#helvet magazine Genève | Été 2023 | EN

Geneva

Cosmopolitan and yet quintessentially Swiss; Dive into the nation’s greatest small city, where the water is the mirror of the world.

What is it that drives someone to greatness?

To take on the unknown, venture into the unseen and dare all? This is the spirit that gave birth to TUDOR, a spirit carried forward by every woman and man who wears this watch. Without it, there is no story, no legend and no victory. This is the spirit that drives David Beckham every single day. This is the spirit embodied by every TUDOR Watch. Some are born to follow. Others are born to dare.

YIQING YIN, HAUTE COUTURE CREATOR, WEARS THE VACHERON CONSTANTIN ÉGÉRIE.

“ LET TIME FLY. YOU MIGHT GET TO AN EXCEPTIONAL PLACE.”

Elegance is an attitude

Regé-Jean Page

LONGINES SPIRIT ZULU TIME

Longines

Editorial

The Rhône’s often turbulent waters led the way. After many years spent exploring the mountains of Valais, helvet magazine has finally reached the shores of Lake Geneva. After Verbier and Zermatt, we now welcome you to explore our Geneva edition in all its glory. Here amongst these pages, the essence of Switzerland has been brought to life through the grandeur, beauty, and spirit of the country and its beautiful lakeside hideaway.

At first glance your eye is drawn to the dazzling Jet d’Eau over Lake Geneva. A liquid sculpture that’s as delicate as it is enduring. A signature traced through the skyline that has come to symbolize this great city. At its feet, the very heart of the harbour where we swim — yes, in those crystal clear waters.

Our sights have long been set on Geneva. A project that blossomed slowly due to a global pandemic and ongoing uncertainties about world peace. Yet another reason, perhaps, to finally give it a go, because when it comes to peace and humanity, Geneva is an obvious epicentre. A mini–New York City (albeit different, of course!), a hub for diplomacy and headquarters of the world’s largest international institutions, where all countries cross paths in the best of intentions. A global yet approachable city.

Its theatrical geography marks a crossroads where the city, lake, rivers, and mountains meet. But it’s not for show; it’s as authentic as it gets. Simultaneously powerful and discreet, strong in its convictions and its industries (notably watchmaking and banking), historic but also embracing state-of-the-art technology, undoubtedly prosperous and yet always working towards the common good. Its magic words? Etiquette and high quality of life. With an abundance of high-calibre shopping and dining (recognized by many stars and food-lovers alike), the city effortlessly unfolds in the summer by the lake, the docks, the open-air cafés, the tender lawns of the city parks, around a picnic, or in a game of street golf. So much more than a pretty picture, Geneva is a city that lives intensely – now and forever – by going with the flow.

Discover Geneva every year in a new edition of helvet

Christian Bugnon Publisher & Editor-in-chief

Christian Bugnon : christian@helvet.swiss Project Manager Anne-Laure Bugnon: annelaure@district.swiss Writers info@helvet.swiss | Daniel Bauchervez, Sharmila Bertin, Christian Bugnon, Isabelle Guignet, Claude Hervé-Bazin, Yannick Nardin, Marie de Pimodan Photographers Ralf Baumgarten (p.93), Karine Bauzin (p.64-70), Rebecca Bowring (p.34-37), David Carlier (p.60), Tom Claeren (p.102) Guillaume Cottancin (p.51, p.52-57), Valentin Del-Nista (p.97), Valentin Flauraud (p.105), Romain Keller (p.51), MezPhotographie (p.88), Patrice Moullet (p.34-37), Mario Schoby | Red Bull Content Pool (p.82), Samo Vidic | Alinghi Red Bull Racing (p.85), Genève Tourisme : Julien Dejeu (p.24), Gauvin Lapetoule (p.23, p.27, p.33, p.102), André Meier (p.74, p.101), Olivier Miche (p.102), Loris von Siebenthal (p.21, p.31, p.73, p.77, p.79, p.80). Jean-Jacques Steiner (p.20) Design District Creative Lab — Samuel Galley English translation Karen Cooper Photo-offset printing Images3 Advertising info@district.swiss Copyright

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CULTURE THE ORCHESTRA GOES TO THE BEACH!

Some good things came out of Covid after all... The need to escape enclosed concert halls brought the Orchestre de la Suisse Romande (OSR) outdoors to the Genève-Plage for the first time in 2020. Despite the gloomy weather for the inaugural edition, the event’s success has made it a new tradition. This year it returns again, with some of the OSR’s 112 musicians performing on a pop-up stage at Genève-Plage for three nights of open-air music, August 17-19, beginning at 20:45 each night. Experience these low-cost (20 francs) evenings of classical music, cine-concerts, jazz, and crossover.

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GASTRONOMY A SPACE FOR TASTING GENEVAN WINE

This summer, the Pont de la Machine building’s wooden platform, which faces the Rhône, welcomes a tasting space for discovering wines (and beers, of course) from the canton of Geneva. Wine producers and brewers provide the programming, which will be held in the evenings on select dates beginning late June. Highlights include chasselas, gamay, blondes, but also fruit juice and snacks. An excellent way to promote and discover local goods.

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GASTRONOMY A GOURMET PASSPORT

The Passeport Gourmand concept, which started in Lyon in the 1980s, has since spread to every Swiss canton in French-speaking Switzerland and even to Bern. How does it work? Valid for one year, the passport offers a discount of up to 50% on a meal for two (excluding specials, drinks, and holidays). The Geneva passport, which costs 95 francs, includes 142 restaurant tables in the canton and in neighbouring France. The Assiette Genevoise (90 francs) map works the same way, but it can be transferred to others and works with credit card payments. It also offers additional discounts for select hotels and leisure activities.

passeport-gourmand.ch | assiettegenevoise.com

URBAN LIFE FLEA MARKETS & GARAGE SALES

A 10-minute walk from the banks of the Rhône and two steps from Bastions Park, you can catch the Flea Market of Plainpalais in full swing every Wednesday and Saturday, in addition to the first Sunday of the month. Beneath the chestnut and linden trees of Mail Avenue, a laundry list of treasures awaits: books, vintage clothes and accessories, porcelain (or not) dishware, artwork, knick-knacks, jewellery, electronics, baskets, pocket watches and more. Some local vendors have loyally tended their stands for 40+ years! In a similar vein, from mid-May to early October, the city organises “La ville est à vous” (the city is yours), a car-free weekend in different neighbourhoods for inhabitants to hold garage sales. Look for it in Pâquis the weekend of September 23-24, and in Eaux-Vives October 7-8. geneve.ch

SIGHTSEEING DISCOVER THE PALAIS DES NATIONS

In the northwest of Geneva’s historic old town, in the centre of the large Ariana Park, you’ll find the home of the United Nations Office at Geneva (and numerous sub-organisations) in the building that was once home to the former Palais des Nations. Originally built in the 1930s, it has since expanded to cover a total 206,345 m2! You can explore part of the facilities through a guided tour, though we recommend booking as far in advance as possible (as construction has limited the number of available time slots). It’s also possible to book private VIP visits for 280 francs.

ungeneva.org

SIGHTSEEING THE SECRETS OF CERN

You’ve probably heard of CERN: The European Organization for Nuclear Research. Located at the Esplanade des Particules at the French-Swiss border, it’s one of the world’s most important scientific laboratories, on a mission to understand the universe through the study of fundamental particles. To better understand the centre’s work, you can take a guided tour, which includes a visit to the impressive Synchrocyclotron accelerator, the predecessor of CERN’s famous Large Hadron Collider, which is the largest and most powerful particle accelerator in the world… shaped like a ring that’s 27 km long! visit.cern/guided-tours-individuals

GASTRONOMY REFETTORIO: GASTRONOMY + HUMANITARIAN AID

Located on Rue de Lyon, near Parc des Franchises, the restaurant Refettorio Geneva is on a mission to provide contemporary, high-end daily meals to those in need. Think it’s impossible? Well, the ultra-dynamic Walter El Nagar, aka “The Mad Chef,” who had a 15/20 with Gault&Millau at his previous establishment, makes it possible by charging an average price (36 francs) for lunch on weekdays (omnivore and vegetarian options available), in order to offer 400 free evening meals in partnership with other local non-profit organizations. This zero-waste food model in a fine dining atmosphere is a bit like a soup kitchen… but version 2.0! Donations and volunteers are always welcome. refettoriogeneva.org

CULTURE REJUVENATED GENEVA MUSEUMS

As a benchmark institution, Geneva’s monumental Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (MAH) is a depository for an encyclopaedic collection of some 650,000 objects spanning archaeology, fine arts, applied arts, and watchmaking. It’s one of the largest museums in Switzerland, but it has reached maximum capacity for its current building, which was inaugurated in 1910. After a false start in 2016, efforts to restore and enlarge the building (by 6,000 m2) are finally underway, with the notable addition of a campus museum and a scenic garden. The next step is to launch a call for architectural proposals in September, with a 2030 anticipated completion date. In parallel, preparations have begun to expand the Natural History Museum, which should be completed in 2027. museesdegeneve.ch

FESTIVALS RETURN OF THE LAKE PARADE

Launched in 1997, but on hiatus for the past 6 years, Geneva’s biggest electronic music festival is back! On July 15, the parade will begin at its usual location at Mon Repos Park, with a dozen or more DJ floats, and will roll to the Quai Gustave-Ador (facing the Eaux-Vives beach), where it will coincide with Lake Sensation, the largest open-air festival in French-speaking Switzerland. The event will end the next day on July 16, with a musical brunch (Latino and 80s music) in a more familyfriendly ambiance.

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FESTIVALS LA BÂTIE, 47 th EDITION

Any self-respecting Genevan has been at least once to La Bâtie. Born in the 1970s in Carouge, then held in the Bois-de-la-Bâtie nature park for many years, this free cultural festival features a wide range of multidisciplinary programming: music, theatre, dance, cabaret, circus, and more… The line-up is jam packed and runs from August 31-September 17. Enjoy at least 60 original (and often alternative) performances, just waiting to be discovered across multiple venues, including everything from stages to lawns. batie.ch

ENVIRONMENT GENEVA AIRPORT GOES GREEN

In late 2022, Geneva Airport embarked on a major adventure: over the next three years, the airport plans to be fully connected to the GeniLac hydrothermal system, dramatically diminishing its reliance on fossil fuels, and reducing its annual carbon footprint by 60%. This form of sustainable air conditioning — which is already being used by the UN, the IRIC, and the UNHCR — is powered by the water of Lake Geneva to both cool the city’s buildings and heat them (using heat pumps). The airport’s new East wing was specially designed to be directly connected. The GeniLac system will also power several neighbourhoods, positioning Geneva as a leading Swiss city in energy transition efforts.

gva.ch

PRIVACY is one of our menu options

Choose a journey that’s as incredible as your destination. Your own luxurious First Class Private Suite, gourmet fine dining served at any time, and soft leather seats that transform into a fully flat bed so you can drift off into a restful sleep. Everything you want from your holiday before you’ve arrived. Emirates First. Treat yourself emirates.ch

WATCHES DYNAMIC CHANGE FOR ZBINDEN

Fourth generation watchmaker Olivier Zbinden has announced a dynamic change for his family-owned boutique, which has been in operation since 1944. Located at 17 rue MontBlanc, it’s just a few steps away from the Geneva train station and sees almost 60,000 people pass by every day! Local clients and visitors from out of town can now expect to find six — and only six — prestigious watch brands in the boutique’s elegant and simply designed space. Discover the beauty of the boutique’s partner watch brands in a dedicated, welcoming, and custom-branded environment.

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GASTRONOMY ITALY IN THE HEART OF GENEVA

Discover the best of Italy without ever having to leave Geneva! Located at 11 Boulevard du Pont-d’Arve, the Saveurs d’Italie delicatessen is an essential stop for anyone who enjoys typical and traditional Italian products. Wine, charcuterie, cheese, and pasta await, in addition to numerous other Italian gastronomy delights, like a large selection of antipasti, directly imported from some of Italy’s best producers. As if that were not enough, it’s also possible to eat onsite (advance reservations required). The dining experience revolves around a table d’hôte menu, which features a selection of daily specials that are as fine and welcoming as Italy itself. Buon Appetito!

saveursditalie.ch

GASTRONOMY CHEESE YOU’D SELL YOUR SOUL FOR

The Halle de Rive indoor marketplace may remind you of Lyon’s Halles Paul Bocuse or Stockholm’s Östermalm, and it’s the perfect place to score some culinary treats. The Bruand cheese shop, located within the Genevan galleries, boasts over 300 different cheeses — including an exceptional stracciatella di bufala and a truffle brie. Don’t hesitate!

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SHOPPING CASA ANDREA PUTS THE CHIC IN THRIFTING!

Raphaëlle Lota, the founder of the Genevan concept store Casa Andrea, is passionate about table and home décor, antiques, and unique objects. Her boutique, located at 10 rue Verdaine, features brightly coloured decorative items, both vintage and contemporary, and a selection of artisan creations sourced from all over the globe. Notable highlights include Jessie Western’s beautiful cowboy boots, jewellery by Jacquie Aiche, and Maison Barrie’s knitted Scottish cashmere. Born to American and Egyptian parents, Raphaëlle tapped into her rich cultural heritage for a fusion of Native American, Middle Eastern, and new age designs for Casa Andrea. You’re sure to find something for everyone here!

casaandrea.store

Going with the flow in Geneva

Lake, river, and beyond

Text Claude Hervé-Bazin

Photos Geneva Tourism

Geneva was founded on the far west bank, just where Lake Geneva merges with the Rhône River. A prime location for dipping your feet in the water!

Strategically built where Lake Geneva lets out into the Rhône River, Geneva quickly became a centre for trade. First, for goods, and later, for ideas that helped transform the city into the tolerant, global, cosmopolitan, and everlasting icon it is today.

Seen from above, the large body of water glimmers comfortably in a wide basin between the Alps and the Swiss Canton of Jura: but is it Lac Léman or Lake Geneva? “That’s appropriation!” Vaud and Savoy residents may cry, enraged. Whatever you call it, Lake Geneva (as it’s known to English speakers) and Genfersee (for German speakers) puts Geneva on the map, even if they don’t call it “Lac Léman,” like the French speakers do.

LACUS LEMANUS

Lake Geneva may seem as big as an ocean (minus the salt, of course), but in reality, this landlocked lake is 581.3 km2 and 309.7 m deep — deeper than the Bassin de la Manche in France. The largest lake in Western Europe, Lake Geneva even has its own tides, albeit small, of around 4 mm. In the Canton of Geneva, most of the attention is fixated on the narrow section known as Petit-Lac, as opposed to the GrandLac, which is wide, deep, and used to be referred to as “Lake Lausanne” (in case things weren’t confusing enough already).

François Rabelais wrote that a giant named Gargantua made the lake to satisfy his thirst, but geologists think otherwise. They say the lake is a memory… the memory of the phenomenal Rhône Glacier, which, during the last ice age 15,000 years ago, covered the current location of the city in 700 m of seracs! But even if the lake’s appearance has since changed, this large basin is still mostly river water, which enters the lake at the edge of the Canton of Valais and exits in Geneva on the other side, before continuing its long journey to the Mediterranean Sea off the coast of France.

A SEA OF POSSIBILITIES

Where Lake Geneva ends is where the slopes of the city of Geneva begin. A kind of bottleneck, delineated by the Right Bank (home of luxury hotels) and the docks of the Bains des Pâquis, and the Left Bank (home of the Jet d’Eau) and the Eaux-Vives port and outdoor baths. Here, the slender Genevan water taxis known as mouettes, the historic CGN steamboats, leisure sailboats, and catamarans alike

The Rhône unifies more than it divides as the Alps tower in the background, reminding us of Geneva’s unique and privileged position at the crossroads.

all take to the water. And one can’t forget the Pierres du Niton (Neptune’s Stones), two large glacial erratics made of granite from Mont Blanc, which are remnants from the last ice age, left by the Rhône Glacier.

Baths to the north and beaches to the south… either way, we swim! We also stroll along the wide docks, meandering from patio to patio, accompanied by gulls, swans, and ducks. In the warmer months, the pop-up venues abound, often friendly and musical in nature. With a drink in hand, the Jardin Anglais and its iconic flowering clock beckon — a symbol of the city’s watchmaking traditions. Abundant sequoias, magnolias, and tulip trees surround the garden’s fountain, inspired by Neptune and built in 1863. The historic part of the city can be seen on a distant hill. It was on the top of that hill that medieval Geneva began, built up around the city’s cathedral. Seen from the summit of the 157 steps that lead to the cathedral’s bell, the city of 1 million Genevans unfolds below.

THE OUTLET

Geneva in Gallic means “orifice.” In Ligurian, it means “the place of water.” Lots of water has run under the Mont Blanc Bridge since it was built in 1862. It is Geneva’s outlet, a border of sorts, with the lake on one side, the Rhône on the other, and Rousseau Island near the middle. The island resembles a carinated piece of confetti and has a collection

of plane trees that cast shade over a statue of the philosopher (Jean-Jacques), who was born in Geneva. A walkway connects it to the pedestrian-only Pont des Bergues bridge. In autumn, thousands of starlings loudly gather here as they migrate south.

Downstream, there’s an old sand bank that’s simply known as L’Île (the island). A bridge here was destroyed by Julius Caesar in 58 BC to prevent the Helvetii advancement. Since then, other advancements have been made in this industrial area of the city. It’s home to Geneva’s former hydro power plant (which built the city’s first Jet d’Eau) and the Seujet Dam, complete with floodgates and a beaver-friendly fish ladder.

The Sentier du Rhône hiking trail unfolds on the quiet Left Bank. Here, nature dominates over concrete. Benches, lush lawns, and barbeques encourage taking a break while dipping your feet in the clear turquoise water, full of promise. On hot summer days, a few brave souls take the plunge and drift downstream on buoys, passing the Pointe de La Jonction, where the Rhône and the Arve (with its cold, cloudy waters) meet, and on to the Verbois Dam, 12 km further downstream. Keep an eye out for canvasback ducks, foxes, badgers, and kingfishers along the way!

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The calm, blue Rhône waters on the left, and the brownish, cloudy Arve waters on the right… they finally mix a few hundred meters past the “Pointe de la Jonction,” further downstream.

At the top of Geneva

One hundred metres

Text Daniel Bauchervez

Photos Geneva Tourism

Approach at your own risk (pro tip: an umbrella won’t save you). When sprayed at high force into billions of particles, the water of the Jet d’Eau becomes an all-encompassing cloud, as if you were standing in the middle of an urban Niagara Falls. If you want to experience the monstrous force of this water column up close, simply follow the boardwalk… and run the risk of getting wet. All it takes is a change of wind direction and you’re guaranteed a good soaking!

At the end of the 19th century, Geneva experienced an industrial boom. The population soared rapidly, as did their needs, so a hydro power plant was built along the Rhône, at La Coulouvreniere, to provide water for the city’s inhabitants. Demand fluctuated from day to day, and when the plant closed its doors at night the water supply lines were subject to pressure build up. So, an innovative safety valve was built that released the pressure in a powerful stream of water, and the Jet d’Eau was born.

The fountain’s 30-metre-high spray quickly became an attraction. When it was no longer necessary as a safety valve a few years later, the city chose to preserve it and moved it to a new location at the end of the Eaux-Vives pier, in the

heart of the bay. It could shoot up to 90 m high, with four lateral branches resembling a tree, and was illuminated for the first time on August 1st, 1891, to mark the 600th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation.

In 1951, the present Jet d’Eau was installed and designed to pump lake water instead of city drinking water, and the fountain since sprays at its current maximum hight of… 140 m! A record 7 tons of water and microscopic air bubbles are suspended within the plume at any given moment: A beautiful but technically complicated achievement. To reach such a height, 500 litres of water is shot every second out of a 16 cm-wide tube at almost 200 km/h, creating a plume that lasts for 16 seconds.

Dramatically dotting the Geneva skyline both day and night, the white halo of the Jet d’Eau only pauses its stream in cases of violent winds or freezing temperatures, when it might otherwise become a snow gun. Before 2003, the fountain was shut off for four months every year. Today, only five guardians — all volunteer retirees from the Services Industriels de Genève (Geneva industrial services) — watch over the fountain, ensuring its proper working order and operating hours.

As Geneva’s visual signature, the Jet d’Eau reigns over the bay, rising to 140 m and capturing the eyes of all visitors. Originally built in 1886, today this liquid monument has come to symbolize some of the city’s greatest ambitions.

International Geneva

The art of global living

Text Yannick Nardin Photos Geneva Tourism

Some numbers may help set the scene… Today, Geneva is home to no fewer than 750 NGOs, 52 international organizations, and the permanent representations of 179 member states. These entities employ thousands of people — around 32,000 to be more precise — as international officers, diplomats, and civil society representatives. Given those numbers, it should come as no surprise that these entities have also had (and still have!) a profound impact in shaping the city’s urban planning and local culture, all while upholding a steadfast commitment to peace and humanitarian action.

THE HUMANITARIAN REVOLUTION

Convincing governments to save all wounded soldiers, no matter who they fought for, was a radical idea. And yet that’s exactly what Genevan Henry Dunant suggested, after being shocked by the horrors of the Battle of Solferino (1859). A meeting was held in Geneva in February 1863: the blueprint for what would become the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC). Dunant was convinced action was needed in the field, and he proposed an international rescue entity to supplement military medical services. The Swiss government invited all European governments, as well as the United States, Brazil, and Mexico, to attend a diplomatic conference in August 1864: the First Geneva

Convention. The states who signed the convention were henceforth obliged to care for all wounded soldiers, regardless of whose side they were on. On the battlefield, the Red Cross symbol distinguished these brand-new medical service providers. It was a humanitarian revolution that planted the first seeds of what was to become a Genevan tradition.

During WWI, the ICRC carried out its designated duties. In 1919, the victorious countries chose Geneva as the headquarters for the International Labour Organization (ILO) and the League of Nations, the predecessor of the United Nations, which was founded later in 1945. In 1927, the Graduate Institute of International Studies (HEI) opened its doors, and a document from its opening ceremony states: “In the League of Nations, one doesn’t study humanities, one studies humanity! Our students understand the work that this entails in furtherance of world peace.”

THE FIRST FLUTTERS OF DIPLOMACY

An invaluable tool and a platform of utmost importance for Swiss Foreign Policy, International Geneva is forever bound to its role as a mediator in global diplomacy. Little known fact: during the 1979 Iranian Revolution, when 52 American diplomats and citizens were held hostage in the US embassy

The creation of the ICRC 160 years ago marked the start of Geneva’s humanitarian and international transformation. The city developed considerably after WWI and then began to diversify as new global problems took shape. International Geneva (or, as the Federal Department of Foreign Affairs would say, the “international interests of Switzerland through Geneva”) is a key player when it comes to global governance, and that reputation is only set to grow as the city continues to play host to international meetings with global implications.

in Tehran, the Swiss foreign ministry and its ambassador in Tehran, Erik Lang, acted as intermediaries between the two sides to negotiate a deal and free the captives. American President Jimmy Carter consulted him before his press conferences, along with the Swiss Ambassador to Washington, Franz Muheim. Switzerland’s role in the conflict fell under what is known as “good offices,” which as per the UN Charter refers to “all diplomatic and humanitarian initiatives by a third country or a neutral institution whose purpose is to resolve a bilateral or international conflict or to bring the parties to the negotiating table.” Switzerland’s good offices are a long-standing tradition and play a key role in Swiss peace policy.

HIGHLY CHARGED MEETINGS

As an authority in diplomacy — thanks to the tenet of Swiss neutrality — Geneva is where many important documents have been signed, beginning with the Geneva Conventions of 1949, which formed the foundation of international humanitarian law. But the city has also hosted many important political meetings, including meetings between three American Presidents (Carter, Bush, and Clinton) and their Syrian counterpart Hafez al-Assad, in an attempt to untangle conflicts in the Middle East. In 1985, Geneva also hosted the

first meeting between Reagan and Gorbachev to hold talks on the (nuclear) arms race. It was a historic moment that was sealed by a handshake — a key turning point in international relations. To mark the occasion, 3,000 journalists stayed in Geneva, solidifying the city’s (and country’s!) reputation as a host site for international diplomacy.

More recently, in 2021, the city welcomed Joe Biden and Vladimir Putin, for a meeting under ultra-high security. Barbed wire was erected around the entire Parc La Grange and the whole neighbourhood was blocked off, with military boats at the ready on the lake and military tanks on the ground. Putin described the meeting on Russian television as an opportunity to “re-establish personal relations [with Joe Biden, who had publicly referred to him as a ‘killer’], improve direct dialogue, and create functioning mechanisms around common interests.”

ONE QUALIFICATION ATTRACTS ANOTHER

The unique characteristics of Geneva International extend well beyond humanitarian and diplomatic efforts. Inextricably tied to many global issues, the city has affirmed itself as a pillar of authority for peace, security, disarmament, humanitarian action, law, the environment, and sustain-

able development. In addition, it is a yardstick for human and civil rights, and rights pertaining to migration, labour, economics, commerce, science and telecommunications and health. CERN (the European Organization for Nuclear Research) was built near Geneva in 1954 and the organization was responsible for the creation of the Internet in 1989. The World Economic Forum (WEF) has been headquartered here since 1973, in a beautiful building that overlooks the lake in Cologny. Ecological causes have also found fertile grounds in Geneva. When the Brundtland Report — which was the first to use the term “sustainable development” and launched the first Earth Summit — was presented to the UN General Assembly in 1989, the commission held numerous hearings in Geneva with NGOs, governments, and civilians about development and the environment as it relates to forests, energy, agriculture, and the transfer of technologies. Then, in 1988, the IPPC (Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change) took up headquarters in the city.

Today, there are also many new healthcare stakeholders who benefit from Geneva International’s position of authority, like the GAVI alliance, which was created to facilitate access to vaccinations for children in the world’s poorest countries, or the DNDi (Drugs for Neglected Diseases initiative),

a research and development organization that discovers, develops, and delivers treatments for neglected patients around the world.

INTERNATIONAL CITY PLANNING

On the north side of the city, near the Geneva airport, the neighbourhood known as “Nations” began developing as early as 1926 when the ILO (International Labour Organization) moved into the Centre William Rappard. It was the first structure in Geneva to be erected for international organizations, and the building is the currently the modern-day headquarters of the WTO (World Trade Organization). The Palais des Nations was built in 1936, preceding the 1973 formation of the International Conference Center Geneva (CICG) and, more recently, the Global Health Campus in 2018.

As one of the many places in Geneva that is worth a visit, the Place des Nations features the long Alley of the Flags, which displays the flags of the UN member states and leads to the entrance of the United Nations. This unique public square, now sandwiched between heavily used roads, bus routes, and tram lines, is still a highly strategic location that’s often the site of gatherings and installations. A monumental 12-metre chair, named the Broken Chair, balances

Installed in the Place des Nations in 1997, the Broken Chair, by Swiss artist Daniel Berset, was supposed to be a temporary exhibit in support of garnering signatures for the Ottawa Treaty, which forbids the acquisition, production, storage, and use of landmines.

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on three legs, the fourth broken. Commissioned from artist Daniel Berset by Handicap International, the wooden sculpture weighs 5.5 tons and is the symbol of the campaign against landmines. It also embodies a call to action; a reminder of the horrors of war for all the heads of state who visit Geneva.

THE EXPAT WAY OF LIFE

Around 32,000 international government officers live in Geneva, on top of the thousands of expats who are drawn to the city for its reputation as a hub for universities, research organizations, and its many multinational companies. The city also has a long banking history, and its important role in global commerce, trading, and finance (with some 500 trading companies calling the city home) attracts a multitude of talent from all over the globe. That expat influence can be felt throughout the city, notably in the educational sector, with a plethora of private schools that offer specialized curriculums for all kinds of international students. In 2020 alone there were 8,500 registered international students in the city (65% of which were enrolled in private schools).

This consequential segment of the local population has led to the development of all sorts of very specific leisure

Erected in 1939, just at the start of WWII, the Celestial Sphere (also known as the Woodrow Wilson Memorial Sphere) outside the Palais de Nations has come to symbolize international cooperation and the quest for world peace.

activities. In town, depending on which hobby you choose, you may be better off speaking English than French! Unofficially the second language in the city, English is the language of choice for communicating with non-French speakers — whether that’s in sporting clubs like Holmes Place, at the yoga studio, or even in one of the many CrossFit gyms. Certain groups and establishments specifically attract an expat population, like the frisbee club. This much-loved activity is popular with university students around the world, and is practiced by doctoral students, international lawyers and, and even CERN researchers.

Besides the NGO neighbourhood, other parts of town also live to the beat of an international drum, including Cologny, where many international VIPs have settled down in luxurious dwellings, and of course, Les Pâquis, the city’s most multicultural destination, strategically located between the lake and the NGO neighbourhoods in Sécheron. Expats, government officials, students, and born-and-raised Genevans all rub shoulders here when enjoying a swim or the sauna at Les Bains, a walk along the lake or in the park, or for dining at any of the restaurants that cater to all palates. All in the name of peace and humanity, of course!

Setting the standard in innovation

The Hotel Management School of Geneva may expect traditional looks like slicked back ponytails and well-groomed facial hair, but the preservation of these hospitality traditions doesn’t prevent this international institution from embracing the trends of the future.

The Hotel Management School of Geneva teaches students professional excellence

Text Yannick Nardin

Photos Rebecca Bowring | Patrice Moullet

The ICRC, UN, the United States and Turkish embassies… the high-calibre neighbours of the Hotel Management School of Geneva (EHG) all reflect the same international flair of the school itself. Specializing in dining and hospitality (and part of the GastroSuisse Federation), the school has been a fixture in the Genevan landscape since 1951, when it relocated to an elegant 18th-century villa on the shores of Lake Geneva. Its unique location allows the school to offer its services daily to the variety of NGOs, diplomats, hotels, and regional and international businesses in the surrounding area. But this highly international spirit goes hand in hand with strong family traditions, explains Susanne Welle, EHG’s Director. At this “gem of a school,” as she describes it, teaching is conducted in French — which is rare in the field — for all 200 students. While that may seem like a paradox, it’s actually a unique positioning that expertly balances time-honoured techniques and progressive movements.

HONOURING A LEGACY OF EXPERTISE

The hotel school industry is extremely competitive, but the EHG stands out by cultivating loyalty to traditions, as they combine the art of hospitality with the acquisition of managerial skills. The school’s curriculum — which culminates in a professional diploma after three years — includes obligatory courses in cooking, hospitality, and hotel room service. “Our agents appreciate that our students are masters of excellence,” explains Susanne Welle, who underwent her own formal training at a host of Swiss institutions. Students who wish to go above and beyond are also given multiple opportunities to further hone their skillset. “We also offer custom services like private events at our historic Vieux-

Two modern and light-filled pavilions house the school’s classrooms, which are equipped with the latest technologies.

Bois restaurant, receptions, cocktails, seminars in team building, workshops to increase both hard and soft skills, and oenological training.” These custom programs give EHG students a chance to refine their skills and know-how by working closely with a very demanding international clientele.

Training is split evenly across theory and practice. “The EHG prepares students to be able to enter the workforce immediately upon finishing their studies with our ‘plug and play’ model,” explained Susanne Welle. In fact, the EHG recently (in March 2023) established a close partnership with the Geneva Marriott Hotel, which acts as the school’s “initiation hotel.” Its director, Pierre-Henri Perrin, oversees certain classes of students, along with other true professionals in the field who also act as professors.

PREPARING STUDENTS FOR THE JOBS OF THE FUTURE

The school’s expertise in excellence means it also stays abreast of the latest trends, as Susanne Welle regularly introduces new internal training and collaborations with industry specialists. “We constantly engage with key players in the industry and current trends. For example, we currently have

Chef Stéphane Faval leads the kitchen for the Vieux-Bois restaurant, formerly the home of Rodolphe Töpffer, who is often credited as the inventor of comic strips.

a professor on staff who is trained in ChatGPT. We also benefit from precious, proprietary industry insights through our affiliation with GastroSuisse.” Other initiatives include the school’s “start-up bootcamps,” created about three years ago, in which students undergo two days of intensive training in innovative topics, and then present their learnings before a jury in a competition format. For their diploma thesis, students are asked to develop solutions for real-world businesses. “This idea is for our students to work with reallife companies, situations, and numbers. For example, in 2022, we asked students to propose internal catering and digitalization concepts for the Palexpo convention centre.”

This dynamism is complimented by a focus on small class sizes. “Our ‘human sized’ school means that every student receives individual attention,” clarified Susanne Welle. “We provide strategic guidance for all our students and help them find internships. Students also benefit from our large pool of alumni who are actively employed all over the world.” Yet another advantage of this sharp and dapper training program: while it may be a classically Genevan fixture, its influence extends well beyond the city’s borders.

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InterContinental Geneva

Reinventing the luxury hotel experience

Yannick

The InterContinental Geneva is legendary. Its walls are steeped in history, and it has played host to some of the planet’s most eminent stars and politicians, but the hotel has no intention of resting on its formerly intimidating laurels. Having recently revamped its services, the InterContinental now offers luxurious experiences for Geneva locals. Your poolside rendez-vous awaits!

Text

Nardin Photos Hôtel InterContinental Genève

Martin Luther King Jr., the Dalai Lama, Sophia Loren… many ultra-famous names have enjoyed a stay at the InterContinental, the 5-star hotel of Geneva’s NGO neighbourhood. Whether they are in town to give a speech, attend an important diplomatic meeting, or simply for pleasure, these visitors helped shape the hotel’s reputation from the moment it opened in the 1960s. And yet, the hotel is ever evolving, looking ahead instead of simply relying on its prestigious past to maintain its reputation. While carefully sustaining its well-deserved standing among diplomatic clients, who appreciate the hotel’s rooms as much as its reception halls, the hotel also developed a new offer in response to the recent pandemic, with the goal of encouraging Genevan residents to pass through its (monumental!) doors. Hans Heijligers, who has been the hotel’s Director since 2021, and his energetic teams have taken the hotel’s transparency to new heights across social media, have opened more of the hotel to the general public, and have expanded the hotel’s offerings to include new family-oriented services. These upgrades have all been carried out with the utmost care, resulting in an experience that is more luxurious than ever.

A MONUMENT THAT HAS TRAVERSED THE AGES…

The stature of the InterContinental is impressive. From the entrance, one’s eyes sweep up over 18 floors, the top of which offer the highest view in the city of Geneva. With 16

reception halls, 333 rooms, and 52 suites, the hotel’s architectural dominance is undeniable. Its most spectacular suite is The Residence, which can be expanded to take up the entire top floor and has welcomed many eminent guests, such as President Joe Biden. Among other luxurious amenities, it includes a gym and royal, marble bathtubs that look out over the Jet d’Eau. The hotel’s interior was renovated at the start of this millennium to the monumental tune of 42 million Swiss francs. New York designer Tony Chi, member of the Interior Design Hall of Fame, spearheaded the renovation efforts. In a throwback to the hotel’s original construction in 1964, when Pam Am’s personnel used to stay amongst the other jetsetters at the hotel, the décor boasts an authentically 1960s charm, with rare antiques hand-sourced by the designer from all four corners of the globe.

Completed in 2013, the renovations have allowed the hotel’s irresistible vintage charm to flourish. Wood, leather, glass, engraved metal from Parisian silversmith Maison Christofle… the space is a perfect blend of raw and finely worked materials. Every piece of furniture was chosen as an explicit part of the designer’s vision. “We regularly consult Tony Chi’s guidelines to ensure we are faithful to the spirit of his work,” explained Alexandra Devilly, the hotel’s Director of Communications and Marketing. The result can be felt the moment one sets foot in the lobby’s exceptionally large,

cathedralesque entryway. Here, the designer worked his magic to truly express the hotel’s (grandiose) personality in an ambiance that is delightfully 1960s and yet perfectly in vogue.

… AND STAYED IN THE HEART OF GENEVA LOCALS

As established as the InterContinental may be, Genevans still don’t hesitate to call it by its nickname, L’Inter “Everyone in Geneva has a story to tell about the InterContinental,” says Alexandra, smiling. “Whether they came here for a ball, a wedding, or a meal to celebrate special occasion, they always talk about an exceptional moment they’ll never forget. Today, after reimagining our offering, we are trying to make the InterContinental feel less intimidating by providing specific services meant for local people here in Geneva.”

Efforts to attract a local clientele include a sumptuous Sunday brunch, with fresh-pressed juice at the poolside bar, and special family-oriented services like a dedicated babysitter, so parents can enjoy a truly relaxing brunch moment. The famous hotel also offers an afternoon tea service accompanied by tantalising pastries, and an “Afterwork” special in the cosy wine bar, which is adjacent to the smoking room for those who wish to also enjoy a cigar. “We also revisited our poolside offering, which now features light, modern

Following the hotel’s renovation, the restaurant on the 18th floor has been replaced with The Residence, a suite that can expand up to 600m 2

The InterContinental pool is, and always has been, open to the general public.

Mediterranean cuisine,” explained Alexandra. “And in summer 2023, we will be offering a new ‘Chill and Rosé’ concept that combines pool entry, a glass of rosé, and a daily mezze special on weekdays, beginning at 16:00.”

The hotel’s modern, azure pool exudes tropical getaway vibes, and — as always — it’s open to the general public. The original guru of Genevan hospitality, Herbert A. Schott, understood the pool’s magnetic appeal from the moment he was hired in 1967, and saw it as an opportunity to increase the number of hotel visitors. Never short on ideas for attracting (and satisfying) new and existing clients, Herbert offered free pool entry by word-of-mouth to Geneva locals and employees at the United Nations and other local NGOs.

A LAKESIDE FIXTURE

As part of the initiative to attract more locals, the InterContinental also signed a 5-year partnership with the Bol d’Or Mirabaud in 2022. The event is the largest inland regatta in the world, has been held on Lake Geneva since 1939, and is also sponsored by the watch brand Tudor, Rolex’s sister company. The InterContinental additionally supports the Sailing Squad, the race’s only all-female team, and awards the special foiling monohull prize in real time.

The InterContinental’s new approach is shaped by a focus on abundant (and sustainable) luxury. Under the sharp eye of Marion Lozac’h, the Director of Quality, end-to-end attention to detail is more important than ever, down to the softness of the slippers, for ultimate luxury. On that note, the hotel’s brand-new Cinq Mondes spa features 4 luxurious treatment rooms, a hammam, a sauna, and a fitness room. The hotel also offers two loyalty programs: “Le Cercle Gourmet” for InterContinental dining and “IHG One Rewards” for stays at any of IHG’s 6,500 global hotels. And as far as sustainability goes, the hotel is committed to sourcing food locally, eliminating single-use plastics, and using lake water and renewable energy to cool the hotel’s facilities.

One thing is certain: the InterContinental is truly evolving. Under its slogan “Be part of the legend,” the establishment continues to bring joy and delight to every one of their guests and will persist in promoting its popularity among locals in Geneva. A perfect new clientele that compliments the many illustrious diplomats and celebrities the hotel has always attracted. Mr. Schott would approve.

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After directing the InterContinental Hotels Group in Japan, Hans Heijligers took the helm of the Genevan location in 2021. The establishment underwent a complete interior renovation and has beautifully maintained the charm of its original 1960s architecture and décor.

Herbert Schott

The magician behind the InterContinental

Text Yannick Nardin Photos Hôtel InterContinental Genève

The clichés speak for themselves, a testament to the high-profile stays to some of the greatest celebrities and politicians at the Intercontinental. Today, high-stakes negotiations and meetings are still on the establishment’s agenda, which is ideally located near several international organizations and embassies in Geneva. Diplomats from the USA, the EU, and the WTO still regularly use the hotel, and in 2021, Joe Biden stayed at the InterContinental while he was in Geneva to meet Vladimir Putin. The international reputation of the hotel was built over several decades by one key man: Herbert Schott. He began working at the hotel in 1967, and was the Director from 1981-2002, making him the real man behind the magic of the hotel’s reputation. Read on to discover more about the story behind his career.

“CARTE BLANCHE”

In 1967, young Herbert had a promising career ahead. Born in Cologne, Germany, the young man was barely 20 years old and had already worked in Paris, Rome, Madrid, and London. He was offered the Director position at a large hotel in Los Angeles, but, after carefully weighing his

In 2024, the InterContinental will celebrate 60 years of history, 34 of which were overseen by Herbert Schott, who made the hotel legendary by welcoming some of the world’s biggest names. His magic wand? His extraordinary sense of service and awareness.

Over the years, hotelier

became

Herbert Schott

an emblematic figure of the city of Geneva and rubbed shoulders with many exceptional men and women.

options — and in part to please his wife, who wanted to live in Europe — he chose the InterContinental Geneva and quickly become the Head of Reception.

Back then, the hotel was not particularly thriving, even though Martin Luther King Jr. had given a speech at the hotel during the 1968 “Pacem In Terris” conference. The Director at the time, Mr. Desbaillet, tasked Herbert with growing the hotel’s business across the diplomatic sector. “I was effectively given carte blanche to do it,” Herbert recalled in his memoir, entitled L’Hotelier. The young man drew up a list of all the personnel working at international organisations and invited them to visit the hotel, offering free entry to the newly built swimming pool if they took him up on his offer.

FAIRY GODMOTHER SOPHIA LOREN

The InterContinental was propelled into international fame that same year when actress Sophia Lauren decided to stay at the hotel. The actress was newly pregnant, and the Genevan specialist who cared for her prescribed 7 months of bed rest and a strict diet, which required food at regular intervals, even at night. Carlo Ponti, the star’s husband, confided in Herbert Schott that he couldn’t find lodging with the level of service the couple required. Herbert (of course) suggested the actress stay in one of the hotel’s fully equipped suites with staff to help care for her. During her stay, Sophia was visited by celebrities from all over the globe. The hotel provided both discretion and security, despite a tidal wave of journalists hoping to capture photos of the new baby, and the InterContinental’s grand reputation was born.

A HOT SPOT FOR DIPLOMACY

Around the same time, Herbert Schott was continuing to develop the hotel’s diplomatic client base. Willing to do whatever it took, he once even transformed a baggage storage room into a conference room in just a few hours, to accommodate a OPEP (Organization of the Petroleum Exporting Countries) delegation. From then on (and for more than 15 years), the hotel was the venue of choice for OPEP meetings and became the organization’s conference headquarters in 1976. Herbert even had the brilliant idea of creating 14 exactly identical rooms for each of the member state’s representatives.

Fidel Castro, Yasser Arafat, Bill Clinton, George H.W. Bush, Indonesian President Suharto, Colonel Gaddafi, FIFA President Gianni Infantino, Lady Diana… under Herbert’s leadership, and that of his successors, the InterContinental played host to the world’s biggest names and many crucial meetings, including Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev in 1985, the Dalai Lama and the Aga Khan in 1988, and even Bill Clinton and Hafez al-Assad in 1994. During such meetings, hotel security was meticulous, and the neighbourhood was usually closed off.

It was only in 2002 that Herbert Schott finally retired from the InterContinental, along with numerous regional Executive Boards and the Swiss hotel industry, saying he was “satisfied with my Genevan life and professional success, which all began as a baggage porter.”

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During their stays, the stars appreciated — and still appreciate — the hotel’s utmost discretion. One of Herbert Schott’s cardinal values.

RO OF TO PS

Discover Geneva from a different angle with a selection of rooftops and outdoor terraces that are worth a visit, day or night.

Text Isabelle Guignet

FOUR SEASONS IZUMI

A stunning view of the Rhône fourseasons.com

The Hotel des Bergues is home to one of Geneva’s greatest restaurants, Izumi. Built last winter on the top story of the hotel, Izumi’s gorgeous rooftop offers some of the most beautiful views of the city, the lake, and the river from on high. Here you can enjoy Nikkei, or Japanese Peruvian cuisine, which harmoniously and delicately blends two cultural approaches to seafood.

MET ROOFTOP LOUNGE

The banks of the lake on full display metropole.ch

Facing the Jardin Anglais and the Jet d’Eau, the Hotel Metropole is perfect for enjoying city views from a gorgeous location. Take in the 360° panoramas over the park and the banks of the lake at the MET Rooftop Lounge. Be sure to try an Apérol Swiss, a Swiss take on the Apérol Spritz that’s made with Baccarat, a fine and delicately sparkling Genevan chardonnay.

ROOFTOP 42

The spot for nightlife rooftop42.com

If you’re looking for a night-time party spot, Rooftop 42’s DJs have got you covered. More than a nightclub, the venue is also a bar-restaurant that boasts magnificent views of Geneva’s Jet d’Eau. This highly desirable location is perfect for an after-work cocktail while soaking in the city skyline and lakeshore. We highly recommend the truffle fries!

A dedication to eating well

Open tables on the horizon in Geneva

Text Isabelle Guignet Photos Guillaume Cottancin

Highly international, the city of Geneva has a lot to offer, and excellent food is no exception. From Michelin-starred establishments to small neighbourhood joints, there’s a plethora of options embracing exoticism, tradition, and innovation.

Boasting a score of 17/20 with Gault&Millau, the pure yet elegant cuisine by Chef Armel Bedouet at L’Aparté is reserved for small groups, as only 15 people are served at each seating.

SUBDUED AMBIANCE AND FINE PRODUCTS

It’s on the lower level of the luxurious Woodward Hotel that Joël Robuchon opened this theatrical dining experience, with 1* Michelin star, in a subdued ambiance of red and black. Perched on a trendy bar chair, one’s eyes devour the menu that was co-prepared with chef Olivier Jean, who has worked with the master chef for almost 10 years, after having earned his first stripes working with Alain Ducasse. The menu emphasizes fine products like blue lobster and langoustine, while shining a spotlight on delicately worked local ingredients — like produce from Potagers de Gaia, an organic market gardener located in Hermance, in the canton of Geneva. The flagship dish? Delicious Imperial caviar from Sologne, accompanied by crab and topped with a refreshing lobster aspic. A combination that is as elegant as it is excellent. And to beautifully finish your meal, don’t pass on experiencing the talents of pastry chef Titouan Claudet who specializes in Viennoiseries!

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BISTRONOMIC AND OH-SO-CHIC!

Not far from the Vieux Carouge district, at Acacias, L’Agape offers diners an unspoken promise. This intimate and welcoming bistronomic restaurant features a small but original menu of exceptionally tantalising dishes, brought to life by Chef Clément Thellier. Beef gravlax and Oscietra caviar with tarragon cream. Braised veal-and-rice-stuffed artichokes. Umami mackerel and black wheat pasta. Rossini-style beef rounds on house-made brioche. And to end on a sweet note, why not try the poached and coated pineapple, the chocolate banana, or the sweet potato and vanilla French toast? The restaurant’s remarkable décor creates a friendly and warm retro-chic ambiance. The vintage floor tiles, wall mirrors, and the large copper-pot chandelier combine to create a universe of distinctive style that’s beautifully complimented by wooden benches and chairs. It will make you feel right at home.

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AN INTIMATE, GOURMET EXPERIENCE AT THE BAR

Sachi is the new fine-dining concept restaurant by Mandarin Oriental, and the word is as gentle on the ears as its meaning: “happiness.” Here, diners are guided through an experience by Chef Mitsu, the head of this new Japanese establishment that opened last October. The true magic happens at the Omakase Bar, which means “I leave it up to you.” Trained by the master Nobu Matsuhisa (of Nobu restaurants, and chef at Izumi at the Four Seasons des Bergues for almost 10 years), Chef Mitsu carefully crafts dishes customized to please the palettes of his customers, using seasonal ingredients (from Geneva and beyond) adapted to their tastes. The ever-changing menu offers a surprise menu option of 6, 8, or 10 dishes. Hats off to the Wagyu beef sushi, the crayfish sushi that’s topped with French caviar, and the sauteed teriyaki mushrooms. It will all certainly excite your tastebuds!

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NORDIC-INSPIRED FUSION FOOD

A small Scandinavian haven inside the Ritz-Carlton Hôtel de la Paix, Geneva, Fiskebar captivates gourmet food lovers with its cuisine that’s sometimes iodized and sometimes fermented, rooted in the very best locally sourced ingredients. Nordic flavours are enriched at will with Mediterranean flair, resulting in truly unique fusion food that’s brought to life in dishes like the lobster roll, blue lobster and passatelli, or the French toast bites. Tables of 6+ receive the Nordic Experience menu of either 3 or 5 courses, which beautifully explore northern flavours. The large range of innovative and original cocktails from Fred by Fiskebar are a journey in of themselves, as is the impressive wine list, which includes numerous biodynamic options. The cherry on the cake is the décor, inspired by the best Scandinavian interior design, which is sure to seduce with its welcoming and comforting ambiance.

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KA/NOA, 100 % Made in Italy

Simple, elegant, durable and practical

Text Daniel Bauchervez

Photos KA/NOA

“Made for humans by humans. Only in Italy,” that’s the KA/NOA motto. Founded by an Italian on the shores of Lake Geneva in 2017, it’s a stylish yet no-nonsense clothing brand whose timeless basics are of the highest quality and are built to last. Meant for every occasion, KA/NOA’s pieces go where you go, from your closet to your hotel room, or from your work meeting to a night out with friends.

KA/NOA’s origins are intimate and unpretentious. “I wasn’t really finding what I wanted on the market, so I created my own wardrobe,” explained Bruno Grande, the brand’s founder. “Each design has its own name, making it part of our family. And family is extremely important to me,” he added. Even the brand name has a close family tie-in: it comes from his children’s names, KAIA & NOAH.

KA/NOA is slow-wear fashion at its best. Trendy yet timeless, intimate, elegant, and practical. The colours are contemporary yet understated, with no patterns, and never in bad taste, as embodied in items like the fitted Conrad

L-R: Bruno Grande, the Founder of KA/NOA, with Genevan writer Joel Dicker, a long-time family friend and brand ally.

shirt, with its inverted “KA/NOA” collar. The brand’s garments are comfortable, crease-resistant, and all meticulously designed to match every other piece in the collection. An ideal solution for quick, easy packing sans faux pas.

FROM WATCHMAKING TO FASHION

But why fashion? For Bruno Grande, the choice seemed obvious. Working at Swatch Group in 2000, he had built his career in watchmaking. But the Piedmont native’s father was a couture tailor and Bruno had inherited his father’s passion for beautiful fabrics, chalk, and scissors. That paternal influence compelled Bruno to leave watchmaking and return to his origins, with a brand name that’s an homage to his family heritage. “In Italian, the name also evokes one means of slow transportation, the canoe. I love the idea of setting sail, the sensation of traveling, and intentionally taking your time to do things so they can be done well. That’s the essence of our manifesto.”

THE SLOW-WEAR MOVEMENT

The antithesis of fast-fashion, KA/NOA’s niche, ready-towear garments are as chic as they are responsible. The brand embodies an authenticity and nostalgia reminiscent of the slow food concept. KA/NOA clothing was born as an anthem to time and a desire to slow down. A personal response to the ephemeral nature of fashion and the superficial tendencies of our modern world.

“It’s a philosophy,” clarified Bruno Grande, who insists on designing and producing every component of his garments in Italy. Fabrics, buttons (in pearl and horn), zippers… all of it is Italian made, from the thread to the labels. The idea seemed crazy to the Italian consultants who were hired for the project, but the brand ultimately came to life through artisan relationships built on trust and friendship. Take Fratelli Tallia di Delfino for example, a fabric manufacturer founded in 1903 just 50 km from the Matterhorn, who specializes in avant-garde and ultra-highquality wool. A family story lies behind every element of the KA/NOA collection, and by partnering with these businesses, the brand is also preserving Italian traditions that may otherwise be lost.

Little by little, KA/NOA is solidifying its niche with 5 boutiques in Lausanne, Crans-Montana, Zurich, Verbier, and Geneva (a few more to open soon). Online sales are strong, “but you need to feel it to truly understand,” says Bruno. The “whispered luxury” of the brand is already having a ripple effect across the industry and has been spotted on the likes of long-time customer, and Swiss novelist, Joël Dicker. “The result of an authentic and beautiful friendship,” added Bruno. We think it’s safe to assume that “best seller” status is just around the corner.

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Luxurious, discreet, timeless, and relaxed… the perfect KA/NOA combination. This family affair was named after the Founder’s children: Kaia and Noah (pictured here).

NIGHTS AT LA PERLE DU LAC

The 15th edition of CinéTransat will take place July 13-August 20, in the timeless La Perle du Lac park, facing Lake Geneva. The concept? Bring your picnic, get comfortable on the grass or in a lounge chair, watch the sun go down, and let yourself be whisked away by the story of the day, projected on a large, inflatable movie screen. Shorts and features, Swiss and international productions, blockbusters and underground films… there’s something for everyone. This highly interactive event often opens with a lively musical performance that’s enough to get your feet tapping. Come enjoy the experience!

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URBAN LIFE LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL

You dreamed it, but Geneva actually did it! So that everyone can soak in the summer sun, the municipality has made hundreds of lounge chairs available (for free) in many the city’s parks for the months of July and August. You can even find them on the Quai Gustave-Ador, on the left bank of La Rade Lake. Expect other fun activities as well!

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ENVIRONMENT CITY REVEGETATION IN FULL SWING

As a way of contributing to the fight against climate change, the city of Geneva has adopted an ambitious revegetation strategy, which is complimented by several other city-wide programmes designed to favour biodiversity in the city’s urban green spaces. Notable highlights include the landscaping of forested corridors that will allow different species to move around and interact, while also reducing urban heat islands during the hot summer months, fixing atmospheric CO2, and helping attenuate city noise.

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ACTIVITY CUT LOOSE WITH AXE THROWING

The discipline, launched in Great Britain and Poland in 2016, is now making waves in Switzerland. Simply aim for your target as if you were shooting a bow and arrow, except you’ll be using a hatchet. And you don’t need to be a butcher or a strongman to give it a go! The sport even boasts its own leagues and federations. In Geneva you can join in the fun at Axvetik in Eaux-Vives (17-21:00 Tues-Fri, 11-21:00 Sat, and 14-18:00 Sun). The cost is 80 francs for three people max. per group.

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P T

Karine Bauzin’s window to the world: A kind and curious perspective

Text Daniel Bauchervez Photos Karine Bauzin

Above: Jacqueline, May 14, 10:35, at the entrance of Genève-Plage, excited to return to her cabin for a new season. Below: Jean-Pierre, Georges, Nicolas and Georges, June 4, 2022, 16:50, at the beginning of their 6th hand of Jass.

June 29, 14:10, a slice of watermelon to beat the 33°C heat… August 25, 15:48, a team of card players in Dalton mode

August 25, 16:02, lakeside, meeting at the 3-metre diving board

May-September 2022, excerpts from the summer season at Genève-Plage

At the age of 20, just when life and one’s desires begin to take shape, Karine Bauzin suffered from a ruptured aneurysm. “I found myself unable to communicate, but my sadness gave me a chance to discover my calling, as that’s how I fell into photography. It was an ideal medium for expressing my vulnerability through imagery, while also allowing me to explore my interest in other people,” she said.

THE GUIDING LIGHT OF RAYMOND DEPARDON

The origins of Karine’s reinvention began with a revelatory encounter with none other than the legendary Raymond Depardon. The French photographer, who is a founding member of Gamma agency (a talent hothouse in the 1970s and 1980s), introduced her to the world of photojournalism and passed on his love for “intensely simple and authentic” photography. Little by little, the excitement of covering current news gave way to a desire to explore deeper reporting, often unfolding over the span of weeks, months, and even years, in order “to fully immerse myself in my projects, explore all their angles, and develop my vision over time.” By stepping back from the moment at hand, Karine’s perspective of the world began to take shape.

Working mostly “by instinct,” Karine enjoys chasing down what she calls “the absurdities of our daily lives.” Unconventional or beautiful, it doesn’t matter. “It’s about transmitting an emotion and being thought-provoking.” It’s not about seeing, it’s about feeling. Navigating the sea of human emotions, in search of what brings us all together, Karine brings an element of social reporting into her photography. A way of seeing the world that’s further reinforced by her involvement in Regardirect, a Swiss collective that’s heavily focused on documentary photography.

“Field reporting provides special access to a wide variety of situations, many of which are inaccessible to most peo -

ple. Diving into these unknown worlds only deepens my curiosity and my desire to share these stories. Living in and capturing these unique moments allows me to explore a thousand and one different lives… it’s magical.”

TIME AFTER TIME

Whether shot in colour or in black and white, the camera reveals the “other dimensions” of what is otherwise fleeting intimacy. Take for example Mémoires d’une pandémie, a documentary she co-directed in 2022 with Audrey Leclerc. Audrey filmed the interviews in colour while Karine shot portrait stills in black and white, “to leave a trace of and tell the story of how it affected all of our lives, in love, society, and economics.”

Among Karine’s more long-term projects is her What time is it?, which began over a decade ago and explores our relationship with time via candid photos of people telling her what time it was. Over the years, “technology rose to the forefront, with smart watches or phones being used to check the time,” explains Karine. It’s a way of tracing society’s evolution while also exploring questions about our urgencies and what we consider down time. The work is viewable in an exhibit that’s on display all summer (June 1-September 10) at the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie at the Pont de la Machine building.

Ever the humanist, Karine is also exploring two other ongoing projects: one dedicated to medical emergencies, and the other — a bit lighter yet no less profound — about the people who own beach cabins, “a kind of urban oasis,” she says. Social ties and the universality of human connections are what jump out of the images, which all revolve around “their attachment to these 2 cubic meters.” The project won the 2023 Swiss Press Photo Award in the Daily Life Category and will eventually be published as a book.

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With her Leica in hand, photographer Karine Bauzin explores the worlds of humanity through her images that capture states of mind, situations, or even entire lifetimes unfolding in the streets or, like here, around the beach cabins.

The waters of Lake Geneva, long since settled, are uncommonly pure. The perfect excuse to take an invigorating dip at Eaux-Vives.

Time for a swim

Geneva: Where Life’s a Beach

Text Daniel Bauchervez Photos Geneva Tourism

Living in Geneva goes hand in hand with jumping in the water, whether from a dock, the sand, the stones, or the grass. When it’s cold, many spas await to warm you up, while the summer months encourage soaking in the city (and its many pop up bars) from the lake or the Rhône River.

Just north of Genève-Plage, the Quai de Cologny boasts a large, circular dock made of oakwood, which makes it easy to swim. The largest of its kind in the world!

When packing your suitcase, make sure you don’t forget a swimsuit. Why? For a dip at Pâquis, of course (see full article for details). It’s the perfect introduction to the city and a fantastic way to meet locals of all ages while taking in the outdoor bath’s charmingly retro bay setting, not far from the Jet d’Eau.

RIVE GAUCHE (THE LEFT BANK)

Hop on a mouette (water taxi) and you can visit the other bank, where Genève-Plage proposes an Olympic-sized pool, a kiddie pool and four hectares of grass for picnics and sunbathing. Bask in the easy-going atmosphere amongst the blue and white changing cabins, a water slide, diving board, beach huts (paillottes), and beach volleyball. This is where, at the end of summer, thousands participate in La Traversée de la rade, a 1.8 km untimed swim that ends in Pâquis. The clear water here beckons as soon as the thermostat hits 20° C. Add in the windsurfers and paddleboarders and you could think you were at the seaside!

Too crowded? Check out Le Bain Bleu, which boasts two stacked pools that each have something unique to offer: downstairs, a cubist architecture made of rough concrete that features waterfalls; upstairs, a wide panoramic pool with small alcoves, massage jets and lounge chairs that look out over the lake and the Jura region. Perfect for pool parties! Le Bain Bleu offers unlimited pool time during the week and also features a cavernous and mysterious spa, with a gorgeous, glowing pool.

On the other side of the Port-Noire marina lies the Plage des Eaux-Vives. Modernized in 2020, it unfolds over 1.5 hectares of soft grass and 4 pebble-covered beach coves. Children are right at home here, easily finding their footing on the gentle slope of the small, sand-covered “Baby Beach.” In the summer, bikes, flip-flops, strollers, and scooters abound along the 400 meters of lakeside terrain. And just a stone’s throw away lies a long dock, where food and drinks to-go encourage long days of lounging, all while taking in views of the iconic, liquid sculpture of the Jet d’Eau as it shoots into the Geneva skyline.

There is Verbier and there is Zermatt. Two Swiss icons in the mountains. An invitation to discover these resorts from an intimate angle, a collection of desires, sporting effervescence and endearing personalities.

ENJOY A POP UP “BUVETTE”

Running alongside the bay and through the Eaux-Vives marina, the large Gustave-Ador dock welcomes motorboats, sailboats, and children’s mini electric boats alike. And from early June to early September, La Canopée springs into action. This covered structure offers free morning sports and activities, along with a smattering of hammocks, a pop-up bar, and a food truck… the only thing missing is you and your bocce balls!

The entire area comes to life when the seasonal “buvettes” open their awnings. Facing the Jet d’Eau pier, Bronzette touts Happy Hour, gelatos, potted palms, sun umbrellas, and waterfront deckchairs for perfecting your tan. Concerts, stand-up, magic shows; there’s always something to see here. Just next door, get a taste of the Dolce Vita at the Glacier du Jet d’Eau, where the swans eagerly await your breadcrumbs! A few steps away, the white Bateau Genève has been converted into a social integration welcome centre, complete with a summer buvette and occasional concerts. Just past the Jardin Anglais, where the lake becomes the river again, Les Jardins du Rhône is yet another watering hole deserving of a visit.

Continuing along the riverbank, you’ll find tapas and fondue at Bateau-Lavoir (which floats!), or cocktails and deckchairs at La Barje. Alternatively, take in the white sun

umbrellas, cocktails, local beer and wine, lunch specials, sunny Happy Hours, and a large pop-up stage at L’Estivale from May-September, at the Quai du Rhône.

FROLIC IN THE RHÔNE RIVER

While the lake is extremely popular, the river tends to attract a more select crowd. Nothing beats a swim in the icy river on the hottest days of summer! And although jumping from the Sous-Terre bridge is forbidden (albeit still done), floating downstream in the river is perfectly allowed. Swimming against the current can quickly be exhausting but climb aboard a paddleboard or inner tube and it’s a whole different story! Some people float downstream for hours, surrounded by nature, until they reach the Verbois dam. Besides swimming, another popular way to beat the heat is to hang a hammock amongst the tree-lined riverbanks.

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There are many creative ways to explore Geneva: why not take a stand-up paddleboard and feel the Jet d’Eau’s spray from the water?

The Bains des Pâquis

A poetic waterfront delight

Text Marie de Pimodan

Geneva Tourism

From the beach, one looks out over the lake’s smooth waters, as far as the eye can see. From the water, one looks back on the pools, diving board, and the bar that faces the city and the Jet d’Eau, in full sun, sheltered from the Northern winds. Located along the jetty, the Bains des Pâquis has been a timeless and unmissable Genevan darling since its founding in 1872. Originally built of wood, the baths were reconstructed out of concrete in 1932, and their clean, functional, and simple lines are still as fresh as the day they were built. Although much time has passed, the baths remain as epic as always, making them a unique destination in the city of Geneva; an eternally friendly port of call that holds a special place in the heart of every Genevan citizen.

Locals love the baths for many reasons, but above all for their stunning location. For nearly 150 years, the jetty has offered superb views of the city and Lake Geneva. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a break or daydream, at any time of day. Whether you’re an artist or a banker, a businessman or a dandy, with your family or amongst friends, the baths are the ideal spot to soak in the sun or enjoy a leisurely dip in the water. In addition to the views, the baths also boast two mixed gender saunas, a Turkish bath, and two hammams (one of which is reserved for women). This is the place to go if you’re looking for an endless summer ambiance or a welcome escape from the stresses of everyday life.

And while you can swim any time of year — even in winter, when part of the area is covered to make space for seasonal fondue dinners — the space truly comes to life in the warm, summer months. Towel-wrapped swimmers catch up over a drink, a salad, or the daily special, which is usually delicious. The swans rule the roost, while the ducks meander about. Sunkissed skin, the smell of sunscreen, and the sounds of laughter and splashes pepper the air. And whether you perch on the pebbled beaches, the wooden decks, in the shade of a tree, or even directly on the hot concrete, the ambiance is always delightfully relaxing. At dawn, between 6-7:00 in the morning, the Bains des Pâquis even hosts the occasional summer concert. These “musical sunrises” are a moment of pure magic for early risers. On the other hand, it’s also the perfect evening spot for happy hour or an outdoor dinner. In short, it’s the quintessential place to escape, relax, and enjoy a moment in good company. And adorning the highest diving board, one word in giant letters sets the tone of the Bains des Pâquis better than perhaps any other: poésie (poetry).

The Bains des Pâquis

Quai du Mont-Blanc 30, 1200 Genève

Summer Hours for food and drink service: 7:00-23:00

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In the middle of the lake, up against the jetty that splits the Genevan shoreline, the Bains des Pâquis emerges as an invitation to daydream and relax.

This friendly, authentic, and popular destination is a favourite summer escape for Genevans.

The Bains des Pâquis, the diving board, and the Jet d’Eau make for an unforgettable afternoon that’s quintessentially Genevan.

With wind in your sails

Geneva on the path to the America’s Cup

Text Claude Hervé-Bazin

Photos Loris Von Siebenthal | Mario Schoby, Red Bull Content Pool | Samo Vidic, Alinghi Red Bull Racing

It all started in 1872, when the Société Nautique de Genève was founded. The yacht club’s early members initially focused on rowing and Italian-style water festivals in the bay. Then a few motorboats and sailboats came along, and boating officially took off in 1903, with the creation of the Section de la Voile, which was later renamed Cercle de la Voile.

In the early 1930s, the SNG dropped anchor at Port-Noir, near the new Genève-Plage facilities, and is still there to this day. Its solitary Art Deco building is two steps away from the Olympic-sized swimming pool and faces the marina, which has grown from 200 to 1,000 places. The mid-1960s saw the rise of single-handed sailing, which led to the creation of a fourth section of the SNG. Monohulls, multihulls… Lake Geneva has since seen all kinds of boats, many that are more accustomed to salty waters.

THE BIGGEST LAKE REGATTA IN THE WORLD

Excellence and athletic performance are at the heart of the SNG. Now, more than 150 years after its founding, this institution is the biggest yacht club in Switzerland, with over 4,000 members. That being said, the private club is very selective and only allows new members through co-opt.

Calm seas make poor sailors, goes the expression… but who really needs the ocean to become a great yachtsman, when Lake Geneva is big enough to do the trick? Geneva might be surrounded by mountains, but people here know how to tack and take down sails.

Sailing on the Lake

Feel the freshness of the lake on a hot summer day. A mix of aquatic notes, crumpled leaves and solar amber. An olfactory ambiance that will make you sail along the wild shores of Lake Geneva.

The club also organises very ambitious events, like the Translémanique en Solitaire (Aug. 26), la Semaine de la Voile (June 26-30), and, the club’s flagship event, the Bol d’Or Mirabaud (June 9-11). First sailed in 1939, the race is sponsored by Mirabaud bank and the watch brand Tudor (in partnership with the InterContinental Geneva Hotel) and is the world’s largest freshwater regatta. Some of the planet’s best sailors are among the participants, which numbered more than 400 in 2022. There are locals like Christian Wahl, nicknamed the “Sorcerer of Lake Geneva,” who had already won the race seven times, and won again for the 8th time in 2022 at the helm of Ville de Genève, accompanied by youth in training from the CER (Centre d’Entraînement à la Régate). There are also prestigious guests, like Loïck Perron, and multihulls. Multihulls of every kind, and even a few UFOs, because, yes, the Bol D’Or is more than a race. It’s a catalyst, a laboratory where naval architects and engineers can put their ambitions for excessive speed to the test. The 2022 edition saw the new hydrofoil TF35 catamaran fly at 25 knots, thanks to a late gust of wind towards the end of the race…

A LABORATORY FOR EXCELLENCE

Lake Geneva is no stranger to being used as a sailing test laboratory… with the adventure of Alinghi serving as hard proof. Launched in 1990 by Swiss businessman Ernesto Bertarelli, who loves sailing, team Alinghi also has seven Bol d’Or Mirabaud wins to its name. Even more impressive, however, is that they successfully became the first European team to win the mythical America’s Cup – the oldest

competition in international sport, which only takes place every four years – not just once, but twice in a row, in 2003 and 2007! Their double win encouraged the emergence of new generation of passionate Swiss skippers, who are now considered some of the best in the world.

Bertarelli and his team have every intention of trying to repeat their achievements again in 2024 in Barcelona, for the 37th edition of the race. In close partnership with Red Bull Racing, and supported by watchmaker Tudor, this time team Alinghi will be led by Austrian Hans-Peter Steinacher. Steinacher is a double Olympic Champion in Tornado sailing from the early 2000s, who then moved on to high-level sailing as the leader of the Red Bull Extreme Sailing Team in the spectacular (and sadly, now defunct) Extreme Sailing Series. Steinacher has one key goal in mind: Tap into the new generation of Swiss skippers who are masters of the hydrofoil’s secrets in general, and specifically, masters of the AC75 foiling monohull, which first hit the race circuit in 2021. This new protocol resembles a Formula 1 rule for streamlined seas, with larger hydrofoils enabling earlier flight and potential speeds of up to 50 knots! And therein lies the challenge: set new seawater speeds… and let fly, proudly, yet once more, the Société Nautique de Genève’s banner.

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The 13-member Alinghi team has left a significant mark on Swiss sailing history, winning several multihull monotype races, led by co-skipper Arnaud Psarofaghis (4th from the left) and tactician Nicolas Charbonnier (5th).

The Maison de l’Économie, headquarters of the Geneva Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Services, is just two steps from Victoria Hall.

Text Claude Hervé-Bazin

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Founded in 1865, the Geneva Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Services is part of the historic and elegant Maison de l’économie, which looks a bit like a prosperous and discreet bank building. But it’s not a public service — the CCIG is a private and independent organisation that acts as a key government interlocutor in the Genevan economy.

CCIG, the

anchor of the Genevan economy

Geneva Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Services

Photo MezPhotographie

THIS IS VERBIER.

THE MOST IMPORTANT BUSINESS NETWORK IN THE CANTON

Its mission? “To enlighten the cantonal and federal governments with information, to formulate requests and suggestions (…) and to disseminate our principles of free enterprise,” specified banker and politician Ernest Pictet when the association was founded. The CCIG spearheaded the creation of the Geneva Freeport (1887), the École de Commerce (1888), and the Alliance des Chambres de commerce suisses (1956), all of which work to limit customs tariffs, support the creation of an office of certification of origin, and always favour regional and cantonal transportation.

Today, the organisation works towards assuring a strong and lasting Genevan economy. The CCIG makes itself heard through voting campaigns and by improving conditions for town planning, energy, fiscal policy, and transportation, all while favouring exchange, meetings, and the promotion of its 2,500 business members, which represent some 133,000 jobs. The CCIG also supports its members through market analyses, economic intelligence resources, and its export services that facilitate customs formalities by promoting best practices, digitalisation, and sustainability.

A WIDE RANGE OF BUSINESSES

Over time, the CCIG council has evolved from initially encompassing watchmaking and banking — the original local economic drivers — to also include foundry, tobacco, and tanning trades. These then gave way to other industries like chemicals, pharmaceuticals, and information technology. So who makes up the Chamber these days? Lots of small and midsize enterprises, “the backbone of our economy,” explains Vincent Subilia, Director General of the organization. Among them are Banque Pictet (founded in

1805!), Banque Cantonale de Genève (1816), the CGN (1873), and numerous international companies headquartered (or not) in the canton, like large-scale fragrance producers Firmenich and Givaudan, the leader of maritime transport MSC, and beyond. The CCIG also includes other innovative businesses making history, like the legendary CERN (which was responsible for the creation of the Internet), Dreamscape (aka the Artanim Foundation), which is associated with Steven Spielberg’s studios, and ID Quantique, a leader in quantum cryptography.

KEY EVENTS

For more than a decade, the CCIG in collaboration with the city of Geneva, has awarded the Genevan Prix de l’économie (Economic Prize), the Prix de l’innovation (Innovation Prize), and, since 2021, the Prix de l’égalité (Equality Prize).

And while those awards generate great visibility, the largest event of 2023 is the 13th World Chambers Congress, taking place June 21-23 at the Palexpo Convention Center. Co-organized by the CCIG and the World Chambers Federation — which represents 42 million companies across 120 countries — it’s “the most important CCIG event in our 158year history” said Vincent Subilia, who adds that it’s an ideal setting for promoting Swiss know-how. The agenda includes over 40 workshops and conferences, 80 keynote speakers, and 1,500 participants from 80 different countries, including key representatives from the OECD, the UN, and the WTO. This edition’s central theme is Achieving peace and prosperity through multilateralism. Vincent Subilia adds, “Geneva is the cradle and bastion of multilateralism, a rare and precious resource that makes up the very core of Geneva’s spirit.”

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F.P. Journe

Watchmaking freedom and mastery

Geneva is like heaven on earth for watch lovers, a breeding ground for small and large brands, some of which are practically institutions like Rolex and Patek Philippe. Here, “outsider” FrançoisPaul Journe, a talented master watchmaker from Marseille, figured out how to make a name for himself. His creations, which are as rare as they are consistently excellent, strike a special chord for collectors.

Text Yannick Nardin Photos F.P. Journe

What’s the international recipe for making a luxury watch?

A sprinkle of innovation, a large pinch of tradition, and lots of aesthetics, without forgetting the expert know-how and the technology of course! In practice, each watchmaker experiments with their own spin on the recipe, adjusting to suit their particular goals and preferences. And François-Paul Journe makes no secret of his: it’s the 18th century that makes him tick, an era when Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon and Antide Janvier invented double pendulum clocks, also known as Resonance clocks. This rich heritage provides ample inspiration for François-Paul Journe, who works to both preserve and revive that history, in his quest to innovate, safeguard, and perhaps even surpass the high expectations of luxury watchmaking. As a true defender of history and watch culture, in 2015 he even acquired Jean-Claude Sabrier’s specialized library at auction for CHF 760,000; a testament to his commitment.

FROM MARSEILLE TO GENEVA

François-Paul Journe must have been born under a lucky watchmaking star in 1957, because by the age of 14 he was

already so passionate about watchmaking that he left his hometown of Marseille for Paris, where his uncle then taught him the art of restoration. It was an opportunity for Journe to restore some of history’s greatest treasures to their former glory. But the young man had big dreams and even bigger ambitions... After becoming a master watchmaker and designer, Journe created movements for other watch brands until he decided he was ready to establish his very own watch brand in Geneva.

His time had come. Journe was finally ready to fully develop his passion and reveal his artistic vision to the larger public, with innovative timepieces that act as “the link between the golden age of horological science and contemporary watchmaking.” In 1999, François-Paul Journe launched the first Tourbillon Souverain with a remonteur d’égalité in wristwatch form — the first of many exceptional designs to come. The watchmaker also unveiled a collection of chronometers that were signed “F.P. Journe — Invenit et Fecit” (Latin for “invented and made,” which certifies each piece is an entirely original conception by Journe and composed with rigorous

A.R.T. stands for “Authenticity, Rarity & Talent,” the foundation of F.P. Journe’s philosophy, which unfolds across all his creations, from the watches (inside and out) and beyond to his immersive, brand-dedicated boutiques. On the right the Automatique Calibre 1300.3.

craftsmanship). His name thus became an iconic brand, and he became known as one of the world’s best contemporary independent watchmakers.

FREEDOM AND FINE WATCHMAKING

Master watchmaker François-Paul Journe remains at the head of the brand as its eternal guardian. He rigorously supervises the development of all components, designing each watch like a work of art that expertly marries creativity with technological know-how. With the utmost respect for tradition, Journe integrates innovative materials like tantalum and aluminium to create exceptional mechanisms, like the FCC, for example, which stands for Francis-Ford Coppola (with whom he developed the concept), and which features a hand with animated fingers to indicate the hours.

François-Paul Journe knew that independence was the only way to guarantee total creative freedom. That’s why he still produces almost every single component required for making his watches, including the movements, cases, and dials. He has since achieved much notoriety and won many awards in

recognition of his extraordinary work. François-Paul Journe is the most awarded watchmaker of the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix, and, in 2006, the French Minister of Culture named him a Knight of the Order of Arts and Letters.

F.P. Journe watches are in high demand, and when they go up for auction they are listed as the headliners (and have been for years), along with other big-name brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe. Producing only around 900 pieces each year, F.P. Journe’s watches are rare and enduring, equipped with exceptional complications that are highly sought-after by collectors. In May 2023, Christie’s held an auction to celebrate François-Paul Journe, featuring 40 of his watches — a unique moment in horology history. The star of the show was his Tourbillon Souverain from 1999, which sold for CHF 2,707,000. Despite this success and recognition, the watchmaker is wary of profiteering, and continues to steadfastly apply his philosophy of minimal marketing, and maximal watchmaking value.

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A picnic in the park

Exploring Geneva’s green spaces

While Geneva is built on the water, it’s also a very green city. The many parks play an essential role in the local quality of life, covering 20% of the municipal area. Much more than simple decor, the parks create space for strolls, picnics, movies… and golf!

Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photo Valentin Del-Nista

The numbers say it all: 310 ha of green spaces, 70 ha of forests, 40,000 trees and as many roses… Geneva is certainly not short on chlorophyll! Distinctly local, many of the 60-some parks — which were bequeathed to the city by prominent 19th century families — contain remarkable villas and trees. Ever eco-conscious, the city has banned the use of chemicals in the parks and actively works to sustain their biodiversity.

GRASS, TREES, VILLAS, AND VIEWS

Hop on a shuttle boat (mouette) at Pâquis, change boats in Port-Noir, and head towards the Right Bank (rive droite), one of the most beautiful green spaces in Geneva. Here, five continuous parks encircle the famous Perle du Lac, with views of the bay, the Jet d’Eau, Mont Salève, and the Alps. Between the vast lawns, flower beds, and tree-lined pathways are several 19th-century mansions, maintained by various museums and institutions. There’s Hotel Mon Repos, where Hans Christian Andersen and François Châteaubriand stayed; the magnolia-shade of the Villa Moynier, which welcomed Madame de Staël and Queen Victoria; the neo-Florentine Villa Bartholoni with its large tulip tree; or even the pink Villa Barton, surrounded by its own mini forest of Californian redwoods.

The nearby Botanical Gardens double as a conservatory (with 3 million seed reserves), on 28 ha between the park and the United Nations. The first in Switzerland, it contains 14,000 plant species that are all organically cultivated. Highlights include the Dawn Redwoods, thought to have been extinct, and an impressive collection of tercentenary plants. Bathed in light, the iron and glass greenhouses are filled with cacti, Spanish moss that tumbles down like rain and other epiphytes, rare palms, ferns, and exotic fruit trees like mango, banana, and even papaya. It’s a trip around the world without ever leaving the city!

Behind the train station, Switzerland’s oldest Lebanese cedars, which were planted 288 years ago and have a circumference of 6 m (!), create shade in Parc Beaulieu. Some of their seeds took root on the Left Bank, in the Parc La Grange, which can be reached via mouette. As the largest park in Geneva — extending north via the Parc des EauxVives (site of the Geneva Open) — the Parc La Grange

occupies an 18th century domain centred around an elegant villa, which welcomed Biden and Putin in 2021. It’s surrounded by massive lawns dotted with lace-like flowers, remarkable trees, and winding alleys that lead to a pond, an Alpine rock garden, and a rose garden. A free summer music festival, Musiques en été, takes place here on the shady Ella Fitzgerald Stage. And if you’re looking for a bite to eat, La Guinguette du parc — which is housed in the old creamery, under charming arcades — proposes cheese and charcuterie boards, the perfect snack between two games of Bocce Ball, with a glass of wine or an Apérol Spritz. The deckchairs beckon… vacation vibes guaranteed!

A SWEET SUMMER OUTDOORS

Despite its often-staid reputation, Geneva is truly a city of “bonne vivantes.” In the summer months, Operation Lounge Chair takes hold and hundreds of lounge chairs are placed in the city’s parks at no charge to encourage socializing and spending time outdoors. Looking for a place to have a picnic? Here things are taken to the next level: barbeques are installed in the Parc La Grange, the Perle du Lac, and the Parc des Franchises. Other spaces organize their own weekly barbeques open to the public. Even the libraries move things outside by hosting a variety of outdoor lectures and workshops.

Almost everywhere musical stages and pop-up bars flourish: at the Jardin des Nations (with house lemonade), Parc des Chaumettes, Parc des Franchises, Parc Bertrand, or even the Pointe de la Jonction. At the Parc de La Perle du Lac, you better check the schedule: from mid-July to August 20, CinéTransat hosts outdoor movie screenings, complete with an inflatable giant screen and a lush lawn to lie on.

Looking for something more unusual? In July-August, a 7-hole street golf course is setup in the heart of the city. Each afternoon, clubs and foam golf balls are loaned out from the chalet in the Parc des Bastions. The rules? Maximum 7 swings per hole and passer-by’s have the right of way. After your game, take a walk between the old town and the Rives du Lac via the Treille Promenade, the Jardin Anglais, the Brunswick Monument, and back. So many panoramas to see, and that’s not even including a ride on the lakeside Ferris wheel. The city, the bay, the Rhône, and the parks… you’ll want to take every bit of it in!

Freshwater sailors (and proud of it)

Geneva, like a fish to water

Text Claude Hervé-Bazin

Photos Geneva Tourism | La Réserve Genève

No other lake has given our oceans as many skilled sailors as Lake Geneva’s landlocked waters have.

Century-old steamboats, historic water taxis, or Italian-style motoscafi… the lake welcomes them all.

There’s no better way to truly understand Geneva than by setting sail, and one of the easiest ways is to join the local commuters aboard the slender yellow and red mouettes (water taxis). First launched in 1897, they replaced the earlier bateaux-mouches and the slow bateaux à manège, which used a paddle powered by circling horses on the dock (no joke!). Today, these boats link the city’s two riverbanks year-round through four lines running in and out of the bay through Molard, Pâquis, Eaux-Vives, Port-Noir, and Parc de la Perle du Lac. For just 2 Swiss Francs, the 10-12-minute cruise will get you where you need to go. With a Swiss flag flying along the stern, the varnished wood decks, and the long passenger benches with life vests perched overhead, the entire experience is quintessentially Genevan. And in keeping with the times, the mouettes are also solar-powered.

ALL ABOARD

Visitors can also enjoy the water with the CGN (Compagnie Générale de Navigation), celebrating its 150th anniversary, since Geneva is a home port. As warm weather returns, the world’s largest fleet of steamboats reappears, harking back almost a century. Is Hercule Poirot aboard? One would swear it upon seeing the graceful, 78.5-metre-long La Suisse (1910) or Simplon (1920), two of the gems in the city’s fleet of eight vessels. Your eyes are immediately captured by the original engine’s perfectly polished pistons and giant connecting rods — the beating heart of the boat — their tapered bows, Belle Époque dining rooms, and chimneys that shoot white steam into the sky. These are Europe’s most powerful steam-

powered machines, which announce their departure with a single toooot. Enjoy views of the Jardin Anglais, luxurious villas, the south-facing banks of the Petit-Lac, and hundreds of shades of blue and grey in the water. You may even wish to prolong your journey all the way to Lausanne, via the charming medieval French village of Yvoire.

PEARLS OF THE LAKE

There is public and private; the run-of-the-mill and the exclusive; travel by road and travel by boat. For the latter, La Réserve’s chic, all wood motoscafo (speedboat) is available for distinguished guests dining or staying at the 5-star hotel. The boat runs from Quai Fleuri from late March to mid-October (reservation required).

Looking for something more unexpected? How about a solar cruise aboard the Floatinn? This small, sun-powered boat travels slowly and offers expeditions ranging from a few hours to a few days. Up to five people can sleep, cook, and even shower onboard. From November to March, outside of navigation season, the same company opens a B&B aboard their large catamaran Juusan, which is docked in Eaux-Vives and boasts six cabins. You’ll get your sea legs in Geneva in no time!

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Geneva lies between two bodies of water: the usually calm Lake Geneva (or Lac Léman) and the impetuous Rhône River, which absorbs the Arve River as it passes through the city. So it should come as no surprise that water is a way of life for Genevans.

The Cambrian

Watches and Wonders

The year’s essential rendez-vous for watch lovers

Text Yannick Nardin

Valentin Flauraud

Did you know that the rise of watchmaking in Geneva was largely due to the influence of reformer John Calvin? In the 16th century, watches were the only jewellery allowed under the strict religious ordinances. Since then, Geneva and the surrounding areas have never ceased producing timepieces, and now, officially under the auspices of spring, the Watches and Wonders exhibition has solidified Geneva as the heart of the watchmaking world.

For those who may not already know, Watches and Wonders follows in the footsteps of the former Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) — which featured Richemont group brands and leading Baselworld actors like Rolex. The event is an exceptional concentration of trend-setting brands that carry an entire industry in their wake.

The 2023 edition was a huge success, with 48 exhibitors and 43,000 visitors from 125 different countries — nearly double attendance from last year, in part thanks to a weekend that was open to the public. Here, the world’s most famous watch

brands revealed their latest creations in a joyful atmosphere that reflected the favourable state of the market. Stars of the watch world also made appearances — for both business and pleasure — including Roger Federer for Rolex, Julia Roberts for Chopard, David Beckham for Tudor, Edward Chen Hao-sen for Piaget, and Ronaldinho for Rebellion.

To include the larger public in the watchmaking festivities, special events took place throughout Geneva in boutiques along the Rue de Rhône and as part of the “In the City” concept. Other headlining brands, like Bulgari, hosted events at some of Geneva’s most prestigious locations, like the Hotel des Bergues and the Hotel President Wilson. In parallel, the Geneva University of Art and Design hosted the 2nd edition of Time to Watches, which showcased 55 brands for 5,800 visitors. It was the perfect occasion to announce the launch of new prizes for innovation and design. Mark your calendars for spring 2024!

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Each year in early spring, when every second counts, the Watches and Wonders exhibition fans the flames of passion for watch lovers around the world.

Numerous celebrities attended Watches and Wonders, including Rolex Testimonee Roger Federer.

Tudor Black Bay 54

Loved by aficionados, the 1954 Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner has been released in several models. The diameter of the new Black Bay 54, which already went from 41 to 39 mm, is now available in 37 mm with this version that pays loyal tribute to the original with a classic vintage look.

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Brought to life on the racetrack, the legendary Carrera watch is synonymous with elation, speed, and freedom, and is celebrating its 60th anniversary with, notably, this automatic chronograph in steel. Its contrasted “panda look” case is protected by sapphire, making it easy to quickly read short time intervals.

tagheuer.com

The obscure references of this brand, which is loved by collectors, have finally been translated into “modern watch language.” Case in point: the new Aquanaut chronograph self-winding flyback in a rose gold, with a sunburst brown dial that features delicate graduated shading at the rim.

patek.com

With an elegant silhouette in gorgeous Chopard Lucent Steel © , a radiant olive-green coloured dial, facetted Dauphine-style hands, and an in-house movement that must be hand-wound, the highly technical L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph is the very definition of watchmaking elegance and sophistication.

chopard.com

Chopard L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5968R-001

Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph

Lovers of minimalist elegance dreamed of it and Parmigiani Fleurier made their dreams come true. Complimenting the preceding Tonda collection, the new PF is aesthetically pure and features an hours hand and two superimposed minutes hands that can calculate the minutes in five- or one-minute increments on demand.

parmigiani.com

Longines watches have long been used by pioneers in aviation; a rich and infinite history from which the brand often draws inspiration. The new Pilot Majetek provides an updated look and new technology for a 1935 model, including the rarely seen placement of a lumed triangular pip attached to the bezel. longines.com

Reinvented in 1972 by legendary watch creator Gérald Genta, the Ingenieur watch has been unveiled in three steel models that feature a dial in either black, silver, or peacock blue. It features the IWC-manufactured 32111 automatic calibre that, when fully wound, boasts an impressive 120-hour power reserve.

Although Rome wasn’t built in a day, its power has traversed time. The same goes for Bulgari and its Octo Roma Chronograph, which embodies the brand’s timeless creativity in an octagonal steel case that is a nod to the architectural heritage of the Eternal City, and features a blue dial textured with a Clous de Paris pattern.

bulgari.com

Frédérique Constant celebrates its 35th anniversary with a new Worldtimer model featuring 24 timezone options. Coiled in a 41 mm steel case and powered by the brand’s FC-718 calibre movement, this model features a bronze dial that’s complimented by three strap options in steel, nubuck and blue rubber. A look for every occasion!

frederiqueconstant.com

5.

Panerai is taking irresistible vintage appeal to new levels with this latest update, featuring Brunito eSteel for the case and bezel. Innovatively sourced from recycled scrap metal, this new process gives the watch a gorgeous weathered-and-worn appearance. A perfect union of past and future!

panerai.com

iwc.com

7.

Tired of round watches? The H08 by Hermès features a unique cushion shape that’s square with rounded edges. This beauty boasts graphic and sporty lines and is made of high-tech graphene composite and ceramic. Pops of bright colour accent this watch’s otherwise dark and mysterious look.

hermes.com

1. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante

2. Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph

4. Frédérique Constant Highlife Worldtimer Manufacture Steel Brown

Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni – PAM01347

6. IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

Hermès H08

3. Longines Pilot Majetek

Robust and effective, Hamilton’s new Jazzmaster Performer features a sports-inspired design and timeless appeal. The classy 42 mm case is flanked by angled lugs and this model boasts an elegant look with its tachymeter bezel that sits atop the case. The movement, with an engraved H pattern design, offers an extended 60-hour power reserve.

hamiltonwatch.com

The secret is out: Rolex has mastered grade 5 titanium alloy with its in-house RLX. Sporty wrists will breathe a sigh of relief as this material is one third lighter than its steel twin. Very complex to work with, RLX titanium required the introduction of special production processes. Sailing lovers are sure to approve!

rolex.com

This 44.25 mm Speedmaster is the first Omega watch of 2023 to include the brand’s revolutionary Spirate™ System, with certified precision of 0/+2 seconds a day. Paying homage to Omega’s 2013 mastery of magnetic resistance, this new model is eye-catching to say the least, with a honeycomb pattern dial and yellow-filled Super-LumiNova indexes.

omegawatches.com

One year ago, Hublot debuted the Square Bang, its first square-shaped timepiece. It’s back, revised for 2023 in a 42 mm case made of stunning clear sapphire. The transparent material reveals the heart of the watch mechanism, without obscuring easy reading of the hours and minutes, the date at 3 o’clock and the seconds at 9 o’clock.

hublot.com

Made of black ceramic, the structured, angular, and flowing lines of this Defy Skyline have made it ten times more enchanting. This model’s dial features a sunburst pattern that revisits the emblematic Zenith star and boasts the Skyline’s exclusive movement: a hand for indicating 1/10th of a second.

zenith-watches.com

Notably worn by Nirmal Purja, who climbed all 14 eight-thousander mountain peaks in a record six months and six days, this is an Alpinist’s watch that’s made for extreme altitudes. The case is completely devoid of oxygen to eliminate fogging and prevent oxidization due to humidity in the air!

montblanc.com

“The Beast,” the XXL creation by Emmanuel Gueit, is celebrating its 30th anniversary with this Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph that’s 43 mm in diameter, made of black ceramic, and limited to 500 pieces. A few touches of bright yellow are all it takes to light up the famous “Méga Tapisserie” patterned dial.

audemarspiguet.com

6. Zenith Defy Skyline Ceramic

4. Hublot Square Bang Sapphire

1. Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Automatic Chronograph

5. Montblanc

1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen The 8000 Limited Edition

3. Omega Speedmaster Super Racing 2023

2. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42

7. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

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