Yankee Magazine May/June 2017 by Yankee Magazine

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Slow Boat on a Big Lake

All along its 120-mile reach, Lake Champlain has charms that are easy enough to see: jewel-like islands, laid-back towns, that stunning shoreline. To get at the lake’s essence, though, nothing beats the 24/7 adventure of a houseboat vacation.

Photographs by Little Outdoor Giants

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The Audacity of Liz Putnam

You may not know her name. You might never have heard of the groundbreaking conservation group she founded 60 years ago, or met any of the thousands of young people she’s inspired. But if you’ve ever been in a national park, you’ve stood in Liz Putnam’s shadow. By Mel Allen

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A Place to Get Away

A seasonal home but not quite a cottage, a woodsy retreat yet not really a cabin, the Maine summer camp has a history—and a soulful appeal—all its own.

By Wayne Curtis

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The Island Doctor

For our latest “Traditionalist” profile, we visit with Nantucket’s Dr. Tim Lepore, who dispenses medicine and caring in equal doses. By Ian Aldrich

Need a reason to travel this summer? You’ll find nearly 200 of them in our annual guide to dining, lodging, and attractions that are well worth the drive. ONLINE

See our editors’ picks for the top 10 summer events in each state at newengland.com/ summerevents2017

COURTESY OF THE DUNES ON THE WATERFRONT 2 | NEWENGLAND.COM Yankee (ISSN 0044-0191). Bimonthly, Vol. 81 No. 3. Publication Office, Dublin, NH 03444-0520. Periodicals postage paid at Dublin, NH, and additional offices. Copyright 2017 by Yankee Publishing Incorporated; all rights reserved. Postmaster: Send address changes to Yankee, P.O. Box 422446, Palm Coast, FL 32142-2446. May/June 2017 CONTENTS

features

Kicking back and soaking up the scenery on a Lake Champlain houseboat cruise.

ON THE COVER MAINE 108 NEW HAMPSHIRE 120 VERMONT 140 MASSACHUSETTS ................................................ 146 CONNECTICUT 163 RHODE ISLAND 166

Photograph by Little Outdoor Giants

EXTRA!

*** BEST BEACH RETREAT THE DUNES, OGUNQUIT, MAINE (p. 109)

Rolling on the Mississippi

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New England.com

Travel: New England’s Best Clam Shacks

In a salute to summer, we discover the top spots for a fried-clam fix.

NEWENGLAND.COM/ CLAMSHACKS

Recipes: Rhubarb Favorites

Add some sweetness to your life with our collection of easy and delicious rhubarb recipes.

NEWENGLAND.COM/ RHUBARB

Events: Sugar Hill Lupine Fest Stunning wildflowers take a seasonal spotlight in the New Hampshire mountain town of Sugar Hill.

NEWENGLAND.COM/ SUGARHILL

PREVIEW

Travel: 10 Terrific Seaside Inns

From Maine to Connecticut, these top-notch coastal getaways come with the best ocean views.

NEWENGLAND.COM/ SEASIDEINNS

INSIDE YANKEE ’S JUNE ISSUE

BEST COASTAL TOWNS: From Ogunquit to Newport, we explore our go-to seaside escapes.  COOKING WITH YANKEE: Strawberry-rhubarb co ee cake updates a family recipe.

PERFECT WEEKEND: Discover the early-summer charms of Manchester, Vermont.

PHOTO OPS: We showcase the season’s best photographs from our Instagram community. YANKEE CLASSIC: Editor Mel Allen digs into the archives to bring back a favorite story.

To subscribe to or learn more about Yankee’s digital issues, go to NewEngland.com/subscribe.

| 7 MAY | JUNE 2017 CATHY CHAPLIN (CLAM

BOX)

BEYOND THE PRINTED PAGE | Connect with New England

Social Media: Facebook.com/yankeemagazine, Twitter.com/yankeemagazine, Instagram.com/yankeemagazine, Pinterest.com/yankeemagazine

Clam Box, Ipswich, Massachusetts

KIM KNOX BECKIUS

Among those lending their expertise to the Best of New England [p. 107] is longtime contributing editor Beckius, author of six books on Northeast travel. Of the many memorable moments from her “Best” scouting trips, she singles this one out: “My daughter took one look at the tiny television in our room at the 19th-century Henry Collins Inn in Newport and asked me, ‘Are the TVs from the 1800s too?’”

LITTLE OUTDOOR GIANTS

The Massachusetts natives behind this photo-video outfit, Dom Casserly and Jarrod McCabe, report that documenting life on a houseboat [“Slow Boat on a Big Lake,” p. 70] had its challenges. But, they add, “watching the sun rise and set over the lake each day, catching fish for dinner, slowing our pace of life (to 8 mph, to be exact)—it all burns into your memory a little more when you have to work harder for it.”

WAYNE CURTIS

“Researching and writing a story from your own screened-in porch—that’s pretty ideal,” says Curtis of his essay “A Place to Get Away” [p. 92]. A lifelong freelance writer whose work has appeared in The Atlantic and The New York Times, among others, he began writing for Yankee back in 1987, and Mel Allen has been his editor here ever since—“which has to be some sort of a freelance record,” Curtis jokes.

SANDY RIVLIN

As half of the Massachusetts photography studio Hornick/Rivlin (the other half is husband Rick Hornick), Rivlin has spent 30-plus years creating images for businesses as well as publications like Cooking Light and The Boston Globe Magazine. Of her Yankee assignment [“A Shed of One’s Own,” p. 32], Rivlin says she was inspired by its focus on “women’s creativity, resourcefulness, and self-expression.”

J.P. SCHMELZER

This Wisconsin native is an award-winning fine artist and illustrator who once again playfully brings to life our Ask the Expert column [p. 28]. Last issue it was how to evict squirrels from attics; this time it’s about public speaking, aka “the best live theater there is,” in Schmelzer’s opinion. “Because in all cases the speaker has just one chance—and everything can go completely right or horribly wrong.”

MICHAEL SEAMANS

Boston Herald staff photographer, Seamans is a self-described travel junkie who’s taken pictures all over the U.S., China, Europe, and Nicaragua. But shooting “A ‘Very Impressive Rock’” [p. 20] gave the New Hampshire resident the chance to sight-see in his own backyard, as he traveled to the legendary Madison Boulder. “You can’t appreciate how large it is,” he says, “until you see it in person.”

The Story Continues

When planning began last year for the feature “City of Hope,” our aim was to tell the story of how a wave of newcomers— specifically African immigrants—was helping to revitalize the former mill town of Lewiston, Maine. By the time the piece appeared in our March/April issue, though, the national debate over immigration had given our readers another lens through which to view the story. “City of Hope” has received a lot of reactions from across the spectrum; here are two that we respectfully share.

I just read the lengthy feature on African immigrants in Lewiston, Maine, and found the article so carefully slanted as to be very one-sided. The whole immigrant infiltration experience was presented as being a positive experience for all in Lewiston, but the article dwelt on immigrants and their lives and didn’t say much about the other Lewiston residents and how this immigration affected them....

But my chief complaint is that I don’t subscribe to Yankee for social relevance. I get plenty of that everywhere else. Yankee shouldn’t do politics.

Mary Weston

Dover, New Hampshire

My maternal grandmother was born in 1904 in the tiny town of Wales, Maine, just northeast of Lewiston, the eldest of 13 children. There was no high school in her small town, so in order to graduate with a secondary education she had to board during the school year with kind folks in Lewiston, who took her in and treated her as their own....

My grandmother would be so proud of the state of Maine and of her adopted city of Lewiston. In her 95 years on this earth, she always strove to support those in need and to reach out to strangers, to make them feel at home. This, I believe, she learned from her years in Lewiston, as a young girl from the country who was nurtured and strengthened by those in her new

10 | NEWENGLAND.COM

Dear Yankee | OUR READERS RESPOND

CONTRIBUTORS

DOM CASSERLY (LITTLE OUTDOOR GIANTS); PABLEAUX JOHNSON (CURTIS); LORI PEDRICK (RIVLIN); MATTHEW PLOUFFE (SEAMANS); INDIAN HILL PRESS (“SPRING AWAKENING”)

SPRING AWAKENING

After months of life indoors, Our winter-weary lungs and pores

Embrace the sun, the fragrant breeze, And walks beneath the cherry trees.

—D.A.W.

city. Thank you for shedding light on this wonderful pocket of America.

Laurie Daniels Keene Valley, New York

Over the Long Run

Thanks so much for the “Timeless” reminder [“Game Changer,” March/ April] showing the photographs of the first female Boston Marathon runner being attacked by the event’s male codirector. Just looking at the anger in his face helps explain what has fomented today’s political environment, with its toxic hatred toward those who want an equal chance to run, work, and vote.... I am glad the two main characters ultimately became friends—I just hope the same can be true for the rest of our country.

John Wengler Nelson, New Hampshire

We want to hear from you! Write us at 1121 Main St., Dublin, NH 03444, or editor@yankeemagazine.com. Letters may be edited for length and clarity.

MAY | JUNE 2017

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A Traveler’s Best Friend

here may be better ways to vacation than living on a houseboat plying the waters of Lake Champlain beneath summer’s blue sky (“Slow Boat on a Big Lake,” p. 70), but I can’t think of any. Well, maybe one: kicking back at a cabin in the Maine woods, a timeless retreat you return to year after year (“A Place to Get Away,” p. 92). Or perhaps the open road is calling you to search out exciting things to see and do across our region; if so, our Best of New England guide (p. 107) has both old favorites and worthy newcomers to visit this summer.

I believe that a travel issue should bring readers respite from their everyday cares. Indeed, that’s a big reason why people leave home. But we do not live in a bubble. Since work began on this issue, months ago, the word travel has taken on a heavier weight. A word that once implied exploring, meeting new people, now is seemingly being used to assign us into slots: You over there, OK, come through; you, stay back. Anyone with knowledge of New England understands that we are all descendents of travelers brave enough, or desperate enough, to see what these mountains, forests, and harbors could offer. Hard work and fortitude and enough luck usually prevailed.

I once taught in the journalism program at the University of Massachusetts. The students were mostly seniors, and all they wanted was a chance to break in somewhere—to make their mark, ask the right questions, and find the stories that mattered. These were young people who cared about their world. I can’t imagine anyone calling their work “fake” without turning red with shame.

Every morning at my desk, starting north in Maine, then moving south and west, I read what New England reporters have covered in their backyard. I learn about the rural poor and the human cost of the opioid epidemic, about how towns grapple with alternative energy and how fishermen struggle with quotas. These reporters chase neither fame nor, surely, riches. And while there may exist unscrupulous journalists, they are always unearthed. The world of writing is a poor place in which to hide out—too many eyes.

As you travel this summer, remember that nearly every village, town, or city you visit will offer a daily or weekly paper that sheds light on its people and places. Most of these can be plucked for a dollar; The Boston Globe takes two. It’s worth it to get a better sense of where you are—and it’s the best way to honor the founders of this country in their demand for a free and open press. The New England revolutionaries who took on the tyranny of an English king in the spring of 1775 would thank you.

Mel Allen editor@yankeemagazine.com

12 | NEWENGLAND.COM

Inside Yankee | MEL ALLEN

JARROD M c CABE

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The Bobolink Dilemma

Instinct draws the sweet-singing birds to make their homes in the same fields that farmers must harvest for hay.

have a unique vantage point from my property: Look to the west and there is a hayfield, not a large one but big enough to yield a few wagonloads of hay each year, as well as a clear horizon. To the north is another hayfield, about the same size though not as well situated, so the crop is less vigorous. And to the south is the big field, the one that opens its arms to the sky and yields a superabundant harvest of hay.

When I first came here, I didn’t know much about the bobolinks, migratory birds small enough to hold in my hand. I knew only their cheerful song, broadcast out across the greening fields, happy as the rest of us to welcome spring. In those early years of my tenancy, I had no idea that these birds nested in the fields instead of the trees. Animal instincts have always struck me as an ingenious way of keeping creatures from harm. The bobolinks must have a reason for nesting on the ground, but doing it that way seems extremely dangerous.

Birds and haying do not necessarily clash. But what happens when the fields are hayed is that, quite immediately, there is what one might call “road kill,” as the big blades of the cutter inevitably leave all manner of animals in their wake, from field mice to skunks and even a fisher-cat or two—whatever could not escape in time. Some of these unfortunate creatures even end up baled into the hay.

At first I didn’t fully understand the bobolinks’ plight. Friends were advocating to stop the farmers from haying until the babies had left the nest, but my sympathies went to the farmer. In haying, weather is crucial to getting in a good crop. I know how hard it is to harvest when weather won’t cooperate. The birds simply made a fatal mistake by nesting in a hayfield. What were they thinking?

Then, a few years ago, I was sitting at my kitchen table as the first cut began, the green tractor sweeping across the field, usually a cause for joy, a signal of new life. And I saw behind it a wave of young bobolinks, hopping and struggling in the cutter’s wake.

It was as if these small birds were drowning in the incoming tide of hay as it churned off the blades. It took several minutes for my brain to process the fact that the words of my bird-loving friends were true. The bobolinks’ instincts had led them to their end, silencing their beautiful songs.

For the rest of the season, each time I looked at the field my heart sank. But what was there to do? Every year, trucks hauling horse trailers line up at the gate to pick up the farmer’s freshly baled hay. Who or what is more important in the natural pyramid? I thought about it constantly as the season wore on. The farmer has to figure into this formula as well. A farmer friend of mine always has said, “Nature takes care of everything.” Maybe. Maybe sometimes it takes a while for the pendulum to swing back to where it’s fair.

Last June, there were no bobolinks nesting in the field. Had they learned their lesson and moved on to greener pastures? Or were there simply none of them left? There must be a reason why the bobolinks build their nests in the hayfield, but so far I don’t know what it is.

14 | NEWENGLAND.COM ENCYCLOPAEDIA BRITANNICA/UIG/BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

Mary’s Farm | EDIE CLARK

The Nature Conservancy and other like-minded groups advocate a program called the Bobolink Project as a way to help these birds survive. To learn more, go to bobolinkproject.com.

The Promise

A Most Unusual Gift of Love

THEPOEMREADS:

A Most Unusual Gift of Love

THEPOEMREADS:

Dear Reader,

The drawing you see above is called The Promise It is completely composed of dots of ink. After writing the poem, I worked with a quill pen and placed thousands of these dots, one at a time, to create this gift in honor of my youngest brother and his wife.

Dear Reader,

The drawing you see above is called “The Promise.” It is completely composed of dots of ink. After writing the poem, I worked with a quill pen and placed thousands of these dots, one at a time, to create this gift in honor of my youngest brother and his wife.

Now, I have decided to offer The Promise to those who share and value its sentiment. Each litho is numbered and signed by hand and precisely captures the detail of the drawing. As a wedding, anniversary or Valentine’s gift or simply as a standard for your own home, I believe you will find it most appropriate.

Now, I have decided to offer “The Promise” to those who share and value its sentiment. Each litho is numbered and signed by hand and precisely captures the detail of the drawing. As a wedding, anniversary or Valentine’s gift or simply as a standard for your own home, I believe you will find it most appropriate.

Dear Reader,

Measuring 14" by 16", it is available either fully-framed in a subtle copper tone with hand-cut double mats of pewter and rust at $145*, or in the mats alone at $105*. Please add $16.95 for insured shipping and packaging. Your satisfaction is completely guaranteed.

My best wishes are with you.

Measuring 14" by 16", it is available either fully framed in a subtle copper tone with hand-cut mats of pewter and rust at $110, or in the mats alone at $95. Please add $14.50 for insured shipping and packaging. Your satisfaction is completely guaranteed.

My best wishes are with you.

The Art of Robert Sexton • P.O. Box 581 • Rutherford, CA 94573

The Art of Robert Sexton, 491 Greenwich St. (at Grant), San Francisco, CA 94133

All major credit cards are welcomed. Please send card name, card number, address and expiration date, or phone (415) 989-1630 between 10 a.m.-6 P.M. PST, Monday through Saturday. Checks are also accepted.

Please allow up to 5 to 10 business days for delivery. *California residents- please include 8.0% tax

MASTERCARD and VISA orders welcome. Please send card name, card number, address and expiration date, or phone (415) 989-1630 between noon-8 P.M.EST. Checks are also accepted. Please allow 3 weeks for delivery.

Please visit my Web site at www.robertsexton.com

Measuring 14" by 16", it is available either fully framed in a subtle copper tone with hand-cut mats of pewter and rust at $110, or in the mats alone at $95. Please add $14.50 for insured shipping

“The Promise” is featured with many other recent works in my book, “Journeys of the Human Heart.” It, too, is available from the address above at $12.95 per copy postpaid. Please visit my Web site at www.robertsexton.com

“Across the years I will walk with you— in deep, green forests; on shores of sand: and when our time on earth is through, in heaven, too, you will have my hand.”

Good Well Hunting

HEWITT

y the first of May, the last vestiges of the mildest winter in memory are long departed. I cannot recall a winter of such enduring timidity, and although I’m grateful for all the ways in which it made our lives easier during the inherent challenges of home building, I also feel a certain loss. There’s a particular satisfaction in making it through a real Vermont winter, in sticking it out to the bitter end of the below-zero nights and the bottom of the woodpile with your mental and physical well-being intact. Or one out of two, at least.

This spring, however, there’s none of that. We’d had nothing to endure but the lack of winter itself; why, the pipes in the unheated pantry of our new house froze only once. What’s more, they didn’t even burst! It’s an outrage, really.

Now, with the frost out of the ground and the first cutting of hay stacked neatly in the barn, we’re faced with a hard decision. For months we’ve been suffering the unpalatable water that our spring produces. At first, in the early weeks of developing the spring, we assumed the off taste was due to soil disturbance and the presence of decomposing organic matter. I took the excavator to the spring and scraped off all visible topsoil and forest detritus, replacing it with clay from the bottom of our pond site. But these efforts proved fruitless, as the water continued to smell and taste like an egg left in the sun too long, and it soon became clear that we’d inadvertently developed a sulfur spring. We installed a large carbon water filter in the house; within two weeks, the sulfur had overcome it. At $60 per filter, this is no long-term solution.

16 | NEWENGLAND.COM Life in the Kingdom | BEN HEWITT THE

NORTHEAST KINGDOM

PHOTOGRAPHS BY PENNY

When a sulfur-spewing spring makes life unbearable, a dowser is a good person to know.

LEFT : “This was the very moment we located that spot” where the family well would be drilled, says the author, shown with his dowsing rods. “It was so obvious the way the rods came together.” OPPOSITE : John Wayne Blassingame at work. The practice of dowsing—using a forked stick, rod, or other tool to locate underground water or minerals—was first described in detail in 16th-century Germany, though some believe it goes back to prehistoric times.

It’s difficult to overstate how discouraged I am by this turn of events. In the grand scheme of things, developing a sulfur spring ranks pretty low on the hardship scale, but the spring had been a source of pride for me. I’d never developed a spring before, but for this one I had my hands on every step of the process, learning as I went, all the while anticipating the unending stream of crystalline water soon to flow into our new home. Equally painful was the fact that we dumped better than $3,000 into the project. That’s a steep toll for water that turns the nose from a dozen feet.

The decision isn’t whether we should drill a well now—that’s pretty much a given—but rather where we should drill. That’s because there are never any guarantees when one drills for water. Drill over here, and you might hit water at 100 feet; drill over there, and it might be 300 feet. Or more: Just a stone’s throw from our place—far, far too close for comfort—

there’s a 600-foot dry well. Given that the current price for drilling runs about a dozen bucks per foot, the implications are obvious. So, we decide to hire a dowser. And that, in short, is how we meet John Wayne Blassingame.

Blassingame arrives on an idyllic early summer morning, the sky azure blue above, the grass verdantly green underfoot. Within minutes, Penny and I know the following about him: He is 89 years old (though he doesn’t look a day older than 70), he’s found water in 26 states, he was drafted into the Navy right out of high school, and he has a 14-year-old biological daughter. The last seems a particular point of pride, and, honestly, who can blame him?

“It’s all about tuning into the subconscious,” explains Blassingame, when I ask about the tenets of successful dowsing. “The subconscious knows all sorts of things.” Furthermore, it’s critical to know the limitations of the practice. “It’s got to be sincere,” he says, as he extracts copper dowsing rods from a case in the bed of his truck. “It’s got to be based on need, not greed, or it won’t be accurate. And you can’t infringe on someone’s personal life.” He tells us about the time he was giving a dowsing workshop and a woman tried to dowse whether her husband was having an affair. “I grabbed those rods right out of her hands.”

| 17 MAY | JUNE 2017

“It’s all about tuning into the subconscious,” says Blassingame, when I ask about the tenets of successful dowsing. “The subconscious knows all sorts of things.”

Blassingame has brought along homemade rods for both Penny and me because he wants “our energy in it.” He hands us each a set of rods; they’re maybe 16 inches long, with a 6-inch-long L to be held in the hand. Over each L he’s installed a copper sleeve; this allows the rods to rotate freely in our hands. The first thing we do is “tune” our rods by explaining to them (yes, out loud) what we want them to do in response to our questions: cross tips when the answer is yes, and swing outward when the answer is no. We then ask a series of yes/no questions to which the answers are well-established fact. “Is my name Ben?” “Am I a little green frog?” And so on.

My rods provide the correct answer to every question, but this seems easy enough to dismiss. After all, it’s a very different thing to ask the rods if I’m a little green frog compared with ask-

ing them if we’re standing atop a vein of potable water and, furthermore, whether that vein will produce a sufficient flow of water and, furthermore still, to gauge the approximate depth of that water. Yet Blassingame says we can do it, and who am I to doubt an 89-year-old with a daughter just out of junior high?

The Retirement of a Lifetime

With our rods tuned and our subconscious awareness on high alert, we turn to the task of finding water. Because we’d already buried lines from the spring to the house, our strong preference is to drill our well near enough to those lines that we can simply tap into them, rather than trench for new lines all the way from well to house.

Blassingame instructs me to make a pass in the hoped-for vicinity. I walk slowly across the area, repeatedly asking, “Is there water here?” until the tips of my rods cross. It’s an astonishing moment; it feels almost as if I couldn’t stop the rods from crossing. I repeat the process, with the same result. Penny goes next, and her rods cross at the exact same spot. Blassingame confirms our finding, then homes in on depth (250 to 300 feet), palatability and potability (affirmative on both accounts), and flow (at least 8 gallons per minute). “Have them drill right here ,” he

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“Have them drill right here,” he says, pounding a stake into the ground. Within seconds, a butterfly alights atop it. “That’s a good omen,” he notes.

instructs, pounding a flagged stake into the ground. Within seconds, a butterfly alights atop it. This pleases Blassingame immensely. “That’s a good omen,” he says, and chuckles.

It’s more than three weeks before the drilling rig arrives, and I cannot deny that over this period, doubt creeps in. I pass the stake multiple times each day, looking for some sort of clue that we’ve chosen the right spot. But to the naked eye there is nothing to differentiate this small square of ground from the millions of small squares of ground surrounding it. I wonder: Could Blassingame have scammed us? At $250, his services weren’t exactly cut-rate, especially considering he was on-site for less than two hours. A quick round of Googling reveals a study claiming dowsers are no more reliable than coin flips. If this is true, the $250 doesn’t bother me nearly as much as the lingering uncertainty over how deep we’ll ultimately need to drill. I console myself by recalling the butterfly, whose wings were deep blue—the color of water.

Turns out, we’re not able to be home the day the drillers arrive. When we return at 6:30, the rig is perched in our yard, the bit deep in the ground at the precise spot we’d installed the stake. I run inside to call the driller; I simply can’t bear waiting until the next day to find out how far they’ve drilled, whether they’ve hit water, and, if so, the rate of flow.

“We got to 165 feet,” the driller tells me. He pauses for dramatic effect, and I steel myself—surely, something must have broken. Then he continues, “And we hit 50 gallons per minute. At least that’s what I think it is. Honestly, it was coming in so fast, we could hardly measure it.” I cover the telephone mouthpiece and let loose a whoop. Fifty gallons a minute at 165 feet is better fortune than I even dared dream. And it’s far, far better than what Blassingame promised. For a brief moment, I consider calling him to alert him that perhaps those rods weren’t fully tuned. After all, we were wrong. But darn it all, at least we were wrong in the right direction.

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First LIGHT

Friends of the Madison Boulder president Brian Fowler at the ancient slab, which not only towers over him but also extends another 10 to 12 feet underground.

A ‘Very Impressive Rock’

If you’ve ever wondered about the power of glaciers, pay a visit to the Madison Boulder.

BY JULIA SHIPLEY

obody stumbles upon it. Or over it, for that matter, even though it’s been hunkered in the New Hampshire woods for the past 15,000 years.

My husband and I first learned about the monster rock known as the Madison Boulder, “the largest glacial erratic boulder in North America,” in a book about stone walls. Just from the description we already knew that no farmer had ever attempted to pry this specimen free and lug it to his boundary wall. The mention of the boulder was obviously for show, an extreme, something to elicit our sympathy and awe: Look at what these yeomen had to contend with!

But “largest glacial erratic boulder in North America” also elicited our imagination. Oh c’mon, how big? we wondered.

In early May, we left northern Vermont and drove east, across the Connecticut River into New Hampshire, surging up and over the White Mountains, cruising through North Conway’s fairway of motels and outlet shops, then poking along increasingly modest roads to reach the town of Madison. We passed a gravel pit, some small bungalows, and a recycling center. Could there really be a colossal rock near here?

Finally, we rounded a corner and saw the sign: Geological Park .

After traveling two and a half hours, a distance of 120 miles in our Chevy, we had arrived in the vicinity of a boulder that had also made

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PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL SEAMANS

a voyage—one that took about 5,000 years, over the distance of a few miles, while trapped in a glacier.

Its chilly vehicle gave the boulder status as an “erratic,” which is the term used to describe any rock that thanks to glacial transport is constitutionally different from the rocks surrounding it. In designating the boulder a National Natural Landmark in 1970, the Department of the Interior heralded its transit as illustrating “the power of an ice sheet to pluck out very large rocks of fractured bedrock and move them substantial distances.”

A sign in the empty lot promised an easy 15-minute walk to the boulder. At scarcely the five-minute mark, I saw what looked like a slate barn roof in the distance and wondered aloud if it was maybe a three-story rangers’ quarters. “No, that’s it,” my husband said, just as we reached a clearing. The pamphlet we’d picked up in the parking lot described a “very impressive rock.” Oh yes.

The boulder’s dimensions—83 feet long, 23 feet high, and 37 feet wide—convey its enormousness, but how to account for its … sentience? The loafing rock emanates a presence, a heavy serenity. It seems like a petrified leviathan, with lichens freckling its flank like barnacles. At an estimated 5,900 tons, this behemoth of Conway granite in fact equals 35 blue whales.

I studied the boulder’s base, finding vole holes and violets and whitepetaled stars-of-Bethlehem. In the distance, an ovenbird trilled; close by, a mosquito grazed my neck. All this delicate life, living with and beside the hulking rock.

Meanwhile, my husband prowled the circumference. When I found him on the far side, he was peering at some spray-paint iconography scrawled onto the boulder’s surface. Then his eyes traveled upward, and he fixed his gaze on the boulder’s crown. “Wouldn’t it be cool to see what’s up there?”

A picture in A Brief History of Madison , published in 1925, features two gentlemen who did exactly that. They are standing on the boulder’s pate, grinning. According to Brian Fowler, president of the Friends of the Madison Boulder, some of last century’s visitors brought chisels and mallets to inscribe their initials on the top of the rock, which they reached via a staircase erected along the back side. However, by the 1950s the staircase had

largely deteriorated, and nowadays ambitious visitors lean tree limbs and trunks against the boulder to try to shimmy up. The advent of spray paint, it seems, has made leaving a signature far easier, something Fowler laments.

“There’s a segment of our society that needs to express itself,” he said. It’s a primal segment, I think, one that harks back to our prehistoric ancestors’ making unmistakable marks on rock for us to discover. Nevertheless, it’s also directly at odds with the Friends of the Madison Boulder, which has raised thousands of dollars to sandblast said expressions off the rock’s front side, restoring its appearance to perhaps that of 20,000 years ago, when the Wisconsin glaciation was in full swing.

We circled around to the boulder’s front. My husband stepped back, squinting at the rock, there in a clearing surrounded by the infant leaves

First LIGHT | A ‘VERY IMPRESSIVE ROCK’ 22 | NEWENGLAND.COM

Support and funding from the National Park Foundation has helped turn the boulder from a onetime thrillseeker’s attraction into a protected landmark.

I studied the boulder’s base, finding vole holes and violets and white-petaled stars-of-Bethlehem.

All this delicate life, living with and beside the hulking rock.

of maple and beech, as if trying to imagine how it had foundered here. And so I reprised the history lesson that Fowler, who is also a trained geologist, had offered.

In 1878, Charles Hitchcock led the team that created the first geological map of New Hampshire, which included the Madison Boulder. A geology professor at Dartmouth College, Hitchcock also was the first to propose that the boulder had been delivered by glacier to the valley floor. (The common thinking was that epic floods had rearranged big rocks across the state’s terrain.)

Since Hitchcock’s time, surficial geologists have further described how the boulder arrived: During the last ice age, an advancing glacier knocked a chip off the old block (of exposed granite) and sleighed it “downstream.” This chip likely came from the Whitten Ledge, a formation standing a mile and a half to the northwest; in his years of exploring the area, Fowler has noticed that the mineral structure of the boulder “matches up perfectly” with that of part of the ledge.

For a few thousand years, this dislocated granite chunk was suspended in ice. But about 15,000 years ago, the glacier began to melt and gradually release its debris, and—as Fowler put it—“down she went.”

And down she remained—while across the globe, our Stone Age forebears were on the verge of domesticating sheep, soon to be followed by cows, and grain farming, which was about to grow by leaps and bounds due to a new tool called the plow. Yet innovations like chicken farming, horseback riding, and writing were still a few millennia down the road.

And there she sat—while humanity inched toward omelets, cavalries, and magazine publishing.

And here she still sits—this humongous heirloom from prehistory, persisting.

The Madison Boulder Natural Area is located at the end of Boulder Road, off Rte. 113, in Madison, NH, and is open to visitors year-round.

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Seal of Honor

Trophies, old love letters, a wedding gown— these are the mementoes you’d expect a family to collect and save for future generations. But for Toni Goodridge, whose family happens to have included the world’s most famous harbor seal, the collection takes a quirkier turn. Tucked away in her Lincolnville, Maine, home is the hollowed-out, neoprene-covered log that her father, Rockport harbor master Harry Goodridge, used to wean the seal pup he rescued and named Andre back in 1961.

Two filing cabinets stuffed with news clippings, books, and letters from schoolchildren attest to Andre’s eventual status as a Rockport celebrity—as does the Townsperson of the Year medallion pictured here, which was presented to Andre in 1979 (along with a congratulatory telegram from the governor). Toni and her siblings have lately begun talking about entrusting the Andre collection to someplace like a museum, since the legendary “seal who came home” is still capturing the public’s imagination more than three decades after his death. “Just when we think everything has settled down,” she says, “we get another email from someone, somewhere around the world, who has connected with Andre’s story.” —Jenn

Johnson

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To Stretch a Shoestring

hen my husband and I decided we wanted a summer home on the family farm on Great East Lake in Maine, my mother-in-law’s only comment was: “I have heard of folks doing things on a shoestring, but you two haven’t even got the money to buy lacings for your shoes!”

Not to be deterred, we bartered and swapped for everything we could. We cut trees from a neighbor’s woodlot “on shares” and took them to a local sawmill with our brother’s truck; in return we helped with his haying. The mill owner kept a third of the logs we brought him in exchange for cutting our logs into whatever lumber we needed.

Work was traded with summer people for nails and cement, and we salvaged windows for 50 cents apiece from a house that was being razed. The fireplace was made of

native fieldstone (there was no shortage of that on our rocky building site) at a total cost of 5 cents—the price of a government pamphlet titled “How to Build a Fireplace.”

The project took five years to complete and cost us exactly $33.95 in cash. The major portion of that went for asphalt roofing shingles. Not a bad price for a house that’s stood for almost 50 years through countless winter storms and two hurricanes.

—Adapted from “How to Build a House for Under $40,” by Ruth Langley Hill (April 1981)

WE WERE RIGHT ALL ALONG

Katharine Hepburn (May 12, 1907–June 29, 2003). This ﬁercely independent fourtime Oscar winner wasn’t the sort to tie her fate to anyone else’s. But the Connecticut native did maintain a decades-long bond with her family’s beloved seaside retreat in Old Saybrook, where she spent the last years of her life. In 2009, the town repaid that devotion by debuting the Katharine Hepburn Cultural Arts Center, affectionately nicknamed “the Kate.”

26 | NEWENGLAND.COM YINYANG/ISTOCK (HOUSE);

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“As one goes through life, one learns that if you don’t paddle your own canoe, you don’t move.”

EMILY DICKINSON

1830

Year of Dickinson’s birth, in Amherst, Massachusetts

Number of her poems published before her death, at age 55

Number of years between her death and the publication of the first complete volume of her work

3,507

Number of poems and letters she’s known to have written 24

Number of years Dickinson corresponded with her mentor, Thomas Higginson, editor of The Atlantic Monthly

two

Number of times she and Higginson met in person

100,000+

Number of visitors to Amherst’s Emily Dickinson Museum since it opened in 2003

$100

Cost for a museum visitor to spend a solitary hour in the bedroom where Dickinson wrote

TWO

Number of words in her last known letter, from May 1866 (“Called back”)

SIX

Number of Irish laborers she requested carry her casket to the family grave site

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How to Give a Great Speech

In honor of college commencement season, we ask communication guru Jay Heinrichs for help channeling our inner Cicero.

BY JENN JOHNSON BY J.P. SCHMELZER

ven in New England, the birthplace of scores of celebrated public speakers— Daniel Webster, Susan B. Anthony, JFK, and so on—it can feel as if the art of oratory is withering away these days, one tweet at a time. But college commencement season brings reason to take heart, as our region’s unmatched collection of universities invites everyone from scholars to actors to, yes, politicians to take the dais and speak their mind.

True, few of us have a backstory as inspiring as J.K. Rowling’s (Harvard, 2008) or a wit as pithy as Nora Ephron’s (Wellesley, 1996). However, we can all polish our oratorical skills just in case our alma mater—or, OK, our local church group—comes calling for a keynoter. For some insight, we turned to New Hampshire consultant Jay Heinrichs, author of Word Hero , a guide to becoming a better writer and speaker, and the New York Times bestseller Thank You for Arguing.

Tap into the Classics

Heinrichs’s own interest in the power of words was sparked years ago, when in a cobwebbed corner of the Dartmouth library he stumbled upon a collection of lectures by John Quincy Adams from his tenure as a Harvard professor of oratory and rhetoric. Heinrichs was immediately hooked, and he set out to read all the classics that Adams mentioned. “What blew

28 | NEWENGLAND.COM First LIGHT | ASK THE EXPERT

ILLUSTRATION

me away about that was although I loved literature, I always suspected that words ought to do more than sit around looking pretty,” he says. “I knew they had a certain power.”

Tell ’Em a Tale (but Not a Joke)

In drafting a speech, remember that the surest way to connect with an audience is to tell a story. In his outline for persuasive speaking, ancient Rome’s Marcus Tullius Cicero (“who according to Cicero was the greatest orator in history,” Heinrichs quips) calls this the narratio , and every speech should have one.

But resist the temptation to lighten up your speech with humor, since one lame joke can turn off half your audience (or more). “Humor is impossibly hard,” says Heinrichs. “Don’t do it. Unless you’re sure you’re funny. Even then ... don’t.”

Ditch the Index Cards

Rather than reading from notes, try committing your talk to memory. “That’s what the ancients did,

pre-Teleprompter,” says Heinrichs, who recommends writing out the speech, breaking it up into PowerPoint slides, then reciting it while showing yourself the slides. Bonus: Memorizing a speech forces you to make it short enough to, you know, memorize.

Get to the Point

When you step up to the microphone, suppress the urge to stray from your talk. “Don’t apologize, or ask if people can hear you, or say how nervous you are,” Heinrichs advises. “Begin your speech the way Ira Glass does on This American Life, by jumping right in.”

Wrap Up Quickly

Don’t draw out your closing thought. “The ancients believed that the patterns of the brain work in concert with the rhythms of the body,” Heinrichs says. “A memorable thought therefore is best expressed in the length of a human breath—about 12 seconds.”

Know Your Audience

“Every great orator speaks to the

beliefs, feelings, and expectations of his audience,” says Heinrichs. For example, if you do happen to deliver a commencement speech, you arguably could do worse than reading from Goodnight Moon. “Not all students are feeling 100 percent positive about their future,” Heinrichs says. “They may just want to curl up with a book about a rabbit and some kittens.”

Embrace Those Butterflies

For most of us, jitters are inevitable when getting up to speak in front of a crowd. But instead of trying to calm your nerves, Heinrichs says, focus on faking confidence. “The single best way to do this is talk louder—it actually gives you breath control.”

And take consolation, he adds, from the greats who have gone before: “In his first time up as a lawyer, Cicero actually threw up before he had to speak. Then he couldn’t even get through his speech without running away in terror. And that gives me hope, personally.”

| 29 MAY | JUNE 2017

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“SHE-SHEDS” ARE THE LATEST IN THE TINY-HOUSE PHENOMENON. ON CAPE COD, THEY DO IT THEIR OWN WAY.

BY KATE WHOULEY HORNICK/RIVLIN

ust as the last century turned into this one, I found a tiny cottage in the classified ads. It was only $3,000, but it was also cash-and-carry. I called the number listed, and suffice it to say: Adventure ensued. So much adventure, in fact, that I wrote a book about that cottage-moving year, the title echoing the original headline: Cottage for Sale, Must Be Moved

During one of my early conversations with Bob Hayden, a seasoned second-generation buildingmover, he referred to my project as a “shed move.” I took offense. I’d already hired an engineer, met with a crane operator, applied for a building permit, appeared before the conservation commission, and cleared two hillsides. The pending 16-by25-foot addition to my three-room home was most decidedly not a shed.

In those days, sheds were stocked with shovels and spades, wheelbarrows and lawn mowers, bicycles and off-duty air conditioners. And some still are. But now there’s a revolution afoot. Across America, women are taking to their backyards to reclaim, repurpose, and create new rooms of their own. Introducing: the she-shed.

Search the term online, and you’ll fall through the looking glass into a land of tiny, tricked-out backyard buildings. You may want them all. You may also note that a lot of these lovely spaces are in places with not much, well, weather. And you may wonder: What does a New England she-shed look like? And perhaps you will embark on a different kind of domestic adventure, as I did, crisscrossing Cape Cod in search of real-life seaside she-sheds.

THE SITTING SHED, Brewster

“I didn’t want my shed to become a project,” says Deer Sullivan, lowering herself into a faded blue beach chair. Deer has lived on this property overlooking Griffith’s Pond in Brewster for 13 years. The shed was here when she and her spouse bought the place; she needed only to clear it out and claim it.

Casting aside the Pinterest boards filled with dream house she-sheds, I admire the simplicity of Deer’s 10-by-12-foot structure: minimalist

SHED | 33

PHOTOGRAPHS BY

of one’s own

TRENDS | Home

OPPOSITE : Deer Sullivan’s simple, colorful shed is a place for her to unplug from daily life—literally, since she’s ditched the shed’s electrical hookup. “I don’t need it here,” she shrugs.

seating, an overturned wooden crate for a table, a large gong (yes, she uses it) hanging by the oversize barn door, open wide to a woodsy view. The pale blue walls hint at the serenity Deer seeks in her shed, while the bold purple floor suggests this sheshedder is also a woman of action. “I am really a doer,” she tells me, confirming my color-borne inference. “And I am an artist, so I’m usually making something, or writing something, or reading something, or creating something with my hands. So I like to have a place where I can just sit.”

Deer takes sitting seriously, especially on Mondays—“mindfulness Mondays, I call them.” She is director of children and youth services at First Parish Brewster Unitarian Universalist Church, where, I’m thinking, mindfulness is pretty much a job requirement. In Deer’s case, this is work she takes home from the office. And she’s created a space that helps her connect to her personal spiritual practice.

Sipping fresh-brewed ice tea, she tells me that she’s always had a shed.

“I’ve been lucky that way. Even when I rented places, they always had a shed, and I would turn it into a little sit spot. For me, it’s more necessary to have an outbuilding to hang at than to have a place to put tools.”

THE HE-BUILT SHE-SHED

We watch three wild turkeys stroll past the shed. “That’s my neighbor’s property,” she says, motioning in the direction of the birds. When Deer is sitting in the shed, she can’t see her own yard or home. This outward orientation is intentional. “Sitting here,” she says, “I can’t see all that needs to be done. I can just be right here—in this little spot that could be anywhere— and breathe in, and breathe out.”

THE PASSION SHED East Sandwich

You have to get up early to join Linda Colgan in her shed. “I like to sit here in the morning, have a cup of coffee, and plan my day,” she says. And a good day for Linda includes some time in the dirt.

En route to Linda’s backyard refuge, I notice a small Eden on the roof of her house. Veggies and herbs, she tells me, fed by a gutter watering system. “I don’t have to worry about bunnies or groundhogs up there,” she explains. We pass a half-moon bed

hannon Goheen’s birthday greeting from her husband, Tom Huettner, was an illustrated promise. Happy She-Shed by the Seashore, it read, beneath a sketch of two sheds he planned to build for her. Shannon, a landscape designer who co-owns Second Nature Garden Works with her husband, says they had been talking about an outdoor structure for a while. “I wanted a space of my own,” says Shannon, pointing out that Tom already has a couple of sheds for “his stuff” on their 1-acre wooded property in Dennis Port.

“I love the night,” says Shannon, whose online persona, the Evening Gown Gardener, dons vintage formal wear to dispense planting and growing advice under the cover of darkness. “I love to work at night, and garden at night, and just be outdoors at night. But my backyard is too buggy. I wanted a place where I could be outdoors— but also feel protected.” The answer? A sophisticated screen room, where Shannon plans to sit, think, and listen, especially at night. But what about space for Shannon’s plant tapestries—beautiful framed weavings using natural materials like seaweed, wheat, and eelgrass— or those large-scale garden designs? Walk across the wooden deck to enter her 10-by-12-foot work shed.

This two-shed labor of love is also a lesson in thrift and reuse. The steps to the central deck were recycled from a client who upgraded to stone, and a large bundle of remnant boards from Mid-Cape Home Center ($100) will provide most of the framing. Shannon and Tom found French doors at the Habitat for Humanity ReStore, where they are also hunting windows. “I feel incredibly fortunate to be the recipient of not one shed but two,” says Shannon. “I can’t wait to see them!”

| 35 MAY | JUNE 2017

Dennis Port

TRENDS | Home

OPPOSITE : Linda Colgan gives her green thumb free rein in her East Sandwich shed, which is flooded with natural light thanks to translucent polycarbonate panels ( ABOVE ) incorporated into the roof.

of rose bushes before we reach our destination: a 12-by-14-foot silvershingled shed, graced with overflowing window boxes and filled with light.

The day before I visited, Linda hosted 80 guests as part of the Cape Cod Hydrangea Festival. “A lot of people noticed the shed,” she says, showing me the map she handed out to visitors. “One woman told me she had shed envy.” I get it. For me, it’s the perfectly level stone floor—a pattern of muted reds and grays, squares and rectangles. It’s a floor that could be in a Tuscan courtyard, and I want to take it home with me.

“This is the reason for the shed,” she says, directing my attention to a handsome potting bench. The surfaces are pine, bathed in a reddish stain; the supports are glossy green. The bench has a built-in soil tray with a screen. The cubbyholes in the attached hutch hold small pots and tiny treasures. “My son built this

and gave it to me as a gift. When I laid eyes on it, I knew I couldn’t let it stay outdoors.”

I turn toward the door, where I see a small array of tools, some on hooks and some leaning against the wall. “My husband’s corner,” Linda says. “That’s as far as I let him in.” She smiles to let me know she’s joking. But this shed is clearly Linda’s space in form and function. Here, she feeds her passion—sifting soil at her handmade potting bench, poring over seed catalogs, sipping coffee, and deciding when it’s safe to move the tomatoes outdoors. So I have to ask: “Just one chair?”

“Yes.” Linda flashes me a conspiratorial grin. “That’s on purpose.”

THE SOCIAL SHED Brewster

When Stephaine Meads began dreaming of her she-shed, she wasn’t seeking solitude. “I love to entertain,” she tells me, as we cross a smooth stone expanse that hugs an elegantly curved swimming pool. Her bulldog, Lulu, tags along. Stephaine nods in the direction of another bulldog, this one cast in cement and standing guard at the edge of the pool. “That’s Lulu II.”

It would be easy to be distracted by this lovely outdoor living space, but ahead the gray clapboard shed beckons. Today the copper whale atop the custom cupola is unmoving, and the French doors beneath the attached pergola are closed, conserving the cool air inside. The family business is heating and cooling, and Stephaine’s 12-by-14-foot poolside retreat is climate-controlled.

36 | NEWENGLAND.COM

Home | TRENDS

OPPOSITE : In her Brewster backyard, Stephaine Meads has created a she-shed that’s meant to be shared. The inviting retreat is outfitted with modern conveniences (streaming TV, climate control) as well as comfortable and eclectic furnishings ( BELOW ).

WILL MOSES

That’s not the only creature comfort. Inside Stephaine’s she-shed you’ll find a fully stocked bar, a comfy couch, and a wall-mounted TV that connects to Netflix. But make no mistake: This is not a man cave. The small, welcoming space has been painstakingly planned and assembled by a female decorating mastermind, a woman who thrills to the hunt of desired objects.

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In her shed, Stephaine seeks to achieve what she describes as a “vintage nautical feel.” On one wall, “AHOY” is spelled out in a vertical arrangement, with a small ship’s wheel resting nearby. “Some things, like these letters—I saw them several years ago and bought them—I never had a place for in the house,” she says. Other decorative elements in the shed are more recent acquisitions, like the two vintage bathing suits that she found on Etsy and framed side-by-side on the wall behind the couch.

SHE-SOURCES

Thinking of my own cottage, I feel a kinship to this woman who scours flea markets, antiques shops, and websites in search of what she needs to transform vision into reality. I’m betting that when Stephaine gathers girlfriends in her shed, they want to stay awhile to learn the story of the resonant iron bell (a replica of the last-call bell in a Provincetown bar, and a gift to her husband from his mother) or the porthole window (discovered at one of Stephaine’s favorite haunts, Buddha & Beads).

“I love a treasure—something with a story, or with character,” she says. Stephaine is talking about her favorite finds, but it seems to me she could just as easily be describing her very own she-shed.

Do you know a house with an irresistible story? Contact Yankee home and garden editor Annie Graves, with photos, at annieg5355@yahoo.com.

“A few years ago we built a lot of man caves,” says Lynne McGrath of Pine Harbor Wood Products in Harwich, Massachusetts. “They were all about electronics: wide-screen TV, big speakers. The she-shed is more of a quiet getaway.” But whether a small building is destined to be a he-shed, she-shed, their-shed, or stuff-shed, Lynne has noticed that “whenever a couple comes in looking to build a shed, the woman is the driving force as to design, style, and use.”

Lynne operates Pine Harbor with her husband, Jamie, whose father started the business back in the 1970s. Today, Pine Harbor offers sheds in a range of sizes and styles (Stephaine Meads’s and Linda Colgan’s sheds are both customized Pine Harbor buildings). “We cut all the lumber here and then build on-site,” Lynne says. “A basic shed can be installed in a day.” Through a partnership with Walpole Outdoors, Pine Harbor offers delivery and installation across New England.

Here’s a sampling of other New England companies offering standard and customizable small buildings and ready-to-build shed kits:

Jamaica Cottage Shop

South Londonderry, VT. 866-297-3760; jamaicacottageshop.com

New England Outdoor Sheds & Gazebos

Methuen, MA. 978-705-6480; neoutdoor.com

Pine Harbor Wood Products

Harwich, MA. 800-368-7433; pineharbor.com

Reeds Ferry Sheds

Hudson, NH. 888-857-4337; reedsferry.com

piece

1000

Puzzle $17 75

“Art to warm your heart & home.” MT. NEBO GALLERY 60 Grandma Moses Rd. P O Box 94, Eagle Bridge, NY 12057 1-800-328-6326 FREE color catalog is available featuring Will Moses limited edition Folk Art Prints , Books , Puzzles , Cards & More! VISA MASTERCARD AMERICAN EXPRESS PROMPT DELIVERY SATISFACTION GUARANTEED Visit us on the web at www willmoses com Applicable tax and shipping extra

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38 | NEWENGLAND.COM

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Home | TRENDS

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Stephen Ray (shown in his studio, OPPOSITE ) jokes that his affinity for barns comes partly from a belief that “when I was born I went home with the wrong parents—city folks— instead of my farm family.”

‘Old Gray Ancients’

The venerable barns of Connecticut come alive in Stephen Ray’s vibrant artwork.

BY ANNIE GRAVES

tephen Ray is a man with 45 barns, give or take.

And each morning as he sits down to paint, Ray works to bring forth, from tubes of acrylic, another one of the “old gray ancients,” as he calls the spare, iconic barns that shimmer under his brushes. With an estimated 10,000 barns in Connecticut alone, he’ll never run out of subjects; however, “I tend to concentrate on the northeast and northwest corners of the state, where they’re most plentiful,” he says. Worn and dusky, melancholy but dignified, they stand like sentries on the hillsides, looking over the land. “Sky, grass, barn—that’s what I paint,” he says, with a smile.

Like the orderly world within the barn of a conscientious farmer, Ray’s studio, just off the kitchen of his Waterbury, Connecticut, home, is a study in practical organization. Today, the large draft table he works on is almost bare except for a few Masonite panels painted a deep shade of blue—the kind of blue that makes you want to go outside, lie down beneath it, and listen to tall field grass blowing.

“New England sky is the most incredible blue sky you’ll ever see,” Ray says.

Sky this blue doesn’t come easy. Ray builds layers and layers of color, but quickly, as acrylic paint dries fast. Four, five coats go on, and by the time he’s finished you can’t see a single brushstroke—the surface is smooth as glass, just waiting for the next barn. Ray chooses his model from a stack of photos he’s snapped from miles of travel, then does a pencil sketch. A sheet of white carbon paper behind the drawing allows him to trace the outline directly onto the Masonite. “People used to ask me, ‘Why no trees?’” Ray says. “I didn’t know how to paint trees in the beginning!”

Behind Ray’s main work area, a standing easel holds the occasional

painting he feels like tackling vertically. The gentle warbling of four tiny finches accompanies quiet classical music— Vivaldi, Mozart—or public radio. Beside the birdcages, a door opens to a deck overlooking the small suburban backyard dotted with bird feeders.

“Birds are definitely my thing,” Ray says. “It’s a nice soft sound in the background when I work.” On cue, from the living room, comes the insistent cooing of Jolie, a white dove that marked Ray’s wedding to his wife, JoAnn, in 2004. The sweet, mournful sound conjures an old-time farmhouse feel. “When Steve comes home, she won’t stop,” says JoAnn. “She’s addicted to him.”

And here is another barn echo: rows of multicolored show ribbons strung over the north-facing studio window, but representing art shows, not livestock competitions. Off to the side of Ray’s work desk, massive crates are stacked along the wall, evidence of the latest exhibit, a wildly successful show in Atlanta.

But before he painted barns, Ray built stairways, lots of them. A skilled woodworker, he spent decades in the building industry, first installing kitchen cabinets, then stairs, all over the state. How did he make the leap from carpenter to fine artist?

Ray points to a crucial influence when he was 8 or 9, growing up in Monroe, Connecticut: his family’s proximity to and friendship with artist Gary Barsumian, who also painted barns. At 18, Ray reconnected with

| 41 MAY | JUNE 2017

MARK FLEMING

OPEN STUDIO | Home

the Barsumians and saw how Gary’s work had changed. “I was blown away by it—so clean, crisp, just the feeling it had,” he recalls. “I thought, Someday I’m going to paint like him .”

So here and there, as years went by, Ray picked up a paintbrush, and once or twice got semiserious. Whenever he did, he painted barns. “It was the feeling they had, of solitude,” he says. “I had that feeling all my life. I’d struggled with addiction until I got sober in 1999. I could understand them—out in the field, getting no upkeep, taking the weather, not falling down. And that’s how I felt. That I was going to take life, and not fall down. And as a woodworker, I respected how they were built.”

But in 2008, the market crashed. Construction dried up, and, at 53, Ray was laid off. At that point, JoAnn told him, “You always wanted to be an artist. This is it. It’s time to paint.”

“I drew and painted every day that year,” he remembers. “I was really enthusiastic, but it was scary, too. We had bills and a mortgage. But my work was to teach myself to mix, draw, and paint. And at the end of the year I had a dozen really crummy paintings, but one or two that were pretty good.”

The next year, Ray started doing shows. The first was a homecoming of sorts, in Monroe. “Since then, it’s been my full-time job,” he says, the wonder still surfacing in his voice. But there’s confidence, too, when he speaks of his work. “My colors have

gotten brighter. There’s a panoramic look to my paintings. And something else—I don’t know why some of them work, but there’s an internal light, and I don’t know how I do it.”

He points to the painting of an “old gray ancient” in Cheshire, a barn that’s no longer there, being rebuilt somewhere else. This one has that light. “I chase it in every painting.”

Prices range from $400 for an 8"x10" painting to $6,500 for a 30"x60". For more information, call 203-565-6315 or go to barnsbystephenray.com.

42 | NEWENGLAND.COM

“I could understand the barns—out in the field, getting no upkeep, taking the weather, not falling down. And that’s how I felt. That I was going to take life, and not fall down.”

Home | OPEN STUDIO

During the winter, Ray usually paints six days a week here in his home studio, but when it’s time to hit the road for the art shows, he moves operations to a 20-foot trailer he tows behind his van.

1750s-style cape timbered ceilings center chimney wide board floors custom features 860.643.1148 EarlyNewEnglandHomes.com Reﬂections of the Past and Sustainability for the Future StyleLIFE Visit our model home on display at 26 West Street, Bolton, Connecticut.

The Most Famous House in New Hampshire

Yankee likes to mosey around and see, out of editorial curiosity, what you can turn up when you go house hunting. We have no stake in the sale whatsoever and would decline it if offered.

aybe you New England historians have already identified it from the photograph herewith. Yes, we’re writing about the famous Ocean-Born Mary House in Henniker. Our files here at Yankee are full of magazine and newspaper stories about the Ocean-Born Mary House. We’ve even done a few ourselves, in 1972 and again in 1996. But when we learned it was for sale this spring (asking $1 million)—the house now fully restored, with those 141 gorgeous acres, a four-car garage, a carriage house, and a sugar shack, plus a rather new screened-in porch with spectacular views across the valley through which the Contoocook River flows—well, we couldn’t resist bringing you the Ocean-Born Mary House once more.

So a couple of months ago we drove over to Henniker and visited with the current owners, Terry and Bob Stamps. Bob is originally from Nashville, Terry from San Francisco, but they had always yearned to live in an authentically old house in New England. When they both retired from many years at Hewlett-Packard in California, they began house-hunting trips, and in 2000 they found the OceanBorn Mary House. “We knew this was what we were looking for the minute we walked in the door,” said Bob, as we settled into the family room in front of one of the biggest brick fireplaces we’ve ever seen (and there’s another, just as gigantic, in the adjoining room!). The restoration and renovation work they’ve done in the years since (including a brand-new “period” kitchen and a brandnew master bedroom suite, which has one of the house’s six fireplaces) is all listed, one thing after another, on three sheets of paper Bob gave us—single-spaced.

44 | NEWENGLAND.COM

It’s a spectacular 1784 Georgian built on 141 stunning acres— but that’s not why it’s so well known.

Terry and Bob Stamps in front of the Ocean-Born Mary House, which first appeared in this column 45 years ago. The owner’s stated asking price then? “Somewhere in the vicinity of $100,000.”

Home | HOUSE FOR SALE COURTESY

OF RUEDIG REALTY (HOUSE)

FROM TOP : Originally sited on 6,000 acres, the house has retained 140-plus acres of its quiet country setting; the family room’s oversize hearth is among six fireplaces in all.

“The previous owners did much of the heavy lifting,” Bob said modestly, referring to Bob and Mary Gregg, who’d purchased the place in 1972 (after seeing our article) and raised their four children here. In other words, due to the work done by the Greggs and particularly the Stamps, every inch of the Ocean-Born Mary House today is in pristine condition. So why are the Stamps selling? Well, because with advancing age they’d like to be where the winters are a little milder. We can understand.

Of course, during our chat with Bob and Terry that morning, we had to clarify why the Ocean-Born Mary House is so famous. No, it’s not because it’s more than 230 years old. And no, it’s not because it’s said to have been visited by the likes of General Lafayette, Daniel Webster, and President Franklin Pierce. Rather, it’s because of two legends: one mostly true and one,

unfortunately, not. So for those of you unfamiliar with either tale, here goes...

The mostly true legend: On July 28, 1720, the Wolf, on its way from England to Boston, was captured by a pirate by the name of Don Pedro (though some

say that was not his real name). Among the passengers were James Wilson and his wife, Elizabeth, who had just given birth on the ship to a baby girl. When Don Pedro heard the baby cry, his pirate heart melted. He said that if the Wilsons named the baby Mary, after his mother, he would spare everyone and allow the ship to proceed. He even gave the Wilsons enough silk for a dress Mary could wear at her wedding. (On our recent tour of the house, we were fascinated to see a framed piece of that silk hanging on a wall in the den.)

Skip ahead to 1742, when the grown-up Mary, now living in Londonderry, where the Wilsons had settled, married James Wallace in a dress that some say was made from the pirate’s silk. They proceeded to have

46 | NEWENGLAND.COM

Home | HOUSE FOR SALE

www.chiltons.com UTILITY • QUA L I T Y • SIMPLICITY 866-883-3366 FREEPORT 207-865-4308 • SCARBOROUGH 207-883-3366 PERFECTION IS TIMELESS

Tappan

This swatch of the wedding gown “made from the pirate’s silk” that was worn by Ocean-Born Mary was gifted to the home by one of her descendants in the 1930s.

Chilton’s

side chair. Shown in walnut with grey shaker tape.

Leaf Series by Susan Davens

For buyers, consignors, and the passionately curious FIND WORTH AT SKINNERINC.COM EVERY OBJECT HAS A STORY worth telling, worth find ing. VALUE YOUR COLLECTION. With experts in 24 ﬁelds, Skinner appraisers fulﬁll insurance, probate, and estate planning needs. 508.970.3299

five children, one of whom, Robert, would go on to build what became known as the Ocean-Born Mary House in nearby Henniker, in 1784. Oddly enough, while Robert and his family lived there for years, Mary never did: After her husband died, she lived about a mile away with another of her sons.

Now, the legend that’s not true: The pirate, Don Pedro, actually built the house after retiring from the sea, eventually inviting Mary to live there too. Moreover, this version of the story says that Don Pedro buried treasure somewhere on the grounds and that he himself lies buried beneath one of the 3-ton hearthstones in front of those gigantic fireplaces. All of these fabrications were begun and promoted by a Mrs. Flora Roy, the house’s owner from the 1930s to the 1950s. She apparently enjoyed the attention her tale engendered; we’d bet that it also contributed significantly to the property’s fame.

So there you have it: our third OceanBorn Mary House story in 45 years. Maybe someone who appreciates its historical authenticity and beauty will take over for Terry and Bob Stamps this summer. Then perhaps in 20 or 30 years it’ll become available once again ... in which case we’d hope to mosey on over to Henniker for the fourth time.

For more information, contact Barbara Ruedig at Ruedig Realty, 603-2281947 or barbara@ruedigrealty.com.

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Home | HOUSE FOR SALE

According to one myth, the pirate Don Pedro buried treasure here— and he himself lies beneath one of the hearthstones.

Mint-Green Teal Maine Tourmaline

By now everyone has heard about this famous discovery of mint-green-teal tourmaline just outside the city of Portland SparHawk tourmaline is still being found at this site The predominant color is green but there has been a color shift that you will be hearing more about as the 2017 mining season develops. For now we still have the traditional colors of SparHawk mint-green-teal, in fact this is our best SparHawk collection ever.

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This is a hoot! It’s fun, playful, and such a surprise When we discovered this new stone we knew we just had to have it It’s a salt and pepper granite with little blue azurite spheres nestled within Cut and polished, the blueberries appear scattered beautifully across the surface as only nature can do we’ve never seen quite anything like it Set in sterling silver with 18" chain.

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Food | TECHNIQUES

Boston restaurateur and world champion barbecue pro Andy Husbands hefts a slab of ribs with tangy maple basting sauce (shown in mouthwatering close-up, OPPOSITE ). Recipe, page 58.

GRILLING 101 with

Andy Husbands

BY AMY TRAVERSO

Page 55

LET’S START WITH THE BASICS:

Grilling and barbecuing are not the same. In casual conversation, this distinction doesn’t matter much. “We’re having a barbecue!” is a fine way to describe your burgers-and-dogs cookout. But if you’re talking about technique—and this story is all about the essentials of live-fire cooking—the definitions matter.

Grilling is a way of cooking smaller cuts of meat such as burgers and chicken thighs (or vegetables or fruit or pizzas) quickly and directly over high heat. Barbecue is a “low and slow” approach for larger cuts such as pork shoulder, brisket, and ribs. To barbecue is to turn tough cuts tender through long applications of time and heat, breaking down connective tissue, rendering fat. Grilling is a way of cooking already-tender foods while searing the outside to crispy browned deliciousness.

Grilling is about making dinner. Barbecue is a labor of love.

Andy Husbands knows both the obsessive love and the day-to-day craft of grilling and barbecue. He earned his stripes in the early 1990s cooking over live fire in the kitchen of East Coast Grill, Chris Schlesinger’s groundbreaking restaurant in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Later he opened Tremont 647 and Sister Sorel in Boston, and, most recently, the Smoke Shop in Cambridge’s Kendall Square. In 2007 his barbecue team, IQue, took first place out of 510 teams in the brisket category at the American Royal barbecue competition, and three years later IQue became the first New England team to win the Jack Daniel’s World Championship Invitational in Lynchburg, Tennessee. But Husbands is quick to credit his team leader, Chris Hart, saying that “his relentless practicing, research, and tenacity is the reason for our success.” Husbands shares some of his and Hart’s combined wisdom in a new cookbook, his fifth, called Pitmaster: Recipes, Techniques, and Barbecue Wisdom (Fair Winds Press, 2017).

Even without “relentless practicing,” you can still become a deft backyard cook by understanding the principles of live-fire cooking. For instance, cook smaller, thinner things

for less time and at a higher heat than you would when cooking, say, a whole chicken. “Grilling is inherently about speed,” Husbands says. “Barbecue is about time. You can’t cook over high heat for more than two to three minutes per side or it’s going to burn. So that’s burgers, steaks, and boneless chicken thighs. By the time a bonein chicken thigh center would cook through on high heat, it’ll be burned on the outside.”

We asked Husbands to demonstrate these basic principles as he prepared home cook–friendly recipes for meat and vegetable dishes, each chosen to illustrate a different technique. But there’s one line on which he holds firm: the benefits of charcoal grilling over gas. “Everybody wants to make really good food, which is fantastic,” he says. “And here they have this opportunity to use live fire and develop really great flavors, and they use a gas grill because it’s easier. But grilling over charcoal brings your food from good to great.” Why? “Charcoal burns hotter than propane,” he says. “With both grilling and barbecue, you’re caramelizing the amino acids in your meat, and that happens better and faster with charcoal or hardwood.” Not to mention it lends the flavor of that particular kind of smoke.

And it doesn’t have to be difficult, Husbands says. “Once a week, I go out and clean my grill. If you have a chimney to light the coals, which is the best way, you’re talking about 10 minutes. [Ed. note: In our experience, it’s closer to 15 to 20 minutes.] And honestly, if you’re going to heat a gas grill, that’s going to take five to 10 minutes. Plus, you need time to prep your ingredients. It’s OK to have a drink and relax for a second.”

56 | NEWENGLAND.COM

Food | TECHNIQUES

Still, we can’t deny the appeal of being able to cook with the turn of a knob, so we’ve provided specific instructions for both gas and charcoal for each of the following recipes.

GRILLED ZUCCHINI SALAD WITH ALMONDS, HERBS, AND LEMON

TO TAL T IME : 35 MINU T ES

H ANDS- ON T IME : 35 MINU T ES

Here is a classic example of grilling over high heat (around 400° or more). Zucchini slices are cooked directly over hot coals until lightly browned, then tossed with fresh herbs, almonds, Parmesan, and lemon juice and zest. It’s a fresh summer salad with an Italian accent.

3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for drizzling

5 medium zucchini, ends removed, cut lengthwise into ¼-inchthick slices

Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

¼ cup toasted slivered almonds

¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

¼ cup roughly chopped parsley

10 basil leaves, roughly chopped

8 mint leaves, roughly chopped

Coarse sea salt, for serving

Prepare your grill for high-heat direct grilling (see “Setting Up the Grill,” page 58). Brush the zucchini with the 3 tablespoons of oil and season with salt and pepper. When you can hold your hand over the fire for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, clean the grill grate. Place the zucchini on the grill and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Flip and cook for 1 to 2 minutes more, until it is browned in spots but not soggy. Remove from the heat and place on a cutting board.

Roughly chop the zucchini crosswise and place in a bowl. Add the lemon juice and zest, almonds, Parmesan, and herbs, and toss very gently to combine. Sprinkle with sea salt, drizzle with oil to taste, and serve immedi-

ately (this salad also works well at room temperature). Yields 6 side servings.

SLOW-GRILLED CHICKEN

THIGHS WITH ALABAMA WHITE SAUCE

Grilling over lower heat (approximately 300°) is perfect for bone-in chicken thighs. Alabama white sauce is a simple vinegarmayonnaise blend that’s fantastic on

chicken and pork. If you think barbecue sauce should always come in shades of red, you’re in for a delightful surprise.

FOR THE SAUCE

1 cup mayonnaise

½ cup apple cider vinegar

¼ cup light corn syrup

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon of your favorite hot sauce

| 57 MAY | JUNE 2017

TAL T IME : 1 ½ HOURS

H ANDS- ON T IME : 45 MINU

GRILLED ZUCCHINI SALAD WITH ALMONDS, HERBS, AND LEMON and SLOW-GRILLED CHICKEN THIGHS WITH ALABAMA WHITE SAUCE

FOR THE CHICKEN

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon cracked black pepper

1 teaspoon garlic powder

8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, about 4 ounces each

First, make the sauce: In a medium bowl, whisk all the ingredients until fully incorporated. Cover and set aside.

Next, make the chicken: In a small bowl, stir together the salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Sprinkle the skin

side of the chicken with half of the rub. Prepare your grill for low-heat direct grilling (see “Setting Up the Grill”). When you can hold your hand over the fire for no more than 8 to 10 seconds, clean the grill grate. Set the chicken thighs, skin-side down, on the grate. Sprinkle the remaining rub onto the chicken.

Cook the chicken, covered, for 30 minutes, checking periodically to avoid excessive charring on the skin. Rotate thighs over the fire if there

SETTING UP THE GRILL

With charcoal grilling, controlling heat is the constant challenge. The following techniques, all of which are matched to a recipe, will allow you to achieve the correct temperature for your dish. Instructions for gas grills are included as well. Adapted from Grill to Perfection by Andy Husbands and Chris Hart (Page Street Publishing, 2014).

HIGH-HEAT DIRECT GRILLING (ZUCCHINI SALAD)

On a charcoal grill: Spread an even layer of unlit charcoal (about one briquette or charcoal chunk deep) in the bottom of the grill, then ﬁll your chimney with charcoal. Stuff 2 sheets of newspaper into the bottom of the chimney and light it. When the coals are fully engaged—you should see ﬂames peeking over the top—pour them over the unlit charcoal. When you can hold your hand 5 inches over the grate for no more than 3 to 5 seconds, it’s ready.

On a gas grill: Turn all burners to high.

LOW-HEAT

DIRECT GRILLING (CHICKEN THIGHS)

On a charcoal grill: Spread an even layer of unlit charcoal in the bottom of the grill, then ﬁll the chimney 1 ⁄ 3 full with charcoal. Proceed as described above. When you can hold your hand 5 inches over the grate for no more than 8 to 10 seconds, the ﬁre is ready.

On a gas grill: Turn all burners to low.

TWO-ZONE (HIGHER HEAT/LOWER HEAT) GRILLING (RIBS)

On a charcoal grill: Pile a shoebox-size amount of unlit charcoal onto one side of the grill. Fill the chimney with charcoal and use newspaper to start the ﬁre as described above. When lit, pour the charcoal over the unlit pile. One side of the grill should have an active ﬁre going; the other side should have no charcoal at all. Cover the grill and leave the lid vents open all the way.

On a gas grill: Turn the burners on one side to medium-high. Leave the other side off.

LOW-AND-SLOW BARBECUE (BRISKET)

On a charcoal grill: Start the ﬁre as described above, but bring down the temperature by partially closing the vents, about ¾ of the way, during cooking. On a gas grill: Turn the burners on one side to low. Leave the other side off.

are hot spots. Flip the chicken and continue to cook until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers 170°, about 15 to 20 minutes more. Transfer chicken to a platter and let it rest for 10 minutes. Slather with Alabama white sauce and serve. Yields 4 to 6 servings.

GRILLED RIBS WITH TANGY MAPLE BASTING SAUCE

TO TAL T IME : 2 ½ HOURS

H ANDS- ON T IME : 30 MINU T ES

This north-meets-south dish layers sweettart flavors on ribs with a maple-vinegar mop sauce. Husbands cooks his ribs over a two-zone fire: hot on one side, cooler on the other (“cooler” being a relative term here). The ribs are placed away from the coals, allowing them to cook through without burning.

FOR THE RIBS

1 rack (2½–3 pounds) St. Louis–style pork ribs (see note)

FOR THE BASTING SAUCE

½ cup cider vinegar

½ cup maple syrup

¼ cup water

¼ cup ketchup

1 tablespoon toasted ground cumin

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon kosher salt

FOR THE SPICE RUB

¼ cup paprika

2 tablespoons garlic powder

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon onion powder

1 tablespoon dried thyme

½ tablespoon ground coriander

½ tablespoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon curry powder

First, prep your ribs: Using a paper towel, pull the opaque membrane off the back of the ribs to expose the meat. Rinse the ribs with cold water and place on a sheet pan.

Next, make the basting sauce: In a

58 | NEWENGLAND.COM

Food | TECHNIQUES

medium bowl, whisk together all the ingredients. Brush the ribs generously on both sides with the sauce, and refrigerate, covered, for 1 hour. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, stir together the ingredients for the spice rub.

Prepare your grill for two-zone grilling (see “Setting Up the Grill”). When the temperature reaches about 350°, clean the grill grate. Remove the ribs from the refrigerator and re-baste with any sauce that has accumulated on the sheet pan. Sprinkle the ribs all over with 2 tablespoons of the dry rub, and place them near but not directly over the fire. Cover the grill and cook for 1 hour; if using charcoal, maintain a consistent temperature by adding a large handful of briquettes midway through cooking. After 70 minutes, test the ribs for doneness (they should tear apart easily). If not done, cook an additional 15 minutes, then test again. Remove the ribs from the grill and sprinkle generously with the remaining dry rub. Slice and serve. Yields 4 to 6 servings.

Note: St. Louis–style pork ribs are spareribs that are trimmed to create a rectangular shape, which allows for more consistent browning and even cooking. You can substitute regular spareribs or baby back ribs, which are more commonly available but leaner and less meaty. Spareribs normally take up to 2½ hours to cook, but marinating them in an acidic sauce tenderizes the meat and speeds up cooking time. If using baby back ribs, check for doneness after 1 hour.

SLOW-ROASTED BEEF BRISKET WITH GARLIC-TOMATOFENNEL SAUCE

TOTAL TIME : 5 HOURS

H ANDS- ON TIME : 1 HOUR

And last, we have low-and-slow classic barbecued brisket. This recipe is different from the one that won Husbands’s team first place at the biggest barbecue championship in the world, the American Royal,

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where glory was achieved through multiple rubs, marinades, and injections. But even without such gilding, this is still a darned good cut of meat.

1 beef brisket flat (5–7 pounds), with fat

¼ cup yellow mustard

3 tablespoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon freshly cracked white pepper (you can substitute black)

1 head garlic

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ cup red wine

½ cup low-sodium beef broth

½ tablespoon minced fresh oregano

½ tablespoon minced fresh thyme

8 cherry tomatoes

½ fennel bulb, cored and thinly sliced lengthwise

½ sweet onion, thinly sliced crosswise

1 carrot, thinly sliced

Special equipment: aluminum drip pan, aluminum roasting pan, heavy-duty aluminum foil, probe thermometer

Brush the brisket with mustard, then sprinkle evenly with salt and pepper. Place on a baking sheet and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Twenty minutes before you’re ready to cook, prepare your grill for lowand-slow barbecue (see “Setting

Up the Grill”).

ONLINE EXTRA MORE GREAT GRILLING!

For a bonus seafood recipe from Andy Husbands, go to newengland.com/ grilled-oysters.

When the temperature reaches 300°, clean the grill grate. Place the brisket on the cool side of the grill, with a drip pan positioned below it. Cover the grill and cook the brisket for 3 hours, rotating it once per hour for even cooking. If cooking with charcoal, add a large handful every 30 minutes or so. After 3 hours, insert a thermometer into the center of the meat; it should register about 170°.

Meanwhile, prepare the braising liquid: Take the garlic head and cut off enough of the top so that the tops of all cloves are exposed. Lay it on a piece of foil, drizzle with olive oil, and wrap up

into a package. Set on the cool side of the grill to roast until soft, 30 to 45 minutes; remove from grill. When garlic is cool enough to handle, squeeze each clove out of its papery skin. In a blender on high speed, mix together garlic, wine, broth, oregano, and thyme. Pour into a bowl and set aside.

Layer the tomatoes, fennel, onion, and carrot in the roasting pan. When the brisket has cooked for 3 hours, place it, fat side down, on top of the vegetables. Pour the braising liquid over all

and cover tightly with aluminum foil. Return to the grill and cook 2 more hours, when the thermometer should register 195° in the center of the meat. Remove the pan from the grill and rest the meat. Place the brisket in a large baking dish, then pour the braising liquid and vegetables into a blender and puree until smooth. Pour this liquid over the meat, tent with foil, and let sit at room temperature for 1 hour. Slice the brisket against the grain into ¼-inch-thick slices. Serve with braising liquid. Yields 10 servings.

60 | NEWENGLAND.COM

Food | TECHNIQUES

SLOW-ROASTED BEEF BRISKET WITH GARLIC-TOMATO-FENNEL SAUCE

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THE BEST-KEPT SECRETS FROM THE EDITORS OF MAGAZINE

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Barnard General Store

his is the story of a small Vermont town that lost its general store—its primary marketplace and social heartbeat for 180 years—and how determined citizens came together to bring it back. Lest you find yourself immune to Capra-esque tales of underdog pluck, it’s also the story of a crumb coffee cake that would put any New York deli to shame. And the pancakes! But let’s not get ahead of ourselves.

Back in 2012, after nearly two centuries of operation, the Barnard General Store did the unthinkable and closed down. The small town north of Woodstock, population 947, was left reeling. Longtime operators Carolyn DiCicco and Kim Furlong had been hit hard by an anemic post-Irene foliage season followed by what came to be known as “the winter that wasn’t.” They had poured their lives into the venture, but in the end the numbers just didn’t work. And so went Barnard’s only local grocer, its community hub and ice cream counter, a fueling stop for snowmobilers on the Corridor 12A trail, and a core piece of its identity.

Numbers were crunched, and a remedy was proposed: If a newly formed nonprofit, the Barnard Community Trust (BCT), in partnership with the Preservation Trust of Vermont, could raise half a million dollars, the store’s landlord would be willing to sell the building at a loss. People donated what they could, some larger donors pulled through, and within a year the BCT owned the building, ready to lease it out to new operators.

Enter Joe Minerva and Jillian Bradley, fresh-faced 20-somethings already schooled in the small-town grocery business from stints at the local market in Richmond, near Burlington. Residents were thrilled to have their store back. And then Bradley revealed her secret

| 65 MAY | JUNE 2017

How one Vermont hamlet saved the heart of its community— and got the world’s best pancakes in the bargain.

AMY TRAVERSO

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARK FLEMING OPPOSITE : Childhood sweethearts who first came to Vermont for college, Jillian Bradley and Joe Minerva bring a combined two decades’ worth of grocery experience to running the Barnard General Store.

LOCAL FLAVOR | Food

LEFT : Bradley’s famed pancakes, topped with—what else?—Vermont maple syrup.

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superpower: In addition to the fact that she and Minerva were willing to work 80-hour weeks, she’s a legitimately gifted cook. In her hands, staples like BLTs and home fries sing with zingy extras like sriracha mayo and sharp cheddar. The crumb coffee cake (her grandmother’s recipe) is as tender as cotton candy, with a thick streusel topping perfumed with cinnamon and—what’s that flavor?—love. On weekends there are buttermilk pancakes, served plain or with chocolate chips or blueberries or pumpkin-chai spice. Pancakes may not be a complicated endeavor, but Bradley has mastered the perfect ratio of leavening, buttermilk, and butter, so they reach ideal richness and height without a hint of bitterness.

Now the store is chugging along, riding the rhythms of slow and busy seasons. Bradley and Minerva have trained a solid staff, which allows them to take the day off now and then. Summer people vacationing on Silver Lake, just across the street, boost the ice-cream-and-grocery business. On hot days, children with hair still damp from swimming line up at the window next to the soda fountain for a scoop of cookies-and-cream. Tourists pop in for a bottle of maple syrup with a side of rural authenticity; locals get quinoa, canned corned beef hash, and prepared meals of elevated comfort fare (as in apple-stuffed pork chops or coconut-pecan twice-baked sweet potatoes).

Bradley and Minerva say they’ll measure their progress in terms of decades. “Our number one goal wasn’t to make as much money as possible,” Minerva says, and gestures to the entrance of their store. “It was to make sure that door never locks again.”

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Food | LOCAL FLAVOR

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Quintessentially Coastal

Strawberry-Rhubarb Coffee Cake

Returning to the garden to remake a favorite family recipe.

BY AMY TRAVERSO

lant a rhubarb patch in your garden, and witness nature’s capacity for second, third, and fourth acts. Winter hardy, drought resistant, and seemingly immune to the errant weed whacker, this humble vegetable-that-acts-like-a-fruit seems to bounce back from any affront. Yet for all its vigor, it cooks down to silken tenderness in pies, cobblers, and cakes.

This rhubarb recipe dates back nearly 40 years, to the kitchen of my grandmother Mary. The daughter of Lithuanian immigrants, she married a first-generation son from EmiliaRomagna and dutifully applied her kitchen talents to his heritage as much as hers. So it was her fried dough recipe—not my fully Italian nonni ’s—that yielded the best frittelle on Saint Joseph’s Day.

But of all her standouts, there are two dishes I hold most dear, and the fact that they are both desserts probably says more about my predilections than it does her cooking. Her apple crisp, which we have published in these pages, remains my go-to dessert for fall dinner parties, for comfort, for a visceral memory of her. And then there’s her rhubarb bread, which is tender, sweet-tart, and moist (it’s made, midcentury-style, with vegetable oil instead of butter), with a crunchy sugar topping that always leaves me wanting more.

I still love that rhubarb recipe, but I longed to pretty up its brown-on-brown color palette and add more of that addictive topping. So I

68 | NEWENGLAND.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY MARK FLEMING

Food | NEW VINTAGE COOKING

FOOD AND PROP STYLING BY CATRINE KELTY

doubled the latter, and I added strawberries to both batter and topping for flavor and a pop of color. Switching the baking vessel from a loaf pan to a cake pan increased the surface area, making the results crunchier, not to mention prettier.

STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB COFFEE CAKE

TO TAL T IME : 1 HOUR , 20 MINU T ES

H ANDS- ON T IME : 30 MINU T ES

Note: You can find freeze-dried strawberries in the dried fruit or natural foods aisle of your grocery store. If they are unavailable, you can substitute regular strawberries, sliced lengthwise.

FOR THE TOPPING

2 /3 cup granulated sugar

1 3/4 tablespoons salted butter, melted

FOR THE CAKE

Butter for the pan

1 cup buttermilk

1 cup firmly packed light brown sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for the pan

2 /3 cup vegetable oil

¾ teaspoon table salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 1/3 cups rhubarb (½-inch slices), from 3–4 stalks, depending on size

3/4 cup chopped strawberries

Strawberry slices (either fresh or, for extra crunch, freeze-dried), for garnish

Preheat oven to 330° and set a rack to the middle position. Butter and flour a 9-inch springform pan.

Make the topping: In a small bowl,

stir together the sugar and butter until crumbly. Set aside.

Make the cake: In a medium bowl, stir together the buttermilk, sugar, egg, and vanilla until smooth. In the bowl of a standing mixer, combine the flour, oil, and salt; mix on low until crumbly (scraping down the sides of the bowl once). Add the buttermilk mixture to the flour mixture and beat on medium until smooth. Add the baking soda and baking powder, and beat for several seconds. Fold in the rhubarb and strawberries by hand. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pan and sprinkle evenly with the sugar topping.

Bake the cake until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Just before serving, arrange the strawberry slices in a circle on top, with a few in the center. Serve warm or at room temperature. Yields 8 servings.

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slow boat

big lake

Cruising Lake Champlain in a houseboat is an adventure like no other.

Little Outdoor Giants and friends aboard the 38-foot houseboat they floated from the southern end of Lake Champlain to its northern islands, exploring coves, lakeside villages, and local farms along the way. They began as boating novices, but “when we got back we definitely had sea legs.”

PHOTOGRAPHS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

| 71

BY LITTLE OUTDOOR GIANTS

As the houseboat passed beneath Lake Champlain Bridge, which connects Vermont to New York, Elizabeth Yon kept an eye on watercraft sharing the narrow southern part of the lake.

BOTTOM RIGHT :

The first day’s anchorage at the historic Basin Harbor Club, about 30 miles into the journey. “A killer spot,” according to that day’s journal entry.

n an early Saturday morning last July, a houseboat left Chip Taube’s marina in Orwell, Vermont, near the southern end of 120-milelong Lake Champlain, and began chugging its way north at 8 mph. Steering the boat—and decidedly “out of our comfort zone”—were Jarrod McCabe and Dominic Casserly, a pair of Massachusetts photographers known as Little Outdoor Giants. They, along with a few friends, had rented the floating home from Taube; it’s one of two he maintains for intrepid travelers. Previously for Yankee, Little Outdoor Giants had followed Thoreau’s wilderness paddle in Maine and hiked across New Hampshire’s Presidential Range. This time the plan was simple: to see what would happen during one summer week on a houseboat on New England’s biggest lake. At the end of each day, they wrote and drew in one of their signature leather-bound journals. It’s funny how on all trips I feel anxious that by the end of the trip I still haven’t relaxed, muses one of the entries. Here I find what I was looking for. All the adventure, the natural beauty, the opportunity for a one-of-a-kind New England vacation....

There were some tense moments during the trip—when winds made the waves crest as if at sea, and when throngs of pleasure boats required both patience and attentive steering—but the days proved largely carefree. The travelers learned to navigate coves and narrow streams, chatted with people from around the country, snorkeled, fished, ate well and often, lazed on beaches, walked and biked on shore (and, yes, swatted mosquitoes), and discovered that when you make a slow boat your home, it can take you places you never knew you could find.

—Mel

Allen

72 | NEWENGLAND.COM TOP RIGHT :

Chip Taube has rented houseboats for more than two decades from Chipman Point Marina in Orwell, Vermont. After an hour’s orientation with Little Outdoor Giants, “he pulled us out of the slip and into the small channel. He warned that the winds might make high seas, said ‘good luck,’ and sent us on our way!”

ABOVE : “Eating on the deck, watching the sun set over the green hills. Not a bad way to start a trip.”

TOP RIGHT :

Jon Porter has been at the helm of the Fort Ticonderoga Ferry for 50 years, taking passengers on a seven-minute shuttle between Shoreham, Vermont, and the famous Revolutionary War battle site in Ticonderoga, New York.

BOTTOM RIGHT :

After leaving Basin Harbor, the houseboat had entered Otter Creek to reach the center of Vergennes, docking here. “I felt like Samuel Clemens piloting a riverboat through a narrow and shallow river. It was nerve-racking but successful, as we came out in a lovely cove, with a short walk up to the main street and awaiting ice cream.”

74 | NEWENGLAND.COM

“Lake life is good. I haven’t checked the time in quite a while. The boat has the feeling like it belongs somewhere with cypress trees and Spanish moss. As we wind up our shenanigans at Kingsland Bay State Park (fishing, jumping off the boat, inner tube floating), the low summer sun is shining into the dining room window, and reflections off the water dance on the ceiling. The boat sways with swell. The New York mountains are silhouetted against a pale blue sky with a few lone clouds. The boat swings around the anchor, giving us varying views of 20-foot cliffs and the distant lake.”

76 | NEWENGLAND.COM

LEFT :

“Our anchorage on the north side of Malletts Bay (where Elizabeth snorkeled in crystal waters at sunset) is a dream. We caught sunnies for dinner. Watched a movie we brought: Fool’sGold. A terrible movie, unless you’re sitting on the bow of a boat anchored for a beautiful evening. Then it’s great.”

TOP RIGHT :

In North Hero the crew docked at Hero’s Welcome General Store, where they fortified themselves with doughnuts, then rode bikes to Pomykala Farm. There to greet them was Ben Pomykala, gathering cucumbers.

MIDDLE RIGHT :

Back on the water and heading to Grand Isle, they approached the drawbridge in a section of the lake known as the Gut, where bass fishermen often have good luck casting their lines.

BOTTOM RIGHT :

Charlie’s Boathouse, owned by the Auer family and located on the Burlington Bike Path, was a memorable stop. “Charlie’s is on lake time. It was so dark inside— not a single light on. I ordered a cheeseburger, and Charlie’s sister, Christine (pictured), told me to ‘sit on the swing outside and enjoy the view.’ She told that to every person. Most things on the wall or on the shelves seem like they’ve been there for 50 years. There were vintage life jackets and bamboo fishing poles, and Charlie’s beagle looking for snacks. If Christine and Charlie aren’t around, just ring the bell that’s on the counter. She said it’s been there since her grandmother’s time.”

“In Plattsburgh we slipped through a sea of moored boats, then docked and found a harbor master to get a spot….

When we left, the lake was glassy, with reflections off the water filling the wheelhouse.”

80 |

Summer sailors crowd the slips and moorings at Plattsburgh Boat Basin, where the houseboat crew came ashore and set off for a day of tubing at Ausable Chasm.

TOP LEFT :

After North Hero it was time to seek out some of the smaller islands of Lake Champlain. Off the tip of St. Albans Point, Burton Island State Park beckoned—and proved to be a great spot for a quick dip.

BOTTOM LEFT :

“The cruise to Burton Island was magical. The weather has been insanely good. I fished the docks with the local gang of kids. Peter Jolley (pictured) reeled in a whopper of a bass on a rubber worm. We loved the seclusion we found on the island.”

RIGHT :

“How have we never heard of nor visited Ausable Chasm?! Our boat adventure has been filled with all sorts of amazing swims, but this was on another level! We docked on the New York side, in Plattsburgh, then took a taxi to Port Kent. The chasm does not disappoint. We walked on paths, boardwalks, and trails carved into the rock, 100 feet above the water. The canyon winds and bends on the hike toward the float launch. We floated, relaxing, swimming, and cooling our way through a twisty-turning natural wonder. On a hot summer day, floating down a lazy river, smelling the pine forest, and having a cheeseburger at the snack shop at the end— can’t get better than that.”

The houseboaters’ final day and night was spent on Valcour Island. “A state park of New York, it is a tiny island with a pristine cove, south of Bluff Point, where we anchored for the night. We explored a picturesque sandy beach with tropical-looking foliage and tall grass coming right up to the sand. There was a hiking trail ringing the island, and we followed it to a pictureperfect lighthouse. We watched ospreys nesting in a radio tower, and walked barefoot for miles around this paradise of an island. We made a feast and a fire on the beach, watching night come on over the cove and our houseboat anchored offshore. This is the kind of quiet, adventurous, beautiful, and natural vacation I imagined you’d have to go to the Caribbean or Australia to find. This is why I love New England: paradise in our own backyard.”

IF YOU GO: Champlain Houseboat Charters rents 38-foot houseboats for cruising Lake Champlain in the summer and early fall. Each boat is built to sleep six, but can accommodate eight, and costs $250 per day plus fuel and a cleaning fee. Booking well in advance is highly recommended. For more information, go to champlainhouseboatcharters.com

84 |

THE AUDACITY OF LIZ PUTNAM

A STORY FOR ANYONE WHO WONDERS WHETHER A SINGLE PERSON CAN CHANGE THE WORLD.

BY MEL ALLEN

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARK FLEMING

PAGE 86

Among the many mementos Liz Putnam has accumulated in her 60-year crusade to preserve public lands, she especially treasures the simple gift of a park ranger’s hat ( OPPOSITE ) from the National Park Service.

ike most origin stories, this one begins at the intersection of chance and destiny.

Liz Titus Putnam is telling it to me on a soft summer morning in South Shaftsbury, Vermont, about five miles north of Bennington, as we sit outside on a patio with her husband, Bruce, looking out at West Mountain. The peaceful farmstead, called Manatuck Farm, has been in her family since 1951, when her parents detoured to Vermont to see a friend while on their way to scout coastal properties for a second-home retreat from New York City. The friend showed them a once-sturdy 18th-century farm that had fallen into disuse, and to their surprise they fell in love with the possibilities and the views that took their breath away. For years they pulled up boulders, repaired buildings, planted gardens, breathing new life into a farm that today is graced with elegant tall maples and a broad meadow laced with bluebird houses that rolls toward the woods. There are outbuildings and a horse barn, and standing across the narrow country road is the white house where Liz’s daughter, Phebe, lives. When Liz talks about the farm—how she learned to handle a team of horses to cultivate corn, to drive the John Deere tractor that still stands in the barn after nearly seven decades of use, the way storms light up the sky, her many dogs that lived and died here—her eyes sparkle, and then at times they close, as if she’s in a reverie of memories. And there are moments when tears well up. “I get leaky,” she says.

PARENTS INGRAINED IN THEIR CHILDREN THE IDEA THAT “IF YOU NEED TO DO SOMETHING,

Liz is full of bounce and vigor at 83, as befits someone who has hiked endless miles on some of the most beautiful trails in America. Bruce has a few years on her, but he, too, looks as if he could hop onto the tractor that at this moment a farmer is steering as he cuts

hay in the meadow. It’s late August, and on many farms it should be the third cutting, but this is the first—“to the dismay of the farmer,” Liz says. She won’t allow a single cutting until the bobolinks have finished nesting in the fields and coaxed their babies to flight.

Out in the field, we see five wild turkeys pecking at the soil.

The origin story Liz tells is about her Student Conservation Association (SCA), which you may never have heard of, although it’s the reason that anyone who’s stepped foot in a national park has walked in her shadow. When only in her early twenties, she wedged her way into the male-dominated world of park rangers and superintendents and created what had never existed before in America: a youth volunteer conservation movement. Years later, Roger Kennedy, former director of the National Park Service, praised SCA as contributing “more to the national parks than any private volunteer partner in the parks’ history.” Today more than 10,000 youth from all backgrounds apply to fill some 4,000 SCA openings, and they fan out each year to work in national, state, and city parks.

This is an auspicious day for me to be here. News has just come that Maine has gained a new wilderness park— some 87,000 acres of mountains, forests, and waterways—to be named Katahdin Woods and Waters National

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THE STUDENT

COURTESY OF

CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION (VINTAGE PHOTOGRAPHS)

The cofounders of what would become the Student Conservation Association are shown here in 1958, when they were still two recent Vassar graduates named Liz Cushman, left, and Marty Hayne. “Our goal when we started was just not to be in the way,” Liz jokes today.

LIZ’S

Monument. Tomorrow marks the centennial of the National Park Service, and while the occasion is being celebrated across the country, we are here, talking about one of its most important and little-known stories while watching a farmer haying a meadow.

Liz is telling me about chance. It was one evening in October 1953, and Elizabeth “Liz” Sanderson Cushman, then a 20-year-old college junior, had settled into a chair at the Vassar College library in Poughkeepsie, New York, and begun thumbing through the latest issue of Harper’s Magazine . A provocative headline caught her eye: “Let’s Close the National Parks.” The article was written by historian Bernard DeVoto, who argued that America had neglected its most precious landscapes. Beneath his simmering anger was an urgent plea for help. He wrote that Yellowstone, Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, and Rocky Mountain National Park, among others, had become “slums,” overrun with tourists hungry for adventure after the war. He told of parks with fewer summer rangers than in the 1930s, but with 12 times

as many visitors. He described rangers who worked 16-hour days, seven days a week, many living with their families in tar-paper barracks built years earlier, and whose morale, he said, was “eroding.” His solution: Until Congress cared enough to properly fund the parks and restore their standing as “priceless” resources, it needed to “close and seal them, assign the Army to patrol them and so hold them secure till they can be reopened.”

Who knows how many people may have read DeVoto’s story, sighed, and then went about their lives? And this is where Liz’s story turns to the role that destiny plays. It was as though she had been raised to act on DeVoto’s plea, when going about her life meant one thing: Go and help those beleaguered rangers . “And I felt there were other young people,” she adds, “who would love the opportunity to do work that needed to be done. The idea seemed so obvious and simple.”

Obvious and simple, perhaps, to someone whose childhood was spent on Long Island when it was still a verdant landscape of forests and fields; growing

SCA began in 1957 at just two sites, Grand Teton National Park and Olympic National Park. But by the time this photo was taken—showing young volunteers at Rocky Mountain National Park in 1971—the program had become widely established in parks and forests at the national, state, and local levels.

up, Liz kept animals and even walked with her pet goat to the post office. “We all need adventure,” her father would say, and he’d tell her about his cavalry days riding after Pancho Villa. He led his family on wilderness expeditions in northern Quebec, which began with their boarding a train in Montreal, then stopping long after midnight “in the middle of nowhere.” Following native guides, they paddled and portaged three days deeper, until they reached a cabin so remote that Liz remembers the sounds of moose grazing in the underbrush, trout splashing, the howl of wolves in the night. She would always say, “The stillness, the quietness, the beauty stayed with me forever.”

But she also knew her father had nearly died from gas attacks in World War I, and her mother had been a miracle birth, a 1-pound preemie whose twin sister did not survive. Her mother, whose New England roots stretched back to the Mayflower, would tell Liz, “We are fortunate to have been given life. But along with that gift should come the question, Why am I here? What can I do with my life that is positive? ”

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YOU SIMPLY DO IT.” ANOTHER, PERHAPS MORE ENDURING LESSON: “ALL THINGS ARE POSSIBLE.”

Liz pauses. “They were so resilient. They ingrained in my brother and me that if you need to do something, you do it. You simply do it.” And one other thing, she adds, perhaps the most enduring lesson of all that her parents passed along: “All things are possible.”

The road to possible led Liz straight to the office of A. Scott Warthin Jr., her academic adviser and head of Vassar’s geology department. Warthin had recently established a new interdepartmental conservation major, one of the first of its kind in the country. She had this idea, she told him. She wanted to become a conservation major and write her senior thesis on how to create a student conservation corps modeled after the New Deal’s Civilian Conservation Corps. But she didn’t want just to write a paper—she wanted to bring the idea to life.

After much interdepartmental pushing and pulling to get her idea approved, Warthin prevailed and

went into hospital, and he could hardly talk. He just patted the award.” She pauses. “Thank God for that man. He had faith in his kids.”

On this day Liz has just returned from a western tour, during which she met (and hugged) nearly 200 student workers at the Grand Canyon and then traveled six hours south to Saguaro National Park. Over the years she has hugged thousands of student volunteers—many now parents, even grandparents. “When you see these kids and their hopes, you feel great on every level,” she says.

Liz, whose title with SCA is founding president, has 60 years of stories to tell. They trace how SCA grew from its tenuous grass roots—when her “office” was often the trunk and back seat of her car—into a $35 million nonprofit with a national operations center in Charlestown, New Hampshire, and headquarters in Arlington, Virginia. Her voice carries a hint of hoarseness, left over from the trip, but her hands dance in the air as she punctuates SCA

signed fund-raising letters “E. Sanderson Cushman,” aware that women were not yet regarded as strong enough to go into the wilderness and hold their own.) “So many people rescued us,” she says. “Miracle people kept appearing.”

The student corps’ trial run began in the summer of 1957, when Grand Teton National Park and Olympic National Park greeted a few dozen volunteers with hard backcountry work and cabins to live in; Liz had raised just enough funds to give these pioneers room and board. “We went by the seat of our pants that first year,” Liz says. “Marty and I were just two girls figuring things out.”

But a few dozen students became a few hundred, then a few thousand, word spreading across the country, from park to park, volunteer to volunteer, that here was an opportunity where need met youth, and the youth came through. Since the first students picked up shovels and axes, more than 80,000 SCA volunteers have worked millions of hours clearing trails,

OVER THE YEARS SHE HAS HUGGED THOUSANDS OF STUDENT VOLUNTEERS—MANY NOW PARENTS, EVEN

found a way for her to get the required credits. Her voice becomes emotional when she describes how they stood together at the Department of the Interior in 1986 to receive conservation awards: Liz and Marty Hayne Talbot, her partner in the Student Conservation Corps (its earliest name) when it was starting out, and her teacher, now ill and frail. “It was the greatest day for me,” Liz says. “It was just before he

milestones along the way. When she closes her eyes in the telling, it’s as though she again is tramping through a forest, stepping lightly on mosses, climbing a mountain. Memories always seem to circle back to chance and destiny—she wonders at the fortuitous meetings with environmental leaders who encouraged her at a time when it would have been easy for her to be daunted. (For instance, at the start she

building cabins, fixing bridges, restoring wildlife habitats—whatever needs to be done. And while they are working and exploring, the natural world grabs many and won’t let go: SCA says seven out of every 10 program alumni are now working or studying in an environmental field.

The walls and tables of the Putnam house are lined with Liz’s awards and citations from nearly every notable

ERIKA BARKER (SCA CREW); COURTESY OF THE STUDENT CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION (PUTNAM) 90 | NEWENGLAND.COM

FROM LEFT : SCA volunteers clear downed trees in Florida’s Big Cypress National Preserve in an effort to protect the nesting sites of redcockaded woodpeckers against wildfires; Liz Putnam embraces SCA crew members at a youth conference at Vermont’s Marsh-BillingsRockefeller National Park in 2015.

conservation agency in the country. There’s a photo of President Obama hugging her in 2010 after awarding her the Presidential Citizen Medal. But the memento she might hold most dear is the humble wide-brimmed hat

easily tolerate in herself—“It’s always better to be hopeful than hopeless,” she says—but she fears for the future of public lands if climate-change deniers and anti-environmentalists sweep into power.

a pasture and a barn full of animals. She has the pasture and the barn, and there have been many animals. What life gave her was “one daughter, four stepchildren, and seven stepgrandchildren.” She also has some 80,000 men

of a park ranger, given to her by the National Park Service, which to her says she is one of them.

One of her proudest accomplishments, though, is not on any wall. For three months in the summer of 1988, wildfires raged through Yellowstone National Park. The next year Liz, at 55, applied to join an SCA crew that, with the need in Yellowstone so great, was taking volunteers of all ages. When she was accepted, she says, “I skipped down the driveway.” The rest of the crew did not know she was SCA’s founder as they worked on a burned-out bridge across a creek, replacing destroyed sections, hauling them away, building it anew. She was covered in soot, sore, tired, and elated.

Morning has turned into afternoon. The tractor has stopped its work in the field. When the conversation turns from the past to today, Liz grows somber for a moment. It’s a feeling she does not

She tells a story that, for her, represents everything she has worked against. A man she once met in Arizona told her that environmentalists were killing America. “He said he had the right to do whatever he wanted, whenever he wanted. He didn’t care about climate change because he wouldn’t live long enough to worry about its destructive potential. I said, ‘Don’t you have children?’ He told me it would be their problem, not his.” She sighs at the memory. “Anger does not do you any good,” she chides herself. “If you let anger get control, then everyone gets hurt.”

Instead, she steers her thoughts to what she knows best, and believes in: the power of young people to do good, heading into forests and lakes and streams. “SCA has always given me the feeling of hope for the future,” she says.

“When I see the kids in action, it puts life back in me again.”

Liz once had visions of a house full of children (six, to be exact) and

and women of all ages who connect back to that young woman reading a magazine and deciding to do something that had never been done before.

This June, Liz Putnam will return to Grand Teton National Park for the 60th anniversary celebration of the first student volunteers who reported to work there, back in that summer of 1957. Liz will have turned 84 in April, and she acknowledges there may not be endless milestone anniversaries ahead. She will speak and there will be hugs aplenty. Her message will be the same as it was in 1957, as it has been in all the years that followed: Don’t just look at the trails the kids fix up, or the wildlife habitats they improve, or the bridges they build. The work is just the starting point. The important stuff happens later, when a kid finds out that after a bridge is built you don’t just put the tools away and leave. After a bridge is built, you can walk across and find what waits on the other side.

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GRANDPARENTS. “WHEN YOU SEE THESE KIDS AND THEIR HOPES, YOU FEEL GREAT ON EVERY LEVEL.”

Family photos share space in Liz’s den with awards and reminders of her long career. At left is a relief of Liz created by sculptor Larry Nowlan, an SCA alum. On the table, the large photo left of center shows Liz’s father, Edward Sanderson Cushman, who helped instill in his daughter a love of wild places.

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A PLACE TO GET AWAY

TIME SLOWS DOWN AT A MAINE SUMMER CAMP.

BY WAYNE CURTIS

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Painting by William Lloyd Duncan

y wife and I own a Toastmaster Automatic Popup Model 1B14, which was made by the McGraw Electric Company in the late 1940s or early 1950s. We got it with the camp we bought in eastern Maine nearly two decades ago. It makes toast. Perfectly. Every time. You put in two pieces of bread. You press the Bakelite handle down. The toast pops up less than three minutes later, and the bread is crisply and evenly browned on both sides. Apparently it,s been doing this for longer than I,ve been alive. This strikes me as a small miracle, given that every new toaster I,ve ever bought has been flawed in one or more ways: striated toasting, requirement of repeated down-clicks, passive-aggressive rebellion against the repeated down-clicks, far too much standing around and fingertip drumming. And still these often make toast that somehow fails to match the replicable standard of being crispy on the outside and pliable on the inside. Also, the new toasters that I buy invariably stop working after a few years, and require replacement. I understand we are in a golden age of technology, yet it appears we,ve lost the ability to produce machines that can consistently make toast. There are other things at our camp that impress me similarly—our place is essentially a museum of Darwinian technology. Anything that failed was discarded, and items that have proven themselves over the past half century remain. (Also, a camp year is approximately four months, so things wear out less rapidly.) Our electric range, I,m guessing, dates to the late 1950s, the outboard engine to the early 1970s, and the avocado-green rotary-dial phone in the kitchen is clearly mid-1970s. All work just fine. The cherry-red living room carpet was likely installed in the 1960s, yet it has not faded where the sun hits it. The carpet probably should be in the Smithsonian, an artifact of when America knew how to make synthetics that can last forever yet still offer comfort when the shirtless choose to repose on the floor on a warm afternoon.

We bought our camp in Maine’s Washington County for many of the reasons people buy camps. That is, to have a place to get away when the weather is warm, a place so quiet you can hear moose crashing through the underbrush on the ridge above, or a squally wind rising in the pines a mile away down the lake. When we bought it, it seemed a matter of simple geography, of finding a place with less pavement than soil, with more quadrupeds than bipeds.

But after 20 summers, I’ve come to realize that the essence of a camp is more complicated than that. A summer camp is not about place. It’s about time.

y camp clock starts each summer with a quick survey of our property. Even before unlocking the door, I walk once round the house, figuratively sniffing, like a dog sussing out an unfamiliar place. Our camp is surrounded by a dozen or so towering hemlocks and white pines, and I first check for winter casualties. Once inside, I insert a brick-size fuse that allows the electricity to flow again. Then I literally sniff. There’s a spot between the coat closet and the fuse box where mice often host what appears to be their own annual Coachella; if I can smell it from four or more feet away, I know to put nest extrication

and space sterilization on the list of chores for that afternoon. I also inspect the interior to see if our winter bandit has made off with anything substantial—usually not, although this bandit is crafty and knows to take things that might not be missed right away. One year it was a braided carpet. Another year it was a tent. And one year it was a half-dozen bandanas in my sock drawer. Who steals a half-dozen bandanas? I assume it’s someone who doesn’t want to make the 45-minute drive to the nearest Walmart.

Afterward, I walk the trail through the pines and down to the water to see what the ice has moved around.

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(WALL BACKGROUND); PREVIOUS SPREAD: MADAWASKA LAKE, MAINE, ERNEST AND LEVINA JOHNSON’S NORTH SHORE CAMP

Usually, the alder-covered point and the small pebbly beach next to it have shifted almost imperceptibly. Ice is slow, but it’s steady. It took me almost a decade to even notice that the land was creeping away. But now the fact that the point shortens and the sand migrates each by a few inches every winter strikes me as a dramatic change. I know there’s nothing that can be done about it, and it seems that eventually— although not in my lifetime—we will no longer have a beach, and my neighbor will. The movement of the sand puts me in mind of sand clocks.

Our camp, like so many on Maine lakes, was originally built thanks to a society-wide realignment of people’s relationship with time. For centuries, only the wealthy had the capacity to cease working for extended periods, often in the summer, when the weather was agreeable. Everyone else worked nonstop to raise livestock and grow produce to survive (especially in the summer), or made handcrafted objects to be sold, affording them little luxury of time. “Before the 1830s, everything was made individually,” says Steve Pinkham, who has been researching Maine sporting camps for years. “With the industrial revolution came mass-produced stuff, and it also created a middle class.”

That middle class found itself with some unaccustomed free time and a bit of cash. What to do with it? The sporting life was in full flower by the end of the 19th century—former Civil War soldiers had returned to civilian life, and many brought with them outdoor skills and a fondness for activities like baseball, boxing, horse racing, camping, and fishing. America set off into the woods en masse, including the Maine woods, which were convenient by train and steamship to many eastern seaboard cities.

The rise of the sporting life had a coconspirator: the improvement of the window screen. The woven wire industry had been around since the early 19th century, but rust was an endemic problem, and not until galvanized wire became widespread around 1900 did

practical, inexpensive window screens emerge. At the same time, there arose an increased awareness of mosquitoes serving as vectors of diseases—Walter Reed made the connection with yellow fever in 1901—and suddenly screens were everywhere. Screens were “no longer a luxury but a necessity of modern life,” insisted Sears Roebuck in its ads. They meant one could spend time relaxing rather than attending an involuntary festival of swatting.

Sporting camps were built for these newly affluent sportsmen, and many later bought lakefront land and built their own places. Those who already lived here went deeper into the woods. In the more remote parts of Maine, mill workers often acquired their own

As best I can tell, we are the third owners of our camp, which dates back to the early 1950s. The man who built it was evidently a paper mill executive; when he took up hammer and nail the only access was by boat. He later sold it to a nearby pharmacist, who spent nearly 40 summers with his family here, along the way adding some small buildings and widening a logging road to allow access by car.

camps—it was part of the social contract. They worked hard making paper and two-by-fours; in return, they received not only a decent salary and vacations but also access to waterfront property on company timberlands. It was common practice for these workers to pay a lease fee of about $50 a year for 50 feet of lakefront, and in exchange they were allowed to pitch a tent or build a lean-to so they could spend their weekends fishing and hunting.

As savings allowed, they’d boat in some lumber and nails to build a basic cabin, and then they’d bring their family, and eventually their kids would grow up and move away to Connecticut. But the kids would come back in summer, and with their improved incomes they might build something bigger and more ambitious. Then the next generation—the grandkids who grew up in Connecticut and then moved to New York City—would lose interest in the Maine woods and sell the camp after it was passed down to them. And so a retired insurance agent from Boston who loved to fish could buy it, and the intergenerational process would begin anew.

We bought the place fully furnished, down to sheets and towels, from the pharmacist in 1998, after hearing through a mutual friend that he was thinking of selling. The day we purchased it we went by his house in Calais and sat in his living room. We gave him a down payment, and we agreed on an interest rate and monthly payment. (We never once visited a lawyer or a bank.) He then gave us keys and a brown paper bag with a set of antique nature identification guides, two rolls of toilet paper, and a new steel brush for cleaning the barbecue grill. He apologized for having forgotten to clean the grill when he was last there.

Camp is an elusive noun, and subject to many gradations with regional variations. Essentially, it’s a subset of summer home and a sibling to cottage, another slack term that resists efforts to tone up. In Maine, camp usually means a place that’s not inhabited year-round and tends to be inland. (Cottages tend to be coastal, although not always.) A camp can be a fishing camp or a hunting camp or just a camp, although none of these should be confused with children’s summer camps, which proliferated in the early 20th century and in the Internet age survive only through nostalgia and institutional momentum.

The vague vocabulary can be confusing to outsiders, who look at real estate ads and see no difference between a “vacation home,” a “camp,” a “cottage,” or, for that matter, a “house.” (Confusing matters more, what would be called a camp in Maine is often called a cottage in Canada.)

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WHEN WE BOUGHT OUR CAMP, IT SEEMED A MATTER OF SIMPLE GEOGRAPHY, OF FINDING A PLACE WITH LESS PAVEMENT THAN SOIL, WITH MORE QUADRUPEDS THAN BIPEDS.

According to The Oxford English Dictionary, the term cottage has been used in North America since at least the 1880s to describe “a summer residence (often on a large and sumptuous scale) at a watering-place or a health or pleasure resort”; its first recognized use was in reference to resorts in Bar Harbor. In her book Country Cottages: A Cultural History , Karen Sayer, an Englishwoman, defined a cottage as being of “small size,” with an “organic unevenness shaped by time and weather” and an “unpretentious interior.” That definition works quite well for a camp, although perhaps a more encompassing definition would be this: A camp is a small, nonpolluting manufactory at a remove from others, where, with the application of time, memories are crafted.

After I return each summer, I spend about two days sweeping up mouse pellets and tacking screens back into place. It’s part of a seasonal cadence, an annual ritual, but at a certain point,

only the occasional glissando. By the next-to-last day you’re hardly aware anyone is around—I like to believe a concerted effort is under way to complete a 1,000-piece jigsaw puzzle before departure, although maybe they’re just napping. Then comes the final day, and new door-slamming rhythms signal imminent departure. Soon will come the distant hum of a vacuum cleaner, followed by shouted riffs on the theme of “I said now !”

Nobody wants to leave. But finally the last car door slams, more hesitantly now. Arrival slams are like exclamation points, where departure slams are like closing parentheses. Then the fading sound of tires on gravel. Then silence, until the next arrival.

Of course, I have my own personal ebb and flow throughout the summer. I spend much of my time here alone— until my wife gets away from her job and arrives for three or four weeks and we load tents and sleeping bags into the canoe and head up the lake to camp out

games until late, sleep until noon, and then spend the day consuming the entirety of the refrigerator.

All eight were visiting three summers ago when a powerful nor’easter blew in late at night. A large maple tree fell across the road, blocking us in, and our water started to fail after the winds churned up hemlock needles, which got into the intake pipe. The kitchen sink and the toilet failed, one after the other. Then the power went out.

It resulted in one of the more memorable visits, mostly in a good way. Like generations before us, we found that when chores have purpose and meaning, teens are good for hauling water and firewood; the sullen grousing fades. The rains passed by, and we moved the kitchen outdoors for a couple of days—cooking over open fires, which also served to heat water for cleaning dishes. In the evening, we played board games by candlelight.

Upon leaving, one of the parents commented that most summers we

usually after about a week, the sense of occupying a calendar composed of months fades, and I start to notice again the daily, short-cycle rhythms of summer life.

The ultimate camp sound is that of a slightly rusty screen door being stretched as someone in a camp down the lake heads outside, and then slamming shut with a brief thunderclap that, two or three seconds later, echoes across the lake.

Camp owners or renters often come for a week at a time around our cove, generally arriving on a weekend afternoon. That’s when I hear the distant sounds of tires slowing on gravel, and doors slamming— pompf! pompf! pompf! —and then the shouts of excitable children, soon followed by the repeated shrieks that punctuate leaps into a cold lake. This excitability slackens by the second day and becomes a more measured performance, with

on islands and forested points.

Friends steadily filter in throughout the summer, with regular, longtime visitors arriving on “their weeks,” and newcomers fitting in between. I always welcome this, particularly when I can entice my nieces and nephews to come north to visit. Youth is pleasingly allergic to the complacency of camp life, and prefers at least the illusion of hazard and escapade. So we explore mossy ledges, and always detour by a large glacial erratic in the lake that’s ideal for leaping and diving into clear water. Each time a niece now asks me, “Aren’t there any higher rocks?” I recall the terror in their faces when they refused to jump off when younger.

We also have two couples, friends from college, who have been coming with their respective pairs of kids every summer for more than a dozen years. So the kids have grown from 6-yearolds into hulking teens who play board

went out looking for adventure. That summer, the adventure came to us.

Our town, which has a year-round population well into the low three digits, got a grant and installed an 80-foot tower a few years back in order to bring in highspeed Internet. The town felt this was essential to prevent the population from dipping into the low two digits. Many residents installed pizza box–size receivers that allowed the Internet to come into their homes in torrents. We haven’t been able to do this at our place; there’s a hill between our camp and the tower, so the Internet company tells us that we’re in a shadow that blocks us from accessing the cloud. Also, there are the trees—the technician who came out to investigate wrote on his form “1,000 feet of trees” as another reason for our being an involuntary informational hermitage.

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THE ULTIMATE CAMP SOUND IS THAT OF A SLIGHTLY RUSTY SCREEN DOOR BEING STRETCHED AS SOMEONE HEADS OUTSIDE ... AND THEN SLAMMING SHUT WITH A BRIEF THUNDERCLAP THAT, TWO OR THREE SECONDS LATER, ECHOES ACROSS THE LAKE.

I used to have positive associations about summer and clouds and shadows and trees, but now our relationship is more complicated.

In truth, I’m a bit relieved we don’t have Internet access at our place. The Internet is to time what a vending machine is to nutrition: always there, always tempting, always full of empty calories. I actually work from our camp most of the summer and need to be periodically connected to the world so editors can yell at me and send me emails in all caps. The avocado-green rotary-dial phone is helpful, as cell service here is also nonexistent—except on days of high cloud cover and low atmospheric pressure and if the phone is propped up in the second window from the front, near the dining room table.

To collect email, I usually walk three-quarters of a mile through the woods into town, where I can tap into the Wi-Fi aquifer. I used to do this at the post office, and it brought me a small amount of joy to tell people I had

to walk to the post office to collect my email. But the post office closed down three years ago, and our postmistress was replaced with roadside highdensity mail clusters, steel boxes that bring to mind Soviet-era housing developments. Now I often get email at the general store, which also has Wi-Fi and where I can eat potato chips as I respond to shouting editors.

So in lieu of frantically clicking around Facebook and Twitter, I read books in the summer. Around the first of each year, back in my winter stomping grounds, I’ll start to fill a milk crate with books. Then I spend summer mornings and evenings on the screened-in porch, reading. It takes a while to get back into that rhythm— I’m not ashamed to admit that more than once I put my finger on a word and hoped for a window to pop up

and define it. Though reading in print feels a little retro at first, I find I can slip into the habit easily. Canoeing rapids is fun, but so is paddling across a wide and placid lake, slowly, with measured strokes, with plenty of time to enjoy the view.

Closing up for the season is much faster than opening up. I nail up the shutters and drain the pipes and hide shiny things that might catch the eye of our winter bandit. And if there’s bread left, I’ll scatter it in the yard for the birds and squirrels. I’ll save one slice to make a last piece of toast.

And then I’ll get into my car and pull out without looking back, because to do so is too sad. I leave the camp to the woods—to the mice and squirrels and the winter bandit and the towering trees that in the snows may come crashing down expensively.

And so I plunge back into the nattering, quickening torrent of everyday life. Until next year.

COURTESY OF THE AUTHOR | 97 MAY | JUNE 2017

Built in the 1950s and left largely unaltered, the author’s camp preserves the simplicity and ease of those pre-high-tech days.

THE ISLAND DOCTOR

IN THE NANTUCKET PRACTICE OF TIM LEPORE, MEDICINE AND CARING ARE DISPENSED IN EQUAL DOSES.

rom the ferry, it’s only a short walk before the Nantucketness of Nantucket comes into view. Up Broad Street you go, past the bike rental shops, a few restaurants, and the whaling museum. Swing a left onto Beach, where the crowds thicken, the traffic too, as beat-up trucks jockey for position with pricey SUVs and uncertain pedestrians. Different lives, different destinations.

Some are headed to the stores that line wide, cobblestoned Main Street; others to the big homes just beyond, symbols of the island’s privileged lineage. It’s a mix of classes and backgrounds, heritage and fortunes. Here is a carpenter. There is a hedge fund manager. Here is a schoolteacher. There is a Fortune 500 CEO.

BY IAN ALDRICH PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARK FLEMING

Beyond the draw of the island itself, the single biggest connection that the local, the visitor, and the rich and famous all share can be found about a mile from downtown, on the campus of Nantucket Cottage Hospital. There, in a small gray-shingled building, you can find the island’s only surgeon and primary care physician. The one place, the one person that Nantucket residents, whether a former secretary of state or a land squatter everyone calls “Underground Tom,” go to when they’re injured or sick.

It is the office of Dr. Tim Lepore.

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On a Thursday morning, around 8, in early September, that office is starting to fill with patients. Lepore, who is dressed in beige pants, a blue buttondown, and sneakers, is in the back part of the building, shaking his head.

“Doris!” he barks, addressing a woman in her seventies who’s sitting in front of a computer. “The penguin.” He gestures toward a large plastic bird on the floor near the refrigerator. “You were supposed to put it outside. What happened?”

Doris, who is working her way through a stack of patient documents, is not having any of it. “I didn’t have time,” she shoots back, continuing to work. “I’ve got a lot to do.”

Lepore, who may stand 6 feet on his tiptoes, has a cleanly shaved head, a neatly trimmed gray mustache, and glasses. He lets out a single-note highpitched laugh and grabs the bird by the neck. “You’re disappointing me, Doris,” he says. “You know that.”

He pushes open the back door, steps outside, and places the penguin

next to his other plastic pets: a chatty frog, a set of pink flamingos, and a big goose. They face out toward the hospital’s main building, allowing them to both greet new visitors and poke at his bosses, who don’t always share his levity. “There,” he says, looking proudly at the collection. “Now we’re ready to start the day.”

For the 72-year-old Lepore, it’s a day that will put him at the center of the 49 lives that stream through his office. He’ll clip out stitches from a dog-bitten hand, remedy an ingrown toenail, inject steroids into a pair of beat-up knees, clip off cancer splotches, and deliver some good news to a man with a collapsed lung. He’ll discuss with a young mother his work to combat her heroin addiction, and he’ll ease the worries of a nervous older man about an upcoming hernia operation. The less urgent moments will come too, like conversations with patients about the delicacies of Filipino cuisine, prized dog breeds, and this year’s high school football team. He’s a small-community doctor in the

most important sense: part physician, part advocate, part friend.

“I like to take care of people,” Lepore is fond of saying. “Treating them is my thing.”

Just what form that takes is as varied as the patients who come to him.

Lepore’s path to medicine followed a straight line. His father, John, a trained surgeon, ran a family practice out of a second-floor garage space at the family home in Marlborough, Massachusetts, 30 miles west of Boston. Lepore shared few interests with his father except one: medicine. John Lepore also served as chief of surgery at Marlborough Hospital, and every New Year’s Day he brought his son to work. There, the young Lepore shadowed his dad in the OR and looked over his shoulder as he operated.

Lepore graduated from Harvard in 1966 and Tufts medical school four years later. Following his surgical residency, the newly married doctor relocated to Providence in 1975 to take a

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COURTESY OF NANTUCKET COTTAGE HOSPITAL (ARCHIVE PHOTOGRAPH)

job in the emergency room at Roger Williams Medical Center. But city life and the rigid job structures that came with working at a big hospital felt confining. Lepore couldn’t simply bound outdoors to go birding or long-distance running; hospital hierarchy relegated him to just being a surgeon.

Nantucket was a happy accident. In August 1981, Lepore landed a monthlong stint in the island’s ER, which was often understaffed during summer. He and his wife, Cathy, a trained nurse, returned the following year. On the ferry home at the end of that second summer, Lepore looked at Cathy and said, “Why are we going back?”

As it happened, the island’s lone surgeon was retiring. Lepore applied for the job, and on January 1, 1983, he started his new position. “My bosses [in Providence] refused to believe I was leaving until my last day,” says Lepore. “‘You won’t like it,’ they kept saying. ‘You’ll get bored and won’t grow.’”

OPPOSITE : Lepore, left, in his early years on Nantucket (c. mid-1980s), peers at x-rays with the hospital’s radiologist, Dr. Kenneth Seagrave.

LEFT : This bobblehead in Lepore’s image was a gift from one of his patients. “There are only two of these in the world, and she has the other one—I think it’s part of her shrine to me,” Lepore jokes.

BELOW : Lepore chats with patient Kenneth Bidlack during a checkup. The room’s institutional decor isn’t Lepore’s style, but his own office was being renovated at the time.

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“I’VE LEARNED TO BE MORE PATIENT AND CARING … I LISTEN TO PEOPLE MORE.”

favorite dogs, and there’s a black-andwhite of a shirtless 16-year-old Lepore standing next to his 1955 Chevy. The waiting area has two large glass cases that display human skulls, arrowheads, knives, and a Civil War medical kit.

“It’s like a bad museum,” says Diana Hull, a nurse who’s worked with Lepore for 15 years. “Every time I look, I see something stranger. I think it’s because his wife doesn’t want the stuff hanging around their house.”

Wrapped around the whole scene is Lepore’s love for guns. Framed posters and old advertisements for firearms share wall space with the other pictures. Two of the examining rooms are named “Colt” and “Smith & Wesson.” The staff bath is referred to as the “P-Shooter Room.” In a nurse’s filing cabinet he keeps a pair of antique pistols given to him by a patient; in the cleaning supply cabinet there’s a set of old rifles.

The decor is in part a reflection of Lepore’s renegade streak, a defiant personality carving out some independence in a field that’s predisposed to a love of rules. But the collection serves another purpose: It underscores Lepore’s wish to make those who come to his office feel welcome. This is not a place of cold, blank walls or impersonal doctor visits. His history here stretches across lives and generations. Beyond his patients’ files, he knows their stories, where they’ve come from, what they’re sometimes up against. He’s hunted, fished, and worked out with them. He’s gone to their weddings, celebrated their birthdays, and attended their funerals.

Not far from those running photos and gun posters hang the most telling evidence of Lepore’s connection to the community: pictures of patients he’s lost over the years. The elderly couple whose weekly appointments were often just an excuse to see their good friend. A young woman he’d known since she was a little girl who lost her battle to cancer. A middle-aged man who finally found love just before cancer took his life, too. Those experiences will change a doctor.

“Rough edges get ground down,” Lepore says. “Dealing with patients

who are desperately ill, you learn something from them. I’ve learned to be more patient and caring, and that things aren’t always as they seem to be. I listen to people more.”

That kind of experience has given him a sense for when to be gentle and when to hold people accountable. At one point, as a patient tries to feign ignorance over how traces of cocaine could have shown up in his blood tests, Lepore waves him off. “Come back next week,” he says. “And don’t give me any more of that crap about the cocaine fairies, OK?”

His history, this approach, is why a number of items in his office—artillery shells, a stuffed pheasant, some of the old handguns—are gifts from his patients. After so many years, the caring has come to work both ways.

“I don’t view payment as an impediment to care,” Lepore explains. “That’s not my interest.” He motions toward a large black-and-white photograph taken in Nepal that hangs at the end of the hall. “This guy came about 20 years ago. Was a high-end photographer and had a hernia. But he couldn’t pay for it. I did it for one of his pictures. Others have brought in lobsters, quahogs, and littlenecks. At one point I wanted to put out a sign that said, ‘If you’re not going to pay, good. Just tell me so I don’t spend $3 sending you a bill.’” He shrugs. “But my business manager thought that was a bad idea.”

In a darkened lab room, Lepore kneels on the floor in front of a big monitor. On the screen is a chest x-ray, taken this morning, that reveals a pair of broken ribs and a collapsed right lung. The patient, a local painter in his early fifties, fell off a ladder earlier in the week, and Lepore, who saw him right after the fall, is concerned that if the man hasn’t healed enough he may have to stick a temporary feeding tube in him. As he’s prone to do when deep in thought, Lepore leans forward and places his left hand on his forehead.

“OK,” he says, pointing to the lung, “it’s not as bad as when he was first in here.”

He jumps to his feet and goes to the hallway outside the waiting area, where his patient, a man with a full head of brown hair and a white beard, greets him, his body leaning heavily to the left.

“How we feeling?” Lepore says with some enthusiasm.

“Feeling good,” the man says. His wife, who is standing nearby, turns to look at him and laughs.

“Feeling good?” she asks.

“Well, I’m wearing one of those Velcro vests,” the man says. “If I take it off, I can take a full breath.”

“That vest keeps your ribs from moving,” Lepore says.

“At least I don’t seem to be searching for air,” he says.

The doctor nods his head. “I’m gonna want another x-ray on Monday to see where you’re at.”

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“How did this one look?” the man asks.

“A little better,” says Lepore. “I’m not going to have to stick anything sharp or pointy in you,” he adds with a laugh.

From there, it’s a brisk walk back to the office, where he pounds the phones to find a doctor on the mainland to correct a patient’s failed back surgery. As he does, Diana Hull comes through the door of the waiting room, which is filled with voices.

“It’s like Old Home Day back there,” she says. “Summer’s over and we have the island to ourselves again. Everybody is catching up.”

Lepore soon puts the physician search on hold to tend to another patient, who’s staving off a pair of knee replacements through steroid injec -

tions she receives every few months. The woman, who wears a pink blouse and has thick round glasses and long red hair, is already sitting on the examining table when Lepore walks into the room. “You’re keeping my knees alive,” she says with a chuckle. Like many Nantucket residents, Lepore’s patient does a lot of different things to pay the bills. She’s a cleaner and a cabdriver, and she manages the local VFW. She was up at 3 this morning to clean the island’s basket museum.

“What’s that place like?” asks Lepore, gently inserting the Novocain needle into her right knee. “A lot of baskets?” he teases.

The woman clenches her face.

“You need my hand?” asks Hull.

She winces again. “I’m OK. Besides, I might squeeze it too hard.”

Lepore runs three to four times a week, almost always in the wilderness of Nantucket’s moors. He ran a 50-mile course here to celebrate turning 50, but now that he’s 72, he says, “I’ve had to change the rules.”

Lepore looks up. “It’s perfectly OK to hurt the nurses,” he deadpans.

There’s a little more uncertainty with his next patient, a woman in her early fifties who has an infected right index finger and a fever. She had Lyme disease six years ago and is worried that it’s come back. “It’s the worst case of the flu you could imagine,” she says.

Lepore puts his fingers to his mouth and draws in a deep breath. “That’s not what’s making you sick.”

“Well, something is.”

“I know, and we’re going to find it,” he says calmly as he cradles her finger, which has a hard, red bump on its tip. He then asks Hull to look at the results of the blood test he ordered during the woman’s visit to the ER yesterday.

“I had a dog bite about 20 years ago, and I felt something similar,” the

| 103 MAY | JUNE 2017

woman says. Then, as a quick aside, she mentions that her brother breeds hunting dogs. Lepore, who owns four canines himself, smiles.

“You know, all hunting dogs derive from falconry,” he says. “I have a redtailed hawk but she hates dogs. You might know Tommy Mahoney in ’Sconset? He’s got a beagle and a red tail.” And off Lepore goes. There’s an easiness to the doctor’s conversation, and it settles in over his patient.

From there he sits down with an elderly Filipino woman who has stage-4 lung cancer. And it goes like this for the remainder of the day. Lepore doesn’t have his own office. He just roams, grabbing a seat when he can on a stool at the nurses’ station, where he fields questions from his staff or sorts through a box of old medical equipment he wouldn’t allow the hospital to throw out. Throughout the workday the only thing he consumes is a mug of black coffee and a small bowl of potato soup.

At a little before 3, he’s informed that his friend Paul Thompson, a cardiologist at Hartford Hospital who’s in town to give a talk tonight, has arrived and needs a lift from the ferry.

“I’ll do it,” says Lepore.

“No, you won’t,” says his 30-year-old business manager, Libby Maynes. “You need to stay here. We’ll figure it out.”

Lepore shrugs. “Let me just run down.”

“You’re already behind on your patients,” she says, taking a seat in an office chair in front of her boss.

“I’m almost done.”

“No,” says Maynes, sharply. “You’re not almost done. You don’t have time for this.” She sticks her right leg out to block him from going to the door.

“I know,” says Lepore in a soft voice. “But he’s my buddy.”

He nudges her shin and looks at her. “Come on,” he says. “I have to do this.”

Maynes shakes her head. “Fine,” she says, pushing herself out of the way.

Lepore bounds out the door.

“Drive really fast,” she shouts after him. “Hurry!”

As the doctor passes by his plastic toys, the frog lets out a deep croak. Lepore laughs.

If he wanted to, Lepore could work any hour of the day. After so many years on Nantucket he has little anonymity. There are no “quick” trips to the hardware store or the market. There’s always a rash to look at, a prescription to call in. It’s why Lepore prefers to go running in the woods rather than in town. Even dinners out with Cathy are hard. At an expensive restaurant last year, the doctor was interrupted in the middle of his meal by the chef, who discreetly asked if Lepore could look at his hemorrhoids.

Lepore smiled. “Let’s take a look.” While Cathy quietly steamed, he examined his patient in the kitchen.

“He literally can’t go anywhere,” says Hull. “We were at a funeral and a patient of his leans over and says, ‘I know this isn’t an appropriate place

the same doctor who left Providence all those years ago because he feared doing the same thing every day. He relishes being pushed to learn what he doesn’t know, to find answers to difficult questions.

Five years ago, Lepore saw how the island’s resources were desperately failing the community’s growing issues with drug and alcohol addiction. He eventually became a licensed prescriber of Suboxone, which inhibits the effects of opioid medication, and now focuses his Fridays exclusively on those trying to get sober. But that work can go only so far, and in the past year he’s started a small nonprofit to launch a full-time treatment and therapy center.

“If I allow myself to get cynical, I can look at somebody and let myself think, He’s just a drug user,” Lepore says. “But

to ask you about this, but I have a few questions about Lyme disease.’ A funeral! Can you imagine?”

But Lepore isn’t working in just a small community; he’s working on an island, where weather sometimes determines when a patient can receive treatment. Nantucket Cottage Hospital isn’t resource-heavy Massachusetts General, with teams of residents and nurse practitioners. When the ferry or the planes can’t go, neither can patients, no matter the emergency. During a big storm several winters ago, Lepore phoned his cardiologist friend Paul Thompson to be walked through how to implant a pacemaker.

“We can do anything for 12 hours,” says Lepore. “After that, we run out of staff, we run out of everything. But on those dark and stormy nights when the Coast Guard isn’t available and MedFlight isn’t flying, we can do anything.”

You get the sense, however, that the challenges that come with an island practice fuel Lepore. He’s still

then you stop and think, and you realize that 15 years ago he was a kid who went to our school. Maybe he played football. He’s got parents, maybe a kid of his own. So that makes me want to do everything I can.”

It’s just past 4:30 and Lepore is gearing up to go. He wants to head home for a stretch with Thompson, grab a bite to eat, then listen to his friend’s talk this evening. As he’s about to leave, though, he notices something.

“Wait, wait, wait—I almost forgot.” He opens the back door and begins hauling in his collection—the flamingos, the penguin, the goose. He stands them on the floor near a desk except for the goose, which he holds up for a few long seconds to admire. He smiles and gives it a look of approval, as if he’s seeing it for the first time. He then places it on the desk by the window.

“I want them looking out, so they can see what’s going on outside,” he says.

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LEPORE IS WORKING ON AN ISLAND. WHEN THE FERRY OR THE PLANES CAN’T GO, NEITHER CAN PATIENTS, NO MATTER THE EMERGENCY.

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• Eight-month occupancy (May 1-Dec. 31)

• Five spacious cottage designs, ranging from 866 to 1350 square feet

• A pool, ﬁre pits, and a 6,000 square foot community center and clubhouse with a ﬁtness center

• Introductory prices starting at $225,000

(207) 467-7000 Enjoy the beauty of the southern Maine coast in your own Cape Arundel Cottage. CapeArundelCottages.com 1976 Portland Road, Arundel, ME 04046 (207) 467-7000 The fun starts here! | 109 MAY | JUNE 2017

Summer of Art & Science

SAIL MAINE

and afternoon treats. 135 Spring St., Portland. 207-774-1059; innatparkspring.com

COUNTRY INN THE WATERFORD INNE

Slip away to this meticulously maintained 19th-century farmhouse on 25 rural acres amid the fields and forests of the western Maine foothills. Of course there’s a farm pond, as well as a big red barn, a screened porch, and a gathering room with hand-hewn beams, pine floors, and a fireplace. The comfy themed guest rooms are configured to suit everyone from weekending lovebirds to vacationing families. Do make reservations for the optional four-course dinner. 258 Chadbourne Road, Waterford. 207-583-4037; waterfordinne.com

DESTINATION STAY COLONY HOTEL

Designed by renowned Maine architect John Calvin Stevens and opened in 1914, this sprawling, dog-friendly Kennebunkport landmark exudes a delightfully old-fashioned ambiance. Although the Colony lies a mere 4 miles from Dock Square, the dreamy ocean views and onsite facilities—two restaurants, a beach, a heated saltwater pool, an 18-hole putting green—make it hard to leave. 140 Ocean Ave., Kennebunkport. 207-967-3331; colonymaine.com

FAMILY LODGING SEBASCO HARBOR RESORT

This 550-acre oceanfront resort on the Phippsburg Peninsula has long been a favorite of families, who come for the blend of contemporary amenities with old-timey flavor, eye-candy scenery, twice-weekly children’s programs, and weekly special events ranging from bingo to lobster bakes. The icing on the cake is the array of recreational facilities—oceanfront saltwater pool, tennis courts, nine-hole championship golf course, three-hole regulation course—plus boat tours, sailing trips, kayaking and mountain biking excursions, candlepin bowling, and a spa. 29 Kenyon Road, Sebasco Estates, Phippsburg. 207389-1161; sebasco.com

HISTORIC INN

CAPTAIN LORD MANSION

Built as a residence in 1814 by Captain Nathaniel Lord, this Kennebunkport inn retains the elegance and grandeur of seafaring’s heyday while making room for thoughtful updates: gas fireplaces, marble and tile bathrooms with heated floors, a wine cellar, and an in-house spa. 6 Pleasant St., Kennebunkport. 207-9673141; captainlord.com

INN FOR FOODIES

HARTSTONE INN

Chef Michael Salmon, a Culinary Institute of America graduate who’s cooked at the famed James Beard House, and his wife, Mary Jo, are the hands-on owners of this carefully maintained mansard-roofed Victorian on the edge of Camden’s downtown. Salmon not only prepares

elegant dinners—choose from à la carte dishes or the chef’s tasting menu, all drawn from local, seasonal fare—but also offers private or group cooking classes. 41 Elm St. (Rte. 1), Camden. 207-236-4259; hartstoneinn.com

ISLAND INN

THE ISLAND INN

It’s hard to imagine a dreamier place in which to forget the world exists than the Island Inn. Commanding a bluff overlooking Monhegan Harbor and Manana Island, the three-story, cupola-topped inn is filled with simply decorated rooms (with private or shared baths) outfitted with painted wooden floors, antique oak furnishings, and crisp white linens. Suites are also available in the charming Pierce Cottage next door. Public rooms range from a cozy library to a covered sitting porch, and the inn’s restaurant serves all meals. 1 Ocean Ave., Monhegan. 207-596-0371; islandinnmonhegan.com

LEARNING ESCAPE

HAYSTACK MOUNTAIN SCHOOL OF CRAFTS

Artisans of all skill levels, from neophytes to professionals, can take part in Haystack’s one- and two-week summer workshops. The Deer Isle campus, set on a forested hillside, offers accommodations with private or shared baths, studios, a bookstore, and a cafeteria. Internationally known artists teach classes in ceramics, fiber, glass, metal, paper, blacksmithing, wood, and more, and participants can work in the studios around the clock (a handy perk for that 2 a.m. burst of inspiration). 89 Haystack School Dr., Deer Isle. 207-3482306; haystack-mtn.org

LUXURY GETAWAY

THE SCHOONER LADONA

After joining the Maine windjammer fleet last season, the masterfully restored 82-foot racing schooner Ladona quickly earned a rep for its upscale amenities: hot and cold running water in every cabin, beds topped with premium linens, rain showers, chef-prepared meals, and complimentary wine served with dinner. Cruises run from three days up to a week, with charter service also available. Budding oenophiles are advised to save up for the six-day wine cruise, with each night featuring expert tastings of eight wines focused on different countries. Windjammer Wharf, Captain Richard Spear Drive, Rockland. 207-594-4723; schoonerladona.com

DINING

ALFRESCO DINING

THE WELL AT JORDAN’S FARM

Culinary Institute of America graduate Jason Williams is the whiz behind the Well, a mobile kitchen on the 122-acre third-generation Jordan family farm, now part of the Cape Elizabeth Land Trust. Williams makes nearly

110 | NEWENGLAND.COM MAINE Great ships. Great food. Great fun.

3- to 6-day adventures Depart from Camden & Rockland 1-800-807-WIND www.sailmainecoast.com Ask us about our specialty cruises, too!

wellsreserve.org/art Sculpture Exhibition & Sale Concerts | Walks | Talks

LARGEST SELECTION OF Maine Tourmaline AND SO MUCH MORE! 13 Middle Street , Freeport, Maine 207.865.1818 | rdallen.com Featuring Maine Artists and Designers Shop • Play • Dine • Stay Enjoy Outlet Savings & Catch a Movie at Nordica Theatre! onefreeportvillagestation.com for store hours & coupons. Parking is free in our covered 500-car garage. The Look For Less Clothing • Jewelry • Accessories NewItemsArrivingDaily! www.consignfreeport.com 27 Bow Street Freeport, Maine A classic country inn with two of New England’s most acclaimed restaurants — Broad Arrow Tavern and Maine Harvest Restaurant • Voted Top Hotel in Maine, third in New England by Conde Naste Readers’ poll, 2016 • Award-Winning Lobster Sunday Brunch! A Family-owned Green Hotel Supporting Local Farmers and Growers 162 Main Street, Freeport, Maine 1.800.342.6423 • www.harraseeketinn.com Offering freshest and highest quality Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinegars Come in and taste for yourself! OPEN YEAR ROUND www.FIOREoliveoils.com WE SHIP! Maine’s 2013 Woman-Owned Business of the Year www.facebook.com /FIOREoliveoils /FIOREoliveoils 8 Rodick Place • Bar Harbor, ME 503 Main Street • Rockland, ME 88 Main Street • Freeport, ME 90 Maine Street • Brunswick, ME At the Vault • Lewiston, ME At Tiller & Rye • Brewer, ME

Our

Be gin a tradition in the heart

everything from scratch, sourcing many of the ingredients for the daily-changing menu from the farm’s bounty. Dine on picnic tables, in gazebos, or at the small kitchen counter. 21 Wells Road, Cape Elizabeth. 207-831-9350; jordansfarm.wix.com/thewell

BAKERY

THE RED BARN BAKING CO.

Three days a week from spring to autumn, baker extraordinaire Kate Capra fills the glass cases in Lincolnville’s Red Barn Marketplace (which doubles as an antiques and collectibles store) with freshly baked breads, tarts, pies, strudels, cakes, cookies, brownies, and hand pies. Don’t miss the decadent cherries-and-cream brioches, the buttery yet light and flaky croissants, or, truly, anything. 2060 Atlantic Hwy. (Rte. 1), Lincolnville. 207230-1272; theredbarnmarketplace.com

BAR FOOD

PARRILLA

Watch the chef prepare meats and veggies on an Argentinian-style wood-fired grill as the bartender concocts you a memorable mojito at Parrilla, the casual open-air, streetside bar of Bar Harbor restaurant Havana. Cobble together a Maine-accented, Latin-inspired tapas meal of charcuterie or cheese plates, Mexican corn on the cob, seafood salad, or the chef’s-choice mixed grill. Still hungry? There are entrée-sized offerings, too, as well as a menu of sweet treats such as coconut flan. 318 Main St., Bar Harbor. 207-288-2822, havanamaine.com

BREAKFAST CAFÉ THIS WAY

A bit quirky (yes, that’s a garage door opening onto the patio) and charmingly eclectic (artsy tabletops laminated with images of everything from Charlie’s Angels to Moxie), this Bar Harbor café ticks all the breakfast boxes: organic and vegan options, a slew of Benedicts and omelets, and pancakes and French toast with real maple syrup. We recommend planning a good hike after downing the Café Monte Cristo, a French toast sandwich loaded with fried egg, ham, and cheddar cheese served with home fries. 14½ Mount Desert St., Bar Harbor. 207-288-4483; cafethisway.com

BURGERS NOSH

No one here would bat an eye if you just opted for a basic cheeseburger (albeit fancied up on a brioche bun). But since this Portland hot spot excels at piling it on creatively, why not get in on the adventure? Beginning with beef from grass-fed, grain-finished cows, Nosh serves up more than half a dozen memorable specialty burgers, including the comainducing Apocalypse Now: one to four patties laden with American cheese, crisp pork belly, smoked bacon, and foie gras pâté and topped with cherry jam. 551 Congress St., Portland. 207-553-2227; noshkitchenbar.com

New Harbor, Maine 04554 At the harbor entrance 207-677-3727 www.gosnold.com

of Ogunquit . Experience the heart of Ogunquit at your door every season of the year—lobsters and lighthouses, sandy beaches and sunsets, world class dining and relaxation. Let us help you begin a Maine tradition today. Ogunquit, Maine I 800-633-8718 I reservations at: meadowmere.com Ogunquit, Maine I I 800-633-8718 reservations at: meadowmere.com 112 | NEWENGLAND.COM

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CLAM SHACK

THE CLAM SHACK

This takeout perched on the Kennebunk River tops a lot of lists for Maine’s best lobster roll, but it also earns raves for its fried clams, haddock, scallops, shrimp, and calamari, as well as its clam cakes, steamers, clam-rich chowder, and boiled lobster dinners. 2 Western Ave., Kennebunk. 207-9673321; theclamshack.net

COFFEE SHOP

COFFEE BY DESIGN

Coffee by Design distinguishes itself most obviously with its eco-minded bean selection and a microroasting process that produces superlative single-origin, peak-roast, dark-roast, blended, decaf, and flavored coffees. But it’s also a standout for its commitment to the community, as it supports local arts, sells cause-boosting coffees, and helps fund nonprofits such as Boys to Men and Portland Trails. 1 Diamond St., Portland, 207-874-5400; 620 Congress St., Portland, 207-772-5533; 67 India St., Portland, 207780-6767; 43 Washington Ave., Portland, 207-874-2234; 95 Main St., Freeport, 207865-2235; coffeebydesign.com

DINER

A1 DINER

Gleaming woodwork and chrome, a faded pink marble counter, and blue vinyl booths and stools welcome guests into this 1946 Worcester Lunch Car Company diner in Gardiner. The old-school decor, however, belies the nontraditional, internationally accented fare, made in-house and usually from local ingredients. Instead of biscuits and gravy, consider one of A1’s more exotic creations, which have included a Moroccan roasted veggie and hummus wrap and specials such as leek and bacon gratin, mixed-sausage ragu, kimchi burgers, and lamb and eggplant curry. 3 Bridge St., Gardiner. 207-582-4804

FARM-TO-TABLE DINING PRIMO

“Fresh from the farm” takes on new meaning at this Rockland gem, where ducks, pigs, guinea hens, and chickens are raised on the premises (along with fruits, vegetables, herbs, and honeybees). Even the cocktails feature farm-grown ingredients. Allow yourself time to tour the gardens and pastures before sitting down to enjoy the Mediterranean fare created by two-time James Beard Award–winner Melissa Kelly and her partner, Price Kushner. In the white-tablecloth dining rooms, the daily-changing dinner menu might include pork saltimbocca or grilled local swordfish with caldo verde ; in the casual, tapas-inspired Counter Room, look for house-made salumi, pizzas, Tuscan-style ribs, and local and imported cheeses. 2 N. Main St., Rockland. 207-596-0770; primorestaurant.com

MAINE MARITIME MUSEUM 243 Washington Street • Bath, Maine • 207-443-1316 • www MaineMaritimeMuseum org Opening June 2017 INTO THE LANTERN A LIGHTHOUSE EXPERIENCE | 113 MAY | JUNE 2017

P O R T L A N D , M A I N E . A LIMITED EDITION PRINT BY DAHLOV IPCAR (1917-2017) Odalisque, woodblock print, 15” h x 27” w, signed by the artist and numbered, 2014 In Collaboration with Maine College of Art PLEASE CONTACT advancement@meca.edu, or call Annie Wadleigh at 207-699-5015 Visit meca.edu/ipcar for more information. 145 Fore Street ~ Portland, Maine 207-761-1660 www.marriott.com/pwmdt PORTLAND DOWNTOWN WATERFRONT DISCOVER PORTLAND’S ONLY ALL-SUITES WATERFRONT HOTEL Lobby Bar with Fireplace Complimentary Full Breakfast Buffet Indoor Pool & Fitness Area ~ Short Walk to the Old Port Outdoor Courtyard with Fire Pit 8 0 0 . 3 0 6 . 4 1 8 5 V I S I T P O R T L A N D . C O M

20 Milk Street, Portland, Maine - 207.774.4200 - 800.727.3436 - www.theregency.com PORTLAND’S FIRST AND FINEST HOTEL IN THE HEART OF THE HISTORIC OLD PORT Theperfectlunch/dinnerspotonthewater. Inthe“OldPort”atLongWharf 180CommercialStreet,Portland,Maine w ww.portlandlobstercompany.com 207-775-2112

IntheheartofPortland’shistoricwaterfrontdistrict VotedPortland’sBestSeafood &LobsterRoll Wine-LocalBeers-LiveMusic OpenEveryday-EatInorTakeOut ThePortlandPhoenix JoinUsOnTheDock&GetCrackin’ SOUTHERN MAINE’S CASINO 24 / 7 CASINO ACTION The fun never stops at Oxford Casino! Over 850 state-of-the-art slot machines, 28 heart-pounding table games and delicious food, only minutes from Portland. Persons under 21 years of age may not enter the restaurant or casino unless licensed as employees Gambling problem? In Maine, call 2-1-1 or (800) 522-4700 for help FIND US ON OxfordCasino.com fordCasino com Southern Maine’s Casino! Portland Lewiston/ Auburn 95 95 295 196 11 26 Gray EXIT 63 26 Oxford Casino is southern Maine’s home for wicked good fun! V I S I T P O R T L A N D . C O M 8 0 0 . 3 0 6 . 4 1 8 5 P O R T L A N D , M A I N E .

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MAINE

FINE DINING CANTERBURY ROYALE

To experience one of Maine’s fanciest French restaurants, trek to Fort Fairfield. There, Canterbury Royale immerses guests in an intimate and elegant setting, with fine china, crystal, and silver adorning tables and elaborate wood carvings accenting the dining rooms. Guests order entrées for their five-course candlelit meal in advance, choosing from 20-plus possibilities, including pheasant under glass and lobster thermidor. 182 Sam Everett Road, Fort Fairfield. 207-472-4910; canterburyroyale.com

ITALIAN CUISINE PICCOLO

Step out of Portland and into the Italian countryside at Piccolo, a pocket eatery on the edge of the Old Port, where chef Damian Sansonetti draws on the food of his childhood. The small, ever-changing menu emphasizes the rustic cuisine of the Calabria and Abruzzi regions with entrées—such as the signature house-made cavatelli pasta with lamb’s-neck ragu—created from a conscientious mix of ingredients sourced from Italy and Maine. 111 Middle St., Portland. 207-747-5307; piccolomaine.com

PIZZA

OWEN’S FARMHOUSE

Owen’s has built a reputation for deliciousness in Kennebunk and beyond with its hand-tossed pizzas—always made with fresh dough—topped with seasonal ingredients from local farms and baked in a wood-fired oven. Choose from pies that range from basic to intriguing, such as the Kelly Orchard, made with apples, squash, Gorgonzola, and caramelized onions. 17 Main St., Kennebunk. 207985-0870; owensfarmhouse.com

SANDWICHES

ROLLING FATTIES

Whether you catch Rolling Fatties at its 1974 Airstream Argosy, which meanders about the Kingfield region in summer, or at the downtown farmhouse where it lives in the winter, the menu’s the same: big, fat handmade tortillas stuffed with primarily natural or organic Maine-sourced ingredients. Options include grass-fed beef, naturally raised pork and chicken, seasonal veggies, and local bacon. 268 Main St., Kingfield, and area. 207-3999246; rollingfatties.com

SUSHI MIYAKE

James Beard Award–nominated chef Masa Miyake takes Japanese cuisine to a new level, using ultrafresh ingredients (some sourced from his own farm) and employing Japanese, Italian, and French techniques. While you can’t go wrong ordering from the à la carte options, you should splurge at least once on the omakase, or chef’s tasting menu, for a dining adventure. 468 Fore St., Portland. 207-8719170; miyakerestaurants.com

116 | NEWENGLAND.COM

Summer Events Fourth of July Celebration • Bastille Day Celebration • Plein Air Festival • Castine Classic Yacht Race • Fort George Fortiﬁcation VisitCastine.com Castine Merchants Association/ Castine Promotions Committee • visitcastine.com Manor Inn • manor-inn.com Pentagoet Inn • pentagoet.com Saltmeadow Properties • saltmeadowproperties.com CASTINE MAINE Under The Elms And By The Sea Lisa Burton Photo | 117 MAY | JUNE 2017 Island Retreat” Same Family Ownership Since 1900 • Jackman, Maine Attean Lake Lodge Fifteen Lakefront Cottages Totally Undeveloped Mountain Lake Boating • Sailing • Kayaking • Canoeing • Hiking Wildlife & Bird Watching • Full American Plan 207-668-3792 www.atteanlodge.com

LAUNCH! Let the Chamber help you plan your visit! www.gokennebunks.com (207) 967-0857 THE CHAMBER KENNEBUNK KENNEBUNKPORT ARUNDEL June 14-18, 2017 207-467-7000 capearundelcottages.com 1976 Portland Road, Arundel, ME 04046 ‘Castaway Cove’ for Kids Old-Fashioned Lobster Bake Captain’s Cook-Off competition Sailors & Sirens 5K Costumed Interpreters Historical Talks & Tours LUNCH •Fine Dining •Events (207) 967-2299 onthemarsh.com Where traditions begin NONANTUMRESORT.COM 888.205.0726 Proud LAUNCH! participant Bringing to life this vibrant part of the towns’ maritime cultures and culinary scene, LAUNCH! will highlight our love of the sea through various anchor events and activities over ﬁve days. It will be an “all hands on deck” event, with area hotels featuring nautically-themed packages, restaurants preparing their ﬁnest seafood delights, and local shops and boutiques showcasing unique and creative crafts and gifts. A Top 10 Maine Summer Event ! — Yankee magazine

www.kennebunkportresortcollection.com Book a room at The Cottages at Cabot Cove, The Lodge on the Cove, or Cape Arundel Inn & Resort and receive VIP treatment and a swag bag by using promo code YANKEE. Call (800)573-7186 or book online. Offer expires August 31, 2017. www.sandypinescamping.com One mile to beach | Saltwater pool SNACK BAR | PLENTIFUL Activities Farm stand | Beautifully Wooded Kennebunkport MAINE Campground launchfestme.com A Maritime Festival celebrating the Kennebunks’ seafaring heritage Veterans’ ‘Fishing for Freedom’ Siren’s Soiree Themed Dinners River Lights Boat Parade “Rock the Boat” after-party Blessing of the Fleet CaptainJefferdsInn.com

NEW HAMPSHIRE

ATTRACTIONS

ART GARDEN

SAINT-GAUDENS NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE

Art and nature find a magnificent harmony at sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens’s former country estate, Aspet. More than 100 of his works are gathered here—including a version of the Shaw Memorial , his tribute to the 54th Massachusetts Volunteer Infantry Regiment—and many are scattered throughout the gardens. Tour the house and studio, drink in the views of Mount Ascutney, and wander the painterly landscape. Aspiring artists can take classes from a sculptor in residence, and all park visitors are invited to the concerts held on Sundays afternoons during the summer months. 139 Saint-Gaudens Road, Cornish. 603-675-2175; nps.gov/saga

ARTISAN JEWELRY

THE KALLED GALLERY

Walls glow with incandescent paintings and blown-glass vases rise up from pedestals like flames at the namesake gallery of Wolfeboro native Jennifer Kalled. Approximately 200 artisans and a range of media are represented here, but the jewelry is the real showstopper—including Kalled’s own bold creations, which incorporate otherworldly stones such as lace agate and boulder opals. 33 N. Main St., Wolfeboro. 603569-3994; kalledjewelrystudio.com

BOOKSTORE

GIBSON’S BOOKSTORE

An independent establishment since 1898, Gibson’s does everything right—from its thoughtful staff picks to its roster of 100-plus author events each year—in a space that practically demands that you claim a nook with a stuffed chair, while its displays pull you in like a friend with an armload of books. In 2013, Gibson’s relocated to a bigger space, becoming northern New England’s largest indie bookstore; its 10,000 square feet encompass the local toy store that it bought and folded into its layout, as well as a True Brew Café outlet. 45 S. Main St., Concord. 603-224-0562; gibsonsbookstore.com

CHILDREN’S MUSEUM

CHILDREN’S MUSEUM OF NEW HAMPSHIRE

It’s not the quietest museum (“No screaming,” one dad reminds his 4-year-old in the popular creative-play space called the Thinkering Lab), but it’s surely a successful one. Situated in one of the state’s fastest-growing cities, the Children’s Museum of New Hampshire keeps kids entertained for hours with two floors of interactive exhibits. Who wouldn’t want to steer a submarine? Create music by touching a giant interactive sound sculpture? Laughter and curiosity are given free rein among experiments in progress and future inventors at work. 6 Washington St., Dover. 603-742-2002; childrens-museum.org

FARM VISIT

MUSTER FIELD FARM MUSEUM

Graced by broad fields dotted with weathered farm buildings, flower patches, and the pristine 1787 Matthew Harvey Homestead, this nonprofit treasure inspires visitors with artistic inclinations; meanwhile, cooks can’t help but be transported by the seasonal bounty of this working farm. The Harvey homestead is also part historic preservation, surrounded by 250 acres of woods and fields (not to mention one of the longest woodpiles we’ve ever seen—for sale). Adults will marvel at the outbuildings, from blacksmith shop to ice house to corncribs, and even an 1898 octagonal ticket booth from the Bradford Newbury Fair. Children can enjoy rope swings, treats from the farm stand, and fun seasonal events like Farm Days. Harvey Road, North Sutton. 603927-4276; musterfieldfarm.com

HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE

THE FORT AT NO. 4

Travel back in time at the Fort at No. 4, surely the least descriptive name for a fort constructed of outsize Lincoln logs and bearing the weight of almost three centuries of history. Once the northernmost fort in the Connecticut River Valley, it was built in 1744 to protect an English settlement. Three years later it was attacked by a large force of French and Indians, and its 31-man garrison fought for three days before beating them back. As today’s visitors turn off a

suburban stretch of road, the reconstructed village at the bottom of the hill immerses them in pre–Revolutionary War life, from crops to crafts, in the blink of an eye. 267 Springfield Road (Rte. 11), Charlestown. 603-826-5700; fortat4.org

LAKE CRUISE MOUNT WASHINGTON CRUISES

If you don’t own a boat, now you can pretend you have three: $175 buys an unlimited daytime season pass on the 230-foot Mount Washington , the 68-foot Doris E., and the Sophie C. mail boat, all cruising Lake Winnipesaukee, the state’s largest lake. With the option of hopping on or off at five different ports, you’re free to choose your on-the-water escape. Home port at 211 Lakeside Ave., Weirs Beach, Laconia. 603366-5531; cruisenh.com

MOVIE THEATER RED RIVER THEATRES

Celebrating its first decade this year, this awardwinning Concord nonprofit is as likely to show silent classics as it is to screen fringe offerings for audiences hungry for first-run art films. But what really makes Red River Theatres special is community support: A seven-year real-life “hey-kids-let’s-put-on-a-show” volunteer effort brought forth this three-screen state-of-the-art cinema, which also hosts workshops, Q&As with actors and directors, sing-along movies, and offbeat programs like the BYOB (Bring Your Own Baby) series. Plus, there’s top-notch refreshment at the Indie Café, which serves wine, beer, sandwiches, and local chocolates alongside popcorn and soda. 11 S. Main St., Concord. 603-224-4600; redrivertheatres.org

LODGING

BOUTIQUE HOTEL

THE HOTEL PORTSMOUTH

When boutique specialist Lark Hotels acquired the Hotel Portsmouth in 2015, it may have seemed there was little room for improvement. Ideally located a few blocks from Market

120 | NEWENGLAND.COM BEST OF NEW ENGLAND

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Square, the 1881 Queen Anne mansion had been renovated and reopened just the year before, its 32 guest rooms smartly overhauled to blend Victorian courtliness with modern crispness, and its common areas (including a cheerful sunroom decked out in witty parakeet wallpaper) made freshly inviting. Yet to all this, Lark has managed to give us further reasons to return, from its signature curated small-plates breakfasts to a staff that acts more like a whole team of concierges. 40 Court St., Portsmouth. 603-433-1200; thehotelportsmouth.com

CITY B&B

ASH

STREET INN

Located a block from Manchester’s impressive Currier Museum of Art, this 1885 bed-andbreakfast has its Victorian act in order: stained glass, exposed brick, and period flourishes. But there are hidden perks, too. “We work a lot with the museum,” says Rob Wezwick, the friendly innkeeper who runs the five-room establishment with wife Margit. When booking a stay, guests can opt for a package that includes admission to the Currier and a tour of the Zimmerman House, the only Frank Lloyd Wright house in New England that’s open to the public (seasonal availability). 118 Ash St., Manchester. 603-668-9908; ashstreetinn.com

COUNTRY HOTEL

THE WENTWORTH

Built in 1869, the Wentworth sits in the heart of Jackson Village, just a short drive from major ski resorts like Wildcat and Cranmore. Its rooms are divided among the elegant main building and a number of cottages that offer sleigh beds, hot tubs, and fireplaces. Guests can dip into the hotel’s heated outdoor pool or sign up for a relaxing spa session; golfers tee up next door at the 18-hole Wentworth Golf Club. The award-winning dining room is the icing on the cake. 1 Carter Notch Road, Jackson Village. 603-383-9700; thewentworth.com

HISTORIC B&B

THE BALLARD HOUSE INN

For the record, Newton is not the official innkeeper, but the bouncing golden retriever’s enthusiastic welcome is certainly in line with the vibe at this beautifully restored 1784 boardinghouse. While owners Brian and Lynn Krautz can’t take credit for the outstanding lake and mountain views from the back-porch swing, they get full marks for homemade country breakfasts and complimentary coffee, wine, and beer. Located minutes from Lake Winnipesaukee, the Ballard House Inn offers six rooms and two suites, and easy access to hiking trails from the backyard. 53 Parade Road, Meredith. 603-279-3434; ballardhouseinn.com

INN WITH OLD-SCHOOL CHARM

THE EXETER INN

It’s only fitting that Exeter, founded in 1638 and home to Phillips Exeter Academy (alma mater of Dan Brown and Mark Zuckerberg),

New Hampshire was made for power lines. springtime. NoToNorthernPass.com /NoToNorthernPass @NOTONP

purityspring.com 800.373.3754 | 603.367.886 122 | NEWENGLAND.COM NEW HAMPSHIRE

Discover Your Summer Tradition

should have an inn that lives up to its historical character. This stately Georgian-style inn has 43 guest rooms, three suites, an elegant restaurant, and enough Wine Spectator awards to please any sommelier. Plus, it’s only a 10minute walk from the American Independence Museum, where you can check out early drafts of the Constitution. 90 Front St., Exeter. 603772-5901; theexeterinn.com

LAKESIDE INN THE WOLFEBORO INN

A short stroll from the town center, the historic Wolfeboro Inn (c. 1812) comes with its own private beach on Lake Winnipesaukee and a replica 19th-century paddleboat, the Winnipesaukee Belle , that offers seasonal daytime cruises. The inn’s pub, Wolfe’s Tavern, serves New England comfort food alongside upscale options, and has an extensive beer list (Mug Club members must sample 100 varieties ... but just two per visit, please). Oh, and there are rooms, too—44 of them, including suites with lake views. 90 N. Main St., Wolfeboro. 603-569-3016; wolfeboroinn.com

LUXURY FAMILY LODGING HORSELEG HILL LODGE

Up to 10 guests can relax in this 4,000-squarefoot, four-bedroom retreat, located near pristine Purity Lake and King Pine Ski Area. There’s access to the amenities at neighboring Purity Spring Resort, including waterskiing, tennis, a pool, and a fitness center, plus the lodge has its own 20-foot vaulted-ceiling great room, playroom with wet bar, and nine-seat home theater with 150-inch projection screen (where better to binge-watch your current TV addiction if the rain rolls in?). 70 Horseleg Hill Road, East Madison. 818-694-2722; horseleghill.com

OCEANSIDE RESORT WENTWORTH BY THE SEA

Few sights are more impressive than New Hampshire’s remaining turn-of-the-century “grand hotels,” especially the glorious oceanside giant known as the Wentworth. Dating back to 1874, it boasts three massive mansard-roofed towers that were part of the original structure. And who wouldn’t want to have their very own Turret Suite overlooking the Atlantic? In these two-level suites, with 600 to 725 square feet (and 360-degree views from the central turret), guests can lounge like true Victorian gentlefolk. 588 Wentworth Road, New Castle. 603422-7322; wentworth.com

DINING

ASIAN CUISINE

YOU YOU JAPANESE BISTRO

Can’t decide where to begin? Here’s plan A: Start with a simple salad with the tastiest Asian dressing around; savor fresh sashimi, sushi, and maki, including the basic-but-has-it-all

August 5 - 13, 2017

Newbury, NH

Open Daily 10 am–5 pm

SHOP OUR EIGHT FINE CRAFT GALLERIES

Ctr Sandwich, Concord, Hanover, Hooksett, Littleton, Meredith, Nashua, North Conway

VISIT THE CRAFT CENTER AND GALLERY

Check out our latest exhibition and The Permanent Collection 49 S. Main St, Suite 100 • Concord, NH

Mt Sunapee Resort

Funded in part by the State of NH

VISIT WWW.NHCRAFTS.ORG FOR MORE INFORMATION

New Hampshire’s Creative Side LEAGUE OF NH CRAFTSMEN PatPalson

Discover

| 123 MAY | JUNE 2017

Allen and Brenda Caswell

LIMITLESS SUMMER

In New Hampshire, the only thing better than a good mood is great food. After a day of adventure, you’ll find limitless opportunities to surround yourself with amazing company and spectacular views at one of our many restaurants. Whether it’s a casual meal on the water or fine dining in a quiet setting, there’s something here for every appetite.

NIGHT OUT WITH FRIENDSPOR T SMOUTHVISITNH.GO V

288 MAIN ST. (RT. 101) | MARLBOROUGH, NH 603-876-5012 | WWW.PIEDRAFINA.COM 13 MAIN ST. (RT. 101) | DUBLIN, NH | 603.876.3316 108 MAIN ST | MARLBOROUGH NH | 603-876-5071 Open Year Round! www.PollysPancakeParlor.com Made from Scratch Pancakes, wa es, French toast, soups, sandwiches, quiche, ice cream, pies and more. Open at 7 a.m. I-93, Exit 38 • 672 Rte. 117 • Sugar Hill, NH 603-823-5575 Mail Order Year Round 16 Restaurants, 2 Inns, a Spa, Company Store & Performance Center NH’s Common Man Family Since 1971, Great American Fare Menus, directions and gift cards at theCman.com Stop in! Common Man Roadside at The Hooksett Welcome Centers Info at theCmanRoadside.com

26TH ANNUAL KITCHEN TOUR

Boston roll; then splurge with an entrée of chicken and shrimp pad Thai or chicken Dijon. Even simpler is plan B: Tuck into a brimming bowl of Korean comfort food, like ok dol bi bim bab, in which marinated beef plays a starring role. Or, given the loyal crowd this 20-year standby has attracted, you can always fall back on plan C: Ask what the regular sitting next to you at the bar is having. 150 Broad St., Nashua. 603-882-8337; youyoubistro.com

BAR FOOD TAVERN 27

At this 1781 farmhouse converted into a cozy bar and restaurant, the emphasis is on sourcing—especially from its own garden. Among the menu standouts are the pinchos , or small bites, presented on skewers, including one with chicken wrapped around dates stuffed with chèvre, local bacon, and almonds. Reservations are taken even for bar seats, so calling ahead is a smart move. 2075 Parade Road, Laconia. 603528-3057; tavern27.com

BREWPUB THROWBACK BREWERY

While Hank’s Pale Ale, Dippity Do American Brown, and other year-round favorites are usually on tap here, check out the half-dozen seasonals, too, like Rhubarb Wit, made with as

126 | NEWENGLAND.COM

Sat., May 13 • 10am-4pm • Portsmouth, NH TICKETS & INFO: B2W Box Ofﬁce: 28 Chestnut St., Portsmouth, NH • 603.436.2400 • TheMusicHall.org /MusicHall @MusicHall /MusicHallNH ANNUAL SPONSOR: PHOTO:

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many local products as possible. All are brewed in the same historic white barn in which you’ll find the rustic dining space, with its huge bar and lively atmosphere. Among the menu’s eclectic options are an Asian steamed bun, kale and couscous salad, and a bowl of house-made chorizo and rice with such tasty touches as avocado and poblano–goat cheese yogurt. In summer, enjoy the farm-field view from the outdoor tables, along with fritters made from squash grown in that same field. 7 Hobbs Road, North Hampton. 603-379-2317; throwbackbrewery.com

COFFEE

FLIGHT COFFEE CO. CAFÉ

Owner Claudia Barrett and her team roast their beans to bring out the most delicate flavors that can be extracted from the coffee berry (think kiwi, blackberry, and sweet red wine). At the pour-over bar, freshly ground coffee and filtered water are carefully measured for the perfect cup. Sip slowly, and enjoy pastries and breakfast sandwiches in the light-filled rustic-chic space. There’s Garrison City beer on tap, too. 478 Central Ave., Dover. 603-842-5325; flightcoffeeco.com

DINER

FOUR ACES DINER

Travel back to the ’50s in this Worcester Lunch Car Company diner with original wood booths

and chrome details. There’s enough memorabilia—from Elvis tchotchkes to midcentury ads claiming the virtues of Coke—to keep your head turning as you tuck into a hearty breakfast of cinnamon roll pancakes, savory mushroom and garlic confit omelets, or creative Benedicts with North Country Smokehouse sausage. There’s even authentic poutine. 23 Bridge St., West Lebanon. 603-298-5515; 4acesdiner.com

FARM-TO-TABLE DINING

LOCAL EATERY

Devoted to all things local, chef Kevin Halligan takes seafood, beef, and lamb from nearby providers and turns them into entrées accented with beautiful salads and interesting appetizers. His “local burger”—topped with cheddar, bacon, and a fried egg—is legendary; he also runs a bakery and a meat market in town to keep the supply chain strong. 21 Veterans Sq., Laconia. 603-527-8007; laconialocaleatery.com

FINE DINING

CABONNAY

A multimillion-dollar project with roof deck, garden walls, and art collections, Cabonnay is designed to wow. The focus on excellence is consistent, from the wine collection to the locally sourced food to the striking decor. Menu items offered may include a seared scallop with

spiced watermelon or a dry-aged rib eye with Brie and potato tortellini. Save room for dessert: The pastry chef is from a Michelin-rated French restaurant. 55 Bridge St., Manchester. 844-9463473; cabonnay.com

ICE CREAM

ANNABELLE’S NATURAL ICE CREAM

Thirty-five years after making its debut on Ceres Street, down by the waterfront in the heart of Portsmouth, this tucked-away gem is still scooping strong. Standbys like Mint Summer’s Night Dream and Peanut Butter Fantasy can be counted on to wow the taste buds, as can seasonal delicacies such as Caribbean Coconut and Pumpkin Pie. (In our opinion, however, nothing beats the punch of New Hampshire Pure Maple Walnut.) Though Annabelle’s can be found at other locations in New Hampshire and even Maine, the flagship is still our favorite. 49 Ceres St., Portsmouth. 603-436-3400; annabellesicecream.com

ITALIAN CUISINE

LOUIE’S

In Portsmouth, the state’s most restaurantrich city, you can pretty much point to a random spot on a local map and find yourself near a good meal. But it’s worth seeking out

(continues on page 138)

Tastings - Tours - Bistro - Events - Art Gallery - Music LaBelleWineryNH.com - Amherst NH NEW HAMPSHIRE

LIMIT

In New Hampshire good times and new experiences flow as freely as our many bodies of water, so you don’t have to worry about missing anything. From the warm breeze against your face to the cool water on your toes, you can soak up the sunshine and seize every opportunity. Explore the limitless possibilities where the only expectations are unforgettable memories and endless fun.

LIMITLESS SUMMER

BOATINGSUNAPEE, NHVISITNH.GO V

130 | NEWENGLAND.COM Book your stay today! BOATING SUNAPEE, NH VISITNH.GOV MORE PLAYING. LESS PACKING, LOCH LYME LODGE “Get back to the basics” 20 cabins with fireplaces Restaurant Late June – Labor Day Play, swim, boat, fish, hike, bike, and relax by the lake Open May to October • Pet-Friendly 800-423-2141 www.LochLymeLodge.com ~since 1923~ ConwayScenic.com 800-232-5251 • ( 603 ) 356-5251 Experience old-fashioned train rides, all departing from our 1874 Victorian Station in North Conway Village, NH. Choose from two Valley routes or the legendary Notch Train First Class dining on both trains Excursions from 1 to 5½ hours April 15 though December 31 All Aboard! A White Mountains Attraction www.zorvino.com • 603-887-8463 • Sandown, NH Function Facility Weddings Special Events Wine Dinners Corporate Meetings Winery Tours & Tastings Wine Gift Shop Open Daily 11 am - 5 pm cottageplace@gmail.com 603-968-7116 cottageplaceonsquam.com • Open year round • Gateway to the White Mountains • 140-ft sandy beach on Squam Lake • Cottages, our Lodge, or family apartments • Kitchens, fireplaces and outside camp fires • Getaway packages for families and couples • Great attractions and restaurants close by

Pizza • Pasta specialties

• Seafood

• Steak

• Chicken

Sage Farm Antiques

A monthly 3-day show of antique, vintage and repurposed furniture, home decor and more. Open the ﬁrst Friday of the month for 3 days, with our huge 100 dealer anniversary show in October!

For our full schedule, location and hours for each show check: www.sagefarmantiques.com (603)964-3690

5 Exeter Rd, North Hampton, NH 03862

Pizza • Pasta specialties

Vegetarian

• Vegan

• Seafood

• Gluten-free

• Steak • Chicken

Pizza • Pasta specialties • Seafood • Steak • Chicken

• Soup

• Salads

Vegetarian

• Vegan

Sandwiches • Two full bars

• Gluten-free

• Soup

• Salads

Vegetarian Vegan • Gluten-free • Soup • Salads

• Spirits

• Beer

• Wine

Pizza • Pasta specialties • Seafood • Steak • Chicken

Sandwiches Two full bars Spirits Beer Wine

Sandwiches • Two full bars • Spirits • Beer • Wine

Take-out • Delivery service 5-9 pm

Vegetarian Vegan Gluten-free Soup Salads

Sandwiches • Two full bars

Take-out • Delivery service 5-9 pm

• Spirits

• Beer

• Wine

Live Music Nightly • Karaoke every Thursday

Take-out

Open Stage every Sunday Night

Live Music Nightly • Karaoke every Thursday

• Delivery service 5-9 pm

Open Stage every Sunday Night

Live Music Nightly • Karaoke every Thursday

Open Stage every Sunday Night

Reservations are highly recommended and appreciated!

Open Stage every Sunday Night

Reservations are highly recommended and appreciated!

| 131 MAY | JUNE 2017 NH School of Falconry NH School of Falconry.com Contact: Nancy Cowan 603.464.6213 falconers@comcast.net Touch the Wild! Makes a wonderful gift. Located in the beautiful, accessible hill-country of Southern NH. Read about us in Peregrine Spring ActuallyFly a bird! An U able and n o r ettEducationalExperience A lifestyle, leisure and event resort dedicated to providing a quintessential New England experience… Christmas Farm Inn & Spa 3 Blitzen Way, Jackson, NH 03846 1-800-443-5837 info@christmasfarminn.com christmasfarminn.com

“Yourhome isyourstory, tellitwell.”

Play one of the Great North Woods’ best kept secrets! Beautiful 60-Acre 9-Hole Golf Course Open to the Public Rooms with Stay & Play Packages Lounge & Banquet Facilities ColebrookCountryClub.com 603-237-5566 Rte. 26 • Colebrook, NH C ebr k C n y Club & Hotel

MORE MEMORIES. LESS MILES,

Village Condominium

Waterville Valley, NH

D ELIGHTING

ELIGHTING IN THE

PAST

D ELIGHTING IN THE PAST

IN

THE PAST

D ELIGHTING IN THE

PAST

Follow 300+ years of history in the heart of downtown Portsmouth NH.

Two - Five bedroom, fully-equipped condominiums starting at $ 250.00 per night. All rates include daily access to the White Mt. Athletic Club, 9 holes of golf, tennis, mt. biking, boats, recreation dept. activities, and much more. Call for more information.

Follow 300+ years of history in the heart of downtown Portsmouth NH.

Architectural gems, heirloom gardens, costumed role-players and traditional crafts make sense of time and place.

Follow 300+ years of history in the heart of downtown Portsmouth NH.

1-800-532-6630 • www.villagecondo.com

Architectural gems, heirloom gardens, costumed role-players and traditional crafts make sense of time and place.

Open May through October

Strawberybanke.org

14 Hancock Street Portsmouth, NH 03801 603.433.1100

Strawberybanke.org

14 Hancock Street Portsmouth, NH 03801 603.433.1100

132 | NEWENGLAND.COM KAYAKINGANDROSCOGGIN

RIVER, ERROLVISITNH.GO

A PROFESSIONALLY MANAGED RESIDENTIAL COMMUNITY & MARINA ON SQUAM LAKE SQU AM L A NDING . C O M HOMES AND HOMESITES NOW AVAILABLE! 603.968.7711 Follow us on: Never Ends! LakesRegion.org 603-286-8008 / 1-800-60-LAKES The Largest Arcade In The World! • 600 Games for All Ages! • Bowling • Mini-Golf • Bingo • Zip-Lines • Jordan’s Ice Creamery • Tavern • Restaurant Rt 3, Weirs Beach, NH • FunspotNH.com OPEN ALL YEAR

| 133 MAY | JUNE 2017 settlersgreen.com Tax-Free North Conway—Shop more than 60 national brand outlets Destination shopping in the White Mountains COACH BANANA REPUBLIC CHICO’S LINDT CHOCOLATE Explore. Unwind. Savor. Conquer. NH Grand • 100 Free Nightly Concerts • 17 Spectacular Fireworks Wednesday Nights & Holidays • Master Sand Sculpting Competition: June 15-16-17 • Children’s Festival: Aug. 14-18 • Talent Competition: Aug. 25-26-27 • Seafood Festival: Sept. 8-9-10 Rediscover the #1 rated U.S.A. Super Star Beach! Newly updated facilities & Seashell Stage! HAMPTON BEACH, NH ★★★★★ 5 star r ating! For F R E E Travel Guide or to view our the ocean with our live Beach Cam, visit www.hamptonbeach.org National Resources Defense Council "Testing the Waters: A Guide to Water Quality at Vacation Beaches" top 100 beaches water quality & safety. Hampton Beach in top 5 beaches & top 10 resorts in USA. Kitchenettes Indoor & Outdoor Pools Saunas Free Wifi Private Balconies Many More Amenities! 800-654-6188 www.lodgeresort.com STUDIOS & ONE BEDROOM SUITES 888-784-7829 www.rivergreenresort.com In-Room Jacuzzis  Indoor Heated Pool Great Room with Fireplace & Big-Screen TV  Exercise Room  Free WiFi FAMILY SUITES WITH FULL KITCHENS Two Great Resorts in the Heart of the White Mountains!

134 | NEWENGLAND.COM MOUNTAIN BIKING BARTLETT, NH VISITNH.GOV MORE FREEDOM. LESS FUSS, NH HERITAGE MUSEUM TRAIL 16 World-Class Museums from the Mountains to the Seacoast For information go to www.nhmuseumtrail.org The New Hampshire Heritage Museum Trail Summers to cherish Chocorua Camping Village KOA Lakeside Sites . Cabins . Trails . Family Fun ChocoruaCamping.com Experience New Hampshire’s White Mountains www.hannahgrimesmarketplace.com Celebrating 20 years on Main Street in Keene. www.hannahgrimesmarketplace.com Leave the crowds behind. Nestled between mountains and lake, the beautiful, historic village of Sandwich awaits you! One of NH’s hidden treasures... discoversandwich.com call today! 866.469.8222 www.8664myvacation.com proudly managed by: Rates starting at $96/night!* *restrictions may apply  call today! 866.469.8222 www.8664myvacation.com proudly managed by: Rates starting at $96/night!* *restrictions may apply  call today! 866.469.8222 www.8664myvacation.com proudly managed by: Rates starting at $96/night!* *restrictions may apply  call today! 866.469.8222 www.8664myvacation.com proudly managed by: Rates starting at $96/night!* *restrictions may apply  Better than Broadway! Award-winning Professional Theatre for the North Country...Monday-Saturday Our 52nd Season: July 8 to Sept. 2 BOX OFFICE opens late June 603-837-9322 or visit online anytime! www.weathervanetheatre.org HAIRSPRAY • GYPSY • WEST SIDE STORY SEUSSICAL™ • THE DINING ROOM THE LAST FIVE YEARS • INHERIT THE WIND Plus weekly children’s shows Friday mornings 389 LANCASTER RD., WHITEFIELD, NH 193 Mittersill Road * Franconia, NH 03580 603-823-5511 * www.mittersillresort.com Established 1945 We are Mittersill Mittersill Alpine Resort® A four-seasons, destination resort. A great vacation spot and family get-a-way ! Area Attractions - Hiking - Biking - Great Trails - GolfZip Lines - Many Outdoor Adventures - All nearby! *Discount Golf vouchers for registered guests. Located in Scenic Franconia Notch, NH

| 135 MAY | JUNE 2017 A Visit to Wolfeboro Can Be… …Whatever You Want It To Be Waterfront Shopping, Dining and Lodging. Free Public Beaches. Boat Rentals. Golf. Art Galleries. Paddleboarding. Concerts. Fishing. Cruises. Trolley Tours. Theatre. Scuba Diving. Four Museums. Kayaking. Jet Skis. Farmers’ Market. Fairs. Sunsets. You can do everything… ...or nothing at all. See “101 Things To Do in Wolfeboro” at wolfeborochamber.com 603-569-2200 Sponsored by wolfeboronh.us Wolfeboro Economic Development Committee “Work and Live Where You Love to Play”

AYERS LAKE FARM CAMPGROUND & COTTAGES Southeastern NH’s Family Campground Camping as it should be! Quality lakeside family vacations nestled between the mountains & the seacoast. Reserve now! Call 866-335-1110 www.ayerslakecampground.com 497 Washington Street • Barrington, NH 03825 Your destination for thousands of bolts of fabric and yarns from all over the world! & Visit us at 12 Main St. Center Harbor, NH (Just off Route 25 at Senters Market) Keepsake Quilting (603) 253-4026 • Patternworks (603) 253-9064 Walpole Mountain View Winery www.bhvineyard.com • WALPOLE • Poocham Hill Winery www.poochamwinery.com • WESTMORELAND • Wine Tastings! JacksonNH.com Duck Races May 28th 603-383-9356

Bob

Ness Images

The Wright Museum of World War II

Wolfeboro,

NH

Since 1994, educating visitors about the WWII-era Americans called, “the greatest generation”. See extensive 1939-45 Home Front displays; vintage tanks & weapons; period art & music and more.

Please join us for these 2017 Special Exhibits: “Saturday Evening Post Covers 1941-46: Mead Schae er, Norman Rockwell & Friends” May 1-June 24. “The American Soldier, from the Civil War to the War in Iraq–A Photographic Tribute” July 1-October 31

Open May 1 – Oct 31 • Mon.-Sat. 10-4 • Sun. 12-4 Visit us at www.wrightmuseum.org to view complete offerings • 603-569-1212

136 | NEWENGLAND.COM

HIKING

LESS WAITING, call today! 866.469.8222 Condo Resorts Coast to Coast V  L M Rates starting at $82/night!* *restrictions may apply  myvacation.com www.8664myvacation.com call today! 866.469.8222 Condo Resorts Coast to Coast V  L M Rates starting at $82/night!* *restrictions may apply  www.8664myvacation.com www.8664myvacation.com call today! 866.469.8222 Condo Resorts Coast to Coast V  L M Rates starting at $82/night!* *restrictions may apply  www.8664myvacation.com www.8664myvacation.com call today! 866.469.8222 Condo Resorts Coast to Coast V  L M Rates starting at $82/night!* *restrictions may apply  www.8664myvacation.com www.8664myvacation.com • 3-hr. round trip on eco-friendly biodiesel or historic steam trains. • Courier’s Favorite Scenic Railroad • Cog Railway Museum at the Base • NEW Summit Weather Exhibit OPEN MAY- NOV BOOK IN ADVANCE THECOG.COM 800.922.8825 Base Station Rd, Marshfield Station, NH (6 mi. from Rt. 302 & Bretton Woods, NH) A NATIONAL HISTORIC ENGINEERING LANDMARK THE MOUNT WASHINGTON The World’s First mountain-climbing Cog Railway and the Only One east of the Rockies! byTrain!! Ride to the Top of Mt. Washington... Marshmallows Taste better Whatever you like to do, there’s a NH campground for you! Download or order your free copy of the New Hampshire Camping Guide at www.nhlovescampers.com Make Carlson’s the hub of your White Mountains vacation Get outdoors! 603-846-5501 • 800-348-5502 www.carlsonslodge.com • Spacious smoke-free rooms or efficiencies with AC and cable TV • Extraordinary Hiking • Central to attractions • Near Cog Railway, Santa’s Village and Franconia Notch • Outdoor Pool • Preferred Golf • Continental Breakfast • Massage Therapy Rt. 302 West • Twin Mt. 2012-2016 Certificate of Excellence from Trip Advisor

FRANCONIA,

VISITNH.GOV

WANDERING.

Celebrating Kenneth’s 132nd Birthday Open to the public 11 am – 4 pm

Poore

Live Music by: Harold Boydston also Weaving, Spinning, Soap Making, Tanning Hides, and more. Audience participation is encouraged!

Sat., August 12, 2017

Poore Farm Music Festival

A Day Long Musical Event: Traditional Folk, Bluegrass to Progressive Rock & More. Fire Dancers too!

Admission to either event: $10 Donation/adult

Accompanied Children Under 12 are FREE

Regular Museum Hours: June – Sept.

Sat. & Sun. 11 am to 3 pm (or as posted)

| 137 MAY | JUNE 2017 Limit two. Cannot be combined with any other offer. Expires 11/1/17. YNK Save $3 on trail admission Bringing You Nearer to Nature www.nhnature.org | 603-968-7194 Route 113, Holderness, NH 603-878-2308 www.parkersmaplebarn.com A family establishment since the late 1960s serving hearty breakfasts and lunch. One of New Hampshire’s Top Ten Restaurants. We make our own maple syrup. Visit our sugar house & gift shop in Mason, NH, or visit our online store. PARKER’S MAPLE BARN Book Online or call: • Central to all attractions • Sightseeing • • Hiking • Biking • Swimming • Boating • • Zip-lining • Dining & more • stonybrookmotel.com 800-722-3552 Nestled just outside of the quaint Village of Franconia & Franconia Notch State Park You’re never more than 45 min. to the farthest places in the White Mountains & Lakes Region. Drive • Tour • Explore MOUNT WASHINGTON Just 20 minutes north of North Conway GUIDED ADVENTURES DRIVE YOURSELF Mt-Washington.com www.PooreFarm.org S u n d a y , J u l y 1 s t A m e r i c a n M o u n t a i n M e n R e e n a c t m e n t A t t h e : P o o r e F a r m M u s e u m Learn about the early Trappers and Traders of the area, by the Great North Woods Party. Visitors can see firsthand what life was like on the frontier and how the guns of the day work. Please join us for our 18th Annual Open Barn and Celebration Celebrating Kenneth’s 127th Birthday Sunday, July 1, 2012 Open to the public: 11 a. m. to 4 p. m. F R E E B i r t h d a y c a k e a n d l e m o n a d e w i l b e s e r v e d at The Poore Family Homestead Historic Farm Museum Route 145, Stewartstown, NH Music by: Harold Boydston, playing authentic western Cowboy tunes on guitar and mandolin, Also: Hope Manseau, will be demonstrating: rug weaving on the Poore Family loom, preparing wool and spinning on a traditional spinning wheel. Be ready to get involved, Hope will have you helping in the process and showing you how to make yarn on a drop spindle that you can make at home. Directions: 7 miles north of Colebrook, on NH Rte. 145 Regular Museum Hours, June 1st to September 30th: Saturday & Sunday 11:am to 3:pm, - - Weekdays 11:am to 1:pm Sponsored by: The Poore Family Foundation and The Tillotson North Country Foundation More info: www.PooreFarm.org 603-237-5500 American Mountain Men Living History and

Annual

& Celebration

Fri.,

23rd

Open Barn

Birthday Cake &

served

FREE

Lemonade will be

Family Homestead

miles

Historic Farm Museum Rte. 145, Stewartstown, NH • 7

north of Colebrook Sat. & Sun., July 1-2, 2017

(continued from page 127)

the excellent fare at Louie’s, thanks in part to an ambitious kitchen turning out homemade pasta and salumi, and a chef, Brett Cavanna, whose résumé includes stints at FIG in Charleston, South Carolina, and Café Boulud in Palm Beach. Cavanna’s passion for local ingredients makes the rustic-Italian conceit work—letting each flavor shine, never gilding lilies, but working in surprises (benne seeds in one dish, parsnip chips in another). 86 Pleasant St., Portsmouth. 603-294-0989; louiesportsmouth.com

MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE MEDITERRANO

Owners Ibrahim Bilgin and John Kalem, two cousins from Turkey, offer warm hospitality and authentic cuisine in a we-did-it-ourselves atmosphere. Puffy lavas bread makes an excellent base for a meze platter of tender stuffed grape leaves, hummus, smoky baba ghanoush, and a tomato salsa ripe with herbs, olive oil, and garlic. Marinated kebabs are the mainstay of the entrée menu. Finish up your meal with a pungent Turkish coffee and a sweet slice of

baklava. 24 Henniker St., Hillsborough. 603680-4319; mediterranoo.com

PIZZA

PIG TALE

Fresh local ingredients top Pig Tale’s woodfired pizzas, each kissed with a bit of char. The savory mushroom with creamy spinach and fontina melds woodland flavors, while the Sophia, inspired by chef Rob Jean’s daughter, brings together chicken, pesto, and potatoes. Pig Tale’s prowess goes beyond pies, though: The craft cocktail list is creative, and the dry-rubbed chicken wings, served in an iron skillet, are not to be missed. 449 Amherst St., Nashua. 603-864-8740; pigtalerestaurant.com

SANDWICHES

THE SUNRISE SHACK

Burgers topped with bratwurst or applewoodsmoked bacon, chopped peanuts, and chipotle fluff—the lunch specials here are the work of a mad genius. Just bear in mind that they change daily, as do the Sunrise Shack’s musthave tater tots, which are tossed with everything from barbecue sauce and blue cheese to honey and truffle oil. All of the above washes down nicely with the thoughtfully chosen beer selection. 644 White Mountain Hwy., Glen. 603-383-7169

By Matthew Lopez By Joesph Kesselring

By Nick Payne

By Mel Brooks & Thomas Meehan

DISCOVER GERMANY AUGUST 29 - SEPTEMBER 6, 2017 Join New Hampshire PBS on a captivating cultural tour through Germany exploring the country’s in uences in history, religion, music and the arts. nhptv.org Reserve your seat now! nhptv.org/travel 1-800-624-0166 138 | NEWENGLAND.COM NEW HAMPSHIRE

2017 Summer Season

summer repertory theater at its most accomplished.” The Wall Street Journal peterboroughplayers.org 55 Hadley Rd, Peterborough, NH The Whipping Man

Plays in 13 Weeks Season runs June 21 - Sept 17 “American

and Old Lace

Arsenic

Constellations

Producers

Doctor’s Dilemma By

Wittenberg

Comedy Tonight! Featuring Jane

Alexander and the Terrible, Horrible, No Good, Very Bad Day

James and the Giant Peach Dramatized by Richard R

2ND COMPANY PLAYS 1172 Easton Road Franconia, NH 03580 info@franconiainn.com 800.473.5299 franconiainn.com Casually elegant lodging & dining

Views Award-Winning Cuisine Cozy & Inviting FOUR CLAY TENNIS COURTS • HIKING HORSEBACK RIDING • GLIDER RIDES HEATED OUTDOOR POOL & JACUZZI MOUNTAIN BIKING • X-COUNTRY SKIING SLEIGH RIDES • ICE SKATING • TUBING SNOWSHOEING & MORE...

The

George Bernard Shaw

By David Davalos

Condon

By Judith Viorst

George

Breathtaking

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No matter where

VERMONT

ATTRACTIONS

ADVENTURE PARK

KILLINGTON ADVENTURE CENTER

From a tranquil chairlift ride to a 30-mph twoseater zip-line dash 100 feet above the ground, the big ski mountain serves up a variety of outdoor diversions. The 4,800-foot Beast Mountain Coaster hurtles carts on rails through corkscrew loops; the Skye Ropes Course presents a four-story obstacle challenge; and climbers can tackle a 30-foot tower—then bungee to the ground. For the less adrenalinedriven, there are guided tours by ATV or Segway, and kids can enjoy an Old West–themed sluice mining treasure hunt. Day passes or individual ride tickets are available. 4763 Killington Road, Killington. 802-422-6201; killington.com

ART MUSEUM

FLEMING MUSEUM OF ART

Refreshed by an extensive 2016 renovation, the art and anthropology museum of the University of Vermont houses the state’s most broadranging collection of painting, sculpture, decorative arts, and cultural artifacts from civilizations ranging from antiquity to the contemporary U.S. The cache of some 20,000 objects includes African masks; an Assyrian bas-relief; works by Corot, Goya, Rodin, Homer, and Warhol; and an Egyptian mummy in its coffin. The book-filled museum shop also has a pleasant café serving snacks and desserts. 61 Colchester Ave., Burlington. 802-6560750; flemingmuseum.org

BIRD-WATCHING SPOT

DEAD CREEK WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT AREA

Don’t let the name fool you: This 2,800-acre state property just east of Lake Champlain is alive with more than 200 species of birds (the fall migrations of Canada and snow geese are spectacular) in an environment of open water and cattail marsh created by a series of impoundments on a sluggish tributary of Otter Creek. A boat ramp on Route 17 is ideal for launching canoes and kayaks, and an onshore viewing area is nearby. Rte. 17 W., Addison. 802-759-2398; vtfishandwildlife.com

CHILDREN’S MUSEUM

MONTSHIRE MUSEUM OF SCIENCE

Kids (and their parents) can walk on distant planets, examine a bee colony, hibernate with

a bear, and explore more than 140 hands-on indoor and outdoor exhibits that open windows onto the worlds of nature, physical sciences, and technology. Outside, in the David Goudy Science Park, you’ll find 100 acres of trails and exhibits that focus on wind, water, and the ecology of the Connecticut River Valley. Don’t forget to pack bathing suits and towels—some of the most popular exhibits are also ones that get kids the wettest. 1 Montshire Road, Norwich. 802-649-2200; montshire.org

CRAFT GALLERY

FIDDLEHEAD AT FOUR CORNERS

While the stately marble building at Bennington’s downtown crossroads still looks like a bank, today it overflows not with cash but rather with carefully selected glassware, ceramics, jewelry, paintings, and fiber works from throughout North America. Take a break from browsing to play a few free games on a vintage pinball machine, pound out a tune on the 1936 baby grand piano, or unleash the kids’ imaginations with chalk and blackboards in the Graffiti Vault, once the bank’s walk-in safe. 338 Main St., Bennington. 802-447-1000

FARM VISIT

BILLINGS FARM AND MUSEUM

Frederick Billings’s model farm, established by the railroad magnate when he returned to his native Woodstock in 1871, still showcases champion Jersey cows, Southdown sheep, and magnificent draft horses. Visit the 1890 farm manager’s home and creamery, learn about farm work of yesteryear and today, and climb aboard for horse-drawn wagon and sleigh rides. Interactive farm programs change with the seasons. 69 Old River Road, Woodstock. 802-457-2355; billingsfarm.org

FARMERS’ MARKET

BRATTLEBORO FARMERS’ MARKET

Southern Vermont’s premier farmers’ market, located near the covered bridge on Route 9, attracts more than 50 vendors every Saturday from 9 a.m. until 2 p.m., early May through late October. There’s a huge variety of locally grown foods, handicrafts, and ethnic fare from around the world, as well as live music at lunchtime. Kids love the giant sandbox at the center of the market. The market is also held on Flat Street from 4 to 7 p.m. on Tuesdays from the end of May until late September. 570 Western Ave. (Rte. 9), Brattleboro. 802254-8885; brattleborofarmersmarket.com

FLEA MARKET

WATERBURY FLEA MARKET

Over the past half century, Waterbury’s weekly flea-for-all has grown to comprise 10 acres of antique and used furniture, household utensils, books, records, glassware, and jewelry. You’ll find everything from a vintage eggbeater to a brand-new canoe paddle to whole apple pies; meanwhile, count on low vendor fees to keep the selection both reasonable and eclectic. The market is open weekends from early May to late October, and while some vendors open up before 7 a.m., most open between 8 and 9 a.m. and pack up between 4 and 5 p.m. 2201 Bolton Road, Waterbury. waterburyfleamarket.com

GENERAL STORE WARREN STORE

Perched on a ledge above the Mad River, this deli-bakery offers an easy stopover for a breakfast burrito or a midday meal. For lunch, grab a hefty sandwich stuffed with local smoked turkey and bacon layered between slabs of house-baked bread, or warm up with the daily soup. Browse crafts and clothing by local artisans in the boutique upstairs, then head home with a bottle of wine or fresh IPA from hometown brewery Lawson’s Finest Liquids. Staying nearby? The store also offers catering to go. 284 Main St., Warren. 802-496-3864; warrenstore.com

HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE PRESIDENT CALVIN COOLIDGE STATE HISTORIC SITE

Presidential birthplaces abound, but Vermont preserves an entire presidential birth town . Tiny Plymouth Notch is where Calvin Coolidge was born, and he was visiting as vice president when word arrived of Warren G. Harding’s death in 1923. Coolidge was sworn in by his father by the light of a kerosene lamp, in a house opposite his birthplace. A visit takes in both homes, the general store once run by the elder Coolidge, and exhibits on Coolidge’s presidency. The president and his forebears rest in the village graveyard. 3780 Rte. 100A, Plymouth. 802-672-3773; historicsites.vermont.gov

MINIATURE GOLF ESSEX FAMILY FUN & ENTERTAINMENT CENTER

While there are no little windmills to navigate, these 18 holes aren’t as easy as they look, thanks to twists and turns and rolling greens you sometimes have to “read” (hole 8 can be

140 | NEWENGLAND.COM BEST OF NEW ENGLAND

VERMONT INN to INN WALKING TOUR

The “Vermont Inn-to-Inn Walking Tour” is a four-day, selfguided walk averaging 10 miles a day, mainly through old country roads of gravel and through the villages of Chester, Weston and Ludlow. The four historic inns–Inn Victoria, Old Town Farm Inn, Golden Stage Inn, and The Colonial House Inn–are linked by their owners’ shared love of Vermont and a commitment to their under-the-radar walking tour. The oldest and longest running tour of its kind in the state, Vermont Innto-Inn Walking Tour is well established and focused on guest safety and comfort.

It’s simple and efﬁcient. The innkeepers transport your bags door to door, Vermont sherpa-style; greet you at the end of the day

with refreshments and a home-cooked meal; and, in the morning, send you on your way with a hearty breakfast,snacks for the road, a map of your walking route, and best wishes for a pleasant day.

A ﬁnal feature that sets this tour apart from so many others? You’re on your own, so you can set your own pace. Walk alone or with friends; do as much or as little of the walk as you like. Basically, the tour is as idiosyncratic as the state in which you’re walking. Join us from mid-May through the end of October.

www.VermontInntoInnWalking.com 802-228-8799 or 802-875-4288

THE WALK

PART 1: (9 . 1 miles) INN VICTORIA TO OLD TOWN FARM INN

INN VICTORIA 321 Main St., Chester, VT 802-875-4288 InnVictoria.com

PART 2: (10 7 miles)

OLD TOWN FARM INN TO GOLDEN STAGE INN

OLD TOWN FARM INN 665 Route 10, Chester, VT 802-875-2346

Otfi.com

PART 3: (8 8 miles) GOLDEN STAGE INN TO THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN

GOLDEN STAGE INN 399 Depot St., Proctorsville, VT 802-226-7744 GoldenStageInn.com

PART 4: (11 2 miles) THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN TO INN VICTORIA

THE COLONIAL HOUSE INN 287 Route 100, Weston, VT 802-824-6286

CoHoInn.com

“It’s a meditative walk. Long before the village of Chester appears and I’ve come full circle, I realize that my life has become breathtakingly simple in the last few days. I walk; I look at wildﬂowers; I avoid poison ivy; I take a deep breath and listen to nature singing; I wonder what’s up ahead; I try to remember to look back from time to time. Occasionally I hum–and then try to get the song out of my head.

“And then I take another step. Am I closer or farther away? It’s my path, my walk. I get to decide.”

–Annie

Yankee

Graves,

Magazine, May/June 2012 | To read more, visit: NewEngland.com/Inn

FROM INN-TO-INN AND SEE VERMONT AT 10 MILES A DAY ADVERTORIAL

WALK

MAP ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL BYERS

especially exasperating). There’s also a driving range, plus batting cages that let you try your hand at slow-pitch and fast-pitch softball and baseball. 48 Upper Main St., Essex. 802-8728858; essexfamilyfunandentertainmentcenter.com

NATURE EXPERIENCE

VERMONT INSTITUTE OF NATURAL SCIENCE

Eagles, falcons, owls—the Vermont Institute of Natural Science gives a new lease on life to injured birds of all sorts while offering a unique window onto their world. The center’s 47-acre campus features 17 state-of-the-art raptor enclosures, and visitors can watch rehab specialists at work and see live bird programs daily. Try to plan a visit to the songbird aviary at feeding time. Bring a picnic, shop at the Nature Store, and stroll the three-quarter mile’s worth of interpretive trails. 6565 Woodstock Road (Rte. 4), Quechee. 802-359-5000; vinsweb.org

STATE PARK

SMUGGLERS’ NOTCH STATE PARK

Straddling a sharply ascending corkscrew of a road sentineled by 1,000-foot cliffs, one of Vermont’s most popular parks draws hikers, campers, and those who simply want to navigate the notch by car, narrowly squeezing through towering boulders. The Long Trail crosses the road at one point, and even those who are hikingaverse may be tempted to stroll the quarter-mile path to spectacular Bingham Falls. The steep, mile-long Sterling Pond Trail, which begins at the crest of the notch, summits at the eponymous jewel of a pond, one of the state’s highest bodies of water. 6443 Mountain Road, Stowe. 802-253-4014; vtstateparks.com

SUMMER STOCK

WESTON PLAYHOUSE

This season marks 80 years since a renovated church on a classic village green became the Weston Playhouse, now Vermont’s oldest professional theater. The church was lost to fire in 1962, but its stately Greek Revival replacement is home to talented equity companies that bring drama, comedy, and musicals to Weston with six productions each summer. Downstairs, the West Town Eatery offers dinner before the show, and cabaret after. 703 Main St., Weston. 802-824-8167; westonplayhouse.org

USED/ANTIQUARIAN BOOKSTORE

HERMIT HILL BOOKS

Every college town should have a good used bookstore, and Poultney—home of Green Mountain College—is where Homer, “the literary corgi,” and his fellow canine and feline staffers welcome browsers to a collection of more than 30,000 used, rare, and collectible volumes. Specialties include history, poetry, nature, Vermontiana, and modern first editions, shelved in the aisles and alcoves of the snug Main Street shop. Can’t find the title you’re looking for? Owner Patty McWilliams will be happy to search for it. 95 Main St., Poultney. 802-287-5757; hermithillbooks.com

LODGING

BOUTIQUE INN

506 ON THE RIVER INN

Just a few miles from the center of Woodstock, along the scenic Ottauquechee River, the area’s newest lodging combines the best features of a small resort with those of an intimate inn. At guests’ disposal are river-facing rooms and suites with balconies and rocking chairs, an antiquesfilled bistro and bar, a game area for young adults, a toddler playroom, an indoor pool and sauna, and a sweeping lawn dotted with lounge chairs, tiki lamps, and fire pits for evening s’mores. 1653 W. Woodstock Road (Rte. 4), Woodstock. 802-457-5000; ontheriverwoodstock.com

CITY HOTEL HOTEL VERMONT

This rare independent hotel in downtown Burlington offers bright, modern accommodations featuring wood and stone accents from Vermont forests and quarries. Locally sourced ingredients are the rule at Juniper restaurant; other hotel dining options include a satellite location of the James Beard Award–nominated Hen of the Wood and seafoodoriented Bleu. 41 Cherry St., Burlington. 802651-0080; hotelvt.com

FAMILY LODGING

MOUNTAIN TOP INN & RESORT

A lofty aerie among Vermont’s resorts, the Mountain Top boasts 350 scenic acres hugging the shore of the Chittenden Reservoir within the Green Mountain National Forest. Accommodations range from rooms and suites in the main lodge to spacious cabins to larger guesthouses, all furnished in traditional “great camp” style (massive fireplaces, wrought iron and roughhewn timber, big leather armchairs). Canoe, kayak, swim, or take a guided pontoon boat ride on the reservoir, or take a dip in the heated outdoor pool. Other activities include tennis, trap shooting, a full equestrian program, and a kids’ adventure camp. 195 Mountain Top Road, Chittenden. 802-483-2311; mountaintopinn.com

FARM STAY

COLD MOON FARM

Although it’s just a half hour’s drive from Manchester’s factory outlets, this family-friendly working farm with five lovely guest rooms and suites feels a world away. Guests young and old can help do farm chores, spend an afternoon fishing and canoeing on the pond, or enjoy a yoga class in the meadow. When the kids are ready for bed, the owners will arrange for babysitting services so that parents can slip away for dinner. 251 Pratt Bridge Road, Jamaica. 802297-3258; coldmoonfarm.com

GOLFING GETAWAY

LAKE MOREY RESORT

Tucked along the north shore of forest-rimmed Lake Morey in the Connecticut River Valley,

this resort has been home to the Vermont Open Golf Championship for more than 50 years. Amateurs also enjoy the challenges of the meticulously maintained 6,024-yard course, where a relatively level front gives way to a rolling back nine. Not a golfer? Choose from tennis, volleyball, an indoor pool, paddling on the lake, and a 5-mile hike or bike ride around the shore. More than half of the 130 rooms and suites offer lake views, and three cottages accommodate six to 14 guests. 1 Clubhouse Road, Fairlee. 800-4231211; lakemoreyresort.com

HISTORIC INN BRANDON INN

Overlooking Brandon’s town green on a site occupied by inns since 1786, this gambrelroofed treasure is more small hotel than country inn. The Victorian character of the airy public rooms carries throughout the 37 guest rooms and two suites on the three floors above, all with private baths. Rates include a full breakfast, and you’re in luck if your morning’s fare includes owner-chef Louis Pattis’s scrambled eggs, the creamiest you’ll ever taste. 20 Park St., Brandon. 802-247-5766; brandoninn.com

LAKESIDE LODGING WILLOUGHVALE INN & COTTAGES

Lake Willoughby is the deep blue jewel of Northeast Kingdom lakes, and Willoughvale is perched invitingly on its shores. Accommodations include 10 handsomely furnished inn rooms and suites, some with fireplace and Jacuzzi, along with four lakeside and four lakeview cottages. Guests can use the inn’s canoes, kayaks, and bikes, and the swimming beach features a water trampoline. Gil’s bar and grill (dinner only) overlooks the lake, and continental breakfast is included for guests. 793 Rte. 5A S., Westmore. 802-525-4123; willoughvale.com

ROMANTIC GETAWAY STONE HILL INN

Luxury is the hallmark of this couples-only retreat nestled on nearly 10 acres in the heart of Stowe. Each of the nine rooms has a king bed, Jacuzzi tub for two, and bedroom/bath fireplace. The spacious Mansfield Suite, with a kitchen and an outdoor porch, is perfect for longer stays. Couples are seated at private tables in the sunlit breakfast room, and can enjoy a stroll around the manicured grounds before settling in for massages in the comfort of their own guest rooms. 89 Houston Farm Road, Stowe. 802-253-6282; stonehillinn.com

RUSTIC RETREAT STERLING RIDGE RESORT

Situated on 370 acres above scenic Smugglers Notch, the resort’s 23 cabins and three larger units seamlessly blend rustic style with full modern amenities. Choose from studio, one-, and two-bedroom cabins, or stay in the luxe log home with soaring two-story stone fireplace that was featured in Field & Stream magazine. Guests can hike the resort’s private trails, fish

142 | NEWENGLAND.COM VERMONT

Lang House on Main Street combines 19th-century charm with 21st-century service. A beautifully appointed Queen Anne Victorian inn and carriage house, the property features historic elegance while maintaining environmentally conscientious practices. In fact, it’s a designated Green Hotel in the state of Vermont! You’ll find the staff warm, knowledgeable, and willing to help; and their inventive, locally sourced breakfast is a great start to your day. Lang House is conveniently located within walking distance of Church Street Marketplace, Lake Champlain Waterfront Park, and the University of Vermont campus. 802-652-2500; langhouse.com

Church Street Marketplace pulses at the heart of the downtown. Extending four blocks, the pedestrian open-air mall offers year-round festivals, street entertainers, music, and plenty of historic architecture— plus more than 100 restaurants and shops. With a host of establishments featuring sidewalk seating, the atmosphere is social and lively—a perfect locale for people-watching. And, on summer Saturdays include a visit to nearby City Hall Park, the site of a bustling farmers’ market. 802-863-1648; churchstmarketplace.com

Nestled in Burlington’s Historic Hill District is the family-owned-and-operated Willard Street Inn. This stunning property offers casually elegant accommodations while highlighting the craftsmanship of an 1881 Victorian mansion. Enjoy their chef-plated breakfast before taking a short walk to Church Street Marketplace, Lake Champlain Waterfront Park, Champlain College, or the University of Vermont. The inn’s tagline rings true, “Service of Yesteryear with the Amenities of Today.” Rates include off-street parking, WiFi, private baths, locally roasted coffee, and fresh-baked cookies delivered to your room, making the Willard Street Inn a great home base during your stay in Vermont. 802-651-8710; willardstreetinn.com

PACK YOUR BAGS

Delve into the ecological, cultural, and historical importance of Lake Champlain at ECHO Lake Aquarium and Science Center, and you’ll soon realize the lake is much more than just a striking backdrop for the city of Burlington. It’s also home to an amazing ecosystem that includes one of the world’s oldest coral reefs and a multitude of fish and plants. See a riveting film in ECHO’s state-of-the-art theater, check out a shipwreck exhibit and live species exhibits, and explore the mystery of legendary lake monster “Champ.” 877-324-6386; echovermont.org

When You Go: Choose a drink and an appetizer from the bistro menu at as you watch the sun set over Lake Champlain at Splash at the Boathouse, the city’s only fl oating waterfront restaurant, made all the more special by the fact that its season is limited—stop by May-October. 802-658-2244; splashattheboathouse.com

• BURLINGTON SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

in the 14-acre pond, swim in the heated pool, ascend Mount Mansfield via the nearby Long Trail, or follow the twisting Notch Road to the attractions at the Smugglers’ Notch and Stowe resorts. 155 Sterling Ridge Dr., Jeffersonville. 802-644-8265; sterlingridgeresort.com

UPSCALE INN

WOODSTOCK INN & RESORT

Crossing the threshold at Woodstock’s best address is like stepping into a sumptuous country home. Many guest rooms feature wood-burning fireplaces; all are distinctively furnished. Local ingredients enrich the menus at the Red Rooster, the inn’s light-filled main dining room, and at the snug, wood-paneled Richardson’s Tavern. The resort offers golf, ski, and spa packages, plus activities ranging from fly-fishing to falconry. Woodstock’s shops, restaurants, and town green are at the inn’s doorstep. 14 The Green, Woodstock. 802-332-6853; woodstockinn.com

DINING

BREWPUB PROHIBITION PIG

This Waterbury storefront had gained a loyal following as the Alchemist brewpub and the

original home of Vermont’s iconic canned IPA, Heady Topper. After Tropical Storm Irene flooded that pub in 2011, though, new owners moved in. Now locals line up nightly for smoke-kissed pork and brisket, grownup cocktails, and one of New England’s most impressive tap lists. Around the corner, a seven-barrel brewery ferments handcrafted brews to complement snacks like tacos and pozole, which are served in view of the brewhouse kettle. 23 S. Main St., Waterbury. 802244-4120; prohibitionpig.com

BRUNCH DOWN HOME KITCHEN

At some restaurants, brunch is a religion. Steps from the Vermont capitol, Down Home’s “Church of Brunch” sings Sunday praises with a thick, low-country accent. The menu changes weekly but revolves around southern comforts like cheesy grits and girthy buttermilk biscuits crowned with eggs or sausage gravy. Seasonal specials might include fried-green-tomato Benedicts and hot blueberry hand pies. Wake up with artisan coffee, brewed strong, or find an afternoon buzz in a mint julep or a glass of brandied milk punch. There’s live jazz and bluegrass on select Sundays. 100 Main St., Montpelier. 802-225-6665; downhomekitchenvt.com

COMFORT FOOD HONEYPIE

Wesley and Chloe Genovart have received several James Beard Award nominations for their South Londonderry restaurant, SoLo Farm & Table. So when they opened up this casual spot under the canopy of a midcentury gas station, everyone knew that the fare would extend beyond the standard frozen-patty-andfries. Still, their menu is classic snack-attack: Find fried chicken sandwiches with a herb-y buttermilk dressing, chunky lobster rolls smothered in butter, and, for dessert or otherwise, milkshakes thick with house-churned ice cream. 8811 Rte. 30, Jamaica. 802-548-4999; eatathoneypie.com

FRENCH CUISINE BISTRO DE MARGOT

As a young student-chef, Bistro de Margot owner Hervé Mahé trained at France’s elite Ecole Supérieure de Cuisine Française. Then he spent 30 years honing his skills at Michelinstarred restaurants in Paris, London, and Seattle. In Burlington, he carefully crafts each dish—from an exquisite foie gras torchon to a pan-seared cod filet—in a way that’s refined yet approachable. 126 College St., Burlington. 802863-5200; bistrodemargot.com

HIDDEN GEM MIKE’S TIKI BAR

After a day spent riding the Kingdom Trails mountain-bike network, swing by this East Burke warm-weather watering hole for a sunset brewski. Hyperlocal pours include

144 | NEWENGLAND.COM

Hunting and Fishing in American Art WILD SPACES, OPEN SEASONS JUNE 3–AUGUST 27 shelburnemuseum.org

and

(detail), 1891.

Great New England Hospitality . . . Enjoy Vermont’s BEST MOUNTAIN VIEWS from your private deck • • • Golf • Pool • Shopping • Dining Suites and Fireplaces 1-800-548-4141 MANCHESTERVIEW.COM

Winslow Homer, A Huntsman

Dogs

Courtesy of

the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The William L. Elkins Collection, 1924.

Mountain Views

Covered Bridge Brewing’s easy-drinking Lucky Me golden ale, while darker, malty brews from Kingdom Brewing make regular appearances as well. Starving? Snag a takeout order of poutine across the parking lot at Burke Publick House or a melty panini from the Vermont Food Truck Company’s mobile kitchen, which parks at the bar nightly, May through October. 44 Belden Hill Road, East Burke. mikestikibar.com

INN RESTAURANT

THE PARKER HOUSE INN

Drawing on her relationships with local farmers, chef Alexandra La Noue-Adler changes her French-inspired menu with the seasons—

NEW AMERICAN CUISINE MISERY LOVES CO.

Steps from the busy Winooski traffic circle, chef-owners Aaron Josinsky and Nathaniel Wade fuel their kitchen with ingredients from dozens of area farms. Sip a glass of wild apple cider with oysters, house-made charcuterie, or buttermilk fried chicken. Adventurous eaters may opt for something outside the standard culinary canon, such as stuffed pheasant, steamed gooseneck barnacles, and whole crawfish. They can do so with confidence: This restaurant’s creative cooking has been praised as among the best in New England by in-the-know foodies at the James Beard Association and Vogue , among other national tastemakers. 46 Main St., Win-

THAI CUISINE SAAP

In Thailand’s northeastern region of Isan, food is intense, flavor-forward, and often spiced with enough chilies to set most American palates aflame. From the airy parlor of a Queen Anne Victorian near the Montague Golf Club in Randolph, chef Nisachon “Rung” Morgan serves Isan specialties such as wood-grilled swai fish wrapped in banana leaves with Thai herbs and coconut, and marinated chicken with fragrant yellow bean sauce. Guests seeking more familiar fare can commune over mild, coconutlaced curries and Bangkok-style dishes like pad Thai and crispy spring rolls. 50 Randolph Ave., Randolph. 802-565-8292; saaprestaurant.com

VERMONT

MASSACHUSETTS

ATTRACTIONS

ADVENTURE PARK

RAMBLEWILD

The Lorax would have a field day at this glorious outdoor course, which is set as high as 45 feet up in trees that stretch as far as the eye can see. Among the ropes, bridges, ladders, and swings, there are five levels (beginner to advanced) represented in eight courses, some of which soar over ravines by way of zip lines. 110 Brodie Mountain Road, Lanesborough. 844472-6253; ramblewild.com

ART MUSEUM

PEABODY ESSEX MUSEUM

What’s here? How about a world-class collection of international art in a beautifully composed and intimate setting? Stroll through the light-flooded atrium into rooms displaying more than 1.8 million works—key pieces of American Impressionism and Chinese and African art—and then into collections of Rodin sculpture and Native American art, all thoughtfully chosen from around the globe by some of the region’s most respected curators. 161 Essex St., Salem. 978-745-9500; pem.org

BIRD-WATCHING SPOT

BROADMOOR WILDLIFE SANCTUARY

Stretching out along Indian Brook and the Charles River, this Mass Audubon sanctuary is home to owls, black-capped chickadees, tree swallows, Eastern bluebirds, and more than 120 other species of feathered friends, many of which use the nest boxes scattered throughout the elaborate trail system. Back at the Saltonstall Nature Center, rotating birding exhibits are on display, and bird-watching groups gather to share the day’s biggest sightings. 280 Eliot St., Natick. 508-655-2296; massaudubon.org

COLLECTIBLES SHOP

NORTH READING COINS, ANTIQUES, AND COLLECTIBLES

From china and rare books to vintage lamps, a trove of unique finds is waiting to be snapped up at this multidealer marketplace. The helpful staff can assist you in finding almost anything, and the stock is replenished daily—so your chances of discovering that next family heirloom rise with each visit. 157 Main St., North Reading. 978-664-4402; goldsilverantiques.com

HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE

PLIMOTH PLANTATION

Upward of a million visitors flood into Plymouth every year to experience firsthand what life

was like in one of America’s first colonies, and for good reason: Thanks to its re-creation of a 17th-century English village filled with actors and its Wampanoag Homesite (populated not by actors but by real Native Americans), Plimoth Plantation provides an immersive, 360-degree view of history. 137 Warren Ave., Plymouth. 508746-1622; plimoth.org

SUMMER STOCK

BERKSHIRE THEATRE GROUP

In an area celebrated for top-notch regional theater, what sets this organization apart? Again and again, fans tout the highly personal experience that its stages offer. In Stockbridge, the Fitzpatrick Main Stage is an iconic 1928 venue that brings in classical productions and world premieres every summer, while the smaller Unicorn Theatre presents experimental and avant-garde work. In Pittsfield, the Colonial Theatre is the go-to for summer musicals. 83 E. Main St., Stockbridge; 6 East St., Stockbridge; 111 South St., Pittsfield. 413-997-4444; berkshiretheatregroup.org

VINEYARD

WESTPORT RIVERS WINERY

When you want a taste of why Westport Rivers is arguably the most esteemed wine producer in the region, hop into the car and spend an afternoon touring the place itself. You can sample the vintages in the wine bar and pick up a few bottles (or, OK, a case) in the abutting company store, where the staff is always ready with pairing tips and recommendations. And when the weather cooperates, bring a picnic and enjoy the resplendent seaside setting. 417 Hixbridge Road, Westport. 508-636-3423; westportrivers.com

LODGING

ADVENTURE LODGING

BERKSHIRE EAST MOUNTAIN RESORT

Cycling enthusiasts know it as the premier bike park in the region. Whitewater lovers adore it for the Deerfield River rafting. Zip-liners queue up for its 200-foot-high canopy tours. And roller coaster junkies can’t get enough of the Thunderbolt, North America’s longest mountain coaster. In winter, skiing and snow tubing come into the picture, too. 66 Thunder Mountain Road, Charlemont. 413-339-6617; berkshireeast.com

BOUTIQUE INN THE MERCHANT

With just 11 bright and pretty rooms smack in the middle of historic Salem, the Merchant is an unquestionably charming mix of history

(George Washington once stayed overnight, and portions of the Salem witch trials took place on the property) and modernity. Eclectic accents like funky Lucite chairs and emerald cheetah-patterned fabrics contrast with fireplaces and wooden beams, while amenities such as complimentary iPads and a bustling, cushy guest lounge up the coolness factor. 148 Washington St., Salem. 978-745-8100; themerchantsalem.com

COUNTRY B&B

SEVEN SOUTH STREET INN

Offering roomy chambers graced with fresh flowers and four-poster beds, Rockport’s much loved bed-and-breakfast is equal parts cozy and cosseting. Walk over to Old Garden Beach for the day, explore nearby Rockport Village, or just lounge around the pool for hours after polishing off breakfast. The latter is an event unto itself, thanks to such treats as peaches-and-cream Belgian waffles, scrambled egg casserole with sweet potato hash, and apple strudel French toast with bacon rosettes. 7 South St., Rockport. 978-5466708; sevensouthstreetinn.com

FAMILY LODGING

CHATHAM BARS INN

After the tykes have had their fill of the tennis courts, the private quarter-mile beach, biking, water sports, and the on-site farm, they can jump into hands-on and educational activities galore. All summer long, the tony resort offers a slew of programs that run from pirate cruises and seal-watching to clam digging and scavenger hunts, all led by CPR-and-first-aidcertified instructors who seem to be having nearly as much fun as the kids. 297 Shore Road, Chatham. 508-945-0096; chathambarsinn.com

HISTORIC B&B

CANDLEBERRY INN

Stroll through the heart of the Old King’s Highway Historic District and you’ll run right into this Georgian-style beauty, where the nine guest rooms feature Winslow Homer prints and poster beds, fireplaces, and 200-year-old pine floors. Loved for its epic breakfasts taken in the 1790s dining room, it’s an ideal spot from which to explore the rest of the Cape. 1882 Main St., Brewster. 508-896-3300; candleberryinn.com

INN FOR FOODIES

THE WAUWINET

Tucked into the quiet and breezy northeast point of Nantucket, this sprawling seaside property is where to come when it isn’t about the scene, it’s about the scenery—and the taste buds. From your seat at Topper’s restaurant, gaze across the pristine lawn to a beach sunset as

146 | NEWENGLAND.COM BEST OF NEW ENGLAND

Escape to Southeastern Massachusetts...

Attleboro Area Industrial Museum, Inc.

42 Union St. Attleboro, MA 02703 508-222-3918

www.industrialmuseum.com

Come discover the Attleboro Area Industrial Museum collection with five permanent exhibits; including The L.G. Balfour Exhibit, Philip Kraczkowski Exhibit, and The History of Button Manufacturing. See many other displays highlighting industries and products crafted in the Attleboro area.

Dartmouth Residence Inn by Marriott

181 Faunce Corner Road Dartmouth, MA 02747 508-984-5858

www.marriott.com/ewbri

Destination New Bedford

133 William Street Room 119 New Bedford, MA 02740 508-979-1745

www.destinationnewbedford.org

New Bedford Whaling Museum

18 Johnny Cake Hill New Bedford, MA 02740 508-997-0046

www.whalingmuseum.org

Discover the dramatic history of whaling. Explore the science of whales and modern conservation efforts. Get a feel for life at sea, and climb aboard the world’s largest ship model, the Lagoda. Great harbor views, multi-media exhibits, historic area.

Metro South Chamber of Commerce

60 School St., Brockton MA 02301 508-586-0500

www.metrosouthchamber.com

Lakes, trails, attractions. In Metro South, we have it all. Stay for less with convenient access to Boston, Providence, Plymouth, and Cape Cod in 30 minutes! When Metro South is Home, Everything is Within Reach! Call the Metro South Chamber for your free brochure.

At the Dartmouth/New Bedford Resi dence Inn , we have perfected the extended-stay experience for travelers combining all of the comforts of home with our legendary Marriott service. Dartmouth is just minutes from South Coast’s many popular attractions!

Fairhaven Massachusetts

Visitors Center, 141 Main St. Fairhaven, MA 02719 508-979-4085

FairhavenTours.com

A small town with a big history. Recently named one of the most scenic places on the East Coast, the seaside town of Fairhaven, MA, offers European style architecture, top rated historical walking tours, beaches, fine restaurants, shops, and marinas.

A historic, sightseeing city to explore. New Bedford is home to artist studios, unique shopping, year-round festivals, seaside dining and performing arts. Visit the Whaling National Historic Park, Buttonwood Park Zoo, the #1 Fishing Port in America, beaches and our Seaport Cultural District. Funded

by the Massachusetts

and relax in Southeastern Massachusetts. Enjoy a day on one of our many beaches. Visit the historic sights, or take a ferry to the islands for the day. Have a romantic dinner and take in a show. So close to Boston, and so far from the crowds. We have a place waiting for you by the ocean. Greater

Greater

Tri-Town

Come

Attleboro | Greater Fall River |

New Bedford | Greater Taunton |

Seastreak Ferry

Vineyard

a Seastreak ferry

Nantucket or Martha’s Vineyard and Skip the Cape Traffic!

an hour

more each way! Convenient dockside VIP parking

Valet

the

you step aboard!

To Nantucket And Martha’s

49 State Pier, New Bedford, MA 02740 1-800-262-8743 Seastreak.com Take

Save

and

available. Your vacation begins

moment

you dig into foie gras with apricots, Sauternes, and Marcona almonds; seaweed butter–poached lobster; or any of the other gorgeous dishes on offer. The spectacular wine selection lists nearly 1,500 labels, all chosen and poured by sommeliers with the kind of attentiveness typically reserved for child-rearing. 120 Wauwinet Road, Nantucket. 508-228-0145; wauwinet.com

INN WITH A VIEW

LAND’S END INN

Looking out from the high tower rooms hovering above Provincetown Harbor (each richly appointed with heirloom-quality antiques and private decks and patios), you’ll see the sea stretching out endlessly before you. Perched atop Gulf Hill in the town’s serene West End, the inn provides views of islands, clusters of sailboats, and winding beaches so enchanting that guests almost feel as if they’re out to sea themselves. 22 Commercial St., Provincetown. 508487-0706; landsendinn.com

ISLAND INN

THE CHARLOTTE INN

No detail is overlooked in this, Edgartown’s enclave of Edwardian stateliness. Framed with gardens, fountains, and sculpture, the inn’s interior is pure English country fantasy. Understated luxury pervades, from the library’s leather club

chairs and pastoral oil paintings to the suites’ Frette linens and impeccable period furniture. If you ever manage to leave your room, the inn’s restaurant serves beautiful food (local lobster with saffron sherry sauce, for one) that’s as magical as the rest of the place. 27 S. Summer St., Edgartown. 508-627-4751; thecharlotteinn.com

LEARNING ESCAPE

THE GATEWAYS INN

Lovely, bright décor and a friendly, fun staff have made the Gateways a favorite for visitors to the Berkshires. And then there’s the five-star food, which you can not only eat but also learn to whip up yourself. The property arranges private cooking lessons year-round, so by the time you get home you’ll know how to turn out a butternut squash pappardelle or a lamb stew as succulent as the kitchen’s much-lauded version. 51 Walker St., Lenox. 413-637-2532; gatewaysinn.com

OCEANSIDE RESORT

WEQUASSETT RESORT AND GOLF CLUB

As if the consistently nimble and affable staff weren’t enough to keep us coming back to this stunning beachside resort, there’s also a secret weapon that puts guests’ experiences over the top. The management encourages employees to get creative and improvise in surprising guests with perks such as invitations to cooking classes,

coloring-book deliveries to the room, and a plate of fresh-baked cookies with a personalized message (in chocolate sauce, no less). 2173 Rte. 28, Harwich. 508-432-5400; wequassett.com

ROMANTIC GETAWAY WHEATLEIGH

It isn’t just that every detail—from the quietly luxurious, antiques-laden 19 rooms to the museum-quality artwork—embodies rustic elegance at this 1893 palazzo. It’s that the totality of your experience here sets the stage for amour: 22 manicured acres in the Berkshires that invite long walks, dinners that prompt lingering over world-class dishes, and seamless service that ensures that your attention remains on precious time with your partner. Hawthorne Road, Lenox. 413-637-0610; wheatleigh.com

UPDATED FAVORITE BLUE

A 2016 renovation breathed new life into this longtime Plum Island destination, including a new color palette (blues, beiges, and whites) that mimics the beach scene just steps from the 13-room hotel. Options include five standalone cottages with full kitchen, hot tub, and fire pit, ideal for a family escape. Or gather some friends and all the fixings for a classic New England lobster bake, and reserve the

Apples • Famous Cider Donuts Maple Syrup • Homemade Candy Delicatessen • Scratch Bakery & More! Enjoy A Unique Shopping Experience Where Old Time Customer Service Is An Everyday Treat. The Original Country Market! FLAGSHIP STORE: AT THE CORNER OF ROUTE 116 & BAY ROAD • SOUTH AMHERST, MA Tel. (413) 253-9528 or (800) 594-9537 www.atkinsfarms.com VISIT OUR SATELLITE STORE: 113 COWLS RD. NORTH AMHERST C M Y CM MY CY CMY K Springfield CVB.pdf 1 2/18/2016 11:11:37 AM curiousinspired LEAVE ARRIVE 800-723-1548 valleyvisitor. com BRIMFIELD STARTS TUESDAY • MAY 9 th 5,000 Dealers of Antiques &Collectibles 2017 SHOW DATES: May 9 -14, July 11-16 & September 5-10 www.brimfield.com Rte 20, Brimfield, MA TAKE NOTE Antique Lovers The Yiddish Book Center The World’s First Yiddish Museum ,  – . Named a “Local Treasure” by Yankee Magazine Discover an authentic New England village historic-deerfield.org · 413-775-7214 Get Your FREE Western MA Guide

MASSACHUSETTS

nrm.org Stockbridge, MA open daily 413.298.4100 June - October, 2017 Generously sponsored by The Hayseed Hill Foundation, Inc. & The Red Lion Inn. Inventing America: Rockwell & Warhol JULY 1-3 16 YEAR 200 ARTISTS Ski Butternut | Rt 23 Great Barrington, MA AUGUST 17-20 NEW LENOX EVENT 125 ARTISTS • WORKSHOPS Eastover Estate | 430 East St. Lenox, MA 2 GREAT SUMMER ARTEVENTS BerkshiresArtsFestival.com SAVE ON ADMISSION • WATCH VIDEO C M Y CM MY CY CMY K EDITH WHARTON’S HOME EdithWharton.org 413.551.5111 HISTORY & BEAUTY Without the Velvet Ropes We’ve got you covered when visiting the Berkshires! Pittsﬁeld, MA 413-448-2222 t LenoxPittsﬁeld.HGI.com Great Barrington, MA 413-644-3200 t Marriott.com/GBRFI Enjoy our award-winning hotels, minutes from major theatres, restaurants & attractions. OF WESTERN MASSACHUSETTS OPENING JULY 4, 2014 CLARKART.EDU 413 458 2303 HancockShakerVillage.org pa one 3025 C Go back in time, forward in thought. nrm.org Stockbridge, MA 413.298.4100 open daily Hopper & Rockwell America’s favorite artists this summer TANNERY POND CONCERTS Chamber Music Concerts with world-class musicians May through October 888 820 1696 TANNERYPOND CONCERTS.ORG EDITHWHARTON.ORG jiminypeak.com Summer is Here ACTION & SUMMER FUN FOR EVERYONE! Celebrating 92 Amazing Summers in the Berkshires! Enroll Today For Summer 2014 Day Camp and Sleepover Camp ~ Ages 3 to 16 Flexible Sessions ~ Beautiful Lake Buel Campus Only 5 miles from Gt. Barrington, MA camphalfmoon.com 888-528-0940 Performing Works by C P E and J S Bac Mendelssohn, Brahms Dowland, Purcell, Muh “A Dazzling Performance ” Boston Musical Intelligen June 19 - July 19, 2014 In the Berkshires and Beyond (800) 595-4TIX (4849) www.astonmagna.org 

Provincetown

two-bedroom Blue Suite: The 2,200-squarefoot space offers a full kitchen, a private hot tub, a fireplace, and your own private entrance to the beach (which you probably won’t leave until the sun rises the next morning). 20 Fordham Way, Newbury. 978-463-6128; blueinn.com

DINING

BAKERY

MAISON VILLATTE

Boris Villatte trained with the legendary Eric Kayser and Alain Ducasse in Paris and plied his trade around the world before moving to Falmouth to open a bakery-patisserie named Maison Villatte. Here, his classical education shines in such treats as pain aux raisins , éclairs, and fruit tarts. Then there are the little meringue kisses, savory croissants, and breads flavored with bacon, cheese, and olives. These treasures are so masterfully made that they retain a moist crumb long after lesser loaves turn stale. There’s no better baguette in New England, and the large, country-style rounds are worth the oftenlong waits during the peak summer season. 267 Main St., Falmouth. 774-255-1855

BAR

THE BALDWIN BAR/BALDWIN & SONS TRADING CO.

Perhaps it’s partly their unexpected setting (the former Baldwin mansion in suburban Woburn) or the fact that they’re connected to their sister restaurant, Sichuan Garden, where dry hot chicken wings stoke a thirst for cocktails by bartender Ran Duan. But even without the element of surprise, these two bars would win awards. Their menus are different—the first-floor Baldwin Bar goes the more tropical/ tiki route, while the second-floor Baldwin & Sons has a vintage vibe—but the attention to detail is the same. Upstairs, the Betty Draper pairs gin and lime with a cloud of coconut air. Downstairs, bitters cozy up to rum and cream sherry in a concoction called Death Proof. Duan is winning national titles on the competitive bartending circuit—come see what all the fuss is about. 2 Alfred St., Woburn. 781-9358488; thebaldwinbar.com

BRUNCH

ARTISTRY ON THE GREEN

This is no massive hotel brunch buffet designed to overstuff and overwhelm. Like the 22-room inn that houses it—a Relais & Châteaux beauty just a stone’s throw from the Lexington Common, where the Revolutionary War began— this is a boutique experience. The well-curated menu features fluffy buttermilk pancakes with orange butter and real maple syrup, eggs Benedict with brown butter hollandaise, and a hanger steak with Anson Mills grits. Just the right number of choices to please everyone. It’s the perfect way to begin a day of trekking through history. 2027 Massachusetts Ave., Lexington. 781-301-6655; innathastingspark.com

COMFORT FOOD SUPERFINE

The Cambridge restaurant scene lost one of its darlings when chef Matthew Gaudet decided to shutter his 3-year-old award-winning restaurant, West Bridge, due in part to high rent. His next move: heading to his wife’s North Shore hometown to open a casual counter-service spot with great salads, pizzas, ribs, and burgers, all with little touches to elevate them. For example, there’s lamb sausage and pepperoncini on one pizza; the kale salad comes with honey, preserved lemon, and chickpeas; ribs arrive glazed with whiskey; and the burger is offered in beef and fish variations. 25 Union St., Manchesterby-the-Sea. 978-526-0964; superfinefood.com

FARM-TO-TABLE DINING

CANTINA 229

The menu may be fully global—from Chinese tea-smoked chicken to richly smoked eggplant with za’atar and labneh to the classic American burger—but the orientation is entirely local. Chef-owner Josh Irwin, who first opened Cantina 229 as a casual Taco Tuesdays supper club with wife Emily Rachel in 2014, can tell you all about the pork and vegetables raised right there on the property, or about the goat cheese from nearby Rawson Brook Farm, or the greens from down the road. Even the building itself, a lovely post-and-beam, was constructed and then renovated using local materials. 229 Hartsville–New Marlborough Road, New Marlborough. 413229-3276; cantina229.com.

GENERAL STORE MONTEREY GENERAL STORE

The general store may be an endangered species, too often shrunk down to a rack of chips, a wood stove, and an aisle of groceries, but the form still thrives in unassuming Monterey, east of Great Barrington. This 1780 emporium sells flaky croissants, local produce and cheeses, pantry staples, and a thoughtful selection of gifts. Owner Scott Cole is a chef by training, which is obvious the minute you tuck into a slice of plum-hazelnut tart or the beef tenderloin sandwich. Come for breakfast, and enjoy fresh scones and a view of the Konkapot River. 448 Main Road, Monterey. 413-528-5900; monterey-general-store.com

STEAKHOUSE THE BANCROFT

In designing a modern steakhouse for the suburban shopping hub of Burlington, the Webber Restaurant Group and chef Mario Capone seem to have examined every archetypal element of the genre, deconstructed it, and rebuilt it with a twist. So while there are banquettes and plenty of dark wood, the feel is airy and modern. And while still boasting steak tartare, creamed spinach, and plenty of chops, the menu remixes all the standards with unexpected accents (such as violet mustard, made with pressed grapes, in the tartare) and local produce (the Webber Group also owns Gibbet Hill Farm in Groton, which supplies the kitchen). Yet, true to the best steakhouses, the wine list is huge, the service polished,

Voted Best Beach Town, Fodor’s “Top Ten Small Towns in America” Smithsonian Magazine “Top Ten Best Small Cultural Towns in America” iPtown Your Provincetown. America’s First Destination Ptowntourism.com 150 | NEWENGLAND.COM

MASSACHUSETTS

and the kitchen consistent, turning out meat cooked perfectly to temperature and with a mouthwatering crust. 15 Third Ave., Burlington. 781-221-2100; the-bancroft.com

Boston + Cambridge

ATTRACTIONS

ART MUSEUM

ISABELLA STEWART GARDNER MUSEUM

Few small museums in the world are as admired—or as distinctive—as the Gardner. Its namesake socialite and arts patron lived and entertained in this four-floor Italian palazzo before designating it and all the art within as a museum in her will. Today, with a modern wing newly added, the Gardner houses a simply stunning collection of international paintings and sculpture, with an emphasis on American artists such as John Singer Sargent. 25 Evans Way, Boston. 617566-1401; gardnermuseum.org

tourlexington.us GUIDED TOURS & HISTORIC SITES LODGING & DINING ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Spend the Day Stay the Night WAMPANOAG HOMESITE • 17TH-CENTURY ENGLISH VILLAGE • CRAFT CENTER • WATERFRONT EXHIBIT SHOULD I STAY OR SHOULD I GO? • PLIMOTH GRIST MILL • PLIMOTH BREAD COMPANY WHERE HISTORY COMES ALIVE! Outdoor exhibits open 9:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m. through November 137 WARREN AVE PLYMOUTH, MA (508) 746-1622 PLIMOTH.ORG

ASPARAGUS FESTIVAL

HADLEY TOWN

COMMON 10-5 FREE ADMISSION

MUSIC+MARKET+BEER+FOOD+FUN FOR KIDS

DETAILS AT wgby.org/asparagus

BOOKSTORE TRIDENT BOOKSELLERS & CAFÉ

One of the few independent bookshops left in town, Newbury Street’s Trident Booksellers is also a paragon of its genre. Featuring an in-depth selection of best-selling fiction and nonfiction, breakout new authors, guidebooks, and magazines, it’s a wonderful spot in which to hole up for an afternoon, grab a seat and a sandwich in the café, and get lost in a good potboiler or some soul-satisfying poetry. 338 Newbury St., Boston. 617-2678688; tridentbookscafe.com

FARMERS’ MARKET CHARLES SQUARE MARKET

HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE

BOSTON TEA PARTY SHIPS AND MUSEUM

It may be 244 years later, but let’s face it: Reenacting one of the American Revolution’s best-known acts of rebellion just never gets old. On the authentically renovated wooden ships, visitors can soak up the cathartic thrill of dumping tea overboard after a quick history lesson via the holographic displays and films, then peruse the authentic tea chests from the original protest. 306 Congress St., Boston. 866-955-0667; bostonteapartyship.com

MUSIC CAFÉ CLUB PASSIM

Heroes and legends from Joan Baez to Regina Spektor have graced this stage and sometimes still do, because the place is a legend in its own right. Since 1958 the tiny and friendly Club Passim has been a magnet for folk music and bluegrass lovers, Celtic and a cappella fans, world music and klezmer performers alike. Skip dinner elsewhere, order up a dish and a drink from the kitchen, settle in for the show, and see what the night has to offer. 47 Palmer St., Cambridge. 617-4927679; passim.org

PUBLIC GARDEN ARNOLD ARBORETUM

A stroll through this Harvard University–owned, Frederick Law Olmsted–designed landscape is no ordinary walk in the park. This is where you’ll find some of the most rare and majestic trees and plants (all helpfully labeled) in the entire country. They’re spread across verdant meadows, fields, and

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Celebrating all things Local and Agricultural!

Original illustration by Gayle Kabaker

2017 JUNE 3

® | 153 MAY | JUNE 2017 IN N at hastings park the at hastings park Located in historic Lexington, MA, where America’s fight for liberty began Experience Revolutionary Hospitality INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the 2027 massachusetts ave. | lexingto n, ma 02421 | 781 • 301 • 6660 | www.innathastingspark.com the inn at hastings park offers gracious service, design that reflects a contemporary twist on the traditional, and seasonal new england cuisine prepared in our casually elegant restaurant, artistry on the green. IN N at hastings park the Located in historic Lexington, MA, where America’s fight for liberty began Experience Revolutionary Hospitality INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the 2027 massachusetts ave. | lexingto n, ma 02421 | 781 • 301 • 6660 | www.innathastingspark.com the inn at hastings park offers gracious service, design that reflects a contemporary twist on the traditional, and seasonal new england cuisine prepared in our casually elegant restaurant, artistry on the green. IN N at hastings park the at hastings park Located in historic Lexington, MA, where America’s fight for liberty began Experience Revolutionary Hospitality INN at hastings park INN at hastings park INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the INN at hastings park the 2027 massachusetts ave. | lexingto n, ma 02421 | 781 • 301 • 6660 | www.innathastingspark.com the inn at hastings park offers gracious service, design that reflects a contemporary twist on the traditional, and seasonal new england cuisine prepared in our casually elegant restaurant, artistry on the green.

MASSACHUSETTS

summer 2017

Enjoy classical music with Andris Nelsons and the Boston Symphony Orchestra, joined by worldrenowned guest artists, along with concerts featuring the Boston Pops, Natalie Merchant, John Mellencamp, the Avett Brothers and more, at the idyllic summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra.

888-266-1200 • tanglewood.org

between lenox and stockbridge

We’re Row 34. If we could eat oysters and drink beer for every meal period, we probably would. Professionals Only.

gardens, herbariums, bonsai collections, and greenhouses—all equally educational and bucolic. 125 Arborway, Boston. 617-5241718; arboretum.harvard.edu

URBAN FARM

ALLANDALE FARM

At Boston proper’s oldest working farm, regulars come by throughout the growing season to find something that meshes an extensive nursery with a garden center, and a small family farm with an old-fashioned country store. Fresh-picked cucumbers, tomatoes, sunflowers, and handmade breads line the wooden bins; home decor and indoor herbs sit next to the penny candy; freshbaked apple pies and fruits are here, too, from purveyors all over the area. At the holidays, Allandale Farm’s selection of Christmas trees is of the highest quality around. 259 Allandale Road, Brookline. 617-524-1531; allandalefarm.com

LODGING

DOG-FRIENDLY HOTEL

XV BEACON

Among the many amenities offered to humans at Beacon Hill’s posh boutique hotel, one of them is the knowledge that your furry companion will be equally catered to. Opt for the “Dazzle Your Dog” package, and Fido will be treated to homemade dog biscuits in a personalized dish, a cushy dog bed, and a bowl of filtered water. Meanwhile, you’ll get help finding nearby pet-friendly sites to visit (with cleanup bags). Don’t feel like making the rounds yourself? Walking services are available, too. 15 Beacon St., Boston. 617-6701500; xvbeacon.com

FAMILY LODGING

THE LANGHAM

Few properties in the city are better located for multigenerational satisfaction, as the Langham is located a few minutes’ walk from Faneuil Hall Marketplace, the New England Aquarium, and the Freedom Trail. Rather spend the day chilling at the hotel instead? Grab the kids and head to the Chocolate Bar brunch, an epic buffet of elaborate and creative sweets. Afterward, let everyone make the most of their food coma with a nap in your adjoining family suites. 250 Franklin St., Boston. 617-451-1900; langhamhotels.com

ROW 34

5 Portwalk Place Portsmouth, NH

www.row34nh.com

HOTEL WITH A VIEW

BOSTON HARBOR HOTEL

There are plenty of excellent reasons to spend the night at the Boston Harbor Hotel, but the most compelling is the availability of panoramic vistas of Boston Harbor and the Atlantic Ocean through the guest rooms’

03-13-17_R34-Yankee-4.5.indd 1 3/13/17 6:44 PM

boston symphony orchestra andris nelsons music director

154 | NEWENGLAND.COM

The Value of Luxury Introducing two exceptional New England luxury boutique properties by Troca Hotels. Tyngsboro, Massachusetts www.stonehedgeinnandspa.com 160 Pawtucket Blvd • Tyngsboro, MA 01879 info@stonehedgeinnandspa.com (978) 649-4400 Brunswick, Maine www.thedanielhotel.com 10 Water Street • Brunswick, ME 04011 info@thedanielhotel.com (207) 373-1824 I-91, Exit 24 · 25 Green eld Road, South Deer eld, MA 877.636.7707 · yankeecandle.com/village #YankeeCandleVillage Explore Yankee Candle Village—there’s lots of fun in store… Candle Emporium 200,000 candles and over 200 fragrances! Fun for Kids Create a custom candle or a wax mold of your hand. Bavarian Village 25-ft. Christmas tree and it snows…inside! Meet Santa, All Year Round Explore his workshop overflowing with toys. Satisfy Your Sweet Tooth Ben & Jerry’s, Popcornopolis®, Yankee Candy and yummy handmade fudge. What will you Yankee Mag Ad_6.75x4.5.indd 1 3/17/17 10:06 AM

Salem s Most Visited Museum

floor-to-ceiling windows. From your aerie you can watch yachts, ferries, and sailboats chug along, and even witness the drama of weather as it rolls in. 70 Rowes Wharf, Boston. 617-439-7000; bhh.com

NEW HOTEL THE ENVOY

It’s hard to top the allure of the Envoy, near Fort Point Channel in the expanding Seaport District. As soon as its eighth-floor rooftop bar opened in 2015, locals were lining up after work to savor the alluring view of the Boston skyline. Many of the 136 rooms in the hotel offer the same exquisite view (especially the corner suite one floor below). The spacious rooms have historic maps of the city painted on the glass doors that lead to the shower, flat-screen televisions hidden in the wall, and large windows that bathe everything in sunlight. 70 Sleeper St., Boston. 617338-3030; theenvoyhotel.com

DINING

CULINARY EVENT EATALY

How else do you describe 45,000 square feet of Italian retail space, food courts, and a dedicated focaccia bar and cannoli cart but as an event ? Yes, Eataly is an international chain helmed by superstar New Yorkers Mario Batali and Joe and Lidia Bastianich, and no, it shouldn’t prevent you from enjoying the farm-to-table pleasures of the wonderful Boston Public Market. But the sheer volume of treasures to be found in this Prudential Center emporium makes it well worth a visit. While Eataly may be, as we say, “from away,” it’s still a feather in our cap. 800 Boylston St., Boston. 617-807-7300; eataly.com

FARM-TO-TABLE DINING BRASSICA

Sure, co-owners Phil Kruta and Jeremy Kean have designed their menu around area suppliers and Mother Nature, but this neighborhood café/bakery/restaurant is refreshingly free of earnest tale-telling (“the chickens are gently nurtured on Berkshire grain”). Instead, the vibe is all fun, even as the food is held to high standards. Homemade doughnuts in the morning, chicken and waffles for brunch, and spag Bolognese for dinner—only the pasta is made in-house and the sauce is enriched with chicken liver mousse. 3710 Washington St., Jamaica Plain. 617-4774519; fazendaboston.com

GREEK CUISINE DORETTA

With a slew of Hellenic eateries jazzing up the city’s dining scene lately, from the Seaport District’s Committee to Jody Adams’s fast-casual Saloniki mini chain, there’s no

A National Historic Landmark On The Freedom Trail One Block From Historic Faneuil Hall Welcome To America’s Oldest Restaurant Specializing In Hearty Portions Of Yankee Style Seafood, Fresh New England Lobster And Grilled Meats Sunday-Thursday 11 am-9:30 pm • Friday & Saturday 11 am-10 pm • Union Bar til-Midnight Functions • Validated Parking • All Major Credit Cards Honored • Reservations Recommended Visit Our Website • www.unionoysterhouse.com 617-227-2750 41 Union Street • Boston Yankee Travel 2012 4.875x4.75 2/16/12 11:54 AM Page 1

S tar t with On Historic Salem Common Open Year Round 19 1/2 Washington Square North Salem, Massachusetts 01970 Visit us on Shop at our museum store onsite & online! 978.744.1692 salemwitchmuseum.com 156 | NEWENGLAND.COM

MASSACHUSETTS

| 157 MAY | JUNE 2017 kembleinn.com nejaimeswine.com bos.org shakespeare.org tablesixlenox.com

Perfect your great escape by staying at one of VRI’s 13 beautiful condominium style resorts BREWSTER Brewster Green Resort DENNISPORT SeaWinds II Resort Edgewater Beach Resort HYANNIS Cape Winds Resort MASHPEE Cape Cod Holiday Estates Sea Mist Resort RESERVATIONS: 866.469.8222 www.8664myvacation.com YANKM THE BEST KEPT SECRET ON THE CAPE NANTUCKET Brant Point Courtyard YARMOUTH e Cove at Yarmouth Holly Tree Resort Riverview Resort FALMOUTH InnSeason Resort: Captain’s Quarters InnSeason Resort: HarborWalk InnSeason Resort: Surfside Experience Cape Cod Where to Stay... Where to Stay... redjacketresorts.com 800-CAPECOD 800-227-3263 Red Jacket Beach Resort and Spa | Blue Water Resort Riviera Beach Resort | Green Harbor Resort and our Blue Rock Golf Course adjacent Blue Rock Resort OCEANFRONT RESORTS | PRIVATE BEACHES SPA | GOLF | ACTIVITIES Your Perfect Cape Cod Vacation

Cape Cod on Cape Cod

You'll enjoy the area attractions, inflatable water park, mini-golf, restaurants for every taste and budget and we're close to beautiful beaches. Relax around our indoor and outdoor pools. Golf packages available.

Welcome to Falmouth

Near historic Falmouth Village, Falmouth Heights Beach, shops and attractions. Indoor Pool and Spa, Outdoor Pool, full accommodations, free continental breakfast. Townhouse suites available.

51 Teaticket Highway Rte 28 Falmouth, MA 02536 508-548-4240• www.theadmiraltyinn.com

Overlooking The Harbor In Woods Hole Village

Breathtaking views of Martha's Vineyard Sound, and award winning gardens. A short stroll to Vineyard Boats (with FREE DAY PARKINGfor our guests), waterview restaurants, sandy beaches, picturesque Nobska Lighthouse and the world renowned marine science center and exhibits. Your choice of our contemporary inn with private balconies and patios or the gracious charm of our Harbor House with its many working fireplaces. Secluded outdoor heated pool. Wi-Fi

AT THE HISTORIC BOURNE BRIDGE

Adjacent to the Cape Cod Canal. Stay with us and enjoy the area historic attractions,canal sightseeing, oceanside restaurants, area shops and boutiques. Relax around our indoor pool and jacuzzi. Free continental breakfast.

Inn & Harbor House

549 Woods Hole Road, Box 106 Woods Hole (Falmouth), MA 02543 • 508-548-6300

Reservations: 1-800-841- 0114 www.sandsoftime.com

114 Trowbridge Rd. Bourne. MA 02532 508-759-3883 • www.allseasonsinncapecod.com

573 Rte 28 W. Yarmouth, MA 02673 508-771-7887 www.marinercapecod.com

Heated Pools/Hot Tub Free Hi-Speed WIFI/Business Center Exercise Room 32" Flat Screen TV/Coffee Maker/Hair Dryer Mini Refrigerator/Iron/AC/Heat FREE Continental Breakfast 1199 Route 28 S. Yarmouth, MA 02664 508-394-7600 www.allseasons.com

www.vacationinncapecod.com

Indoor/Outdoor

Your Vacation Begins Here

question that Greek cuisine is to this decade what northern Italian cooking was to the ’90s. But of all the nouveau renderings of grilled octopus and spinach pie out there, our favorites come from the kitchen of Brendan Pelley, who took over as chef de cuisine at Doretta last autumn. He brings the same inventiveness that made his 2015 pop-up, Pelekasis, such a hit, while preserving the mainstays of Michael Schlow’s original menu (including the excellent Village Salad and crispy lamb meatballs). 79 Park Plaza, Boston. 617-422-0008; dorettaboston.com

ITALIAN CUISINE

SRV

SRV, where have you been all our lives?

Sure, a Venetian-style wine bar (or bacaro , as they say in the Most Serene Republic) with an ambitious menu may have been a riskier launch than some vaguely Tuscan trattoria or a generic Mamma’s Meatballs joint, but Boston is a seafood town and, conveniently, so is Venice. And co-owners Michael Lombardi and Kevin O’Donnell can cook, as evidenced by cult favorites like the half-moon casunziei pasta stuffed with beets and garnished with poppy seeds and nori, and the baby clams with guanciale , garlic bread, and chili pepper. And, OK, the meatballs at SRV are fantastic. No

wonder the place is always filled with a happy crowd of New Englanders discovering the culinary wonders of Italy’s Northeast Kingdom. 569 Columbus Ave., Boston. 617-5369500; srvboston.com

MODERN SEAFOOD

WAYPOINT

If you come to Waypoint looking for expertly broiled scrod and linguine with clams, you may be disappointed. The food at this, Michael Scelfo’s latest eatery, is “coastalinspired.” That leaves a lot of room for globetrotting, with octopus polpetti (meatballs) cozying up to king crab served with black rice and browned butter. But you just have to trust the chef here. The food is simply fantastic. 1030 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge. 617-8642300; waypointharvard.com

NEW ENGLAND CUISINE

LOYAL NINE

First, let’s get the jokes out of the way: Yes, there is such a thing as New England cuisine. No, it’s not all overcooked scrod. Loyal Nine chef-owner Marc Sheehan proves this nightly at his East Cambridge restaurant, where he applies precise technique to heritage cooking. Armed with a degree in history and an enviable collection of vintage cookbooks,

Sheehan works with his team to turn out superlative dishes such as Race Point oysters dressed with chamomile vinegar, molassesgrilled pork ribs, a succulent mead-braised lobster, ample roasts designed to be shared, and more. True, the conceit sometimes verges on preciousness, but that’s only because everything is done with such care. 660 Cambridge St., East Cambridge. 617-945-2576; loyalninecambridge.com

PRIX FIXE DINING

FAT HEN

For $45, here’s what you get: semolina rolls from a wood-fired oven, followed by your choice of four courses, with such tempting offerings as spicy-sweet fluke crudo; mushrooms stuffed with chanterelles, walnuts, and creamy cheese; and homemade tortellini in a broth that chef Michael Bergin coaxes into life over five days of simmering. You can have swordfish dusted with dehydrated orange and fennel, or tender lamb loin with a kick of black garlic. And for dessert, an excellent fruit tart with olive oil gelato. It’s so rare these days to leave a restaurant with your socks knocked off and your wallet intact, but a visit to Fat Hen ensures that you’ll do just that. 126 Broadway, Somerville. 617-764-1612; fathenboston.com

ey’d have a lot of stories to share about life at e Red Lion Inn. From their unique vantage point, these rockers could reminisce about tradition…the celebrations…the intimate moments…even just sitting on the Front Porch watching the world go by. Yes. ese chairs could say a lot. But sadly chairs can’t talk. And considering everything they’ve seen and heard, maybe that’s a good thing.

Stockbridge, MA redlioninn.com

MASSACHUSETTS

WHO KNEW HISTORY COULD BE SO AWESOME!

The

Make history this summer at Old Sturbridge Village – New England’s largest living history museum. Meet costumed artisans and farmers, explore historic buildings and collections, wander through the Village’s gardens and nature trails, and attend an outdoor festival or theatrical production. Old Sturbridge Village... More than a museum. Call 508-347-5056 for an exclusive Yankee Magazine subscriber discount at the Old Sturbridge Inn and Reeder Family Lodges.

Adventures of Huckleberry Finn

BY BRIAN CLOWDUS EXPERIENCES AND OLD STURBRIDGE VILLAGE MUSIC AND LYRICS BY ROGER MILLER | BOOK BY WILLIAM HAUPTMAN ADAPTED FROM THE NOVEL BY MARK TWAIN Live Outdoor Musical June 14 – July 9

Winning Inn & Lodges A CELEBRATION TRANSPORTATION INDEPENDENCE 4th of July Four Day Celebration | July 1 – 4 Brews, Bands and Bites | July 23 Extend Your Stay! Antique Autos, Bikes and Carriages | June 10 & 11

PRESENTED

Award

Freetown Cohasset Hull Rockland Abington Plympton Middleboro Rochester Mattapoiset Marion Onset Pembroke Norwell 44 6 6 495 195 495 93 90 3A 3A 3A 3 3 58 58 106 25 28 28 28 24 800.231.1620 SeePlymouth.com Duxbury Marshﬁeld 3A County History and Heritage Along Coastal Massachusetts Where Will Your Visit Begin? PLYMOUTH Sandwich Fall River Scituate Quincy

CONNECTICUT

ATTRACTIONS

ADVENTURE PARK

IT ADVENTURE ROPES COURSE

The world’s largest indoor ropes course has a peculiar name and an even zanier location— inside the New Haven outpost of Jordan’s Furniture. Brave tightropes, rope bridges, climbing walls, and a 50-foot free fall, or zip-line high above music-synced liquid fireworks, all while safely harnessed. 40 Sargent Dr., New Haven. 203-812-9981; jordans.com/attractions/it

ART MUSEUM

WADSWORTH ATHENEUM MUSEUM OF ART

America’s oldest continuously operating public art museum has been growing its collection since the brushstrokes on Hudson River School landscapes were barely dry. A $33 million renovation completed in 2015 has expanded and revitalized exhibit spaces for holdings that now exceed 50,000 works spanning 5,000 years of human creativity. 600 Main St., Hartford. 860278-2670; thewadsworth.org

BIRD-WATCHING SPOT

CONNECTICUT RIVER EXPEDITIONS

The area around the lower Connecticut River teems with birdlife, and aboard the RiverQuest you can play paparazzo as you spot and photograph raptors and waterfowl in their nests. In late summer and early fall, captain Mark Yuknat will ensure that you have a front-row seat to the spectacle of nearly half a million tree swallows, swirling in sync, plummeting to earth to roost on a marshy island for the night. Eagle Landing State Park, Little Meadow Road, Haddam. 860-662-0577; ctriverquest.com

BOOKSTORE THE BOOK BARN

Want proof that people still go gaga for the printed word? Head to Niantic, the coastal village at the nucleus of New England’s book trade, where the business that Randi and Maureen White founded in 1988 with three bookshelves and a yard sale couch has exploded to four locations packed with 500,000-plus used volumes. The Main Barn complex, with its cats and free coffee, gardens and picnic tables, is the best place to start—and to linger. 41 W. Main St., Niantic. 860-739-5715; bookbarnniantic.com

COLLECTIBLES SHOP

WILD BILL’S NOSTALGIA

In the 18 years since Bill Ziegler moved his shop to this 45-acre site in Middletown, he’s built a

hippie wonderland as renowned for roadside psychedelia and carnival kitsch as it is for quirky treasures. You can spend hours browsing records and books in the Fun House, or roam among photo ops such as Boathenge (think Stonehenge with motorboats) and the world’s largest Tonka truck. Seasonal flea markets add to the thrill of the hunt. 1003 Newfield St., Middletown. 860635-1226; wildbillsonline.com

GENERAL STORE

OLD WETHERSFIELD COUNTRY STORE

This 2-year-old shop in the heart of Wethersfield takes the hit-and-miss out of finding locally made goodies and gifts. More than 60 in-state vendors’ creations—including such temptations as NoRA cupcakes and Divine Treasures truffles—make this the place to build a Connecticut-themed gift basket. A cheese counter and jars filled with penny candy lend nostalgia, while kombucha on tap provides a new-age twist. 221 Main St., Wethersfield. 860436-3782; owcsct.com

HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE

THAMES RIVER HERITAGE PARK

It’s been envisioned since the 1960s. It was legislated into existence in 1987. And last year, Connecticut’s first state park without boundaries became a reality. The key to linking Fort Trumbull, Fort Griswold, and more than a dozen smaller historic attractions along the Thames River was a water taxi service, which relaunches Memorial Day weekend. Friday through Sunday you can park your car, board a restored Navy vessel, and plot your sightseeing adventure with a stop for lunch or dinner on New London’s historic waterfront. Groton and New London. thamesriverheritagepark.org

MINIATURE GOLF

MATTERHORN MINI GOLF

Yes, that’s yodeling you’ll hear as you putt at this 18-hole course in Canton. And that’s owner Autumn Sutherland in an embroidered Swiss dress, greeting the guests. Thoughtful details like a misting station and shade canopies enhance the experience, but it’s the Swiss landmark–inspired holes—tricky even for pros, yet fun for kids—that will make you want to golf another round after reenergizing with Swiss swirl ice cream. 10 Dyer Cemetery Road, Canton. 860-795-0234; matterhornminigolf.com

PADDLING OUTFITTER DOWNUNDER

Want to kayak to Cockenoe Island for a clambake, sneak up on birds in the Bermuda Lagoon,

or learn to paddleboard with your pup? One-ofa-kind on-the-water experiences don’t require a trek to northern New England. This year-round surf shop with a “no worries, mate” vibe instilled by its New Zealand–born owner is steps from Westport’s train station. Its backyard is the beginner-friendly Saugatuck River; more challenging island-hopping lies downriver in Long Island Sound. A seasonal satellite location on Five Mile River in Rowayton offers rentals, lessons, and guided tours, too. 575 Riverside Ave., Westport. 203-956-6217; downunderct.com

SAILING CRUISE

ARGIA MYSTIC CRUISES

Don’t miss your chance to sail out of the fabled port where more than 600 vessels were built during America’s seafaring age. Aboard the Argia , you’ll motor down the “Missituck” (“wavy river”), as it was christened by native peoples, then the crew will invite you to help hoist the sails. You’re bound for sheltered Fishers Island Sound on a voyage that showcases islands, lighthouses, and local lore. Sunset trips are the most popular of three daily sails: Pack a picnic, and leave every care on shore. 12 Steamboat Wharf, Mystic. 860-536-0416; argiamystic.com

LODGING

DOG-FRIENDLY HOTEL

MADISON BEACH HOTEL

A toy to take home and a snuggly bed are just the start at this inviting hotel, where dog-friendly ground-floor rooms have verandas for easy access to the outdoors. Although the beach is closed to canines Memorial Day through October, you’ll find in your room a map of dog-walk routes. And while you savor locally inspired cuisine on the porch, your pup can join you … and be a locavore, too: The hotel dispenses Vista Vittles, made in Connecticut by young adults with disabilities. 94 W. Wharf Road, Madison. 203-245-1404; madisonbeachhotel.com

INN FOR FOODIES

THE COPPER BEECH INN

It’s natural to mourn the centuries-old, roadside copper beech tree that symbolized this 1889 mansion turned inn until the fall of 2016. But consider its demise your reminder that life’s too short not to indulge. Chef Carlos Cassar helms the kitchen at this Ivoryton classic, where you can design the ideal gourmet getaway. With 22 spacious, distinctly different rooms in three buildings; four indoor and garden-view outdoor dining spaces; seasonally and locally

| 163 MAY | JUNE 2017 BEST OF NEW ENGLAND

Spending the a ernoon at the Florence Griswold Museum means memories for a lifetime. Imagine the lives of artists who created history here, explore galleries to discover your favorite painting, and then create your own art, inspired by the tranquil surroundings. A little shopping and lunch make the day complete.

FlorenceGriswoldMuseum.org for current exhibitions and special events.

Memories Made Here

influenced menus; and an exceptional beverage list, no two stays are identical. 46 Main St., Ivoryton. 860-767-0330; copperbeechinn.com

INN WITH A VIEW

STEAMBOAT INN

Downtown Mystic’s only waterfront inn overlooks the Mystic River and its famed bascule bridge, a work of mechanical genius that has fascinated observers for 95 years. Dockage is available, while rooms with water views and subdued nautical decor enhance the illusion of waking up on a yacht even for guests who only dream of boat ownership. Complimentary bikes make it easy to explore the local byways. Just be back by 5 p.m. for sherry and cookies and a seat on the dock, as late-day light glitters on river ripples. 73 Steamboat Wharf, Mystic. 860-536-8300; steamboatinnmystic.com

LEARNING ESCAPE

THE

SPA AT NORWICH INN

More than a destination for pampering, this Norwich country retreat offers learning opportunities for lasting wellness. Day spa and overnight guests can try beginner-friendly fitness classes like belly dancing and yoga, and discover new techniques for everything from meditation to makeup application. Register for a cooking class with chef Lee Masten, and you’ll take away healthy recipes and a new attitude toward mindful eating. 607 W. Thames St., Norwich. 860-425-3500; thespaatnorwichinn.com

OCEANSIDE B&B

THIMBLE ISLANDS BED & BREAKFAST

As the day winds down, innkeepers Julie and Tony Broom serve their guests wine and cheese on the porch, then trust nature for cinematographic action. It’s almost Disney-perfect, as egrets swoop, placid waters mirror animated clouds, and the sun sinks behind the Thimble Islands, turning the sky violet and peach. While eight of these tiny isles are for sale—for $78 million—the inn’s two water-view rooms (one with a jetted tub) offer privacy for a more down-to-earth price. 28 West Point Road, Branford. 203-927-5167; thimbleislandsbb.com

DINING

BAKERY SIFT

The brainchild of executive chef and co-owner Adam Young, along with wife Ebbie, this French-inspired bakery is dominated by a long white marble counter, where row upon row of edibles are presented like fine works of art. We’re talking pastries, artisanal breads, flaky croissants, and crispy-chewy cookies and macarons, not to mention sandwiches and prepackaged snacks. Then there are the eye-catching desserts, such as the glossy, colorful fruit tarts, that are arguably the pièce de résistance of the pastry chef’s craft. 5 Water St., Mystic. 860245-0541; siftbakeshopmystic.com

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Lyme Street, Old Lyme, CT Exit 70 off of

• 860.434.5542

BARBECUE

BEAR’S SMOKEHOUSE

Serving up Kansas City–style wood-smoked meats at three locations, Bear’s is the go-to for serious ’cue. While it’s best known for brisket and burnt ends, the kielbasa, pulled pork, and slow-smoked chicken are crowd-pleasers, too. And don’t miss the authentic comfort-food sides: smoked BBQ beans, mac and cheese, and cornbread, to name just a few. 25 Front St., Hartford; 2152 Poquonock Ave., Windsor; 454 Ellington Road, South Windsor. 860-785-8772; bearsbbq.com

BURGERS

ENGINE ROOM

The burger choices at this Mystic eatery bring together a delicious mix of Connecticut and Rhode Island products. Exhibit A: The Mushroom Mae, a beef burger piled high with Rhode Island crimini mushrooms and Melinda Mae, a robiola-style cheese from the Mystic Cheese Co. The restaurant itself is a lively destination whose decor hints at the space’s previous life as the Lathrop Marine Engine building. 14 Holmes St., Mystic. 860-415-8117; engineroomct.com

FARM-TO-TABLE DINING COMMUNITY TABLE

While many dishes and the elegant modern decor at this Litchfield County gem summon

up Scandinavia, the ingredients are proudly New England. The frequently changing menu reflects collaborations with nearby farms and fishermen, as well as foraged wild ingredients and house-made honey and bread. 223 Litchfield Tpk. (Rte. 202), Washington. 860-868-9354; communitytablect.com

FINE DINING

LE PETIT CAFÉ

Chef-owner Roy Ip’s intimate French-inspired bistro in Branford is a perennial high scorer in the Zagat restaurant guide, but you’ll need to plan ahead to dine here, as seating for the fourcourse prix fixe dinner is by reservation only. But whether you’re tucking into savory duck cassoulet, hearty steak au poivre, or any of the other options on the menu du jour, every bite will tell you it’s worth it. 225 Montowese St., Branford. 203-483-9791; lepetitcafe.net

ICE CREAM

FERRIS ACRES CREAMERY

Standing in line for a scoop at this venerable Newtown dairy farm, you may well spot the herd of cows in the nearby rolling hills that call Ferris Acres home. The creamery boasts enough playful flavors to tempt anyone’s taste buds (we’re keen on Cow Trax: peanut butter ice cream with caramel swirls and mini chocolate

chips). 144 Sugar St. (Rte. 302), Newtown. 203426-8803; ferrisacrescreamery.com

LOBSTER ROLL

ABBOTT’S LOBSTER IN THE ROUGH

Pairing local seafood with Mystic River views, Abbott’s is a 70-year-old Noank institution. Open seasonally, the casual BYOB restaurant has just about anything a shellfish lover could desire but is best known for its signature hot lobster roll: a quarter pound of warm, succulent lobster drizzled with butter and served on a toasted hamburger bun. Those with heartier appetites are welcome to upsize to the 7-ounce “OMG” version or the full-pound “LOL.” 117 Pearl St., Noank. 860-536-7719; abbottslobster.com

SEAFOOD

THE WHELK

Situated along the Saugatuck River, this chic Westport restaurant-bar starts things off right with unexpected but crave-worthy apps, like deviled eggs with fried oysters and pickled onions, and smoked trout dip with roe and crispy skin. After that, the menu transitions from small plates and a raw bar (local oysters are a specialty) to seasonal specials and larger plates—an approach that encourages and rewards sharing. 575 Westport Ave., Westport. 203-557-0902; thewhelkwestport.com

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CONNECTICUT

RHODE ISLAND

GENERAL STORE

ATTRACTIONS

ART MUSEUM

NATIONAL MUSEUM

OF AMERICAN ILLUSTRATION

As architecturally splendid as its Newport neighbors, Vernon Court isn’t a frozen-in-time mansion attraction. It’s a living, evolving estate that reflects the passions of owners Laurence and Judy Goffman Cutler. Chief among those passions is exhibiting their collection—the largest of its kind in the world—of masterpieces by beloved American illustrators such as Norman Rockwell and Maxfield Parrish. Here, these remarkably relatable commercial images get their due as both art and a chronicle of American culture. The museum has also received accolades, though, for showcasing the creative works of Mother Nature: namely, the champion trees within its Frederick Law Olmsted Park and Arboretum. 492 Bellevue Ave., Newport. 401-851-8949; americanillustration.org

BOOKSTORE

SAVOY BOOKSHOP & CAFÉ

A landmark brick building, a bookstore owner, a billionaire: They’re the pivotal characters in the 2016 origin story of this Westerly haven for bibliophiles. After the Royce Family Foundation funded an exquisite renovation of the decadesclosed Savoy Hotel, Annie Philbrick, owner of Bank Square Books in Mystic, Connecticut, brought this literary hub to life. The only way to coax children out of their own über-adorable reading cabin downstairs is to send them searching for fairy worlds hidden behind teeny doors upstairs. Settle into a leather armchair with a hot drink and baked treat, and your inner child may beg you to stay, too. 10 Canal St., Westerly. 401-213-3901; savoybookshopcafe.com

CITY TOUR

PROVIDENCE RIVER BOAT COMPANY

It’s a swampland-to-shining-city story, and for more than 25 years captain Tom McGinn and his crew have told Providence’s tale on pontoon boat tours. A relaxing, affordable, and efficient way to experience the city, these 45-minute daytime and sunset excursions offer plentiful photo ops as you glide up and down the Providence River. “There’s no one alive who’s ever seen the river cleaner than it is now,” says McGinn, who’ll explain how the river’s aquatic life has rebounded. Book a month in advance for WaterFire nights, when these open-air boats are the best seats in the house. 575 S. Water St., Providence. 401-580-2628; providenceriverboat.com

HACK AND LIVERY GENERAL STORE

Don’t let the horse silhouette emblazoned on the white clapboard barn fool you. Yes, this Hope Valley landmark was a livery stable from 1888 until 1912, but for the past 40 years its floorboards have been trod by savvy shoppers. The sheer variety of colorful wares impresses: Gifts for all ages and interests cram every nook and even dangle from the ceiling, so don’t forget to glance up—that is, if you can pry your eyes away from the rows of glass jars filled with more than 100 kinds of old-school candies. 1006 Main St., Hope Valley. 401-539-7033; hackandliverygeneralstore.com

HISTORICAL EXPERIENCE

HEARTHSIDE HOUSE MUSEUM

AND HANNAWAY BLACKSMITH SHOP

The past is kept playfully, passionately alive in Lincoln at “the house that love built,” a stately fieldstone mansion where volunteers don period garb for themed events and tours. Down the street, observe artisans at work inside the restored blacksmith shop on weekends, or even preregister for a two-hour class. You’ll forge a hook to start, but by the time you begin a second project of your choice, you may find you’re hooked on this traditional art. 677 Great Road, Lincoln. 401-726-0597; hearthsidehouse.org

NATURE EXPERIENCE

CLAY HEAD PRESERVE

This 190-acre Nature Conservancy preserve at the northeast tip of Block Island feels like the end of the world, with landscapes as wildly majestic as any you’ll find on the New England coast. Hike along the near-deserted beach or atop soaring clay bluffs, then wander the serpentine network of inland-reaching spur trails known as the Maze. Come autumn, the dense, undisturbed vegetation provides respite for migrating songbirds. Corn Neck Road, Block Island. 401-331-7110; nature.org

PADDLING OUTFITTER

THE KAYAK CENTRE OF RHODE ISLAND

Tentative first-timer? Pro paddler? The enthusiastic team at this harborside outfitter—open year-round in the heart of timeless Wickford Village—wants everyone to explore the one third of Rhode Island that is liquid regardless of where they fall on the water sports spectrum. In addition to sales and rentals, there’s private or group kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding instruction for all levels, plus expert-led tours as adventurous as navigating coastal waters or as serene as casting gentle ripples on a pond. 9 Phillips St., Wickford. 401-295-4400; kayakcentre.com

LODGING

ADVENTURE LODGING

MAXWELL MAYS COTTAGE

“When I am holding a brush, I own the world. Little by little, I find I can invite you in too,” wrote Providence-born painter Maxwell Mays in an artist’s statement. Eight years after his death, you’re invited to leap into Mays’s favorite landscape à la Mary Poppins. Mays gifted his cherished 300-acre Coventry farm to the Rhode Island Audubon Society, which has made the property’s two-bedroom fieldstone guest cottage available to rent. From your base in the midst of what is now the Maxwell Mays Wildlife Refuge, you can bird-watch, hike, paddle Carr’s Pond in provided canoes, sip coffee on the screened porch, and relish the solitude. 2082 Victory Hwy., Coventry. 401949-5454; asri.org/services

BUDGET B&B

THE HENRY COLLINS INN

In a Play-Doh-blue 19th-century Italianate building that was once a print shop, you’ll find five spacious rooms that are remarkably walletfriendly by Newport standards. Sure, the frilly pillows, busy wallpaper, and tiny TVs scream “Grandma’s house.” But when guests pause to tap out their thoughts on the antique Olivetti typewriter in the lobby, they rave about home-baked breakfast pies and this pet-friendly inn’s out-ofthe-way yet convenient location. 12 Collins St., Newport. 401-848-0708; henrycollinsinn.com

CITY B&B

CHRISTOPHER DODGE HOUSE

Built in 1858, this Providence mansion strikes the right balance for guests who appreciate the individuality of a bed-and-breakfast yet crave privacy. Its elegant architectural details are complemented by handcrafted reproduction furnishings; its sun-splashed dining room is an inviting place to linger over locally roasted Borealis coffee and cooked-to-order selections such as waffles topped with fresh fruit. Upgrade to a “prime” room for more space, a gas fireplace, and midnight-snacking convenience: These bedchambers share a floor with the common room, which is stocked round the clock with home-baked pastries. 11 W. Park St., Providence. 401-351-6111; providence-hotel.com

FAMILY LODGING

NEWPORT BEACH HOTEL & SUITES

When you’re bringing a posse of little ones to the beach, you want a spacious room that’s

166 | NEWENGLAND.COM BEST OF NEW ENGLAND

steps from the sand … and an indoor pool as your rainy-day backup plan. This clean, comfy hotel across the street from Newport’s largest public beach delivers. Choose a one- or twobedroom suite and you’ll have a full kitchen (so you can save on dining out) plus a whirlpool tub to soothe you after a day of wrangling munchkins. 1 Wave Ave., Middletown. 401-846-0310; newportbeachhotelandsuites.com

HISTORIC INN THE OLD COURT BED & BREAKFAST

If you want to wake up in the middle of Providence’s “mile of history,” you have essentially two options: shell out more than $1 million to buy your very own antique home on cobblestoned Benefit Street, or reserve one of the 10 rooms at this back-in-time bed-andbreakfast. Built in 1863 as a rectory, the Old Court features high ceilings and bold wallpapers, Victorian-era furnishings, and marble mantelpieces, all evoking the grace of an era when no one wondered whether an inn had wireless Internet (this one does). Expect indulgent breakfast offerings like Portuguese sweet bread French toast, and snag some warm-fromthe-oven cookies as you head out the door to explore. 144 Benefit St., Providence. 401-7512002; oldcourt.com

INN FOR FOODIES THE BED AND BISTRO

From the team that made Crazy Burger a sensation, this Narragansett inn’s dual identity satisfies travelers who want to dine and rest within a stone’s throw of the beach. Reserve one of six comfy, coastal-themed rooms via phone or Airbnb, and you’ll have a front door key to come and go as you please. You won’t have far to venture for the dinner of your dreams: Thoughtfully composed with options for all diets, from paleo to vegan, the bistro’s menu showcases justcaught and just-picked ingredients in dishes such as gluten-free calamari and fried Baffoni’s chicken atop locally foraged wild mushroom ragout. 83 Narragansett Ave., Narragansett. 401284-3535; thebedandbistro.com

ISLAND INN

HOTEL MANISSES

When merely escaping to an island isn’t enough, the calming aura and polished service at this Block Island favorite can offer that extra little leap away from reality. An intensive interior makeover completed by new owners in 2016 has given the Victorian landmark’s 17 rooms and restaurant fresh, posh appeal. There’s little that past guests will recognize, as the decor has been entirely redone in soothing shades of ivory, gold,

Yes…there is a guide for that! ▶ Wicked Good Eating… ▶ The Getting Lost Bucket List… ▶ Where to Crash… ▶ Getting Lost on the Wild Side… ▶ Immersion Shopping… ▶ Inspiring Stories and… ▶ Interesting Places to Get Lost! All in the Blackstone River Valley in central Massachusetts and northern Rhode Island, the Birthplace of the American Industrial Revolution. Get a free electronic guide at BlackstoneHeritageCorridor.org Or request a printed guide by calling 508-234-4242 or mail@BlackstoneHeritageCorridor.org THE GET LOST GUIDE FREE Blackstone River Valley National Heritage Corridor Exploring the Blackstone River Valley National Heritage Corridor GET LOST in the Blackstone River Valley National Heritage Corridor | 167 MAY | JUNE 2017

RHODE ISLAND

Welcome to Block Island. We

and dove blue. But at least one beloved tradition survives: the bar’s signature flaming coffee. 251 Spring St., Block Island. 401-466-9898; hotelmanisses.com

LUXURY ESCAPE

THE CHANLER AT CLIFF WALK

With rooms and villas evocatively furnished to transport guests to distant eras and places, plus exclusive amenities like butler-drawn aromatherapy baths, in-room spa services, and oceanview fine dining, this Newport mansion turned boutique hotel has always overdelivered. Last year, the Chanler added New England’s only fleet of Tokyobikes to its lineup of enticements. Specifically engineered by a small Japanese startup for leisurely city touring, they’re free for guests who want to pedal to area shops, restaurants, and sights with stylish ease. 117 Memorial Blvd., Newport. 401-847-1300; thechanler.com

DINING

BAKERY NORTH BAKERY

Morning highlights at this Providence hot spot include cinnamon knots and pork belly breakfast sandwiches, along with rich French hot chocolate with house-made marshmallows. At lunch, grab one of the signature hand pies, wrapped in a flaky crust, just $5 a pop. The dinner menu (plus cocktails!) emerges Thursday to Sunday, when hours stretch to 11 p.m. And then there are the cakes, which are works of art done in red velvet, caramel apple, and other flavors. A sure sign of success: The bakery recently opened a satellite location at 2 Kennedy Plaza, open 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily. 70 Battey St., Providence. 401-421-4062; northbakery.com

BREWERY FOOLPROOF BREWING

These Pawtucket beer geniuses first made a splash with the India pale ale Backyahd. Since then, they’ve collaborated with oyster farmers, a chef, and even a confectioner to create beers brimming with local flavor. Among the pitch-perfect results: Shuckolate, Peanut Butter Raincloud, and Federal Hill Ale. 241 Grotto Ave., Pawtucket. 401-7215970; foolproofbrewing.com

BRUNCH NICK’S ON BROADWAY

Chef-owner Derek Wagner grows tomatoes on his roof, makes pesto from local pumpkin seeds, and buys regularly from area farmers and fishermen. It’s a devotion to seasonal, local food that you can taste throughout his brunch menu, where standouts have included a frittata of wilted greens, butternut squash, red onions, and Narragansett Creamery feta, and black beans with eggs, salsa, and avocados served with grilled pesto bread. 500 Broadway, Providence. 401-421-0286; nicksonbroadway.com

Tour the art-filled mansion, enjoy panoramic ocean views, and see the 2017 exhibition Nature Tamed in the Landscape, Gardens and Collections of Rough Point. 680 Bellevue Avenue Newport, RI Purchase tickets at the door, or online at www.NewportRestoration.org Chat with @NPTRestoration A Newport Restoration Foundation Museum Public Transportation: RIPTA trolley #67 Free parking on-site Wheelchair accessible Air-conditioned A different kind of mansion experience

Saved

Tourism Council www.blockislandinfo.com 168 | NEWENGLAND.COM

You A Seat.

Maine 500 All of Maine 501 Southern Coastline/ Greater Portland Area 502 Midcoast 503 Northern Coastline/ Down East 504 Central/Western 505 Northern New Hampshire 600 All of New Hampshire 601 Monadnock/Sunapee 602 Central/Seacoast 603 Lakes 604 White Mountains/ Grand North Vermont 700 All of Vermont 701 Southern 702 Central/Mad River Valley 703 Northern/ Lake Champlain Massachusetts 800 All of Massachusetts 801 North of Boston 802 Greater Boston/ South Shore 803 Cape Cod and the Islands 804 New Bedford/ Fall River Area 805 Central/ Blackstone River Valley 806 Western/ The Berkshires Rhode Island 900 All of Rhode Island 901 Northern/Central/ Providence Area 902 Southern/Coast 903 Block Island Connecticut 1000 All of Connecticut 1001 Northeastern 1002 Central 1003 Northwestern 1004 Southeastern 1005 Southwestern New York 1100 All of New York NewEngland.com/clicks Fill out and mail the attached response card. 1 2 TWO EASY WAYS REQUEST FREE TRAVEL INFORMATION CANADA 703 702 701 VERMONT 801 802 804 803 806 805 MASSACHUSETTS 1003 1002 1001 1005 1004 CONNECTICUT 505 504 502 503 501 MAINE 604 603 601 602 NEW HAMPSHIRE 901 902 • 903 RHODE ISLAND NEW YORK 1100

CHOCOLATE

SWEENOR’S CHOCOLATES

The rich, sweet aroma hits you as soon as you walk in the door, as intoxicating as the visual smorgasbord of all that chocolate: truffles, turtles, filled chocolates, chocolate sea salt caramels, white bark, dark chocolate–covered cranberries, and more. Once you’ve recovered your equilibrium (and made your own selections), you can do a little gift-shopping among Rhode Island–themed novelties like chocolate lobsters and quahogs, beautifully presented in bags or boxes. All chocolate here is made by hand, with no preservatives. 43 Hillside Road, Cranston, 401-942-2720; 21 Charles St., Wakefield, 401-783-4433; sweenorschocolates.com

CLAM SHACK

EVELYN’S DRIVE-IN

On a summer day, taking a seat by the water for perfectly seasoned and fried clam cakes feels like a little bit of heaven. Nowhere is this truer than at Evelyn’s, a postcard New England clam shack that sits on Nanaquaket Pond in Tiverton. Clam strips and clam cakes are the menu’s A-listers, but don’t overlook the other delicious seafood options (try the lobster chow mein). Classic ice cream shakes round out the experience. 2335 Main Road, Tiverton. 401-6243100; evelynsdrivein.com

FARM-TO-TABLE DINING PERSIMMON

A six-time James Beard Award nominee for best chef in the Northeast, Champe Speidel changes his menu based on what’s at the farms. A meal might include New England lamb rillettes, beignets made with local greens, and corn bisque, or a spectacular bowl of homemade pasta with sweet peas and lobster. And the desserts, which have included native strawberries with yogurt and vanilla panna cotta, are not to be missed. 99 Hope St., Providence. 401-4327422; persimmonri.com

ICE CREAM THE SWEET SPOT

It’s an unbeatable combination: creamy ice cream with bright flavors and an equally divine view from a patio with picnic tables right on the water. At this Narragansett scoop shop, you can watch the fishing boats and the Block Island ferry cruise by as you dig into any of the tart, fresh berry flavors or perhaps the chocolate fudge brownie, made with generous hunks of the star ingredient. Feeling adventurous? Order the Dirty Grasshopper, made with coffee, mint, and Oreos. As a bonus, this real-deal ice cream parlor is also a breakfast and pastry shop (try the ice cream–filled cannoli). 256 Great Island Road, Narragansett. 401-782-1646

LOBSTER ROLL WEEKAPAUG INN

The setting—on a rolling lawn alongside Quonochontaug Pond in Westerly—only enhances what is already a first-class lobster roll–eating experience. As you listen to the sounds of the nearby ocean and watch the purple martins flit in and out of their birdhouse, you dive into lobster salad made with Meyer lemon crème fraîche and served on a toasted roll with butter lettuce. Even better, each comes topped with a heap of onion strings. 25 Spray Rock Road, Westerly. 401-322-0301; weekapauginn.com/dining/lawn

PIZZA

NAPOLITANO’S BROOKLYN PIZZA

Everything about Napolitano’s is delightful, from its outgoing owner-chef, Christie Flanagan, a New York sports fan in enemy territory, to its garlic knots, excellent fish and chips, and—most of all—delicious pizza. The thin homemade crust is tender-crispy and cooked to a delectable golden color. The sauce is bright and nonacidic; the mozzarella, flawlessly creamy. The pizza Margherita, topped with sweet tomatoes and julienned basil leaves, never disappoints. 100 East St., Cranston, 401-3837722; 380 Atwells Ave., Providence, 401-2732400; napolitanosbrooklynpizza.com

170 | NEWENGLAND.COM RHODE ISLAND • Outdoor Pool • Fitness Center • Pet-friendly • In-Room Coffee Maker • Meeting Room • Free WIFI • Free Deluxe Hot Breakfast Daily ’

The sterling cascading circles necklace Made by skilled Italian silversmiths, our three-strand chain is highlighted by a drop of sculptural linked circles. Craftsmanship so exquisite you’d expect to pay far more—we’re bringing it to you at an especially affordable price. Ross-Simons Item #848850 Free Shipping . To receive this special offer, use offer code: CIRCLE41 1.800.556.7376 or visit www.ross-simons.com/CIRCLE $89 Plus Free Shipping Italian Sterling Circle Necklace 191⁄2" length with 2" extender. Polished sterling silver pendant about 21⁄2" long. Triple cable chain. Lobster clasp. Shown slightly larger for detail.

Hikers, cyclists, horseback riders, snowmobilers, skiers, and more—the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail offers something for everyone who enjoys being outside in Vermont, all year long. When complete, it will be the longest rail trail in New England!

EXPERIENCE THE TRAIL TODAY

Thirty-three miles of trail are now open, with sections from St. Johnsbury to West Danville and Morristown to Cambridge. Construction of the third section, from Sheldon to Swanton, will begin in Spring 2018. For detailed trail maps, visit lvrt.org.

YOUR HELP MATTERS

To make the entire trail a reality, we need your help. Donations and sponsorships are need to complete the conversion of the railroad into a four-season recreation trail. IF we can raise $3 million (20% of the total project cost), the Vermont Department of Transportation will contribute the remaining 80% through federal funding.

DONATE TODAY AND HELP MAKE THE RAIL TRAIL A REAL TRAIL!

93.2 MILES FROM ST.

THE LONGEST RAIL TRAIL IN NEW ENGLAND

18 HOST COMMUNITIES ALONG THE WAY

FOUR-SEASON USE FOR NON-MOTORIZED ACTIVITIES AND SNOWMOBILE ACCESS

15 Winooski R. LamoilleR. CABOT GREENSBORO WOLCOTT MORRISTOWN JOHNSON HYDE PARK CAMBRIDGE SWANTON SHELDON HIGHGATE FLETCHER FAIRFIELD ENOSBURG BAKERSFIELD WALDEN STANNARD ST. JOHNSBURY HARDWICK DANVILLE LENGTH: 11.6 Miles SWANTON to SHELDON STATUS: Construction starts Spring 2018 LENGTH: 18.4 Miles SHELDON to CAMBRIDGE STATUS: Planned for Phase 2 LENGTH: 19.5 Miles MORRISTOWN to GREENSBORO STATUS: Planned for Phase 2 LENGTH: 10.9 Miles GREENSBORO to DANVILLE STATUS: Planned for Phase 3 LENGTH: 17.4 Miles CAMBRIDGE to MORRISTOWN STATUS: Open LENGTH: 15.4 Miles DANVILLE to ST. JOHNSBURY STATUS: Open

JOHNSBURY

TO SWANTON

NEW FOR 2017

THE INN AT ROUND BARN ANNOUNCES THE FIRST ANNUAL CHEESEMAKERS DINNER

Saturday, July 15, 2017 6 pm, Waitsfield, VT

TICKETS: $75, cash bar. Limited availability! Buy your ticket before July 5th. Meet many of Vermont's finest cheese, produce, and meat producers.

Tickets include:

Cocktail reception in the beautiful Inn flower gardens featuring local wines, spirits, and beers paired with small bites made from the very best local Vermont ingredients. Multi-course dinner in the Historic Joslin Round Barn showcasing the best cheese, produce, and meat that Vermont has to offer— a spectacular Vermont experience not to be missed!

The best walk-in tub just got better with breakthrough technology! Presenting the all new Safe Step Walk-In Tub featuring MicroSoothe.® An air system so revolutionary, it oxygenates, softens and exfoliates skin, turning your bath into a spa-like experience. Constructed and built right here in America for safety and durability from the ground up, and with more standard features than any other tub.

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The Pelatiah Leete House is one of the earliest surviving dwellings built in Guilford, CT in the early 18th century, by Pelatiah Leete, the grandson of Guilford founder, and Connecticut governor, William Leete. It is one of only a handful of properties in Guilford that is included on the National Register of Historic Places. In 1781, during the American Revolution, the Battle of Leetes Island was fought across the road from the house and its surviving 1705 barn, and Simeon Leete, who lived in the house at that time with his wife and three small children, was mortally wounded near the conclusion of the battle. He was brought back to the house, where he died, at age 28, the following day. His gravestone is around the corner from the house, on land owned by the Leete family since 1661, and an annual celebration of his life is held every June on the Sunday nearest June 19, the anniversary of his death date. The Sixth Connecticut Regiment of the Continental Line performs musket drills and live ﬁring at the event, which draws numerous neighbors and townspeople.

AUTHENTIC COLOURS crafted by masters of 18th and 19th Century color ﬁdelity - ﬁfth generation paintmakers. The Old Village paint craftsmen create the authentic colors that simply cannot be matched by a mass production process or by guessing and mixing. Old Village Paints are of superb quality, using natural earth pigments from around the world, as well as the heartland of America.

P.O. Box 130

• Perkiomenville PA 18074

Email: info@old-village.com

Tel: 215-234-4600 • Fax: 215-234-4601

Toll Free: 800-498-7687 | www.old-village.com

Made in America Since 1816

Old Village Paints, Ltd.

To advertise please call Steve Hall at 603-933-0426

EnergAire continuously purifies up to 4,000 cubic feet (a large room) of air and makes it breathable and invigorating. Restores natural ion balance to unhealthy environments caused by industrial pollution, automobile exhaust, central airconditioning, and heating, smoke, dust, pollen, animal fur. . . removes microscopic pollution particles not removed by any other method of air purification. EnergAire was rated Number One for speed of removal of cigarette smoke by the leading U.S. consumer protection magazine. It has no noisy fan, no costly filter, and requires no maintenance. Uses less than 2 watts. 9" high. 3" diameter. Weighs less than 1 pound. $59.95

RODAR is the super-powerful professional ultrasonic pest repeller with up to 60 or more times the power of other devices — and power is what makes RODAR so effective. RODAR ultrasound equals a jet engine — noise unbearable to pests but at frequencies humans and pets cannot hear. RODAR units are completely safe. RODAR drives pests out and keeps them from getting in. Handsome simulated walnut cabinet 5-5/8 high. Weight 1-1/2 pounds. Uses less than 5 watts. $89.95

90-day money-back guarantee — 12-month warranty.To order: Send cost for unit(s) plus $10.00 each for shipping and handling (in Mass. add 6.25% tax) by check, money order, MasterCard, Visa, or Discover number and expiration date to Micron Corp.

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Issue:

Please check your proof carefully. Approval must be returned by _______________________ Publisher is not responsible for errors once proof has been signed— or if not returned by the above date. Please note that color proof/pdf is to show color break only. Colors do not accurately represent actual printed advertisement as it will appear in the publication.

MAY | JUNE 2017 NEW ENGLAND’S marketplace CUPOLAS WEATHERVANES CAPE COD CUPOLA CO., INC. Visit our website at: www.capecodcupola.com to view quality cupolas in wood and in Azek (PVC) as well as uniquely handcrafted copper weathervanes and finials. Colorful catalog $5.00 78 State Road, Dept. Y17 North Dartmouth, MA 02747 Phone: 508-994-2119 Fax: 508-997-2511 ALL STEEL FOR HOMES, OFFICES, CHURCHES, INSTITUTIONS BUY FACTORY DIRECT & SAVE EASY TO ASSEMBLE MANY STYLES & COLORS BAKED ENAMEL FINISH RADIATOR ENCLOSURES RADIATOR ENCLOSURES monarchcovers.com (201) 828-5716 160 Airmount Rd., Dept. Y0517, Mahwah, NJ 07430 MONARCH FROM THIS T O TH IS

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If we have made any

Season Has

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Yankee Magazine has learned that some of our subscribers have received deceptive renewal notifications from several unauthorized companies.

Only Yankee Magazine is authorized to issue renewal notifications for our subscriptions. The return address on the envelope provided with your subscription renewal will read: P.O. Box 422447 Palm Coast, FL 32142-2447

Yankee Magazine DOES NOT contract with third parties to solicit or receive subscription payments. If you receive a renewal and are unsure of its authenticity, please call our subscriber services department: 800-288-4284

YANKEE classifieds

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VACATION RENTALS

Choose from 5 self-catered southern Vermont historic homes, including Rudyard Kipling’s Naulakha, all authentically restored, fully equipped, comfortably furnished, available year-round. www.land marktrustusa.org, or call 802-254-6868.

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| 183 MAY | JUNE 2017 home & GARDEN RESOURCE For more information: www.NewEngland.com/clicks. Shuttercraft of Madison, CT Traditional Wood Shutters Interior & Exterior Real Wood Shutters HARD-TO-FIND Traditional Moveable Louvers All Sizes ~ Full Painting Family Owned ~ Made in USA 203-245-2608 Shuttercraft.com Longing for Comfort? Ergonomic Seats Made to Fit Your Body

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The Day Our Ship Came In

Sixty years ago, the Mayflower II turned back the clock to New England’s Pilgrim era.

o the faithful few keeping watch on the Plymouth, Massachusetts, waterfront on June 13, 1957, the first sighting of the Mayflower II was of “a ghostly shape emerging out of the early morning haze,” as a local reporter put it. It was a fitting debut for the replica of a ship that Plymouth hadn’t seen for more than three centuries. Word soon spread, and by the time the Mayflower II which had drawn a flotilla of some 300 local craft—was moored in the harbor, more than 25,000 thronged the shore. Hundreds of journalists were on hand, too, to record the end of the ship’s 54-day, 5,500-mile trip from England; Jack Chase of Boston’s Channel 4 could be seen reporting in Pilgrim garb. Vice President Richard Nixon and Senator John F. Kennedy would join in the two weeks of celebrations, as would members of New England’s Native American tribes. It was a triumph for a ship that some said would never

make it. A gift to the U.S. from England, the Mayflower replica was built using 17th-century techniques and set sail without the benefit of a trial run. It almost capsized on launch, and its rolling and pitching in waves—“like a wild little bronco,” in the words of Captain Alan Villiers—tested even the most seasoned of its 33-member crew. In the voyage’s final days, the ship had to furl all its sails to ride out a howling gale that drove it 70 miles off course.

Even after its successful landing and transition into a popular floating museum, however, the challenges weren’t over. Last November, its seaworthiness in peril, the aging ship was towed to Connecticut’s Mystic Seaport for a 30-month rebuild. Part of the goal is to have it ready for the 400th anniversary of the original Plymouth landing, in 2020—when faithful fans might see the Mayflower II, sails flying, emerge from the haze of history once again. —Jenn Johnson

PETER J. CARROLL/AP IMAGES 184 | NEWENGLAND.COM Timeless New England | CLASSIC IMAGES OF OUR REGION

The scene in Plymouth Harbor on June 13, 1957.

There’s a world-famous place only 90 minutes north of New York City that’s long been a vacationland for families, business moguls, actors, and musicians. Visit the historic site of the 1969 Woodstock Music and Art Fair. Or cast a line in search of the legendary and elusive two-headed trout. There are outdoor concerts, farm to table eateries, wineries, breweries and distilleries. Or you can just chill in a vacation rental, B&B, inn, campground or resort. A country getaway full of history, a little mystery, and summertime fun. 1.800.882.CATS SullivanCatskills.com #SullivanCatskills ® I LOVE NEW YORK logo is a registered trademark/service mark of the NYS Dept. of Economic Development, used with permission.

THE BEST-KEPT SECRETS FROM THE EDITORS OF MAGAZINE Join us for the ultimate insider’s tour of New England. Find Weekends with Yankee on your local public television stations (check local listings) FOR MORE INFORMATION GO TO WEEKENDSWITHYANKEE.COM BROUGHT TO YOU BY THE GOOD PEOPLE AT FUNDED BY: NO W A I R I N G O N P U B L I C T E L E V I S ION

Yankee Magazine May/June 2017

70

Slow Boat on a Big Lake

The Audacity of Liz Putnam

A Place to Get Away

The Island Doctor

Rolling on the Mississippi

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DEAR YANKEE, CONTRIBUTORS & POETRY BY D.A.W.

INSIDE YANKEE

LIFE IN THE KINGDOM

FIRST LIGHT

TIMELESS

ADVERTISING RESOURCES

New England.com

PREVIEW

INSIDE YANKEE ’S JUNE ISSUE

KIM KNOX BECKIUS

LITTLE OUTDOOR GIANTS

WAYNE CURTIS

SANDY RIVLIN

J.P. SCHMELZER

MICHAEL SEAMANS

The Story Continues

Mary Weston

Dover, New Hampshire

SPRING AWAKENING

Over the Long Run

A Traveler’s Best Friend

The Bobolink Dilemma

The Promise

A Most Unusual Gift of Love

A Most Unusual Gift of Love

Good Well Hunting

The Retirement of a Lifetime

First LIGHT

A ‘Very Impressive Rock’

If you’ve ever wondered about the power of glaciers, pay a visit to the Madison Boulder.

Lady Captain’s Ring

“I Want to Wear My Ring All the Time”

Cross Jewelers

Seal of Honor

To Stretch a Shoestring

WE WERE RIGHT ALL ALONG

EMILY DICKINSON

GLEAW |

Lobsterman’s Wife’s Maine Sea Glass Bracelet

How to Give a Great Speech

In honor of college commencement season, we ask communication guru Jay Heinrichs for help channeling our inner Cicero.

Tap into the Classics

Tell ’Em a Tale (but Not a Joke)

Ditch the Index Cards

Get to the Point

Wrap Up Quickly

Know Your Audience

Embrace Those Butterflies

a world of treasures right here in New England

THE SITTING SHED, Brewster

THE HE-BUILT SHE-SHED

THE PASSION SHED East Sandwich

THE SOCIAL SHED Brewster

WILL MOSES

SHE-SOURCES

‘Old Gray Ancients’

The venerable barns of Connecticut come alive in Stephen Ray’s vibrant artwork.

The Most Famous House in New Hampshire

Mint-Green Teal Maine Tourmaline

Wild Blueberry Stone

Food | TECHNIQUES

GRILLING 101 with

Andy Husbands

LET’S START WITH THE BASICS:

GRILLED ZUCCHINI SALAD WITH ALMONDS, HERBS, AND LEMON

SLOW-GRILLED CHICKEN

FOR THE CHICKEN

SETTING UP THE GRILL

HIGH-HEAT DIRECT GRILLING (ZUCCHINI SALAD)

DIRECT GRILLING (CHICKEN THIGHS)

TWO-ZONE (HIGHER HEAT/LOWER HEAT) GRILLING (RIBS)

LOW-AND-SLOW BARBECUE (BRISKET)