stiller in the Walter Mitty movie, and there was this moment where there was just the two of us doing a scene, and I thought ‘Wow, I’m actually doing a scene with Ben Stiller. This must be some sort of a joke.’ But it’s funny when you look back you realize that you’ve had lots of these moments.

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visitreykjavik.is Issue two 31

“Going through acting school, you have to deal with all the doubt and insecurity of who you are or if you even belong in this field you’ve been studying for. Then you start working, and someone hires you to a theater and all of a sudden you’re on the big stage of the National Theater, a stage where you’ve watched your favorite actors perform … There you are rehearsing and you’re in this state of disbelief. I also got this feeling when I got to perform at the Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford upon Avon, like ‘Wow, I can’t believe I’m performing here.’ And then when I was working with Vesturport Theater and we received the European Theater Awards I thought, ‘There’s been a mix-up. We’re just some kids.’

“So this feeling, fortunately it doesn’t leave you, it doesn’t change and that’s positive I think. I’m very grateful for it, because it’s not just a matter of course that you get to do these things. The world doesn’t owe you anything and you have to work hard. You have to nurture and develop your talent and often it’s also about meeting the right people at the right time.

Like Baltasar choosing me for the lead role in Trapped; that wasn’t a given. I would never be considered a typical actor for that role and that’s why I think it’s so amazing when someone trusts you to do something like that. The feeling is just as big whether you’re making a 10 episode TV series or doing a tiny role on stage.”

“I get a real kick out of the production part of filmmaking, getting all these talents together and making dreams come true. I plan on doing more of that.”

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What’s in a name? Ólafur Darri admits that he felt small and insignificant when he first stood on the big stage. Does he still ever get that feeling?

“Yes, every time I think about the stars and the universe and how tiny we are. It’s a healthy feeling. I feel like the universe gives me a little kick in the butt every now and then. Like the other day—I did a few interviews in the UK and as I was walking along the street I was stopped by a couple of people who thanked me for Trapped.

I thought ‘Wow, the show’s been a great success.’ Then I got into the taxi that had been ordered for me and read ‘Olalul Alisson’—that was supposed to be my name and then I got it, that the universe was telling me that even if two people recognized me on the street I was still just ‘Olalul Allison,’ you know? It’s important to get a little warning like that so your head doesn’t get too big. An ego is a dangerous thing, especially when it comes to my art.

You have to set yourself to a frequency of humility and pureness because, like I said,

the world doesn’t owe you anything.”

Despite having his name mixed up on a number of occasions, Ólafur Darri is not about to change it to make it more commercial. “No, I’ve never considered that. I’m an Icelandic actor and that’s the element I bring. There are Icelandic actors who’ve studied in the UK who change their names and that’s because they’re focusing on that market. In the UK, you have to have a good British accent and they’ll take one look at your last name and say, ‘Nope, this one can’t be British.’ If I had moved to the UK to try my luck as an actor in Britain I would’ve done the same.”

What’s next? Ólafur Darri says he rarely regrets turning down a role but that he often has a hard time saying no. “I think it’s related to this thing that’s imprinted into actors, at least this actor here, that every project might somehow be the last. Three days before a project ends, you start to worry about having something lined up afterwards. I’m at this place right now. I need to go abroad

one more time for this project but already I’m thinking: ‘Wait a minute, what’s next?’

Stopping for a minute to smell the flowers is, I think, good for you.”

Will Ólafur get that long awaited break?

“We’ll see about that. I have my own projects that I’ve wanted to do more with. I want to produce more, that’s been happening little by little. I’ve been coproducing some of the movies I’ve been in and I’d like to produce a movie where I’m not acting as well, at least not in a big role.

I get a real kick out of the production part of filmmaking, getting all these talents together and making dreams come true. I plan on doing more of that.”

Actor, producer, larger than life and with that seductive voice, Ólafur Darri, might just be the complete package. Here’s hoping we’ll see him take on the role of Andri again in the near future. In the meantime, check out Ólafur Darri’s latest role as Maria Bamford’s love interest in the Netflix series Lady Dynamite. For those of you still un-trapped, you can find Trapped on DVD and Blu-Ray on Amazon.co.uk. v

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Issue two 33

Nexus

The name of the game

by Paul Michael Herman Photos: Gunnella Thorgeirs

Dungeons and Dragons, Harry Potter, the Lord of the Rings—you may be surprised that Iceland hosts Nexus, one of Europe’s largest shops in fantasy, sci-fi and gaming. How did a country with such a small population wind up with such a large, bustling business?

Before answering this question, Gísli Einarsson the owner, told us how it all began almost 20 years ago, and how it developed.

“My first full-time job outside the family farm was at a bookstore with some comics, some science fiction and some role playing games. I sort of took over that part, but I always wanted to do more. In time, there was some friction between me and the owners and eventually, I decided that I would just do it myself, which of course I didn’t do—I’ve had a lot of help through the years.”

Gísli postulates on why his business soared. “There was always a solid fanbase in Iceland. English is well understood so I didn’t need books translated from English and this way I could have a wide selection. Like most of my customers I had a passion for the product and with that passion, we got the business going.

Actually, it was just having a store like this that allowed the market to grow. After the store got started, there were a string of big hits coming from these genres like the Harry Potter books and The Lord of the Rings movies. With these, the culture moved from a niche market on the fringes, closer to the center... It was the same all over Western Europe and the U.S. “The winter also helped the business grow. In the winter, Icelanders are accustom­ed to spending all their time in­­doors. Why not just reach for a book?

And then, of course, we can pull out the old cliche, that ‘Iceland is the land of the sagas.’ Stories and storytelling are in our blood. Besides this, we have 100% literacy and the highest per capita of writers in the world.”

Growing bigger and wider Along with books, comic books and games, there are toys, artwork and films on offer.

In answer to the question as to how he chooses what to buy Gísli says: “What gets

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bought is what works elsewhere at the moment, but we try to assess what the customer is looking for. If we think it fits with what we’re doing, then we add those things... The staff has an enormous input based on what they find interesting and what they want to promote.”

Nexus is not part of a chain and it’s inde­­ pendently owned. Gísli continues, “We’re in a privileged position because we can choose what we promote and we don‘t have to push what we don’t like. We are always confident about trying to give the customer good stuff.”

In lieu of the way some of these genres have impacted on his customers, Gísli thought it might be good to form an associ­­ation. He expounds, “We have our gaming area next door which is open seven days a week and functions more like a gaming club with organized games and tournaments. And then we have our youth outreach program where we offer organized courses introducing all facets of what we are doing. For example, people are taught how to play Dungeons and Dragons. Also, lessons are given in drawing simple comics. These courses are self-em­powering, helping people to enjoy being a little bit different.”

If you are in the store you will see a lot of young people. Gísli tells us about his customers. “We do have quite a number of people who are younger, but the biggest interest comes from college and university age people, that is once they’ve gotten a good grasp of the English language. We lose a lot of them temporarily when they start their families, because they‘re busy but once their kids grow old enough, they introduce them to their hobby and get back into it themselves.”

On the back cover of a comic book spotted in the store, were a number of reviews, one by The New York Times, anot­her by The Guardian. Obviously, among the large number of comic books on the market, there were some very high­-quality ones. Gísli says that “comics are just like any other media. You will have a normal bell curve. There’s a lot of stuff concentrated around the middle; there’s some high-quality stuff and some really bad stuff. I think mainstream media should be paying more attention to what’s

“My first full-time job outside the family farm was at a bookstore with some comics, some science fiction and some role playing games. I sort of took over that part, but I always wanted to do more.”

happening in this market because they are missing out on promoting some really good stuff. This goes for the sci-fi & fantasy books as well. For example, the “Game of Thrones“ books were best sellers of ours for years before anyone in the mainstream heard anything about them.“ Pursuing the passion It would seem that this place would do best with a staff that is well informed about the products. Gísli explains his crit­­er­ia for hiring. “The demand is high and

the turnover is low. I never have to ad­­vertise. First and foremost staff mem­­bers have to be into the stuff they’re going to be taking care of.

The unofficial policy is that we share the same interest and passion as the customers.”

And passion it is. Gísli has developed a place in Reykjavik where people can pursue their passion. Regarding his future plans, Gísli remarks, “the only plan I have is to let the store grow organically in whatever direction it wants and to whatever size. Perhaps you can call this business a mixture of capitalism and Eastern philosophy.

It’s definitely not about turning everybody into a fan.”

Gísli’s view is that trying to make every­­one a customer can di­­min­ ish the integrity of a business, taking the life out of it and making it bland. Judging from his suc­­cess, he’s right on point. Want to see for your­­self? Nexus is located at Nóatún 17 in Reykjavik. v

Issue two 35

Hengifoss Water足足fall. Photo: istockphoto / subtik

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Eastern tranquility

Here be dragons – and beautiful nature East Iceland is a paradise for those who love fjords and majestic nature but watch out for dragons!

by Marvin Lee Durpree Photos: iStockphoto.com

I

n Heimskringla’s History of the Kings of Norway, a sorcerer is sent by Harold Bluetooth to scout for potential weaknesses in Iceland’s defenses.

The sorcerer dresses in the guise of a whale and in his misguided attempt he is sent packing by four mythical “land wights.” In the western part it was a bull while in the northern part there was an eagle or a griffin. In the south, it was a mountain giant and lastly a dragon guarded the eastern part of Ice­­land. Thus, each region of Iceland has its pro­­­tector and this is portrayed in the Icelandic coat of arms.

Naturally, many people might imagine that Iceland is divided into houses like in the Harry Potter universe and there is, in fact, an element of truth to that. The Westfjords are known for their allure; the North has its great regional capital and amazing geological oddities; the South has Reykjavik, the dynamic and hip capital and plenty of well-advertised points of interest along the entire coast. What stands out in the East is its distinctive culture and enthralling nature— including herds of reindeer that aren’t anywhere else in the country. In addition, in East Iceland you will often get the best weather and experience the most tranquility.

The capital of the East Before heading off to the fjord-strewn glory of East Iceland, an indispensable part of your itinerary should, of course, start with the de facto hub of the East, Egilsstadir. From there it is possible to explore all the nearby gems. The first thing you might notice about Egilsstadir is that the classic Icelandic joke: “If you don’t like the weather in Iceland, wait five minutes” is usually not applicable there. In fact, the denizens of Reykjavik often grumble about the disproportionate amount of sunny days this part of Iceland receives compared to the capital, with temperatures often hitting over 20°C – beach weather for us Icelanders!

Once you arrive in Egilsstadir, you can try to find the Lagarfljotsormur or the Lagarfljot Worm, nota­bly a distant cousin of the Loch Ness Monster.

If it doesn’t make an appearance you can always console yourself with the view of the lake and make your way to Hallormsstadaskogur Forest.

This happens to be the largest forest in the country, comprised mainly of native dwarf birch trees and

mountain ash but with a mixture of imported trees, including Alaskan poplar.

Activities in the area include horseback-riding, boat rentals, birdwatching and if you are adven­­ turous you can take a dip in the lake; that is, if certain sea monsters aren’t lurking in the area. If you wish to camp, you can utilize the inlet Atlavík Bay. This was the hottest spot back in 1984 when Ringo Starr was a special guest and played a song with Stuðmenn, Iceland’s most popular band at that time.

For a more serene experience you should head to Skriðuklaustur, a former monastery, currently a center of culture and history. The building was donated to the Icelandic government by the famous author Gunnar Gunnarsson, who many argue was a contender for the Nobel Prize along with the recipient of the 1955 prize, Halldór Laxness.

Two other additional must see destinations in the vicinity of Egilsstaðir include Hengifoss Water­­ fall, the third largest waterfall in Iceland. While it may lack the brand recognition of Goðafoss and not have had a predominant role in any major Hollywood films like Dettifoss, it is still majestic.

After visiting these destinations you might like to relax in one of Iceland’s natural hot springs at Laugarfellslaug, followed by a picnic in the pleas­­ ing surroundings near Studlafoss Waterfall.

The Eastfjords and the Caribbean connection For those looking for something offbeat an excur­­ sion along the Eastfjords is an excellent choice.

Your first choice, assuming you drove the southern route, should be Djúpivogur, quaint in appearance and awash with history. This village is the oldest trading center in the area – with a very intriguing past.

One of Djúpivogur’s most famous residents was Hans Jónatan, a former slave born in St Croix, who later moved to Djúpivogur and set up shop there; his descendants are quite numerous and include former prime minister of Iceland, David Oddsson.

For those interested in the history of the region, do pick up The Man Who Stole Himself: The Slave Odyssey of Hans Jonathan.

While in Djúpivogur, you Once you arrive can enjoy the splendid in Egilsstadir, you local birdlife and admire can try to find the the pyramid shaped Mt. Lagarfljotsormur Bulandstindur in the or the Lagarfljot distance. From there you Worm, nota­bly can ferry out to the island a distant cousin of Papey (Friar’s Island) of the Loch Ness where the Irish monks, Monster. who had braved the fierce Atlantic Ocean, attempted

Djúpivogur. Photo: iStockphoto / parys

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Fellabær municipality and the bridge over Lagarfljót to Egilsstadir.

Photo: iStockphoto / dvoevnore

The oldest wooden church in Iceland is on Papey (Friar’s Island).

Photo: iStockphoto / leospek

Spectacular nature near Seydisfjordur. Photo: iStockphoto / alexeys

to colonize before the Nordic hordes arrived. A campsite is available on the island and you can visit the oldest wooden church in Iceland, dating back to 1805. Back in Djupivogur, be on the lookout for the numerous large granite eggs made by Icelandic artist Sig­urður Guðmundsson that depict the illustrious birdlife of the area.

Black beaches, pirates and a hermit When threading your way through the pleasant fjords, you will come across the tiny village of Breid­­­­­dalsvík, which is home to the black sand beach Meleyri and a majestic view of the moun­­ tains arching over the valley bearing the same name as the village. Notable for its geological hist­­ory and volcanic past, the surrounding area is gor­­­geous. For some additional excitement, you can contact Tinna Nature Adventures; highlights include super jeep trips to Kistufell, sea angling and puffin spotting with the occasional whale spotting as well. Another beautiful sight in the area are the twin waterfalls Beljandi (Bellower).

After taking in these attractions, Stodvarfjordur should be next on the list. A sleepy village, like many others in Iceland it’s surrounded by breath­­ taking mountains; Stedji (Anvil) in the north and Sulur in the south. According to local legends, the ravine Storkerald located on Stedji is where locals sought refuge against slave raiding Barbary pirates (at the time considered, and still are, to be Turks).

They avoided capture by slinging rocks from the slope in front of the ravine, at the foreign marauders, giving rise to the name Tyrkjaurd or Turkish slope.

Stodvarfjörður also boasts of “Saxi,” which some locals have dubbed the “Sea Geyser” or “the Grinder”. Saxi is essentially a rock formation just off the coast where you can see fantastic eruptions

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of seawater, mixed with chopped-up algae, hence the name “the Grinder.” Equally impressive is Petra’s Stone Collection, which houses an extra­­ ordinary collection of stones and minerals mainly from the local terrain. Before leaving the area make sure you visit the Einbúi or the Hermit. Situated snuggly in the midst of the vale Jafnadalur, the Hermit is a rock formation rising from the flatland like a talisman, reminding you of Lord of the Rings or Game of Thrones; in addition the surrounding area is superb for extensive trekking.

Iceland was never an entirely homogeneous society—and this is brought out in Faskrudsfjordur which has its own museum dedicated to French seamen that were once stationed there. The town hosts the French Days Festival annually and the town’s street names are in French. Faskrudsfjordur is also known for the lovely birdlife at the islets of Andey and Skrudur, as well as the trek to Mt. Sandfell.

The eastern treasures: ghosts and elves One of the most disputed topics in Iceland is the following question: Which town is more beautiful, Borgarfjordur eystri or Seydisfjordur? Many Icelanders are biased based on their genealogical heritage, that is to say many Icelanders can trace their ancestry to the nearby area. This area was also a constant source of inspiration for Iceland’s best known artist, Jóhannes Kjarval. Of the two villages, Seydisfjordur is renowned for being a tourist hub since it services the Smyril Line ferry that sails to Denmark and the Faroe Islands.

If you are driving and go through Fjardarheidi Heath, be on the lookout for the ghost of BjarnaDísa who froze to death on the heath. After a safe arrival in Seydisfjordur, some of the landmarks to check out include the Blue Church, where

concerts are held during the summertime, and Skaftfell, a center for visual arts.

Seydis­­fjordur also hosts the arts festival LungA every July.

For those who would like a peek into the past, the Technical Museum of East Iceland provides an overview of local history – and don’t forget to explore the village scenery with its Norwegian inspired houses. However, when visiting Seydisfjordur, the highlight is the surrounding nature, including hikes in Vestdalur Valley where archeological curiosities can be spotted.

For those interested in the elf lore, close to the village of Borgarfjordur Eystri is Álfaborg (Elf City), domicile to “hidden people” and most notably the regal residences of the East Iceland elves. Nearby is Kirkjusteinn or “Church Stone,” the elves’ place of worship. Elf lore and mysticism are a vital part of this region’s identity as evident in Kjarval’s works.

While visiting Borgarfjordur eystri, a quirky but charming place for a meal is the Álfacafé (Elf Café) where you can indulge in fresh seafood. Another place of interest is the Bakkagerdiskirkja Church with its stunning altar piece depicting a localized version of Jesus’ Sermon the Mount. This shows Jesus preaching from Álfaborg with the local Mt. Dyrfjöll in the background. Additional works by Kjarval can be found in Kjarvalsstofa housed in the community center, Fjarðarborg.

The great dragon might still guard the East but don’t worry; he’s there to protect you too. Besides, the people of East Iceland are hospitable and will welcome you with open arms. v For those interested in the elf lore, close to the village of Borgarfjordur Eystri is Álfaborg (Elf City), domicile to “hidden people” and most notably the regal residences of the East Iceland elves.

Your airport transfer to Reykjavik!

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Contact information: Tel. +354 540 1313 | iceland@grayline.is | airportexpress.is

Issue two 39

The wonderful West

Snæfellsnes Peninsula No words can truly describe the unique energy and atmosphere of Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

To those who have been there it may not come as a surprise that in certain New Age groups, Snæfellsjökull Glacier, the crowning glory of Snæfellsnes Peninsula, and the area around it, is believed to be one of the most powerful energy centers on earth.

by Gerður Harðardóttir Images: Courtesy of westiceland.is - Kirkjufell, THOR Photography, Lónsdrangar, THOR Photography

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n November 5, 1993 large crowds gath­­ ered at the root of Snæfellsjökull Glacier, the predicted landing pad for aliens from a far off galaxy—exact time of ar­­rival: 9:07 pm. Needless to say, ET was a no-show but what you’ll be sure to find at Snæ­­ fells­­nes Peninsula is some beauti­­ful landscape, interesting people and fasci­­nating history. The Snæfellsnes Peninsula is breath­­tak­­ingly exquisite in its dramatic and remote beauty. Its geology is also remarkable. Every type of mineral in Iceland is found in this region, and for those interested in birdwatching—it’s a paradise.

Snæfellsjökull National Park was established in 2001 to protect the area’s rare flora and fauna and the historically important relics and remains, and in 2008, the communities on the peninsula were the first in Europe to be certified by Green Globe, an international benchmarking system for sustaina­­ble travel and tourism. All over the penin­­­ sula, you’ll find interesting places to visit.

is something particularly romantic about Búðir (trust us on this one) and the church and the hotel have become quite popular for weddings. The scen­­ery is the perfect backdrop for that perfect wedding photo. The hotel restaurant is outstanding and renowned for its menu of fresh and original dish­­­­es made from local produce. The old hotel at Búðir, which burned down in 2001, is widely con­­sid­­ er­­ed the birthplace of the New Icelandic cuisine as we know it.

The entrance to the center of Earth In Jules Verne’s book, A Journey to the Center of the Earth, Arnarstapi (or Stapi) is the last stop the book’s leading characters make before their climb on top of Snæfellsjökull to find the entry to the passage that eventually brings them to the center of the earth. Today, Arnarstapi still is the ideal location for organizing a mount to Snæfellsjökull Glacier although you are unlikely to find any route leading you deep down to the earth’s core.

Hotel Budir on the southern tip of Snæ­­fellsnes Peninsula was selected by the read­­­ers of Condé Nast Traveler magazine as one of the best hotels in Northern Europe.

Hotel Budir In 2014, Hotel Budir on the southern tip of Snæ­­ fellsnes Peninsula was selected by the read­­­ers of Condé Nast Traveler magazine as one of the best hotels in Northern Europe—and it’s easy to under­­ stand why. The location offers guests a magical view of Snæfellsjökull Glacier, the beautiful sur­­ round­­ing area, and the old church beside it. Búðir boasts one of only handful of beaches in Iceland that is not covered in black sand but golden. There

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Whizzing across Snæfellsjökull Glacier on a snowmobile at about 1,410 meters above sea level gives you a panoramic view over the whole mountain range of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, across the Gulf of Faxaflói, toward Reykjavík to the south, and across the Breiðafjörður Bay toward the Westfjords to the north. A snowmobile ride on Snæfellsjökull Glacier around midnight in June/ July, when the midnight sun is out in all its glory is an exhilarating and amazing experience.

During the summer, a large colony of Arctic terns resides in Arnarstapi so you need to tread carefully as you make your way to the lovely little harbor that nestles below this small hamlet of summer cottages. The harbor is where you can set off on a popular 2.5 km coastal hiking trail that connects Arnarstapi to another small village, Hellnar, which is also worth a visit. The track follows the scenic coastline as it weaves its way through the lava.

The seaside and the cliffs are swarming with birds in summer and if you’re lucky you will be escorted along the way by a curious seal or two.

When you reach the fishing hamlet of Hellnar, your first stop should be the lovely little café Fjöru­­ húsið, which rests on the steep hill over­­look­­ing the picturesque cove of Hellnar. Fjöruhúsið offers homemade cooking at its best; fresh bread, pasta, cakes, waffles with whipped cream and jam, and an acclaimed fish soup so famous it’s even had a song dedicated to it. It’s not often that soup is the source of inspiration for a song so it goes without saying that it must be spectacular. Weather permitting, you can sit outside on the small porch and enjoy the incredible view over the sheltered and private cove of Hellnar as you sip your soup.

Djúpalónssandur Beach There’s a remote black sandy beach at the tip of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula known as Djúpalónssandur.

Surrounded by unique lava formations such as Gatklettur, a rock with a gaping hole in it, for cent­uries, Djúpalónssandur and the area around it served as a productive fishing post. Scattered on the beach are the remains of a British trawler, which was stranded off the coast in 1948 causing 14 men to lose their lives. At Djúpalónssandur, you can test your strength with the Stones of Trial, a set of four large stones, ranging from 23 kg to 154 kg that can be found on the beach. The beautiful and rounded black pebbles of Djúpalónssandur shaped by the re­­lentless pounding of the sea are called the Pearls of Djúpalón and even though it might be very tempting to take one or two of them home as a souvenir, we recommend that you don’t. The beach is believed to be haunted, and taking a stone just might bring on bad luck. Read more about Djúpalónssandur Beach and its popular hiking path on page 84 in this issue.

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watching. On a sunny summer day, you can sit on the deck, sip from a glass of white wine and nibble on freshly caught scallops; we promise you a truly unfor­­gettable travel experience. If you’re lucky you’ll see a pair of sea eagles attend to their offspring in its aerie as about 70% of the Icelandic sea eagles are to be found in and around Breiðafjörður. You also have a chance of seeing pools of whales swim by and a seal or two.

Lónsdrangar, a pair of giant rock pinnacles that rise to 75 meters from the extremely rugged coastline of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Lónsdrangar There are few places in Iceland more dramatic than the isolated Lónsdrangar, a pair of giant rock pinnacles that rise to 75 meters from the extremely rugged coastline of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula.

Lóns­­drangar and the hill Svartþúfa close by, are the remains of a volcanic crater, which the crushing waves of the surrounding sea have eroded to its current shape.

Svartþúfa is believed to be the home of elves, so be mindful. You might also want to take care around Þúfubjarg close by; according to an old folktale (and you know those always have some truth to them), a local poet came face to face with the devil himself right there on the spot.

Rotten shark anyone?

Pungent shark meat might not be everyone’s cup of tea, but nevertheless, a visit to Bjarnarhöfn is worth it, if only for the entertainment value. At Bjarnarhöfn, you meet the extremely friendly and fascinating curator and owner of Bjarnarhöfn, Hildi­­brandur Bjarnason, who will happily guide you through this family museum and its shark fish­­ing paraphernalia that chronicles his family’s 400-year-old tradition of catching and fermenting Greenland shark. If you don’t have the stomach for pungent, petrified shark meat, do at least have a sip of the shark liver oil; it’s believed to cure practically everything from the common cold to cancer.

Stykkishólmur If you saw Ben Stiller’s 2013 movie, The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, the quaint little town of Stykkis­­ hólmur, one of the locations where it was filmed, should look familiar to you. This charming village, overlooking Breiðafjörður Bay, is so popular with Icelanders (especially those of us living in and around Reykjavík), that quite a lot of us harbor the secret dream of owning a second home there. Most of the houses clustering around the small harbor date back around 150 years from a period when the village was an important Danish trading post.

Today, Stykkishólmur continues to be a center of commerce, fishing, transport and service. People of Stykkishólmur, intent on conserving their cultural heritage and history, have tastefully renovated many of the houses, reclaiming their former glory, making this village an attractive destination for those interested in Icelandic and Scandinavian architecture. A perfect example is Norska húsið, The Norwegian House, built by trader and amateur astronomer Árni Thorlacius in 1832. Today, the house is the home to a collection of antiquities be­­ longing to Árni and his family and has a charm­­ing shop on the ground floor.

Stykkishólmur is also of interest for its more recent architecture, such as the striking appear­­ ance of the new church and the town’s former library, which today features The Library of Water (www.libraryofwater.is) an art installation by US artist Roni Horn. Water from every major glacier in Iceland is contained in 24 glass columns that reach from floor to ceiling. The views from the former library through the large windows overlooking the harbor and across Breiðafjörður bay are quite im­­­­pressive as well. In town you will also find the im­­­­pressive Volcano Museum (www.eldfjallasafn.is) where a surprise artwork by Andy Warhol awaits you.

Stykkishólmur is a lovely town, ideal for walka­­ bouts – just what’s needed to burn off some of the calories gained at one of the town’s many fantastic restaurants.

Test your sea legs For those who love bird-watching, Breiðafjörður Bay boasts a spectacularly rich bird life with large colonies of puffins and other seabirds on and around the coastline and the bay’s countless islands and islets. Set off from Stykkishólmur and sail around this beautiful bay with Seatour’s ­ (www.seatours.is) catamaran cruise vessel for a few unforgettable hours of whale and bird-

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Digital detox Feeling stressed out by your hectic urban lifestyle?

Time for a “time out” from Facebook, Twitter, Insta­­ gram and other time-consuming social media? A trip to Flatey Island in the middle of Breiðafjörður Bay might be just what you need as chances are you might not be able to log on at all on this remote island. What you will discover is blissful tranquility, amazing birdlife, no traffic and colorful wooden houses dating from a period of prosperity on the island around 1900. These are just a few of the things this tiny island has in store for its visitors.

Flatey’s forte is its tranquil ambiance, the closeness to the sea and the magnificent views across Breiðafjörður Bay. If ever there was a place on earth where you could almost feel time stand still, this is it, and this laid back and relaxed atmosphere makes Flatey Island an exceptionally attractive and popular travel destination. The island is renowned for its abundant birdlife, and you will have a fantastic chance to watch puffins, Arctic terns, guillemots and red-necked phalaropes take their first tentative step into this world.

Although tiny in size (the island is only about one by two kilometers), for centuries Flatey Island served as an important cultural and artistic center, largely due to the monastery founded there in 1172. Through the centuries, Flatey Island has also been a place bustling with commerce. Today, habitation on the island is seasonal; most of the houses are only occupied during the summer, and that’s the time to visit.

Seatour’s ferryboat, Baldur, sails between Stykkis­­­hólmur on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and Brjánslækur on the south coast of the Westfjords and docks at Flatey Island twice daily during the summer. The ferry’s summer schedule gives tourists the opportunity to spend about 4 hours on the island if they don’t intend to stay the night.

During that time, you should visit the old church, built in 1926. The church’s ceiling and altarpiece are quite extraordinary—painted by Baltasar Samper, the father of film director and producer Baltasar Kormákur (Everest, Contraband), and illustrate scenes of life on the island. A visit to Hótel Flatey’s restaurant (www.hotelflatey.is) is also highly recommended for the restaurant’s freshly caught char, blue mussels and other fresh and local produce. Flatey offers a wealth of history and an amazing ambience. Caution: highly aggressive, dive-bombing Artic terns, though. v For more info on the wonders of Snæfellsnes, visit west.is

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16-0880 — HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA

Make sure you give yourself time to visit and explore. Share the experience #wheninKEF because good times are to be shared.

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FREE All your shopping at Keflavik Airport is tax free.

Meaning brands like 66째NORTH, Blue Lagoon, Farmers Market, Bose and Ray-Ban cost approx. 20% less.

Arrive early and take your time at the airport exploring the wide array of shops and restaurants.

Issue two 45

Promotion

The Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20 a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: info@lebowskibar.is www.lebowskibar.is

Lebowski Bar

The Reykjavik venue that rocks!

From the entrepreneurs that brought you Café Oliver and Vega­mot, comes Lebowski Bar. You can take a quick guess where the name and inspiration comes from and even if you didn’t like the infamous 1998 movie we are cert­ain you will love this bar.

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ust walking into this retro American bar puts a smile on your face and the mood is very 1960’s. You can hang out at the old fashioned porch and imagine you are in a real action movie. They don’t make bars like that anymore … oh wait they do, this one! Four big screens adorn the walls, so it’s also a great place to hang out when there are big events and sporting high­lights to be seen. And there’s also an “outside” area deco­­rated in a zappy Miami­-sunshine yellow that will cheer even the dullest of days.

Dine and jive Lebowski Bar really captures the diner style with cosy booths and a fabulous jukebox containing over 1,600 songs guaranteed to get those hips

swaying. If that’s not enough there’s a DJ on every night of the week so you won’t feel the pressure of select­ing all the music by yourself. The menus are the biggest in Iceland … no literally! Their phy­­sical dimensions are huge! Doesn’t everyone say that size really does matter?

Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarn­aise sauce option and succulent beef ten­ der­loin. If that’s not enough, choose from one of the 12 kinds of milkshakes to go with it.

to a new level, offering an astounding 18 varieties of White Russian, along with an extensive bar list.

Bowling at the bar

“Careful man, there’s a beverage here!”

The real icing on the Le­bowski cake, however, is the bar’s gen­u­­ine bowling lane – it’s a classic. How many bars have a bowling lane? In Iceland, not many, unless you count the bars at actual bowling alleys that certainly don’t have the cool vibe of Le­ bowski Bar. DJs and a bass player add to the music mix at weekends and there’s room to dance. Check it out dudes, you’re guaranteed a good time.

Jeffrey ‘the Dude’ Lebowski, the protagonist of the Coen brot­­her’s comedy, is renowned for his penchant for ‘White Russ­ians’ – vodka based cock­­ tails featuring coffee liqueurs and cream or milk.

The Lebowski Bar has taken this now-iconic drink

“Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarn­aise sauce option and succulent beef ten­der­loin.”

Lebowski Bar is my favorite place to hang out at. I love grabbing a good beer, a burger & topping it with a delicious milkshake.

Lebowski Bar plays oldies music which mak­­es the vibe like none other in Reykjavik.

They also have happy hour from 4-7pm and who doesn’t love that!

Bottom line, Lebowski Bar is a great main­stream bar where you can meet fellow travel­ers and have a drink with locals. Practice the word ‘SKÁL’ (Cheers) ~ Inga,@TinyIceland (www.tinyiceland.com)

FIND IT ON FACEBOOK and Twitter Twitter: @LebowskiBar - Instagram: #LebowskiBar - Open 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat

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Promotion

Bar Ananas & SmakkBarinn Klapparstigur 38 101 Reykjavik E-mail: bookings@barco.is Tel: +354 774 4 404

A taste of summer Whatever the season, you can count on it being summer at Bar Ananas and just to make things even more interesting, they’re now offering a brand new tapas experience in a cozy establishment downstairs called SmakkBarinn.

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eel the beach in the snow! Or at least have a little flashback while drinking cocktails with pineapple. Yup, it’s a beach bar in Iceland! A tropical theme designed to conquer over the cold winter. How COOL… WARM! is that? So when you don’t feel like doing that northern lights tour or going with all the other tourists into the Blue Lagoon, you can always check out the happy hour at Bar Ananas. Drink some cocktails and have the sur­­ roundings constantly reminding you of warm weather and the beach. Unique in Iceland because nobody thought it would work – well, they’ve all been proven wrong. Bar Ananas is a popular spot on the Reykjavik night­­life scene with cool DJ’s all the time. Below is a restaurant called SmakkBarinn which serves Icelandic tapas. You can even order from them and eat it at the beach. No reason to give up a good tan!

SmakkBarinn A cozy place in the heart of Reykjavík, SmakkBarinn and Bar Ananas are just a short walk from Laugavegur, Reykjavik’s main shopping street. SmakkBarinn offers tapas in jars and it’s all Icelandic with many cool combinations of food to try out. For the sake of variety, their menu changes all the time. Eating at SmakkBarinn is one thrill after another; you can taste everything on the menu without having to sell your car. All their tapas dishes are presented in jars perfect both for dining out and also just for getting a snack with some friends and still come out happy you didn’t spend a fortune on a whole meal. The next best part is the beer… Oh yeah! You can taste that too in jars. Whatever you decide to do in Iceland, you might want to try out some Icelandic tapas and party the night away at Iceland’s all season beach bar.

SmakkBarinn offers tapas in jars and it’s all Icelandic with many cool combinations of food to try out. For the sake of variety, their menu changes all the time. Eating at SmakkBarinn is one thrill after another; you can taste everything on the menu without having to sell your car.

You’ll find both Bar Ananas and SmakkBarinn on Facebook Issue two 47

Promotion

Vegamót Vegamótastíg 4 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 3040 email: vegamot@vegamot .is www.vegamot .is

Very nice Vegamót

The all-in-one restaurant This elegant but casual two floor restaurant is located in the heart of Reykja­vík on Vega­­mótastígur, close to Lauga­­­­vegur.

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he restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonder­ful quality of being an all-in-one, rest­aurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave!

Here the decor is rich on the Medi­­­terr­­ anean side and yet elegant with a jazzy ambiance.

In the summertime tables are moved outside to the shelt­er­ed terrace, probably one of the hottest

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places in Iceland during those short summer months. This place is famous for their ‘fresh fish of the day’, served all day from lunch hours. It has very rea­­sonable prices for quality, portions and presenta­ tion and guests can choose from a wide variety of decadent dess­erts – if they make it that far.

Try their excellent selection of good beers. Every day there is a special offer on bottled beers worth a taste.

“The restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonder­ful quality of being an all-in-one, rest­aurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave!”

Promotion

Issue two 49

Promotion

Hressingarskálinn Austurstræti 20 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 561 2240 facebook.com/hressingarskalinn

Coffee house, restaurant & night club Hressingarskálinn is a warm place with plenty of seating and a great loca­­tion in down­ town Reykjavik. It’s one of the few places that open at 9 AM to serve breakfast for hungry travelers or locals. Hressingarskálinn is a big part of Reykja­vík’s history; the house was built in 1802 and the restaurant was established in 1932. The house has hosted Hress­ingarskálinn since 1932.

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itting down for a coffee has a magnetic effect on Iceland’s most talented art­­­ ists and writers. Smokers can have a seat on a heated patio with service all day. Over the summer, this place really comes alive. The yard is completely sheltered from the wind, allowing you to enjoy food and beverages in the bright sunlight. Thursday to Sunday is usually packed with people from all over

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the world. It’s a great place to meet strangers for some interesting story sharing. Live bands play on Fridays and Sat­urdays, guaranteeing a crowd before all the popular DJ’s hit the floor with party tunes from 01:00-04:30 AM. The menu consists of great selections and offers everything from breakfast to a fantastic dinner. Hressingarskálinn offers Icelandic food for curious visitors. You can always try the traditional Icelandic meat soup. If

not, there’s lamb or the fish stew – You won’t be disappointed. Hress­­­ingar­­­skálinn is stylish and old at the same time, a history well preserved.

Check out Hress­­­ingar­skálinn for great prices and awesome fun!

“The menu consists of great sel­­ect­­ions and offers every­thing from breakfast to a fantastic dinner.”

Promotion

Sakebarinn Laugavegur 2 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 777 3311 www.facebook.com/Sakebarinn

The one and only choice for Sushi & Sticks …so you can check it off your bucket list Located in a loft on Laugavegur, the main shopping street, in one of Iceland’s old­est buildings (1886) is a great new restaurant with a great view and an amazing at­mosphere called Sakebarinn. In its beautiful location, surrounded by windows that look down on Austurstræti, (an extension of Laugavegur leading to the Old Town) and up Skólavörðustígur (known for its cafés, local boutiques and art shops with native works), Sakebarinn lies in the very heart of downtown Reykjavík. In the winter you can see the Northern Lights from the balcony and in the summer, the amazing summer sunsets over the harbor.

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he owners of Sakebarinn have a keen interest for the arts and crafts and a wealth of creative assets to play with.

Although Sake­­barinn has a strong foundation in pure Japanese cuisine the current style of the restaurant proves that the owners are not afraid to break some of the rules. To them sushi is meant to be an art form.

Along with its handcrafted sushi, Sakebarinn also offers a sel­­ection of sticks and other meat cours­­es, featuring whale and horse and anything that’s fresh and interesting that day. Why live on an island in the middle of the Atlantic if you’re not going take advantage of the natural fauna? Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and with a little some­­thing for

everyone. There’s love on every plate – You will feel it with each taste.

It’s no accident that the place is named Sake­­bar­­ inn. It does feature the country’s largest sel­­ection of sake and a shot before a meal can truly enhance the feel of real Japanese dining. It comes in a sur­­prising range of flavors too, everything from really girly fruit sake to the fire spewing alcohol con­­tent of some of the more butch types; potato sake, warm and cold sake and Japanese plum wine. And then of course are the bottles that didn’t make it on to the menu because no one could read the labels and therefore no one knows what they are. Mystery sake! Sakebarinn is a place born to show­­case the talents the staff have collected over the years work­­ing at their first Sushi restau­­rant call­­ed Sushibarinn, which is located on the first

floor in the same house. A year and a wild ride later, this sushi family has in­­corporated a bunch of new and talented people with some great new recipes and skills they didn’t know they had and didn’t even know existed. The walls are hand painted by them, the wine selected by them, the menu is designed by them and the place is loved by them. They also love to present food so their clients become part of their love for sushi.

The look on your face is what they are aiming for, the look of enjoyment.

“Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and a little some­­thing for everyone.”

Sakebarinn Opening hours: Mon-Sun 5:00 PM – 00:00 Issue two 51

Promotion

Tíu dropar Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes Laugavegur 27 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 551 9380

Tíu dropar / Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes Tíu dropar (Ten Drops) is a café located in the cellar of Lauga­veg­ur 27. This is one of the oldest cafés in Iceland and for the last 30 years to this very day they serve freshly baked pancakes and waffles á la the grandmothers of Iceland, with lots of whipped cream and Icelandic jam.

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en Drops is also known for its home­­ made cakes, baked from scratch ac­­cord­ing to old re­­­cip­­­es, and of course, their hot cocoa, known by many of their guests as ‘The Only Real Hot Cocoa on Earth’. If you’re not in the mood for old fashioned Icelandic good­ies you can choose from an assortment of light dishes, tea, wines and beer.

We recommend the French meat soup, a pop­­ular dish and another old favorite.

Where did the café go?

Don’t be surprised if you can’t find the café after 18:00. Some­­thing happens around that time that trans­­­­forms this little cellar into a French wine room known as Le Chateaux des Dix Gouttes or the Castle of the Ten Drops. This is a lovely place to sit and enjoy good win­­es along with cheese, ham or

other light dishes for as little as 500 ISK a plate, and don’t worry, the coffee, co­coa and pancakes are still there! Lovely French music sets the mood and the ambiance is perfect for a deep conversation.

Guests want­­­ing to break out in song can have their turn after 22:00 on the weekends, as long as they can find some­­one to play the antique piano given to the café’s owner, David Bensow, by a regular.

Choose your wine Guests can have their say on the wine list of Le Cha­te­aux des Dix Gouttes and David will make special orders to fulfill their wish­es. In fact, he wel­­comes any sug­gestions making the wine list one of the more, well-endowed in Reykjavík. He’s especially interested in serving good Port to his clientele.

Check out the ten drops twitt­er feed and find both café and wine room on Facebook.

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Intimate climate The little wine room and café seat only 40 guests and the mood is set in the early evening. It’s safe to say this is just the kind of place that was missing from the brimm­­­ing Icelandic bar and café scene - a perfect sett­ing for a small group of friends to reminisce over the good old days or for a first date.

Be sure to taste David’s “wine of the week” or let his fair beer prices amaze you.

“Don’t be surprised if you can’t find the café after 18:00. Some­­thing happens around that time that trans­­forms this little cellar into a French wine room known as Le Chateaux Des dix Gouttes or the Castle of the Ten Drops.”

Promotion

Kol Restaurant Skólavörðustígur 40 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 7474 www. kolrestaurant .is

Cocktails and feel good food at Kol Restaurant Be prepared for a memorable night out at Kol Restaurant.

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ituated at Skólavörðustígur 40 in Reykja­­­­­­vík, Kol Restaurant’s design con­­­­­cept is a mixture of warm modern Icelandic feel with international touc­­ h­­es and the furniture of designer Tom Dixon playing the central role. The rest­­­­­­­­aur­­ant is on two floors with an open kitchen and a mighty bar. Both floors are divided into spac­­ es with cozy leather couches and a variety of diff­­­er­­ ent table settings. Kol Restaurant centers on the bar where the country’s best cocktail bar­­tenders

serve craft cocktails from the best ingredients available and offer an ambitious cocktail list to begin and complete the dining experience.

The selection is feel good comfort food with a twist on classic cuisine. The menu offers a variety of finger food, salads, fish, steaks and dess­­ erts. The head chefs, Einar Hjaltason and Kári Þor­­­­­steinsson, have over 20 years of ex­­­perience at Reykjavik’s best restaurants as well as work ex­­­perience in several known restaurants in London, for example Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons, Dabbous,

Noma, 28/50 and Texture. Don’t miss out on this brand new gem on the Reykjavik restaurant scene.

This is a great place to begin a fun evening.

“Kol Restaurant cent­­ers on the bar where the coun­try’s best cock­­tail bar­­tend­­ers serve craft cocktails from the best in­­ gredi­ents available and offer an ambi­­ tious cocktail list to begin and com­­plete the dining exper­­ience.”

Kol Restaurant Open: Monday-Friday 11:30-23:00 / Saturday-Sunday 17:30-23:00 Issue two 53

Promotion

Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is

When in Iceland, go Danish!

You know that Iceland used to be a Danish colony, right? Even though inde­­pend­ence from the Danish Crown was necessary, Icelanders still celebrate every­thing Danish, so don’t expect to meet a big Danish crowd at The Danish Pub, they are all Icelanders just act­ing like they’re Danish. Really!

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his bar has made a name for itself in the Reykjavik social scene and is known locally as Den Danske Kro (we all just want a reason to speak Danish in public). This popular downtown venue serves a remarkable selection of beers in­cluding the famous Danish white beers, the darker more malt brews and of course the tra­­ditional and almost obligatory Tuborg and Carls­­ berg. If you come during the Christmas sea­­son you can taste some of the renowned Christ­­­mas brews, very popular in demand. Just ask for Julebryg (“you-le-bree”).

within the pub – an off-the­-wall design in its most literal sense!

Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some darts, try the custom­ary Gammel Dansk bitt­ers or catch some live football. Watch the world go by on the outside terrace and have a taste of the tra­­ ditional smørre­brød (fantastic open sand­­­wiches).

You can pre-order these delicious snacks for larger groups.

Does this sound too tranquil?

Do as the Danes do

The Danish Pub is nothing if not a place to party.

The at­­mos­­phere is easy going and you can choose from a variety of shots and even cocktails if you’re not in the mood for a beer (Does that ever happen?).

The owners of the Danish Pub strive to create the true Danish atmos­phere known among the Danes (and Danish-prone Ice­­landers) as “hyggeligt”. If you truly are Danish this can be your “home away from home”. And in this spirit, check out the “house”

Reminder: If you thought you were in for a quiet night guess again, The Danish Pub features live music every night with special appearances and unad­­vertised happenings on Wednesdays, Fridays

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and Saturdays. Put your musical knowledge to the test at the Wednesday night pop-quiz; the prizes will surprise you.

Best local pub in Reykjavík Wherever you‘re from you’ll want to have a great time while vis­iting Reykjavík. The people of Reykja­ vík do anyway, so they flock to The Danish Pub for a beer “en øl” dur­­ing the Happy Hour every day from 16-19. The place is crowded and you’re guaran­­teed to meet some fun, “lee glaath” people.

“Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some darts, try the custom­ary Gammel Dansk bitt­ers or catch some live football. Watch the world go by on the outside terrace and have a taste of the traditional smørre­brød (fantastic open sandwiches).”

Promotion

Kaldi Bar Laugavegur 20 b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.facebook.com/KaldiBarCafe

A breath of fresh air

Cool as Kaldi Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars.

An oasis in central Reykjavík.

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t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos­­­phere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, there’s a great outside seating area in a cozy backyard. Known for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottl­es, Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew.

Drop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local.

“Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmos­­­phere in a rustic setting.”

Opening Hours Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 noon - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 noon - very late / Price list Beer on draft 0.5 – 1,100 IKR Glass of vine – 1,200 IKR / Happy hour 16:00-19:00 / Beer on draft 0.5 – 650 IKR / Glass of vine – 650 IKR Issue two 55

Promotion

Kopar Restaurant Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant .is / info@koparrestaurant .is

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor Kopar Restaurant is situated by Reykjavik‘s romantic harbor, in one of the old green fisherman‘s huts.

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he fishing industry still thrives in Reykja­­­vik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the morning, fishermen go out to sea and return later with their catch of the day. As you stand on the pier you can feel the history of Reykjavik and watch the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and young kids with their rods trying their luck off the pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere of the old harbor is all part

of the experience when you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans. They are especially proud of their crab soup, made with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the fruit of the ocean.

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She pre­­­ pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner,

in­­tent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere, delicious food and the best view in town. When visiting Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is a must.

“Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She prepares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.”

Kopar Restaurant

Opening hours - Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 - Fridays from 11:30-23:30 - Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 - Sundays from 18:00-22:30 56

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Promotion

Reykjavik Fish Trygg vagata 8 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 5656 Email: info@reykjavikfish.is www.reykjavikfish.is

Reykjavik Fish In the heart of Reykjavík, right next to the old harbor, you can find Reykjavík Fish, a new restaurant offering ultra-fresh seafood. Ultra-fresh means that the fish you order today was swimming last night.

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he menu at Reykjavik Fish is structured to provide hearty portions of quality sea food at very reasonable prices. The crown jewel of the menu is the spelt battered fish and chips; crispy and healthy at the same time, a perfect meal with a nice Icelandic beer.

If you’re up for something a little more traditional Icelandic try the “Plokkari” (plucked fish). Their

Reykjavik Fish Open from 11 AM to 10:30 PM

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recipe is the same as used in the old days except with fresh fish of course.

Perfect location and Icelandic seafood at its finest. Reykjavik Fish has plenty of seats and wel­comes everyone, solo travelers and big groups alike. When you come to Reykjavík and would like to try a nice fish and chips just look for the big red door.

Perfect location and Icelandic seafood at its finest. Reykjavik Fish has plenty of seats and wel­comes everyone, solo travelers and big groups alike. When you come to Reykjavík and would like to try a nice fish and chips just look for the big red door.

LOFTIÐ // Austurstræti 9 // Second floor facebook.com/loftidbar

Promotion

VON mathús and bar Strandgata 75 220 Hafnarfjordur Tel: +354 583 6000 E-mail: info@vonmathus.is www.vonmathus.is

VON mathús

Seasonal Icelandic cuisine with passion and enthusiasm The idea to open VON mathús could be attributed to Einar Hjaltason and Kristjana Þura Berþórsdóttir’s enthusiasm and passion to realize their dream, but location and the demand for a diverse and local food culture, also played a big part in their decision. VON mathús emphasizes seasonal Icelandic cuisine combined with ingredients that complement the each dish perfectly.

Acclaimed chef Einar Hjaltason, acclaimed and experienced chef studied at Grillið, in Hótel Saga, one of the finest dining establishments in Iceland. He also took part in the opening of the Sjávargrillið restaurant. In 2012 he set his sights on England where he facilit­ ated in the opening of a new fine dining rest­aurant by the name of Dabbous, which, only eight months after opening, received a Michelin Star. After returning to Iceland, he became a head chef at KOL restaurant on Skólavörðustígur, where he recently resigned to focus on opening VON mathús.

Kristjana Þura, managing partner at VON, is born and raised in Hafnafjörður and has extensive knowl­­edge in the restaurant- and the hotel sector of the service industry, having spent the last ten years working in both.

Homey atmosphere In 2013, when the couple discovered their first

child was on the way, it was as if Hafnafjörður called out to the young family. Shortly before the arrival of their daughter in early 2014, they’d al­­ ready settled in. VON actually means “hope” and the family now hopes to make their mark on the food and restaurant culture in this “town in the lava.” They felt that VON was especially appropriate for the optimism that is ever present in this port town. Einar and Kristjana associate “hope“ with “fresh and healthy,“ hence they place a heavy emphasis on seafood- and sea-based ingredients and strive to use only the freshest ingredients in their dishes.

The fundamental concept of VON mathús is that there is always a homey atmosphere where personal comfort and professional service are interwoven. Their hope is that this combination along with consistently great food will make every customer satisfied and delighted whenever they dine at their establishment.

Kristjana Þura, managing partner at VON, is born and raised in Hafnafjörður and has extensive knowl­­edge in the restaurant- and the hotel sector of the service industry, having spent the last ten years working in both.

Opening hours: Tuesdays-Thursdays: 11:30-22:00 I Fridays-Saturdays: 11:30-23:00 I Sundays: 11:30-14:00 I Mondays: Closed I Happy Hour: 16:00-18:00

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Promotion

Brygg jan Brugghús – Bistro and Brewery Grandagarður 8 101 Reykjavik Email: booking@brygg janbrugghus.is Tel: +354 456 4040 brygg janbrugghus.is

Bryggjan Brugghús – Bistro and Brewery Bryggjan is Iceland’s first microbrewery and bistro located at the trendy Reykjavik harbor-side.

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ffering delicious local food in a cool atmosphere, complemented by world class beverages brewed on site and pumped directly from the brewery itself, Bryggjan is large enough to accommodate up to 280 guests in its fun and lively atmosphere.

The Bistro

A gourmet meal served at Bryggjan Bistro is an experience to be remembered. Bryggjan Bistro offers diverse, high-qual­ ity dishes, with an emphasis on fresh seafood caught off the shores of Iceland. Also served are traditional courses carefully selected by Master Chef Margret Rikhardsdottir.

The Bar and Brewery Bryggjan produces and serves a variety of beers and carefully selected wines. The bar has 12 beer pumps pumping beer straight out of the brewery, and their custom-made wine cupboard maintains a perfect temperature for its rich selection of wines.

Bergur Gunnarsson, Bryggjan’s master brewer, applies his knowledge and expertise to pairing their beers with de­­licacies from the kitchen while Arturo Santoni Rousselle, Bryggjan’s wine waiter, carefully selects the wines. Dominik Roman Kocon mixes cocktails with utmost care and expertise.

The Brewery Room The Brewery Room can accommodate about 100 guests, and is suitable for groups and most occasions. The room can be closed off with beautiful curtains and is equipped with a projector, and all the modern facilities required for feasts, meetings or conferences.

Bergur Gunnarsson, Bryggjan’s master brewer, applies his knowledge and expertise to pairing their beers with de­­licacies from the kitchen while Arturo Santoni Rousselle, Bryggjan’s wine waiter, carefully selects the wines. Dominik Roman Kocon mixes cocktails with utmost care and expertise.

Bryggjan Brugghús – Bistro and Brewery

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Lobster & Stuff, Geirsgata 3.

By the old harbour in downtown Reykjavik Open from 11:30am – every day of the week.

VerbúÐ Lobs L obst ter er

11

tuf ff f Æ sstu

! i est.1913

WE LOVE LOBSTER AND Hall& Oates Lobster & Stuff specializes in different delicious lobster courses. Enjoy our classic but-alway-so-insanely-good-lobster-soup, grilled or panfried lobster tails as well as our popular lobster sandwich or the lobster dumplings and tempura on the bar menu.

But we also love other gourmet stuff like our decadent dry aged rib-eye-burger, the 2die4-beefcarpaccio, fantastic fish&chips and of course the basic but brilliant “catch-of-the-day” fish specialty.

Fantastic for lunch, great for dinner ...or just drop by for drinks at the bar. ...and we take much pride in the rock´n´ roll fact that The Sugarcubes used the house to rehearse from 1986-1987!

want to book a table? tel. + 354 552 0011 verbud11 is • verbud11@verbud11 is verbud11.is verbud11@verbud11.is

VERBÚÐ 11

VERBUD11 Issue two 63

Promotion

Gamla Vínhúsið / The Old Winehouse Vesturgata 4, 220 Hafnarfjordur Laugavegur 73, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 565 1130 in Hafnarfjordur Tel: +354 565 1188 in Reykjavik E-mail: gamlavinhusid@gamlavinhusid.is gamlavinhusid.is

The Old Winehouse Located in the heart of Hafnarfjordur, Gamla Vínhúsið— also known as The Old Winehouse—is a family owned restaurant known for its good food, good prices and friendly services.

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he Old Winehouse is situated in one of Hafnarfjordur’s old­­ est houses, now over 135 years old, infusing a historical under­­tone to a cozy atmosphere. The proprietors of the Old Winehouse pride themselves in their steaks which go the gamut from minke whale and horse fillets to more tra­­­ditional lamb and beef steaks. The restaurant prepares freshly caught fish from local fishermen, serving both Icelandic cod and salmon.

A night to remember Make the most of your stay. After enjoying a dinner at the Old Wine­­­ house, you can relax in the cozy bar on the second floor. The bar has ex­­ceptional service and a great selection of wine, spirits and beer, plus you will probably meet some friendly locals while you’re there, turning it into a night to remember.

The Old Winehouse has spread the taste of Iceland to a new location.

Now you can visit the new version of the Old Winehouse on Laugavegur in Reykjavik’s center

The proprietors of the Old Winehouse pride themselves in their steaks which go the gamut from minke whale and horse fillets to more tra­­­ditional lamb and beef steaks.

Opening hours: Reykjavik I Mondays-Tuesdays: 17:00 – 22:00 I Fridays: 17:00 – 23:00 I Saturdays: 18:00 – 23:00 I Sundays: 18:00-22:0 Hafnarfjörður I Mondays-Tuesdays: 12:00 – 21:00 I Fridays: 12:00 – 22:00 I Saturdays: 18:00 – 22:00 I Sundays: 18:00-21:00

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ENNEMM / SÍA / NM69061

Spectacular Whale Exhibition

ÐU R

REYKJAVÍK HARBOUR

SK FI

GR AN

HARPA

ATA

AN

AU ST

MÝRARG

ÁN

“Wonderful one of a kind museum!”

Loved this museum with its life-sized models of 23 different species of whales!

Interesting and informative exhibits, well worth a visit! The staff was friendly and helpful, and we loved the gift shop, too.

ISL ÓÐ

Come and see full-scale models of the 23 whale species that have been found off Iceland’s coastal waters. Walk amongst life-size models, check out the interactive media and explore these majestic creatures in our family-friendly exhibition.

DA GA R

Walk Amongst the Giants

We are here

WELCOME TO OUR CAFÉ | GET A SOUVENIR IN OUR GIFT SHOP | BOOK A WHALE WATCHING TOUR Fiskislóð 23-25 | Reykjavík | Tel. +354 571 0077 | Open every day 10 am – 5 pm | www.whalesoficeland.is

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Iceland from above

Þrihnukagigur Volcano “Iceland is the ideal place for aerial photography reportage, thanks to astonishing landscapes and amazing scenery,” says photographer Enrico Pescantini at pescart.com who visited Iceland last August.

Pescantini shot various locations in Iceland by drone. Here is the Þrihnukagigur Volcano close to Reykjavik. v

Visit pescart.com for more photos by Enrico Pescantini.

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www.n1.is/en

facebook.com/enneinn

instagram.com/enneinn

Tank up at N1 on your way around Iceland Your convenient one-stop on your journey

HOT DOG World renowned!

MeaT sOup Classic Icelandic meal

At selected N1 service stations

COFFEE & Croissant

Complimentary

Complimentary

at selected N1 service stations

at selected N1 service stations

Wi-Fi

Tasty breakfast

Wi-Fi

Stop for fuel, grab a quick and delicious bite, a tasty cup of coffee, travel supplies, books and magazines or anything else you need before hitting the road again.

With 95 locations around Iceland, N1 is always nearby. Find your nearest location and plan your trip at www.n1.is/en.

Issue two 67

Keep moving

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Living on the edge

The knifemaker Knives have held a special fascination, especially for men, probably since the first one was made. For the past 30 years, one of Iceland‘s own has been crafting these tools, first for himself and since 1996 for the general public. His name is Palli Kristjansson and he’s known as The Knifemaker.

Palli’s education began with a course taught by a Danish blacksmith who was just making blades. After learning from him, Palli figured out the rest. He explains, “My father was always doing every­­­thing with his own hands. I too, could just look at a piece of leather and know what to do with it. It’s in my genes.”

“When it was my hobby, I made blades and handles just like the Vikings. We know how they did it by examining the ones found in their graves. If I am making a simple knife like during the Viking times, I use their techniques,” Palli says.

“I also make knives with other types of blades and from more difficult materials.

For example, most of the time, Vikings used wood for the handle. I use wood as well, but I also use horse hooves, antlers from reindeer, horns from sheep and cows, and whale tooth. I make hunting knives, and knives for outdoor life, and everything I make is for practical use. I think half are used, and half are on display,” Palli surmises.

Why handmade?

Go around where manufactured knives are sold, and it’s true, you’ll see some fine selections. Palli’s knives are all hand­­made, although in some instances, when the customer asks for it, the steel is manufactured, the rest is handmade.

What’s the advantage of handmade? “The ones I make, usually fit better in the hand.

Also, in factories, they often use a lower grade of steel. Another thing that people like about my knives is that they are one of a kind. I also sign and number them, keeping a record of the year and month they were made, which makes them more valuable to collectors.”

A global market As with all good news, word gets around, and such is the case with Palli’s craftwork. Most of his business comes from collectors overseas, customers in over a hundred countries.

“Sometimes people come to Iceland just to visit my workshop and buy my knives. They send their family to tour the country while they take a knifemaking class with me.”

“Men and knives are similar to women and shoes,” Palli expounds. “I can see that same gleam in the eyes of men when they come to buy my knives that I see in my wife’s eyes when she’s shopping for shoes,” he says.

The process Making knives is a step by step process, and while it can take Palli about 4 or 5 hours of labor to make a small knife, a big knife with harder materials can take several days. Then the glue has to dry, and that can take another few days.

Knifemakers in other parts of the world may do as Palli does, going high and low to find good quality materials. He does not like plastic. “I only use natural materials and the wood, horns, hooves and antlers I use, have to be well taken care of and dried for up to two years.

“For the handles, I search far and wide to find just the right materials. Sometimes I even find suitable things at the local flea market,” he admits. “I cut down the ebony from statues I buy there. For bones, horns and hooves I go to the slaughterhouse, and I go to the farmers in the East (that is, on the other side of the country) to get reindeer antlers found there. Reindeer shed their antlers every year, and that’s where they roam.

“For the blades, you need good steel. Good steel is three layered—hard in the middle and soft on the outside. If you just use hard steel, it can break, but I will use stainless steel and Damascus steel when people ask for it; otherwise, I use handmade blades. When knifemaking was just my hobby, I made my blades. Now I buy them.

“Handmade blades come in great variety, unlike manufactured blades,” Palli explains. The Danish blacksmith I get many of my handmade blades from has many different types. The manufacturers only

Issue two 69

make a couple of types. What I buy depends on the kind of knife I want to make.

“The sheaths,” Palli continues, “I make mostly out of leather treated in a way that makes it hard.

On the sheath I make a pattern for each knife.

Sometimes I decorate it with Viking designs and sometimes the customer has an idea that he’d like me to put on it. I decorate the handles with a 70-year-old dentist drill that was a gift from an old dentist I knew. It’s an incredible tool. After decorating it I sew it together,” Palli concludes.

“I also make knives with other types of blades and from more difficult ma­­terials. For example, most of the time, Vikings used wood for the handle. I use wood as well, but I also use horse hooves, antlers from reindeer, horns from sheep and cows, and whale tooth.”

Teaching others Knifemaking is a vanishing art and as with the whole range of arts and crafts, there are time-honored methods that have been passed down as family heirlooms. Palli is faithful to the tradition and has a regular knifemaking class where he gives courses. Besides teaching in Iceland, he has, on occasion, been invited to teach classes in other countries. Last year he taught in Finland, which he really enjoyed. “I taught my wife, Soffía Alice to make knives. She makes all the kitchen knives and it’s now her full-time job!” Palli remarks with a smile. You can check out Soffía Alice’s knives at www. kitchenknives.is.

A labor of love Palli calls it a “job” but does he merely view this craft as a job he has to do? “I am always happy when I wake up in the morning and go downstairs to my workshop. My friends say I don’t go to work—just to play. Even in my dreams, I am making knives, and I am smiling all the time.

When we have been on a vacation the first thing I do when we come back is to go into my workshop—just the smell makes me happy.” v

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THIS IS IT 2016 WELCOME

WHALE WATCHING • HÚSAVÍK • ICELAND

LS ALS INA IGIN RIG OR EO TH THE

Visit The Gentle Giants

up north in Húsavík – The Whale Watching Capital of Iceland “Once in a lifetime” You jump into an old oak whale-fishing boat and you are slowly sailed to the bay where all these giants hang around. You see them breathe, swim, jump... while the stuff gives you the most interesting informations about the wild life and the whales you are about to see/you have just seen.

“Amazing experience” In speedboats searching for whales in de fjord. We saw 4 Fin Whales (far away but clearly) en two humpbacks close by. Amazing experience! thanks to Sverrir Yngvi Karlsson our captain and Ann-Sophie Behrendt our guide.

Akureyri

150 YEARS OF FAMILY HISTORY IN THE BAY

Húsavík

Reykjavík

Tel. +354 464 1500 · www.gentlegiants.is · info@gentlegiants.is HÚSAVÍK

Issue two 71

MEMBER OF ICEWHALE – THE ICELANDIC WHALE WATCHING ASSOCIATION

Tie the knot

Come for the nature– stay to get married Move over Hawaii – Iceland is THE new picture perfect wedding destination!

by Marvin Lee Dupree Photos: Bragi Þor Josefsson / Icelandweddingphoto.com

Every couple dreams of a picture perfect wedding and the cautious path for obtaining such a story­­ book wedding has been to seek tried and true tropical destinations. Barring that, some go for the standard savings crushing banquet wedding with drunk uncles and cousins and plus-ones you may never see again. On top of that many weddings are exercises in stress Olym­­ pics, where the process is nerve-racking.

Being adventurous when planning a wedding has thus often never been an option for many couples; yet mill­­ ennials and others have been bucking this trend as of late. Now, a number of future newlyweds are passing up the tropical paradise option and eloping to the land of fire and ice for their adventure wedding.

Getting married in Iceland Icelanders are famously easygoing and liberal, always trying to one-up our Nordic cousins across “the bay” who focus on “hygge” – which means “a sense of well-being or relaxation.” Think candles, tea and a warm Nowhere else fireplace with relaxing music during the in the world cold winter darkness. But at the same time will you get many Icelanders have an innate sense of waterfalls, caves, wanderlust and adventure, which might idyllic turf farms explain the stubbornness of our forbearers and glaciers who stayed on this island through all the within such a catastrophic events to eventually make it short driving the super awesome place it currently is. distance from Evidently, because we are so liberal it is each other. no small wonder that in recent years same sex couples have flocked to our whims­ic­­ al island that celebrates diversity in all its forms; of course the incredible and otherworldly scenery has had its hand in helping people make up their minds. Due to the islands unique nature, wedding photos from Iceland tend to have an aura of mysticism and romanticism that few other places can boast of. A quick glance on the Internet reveals numerous ac­­counts of how the breathtaking scenery has given rise to haunt­ingly beautiful images; nowhere else in the world will you get waterfalls, caves, idyllic turf farms and glaciers within such a short driving distance from each other.

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Of course, this trend has not gone unnoticed and various companies have begun to promote the idea of getting married in Iceland. For a brief example, take a look at the website icelandweddingplanner.com. But be warned, if you are seeking a white wedding in a formal setting, then they are definitely not up your alley because like they say themselves: “If you don’t want to get wet or dirty or to taste the unpredictable weather in Iceland, then we cannot help you.” Their brand is adventure and uniqueness.

Viking weddings After reading about the unique nature, you might be wondering about how weddings took place before in Iceland.

Another fascinating aspect of having a wedding in Iceland is the tremendous awakening and increase of weddings being performed by the Ásatrúarfélagið or the Ásatrú Association, which many people have taken advantage of during the past few years.

The Ásatrúarfélag traces its roots to Iceland’s pagan past, so conjure up an image of the Norse pantheon of gods, including Odin, Thor and the trickster god Loki. However, to portray this religion with just an ethereal base does it a great injustice; in its essence the Ásatrú society, as described on their website, “is based on tolerance, honesty, honor and respect for past culture and nature,

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with everybody being responsible for themselves and their own actions.” To the well-earned credit of the Ásatrúarfélag, they have been steadfast in their tolerance of welcoming and performing weddings according to their revival of the pagan customs despite criticism from abroad from supposed heathen groups, who for some prodigiously strange reasons have tried to explain to the descendants of Vikings how paganism should be practiced. So if you want to have a real pagan wedding, then look no further.

However, for those who prefer a more traditional civil union wedding, the Icelandic Ethical Humanist Association (Siðmennt) has been marrying couples of all sexual orientations. If you are

national motto is “þetta reddast” or “everything will turn out ok.” Having alleviated any anxiety about the matter, let’s get down to the nittygritty. Creating a memorable wedding in Iceland has never been easier, especially since there are Icelandic companies offering grand package deals for couples. With that being said, plenty of couples have utilized the services of Pink Iceland, which has fabulous reviews including a certificate of excellence from Tripadvisor. If you are wondering about the name—then no worries, Pink Iceland accepts all sexual orientations. Their main aim is to spread joy and create happiness— because inclusivity is the Icelandic way.

Taking advantage of Pink Iceland’s help will help smooth over any complications and they’ll handle all the tedious and bureaucratic parts of the wedding arrangements. And frankly speaking, you should not be dealing with legal requirements and formalities while in Iceland; it just goes against the grain of our national character. Why is that, you may ask? Because this is a nation built by farmer-marauders that left Norway to escape the tyrannical taxing of Norwegian kings.

Just living in Iceland is an adventure, so getting married in Iceland is definitely more adventurous than doing it in Rome or Paris, or even some tropical island. Sure, Paris is supposedly the love capital of the world, but if you want a wedding during the midnight solstice by a beautiful waterfall or on a glacier with a Super Jeep, then Pink Iceland can get it done. Helicopter? Yep. Do you want your wedding on a boat with the possibility of whales, porpoises and puffins in the background? Do you want your wedding photos to become the envy of other couples? Or do you simply prefer a serene event? No matter what, your wedding can be custom-made to fulfill your dreams. Could you do that in Rome or Paris?

Also why pick a cumbersome wedding with way too many people, when you can have an intimate event with the people closest to you?

Just check out Pink Iceland’s homepage or Instagram to start your nuptial odyssey as soon as possible. Another company that caters to couples planning their nuptials here is Extreme Iceland which has an extensive index of venues to choose from for an unforgettable wedding.

No matter whom you seek out, you will be glad you took the road less travelled and because this is Iceland—everything will definitely turn out ok. v Just living in Iceland is an adventure, so getting married in Iceland is definitely more adventurous than doing it in Rome or Paris, or even some tropical island.

interested in this option, you can find more information at their website sidmennt.is. By registering there, you can request the their ceremonial services, where they promise “an atmosphere of dignity, joy and personal experience” with “no religious content.” No matter what society you seek out, having a wedding in Iceland is always a majestic experience.

Taking the plunge Now that you have decided on getting married, you might ask yourself about the logistics side of it all. Well, cast all worries aside because planning a wedding in Iceland is a piece of cake— as you most likely know the Icelandic

Wedding photos from Iceland All photos in this article are courtesy of photographer Bragi Þor Josefsson at icelandweddingphoto.com. Bragi has a passion for photography and specializes in weddings photography where he successfully utilizes his extensive background in interior, lifestyle, documentary and portrait photography to create unique memories for happy couples.

AQUARACER CALIBRE 5

Cristiano Ronaldo is born to break all the records. His motivation is to win at every occasion to challenge the human statistics. Like TAG Heuer, Ronaldo surpasses the limits of his ďŹ eld and never cracks under pressure.

Issue two 75

Laugavegi 15 & Kringlunni - 511 1900 - www.michelsen.is

WOW design

Anatomy of letters In addition to its use as a word for the physical structure of humans and animals; their bones, flesh and organs, anatomy is also the general term used in typography to explain in precise detail the structure of letters.

by Gerður Harðardóttir Photos: Vigfús Birgisson

Because of this, the graphic designer’s basic lingo includes an eye, an ear and a neck; the central stroke of the letter s is a spine, an arching stroke in the letters h, n and m, a shoulder, and the trailing outstroke in the letters j and y, a tail. Graphic designer Sigríður Rún Kristinsdóttir cleverly uses this mutuality between the human body and letters in her project Anatomy of Letters, where she gives the world of typography a fasci­­­ nating new composition and life.

Ancient letters revealed Anatomy of Letters started out as a graduation project in 2012 when Sig­­­ríður Rún graduated as a graphic de­­signer from the Iceland Academy of Arts. Inspired by a guest lecturer from Hungary and cheered on by an expert in ancient manuscripts at the Árni Magnússon Institute, the project is based on Sigríður’s extensive research into the Icelandic Each letter alphabet. In is assigned a a book, which specific bone certainly structure, a awakens personal history and unique the reader’s behavioral imagination, pattern.

Sigríður challenges the traditional use of letters found in the Icelandic alphabet. The book describes five ancient letters used in the Icelandic language up until 1900, plus two additional letters, ð (eth) and þ (th), now almost exclusively used in the Icelandic language. (The letter ð is also found in the language of the Faroe Islands.)

Each letter is assigned a specific bone structure, a personal history and unique behavioral pattern. The style and visual language of the book bring

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WOW Power to the people

associations of old academic textbooks on subjects such as natural science and archaeology. For her Anatomy of Letters project, Sigríður Rún ended up receiving the European Student of the Year Award at ADC*E in 2013.

The same year, an exhibition at Spark Design Space in Reykjavík saw Sigríður Rún taking her concept of the anatomy of the letters further when skeletal structures for each and every letter of the Icelandic alphabet were created.

Built on Sigríður Rún’s research and investigation of the human and animal anatomy, using mainly bone structures of prehistoric dinosaurs and birds as a reference for the forms, the hand­­­ writ­­ing, in this case, was based on one of the oldest preserved Icelandic manu­­scripts, Egil’s Saga, believed to be written around 1250.

Digging for bones In 2014, as part of the annual design festival DesignMarch, Sigríður Rún set up her workshop / exhibition “Relics”, in the Cultural House in Reykjavík. For the workshop, people were invited to come and dig for ancient bones of letters, cleverly hidden in boxes filled with sand, thereby turning the project into a collaboration between the designer and those attending the exhibition.

Attendees were allowed to arrange the bones as they wished, the art, design and letters they created, constrained by the limits of their imagination.

Today, the Anatomy of Letters project is available in a series of posters, sign­­ed by Sigríður Rún and printed on 120 g/m2 Munken Pure Rough paper.

The posters are available exclusively at Spark Design Space in downtown Reykjavík. v

www.sparkdesignspace.com

DID YOU KNOW THAT IN ICELAND... you don´t have to buy bottled water, but a bottle of wine is a lot cheaper at Duty Free Iceland www.dutyfree.is

Issue two 77

The Government House in Reykjavík

Iceland’s very first prison In the heart of Reykjavik stands a small, white palace-like building with two statues in front of it, one is of the Danish King Christian IX and the other of the Icelandic politician and poet Hannes Hafstein.

This is the Government House, designed by Georg David Anthon as the very first prison in Iceland.

by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

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WOW Power to the people

You’ll notice that there is something special about this house; the architecture looks Danish (well, if you know how typical Danish architecture is) and you’ll also notice that there is something grand about the building. Yes—the Government House in Reykjavík is perhaps like the dot over the proverbial “i” in downtown Reykjavík, in addition to the Parliament Building and Hallgrimskirkja Church.

Prison life Life, as we know, can be cruel. About 6,000 Icelanders died from 17511758 because of a severe famine. In 1750, extreme cold with pack ice around the fishing grounds started and the northeast coast stayed frozen the whole year. The nightmare continued and in 1755 the vol­­ cano Katla erupted, ejecting great quantities of ash and causing the desertion of ca. 50 farms in the southern regions. Icelanders were starving and as a direct consequence there was a huge increase in theft. Those who Iceland’s sovereignty were arrested were sent to Copenhagen was declared on the because Iceland did not have a prison steps of the Government system.

House on December 1, Obviously Icelander’s needed their own 1918. After that, Iceland prison and the Danish architect Georg was in a union with David Anthon is thought to be the one who Denmark until 1944, the got the honor to design Iceland’s very first year Iceland declared prison. A new prison building in Reykjavík independence. Hurray! was approved in 1759 and the convicts themselves began the work in 1761. Ten years later it was complete and was used as a prison until 1816. In 1820, the house became the official headquarters of the Governor of Iceland—both as his home and as his workplace.

During the years, the arrangement in the house was changed, walls were broken and others built. It is worth mentioning that Anthon the architect became Master-Builder to the Royal Court in 1760. His skill in this form of architecture may have influenced his design for the prison, so it may not be wrong to think about the Government House as a minipalace; a mini-palace made of dolerite.

Back to the Danes Iceland was a part of the Kingdom of Denmark from 1814 to 1918; In fact, Iceland’s sovereignty was declared on the steps of the Government House on December 1, 1918. After that, Iceland was in a union with Denmark until 1944, the year Iceland declared independence. Hurray!

The foreign minister of Iceland had an office in the house in the 1940s, and for many years after that, the offices of both the president and the prime minister of Iceland were there.

For the last 20 years, only the offices of the prime minister have been in this former prison and when it was decided that the president of Iceland’s office should move, the house was renovated. Only the hall is truly original but the appearance inside the house between 1873-1917 was kept in mind, so if you had the chance to peek inside you could imagine that you’re back in the 1800’s ... But that is of course another story.

Hello, from the outside Unfortunately enjoying the building from the outside is all we’re allowed to do, but let’s do that then. There is some­­thing grand about the house. If the walls could talk—well, they could tell you stor­­ies of prisoners, prime ministers and presidents. v

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tEL: +354 464 3 999 - email: info @ salkawhalewatching.is

Issue two 79

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WOW Power to the people

WOW air power

Sheltered by the storm Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

Wanting to make people better aware of the pow­ers of the air that surround us, the entre­­­pre­­neurs at IceWind crowdfunded a community project, and with the additional help of WOW air and Reykjavik City put up two custom-made wind turbines on top of a bus stop by Harpa Concert Hall. In WOW maga­­­zine’s February issue, we told you about the entre­­­preneurs at IceWind, who have developed a hardy but elegant and affordable Savonius wind turbine for cabins and telecommunications towers. Their wind tur­­ bines have now been put to good use for the public at the Harpa Concert Hall bus stop and serve to remind us that there is green power to be harnessed all around us.

The unique Storm Shelter The bus stop, now called the “Storm Shelter” was officially opened in mid-March and is entirely self-sufficient. The electricity generated by the two wind turbines supplies energy for lighting, wi-fi, The bus stop, now smartphone chargers and a big TVcalled the “Storm screen. When the turbines produce Shelter” was officially more energy than is needed to keep opened in midall the electronics going and have March and is entirely filled up the batteries located in the self-sufficient. The Storm Shelter, the excess power electricity generated goes into heating the bus stop. “The by the two wind Storm Shelter is entirely unique,” turbines supplies energy for lighting, the entrepreneurs at IceWind state. wi-fi, smartphone “Never before has a bus stop been chargers and a big made entirely self-sustainable by TV-screen. placing two wind turbines on top of it. The turbines are powerful enough to collect excess energy and store it in custom-made batteries which will keep the Storm Shelter going for 48 hours even if there’s no wind.”

Power in the air The wind turbines on top of the Storm Shelter are the smallest IceWind has made and were custom-made for this particular project. “Our regular wind turbines might not be big, but we decided to make them even smaller to fit on top of the bus stop. The most important part of this project is to get people to think about all the energy that surrounds us. There

is a great quantity of the wind that we’re not utilizing that individuals can harness on their own. That’s what our wind turbines were originally built for; personal use for summer cottages and farms that don’t have geothermal heating,” says Thor E. Bachman, chief business development officer at IceWind.

Eliminating the carbon footprint Up until now bus stops in Reykjavik have only gotten electricity from street lamps which means they shut down during the day when the lights are turned off. “By using wind turbines, you can provide energy for the bus stops 24/7 and having all this electricity on hand, make paper advertisement obsolete.

Today the company that runs the Reykjavik bus stops has a team driving around the city switching the paper advertisements. That’s a lot of time and effort plus a huge carbon footprint. They see a great opportunity in utilizing this endless source of green energy that eliminates the use of gasoline and paper and costs much less. The advertisements on the TV screen can be steered remotely from a control center through the internet which will be available at each bus stop.”

When you’ve taken in the magnificent Harpa Concert Hall, consider the luxury of taking the bus to your next destination, charge your smartphone while you wait, go online and enjoy the 100% green energy all around you. v

From the left: Gunnar, Thor and Saethor, entrepreneurs at IceWind, shake hands with Engilbert Haf­steins­son, head of sales and marketing at WOW air, after the formal opening of the Storm Shelter.

Issue two 81

Take a hike

Djúpalón and Dritvík in Snæfellsjökull National Park Djúpalón and Dritvík are both breathtakingly gorgeous, where the black lava meets the sea and creates troll-like rock formations and where you can also see dark sand and pebble beaches.

The Snæfellsnes Peninsula has always been considered a mystical place and many people have mentioned supernatural energy emanating from the Snæfellsnes Glacier.

by Einar Skúlason Photos: Einar Skúlason and iStockphoto.com

A famous local; Þórður from Dag­­ verð­ará, once said that the society around Snæfellsjökull Glacier was so incredible that the locals needn’t make stuff up, the truth was always far more unbelievable. Þórður himself contributed to this characterization. Self-described as an artist of life, he brightened the life of others with his unbelievable stories, poetry, painting and fox hunting skills.

If you have the chance, you should rent a car and drive to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and hike at Djúpalón and Dritvík. To reach there you need to drive on Route 574 and turn off onto Dritvík Road, Route 572, until you reach parking lot at the end of the road.

Haunting views The surroundings at Djúpalón and Dritvík are incredibly powerful and leave no-one untouched. You should take your time on this walk; the view will stay with you for a long time. This is an easy walk and suits most people, but the trails can be slippery when wet and icy in winter. Also take care and don’t venture too close to the sea in Djúpalónssandur or Dritvík.

Photo: iStockphoto / alexeys

A single rock, called Kerlingin (the Crone), stands at the water’s edge. It is said to be a troll that didn’t reach her cave before the sun came up. You can see that she was carrying fish on her back when the sun’s rays caught up with her.

The National Park of Snæfellsjökull Glac­ i­­­­­er is a beautiful place where lava fields from Snæfellsjökull meet with the ocean to create dark-creature-like for­­­­­mations, narrow coves and edgy rocks con­­­­stantly pound­­ed by the tireless waves of the Atlantic Ocean.

Tall tales Walk down Nautastígur (Bulls Path) where bulls were lead to drink from the lagoons of Djúpalón. It was once believed that the lagoons of Djúpalón were bottomless and that if you dove deep enough you would end up in the sea. In reality, the lagoons are 5 meters deep. Beneath Gatklettur (Hole in the Rock), there are big stones that were used to measure the strength of men who wanted to become sailors. A tale tells of a group of sailors here who decided

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to try and improve their luck at fishing by using their dead maid for bait. They caught a lot of fish but in the end, their old maid got her revenge when they and their boat disappeared into the ocean.

Walking app The route Djúpalón – Dritvík can be found in the Wapp – a walking app on Appstore and Playstore. The route carries much more information and stories about the area.

The old fishing camps Dritvík was one of the largest fishing camps in Iceland for more than 300 years with up to 600 sailors stationed there at the same time. Ruins of old sea camps can be found all over the lava around Dritvík.

On the beach, you can see rusty iron scatt­ered around. Those rusty metal parts are the remains of the British trawler Epine that stranded in March 1948 and ended up on the beaches of Djúpa­­lóns­­ sandur far away from its home port of Grimsby. There were 19 men in the crew, but only five were rescued.

On the way to Dritvík, there is an old labyrinth. Try finding your way out of it blind­­folded like the sailors did in the old days. v

Vodafone 4G

Choose Vodafone Iceland With Vodafone, you gain access to an extensive 4G network in Iceland with excellent 3G/4G roaming connectivity, no matter whether you’re on sea or land. Share your memories by using Vodafone’s prepaid mobile starter kit with voice and data.

Vodafone Power to you

PHOTO Buy your prepaid SIM card at BSI bus terminal, Vodafone stores, N1 gas stations all around Iceland, and at our network of resellers.

Issue two 83

Photo: iStockphoto.com / Francesco Ricca Iacomino

Near the Arctic Circle

Face of the North Iceland has many faces. For those who want to explore the unique features and hidden gems of North Iceland, there is no better base than Akureyri, a town of 18,500 people, offering all the services and pleasures one could wish for. When locals are asked what kind of town it is, they tend to mention the lively cultural scene, good educational system and a friendly easygoing atmosphere.

by Ragnar Hólm Ragnarsson Photos: iStockphotos.com and courtesy of visitakureyri.is

In Akureyri, there are many ambitious professional companies specializing in all kinds of tours for adventurous guests who want to experience something new and exciting. Whether it’s skiing, horseback riding, bathing in geothermal nature pools, seeing Europe’s most powerful waterfall, fly fishing, hiking or just exploring nature in general, they have it and offer both short and long trips.

Interesting places nearby In less than 70 km radius from Akureyri, you will find many interesting places and some of North Iceland’s most precious natural wonders.

If you drive to the east, you can reach Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe in less than two hours. The famous Lake Mývatn is only an hour away, and it only takes about a two hours’ drive to reach Ásbyrgi National Park. To the west, you have the “horse country” Skagafjörður, with river rafting and the old farm Glaumbær, and close by is the unique swimming pool of Hofsós.

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In less than 70 km radius from Akureyri, you will find many interesting places and some of North Iceland’s most precious natural wonders.

Hrísey and Grímsey The islands Hrísey and Grímsey (“ey” meaning island) are now a part of the municipality of Akureyri. There are small fishing villages on both islands with only about 80 people living in Grímsey and about 170 in Hrísey. If you’re looking for some peace and quiet these two islands are a good bet.

Hrísey is best known for its beautiful nature, magnificent view of the mainland, many pleasant walking trails and diverse birdlife.

Birds have no natural predators on the island and it is particularly famous for bird watching. Nowhere in Iceland can you get so close to the beautiful ptarmigan and you can also spot flocks of the small but brave and aggressive Arctic tern. There are regular ferry trips which take only 15 minutes from Ársskógssandur Harbor (25 minutes’ drive from Akureyri) to get to Hrísey The ferry schedule can be found on visitakureyri.is/en/transport. Grímsey, known for being the northernmost settlement in Iceland has the Arctic

Circle running straight through it! Here you’ll find one of the biggest puffin colonies in Iceland and many other species of birds. On a clear day, there are spectacular views from the island over to the Icelandic mainland, and the island offers many walking and hiking paths but tread carefully and don’t go too near the edge of the cliffs as the puffin’s nest burrowing has made the ground loose.

Note that the puffins stay out on the open sea during winter but come to their nests after mid-April. They fly back to sea after the first

Note that the puffins stay out on the open sea during winter but come to their nests after mid-April.

week of August, making anytime in May, June and July a good time to see them. How to get there? Norlandair offers scheduled flights to Grímsey all year round, and there’s also the Ferry Sæfari. See visitakureyri.is/en/transport for more information.

Using Akureyri as a base for exploring the wonders of North Iceland is a great idea and the picturesque capital of the north might be just what you’re looking for. Now pick out what you want to explore and book your stay in Akureyri. v

Akureyri

Interesting Place & Activities Nearby within 2 hrs drive

Siglufjörður The Herring Era Museum National Park: Ásbyrgi

Hrísey island Húsavík Snow Cat Trips Fishing Village Hofsós The Icelandic Emigration Center

Boat Excursions

Horse Rental National Park: Dettifoss

The old Rectory at Laufás

Goðafoss Water fall

Akureyri

The Krafla Area and Víti Crater LAKE MÝVAtn

Nature Baths

Varmahlíð River rafting Find more information and licensed travel agencies in North Iceland at visitakureyri.is.

Issue two 85

The Vatnajökull region

Land of Ice and Fire In the Region of Vatnajökull you find the real reason why Iceland got its name. The area is dominated by Vatnajökull Glacier which is the largest glacier in the world outside the Arctic regions. In this region you also find some of Iceland’s most popular tourist attractions such as the spectacular Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, Skaftafell, the jewel in Vatnajökull National Park and Mt. Hvannadalshnúkur, the highest peak in Iceland and a popular hike.

Photo: Þorvarður Árnason

The Vatnajökull Region is filled with con­­­ trasts with its black beaches, white glaci­­­ers, red hot volcanoes, green birch forest and blue Atlantic Ocean. Serenity, energy and the for­­ces of nature combine to make a visit to the Region of Vatnajökull a never-to-be-forgotten experience.

Wildlife is rich in the Region of Vatnajökull with thousands of migrating birds such as puffins and the Arctic tern passing through, especially in the spring and summer. Herds of reindeer are also a common sight, and if you’re lucky you’ll spot a seal at Jökulsárlón or an Arctic fox running through the land. You will also find dozens of companies that offer all sorts of activities year round, diverse accommodation and great rest­­au­­ rants with local food.

Photographers paradise The Region of Vatnajökull in Southeast Iceland spans over 200 km of the Ring Road from Lómagnúpur in the west to Hvalnes Peninsula in the east. It covers the accessible southern side of Vatnajökull Glacier, an area particularly delightful to photography enthusiasts with its countless magnificent views of the glaciers and mountains both in daylight as well as when dusk settles and the Aurora Borealis light up the sky.

And the region has a wide range of experienced guides and photographers who can take you to the picture perfect spots.

Have you ever imagined looking inside a glaci­er? Wintertime offers this unique oppor­­ tunity. A trip into the ice caves of Vatna­­jökull’s southern crawling glacier reveals a wondrous world of colors and refracted light, providing a thrill for any photo enthusiast. Local guides who know every crevice of the glacier seek out caves formed during the winter months and offer tours.

Travelers should only go on such trips under their guidance.

Höfn—culture and cuisine!

The only town in the area, Höfn is a lively fishing town with a population of 1,800. Höfn is additionally known as Iceland’s one and only lobster capital with its complement of lovely restaurants offering this precious product as well as various other local specialties year

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round. Höfn is also a great base for exploring the magnificent Vatnajökull National Park, and be sure to drop by the park’s visitor center in the beautiful historical building, Gamlabúð, by the harbor.

Activity, accommodation and restaurants Much of the activity in the Region of Vatnajökull revolves around the glacier and the nature around it. You can choose between glacier walks and ice climbing, a thrilling snowmobile ride on Vatnajökull or a comfortable Have you ever imagi­ tour of this mighty ned looking inside a glacier in a super glacier? Wintertime jeep. The area also offers this unique offers ATV tours and opportunity. A trip geothermal baths into the ice caves of at Hoffell, reindeer Vatnajökull’s southern excursions, a visit to crawling glacier.” the Thorbergssetur cultural museum, a local mineral stone collection, the local handicraft store, the petting zoo at Hólmur and much more.

There are various possibilities in accommodations and you’ll be sure to find a warm welcome by knowledgeable hosts. Several restaurants are in the area and most of them offer dishes made with local ingredients. Be sure to ask for the local beer Vatnajökull, brewed from icebergs from Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and the locally sourced Arctic thyme.

Accessible year round The Vatnajökull Region is well accessible all year due to good weather conditions and frequent transportation. Eagle Air has a daily flight from Reykjavík to Höfn Airport during the summertime and five days a week during other seasons.

Buses between Reykjavík and Höfn (Strætó) are scheduled daily throughout the year. There are also three car rental companies in Höfn. v

For more information check out www.visitvatnajokull.is.

Issue two 87

rm

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom

This Space For Official Use Only

U.S. Cu

Customs Declaration

FORM APPROVED OMB NO.1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110, 148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

What is this and why do I need to fill this out?

Before you arrive in the U.S., you will need to fill out the US Customs Declaration Form. If you‘re traveling with your family only the head of the family needs to fill out the form. When you arrive on US soil you will hand this form to the U.S. Customs agent.

If you’re traveling with fruits we recommend disposing of them before or during your flight to the U.S. but what happens if you answer yes to any of the questions? It’s not as terrible as you might think and being truthful will save you a lot of trouble and a fine of up to $300.

See page 90 for more information on answering YES.

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required).

The term "family" is defined as "members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption."

1 Family Name First (Given) 2 Birth date

MAGNUSSON HAKON Month 0 2

VALUR Year 8 0 2

Middle Day

1 7

3 Number of Family members traveling with you 4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination)

BOSTON HARBOR HOTEL 70 ROWES WHARF (c) State MA BOSTON Passport issued by (country) ICELAND Passport number A0182382 Country of Residence ICELAND FRANCE ~ SPAIN Countries visited on this (b) City

5 6 7 8

trip prior to U.S. arrival

9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name

Français Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Qu’est-ce que c’est et pourquoi dois-je en remplir un ?

FR: Avant votre arrivée aux États-Unis, vous devrez remplir le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine. Si vous voyagez avec votre famille, seul le chef de famille doit le remplir. Lorsque vous arrivez sur le sol américain, vous donnez ce formulaire aux autorités douanières américaines.

Si vous voyagez avec des fruits, nous vous recommandons de les jeter avant ou pendant votre vol vers les États-Unis mais que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « oui » à l’une de ces questions ? Ce n’est pas aussi terrible que ça en a l’air et dire la vérité vous évitera pas mal d’ennuis et une amende pouvant aller jusqu’à 300 $. Consultez la page 90 pour obtenir plus d’informations si vous répondez « OUI ».

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WOW Power to the people

WW-125

10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

Pour remplir ce formulaire, utilisez uniquement des majuscules. Si vous faites une erreur, notre personnel vous donnera un nouveau formulaire.

Chaque voyageur entrant ou chef de famille entrant doit fournir les informations suivantes (UNE SEULE déclaration par famille) 1. Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom.

No

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects:

Yes

No

(b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products:

Yes

No

(c) disease agents, cell cultures, snails:

Yes

No

(d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture:

Yes

No

12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock: Yes

No

x x x x x

Yes

No

x

Yes

No

x

(such as touching or handling) 13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent: (see definition of monetary instruments on reverse) 14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise:

4.

(a) Adresse Aux États-Unis (Destination ou nom de l‘hôtel) (b) Ville (c) Etat

5. Lieu de délivrace du passeport (nom du pays) 6. Numéro de passeport 7. Pays de résidence

The tra the amo States of both) Custom Moneta bearer bonds. instrum file the carrying instrum prosecu YOU H MADE A

Descrip

(List may

(articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders,

2. Date de naissance Jour/Mois/Année.

3. Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous.

x

Yes

11 I am (We are) bringing

U.S. Cu United officers persona examin dignified Repres are ava Importa U.S. Re are Visitors rem Declare do Duty— en the of ab Agricul ag Fr bir de Cu W su Contro genera

or goods that are not considered personal effects)

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else but not items mailed to $ the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is: VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is:

$

0 0

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare.

I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

X

Hákon Valur Magnússon

Signature

01/26/2016

Date (month/day/year)

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

PAPERW sponsor informati number this app commen Border P Washing

8. Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l‘arrivée aux aux Etats-Unis 9. Ligne aérienne / numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau 10. Vous vouages our raison d‘affaires: OUI/NON 11. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de (a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes: OUI/NON (b) viandes, animoux, produits provenant d‘animaux ou d‘animoux sauvages: OUI/NON (c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots: OUI/NON (d) terre. J‘ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis: OUI/NON 12. J‘ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail: OUI/NON 13. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d‘espèces ou d‘instruments monétaires d‘une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d‘instruments monétaire au verso) á plus de 10 000$ US: OUI/NON 14. Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstration ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels): OUI/NON 15. Résidents - la valeur totale des biens, y compris la marchandise commerciale, que j’ai/nous avons achetés ou acquis à l’étranger (y compris les cadeaux pour une autre personne, mais pas les articles envoyés aux États-Unis) et que je/ nous rapportons aux États-Unis est de : montant en USD Visiteurs - La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis, y compris la marchandise commerciale est de : USD Signez sur la ligne pour déclarer que votre déclaration est véridique.

Deutsch Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Was ist das und warum muss ich dieses Formular ausfüllen?

GER: Vor der Ankunft in den USA müssen Sie das Formular der US-Zollerklärung ausfüllen. Wenn Sie mit Ihrer Familie unterwegs sind, braucht nur das Familienoberhaupt dieses Formular ausfüllen.

Wenn Sie US-Boden betreten, übergeben Sie dieses Formular dem US-Zoll.

Wenn Sie auf Ihrer Reise Obst mit sich führen, empfehlen wir Ihnen, dies vor oder während dem Flug in die USA zu entsorgen. Aber was geschieht, wenn Sie eine dieser Fragen mit Ja beantworten? Das ist nicht so schrecklich, wie Sie vielleicht denken, und Ehrlichkeit spart Ihnen eine Menge Ärger und eine mögliche Geldstrafe von bis zu 300$. Siehe Seite 90 für weitere Informationen zur Antwort JA.

Bitte verwenden Sie beim Ausfüllen dieses Formulars nur Großbuchstaben. Falls Sie einen Fehler machen wird Ihnen unsere Crew ein neues Formular geben.

Jeder ankommende Reisende bzw. jedes verantwortliche Familienmitglied muss die folgenden Angaben machen (es ist pro Familie nur EINE schriftliche Erklärung erforderlich) 1. Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname 2. Geburtsdatum / Tag/Monat/Jahr 3. Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder 4.

(a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels/Reiseziel) (b) Stadt (c) Staat

11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten: JA/NEIN (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte: JA/NEIN (c) Krakheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken: JA/NEIN (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/einer Ranch/Weide: JA/NEIN 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit): JA/NEIN 13. Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit (Siehe die Definition von Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN 14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN 15. US-Bürger - der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschließlich Handelswaren die ich/wir erworben habe(n) oder im Ausland erworben habe(n) (einschließlich Geschenke für andere, nicht aber Sendungen in die USA) und in die USA einführe(n) lautet: Betrag in US-$ Besucher - der Gesamtwert aller Artikel einschließlich Handelswaren, die in den USA verbleiben ist: $ Auf der Linie unterschreiben, um zu erklären, dass Sie eine wahrheitsgemäße Erklärung abgeben.

5. Pass ausgestellt von (Land) 6. Passnummer 7. Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land) 8. Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA 9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes 10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich: JA/NEIN Issue two 89

rm

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom

What happens if you say “YES”?

Sometimes we just want to avoid trouble and think that saying NO to everything will make things easier. That’s not the case and in fact, it can even cause more problems, delays and even fines. Be truthful on your Customs Declaration form and all will be good. Worst case scenario they’ll confiscate your banana but we promise you can buy a new one once you’re out of the airport.

Yes to 11 (a), (b) or (c) Your customs officer will refer you to an agricultural specialist who will ask you additional questions and might ask to inspect your food items. In many cases, you’ll be allowed to take your food with you. This often depends on where you got the food and how it’s been processed. Fruits, vegetables and raw meats are usually confiscated. You can research ahead of time at canibringit.com which is a U.S. Government run site.

Yes to 11 (d) and/or no. 12: An agricultural specialist will ask to inspect the soil or clothes, shoes or luggage that has been in contact with livestock or farm soil to determine if they contain any dangerous organisms. If they find potentially dangerous substances they will disinfect your items before allowing you to bring them in. For bringing soil into the US, you need a permit.

Yes to no. 13 or 14: If you are carrying currency worth over $10,000 you will simply be given a special form to fill out for the Treasury Department.

For items intended for sale, you should have already filed a “formal entry” before embarking on your journey. You could do so “on the spot” but these matters are subject to many rules and regulations and can be complicated.

Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « OUI » ?

Certaines personnes semblent penser que répondre « non » à toutes les réponses leur évitera des ennuis. Ce n’est pas le cas et en fait, cela peut même vous causer plus de problèmes, des retards et des amendes. Dites la vérité sur votre formulaire de déclaration en douane et tout ira bien. Dans le pire des cas, ils confisqueront votre banane mais promis, vous pourrez en acheter une nouvelle à votre arrivée à l’aéroport.

Oui aux questions 11 (a), (b) ou (c) Votre agent douanier vous dirigera vers un spécialiste agricole qui vous posera des questions supplémentaires et qui pourra inspecter vos fruits. Dans de nombreux cas, vous sera autorisé à garder votre nourriture. Cela dépend souvent de la provenance la nourriture et de la façon dont elle a été transformée. Les fruits, les légumes et la viande crue sont généralement confisqués. Vous pouvez faire

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des recherches avant de partir sur le site canibright. com qui est un site du gouvernement américain.

Oui aux questions 11 (d) et/ou 12 : Un spécialiste agricole inspectera la terre ou les vêtements, les chaussures ou les bagages qui ont été en contact avec du bétail ou le sol d’une ferme pour déterminer la présence d’organismes dangereux.

S’il trouve des substances potentiellement dangereuses, il désinfectera vos objets avant de vous laisser les garder. Pour importer de la terre aux États-Unis, il vous faut un permis.

Oui aux questions 13 ou 14 : Si vous transportez des devises d’une valeur supérieure à 10 000 $, vous devrez simplement remplir un formulaire spécial pour le ministère des finances.

Pour les objets destinés à être vendus, vous devriez déjà avoir rempli un « formulaire d’entrée officielle » avant de prendre votre vol. Vous pouvez faire cela sur place mais ce genre de chose est soumis à de nombreuses règles et règlementations et peut être compliqué.

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Was passiert, wenn Sie JA sagen?

Einige Leute nehmen an, dass sie keinerlei Ärger bekommen, wenn sie überall NEIN sagen. Das ist nicht so. Tatsächlich kann dies sogar mehr Probleme, Verzögerungen und sogar Geldbußen verursachen. Seien Sie bei Ihrer Zollerklärung ehrlich, und alles wird gut. Im schlimmsten Fall konfisziert man Ihre Banane, aber wir versprechen Ihnen, dass Sie sich eine neue kaufen können, sobald Sie den Flughafen verlassen haben.

Ja zu 11 (a), (b) oder (c) Ihr Zollbeamter wird Sie an einen Spezialisten für landwirtschaftliche Produkte weiterverweisen, der Ihnen zusätzliche Fragen stellen wird und evtl. darum bittet, Ihre Lebensmittel inspizieren zu dürfen. In vielen Fällen wird man Ihnen erlauben, Ihr Essen mitzunehmen. Oft hängt es davon ab, wo Sie die Lebensmittel erworben haben und wie sie verarbeitet wurden. Obst, Gemüse und rohes Fleisch werden in der Regel beschlagnahmt. Sie können vor Abflug auf der Website der US-Regierung canibringit.com nachlesen, was erlaubt ist.

Ja bei 11 (d) und/oder Nr. 12: Ein Spezialist für landwirtschaftliche Produkte wird Sie darum bitten, die Erde oder die Kleidung, Schuhe oder das Gepäck inspizieren zu dürfen, welche(s) in Kontakt mit Tieren oder landwirtschaftlichem Boden war, um zu bestimmen, ob diese gefährliche Organismen enthalten. Wenn er potenziell gefährliche Stoffe findet, werden Ihre Gegenstände desinfiziert, bevor Sie die Erlaubnis erhalten, diese einzuführen. Für das Einführen von Erde in die USA benötigen Sie eine Genehmigung.

Ja bei Nr. 13 oder 14: Wenn Sie Bargeld im Wert von mehr als $10.000 mit sich führen, erhalten Sie einfach ein besonderes Formular, das Sie für das US Finanzministerium ausfüllen müssen.

Für Gegenstände, die für den Verkauf vorgesehen sind, sollten Sie bereits vor Ihrer Abreise eine „formelle Einfuhrgenehmigung“ einholen. Sie tun könnten dies auch „vor Ort“ erledigen, aber diese Vorgänge unterliegen vielen Regeln und können sehr kompliziert sein. v

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Montreal Toronto Boston San Francisco Los Angeles

CO N N EC T I N G T H E CO N T I N E N T S

WOW I S IN THE AIR! 92

WOW Power to the people

Washington, D.C.

Reykjavik

Stockholm Copenhagen Edinburgh Vilnius Dublin

Berlin Warsaw Amsterdam D端sseldorf Paris Frankfurt Salzburg Milan Lyon

London

Bristol

Barcelona Alicante

Nice Rome

Tenerife Gran Canaria

wowair.com

Issue two 93

Montréal

Biosphere – Environment Museum Some World’s Fair buildings have continued to function long after the rest of the fair has become a distant memory. Among the best known are the Eiffel Tower of the Exposition Universelle of 1889 in Paris, the Atomium from Expo 58 in Brussels, The Space Needle observation tower from the 1962 World’s Fair in Seattle, Washington and the iconic U.S.A. pavilion at Expo 67 in Montreal at Parc Jean-Drapeau on Saint Helen’s Island.

by Judy Colbert Photos: iStockphoto.com

The eye-catching geodesic dome was designed by architect Richard Buckminster “Bucky” Fuller (1895-1983), and was an enclosed steel dome with 1900 acrylic panels – 76 meters (250 ft) wide and 62 meters (200 ft) high. It is technically called a Class 1, Frequency 16 Icosahedron. You may have seen the dome in the original Battlestar Galactica TV series in 1978 and Robert Altman’s movie Quintet. It was also in the animated Jacob-Two Two TV series (the building was used by a bunch of senior citi­ zens who were going to knit a large tea cozy to cover the city of Montreal).

The big bubble The building originally had a transparent acrylic bubble and a complex system of shad­ es used to control the temperature inside the dome. The dome gave the im­­press­­ion (and still does) that the filigree creation is weightless, ready to take off at any moment, similar to a soap bubble sailing into the blue sky. Exhibits were set up on seven levels, and a monorail ran through the pavilion. Nine million people toured the dome during the fair’s six-month lifespan that had the theme “Man and His World.”

A 1976 fire destroyed the acrylic bubble, but the structure remained. After sitting unused for almost 15 years, Environment Canada bought the building and the site in the fall of 1990. By 1995, they had turned it into an interactive water museum that lets you explore the Great Lakes and the Saint Lawrence River ecosystems. Now, nearly 50 years since the building made its spectacular debut, there’s still a thrill when it comes into view. It’s a feeling of science fiction that’s really fact.

Environment Museum The Biosphère Environment Museum—the only environment museum in North Amer­ ica—presents displays about environmental issues regarding meteorology, clim­­ate change, water, air, eco-technologies and sustainable development.

Among the entertaining and educational permanent and temporary displays you might see, is an impressive exhibit, “Design the Future,” and giant outdoor photographs of the Arctic to help introduce what scientists know now and what we still need to know for our future. Other exhibits are “+1 Degree Celsius: What Difference Does it Make?” and “Spaceship Earth” an exhibit demonstrating Bucky Fuller’s vision for sustainable development.

Perhaps the most exciting part is a big model of the 1,900 miles (3,058 kilometers) of the St. Lawrence River that connects the Great Lakes (the world’s largest freshwater lake system) with the Atlantic Ocean. This study of limnology, including shipping, tour­­ism, water supply, and hydroelectric power, shows the effects they have on the wat­ er­way and our lives. Games and interactive displays are an integral part of the fun and learn­ing and are geared for all ages.

Make sure you learn about the environment when you’re in Montreal. WOW air’s young fleet of Airbus aircraft is one of the most environmentally efficient you can get on commercial flights. Add more WOW to your trip! On your way to or from Canada you can have a WOW Stopover in Iceland and see even more amazing natural wonders.

Starting in May 2016 WOW air will fly four-five times a week from Europe to Montréal, Canada all year round. Find available connections to Montréal or Toronto from most of WOW air’s European destinations at wowair.com.

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Photo: iStockphoto / Vladone

How to get in?

The museum is wheelchair user accessible and open daily between June 1 and early September from 10 am to 5 pm. From mid-January through the end of May, the muse­­ um is open Thursday through Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm (last admission is 4:15); it’s closed on legal holidays. Admission is charged for everyone 18 and older. A discount is available for visitors with a Montréal Museums Pass, Accès Montréal card or Cultural Access Pass. The Biosphère is accessible by metro (Jean-Drapeau station). Find out more at www.biosphere.ec.gc.ca. v

The building originally had a transparent acrylic bubble and a complex system of shad­es used to control the temperature inside the dome. The dome gave the im­­press­­ion (and still does) that the filigree creation is weightless, ready to take off at any moment, similar to a soap bubble sailing into the blue sky.

Issue two 95

Oh! Canada

Oh! Canada

Shop and eat Toronto-style What do you do when you’re visiting a foreign city? Well, if you’re anything like us you’d like to do some shopping and eating somewhere in between taking in all the sights. For our guests who are heading to Toronto we got Cindy-Lou Dale to put together a few tips for you.

by Cindy-Lou Dale Photos: Canada Tourism Commission

Shop Toronto You don’t need to pick up a fashion maga­­zine to get a sneak preview of the season’s new trends, just walk down Queen Street West, where you’ll find every­­thing hip, trendy and cool.

Young, vibrant and bohemian, this neighborhood is often compared to the SoHo district of New York or London, a hangout for many artists and musicians, with its many music stores, cafes and clubs. A few of the older bars, such as the Cameron, the Horseshoe Tavern, Rivoli and the Bovine Sex Club, have become hot spots in the area.

Hazelton Lanes Shopping Centre (87 Avenue Rd) is a premiere shopping center with more than 65 stores and services. Located in the heart of beautiful Yorkville in downtown Toronto, Hazelton Lanes features premium fashion and lifestyle brands, making it a vibrant shopping destination. Mix and mingle in its Oval Square—a gathering space for the community with comfy seating and free Wi-Fi.

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Located in the heart of beautiful Yorkville in down­ town Toronto, Hazelton Lanes features premium fashion and lifestyle brands, making it a vibrant shopping destination.

Let’s go vintage Toronto’s fashion credentials are edgy and inventive however it’s the vintage scene that shines through as unique. The biggest concentrations of vintage shops are in Kensington Market and Parkdale.

Both are great neighborhoods to wander and discover your next new find. Aside from being affordable retail therapy, vintage shopping in Toronto is sure to refresh your wardrobe with a previously loved outfit that will make you feel like a million bucks—even if you only spent $10. Shop like a local at these five of the city’s best vintage finds.

Courage My Love, 14 Kensington Ave – A bohemian fashionista’s boutique where they stock exotic costume jewelry, repurposed dresses and eccentric retro barware.

Thrill of the Find, 1172 Queen St East – This shop specializes in European labels such as Prada, Gucci and Chanel. It won’t take you long to find your thrill in this well laid out establishment.

Cabaret Vintage, 672 Queen St West – For the offbeat bride-to-be with a high-end selection of vintage wedding dresses to fit styles from bohemian to full-on-flapper. This decadent little boutique is also equipped to outfit the groom with a jacket, blazer, tie and cufflinks.

I Miss You Vintage, 63 Ossington Ave – One of Toronto’s more upscale vintage stores and houses an elegant selection of cocktail dresses and women’s clothing from the 60s and 70s.

Stella Luna, 1627 Queen St West—A tiny hole-in-the-wall boutique in a space no bigger than a walk-in closet. Vintage brands like D&G, Allan Cherry and Holt Renfrew.

Eat Toronto Street food has arrived in Toronto in a big way. Loosely connected to the Food Truck movement but distinct in its own right, street food in Toronto has expanded beyond Indian and Pakistani eats to include a wide range of cultural influences and cuisines. Most notable are Avo (Portuguese street eats) and Kim’s a La Cart (Korean), both are part of the expanding vendor line-up at 214 Augusta. There’s also Hawker Bar on Ossington, the just-opened restaurant that sells Singaporean street food and TUM (Toronto Underground Market) vendors including ESE that cooks up LA style Mexican Food.

Keep it conventional and sink your teeth into these five foodie finds: Odd Seoul, Ossington Avenue – Here you’ll find dozens of late-night bars vying to get you inside, but Odd Seoul is the one with soul. Run by two Korean brothers who grew up in Philadelphia, the drinks range from awesome cocktails to cheap beer while the menu offers amazing, shareable Korean and Philly-inspired dishes like spicy Korean chicken wings or acorn squash poutine.

Whatever you plan on doing for the day, be sure to end it with a kick-in-the-pants cocktail at Melody’s Bar, Gladstone Hotel, Queen St West.

416 Snack Bar, 181 Bathurst St – If you’re looking for one of the best late night experiences in the city, head to the unpretentious 416 Snack Bar. Enjoy cheap drinks and way-better-thanaverage snacks like perogies, Yorkshire pudding or Trini doubles – snacks that totally hit the spot when you’ve had a few too many drinks.

Bar Isabel, 797 College St – Have some of the best cocktails in the city (try the “old flame!”) and casual Mediterraneaninspired sharable food.

why people love it. You’ll be greeted by a lovely lady selling dim sum snacks to compliment the Pabst Blue Ribbon, cheap drinks and delicious cocktails at the bar. On a nice day, there’s a backyard patio with two long rows of picnic tables and red-checkered tablecloths.

Whatever you plan on doing for the day, be sure to end it with a kick-in-the-pants cocktail at Melody’s Bar, Gladstone Hotel, Queen St West. It’s named as one of the top ten bars in the world by Condé Nast Traveller. Introduce yourself to their cocktail Diva, Sandy, and have her knock together a Full Metal Jacket for you. v

Cold Tea, 66 Kensington Ave – Although the entrance and hallway of Kensington Mall may seem a little seedy at first, once you’ve entered Cold Tea, you’ll see

Just remember that drinking and shopping don’t always mix. Take the opportunity to have a WOW Stopover in Iceland on your way to Canada or back; it’s like getting two vacations for the price of one—plus, you can shop, drink and eat in Iceland too!

Starting in May 2016 WOW air will fly four to five times a week from Europe to Toronto, Canada all year round.

Find available connections to Toronto or Montréal from most WOW air destinations in Europe at wowair.com.

“Great first meal in Reykjavik” “Amazing food, excellent staff” “Best restaurant in Iceland”

Scandinavian cuisine Hönnun: Marknet ehf.

Enjoy a four course Icelandic set menu in one of Reykjaviks oldest buildings

Lækjarbrekka restaurant - Bankastraeti 2, 101 Reykjavik - Tel: (+354) 551 4430 - www.laekjarbrekka.is - info@laekjarbrekka.is Issue two 97

Bristol and Bath

The gems of South West England Regarded as the capital of South West England, Bristol is lively and laid-back, blending its rich mari­time heritage with an innovative, dynamic culture while Bath, the only entire city in the UK to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a city of iconic architecture and naturally heated thermal springs, that continues to seduce visitors time and time again. Together these two cities offer the best of both worlds, combining ancient history and contemporary cool.

Photos: Courtesy of Destination Bristol and Visit Bath – the Tourist Board for Bath and surrounding countryside

routes with stunning country trails, a network of city bike lanes and organized tours. Beautiful countryside surrounds the city on all sides, making Bristol a good base for long rambles in nearby South Gloucestershire, South Cotswolds and coastal North Somerset.

When flying to Bristol with WOW air, you’re not just getting one great city you are getting two and the beautiful English countryside to boot.

Explore Bristol Bristol is one of the most cosmopolitan and unorthodox cities outside London.

It is a leader on the green scene and was proud to be European Green Capital 2015—the only UK city ever to hold the title. Compact enough to get around on foot, yet big enough to boast an exciting line-up of entertainment, Bristol offers a diverse mix of experi­­­ ences for all visitors.

Once a great port, Bristol’s thriving Harbourside is home to Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s SS Great Britain, the world’s first great ocean liner—now one of many top family attractions in the city. The renowned Victorian engineer also designed another of the city’s most celebrated sights, the world-famous Clifton Suspension Bridge.

There are fine museums and galleries here, many of which are free to enter including M Shed, Bristol Museum and Art Gallery, Royal West of England Academy and Arnolfini—one of Europe’s leading contemporary arts centers. Home of Banksy and other iconic artists, Bristol also boasts an incredible street art culture. Street art tours are a Bristol “must-do,” with the artists themselves guiding visitors around the city’s ever-changing urban outdoor galleries.

Attractions such as Bristol Zoo Gard­­ens, Bristol Aquarium and AtBristol Science Centre make Bristol a particularly family-friendly destination.

You’ll also find plenty of family-friendly at­tractions a short hop from the city— Noah’s Ark Zoo Farm, Puxton Park, WWT Slimbridge Wetland Centre, Old

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Attractions such as Bristol Zoo Gard­­ens, Bristol Aquarium and At-Bristol Science Centre make Bristol a particularly familyfriendly destination.

Down Country Park and Westonbirt, The National Arboretum.

Together with its Old City buildings, castle ruins, cathedral, Bristol Old Vic Theatre (which celebrates its 250th anniversary in 2016) and Georgian districts, it’s easy to see how Bristol has inspired so many writers, film directors, artists, actors, scientists, musicians and architects.

Roll around Bristol is home to over 400 parks and gardens—from magni­­ ficent houses set in large estates, to wooded trails harboring beautiful cityscapes, to spectacular forests and familyfriendly parks, you’re never far from green space in Bristol.

Nam­ed as the UK’s first Cycling City, it’s a hub of national cycle

Food and drink Bristol has been shaped by people from many different cultures who have brought their customs and cuisine to the city, and exceptional places to eat and drink are a highlight of a visit to Bristol.

Michelin-starred restaurants include Casamia on the Harbourside, Wilks Restaurant in Redland and The Pony and Trap Pub in the Chew Valley.

Restored Victorian open-air pool, The Lido, offers swim and dine days and serves award-winning food in its poolside restaurant while globally-in­­ spired street food can be found in St Nicholas Market and independent cafés line Park Street and Gloucester Road.

A full line-up of foodie festivals and events includes Bristol Food Connections and Vegfest, both held in May. For drinks, you’ll find friendly pubs, bars on boats, classy speakeasies for cock­ tails, old wine cellars offering tasting evenings, local gin distilleries and vineyards, ale from local breweries and, as the capital of the West Country, some of the finest ciders in the land.

If you’re in the mood for more after dinner and drinks, Bristol’s vibrant music scene and nightlife, boasting retro nightclubs, live music bars, friendly pubs, sophisticated cocktail lounges, underground clubs and popular gig nights, will easily keep you satisfied. There is also a daily line-up of live entertainment at the Bristol Hippodrome, Bristol Old Vic, St George’s Bristol, Colston Hall and Tobacco Factory Theatres. If you feel like you’ve parti­­ed a little bit too much the next day, a relaxing spa day in Bath is all you need.

The English countryside Bristol truly is the gateway to South West England and it’s the perfect base for exploring nearby Thornbury Castle, Berkeley Castle, as well as the Cotswolds, Bath, Glastonbury and Stonehenge! v

Home of Banksy and other iconic artists, Bristol also boasts an incredible street art culture. Street art tours are a Bristol “mustdo,” with the artists themselves guiding visitors around the city’s ever-changing urban outdoor galleries.

Issue two 99

Bath: Immerse yourself!

A thriving and vibrant city, Bath combines fascinating history with a diversity of museums, galleries, gardens and tourist attractions, making it a beautiful and exciting city to visit. Come to Bath for a day of sightseeing and shopping or stay for a short break of pure relaxation and indulgence. It’s no coincidence that Bath is regularly voted the UK’s leading city break destination.

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head to Milsom Street and Bartlett Street where you will find many quirky, boutique fashion retail­­­ ers and independent outlets. For High Street favo­­rites, head to Stall Street and the SouthGate shopping quarter.

No trip to Bath would be com­­ plete without visiting the worldfamous Roman Baths. Here you can walk on the ancient stone pavements and admire the magnificent great Bath.

Make time to visit some of Bath’s other great museums and galleries from the Jane Austen Centre to the Holburne Museum. After all of the sightseeing, why not relax in the thermal waters at Thermae Bath Spa before catching the train home?

The Crescents Bath boasts some of the most amazing examples of Georgian architecture including 6.5 crescents such as The Royal Crescent, Camden Crescent, Widcombe Crescent, Norfolk Crescent, Cavendish Crescent, Lansdown Cres­ cent and Somerset Crescent (the half).

Now that’s a lot of crescents!

Next year The Royal Crescent will celebrate 250 years, and to com­­mem­ orate this special event, there will be a special picnic in the park event where the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra will play to an audience of 10,000 people.

Time to get festive Bath has a thriving festival scene that will satisfy music lovers, outdoor ad­­ venturers and Austen fans; from Bath in Fashion to the Jane Austen Festival.

Set against the beautiful backdrop of

the Abbey is the pinnacle of Bath’s events calendar, the Bath Christmas Market, where you will find an array of wooden chalets bursting with colorful decorations and unique hand­­ made gifts. The Bath Christmas Market is regularly voted the best Christmas Market in the UK. Interesting fact: the word festival first originated in Bath since the city was once the backdrop for the very first festival.

Dive into shopping Bath’s reputation for shopping dates back to Georgian times— Jane Austen mentions the fashionable Milsom Street in her novel Persuasion, and it’s there that you can still treat yourself to some designer chic. For unique labels and vintage clothing,

Wet the palate Whether you are looking for an award-winning restaurant or a cozy café, Bath has something sure to tickle those taste buds. For a real taste of the West Country, head to the local farmers’ market at Green Park Station and pick up some local produce to take home. Bath is also home to dozens of award winning gastropubs. For the best gastropub experience in Bath, go to The Marlborough Tavern.

In October, when the city goes all foodie, you can head to Bath for the Great Bath Feast, a month-long food festival featuring tastings, chef demonstrations, cookery classes and much more.

Bath has always been synonymous with “taking the waters” and afternoon tea. Eligible women (Jane Austen included) would come to Bath and parade in front of eligible men and potential suitors. v Find more information on Bristol and Bath at www.visitbristol.co.uk and visitbath.co.uk

Get ready for beautiful English countryside and the tale of two amazing cities. WOW air starts flying to Bristol on May 13 and will offer three flights a week all year round from all destinations in USA and Canada via Iceland.

WOW! Two cities for the price of one or two vacations for the price of one? Make use of the WOW Stopover in Iceland on your way to or from Bristol; it’s like adding an extra vacation to your vacation!

“The icelandic museum of rock 'n' roll is as eccentric in it's telling as the tale it celebrates” david fricke, rolling stone.

The museum is located in keflavík / 5 minutes from keflavik international airport. for more go to / rokksafn.is

Issue two 101

Berlin

Berlin – Museum city Berlin has some wonderful museums, the most popular are the historical ones that house significant relics or give visitors insight into the cultural history of times gone by. It’s impossible to check out all 175 museums in Berlin, so our friends at Berlinur.de have given us a list of the best and most exciting ones.

Text and photos: Berlinur.de

Berlin has more museums than rainy days according to a recent inter­­ view with Burkhard Kieker, manager of VisitBerlin, with RBB. The city is home to impressive art museums, science muse­­ ums and some strange museums that have that particular “Berlinesque” quirk. Berlin even has a whole island just for museums.

How many cities have that?

The most beautiful woman in Berlin Berlin’s pride and joy is a bust of the most beautiful woman in the city, Queen Nofretete. The Egyptian queen who lived in the 14th century BC can be found at the Neues Museum on the so-called Museum Island (Museuminsel). Museum Island is also home to the Pergamon Museum, housing a grand and ancient altar from the 2nd century BC. It is the second most popular museum in Berlin, ranking just

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WOW Power to the people

Hamburger Bahnhof.

a little bit higher than the Topografie des Terrors, a museum dedicated to the horrors of World War II. German History 101 Visiting Berlin without looking into the city’s history is almost impossible. History greets you at every corner whether you’re interested or not. Many opt for guided

For the art lovers visiting Berlin, many days could be spent ambling around Berlin’s many art museums and galleries.

Recently Berlinur visited the Bauhaus Museum, which might define itself as more of an archive.

tours to learn more, but others want to study this remarkable story on their own.

A visit to one of Berlin’s history museums is ideal, and the history buffs have a lot to choose from. For those who want to catch as many birds with one stone as they can, the Deutsches Historisches Museum is the place to go. The museum holds 1500 years of German history with temporary exhibitions giving, even more, insight into certain periods or events. Most recently, there was a special display of art during the Holocaust and until August 14th you can feast your eyes on photographs de­­picting relics of the cold war by Dutch photographer Martin Roemers.

No one should let the story of the Jews pass them by in Berlin. Kreuzberg’s Jewish Museum is really vast and spans Jewish history from its beginning. Below the Holocaust Memorial there’s also a museum

Berlinur.de recommends: Neues Museum (on Museum Island) Bodestraße 10178 Berlin Pergamon Museum (on Museum Island) Bodestraße 10178 Berlin Topography of Terror Niederkirchnerstraße 8 10963 Berlin German Historical Museum Unter den Linden 2 10117 Berlin Jewish Museum Berlin Lindenstraße 9-14 10969 Berlin The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe Cora-Berliner-Straße 1 10117 Berlin Bauhaus Archive Museum of Design Klingelhöferstr. 14 10785 Berlin Hamburger Bahnhof - Museum for Contemporary Art Invalidenstraße 50-51 10557 Berlin Natural History Museum Berlin Invalidenstraße 43 10115 Berlin Computer Games Museum Karl-Marx-Allee 93a 10243 Berlin Photo: iStockphoto.com / bluejayphoto

about the horrors of Jewish history. Ad­ miss­ion to the Holocaust Museum is free, and there is usually a waiting line.

For the art lovers For the art lovers visiting Berlin, many days could be spent ambling around Berlin’s many art museums and galleries. Recently Berlinur visited the Bauhaus Museum, which might define itself as more of an archive. Their exhibition is most interesting and the museum’s plan for the future, even more so. In 2019, the museum plans to increase its space in a building that’s almost entirely underground.

But Berlinur’s favorite art museum of all is without a doubt the Hamburger Bahnhof where modern art from 1960 until today is on display. They routinely have excellent exhibitions, and to top it all off, the muse­ um has a terrific restaurant.

A night at the museum Berlin’s Museum of Natural History (Muse­ um für Naturkunde Berlin) is enjoyed by young and old alike. Right now, there’s an exhibition about Tristan the dinosaur, and children can get a guided flashlight tour of the exhibition after the museum has been

closed. Unfortunately, the guided flashlight tours are only available in German, but a standard audio guide is available in 10 other languages.

The strange ones Berlinur.de have a special eye for the unique and peculiar, and Berlin wouldn’t be Berlin without offering some strange museums. There is, of course, the Curry­ wurst Museum and a museum dedi­­­cated to the Trabant automobile, a common sight on the streets of East Berlin before the Berlin Wall came down. The Computer Games Museum (Com­­puter­spielmuseum) also belongs here; it might not be big, but it gives guests a chance to play long­-for­­ gotten video games and see the de­­velop­­ ments in the field. Even if rainy days are the best days to visit museums, visitors in Berlin will never be able to check out the

city’s vast sel­ect­ion if they only go when it rains. So it’s good to know where to go, even if it’s sunny. v

Written by Katrín Árnadóttir and Margrét Rós Harðardóttir who in 2014 established a tour guide operation in Berlin called Berlinur.

Berlinur offers a variety of guided tours around Berlin in both Icelandic and English all year round, and they recently added a new “best of” tour which blends all the key elements of their established tours.

For more information and booking visit www.berlinur.de or email them at info@berlinur.de.

Leave your umbrella at home! WOW air will take you to brilliant Berlin all year round from all destinations in North America. Find your flight at wowair.com.

Have a WOW stopover in Iceland on your way to Germany or back, it’s like getting two vacations for the price of one!

Issue two 103

California dreamin’

Photo: Photo: LUNAMARIA

Santa Monica Just 13 miles from the heart of downtown LA, is Santa Monica, the laid-back beach town with big city sophistication. With its 3.5 mile stretch of coastline and its eight walkable neighborhoods, there’s plenty to see and do.

by Cindy-Lou Dale Photos: iStockphoto.com

Five great photos ops It wouldn’t be a vacation without great photos to make your friends and family jealous via social media. Here are some iconic venues for great vacation photos in Santa Monica.

Route 66, End of the Trail sign Called the “Mother Road” by John Steinbeck in The Grapes of Wrath, known as the Will Rogers Highway and Main Street of America, the 2,450 mile-long Route 66, originally built to connect Chicago to Los Angeles in 1926 was decommissioned by the federal government in 1985 in favor of the Inter­­ state Freeway System. In 2009 it received its End of the Trail sign at the Santa Monica Pier which stands as the official terminus of this great high­­ way so deeply rooted in American history.

Chess Park Located near the volleyball courts at the Santa Monica Pier, the International Chess Park is where chess battles are fought. In the sidewalk is a life-size chess board, with permanent tables and chessboards nearby. Stop by to play a match with a friend set against the picturesque pier (remember to bring chess pieces), or watch the intensity of the games already going on.

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Muscle Beach Santa Monica is home to the original Muscle Beach, which dates back to the 1930s. With Hollywood influences, Santa Monica’s beach became a destination for gymnasts, stunt people, wrestlers, acrobats and circus performers who could be seen there at all times—hence the name, “Muscle Beach.” In 1958, Muscle Beach moved to Venice Beach but has since had the original area rededicated to and is primarily used by gymnasts and acrobats.

Singing Beach Chairs There’s a lot of public art on display in beautiful Santa Monica. One of the most popular works is the Singing Beach Chairs by Doug Hollis. Located on Santa Monica Beach between Pico Boulevard and the pier, the Singing Beach Chairs are steel and aluminum sculptures that produce oboe-like tones when the wind blows through them.

Called the “Mother Road” by John Steinbeck in The Grapes of Wrath, known as the Will Rogers Highway and Main Street of America, the 2,450 mile-long Route 66, originally built to connect Chicago to Los Angeles in 1926 was decommissioned by the federal government in 1985 in favor of the Inter­­state Freeway System.

McCabe’s Guitar Shop Specializing in acoustic and folk instruments, McCabe’s Guitar Shop (3101 Pico Blvd) also doubles as a live music venue, with its concert room holding 150 people. With its bare-bones decor and genuine vibe, you’ll find instruments like mandolins, bouzoukis and sitars in addition to ukuleles, banjos and of course, guitars. The list of musicians who have performed in this extremely intimate venue is impressive. The shop, as a whole, is known as one of the best places to visit not only in Santa Monica but all of Los Angeles.

Five great drinking holes Santa Monica is home and host to every shade of bar and every breed of drinker.

To seek out the locals (and avoid the camera touting tourists) here are five of the best.

Chez Jay (1657 Ocean Ave) Delighting Santa Monica patrons for the last half-century, Chez Jay is not only an institution but a registered Santa

Daily Pint (2310 Pico Blvd) This 25-year-old dive in Sunset Park is one of the few true neighborhood bars on the West Side. If you’re looking for great scotch at a good price, you’ll be pleased to find over 300 kinds of whiskey.

The Pint, as it’s known to regulars, draws as many beer geeks as scotch lovers with 33 craft beers on tap and around 100 in bottles. Here, drinking way transcends who you’re with and what you’re wearing.

Basement Tavern (2640 Main St) There is no shortage of chandeliers, taxidermy and comfortable lounge spots from which to view a Turner Classic Movie at this intimate subterranean bar in the Victorian (a beautiful mansion built in 1892, now hosting special events). The selective list of craft beer and cocktails, written boldly on a chalkboard-painted wall, is improved upon only by their discounted prices during their daily happy hour from 5-8 pm. Crowds gather on Tuesdays through Saturdays, anticipating the live music that fire’s up at 9:30 pm. v

Photo: filipefrazao

Monica landmark. From the genuine neon sign to the crunch of peanut shells underfoot, there are no frills here, just good drinks and good service. You’ll be unexpectedly charmed by the red vinyl booths, checker tablecloths and happily satisfied with an ice-cold cocktail and a round of steamed clams.

The Bungalow (101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica) Vintage details, oldies music and the retro cocktail menu at this hotel-adjacent bar by the beach are so carefully curated you’ll be surprised you weren’t offered a post-war costume at the door.

The Bungalow is the perfect place to sip a can of Golden Road and play ping pong. Arrive after opening hour and you’ll be waiting in line.

Father’s Office (1018 Montana Ave) For the best beer selection on the West Side, head to Father’s Office. The snug, heavily-wooded interior is likely to be packed with both local and pilgrim beer lovers, which only reflects the quality of the 36 beer tap list. Famous for prohibiting ketchup and allowing no substitutions on his burgers, chef and owner Sang Yoon adds two kinds of cheeses, arugula, and caramelized onion to his dry-aged beef patty. Both the legendary beer mecca and its signature dish can’t be missed.

Photo: LUNAMARIA

What are you waiting for? Get your ticket to sunny California with WOW air from around Europe at wowair.com.

WOW air will start flying to Los Angeles, California in June, offering up to four flights a week depending on your departure. On your way to or from Los Angeles, make a WOW Stopover in Iceland and get two vacations for the price of one!

ICELANDIC GOURMET MENU

Freshly caught seafood and free range lamb – with a modern twist

DINNER – 6 COURSE MENU STARTS WITH A “REFRESHING“ SHOT OF THE NATIONAL SNAPS BRENNIVÍN FOLLOWED BY A BITE-SIZED TASTE OF PUFFIN ICELANDIC OCEAN PERCH Slow cooked ocean perch, beetroot purée, spicy butter, serrano ham, beetroot ICELANDIC MINKE WHALE Shallot vinaigrette, crispy Jerusalem artichokes ICELANDIC SEA TROUT Yuzu mayo, truffle mayo, crispy quinoa, apple ICELANDIC PLAICE Samphire, green asparagus, blood orange, lime beurre blanc RACK OF FREE RANGE ICELANDIC LAMB Lamb fillet, leeks, pickled onions, browned celeriac, baked carrots, spinach and dill cream Dessert by pastry chef Axel Þ.

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apotek.is

CHOCOLATE ROSE Chocolate mousse, raspberry gel, Sacher layer

Issue two 105

California dreaming

What not to do in San Francisco Perennially dubbed America’s favorite city, San Francisco is high on every traveler’s must-visit list.

To help you avoid the common pitfalls most first-time vacationers make in San Francisco (for starters, don’t call it Frisco), here are a few tips from Cindy-Lou Dale.

by Cindy-Lou Dale Photos: iStockphoto.com

Don’t eat seafood at Fisherman’s Wharf The old adage holds true: The better the view, the worse the food. Oh, you’ll spot plenty of enticing-looking raw bars, with beefy-armed men in white aprons cracking open freshly boiled crabs, but no self-respecting San Francisco food-lover would dream of eating at any of Fisherman’s Wharf tourist traps.

Who’d have thought parsley sprig and orange wedge garnishes of the disco years would make a comeback? It’s not that the seafood isn’t fresh, but in the hands of the assembly-line chefs, it’s generally overcooked, badly sauced, and overpriced.

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Instead: Eat at Swan Oyster Depot For fresh-off-the-boat shellfish, queue up beside the locals at Swan Oyster Depot, a century-old landmark with just 20 stools lining a marble counter. With the exception of a creamy, New England-style chowder, the entire menu is cold—oysters on the half shell, cracked crab, smoked fish and shrimp salad tossed in Louie dressing (a sort of Thousand Island without pickles).

It’s perfect picnic food to take to nearby Sterling Park, atop Russian Hill, where you can gaze out at the glittering blue bay as you lunch. But get there early; once the lunch rush ends and the fish run out, Swan Oyster Depot close up shop.

For fresh-off-theboat shellfish, queue up beside the locals at Swan Oyster Depot, a century-old landmark with just 20 stools lining a marble counter.

smart. Alternatively, Lemon Twist offers something a bit more grownup with a custom-made piece— choose the fabric and design and they’ll tailor it to hug your every curve. go to Boudin Bakery 3 Don’t Sourdough has a long history in San Francisco, thanks in large part to Boudin, which has been kneading bread since 1849. The place has become an institution, and tourists line up to scoop chowder from the bakery’s hollowed-out bread bowls.

Instead: Head to Tartine Weekend lines wrap around the block at this Mission District bakery, but they’re made up of locals, not tourists. The semisour, lightly yeasted sourdough bread comes out of the oven at 5 pm Wednesday through Sunday afternoons, and it sells out in as little as an hour. If you’re counting carbs and can’t justify an entire loaf, come during the day and sample a dense, chewy slice of the country-style bread in one of the bakery’s signature croques-monsieurs.

Don’t expect to find counterculture on Haight Street Nobody has worn flowers in their hair since the 1970s— not even on Haight Street. The neighborhood has become a

4

Don’t shop in Union Square San Francisco’s high-rent retail district, Union Square is by far the easiest place in town to max out your credit cards, with big names like Neiman Marcus, Marc Jacobs and Gucci.

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Instead: Browse the boutiques in Hayes Valley Get hip to the indie-designer scene in Hayes Valley, one of San Francisco’s most happening neighborhoods, where inventive boutiques line a three-block stretch around Hayes Street, just west of Symphony Hall. Among the local favorites is RAG Co-op who rents rack space to 70 up-and-coming designers hawking denim skinnies, screen-printed tees and the occasional vintage item; the look is very San Francisco—youthful, sporty and

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WOW Power to the people

Photo: batuhanozdel.

sort of ‘60s theme park with too many head shops and frat-boy bars, not to mention a popular ice cream franchise occupying the storied corner of Haight and Ashbury streets.

Instead: Explore the Mission District For the real San Francisco-now experience. Before the dot-com boom, the Mission was the last ungentrified central San Francisco neighborhood, historically the heart of the city’s Latino community and the stomping ground of underground artists.

Today weekend hipsters with day jobs in biotech have moved in, but the vibe remains decidedly experimental. Explore the Mission’s famous murals in Clarion Alley with Precita Eyes Mural Tours, fuel up on $4 tacos, then wander down Valencia Street (from 24th to 16th St) and pop into only-in-S.F. boutiques.

At Paxton Gate, you can peruse housewares like glass terraria and vintage taxidermy.

Don’t take the Powell St cable car Lines snake around the cable car terminus at Powell and Market Streets, the beginning of the two major cable car lines, which carry tourists to Fisherman’s Wharf. While you wait—sometimes as long as an hour—you’re held hostage by D-grade accordion players, panhandlers and evangelists threatening hellfire.

5

Instead: Take the California Street line This is a cable car line few tourists know about.

There’s rarely a queue for this lightly traveled route because visitors don’t know what to do at the end of the line at Van Ness Avenue. But now you do: Grab a picnic lunch of succulent Cowgirl Creamery cheese and crusty French bread near the beginning of the route at the Ferry Building Marketplace and hop on the cable car at the foot of California Street.

Then, from the terminus at Van Ness Avenue, walk to Lafayette Square, in swanky Pacific Heights, for a hilltop picnic in the shadow of stately townhouses.

Afterward, window-shop Upper Fillmore Street alongside the city’s skirt-and-sweater matrons. (For a great photo from the cable car, shoot east downhill as you approach Stockton Street; the Bay Bridge tower is briefly framed right between downtown skyscrapers.) v

Whatever you do, don’t miss out on San Francisco. WOW air is going to fly you all the way to San Francisco from Europe via Iceland.

Book cheap flights to California with WOW air and on the way have a WOW stopover in Iceland for almost as long as you want.

From this coming June, WOW air will fly up to five times a week from Iceland to San Francisco all year round.

Find available connections to California from most WOW air destinations at wowair.com.

Issue two 107 Photo: pikappa.\}

The best of Baltimore

Charm City Beehive hairdos, battleships and Oreos… Baltimore lives up to its nickname of “Charm City.”

Although Baltimore is constantly evolving, its roots remain untouched.

by Lisa Merkey Photos: iStockphoto.com and Lisa Merkey

Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. Photo: iStockphoto/AppalachianViews

Established on July 30, 1729, the city was named after Lord Balti­­­­­­­ more, a co-founder of Maryland. Once, among the most important port towns in America, Baltimore was a main de­­ part­ure point for tobacco shipments to Europe. Baltimore has since become a huge metropolis, filled with museums, restaurants and many other attractions.

Each year, tourists come from all over the world to see all it has to offer.

The Inner Harbor A seaport since the 1700’s and a major tourist attraction for Baltimore since the 1970’s, there are many activities to do at the Inner Harbor. The two pavilions at the harbor contain many shops and eateries.

The Maryland Science Center and the National Aquarium are both on the harbor’s edge and provide hours of enjoyable activity. Other harbor front attractions include the Top of the World Observation Level and numerous historic water vessels. Visitors can

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WOW Power to the people

Baltimore holds boasting rights to being the home of many famous literary figures such as Fred­erick Douglas, F. Scott Fitzgerald, H. L. Menc­­ken, Tom Clancy and Gertrude Stein.

Fort McHenry. Photo: iStockphoto/EyeJoy

climb aboard and experience four historic ships—a U.S. Navy tall ship first launched in 1854, a U.S. Coast Guard lightship from the 1930s, a submarine that took two war patrols in Japan during World War II, and the last ship floating that fought in the attack on Pearl Harbor.

You can spend time on the water

with a sightseeing cruise, or by renting an electric boat, or even a Chessie boat, named after the mythi­­ cal creature said to inhabit the Chesapeake Bay. Fort McHenry During the War of 1812, the Battle of Baltimore was fought at Fort McHenry and inspired Francis Scott Key to pen the famed words that became America’s National Anthem (“Oh say can you see,

The USS Torsk submarine in front of the National Aquarium in Baltimore.

by the dawn’s early light …” You’ve heard it.) From atop the old fort walls, you can look out into the harbor and instantly get a sense of the location’s importance.

Fort McHenry is the only area of the US National Park System to be designated both as a national monument and a historic shrine.

Baltimore’s football team is named after Poe’s most famous poem, the Raven. At most games you can spy a live Raven on the field lending luck to the team.

Museums From culturally significant to family friendly or just downright quirky, Baltimore’s museums cover a broad spectrum. A few of the favorites include; The Walters Art Museum, the Geppi Entertainment Museum, The American Visionary Arts Museum, and the B & O Railroad Museum.

Each year about 13 million people visit Baltimore, some for business and some for pleasure. Come see what all the hubbub is about. You won’t be disappointed, Hon. v

FROM REYKJAVIK ase Purchicket t your oard! b on

All aboard for adventure!

The city lingo The Café Hon in Baltimore.

Nevermore Baltimore holds boasting rights to being the home of many famous literary figures such as Frederick Douglas, F. Scott Fitzgerald, H. L. Mencken, Tom Clancy and Gertrude Stein.

But perhaps the most notable author to reside (and later die) in Baltimore was Edgar Allan Poe. The master of stories about madmen, premature burials and mysterious women who return from the dead, was born in Boston, but later moved to Baltimore.

While residing in Baltimore, Poe earned his first money from writing and met his young cousin, Virginia Clemm, whom he would later marry (Yes, I said cousin).

The house where Poe lived from 1832-1835 and penned many of his classics is now a public museum. Kept in the original decor, the house also displays many Poe artifacts.

After his death in 1949, Poe was buri­ed at the Westminster Hall and Burying Ground in Baltimore, a wellknown architectural landmark. The church hall was built on raised arches above existing graves, creating an eerie atmosphere. Tours of the catacombs are available on weekends.

Upon visiting the grounds, you will find that two graves exist for Mr. Poe, his original humble grave in the Poe family plot and a much more elaborate grave/monument in front of the church.

Poe’s body was moved to the new grave in 1875. The original grave still stands as a marker.

All year-round

Before deciding where to go, it’s important to learn how to communicate with the locals. Visitors quickly notice how resi­­ dents of Baltimore refer to their city as “Balmer.” The traditional local accent, parti­­­­cular to some working-class areas of the city, has long been noted and cele­­brat­­ ed as “Baltimorese” or “Bawlmorese.”

Having a general understanding of what people in Baltimore are saying will surely enhance your visit. Here are a few keywords and phrases that you will need to know:

C

M

“Hon”: Short for Honey, “Hon” is a term Y of endearment and friendliness, a way of welcoming you into the inner circle. Some CM people end sentences with the phrase, “Have a nice day!” Bawlmorese sum it up inMY a simple word: Hon. The city also hosts an annual Hon Fest, CY a tribute to the working class women of Baltimore. “Hons” dress up in gaudy 1960’s CMY attire, and sport beehive hairdos held in place with copious amounts of hairspray.

The street festival has attracted visitors K from 39 of the 50 states and a few from across the pond as well.

“Goen downy oshin”: Translation, “going down to the ocean”. Baltimoreans look forward to an annual trek to Ocean City, a beach resort on the eastern side of the state. That trip is a combination of vacation, tradition and culture.

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Wooder: If one is thirsty, they ask for a glass of “wooder.” That’s water, hon.

Hode Ooon: What you say before putting someone “on hold” or want them to “wait a minute”.

Merlin: The state of Maryland, as in “Balmer, Merlin”.

Arn: What you do to wrinkled clothes.

Pockeybook: A woman’s handbag Oreos: Baltimore’s baseball team, named after the state bird, the Oriole. You may also hear the team simply called the O’s, Hon. Once you’ve got the lingo down, it’s time to hit the streets and see all B-More has to offer.

When you fly to Washington, D.C., get more, Baltimore, Hon! WOW air offers flights to Washington, D.C. and Baltimore from most of WOW air’s European destinations all year round. Also, try a WOW stopover in Iceland on your way; it’s like getting two vacations for the price of one.

Find cheap flights to Baltimore from around Europe with WOW air at wowair.com. Join our club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox.

May-Sep

WE GO THE EXTRA MILE! Issue two 109 Book online www.specialtours.is / info@specialtours.is Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour

There’s only one Sweden

Unique accommodations near Stockholm WOW air will start flying to Stockholm Västerås Airport in Västmanland this May. Sweden’s capital, Stockholm, is a great city to explore but don’t forget the lovely Swedish countryside and the Swedish people, who certainly know how to entertain.

Photos: Courtesy of Västmanland - The Essence of Sweden

The region of Västmanland, close to Stockholm, is a beauti­­ ful, historical province bordering Söder­­manland, Närke, Värmland, Dalarna and Uppland. The oldest city of Västmanland is Västerås, founded sometime around 990. There’s plenty to do and see in the province whether you’re looking for tranquility or ad­­ venture, but first thing’s first; where should you stay?

A silver lining Featured in “Unusual and Unique Hotels of the World”, Västmanland has some pretty unusual accommodation options. One of them is The World’s Deepest Bedroom, which is tucked 155 meters (508 ft) underground in the historic Sala Silvermine—one of the world’s best-preserved mine settings.

Even those not familiar with mining find the underground setting sensational. It is cold, damp and dark, but very beautiful.

The suite is situated next to the underground festivity hall and sur­round­ ed by winding galleries and thrill­ing cavities. Guests staying at the unique suite get a guided tour of the mine, but once the tour is over, the guide will leave you with refreshments, not returning until morning to serve break­­fast and take you back to ground level.

If you don’t fancy a night in the mine, you should opt for a regular daytime tour of the Sala Silvermine above and below ground and stay at the mines regular above ground bed & breakfast at Gruvgårdens.

For more information visit www.salasilvergruva.se

A wild streak We spend approximately one-third of our lives sleeping, so naturally we want suitable sleeping quarters.

And while many want their vacation to be adventurous that could go for accommodations as well. In Kolarbyn Forest, those adventurous types might find just what they’ve been looking for at the Eco Lodge, aka Sweden’s most primitive hostel. The Kolarbyn Eco Lodge (kolarbyn.se) consists of twelve little forest huts located by the beautiful Lake Skärsjön. With no electricity on site, the dark evenings

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WOW Power to the people

The most typical of Swedish dreams; to have a small red cottage to call your own, is something artist Mikael Genberg has been exploring.

Playing with this dream, Genberg has installed little red cottages in various places such as on top of the Ericsson Globe Arena in Stockholm, high up in a tree in the city of Västerås and floating on Västerås Bay.

red cottage high up in a tree. Guests climb a rope ladder to get to the room. The Utter Inn (Hotel Otter Inn) is the floating little red cottage situated out in the bay of Västerås. The single room of the hotel lies three meters (10 ft) below the surface of the lake and contains only twin beds and a table.

You can spend your night three meters underwater with panoramic windows in all directions.

The Ooops Hotel is a house that appears to be sinking in Lake Mälaren, which is exactly the illusion Mikael Genberg aimed to achieve. The house provides luxury accommodation with views of Västerås City and beautiful nature.

There are regular red cottages all over Sweden, and many of them are available for rent for those who want to experience the Swedish dream first hand and enjoy the Swedish country side. v

The Woodpecker Hotel in central Västerås.

Photo: Mikael Genberg

are lit by candles or traditional oil lamps. During the summer, fresh blueberries are picked from bushes all around the site for morning pancakes. At the Eco Lodge, you can also attend survival courses, bushcraft and wildlife safaris in cooperation with Wild Sweden.

Does the idea of no electricity sound scary? How about some moose? At the Gårdsjö Moose Farm (gardsjoalgpark.se), you can stay at a red croft with the majestic king of the forest around the corner. The exclusive croft is from the second half of the 18th century and in the old barn next to it, you can have a sauna, shower and relax. Outside the croft there’s a fenced moose park with forest and farmland where the creatures roam freely. Sometimes they come all the way up to the fences.

Make sure you take the moose tour and check out the Santa Claus and gnome exhibition, the souvenir shop and all the other animals on the farm.

The Swedish dream The most typical of Swedish dreams; to have a small red cottage to call your own, is something artist Mikael Genberg has been exploring. Playing with this dream, Genberg has installed little red cottages in various places such as on top of the Ericsson Globe Arena in Stockholm, high up in a tree in the city of Västerås and floating on Västerås Bay. Besides these there’s a larger and olso very unusual one, known as the Ooops Hotel! Genberg even has plans to install a red cottage on the moon, but for some reason, he hasn’t moved on that plan yet.

You can stay in three of Genberg’s cottages. In a park in central Västerås, Hotell Hackspett (Woodpecker Hotel) is the little

Primitive - The Kolarbyn Eco Lodge. Photo: Mikaela Larm

Oops – my hotel is sinking! Photo: Leon Grimaldi

The red croft at the Gårdsjö Moose Farm.

Wherever you decide to stay, make sure you get there the WOW way. From May 19, WOW air will fly to Stockholm Västerås Airport (VST) up to four times a week.

Book cheap flights to Sweden from USA, Canada and Iceland with WOW air at wowair.com.

Join our club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox.

Issue two 111 The Otter Inn Hotel. Photo: Leon Grimaldi

New WOW destination

Photo: iStockphoto / verdateo

Photo: iStockphoto / Shaiith

The adventurous Edinburgh WOW air recently added fair Edinburgh to its schedule and will start flying to the Scottish capital in the beginning of July 2016. Enjoy Scottish hospitality, listen to the smooth sounds of bagpipes, swim with the Loch Ness Monster, taste the national dish—haggis—and wash it all down with some fine Scottish whiskey. We guarantee you’ll get hooked on Scotland!

Photos: iStockphoto.com

Edinburgh looks like a fairytale with castles, palaces, cobbled streets, Gothic buildings, narrow closes, secret and old cemeteries. It’s no wonder that over 3 million people visit this historysoaked and intriguing city every year.

It’s time to see Edinburgh Castle Edinburgh is densely populated with an estimated population of 487,500. Edinburgh Castle is located in the heart of the city and from there it’s easy to get to all the city’s main attractions, either by foot, bus, tram or taxi. The castle is home to Scotland’s crown jewels and the Stone of Destiny. Be warned.

Every day at 1 pm the One O’Clock Gun fires from the battlements of the castle, giving unsuspecting tourists a good fright. Originally, the firing of the gun was a means of giving ships on the Firth of Forth (an estuary) accurate time.

Festival city Edinburgh is host to many festivals throughout the year, most notably the annual Edinburgh International Festival which has taken place in the city every August since 1947. During the festival, the

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city is like nowhere else in the world with around 4,000 different shows and events.

Edinburgh became a UNESCO City of Literature in 2004, the first city to be awarded the title. The city hosts the Edinburgh International Book Festival each year, a key event during the festival season, with author events and book signings from some of the most renowned writers in the world. Speaking of famous writers and famous fictional characters, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, most noted for his stories about Sherlock Holmes,

Edinburgh Castle is located in the heart of the city and from there it’s easy to get to all the city’s main attractions, either by foot, bus, tram or taxi.

was born in Edinburgh, and J.K. Rowling wrote her first novel about young wizard Harry Potter at the Elephant House, a café in Edinburgh, which has an inspiring view of Edinburgh Castle.

Higher ground When you fly to Edinburgh, we recom­ mend you experience the best of Scotland with a tour of the Scottish Highlands. Visit beautiful Glencoe, go monster spotting at Loch Ness, say hello to the hairy Highland coo and take in the breathtaking scenery. v

Practice your Scottish accent and put on your kilt, WOW air will take you to Edinburgh from USA, Canada and Iceland starting next July. Book your flight at wowair.com.

Going to Scotland? Why not use this chance to make a WOW Stopover in Iceland on the way?

It’s like getting two vacations for the price of one! Find out more at wowair.us/flights/wow-stopover

Photo: iStockphoto / JByard

All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890 SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL:

• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is Issue two 113

ns WOW destinatio

You want more?

WOW! We’ve been announcing a lot of new destinations recently but that doesn’t mean that our established routes have been forgotten. WOW air has well over 25 destinations and there are still more to come. You can also check out our destinations at wowair.com.

Barcelona Barcelona truly is the perfect destination; tasty tapas, seaside promenades and mind-blowing architecture.

Getting there is the easy part. WOW air offers 2-4 flights a week to Barcelona from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, from the middle of May until October.

Alicante Warm up by the Mediterranean Sea and taste the best of Spain.

WOW air offers cheap flights* to Amsterdam from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round.

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WOW air offers several flights* a week to Copenhagen from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round.

Dublin Ireland’s capital has become a modern European city without losing the grip on its Irish roots and just a stone’s throw away is the spectacular Irish nature.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Alicante from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, four times a week during the summer months and 1-3 times a week from March to May and September to January.

Amsterdam A city of art, architecture, cool people and canals, and don’t forget windmills, weird wooden shoes and tulips. Amsterdam is a fairytale and a great place to visit.

Copenhagen The former capital of Iceland is still a favorite among Icelanders and now’s your chance to find out why.

WOW air offers several flights* a week to Dublin from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round.

Boston The city that’s famous for Cheers and good shopping.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Boston from Iceland 4-6 times a week all year round.

Connecting flights* to Boston are available from most WOW destinations in Europe.

Düsseldorf This great city on the Rhine is famous for its art and culture, luxury fashion and lifestyle.

WOW air flies to Düsseldorf, Germany from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, twice a week during the summer months.

Frankfurt Frankfurt am Main, aka “Mainhattan” is Germany’s most cosmopolitan city but that doesn’t mean history isn’t appreciated there.

When you visit Frankfurt don’t miss out on the Mosel Valley for a taste of Germany’s best wines. Prost!

WOW air offers flights* to Frankfurt am Main from USA, Canada and Iceland several times a week all year round.

Gran Canaria The city of Las Palmas in Gran Canaria is a new destination because we love getting our guests into the sun during the winter.

Lyon Experience the gastronomic capital of France with all its history and vibrant cultural scene.

Nice Join us in the capital of the French Riviera and let the Mediterranean climate warm you up.

WOW air flies to Lyon from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, twice a week during the summer months.

WOW air flies to Nice from Iceland two times a week from June to September.

Paris The city of lights sparkles with art, culture and culinary delights. Experience the passionate Paris and all it has to offer. Just say Oui! WOW air offers cheap flights* to Paris from USA, Canada and Iceland several times a week all year round.

Milan Get ready for high fashion and high culture and don’t forget to feast your eyes on da Vinci’s Last Supper.

WOW air flies to Milan, Italy from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, 2-3 times a week from June to September.

Rome All roads lead to Rome but we’re going to fly to this most famous world capital.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Rome from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, once a week from the end of June to September.

WOW air offers weekly flights to Gran Canaria from Iceland from February to May 2016.

London London has been on our schedule from the beginning and for good reason. This sprawling metropolis is a popular destination all over the world. It’s sort of like a rite of passage for travelers; you have to visit at least once. And if you’ve already been there you can go the other way from Gatwick airport and visit the beautiful Brighton.

WOW air offers cheap flights* to London from USA, Canada and Iceland several times a week, all year round.

Tenerife Relaxing on a tropical island sounds like a dream and Tenerife is a dream come true.

WOW air offers weekly flights to Tenerife Sur from Iceland all year round and twice a week in January, February and March.

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Vilnius Are you hungry for something different? Visit the capital of Lithuania and see the UNESCO World Heritage listed Old Town.

WOW air offers flights between Vilnius and Iceland once a week during the summer.

Salzburg Looking for that perfect winter destination?

European ski resorts are known for being budget friendly and the Austrian Alps’ best ski resorts are just a short drive from Salzburg Airport.

Pack your skis; WOW air flies to Salzburg from Iceland once a week from December to March.

Warsaw The capital of Poland has some historic charisma and is a great destination if you’re on a budget.

WOW air offers flights to Warsaw from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, three times a week during the summer months and weekly from September to January and in April and May.

Washington, D.C. WOW air offers cheap flights to Washington, D.C.. Check out the U.S. capital and get acquainted with the history of the United States or party away in the lively city of Baltimore.

WOW air flies to Washington from Iceland 4-6 times a week all year round.

Connecting flights* to Washington are available from most WOW destinations in Europe.

The WOW Stopover When flying between North America and Europe take advantage of our WOW Stopover option. The WOW Stopover allows you to visit Iceland at no additional airfare. It’s kind of like getting two vacations for the price of one.

Find out more at wowair.com

* Note that the availability of connecting flights between USA and Europe may vary depending on the flight frequency to each city. WOW air connects London, Bristol, Edinburgh, Dublin, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Paris, Stockholm, Alicante, Barcelona, Lyon, Milan, Rome and Warsaw to Boston, Washington, D.C., Los Angeles and San Francisco in the US and Toronto and Montréal in Canada. Photo: Shaiith

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Issue two 117

Rafting • Ice Climbing • Snorkeling • Diving • Glacier Hike • Canoeing • Hiking • Kayaking • Cycling • Surfing • Boat Ride • Hot Spring • Swimming • Climbing Super-Jeep • Caving • Horse Riding • Sightseeing • Snowmobile • Whale Watching • ATV • Incentive • Skiing • Mountain Hut • Camping • Combo Trips

© Einar Ólafur Matthíasson | einarolafur.com

www.adventures.is

This and that …

mostly this

Einar Tönsberg nominated for Annie Awards

The Icelandic composer Einar Tönsberg was nominated for an Annie Award for music in the ani­­ mat­ed children’s TV program Puffin

Rock, in the category Outstanding Achievement, Music in Animated TV/Broadcast Production. The award ultimately went to Christo­­ pher Willis for his work on an episode of Mickey Mouse, but we reckon the nomination is a great recognition for Einar and his music.

Einar, also known as Eberg, has been making music in Iceland for many years with his first album, Plastic Lions, released in 2003. His song, Inside Your Head, was used in an episode of The O.C. back in 2006.

Pink bales of hay for cancer research!

The Icelandic director and actor, Baltasar Kormákur.

New movie from the director of Trapped The Icelandic director and actor, Baltasar Kormákur, who made the star-studded Holly­­ wood blockbuster Everest, has recently had a huge success with his TV series Trapped, a crime drama set in a small town in East Iceland. The Brits seem to love it according to The Guardian and The Telegraph with The Guardian calling it all kinds of fancy adjectives like “gripping” and “seductive.” Unsurprisingly, the Brits also seem to have a crush on the leading male actor, Ólafur Darri Ólafsson (see interview on pages 26-32, calling him the hottest man in Iceland. And who can blame them?

Baltasar has a new project in the works—the first Icelandic film from the director in four years. And the best part? He’s playing the leading role himself, which is a rare treat for his fans. But don’t fret our English speaking friends, the rights to the film are already sold worldwide! The film tells the story of an Icelandic doctor struggling to help his daughter who gets involved with a criminal. Sounds promising!

The Mountain strikes again!

The Icelandic strongman Hafþór Júlíus Björnsson, known to the world as The Mountain from the Game of Thrones, has a lot going on these days! He’s setting new world records on the regular, most recently in being the fastest to walk 20 meters carrying two refrigerators, combined weight of them being 450 kilograms. And the time he did in? 19.6 seconds! In between breaking world records, The Mountain also finds time to star in movies, most recently alongside martial arts actor Jean-Claude Van Damme. The film, Kickboxer Retaliation, is a sequel to Van Damme’s latest movie, Kickboxer Vengeance, which is a remake from the original Kickboxer from 1989.

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White bales of hay are a common sight in the Icelandic country side during summer but hopefully next summer they’ll show a little more color. Photo: iStockphoto / kavram

When driving through the countryside in Iceland this summer, keep this in mind: If a farmer has pink bales of hay out on the fields, he bought the pink wrapping plastic in support of cancer research.

Sláturfélag Suðurlands is selling the pink plastic and for every sold roll, 425 Icelandic krónur go to the Icelandic cancer research society. We hope every hayfield in the country will be filled with these huge pink marshmallows! Go cancer research, go!

Conan loves Kaleo The Icelandic indie rock band Kaleo performed their song “Way down We Go” at the Conan O’Brien Show last March. The song won an award for Rock Song of the Year at the Icelandic music awards held in February at the Harpa Concert Hall. O’Brien’s website, teamcoco.com, had an exclusive world premiere of Kaleo’s song “I Can’t Go on Without You,” two weeks before their appearance on the show. If you’re in the US sometime this year, you should try to catch the band on their US tour and witness true Icelandic talent, firsthand.

This and that …

mostly this

by Fjóla Helgadóttir

Jóhannes Haukur in Albert Hughes film

Daily tours

all year round

Icelandic actor Jóhannes Haukur Jóhann­ es­son (from A.D. The Bible Continues and Noah) is set to star in the Ice Age epic The Solutrean from director Albert Hughes.

Starring alongside Jóhannes Haukur is Kodi Smit-McPhee from X-Men: Apocalypse. Set 20,000 years ago the sure-to-be visually striking movie tells the story of fighting for survival when a hunting excursion goes wrong. According to internet rumors some of the scenes will filmed in Iceland this year.

e golden circ h T le

a on

Winter Lights Festival

super truc k

nowmobilin ds g an From the Winter Light Festival opening. Photo: Roman Gerasymenko

Vetrarhátíð or Winter Lights Festival is an annual event in the greater Reykjavik area held in February each year to celebrate the increase in light after the darker winter months. The festival centers on a wide variety of entertainment at various locations in and around Reykjavik, such as museums and thermal pools. This year’s festival marked the highest in attendance, making it a huge hit for locals and visitors! The dates for next year’s festival have been announced so if you’re planning a winter getaway in Iceland in February 2017, make sure you book your tickets around February 2-5 and check out the Winter Lights Festival.

Silent Flashes in Reykjavik Scandinavians love books?

Shocker!

It may not come as a shock to anyone to hear of the love Icelanders have for their books. A new world ranking has recently come out, ranking Iceland as the third most literate country in the world. The ranking is based on literate behavior in five categories, libraries, newspapers, education inputs and outputs and computer availability. Finland was placed first in the ranking and Norway second, with Denmark in fourth and Sweden in fifth place. Looks like Scandinavian winters might have something to do with this. What better way to embrace winter than snuggling up and reading a good book, especially when there’s a blizzard outside?

Silent Flashes is a photograph exhibit of Icelandic emigrants in North America from the time of the westward migration in 1870-1914. The exhibit was opened in Esja, a new showroom in Harpa Concert Hall, this March and will be open until August 31st. Nelson Gerrard, historian and genealogist of Icelandic descent from Manitoba, collected the photographs from all over North America and Iceland and saw to the graphic design. Photographers of Icelandic descent took most of the pictures in the exhibit, and a photographer’s “studio,” texts, artifacts and pictur­­ es illustrate the art of photography at that time.

Tel. (+354) 580 9900 ice@mountaineers.is www.mountaineers.is

Your Ticket to Adventure Issue two 119

This and that …

mostly this

Located in Hverfisgata 54, 101 Reykjavik.

A movie lover’s paradise Located in the heart of downtown Reykjavik, Bio Paradís is a nonprofit organization run

by Iceland’s professional filmmaking guilds. Screening the latest art-house releases from all around the world, as well as cult films and Icelandic films, it is Iceland’s first and only art-house cinema. The theater provides a warm, cozy environment for film lovers of all kinds—both in its three-screen theater and its well-stocked bar.

Events * The World International Film Festival, a global cinema event, will be held in Bíó Paradís from April 1-3, 2016. The film selection is interesting and diverse. * Premiering April 15th at The Nordic Film Days in collaboration with The Nordic House is Louder than Bombs, directed by Joachim Trier. A father and his two sons confront their memories and different feelings of their deceased wife and mother, a famed war photographer.

* Every Sunday is Black Sunday at Bíó Paradís where their special team of experts program old cult classic films. The program is curated by famous cartoonist and comedian Hugleikur Dagsson, Sjón, a renowned author, and Sigurjón Kjartansson, one of Iceland’s best-known screenwriter/comedian/musician.

Check out Bíó Paradís’ screening schedule at: www.bioparadis.is

* From April 22-23 the fifth edition of Polish Film Days will take place at Bio Paradís in collaboration with the Polish Embassy. All films are in Polish with English subtitles. Free entrance.

Guðmundur Ingi Þorvaldsson nominated Best Actor The Icelandic actor, Guðmundur Ingi Þorvaldsson, has been nominated in the category Best Actor for the National Film Awards in the UK, for his role in the movie Chasing Robert Barker. The movie tells the story of a photographer caught in a tabloid scandal. The competition is fierce in the category, with some of the biggest names in the business nominated, including heart-throbs like the Colin’s, Farrell and Firth that is, Michael Fassbender, Tom Hardy and Daniel Craig. We believe Guðmundur Ingi fits right in! When Guðmundur Ingi is not starring in British thrillers, he’s running one of the best independent theaters in Iceland, Tjarnarbíó, located in the heart of Reykjavik, right across the street from Reykjavik City Hall. Visitors can expect an exciting show every night of the week, whether it is a dance performance or an unconventional play.

Icelandic music on a roll Speaking of the Icelandic Music Awards and Icelandic talent, Björk received the most awards at the Icelandic Music Awards—four in total, among them Singer of the Year and Pop Album of the Year for her album Vulnicura. Of Monsters and Men received two awards, on for Live Performer of the Year and another for their song “Crystals” as Best Pop Song. Agent Fresco, a talent you should look out for, also won two awards; their singer, Arnór Dan, as Male Vocalist and their album, Destrier, as Best Rock

Album of the Year. Unsurprisingly Iceland Airwaves received an award as Music Event of the Year.

Of Monsters and Men.

Fast 8 filmed in Iceland The ever popular Fast and the Furious action movies franchise have an eighth movie coming out. The movie will be shot in the town of Akranes in West Iceland, a short, 40-minute drive from Reykjavík and also around Lake Myvatn in North Iceland. Whether Icelanders can expect sightings of Vin Diesel is not known at this time, but car enthusiasts have already noticed some of the cars used in the film and they seem pretty excited. Vin Diesel happens to be friends with Ólafur Darri from Trapped from when they worked on the film The Last Witch Hunter two years ago, so who knows … maybe a short visit to catch up with the crew and meet up with old friends is on the agenda for Diesel.

Bus stop turned storm stop A new innovative wind-powered bus stop has been set up in front of the Harpa Concert Hall. Designed by the entrepreneurs at IceWind, an Icelandic startup company, the “Storm Shelter” as the bus stop is called, has two small wind turbines on its roof to power lighting and heating inside, making the Storm Shelter entirely sustainable and

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producing enough energy to charge the shelter’s batteries as well in case of windless days – not a serious concern here in Iceland but it happens. Next up, IceWind will be introducing wind turbines for summer cottages this spring.

Brilliant! See more about IceWind and their brilliant wind turbines on page 80.

Sharing is caring

WOW! We’re so social

Active on social media? So are we and we love sharing great photos, travel tips, good deals and other fun things on our many social media outlets as well as to our WOW Club members.

Face to face Find WOW air on Facebook – facebook.com/wowiceland – hit that “like” button and add us to your favorites. Then help us share the WOW. We promise not to fill up your newsfeed with boring stuff or click-share games. Perhaps just a cute kitten video once a year.

Instant karma We’re on Instagram too but we only use it to share good photos and we never Instagram our coffee; that’s a promise … unless it’s really, really good coffee. Follow @wowair on Instagram for great travel inspiration or just to see beautiful places. Let us see the best of your travel photos by adding #wowair to you photos.

Oh snap!

Add wow-air to your list of snappy friends and watch videos and photos from our destinations created—for your eyes only.

Join the club WOW air has a special club for cool people and you’re invited. Club members receive regular club emails and will always be the first to know when we put out our awesome deals on flights. Sign up at wowair.com/wowairclub and join our posse. v

Tweet it We love tweeting @wow_air. It’s so much more of a challenge to have to put out the message in 140 characters or less, right? WOW air also has a special twitter page for queries and comments @wowairsupport where our social media team is ready to give feedback during local business hours.

Amazing 7 course menu

A unique Icelandic Feast Starts with a shot of the Icelandic national spirit “Brennivín“ Puffin – Smoked puffin with blueberries, croutons, goat cheese, beetroot Minke whale – Minke whale with tataki Arctic charr – “Torched“ arctic charr with parsnip purée, fennel, dill mayo Lobster – Lobster cigar with chorizo, dates, chili jam Icelandic roll, 4 pcs – Gravlax roll with Brennivín and dill. Avokado, mango, cucumber, dill mayo, rye bread crumble Rack of icelandic lamb – Lamb with onion purée, slow cooked leeks, chimichurri, baked carrot And to end on a high note ...

Icelandic Skyr – Skyr infused with birch, berries, white chocolate crumble, and sorrel granite Our kitchen is open 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu.

17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.

7.590 kr.

Sushi Samba Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík Tel 568 6600 • sushisamba.is

Issue two 121

Hey

look!

What’s going on over here?

Quite a lot actually, and if you know where to go you can live each night in Iceland like there’s a full blown festival going on.

WHAT: Simply Red Concert WHEN: 31 May WHERE: Laugardalshöll Hall Mick Hucknail and co are back in Iceland with one of Britain’s biggest soul and pop bands performing at Laug­ardalshöll like they did 30 years ago. Their biggest hits include the unforgettable “Stars,” along with “Holding Back the Years” and “Something Got Me Started.”

Get your tickets at midi.is

WHAT: David Bowie – In memoriam WHEN: 29 April WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall Some of the best musicians in Iceland join forces in honoring David Bowie – the legend, the wake of his unexpected death in last January. An unforgettable night is expected as Bowie’s successful career is celebrated with his music.

Get your tickets at tix.is

WHAT: The Volcano House Exhibition WHEN: From 10 am – 9 pm every day of the week.

WHERE: The Volcano House, Tryggvagata 11 The Volcano House is a good place to learn about Iceland’s geology via their exhibition and through their hourly screenings of two documentaries about Iceland’s most famous eruptions. The Emmy-nominated documentary Eyjafjallajökull, from 2011, focuses on the eruption in Eyjafjallajökull, which interfered with air traffic in all of Europe in 2010.

The second documentary tells the story of the eruption in Westman Islands in 1973. The exhibition in the Volcano House is a geological one where you can hold lava from the 2014 eruption in Bárðarbunga and ash from the eruption in Eyjafjallajökull.

The exhibition includes samples of pumice and semiprecious stones, and breathtaking photographs of past eruptions.

Showtimes of documentaries in English are every hour on the hour from 10 am to 9 pm.

For more information go to: www.volcanohouse.is/ Get your tickets at midi.is

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WHAT: Bryan Ferry Concert WHEN: 16 May WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall On his European tour, British singer/songwriter Bryan Ferry will perform at Harpa Concert Hall both Roxy Music songs and songs from his solo career.

Some of his most iconic songs include “Love is the drug,” “More than this” and “Slave to Love.”

Get your tickets at tix.is

WHAT: AC/DC Concert Show WHEN: 30 April WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall The glam rock lives on in Harpa Concert Hall as some of Iceland’s very own rock legends perform the songs of AC/ DC. Stefán Jakobsson and Ingó Geirdal from legendary heavy metal band Dimma along with many great artists are a part of the show so expect to shake all night long and become thunderstruck!

Find tickets at tix.is

WHAT: The Kenny Werner Trio WHEN: 27 April WHERE: Salurinn Concert Hall, Kópavogur For the first time in Iceland, jazz pianist Kenny Werner, along with drummer Ari Hoenig and bass player Johannes Weidenmuller will perform at Salurinn Concert Hall in Kópavogur, close to Reykjavik’s center. The trio has released three albums, Form and Fantasy, Beat Degeneration and most recently Melody.

Book your tickets at tix.is

WHAT: Tectonics Music Festival WHEN: April 16-17 WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall Tectonics is presented by the Iceland Symphony Orchestra at Harpa Concert Hall, curated by Ilan Volkov. The fifth edition of Tectonics Reykjavík Festival will take place in Reykjavik as well as in other parts of the world including Adelaide Festival with Adelaide Symphony Orchestra, Glasgow with BBC Scottish Symphony Orchestra, and with Only Connect Festival.

Numerous artists are scheduled this year including Robyn Schulkowsky, Alvin Curran, Stephen O’Malley, Jon Rose and Joel Stern, as well as performances by experimental duos Part Wild Horses Mane On Both Sides and Usurper. The Iceland Symphony Orchestra premieres works by Áki Ásgeirsson, Magnús Pálsson, Kristín Þóra Haraldsdóttir, Hlynur Aðils Vilmarsson and Úlfur Hansson.

Get your tickets at tix.is

by Fjóla Helgadóttir Photos: From respective events

WHAT: Standup comedy – How to become Icelandic in 60 minutes WHEN: Various dates all year round WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall – Kaldalón In one hour, Bjarni Haukur Þórsson promises to teach his audience how to become Icelandic. From tix.is: “The show is much more than a standup comedy routine; it is a hilarious blend of incisive and visual observation of the Icelandic human condition, the attitudes, struggles and everyday life. You will laugh and learn and at the end of the show, leave the theater feeling 100% Icelandic.”

Tickets are available at tix.is

WHAT: Iceland Symphony Orchestra – Open rehearsals WHEN: Thursday mornings February - June WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall Iceland Symphony Orchestra has open rehearsal each Thursday morning from February till June.

Bear in mind the rehearsal is a working rehearsal and as such the program might not be played in its entirety.

Tickets are available at tix.is

Since 2012, the Color Run has been held in over 300 cities throughout the world. A colorful race that celebrates health, happiness and individuality, supporting local and universal organizations for children’s rights and wel­­fare. This year 5 million ISK will go to UNICEF, Icelandic Red Cross and the National Paralympic Committee’s youth division.

Get tickets at midi.is - Free admission for children under the age of 8.

WHAT: Party like Gatsby in Reykjavik WHEN: 7 May WHERE: Gamla Bíó The Party like Gatsby concept has been a popular event all around Europe, and in May, the show will continue in the party capital of Europe, Reykjavik! Party like Gatsby is a show full of performances from live bands, ballet, burlesque, magicians, acrobats, and more.

Tickets are available at midi.is

WHAT: Stevie Wonder – Song of Life WHEN: 20 May WHERE: Hofi Concert Hall, Akureyri The 40th anniversary of Stevie Wonder’s biggest selling album, Songs in the key of Life, will be celebrated at Hof Concert Hall in Akureyri, the capital of North Iceland.

Stefán Hilmarsson, Páll Rósinkranz and Eyþór Ingi will perform some of Stevie’s biggest hits including “Superstition,” “Isn’t She Lovely” and “Pastime Paradise.

Book your tickets at www.mak.is

WHAT: The Color Run by Alvogen WHEN: 11 June WHERE: Downtown Reykjavik

WHAT: Bill Bailey – Limboland WHEN: 28 April WHERE: Háskólabíó This April, the British comedian, Bill Bailey, is having his first show ever in Iceland. His one-man show, Limboland, has been a great success all over the world, in which Bailey contemplates the gap between how people imagine their lives to be and how they really are.

Tickets are available at midi.is

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What’s going on over here?

WHAT: STOMP WHEN: 11 and 12 June WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall WHAT: Andy Fairweather Low and the Low Riders WHEN: 9 June WHERE: Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri

WHAT: Bjórhátíð – Beer Festival WHEN: 4 June WHERE: Hólar in Hjaltadalur Valley Beer lovers unite! The beer flows and the BBQ is fired up as Icelandic beer distillers come together to introduce their finest brew, new products and what’s to come in the beer-making business.

Tickets are available at midi.is

Find tickets at midi.is

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A L S O B E S T 2 0 0 9, 2 0 1 0, 2 0 1 1, 2 0 1 2, 2 0 1 3, A N D 2 0 1 4

RESTAURANT

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WHAT: ATP Iceland – Music Festival WHEN: 1-3 July WHERE: Ásbrú, old NATO military base, Keflavík

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NEW AWARD

BEST THAI FOOD 2015

Andy Fairweather Low has performed with some of the biggest names in the music industry, from Eric Clapton, Bob Dylan, BB King, and many more. Early in his career, Fairweather Low and his band Amen Corner, had five top 30 hits such as Gin House Blues. In 2006, Fairweather Low released his first album in 26 years, “Sweet Soulful Music” – followed by a recent album of original songs.

All Tomorrows Parties events have been held all over the world for nearly fourteen years and in Iceland since 2013. ATP is famous for focusing on an intimate and fan-based atmosphere with a unique combination of performances from legendary and influential acts to up and coming experimental artists from every music genre. And the lineup at ATP Iceland this year is huge! To namedrop a few: John Carpenter, Sleep, Thee Oh Sees, Ty Segall and The Muggers, Angel Olsen, Les Savy Fav, Tortoise, Anika, Yasmine Hamdan, Blanck Mass, and many more yet to be announced.

Find tickets at midi.is.

WHAT: Krísufundur – Crisis Meeting WHEN: 1 May WHERE: Mengi, Óðinsgötu, Reykjavík “Crisis Meeting” introduces the strange world of Kriðpleir; a golden opportunity for arts enthusiasts and professionals to level with the performers, watch them at work and contemplate on the mysterious ways of the performing arts.

Tickets are available at midi.is.

WHAT: STOMP WHEN: 11 and 12 June WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall The critically acclaimed STOMP group is back in Iceland this June with their amazing beats and abilities to make music from the strangest things! A kitchen sink and a trash can lid? Music to our ears!

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You’ll find tickets to STOMP at tix.is

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WOW Power to the people

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Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration

With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.

All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com

Issue two 125

Aries

Libra

You’ve realized that other people are actually idiots and to save them from their dumb ways you’ve decided to run for president. These imbeciles really do need a wise leader but unfortunately, since they’re all so dense, they’ll vote for that other candidate. Being so wise you really should have seen that one coming.

Your trendsetting abilities make you a great role model for the elderly, which is why many of them have started coming to you with all their questions about fashion, relationships and their social media statuses—enjoy.

21 March - 19 April

23 September - 23 October

Scorpio Taurus

24 October - 21 November

Cubicle toilets are great for getting that hot office gossip but next time make sure they’re finished with the juicy bits before you let one rip!

Sagittarius

20 April - 20 May

Today you should believe everything you read, starting with this horoscope.

22 November - 21 December

Someone is going to cheat on you in the next days. Don’t go all crazy, though; it might just be at a game of Yahtzee or Kerplunk.

The stars are contemplating giving you last issue’s horoscope again because you didn’t follow any of the advice they gave you. If you’re not going to do what the stars tell you, why are you reading the horoscope in the first place?

Why do we even bother?

Cancer

Capricorn

Being a Cancer can make you a bit sideways every now and then, but you would never ever consider yourself weird. But just this once, be a bit weird, you might actually have some fun.

Trust us on this one.

While pretending to pick fleas off a coworker, you accidentally find some.

Guess the joke’s on you. Try some heavy drinking, it might ease that embarrass­ ment and wash away that icky feeling.

Gemini

21 May - 21 June

22 June - 22 July

Leo

23 July - 22 August It’s springtime, and the Leos of the world want to get in shape for the summer. Just remember that the best gear will not always get you into best shape and all that overtime you have to put in to pay for it will make you miss out on the actual practice—every year!

22 December - 19 January

Aquarius

20 January - 18 February Romance is in the air, but it’s looming somewhere over Spain, so unless this plane is leaving for Barcelona, you’re probably going to miss out.

Stay tuned – It will come eventually.

Pisces Virgo

23 August - 22 September When you find out your furniture has been cursed by the lady next door, there’s only one thing to do. Find a witch and curse hers too!

Then both of your furniture will be cursed, and depending on the outcome of that closet incident, there’ll be funny stories to tell the grandkids in the years to come.

19 February - 20 March You should find your elders and seek their advice. Otherwise you will make a fool of yourself. Fame is a fickle friend you know. Sooner or later those dirty tapes always find their way onto the internet.

Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsence. Any accuracies, real or imagined by readers, are purely incidental.

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Issue two 127

WOW Sudoku But how do I do it?

Really, really bored? Here are a few sudokus to make time fly.

The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: Each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler?

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Issue two 129

The Traveling Inquisition

Music and words She is 28 years old and the principal clarinetist of the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra.

“Music is a unifying force,” Arngunnur Árnadóttir says. This young woman is also a writer. Her first book, a book of poems, was published three years ago and her second book, a novel, will probably be published this year. The musician and writer loves Berlin where she studied for few years. She also loves hiking in Iceland.

by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: Árni Árnason, Alisa Kayanova and from private collection

“I love hiking, and last year I took a memorable trip to Kverkfjöll where I walked on a glacier for the first time. Iceland’s highlands are absolutely unique.”

At only eight years old, Arngunnur began to study the clarinet. “The soft and nuanced tone of the instru­­­ ment attracts me. A lot of fantastic music has been composed with the clarinet in mind, both solo and chamber music—Brahms and Mozart for example—not to men­­­tion its role in the symphony orc­­hestra,” she says.

Music is a unifying force Many people say that music is the highest form of art, per­­­ haps not least because it is abstract and without language, but at the same time it can arouse strong emotions. Árna­­dóttir says that working as a musician is a gift. “I enjoy playing for the dedicated audience of the Icelandic Sym­­phony Orchestra at Harpa.” If you’re wondering why— Harpa is Reykjavík’s grand concert hall, an architectural masterpiece designed for such magnificent performances. Arngunnur also plays with the Reykjavík Chamber Orchestra and last fall she was in the role of soloist when she played Mozart’s famous Clarinet Concerto with the Icelandic Sym­­phony Orchestra, both in Reykjavík as well as in several towns in Iceland.

More than words “Literature has, as well as music, been a valuable part of my life for a long time. I started writing when I lived in Berlin, where I lived for four years when studying clarinet at Hans Eisler Hochschule für Musik. Soon after I moved back to

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Iceland in 2013, I published my first book, Teenagers, a col­ lection of prose poems,” she says. Árnadóttir has for the last years been writing a novel that probably will be published later this year. “It’s a coming-ofage story of a young woman. Part of the story is a trip she takes with her friends around Iceland, experiencing among other things how the country has changed because of the rapid expansion of tourism.”

The traveler Arngunnur likes to travel. Berlin is one of her favorite cities; simmering with life and artistic energy. “I love the many green areas and how spacious and viable the city is. I love much of Europe, and apart from Berlin I can mention Paris as a city I always want to revisit. I’ve also been to Amsterdam many times since my sister lives there, which brings me to what seems to be my primary motivation to travel: Visiting friends and loved ones.”

Then there’s Iceland. The musician and writer likes the tranquility of nature. “I love hiking, and last year I took a memorable trip to Kverkfjöll where I walked on a glacier for the first time. Iceland’s highlands are absolutely unique and I support the cause of establishing a national park in the highlands to preserve the area in its current form.”

Arngunnur especially mentions the fjords in the east part of Iceland, the ancient mountain range and the many beautiful little towns there, where the so-called fog of the Eastfjords reigns and the atmosphere can be magical. And so we let Arngunnur go; there is great music to be played, mountains to hike and friends to visit in foreign cities. v

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Issue two 131 www.cintamani.is | Bankastræti 7 | Austurhraun 3 | Smáralind | Kringlan

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