#helvet magazine Zermatt | Hiver 2023-2024 | EN by district creative lab

Zermatt The majestic Alps and the ultimate ski experience loom ahead and, under the snow-covered rooftops, time stands still.

WINTER 2023-2024

MARCO ODERMATT

CONQUEST MARCO ODERMATT

KHAKI FIELD EXPEDITION

Living the high life

Editorial It’s not a bird, a plane, or even a mirage. It’s the very icon of Switzerland: the Matterhorn in all its glory and Zermatt spread out below at the base of the mountain. Whether we come from distant lands or the banks of Lake Geneva, the emotion we feel is identical. In the cocoon of the valley, amidst the old homes and majestic chalets of the station, serenity takes hold, riding the coattails of memories that will last us a lifetime. Come Christmas, it gets even better. A light dusting of snow only makes Zermatt’s Alpine summits and glaciers, mountain air, horse-drawn carriages, antique wood, and old stone feel more timeless than ever. Here, it’s as authentic as it gets, which is one its greatest keys to global success. It’s a true winter refuge… and a refuge for the soul. When the world moves too quickly, Zermatt allows us to catch our breath, opening the window on a past way of life we feared we had lost. Here we find tranquillity, silence, and — quite possibly — some magic. In Zermatt, we find the same families as always, carefully guarding the well-being of the valley, the village, and their reputations. Here, the warm welcome is legendary, and the traditional values are upheld: honesty, work, and a sense of the common good. Together we forge on, tirelessly, investing in a future that is forever caught in a dichotomy between preservation and the latest technologies. In 2023, after many years of work and planning, the Matterhorn Alpine Crossing cable car finally conquered the mountain peaks, connecting two Alpine slopes without emitting a single ounce of CO2. While the station has historically been car-free, Zermatt is always thinking of new ways to go green — take, for example, the CERVO, a leading Design Hotels member and a beacon for environmental and social responsibility, which just won the “Best Sustainable Hotel in Switzerland” award. The desire to do well has also made its way to the dinner table, where high-quality local ingredients have found their natural place in the spotlight. It can’t be said often enough that, despite being a small village, Zermatt is one of the world’s premier fine-dining destinations. It was the perfect excuse for helvet to explore the ski resort’s best tables, both in terms of culinary expertise and the exceptional views… which naturally feature the Matterhorn, front and centre.

Christian Bugnon Publisher & Editor-in-chief

More than just an extraordinary setting

T H E O M N IA

is a uniquely wonderful experience. Come and see for yourself.

THE OMNIA, Zermatt – Switzerland, Phone +41 27 966 71 71, www.the-omnia.com

Contents

Winter 2022-2023

Panoramas and the best tables

A ski domain at its zenith

Joni Hedinger

The art of high-altitude skiing

125 years of excellent, loyal services

In the kitchen with Reinhold Wrobel

The solitary heroes of the night

A champion by all accounts

A record numbers of visits

High in the mountains

At the CERVO, luxury meets sustainability

A multidisciplinary artist

Watches & Shopping

News

Z for Zermatt

Gornergrat Railway

Mikaela Shiffrin

Search for meaning

News

Portfolio

A table overflowing with flavours

Zermatt at the peak of fame

Heinz Julen

Zermatt fine-dining

The PDG returns

Spotlight on the snow groomers

Zum See

Trends

Editing, administration and advertising District Creative Lab sàrl I Place de la Palud 23, 1003 Lausanne – Suisse I info@district.swiss I district.swiss I Tél : +41 21 312 41 41 Editor-in-chief Christian Bugnon : christian@district.swiss Project Manager Anne-Laure Bugnon : annelaure@district.swiss Writers Christian Bugnon, Daniel Bauchervez, Isabelle Guignet, Claude Hervé-Bazin, Yannick Nardin Photographers David Carlier, Seya Eggler, Pascal Gertschen, Joni Hedinger, Marc Kronig, Lucas Meier, Kurt Reichenbach (Schweizer Illustrierte), Marco Schnyder, Florina Toma — Zermatt Tourisme Layout District Creative Lab — Samuel Galley English translation Karen Cooper German translation Sabine Dröschel Photo-offset printing Images3 Advertising info@district.swiss Copyright © 2023-2024 helvet magazine, Unauthorized duplication/copying of all or any part of this magazine is strictly prohibited without the express prior permission of the rightful owners. Cover Michael Portmann | Next issue: Winter 2024-2025 I as part of the same collection, discover the helvet book: Verbier – helvet magazine Verbier and Geneva | shop at helvet.swiss Living the high life !

Swiss excellence in the treatment of mental health and issues of substance and behavioural dependency

YOU ARE UNIQUE AND SO ARE WE Clinic Les Alpes is an exceptionally private and secluded retreat. Located in a setting of outstanding natural beauty in the mountains close to the town of Montreux, Switzerland, the clinic has the added convenience of proximity to all major swiss airports. This exclusive clinic is fully medically licensed by the Swiss Department of Health and treats patients and their families with the issues of substance and behavioural dependency, along with debilitating emotional and mental conditions, such as anxiety, stress, depression and burnout. Clinic Les Alpes provides a fully integrated approach to treatment and each patient receives a bespoke programme created together with the medical team for his or her individual needs and requirements. The expertise of an international, highly skilled, multi-disciplinary team of medical, psychiatric, psychotherapeutic and complementary practitioners is on hand and available 24 hours a day, seven days a week to be of service to patients and their families who are referred from around the globe. The clinic is multilingual with the primary language being English. Clinic Les Alpes is beautifully appointed and each of the private ensuite bedrooms has superb views of lake Geneva, the snow capped mountains and alpine meadows. Below the main chateau building, three floors have been excavated from solid rock, flooded with natural light and housing state of the art medical and therapeutic facilities along with a complete floor dedicated to a full medical spa. Many services claim to deliver excellence. At Clinic Les Alpes we have set our sights on defining it. We are here to assist. Contact us in complete confidence at:

www.cliniclesalpes.com +41 58 360 55 00

admissions@cliniclesalpes.com

ACTIVITY

GORNERGRAT RAILWAY: CELEBRATING 125 YEARS You don’t celebrate a 125th anniversary every day! To mark the occasion, Europe’s highest, open-air cog railway is the star of a special exhibition at the Matterhorn Museum — Zermatlantis. You’ll find the old 3003 locomotive on display, gilded in gold for the perfect photo opp at the summit of the Gornergrat track. To get there, nothing beats the new NostalChic class ticket, which includes a ride aboard a vintage train wagon, a 4-course meal, assorted wines, and panoramic windows. The wagon runs every Wednesday from Dec. 27, 2023-April 17, 2024. gornergrat.ch

INFRASTRUCTURE

HOSPITALITY

ECONOMY

ZERMATT WINS “BEST SKI RESORT IN THE ALPS” 2023

RENOVATED DELUXE ROOMS AT HOTEL BELLERIVE

ANOTHER RECORD YEAR FOR ZERMATT BERGBAHNEN

Having already won the overall title in 2014, 2016, and 2020, Zermatt has once again been named “Best Ski Resort in the Alps” as part of Europe’s largest independent guest satisfaction survey, which rates 54 ski resorts through feedback from around 50,000 winter sports enthusiasts. Among the 14 key satisfaction criteria, Zermatt scored highly for: size and quality of the ski resort; catering and accommodation variety; transport convenience; guaranteed snow; and run safety.

Smart & casual. The new Panorama Deluxe rooms at the Hotel Bellerive — located at Riedstrasse 3, just steps from the river and the famous Mountaineers’ Cemetery — bring together ultimate comfort, contemporary design, and timeless Alpine charm with a keen attention to detail. The Deluxe rooms feature natural materials of the highest quality, lots of wood and warm tones, luxurious new bathrooms with rain showers and light therapy products, and incredible views of the Matterhorn. Well worth a visit!

Even though the post-pandemic 20212022 ski season established record numbers in terms of visitors and revenue for Zermatt’s lift operating company, the 2022-2023 season had even better results! The numbers were announced late September and show an almost 7% increase, which exceeds all standards in the industry. Travellers from Asia and (even more so) from North America contributed to the record increase, notably thanks to Zermatt’s integration into the multiresort Ikon ski and snowboard pass.

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WINTER 2023-2024

CULTURE

SNOWXPERIENCE: TOUCH THE SNOW

UNIQUE EXCURSIONS WITH THE JULEN FAMILY

Get an aerial view of the Theodul Glacier from the new Alpine Crossing cable car that links the Klein Matterhorn (3,821 m) to Testa Grigia (3,458 m) on the Italian-Swiss border — which also happens to be home to the brand-new Plateau Rosa SnowXperience adventure park. It’s the perfect location for far-travelled guests to enjoy their first contact with the snow or discover skiing, snowboarding, or even snowtubing for the first time. Hire a coach and/or rent all the equipment you may need conveniently on site and enjoy snowy adventures while basking in one of the world’s most beautiful panoramas. matterhornparadise.ch

In the summer you see them grazing Alpine pastures for wildflowers, but what happens to the Blacknose sheep in the winter? They return to the barn, of course! These charming creatures are known for the black on their noses, eyes, ears, knees, hocks and feet, and their long, white woolly coats. You can visit them every Wednesday from mid-December to mid-April, accompanied by Paul Julen or his son Paul-Marc, who love to share this unique Valais tradition with visitors. If you’re lucky, you might get to pet a sheep, but you’ll definitely get to enjoy a delicious apéro with wine, cheese, and dried meats from the farm.

zermatters.ch/touch-snow

julen.ch/en/events/visit-the-sheep-barn

INFRASTRUCTURE

HOSPITALITY

HOLIDAY COFFEE AND CLOTHING IN ZERMATT Fusalp, a luxury winter clothing brand founded in Annecy in 1952, has recently experienced a surge in highend popularity and joined forces with Nespresso this holiday season for a new and exciting brand collaboration. The result is a special, limited-edition collection of coffees and accessories, in addition to warming coffee recipes for cocktails or mocktails to enjoy this holiday season, all inspired by Fusalp’s iconic “Alpine Chic” style. To indulge in the collab’s après-ski experience for yourself, visit the Nespresso dome on the terrace of the legendary Hotel Zermatterhof from December 14, 2023-January 28, 2024, and discover the full Nespresso x Fusalp collection in the Swiss brand’s boutiques. nespresso.com fusalp.com

WINTER 2023-2024

GASTRONOMY

FESTIVAL

THE NEWEST GAULT&MILLAU TABLES

NOT TO BE MISSED: ZERMATT UNPLUGGED

Bingo! Already home to 20 restaurants ranked with the Gault&Millau gastronomy guide (an Alpine per capita record), Zermatt saw three more establishments added to the list when the 2024 edition was published. The new laureates include Le Restaurant (at the Mont Cervin Palace Hotel), which specializes in seafood (14 points); Potato, a hyper-local restaurant where every ingredient is sourced within the surrounding 50 km (13 points); and 1818 Eat & Drink, which is housed in a chalet that features interior design by Zermatt artist Heinz Julen, and a large charcoal grill that heats up to 300°C (13 points). This year, Brasserie Uno and The Omnia also ranked higher, scoring 15 and 16 points respectively.

Switzerland’s largest acoustic music festival will take place this year April 9-13, 2024, welcoming dozens of bands and musicians across different venues — from the village to the alpine pastures — with stages set up in chapels, tents, on terraces, or in clubs and hotels (going as high as 2,580 m at the Blue Lounge, in the heart of the ski resort). As per usual, the line-up includes a mix of established artists and up-and-coming musicians, who all perform acoustic sets in some of the most beautiful alpine settings.

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One of the largest open-air curling tournaments in Europe, the Horu Trophy (now in its 32nd year) unites the best curling clubs in Switzerland and Liechtenstein. The three day competition is in the centre of town, at the Zermatt ice rink from January 25-28, 2024. It’s a great way to learn about the sport’s most important terms and techniques: a “curl” (inducing a curved path), the “house” (the circular target marked on the ice), and “takeouts” (any throw meant to remove one of the other team’s rocks from play). The ice rink also hosts local club tournaments every Wednesday this winter season.

potatozermatt.com 1818zermatt.ch

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COMPETITION

COMING IN JANUARY: THE HORU TROPHY

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ACTIVITY

FATBIKE DANS LA NOIRCEUR… With their oversized tires that offer a smooth, cushioned ride, Fatbikes are their own kind of mini miracle, allowing you to bike in the snow (without sinking in up to your nose). To take full advantage of Zermatt’s serene winter nights and twinkling starry Alpine skies, join Beat Habegger for a guided Fatbike night ride that will take you on an almost mystical 400 m ascent through the forest. It’s an experience you’ll never forget! Helmet and front bike light provided. fatbikezermatt.ch

REACT AMP PRO GOGGLE

AMPLIFY YOUR VISION NO SHORTCUTS What does it take to be Freeride World Champion? Skiing lines others can't see. Amplifier Lens Technology gave Valentin Rainer clear sight of any obstacle that was in his way to become the 2023 Freeride World Tour Champion.

SCOTT-SPORTS.COM © SCOTT-Sports | 2023.24 | Photo: Moritz Ablinger

WINTER 2023-2024

HOSPITALITY

CHRISTIAN ECKERT NAMED “HOTELIER OF THE YEAR”

While new establishments in Zermatt were being classed by Gault&Millau, the Michelin Guide also awarded Bazaar, Hotel Cervo’s restaurant, with a Bib Gourmand — an award that recognizes restaurants that offer high-quality food at pocket-friendly prices. Open all day (7:00-23:00), the restaurant stays true to its name by serving food inspired by the lively markets of the East. Primarily vegetarian and/or organic ingredients are in the spotlight here, with momos (Tibetan raviolis), dim sum (Chinese dumplings), burgers, and Italian pastas. Take your tastebuds on a global journey! guide.michelin.com cervo.swiss/en/restaurants-bars/bazaar

GASTRONOMY

BAZAAR GETS A BIB GOURMAND

HOSPITALITY

THE RIFFELALP REVISITS THEIR SPA

Rather than take risks while off-piste, why not sign up for an avalanche training course with the Zermatt association of guides and mountaineers? The full training is composed of two modules, but there are also à la carte classes and group courses offered every Saturday this winter season (ages 15 and up only). Familiarize yourself with the weather, your equipment (incl. an avalanche transceiver), and learn to recognize and reduce risks with some life-saving rescue techniques.

It’s the highest elevation spa in Europe! At 2,222 m, the extremely chic 5-star Riffelalp Resort is perched on a ledge that faces the valley and the Matterhorn, offering one of the most impressive panoramic views in Zermatt. The spa features an indoor pool, exterior pool (that’s open in the afternoons and heated to 35° C), a sauna, steam baths, a brand-new fitness centre, updated relaxation lounges, new and more spacious massage rooms (which can accommodate couples), refreshed décor, and enchanting walls of living moss. And clients can rest assured there will always be room, as the spa is exclusively reserved for hotel guests.

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ACTIVITY

AVALANCHE TRAINING WITH ZERMATTERS

The Managing Director of the 5-star Omnia Hotel — a flagship establishment in Zermatt, which overlooks the old city centre— was recently awarded the HôtellerieSuisse “2023 Hotelier of the Year” award! This Oscar of the hospitality industry, which is judged by a jury of specialists, recognizes the hard work and meticulous attention to detail this industry professional is known for. Christian has a reputation for being naturally friendly and encouraging creativity and innovation at every level by being highly attuned to the needs of both the hotel’s clientele and employees. Congratulations Christian! the-omnia.com

CULTURE

RECYCLED CHRISTMAS TREES Every year, the Zermatt lift operating company invests up to one million Swiss Francs in nature restoration and energy saving initiatives as part of their commitment to sustainable development. And no stone has been left unturned, as every January, they go so far as to recycle every one of the many 2-3.5-metre Christmas trees that decorate their properties during the December holidays. A sign of respect for Zermatt’s forests, which at 2,300 m are the highest altitude forests in Switzerland. matterhornparadise.ch

ZERMATT BERGBAHNEN

Ready for magical moments? The Matterhorn Ski Paradise offers up to 360 kilometres of slopes and is one of the best ski resorts in the Alps. The perfectly prepared slopes, the panorama and the culinary delights on the mountainside offer a very special experience. The connection to Italy makes it possible to enjoy Swiss hospitality and Italian lifestyle in one day. Book your ticket now and enjoy magical moments.

Book early and save: matterhornparadise.ch

YOUR PRIVATE EVENT AT OUR NEW RESTAURANT DINER’S CLUB

Open to public from Tuesday to Saturday

Make your booking at vernissage@backstagehotel.ch Corporate Events, Shows and Acts, Private Dinners, Banquet, Party, Film + Photo, Public Event, Conference / Congress, Fashion show Exhibition, Concert Seminar, Weddings... backstagehotel.ch

HIVER 2023-2024

INFRASTRUCTURES

HOSPITALITY

CULTURE

ZERMATT-FURI, REINVENTED

PEAK RELAXATION AT HOTEL LA COURONNE’S NEW SPA

BE WTR: ZERMATT’S SUSTAINABLE WATER

The new Zermatt-Furi cable car (which was dismounted in spring ‘22 for replacement) officially started operating this fall, just in time for the winter season and the first snow fall. The departure train station was renovated to meet Minergie-P low-energy-consumption guidelines, now contains ski lockers, and will soon welcome a baggage check-in counter for travellers wanting to journey to Italy via the Alpine Crossing. And the new panoramic cabins, which can transport up to 100 people, guarantee a magnificent view of the Matterhorn — which brave souls can also enjoy as a Rooftop Ride! matterhornparadise.ch

HOSPITALITY

BASECAMP HOTEL: MORE ALPINE THAN EVER

A new generation has taken up the torch at the Hotel La Couronne with “a mountain state-of-mind.” Located at Kirchstrasse 17, this welcoming establishment features an in-house sporting goods store, bike shop, and a brand-new spa. Immerse yourself in total luxurious relaxation by taking advantage of the indoor pool, outdoor pool with views of the Matterhorn, three saunas, a hammam, a cold (and invigorating!) snow room, multiple relaxation lounges, massage tables, and infrared lounge chairs. There’s no better way to warm up after a long, demanding day on the slopes… with or without your swimsuit (in the adults-only section). The cherry on the cake is that the water is now heated with thermal heat pumps. hotel-couronne.ch

It’s tap water, but better: without residual micropollutants and without any traces of bacteria. Founded in Lausanne in 2020, BE WTR uses ultrafiltration technology to guarantee clients “fresh filtered water with a local taste.” In partnership with Zermatt Matterhorn Brauerei AG, BE WTR is installing a bottling plant that’s connected to the Zermatt drinking water network. The service will distribute still or sparkling water in reusable (and returnable) bottles of 50 or 75 cl., to hotels and restaurants in Zermatt. The company also participates in 1% for the planet, giving at least 1% of annual sales to environmental organizations that support water-related projects — proof of an eco-friendly philosophy at the very core of everything they do. bewtr.com

GASTRONOMY

Since 2017, this “small hotel with a big heart” has been run by mountain guide Richard Lehner and his wife Yvette (ex-guardians of the Monte Rose Hut and the Gandegg Hut). Located at Riedstrasse 80, just above the city centre, the hotel features Tibetan and Swiss flags in the garden, the Matterhorn on the horizon, an in-house sauna, and a hearty (included) breakfast. Enjoy the friendly and comfortable ambiance in any of the 27 newly renovated rooms and apartments, each of which features a unique mountain name and themed décor!

NEW WINTER POP-UP DINING BY CERVO

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cervo.swiss

Never short on ideas, the CERVO has opened a new pop-up restaurant in December at the pool of the former Sunstar Hotel (now known as “Rising Sun”) on the left bank, at Untere Mattenstrasse 50. Conveniently named “La Piscina,” it features Italian home-style cuisine by Sicilian chef Gaia Bongiorno and her sidekick Silvia Mignini. Expect to enjoy an Italian 4-course menu in an extraordinary atmosphere, limited to 20 guests per night. Open Thursday to Sunday, until February 4, 2024.

Z for Zermatt A ski domain at its zenith Text Claude Hervé Bazin Photos Pascal Gertschen | Marco Schnyder

To describe Zermatt and its ski area it’s easy to cite superlatives. But nothing’s really better than diving into its sea of powder snow to revive that zest for life. In the Zone! Tucked deep in the valley, close to the Matterhorn but far from the world’s tribulations, Zermatt has always maintained a certain aloofness and one of the most stunning Alpine panoramas: 23 peaks at 4,000 m+ if you count the ones in immediate proximity, 38 if you also include those of the neighbouring Valais Alps. From the very accessible Allalinhorn (4,027 m) to the Zumsteinspitze (4,563 m), to the highest point within Switzerland, Dufourspitze (4,634 m). More than a postcard, it’s a way to zero in on the spirit of the mountains. Zoom! This is where the ski domain unfolds over 360 km of slopes that zap you from valley to valley, from glacier to glacier, from perfect view to perfect view, from one country

While not exclusively for highly skilled skiers, the Zermatt ski domain boasts a significant number of red and black level slopes.

SAVOIR VIVRE IN THE ALPS AT

Schönegg

(Switzerland) to another (Italy). There are no Zoll (customs) signs here, just large fields of fully white, binational snow — practically guaranteed by the world’s highest altitude — waiting to be zig-zagged across without interruption. Some incredible runs await: 17.9% black, 61.4% red, 20.7% blue… including a zappy 25-km run along the Matterhorn from the Mountain Glacier Paradise gondola stop (3,883 m). A global record that guarantees zestful memories! Zirkus! To ease your dive into this white circus, an intricate web of lifts (54) awaits: chair lifts, gondolas, cable cars, an Alpine metro, and the legendary zug (cog train) from Gornergrat Bahn, which is celebrating 125 years of loyal service this very year. On the other side of the technological spectrum, the newly inaugurated Matterhorn Alpine Crossing now makes it possible to cross the mountains sky-high through six connected lifts, in a gorgeous 90-minute journey. Zeitgeist! Zero pollution, zero noise, and a zillion memories… Zermatt is certainly keeping with the times. It’s difficult to find anything more zen, more contemporary, more comforting that this iconic ski resort that’s all chalets and no cars, where optimism reigns. matterhornparadise.ch

Gornergrat Railway 125 years of excellent, loyal services Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photos Gornergrat Bahn

Over the course of the 19th century, the Alps have gradually become less hostile and terrifying. The first tourists began to appear on the slopes, getting ever closer to the summits and glaciers. In 1898, the first electric cogwheel train in Switzerland broke the 3,000 m mark to stand alongside the Gorner Glacier’s seracs and is now celebrating its 125th anniversary.

The Gornergrat railway has been environmentally friendly since its beginnings. In addition to using hydropower, it also recuperates its own electricity on the descent, generating enough energy from three downhill trips to power two ascensions.

“I had a magnificent view of Monte Rosa, and apparently all the rest of the Alpine world, from that high place. All the circling horizon was piled high with a mighty tumult of snowy crests. […] there is no such tremendous «layout» of snowy Alpine magnitude, grandeur, and sublimity to be seen from any other accessible point as the tourist may see from the [Gornergrat],” wrote Mark Twain in 1878, during his hike from Zermatt to the great Gorner Glacier. Before his eyes the ice snaked royally for 15 km through the valley, beneath the watchful eye of the Matterhorn and over two dozen other Alpine peaks surpassing 4,000 m. As the years passed, the number of summit conquests increased, popularized by the media and geographical societies. Soon there were thousands of curious, high society visitors each year, coming to see the Gornergrat panorama for themselves, mounting the summit by foot, on the back of a horse, or in a sedan chair. The Swiss Federal Council sensed an opportunity, and a train was built to Zermatt in 1891. But why stop there? EVER CLOSER TO THE SKY A publisher in Bienne had already submitted a licence application for reaching the Gornergrat and the Matterhorn, but that was too ambitious, so the contract was awarded to Haag & Greulich. Despite initial opposition from locals who wanted to protect their mountain guide industry, work began in May 1896. While they could only build in the summer months, and were slowed down by the construction of two bridges and five tunnels, work advanced quickly thanks to

the help from thousands of Italian workers who were called in. Before them lay the monumental task of laying 9,029 m of rails. To power the line, a hydropower station was built on the Findeln River. On Saturday August 20, 1898, at 10:00, a motorcar and two wooden wagons left Zermatt for the first ascension by train beneath a radiant sun. The trip, three times slower than today’s journey, took an hour and a half at an average speed of 7.2 km/h. When the train arrived at the 3,018 m terminus (today at 3,089 m), a grand picnic took place, complete with skirts, corsets, and wide-brimmed hats. Europe’s highest, open-air electric train (to this day!) was officially inaugurated! “Everyone who took the train was enchanted with the new line, which will certainly be a great success,” wrote the Le Confédéré newspaper. Time only served to confirm the prediction, as evidenced by the construction of the Kulmhotel above the highest train station, at 3,100 m (a Swiss record). While it initially only ran from June to September, the train began winter trips in 1927-28 to Riffelalp, where most skiers disembarked, and then to Riffelboden. Finally in 1941, the train reached the Gornergrat in the snow. And contrary to initial fears, it has only served to increase tourism for the people of Zermatt. The train’s historical charm is still a strong pull to this day for visitors who are fascinated by the unique Alpine panoramas the journey offers. gornergrat.ch

Mikaela Shiffrin A champion by all accounts Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photos Longines

At only 28 years old, this charming American skier boasts an unparalleled list of wins to her name. Known as “the greatest Alpine skier of all time,” she’s been shaking up the standings and turning heads for years. Keep an eye out for her this winter season! Mikaela Shiffrin is taking the ski world by storm. With three Olympic medals (two gold), seven World Championship titles, 88 World Cup victories (at time of writing), 138 combined podiums, medals in four of the five major ski disciplines (all except downhill), and so many crystal globes (six!), she probably doesn’t even know what to do with them anymore, Mikaela is smashing records (including Ingemar Stenmark’s and Lindsey Vonn’s) right and left. She’s already a living legend, and she’s still racing. Practically born with skis on her feet in Vail, Colorado — one of America’s ski meccas — Mikaela Shiffrin is nothing short

of a winner. At five years old she began competitive skiing and she hasn’t stopped since. Her helmet proudly displays her iron will and slogan: ABFTTB — Always Be Faster Than The Boys! She left home as a teen to attend Burke Mountain Academy High School in Vermont, on the other side of the country; a world-class ski racing boarding school that fosters champions, who also double as visionaries and entrepreneurs. They say winning has nothing to do with age and Mikaela is real-life proof: she won the United States slalom championships when she was only 16 years old. Two years later, in the Sotchi Olympics, she became the youngest athlete in

Mikaela Shiffrin has been a Longines Ambassador since 2014. She’s an exemplary champion and role model who combines sporting excellence with nerves of steel.

history to win an Olympic gold medal in her discipline. Her career took off from there as she continued to smash both expectations and records. While every one of Mikaela’s early career wins was in slalom, she’s truly a broad-spectrum skier who excels in almost every discipline. In 2019, she made history with her first super-G win at Lake Louise, becoming the first athlete in FIS Ski World Cup history to win in all six disciplines. She also went on to set a new record number of victories for a single season (17!) amongst both men and women. She’s a true global phenomenon; superhuman even, according to some. Her signature is quicky springing to action and totally controlled descents. She’s got the ferocious will of a loco-

motive and a consistently positive attitude. She also has a well-known habit of taking naps… and busting out some dance moves when she places first on the clock. Her eternal goal is always the same: to be the best skier in the world. With Beijing on her radar for the 2022 Olympics, she was deemed the favourite in three of the six disciplines she was racing in. It proved to be a heavy burden, and she did not finish in her slalom races. Despite not winning a medal, she still came out positive (with nothing she still needs to prove), saying “the important thing is not so much to win as to inspire the next generation.” A mantra we know she will continue to live by going into this winter season. fis-ski.com

Search for meaning At the CERVO, luxury meets sustainability Text Yannick Nardin Photos CERVO Mountain Resort

Tucked into the mountainside, the Hotel CERVO offers the perfect setting for reflecting on environmental respect as the Matterhorn looms over the panorama. With this in mind, the CERVO has transformed itself into a sustainable ecotourism destination, which is celebrated during the “A Love Beyond” festival. In the stairway that leads to the spa, a majestic macramé unfolds in long, cream-coloured knots. “It was a communal art piece, made by participants at the ‘A Love Beyond’ festival last year. It’s a beautiful reminder of the time we spent together,” explains Dörte Bundt. The Berlin-based artist will return this year for the third edition of the event, during which she will lead a weaving workshop using dried herbs, wool, pinecones, and other natural treasures upon a canvas of branches. The festival is organised by her partner Joel Isaac Black — a DJ of many talents, whose look and mindset are undoubtably “on trend.” It’s through these kinds of activities

The Cervo boasts 54 rooms and suites, along with 7 chalets, that embody elegant and contemporary Alpine style.

that the CERVO has brought fresh life and innovation into High Valais hospitality, proving that luxury can be compatible with sustainability, authenticity, and “awesomeness.” This belief infuses the “A Love Beyond” festival, along with the rest of the annual programming for this eco-friendly hotel. SUSTAINABILITY = REAL LUXURY At the CERVO, simplicity has become a guiding principle. The goal is to be carbon neutral when it comes to heating and hot water usage — 99% of which already relies on geothermal energy. The resort is also devoted to sourcing supplies locally. As such, the Ferdinand and Madre Nostra

restaurants focus on regional specialities, while the Eastern-inspired Bazaar primarily serves vegetarian dishes. A founding member of the Responsible Hotels of Switzerland alliance, and holder of the “Sustainable Living” and “Ibex Fairstay” labels, the CERVO was also crowned “Switzerland’s Best Resort Spa” at the 2023 World Spa Awards and won gold in the Global Luxury Mountain Resort category at the 2023 World Luxury Hotel Awards. And yet the resort’s rooms and chalets spare no luxury; it simply feels like they have been adapted to function within the limits of the available resources. That adaptation is even

Inspired by the lively markets of the East, the Bazaar restaurant is the place where everyone gets together.

reflected in the décor, which features natural materials like wood and stone, accented with pops of colours from beautiful, dried flower bouquets. In the spa, the natural pool is surrounded by bulrush, and rubs shoulders with a thermal pool complete with a waterfall and a yurt. From the relaxing spa treatments to the abundance of pillows in every room, all of it was designed with the guests’ comfort in mind. This sustainable luxury has already proven its value as the hotel is often completely booked. WITH A DASH OF INSPIRATION Everything about the “A Love Beyond” festival is designed to help build meaningful connections. Musicians, yoga teachers, artists, and even CERVO employees happily interact with guests — a relaxed (yet intentional) casualness that has been built into the program by the resort. Here, mystery and magic brought to life through singing bowls, cooking workshops, photography sessions, natural dyeing, live DJ sets, and acoustic guitar concerts that combine with yoga, quantum healing, and psychedelic breathwork. It’s all designed to encourage revitalization, connection with self and others, and new experiences. The truth is that a sustainable approach that reconnects us with nature has never been more urgently needed, especially considering the current climate emergency. Breitling — a brand that has been a CERVO partner since its last renovation in 2021 — had an informal presentation during the festival about their brand strategy and shared some key numbers from their Social and Environmental Sustainability Report. Explorer and Breitling Ambassador Bertrand Piccard gave an inspiring presentation, where he underlined the importance of “creating a new story that focuses on protecting our environment” in partnership with innovative companies. He spoke from personal experience, having been the first to complete a round-the-world solar-powered flight. “The aviation industry said it would be impossible to travel around the world by plane without using fossil fuels. I knew nothing about the industry, which allowed me to approach it with a completely new perspective, and to succeed in doing it!” It was an inspiring moment, perfectly followed by a moment on the CERVO terrace, set to electronic music in the warmth of an Indian summer. cervo.swiss

P O R T F O L

Joni Hedinger Sights set on the Swiss Alps Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photos Joni Hedinger

The sun rises slowly over the Gorner Glacier’s captivating ice flow. In the blue shadows of the early morning towers the king of all Swiss summits, Monte Rosa, at 4,634 m.

It’s difficult to capture a more iconic image of the Matterhorn (4,478 m), reflected, at sunrise, in this small lake off the Riffelsee Lake Trail (Nr. 21).

For three days in a row, Joni Hedinger hiked to the Bishorn summit, morning and night, in an attempt to capture the north face of the Weisshorn over a sea of clouds.

Below the Bishorn summit’s crest, outlined in intense pink light, an ocean of clouds envelops Zermatt’s Matter Valley.

A carpenter by trade, Joni Hedinger became a professional photographer thanks to Instagram; a lightning-fast career change that now allows him to make a living off his passion for wide open spaces and majestic mountains.

Lake Zurich below, Alpine mountains on the horizon, Joni Hedinger has made Rapperswil his homebase and the eternal Swiss countrysides his favourite subject. “No philosophy per se (yet),” says the 31-year-old, who is driven by a strong urge to seize life by the jaws, with his camera at the ready. It all began when adolescent Joni posted his first smartphone images to his Instagram. While he filled his days with scrapers, gouges, and saws (while training as a carpenter), his Instagram followers began to climb steadily… and then exploded. At the age of 23, the young man from St. Gallen bought his first camera. Three years later, after amassing several thousands of followers (and a lot of confidence), he quit woodworking to focus on photography fulltime. A MOUNTAIN ENTHUSIAST Pastime, passion, work, and creative outlet: for Joni, all four elements make up his day-to-day routine. Working hard for various brands in addition to feeding his Instagram account (with 157,000 followers at time of print), the young man easily flits from one project to the next. Always ready to slide on his hiking boots and load up a sleeping bag, he’s never as comfortable as he is in the high mountains, “between adventure and inspiration.” What makes him tick? The feeling that he’s living a series of magical moments, up there, on top of the world. What motivates

him? Transmitting that energy to others. “What I love most of all are the minimalist photos of the mountains, and the adventurous images that get peoples’ heart rates up when they look at them.” Joni’s success is marked by his membership in The Alpinists collective, composed of 11 passionate Instagram photographers. What began as exchanges and congratulations led to constructive conversations, group hikes, a WhatsApp group, a dedicated Instagram account, and then an official association and a host of group projects — notably photography workshops and two published books of hiking photography, Lost in the Alps and Lost in the Alps 2. “It’s a huge privilege,” says Joni, recognizing how lucky he is to have made a career out of his passion. And yet it’s not all “just luck.” Joni is organised (having to plan both lighting and destinations), takes care of his equipment almost obsessively (juggling stills, video, and drone photography), and scouts all his locations (multiple times if needed) — as was the case for his pictures of the Matterhorn and the Weisshorn featured here. The elements, of course, played a key role in the rest, giving Joni the occasional perfect opportunity to seize that rare and precious moment. jonihedinger.ch

A table overflowing with flavours In the kitchen with Reinhold Wrobel Text Daniel Bauchervez Photos Chalet Hotel Schönegg

The final touch on a pasta dish. Refined but never pretentious, Chef Reinhold Wrobel’s cuisine expertly blends textures, flavours, and aesthetics.

The Chalet Hotel Schönegg is truly a rare bird. As the only Relais & Châteaux property in Zermatt, it unites extraordinary views of the majestic Matterhorn, the highest quality of service, flawless comfort, a warm welcome, and exceptional dining at the hotel’s restaurant, Saveurs.

Originally from Germany, Chef Reinhold Wrobel has been living in Zermatt for over two decades.

The grand chalet is lightly poised above the village, not quite an eagle’s nest but certainly miles above our everyday terra firma. The height offers Alps to the left, Alps to the right, and the Matterhorn in the middle… the establishment’s infinity terrace has few equals when it comes to the breath-taking view. With its abundance of wood, balconies, and windows — from the bedrooms to the dining room — here, there’s a constant feast for the eyes. In the exclusive world of Relais & Châteaux, the dining table is of the utmost importance. And at the Schönegg, the cornerstone of dining is the restaurant Saveurs, which scored 14 points with Gault&Millau for the 2024 edition of the guide. “That gives us an edge when recruiting talent and also keeps us motivated to preserve all the best parts of what we do,” explained Line Février and Sebastian Metry, the young couple at the helm of the establishment. It’s also an extra dose of pressure for chef Reinhold Wrobel, who strives — more than ever — to perfect the presentation of every one of his dishes.

A COMFORTABLY DISCREET CHEF The German chef, who arrived in Switzerland at the beginning of his career, has been running the ovens of the house for over two decades — after patiently climbing the culinary ladder, having worked in various places from Ascona to Davos, St. Moritz, and Gstaad. Among his favourite memories is the time he spent at Castello del Sole, working with Othmar Schlegel to serve the best table in the canton of Ticino. Hired as the sous chef of the Chalet Hotel Schönegg in 2000, he became head chef just two years later, and has stayed on ever since. Standing at the crossroads, Reinhold Wrobel likes to forge connections between tradition and modernity, linking regional ingredients to current trends. “And always with an element of surprise,” he modestly adds. Not the type of man who’s accustomed to being on magazine covers, he’s not very talkative; he’s precise and determined… and gifted with a “very Swiss” consistency. Meats, fish, vegetables, nothing escapes his technique and inspiration. “My hobbyhorse is

A warm chalet atmosphere, delicious cuisine, and an incredible view of the Matterhorn: welcome to Saveurs.

cold appetizers, as I find they allow for maximum creativity. I like to explore the contrast of flavours and textures; somewhere between sweet and salty, creamy and crunchy, raw and cooked, spicy and mild.” THE ICONIC COQ AU VIN VALAISAN “We try to buy all of our ingredients within a 150 km radius,” explains the chef. Almost everything used in the restaurant is Swiss and often from Valais, including Alpine zander, perch filets from Raron, and dried meats that come from Molinari Sempione in the Simplon region. The signature dish? The coq au vin, raised on corn in Valais and marinated for two days in pinot noir (with spices and vegetables), before being slow cooked for seven hours at 69° C, served accompanied by mashed potatoes and root vegetables. It’s complex to prepare but very easy to enjoy! Practically everything else changes in relation to what’s available at the market and the chef’s inspiration, which is always evident in the 4-course tasting menu that changes every day. An appealing vegetarian option has recently been added to the menu, which also features local Valais and Swiss ingredients.

A WINE CELLAR FOR WINE LOVERS The Metry family has wine in their blood. In Varen, on the other side of the Rhône valley (with perfect sun exposure), the family has been cultivating acres of Pinot Noir and Fendant for four generations. It’s a small production: they only produce 2,000 bottles a year, no more. A passionate wine lover, Sebastian Metry has assembled an exceptional wine cellar containing over 5,000 bottles, including more than 80 wines from Valais just waiting to be discovered, and top wines from the Bordeaux region, including Chateau Petrus 1988. “We have many super highquality wines,” specified Sebastian. Want to taste them? Nothing could be easier: in both the Saveurs restaurant and the Uncorked bar, the house offers an incredible selection by the glass, including some delightful grands crus. Lucky wine lovers and regulars may even get a personal invitation into the wine cellar with Sebastien for a tasting among connoisseurs. It’s all part of the warm and welcoming spirit of the Chalet Hotel Schönegg. schonegg.ch

Zermatt at the peak of fame A record numbers of visits Text Daniel Bauchervez Photos Pascal Gertschen

Last year’s numbers were excellent, but this year’s numbers are even better! The glorious views, fresh mountain air, and pure serenity of being in nature allow Zermatt to capture hearts around the world… and set new record numbers of visits since the global pandemic. How can one resist? The worldwide desire to travel to authentic, nature-first destinations has never been higher. Topping the list, Zermatt offers what other destinations lack: beauty, natural grandeur, purity, calm, and the distinct sensation of closing one door to open another that is free from the stresses and worries of everyday life. A WINNING STRATEGY Far from being half-hearted, all assessments are wildly enthusiastic, placing Zermatt well above any other ski resort in the country. Zermatt Bergbahnen (ZBAG), the Zermatt lift-operating company, saw record numbers that hark back to the pre-Covid days, signalling an official end to the pandemic travel slump. Their 2022-2023 financial report boasted record numbers despite the war in Ukraine, the disruption of the global supply chain, the surge in energy costs, inflation, and new work benefits that gave 5% of employees an additional week of paid vacation. The Chairman of the board of directors, Franz Julen, attributes the bulk of that success to the 2018-2022 strategy, which

was built around three primary axes: the quality of infrastructure and services; constant reinvestment; and constant innovation regarding what the company offers — all of which allowed the company to charge a premium and thus guarantee future investments. The 2023-2027 strategy reinforces this same vision, coupled with digitalization, increased social responsibility towards employees, and an ever-growing sense of environmental stewardship. The station’s North American clientele begun returning to the station in summer 2022 and summer 2023 performed even better, with an increase in visitation of at least 10% (beating the earlier 2019 record). Even so, the summer season is not the main priority for ZBAG as it only represents a quarter of the group’s revenue. The winter months are the main driver of Zermatt’s tourism, which saw a huge influx of (notably) American visitors, largely due to the ski domain’s inclusion in the international Ikon Pass, a multi-station ski pass that’s valid around the world (11 countries) with Zermatt being the only Swiss ski station

that participates in the program. A perfect example of how Zermatt Bergbahnen’s forward-thinking vision has paid off. The same could be said for the artificial snow (that can cover up to 80% of the skiable area), which allowed the ski domain to compensate for low snow fall over the past two years and still reliably provide quality skiable slopes, thanks to the resort’s high altitude. A reality that was recognized when Zermatt was (once again) crowned as the “Best Ski Resort in the Alps” for 2023. PROJECTS PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE Over the past year, Zermatt Bergbahnen invested over 44.5 million CHF into infrastructure development. A significant part of that went towards a flagship project, which was finally inaugurated in summer 2023: the Matterhorn Alpine Crossing, which extended the cable car from Klein Matterhorn to Testa Grigia (Plateau Rosa). The new route allows passengers to travel from Zermatt in Switzerland all the way to Italy (Breuil-Cervinia) by flying over the Alps — a significant bonus for tourism (particularly during the

winter holidays) and a significant technological feat, as the 1.6 km cable has no intermediary pylons along the way. Another major goal for ZBAG moving forward is to modernize the stations and cable cars that service the route from Zermatt to Furi, which was inaugurated (on schedule) in November 2023. Add to that the work done at Klein Matterhorn to extend the summit’s infrastructure, various equipment purchases (snow groomers and cannons), and environmental restoration that includes projects at the sides of the Stafel glacier, which was impacted by work being done on the Kumme gondola. Investments for the 2023-2024 fiscal year have been set at 42 million CHF, half of which has been designated to finalizing the Furi gondola lift and its new administrative and shopping centre. There are also 4 million CHF that have been set aside for landscaping projects at the new Testa Grigia station and surrounding areas. matterhornalpinecrossing.com

Heinz Julen A multidisciplinary artist Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photos Heinz Julen | Kurt Reichenbach, Schweizer Illustrierte

Even though he hails from one of the region’s most prominent business families, Heinz Julen is a free soul who’s willingly nonconformist. An artist, architect, and hotelier, he wears many hats and has left an undeniable mark on Zermatt.

He’s someone who never does things the way others do them. Even his name, Heinz (not Hans), takes people by surprise. Its origins date back to the 1960s, when his father, who owned a restaurant in Findeln, promised a faithful-customer-turned-friend that he would name his son after him. That man was none other than Mister Heinz himself, of the world famous ketchup family! He was born on February 29th. A sign of fate, no doubt. With roots firmly planted in the Matter Valley, Heinz Julen grew up among three sisters, pastures covered in flowers, and a glorious skyline of Alpine summits. As a young man he loved drawing and painting. His first sketches were of the Matterhorn, which he displayed on the side of the road in Findeln, before moving into his first studio at the age of 16. He went on to attend art school in Sion but could not stay away from his mountains for long, so at 20 years old, he built his own gallery and art studio in the centre of Zermatt. Collages, sculpture, you name it — he wanted to explore it all and began to exhibit. In 1990, when he was only 26, he launched the Vernissage cultural centre. Its goal was to unite an art gallery, cinema, performance theatre, bar, and nightclub in a space where blockbusters, indie projects, and even old movies filmed by his father could all co-exist. But when he sought to furnish it, he couldn’t find anything that fit his multifunctional space. What he was searching for simply didn’t exist… so he designed it and built it himself. Next came his hotel Backstage, some chalets, and then lofts,

all with that same unique touch that lies at the intersection of art, design, and the magic of the Alps. GOD, THE MOUNTAINS AND ART You can have your head in the clouds and your feet on the ground, “it’s all a question of passion,” says Julen. Art and mysticism consumed him, but he was frustrated by figurative art, as “it’s impossible to make anything as beautiful and moving as nature.” So, he chose a different approach for his Mountain Cubes, making a series of 30 cm sheet metal cubes which he threw off the tops of mountains, later re-collecting and exhibiting them. The cubes were broken, bashed, and reshaped by the very mountain itself as they fell. “By releasing them to the mountains, I felt free,” recalls Heinz. More recently, Heinz Julen collected and upcycled other people’s litter by transforming it at random. Then a chance encounter with (the very well known) contemporary artist Peter Doig inspired him to begin painting again… this time, however, in his own way. His large-scale paintings represent the mountains and glaciers, or his studio in Findeln, but are meant for metamorphosis. The crumpled paper is later reclaimed and reworked into three dimensions. The action takes precedence over the object, an attempt to define the most important thing of all: “the mystery of life.” His latest creations will be on display at Kunsträume, at the Backstage Hotel, beginning mid-February 2024. heinzjulen.com

Painter, sculptor, designer… Heinz Julen is a prolific artist, who finds his inspiration in natural surroundings, traditions, and spirituality.

Zermatt fine-dining Panoramas and the best tables Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photos Grand Hotel Zermatterhof | CERVO Mountain Resort | Schweizerhoff Zermatt

Few places in the world can lay claim to having so many highly rated restaurants for so few inhabitants. Whether you prefer traditional, inventive contemporary, or exotic, Zermatt has something for all palates — with an emphasis on ultra-fresh local ingredients.

Quail breast with Jerusalem artichokes, coffee, and hazelnuts: a winning recipe by Heinz Rufibach at the Alpine Gourmet Prato Borni

The signature dish at the Bazaar by CERVO: grilled eggplant with tahini and pomegranate seeds.

Zermatt is synonymous with fine dining. Of the 150 registered restaurants in the village and surrounding hamlets, four are Michelin starred and Gault&Millau have ranked 21 establishments, for a total of 298 points! And that number only continues to rise, placing Zermatt far (very far!) ahead of any competition. To celebrate the area’s rich culinary heritage, Taste of Zermatt (tasteofzermatt.ch) organises a special gourmet hike to discover the best high-altitude restaurants, taking place on January 27 in Findeln. It’s the perfect opportunity to enjoy the other key highlight of dining in Zermatt: the panoramic views. Here, many great restaurants are connected to a hotel and most of them only open for the winter season, from late November or early December until April. CULINARY MOUNTAIN STARS When it’s time to eat in Zermatt, the number of dining options to choose from can be practically overwhelming. One of the stand-out options is Alpine Gourmet Prato Borni (1 Michelin star and 16 points) inside the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, which juggles two exceptionally inventive menus: one with a local focus, and one that’s very international. And don’t miss out on the wine pairing; Peter Zimmermann was named the “2023 Sommelier of the Year.” There’s also the very chic Omnia restaurant (15 points), which boasts a similar Alpine excellence with an emphasis on vegetarian dishes, although that’s far from the only options on the menu. At the Backstage Hotel, After Seven (1 star and 17 points) combines high-flying cuisine and a dreamy ambiance that was carefully crafted by owner-architect Heinz Julen, who is often present at the restaurant. Expect a menu full of surprises! Three floors down, the Diner’s Club (15 points) has reopened the legendary Vernissage in a relaxed musical atmosphere. The more traditional Le Restaurant (14 points), at the Mont Cervin Palace, offers a host of fish and shellfish delights with a French Mediterranean flair. At the Chalet Hôtel Schönegg (a Relais & Châteaux establishment), Saveurs (14 points) offers a four-course menu or a la carte dining, with a fantastic wine collection featuring many Valais options, and an absolutely stunning view of the Matterhorn, front and centre. Recently awarded a Michelin Green Star, Brasserie Uno (1 Michelin star and 14 points) proposes a unique seasonal menu that focuses on organic ingredients and includes multiple vegetarian and vegan options. Potato Fine Food Restaurant also emphasizes locally produced ingredients and wine from Valais, apart from a few (very) select wines from elsewhere. A more discreet option is at the Hotel 22 Summits on Fridays, when diners gather for a remarkable menu put together by Zermatt chef Alain Lerjen for

Soulfood by Alain. Signature dishes include a Fendant soup and a house-made brie with truffles. TRADITIONAL DINING IN ZERMATT Spending time in Valais and not enjoying a traditional fondue, raclette, or a classic barley soup with some PGI dried meats would be as silly as ignoring the Jet d’Eau in Geneva. Luckily, there’s no shortage of traditional restaurants in the station, most of which are housed in rustic, oh-so-charming wooden chalets. Topping this list are Restaurant Schäferstube, Restaurant Walliserstube, the Whymper-Stube, the Swiss Chalet (particularly charming) and the discreet, centenarian Café du Pont. One of the leading restaurants in this category is the Restaurant Julen, which graciously straddles the divide between traditional and modern-day cooking. At Ferdinand by CERVO, classic dishes are served in a contemporary setting — don’t miss out on the customizable fondues with pear or apricot brandy. Along those same lines, the intimate Saycheese! stays true to its name and serves cheese in all its forms (including fondue, of course). Locally raised, barbequed lamb is in the spotlight at Chez Heini (14 points) and at Im Hof, which gets its Black Nose sheep from the Julen farm. For more smoke and flames visit Spycher (where the meat is cut tableside, amongst hunting rifles and trophies), Chez Max Julen, at the Grill Le Cervin (14 points), and at 1818 Eat & Drink (13 points), which features decor by Heinz Julen. There’s also Sonnmatten Restaurant (13 points) where the signature dish is wiener schnitzel, and Filet & Fils that specializes in tomahawk steaks. There’s also the very locavore The Grill, that makes its own air-dried meats and smoked salmon in a decor of rich reds and deep greens. MOUNTAIN RESTAURANTS WITH EXCEPTIONAL VIEWS Up in the mountains are 50-some cabins, stübli, restaurants, bars and self-service options for skiers, sledders and mountain lovers to feast in the most beautiful of settings. The Matterhorn is often the star of the show in all its Alpine glory. And Zermatt’s reputation as a gastronomic destination certainly extends to these high-altitude restaurants, many of which are also rated by Gault&Millau and the Michelin Guide! Furi (1,867 m) is accessed via a 45-minute walk from Zermatt (or a 5-minute walk from the new gondola lift), where you’ll find Hotel Silvana and its Restaurant Gitz-Gädi, featuring rösti, fondues, dried meats, lamb, or even baby goat served as the fireplace crackles. There’s also Simi, with both traditional and modern-day dining options, and the Aroleid Restaurant (awarded a Bib Gourmand) with its

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Shake ceviche, a much-loved dish at La Muña in the Schweizerhof Zermatt, features salmon, passion fruit, avocado, ikura, aji amarillo, and samphire.

creative and vegetarian-focused dining (and which also offers pottery and barista classes). At the start of the MoosTrail, Restaurant Alm specializes in trout and is also near Ritti, which could be prescribed by your doctor for its rösti and fondues served in view of its stone-tiled roof and micro-terrace tucked in between the trees. One of the walking paths that links Furi and Zermatt passes by the adorable hamlets of Blatten and Zum See, each of which feature centuries-old chalets and one namesake restaurant. Zum See (14 points) is an ideal place for fine-dining, mountain cuisine (their speciality is chopped veal liver) and has a superb terrace. The nearby Blatten is über traditional, serving bolete mushroom soup with a Philo dough crust and hosts fondue nights on Wednesdays. Higher up, at 2,200 m, near the foot of the Matterhorn itself, you’ll find Stafelalp and its enormous terrace. Only accessible by ski (via the #53 red slope), the locale is run by Maison Matthiol and was recently awarded 13 points by Gault&Millau. Towards the east, the former Maiensäss of Findeln is one of Zermatt’s best known fine dining destinations with two restaurants that each have 14 points with Gault&Millau. Chez Vrony beautifully highlights local (often organic) ingredients from Valais, makes house dried meats, and features a creative menu and lightly-chic but very chill vibe with interior design by Heinz Julen, Vrony’s brother. Meanwhile, Findlerhof is known for its beautiful panoramic terraces, its mountain cheese ravioli, quiches, and its gigantic Matterhorn röstis. Three other nearby establishments are also worth a visit: the Adler Hitta, with occasional live music, Enzian, and @Paradise (13 points), which is now run by Vrony’s team.

But there are still additional options to explore! Near Riffelalp (at 2,222 m), the lovely Alphitta features a musical lunch. In Blauherd (2,571 m), the light-coloured wood of the Blue Lounge comes to life in the winter months with bands and DJs, serving simple sandwiches, tartes flambées, and burgers with a view of the Matterhorn. Upstairs, find the delightful Rothorn Ristorante Pizzeria, or opt to visit Fluhalp with its charming and retro mountain cabin ambiance, to enjoy dishes from Valais, fondues, rösti, homemade pastas, and delicious tarts. EXPLORING FAR-OFF FLAVOURS Given Zermatt’s international renown, it should come as no surprise that cosmopolitan options are also easy to find. With Italy just across the border, Italian options abound, like Capri (1 star, 17 points), Madre Nostra by CERVO (14 points), and at the more informal Vieux-Valais da Nico or Grampi’s (both with excellent wood-fired pizzas), and at the Chalet da Giuseppe. At the Zermama Bistro and Zermatt Kitchen (affiliated with the Aroleid), the entire world is invited to the table, between choleras (savoury pastries stuffed with potatoes and leeks), tapas, superfoods, and Asian flavour notes. Both also offer brunch. The hip Bazaar by CERVO (awarded a Bib Michelin) features not only a variety of Eastern-inspired dishes, but also a host of vegetarian options with a low environmental impact. For even more exotic flavours, head to Golden India, one of the best Indian restaurants in the country. There’s also La Muña (13 points) with its Japanese-Peruvian cuisine, and the only Chinese restaurant in Zermatt, China Garden (14 points). You can also enjoy Japanese food at Myoko (13 points) — which will be moving to Hotel Schweizerhof this winter — and at Shogun, which resembles a Japanese countryside abode. Bon appetite!

The Patrouille des Glaciers returns The art of high-altitude skiing Text Daniel Bauchervez Photo David Carlier

The 24th edition of the most celebrated (biennial) ski mountaineering race returns April 15-21, 2024, linking Zermatt (or Arolla) and Verbier. The new brigade commander Christian Sieber sat down with helvet to discuss how the event has evolved over time.

Three people roped together traverse 53 km at high-altitude — the equivalent of 110 km — tackling 4,386 m of altitude increase with skis on their feet. Meet the Patrouille des Glaciers (PdG), an event that’s (in)famous for the sweat, tenacity, exhaustion, solidarity, and emotions it requires. The race was the brainchild of two 10th Mountain Brigade Captains from Valais: Roger Bonvin (future Federal Councillor and President of the Confederation) and Rodolphe Tissières (future Téléverbier SA founder). It was 1943, and they wanted to test the capacity of their men to defend the country’s highest borders in the midst of WWII. They chose the Haute Route course — going from Zermatt to Verbier and which normally takes four days — as the challenge to be completed in one go. The event ran successfully until 1949, when a three-person patrol tragically died, resulting in a federal ban for the next 30 years. Then, in 1984, the event was revived, opened to civilians (opened to women in 1986) and has been evolving dramatically ever since. In 1944, the winning team took 13 hours to complete the course. The current record (set in 2018 by an Italian patrol) stands at a mere 5 hours, 35 minutes, and 27 seconds. “ACHIEVE GREATER HEIGHTS TOGETHER” The Patrouille des Glaciers is now part of the Swiss ski mountaineering championships and the long-distance world championships, which “reinforces its iconic status as one of the most prestigious races in the world in this discipline,” emphasizes the new PdG brigade commander, Christian Sieber. Taking over from Colonel Schwery (the regional chief of police for Mittelland Emmental Haute-Argovie) as of 2023, Commander Sieber says it is an honour to be stepping into

this role. “As someone from Bernese Seeland, the mountains have always been part of my life. I look forward to overseeing this prestigious event and I feel both excited and determined. My primary objective is to ensure safety and satisfaction for participants. I hope the event will be a success for every one of our patrols and a tribute to their exceptional endurance and dedication. The slogan for the 2024 edition of the event is “Achieve Greater Heights Together,” which perfectly illustrates the spirit of unity that both drives and transcends this exceptional race.” A NEW ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE Over time, the PdG has grown in scale. At least 1,600 military members and 100 volunteers are enlisted every year to support the race. The 2024 edition also marks the start of a new organisational structure, which sees the army collaborating with the new Patrouille des Glaciers Foundation, led by the former Chief of the Armed Forces, Lieutenant General Philippe Rebord, and operating under the Canton of Valais. The army is responsible for the event’s organization and implementation, while the foundation coordinates PdG promotion and marketing. “A collaboration that has already been constructive and positive since the planning stages,” says Brigadier General Sieber. Regarding other updates, Commander Sieber adds: “There have been no other major changes since the 2022 edition. We are just constantly working to improve the experience for patrols and the public, while minimizing our impact on the environment.” Proof that, even though the race is celebrating the 40th anniversary of its revival, modesty is still a driving force for the PdG. pdg.ch

Zermatt Bergbahnen offers a truly original outing: accompany a snow groomer operator for four hours while they work their magic.

Spotlight on the snow groomers The solitary heroes of the night Text Daniel Bauchervez Photo Zermatt Bergbahnen

Without them, the “Best Ski Resort in the Alps” would be nothing but a daydream. They are the elves of the mountain, meticulously grooming the snow night after night, aboard their large, tracked vehicles. Join us behind the scenes of this fascinating job. Zermatt’s ski domain is unparalleled with over 360 km of slopes that cross two countries, at the base of the Matterhorn and the fantastic ring of summits that encircle it. And yet, the setting is only part of the reason why this station once again claimed the title of “Best Ski Resort in the Alps” for the fourth time in 2023… much of that success lies in the resort’s intricate lift network and the exemplary maintenance of its slopes. Their work begins when the skiers’ day ends. As the lights turn on and the stars take over the sky, the snow groomers slowly begin their ascent up the slopes. From the village, they seem to be just specks in an ocean of darkness at nightfall. Up there, their lights sweep the snow, casting artificial daylight. Their many tasks vary depending on the weather conditions. They plug holes; smooth bumps and any other irregularities to obtain a uniform topcoat; break up ice using the engine’s powerful blade and cutter; and cover all their tracks in a smooth white layer. The bulk of their work consists of moving all the snow that came down the slope during the day (beneath the many skis and boards that ran across it) back to the top of the slopes, while spreading out any freshly fallen

snow (both natural and man-made, which in Zermatt, can be produced to cover up to 80% of the ski domain). Heavy snowfall is always better than a thinly coated slope… No less than 30 of these machines make their way up the Matterhorn Ski Paradise slopes each night, in a precisely coordinated dance with each worker assigned to a sector. Seen up close, those small specks become monstrous 11-ton machines, powered by 390-horse-powered diesel engine and sulphur-free fuel to limit pollution. These expensive machines are difficult to master, and all drivers require special training. While the groomer’s large tracks offer maximum traction, the steep parts of the slopes require drivers to use winches and 1-km-long cables, which help prevent the snow groomers from sliding down the slopes. “It’s more of a passion than a job,” explains Sascha Imboden, who’s been operating snow groomers in Zermatt for the past three years. “The technical aspects of these engines are fascinating, but I also love the mountain’s calm and the exceptional view.” A magic moment awaits every time the sun comes up. matterhornparadise.ch

Zum See High in the mountains Text Claude Hervé-Bazin Photos Marc Kronig | Lucas Meier

Zum See has been serving delicious and authentic gastronomy for over four decades as one of Zermatt’s most famous high-altitude restaurants. Join us for a conversation with Zum See’s friendly owners, Max & Greti, and their son and daughter-inlaw, Markus & Marion, who now run the restaurant.

There are no roads here, just narrow walking paths or the nearby ski slopes. Zum See is a small hamlet composed of 30-some stone-roof chalets, stables and larch wood barns that have been blackened over time, poised in a 1,760-metrehigh Alpine pasture. In the distance, the peak of the Matterhorn rises high above a thicket of protective Larch trees, like an iconic postcard view of Valais, frozen in time. The modern Furi gondola lift is just a 15-minute walk away but seems light years ahead in time. In December 1976, Max and Greti came to Zermatt for the winter. He’s German and was working as a sauce chef at the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, she’s Austrian and was working as a server at the Walliserhof. The couple had been together for four years and visited Switzerland often. This time, they decided to stay. Two years later they had their first child. In their free time, the young couple enjoyed long strolls in the hills above Zermatt, where they fell in love with Zum See and its modest namesake restaurant, which was run by the Taugwalder family. Time passed and Max became a chef at Hotel Pollux working with a large network of suppliers. Suddenly, in 1984, their dream became a reality: despite their modest finances and having three small children to care for, Max and Greti decided to take on the challenge of running Zum See.

After Verbier and Zermatt, we now welcome you to explore our Geneva edition in all its glory. Here amongst these pages, the essence of Switzerland has been brought to life through the grandeur, beauty, and spirit of the country.

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The Mennig family, together at Zum See restaurant: (L-R) Marion, Markus, and their parents Max and Greti.

WHERE TRADITION AND AUTHENTICITY REIGN Back then, mountain restaurants were very rustic, serving hearty dishes like rösti, croûtes au fromage, or bratwurst to hikers and skiers. Max and Greti saw an opportunity. “We also wanted to offer a selection of finer dining options. “Since the beginning, we’ve been making our own pasta and serving dishes like soups, vegetables, salads, veal liver, lamb filet, and even, on occasion, smoked salmon,” they explained. Their plan worked, and with their success the menu evolved even further. Today more than ever, fresh ingredients are the star of the show. The fish is imported daily from Zurich, the meat is delivered by Matterhorn Fleisch AG, and most of the wines they serve are from Valais. “I like to describe our cooking as truly authentic,” says Max. Although other chefs have since taken over for him in the tiny kitchen, all the recipes are still his. “Our biggest focus is making everything in-house,” adds Max. “Our cooking is consistently honest and of the highest quality”. UNEXPECTED ENCOUNTERS Charmed by the restaurant’s authenticity, customers return regularly year after year, bringing children and grandchildren, and sometimes becoming close friends. “Some clients have been coming here since we opened, and we hear from others regularly.” Max and Greti have also welcomed their fair share of VIPs. One story still makes Max laugh to this day. It was a busy winter night at the restaurant, and to accommodate all

reservations they seated two couples (who had reserved two separate tables) together at a table for four. Strangely, two of the clients did everything they could to move away from the other two. While Max and Greti thought it was strange, they didn’t think twice about it. Then, at the end of the night, one of their regulars clued them in. “You didn’t recognize them? That was the king and queen of Belgium and their bodyguards, who were trying to let them enjoy an intimate meal.” THE NEW GENERATION Markus has been helping his parents at the restaurant on the weekends and holidays since he was a child. In the early 2000s, after receiving his degree from the Lausanne Hospitality Business School (EHL), he spent a season working at Zum See with his parents. Then, after a few formative years in New York, he came back again with his partner Marion. He couldn’t resist the call of Zum See. As time went on, the young couple settled in, got to know the regulars, and familiarized themselves with the day-to-day running of the restaurant. In 2022, Max and Greti decided to retire and Markus and Marion stepped in to take their place. “It’s a huge challenge,” admits Markus. “We can’t do it exactly the way they did it, because times have changed and we’re not the same people we used to be. But Marion and I will do all that we can to carry on their legacy and famous warm welcome.” Their mission? “To make every one of our visitors smile.” zumsee.ch

Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II Yellow gold is finally making a comeback! This now restyled model is available in two new versions, one that’s bicoloured in steel and gold, and a second which is entirely decked out in famously flamboyant yellow gold. Both versions feature a beautiful, never-before-seen grey and black ceramic dial. rolex.com

Tudor Pelagos FXD

Hublot Square Bang Unico Titanium

Longines HydroConquest

Three, two, one… dive! The bidirectional rotating bezel of the Pelagos FXD facilitates sequential course navigation (without having to come to the surface) thanks to the integration of a magnetic compass. Perfectly fitting for a watch that was born in 1950, specifically to meet the needs of a unit of the French marine corps.

Known for its disruptive and unconventional shape, this square-shaped watch from Hublot has been turning heads since it first launched in 2022. This new interpretation exudes Hublot’s core DNA of “The Art of Fusion,” with a show of strong character that’s brought to life in robust, lightweight titanium.

This model from the HydroConquest collection — which came to life in 2007 with watches that are waterproof up to 300 m — reinterprets the traditional dive watch. Boasting an entirely black look, it’s topped with a sporty case and bezel in ceramic, which is both extremely elegant and highly scratch-resistant.

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1. Hamilton Ventura Flex

2. Norqain Wild ONE TCS NY

3. Baume & Mercier Riviera 10717

Did you know Elvis Presley wore a Ventura? The world’s first electric watch now pays tribute to the King with a remarkably flexible bracelet. The atypical design and geometry of this piece give it a striking, rock’n’roll look, while the newly automatic quartz movement keeps track of the time.

Now THIS is a marathon runner’s watch that will really help you pick up the pace. Made of Norteq, which is 6 times lighter than steel (and 3.5 times lighter than titanium), it is also extremely shock resistant. Only 262 copies of this special limited-edition dial were made, which retraces the route of the legendary New York Marathon.

This watch is the perfect companion for any water sport enthusiast. Waterproof up to 300 metres, this powerful looking timepiece boasts a 120-hour power reserve, and its dodecagon-shaped, unidirectional rotating bezel makes it easy to calculate time spent underwater — a welcome feature for any diver.

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4. Piaget Polo Date

5. Chopard Alpine Eagle

6. Panerai Luminor Due

Both sporty and feminine simultaneously, the Polo Date can charm practically anyone with its beautiful 36 mm two-toned case. Made of rose gold and steel, it boasts 60 diamonds on the bezel and another 36 diamonds on the dial (3 per index). The interchangeable bracelet allows you to switch up your look on the go.

The eagle flies on high and sees all with its penetrating stare. Chopard captures the iconic energy of this powerful bird’s iris in the stunning finish of the Alpine Eagle dial. Made of Chopard-exclusive ethical rose gold and steel (composed of at least 80% recycled metal), the sky’s the limit for the seductive powers of this 36 mm beauty.

Looking for a modern, chic, and sporty watch, with a hint of classic Italian elegance? Here it is, in glorious perfection! This version of the Luminor Due 38 mm features seductive, racy curves, a sunray anthracite dial, and hands in rose gold and Super-Luminova, which subtly enhance the watch’s overall look.

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1. Moncler Ski suit for women moncler.com

2. Bogner Monte Voggo Ash backpack bogner.com

3. Rolex Oyster Explorer rolex.com

4. Bally Neasden derby shoes bally.ch

5. Scott Axis eRIDE FS 10 Bike 1

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1. Heinz Julen Sun Lounger heinzjulen.com

2. Zai Smoked oak ski zai.ch

4. Holmegaard Design with Light lantern connox.ch

5. Bang & Olufsen Beolab 50 Oak bang-olufsen.com

Switzerland is a peaceful haven, its mountains a source of inspiration, the contemporary architecture of its most beautiful resorts a unique place where yesterday meets tomorrow. Experience the quintessential Val de Bagnes and discover its breathtaking landscapes, winter and summer alike, through 288 exceptionally illustrated pages. Welcome to Verbier. You can order your copy on helvet.swiss for CHF 109.- (including shipping)

living the high life

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