13 minute read
PRIČA U KAMENU / A STORY SET IN STONE
Fotografije / Photos: Boris Kačan Neven Fazinić Marko Sitar Damir Pačić Mario Hlača Čara Maja Šain Dea Botica TZ Korčula
Korčula je jedan od najljepših i najbolje očuvanih srednjovjekovnih gradova na hrvatskoj obali koji nautičari rado posjećuju zbog sjajne marine u središtu grada, bogate povijesti i odlične gastronomije
The town of Korčula is one of the most beautiful and best-preserved medieval towns on the Croatian coast, hugely popular with boaters because of a superb marina located in the city centre, the town's rich history and excellent cuisine
Brojni nautičari koji dolaze na Jadran često će reći da se na hrvatskoj obali i otocima kultura života na moru isprepleće s prirodnim i povijesnim znamenitostima, često umotana u neodoljiv šarm ljetnih zabava i podcrtana vrsnom gastronomijom. Među više od tisuću jadranskih otoka Korčula je posve drugačija. Prepuna legendi, povijesti i dobre hrane. Mediteranska priča u kamenu koja je u posljednjih nekoliko godina među „must see” odredištima za nautičare na Jadranu. Pritom je ACI marina u samom središtu grada idealna početna točka za upoznavanje jednog od najljepših i najbolje očuvanih srednjovjekovnih gradova na hrvatskoj obali. Many boaters who come to the Adriatic often say that on the Croatian coast and islands, the culture of life near the sea is intertwined with natural and historical sights, often wrapped in the irresistible charm of summer parties and underlined by superb cuisine. Among a thousand plus Adriatic islands, Korčula is completely different. Full of legends, history and delicious food, it is a Mediterranean story set in stone that in recent years has become one of the 'must see' destinations for boaters in the Adriatic. ACI Marina Korčula, situated in the very centre of the town, is an ideal starting point for exploring one of the most beautiful and best-preserved medieval towns on the Croatian coast.
Korčula očarava bezvremenskom ljepotom, minula vremena utisnula su trag u kamenu koji priča. Glavna gradska ulica pravilno presijeca grad na istočnu i zapadnu polovicu te pokrajnje ulice što idu do gradskih zidina i neodoljivo podsjećaju na riblju kost, što omogućuje slobodno strujanje zraka, ali i štiti od jakih vjetrova. Povijesno središte sagrađeno je na malom poluotoku što sužava prolaz između otoka i kopna na samo 1270 metara. Upravo je mogućnost nadzora plovidbe galija i jedrenjaka istočnom obalom Jadrana na tome mjestu bio razlog postanka gradića tvrđave što je za razne gospodare činio tu važnu službu. Korčula je bila okružena zidinama i kulama iz 13., 14. i 15. stoljeća. Kamenoklesarstvo i brodogradnja od davnina su najvažniji korčulanski zanati. Kvalitetan kamen iz korčulanskih kava bio je nadaleko poznat i izvozio se po cijelome svijetu. U 15. i 16. stoljeću talijanski i domaći graditelji podižu bogato ukrašene palače i crkve. Majstor graditelj Korčulanin Marko Andrijić dovršio je zvonik i podigao nebnicu nad glavnim oltarom katedrale sv. Marka s oltarnom palom talijanskog umjetnika Jacopa Tintoretta. U gradu Korčuli postoje tri bratovštine: Svih Svetih (1301.), Sv. Roka
Korčula will enchant you with its timeless beauty; the bygone times left a mark in the stone that can tell stories. The main street neatly cuts through the city, dividing it into the eastern and western half, and the side streets extending to the city walls are strongly reminiscent of a herringbone. Such a plan allows free circulation of air, but also protects against strong winds. The historic centre is built on a small peninsula that protrudes into the strait between the island and the mainland, narrowing it to only 1,270 m. The possibility of monitoring the passage of galleys and sailing ships along the eastern Adriatic coast was the reason for the development of the walled city, which provided this important service to various masters. Korčula was surrounded by walls and towers from the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. Stonemasonry and shipbuilding have been Korčula's most important trades since ancient times. Quality stone from Korčula's quarries was widely known and exported all over the world. In the 15th and 16th centuries, Italian and local builders erected richly decorated palaces and churches. Marko Andrijić, a master builder from Korčula, finished the bell tower and built a ciborium over the main
(1575.) i Sv. Mihovila ili Blažene Djevice Marije od Utjehe – Pojasa (1603.). Bratovštine sudjeluju u procesijama tijekom cijele godine, od kojih su najdojmljivije tijekom Vele setemane i na Veli petak te za blagdan Sv. Todora (29. srpnja), nebeskog suzaštitnika grada Korčule, kad se iz bratimskih dvorana iznosi veli vosak – torci, cereferali, križi i sav sjajni liturgijski nakit koji bratovštine imaju. Najbolji uvid u bogatu povijest dobit ćete posjetom palači Gabriellis u kojoj se nalazi Muzej grada Korčule, a brojne uličice koje obiluju šarmantnim portama i elegantnim palačama pokazat će vam svu raskoš arhitekture i kulturne baštine. Jedan od najpoznatijih korčulanskih brendova jest Marko Polo, najveći svjetski putnik iz 13. stoljeća. Već stoljećima razvija se legenda o Korčuli kao mjestu njegova rođenja. U priči u kojoj se briše granica između mita i zbilje jedno je nedvojbeno: Marko Polo sudjelovao je u pomorskoj bitki svoje Venecije 1298. te su ga Đenovljani zarobili i utamničili u Korčuli. U gradu je sačuvana rodna kuća, kao i uspomena na velikog Marka. Obitelj Depolo danas je još jedna od najstarijih korčulanskih obitelji. Jedinstvenu tradiciju otoka Korčule predstavljaju i plesovi s mačevima moreška, moštra i kumpanija, koji su zaštićeni kao nematerijalna baština Republike Hrvatske. Ti atraktivni plesovi prikazuju borbu osvajača i domaće vojske, dok moreška uprizoruje borbu dvaju kraljeva (crnog i bijelog) i njihovih vojski za ljubav djevojke Bule. Viteški plesovi tradicionalno se izvode na blagdane svetaca altar of St Mark's Cathedral, whose altarpiece was painted by the Italian painter Jacopo Tintoretto. There are three confraternities in the town of Korčula: the Confraternity of All Saints (1301), the Confraternity of St Roch (1575) and the Confraternity of St Michael or Our Lady of Consolation/the Girdle (1603). Confraternities participate in processions throughout the year, the most impressive of which are held during the Holy Week and on Good Friday, as well as on 29 July, the feast day of St Theodore (one of the two heavenly protectors of the city of Korčula), when all the valuables are brought out – big candles called torci, processional candle holders, or cereferali, crosses and all other shiny liturgical objects that are in the confraternities' possession. You will get the best insight into Korčula's rich history by visiting the Gabrielis Palace, which houses the Korčula City Museum, while the numerous narrow streets lined with charming entrances and elegant palaces will show you all the grandeur of architecture and cultural heritage. One of the most famous symbols of Korčula is Marco Polo, the world's greatest traveller from the 13th century. The legend of Korčula as the place of his birth has been around for centuries. In a story that blurs the line between myth and reality, one thing is certain: Marco Polo participated in the naval battle for his native Venice in 1298 and was captured and imprisoned in Korčula by the Genoese. In the city, his family house has been preserved, as has
zaštitnika mjesta, a u sklopu Festivala viteških igara tijekom ljetnih mjeseci za brojne turiste. Kumpanija se izvodi u Veloj Luci, Blatu, Smokvici, Čari i Pupnatu, u Žrnovu se izvodi moštra, a u Korčuli moreška. S pogledom od milijun dolara na samu povijesnu jezgru grada ACI marina Korčula jedna je od potentnijih destinacija u najvećem lancu marina na Mediteranu. Uoči nove sezone ta popularna i među nautičarima omiljena marina doživjela je brojne promjene. U ACI marini Korčula rekonstruiran je lukobran koji omogućuje bolju zaštićenost uslijed nepovoljnih vremenskih utjecaja, ponajprije jakih sjevernih vjetrova. Osim toga povećana je razina usluge postavljanjem nove električne i vodovodne infrastrukture, hidrantske mreže te internetskog signala. Novi lukobran pridonijet će ukupnoj turističkoj ponudi grada Korčule, čiji važan dio čini i ACI marina Korčula. Budući da se ACI marina nalazi u neposrednoj blizini gradskih zidina te je i sama jedna od žila kucavica grada, lukobran se oblaže kamenom kako bi se marina potpuno uklopila u vizualni identitet grada. U sljedećim je godinama predviđeno oblaganje kamenom srednjega gata te obalnoga platoa. Rekonstrukcija lukobrana prva je od pet predviđenih faza rekonstrukcije cjelokupne marine. Predviđeni su još gradnja hotela, luksuznih smještajnih jedinica, restorana i podzemne garaže, podizanje nivoa platoa marine i srednjeg gata te u završnoj fazi projekta premještanje suhog veza i dizalice. Raskoš arhitekture i bogata baština prožima i korčulansku gastronomiju koja svojom raskoši privlači brojne ljubitelje dobre kuhinje. Palača Lešić Dimitri nalazi se u srcu starog grada Korčule i profinjenom elegancijom upotpunjuje bogatu povijest i kulturnu baštinu otoka. U sklopu palače smješten je i restoran LD nagrađen Michelinovom zvjezdicom koji crpi inspiraciju iz bogate gastronomske tradicije otoka. Za one koji žele uživati u tradicionalnoj kuhinji tu je konoba Adio, Mare utemeljena 1974. godine. Srce konobe podsjeća na neka davna vremena, a na terasi, okruženi stablima korčulanskih limuna the memory of the great Marco. The Depolo family is one of the oldest families in Korčula today. The unique tradition of the island of Korčula is also represented in sword dances called Moreška, Moštra and Kumpanija, which are under protection as intangible heritage of the Republic of Croatia. These attractive dances depict a battle between the invaders and the domestic army, while the battle in Moreška is also fought between two kings (black and white), and their armies, for the love of a girl named Bula. The sword dances are traditionally performed on the feast days of the towns' patron saints, and, as part of the Sword Dance Festival, they are staged for many tourists during the summer months. Kumpanija is performed in Vela Luka, Blato, Smokvica, Čara and Pupnat. Moštra is performed in Žrnovo, and Moreška in Korčula. With a 'million-dollar' view of the old town, ACI Marina Korčula is one of the most prominent destinations in the largest marina chain in the Mediterranean. Ahead of the new season, this marina, a favourite with boaters, has undergone a number of changes. The breakwater of ACI Marina Korčula has been reconstructed, providing better protection against rough weather, notably strong north winds. In addition, the level of service has been improved by installing new electrical and plumbing systems and a hydrant network, and boosting the internet signal. The new breakwater will add to the overall tourist offering of the town of Korčula, with ACI Marina Korčula as its important part. Since the ACI marina is located in the immediate vicinity of the city walls and is itself one of the city’s hubs, the breakwater has been stone-clad so that the marina can blend in with the visual identity of the city. The middle pier and the marina waterfront area will also be clad in stone in the coming years. The reconstruction of the breakwater is the first of five planned phases in the reconstruction of the entire marina. There are plans to build a hotel, luxury accommodation units, a restaurant and an underground garage, and to raise the level of the marina and the middle pier. In the final stage of the project, the dry berth and the crane will be relocated.
i naranči, možete uživati u okusima i mirisima te gledati najstariju korčulansku crkvicu sv. Petra, korčulansku katedralu sv. Marka ili npr. kuću Marka Pola. Svakako kušajte lokalne specijalitete poput žrnovskih makaruna ili korčulanske pašticade. Popularno mjesto za nautičare je i Maha bar koji je u protekle dvije godine ponudom kreativnom street fooda oduševio domaću i stranu publiku. Inače, Maha bar mlađi je nasljednik Konobe Maha koja se nalazi desetak minuta vožnje od grada Korčule prema Veloj Luci. Tradicija vinogradarstva i vinarstva na Korčuli traje od vremena starih Grka. Otok je poznat po autohtonim sortama grožđa i vrhunskim bijelim vinima. Grk se uzgaja u Lumbardi, na istočnom dijelu otoka, dok se u središnjem dijelu uzgajaju pošip i rukatac u vinogradima Čare i Smokvice. Od crnih sorti najrašireniji je plavac mali. Ako ste ljubitelj vina, svakako ih degustirajte u lokalnim vinarijama i poslušajte autentične priče vinara o tradiciji, požrtvovnosti i posvećenosti otočnom načinu života. Brojni otočići koji su poput djece rasuti ispred grada Korčule prava su mjesta za nautički hedonizam. Mi ćemo vam preporučiti dvije milje udaljen otočić Vela Stupa, jedno od omiljenih izletišta Korčulana. Tirkizno more i prekrasna priroda glavni su aduti tog malog raja, a u posljednjih nekoliko godina zbog Moro Beach Stupe postao je i zvijezda Instagrama. U smiraj dana udobno se smjestite na svojem brodu i promatrajte zlatne zrake sunca kako se igraju s kamenim vizurama grada. Svaki trenutak u toj ljepoti činit će vam se poput vječnosti. Architectural grandeur and rich heritage are reflected in Korčula's culinary delights, attracting many gourmets. The Lešić Dimitri Palace is located in the heart of the old town of Korčula and its refined elegance complements the island's rich history and cultural heritage. In the palace, there is also a Michelin-starred restaurant named LD, which draws inspiration from the rich culinary tradition of the island. For those who want to enjoy traditional cuisine there is Konoba Adio Mare, founded in 1974. The central part of the restaurant is reminiscent of old times, and you can sit on the terrace, surrounded by Korčula's lemon and orange trees, savouring the flavours and scents and admiring the view over St Peter's, the oldest church in Korčula, St Mark's, the Korčula Cathedral, or, for instance, the Marco Polo house. Be sure to try local specialties such as Žrnovski makaruni (home-made pasta) or Korčula pašticada (a beef dish). A popular place among boaters is the Maha Bar, whose creative street food has, in the past two years, become a favourite with locals and tourists alike. The Maha Bar is the younger brother of the Konoba Maha, which is about a ten-minute drive from the town of Korčula on the way to Vela Luka. The tradition of viticulture and winemaking on Korčula has been going on since the time of the ancient Greeks. The island is known for its autochthonous grape varieties and premium white wines. Grk is grown in Lumbarda, on the eastern part of the island, while, in its central part, Pošip and Rukatac are grown in the vineyards of Čara and Smokvica. Of the red varieties, Plavac Mali is most widespread. If you are a wine lover, be sure to taste them in local wineries and listen to the authentic stories told by winemakers about tradition, self-sacrifice and dedication to the island lifestyle. Numerous small islands that are scattered like children in front of the town of Korčula are just the right place for hedonism at sea. We recommend the island of Vela Stupa, which is situated at a distance of two miles from Korčula and is one of the favourite excursion sites for the locals. The turquoise sea and beautiful nature are the main assets of this little paradise, and in recent years, due to Moro Beach Stupe, it has become an Instagram star. At the end of the day, make yourself comfortable on your boat and watch the golden rays of the sun play with the stone city. Every moment in this beautiful setting will seem endless.
Korčula će vas oduševiti pričom o Marku Polu, moreškom, nekim od najboljih hrvatskih bijelih vina i neodoljivim šarmom nautičkog hedonizma
In Korčula you will be captivated by the story of Marko Polo, the Moreška dance, some of the best Croatian white wines, and the irresistible charm of hedonism at sea
