N° 36 – Autumn 2011 by district creative lab

The most important thing in life is to live the essential— and that means something different to each of us. For some, like the American artist Brian dettmer, it means performing "open book" surgery on old tomes, converting them into surprising works of art. For others, like harry Connick Jr., passion lies in acting, while for the english group Coldplay, it’s captured in rhythm and musical arrangements. As for the photographer Nicolas henry, he flourishes by immortalizing senior citizens around the world in cabanas through which they express all the dreams and nostalgia of an entire life. We'll be taking a look at pictures that contrast with the path of extraordinary athletes whose exploits you will also read about. We will follow giovanni Quirici, who opened up a new 700 meter rock climbing line high in northern india, and with whom our thoughts remain as we publish his final article; giovanni unfortunately died last August on the north face of the eiger. We'll admire ernest Bromeis and his amazing challenge of swimming the length of the rhine river from its source to its mouth, from switzerland to the Netherlands, and by doing so, trying to draw attention to the critical role water plays in the survival of our world. As for Mike horn, he has also placed himself at the service of both our planet and a group of very eager young eco-adventurers to whom he is imparting his field experience as they traverse the globe. One person's endeavour may contrast with another’s, but all climb the same height—that which brings them closer to their dream. No false pretences, no superfluous concessions. they each carry, each in their own way, a powerful sense of hope, which they share with us. And, perhaps, that's the most important part of all—the sharing. We hope that the pages which follow will lead you to beautiful discoveries, and may they be a reminder of your "essential" as well.

Frédéric Rein | deputy editor-in-chief

contents issue 36 autumn 2011

SPORT

Additional discount of CHF 50.– on the best deals.

A word from the editor

Bodyboard, becoming one with the wave The water tales of Ernest Bromeis Mike Horn: «I would have loved to have been by Jacques Cousteau’s side!» Climbing: Vertical adventures on unknown Indian cliffs Mountaineering: Daniel Perler, greeting the big 6-0 with a bang! Trail Verbier Saint-Bernard, taking on the Ultras Verbier, down the runs on MTB Julbo White Session, in search of the ordinary extraordinary

14 20

LIFESTYLE News

The RowRay, a tricycle to row on land Portfolio: The fantastical cabanas of Nicolas Henry Woman’s review: Those never-out-of-style 70s Movies: Harry Connick Jr., musician and actor Movies: Adventure for adventure’s sake Music: The much-anticipated return of Coldplay Travel: Where Turkey turns green Travel: Alaska, bear country

SOCIETY

Click’n’save.

Edouard François, the architect without limits l’architecte qui fait pousser les murs Brian Dettmer: a new chapter in art56 Technology: What’s really at stake in social networking Google enters the OS arena Trends: what’s in this autumn 30 degree’s address book Post card Impressum

60 64 70 73 74 79

Book now flight + hotel, flight + hotel + car or hotel + car! Choose and combine individually from 95 000 Hotels, 540 airlines and 11 car rental providers. With the discount code dp30degrees you can now save additional CHF 50.–. Valid until 15.12.2011 for worldwide bookings. Book now at www.ebookers.ch!

10 27 32 48 51 52

–

. CHF 50 nt iscou travel d t code: coun with dis s e

gre dp30de

54 80 84

89 91 92 97 98 98

Click, book and save: on www.ebookers.ch – The discount of CHF 50.– is valid only for flight + hotel, flight + hotel + car and hotel + car bookings. The validity of the discount code is until 15.12.2011, unlimited travel period, minimum stay 2 nights. Some hotels are not participating and are excluded from the promotion. Instructions and conditions: www.ebookers-travel.ch/discount-code-DP. Subject to availability.

elie Chevieux

hoMage – cliMber giovanni Quirici Killed he was an acrobat, a true artist. he incessantly defied the laws of gravity, preferring the vertical plane to staying on solid ground. At 33 years old, the exceptional climber giovanni Quirici passed away. he went up to the heavens, beyond the summits he so loved to conquer. this native from ticino and resident of geneva was killed after a fall on the North Face of the eiger, on the “Chant du Cygne” route on 12 August. he was a regular contributor to 30° degrees Magazine, and the entire 30° staff extends their deepest condolences to his friends and family.

Mountains – What to do When your path crosses a herding dog As wolves and bears progressively return to the area, dogs are increasingly used to protect sheep flocks. some 200 of these furry, four-legged guardians are already hard at work in the Alps. to teach hikers and trail bikers how to react when they see them, the WWF, Pro Natura and Agridea, the association which organises flock protection for switzerland, have created a video clip. remaining calm and getting off your bike are just a couple of the things you should do. Check out the clip at www.wwf.ch/ protectiondestroupeaux

sarah Marquis

National geographic / Maxut Zhumayev

expedition – on the trail of explorer sarah MarQuis in June 2010, sarah Marquis set off in search of new adventures. After Australia and the Andes, her new challenge is called explorAsia: nearly 20,000 km on foot over 24 months between Mongolia and Australia. Currently, the 39-year-old adventure seeker is on her way around Lake Baikal (russia), a 2000 km hike, before she makes her way to Laos. Follow her at www.sarahmarquis.ch

sport – a sWiss Windsurfing World chaMpion Vincent huguenin lived his own American dream in July in san Francisco, California. huguenin was participating in the Masters division (over 35) of the raceboard World Championship. this Neuchâtel resident took 7 of 12 rounds to win the world title, beating out Argentinean Fernando Consorte and Frenchman Jean Asia. the forty-something windsurfer didn’t bring back America’s gold, but rather the silver trophy reserved for the champion. www.silverarrow-sailing.com

Marc-Alain Zimmerli

Mountaineering – the WoMan With all fourteen 8000M peaKs under her belt gerlinde Kaltenbrunner climbs mountains like others might learn to play an instrument: with patience and perseverance! By conquering K2 via the north face (in China), this Austrian has made history, becoming the third woman to accomplish the ascent of the fourteen 8000ers. And the first to do it without oxygen! there’s no doubt about it gerlinde Kaltenbrunner can blow us all away… she had previously made six unsuccessful attempts at K2, climbing the Pakistani side. www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at

renault

terrafugia

getting around – a car that sprouts prouts Wings pr James Bond would never have turned down the “transition”. ransition”. But ransition while Agent 007 is fiction, this flying car is real. Four students from Massachusetts institute of technology (Mit) came up with the idea five years ago. According to terrafugia, the American company producing the car,, it is almost ready to be marketed in the Us, most likely by the end of the year. this four-wheeled flying machine will set you back nearly 170,000 swiss Francs. Plus, you’ll have to have a licence – not “to kill”, like James Bond, but to fly! www.terrafugia.com

getting around – the race is on for electric cars in the race for creating tomorrow’s best electric car, the twizy by French car manufacturer renault, seems to have taken the lead. this small city two-seater at just 2.32 metres long has a huge advantage – its price. the sticker price starts at 10,200 swiss Francs, or in other words, a fourth of what the competition has on offer. And if you sign up for a monthly subscription of 65 Francs, the battery is guaranteed for the life of the car. the first model, expected to be autonomous for 100 km and reach speeds of up to 45 km/h, should hit the roads before the end of the year. www.renault.com/fr/vehicules/renault/pages/twizy.aspx

technology – a solar sWiMsuit Ladies, the iKini (135 euros) has nearly 40 small photovoltaic cells. it won’t help you recharge your own battery, but it will however charge small gadgets such as your iPod via a UsB port. Just make sure to dry it after a swim! American designer Andrew schneider hasn’t forgotten about the guys. he’s currently working on a suit you can hook your cooler up to so those beers stay nice and cold. http://andrewjs.com/ Photo Preston Noon

trends – anti-obnoxious-guy phone nuMbers Ladies, you’ve all been there – that obnoxious guy has been following you around all night and wants your phone number. it seems like the only way you’re going to get rid of him is to actually give it to him, but that’s the last thing you want to do. Manifone to the rescue! this French company has developed a product, “Control Boys”, which for 18 swiss Francs gives you a kit with five disposable numbers with limited lifetimes. Boys – you have been warned. rejection is just a phone call away.

dominik Plüss

Preston Noon

holidays – digital detox for cyber addicts some just can’t resist. Constantly checking their email, Facebook updates... even on holidays, they spend more time surfing the web than the waves. hotels on the other side of the pond have come up with a solution: digital-free weekends. iPhones and computers are left at the reception desk. these “digital detoxes” often include television privileges being revoked as well. how do you feel about taking a disconnected weekend?

Music – the avo session basel taKes the stage it all started in 1986. twenty-five years later, the AVO session Basel showcases the greatest musicians on the planet in an intimate setting. this year, AVO’s 26th instalment will take place from 21 October to 13 November. Last year, more than 19,000 festival goers came. Keep the rhythm after a festival-filled summer. get the full programme at www.avo.ch

Fred Meylan

ecology – an aWareness raising calendar Models sporting crude oil bikinis? it’s certainly... different. it’s actually part of surfrider Foundation europe’s (www.surfrider. eu) new awareness campaign to inform the public about water pollution and sustainable ocean management. you still have a few months to flip through the remaining – and very original – calendar pages of 2011, or go back in time and start the year over! By signing up for the association’s newsletter, you’ll receive a photo by email each month. if you’re one of the first 200, you’ll get the paper version. http://inscription.surfrider.eu/surfrider/landing_a/ calendrier Photo Fred Meylan

AVIATIONCOLLECTION Introducing the Alpina Startimer Pilot timepieces. A collection of limited editions, developed in close collaboration with Cessna Aircraft and PrivatAir.

ALPINA WATCH INTERNATIONAL SA • +41 22 860 8740 • www.alpina-watches.com

Bodyboarding is a water sport akin to surfing which also involves riding the waves, but is practiced on a board that is shorter and more flexible. Often belittled by surfers, it has nonetheless inspired a host of aficionados from the four corners of the globe. A birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye look at a sport born by accident.

BodyB Body B oardEN Becoming one with the wave 14 | DREISSIG GRAD

Tahurai Henry, really deep in the barrel.

15 | DREISSIG GRAD

You can also challenge the monster with a vertical take-off.

Text°°° chrisTelle coulon Photos°°° benjamin Thouard bodyboarding enthusiasts Alvinoall Tupuai giving a show on a huge keg. will agree on one thing: good things come of chance happenings. The date was July 9th 1971, in the lovely island of Hawaii. The swell was spectacular that day and Tom Morey, a passionate surfer, found himself without a board and confined to looking on as some great surfing took place along the horizon. Thankfully, the solution to his predicament didn’t take long to germinate within him. In no time at all he had created an improvised board by cutting a slice of foam found in his garage, using an electric knife. Taking to the water he found himself fully submerged ... in a sea of pleasure thanks to this new way of riding the waves while lying prone on his stomach. Forty years later, tens of thousands of bodyboarders are striking the same pose on waves the world over. The board, originally meant to be a temporary stand-in, has evolved technologically, but the sport of bodyboarding, which is within anyone’s reach, provides immediate excitement. At the higher levels, mastering the practice turns it into an extreme sport all of its own. More than a simple pastime, this discipline requires a no-holds-barred commitment, just as with other more well-known water gliding sports.

The basics of bodyboarding Bodyboarding is practiced using a foam board that is roughly 1 meter long and 60 cm wide. A pair of short flippers are a must to help pick up enough speed to catch the start of the wave. Most bodyboarders ride with their stomachs on the board, though it’s also possible to stand or kneel. Head and chest should stay off the board, while hands remain below the water and are used for forward propulsion. That done, all sorts of manoeuvres are possible. PerfecT desTinaTions Like all surfing enthusiasts, bodyboarders are always looking for new thrills, which is why they’re always searching for a spot they haven’t tried before. Thankfully, our world is covered in breakers, with waves as rich and diverse as the planet itself. - The paradisiacal archipelago of Hawaii and its legendary waves on which so much history has been made, are naturally a destination not to be missed. Its diabolical Pacific swells never fail to disappoint those looking for the ultimate ride. - Tahiti is another rider’s paradise—and another «must» destination for intense bodysurfing. Be mindful, however, that its reef breakers are not kind to beginners. - While the beaches of Brazil are filled with sun and samba, the waves of this colourful land are a bodyboarder’s El Dorado. - Portugal is a sure shot with a variety of great spots, a pleasant climate and excellent competitors. - The volcanic archipelago of the Canary Islands, about 150 km northwest of western Sahara, is the European destination of choice for bodyboarding. The islands offer a wide variety of waves on both volcanic and sandy beaches. - The French coast is also not to be neglected, and provides some lovely surfing opportunities. From north to south, there’s something for everyone and all levels. - Another «treasure island» for bodyboarding is Reunion Island. The bountiful Indian Ocean whets the appetite for extreme riding, which has made the sport very popular all over the island.

The young Tahitian bodyboarder Tepo Faraire at the heart of the Teahupoo tube.

17 | DREISSIG GRAD

Tepo Faraire, still perfectly at ease in the tube.

«bodyboarding makes iT easier To ride differenT kinds of waves.» jérôme bats, age 30, lives in Soustons in south-western France. Champion of France in 2008, he is today ranked 5th in France and 11th in Europe.

What’s the biggest difference between bodyboarding and other water gliding sports? This sport combines gliding with aerial figures, thus making possible a large variety of manoeuvres. It’s also accessible to large numbers of people, and makes it possible to easily ride on very different types of waves—tube or flat, large or small. Being in a prone position on the board gives you the feeling of becoming one with the wave. How would you describe your state of being when in the water? I’m always looking for the best possible waves. That includes becoming knowledgeable of the location, its environment, the ocean, etc. Once in the water, I’m there for the pleasure of the ride, and therefore often in the company of friends. I’m always trying to perfect my manoeuvres and my surfing style. What’s your favourite bodyboarding destination? Hawaii. That’s where the best waves in the world are found (pipeline). It was there that I had the pleasure of taking part in the largest bodyboard competition in the world. All the best bodyboarders in

Anthony Caldo

How did you get started with bodyboarding? I was introduced to bodyboarding 15 years ago by some friends. We learned by watching videos and then heading out and practicing as much as we could. It quickly developed into a passion, and five years later I started to compete. I haven’t stopped since. In fact, it’s become my day job!

the world were there. The waves, the atmosphere and the gorgeous scenery make it a must-see destination for those skilled in the art of riding the waves. Could you tell us about one of your most memorable rides? It was on my first trip to the Canary Islands, after a plane trip that took an entire day. Upon meeting up with my friends, I was welcomed with some good news: some perfect two meter waves were crashing on the Quemao (the Canary pipeline). The breakers were incredible, and we were the only ones in the water. We surfed translucent tubes for nearly three hours. It was so perfect that I forgot all about my flying misadventures.

20 | thirty degrees

The waTer Tales of

ErnEst

Bromeis

After crossing the largest lakes of every Swiss canton in 2010 using nothing but his arms and legs, this 43 year old from the Grisons is getting ready to swim the full 1200 km of the Rhine over the course of a month. Beyond the impressive athletic feat, this is a man with a mission, a man who wants to send a message that water is valuable, and not to be wasted. Albigna Dam, Bergell (GR).

21 | thirty degrees

p Lake on the Terri glacier (GR). s Albigna Dam, Bergell (GR) ss Lake Suretta, Splügen (GR). sss Lake Duana, Val da la Duana (GR).

Text°°° Frédéric rein Photos°°° AndreA BAdrutt, coire to the water, once more! in 2008, ernest Bromeis spent 2 months swimming across 200 grison lakes in glacial conditions (temperatures as low as 1º C). in 2010, he crossed the largest lakes of every swiss canton, racking up 300 km in a month’s time—as much as nearly ten english Channel crossings. in 2012, he’s taking it to the next level: in May of that year, ernest Bromeis will swim the length of the rhine, becoming the first person to ever swim the full river from its source in switzerland to its mouth in rotterdam (holland) on the North sea. in all, he’ll be swimming a total of 1200 km in 27 stages each averaging 45 km, plus three days off for good measure. it’s going to be one hell of a month. «i’ve started training in the rhine, and in some parts, it feels more like canyoning than swimming,» explains the 43 year old from the grisons, who for the last four years has made his living from these water-based expeditions. «the currents are so strong and the rocks to be avoided so numerous that i can’t even do the crawl; i just have to let myself be carried by the rush of the torrent. that’s why i wear a helmet during those sections. From Lake Constance on it gets calmer; but then there are lots of boats on the water.» despite all that one thing is sure: there’s no way that ernest Bromeis will let the

obstacles bring this final stage of his aptly-named «Miracle Bleu» (Blue Miracle) trilogy to a watery grave. MessAge in A Bottle ernest Bromeis, former coach of the swiss Olympic triathlon and duathlon teams, is a man on a mission. his body could be likened to a bottle tossed out to sea in the hope that the message contained therein will be read—or in his case, heard. each time this father of three takes a dip, it’s for a cause dear to his heart: water. «setting athletic records requires a blend of physical and mental performance, but it’s not an end in itself. rather, this is a medium through which i can broadcast my convictions, and remind people that water is valuable commodity that must be used judiciously, even if it seems to be as abundant as it is here in switzerland. Beyond its economic value, which in the grisons is 1.70 swiss francs per 1,000 litres, water is a priceless gift that should not be wasted.» Worldwide, 884 million people lack access to safe drinking water. For them, water is a luxury. in switzerland, each person uses an average of 170 litres of water a day, compared with 20 litres a day in Mali or haiti! if we take the time to look a bit closer, we can almost see, in each of ernest’s powerful breaststrokes, an act of purification to absolve the sins of his fellowmen who use and abuse this life-giving substance.

the educAtionAl Angle ernest likes to describe himself as a «water activist», an h2O ambassador if you will. that’s why, during his «little jaunt» down the rhine, an interactive travelling event will be hosted in some of the towns he’ll be stopping at along the way. «education is key. those who love water, love life! Within ten years i’d love to see a Miracle Bleu foundation, dedicated to helping water management projects, or maybe a Miracle Bleu boat, which would sail the rhine and provide opportunity for school groups to learn about the importance of this ‘blue gold’», he predicts, while remaining keenly aware that his plans are a drop in the bucket. By then, he’ll have braved the rhine river, and may have even come back from rotterdam on bicycle. «it would make a great story. i’m seriously thinking about it. When i did the tour of the grison lakes, i climbed a total of 80,000 meters on foot and bicycle to get from one lake to another, which is twice the total vertical climb of the tour de France.» Move over triathletes, ernest will be running back next! After completing this feat, he’ll no doubt be setting his sights on other challenges, creating new water tales. «i don’t want to get ahead of myself, but i’d like to go beyond europe, to Asia perhaps—a continent i’ve always been fascinated by. Or perhaps the Aral sea, if they let you swim it...» One thing’s for sure, the life of ernest Bromeis is, like the rhine, far from being a long quiet river. Follow ernest Bromeis’ adventures at www.dasblauewunder.ch

o Lake at Fuorcla Surlej, Engadine (GR). p Lake La Scotga, Schamserberg (GR). s Lake Bischol, Heinzenberg (GR).

24 | thirty degrees

THE RowRay a tricycle to row on land This contraption, designed by the Dane Troels Øhman, provides a novel way to engage in sport activities. Going hand in glove with a modern lifestyle, this «mobile fitness» prototype could get you out and about at any time! Text°°° Serge greter rr

the only thing the rowray ay has in common with the tricycle of our childhood is the name. in this contemporary reinvention, the two back wheels have migrated to the front, while the front wheel is at the rear. But the rowray’s ray’s most unique feature is its lack of pedals, which have been replaced by footrests. to power the wheels of this machine, designed by the dane troels roels Øhman, one does not pedal. One rows. it gives new meaning to a “dry run”. On the rowray, the seat moves forward or backward in tandem with the upper limb-powered strokes of its occupant. the oars have been replaced with two handlebars and a single brake (hand activated). the result? A great workout for the arms, legs, back and abs. Not to mention some major cardio, which is what troels Øhman had in mind when he designed it—an invention born of the frustration of having to sacrifice his three daily capoeira sessions on the altar of family and professional life. “My goal is to introduce an alternative way of engaging in a sport that’s fun and accessible at any time and therefore suited to the constraints of modern life. Physical exercise is too often neglected, shoved aside by a host of day-to-day obligations,” explains the inventor.

At the beAch Ach or in the fore A foreSt St the rowray is well suited for both adults and kids. it can be ridden over a wide range of terrains including forests, beaches, parks, etc. it’s an all-terrain means of transport that’s easily accessible to anyone. Well, almost. the fact is, the rowray is not yet in commercial production. “it’s still in the design stage, from which a prototype has been built,” explains the dane, “but i’m hoping that we’ll soon be able to begin large scale manufacturing.” Before others can start rowing on his ingenious machine, troels Øhman will have to row in the funds to get his unique creation onto the assembly line. Once that happens, it’s not hard to imagine this thing really rolling. Check out the world of troels Øhman at http://oehman.dk

An Architect with A growing reputAtion reputA Ation

28 | thirty degrees

Edouard Franรงois iEdouard Franรงois was named Maison & Objet Designer of the Year 2011. Project M6B2, Paris, 13th arrondissement.

While the use of plants is a key theme in the architectural designs of Edouard François, his many projects demonstrate above all an extraordinary capacity of adaptation to their environment.

s White aviary, Hauts-de-Seine, France. ss Tower Flower, France, Opac de Paris, 2004.

Text°°° EstEllE Daval / EsPaCEs ContEmPorains For Edouard François, it is above all a question of context, and “ecology also means not disturbing the surroundings”. his creative approaches are intrinsically linked to key contemporary concerns such as recycling, usage and human factors, fair trade, economics serving wider accessibility, health and well-being, the seasons, organic and biodynamic produce. Architect, designer, urban planner, artist... edouard François is a multi-faceted creator. he is currently one of the key global figures in “green architecture”. Based in Montparnasse at the agency he set up in 1998, he is surrounded by an international team of architects and urban planners with whom he works on numerous architectural and planning projects, as well as in landscaping, design and graphics.

town anD Country his work first came to prominence through his participation in the international garden Festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire in 1996, where he exhibited his ‘soft greenhouse’. he then taught at the Mediterranean College of gardens and Landscape in grasse, the special College of Architecture in Paris and the higher National College of Landscape in Versailles, as well as involvement with the Arc-en-rêve Architecture Centre in Bordeaux, the French Architectural institute, the Pavillon de l’Arsenal, the Pompidou Centre, and the famous Architectural Association in London. recognition came in 1996 with the first plant façade for rural homes in Jupilles, then with his ‘immeuble qui Pousse’ (growing Building), constructed in 2000 at Château de Lez in Montpellier, which the French Culture Ministry used three years later as an emblem for its poster campaign on the importance of architecture to quality of life. But it is above all his tower Flower, a block of 30 apartments completed in Asnières in 2004, which has secured him a wide reputation. designed as a counterpart to the surrounding park, the tower Flower takes the form of a basic structure covered in a vertical garden made up of 380 large lightweight concrete pots planted with bamboo and fed by an ingenious automatic watering system. this nature-based approach, which can be found in most of his experimental and innovative work, is something he regards as essential to the diversity required for human well-being. “Look at a tree: it has a thousand branches, it moves, grows, changes colour! Only in this way can an architectural work contain the typical complexity required by humans”. this recognition was quickly confirmed by inclusion of his works in the permanent collections of the Pompidou Centre and the Frac Centre, as well as by numerous exhibitions in prestigious cultural venues including the Canadian Centre for Architecture in Montreal, the guggenheim Museum in New york, and the Victoria & Albert Museum in London.

More recently, edouard François has further consolidated his reputation within the world of contemporary creative design with the moulded, pierced facades he has created for buildings integrated into historic centres, such as Fouquet’s Barrière hotel on the Champs-elysées in Paris and the BMW showroom on Boulevard de Waterloo in Brussels. With these projects, the architect defied expectations by using plants to merge into the surrounding context. For Fouquet’s, he imagined a haussmanian building, whose antique windows were walled up and whose façade was broken here and there to allow the integration of contemporary bay windows “hanging like paintings on wallpaper”. rEinvEnting thE City his current research remains characterised by a continued interest in usage, the environment, project economics and innovation, as well as by a form of architecture favouring the development of biodiversity, as illustrated by his on-going and future work. his most recent project is the eden Bio, a Parisian building providing 100 social dwellings and studios for artists, with communal areas and a restaurant. scaffolding, colonised by thousands of wisteria plants, runs along the building. Also in Paris, in the 13th arrondissement, François has been chosen to design the first residential tower block to be built since the 1970s, a plant-focussed building over 50 metres tall, on which he is working in close collaboration with a team of botanists to make it a veritable biotope. in parallel to his architectural projects, edouard François is carrying out an in-depth reflection on car parks, in partnership with the epolia group. the Maison & Objet trade fair, which is this year introducing the Fil Vert (green thread), a selection of exhibitors chosen for the responsi-

p F(lat)pot. s Fouquet’s Barrière, Champs-Elysées, Paris. Renovation of a 110-suite luxury hotel.

ble approaches they have adopted, has named edouard François designer of the year 2011, to reward his vision of the future and the new movement he represents. Along with designer Loulou de la Falaise, Brazilian artist ernesto Neto, Chinese landscape designer Wang Xiangrong and architect dominique Perrault, he was one of five figures given the green light to devise an installation of their choice in the heart of the Chaumontsur-Loire estate for the 20th international garden Festival, which opened on 22 April this year. edouard François recently received the “supreme accolade” of being awarded a royal institute of British Architects (riBA) international Fellowship, for his significant contribution to the world of architecture.

The FanTasTical cabanas oF

nicolas henry

This portrait of Nicolas Henry was taken in Cape Town in a footballthemed cabana designed by the South African Patrick Jampo.

French photographer Nicolas Henry spent five years travelling all over the world to meet senior citizens, asking them to help recreate a cabana with their personal belongings. While time may have left some wrinkles on the faces of these older individuals, it has left their child’s spirit untouched.

A book oF stories the book Les cabanes de nos grands-parents, published by Actes sud, comes out in October. it brings together various encounters with Nicolas henry that took place all over the world. “After seven years of work, it’s a dream that has come true,” says the artist, who for the time being is keeping mum on future projects.

Text°°° Frédéric rein in his photographic series Les cabanes de nos grands-parents (the cabanas of our grandparents), Nicolas henry has captured a sort of childlike candour. the magical world of childhood wonder that dissipates as we grow up to face adult responsibilities sometimes comes back later on in life. through the artist’s mises en scènes, these older individuals who have crossed his path discover a second youth. inside the cabanas, they seem sheltered from time that inescapably ticks on. they are carefree and at peace with themselves, at once everlasting and universal. Nicolas henry travelled the world for five years and visited 30 different countries to create these fantastical cabanas. From easter island to Vanuatu, thailand and Chile, he has witnessed magnificent landscapes and had fascinating encounters – 400 to be exact. starting with his own grandparents, he created 400 different scenes where

we see the older generation in their element, most often in their own homes. secret worLds the decors, built by the photographer with help from others on site, recreated a part of their childhoods. these ephemeral and poetic worlds waiting to be explored reflect both the real and intangible. the widely varying objects presented tell the story of very full lives. they also reflect the imaginations of their owners. “A rug becomes an ocean while the back and forth sway of a rocking chair becomes the boat,” says Nicolas henry. “it’s a way for me to grab on to the freedom that people acquire with age as they worry less about what others think.” is there necessarily a feeling of nostalgia? “i believe more in what experience has to offer, how it can change the way we see the world today, helping us build our tomorrow. Unfortunately, human beings

make the same mistakes over and over again. each generation believes it has discovered everything.” the photographer confesses that he is worried by the two generations that are at once so close and yet so far away from each other – the elders and the youth. Projecting imAges When asked what his cabana would look like today, he describes “a show where i would project all the images of the whole world and where i’d tell stories.” For Nicolas henry, words speak just as loud as pictures. each of his photographs is accompanied by an interview of the person featured. Combining the two gives the viewer a slice of life, both captivating and touching, that goes beyond memory. discover the world of Nicolas henry at www.nicolashenry.com.

PORTFOLIO NICOLAS HENRY

«The spirit of nature entered my soul to show me that which is hidden. Yesterday, it told me of your coming. The laughter of the youth in our village came together, and we went far into the jungle to rebuild the house of secrets. The gaze of the women never falls on the stone or the drum. The pig’s tooth that I carry shows my rank; it’s my worth according to our tradition. When you have gathered the taro, the rice and the yam, you can kill a pig; and the dances of the men are witnesses to this new stage. When you attain a rank, the ceremonies are filled with the colours of the nature that clothes us. Little by little we have forgotten our traditions, as long ago the religion that came with the boats forbid our practices. Our ancestors did not think that there was a God, but God would take care of us while laughing and respecting us.» Aiair Randes, on the site of the House of Mysteries, Lorbaap, Vanuatu.

PORTFOLIO NICOLAS HENRY

«Chuwa is the name of the tree that has two seasons: one that bears leaves, and another that awaits their rebirth. Its sacred nature comes from the stones that hug its roots. Out of respect, one should only circle the tree following the sun’s path. Each day, I come to visit it and greet it. At its feet, a small stone is bathed in an orange colour, which is pleasing to our gods. I carry my prayer, which accompanies my steps throughout the day’s work. Today is «Magesakanti», our Hindu festival. All the members of the family that makes up our village have come to visit us. Some have travelled all day, coming even from far away Kathmandu. «Chuwa» bears our prayers in the wind, as well as the red saris of all of the women in our village. Our laughter can be heard all the way to the bottom of the valley; we overflow with joy. Our lives know no loneliness, as children are always present in each of our houses. Being in harmony with nature makes us conscious of the beauty of the eternal rebirth.» Boudhakumari Dhakal, in the sacred tree of Durali, Nepal.

«On the evenings when the moon is full, the night is inhabited by our dreams. The salt desert which burns the skin is drenched by the rains. The season of flowers comes, making the branches bend low; the earth will give us its fruit. The good dogs herd the sheep to the shelter of the fig trees. We seduce women with our look, in a world where no one fights with another out of a jealous desire to possess. The days unfold in the beauty of that which we sow; it is the day when life is brought forth. Now I sleep in the wide open spaces; the wind—blowing on the heels of my childhood—and the morning laughter, softly awake me.» Gerardo Coca, in a canopy bed in the Atacama desert, Chile.

«In 1967 I saw a television set for the first time. Inside, there were native American Indians defeated by White men carrying guns and wearing large hats. I was both gladdened by this invention and angered by what I saw within. At that time we didn’t wear any clothing. We used bamboo to haul water and to make our shoes. Leaves were used to carry fruit from the gardens and to protect us from the cool nights. When plastic first arrived, we thought it was a natural element. Then we realized that it was quickly broken and did not decompose. It goes into the sea and kills the fish and the turtles. At first, it’s attractive and becomes a need. It’s like these cigarettes, which we cannot afford and which shorten our lives. A day when there was a storm, large sails crossed the bay. We told the White man not to go out, and his boat shipwrecked against the black rocks. We never saw him again. Throughout the village we find pieces of sail—just like plastic—all the way up to the heights of our mountains.» Anna Reva, and the sails of the large boat, Port Resolution, Vanuatu.

«I was 8 years old when I arrived from China. It was at that age that I began to work. For years I was surrounded by the noise and chaos of building sites where house was stacked upon house. We built the world in the echoes of a dust that today still resonates inside my lungs. Our towers are so high that soon they will blot out the day. The nights are now no more than electric fireworks and our lives are like stars fallen from the heavens. I was sick when I met my master; he asked me to sit down on an invisible chair. I came back to see him every day. Every day, for a whole year, I remained still. At dawn, in the heart of the gardens, the elders join me for t’ai chi. Our gaze is drawn to the tree in our search for harmony and balance. Its roots are entwined with our destiny even if man no longer knows how to live with the seeds that bring forth its fruit.» Woo Kwong, on the roofs of Hong Kong.

«I remember a parade as a little girl. I was crying in the chaos of a huge crowd. Queen Elizabeth of England took me in her arms and kissed me to console me. My tears dried up in the strange silence of everyone looking on. As an adolescent, I was part of Brazil’s champion volleyball team. My mother sent me to do dancing lessons because she thought I was a tom boy. I became prima ballerina and later a ballet teacher at Petrópolis. The stage brought me the most beautiful experiences of my life, allowing me to dress up in costumes and live the adventures of princesses. After meeting him at an automobile club dinner, my husband came to watch me dance and asked me to marry him. I was 21 years old. Our lives have been happy ever since, nourished by family and literature. After bringing up my children, I studied fine art. Engraving has enabled me to capture the beauty of the moment, and to convey the emotions which live on in my memory. » Maria Angela, in the library of her apartment in Rio, Brazil.

i America Germina Narvaez and her grandchildren, Atacama, Chile. o Maria Celia Grefa Aguinda, at the feet of one of the last great trees, Amazonian forest, Ecuador. p George Trevorrow, grandfather of Kevina and traditional chief of the aboriginal tribes of the region of Coorong, Australia. oo Thomas Charley and his helicopter fish, Tana, Vanuatu. p p Ellen Trevorrow, picking herbs, Mennige, Australia.

This autumn’s trend is infused with the spirit of the seventies. Here’s a quick peek of the «must haves» of the season.

Those never ouT of sTyle ,

70 ’S

Text°°° SaSkia Galitch as if the fashion «that is to come» could only be written with the pen of the past, its creators continue to revisit the wardrobes «that were». this autumn, the fashion time machine has (once again) stopped at 1970, as evidenced by the collections of tommy hilfiger, Marc By Marc Jacobs and Jill stuart, to name just a few. so for all those wishing to stay trendy and avoid being caught out of style, the time has come to brush up on those ‘70s dress codes and review its fundamentals. the must-haves of the «Neo-hippy-boboïsante-version 2011», include the following standouts: Bell BottomS Very tall with a wide bell shape at the bottom, bell bottom trousers are the dress code symbol of the seventies ... and today. Worn in denim, herringbone and corduroy. how to wear. With a lovely belt, a long-sleeved t-shirt, short and not too large, and a tucked-in blouse. SkirtS and dreSSeS When it comes to length, it’s the clash of two schools of thought: the mini minis vs. the ultra-long, folk style. that being said, in order to avoid monotonous lengths this fall, the short and mid-length skirts have a slight edge, along with mini dresses. how to wear. short skirts and dresses are worn with opaque or coloured tights, polished square toe shoes (the latest fashion) or boots with laces—also very «in» this winter. knitwear having long-since vanished from women’s closets, knitted wool jackets made with large stitches (needle size 9 or larger) are making a comeback, with jacquard and belt motifs. those good ol’ large-knit pullovers, made of wool or cotton, with a turtleneck or a round neckline, are once more a staple of a true fashionista’s wardrobe. As are crocheted clothes, which had reappeared a few seasons ago but are as impossible to find as ever! how to wear. Over jeans or short skirts, for example.

Keystone

the deSiGnS Psychedelic, round, square, rectangular, polka dot, large dots, little flowers, etc.—coloured designs can now be happily superimposed. how to wear. it’s all about creating your own personal style. Mixing and matching certain types of prints can certainly be eye catching. For those wishing to remain more discreet (and elegant), sticking to one piece with a design worn on top of a plain one is recommended. the colourS On top of the classic claret, burgundy, brown, autumn tan and bronze, are added colours that are bright, sunny, happy and primary, along with white, which, ironically, is this year’s «new black». how to wear. here again it’s all a matter of personal taste; one can be daring with mixes ad infinitum or stick to more matching tones.

Palma Kolansky/sony Music

Harry ConniC ConniCk Jr. Musician and actor A brilliant crooner and talented actor, Harry Connick Jr. is a titan in the industry. His latest film, “Dolphin Tale”, should take his star status up another notch. Text°°° SaSkia Galitch Europeans don’t realise it, but harry connick Jr. is a giant. A real one. the closest in comparison would undoubtedly be Frank sinatra. Born and raised in New Orleans, his childhood pals included the three eldest Marsalis boys, who were as athletic as they were musical. their father, ellis Marsalis, was Connick’s piano teacher. Connick grew up fast, losing his mother at just thirteen. the multi-talented Connick is a master on stage, exceptional crooner, very original pianist, composer and arranger. his influences range from duke ellington to Monk, which makes for an interesting mix. But that’s not all – in 1990, at age 23, Connick made his debut in theatre and cinema. in his first film, “Memphis Belle”, his character had the same name – Clay – as his new character in the soon-to-be-released “dolphin tale”. he played the role of a soldier who was an excellent piano player, but that was just the first scene of Connick’s impressive film career. Al-

though his angelic good looks may seem enough to get by on, his talent is undeniable. Jodie Foster knew it, and in 1992 brought him on board for “Little Man tate,” in which he played eddie, an adorable young man completely overwhelmed by things happening around him. takinG a BrEathEr Alongside his film career, Connick was busy composing, recording albums and performing with some of the biggest names in American jazz. he quickly rose to superstardom and was so successful that he decided to take some time off from making movies. But in 1996, he was back on screen with co-star sigourney Weaver in “Copycat,” breaking out of his usual character type to become diabolical serial killer daryll Lee Cullum. he also made an appearance in “independence day” that same year. in the next few years, his music and family life remained a priority, but he found time to voice the animated masterpiece “the iron giant”, joined the cast of the tV series “Will & grace” and made numerous successful films. titles include “Life without dick” (2001), with sarah Jessica Parker, “P.s. i Love you” (2007), with hilary swank, “New in town” (2009), with renée Zellweger, and “dolphin tale” (2011), with Morgan Freeman, which is sure to be a big hit if the early buzz proves to be true. King of supporting roles, he exudes nonchalant, youthful charm. impossibly moving and natural in emotional scenes, he seems to enjoy nothing better than making his three girls laugh – right along with the crowd.

A new tAke on DumAs “All for one, and one for all!” this age-old motto never fails to spark imagination. this year’s American-german production is an adaptation of Alexandre dumas’ classic. Milla Jovovich stars as Milady de Winter, Logan Lerman as d’Artagnan and Matthew Macfadyen as Athos to a backdrop of Matrix-worthy special effects. spectacular falls and tumbles, tons of duels, plot twists that will make your head spin, explosions and a touch of romance to spice things up – everything you need for an out-of-this-world movie adventure. “the three Musketeers”, Paul W.s. Anderson, 2011. starring Milla Jovovich, Logan Lerman, Orlando Bloom, Mads Mikkelsen, Matthew Macfadyen, ray stevenson and Christoph Waltz. in theatres: 12 October. www.threemusketeers-movie.com

summit entertainment

ADVENTURE CINEMA Whether you’re 2 or 92, you’ll find a fantastical adventure this fall at the movies. Here’s a glimpse at what’s to come.

Text°°° sAskiA GAlitCh

GeorGe Clooney or Bust! A thriller directed by and starring george Clooney – what else might you want to heat up those first crisp autumn nights? But let’s get down to serious things. stephen Myers (ryan gosling) is a brilliant twentysomething staffer in charge of the career of a respectably-aged politician, played by george Clooney. Confronted by the underhanded reality of American politics, this naive young man goes from disillusioned to disenchanted. A merciless portrayal of a world where low blows and set-ups reign, this feature film is an adaptation of the play “Farragut North” by Beau Willimon. the play was inspired by the true story of howard dean, the American democratic presidential candidate in the 2004 primaries – who was a favourite... for a time.

Warner

“the ides of March”, george Clooney, 2011. starring george Clooney, ryan gosling, Philip seymour hoffman and Marisa tomei. in theatres: 26 October. http://ides-of-march-movie-trailer.blogspot.com

The Artist. this little black and white jewel poetically tells the story of the transition of silent films to the talkies, as well as how fame, pride and money can all get in the way of love. Film by Michel Hazanavicius. Starring Jean Dujardin, Bérénice Bejo and John Goodman. In theatres: 19 October. www.warnerbros.fr/the-artist

dreamWorks

disney

not so fAst... there’s more

“the Adventures of tintin”, steven spielberg and Peter Jackson, 2011. starring Jamie Bell, simon Pegg and Nick Frost. in theatres: 26 October. www.us.movie.tintin.com

Contagion. As you might guess from the title, a highly contagious deadly virus is spreading like wildfire. What are the doctors to do? Whatever they can. Film by Steven Soderbergh. Starring Marion Cotillard, Matt Damon and Gwyneth Paltrow. In theatres: 9 November. www.premiere.fr/Bandes-annonces/ Video/Contagion-VOST Twilight – Breaking Dawn, Part 1. Bella and edward married? twilight fans have been waiting ages for this one. But don’t break out the Champagne just yet. With the Cullen’s, things are never so simple. Film by Bill Condon. Starring Kristen Stewart, Robert Pattinson and Taylor Lautner. In theatres: 16 November. www. breakingdawn-themovie.com

summit entertainment

tintin – AvAtAr style Bringing tintin to the big screen – all the while delving into legends and myths – takes some daring. But ok, we are talking about steven spielberg and Peter Jackson after all, so that makes things easier. But are they enough to make it good? And true to the real thing? Will it pass muster with hard-core tintin fans? the answer is yes – at least from a visual standpoint. the film was made using the revolutionary performance capture technology, like that used in Avatar, so viewers definitely feel like they’ve been whipped into tintin creator hergé’s comic book world. Jamie Bell (from Billy elliot), who plays tintin, Andy “haddock” serkis and gad elmaleh give shape to the heroes we so love in their “flat” form in the comics. the effect is quite good. so good that we can’t even wait to see the sequel. Ah-hem, that is, well...

Warner

disney

Puss in Boots. ever since first laying eyes on him in “shrek 2” (2004), we’ve fallen for the Latin charm of the fiercest feline in the history of animated film. Film by DreamWorks Studios. In theatres: 30 November. www.pussinbootsthemoovie.com

Coldplay

The much-anTicipa icipaTTed reTurn of

The fifth album from the legendary English group is due out on 24 October. The first single from it, released in June, provides an initial taste…

Text°°° Frédéric rein The single “every Teardrop is A Waterfall”, released on 3 June, has already been the subject of much discussion. With its catchy refrain, this foretaste of Coldplay’s fifth studio album dispelled rumours that the group were going to split. But it also cast a shadow, with the quartet quickly being accused of plagiarism. Chris Martin, Coldplay’s lead singer, immediately sprang to the group’s defence, stating that they had worked with Peter Allen and Adrienne Anderson, composers of the track “I Go to Rio” which inspired “Ritmo de la Noche”, the incriminated tune. Enough said!

SlighTly more elecTric So what about the music itself ? This first extract offers a slightly more electric sound. “Based more on the guitars than on the piano”, as Chris Martin has said. “This is a very personal concept album”, he added. “It presents the feelings and impressions of two lost people. Two people

who are similar, but different from the others, who meet in a hostile environment and become friends while on a journey”. Produced by Brian Eno (U2, David Bowie), this fifth opus, expected in stores on 24 October, should therefore offer a few minor diversions while sticking quite closely to the path they know best. It will certainly increase the number of albums sold, which currently stands at almost 50 million – 8.5 million copies in 2005 for “X&Y” alone, compared to just 50 of their very first (three-track) disc in 1998, “Safety EP”! Times have changed, and Coldplay have moved with them. Of course, as with “Viva la Vida or Death and All His Friends”, the group’s previous album released three years ago, Coldplay’s detractors will condemn it as carefully marketed middle-of-the-road pop. Success comes at a price. But is it really that expensive? www.coldplay.com

EMI Music

Universal Music

sonny Music

eMi Music

Warner Music

JAMAICAN SPIRIT.

cenTre STAge Four years after “Volta”, the unclassifiable Björk is back with a new disc, entitled “Biophilia”, the icelandic singer’s seventh studio album. Out 26 september. www.bjork.com shortly after the release of their latest album “i’m With you” (30 August), Us four-piece the Red Hot Chili Peppers will be performing in switzerland, on 13 december at the hallenstadion, Zurich. redhotchilipeppers.com returning with his ninth album “Black And White America”, Lenny Kravitz will be back on the swiss stage with appearances on 24 November at the Arena in geneva and on 26 November at the hallenstadion in Zurich. www.lennykravitz.com Barbadian singer Rihanna will be at the hallenstadion on 7 November and 10 december supporting her latest album, “Loud”, and undoubtedly performing her hits such as “Umbrella” and “don’t stop the Music”. www.rihannanow.com

www.rumcoruba.com

st ir it u p.

Brian Dettmer a new chapter in art This American artist sculpts old books into contemporary 3D artworks. We asked him to explain his unusual approach…

Text°°° Frédéric rein Photos°°° Briandettmer.com there are plenty of stories told in Brian Dettmer’s works, but no need to turn any pages. The American artist, based in Atlanta, brings a whole new meaning to the art of wordsmithery, carving up books to lend them new life. Texts are manipulated with scalpel and tweezers, flatness gives way to three dimensional tiering. This artist’s pieces transform readers into viewers. With his surgically precise incisions, Dettmer lifts out chapters, slices up stories and images, merges them. He compels us to “read between the lines”, drawing out a new work. These “book autopsies” employ folding, sanding, rolling and multiple layers of varnish, inter-stacking and collaging separate tomes to produce startling objects, often far removed from the classic form of books, even though no external elements are added. We interviewed 37-year-old Brian Dettmer, who took us on a trip to the outer limits of design, graphics and sculpture.

Brian Dettmer, how should your works be interpreted? I would like people to reflect on the way we consume information, on the potential loss of ideas and lack of stability related to the constant changes in digital media formats, driven by commercial interests. The book is currently in an interesting position. With the ever greater ability to consult information online, it is losing its monopoly and function a little more every day. Yet no one wants to see it disappear completely. The words and images found in book form offer an inexhaustible richness and an infinite source of exploration. It is important to remember the true value of the book... So do you hate new media formats? I don’t reject the age I live in. It’s wonderful to have such quick access to information. As an artist, I don’t know how I would function without the internet. But we also need to consider the short-term consequences, think about how our grandchildren will be able to see photos, when the format is constantly changing, how ideas are recorded and accessed.

57 | DREISSIG GRAD

How did you come up with the idea of altering books? At Columbia College, in Chicago, where I studied painting and sculpture, I was producing large abstract paintings which contained codes and language systems. In 2001, I started cutting up newspapers, telephone directories and books, then placing these fragments on a canvas. Although I felt guilty about torturing them to begin with, it made me see books as a material that can be worked with. I also like knowing that they were once functional. I began by cutting holes and geometric shapes, without thinking too much about the end result. A figure emerged. That was my Eureka moment! How do you select the books that you use? I tend to opt above all for reference books – not much science fiction – because they are the ones most threatened by new information technologies. Sometimes, I have a specific idea in mind and I look for a book to fulfil my concept, while at other times I’m simply looking for a book which can give me an idea. Even if you are able to direct your works, is the final result largely down to luck? Yes, it is, because I don’t control what is going to emerge. I simply choose whether to use one item or another, how to use it, and its relationship to the other pieces. There is a balance between the existing material and my intervention, between chaos and order

– something which is also a major influence on our lives – between my intentions and the reactions of those who see the final result. In my work, I let the viewer reconstruct a story… Five years ago, you were emerging onto the international scene. Since then, you have devoted yourself entirely to your art, with exhibitions in New York, San Francisco, Barcelona… I’m currently living my artistic dream: that of being able to explore my ideas and spend my time on work that I find interesting and worthwhile, as well as having an audience to communicate with.

How much does one of your works cost? They generally range from 4,000 to 30,000 dollars, depending on the size and the amount of detail. A piece takes me between a week and several months, and I work on several at the same time. I have five galleries representing me on a permanent basis, and that works well. The collectors are often contemporary art enthusiasts who are also book lovers.

d. sharomov/Mike horn

d. Ferro/Mike horn

Mike Horn

« I would ha have loved to have lo been by Jacques c cousteau’s sIde ! »

f For four years, Mike Horn’s «Pangaea» criss-crosses the world’s oceans; here, Greenland.

Text°°° Serge greter Having criss-crossed our planet, Mike horn is no stranger to some of its most intimate and far-flung corners. through solo expeditions that pushed the limits of reason, this adventurer from Chateau d’Oex (Vd) conquered the world long ago. But since 2008 he has assumed a somewhat different role—that of passing on some of his expertise in the field to teens from the four corners of the globe. «Pangaea» is the name of the four year expedition which gives adults of tomorrow a unique opportunity to accompany Mike horn (in groups) on parts of a 100,000 km sailing trip (with stops) around the world. «it’s a unique trip because it serves as a platform for young adults who want to discover and explore the natural world, learn to face its challenges, find solutions, and especially, to take action to make things better,» explains Mike horn. this includes concrete actions such as picking up rubbish or releasing baby turtles. A look at a beautiful human adventure.

d. sharomov/Mike horn

Since 2008, this adventurer from Château d’Oex (VD) leads groups of teenagers on a discovery of our planet’s natural riches. One year away from the completion of the «Pangaea» expedition, its leader talks about the ride so far. The North Pole remains an amazing land of discovery for Mike Horn and his young troops ... as do the sand dunes of Mongolia.

Mike Horn, with the «Pangaea» expedition and its environmental aspect, we can’t help but draw comparisons between you and Jacques Cousteau. As a child, his was one of the only programs i was allowed to watch. i would have loved to have been on the Calypso with this man who awakened so many dreams in me. so i decided to build a boat and put that dream within reach of many other youngsters. For the last three years you’ve been circling the globe with teens from around the world. How would you sum up the trip so far? the beauty of our natural world still amazes me as much as ever. My «playground» has unfortunately greatly changed, but seeing young people get involved with the preservation of our planet fills me with hope for the future. What’s on the agenda for this last year of travels? We are currently making our way down from the Arctic along the American coast. the boat will then be docked and we’ll set out on a trek in the Colorado, both to enjoy the natural beauty of the place as well as to explore the consequences that global warming and excessive irrigation have on our ecosystems. We will then set sail for Costa rica, followed by south America. Why isn’t Switzerland on the list of countries visited? Is no environmental action needed here? Our program focuses on natural locations that are little known to man. Also, switzerland is exemplary for its beautiful and well-preserved nature. But our selection camps do take place in switzerland, which gives the youngsters a chance to get to know our country.

d. sharomov/Mike horn

You recently became a Swiss citizen. Since yours is a world without borders, why take the step to become naturalized? i do in fact consider myself to be a citizen of the world. Nevertheless, this soulless document is useful when i travel and when i return to my home in switzerland. it’s easier to land in europe with a swiss passport. On top of that, i’m proud to be swiss and i hope to be a good ambassador for our country, as i have been and continue to be for south Africa. Does the «Pangaea» signify a break from your solo expeditions? Should we read into it a changing of the guard of sorts? this adventure is of course very different from my previous solo expeditions since i’m sharing the know-how that i’ve gained over time. it’s a way of giving back to nature what it has given me. Nonetheless, during this trip i’ve had the chance to go on several solo adventures, such as crossing the coast of Antarctica on ski, exploring the southern part of the south island of New Zealand on foot and by bike, and an oxygen-free ascent of Broad Peak (ed: over 8000 m high), in the himalayas. As for the future, i have many projects planned, including a follow-up to «Pangaea» with more young people. What is the question that you have never been asked and that you would like to be asked? i’m asked many questions, but i never get a chance to ask any of my own! so i’d like to ask the readers of 30°: «do you truly care about our planet? if so, what are you doing about it?» www.mikehorn.com

Vertical adVenture on unknown indian cliffs

62 | thirty degrees

On these pages you will find the last article written by Giovanni Quirici. This exceptional climber, a regular contributor to 30°, passed away on the north face of the Eiger on August 12, just days after having delivered this text to us. In his memory, we are honored to share his passion with you one last time. He leads us into a little explored region of northern India, where he opened up a new 700 m line deep within its massif. Text°°° Giovanni Quirici Photos°°° EliE chEviEux and Yannick BoissEnot

i The Shoshala summit, watching over the village of Raksham. f Giovanni Quirici in the magnificent yellow dihedral of the Trishul Direct line, over 4000 m high.

63 | thirty degrees

sometimes we live through experiences that we don’t truly grasp the meaning of until we’ve reached the end of the road. it’s hard to express on paper what we lived through during those six weeks spent in the Kinnaur, a region of northern india about 50 km from tibet, but we will try our best. A tata, a veritable sardine can on wheels, greets us at the delhi airport. despite the size of our pile of luggage, the driver flashes a friendly smile. After having to repair the cooling fluid tank and a blown tire, the still-smiling driver repeats his mantra: «Little car, little problem!» As we head north, the features of the landscape gradually become increasingly tibetan—the mountains are more numerous, the roads more dangerous. Arrival at shimla the first green hats of the ethnic Kinnaur appear, and become denser as we near the mountains. the saris give way to local traditional dress— baggy pants tight around the ankles, a tunic, a small jacket, and often a large shawl. Beautiful wooden houses, true masterpieces of carpentry, harmoniously blend into the surrounding countryside. Our 40 km/h «cruise» by car has taken about 28 hours! But it matters little, since a journey of vertical exploration can now begin in a region little known to mountain climbers. At raksham, a village of 800 people perched at an altitude of 3100 meters, the region’s shamanic roots intertwine with hinduism and Buddhism. three temples and a pantheon of local deities embody this remote outpost.

Base camp, caressed by the sun’s final rays. Here, it takes three hours to extract three precious litres of water from the snow!

The last few rays of sunlight stroking the Baspa Valley

We find ourselves at the feet of Kinner Kailash, the abode of shiva. the peak that watches over the village is beautiful, but it’s another 1000 meter wall that grabs our attention. We head out to meet it. it was artificially scaled by the spaniard silvia Vidal, but its summit remains untouched. Unfortunately, we did not come properly equipped for a true alpine expedition, and after spending the night at 4,200 m, the verdict is clear: We’ll have to come back with the right gear. After three weeks of attempting all sorts of approaches and digging a few ledges under the constant threat of temperamental weather gods, the stalemate is a bitter pill to swallow. Project two: shoshala Our second project gives us renewed motivation: shoshala, a magnificent peak that looms over the village of raksham. it’s hard to imagine finding a way up this wall, where, in 2000, a group of italians made it up 150 meters before giving up, most likely due to a lack of water. Fortunately for us, some snowfall remains this time. With elie Chevieux and cameraman yannick Boissenot in tow, the threeman ascent begins. Our strategy? Free climbing as far up as we can, and if things get too tough, go artificial. And if we get in too deep, we use the drill to put in a spit. As we scan the wall using binoculars, we spot a few nice cracks, but the rest remains shrouded in mystery. it’s hard to imagine finding a line that can be free climbed. While the wall starts at almost 4000 m, many fissures remain blocked with grass, making the ascent slow and uncertain. As we reach the third pitch, it’s time to get serious. having overcome the first 20 meters, elie finds herself face to face with a 10 meter hollow pillar that’s precariously balanced. We are forced to turn back and look for another line. the next day, we explore the huge yellow dihedral to our right. eureka! Manoeuvring within the width and shape of this rock’s fissure requires a lot of big friends (removable protection used by climbers to protect them-

A surprisingly tough 7a, 500 m above the ground.

65 | thirty degrees

The 700 m line opened by the three climbers.

66 | thirty degrees

i The small village of Raksham shrouded in mist, with Shoshala looming over.

i Giovanni Quirici (front) with Yannick Boissenot on the summit of Shoshala, with the forbidden land of Mount Kinnaur Kailash – the abode of Lord Shiva – as a backdrop. p Base camp, where the sun shined for only 4 days out of a total of 18!

selves in the cracks). it’s 2 p.m. A storm rolls in, right on schedule. yannick and i get the suite ready, while elie descends to the village to bring up fuel and food. Many days spent under the tent test the limits of our patience. today, the wall is completely covered with snow. the day will be marked by checkmates, and wrapped up with noodle soup—our glorious reward at the end of each day. After seven days on the wall, the first 500 meters of this terra incognita are finally below us. But precious time is ticking, and given the horrible weather, our chances of success seem slim at best. it’s difficult to determine how many days still separate us from the summit, but providing we have enough time, we’ll make it! yannick and i decide to change the date on our return flight—elie has to go due to her visa expiring—and we find a few more static ropes to help ensure our success. An avalanche of stones We mount an attack on the last stage of this long trek. it’s early June and the wall is covered with a blanket of snow! the temperature has also dropped. We go back up the static ropes while breaking the ice with our ascenders. We’re still inching along sections ranging from levels 6b to 7a, with a few 7b’s for good measure. We fight to gain ground bit by bit, despite frozen toes in our boots, and succeed

in conquering two more pitches by day’s end. despite the 600 meters that separate us from the ground, it’s still hard to estimate the distance to the top. But thanks to the arrival of the cold front, the weather seems to have stabilized somewhat. the next day, we climb back up the 600 meters of static ropes. everything seems to be going well until a huge rock fall comes crashing down towards yannick. One of the large rocks slices both the static and safety ropes. thankfully, yannick is ok! One of these rock avalanches has also punctured our tent, which doesn’t make our nights any easier. And there we are again, a bit closer to the sky and a bit further from the ground. yannick heads up the first pitch and scales its 50 meters without the need for spits. Next, i join him to launch myself up the next one. to my great surprise, after scaling a nasty crack, the summit itself appears before me. i quickly climb the remaining meters that separate me from our goal. Once on top, i turn and shout, «summit!» the peak is so narrow that it almost feels like i’m straddling the saddle of a horse. still in shock of having made it, i drive our 39th spit—over 19 pitches—into the rock. the 18 days spent at base camp and the 10 days on the wall are swept away by this glorious moment. But our journey is not over yet! We still have to

take down all the static ropes and try to clean up a few pitches. the weather has again turned nasty, and the rain and snow are relentless. After three days and a few clean pitches, we decide it’s time to declare mission complete. in the village, some of the locals have been following our adventures through binoculars. Our return to civilization marks the start of another adventure, one that will lead us to new human connections.

to rEad

giovanni Quirici has also just published «the thinker without thoughts» (editions Arium). As explained on the cover of this little book, it is «a hymn to life, the story of a fascinating discovery of india as well as an encounter with oneself». A book to read and reflect on! Available in Payot bookstores or at www.arium.ch

Giovanni Quirici nears a summit that still seems so distant.

In the heart of the 4 Vallées…

Mont-Fort 3300m

Special offer: 1 week from CHF 499.– per pers. The offer includes : 7 nights in an apartment + 6-day skipass « 4 Vallées » + access to sport centre Available from the 7th of January to 4th of February 2012 and from 10th March to 14th of April 2012. Subject to availability. nendaz.ch - 027 289 55 89

Daniel Perler GreetinG the biG 6-0 with a banG! The sixtieth birthday of this postal worker from Prangins (VD) will reach some mighty heights. The mountain climber will celebrate it in sixes style, climbing 60 peaks each over 6000 meters high in the Andes Mountains!

Climbing Mount Vinson (4892 m), Antarctica.

Authentic

Stephan Siegrist and Pro Trek

Text°°° Jean-Marc Sueur Photos°°° alain Blanc Twilight does not carry the same significance for everyone. While some incessantly chase an elusive rest and a well-deserved and renewing retirement, others continually strive to find the time to finally play out that one great act, that culmination of a full and satisfied life. daniel Perler, born on May 6th, 1952, postal worker emeritus from Prangins (Vd), is unquestionably one of the latter. For him, bedroom slippers come with mountain climbing spikes. On his sixtieth birthday, this «seven summiteer»—having solo climbed the highest peaks of Asia, North and south America, Africa, europe, Antarctica and Oceania!— doesn’t exactly fit the profile of a sudoku expert. his personal challenge is much more altruistic, and is found high on the peaks where no geranium blooms. Three good reaSonS To cliMB his ambitions are threefold: Athletic first and foremost, climbing 60 peaks more than 6000 meters high in the Andes (second highest mountain range in the world after the himalayas), with only the help of a driver and a cook. Next, humanitarian. each meter climbed above the 6k mark will generate one franc for the terre des hommes international Federation (he expects to raise more than 17,000 francs in donations). And lastly, educational, thanks to his close relationship with local schoolchildren all along a tour that will extend from december 2011 to May 2012 and cross 5 south American countries (ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina). doing good while doing well «Climb to help». An evocative motto, a dream, a priceless project that does, however, carry a price tag which all the enthusiasm, altruism and courage in the world cannot alone fulfil. the trip’s budget is not yet sown up, providing opportunity for those who wish to add a stone to this edifice that is daniel Perler, postal philanthropist. www.azimutdreams.ch

The satisfaction of having (nearly) reached the goal, at the summit of Mount Vinson, the 6th of the 7 summits.

Foto / visualimpact.ch / Thomas Ulrich

PRG-240-8ER CHF 349.–

www.protrek.eu

Trail Verbier SainT-bernard

Taking on The UlTraS

raCe resulTs 40% DNFs for La Boucle, 15% DNFs for the Traversée and two noncritical incidents requiring helicopter assistance.

In its third year, the TVSB – held 2-3 July – boasted a perfect course. How do we know it was perfect? We ran it! Here’s the story. Text°°° Caroline Henry Trail running is no easy feat, especially for beginners. While you may be an expert hiker or top road runner, trail running is a whole other story. The sport not only requires solid physical conditioning, but it takes you to your limits – and then some. We decided to lace up anyway, alongside the nearly 1000 participants from 22 different countries who have been bitten by the trail bug, for the third instalment of the Trail Verbier Saint-Bernard. There are two courses to choose from. The first, starting and ending at Verbier, is “La Boucle”, a 110 km course with climbs of 6900 m crossing the three valleys along the Drance. The second, the “Traversée”, zigzags through the Saint-Bernard area from Fouly to Verbier for 61 km with 4000 m of climbs. For our first go, we “settled” for just running the 11 km section common to both races between Lourtier and Verbier with climbs of 1400 m and downhills of 800 m. Not bad for starters.

an unCompromising Course So much for easing into it. This segment of the course begins with an entire 1400 m climb – up a (very) steep hill. Did we mention that it is the finish for other race participants who must surely be wiped out by this point? Even with trekking poles, the climb is tough. You have to watch your effort, control your breath and find your rhythm. Luckily, weather conditions are excellent and the trail is smooth, well marked and partly shaded. The higher you go, the more magnificent the view gets. Lourtier lies below and mountain pastures above. We’re just

La Boucle Verbier-Verbier Men: 1. Ludovic Pommeret (FRA) 14 hr 08; 2. Ryan Baumann (SUI) 15 hr 07; 3. Renaud Rouanet (FRA) 15 hr 57. Women: 1. Denise Zimmermann (SUI) 17 hr 16; 2. Karine Herry (FRA) 17 hr 39; 3. Colette Borcard (SUI) 18 hr 46. Traversée La Fouly-Verbier Men: 1. Emmanuel Vaudan (SUI) 6 hr 49; 2. Marcel Theux (SUI) 7 hr 02; 3. Vincent Mabboux (FRA) 7 hr 23. Women: 1. Mary Jérôme Vaudan (SUI) 9 hr 19; 2. Lena Pichard (SUI) 9 hr 33; 3. Patricia Joris (SUI) 9 hr 42.

on Tap for 2012 The fourth instalment of Trail Verbier Saint-Bernard will take place 7-8 July 2012 and will feature a beginner’s course between Liddes and Verbier (29 km with climbs of 2500 m) in addition to La Boucle and the Traversée.

starting to feel the first signs of fatigue when the leading “real” runners come up behind us. They started early this morning and have a hundred kilometres under their belts. And they’ve just passed us. Smiling. Hats off ! We’re also smiling – not only can we see the drink station, but we’re about to start the last downhill. The worst is behind us. a roCking ambianCe In Verbier, the mood is lively. Spectators cheer on the leaders as they come in. We too relish in crossing the finish line, meeting up with our friends who’ve come to support us, and being able to say “We did it!”. After showering, we come back to celebrate our achievement with the other runners, applaud those who are still arriving and rehash the race as we chow down on our plates of spaghetti. www.trailvsb.ch

François Perraudin

Verbier down the runs on

MTb MT 74 | thirty degrees

This Valais resort has built its reputation on its skiable freeride terrain and jet-set clientele. And yet, its slopes also have much to offer in summertime—enough for MTB lovers of all levels to ride to their heart’s content. Text°°° AlbAn Aubert Photos°°° PAtrice Schreyer Verbier is perched at 1500 meters above sea level on an idyllic plateau in the Bagnes valley, Valais. it is easily reached by a wide and well-maintained road. this large resort, perfect for families, presents the opportunity to enjoy a range of activities. in the event of bad weather, you can always shop, visit an alpine museum (espace Alpin) or enjoy the indoor pool. But if the weather permits, there’s nothing better than the thrill of some gorgeous runs, which, typically, start at the foot of a glacier.

Fun For the whole FAmily starting this year, Verbier has a great drawing card for families who love mountain biking: tsopu is a blue run that is true blue. this Valais resort has long had a reputation of only serving up slopes that are very steep and difficult. No more! the team led by Fabrice tirefort has managed to adapt and create a run that everyone can enjoy. the track is in two parts. the first part is great fun, with plenty of banked turns, and includes a few pit stops where one can take a breather and a bite in the alpine meadows. Part two is a connecting track that winds its way back to the gondola take-off. this section is less exciting, but has the advantage of being easy as well as traversing a majestic setting that includes a view overlooking the entire village and the Bagnes valley. exPert riderS only By contrast, tire’s Fire offers advanced riders everything they need to be happy. this descent has played host to many legs of the swiss Cup, and includes a stony path, roots, large banked turns, natural jumps, a selection of lines to choose from and a generally consistently steep incline. you’ll need a sturdy pair of arms to charge down the full length of this track and over its obstacles at top speed without a stop! it’s a great challenge—and you can even time yourself with a stopwatch system available to all riders and which can also be used on the resort’s three runs.

f Fabrice «Trifon» Tirefort, head of the bikepark, during a lesson on drifting.

2500 meter VerticAl droP if it’s vertical drop you want, just head over to the base of Mont-Fort, 2900 meters up! the 2500 meter descent down to Verbier on the tsopu run will take you down to the level of the golf course. Next you can take the savoleyres gondola up to more than 2300 meters high, from where you can ride down to saxon, on the banks of the rhone river! Verbier also offers a third track (or run), which is in fact a black run, or, in rainy conditions, a double-black. Wouaïy is a superb, natural run that takes you through some incredible bits of forest. it’s this official downhill run through the forest that unquestioningly offers the most spectacular environment. We also had the chance to go down the run on a foggy day, which added an extra unique touch. the track is well designed. this year many new constructions have been built which provide plenty of jumps, and the run’s ultra-tight turns take the level of difficulty up a few notches. At the halfway mark, the incline diminishes and the track gets really fun. One can zigzag through the trees, catch some air off of some of the jumps that have been built, and keep up a great pace without having to peddle or brake. this section, between the hattay and Clambin, was the icing on the cake for us. Loved it!

i Alban Aubert on the alpine pastures overlooking Verbier. ff Seb Dassi threads his way through ancient fir trees. f The gondola’s landing at Ruinettes. d Seb Dassi and Alban Aubert at the start of the DH track.

Verbier—cAlm And excitement if you want off-slope night life in the village of Verbier, you’ll need to come between mid-July and mid-August. While the resort is large, the rest of the summer season is relatively quiet—none of those crazy party nights one sees in the winter. Few restaurants or bars are open, and sometimes you almost have to resort to speaking in english to order a drink!

PrActicAl PointS

MTB info. www.verbierbikepark.ch Timetable. Open until October 23, on weekends. Bikepass prices (per day). Adults: 30 francs; children: 15 francs. Freelap stopwatch. 10 francs a day; 6 francs for half-day. Hotels. hôtel La rotonde, 027/771.65.25, www.hotelrotonde.com, rotonde@verbier.ch; hôtel de Verbier, 027/775.21.21, hotelverbier@ verbier.ch; Les touristes, 027/771.21.47, verbier@verbier.ch Bars and restaurants. harold’s hamburgers & internet WiFi Café, well located, fast food, 027/771.62.43, www.harolds.ch; Le Millénium, international cuisine, 027/771.99.00, www.lemillenium.ch

Julbo White SeSSion Se SeSS SS SSion ion In search of the ordInary extraordInary It’s the real deal! After the resounding success of Julbo White Session 2011, the French brand is back and proclaiming loud and clear: 2012 is just around the corner! Explanation included. i Luc Fantin, one of four winners of the Julbo White Session, speeds down one of the tracks of the Abriès ski resort. f Thomas Diet, mid-trick. sEnak Gavaggio in the lead, followed by Maud, Verena, Ophélie David, Martin, Luc, and Thomas Diet, at the Abriès resort. Fresh powder as far as the eye can see—but no lifts!

Text°°° Jean-Marc Sueur Photos°°° TriSTan Shu Lights! action! it’s the antithesis of your grandma’s ski ride. it’s for rebels; those who dare but who don’t leave their brain at the door. Freeride skiing is about «designed freedom», and Julbo, like others, do their best to endorse controlled freedom and cultivate their popular-elite image by hosting the Julbo White session. event sign-up is online only, in the form of a game (www.julbo-eyewear.com). Only 16 entries are accepted, but there are some consolation prizes to dry the tears of the many who are turned back (nearly 2000 in the last event). the Chosen Few head out to the French resort of La grave-Meije (hautes-Alpes) for two days of free expression in the Mecca of offpiste skiing. if that wasn’t enough, they ski in the company of some of the pros from the Julbo team (enak Cavaggio, géraldine Fasnacht, thomas diet, Antoine Montant and Ophélie david—what a team!) and under the attentive and seasoned gaze of an impartial jury whose job is to choose four tough guys and gals who will reach the holy grail: a one week photo and video shoot that will be part of the next Julbo ad campaign! A renowned location, a few days to have a blast surrounded by the best in the business (freeriders, photographers and ad designers)— that should be more than enough to entice a host of those suffering from mountain fever. And in the end, four lucky and passionate French, swiss or eU boys and girls (two girls and two boys in 2011) will have only paid the price of a train (or plane) ticket to spend a dream week in the company of those who are most likely plastered on the walls of their rooms! All that is needed for the chance to enjoy this unique experience is some ambition, restlessness, mountain skills and an internet connection! (Applications for the 2012 event open on september 30, 2011.) the 2011 winners, Verena Fendl, Maud Koch, Luc Fantin and Martin Vaillant, still can’t believe their luck.

80 | thirty degrees

where

Turkey Far from the beaten tourist trails, the northeastern part of this eclectic country turns up some unexpected natural beauty. In the region of Rize, one passes from the shores of the Black Sea to the Kaçkar national park, where alpine pastures overlook huge impenetrable forests and fields of tea. Trekking enthusiasts take note!

Turns

green Text°°° Frédéric rein Photos°°° christian Bugnon up here, on the heights of the rize in north-eastern turkey, life comes in shades of green.—A chloroformic green that blankets the surrounding hills and mountains. to one side, sloping tea fields, dotted with a multitude of small round bushes. to the other, an impenetrable jungle, which could hold its own with any tropical forest, where pine trees freely mix and mingle with a host of other species. here and there the carpet of green is broken by a cliff, or more often a waterfall, or the minaret of a mosque pointing to the heavens, or yet again the roof of a traditional house—small structures of dark wood built on stilts to keep food safely out of reach of rodents of all stripes. rivers sparkle like silver serpents through the valleys. Chief among them is the Firtina, with a swift current suited for rafting. But in the summertime, hiking is the main activity. heading out from the small village of Ayder, in the heart of the Kaçkar national park, the possibilities are nearly endless. One of them, a 4-5 hour round-trip trek, starts in the hamlet of Kavron. Following the trail, we emerge from the dense forests—haunted by bears and wolves—out into an alpine landscape. Large trees give way to closely cropped grass, on which herds of cattle contentedly feast. A floral symphony resonates with every step—blue and yellow punctuated with the purple of wild orchids. it’s a kaleidoscope of colours, with scattered patches of (more or less) white névés. the air is permeated by the fresh smell of wet clover, crystalized in this homeric landscape through which runs a lovely little stream. At 3000 meters up, after about three hours of fairly challenging hiking, we reach a small ridge overlooking three charming mountain lakes. Picnic time! in the wintertime, these mountain ranges, including the Kaçkar, become the playground of expert skiers who are dropped onto the immaculate white powder from helicopters.

Up in the heights of the Rize, bridges abound. As do the tea fields. f This waterfall faces the small village of Ayer.

p The pastures of the Kaçkar national park are ideal for small herds of cows. The Sumela monastery, nestled against the mountainside, is said to have been founded in 386 by two Athenian priests. It is sometimes shrouded in a thick fog, giving it an even more mystical dimension. Nature is never far away.

a mountainside monastery We’re a long way from the Black sea and its beaches strewn with large boulders. equally distant are the huge blue and burgundy banners that fly over the town of trabzon, whose football team has managed to climb to the top of the national rankings in a country where obsession with a round ball can be likened to religious fervour. speaking of religion, our next stop is the monastery of sumela, on the outskirts of trabzon. the day we visit, the building is shrouded in a mantle of mist, gracing the site with added mystique. the monastery is said to have been originally founded in 386 by two Athenian priests, but only assumed its current form in the 13th century. Nestled into a mountainside, this monastic complex includes a rock church with an adjacent chapel whose inner and outer walls are decorated with many frescoes. there, one can also explore a number of study rooms, a spring revered by the Orthodox greeks, and the kitchens. Far from the white sand beaches of Antalya and the fairy chimneys of Cappadocia is a less-known side of turkey that is pleasantly unexpected—turkey in a haunting shade of green.

Keystone

Traditional houses are made of dark wood and usually connected to a small structure on stilts where food supplies are kept safe from rodents of all kinds.

a stopover in istanBul the air route that leads to trabzon runs through istanbul. so why not take the opportunity to stop over for a few days in this city set on seven hills and straddling the divide between Asia and europe? two bridges, suspended above the Bosporus, link the more ancient Asian istanbul (Üsküdar, Kadiköy, etc.) with its contemporary european sibling. it’s in the latter that the most prestigious monuments are found, such as the iconic hagia sophia, an ode to the Byzantine power of old. it is the largest Christian religious building, though it was turned into a mosque when the town was captured by the sultan Mehmet ii. Nearby sits the Blue Mosque, the most famous and elegant of the city, with its gorgeous multiple layers of domes and its six minarets, and its interior nearly entirely covered with tiles from iznik. in the wake of these two edifices lies the topkapi Palace, residence of the Ottoman sultans, a city within a city overlooking the Bosporus and the sea of Marmara. this Byzantium of the greeks, this Constantinople of the eastern roman empire, this capital of the Ottoman sultans, which in 1985 was classified a UNesCO World heritage site, is also a megatropolis that is home to nearly 18 million people, with a nightlife rivalling that of any major european capital—and the sweet fragrance of the Orient to boot!

alaska

bear country Some people are happy to cruise along between whales and icebergs. Others launch an assault on the mainland, with its omnipresent glaciers and expansive bush that is crossed by no road. Solitude guaranteed. Welcome to a world where timetables play second fiddle to Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s whims.

84 | thirty degrees

Text and photos°°° Claude Hervé-Bazin

Alaska is a land of mountains. From the Alaska Range to the Wrangell Mountains, there are more than 24 peaks over 4000 meters high!

alaska is bear country! This slogan, plastered on the very doors of the airport in Anchorage, doubles as a warning. With 300 black bears and 60 grizzlies within the city limits itself, this Alaskan city is smack in the middle of nature. some plantigrades don’t hesitate to come out of the woods to go through the trash, fish salmon out of the Campbell Creek estuary, gulp down dog food left on porches or explore sheds that have been left open in search of a little snack. Local stories talk of bears playing with golf balls. Or a moose who took a dip in someone’s pool—or perhaps fell in? in another, a young male apparently head-butted a hydroplane—no doubt the latter’s «horns» had defied him. the stage is set. in this country, nature is king. elsewhere it is reduced to a bare minimum, boxed in reserves as if they were parentheticals into which we periodically plunge for a breath of fresh air. None of that here. From one end of Alaska to the other, spanning an area three times the size of France, parks are tracks of virgin territory, themselves bordering other virgin territories where the human footprint is almost unknown. Wide open unmarked spaces, where even the trails disappear into the wilderness. On rare occasions, a road dares disrupt the expanse. But they barely make a dent. A few feet from the asphalt, the boreal forests take back what is theirs.

Half of THe glaCiers on THe planeT Whichever way you look, mountains rise up from the earth. the Wrangell-st elias National Park alone contains nine of the 16 highest American peaks. A hundred or more glaciers are hidden within. so it’s no surprise that Alaska holds more than half of all the glaciers on our planet! that said, global warming is reducing their thickness, and the most easily accessible ones, which could be famously seen drivethrough style in Portage, near Anchorage, are further removed from view. But plenty remains to be fascinated by. Further north, the Alaskan range is crowned by the white cathedral of Mount denali (McKinley), the highest point in North America (6194 m). some people wisely opt to make the journey by school bus, in a safari lasting a few hours. it’s a bit like going to the zoo, but without the fences. through the windows one can gaze on moose, bighorns, cari-

bous and grizzlies, as they go about their day. As for campers, they get a special bus. the gear piles up high for the bumpy five hour ride up to Wonder Lake— a true holy grail. At night, if the weather permits (one evening a week on average), the denali shines. it’s the loveliest post card of Alaska. everyone, clap your hands! No, that wasn’t to applaud; but rather to kill a few mosquitoes. Congratulations! you now have a dozen or more squished on your palms. Mosquito nets are a must if you wish to keep your sanity.

Just a short hop away by seaplane, and civilization and its landmarks have vanished.

THose good ol’ BusH planes in talkeetna on Lake hood, other large insects are buzzing. Piper super Clubs. Cessna 180s and 185s. And of course, the must-have dehavilland Beavers. No, not real beavers, just good ol’ bush planes with plenty of battle scars. some branch scratches on the paint, dirt splats and some mud—just the ticket. On board, a bearded driver chews some gum, while two passengers hug the windows and a mountain of luggage. And we’re off ! the plane’s big wheels, hyperexpanded to absorb the rough landing in some remote corner of the bush, bounce along the tarmac of the short take-off strip like a rubber ball. Landing strip? No such luck. Just a track, barely noticeable, a flat little spot overtaken by willows, the sea, a lake, and a glacier not far away. the first flyover scatters the animals lying around. the second attempt yields success. Bush plane ride ends, adventure begins; Alaska bears its soul. As the Beaver flies away,

An adorable arctic ground squirrel poses as a scout.

the last sounds of civilization trail off into thin air. We’re left with nothing but the gurgling of the river, the whistle of the wind, and the piercing solitary cry of a golden plover. the hum of mosquitoes. the crackling of wood that has finally yielded to fire. expected return: One week. Weather permitting. And if the plane manages to land.

praCTiCal poinTs Getting there A flight to Alaska (Anchorage) from geneva costs at least 1400 francs at the height of summer. the trip usually involves two layovers at Us airports, depending on the airline (Continental, United, delta, American). Weather Ocean climate in the southeast of the state, with relatively mild winters and cool wet summers. Continental and arctic to the north, with large temperature swings in the heart of the state. the best time to travel is from early June to late August—though July can be quite rainy. After that, autumn sets in, with stunning colours in september. Links www.travelalaska.com www.alaska.gov/visitorHome.html www.wildlife.alaska.gov www.nps.gov/dena http://www.nps.gov/kefj/index.htm www.alaskageographic.org

TECHNO In today’s connected life, Facebook and Twitter have become indispensable. But the line between real and virtual has become blurred, turning our free time into money for social networking creators.

What ’s Really at take in social netWoRking

Text°°° eric rivera

friends, playing games or hanging our laundry out in public – with consequences that may or may not be so great. however, things are viewed a bit differently from the other side. how many times a day do we find our inboxes stuffed with advertising emails? this is the perverse and absurd downside to social networking sites. the information we naively divulge during our time online is collected by these sites, to then be used by others to turn a profit as they create perfectly targeted ads. it all works so smoothly that we sometimes feel like our best friend has been edged out of the deal!

Not so long ago, creating your own website was cool. then we moved into the blog era, which is still hanging on, if only by a thread. Over the last few years, a major change has shaken things up: the development of social networking sites, and more specifically, Facebook and twitter. these sites make self-expression and sharing easy. they have brought wealth to some, like the controversial Mark Zuckerberg. Others have been motivated to join the race, one that seems to have already been won by Facebook. One example is google, who, never short on ideas or means, has released its g+. the thing is, the stakes are huge. each user is a potential customer for the companies that invest heavily in targeted advertising. We just see this as a fun way to spend our free time, sharing interests with real or online

Facebook – For a Fee? the principle is pernicious. As we communicate via social networking, we give up our rights to posted content to the sites’ creators. Next, integrated word-search and facial-recognition algorithms – hotly debated and considered illegal in many countries – take over. Under the guise of offering services to make our lives easier, these sites are just there to learn more about us in order to advertise with diabolical effectiveness. But not so fast – there may be a hitch in this seemingly perfect process. some investors have considered creating their own networking sites rather than investing in someone else’s. if these companies manage to do it, things could change, making Facebook and company paying services. Making them ever so less interesting...

TECHNO google enteRs the os aRena

Android’s success in the smartphone market seems to have given the internet giant new wings. Now, Google has launched into the fray of PC operating systems with its Chrome OS. Text°°° eric rivera every computer requires an operating system to function—whether it be Windows, Mac Os X, or Linux. these are now joined by a new entrant: Chrome Os. With its launch, google is playing a new card. this operating system stands out by being fully integrated into the current «cloud computing» trend, where everything is stored and synchronized on the internet. in partnership with two major manufacturers, samsung and Acer, Chrome Os comes preinstalled on laptops that are similar to the small and hugely successful netbooks, and sold at a similar price point. sporting a minimalist set of features, these small computers are powered by google’s Os and are ready for use only 8 seconds after booting, providing one has a permanent internet connection.

Unlike Windows and other competitors, all activity takes place within the browser and its extensions. in other words, one can access the internet and use all of google’s online services, such as office document processing, email, Picasa (photos), as well as any other application that can run inside the Chrome browser, around which the entire Os is built. No iNstallatioN, No updates there is nothing for the user to install or update, since the applications aren’t running on the machine itself, but rather remotely, in the cloud. the same goes for saving and storing files. since all data is stored in the cloud, these small laptops only need a minimal amount of storage. As a result, the risk of security problems and viruses is greatly reduced. With a 6 to 8 hour battery life, 3g and Wi-Fi, they embody a highly attractive concept for those who need to be continuously connected to the web and take care of the typical office-related tasks. But while google plays the cutting-edge card, the question is whether users will be willing to entrust the company with all their data? Only time will tell. One thing is for sure: the telecoms see it as a potentially lucrative business, entering the saturated mobile phone market at just the right time.

By christian Bugnon

salEwa – alBonaska PowErtEx JackEt this technical, lightweight, robust 3 layered Powertex jacket is tailor-made for extreme skiing. the cut and style were designed with help from the salewa Freeski team members. the integral elasticated net powder skirt can be zipped onto the skeena trousers for overall protection. Long under-arm vents, adjustable hem and cuffs, and internal cuff gaiters make this jacket an absolute must this winter! www.salewa.com

JulBo – PiPElinE the twin Flex structure of this versatile model gives an elegant appearance but more importantly, extreme comfort for the wearer. the side-pieces are designed to be soft to the skin, lightweight and breathable. the wide Zebra lenses givee an all-round view in all weathers and the sweat blocker lining prevents droplets from marring vision. www.julbo-eyewear.com

thiErry MuglEr – a*MEn, sPicy instincts intense and vibrant, A*Men plays on two contrasting dimensions: the woody orientals of patchouli and vanilla unfurl their strength and charisma while the spicy roasted Arabica provides originality and character. essence of red pepper adds extraordinary power to the warm virile notes. www.thierrymugler.com

MaMMut nordwand tl – wEighs in at 1888 graMs Nothing tops these shoes. they won the 2011 Outdoor industry award. With or without studs, the inner sole in strong carbon gives maximum stability, whatever the terrain. the Nordwand tL is great for winter excursions, climbing on ice or multi-pitch. robust, warm and incredibly light, they round off the Mammut eiger extreme range perfectly. www.mammutsportsgroup.ch

dakinE - hEli Pro collEction, autuMn/ wintEr 2011-2012 dakine akine stirs skiers and snowboarders out of hibernation with plenty of zingy colours and patterns. An exclusive heli Pro range was designed by the team dakine riders, who even went as far as to design gloves in the same style as the bags. see the whole range at www.dakine.ch

canon – PowErshot sx150 is With a 14.1 megapixel sensor and hd video anyone can take magnificent shots. this camera also boasts a 12x optical zoom and a 28mm wide-angle lens. Whether you’re a smart Auto person, or prefer to take total control, this camera has a mode to suit everyone. Comes in black, grey or red. For more information see www.canon.ch.

Fiat – aBarth 695 triButo FErrari, a diaMond on Four whEEls the road version ersion of the Abarth 500 is the fastest, most powerful version ever. the Abarth and Ferrari technicians have made a few adjustments to the motor and the interior. these two big names in the italian automobile utomobile industry have contributed their passion and devotion to creating a very special exclusive model. www.fiat.ch

sorEl has thE wind in its sails sorel’s current 2011 autumn/winter collection sets itself apart with its extravagant design, cult shapes and high quality materials. the new “Fearless” campaign features audacious, independent women who know what they want. the star of the collection is the tofino boot. these boots have style, comfort and unrivalled versatility, and they’ll keep your feet warm and dry too. www.sorel.com

By christian Bugnon

coruM - adMiraL’s cuP seafender 48 deeP dive this latest addition to the extreme family is waterproof to 1000 meters. A helium valve, safety-latched rotating bezel and highlyluminous markers make this imposing and first-rate watch all the hallmark of a true professional instrument. www.corum.ch

huBLot - King PoWer 48 MM oceanograPhic 4000 this is a watch equipped with cutting-edge technology, ergonomically designed to be efficient and easy to handle. it is designed to push the limits of the possible ... all the way down to 4000 meters deep! the Oceanographic 4000 remains lightweight thanks to its titanium casing, or in the case of the All Black version, carbon fibre. www.hublot.com

technoMarine uf6 MagnuM deeP BLue Just as the ocean is in perpetual motion, this watch‘s case—waterproof to 200 meters and covered in blue titanium carbide—changes, through a subtle play of light, from a bright electric blue to the midnight blue of the deep. the fine details of its complex case provide all of the features and precision of a high-end chronograph. www.technomarine.com

tag heuer - aQuaracer 500M autoMatic chronograPh (44MM) includes all of the needed functions for a deep dive into the big blue: optimized visibility, a rugged and functional case, easy handling with diving gloves, and high-performance safety features. With a style that is contemporary and assertive, and waterproof to 500 meters, the Aquaracer sets a new standard. www.tagheuer.com

aLPina - saiLing the result of a close collaboration with Niceforyou, the italian team of the catamaran extreme 40, the new Alpina sailing collection underscores a lasting commitment to the extreme sailing series. these new models, equipped with a countdown for the start of the regatta, are available with a black or white dial, and come with a miniature extreme 40 catamaran. www.alpina-watches.com

casio ProtreK 2500 Multifunctional thanks to a triple sensor, this watch can be used both on the mountains and in the sea. in addition to a compass, barometer and thermometer, this model, guaranteed to be waterproof to 20 bars, sports functions directly related to extreme water sports and which provide important data, including a tide graph. to top it off, it has a radio-controlled atomic time sync and is solar powered. www.casio.com

now to your area

There is no end to creative ideas, original places, unique settings and good taste in Switzerland. 30° has picked out a few favourites for you. Text°°° serGe Greter

Le simpLon

this Lausanne cafe is halfway between London and istanbul. its name takes you back to 1883, when the Venice simplon-Orient-express railway line that would link these two great cities was inaugurated. A stopover for rail travellers and Lausanne residents alike, this restaurant offers european cuisine with a Mediterranean flair. don’t miss out on the vegetarian tagine, fish and meat dishes. some evenings you might find your dinner being prepared by a celebrity. Others, local artists find themselves on centre stage. And when the weather’s nice, this bistro-style restaurant extends out on to a terrace in a pedestrian-only zone. Le simplon will take you away without having to leave the banks of the Lausanne.

Le Simplon, rue du Simplon 17, 1006 Lausanne, 021/616.31.04, www.cafedusimplon.ch Open Monday to Friday 7 am to 11.30 pm and Saturday from 5 pm to midnight.

Curiositas

At Curiositas, a curious cafe-restaurant, dine on risotto or cod with bacon while admiring the African masks and butterfly collections. Or have a drink next to a stuffed animal head. here in this immense (450 m²) cupboard of curiosities in the heart of geneva’s Bains district, fascinating objects of all kinds are displayed under glass or hung on walls, leading some to wonder and surprising many! the place was once a factory for physics instruments and hasn’t forgotten its roots. Cement floors (now waxed), 5-metre high ceilings and tall windows are still there to prove it. As far as restaurants go, Curiositas is a real find!

Curiositas, rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 8/10, 1205 Geneva, 022/321.30.37, www. curiositas.ch Open Tuesday to Friday 10 am to 3 pm and 5 pm to 2 am, and Saturday 5 pm to 2 am.

Le Bureau

the name of this new restaurant-lounge – “the office” – just might scare some away. Why would anyone want to go to the office after work? to rack up those overtime hours, as the owners of this café in hues of cream and chocolate would tell you. this is not just any café in Neuchâtel. Between meals, people are busy coworking. this is the place to be for anyone developing new technologies, services and innovative solutions who wants to build up their network. in between the professional hobnobbing, the computers get pushed aside for lunch and dinner. At Le Bureau, work can wait for the inventive and delectable cuisine. Job well done! Le Bureau, rue de l’Orangerie 4, 2000 Neuchâtel, 032/724.48.68, www. resteaubureau.ch Open Monday 8 am to 2 pm, Tuesday to Friday 8 am to midnight, and Saturday 5 pm to midnight.

impreSSum 30° degreeS magazine

(issued 2002-2011) iSSue no.36, auTumn 2011 Cover photo: Keystone

Grecian vertiGo in Santorini

Editior CB Communication sàrl rue du simplon 20 – Case Postale 386 1001 Lausanne - switzerland info@cbcommunication.com / www.cbcommunication.com tel: +41 21/ 312 41 41, Fax: +41 21/ 312 41 11 Advertising for French-speaking Switzerland + English version (internet & iPad) www.30degres.tv www.30degrees.tv christian.bugnon@cbcommunication.com Advertising for German-speaking Switzerland www.30grad.tv Blueorange Media gmbh Karin Witschi 076/ 379 82 07 kw@blueorange-media.ch sonja Kupper 062/ 772 21 56 sk@blueorange-media.ch Editor-in-chief christian.bugnon@cbcommunication.com Deputy Editor-in-chief frederic.rein@cbcommunication.com Editorial assistant info@cbcommunication.com Writers (in order of appearance) Christelle Coulon, Frédéric rein, serge greter, estelle daval / espace Contemporain, saskia galitch, giovanni Quirici,Jean-Marc sueur, Caroline henry, Alban Aubert, Claude hervé-Bazin, eric rivera, Christian Bugnon Photographers (in order of appearance) National geographic / Maxut Zhumayev, sarah Marquis, elie Chevieux, Marc-Alain Zimmerli, terrafugia, renault, Benjamin thouard, Anthony Caldo, Andrea Badrutt, Nicolas henry,Keystone, summit entertainment ,Palma Kolansky/sony Music, Warner, disney, dreamWorks, eMi Music, sonny Music, Warner Music, Universal Music, Briandettmer.com ,Courtesy of the Artist and Kinz + tillou Fine Art, d. Ferro/Mike horn, d. sharomov/ Mike horn, yannick Boissenot, Patrice schreyer, Christian Bugnon, Claude hervé-Bazin Art and layout editors Nicolas Zentner, Mathieu Moret German translation: sabine dröschel English translation: simon till Photo-offset printing: images 3 Printing: swissprinters Lausanne sA Distribution: it’s time to Bienne 30° with subscriptions to 4 issues April / June / September / December Switzerland CHF 23.- Europe € 40.-

Text°°° Claude Hervé-Bazin Some islands are forgotten, tropical, luscious. Others are battered, harsh, born out of the void. santorini, in the Aegean sea, is of the latter kind. As the ferry is engulfed by the crater of a submerged volcano that serves as the island’s natural harbour, a wall of cliffs rise up out of the water around it. 350 meters of lava and hardened ash, the heart of an island eviscerated by a cataclysmic eruption 3500 years ago. some link the event to the mythical Atlantis. And why not? One thing is certain: the fires still burn in the dark shadows of the islets of Kamenei, its waters warmed by the subterranean heat. A perfect swimming hole. Along the tops of the walls, glittering flashes of white mark the presence of ancient villages. Oia, with its rounded curves like those of a dali watch dotted with blue steeples. thira, 587 exhausting steps up from the port, and its twin sister Firostefani. And there, on the cornice, other ships are anchored. the tsitouras Collection hotel, part troglodyte, part acrobat, seems intent on testing the limits of the forces of gravity. gianni Versace, Franco Moschino, Jean-Paul gaultier, Pedro Almodovar— all have succumbed to its vertigo and spectacular view, before retiring to their suites decorated with art objects collected by the hotel’s owners. sea chests, amphoras and Byzantine icons tell the story of their magnificent past in their own inimitable way.

www.tsitouras.com

30° for sale in Swiss newsagents

distributed by:

media partners: