#helvet magazine Zermatt | Winter 2019-2020 | EN by district creative lab

Zermatt The majestic Alps and the ultimate ski experience loom ahead and, under the snow-covered rooftops, time stands still.

Living the high life

Elegance is an attitude Simon Baker

The Longines Master Collection

T I S S OT B O U T I Q U E , BAH N H O FPL AT Z 2 , 39 2 0 ZER MAT T

TISSOT T-TOUCH EXPERT sOLAR swiss edition. POWERED BY SOLAR ENERGY WITH 20 TACTILE FUNCTIONS INCLUDING ALTIMETER WEATHER FORECAST AND COMPASS.

#ThisIsYourTime TI S S OT WATC H E S .CO M TISSOT, INNOVATORS BY TRADITION

Editorial The imperceptible tick-tock of (Swiss) watches counts down the days, hours, minutes, and seconds that bring us closer to the enchanting interlude of the Christmas holidays. A white winter is on everybody’s minds: that abundance of snowflakes that loyally drape the rooftops of Zermatt and the peak of the Matterhorn each winter season. The bells of the horse-drawn carriages tinkle through the air, boots trod through slushy snow, and ice skates scrape over the open-air skating rink, as the crisp evening sets in, marking the shift from day to night. The mechanics of time may be foolproof, but Zermatt is forever timeless. This intemporal parallel universe is tucked deep within a secretive valley, a place where traditions and values have not lost their meaning in spite of the world’s commitment to globalization. Here, men and women have been putting down roots for over 20 generations. Others have since joined them, and many talents have flourished here in the common pursuit to live the good life. It’s their stories we tell across the following pages: locals and foreigners who have made Zermatt their home base, their refuge, their remedy. Their stories represent a multitude of industries that embody the village’s eclectic and yet peaceful vibrancy, as seen in its hotels, its chefs, its winemakers, and its business partners. This is a place of rich history, but it is also a place of forward-looking innovation, and it has been for some time. Zermatt’s “green” strategy dates back almost half a century to the 1970s, when the village bravely pursued their visionary idea of a vehicle ban, going against everything the rest of the world was doing at the time. The people of Zermatt seem naturally blessed with inventiveness, powerful memories, and strong characters; model Swiss citizens, some would venture to say. They are also steadfast and resolute. Not to mention lavish. And of course, they are passionate spectators (as one must be when faced with that iconic mountain). But no matter where one hails from, Zermatt is like a smooth, healing balm for the roughness of everyday life. The search for happiness ends here.

Christian Bugnon

Publisher & Editor-in-chief

Contents 16

News

Winter 2019-2020

Sport

Skiing 2.0

Montbell’s

beneath the Matterhorn

Meteoric Rise

The Monte Rosa Hut Pure as “Rock Crystal” 30

Zermatt: Gastronomy Capital 36

Chalet Hotel Schönegg A Zermatt Chalet in a league of its own

A Swiss Winemaker in the Land of the Rising Sun A passion for wine 103

Glacial Traces 105

The legend of the PdG

goes on in Zermatt

Zermatt’s Green-tinted Glasses

The Cervo reinvented Steiger & Cie an Encyclopaedia of Mountain Real Estate 56

High Jewellery The diamond in all of its glory 66

High Jewellery Watches Precious time 75

Let’s go shopping Bahnhofstrasse 76

Portfolio Silvan Widmer 87

Heinz Julen

106

110

Air Zermatt The sky is the limit 114

Trends Watches 121

What to Watch Spring 2020 122

Zermatt Unplugged When Music Climbs Mountains 128

Trends Luxury

a Catalyst for Ideas

Editing, administration and advertising District Creative Lab sàrl I Place de l’Hôtel de Ville 2 – 1110 Morges - Suisse I info@district.swiss I www.district.swiss I Tél : +41 21 312 41 41 | Hors-série du magazine 30° degrés Editor-in-chief Christian Bugnon: christian@district.swiss Assistant Mélissa Hertzeisen: melissa@district.swiss Writers (in order of appearance) Claude Hervé-Bazin, Daniel Bauchervez, Laurent Grabet, Marie de Pimodan-Bugnon, Nathalie Cobos, Janine Vuilleumier, Christian Bugnon Photographers (in order of appearance) Marco Schnyder, Michael Portman, Zermatt Tourismus, Tonatiuh Ambrosetti, After Seven - Backstage Hotel, The Omnia, Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, Chalet Hotel Schönegg - Pascal Gertschen, Gian Giovanoli, Steiger, Silvan Widmer, David Willen, Montbell, Anoush Abrar, David Carlier, PdG François Perraudin, Air Zermatt, Joe Condron, Mauro Pinterowitsch Layout District Creative Lab – Tania Bétrisey, Samuel Galley, Simon Castro, (DA) Christian Bugnon English translation Karen Cooper German translation Sabine Dröschel Photo-offset printing Images3 Advertising info@district.swiss Copyright ©2020 helvet magazine, Unauthorized duplication/copying of all or any part of this magazine is strictly prohibited without the express prior permission of the rightful owners. Cover Silvan Widmer | Next issue: winter 2020-2021 I as part of the same collection, discover the helvet book: Verbier – magazine helvet Verbier | shop at www.helvet.swiss Living the high life!

news

Winter 2019-2020 Development © Rob Lewis

THE MATTERHORN,

FULL SCREEN

fully surrounded by panoramas

Well before dawn, amateur pho-

of snow-covered mountains

tographers gather at the Kirch-

and starry skies, three saunas

brücke bridge to setup their

were built within several small

tripods in the hopes of captur-

chalets. Built using traditio-

ing the Matterhorn in all of its

nal materials like repurposed

glory. In high season, the self-

Hospitality

OMNIA HOTEL

Millau guide. Then in June,

wood and slabs of rough stone,

2019 has flown by particularly

Switzerland’s Best Employer in

ie-taking crowd has become so

these new spaces include hy-

fast for Zermatt’s Omnia Hotel,

October of this year, this is one

large that it has at times spilled

dro-massage showers, relaxa-

which received its 5-star supe-

establishment dedicated to the

into the road, causing traffic de-

tion areas, a lounge, and a mas-

rior ranking at the end of 2018.

highest level of service for its

lays. That will no longer be the

sage room that’s around 200 m2.

In February 2019, the establish-

clientele, while simultaniously

case thanks to an enlarged pan-

Added bonus: the Silvana’s

ment’s restaurant was awarded

caring deeply for its employees.

oramic viewing platform built

proposed wellness services are

its first Michelin star, before

What more proof do you need?

in summer 2019. The platform’s

available to hotel guests and

being awarded one additional

www.the-omnia.com

metal staircase has additional-

non-hotel guests alike.

point (for a total of 15) in this

ly been replaced by an elevator

www.hotelsilvana.ch

year’s edition of the Gault&-

that connects the embankment to the belvedere, which can now even be accessed by bike. www.zermatt.ch

Wellness

PAMPERING

during the 26th Annual World Travel Awards, the Omnia was named Switzerland’s Leading Boutique Hotel (for the third consecutive year!). Also named

Special Events

ZERMATT:

HOME

OF THE QUEENS

UNLIMITED

Winter may have just started,

This autumn, the Silvana

thinking about summer. On July

Mountain Hotel upgraded their

19, 2020, Zermatt will welcome

spa (the wellness-spot that’s

the Sommerstechfest (summer

the closest to the Matterhorn),

Ring Cow Fight), where 100

which reopens on December 5.

Herens cows will fight for their

In addition to the existing 34°C

place in the herd’s hierarchy, at

covered pool, which is delight-

the base of the Matterhorn, to

but it’s never too early to start

earn the title of “Queen.” The

claw-foot bathtub, a view of the

preliminary rounds start at

Matterhorn, and (of course) a

09:30, with the final fights ta-

delightful fondue dinner as part

king place around 15:00. Music

of the package. On the upper le-

and Valais culinary specialties

vel, Pool Position is a modular

will naturally be part of the

option, ranging from 25 to 67

day’s festivities.

m2, with private Jacuzzi(s), and

www.raceherens.ch

a sauna. The Zer Mama Bistro

Transport

HORSE

MAIL

is open everyday from 7:0022:00, serving “glocal” food options (local and international specialties), complete with a sun-drenched terrace. www.hotelmamazermatt.ch

In an era when online shopping

Tourism

is becoming increasing popu-

MY MATTERHORN

MOVIE

SwissPass number. And if the

of November 2019, located at 7b

on Bahnhofstrasse have only

weather is less than ideal, it’s

Bahnhofstrasse. The boutique

continued to rise… a potential

Social media lovers will be de-

now also possible to choose an

is home to iconic works by this

problem, as the street is closed

lighted: the Gornergrat Train

alternate video shot in perfect

creator (who lets his imagina-

to circulation (even for electric

is now offering a personalized

conditions.

tion flow free), and includes

cars) every afternoon. To ad-

video service of the climb. The

www.gornergrat.ch/mymatterhorn

artworks, tables and chairs,

dress the issue, local authorities

little red train takes 33 minutes

have partnered with delivery

to reach the iconic Gornergrat

company Alpin Cargo to find an

summit (3,089 m). Once at the

innovative solution: horse-driv-

summit, one simply has to take

en carts, which have been grant-

a selfie in the designated area

ed access since September, will

(with the Matterhorn in the

now ensure packages are deliv-

background, of course), and it

ered to their destinations.

will automatically be integrated

lar, the number of packages that need delivering every day

Hospitality

MAMA

into the video. The video can then be downloaded upon return by using the one’s ticket or

light fixtures, and clothing.

Shopping

The shop is open every day, and

ZERMATT

products made by other arti-

SELEC-

TION

also features local high-quality sans and artists in the Zermatt region. The building doubles as an art space extension of the Kunsträume Zermatt, one of the station’s principal contemporary

Zermatt artist Heinz Julen ope-

art galleries.

ned a new boutique at the end

www.heinzjulen.com

MIA

Matterstrasse 23. Goodbye Hotel Admiral, hello Hotel Mama Zermatt. The Julen family (with Sandrine at the helm) is behind this new small-but-elegant establishment, which counts 29 cosy rooms that shine a spotlight on their natural construction materials. The standard doubles are reasonably priced, but those looking for more can always enjoy the Sweet Matterhorn room (45 m2), complete with a

Hospitality

EVOLUTION

AT THE

news

PARKHOTEL

BEAU

SITE

The centrally-located, 4-star superior Parkhotel Beau Site is

men and women who loved their

one of Zermatt’s great dames of

alpine pastures, as the rise of

the hotel industry, and is best

tourism and alpinism swept

known for its exceptional ser-

this small village up in its wake.

vice. But instead of resting on

Besides, you haven’t really seen

their laurels, the team behind

Zermatt until you’ve seen proof

the establishment decided to

of the first historic ascent of the

complete renovations this au-

Matterhorn.

tumn, including a refresh of the

www.zermatt.ch

entrance hall, lobby, bar, and dining areas within the Belle Époque building. A new concept has also been added: a grill over a wood-fed fire for infusing meat dishes with that authentic smoky flavour. The Gornergrat dining room, where breakfast

Gastronomy

BIER BEER

now includes an open kitchen.

BIÈRE

www.parkhotel-beausite.ch

The Zermatt Matterhorn Brau-

and special buffets are held, underwent a total renovation and

Museum

DON’T

MISS

erei, located near the train station (Spissstrasse 11), has opened a new welcome hall and tasting room this winter season. The

Gastronomy

za, and takoyaki (ball-shaped

SHOGUN’S

sonably-priced, delicious treats

JAPANESE DELIGHTS

octopus dumplings). These reaare prepared by a quartet of Japanese chefs. The house speciality is ishiyaki, wagyu beef cooked on a grilling stone. The establishment is open for the season from December 20-April 30, every day except Sunday, from 17:30-22:30. shogun-japan-restaurant-zermatt.ch

Located inside the Continental Hotel, the Shogun restaurant goes above and beyond serving traditional Japanese classics like sushi, sashimi, and tempura. Here one can also enjoy ramen, teriyaki, yakitori (skewars), gyo-

Shopping

SUSTAIN-

ABLE,

FAIR FASHION

Hofmattstrasse, 14. Remember

menu includes all the delight-

that address if you love to shop.

ful house beers, brewed on site

At Olmo, high-end sportswear

with pure, local spring water and

brands have rubbed shoulders

without any preservatives or ad-

with Levi’s and Freitag bags

LANTIS

ditives. Notable tasting options

(made of recycled truck tarps

include the Matterhorn amber

and other repurposed mate-

(5%), the Monte Rosa blonde

rials) for years. Now, a young

The not-to-be-missed Matte-

(4.8%), and varying seasonal

brand from Aargau will join the

rhorn Museum is tucked be-

specialties. The brew house is

mix: Nikin. Nikin’s mission is

neath the village’s main square,

open Monday, Thursday, Friday,

to produce sustainable and fair

with the main entrance located

and Saturday from 16:00-22:00.

fashion, notably through their

in the glass pyramid that faces

It’s also worth noting that two

use of organic cotton and by

the church. Exploring the mu-

cents of every beer sold goes to

planting a tree for every prod-

seum is an adventure through

Zermatt’s Mountain Guide As-

uct sold as part of their “Tree by

Zermatt’s history, which has

sociation.

Tree” campaign.

been shaped by a slew of strong

www.zermattbier.ch

www.nikinclothing.com

ZERMAT-

Charming Swiss Hospitality

20 steps from Sunnegga

Matterstrasse 39, 3920 Zermatt — +41 27 966 99 66 — info@hotelnationalzermatt.ch — nationalzermatt.ch

news Shopping

YOSEMITE

options. The restaurant is open

below Furi in a charming XVII

everyday from 18:00-21:30,

century chalet with an enor-

apart from Christmas Day and

mous panoramic terrace at

New Year’s (December 31-Janu-

1,766 m. The keys to its success

ary 1), until April 26, 2020. The

are the fresh, local products

Sonne has also inaugurated a

that make exceptional Valais

brand new cellar bar (carnotzet)

dishes and that only occasio-

for anyone looking to enjoy a

nally stray into other more

delightful fondue dinner.

cosmopolitan, Mediterranean

www.sonnezermatt.ch

influences. The restaurant is open daily for the winter season from mid-December to mid-April, from 12:00 to 17:00. www.zumsee.ch

GETS A

Tourism

Zermatt’s Yosemite store first

ASSISTANCE

REFRESH

VIRTUAL

Shopping

SAUSAGE CUTTERS AND

GROUND-

HOG

has recently undergone major

At the end of August 2019, Ze-

BALM

renovations. The store took

rmatt Tourism launched a new

Specialized in high-quality,

advantage of the opportunity

welcome program featuring a vir-

long lasting products made

to reinforce its close ties with

tual assistant. Named Alexa, this

entirely from Swiss primary

three of its major brands: Nor-

is one employee who’s different

materials and ingredients, the

røna, Patagonia, and Arc’teryx,

from the others. Located at Coun-

family-owned company Pural-

who each have 50 m2 of dedi-

ter 4 within the Tourism Office,

pina (based in Frutigen, in the

Alexa is designed to relieve the

Bernese Oberland) has set up

Office’s human staff from hav-

shop in Zermatt in the Place

ing to answer simple questions

de l’Église. On the shelves,

that require a simple informative

one can expect to find skincare

response (for example, “How

inspired by historical recipes,

much does the train to Gorner-

wooden products fabricated by

grat cost?”). Developed by the

the handicapped in Switzer-

marketing agency Speed U Up,

land, and a surprising variety

the existing model only speaks

of groundhog oils and balms

German for now, but other lan-

designed to relieve back, mus-

One doesn’t end up at Max and

guages are expected in the near

cle, and joint pains. Grandma

Greti Mennig’s restaurant by

future. Merci, Alexa.

would be proud.

mistake. Zum See is located

www.zermatt.ch

www.puralpina.ch

opened its doors in 2000 and

cated floor space in the renovated boutique. The store also expanded its collaboration with the brand K2 to offer their entire line of touring and freeride skis. www.yosemite.ch

Gastronomy

TAPAS AT THE HOTEL

SONNE

Gastronomy

THE ETERNAL

CUISINE

OF ZUM

SEE

At the end of November, the 3-star superior Hotel Sonne, which is not far from the Omnia Hotel, opened its new restaurant apasTAPAS. While the menu includes classic Spanish delights, it also counts a number of small sharing plates from all four corners of the globe (think Italy, Thailand, etc.). Meat-lovers and vegetarians alike will delight in the variety of menu

Skiing 2.0 beneath the Matterhorn Text: Laurent Grabet

Previous page: The Matterhorn serves as a stunning backdrop, no matter where one chooses to ski in Zermatt. Photo: Marco Schnyder

The Matterhorn ski paradise is Europe’s highest skiable area, with some sections reaching altitudes up to 3,899 m. The area is also a favourite among winter sport enthusiasts and earned Zermatt the title of “Best Ski Resort” for the third time. Here’s why. It is not by chance that Zermatt has been named the “Best Ski Resort” in the world by Snow-Online, placing above its Alpine counterparts for the third time following a detailed survey of some 50,000 skiers. In Zermatt, one can feel that things are different from the offset. Here one reaches the slopes by train as cars are forbidden in the station, an important detail in our increasingly ecologically-conscious world. Despite the lack of automobiles, it is incredible easy to access the slopes: four different transportation options are available from the village centre (train, funicular, gondola, or cable car), connecting skiers directly to different areas of this incredible mountain kingdom.

Touch the Sky In Zermatt, skiers evolve in unison with the high mountain terrain. The local ski area is the highest in Europe and it’s at least partially accessible 365 days a year, which draws many national teams to its slopes for preparation before the season opens. The Matterhorn ski area stretches from Rothorn (3,103 m) to Schwarzsee (2,583 m), via Gornergrat (3,089 m) and the Matterhorn ski paradise (3,883 m), which is also known as Klein Matterhorn and which has a newly-inaugurated T3 cable car system available as of last year. Despite what one may think, the highest point of the ski area is not located at the first arrival station, but is actually near the Italian border at the top of the modest Gobba di Rollin ski lift (3,899 m). From there, the descent into Zermatt covers an astounding 2,279 m drop in altitude, a delight for experienced skiers (and a fear-inducing adventure for the less experienced). As an added bonus, there’s sunshine at these high altitudes at least 300 days a year on average.

Zermatt’s ski area is the highest in Europe, which guarantees beautiful snow conditions every time. Photo: Marco Schnyder

Surrounded by its marvellous scene,

THE OMNIA,

remain never to be forgotten. This is THE OMNIA.

Michelin-starred cuisine

THE OMNIA, Zermatt – Switzerland, Phone +41 27 966 71 71, www.the-omnia.com

With 360 km of slopes and 84 lifts, the Matterhorn ski paradise is one of largest skiing domains in Europe and one of the most beautiful destinations in the world. Photo: Michael Portmann

The Matterhorn Difference The skiable area, which includes 360 km of slopes, is unique for yet another geographical reason: it stretches over two different countries. From the Aosta Valley in Italy, one can easily reach Breuil-Cervinia and Valtournenche via the Testa Grigia (3,480 m) plateau, or by taking the Theodul Pass (3,301 m). Zermatt’s 84 ski lifts are ultra-modern, and there are about 20 transalpine others that are almost at the same level. Just one difference sets them apart: the Swiss side can easily claim to have the best views of the Matterhorn. That view makes all the difference for skiers, not to mention that 38 of the 82 alpine summits over 4,000 m complete the panorama. There they are, no matter which direction you look, perfectly draped in white.

Ski Station 2.0 Those who rely on internet connection will be delighted to learn that Zermatt has free Wi-Fi on all of its slopes. A perfect setup for anyone looking to live stream their ski experience on social media. The station has made great efforts to ensure it can offer a solid 2.0 experience for all of its guests. These efforts include easy-to-access electronic resources for ski pass holders, who can look up real time weather updates, slope conditions, and lift opening times using the dedicated mobile app. And for anyone who loves statistics (we’re looking at you, sports lovers), the Skiline application tracks a variety of personal data like covered distance and altitude. www.zermatt.ch www.matterhornparadise.ch 27

The Monte Rosa Hut Pure as “Rock Crystal” Text : Laurent Grabet

Inaugurated in 2009, this mountain refuge is an inevitable stop on the route to the Dufourspitze— Switzerland’s highest mountain peak (4,634 m)— and is one of the country’s most famous, most beautiful, and most modern alpine huts. Perched at 2,883 m, on a natural terrace that overlooks Castor and Pollux — twin 4000-meter summits—, the Breithorn, the Matterhorn, the Border Glacier (Grenzgletscher) and the upper Gorner Glacier, lies the ultra-modern Monte Rosa alpine hut. The structure itself is a joy to behold, a true feat of engineering, and one of the country’s most surprising high-altitude, architectural wonders. Run by the Monte Rosa section of the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club), this high-tech edifice appears to hover on the mountainside like a “rock crystal,” one of its earliest nicknames. Built on stainless-steel foundations, with a wooden, spiral-shaped interior that’s covered in windows, aluminium siding, and a 180 m2 photovoltaic system, the building is 92% energy-sufficient and certified Minergie-P.

An Architectural Gem This living mountain laboratory was launched by the SAC in 2003, to mark the 150th anniversary of Zurich’s Federal Institute of Technology (ETH). After laying the structure’s concrete centre, which binds the heart of the building to the rock itself, a six-story structure (made entirely of spruce wood from Valais) was pre-assembled into 420 units, transported up the mountain, and pieced together on-site like a giant puzzle. It was high-precision work, especially considering that certain sections weighed over 1.5 tons each. The ultimate goal was to build an iconic, environmentally-friendly mountain hut that would be strong enough to resist the intense local winds (the building can withstand winds up to 200 km/h), while not sacrificing any comfort for its guests.

On the outside, the Monte Rosa hut is composed of graceful, geometric lines. Inside, one can expect a rare, high level of mountain comfort. Photo: Tonatiuh Ambrosetti Previous page: Zermatt Tourismus

That goal has been achieved. The hut can welcome 120 people in 18 rooms, made for 3-8 people each. But these are no ordinary mountain dorm room accommodations. Here one can expect good mattresses, hot running water, indoor bathrooms, and even four showers; true luxury when it comes to alpine hut standards (at the old Monte Rosa hut, hikers had to melt snow over a coal-powered stove for water). If that were not enough, an integrated microfiltration system cleans waste water, which is then repurposed, and an ETH-designed computerized energy management system considers weather data and expected visitor numbers to optimize the building’s energy consumption accordingly.

The Perfect Ski-Touring Destination This is one mountain hut that is never left empty. Reservations to stay overnight must be made in advance, particularly during high season. The hut will only be open in 2020 from March 13-May 23, and from June 6-September 19. The hut makes a perfect ski-touring destination. Approaching the hut is relatively straightforward for the experienced skier, crossing an exceptional landscape of legendary mountain peaks and glaciers, while the bravest, most-prepared visitors will take in the view as they climb the Dufourspitze. www.monterosahuette.ch www.neuemonterosahuette.ch

Zermatt: Gastronomy Capital Text: Claude Hervé-Bazin

Previous page: Fish, cucumber and beans Florian Neubauer, After Seven, Backstage Hotel

1. Gillardeau Oyster, asparagus, caviar, and puff pastry ice cream 2. Strawberry ice cream on a verbena marshmallow, with strawberries, pistachios and lemon. Hauke Pohl, The Omnia

The 2020 selections of the world-famous Gault&Millau restaurant guide have been revealed and Zermatt counts an impressive 242 cumulative points from its 17 qualifying restaurants. This record-breaking number is the highest for any Swiss ski station, well ahead of St. Moritz (14) and Gstaad (9). The latest edition of the Gault&Millau restaurant guide counts 870 Swiss restaurants recognized for their exceptional know-how, 96 of which are new to this edition. This marks a new record for the country, in terms of the sheer number of restaurants that were tested and approved by the demanding critics who compile this global gastronomic reference guide. Created in the 1970s, this guide came to life in the wave of nouvelle cuisine brought about by Paul Bocuse, the Troisgros Brothers, and Michel Guérard among others. These 870 Swiss establishments have been recognized for the quality of their ingredients, the attention to detail given when preparing them, and the ingenuity of the chefs. Zermatt performed particularly well. No fewer than 17 restaurants were selected, earning a cumulative 242 points, the same amount as last year. That number is 29 times higher than the Swiss average, in terms of the number of Michelin-starred restaurants per inhabitant. Although the cumulative score is the same, there were a few small changes: one restaurant no longer qualified, but another took its place; another restaurant lost a point, while two others earned an extra point and qualified in the top ranks.

The Masters’ Kitchens

At the very highest level, two chefs from each restaurant share the major accolades: Master Chef Ivo Adam from After Seven, the Backstage Hotel’s restaurant (along with Head Chef Florian Neubauer), and Salvatore Elefante from the Mont Cervin Palace’s Ristorante Capri (along with Head Chef Giovanni Bavuso). Together, these two establishments won 17 points on their own and have two and one Michelin stars, respectively.

Unique culinary experience Locally sourced produce is refined to perfection and combine with great sensitivity to create a unique culinary experience.

Open Thursday to Monday: 19.00 – 22.00

Reservations: +41 27 966 66 00 or directly at reception in the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof

Raclette potato with goat cheese. Heinz Rufibach, Alpine Gourmet Prato Boni, Grand Hotel Zermatterhof

After Seven has many surprises in store, both in terms of the kitchen’s creativity and in terms of the establishment’s décor: from behind a full facade of windows, the restaurant evokes the atmosphere of a New York-style loft that’s been improved upon by Zermatt artist Hans Julen. Here everything feels visually-baroque and quirky, down to the table service, which is highly thorough yet fresh (and never stilted). The menu is unique in of itself: dishes are chosen by the number of plates and the time one wishes to be seated at the table. Eating at After Seven truly transforms a simple meal into an unforgettable experience, including bread that’s baked directly at the table, and lollipops created by the patrons themselves. The restaurant is open from December 7, 2019 to April 12, 2020. At the Mont Cervin Palace, the Ristorante Capri —where Head Chef Giovanni Bavuso brings his cuisine from the award-winning restaurant Il Riccio on Capri here to the mountains for the winter— is also only open for the season, from December 18, 2019 until March 29, 2020. Here, the cooking has a view of the Alps but is 100% Mediterranean, with strong marine influences. Some highlights from the menu? The yellowtail tartar trilogy and the house-made tagliolini with lemon, burrata, raw gambas, and sea asparagus. This fine establishment offers a chance to truly enjoy the full spectrum of Mare Nostrum delights.

Reaching New Heights

Switzerland, with a special focus on Valais. Past menu items have included an amuse-bouche lobster and hay shot, mountain venison, an abundance of valley root vegetables, and a surprising selection of sweet wines. The Omnia, the signature restaurant inside the hotel of the same name, also improved their score from last year for a total of 15 points. Executive Chef Hauke Pohl, trained in the French culinary tradition, has created a menu that’s as contemporary as the hotel’s décor, with a balanced blend of regional and cosmopolitan influences, and ultimately defined by seasonal ingredients. It is also worth noting that Gault&Millau gave 14 points to three of Zermatt’s most legendary Alpine chalet dining establishments: Zum See, Chez Vrony, and Findlerhof… three more reasons to wine and dine in Zermatt this winter season.

This year, there were also two establishments that earned an additional point from Gault&Millau. This included Alpine Gourmet Prato Borni (16 points), located inside the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, which is open in both winter (December 7, 2019-April 13, 2020) and summer (July 4-September 13, 2020). Executive Chef Heinz Rufibach has made it his mission to highlight and serve the best local products from

www.gaultmillau.ch www.backstagehotel.ch www.zermatterhof.ch www.the-omnia.com www.montcervinpalace.ch www.zermatt.ch 35

Chalet Hotel Schönegg A Zermatt Chalet in a league of its own Text: Claude Hervé-Bazin / Photos: Chalet Hotel Schönegg - Pascal Gertschen

The Hotel Schönegg boasts a view of the village from its sun-soaked terrace, enhanced by the hypnotic pull of the Matterhorn. This prestigious establishment was recently inaugurated into the highly exclusive Relais & Châteaux inner circle, an esteemed recognition that places the Schönegg in a league of its own, as the only Zermatt hotel within the group. One doesn’t simply see a small piece of the mountainous landscape from the Schönegg’s immense terrace: one takes in a full 180° panoramic view of the Matter Valley, high above all of Zermatt’s other rooftops, tucked into the valley below, and directly within eyesight of the kingly Matterhorn itself. The Schönegg is a true wooden mountain chalet. In summer, petunias decorate the balconies. In winter, snow coats the chalet’s delicately sloped roof and trickles off to form hanging stalactites. The front doors open to an Alpine universe in every sense of the word: beautiful hardwood floors and furniture, delicately carved wood embellishments in the restaurant, the recently renovated panelling in the Charme rooms, and the contemporary touches in the Style Cervin rooms. To top it off, three fourths of the hotel’s 48 rooms have a view of the Matterhorn.

The Matterhorn is perfectly captured from the dining room of the Saveur restaurant. It’s the ideal setting for enjoying an excellent meal overseen by Chef Reinhold Wrobel. The immense panoramic terrace is a favourite après-ski destination in Zermatt.

HAPPY SPORT COLLECTION

A Family of Winemakers The terrace, beautifully named Infinity, becomes a stage for live music in April for Zermatt’s Unplugged Festival, assuming one arrives early enough to snag a seat. When it’s time for après-ski, the piano comes to life as the sounds of jazz or classical music ring through the air and drift towards the Matterhorn. The ambiance is relaxed, as patrons nibble on snack platters with a glass of wine in hand. But not just any wine… When it comes to wines, no one in Zermatt knows them better than the Schönegg. Sebastian et Anna Métry, the hotel’s lovely owners, brought a family of winemakers and a family of hotel owners together in union, and one could almost say grape juice is in their blood. For at least five generations, the Métry family has been growing grapes in Varone, on the other side of Valais. Enter the pinot noir and fendant, produced in limited quantities that just barely meet the needs of the hotel’s bar and restaurant, aptly named Uncorked.

There’s no doubt that wine is the true guest of honour here. The Schönegg’s wine cellar counts almost 400 labels, nearly a hundred of which are from Valais, tasted and selected by the Maitre de Maison himself, along with an impressive selection of wines from Bordeaux. Powering the ovens for almost two decades, Chef Reinhold Wrobel brings local products to life through the Menu du Marché (5 courses), which changes daily. As a lover of Asian cuisine, Mr. Wrobel doesn’t hesitate to titillate the palette of diners with a touch of curry, a hint of miso, or a dash of sesame. The ambiance features comfortable wooden tables and benches, lit by chandeliers made of bottles, topped with a magnificent view of the Matterhorn. All these elements combined are what made this establishment a natural fit for Relais & Châteaux, and ensures the venue lives up to the group’s token slogan: Creating Delicious Journeys. www.schonegg.ch

The Style rooms and suites marry the cosy comfort of a 4-star hotel with the rustic charm of an Alpine chalet.

The Cervo reinvented Text: Claude Hervé-Bazin / Photos: Gian Giovanoli

Leaning up against the heavily-wooded slopes, the Cervo looms over the village and the Sunnegga funicular station, the gateway to Zermatt’s skiable area. A distinguished member of Design Hotels™, the Cervo is celebrating its 10th anniversary by embarking on an ambitious transformation. In 1839, Doctor Lauber opened the first lodge in Zermatt with just three beds on offer (the predecessor of the Hotel Monte Rosa). Today, one of his distant descendants, Daniel F. Lauber, is working at the helm of the most intimate Design Hotel™ in Zermatt: the Cervo. Made up of eight independent chalets that each house their own spa, this prestigious 5-star establishment has been patiently building a small luxurious empire, and now includes two restaurants (the iconic Cervo Puro and the Ferdinand), the Owner’s Lodge penthouse, the Overlook Lodge (made up of five large apartments), and the Schali Lago chalet located on the edge of the small Schalisee lake, near Täsch. What do all these venues have in common? An exemplary appetite for alpine purity, brought to life through the use of warm and welcoming natural materials, and an assiduous quest for the best panoramic views, with the Matterhorn at the forefront. 43

(R)evolution at the Cervo Summer 2020 promises big changes for the Cervo. The hotel will partially shut its doors as it undergoes a modernization. The driving force behind these changes is the idea to delicately bump the Cervo out of its alpine shell and open it up to the world. Nothing revolutionary: the hotel’s infamous alpine chic style (which may very well have been invented here), will not disappear, rather it will evolve in a way that integrates more transnational, cosmopolitan influences for today’s mobile world, with the added goal of becoming more eco-conscious. The best concrete example of this? The lounge will become home to the 100% vegetarian Bazar restaurant, where Eastern specialities will sustainably be brought to life using the best local products from Valais. Meat-based diets are slowly falling to the wayside and raclette’s reign over mountain dishes has come to a end. Today’s reality is much more versatile; desires fluctuate in accordance with temptations. At Puro, the maison’s highly-rated restaurant that received 14 points from Gault&Millau, the menu leans towards the southern Alps, shining a spotlight on pasta and ravioli dishes with contemporary flair. Only the Ferdinand, forever tied to its alpine roots, will remain fully committed to its still-sacred manta: 100% pure, made in Switzerland.

A Remodelled Hotel On a technological level, the Cervo is moving away from fading fossil fuel-based models towards clean energy. Once renovations are complete, 90% of the Cervo’s electricity and heating will be provided by a multi-source system that includes solar and geothermal heat pumps, which tap into deep subterranean waters some 150 m below the surface. The psychology of the establishment is also evolving. A new swimming pool with a view of the iconic Matterhorn is being built in the spirit of onsen, Japanese baths, with updated wellness and massage spaces, and a yoga teacher will be on staff. The Cervo aims to break free of the restraining image of a simple “hotel venue” to become a true living destination, an incubator for ideas and desires, and a venue with a focus on personal development. The fitness centre will be transformed into a meditation room to encourage inner journeys, with Beyond Exploring as its new slogan. The former spa will be redistributed into four future Spa Suites. A new chalet will be built with some 15 new,

high-comfort rooms, complete with cosy contemporary decor at reasonable prices. The Owners Lodge, which is one of the most lavish options in Zermatt, will become more exclusive, as a way of extending the full range of offers available at the hotel. The renovations will be overseen by the interior design firm Dreimeta d’Augsbourg, and are set to run from April-May through November 2020. In the interim, the Cervo will be partially closed without fully closing its doors. Some of the rooms and amenities will remain open from June 26-September 27 as part of the Ferdinand Pop-Up Hotel (which includes a room service breakfast), offering the perfect opportunity to experience this incredible place without breaking the bank. www.cervo.ch www.ferdinand.swiss

The Cervo already offers many advantages, including a huge sun-kissed terrace with views of the Matterhorn and a beautiful ambiance that combines the best of the mountain spirit with contemporary finesse. More global flair coming soon!

Steiger & Cie an Encyclopaedia of Mountain Real Estate Text: Claude Hervé-Bazin / Photos: Yves Garneau / Haute Montagne

The impressive 7 Heavens, made up of seven high-end luxury chalets, was conceived by local developer Mario Julen, who called on Steiger & Cie to manage the project and take care of the marketing.

Zermatt’s real estate market is one-of-a-kind, as are Steiger & Cie’s unique brokerage activities. This exceptional agency leaves absolutely no rock unturned, handling every detail with the utmost care. In the early 2000s, when high-end luxury real estate development in the Swiss Alps was well underway and the popularity of contemporary alpine style on the rise, an ambitious young man saw an opportunity. Florian Steiger, a former CEO in the music industry, built a rock-solid team directed by Oliver Herweg in Zermatt and Nicolas Koch in Verbier, and Steiger & Cie was born. More than a typical agency, Steiger & Cie has always had ambitious goals: from the beginning, they sought to build an interconnected ecosystem that met every single one of their clients’ needs, both during and after a real estate purchase, using a vast network of reputed, highly-skilled professionals. 49

Beyond Brokerage Today the company has offices in Zermatt, Verbier, and Crans-Montana. When it comes to property brokerage, Steiger & Cie’s close and exclusive partnership with Cardis | Sotheby’s International Realty ensures this core part of their business resonates on a global level and is up to the highest international standards. In posh ski resorts where the luxury market is key, Steiger & Cie manage all kinds of real estate assets, from small apartments sold for less than one million francs, to rare chalets that can go for 25 million or more. Finding and presenting real estate assets is one thing; knowing how to truly highlight their real value is another. Steiger & Cie take great pride in their stunning (but never misleading) photography of featured chalets and apartments, and avoid using extensive retouching or deceptive wide-angle views in their images. The company stands by their belief that ensuring authenticity and establishing trust from the offset is the best (and only) way to build a business relationship. Both clients and partner notaries use the same key words to describe Steiger & Cie: honest, reactive, and highly professional. But establishing trust is just the beginning: in order to close a deal, one needs an extremely thorough understanding of every element involved in the decision making. Being able to find the right asset for the right client, means taking both a client’s nationality and budget into account, as the canton of Valais has imposed strict regulations on real estate purchases by foreigners, something Steiger & Cie are wellversed in. The company also has strong ties to the canton’s largest architectural office. Can we expand the building? Will the undeveloped neighbouring parcel stay that way? Have redevelopments already been planned? Steiger & Cie will look for and provide the required information. How can a foreigner obtain a residency permit? How can I finance my purchase? How can I benefit from a tax package? Once again, you can count on Steiger & Cie. Yet another of the company’s strong selling points: to answer all the questions that might arise, even the uncomfortable ones.

While Steiger & Cie also manage and market more modest properties, the 7 Heavens complex represents the best of the best and true next-level luxury, as seen by this chalet’s private wellness space, vast living room, and cosy bedroom with stunning views.

But it’s not all about selling points. Unlike many other agencies, Steiger & Cie is not here to simply push a sale and benefit from a short-term commission. The company looks further into the future with every decision they make to ensure they maintain their excellent reputation among current and future buyers. They will even go as far as to setup short-term rentals for clients interested in certain properties, so they can see firsthand if the property is a fit before making their purchase. And once the deal has been closed, Steiger & Cie is still available to coordinate workers and artisans for any needed renovations. Their vast network, which also includes relationships with local authorities, shifts the company identity beyond the realm of simple real estate brokerage and makes them a valuable community partner. In short, they are an engaged and committed companion, able to handle complex cases from start to finish, without mishaps and without wasting any time. www.steigercie.ch

Steiger & Cie’s office in Zermatt echoes the popular alpine style of many recent chalets and apartments, featuring wood, stone, and other natural materials.

A blessing to buy in Zermatt Why buy property here? “Because we love Zermatt, its atmosphere, its slopes, its year-round lively character, and, of course, for its view of the Matterhorn,” says almost every buyer. Some have dreamed of owning property in Zermatt all their lives, but once they’ve made the leap, they still need to find the right object to fit their needs. The market is incredibly limited. There are rarely more than 5-10 chalets for sale at any given time among the 50 or so real estate options available. Compromise is almost always part of the deal. Additionally, the process for foreign non-residents is not always straightforward: one can either invest in a hotel property or go through the process of obtaining legal Swiss residency, which sometimes means selling all other properties owned abroad. This policy was designed to ensure Zermatt’s future as a true living village, keeping property owners engaged in the local community and avoiding too many empty homes and “closed shutters,” as the village continues to evolve.

The diamond in all of its glory In an ode to the diamond, jewellers’ creations featuring this prized gem come in every form imaginable. Whether on their own or paired with other precious stones of colour, the diamond’s pure sparkles glow brightly, like dazzling rivers, and the high jewellery pieces of precious guipure and lace that unfold across the following pages invite us to discover new cultures, dreams, escapes, and other worlds, inspired by haute couture. Text: Nathalie Cobos

Previous page: Adler Kalambo necklace In the heart of a diamond waterfall glimmers an oval tanzanite stone, reminiscent of a lake of profound calm. Like shimmering water droplets, marquise and pear cut diamonds cascade down the necklace, interweaving with aquatic fluidity that’s elegantly completed by four final marquises. The run off continues around one’s neck, lending a delicate and refined mirror effect to this stunning piece.

Chopard Diamond and emerald necklace and ring, Precious Lace Collection Chopard’s Precious Lace Collection sets the stage with stunning diamond lacework designed to be the perfect alliance between haute couture and high jewellery. The result is a true ‘goldsmith’s wardrobe,’ where the ethereal lightness of the gem settings echo delicate openwork fabrics. This Geneva-based House further honours the emerald, in pear and heartshaped cuts, with these classic yet sophisticated designs.

Tiffany & Co. Tiffany diamond necklace, Diamond Collection: Miracles of Nature The legendary Tiffany Diamond, weighing in at a remarkable 128.54 carats, has only been worn on two occasions: first by Audrey Hepburn and more recently by Lady Gaga. This exceptional yellow diamond was cut into an unprecedented 82 facets, an embodiment of this New York jeweller’s exceptional know-how. For Tiffany’s 175th anniversary, this priceless gem was reset in this necklace of dazzling white diamonds. Although it’s not for sale, other pieces featuring yellow diamonds are available, and the Tiffany Diamond can be viewed as part of the company’s private collection.

Right hand page: Graff

Van Cleef

Diamond threads earrings, Threads Collection

Snowflake necklace, Snowflake Collection

Graff has re-imagined traditional settings with their latest asymmetrical collection, Threads. At first glance, one could think that these precious structures came together by chance. Yet the hint of chaos that forms this collection’s delicately-jointed shapes and angles is truly an intentional ode to freedom and minimalism, as embodied by these sparkling earrings.

This jewelled Claudine collar is a powerful homage to the great world of couture. This ethereal piece features an openwork design, reminiscent of fine, delicate lace. The beloved, sparkling snowflake motif poetically comes to life in diamonds, inspired by the beauty of a winter landscape and all of nature’s wonders.

Previous page : Cartier

Chanel

Théia necklace, Magnitude Collection

Roubachka bracelet, Le Paris Russe Collection

Delicately-facetted rock crystals have been transformed into unique settings for seven round Colombian emeralds in this breathtaking piece by Cartier. Here, emerald green elegantly collides with onyx black and diamond white, in rippling hypnotic rhythm. Taking inspiration from kinetic art, this unique design unites precious stones and mountain crystal in delightfully unexpected elegance.

Gabrielle Chanel was a passionate admirer of Russia, and that passion has long been a key part of her work. Her early 1920s collections included her take on the roubachka, a man’s tunic traditionally worn by Russian peasants, transformed by Chanel with a cinched waist and beautifully embroidered shoulders. Those embroidered motifs have further inspired this incandescent diamond and pearl bracelet from the exceptional Le Paris Russe collection.

Precious time White, wondrous diamonds of absolute purity, encased within the most precious timepieces. At times accentuated by hints of colour, diamonds reveal themselves in infinite varieties as part of watchmakers’ creations often unique, and inevitably dreamlike. Text: Nathalie Cobos

Previous page: Chopard Diamond watch with yellow diamonds, Red Carpet Collection 2019 This wide, finely wrought, lacework bracelet is coated with a perfectly-composed array of fine diamonds, reminiscent of architecturally-placed snowflakes. At the centre, the dial lies nestled between two coloured gemstones: light yellow diamonds on this model, and Mozambique rubies on another. The exquisite mother-ofpearl dial is further adorned with eight marquise-cut diamonds, arranged like a compass rose.

Chanel Éclat de diamant watch The camellia has become Gabrielle Chanel’s latest icon and this exceptional timepiece is formed of articulated, geometric camellia petals, each decorated with perfectly set diamonds. The heart of the flower conceals the watch dial, hidden beneath a stunning faceted diamond that can be removed and worn as a broach. This is a stunning example of visionary, transformable high jewellery, free to adapt to your every whim.

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi secret watch Exotic and enigmatic, a serpent wraps around this cuff and conceals a secret watch dial within its mouth. Inspired by reptilian scales, malachite hexagons adorn the flexible bracelet, which moves in harmony with one’s wrist thanks to an ingenious system of tiny hidden springs. A final hypnotic touch: two bewitching rubellites as snake eyes.

Previous page: Graff

Cartier

Diamond threads watch, Threads Collection

Maya watch

The omnipresent diamond, revisited with a contemporary approach, is brought to life by Graff in this angular and geometrically complex lattice of modern stitches, all connected to one another. This multi-layered structure pulls one into its surprising depths, attracting one’s eye to a dial completely paved in sparkling diamonds.

This refined and elegant creation radiates Art Deco influences through the chromatic symmetry of its green, black, and diamond-covered bracelet links. This small-sized watch delivers a powerful and unique design, using strong contrasts as its preferred method of seduction.

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Let’s go shopping Bahnhofstrasse Text: Daniel Bauchervez

It’s Zermatt’s main artery, its axis point, the essence of its being. This is the heart of the village, where boutiques, restaurants, coffee shops, and open-air strolls all come together. Stretched out between the train station and the Place de l’Église, Bahnhofstrasse is to Zermatt what the Champs-Élysées is to Paris and what 5th Avenue is to New York City: the place to be, that’s simultaneously iconic, timeless, and cosmopolitan. Six hundred meters of pavement covered in snow and ice in winter. Six hundred meters of main street, flanked with alleyways that flow seamlessly into the pedestrian area. Six hundred meters of pleasure and desire, accompanied by the clip-clop of horse hooves from passing carriages, and the resonating echo of the St. Mauritius church bells. Bahnhofstrasse is symbolic of top quality and one can only find high-end products along this famous street, many of which are made in Switzerland. Watches are certainly in the spotlight here, along with clothing and outdoor equipment, skis and hiking gear, high fashion, bakeries selling cream and chocolate cakes (recipes that have been passed down for generations), gourmet grocery stores, art galleries, and artisans singing songs or giving well wishes. Bahnhofstrasse welcomes it all. One wanders the street in total peace. The village is car-less, and even electric vehicles (the only kind allowed in the village) are banned from circulating in the afternoons. Most of the shops are open every day in high season, usually closing only for lunchtime and on Sunday afternoons. The Shopping Map of Zermatt has made it impossible to get lost. This large, fold-out map (220 x 630 mm), edited by helvet, highlights the ensemble of boutique options along the Bahnhofstrasse and beyond. It’s practical, easy to read, updated twice a year, and easy to obtain. Pick up your copy for free in over 200 distribution points around the station, including hotels, restaurants, bars, sporting goods suppliers, ski lift stations, taxi stands, etc.

The Shopping Map of Zermatt

www.helvet.swiss

The Zermatt Shopping Map is easy to find; pick up your copy at any one of the station’s main addresses.

Silvan Widmer Guided by the Mountain Text: Claude Hervé-Bazin / Text: Silvan Widmer

Previous page: In winter, the Gorner Glacier’s river of ice is most powerful, and makes man feel small in the face of nature’s glory.

The last of the sun’s rays drape the west side of the Matterhorn in their pink hues, as we take in the mountain’s triumphant north face, just above the Zmutt ridge.

As the day’s shadows grow long, Horu (the Matterhorn) is reflected in Riffelsee Lake in pristine, cystalline silence.

28 year old Silvan Widmer is young by all accounts. Three years ago, he brought his camera on a hike for the very first time. He was exploring one of his favourite trails on the Alpstein mountain in Saint-Gall, not far from where he lives. He hikes there often enough to feel at one with every river, stone, and blade of grass. He could not stop taking pictures, and upon his return, he reworked the images and was surprisingly pleased with the result. He found himself overcome by a powerful realization: photography could be used as a medium for sharing the many emotions he experienced when he was lost in admiration of nature’s beauty. Born and raised in the Toggenburg valley, Silvan has been a child of the mountains all his life. He loves the mountains. He loves Alpstein, Churfirsten, and the spellbinding Horu (the local Walliser German name for the Matterhorn). His favourite photo is of that epic mountain itself. “One evening, the clouds that usually shroud the mountain cleared,” he explained, “and as the sun went down in total and incredible silence, the mountain was bathed in surreal, magnificent light… It was a blessing, exactly the type of moment that feeds my soul. Those moments are precious beyond measure; no amount of money can buy them. Photography has really taught me how to experience nature’s beauty with greater acuity.”

Drones offers new perspectives; a bird’s-eye view as one flies unhindered over the mountains and valleys. Silvan Widmer at the base of the Matterhorn.

Silvan doesn’t painstakingly plan his shots. Nothing is pre-determined as per the seasons or the time of day. “I think the most beautiful images are always captured by chance,” the young photographer declares, “that’s exactly what makes them so exciting.” He is guided by instinct and supported by a healthy dose of patience, especially if he’s looking for ibexes, which are often found near many of his favourite haunts. Once again, chance plays a huge role in his work as these creatures are unpredictable and seeing one is always a rush. In Silvan Widmer’s photos, mankind plays only a supporting role. At times, man’s only purpose in his work is to reinforce the absolute power of nature which surrounds him. Humankind is simply a stepping stone, a ladder, a witness. The weather plays no role in his planning as the young man likes taking pictures in any and all high-contrast conditions; “everything except beautiful weather,” he exclaims. Silvan enjoys exploring every angle of the mountains. While he doesn’t rock climb, he is an intense and passionate hiker. He also appreciates capturing a bird’s-eye view using using his DJI Phantom 4 Pro drone, “always legally and in a way that’s respectful of nature,” he is sure to specify. He occasionally does client work, and cited recent collaborations with Swiss Tourism, outdoor gear companies, and mountain lodges... All work that aligns with his personal passion for the mountains. His plans for the future? Lots of walking and surely some travelling. One example on his hit list is the Faeroe Islands: a place where the mountains drop directly into the sea, in a symphony of stunning landscapes. www.silvan-widmer.ch 85

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Architect, interior designer, furniture designer, hotelkeeper, contemporary art apostle, and artist in his own right, Heinz Julen wears many unconventional hats. This winter, he is opening a new space that blends design with an invitation to explore. Bahnhofstrasse 7 b. If there was a Monopoly board of Zermatt, this address would no doubt be found in the dark blue sector, the most chic of them all. Right in the heart of the village, just off the main pedestrian street and next door to the luxurious Hotel Schweizerhoff, Heinz Julen’s newest storefront offers a full panorama of Julen’s creations. Here one can find his iconic cow skin armchairs and loungers, his light fixtures and his psychedelic chandeliers, along with his elegant wood and metal tables, all of which are built nearby in Zermatt’s old train station, which was saved from demolition and transformed into Julen’s art studio. Another section of the boutique is dedicated to the design universe of the famous, high-altitude restaurant Chez Vrony (located at 2,100 m near the Findeln hamlet), which was styled and decorated by Heinz and is run by his sister Vrony. Together, the siblings have created a space that represents their shared belief that the best of Zermatt should highlight its true origins, turning a cold shoulder to stuffed Saint Bernards and anything with a sticker that says Made in China. That aesthetic philosophy goes one step further in Julen’s new Bahnhofstrasse space, in an area of the boutique that’s dedicated to invited brands, local or international, who are featured for the authenticity of their craft or for their singular vision. Zermatt Selection runs parallel to la Kunsträume, Heinz Julen’s contemporary art gallery in Zermatt that plays host to five large exhibits each year at the gallery’s home base within the Backstage Hotel (open every day from 17:00-23:00, except for closure in May and November). Photography, painting, sculpture, installations, mixed media, and digital art are all welcomed over the course of the year. From the Bahnhofstrasse, a glass hallway (open from 08:00 until midnight) invites passersby to explore the gallery further by highlighting some of the most iconic works currently on display. The gallery is currently exhibiting German painter Dietmar Brixy’s (born 1961) large format gestural works, which incorporate powerful reliefs and dripping techniques that exemplify a modernization of the traditional elements of painting. The next exhibition will feature German photographer Stephan Verdino and a still-as-of-yet-unannounced internationally-renowned painter, who was commissioned for a special series of work revolving around Zermatt and winter sports. The boutique is open everyday from 09:30-19:30.

Heinz Julen a Catalyst for Ideas Text: Daniel Bauchervez / Photo: David Willen

www.heinzjulen.com 87

news

another perfect way to explore

cipants and it fills up quickly.

Snooc. What’s Snooc? It’s a sled

the area’s pristine winter lands-

There’s a waiting list for anyone

made of a seat that’s built onto

capes.

who doesn’t sign up in time.

a single ski, with a handle for

www.peppo-trekking.ch

www.matterhorn.ultraks.ch/en/

grip. Lightweight, comfortable,

READY

FOR ULTRACKS

Sport

ZERMATT

STEP

2020 ?

The next edition of Matterhorn Ultracks is already on the horizon. This annual gathering on the Zermatt trail will take place August 21-22, 2020, and five

BY STEP

race options are simultaneously

Have you ever wanted to jump

D+ 2,000 m), the iconic SKY loop

deep into the snow’s fresh pow-

(49 km, D+ 3,600 m), and the

der but find yourself unable to

extremely challenging EXTRE-

SNOOC?

take the first step? For begin-

ME (25 km, D+ 2,876 m) and

Rotenboden Station, 2,815 m.

rented along with classic sleds

ners or anyone who wants to

VERTICAL (2.3 km, D+ 655 m)

You may have barely stepped

at Rotenboden.

explore Zermatt’s slopes in total

races. In addition to these five

off the small red Gornergrat

www.zermatt.ch

security, mountain guide Peter

options, a corporate relay race

railway, and the regulars have

(Peppo) Bittel offers dozens

for three runners is available for

already mounted their sleds

of guided snowshoeing expe-

businesses, and there are two

for one of the most beautiful

on offer: ACTIVE (19 km, D+ 1,150 m), MOUNTAIN (32 km,

DO YOU

and easy to manoeuvre, Snoocs allow riders to turn or even carve simply by lowering one arm to the side. Snoocs can be

ZERMATT

J O I N S

IKON

PAS S Have you heard of the Ikon Pass? Created in the USA, it’s the world’s most global ski pass: it covers no less than 41 stations in 7 different countries, and spans 4 continents! As of this winter, Zermatt will officially become the first European destination to join the Ikon’s global network. Happy pass holders will have access to the slopes for five to seven riences. These range from short

options for children, WOLLI

descents in the Alps. Their

days depending on their chosen

outings (from Trockener Steg to

and SUPERWOLLI. Registra-

destination? Riffelberg station

pass option. And the choice is

Gandegghütte, for example) to

tion is open from mid-October

(2,582 m), just 1.5 km away.

tough: there’s more than 4,850

longer, even iconic, adventure

until the day before the race.

Beginning December 19, 2019,

slopes to choose from among

options like the Challenge Trail

Keep in mind that the EXTRE-

a new option will be available

ski station partners.

or the Panorama Trail. It’s yet

ME race is limited to 250 parti-

for winter sport enthusiasts:

www.ikonpass.com

Matterhorn glacier paradise (Klein Matterhorn), was only

news

the beginning of a much more ambitious project: the creation of a continuous cableway connection between Zermatt and Italy known as “Alpine X” (Alpine Crossing). Once completed, passengers will be able to cross the Alps from on-

Sport

NEW FUNSLOPE

high, almost without having to step foot on the ground. A similar cableway connecting

3 days out of 5, 4 days out of

Matterhorn, before your fresh

Testa Grigia (3,458 m) and the

6, 5 days out of 7, 6 days out of

tracks cut into virgin powder as

Matterhorn glacier paradise

8, or (the most flexible of all)

you speed down the untouched

(3,883) will complete the cros-

5 days at any time during the

sides of the mountain, feeling

AT SNOWPARK

sing, which is expected to be

season. It’s perfect for alterna-

as if you were the first person

ready for riders by autumn 2021.

ting between on and off days,

ever to conquer that run. Zer-

The Snowpark Zermatt is one of

www.matterhornparadise.ch

and applies to all of Zermatt’s

matt is one of the best places on

ski areas and Cervinia’s (for a

earth for a heliskiing adventure,

supplement).

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ICE

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Montbell’s Meteoric Rise Text: Claude Hervé-Bazin / Photos: Montbell

Kinobi is a stand-alone Japanese art that can be applied to all things. Its philosophy embodies the union of beauty and function. That philosophy is what drove Isamu Tatsuno as he climbed the north face routes of the highest Alpine summits, before founding what has become the biggest Asian outdoor equipment brand, found today in both Zermatt and Grindelwald. It all began with a moment of childhood disappointment. When he was 12 years old, Isamu Tatsuno was told he could not participate in his school’s annual hiking trip up Mount Kongō (1,125 m) because of his “poor health.” And yet the hike was not like climbing Everest: it was just a small tree-covered mountain, home to two Shinto sanctuaries where Osaka residents could experience the natural art known as juhyo (frost-covered trees). Immensely disappointed yet determined, the young man decided to make the trip up that mountain a personal goal.

What Heroes are Made of Soon Isamu was exploring every hidden corner of Mount Kongō, taking the time to walk every path often. Once he had exhausted the mountain’s dozen trails, he began exploring further, equipped with an old backpack given to him by a family member, his father’s old army cookware, a tent he bought with his pocket money, and a sleeping bag he made out of an old blanket. At the age of 16, Isamu read an excerpt from Heinrich Harrer’s The White Spider, which recounts the alpinist’s record-setting, first ascent of the Eiger north face route in 1938. The Austrian alpinist’s ability to triumph in the face of difficulty became a mantra for young Isamu. He decided he would do everything he could to become the first Japanese alpinist to summit Eiger via the north face route. Although he didn’t know it at the time, this decision would shape Isamu’s life around his passion for the mountains.

PHOTOCHROMIC

NO MATTER THE WEATHER

Léo SLEMETT

Back in Zermatt, Isamu Tatsuno climbed the Matterhorn once again, 50 years after his first ascent. Photos: Daniel Luggen

He began training on Osaka’s regional cliff sides. His list of accomplished ascents grew, as did his connections with other climbers. Together, they set out to tackle the Japanese Alps. His team paved the way, time and time again, in summer as in winter, and Isamu’s reputation as a seasoned adventurer grew in parallel to his list of accomplishments.

and climbing were growing in popularity across Europe and North America, just as they had in Japan, and alpinists were starting to tackle those same great peaks in the winter months. All those activities required special equipment, and Montbell was perfectly placed to supply the growing market’s needs.

Zweite Heimat

The Japanese Touch

In 1969, at the age of 21, Isamu Tatsuno and his friend, Sanji Nakatani, decided they were ready to affront Eiger. The two friends set off from Japan by ship, travelling first to Vladivostok (Russia), then taking a train across Siberia to reach Switzerland. By then, it was already too late to make history on Eiger: the north face had been tackled in 1965 by another Japanese duo, Mitsumasa Takada and Tsuneaki Watabe (who sadly fell and perished before making it to the summit). But that didn’t stop Isamu and Sanji from doing the climb themselves. At the summit, the clouds cleared and the duo found themselves transfixed by a different Alpine icon: the Matterhorn. That would be their next climb. Naturally, they planned to tackle the north face, the most difficult way to reach their new goal. The morning of their departure, Ms. Biner, their host at the Bahnhof Hotel, tempered their feverish zeal with a somber reminder: “Success is not making it to the summit,” she said, “it is surviving the journey.” Isamu Tatsuno has never forgotten those words. They have been his guide for every ascent thereafter, and helped ensure his regular, safe return to Zermatt each time, a place he has come to cherish.

In Japan’s humid climate, feather down gets wet and loses its thermal properties. The solution was an ultra lightweight synthetic alternative, which in turn led Isamu Tatsuno to Munich. There he knocked on the door of Sport Schuster, ready with the only two sentences he knew how to say in German: “Ich komme aus Japan. Ich möchte den Schlafsack verkaufen.” His products were an immediate success. Montbell’s merchandise brought innovative textile research from Osaka to life, helping reinforce the high-tech image associated with many Japanese products. The company released creations made of lightweight waterproof nylon, unlike anything the world had ever seen, and thus solidified their position as the leader in ultra-light supplies. More than 40 years have gone by and today Montbell’s motto Light and Fast is still winning people over. As for Isamu Tatsuno, he has taken to canoeing and white-water kayaking (he’s already won a national competition), and has been focusing on educational and social projects, along with sustainable tourism. One of his more recent projects includes developing “Japan Eco Track” itineraries for walking/hiking, biking, or kayaking across Japan, similar to Swiss Mobility initiatives in Switzerland. Under his leadership, Montbell also contributed to financing the Charles Kuonen Bridge, the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in the world (494 m), located in Randa (between Grächen and Zermatt). The Montbell Fund used annual loyalty funds from 9,400,000 Montbell members to support the bridge construction, which makes it easier (and safer!) to hike the trail, while also boosting local tourism. What better way to pay tribute to the country where it all began?

The Rising Sun When Isamu Tatsuno returned to Japan, he worked in a mountain supply store and founded the first Japanese climbing school in 1970, with his partner Sanji Nakatani and the first Japanese climber to have summited the north face of Eiger, Mitsumasa Takada. Isamu’s skill set was growing: he began working at a fabric retailer, where he learned how to manage a business and how to develop new products and materials. By 28 years old, Isamu had an abundance of complementary skill sets. The next step seemed obvious: Isamu Tatsuno founded Montbell (“beautiful mountain”), an outdoor gear and clothing manufacturer. The timing was perfect. Hiking

www.montbell.ch en.montbell.jp

A Swiss Winemaker in the Land of the Rising Sun A passion for wine Text: Claude Hervé-Bazin / Photos: Anoush Abrar

The Domaine du Daley wine cellar includes a tasting room, a cask storage cellar, and an ultra-exclusive cellar for vintages.

The Domaine du Daley was founded in 1392 in Lutry, in the canton of Vaud, making it the oldest commercial entity in Switzerland. An impassioned and fascinating man helms the company today: Cyril Séverin, who has returned the Valaisbased company to its much-loved familial roots. Under his leadership, the company’s wines have overcome numerous obstacles and frontiers in their quest to conquer the Japanese market. The Séverin family history is both full-bodied and well-structured. The family is known in Switzerland for their rapid success in pharmacies, championed by Cyril’s father, Marcel Séverin. In 2003, he used his fortune to purchase the Domaine du Daley, where his father and grandfather had worked for decades as agricultural workers, and he has since passed the reigns on to his son, Cyril. The young man quickly found his calling in the Domaine. Using all the vigour and Valais tenacity he was born with, he revolutionized the company’s production process and began to focus intently on high quality. It was the perfect decision given Switzerland’s high production costs and its unique climate and soil conditions, not to mention that it aligns with the Séverin family love for quality cuisine and fine wines. Despite the associated extra work and additional costs, sustainable agriculture and organic production have become a necessity according to Cyril, who is pushing “greater purity for greater pride.” Today, Cyril Séverin oversees some 15 hectares of chasselas, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, viognier, pinot noir, gamaret, cabernet franc, merlot, syrah, and plant robert (a biotype of Gamay) grapes, on a sunny, south-facing, riverside hill above Lake Geneva. It represents one of 1000 Swiss wine-growing areas, cultivated with a focus on small but high-quality yield, for a total production of some 65,000 bottles a year. It’s a mere drop in the ocean that represents global wine production, but it’s a sumptuous drop indeed.

Unique Vinification and Export Exclusives Grass grows freely between the cuttings, which are harvested in small, precise trays. Behind closed doors is a special threelevel wine cellar, entirely developed by Cyril Séverin, where the wine production process uses gravity to its advantage: the grapes are delivered on the terrace then transferred to fermentation tanks via trapdoors, where their juice drips down to wooden casks on the lowest level. It’s the only one of its kind in Laveaux, and the wines are elaborated with great patience. The reds are unfiltered and sulphur is used sparingly. “Wine reflects the character of its maker,” says Séverin. The 16 great vintages from Domaine du Daley are precise and ambitious, “of great finesse and complexity.” Among them, seven whites, including the Tradition chasselas, the Grande

Réserve chasselas, and La Légende. In a surprising twist, Séverin also produces rosé wines from older gamay vines that he describes as “juicy and aromatic.” Among them is Sakura, vinified as a white wine and exclusively available for the Japanese market, and, when the year is right, a pure Syrah named Sy. Both are incredibly popular in Asian markets.

In the Land of Cherry Blossoms To Cyril Séverin, wine is a philosophy, a desire to do well on principle. Japan places high value on Living National Treasures, and Cyril knew the Japanese would appreciate his commitment to correctness. But would the finely vinified chasselas, with a chardonnay structure and a hint of sauvignon blanc, go well with sushi? Cyril Séverin intended to find out, so he packed his bags and headed to the Land of the Rising Sun. He started out with his Swiss Sushi Wine, a unique fermentation that has since almost become the norm. It worked. Then came his pure chasselas and his pinot noir. Back and forth he went, Switzerland, Japan, Switzerland. Then he decided to open a branch in Tokyo. Along the way, Cyril made friends and grew his network of connections. When he met the hardworking Tsutomu Yoshida, a reseller of high-end Swiss watches and owner of the restaurant Yoshida, the spark between the two businessmen was instant. 300 bottles quickly made their way to Tokyo the first year, then 600 the next year, and 1,200 the third year. The restaurant’s tables saw the Daley wines proudly rub shoulders with wines from Romanée-conti and Pétrus — complete with a personalized label entirely in Japanese. With the guarantee of Swiss quality supporting their branding, the Domaine du Daley’s success took shape in large part due to the Japanese culinary scene, which was soon consuming upwards of 10,000 bottles a year.

Passion Born in Valais The Séverin family planted their roots in Saint-Séverin, near Vétroz and Conthey, just above the large Rhône Valley, where there’s no shortage of passionate winemakers. In good neighbourhood spirit, Cyril Séverin cites some of his favourite local specialties: Marie-Thérèse Chappaz’ biodynamic wines, named a “Swiss wine icon” by Gault&Millau; Simon Maille and Denis Mercier’s Syrahs; the diverse and unique particular wines from Domaine Cornulus, and many others. And while Séverin does ski, he specified: “I only ski in Zermatt because in order to ski well, you have to eat well.” And drink well, he could have added. In line with proper Swiss tradition, he has been taking to the slopes since he was six or seven years old, and he enjoys returning to those same Swiss slopes, season after season. His enthusiasm for Zermatt is infallible: “I think Zermatt is the most beautiful place to ski in all of Europe,” he exclaims, “and it has the best mountain cuisine out there!” What more could you ask for? www.daley.ch 101

MATTER HORN FLIGHT Book a scenic flight and experience the unique beauty of the mountains around the Matterhorn. Book now! +41 27 570 70 00 or www.air-zermatt.ch

Glacial Traces Text: Claude Hervé-Bazin / Photo: David Carlier

Glaciers are everywhere in Zermatt. Their icy forms tumble down the sides of the region’s 38 summits over 4,000 m, almost entirely surrounding the station that’s tucked into the heart of the valley. Here we ski well into the summer. No less than 22 glaciers surround Zermatt. Small ones, large ones, and one very large one: the Gorner Glacier. At 3,131 m, looking down from the sun-soaked terrace of the Gornergrat train station (just a short, 33-minute journey from Zermatt aboard a cute red train), one sees a landscape of white grooves and folds, that envelop the shoulders of Monte Rosa’s massif like a majestic, silken scarf. On the left lies the Gorner Glacier, while the right side is dominated by the Border Glacier. A clear view is never guaranteed, as fog often sweeps into the valley, obscuring the landscape, before a breath of wind lifts the veil. Stretched out over 12 km, and 1.5 km at its widest point, the Gorner Glacier is Switzerland’s third longest glacier and the second largest in terms of surface area (53 km2). In the same way that a river absorbs many streams, the Gorner Glacier pulls in many other glacial tongues from the sides of the Breithorn, although the Trift Glacier and the Lower Theodul Glacier no longer connect to the Gorner Glacier, largely due to climate change. Losing a record 30 m per year (with a record loss of 290 m in 2008), the Gorner Glacier is still among the most fortunate glaciers in the Alps, even if it has retreated more than 3 km since the end of Little Ice Age around 1860. Back then, the seracs enveloped the Im Boden alpine pastures. A similar fate has befallen the Furg and Theodul glaciers (where one can ski year round), as they too have retreated with time. Zermatt, thanks to its high altitude, is faring better than the rest of the Alps as its largest, most robust glaciers continue to resist. But their future is less certain. A study published in October 2019 by the Swiss Academy of Natural Sciences revealed a 10% loss of cumulative glacial volume across Switzerland in only five years. By 2100, two thirds of alpine glacial mass is expected to have disappeared (or 90%, if one goes off the most pessimistic estimates). This loss is bound to trigger a radical shift for ecosystems and humanity, especially for the many men and women who live at the base of these great, icy wonders.

Flowing towards the valley, the Gorner Glacier cracks and forms large, unfathomable crevasses.

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MATTERHORN SKI PARADISE

MORE THAN JUST SKIING

INTERNATIONAL SKIING

FOR EARLY BIRDS

FOR NIGHT OWLS

The highest skiing area in the Alps is also one of the largest and best equipped anywhere in the world. It is not only the top skiers who find the ultimate experience here, but also beginners and families can enjoy skiing on the 360 km of varied slopes as they thrill to the view of the iconic Matterhorn and the breath-taking mountain scenery.

Early mornings have a special appeal around Zermatt. With „First Track“ you can practise your skiing glides on untouched slopes while enjoying the first sun rays of the day. After the first descent you will be happy to indulge in the rich breakfast buffet offered at the Matterhorn glacier paradise restaurant. There is no better way to start the day.

On evenings lit by the full moon, the „Moonlight Descent“ will take you into the mystical world of the Rothorn, perceded by a fortifying traditional Swiss cheese fondue in cosy sourroundings. The romantically moonlit slopes and refreshing night air will make this descent an unforgettable experience. A wonderful end to a perfect skiing day.

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The greatest ski-mountaineering race in the world, the Patrouille des Glaciers has a budget of CHF 5.5m.

The legend of the PdG goes on in Zermatt Text: Laurent Grabet / Photos: PdG François Perraudin

Between 27 April and 3 May, 1,600 intrepid teams of three will race from Zermatt to Verbier, hoping to win the 22nd Patrouille des Glaciers, the most legendary ski-mountaineering event of them all. “The Patrouille des Glaciers is part of Swiss heritage. It’s one of the world’s greatest events, right up there with other flagship races like the New York Marathon,” says 58-yearold Swiss Army staff colonel Daniel Jolliet. The newly appointed commander of the Patrouille des Glaciers, his love for a race he has completed seven times in 18 years is clear for all to see. “It’s the greatest one-day ski-mountaineering race in the world because of its length, elevation gain and loss, and the number of participants and spectators.”

A sporting and military challenge like no other “LA Patrouille”, as it has become known, is a very significant contributor to the reputation for excellence enjoyed by Switzerland and Zermatt. It is there, under the stern eye of the iconic Matterhorn, where this gruelling 57.5 km race, running through the spellbinding but uncompromising world of the high mountains to Verbier, gets under way. Along the way comes an elevation gain of 4,386 m and an elevation loss of 4,519 m. Those numbers come as something of a surprise even to the people in the know, who believed the race to be 53km long and the elevation gain only 3,990 m. “The 2020 route is not going to be radically different, though the latest GPS tools have shown that previous

calculations of the length of the race and the elevation gain and loss were some way short of what they actually are,” explains the commander. The finishers of previous years will be delighted to learn that, given that their achievements have now become all the more impressive. By the time you read these lines, the registration period will sadly be closed. Only 1,600 three-strong patrols will have the joy of going down in history between 27 April and 3 May next year, in the long and the short versions of the race. Cheering them throughout the week and at various points of the course will be around 40,000 spectators. There were 300 disappointed patrols following the draw, but safety is one of the watchwords of the competition and comes before all else. The Swiss Army plays its part in guaranteeing it by mobilising with typical rigour and lending its services on the ground for eight whole weeks. At the height of the event, no fewer than 1,600 soldiers and civil defence guards are on duty, among them 200 army doctors and medics, as well as around 40 mountain guides and avalanche experts.

A major challenge No one can say if the respective men’s and women’s records of five hours and 35 minutes and seven hours and 15 minutes, both set in superb conditions in 2018, will be bettered. Yet one thing we can be sure of is that although the sole ambition of most of the participants is just to finish the race, this is a legendary event that is not to be taken lightly. Extensive physical, technical and even psychological training is needed to beat the demanding cut-off times. “The PdG is more than just a race; it’s a three-person human adventure, a journey through history, the mountains, friendship and emotions,” says Commander Jolliet. The Patrouille des Glaciers is an epic where the final goal is ultimately less rewarding than the path leading to it. That is something that those who have been fortunate enough, at least once in their lives, to take part in the solemn pre-race briefing at the foot of Zermatt’s church and then set off a few hours later from the Place de la Gare, know only too well. www.pdg.ch 105

Zermatt’s Green-tinted Glasses Text: Daniel Bauchervez

Famous for its ban on internal combustion vehicles, Zermatt has long been committed to the growth of environmentally-sustainable practices of all kinds. A refreshing exception for a ski station. In the 1970s, when the rest of the world was fully focused on the growth of the automobile, Zermatt decided to focus on electric cars, a choice sceptics were quick to denounce. But for the station, the choice was largely tied to the goal of ensuring tourism would thrive, while limiting the potential negative impacts of the industry on this beautiful, narrow valley.

The Zermattmobile When authorities realized there were not many electric car options on the market, they decided to invest in local design and invention. Almost half a century later, Reinhold Julen (at Jumbo Garage) and his colleagues Stefan and Bruno Imboden are responsible for the production of these vehicles, developed in conjunction with their work as mechanics. It was an enormous challenge to develop vehicles like a small pickup truck with a tipping trailer, or a fuel transporter, that would meet both the technical and legal requirements outlined by the village. It was also expensive: the vehicles produced in Zermatt cost between 65,000 and 120,000 francs, not including the batteries. Built out of aluminium, they are incredibly rust-resistant and have an impressive life span of 30 to 40 years. Their designs were almost exported to New York City as a potential replacement for the city’s existing fleet of 12,000 taxis, but the project was eventually abandoned because the Zermatt vehicles don’t reach high enough speeds. They’re limited to 20 km/hour maximum, the perfect speed for navigating Zermatt’s small village streets, but unfortunately not fast enough for America’s megalopolis “city that never sleeps.” Today, some 500 perfectly silent electric vehicles are allowed to circulate in the ski station, 40 of which are taxis. All other vehicles must be parked in Täsch and riders must take the 12-minute train to Zermatt which runs three times an hour. From the train station, visitors must walk to their accommodation, take a bus, an electric taxi, or (if they’re lucky) climb aboard one of the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof’s two horse-drawn carriages. 107

Welcome to theView

Chalet Hotel Schönegg | Riedweg 35 CH-3920 Zermatt | +41 27 966 34 34 info@schonegg.ch | www.schonegg.ch

Horses and recycled plastic Article three of the commune’s bylaws explicitly states that pedestrians always have the right of way in Zermatt. Even the latest modifications, agreed upon in September 2019 between the commune and the local transportation company Alpin Cargo, state that in the afternoons, any package deliveries on Bahnhofstrasse can only be delivered by stagecoach. But vehicles are not the only point of concern for local authorities. 100% of wastewater is collected and treated, trash is collected and recycled, and the use of hydropower is encouraged (currently 60% of the station’s energy is hydropower-derived). Eager to set the example, the commune recently adopted a new paving mix that includes recycled plastic. A first in Switzerland, although others are likely to follow suit as this new, more flexible asphalt blend is highly resistant to the extreme temperature fluctuations that take place between winter and summer. In Zermatt, just about everyone is onboard with the commune’s green initiatives. Numerous hotels have undergone eco-conscious renovations (including the local youth hostel), which, slowly but surely, are making a difference. The Zermatt Marathon has made a public commitment to sustainable development and the village also hosts the annual Zermatt Summit, which welcomes around 150 business leaders who have openly committed to promoting global business models that meet our world’s ecologically-conscious demands.

The Swiss Alpine Club faced similar challenges when they committed to two flagship projects over the course of a decade: the complete renovation of the Monte Rosa alpine hut (2,883 m), the first mountain refuge to be labelled Minergie-P in 2009, followed by the Hörnli mountain hut (3,260 m) at the base of the Matterhorn in 2015. Project guidelines included eliminating the use of diesel, integrating solar energy, and treating and reusing wastewater. Managing Zermatt’s ski domain, which is energy intensive by definition, is more problematic. Each year, the Zermatt lift operating company’s 68 vehicles and engines consume 1 million litres of diesel fuel. To minimize their impact, the company has started using “eco speed” fuel, which is more expensive but which reduces fine particle emissions by 13% and carbon monoxide emissions by 11%. Infrastructure cables, which have to be regularly changed, are upcycled for bridge construction in Asia. Any defunct infrastructure is carefully dismantled and the impacted area is ecologically restored. Additionally, local authorities have designated six of the ten local forests as protected sites, creating “quiet zones” (with an exception for freeriders, of course) so that flora and fauna can thrive. Here going green is not revolutionary. Zermatt’s green policy is one of small steps, which when taken day by day, contribute to change on massive levels and shape a future that’s highly-conscious of the environmental issues at stake.

A sustainability test for Zermatt’s ski domain

www.zermatt.ch/en/sustainability

It’s not easy to develop a sustainable ski area. And yet in Zermatt, such plans have long been underway: a dedicated working group has been tackling the challenge since its founding by the Zermatt lift operating company (Bergbahnen) in 2002. One of the first large-scale projects, finished in 2009, was to certify the Matterhorn glacial paradise’s restaurant as Minergie-P. This goal ensured construction was done in a way that would significantly reduce the building’s energy consumption. The building has since won Swiss and European awards for its solar panels, which provide enough energy to meet 100% of the building’s energy needs. The building even houses its own microbiological sewage-treatment plant, allowing wastewater treatment directly onsite. These achievements are all the more impressive when one takes the building’s 3,883 m altitude into consideration- it’s a true model of its kind. A second solar installation was commissioned in Trockener Steg in 2010. And more recently, this base station for the new T3 cable car (which takes passengers to the Matterhorn glacier paradise) was outfitted with 877 m2 of solar panels that generate 157,200 KWh each year. All this despite the difficult meteorological conditions of the winter months, which present numerous technical challenges.

109

Air Zermatt The sky is the limit Text: Daniel Bauchervez / Photos: Air Zermatt

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Air Zermatt was created half a century ago to save alpinists in distress and has since come a long way, with two Heroism Awards to their name and lots of experience to boot. The company’s 13 pilots, who each fly around 500 hours annually, are some of the world’s best. Its fleet, made up of ten aircraft, is one of the most modern and is incredibly well-maintained by a team of 12 highly-qualified mechanics and 16 assistants. The company, which now has three heliports (Zermatt, Raron, Gampel), continues to serve those in need and carries out an average of 1,800 rescues each year. As rescues are not profitable by nature, the company has also diversified and now offers general transportation services (55% of their annual activity) and a pilot school (5%), in addition to heliskiing and scenic flights (20%).

The Alps as Witness It’s often aboard an Ecureuil AS350 B3, a light and versatile aircraft, that one boards (heart beating wildly) for a 20-40 minute flight. Three minutes later, the Matter Valley unfolds and the blue-coloured avalanches of the Hohlicht Glacier sparkle below. The helicopter turns, rises, skims the top of a white-capped ridge, and flies directly towards the region’s most legendary triangular peak. In just eight minutes of flying, one reaches the Matterhorn’s hostile north face, plastered in ice and just metres away. The Hörnli ridge is next, with its alpine hut at its base, tiny and barely visible from on high. The helicopter continues to climb, hovering for a moment above the summit, before following the ridge’s edge. The Klein Matterhorn, Breithorn, and Monte Rosa sweep by on the starboard side, followed by views of the Gorner Glacier on the return journey. Another day, perhaps, will be the time to try helisking, seated in one of the plush, comfortable leather seats of an Eurocopter EC130 T2, until climbing out and breaking through the snow’s frozen crust, wading through the thick powder at the start of the run, feeling the rush of the icy wind from the helicopter’s blades. Imagine finding yourself up there alone, on top of the world. The best part is, it costs next to nothing: a drop-off at Unterrothon (7-8 minute flight time) is only 80 francs! www.air-zermatt.ch

Previous Page: The iconic red and white Air Zermatt aircraft, the colours of Valais, approaches the Matterhorn as it’s bathed in the pink light of sunset.

Air Zermatt is directed by Gerold Biner, a helicopter pilot who is living testimony to the company’s mountain rescues.

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watches

Hublot Big Bang Unico White Ceramic 42 mm Previously only available in a resolutely masculine diameter, the reinvented movement in Hublot’s Unico chronograph now comes in a slimmer design, which means it can be built inside a number of new watch styles that fit many different wrist sizes. This model features a smaller 42 mm titanium case set with 170 diamonds that surround a skeleton white dial. This timepiece’s airy, “colour block” style is carried through the full design, down to the structured, white rubber strap. www.hublot.com On sale at the Hublot Store

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02

Chopard Happy Sport Oval

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter

Seven free-spinning diamonds dance on the dial... You’ve seen this design before: it’s the Happy Sport watch. This year, Chopard is revisiting this iconic timepiece, originally created in 1993, with a new 31.31 mm x 29 mm oval format. As smooth as a rose gold pebble, this playfully elegant timepiece is powered for the first time ever with a Chopard-manufactured movement. It’s a bold fashion statement that highlights the essence of Chopard’s expertise, a perfect union for those who love watches as much as they love jewellery. www.chopard.com On sale at Schindler’s jewellery store

In the great squadron of available Oris aviator watches, the Big Crown ProPilot Altimeter is the first automatic watch in the world to feature a mechanical altimeter. The altimeter is displayed as a yellow indicator on the outer ring of the dial and measures altitudes up to 15,000 feet. Atmospheric pressure is displayed as a red indicator. These exceptional functions are powered by a Oris 733 movement, and are protected from extreme conditions by a robust 47 mm steel case. www.oris.ch On sale at Wega’s jewellery store

With this chronograph, Jack Heuer broke all conventions of traditional watchmaking and created a watch that, like the car race after which it is named, became a legend. The Calibre Heuer 02 automatic movement was developed and produced by TAG Heuer itself. With 168 components and an 80-hour power reserve, this watch is a high-end timepiece. This model features a carbon bezel and a tachymeter scale. The dial has a black skeleton and rhodium-plated luminous indices. www.tagheuer.com On sale at the Tag Heuer Shop and at the Bucherer Store

Swatch Lancelot The Lancelot embraces a total black look in the same way that it embraces the wrist in bold rock ‘n roll. But it is also a little “extra,” with two triangular gold studs that give special flair to the textured black rubber strap. This graphic geometry contrasts beautifully with the sun-brushed black dial, which sparkles with gold-coloured hands and roman numerals. This beautiful and rebellious watch goes with every style, the perfect touch to match those stilettos. www.swatch.com On sale at the Swatch Store

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Tissot Gentleman

In 1958, Tudor revealed its first divers’ watch, which was waterproof up to 200 m. The descendant of that historic model, the Heritage Black Bay Fifty-Eight, is nicknamed the “Big Crown,” and it has lots to offer. Features include a robust 39 mm steel case, an unidirectional rotatable bezel, a graduated bezel in matte black anodised aluminium, and a dial with easy-to-read markings and luminescent hands. And that’s not even considering its new Tudor-manufactured movement that’s COSC-certified and has a 70-hour power reserve. Enough for many, many dives. www.tudorwatch.com On sale at the Bucherer Store

Ideal for days at the office but also perfect for the week-end, the Tissot Gentleman watch can adapt to any situation. Its clean yet robust design features a reasonably-sized 40 mm case, a comfortable steel strap composed of three links, a blue dial with bevelled indexes, the date displayed at 3 o’clock, and luminescent dauphine hands. This multi-functional timepiece relies on a Powermatic 80 Silicium movement to stay precise, which (as one could guess by the name) offers an 80-hour power reserve. www.tissotwatches.com On sale at the Tissot Store

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watches

1. Cartier Santos-Dumont Watch

5. Rado Captain Cook

In 1904, Cartier created a modern wristwatch for the Brazilian dandy and trailblazing pilot, Alberto Santos-Dumont. Over a century later, the design still looks as fresh as ever. The square gold case is a throwback to the popularity of geometry in Parisian design of that era, while its new quartz movement gives it a modern 6-year autonomy. Visible screws, the beaded crown set with a blue synthetic cabochon-shaped spinel, the roman numerals, and the bluedsteel sword-shaped hands all elegantly bring this watch’s style to life. www.cartier.com On sale at the Bucherer Store

It’s all a question of details with this latest edition of the Captain Cook. Design details such as the sweep of the thick, arrowshaped hands across the curved dial. Or proportion details, like its steel 42 mm case that’s topped with a turning, ceramic black bezel and a sapphire glass dome. Powered by the C07 movement that has an 80-hour power reserve, and waterproof up to 200 m, this contemporary take on the original 1962 design is nothing but details for sports lovers. www.rado.com On sale at the Bucherer Store

2. Patek Philippe 5235/50R Patek Philippe’s Annual Calendar Regulator is a house speciality. This classic piece, invented and patented in 1996 with a movement that requires a correction on March 1 every year, has been given a brand new look by this iconic Swiss brand. Its precision movement is housed in a 40.5 mm rose gold case that features a two-tone dial in graphite and ebony-black with a vertical satin finish. The main dial hand displays the minutes, while secondary dials display the hours and seconds. A uniquely classic yet chic design. www.patek.com On sale at Schindler’s jewellery store

3 . Mido Ocean Star Want to take to the seas? Needing to raise the anchor and set sail? Your journey starts on your wrist, right here, right now. Inspired by the maritime world, the Ocean Star will take you on far-off journeys with its robust 42.5 mm PVD rose steel case, its unidirectional rotating bezel in blue aluminium with matching dial, and its sporty, synthetic fabric strap that’s reminiscent of sailing ropes. This timeless, sporty ensemble is powered by a Mido movement that has an 80-hour power reserve. www.midowatches.com On sale at Wega’s jewellery store

4. Frédérique Constant Slimline Moonphase Stars You no longer need to study the heavens to dive deep into the charming mysteries of a starry night-time sky. Majestically placed on a blue sunray dial, the lunar phases reveal themselves with grace, surrounded by a bezel adorned with 60 diamonds. The see-through back of the 38.8 mm rose gold plated case reveals the new FC-701 automatic in-house movement, decorated with Perlage and Côtes de Genève details. An elegant fusion of femininity and artisanship. www.frederiqueconstant.com On sale at Wega’s jewellery store

6. Norqain Freedom 60 Chrono Auto A simple glance at this automatic chronograph is all it takes to be immediately transported to life in the 1960s, with its steel 43 mm case, black dial dotted with white markers, domeshaped sapphire glass, and an aged brown leather strap. The Freedom 60 Chrono Auto is an iconic and classic watch design, powered by an automatic movement with a comfortable 48-hour power reserve, and there’s no doubt that fans of neo-vintage watches will fall for this piece. www.norqain.com On sale at the Bucherer Store

7. IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire IWC’s famous Pilot’s Chronograph features a telltale silhouette and exceptional usability that once shaped aerospace history. This new chronograph includes all the best of the original design and then some. It features a sophisticated 41 mm case and offers easyto-read standard chronograph stop functions (for hours, minutes, and seconds). It also features a powerful 69380 calibre IWC-manufactured movementa first for any of the brand’s pilot chronographs. Take off is imminent! www.iwc.com On sale at Schindler’s jewellery store and at the Bucherer Store

8. Longines Master Collection Aesthetic refinement and technical sophistication are at the heart of this automatic chronograph that’s as easy-to-read as it is complex. Not content to display time in the short term, the second hand and the lunar phase are displayed at 9 o’clock, the date is displayed via a central hand topped with a half-moon, and the day and month displays are at 12 o’clock. This harmonious placement is housed in a 40 mm steel case and, in a classic touch, the hands are blued steel. www.longines.com On sale at Wega’s jewellery store

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watches

Panerai Luminor Due

Piaget Possession Watch

Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual Carl F. Bucherer has designed a vintage throwback with this unique watch. The Lucernebased watchmaker applied 1950s design aesthetics to this chronograph, complete with a large date window and a BiCompax annual calendar, displayed on a beautifully symmetrical pink dial. This special edition is limited to 888 units, and although it was inspired by a 1956 model, the proportions of its steel and rose gold 41 mm case are very modern indeed, as is its automatic movement. www.carl-f-bucherer.com On sale at the Bucherer Store

The playful Possession Watch features a turning bezel set with 46 diamonds, that dance around the wearer’s wrist, adorning it in a smooth blend of sparkle and colour. We fell in love with the cherry-pink coloured dial, set with 11 diamond dot indexes and housed with a graceful flourish within a 34 mm rose gold case. The watch features a reliable, in-house quartz movement and an interchangeable strap, making it a true pleasure for wearers to keep track of the time. www.piaget.com On sale at Schindler’s jewellery store

Both technical and functional, the Luminor Due revisits the sporty spirit of Panerai’s military watches with a new touch of class that makes this timepiece a perfect match for elegant wrists. Its 38 mm Goldtech® case houses a new P.900 automatic movement. This calibre, one of the most refined movements made by this Neuchâtel-based manufacturer, offers an extremely comfortable three day power reserve. The cherry on top of the cake? The gorgeously glossy red alligator leather strap is easily interchangeable. www.panerai.com On sale at Schindler’s jewellery store

Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-vous Moon It’s often been said that women enjoy the lunar phase movement over all other watch mechanisms. Here the moon’s feminine pull is completed by 107 diamonds that adorn the watch bezel. The perfectly proportioned, 34 mm steel case surrounds a silver grey guilloche dial, where the moon majestically rises over a sea of clouds and a blue lacquer sky. The poetic rhythm of this piece is powered by an automatic movement developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre. The ultimate in irresistible refinement. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com On sale at the Bucherer Store

Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Do you like classic cars? If so, you’re bound to love this special timepiece that’s limited to only 500 units. Its bodywork is composed of a steel 43 mm case that houses a satin blue dial inspired by historic race cars. Its motor is a COSC-certified automatic movement that indicates a perpetual calendar and has a 60-hour power reserve. Top that off with a perforated blue rubber strap, inspired by a tyre profile, and you’re bound to feel a wave of 1960s motorsports nostalgia! www.chopard.com On sale at Schindler’s jewellery store

Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar Elegance and precision are the name of the game for the Fiftysix Calendar, inspired by the sleek lines of a model from 1956. On a technical level, the 2460 calibre movement indicates the date, day, month, and exact lunar phase… for the next 122 years! From a design perspective, this retro-contemporary timepiece features a steel 40 mm case, a petrol blue dial, and a leather strap. Its style is complimented by subtle references to the Maltese cross on the lugs, the crown, and the oscillating weight that’s visible through the sapphire glass case back. www.vacheron-constantin.com On sale at Schindler’s jewellery store

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Be part of the unmissable show where novelties are revealed and trends are set

APRIL 30 – MAY 05, 2020 B AS E LW OR LD.C OM

What to Watch Spring 2020 Text: Janine Vuilleumier

In the spirit of being more open, experimental, interactive, and connected, the fair plans to offer a variety of activities and novel experiences. The hallways of many high-end stands and the Carré des Horlogers allow exhibitors to display both their gorgeous timepieces and their exceptional know-how. Launched last year, the LAB gives industry startups and exhibitors a forum for their latest technological developments, while the “Live” element of the fair offers the public an insider’s perspective of all the exciting activity taking place during the fair. When Watches & Wonders Geneva closes its doors, Baselworld will open theirs, and as always, Baselworld surely has surprises in store. Many brands reveal their latest designs for the very first time during this exceptional event that makes Basel the watch capital of Switzerland for one week, with the 2020 edition running from April 30 to May 5. Here brands will feature their most innovative creations, along with the world’s most beautiful jewellery and precious stones, in an ode to mechanical engineering, craftsmanship, and ingenuity. Around 700 luxury brands in total will be expected to present their creations during Baselworld 2020. The 2019 edition of the event had some 80,000 visitors and 3,400 media representatives from all over the world in attendance, setting expectations high for the 2020 edition to come.

The two biggest Swiss watch fairs, Baselworld and Watches & Wonders Geneva (formerly known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie), are undergoing a refresh to attract younger audiences that are fond of fine watches, but who also seek “experiences.” These two annual gatherings, which used to take place in January and March, will now be held for the very first time in succession in spring 2020. To celebrate its 30th anniversary, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) will be completely transformed with a new concept, a new name, and new event dates. Now known as Watches & Wonders Geneva, the event will take place in April instead of in January. The location remains the same, so industry professionals, media, and privileged VIPs invited by exhibitors will still meet at Geneva’s Palexpo for the next edition of the event. The public is invited to explore a brand new experience in the heart of Geneva, named “In the City,” which will offer manufacturer visits, boutique activities, watch making initiation workshops, exhibitions, conferences, and industry meet-and-greet opportunities for watch fans and aficionados alike. Whether alone or with the family, this new concept makes watch-related experiences accessible for everyone.

Watches & Wonders Geneva Geneva, April 25-29, 2020 www.watchesandwonders.com Baselworld Basel, April 30-May 5, 2020 www.baselworld.com

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Zermatt Unplugged When Music Climbs Mountains Text: Daniel Bauchervez

NEW STORE IN ZERMATT

K U N S T R Ä U M E Z E R M AT T C H E Z V R O N Y S T O R E H E I N Z J U L E N S H O P V E R N I S S A G E L U X U R Y L I V I N G B A C K S T A G E H O T E L

A t e l i e r

H e i n z

J u l e n

Z e r m a t t

p i c t u r e

b y

Zermatt Selection | Bahnhofstrasse 7b | 3920 Zermatt www.heinzjulen.com

S a m a r a s

Previous page: The magic of the Unplugged Festival is seeing famous musicians perform in the mountains, sometimes at an altitude of 3,000 meters. Photo: Joe Condron

The ambiance in the many bars and hotels that also serve as festival stages is consistently intimate. Photo: Mauro Pinterowitsch

“There ain’t no mountain high enough,” sings Marvin Gaye, in his famous song about love with no limits. And yet the Swiss apply these lyrics in an entirely different way, via the exceptional, high-altitude, musical experience that is the Unplugged Music Festival, held each year in Zermatt. No other music festival is like it. In Zermatt, music truly has room to breathe in the fresh mountain air. Of the 15 performance areas set up around the ski town, three stages are actually perched on the very mountains themselves: one at the Sunnegga funicular station (at 2,288 m), just four and half minutes from the centre of town; one on the oversized terrace of the Blue Lounge in Blauherd (at 2,600 m), complete with views of the Matterhorn; and lastly, the most remote stage at the Gandegghütte alpine hut (at 3,030 m), just a few steps from the icy base of the Theodul Glacier. At these heights, there’s little else but the rock itself, forming a crown over one’s head of rugged mountain summits, topped with the occasional ice cap. In addition to the exceptional setting, another unique characteristic of the Unplugged Festival is that it’s entirely dedicated to the beauty of acoustic music. One of just a handful

of such festivals in the world, there are no studio effects used here. At Unplugged, musicians perform with nothing more than their voices and their music in its purest form, a challenge not for the faint of heart, and many songs have to be rewritten especially for the occasion. And yet there’s no straining to hear the music at these performances. In town, the main stage welcomes just around 2,000 spectators, while the stage at The Alex Hotel is designed for just 400-1000 spectators, depending on the show. Audience sizes are even smaller at the Winkelmatten Chapel or at any of the other hotel and bar partner venues, which provide a host of “New Talent Stages” featuring up-and-coming musicians. These intimate venues are key to the festival’s appeal, offering rare opportunities for close-up experiences between the public and the performing artists. The 13th edition of Unplugged will once again take place at the end of the winter season, from April 14-18, 2020. The full program will be announced on December 5, just before pre-sale tickets are made available (December 10) and general sale begins on December 12. Dido and James Morrison are among the names that have already been confirmed in the line-up for this next edition of the festival, which promises to be as spectacular as ever. www.zermatt-unplugged.ch/en 125

trends

1. Caran d’Ache Timegraph fountain pen & timepiece www.carandache.com 2. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona www.rolex.com 3. Dom Pérignon Champagne Vintage 2008 www.domperignon.com 4. Mood Joaillerie "Laniakea" diamond set ring www.mood.com 1

5. Poldo Dog Couture & Moncler Mondog reversible dog vest www.moncler.com

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1. Nobis Astrid parka www.nobis.ch 2. Reuge Galet "Satori" music box www.reuge.com 3. Julbo Vermont Classic mountaineering sunglasses www.julbo.com 4. UGG Classic Fluff Pin boots www.ugg.com

BIG BANG CHRONOGRAPH ZERMATT

B O U T I Q U E Z E R M AT T Bahnhofstrasse 27

Case in stainless steel. 131 Chronograph movement. Limited to 100 pieces.