N° 32 – Autumn 2010

THIRTY DEGREES ISSUE 32 AUTUMN 2010

PORTFOLIO

Red Bull Illume 2010 The best sports image

LIFESTYLE

The YikeBike, the urban two wheeler of the future?

SOCIETY

Solar energy, plugging in to the future SPORT

Hot on the trail of the world’s most extreme races Skiing on Mont Blanc, memorable, yet off the beaten path Anzère - Mountain biking TRAVEL

T H I RT Y D E G R E E S I S S U E 3 2 A U T U M N 2 0 1 0

Switzerland has icebergs too!

Sleepless in Montreal Reunion Island, a paradise that will take your breath away

With its ears attuned to new sounds and its eyes on the lookout for the fascinating and unusual, 30° has been all around the world. Our mission? To uncover, once again, all that may delight and surprise you. It’s a challenge we always rise to with the same enthusiasm. In French, in German, and now in English too. We’re out of stock: the new 30° degrees was a real hit this summer, and we’re grateful to you. A sign perhaps of the typically Anglo-Saxon enthusiasm for the kind of active lifestyle we have made our speciality.

Are you aware, for example, of the YikeBike? An electric bicycle, kind of like a revised and updated Penny Farthing, which can be folded up in a matter of seconds and slipped into a rucksack… Quite amazing. The world is constantly reinventing itself, for fun, flamboyance, and the future too. Solar power is set to be the energy of tomorrow. It’s sure to be a success in Masdar City, and is already monopolising the efforts of our finest scientific minds and our greatest pioneers. Think of Bertrand Piccard and his Solar Impulse plane, the Neuchâtel-based company Nolaris and their incredible floating islands, which produce as much energy as a nuclear power station, or the Swiss Alpine Club’s new Monte Rosa Hut, an architectural gem flying the flag for sustainable development.

Human challenges are covered too. We focus on getting up close and personal with icebergs in Tessin’s high-altitude lakes, sweating it out on the most extreme runs on the planet, crossing the Himalayas on a mountain bike and the vertiginous cirques of Réunion Island on foot, along with ascending Mont Blanc on skis. It doesn’t get much more challenging than that.

,

Christian Bugnon / Publication Director

THIRTY DEGREES | 03

Passion for Sport & Nature - www.peakperformance.com

CONTENTS ISSUE 32 AUTUMN 2010

SPORT

A word from the editor

03

Red Bull Illume Quest 2010 Portfolio Hot on the trail of the world’s most extreme races Verbier Saint-Bernard: a challenge for all Anzère - Mountain biking for all Cycling in Tibet, crossing the Himalayas from East to West on a mountain bike Two new stops in the Freeride World Tour 2011 Skiing on Mont Blanc, memorable, yet off the beaten path The hut which has transformed Alpine architecture

18

LIFESTYLE News

Switzerland has icebergs too!

Woman’s review: The road to perfection Movie feature: Javier Bardem: an Iberian at his peak Contest: Win trips to Thailand!

Cinema: Action, emotion and animation Music: Train back on the right track!

Maryline Bonvin, the wonder child of freeride Travel: Sleepless in Montreal Travel: Reunion Island, a paradise that will take your breath away

SOCIETY

Getting around: The YikeBike, the urban two wheeler of the future?

Solar energy, plugging in to the future History in the making; Swiss solar power Spencer Tunick: an exceptional body of work When technology becomes something you wear Trends 30° degrees address book

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The shot taken by American Chris Burkard is nothing short of beautiful (see portfolio on page 18). It shows the surfer Peter Mendria riding an amazing wave, off the west coast of Chile. With this photo, 24 year old Chris has won the 2010 Red Bull Illume Image Quest Award in Dublin – the biggest contest for action and adventure photography in the world. The jury, made of 53 people with international acclaim, all working in the photography publishing sector, chose this shot out of 22 764 other entries, taken by some 5000 photographers. What an eye!

See the wonderful portfolio on pages 18 to 23! www.redbull.com

Thierry Zufferey

MUSIC – LAUSANNE, JAZZIER THAN EVER JazzOne + Festival, Lausanne, is the jazziest festival in French-speaking Switzerland. For the 23rd edition, from 3-7 November this year at Montbenon Casino, there are top names on the lineup such as piano king McCoy Tyner and his quartet, an unhoped-for encounter between the great masters of free jazz Archie Shepp and Joachim Kühn in quartet, and Christian Scott, climbing to stardom with his trumpet. Alongside the eleven gala concerts on the billboard there are also 10 free concerts featuring young groups with a wide range of styles: afrobeat, hip-hop, R&B, jazz rock and ethno jazz. Enough to get you swinging this autumn! www.jazzonzeplus.ch

06 | THIRTY DEGREES

Christian Bugnon

TECHNOLOGY – INTELLIGENT PLUGS The intelligent plugs from start up company Geroco in Martigny enable you to understand and act on your consumption of energy (electricity and heating). A little box plugged in between the wall socket and the plug of the appliance records information about electricity consumption, which can then be transferred to a computer using a USB flashcard. With a Web platform, all the plugs in your house can be controlled. Geroco states that savings of up to 15% can be made. www.geroco.ch

RR

PHOTOGRAPHY – THE 2010 RED BULL ILLUME IMAGE QUEST AWARD

TRAVEL – A NIGHT IN NEW YORK COSTS THE EARTH Ever had vertigo? You will in New York. With the city’s sky-scrapers of course, but also due to the cost of a hotel room. New York’s hotels are the most expensive in the world. This July, the average price was € 194.50 (with a 14.9% increase compared to 2009). According to Hotel.info, the Big Apple is the most expensive place to stay, taking the lead over London (€ 146.60), Stockholm (€ 145.30) and Zurich. In terms of price rises, Rio (5th place, +44.60%) and Shanghai (16th place, +30%) are the cities that saw the biggest increases over the last year. Not something to have sweet dreams about!

ART – MONET : AN EXHIBITION ARE RARE AS HIS WORKS OF ART Light shines out from everywhere, softening shapes and embellishing colours while dampening the structure of borders.

In this poetic environment where the focus is on a global vision rather than the precision of the lines themselves, the Grand Palais in Paris is staging the biggest exhibition for nearly thirty years dedicated to the impressionist artist Claude Monet. You have until 24 January 2011 to admire 200 works of art gathered from all around the world, representing approximately 10% of the artist’s works. www.monet2010.com

ECOLOGY – BAGS YOU CAN COMPOST FROM SWITCHER Be them half empty or packed to burst, the plastic bags we use for shopping have a heavy impact on the environment. To improve this situation, the brand Switcher has created a partnership with Glandbased (VD) BioApply in order to invite customers to use bags that will biodegrade in the compost heap. They are now being sold in the ‘yellow whale’ stores at cost price – between 15 and 60 cents depending on their size. www.switcher.ch RR

Erwin Polanc

SPORT – PAYING HOMAGE TO CHLOÉ GRAFTIAUX She was only 23 and had her whole life in front of her, with hundreds of cliffs left to climb. The Belgian Chloé Graftiaux, 3rd place in the 2010 World Cup Bouldering Event, had a tragic accident on 21 August when climbing down from the black needle of the Peuterey, on the Italian face of Mont Blanc. A rock broke off the cliff, tearing her into a frightful 600m fall. All our hearts are with this exceptional sportswoman. www.chloegraftiaux.com

SPORT – THE 2010 COLUMBIA FREEZER TOUR The coldest place in Switzerland is mobile, and can be found between 29 September and 3 October in various Swiss towns during the Columbia Freezer Tour. Apart from witnessing a sort of gigantic fridge which will plunge you into a wintry atmosphere, Columbia is proposing a wide panel of attractive contests to mark the spirits with their revolutionary Omni-Heat thermal technology.

Why not pay them a visit? Dates and venues on www.30degres.ch or www.columbia.com

HEALTH – A GOOD SENSE OF HUMOUR MAKES YOU LIVE LONGER! Do you have a good sense of humour?

Well, you’re lucky if you do and you want to live a long life. A Norwegian study based on 53 000 people over a 7-year period has just revealed the proof that this aptitude can help extend your lifetime by 20%. The fact of having a ‘friendly’ sense of humour (not conflicting or insulting) was studied. “A distinction should be made between having a good sense of humour and laughing.” Says Sven Svebak who carried out the research. “It’s not necessary to show outward signs. A sparkle in the eye will do the trick.” So, working on your sense of humour seems nothing else than… common sense!

ART – OUR WASTE IS BECOMING… WILD The Neuchâtel Natural History Museum invites you to discover some creatures that are a little out of the ordinary, with an exhibition called Espèces en voie d’apparition (Upcoming Species). François Riou has created his own animal kingdom, something that came straight out of his mind and… rubbish bins! The artist has used household waste and discarded packaging to bring to life a surprising and colourful biodiversity. The exhibition runs until 9 January 2011. www.museum-neuchatel.ch

INTERNET – TAKING TIME TO DAWDLE CAN BE FUN Do the instant messages from Twitter drive you crazy? Then you might just like the idea of Her Majesty’s subject Russell Davies, creator of the site Dawdlr. He’s decided to go against the grain and invites you to surf against the waves! The principle couldn’t be simpler: write a short note about what you are doing at the present moment in time, but contrarily to Twitter, put it on a postcard and send it by snail mail. Once received they will be scanned and put on line… every six months. A nice slap in the face for the ever increasing speed of new technologies. http://dawdlr.tumblr.com/

MAMMUT AND GORE-TEX PRESENT THE BIGGEST FILM EVENT OF THE EUROPEAN OUTDOOR COMMUNITY : The 10th European Outdoor Film Tour. The programme lasts for two hours and is a guaranteed rush of adrenalin. You can see several films featuring outdoor sports such as the Free Solo ascension of the Big Wall, a sub-marine basejump and even the Mammut Pro Team in the Peak District. The variety of films will be sure to delight mountain climbers, those of you who love canoeing and downhill freaks.

The tour kicks off at Füssen (D) on 10 October and will make a stop off in 6 Swiss towns at the beginning of December. See www.mammut.ch/eoft for dates.

THIRTY DEGREES | 07

RR

The shot taken by American Chris Burkard is nothing short of beautiful (see portfolio on page 18). It shows the surfer Peter Mendria riding an amazing wave, off the west coast of Chile. With this photo, 24 year old Chris has won the 2010 Red Bull Illume Image Quest Award in Dublin – the biggest contest for action and adventure photography in the world. The jury, made of 53 people with international acclaim, all working in the photography publishing sector, chose this shot out of 22 764 other entries, taken by some 5000 photographers. What an eye!

See the wonderful portfolio on pages 18 to 23! www.redbull.com

Thierry Zufferey

MUSIC – LAUSANNE, JAZZIER THAN EVER JazzOne + Festival, Lausanne, is the jazziest festival in French-speaking Switzerland. For the 23rd edition, from 3-7 November this year at Montbenon Casino, there are top names on the lineup such as piano king McCoy Tyner and his quartet, an unhoped-for encounter between the great masters of free jazz Archie Shepp and Joachim Kühn in quartet, and Christian Scott, climbing to stardom with his trumpet. Alongside the eleven gala concerts on the billboard there are also 10 free concerts featuring young groups with a wide range of styles: afrobeat, hip-hop, R&B, jazz rock and ethno jazz. Enough to get you swinging this autumn! www.jazzonzeplus.ch

06 | THIRTY DEGREES

Christian Bugnon

TECHNOLOGY – INTELLIGENT PLUGS The intelligent plugs from start up company Geroco in Martigny enable you to understand and act on your consumption of energy (electricity and heating). A little box plugged in between the wall socket and the plug of the appliance records information about electricity consumption, which can then be transferred to a computer using a USB flashcard. With a Web platform, all the plugs in your house can be controlled. Geroco states that savings of up to 15% can be made. www.geroco.ch

RR

PHOTOGRAPHY – THE 2010 RED BULL ILLUME IMAGE QUEST AWARD

TRAVEL – A NIGHT IN NEW YORK COSTS THE EARTH Ever had vertigo? You will in New York. With the city’s sky-scrapers of course, but also due to the cost of a hotel room. New York’s hotels are the most expensive in the world. This July, the average price was € 194.50 (with a 14.9% increase compared to 2009). According to Hotel.info, the Big Apple is the most expensive place to stay, taking the lead over London (€ 146.60), Stockholm (€ 145.30) and Zurich. In terms of price rises, Rio (5th place, +44.60%) and Shanghai (16th place, +30%) are the cities that saw the biggest increases over the last year. Not something to have sweet dreams about!

ART – MONET : AN EXHIBITION ARE RARE AS HIS WORKS OF ART Light shines out from everywhere, softening shapes and embellishing colours while dampening the structure of borders.

In this poetic environment where the focus is on a global vision rather than the precision of the lines themselves, the Grand Palais in Paris is staging the biggest exhibition for nearly thirty years dedicated to the impressionist artist Claude Monet. You have until 24 January 2011 to admire 200 works of art gathered from all around the world, representing approximately 10% of the artist’s works. www.monet2010.com

ECOLOGY – BAGS YOU CAN COMPOST FROM SWITCHER Be them half empty or packed to burst, the plastic bags we use for shopping have a heavy impact on the environment. To improve this situation, the brand Switcher has created a partnership with Glandbased (VD) BioApply in order to invite customers to use bags that will biodegrade in the compost heap. They are now being sold in the ‘yellow whale’ stores at cost price – between 15 and 60 cents depending on their size. www.switcher.ch RR

Erwin Polanc

SPORT – PAYING HOMAGE TO CHLOÉ GRAFTIAUX She was only 23 and had her whole life in front of her, with hundreds of cliffs left to climb. The Belgian Chloé Graftiaux, 3rd place in the 2010 World Cup Bouldering Event, had a tragic accident on 21 August when climbing down from the black needle of the Peuterey, on the Italian face of Mont Blanc. A rock broke off the cliff, tearing her into a frightful 600m fall. All our hearts are with this exceptional sportswoman. www.chloegraftiaux.com

SPORT – THE 2010 COLUMBIA FREEZER TOUR The coldest place in Switzerland is mobile, and can be found between 29 September and 3 October in various Swiss towns during the Columbia Freezer Tour. Apart from witnessing a sort of gigantic fridge which will plunge you into a wintry atmosphere, Columbia is proposing a wide panel of attractive contests to mark the spirits with their revolutionary Omni-Heat thermal technology.

Why not pay them a visit? Dates and venues on www.30degres.ch or www.columbia.com

HEALTH – A GOOD SENSE OF HUMOUR MAKES YOU LIVE LONGER! Do you have a good sense of humour?

Well, you’re lucky if you do and you want to live a long life. A Norwegian study based on 53 000 people over a 7-year period has just revealed the proof that this aptitude can help extend your lifetime by 20%. The fact of having a ‘friendly’ sense of humour (not conflicting or insulting) was studied. “A distinction should be made between having a good sense of humour and laughing.” Says Sven Svebak who carried out the research. “It’s not necessary to show outward signs. A sparkle in the eye will do the trick.” So, working on your sense of humour seems nothing else than… common sense!

ART – OUR WASTE IS BECOMING… WILD The Neuchâtel Natural History Museum invites you to discover some creatures that are a little out of the ordinary, with an exhibition called Espèces en voie d’apparition (Upcoming Species). François Riou has created his own animal kingdom, something that came straight out of his mind and… rubbish bins! The artist has used household waste and discarded packaging to bring to life a surprising and colourful biodiversity. The exhibition runs until 9 January 2011. www.museum-neuchatel.ch

INTERNET – TAKING TIME TO DAWDLE CAN BE FUN Do the instant messages from Twitter drive you crazy? Then you might just like the idea of Her Majesty’s subject Russell Davies, creator of the site Dawdlr. He’s decided to go against the grain and invites you to surf against the waves! The principle couldn’t be simpler: write a short note about what you are doing at the present moment in time, but contrarily to Twitter, put it on a postcard and send it by snail mail. Once received they will be scanned and put on line… every six months. A nice slap in the face for the ever increasing speed of new technologies. http://dawdlr.tumblr.com/

MAMMUT AND GORE-TEX PRESENT THE BIGGEST FILM EVENT OF THE EUROPEAN OUTDOOR COMMUNITY : The 10th European Outdoor Film Tour. The programme lasts for two hours and is a guaranteed rush of adrenalin. You can see several films featuring outdoor sports such as the Free Solo ascension of the Big Wall, a sub-marine basejump and even the Mammut Pro Team in the Peak District. The variety of films will be sure to delight mountain climbers, those of you who love canoeing and downhill freaks.

The tour kicks off at Füssen (D) on 10 October and will make a stop off in 6 Swiss towns at the beginning of December. See www.mammut.ch/eoft for dates.

THIRTY DEGREES | 07

RR

RIPCURL PRO 2010 - PENICHE (PORTUGAL) 7-18 OCTOBER 2010 Following the success of Ripcurl Pro Search in 2009, Ripcurl returns to Peniche (Portugal) in 2010, for the 8th step of the global circuit. 7-18 October. The legendary Portuguese Supertubos prides extremely hollow waves from 4-5 metres high, and sports the nickname ‘European Pipeline’.

A great show on the horizon… www.ripcurl.com

CLIMATOLOGY – AN EXCEPTIONALLY WARM FIRST HALF OF THE YEAR AIn July it was hot, really hot. In comparison with statistics for the same month recorded between years 1951-1980, the average increase is 0.55°C. According to a study published by the James Hansen team, from the NASA, the month of July will even place the first seven months of 2010 top on the list of the hottest years for the last 130 years. And who s speaking about global warming?

SPORT – A NEW CONCEPT TO SKI-MOUNTAINEERING, IN LES DIABLERETS Three disciplines, three challenges, three days of competition.

The Diablerets 3D is the new challenge that this Vaudoise resort has placed on the 2011 Swiss and international ski-mountaineering agenda. The competition offers participants all the specialities of the sport: vertical race, long distance race, and relays between teams with 2 skiers. From 4 to 6 February 2011, the organisers of this event which covers a total of 4000 meters uphill over three days, will give us three reasons why the new concept has been missing up to now… www.diablerets3d.ch

RR

TECHNOLOGY – DINING OUT WITH THE IPHONE Instead of carrying the traditional notebook, your waiter comes to take your order with an iPhone. With a WiFi connection, starving guests see their orders directly sent to the kitchen. This surprising application from Apple is slowly becoming standard fare in Swiss restaurants. So when will we see the menu on an iPad? Without doubt in a not-too-distant future, because several parts of the world (Sri Lanka, Australia, France…) have already started scrapping their paper versions.

08 | THIRTY DEGREES

© Damiano Levati

THE NORTH FACE® ULTRA TRAIL DU MONT BLANC THE HARDEST MOUNTAIN RACE IN EUROPE The 8th edition of the famous The North Face® Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc® took place at the end of August. With its 166 km and nearly 10 000 metres ascent, it is considered as the harshest mountain race in Europe. Extremely bad weather conditions led the organisers to stop the race to avoid putting the participants at risk. When the weather conditions improved, a new depart was fixed for a shorter race between Courmayeur and Chamonix, via Grand Col Ferret and Vallorcine in Switzerland. The winners of this UTMB® shorter edition were the British Lizzy Hawker and Jez Bragg, members of The North Face® team. www.northface.com

RR

DESIGN – REALLY SWISS BINS Switzerland is a clean country! Orderly too. Now our red and white colours are appearing on containers and bins in some of the tourist hot-spots of our country, such as Säntis, Engelberg and HauteNendaz. And it’s spelled out in writing: “Clean country!” This slogan, translated into four languages and displayed on city furniture, lies alongside the Swiss Cross or a picture of farmers moving animals to summer pastures. To make sure that the Geneva-based company Grellor isn’t wasting their time, think before chucking your waste on the ground and put it scrupulously into one of the bins. It will also help to make sure that Switzerland stays the clean country it’s proud to be!

ICEBERGS SWITZERLAND HAS TOO

During the winter the Alpine lakes, situated at an altitude of more than 2000 metres, are covered in a thick layer of ice. This small and uneven ice field produces fantastic formations on the surface and, even more so, beneath the water. We visited Tessin to immerse ourselves in this surreal, ever-changing world.

Text°°° SABRINA BELLONI Photos°°° FRANCO BANFI Iceberg.The word conjures up outlandish visions of the North and South Pole, of legendary expeditions, and of… global warming. We think of icebergs as being far off, unreachable. But they can also be found much closer to home, in the very heart of the Swiss Alps, in hidden corners where no one ever ventures. Visiting them is no mean feat, what with all the equipment to be carried to the isolated location. But the reward is well worth all the effort: a glimpse of the world which lies beneath the lake’s frozen crust.

During the long winters, the surface of the Alpine lakes, located at an altitude of over 2000 m, freezes over to form a thick layer of ice, reinforced by snowfall. Further unstable banks of snow build up, then tumble down the slopes around the lakes. The snow amasses on the white expanse, compacting, then breaks under its own weight. In late spring and early summer, when the thaw begins, severe conditions whip across the lake and leave an effect like beaten egg whites. The ice shatters, accumulates once again, and forms large blocks, which are pushed by the wind towards the embankments. There they pile up and pack together in the lower night-time temperatures, creating an irregular, haphazard ice field. Both on and below the surface the resulting formations are fantastic, although unpredictable and dangerous.

,

From time to time, the small lakes in the Naret region (Tessin) provide an extremely rare experience under this latitude: swimming surrounded by natural icebergs. Huge floating blocks of ice, just like the most famous icebergs in the Arctic seas, with the mountain prairies all around still covered by the winter snow.

THIRTY DEGREES | 013

ICEBERGS SWITZERLAND HAS TOO

During the winter the Alpine lakes, situated at an altitude of more than 2000 metres, are covered in a thick layer of ice. This small and uneven ice field produces fantastic formations on the surface and, even more so, beneath the water. We visited Tessin to immerse ourselves in this surreal, ever-changing world.

Text°°° SABRINA BELLONI Photos°°° FRANCO BANFI Iceberg.The word conjures up outlandish visions of the North and South Pole, of legendary expeditions, and of… global warming. We think of icebergs as being far off, unreachable. But they can also be found much closer to home, in the very heart of the Swiss Alps, in hidden corners where no one ever ventures. Visiting them is no mean feat, what with all the equipment to be carried to the isolated location. But the reward is well worth all the effort: a glimpse of the world which lies beneath the lake’s frozen crust.

During the long winters, the surface of the Alpine lakes, located at an altitude of over 2000 m, freezes over to form a thick layer of ice, reinforced by snowfall. Further unstable banks of snow build up, then tumble down the slopes around the lakes. The snow amasses on the white expanse, compacting, then breaks under its own weight. In late spring and early summer, when the thaw begins, severe conditions whip across the lake and leave an effect like beaten egg whites. The ice shatters, accumulates once again, and forms large blocks, which are pushed by the wind towards the embankments. There they pile up and pack together in the lower night-time temperatures, creating an irregular, haphazard ice field. Both on and below the surface the resulting formations are fantastic, although unpredictable and dangerous.

,

From time to time, the small lakes in the Naret region (Tessin) provide an extremely rare experience under this latitude: swimming surrounded by natural icebergs. Huge floating blocks of ice, just like the most famous icebergs in the Arctic seas, with the mountain prairies all around still covered by the winter snow.

THIRTY DEGREES | 013

With the return of the good weather, as temperatures climb back up, the ice slowly thins. The way is finally clear. But timing is vital, as everything can change very quickly. And we have to hope that a sudden blast of wind will not block access to the dive site.

KILOS OF EQUIPMENT The road to Tessin snakes up the mountainside in a succession of hairpin bends. We abandon the 4 wheel drive in a field. It is impossible to go any further without a trial bike, the path being strewn with rocks and trees which have fallen during the frost. The logistics are daunting. We have to transfer kilos of equipment to the banks of the lake, through the forest, across stony mountain terrain still dotted with snow drifts. The wind and rain turn nasty, piercing our thick layers of clothing and leaving us numb.

Our dive computers adapt to the atmospheric pressure and are already indicating 20 hours of desaturation time before we even arrive... The south side of the lake is ice-free, the northern half covered with a thick layer of ice, its crevasses and fissures changing shape before our eyes. In the centre float magnificent icebergs. The challenge is now more mental than physical.

The icebergs dance like corks on the water, knocking against each other and scraping along the lake bed as they are pushed towards the bank. With every gust of wind they seem ready to

A diver is getting ready for the plunge. The modern equipment is designed for the harshest of environments. We couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t imagine how hard it would be to carry the gear to the lake.

Look at the scale of this gigantic block of ice compared with the diver next to it. Pushed by the wind to shallow water, the iceberg is stranded between the surface and the rocky bed of the lake.

014 | THIRTY DEGREES

L I V E W E L L , F LY

FLY TO BIARRITZ BORDEAUX VALENCE ATHENS BOOK NOW ON GENEVA’S OWN AIRLINE

F LY B A B O O.C O M

BABOO, FLYING BLUE PARTNER

The hidden part of the iceberg is much bigger than the part that is visible above the surface. The icebergs shrink quickly. With erosion caused by the wind, ice melting due to high temperatures, chunks breaking off during the violent summer storms and collisions, the icebergs always end up disappearing completely into the lake. capsize, then rise up again and collapse, striking the bottom, releasing new pieces of ice with each impact. Their erratic behaviour is certainly not conducive to a particularly safe diving environmentâ&#x20AC;Ś We have to carefully choose which of them is most stable. Exploring this icy domain demands not just good physical fitness, but plenty of determination too.

INCREDIBLE VISIBILITY With our long preparations completed, we are finally ready to dive into the great silence of the still-sleeping Alps. Seated on a rock, staring at the black mirror of the lake, apparently so impenetrable, we are filled with a feeling of peace, of respect for this environment. Conscious of our limits, we pull on our equipment, check everything is working, make our way over the slippery rocks, then swim out towards the centre. Then, at last, we are under the surface. The visibility is incredible, revealing the huge underside of an iceberg. As if suspended in space, free of gravity, we watch the dance of the ice blocks, both large and small, as they climb in unison to the surface and plummet back down into the depths.

Exploration of the underwater caves and tunnels at the northern end of the lake will have to wait: it requires special expertise beyond our capabilities. An environment like this will punish the slightest error.

016 | THIRTY DEGREES

In the heart of the 4 Vallées…

Mont-Fort 3300m

Special offer : 1 week from CHF 495.– per pers.

The offer includes : 7 nights in an apartment + 6-day skipass «4 Vallées » + access to sport centre Available from the 8th of January to 5th of February and from 12th March to 30th of April.

Subject to availability. nendaz.ch - 027 289 55 89

The globe’s biggest sports and adventure photography contest, with 22 764 entries made by some 5000 photographers. www.redbullillume.com

ii Rami Hanafi (FIN) Truckee, CA, USA i Nathan Smith (AUS) Wamberal, New South Wales, Australia p Chris Burkard (USA), winner of the 2010 Red Bull Illume Image Quest Award.

The winning photo taken by the 24 year old professional photographer shows Peter Mendria surfing the waves off the west coast of Chile.

PORTFOLIO RED BULL ILLUME IMAGE QUEST 2010 iconography°°° CHRISTIAN BUGNON

The globe’s biggest sports and adventure photography contest, with 22 764 entries made by some 5000 photographers. www.redbullillume.com

ii Rami Hanafi (FIN) Truckee, CA, USA i Nathan Smith (AUS) Wamberal, New South Wales, Australia p Chris Burkard (USA), winner of the 2010 Red Bull Illume Image Quest Award.

The winning photo taken by the 24 year old professional photographer shows Peter Mendria surfing the waves off the west coast of Chile.

PORTFOLIO RED BULL ILLUME IMAGE QUEST 2010 iconography°°° CHRISTIAN BUGNON

i Sterling Lorence (CAN) Kamloops, BC, Canada g Christoph Schoech (AUT) Hintertux, Austria f Mike Killion (USA) Hammond, IN, USA

i Sterling Lorence (CAN) Kamloops, BC, Canada g Christoph Schoech (AUT) Hintertux, Austria f Mike Killion (USA) Hammond, IN, USA

g Agustin Munoz (ARG) Negril, Jamaica f Derek Frankowski (CAN) Big Water, UT, USA ii Eric Boomer (USA) Palouse Falls State Park, WA, USA i Brian Bielmann (USA) Teahupoo, French Polynesia p Oskar Enander (SUE) Engelberg, Switzerland

g Agustin Munoz (ARG) Negril, Jamaica f Derek Frankowski (CAN) Big Water, UT, USA ii Eric Boomer (USA) Palouse Falls State Park, WA, USA i Brian Bielmann (USA) Teahupoo, French Polynesia p Oskar Enander (SUE) Engelberg, Switzerland

THE YIKEBIKE THE URBAN TWO WHEELER OF THE FUTURE?

This 10kg fold-up electric bicycle from New Zealand has just entered the production phase but you can already place an order.

So, saddle up for a trial gallop on this ecochic machine that Time magazine considers one of the best inventions of 2009.

Text°°° FRÉDÉRIC REIN

MOBILITY

The history of the bicycle began with the Penny Farthing and the YikeBike could well become a new chapter in the story. There are almost 150 years between the two, yet they share the same style, with an over-sized front wheel compared to a smaller one at the back. Even though you don’t need to pedal on a YikeBike, Grant Ryan, the New Zealander who invented this electric bicycle does not shun the comparison in style. But the similarity ends there! “We changed the chain, the wheels, the pedals and the brake pads”, says Grant Ryan, who began producing his invention in September this year. “Switzerland is currently one of the top countries for requests proportionally to the number of inhabitants”, he confides, keeping the actual figures under wraps.

The YikeBike combines sophisticated electronic technology, with high-tech steering and wheel design. Its birth in 2009 announced the beginning of a whole new...cycle in the world of two wheelers! It brings new freedom to city life, and can cover a distance of up to 10 km, at a maximum speed of 25km/h (purposely limited by the manufacturer) before needing to be recharged in a standard household electric socket.

Jet Photography

Jet Photography

,

A TECHNOLOGICAL MASTERPIECE The bike is a sheer masterpiece of technology, as indicated by its clean lines and futuristic design. It’s light, very light, with a carbon fibre frame giving the bike a total weight of just over 10kg. The lightest electric bike in the world can be folded up in less than 15 seconds and stored in a bag just 15cm wide, 60cm long and 60cm high for a volume of just 40 litres! No need to chain it to a lamppost so it won’t get stolen. Just take it with you!

These unique advantages earned it 15th place in Time magazine’s 2009 list of best inventions. “This gives us real credibility”, said a thrilled Grant Ryan. Even the BBC spoke highly

THIRTY DEGREES | 025

THE YIKEBIKE THE URBAN TWO WHEELER OF THE FUTURE?

This 10kg fold-up electric bicycle from New Zealand has just entered the production phase but you can already place an order.

So, saddle up for a trial gallop on this ecochic machine that Time magazine considers one of the best inventions of 2009.

Text°°° FRÉDÉRIC REIN

MOBILITY

The history of the bicycle began with the Penny Farthing and the YikeBike could well become a new chapter in the story. There are almost 150 years between the two, yet they share the same style, with an over-sized front wheel compared to a smaller one at the back. Even though you don’t need to pedal on a YikeBike, Grant Ryan, the New Zealander who invented this electric bicycle does not shun the comparison in style. But the similarity ends there! “We changed the chain, the wheels, the pedals and the brake pads”, says Grant Ryan, who began producing his invention in September this year. “Switzerland is currently one of the top countries for requests proportionally to the number of inhabitants”, he confides, keeping the actual figures under wraps.

The YikeBike combines sophisticated electronic technology, with high-tech steering and wheel design. Its birth in 2009 announced the beginning of a whole new...cycle in the world of two wheelers! It brings new freedom to city life, and can cover a distance of up to 10 km, at a maximum speed of 25km/h (purposely limited by the manufacturer) before needing to be recharged in a standard household electric socket.

Jet Photography

Jet Photography

,

A TECHNOLOGICAL MASTERPIECE The bike is a sheer masterpiece of technology, as indicated by its clean lines and futuristic design. It’s light, very light, with a carbon fibre frame giving the bike a total weight of just over 10kg. The lightest electric bike in the world can be folded up in less than 15 seconds and stored in a bag just 15cm wide, 60cm long and 60cm high for a volume of just 40 litres! No need to chain it to a lamppost so it won’t get stolen. Just take it with you!

These unique advantages earned it 15th place in Time magazine’s 2009 list of best inventions. “This gives us real credibility”, said a thrilled Grant Ryan. Even the BBC spoke highly

THIRTY DEGREES | 025

RR

Orders are via internet only, at www.yikebike.com. “Considering the size and weight of the YikeBike, it is sent by post.

Delivery will be made between three and four months after the order”, says Grant Ryan, the inventor. Once you receive your YikeBike, the Office fédéral des routes (OFROU) stipulates that you should request authorisation from the highway authorities of your canton to be able to use it on the road as the manufacturer has not, as yet, applied for the necessary national authorisations. You will need to have a driving licence for light motorcycles (with a power output of up to 4kW and a maximum speed of up to 45kph). Any takers?

THE LOW DOWN AT A GLANCE Total weight: Approximately 10kg.

Electric motor power: 1.2 kW. Maximum speed: 25 km/h.

Range: 10 km.

Recharge time: 40 minutes to full charge, 20 minutes to recharge to 80%.

Battery life: 1000 recharges.

Price: Around €3500, including taxes and shipping charges.

The YikeBike has brake lights, indicators and LED headlamps.

of it: “Easy to ride...surprisingly stable”. Surprising indeed.

First impressions can be deceptive... The handlebars look like they’ve been put on backwards. They’re just underneath the saddle and go behind your back and then stick out on each side just at hand height and house the controls for the brake lights, indicators, LED headlamps and the brakes themselves. According to the people who have tested the bike, the 30cm wide front wheel provides sufficient stability. As for the unconventional upright position used on the YikeBike, you apparently get used to it after a few tries. Much attention has been paid to safety and the anti-skid electronic braking system means the braking distance is shorter than on a traditional bicycle.

WATCH OUT FOR MANHOLES! Compared to a traditional bicycle, the 1.2kw motor with the latest Lithium/Phosphate battery means pedalling is not necessary, so there’s just a footrest. Gone are the days when you arrived at work all sweaty. And you’ll no longer get grease stains on your trousers.

Watch out for manhole covers though, as the back wheel can get stuck in them. The other sticking point is the size of the rider. The bike can take a weight of up to 100kg, and riders should be between 163cm and 193cm tall. What’s more, you’ll need a well-endowed wallet, as this little gem costs €2635 plus shipping and customs charges which will be around €865!

Nearly €3500 to be one of the privileged few lucky enough to be able to ride astride this eco-chic machine. “In the future, we hope to be able to offer a cheaper model although it will be slightly heavier”, says the New Zealand-based company.

In a while though, the wheel will certainly turn, the price will decrease and the image will go from exclusive chic to run of the mill.

RR

Taking less than 15 seconds to fold up, the YikeBike fits into a bag just 15cm wide, 60cm long and 60cm high.

026 | THIRTY DEGREES

RR

HOW TO GET A YIKEBIKE?

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f Masdar City, in the United Arab Emirates, should see the light by 2015 and become the international capital of sustainable development. p Nearly 50 000 people will live in this ultramodern city located around 120 km south-west of Abu Dhabi.

The city will run exclusively on renewable sources of energy, mainly solar power.

Projects designed to produce solar power are flourishing throughout the world. This is a fast-growing sector, with estimations that 25% of the world’s electricity will come from solar energy by the year 2040. Switzerland has not been left out of the race. The early beginnings of a bright future for energies…

SOLAR

ENERGY PLUGGING IN TO THE FUTURE 028 | THIRTY DEGREES

Text°°° FRÉDÉRIC REIN The project is highly ambitious and would certainly have delighted Ra, the ancient Egyptian sun god. However, it’s not in Egypt, but in the United Arab Emirates, that the world’s biggest solar concentrator power station is being built (2.5 km2). By the end of 2012, 768 parabolic mirrors will be turning to the sun in Madinat Zayed, around 120 km south-west of Abu Dhabi. These mirrors are designed to concentrate the solar energy in order to generate steam, which will be used to power electric turbines. With a 100 Megawatt capacity, the system will replace an equivalent of 175 000 tonnes of CO2, which is about the same as removing 15 000 cars from the streets.

The power station will be ready three years before the place it is going to serve: Masdar-City. Nearly 50 000 people will live in this international capital of sustainable development, which will run exclusively on renewable sources of energy (mainly solar), and create no carbon dioxide emissions.

At the start of this 21st Century, the sun is shining brightly on the worldwide energy sectors, from power stations, which use !"#$%&'&()*!&*#&%#"%!+,!"*'-($!*!$+&.($*/-++&+0*!&*$",!*1.-203* to photovoltaic solar panels, with cells that produce electricity directly from the sun’s rays. These two techniques for producing solar power will enable us to consume less fossil fuels, which are becoming rarer and rarer every day.

,

MATCHING THE PRICE OF COAL WITHIN 20 YEARS The whole world is going yellow! The sun rises every day, as does estimated future use of solar power. The International Energy Agency (IEA) predicts that 25% of the world’s energy will come 4+&/*0&',+*5&6"+*6-!$-%*!$"*%"7!*89*)",+0:*;$"*#.++"%!*<(.+"*-0* 0.1%! The same agency forecasts that the cost of solar power should be equivalent to coal within 20 years time. Even if Germany, Spain, the USA and Japan currently eclipse other nations in !$-0*<"'23*=$-%,*,%2*>%2-,*6-''*#"+!,-%')*0""*!$"*05&!'-($!*4&#.00"2* &%*!$"/*-%*!$"*%",+*4.!.+":*?%*?/"+-#,%*<+/3*@.%*A&6"+3*$,0* just marketed new technology for photovoltaic solar panels, 6-!$*,%*"4<#-"%#)*&4*B8:BC*6$-#$*D",!0*,''*+"#&+20*!&*2,!":*E$&* knows, future technology might be brought to light by emerging economies…

ISLANDS FLOATING OVER SWISS ROOFTOPS Global projects on solar power are blooming. For example, Desertec aims to create solar power stations in North Africa that will eventually cover 15% of European energy needs. Works should start within the next decade.

What about Switzerland? What role does it have to play in this intense environment? There are many international challenges %"6*!&*!$"*6&+'2*0!,("*F":(:*@&',+*>/5.'0"*&+*A',%"!@&',+3*0""* page 32). There are also other notable Swiss works taking place in

THIRTY DEGREES | 029

f Masdar City, in the United Arab Emirates, should see the light by 2015 and become the international capital of sustainable development. p Nearly 50 000 people will live in this ultramodern city located around 120 km south-west of Abu Dhabi.

The city will run exclusively on renewable sources of energy, mainly solar power.

Projects designed to produce solar power are flourishing throughout the world. This is a fast-growing sector, with estimations that 25% of the world’s electricity will come from solar energy by the year 2040. Switzerland has not been left out of the race. The early beginnings of a bright future for energies…

SOLAR

ENERGY PLUGGING IN TO THE FUTURE 028 | THIRTY DEGREES

Text°°° FRÉDÉRIC REIN The project is highly ambitious and would certainly have delighted Ra, the ancient Egyptian sun god. However, it’s not in Egypt, but in the United Arab Emirates, that the world’s biggest solar concentrator power station is being built (2.5 km2). By the end of 2012, 768 parabolic mirrors will be turning to the sun in Madinat Zayed, around 120 km south-west of Abu Dhabi. These mirrors are designed to concentrate the solar energy in order to generate steam, which will be used to power electric turbines. With a 100 Megawatt capacity, the system will replace an equivalent of 175 000 tonnes of CO2, which is about the same as removing 15 000 cars from the streets.

The power station will be ready three years before the place it is going to serve: Masdar-City. Nearly 50 000 people will live in this international capital of sustainable development, which will run exclusively on renewable sources of energy (mainly solar), and create no carbon dioxide emissions.

At the start of this 21st Century, the sun is shining brightly on the worldwide energy sectors, from power stations, which use !"#$%&'&()*!&*#&%#"%!+,!"*'-($!*!$+&.($*/-++&+0*!&*$",!*1.-203* to photovoltaic solar panels, with cells that produce electricity directly from the sun’s rays. These two techniques for producing solar power will enable us to consume less fossil fuels, which are becoming rarer and rarer every day.

,

MATCHING THE PRICE OF COAL WITHIN 20 YEARS The whole world is going yellow! The sun rises every day, as does estimated future use of solar power. The International Energy Agency (IEA) predicts that 25% of the world’s energy will come 4+&/*0&',+*5&6"+*6-!$-%*!$"*%"7!*89*)",+0:*;$"*#.++"%!*<(.+"*-0* 0.1%! The same agency forecasts that the cost of solar power should be equivalent to coal within 20 years time. Even if Germany, Spain, the USA and Japan currently eclipse other nations in !$-0*<"'23*=$-%,*,%2*>%2-,*6-''*#"+!,-%')*0""*!$"*05&!'-($!*4&#.00"2* &%*!$"/*-%*!$"*%",+*4.!.+":*?%*?/"+-#,%*<+/3*@.%*A&6"+3*$,0* just marketed new technology for photovoltaic solar panels, 6-!$*,%*"4<#-"%#)*&4*B8:BC*6$-#$*D",!0*,''*+"#&+20*!&*2,!":*E$&* knows, future technology might be brought to light by emerging economies…

ISLANDS FLOATING OVER SWISS ROOFTOPS Global projects on solar power are blooming. For example, Desertec aims to create solar power stations in North Africa that will eventually cover 15% of European energy needs. Works should start within the next decade.

What about Switzerland? What role does it have to play in this intense environment? There are many international challenges %"6*!&*!$"*6&+'2*0!,("*F":(:*@&',+*>/5.'0"*&+*A',%"!@&',+3*0""* page 32). There are also other notable Swiss works taking place in

THIRTY DEGREES | 029

‘PHOTOVOLTAIC PANELS TO REPLACE ROOF TILES’ Christophe Ballif, as professor at the Neuchâtel laboratory for photovoltaic and thin film technology, do you see photovoltaic systems outrunning heat-based solar power stations?

These two technologies will continue to be developed in paral'"'3*D"#,.0"*!$")*,+"*D&!$*#&/5'"/"%!,+):*A$&!&G&'!,-#*!"#$nology has better potential in terms of the cost per kilowatt. It is easy to use and works even in cloudy conditions. Heat-based power stations, however, have the advantage of being able to store heat in the form of steam, which makes it possible to spread out production peaks over time, and even operate during the night. With photovoltaic technology it is necessary to combine with a hydraulic system for example to store energy.

Photovoltaic technology is also available to the general public…

Since 1999 a whole new industrial sector has been developing around the globe. Without being controlled by big monopolies, this sector has enabled the general public to plug the energy they generate back into the national networks and earn a bit of money.

In Switzerland, however, and contrarily to Japan or Spain, people still hesitate…

True. But within 5 or 10 years, solar power will be cheap enough to make installations cost-effective for anyone who has ,*+&&4:*;&2,)*!$"+"*,+"*,'+",2)*0&',+*5,%"'0*6-!$*H9C*"4<#-"%cy that cost less than CHF 100 per square metre. This means that photovoltaic panels can become building materials that ,+"*$,+2')*/&+"*"75"%0-G"*!$,%*+&&4*!-'"03*,%2*,+"*5+&<!,D'"*-4* the electricity is fed into the national grid. With 15m2 of the best solar panels you can have a yield of 3200kWh, which is equivalent to an average household’s electricity consumption.

Maybe it’s time to think again!

In Switzerland, with a thousand hours of sun each year it is possible to produce enough energy, despite what might have been said up to now. In 2025, 5 to 10% of our electricity could come from the sun…

Some time ago, it was said that producing solar panels required more energy than they were able to produce. Is that right?

It might have been right 20 years ago, but today it is estimated that energy spent on producing panels is recovered in less than 2 years, and in some cases even in 1 year.

Solar islands from Nolaris – the start up company located in Neuchâtel which is marketing the concept – should produce enough power to equal a medium-sized nuclear reactor. Now that a prototype has been built, it is up to the investors to decide whether to continue the venture or not…

the United Arab Emirates, such as the famous solar islands – vast solar waterlilies spanning over 3 km, with an 80-metre diameter prototype that has been built in the Ras al Khaimah Emirate.

Each of these lilies follows the movement of the sun in order to $",!*6,!"+*!$,!*1&60*!$+&.($*!.D"0:*;$-0*6-''*5+&2.#"*"%&.($* power to be equivalent to a medium-sized nuclear reactor. The theory has already been proven. It’s now up to the investors to decide whether to continue the venture or not.

In the meantime, Nolaris – the start up company located in Neuchâtel who is marketing the solar island concept – announced !$"*',.%#$*&4*,*%"6*I1&,!-%(*-0',%2J*0)0!"/*F,D&.!*B9/*2-,/"!"+K* at the beginning of the year, designed for the general public and Swiss businesses. These ‘islands’ will provide hot water for the buildings they are installed on, using technology similar to the Emirates lily project. According to Thomas Hinderling, the Managing Director of Nolaris, the company is “currently negotiating with several cities such as Zurich, Basle, Geneva, Neuchatel and the Canton of Vaud”.

The dawn is breaking on a new era and solar power will progres0-G"')*D"#&/"*,*$-($')*"4<#-"%!*0&.+#"*&4*"%"+()L* Some other Swiss projects : www.polesolaire.ch / www.projet-icare.ch

First Solar Boat Expedition around the Globe www.planetsolar.org

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HISTORY IN THE MAKING; SWISS SOLAR POWER

Solar Impulse

Switzerland might be a small country, but its adventurers have great ambitions. Ambitions leading much further than ordinary boundaries, whether physical or mental! The challenges in the realm of solar power are another means of expressing a need to go further and demonstrating the ability to provide scientific innovation on a global scale. Two Swiss projects are underway at the moment, with the aim of being the first vehicles to travel around the world using solar power only. The Solar Impulse plane will be taking to the airs, and the PlanetSolar boat will be braving the seas. Two different means of transport, but with one vision in common: proving that solar energy can be a viable means of helping replace our dependence on non-renewable fossil fuels.

To this end, it is essential to push back the limits of our current knowledge in terms of materials and energy management.

Let’s have a more in-depth look at the progress made by these two challenges that are set to enter into history…

i After a first historic flight of over 26 hours, Solar Impulse hopes to accomplish a round-the-world trip with stop-overs in 2013.

,

SOLAR IMPULSE For the first time ever, a plane has flown for a consecutive day and night without fuel. On the 8th of July, André Borschberg brought the Solar Impulse HB-SIA to land on the Payerne (VD) runway after 26 hours and 9 minutes of flight, at an average speed of 43 km/hour. It was the longest and highest flight in the whole history of solar-powered aircraft. A decisive step in the project started in 1999 by Bertrand Piccard. This giant of the skies – with a wingspan of just under 64 metres and weighing 1600 kg – was fitted with 12 000 photovoltaic cells. The second prototype - HB-SIB – will be built in 2011 and face other challenges. It will be designed to carry out long flights such as crossing the Atlantic Ocean. The high point of the project should take place in 2013, with the first round-the-world trip with stop-overs. www.solarimpulse.com

planetsolar 2010

s PlanetSolar should cast off for the first ever solar-powered roundthe-world trip at the end of September.

032 | THIRTY DEGREES

PLANETSOLAR Six years went by between the germ of an idea that was buzzing in Neuchâtel-based Raphaël Domjan’s head and the time his dream boat was launched. Raphaël Domjan was at the start of the PlanetSolar project and the boat was launched on 31 March this year in the Baltic Sea. From May to the end of the summer, the biggest solar-powered catamaran – 31 metres long, 15 metres wide and weighing 85 tonnes - was put to test off the Kiel shore.

The year 2010 will be rich in emotions, seeing as within the coming days (end of September), the boat will leave Monaco to do the first ever round-the-world trip using solar power, all means of transport considered. This 50 000 km adventure, with stop offs at different ports and running along the equator, should take place over 160 days – giving an average speed of 7.5 knots (14km/hour). www.planetsolar.org

CHRONIC

THE ROAD Keystone

TO PERFECTION. Text°°° RACHEL BARBEZAT

It’s a fact, the life of a thirty-something in the 21st Century is both thrilling and exhausting.

A bit like an obstacle course really. You’re only just over the first hurdle (for example, finding a partner) when you have to start thinking about the next one (for example, starting a family) while following an admirable career path and staying young and in good shape whatever happens. And that’s where the autumn blues set in! Because, let’s be honest, a youthful look rarely involves a grey complexion, stubborn wrinkles and purplish eye bags. All of a sudden, the scalpel beckons and begins to look like the ultimate solution. Yield or resist?

,

To tell you the truth, the thought crossed my mind a few years ago. That was before all those expressive actresses started looking like their wax models and before Madonna seemed younger than her daughter Lourdes. Anyway, with such bad examples, I decided to never, never give in to the lure of the facelift. All the same, having spent an evening with girls who had “done it” and who didn’t look mummified, I must admit that my convictions began to wane. Especially when one of them said, “If I were you, I’d have two or three hyaluronic

034 | THIRTY DEGREES

acid injections. In the space of an hour you can look five years younger!” You have to admit it’s tempting. Besides, according to recent surveys, thousands of women go and have plastic surgery as easily as they go shopping, and men are not much different. It’s not surprising really. Beauty has become a prerequisite for being successful, finding a job, a husband or for registering with a beautifulpeople.com website with strict selection criteria based on physique alone.

Evidently, in these extremely superficial times, stupidity is more acceptable than ugliness. The desire for perfection is so widespread that many people put their faith in “Saint Scalpel” and imagine that a visit to the surgeon is going solve all their problems. But are smoothed wrinkles really synonymous with happiness? Not guaranteed. Although plastic surgery is now more affordable, the effects don’t last as long as before. Botox injections last 3-6 months. I’ve thought about it and I think that where short-lived pleasure is concerned I prefer to go skiing for a week. After all, winter is on its way and if you want pink cheeks and a clear skin nothing beats outdoor activities.

We’ll see about perfection another time…

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JAVIER

BARDEM AN IBERIAN AT HIS PEAK Text°°° RACHEL BARBEZAT

Javier Bardem has long been considered the incarnation of virility “made in Spain”. His early, often shirtless, roles earned him his “Latin stallion” reputation.

But with time, the Iberian actor has managed to shrug off that rather belittling label. With “Biutiful”, for which he received the Best Actor award at the last Cannes film festival, the actor has again proved that he is as talented as he is successful.

,

You could even say that the dashing Spaniard’s film career was in his genes, as cinema is definitely a major part of the Bardem family. Javier’s mother is an actress, his uncle a producer and his brother and sister are actors too. With a pedigree like that, young Javier’s career seemed mapped out for him. It was fairly logical for him to appear in the TV series “El Picaro” at the age of six. Later, as a teenager, he was a rugby lover and played so well that he became a member of the Spanish national team.

Fortunately for film fans, his passion for rugby was short-lived and in the late eighties he returned to his first love, film.

The film-maker Bigas Luna discovered Bardem’s talent and attractive physique when he cast him in “The Ages of Lulu”.

The film wasn’t a hit, but Luna had found his favourite actor.

Conscious of his protégé’s talent, the Spanish director offered him the role of the toreador in the demonic “Jamon, Jamon”.

The film was a success and had the undisputed advantage of

036 | THIRTY DEGREES

establishing Bardem’s notoriety, as well as being the opportunity to meet Penelope Cruz, his hot co-star in the film. Still directed by Luna, he went on to play a misogynist playboy in the well-named film, “Macho”. His career took off, but having been cast in several roles emphasising his intense virility, he was labelled a sex-symbol. An image he wasn’t happy with.

He had to fight for his talent to be recognised in the business.

It eventually was, thanks to Manuel Gomez Pereira’s “Mouth to Mouth”, for which he was awarded the Goya prize for best actor. The ultimate accolade came in 1997. The great Pedro Almodovar chose him to play the role of a paraplegic policeman in the excellent film “Live Flesh”. He was hailed as the new Antonio Banderas. Like Banderas, he decided to take off to America and began an international career. He has starred in some powerful films, such as “The Sea Inside” that tells the true story of a tetraplegic who claims the right to die. He has also been directed by the Cohen brothers, in the mythical “No country for Old Men” for which he was awarded the Oscar for Best Actor. His latest film “Biutiful” is hailed as a masterpiece.

Glory? Check. Recognition? Check. Mr. Bardem was only missing one thing: love! And it was Woody Allen who served it up on a platter. Javier and his old friend Penelope got together on the set of Allen’s “Vicky Cristina Barcelona” and they married in July 2010. Happy endings are not just for the cinema...

Keystone

host of colourful characters â&#x20AC;Ś A writer short of inspiration, a scatterbrained bimbo, a melancholic gallery owner, a batty bookseller and an exuberant clairvoyant.

This gentle comedy is played out by actors of the highest calibre, including Naomi Watts, Antonio Banderas, Gemma Jones and Anthony Hopkins.

GEORGES CLOONEY AS A HITMAN â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Americanâ&#x20AC;? is a film in a rather different register, and with a less dazzling cast, but is sure to please thriller fanatics. The film is directed by Anton Corbijn, a musicobsessed photographer who has shot the likes of David Bowie, Miles Davis, Depeche Mode and U2, and has also made videos for numerous artists, including Coldplay and Metallica. For his first feature film, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Controlâ&#x20AC;?, released in 2007, the London-based Dane chose to focus on the tormented life of Ian Curtis, the charismatic lead singer of Joy Division who committed suicide at the age of 23. This risky choice of subject matter paid off, with Corbijn winning unanimously ecstatic reviews. Buoyed by the experience, the former rock photographer is back in the directorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chair, this time tackling a somewhat surprising genre: the action movie! He has cast the superb Georges Clooney in the lead role, in this adaptation of the novel â&#x20AC;&#x153;A Very Private Gentlemanâ&#x20AC;? by British author Martin Booth. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Americanâ&#x20AC;? tells the story of Jack, a

Text°°° RACHEL BARBEZAT

The American / Ascot Elit Entertainement

freelance hitman. When he loses the woman he loves during a botched assignment, he resolves to go straight.

But first he must honour one last contract and carry out a final mission in Italyâ&#x20AC;Ś Will Jack really be able to hang up his holster? Expect plenty of suspense.

STEALING THE MOON For something more relaxing, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing like a good animated film full of hilarious gags. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Despicable Meâ&#x20AC;?, the latest release from Universal Studios, directed by Pierre Coffin and Chris Renaud, will delight fans of the genre.

The plot is simple: an evil villain called Gru decides to attempt the biggest heist ever by stealing the moon.

But when he meets three little orphan girls his plans are thrown into disarray. Lovable characters, a clever script, caustic humour, and as an added bonusâ&#x20AC;Ś the moon in 3D! What more could you want?

TE

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038 | THIRTY DEGREES

POLA R ON

IZ

,

A P

If any filmmaker can be described as prolific, it must be Woody Allen. Since his debut as a stand-up comedian in 1965, the septuagenarian, who has gone on to be a scriptwriter, director and jazz clarinettist, has never rested on his laurels. In a career spanning 45 years, the multi-talented New Yorker has produced a body of work which is simultaneously caustic, intelligent and moving, yet always shot through with the self-mockery which is his trademark. By way of explanation for his intense productivity, Allen has explained, â&#x20AC;&#x153;When Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not working I start thinking, and when I start thinking I get depressedâ&#x20AC;?. His steady output is a way of keeping the blues at bay, and the tireless director completes a new film (almost) every year. While some simply play for laughs, like â&#x20AC;&#x153;Whatever Worksâ&#x20AC;?, others are close to cinematic masterpieces, such as â&#x20AC;&#x153;Match Pointâ&#x20AC;? (2005) or â&#x20AC;&#x153;Vicky Cristina Barcelonaâ&#x20AC;? (2008). â&#x20AC;&#x153;You Will Meet a Tall Dark Strangerâ&#x20AC;?, his latest release, returns to themes which are dear to him: ageing, romantic relationships, and death. The film, shot on location in London, follows the trials and tribulations of several couples splitting up or getting back together. In the course of this joyful imbroglio, we meet a

N

CINEMA

KAE

ANIMATION

You will meet a tall dark stranger / Frenetic Film

ACTION, EMOTION AND

â&#x201E;˘

S

This autumnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cinema releases offer something for everyone. Highbrow audiences are sure to love â&#x20AC;&#x153;You Will Meet a Tall Dark Strangerâ&#x20AC;?, action fans will enjoy â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Americanâ&#x20AC;?, and children both young and old will adore â&#x20AC;&#x153;Despicable Meâ&#x20AC;?. We take a preview of all three...

N

Despicable Me / Universal

N T E D LE

AVA I L A B L E I N P R E SCR I PT ION

SEQUENCE GOLD FRAME

s C12

LENS

NEW FOR 2010 s NOW AVAILABLE

kaenon.ch

evolve optically

ÂŽ

host of colourful characters â&#x20AC;Ś A writer short of inspiration, a scatterbrained bimbo, a melancholic gallery owner, a batty bookseller and an exuberant clairvoyant.

This gentle comedy is played out by actors of the highest calibre, including Naomi Watts, Antonio Banderas, Gemma Jones and Anthony Hopkins.

GEORGES CLOONEY AS A HITMAN â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Americanâ&#x20AC;? is a film in a rather different register, and with a less dazzling cast, but is sure to please thriller fanatics. The film is directed by Anton Corbijn, a musicobsessed photographer who has shot the likes of David Bowie, Miles Davis, Depeche Mode and U2, and has also made videos for numerous artists, including Coldplay and Metallica. For his first feature film, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Controlâ&#x20AC;?, released in 2007, the London-based Dane chose to focus on the tormented life of Ian Curtis, the charismatic lead singer of Joy Division who committed suicide at the age of 23. This risky choice of subject matter paid off, with Corbijn winning unanimously ecstatic reviews. Buoyed by the experience, the former rock photographer is back in the directorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chair, this time tackling a somewhat surprising genre: the action movie! He has cast the superb Georges Clooney in the lead role, in this adaptation of the novel â&#x20AC;&#x153;A Very Private Gentlemanâ&#x20AC;? by British author Martin Booth. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Americanâ&#x20AC;? tells the story of Jack, a

Text°°° RACHEL BARBEZAT

The American / Ascot Elit Entertainement

freelance hitman. When he loses the woman he loves during a botched assignment, he resolves to go straight.

But first he must honour one last contract and carry out a final mission in Italyâ&#x20AC;Ś Will Jack really be able to hang up his holster? Expect plenty of suspense.

STEALING THE MOON For something more relaxing, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing like a good animated film full of hilarious gags. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Despicable Meâ&#x20AC;?, the latest release from Universal Studios, directed by Pierre Coffin and Chris Renaud, will delight fans of the genre.

The plot is simple: an evil villain called Gru decides to attempt the biggest heist ever by stealing the moon.

But when he meets three little orphan girls his plans are thrown into disarray. Lovable characters, a clever script, caustic humour, and as an added bonusâ&#x20AC;Ś the moon in 3D! What more could you want?

TE

ED

038 | THIRTY DEGREES

POLA R ON

IZ

,

A P

If any filmmaker can be described as prolific, it must be Woody Allen. Since his debut as a stand-up comedian in 1965, the septuagenarian, who has gone on to be a scriptwriter, director and jazz clarinettist, has never rested on his laurels. In a career spanning 45 years, the multi-talented New Yorker has produced a body of work which is simultaneously caustic, intelligent and moving, yet always shot through with the self-mockery which is his trademark. By way of explanation for his intense productivity, Allen has explained, â&#x20AC;&#x153;When Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not working I start thinking, and when I start thinking I get depressedâ&#x20AC;?. His steady output is a way of keeping the blues at bay, and the tireless director completes a new film (almost) every year. While some simply play for laughs, like â&#x20AC;&#x153;Whatever Worksâ&#x20AC;?, others are close to cinematic masterpieces, such as â&#x20AC;&#x153;Match Pointâ&#x20AC;? (2005) or â&#x20AC;&#x153;Vicky Cristina Barcelonaâ&#x20AC;? (2008). â&#x20AC;&#x153;You Will Meet a Tall Dark Strangerâ&#x20AC;?, his latest release, returns to themes which are dear to him: ageing, romantic relationships, and death. The film, shot on location in London, follows the trials and tribulations of several couples splitting up or getting back together. In the course of this joyful imbroglio, we meet a

N

CINEMA

KAE

ANIMATION

You will meet a tall dark stranger / Frenetic Film

ACTION, EMOTION AND

â&#x201E;˘

S

This autumnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cinema releases offer something for everyone. Highbrow audiences are sure to love â&#x20AC;&#x153;You Will Meet a Tall Dark Strangerâ&#x20AC;?, action fans will enjoy â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Americanâ&#x20AC;?, and children both young and old will adore â&#x20AC;&#x153;Despicable Meâ&#x20AC;?. We take a preview of all three...

N

Despicable Me / Universal

N T E D LE

AVA I L A B L E I N P R E SCR I PT ION

SEQUENCE GOLD FRAME

s C12

LENS

NEW FOR 2010 s NOW AVAILABLE

kaenon.ch

evolve optically

ÂŽ

The Californian group Train have been chasing success since they first tasted it in 2001 with the single “Drops of Jupiter”, the title track of their second album. The record remained in the US Hot 100 singles charts for over a year, and won a Grammy Award for Best Rock Song. Train seemed to be going places, especially after “Calling All Angels” and “When I Look to the Sky”, taken from their third album “My Private Nation”, received extensive radio play. However, the alternative rock group eventually began to seem like something of a one-hit wonder. While they bounced back on occasion, with the song “Ordinary” for example, which featured in the film Spider Man 2 in 2004 and was used again in 2007 in the series “Heroes”, their fourth album, released in 2006, went almost unnoticed. This difficult period persuaded the band to take a break, during which lead singer Pat Monahan sought to build a solo career, again without great success.

TRAIN BACK ON THE RIGHT TRACK Text°°° FRÉDÉRIC REIN

After a three-year hiatus, the Californian alt-rockers are back with their fifth album, reminiscent of their smash hit long-player “Drops of Jupiter”, which brought them international fame in 2001. A true return to form.

040 | THIRTY DEGREES

Mark Holthusen

,

A NECESSARY BREAK In 2009, the three original members jumped back on the wagon. “The break allowed us to realise how important we were to each other, and to see what we each bring to the group”, explains Pat Monahan. So, fifteen years after their debut, they recorded their fifth album, “Save me, San Francisco”, released in Europe a few weeks ago.

With this new record, the trio seem to be back on the right track at last! The track which led them, in 2001, to create a distinctive blend of pop-rock tinged with blues and reggae, and which has now led them back to glory, with “Hey, Soul Sister”, the first single to be taken from the album, reaching the top of the iTunes sales chart on the other side of the Atlantic. “I always wanted to write a song in the style of INXS”, reveals Pat Monahan.

So when Norwegian producers Espen Lind and Amund Bjorklund began to play a piece of music which sounded like INXS, I wrote the words to “Hey, Soul Sister” to go with the melody”.

This song is a good reflection of the new album, which has an autobiographical element and looks back to the group’s early days. “It’s our way of expressing our thanks and gratitude to the city of San Francisco, which gave us the best days of our lives, and which was the first place to appreciate our music”, explains Pat Monahan. The album also includes numerous references to the past, notably to stars of American pop music such as Mr Mister and Madonna.

This nostalgia is also evident in the light, gentle sound, reminiscent of the band at their peak in 2001. “The sound is quite basic”, agrees the singer, “but the catchy riffs and melodies mean there’s no need for all those big production tricks”. Gorgeous and engrossing, this fifth album offers us a reminder, as autumn approaches, of the joys of summer. And it may also offer Train a reminder of the great success they once enjoyed…DR

GPSmap 62 The new hiking GPS Rugged and waterproof Easy to use with icons With topo map of Switzerland: "Topo Suisse"

Catch Train in concert in Switzerland on 30 October at Kaufleuten in Zurich, and 31 October at Kofmehl in Soleure.

www.garmin.ch

The Californian group Train have been chasing success since they first tasted it in 2001 with the single “Drops of Jupiter”, the title track of their second album. The record remained in the US Hot 100 singles charts for over a year, and won a Grammy Award for Best Rock Song. Train seemed to be going places, especially after “Calling All Angels” and “When I Look to the Sky”, taken from their third album “My Private Nation”, received extensive radio play. However, the alternative rock group eventually began to seem like something of a one-hit wonder. While they bounced back on occasion, with the song “Ordinary” for example, which featured in the film Spider Man 2 in 2004 and was used again in 2007 in the series “Heroes”, their fourth album, released in 2006, went almost unnoticed. This difficult period persuaded the band to take a break, during which lead singer Pat Monahan sought to build a solo career, again without great success.

TRAIN BACK ON THE RIGHT TRACK Text°°° FRÉDÉRIC REIN

After a three-year hiatus, the Californian alt-rockers are back with their fifth album, reminiscent of their smash hit long-player “Drops of Jupiter”, which brought them international fame in 2001. A true return to form.

040 | THIRTY DEGREES

Mark Holthusen

,

A NECESSARY BREAK In 2009, the three original members jumped back on the wagon. “The break allowed us to realise how important we were to each other, and to see what we each bring to the group”, explains Pat Monahan. So, fifteen years after their debut, they recorded their fifth album, “Save me, San Francisco”, released in Europe a few weeks ago.

With this new record, the trio seem to be back on the right track at last! The track which led them, in 2001, to create a distinctive blend of pop-rock tinged with blues and reggae, and which has now led them back to glory, with “Hey, Soul Sister”, the first single to be taken from the album, reaching the top of the iTunes sales chart on the other side of the Atlantic. “I always wanted to write a song in the style of INXS”, reveals Pat Monahan.

So when Norwegian producers Espen Lind and Amund Bjorklund began to play a piece of music which sounded like INXS, I wrote the words to “Hey, Soul Sister” to go with the melody”.

This song is a good reflection of the new album, which has an autobiographical element and looks back to the group’s early days. “It’s our way of expressing our thanks and gratitude to the city of San Francisco, which gave us the best days of our lives, and which was the first place to appreciate our music”, explains Pat Monahan. The album also includes numerous references to the past, notably to stars of American pop music such as Mr Mister and Madonna.

This nostalgia is also evident in the light, gentle sound, reminiscent of the band at their peak in 2001. “The sound is quite basic”, agrees the singer, “but the catchy riffs and melodies mean there’s no need for all those big production tricks”. Gorgeous and engrossing, this fifth album offers us a reminder, as autumn approaches, of the joys of summer. And it may also offer Train a reminder of the great success they once enjoyed…DR

GPSmap 62 The new hiking GPS Rugged and waterproof Easy to use with icons With topo map of Switzerland: "Topo Suisse"

Catch Train in concert in Switzerland on 30 October at Kaufleuten in Zurich, and 31 October at Kofmehl in Soleure.

www.garmin.ch

Text°°° FRÉDÉRIC REIN The bodies are naked. They intertwine and connect with each other, at times standing, at times lying down, even kneeling. They candidly offer themselves to the photo lens, in all their variety. When the tunic is removed, Spencer Tunick gets down to work. The 43-year-old New Yorker has certainly created an exceptional body of work, in which the voluntary participants lose their individualism, becoming elements in a fleeting, flesh-coloured geometric pattern, captured by the camera as a witness to this moment of creation.

With his “human constructions”, organised all over the world, Spencer Tunick is unrivalled in his capacity to persuade people to shed their clothes. In 2003 he brought

SPENCER

TUNICK

The New York artist uses naked volunteers to create human landscapes. His work, now admired all over the world, was not always so popular. Arresting images indeed…

g Hundreds of people posing naked on Aletsch glacier for a photo shoot near Bettmeralp, Switzerland, on Saturday 18 August 2007. f Over 5000 people posing naked on the steps of Sydney Opera House, Australia, 1 March 2010.

Keystone

AN EXCEPTIONAL BODY OF WORK

Keystone

Keystone

,

together 3,000 volunteers in Barcelona, then smashed his own record in 2007 when 18,000 people filled a square in Mexico city’s historic centre. In the same year, working with Greenpeace, he shot 600 nudists on the Aletsch glacier in Switzerland, in order to draw attention to ice depletion as a result of global warming. He continued his collaboration with the ecological group in 2009, when 700 participants took part in a photo shoot in the vineyards of southern Burgundy.

Since 2005, he has completed 3 to 5 “installations” per year. In 2010, he has captured 5,200 nudes in front of Sydney Opera House and 4,000 in an English park, and his most recent happening was held in August at the Aurillac International Street Theatre and Arts Festival in France.

But things were not always so simple. He took his first photos of nudes in the streets of New York in 1992, and so began a difficult relationship with the US authorities.

During the 1990s, Spencer Tunick was even imprisoned on several occasions for daring to display images of public nudity. Notoriety is always useful of course, and his time in jail is today the stuff of legend. Nowadays, everyone wants him to come to their town. And while his human landscapes may continue to be seen by some as provocative or voyeuristic, they are all imbued with a genuine sense of humanity.

Want to take part?

Register at www.spencertunick.com.

THIRTY DEGREES | 043

Text°°° FRÉDÉRIC REIN The bodies are naked. They intertwine and connect with each other, at times standing, at times lying down, even kneeling. They candidly offer themselves to the photo lens, in all their variety. When the tunic is removed, Spencer Tunick gets down to work. The 43-year-old New Yorker has certainly created an exceptional body of work, in which the voluntary participants lose their individualism, becoming elements in a fleeting, flesh-coloured geometric pattern, captured by the camera as a witness to this moment of creation.

With his “human constructions”, organised all over the world, Spencer Tunick is unrivalled in his capacity to persuade people to shed their clothes. In 2003 he brought

SPENCER

TUNICK

The New York artist uses naked volunteers to create human landscapes. His work, now admired all over the world, was not always so popular. Arresting images indeed…

g Hundreds of people posing naked on Aletsch glacier for a photo shoot near Bettmeralp, Switzerland, on Saturday 18 August 2007. f Over 5000 people posing naked on the steps of Sydney Opera House, Australia, 1 March 2010.

Keystone

AN EXCEPTIONAL BODY OF WORK

Keystone

Keystone

,

together 3,000 volunteers in Barcelona, then smashed his own record in 2007 when 18,000 people filled a square in Mexico city’s historic centre. In the same year, working with Greenpeace, he shot 600 nudists on the Aletsch glacier in Switzerland, in order to draw attention to ice depletion as a result of global warming. He continued his collaboration with the ecological group in 2009, when 700 participants took part in a photo shoot in the vineyards of southern Burgundy.

Since 2005, he has completed 3 to 5 “installations” per year. In 2010, he has captured 5,200 nudes in front of Sydney Opera House and 4,000 in an English park, and his most recent happening was held in August at the Aurillac International Street Theatre and Arts Festival in France.

But things were not always so simple. He took his first photos of nudes in the streets of New York in 1992, and so began a difficult relationship with the US authorities.

During the 1990s, Spencer Tunick was even imprisoned on several occasions for daring to display images of public nudity. Notoriety is always useful of course, and his time in jail is today the stuff of legend. Nowadays, everyone wants him to come to their town. And while his human landscapes may continue to be seen by some as provocative or voyeuristic, they are all imbued with a genuine sense of humanity.

Want to take part?

Register at www.spencertunick.com.

THIRTY DEGREES | 043

HOT ON THE TRAIL OF THE WORLD’S MOST EXTREME RACES

Text°°° SYLVAIN BAZIN Endurance races are highly popular. But the ones we are going to talk about are for the most seasoned, most enthusiastic athletes. They draw extreme runners onto hostile and mighty terrains. An overview of the craziest races in the world...

,

S P O RT

THE “MOUNTAIN CONTINENT”: THE HIMAL RACE 900 km in 23 stages, at an altitude of between 2000 and 5700 metres; Nepal and Tibet (Himalayas).

This epic race is no doubt the harshest of the world’s races.

Nearly 900 km long, over 40 000 metres of hilly terrain in 23 stages, practically without assistance, with a fifteen kilo backpack.

This race is for experts only, for a privileged few who launch themselves on a dash across the Himalayas, from the foot of Mount Kailash considered sacred by Buddhists and Hindus, through the secret regions of Dolpo and the Hidden Valley. The itinerary takes the adventurers to the southern base camp of the Annapurnas.

Next race: October 2010 www.basecamptrek.com

These races are the stuff of dreams...and disappointments; they are among the most beautiful and the most demanding in the world. From hot to cold, from desert to mountain or jungle, they call upon their participants to surpass themselves in extreme conditions and over distances that seem endless. Let’s take a closer look at five legendary races.

organisation

THE GREEN HELL: THE GUYAN’TRAIL 200 km in seven stages; French Guyana (South America).

i Heat, sand, and dunes as far as the eye can see: the immensity of the Akakus desert is the setting for the Libyan Challenge. f Intense cold and icy plains – you’d better be cool-minded to do the Yukon Arctic Ultra!

Running in the Amazon jungle is a bit like doing press-ups in a sauna: not easy. Except that here, apart from the sweat and the heat, you also have to deal with creepers, steep slopes and long straights in lush vegetation all under the watchful eyes of iguanas and monkeys. This tropical race is also one of the most beautiful in the world.

Next race: March 2011.

DESERT AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE: LIBYAN CHALLENGE 215 km non-stop without assistance; Akakus desert, Libya and North Africa.

The Libyan Challenge crosses the desert of Akakus, with 215 km of sand and stones. This race is non-stop with no assistance.

Runners use their Satellite Navigation systems to find their way. Only the tents containing water, tea and camp beds, placed every 20 km break the isolation in this vast open space where vegetation is nowhere to be found. The runners set their gaze on the horizon, wonder at the fabulous striations in the rock, but keep going, occasionally bathed in the light of the full moon.

Next race: February 2011 www.libyanchallenge.com

organisation

WHITE HELL: YUKON ARCTIC ULTRA Between 42 and 666 km; Yukon, Canada, and the northern US.

044 | THIRTY DEGREES

Don’t mind the cold? Fancy vast, flat, icy, isolated plains? Then this race is for you! In return for a fair dose of effort (including

THIRTY DEGREES | 045

HOT ON THE TRAIL OF THE WORLD’S MOST EXTREME RACES

Text°°° SYLVAIN BAZIN Endurance races are highly popular. But the ones we are going to talk about are for the most seasoned, most enthusiastic athletes. They draw extreme runners onto hostile and mighty terrains. An overview of the craziest races in the world...

,

S P O RT

THE “MOUNTAIN CONTINENT”: THE HIMAL RACE 900 km in 23 stages, at an altitude of between 2000 and 5700 metres; Nepal and Tibet (Himalayas).

This epic race is no doubt the harshest of the world’s races.

Nearly 900 km long, over 40 000 metres of hilly terrain in 23 stages, practically without assistance, with a fifteen kilo backpack.

This race is for experts only, for a privileged few who launch themselves on a dash across the Himalayas, from the foot of Mount Kailash considered sacred by Buddhists and Hindus, through the secret regions of Dolpo and the Hidden Valley. The itinerary takes the adventurers to the southern base camp of the Annapurnas.

Next race: October 2010 www.basecamptrek.com

These races are the stuff of dreams...and disappointments; they are among the most beautiful and the most demanding in the world. From hot to cold, from desert to mountain or jungle, they call upon their participants to surpass themselves in extreme conditions and over distances that seem endless. Let’s take a closer look at five legendary races.

organisation

THE GREEN HELL: THE GUYAN’TRAIL 200 km in seven stages; French Guyana (South America).

i Heat, sand, and dunes as far as the eye can see: the immensity of the Akakus desert is the setting for the Libyan Challenge. f Intense cold and icy plains – you’d better be cool-minded to do the Yukon Arctic Ultra!

Running in the Amazon jungle is a bit like doing press-ups in a sauna: not easy. Except that here, apart from the sweat and the heat, you also have to deal with creepers, steep slopes and long straights in lush vegetation all under the watchful eyes of iguanas and monkeys. This tropical race is also one of the most beautiful in the world.

Next race: March 2011.

DESERT AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE: LIBYAN CHALLENGE 215 km non-stop without assistance; Akakus desert, Libya and North Africa.

The Libyan Challenge crosses the desert of Akakus, with 215 km of sand and stones. This race is non-stop with no assistance.

Runners use their Satellite Navigation systems to find their way. Only the tents containing water, tea and camp beds, placed every 20 km break the isolation in this vast open space where vegetation is nowhere to be found. The runners set their gaze on the horizon, wonder at the fabulous striations in the rock, but keep going, occasionally bathed in the light of the full moon.

Next race: February 2011 www.libyanchallenge.com

organisation

WHITE HELL: YUKON ARCTIC ULTRA Between 42 and 666 km; Yukon, Canada, and the northern US.

044 | THIRTY DEGREES

Don’t mind the cold? Fancy vast, flat, icy, isolated plains? Then this race is for you! In return for a fair dose of effort (including

THIRTY DEGREES | 045

p A perilous effort – runners must cross many passes over 5’000 m above sea level during the Himal Race.

046 | THIRTY DEGREES

A lake as big as an inland sea, immense steppes, 3000 m high mountains and deep, dark forests, home to bears and wolves. This is the unique, superb backdrop for what is considered to be the most beautiful 100 km in the world.

Each year, a hundred runners from all over the world attempt to finish the race before the sun goes down. In the region of Lake Kovsgol in the North of Mongolia and to the south of Siberia, races are only run during the day. After night fall, only animals and the spirits of the lake and the mountains are allowed to roam.

Next race: July 2011. www.ultramongolia.com

Sylvain Bazin

Sylvain Bazin

p The treacherous jungle awaits the Guyan’trail runners.

CROSSING WIDE OPEN SPACES: MONGOLIA SUNRISE TO SUNSET. 100 km in one go, to be completed in less than 18 hours; Mongolia, in the Kovsgol lake area.

Sylvain Bazin

o The vast open plains of Mongolia are an invitation to take on the Sunrise to Sunset challenge.

pulling a sleigh) and a huge amount of determination, you can cross this ocean of ice, covering a distance of 42 to 666 km depending on which route you choose.

It’s just you, the wintry weather and the immensity of the challenge. There are only a few check points and your opponents to bring a bit of warmth to the Ultra, the coldest race in the world.

Next race: February 2011 www.arcticultra.de/

Sylvain Bazin

i A dash across the Himalayas wearing a backpack: the Himal Race is without doubt the longest race in the world.

A CHALLENGE FOR ALL

TVSB

VERBIER SAINT-BERNARD

This is a demanding race.

Nearly 110 km with 7000 metres of hilly terrain.

You’re not running against your opponents, you’re up against yourself. We spoke to two athletes who crossed the finish line nearly 15 hours apart, but who each achieved their objective.

Text°°° SYLVAIN BAZIN

048 | THIRTY DEGREES

g The confident style and winning stride of German Uli Calmbach not surprisingly resulted in a triumphant first place in the ‘Loop’.

The steep terrain of the ‘Loop’ has more than 7’000 m of hills to challenge the runners.

François Perraudv in

30 HOURS OF RUNNING Sunday, 4 July 12.30pm: another tall, slender figure arrived in Verbier main square. The stride was less nimble and the gait less flowing, but he punched the air in the same sign of victory.

Francky Toutoute Fauconnier, from the Paris region in France, finished in a little over 30 hours, nearly double Uli Calmbach’s time. But that didn’t matter to Francky. He was happy. Despite the difficulties (snow, storm and dizziness that he managed to

overcome by concentrating very hard) he finished the gruelling race. What a great way to make up for last year when he had to stop just 5 km before the UMTB finish line!

Francky and Uli share a pleasure of running and achieving a personal challenge. They both moved mountains to reach their goals. And that’s exactly the essence of a race as long and as difficult as the TVSB.

The crowd at the kick-off for the ‘Crossing’ at La Fouly.

TVSB

Verbier, Saturday 3 July, 6.35pm. A tall slender figure crossed the finish line of the Trail Verbier SaintBernard (TVSB) in the middle of the resort. Uli Calmbach was the winner of the second edition of this race. He came first in the “Loop”, the main event which covers 110 km including 7000 metres of hilly terrain – although there are more participants for the 61 km “Crossing”. The German raised his arms above his head. He’s no novice as he has one of the finest track records in this field. Yet his natural discretion, his slightly quirky appearance, bald head and battered glasses, mean he doesn’t look like a star. Last year he finished 4th in the Ultra-Trail du MontBlanc (UTMB), the number one race in this category. This time he beat an impressive array of athletes and won hands down. “I took things fairly easy to start with and was in 10th place. Then I gradually moved up. When I eventually took the lead around the 90 k mark, after the Mille cabin, I gritted my teeth to keep my place as I was suffering from cramp”, he remarked with a stiff grin that was an indication of physical pain, intense joy and relief at having finished. He can now return home to Stuttgart, savour his success and get back to training in the nearby hills. “There are no real mountains near where I live, so I do lots of hills to prepare for races. I love running in the mountains when I can”, he added. His pleasure at running on these paths was obvious from the look on his face. Once again, Uli deserved his place at the top.

,

MOUNTAIN BIKING FOR ALL

ANZĂ&#x2C6;RE S P O RT

A Rhone Valley resort with two lovely permanent routes and magnificent trails that take you right down to the plain. A delightful place set in breathtaking Alpine landscapes.

Find out moreâ&#x20AC;Ś

Dominik Raab on a demonstrably challenging part of the trail

MOUNTAIN BIKING FOR ALL

ANZĂ&#x2C6;RE S P O RT

A Rhone Valley resort with two lovely permanent routes and magnificent trails that take you right down to the plain. A delightful place set in breathtaking Alpine landscapes.

Find out moreâ&#x20AC;Ś

Dominik Raab on a demonstrably challenging part of the trail

Text°°° ALBAN AUBERT Photos°°° PATRICE SCHREYER At a height of 1500 metres above sea level, Anzère is known to be a perfect spot for families. The village is now also an attractive area for mountain biking, with trails for experienced to beginner riders. The Krypto track (an easy red grade) is just right for people wanting to try out downhill biking for the first time, without coming across steep slopes or vertical rocks. It’s fairly wide, not too steep, and even has a few jumps to offer, for people who have done this sort of thing before. Starting out at the first stop of the cable car, the ride takes you through pastureland and then into the forest.

It’s a fun route with beautiful views, and even experienced mountain bikers will enjoy the ride.

This variety of opportunities is not new to Anzère. The village offers peace and quiet alongside many attractions and activities (swimming pool, paragliding, astronomy…).

Not forgetting the panoramic view from the top of the cable car – absolutely stunning! On one side you have a magnificent view over the Rhone valley, and on the other you can see the rugged cliffs stretching out over the whole resort, including the infamous Sex Rouge (oh yes, you’d better believe it!). This is also the starting point for downhill competition riding, with the Cyclone route. This exhilarating trail is for experienced riders and takes you to the place where the downhill race officially begins. The trail is graded black (difficult) and there’s no doubt about it. It was created five years ago by two mountain biking fanatics who carved it out of the mountain

,

052 | THIRTY DEGREES

with a pair of pick axes. The two bike-lovers now work for the tourist information office where they strive to promote this sport that is relatively new to the Alpine resorts. The two fans are also members of the Kryptonitehill Association, which organises several mountain biking events in the village. The top event of the year is certainly the Krypto Downhill Cup, which takes place towards the end of the season (25 and 26 September this year).

p Hannes Klausner at top speed on the Cyclone route f Alban Aubert in hot pursuit of Cédric Jost s Cédric, rider and trail creator, at the entrance to the canyon

Text°°° ALBAN AUBERT Photos°°° PATRICE SCHREYER At a height of 1500 metres above sea level, Anzère is known to be a perfect spot for families. The village is now also an attractive area for mountain biking, with trails for experienced to beginner riders. The Krypto track (an easy red grade) is just right for people wanting to try out downhill biking for the first time, without coming across steep slopes or vertical rocks. It’s fairly wide, not too steep, and even has a few jumps to offer, for people who have done this sort of thing before. Starting out at the first stop of the cable car, the ride takes you through pastureland and then into the forest.

It’s a fun route with beautiful views, and even experienced mountain bikers will enjoy the ride.

This variety of opportunities is not new to Anzère. The village offers peace and quiet alongside many attractions and activities (swimming pool, paragliding, astronomy…).

Not forgetting the panoramic view from the top of the cable car – absolutely stunning! On one side you have a magnificent view over the Rhone valley, and on the other you can see the rugged cliffs stretching out over the whole resort, including the infamous Sex Rouge (oh yes, you’d better believe it!). This is also the starting point for downhill competition riding, with the Cyclone route. This exhilarating trail is for experienced riders and takes you to the place where the downhill race officially begins. The trail is graded black (difficult) and there’s no doubt about it. It was created five years ago by two mountain biking fanatics who carved it out of the mountain

,

052 | THIRTY DEGREES

with a pair of pick axes. The two bike-lovers now work for the tourist information office where they strive to promote this sport that is relatively new to the Alpine resorts. The two fans are also members of the Kryptonitehill Association, which organises several mountain biking events in the village. The top event of the year is certainly the Krypto Downhill Cup, which takes place towards the end of the season (25 and 26 September this year).

p Hannes Klausner at top speed on the Cyclone route f Alban Aubert in hot pursuit of Cédric Jost s Cédric, rider and trail creator, at the entrance to the canyon

TAKE A BREAK AT TSALAN The Cyclone route is natural and most of the trail has been hand-made, without the help of machines. That’s a feat in itself ! In the early stages it runs through pastureland and riders can really make the most of the lie of the land. A few wooden passageways have been created to help get over obstacles. It’s worth noting that all wooden sections have been given a non-slip coating, which is rarely the case in other resorts. Half way along the track you come to a long section along a ridge, which will take you on an exhilarating high-speed ride towards an impressive chalet: Tsalan gite.

This is an ideal spot for trying out some local specialities. They also have dormitories where you can spend the night. The huge terrace seems to have been specially designed for riders to sit back and take in the sunset while talking about their most memorable rides. The next section of the route enters the forest and makes the most of a small valley surrounded by century-old pine trees. The track ends with a scree section where machines have been used to carve the bends into the mountainside.

A high-speed downhill road takes you back to the cable car, crossing rivers which are perfect for jumps.

Anzère has more than permanent tracks to offer. For those who like endurance biking there are several routes that go to Sion, at the bottom of the valley. The route going through Arbois and the Sionne valley is without doubt the most appropriate. If you’re still looking for more after everything we’ve just described, for an extra 5 franc fee you can go to the nearby Crans Montana Bike Park. Anzère might not yet be recognised as an absolute must-do for mountain bikers, but it’s got all it takes to give the most demanding riders an excellent and exciting time…

BIKE PARK: http://www.anzere.ch/fr/activites/ete/velo-vtt/ http://www.kryptonitehill.com PRICE Day pass (rider + mountain bike): CHF 25, CHF 30 with access to Crans Montana.

For children (age 6 to 15): 11 francs.

PLACES TO GO: Dahu Bar, 027/398.26.95 SLEEPING OUT: If you are looking for peace and quiet you can sleep along the routes, and enjoy the awe-inspiring views at the same time!

Tsalan Gite: CHF 30 per night in a dormitory (take your sleeping bag), or CHF 55 half-board. Call 079/270.76.24 for information and bookings.

SPECIAL OFFERS: 3-day Bike Park pass and 3 nights at a hotel, half-board, for CHF 299.

054 | THIRTY DEGREES

Plus de 100 ans d’avance – présentés sans détour.

La dernière-née de la gamme Audi réunit toutes les valeurs de la marque dans de nouvelles dimensions. L’Audi A1 est le premier véhicule compact alliant sportivité et rendement élevé, tout en répondant aux exigences les plus pointues.

Son design racé et avant-gardiste séduit d’emblée. L’Audi A1 offre également de la place aux occupants – et à vos désirs d’individualité. Elle se laisse en effet personnaliser à souhait – notamment grâce au choix de teintes contrastées pour l’arche de toit ou de packs de design destinés à l’habitacle. De quoi rendre l’Audi A1 encore plus unique qu’elle ne l’est déjà. Envie de la tester? Votre partenaire Audi se réjouit de vous accueillir. Vous trouverez la liste des concessionnaires les plus proches et plus d’informations relatives à l’Audi A1 sur www.audi.ch/a1

CYCLING IN TIBET

Kagbeni, the gateway to the Upper Dolpo - 2 900 metres above sea level.

LDD

CROSSING THE HIMALAYAS

FROM EAST TO WEST ON A MOUNTAIN BIKE

Text°°° SYLVAIN BAZIN Jean-Michel Jorda has been mountain biking in Nepal since 2006. His journey from Kathmandu to the Everest base camp gave rise to an initial documentary entitled Cycling Himalaya. The film was about the sport, but that wasn’t all. To Jean-Michel, the physical challenge of cycling in places that are not designed for bicycles is really a pretext to meet people and discover different cultures along the way. ”People are intrigued by the bicycle and it often sparks off conversation. Cycling is the basic theme of the film but it isn’t the main point of it.”, he says.

Following the first expedition, the adventurer with a camera took on a new challenge this year: he left from Kathmandu aiming for the slopes of the Kailash, a sacred mountain in the Buddhist and Hindu religions, on Chinese territory, in Tibet.

This ambitious project involved crossing several passes at over 5,000 metres and crossing very poor, isolated regions, especially beyond the Upper Dolpo. Jean-Michel endured several physically and psychologically difficult periods, but had a

,

056 | THIRTY DEGREES

memorable experience: “This trip gave me a really deep feeling of living, existing.” he says. “As the difficulties presented themselves, the trip turned into a pilgrimage. I really felt the inner quest that draws you to a sacred place.”

The legendary mountain became to symbolise the point of liberation and a goal to be reached. But it wasn’t difficult all the way: Jean-Michel met plenty of interesting people, full of the humanity that he seeks above all. “I had a problem with my bicycle in Charka, a village in Upper Dolpo. I was about to cross the pass, carrying my bike, when a villager came to meet me. We crossed the pass together, with my bike on his horse’s back”. This emotional encounter and more impressive shots can be found in Jean-Michel’s new documentary, Cycling Tibet, which conveys his feelings during this extraordinary journey.

The Cycling Tibet DVD is available on www.imajprod.com

A young girl welcomes Jean-Michel Jorda with a smile.

LDD

Last May, the documentary maker Jean-Michel Jorda left Kathmandu on his mountain bike and headed for Mount Kailash in Tibet, over 1250 km away across the summits of the Himalayas. This revealing journey soon began to look like a pilgrimage.

S P O RT

freerideworldtour.com / T.Repo

As of now, this competition will comprise six events held between the end of January and the end of March each year. A stop in Austria and closer links with the American league are the major happenings of the promising forthcoming edition Text°°° VINCENT GILLIOZ The next Freeride World Tour (FRWT) will start in January 2011 and is set to be particularly intense, with six meetings scheduled before the end of March. L’Engadinsnow in St. Moritz and the Big Mountain in Fieberbrunn, Austria, are the new additions to the usual four competitions on the tour.

The finals will continue to be held in Verbier each year, on the well-known Bec des Rosses.

Nicolas Hale-Wood, founder and organiser of the FRWT is pleased with the brand’s development, which he sees as marking a new era for freeride. “The Austrians have changed their point of view. They didn’t used to be fans as these sports had a daredevil image. Fieberbrunn is now focussing its tourist advertising on freeride.” he says.

,

LINKS WITH THE USA The American event, which has hitherto been held at Squaw Valley, will now take place in Kirkwood. The FRWT is now part of the American championship. “This creates a lot more interaction between Europe and the US. In the future, we may even have a single world championship.” says Hale-Wood. The qualifiers schedule is also undergoing change. There were 11 qualifiers in 2010. At the moment, several resorts would like to host a qualifier but the Freeride World Tour cannot say yes to everyone. So, for example, the Swiss meetings in Morgins, Zinal and Chandolin will be part of what Hale-Wood calls the FRWT “division 2”.

ONLY THE CHOSEN FEW GET A WILD CARD The skiers Thovex, Zackrisson and Widmesser are expected to attend, along with the snowboarders Le Rue and Bock, as well as

058 | THIRTY DEGREES

the other seeds in the 2010 rankings. The top skiers and boarders in the 2010 qualifiers will also join the tour (top 3 skiers and top 2 snowboarders for men and top 2 skiers and top boarder for women). A few wild cards will also be available, “but it’s a difficult task as we cannot cater for all the demand” says the organiser. “We want to open up the competition to new talent selected on the basis of nationality as well as performance so as to even out each country’s representation in the various disciplines.”

The winners of the wild cards will be announced this autumn.

THE 6 EVENTS FOR 2011 1. Nissan Freeride by Swatch Chamonix (FRA), 21-28 January.

2. Nissan Engadinsnow by Swatch St. Moritz (SUI), 29 January-4 February.

3. Nissan Russian Adventure Sochi (RUS), 18-23 February.

4. North American Championship by Swatch Kirkwood (USA), 26 February-4 March.

5. Big Mountain Fieberbrunn (AUT), 11-17 March.

6. Nissan Xtreme by Swatch Verbier (SUI), 18-27 March.

freerideworldtour.com / T.Repo

TWO NEW STOPS IN THE FREERIDE WORLD TOUR 2011

Nouveau Monde DDB - 344 446 810 RCS ANNECY - Photos : Christoffer Sjöström et Domino.

* Le monde a besoin de vos yeux.

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I career down instinctively, confident, light, just for a bit of fun."

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f The crossing between the Tacul and the Maudit at daybreak is one of the highlights of ascending Mont-Blanc.

SKIING

ON MONT BLANC

While the popular areas of Mont Blanc are often overcrowded in summer, for those who enjoy ski touring, the spring remains the ideal season for a trek up to the ‘roof of Europe’, with the added bonus of superb light and a unique descent.

p The final crest on the slope represents the last haul before reaching the summit.

MEMORABLE, YET OFF THE BEATEN PATH Text°°° VINCENT GILLIOZ Photos°°° PHILIPPE SCHILLER Ascending to the roof of Western Europe is for many people the challenge of a lifetime, the ultimate dream, an experience to tell the grandchildren about. Yet quite a few return from the peak after a summer visit feeling rather disappointed by the throngs encountered on the popular runs.

The reality of Mont Blanc in the summer is certainly rather underwhelming, with hundreds of tourists and climbers crowding the mountain top, detracting from much of the charm of the climb. There is little feeling of adventure, and the summit plateau looks almost like an amusement park, despite the long and strenuous effort required to get there. The era of HoraceBénédict de Saussure now seems long gone, the mystique has largely disappeared, and any remaining pleasure is mitigated.

,

And yet, Mont Blanc represents a genuinely superb climb which everyone should try to make at least once. It’s simply a question of choosing the right time of year for your visit, outside the busiest months. April and May (or even earlier, depending on snow conditions) are ideal, when visitor numbers are often in single figures, especially on week days.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT ROUTE As the only mountain to offer four standard routes of little technical difficulty, on its north-west and north-east ridges, Mont Blanc has two principal ski-touring paths, the Trois Mont-Blanc and the Grands Mulets. The latter ascent remains controversial however, and the Chamonix guides do not recommend it. It runs from Plan l’Aiguille (2300m), the mid-

point station of Aiguille du Midi, and involves a perilous crossing under the Glacier Rond, where there are frequent serac (unstable towers of ice) and rock falls. It is therefore advisable to hurry on to the Jonction glacier, which is itself exceptionally fissured. The Grands Mulets refuge (3051m) is then within easy reach. Those who have chosen this route will leave their cabin at around one o’clock in the morning to make their way under the north ridge of the Dôme and up to the Petit Plateau. Here too, there is a high risk of serac fall and speed of movement is one way of reducing exposure. The skiers will then reach the Grand Plateau, the Col du Dôme and, finally, the route along the Bosses ridge. It is also possible to travel via the north ridge of the Dôme to avoid potential exposure to serac fall, but the ascent takes a little longer.

THE REFUGE DES COSMIQUES Those who prefer to play it safe will certainly opt for the Trois Mont Blanc route, which is longer but less undulating. This path is also more scenic and has greater diversity. The descent, which is via the Grands Mulets in any case, therefore offers the possibility of combining both routes. The Refuge des Cosmiques, located at 3613m, just below the Aiguille du Midi, can be reached from the Aiguille du Midi in less than an hour.

It is therefore possible to take the last cable car to Chamonix and arrive in time for souper. The comfort of the surroundings represents a considerable plus, even if the nights are always too short on this kind of outing. Departures, indeed, must take place very early, and most people will be en route by around

THIRTY DEGREES | 061

f The crossing between the Tacul and the Maudit at daybreak is one of the highlights of ascending Mont-Blanc.

SKIING

ON MONT BLANC

While the popular areas of Mont Blanc are often overcrowded in summer, for those who enjoy ski touring, the spring remains the ideal season for a trek up to the ‘roof of Europe’, with the added bonus of superb light and a unique descent.

p The final crest on the slope represents the last haul before reaching the summit.

MEMORABLE, YET OFF THE BEATEN PATH Text°°° VINCENT GILLIOZ Photos°°° PHILIPPE SCHILLER Ascending to the roof of Western Europe is for many people the challenge of a lifetime, the ultimate dream, an experience to tell the grandchildren about. Yet quite a few return from the peak after a summer visit feeling rather disappointed by the throngs encountered on the popular runs.

The reality of Mont Blanc in the summer is certainly rather underwhelming, with hundreds of tourists and climbers crowding the mountain top, detracting from much of the charm of the climb. There is little feeling of adventure, and the summit plateau looks almost like an amusement park, despite the long and strenuous effort required to get there. The era of HoraceBénédict de Saussure now seems long gone, the mystique has largely disappeared, and any remaining pleasure is mitigated.

,

And yet, Mont Blanc represents a genuinely superb climb which everyone should try to make at least once. It’s simply a question of choosing the right time of year for your visit, outside the busiest months. April and May (or even earlier, depending on snow conditions) are ideal, when visitor numbers are often in single figures, especially on week days.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT ROUTE As the only mountain to offer four standard routes of little technical difficulty, on its north-west and north-east ridges, Mont Blanc has two principal ski-touring paths, the Trois Mont-Blanc and the Grands Mulets. The latter ascent remains controversial however, and the Chamonix guides do not recommend it. It runs from Plan l’Aiguille (2300m), the mid-

point station of Aiguille du Midi, and involves a perilous crossing under the Glacier Rond, where there are frequent serac (unstable towers of ice) and rock falls. It is therefore advisable to hurry on to the Jonction glacier, which is itself exceptionally fissured. The Grands Mulets refuge (3051m) is then within easy reach. Those who have chosen this route will leave their cabin at around one o’clock in the morning to make their way under the north ridge of the Dôme and up to the Petit Plateau. Here too, there is a high risk of serac fall and speed of movement is one way of reducing exposure. The skiers will then reach the Grand Plateau, the Col du Dôme and, finally, the route along the Bosses ridge. It is also possible to travel via the north ridge of the Dôme to avoid potential exposure to serac fall, but the ascent takes a little longer.

THE REFUGE DES COSMIQUES Those who prefer to play it safe will certainly opt for the Trois Mont Blanc route, which is longer but less undulating. This path is also more scenic and has greater diversity. The descent, which is via the Grands Mulets in any case, therefore offers the possibility of combining both routes. The Refuge des Cosmiques, located at 3613m, just below the Aiguille du Midi, can be reached from the Aiguille du Midi in less than an hour.

It is therefore possible to take the last cable car to Chamonix and arrive in time for souper. The comfort of the surroundings represents a considerable plus, even if the nights are always too short on this kind of outing. Departures, indeed, must take place very early, and most people will be en route by around

THIRTY DEGREES | 061

1.30 am. Tacul shoulder and Col Maudit are generally ascended by night. The steep, exposed climb offers an impressive view of the lights of Chamonix, which can be seen shining almost directly under your feet. These slopes are far from harmless, and must be treated with caution. Wind slabs are relatively common. By this stage, skis have been packed away and the ascent is of course being made with crampons, the inclines often exceeding 40掳. As day begins to break, arrival at the Col de la Brenva provides a little respite, and above all an exceptional light which is not seen in summer. The climb continues through the dawn up the Mur de la C么te before the final long ascent to the summit.

DESCENT BY THE NORTH FACE As well as the thrill of being almost entirely alone, those who make it to the top of the roof of Europe in spring can take advantage of a descent which is, in theory, less difficult than on foot. With a little luck, it is even possible to enjoy excellent skiing conditions, although this remains very unpredictable and the high mountain is not known for extensive runs in

062 | THIRTY DEGREES

ii Col de la Brenva offers a last respite before the final assault. g Col du Maudit panorama, with steep slopes behind. i Roped parties coming from Grands Mulets reach the summit via the Bosses ridge. powdery virgin snow. Hardened, wind-blown snow is most often found, and the journey is only recommended for good skiers. The descent, made for the first time in 1930 by Swiss guide Elias Julen, passes directly along the north face, the side most visible when travelling to Chamonix from the Arve Valley. Skiers then pass under the ridge of the D么me and the Grands Mulets refuge. The landscape, with its seracs and crevasses, is sure to enchant, and offers a truly blissful experience to the happy few who cross by this face. For while the summit of Mont Blanc is visited by some 3000 people every year, only ten percent of them make the ascent on skis. A great reason to set yourself a new goal for next spring.

erdmannpeisker / Robert Bรถsch

Acceleration test.

Traversing. Setting the pace. Two hundred athletic skiers push themselves to the limit at the acceleration test on the Julier Pass. Their findings: fast, lightweight, compact and safe Pure Ascent equipment helps you to take high-altitude tours in stride. Follow the red track of the Mammut speed mountaineers: www.mammut.ch

34)*56)&# 7)58*$697&5:;&%)9$6<9+;'90;5=

THE HUT ALPINE ARCHITECTURE Text°°° SERGE GRETER

The new Monte Rosa Hut, owned by the Swiss Alpine Club, perches above Zermatt.

It is unlike other refuges, both from an aesthetic perspective and in terms of its energy use, as it is almost self-sufficient. Come with us on a guided tour.

ETH Zürich/Tonatiuh Ambrosetti

WHICH HAS TRANSFORMED

A hut in name only! The Swiss Alpine Club’s new Monte Rosa Hut, overlooking Zermatt, bears little resemblance to other refuges intended for visitors to the mountains. As one of Switzerland’s most complex wooden constructions, it may even be referred to as a turning point in Alpine architecture. Its shape, like a rock crystal reaching for the sky, sets the tone from the outset.

Its silver facade, covered in an aluminium shell, contains photovoltaic panels on its southern side, providing it with its own electricity. The building sits at an altitude of 2883 meters, and has the almost crystalline purity of many such buildings constructed around the concept of sustainable development. This “hut from the future”, which opened in March last year, generates over 90% of its own energy needs! Water (in particular that required for the building’s four showers) is heated using solar collectors, as is the air introduced by the ventilation system, which ensures a stable indoor temperature. Meltwater, available for a few months of the year, is collected and stored for future use. A bacteria-based micro-filtration facility also treats waste water, which can then be re-used to flush toilets and for washing. Finally, a computer system, developed and administered by Zurich ETH, provides optimal management of all energy parameters in accordance with visitor numbers. The new Monte Rosa Hut has a maximum capacity of 120 prized places during the summer season (until September). Inside, an abundance of light wood provides straight, clean lines. Outside, the mountainous surroundings, with a view of the Matterhorn, provide a stunning context for this little architectural gem. It may be a hut, but only in name…

ETH Zürich/Tonatiuh Ambrosetti

,

064 | THIRTY DEGREES

#*+*$,$-./012.3415+(56$,$76*31/$829.56

A book, published by gta Verlag, tells the story of the genesis, design and construction of the new Monte Rosa hut. It combines discussions, thematic contributions, photos and plans, and can be ordered for 65 Swiss francs from www.neuemonterosahuette.ch/publikation01.php.

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34)*56)&# 7)58*$697&5:;&%)9$6<9+;'90;5=

THE HUT ALPINE ARCHITECTURE Text°°° SERGE GRETER

The new Monte Rosa Hut, owned by the Swiss Alpine Club, perches above Zermatt.

It is unlike other refuges, both from an aesthetic perspective and in terms of its energy use, as it is almost self-sufficient. Come with us on a guided tour.

ETH Zürich/Tonatiuh Ambrosetti

WHICH HAS TRANSFORMED

A hut in name only! The Swiss Alpine Club’s new Monte Rosa Hut, overlooking Zermatt, bears little resemblance to other refuges intended for visitors to the mountains. As one of Switzerland’s most complex wooden constructions, it may even be referred to as a turning point in Alpine architecture. Its shape, like a rock crystal reaching for the sky, sets the tone from the outset.

Its silver facade, covered in an aluminium shell, contains photovoltaic panels on its southern side, providing it with its own electricity. The building sits at an altitude of 2883 meters, and has the almost crystalline purity of many such buildings constructed around the concept of sustainable development. This “hut from the future”, which opened in March last year, generates over 90% of its own energy needs! Water (in particular that required for the building’s four showers) is heated using solar collectors, as is the air introduced by the ventilation system, which ensures a stable indoor temperature. Meltwater, available for a few months of the year, is collected and stored for future use. A bacteria-based micro-filtration facility also treats waste water, which can then be re-used to flush toilets and for washing. Finally, a computer system, developed and administered by Zurich ETH, provides optimal management of all energy parameters in accordance with visitor numbers. The new Monte Rosa Hut has a maximum capacity of 120 prized places during the summer season (until September). Inside, an abundance of light wood provides straight, clean lines. Outside, the mountainous surroundings, with a view of the Matterhorn, provide a stunning context for this little architectural gem. It may be a hut, but only in name…

ETH Zürich/Tonatiuh Ambrosetti

,

064 | THIRTY DEGREES

#*+*$,$-./012.3415+(56$,$76*31/$829.56

A book, published by gta Verlag, tells the story of the genesis, design and construction of the new Monte Rosa hut. It combines discussions, thematic contributions, photos and plans, and can be ordered for 65 Swiss francs from www.neuemonterosahuette.ch/publikation01.php.

+,-(.///0(12, !"#$%&'()

!!!"#$%&'(!$)#*"#*

At just 16, Maryline Bonvin is about to take part in her first freeride competition season. The young rider from Vétroz (VS) was discovered by Xavier Rosset. She opened the Nendaz Freeride in March and may well become the darling of the discipline this winter.

Maryline Bonvin started skiing at the age of 4 and took up snowboarding at 9 after she met the freerider Xavier Rosset. She hasn’t put her board down since then and has thrown her heart and soul into her passion, even though she says that her studies come first “up to la matu1, if I can”. She has not yet been allowed to express her talent in competitions, which are reserved for riders over 16. However she is already sponsored by Keetch and had the honour of opening the well-known Nendaz Freeride in March this year.

“I was introduced to freeride gradually”, she says. “At first I tried a bit of off piste, and got a taste for it and I carried on making progress on virgin slopes. It’s a real pleasure to go where no one has gone before. You feel alone in the world. I like that.” She says it dawned on her in 2008 on a run. “Xavier Rosset took me to do the backside, a corridor behind the Mont-Fort in Verbier. It was a revelation. It was then that I decided to take things further, to make a career of it.”

,

MARYLINE Maryline Bonvin and Xavier Rosset

BONVIN THE WONDER

CHILD OF Text°°° VINCENT GILLIOZ Photo°°° CHRISTIAN BUGNON

S P O RT

FREERIDE 066 | THIRTY DEGREES

THE 2011 SEASON WILL BE DECISIVE Winter 2011 will be decisive for Maryline who will begin her career with the four main events in her canton: the Free Session in Morgins, the Zinal Freeride, the Nendaz Freeride and of course, the Chandolin First Track. When she thinks about it, she admits that she still needs to psyche herself up so she can face the judges calmly. “When I opened in Nendaz, I was overwhelmed with emotion when I looked down at the slope from the top. I felt like I’d lost all my bearings. Luckily, Xavier was there to reassure me. I came back to my senses and I did my run. It was fine, even though I fell just after the start.” Her lack of experience doesn’t stop her aiming high. She has set her sights on a podium this season.

For the youngest sponsored snowboarder in Switzerland, Maryline Bonvin’s summertime training is hiking. “I love the mountains. It’s the sort of preparation that suits me. I might do some fitness training but I’ve never tried it yet.

I’ll see if I like it”. You get the idea that she prefers the outdoors to an indoor gym. She also mentions her interest in nivology (the study of snow to forecast avalanches), which is essential to practise freeride in safety. “All young people who ski off piste should take an interest in it because it’s really very important.”

What else does the future have in store? “A trip to Alaska for my 18th birthday, with a film and photo shoot to boot.” She won’t say any more. She has a long way to go before then and for now she’s concentrating on preparing her entry into the ring, on 20 and 21 February in Morgins.

1 Equivalent of the British ‘A’ levels or the French ‘baccalauréat’

At just 16, Maryline Bonvin is about to take part in her first freeride competition season. The young rider from Vétroz (VS) was discovered by Xavier Rosset. She opened the Nendaz Freeride in March and may well become the darling of the discipline this winter.

Maryline Bonvin started skiing at the age of 4 and took up snowboarding at 9 after she met the freerider Xavier Rosset. She hasn’t put her board down since then and has thrown her heart and soul into her passion, even though she says that her studies come first “up to la matu1, if I can”. She has not yet been allowed to express her talent in competitions, which are reserved for riders over 16. However she is already sponsored by Keetch and had the honour of opening the well-known Nendaz Freeride in March this year.

“I was introduced to freeride gradually”, she says. “At first I tried a bit of off piste, and got a taste for it and I carried on making progress on virgin slopes. It’s a real pleasure to go where no one has gone before. You feel alone in the world. I like that.” She says it dawned on her in 2008 on a run. “Xavier Rosset took me to do the backside, a corridor behind the Mont-Fort in Verbier. It was a revelation. It was then that I decided to take things further, to make a career of it.”

,

MARYLINE Maryline Bonvin and Xavier Rosset

BONVIN THE WONDER

CHILD OF Text°°° VINCENT GILLIOZ Photo°°° CHRISTIAN BUGNON

S P O RT

FREERIDE 066 | THIRTY DEGREES

THE 2011 SEASON WILL BE DECISIVE Winter 2011 will be decisive for Maryline who will begin her career with the four main events in her canton: the Free Session in Morgins, the Zinal Freeride, the Nendaz Freeride and of course, the Chandolin First Track. When she thinks about it, she admits that she still needs to psyche herself up so she can face the judges calmly. “When I opened in Nendaz, I was overwhelmed with emotion when I looked down at the slope from the top. I felt like I’d lost all my bearings. Luckily, Xavier was there to reassure me. I came back to my senses and I did my run. It was fine, even though I fell just after the start.” Her lack of experience doesn’t stop her aiming high. She has set her sights on a podium this season.

For the youngest sponsored snowboarder in Switzerland, Maryline Bonvin’s summertime training is hiking. “I love the mountains. It’s the sort of preparation that suits me. I might do some fitness training but I’ve never tried it yet.

I’ll see if I like it”. You get the idea that she prefers the outdoors to an indoor gym. She also mentions her interest in nivology (the study of snow to forecast avalanches), which is essential to practise freeride in safety. “All young people who ski off piste should take an interest in it because it’s really very important.”

What else does the future have in store? “A trip to Alaska for my 18th birthday, with a film and photo shoot to boot.” She won’t say any more. She has a long way to go before then and for now she’s concentrating on preparing her entry into the ring, on 20 and 21 February in Morgins.

1 Equivalent of the British ‘A’ levels or the French ‘baccalauréat’

Text°°° CLAUDE HERVÉ-BAZIN Photos°°° KEYSTONE

SLEEPLESS IN

MONTREAL Autumn in Montreal means Indian summers, maple leaves turning red, and flocks of migrating geese soaring over the Saint Lawrence River. And if that’s not enough for you, beyond the clichés, MTL (as it’s known to its friends) is a classy, cultural metropolis, home to an evolving society which reflects Canada’s cosmopolitan make-up.

Montreal certainly looks and sounds like an American city : neatly arranged sky scrapers, wide, perfectly straight streets, police and fire sirens filling the air.

At Place Ville-Marie, the swarming suits and mad manoeuvres of the cycle couriers give the city a real buzz. For lunch, many choose to go underground. Linked to the metro, 28 km of corridors make up a parallel city (known as RÉSO) with an abundance of shops, restaurants, banks, hotels and cinemas.

,

From the bottom of Peel Street, 250 steps lead up to Mount Royal Belvedere, offering great views over Montreal. Great for jogging off all those calories from your poutine*. Up there you can leave the noise behind and enjoy the grass, the trees blazing with colour, the walkers, birds, squirrels and raccoons. On weekends, limousines bring young married couples for their wedding photographs. On Sundays, down by Park Avenue, djembe drums fill the air at outdoor performances with lots of clapping hands and swinging hips.

Montrealers know how to live well and take their time. Their favourite pastimes include a long cycle ride by Lachine Canal;

068 | THIRTY DEGREES

a stroll along “the Main” (Saint Lawrence Boulevard), from Chinatown to Little Italy, passing through the vestiges of the red-light district, now taken over again by theatres; browsing at Jean Talon market; and 24-hour bagels at Fairmount (no. 74 is the best). Montrealers like to have a good time, too, without going crazy. And that even includes the Curate of Saint Charles, who opens up the basement of his church for Saturday night wrestling, donating the proceeds to good causes, of course.

Knock back a good broue (beer), at a 5-à-7 bar: on the terraces of Saint Denis Street, such as Saint-Sulpice, Bily Kun for Czech pilsner and jazz, or Dieu du ciel, where your prayers will be answered with a coffee stout or peppered ale. The SainteElisabeth is a historic monument in its own right: a speakeasy (clandestine bar) during the Prohibition period, when Montreal attracted Americans with a thirst for whisky, it was once a chic brothel, then a gay bar. Continue your evening by descending the dark steps to Velvet (Thu-Sat), another speakeasy, which is laid out in catacombs. Its atmosphere is somewhere between trendy and underground, but totally hip in any case,

with its potent cocktails and meticulously stylish customers looking like Miss or Mr Universe.

By day, Old Montreal has plenty to satisfy sightseers, with its wealth of venerable stone monuments dating back to the origins of the French colony. Four centuries of history can be viewed from the leather seat of an open carriage, before heading off to poke around the galleries and designer stores. The city fully deserves its title as cultural capital. It has a number of major museums: fine art, contemporary art, history. Or pay a visit to the Biodome, which replicates the ecosystems of the Amazon basin and the Canadian forest, complete with beavers.

And don’t forget the SAT (Société des Arts Technologiques), reopening this autumn, a futuristic space dedicated to digital creation in all its forms. Attractions include the new Sensorium dome, with a 360° screen guaranteed to turn heads. The SAT also holds techno and minimalist parties all through the night.

i Berri-University Station g View of the Old Port and the town centre s Coffee with frothy milk, relaxing bar atmosphere

Five piastres (dollars), a BIXI (public bike) and the journey continues. Montreal is an island surrounded by other islands.

On Notre-Dame island you can bathe in clean water and relax on a sandy beach in the shade of potted palms. To get there, cross Concorde bridge over the Saint Lawrence river. At the foot of the bridge, why not try a spot of surfing. Yes, surfing.

There are no breaks here, nor any need to paddle out very far, just an endless static wave. Some head there before work, as early as five in the morning, others after souper (dinner), while the more adventurous get stuck in as soon as the thaw arrives, weaving their way between the drifting chunks of ice… *poutine: chips covered in melted cheese and gravy

THIRTY DEGREES | 069

Text°°° CLAUDE HERVÉ-BAZIN Photos°°° KEYSTONE

SLEEPLESS IN

MONTREAL Autumn in Montreal means Indian summers, maple leaves turning red, and flocks of migrating geese soaring over the Saint Lawrence River. And if that’s not enough for you, beyond the clichés, MTL (as it’s known to its friends) is a classy, cultural metropolis, home to an evolving society which reflects Canada’s cosmopolitan make-up.

Montreal certainly looks and sounds like an American city : neatly arranged sky scrapers, wide, perfectly straight streets, police and fire sirens filling the air.

At Place Ville-Marie, the swarming suits and mad manoeuvres of the cycle couriers give the city a real buzz. For lunch, many choose to go underground. Linked to the metro, 28 km of corridors make up a parallel city (known as RÉSO) with an abundance of shops, restaurants, banks, hotels and cinemas.

,

From the bottom of Peel Street, 250 steps lead up to Mount Royal Belvedere, offering great views over Montreal. Great for jogging off all those calories from your poutine*. Up there you can leave the noise behind and enjoy the grass, the trees blazing with colour, the walkers, birds, squirrels and raccoons. On weekends, limousines bring young married couples for their wedding photographs. On Sundays, down by Park Avenue, djembe drums fill the air at outdoor performances with lots of clapping hands and swinging hips.

Montrealers know how to live well and take their time. Their favourite pastimes include a long cycle ride by Lachine Canal;

068 | THIRTY DEGREES

a stroll along “the Main” (Saint Lawrence Boulevard), from Chinatown to Little Italy, passing through the vestiges of the red-light district, now taken over again by theatres; browsing at Jean Talon market; and 24-hour bagels at Fairmount (no. 74 is the best). Montrealers like to have a good time, too, without going crazy. And that even includes the Curate of Saint Charles, who opens up the basement of his church for Saturday night wrestling, donating the proceeds to good causes, of course.

Knock back a good broue (beer), at a 5-à-7 bar: on the terraces of Saint Denis Street, such as Saint-Sulpice, Bily Kun for Czech pilsner and jazz, or Dieu du ciel, where your prayers will be answered with a coffee stout or peppered ale. The SainteElisabeth is a historic monument in its own right: a speakeasy (clandestine bar) during the Prohibition period, when Montreal attracted Americans with a thirst for whisky, it was once a chic brothel, then a gay bar. Continue your evening by descending the dark steps to Velvet (Thu-Sat), another speakeasy, which is laid out in catacombs. Its atmosphere is somewhere between trendy and underground, but totally hip in any case,

with its potent cocktails and meticulously stylish customers looking like Miss or Mr Universe.

By day, Old Montreal has plenty to satisfy sightseers, with its wealth of venerable stone monuments dating back to the origins of the French colony. Four centuries of history can be viewed from the leather seat of an open carriage, before heading off to poke around the galleries and designer stores. The city fully deserves its title as cultural capital. It has a number of major museums: fine art, contemporary art, history. Or pay a visit to the Biodome, which replicates the ecosystems of the Amazon basin and the Canadian forest, complete with beavers.

And don’t forget the SAT (Société des Arts Technologiques), reopening this autumn, a futuristic space dedicated to digital creation in all its forms. Attractions include the new Sensorium dome, with a 360° screen guaranteed to turn heads. The SAT also holds techno and minimalist parties all through the night.

i Berri-University Station g View of the Old Port and the town centre s Coffee with frothy milk, relaxing bar atmosphere

Five piastres (dollars), a BIXI (public bike) and the journey continues. Montreal is an island surrounded by other islands.

On Notre-Dame island you can bathe in clean water and relax on a sandy beach in the shade of potted palms. To get there, cross Concorde bridge over the Saint Lawrence river. At the foot of the bridge, why not try a spot of surfing. Yes, surfing.

There are no breaks here, nor any need to paddle out very far, just an endless static wave. Some head there before work, as early as five in the morning, others after souper (dinner), while the more adventurous get stuck in as soon as the thaw arrives, weaving their way between the drifting chunks of ice… *poutine: chips covered in melted cheese and gravy

THIRTY DEGREES | 069

f International Flora Festival, Montreal s Biosphere, on Sainte-HÊlène Island, Montreal

PRACTICAL INFO GETTING THERE Swiss and Air Canada offer daily direct flights from Geneva to Montreal until mid-November â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and another all year round via Zurich. www.swiss.com www.aircanada.com CLIMATE Autumn is still mild (12° to 20°C during the day), with plenty of sunshine and the added attraction of Indian summer colours. The best time to visit is the last week of September and first half of October.

somewhere between an apartment and a lounge, with a delightfully cosy atmosphere and African music. s 3TEREO RUE 3AINTE #ATHERINE %ST WWW STEREO NIGHTCLUB GOING OUT com) is the ideal place to end your night out on Montrealâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largs ,E 3AINT 3ULPICE RUE 3AINT $ENIS WWW LESAINTSULPICE CA est dance floor, known for its great sound system. Prepare to s "ILY +UN -ONT 2OYAL %ST WWW BILYKUN COM have your sleep cycle disrupted! s $IEU DU CIEL AVE ,AURIER /UEST WWW DIEUDUCIEL COM s !LSO NOT TO BE MISSED ON 3UNDAYS FROM LATE -AY TO /CTOs ,E 3AINTE %LISABETH RUE 3AINTE %LISABETH ber, are the Piknics Electroniks on Saint Helenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Island (Jean s 6ELVET 3PEAKEASY RUE 3AINT 'ABRIEL WWW VELVETSPEAKEASY CA Drapeau Park, www.piknicelectronik.com), where some of the s 3!4 3OCIĂ&#x192;TĂ&#x192; DES !RTS 4ECHNOLOGIQUES BD 3AINT ,AURENT worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest DJs take to the decks in the open air. www.sat.qc.ca s ,A "ANQUISE RUE 2ACHEL %ST POUTINERIE OPEN HOURS A DAY FESTIVALS a great place to chill after emerging from a sweltering night club. Autumn in Montreal means hockey, as the season begins and s !U 0IED DE COCHON AVE $ULUTH %ST WWW RESTAURANpassions run high. Go Canadiens! In the botanical gardens, taupieddecochon.ca), a chic version of the same fare (poutine) paper lamps and lanterns light up the Chinese garden (10 with foie gras!

September until late October). Next comes the Montreal s "UVETTE #HEZ 3IMONE AVE DU 0ARC PERFECT FOR A NEVER )NTERNATIONAL 0OP -USIC &ESTIVAL WWW POPMONending apĂŠro, an unpretentious spot to enjoy a glass of red wine treal.com), featuring more than a hundred groups and solo and a dish of organic chicken.

ARTISTS 4HEN IT S TIME FOR THE .EW #INEMA &ESTIVAL

s ,AĂ&#x160;KA BD 3AINT ,AURENT WWW LAIKAMONTREAL COM

www.nouveaucinema.ca), presenting the latest in innovabrunch by day, DJs by night, frequented by artists of all varieties tive, cutting-edge cinema. A few days later, the Halloween and fashion victims in all their finery. costume party will take over the streets of Old Montreal, while s $AOMĂ&#x192; AVE DU -ONT 2OYAL %ST WWW LESALONDAOME COM IS the botanical gardens will house the Great Pumpkin Ball.

LINKS www.bonjourquebec.com www.tourisme-montreal.org www.ville.montreal.qc.ca www.madeinmtl.com www.montrealinfo.com

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www.montrealplus.ca www.mtl12.com www.lavitrine.com www.montreal.bixi.com www.surfmtl.com

IRT / E. VIRIN

ISLAND

IRT / STUDIO LUMIÈRE

REUNION

i Formica Leo crater at the Piton de la Fournaise f Cirques and ramparts under UNESCO protection g A big lake

A PARADISE THAT WILL TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY

Text°°° CLAUDE HERVÉ-BAZIN

072 | THIRTY DEGREES

Nearly three sweaty hours later and the refuge is still not in sight. The muggy cloak of the Grand Maturum forest is long forgotten, replaced by the mists and cool breezes that dance around us as we climb towards the ramparts of the Piton des Neiges (Snowy Peak). Here, the highest point of the island (3071m), rubs shoulders with the clouds but does not live up to its name as snow is rare, very rare.

However, the climb is one of the island’s most difficult. The twists and turns, the cliffs and the 1200 metres of hilly terrain are particularly tiring.

Yet we set off again at 4am the next day. We finish the climb with headlamps on, numb from cold and sleepiness, in time to watch the sun rise. Magnificent. Below, the cirque de Cilaos is bathed in shade. The rockiest of Reunion’s three cauldrons,

,

IRT / E. VIRIN

Rising out of the Indian Ocean near Mauritius, Reunion Island has the most spectacular landscapes imaginable. In the middle, a combination of terrestrial movements and erosion have formed three vast cirques, which are a challenge to reach. On the nearby slopes, the Piton de la Fournaise (Furnace Peak) bubbles on a regular basis.

which form a cloverleaf shape in the middle of the island, can also be reached by a road that was blasted out by dynamite. According to popular opinion, there are over 400 bends between the coast and the peak – but who’s counting? A westward glance from the lookout at Grand Bénare (2898 m) reveals another cirque, Mafate. It is the most difficult to reach and can only be visited on foot. Long ago, the “brown” slaves pursued by the “little whites” sought refuge there. Their descendants are still there, hanging on to their plots of giraumon (marrow) and geraniums (distilled as essence) in hamlets of just a few houses. The sure-footed children gently mock the Zoreilles (nickname for the metropolitan French) they meet on the GR1 hiking trail, with their Gore-Tex and hiking boots...

The most popular hiking route links the three cirques from

THIRTY DEGREES | 073

IRT / E. VIRIN

ISLAND

IRT / STUDIO LUMIÈRE

REUNION

i Formica Leo crater at the Piton de la Fournaise f Cirques and ramparts under UNESCO protection g A big lake

A PARADISE THAT WILL TAKE YOUR BREATH AWAY

Text°°° CLAUDE HERVÉ-BAZIN

072 | THIRTY DEGREES

Nearly three sweaty hours later and the refuge is still not in sight. The muggy cloak of the Grand Maturum forest is long forgotten, replaced by the mists and cool breezes that dance around us as we climb towards the ramparts of the Piton des Neiges (Snowy Peak). Here, the highest point of the island (3071m), rubs shoulders with the clouds but does not live up to its name as snow is rare, very rare.

However, the climb is one of the island’s most difficult. The twists and turns, the cliffs and the 1200 metres of hilly terrain are particularly tiring.

Yet we set off again at 4am the next day. We finish the climb with headlamps on, numb from cold and sleepiness, in time to watch the sun rise. Magnificent. Below, the cirque de Cilaos is bathed in shade. The rockiest of Reunion’s three cauldrons,

,

IRT / E. VIRIN

Rising out of the Indian Ocean near Mauritius, Reunion Island has the most spectacular landscapes imaginable. In the middle, a combination of terrestrial movements and erosion have formed three vast cirques, which are a challenge to reach. On the nearby slopes, the Piton de la Fournaise (Furnace Peak) bubbles on a regular basis.

which form a cloverleaf shape in the middle of the island, can also be reached by a road that was blasted out by dynamite. According to popular opinion, there are over 400 bends between the coast and the peak – but who’s counting? A westward glance from the lookout at Grand Bénare (2898 m) reveals another cirque, Mafate. It is the most difficult to reach and can only be visited on foot. Long ago, the “brown” slaves pursued by the “little whites” sought refuge there. Their descendants are still there, hanging on to their plots of giraumon (marrow) and geraniums (distilled as essence) in hamlets of just a few houses. The sure-footed children gently mock the Zoreilles (nickname for the metropolitan French) they meet on the GR1 hiking trail, with their Gore-Tex and hiking boots...

The most popular hiking route links the three cirques from

THIRTY DEGREES | 073

IRT / Serge Gélabert

pass to pass. It takes between 3 and 6 days to cover the 53 kilometres, including 6600 metres of hilly terrain. Despite this, the winner of the CiMaSa Run, which follows pretty much the same route, often completes it in 6.5 hours!

Aerial view of lagoon A WEALTH OF NATURAL DIVERSITY The Parc National de la Réunion was classed as a UNESCO world heritage nature site on 1 August 2010, for its peaks, cirques and ramparts. The committee remarked upon the extraordinary variety of volcanic scenery and the wealth of biotopes, from the tropical rain forest to the Enclos caldera and the Piton de la Fournaise. Reunion Island is also one of the world’s hot spots in terms of biodiversity, as 40% of its species are endemic.

IRT / Serge Gélabert

The Trou de Fer (Iron hole), with waterfalls only accessible on foot or by air.

Those who have at least 12 days can do the GR R2, which crosses the island from north to south. It covers everything the island has to offer in the way of twists and turns, ochre coloured or burnt earth, peaks and clouds, wind and fanjans (tree ferns), mud, waterfalls and rain forests. After Cilaos, there is a marvellous day when in the space of a few hours, the Irish mists give way to herds of cattle and green pastures, and then to lunar scoria on the Plaine des Sables (Plain of Sands). The finish line brings the Piton de la Fournaise, which erupts once a year on average. Volcanologists confirm that it is one of the world’s most active volcanoes.

For those of you who never get tired, this is just the beginning.

The next stage is all about mountain biking, with long rides between summits and beaches, crazy competitions such as the Saint-Paul Megavalanche – which is a tad treacherous. Or you could just do a spot of canyoning (70 areas with facilities). The maddest will have a go at the Trou de Fer (Iron Hole), a gaping abyss, home to three huge waterfalls. What an agenda! Neverending rappels of 200 and 300 metres, with a pendulum finish, bivouac at the bottom, having been thoroughly drenched - and exit the next day through the very narrow Bras de Caverne.

Those who prefer paragliding can sail over the ramparts with some nice turbulence. And if that’s not enough, there’s the Grand Raid. The 2010 edition (October) of this trail for madmen, known as the “crazy crossing”, lines up a trek of 163 km including 9600 metres of uphill climbing, to be completed in less than 66 hours. Twenty Swiss are registered to participate.

The time to beat? Oh, a little over 20 hours.

USEFUL INFORMATION how to get there Air France, Air Austral and Corsair fly direct to La Réunion from Europe (transit via Paris mandatory). the climate The dry season is from May to November - but even during that period, the windward Eastern coast gets quite a bit of rain. It can get cold in the cirques during the southern winter.

IRT / E. VIRIN

links www.reunion.fr reunion.runweb.com www.fournaise.info runrando.free.fr www.grandraid-reunion.com www.cilaosaventure.com www.canyonreunion.com www.loisirs-aventures-reunion.com www.avalanchecup.com www.spot-reunion.com

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L’île de La Réunion,

un pur paradis!

PHOTOS: STUDIO LUMIÈRE, IRT/E. VIRIN

Découvrez un environnement intact et surprenant à l’île de La Réunion.

Sport nautiques, randonnées ou baignades – ici les amoureux de pleine nature sauront apprécier…. Tout simplement paradisiaque !

www.ile-reunion.ch

RR

VIDEO GAMES ARE ON THE MOVE

Three years ago, Nintendo made the first move in the field of motion-controlled games, with the introduction of its Wii console. Sony and Microsoft are now getting in on the action too…

I LIKE TO MOVE IT !

The classic joystick has all but had its day, much to the delight of “casual gamers”, those who are reluctant to spend hours learning key combinations in order to carry out on-screen actions. It was Nintendo which led the way with its Wiimote, replicating the movements of players delighted to see the results of their gestures on the screen. Sony is now offering a similar system, based on the use of a camera, the EyeToy, and a wireless controller, the Playstation Move. This system’s possibilities are similar to those of Nintendo’s device, but with greater precision.

Microsoft, meanwhile, are attempting something a little more ambitious. The Redmond-based firm are offering a system called Kinect, comprising a sensor with an inbuilt camera and microphone which is connected to the Xbox 360. The system can recognise two players at the same time, scanning their bodies and interpreting the results on-screen. In order to interact with the game displayed on the monitor, players therefore mimic the actions they wish to see reproduced. The

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RR

Text°°° ÉRIC RIVERA

experience, which can be slightly disconcerting at first due to the innovative lack of contact with any kind of controller, has won a large following thanks to its intuitive means of operation. From all sides, we can expect a flood of new games and devices, involving refined playability very different from that of previously available games.

BREAKING INTO A SWEAT A technological advance brought about by an ever-growing video-games market which is keen to find new players, there is every possibility that this form of man-machine interaction will become omnipresent in the near future. Yet it remains to be seen just how keen people will be to break into a sweat in front of a screen in search of the highest score…

SPORT

COLUMBIA – RAVENOUSTM TRAIL RUNNING SHOE A star is born in the trail running sky: the RavenousTM from Columbia Sportswear Company. The ultralight trail shoe (around 340g) is designed for demanding terrain. It has an innovative rear foot capture system that grips the heel, providing outstanding stability and support, and a more accommodating fit. www.columbia.com

SALEWA APOGEE The Apogee is the ideal partner to take on a winter trek. If you’re going skiing, snowboarding, or on a trek with snow shoes, you’ll have all the space you need to pack away your gear. The ladies version has been perfectly modelled to match the body and specific needs for women: narrower straps with a position adapted to women’s shoulders. More details on www.salewa.com

By CHRISTIAN BUGNON

MAMMUT NIRVANA PRO : SKI TOURING/FREERIDE BACKPACK The Nirvana Pro from Mammut is the ideal backpack for fans of ski, snowboard or snowshoe touring and freeriders. The 35-litre version has enough room for avalanche safety equipment, provisions and more.

In other words, all you need for excursions of several days. See the whole range on www.mammut.ch

JULBO EXPRESSION SERIES This new range of goggles has been designed by riders, for riders. It offers three very different personalities with one driving force… the thrill of the ride. All models have Zebra spherical lenses that adjust to light intensity.

Category 2 – 4 protection. Exceptional quality anti-fog coating, no condensation. More details on www.julbo-eyewear.com

CASIO PROTREK PRG-240 STIMULATES YOUR TASTE FOR ADVENTURE The strong point of this model is the array of technical functions that will fill outdoor sports fans with enthusiasm. It’s simple to use with very precise technical data, sunrise and sunset times and a large clear screen. All of which make it the Rolls Royce of sports watches. www.casio.ch

NORTHFACE – NSE TRACTION MULE Going out in the cold no longer means frozen feet thanks to NSE Traction Mules. Mountaineers wear them for their daily wander around the base camp and fans of the slopes don them to go and fetch in the firewood. Toes are warm and snug in the high quality feather down lining, even during the iciest winter nights. Available in a range of colours. www.northface.com

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fit f r life

10 years Holmes Place in Europe

FREE DAY PASS valid until 31st August 2010

The Holmes Place "one life. live it well." philosophy is based on a holistic approach to fitness and wellness. We focus on inspiring our members to move well, to eat well and to feel well. Focusing on these 3 essential parts of our lives is what makes Holmes Place unique and truly differentiates us from more traditional fitness clubs.

For 10 years we have been inspiring over 300,000 members to live well across Europe.

To help you take your first step to a healthy lifestyle we are delighted to offer all readers and their friend a visit to our club.

Your complimentary day pass will enable you to train in our gym or take part in one of the 70+ classes we offer each week or simply relax in our sauna, steamroom, and spa. Why not enjoy a healthy meal and drink on our stunning sun terrace.

Enjoy the world of Holmes Place by calling us on T:+41.22.818 47 70 or contact us at www.holmesplace.ch

Holmes Place Health Club Geneva 4th floor Globus | Rue du Rh么ne 50 | 1204 Geneva | T:+41.22.818 47 70 www.holmesplace.ch

one life. live it well.

By CHRISTIAN BUGNON

DESIGN

GIVENCHY PLAY FOR HER Two years after the success of the Play fragrance for men, fronted by Justin Timberlake, Givenchy has launched its feminine counterpart, which comes in two versions: Eau de Parfum classique has notes of white peach and musk while Eau de Parfum Intense adds patchouli and tonka bean. Find it in your favourite perfume store or on www.givenchy.com

CANON POWERSHOT S95: POCKET-SIZED POWER FOR SERIOUS PHOTOGRAPHERS This high-tech digital compact is for photographers looking for a pocket-sized camera capable of performing well in low light.

Intuitive manual control for those who prefer. This new model has a professional style control ring, HD video recording, HS system and a hybrid image stabiliser. www.canon.ch

ALPINA GENEVA CLUB: A HIGHLY ELEGANT SPORTS DESIGN New on the market, the elegant, sporty Alpina Club watch has AL-525 automatic movement technology that is exact to the second. The elegant rounded case comes in stainless steel, black PVD steel or pink gold, and the photo luminescent hands enable you to see the time in all circumstances. The sexy, dynamic design of the new Alpina Club will suit the most daring, adventurous connoisseurs. www.alpina-watches.com

DAKINE: A WHOLE RANGE MADE FROM 100% RECYCLED PET BOTTLES With the new Re-Gen Collection, Dakine confirms its commitment to protecting the environment and proves that an “outdoor” lifestyle goes hand in hand with reducing ones impact on nature. All the products in the new collection are guaranteed PVC free, entirely made from recycled PET bottles, from the fabric and stuffing to the buckles. Ideal for anyone who wants to go green without comprising quality, functionality or style. www.dakine.ch

UNIQUE IPAD SLEEVE BY FREITAG Freitag presents the alter ego to the ipad, the most modern digital gadget around : a recycled, unique, one-of-akind sleeve. It has a pull-tab for easy access to your ipad and the velvety lining wipes the screen clean. Currently available from www.freitag.ch and in the Freitag concept stores in Davos and Zurich.

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IMPRESSUM 30 DEGREES ISSUE 32, AUTUMN 2010

HAPPENING NEAR YOU

Photo cover : © Sterling Lorence / Red Bull Illume Editor christian.bugnon@cbcommunication.com Edition & administration CB Communication sàrl Rue du Tunnel 11 – 1005 Lausanne - Suisse e-mail : info@cbcommunication.com site : www.cbcommunication.com Tél : +41 21/ 312 41 41, Fax : +41 21/ 312 41 41

There is no shortage of creativity, originality, unique atmosphere and tasteful design around these parts. 30° opens its urban address book and shares some of its favourite spots.

Advertising for French-speaking Switzerland christian.bugnon@cbcommunication.com

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Text°°° SERGE GRETER

Advertising for German-speaking Switzerland Blueorange Media GmbH Karin Witschi kw@blueorange-media.ch Sonja Kupper sk@blueorange-media.ch

Little Buddha Geneva The look will be minimalist and refined, the atmosphere suave and relaxed. The concept behind Little Buddha Geneva, soon to become the latest member of the chain, has been tried and tested with success in many cities around the world. Located on Place Neuve, in the banking district, the Genevan establishment is due to open in October. Occupying two floors, it will provide two distinct spaces… On the ground floor there will be a restaurant with Asian-inspired décor, featuring an impressive statue of Buddha, with room for 100 guests, offering Pacific Rim cuisine, a subtle blend of flavours and cultures, a creative mix of exotic and traditional fare. Those who adore raw fish will also find a sushi bar here! In the basement, you will be able to sink into the large sofas in the Lounge Bar, to the sounds of live DJs every night.

A thoroughly contemporary venue.

Advertising for English-speaking astrid.gester@cbcommunication.com Tél: +41 79 386 87 88 Editorial assistant info@cbcommunication.com Writers (in order of appearance) Sabrina Belloni, Frédéric Rein, Serge Greter, Rachel Barbezat, Vincent Gillioz, Sylvain Bazin, Alban Aubert, Claude Hervé-Bazin, Eric Rivera Photographers (in order of appearance) Franco Banfi, Red Bull Illume, Keystone, Solar Impulse, Planetsolar 2010, Universal, Ascot Elit Entertainement, Frenetic Film, Mark Holthusen, Spencer Tunick, Tero Repo, Stuart Knowles, Tristan Shu, Stuart Knowles, Toly Strebelev, Sylvain Bazin, TVSB, François Perraudin, Patrice schreyer, freerideworldtour.com/ T.Repo,Christian Bugnon, Philippe Schiller, Tonatiuh Ambrosetti, IRT / STUDIO LUMIÈRE, IRT / E. VIRIN, IRT / Serge Gélabert

Little Buddha Geneva, 10, rue Jean-François Bartholoni, 1204 Geneva. www.littlebuddhageneva.com Open 7 days a week, from 11.00 am to 1.00 am (2.00 am Fridays and Saturdays).

RR

Midi 20, Rue du Midi 20, 1003 Lausanne, 021/312.71.41, www.midi20.ch Open Tuesday to Saturday, from 11.45 am to 10.00 pm.

Check In bar lounge A visit to the Check In Bar Lounge in Neuchâtel is a welcome change of scene. This former cinema theatre is like the set of a live film, with a script based around a wonderful journey.

It all begins as soon as you enter and find yourself in what looks like an airport terminal. The main room is reminiscent of the hanging gardens of a grand colonial hotel. A pagoda on stilts hangs above the water cascading from a waterfall, with wooden pontoons leading off to other tables. This taste for the exotic is reflected in the drinks (tropical cocktails) and dishes on offer. Crayfish and lobsters, the house speciality, are selected from a tank. Have you checked in yet? Because we are about to take off…

Check In Bar Lounge, Neuchâtel International Airport, 1, place Numa-Droz, 2000 Neuchâtel, 032/724.11.27. Open Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday from 5.00 pm to 1.00 am; Friday and Saturday from 5.00 pm to 2.00 am.

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German translation : Sabine Dröschel English translation : Simon Till Photo-offset printing : Images 3 SA Printing : Swissprinters Lausanne SA Distribution : It’s Time To Bienne The magazine 30° is provided free of charge to subscribers of Skippers and Mountain Report magazines RR

Midi 20 Bacchus, the Roman god of wine, would certainly have appreciated this wine bar in Lausanne city centre. Its refined décor is comprised of high tables and blackboards, natural wood flooring and large wine racks, featuring vintages from every corner of the world, Swiss vineyards included. Here novices, wine-lovers and connoisseurs can enjoy a glass or two without the distraction of deafening music. The atmosphere is friendly, yet always conducive to tasting and appreciating the different notes of the wines on offer, which can be combined with a bite to eat. Last December, Midi 20 was even voted best wine bar in Lausanne by the TV programme “ABE”. Cheers!

Art and layout editors Mélanie & Nicolas Zentner, Mathieu Moret

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