TAKING IN THE SIGHTS AROUND ALASKA’S CAPITAL CITY, JUNEAU
A pedestrian walks the Gold Creek Flume Trail on a soggy morning in Juneau. PHOTO BY MARC LESTER
By M O L L I E B A R N E S
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uneau is flanked by white snowcapped mountains, fields of blue ice, verdant green forests and frigid turquoise waters, making it the perfect town for travelers who love cozy small-town vibes, as well as those who seek extreme outdoor adventures in nature. Long the land inhabited by the Tlingit, Haida and Tsimshian people, the capital city of Alaska got its Western name and infrastructure during the Gold Rush. This waterfront town is an outdoor enthusiast’s haven, and boasts that it has more miles of trails and mining tunnels than road (of which there are just 190). Make sure you pack your rain gear, as this town of 32,000 gets 70 inches of rain a year, and has around 235 days of precipitation. But no matter the forecast, locals and travelers alike will be out enjoying nature. As the Scandinavians say, “There is no bad weather, only bad clothes.” The absolute must-see for most travelers is the Mendenhall Glacier. There are many ways to see the glacier, depending on your level of comfort. The West Glacier Trail is by far one of the best bangs for your buck. While it includes a little bit of scrambling (up a waterfall, for example) the payoff is worth far more than it will cost you to get there. The trail is 3.5 miles out and back and brings you right up to the face of the glacier. For less experienced hikers, Above and Beyond Alaska offers guided hiking tours. For a more family-friendly/accessible option, the Nugget Falls Trail brings you around the other side of the Mendenhall Lake directly to a massive waterfall with views of the glacier from a bit farther away. (The
short, informational video in the Mendenhall Glacier Visitor Center is the cheapest tour of Juneau you’ll get.) Liquid Alaska offers canoe tours that go across the lake to bring you to the face of the glacier and across the top of the ice. Or, if you’re balling without a budget, you can charter a helicopter through Northstar, Coastal or Temsco Helicopters for a flightseeing tour that will land you on the glacier (tours cost $300 or more). If you’re looking for a more relaxing way than hiking to sightsee and get up close to a glacier, try a full day boat trip to Tracy Arm Fjord with Adventure Bound. For $175, this 10-hour tour is an exceptional value and unforgettable experience. Make sure to pack a cooler with snacks and beverages to enjoy while you cruise through a steep fjord, usually seeing whales, bears, eagles, harbor seals along the way, and culminating at one of the Sawyer Glaciers, which are often actively calving. Even if it’s cloudy or rainy, this trip is sure to be memorable and enjoyable — the glacier can look more blue when it’s overcast.
If you’re looking for a shorter tour, several other companies offer two- to three-hour whale watching or city tours during the summer cruise ship season (check out Juneau Tours & Whale Watch and Allen Marine for options). If you’re more of a plant lover than animal lover, check out the upside-down tree gardens at Glacier Gardens. They also offer tours up the mountain in small trams during the summer season. A good place to see fireweed is along Point Bridget Trail. The drive out the road to this trail also makes for great views of the looming Chilkat Mountains. Another top-notch Juneau experience is cabin camping. You can rent cabins online; however, weekends can generally get booked up to six months in advance so make sure to book far ahead of time. Most public cabins are in backcountry and require hiking your gear out. However, there are some private cabins that can be rented that are more accessible, such as those at the Shrine of St. Therese or on Airbnb. Nights at Eaglecrest Ski Resort’s newest cabin, Hilda Dam, during VISITORS’ GUIDE •
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