WOW magazine - Issue 3 2016 by WOW air

e azin mag ISSUE THREE 2016

KICKINâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC; IT WITH UFC FIGHTER GUNNAR NELSON

PLUS: WHY YOU SHOULD TOUR THE REYKJANES PENINSULA

Y O U R F R E E C O P Y -TA K E M E W I T H Y O U

WHATEVER THE WEATHER...

ZOâ&#x20AC;˘ON is born in Iceland, and we have a passion for outdoor living. We love the feeling of being in sync with nature, of being part of something bigger than ourselves. This is reflected in how we design and create outdoor wear.

WWW.ZO-ON.COM

HOTEL GEYSIR elegaNt restauraNts, spa with hot spriNg jacuzzi, beautiful Nature & fuN activities

Geysir TOp 25 besT places TO phOTOgraph On The planeT earTh popphoto.com

Nice aNd cozy rooms iN chalet or oNe wiNg hotel right opposite of the hot spriNg geyser area gourmet a la carte restauraNt local luNch buffet every day hotel & spa outdoor activities all year rouNd amaziNg NortherN lights

Welcome,

hotel geysir 4

WOW Power to the people

WELCOME TO G EYSIR the geysir ceNter is directly opposite of the geothermal area of the great geysir aNd strokkur e

geysir glima bistro Coffee house With freshly ground Coffee sWeet iCe Creams & Cakes traditional iCelandiC meat soup fish soup & vegetarian soup loCal food museum of hot springs, volCano and iCelandiC glima

The geysir cenT er haukadalur www.geysircenter.com / www.geysirglima.com / tel: +354 480 6800 / geysir@geysircenter.is www.facebook.com/hotelgeysir / www.twitter.com/hotelgeysir Issue three 5

Take part in a great adventure.

the

Inside Vo Descend 120 metres into a volcano and explore an underground world.

One of twenty places in the world you must see before you die. - CNN

I have never been anywhere underground that matches the grandeur and impact of this place. - The Sunday Times

Standing inside a volcano is a strangely emotional experience. - The Guardian

More info: InsideTheVolcano.com WOW Power to the people

olcano

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WOW Power to the people

We look forward to seeing you Please book in advance at bluelagoon.is

Issue three 9

COLLECT MOMENTS - NOT THINGS!

“Iceland had always been one of my dream vacations. The island’s untamed and beautiful landscape make it the perfect destination for a nature enthusiast. I’ve made it my goal this year to check off as many bucket list items as I can, and boy did I come to the right place. Not only did I finally get to come to Iceland, but I also decided to take my first ever helicopter ride. If there is one place you consider doing it, I highly recommend Iceland!

“MOMENTS LIKE THESE ARE MORE IMPORTANT THAN ANYTHING ELSE IN THE WHOLE WORLD”

“we actually got to land on an old volcano and were able to witness up close the untamed power of geothermal energy” I flew with Nordurflug Helicopter Tours and they made all my wildest flight dreams come true. Not only did they have lots of tour options, but they were super flexible with their departure times and were ready to work around my travel schedule. I ended up choosing the Geothermal Tour which was 49.900 ISK, no more than a similar snowmobile or super jeep tour except with this choice, you get to experience Iceland from the air. I’ll be honest, I was pretty nervous at first but the staff at Nordurflug assured me that I had nothing to worry about and they were absolutely right. Unlike being in an airplane, the takeoff in a helicopter is smooth. It feels less like you’re being pushed back in your seat and more like you’re heading up in an elevator! If I had any nerves left after taking off, they immediately vanished as I was captured by the stunning landscape that can only be fully appreciated from the air. . 10

WOW Power to the people

W Re ly sk Th na Ic a wh we th m m m wh ev

As ac we po lan go po to ro na

MORE ELSE

y made id they ble with und my hermal similar choice, honest, durflug nd they ne, the you’re you’re ft after aptured

We took off from the domestic airport in Reykjavik but I was amazed by how quickly the scenery changed from the city skyline, to lava fields and volcanic craters. The juxtaposition of human life versus raw nature is so blatant and beautiful in Iceland. Being up in a helicopter gives you a true perspective of the country as a whole. It really gave me a sense of how tiny we are as humans... especially compared to the rugged and remote Icelandic nature! It made me appreciate the earth and helped me realize that moments like these are more important than anything else in the whole world. This moment was worth every penny and more. As if flying wasn’t enough, on this tour we actually got to land on an old volcano and were able to witness up close the untamed power of geothermal energy. The area we landed in was clearly off the beaten trail! I got to stand right next to the boiling mud pots and hot springs, there were no other tourists blocking the view and no safety ropes holding us back… it was just us and nature.

The pilot was very personable, super knowledgeable about the country and has been flying for years. I was amazed to find out he has done aerials for some big film productions like Star Wars and Oblivion. Needless to say, he kept our tour very interesting!

"it was just us and nature." Once we got back to the office, it took me awhile to actually “get back on the ground”. This experience was so thrilling and incredible, I had to let it all sink in! It’s a no wonder that Nordurflug has so many 5 star reviews on TripAdvisor and is rated one of the top activities. I will definitely be recommending this to anyone visiting Iceland, as you have to find out how amazing this is for you! If you’re having any hesitations just remember, the only trip you will regret is the one you don’t - Kelsey Heide take.”

+ Issue three 11

WHAL of Akureyri AKUREYRI WHALE WATCHING

ARCTIC CIRCLE EXPRESS

WHALE WATCHING EXTREME

We look forward to seeing you in Akureyri Please book in advance at ambassador.is WOW

Power to the people

GPS: 65° 681567N 18° 086479W

LES

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SUCC

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Sighti guara ng ntee

Tel: (+354) 462 6800 info@ambassador.is ambassador.is

Whale watching is our passion

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IN THIS ISSUE 16 A LETTER FROM THE CEO 18 WOW CYCLOTHON WOW Cyclothon is a solo or relay bike race around Iceland, a charity event and an absolutely unique way to experience Icelandic nature around the summer solstice.

POWER TO THE PEOPLE – ISSUE THREE 2016

22 HOW TO EAT ICELANDIC FOOD There’s a lot more to Icelandic food than fermented shark and sheep testicles. 24 THE ULTIMATE SUMMER EVENT Does a four-day party during the summer solstice with some of the biggest bands on Earth sound good to you? Us too. Let’s go!

A LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

GO ON, EXPLORE!

ith summer in full force and 24 hours of blessed daylight, we’re soaking it up enjoying all the perks of living in Iceland. Magical places and spaces are just around the corner everywhere you go; sometimes they’re even closer than you think. Our WOW air planes all land at Keflavik airport on the Reykjanes Peninsula, a place so rich of geological history and curiosities that it is now a UNESCO Geopark. The area is often overlooked by visitors and Icelanders alike, simply because we tend to rush through it on our way to or from the airport. Big mistake! Whether you’re having a short WOW Stopover or a long vacation in Iceland, this area should be on your list of places to explore. It’s filled with lava fields, craters, geothermal springs and mud pools, great cliffs, old lighthouses, rock beaches, surf, historic sites and of course the Blue Lagoon. This small part of Iceland has almost everything. Almost I say because it lacks just one thing, waterfalls, but those you can catch almost anywhere else around the country. Wherever you go in Iceland, there are things to explore and enjoy. Don’t miss out on the true magic by going by too fast. Have a slow trip and enjoy.

ma gaz

The FOOd issueuFc FighTer gunnar nelsOn WOW magazine – KicKin‘ iT WiTh

ine

Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir, editor in chief magazine@wow.is

Issue three 2016

KicKin‘ it with UFc Fighter Gunnar nelson

Power to the PeoPle 2015 Issue three 2016

Plus: Why you should tour the reykjanes Peninsula

y o u r f r e e c o p y -ta k e m e w i t h y o u

On the cover No Icelander has gotten further within the MMA scene than UFC fighter Gunnar Nelson, who’s now number 11 in the UFC’s welterweight ranks. Our photographer Kristinn Magnusson took Gunnar out for a stroll around Oskjuhlid Hill in Reykjavik and shot a few photographs along the way.

26 THE ICELANDIC SAGAS If you’re curious about Iceland’s literary heritage, a quick and hilarious introduction at Harpa Concert Hall is in order. 28 CAPITAL ART Check out Iceland’s most beloved painter, Jóhannes S. Kjarval.

86 SEA MONSTERS ON THE ROAM The giants of the sea have fascinated humans for centuries.

30 WOW ON THE GO Tens of thousands applied for WOW air’s SnapTraveler program but only four were chosen.

88 THE VATNAJOKULL REGION Filled with contrasts, the Vatnajökull Region is a great destination all year round.

32 FIGHT OR FLIGHT Iceland’s number one MMA fighter Gunnar Nelson may not be a big talker but we got him going about his last fight, his training and the MMA scene in Iceland among other things. 38 THE TOUGHEST TEAM IN ICELAND Iceland has no army but we do have a big group of dedicated and trained citizens who are joined in a voluntary effort to protect both Icelanders and visitors in Iceland. 42 LIFE OFF THE RING ROAD Krista Connor spent a few weeks in Ice land volunteering at a cow farm. 46 THE REYKJANES PENINSULA Don’t overlook the magical Reykjanes Peninsula during your vacation or stopover in Iceland. 78 ICELANDIC DESIGN HA magazine is a magazine dedicated to Icelandic design and architecture. 80 THE VIÐEY HOUSE On an island just outside Reykjavik’s harbor, you’ll find Veiðeyjarstofa or Viðey House, one of the oldest buildings in Iceland. 82 A ROOM WITH A VIEW For a new experience in accommodations, check out the brand new and chic ODDSSON hotel. 84 TAKE A HIKE – FESTIVE PATHS IN THE EAST It’s time to venture as far away from the capital as you possibly can and the deserted coastal inlets between Borgarfjordur eystri and Seydisfjordur won’t let adventurous hikers down.

Attention advertisers! Will your company be in our next issue? Contact our advertising representative and he’ll make it happen. He’s just that good! halli@wow.is

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90 THE U.S. CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM What is this? Why do I need to fill this out?

112 BRIGHTON UK’s most eccentric city is Brighton, where the raffish, the refined and the slightly barmy live in harmony. 114 YOU WANT MORE? Check out the other destinations of WOW air. Where do you want to go? 118 THIS AND THAT …mainly this. 122 WHAT’S GOING ON? …quite a lot, actually. 126 WOW HOROSCOPE What’s in your future? WOW air’s famed astrologist has the answer. 128 BORED ON BOARD? Solve these sudokus.

WOW DESTINATIONS 94 LOS ANGELES Rodeo Drive embodies all the glam of the big screen. 96 SAN FRANCISCO The “City by the Bay” lives by its own rules and that’s what makes it so irresistible. 98 MONTRÉAL It’s the time of year to have fun and Montréal has more than a few festivals to choose from this summer. 100 TORONTO The biggest and best happenings of Toronto this summer will definitely make your stay there more exciting. 102 BALTIMORE Baltimore is a city of neighborhoods, each a universe unto itself. 104 BRISTOL In Bristol, art is for everyone to see and that’s what makes it the street art capital of the world. 106 SWEDEN It’s time to get out of the capital for some slow travel. Check out the Swedish countryside and the cozy city of Västerås. 110 BERLIN If you really want to get to know Berlin, the guides at Berlinur.de are ready to help.

130 THE TRAVELING INQUISITION As an entertainer, a bingo host, a tour guide and a woman of the world, theatrical character Grandma Dídí has probably seen it all.

WOW MAGAZINE STAFF Editor in chief: Guðrún Vaka Helgadóttir Design and layout: Ivan Burkni ivanburkni@gmail.com Proofreading: Paul Michael Herman Contributing writers: Marvin Lee Dupree, Svava Jónsdóttir, Gerður Harðardóttir, Einar Skúlason, Cindy-Lou Dale, Judy Colbert, Krista Connor, berlinur.de, WakeUpReykjavik.com; Paul Michael Herman and Lisa Merkey.

WOWAIR.COM Tel: 00 354 590 3020 E-mail: magazine@wow.is Oddi environmentally certified printing company All rights reserved. Reprinting, direct quoting or recapitulation prohibited except with a written permit from publisher.

P.S. WOULD YOU LIKE YOUR VERY OWN COPY OF WOW MAGAZINE? Take this one with you or contact us through magazine@wow.is and we’ll send you a printed copy. You can also check out WOW magazine online at wowair.com.

Just North of Summer.

Keeping Iceland warm since 1926 Shop at 66north.com Issue three 15

A LETTER FROM THE CEO

“IMPOSSIBLE IS JUST AN OPINION” - Paulo Coelho

Dear friends, I can hardly believe it’s already been four years since the first WOW air flight took off to Paris after a few crazy months of working around the clock to get WOW in the air. Today, four years later, we have received not one but three brand new Airbus 330-300 aircraft to bring our total fleet to 11 aircraft, flying to almost 30 desti nations, and 600 people now call our “little” WOW their home. As I write this, I happen to be on board one of our brand new Airbus A330’s on our inaugural flight to San Francisco. Our dream of low-cost, long-haul flights is now becom ing a reality and I couldn’t be more excited. These four years have been a roller-coaster ride with no shortage of naysayers telling us this couldn’t be done, that it would be impossible to launch another airline in Iceland. Little did they know… Despite all kinds of obstacles on the road the WOW team stood together, accepting all challenges, and with great teamwork, overcame each and every one. This is how great character is built and how small startups can win great victories against all odds. I am incredibly proud to be part of this world-class team and grateful for their dedication and commitment to make WOW air a reality. Our journey has just begun, and I look very much forward to celebrating many milestones with my fellow WOW-ers in the years to come, as well as with you, our dear guests, as your choice to fly with WOW air is really what makes our dream come true.

WOW Power to the people

Thank you for choosing WOW air and taking a part in our journey. I promise that WOW air will continue to grow and that we will do everything we can to lower prices wherever we can while still finding ways to expand and improve our service. On behalf of all of us at WOW air, we say Happy Birthday! Until next time. Sincerely, Founder and CEO of WOW air

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WOW Power to the people

WOW CYCLOTHON 2016

AROUND ICELAND IN THE MIDNIGHT SUN WOW CYCLOTHON IS THE BIGGEST CYCLING EVENT IN ICELAND AND IT MIGHT EVEN BE THE BIGGEST ULTRA-CYCLING RACE IN THE WORLD IF YOU CONSIDER THE NUMBER OF PARTICIPANTS ON THE ROAD. THIS JUNE WE’LL SEE OVER 1,000 CYCLISTS AND TEAM ASSISTANTS TAKE ON THE CHALLENGE OF RIDING AROUND ICELAND’S RING ROAD IN UNDER 72 OR 84 HOURS, ENJOYING THE GREAT OUTDOORS, THE TEAM SPIRIT AND THE EXCITEMENT OF COMPLETING THE CHALLENGE. Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

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WOW Cyclothon is not just a race around Iceland but rather an unforgettable experience that every one who can ride a bike should try at least once in their life. Cycling around Iceland is not that hard, especially when you can share the course with your team. What will eventually floor you when taking on a race like WOW Cyclothon is the nature, the 24 hours of daylight and the calmness of cycling in Iceland’s “Middle of Nowhere” by the light of the midnight sun.

16 -14 4 0 - H V Í TA H Ú S I Ð / S Í A

A GOOD CAUSE WOW Cyclothon promotes healthy living and outdoor activities in the beautiful nature of Iceland while raising money for a good cause. The funds raised during WOW Cyclothon 2016 will go toward funding Hjólakraftur, a unique health project aimed at empowering children and teenagers toward activity by cycling. Hjólakraftur has formed groups around the country, spreading the gospel of cycling to young people who, for various reasons had been losing the battle to all sorts of lifestyle diseases and hadn’t found their place in the more common team sports. Hjólakraftur is not unknown to WOW Cyclothon. In 2014, the first Hjólakraftur team, with six teenagers and four adult supervisors, competed in WOW Cyclothon, finishing last but taking the pledge completion by a storm, and raising funds for a good cause. Last year they brought four teams to the race and with their combined effort won the pledge competition again. This year Hjólakraftur is bringing a whopping 20 teams, that’s 200 people, to WOW Cyclothon, who will all cycle in their own Hjólakraftur division.

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CYCLOTHON HISTORY WOW Cyclothon, a relay bike race where team members take turns cycling on Iceland’s Ring Road in less than 72 hours, is the brainchild of Magnus Ragnarsson VP of Media and Markets at Iceland Telecom and WOW air’s CEO Skuli Mogensen, both of whom have somewhat of a competitive streak. While talking and comparing notes on their previous challenges, mostly triathlons, and brainstorming what challenges to take on next, they realized that no such challenge existed in Iceland. They concluded that if they wanted to take on a big challenge in Iceland they would have to create one themselves. Then the idea of cycling around the country came up. From this great idea, the WOW Cyclothon became a reality and has been gaining momentum ever since.

Visit www.wowcyclothon.com for more information.

WHO WILL BE THERE? There’s a great variety of teams competing in the WOW Cyclothon; longtime friends, work colleagues, extended families, gym buddies and professional cyclists; there are all women’s teams, all men’s teams and mixed teams. Some take part to win, some to enjoy nature and others do it for the extraordinary fun but all are in for the challenge of a lifetime in a race they will never forget. v

Follow WOW Cyclothon on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram and flip through our live feed from the competition for additional photos and insights. You can also check out photos from the teams by checking out #wowcyclothon on Instagram. Add WOW Cyclothon (wowcyclothon) on SnapChat for additional material and fun. Visit wowcyclothon.com for more information about the race and how to sign up.

We’re expecting a busy summer but you can check-in 2 1/2 hours before departure and have plenty of time for refreshments and shopping in KEF. We offer unlimited free Wi-Fi, many charging stations and a range of nice restaurants and stores. Icelandic design and quality brands tax and duty free at the Airport.

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HOW TO EAT ICELANDIC FOOD

MORE THAN FERMENTED SHARK AND SHEEP TESTICLES Pickled ram’s testicles, whole sheep heads, the rooted Skyr and fermented shark are among the selections you‘ll find on the menus at restaurants in Reykjavík. Sounds delicious right? Just look at these photos! Photos: Courtesy of WakeUpReykjavik.com

But of course, there is a lot more to the Icelandic food scene than just that. And to be honest, these “funky” foods are mostly just a part of a fun tradition we celebrate to make sure that we don’t forget the good old days before the hot dogs, American fast food chains and awesome restaurants on every block that we have today! The food and restaurant scene in Reykjavik has literally exploded these past years with talented, young local chefs opening interesting restaurants all over the city. There are plenty of options when it comes to good international cuisines, but even more offering brilliant varieties of unique Icelandic food. And that is definitely what we recommend during your holiday in Iceland. COOL DISHES For us, when we think about traditional Icelandic food, we can’t help but think

about our amazing lamb and the fish; preferably cod. These foods are served in hundred different ways by chefs all over the country, but again, there is still so much more to it than that. All the travelers that we meet personally, mention that there is something special about our Icelandic bread and about how we brew our coffee. And then there’s our dairy products which are out of this world. So, if you like butter, cheese or ice cream, you’re in for a treat! Most Icelanders are, for some incom prehensible reason, absolutely crazy about ice cream—a fact that may come as a surprise considering that Iceland has a pretty cool climate with 9 months of winter. All confirmed dessert addicts will not want to miss out on this one! Other Icelandic dishes are of course all sorts of seafood, the controversial minke whale, puffins, horse meat, reindeer and the list goes on.

Written by Egill Fannar Halldórsson and Daniel Pétursson, two local foodie lovers from Reykjavik and hosts of the recently famous Reykjavik Food Walk Tour. Join their tour to see Reykjavik through the local’s eye and experience the absolute best of Icelandic food in the 4-hour Food Walk Tour. Got to WakeUpReykjavik.com for more information

IT’S IN THE WATER It goes without saying that the one thing that we haven’t mentioned yet is most likely the most important factor—the pure Icelandic water. That is the first thing that Icelanders start to miss when they go travelling abroad! This crystal clear liquid spouts clean and ready to drink from every faucet in Iceland, so make sure to have a sip when you get the chance. And a local tip: The water will be crystal clear wherever you go. So, don’t be shy to refill your bottle in any small stream or under the next waterfall! To wrap it up: If you are on your way to Reykjavik, we want to encourage you to fill up your stomach with as much Icelandic food as possible and then fill up your dessert stomach as well, because, you know, there’s always room for dessert. And when it comes to the fermented shark and those cuisines, you will probably survive a taste, so go ahead! v

Photo: Courtesy of Íslenski Barinn

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W E L C O M E

O N

B O A R D !

Elevate your encounter with Iceland! Amazing helicopter tours around Iceland for individuals or groups. You can choose from a 20 minutes city sightseeing tour up to a whole day journey and everything in between. AirTaxi! We are often available on short notice! Your wish is our command! The fleet is made up of the most modern and meticulously maintained helicopters on the market. The pilots are trained to the highest standards, experienced, friendly, multi-lingual individuals with great knowledge of Iceland’s spectacular nature. They will make your journey unforgettable. Safety and comfort of our customers is always our main priority. • We operate from Reykjavik (city) Airport. • We offer free transport services within Reykjavik city area in connection with our flights. • We can, on the other hand, arrange for a pick up and/or drop off from and to just about anywhere in the country. • You can either pick one of our tours or simply design your own. • We are flexible.

Our service team is on duty 24/7 and will happily assist you at any time. Check out our tours and prices on our website. E-mail to info@rehe.is or call (+354) 589 1000 www.reykjavikhelicopters.com

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ICELAND’S ULTIMATE SUMMER EVENT

PARTY IN THE MIDNIGHT SUN THIS JUNE IN THE CENTER OF REYKJAVÍK Ever wanted to party for four days with some of the biggest bands on Earth at a time when the sun never sets? Then Secret Solsticeis one event you won’t want to miss in Reykjavík this June. Photos: Courtesy of Secret Solstice

Being held for the third time be tween the 16th to 19th of June 2016, Iceland’s Secret Solstice festival showcases some incredible internatio nal and local talent, against one of nature’s best backdrops. This year sees Radiohead (UK), Die Antwoord (ZA), Deftones (US), Of Monsters And Men (IS), and many more headlining over the summer solstice weekend, with 96hrs of unbroken daylight gracing the event. The lineup is further rounded out by Action Bronson (US), St Germain (FR), Jamie Jones (US), Róisín Murphy (IE), Apollonia (FR), Skream (UK), Goldie (UK), M.O.P. (US), Agent Fresco (IS) and nearly 150 more. THE TIME OF YEAR Themed after the Old Norse religion and mythology, Secret Solstice has all sorts of cool names for the stages and spaces within the festival area, such as Gimli, Valhalla and Hel. These names are taken from ancient Viking religious and mythological locations, lending a very special aura to the event. Due to

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the festival being held over the summer solstice weekend, Secret Solstice 2016 will experience 96 hours of unbroken daylight. This promises a very unique festival experience for guests, especially those who have never basked in the famed midnight sun before. OFF-VENUE ACTION Secret Solstice also boasts some of the world’s most unusual side events. For those with an adventurous spirit, there’s the planet’s only event inside a glacier and the debut of the world’s first concert inside the dormant magma chamber of a volcano. For a more chilled experience, there’s a DJ party in Iceland’s oldest geothermal bath and a boat party after midnight that sails from Reykjavík into the North Atlantic. THE LOCATION Secret Solstice is conveniently located smack down in the middle of Reykjavik, a stone’s throw from the downtown area with multiple hotels, restaurants and

bars, so finding accommodation close by won’t be a problem. If you’re on a budget, alongside the venue is a campsite and a fully equipped geothermal swimming pool. If you’re after the summer festival event of a lifetime that’ll surely secure you some incredible bragging rights with your friends, Secret Solstice is the obvious choice. For more information on Secret Solstice, tickets and line-up, visit secretsolstice.is. v

Getting to Iceland is the easy part... Book your own WOW air flight to Reykjavik from USA, Canada or Europe at wowair.com.

Powering the Future Welcome to the interactive energy exhibition at Ljósafoss Power Station, where the power of electricity is explained in new and creative ways. Open daily, free admission 10 AM - 5 PM.

Driving to Ljósafoss from Reykjavík takes about 1 hour. Further information: landsvirkjun.com/visitus.

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THE ICELANDIC SAGAS

THE GREATEST HITS IN 75 MINUTES Curious about Icelandic culture or looking for the reason why Icelanders are as they are? You can now learn all about it and have fun at the same time, at the Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits, a fast-paced and hilarious 75-minute theatrical comedy in English that takes you on a journey through Iceland’s literary heritage. Photos: Lilja Jóns

The brand new show, Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits is performed in English by two of Iceland’s finest actors and touches base with all 40 of the Icelandic Sagas in a refreshing way that will leave you wanting more. TAKEN WITH A GRAIN OF SALT According to actor, producer and writer, Joi Jo hannsson, one of the stars of the show, Icelandic Sagas is the brainchild of Lilja Nótt Þórarinsdóttir, who was a primus motor in putting together the company along with Olafur Egill Egilsson (one of the writers of Trapped). “They are both great Icelandic Sagas enthu iasts and even fall on the nerdy side compared to the average person,” says Joi. Together these three took the 10,000 pages of the sagas and made a 75-minute comedy show to give visitors and Icelanders an introduction to Iceland’s literary history and a chance to view these stories from an entirely new angle. Despite having some truth to them, the original Sagas should be taken with a grain of salt, as their “authors” may have added a little to spice them up. They are often hilariously grotesque, hint at

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homosexuality, make light of gory murders and they happen in a world where innocent things, like where to sit at a party, can turn into bloody family feuds and good poems can get you out of trouble with angry kings. This, of course, makes for great theater as proven in the Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits. Performed in the Northern Lights Recital Hall at the Harpa Reykjavik Concert Hall, the audience sits on both sides of the stage, which is set in the middle of the hall. This adds intimacy to the relationship between the artists and the audience which is further strengthened when the actors call on members of the audience to help with the show. For maximum experience try to get a seat in the front row. WHAT ARE THE ICELANDIC SAGAS? The Icelandic Sagas are narratives, mostly based on historical events that took place in Iceland in the 9th-11th century. The tales were passed on orally, from one farm to the next, and one gene ration to the next after Iceland’s settlement in 874-930. They tell of heroes and anti-heroes, villains, feisty females, betrayal, dispute, love, hate

and last but not least, pillaging, plundering and murder. In the 13th and 14th century, the Sagas were finally written down and today there are 40 known ones which have been translated into many languages and are read and studied around the globe. Icelanders hold them in high regard. The most popular ones are taught in primary schools and colleges and some people even devote their university studies to this subject. It seems like we never grow tired of the Sagas and it’s eerie how often their moral seems just as relevant today as it was in the first few centuries after the settlement. v

We can surely recommend this show to visitors and Icelanders alike. Tickets to Icelandic Sagas: The Greatest Hits are available at www.icelandicsagas. com and harpa.is, and there are several shows a week until the end of August. Don’t miss out on this great educational experience or a chance to have a good laugh, but whatever you do, don’t drink beer with your skyr.

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thermal pools Reykjavík city museum Reykjavík art museum #reykjavikloves

Choose a card that suits your stay: 24, 48 or 72 hours

visitreykjavik.is Issue three 27

CAPITAL ART…

THE MIND AND WORLD OF KJARVAL Jóhannes S. Kjarval is Iceland’s most beloved painter and his art is deeply rooted in the Icelandic national pride. Now you can get thoroughly acquainted with his work at the beautiful exhibition on view at Kjarvalsstaðir Museum (Kjarval’s Place).

Much of Kjarval’s work is familiar to Icelanders. He practiced and mastered his artistic techniques but he also trained his inner eye. In many of the artist’s best-known paintings, you can see faces in the lava, you can see his favorite mountains in different seasons, you can see people he met and his fantasy about the world. The exhibition, Jóhannes S. Kjarval: Mind and World, comprises paintings and drawings from every period of Kjarval’s career. Kjarval was born in 1885 and a year after his death in 1972, Kjarvalsstaðir was opened and named in his honor. Different perspectives of Kjarval’s art have been on display at Kjarvalsstaðir ever since. Now Reykjavík Art Museum can display not only the museum’s own collection by the artist but also works from a private collection left by Ingibjörg Guðmundsdóttir and her husband, entrepreneur Þorvaldur Guðmundsson. The couple were great connoisseurs and collectors of art, and their collection reflects their good taste and the preferences of their time. Reykjavík Art Museum now has these works on loan from their collection, which is usually displayed or stored at Gerðarsafn (Kópavogur Art Museum).

WOW Power to the people

A PLACE FOR KJARVAL Kjarvalsstaðir itself is located in the heart of Reykjavík, surrounded by a lively and beautiful park named Klambratún. At Kjarvalsstaðir, you can enjoy art and have a light meal. If you’re lucky, Kjarval’s favorite cake, jólakaka (Christmas cake) will be waiting for you along with a nice cup of coffee. The Kjarval exhibition is extensive, located in the two halls of Kjarvalsstaðir. In the East Gallery, the artist’s two predominant subjects can be seen: On one hand, the land, and on the other, fantasy, followed by the combination of both factors in an airy flow of colors where land and air come together. The aim has been to emphasize the essence of Kjarval’s art arising from what the mind perceives. The West Gallery holds the paintings from the previously mentioned private collection, including Kjarval’s Course of Life, which he painted on the walls of his studio. The wall painting includes many of the symbolic features which are characteristic of Kjarval’s work, while it is also a world created by the artist as a setting for his work and daily life. The Kjarvalsstaðir Museum has been renovated in connection with this

exhibition with an aim to bring out the magic of Kjarval’s works and give the viewers an opportunity to relish his paintings and drawings in an unforgetta ble atmosphere where the colors of the walls play a part in the experience. The curator, Ólöf K. Sigurðardóttir, Director of Reykjavík Art Museum, and designer Axel Hallkell Jóhannsson, decided to display the artwork so that viewers could make connections, see Kjarval’s endless diligence, his view on nature (which at the time was may not have been considered worth much, but is now worth everything) and his favorite mountains and landscape which he painted again and again. v

Kjarvalsstaðir Museum is open every day from 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Admission is ISK 1,500 for adults and free of charge for children under the age of 18 as well as the elderly (70+) and people who are physically challenged. Students pay ISK 850. Guided tours in English are available every Friday at 2 p.m. The museum offers tours at other times upon request. Find out more at artmuseum.is or call +354 411 6400 for more information.

ENNEMM / SÍA / NM69061

Spectacular Whale Exhibition

RÐ

REYKJAVÍK HARBOUR

GR AN

HARPA

AN AU ST

MÝRARG

ATA

ÁN

“Wonderful one of a kind museum!” Loved this museum with its life-sized models of 23 different species of whales! Interesting and informative exhibits, well worth a visit! The staff was friendly and helpful, and we loved the gift shop, too.

ISL ÓÐ

Come and see full-scale models of the 23 whale species that have been found off Iceland’s coastal waters. Walk amongst life-size models, check out the interactive media and explore these majestic creatures in our family-friendly exhibition.

DA GA

Walk Amongst the Giants

We are here

Issue three 29

WOW ON THE GO

HAPPY SNAPPY TRAVELERS WOW air is all about being social, and having a presence on social media is just one way to do that. This summer we were looking to branch out and create more content for our friends and fans around the world, so we created the SnapTraveler program and asked people to apply.

The people selected to become SnapTravelers get to travel to WOW air’s destinations and upload fun videos and commentaries about their visits to WOW air’s Snapchat account (wow-air). Tens of thousands of applications later, we have finally selected our four SnapTravelers, and to begin this summer program, we flew them all to Iceland so we could meet them in person. Here they are! NAILA ABBASOVA As the only female in the group, Naila says WOW air’s Snapchat followers can expect an amazing mix of adventure and fashion inspiration when it’s her turn to wield that camera phone. Naila lives in London, UK and works as a department manager at Selfridges. When asked why she applied to become a SnapTraveler she replied: “You kidding me? Traveling the world for free is a dream come true!” An adventurer and adrenaline junkie, Naila plans to seek out anything related to skydiving, paragliding and bungee jumping on her travels and her dream destination is San Francisco. Can’t wait for Naila’s adventures? Add Chiefadventurer on Snapchat. DAVE KEYSTONE Out of Toronto, Canada, David Keystone works as a television host and content producer, and he also does stand-up comedy. We asked him why he applied to become a SnapTraveler: “I was on my couch thinking about the fact that I’ve become an excellent snapchatter, and how to expand my audience. On that same day, I was thinking about traveling, and whether I could afford to take trips this summer or not. The very next day, my sister sent me the program notice.” Dave hopes to get sent to Copenhagen but adds that wherever he goes, he plans to eat as much food, see as many sites and meet as many people as possible.

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According to Dave what sets him apart from the rest is his comedic ranting style. “I also like to snap from the shower, so expect some good wet-rants!” Want to hear Dave rant on his own time? Add DaveKeystone on Snapchat. PHIL CALVERT American born but now living in Copenhagen, Denmark; Phil works as a basketball coach. He says he loves Snapchat and loves traveling, so be coming a SnapTraveler sounded like a match made in Heaven. “Any of the 28 destinations is my dream. I’m just grateful for the oppor tunity. However, a destination that’s rich in culture would be great,” says Phil whose catchphrase is “Philing the culture.” “Promoting positivity is my priority. Showing the viewers of WOW air’s Snapchat what that country has to offer and how much fun it is to be there.”

Chiefadventurer

DaveKeystone

Need more positivity in your life? Add Philwaukee on Snapchat. ADAM ROSE All the way from Los Angeles, actor Adam Rose says he’d been dreaming about traveling the world for a long time. He jumped at the opportunity to make that dream a reality when he saw our StapTraveler program. Italy is at the top of his list and during his Snapchap stints for WOW air, plans on meeting as many people as I can and eating as much food as possible. “It’s all about getting out of my comfort zone,” the 28-year-old says when asked what kind of things he’s most excited to try out. “I think the main difference is I approach my content from a filmmaker’s perspective. My focus is in storytelling,” he says and promises that viewers won’t be bored. Bored right now? Add realadamrose on Snapchat.

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Issue three 31

GUNNAR NELSON

FIGHT OR FLIGHT Powerful but light, Gunnar Nelson, aka Gunni, is Iceland‘s number one mixed martial arts (MMA) and Brazilian jiu jitzu (BJJ) fighter and competes in the welterweight division in the Ultimate Fighting Championship (UFC). He’s one of the reasons Iceland now has a blossoming MMA scene and one of the finest MMA gyms in Europe, Mjolnir. Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

t’s hard to believe that the MMA scene in Iceland is only a little over 10 years old, because today, it seems like almost everyone is practicing some form of martial arts in addition to watching the UFC—especially when Gunni is fighting.

HOW IT ALL BEGAN Like any normal boy in Iceland, Gunni start ed his career in sports by going to football practices but when he discovered hockey he thought he’d found his sport. “That was the first sport that truly interested me. I trained for 3 or four years, and I really loved it. I think the main reason I quit was that the other guys were quitting one by one. We were 13 or 14 and girls had begun to hold our interest. I wanted to hang out with my friends more than I wanted to go to practice,” Gunnar tells us. Not one for staying still, Gunni started karate soon after, and that’s where he met Jon Vidar Arnthorsson. “We started practicing kumite together; that’s a more freestyle form of karate, but there are restrictions on how hard you can hit your opponent. Jon Vidar had been following the MMA scene abroad, and he’s the one who introduced me to it. We began practicing wrestling and grappling more which later turned into full blown MMA practices.” Along with a few other young men from their karate dojo Thorshamar (Thor’s hammer), Gunnar and Jon Vidar joined two BJJ blue belts, Bjarni B and Arnar Freyr, and formed their own team. “They knew how to grapple and wrestle, and we knew how to punch and kick and the ball just sort of rolled from there. Nobody knew how to practice MMA really; we were all beginners and always seeking more information on this sport. In 2005, we got a trainer, John Kavanagh, to come here and teach us. I decided to go to Dublin and train with him after his visit and competed in my first professional MMA fight in 2007.” That

WOW Power to the people

was May 5, 2007, at the Adrenaline Sports Tournament in Copenhagen, against the Danish John Olesen. The fight was pro nounced a draw. A DROP-OUT PROFESSIONAL From his very first MMA fight, Gunnar has been fighting professionally, aside from a short hiatus where he focused on wrestling, and he still trains with John Kavanagh. “John has become one of my best friends. I go to Dublin and train with him, and sometimes he brings his guys over to train with us at Mjolnir, our MMA gym. When he first came here, we had to rent an exercise room. Now, ten years later we have around 1,400 people actively training at Mjolnir which has become one of the top MMA gyms in Europe and even beyond Europe. And it’s only going to get bigger. It’s amazing to think how this little club has grown; un believable really, which really shows the dedication and ambition of these people. The people who come here seem to catch up on this atmosphere, and they come here because they love what they’re doing.” Gunnar says that his fighting and training abroad helped a lot in the beginning. “The first Icelandic guy who went abroad to compete professionally in MMA was Arni Isaksson, aka Iron Arni. I followed in his footsteps, and this really helped the scene along. We learned so much by going abroad, and when we came back home, we taught everyone what we’ve learned. “I found that this lifestyle of traveling and learning more MMA really agreed with me, and it made me so much better. It’s telling really because this is how I work. I’m comfortable traveling on my own and getting the time to really focus on what I’m doing. That’s a key element for me. I was in college at the time, and I really felt like I was wasting my time sitting there going through old exams. This didn’t suit me at all. I had all this ambition for other things in my life but not school.”

“They knew how to grapple and wrestle, and we knew how to punch and kick and the ball just sort of rolled from there. Nobody knew how to practice MMA really; we were all beginners and always seeking more information on this sport.”

After a lot of skipping class to go to training, Gunnar finally dropped out. “The school’s principal actually had a meeting with me where he laid on me about my attendance, trying to put me straight. It was at that precise moment I decided I was done with school, and told him, ‘Look, I’m out.’ The next thing I did was get a job so I could go abroad to train some more. “ THE FIGHTS Since fighting his first professional MMA fight, Gunnar has had 18 bouts resulting in 15 wins, two losses and one draw. His first UFC fight was September 29, 2012, where he fought and defeated DaMarques Johnson with a rear naked choke 3 min utes and 34 seconds in the first round after setting up a beautiful body triangle. His last match was against the Russian Albert “Einstein” Tumenov on May 8th at UFC Fight Night Rotterdam in the Nether lands. Gunnar defeated Tumenov in the second round bumping Gunnar up to #11 on the ranks. After losing his previous fight against BJJ world champion Demian Maia in December, Gunni really came back with a vengeance. “You’re always stressed before a fight, especially the week before—there are a few days right before that are just extra hard. You’re pretty much just waiting. You’ve got interviews, and you’re constantly talking about this thing that’s going to happen, the thing that happened last time, the training—but what you as an athlete really want to do is just get in there and finish this project you’ve been training for. You get used to this the more you do it, but for me, that last week before a fight is the most trying of this whole process. “My fight before this one, against Maia, really hurt so it was that more important to me to come into this one strong. Dwelling on previous fights isn’t my thing, though, the next fight is the fight that really matt ers. Even if I’d won against Maia and every

Issue three 33

single fight before that one, I’d still have to win this one. I’ll always feel that I have to go in there and do my absolute best.” Losing a fight does affect the self-esteem but according to Gunni, it’s what happens during training that really matters. “When you’ve been doing this for some time you already know what it’s like to go out there and into the octagon to fight. Today, I believe that how I feel during training and that I know where I’m at in that process is what matters, not how my last fight went down. A STRIKER OR A GRAPPLER? Gunni says, going into that cage is always an uncertainty even though it’s becoming more and more natural to him. “Every opponent gives off a different energy; it’s different each time. Every fight is unique. It’s not just that your opponent has his own arsenal of skills and techniques but also this energy that forms between you and him. It’s never the same in any two fights.” Before getting into the cage with Tumenov last May, Gunnar and his team studied the Russian fighter. “We always go through the next opponent, how he moves, his body type, his strengths and weaknesses. We put together a list of things that could work against his moves, a game plan, but I’m not really the planning kind. I just want to get in there and play it by ear. That being said, during my training we practice so many game plans that they become second nature to me. You get in the ring, and you sense what’s about to happen and what you need to do in return. You don’t need to think about it. If I had to think about my game plan during a fight, it would be a disaster.” A well-known and often discussed fact before this fight was the fact that Tumenov is a great striker and can handle himself very well on his feet while Gunni is a very strong grappler. Did that play a part in Gunni’s game plan? “Of course, there were scenarios that I’d envisioned, taking him down and leaving him no space to get out of my hold, which was how this fight ended. But if I’d gotten in there and tried nothing but that it would have been easy for him to defend himself. I don’t see myself as solely being a grappler or a striker. I have my own skillset and style, and that works for me. I don’t want to limit myself to just one method of fighting; I want to make my own and do what works. During the fight against Tumenov, I started out standing and striking, countering his blows with takedowns and it worked. If you do this right, timing it right, that’s MMA.” LOCK THE BODY Gunnar took Tumenov down in the first round but lost his hold. In previous inter views he spoke about losing his con centration, but now he’s not so certain. “I’ve watched this moment several times because I thought this was such a fail on my part, and I’ve seen what happened. I was striking with my elbow and tried to do another elbow right after, but I over committed. I wasn’t careful about my position. Tumenov got lucky because the moment I did that he bridged his hips up

WOW Power to the people

“I don’t see myself as solely being a grappler or a striker. I have my own skillset and style, and that works for me. I don’t want to limit myself to just one method of fighting; I want to make my own and do what works.”

and caught me off balance. I doubt that he timed it that way, if he did that was absolutely brilliant on his part, but the reason I think he didn’t is that he tried the same move again when I took him down during the second round, perhaps thinking that this had worked really well the first time. But he didn’t time it right and when he tried I was ready and took his back.” Famous for his debilitating body triangle or body lock, you know that a Gunnar Nelson fight is almost over if he gets his opponent into this position. Soon after Gunni took Tumenov down and into a body lock the Russian tapped out. Not all fighters can take this position and hold it properly. “It takes a lot of practice to get your legs strong enough. Usually, they get tired too soon, and you lose the hold. You need both strong and durable feet to do this. You also need good technique. Technique always saves you energy.”

THE CLIMB After each fight, people start talking about the next one and Gunnar says, this time, was no different but nothing’s been decided yet. “What I want to do is come back here, start training and get better. I don’t dwell too much on who my next opponent is going to be or where. I don’t think I’ve ever been in a hurry to climb the ranks because I like the climbing. ‘The top’ is not necessarily something I believe in. I think that reaching ‘the top’ will always mean that you’re still fighting these guys, and then there’ll be new guys; it never ends. And of course, I want to win all the fights. I’m ambitious, and I want to do the best I can—go all the way. That’s what I think this is all about. Of course, I get what ‘the top’ means but I’m not necessarily thinking along those lines. I like concentrating on what I’m doing now, learning more, getting better. That’s the biggest reward for me.”

Issue three 35

THE MMA DEBATE Many people have a negative opinion of MMA and think it’s a brutal and bloody sport. Gunnar has often answered back during debates about MMA influencing young kids to start fights. “It’s like kids never got into fights before MMA,” he says. “People who don’t know the sport see this very differently and of course they’re going to think it’s brutal and that it’s a lot more dangerous sport than it really is. This is not like drunken street fighting where, besides being inebriated, you’re at risk of hitting your head on the pavement and being left helpless in the gutter. These men and women are trained professionals and the setting is as safe as it can be. Every precaution is made; there are doctors and other professionals on site during the fight, not to mention the physical exams you take before a fight to ensure there is no previous underlying condition that could be set off during the fight. That’s how it’s done in the UFC. This isn’t violence and it’s not street fighting. It’s a sport, and if you look at the stats, you’ll find that the accident frequency is no greater than in other contact sports. “I think it’s the purpose of the sport that offends people, the fact that we’re trying to overpower our opponent, hitting their head, punching their stomach, taking them down… to people, this looks brutal but at its core this is our way of learning how to defend ourselves. My interests are combat sports and martial arts and I would never get any better at it if I didn’t have this platform to try out what I’ve learned. By creating a safe environment to have actual fights, it’s also a platform for this sport to evolve. It’s a well-known fact that when MMA became more popular, other combat sports got pushed aside because they’d become a parody of themselves. People were dancing around in costumes and getting belts for it. If they got into real fights, they were in real trouble even if they’d studied this dance for years. The other guy wasn’t playing by the rules; he wasn’t going to wait his turn. That’s what a real fight is. Nothing is decided, you just fight and there’s something so raw about that. It’s not for everyone. but I think MMA training is saving a lot of people by giving them the chance to horse around and wrestle for sport.”

“There’s no perfect world; we just have to deal with the imperfectness of this one, and if we do I think it could become kind of perfect. Making things fair for everyone is far more important than trying to mold things into something they’re not.”

WOW Power to the people

BRING THE KIDS Regarding school fights, Gunnar also thinks that combat and martial art training is good for the youngest generation. “Absolutely. They should get a chance to come here, horse around and wrestle. It’s normal for us as humans. All animals do it. I’m not saying that we should throw kids into the cage and let them beat each other up. We have a children’s program here at Mjolnir where we’re teaching kids how to move, letting them grapple and wrestle, and it’s just natural to them. We’re not flowers, no matter how much some people want us to behave like flowers, we’re not. It’s the same when some people talk about gender equality like men and women

should be exactly the same. They’re not, and I think we should just accept that and make the best of that situation. There’s no perfect world; we just have to deal with the imperfectness of this one, and if we do I think it could become kind of perfect. Making things fair for everyone is far more important than trying to mold things into something they’re not.” FULL OF ENERGY Many might perceive Gunnar as being calm, sometimes even too calm and he admits he’s not really big on talking. “In my first interviews, I think I only gave yes or no answers, but I’m learning and trying to give a little more. Not every fighter is a performer outside the cage. But I wouldn’t say that I’m shy, not in the way I understand the word anyway. I think some people think I’m shy, because I’m not a big talker but I just don’t feel the need to produce these sounds.” Instead, Gunnar meditates. “It’s not something I was taught to do or anything organized but in my opinion, meditation is just sitting down with yourself, or even standing, calming your mind and getting a bit closer to yourself—finding out what’s going on with you. I like doing that and realizing within myself what it is that matt ers to me. I think about things that have

just happened, or things that are about to happen and connect them to things I feel are right or make sense to me. I organize my feelings and weed out the things that are standing in my way. It’s a method of maturing your feelings so they can be helpful to what you’re doing. When you do that you start looking forward to things; your feelings start elevating the things that feel right to you, the things you believe in, instead of pulling you in other directions. Meditation brings you together, calms you down, minimizes the effort and makes you able to enjoy things more.” This process of meditating seems to have just come naturally to Gunnar; he looks comfortable in his own skin. “Some people seem to believe that I have no feelings or that I never show them, but it’s the exact opposite. Ever since I was young, I’ve had very strong emotions, and I think people like me get pushed into harnessing this power. You have to get these feelings under control; there’s no alternative. If you don’t, you’re all over the place physically and mentally, having tantrums and wasting your time and effort on nothing. That’s why it’s so important to calm down because it’s all energy; that’s how I see it at least. There’s so much energy inside me and I just need to harness it correctly.” v

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Issue three 37

RESCUE ME

THE TOUGHEST TEAM IN ICELAND Where in the world are thousands of professionally trained citizens of a country, from students to doctors, farmers to university professors, joined in a voluntary effort to protect its guests and residents from harm and when necessary, rescue them from danger or death? Where, indeed, are there such people offering years or decades of their life at great personal sacrifice? There are teams like this in various countries, but perhaps only Iceland has an association covering such a wide scope of rescue operations from out at sea, mountain tops and down between the cracks in glaciers. by Paul Michael Herman Photos: Guðbrandur Örn Arnarson

The association responsible for this in Iceland is called ICESAR, the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue, and Public Relations Director of ICESAR, Ólöf Baldursdóttir informed us about the organiza tion through a recent interview. BORN OF NEED Tragedy on the sea is an old story, but “because of all the many fatalities,” Ólöf begins “it came to a point when a group of men in the Westman Islands (a part of Iceland) decided to organize themselves and do something about it. In 1918, Iceland’s first rescue team was formed. It would take another 10 years before an official organization, The National Life Saving Association of Iceland was founded,” says Ólöf. “Following this, in the 30s the Boy Scouts (actually young adults that were Boy Scouts), established their own rescue teams. Then in 1950, a plane crashed on Iceland’s largest glacier, Vatna jökull. This incident prompted the formation of an air-ground rescue team in several places around the country.”

THE GLOBAL VILLAGE Ólöf continues, “Through the years, these groups were, in a way, competing, but finally, in 1999, they merged under ICESAR. ICESAR is an umbrella organization with 97 rescue teams of 4000 mem bers including two teams with canines and one international urban search and rescue team that responds to earthquakes and other natural disasters in urban areas. This team works under the auspices of the UN. Besides this, there are thousands of other volunteers including youth groups, accident prevention divisions and older members.” When natural catastrophes strike around the world, the news flashes and the wheels start turning. Agencies in many countries assess the situation and begin the process of coordinating efforts to send help. That’s the norm, except in Iceland, a nation with a small population and not much red tape, the response can be very quick. “Following the 2010 catastrophic earthquake in Haiti,” says Ólöf, “a call was made to the minister of foreign affairs, Össur Skarphéðinsson—we got his okay and were off. The first rescue team to arrive on the island was ours.” MUCH TO DO With calls to help someone stuck in the snow, to life-threatening situations, ICESAR has plenty to do to keep its domestic teams busy. “In 2015 we received about 1500 calls for assistance in the Highlands,” Ólöf recalls. In recent years, Iceland, with a population of 330,000 has been getting more tourists each year. Last year 1.5 million came, and many of them received our help. Because there is such an influx, there are some teams that have been quite busy day and night monitoring things. (Late at night, during the summer; yes, the midnight sun is very inviting.) Ólöf describes the situation in the Highlands: “Uninhabited during the winter except for a few wardens and people that like extreme outdoor activity, the Highlands, with its hot springs, hiking

WOW Power to the people

trails and places where you can be completely alone with the elements, are a big draw in the summer season. Because there are so many people needing all kinds of assistance, there are 4 or 5 groups of volunteers from the rescue teams that sacrifice a week of their summer vacation and time with their family to dedicate their time there. When there are no emergencies, they inform people about the best route to travel or about the weather forecast. They’ll also help people drive their vehicles over rivers and streams since there are no bridges in the Highlands. “Ten years ago, before we had this arrangement, it could take from two to four hours to reach them, and there were some fatalities. But, now that the teams stay there, we arrive much faster; time is so important.” Ólöf adds. “Ten years ago, before we had this arrangement, it could take from two to four hours to reach them, and there were some fatalities. But, now that the teams stay there, we arrive much faster; time is so important.”

UNUSUAL SITUATIONS Tucked away in the North Atlantic, Iceland may seem like a quiet, tranquil island—and then, of course, there’s the reality. Situated on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, on the boundary where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are slowly drifting apart from each other, there’s a lot of geological activity. “In the past five years,” Ólöf explains, “there have been four volcanic eruptions. These phenomena attract a lot of interest among tourists and Icelanders alike. At such times, warnings are issued, but there are a lot of people that go to see what’s going on, who don’t follow the guidelines. For example,” says Ólöf, “a couple of weeks before the eruption of Eyjafjallajökull in 2010, we had the Fimmvörðuháls eruption, a much smaller volcanic eruption. It was located where people could easily view it and tens of thousands went to check it out. The air was cold,

Issue three 39

and the ground hadn’t cooled sufficiently. People were getting frostbitten fingers and burnt toes,” Ólöf says jokingly. “Besides this, the rough terrain is difficult to walk over, and people were breaking their legs. We had 60 rescue team members out there, 24/7 for several weeks,” she adds. “According to the Civil Protection Department in Iceland, we rescued about 500 people.” “The most dangerous search and rescue opera tions might be the ones on the glacier where there are many crevices, wide enough for a person to plunge into. For those calls, we send only our best mountaineers,” remarks Ólöf. “Each team may only have one or two of them, and they come from all over the country—maybe a hundred in all. “The most memorable rescue mission that the older team members still talk about, are the de vastating avalanches in Súðavik and Flateyri in the West Fjords in 1995. There were many fatalities, and this incident marked a lot of people for life. It was a bad situation; really terrible weather and digging through the rubble for days and days,” says Ólöf. Fortunately, most of the problems the rescue teams get called for are not like this. JOINING THE TEAM “Anyone can become a volunteer for a rescue team, but they must be at least 18 years old and ready to commit themselves to 18 months of intensive training,” says Ólöf. “After graduating, they can go on to specialize and receive more education.” As well-trained as many of them are, Ólöf recalls two incidents where team members lost their lives; one during an operation and another during training. How is it that so many people are ready to commit themselves to this? Ólöf describes the situation. “Iceland is a sparsely populated, big country with a harsh environment. It does not have

a lot of resources to do this kind of work. In another country, they will call out the police force or even the army to handle big emergencies. We have a small police force, a small coast guard and no army. So, many of the teams, especially in the countryside were formed, out of necessity, because there simply was no one else to do the tasks needed to be done. Ólöf informs. “Oh, yes, there are those that join to be in the company of like-minded people and then there are others who are adventurous or outdoorsy. It’s true, members of the rescue teams get access to gear and equipment that probably wouldn’t be available otherwise, like super jeeps, rescue boats, snow scooters, snowmobiles, 4-wheelers and 6-wheelers and, of course, all the education and training. They do enjoy the activity, but, of course, they all want to do good.” Icelanders are quite proud of their rescue teams. Ólöf describes it as, “a common project of the nation with everyone pitching in.” Young people need to be active, and if there isn’t anything worthwhile doing, kids will find alternatives. Through ICESAR, young people have a positive outlet for directing their energies. Ólöf explains, “We have about 50 youth divisions that train kids 14 to 18 years old in first aid, using a compass and other things that would be helpful if they were to join a rescue team.” In a world where people are often looking for how they can make a valuable contribution, how wonderful it is when these kids can be a part of an endeavor that is so needed and so appreciated. “Anyone can become a volunteer for a rescue team, but they must be at least 18 years old and ready to commit themselves to 18 months of intensive training.”

THE GENDER ISSUE There is no gender issue at ICESAR. Ólöf says, “In the past only young men between 18 and 24 joined the rescue teams. Women entered the accident prevention divisions. Then, about 20 years ago women started joining the rescue teams. Today, in Reykjavik, there’s about a 60/40 ratio between men and women. Now we’re also seeing a lot more of middle-aged people participating.” EXERCISES AND MEETINGS “Through the year, we have teams gathering from all over the country or from a particular area for exercises on the land or with boats coming together on the sea,” Ólöf informs. “Besides, these gatherings we have bi-annual meetings in which everyone is welcome. At the big meetings, we discuss issues and mark ICESAR’s course for the following two years. Our emphasis recently has been accidents among tourists,” Ólöf says. WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT OF IT? Perhaps you’ve heard that Iceland, with its tiny population, hosts one of the largest and most amazing New Year’s Eve fireworks display in the world—and this is not a government sponsored activity. For this event, a huge number of Iceland’s citizens buy fireworks. And we’re not just talking about the small stuff! If you see to what extent it’s celebrated here, you’ll never forget it. So what’s going on? What this is, is ICESAR’s biggest annual fundraising event. During the month of December, makeshift concessions are strategically set up in parking lots and vacant lots all around the country and the good citizens start buying, buying, buying. Before New Year’s people start shooting off their fireworks sporadically, but the real action begins around 9:00 pm on December 31. Go to a high point at that time and you’ll see continuous displays far and wide. And then, as if the plug was pulled, it completely stops at 10:30 pm. That’s when the whole nation tunes into a hilarious TV program highlighting Iceland’s major news events of the closing year, poking fun at the country’s personalities that shaped them. Then, just be fore midnight as suddenly as they stopped, the fireworks start up again, and they are everywhere, continuing with a roar at least until 1 am, and then some, for the next week. And it’s a good thing because it’s such a fun way for the whole nation to perform their patriotic duty toward their beloved rescue teams. “Besides the fireworks, at the beginning of Nov ember, a fundraising campaign with the sale of key chains begins which is always productive. And just recently a new fundraiser was developed where individuals donate some amount each month, automatically from their account. We have 12,000 donors now. We call it our biggest rescue team,” says Ólöf with a smile. While helping someone or saving their life takes a brave and well-trained individual, as Ólöf explains, “There’s no such thing as any one person getting the credit. Without the proper gear and equipment, good training, coordinated team efforts and fundraising, none of this can happen. Everybody deserves credit, and that’s how we see it.” v

Find out more about the Icelandic search and rescue teams at www. landsbjorg.is and read up on how to stay safe while traveling in Iceland at www.safetravel.is.

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RElax - enjoy - experience

- Welcome TO Mývatnssveit www.jardbodin.is · phone +354 464 4411 · info@jardbodin.is

Issue three 41

LIFE OFF THE RING ROAD

VOLUNTEERING IN ICELAND I watched, as the bus pulled from the parking lot onto the road stretching out of Vík í Mýrdal, suddenly shrouded by a stream of mist as I stood under the dominating presence of a towering crag. I was alone. I shifted my backpack, feeling awkward, standing outside the gas station which also functioned as a restaurant, gift shop and bus stop. I glanced down the road in both directions while passersby gave me curious glances. I waited. Someone should arrive at any minute to take me to a dairy farm where I was to work as a volunteer; milking cows would be my main occupation for the next three weeks. Story and photos by Krista Connor

n the USA, as writer for an East Coast magazine, it’s probably no surprise I’d never had a chance to milk cows. But I was on a tight budget and I knew I wanted to spend time living in Iceland, to be more than a tourist passing through. Volun teering seemed like the most promising option and would provide a small way to give back, too. The volunteer exchange site Workaway.info—free room and food for a few hours’ work a day—provided plenty of options and I narrowed them down to this one outside of Vík. Finally, two farm volunteers arrived, and we were off, up and down mountainsides into sprawling moors. We pulled into a rugged driveway with a sign for the farm, Mið-Hvoll (Hvoll.is) pointing a toward the ocean, a few kilometers away. A ROOM WITH A VIEW Once we arrived, the two girls left me to unpack. Out my window and miles across the tundra crouched the Mýrdalsjökull Glacier, looming in and out of the ever-changing mist—gone now—back again. You’d pay a bit at a hotel for that view. The two volunteers came to get me at 6 pm, sloppy in stained jeans and smelly flannel, hair pulled back in knit hats. I’d anticipated the slop and was already in an ugly flannel and baggy jeans. We walked across an open yard toward the barn, the girls a few paces ahead, jumping in puddles to splash each other. In a week, my older sister Leilah would be joining us from the U.S. I didn’t really mind being the new girl. A BARNYARD SOCIALITE The sun was level with the horizon when we round ed a corner Beams of light streaked through the shadows while dust was being kicked up by dozens of cows being herded in. A tall man, who I assumed was the farmer Siggi, was among them. He raised a languid hand in greeting to the girls, offering me a curt nod and “Halló.” That first night in the barn, I mostly scrambled, slipped, dodged kicks and ducked away from crusty tails. In my naivety, I’d figured we’d have to milk the old-fashioned way—by hand—but thankfully there was a much more modern method: portable milking machines. We’d hang the machine from a pole overhead, press a few buttons, bend down to the udder and attach four suctioning “teat cups,”

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eliciting a gross sucking noise. If suction was lost, though, the noise would turn into maniacal gasps and the cups would start flailing. Allowing this to happen, I sensed, was a barnyard social suicide. PERSONALITY GOES A LONG WAY On top of learning the art of milking, there were 40 cows with distinct personalities to get acquainted with. I learned who were the kickers, and how I should keep my guard up around an evil duo that would step inward and try to squash me between their massive bellies, while assessing my milking worth with their steady eyes. I discovered that cows are smart animals. Ultimately, some needed an intervention from Siggi. To I loved looking those, he’d give a tap across out the old barn the flanks with an Icelandic windows at the shout (“You have four legs, lighthouse on use them!”). Moments later, Dyrhólaey, a cliff though, he’d be plucking jutting into the dried mud off their backs, ocean a few miles whispering to them. They up the coast. It was loved him, and obeyed his a popular photo every command. stop for tourists, Milking would only take but to us, it was about an hour, and by dark just part of the we’d be pushing the hay neighborhood. barrel around for their dinner. During that time,

I loved looking out the old barn windows at the lighthouse on Dyrhólaey, a cliff jutting into the ocean a few miles up the coast. It was a popular photo stop for tourists, but to us, it was just part of the neighborhood. Whether the stars and aurora borealis shone or the ocean raged and rain slashed through the sky, the lighthouse never failed in its comforting nighttime orbit. GETTING THE SWING OF THINGS One day, a group of family members including Siggi’s mother Guðný, the farm’s matriarch, and Siggi’s teenage sister Jakobína, dropped in from their homes outside the farm. When night fell, Guðný came down the walkway with strong arms on her hips inspecting each stall like a sergeant in soldiers’ barracks. I was squatted quietly next to a cow, intent on applying the teat cups. Guðný hovered. I winced, praying one wouldn’t slip and make the dreaded noise. None did. “You look like you have done nothing else your whole life!” she said. “You should have seen me two days ago.” “Ah, two days ago is two days ago,” she said matt er-of-factly, and moved on down the row. I realized I was grinning stupidly at the compli ment. Somehow, between the awkwardness of living with strangers and feeling slightly lost, I was slipping into life on the farm.

Issue three 43

THE KINGDOM OF “SECRET” PLACES The work, while dirty, wasn’t an overload, and other than cleaning a handful of on-site farmstay tourist cabins, we were free to do as we liked. We could always visit local attractions such as Skógafoss Waterfall, Mt. Reynisfjall, Dyrhólaey and the town of Vík , but by living with Icelanders, we had a key to the kingdom of “secret” places, places that are becoming less and less secret with the continuing influx of tourists. (One and a half million are expected in 2016 in this nation of 323,000 citizens) When Guðný drew a map in the air of a remote pool at the base of the glacier, the two volunteers and I immediately headed for Selja vallalaug, a man-made pool with water flowing into it from natural hot springs. We forded small streams before spotting it, nestl ed at the base of a mountain; waterfalls flowed all around. Vast lava fields surrounded us, and the place felt like it was new and alive. Like the famed Icelandic sweater pattern, jagged layers of white snow, brown earth and green moss graced the necks of mountains that formed a watchful semicircle around us. When we got back, Guðný asked us about the adventure. She was baking a chocolate cake and scrubbing singed and split sheep heads, known as svið, a traditional Icelandic dish—prepping them for dinner. Like any mother in any kitchen in any part of the world, she was humming. GETTING PERSONAL WITH THE ICELANDIC HORSE At the farm, they had horses for riding tours on the beach and on one weekend Jakobína and the two volunteers—all experienced riders—were eager

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for a ride. The girls selected younger, wilder horses, not the placid ones offered to tourists. Icelandic riding style is unique, and the Icelandic horse, which is short and stocky (its size is deceptive—it’s all muscle and force) uses a gait that keeps you bobbing helplessly and jarred if you don’t know what you’re doing. We began with a walk toward the beach, but once hooves hit sand, one of the horses began to run. The others started to follow, kicking up globs of black sand, and it was impossible to stop them. “Wait, what do I do?” I shrieked to the steady backs of my companions. My helmet tumbled over my eyes, and in the jostling I was disoriented, in a half-panic, not daring to release my death grip on the saddle or reins. “Just hold onto the saddle with both hands and don’t fall off!” Jakobína yelled. (“When did you start riding?” I asked her later, “When I was 3-monthsold,” she replied.) The ocean, reflected by the setting sun, was a baffling, shattered sheet of glass, and I just wanted to cry. We thundered across a small river; jerked at sharp angles down narrow paths; at any second I knew I could go flying into rocks and sand, and yet, I felt ridiculously alive. We thundered across a small river; jerked at sharp angles down narrow paths; at any second I knew I could go flying into rocks and sand, and yet, I felt ridiculously alive.

HOME AWAY FROM HOME When my sister joined us on the farm, I warned her about the evil cows, introduced her to the sweet

ones, and took her to the secret spots. I watched as she, too, fell in love with the land. By then, I had stopped showering immediately after milking, and like the others, gave up scrubbing my soiled clothes after every evening in the barn. It just wasn’t practical. By then, I wasn’t even bothering to change into normal clothes for a drive to the shop in Vík. “Have everything? Let’s go home,” one of the volunteers would say, and I’d nod, aware of her intended meaning, aware that I didn’t feel the same as that first day I arrived at the shop. Home meant connectedness, a sense of belonging, if even for a short time. A couple weeks later, on the morning Leilah and I bid the family farewell and left from that same Vík bus stop, I promised to return, and meant it; we still keep in contact. Leilah’s already gone back once. As we rode toward Reykjavik, homeward, past tumbling waterfalls, barren flats, mountains that led to glaciers beautifully graced by the clear blue sky, we smiled at each other. I was grateful. v SHORT SIDEBAR

For travelers interested in volunteering in Iceland, here are a few tips: -Be knowledgeable about the opportunity. Be sure the volunteer host is reputable, and have all your questions answered. I personally recommend Workaway.info, but there are other organizations such as HelpX and WWOOF. -Establish a routine. It’s easy to get thrown off when you’re out of your element, but the sooner you set aside personal time and organize your days, the better. -Most importantly, go with an open mind and respect the land, its people and their customs. With tourism at an all-time high, it’s important that we don’t tromp around ignorantly, but travel mindfully and with intelligence.

GET YOUR DESIGNER BR ANDS TA X F R E E AT K E F L AV I K A I R P O R T

Issue three 45

THE REYKJANES PENINSULA

THE PERFECT PLACE FOR A STOPOVER It’s a popular myth that the only road trip worth taking in Iceland is Route 1, aka the Ring Road, which encircles Iceland and connects most of its major towns with all the attractions conveniently located close by. Another myth is that the only day trip available is the Golden Circle, which seems to be where practically everyone is heading during their trip to Iceland. (Yes, it is worth exploring!) by Gerður Harðardóttir Photos: Visit Reykjanes

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Issue three 47

Geologically, the Reykjanes Peninsula is the youngest part of Iceland, a landscape continually changing due to the North Atlantic Ocean Ridge that rises above sea level at the tip of the peninsula and continues to pass diagonally through Iceland.

V OLCANIC WONDERLAND The Reykjanes Peninsula is probably best known for the Blue Lagoon, Iceland’s biggest tourist attraction with 919,000 people visiting last year alone. But if you think there’s nothing else to see or do in the area, think again. Admittedly it might not make much of a first impression, looking rather barren and bleak, but look closer and you will find a volcanic wonderland that is sure to enrich your experience in Iceland. Geologically, the Reykjanes Peninsula is the youngest part of Iceland, a landscape continually changing due to the North Atlantic Ocean Ridge that rises above sea level at the tip of the peninsula and continues to pass diagonally through Iceland. This is the only place in the world where you can see the world’s largest sub-ocean ridge clearly above water, plus the tectonic plates of North America and Eurasia at the same time. The two major tectonic plates are estimated to be drifting apart at the average rate of 2 cm per year and this drifting of the earth’s crust makes Reykjanes a virtual hot spot of high volcanic and geothermal activity. Driving around Reykjanes, you will come across fields of endless lava, steaming geothermal mud pools, volcanic craters and an incredible variety of terrain that at times seems otherworldly. While traveling through Reykjanes Peninsula, you will see beautiful churches, lighthouses, large colonies of migrating birds and an 18-hole golf course surrounded by lava with a spectacular ocean view. You might even enter a remote part of Reykjanes where warm steam comes drifting up from the ground around you. Although close to the most densely populated area of Iceland, in this region, certain areas can look and feel incredibly isolated, and seem like you’re standing at the edge of the world. And yet there’s something indescribably charming about this often desolate landscape. Off the shores of Reykjanes are plankton-rich seasonal feeding grounds, an important habitat for whales and dolphins, which explains why the small fishing hamlets of Sandgerði and Garður (only about 10-minutes’ drive from the airport) are two of the best places for whale watching in Iceland. If you have time to stretch your legs in between connecting flights, or before or after you head towards your planned trip in Iceland, venture into the untamed wonderland of the Reykjanes Peninsula. There are plenty of places to see and things to do. SHIP AHOY! Rent A Boat offers an authentic experience out at sea on a private boat trip that takes you along the rugged coastline of Reykjanes, exploring marine life and wild fish in its natural

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environment through special underwater binoculars. Large pods of whale and porpoises are frequently spotted in the waters off the small fishing hamlets of Sandgerði and Garður. Rent A Boat is available for private tours only and can accommodate up to six guests at a time. Each tour is tailored to the interests of your group. Visit rentaboat.is for more information or call +354 779 8272.

REYKJANES FROM ABOVE One of the best, and probably the most luxurious and exhilarating ways to see Reykjanes is by soaring above it in a helicopter, on a trip that lasts for about an hour to 1½ hours. Norðurflug Helicopter offers a tour that’s not only a great option for those interested in geology; it’s ideal for everyone who enjoys exploring the wonders of nature. Along the way, you will see colorful areas of geothermal activities and rows of craters and fissures, showing exactly how Iceland is being ripped apart by the two tectonic plates of North America and Eurasia. For more information and booking go to helicopter.is.

Photos: Rafn Sigurðsson

FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHER Iceland is visually captivating and you need to look no further than Reykjanes Peninsula to find phenomenal scenery with boundless photography opportunities. To make sure you find all the best spots to photograph, why not hire a local professional photographer/ tour operator who can take you there? Rafn Sigurðsson is a freelance photographer who combines his two passions, photography and traveling, with work assignments. Rafn’s extensive Reykjanes Peninsula Tour offers an extreme range of landscapes ideal for photography as Rafn knows all the best places to shoot. For more information, check out discoverwildiceland.com or islandsmyndir.is.

ICEWEAR offers an extensive collection of clothing for the outdoor enthusiast, ranging from high-tech down jackets to unique wool products made in Iceland. We strive to offer colors and cuts in line with the latest trends, quality materials and competitive prices.

Visit our webstore WWW.ICEWEAR.IS Enjoy the easy shopping and quick deliveries

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REYKJAVÍK AUSTURSTRÆTI 5 • VESTURGATA 4 • ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTI 2-4 • LAUGAVEGUR 1 • LAUGAVEGUR 91 OUTLET FÁKAFEN 9 OUTLET • GARÐABÆR MIÐHRAUN 4 • AKUREYRI HAFNARSTRÆTI 106 • VÍK Í MÝRDAL AUSTURVEGUR 20 49 Issue three

If you have time to stretch your legs in between connecting flights, or before or after you head towards your planned trip in Iceland, venture into the untamed wonderland of the Reykjanes Peninsula.

Photo: E. Magnússon

GEOTHERMAL SNORKEL TOUR A fun way to spend your time while visi ting Reykjanes is to do the Geothermal Snorkel Tour at Lake Kleifarvatn where you’ll get the unique opportunity of snorkeling above and around recently discovered underwater hot springs. Lake Kleifarvatn is located on the fissure zone of the Mid-Atlantic Ocean Ridge and surrounded by black sandy beaches and sculpted rock formations. The trip finis hes off with a visit to Seltún, a colorful and impressive geothermal area nearby.

skills on an Icelandic horse during your stay on the Reykjanes Peninsula, we recommend that you gallop over to Grindavík to the small family run Arctic Horses horse rental for a private and personal riding experience. If you have never mounted a horse in your life, you need not worry because you will be taught everything you need to know and move at a pace that’s comfortable for you. Your ride can last from 30 minutes up to 2 or 2 ½ hour tours in the fantastic landscape close to Grindavik.

Check out 4x4adventuresiceland.is for more information or call +354 857 3001.

GIDDY UP! If you fancy testing your equestrian

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For more information go to Dive.is, email via dive@dive.is or call +354 578 6200.

Go to arctichorses.is for more information or call +354 848 0143

For more information go to Dive.is, email dive@dive.is or call +354 578 6200.

4X4 ADVENTURES ICELAND 4x4 Adventures Iceland is based in Grindavík and they offer eight scheduled ATV Quad biking adventure trips around Reykjanes every day of the week with highly experienced guides who know the Reykjanes Peninsula like the back of their hand. No experience is needed (only a valid driving license); the ATVs are automatic and easy to drive. The most popular trips include the Panorama Tour (1 hour), Lava Beach Tour (2 hours), the Volcanic Safari Trip (6-7 hours) and the intriguing Trip to the Moon Tour, a 3 to 4-hour tour across the Reykjanes Peninsula. The various ATV trips (often to remote areas where there is little or no traffic) will take you across the diverse and different terrains of Reykjanes, through endless stretches of moss-covered lava and across pitch black sandy beaches.

you will be exploring an extensive and colorful marine life, a rich habitat for species such as scorpion fish, starfish, crustaceans, flatfish, monkfish and wolffish. A guide will be sure to introduce you to Tommi the Wolffish, who lives in a hole by the pier.

VOLCANO TOURS Of the 460 known lava caves in Iceland, 200 of them are located on the Reykjanes Peninsula alone. If exploring volcanoes and caves is your thing and you have about six hours to spare before or after your flight, then you should check out the Volcano Garden Reykjanes Tour. Arranged by Volcano Tours, you will be traveling in comfort in a luxury jeep which picks you up either at Keflavík Airport or your hotel. The tour is very relaxed and you will have ample time to explore and take photos while listening to tales of trolls, ghosts and the geological phenomena of Reykjanes Peninsula.

THE HIGHLIGHTS OF REYKJANES With only about four hours to spend after landing at Keflavík International Airport before your outbound flight leaves, and wanting to see as much of Iceland as possible in the little time you have, why not take a little road trip around Reykjanes with Travice, a local travel agency. You’ll be in the expert hands of a local driver/guide who knows the area inside out, taking you to all the major sites. This trip covers quite a lot of territory and you will be sure to see the highlights of Reykjanes, giving you a fairly good glimpse of what Iceland as a whole has to offer as a travel destination. For more information about this trip and other options, visit travice.is

For more information, go to volcano.is, email volcano@volcano.is or call +354 426 8822.

Photo: Dive.is

GO DEEPER If you have a valid scuba diving certification (PADI Open Water or the equivalent) and a couple of days to spend on the Reykjanes Peninsula, diving off the coast of Garður on the extreme tip of Reykjanes is a great way to enjoy yourself. Garður is surrounded by some of the richest fishing grounds in Iceland and nautical relics and remains are to be found all along the shore. Depending on which time of year you’re diving,

Photo: Reykjanes Seakayak

REYKJANES SEAKAYAK Few activities allow you to connect with and experience nature in closer proximity than sea kayaking. There is something indescribably magical about gliding just above sea level, surrounded by nothing but the sights and sounds of nature. Reykjanes Seakakaying offers unforgettable, guided kayaking trips as way to spend your time during a short stopover in Reykjanes. The ideal time of day to make this trip is very early in the morning or late in the evening during the golden hours when the sea is most likely to be as still as can be—the silence only broken by the sound of your paddle or the birds cooing nearby. Seakayak offers exclusive tours for only one group at a time for up to 8 people. You will be paddling past and around small inlets, reefs and amid swaying seaweed in crystal clear waters, accompanied by a knowledgeable guide. Go to www.seakayak.is for more information.

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With 95 locations around Iceland, N1 is always nearby. Find your nearest location and plan your trip at www.n1.is/en.

Issue three 51 Keep moving

THE REYKJANES PENINSULA

EATING OUT Reykjanes Peninsula offers an extensive variety of restaurants, catering to a wide price range and every taste bud. From the ever popular no-frills hot dog stand (ask for “one with everything”) to restaurants offering exquisite regional dishes, the sky really is the limit when it comes to culinary experiences in Reykjanes. by Gerður Harðardóttir Photos: From respective restaurants

GAMLA PÓSTHÚSIÐ (THE OLD POST OFFICE) Tjarnargata 26, Vogar Tel: +354 424 6800 Small and unpretentious, this restaurant is situated in the middle of the tiny town of Vogar. Don’t let the unassuming architecture and décor fool you because the food here is excellent! The restaurant serves freshly caught Arctic char and wolf fish, lamb, burgers and pizzas and more.

two lighthouses, one of them the second oldest lighthouse in Iceland, built in 1897. This summer, a small café opened in the old lighthouse and the room on the top floor gives a whole new meaning to the term panoramic view.

MAX’S RESTAURANT Norðurljósavegur 1, Grindavik Tel: +354 426 8650 nli.is

VARIETY IN REYKJANESBÆR You’ll find most of the restaurants in the town of Reykjanesbær, aka Keflavík, along Hafnargata Street, the main road passing through town, or close by. Whether you are looking for a hamburger joint (olsenolsendiner. com), a smoothie and juice bar (lemon.is), pizza parlor (fernandospizza.is), café (duus.is), Thai restaurant (thaikeflavik.is) or a restaurant serving delicious cuisine in sophisticated settings (kef.is), you will be sure to find something tasty.

FRIÐARKÚLA Skagabraut 86, Garður (right by the two lighthouses)

Photo: Brooks Walker

Photo: Vitinn

VITINN Vitatorg 7, Sandgerði Tel: +354 423 7755 www.vitinn.is Located right by the lighthouse and the busy harbor of Sandgerði, Vitinn (The Lighthouse) is a familyowned restaurant and bar serving the freshest seafood possible. Its specialty is the rock crab, a delicacy only found off the coast of Iceland and the East Coast of North America. Open every day except Sunday for lunch and dinner. If you’re traveling with a large group, you must pre-book.

Friðarkúla is a rather unorthodox “restaurant” in more ways than one. Aside from being located in a red double-decker bus with a rather hippyish décor, this place doesn’t have fixed opening hours, so you’re either in luck or not, depending on the weather or if the owners are up to having the place open. The menu is eclectic to say they least as you have the option of choosing between Pad Thai or traditional Icelandic waffles. Weather permitting, there might be a flea market going on nearby. Or then again, maybe not.

Right next to the Blue Lagoon you’ll find The Northern Light Inn and a hidden gem, the excellent Max’s restaurant. The restaurant offers a slow food menu, specializing in fresh, Icelandic produce, sourced from all over Iceland. The tender lamb is free-range, the vegetables geothermally-grown and the herring is served with a rye bread slowly baked in the hot lava fields nearby. Max’s Restaurant offers a buffet breakfast from 7-10 am, making it a perfect pit stop after landing at Keflavik Airport.

HJÁ HÖLLU (HALLA’S PLACE) Víkurbraut 62, Grindavík Tel: +354 896 5316 hjahollu.is This is the place to go to for healthy, delicious organic refreshments and ideal for traveling vegans and vegetarians. Located on the ground floor of a small shopping center next to a roundabout in the middle of Grindavík, the restaurant is a little bit difficult to spot. Grab one of Halla’s daily bag to-go as you continue on your journey around Reykjanes. The bag includes fresh juices, boosts, lunch, snack and healthy sweets. Open weekdays from 8 am-5 pm and weekends from 10 am-5 am.

BRYGGJAN (THE PIER) Miðgarður 2, Grindavík Tel: +354 426 7100

LAVA RESTAURANT The Blue Lagoon, Grindavík Tel: +354 420 8800 Bluelagoon.is Photo: Jóhann Ísberg

THE OLD LIGHTHOUSE CAFÉ The old lighthouse, Garður The small fishing hamlet Garður boasts not one but

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The Blue Lagoon’s LAVA restaurant offers a sophisticated culinary experience with only the freshest Icelandic produce on the menu.

Located right on the Grindavík harbor, with fishing boats moored outside the windows, this quaint little place is ideal for light meals such as the lobster soup served with delicious fresh homemade bread. Bryggjan is a little bit difficult to track down and was a surprise find, but so worth it. Ask the locals for directions if you get lost on your way. Open from 8 am to 10 pm.

Issue three 53

REYKJANES PENINSULA

THE REYKJANES GEOPARK The Reykjanes Geopark is one of two Icelandic geoparks recently added to the UNESCO list of geoparks, a term used for geological sites of global importance. The other geopark in Iceland is the Katla Geopark in the south of Iceland, named after Katla Volcano. by Gerður Harðardóttir Photos: Courtesy of Visit Reykjanes

eing a UNESCO global geopark is not only about geology and alluring vistas. To make it onto the UNESCO list of geoparks, each region has to offer something not found anywhere else in the world. A geopark plays an important role in communicating the story of how earth was created and how it has shap ed our lives, society and culture through a history covering 4,600 million years WHAT IS A GEOPARK? Geoparks tell us how local geology has put its mark on the lives of people living in the region; their role is to raise awareness of geo-diversity, promote protection and sustainability, point visitors to areas of unparalleled geo logical beauty and importance, support ecotourism and local culture and encourage local entrepreneurs and busi nesses to use the geopark for marketing purposes and innovations. Today there are 120 UNESCO geoparks worldwide, in 33 different countries with Reykjanes becoming the 66th European one. PERFECT FOR A DAYTRIP Reykjanes Geopark covers 829 square kilometers or 0.85% of Iceland, including all of the five municipalities located on the Reykjanes peninsula. This is an area strongly characterized by volcanic and geothermal activity and frequent earthquakes, and it’s one of the most interesting geological sites in the world, with five different volcanic regions and lava fields created as late as 1240. Series of eruptions through the centuries explain the amazing diversity in minerals found on the Reykjanes peninsula, through its geology you are able to read the geological history of the area spanning several hundred thousands of years. A day trip through Reykjanes will take you through an area where there are hundreds of open fissures and faults, craters, caves, dramatic sea cliffs, rock formations and bubbling mud pots besides a flourishing culture and an amazing spectrum of flora and fauna.

American and Eurasian tectonic plates clearly visible at the same time. The geologically significant Mid-Atlantic ridge, the longest and most extensive mountain ridge on earth, spans the entire length of the Atlantic Ocean and marks the boundaries of the American and Eurasian tectonic plates. The ridge stretches across Iceland diagonally from SW to NE and in a relatively compact area you have the unique opportunity of seeing where the N-American and Eurasian tectonic plates are drifting apart at the average rate of 2.5 cm per year. It is the shifting of these two tectonic plates that makes Reykjanes such a hot-bed of geothermal and volcanic activity. Sandvík and its Bridge Between the Continents, a small footbridge which crosses the fissure that lies between the tectonic plates, is one of 55 sites of significant importance listed as geosites on the Reykjanes peninsula, each of them directly linked to the Mid-Atlantic ridge and the two tectonic plates. Each one of those geosites not only tells the story of the unique Reykjanes geopark but how earth itself was created. v For more information visit reykjanesgeopark.is

THE UNIQUE SANDVÍK None of those things would have made Reykjanes eligible for the UNESCO list of geoparks though. What sealed its place on the UNESCO list, is found at the tip of the Reykjanes peninsula, in a remote and rather bleak part of the peninsula called Sandvík. Sandvík might not look much to you compared to what you might have seen of Iceland, not until someone points out its importance, for this is the one place in the world where you can see the 65,000 km long Mid- Atlantic ridge rise above sea level to become visible on dry land, with both of the Reykjanes Geopark Visitor Center is at the Duus Culture Centre, Duusgata 2-8, Reykjanesbær

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Issue three 55

THE REYKJANES PENINSULA

GOOD TO KNOW – WOW STOPOVER TIPS Reykjanes has many exciting travel options to offer its visitors when it comes to exciting activities and places worth exploring. Go to visitreykjanes.is or one of the four tourist information centers located in Reykjanes for more details.

Distances are relatively short on the Reykjanes Peninsula and you could easily cover the whole area in one day with enough time to see many of the major sights.

TIP 1: RENT A CAR One of the best ways to explore this fascinating region is by renting a car for a private road trip. This gives you the flexibility to tailor-make your trip and travel wherever you want at your own pace. Driving around Reykjanes gives you a fantastic glimpse into what to expect while visiting Iceland in general, minus the waterfalls. Distances are relatively short on the Reykjanes Peninsula and you could easily cover the whole area in one day with enough time to see many of the major sights. An excellent website for getting directions, driving distance and the time it takes you to get from A to B on Reykjanes Peninsula, is distancecalculator.globefeed.com. Visit reykjanes.is is also informative when it comes to locations, listing GPS coordi nates and more. Whether you are using the websites to plan your trip or relying on a GPS, make sure that your spelling is correct or a 45-minute drive might turn into a 6-hour trip to North Iceland. TIP 2: SUBMERGE Bathing admission to the Blue Lagoon is usually not included in the price of the tour you might be interested in taking during your stopover in Reykjanes. With growing popularity, it is now necessary to pre-book a visit to the Blue Lagoon (bluelagoon.com). If you don’t have a prebooking, you might have a long wait or not be able to enter the bathing facilities at all. Bear that in mind if you want to end or begin your stopover with a visit to the Blue Lagoon. With the Blue Lagoon becoming as popular as it has in recent years, a visit to one of the many excellent THE PERFECT BASE

community swimming pools around Reykjanes is an available option that’s highly recommended. In addition to geothermal goodness, you’ll get the chance to mingle with the locals. And, if you strike up a conversation, you might get to know their way of life a little bit better than you would have otherwise. There are six swimming pools to choose from on the Reykjanes Peninsula, most of them outdoors and all comfortably heated with geothermal water. What could be better than a refreshing swim before boarding your plane? Go to visitreykjanes.is for details and directions. TIP 3: TAKE A TOUR A guided tour is, of course, more informative than driving and exploring by yourself. Most tour operators in the area are flexible when it comes to pickups at the airport and returning before your departure time. Be sure to check with them before you set off, though. The rule of thumb is to check with your connecting airline before booking a tour, and ask about luggage checks-ins and the time to be at the airport. There’s a luggage storage at Kefla vík Airport if you want to leave your belongings there while you go explore the Reykjanes Peninsula. The luggage storage is located 500 m from the departure side of the airport, at Arnarvellir 4, between Enterprise and Avis. The office is open 24/7 from May 15-September 1. Many of the tours operating in the area will also handle your luggage so you can either take it with you on the tour or let them arrange a drop off at no extra cost while you are busy having fun. v

Smack down in the middle of Reykjanes Geopark, at the old NATO base, now known as Ásbrú, you’ll find the Base Hotel and hostel. A combination of hotel and hostel, this quirky gem is great for travelers on a budget who want to get a good night’s rest while exploring the Reykjanes Peninsula. With only a few minutes’ drive to Keflavik International Airport, Base Hotel is also ideal if you want to sleep a little longer the night before an early flight. Check into basehotel.com for awesome deals on accommodation but note that they’re so brand new they won’t open their doors until the beginning of July.

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DID YOU KNOW THAT IN ICELAND... you donÂ´t have to buy bottled water, but a bottle of wine is a lot cheaper at Duty Free Iceland www.dutyfree.is

Issue three 57

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The Lebowski Bar Laugavegur 20 a 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 552 2300 email: info@lebowskibar.is www.lebowskibar.is

Lebowski Bar

THE REYKJAVIK VENUE THAT ROCKS! From the entrepreneurs that brought you Café Oliver and Vegamot, comes Lebowski Bar. You can take a quick guess where the name and inspiration comes from and even if you didn’t like the infamous 1998 movie we are certain you will love this bar.

ust walking into this retro American bar puts a smile on your face and the mood is very 1960’s. You can hang out at the old fashioned porch and imagine you are in a real action movie. They don’t make bars like that anymore … oh wait they do, this one! Four big screens adorn the walls, so it’s also a great place to hang out when there are big events and sporting highlights to be seen. And there’s also an “outside” area decorated in a zappy Miami-sunshine yellow that will cheer even the dullest of days.

Dine and jive Lebowski Bar really captures the diner style with cosy booths and a fabulous jukebox containing over 1,600 songs guaranteed to get those hips swaying. If that’s not enough there’s a DJ on every night of the week so you won’t feel the pressure of selecting all the music by yourself. The menus are the biggest in Iceland … no literally! Their physical dimensions are huge! Doesn’t everyone say that size really does matter? Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarnaise sauce option and succulent beef tenderloin. If that’s not enough, choose from one of the 12 kinds of milkshakes to go with it.

“Careful man, there’s a beverage here!” Jeffrey ‘the Dude’ Lebowski, the protagonist of the Coen brother’s comedy, is renowned for his penchant for ‘White Russians’ – vodka based cocktails featuring coffee liqueurs and cream or milk. The Lebowski Bar has taken this now-iconic drink to a new level, offering an astounding 18 varieties of White Russian, along with an extensive bar list.

Bowling at the bar The real icing on the Lebowski cake, however, is the bar’s genuine bowling lane – it’s a classic. How

many bars have a bowling lane? In Iceland, not many, unless you count the bars at actual bowling alleys that certainly don’t have the cool vibe of Le bowski Bar. DJs and a bass player add to the music mix at weekends and there’s room to dance. Check it out dudes, you’re guaranteed a good time. v

Try their amazing burgers, there’s cheese, bacon, a béarn aise sauce option and succulent beef tenderloin.

Lebowski Bar is my favorite place to hang out at. I love grabbing a good beer, a burger & topping it with a delicious milkshake. Lebowski Bar plays oldies music which makes the vibe like none other in Reykjavik. They also have happy hour from 4-7pm and who doesn’t love that! Bottom line, Lebowski Bar is a great mainstream bar where you can meet fellow travelers and have a drink with locals. Practice the word ‘SKÁL’ (Cheers) ~ Inga,@TinyIceland (www.tinyiceland.com)

FIND IT ON FACEBOOK and Twitter Twitter: @LebowskiBar - Instagram: #LebowskiBar - Opening hours: 11:00 – 01:00 Sun-Thurs and 11:00 – 04:00 Fri/Sat

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Bar Ananas & SmakkBarinn Klapparstigur 38 101 Reykjavik E-mail: bookings@barco.is Tel: +354 774 4 404

A taste of summer Whatever the season, you can count on it being summer at Bar Ananas and just to make things even more interesting, they’re now offering a brand new tapas experience in a cozy establishment downstairs called SmakkBarinn.

eel the beach in the snow! Or at least have a little flashback while drinking cocktails with pineapple. Yup, it’s a beach bar in Iceland! A tropical theme designed to conquer over the cold winter. How COOL… WARM! is that? So when you don’t feel like doing that northern lights tour or going with all the other tourists into the Blue Lagoon, you can always check out the happy hour at Bar Ananas. Drink some cocktails and have the surroundings constantly reminding you of warm weather and the beach. Unique in Iceland because nobody thought it would work – well, they’ve all been proven wrong. Bar Ananas is a popular spot on the Reykjavik nightlife scene with cool DJ’s all the time. Below is a restaurant called SmakkBarinn which serves Icelandic tapas. You can even order from them and eat it at the beach. No reason to give up a good tan!

SmakkBarinn A cozy place in the heart of Reykjavík, Smakk Barinn and Bar Ananas are just a short walk from Laugavegur, Reykjavik’s main shopping street. SmakkBarinn offers tapas in jars and it’s all Ice landic with many cool combinations of food to try out. For the sake of variety, their menu changes all the time. Eating at SmakkBarinn is one thrill after another; you can taste everything on the menu without having to sell your car. All their tapas dishes are presented in jars perfect both for dining out and also just for getting a snack with some friends and still come out happy you didn’t spend a fortune on a whole meal. The next best part is the beer… Oh yeah! You can taste that too in jars. Whatever you decide to do in Iceland, you might want to try out some Icelandic tapas and party the night away at Iceland’s all season beach bar. v

SmakkBarinn offers tapas in jars and it’s all Icelandic with many cool combinations of food to try out. For the sake of variety, their menu changes all the time. Eating at SmakkBarinn is one thrill after another; you can taste everything on the menu without having to sell your car.

You’ll find both Bar Ananas and SmakkBarinn on Facebook Issue three 59

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Vegamót Vegamótastíg 4 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 511 3040 email: vegamot@vegamot .is www.vegamot .is

Very nice Vegamót

The all-in-one restaurant This elegant but casual two floor restaurant is located in the heart of Reykjavík on Vegamótastígur, close to Laugavegur.

he restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonderful quality of being an all-in-one, restaurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave! Here the decor is rich on the Mediterranean side and yet elegant with a jazzy ambiance. In the summertime tables are moved outside to the sheltered terrace, probably one of the hottest

places in Iceland during those short summer months. This place is famous for their ‘fresh fish of the day’, served all day from lunch hours. It has very reasonable prices for quality, portions and presenta tion and guests can choose from a wide variety of decadent desserts – if they make it that far. Try their excellent selection of good beers. Every day there is a special offer on bottled beers worth a taste. v

VEGAMÓT Opening hours: Mon-Thu: 11:00 am - 1:00 am Fri-Sat:11:00 am - 4:00 am Sun: 11:00 am - 1:00 am

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The restaurant has been popular for many years, perhaps because of its wonderful quality of being an all-inone, restaurant, café and bar. You‘ll never want to leave!

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Issue three 61

Promotion

Hressingarskálinn Austurstræti 20 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 561 2240 www.hresso.is facebook.com/hressingarskalinn

Coffee house, restaurant & night club Hressingarskálinn is a warm place with plenty of seating and a great location in down town Reykjavik. It’s one of the few places that open at 9 AM to serve breakfast for hungry travelers or locals. Hressingarskálinn is a big part of Reykjavík’s history; the house was built in 1802 and the restaurant was established in 1932. The house has hosted Hressingarskálinn since 1932.

itting down for a coffee has a magnetic eff ect on Iceland’s most talented artists and writers. Smokers can have a seat on a heated patio with service all day. Over the summer, this place really comes alive. The yard is completely sheltered from the wind, allowing you to enjoy food and beverages in the bright sunlight. Thursday to Sunday is usually packed with people from all over the world. It’s a great place to meet strangers for

some interesting story sharing. Live bands play on Fridays and Saturdays, guaranteeing a crowd before all the popular DJ’s hit the floor with party tunes from 01:00-04:30 AM. The menu consists of great selections and offers everything from breakfast to a fantastic dinner. Hressingarskálinn offers Icelandic food for curious visitors. You can always try the traditional Icelandic meat soup. If not, there’s lamb or the fish stew – You won’t be

HRESSINGARSKÁLINN Opening hours: Mon-Thu: 9:00 am - 1:00 am Fri-Sat: 10:00 am - 4:30 am Sun: 9:00 am - 1:00 am

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disappointed. Hressingarskálinn is stylish and old at the same time, a history well preserved. Check out Hressingarskálinn for great prices and awesome fun! v

The menu consists of great selections and offers everything from breakfast to a fantastic dinner.

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Sakebarinn Laugavegur 2 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 777 3311 www.facebook.com/Sakebarinn

The one and only choice for Sushi & Sticks …SO YOU CAN CHECK IT OFF YOUR BUCKET LIST Located in a loft on Laugavegur, the main shopping street, in one of Iceland’s oldest buildings (1886) is a great new restaurant with a great view and an amazing atmosphere called Sakebarinn. In its beautiful location, surrounded by windows that look down on Austurstræti, (an extension of Laugavegur leading to the Old Town) and up Skólavörðustígur (known for its cafés, local boutiques and art shops with native works), Sakebarinn lies in the very heart of downtown Reykjavík. In the winter you can see the Northern Lights from the balcony and in the summer, the amazing summer sunsets over the harbor.

he owners of Sakebarinn have a keen interest for the arts and crafts and a wealth of creative assets to play with. Although Sakebarinn has a strong foundation in pure Japanese cuisine the current style of the restaurant proves that the owners are not afraid to break some of the rules. To them sushi is meant to be an art form. Along with its handcrafted sushi, Sakebarinn also offers a selection of sticks and other meat courses, featuring whale and horse and anything that’s fresh and interesting that day. Why live on an island in the middle of the Atlantic if you’re not going take advantage of the natural fauna? Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and with a little something for everyone. There’s love on every plate – You will feel

it with each taste. It’s no accident that the place is named Sakebarinn. It does feature the country’s largest selection of sake and a shot before a meal can truly enhance the feel of real Japanese dining. It comes in a surprising range of flavors too, everything from really girly fruit sake to the fire spewing alcohol content of some of the more butch types; potato sake, warm and cold sake and Japanese plum wine. And then of course are the bottles that didn’t make it on to the menu because no one could read the labels and therefore no one knows what they are. Mystery sake! Sakebarinn is a place born to showcase the talents the staff have collected over the years working at their first Sushi restaurant called Sushibarinn, which is located on the first floor in the same house. A year and a wild ride later, this sushi family has incorporated a

bunch of new and talented people with some great new recipes and skills they didn’t know they had and didn’t even know existed. The walls are hand painted by them, the wine selected by them, the menu is designed by them and the place is loved by them. They also love to present food so their clients become part of their love for sushi. The look on your face is what they are aiming for, the look of enjoyment. v

Along with the local seafood, Sakebarinn also carries some more exotic things like octopus, just to keep it interesting, and a little something for everyone.

SAKEBARINN Opening hours: Mon-Sun: 5:00 pm - 11:00 pm Issue three 63

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Kol Restaurant Skólavörðustígur 40 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 517 7474 www. kolrestaurant .is

Cocktails and feel good food at Kol Restaurant BE PREPARED FOR A MEMORABLE NIGHT OUT AT KOL RESTAURANT.

ituated at Skólavörðustígur 40 in Reykja vík, Kol Restaurant’s design concept is a mixture of warm modern Icelandic feel with international touches and the furniture of designer Tom Dixon playing the central role. The restaurant is on two floors with an open kitchen and a mighty bar. Both floors are divided into spaces with cozy leather couches and a variety of different table settings. Kol Restaurant centers on the bar where the country’s best cocktail bartenders serve craft cocktails from the best ingredients available

and offer an ambitious cocktail list to begin and complete the dining experience. The selection is feel good comfort food with a twist on classic cuisine. The menu offers a variety of finger food, salads, fish, steaks and dess erts. The head chefs, Einar Hjaltason and Kári Þorsteinsson, have over 20 years of experience at Reykjavik’s best restaurants as well as work experience in several known restaurants in London, for example Le Manoir Aux Quat’ Saisons, Dabbous, Noma, 28/50 and Texture. Don’t miss out on this

KOL RESTAURANT Opening hours: Monday-Friday 11:30-23:00 / Saturday-Sunday 17:30-23:00

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brand new gem on the Reykjavik restaurant scene. This is a great place to begin a fun evening. v

Kol Restaurant centers on the bar where the country’s best cocktail bar tenders serve craft cocktails from the best ingredients available and offer an ambitious cocktail list to begin and complete the dining experience.

Juice Bar

SANDWICHES & SKYR

Lemon offers fresh, happy and healthy food from the best possible ingredients.

Need some color in your life? Come enjoy some sunshine in a glass and dance to the beat of our music. Lemon is Iceland´s #1 pick for fresh juices, gourmet sandwiches and the delicious local skyr-smoothies - all served in a relaxed, cool & casual atmosphere.

SUÐURLANDSBRAUT 4 - REYKJAVIK LAUGAVEGUR 56 - REYKJAVIK HJALLAHRAUN 13 - HAFNARFJÖRÐUR HAFNARGATA 29 - KEFLAVIK 43 RUE DES PETITS CARREAUX - PARIS EMAIL : BROSTU@LEMON.IS SITE: WWW.LEMON.IS WW #LEMONICELAND 65 Issue three

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Den Danske Kro Ingólfsstræti 3 101 Reykjavík Tel: +354 552 0070 www.dendanske.is

When in Iceland, go Danish! You know that Iceland used to be a Danish colony, right? Even though independence from the Danish Crown was necessary, Icelanders still celebrate everything Danish, so don’t expect to meet a big Danish crowd at The Danish Pub, they are all Icelanders just acting like they’re Danish. Really!

his bar has made a name for itself in the Reykjavik social scene and is known locally as Den Danske Kro (we all just want a reason to speak Danish in public). This popular downtown venue serves a remarkable selection of beers in cluding the famous Danish white beers, the darker more malt brews and of course the traditional and almost obligatory Tuborg and Carlsberg. If you come during the Christmas season you can taste some of the renowned Christmas brews, very popular in demand. Just ask for Julebryg (“you-le-bree”).

Get carefree or “ligeglad” (lee-glaath), shoot some darts, try the customary Gammel Dansk bitters or catch some live football. Watch the world go by on the outside terrace and have a taste of the tra ditional smørrebrød (fantastic open sandwiches). You can pre-order these delicious snacks for larger groups.

Does this sound too tranquil?

Do as the Danes do

The Danish Pub is nothing if not a place to party. The atmosphere is easy going and you can choose from a variety of shots and even cocktails if you’re not in the mood for a beer (Does that ever happen?).

The owners of the Danish Pub strive to create the true Danish atmosphere known among the Danes (and Danish-prone Icelanders) as “hyggeligt”. If you truly are Danish this can be your “home away from home”. And in this spirit, check out the “house” within the pub – an off-the-wall design in its most literal sense!

Reminder: If you thought you were in for a quiet night guess again, The Danish Pub features live music every night with special appearances and unadvertised happenings on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Put your musical knowledge to the

DEN DANSKE KRO Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 14:00 – 01:00 and Fri-Sat 14:00 – 05:00

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test at the Wednesday night pop-quiz; the prizes will surprise you.

Best local pub in Reykjavík Wherever you‘re from you’ll want to have a great time while visiting Reykjavík. The people of Reykja vík do anyway, so they flock to The Danish Pub for a beer “en øl” during the Happy Hour every day from 16-19. The place is crowded and you’re guaranteed to meet some fun, “lee glaath” people. v

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Kaldi Bar Laugavegur 20 b 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 581 2200 www.facebook.com/KaldiBarCafe

A breath of fresh air

Cool as Kaldi KALDI BAR IS ONE OF ICELAND’S MOST UNIQUE BARS. AN OASIS IN CENTRAL REYKJAVÍK.

t might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmosphere in a rustic setting. Besides the congenial atmosphere, there’s a great outside seating area in a cozy backyard. Known for its wide collection of local micro brews both on draft and in bottles, Kaldi Bar is very popular among locals who check in at happy hour to get their fill of the unfiltered Kaldi brew. Drop by and get to know everybody, they might even give you some good tips on how to become a local. v

Kaldi Bar is one of Iceland’s most unique bars. An oasis in central Reykjavík. It might not be spacious but it makes up for it with great relaxing atmosphere in a rustic setting.

KALDI BAR Opening hours: Sunday-Thursday: 12:00 noon - 01:00 am Friday & Saturday: 12:00 noon - very late / Price list Beer on draft 0.5 – 1,100 IKR Glass of vine – 1,200 IKR / Happy hour 16:00-19:00 / Beer on draft 0.5 – 650 IKR / Glass of vine – 650 I Issue three 67

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Kopar Restaurant Geirsgata 3 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 567 2700 www.koparrestaurant .is / info@koparrestaurant .is

Kopar Restaurant by the old harbor KOPAR RESTAURANT IS SITUATED BY REYKJAVIK‘S ROMANTIC HARBOR, IN ONE OF THE OLD GREEN FISHERMAN‘S HUTS.

he fishing industry still thrives in Reykjavik, so the old harbor is full of life. In the morning, fishermen go out to sea and return later with their catch of the day. As you stand on the pier you can feel the history of Reykjavik and watch the harbor life: fishing boats, fishermen, the catch, and young kids with their rods trying their luck off the pier. Meanwhile passersby are walking about and enjoying life. This fresh and energetic atmosphere of the old harbor is all part of the experience when you dine at Kopar. Kopar is a seafood restaurant

featuring locally caught seafood and crustaceans. They are especially proud of their crab soup, made with Icelandic rock crab from Hvalfjordur. Kopar offers a variety of Icelandic produce, including wild game, although the main emphasis is seafood, the fruit of the ocean. Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She pre pares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience. Delight yourself with great service and atmosphere,

delicious food and the best view in town. When visiting Reykjavik, enjoying a night out at Kopar is a must. v

Kopar‘s head chef, Ylfa, is a member of the gold medal winning national culinary team. She prepares the seafood in a unique and delicate manner, intent on giving you an unforgetable experience.

KOPAR RESTAURANT Opening hours: Mondays to Thursday from 11:30-22:30 - Fridays from 11:30-23:30 - Saturdays from 12:00-23:30 - Sundays from 18:00-22:30

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Brygg jan Brugghús – Bistro and Brewery Grandagarður 8 101 Reykjavik Email: booking@brygg janbrugghus.is Tel: +354 456 4040 brygg janbrugghus.is

Bryggjan Brugghús – Bistro and Brewery Bryggjan is Iceland’s first microbrewery and bistro located at the trendy Reykjavik harbor-side.

ffering delicious local food in a cool atmosphere, com plemented by world class beverages brewed on site and pumped directly from the brewery itself, Bryggjan is large enough to accommodate up to 280 guests in its fun and lively atmosphere.

The Bistro A gourmet meal served at Bryggjan Bistro is an experience to be remembered. Bryggjan Bistro offers diverse, high- quality dishes, with an emphasis on fresh seafood caught off the shores of Iceland. Also served are traditional courses carefully selected by Master Chef Margret Rikhardsdottir.

The Bar and Brewery Bryggjan produces and serves a variety of beers and carefully selected wines. The bar has 12 beer pumps pumping beer straight out of the brewery, and their custom-made wine cupboard maintains a perfect temperature for its rich selection of wines. Bergur Gunnarsson, Bryggjan’s master brewer, applies his knowledge and expertise to pairing their beers with delicacies from the kitchen while Arturo Santoni Rousselle, Bryggjan’s wine waiter, carefully selects the wines. Dominik Roman Kocon mixes cocktails with utmost care and expertise.

The Brewery Room The Brewery Room can accommodate about 100 guests, and is suitable for groups and most occasions. The room can be closed off with beautiful curtains and is equipped with a projector, and all the modern facilities required for feasts, meetings or conferences. v

Bergur Gunnarsson, Bryggjan’s master brewer, applies his knowledge and expertise to pairing their beers with delicacies from the kitchen while Arturo Santoni Rousselle, Bryggjan’s wine waiter, carefully selects the wines. Dominik Roman Kocon mixes cocktails with utmost care and expertise. BRYGGJAN BRUGGHÚS – BISTRO AND BREWERY Opening hours: 11 am – 1 am every day Issue three 69

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Reykjavik Fish Trygg vagata 8 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 578 5656 Email: info@reykjavikfish.is www.reykjavikfish.is

Reykjavik Fish In the heart of Reykjavík, right next to the old harbor, you can find Reykjavík Fish, a new restaurant offering ultra-fresh seafood. Ultra-fresh means that the fish you order today was swimming last night.

he menu at Reykjavik Fish is structured to provide hearty portions of quality sea food at very reasonable prices. The crown jewel of the menu is the spelt battered fish and chips; crispy and healthy at the same time, a perfect meal with a nice Icelandic beer. If you’re up for something a little more traditional Icelandic try the “Plokkari” (plucked fish). Their recipe is the same as used in the old days except with fresh fish of course. Perfect location and Icelandic seafood at its finest. Reykjavik Fish has plenty of seats and welcomes everyone, solo travelers and big groups

REYKJAVIK FISH Opening hours: 11 AM to 10:30 PM

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alike. When you come to Reykjavík and would like to try a nice fish and chips just look for the big red door. v

Perfect location and Icelandic seafood at its finest. Reykjavik Fish has plenty of seats and welcomes everyone, solo travelers and big groups alike. When you come to Reykjavík and would like to try a nice fish and chips just look for the big red door.

LOFTIÐ // AUSTURSTRÆTI 9 // SECOND FLOOR FACEBOOK.COM/LOFTIDBAR

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VON mathús and bar Strandgata 75 220 Hafnarfjordur Tel: +354 583 6000 E-mail: info@vonmathus.is www.vonmathus.is

VON mathús

Seasonal Icelandic cuisine with passion and enthusiasm The idea to open VON mathús could be attributed to Einar Hjaltason and Kristjana Þura Berþórsdóttir’s enthusiasm and passion to realize their dream, but location and the demand for a diverse and local food culture, also played a big part in their decision. VON mathús emphasizes seasonal Icelandic cuisine combined with ingredients that complement the each dish perfectly.

Acclaimed chef Einar Hjaltason, acclaimed and experienced chef studied at Grillið, in Hótel Saga, one of the finest dining establishments in Iceland. He also took part in the opening of the Sjávargrillið restaurant. In 2012 he set his sights on England where he facilit ated in the opening of a new fine dining restaurant by the name of Dabbous, which, only eight months after opening, received a Michelin Star. After returning to Iceland, he became a head chef at KOL restaurant on Skólavörðustígur, where he recently resigned to focus on opening VON mathús. Kristjana Þura, managing partner at VON, is born and raised in Hafnafjörður and has extensive knowledge in the restaurant- and the hotel sector of the service industry, having spent the last ten years working in both.

Homey atmosphere In 2013, when the couple discovered their first

child was on the way, it was as if Hafnafjörður called out to the young family. Shortly before the arrival of their daughter in early 2014, they’d al ready settled in. VON actually means “hope” and the family now hopes to make their mark on the food and restaurant culture in this “town in the lava.” They felt that VON was especially appropriate for the optimism that is ever present in this port town. Einar and Kristjana associate “hope“ with “fresh and healthy,“ hence they place a heavy emphasis on seafood- and sea-based ingredients and strive to use only the freshest ingredients in their dishes. The fundamental concept of VON mathús is that there is always a homey atmosphere where personal comfort and professional service are interwoven. Their hope is that this combination along with consistently great food will make every customer satisfied and delighted whenever they dine at their establishment. v

The fundamental concept of VON mathús is that there is always a homey atmosphere where personal comfort and professional service are interwoven.

VON MATHÚS AND BAR Opening hours: Tuesdays-Thursdays: 11:30-22:00 Fridays-Saturdays: 11:30-23:00 Sundays: 11:30-14:00 Mondays: Closed Happy Hour: 16:00-18:00

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Lobster & Stuff, Geirsgata 3. By the old harbour in downtown Reykjavik Open from 11:30am – every day of the week.

VerbúÐ Lobs L obst ter er

tuf ff f Æ sstu

! i est.1913

WE LOVE LOBSTER AND Hall& Oates Lobster & Stuff specializes in different delicious lobster courses. Enjoy our classic but-alway-so-insanely-good-lobster-soup, grilled or panfried lobster tails as well as our popular lobster sandwich or the lobster dumplings and tempura on the bar menu.

But we also love other gourmet stuff like our decadent dry aged rib-eye-burger, the 2die4-beefcarpaccio, fantastic fish&chips and of course the basic but brilliant “catch-of-the-day” fish specialty.

Fantastic for lunch, great for dinner ...or just drop by for drinks at the bar. ...and we take much pride in the rock´n´ roll fact that The Sugarcubes used the house to rehearse from 1986-1987!

want to book a table? tel. + 354 552 0011 verbud11 is • verbud11@verbud11 is verbud11.is verbud11@verbud11.is

VERBÚÐ 11

VERBUD11 Issue three 73

Promotion

Gamla Vínhúsið / The Old Winehouse Vesturgata 4, 220 Hafnarfjordur Laugavegur 73, 101 Reykjavik Tel: +354 565 1130 in Hafnarfjordur Tel: +354 565 1188 in Reykjavik E-mail: gamlavinhusid@gamlavinhusid.is gamlavinhusid.is

The Old Winehouse Located in the heart of Hafnarfjordur, Gamla Vínhúsið— also known as The Old Winehouse—is a family owned restaurant known for its good food, good prices and friendly services.

he Old Winehouse is situated in one of Hafnarfjordur’s oldest houses, now over 135 years old, infusing a historical undertone to a cozy atmosphere. The proprietors of the Old Winehouse pride themselves in their steaks which go the gamut from minke whale and horse fillets to more traditional lamb and beef steaks. The restaurant prepares freshly caught fish from local fishermen, serving both Icelandic cod and salmon.

A night to remember Make the most of your stay. After enjoying a dinner at the Old Wine house, you can relax in the cozy bar on the second floor. The bar has exceptional service and a great selection of wine, spirits and beer, plus you will probably meet some friendly locals while you’re there, turning it into a night to remember. The Old Winehouse has spread the taste of Iceland to a new location. Now you can visit the new version of the Old Winehouse on Laugavegur in Reykjavik’s center. v

The proprietors of the Old Winehouse pride themselves in their steaks which go the gamut from minke whale and horse fillets to more traditional lamb and beef steaks.

GAMLA VÍNHÚSIÐ / THE OLD WINEHOUSE Opening hours: Reykjavik I Mondays-Tuesdays: 17:00 – 22:00 I Fridays: 17:00 – 23:00 I Saturdays: 18:00 – 23:00 I Sundays: 18:00-22:0 Hafnarfjörður I Mondays-Tuesdays: 12:00 – 21:00 I Fridays: 12:00 – 22:00 I Saturdays: 18:00 – 22:00 I Sundays: 18:00-21:00

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CO N N EC T I N G T H E CO N T I N E N T S

WOW I S IN THE AIR! 76

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Berlin Warsaw Amsterdam DĂźsseldorf Paris Frankfurt Salzburg Milan Lyon

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wowair.com

Issue three 77

WOW DESIGN

READ ALL ABOUT IT by Gerður Harðardóttir

Iceland, unlike the other Scandinavian countries, doesn’t boast world-renowned and well-established design traditions or icons. Up until recently things were relatively quiet on the Icelandic design scene, with only a handful of professional designers able to make a name for themselves’ in its small and rather unsophisticated domestic market. Today things are rapidly changing, with the thriving and ever increasing design scene blossoming into a dynamic industry—one that demands attention and recognition on a grander scale than ever before. Something that the Icelandic design scene has acutely lacked, and eagerly waited for, is an outlet to critically discuss, analyze and introduce, in depth, Icelandic design and architecture as it is at its best. Launched during last year’s DesignMarch*, HA magazine, an interdisciplinary magazine on Icelandic design and architecture, fills that gap to a tee. HA is published bi-annually by the nine associations that together form Iceland Design Center and offers well-written articles and interviews in English and Icelandic with captivating photos. This makes HA a highly visual, top quality magazine equally aimed at professionals and design enthusiasts. The magazine covers every field of design and architecture, from urban planning to fashion, to product and jewelry design, just to name a few. It’s third and latest issue features materials as diverse as an article written by philosopher/writer Gunnar Hersveinn on the connection between creation/design and happiness, an interview with the designers and entrepreneurs of creative wool design Vík Prjónsdóttir, who together work on creating high-quality wool products inspired by Icelandic myths and stories, as well as an article from Finnish design strategist Marco Sternberg, who writes about redesigning governments and how small countries like Iceland have the advantage in the context of innovating governments. HA magazine is available in all Eymundsson bookstores in Iceland (including the one at Keflavik Airport) as well as in most design stores in Reykjavik, such as Epal, Kraum, Hrím, Reykjavik Art Museum and the National Gallery of Iceland. v

For more information go to ha-mag.is *DesignMarch is Iceland’s most important design festival, organized by Iceland Design Center in March each year, with designers and architects showcasing their latest and best, in and around Reykjavik.

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AQUARACER CALIBRE 5

Cristiano Ronaldo is born to break all the records. His motivation is to win at every occasion to challenge the human statistics. Like TAG Heuer, Ronaldo surpasses the limits of his ďŹ eld and never cracks under pressure.

Issue three 79

Laugavegi 15 & Kringlunni - 511 1900 - www.michelsen.is

THE VIÐEY HOUSE

THE MONKS, THE TREASURER, YOKO ONO AND YOU Viðey is an island just outside of Reykjavik’s harbor. Of the few buildings on the island, one is Viðeyjarstofa, or Viðey House, the first building constructed of stone in Iceland and one of the country’s oldest buildings. It was designed by Danish architect Nicolai Eigtved who also designed the Amalienborg Palaces in Copenhagen where the Danish Queen lives. by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: Kristinn Magnússon

Seeing the old buildings and dis covering Viðey’s history, creates the sensation of returning to the 18th century… yes, almost like going back to the Danish colonial era in Iceland with the typical old Danish estate architecture of that time. And then there’s of course the nature; the song of the birds, the breeze, the tranquility. HOME OF THE FATHER Viðey House was built between 17531755 as the official residence of the treasurer, Skúli Magnússon, a renowned Enlightenment reformer of Iceland and often called “the Father of Reykjavík”. Since then, a lot of water has run to sea, as we say in Iceland. Today Reykjavík City owns the Viðey House which has been renovated by architect Þorsteinn Gunnarsson and serves as a part of the Reykjavík City Museum (www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is). In the basement there is a historic display but on the main floor you can enjoy

WOW Power to the people

delicious food at the restaurant located in the house and experience the special atmosphere. Since the house was built it’s been used for meetings, conferences, birthday parties, wedding parties... concerts... You name it. MONKS AND THE DANISH INVADERS Viðey Church stands next to Viðey House. It was consecrated in 1774 and is one of Iceland’s oldest churches. There you can see its original interior fittings—another feature that will bring you back to the Danish colonial era. Also on the island are the remains of a small village from the 20th century. The island has been inhabited almost since the settlement of Iceland around 900 AD. A monastery was founded there in 1255, and monks lived there from then until it was raided by Danish soldiers in 1538 when the Reformation was imposed on the Icelandic church. After that, Viðey belonged to the royal estate of Bessastaðir for two centuries. It’s

worth mentioning that today Bessastaðir (also built in the Danish architectural style) is the official residence of the president of Iceland. A PLACE OF PEACE Another significant feature on the island is the Imagine Peace Tower. Yoko Ono had this built to honor her late husband John Lennon and to symbolize their quest for peace. Each year, the Imagine Peace Tower is re-lit in a ceremony on October 9, Lennon’s birthday, and you can see its beam of light reaching into the sky—up to 4000 meters on a clear night. It is turned off on December 8, the day Lennon died. Other art forms found on the island are the Milestones, sculptures by the artist Richard Serra. There’s a lot to experience on Viðey Island. Feel the atmosphere from the 18th century, hold your wedding celebration there, imagine peace as you gaze upon the light in the sky, feel the breeze and feel the tranquility. v

Today Reykjavík City owns the Viðey House which has been renovated by architect Þorsteinn Gunnarsson and serves as a part of the Reykjavík City Museum (www.reykjavikcitymuseum.is).

HÚSAVÍK 2O16 BOOK NOW !

“Amazing experience with friendly and professional staff” “Nice and educational tour”

CHING T A W H A LE W W H ALES

FFINS U P &

tEL: +354 464 3 999 - email: info @ salkawhalewatching.is Issue three 81

ODDSSON

A BRAND NEW HOTEL AND HOSTEL EXPERIENCE BY THE OCEAN For a new experience in accommodations, ODDSSON is an unusual combination of a hotel and hostel, creating a cool, offbeat and innately honest atmosphere close to Reykjavik’s center.

Located in the popular west end of the city, in the iconic JL House with a spectacular view of the Faxaflói Bay, ODDSSON opened its doors this spring offering accommodations for up to 240 people on three of the JL House’s five floors. Combining traditional and unusual sleeping arrangements, from hostel rooms to luxurious suites, ODDSSON’s goal is to cater to all types of travelers, from budget backpackers to guests who want more privacy and a view of the ocean and Snæfellsjokull Glacier but still want to experience the fun hostel atmosphere. “Reykjavik’s west end is not your typical tourist neighborhood and very close by

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is Grandi, an up-and-coming area that’s starting to teem with small independently owned businesses, museums, cafés and restaurants. The seaside is brilliant for taking walks and the Vesturbæjarlaug and Neslaug geothermal swimming pools are close by, as is the University Movie Theater. This is a place where locals like to hang out,” says Kristín Ólafsdóttir, hotel manager at ODDSSON. SOUL FOOD Decorated with its own unique furniture as well as masterpieces from worldknown designers, ODDSSON is more than just aesthetically pleasing, it satis fies the soul in many ways. At ODDSSON,

you’ll find unusual services and other things that you can’t find anywhere else such as the hot tub on the roof, the lost luggage program, the ODD tours, art, photography and pottery classes and much more. On the ground floor there’s a first class Italian restaurant, offering great food to eat in or take away, a unique karaoke room and a cool bar that will make any occasion feel more festive. “Combining the qualities and options of a hotel and hostel is becoming an increasingly popular concept abroad but we still consider ODDSSON as one-of-kind. The overall look and feel is designed by Döðlur, a creative company based in Reykjavik, who conceived

ODDSSON

this lively fusion of a hostel with hotel service, which attracts a diverse group of guests creating a fun and unusual atmosphere,” says Kristín. GOOD FOR THE ENVIRONMENT ODDSSON is not just about the atmos phere, it’s also about the environment and the community. Almost all the interior at ODDSSON is recycled; bedding and towels are 100% organic; all cleaning materials are environmentally friendly and allergy free and all waste

ODDSSON is not just about the atmosphere, it’s also about the environment and the community.

For more information and reservations go to www.oddsson.is

is sorted and recycled, if possible. Food left by guests is donated as well as any clothes and outerwear. SPACE FOR ALL TYPES At ODDSSON, you can choose from many different types of accommodation. From 12, 8, 6 and 4 people hostel style rooms, two and three people rooms, luxury rooms with shared bathrooms and one of the most impressive luxury suites in Iceland. All rooms are spacious and guests have a view of either the Faxaflói

Bay or Reykjavik’s west side. Guests will no doubt enjoy the communal kitchen where they can cook their own meals and maybe even swap great travel recipes with each other. ODDSSON also has a yoga room, offering classes up to three times a day as well as other fun activities such as morning disco and midnight card games. ODDSSON is truly an option for thrifty travelers with expensive taste, who care about the environment and other people. Visiting Reykjavík has never looked so good or felt so right. v

All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890 SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL:

• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788 • Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is Issue three 83

TAKE A HIKE

FESTIVE PATHS IN THE EAST Víknaslóðir are deserted coastal inlets between Borgarfjörður eystri and Seyðisfjörður in East Iceland. The inlets used to be populated but some hundred years ago, changes in fishing and agriculture caused people to move, mostly to the nearby villages of Seyðisfjörður and Borgarfjörður eystri and the area in between has now become a haven for hikers and nature lovers. Text and photos: Einar Skúlason

A Located up in the northeast corner of Iceland, it is about as far away as possible from Reykjavík, that you get on the island, and totally worth the trip. The landscape there is beautiful with light and dark colored rhyolite mountains, grassy and sometimes snowy hills, many coves and, of course, the sea. For some reason, it seems that the people that lived in Víknaslóðir told more tales of hidden people, elves and dwarfs than in any other area of Iceland (not that there was any shortage of similar stories elsewhere). FOLLOW THE SOUND OF MUSIC Ten years ago, local musicians decided to establish a music festival in an abandoned fish factory in Borgarfjordur eystri. The festival, known as Braedslan, now held in July every year, turned out to be a huge success. 2000-3000 guests attend each year, despite there only being around 800 tickets issued for the main concert. There are numerous options to hike in Víknaslóðir as they have around 140 km of marked trails as well as numerous unmarked options and despite the beauty of the area, not so many people hike there in the summer. If you want to hike and to end up at the festival, we recommend a hike from Seyðisfjordur to Borgarfjordur eystri in two days on the old trails. HIKING TOWARDS FUN Start by crossing Hjalmardalsheidi Heath, which is a bit steep for the first two hours but the trail is good, so that helps. If the rain has been pouring down, you might need to wade one or two rivers on your way but otherwise, you can step on stones to cross them.

Mountain Gunnhildur in Loðmundarfjörður.

The trail takes you to Lodmundarfjordur where you can spend the night at the new Klyppsstadur lodge which is operated by The Touring Club of Fljotsdalsherad. The lodge has a self-catering kitchen, toilets, showers and sleeping bag accommoda tions in a big room and a hall. The camping ground outside is also quite nice. Check beforehand to make sure accommoda tions are available (www.egilsstadir.is/ ferdafelag). On the next day, head past the old farm of Stakkahlid towards Kaekjuskord Pass and down Kaekjudalur Valley where you walk by the cathedral of the hidden people. If you are there on a Sunday, you might even notice them going to church. Just below the valley you will see a big stone which is the home of a dwarf that once tried to kidnap a woman from a nearby

farm. Just before you get to the road, there is a river you might have to wade across. (A flood destroyed a small bridge there two years ago.) From there, walk the 10 km gravel road to Borgarfjörður eystri. THE ROUTE By taking this suggested route you will have to rely on some outside help as the starting point is a 5-10 km distance from the village of Seydisfjordur and the end point is 10 km from the village of Borgar fjordur eystri. v

GPS track for day 1: http://is.wikiloc. com/wikiloc/view. do?id=2714616 GPS track for day 2: http://is.wikiloc. com/wikiloc/view. do?id=11874830

Sunset in Borgarfjordur East.

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More info: www.borgarfjord ureystri.is/things-to-do/ hiking-walking

Experience the wonders of Vatnajökull glacier

Ice Climbing “Unforgettable experience”

Glacier Walks

“A must do while in Iceland” t Hali We are a

Jökulsárlón

BOOK www.glacieradventure.is info@glacieradventure.is NOW! Tel:+354 571-4577 HOW TO BOOK? info@glacieradventure.is www.glacieradventure.is #glacieradventure +354 571 4577

Issue three 85

SEA MONSTERS ON THE ROAM

WATCHING WHALES IN THE MIDNIGHT SUN If continental Europe were a medieval manuscript, then Iceland would have been one of those strange and beguiling creatures found on the margins. Placed on a medieval map, Iceland, formally known as Thule, would be at the edge of the world, where one could find sea monsters and various other horrid beasts surrounding it. By Marvin Lee Dupree Photos: iStockphoto.com

Photo: iStockphoto.com / mlharing

Photo: iStockphoto.com / Vojtech Soukup

Photo: iStockphoto.com / Fyletto

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In those days it was not so uncom mon for people to believe that whales were otherworldly creatures, even demonic at times and, of course, to consider them a grave threat. Yet, in Iceland, itself “hvalreki,” or a when a whale was beached, is an expression indicating a sign of great fortune, because in the old days a beached whale provided famished Icelanders with a great supply of food which was often a very scarce commodity. Nowadays, generally speaking, whales have a more agreeable reputation, while also being off the menu so to speak. And far from being a mysterious island, Iceland has become a lauded desti nation for whale From Húsavík, watching, while you will enjoying the bragg sail in the ing rights of having Skjálfandaflói a hip capital where Bay, a safe it is also possible haven for to go on a whale numerous watching tour. whale species Still, if you want including humpback and to explore more of Iceland and see blue whales, different species of the largest whales such as blue animals in the whales, sei whales, world. sperm whales or even a humpback, it might be a good idea to take a short trip to the north of Iceland, a hub for whale watching activity, and take advantage of the tours offered there. AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD WITH WHALES In Akureyri, the second largest “city” of Iceland (population ca. 18,200), you can experience the majestic nature of Eyjafjörður, which is part of the migratory route of whale species such as humpbacks. Should you choose to go whale watching in Akureyri, you can go with Ambassador Whale Watching. This family run business utilizes a former Germany ferry and the groovy interior is not what you expect on a typical

whale watching boat. Besides having a truly astounding success rate of whale spotting—100% last summer—this operator offers tours to the wonderful island of Grímsey which lies at the edge of the Artic Circle and is the northern most inhabited area of Iceland, with a population of eighty souls. While on tour you will be treated to savory dish of freshly caught fish in this wonderfully scenic spot. Between Akureyri and Dalvík, you can take a tour with Hauganes Whale Watching which also happens to be, according to many, the birthplace of whale watching in Iceland. This famous area is also the location of the most-bloody battle of Iceland’s history during the Sturlunga era in the mid-thirteenth century. Still, the official whale watching capital of the world is Húsavík where you will discover four different whale-watching operators: Gentle Giants, Húsavík Adventures, Norðursigling and Salka. You will also find the the Húsavík Whale Museum and the University of Iceland’s Research Center (researching marine biology) in Húsavík, so who knows, maybe one day they will change the name to Hvalvík (Whale Bay). From Húsavík, you will sail in the Skjálf andaflói Bay, a safe haven for numerous whale species including humpback and blue whales, the largest animals in the world. For the more adventurous tourist, Húsavík Adventures and Gentle Giants offer tours on rib boats, while Salka and Norðursigling offer tours on beautifully refurbished boats, which Gentle Giants also offers along with sea-angling tours included in the whale watching trips. Beside the wonderful marine life, there is a myriad variety of bird species in the vicinity, including, unsurprisingly, puffins, since you will sail near the aptly named Lundey (Puffin Island). No matter where you choose to go, don’t miss out on an opportunity to see these stunning creatures in their natural habitat while basking in the midnight sun. v

THIS IS IT 2016 WELCOME

WHALE WATCHING • HÚSAVÍK • ICELAND

S ALLS INA IGIN RIG OR EO TTH HE Visit The Gentle Giants

up north in Húsavík – The Whale Watching Capital of Iceland “Amazing experience!” May 28th 2016 We had one of the most amazing experiences thanks to Gentle Giants. Our trip to Iceland was one awesome thing after an other but this one took the golden prize. We weren’t to sure of what to expect and we thought we might just see a whale far away in the distance. Boy we’re we wrong!! The captain (nothing short of a genius!) and our tour guide showed us an amazing time where we got to see (upclose!) 3 humpback whales and 1 minky. We got specially lucky when one of the humpbacks decided to “play” with us for a while. It was a breathtaking moment! If you’re planning on visiting the north of Iceland, you definitely must come to Husavik and take a tour with Gentle Giants.

“Absolutely stunning. The perfect experience! ” May 20th 2016 I can’t say enough good things about Gentle Giants. The staff are welcoming, knowledgeable, fun, and are absolutely respectful of the whales. We had such an amazing experience, too! We saw at least 3-4 different whales and at least 2 came right up to our boat! Whale watching is exciting and seeing the whales never gets old--and our tour guide was just as excited as we were! You can definitely tell that these guys are passionate about what they do. Loved it! Akureyri

150 YEARS OF FAMILY HISTORY IN THE BAY

Húsavík

Reykjavík

Tel. +354 464 1500 · www.gentlegiants.is · info@gentlegiants.is

Issue three 87

HÚSAVÍK

MEMBER OF ICEWHALE – THE ICELANDIC WHALE WATCHING ASSOCIATION

THE VATNAJÖKULL REGION

THE LAND OF ICE AND FIRE In the Vatnajokull Region you’ll find the real reason why Iceland is called Iceland. The area is dominated by Vatnajokull Glacier, which is the largest glacier in the world outside the Arctic regions. There you’ll also find some of Iceland’s most popular tourist attractions such as the spectacular Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon, Skaftafell, the jewel of Vatnajokull National Park and Hvannadalshnukur, the highest peak in Iceland and a popular hike.

The Vatnajokull Region is full of contrasts, with its black beaches, white glaciers, red volcanoes, green birch forest and the blue Atlantic Ocean. Grandeur, serenity and the forces of nature combine to make a visit to the Vatnajokull Region a never-to-be-for gotten experience. Wildlife is rich in the Region of Vatnajokull with thousands of migrating birds such as puffins and the Arctic tern passing through, especially in spring and summer. Herds of reindeer are also a common sight and if you’re lucky you’ll spot a seal at Jokulsarlon or an Arctic fox running through the land. You will also find dozens of companies that offer all sorts of activities year round, diverse accommodation and great rest aurants with local food. The Region of Vatnajökull is in South east Iceland and includes over 200 km of the Ring Road from Lómagnúpur in the west to Hvalnes in the east. It covers the accessible southern side of Vatnajökull National Park, and photo enthusiasts find the realm of Vatnajökull particularly delightful as it provides countless magnificent views of the glaciers and mountains in the 24-hour daylight of the summertime. The Vatnajökull Region offers a wide range of experienced guid es and photographers who can take you to the picture perfect spot! THE TOWN OF HÖFN The only town in the area, Höfn is a lively fishing town with a population of 1,800. Höfn is additionally known as Iceland’s one and only lobster capital with its complement of lovely restaurants offering this precious product as well as various other local specialties year-

WOW Power to the people

The Vatnajokull Region is full of contrasts, with its black beaches, white glaciers, red volcanoes, green birch forest and the blue Atlantic Ocean.

For more information go to www.visitvatnajokull.is

round. Höfn is also a great base for exploring the magnificent Vatnajökull National Park and be sure to drop by the park’s visitor center in the beautiful historical building, Gamlabúð, by the harbor. TASTE OF VATNAJOKULL Within the Vatnajökull Region lies a wealth of food producers that are using the fresh water from Vatnajökull to produce fresh, pure ingredients for the area’s local restaurants. Visit this beautiful area and experience local food straight from the producers. Along with its lobster or langoustine, the region also offers other fresh ingredients such as vegetables, farm fresh ice cream as well

as meat products. The restaurants use these pure ingredients, which provide a great way for guests to get a taste of the Vatnajokull region. ACTIVITY, ACCOMMODATION AND RESTAURANTS Much of the activity in the Region of Vatnajökull revolves around the glacier and the nature around it. You can choose between glacier walks and ice climbing, a thrilling snowmobile ride on Vatnajökull or a comfortable tour of this mighty glacier in a super jeep. The area also offers ATV tours and geothermal baths at Hoffell, reindeer excursions, a visit to the Thorbergssetur Cultural Museum, a local mineral stone collection, the local handicraft store, the petting zoo at Hólmur and much more. There are various possibilities in accommodations and you’ll be sure to find a warm welcome by knowledgeable hosts. Several restaurants are in the area and most of them offer dishes made with local ingredients. Be sure to ask for the local beer Vatnajökull, brewed from icebergs from Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon and the locally sourced Arctic thyme. ACCESSIBLE YEAR ROUND The Vatnajökull Region is well accessible all year due to good weather conditions and frequent transportation. Eagle Air has a daily flight from Reykjavík to Höfn Airport during the summertime and five days a week during other seasons. Buses between Reykjavík and Höfn (Strætó) are scheduled daily throughout the year. There are also three car rental companies in Höfn. v

Issue three 89

s Declaration Fo

The U.S. Custom

This Space For Official Use Only

U.S. Cu

Customs Declaration

FORM APPROVED OMB NO.1651-0009

19 CFR 122.27, 148.12, 148.13, 148.110, 148.111, 1498; 31 CFR 5316

What is this and why do I need to fill this out? Before you arrive in the U.S., you will need to fill out the US Customs Declaration Form. If you‘re traveling with your family only the head of the family needs to fill out the form. When you arrive on US soil you will hand this form to the U.S. Customs agent. If you’re traveling with fruits we recommend disposing of them before or during your flight to the U.S. but what happens if you answer yes to any of the questions? It’s not as terrible as you might think and being truthful will save you a lot of trouble and a fine of up to $300. See page 90 for more information on answering YES.

Each arriving traveler or responsible family member must provide the following information (only ONE written declaration per family is required). The term "family" is defined as "members of a family residing in the same household who are related by blood, marriage, domestic relationship, or adoption." 1 Family Name First (Given) 2 Birth date

MAGNUSSON HAKON Month 0 2

VALUR Year 8 0 2

Middle Day

1 7

3 Number of Family members traveling with you 4 (a) U.S. Street Address (hotel name/destination)

BOSTON HARBOR HOTEL 70 ROWES WHARF (c) State MA BOSTON Passport issued by (country) ICELAND Passport number A0182382 Country of Residence ICELAND FRANCE ~ SPAIN Countries visited on this (b) City

5 6 7 8

trip prior to U.S. arrival

9 Airline/Flight No. or Vessel Name

Français Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Qu’est-ce que c’est et pourquoi dois-je en remplir un ? FR: Avant votre arrivée aux États-Unis, vous devrez remplir le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine. Si vous voyagez avec votre famille, seul le chef de famille doit le remplir. Lorsque vous arrivez sur le sol américain, vous donnez ce formulaire aux autorités douanières américaines. Si vous voyagez avec des fruits, nous vous recommandons de les jeter avant ou pendant votre vol vers les États-Unis mais que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « oui » à l’une de ces questions ? Ce n’est pas aussi terrible que ça en a l’air et dire la vérité vous évitera pas mal d’ennuis et une amende pouvant aller jusqu’à 300 $. Consultez la page 90 pour obtenir plus d’informations si vous répondez « OUI ».

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WW-125

10 The primary purpose of this trip is business:

Pour remplir ce formulaire, utilisez uniquement des majuscules. Si vous faites une erreur, notre personnel vous donnera un nouveau formulaire. Chaque voyageur entrant ou chef de famille entrant doit fournir les informations suivantes (UNE SEULE déclaration par famille) 1. Nom, Prénom, Initiale du deuxième prénom.

(a) fruits, vegetables, plants, seeds, food, insects:

Yes

(b) meats, animals, animal/wildlife products:

Yes

(d) soil or have been on a farm/ranch/pasture:

Yes

12 I have (We have) been in close proximity of livestock: Yes

x x x x x

Yes

(such as touching or handling) 13 I am (We are) carrying currency or monetary instruments over $10,000 U.S. or foreign equivalent: (see definition of monetary instruments on reverse) 14 I have (We have) commercial merchandise:

(a) Adresse Aux États-Unis (Destination ou nom de l‘hôtel) (b) Ville (c) Etat

5. Lieu de délivrace du passeport (nom du pays) 6. Numéro de passeport 7. Pays de résidence

The tra the amo States of both) Custom Moneta bearer bonds. instrum file the carrying instrum prosecu YOU H MADE A

Descrip

(List may

(articles for sale, samples used for soliciting orders,

2. Date de naissance Jour/Mois/Année. 3. Nombre de personnes voyageant avec vous.

Yes

11 I am (We are) bringing

U.S. Cu United officers persona examin dignified Repres are ava Importa U.S. Re are Visitors rem Declare do Duty— en the of ab Agricul ag Fr bir de Cu W su Contro genera

or goods that are not considered personal effects)

15 RESIDENTS—the total value of all goods, including commercial merchandise I/we have purchased or acquired abroad, (including gifts for someone else but not items mailed to $ the U.S.) and am/are bringing to the U.S. is: VISITORS—the total value of all articles that will remain in the U.S., including commercial merchandise is:

0 0

Read the instructions on the back of this form. Space is provided to list all the items you must declare. I HAVE READ THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE REVERSE SIDE OF THIS FORM AND HAVE MADE A TRUTHFUL DECLARATION.

Hákon Valur Magnússon

Signature

01/26/2016

Date (month/day/year)

CBP Form 6059B (04/14)

PAPERW sponsor informati number this app commen Border P Washing

8. Pays visités pendant ce voyage avant l‘arrivée aux aux Etats-Unis 9. Ligne aérienne / numéro du vol / Nom de vaisseau 10. Vous vouages our raison d‘affaires: OUI/NON 11. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs de (a) fruits, plantes, produits alimentaires, insectes: OUI/NON (b) viandes, animoux, produits provenant d‘animaux ou d‘animoux sauvages: OUI/NON (c) agents pouvant causer des maladies, cultures cellulaires, escargots: OUI/NON (d) terre. J‘ai / Nous avons visité une exploitation agricole en dehors des Etats-Unis: OUI/NON 12. J‘ai / nous avons touché ou traité du bétail: OUI/NON 13. Je suis / nous sommes porteurs d‘espèces ou d‘instruments monétaires d‘une valeur équivalente en monnaie des États Unis ou de tout autre pays (Voir définition d‘instruments monétaire au verso) á plus de 10 000$ US: OUI/NON 14. Je suis / nous sommes en possession de marchandises commerciales (articles des tinés à la vente, échantillon de démonstration ou tout autre article autresque des effets personnels): OUI/NON 15. Résidents - la valeur totale des biens, y compris la marchandise commerciale, que j’ai/nous avons achetés ou acquis à l’étranger (y compris les cadeaux pour une autre personne, mais pas les articles envoyés aux États-Unis) et que je/ nous rapportons aux États-Unis est de : montant en USD Visiteurs - La valeur totale de tous les articles qui resteront aux États-Unis, y compris la marchandise commerciale est de : USD Signez sur la ligne pour déclarer que votre déclaration est véridique.

Deutsch Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Was ist das und warum muss ich dieses Formular ausfüllen? GER: Vor der Ankunft in den USA müssen Sie das Formular der US-Zollerklärung ausfüllen. Wenn Sie mit Ihrer Familie unterwegs sind, braucht nur das Familienoberhaupt dieses Formular ausfüllen. Wenn Sie US-Boden betreten, übergeben Sie dieses Formular dem US-Zoll. Wenn Sie auf Ihrer Reise Obst mit sich führen, empfehlen wir Ihnen, dies vor oder während dem Flug in die USA zu entsorgen. Aber was geschieht, wenn Sie eine dieser Fragen mit Ja beantworten? Das ist nicht so schrecklich, wie Sie vielleicht denken, und Ehrlichkeit spart Ihnen eine Menge Ärger und eine mögliche Geldstrafe von bis zu 300$. Siehe Seite 90 für weitere Informationen zur Antwort JA.

Bitte verwenden Sie beim Ausfüllen dieses Formulars nur Großbuchstaben. Falls Sie einen Fehler machen wird Ihnen unsere Crew ein neues Formular geben. Jeder ankommende Reisende bzw. jedes verantwortliche Familienmitglied muss die folgenden Angaben machen (es ist pro Familie nur EINE schriftliche Erklärung erforderlich) 1. Familienname, Vorname, Zweiter Vorname 2. Geburtsdatum / Tag/Monat/Jahr 3. Anzahl der mit Ihnen reisenden Familienmitglieder 4.

(a) Adresse/genaue Anschrift in den USA (Name des Hotels/Reiseziel) (b) Stadt (c) Staat

11. Ich (wir) führen folgende Waren ein: (a) Früchte, Pflanzen, Lebensmittel, Insekten: JA/NEIN (b) Fleisch, Tiere, Tier- oder Wildprodukte: JA/NEIN (c) Krakheitserreger, Zellkulturen, Schnecken: JA/NEIN (d) Erde, oder waren Sie auf einem Bauernhof/einer Ranch/Weide: JA/NEIN 12. Ich war (wir waren) in unmittelbarer Nähe von Vieh/Nutztieren (z.B. Anfassen oder Umgang damit): JA/NEIN 13. Ich führe (wir führen) mehr als $US 10,000 in Bargeld oder Zahlungsmitteln oder den Gegenwert in anderen ausländischen Währungen mit (Siehe die Definition von Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN 14. Ich führe (wir führen) kommerzielle Waren mit. (Verkaufsware, Muster zur Werbung von Aufträgen oder Artikel, die nicht als Gegenstände zum persönlichen Gebrauch gelten): JA/NEIN 15. US-Bürger - der Gesamtwert aller Waren, einschließlich Handelswaren die ich/wir erworben habe(n) oder im Ausland erworben habe(n) (einschließlich Geschenke für andere, nicht aber Sendungen in die USA) und in die USA einführe(n) lautet: Betrag in US-$ Besucher - der Gesamtwert aller Artikel einschließlich Handelswaren, die in den USA verbleiben ist: $ Auf der Linie unterschreiben, um zu erklären, dass Sie eine wahrheitsgemäße Erklärung abgeben.

5. Pass ausgestellt von (Land) 6. Passnummer 7. Ständiger Wohnsitz (Land) 8. Auf dieser Reise besuchte Länder vor Ihrer Ankunft in den USA 9. Fluggesellschaft/Flugnummer oder Name des Schiffes 10. Der Hauptanlass dieser Reise ist geschäftlich: JA/NEIN Issue three 91

aration Form

s Decl The U.S. Custom

What happens if you say “YES”? Sometimes we just want to avoid trouble and think that saying NO to everything will make things easier. That’s not the case and in fact, it can even cause more problems, delays and even fines. Be truthful on your Customs Declaration form and all will be good. Worst case scenario they’ll confiscate your banana but we promise you can buy a new one once you’re out of the airport. Yes to 11 (a), (b) or (c) Your customs officer will refer you to an agricultural specialist who will ask you additional questions and might ask to inspect your food items. In many cases, you’ll be allowed to take your food with you. This often depends on where you got the food and how it’s been processed. Fruits, vegetables and raw meats are usually confiscated. You can research ahead of time at canibringit.com which is a U.S. Government run site. Yes to 11 (d) and/or no. 12: An agricultural specialist will ask to inspect the soil or clothes, shoes or luggage that has been in contact with livestock or farm soil to determine if they contain any dangerous organisms. If they find potentially dangerous substances they will disinfect your items before allowing you to bring them in. For bringing soil into the US, you need a permit. Yes to no. 13 or 14: If you are carrying currency worth over $10,000 you will simply be given a special form to fill out for the Treasury Department. For items intended for sale, you should have already filed a “formal entry” before embarking on your journey. You could do so “on the spot” but these matters are subject to many rules and regulations and can be complicated.

Le formulaire de déclaration en douane américaine

Que se passe-t-il si vous répondez « OUI » ? Certaines personnes semblent penser que répondre « non » à toutes les réponses leur évitera des ennuis. Ce n’est pas le cas et en fait, cela peut même vous causer plus de problèmes, des retards et des amendes. Dites la vérité sur votre formulaire de déclaration en douane et tout ira bien. Dans le pire des cas, ils confisqueront votre banane mais promis, vous pourrez en acheter une nouvelle à votre arrivée à l’aéroport. Oui aux questions 11 (a), (b) ou (c) Votre agent douanier vous dirigera vers un spécialiste agricole qui vous posera des questions supplémentaires et qui pourra inspecter vos fruits. Dans de nombreux cas, vous sera autorisé à garder votre nourriture. Cela dépend souvent de la provenance la nourriture et de la façon dont elle a été transformée. Les fruits, les légumes et la viande crue sont généralement confisqués. Vous pouvez faire

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des recherches avant de partir sur le site canibright. com qui est un site du gouvernement américain. Oui aux questions 11 (d) et/ou 12 : Un spécialiste agricole inspectera la terre ou les vêtements, les chaussures ou les bagages qui ont été en contact avec du bétail ou le sol d’une ferme pour déterminer la présence d’organismes dangereux. S’il trouve des substances potentiellement dangereuses, il désinfectera vos objets avant de vous laisser les garder. Pour importer de la terre aux États-Unis, il vous faut un permis. Oui aux questions 13 ou 14 : Si vous transportez des devises d’une valeur supérieure à 10 000 $, vous devrez simplement remplir un formulaire spécial pour le ministère des finances. Pour les objets destinés à être vendus, vous devriez déjà avoir rempli un « formulaire d’entrée officielle » avant de prendre votre vol. Vous pouvez faire cela sur place mais ce genre de chose est soumis à de nombreuses règles et règlementations et peut être compliqué.

Die US-amerikanische Zollerklärung

Was passiert, wenn Sie JA sagen? Einige Leute nehmen an, dass sie keinerlei Ärger bekommen, wenn sie überall NEIN sagen. Das ist nicht so. Tatsächlich kann dies sogar mehr Probleme, Verzögerungen und sogar Geldbußen verursachen. Seien Sie bei Ihrer Zollerklärung ehrlich, und alles wird gut. Im schlimmsten Fall konfisziert man Ihre Banane, aber wir versprechen Ihnen, dass Sie sich eine neue kaufen können, sobald Sie den Flughafen verlassen haben. Ja zu 11 (a), (b) oder (c) Ihr Zollbeamter wird Sie an einen Spezialisten für landwirtschaftliche Produkte weiterverweisen, der Ihnen zusätzliche Fragen stellen wird und evtl. darum bittet, Ihre Lebensmittel inspizieren zu dürfen. In vielen Fällen wird man Ihnen erlauben, Ihr Essen mitzunehmen. Oft hängt es davon ab, wo Sie die Lebensmittel erworben haben und wie sie verarbeitet wurden. Obst, Gemüse und rohes Fleisch werden in der Regel beschlagnahmt. Sie können vor Abflug auf der Website der US-Regierung canibringit.com nachlesen, was erlaubt ist. Ja bei 11 (d) und/oder Nr. 12: Ein Spezialist für landwirtschaftliche Produkte wird Sie darum bitten, die Erde oder die Kleidung, Schuhe oder das Gepäck inspizieren zu dürfen, welche(s) in Kontakt mit Tieren oder landwirtschaftlichem Boden war, um zu bestimmen, ob diese gefährliche Organismen enthalten. Wenn er potenziell gefährliche Stoffe findet, werden Ihre Gegenstände desinfiziert, bevor Sie die Erlaubnis erhalten, diese einzuführen. Für das Einführen von Erde in die USA benötigen Sie eine Genehmigung. Ja bei Nr. 13 oder 14: Wenn Sie Bargeld im Wert von mehr als $10.000 mit sich führen, erhalten Sie einfach ein besonderes Formular, das Sie für das US Finanzministerium ausfüllen müssen. Für Gegenstände, die für den Verkauf vorgesehen sind, sollten Sie bereits vor Ihrer Abreise eine „formelle Einfuhrgenehmigung“ einholen. Sie tun könnten dies auch „vor Ort“ erledigen, aber diese Vorgänge unterliegen vielen Regeln und können sehr kompliziert sein. v

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Los Angeles

Photo: iStockphoto / Sean Pavone

Rodeo Drive and LA’s other shopping options In the heart of Beverly Hills, three blocks of Rodeo Drive are home to the epicenter of luxury, fashion and affluent lifestyle. It embodies all the glam of the big screen. Flagship locations for some of the most prestigious brands in the world are lined up—polished and elegant, but even if you’re not a shopper, there’s so much to take in. For fashion and trend lovers, this is Paradise! by Cindy-Lou Dale Photos: iStockphotos.com

Shopping couldn’t get more impressive than doing so in one of the world’s most famous luxury shopping destinations. With hundreds of thous ands of lights lining the median of Rodeo Drive, you’ll feel like royalty strolling along the famed street. FAMOUS BRANDS – FAMOUS SHOPPERS The elegant décor sweeps you into the season in stores like Barakat Gallery— purveyors of museum quality antiquities, the cake design studio of La Patisserie Artistique, the collections of Chanel and Dior, and then Café Rodeo for lunch. Next, there’s the high end fashion labels of Brooks Brothers, Battaglia, Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Guess, Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Michael Kors, Prada, Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino, Versace and Yves St Laurent—to mention just a few. The jewelry stores of Bulgari, Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Westime. Shoe shops like Bally, Jimmy Choo and Tory Burch. To finish your day with a little

WOW Power to the people

This sign on the hill is a big attraction for many people because in many ways it represents celebrity culture in Los Angeles. But believe it or not, tons of tourists try to drive up to the iconic Hollywood sign.

celebrity spotting, there’s the city’s best sushi bar at Urasawa. Yes, it’s a famous shopping mecca whose name is synonymous with wealth and privilege. But there are truly few experiences that are more ‘LA’ than a shopping trip to Rodeo Drive, where palm trees and paparazzi compete for your attention amid the slew of designer labels; but for independent, trendy boutiques, Angelenos head to Silver Lake.

Photo: Courtesy of Íslenski Barinn

TRENDY AND INDEPENDENT Formerly one of LA’s rough suburbs, Silver Lake is now a trendy district of working Hollywood types—a tight-knit, active community with only owner run boutiques. “There are probably more artists per capita here than anywhere else in LA,” says Vince Bilbrow, who’s been supplying Hollywood with vintage clothes from his shop, Ragg Mopp Vintage (3816 Sunset), since 1998. At Matrushka (3822 Sunset), owner Laura Howe designs and makes dresses using material she buys in Downtown LA. “We’re lucky because we have a garment district here,” she says, tending to a hem. “I can buy the fabric, come back here, cut it out, and have it in the window on the same day.” Laura’s dresses come in at least 20 styles, using an array of fabrics from bold graphic prints to whimsical pastels resembling an impressionist canvas. If you like a fabric, but not the cut, she can run up a brand new dress in an afternoon. Asked about celebrity customers, Laura won’t name them, or, rather,

can’t. “I’m just so bad with names,” she shrugs, then mentioning that a Desperate Housewife and “that woman from those Wolverine movies” have been in. Other interesting places to shop include La Brea Avenue—it’s one of the arty areas of the city where you’ll find some big name institutions alongside a great selection of boutiques and gourmet eateries. Another good shopping destination is Melrose Avenue, for some more affordable options.

and television, it may be a hard one to pass up. But be warned, it attracts major foot traffic and it will be nearly impossible to pause and take a picture. You’ll end up pushing and shoving just to get close to a particular star. Instead, visit one of the local museums, like the Hollywood Museum and you’ll find plenty of cinema history and authentic movie props, plus you’ll be able to browse without the impossible press of the crowd.

WHAT ELSE? There are of course more experiences to be had in LA and here are the highlights. THE HOLLYWOOD SIGN This sign on the hill is a big attraction for many people because in many ways it represents celebrity culture in Los Angeles. But believe it or not, tons of tourists try to drive up to the iconic Hollywood sign perched on the nearby hills. Not only does it cost you a ton in time and gas, but you can’t even get that close by car. A good alternative is to hike the hills from Griffith Park.

Photo: iStockphoto / gregobagel

SPORTING EVENTS People don’t always think of Los Angeles as a big sports city, but these days they have some of the biggest names in professional sports, playing right in their backyard. While we know it can be hard to overcome your devoted fandom, it’s definitely worth taking in an NHL or NBA game while you’re in town. But if you’re attending a game just for the sake of it, be sure to pick up Clippers tickets, as Lakers tickets will cost you a pretty penny. v

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THE HOLLYWOOD WALK OF FAME With its famous “stars” of Hollywood, featuring iconic names in music, film,

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DINNER – 6 COURSE MENU STARTS WITH A “REFRESHING“ SHOT OF THE NATIONAL SNAPS BRENNIVÍN FOLLOWED BY A BITE-SIZED TASTE OF PUFFIN ICELANDIC OCEAN PERCH Slow cooked ocean perch, beetroot purée, spicy butter, serrano ham, beetroot ICELANDIC MINKE WHALE Shallot vinaigrette, crispy Jerusalem artichokes ICELANDIC SEA TROUT Yuzu mayo, truffle mayo, crispy quinoa, apple ICELANDIC PLAICE Samphire, green asparagus, blood orange, lime beurre blanc RACK OF FREE RANGE ICELANDIC LAMB Lamb fillet, leeks, pickled onions, browned celeriac, baked carrots, spinach and dill cream Dessert by pastry chef Axel Þ.

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Issue three 95

Sunny California

San Francisco’s hoods A haven for free-thinkers, drag queens, hippies, beatniks and bohemians, the “City by the Bay” lives by its own rules and is utterly irresistible because of it. by Cindy-Lou Dale Photos: iStockphotos.com

San Francisco is the one your mother warned you about. It’s pierced, tattooed, laughs too loud, and drinks and smokes too much. While most cities seduce you with their subtle charms, San Francisco just knocks you on the head and drags you in. She’s an ill-tempered wild child with a badass reputation. But love her you will. THE GAME CHANGER San Francisco is one of the most idiosyn cratic cities in the US and has long been a center for game changers: from the hippies who launched “the Summer of Love” in Haight-Ashbury, to the residents of the Castro—champions of the gay rights movement, to the innovators of Silicon Valley. The result: a city that combines the friendliness of Southern California with the intellect of New York. It’s not for nothing that the Beat Generation’s literature was centered around North Beach; San Francisco is a place where you can idly tell a soap seller the smell reminds you of your grandmother, and he’ll launch into an anecdote about Proust. Its formidable past has fostered a culture of acceptance. Different as each neighborhood is, this is one place where you can go anywhere, dressed anyway, and no one will give you a second glance, unless, of course, you’re one of the ‘naked men of the Castro,’ who see nudity as a way of affirming their civil rights. A PLACE TO FIND YOURSELF The openness is instantly captivating. It has a laid-back atmosphere, great food and those astonishing views—but with a kooky personality. Slip right in with the boho crowd and explore its farm-to-fork fixtures, craft cocktail bars and independent boutiques where the outlandish and the quirky are all the rage. “The Summer of Love” may no longer be in bloom, and the misfits are outnumbered by Silicon Valley entrepreneurs, but San Francisco is as captivating as ever. If Los Angeles attracts people hoping to be discovered, San Francisco has always drawn those wanting to discover themselves—amid giant redwoods, sublime headland and rows of candycolored houses cresting the city’s 43 hills.

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SHAPING SAN FRANCISCO TODAY San Francisco is a collection of independent villages where you’ll find enclaves of people fiercely crafting their own communities— but finding them requires looking further than Union Square and Fisherman’s Wharf. There’s the out-and-proud Castro, which has shaped so much of San Francisco’s history, and whose streets are worth a wander whatever your orientation. There’s Haight-Ashbury, still clinging to its hippy past. Even North Beach retains echoes of its Beat Generation heyday, but the neighborhoods shaping today’s San Francisco are ones that don’t roll off the tongue so easily. Two decades ago, Hayes Valley was the worst area of the city. Today, it’s the template for regeneration, with a thriving, yet passionately independent, shopping and restaurant scene. The Mission has long gone from a working class, immigrant neighborhood to one of the city’s nightlife hubs, but recently it’s become a daytime destination too, with the emergence of the “Valencia Street Corridor.” Meanwhile, SoMa, or South of Market, is the latest district to emerge—its phenomenal bars challenging the Mission for its nightlife crown. Different as they are, San Francisco’s villages are united by a common thread: the desire to be different. The streets “The Summer of Love” may no longer be in bloom, and the misfits are outnumbered by Silicon Valley entrepreneurs, but San Francisco is as captivating as ever.

teem with artisans and entrepreneurs blending chocolate, selling vintage, or crafting Prohibition-era cocktails. From shops to restaurants, keeping it local is the name of the game. It helps, of course, that San Francisco enjoys one of the most spectacular settings in the world. But there’s a reason locals call it simply “the city”—everything revolves around these 43 hills. v

TEN TOP TIPS 1.

Breakfast at Dynamo, the city’s gourmet donut shop. (2760 24th St)

Take a stroll to admire the mural-splashed Mission District—it’s a vibrant mash-up of Latino culture, indie shops, arty hangouts and some of the city’s most innovative eateries. Focus on 24th St, Florida St, Alabama St and Balmy St.

While on Florida Street stop at Charles Chocolates—an artisanal chocolate maker acclaimed for its European-style truffles.

On Valencia St is Craftsman and Wolves, an upscale bakery that caters to the Mission’s hipster crowd with a daring selection of exquisite patisserie.

The city’s premier ice cream parlor, Humphry Slocombe (1790 Harrison St), stands out for its unusual flavors. Try their Balsamic Caramel.

To round things off, celebrate a fabulous day of discovery with cocoa-infused specialty cocktails at ABV (3174 16th St), a favorite local hangout in the Mission.

Join America’s food truck revolution at SoMa StrEat Food Park (428 11th St), a former parking lot that’s been converted into a food truck park.

The best way to cross the Golden Gate Bridge is to hike or bike across, then get a ferry back from Sausalito.

Try Peek—a website that picks the best things to do in San Francisco: www.peek.com.

10.

In Chinatown, an affordable spot for steamed dumplings and buns is the Great Eastern Restaurant (649 Jackson St), which also happens to be President Obama’s favorite when visiting.

Photo: iStockphoto / coleong

Whatever you do, don’t miss out on San Francisco. WOW air is going to fly you all the way there from Europe via Iceland. Book cheap flights to California with WOW air and on the way, have a WOW Stopover in Iceland at no additional airfare. WOW air have just started their San Francisco service, offering up to five flights a week from almost all WOW destinations in Europe to San Francisco all year round. Find available connections to California at wowair.com.

Issue three 97 Photo: iStockphoto / Meinsahn

Fun Canada

MontrĂŠal Festivals A festival is defined as an occasion for feasting or celebration, a regularly occurring program of cultural performances, exhibitions, or competitions. In other words, a time for fun. MontrĂŠal has that fun time in spades, with more than 100 festivals scheduled every year. They run the gamut from theater to music to art to fireworks and just about any other reason you can think of for a celebratory gathering. by Judy Colbert Photo: iStockphoto.com / Songquan Deng

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Most of Montréal’s festivals are in the spring/ summer and can make your visit, whether for pleas ure or business, considerably more enjoyable. However, something is scheduled almost throughout the year, so don’t fret if you’re visiting another time.

AMONG THE SUMMER FESTIVAL HIGHLIGHTS ARE FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL DE JAZZ DE MONTRÉAL From June 29 through July 9, the 37th edition of the Jazz festival features 1,000 concerts at 15 indoor and 10 outdoor venues. The outdoor shows run from noon to midnight and are free of charge. You can listen to musicians you don’t know and will follow for the rest of your life and the well-known. In the latter category, there’s Jazz at Lincoln Center Orchestra featuring Wynton Marsalis, Paulo Ramos, Chick Corea Trio with Christian McBride and Brian Blade, Taj Mahal, and other musicians of international fame. www.montrealjazzfest.com MONTREAL CIRQUE FESTIVAL Before the jazz notes stop filling the air, the circus starts with the Montreal Cirque Festival from July 7 through 17. Again, in indoor and outdoor venues, for free and for fee, performers juggle, dance (and even ballet juggle), balance, jump, leap, revolve and rotate in a Cyr wheel, and twirl. They do things that make you wonder, “How do they do that?” and then, even more puzzling, “How did they think of doing that?” Flip FabriQue even has a preshow show where a specialized guide leads you through rare anecdotes and provides a peek behind the scenes and into circus history. Buy a ticket to more than one show and each show has a reduced price. Buy an Accro passport for C$135 to see all the shows. montrealcompletementcirque.com

it well. More than 100,000 people have enjoyed this entertainment each of the past two years. While the artists are from around the globe—from Ireland to Trinidad & Tobago—74 percent are from Canada and nine out of ten of those are from Montreal. No two Sunday performances are the same, and that covers nearly 300 hours of music throughout the summer. Held at 2 and 9:30 p.m. (cancelled in case of rain), concerts are also held on Saturday, September 3 and Monday, September 5. The concerts are free for children 12 and under. www.piknicelectronik.com/en v

JUST FOR LAUGHS The circus tents haven’t even been proverbially folded when it’s time for comedy to reign supreme in the city. Beginning on July 13 and running through July 31, headliners for the Just For Laughs Comedy Festival 2016, David Cross (Arrested Development); Howie Mandel (Deal or No Deal); Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Tony Hale and Timothy Simons from Veep, tell-all. Lewis Black, Jimmy Carr, Gad Elmaleh, Kathleen Madigan, and Jeff Ross in his Jeff Ross Present Roast Battle are also on the roster. Among the free outdoor events are comedy, circus acts, street dancing and the ever-popular Twins Parade featuring twins, triplets, and other multiples. Are you one—or is that two or three? If so, then join in the fun. Even the Just For Laughs URL has to make you chuckle. www.hahaha.com

Most of Montréal’s festivals are in the spring/summer and can make your visit, whether for pleasure or business, con siderably more enjoyable.

PIKNIC ÉLECTRONIK On Sundays, from late May through early October, it’s the 14th annual Piknic Électronik, an outdoor event with an unrivaled view of Montreal and electronic music, from classical to innovative. Appropriate for all ages and for those new to the genre and those who know

As mentioned, there are more than 100 festivals throughout the year. If these don’t suit your fancy, check the calendar to find something that will at “What to do” on www.tourisme-montreal.org.

It’s easy having fun in Montréal and you can start the fun on one of WOW air’s Airbus aircraft. Add even more WOW to your trip! On your way to or from Canada you can have a WOW Stopover in Iceland and check out an Icelandic festival or two. WOW air now offers up to five flights a week from Europe to Montréal, Canada all year round. Find available connections to Montréal or Toronto from almost all WOW destinations in Europe at wowair.com.

taste the best of iceland... ... in one amazing meal icelandic gourmet feast Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic spirit Brennívín Followed by seven delicious tapas

late night dining Our kitchen is open until 23:30 on weekdays and 01:00 on weekends

Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa Lobster tails baked in garlic Pan-fried line caught blue ling with lobster-sauce Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina Minke Whale with cranberry & malt-sauce White chocolate "Skyr" mousse with passion fruit coulis

7.990 kr.

RESTAURANT- BAR Vesturgötu 3B | 101 Reykjavík | Tel. 551 2344 | www.tapas.is Issue three 99

Fun Canada

Scotiabank Caribbean Carnival. Photo: iStockphoto/Jani_Autio

Scotiabank BuskerFest. Photo: iStockphoto/Jen Grantham

Pride Toronto Festival. Photo: iStockphoto/bilgehan yilmaz

What’s on in Toronto this summer? Just 13 miles from the heart of downtown LA, is Santa Monica, the laid-back beach town with big city sophistication. With its 3.5 mile stretch of coastline and its eight walkable neighborhoods, there’s plenty to see and do. by Cindy-Lou Dale Photos: iStockphoto.com

JUNE 10-26 – LUMINATO FESTIVAL The Luminato Festival is one of the preeminent arts festivals in North America. An event for people open to having art change their outlook on the world, the Luminato Festival transforms theaters, parks and public spaces across the city and creat es a home for artists to play, share and create. www.luminatofestival.com JUNE 15-19 – NORTH BY NORTHEAST MUSIC FESTIVAL NxNE has become the Canadian festival destination for emerging artists, major-label headliners, music filmmakers and digital interactive innovators bridging the gap between technology and the arts. It is now an essential gathering spot for artists, industry professionals and fans. www.nxne.com 23-26 JUNE – TASTE OF TORONTO During one of the world’s premier food festivals, Fort York is transformed into a foodie wonderland of summer eating, drinking and entertainment. The city’s latest, greatest and hottest restaurants dish up their best in an alfresco gourmet feast. Top that off with over 70 producers of the finest food, beverages and premium brands providing a bountiful food market, and you have a can’t-miss culinary festival. www.tasteoftoronto.com

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24 JUNE TO 3 JULY – TD TORONTO JAZZ FESTIVAL With 1,500 musicians at 40 loca tions, celebrating its 30th annivers ary, the TD Toronto Jazz Festival has become known as one of North America’s premier jazz festivals. www.torontojazz.com JUNE 24 TO JULY 3 – PRIDE TORONTO FESTIVAL One of the largest Pride celebra tions in the world, with an estimated attendance of over 1 million people, it includes a three-day street festival, a special Family Pride program, Trans Pride, the Dyke March and the infamous and fabulous Pride Parade. Toronto Pride Week means ten days of food, fun and fab. www.pridetoronto.com JUNE 29 TO JULY 10 – TORONTO FRINGE FESTIVAL Fringe festival-goers measure the quality of the experience not by the script (or absence thereof), but rather, by the enthusiastic reaction to the performance. It’s the city’s liveliest grassroots theater festival. www.fringetoronto.com

The Luminato Festival is one of the preeminent arts festivals in North America. An event for people open to having art change their outlook on the world, the Luminato Festival transforms theaters, parks and public spaces across the city and creates a home for artists to play, share and create.

JULY 1-3 - REDPATH WATERFRONT FESTIVAL TORONTO The ultimate festival by-the-sea of good food, live music, cold drinks and a waterfront view, with excitement provided by the Tall Ships Challenge, the Royal Canadian Navy, the Waterfront Artisan Market, a stunt dog show and the Parade of Sails—the grand finale. www.towaterfrontfest.com JULY 2-24 – BEACHES INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL Unfolding each summer in the heart of the lakeside neighborhood, this cele bration of music features a dynamic musical roster, multiple stages and even an enticing line-up of gourmet food trucks. www.beachesjazz.com JULY 5-31 – SCOTIABANK CARIBBEAN CARNIVAL TORONTO For the past 49 summers, the streets of Toronto have come alive with the sights, sounds and spirit of the Caribbean. And now, Toronto’s beloved Scotiabank Caribbean Carnival is bigger and better than ever with an expanded parade route, a variety of free entertainment and a lively parade featuring Caribbean

dancers—Mas players and calypso singers which all come together for an evening of elegance at The Carnival Ball. www.torontocaribbeancarnival.com JULY 8-10 – TORONTO OUTDOOR ART EXHIBITION As the largest of its kind in Canada, the Toronto Outdoor Art Exhibition offers a fresh air and free alternative to conventional art shows and galleries, showcasing the work of some 500 artists. Side-by-side, established artists, undis covered talents and innovative students sell their work directly to the public and make lasting connections with art dealers and collectors. www.torontooutdoorart.org JULY 9-10 – SALSA ON ST CLAIR Canada’s hottest street festival, Salsa on St. Clair, is bigger and better than ever this year expanding into a weeklong celebration of Latin music, dance, food and culture! The festivities feature events throughout the city including a series of Latin dance and art exhibitions and sizzling salsa parties all capped off with the main event, the 10th Annual Salsa on St Clair Street Festival. www.salsaintoronto.com JULY 15-17 - HONDA INDY TORONTO The roar of the engines, the cheer of the crowd, the rush of pure heart-pumping adrenaline, there is nowhere more satisfying for a racing fan. The Honda Indy Toronto is among the most respected

motorsports events in North America and features a weeklong festival-like atmosphere that includes the fastest racing series on the planet, celebrity athletes, live entertainment and interactive activities. www.hondaindytoronto.com JULY 22-24 – TORONTO’S FESTIVAL OF BEER The Toronto Festival of Beer, also known as Beerfest, celebrates Canada’s rich brewing history by featuring more than 120 brands from around the world as well as many Ontario craft brewers. The event has become Canada’s largest beer festival. www.beerfestival.ca JULY 23-31 – ROGERS CUP Hard courts, hard lines and a place where “love” is a bad word; for nine days this August, the tennis frenzy takes Toronto by storm, as the world’s best tennis players compete for the Cup and the $3 million in prize money. www.rogerscup.com

AUGUST 5-7 – KRINOS TASTE OF THE DANFORTH FESTIVAL This event, held in Greektown, brings delectable cuisine out of local restaurants and into the streets. Listen to Greek bands while getting your fill of authentic souvlaki, stuffed grape leaves, grilled lamb and moussaka. There are some exhibitors offering contests, prizes and free samples and, of course, dozens and dozens of tasty food stations from Danforth’s amazing array of multi-ethnic restaurants who all celebrate the fun flavors of Greece. www.tasteofthedanforth.com AUGUST 25-28 – SCOTIABANK BUSKERFEST This is Toronto’s wildly successful international street performer festival—a showcase for comedians, contortionists, musicians, magicians, fire jugglers, acrobats, aerial artists, clowns and daredevils who all come together for North America’s largest street performer festival and epilepsy awareness event in the world. www.torontobuskerfest.com v

Start planning your summer in Toronto and check out www.seetorontonow.com for more information. Take the opportunity to have a WOW Stopover in Iceland on your way to Canada or back and get two vacations for the price of one—plus, there are lots of festivals in Iceland this summer too! WOW air now offers flights to Toronto, Canada, four to five times a week from Europe, all year round. Find available connections to Toronto or Montréal from almost all WOW destinations in Europe at wowair.com.

“Great first meal in Reykjavik” “Amazing food, excellent staff” “Best restaurant in Iceland”

Scandinavian cuisine Hönnun: Marknet ehf.

Enjoy a four course Icelandic set menu in one of Reykjaviks oldest buildings

Lækjarbrekka restaurant - Bankastraeti 2, 101 Reykjavik - Tel: (+354) 551 4430 - www.laekjarbrekka.is - info@laekjarbrekka.is Issue three 101

Eat, drink and be merry

A guide to big eats in small Baltimore neighborhoods Baltimore has always been a city of neighborhoods, each a universe unto itself. Each section of the city has its own history, culture, and personality—an identity that can only be truly understood after years or generations of experience. by Lisa Merkey Photos: iStockphoto.com and Lisa Merkey

Photo: iStockphoto / Melpomenem

Although Baltimore is a made up of over 200 distinct neighborhoods, there are a few which stand out, mainly due to their gastronomical offerings. CANTON When you think of waterfront communi ties in Baltimore, Canton is at the top of the list. This former plantation area became industrialized in the late 1800’s. Factories, piers, and warehouses sprung up by the waterfront. Homes were soon built for use by the blue-collar workers in the area. By the 1980’s, Canton’s industrial base had dwindled away, leaving a skyline full of abandoned factories. These skeletons of former industry soon became one of the most popular areas in Baltimore. The main square provides a social hub full of eating options and watering holes. Ask any Canton regular what the local hot spot is and you’ll surely get the answer, ‘Nacho Mamas.’ Known as the home of the ‘Hubcap Margarita’—you will need a few amigos to help with

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When you think of waterfront comm unities in Baltimore, Canton is at the top of the list.

Canton.

this drink, served in an actual auto hubcap. Mexican food served in an atmosphere of Elvis meets Baltimore, makes this place a local favorite. You can also find ‘Natty Boh’ beer on tap here. Short for National Bohemian, Natty Boh is a little beer from Baltimore with a big cult following.

Next on the list, ‘Myth and Moonshine’ offers a menu filled with Southern and Creole dishes. Menu highlights include po’ boy sandwiches, shrimp n’ grits and beignets. You can wash down your meal with a choice of over 70 white lightning drinks served in a mason jar. On the edge of Canton, you’ll find the ‘Annabel Lee Tavern,’ named after Edgar Allan Poe’s last complete poem. You can (literally) read the writing

The Annabell Lee Tavern in Canton.

on the walls of this place while sipping a cocktail or waiting for your entrée to arrive. This Poe-themed tavern hosts a menu with both entrees and drinks named after the many writings of the Baltimore author. LITTLE ITALY While strolling through the narrow streets of this charming neighborhood, you will feel the ambiance of the Italy. So much so, that you may feel you need your passport to continue. Visitors come from all over to watch outdoor movies, participate in bocce tournaments, and attend Italian festivals. But the biggest draw to this quaint neighborhood is the food. Filled with delicious family-run restaurants, it’s difficult to name a favorite. A few of the staple choices include; Sabatino’s which has been serving Baltimore for more than 50 years; Chiapparelli’s, known for their famous Cesar Salad; and Amici’s, a casual and family oriented eatery. No matter where you eat in Little Italy, desserts at Vaccaro’s is a must. This corner Italian pastry shop takes the cake (pun intended). Choose from cannolis, gelato, and Italian cookies galore. Chances are you won’t eat all of your dessert as the portions are “gigantesco.”

A street scene from Little Italy in Baltimore.

GREEKTOWN In existence since the early 1900’s, but not named until 1980, Greektown is home to around 600 families. Old world charm is evident in all the restaurants and shops which line the main street. Looking for the authentic Greek cuis ine with Baltimore flair? Give Samos a try. Named after a Greek island in the Eastern Aegean Sea, this awardwinning restaurant has been around

since 1977—A BYOB (bring your own beer and wine) and cash only restau rant which serves both American and Greek favorites. Ikaros is another long standing family-run eatery for traditional Greek cuisine and wines, serving traditional dishes such as spanakopita, mous saka, and everyone’s favorite—gyros.

FROM REYKJAVIK

All year-round

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All aboard for adventure! One of the many pubs which line the streets of Fells Point.

FELL’S POINT Fell’s Point is a waterfront community dotted with pubs, restaurants and quirky shops. Most of the 18th and 19th-century buildings were once oneC of the ‘three B’s’—boarding houses, M brothels and bars. Steeped in history, Fell’s Point, estaY blished around 1763, was named after William Fell, an English Quaker who CM purchased 100 acres and founded the MY town along with an adjoining shipyard. You’ll feel the rumble of the cobb CY lestone hitting your tires as you cruise through the neighborhood on one of CMY the two main streets, Thames and Broadway. Park your car and head outK by foot, though, as there are entirely too many nooks and crannies to ex plore in this town. This area has the largest concentra tion of nightlife in the city. The bars here are less offbeat than you’d find in other parts of the city, having the traditional pub feeling. You’ll find every other door is both open and bearing a chalkboard listing their drink and food specials. With names such as ‘The Wharf Rat,’ ‘Cat’s Eye,’ ‘Bertha’s Mussels’ and ‘Ale Mary,’ any pub experience you choose will surely be unique. So there you have it … a starter guide to local eats in Baltimore. Where’s the best place to start? Anywhere is good. Just take it slow and enjoy all the flavors that each neighborhood has to offer. v

When you fly to Washington, D.C., get more, Baltimore! WOW air offers flights to BWI airport so you can visit both Washington, D.C. and Baltimore from most of WOW air’s European destinations all year round. Also, try a WOW stopover in Iceland on your way; it’s like getting two vacations for the price of one. Find cheap flights to Baltimore from around Europe with WOW air at wowair.com. Join our club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox.

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WE GO THE EXTRA MILE! Issue three 103 Book online www.specialtours.is / info@specialtours.is Call us +354 560 8800, or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour

Bristol’s street art

THE EVER CHANGING FREE MUSEUM You might not know a lot about Bristol, yet. All that is about to change as we are going to introduce you to one of the hippest and most happening cities in England. More mellow and less crowded than London, Bristol is also a museum in its own right with countless art exhibitions that are 100% free. You just need to know where to look. Photos: VisitBristol.co.uk and from private collection.

If you’d rather have a guide, you’re in luck as you can combine two great things; an interesting tour of Bristol’s street art where you can hear many of the behind-the-scenes stories about the artists and their work, and a walking tour around the city, where you can get a good feeling for it. THAT WALL WhereTheWall is a tour operator founded by Rob Dean, a digital designer with a great passion for street art. The tour actually used to be an app. Rob collected information on hundreds of artworks hidden on various walls in various locations, a painstaking task which he did mostly on a bike. He put forward this information for everyone to see and as the apps notoriety grew Tourism Bristol asked him to host a short introductory walking tour with a group which became an instant hit. Ever since, Rob and his colleagues at WhereTheWall have been offering guided tours with a surprise twist at the end for guests visiting Bristol. Rob has also done similar mapping of street art in East London, around Brick Lane and Shoreditch that is also a walking tour today by Alternative London. His passion for the subject is evident and he is intricately involved in the scene. “We all share a need for individualism and independence in our everyday life and that really connects us all to one another and to all people living and working in Bristol’s creative culture,” Rob says. THE WRITING ON THE WALL Known for being the birthplace of famous street artists such as Banksy, 3D from Massive Attack, Nick Walker and Cheo, Bristol actually had a very strict policy against graffiti not too many years ago. Bristol’s city council might even be the biggest destroyers of Banksy’s work in history, a fact they truly regret today. When Banksy painted his “Wellhung Lover”—practically waving a red flag in in the face of the council (the wall is in front of their offices), that zero tolerance policy was still in full force. The house Banksy painted on was privately owned by the members of Massive Attack, and painted with

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WhereTheWall is a tour operator founded by Rob Dean, a digital designer with a great passion for street art. The tour actually used to be an app.

For a great graffiti walking tour with knowledgeable guides, go to wherethewall.com.

can draw their whole work free hand, others use handmade stencils which allow them to convey their message on the walls more quickly (a good thing where graffiti artists are considered vandals and arrested) and others project photos on a wall to paint by, creating amazing photorealistic images. And then there’s reverse graffiti, aka clean tagging, most noticeable on the walls of Bristol’s former police station that now houses an arts and enterprise space. To make reverse graffiti, artists make their wooden stencils, put them on dirty walls and then start cleaning the wall around them with powerful machines. This leaves behind the marks of the stencil in the dirt on the wall and because cleaning isn’t against the law, this can be practiced everywhere you find a dirty wall. The technique, developed by artist Paul Curtis, aka Moose, has also been popular on asphalt roads and sidewalks. v

their permission, but the counsel wanted it gone. After much debate the council decided to ask the local people via a vote in the local newspaper; Should the Banksy painting stay or be removed. When 97% of the people who voted said that the painting should stay, they began to realize the importance of Banksy to so many people. Eventually, the council’s stance on graffiti in Bristol changed, and the city is now very much the capital of street art if there ever was one. MORE THAN JUST BANKSY Works by Banksy have become very famous and his clever use of stencils and political and social commentary in addition to his secret identity, have all awarded him with the attention he deserves. Banksy chooses to work in the shadows, surprising people with his artwork, which often just pops up suddenly. Bristol holds many of Banksy’s most famous works. Iconic and brilliant as he (she?) is, there’s actually a lot more to street art than Banksy. Some amazing artists from around the globe have visited Bristol to add their touch to the walls of the city. Bristol even had a big street art festival a few years back where international artists got to decorate giant walls with pictures that are still there for people to enjoy. Go to Nelson Street for a peek at some large and amazing street art. DECK THE WALLS Street art is not tagging tacky and unreadable symbols on a wall with spray paint. True street art is in flow with current issues, makes us think and enhances the environment it’s in. Artists use different methods with their spray paint. Some

You’ll find cheap flights to South-West England at wowair.com. Join the WOW air club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox. Mellow and less crowded than the big cities, Bristol is a more intimate affair. Get close and experience the atmosphere of this fun and vibrant city. WOW air now offers cheap flights to Bristol and Bath four times a week, all year round.

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The Swedish countryside

TRAVEL WELL, TRAVEL SLOW You’ve probably heard of slow food and slow fashion, but have you heard about slow travel? We might have just invented the concept—well maybe not, but let us assure you that it does not mean traveling slowly to your destination. Photos: VisitVästerås

Slow travel is all in the mindset and instead of rushing between iconic historic buildings and monu ments and taking in all the sights and shops, how about visiting a nation’s countryside instead? Spending a week or a weekend in a small town or a city, taking leisurely rides through fields and forests and shopping fresh produce from local farmers could be just what you need to get relaxed. Slow travel also gives you a chance to breathe in the real culture of your destination, not just the attractions. INTRODUCING VÄSTERÅS By Lake Mälaren in central Sweden, Västerås might be small by international city standards but it’s still large enough to hold everything a traveler might need or want without losing that small town feeling. According to locals, to enjoy Västerås is to enjoy Lake Mälaren, the third-largest freshwater lake in Sweden. This little city has a rich water sports culture with a lively harbor by the lake.

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At the harbor you can take a relaxing boat ride around the lake, taking in the islands and the unique and available-for-rent Otter Inn hotel room based in the middle of the lake .

The Sala Silvermine.

From the harbor of Västerås, you can even sail to Stockholm. Previously best known as an industrial city, Västerås is now becoming known for retailing— Västerås being the birthplace of multinational clothing retailer H&M—its lake life and its universi ty. It’s a great place to spend your

vacation or as a base to venture from into the Swedish countryside. THE CITY BY THE LAKE Easily walkable, Västerås is built on flat terrain. A river runs through the center of town which makes finding your way around so much easier; you just follow the river. Most of the city’s attractions are also based around or close to the river, such as

A view of Västerås harbor from Kokpunkten.

the beautiful Västerås Cathedral, Aseaströmmen (the statue of the cyclists) and the Apotekarbron Bridge, which is probably the most photogenic spot in Västerås.

The view from Apotekarbron Bridge.

Standing on Apotekarbron Bridge gives you a view of beautiful old buildings on each side of the Svartån River with the tower of Västerås City Hall in the background. Follow the river onwards through Stadsparken Park and you will walk by Västerås Castle and Vasaparken Park before you arrive at the harbor. At the harbor you can take a relaxing boat ride around the lake, taking in the islands and the unique and availablefor-rent Otter Inn hotel room based in the middle of the lake or the more inviting Oops! Hotel that looks like a sunken Swedish cottage. If you’re looking for more excitement check out SjöEvent’s tours and activities around the lake for everything from flyboarding to jet-skiing. They also offer a rib boat tours where you can cruise the lake at up to 50 knots. (www.sjoevent.se) ISLAND LIFE Spend your day on one of the islands of Lake Mälaren, such as Elba or Ridön. Elba is an official nature reserve and is mostly covered in trees but does have large rocky surfaces that are perfect for sunbathers. Forgot your picnic? Don’t worry; Elba has a very popular summer restaurant that sometimes offers dance and music events. At Ridön Island, you can experience the amazing countryside and fantastic adventures and the island has two summer cafés to try out. Spending a night at the island’s youth hostel or renting your very own cabin is a great idea. The island is perfect for cycling, and taking your bike on the M/S Havsörnen is no problem. If you don’t feel like pedaling, you can opt for a fun tractor tour around the island. VIKING CULTURE Västerås is one of the oldest cities in Sweden, and in Northern Europe, and the area has been populated since before 1000 AD. Close to Västerås you can find Anundshög, Sweden’s largest heathen burial mound, built between 210-500 AD. The mound is over 74 yards wide and almost 10 yards high. Some historians have associated the mound with the legendary King Anund, although that’s speculative. Others say the name is taken from the large rune

stone at the site where an inscription reads: “Folkvid raised all of these stones after his son Heden, Anund’s brother. Vred carved the runes.” The area around Anundshög is one of the largest and richest areas with prehistoric remains in Sweden. People were already beginning to settle in the area during the Stone Age, around 2500 BC. Trade routes and water courses met around Badelunda Ridge and over the centuries the area became a cultural center for the whole of the western Mälardalen region. At Anundshög, people gathered for Thing (district court), made sacrifices to their gods and later prayed to the new Christian God, and buried their dead. Anundshög and the area around it are always open and pedestrian routes around the burial mound are wheelchair accessible. Nearby, is Café Anund where guests can enjoy great locally made food and homemade cakes. The café is open Wednesday through Sunday from 11 AM to 4 PM.

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Take the family to Logastrand. Photo: Pia Nordlander

VÄSTERÅS FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY Take full advantage of the small town feel when you travel with the whole family. The kids are going to love it! After whetting their appetite for water related activities, you can take them to Kokpunkten, Sweden’s first action water park. This gigantic building reaching up into the sky has eight floors that are bursting with activities and challenges. Parents can even take turns having fun with the kids or relaxing in the green room and saunas and

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The High Wire Track at Sala Silvermine.

Issue three 107

Call +354-414-1533 or email us at quad@quad.is!

Sail to an island on Lake Mälaren for a day of fun. Photo: Pia Nordlander

Sailing on Lake Mälaren. Photo: Clifford Shirley.

swimming out into the open air to admire the spectacular view of Lake Mälaren. For outdoor water fun, pack your sunscreen and take the family to Lögastrand Beach, a bathing area by the lake, only a 15-minute walk from the city center. Another great place to take the kids for a day out is the Kungsbyns Animal Park and you might even learn something. This cozy, little park is a cross between a petting zoo and a wildlife reserve. With exotic wild animals such as snakes and spiders and Nordic farm animals, everyone should find something they like. Don’t miss out on a chance to see the moose, the king of the Swedish forest. Last but not least, you can take the family to the Sala Silvermine, one of the world’s best-preserved mine settings. Here you can go deep underground and explore the dark and winding tunnels and magnificent chambers carved out by the miners over centuries. A word of advice; dress warm no matter how

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Discover the Viking culture at Anundshög. Photo: Leon Grimaldi

good the weather is, the temperature down in the mine is just a few degrees above freezing. After a tour of the Sala Silvermine, take advantage of the beautiful visitor center and the surrounding area. From the depths of the mine to the highest treetops, if your kids like climbing they’re going to love the High Wire Track, a breathtaking adventure track including a suspension bridge and multiple challenges. The tour needs to be booked at least two days in advance. (www.salasilvergruva.se)

You’ll find the kind of the Swedish forest at Kungsbyns Animal Park.

JUST RELAX Whatever you decide to do, whatever you decide to skip, just remember to take it easy; you don’t need to see everything. This is slow travel—Enjoy Sweden, enjoy the countryside and enjoy the feeling of returning well-rested from your vacation. v

Don’t like taking it slow? No worries, WOW air flies to Stockholm Västerås airport so if a country vacation is not your cup of unpasteurized milk you can take a 75-minute bus ride from the airport straight to Stockholm’s central station. Book cheap flights to Sweden from USA, Canada and Iceland with WOW air at wowair.com. Join our club at wowair.com/wowairclub and get all the best deals directly to your inbox.

Catch the bus to Reykjavík

from Keflavík International Airport Travel in Iceland the smart way Find your routes, plan your journey, locate the nearest bus stop and track your bus on a real-time map with the straeto-app.

Route 55 FLE–RVIK

REYKJANESBÆR 413

FLE 413

REYKJAVÍK 10

VOGAAFLEGGJARI 412

Get tickets at the 10-11 shop when you arrive, opposite where you exit customs. The bus stop is close to arrivals and is well marked. Tickets are also available on the bus. Issue three 109

bus.is

Guided in Berlin

The great Berlin experience There’s no better way to start your vacation in a foreign city than to take a guided tour around town with a knowledgeable host; navigating easily through unknown streets and an unfamiliar culture and understanding the unwritten rules you need to follow will help you enjoy your stay even more. If you’re heading to Berlin, you should definitely let the team at Berlinur show you around. Photos: Courtesy of Berlinur.de

Berlinur.de is an Icelandic tour guide company, founded in 2014 by Katrín Árnadóttir and Margrét Rós Harðar dóttir, whose goal is to offer a personal experience in Berlin. Berlinur.de has been growing steadily since its founding and besides hiring more guides to show people around, Anna Þorbjörg Jónasdóttir was added to the list of owners at Berlinur this spring. Berlinur offers walking tours around Berlin, such as the Berlin Wall Tour, the Best of Tour, the Multi Kulti Kreuzberg Tour and the Group Gourmet Tour. Since Berlin is pretty flat, Berlinur also offers bike tours to introduce their guests to the city. Their latest tour is the Third Reich Tour but now, let’s hear it from the Berlinur team.

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GETTING STARTED While on vacation in New York, Margrét Rós went on a gourmet tour, which was a great experience and after that she designed a tour like that in Iceland. When she moved with her family to Berlin, she decided to localize the tour to Berlin. Meanwhile, Katrín had been promoting Iceland to Germans through various projects and then chose to turn things around, introducing her selected city to other Icelanders. At this precise moment in their lives, Katrín and Margrét Rós met. “Something just clicked,” Katrín and Margrét Rós say, “and we decided to embark upon this journey together like only Icelanders can.” Offering their guests a personal experience of Berlin is very

“We’re not just the kind of guides who know all the answers to the everyday touristy questions but we can also give our guests insights into what it’s like to move to this city from abroad.”

important to the Berlinur Team. “We’re not just the kind of guides who know all the answers to the everyday touristy questions but we can also give our guests insights into what it’s like to move to this city from abroad, how the school system here works, what’s being discussed among the locals and when that new airport will finally be ready. All the guides at Berlinur have a personal connection to the city and love introducing it to travelers. They know all the good places to eat and shop and where to go if you want to have fun in any other way.” POPULAR ATTRACTIONS Berlinur’s most popular tour is without a doubt the Berlin Wall Tour. “It’s almost impossible to visit Berlin without getting

to know a little about the Wall’s dramatic history, which is pretty much wherever you look. More often than not, our guests like to try our other tours as well and then we recommend the Multi Kulti Kreuzberg, which gives you a unique insight into everyday life in the Kreuzberg neighborhood, a melting pot of different international cultures. When spring and summer arrive, our bike tours and Best of Tours are also perfect for a quick introduction to the city,” Margrét Rós and Katrín tell us.

Tour where we will educate our guests on the atrocious effects of the Second World War and its prelude in Hitler’s so-called Third Reich. Delving into this history and gathering stories about this time has really affected us but we believe that we now have a tour that even the biggest history buffs will find worthwhile,” the Berlinur team concludes. v

WHAT’S NEXT? Berlinur will soon add a brand new tour to their agenda. “For the past few months, we’ve been putting together a Third Reich

You’ll find cheap flights to Berlin from USA, Canada and Iceland at wowair.com. You can also make a WOW Stopover in Iceland, it’s like getting to vacations for the price of one!

For more information and booking visit www.berlinur. de or email them at info@ berlinur.de.

Experience the great Berlin even better with the help of the hostesses at Berlinur.de. A guided tour at the beginning of your trip will definitely enhance your traveling experience.

“The icelandic museum of rock 'n' roll is as eccentric in it's telling as the tale it celebrates” david fricke, rolling stone.

The museum is located in keflavík / 5 minutes from keflavik international airport. for more go to / rokksafn.is

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Where the beat goes on

48-hours in Brighton Brighton is the United Kingdom’s most eccentric city, where the raffish, the refined and the slightly barmy exist together in harmony. by Christopher Kanal Photos: VisitBrighton.co.uk

Ever since the mad, bad Prince Regent, decided to build the Royal Pavilion here in 1786, a Xanadu-esque pleasure palace for his extravagant orgies perversely funded by wars and the public purse, Brighton has been the place where the UK likes to play. The city that invented the Dirty Week end, Brighton has drawn all manner of folk to its shores from smugglers and deviants to writers, artists and musicians. The role-call of the latter who pitched up here at some point or another is impressive from Aubrey Beardsley to Nick Cave. HIPSTER HEAVEN In recent years, Brighton‘s appeal has led to a big influx of new residents, particularly from London’s creative classes. This has in part brought the usual suspects of gentrification, hipster coffee houses and stratospheric property prices. But new arrivals have also reinvigorated the city. Brighton is now thriving with innovative startups leading to it being nicknamed “Silicon Beach.” Brighton is a city of ever-shifting paradoxes, which is what makes it such an exciting and intriguing place to visit. From the beginning of May when the Brighton Festival kicks off, into early August, when Gay Pride (www. brighton-pride.org) hits town bringing hundreds of thousands of revelers, Brighton is a year-round destination and its character changes through the seasons. Come winter, and with it, epic skies, dramatic storms and hypnotic sunsets over the sea, the city reawakens with a brooding beauty. Brighton is only 30 minutes by train from Gatwick Airport (www.nationalrail. co.uk). If arriving late or in the early hours, there are regular direct coach services throughout the night to the city (www.nationalexpress.com). DAY 1 On arrival in Brighton, the call of the sea beckons and most visitors’ first instinct is to head straight to the beach. From directly outside the station, the sea is a 10-minute walk straight ahead down Queens Road. Alternatively, go under the bridge beneath the station down Trafalgar Street and saunter at leisure through the bustling North Laines that run parallel to Queens Road.

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BRIGHTON’S BEACH The seafront is expansive and at its liveliest between the Palace Pier and the West Pier along Kings Road Arches. At one end, the glitzy Palace Pier, with its amusement arcades, fish & chip shops, cabaret and rock candy, is a guilty pleasure. At the other end and perfectly encapsulating Brighton’s schizoid dichotomy is the abandoned skeleton of the West Pier, a solemn Victorian wreck that burned down twice over a decade ago and now, with every passing year and a poetry all of its own, sinks further into the sea. Between the two piers are numerous beachside cafes and bars. In the middle, it’s hard to miss the Fortune of War, dating back to 1882 and with an exterior resembling a galleon. DJs from cult French radio station Fip often cross the La Manche to play here. On hot summer nights, impromptu beach parties spring up on the pebbles along the shore. A few doors down, Lucky Beach is a stylish cafe known for its deluxe, but reasonably priced, burgers. Nearby opposite the Fishing Museum is the Brighton Shellfish & Oyster Bar, a novel shack on the beach. After walking the length of the Palace Pier, jump onto the Volks Railway (the world’s oldest) where you can reach Brighton Marina past the beaches where Mods

From the beginning of May when the Brighton Festival kicks off, into early August, when Gay Pride hits town bringing hundreds of thousands of revelers, Brighton is a yearround destination and its character changes through the seasons. Come winter, and with it, epic skies, dramatic storms and hypnotic sunsets over the sea, the city reawakens with a brooding beauty.

Photo: Adam Bronkhorst

wives. v

and Rockers beat the daylights out of each other in the 60s and 70s. If you walk in the direction of the West Pier, the seafront becomes quieter. That is set to change this summer with the opening of the divisive i360 observation tower. Behind the iconic multicolored beach huts and ornate Band Stand are impressive Regency Squares and a maze of quirky streets. Hidden among them on Waterloo Street is the petite church of St Andrews, a delightful Italian Renaissance gem designed by Sir Charles Barry, the architect responsible for the Houses of Parliament. THE LANES The heart of Brighton is the Lanes that in the 18th century, was a hideout for smugglers. In the area around Bartholomew Square, there are high street labels like All Saints and Reiss, smart restaurants, antique shops and old boozers including Brighton Rock, author Graham Greene’s haunt, The Cricketers. Tucked away at the end of Little East Street in a former fisherman’s cottage is Scandinavian bar Northern Lights, known for its flavored vodkas—one is made with tar. A few steps away is the new and very relaxed Twisted Lemon, with 73 cocktails on the menu. Across the road is Fabrica, a very active art space that leads down

to busy North Street. Crossing here brings you to the Royal Pavilion and the Brighton Museum (www.brightonmuseums. org.uk), which holds an impressive collection of Egyptian artifacts. Looking east across the gardens to the Old Steine is Kemp Town, that has Brighton’s best gay clubs (www.gscene. com), gorgeous grand Georgian houses and finest boutique hotels such as Drakes, with its classy cocktail bar and an acclaimed fine dining restaurant.

Newcomer Chilli Pickle on Jubilee Street, next to the Library, with its modern take on Indian fusion cuisine, has become a city favorite. For a more traditional lunch or Sunday roast, the Basket Makers on Gloucester Street is hard to beat. Locally sourced meat and fish is served from noon every day. This atmospheric pub has an impressive selection of real ales.

DAY 2 The Pavilion Gardens mark the beginning of the North Laines, the idiosyncratic sister to the rather more sensible Lanes.

OUT OF TOWN Fifteen-minutes’ train ride away from Brighton is the pretty market town of Lewes, famous for its riotous bonfire celebrations every November 5th. Lewes’ Norman Castle is well worth a wander around as is Anne of Cleves House, a 15th century Tudor home built for one of Henry VIII’s wives. v

NORTH LAINES Stretched over a dozen streets you will find vintage clothing shops, art galleries, bespoke fashion boutiques and countless cafes and bars. Highlights with real local character include The Dorset on North Road, a lively restaurant and bar with plenty of street-side seating. Then there’s Snoopers Paradise, a fantastic flea market trove on Kensington Gardens and the passionately independent organic supermarket, Infinity Foods. For decent coffee and atmosphere head to Silo, the UK’s first zero-waste cafe and restaurant, where steamed milk is used to make cheese, or the friendly Pelicano on Sydney Street, with its numerous vintage shops and oriental market. A longstanding institution, The Wax Factor on nearby Trafalgar Street is the place to go for rare vinyl.

WOW air offers cheap flights to London Gatwick from USA, Canada and Iceland. From Gatwick, you can catch a train directly to Brighton or London. Just pick a city! While you’re at it, add a little Reykjavik to your trip by making a WOW Stopover in Iceland. There are bright days ahead in Brighton. Check out www.visitbrighton.com for more information about this Great Britain gem.

THE ICELANDIC

PENIS MUSEUM We

Brighton has a legendary music scene, with live performances. For gigs, check out listings at BN1 Magazine (www.bn1magazine.co.uk). Two of the best venues stand opposite each other on Trafalgar Street, the Prince Albert and the Green Door Store—perfect if you want to party all night (www.thegreendoorstore.co.uk).

Dicks!

The Icelandic Phallological Museum is one of the most informative, humorous, and unusual museums in the world. The world famous “Penis museum” in Reykjavik is the only museum in the world to contain a collection of phallic specimens belonging to all the various types of mammal found in a single country. The founder, Sigurður Hjartarson started the collection 40 years ago and made it first accessible to the public in 1997 with the opening of the museum. The Icelandic Phallological Museum contains a collection of more than 220 penises and penile parts belonging to all the land and sea mammals that can be found in Iceland. There is also a foreign section that holds more than forty examples and a folklore section that has some twenty pieces on display. All in all, more than 380 biological examples. In addition to the biological section of the museum, visitors can view a collection of about 350 artistic oddments and practical utensils related to the museum’s chosen theme. The museum is in a 250 square meter location on the upper part of Reykjavik’s main shopping street, Laugavegur, only a 10 minutes walk from the city’s centre. There is a souvenir corner with a small exclusive selection of things related to the museum’s theme.

Seeing is believing! No pornography or offensive material in the museum.

Issue three 113 Laugavegur 116 • 105 Reykjavík • Tel.: (+354) 561-6663 (+354) 690 3774• phallus@phallus.is • www.phallus.is Opening hours: Summer: Daily from10 am - 6 pm • Winter: Daily from 11 am -6 pm • Next to Hlemmur bus station

ns WOW destinatio

YOU WANT MORE? WOW! We’ve been starting services to a lot of new destinations recently but that doesn’t mean that our other routes have been forgotten. WOW air now has 28 destinations and there are still more to come. You can also check out our destinations at wowair.com. BOSTON The city that’s famous for Cheers and good shopping. WOW air offers cheap flights to Boston from Iceland 4-6 times a week all year round. Connecting flights* to Boston are available from most WOW destinations in Europe.

ALICANTE Warm up by the Mediterranean Sea and taste the best of Spain. WOW air offers cheap flights to Alicante from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, four times a week during the summer months and 1-3 times a week from March to May and September to January.

COPENHAGEN The former capital of Iceland is still a favorite among Icelanders and now’s your chance to find out why.

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EDINBURGH Enjoy Scottish hospitality, listen to the smooth sounds of bagpipes, swim with the Loch Ness Monster, taste the national dish—haggis—and wash it all down with some fine Scottish whiskey. We guarantee you’ll get hooked on Scotland! WOW air offers two flights* a week to Edinburgh from USA, Canada and Iceland until the end of October.

FRANKFURT Frankfurt am Main, aka “Mainhattan” is Germany’s most cosmopolitan city but that doesn’t mean history isn’t appreciated there. When you visit Frankfurt don’t miss out on the Mosel Valley for a taste of Germany’s best wines. Prost!

WOW air offers cheap flights* to Amsterdam from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round.

Getting there is the easy part. WOW air offers 2-4 flights a week to Barcelona from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, from the middle of May until October.

WOW air flies to Düsseldorf, Germany from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, twice a week during the summer months.

WOW air offers several flights* a week to Copenhagen from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round.

AMSTERDAM A city of art, architecture, cool people and canals, and don’t forget windmills, weird wooden shoes and tulips. Amsterdam is a fairytale and a great place to visit.

BARCELONA Barcelona truly is the perfect destination; tasty tapas, seaside promenades and mind-blowing architecture.

DÜSSELDORF This great city on the Rhine is famous for its art and culture, luxury fashion and lifestyle.

DUBLIN Ireland’s capital has become a modern European city without losing the grip on its Irish roots and just a stone’s throw away is the spectacular Irish nature. WOW air offers several flights* a week to Dublin from USA, Canada and Iceland all year round.

WOW air offers flights* to Frankfurt am Main from USA, Canada and Iceland several times a week all year round. GRAN CANARIA The city of Las Palmas in Gran Canaria is a new destination because we love getting our guests into the sun during the winter. WOW air offers weekly flights to Gran Canaria from Iceland from February to May 2016.

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PARIS The city of lights sparkles with art, culture and culinary delights. Experience the passionate Paris and all it has to offer. Just say Oui! WOW air offers cheap flights* to Paris from USA, Canada and Iceland several times a week all year round.

Pack your skis; WOW air flies to Salzburg from Iceland once a week from December to March. TENERIFE Relaxing on a tropical island sounds like a dream and Tenerife is a dream come true.

LYON Experience the gastronomic capital of France with all its history and vibrant cultural scene.

WOW air offers weekly flights to Tenerife Sur from Iceland all year round and twice a week in January, February and March.

WOW air flies to Lyon from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, twice a week during the summer months.

VILNIUS Are you hungry for something different? Visit the capital of Lithuania and see the UNESCO World Heritage listed Old Town.

MILAN Get ready for high fashion and high culture and don’t forget to feast your eyes on da Vinci’s Last Supper. WOW air flies to Milan, Italy from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, 2-3 times a week from June to September.

SALZBURG Looking for that perfect winter destination? European ski resorts are known for being budget friendly and the Austrian Alps’ best ski resorts are just a short drive from Salzburg Airport.

WOW air offers flights between Vilnius and Iceland once a week during the summer. ROME All roads lead to Rome but we’re going to fly to this most famous world capital.

WARSAW The capital of Poland has some historic charisma and is a great destination if you’re on a budget.

WOW air offers cheap flights to Rome from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, once a week from the end of June to September.

WOW air offers flights to Warsaw from Iceland, with available connections from USA and Canada, three times a week during the summer months and weekly from September to January and in April and May.

The WOW Stopover When flying between North America and Europe take advantage of our WOW Stopover option.

MariaMarcone

NICE Join us in the capital of the French Riviera and let the Mediterranean climate warm you up. WOW air flies to Nice from Iceland two times a week from June to September.

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The WOW Stopover allows you to visit Iceland at no additional airfare. It’s kind of like getting two vacations for the price of one. Find out more at wowair.com * Note that the availability of connecting flights between USA and Europe may vary depending on the flight frequency to each city. WOW air connects London, Bristol, Edinburgh, Dublin, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Paris, Stockholm, Alicante, Barcelona, Lyon, Milan, Rome and Warsaw to Boston, Washington, D.C., Los Angeles and San Francisco in the US and Toronto and Montréal in Canada.

Your activity tour operator in Iceland since 1983

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Issue three 117

Rafting • Ice Climbing • Snorkeling • Diving • Glacier Hike • Canoeing • Hiking • Kayaking • Cycling • Surfing • Boat Ride • Hot Spring • Swimming • Climbing Super-Jeep • Caving • Horse Riding • Sightseeing • Snowmobile • Whale Watching • ATV • Incentive • Skiing • Mountain Hut • Camping • Combo Trips

www.adventures.is

THIS AND THAT …

MOSTLY THIS

The only app you’ll need in Iceland

You are welcome

The BeIceland app will surely become your secret weapon when in Iceland. This travel app is really the only app you’ll need if you’re traveling in Iceland and it’s used by visitors and locals alike. The app can be downloaded for free for both Android and IOS devices and allows you to book various adventures and sight-seeing tours and receive vouchers within the app. Based on your location BeIceland can help you locate most of Iceland’s amazing natural attractions and historic places, towns, hotels, camp sites and restaurants which can be filtered according to your favorite food. The app even helps you find ATMs and recycling stations should you need them. Don’t have a smartphone? Take a look at the BeIceland website at beiceland.is, where you can start planning your travels in Iceland right now.

Despite a great influx of travel ers from around the world wanting to check out our little capital, the vast majority of inhabitants of the capital area still have a favorable view of tourists. According to a survey carried out in April for Visit Reykjavík, the majority of respondents take pride in living in a city, which is welcoming to visitors, and a majority believe that residents are hospitable towards tourists. Tourists themselves also meet with approval—the vast

majority feels that visitors are friendly toward local people. A majority expressed the view that the positive aspects of tourism, such as an increase in leisure activities and services available to tourists and locals alike, out weighed the negative ones, like buses driving through narrow residential streets at 6 am, and that increased tourist numbers had a positive effect on the economy of the capital area. Welcome to Reykjavik!

First and foremost, I am

High fashion for a humanitarian cause One of the best-kept secrets of the Reykjavík shopping scene is the Red Cross clothes shops in downtown Reykjavík. Recently renovated, they have never looked better—both in terms of a general façade, but most importantly, a much wider and impressive selection of highly fashionable items, usually available for truly laughable prices. Although the Red Cross secondhand shops and thrift stores are a world-known brand, the shops in Iceland have a unique advantage; Iceland is a consumer based and highly fashion-minded nation. Icelanders buy so much clothing that they have to give the old ones away, even when the old ones aren’t really old or worn much at all. Last year the Red Cross collected 2300 tons of clothing or roughly seven kilos per each individual. This is hardly good for the environment and leaves us with an enormous carbon footprint, unless these clothes can somehow be put to good use, increasing their lifespan. Everybody wins! Red Cross humanitarian projects reap the benefits; our carbon footprint is reduced immensely, not to mention the customers, who will no doubt get to show off some unique, fashionable duds, leaving the shops with a clear conscience. You’ll find the Red Cross Shops at Laugavegur 12, Laugavegur 116 and Skólavörðustígur 12 in downtown Reykjavik. Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10 am – 6 pm, Sat: 12 noon – 4 pm.

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The ethical questions of man’s authority to decide who gets to live and who doesn’t are the issues addressed in Sigga Ella’s series of photographs which she calls “First and foremost I am.” The book features 21 portraits of people with Down’s syndrome as well as a personal text from each one and small essays from parents and siblings. All of Sigga Ella’s photos are shot with a green chair against a floral backdrop which help show the diversity and beauty of humankind. Sigga Ella chose people of all ages and both genders wanting to depict each person as an individual, a human being just like everyone else who shouldn’t be judged by the numbers of chromosomes in his or her DNA. “I got the idea for this project when I heard a discussion of these matters on the radio. They were talking about using technology to pick and choose who should be born and who shouldn’t. These ethical questions greatly interest me. Where are we heading? Is it toward eliminating all individuals with Down’s syndrome? My father’s sister had Down’s syndrome and her name was Bergfríður Jóhannsdóttir aka Aunt Begga. I have a very hard time putting Down’s syndrome’s elimination and Aunt Begga together in the same thought,” says Sigga Ella. The photo series, which has gotten rave reviews all over the world, has now been published as a book, a project crowdfunded through Karolinafund.com. The book is available at Icelandic bookstores Mál & Menning, Penninn and Iða.

THIS AND THAT …

MOSTLY THIS

by Fjóla Helgadóttir

Daily tours

all year round

e golden circ h T le

a on

their universe. Together Auður and Íris seek out and showcase Icelandic homes that express individuality and people who have carefully created homes that tell a story and provide insight into their artistic personality.

Take a look at the beautiful and unique Icelandic homes at www.islanders.is.

nowmobilin ds g an

Islanders.is is an interior website created by two Icelanders (or Islanders), interior designer Auður Gná and photographer Íris Ann, whose goal is to give their readers a unique insight into carefully selected homes, primarily in Iceland. Auður and Íris joined hands in Iceland to document some of the most interesting homes and people they have come across. Diversity and distinctiveness is what Islanders.is strives to represent with each Islander that let them into

super truc k

The way we live

Feeding The Mountain Weighing 180 kilograms (395 pounds) and measuring 2.06 meters (6 foot 9 inches) tall professional strongman Hafthor “Thor” Bjornsson obviously needs some fuel to maintain his massive build. But how much fuel? Often nicknamed “The Mountain” after his character in the Game of Thrones TV series, Hafthor recently shared his daily diet on his Instagram account and the amounts of fuel needed to keep this giant of a man running are more staggering than you could imagine. Aside from loading up on proteins from eggs, meat and nuts Hafthor chows down on veggies and carbohydrates every couple of hours. Just to keep himself running smoothly he also wakes up during the night to have a bite. Here’s Hafthor’s post about his diet but remember he is preparing for the World’s Strongest Man 2016 so don’t even think about trying this yourself: 6:50 7:30 9:30 11:50 12:00 14:00 14:30 17:30 18:00 20:30 22:30

Morning workout! Cardio + CORE for 30 min BCAA Hardcore from Chained Nutrition, Glutamine from Star Nutrition + handful of almonds 8 eggs + 200 g oats + blueberries and strawberries + avocado 400 g beef, 400 g sweet potatoes, handful of spinach and greens BCAA Hardcore from Chained Nutrition, glutamine from Star Nutrition 400 g chicken + 400 g potatoes, greens + some fruits Blender = 150gr oats or sweet potatoes, 2 bananas, 150 g Kellogg’s Rice Krispies, frozen berries, handful of almonds, peanut butter and glutamine from Star Nutrition Training Strongman, BCAA Hardcore from Chained Nutrition, glutamine from Star Nutrition, Vitargo 60 g protein + 2 bananas 500 g beef + potatoes, greens 500 g salmon + 500 g sweet potatoes 50 g casein protein from Star Nutrition or 6 eggs + avocado + 30 g almonds + 50 g peanut butter Drink a lot of water throughout the day + juices to get more calories!! In the middle of the night: 50 g casein protein or raw eggs.

Tel. (+354) 580 9900 ice@mountaineers.is www.mountaineers.is

Your Ticket to Adventure Issue three 119

THIS AND THAT …

MOSTLY THIS

More travelers – bigger planes WOW air is getting bigger, adding routes and destinations on both sides of the Atlantic. To go all the way to the US East Coast, we needed bigger planes and when the first one arrived, on our birthday no less, we had a little celebration at Keflavik so everyone could check it out. The aircraft WOW air selected to

take us further are Airbus A330, wide-body jets with two aisles. Up until this summer, WOW air had been operating A321 and A320 aircraft so these giants are a big step up and they’ve garnered a lot of attention since they are the biggest commercial jets used in flights to and from Iceland.

WOW air on TripAdvisor We love giving you that WOW feeling and servicing our guests with a smile. WOW air is on TripAdvisor and we would love to get your fair and honest feedback after your travels. Help us out by giving us your review. We hope it’s a good one but we welcome all feedback so we can do even better in the future.

Reykjavik loves football As some might have noticed the UEFA European Football Champi onship in France is upon us. For those of us that are not actually traveling to France to support our national team it‘s good to know that an official Fanzone has been opened at Ingolfstorg in downtown Reykjavik and is open to the public throughout the competition until July 10. All matches (apart from those played simultaneously in the last round of the group stage) will be shown along with family friendly entertainment. The event is prompted by the participation of the Icelandic men‘s football team in the European championship, a unique event in Icelandic sporting history. A the football fanzone in Ingolfstorg the city of Reykjavik hopes to recreate the atmosphere of the terraces at the football stadia in France and add a little color and excitement to the city-center experience. Entrance to the fanzone is free for all and everything will be geared towards families. Don‘t miss out on your national team‘s game or just come to support Iceland with the locals.

Olafur Eliasson’s Waterfall, 2016. Crane, water, stainless steel, pump system, hose, ballast. Palace of Versailles, 2016. Photo: Anders Sune Berg. Courtesy of the artist; neugen•iemschneider, Berlin; Tanya Bonakdar Gallery, New York © Olafur Eliasson

Gigantic fountain for Versailles Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson has set up a giant fountain at Versailles, which guests can view from the palace. A big fountain was actually featured in the original plans for the 17th-century palace, drawn up by the “Sun King,” Lois XIV’s architect Andre Le Notre. The fountain never became a reality despite attempts to pump water over a hill from the River Seine. Eliasson’s fountain at Versailles will by no means be the first water-related art in the artist’s career as he wowed New Yorkers with his 10-story urban waterfalls in 2008 and the people of Paris with his Ice Watch, huge melting icebergs from Greenland on the occasion of the COP21 Climate Conference in 2015. Eliasson says this latest project in France is about making dreams come true. “We’re going to make the impossible possible,” said the artist who’s also made several other installments inside the palace, such as brilliant installations of mirrors and light inside the palace rooms. On the palace grounds, he’s created an enchanted fog in two groves of the palace’s vast gardens, where he hopes the public will fully enjoy themselves For the last eight years, the Palace of Versailles has hosted a series of exhibitions that see internationally-acclaimed artists forming a dialogue between their own work and the architecture of the French landmark. “The Versailles that I have been dreaming up is a place that empowers everyone,“ Eliasson says. “It invites visitors to take control of the authorship of their experience instead of simply consuming and being dazzled by the grandeur. It asks them to exercise their senses, to embrace the unexpected, to drift through the gardens, and to feel the landscape take shape through their movement.“ Eliasson’s fountains and installations will be showcased at Versailles until October 30 this year.

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Amazing 7 course menu

A unique Icelandic Feast Starts with a shot of the Icelandic national spirit “Brennivín“ Puffin – Smoked puffin with blueberries, croutons, goat cheese, beetroot Minke whale – Date purée, wakame, teriaky “Torched“ Arctic charr – Cucumber, truffle ponzu vinaigrette and yuzu mayo Reindeer – Reindeer slider with blue cheese, portobello, steamed bun Icelandic roll, 4 pcs – Gravlax roll with Brennivín and dill. Avokado, mango, cucumber, dill mayo, rye bread crumble Rack of icelandic lamb – Lamb with onion purée, slow cooked leeks, chimichurri, baked carrot And to end on a high note ... Icelandic Skyr – Skyr infused with birch, berries, white chocolate crumble, and sorrel granite Our kitchen is open 17.00–23.00 sun.–thu. 17.00–24.00 fri.–sat.

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look!

7.990 kr.

Sushi Samba Þingholtsstræti 5 • 101 Reykjavík Tel 568 6600 • sushisamba.is

WHAT’S GOING ON OVER HERE? QUITE A LOT ACTUALLY, AND IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO GO YOU CAN LIVE EACH NIGHT IN ICELAND LIKE THERE’S A FULL BLOWN FESTIVAL GOING ON.

WHAT: Culture in the Freezer When: Sundays through Thursdays in June, July and August Where: The Freezer Hostel, Rif, West Iceland The Freezer Hostel is an award-winning social hostel, culture center, professional theater and artist’s residency in rural Iceland. Here Icelandic arts, culture and local hospitality come together to create unforgettable memories for those looking for the complete West Icelandic

WHAT: Fairy Fools and Fantastic Adventures WHEN: June 3 – September 26 WHERE: Reykjavik City Library, Culture House Grófin, Tryggvagata 15

experience. As a professional theater, The Freezer produces new shows, performed in English and created by local artists. All of the shows in this fish factory style theater have received rave reviews and the Freezer has an excellent reputation for creating very entertaining high quality shows. The shows are usually inspired by sagas and stories from West Iceland, as its main goal is to rejuvenate these sometimes forgotten tales and make them come alive for new audiences in an exciting and unforgettable way. In the summer of 2016, The Freezer will be running an ambitious 12-week program of five individual shows a week, all performed by their team of professional actors. The program includes two new shows; Genesis and One Night Stand (Up) with Grandma Dídí, and three of their most critically acclaimed ones; MAR, HERO and 21:07. On top of all this, The Freezer sits right next door to all the natural wonders of Snæfellsjökull Glacier National Park and is in a perfect spot for witnessing the northern lights during the winter, a spectacular show in itself.

An unconventional exhibition space now holds a collection of comics by Þórey Mjallhvít. Located in the comic department on the second floor of the Reykjavík City Library and open until late September this year, the exhibition is a collection of comics, sketches and illustrations by Þórey. The focus is on material from her most recent work, a graphic novel about Ormhildur, the librarian, which will be published in September. Ormhildur is based on Icelandic folklore, describing an apocalyptic future where the glaciers have melted and monsters from folktales run loose. Þórey Mjallhvít graduated with a B.A. in animation from the University of Wales. She also has a master’s degree in creative writing from the University of Iceland. Thorey has written short stories, scripts and other tidbits.

For more information, booking and special events go to www.thefreezerhostel.com

Go to www.mjallhvit.is to view more of Þórey‘s work.

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look!

WHAT’S GOING ON OVER HERE?

WHAT: Dark Deeds in Reykjavik—a walking tour through the shadier side of literary Reykjavik WHEN: Every Thursday in June, July and August at 3 PM WHERE: City Library’s main branch at Grófin, Tryggvagata 15

Located in Hverfisgata 54, 101 Reykjavik.

A movie lover’s paradise Located in the heart of downtown Reykjavik, Bio Paradís is a nonprofit organization run by Iceland’s professional filmmaking guilds. Screening the latest art-house releases from all around the world, as well as cult films and Icelandic films, it is Iceland’s first and only art-house cinema. The theater provides a warm, cozy environment for film lovers of all kinds—both in its three-screen theater and its well-stocked bar.

Events in June and July 2016

WHAT: Happy Hour WHEN: Every day from 5-7 PM

a movie theater surrounded by others just like you, who can also recite the lines!

No need to explain, happy hour means the same in Iceland as everywhere else. This summer there will also be live football on the big screen and extra specials at the bar.

July 1 – Footloose July 22 – Clueless August 5 – Little Shop of Horrors August 26 – A Clockwork Orange

WHAT: Screening of cult classics WHEN: Some, but not all, Fridays at 8 PM Check out Bíó Paradís’ screening schedule at: www.bioparadis.is

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The Reykjavik City Library hosts the Dark Deeds Literary Walking Tour in English, every summer, focusing on the shadier side of Reykjavik as it appears in folktales, ghost stories and modern fiction. Guided by know ledgeable library staff, the tour takes you on a walk between locations in downtown Reykjavik, directly (or less directly) connected to various literary texts. In Grjótaþorp, the oldest part of Reykjavik, a reading from Sjóns Moonstone (to be published in the English translation this fall) conjures up the image of a plaguestricken Reykjavik in 1918 when 60% of the city’s population fell ill with the Spanish flu. At the National Theater, an excerpt from the king of Icelandic crime fiction Arnaldur Indriðason’s The Man from Manitoba takes us back to the windswept streets of Reykjavik during the Second World War. The Corpse Cat and ancient ghost Glam also make chilling appearances… The Dark Deeds Literary Walk takes around an hour and a half, is free of charge and suitable to all. Every Thursday at 2 pm, the library screens the documentary Spirits of Iceland: Living with Elves, Trolls and Ghosts at the Kamesið screening room on the library’s fifth floor. The film is about 45 minutes long and an excellent warm-up for the walking tour. Should you wish to take the walk by yourself, The Reykjavik Culture Walks app, developed by the Reykjavik City Library and Reykjavik UNESCO City of Literature, is free and available for download for Android and iPhone. It contains literary walks in English and German through Reykjavik.

WHAT: Reykjavík Midsummer Music WHEN: 16 - 19 June WHERE: Harpa, Reykjavík’s concert hall Four days, seven concerts and 18 exceptional musicians! For the fifth year in a row, Reykjavík Midsummer Music brings exceptional musicians from the international concert stage together with the best and the brightest of Iceland’s vibrant music scene. The result is a few bright summer nights of excellent music-making in Harpa. This year, the festival theme is the Wanderer. The program takes you wandering through diverse musical landscapes, from the reassuringly familiar to the mysterious, unknown and thrilling and even into outer space.

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The artistic director is Víkingur Ólafsson. Tickets and festival passes are available at www.rmm.is and the Harpa Box Office.

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moneygram.is Service number: +354 580 1200 For calls to this number from mobile phones an additional fee may be charged by your provider.

ÂŠ2016 MoneyGram. MoneyGram and the Globe are registered trademarks of MoneyGram. All other marks are the property of their respective owner. MoneyGram International Limited is authorised and regulated in the United Kingdom by the Financial Conduct Authority. Issue three 123

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WHAT’S GOING ON OVER HERE?

WHAT: Drangey Music Festival WHEN: June 25 WHERE: Reykir in Reykjaströnd, North Iceland Drangey Music Festival is a brand new and exciting music festival that will take place for the second time at Reykir, Reykjastrond. The festival is held where the road ends and the view of Drangey Island is the best. The festival is a collaboration between Drangeytours and the people who created the Braedslan Music Festival in Borgar fjörður eystri on the east coast of Iceland. The concert will take place on an outdoor stage in spectacular nature. Performing at the festival are some of Iceland’s largest musical talents such as Retro Stefson, Sverrir Bergmann and Ulfur Ulfur, in addition to local performers. This is a small and intimate festival held during the summer solstice in a spectacular setting so you should expect something entirely unique.

WHAT: The Reykjavik Jazz Festival WHEN: August 10-14 WHERE: Harpa, Reykjavik’s Concert Hall

Find tickets to the Drangey Music Festival at midi.is

A detailed program and ticket information will soon be available on www.reykjavikjazz.is. You can find and follow the event on Facebook under: Rvk.jazz.

The Reykjavik Jazz Festival will celebrate its 25th anniversary this year and will kick off with its family oriented parade through town where everyone is encouraged to bring an instrument and take part. There will be over 20 events with Icelandic as well as international bands, free events at happy hour, masterclasses and late night jam sessions.

WHAT: ATP Iceland – music festival WHEN: 1-3 July WHERE: Ásbrú, old NATO military base, Keflavík All Tomorrows Parties events have been held all over the world for nearly fourteen years and in Iceland since 2013. ATP is famous for focusing on an intimate and fan-based atmosphere with a unique combination of performances from legendary and influential acts to up

and coming experimental artists from every music genre. And the lineup at ATP Iceland this year is huge! To name a few: John Carpenter, Sleep, Thee Oh Sees, Ty Segall and The Muggers, Angel Olsen, Les Savy Fav, Tortoise, Anika, Yasmine Hamdan, Blanck Mass, and many more, yet to be announced. Find tickets at midi.is.

WHAT: STOMP WHEN: 11 and 12 June WHERE: Harpa Concert Hall The critically acclaimed STOMP group is back in Iceland this June with their amazing beats and ability to make music from the strangest things! A kitchen sink and a trash can lid? Music to our ears! You’ll find tickets to STOMP at tix.is

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All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com

Issue three 125

LIBRA

23 SEPTEMBER - 23 OCTOBER

ARIES

21 MARCH - 19 APRIL That hot barista was totally coming on to you while serving you coffee this morning, right? But you should know that this person is in a cult that worships the wooly mammoth Elzank and doesn’t believe in bathing.

TAURUS

Your application to become a WOW SnapTraveler (see page 30) has been received. It‘s the best laugh we’ve had at the office since sliced bread. Thank you for that.

SCORPIO

24 OCTOBER - 21 NOVEMBER You snapchat stories are pretty boring. Could you please crank things up a notch? People are actually watching this you know!

20 APRIL - 20 MAY They said that this would be the dawning of the age of Aquarius but when will the age of Taurus be upon us? If you want something to happen, you might just have to do it yourself or become grand enough to get minions.

SAGITTARIUS

22 NOVEMBER - 21 DECEMBER The stars have finally forgiven you and have decided to sprinkle good fortune on your path. If you get hit by any of it, you have only yourself to blame.

GEMINI

21 MAY - 21 JUNE The children’s program on TV is a great source of inspiration to you. Just don’t let anyone who works with you know that all your great ideas come to you after getting high and watching Spongebob. It might impact your career in a very negative way.

CAPRICORN

22 DECEMBER - 19 JANUARY That empty inbox strategy is really working out for you. But, of course, it’s easy to keep your inbox clutter-free when nobody sends you an email, ever!

AQUARIUS CANCER

22 JUNE - 22 JULY Hey blondie, have you considered giving up on that whole flying thing and coming to work full-time at the office? The stars think you should!

20 JANUARY - 18 FEBRUARY Time to start riding that bicycle, that WOW Cyclothon dream (see pages 18-21) isn’t going to come true on its own. Go on, git!

PISCES

LEO

23 JULY - 22 AUGUST Have you ever wondered what happens to the things you type in but that don’t register anywhere on your screen? Somewhere, someone is writing a bad novel made up entirely of such texts.

19 FEBRUARY - 20 MARCh If you really want to know the truth, try asking the children. They will always give it to you straight. But don’t come crying to us when they tell you that you’re a poo-poo head.

VIRGO

23 AUGUST - 22 SEPTEMBER You decide to go off the grid for a moment, closing all your social media accounts, turning off your email and phone and disconnecting the internet. Phew, those were some scary 10 minutes!

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Disclaimer: This horoscope is total and utter nonsence. Any accuracies, real or imagined by readers, are purely incidental.

Issue three 127

WOW SUDOKU BUT HOW DO I DO IT?

REALLY, REALLY BORED? HERE ARE A FEW SUDOKUS TO MAKE TIME FLY.

The object is to insert the numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: Each row, column and 3x3 box must contain the digits 1 through 9 exactly once. What could be simpler?

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Issue three 129

THE TRAVELING INQUISITION

IN THE FAST LANE WITH GRANDMA DÍDÍ She’s an entertainer, a bingo host and a tour guide. Grandma Dídí is a funny and friendly character you can meet in the town of Rif on Snæfellsnes Peninsula in West Iceland. Snæfellsnes Peninsula is of course her favorite place in Iceland but her favorite place abroad is Gran Canaria.

by Svava Jónsdóttir Photos: From private collection

“I’m everyone’s grand mother. If you need a grandmother you call me. I am an entertainer and I love it.” Grandma Dídí is indeed a very busy lady. “I do all kinds of jobs to keep myself busy. I like diversity. First of all, I’m an entertainer; I host bingo nights for example. I just love bingo, which anyone can see because I also have very nice bingo muscles. Sometimes, I’m a tour guide. I have guided groups on the Golden Circle for example but most recently I have been doing city walks in the town of Rif on Snæfellsnes Peninsula. I always take my melodica with me and play a few of my favorite songs for the walkers. My latest project is a show, a comedy actually, and I’m really funny in it.” Grandma Dídí is also a former beauty queen. “Don’t tell anyone; there were only two of us competing.” “I’m letting the audience in on my secrets and teaching them how to be sexy after sixty and shockingly hot after seventy, how to pick up younger men and how we control and keep our neckline in place. “

A ONE NIGHT STAND (UP) One Night Stand (Up) with Grandma Dídí is a part of the 2016 summer theater season of The Freezer at Rif. “It’s a comedy show, a mix of stand up, golden life advice, live music and physical comedy. I tell you my hilarious life story, which is tightly tangled up in the history of Icelandic culture and music. The show is built up like a training workshop; I’m letting the audience in on my secrets and teaching them how to be sexy after sixty and shockingly hot after seventy, how to pick up younger men and how we control and keep our neckline in place. Trust me, I know all the answers and if you’re lucky, I will invite you to play a round of a blissful bingo.” Icelandic twisted doughnuts, aka kleinur, are also included in the show. “They’re very yummy; I bake them myself.” SNÆFELLSNES AND GRAN CANARIA Grandma Dídí loves her beautiful country. What are her favorite places in Iceland? “I have to say Snæfellsnes Peninsula. I can’t get enough of the energy from Snæfellsnes Glacier and the national park. My oh my, what a beauty! I also want to mention Þorlákshöfn in the south of Iceland or as I call it: Costa del Þolló. It’s a really popular surfing area and I love surfing there… And I love being surrounded by the beautiful surfers. But what I look for when I travel is first of all, nature. I am a

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huge nature fan. I love being surrounded by it. It’s like my oxygen.” Such an experienced lady must be a citizen of the world; or what? “Abroad, Gran Canaria is my favorite and I’ve been there many times. I feel so young there. I love going there to flirt, tan and play bingo. It’s such a relaxing atmosphere; I just love it.” Grandma Dídí has a funny story about one of her trips to the sunny island. “I will never forget it. I packed my sunscreen, went to the beach and a very handsome young man helped me to put my sunscreen on. After lounging in the sun all day I thought my days on this planet were numbered. What I’d thought was sunscreen wasn’t sunscreen at all. It was hair removal crème. Let’s just say

my skin was as red as the reddest lobster and I couldn’t wear clothes for the rest of the trip. I thank God for the cable TV at the hotel.” We can definitely recommend a self-drive tour around Snæfellsnes Peninsula and while you’re there check in at The Freezer Hostel and try to catch one of Grandma Dídí’s shows. “Bring a tissue for the laughing tears,” advises Grandma Dídí who will be performing in English at 8 PM every Tuesday this summer. v

For more information visit www.thefreezerhostel.com

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