special issue
ZERMATT
TH E WOR LD ’ S FI RST M ASTER CH RONOMETER Proven at the industry’s highest level, the OMEGA Globemaster has been rigorously tested and officially certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS). Along with exquisite design, it combines superior precision with anti-magnetic resistance of 15,000 gauss, proudly setting a new standard in watchmaking. For OMEGA, this is just the beginning. www.omegawatches.com / globemaster
AVAILABLE AT:
Zermatt – Bahnhofstrasse 5
PEAK PARTNER OF THE 150 TH ANNIVERSARY OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN
T I S S OT B O U T I Q U E , BA H N H O FPL AT Z 2 , 39 2 0 Z ER M AT T
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EDITOrial L et’s go back in time, to 1865, a year when Queen Victoria was on the British throne, Monet had just completed Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe, the American Civil War had finally come to an end and the search for the source of the Nile was still going on. Meanwhile, in Zermatt seven men set off to scale the pyramid of rock that towers defiantly over the town. Only three of them would return alive, the English climber Edward Whymper and his guides, Mr Taugwalder and son. The tragic death of their companions played its part in making Whymper’s maiden ascent of the Matterhorn a legendary feat. This year saw Zermatt enthusiastically celebrate the 150 th anniversary of that climb. Lights lit up the Hörnli ridge, the route Whymper took to the summit, while a series of plays telling the tale of the expedition, complete with period costumes, were staged during the summer. A whole host of concerts and other events marked the occasion, in a warm and friendly atmosphere. The Hörnli Hut also reopened, refurbished entirely with the future in mind. Zermatt has undergone profound changes over the last 150 years. Once a tiny mountain hamlet, it is
now a legendary mountaineering destination. Its stunning backdrop of 38 peaks standing more than 4,000m high now echoes to the sound of English, Russian, Hindi, Japanese and a host of other languages. When getting off the train from Täsch, visitors are treated to the sight of carriages drawn by proud horses with snow-dappled coats and a village that has retained its charm and character. Add falling snowflakes, a couple of snowdrifts and the picture-postcard scene is complete. With this as a setting, 30° is proud to play its part in projecting Zermatt’s enticing appeal to all four corners of the planet. As well as revealing some of its essential attractions, such as the Gornergrat’s cogwheel train, these pages also cast a light on some of the larger-than-life characters who help make Zermatt what it is today, people such as Kurt Lauber, the warden of the Hörnlihütte; the young guide/prodigy Andreas Steindl; the unique restaurateur Urs Biner – aka singer Dan Daniell – and his friend, the former Abba star Frida. For them and for us, Zermatt is and will always be the real heart of the Alps. Happy Christmas and have a good winter!
C h r i s t i a n b u g n o n _ Publisher & Editor-in-chief www.30degrees.tv
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contents 44 News
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Luxury and indulgence at penthouse Nabucco
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PDG The greatest of all ski mountaineering races leaves from Zermatt
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Straddling work and wellbeing
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LEANDER WENGER in relentless pursuit of the perfect light
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URS BINER alias Dan Daniell. Meet the singing restaurateur
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Salvatore Elefante Bringing Mediterranean cuisine to the heart of the Alps
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BACKCOUNTRY SKIING to the magnificent Monte Rosa hut
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THE gornergrat Bahn The mountain train with a story to tell
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Kilian Jornet Ambassador for the globe-trotter’s watch
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Air Zermatt Scenically stunning
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HÖRNLIHÜTTE Waiting in the wings of the Matterhorn
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KURT LAUBER 20 years of watching over the Matterhorn
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Andreas Steindl Meditating in the mountains
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GREAT SKIING Probably the best ski resort in the world
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SKI REVIEW Our pick of this season’s best skis
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SKI BOOTS REVIEW Boots to match your feet and skis
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Valais rye bread A healthy local staple
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News
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TRENDS: SPORT
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TRENDS: watches
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ZERMATT SHOPS
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TRENDS: DESIGN
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DELUXE SPECIAL WINTER ISSUE 2015-2016: ZERMATT | IMPRESSUM 30° Degrees (since 2002)
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Editing, administration and adversiting : CB Communication sàrl | Rue du Simplon 20 – Case Postale 386 | 1001 Lausanne - Suisse | info@cbcommunication.com | www.cbcommunication.com | Tél: +41 21 312 41 41, Fax : +41 21 312 41 11 | Editor-inchief : christian.bugnon@cbcommunication.com | Assistant : melissa.hertzeisen@cbcommunication.com | Writers (in order of appearance) : Serge Greter, Laurent Grabet, Frédéric Rein, César Deffeyes, Christian Bugnon, Guy Michel | Photographers (in order of appearance) : Fredrik Schenholm, joe@rockzermatt.com, Christian Pfammatter, Hotel Zermatterhof, Michael Portmann, matterhorn.ultraks.com / D. Lafond, Kurt Müller, Co-o-peration, Yves Garneau, François Perraudin, Zermatterhof, Leander Wenger, Marc Kronit, Mont Cervin Palace, Zermatt, Tonatiuh Ambrosetti, François Perraudin, Gornergrat Bahn, Air Zermatt, Michel Bonvin, Laurent Grabet, Michael Portmann/Adidas Outdoor, Valais/Wallis Promotion /Pascal Gertschen, Pascal Gertschen, Christian Pfammatter, Rob Lewis, Backstage Hotel, Goldbergh Luxury Sportswear, Lykke Stjernswärd | Graphic design : florian.blanchard@cbcommunication.com | (DA) christian.bugnon@cbcommunication.com | German translation : Sabine Dröschel | English translation : Simon Till, Paul Subrenat | Photo-offset printing : Images 3 | Printing : PCL Presses Centrales SA | Publicity : info@cbcommunication.com | Copyright : © 2015-2016 30° degrees magazine all rights reserved. All text and images published are protected by copyright. Unauthorized duplication/copying of all or any part of this magazine is strictly prohibited without the express prior permission of the rightful owners. 30° magazine, a media partner of the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) | Magazine printed in Switzerland on FSC-certified paper. This issue is also available free of charge on the iPad and on www.30degrees.tv | Cover : photo Keystone | Next issue: June 2016
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SUUNTO KAILASH COPPER ADVENTURE STARTS HERE Every one of us is unique, every one born different. Yet some of us have something in common; the inexcplicable urge to explore, to know what’s around the next corner. If curiosity drives you forward and you thrive on the unknown, you might belong to the few who possess the adventure gene, 7R. Do you belong?
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www.suunto.com
Fredrik Schenholm
NEWS
A passion for freeride Zermatt is something of an El Dorado for the finest skiers and snowboarders. It offers 38 km of yellow runs (if they can be called runs!) with deep carpets of ungroomed snow, accessible by ski lift and marked out for avalanche prevention. Areas such as the Rothorn, Schwarzsee and Triftji-Stockhorn present a succession of steep corridors and ledges reserved for the most daring. From the Stockhorn, at an altitude of 3405 m, riders can look forward to a run with an amazing 1200-metre vertical drop. Those who are bored of black slopes but won’t dare tackle anything yellow can be supervised by the high mountain guides of Alpin Center Zermatt, who know every little bump on these slopes!
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www.alpincenter-zermatt.ch
Will you Saycheese? Everyone who dines here leaves with a smile on their face. Not because they’re having their photo taken (although they may well wish to capture the moment) but due to the quality of the cheeses, exclusively from Valais, served in the new Saycheese! restaurant, discreetly located in the basement of the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof. On the menu, naturally, are local dried meats, raclette and fondue dishes, perfect with an outstanding Fendant wine. The Zermatterhof, with champagne and cepes mushrooms (or winter truffles) is already close to legendary. And as for the setting, the contemporary adds spice to the traditional, with an open kitchen, old wood, stone and elements of mountain decor, alongside a thoroughly contemporary fireplace. http://zermatterhof.ch/enjoy/restaurants-bars/saycheese/?lang=en
joe@rockzermatt.com
HIGH-ALTITUDE CUISINE AT THE CERVO Figuring among Zermatt’s 17 Gault&Millaurated restaurants, the Cervo Puro (which scores 14 points in the prestigious guide) is one of the resort’s most attractive eateries. Sporting a fresh look for the new season, halfway between Alpine conviviality and ethereal sophistication, it’s an alluring spot for sampling understated, carefully created seasonal cuisine that draws mostly on local produce from environmentally sustainable farms.
Hotel Zermatterhof
The Backstage luxury chalet, a 100% VIP experience Nestled close to the Backstage Hotel, the architect, designer and artist Heinz Julen has created an exceptional eagle’s nest in contemporary style: the Backstage luxury chalet. This fivebedroom complex, composed of larch wood and glass, sits proudly above the village, allowing spectacular panoramic views over the surrounding mountains – including from the open space kitchen! Cosy evenings in, which you’ll never want to end, can be spent flitting between the fireplace, home movie theatre room and hydraulic whirlpool which rises up through an opening in the roof! Unforgettable. For a 100% VIP experience, chef Ivo Adam cooks for guests on the spot, and an entire team of staff look after daily management. www.backstagehotel.ch
Christian Pfammatter
www.cervo.ch/fr/restaurants/cervo-puro
SEE YOU AT THE MATTERHORN PLAZA Located just five minutes from the rail station, the imposing Matterhorn Plaza stretches out in front of the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof and St Maurice parish church. This coming winter you will be able to chill out at the ice bar, and buy souvenirs and your ski pass from the pop-up store, all in the open air. It will also provide the focal point for the final round of festivities celebrating the 150 th anniversary of the maiden ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865.
Michael Portmann
NEWS
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Downhill skiing under the stars at Rothorn and Blauherd: more dates In response to increased demand, a total of eight night downhill skiing events will now be held at Rothorn and Blauherd during the 2015/2016 season, between 25 December and 26 March. At the summit of the Rothorn, ski lovers will enjoy a traditional fondue, while guests at the Blauherd will be treated to a surprise “full moon� menu. Full information and dates available at www.matterhornparadise.ch/en/winter/mountain-adventures/moonlight-descents
NEW LOOK FOR THE HOTEL ALPENHOFF Now boasting weathered wood, natural materials and stylish grey and griege tones, the 42 rooms of the Hotel Alpenhoff have been given a tasteful makeover by Zurich-based interior design firm Cavigelli & Rinderknecht. A successful fusion of contemporary style and traditional Valais warmth. www.julen.ch/en/hotel-alpenhof/
FAREWELL TO THE HÖRNLI SKI TOW Operational since 1962, the Hörnli ski tow went into well-deserved retirement in April 2015 and will be replaced this coming winter by a six-seat ski lift running for 2.1 kilometres. Adding to the appeal of the Schwarzsee ski area is a new piste and an extensive snow-making system.
matterhorn.ultraks.com / D. Lafond
www.matterhornparadise.ch
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Matterhorn Ultraks SkiAlp: already on its third year! The challenge of the Matterhorn Ultraks is to provide a legendary sporting experience, while also offering everyone the chance to take part competitively for the first time. The contest is broken down into two events: ski mountaineering (SkiAlp), and trail running. The third year of the SkiAlp event is scheduled for 2 April 2016 and, as previously, will comprise three routes, the widely accessible “1K” (12.3 km), the more strenuous “2K” (18 km), and the highly technically demanding “3K” (22.5 km), interspersed with five climbs and five portages.
Skiguide application Zermatt Bergbahnen AG has released a new “skiguide” application, available free of charge. Its purpose? Helping holiday-makers find their position, and get directions, throughout the entire domain. Based on the individual user’s capabilities and skill level (to be filled in), the application shows the best route, updated in real-time. The application also takes ski lift and restaurant opening hours into account, and includes weather reports, available webcam images, and any warnings issued. A link to the online store lets you book your ski pass at any time. The application is available on both iOS and Android at their respective online stores.
Kurt Müller
www.ultraks.com
Zermatt from the skies What better place to live your Icarus-like dreams? A few steps in the snow and you’re off! Taking off from Rothorn (3103 m), paragliders can soar into the crisp morning air, circle like an eagle, and glide over the ski runs, before making their descent towards the white roofs of Zermatt for a soft (hopefully!) landing in the snow, or on the ice rink for those who dare!
http://app.matterhornparadise.ch/en
Discounted prices for sledge descents Sledge devotees now have twice as many reasons to rejoice. This winter, sledging from Furi to Zermatt will be available every Tuesday and Thursday between 15 December and mid-March 2016. Happy holders of a half-price or general pass, a Peak Pass or a Swiss Travel Pass, will enjoy half price for the extra journey to Furi. www.matterhornparadise.ch/en/winter/ mountain-adventures/tobogganing-fun
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www.alpine-adventures-zermatt.com
Maison Ogier Maison Ogier has been creating luxury sportswear since 1948, expressing comfort, style and elegance in each and every one of its pieces. Appealing to a demanding clientele that sees the beauty of the slopes as a way of life, its various product lines are available at newly opened stores in Zermatt, Verbier and Crans-Montana, with further shops set to open in Courchevel, Aspen and Tokyo in 2017. ogier-ski.com
TIMELESS
THE SMALL GRAND HOTEL Step inside the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof and be transported to a world where time takes on a whole new meaning. Here, we believe that time is the last true luxury. While you are with us, you have all the time in the world.
www.zermatterhof.ch
NEWS DR
A SPECIAL BREW Brewed in Zermatt at the foot of the mother of all mountains, Zermatt Beer “Matterhorn” (5%) is the latest incarnation of the famous peak. Smooth and fruity, amber/ reddish in tone and neither filtered nor pasteurised, Zermatt Beer is now used as an ingredient in some of the region’s sausages. For every bottle sold, the brewery donates two Swiss cents to the Compagnie des Guides. www.zermattbier.ch
THE RIFFELHAUS: IN THE HEART OF IT ALL Perched high up in the Zermatt ski area at 2,548 metres above sea level, the 112-year-old Hotel Riffelhaus is looking decidedly perky for its age. Europe’s highest four-star hotel with spa, the iconic Riffelhaus boasts an outdoor jacuzzi, where the very best of backdrops is provided by the Matterhorn. The iconic mountain is also visible from some of the rooms, which are now lined in wood from head to toe. It’s the ultimate ski in & out hotel. www.riffelhaus.ch
SKIING AND WIFI All the resorts in the Zermatt Bergbahnen AG network now offer free Wi-Fi. Log on to the home page for weather forecasts and an interactive panoramic map of the entire ski area. The skiing guide app features a navigation function that allows users to map out routes in line with their ability, snow reports and the opening times of all facilities in the ski area. www.matterhornparadise.ch/en
Discover your inner child... on a sled! Zermatt’s younger residents nickname them “Doc the Bob”or “Üz the red horse”. Glorious mounts indeed! The steeds in this case are sleds, which let sparks fly as they speed down local routes. The Rotenboden-Riffelberg descent on a sled takes five to ten minutes, and is a joy for all ages. Trains from Gornergrat Bahn leave about every ten minutes to take riders to the top. Sleds can be enjoyed on other routes as well, though never on ski runs. Equipment rentals:
Co-o-peration
DR
www.bayardzermatt.ch
Zimmerli of Switzerland – The ultimate in underwear Founded in 1871, the Aarburg company’s driving ambition has always been to make the finest underwear in the world. To achieve this goal, it employs rigorously selected natural fabrics (pure unbleached silk, merino wool, hand-picked Indian cotton) and modern materials of the very highest quality, such as MicroModal and Lyocell, produced using beech, pine and eucalyptus fibres. The designs, meticulously detailed, contain stitching so fine as to be invisible. The finished products provide an incomparable feel, absolute comfort, and exceptional elegance. Visit the Zimmerli store in Bahnhofstrasse to see the timeless classics of the Basic collection and seasonal collection loungewear in the very latest colours. www.zimmerli.com
Luxury and indulgence
At penthouse Nabucco Sleek modern lines and traditional materials come together harmoniously in this breath-taking penthouse. Join us in this exclusive tour of one of the most beautiful chalets in Zermatt.
Stepping from the lift into a large entrance hall entirely in wood, you already catch a glimpse of the magnificent lounge, its brightness enhanced by the large bay windows.
Back from skiing, the cosy lounge is an inviting spot in which to nestle in an armchair, in front of the doublesided fireplace (also facing into the kitchen), with a view of the village and the Matterhorn in the background.
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he Nabucco penthouse is certainly a long way from the biblical scenes evoked in Verdi’s famous opera! The lift doors which lead directly into this duplex loft apartment open onto a world entirely devoted to luxury and indulgence. This is one of the most exclusive properties in the resort of Zermatt, which stretches out beneath it. We pass through a fine entrance hall which emerges into a vast lounge and dining room space, from where a direct view of the majestic Matterhorn can be appreciated. The atmosphere in this 437 m 2 property, located in a tranquil central area of the village, is decidedly plush. The old wood on the walls and floor combines with the white decor in a happy marriage of modernity and mountain traditions. The fireplace which stands proudly in the lounge is double-sided, enabling those in the kitchen (where a second dining area is located) to fully enjoy its crackling heat. Close to the dining-room table is a charming alcove arranged as a TV nook, with the very latest in audiovisual technology. This floor also contains two bedrooms. A spectacular stairway then leads to the second floor, where the same warm atmosphere reigns, particularly in the very large bedroom with a fireplace, ensuite bathroom and balcony overlooking the Matterhorn. Then there are two further bedrooms, this time sharing a bathroom. The cupboards, all flush to the walls, contribute greatly to the sleek feel of the whole place. Finally, an office in the form of a balcony, located directly above the TV nook on the lower floor, looks onto the lounge. Pure luxury, down to the smallest detail‌ www.julensteigercie.ch
p The marriage of wood and ethereal whites is echoed throughout the property, as seen here in the bathroom of the master bedroom – accessible from two sides. s The Matterhorn takes pride of place at the large lounge table, for a meal among friends with an exceptional backdrop. a The kitchen, featuring wood-lined refrig-
erated drawers, is the perfect haven and refuge when the external elements encourage you to snuggle up indoors.
ss Wood, white decor, warmth and light…
the master suite, with access to a private balcony, offers the prospect of relaxing afternoons spent with someone special, far from the concerns of the everyday world.
The huge spaces of the apartment skilfully combine clean lines, openings and welldefined areas: the lounge and fireplace here, the office and TV nook there.
All along the hall leading to the lounge, wooden panels conceal cupboards cleverly hidden from view.
Flooding into the bedroom, the sinking afternoon sun highlights the remarkable headboard decorated with an image of the “mountain of mountains�, taken by the owner.
While the sun plays hide and seek with the Matterhorn, the indirect lighting arranged under the beams bathes the room in a warm, pleasant light.
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Zimmerli Boutiques Zermatt Bahnhofstrasse
G e n eva Rue du Rhône
Basel Fr e i e S t r a s s e
I n te r l a ke n H ö h e we g
Ta i p e i B e l l av i t a
Pa r i s Rue St. Honoré
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Legendary” is a word that is invariably used to describe the Patrouille des Glaciers (PDG), which runs between Zermatt and Verbier and will next be held on 19-24 April 2016. The greatest of all ski mountaineering races, the PDG is the bellwether of a sport that has been enjoying a boom for the last ten years now. The 2014 event attracted a record field, with 1,850 participants taking to the start line. For logistical reasons that number will be cut to a still considerable 1,700 next year, all of which begs two obvious questions: What is it that makes this extremely demanding race so hugely popular? And why has it gained such legendary status? We provide the answers, all four of them, below: Its age “It’s one of the oldest ski mountaineering races in the world (the second after the Trofeo Mezzalama, founded in 1933),” says Colonel Max Contesse, the event’s commander. “It’s part of Swiss tradition and heritage.” The race, which will be held for the 31st time in 2016, was created by the Swiss army during the Second World War, in 1943 to be exact, as a test of their troops’ abilities. The event was hit by tragedy in 1949, when three competitors fell to their deaths in a crevasse, prompting it to be cancelled indefinitely. It was not run again until 1984. Staged every two years, it now attracts increasingly large numbers of entrants, and such is the demand that a draw is held to decide who goes forward to compete in it. As was the case in its early days, the Patrouille des Glaciers continues to be supervised by the army, who bring their impeccable organisational skills to bear in staging it. Its difficulty The PDG is run on a 53km route with an elevation gain of nearly 4,000m, which equates to 110km without the altitude difference and offers a stiffer physical challenge than its two main rivals: the Pierre Menta, held in Le Beaufortain in Savoie (altitude difference of 10,000m but held over four days); and the Trofeo Mezzalama, which is held in the Valle d’Aosta on a 45km course with an altitude difference of 2,862m. “The Patrouille is also very challenging on a technical level,” comments Florent Troillet, a three-time winner of the event (twice on the long course and once on the short). “The roped descent on the glacier from Tête Blanche and the 200m climb without skis to La Rosablanche are especially tricky.” To take on the challenge, participants need to get 20,000m of elevation gain under their belts in training at the very least. And if you want to finish among the leaders or even beat the record of five hours and 52 minutes set in 2010 by the team formed by Troillet, Martin Anthamatten and Yannick Ecoeur, then you will need to do ten times that amount. One other factor that should not be overlooked is that a good third of the race takes place at night. Its alpine beauty The Patrouille des Glaciers snakes its way between the crevasses and 4,000m peaks of Le Valais. “The highest point on the course is 3,800 metres above sea level,” explains Colonel Contesse. “It takes place in very high mountains, which means spectacular views: mountaintops, steep snowy slopes, glaciers, the Berthold Hut, which is a real eagle’s nest and Les Dix dam. And then there’s the fact that it starts and finishes in Switzerland’s two most famous ski resorts.” What could be better than setting off from one of mountaineering’s world capitals and arriving at one of the most amazing freeride domains in the Alps? In the space of a few short hours, competitors can experience freezing Polar conditions and warm spring temperatures. Its atmosphere Unlike most other events, the PDG is contested by teams of three. “It means you have to know your team-mates very well and know how to progress together through hours of training,” says Contesse, who has five PDGs as a participant to his name. Though it is a race, competitors show a lot of solidarity with one another. One of the great things about the race is that it is open to both elite sportsmen and women and to keen amateurs, and there’s no prize money on offer for the winners, a hallmark of the event. All the competitors get the same enthusiastic backing from the hundreds of spectators who line the course, taking up positions at places that can only be reached after hours of strenuous effort. “Their support really helps us,” explains Troillet, who always welcomes the buzz created by spectators at the start in Zermatt and at the finish line in Verbier. www.pdg.ch
The patrouille DES GLACIERS
The 31 edition of this famous challenge will run between the two biggest Valais resorts in April 2016. A good time to reflect on why it has become so legendary and is ever more popular. st
THE GREATEST OF ALL SKI MOUNTAINEERINg races LEAVES FROM ZERMATT
Held on a majestic 53 km route between Zermatt and Verbier, the Patrouille des Glaciers boasts an elevation gain of 4,000m.
Straddling
work and wellbeing
At Zermatt, the stately steeds of the Grand Hotel Zermatter足 hof can often be seen drawing their carriages. In exchange for their good and loyal service, great care is taken to ensure they have everything they need. Ivan Buschor, head of the stables, takes us behind the scenes.
The three horses at the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof enjoy an enviable life. No thundering races here, just leisurely carriage rides.
The Grand Hotel Zermatterhof steeds are housed in brand new stables, completed in 2013.
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n old French proverb says, “Qui veut aller loin ménage sa monture” – he who wishes to go far takes good care of his steeds – and it’s clear that the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof has taken this to heart. Its three horses, named Hidalgo (6 years old), Manuela (12 years old), and Cypria (8 years old), enjoy a level of comfort which is commensurate with the 5-star hotel to which they belong. In exchange for good and loyal service rendered by pulling a carriage, they have earned their right to the best care available. Starting with spanking new stables, completed in 2013. Located in the Winkelmatten neighbourhood, near the hotel, the stables include a saddlery, well-lit stalls that open directly onto pastures which the horses enjoy daily, drinking troughs with heated water which doesn’t fall below 6ºC in the winter, as well as a washing area reminiscent of a spa –it even has a solarium! “The solarium serves a dual purpose. It is used to dry the horses in the winter after they have been washed down, which keeps them from falling ill; plus, it provides them with muscular relaxation,” explains Ivan Buschor, who has headed up the stables since 2013. Together with his Polish co-worker Agnieszka, who previously worked in a Swiss ranch raising Berber horses, Ivan goes to great lengths to care for his four-legged friends. “We give them top-quality feed, and they each have their own harness. Furthermore, I live near the stables and I can be over in a flash when needed,” explains Ivan, who previously worked at the Knie circus where he oversaw the locksmith, carpentry and painting workshops. The Zermatt stables provide a peaceful haven for the three Wielkopolski, a sturdy horse breed of Polish origin, as well as an opportunity for the hotel’s guests to experience the horses first-hand behind the scenes. Guests may stroke the horses, help with brushing them down, or even cleaning the stables. It is an increasingly sought-after soothing and unwinding experience, according to the hotel’s website, which affirms that “a half-hour of caressing a horse’s nose is more relaxing than any yoga session”!
A relationship of trust Certainly Ivan Buschor would agree. His love for horses was born long ago. “I started riding at age 6, and learned to drive a carriage at age 14,” explains the native of Saint-Gallon. To pay for my lessons, I used to help my neighbour at his
stables after school and at weekends. Around 17 or 18 I started taking clients on the carriage at weekends and holidays to supplement my income as an apprentice truck mechanic.” Ivan is living his childhood dream at Zermatt, a place he loves both for its tranquillity as well as good times shared among friends. Carriage tours from the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof are available 7 days a week, year round. The horses, along with their caretaker, have the right to days off as well. “To ensure good health and wellbeing, they never work more than three days in a row,” he explains. More than just a working relationship, it’s evident that a genuine relationship of trust has developed between carer and cared for. “I have a fairly special relationship with Manu,” confides Ivan. “While her companions gambol around the fields, she likes to stay by my side. She understands my body language perfectly. It’s as if we were meant to know each other!”
Two of the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof horses with their trainer, Agnieszka
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Dead calm. Lake Riffelsee offers a mirror image of the Matterhorn and surrounding peaks. It’s easy to reach too, lying just a ten-minute walk from Rotenboden Station on the Gornergrat Bahn.
LEANDER WENGER IN RELENTLESS PURSUIT OF THE PERFECT LIGHT
This photographer from Zermatt captures the beauty of the mountains in his adoptive home, the High Valais – a childhood dream nearly thwarted by his upbringing.
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s a child, Leander Wenger loved taking photos. That was back in the late sixties and early seventies. Armed with a humble camera and a reel of colour film - although he can’t quite remember where it came from - the young boy would immortalise the village of Ernem where he lived, in Goms (Upper Valais), along with its people and the beautiful nature surrounding them. But when the young teenager dared to utter his dream of becoming a professional photographer one day, his chalet-building parents and the adults in his midst jolted him back to their idea of reality: “You can’t make a living from that!”. And so Leander put his dreams on the back burner and ended up working in a bank in Zurich. A passion for photography rekindled in the Himalayas Fast forward forty years, and Herr Wenger is now one of Zermatt’s eight professional photographers. To balance his passion and the so-called “real life” he was once told about, the 55-year-old also works as an accountant at a local 4-star hotel. The rest of the time he spends shooting chalet interiors, or else pulls on his trekking boots to head off in search of beautiful light. “What I love most about photography is being in the right place at the right
time to capture a moment forever. Subtly changing light and shadows, which often occur very early in the morning or at the end of the day, means I might have to go to the same place ten times to get the perfect shot, but I love it!”. It’s no coincidence that landscapes, and mountain scenery in particular, account for most of Leander Wenger’s pictures, as that’s how he ended up rekindling his passion for photography. As a keen mountaineer, Wenger set off on an expedition to the Himalayas in his early thirties. The Leica M he’d taken with him was stolen at Kathmandu airport. But it turned out for the best; on his return, he bought one of the first digital cameras on the market and picked up his favourite childhood pastime again. He started out slowly, but gradually gained speed working for various clients. In the meantime, the experienced globetrotter settled in Zermatt so he “could do as much skiing and mountaineering as possible”. Races at high altitude nurtured his taste for beauty and nature and soon had him clicking away. The Matterhorn craze: frustrating but fruitful The Matterhorn naturally plays an important role in the photographer’s work. “Partly because I like it, but also because they are the photos my clients invariably end up choosing”, says Leander with a wry smile betraying a hint of frustration. His own penchant is for another mountain - hardly any less famous - the Monte Rosa. Leander Wenger loves and fears the prestigious summits surrounding Zermatt in equal measure. A few years ago, they took the life of his friend before his eyes during a rockfall. He has since stopped climbing, but still skis and treks. After a long silence, he concludes: “What I find amazing about photography, is capturing a moment of grace that will never happen again.” Perhaps like that moment so long ago when he told adults of his dream to become a photographer, hoping to find encouragement. www.zermattfoto.ch
The pursuit of happiness, Zermatt-style: it’s time for that perfect combination of sun and powder snow.
The iconic Matterhorn is reflected on a still ice-free Lake Riffelsee. Before long this stretch of water will come under winter’s grip and spend several months under ice.
Located below Sunnegga Station, the hamlet of Findelen perches on a terrace overlooking Findel ravine.
Sitting right on the Italian border, Dufourspitze is, at 4,634 metres above sea level, Switzerland’s highest peak. Unfurling at its foot is the majestic Grenz glacier, which runs into the Gorner.
URS BINER ALIAS DAN DANIELL MEET THE SINGING RESTAURATEUR Urs Biner’s love for parties and crooning has made his lively restaurant one of Zermatt’s essential destinations, attracting celebrities in numbers.
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Very much one of a kind, the restaurateur Urs Biner is known around Zermatt as the “White Wolf”. “People know me better as Dan Daniell, though,” says the man himself, a smile etched on his face. “In fact, some people can’t even remember my real name.” The 54-year-old local lad with the boyish looks has recorded a few songs in his time, the latest of them a duo with former Abba singer Frida, a friend and near neighbour of his in the Swiss ski resort (see below), the two having hit it off one night at his restaurant, Chez Heini. Doing it his way A frustrated artist but a happy restaurateur? Whatever the case may be about Urs Biner’s career, one thing is for sure: there’s been nothing ordinary about it. The oldest of four children in a family of modest means, the young Urs cut his teeth as an apprentice chef in Geneva. “My intention was to go to art school, but my father said that my accent was an obstacle, something he regrets today,” he explained, casting an eye on the imposing family coat of arms overlooking the fireplace-grill. “I got to know Les Pâquis (Geneva’s red light district), hookers and homosexuality in the big city, which was a real eye-opener for someone who came from a very sheltered and safe background.” There then followed jobs at major hotels in Geneva, Lausanne and London as well as a gold disc, which came after he was spotted by German producers at a talent show. By the time he turned 28, however, the prodigal son was back home, picking up the baton at the family restaurant. One generation on, the chef, who scores 13 out of 20 with the prestigious Gault & Millau restaurant guide, has completely revolutionised the establishment, making it his own. “It wasn’t easy for my mother. It was a struggle for her when she saw me replace her redand-white checked tablecloths, and she still comes to inspect the place regularly,” explains the fiftysomething bon viveur, sipping on a coffee at his counter. Yet he has no cause for regret, not with a three-month waiting list. The showman The keys to his success are an explosive blend of tradition and an off-beat vision. Urs’ guests love the succulent Zermatt lamb raised by his father in
an alpine pasture in Furi, though it’s perhaps true to say that they love the rustic/kitsch décor and the whole ambiance of the place even more. The garlic clove soup is served in red high heels, while the VIP area is a barred-off nook known as La cage aux folles. The framed photos on the wall document all the guests who have dined here over the years, among them Robbie Williams, Sepp Blatter, Goldie Hawn, Umberto Tozzi, Luciano Pavarotti and Christian Constantin. Like everyone else, they have been treated to Dan Daniell’s customary 22:30 slot, in which Urs’ alter ego sings to a backdrop of
sixties films. “If I’d met all these people when I was 20, I might have had a career,” said the man from the Haut Valais, feigning regret and coming over all nostalgic. “When I started to sing here, the locals would have been perfectly entitled to throw stones at me in the street,” he admits. “I’ve got a hard head, though, and I stuck at it. I know my father is proud of my success, even if he’s never congratulated me on it. He’s from a different time and it’s not always been easy for him to accept that I prefer perfume and showbusiness to sheep and priests.”
Frida and Urs “Frida is almost like a sister to me,” says Urs. Since first meeting 17 years ago, the restaurateur and the former singer with Swedish pop legends Abba see each other virtually every day. The Norwegianborn star, whose real name is Annifrid Lyngstad, moved to Zermatt following the death of her husband 16 years ago. “I’ve been in love with the place ever since. Its wonderful surroundings have soothed me in difficult times, such as when my daughter died,” says Frida. She and Biner are so close that they recently recorded I Have a Dream, the official song of the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn. “I really put a lot into the project and it was a lot of fun,” she adds. When she’s not singing, the ultra-discreet star, who is now 70, devotes her energies to skiing or writing about her life. “Sometimes I’ll go off piste and try something like the Haute Route, which I did in 2001, or I’ll go heli-skiing. Even now I find it hard to resist the lure of a nice descent on an untouched slope,” explains the ex-seventies star. “It’s like I’m dancing with nature.”
ii Tuna tartar with artichoke, potato cream and fish roe. i Guinea fowl with herbs, potatoes, cèpes and blackcurrant.
For the last six years, the Italian chef and his team have spent their winters in the kitchens of the Ristorante Capri at the Mont Cervin Palace Hotel, where their culinary flights of fancy have earned them a 17-point rating in the 2016 Gault&Millau guide.
MediterraSalvatore bringing nean cuisine to the Elefante heart of the Alps
i Salvatore Elefante, pictured at the Mont Cervin Palace’s Ristoranti Capri in Zermatt. o Lobster Lemon scented tagliolini with potatoes and herbs, creamy bisque and crunchy vegetables. p with burrata cheese, marsh samphire and red prawns.
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very winter a warm Mediterranean breeze blows through the Alps, and it has nothing to do with global warming. The man responsible is Italian chef Salvatore Elefante, who for the last six years has been wintering in Zermatt with his team at the Mont Cervin Palace’s Ristorante Capri. An outsider working out of season – he spends his summers at two restaurants in Capri, including Capri Palace – Elefante has made seafood one of his specialities, bringing with him sun-drenched products sourced from the seas on the other side of the Alps. “Along with pasta, it’s what I prefer,” he explains, “and in an Alpine ski resort where meat dominates the scene, you could say that we’ve made fish our hallmark.” Born in Gragnano, a little town in the province of Naples – home to the first artisan Italian pasta makers in the fifteenth century – Elefante has undoubtedly stayed true to his roots. Featuring on his Zermatt menu this season are red mullet with smoked ricotta, saffron scented fennel and liquorice mayonnaise; an interpretation of
raw prawns and foie gras, green apple and gin; and spaghettoni with garlic, extra virgin olive oil, green peppers, baby squid and olives. As for dessert, the choice is between pineapple with a star anise mousse; buffalo milk ice-cream with black cherries; and hazelnut cream, espresso, toffee sauce and smoked chocolate ice cream. “My cuisine is spontaneous and as simple as possible,” explains the 30-year-old Elefante. “My dishes represent a search for the flavours of my childhood, which are hidden away in the corner of my mind. Sometimes they’re things that I didn’t even eat but which I just got to smell when I was young.” The leading light in Zermatt These subtle flavours and scents have earned Signor Elefante quite a reputation. The word is that he offers the very best southern Italian fish and seafood cuisine in the whole of Switzerland, a view with which the critics are not inclined to disagree. Gault&Millau’s 2016 Switzerland guide awarded Ristorante Capri a 17-point rating, the highest in all of Zermatt – a place famed for the sheer quantity
of gourmet restaurants to which it is home – and one point more than achieved by Alain Kuster’s Le Mirabeau and Ivo Adam’s After Seven, which, like Elefante’s winter residence, each received a star in the Michelin’s 2016 Switzerland guide. Aside from that kind of recognition, it is the sensory experience offered by Elefante that attracts diners to his tables. It is an experience that proves even more captivating and memorable than taking in the wonderful views of a snow-covered Zermatt, a place where two has now become one, with the visual feast served up by the mountains fusing and melding delightfully with the culinary feast laid on by the Italian chef. “I’ve worked in Courchevel, Crans-Montana and Marrakech, but Zermatt has a very special ambience all of its own,” he says. “I find it quite hard to put into words, and that’s coming from someone who doesn’t even ski. I do like taking a walk in the mountains with my wife, though, and having a nice glass of wine in a restaurant or taking a stroll through the village. This place is a bit like Capri: it’s small and magical.” www.montcervinpalace.ch
Tonatiuh Ambrosetti
Switzerland’s most stylish and incredibly popular mountain hut has been packed to the rafters since it opened in 2009. Why not grab your touring skis and pay it a visit, for an unforgettable evening and an overnight stay?
BACKCOUNTRY SKIING TO THE MAGNIFICENT
Sitting at an altitude of 2,883 metres, the eightsided Monte Rosa Hut is encircled by around 20 peaks of over 4,000 metres. Dubbed the “rock crystalâ€? and standing 18 metres tall, it can withstand gusts of up to 200 km/h and boasts a Minergie-P rating, thanks in the main to its 180 m² of solar panels.
François Perraudin
Approaching 4000 m of altitude on the Grenz glacier, at the foot of the Dufourspitze, with the Matterhorn, the Dent Blanche and the Obergabelhorn in the distance.
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An architectural and ecological gem The approach is certainly not an assault course. Although the full route via the Gorner Glacier from Zermatt takes five hours of exertion, it’s only four hours from Furi, two and a half hours from the Rotenboden stop on the famous Gornergrat railway line (see page 50) and one and a half hours from the upper station of the Stockhorn cablecar. Our destination – the impressive octagonal hut, perched at an altitude of 2883 metres – is surrounded by a magical circle of some twenty peaks higher than 4000 metres. Already iconic, this architectural gem, nicknamed the “rock crystal”, emerged from a project launched in 2003 to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich. Huddling at the foot of the main summit, Dufourspitze, it is designed to withstand gales of up to 200 km/h. Standing 18 metres high, its ecological structure (with a ‘Minergie-P’ rating) is built entirely from wood dotted with windows, aluminium, and 180 m2 of solar panels, helping it to achieve an energy self-sufficiency level of 92%. A beautiful stopover on the way to Dufourspitze On the terrace, where the sun always seems to shine, the gaze is drawn to Castor and Pollux, the Breithorn, the Matterhorn, and the glaciers of Gorner and Grenz. Some people choose to visit in the course of a day, long enough to sample the amazing view. Others opt to spend the night here, with the aim of heading off the next morning to tackle the long climb leading to the summit, known as Dufourspitze, which watches over Switzerland from a height of 4634 m. But if you want to enjoy a night in one of the hut’s bedrooms for three to eight people,
equipped with comfy 75 cm-wide mattresses, you’d better plan ahead: Monte Rosa Hut is only open from mid-March to mid-May, then from mid-June to midSeptember, and has been pretty much fully booked since it opened. A far cry from the mountain huts of old, or the cramped dormitories smelling of sweaty socks, it even has hot showers and indoor toilets… the pinnacle of luxury up here in the high mountains. www.neuemonterosahuette.ch More information for planning this trip or others: www.alpincenter-zermatt.ch www.meteosuisse.admin.ch http://map.geo.admin.ch (topographical maps) www.slf.ch (avalanche reports) François Perraudin
mong the many short backcountry ski trips in the Zermatt region, the journey up to the new Monte Rosa Hut is really quite special. It offers a route which, relatively speaking, is not too physically demanding and therefore widely accessible, and which passes through magnificent landscapes overlooking numerous glaciers and legendary peaks. The ultimate objective of this particular outing is to discover this high-tech shelter, built in 2009, which represents a flagship of Alpine architecture. Those who lack experience should of course seek the assistance of a professional mountain guide.
Access to the Monte Rosa hut via the spur of Gorner glacier from Furi offers some wonderful surprises and enables gradual altitude acclimatisation.
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Every day, the red and brown trains of the Gornergrat Bahn SA (GGB) run before the Matterhorn at speeds of between 20 and 30km/hr.
The Gornergrat Bahn The first electric cog train in Switzerland is also the highest open air train in Europe, offering its passengers views of breathtaking landscapes as it rises to the Gornergrat, where 29 peaks over 4000 m await. It’s not simply a train ride, but a unique experience!
the mountain train with a story to tell
The train reaches its destination at Gornergrat (3089 m), after 33 minutes, having travelled 9339 m.
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t carves a trail through deep gorges, burrows through tunnels and underpasses, traverses the heart of verdant forests of snow-covered arolla pines, treks alongside impressive bridges and sublime mountain lakes, all against the omnipresent backdrop of the Matterhorn. Riding the Gornergrat Bahn – which can be combined with a trip on the Glacier Express – is more than a simple train ride; it is an unforgettable experience. It all starts at the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn station, in Zermatt. Each day, the little brown trains of the Gornergrat Bahn SA (GGB) set off to conquer the majestic mountain landscapes at speeds ranging from 20 to 30 km/h. The higher the train ascends, the further back in time it goes. All the way back to 1898, when the train launched its first service after two years of construction. That’s right. We are riding in the very first electric cog train in Switzerland, a genuine piece of history from the pioneers of mountain train travel. About 2400 workers laboured to bring off this technical feat, opening up a new route through the mountain landscape. Initially running in summertime only, a winter route was later opened to Riffelalp in 1928/29, to Riffelberg 10 years later, and finally to the summit of Gornergrat in 1942. And thus the primordial stirrings of a thriving winter tourism industry were born.
A unique panorama At 3089 m above sea level, we arrive at our final destination – Gornergrat – after 33 minutes of travel and 9339 m of vertical gain. But while the ride may be over, the glorious spectacle continues as we emerge from the highest open air cog train in Europe, an experience shared by over 1.5 million passengers in 2014. To one side, the Matterhorn; to the other, Monte Rosa, which culminates in Pointe Dufour, the highest peak in Switzerland at 4634 m. From the panoramic platform perched at 3131 m, one can see no less than 29 summits rising above 4000 m, to which is added the third longest glacier in the Alps – the Gorner. Mark Twain, who climbed the Gornergrat in 1878, observed: “From this high seat, I had a marvellous view of the Monte Rosa and what appeared to be all the rest of the alpine world. A mighty group of snow-covered summits towered along the horizon. The splendour of the sun on the alpine snow was unimagi-
nable. Nowhere else is there such an exhibition of size and beauty as can be seen from the summit of the Gornergrat.” In this fairy tale setting, the sense of distance gradually disappears as the imagination easily jumps from one peak to another. While there, why not stay at the Kulmhotel Gornergrat – the highest hotel in Switzerland at 3100 m – and keep the dream true just a bit longer? www.gornergrat.ch
The train to Zermatt The village of Täsch is a mandatory stop before you get to Zermatt. That’s where most drivers leave their cars and take the red Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn shuttle train. A 12-minute ride, hugging the mountain side in a steep climb, will keep you breathless while waiting for your first glimpse of the Matterhorn upon arrival in Zermatt. It’s the perfect foretaste of adventures to come!
BE SMART - BOOK ONLINE. In the web shop of Zermatt Bergbahnen AG
All-in Web one shop Ski : pass es Eve nts Ski renta l Ski cour ses
matterhornparadise.ch/webshop Enjoy the runs on up to 360 kilometres of pistes with a spectacular backdrop of mountains between Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia. Thanks to our web shop you can book your holidays in Zermatt from the comfort of your home and get on the piste without waiting in line. Furthermore, web shop customers benefit from limited special offers for even more fun on the slopes in the Matterhorn ski paradise.
Š Garett Grove, Patagonia Inc. 2015 | desieb.com
breathe. Gear up for the mountains. At Lausanne, Zermatt and Vevey.
Yosemite Lausanne Bd de Grancy 12 1006 Lausanne 021 617 31 00
Yosemite Zermatt Bahnhofstrasse 20 3920 Zermatt 027 968 17 77
Yosemite Vevey Rue du Torrent 5 1800 Vevey 021 922 40 41
Kilian Jornet
ambassador for the globe-trotter’s watch The legendary runner, known for his speedy ascensions of some of the world’s most formidable mountains, is naturally a frequent traveller. An entirely fitting representative for the Kailash watch by Suunto.
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atalan athlete Kilian Jornet’s life is like a race against the clock, with successive records and times being notched up, each more incredible than the last. The facts speak for themselves: he is a triple world champion in the Mont Blanc Ultra-Trail (168 km), one of the most demanding races on the planet, four-time winner of the Skyrunner World Series, ski-mountaineering world champion, and record holder for the fastest ascensions of Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn and Mount McKinley. Indeed, his “Summits of my life” project has seen him climb some of the world’s most legendary peaks at lightning speed, with Everest next in his sights. Over the years he has become a living legend in mountain running. So it seems entirely fitting that he should adopt the role of watch ambassador. And not just any watch: the Kailash, which bears the name of a sacred Tibetan mountain. “Mount
53 | 30° special issue Zermatt
Kailash is forbidden to climb yet it’s the mountain with probably the most energy around it and inspires in every alpinist the spirit of adventure,” explains the Spanish runner, named Adventurer of the Year by readers of National Geographic. For the Finnish watchmakers Suunto, this mountain “symbolizes the drive of people who constantly push boundaries. An instinct embodied by athletes like Kilian Jornet.” Never get lost again Out of necessity, given the challenges he sets himself, the so-called “ultra-terrestrial” has become a hardened traveller. He therefore identifies completely with this watch, at the cutting edge of technology and perfect for globe-trotters. “The Kailash is designed above all for people who travel, with its many outdoor functions which have proven very useful.” The champion goes on to list those he appreciates the most: “It indicates the altitude and automatically changes time when you land in different latitudes. Its GPS enables you to know your precise location, and it even memorises the places you’ve already been.” A charming companion which will be adored as much by explorers as by businessmen on their extensive travels around the world.
The Suunto Kailash The traveller’s watch In design and function, this watch was born to travel. The Suunto Kailash, which takes its name from the sacred Tibetan peak, offers a vast range of features valued by globe-trotters, including GPS and a log book which records such details as locations visited and distances covered. And then there’s the Adventure Timeline™ function, which shows the current time alongside custom information, such as altitude, sunset/sunrise times, or number of steps taken. iPhone users can even receive message and call notifications via a mobile app. Everything you need to make life easier when you’re abroad. www.suunto.com
www.hamiltonwatch.com
PROUD PARTNER OF AIR ZERMATT
KHAKI TAKE OFF AIR ZERMATT AUTOMATIC SWISS MADE Limited Edition
AIR ZERMATT
Though best known for performing mountain rescue services, Air Zermatt also lays on scenic flights, which play a large part in helping them balance the books. We spoke to the company’s CEO Gerold Biner.
SCENICALLY STUNNING
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hat do Richard Branson, Robbie Williams and the former King Juan Carlos of Spain have in common? All three have enjoyed tours of the Matterhorn aboard an Air Zermatt aircraft. The company is a Valais institution, its legend founded on the 1,600 mountain rescue missions it conducts every year and which have seen it pick up the prestigious Heroism Award on three occasions. Scenic flights now play a large part in funding those operations, with Air Zermatt taking around 10,000 fortunate souls on tours of glaciers, seracs, crevasses and sheer rock faces every year, affording them sights often beyond the reach of even the most able mountaineers. With 2015 marking the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn, some 1,300 visitors succumbed to the temptation of an aerial view of the local peaks in just one week. A new helicopter high on comfort “Over the years these flights have become an essential means of compensating for the relative lack of profitability of rescue missions,” says Air Zermatt CEO Gerold Biner. Now 52, Biner has devoted 33 years of his life to the company, which he runs while still continuing to serve as a pilot. With a view to strengthening the company’s position in this market, an EC H130 with capacity for six passengers was added to the Air Zermatt fleet last June. Offering exceptional comfort, the helicopter is equipped with an anti-vibration system and high-tech earphones that cut out the noise, and is used to conduct summer flights around the Matterhorn (three round-trip options of varying durations are on offer) and for heli-skiing in the springtime, with customers being dropped off at three points in the region. “I was born and brought up in these mountains and it’s just wonderful to be able to show the area off to our visitors and to take them to within 100 metres of the rocks,” explains Biner. “Some of them get a taste for the mountains right there and then. You come across them later on the slopes, making their way up to the peaks in the company of a guide.”
A range of missions These scenic flights provide “wonderful training” for Air Zermatt’s pilots, offering inexperienced hands the chance to rack up valuable flight hours and allowing older colleagues to stay on top of their game in case of need. Much like his fellow local pilots, Biner loves the variety that the job brings, which might see him drop off customers at Geneva Airport on the same day as he takes supplies up to a mountain hut, carries a heli-skiing party to a drop-off point and performs a rescue mission. “That kind of diversity makes this a paradise for pilots,” he comments. The customers aren’t complaining either. www.air-zermatt.ch
A long-standing company with a modern outlook Three bases (Zermatt, Rarogne and Gampel), nine helicopters, 5,000 flight hours a year, 1,600 rescue missions and 47 years of history and counting: the facts and figures say it all. Air Zermatt was founded in 1968 by Beat H. Perren, a pharmacist and local councillor, who saw an air service as a means for the village to combat the avalanches that regularly cut it off from the rest of the world. So committed was he to the venture that he even put up his own money to buy its first Agusta Bell 206 A. “He’s still very active and recently designed a firefighting bucket adapted to our aircraft,” comments an admiring Gerold Biner, the company’s CEO. Air Zermatt now splits its time between rescue missions (20%), scenic flights (30%) and transport and supply runs (50%). Boasting a workforce of 65, including ten full-time pilots, the company has since 2010 been happily exporting its know-how to Nepal, where it gives training to local pilots and rescue workers.
The legendary Hornlih端tte sits on a rocky shelf at 3,260m alongside the peak it is named after.
The new hut has been entirely rebuilt as a futuristic cube flanking the historical Hotel Belvedere. The hotel’s interior has also been fully refurbished.
From the dining area, climbers are treated to views of the vertiginous slopes and glaciers
The Hörnlihütte reopened last summer after a year of refurbishment works. We report from one of the Alps’ most sought-after mountain huts, at the foot of the most popular Matterhorn route.
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ettle down in the brand new dining area or on the sun-drenched terrace of the newly renovated Hörnlihütte and enjoy a front row seat of a dramatic production. From early July to late September, the show is a sell-out and its scenery ever changing. The Matterhorn and its North-eastern Hörnli ridge, mesmerize their audience with perpetual costume changes prompted by the mist, sun or shadows. The actors’ lines are well rehearsed: “What’s the forecast for tomorrow?” The actors, however, are not thespians, but mountaineers, who trek off at the crack of dawn, ropes at the ready to tackle the legendary ascent and seeming from afar like a colourful parade of ants. If the Matterhorn is the stage, then a stopover at the Hörnlihütte is like waiting in the wings. This year, over 3000 climbers flocked to the newly refurbished lodge, set atop the ridge itself on a rocky plateau 3260m above sea level. The Hörnlihütte reopened to coincide with the 150 year anniversary of the first Matterhorn ascent.
Modest but comfortable The old refuge was demolished and has been replaced by an unassuming futuristic cube. It has been successfully merged with the historic Belvedere hotel, which has undergone extensive renovations itself. The CHF 8.5 million project required a year-long closure of the lodge, during which time a temporary base camp was installed. It was funded by the Matterhorn Group foundation, set up by the Zermatt civic community for this purpose. The result is a refuge built with simplicity in mind, but luxurious when compared with your average mountain hut, to the delight of Kurt Lauber, warden of the lodge since 1995: “Anywhere else, this refuge would look out of place, but not here, where it fits in perfectly with our magnificent Matterhorn”. “The Hörnlihütte needs to remain humble, because the Matterhorn is the star” says Zermatt architect Hans Zurniwen who oversaw the project. The
bright and spacious dining room is entirely glass panelled, simply furnished with stylishly designed wooden tables and chairs. This is where the nine assistant wardens serve mountaineers the hearty sustenance they need ahead of their climb the following day. There are 34 rooms on the two floors above offering 130 places (previously 170), at CHF 150.00 per night for halfboard. A good night’s rest is on the cards for once, with normal sized - or even double - mattresses and shower facilities! And as a bonus, guests can sink into comfortable leather armchairs in one of the two reading areas to devour stories of Alpine conquests. Approval all round No need for fancy decorations on the plain white walls: each of the many windows is a master piece in itself offering spectacular mountain views. Outside, thick old ropes have been recycled as railings on the terrace which offers an even more impressive 180° view of Monte Rosa. On busy days, up to 400 walkers hike up to enjoy a panoramic lunch. And why not; the 700m climb to the Hörnlihütte is only a beautiful two-hour hike from the top of the Schwarzsee lift. Some of the original woodwork and flooring has been kept and reused throughout the new building, but only a dry stone wall pays testimony to the hut’s previous existence. And nobody misses it. As Walter, a 36-year-old guide and Matterhorn local explains: “Before, we had to queue up for the toilets in the morning. The rest of the hut was narrow and damp. Now we can prepare our ascent the day before in excellent conditions!” The 300-page visitor’s book is already brimming with entries expressing similar enthusiasm, such as that penned by one Belgian mountaineer: “Thank you for the wonderful Swiss hospitality and for the precious comfort the day before embarking on an incredible journey”.
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Kurt Laubert has climbed the Matterhorn more than 400 times! But he’s usually to be found at the foot of the mountain, where he runs the Hörnlihutte.
KURT LAUBER
20 YEARS OF WATCHING OVER THE MATTERHORN
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The charismatic warden of the Hörnli hut is also a passionate guide of the Matterhorn. He spoke to 30° about his love for the mountain, which all began on his 20 th birthday.
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urt Lauber has scaled the Matterhorn more than 400 times, twice fewer than the outright record holder, his uncle Richard Andenmatten, but an impressive tally all the same. Now 54, the Zermatt guide is better known for having watched over the northeast ridge of the legendary summit for the last two decades. For three short months every summer, Lauber runs the Hörnlihütte and a team of nine employees. “I can’t see myself being in charge of anywhere else but here. I’ve always been fortunate, and I was lucky enough to be given this privilege in 1995, when I was looking for a summertime alternative to my job as a guide,” says Lauber, seated at a table on the terrace of his newly refurbished mountain hut, which lies 3,260 metres above sea level. Like father like son Despite having also explored the Himalayas and the Andes, the local boy describes the Matterhorn as the “most special” mountain of all. “When you reach the top, you’re all alone in the world. The other mountains keep a respectable distance and, if the skies are clear, you can see up to 200 kilometres away from all around. The only downside is that you can’t see the Matterhorn itself,” jokes the Zermatt-born Lauber. He scaled the legendary peak for the first time on his 20th birthday, in the company of his record-breaking uncle. “It was the nicest birthday present he could have given me,” explains Lauber. “It was a perfect climb, with someone who knew every little stone.” Having been introduced to climbing by a friend on Mont Rose only the previous year, Lauber immediately fell in love with the sport, which soon became a way of life for him: “Within five years I’d become a guide and since then mountains have pretty much been my life.” The climb that the Zermatt man remembers with most affection, however, is the one he completed with his son Kevin, who was eight at the time and still holds the distinction of being the youngest person ever to climb the Matterhorn. “When he was three he’d sit there watching the mountaineers set off in the middle of the night, pleading to go with them,” explains the boy’s father. “Then
we started going up there ourselves, a little bit higher each time, until one day we reached the summit.” An open book Pondering some other memorable ascents, Kurt tells the story of one man who pitched up in ordinary shoes and still managed to reach the top. “Luckily for him, the route was snow-free at that time of year,” recalls the hut-keeper, who has so many tales to tell about his favourite mountain that he has written a book about them: Le veilleur du Cervin (The Keeper of the Matterhorn), which has sold 40,000 copies so far, as far afield as Japan. It’s a work that details a few dramas too, which is not surprising considering this is a mountain that has claimed between 450 and 600 lives in 150 years of climbing. Lauber, who also has 30 years’ experience as a local mountain rescue worker to his name, has witnessed a few falls in his time. “It was horrible at the start, to go to the foot of the north face to pick up these battered bodies,” explains the man from HautValais. “You just get used to it in the end, though, and you realise that when you live in contact with danger, then you learn how to make better use of it. There’s also the fact that death is not bad in itself. It’s just part of life.” Summer holidays? On duty for three months every summer, seven days a week, from four in the morning to ten at night, Lauber and his troops have plenty to keep themselves occupied, what with cleaning chores, cooking, bookings and receiving supplies by helicopter. They barely have time for the weekly shower, a hardship imposed on them by the lack of water. “By the time the season comes to an end, we’re always happy to go back down,” comments Lauber, who says he dreams of spending long holidays climbing in the south, with the sea as a backdrop. His love for the mountains remains very much intact and he continues to work as a guide, spending his winters escorting loyal customers on heliski and ski touring trips in Canada, Greenland, India and, most frequently of all, in Zermatt, where he can keep a close eye on his beloved Matterhorn.
Zermatt guide Andreas Steindl climbed the Alphubel, the T채schhorn, the Dom, the Lenzspitze and the Nadelhorn in just 7hrs45; a 4015 m ascent over 30.7 km!
ANDREAS STEINDL:
MEDITATING IN THE MOUNTAINS A mountain-climbing and ultra-endurance prodigy, the 26-year-old guide from Zermatt has been attracting considerable attention. Some already see him winning the Patrouille des Glaciers, and the great Ueli Steck himself regards him as his successor. We interviewed this athlete at the peak of his powers.
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ndreas Steindl likes “moving fast and alone in the mountains”. This summer the Zermatt guide, with his lean muscles and youthful appearance, completed all eighteen 4000-metre peaks of the Monte Rosa Massif in the company of Ueli Steck in just 14 hours… How did he do it? He describes his state of mind as a kind of “trance” or “meditation”. “Up there, you forget everything else. It’s just you and the mountain. You’re living in the here and now”. But far from resting on his laurels, he signed up for more of the same in August, this time taking just 7 hours and 45 minutes to conquer the Alphubel (4206 m), the Täschhorn (4491 m), the Dom (4545 m), the Lenzspitze (4294 m) and the Nadelhorn (4327 m)… covering a distance of 30.7 km, involving 4015 m of ascent and 3900 m of descent! Smashing his own record on this route by 77 minutes, Andreas featured on rotation on CNN. “It was a real mix of pleasure and pain. At times, I asked myself why I was doing it, and I had to grit my teeth to finish, but in my mind I felt really strong”. The athlete, who is sponsored by Adidas, recovered in just two days, a miracle attributable to his incredibly strong heart which, at rest, records just 40 beats per minute. Championed by Ueli Steck “Andreas is a force of nature. Physically, he’s stronger than me, and on Monte Rosa I almost couldn’t keep up with him,” explains Ueli Steck. “In a way, I see him as a successor. He’s able to improve his technique on difficult slopes, he loves what he does, and he does it for himself.” Andreas Steindl’s entire life has revolved around mountain sports. At the tender age of five, his father, an Austrian mountain guide who moved to Zermatt, introduced him to mountain climbing. Then came competitive skiing, followed by ice climbing, at which the young boy continued to excel at world-championship level until the age of twenty. Two years later, in 2011, he qualified as a guide, and was already a prodigious talent. “I used to spend all my free time in the mountains, so this career was an obvious choice, especially living in the climbing paradise of Zermatt. Being outdoors, whether in sunshine or storms, is always beautiful, and it pushes you to break your limits.” In recent years, he has spent 300 days a year in the mountains and clocked up 150,000 metres in climbs on his backcountry skis each winter. His dream is one day to win the Patrouille des Glaciers. This is, after all, the race that “really opened his eyes” in 2010 when, supplying refreshments to his friend and fellow Zermatt native Martin Anthamatten – who went on to win that year’s race - Steindl caught the ultra-endurance bug. “Seeing him speeding by so fast in such an amazing atmosphere and setting persuaded me start to taking it really seriously.” Today, the young guide is a member of the Swiss team. Not everyone appreciates his speed records, such as the one he set on the Matterhorn in 2011 (2 hours 57 minutes). “About 5% of people I meet tell me that, for them, it’s not what the mountains are about. Maybe some of them don’t know I’m a guide and that the risks taken on these occasions are calculated.” The High-Valais native is not one to break the Alpine code. “Whenever possible, I leave from the valley on foot and carry all my technical equipment with me.” Is he ever scared? “I don’t think about it too much, because it would paralyse me more than anything. And even though I’ve buried several friends who’ve died during races, my passion is as strong as can be. The mountains mean so much to me!”
PROBABLY THE BEST SKI RESORT IN THE WORLD
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ermatt’s ski area has a whole lot going for it. Comprising 360 kilometres of runs, it straddles an international border and extends over an area far too large to cover in a single day. Boasting a vertical drop of 2,000 metres and snow cover that makes it skiable 365 days a year, 300 of them under sunny skies – with over 20 kilometres of runs accessible in the summer months at the Matterhorn Ski Paradise – Zermatt is both the highest ski area in the Alps and, in the eyes of many, the finest. That, in any case, is the opinion of the majority of the 48,000 snow sports fans that responded to Best Ski Resort’s extensive 2014 survey, who placed the Haut Valais resort right at the top of the celebrated ranking, ahead of 54 other leading Alpine destinations.
The mere mention of the name “Zermatt” inevitably conjures up images of the Matterhorn. A rocky pyramid with a uniquely magnetic appeal, Switzerland’s most famous mountain is visible from a number of runs and draws the eye of skiers from miles around. Soaring above them at a height of 4,478 metres, it is flanked by 37 majestic peaks that are themselves over 4000 metres high (the Alps has 82 such mountains in total), creating the most stunning of backdrops for this winter sports haven. Their imposing presence makes Zermatt the world capital of mountaineering, a distinction it shares with Chamonix, though when it comes to skiing, the Swiss resort has a significant edge over its French big sister. Nestling in the Mattertal Valley, Zermatt has managed to retain its villagey charm – unlike many other resorts – despite having as many as 14,000 beds to offer its guests. The absence of cars in the streets has had a large part to play in that. There are many reasons as to why Zermatt leads the way when it comes to skiing. Among them are the 54 ultra-modern and efficient ski lifts that serve the Matterhorn Ski Paradise and which make queuing a relatively rare occurrence. No fewer than four of them climb from the village itself right to the peaks, where there is nothing to stop the intrepid from embarking on a tour of the Italian resorts of Breuil and Valtournenche, via Testa Grigia, or from passing through the Theodulpass, an delightful bonus for any skier. Head out that way and you’ll come to the highest point of the whole ski area, which is not, as some believe, the celebrated cable car on Klein Matterhorn but the humble Gobba di Rollin button lift, which sits at the boundary between Le Valais and Aosta Valley and stands, at 3,899 metres, some 16 metres higher. www.zermatt.ch | www.matterhornparadise.ch
OUR PICK OF THIS SEASON’S
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emperatures are close to zero and promising clouds loom on the horizon. Long, powder-filled days are beckoning, to the delight of snow lovers everywhere. Perhaps it’s time to trade in your wellloved skis for a new pair? If so, how to find the best combination of ultimate sensations and optimal safety? Well, that depends on each individual’s aspirations and ability. The adrenaline junkie who enjoys hurtling down freshly groomed slopes won’t be looking for the same type of skis as someone who gets a buzz from leaving their freeride tracks in virgin off-piste powder, nor someone whose idea of bliss is donning a pair of skins to revel in the peace of a solitary climb, far from the bustle of overcrowded lifts. Not forgetting those who want to enjoy all of the above at different times, which is increasingly the case. So what type of skis should you go for - specialised or multipurpose? Nicolas Costanzo helps us make sense of the choices out there and offers some pointers on finding what’s right for you.
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A – Scott Superguide 88 128/95/116 – 1330 g for 178 cm – R: 21-28-15 m The Superguide 88 replaces the Cruz’air. Featuring a wood core and Scott’s unique 3Dimension sidecut, it offers downhill performance worthy of an alpine ski. And yet it only weighs 1300 grams for 178 cm in length. A definite must-try!
D – Movement Black Apple 118/80/107 – 1300 g for 177 cm – R: 20.5 m The iconic “Red Apple” is a hard act to follow, but testing the Black Apple showed us just how reactive and dynamic a 1300 gram ski can be thanks to modern technology. This extremely versatile model has a rocker to ensure a perfect response in all types of snow.
www.scott-sports.com
www.movementskis.com
B – Black Diamond Carbon Convert 133/105/117 – 1450 g for 180 cm – R: 23 m At 1450 grams, it weighs the same as a traditional touring ski. It is very wide and performs best on powder. It has a pretty flexible tail and large rocker which procure strong sensations without requiring too much effort from the rider. As it’s made from carbon it holds its shape during twists, making it stable and precise. Speed demons are best opting for as much length as possible. A great compromise if you’re looking for a light and versatile ski.
E – Scott Cascade 95 129/94/117 – 1350 g for 175 cm – R: 11/-/10 m This model is ideal for youngsters looking for a touring ski they can jump around with, but will also please the older crowd looking for a ski which turns easily and is less technically demanding. Its double rocker twin-tip design is an exciting feature, and it’s surprisingly stable at 1350 grams. Its 95 mm waist provides a pleasant off-piste ride without hindering uphill banks.
www.blackdiamondequipment.com
www.scott-sports.com
C – Völkl VTA 88 127/88/106 – 1230 g for 170 cm – R: 18.9 m Völkl is launching this new ski this winter. Its 88 mm waist – highly sought after in touring for the good float/turn initiation balance it strikes – offers considerable stability, despite weighing in at only 1200 grams and having a rockered tip, which means the ski is nimble and facilitates carving. Those for whom every gram counts can also opt for the lighter version which weighs about 1000 grams.
F – K2 Pinnacle 105 137/105/121 – 1725 g for 170 cm – R: 19 m This new all mountain ski comes up trumps on all types of snow, in all conditions. Although it’s slightly heavier than some of its competitors for uphill sections, it is precise, responsive and stable coming down. Don’t be fooled by its “fat” design; it is very easy to handle and has a radius of only 19 m. Recommended if you enjoy free touring, whether occasionally or intensively.
www.volkl.com
www.k2skis.com
G – Dynastar Cham 2.0 97 133/97/113 – 1710 g for 178 cm – R: 15 m Produced in the Mont-Blanc region, this ski’s tip and tail width sets it apart. It’s highly efficient in powder, but offers a notably surprising performance in average snow or difficult conditions. In spite of its width, it has a radius of only 15 m for 178 cm which means it has a very short turn initiation, which really makes a difference in corridors. It is pleasant to climb with and boasts an accuracy, grip and ride enjoyment difficult to match. www.dynastar.com
H – Blackcrows Orb Freebird 123/90/114 – 1540 g for 179 cm – R: 18 m A lighter version of the Orb, the Freebird has a 90 mm waist and will serve you well whether it’s for a day in powder or a full-on downhill race. Its technical specifications are relatively advanced and it features a traditional camber for great grip and speed, so it’s perfect for steep descents. It is an excellent, high performance touring ski with a design that needs no introduction. www.black-crows.com
I – Dynastar Cham Alti 85 120/85/110 – 1300 g for 170 cm – R: 20 m This is an alpine touring ski for purists, specially designed for high altitude treks. It’s light going uphill and offers a firm grip and good response on the ride down. The rockered tip on this rather narrow ski will help you plane and float through powder. It’s ideal for both avid tourers and those looking for something easy to handle without requiring too much effort. The square tail grips well and offers security on steep terrain, both uphill and down. www.dynastar.com
J – K2 Wayback 88 126/88/113 – 1350 g for 174 cm – R: 17 m Much lighter than the initial model, this all mountain ski is stable and manoeuvrable. Despite weighing slightly more than its rivals it has an efficient rocker, it is highly skiable and its sidewall ensures precision on hard snow and when turning. Ideal if you’re only going to be buying one pair of skis. Its 96 mm waisted big brother will appeal to free tourers.
NO S H O R TC U T S It’s the moment when you realize its all been worth it— the pre-dawn wake up’s, the bitter cold, the effort that come’s with each step, each deep breath—now its just you, the mountain, and the descent.
www.k2skis.com
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SCOTT-SPORTS.COM © SCOTT SPORTS SA 2015 | Photo: Christophe Margot
BOOTS TO MATCH YOUR FEET AND SKIS
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How well you command your skis largely depends on the stiffness and shape of your boots. This guide should help you fathom your way through the array of choices out there.
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t the risk of stating the obvious, a good pair of skis is essential for a successful time on the slopes (see previous pages). But what some skiers don’t realise, is that wearing the right boots is equally important. You might have the best skis around, but combining them with badly fitting or poor quality boots is like training hard for a marathon and setting off in flip-flops: inefficient, unsuitable, uncomfortable, and even dangerous. Fortunately, Nicolas Costanzo, a ski specialist in Lausanne, is on hand to help us pick out eight pairs of boots designed for different kinds of skiing. “You still need to be careful though - although some boots are designed for specific types of skis, the skier’s height and weight play a big part in getting a perfect fit.” warns our expert. It’s essential to seek professional advice to find the right fit for your feet.
A – F1 Evo Manual by Scarpa The successor to the famous Scarpa F1. Having abandoned the Tronic system (which enabled the boot to lock automatically in walk and ski modes) due to poor long-term reliability, this model now features a more traditional manual system. The boot, weighing in at 1200 grams, offers a lighter solution for many skiers while the BOA system holds the foot well. www.scarpa.com
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B – Spectre by La Sportiva A sturdy, versatile and lightweight boot which has taken the touring world by storm and conquered many a skier looking for a four-buckle boot of less than 1500 grams. Its key features are a comfortable liner and its sturdiness, and it is equally suitable for ski mountaineering or freeride skiing. www.sportiva.com
C – Backland Carbon by Atomic The long-awaited Backland makes its appearance this winter and is full of surprises; weighing only 1200 grams, its double-buckle system has an impressive weight-performance ratio. We expect this boot to secure itself a place in the already plentiful double-buckle market. And that’s not all: it also has a firm hold despite being so light. Another useful feature is that the flex can be altered with the tongue. This boot will no doubt be popular among tourers who don’t want to compromise. www.atomic.com
D – Maestrale RS by Scarpa The ultimate reference for skiers looking for a good blend of uphill flex and a hold worthy of a downhill racing boot. Despite weighing 1600 grams – heavier than some of its rivals – its comfort, ease of entry, buckle across the instep and Quick Step In insert means it’s unlikely to be knocked off its pedestal for the foreseeable future. www.scarpa.com
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E – Superguide Carbon by Scott Scott’s ultimate innovation. The design is inspired by their experience with the Cosmos. This boot has a Powerlite Carbon shell which affords perfect and precise foot movement on the up and guarantees a good hold coming down. And to top it off, its Gore-Tex liner is guaranteed to keep your feet nice and dry!
– Photos : © Marc Daviet
www.scott-sports.com
F – MTN Lab by Salomon After years of working on a touring ski product, Salomon reveals the fruit of their labour this winter. The brand has introduced their first specialised offering comprising two categories: Explore, for regular tourers, and Lab, for free tourers. The latter is designed for riders seeking good downhill sensations. They reportedly have a flex rating of 120. These boots are very easy to slip on and weigh in at less than 1600 grams. www.salomon.com
G – Dy.N.A Evo by Dynafit Dynafit has been revolutionising the world of touring ski boots since it brought out its Dyna boot in 2009. The most recent version of this benchmark boot weighs hardly anything – a mere 687 grams – and combines the best pieces of modern technology, namely an innovative liner for optimal power transmission and sophisticated thermal properties. These boots are perfect for skimo (ski mountaineering) racing. www.dynafit.com
H – Cosmos by Scott With a very gradual flex, these lightweight boots (1500 grams) tick all the boxes for free tourers or those who expect high performance on descents. With four buckles providing a snug fit, these boots also offer lots of articulation for a good climb. www.scott-sports.com COL DE THORENS, FRANCE
www.julbo.com
Peak Performance Printing Solutions
PCL Presses Centrales SA Av. de Longemalle 9 | 1020 Renens | TĂŠl. 021 317 51 51 | www.pcl.ch
Valais rye bread a healthy local staple
Protected by its own Designation of Origin (DOP), Valais rye bread (pain de seigle) has been made and eaten in the region for many a year. With its slightly sour, tangy taste, it remains popular today and is an essential accompaniment to local dishes Text_F r é d é r i c R e i n
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he cracks on the rounded crust of Valais rye bread are reminiscent of parched earth, a metaphor that is somehow appropriate, given the cereal’s rare ability to withstand the challenging growing conditions found at high altitude. At one time it was cultivated on land up to 2,200 metres above sea level in the region of Findelen, not far from Zermatt. The little round loaf is redolent of bygone days, when it provided mountainfolk with essential sustenance as they went about the nomadic lives forced on them by the vagaries of the weather. Though production of the straw cereal has dropped, it is still being grown thanks to the Designation of Origin (DOP) status awarded to Valais rye bread in 2004. The DOP, which has also helped safeguard the mountain environment and ensured the survival of old mills and communal ovens, stipulates that each stage of the production process, from the harvesting and milling of the grain to the making of the bread, must be carried out in Valais. “It’s a product that’s dependent on a lot of factors, such as the temperature, the humidity and the quality of the flour,” explains Philipp Fuchs, who runs the Pius Fuchs bakeries in Zermatt, which has been making the bread for more than 50 years. “It’s all part and parcel of the Valais culture, though, and it contributes to the identity of the region’s people.”
Over a tenth of Valais bread production An essential part of any local dish, Valais rye bread has a distinctive yet subtle sour taste, a tang leant to it by the yeast that helps it keep for a long time.
Rye flour accounts for a minimum 90 percent of its composition, with the remaining ten percent or less made up of wheat flour, yeast, salt and water, though each baker adds their own individual touch to the mixture. With Valais rye bread accounting for around 11 percent of the local bread market (as opposed to 1.2% nationally), they have to make plenty of it. “I enjoy it with a little butter or raclette cheese, washed down with a glass of Petite Arvine,” adds Fuchs. Packed with fibre, vitamins and minerals, it aids digestion and is also a useful ally in reducing cholesterol. Make no mistake, in this part of the world Valais rye bread inspires devotion among the healthy-living locals.
Beer soup with Valais rye bread Ingredients (for 4 people): 350g of Valais rye bread; 0.5l of beer; 0.6l of beef stock; 50g of Valais raclette; salt and pepper. Preparation: Soak the Valais rye bread in the beer for 30 minutes and then squeeze the beer out of the bread and into a bowl. Bring the beef stock to the boil, add the beer and the bread, and simmer for five minutes on a gentle heat. Add salt and pepper and serve with diced raclette and a glass of Fendant.
Pascal Gertschen
NEWS
STARGAZING, ZERMATT STYLE Perched atop the Gornergrat Kulm Hotel, at an altitude of 3,100 metres, the Gornergrat observation tower offers an opportunity to explore the fascinating night sky high above Zermatt, all in the company of an astronomer. Once you’ve finished gorging on the stars, your evening continues with a Chinese fondue (all you can eat!) at the Gornergrat’s restaurant. www.gornergrat-kulm.ch www.gornergratbahn.ch
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25 th Horu Trophy Zermatt Do you know how to hit and roll, sweep and give commands? From 14 to 17 January 2016, Zermatt will celebrate the 25th anniversary of one of the largest outdoor curling tournaments in Switzerland, at which 76 teams, including a number from abroad, will battle each other on 19 different curling sheets, all with an amazing view of the Matterhorn! The winner will emerge from the best of five legs. But beyond the competitive aspect, it is the camaraderie and sociability which make curling so very special. www.cczermatt.ch
Fuchs: half a century of baking tradition Since 1965, this small family business has been offering “home-made” products, made entirely by hand. There is bread, naturally, but also local–and beloved–specialities, including the Zermatt pain aux poires, the pain du guide, or the Zermatt walnut tart. It’s also worth stopping in for its excellent “Matterhörnli Nougat”, which doubles as a great local souvenir (though one that won’t go long uneaten!). www.fuchs-zermatt.ch
Rob Lewis
New “Howette” run to the valley Starting this winter, a new piste will reach the valley from “unteren National”. The Howette, as it is named, passes over the heights of Riedweg, resolving the conflict between providing for winter sports and servicing residential areas. Skiers and snowboarders can now enjoy the new run down to the valley, while residents can take a pedestrian tunnel from Gryffelblatte.
Backstage Hotel
Christian Pfammatter
Michael Portmann
Acoustic bliss at Zermatt Unplugged Its very name is music to the ears of fans the world over. From 5 to 9 April 2016, the hills will be alive with the sound of this year’s Zermatt Unplugged festival, provided by a raft of big names from the national and international scene, reworking their repertoires from an acoustic perspective. The programme includes five days of non-stop music, to be enjoyed at a dozen different indoor and outdoor venues, including six free stages reserved for new talents and one perched at an altitude of 3030 m at the Gandegghütte. Sounds fantastic! www.zermatt-unplugged.ch
Snowshoe trekking As soon as the first major snowfalls begin, the snowshoe trekking path between Täsch and Randa will be open for business once again. Taking around two hours, this is a route of low technical difficulty, ideal for families. It leads through snow-covered meadows and forest, with a few slight ups and downs. Trekkers can return on the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn railway or by taxi.
An evening at Le Vernissage cinema Zermatt has its own cinema, and a very special one too! Le Vernissage is a work of art in its own right, designed by Zermatt architect and artist Heinz Julen, renowned for his mobile chandeliers. In the multi-purpose theatre, the latest blockbusters can be seen alongside two local films, “Whympers Weg auf ’s Matterhorn” and “Menschen am Matterhorn”, both shot in the 1950s with a Super 8 camera by August Julen, father of Heinz. A mountain guide and ski instructor, Heinz Sr. learned the art of film-making from one of his pupils, none other than Walt Disney! Screenings every Tuesday and Thursday at 6.00 pm. Info on +41 (0)27 966 69 70. www.backstagehotel.ch/cinema.html
Michael Portmann
www.zermatt.ch/en/winter-hiking-snowshoeing/Snowshoe-trails
TA XI CHRISTOPHE
SCOTT – LCG GOGGLES Boasting Scott’s award-winning Lens Change Slider system, the LCG goggles set a new benchmark in terms of performance and innovation. Available in 11 colours, they come with two interchangeable lenses (and a portable low-profile lens case), allowing skiers to adapt their vision to every situation and adjust quickly and confidently to all the challenges the mountain has to offer. For their part, the all new LCG Compact goggles are designed to provide a better fit for people with small faces.
Your partner for taxi, airport transfers, parking, transports, breakdown service and all kind of repairs in Zermatt
www.scott-sports.com
www.darioseiler.ch
THE MAMMUT ULTRALIGHT REMOVABLE AIRBAG: SAFETY MADE SIMPLE A backpack and airbag weighing less than 2kg? With the new Ultralight Removable Airbag, Mammut gives ski touring fans what they’ve been looking for by combining lightness and effectiveness. When deployed, the airbag increases the wearer’s volume to help prevent you from being buried in an avalanche. The whole system can be removed from the backpack in a matter of minutes and installed with a minimum of fuss in other compatible backpacks. This practical backpack comes with an easily accessible zippered main compartment, diagonal ski attachment, a trekking pole/ice axe carry and removable back padding that can be used as a cushion. www.mammut.ch
Tel. +41 (0)27 967 3535 | info@3535.ch |www.3535.ch
THE KJUS HUBLOT LIMITED-EDITION JACKET Sportswear brand Kjus and watchmakers Hublot have joined forces to create this exceptional jacket, available in a limited edition of 200 only. Inspired by the Big Bang Unico Carbon watch, it features a string of technical innovations, including the first carbon zip ever created and a sleeve watch window. Ultrafine PrimaLoft® microfibre keeps you warm even in damp conditions, while the lining contains phase change material to trap excess heat if necessary and a carbon membrane allows for up to 10% more heat retention when temperatures drop. www.kjus.com
Familie Leander Imesch | CH-3929 Täsch / Zermatt
trends sport By_C h ri stian B u g n o n
The Mountain Hardwear Kelvinator® Hooded Jacket Thanks to its water-resistant Q.Shield® insulation, which keeps moisture and humidity at bay, the Kelvinator Hooded Jacket guarantees high loft and warmth whatever the conditions. Exceptionally comfortable, even in the wet, it’s also highly compressible and stows away in its own pocket for packing. www.newrocksport.ch
The Scarpa Primitive Oh the memories! The Scarpa Primitive takes its inspiration from a 1970’s boot still worn today by lumberjacks and stonecutters. Happily reworking the old design and adapting it for everyday use, the Primitive is an authentic and superbly crafted boot designed to appeal to today’s youngsters. www.newrocksport.ch
Ski Trab’s Swiss Special Edition Skis Marketed exclusively in Switzerland by New Rock, Ski Trab’s new S1 and S2 freetouring skis come in a range of colours and flex options. Built using the Lombardy company’s own 14-layer lightweight technology and designed for use on all types of snow, they make entering and exiting turns a whole lot easier. Offering more in the way of flex, the S2 are the ultimate fun skis. www.newrocksport.ch
The Julbo AEROSPACE/UP AND DOWNHILL Goggles Julbo has created the first goggles that work just as well going uphill as down. Created following careful observation of riders on their approach runs, they boast the proprietary SuperFlow system, which prevents fogging on climbs by allowing you to pull the lens forward for increased ventilation while still receiving maximum protection from the sun’s rays. They also come complete with the very best in Julbo technology: a spherical lens and minimalist frame for an extra-wide field of vision. www.julbo.com
trends watches By_g u y mi c h el
IWC – PORTUGIESER ANNUAL CALENDAR Annual calendar and a 7-day power reserve: behind its masculine dimensions, the Portugieser Annual Calendar combines elegance and technical prowess in one case. Two circular engraved sub-counters – the second hand at 9 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock – achieve a pleasingly balanced sunray finish dial. Inside, the watch is powered by IWC’s inhouse calibre 52850. Available at Bijouterie Schindler – Zermatt. www.iwc.com
HUBLOT - BIG BANG FERRARI CARBON KING GOLD The bezel’s intriguing blend of carbon and metal catches the eye first, with the King Gold alloy case adding a rather special, metallic finish: gloss microblasted to enhance its robustness. This 500-piece limited series of the Big Bang Ferrari Carbon features a Unico in-house movement mechanism, with the plate, bridges and the oscillating weight coated with black PVD visible through the dial and the sapphire case back. Available at Hublot Store – Zermatt.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN – HARMONY DUAL TIME This is THE watch for nomads. Equipped with two time zones, the Harmony Dual Time comes in a delicate 18-carat white gold case with a square bezel encrusted with 88 diamonds totalling 1.2 carats. On a silvery milk glass dial featuring gold or bluish leaf-shaped hands, its blue painted numerals are easy to read. The moon and sun symbols telling you whether it’s day or night, are made of gold. Ready for the off? Available at Bijouterie Schindler – Zermatt.
www.hublot.com
www.vacheron-constantin.com
OMEGA - SEAMASTER AQUATERRA 150M JAMES BOND For the big screen release of “Spectre”, the 24th instalment in the James Bond saga, Omega unveils a timepiece inspired by all things 007. The watch’s blue dial and the tip of the second hand feature the Bond family coat of arms, with the oscillating weight resembling a gun barrel. Inside, the watch is powered by the new Omega Master Co-Axial calibre 8507. But don’t hang around, this edition is limited to 15,007 pieces. Available at Bijouterie Schindler – Zermatt. www.omegawatches.com
OFFICINE PANERAI – PANERAI RADIOMIR 1940 3 DAYS Beneath this watch’s smooth finish lies a whole lot of character. The highly versatile Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days is fitted with the new calibre P.1000 and packed with an impressive 3-day power reserve thanks to its two barrels. The special alloy with a high copper content mixed with a hint of platinum used for the 5NPT red gold case keeps corrosion at bay, so you can head for the spa with peace of mind! Available at Bijouterie Schindler – Zermatt. www.panerai.com
ZENITH – EL PRIMERO CHRONOMASTER OPEN POWER RESERVE A successful blend of traditional watchmaking and modern audacity, an opening on the dial of this legendary Zenith model proffers a glimpse of the intricacies and magic of the inner workings of El Primero’s movement. A deserving successor of the movement first introduced in 1969, this model features a central chronograph hand, a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, and a tachymeter scale harking back to the chronographs of early automobile racing. Available at Bijouterie Schindler – Zermatt. www.zenith-watches.com
TAG HEUER - AQUARACER 300 M CALIBRE 5 Any chronograph which can resist up to 300 m of pressure gets our seal of approval. The Aquaracer 300M not only works like a dream, it’s also reliable, accurate and stylish - so you’re all set for a chic and action packed winter. Its steel case is twinned with a sober striped dial featuring luminous indexes for a subaquatic feel. Equally suited to a heady descent on the slopes or around town! Available at Bijouterie Schindler – Zermatt.
Tissot – T-Touch Expert Solar Zermatt Special Edition Produced to mark the 150th anniversary of the first Matterhorn ascent, the Tissot T-Touch Expert Solar Zermatt Special Edition pays tribute to the mountain of all mountains, whose emblematic image features on the tactile dial – set inside a compass rose. The dial is so clear that you can see the sophisticated solar panel which it runs off. The LCD “night sky” effect even makes it disappear in the dark! On sale at the new Tissot store - Zermatt www.tissot.ch
www.tagheuer.com
CARTIER – CLÉ DE CARTIER Might this be the key to success? This watch is all about balance and proportion: an original shape, somewhere between cushioned and barrelled, clean lines and a crown adorned with a sapphire; a design inspired by the keys used to wind up clocks of times gone by. Engraved dial, blue hands, Roman numerals this new case ticks all the boxes of Cartier’s hallmarks and houses the calibre 1847 MC, which pays homage to the year the Maison was founded. Available at Bijouterie Schindler – Zermatt. www.cartier.com
ROLEX – LADY-DATEJUST 28 The new generation of the Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust model is endowed with a redesigned case which has been widened to 28 mm and a mechanical movement (calibre 2236) featuring Rolex’s patented silicon Syloxi hairspring for superlative chronometric performance. Its precision meets criteria twice as stringent as those for an officially certified chronometer. It gets extra glamour points for the diamond-set “stars” on the hours and the IX numeral. On sale at Bucherer and Chronometrie Stäuble jewellers - Zermatt. www.rolex.com
BASELWORLD.COM
The one unmissable trendsetting show for the entire watch and jewellery industry, where all key players unite to unveil their latest creations and innovations. Be a part of this premier event and experience passion, precision and perfection in action.
MARCH 17 – 24, 2016
Shops zermatt An all-new Hublot Store in Zermatt Hublot now has its name emblazoned in capital letters on the wooden shop front at No27 Bahnhofstrasse. The upmarket location gives the timepiece brand – more Alpine than ever – a place where it can showcase the precision craftsmanship for which it has become renowned. The store/ chalet has an invitingly warm ambiance and will be used to stage a number of events, among them a tie-in with the Zermatt Unplugged festival, which Hublot partners. www.hublot.com/fr/boutique/ suisse/zermatt
Schindler’s mountain chic Watch brands are increasingly visible on the Bahnhofstrasse, with Schindler devoting two stores to four brands, all in a stylish mountain setting. While Patek Philippe shares its space with Wellendorf’s jewellery in one, Tag Heuer rubs shoulders with Zénith in the other. “It’s what the manufacturers want and it’s also welcomed by customers, who find everything their favourite brands have to offer,” said the stores’ co-owner Elias Aufdenblatten. www.schindler-zermatt.ch
Tissot makes its presence felt in Zermatt A partner in the renovation of the iconic Hörnlihütte and of the celebrations held this year to mark the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of the Matterhorn, Tissot is bolstering its presence in the resort with its second flagship store in the mountains, three years after the first opened in Jungfraujoch. The new location will showcase Tissot’s new store design and its various collections, among them the innovative T-Touch Solar Zermatt Special Edition, not to mention a watchmaking exhibition. www.tissot.ch
NEWS Air Zermatt
Goldbergh, functional yet stylish Creating pieces with active, fashion-aware women in mind, Dutch label Goldbergh is this winter showcasing skiwear that is both trendy and yet perfectly suited to negotiating the slopes and the chilliest of temperatures. Functional yet elegant, sporty yet stylish: what more could you ask for? Exclusively at Bayard Sport, Zermatt
Ready for some heliski? Hardcore skiers and snowboarders have only one dream: gliding down untouched fields of immaculate powder. Beyond the runs accessible by mechanical means or those reached by long hikes or climbs, a glorious path points the way: heliski. It’s the chance to reach the top of a snow covered peak in no time at all, with nothing but you and unspoilt snow. Zermatt provides excellent heliski and heliboarding options. Air Zermatt offers no less than ten different open-space runs, in the company of Alpin Center mountain guides. The most highly coveted, Monte Rosa, starts at 4200 m and heads down a 2600 m vertical drop to Furi. Others start from Äschhorn and Alphubeljoch, Testa Grigia and Cervinia on the Italian side, Lysjoch (with a descent down the Grenz Glacier), and Tête de Valpelline. Ready for the Big Chill?
Lykke Stjernswärd
www.alpincenter-zermatt.ch
Goldbergh Luxury Sportswear
www.bayardsport.ch
A Japanese experience in the land of the Matterhorn The decor is simultaneously sober and refined, welcoming and relaxing. With its bay windows opening onto a snowy panorama, its vintage timber and supersized retro posters, Fuji of Zermatt, the Japanese restaurant at Albana Real Hotel, offers the best of two worlds. Whether with friends dining around the large teppanyaki griddle, or on a romantic visit to the sushi bar as a couple, you’ll adore the timeless Japanese food prepared before your eyes by incredible chefs! www.hotelalbanareal.com
trends design By_C h ri stian B u g n o n
UGG Australia inspired by Yosemite Australian shoemaker UGG draws inspiration for their Autumn/Winter collection from the stunning shades and landscapes of the Yosemite national park. Its influence can be seen throughout the range, whether it’s in the choice of materials, the colours, the prints or even its hallmark practical style, for ultimate comfort as you kick the leaves around on those autumn strolls. The women’s “Meadow” model gets the same treatment, with its fur lining spilling over the Chocolate version’s roll top. That’s surely reason enough to head to the hills! www.uggaustralia.com
BeoLab 90: the future of sound Beolab 90, launched in celebration of Bang & Olufsen’s 90th birthday, lives up to its track record for innovation and timeless design. This smart loudspeaker is a high-tech gem comprising a myriad of technologies for an unrivalled sound experience in all circumstances. High-end design and acoustics come together packaged in what might just be the most comprehensive and powerful digital speaker ever designed for home use.
Léman Caviar: the elegant art of penmanship Artisans at Caran d’Ache, which celebrated its centenary in 2015, looked to the endless palette of hues of Lake Geneva – Lac Léman in French – to create their elegant collection of the same name. The Caviar pen comes in a golden copper shade reminiscent of dawn light, coated in a clear gloss varnish with an engraved pattern evoking pearly sturgeon roe. An unusually refined writing instrument... with a lifetime warranty! www.carandache.com
www.bang-olufsen.com
QLOCKTWO - A TIME STATEMENT Two German designers, Marco Biegert and Andreas Funk, have reinvented time: forget numbers and hands - this clock tells the time in words! Available as a bracelet watch or a standalone clock, the concept is available in 19 languages, including French - but also Chinese and Arabic! A monumental 5.5m high Qclock stands proudly before the train station in Schwäbisch Gmünd, home to the company’s head office. www.qlocktwo.com Mountain Hardwear Downtown® Coat Whether you’ll be enjoying a bit of après ski or heading down town, this ultralight hooded jacket with its super warm Q.Shield® down insulation, which puffs up impressively, will keep you nice and toasty: it has a cosy fleece lining, with a faux fur trim. Style-wise, it also hits the mark with a neatly tailored waist. www.newrocksport.ch
BOUTIQUES GENEVE • GSTAAD • LUZERN ZURICH • ZERMATT
hublot.com
Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold. UNICO column-wheel chronograph. In-house Hublot movement. 72-hour power reserve. Case crafted using a scratch-resistant and non-oxidizing 18K gold alloy invented and developed by Hublot: Magic Gold. Interchangeable strap by a unique attachment. Limited edition to 250 pieces.
CLÉ DE CARTIER MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT 1847 MC
ESTABLISHED IN 1847, CARTIER CREATES EXCEPTIONAL WATCHES THAT COMBINE DARING DESIGN AND WATCHMAKING SAVOIR-FAIRE. CLÉ DE CARTIER OWES ITS NAME TO ITS UNIQUE CROWN. CONSIDERABLE MASTERY WAS REQUIRED TO CREATE FLUID LINES AND A HARMONIOUS ENSEMBLE, A TESTAMENT TO ACCURACY AND BALANCE. A NEW SHAPE IS BORN.