YourLuxury Africa June 2023 issue

Men of the Cloth

IW3716 THE REFERENCE.

This Portugieser Chronograph builds on the legacy of IWC’s marine deck observation watches. It is powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355 calibre, engineered for perfor mance, robustness, and durability. The vertical arrangement of the subdials enhances readability. Because at IWC, function always comes first.

IWC PORTUGIESER CHRONOGRAPH

1. MY TOP PICKS

THE YOURLUXURY TEAM WENT WATCH AND JEWEL SPOTTING at Watches and Wonders 2023, and we’re excited to bring you all the novelties, trends, conversations – and even the unexpected pieces – to come out of the incredibly prestigious fair. From gem-set innovations to bold dials, coloured ceramics to playful designs (think Kermit the Frog!), writer Debbie Hathway shares her experiences from Geneva.

Since we were feeling inspired, we also did some window shopping for Father’s Day gifts to spoil the special man in your life – be it your dad, son, partner or friend – from high-end accessories to investment timepieces and fabulous scents, or perhaps even a bespoke suit. “A visit to a tailor can be the ultimate transcendental ode to the quiet luxury trend,” says writer Kimberley Schoeman, who interviewed fours tailors redefining the fit, so to speak.

Whatever your idea of quiet luxury is – that bespoke suit or an escape to the bush – there is a heightened awareness and a mindfulness filtering through. We believe it’s a lifestyle choice rather than a trend, and hopefully it’s here to stay.

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FROM THE EDITOR

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EDITORIAL: ACTING & BEAUTY EDITOR Ingrid Wood ingrid@yourluxury.africa

COPY EDITOR Tamlyn Cumings PROOFREADER Leigh Herringer leigh@yourluxury.africa

ADVERTISING & MARKETING: MD Yvonne Shaff +27 (82) 903 5641 I yvonne@yourluxury.africa

ACCOUNT MANAGER: NATIONAL Gina van de Wall I gina@yourluxury.africa

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Jacquie Myburgh Chemaly jacquie@yourluxury.africa

1053, Sea Point 8060, Cape Town. All rights reserved. Whereas precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of information, neither the editor nor inaccuracies, injury or damages that may arise. The opinions expressed in the articles may not reflect those of the publisher. All prices correct at time of going to print.

yourluxury.africa

Louis Vuitton Voyager Skeleton Watch, louisvuitton.com

Cartier High Jewellery Collection 0.92 carat grey-violet diamond Ondule ring, cartier.com

S by Salanitro haute couture backgammon set with black diamonds and blue sapphires,

Chopard Red Carpet Collection butterfly ring, bhhboutique.co.za

Bulgari Man Rain Essence EDP, selected beauty retail outlets

PHOTOGRAPHY Roelene Prinsloo LOCATION KARE Design Johannesburg

Cape Island Black Gold room & linen fragrance, capeisland.co.za

CULTURE CLUB

The National Arts Festival (which celebrates its 50th anniversary in 2024) will once again take visitors to Makhanda, aka Grahamstown, on a journey into a multi-genre feast of dance, theatre, poetry, music and art. Celebrating South Africa’s most dynamic and new creative talent, highlights include the Jazzart triple bill, Mamela Nyamza’s new work, Hatched Ensemble and music by acclaimed composer Msaki, who’s up for the Standard Bank Young Artists Award 2023. From 22 June – 2 July.

nationalartsfestival.co.za

IDENTITY/POLITICS

From 15 June to 17 August, Southern Guild gallery in Cape Town will host ZANELE MUHOLI, the largest ever exhibition of photographic and sculptural work by the prolific visual activist of the same name. There are three great reasons not to miss this incisive show: It will be an unveiling of the largest number of Zanele’s truly monumental bronze sculptures to date, it will reveal never-before-seen photography from the artist’s Somnyama Ngonyama (Hail the Dark Lioness) series of prints, and the body of work will ask important, probing questions related to the positioning and treatment of LGBTQI+ people, women and the female body in South Africa. “The work that I have been doing is to do with visibility,” Zanele says. “This is no longer about me. It is now about every female body that ever existed in my family, that never even imagined these dreams were possible.” Throughout the show, Zanele’s body is a canvas on display, making powerful statements about the visibility and stigmatisation of feminine sexual organs, the visual activist’s relationship to their Catholic upbringing and the one place that we all call home: The womb. Add this to your calendar now.

southernguild.co.za

AFRICA, YOUR TIME IS ALWAYS

From 23 June to 22 October, the Brooklyn Museum in New York City is hosting a travelling exhibition organised by the V&A Museum in London, titled Africa Fashion. The exhibition examines the explosion of creativity that accompanied the independence from colonial rule that many African countries (such as Ghana and Nigeria) experienced as they threw off the shackles of imperial occupation from the 1950s onwards. If you happen to be in the city that never sleeps during these months, expect your senses to be overwhelmed by a dazzling display of over 180 individual works of clothing, photography, jewellery, textiles, literature, music and film. This will be the first time much of this work has been displayed in North America. Arranged and organised by Ernestine White-Mifetu and Annissa Malvoisin, this important exhibition takes place in a borough that’s home to many communities and families of African and diasporic origin.

brooklynmuseum.org/exhibitions/africa_fashion

yourluxury.africa

JOIN US ONLINE

IF YOU’VE BEEN ENJOYING THE PRINT editions of YourLuxury Africa, head to our website at yourluxury.africa

There, we share news and views about the ultimate luxury lifestyle with carefully curated content from all over Africa and beyond. From food to fashion, wine to watches, wheels to wings and fragrance to fine art – it’s all there in one exquisite online space. And don’t forget to follow us on Instagram and Facebook too.

MEET OUR CONTRIBUTORS

DEBBIE HATHWAY

According to Debbie, a great interview that leads to an insightful story really makes her tick. She’s never really off duty and finds inspiration in nature, when walking her dogs, and joie de vivre through dancing and music. “For me, time is luxury – pure indulgence in my favourite things – and it costs absolutely nothing.” See: p36

SONY THOMAS

Sony is a lifestyle journalist with more than two decades of experience and a fascination for mechanical intricacies that connect the realms of cars and watches. “Anything that lets me escape from the ordinary and allows me to indulge in exceptional experiences, is luxury. It elevates, inspires, and empowers”. See: p12 and p44

ROELENE PRINSLOO

Roelene has been a photographer for 25 years. “Everything about it, from meeting new people to shooting delicious food, gives me pure joy,” she says. Her top tip is lighting – the right lighting gives the image life. “To me, luxury is fine dining with good wine and sharing it with friends. It’s priceless.” See: p30

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER SUPER RACING

If your dad has always wanted to own a Speedmaster but was put off by its manual winding system, he will most likely appreciate the new Speedmaster Super Racing with its Co-Axial Master Chronometer 9920 automatic movement. It is also the first Omega watch to feature the Spirate system which uses a patent-pending spiral that helps in ultra-fine rate adjustments. It looks different from other Speedmaster variants thanks to its honeycomb pattern dial and black ceramic bezel ring with the iconic tachymeter scale in yellow grand feu enamel. omegawatches.com

TIMEPIECES TO GIFT

FATHER’S DAY IS THE PERFECT TIME TO SPOIL THE MAN IN YOUR LIFE WITH A WATCH

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS MIDNIGHT PLANÉTARIUM

If your budget is generous and you want a unique conversation starter, the Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planétarium is the perfect choice. This stunning timepiece scales the heavens down to the confines of a 44mm case made from 18kt rose gold. The watch's dial showcases a representation of the movement of six planets – Earth, Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn – as they orbit around the sun, displaying their positions at any moment. Time is indicated by a shooting star that completes a circle of the dial’s outer edge in 24 hours. vancleefarpels.com

RADO DIASTAR ORIGINAL 60-YEAR ANNIVERSARY EDITION

Lightweight, minimalist and uncomplicated, this commemorative edition crafted in Ceramos – a high-tech mixture of ceramic and metal alloy – is a tribute to the 1962 Diastar. Made in collaboration with Swiss designer Alfredo Häberli, the watch has a radial-brushed Ceramos coiffe with polished angles set over a monochrome stainless-steel case and a sapphire crystal with hexagonal facets. It’s powered by the R764 automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve, so it will still be running if your dad leaves it in the drawer for a few days. rado.com

CONSIDERING ALL THE TIME he’s invested in you, presenting your father figure or the special man in your life with a watch is a great way to express how much you appreciate him. It’s also the kind of gift that can be perfectly matched to his personality and interests.

BREGUET QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL 7327

For a man who would love a classic dress watch that is slim, made of precious metal and complete with a Clous de Paris hobnail pattern dial and a perpetual calendar complication, look no further than Breguet’s Quantième Perpétuel 7327. A tribute to Abraham Louis Breguet’s perpétuelle watches from the 1780s, this exquisite timepiece is powered by the 502.3.P movement, which at just 4.5 mm thick is one of Breguet’s thinnest. The 39mm case is available in 18kt white or rose gold with the dial displaying the day, date, retrograde month, leap year and moon phases. bregeut.com

yourluxury.africa

WORDS SONY THOMAS

EVILA I N T I ME

WHAT’S IN A NAME? Grand Seiko usually favours Japanese names for their watches, but two standout pieces from this year’s Watches and Wonders Geneva tend towards the functional rather than the traditional.

The name of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph is derived from four characteristics: the frequency rate of 10 beats per second (Ten), followed by the “T” representing a three-day power reserve, the “A” denoting the incorporation of an automatic movement, and the “graph” referencing the type of complication.

“Surprisingly, it is actually Grand Seiko’s first automatic mechanical chronograph (powered by the new Caliber 9SC5), despite being part of Seiko Watch Corporation which has a history of timing major events [beginning with the 18th Olympiad, Tokyo in 1964],” says Grand Seiko brand manager Rob Brook.

He explains Grand Seiko wanted to create a high-beat chronograph because it is accurate to a small fraction of a second, but to do that, they had to make a movement that would generate enough power to run the chronograph without compromising the watch’s precision. The Tentagraph achieves that with a power reserve of 72 hours, making it the longest-running 10-beat chronograph on the market, accurate to +five, -three seconds per day. “This watch is very efficient, functional and smart. The design adheres to the brand’s guiding principles, conveying the essence of the beautiful, Japanese aesthetic, which focuses on the play of light and shadow while incorporating the modern technology and style synonymous with the Evolution 9 collection,” Rob says.

DESIGN THAT REFLECTS THE ETERNAL NATURE OF TIME

By contrast, the Grand Seiko “Majestic White Birch” from the Masterpiece Collection, a Hand-engraved Manual-winding Spring Drive Limited Edition SBGZ009 in platinum 950 showcases the immense talents of the artisans from the Micro Artist Studio and the influence of their natural environment. Its design is inspired by snowfall on the white birch trees at the foot of the North Yatsugatake Mountains in the Shinshu region. The dial pattern is meticulously hand engraved with the familiar Shinshu white birch pattern, but this time slightly different in tone and with a more metallic texture. First polished using the Zaratsu method, the case is hand engraved with long individual grooves referencing the trees and echoing the dial pattern. While the process might seem counterintuitive, Brooks explains that the polishing achieves a better result. The manual-winding hand-assembled Spring Drive Calibre 9R02 has an 84-hour power reserve and maintains onesecond-per-day accuracy. Limited to 50 pieces globally, these dressy, elegant watches will be available at Grand Seiko Boutiques in June 2023. ■

SUPREME CRAFTSMANSHIP AND ABSOLUTE PRECISION ARE AT THE HEART OF GRAND SEIKO TIMEPIECES

Byredo has always brought to life a series of memories through niche fragrance collections. Byredo Bal d’Afrique (R4 250 for 100ml EDP) is inspired by 1920s Paris, as well as African culture, art, music and dance. As founder and creative director of Byredo, Ben Gorham explains, his father lived and travelled in Africa for 15 years. “His diaries gave life to my imagination of the experience of arriving in Africa. Bal d’Afrique reflects that; it’s an imaginary journey as well as a complete celebration of how I see African culture and its influence.” skins.co.za

Dolce&Gabbana Light Blue Summer Vibes Eau de Toilette Pour Homme (R2 365 for 125ml), is a delicious blend of Sicilian lemon, cypress and amberwood – ideal for lifting your spirits during the southern hemisphere’s colder months. And to add that extra luxurious touch, the fragrance is encased in a magnificent majolica print. The limited edition is available at selected beauty retail outlets.

Issey Miyake’s L’Eau D’Issey Pour Homme Vétiver (R1 780 for 100ml) is a delightfully intense EDT with powerful notes of woody vetiver, spicy ginger and warm clary sage. It’s vegan-certified (93 percent of the ingredients are of natural origin) and features a plastic-free cap made from wood sourced in sustainably managed forests. Selected beauty retail outlets.

Fine perfumery creator Clive Christian uses only the best ingredients for pure perfume pleasure. Originally created in 1925 and famously worn by Winston Churchill, Town & Country (R9 545 for 50ml EDP) has been completely reimagined to capture the vibrancy of London and the fresh beauty of the British countryside. It’s a delicious blend of clary sage, sophisticated sandalwood and precious grey amber for warmth and depth. skins.co.za

SCENTS TO SAVOUR

UPGRADE YOUR FRAGRANCE COLLECTION WITH THESE NEW MASCULINE SCENTS

COMPILED BY INGRID WOOD

IT’S EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO IMAGINE HOW A PIECE OF IMPOSSIBLY PERFECT HIGH JEWELLERY IS HAND CRAFTED, UNTIL YOU WITNESS THE MAGIC YOURSELF WORDS JACQUIE MYBURGH CHEMALY

The Diary of a Diamond

WHEN YOU STAND OUTSIDE THE GRAFF BOUTIQUE on New Bond Street in London, the boutique windows are simply beyond dazzling. You see nothing but diamonds when you look at the exquisite array of high jewellery on display. That’s really the point for one of the world’s leading jewellery brands that has built its name around acquiring and crafting pieces of jewellery with some of the largest and most beautiful diamonds in the world.

But I never realised that the focus on the diamonds goes even further – that all Graff creations are designed in such a way that all you see are the stones and almost none of the architecture that holds them together. Take a look at the iconic Graff tribal necklaces: these are a mesmerising collection of perfectly sized and graded diamonds – often including coloured gems – that seem to hang together as if by magnetic force. But, as I was to discover, there is mastery behind this magic.

Graff high jewellery is crafted not too far away from the maison’s New Bond Street boutique in an underground workshop somewhere in Mayfair, at an address that I’m not at liberty to share. It’s all very James Bond as you enter the premises through a very discreet black door and descend the circular staircase into a relatively small and functional underground jewellery workshop – if you compare it to the sheer grandeur that is produced there.

Sam Sherry is the man in charge of the London workshop. A gentle, unassuming artist in chinos and a sweater, he takes me on the guided tour and through the stages of production. From initial design to the finished piece, the Graff jewellery production process combines traditional handcraft by top goldsmiths and gem

setters who give life to the designs with state-of-the-art technology that makes the impossible, possible.

What we don’t get to see is the first step in the creative process that happens when Laurence Graff, founder of Graff, sources the diamonds and head jewellery designer, Anné-Eva Geffroy, comes up with the grand designs, creating an impeccably detailed two-dimensional representation of how the final piece will look. The handpainted gouache image from the design team communicates the beauty, rhythm and feel to the craftsmen who will be tasked with bringing the design to life. The diamonds are then meticulously selected to complement the design. Each stone’s shape, cut and size, as well as the colour and clarity, has to work with the others to create the final dazzling effect.

The diamonds arrive in the Graff workshop – always an exciting moment, says Sam, as each and every design is different. The next step is an intriguing mix of the old and new where traditional gold-smithing techniques are used together with stateof-the-art machinery. At one worktable a technician is using a high-tech engraver to etch the Graff logo onto a diamond. Another is engraving wedding rings for a happy couple. Graff, engraving wedding rings? I’d never imagined there being the opportunity to add a personal touch when you’re talking high jewellery.

On to the jewellery benches where the goldsmiths create the mounts – the unique settings that hold each diamond securely in place – in white gold, according to the precise requirements of the design. The Graff magic means these mounts must remain as discreet as possible, allowing the diamonds to take centre stage. Once

the mount is complete, it is pre-polished in the polishing workshop. Having been buffed, the metal structure is handed over to the diamond setter who secures it in white gold claws.

And if you’ve ever wondered why some diamonds seem to have extra sparkle, the answer lies in the articulations that link the diamond mountings. It’s this precise engineering that allows the diamonds, once set, to seemingly move and capture maximum play of light in order to sparkle when worn. Each necklace is fitted on a lifelike bust to ensure that the piece can move and fit the shape of the wearer’s neck to perfection. Sam says that at Graff, the feel of the jewellery on the wearer’s skin is as important as the look. And it is legend in this workshop that the back of a high jewellery piece is as beautiful as the front is.

There’s a lot of Graff branding too. Every diamond that is over 40 points is engraved with the Graff logo and each piece of gold carries this logo as well as the serial number. This impeccable attention to detail made a lot of sense recently, when a precious Graff bracelet was located on a beach in Dubai and could be reunited with its owner.

If I’m sounding like I was a little over-awed by my Graff workshop experience, it’s because I really was. At one stage of the tour, I was handed two stunning pieces of a diamond-crusted bangle that were about to be joined together. The literal brilliance of the sparkling beauty in my hands actually brought tears to my eyes, and I had to look away before completely embarrassing myself. It’s not the response I had expected, but then I’d never believed in magic. ■

INSIDE MY...

THE HEAD OF MARKETING AND PR at the renowned Delaire Graff Estate in Stellenbosch, Damien Joubert-Winn has a finger in every pie, overseeing all media aspects of the diverse luxury brand. But the Scotsman, who lives in the Cape with his partner and daughter, doesn’t take himself too seriously. When asked to describe himself in a few sentences, he responds laughing with, “I’m a passenger on a penny farthing on the journey to enlightenment.”

MEDLEY OF MALA BEADS

MARKETING GURU DAMIEN JOUBERT-WINN SHARES HIS JOURNEY OF ENLIGHTENMENT AND HIS PASSION FOR MINDFULNESS AND MALA BEADS

While he may jest, Damien is incredibly serious about talking unashamedly and openly about mental health. He’s suffered from depression for many years, caused in part by work and stress. “[I put] so much pressure on myself to make sure that everything is done to beyond perfection,” he says.

It was a more recent bout of depression that made him re-evaluate things and make some changes. “Moving to South Africa, trying to settle in and then the arrival of Covid putting incredible pressure on the wine industry,” notes Damien, were all triggers.

It started with a friend inviting him to a yoga retreat in 2019. Here he experienced forms of breathwork, yoga and meditation, and he immediately felt at home. Damien has been an ardent yogi ever since, striving to understand the deeper practice of yoga.

“I also started meditation at around this time using the Synctuition app. It offers a tutored meditation,” he says. “For half an hour I would sit on a specific yoga mat, burn Palo Santo – a sacred wood incense – and stick my earphones in.” Damien then started researching and using meditation or mala beads which, he adds, he is now covered in.

Each loop contains 108 beads which represent various assigned recitations to be worked through during meditation. The tassel symbolises strands of chaos coming into order. As Damien explains, “I loved the idea that we repeat some gratitudes or something we would like to manifest, which could be love or good intentions.”

He was first gifted a set of beads before starting to make them for himself and his friends. But ever the perfectionist, the materiality, belief and meaning behind all his mala beads are fundamental. He chooses stones that are relevant and that have certain properties.

“The point of wearing stones and crystals is that whether they do what you think they are going to do or not – and I do believe they work – I would rather have something harmless around me that could help, than not have it at all. It’s also about your mentality creating that reality.”

Sourcing them is difficult though as he endeavors to use the most natural and sustainable raw materials, and those with the least human intervention. He says, “The precious stones need to have good intentions behind the whole process which includes sourcing, producing and purchasing them, before making them into something.”

He also includes several rare rudraksha –the dried stones from a stone fruit which are believed to have sacred values – in his mala beads. “In terms of the thread, I first used silk until I found out that millions of silkworms are killed in the process, then I used cotton which came under fire due to unsustainable practices in cotton fields. So, I have really had to go into depth to find a suitable thread,” he says. ■

MALACHITE is related to medical health and encourages detoxification, drawing things out and protecting against external toxins and free radicals.”

“Many people use ROSE QUARTZ as it’s an incredible stone, recognised for its emotional support and healing. I wear it as a self-healing stone that promotes emotional healing.”

OBSIDIAN is not technically a gemstone – it’s actually a naturally occurring volcanic glass, but powerful, nevertheless. It draws out stress and tension, clearing out ancient trauma and encouraging personal growth.”

“AMETHYST is a stone my grandfather used to wear, so it has a personal connection. But it also has protective, spiritual and meditative properties which improve my practice. It calms my mind and spirit and helps me get into a space where everything drops away and I can connect with my inner self.”

WORDS JO BUITENDACH PHOTOGRAPHY ALEX MCKAY

Damien has accumulated a collection of gemstone mala beads that he believes have helped in his mindfulness practices. Here are some of his thoughts on the materials used…

Victoria Wharf Shopping Centre, Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, Cape Town 021 418 4515 Hyde Park Corner, Johannesburg | 011 325 4477

PANERAI CEO JEAN-MARC PONTROUÉ HAS ALWAYS BEEN AN INNOVATOR. IT WAS NO SURPRISE THEN, WHEN PANERAI RELAUNCHED A TOTALLY UNBRANDED WATCH FACE THIS YEAR – AND IT’S A HIT

WORDS JACQUIE MYBURGH CHEMALY

ON PANERAI’S UNIQUE RETAIL MODEL: Today we have more than 200 Panerai boutiques around the world, including one in Johannesburg. We believe that customers want an immersion in our world, and when they believe in a brand, they want a wide range to choose from.

ON PANERAI’S SIGNATURE GOOD LOOKS AND TRENDSETTING STYLE: For many years, Panerai has been referred to as a “Laboratorio di Idee” – an ideas workshop. In 1997, Panerai pioneered the idea of a large watch, and it is a design that remains one of the emblematic models in the watch industry. In the last couple of years, customers have requested a variety of sizes, but the 44mm remains the bestseller.

ON PERFECTING PANERAI’S RELAXED APPROACH: All the trends in the luxury world today point towards a major appetite for a more relaxed, sporty attitude. With Panerai being a sporty brand together with its Italian touch, we are something unique in the watch industry. Thanks to our design studio located in Milano and the fact that we are surrounded by many luxury fashion brands, we are able to regularly introduce new materials, new coloured straps and new evolution, like sustainability.

ON THE NEW RADIOMIR THAT HAS NO NAME ON THE DIAL: The special Radiomir California is a historical dial which has been developed with half Arabic and half Roman numbers. It was inspired by a repair done for an American customer who wanted to replace the historical dial with a new one; one which was not originally a Panerai dial. That’s why there isn’t the brand’s name on it. I am very proud to relaunch the unique Radiomir California in 2023, as all the communities of Panerai lovers know it is a Panerai.

ON THEIR COMMITMENT TO CONSERVATION: Four years ago, we developed a watch using more than 98 percent recycled elements. The Lab ID was a series of concept watches, but we strongly believe that we have to contribute to the protection of the environment. That’s why, for example, on 8 June this year, Panerai will be the official timekeeper of Ocean Day, and 800 of our employees around the world have committed themselves to collecting 10 tons of waste in all the cities in which we operate. This is not a trend, it’s a way of life.

ON

PANERAI’S SUPPORT FOR THE IMIBALA TRUST IN

SOUTH AFRICA: I was so impressed by Theo Willemse, the CEO of the Imibala Trust, and the efficiency of the work done by Imibala in South Africa’s townships. The fact that this foundation is dedicating close to 100 percent of its donations to supporting their work is most impressive. I’ve visited some of the townships where they operate and am impressed by the impact Imibala is making on people’s lives.

WHAT WILL YOUR LEGACY BE AT PANERAI? The Paneristi community is an organisation very close to my heart. We support them but we do not control them, and I often see many of these Panerai enthusiasts around when travelling. In 50 years, I would like the Paneristi to say that we have developed iconic watches that stay true to the heritage of the brand and perpetuate the spirit of Italian masculinity, which Panerai stands for. ■

THE MAN BEHIND THE ITALIAN IDEAS WORKSHOP

yourluxury.africa

ABOVE: Panerai Luminor Calendario Perpetuo LEFT: Panerai Radiomir California

YOUR TECH

FUTURE

WORDS CHRISTINE VAN DEEMTER

PRADA COLLISION CROSS

Miuccia Prada has built a lifetime legacy on being at the forefront of innovation and design – and she doesn’t skimp when it comes to her brand’s sneakers, either. The Prada Collision Cross is made from rubber-injected fabric and features air bubble and vent soles, making them as stylish as they are snug.

HOKA X COTOPAXI

INTO

ON CLOUDVENTURE PEAK 3

Take your trail running to new heights with ON’s latest – and fastest –performance shoe. It features new Missiongrip rubber for better traction and a single mesh upper to make it as light as can be. The patented Speedboard (a thin thermoplastic layer in the midsole) helps propel you forward by harnessing your own kinetic energy with cuttingedge design and technology. Almost as impressive? The Cloudventure Peak 3 features 45 percent recycled polyester.

ADIDAS 4DFWD

Even as its most advanced running shoe, the Adidas 4DFWD can’t make you fly –but it will certainly feel like you are. The shoe features an industry-first bowtieshaped lattice midsole, which transforms vertical pressure into horizontal force. This innovation comes at the intersection of technology and data: Adidas analysed 18 years’ worth of data from athletes and looked at a massive five million variations of the lattice structure before hitting the winning design. The engineered mesh upper of the 4DFWD fits like a sock, while still providing superior support.

The sneaker company has just launched a colourful collaboration with sustainable outdoor gear company Cotopaxi, featuring HOKA’s coveted and technologically advanced Anacapa Breeze Low sneaker. Like all HOKA sneakers, it features the meta-rocker, a curve engineered into the sole that helps propel you forward smoothly – in other words, it’s like wheels for your feet. The engineered air mesh is made from recycled yarns, while the cushioned midsole makes it one of the most comfortable trail sneakers ever. And, of course, it features the signature Hubble Heel for better stability, and Vibram Megagrip rubber outsoles, which reduce the weight of the shoe, making it one of the lightest, most advanced sneakers available.

NEW BALANCE FRESH FOAM BB

NIKE MOTIVA

THE IMAGES SUPPLIED

The newly launched Nike Motiva recognises that not everyone jumps out of bed and runs a smooth, effortless 10km before breakfast. Most runs also include some walking, and this stopstart motion can be hard on your feet. With its brand-new rocker geometry, the Motiva helps propel you forward heel-first, making the transition and impact easier by helping you roll your foot forward more smoothly. Extra cushioning midsole also makes movement more comfortable, while the new ComfortGroove bumps on the outsole compress where and when you need. Small energy savers like these make a huge difference to your movement and fatigue level – and it’s all based on Nike’s deep data-driven design.

yourluxury.africa

IT’S AN OFT-REPEATED QUIP THAT THE BEST SCIENTISTS IN THE WORLD DON’T WORK AT NASA, THEY WORK AT NIKE… HERE’S WHAT SNEAKER INNOVATORS HAVE BEEN COOKING UP TO HELP MAKE YOU FASTER AND LIGHTER ON YOUR FEET

CUFFLINKS

The perfect i ni s

FROM DAPPER TO DASHING,

Slip-on black loafers like these Premium Step Loafers by EuropaArt are a veritable smart-casual lifesaver. europaart.co.za

THE SHOULDER BAG

Gucci revealed a vibrant men’s collection at its SS/23 shows, with accessories to seal the look. We love this equestrian-inspired shoulder bag paired with a retro embroidered jacket and jersey joggers. gucci.com

Dolce&Gabbana’s Fine Jewellery Rainbow collection has us falling in love with colour all over again. A vibrant tribute to the beauty of Sicily, each piece combines a range of natural gemstones such as topaz, amethyst, citrine and tanzanite in a kaleidoscope of colour. dolcegabbana.com

THE SUNGLASSES

Louis Vuitton recently released its LV Signature acetate sunglasses range for men. Opt for a round or square-round shape in black, transparent grey or honey. louisvuitton.com

The sporty Montblanc Extreme 3.0 backpack is the perfect size for all your day-to-day essentials, including your laptop. The external pocket is secured with the M LOCK 4810 buckle – a closure inspired by the world of climbing. montblanc.com

THE BACKPACK

Slip into effortless style with the iconic Zegna Triple Stitch low-top espadrilles which bring a breezy note to suiting. Ideal for completing both laidback and formal looks. zegna.com

ESPADRILLES

QUIET LUXURY’S PARED-BACK STYLE IS ON EVERYONE’S LIPS WHILE BESPOKE TAILORING REMAINS A CUT ABOVE THE REST

THE PERFECT FIT

A brand-new generation of sartorial dressers are breathing air into the world of tailored menswear – one of the most classic of trades. Not all menswear enthusiasts and tailors fit the stiffer archetype of sharp dressers, but many are bringing fresh ideas to redefine tailoring.

A former investment banker turned creative director and founder of Mr Slimfit, Theo Ngobeni has always loved fashion. But for this Sandtonbased tailor, his craft is both an art and a science.

“It’s not straight-forward, and the first consultation often lasts at least an hour,” says Theo. “We take [clients] through the process and teach them about our craft because most people don’t understand that it’s more than just selecting fabrics that are cut and then wearing it.”

The modus operandi to achieve the perfect fit for Mr Slimfit clients lies in their posture, and beyond simply their height, body and age. Multiple clients may have the same measurements, but it’s their different postures that determine the cut of each garment, notes Theo. “At the end of it all, the fabric has to be luxurious, which is important for the construction” he says. “My clients know I don’t like clothes that do not fit properly. For me, fit is everything. A client can be happy with how something fits, but if I’m not happy, we’re still altering it.”

As one of the best dressed in the corporate space he once played in, Theo would go straight from the store to the tailor before he would head home. What set him apart from others was having his clothing tailored to fit his height – from his T-shirts to his jeans.

THERE ARE FEW TRENDS that have dominated the fashion zeitgeist in recent years like quiet luxury has, where clean minimalism, soft textures, neutral palettes and the inconspicuous branding of heritage labels are key. While fashion trend-seekers are in pursuit of quiet luxury, the art of bespoke tailoring and made-tomeasure garments has long existed before this new culturally driven aesthetic.

Quiet luxury is a mood or prescription for living a premium lifestyle that produces an air of confidence. While large luxury houses provide the foundation elements of a quiet-luxury wardrobe like a Picotin bag from Hermès, The Row’s cashmere crew necks or Loro Piana’s linen shirting, a visit to a tailor can be the ultimate transcendental ode to the trend.

Whether it’s a garment crafted to perfectly fit its wearer or a jacket made by tailors with centuries-old heritage that lies in high-society suiting, looking impeccably dressed is not reserved for off-the-rack retail.

Theo stumbled into the world of personal styling while helping friends and colleagues choose clothing and shoes by following current trends, but it wasn’t until 2015 that he established his tailoring studio, Mr Slimfit, with attention to detail and fit as the cornerstones. “What somebody wears represents me as well. My first priority is that my client is happy. Once they’re happy, I show them my version of the piece, which they don’t always think of. So both of us need to be happy with the garment,” he explains.

But there is nuance to the suits Mr Slimfit creates. His male clients mostly want something that just looks good, whereas the female clients are less afraid to experiment with colour and texture, but are much more particular with their fit. “Men are not very creative with clothes, so I teach them and become a style coach,” says Theo. “If we make a navy suit, I’ll tell them not to only wear it with a white shirt, but also a T-shirt, a floral shirt or sneakers. I have to teach them how to get mileage from their clothes,” he adds.

WORDS KIMBERLEY SCHOEMAN PHOTOGRAPHY ROELENE PRINSLOO, SEAN LAURENZ LOCATION KARE DESIGN JOHANNESBURG

REDEFINING THE FIT

LUXURY IS DIFFERENT FOR EVERYONE

Within the buzz of quiet luxury, it can be said that surrounding yourself with tailored goods extends beyond garments and into other areas of our lives. Grooming, fragrances and tech can be low-key luxurious because luxury is a subjective pursuit.

“Everyone’s luxury is different. What one man spends on sports equipment, another might spend on a good shirt and a fragrance,” says Neville Armitage, founder of Armitage Outfitters in Durban. “WIth us, you’re not just buying a suit because the whole experience is important to us.”

In the vein of this holistic luxury lifestyle, Armitage Outfitters looks to the refined and discerned clientele, a keystone of the quiet-luxury archetype. These clients seek items with a documented heritage and the finest pieces for the most honest price, for quiet luxury is a mindset more than a trend.

For its male clients, Armitage serves those who are either in a pinch and need an all-in-one space for tailoring and grooming, or those who take the time to get to know what they are buying, says Neville, who spent his early days as a menswear and furniture buyer. Today, he brings his knowledge of the best fabrics to clients after travelling to Hong Kong, Singapore and London where he sampled them and visited some of the world’s most beautiful stores.

“Ahead of a business trip, there’s often not enough time for grooming, to have multiple pairs of shoes cleaned, plus tailoring and dry cleaning. We take care of all that and even custom make our suit bags,” says Neville.

Neville himself caters for his more mature clients, while his team also works on making the experience of matric dance preparation more exciting. “For a matric dance this year, a mother wanted a velvet jacket for her son. But there wasn’t any velvet in the [local] market. I could have sourced a polyester velvet, but you can see it’s not real, so we imported a piece, which took weeks to make,” says Neville. For these younger clients, this is more than a jacket for their matric dance, but a sort of coming-of-age moment, he says. By the time we finish the tailoring process and the client is dressed up after having their barber treatment, the team adds a touch of fragrance and they are ready to conquer the world.

Of course, trends sway tailors’ offerings, especially when it comes to the fabric, notes Neville. Looking ahead, there’s definitely going to be a boom in natural fabrics such as linen in neutral tones and safari suits in white and chocolate. “If it’s not linen, some of the customers opt for suits in a toffee-caramel colour,” says Neville.

AFRICAN BESPOKE

While wearing tailored clothing grows as a trend, the art of tailoring doesn’t have to become increasingly complicated. It can simply be the ease of trusting an expert in their field to customise your piece. As a third-generation tailor, Raphaël Mukendi brings an African vitality to his tailoring brand, RAPHAËL M.

PREVIOUS PAGE:

Theo Ngobeni (Mr Slimfit), Raphaël Mukendi (RAPHAËL M.) and Luke Radloff (Uni Form)

OPPOSITE: Neville Armitage (Armitage Outfitters)

yourluxury.africa

“I come from a family of tailors. My father and grandfather were both tailors, and that’s where my passion came from,” says Raphaël, who relocated to South Africa from the DRC. “Tailoring was something my family just did for fun. My father’s second job was as a tailor, but I wanted to take it to the next level and bring that passion out into the world.”

Raphaël would watch what his father did in his own business and paid his dues as a tailor in residence before he started RAPHAËL M. in 2010. For his clients, whether a celebrity or sartorial enthusiast, Raphaël wants their personalities to shine through, and he cuts through the noise of the tailoring world by customising European suits and adding African elements through prints and buttons.

During consultations with his clients, Raphaël works to understand how his suits can highlight their personalities and needs. “When you buy a suit from a store, it’s already somewhat customised so there isn’t much more you can do with it. We provide an opportunity for our clients to say ‘this is the kind of suit I want, how I want it to fit me, and these are the differences I want to see,’” says Raphaël.

Raphaël aims to give his clients the opportunity to customise their suits beyond the process of simply having one made by bringing an African voice into a garment that is typically Eurocentric.

His clients also include many well-dressed celebrities who are looking for suits with unique designs and touches. Both international and local celebrity clients like DJ Zinhle and actress Amanda du-Pont have tapped Raphaël, as well as Congolese singer Tresor Riziki, for whom he created a loose-fitting denim set.

“We look at using bright colours and different silhouettes and designs. But the most basic advice we can give clients is in the materials they choose, then we work more according to what they do in that suit,” explains Raphaël.

THE EMOTIONAL CONNECTION TO CLOTHES

Regardless of certain trends, people have an emotional connection to clothes, whether we know it or not. For Luke Radloff, the founder of luxury brand Uni Form, emotional tailoring is at the fore. But Uni Form’s garments exude a quietluxury vibe: they are understated, made to be loved and worn, and focus on quality rather than trends.

Although Luke steers away from bespoke designs, he wants to offer his clients a unique experience, and together with his tailor, work his designs for their needs. The magic lies in the actual designs, and anyone who visits his showroom also gets a tailored sensory experience.

“I call myself a garment-based designer since we really focus on the garment instead of trends or to make your body look a certain way,” says Luke.

Uni Form’s pieces are modular, transseasonal and foundational items like pleated trousers, tailored T-shirts, blouses and outerwear. While these kinds of elevated basics fit into the ubiquity of the quiet luxury buzzword, they are a key to Luke’s use of design to express himself. “I want to encourage people to really wear their clothes – whether they consider them special or expensive pieces – every day. The thing is clothes can wear out and become thread bare,” says Luke.

After working for South African designer and DJ Black Coffee for two years, Luke worked for Italian luxury designer Marni under its founder Consuelo Castiglioni. It is here that his respect for garment quality and finish, paired with confidence in his own ability to design wearable pieces, converged.

Even his consultations with clients lean on emotion. The one-on-one conversation determines their needs and what would suit their lifestyle or personal taste. “There are a lot of art and design pieces that emanate the lifestyle my clients aspire to. When they come in, it’s a very sensory experience,” says Luke.

“I’m not saying the everyday Uni Form pieces will last for centuries, as that’s not realistic,” he adds. “But there are a few special pieces that you wouldn’t wear every day. Those are the pieces that you will hand down to someone when you do eventually part ways with it.” ■

TIME REALLY IS A THING in Geneva. Especially when you happen to find yourself in the Swiss city on that day of the year – when the clocks change to summer time.

In the European quest to eke every little daylight moment out of their summer, the authorities push the clocks back by an hour in the middle of a night early in spring (when it’s still pretty chilly outside, if you ask me, but there are mists of pink on the blossom trees and the mountains are only half white). Anyway, explain all of that to a South African journalist who realises late at night before her flight home that the clocks are being switched back –while she’s asleep. Does that mean that the time of your 7.30am flight changes too? Did the South African travel agent who booked your flight weeks ago, factor in this quirky clock thing? And, finally, if you’re going to bed at 11pm but the clocks only change at 2am, what time do you actually set your wake-up alarm on your cell phone?

NEW TIME ZONE

WORDS JACQUIE MYBURGH CHEMALY

My mind was bent completely by all of this, and the irony of being in the heart of watch world and not knowing exactly what the time was, was not lost on me. I decided to use my very best French efforts and called on the hotel concierge for assistance. He was rather amused, and promised to work it out and wake me the next morning. He did – I made my flight – but I still had no idea what the time was for most of that day.

There is something about travelling to a Swiss watch factory that will always have

Ayou thinking of gingerbread houses and cuckoo clocks. As you drive through the narrow roads that take you into the heart of Le Locle – the centre of Switzerland’s watch-making universe about two hours from Geneva – there are plenty of these gingerbread buildings around to remind you that the roots of Le Locle date back to the 1600s. It is in this valley that you will find the beating heart of the Swiss watch industry. The fancy offices and neon signs may be in Geneva, but it is in the countryside where the remarkable watch workforce has resided for generations – children following in their parents’ footsteps to create the world’s most luxurious timepieces.

Then you round a corner and a massive modern red-and-black structure reminds you that the watch industry is very much a dynamic one, marching through the 21st century.

The building is the brand-new Tudor watch manufacture, and a bold statement that the watch which has for so long been referred to as the sister brand to Rolex, has very much found its own identity.

MAN MEETS MACHINE TO MAKE WATCH MAGIC AT THE NEW TUDOR WATCH MANUFACTURE OUTSIDE GENEVA IN SWITZERLAND

At the recent opening of the Tudor facility, attended by media from all over the world, we were introduced to this state-of-the-art facility which brings together the knowhow of skilled watchmakers, a streamlined production management system and fully automated (read robots!) testing systems. With robots doing the repetitive work and the finer movement assembly done by hand, man and machines work together to ensure the creation of a luxurious timepiece at an affordable price.

The new Tudor manufacture is physically and commercially connected to another building called Kenissi – a name inspired by the word kinesis, meaning movement. With this Kenissi facility and a network of Tudor-owned suppliers, Tudor has been able to develop and produce high-performance watch movements not only for its own watches, but also for some of the world’s leading watch brands, including Breitling, TAG Heuer and Chanel.

yourluxury.africa

One of the fastest-growing luxury watch brands, the Tudor name was first registered in 1926 but was only officially launched by the Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1946. He realised there was a market for a watch with the reliability of a Rolex, but at a more affordable price. It’s a reputation that has stuck, and Tudor really grabbed the watch world’s attention in 2012 with the launch of its Heritage Black Bay model. In fact, Black Bay continues to be the brand’s most important watch.

It was no coincidence, then, that two days after the opening of the new manufacture, Tudor revealed its latest collection for 2023, which includes the first Black Bay Master Chronometer. It was also revealed that all future Tudor watches would be Master Chronometer tested. With this major movement revamp – certifying the watch’s precision and accuracy – as well as the opening of the super-efficient new manufacture, Tudor has surely done Mr Wilsdorf proud. ■

ABOVE, LEFT AND BELOW: Man meets machine at the Tudor and Kenissi manufacture

BOTTOM LEFT: Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer

THE EPITOME OF TIME

THE YOUR LUXURY TEAM GATHERED IN GENEVA FOR THE WATCHES & WONDERS EXHIBITION. THE SWISS CITY WAS A FEAST OF ALL THINGS WATCH-RELATED AND WE’VE ROUNDED UP ALL THE BIG TRENDS THAT CAUGHT OUR EYES

WHILE THE FASHION INDUSTRY HAS TRADITIONALLY relied on trend forecasting to future-proof collections, luxury watch manufacturers do the exact opposite, developing collections in line with their brand DNA. And yet, trends reveal themselves anyway – perhaps the result of “multiple discovery”, the term for multiple people developing the same idea independently.

COMPACT AND CHIC: SMALL IS BEAUTIFUL

Pierre Rainero, image, style and heritage director at Cartier, says there has been a global shift towards smaller watches, as if smaller is more elegant. “I don’t know if it’s a reaction to a long history of big round watches or purely a taste for small, shaped watches. Those are the comments we have been getting (at Watches and Wonders Geneva). I think for ladies to go from small to big is easy, but for men, smaller watches are quite new and more noticeable. It’s a new way of expressing your masculinity. That’s my interpretation.”

Cartier Baignoire

ABOVE, CLOCKWISE:

Vacheron Constantin Overseas; Rolex Oyster

Perpetual Day-Date 36; TAG Heuer Carrera Date

RIGHT: Tudor Royal

WORDS DEBBIE HATHWAY

TOP:

RIGHT: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon

BELOW:

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 4997/200R-001; Bulgari Octo Roma; Hermès H08 Joel Von Allmen

CLASSIC AND SOPHISTICATED: THE SPIRIT OF ELEGANCE

The last few years have been marked by a trend of luxe sports watches being paired with formal wear, streetwear and sports attire. Christian Knoop, chief design officer at IWC Schaffhausen, says, “This affected the commercial reality for many brands and sparked the interest in tech materials and colours. I guess that at a certain point there will be a wave back towards more classic and traditional designs, maybe vintage-inspired, I don’t know –but classic-inspired will come into play again.”

Patek Philippe released several rather covetable pieces, including the Patek Philippe Calatrava in rose gold with a purple dial and strap. The domed dial’s base features a raised concentric wave design and is coated with 50 layers of translucent purple lacquer. The polished case and embossed pattern are accentuated by the bezel’s 76 round and internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds.

COLOUR PROFUSION: A MIX OF BOLD AND MUTED DIAL COLOURS

There is much more variety in the dial colours this year, with watch manufacturers producing everything from bright, vibrant shades to more subtle hues of champagne and violet on their dials and bracelets.

“I think the brands are becoming a lot more playful with their creations, and I hope to see more of this in the near future,” says Rolf Studer, Co-CEO at Oris. “A watch is a joyful object. Why be so heavy and serious? You can wear a traditional pilot watch with great inner workings but why not have fun with a bright-coloured dial or alternative motif? We saw a lot of this at Watches and Wonders, and I think we will be seeing more of it in the watchmaking world over the next couple of years.”

Tudor revealed its sports-chic Royal watch with a sunray dial available in light salmon or chocolate brown – with or without diamonds –in 28, 34, 38 or 41mm case sizes.

GEM-SET NOVELTIES: JEWELS THAT TELL TIME

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Secret Necklace is an exquisite example of a piece that illustrates the designer’s own interpretation of a watch that can be worn as jewellery. The latest Secret Necklace features a diamondset Reverso that is suspended on a necklace of diamond-set links and polished onyx beads. There are over 3 000 diamonds in this masterpiece, totalling 20 carats, which take more than 300 hours to set by the highly skilled artisans from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s in-house Métiers Rares atelier. “Reverso is made to be hidden, so this is a natural next step for us,” says Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Catherine Renier.

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ABOVE: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Secret Necklace

CERAMIC: REDEFINING THE TRADITIONAL LOOK OF A SPORTS WATCH

Black ceramic sports watches are becoming increasingly popular among collectors who want an understated piece in a unique material. The Zenith Defy Skyline in full ceramic was the show favourite, particularly the Defy Skyline Skeleton with subsidiary seconds at six o’clock.

Walter Volpers, the director of manufacturing at IWC Schaffhausen, says, “We introduced coloured ceramics back in the 80s, extending the colour palette with the Pantone shades for the Pilot’s watches last year. Today, many other brands are introducing ceramic to their collection because it is a powerful trend and a beautiful material. It’s a sustainable material due to its longevity, and it’s also a performance material. Ceramic is robust and doesn’t scratch, so it matches perfectly with the watch industry.”

A year after the extremely successful launch of the Square Bang Unico, Hublot presents three new editions in sapphire and ceramic, showcasing the maison’s exceptional mastery of these

ABOVE:

Breitling Top Time B01 Ford Thunderbird; Bell & Ross BR-X5 Ice Blue 41mm Steel Kenissi Movement; IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

yourluxury.africa

UNISEX WATCHES: A MATTER OF TASTE, NOT GENDER

More and more manufacturers are launching superbly designed gender-neutral timepieces, choosing not to dictate who should wear them. Interestingly, the Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2022 (see sidebar) notes that 44 percent of women prefer female-specific designs, while only 26 percent favour unisex options. According to the study, “Nearly half of brands are expanding their range of designs tailored to females and one-third are looking to offer female-friendly sizes. Brands see a bright future with female buyers.”

Commenting on the trend of reinterpreting iconic watches, Carlos Rosillo, president and co-founder of Bell & Ross, says, “Brands have to retain and revisit the elements that make their icons a success [to extend their range for avid collectors] and reach new customers. We launched the BR X5 at the end of last year, which is at the junction of the BR 03, one of our icons, and the superlative BR 05.”

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton; Hublot Square Bang Unico White Ceramic; Chanel J12 Cybernetic

SUSTAINABLE SPARKLE: LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS AND WATCHES WITH A CONSCIENCE

As consumers place more emphasis on sustainability, watch brands are finding innovative ways to integrate ethical and eco-friendly practices into their design and their production processes. Chopard recently announced its expanded use of Lucent Steel, a recycled steel alloy initially introduced in its Alpine Eagle collection in 2019. This steel has an ethical advantage and physical and aesthetic benefits, as it is tougher and shinier than conventional stainless steel. Panerai has reaffirmed its commitment to sustainability through the use of materials such as eSteel in three of its new Radiomir models. Breitling has adopted several initiatives, including a partnership with apparel brand Outerknown, in order to pioneer new ways to sustainably source and manufacture materials. The Outerknown ECONYL® straps are created using upcycled nylon waste retrieved from the oceans. In addition to this, Anthracite provides a waterproof finish to their fabric-like weave. Brands like Oris and TAG Heuer are incorporating lab-grown diamonds into gem-set watches.

VINTAGE:

OLD-SCHOOL IS STILL IN VOGUE

Grand Seiko brand manager Rob Brook notes the very many reinterpretations of historical models in recent times, and a resurgence of interest in a vintage-style mid size timepiece. “We have done quite a lot of mid-sized watches – 30mm to 40mm diameters are now more popular than they have been in previous years. Personally, I think these mid-sized cases are making a bit of a comeback and there is a lot of interest in vintage recreations. Thankfully, we have a lot of heritage on our side.” ■

RIGHT: Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni

BELOW: Oris Aquis Date Diamonds; Chopard Happy Sport

BEYOND TIMEKEEPING

The authors of the Deloitte Swiss Watch Industry Study 2022 believe that longevity, innovation, spirit and passion are all the sector needs to “successfully recalibrate for the future”. Report findings were gathered from an online survey of senior executives, various interviews with industry experts and an online survey of 5 579 consumers in the home and top export markets (China, France, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Singapore, the UAE, UK and US).

Looking ahead:

• The secondary market is expected to grow to CHF 35 billion by 2030, making up more than half of the market. Younger consumers favour pre-owned watches due to price sensitivity and sustainability.

• Offline sales should dominate over the next five years, but e-commerce continues to grow. Respondents believe the percentage (15 percent) of watches sold online will double by 2030.

• Sustainability credentials definitely drive decision-making for Gen Z and millennials. For the others, it’s 50:50 between those who value it and those who simply buy what they like.

• There is a growing affinity for valueappreciating premium timepieces, especially in the US. However, in Asia, the money-making potential of watches through resale is clearly valued more than provenance – 23 percent of consumers buy a watch for investment or resale.

• While non-fungible tokens (NFTs) remain a mystery to 31 percent of respondents, 57 percent of brands plan to launch one in 2023 primarily as a digital twin, for certification purposes and to accessorise in the metaverse.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Tudor Black Bay GMT; Grand Seiko Tentagraph; Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

WATCHES, WONDERS & KERMIT THE FROG

FROM EMOJIS TO CHRONOGRAPHS, LUXURY WATCHMAKERS DELIGHTED WITH PLAYFUL DESIGNS AND INNOVATIVE FUNCTIONS AT WATCHES AND WONDERS 2023

WORDS DEBBIE HATHWAY

THE WATCHES AND WONDERS 2023 programme flies by in a flurry of activity and blurred memories, followed by weeks of analysing trends and talking points. One comment that sticks in my mind relates to Montblanc and its Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland. Sharing his top picks during a panel discussion about trending product novelties, Jean-Christophe Teigner, the secretary general of The Fine Watch Club, stated: “Minerva – the Manufacture of Montblanc… go and check it out. Even the Patek collectors are going there to sneak around.” High praise indeed.

One of the fair favourites is a world-first. The Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Limited Edition enables manipulation of the chronograph via an 18kt white gold fluted bezel instead of traditional pushers. One click starts the timer, a second click stops it and a third click resets it. The chronograph is powered by the hand-finished manually wound Calibre MB M13.21. It is limited to 100 pieces in reference to the 100th anniversary of the Calibre 13.20, which was the predecessor to this movement.

Jean-Christophe also singled out the Montblanc Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition. At first glance, you might think it has a skeletonised movement, but the historic hand-wound Minerva MB M16.29 has been flipped to be visible on the dial side. The meticulously hand-finished movement is one of the few in Montblanc’s archive of chronographs that could achieve this complicated feat. Turning the movement over means reversing the direction of the hands which requires adding 21 components, making this more than an aesthetic feature – it’s a genuinely technical one. It’s definitely all in the detail.

Commenting on the Maison’s transformation of its watchmaking operation over just under a decade, Franck Juhel, president – Middle East, India, Africa, Greece and Turkey at Montblanc, said, “We have found our path and it is being recognised internally, by our partners, journalists and collectors. We have two references that we are presenting now [at Watches and Wonders]. Everything was sold out on the first day of the salon, which shows that the team at Le Locle and Villeret has been doing an amazing job.”

EXPLOSION OF COLOUR

Everybody loved the Oris collaboration with Kermit the Frog for a special edition of their ProPilot X. The privately owned Swiss watchmaker selected the instantly recognisable green dial for the ProPilot X Kermit Edition Calibre 400, positioning the quirky amphibian to appear on the first day of the month in the window at six o’clock. The watch is set in a 39mm titanium case and fastened with a titanium bracelet.

Oris is known for its particularly upbeat approach to watch design, incorporating a little joy and happiness into its storytelling. Their watches must make wearers happy, whether from the colour of the dial, the size or the movement. “The watch must make you smile,” says Co-CEO Rolf Studer. The brand’s watches are available over a broad price range, appealing to those who see watches as a hobby and collectors who value the complexity of a mechanical watch. Rolf says that buying a watch should not be about affordability but rather the emotion and the story. “You need to give people joy because that is the only reason they would spend money on something they don’t really need,” he says.

While Rolex has been more adventurous in its presentation of coloured dials lately, the brand surprised us with an Oyster Perpetual dial dotted with multicoloured bubbles and an even more colourful Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 dial design

featuring a puzzle motif created using champlevé enamelling. But not everybody loved them, with some purists questioning why they would go off-brand with the new release. Some preferred the bubble decoration with Celebration motif with the colours of the dials launched last year.

The Day-Date “affirmation emoji” watch, as one expert called it, displays neither the day nor the date, instead allowing the wearer to reflect his or her mood with the words “happy”, “eternity”, “gratitude”, “peace”, “faith”, “love” and “hope” on a disc housed in an arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock. At three o’clock, the day is replaced by one of 31 emojis throughout the month. Ten baguette-cut sapphire indices mark the hours. The watch is available in 18kt yellow or white gold with a turquoise base colour for the dial or 18kt Everose gold with orange as the base colour, fitted on a President bracelet.

On a side note, Rolex is not the first to feature an emoji on a watch’s dial. The Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin included one on his Joker Selfie Only Watch unique piece in 2019 – the world’s first mechanical watch with a selfie dial. The watch’s day-of-theweek indicator is set in a special window in the upper section of the dial, with joker-style emojis devised by Konstantin representing the days of the week. ■

OPPOSITE: Rolex Oyster Perpetual with Celebration motif

TOP: Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition Calibre 400

ABOVE: Montblanc 1858 The Unveiled Timekeeper Minerva Limited Edition

RIGHT: Montblanc 1858 Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph Limited Edition

MAKING MEMORIES

WORDS INGRID WOOD

TEN YEARS AGO, my daughter was invited to join friends on a trip to Morukuru in Madikwe Game Reserve in the North West Province. She was eight at the time and the family had a daughter of the same age, so her presence was requested for company. She didn’t quite understand how fortunate she was to experience a five-star lodge at her tender age (while her envious parents stayed home!), but she did come back bursting with stories about pizza and cookie making (she was totally enamoured with the kitchen staff), the enormous rooms, spoor identification and the exciting game drives. To date, the trip remains one of her fondest memories, and she has never forgotten the name Morukuru.

It’s taken a decade for my turn to visit the same place, and the timing could not have been better – the exclusive-use Morukuru Farm House recently underwent an extensive refurbishment and all was ready to be revealed. While the structure is as it was when built in 2010 and still offers five spacious en-suite bedrooms, the rest is all new, from the paint to the decor, as well as some other innovative additions.

Designer Janine Butter from Huis van Middenmeer in the Netherlands, who has been involved with the decor and design of the other Morukuru Family properties (Morukuru Ocean House, AtholPlace Villa and Morukuru Beach Lodge), headed up the project with assistance from Jan Engelbrecht of Andreas Nicolaas Interiors. She drew inspiration from the colours of the bushveld – dusty green, terracotta and natural hues – which are artistically woven into the fabrics and wallpapers, as well as in the outdoor and poolside furniture. Beautiful touches include the huge, beaded hanging lamp by Mash.T Design Studio and an artwork by Teboho Makoatsa commissioned especially for the entrance space, together with Ardmore fabrics and wallpaper with various patterns and colour combinations. Imported fabrics and organic furniture by Gommaire are combined with local South African finds. “We wanted to create a more modern look but still incorporate the rustic feel of the bush, with the interior and exterior of Farm House blending naturally,” says Janine. While fresh and modern, the character of a family farmhouse remains and there is a feeling of harmony and balance. It’s like walking into a familiar and welcoming home, where curling up with a book on the couch in the lounge, falling asleep on the daybed next to the pool or padding into the kitchen in your robe for a snack, all feel completely natural.

THE NEWLY RESTORED MORUKURU FARM HOUSE IS THE KIND OF PLACE THAT INVITES YOU TO CREATE DEEP CONNECTIONS AND LASTING MEMORIES

The Morukuru Freedom Concept, which allows guests to do ‘whatever they want, whenever they want’ (within rules and reasoning of a Big Five reserve), means the staff approach service differently. Over and above served meals and drinks, the kitchen and bar are open to all on a helpyourself basis. Guests can determine their day from activities to times, or can opt to zone out and let someone else make the decisions. Another of Morukuru’s special philosophies is to surprise their guests and the team is adept at setting these up in a variety of glorious spots. Sundowners perched atop the hill at what is known as Ed’s View (Morukuru Family owners Ed and Anka Zeeman each have their ‘spot’ for such experiences), lunch al fresco on the patio or dinner by candlelight at the incredible new addition, the Sunset Deck. About the latter – don’t let the word deck fool you. The area, conceptualised

by architect Nick Plewman, the planner behind most of the properties within the Morukuru Family stable, has enough room to house a well-appointed spa treatment room, a large space for relaxing or dining and a fire pit for those pre- and post-dinner tipples. It is also perfectly positioned over a waterhole – the ideal spot to sit quietly and watch the elephants and other game quench their thirst – and capitalises on the beautiful sunsets over the Onverwag Koppies. “We wanted to ensure that this magical space remained serene and calm and that the view became the focal point,” explains Janine.

Other surprises come in a variety of forms, big and small, such as the option to sleep under the stars at the private hide; sightings (in addition to the Big Five) of the unexpected black impala, sable, roan antelope and the golden wildebeest;

the fabulous butler Shadrack Mogwere – a mixologist of note with an incredible singing voice to boot; the most delectable crunchies and ginger biscuits thanks to resident baker Gloria Mlambo; the private outdoor showers; a woven sunhat and fan for use during your stay; an outdoor bath in a boma; and a beckoning day bed for birders to get stuck in with binoculars to tick off those sightings. Add to that the fact that the property is completely off grid, and it really is very hard to return to the chaos of the city.

But leave we must, and that is why places like Morukuru are so good for the soul. It’s a perfect example of the term quiet luxury. It is subtle and without the excess and extravagance that is often associated with traditional luxury. From the minimalist but functional design to the personalised service and attention to detail, Morukuru Farm House ticks all the boxes. More importantly, for me, is it is a place that is warm and familiar, the kind of place that will make me yearn to go back when I need to revel in the quiet.

As the goodbye note on my pillow said:

“When you long to see the elephants

Or to hear the coucals sing

When the moonrise sets your blood on fire

You have been away too long.”

morukuru.com ■

AS THE WORLD BECOMES more and more conscious of the environmental impact of human activity, most industries are beginning to explore ways to reduce their carbon footprint. The ever-growing emphasis on climate action across the globe has brought about a real sense of urgency for the maritime industry to also decarbonise its operations. The Yacht Environmental Transparency Index (YETI) – a valuable tool for evaluating a yacht’s environmental impact as well as its fuel-to-energy conversion efficiency – has now been introduced as a joint project by shipyards, naval architecture studios and research institutes. All these developments over the past decade or so have led to a growing trend of zeroemissions yachts and boats, with several leading manufacturers embracing the movement, paving the way for a greener future on the water.

THIS MONTH SEES THE ENERGY OBSERVER DOCK IN CAPE TOWN AS HYDROGEN-POWERED YACHTS LEAD THE WAY IN CLEAN MARITIME TRAVEL

Among all the alternative fuel options, hydrogen is gaining the most attention in the maritime industry, emerging as the preferred solution for reducing emissions and achieving more sustainable boating. Over the past few years, an increasing number of engine manufacturers and shipbuilders have been actively exploring hydrogen as a fuel source for yachts. The Dutch shipbuilding giant Feadship, Germany’s Lürssen, and Italian shipbuilders Baglietto and Sanlorenzo, are all working on their own versions of hydrogen fuel-cell systems. Of these, Lürssen is set to launch its first ever hydrogen-powered superyacht – codenamed Project Cosmos – as early as 2024 and Feadship has announced a superyacht that will house a cryogenic fuel tank storing liquified hydrogen at around -250°C. Baglietto has already showcased its BZero hydrogen production prototype, a scaled-down version of which will be

SettingSail

WORDS Sony Thomas

INTO THE FUTURE

installed on their yachts of over 50 metres in length. Earlier this year, global engine major Rolls-Royce Power Systems achieved a breakthrough in this energy transition process by successfully running a stationary 12-cylinder MTU 4000 Series petrol engine fuelled entirely by hydrogen. The company also confirmed petrol engines that are already installed can be modified and turned into hydrogen mills, hinting at the possible conversion of yachts that are already powered by the marine engines made by its subsidiary MTU Friedrichshafen.

Another name that is leading the way in hydrogen-powered boats is the French manufacturer Energy Observer, which incidentally is bringing its eponymous vessel to our shores this month. The revolutionary boat, which will be on display at Jetty 2 of Cape Town’s Victoria & Albert Waterfront from 8 to 18 June, is the first hydrogenpowered, zero-emission vessel to be self-sufficient in energy, and serves as a travelling laboratory for ecological transition. It is powered by Toyota’s hydrogen fuel-cell system that services the second generation Mirai zero-emissions vehicle, which was revealed in South Africa earlier this year.

The advantages of hydrogen-powered yachts are many. They can reduce water pollution in sensitive marine ecosystems and contribute to cleaner air quality by eliminating greenhouse gas emissions, particulate matter and nitrogen oxides. Moreover, the absence of oil or fuel spills associated with conventional engines minimises the risk of water contamination. They also have the potential to reduce noise pollution, which has a significant impact on marine life. Hydrogen-powered yachts also offer extended cruising ranges compared to battery-electric ones as the gas has a higher energy density. This is particularly important for larger vessels and long-distance voyages. There are also economic benefits to using zero-emissions boats and yachts. For example, they need less maintenance than traditional dieselor petrol-powered vessels as there are fewer moving parts and no need for oil changes or the other maintenance tasks associated with combustion engines. They also reduce running costs as they do not require conventional fuel.

From a luxury travel point of view, zeroemissions boats and yachts can provide both a unique and enjoyable experience for passengers. Without the noise and fumes associated with traditional boats, passengers can enjoy a far more peaceful and relaxing environment. The lack of the vibration from the engines also makes for a smoother, more comfortable ride.

However, several challenges could impede the immediate and widespread adoption of hydrogen-powered yachts. Storage and distribution of the gas on a vessel need to be carefully addressed due to hydrogen’s low-energy density and high flammability. Ensuring safety standards, such as proper ventilation and leak-detection systems, is indeed essential. Additionally, optimising the efficiency and performance of fuel-cell systems for marine applications requires continuous research and development. Another crucial factor to consider is the availability of a comprehensive hydrogen refuelling infrastructure.

While hydrogen-powered yachts are still in the early stages of development and deployment, they represent a promising avenue for sustainable boating. Continued advancements in hydrogen production, storage and infrastructure, together with the improvements in fuel-cell technology, will play a vital role in the widespread adoption of hydrogen-powered yachts and the decarbonisation of the maritime industry altogether. ■

OPPOSITE AND TOP: The Energy Observer hydrogen vessel ABOVE: Baglietto T-Line superyacht

SPIRITS OF THE RISING SUN

JAPANESE WHISKY IS STEPPING UP – AND THE WORLD IS TAKING NOTICE WORDS RICHARD HOLMES

WE HAVE JIM MURRAY to thank for this. Or, perhaps, to curse.

In 2015, Jim, who was then one of the most respected whisky writers, released his annual Whisky Bible, naming the Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013 as 'Best Whisky in the World'. Japanese whisky had arrived.

“That really made people sit up and take notice,” says Cameron Paulse, a whisky connoisseur and manager at Cape Town whisky bar The Old Bailey.

Almost overnight, the world very quickly discovered what the whisky connoisseurs had happily kept to themselves: Japanese whiskies were an exciting new frontier of spirits. Japan had actually been distilling whisky for over a century, and the wellkept secret was finally out. Stocks were snapped up, and prices skyrocketed.

Today, Japanese whisky has gone from niche to mainstream. Over the decade into 2021, the value of whisky exports rose 20-fold to more than ¥45-billion, sold largely in China, Europe and the United States.

While the Japanese have long taken inspiration from the Scots in crafting whisky, “Japanese whisky definitely has its own profile,” says Alex de Ujfalussy, a passionate whisky collector and founder of the NPF (Nose.Palate.Finish) Tasting Rooms in Johannesburg.

“It’s very clean. They keep the spirit at the forefront; there’s no huge wood profile.”

“The Japanese culture is very precise, and that comes through in the whisky,” agrees Cameron. “The flavour profile is very clean-cut. There’s a definite mouth feel; something special about the viscosity.”

That’s the good stuff, at least. For decades, Japanese distillers have taken advantage of vague regulations around what actually counted as a Japanese whisky, leading to a glut of sub-standard blended spirits on the market. Recognising the reputational risk, in 2021 the Japan Spirits & Liqueurs Makers Association laid down a set of regulations regarding raw ingredients, method and origin.

But within those new regulations, there remains a defining culture of experimentation. “Because Japanese whiskies don’t have the strict legislation or tradition of somewhere like Scotland, it means they can really be quite creative,” says Dave Gunns, co-founder of Wild About Whisky in Dullstroom, where you’ll find 1700 whiskies, including a sizeable Japanese selection, behind the bar.

A key area of experimentation comes in the wooden barrels used for ageing. Many distillers work with indigenous Mizunara oak, which lends spicy notes of sandalwood and coconut to the spirit. Whiskies like Kamiki are aged in sakura – cherry wood – barrels while others are matured in casks of fragrant cedar wood or pine. Whiskies like Umiki are even diluted with desalinated seawater.

OPPOSITE: Nikka From the Barrel

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP:

Shinjiro Torii, the so-called father of Japanese whisky, built Japan’s first malt whisky distillery and was the country’s first Master Blender; Umiki Ocean Fused whisky; various Japanese single malts; Yamakazi Sherry Cask

“Blending whisky with salt water? It’s an innovation they simply wouldn’t allow in Scotland,” says Dave. “But it’s a mirror of Springbank or Wolfburn, where coastal maturation brings that salty character.”

And while local spirit-lovers are still starved of many of those more boutique releases, if you know where to look, you’ll definitely unearth some treasures.

At The Old Bailey, Nikka’s From the Barrel is the go-to for most guests looking to discover a good Japanese whisky, but you’ll also find Nikka Black – a 21-year-old with a hint of peat – as well as a rare Karuizawa 19-year-old. “Karuizawa is perhaps the most cult of Japanese whiskies,” says Cameron. “It’s been closed since 2001 and is famous for its intense sherry cask matured drams.”

The NPF Tasting Rooms offer around 600 unique whiskies for tasting, including about 40 Japanese bottlings. That includes Nikka malts finished in apple brandy casks, six expressions of the Akkeshi distillery and a highly covetable collection of malts by cult distillery Chichibu.

“You won’t find a single age-statement whisky in there,” says Alex. ”Everything is a single cask, a small batch or a limited edition bottling.” ■

"The JAPANESE culture is very PRECISE , and that comes through in the WHISKY"

WHAT A WONDERFUL WORLD

HOW DO YOU LIKE TO START YOUR DAY?

I wake up at 4am, and then between 5am and 7am I sit at my computer because no one is around to interrupt me. It’s my way of making sure this little connector is not going to be distracted by another potential human connection! Then at 8am I go for a long walk – for at least an hour. Walking is important as it helps me think. When putting one foot in front of the other with a direct destination in mind, I find things suddenly start unpacking or solving themselves. If I don’t walk in the morning, I won’t sleep well that night.

RECENT MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE?

Last year in Mexico, I met a woman who mentioned that she goes to an urban farm some mornings. She then invited me along to this beautiful farm where a group of us picked vegetables, found newly hatched eggs and made omelettes. It was incredible.

WHAT MAKES AN ESTABLISHMENT WORTH

A REPEAT VISIT? Great service. I’m at a place in my life where I’m no longer dazzled by places that are the coolest or the hippest. For me, what is most luxurious is the experience of walking into a place and being treated like gold regardless of what I’m wearing, what mood I’m in or who I’m with. I love places where I’m always treated well.

SPECIAL DISH YOU LOVE TO COOK? I love some sort of stewed meat, like oxtail, with a delicious gravy. I serve it with rice and green leafy vegetables that have been sautéed lightly with onion, chilli and garlic.

WHETHER TRAVELLING FOR WORK AS THE STRATEGIC PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR AT BRANSON CENTRE OF ENTREPRENEURSHIP SOUTH AFRICA OR ENJOYING LIFE IN CAPE TOWN, NWABISA

MAYEMA SAVOURS MAKING CONNECTIONS WITH THOSE AROUND HER

WORDS NORMA YOUNG

DRINK OF CHOICE? A recent discovery I enjoy is a red wine called Die Boskind. I’ll always turn to a Babylonstoren Babel. FICTION OR NON-FICTION BOOKS? I am very much into reading contemporary African fiction because I need that escape. I need that imagination, and it can be anything from hilarious to heart-breaking.

YOUR IDEA OF A FUN EVENING? It really does come down to the company. If I’m with people who are just happy to be around each other and go with the flow, it’s an evening that starts off with an after-work drink and then becomes two suppers with a venue change. And we’ve had deep conversations and made one or two silly decisions. You go home feeling like it was the best night of your life!

TRAVEL WISHLIST? I’m hoping to get to Rwanda towards the end of this year, and then I would love to explore the coast of Kenya, and Morocco as well. And then because I work for Virgin, space! The idea of being able to sit outside of the atmosphere and look at this pale blue dot of planet Earth would be an incredibly profound experience. I think it would open up understanding of both the smallness of who we are and the interconnectedness of everything. I think it might even highlight the urgency to build inclusive economies that enable thriving people and can sustain a healthy planet.

Spot in the house: My banana yellow couch in the lounge. It’s my happy place. Podcast: When I’m in the mood for something light but thought-provoking, Scam Goddess or Maintenance Phase. Bar: The Winchester in Cape Town. They’ve got a fantastic courtyard where you can order a bowl of chips and a glass of wine and have a great time. Homeware brand: Mungo Design for bed linen. I love their natural materials, good craftsmanship, sustainable practices and that they treat their staff well. Hotel: Locally, I love The Dorp Hotel in Cape Town. It’s in the city but is hidden away. ■ FIVE FAVES:

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