#helvet magazine Verbier | Hiver 2023-2024 | EN

Verbier Beneath the swirling snowflakes, a vibrant resort sits contentedly at the heart of one of the most beautiful freeride areas in the world.

WINTER 2023-2024

ALPINE EAGLE With its pure and sophisticated lines, Alpine Eagle offers a contemporary reinterpretation of one of our iconic creations. Its 41 mm case houses an automatic, chronometer-certified movement, the Chopard 01.01-C. Forged in Lucent Steel A223, an exclusive ultra-resistant metal resulting from four years of research and development, this exceptional timepiece, proudly developed and handcrafted by our artisans, showcases the full range of watchmaking skills cultivated within our Manufacture.

Editorial We begin by tipping our hats to Verbier, which has been deemed the “Best Ski Resort in Switzerland” at the 2023 World Ski Awards, claiming victory for the fifth time in six years.

Winter is finally here and there’s no better time to visit Verbier and the Val de Bagnes. The moment has come to take a deep breath of that fresh mountain air; to extract ourselves from the well-structured valleys and move towards the enchanting, snow covered trees and peaks, much like a flower that follows the sun. Just like sailors can’t resist the call of the open seas, those who know and love the summits are just as quick to heed the call of the mountains. It’s a familiar refrain, a siren’s song… the desire to be in Verbier takes hold, and with it the urge to taste the high-mountain peace that reigns and the small moments of joy — between chalets, snowflakes, and holiday garlands — that light the way.

You may not be able to buy happiness, but you can certainly buy a ski pass! And while it’s easy to add to one’s collection of accomplished slopes here (410 km of marked paths await), sooner or later, we all feel the call to freeride.

Off-piste, we don’t count the miles, rather we measure in doses of adrenaline, (unmarked) powder, and degrees of incline. Some would say that Verbier was (and is) the birthplace of freeriding in Europe — maybe even the world. So, it’s no small wonder that the Freeride World Tour finale takes place here among these mountains.

Is it because of the station’s strong sport community? Is it the pure, oxygen-rich mountain air? Or is it the exceptional panoramas; the spirit of the local residents; the pulsing rhythm of the nightlife? Whatever it is, the number of digital nomads and VIPs (Very Intelligent People) in Verbier only continues to increase, igniting new remote work opportunities and a host of infrastructural changes to facilitate this new way of life. This, in turn, has seen new ideas, services, and desires spring up around the station; new ingredients for the melting pot of energies and emotions that have always given this remote area its own unique flair. Welcome to winter wonderland.

Christian Bugnon Publisher & Editor-in-chief

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Contents

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40

62

Winter 2023-2024

Melody Sky

A British classic takes to the mountains

18

51

64

Views with a capital V

Winter 2023-2024

26

52

President of the municipality

The art of mountain celebrations

News

The 4 Vallées, supercharged

Portfolio

News

Bentley Geneva Winter Tour 2024

The Patrouille des Glaciers returns L’art du ski en haute altitude

Meet Christophe Maret

Kando Events

of Val de Bagnes

66

The Bec des Rosses Incredibly impressive

56

Experimental Chalet

The Cabane Mont Fort, revisited

70

Verbier’s trendiest HQ

A little piece of Alpine paradise

Surf the lagoon in Alaïa Bay

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61

76

Verbier’s gourmet secret

Winter 2023-2024

Watches & Shopping

30

La Table du Vingt-Deux

News

A tidal wave in Sion

Trends

Editing, administration and advertising District Creative Lab sàrl I Place de la Palud 23, 1003 Lausanne – Suisse I info@district.swiss I district.swiss I Tél : +41 21 312 41 41 Editor-in-chief Christian Bugnon : christian@district.swiss Project Manager Anne-Laure Bugnon : annelaure@district.swiss Writers Daniel Bauchervez, Christian Bugnon, Claude Hervé-Bazin, Isabelle Guignet, Laurent Grabet, Yannick Nardin Photographers David Carlier, Lévy Loye, Valérie Moulin, François Perraudin, Melody Sky, Raphaël Surmont, Christophe Voisin, Mike Wolf — Verbier Tourisme Layout District Creative Lab — Samuel Galley English translation Karen Cooper Photo-offset printing Images3 Advertising info@district.swiss Copyright © 2023-2024 helvet magazine. Unauthorized duplication/copying of all or any part of this magazine is strictly prohibited without the express prior permission of the rightful owners. Cover Raphaël Surmont | Next issue: Winter 2024-2025 I as part of the same collection, discover the helvet book: Verbier – helvet magazine Zermatt and Geneva | shop at helvet.swiss Living the high life !

GASTRONOMY

1,700 WINES AT 67 PALL MALL

EXTREME SPORTS

ACTIVITY

VERBIER: FREERIDING MECCA

SNOWSHOEING AND FONDUE AT LA TZOUMAZ

Freeriding is more at home than ever in Verbier. While anxiously awaiting the Freeride World Tour finale on the Bec des Rosses in March — which will conclude a season marked by the surprise addition of a new qualifying race in Georgia (in the Caucasus Mountains) — the station will also welcome Verbier Freeride Week from January 6-14. The schedule includes a Junior event and two Qualifying events, in addition to the return of a women-only event, fondly known as “Freerid’Her.” The following month, all eyes will be on the other side of the valley for the Bruson Freeride Week (February 1725) which includes three Qualifying events and one Junior event.

Created in London in 2015, and now with locations in Singapore and Verbier (Rue de Médran 15), 67 Pall Mall’s private clubs have a singular mission: to discover, share, and enjoy fine wines. All the fine wines, as there are 1,700 bottles to choose from on the menu and 350 of them are available by the glass! It’s the largest wine selection in Switzerland and includes a superb range of wines from Valais.

For non-members, the wine bar on the ground floor also offers around 50 different wine options, home brewed beers, and even a nice selection of rejuvenating regional dishes.

67pallmall.com

CULTURE

A NEW CREATIVE SPACE IN VERBIER

freerideworldtour.com

Step after step, your snowshoes leave their crisscross marks on the snow, marking your path. But what’s that mark? Is it a chamois or deer print?

Or is it a fox or boar print? Fret not, your guide will teach you how to tell the difference. Beginning on the outskirts of the Col du Planches (1,411 m) above Sembrancher, this 2.5-hour snow trek will help you unveil the deep secrets of the winter forest.

Sometimes done by foot if the weather obliges, the circuit always ends up back at the toasty chalet for a delicious fondue that you help prepare!

You can book your snowshoeing adventure for January 4 or February 14, 22, or 28 through online reservation.

nolimitsfreeride.ch

verbier.ch

3-dfoundation.com

Founded in 2010 by Anglo-Swiss artist Kiki Thompson (who is an art professor at the Verbier International School) and Swiss-American painter Madeleine Paternot (from New York), the Verbier 3-D Foundation has a mission of jointly promoting contemporary art and ecological awareness via a fantastic outdoor sculpture park.

Located between La Chaux and Les Ruinettes (at an altitude of 2,300 m), the foundation offers an annual residency and a new creative space in the ski station that features workshop classes for all ages, a workspace, exhibitions, and a boutique.

WINTER 2023-2024

HOSPITALITY

CULTURE

THE W: BEST SKI HOTEL IN THE WORLD X8

VERBIER, HQ FOR DIGITAL NOMADS

The W Verbier, which is among the first Alpine retreats one sees upon arriving in Verbier, just steps from the station’s main ski lifts, has once again beaten its record and been named the “World’s Best Ski Hotel” for the 8th (!!) consecutive time by the World Ski Awards. A remarkable feat, especially considering that this gorgeous ski retreat only opened a decade ago. One thing is certain: with its prestigious cocoon-like rooms that each feature a balcony and private fireplace, its wild après-ski celebrations, its benchmark restaurants, and its XXL spa that’s 1,300 m2 (with a cryotherapy cabin and private yoga space), the W is the place to be, now more than ever.

An exceptional Alpine setting and unrivalled quality of life… what more could one ask for? After hosting the first ever Remote Work Week late summer 2022, Verbier doubled down on its reputation as an ideal place to live and work by heading to London in late September. To champion the advantages of remote work in Verbier, they built temporary offices that transformed into bars and raclette restaurants in the evenings, and also promoted Verbier’s two co-working spaces: Mountain Hub (Rue de Médran 3) and Gotham (Rue de Médran 12), which have everything a digital nomad could need to work effectively.

The future of office working is here!

wverbier.com

gothamco.com

mountain-hub.com

AWARDS

VERBIER ON TOP OF THE PODIUM There’s no doubt that the World Ski Awards absolutely adore Verbier.

Held this year on November 13th, the 11th edition of the ceremony — which unites professionals from the global tourism, travel, and hospitality industries — piled heaps of (well deserved) praise on the Swiss ski station. The W Verbier Hotel won its 8th consecutive “Switzerland’s Best Ski Hotel” award and also won the award for the “World’s Best Ski Hotel,” while Verbier itself took gold and won “Switzerland’s Best Ski Resort” for the fifth time in six years!

Le Chalet d’Adrien was also a winner, designated “Switzerland’s Best Ski Boutique Hotel” for 2023. The awards are a true testament to the entire ski station’s commitment to high-quality tourism. Bravo! worldskiawards.com

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WINTER 2023-2024

MOBILITY

THE VERBIER EXPRESS TRAIN RETURNS

ACTIVITY

ACTIVITY

DOG SLEDDING WITH TAKITREK

TIME YOURSELF AT THE RACE EXPERIENCE

Jack London paved the way. When it comes to adventures across vast winterscapes, nothing can replace a dog sledding experience. Bidouille, Freya, Sherpa, Sparrow, Casper, Tara, Nox, Neiko, Zarko, Inook, Kaly, Bip, Luna, Solar, Seth — these are the dogs that make up Aline Luisier’s pack, which is ever growing.

This passionate musher, who’s based in Les Ruinettes, proposes a 5 km panoramic tour, which lasts about 45 minutes and offers stunning views of the Grand Combin Massif. Also on offer is a morning initiation for three people maximum, that includes contact with the dogs and learning to harness them and drive the pack. Reserve well in advance for holiday bookings.

Inaugurated two years ago in the upper section of La Tzoumaz — Savoleyres, near the blue run of Taillay, the Race Experience allows anyone of any level to challenge their friends (or strangers!) to a Giant Slalom course (which lasts about 35 seconds) on the permanently-installed clock. You can run the course as many times as you like, as you attempt to gain precious tenths of a second each time… It’s simple to get it going: simply push the button, listen anxiously for the five “beeps,” and then the clock will start ticking the moment you break through the gate, just like any official World Cup race! At the finish line, a screen will display your time, alongside the three other best times of the day.

chienstraineau.ch

verbier4vallees.ch

Overcome by a sudden desire to go skiing? If you live in Geneva or are passing through there, you’re in luck: the CFF has reopened the direct train line between Geneva airport and Le Châble, from where you can easily reach Verbier in just a few minutes aboard a gondola, for only 6 CHF. Now part of the public transportation network, the lift has extended operating hours and runs from 5:15-23:15. The train even runs on weekends and holidays. Even better, the CFF is offering a bundle package that includes up to 30% off the slopes in Verbier! sbb.ch

GASTRONOMIY

INTENSO TAKES THE PLACE OF LA NONNA Inside the Hôtel de Verbier, La Nonna has closed its doors and Intenso — which operates a handful of high-end Italian restaurants, caterers, and delicatessens in Switzerland — has now set up shop. Expect to find authentic Italian cuisine here that will delight your tastebuds, with a variety of dishes (including beef tartare, pizzas, pastas, risottos, and more) featuring Alba white truffle, meats and fish, a dessert menu to die for, and even a delightful selection of gluten-free pastas. Buon appetito! intensoitalianfood.ch/en

WINTER 2023-2024

GASTRONOMY

HOSPITALITY

REGION

LA CORDÉE SCORES 15 POINTS

N° 8 BED & BAR, A NEW 3-STAR HOTEL IN VERBIER

BRUSON EVOLVES

Romain Maillot, the Executive Chef of the Restaurant La Cordée for the past two years, can once again rest assured: the establishment scored 15 points (yet again) in the 2024 Gault&Millau Guide. It speaks wonders of this Reunion Island young chef, who has put in time at La Réserve in Geneva and in the kitchens of 3-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire (who he represented in Vietnam). The chef’s focus is always on a happy marriage of the world’s cuisines and influences of his native isle (achar, curcuma, vanilla honey) that are always strongly rooted in the Valais seasons and traditions. The famous gastronomy guide says to expect an expert balance of the “tempting and delicate, mischievous and subtle.” restaurantcordee.com

It’s hard to be more centrally located than this. At Place Centrale 8, in the former Central Hotel (!), Verbier now welcomes the new 3-star hotel N° 8 Bed & Bar, which is approachable, comfortable, and open year-round.

The newly renovated nine bedrooms are decently sized and all contain double beds, a bathtub, a Nespresso coffee machine, a fridge and a safe — and, of course, a mountain-view balcony for the lucky few! There’s also a communal ski room (complete with a boot dryer) and a bathroom that guests can use post-checkout. To really maximise the Verbier ambiance here, don’t forget to also visit the bar and enjoy some local wines and tapas! numero8verbier.ch/en

Last winter, the beloved La Pasay “buvette,” — with its panoramic terrace overlooking the Mont Blanc massif at 2,170 m, on the summit of the legendary La Pasay slope — passed the baton to a full-scale restaurant, which boasts regional dishes and local ingredients. The old 4-seater chairlift that used to take you there was also replaced by a brand new 6-seater lift that cuts the journey time in half. The lift was officially inaugurated this summer, marking a major upgrade for the Bruson sector, which is celebrated in the ski community for its authenticity. verbier4vallees.ch

HOSPITALITY

A CONTEMPORARY CHALET AND VALAIS WINES High up in Bruson, the Chalet Sëléna offers luxurious refuge within its elegant structure built of reclaimed timber, local stone, and slate. This new guesthouse features an independent, 2.5 room (50 m2) apartment that’s ideal for couples, which beautifully marries local materials, contemporary design, and beautiful vistas (that can be enjoyed from the living room in addition to the terrace). It’s the ideal place to soak in local tips and delightful wines from the owners, who offer local Valais wine tastings. A minimum stay of five nights is required. kairos-hospitality.ch/en kairos-products.ch

WINTER 2023-2024

REGION

SHOPPING

REGION

MONT FORT: MORE PANORAMIC THAN EVER

MICHAUD: FOR THE ULTIMATE GIFT

L’INKONTRO TO OPEN IN THE CENTER OF THE SKI DOMAIN

Brushing the highest point of the 4 Vallée ski domain, Mont Fort’s vertigoinducing panoramic terrace (3,330 m) now offers a fully unimpeded view of the Alpine skyline. Inaugurated last winter (just above the cable car stop), the terrace is reached by a metal elevator and offers a stunning 360° view that goes from the Matterhorn all the way to Mont Blanc, with the Grand Combin massif in the foreground and the shadowed folds of the valley below. It’s absolutely breath-taking.

Worth a visit! verbier4vallees.ch cabanemontfort.com

ACTIVITY

A SUPERLATIVE ZIPLINE In 2020, Mont Fort opened the world’s highest altitude zipline (even higher than the one in Val Thorens), which is also the longest zipline in the Alps!

Starting near the summit (3,330 m), it takes you over 1.4 km in one shot to the Col des Gentianes (2,947 m), reaching speeds of 100-130 km/h! If the adrenaline isn’t enough for you, don’t forget about the incredible view of the Grands Combines and the Mont Blanc massifs. Beneath your feet: white crests and the snow-covered Tortin glacier. Open to anyone ages 8+ (at least 1.20 m tall and weighing 30+ kilos).

Run by the same family for four generations, this Neuchâtel watch and jewellery boutique opened a branch store in 2011 in the heart of Verbier on the Rue de Médran. A wise business choice that also fuelled the passions of the young store owner, who learned to ski in Verbier and spent most of his winters there before making the move official. From the start, the boutique integrated Alpine elements with hints of contemporary design to create an ideal and super cosy lounge, in the spirit of many of the world’s greatest watch and jewellery brands. It didn’t take long for the VIPs and stars to start clamouring at the door — Rolex, Hublot, Breitling, Chopard, Zenith, Tudor, Messika… they’re all there.

The boutique also features an exceptional workshop for custom pieces. michaud.ch

In May, the first workers arrived at the construction site… on skis. The location of the former Chalet Carlsberg, at 2,500 m, with a sprawling terrace at the foot of Mont Gelé, will become L’Inkontro. The name, which translates as “I am going to meet” in the local dialect, is perfect for what will be the village square of the resort beginning this December. With its superb terrace and central location, it’s an ideal place where people can meet and socialize. The project is being managed by Fima Architecture, who have preserved part of the traditional, old structure and expertly merged it with new, contemporary additions.

The menu? Loaded with regional specialties and local ingredients, of course! verbier4vallees.ch

verbier4vallees.ch

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WINTER 2023-2024

GASTRONOMY

TARATATA MEETS GAULT&MILLAU Finally, Taratata has made it into the 2024 Gault&Millau Guide, with a score of 13 points. Located in the centre of town (Route des Creux 4), with its relaxed ambiance that’s surrounded by jungle-esque plants, wallpaper, and cushions, this basement locale (in what was the former Bristol Hotel nightclub) immediately sets itself apart. As soon as you walk in you are greeted by a butcher’s counter and their slogan “we can’t wait to meat you.” To drive it home, you can even choose your own knife from a large collection. Taratata is open Wednesday to Sunday from 17:00 to midnight.

The signature cocktails ooze exoticism, while the vast wine list bounces between Valais, France, and Italy. taratata-verbier.ch

NIGHTLIFE

CULTURE

THE SPOT FOR APRÈS-SKI

VERBIER FESTIVAL: BACKSTAGE WITH MARTIN T:SON ENGSTROEM

With the exception of a few rookies, everyone knows about Le Farinet: a hotel, restaurant, and the place to party in the heart of the station (Place Centrale 6). Day after day, it’s where you end up the moment you leave the slopes for après-ski, where the live music starts directly after happy hour (16-18:00) beneath the retractable roof, in an ambiance of total seduction and glamour. Dancing on the bar is inevitable and good spirits are abundant. The Lounge adds a smart touch under the watchful eyes of the house mixologists, between DJs and open fires, while The South Bar rages in retro animal prints and Japanese-tattoo-style artwork that covers the ceilings. At midnight, instead of going home, Cinderella pushes the tables back to make space for the dance floor, which goes ‘til dawn. hotelfarinet.com

Martin T:son Engstroem is one of the greatest musical figures of our times.

An agent, friend, and mentor to some of the greatest classical musicians on the planet, the Swedish musician fell in love with Verbier’s mountains when he visited the area in the 1980s. He hit gold when he founded Verbier Festival, which combines his decades of experience with master classes for stars of the music world and young prodigies, all set beneath the Alpine skies. To mark the 30th anniversary of the event, Martin Engstroem agreed (for the first time ever) to let biographer Bertrand Dermoncourt go behind the scenes and write a book, From Stockholm to Verbier: A life for music, published by Actes Sud. actes-sud.fr/catalogue/musique/martin-engstroem

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The 4 Vallées, supercharged Views with a capital V Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photos Raphaël Surmont

The Piste de l’Ours, the red run of La Pasay, the black run of Mont Fort, the yellow runs of Mont Gelé, the wild faces of the Bec des Rosses that only expert freeriders dare attempt… The 4 Vallées ski area and its vast offpiste kingdom are a fast track to adventure.

Variable! Bagnes, Arbi, Nendaz, Hérémence: four key valleys. A revered quartet, interconnected by six complimentary ski resorts that have been famous since the roaring twenties, each with distinct vision, values, and advantages. In the middle, in the spotlight, is Verbier, uncontested. There’s also Bruson with its shaded forests, the queen of snowy days; La Tzoumaz for experienced sledders; Nendaz and Veysonnaz with their family-friendly ambiance; and Thyon for skiers, with its legendary Alpine Ski World Cup slope the Piste de l’Ours.

Vertigo-inducing! What a view… Once you’ve risen above the green pine forests, the lifts take you into the pristine high-mountain air and you see the snow-covered lands below.

Here, silence reigns, only interrupted by the subtle shake of

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Moments before dawn, the crest of Mont Rogneux is bathed in pink light.

In the background, the Grand Laget peak is almost already in the shadows.

the lift as it passes through the pylons. Your eyes flit from one vertical Alpine peak to another. The Combins, with their snow-covered peaks, rise up in the distance. If the weather is just right, the Weisshorn (4,505 m), the pyramid of the Dent Blanche (4,357 m), the Matterhorn (4,478 m), and the Dent d’Hérens (4,171 m) dot the eastern horizon, with Mont Blanc to the west. It’s enough to make your head spin.

Valiant! From one lift to another, the slopes of every level weave their intricate web over 410 km revealing the 4 Vallée ski domain, the largest ski area within Switzerland and the third largest in all of Europe. Verbier is a breeding ground for champions, and tensions often reach a breaking point each winter, when the world’s best talents meet on the Bec

des Rosses for the finale of the Freeride World Tour. This is where freeride skiing truly shines, supercharged by the 4 Vallées, which beckons skiers to courageously carve into the untouched hillsides, or leave their mark on the designated (but just as wild) yellow slopes.

Venerable! From the top of Mont Fort (the local’s Everest at 3,330 m), in the enchanting high mountain atmosphere, the view from the new panoramic platform is (of course) almost absurdly spectacular. And the air is brisk, as the connected zipline will attest: the highest and longest (1.4 km) in the Alps, open year-round, reaching maximum speeds of 130 km/h. But rest assured, observation and contemplation are just as welcome here.

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Meet Christophe Maret President of the municipality of Val de Bagnes Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photos Valérie Moulin | Raphaël Surmont

In 2021, Bagnes and Vollèges merged to create the municipality of Val de Bagnes, which regroups 25 distinctive villages and hamlets, including Verbier.

At the helm is Christophe Maret, who shares the municipality’s political stakes, challenges, and goals with helvet.

Spread over 302 km2, Val de Bagnes is one of the biggest municipalities in Switzerland — bigger than the cantons of Zug, Geneva, or even Schaffhouse! The municipality surrounded by stately Alpine summits, rubs shoulders with the Valais Alps from the Grand Combin (4,314 m) to Mont Fort (3,330 m), all the way to the Italian border, upstream of the Mauvoisin Dam and reservoir. It’s a vast territory that’s both spirited and unspoilt.

A 10-YEAR MASTERPLAN The numbers are in. Although agriculture holds an important place in the municipality, along with hydraulic energy, “tourism is the main driver of our economy,” emphasizes President Maret. This lends itself to construction and “allows us to invest in and develop other key business sectors.” The main challenge lies in keeping extensive competition in check. The power of the area — and of Verbier in particular — is its draw as a winter destination, when 70% of the area’s vacationists choose to visit. The goal is to develop the rest of the calendar year to “become a model four-season mountain destination for sustainable tourism.”

Among the biggest projects that are already approved and/or underway are: the development of biking in the area, the renovation of Verbier’s sports centre (following a large fire), cultural financing, and the construction of an earthen dam in La Chaux to guarantee Verbier’s water supply and artificial snow.

The resulting reservoir will also serve as a tourist destination.

THE BIG QUESTIONS ON THE AGENDA Environmental changes, demographic evolution, developments in digitalisation and transportation, the quality of the visitor experience, the quality of life for inhabitants, and an emphasis on the local economy… all of these factors play an important role in the overall picture, and each is studied and weighed when making decisions. Since 2021, environmentalism has become part of the municipality’s legislature with a nominated delegate for sustainable

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Although only a third of the population of the municipality of Val de Bagnes (including many foreigners), Verbier is the main touristic and economic driver.

development, who’s in charge of supervising both internal and external projects. Numerous environmental measures have been adopted: the banning of pesticides along the roadways and the shifting of embankment cuttings to encourage biodiversity; the eradication of invasive species; the creation of a forest care and maintenance trust; the use of local ingredients in school meals; and the inauguration of a new sorting and recycling centre. The municipality has also contributed financially to Blue Ark (blueark.ch), a hub of innovation for water and natural resources management, including improving efficiencies across energy production and consumption. Energy has become an extremely relevant topic for the municipality, which must manage explosive growth during the winter season, when the local population swells to 50,000 people, almost five times its usual size.

“We have to find ways to make it work, and we do,” said Christophe Maret.

Another major topic for the municipality is building policy.

New structures, super chalets, and renovations have been a boon for the construction industry in recent years. But there’s talk of pausing some of that activity, especially in light of recent changes to the Land Use Planning Act, which aim to better ensure economical land use. A true challenge according to Christophe Maret, who says “studies predict a 20% increase in population, which corresponds to around 600 new housing units.” Security, stability, health, and services (including fiscal attractions for foreigners) are all reasons why people choose to move to Val de Bagnes, and they show no signs of slowing.

A MODEL FOR THE FUTURE? The global pandemic only served to reinforce the appeal of beautifully preserved natural environments, here in Val de Bagnes more so than anywhere else. Numerous regular visitors (with high buying power) and digital nomads took the leap and made Verbier, or one of its sister sub-stations, their homebase for remote work. “It’s totally possible to work remotely from the mountains and enjoy an excellent quality of life,” adds President Maret. It’s also great for the local economy, as services for this type of resident (private banks, co-working spaces, etc) continue to thrive. The Office of Tourism is also actively promoting the municipality along these same lines and is hosting a remote working event this fall, complete with musicians, chefs, sommeliers, hoteliers and… locally made cheeses, of course!

While Switzerland accounts for the majority of visitors, Great Britain is second on the list and accounts for a full quarter of all visitors in Val de Bagnes. That is followed (far behind) by France (9%) and the Benelux Union (8%), and then by Scandinavia and North America (each of which account for 6% of visitors). By the end of 2022, visitor numbers hadn’t fully returned to their 2019 levels (which was a record year), but they are currently on track to do so for 2023. valdebagnes.ch programme.valdebagnes.ch

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Experimental Chalet Verbier’s trendiest HQ Text Daniel Bauchervez Photos Experimental Chalet

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First there was Paris, New York, and London, much like a fashion show. Then Ibiza, Minorca, Venice, Barritz, and Cannes, for a touch of glamour. And Verbier, of course, where the former Nevaï Hotel, located in the heart of the city, has now become the hip new spot in town where cocktail culture meets the legendary Farm Club.

Architect Fabrizio Casiraghi drew much of his inspiration from the Italian seaside resorts of the 1950s.

The Experimental Group was founded in Paris, well before there were any hotel businesses in the world’s trendiest locations. The company’s credo is to always create an intimate atmosphere that highlights carefully selected local ingredients, built around a central bar.

The Experimental Chalet stays true to the group’s essence while also embracing iconic mountain style, brought to life at the hotel through stunning interior design by Fabrizio Casiraghi. Casiraghi brings his unique interpretation of different eras and styles to life with simple sophistication and an expert dash of boldness.

This gorgeous Alpine resort features 37 rooms and 2 suites (with a private jacuzzi) that gaze upon the Alps, in the group’s iconic style that embraces both simplicity and a zest for life. Expect to find varnished wood with retro rounded corners, hints of gold, neo-vintage rotary phones, and delightfully kitsch Alpine landscape paintings on the walls (or a life-sized version from a private terrace for the lucky few)… all intentionally designed to ignite a smile.

THE TOUCH OF A FAMOUS FRENCH CHEF The restaurant is the colour of melting caramel and harkens back to the days of luxury ocean liners, featuring moulded fireplaces and antler light fixtures. The menu was designed by starred Parisian chef Gregory Marchand, the owner of Frenchie (which — fun fact — is the nickname Jamie Oliver gave Marchand when the two of them worked together in London).

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Inviting retro touches throughout the bedrooms, bathrooms, restaurant, and bar take you on a journey back in time.

While the cheeses, dried meats, and sausages are distinctly from the Canton of Vaud, the menu draws inspiration from around the world. Exotic horizons and international influences come alive through dishes with kumquats, yuzu koshō, umami-rich dashi butter, and calamondins (aka Philippine limes). Expect your tastebuds to be delighted!

THE ART OF LIVING, EXPERIMENTAL’S WAY And of course, who can forget the bar at the very heart of the building. Experimental’s roots began around a few cocktails, at a time when Paris had just begun to embrace the art of mixology. Enjoy a signature cocktail menu that delights the senses, notably with a blend of Morand abricontine (apricot brandy) and vodka, or Le Bitter des Diablerets (alpine herbal liqueur) and whiskey.

Downstairs, the famous Farm Club (which opened in 1971) continues to provide legendary nightlife, with parties that are simultaneously elegant and eccentric. Everyone, from Diana Ross to David Bowie to James Blunt, has step foot in here and for good reason!

And of course, you can leave any of your worries or tensions behind at the hotel’s spa, which is managed in collaboration with Biologique Recherche — experts in fragrance-free products with biotechnological or natural active ingredients.

Every treatment here begins with a fully customized diagnostic session, and offerings include hot volcanic stone massages (enjoyed solo or as a couple), body and facial detoxifying, and more. experimentalchalet.com

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La Table du

22 Verbier’s gourmet secret Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photos Christophe Voisin

Hidden behind a bookshelf at the back of Le Crock No Name awaits La Table du Vingt-Deux, which proposes an innovative and refined finedining menu in a speakeasy setting. It’s an offthe-record address that’s already cherished by those “in the know.”

Taking centre stage is Le Crock; Le Crock No Name to be precise, an excellent bar that’s known for one of its mixologists, Thibaut (formerly a carpenter!), winning the Verbier Bar Challenge in 2023 - despite being up against eight other (almost as) highly skilled competitors. Technique, creativity, and style won gold for Thibaut, who is an expert at capturing Verbier’s unique mix of expertise, etiquette, and relaxation, spiced up with a dash of cool attitude. Start your night off here with a curated selection of cocktails and an array of gourmet tapas that are both hyper local and globally cosmopolitan.

THE SECRET GETS OUT A few years ago, the boss, Pierre Jean Leclercq, acquired a room located behind the bar, which was a former tattoo parlour. Pierre Jean received his diploma in hospitality in Belgium and he liked to cook for his friends and staff, but he wasn’t quite sure what to do with the extra (but tiny) space. After giving it some thought, he decided to create an intimate table d’hôtes inspired by American speakeasys, which proliferated in the USA during prohibition. The wall that separated the two buildings was modified to create a hidden door, encased in a bookshelf, to complete the perfect speakeasy effect.

The name came about because the address is 22 rue des Creux, and the room seats 22 people. Inside, the open kitchen originally faced two large tables, which were later split into smaller tables for more intimacy. The venue has always served a prix fixe menu that revolves around local ingredients to minimize its carbon footprint.

Jackpot. The secret about La Table du Vingt-Deux (22) spread like wildfire. Soon guest chefs were invited to take part, like Mirto Marchesi, a friend who earned a Michelin

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Selected for the Michelin Guide and highly rated by Gault&Millau, 22 rose to fame largely thanks to young chef Thomas Vado.

star as chef at Chalet d’Adrien; or Adam Bateman, from Sir Richard Branson’s Verbier super chalet the Lodge; or even Thomas Vado, from Taratata (which scored highly with Gault&Millau), who recently put La Table du 22 on the Michelin Guide’s radar. Thomas, who is from Nice and who also occasionally DJs, only travels to select locations: Saint-Paul-de-Vence with starred chef Alain LLorca; Courchevel; Ibiza; the Beau-Rivage Palace in Lausanne; and the W Hotel in Verbier… nothing but beautiful places with beautiful people and top-of-the-line establishments.

A MAXIM OF PROXIMITY The speakeasy is known for its discretion and yet there’s nothing awkward about 22. The chef works right in front of your eyes, in an ambiance that is sometimes lively, sometimes romantic, but always friendly and set to the timing of the six-course meal. “Two pre-starters, two appetizers, plus a main course, dessert, and a cheese option,” explains Pierre Jean. In the kitchen, Thomas evokes his Mediterranean origins, with a personal preference for fish and vegetables.

“I love making vegetables shine,” confesses the chef, who willingly adapts the menu for vegetarians.

At La Table du Vingt-Deux, most of the ingredients are from Switzerland and Valais: caviar and sustainably farmed blue

shrimp from Rheinfelden, and butter and cheese from the Laiterie de Verbier and the Fromathèque de Martigny. When it comes to wines, the restaurant’s wine list leans towards Fully and Saint-Pierre-de-Clages. One of their favourites is La Cave Saint-Ours, which is “100% organic, using old vines, and which produces only 300 bottles a year of Petite Arvine. One of the things I’m passionate about and love about my job is finding small wine producers who create exceptional products,” adds Pierre Jean.

The menu changes every two to three weeks. It’s the perfect excuse for winter visitors to come back every three weeks, so as not to miss a single menu variation. The only downside is that the establishment is almost always fully booked, so plan to reserve at least one month in advance… unless you get extra lucky because Pierre Jean happened to set aside a few tables for VIP walk-ins. Regardless, the regulars know to be ready to make reservations as soon as bookings open in early November and again in early June.

Le Crock No Name is open Tuesday to Sunday; La Table du Vingt-Deux is open Wednesday to Sunday from 19:00 to midnight. crock.ch

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Melody Sky A touch of wonder in a brutal world Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photos Melody Sky

In sheets of ice and immaculate snow crust, the Grand Combin’s glaciers unfold into the valley nooks below.

Above: Expedition on the Trient Glacier, armed with crampons and a pickaxe.

Right: The snow-capped plateau of the Petit Combin before skiing down.

Lining the French border, the Aiguille d’Argentière (left) and the Aiguille du Chardonnet (right) mark the western edge of the Val Feret.

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Opposite page: The turquoise pearl of the Mauvoisin Dam. Above: Verbier’s snow-covered chalets and pine trees: a perfect winter.

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As the gorgeous gateway to the 4 Vallées ski domain, La Chaux Express ski lift reaches 2,484m in just six minutes.

Melody Sky’s photos are everywhere in Verbier. In 20 years, the young Scot has carved out a considerable niche with her powerful images that evoke that eternal Alpine spirit. From Scotland to Switzerland, and almost everywhere in between, this nature-driven photographer lives for adventure.

She took her first photo when she was just four years old and had her first camera by age nine. For as long as she can remember, Melody Sky has loved pressing the shutter and capturing images. With a mother who loved photography and a father who loved the outdoors, her path as an adventurer-photographer was practically predestined, with only a few twists and turns. She trained as a marine biologist and a diving instructor, then was an ice diving guide at Lac de Tignes (FRA) until she had her first taste of the mountains and never looked back (an irony that is not lost on her, as she left her native Scotland to seek milder climates). A few years later, Melody arrived in Verbier, Australian diploma in hand, as a filmmaker specialized in the outdoors.

EXPLORER AND DREAMER As a female filmmaker and adventure photographer, Melody already stands out from the crowd. Add to that the fact that she’s a diver, rock climber, skier, and cyclist, always comfortable and ever alert, ready to skilfully jump from one terrain to another, and you start to understand how special she truly is. “I’m not an athlete,” she says, “but I’m careful about never slowing down the pros,” all while capturing unforgettable images and carrying at least 13-15 kilos of equipment on her back. Is it tough being a woman in her field? “It can actually work in our favour to help lower testosterone levels, just a little,” she says with a laugh. “But on every expedition that I’ve been part of, I’ve always been sure to carry my own weight,” she added.

“The mountains are so expansive, powerful, grandiose, beautiful, and ever-changing with the weather and light.

I love sunrise and sunset. I love looking at the sky, filled with stars. Taking a step away from our manmade world reminds me how small I really am and how vulnerable our

existence is when we’re surrounded by the vast expanse of the natural world.” Melody’s words perfectly reflect her work. She’s someone who actually walks the walk and has a ripple effect on others, as she shines a light on beauty and inspiration, igniting a desire to explore.

THE NEXT EVOLUTION For Melody, photography is a voyage, not a destination. Her favourite photo? “It hasn’t been taken yet.” But in her quest to find it, the projects are lining up, currently being driven by constraints on global energy and travel and her desire to reduce her carbon footprint. Fewer helicopters, fewer planes. More boats, more of Switzerland. The balance isn’t always clear cut, but abandoning her work simply isn’t an option. “The world would just be so different if we stayed in one place. We have to question our perspectives and the way we live.” She’s also driven by a desire to share her experiences in a constructive way. This vision comes to life through photography workshops she hosts in Kenya, where she teaches the local people of the Masai Mara photography as a way to share their unique perspectives, and in Verbier, where she leads adventure workshops in collaboration with Basecamp Events and a slew of scientists and experts (glaciologists, astronomers) who bring a deeper understanding of the natural world to every photography outing.

After 20 years in Verbier, most of which were spent living there fulltime, Melody says she’s home. “Recently, in London, I was speaking French with some Parisians who heard my accent and asked me where in Switzerland I was from.

Apparently, I have a local accent now,” she laughed, “and I couldn’t be more proud.” melodysky.com

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Kando Events The art of mountain celebrations Text Isabelle Guignet Photos Kando | Alpimages

Founded in 2008 by Nicky ffrench Blake, Kando Events specializes in sculpting custom tables and benches out of snow.

When the ordinary just won’t cut it, look no further than Kando Events. This Verbier event company specializes in creating unforgettable memories in beautiful Alpine surroundings. From weddings on a mountain peak, to birthdays, raves, or corporate events in the snow, anything is possible.

Switzerland is a peaceful haven, its mountains a source of inspiration, the contemporary architecture of its most beautiful resorts a unique place where yesterday meets tomorrow.

Experience the quintessential Val de Bagnes and discover its breathtaking landscapes, winter and summer alike, through 288 exceptionally illustrated pages. Welcome to Verbier.

You can order your copy on helvet.swiss for CHF 109.- (including shipping)

living the high life

Champagne bars and DJs, romantic dinners, raves, or even fireside parties; anything is possible on the beautiful Swiss mountain summits.

It was 15 years ago, in 2007, when Nicky ffrench Blake returned to Verbier (her favourite ski resort) for a ski season. Here the slopes, mountains, and ambiance always oscillate between authentically Swiss and internationally chic. She had spent the previous eight years of her events career based in London, where she organized charity galas, large sporting events, and corporate gigs. Verbier had none of that. So, she seized the opportunity to launch her own events company, which today offers bespoke, luxury event services immersed in Swiss nature.

JOB TITLE: HAPPINESS CREATOR What Nicky loves above all is what she calls “the wow factor:” that moment when the surprise finally comes to life, complete with the extravagant décor that was custom made for the occasion. Her signature offering are custom bars and tables made of ice or snow- ultra instagrammable and oh so romantic. “Our production team, who are mostly from Sweden, build them onsite, adapting to the snow conditions at the time of build,” explained Nicky. It takes a team of at least 10 people, working two and a half days to build a single table and bar out of snow! Working with ice is even more complicated. Extremely heavy blocks, about 1.5 m by 50 cm, are transported first by cable car and then by snowmobile to the event site (which is done around 60 times each year for various events). They are then fused together to form giant blocks, carefully sculpted with a chainsaw and then meticulously polished. “Our first high altitude rave, Snowstock, took place in 2013, and it’s still one of the most amazing events we’ve done in my eyes,” said Nicky. “Our

clients arrived and were welcomed into a phantasmagoric ice universe, where the bar and sushi tables were sculpted to perfection and contained real flowers embedded in the ice.”

Nicky smiled as she fondly recalled her early days with the company, when she worked with the bare minimum: a few champagne flutes, two shovels, and a couple of Ikea bags for transporting supplies.

Today, luxurious parties in tipis complete with wood-burning stoves, sheepskins, and deer hides; snowshoeing expeditions beneath the stars and a 5-star fondue dinner; helicopter picnics with a private huntsman chef; ski adventure weddings… you name it, Kando Events has you covered.

THE MOUNTAINS ON THE HORIZON You may be wondering who Kando Events caters to, but Nicky won’t reveal any secrets and is known for her discretion. One thing is certain: many of them are either part of the upper echelons of high finance or are (very) large corporations.

With first-hand experience of the glaciers retreating, Kando Events is always looking for ways to be respectful towards nature. “Nature is at the heart and soul of everything we do, so being conscious of our environment is one of our fundamental values,” explained Nicky. She aims to inspire and influence clients and suppliers along the way, and even launched the Kando Good foundation to support causes close to her heart — starting with mountain preservation. kandoverbierevents.com

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The Cabane Mont Fort, revisited A little piece of Alpine paradise Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photos Verbier Tourisme

Of the 153 Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) cabins located in Valais, Mont Fort is one of the most iconic; celebrated for its warm welcome, delicious food, and spectacular view of the Grand Combin and Mont Blanc massifs. This spring, after 40 years of loyal service, the Bruchez couple will be retiring. We sat down with the new guardians, Audrey Galas and Fabien Navilloux.

The Cabane Mont Fort was inaugurated in 1925 (the first in the region!) by the Jaman section of the Swiss Alpine Club, after the destruction of the Barberine cabin when the dam was built.

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The cabin is perched on a ledge with a gorgeous panoramic view of the Grand Combin massif, and the terrace offers a front row seat.

“It’s much harder to leave than it is to access,” say the regulars… Poised atop the alpine hill of La Chaux at 2,457 m (only 1.5 hrs from the gondola), with one of the most incredible panoramic views of the Alps, the Cabane Mont Fort is getting ready to celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2025.

The first in the region, it opened a relatively unknown section of the Valais Alps to hikers and mountain lovers alike.

While there are no 4,000 m summits nearby, there are an abundance of sparkling mountain peaks, soon-to-be easily accessible along the Haute Route Chamonix-Zermatt and the Sentier des Chamois trail.

THE BRUCHEZ ERA In 1983, high-altitude mountain guide Daniel Bruchez and his wife Frances moved into the cabin, kicking off the start of a 40-year love story. It was all built on the back of a man — “and a woman!” specified the couple, in reference to the 50-100 kilos of food and supplies they carried to the cabin every day to survive so remotely. They had gas, but no electricity and no sewage system. The couple’s three children grew up in rustic, mountain conditions, with occasional baths being taken in the sink. In 2001, the cabin was split, and private rooms with heating and showers were added to the existing dormitory accommodations. What luxury! As time passed, the cabin grew in popularity, and now attracts almost 600 visitors a day.

A CABIN FIT FOR THE 21ST CENTURY Knowing their retirement approached, the SAC put out a call for new guardians. Fabien Navilloux, who was a regular, and his companion Audrey Galas, applied with few expectations.

He works for Téléverbier helping produce artificial snow and she is a culinary school graduate — which is actually the perfectly paired profile for the job — along with their two young children (ages 4 and 4 months) who will bring the cabin to life.

Their first task is to bring the cabin up to modern (and sustainability-forward) standards, which is the perfect opportunity for a host of improvements, including a brand-new kitchen and bar, renovated private rooms, new bedding all around, a replacement terrace, and the installation of a system for treating and using mountain water.

THE HIGHEST-BAKED BREAD IN SWITZERLAND Restaurant and dining concepts have also evolved over time.

To avoid the long wait time that’s typical of service counter orders, the young couple have decided to shift to table service. The counter window will now be dedicated to snack and to-go orders, with tables on the side of the cabin available for dining. The sit-down options will include all the expected and iconic classics, like fondues, rösti, and croûtes au fromage, but the menu also takes on a new homemade approach, featuring local ingredients, new signature dishes, pastas, lasagnes, and — even more surprisingly — breads and pastries made onsite by a real pastry chef! “It might be the highest-baked bread in Switzerland,” laughed Audrey… along with the mouth-watering promise of freshly baked croissants for breakfast!

In parallel, Audrey (who’s a long-time supporter of touring artists) plans to animate the cabin with special events, parties, and themed dinners. Everything’s still being discussed, but there’s rumours of astronomers, storytellers, and musicians. Some may even be there for the official inauguration in March 2024… even if the cabin will already be open as of December 2023 (until mid-May 2024). cabanemontfort.com

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Bentley Geneva Winter Tour 2024 A British classic takes to the mountains Text Daniel Bauchervez Photo Bentley Motors

Who hasn’t dreamt of sliding behind the wheel of a Bentley each morning? If you’ve ever wanted to run your hands over those smooth leather seats and the fine wood dashboard, your dreams may soon become a reality. This winter, Bentley Geneva is bringing their test drives to Switzerland’s most prestigious ski resorts.

With a rich racing history that harks back to the Roaring Twenties and an unwavering passion for detail, Bentley still stands by W.O. Bentley’s iconic vision: “to build a fast car, a good car, the best in its class.” The British company, now more than ever, is known for its tradition, know-how, and customised vehicles. The cost of a Bentley (while certainly high) encompasses the brand’s patience, practised gestures, and rigorous respect for tradition that expertly harmonizes with the latest technologies.

In the nearly 100-year-old brick building of the Crewe Bentley factory in northern England (close to Manchester), automations take a back seat to a good eye and keen perception. Judging the grain quality of fine wood or spotting possible defects in the leather — which is carefully sourced from northern European farms that don’t use barbed wire — requires a human eye (no machine could do it), meaning that each of the Bentley artisans in the production line adds their unique touch to the final product. A recipe for success: the brand sold more cars in 2022 than ever before.

A WINTER TOUR IN CRANS-MONTANA, GSTAAD AND VERBIER The only real way to properly experience a Bentley is to ride in one. Geneva is home to the brand’s only Swiss garage, but that’s changing this winter as the Bentley Geneva team temporarily relocates to Switzerland’s most

beautiful Alpine roads in search of thrilling fresh experiences and new customers. The Bentley Winter Tour consists of two-day stopovers in Crans-Montana (January), Gstaad (February), and Verbier (March), to share the Bentley spirit and values with the beauty, luxury, and elegance of these iconic Swiss ski resorts. It’s a chance for new audiences to feel, breathe in, and live the otherwise inconceivably high quality of a Bentley vehicle in all its essence.

Many of the company’s most successful models will be available to test drive: the legendary Continental GT and GTC, which are inextricably linked to the brand; the impressive 5.31 m Flying Spur, which feels like being immersed in a stately lounge; and even the recent Bentayga (EWB and the classic configuration), aka “the most luxurious SUV in the world,” available in legendary W12, V8 or hybrid models until the brand’s first fully-electric vehicle is released next year (Bentley aims to be carbon neutral by 2030). The driving routes have been carefully drawn out to highlight the exceptional qualities of these automotive masterpieces. Expect unparalleled comfort, adaptability, power, and manoeuvrability, even in demanding winter conditions. To make an appointment, simply scan a QR code — proof that steadfast tradition and new technologies can go hand-in-hand. geneve.bentleymotors.com

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The Patrouille des Glaciers returns The art of high-altitude skiing Text Daniel Bauchervez Photo François Perraudin

The 24th edition of the most celebrated (biennial) ski mountaineering race returns April 15-21, 2024, linking Zermatt (or Arolla) and Verbier. The new brigade commander Christian Sieber sat down with helvet to discuss how the event has evolved over time.

Three people roped together traverse 53 km at high-altitude — the equivalent of 110 km — tackling 4,386 m of altitude increase with skis on their feet. Meet the Patrouille des Glaciers (PdG), an event that’s (in)famous for the sweat, tenacity, exhaustion, solidarity, and emotions it requires.

The race was the brainchild of two 10th Mountain Brigade Captains from Valais: Roger Bonvin (future Federal Councillor and President of the Confederation) and Rodolphe Tissières (future Téléverbier SA founder). It was 1943, and they wanted to test the capacity of their men to defend the country’s highest borders in the midst of WWII. They chose the Haute Route course — going from Zermatt to Verbier and which normally takes four days — as the challenge to be completed in one go. The event ran successfully until 1949, when a three-person patrol tragically died, resulting in a federal ban for the next 30 years. Then, in 1984, the event was revived, opened to civilians (opened to women in 1986) and has been evolving dramatically ever since. In 1944, the winning team took 13 hours to complete the course. The current record (set in 2018 by an Italian patrol) stands at a mere 5 hours, 35 minutes, and 27 seconds.

“ACHIEVE GREATER HEIGHTS TOGETHER” The Patrouille des Glaciers is now part of the Swiss ski mountaineering championships and the long-distance world championships, which “reinforces its iconic status as one of the most prestigious races in the world in this discipline,” emphasizes the new PdG brigade commander, Christian Sieber.

Taking over from Colonel Schwery (the regional chief of police for Mittelland Emmental Haute-Argovie) as of 2023, Commander Sieber says it is an honour to be stepping into

this role. “As someone from Bernese Seeland, the mountains have always been part of my life. I look forward to overseeing this prestigious event and I feel both excited and determined. My primary objective is to ensure safety and satisfaction for participants. I hope the event will be a success for every one of our patrols and a tribute to their exceptional endurance and dedication. The slogan for the 2024 edition of the event is “Achieve Greater Heights Together,” which perfectly illustrates the spirit of unity that both drives and transcends this exceptional race.”

A NEW ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE Over time, the PdG has grown in scale. At least 1,600 military members and 100 volunteers are enlisted every year to support the race. The 2024 edition also marks the start of a new organisational structure, which sees the army collaborating with the new Patrouille des Glaciers Foundation, led by the former Chief of the Armed Forces, Lieutenant General Philippe Rebord, and operating under the Canton of Valais. The army is responsible for the event’s organization and implementation, while the foundation coordinates PdG promotion and marketing. “A collaboration that has already been constructive and positive since the planning stages,” says Brigadier General Sieber.

Regarding other updates, Commander Sieber adds: “There have been no other major changes since the 2022 edition.

We are just constantly working to improve the experience for patrols and the public, while minimizing our impact on the environment.” Proof that, even though the race is celebrating the 40th anniversary of its revival, modesty is still a driving force for the PdG. pdg.ch

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The Bec des Rosses Incredibly impressive Text Daniel Bauchervez Photos David Carlier / Lévy Loye

Every freerider has dreamt of it: someday tracing their track across freshly fallen snow on the north face of this iconic summit. Crowning the Verbier skyline, between the Val de Bagnes and Mont Fort, awaits the legendary Bec des Rosses.

The spectacular Bec des Rosses, with the Mont Blanc Massif in the background and a sea of clouds between them.

The Bec des Rosses is more often seen from below than from above; the “no man’s land” of Verbier; the promised land. One wide face streaked with crazy looking lines, the other best discovered from La Chaux or Mont Gelé, while hoping to catch a glimpse of the few brightly coloured apocalyptic freeriders who are brave enough to give it a go.

At 3,223 m, it’s certainly not the Himalayas, and yet… crowning the Glacier de La Chaux, its triangular peak feels a bit like the Alpine version of Everest: intimidating to say the least. The approach isn’t too difficult. There’s no lift, but the Col des Gentianes cable car isn’t too far away.

The eastern side reveals itself soon enough, composed of scree and cumbersome rocks in the summer months, and a collection of other skiers’ tracks in the winter months.

It’s one hell of a mountain!

You move from one pile of rocks to the next highest pile of rocks, and before you know it you’ve reached the summit, which promises 360° views of the Valais Alps. Below, the mountain face unfolds in rocky jolts of chasms and vertical drops. The air is thin, and this is when the adrenaline starts to kick in.

A MOUNTAIN OF SUPERLATIVES Which line to choose? The classic Dog Leg Couloir? Or perhaps the Central Couloir, which drops off on the wide, horizontal Hollywood Cliff? Or maybe the right side of the face, which (falsely) appears less perilous? Whatever you choose, this mountain is a constant challenge of dead ends, blind jumps, and invisible landings, always combined with the potential of unseen treacherous rocks that lurk beneath the snow. While the pros (seem to) launch themselves into the abyss without a second thought, others overthink it three times over. The truth is, there’s no shame to be had when facing “The Bec.” Not everyone is Xavier De Le Rue or Aurélien Ducroz, just a few of the multi-winners (in snowboard and ski) of the revered Xtreme Verbier, which returns to the mountain face each March to close out the season of the annual Freeride World Tour.

On the Bec des Rosses every descent is unique. Here, more so than anywhere else, nature has the final say and the conditions are always fluctuating. And whether you take it from the summit or begin at a lower start gate, the 40-60° degree steepness is guaranteed to keep you on the edge of your seat. On occasion, the event has been cancelled because of poor weather conditions (like in 2023), but that only serves to reinforce the legend of this great, high-altitude mountain: a challenge to be conquered. freerideworldtour.com

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A tidal wave in Sion Surf the lagoon in Alaïa Bay Text Laurent Grabet Photos Mike Wolf

Launched in the Rhône valley in spring 2021, nestled amongst the mountains, the Alaïa Bay sports complex and its artificial wave pool are extremely popular among surfing enthusiasts.

The founder of this crazy project, Adam Bonvin, tells us all about it.

“Either I needed to live some place where there’s waves, or I needed to bring waves to Valais. Selfishly, I preferred to find a way to be able to surf at home.” That’s the story behind why Adam Bonvin — who was born in Crans-Montana and fell in love with surfing at age 11 — created Alaïa Bay. It was a crazy pipedream that came to life in May 2021 in Domaine des Iles, Sion, after raising a colossal investment of over 20 million CHF. Since then, the 8,300 m2 football-field-sized wave pool generates 300-1,000 waves every hour, which get up to 1.8 m high with help from 46 powerful motors.

There are no fewer than 20 different types of waves on the menu, including tubes!

There’s no more than a dozen wave pools like it in the world, one of which is for private use only for surf legend Kelly Slater in Los Angeles. Five of them use the same “Wavegarden Cove” technology, developed in the Basque region of Spain a little over 10 years ago. The one in Alaïa Bay is the first of its kind in mainland Europe, “the second in Europe after Bristol” specifies Adam.

A POPULAR NEW DISCIPLINE This new discipline has lots of potential, even in mountainous Switzerland. “The Swiss are typically very comfortable with board sports because of skiing or snowboarding, so they

usually make great beginner surfers,” says Adam, who at 28 years old, has found success in all his entrepreneurial ventures, including Alaïa Chalet — an action sports centre (skateboarding, snowboarding, skiing, BMX and more) near Crans-Montana — and the Alaïa Lodge, a sport and lifestyle hub.

According to the Swiss Federal Statistical Office, surfing, which is already practiced by 45,000 residents, is one of the fastest growing sports in the country. Alaïa Bay’s initial goal of 100,000 sessions per year was more than feasible; in fact, the number of entries doubled in 2022!

“All kinds of people come here, from kids to retirees, but our typical surf customer is someone 35 years and up, who loves to surf but doesn’t have time to practice regularly.

Here they can surf without having to save up for a trip.”

A big bonus given the current economic crisis.

At Alaïa Bay you can surf from March until mid-November.

On any given day, around 8 session levels (of one hour, starting at 109 CHF) are on offer, selected after completing a self-test online, on waves that range from 80 cm to 1.80 m, with the option to surf, longboard. or bodyboard. If you need training, Alaïa Bay offers beginner classes and surf camps. If you need to rent equipment, the in-house surfshop

Waves in front of you, mountains behind you; the best of both worlds.

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OMNIA Immobilier merges with Agence Valena in the heart of Verbier An historical Verbier player combines forces with a young dynamic company creating synergies and enhancing the quality of our joint services.

Rue de la Poste 16, 1936 Verbier +41 27 775 35 50 verbier@omnia.ch

Tube riding without needing to travel to Hawaii? You can do it at Alaïa Bay up to 15 times an hour.

has you covered, with boards, wetsuits, water shoes and even head covers for early on or late in the season when the (unheated) water is only around 10° C. AS RELIABLE AS A SWISS WATCH “Technically, the surfing we do here is the same as surfing in the ocean,” says Adam enthusiastically, “except that here, we can guarantee you’ll get to surf at least 15 waves an hour.

After our opening, I was able to surf 5,000 waves at Alaïa Bay in just a few months. How many decades would it have taken me to achieve those kinds of numbers in nature?”

A rhetorical question that Alaïa Bay regulars all already have the answer to: too many! As a result, progress comes quickly. “Our clients are often surprised by how much they improve,” adds Adam.

In the two years since its opening, Alaïa Bay has had its fair share of pros come train at the centre. Here, the technical waves and perfect conditions are guaranteed by the press of a button. “Hawaiian champion Ezekiel Lau insisted on

coming in after a day of snowboarding,” recalls Adam. “He loved being able to practice both disciplines. Believe it or not, his girlfriend surfed her first tube here!” Californian legend Rob Machado and Jérémy Florès (the most decorated French surfer of all time) have also surfed at Alaïa Bay. In the meantime, many young Swiss people come to Alaïa Bay regularly to practice. The skills of this new generation of talent are progressing quickly… maybe we’ll even see some pro Swiss surfers out there someday!

Such a large sporting complex could be accused of being environmentally tone deaf, but that’s simply not the case.

Adam explains. “Alaïa Bay only consumes 1 KWh per wave on average, no more than a 6-seater chair lift, and it’s powered by local hydroelectricity. Our 13,000 m3 of water is not heated and our carbon footprint is further reduced by the fact that our presence in Switzerland also means people take fewer surf trips to far off places.” alaiabay.ch/en

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Rolex Oyster Explorer Launched in 1953, when the first ascent of Everest made headlines, the Explorer rubs shoulders with the summits in a new 40 mm version. Brand afficionados will be excited to embark on their own adventure discovering the details that make this watch shine in a crowd, like its highly readable display in the brand’s iconic font. rolex.com

Breitling Super Chronomat Origins

Hublot Square Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic

Chopard Alpine Eagle

It’s with an eye towards sustainability that Breitling developed their Origin watches, a collection of timepieces that aim to have a reduced social and environmental impact. A highlight of the collection are the synthetic diamonds and the use of Swiss Better Gold, a fully traceable gold that supports small mines who prioritize best practices.

Known for its disruptive and unconventional shape, this square-shaped watch from Hublot has been turning heads since it first launched in 2022. This new interpretation exudes Hublot’s core DNA of “The Art of Fusion,” with a show of strong character that’s brought to life in the case made of brand-exclusive warm-coloured gold.

The eagle flies on high and sees all with its penetrating stare. Chopard captures the iconic energy of this powerful bird’s iris in the stunning finish of the Alpine Eagle dial. Made of Chopard-exclusive ethical rose gold and steel (composed of at least 80% recycled metal), the sky’s the limit for the seductive powers of this 36 mm beauty.

breitling.com

hublot.com

chopard.com

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1. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

2. Chanel Première Lucky Star

3. Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono

TAG Heuer has harnessed the power of the sun. The Solargraph is powered by a light-charged battery housed within the partially transparent dial, here with a titanium case and bracelet. The indexes and hands are coated with Super-Luminova®- simply charge for two hours in the light for a full day’s worth of night-time glow.

What if we could travel through time and space with Gabrielle Chanel’s eternal elegance? The black lacquered dial of the Première Lucky Star sparkles subtly with its aventurine effect and features a diamond-covered bezel and star-shaped charm. A perfect addition to the Interstellar capsule collection that embodies the magic of a starry sky.

Three, two, one… dive! The bidirectional rotating bezel of the Pelagos FXD, here in a chronograph version, facilitates sequential course navigation thanks to the integration of a magnetic compass. Perfectly fitting for a watch that was born in 1950, specifically to meet the needs of a unit of the French marine corps.

tagheuer.com

chanel.com

tudorwatch.com

4. Longines HydroConquest

5. Norqain Wild ONE TCS NY

6. Zenith Chronomaster Sport cadran bleu

This model from the HydroConquest collection — which came to life in 2007 with watches that are waterproof up to 300 m — reinterprets the traditional dive watch. Boasting an entirely black look, it’s topped with a sporty case and bezel in ceramic, which is both extremely elegant and highly scratch-resistant.

Now THIS is a marathon runner’s watch that will really help you pick up the pace. Made of Norteq, which is 6 times lighter than steel (and 3.5 times lighter than titanium), it is also extremely shock resistant. Only 262 copies of this special limited-edition dial were made, which retraces the route of the legendary New York Marathon.

The Zenith Chronomaster Sport 41 mm watch is back, this time as a throwback to the iconic El Primero DeLuca and Rainbow from the 1980s and 1990s. This new sportychic model feels retro, but features a steel case, strap, and bezel (instead of the usual ceramic bezel), along with a beautiful tricolour blue dial.

longines.com

norqain.com

zenith-watches.com

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1. Bogner Elaine Stirrup pants bogner.com

2. Montblanc MB 01 over-ear headphones montblanc.com

3. Rolex Perpetual 1908 rolex.com

4. Bally Raise Sneakers in leather bally.ch

5. Pomellato Catene ring michaud.ch

6. POC Levator Mips visor helmet 1

pocsports.com

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1. HG Timepiece

by Marc Newson Hourglass michaud.ch

2. Rossignol Podium knee high boots rossignol.com

3. Audo Ingeborg lounge chair connox.ch

4. Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Second Skin ruinart.com

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BIG BANG UNICO 18K King Gold and ceramic case.

In-house UNICO chronograph movement.

helvet.swiss