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If you’ve visited Pensacola before, it’s time to go back. If you’ve never been, it’s time to check out this Westernmost Florida city and sample the riches it has to offer.
Crowne Plaza Pensacola Grand
Applewood Bacon wrapped Warm Water Lobster Tail at Global Grill
Story and Photos by Melissa Wolcott Martino 16
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ou probably associate Pensacola with it’s large Naval Air Station, and may considerate it a “Navy town” — which it is — but it has become so much more with a reenergized downtown and new flourishing businesses. With it’s white sandy beaches and trendy restaurants, Pensacola has become an attractive vacation destination.
I flew in to Pensacola on Silver Airways which offers easy non-stop flights from Tampa and Orlando, and took a hotel courtesy car to the Crowne Plaza Pensacola Grand Hotel, where I was staying, and met up with some friends to begin our three day exploration of the city. Along with being elegant, the 1912 Crowne Plaza has the extra cool factor of being housed on the site of an old railroad depot for the Louisville and Nashville Railroad (L&N), which has been restored and is incorporated in the hotel lobby and lounges. Many wonderful antiques can be found in the public areas of the hotel. The guest rooms, however, are totally modern with comfortable beds and full amenities, such as 42-inch flat screen TVs, coffeemaker, refrigerator, morning newspaper, and high-speed wireless internet. The hotel is full service, with a restaurant, room service, lounge, heated swimming pool, fitness center, business center, meeting space, and one of my favorite features — a library with a large selection of books for the use of guests. We began our city tour with a visit to the Historic Pensacola Village, a walkable area with homes, a church, a cultural center and museums. The T.T. Wentworth Museum is fascinatingly eclectic, as was, apparently, T.T. Wentworth. The museum building is actually the early 1900’s City Hall. The contents are from the personal collection of Mr. Wentworth, and consist of a broad range of historical items ranging from Native American artifacts to some oddball items (á la Ripley’s Believe It Or Not — shrunken head, petrified cat, etc.) to an exhibit of Coca Cola items, and all manner of things in between. In 1983, Mr. Wentworth’s collection consisted of over 150,000 items. He claimed he “never threw nothin’ away.” I guess not.
Continued . . .
1871 Dorr House in Historic Pensacola Village
National Naval Aviation Museum
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The Crowne Plaza Pensacola Grand incorporates period antiques into it’s public areas Walking around the historic village takes you back through Pensacola’s interesting history, through the different eras. The city is the oldest European settlement in the USA. Some of the highlights are the 1805 Julee Cottage once owned by Julee Panton, a free woman of color. The 1805 Lavalle House is a French Creole home outfitted in Spanish Colonial. The 1832 Old Christ Church is beautifully preserved and still used for weddings and concerts. A relatively new museum in the village is The Voices of Pensacola, which is dedicated to preserving Pensacola’s history and cultural heritage through exhibits and as a gathering place for visitors. There is a research area and some special chairs set up with fascinating visual/audio recordings made by people sharing their Pensacola stories.
Crowne Plaza Pensacola Grand guest room.
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Fort Pickens cannons on display A real sense of Pensacola’s military history is at the ruins of Fort Pickens, completed in 1834 and used up until 1947 when it was finally decommissioned. Built to fortify the port after the war of 1812, it was used in the MexicanAmerican War (1847) and again in the Civil War (1861) occupied by the Union army. During the Indian Wars (1887), Geronimo, the famous Apache chief, was imprisoned there. The Harbor Defenses of Pensacola were declared surplus in 1947 and they were ordered deactivated. The fort is now part of the National Park Service. One evening we caught “Smokey Joe’s Cafe,” a live production at the historic Saenger Theater — a 1925 Spanish Baroque gem which has had a $15 million renovation. It began it’s life as a Vaudeville theater, and then a movie house. It was saved from the wrecking ball in the 70s, and the magnificent structure is now home to opera, ballet, movies, as well as Broadway shows.
Continued . . . Fort Pickens
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National Naval Aviation Museum Since Pensacola is a big Navy town, what better location for the world’s largest Naval Aviation Museum? This is a really terrific museum with excellent exhibits of over 150 aircraft representing not only the Navy, but the Marines and Coast Guard as well. Four Blue Angel A-4 Skyhawks are suspended from the atrium ceiling in an impressive display, and you can walk around on the flight deck of a replica of the USS Cabot CVL-28 light carrier. Climb up the steps of the VH-3 Marine One helicopter that flew President Nixon on short range flights during the 70s. Oh and there he is, President Nixon, sitting inside. Photo op! There are many hands-on exhibits, movies, and flight simulators for kids and adults alike to enjoy. On a bluff located on the Pensacola Naval Air Station is the 1859 light house which has seen it’s share of history. It was controlled by the Confederate forces during the Civil War, and the tower received some artillery damage. It is still active today, and is open for tours. Some say it’s haunted (including the Travel Channel and SciFi’s “Ghost Hunters”,) which leads to making it a popular Ghost Tour destination. So of course we went, and yes, it’s a bit creepy at night. We decided to take a road trip from Pensacola along beautiful 30A to Seaside (less than a 2-hour drive) with a stop at Grayton Beach, and plans for stand up paddling at YOLO Board near Destin, but
Blue Angel A-4 Skyhawks
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the weather had different ideas. If you find yourself near Destin, do head over to YOLO board for an enjoyable afternoon. I’ve done it before there, and it’s a fun experience. If you’re not aware, Seaside is the town that was conceived as the perfect beach community back in the late 70s, with wood-framed cottages and white picket fences (no two alike next to each other, please) and a town center, from which several other USA towns have been modeled after. You can see Seaside if you rent the movie The Truman Show, starring Jim Carrey, as the town is also a star of the show. I have stayed in a rented cottage there in the past, and it really is the perfect little town. We had lunch at one of the most popular spots in the area, Bud & Alley’s on the beach. It never disappoints.
Robert Overton, Jr., Exec Director Wentworth Museum T.T. Wentworth Museum
Wentworth historical collection
We certainly enjoyed some great dining on this trip, starting with breakfast at the 1912 Restaurant at the Crowne Plaza - generous portions of good food to get the day going. We had some tasty and educational fun at So Gourmet & Kitchenry, a gourmet shop with a cooking classes. The shop features a whole raft of different olive oils that you can sample before buying in addition to a salad bar and other specialties. Culinary Chef Sue Shattuck showed us how to make Grouper Florentine, and we all enjoyed the results. Not particularly known for stellar cooking skills, I retained a few things which I have since incorporated in my kitchen: Use butter flavored olive oil instead of butter in cooking, you’ll never miss it. Sea salt is less processed and retains the nutrients (pink Himalayan, medium gray, and French gray.) Fresh raw fish should break when you bend it, not bend. The eyes should be clear not milky, and it should smell like the ocean, not fish. Cooking lesson over.
Continued . . .
Voices of Pensacola Museum preserves the city’s history and cultural heritage
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Jackson’s Restaurant’s attractive decor.
Blackened Swordfish with Cheese Grits and Tasso Gravy at Jackson’s Before attending the show at the Saenger, we stopped in for dinner at the Global Grill, a short walk from the theater. This trendy place gets rave reviews, and so it should. The menu is enticing, the atmosphere is simple yet artsy, and the tapas style food is fabulous. Since we were a genial group, we ordered a bunch of plates and shared such delicacies as: the Applewood Bacon wrapped Warm Water Lobster Tail with smoked Gouda Cheese Sauce, and roasted Red Pepper Coulis, topped with aged Balsamic Reduction; the Blackened Swordfish with Cheese Grits and Tasso Gravy; and the savory Shrimp Cheesecake, with house Bacon, Spinach, smoked Gouda served with red and yellow Pepper Coulis. Another terrific meal was at the nearby upscale Jackson’s Steakhouse located across from the Plaza Ferdinand VII. Indeed, the restaurant is designed to bring the feeling of the park inside. Under the helm of Chef Irv Miller, Jackson’s is one of the “Fresh From Florida” Restaurants (restaurants that feature fresh ingredients from Florida, including produce grown by Florida farmers and seafood caught in Florida
Jackson’s award-winning Executive Chef Irv Miller.
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So Gourmet & Kitchenry Olive Oils
So Gourmet Cooking Class
So Gourmet Tasting
waters.) Chef Miller recently released a cookbook, “Panhandle to Pan: 150 Recipes and Stories of Florida’s New Redneck Riviera” which includes some of his favorite Southern influenced recipes and a little humour. I ordered the Yellowedge Gulf Grouper Romesco with Salsa Verde, Sofrito and Spanish Rice Cakes, which was sublime. It turns out lunch and blues go together quite nicely, and can be experienced at the Five Sisters Blues Cafe, where we had some good old Southern comfort food, while listening to some piped in old favorites. Our final group dinner was at the very popular Fish House with dockside dining on Pensacola Bay. As you would imagine, they feature fresh seafood, but also serve landlubber fare as well. They are particularly wellknown for their Grits á Ya Ya — spiced Gulf Jumbo Shrimp over spinach, portobello mushrooms, applewoodsmoked bacon, garlic, shallots and cream over a bed of smoked Gouda cheese grits. á Yum Yum! Pensacola has a lot of fun events during the year, so please visit the visitpensacola.com website for what’s happening, and when.
If You Go:
Visit Pensacola - visitpensacola.com Silver Airways - silverairways.com Crowne Plaza Pensacola Grand - pensacolagrandhotel.com/ Historic Pensacola Village - historicpensacola.org/ Saenger Theatre - pensacolasaenger.com National Naval Aviation Museum - navalaviationmuseum.org/ Pensacola Lighthouse & Museum - pensacolalighthouse.org Fort Pickens - nps.gov/guis/planyourvisit/fort-pickens.htm
YOLO Board - yoloboard.com/ Seaside - seasidefl.com Bud & Alley’s Restaurant - budandalleys.com So Gourmet & Kitchenry - sogourmetpensacola.com/ Global Grill - globalgrillpensacola.com Jackson’s Steakhouse - jacksonsrestaurant.com/ Five Sisters Blues Cafe - fivesistersbluescafe.com/ Fish House - fishhousepensacola.com
Blackened Swordfish with Cheese Grits and Tasso Gravy from Global Grill.
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“Live Life to Discover” Story and photos by Melissa and Al Martino
“Live Life to Discover” is the Renaissance Hotel group’s slogan, which seems fitting, as every hotel in the group is different. You can be pleasantly surprised by booking all Renaissance as you travel and not having any déjà vu moments. We had the occasion to visit the beautifully renovated (to the tune of $50M and five years) Renaissance SeaWorld Resort when in Orlando, and although it takes it’s theme from SeaWorld (which is directly across the road) it is not at all “theme-parky.” This Renaissance property is sophisticated urban chic. The only real nod to SeaWorld is a large orca whale mural (with no text on it), and some lovely waterfall features. That, and an aquarium theme by the center bar. Renaissance creates a vibe to fit in with whatever locale they are in. The Renaissance SeaWorld resort has 781 guestrooms and 65 suites, which surround a huge atrium that is sunny by day, and romantically lit by night. A lot of the hotel’s action takes place in the atrium, with the Mist Sushi & Spirits Bar taking center stage. Comfortable conversational chairs dot the floor for chatting or reading, and sections can be set aside for parties and events. This resort is an event planners dream as there are so many variables both outside and inside for large and small groups. The Renaissance has an app available to meeting planners to be in touch with every department at the hotel at the touch of a finger.
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Our very spacious king junior suite was plush and tastefully decorated with sofas and chairs in warm tones, and a most comfortable bed. A large flat screen TV dominated one wall, and was tuned to gorgeous underwater sea life film accompanied by soothing music when we arrived. There was even a work desk, which, on this trip, did not tempt us at all. Relaxation was our theme. Although Orlando has so many restaurants to choose from, there is no need to travel past the resort’s front door, as they have many varied restaurants right on property. From the Palms Bar & Grill by the pool, to the Tradewinds in the atrium (open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner) to the Boardwalk, which a trendy sports bar. Food is locally sourced, even most of the fish is from Florida. All the restaurants offer gluten free menus for those that desire it. Best of all is the R Kitchen, a private dining experience set up in advance for smaller groups, that is utterly delightful. We had the privilege of enjoying this concierge-level experience on our trip. Sous Chef Michael Cutter created a special dinner for us in the intimate counter-style seating facing his gleaming stainless steel open kitchen. He pulled out all the stops with preparing our favorite foods all while our favorite music was piped in. Pampered? You betcha! The R Kitchen is unique to the Renaissance SeaWorld property, and is also used for interactive cooking classes. Renaissance SeaWorld has a large property, beautifully landscaped with walkways through lush vegetation. You won’t be able to get the kids away from The R-Aqua Zone water park with so many fun water games.
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If you’ve had an exhausting day and are “parked out”, head over to the Lotus Spa to relax and unwind. They have 8 treatment rooms and all the services you would expect of the Renaissance brand. Most resorts are charging a resort fee these days to cover your amenity expenses, but the Renaissance SeaWorld’s fee also includes travel to all the major theme parks, not just SeaWorld. The International Drive Trolley (I-Ride Trolley) also comes by the hotel and can take you from one end of International Drive to the other for a small fee. This lovely resort with everything you could want or need also comes with a super friendly and accommodating staff. Your destination doesn’t have to be SeaWorld to stay in this resort. It’s a Renaissance Resort. That’s all it needs to be.
The Renaissance SeaWorld is located at 6677 Sea Harbor Drive, Orlando, FL 32821. For more information, call 407-351-5555, or visit www.marriott.com/hotels.mi
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photo courtesy of San Antonio CVB
San Antonio San San Antonio tonio San Antonio Heroic History, Engaging Present n Antonio San A San Antonio San tonio San Antonio n Antonio San A io San Antonio S Antonio San Ant San Antonio San The Alamo is especially stirring at night
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n Antonio San An o ISan Antonio Sa Antonio San Antnio n Antonio San An o San Antonio Sa Antonio San Anton San Antonio San tonio San>$ Antonio n Antonio San An by Melissa Wolcott Martino and Al Martino
n 1836, after a 13-day siege at their Mission, and when all hope was gone, over 200 brave Texans and volunteers decided they’d rather die fighting to protect Texas than surrender to Santa Anna’s Mexican army of about 1,500. This, of course, was the tragic fate of the Alamo Mission in San Antonio. A month later, with the battle cry, “Remember the Alamo,” the Mexican army was defeated at the Battle of San Jacinto, winning independence for Texas. The Alamo’s pivotal battle in the Texas revolution spawned many books and movies glorifying the heroic efforts of Davy Crockett, James Bowie, William B. Travis and the struggle for freedom against all odds. One hundred and seventy five years later, the Alamo is still a revered shrine, and the #1 most visited place in Texas.
The Alamo may be crowded with visitors, but they seem to enter the shrine with a sense of reverence and respect for its extraordinary history. I felt it most deeply at night when few people were around. Built in 1724, the Alamo was miles from the next mission—and that’s about all the civilization there was at the time. Now, it is in the heart of town, as are a lot of San Antonio’s attractions, making them either walkable to each other, or easily accessed by a river taxi. And there certainly are a lot of very interesting and varied attractions to be seen in San Antonio.
The Alamo in the 1830s
Monument for the Alamo fallen.
Photos by Melissa Wolcott Martino unless otherwise credited
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photo courtesy of San Antonio CVB
San Fernando Cathedral, where Crockett, Travis and Bowie are interred www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
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exas’ second most visited place is also in San Antonio, and it is their magnificent River Walk. I had heard of River Walk, but had no idea what it was actually like. I certainly didn’t picture the beautiful 2-mile winding San Antonio River with a lot of vegetation and gorgeous old Montezuma Cypress trees growing along the edge with their canopies meeting over the middle of the river. Charming restaurants, musicians and fun bars make the river come alive at night. During the day visitors can peruse galleries, shops and restaurants for a wholly different experience. Walking is very enjoyable, but if you prefer, you can take a river taxi, provided by Rio San Antonio. With different ticket options you can get on and off at your leisure all day long, or you can opt for the narrated river tour which points out all the history and hot spots along the way. There is even a romantic evening dinner cruise available. We chose the 40-minute afternoon narrated tour, which was very informatively handled by our pilot Bob Pollard. We learned that River Walk was originally formed in 1924 as a flood control. It is only 3 1/2 feet deep, so if anyone imbibes too much at any of the lively bars and falls in, they most likely won’t drown! There are even some fish in the river, and we saw many ducks and birds along the way. We floated past some historical landmarks and structures such as: the 1860 Guenther House; the Hilton Palacio de Rio Hotel (which was built with pre-fab and furnished room modules for the 1968 San Antonio World’s Fair); La Villita (a 1700’s village which now houses shops and boutiques); and the 1883 Pearl Brewing Company which began life as a brewery and is now a 22-acre complex housing retail, restaurants, and the Culinary Institute of America (featuring Latin cuisine). Bob also pointed out Cafe Ole, which serves the largest margaritas on the river — a whopping 60 ounces! Every January as a regular maintenance, the walled part of the river is drained. During this “dry” spell, San Antonians make a party out of it with a 10-day Mud Festival. Rio San Antonio has a separate route that will take people to several different museums located along the river. The river will soon to be extended to become 13 miles long, and will provide visitors the ability to see even more of the city’s offerings.
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River Walk sparkles at night.
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San Antonio San tonio San Antonio n Antonio San An R San Antonio San tonio San Antonio n Antonio San A io San Antonio S Antonio San Ant San Antonio San The Spanish Governor’s Palace
iver Walk is below street level, and there are a lot of step-up (and elevator) points that take you up to the street to do more sightseeing and shopping. We tend to zero in on the historical places of interest, so we walked to the 1722 Spanish Governor’s Palace on Military Plaza. Originally the home of the Captain of the Presidio, the property expanded through the years with additions and had a variety of uses. It was a home until the late 1860s, when it when through a gamut of businesses — pawn shop, produce store, saloon, even a tire shop. In 1915, preservationists began the effort to purchase and restore it for future generations to get an interpretation of the occupant’s home life during the building’s 260 years. Nearby is the fascinating 129-year-old Buckhorn Saloon/Texas Ranger Museum with the history of the wild west in all it’s glory and infamy. The saloon is reputedly where Teddy Roosevelt recruited Rough Riders, and Pancho Villa planned the Mexican Revolution. Many of the original furnishings can still be found there, including the bar which was hand-crafted of marble and cherry wood. They serve lunch and locally brewed beers. The Buckhorn museum is a taxidermists dream, with over 520 species of wildlife from all over the world (plus some oddities). We found the Texas Rangers exhibit to be the most interesting, with artifacts including revolvers, automatic handguns, sawed off shotguns, photos and much more memorabilia. One room houses the Bonnie & Clyde exhibit with photos, artifacts, and their bullet-riddled ‘34 Ford. There is even an indoor walk-through western town with a saloon, jail, blacksmith shop and telegraph office. While Teddy was apparently recruiting Rough Riders at the Buckhorn, he was staying at the Menger Hotel, which is still in operation today. Built in 1859 (only 23 years after the fall of the Alamo), it is the oldest hotel in the state, and a stone’s throw from the Alamo. It has never closed, and has never been anything but a fine hotel. In addition to Teddy, the hotel guest book boasts such luminaries as Babe Ruth, Mae West, Robert E. Lee, Ulysses S. Grant, and Sarah Bernhardt, to name a few. Hmmm, the Menger also claims that Teddy recruited Rough Riders in their bar. Apparently he was either heavily into drinking or recruiting.
The Buckhorn Saloon
Bonnie and Clyde’s car in the Texas Ranger Museum
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n Antonio San An San Antonio Sa ntonio San Antnio W n Antonio San An San Antonio Sa Antonio San Anton San Antonio San tonio San Antonio n Antonio San An The Alamo Trolley
alking and the river taxi are ways to sightsee, bbbbut there is also the Alamo Trolley (located right next to—you guessed it—The Alamo.) Hop on hop off all day for one price, and get the 2nd day free. The trolley stops at: Hemisphere Park, site of the 1968 World’s Fair; The Institute of Texan Cultures, with 27 ethnic groups that settled in the state; Mission San Jose, a 1720 completely restored mission—one of the finest in the USA; The 1716 Mission Concepcion (unrestored); Market Square, where you will find arts, crafts, food, and a Latino museum; The 1731 beautiful San Fernando Cathedral, one of the oldest Catholic churches in the southwest, and where the three Alamo heroes—Crockett, Travis and Bowie—are interred; The Spanish Governor’s Palace; La Villita; River Walk; The IMAX RiverCenter Theatre where you can see current movies plus relive the Battle of the Alamo on a six-story screen; and finally the Alamo Visitor Center where the tour begins and ends. A relatively new icon for San Antonio is the large red sculpture downtown entitled “Torch Of Friendship”, a gift from Mexico bestowed eight years ago.
“Torch Of Freedom”
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Mission San Jose
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A San Antonio San tonio San Antonio n Antonio San An San Antonio San tonio San Antonio n Antonio San A io San Antonio S Antonio San Ant San Antonio San fter full days of walking and sightseeing it is so comforting to return to a hotel that feels like home, and we certainly lucked out with our choice of the luxurious 5-year-old Hotel Contessa. It is perfectly situated on River Walk, right in front of “Marriage Island” (named for the majestic Montezuma Cypress’ tree roots that form the tiny island’s heart shape). About one hundred marriages are performed there yearly. When you turn left out of the hotel’s back (River Walk) door, you enjoy the bustle of the restaurants and shops. When you turn right, you walk along the quiet side of the river — best of both worlds. Inside, an open atrium leads you up 12 stories in this 265-suite hotel with a modern Mediterranean theme. Guest suites are warmly decorated to reflect the San Antonio of today, and the bedding is extremely comfortable. Our sunny bedroom overlooked the river and the cypress trees. The living room area was well appointed with a sofa and several chairs. Thirty-seven inch flat LCD TVs were located in the living room and the bedroom. Wireless internet access and a very attractive desk set-up in the bedroom made getting some computer work done much more pleasant. A spa, outdoor heated pool, and fitness center are located on the top of the hotel, with panoramic views of the city. The Hotel Contessa also happens to have one of the best restaurants on River Walk with Las Ramblas, helmed by popular Executive Chef Brian West, who actually used to be a stand-up comic! I don’t know about his humor, be there’s nothing funny about his cooking. He specializes in tasty Spanish/Mediterranean cuisine and tapas. In Las Ramblas, you can dine inside or out right on the river for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The hotel’s open airy lobby also houses the Cork Bar, with specialty mojitos, martinis, and margaritas. For all you pet lovers who hate to leave your best friend at home, the Hotel Contessa is pet friendly! For an extra daily fee, you can bring Fido or Fifi along.
Hotel Contessa Lobby
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River Center
Festivals in San Antonio.
In our travels we find some destinations only really require a onetime visit. San Antonio is not one of them. We feel we only scratched the surface on our 3-night visit, and look forward to another soon. What other bars did Teddy Roosevelt frequent??
If You Go ...
photo courtesy of Hotel Contessa.
an Antonio has a lot of fun festivals going on all year long, but since this is the 175th anniversary year of the Alamo, they are doing it up big. Fiesta San Antonio is an 11-day celebration taking place April 7-17, which includes carnivals, sports, fireworks, entertainment, ethnic food, art exhibits and parades along River Walk and the streets. Another event takes place every first Saturday of the month with living history demonstrations from 10 a.m. – 4 p.m., including period cooking, cornhusk doll-making and weapon displays. Visit the San Antonio CVB website for all the events taking place throughout the year.
Chef Brian West and Las Ramblas Restaurant
San Antonio CVB - www.visitsanantonio.com The Alamo - www.thealamo.org Alamo Trolley - www.thealamotrolley.com The Buckhorn Saloon/Texas Ranger Museum - www.buckhornmuseum.com Hotel Contessa www.thehotelcontessa.com Hotel Menger - www.mengerhotel.com/ IMAX RiverCenter Theater www.imax-sa.com La Villita - www.lavillita.com Rio San Antonio www.riosanantonio.com River Walk www.thesanantonioriverwalk.com San Fernando Cathedral www.sfcathedral.org Spanish Governor’s Palace www.sanantonio.gov
For a lot more of our photos of San Antonio, please visit ampubs.smugmug.com/ACCENT-ON-TAMPA-BAY-MAGAZINE and follow categories to San Antonio
photo courtesy of San Antonio CVB
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Windmills, Butterflies and a Castle California’s Central Coast Yields Unexpected Treasures
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here are we? I look out our hotel window and see a windmill and Danish architecture. But rather than being in Denmark, we are a mere 132 miles north of Los Angeles CA, in the very charming town of Solvang, located in the magnificent Santa Ynez Valley. This is one of the unsung treasures we found on our brief 2 night excursion north of Los Angeles. The others are the lovely cliffs and butterflies of Pismo Beach, and the more well-known Hearst Castle in San Simeon. The drive itself north along Hwy 1 is gorgeous and must be experienced.
Story and photos by Melissa Wolcott Martino and Al Martino www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
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he beautiful town of Solvang was settled in the early 1900s by a Danish group, and has kept it’s allure for over 100 years with it’s rolling hills, four windmills, Danish architecture, cuisine and hospitality. We lodged in the quaint King Frederik Inn right in the heart of town and wandered the streets enjoying all things Danish — from shopping to dining and even to listening to the Danish language, as it is still spoken by some. The King Frederik Inn has an Old World charm, and it is also comfortable with modern amenities. They offer great packages for travelers, such as a Golf package, a Summer Theater package, and a Wine Country package with a tour of award-winning wineries. We dined across the street from the inn at the Solvang Brewing Company, and enjoyed a Danish staple, Smorrebrod — an open-faced sandwich with rye bread and Frikadeller sausage, along with some Danish wedding soup. To acquaint ourselves with the town’s past, we visited the Elverhoj Museum, which is a lovely Scandanavian-style home turned into a museum of art and history. It is actually one of the few museums outside of Denmark devoted to the Danish culture. Of course, though the Danish group founded the town, the Chumash Indians were here way before they and the early Spanish settlers were. There is a welcome push going on to preserve the Chumash heritage and language as there is still a population of the Native Americans in the area. The nearby Chumash Casino provides income and jobs for many of them. A place of interest to us was seeing the old 1804 Santa Ines Mission. The church still has the original walls, floor tiles, and hand-painted murals by Indian artisans, and is one of the few remaining California missions that has been in continuous use since 1817. We also delighted in visiting the nearby Quicksilver Miniature Horse Ranch with their adorable 34-inch (and under) horses. It was hard not to take one of them home with us. But you can, as Quicksilver is a breeding facility. Our visit to Solvang was much too short, as there is much more to see and do there, such as the Hans Christian Andersen Museum (and yes, there is a halfsized statue of the famous Copenhagen “Little Mermaid” from Anderson’s fairytale in town), horseback riding, multiple vineyards and wine tasting rooms, an Ostrich farm, cycling or hiking into the Los Padres National Forest, fishing and golf.
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Smorrebrod at the Solvang Brewing Company
King Fredrik Inn
On our next trip to Solvang we hope to cover some of these other experiences, and will try to time our visit to one of the many fun festivals they hold during the year. Every February the Greyhound Fest takes place, where folks and their greyhounds come from all over to Solvang to gather and bond over their favorite breed. Coming up in September, 2013 is the 77th Annual Solvang Danish Days where they really go all out DANISH! I have a feeling Christmas time is also amazing in Solvang. The Solvang Visitors Bureau has some of the friendliest folks you will ever meet, and are extremely helpful in planning a visit to their fair town.
If You Go:
Solvang Visitors: www.solvangusa.com/ Solvang Brewing Company: www.solvangbrewingcompany.com/ King Frederik Inn: www.kingfrederikinn.com/ Elverhoj Museum of History & Art: www.elverhoj.org/ Chumash Casino: www.chumashcasino.com/ Santa Ines Mission: www.missionsantaines.org/ Quicksilver Miniature Horse Ranch: www.qsminis.com/
Elverhoj Museum
Santa Ines Mission
Melissa with a Miniature Horse from the Quicksilver Miniture Horse Ranch.
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Pismo Beach S
ome of the most spectacular CA coast vistas can be found at Pismo Beach. The awesome coastal cliffs are enjoyed right from your hotel room at the Best Western Shore Cliff Lodge, which is where we stayed during our trek along the coast. The lodge’s lobby has floor-to-ceiling windows to best feature the incredible view, as do the guestrooms. An attractive white picket fence along the cliff keeps you from venturing too close to the edge (with a 90 foot drop). We took a stroll out to the hotel’s gazebo on the cliff and watched a beautiful sunset. If you time it right (winter), it’s the ideal spot for whale watching, as Pismo Beach is one of the premier places for the activity. The spacious guestrooms are welcoming, with muted colors and very comfortable bedding. Louvered sliding glass doors take you to your balcony where you can sit and enjoy the view. The lodge’s heated pool and spa feel good after a day of sightseeing, and a complimentary breakfast adds to the good value of your stay.
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Of course CA’s Central Coast is famous for wineries, so you won’t be surprised to find wine tastings and tours galore in the area. One of the popular tours is the Grapeline Wine Country Shuttle which has a lot of packages to choose from with varied itineraries. What you may be surprised at is Pismo Beach’s spectacular Monarch Butterfly Grove. Every year, from late October to February, thousands of Monarchs flock to Pismo Beach to get away from the freezing cold further north. The butterflies form clusters, hanging one wing down over the one below it to form a shelter from the elements. Scientists are baffled by why the butterflies appear at the same site every year, even though they only live for 6 months, and once they leave in March, that group never returns. It is one of the biggest clusters in the country, and the event attracts folks from all over.
If You Go:
Pismo Beach: www.classiccalifornia.com/ Shore Cliff Lodge: www.shorecliff.com Pismo Beach Monarch Butterfly Grove: www.monarchbutterfly.org/ Grapeline Wine Country Shuttle: www.gogrape.com/
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Hearst Castle The gorgeous Neptune Pool
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OK, so there aren’t any seals at Hearst Castle, but there are a lot of them along the Hwy 1 coast. www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
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earst Castle in San Simeon is a must visit if you’re traveling along California’s Central Coast. It’s fame precedes it with the fairytale romance of newspaper tycoon, William Randolf Hearst, and movie star, Marion Davies, but the structure and grounds are something to behold. WRH called it his “ranch”, but we would (and do) call it a castle. Hearst’s father bought the land in 1865, and by the time WRH inherited it, it had grown to 250,000 acres and 14 miles of coastline. Designed by architect Julia Mogan, the Boroque style castle was built and worked on from 1919 to 1947. A packrat with expensive taste, WRH was an unstoppable collector, and furnished his home with fabulous treasures from European castles and estates. He managed to fill his 90,000 square foot “ranch” of 56 bedrooms, 61 bathrooms, and 19 sitting rooms. Also part of the estate are indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, a movie theater, and an airfield. The huge Neptune pool is especially amazing with a Roman Temple overlooking it. WRH’s guest list was a who’s who of the day, with Hollywood and political royalty gracing it’s rooms, and his lover, Ms. Davies, the charming hostess. The property is much smaller today, some acreage having been sold off during the years, however, standing at the castle, the property left is still as far as the eye can see. Different tours are available, and one that sounds particularly interesting is the evening tour, where visitors experience the castle as one of Hearsts’ guests would have. Docents in period dress propel visitors back to the 30s.
If You Go: Hearst Castle: www.hearstcastle.com
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TRAVELOGUE
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Southampton Inn A Classic Inn on Long Island
Story and photos by Melissa Wolcott Martino
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When I was a child, every year my family would summer in the Hamptons on Long Island, NY. We stayed at the same beautiful beachfront property. Before you imagine the tony mansions you see on the “Lives of the Rich and Famous” it wasn’t quite like that. Actually, it was nothing like that. It was the 1950s and my family of four pitched a tent on the beach at Hither Hills State Park on Montauk Point, and would shop or take in an occasional movie in the Hamptons. They were the best of times. What made it even more enjoyable was that we went camping with our same dear friends every year. They too, we’re a family of four, same ages. Fast forward 60 years. Although both sets of our parents are gone now, my fellow camper, Lea Seligman, is still my best friend. We have managed to maintain this friendship even though we have been separated by many years and many miles. We decided it was time to take a “nostalgic” trip back to the Hamptons that we loved so much as children. We left our husbands and families home and searched for the ideal place to stay. The gracious South Hampton Inn turned out to be the perfect choice. Comfortable and centrally located, it was easy to get around and explore the east end of Long Island.
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The Southampton Inn is over 40 years old, but has been refurbished to include modern amenities while retaining a cozy, homey feel. Current owner Dede Gotthelf Moan has owned it for 16 years and is very hands-on. The Inn has a beautifully manicured spacious lawn, with lots of flowering plants and a tall privacy hedge around the property — perfect for relaxing and reading a book in the Adirondack chairs that dot the property. The lobby is also a nice place to relax or chat up friends in comfy chairs by the fireplace.
The Inn’s spacious lawn. You never know who’s going to hop by while relaxing in the yard.
The Inn is the largest one in South Hampton with 90 individually designed guestrooms. Our double queen guestroom had a casual décor with very comfortable Tempur-Pedic mattresses and down comforters, and overlooked the pool and nearby tennis court. Although we left them at home, we found we could have also brought our pets along, since the Inn has 18 pet-friendly guestrooms. We were also glad to discover complimentary Wi-Fi was available throughout the inn.
Melissa and Lea trek back to childhood memories.
Welcoming Adirondack chairs are readily available. www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
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The Southampton Inn
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The Southampton Inn’s restaurant, Café OSO, uses locally sourced food, with fresh picked vegetables and herbs coming from their own garden, and is highly rated in the area. We enjoyed breakfast at the Inn before we headed out to explore. The Inn is located on a quiet street, and just a short walk takes you to the Southampton Village of many wonderful little shops, galleries and restaurants. One evening we dined at 75 Main, a chic spot with soft lighting and an elegant menu. We heard it’s also a favorite stop for visiting celebrities. www.75main.com When staying at the Southapton Inn, guests can leave their cars behind and avail themselves of the many bicycles the Inn has for rent. They also have a shuttle that will take guests to Cooper Beach, only a mile away. Lea and I set out to revisit our childhood haunts (what we could remember of them.) We were pleasantly surprised to see that Hither Hills State Park is very much like it was 60 years ago, only perhaps more RVs than tents now. The beautiful 200 year-old Montauk Point Lighthouse still guides ships as it did in George Washington’s day — with a bit of modernization. Although the Hamptons are thought of as a summer retreat, there are a lot of things happening throughout the year. The 4th of July is, of course, the biggest weekend, but Halloween is fun, and Christmas time is gorgeous. Carolers stroll the streets, and there is a candlelight tour of beautiful homes. With all the cedar shake houses, it is very reminiscent of a Norman Rockwell painting in the winter. Saturday nights, from October to May is the popular “Rising Star” Piano Concert Series which takes place in the Southampton Cultural Center. There are plenty of events taking place every weekend, which you can check out at the Hamptons website.
The Inn’s lobby is cozy and relaxing. 64
Bikes are available for rent at the Inn. www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
The Inn’s inviting heated pool.
Conversation pit by the bar.
Natural settings on the Inn’s property.
Tasty breakfast at Cafe OSO.
Cafe OSO dining area.
Guestroom with Comfortable double queen Tempur-Pedic beds and new bath fixtures. www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
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The Southampton Inn
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Cruising around the Hamptons, along the beaches, and making new discoveries was a wonderful experience which Lea and I hope to duplicate before too many more years go by. Next time we’ll bring our families and stay again at the Southampton Inn (maybe even bring our pets!) The Southampton Inn is located at 91 Hill St, Southampton, NY 11968. For more information please call (631) 283-6500, or visit www.southamptoninn.com/ For more information on the Hamptons, www.hamptons.com/
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The chic 75 Main Restaurant.
75 Main’s Filt Mignon with potato gratin.
Pick your own punpkins and find your way through the corn maze at Hank’s Visit the oldest house in NY, the 1648 Halsey House in Southampton. Pumpkintown on Montauk Hwy. 66
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One of the most complete windmills on L.I., the 1806 Hook Windmill is located in East Hampton.
Tour the 1843 Rogers Mansion in Southampton.
Interesting architecture on the 1879 Saint Andrew’s Dune Church in Southampton.
You CAN go home again! The Hither Hills State Park on Montauk Point we enjoyed in 1952, and now again in 2014.
Surfcasting by the Montauk Point Lighthouse.
The old Lighthouse at Montauk Point still guiding ships after 200 years.
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South Wa Charming, Diverse Beach Communities along Hwy 30A Story and Photos by Melissa Wolcott Martino & Al Martino 62
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ou’re planning a serious vacation or a quick little getaway at the beach. What do you usually look for — or what is your mood now? Glamour? Sophistication? State-of-the-art? Funky? Homey? Big complex? Tiny out-of-the-way place? South Walton County, a 20-mile scenic stretch along Hwy 30A on Florida’s Emerald Coast, has your ideal choice somewhere within it’s many very different beach communities. Forty percent of the land is state forest preserve, so there’s a lot of beautiful driving along the coast.
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Water Color Resort, Santa Rosa Beach www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
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Sandestin Grand pool
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Sandestin Grand lobby www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
South Walton
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ur most recent visit was to a “big complex” — the Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort in Destin. We have visited South Walton (SoWal) several times in the past, as it is one of our go-to vacay spots. We usually mix it up with where we stay since we love the variety the area affords us. Our last visit before this was a “homey” house rental in Seaside. Before that, it was a “funky” B&B in Grayton Beach. Every experience was different, memorable and enjoyable.
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he Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort is a large complex that stretches from the Choctawhatchee Bay to the Gulf, with over 1,300 guest rooms, suites, condominiums, villas, and townhomes. It is a four-season golf destination with four gorgeous courses for every level of play. Although we don’t play golf, we did hear about how well respected the courses are from golf pros. The Sandestin has more than seven miles of waterfront, 15 tennis courts, 19 swimming pools, and a 113-slip marina — not to mention a spa and salon with a full array of services. Whew! We chose to stay at the lushly landscaped Grand Sandestin on the bay, which features studios, one-, two-, and three-bedroom guest rooms. Our king guest room was decorated with calming earthtones and a very comfy bed. It overlooked pine trees and the bay beyond, affording us stunning sunsets every night. Walkable from—and part of—the resort is a very charming village, Baytowne Wharf, reminiscent of Old Florida, with accommodations, eateries, shops, nightlife, and activities for the whole family. There’s a carousel for the kiddies, and for the more adventurous folks, a zip line, ropes course and a bungie jump. At the nearby Baytowne Marina, people can rent canoes, kayaks, waverunners—you name it. For even more shopping, Grand Boulevard has a lot of upscale shops and restaurants, and the resort has a tram that takes guests back and forth. And even more shopping can be found at the nearby Silver Sands Premium Outlets, with over 100 name brand stores, making it one of the largest outlets in the country.
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View from Sandestin property
Walkway to Baytowne Wharf
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South Walton
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e timed our SoWal visit to coincide with the 4th Annual 30A Songwriter’s Festival, a popular event held simultaneously in several of the SoWal communities. More than 125 songwriters and performers, both well-known and not-yet known descend upon SoWal from all over the country to try out their tunes and entertain the crowds over 3 days of non-stop performances in venues large and small. Music runs the gamut from folk to country to rock and blues, and all performers must be invited to be part of the event. This is a great example of community spirit, and everyone has a fabulous time. The people and sponsors involved with the event make it so with a very smooth operation. Complimentary shuttles carry folks up and down the highway to the various venues. Artists are in full swing as well, with posters, wall art, and lighting, so the event is a visual as well as auditory feast. Some of the more well-known performers that were on the main outdoor stage at the Gulf Place Amphitheater in Santa Rosa Beach were Lucinda Williams, Mary Chapin Carpenter and Susanne Vega. We caught Mary’s show, and she really had the crowd going with her hits “I Feel Lucky Tonight” and “Down at the Twist and Shout.”
Duke Bardwell
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Mary Chapin Carpenter
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t Pandora’s in Grayton Beach, we enjoyed an energetic set by Jessica Cayne, a former contestant on The Voice. When she was eliminated from the TV show, Christina Aguilera said to her “Don’t give up, pretty girl,” so she went back home and wrote a song about it, which she performed at Pandora’s. Also in town and featured in a documentary “Duke and the King” that was shown at the festival, was Duke Bardwell, Elvis Presley’s bass player in the 70s. He has an interesting story to tell about his relationship with Elvis. Was EP jealous of Duke and is that why he was fired and erased from EP’s history?? Duke and his group, Old Bull Young Bulls, played at Stinky’s Fish Camp in Santa Rosa Beach. Don’t let the restaurant’s name put you off, Stinky’s is one of the most popular seafood spots along 30A.
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Jessica Cayne
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South Walton
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ost of our dining experiences this time around were determined by the musical acts performing at the restaurant or a nearby venue. No matter, just about everywhere you dine has wonderful foodstuffs. From down home Southern cooking to elegant upscale dining, it’s all good. Although there are a few here and there, you won’t find a whole lot of chain restaurants, which is always a welcome find for us. Seaside’s popular Bud & Alley’s (named for a dog and cat) is a lively, friendly, beach side place known for it’s tasty dishes with ingredients from local sources. We enjoyed Poached Beet Salads with kale, red onion, goat cheese, orange vinaigrette, and honey spiced walnuts. B&A’s Executive Chef David Bishop was recently featured on Emeril’s Florida TV show cooking Poached Beet Salad up a shrimp dish. The eclectic Red Bar in Santa Rosa Beach is an extremely popular joint with simple but great food and terrific live entertainment. Bud & Alley’s Chef David Bishop Sunday is the day to go to catch the amazing Dread Clampitt band. The place is packed and no one is sitting still during their no-holds-barred bluegrass/funky/jazzy sets. The group’s mandolinist, Balder Saunders, is outstanding. Another impressive menu we found was at Fire in Santa Rosa Beach. Some truly unique and flavorful dishes were brought out. Their signature King Cake Ice Cream was amazing — must be a sellout around Mardi Gras time. Fish Out Of Water in the fabulous Water Color Resort is a romantic dining spot with superlative menu and views of the Gulf. The Songwriter’s Dread Clampitt at Red Bar Festival press conference was held there this year, so the romance atmosphere was out, but the fun was in. The food is always excellent, even if it’s just finger food. One of the tastiest breakfasts we’ve ever had came from Cowgirl Kitchen in Rosemary Beach. It was a breakfast burrito with a side of maple syrup pecan encrusted bacon. I tried to recreate that bacon at home and failed miserably. Go with the original. Coffee is great just about everywhere in SoWal, because most restaurants serve Amavida coffee, which is a local company that uses the finest Fair Trade Fire’s King Cake Ice Cream coffees from around the world.
Press Out Of Water. 68 conference with invited songwriters at Fishwww.AccentOnTampaBay.com
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ur trip wasn’t just about music, we took some side trips to explore the area. An unexpected treasure in Santa Rosa Beach is the beautiful Eden Gardens State Park, with 161 acres of gardens and trees, and an elegant Victorian mansion, the Wesley House. Built out of sturdy (and now very rare) yellow heart pine, the stately 1897 home of white columns and long verandas is furnished mostly with 18th century French furniture. Indeed, it houses the 2nd largest known collection of Louis XVI furniture in the USA. It must be on the A-list for weddings.
Eden Garden’s Wesley House
Each year SoWal picks a local Artist of the Year, and for 2013 it is Andy Saczynski, an artist that uses found items for his 3 dimensional artworks — mostly with a musical theme. Indeed, his work contains bits and pieces of discarded musical instruments. In the little Shops at Grayton you will find Allison Craft with her lovely pearl and leather jewelry.
Rosemary Beach features Tommy’s amazing photography — love his bulldog & butterfly work. Allison Wickey’s Studio & Gallery in Seacrest Beach was voted “Best gallery on the Emerald Coast” and features the works of various artists, including Allison herself. For all things art in SoWal, listen to Claire Bannerman’s “Our Coastal Art Scene” on 30-A Radio 107.1FM, streaming on 30aradio.org/ She really has her finger on the pulse of what’s happening in the area, and has interesting interviews with local and visiting artists.
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he visual art scene is lively in SoWal as well, with some intriguing galleries and boutiques. Allison Wickey The beach communities themselves are actually a feast for the eyes, with their (Please see our article varied architectural styles. You on Allison’s work in Accan tell when you pass from one cent On Tampa Bay’s community to the next because “Looking Good” secthey all have a uniqueness about tion of this issue.) The Tommy Crow Gallery in them. www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
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South Walton
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ow here’s something you don’t see everyday any more, a bookstore — and a record store. Yes. In Seaside, the shopping area has these things. You will find real books at Sundog Books and real vinyl records to browse through at Central Square Records. The Art of Simple is also a very cool shop there, mixing sundries with antiques. Everyone’s favorite breakfast place, The Great Southern Cafe, is located in the Seaside shops. They are well known for their “Grits a Ya Ya” made with Gouda cheese, bacon, shallots, shrimp, mushrooms, spinach and Gouda cheese grits. They serve generous portions of all things good. The building housing the restaurant is actually a charming 1930s home moved from Georgia. Seaside, you may remember, is where the movie “The Truman Show” starring Jim Carrey was filmed. If you were creating the perfect family neighborhood from scratch, you would probably come up with Seaside.
Great Southern’s deliciously abundant portions
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WWII veteran Kenneth Tucker autographs his book at Sundog Books.
lso pretty unique to the SoWal area is the Grayton Beach State Park, where you can see rare dune lakes, where the mouth of a lake opens up and spills into the Gulf. This kind of ecosystem is only found here and in the Northwest Pacific Coast in the USA, and only in a handful of other spots around the world. The dunes may be hundreds of years old, but never get tall as they are sheared off by wind. A beautiful nature trail winds through twisted scrub oaks and magnolias for beach hikers to enjoy.
Rare Dune Lakes
Nature Guide Snookie Parrish points out lupine, a native Florida plant. 70
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Mitzi and Jeff Archer, owners of the Yolo Board Store in Santa Rosa Beach
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tand-up paddle boarding may not be new (Hawaiians have been doing it since at least the 1960s) but Yolo Board has taken it to new heights. The term “Yoloing” is fast becoming part of the lexicon. We have started to see the sport everywhere we travel that has water. Yolo Board has a beautifully outfitted shop in Santa Rosa Beach with just about anything you could possibly need concerning the activity, and is located on a lake for testing out boards and taking lessons. The variety of board styles is impressive, and they even have an inflatable one for easy travel. Comparing Yoloing to canoeing, you have a lot more visibility and enjoyment with spotting sea life as you cruise along on a Yolo Board.
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hatever type of place you choose to stay in South Walton, you will be able to experience some kind of event or festival, as there is something enjoyable happening year round — not to mention sticking your toes in the wonderful sugar sand beaches. Fishing, both salt and fresh water, is abundant, as well as all manner of water sports. Make sure you stop in at the South Walton Visitor Center - folks there are very friendly, knowledgeable and happy to help you with all your travel plans.
Try to time a SoWal visit with the 30A Songwriter’s Festival which will be held January 17-19 in 2014. – it’s a whole lot of fun!
For more Info & Contacts: You can fly Delta to Panama City and drive from there to SoWal: www.Delta.com South Walton Visitor Center, Santa Rosa Beach: www.visitsouthwalton.com/ 30A Songwriter’s Festival, South Walton: www.30asongwritersfestival.com/ Allison Craft, Grayton Beach: www.allisoncraftdesigns.com/ Amavida Coffee & Tea: www.amavida.com/ Andy Saczynski: www.artbyandyski.com/ Bud & Alley’s, Seaside: www.budandalleys.com/ Cowgirl Kitchen, Rosemary Beach: www.cowgirlkitchen.com Dread Clampitt: www.dreadclampitt.com Duke Bardwell: www.dukebardwell.com/ Eden Gardens State Park: www.floridastateparks.org/edengardens/ Fish Out Of Water, Water Color Resort, Seaside: www.watercolorresort.com/ Grayton Beach State Park: www.floridastateparks.org/graytonbeach/ Jessica Cayne: jessicacayne.com Our Coastal Art Scene: 30aradio.org Pandora’s, Grayton Beach: www.pandorasgraytonbeach.com Red Bar, Santa Rosa Beach: www.theredbar.com/ Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort, Destin: www.sandestin.com/ Seaside and Seaside shops: www.seasidefl.com/ Stinky’s fish Camp, Santa Rosa Beach: www.stinkysfishcamp.com/ Tommy Crow Gallery, Rosaemary Beach: www.tommycrow.com/ Yolo Board, Santa Rosa Beach: www.yoloboard.com/
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History Came Alive in St. Augustine For Their 450th Anniversary Sept 8, 1565 - 2015
By Melissa Wolcott Martino and Al Martino Photos by Melissa
450th landing reenactment
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on Pedro Menéndez de Avilés (founder of St. Augustine) and all the other reenactors have stowed their costumes away for another day, the stages have been broken down, and parks cleaned up to signal the end of St. Augustine’s spectacular 450th Anniversary party which lasted for 5 days — well, weeks really, when you consider events leading up to the big long weekend.
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Emmylou Harris performs in a free concert.
Everyone shared in the 450th Anniversary cake(s).
Ensemble EspaĂąol at the St. Augustine Ampitheatre 64
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n September 8, 1565, Pedro Menéndez stepped off his boat onto this spot in la Florida (which had been discovered in 1513 by Ponce de León in his search for the Fountain of Youth.) He brought hundreds of colonists with him — Spanish, Africans and others — and merged with the native Timucuan Indians. Of course, a lot of upheaval, territorial wars, pirate sacking, and illness ensued through those early years, but this area would go on to become the oldest permanent American settlement we still call St. Augustine. Several local families can actually trace their lineage directly back to those early settlers. The 450th celebration included concerts, exhibits, reenactments, tours and a host of events. We were there for three jam-packed days and barely scratched the surface of what there was to see and do. The rain gods held off for most of the outdoor events to the relief of event goers. We managed to catch a delightful concert by Emmylou Harris & Rodney Crowell on Saturday night, and missed seeing Aaron Neville the night before. Unrivaled fireworks finished off the night. Another show, which was mesmerizing, was the Fiesta 450 on Sunday. It was performed by the Ensemble Español at the St. Augustine Ampitheatre, and featured all styles of authentic Spanish dance, culminating in a breathtaking performance of Ravel’s Boléro. We could have parked ourselves in front of the Gazebo in the Plaza de la Constitución for days, where non-stop entertainment took place on the stage — music, dance and historical stories. On Monday the 450th Proclamation was read and a big cake was cut and shared by all the festival goers. Actually there were many large cakes offered in all different flavors to accommodate the huge crowds, and surprisingly, they were really tasty! Elsewhere throughout the town bands played every day in various venues inside and out — too numerous to mention. All the events during the celebration, with the exception of the Ensemble Español performance, were free to the public!
Crowds settle in for gazebo concerts.
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aving visited St. Augustine before, we managed to squeeze in a few attractions that we had not seen in the past, and a few favorites we wanted to return to. The St. Augustine Lighthouse is very distinctive with its black and white striped tower and red beacon housing, and a museum of artifacts recovered in the area seas is on the property. Nightly ghost tours are very popular there. I attempted the 219 steps to the top, but chickened out after the first landing. The open-work wrought iron stairs got me. The most iconic landmark is probably the Castillo de San Marcos, which is the oldest masonry fort in the U.S., dating back to 1672. Nearby is the Colonial Quarter, a fascinating look at life back in the day with working craftsmen. There are several restaurants in the complex that serve tasty food prepared as it was many years ago in keeping with the theme. We hadn’t been to the small Spanish Military Hospital Museum in the Old City before, and found it appallingly fascinating. A docent takes you through the ways of doctoring in the Colonial Spanish days — and it ain’t pretty. However, it’s quite interesting how little the procedures have changed other than snappier looking medical instruments and (thank God) anesthesia. The Lightner Museum (the former 1887 elegant Alcazar Hotel) is one of our favorite attractions in the city, with the eclectic but very interesting collection of wealthy publisher Otto C. Lightner (1946) from ancient artifacts to gorgeous art nouveau glass and a lot in between.
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Castillo de San Marcos
Costumed characters at the Colonial Quarter. Spanish Military Hospital sugical tools.
A section of the gorgeous Lightner Museum
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The iconic St. Augustine Lighthouse
219 steps to the top.
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The landing reenactment.
The Fountain of Youth display of the meeting of the Spanish and Timucuan Indians. 68
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hen in St. Augustine, a visit to the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park is a must. Through dogged ongoing archaeological findings, we know that the first settlement was located at the present day Fountain of Youth Park, where folks can still go to drink from those famous waters while learning of the history of the area and seeing the digs. We drank the water and are still waiting for some positive results. Right next to the Fountain of Youth Park is the Mission Nombre de Dios, which is where the original landing took place, and an interesting museum is part of the present day shrine. It was here that Menéndez knelt to kiss a wooden cross presented to him by Father Francisco López de Mendoza Grajales, chaplain of his expedition. Now, in 2015, on the morning of Sept 8 (timed down to the hour of the original landing) Don Pedro Menéndez de Avilés stepped off the boat and was greeted by a priest, dignitaries and Native Americans — all in period costume. From there, the very impressive procession of the re-enactors and spectators walked the streets to the Cathedral Basilica for a Commemorative Mass highlighted by the presence of Boston Archbishop Séan Patrick O’Malley and the attendance of 19 bishops from around the country. A relic — a finger of St. Augustine’s — was loaned by the Vatican for the occasion, and will remain in St. Augustine for a while. At the Mission we met a descendent of Pedro Menendez — Mark Menendez — who was in full costume as his ancestor, and standing in front of a beautiful portrait of Pedro that he had painted. He is quite interesting and a man of many talents.
Reenactors at the Mission.
Mark Menendez stands in front of his painting of his ancestor, Pedro Menendez at the Mission.
Mission Nombre de Dios www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
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t. Augustine has a very diverse offering of accommodations, from charming B&Bs in the historic area to modern hotels on the outskirts. We stayed at Jaybird’s Inn, which was just minutes from most of the attractions. Jaybird’s is a great choice, as it offers a full free continental breakfast off the lobby, and has a good full restaurant right on premises. Guestrooms are well lit with comfortable beds, in-room coffeemakers and refrigerators. A fitness room, pool, and bicycles for rent are a plus. Bikes are encouraged in St. Augustine to cut down on traffic, and it’s easier to get around. You can also jump on the Red Train tour next door to the Inn, which is a good way to see the Old City. Delicious non-chain dining options abound in St. Augustine with different ethnic offerings. One memorable dinner we enjoyed was at the Raintree Restaurant which is in an old restored 1879 Victorian home. Their cuisine blends Mediterranean, American, pasta, steak and seafood, and is beautifully prepared. Our choices of a Jumbo Shrimp & Lobster Pasta tossed in a creamy Champagne Butter Sauce, and a Bleu cheese Crusted Filet Mignon were grand. St. Augustine’s big celebratory bash may be over for this year, but events are always happening, and with the nearby beaches, championship golf courses, and all that history, it is a place you can visit again and again and never get bored.
Jumbo Shrimp & Lobster Pasta tossed in a creamy Champagne Butter Sauce
Jaybird’s Inn
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The Raintree Restaurant in 1879 restored Victorian home. www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
El Galeón, a replica of a ship that traveled the coasts of Florida 500 years ago, cruised into Matanzas Bay for the 450th.
IF YOU GO…
St Augustine Visitors Bureau - www.floridashistoriccoast.com/ Castillo de San Marcos - www.nps.gov/casa Colonial corner - www.colonialquarter.com/ Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park - www.fountainofyouthflorida.com/ Jaybird’s Inn – www.jaybirdsinn.com/ Lightner Museum - www.lightnermuseum.org/ Mission Nombre de Dios - www.missionandshrine.org/ Raintree Restaurant – www.raintreerestaurant.com/ Spanish Military Hospital Museum - spanishmilitaryhospitalmuseum.com/ St. Augustine Ampitheatre - www.staugamphitheatre.com/ St. Augustine Lighthouse - www.staugustinelighthouse.com/ www.AccentOnTampaBay.com
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