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Adventures Collection /advancedadventures
What adventure do you dream of?
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/advancedadventures
Every year our equipment accompanies countless small and large adventures. Once again we’ve put together some of these special experiences in a magazine. We are pleased that you can now hold this third edition of the /advancedadventures collection in your hand, and we hope that each and every pilot can yet again find inspiration from these new paragliding adventures. All of us like to discuss successful and fruitful histories, but does everything always go perfectly? We believe not. Among these stories are two that didn’t go as originally planned. Success and failure often lie very close when it comes to bivouac adventures in unexplored, desolate places. Sometimes an assumed failure actually represents something rather special. How can this be? Because in the end, it’s the experience that counts. We hope that we can inspire you to embark on your own completely personal advancedadventures. Whether it goes according to plan or not is not the point; set# backs are essential building blocks of success. We are curious to hear about your individual stories and look forward to your links on #advancedadventures.
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Adventures around the World 4
All or none Why vol-biv in the Himalayas is pure teamwork
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Into the Eclipse
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Contents
Bicho’s journey to the eclipse
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Make the impossible possible A quest for adventure in Patagonia
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Chasing 100 Miles The American way to a personal best
25
Jurassic coastline Love at first sight
30
Majestic soaring Pooled experience at the Ortler
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Fascinating light show Ski and fly in Lofoten
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Above the Glacier Sea Happiness in the mountains
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Dreams like hazelnuts A vol-biv through the Norwegian wilderness
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Time out Climb & Fly between professional commitments
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Forgotten coasts Paragliding in the southern hemisphere
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Deep in the Caucasus Bivouac flying cannot be planned
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Contents
33
3
49
25
30 62
41 54
4
20
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All or none
4
All or none
#himalaya #volbiv #notasplanned
Why vol -biv in the Himalayas is pure teamwork
Fred Souchon, Marc Gallien and Martin Beaujouan set out from the Indo-Nepalese border heading west. They wanted to fly a still-unexplored route at the heart of the Himalayan ridge towards Zanskar. The bivouac cross-country flight held unexpected challenges for the team because feelings and personal decisions must be respected in every expedition. Martin reports.
All or none 5 Morning over Mandy Ridge at Bir.
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All or none 6
Breathtaking scenery in Ladakh: the Zanskar joins the Indus.
All or none 7
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All or none 8
Inhospitable valleys in the Munsiyari region. Nanda Kot in the background.
I am very motivated to explore one of the remotest valleys on earth while hanging under a piece of cloth from a few lines. Martin Beaujouan
After a couple of hours of steep climbing we reach Munsiyari. An imposing snow-covered Nanda Devi towers in the distance. At 7,816 metres it is the highest mountain in the Indian part of the Himalayas. A short break, then we lift off from our high-altitude take-off place. The villagers wave us farewell. We’re in upbeat mood, looking forward to our Zanskar adventure. In a few minutes we reach 4,000 metres. It’s distinctly cooler up here. Slowly we work our way along the ridge towards the west. Flying as a threesome has its difficulties. It’s almost impossible for the three of us to make equal progress in the same thermal, so it takes some time to cross each saddle as a group. Then the search for a landing and bivouacking site begins; but where? The valley below is extremely deep, options very limited. We fly over one saddle and discover an east-facing clearing on the slope. It could work. Today this landing place is actually in the lee, but tomorrow it will definitely make a good take-off spot.
Crash landings in the lee Marc goes straight for it. He battles with the leeside approach – and throws down a crash landing on the slope. That was a real challenge – no question. Fred and I are still high in the air. I’m even soaring the other side, but we have agreed to stay together, so we will all land down there. A strong headwind of 25 km/h is blowing over the ridge. We find the corresponding strong sink in the lee side. I manage to catch the upwind component of the rotor and flare on the only flat area available. Done it! It doesn’t go so well for Fred. He lands in downwash, the force of the impact increased by the weight of his equipment. “That was a damned hard landing”, Fred admits to me later. “It really hurt.” The next morning his foot is blue and really swollen. We cannot fly further. We spend the whole day down-climbing 1,200 metres through trackless country to reach the nearest village. By taxi and on foot we reach the hospital three days later. The diagnosis is shattering: Fred has broken his ankle.
All or none 9
The Himalayas have everything to offer, from steppe-like landscape to deep snow glaciers.
Zanskar – all or nothing a flying mistake or a misjudgement of the For Fred the adventure is over. Marc and weather. Even so, I am highly motivated I change our plan. Train and aeroplane to explore one of the remotest valleys on have brought us directly to the icing on our earth while hanging under a piece of cloth Himalayan vol-biv adventure cake: Zanskar. from a few lines. Marc, on the other hand, Our take-off spot lies picturesquely at the seems only now to be realising what bivplace where the Zanskar valley meets the ouac flying in the Himalayas really means. Indus. The landscape is simply grandiose. “What’s up, Marc?“ But I can guess. “My Every shade of brown-grey earth tone, trip ends here; I’m flying back to Leh”, he green poplars and coloured prayer flags answers. contrast impressively with the deep blue sky. With 30 kilos of water in our packs we take off, with the intention of crossing one of the remotest high-mountain regions by air. Conditions are challenging. The valley, which extends for hundreds of kilometres ahead of us, is very narrow. Marc seems uncertain. I take the initiative and set course. Marc stays in the thermal. He continues to circle in a neutral spot, without gaining height. What’s his problem? The last few days have played on our nerves. Now and then doubts have arisen. There’s the concern of injury, or worse; of
The diagnosis is shattering: Fred has broken his ankle. Martin Beaujouan
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All or none 10
Sunset mood on the way to Manali.
Fred’s injury and Marc’s decision highlight the limits and risks of bivouac flying. Martin Beaujouan
Flying alone as an option? I try to suppress my disappointment. Part of me is fired up for this adventure. The opportunity to fly in this place can’t be abandoned just like that. But Marc has the stove and cooking pot in the back of his harness – without hot water there’s no proper food! A selfish thought, admittedly; then I think of my pregnant wife Aurélie, waiting for me at home. A solo flight in the Zanskar valley has the potential to mess up my family life considerably. My gaze takes in the stunning high mountain panorama, here at the roof of the world. Then I also turn and head for Leh. Back to civilisation We decide to spend the remaining days of our three-week trip in the paragliding mecca of Bir, travelling there by minibus. On the last section of this arduous journey I fly from the 3,978 metre Rohtang Pass. When in Bir, the popular 200 km triangle is a must. Just splendid! Finally we summon up the courage to make another short vol-biv towards Manali and back. For a time we circle in the sky with vultures. An especially inexperienced one flies dangerously close to me – and instantly gets itself tangled in
my lines. I look up – my heart racing. The majestic bird struggles, feathers flying. A few seconds later he escapes, unharmed. Phew, that was close! The memory of this trip will stay with us for some time. There were no distance records during our bivouac adventure in India, but plenty of adventure. Fred’s injury and Marc’s decision highlight the limits and risks of bivouac flying. And when you’re travelling as a team, the feelings and decisions of each individual has to be respected. When it works it’s magical! If it doesn’t work, then you always have a reason to try again.
About Fred Souchon Fred is a keen paraglider pilot, alpinist and qualified mountain guide. He works as a professional mountain rescuer in Chamonix. He has crossed Kyrgyzstan by bivouac flying. Martin Beaujouan Martin is a paragliding instructor and runs a flying school. He vol-bivouacked across Kyrgyzstan with Fred. He has flown 2,700 km through Chile and Peru with Antoine Girard. Marc Gallien Marc has been flying sin-
Hard landing in the lee. Fred’s ankle is broken.
ce the 1980s and has worked as a flying instructor ever since. He was a member of the first attempt to fly from
All or none
the 6,768 metre Huascaran in Peru.
Film
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youtu.be/YKB8a6zZsII Equipment
OMEGA X ALPS 2
LIGHTNESS 2 The team reach a hospital after three days, and Fred gets proper treatment.
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Into the Eclipse
#paramotor #solareclipse #onceinalifetime
Into the Eclipse Bicho’s journey to the eclipse
Bicho Carrera planned a special flight on the day of a total eclipse of the sun. The young Chilean would fly his paraglider in the darkened sky of the eclipse as the moon passed exactly in front of the sun. The result: an unforgettable experience – and fantastic pictures.
Into the Eclipse
This is the kind of adventure you only experience once in your career. Victor “Bicho” Carrera
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About Bicho Carrera The 23-year-old Chilean professional pilot spends the southern summer at home where he operates a t andem business. In the northern hemisphere summer he lives in Europe and competes in the Acro World Cup. He finished second overall in the 2019 season.
Film https://www.redbull.com/cl-es/ videos/viaje-al-centro-del-eclipse Equipment
OMIKRON
On July the second 2019 hundreds of thousands of South American citizens trembled with excitement in anticipation of this rare spectacle. At 16:49 exactly, in Chile, the moon passed between the sun and the earth. A total eclipse ensued. Victor “Bicho” Carrera brought some spectacular pictures of this unique natural phenomenon back with him. At the decisive moment no one was closer to the sun than the 23-year-old paraglider pilot.
Solar eclipse “It was my first solar eclipse”, reported the enthusiastic young Chilean. At the moment the moon completely hid the sun, life became completely still, dark and cold. “I already had a queasy feeling up there that there was something crazy about doing this – a lunatic experience if you want to be literal”. It was fortunate that Bicho did not know what to expect. “When the critical time came I felt somewhat flustered.” He had only two and a half minutes of complete shadow in which to get the glider in the right position for the camera.
In the centre Redemption was granted, as the team leader reported from the ground: “Bicho, we’ve got it!” Straight away all the tension that had built for days and weeks fell away: the journey from Europe to Chile, five days searching for the right take-off place – finally found in the ancient mountain mining town of Condoriaco – numerous test flights, two and a half minutes for the shooting, the full cooperation of the whole team. Uffffff. “But it worked”. This day was like no other. For a couple of minutes Bicho flew in the centre of the sun.
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Make the impossible possible
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The impossible
#patagonia #climbandfly #extreme
A quest for adventure in Patagonia
There are a mere handful of pilots who have ever flown in Patagonia. Usually the wind is too strong, the weather too unpredictable. Aaron Durogati tried it anyway and went to Patagonia with Daniel Ladurner. Together they wanted to climb Cerro Torre – one of the world’s most difficult peaks – and fly down on the tandem.
The impossible 15 Aaron on the summit of the Aguja de Ia S, the impressive Cerro Torre in the background.
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The impossible 16
Aaron launches successfully from the Aguja Saint Exupéry, visible to the left of the wing.
I never travel without a wing. To bring a light paraglider always pays off. Aaron Durogati
Up they went, rope length by rope length. Adventure is Uncertainty After 13 hours on the steep terrain their feet Apart from this difficult take-off site, Pata gonia is notorious for its bad weathhurt, fingers were scraped and cut, heads tired. The wind was very much in evidence. er. This bad weather includes the lightning-fast onset of windstorms – up to It toyed with the climbing rope, whipping it 200 km/h. Any mistake on the mountain upwards. On the summit there appeared to is critical – always. Rescue would take be a full-blown gale in progress. Launching a paraglider in 130 km/h winds is unthinka- days. Mobile phone reception? Forget it! ble. Even so, Aaron Durogati looked happy. What drives one on, to go to such an isolated and bleak place with a paraglider? The view from up there, in the middle of the Patagonian Los Glacieras National Park, is “It is the sense of adventure that excites me so much. To do something that no one has quite breathtaking. ever done before. Not to know whether I will be able to fly or not. I want to make the The courage to try something new impossible possible.” Aaron had flown to Patagonia with Daniel Ladurner at the beginning of January. The plan: to climb the steep granite needles that punch through the Patagonian ice sheet and, with a bit of luck, take off from the top with the tandem. The Cerro Torre is just about the most extraordinary mountain formation on our planet – all routes to the top are for top-level alpinists only. After climbing on rock, ice and more or less vertical snow sheets they waited on the summit plateau – which Aaron’s research had shown to be suitable for a tandem take-off.
The impossible 17
On the way to the Aguja Saint Exupéry the team had to overcome several difficulties, snowfields included.
Enjoy every moment The original plan to climb the Cerro Torre was not possible for the two South Tyro leans – conditions were too unfavourable. Instead, the pair climbed the Aguja Poince not. Again, 130 km/h winds on top made a take-off impossible but again, the beauty of the Patagonian vista took their breath away. In Aaron’s words: “To stand alone on the summit is one of life’s privileges”.
Patagonia is not made for flying. Aaron Durogati
The next weather window came a few days later. The goal was Aguja Saint Exupéry in the Fitz Roy mountain group. Aaron realised there was a problem: the available surface is very small, too small to launch a tandem from, so he took his solo wing in his rucksack – Daniel would have to abseil down with a friendly rope team.
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The privilege to paraglide “It was one of the most difficult take-offs that I have ever made”, reflects Aaron. Any mistake could be fatal. “Three metres, that was all the space I had. One step too many and I would be falling down the rock wall.” After more than 15 hours climbing up Aguja Saint Exupéry Aaron succeeded in the impossible: he managed to take off just below the summit. “The flight was stunning. After a turbulent take-off the air was smoother and I could see the Fitz Roy range from a very special vantage point.”
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The impossible
Aaron’s extremely small and rocky take-off spot – one step behind him is empty space.
The white circle shows Aaron’s take-off ledge below the summit. No room for mistakes here!
I’m looking for adventure – for the challenge. And flying in Patagonia is an incredible adventure. Aaron Durogati
Down below he waited half the night for his rope partner to arrive, reminding him just how quickly a paraglider gets you to the valley floor. “I knew that the opportunity for a take-off would be very small. The flight was one of the best I have ever experienced.” What was the wind like? “I took off in the lee of approximately 40 km/h – it was very sporting. As I said, one of my most difficult take-offs ever!”
The impossible
The approach to the Aguja Saint Exupéry is long and arduous: more than six hours non-stop.
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About Aaron Durogati Aaron has been a professional sportsman since 2009 and is regarded as one of the world‘s best paraglider pilots: he won the World Cup in 2013 and 2017, and to date he is the only pilot to have won two PWC Superfinals. His exceptional abilities were again demonstrated in the Red
The team bivouac at the Laguna Sucia under the open sky – no tent, to save weight.
Bull X-Alps 2019. As well as paragliding, the South Tyrolian also loves climbing and mountaineering, even better when they are combined with paragliding
Film youtu.be/don4emZyB2w
Equipment
PI 2
The combination of flying and climbing in Patagonia is fantastic and extremely demanding at the same time. Aaron Durogati
STRAPLESS
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Chasing 100 Miles
#keriovalley #xcflying #100miles
Chasing 100 Miles The American way to a personal best
American extreme climber and filmmaker Cedar Wright travels to the Kerio Valley in Kenya, hoping to make a dream come true. He wants to crack the 100-mile barrier for the first time in his short flying career. With him is his mentor Nick Greece. The idea that things don’t always go according to plan certainly applies to Cedar’s “Cross Country Flying in Exotic Places” adventure story. A moviemaker through and through, his refreshing shoot of the experience is packed with American humour. Let yourself be carried away!
Chasing 100 Miles 21 Cedar flying along the edge of the Kerio Valley.
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The magical ridge in the Kerio Valley is the place to achieve a personal record. But it’s also one of the most turbulent flying spots.
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Chasing 100 Miles
Nick Greece
“I’m as ready as a man can be.” Cedar keeps the camera rolling thoughout. “Holy Wright takes another deep breath. Flying shit!“, Cedar declares. In typical American conditions are good this early morning. A style he puts a brave face on the painful crowd of Kenyan youngsters is gathered crash landing. “I’m traumatised, I’ve had on the take-off. Cedar’s companion and enough of this.“ Almost defiantly he packs mentor Nick Greece is also ready. The his things together. This 100-mile business camera rolls. One, two, three... then the is for the birds. two Americans lift off, one after the other. The Kerio Valley Nature Reserve lies below The memory of a goldfish their feet. Woohoo! Cedar has a goal. He What makes a good paraglider pilot? Nick: wants to crack his personal best and make “A good paraglider pilot has the memory of his first 100-mile flight. In the Kerio Valley a goldfish.” Get up, shrug off the sense of you fly along the windy edge of the ter- failure, move on. Now more than ever, the rain, which falls steeply away from a high two pilots think. They don’t give up that eaplateau. In Cedar’s words: “It can be quite sily. Equipment, wing, personal attitude – turbulent and unpredictable: there’s an ex- all good. Today will see the second attempt. plosive mix of thermals and wind. If you get a collapse there’s little or no time to Conditions prove the pilots to be right. Their sort it out”. confidence is back. With a certain composure they soar along the ridge. Today the At the limit – or over it? miles clip steadily past under the Kenyan Cedar is fiercely determined to push his sun: 16... 32... 60 miles. Ecstatic, they fly limits. 100 miles is a long way. Can he on. This feels damned good. For a paramake it? Not today, as it turns out; it’s glider pilot, flying 100 miles is like a comtoo turbulent and the two have to land. A ing of age. Cedar describes the advenmealie field serves as an emergency land- ture. “When you take off you never know ing place. In the vigorous tailwind Cedar where you might land.” You spend almost loses control for a moment. The arrival is the whole day in the air, “so you have to be rough. He somersaults in the corn. Nick mentally fit and resilient.” These bodily and Every morning young Kenyans gather, wanting to find out everything about paragliding.
About Cedar Wright likes risk. As an extreme climber and paraglider pilot the American has a pronounced leaning towards passion and commitment. Again and again his ultimate adventures take him into situations which create an element of suffering. When he is not in the skies or on the mountains he makes films, music or writes stories. Nick Greece is one of the best pilots Smashed it! Joy at beating a personal best of 100 miles.
in North America and has won nume‑ rous World Cup titles. He especially likes to explore every little crevice and corner from the air. Nick is very proud of
To fly 100 miles feels like a coming of age for a paraglider pilot.
Chasing 100 Miles
his passport which is full of the exotic stamps of the more than 30 countries in which he has flown.
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Cedar Wright
Film
mental challenges drive the Californian on. “You are seven to eight hours in the air, without a motor.” For Cedar this is the ultimate adventure sport, “That’s exactly what I like.”
Crack your personal record here Today went like clockwork. The thermals carried the two pilots further than they‘d dared to hope. They cracked the 100 miles without problem. Thumbs up. Enthusiastically they glide on – as far as the wind will take them. 106... 110... at the end let‘s say 117 miles in the logbook (173.2 kilometres). Cedar has the widest grin: “I FUCKIN‘ DID IT!” He can hardly believe it. Nick, who came up with the idea for this flying adventure in the first place, commented on the result more sagely: “This is the place where people come to break their personal records!”
vimeo.com/269101883 Cedars Equipment
SIGMA 10
Cedar at the take-off, on his way to his best performance.
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Jurassic coastline 24
Concern and fascination together – soaring the chalk cliffs, only the sea below.
#unitedkingdom #whitecliffs #roadtrip
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Jurassic coastline
Jurassic coastline Love at first sight
It was a calendar picture that had captivated photo grapher Adi Geisegger many years ago. The image remained with him until, at last, he had the subject in his own lens. Adi travelled to this object of desire with Melanie Weber and Englishman Jack Pimblett. The trio maximised the flying opportunities to view the chalk cliffs of the south English coast in the best light.
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Jurassic coastline 26
A dream come true: the World Heritage Jurassic coast close at hand.
This calendar photo fascinated me so much. I really wanted to go to this place and take the photograph for myself. Last summer we packed our gear and set off. Adi Geisegger
The white glows. It’s eye-catching, next to the blue, a bright, brilliant sea-blue. Then there’s the green. Not ordinary green, but luminous, strong green. Three colours, a perfect three-way contrast. Here we’re describing a calendar photo of the Jurassic coast of England. The snow-white, flawless steep cliffs cast their spell, bordered by the deep blue of the sea below and the lush green meadows on top. It’s no wonder that Adi Geisegger had been fascinated by the photo for so long. His desire to discover this landscape of colour contrast in the south of England by paraglider took on a life of its own.
It always rains in England! The Jurassic coast forms part of the southern English coastline and extends for about 150 km. Research showed that this coast can definitely be flown. Flying is generally confined to a small section, but Adi wanted more, he wanted to fly over those perfect sliced-off white cliffs. There where the chalk wall is most impressive – just like in the calendar picture that had impressed him so much. “When I told my long-term flying friend Melanie Weber about the idea she was not convinced: “The English weather is so unreliable. What if it only rains and we never get airborne?” “If you don’t try you can’t achieve anything”, was Adi’s response, and so the plans took shape. “By chance I got to know Jack Pimblett. The young, up-andcoming acro flyer was on the case straight away.” The three of them waited for a suitable weather window, and set off from Germany to England. When they got there the rain beat down on the car roof. The alleged weather window brought typical English weather instead. “Would Melanie be right?” Adi’s thoughts revolved around the last weather check – it said improving
Jurassic coastline 27
The three take off at the official site but are soon far away, flying towards the chalk cliffs and sea.
next morning. It just didn’t look like it at the time. “I hope the meteorologists aren’t wrong” – were Adi’s last thoughts before he fell fast asleep. The alarm went off early next morning. “As I awoke I listened, primed for the sound of rain, but there wasn’t any”, remembers Adi.
World Cultural Heritage site Less than two hours after the alarm had sounded they had their gliders laid out. The wind was perfect, ideal soaring conditions over the famous chalk cliffs. The Jurassic Coast was a thing of incredible beauty. Here, hanging in the lift band, they felt themselves more than privileged. ‘Glücklich’ describes it; happy combined with lucky is better: good fortune had rewarded them. The wish, created years ago by the calendar photo, had been granted.
About Jack Pimblett has flown since the age of three, when his father first took him up. Since then he has made it to the top ten in Acro World Cups, and has paraglided the world over. When not in the air he shares his experience through coaching and SIV training. Melanie Weber discovered paragliding seven years ago. As a Hike & Fly, paramotor and cross-country pilot she likes to explore new flying areas, and so found herself on this voyage of discovery.
“Again, I was presented with the perfect contrast between blue sea, white chalk, and green meadow. This time I marvelled at the scene with my own eyes, and took my own pictures.”
Adi Geisegger has been flying parag-
Equipment
liders and hang gliders since the early 1990s. Since then the photographer and filmmaker can frequently be found with his paramotor. EPSILON 9
SUCCESS 4
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Jurassic coastline 28
Flexibility pays off – a sunset flight with paramotors.
If you don’t try, you can‘t achieve anything. Adi Geisegger
Melanie, Jack and Adi took off on the normal launch, and quickly ventured far from it. The further away they got, the higher the sensitivity level. Top-landing was the only option. Below them was the sea, alongside them the steep cliff. “I was slightly concerned by the sense of exposure. At the same time it was unbelievably beautiful to be flying along these white cliffs. We were quite alone.” said Melanie. “I don’t know whether a pilot has ever flown for so long and so far along these chalk cliffs. I enjoyed every moment. It’s crazy, what nature can provide. It’s not for no reason that these gleaming white cliffs are a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site.” says Jack.
Extending the flying possibilities They landed in time for a second breakfast, and reflected on a wonderful soaring flight. They were delighted that the English weather had given them the opportunity to study the cliffs for so long and in such detail. In the evening they got another chance to take to the air. This time there was no wind, but fortunately the trio had brought their motors with them, so they made a sunset motor flight together. They enjoyed it, with no concerns about wind or thermals. Again they flew along the chalk cliffs, and now with motor assistance they felt more relaxed about the risk of going down, discovering the landscape afresh. The setting sun bathed the scene in a wash of red, yellow and orange. They landed at last light, and savoured a day of wonderful flying.
Jurassic coastline 29
We had ideal soaring conditions over the famous white cliffs. To see this colour-contrasted landscape with your own eyes was even better than the calendar picture. Adi Geisegger advance.ch /advancedadventures
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Early take-off is a must in the mountains – at sunrise the team have already been underway for 3 hours.
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Majestic soaring
#climbandfly #teamwork #pleasure
Majestic soaring Pooled experience at the Ortler
At 3,905m the “King Ortler” is the highest point of the Tyrol. Majestically, it dominates the Suldental. Fanny Dünßer, Sesi Mackrodt, Ben Liebermeister and Raphaela Haug set off to climb it, and then fly down by paraglider. A blend of skills, careful judgment, and luck combined to make this a very special day. Raphaela reports.
It does not always have to be extreme. It’s the small, unusual, extraordinary things which make life worth living.
Majestic soaring
Hike & Fly is my kind of paragliding, so I my thoughts already imagining the flying. jumped at the chance of flying from the “Relax; the ridge first, then the flight – one Ortler. Fanny and I don’t have a lot of para- thing at a time” says my inner voice. My gliding experience, but we are expert alpin- gaze wanders to the mountains around ists, so we will lead the ascent. The boys, us. And, yet again, I have to remind myhowever, have been flying for years; they self how much I enjoy being outside in the will be responsible for getting us down. open. The snow, the ice, the seracs; all of this has always fascinated me. For the first An audience with the King time I’m not bothered whether I fly or not. I We could see the hut from a long way enjoy the view, it’s only a few more metres off, left of the giant ice block and glacier to the top. When I get there I’m surroundbreakup from the Königsspitze and Zebru ed by beaming faces. What a day! peaks. In front of us is the Hintergrat, our goal for the morning. Once in the hut I men- Paragliding is pure joy tally go over the tour again: I feel respon- But I cannot really enjoy the summit expesible for the climb up. I rethink our time rience. Next – for me at least – will come schedule and decide it’s to be early to bed, the most difficult part of the day: the flight. early to rise for myself. There’s no doubt We rearrange our equipment, walk towards about the tension we feel: Fanny and I have the take-off spot. The closer we get, the plenty of respect for the flight down, the more I realise: the wind is perfect. My conboys are privately worried about the climb cern subsides, confidence builds. We lay up. Anyway, everything about this tour is a our wings out – a last compulsory selfie bit special for all of us. The alarm sounds and then: Clear for take-off. I need just two early next morning. It’s still pitch dark. We steps and I’m flying. I feel free, liberated, get up, pack our things, get a quick break- floating over the shattered icy world of the fast and set off. The lights of other moun- glacier. What a gift of nature. Truly majestic. taineers dance around us. We make good progress; for some sections we rope up, Fast-forward: the sun is shining on our many others we just climb. I am nervous, backs. Two hours ago we were standing
on the summit, we landed an hour ago. Now there’s a coffee and Apfelstrudel in front of me, with my extra portion of cream. I think about the last few hours. Today we achieved everything. My complete personal dream of paragliding – from the top of the mountain to the valley in a few minutes. And it’s also clear to me that it doesn’t always work out like this. We could still be struggling down somewhere, right now…
About
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Raphaela Haug
Raphaela Haug grew up in the Allgäu and began paragliding to save herself the tedium of walking downhill. Whether Ortler, Mt. Blanc or the local mountain – if you can take off, the glider’s in the rucksack. Sesi Mackrodt studied in Münich and works as a DHV test pilot. Whether it’s acro, cross country or speed riding he
The Ortler is a perfect launch spot, but whether an attempt will be successful is not certain.
feels at his best when in the air. Ben Liebermeister has flown for 20 years. At the beginning he was a keen cross country pilot, but since then usually has an acro wing in the pack, or sets off for some Hike&Fly. Fanny Dünßer grew up in the mountains. To save herself the climb down she has taken up Hike&Fly.
Equipment
PI 2
EASINESS 2
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#2
Fascinating light show 32
Evening soaring sessions especially have their charm in Norway.
#lofoten #skiandfly #auroraborealis
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Fascinating light show
Fascinating light show Ski and fly in Lofoten
Regi Batt and Tobias Dimmler toured the Norwegian Lofoten Islands. Far above the Arctic Circle this archipelago of islands reaches out into the North Sea. Their search for uncharted territory provided fabulous Ski & Fly and soaring sessions – an adventure in a unique monochromatic landscape.
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Fascinating light show 34
Incredible interplay of nature: fog, cloud and sunshine interchange by the second.
Fascinating light show 35
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Fascinating light show 36
The first metres of altitude are gained with skis, then it’s off to the sea under the paraglider.
Lofoten, Norway. One fjord follows another, many small mountainous islands, growing out of the sea. The weather changes by the second: strong wind pelts your face with ice and snow – then it’s flat calm. In an instant hidden rocks emerge from the haze, sunlight fights its way through the cloud layer and the landscape takes on its true shapes. Then, soon after, the fog closes in again. On clear nights you get to see the Northern Lights – delicate curtains of green light dancing and undulating across the heavens. These spectral apparitions light up the surroundings. This cosmic phenomenon, created by an interplay of charged solar particles and the earth’s atmosphere and magnetic field, also captured Regi and Tobi in its spell. “It is a surreal light show, fascinating and otherworldly in equal measure”, enthused Regi.
Skis and paraglider – the perfect combination Regi and Tobi awoke on the first morning to glorious sunshine, and the stunning contrast of white mountains against the blue sea. They got in their car and drove. The road meandered along the fjords, and around every bend a new and fantastic landscape revealed itself. They kept going until they saw a promising-looking peak, where they parked the car and set off upwards with skis and wings. They climbed steadily along forest tracks and through soft birch woodland towards the summit. To begin with the frosted landscape sparkled like sugar, then as they got higher the snow lay thicker under their skis. The view behind was fjords and groups of islands, separated by the shimmering blue sea.
The snow at the top was perfect. We’d made our way upwards and covered about half the height when the snow surface got worse, so we unpacked the wings and took off. Tobi Dimmler
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Fascinating light show
The Northern Lights take your breath away – delicate veils of green light waft and dance in the heavens.
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Fascinating light show 38
Ground-handling session in the last daylight – in a couple of hours the Aurora display will appear.
The views of mountains, fjords and sea are difficult to describe. They took our breath away, every time. To see this scenery from the air was just incredible. Regi Batt
Lonely flights Flexibility pays off Regi and Tobi were in luck. The normally Long hours of sun also have their downchangeable weather was showing its sta- side. The snow that was present at the ble side. Lofoten weather is basically dic- start of the trip progressively melted, givtated by wind direction. West wind means ing way to stones and grass. Eventually changeable, everything from heavy snow they were forced to swap their skis for hikto sunny intervals is possible. With the ing boots. Ski & Fly became Hike & Fly. wind between NE and SE you can expect “Less snow, however, meant more perfect cold, dry weather with many hours of sun. wind. We took off from the tops and enThe pair were able to take advantage of joyed some long soaring sessions. The evthis easterly situation, and enjoyed many er-changing landscape always fascinated unique tours, sometimes taking off from me,” enthused Tobi. summits, sometimes lower down depending on conditions. Usually they were alone. Sometimes they saw other ski tourists, but never another paraglider pilot.
Equipment
OMEGA X ALPS 2
PI 2
STRAPLESS
About Tobi Dimmler Tobi is a professional tandem pilot and photographer. He’s flown his paraglider the world over, capturing those special moments on camera. When he is not on the road the Swiss national lives and works in Interlaken. Regi Batt Regi has combined her Âpassion for endurance sports with flying since 2012. Whether touring the Alps, skiing or hiking, the paraglider usually goes along as well. Three years ago she made her hobby her job and now she Fascinating light show
works as a professional tandem pilot in Interlaken.
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Regi enjoys the scenery while strolling by the sea.
The pair will never forget the experiences of the journey.
Our paragliders really did brighten up the monochrome landscape. Tobi Dimmler
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Above the Glacier Sea 40
On the way to the Finsteraarhorn, one of the most remote 4000ers of the Alps.
#climbandfly #soaringextreme #onceinalifetime
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Above the Glacier Sea
Above the Glacier Sea Happiness in the mountains
The 4,274m high Finsteraarhorn towers majestically above a unique glacier world at the heart of the Swiss Alps, far from any traces of civilisation. During the final phase of their X-Alps preparations Chrigel Maurer, Patrick von Känel and Sepp Inniger grabbed an opportunity that doesn’t present itself every day. They were able to soar from ridge to ridge, making their way to the Finsteraarhorn, and then fly over the top. This is a story where spontaneity and some luck combine to make an unforgettable day’s flying.
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Above the Glacier Sea 42
At 8 in the morning the trio fly above the Swiss glacier sea at 4,400m – just incredible!
Above the Glacier Sea 43
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Above the Glacier Sea 44
The three enjoy a wonderful evening flight before dessert.
famous three Swiss Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau giants, but directly behind them in this remote glacier world, working their way upwards in the wind. To watch the sun slowly disappear behind the summits, land and return to the hut for dessert. A dream: a dream of any pilot…
This was the best flight of my piloting career – to date Sepp Inninger
Then it just happened – the dream. There was no planning, but suddenly the wind was on. The dream became reality, the moNo, it wasn’t planned to fly over the top of the Finsteraarhorn (4,273m), the high- ment seized. The three decided to head est peak of the Berner Oberland. Actually, out for a soaring session between main Chrigel wanted to make a mountain tour course and dessert. They laid out right next to the hut, took off and soared until to the Mönch (4,107m) with Patrick and the sun disappeared. “That was the nicest Sepp, then glide down to the valley from flight of my flying career so far”, said Sepp. this peak. This would be something nice to do immediately before the start of the 2019 “It wasn’t that long, but to be able to soar so high in the evening was really an indeX-Alps – collect some positive energy, tank up on power for the approaching race; sim- scribable feeling.” ply enjoy a great flight with friends. But it all It can be different… turned out differently. During dessert there was the weather check for the next day. Strong north east Happiness in the mountains wind. Too strong to take off from the Mönch The three took the last train to the (4,107m), and from the wrong direction anJungfraujoch, and hiked along to the yway. That ended the dream of a morning Mönch hut (3,650m). During supper they glide down to the valley. After a brief mojoked about how nice a sundowner flight ment of despondency, they came up with would be: for once not in front of the
Above the Glacier Sea 45
A landing out on the glacier sea could be fatal.
a new plan. “We decided to climb up to the Walcher ridge instead and fly north from there into the valley”, remembers Chrigel. They set out for the take-off at 6 the next morning. The first rays of sun were already visible. The sunlight still felt cold, but the cloudless blue sky and climbing yellow ball were encouraging. Anticipation of the flight built, and a second breakfast awaited way down below.
…from what you think Pull up, lift off, glide. Float down to the second breakfast – or perhaps not? It’s working already – we are climbing – and it’s working well! Within 12 hours of creating the new plan the pilots have to revise it again. The wind up here on this early morning is perfect. Without discussion, Chrigel, Patrick and Sepp head southwards along the Fiescherhorn group. Early morning soaring. They gain height. The sun makes its way further above the horizon, now sharing its heat. With the wind behind them their route high above the ridge takes them towards the Finsteraarhorn (4,274m). This is one of the most remote places in Switzerland.
A landing on the glacier below could be fatal. Not just because of the immensely deep and sometimes hidden crevasses between the ice blocks, but also the isolation. On foot it would take a whole day to reach the refuge hut (if you were so lucky), says Chrigel. Their current altitude quickly sweeps away such negative thoughts. They fly over the summit together. The cross on the top looks tiny, the individual blocks of the glacier no longer discernible. A single white ocean. The view over the Swiss mountain world makes the mind wander, dreaming, and then back to the altitude: 4,400 metres above sea level, at 7 in the morning. Incredible!
On foot it would take a whole day to reach the refuge hut at the edge of the glacier. Chrigel Maurer
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Above the Glacier Sea 46
They leave the hut early, and want to fly at first light.
Flying together, without expecting anything. An unbelievable flight. Patrick von Känel
In retrospect, Patrick was fascinated by the fact that, above all, “we were able to cruise without problem, quite unexpectedly, high over the Finsteraarhorn as if this was completely normal. For this incidental group of pilots, three friends without any expectations, to have been so randomly rewarded by the chance coming-together of place and weather was something rather special.” Sepp said: “The Finsteraarhorn flight certainly topped the previous evening’s delightful surprise. Difficult to believe! My two best flights, by far. A privilege to experience such a thing. Just pure enjoyment. Pure joy.”
Seize the moment The conclusion? “Today’s addiction to communication and technology means we often feel the need to plan and control every instant of time. But spontaneous decision-making, the ability to adapt instantly to circumstances, is even more important. Take spontaneous coincidences on board and enjoy them”, is Chrigel’s advice. From a risk-averse easy-gliding pilot’s point of view this flight was beyond superlative. An unplanned experience which no one can take away from you. The changing weather
was spontaneously accepted and made use of. Out with the planned, safety-guaranteed plan, and in with the new adventure. An adventure right here at home, in amongst these Swiss 4000m giants: lonely and impossibly impressive. Chrigel remembers similar situations during his previous six X-Alps exploits: “There are situations where you don’t understand what’s going on. But if it’s going up, it’s going up. Don’t debate too long whether it is thermal or dynamic. Adapt to the situation and don’t try to adapt it to suit yourself.”
About Chrigel Maurer A week after flying over the Finsteraarhorn the Eagle of Adelboden laid the foundation stone for his 6th successive X-Alps victory by landing on the Titlis turnpoint. With this spectacular and rare feat he once more demonstrated his superhuman instinct for alpine flying. Patrick von Känel The Frutigtaler is a qualified forestry manager and works at ADVANCE as a test pilot. He is also
The Omega XAlps wings glide majestically over the white landscape.
a successful competition and cross-country pilot. In 2019 Patrick also Above the Glacier Sea
took part in the X-Alps as the youngest competitor. By arriving in eighth position at the Monaco goal he has fulfilled one dream. Sepp Inniger Sepp is an ambitious mountaineer and paraglider pilot. He was Patrick von Känel’s supporter in the
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X-Alps 2019. Just a few weeks later he stood together with Patrick and Chrigel Maurer on the winners’ podium for the Eiger-Challenge in Grindelwald.
Film youtu.be/0yVChUVF0qk
Chrigel, Sepp and Patrick land in time for a second breakfast.
Equipment
OMEGA XALPS 3
LIGHTNESS XALPS 2019
Adapt to the situation and don’t try to adapt it to suit yourself. Chrigel Maurer
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#3
Dreams like hazelnuts 48
Tom and Mikael flew in places where no man has ever flown before.
#norway #volbiv #crosscountry
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Dreams like hazelnuts
Dreams like hazelnuts A vol-biv through the Norwegian wilderness
Squirrels store their hazelnuts in secret, and get them out at the right moment. Tom Salamonsen’s dream of bivouac flying in Norway was a bit like that. The tour was already planned in his head, the only thing missing was the right moment. July should be the time. Tom got his hazelnuts out and made his dream of flying through the Norwegian Femundsmarka National Park come true, along with Mikael Benjamin Ulstrup.
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Dreams like hazelnuts 50
Above Femundsmarka National Park, Tom fulfils his dream of bivouac flying in the remote wilderness.
Dreams like hazelnuts 51
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They were the first humans to explore this remote region by paraglider. Tom Salamonsen
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Dreams like hazelnuts
About
“We’d had a very hot summer; stable temperatures and lots of wind,” remembered Tom. Opportunities for thermal flying were in short supply, but for Trysil, a small village near the Femundsmarka National Park, the forecast looked more promising. It lies in south-east Norway, surrounded by mighty forests, the setting for Norwegian folk tales, a place on the edge of the world. Bears are not unusual, reindeer and elks the most common inhabitants. Setting up and taking off is tedious; hitchhiking back a nightmare. If you want to fly cross country here you should be sure of yourself. The two Norwegians wanted to find out for themselves, and decided to begin their bivouac adventure, far from civilisation. They laid out their wings and lifted off one after the other. Trysilfjellet is the name of this takeoff, right by the Trysil hamlet, and they floated away into the world of fairy stories.
Middle of nowhere Round and round circled the two Omega XAlps 3s into the sky. The higher they got the more extensive became the wilderness beneath them: as the distance from the ground increased, so the isolation became ever more tangible, somehow you could feel it. “We flew together, awestruck by the sight. The freedom a paraglider gives you is impossible to describe,” enthused Tom. They battled their way northwards along cloud streets, until, hours later, the bivouac clearing came into sight; a place where people are rarely seen – the middle of nowhere. The pair landed in a mosaic of mossy marshland, variously coloured delicate green, rich brown, and deep blue; a
landscape of such beauty that words are inadequate. “A sea of colour bid us welcome, and we clearly felt the warmth of the sun. To the west lay the Femunden lake – the landscape beyond was perfectly mirrored in its calm and clear water”, remembers Tom. Minute by minute it got gently colder until finally – very slowly – the yellow globe disappeared behind the horizon.
Infinite lightness of the moment Naturally, they would have liked to have stayed longer, to have further enjoyed the wilderness, the stillness of the morning. But the wind was due to freshen up during the day. The risk of not being able to take off was too high – the distance to the next road too far. Tom and Mikael set off, flying further to the north. Time was no longer a factor, only living in the moment mattered. Both were enraptured by this wilderness and the prospect of exploring it ever further with the lightness of a paraglider: to soar through the air for ever. Back to earth Nature had other plans for them, however. While the two men were crossing the inlet to the Femunden lake, the northern boundary of the National Park, the wind got steadily stronger. Like a wonderful dream from which one reluctantly awakes, both pilots were quietly compelled to return to terra firma. Tom and Mikael looked at each other, filled with a sense of utter satisfaction. Does the squirrel feel the same when he eats his hazelnuts?
Mikael and Tom started paragliding as teenagers. They are among the best XC pilots in Norway – together they have won the Norwegian XC league 10 times and set Norwegian records. When they are not doing that, they love flying with vol-biv equipment in unknown terrain, always looking for adventure.
Film vimeo.com /353141763 Equipment
OMEGA X ALPS 3
LIGHTNESS 3
Dreams like hazelnuts 53
The pair found this wonderful bivouac site beforehand.
After landing Tom and Mikael walk up a hill – tomorrow’s take-off place.
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#3
There are few mountains that create such a scenic contrast as Elbrus.
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Time out
#elbrus #climbandfly #topofeurope
Time out Climb & Fly between professional commitments It’s a subject of debate – whether Elbrus (5,642 m) in the Caucasus is the highest peak in Europe or not. The extinct volcano actually has two summits – the west peak (5,642 m) and the eastern one (5,621 m). Thomas Lämmle has regularly worked as a mountain guide on Elbrus. Last year, between his professional commitments on the mountain, he managed to launch from both peaks. This only made the experienced high-altitude climber hunger for more.
About Thomas Lämmle is one of the most successful German high altitude mountaineers, among other things he climbed ten 8000m peaks without additional oxygen. He discovered his passion for paragliding over 30 years ago. Especially the combination of high altitude mountaineering and flying
June 2019. “I was guiding a group. We above – he had been down there not even had successfully climbed the north side of two hours ago. His gaze wandered away the mountain and it had taken less time into the distance, to base camp at 2,500 m. than expected, so we had our reserve day He landed there safe and sound less than to spare. I used this to make a solo push 30 minutes later. from the base camp at 2,500 metres to climb to the east summit of Elbrus – an- Wanting more other personal adventure” reports Thomas. September 2019. For another guiding This time I reached the east summit just be- tour, Thomas went to the highest mounfore 6 am. The sun was already up, sup- tain in Africa, Kilimanjaro (5,895 m). Again plying the first warmth of the day. To be up he managed to fit in some personal time here all by yourself was something really and made a flight from the top. Two of the nice. Thomas did not wait around for long, Seven Summits with the paraglider within but laid out his wing and took off. Soon af- a few months. What’s going to be next? terwards he had landed at the morning’s “To fly from an 8000er; that would be crazy! departure point. The environmental con- Let’s see what the future brings,” said the trast could not have been greater. From a inspired mountaineer. bleak snowy peak to soft green grass – in 25 minutes.
PI 2
EASINESS
Clear for take-off: flight back to base camp.
To take off from the top, then to fly away from the snow and land on the soft grass far below was something really special. 25 minutes‘ flying time instead of six hours‘ tedious climb down! Thomas Lämmle
Alone on the summit: and the wind is perfect.
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Equipment
A second helping July 2019. Thomas was back in the Cauca sus for work. He still had a score to settle, unfinished business – a flight from the west summit. He started out early, wanting to be on the top at sun-up. The climb up was laborious. The higher he climbed, the thinner the air. He felt seriously short of breath, but the wind whistled in Thomas’ ears. Would it be a different story on the west summit? When he got to the top a weak south-east wind was blowing. “When I realised that I could take off I could not stop a wide smile from taking over my face,” enthused Thomas. Here on the top, at 5,642 metres, it persisted until he took off and his feet exchanged snow for air. He had to run fast. Slowly he floated out into the valley, and looked at his climbing route from
Time out
fascinates him. For 2020 he is planning a climb&fly in the Himalayas.
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Forgotten coasts
#newzealand #explore #roadtrip
Forgotten coasts Paragliding in the southern hemisphere
When Captain James Cook landed in New Zealand in 1769 he couldn’t make himself heard for the noise of the birds. New Zealand was called Bird Island after that. Felix WÜlk and Roman Berner made a road trip to the Pacific coasts of the southern hemisphere, to find something out about air on the stormy side.
Forgotten coasts 57 Te Waewae Bay – a forgotten piece of coast in New Zealand.
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Forgotten coasts 58
Sandy Mount – it’s going up directly above the sea.
Forgotten coasts 59
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Forgotten coasts 60
New Zealand fulfils the flyer’s dream – when you can get into the air.
The umbilical centre of life is the pub in desolate Orepuki. Here, the slowed-down world turns around a small TV screen, a billiard table and the beer tap. Felix Wölk
Silently, wrapped up in his thoughts, Alexander Tups gazes over the dripping roofs of Dunedin. His eyes twinkle. The amateur meteorologist knows that there is no lasting depression over the South island. “Tomorrow Te Waewae Bay will work, you have to leave today”, he interprets from the downpour over the Otago peninsula. Alexander, himself a pilot, had granted us our first flight in this region two days ago, in the raw South New Zealand climate. A storm-ridden disturbance had come to a halt against the west side of the 3,800 metre high New Zealand Alps. On the east coast a giant lee rotor rotated, bringing north east wind – an enormous eddy of air had developed. Supported by the thermal sea breeze a sturdy upwind developed at Sandy Mount. For three fantastic hours we frolicked over a picturesque island landscape. Then, shortly afterwards, a Föhnstorm was uprooting trees.
About Felix Wölk is a paraglider and hang glider pilot, parachutist and mountain sportsman of the old school. For two decades he has enjoyed a worldwide reputation as a celebrated paragliding photographer. Roman Berner grew up in Switzerland and has paraglided since he was 18 – always in search of new adventures. The New Zealand journey will long remain a vivid memory for him.
Felix enjoys the sunshine while ground-handling at Sandy Mount.
In the lee of a straw bale In the hope of a flight we spent the night in the back of the Toyota. Our well-used vehicle rocked and heaved in the wind like a dinghy on the high seas. As day broke we stubbornly followed the cast-iron rules
Forgotten coasts
of flying: when things look bad prepare, if good take off. In the 50km/h wind we looked for a take-off spot, and were in luck. We waited in the lee of a straw bale. The Antarctic breeze is cold and strangely milky. It wraps the land like an icy silk cloth, soaking up colour and contrast.
A New Zealand Jewel At 2:30 that afternoon the white horse density on the sea reduced. The wind slowly turned south west. The window opened, revealing the pearl that could crumble to dust at any moment. We took off and found ourselves in a sub-Antarctic playground in the sky. The Te Waewae Bay coastline carried our wings for kilometres; beach thermal assistance, soft as butter, joined in. We rode the southerly breeze for hours at the 46 degree south parallel. We felt like birdmen: free, weightless and privileged. Do the birds feel the same sense of joy? James Cook, anyway, must have wondered the same in 1769.
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Raw, Wild, Isolated The Toyota Legacy’s windscreen wipers bravely shovelled water off our windscreen for three hours non-stop. Our goal was Te Waewae Bay on the extreme south coast of New Zealand. This might as well be the end of the world. Only a few farmers live here. They plant rows of trees as windbreaks to protect the sheep. The massive conifers grow in curved arcs under the influence of a permanent gale. Sometimes these give up the fight, shatter and fall like tin soldiers in the fight against the forces of nature. The Pacific has eaten its way greedily into this country, and a 15-kilometre cliff of compressed sand has developed, shaped like the break-up of a calving glacier. Te Waewae Bay is little known among paraglider pilots. Too windy, weather too unpredictable, the neighbouring town of Orepuki too forlorn. An almost forgotten coast in the southern hemisphere.
Equipment
The flying window opened, revealing a pearl. We enjoyed every moment in the air. EPSILON 9
SUCCESS 4
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62
Deep in the Caucasus
#caucasus #volbiv #notasplanned
Deep in the Caucasus Bivouac flying cannot be planned
Arrested by the border police, cared for by shepherds and cruelly swept earthwards by the wind: Robert Blum and Andi Egger found out how rugged, lonely and challenging a volbiv adventure in the Caucasus can be. More than once the two Germans reached their limits in Georgia when wind and weather tore up their original plans. And this, despite the fact that the two were old hands at vol-biv who had already pioneered a number of completely new routes in exotic countries.
Deep in the Caucasus 63 The landscape is very diverse in the Caucasus, offering everything from green meadows to steep glaciers.
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Deep in the Caucasus 64
Ponchos offer perfect protection from the cold and wet.
No flying in Russia On foot, with glider and tent: from the Black Sea to the Caspian Sea, 1,500 kilome Robert and Andi had tried to arrange some sort of authorisation in advance for tres along the Caucasus. That had been Robert’s dream for ten years. Political in- the Russian part – without success. The original plan, to fly from the Black Sea to stability had prevented such a project from happening or a long time, so in the mean- the Caspian Sea, was not allowed on the time Robert came up with a vol-biv chal- Russian side. They had to replan and delenge with Andi. The pair had opened spec- cided for a shorter, 800-kilometre trip tacular routes in the high Atlas in Morocco, through Georgia and Azerbaijan. and flown in the Himalayas. Now the time had come to put the Caucasus plan into “We flew along 5,000m mountains past numerous glaciers. The terrain was extremely action. impressive. After six hours’ flying we managed 110 kilometres. But the weather was “In August 2019 we arrived at Kutaissi in the not on our side. It kept on raining and we middle of the night. A kind priest took us to had to look for shelter. With some luck we the town at dawn – our first contact with found a small cave.” Georgia and already we were impressed by the people’s helpfulness. In an unbelievably hot bus we continued to Zagerie. Plan, replan, start again Over and over Robert and Andi were We sat on rice sacks like the locals. We thwarted by the weather. More than once climbed on foot to a 2,000m take-off where we planned to begin the bivouac adventure. they returned by bus to the capital, Tiflis. Their dream of a west-to-east crossing of Our shoulders ached and the sweat ran”. the Caucasus had to be abandoned, so they replanned their trip, and decided to cover as much of Georgia as they could by vol-biv in the time remaining. A zig-zag route through the country emerged. They hitch-hiked to the Kakheti region in the east
Deep in the Caucasus 65
Andi and Robert use a weather window to take to the air.
of the country, and managed to get from the low hills to the high mountains by foot and glider. “When we got into the air again the sun was shining nicely on the western slopes, but the clouds above did not bode well for this route. Sink punished us without mercy and washed us down 1,500 metres. The ravine got ever closer – as did the trees. We landed on a rocky slope. Fortunately we were both OK.�
The hospitality is overwhelming, although the locals themselves do not have much for themselves, everything is shared.
It was always raining and we had to look for shelter, sometimes in a cave, sometimes under our ponchos. Time spent in the air was limited. Robert Blum
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Sink caught us and showed no mercy: we were washed down 1,500 metres. The ravine came closer and closer, so did the trees.
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Deep in the Caucasus
Robert Blum
Alone in the wilderness The pair were permanently and totally isolated as they travelled. They had their food and water – up to 5 litres per person per day – with them. They mostly slept in the tent, sometimes in caves. Now and again they met shepherds, and once again experienced the overwhelming hospitality of the wild. Here they were given cheese, vegetables, stew and firewater; even though the nomads have little for themselves. They flew whenever possible. Sometimes they were on foot for days on end, because of the constant rain.
A point of honour Wind and weather cannot be planned. Robert and Andi could not complete the planned route from west to east in one trip, but the adventure factor on their zig-zag trip through Georgia was all the greater. It‘s a matter of honour that the two passed on their experiences to another German expedition who wanted to tackle the same project practically at the same time. They were finally able to realize part of Robert‘s dream, having better luck with the weather. But – thanks to the information from Robert and Andi – in the opposite direction.
„It stops, we glide away, along a long valley to the north – towards Russia. We often have to fly through thick cloud, steering by compass in the whiteout. Suddenly a hut emerges. Andi lands first, and the locals immediately hand him over to the border police. They want to see our authorisation. Authorisation? We don’t have any. So, first hide your passports and come with me. After two hours in the hut we get our authorisation, and can spend a week in the Russian border area. We are in luck.“
When bivouac flying you never know what’s coming next. This was a wide river without a bridge.
Deep in the Caucasus
Robert and Andi fly across the glacier. A landing here can have serious consequeces.
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About Robert Blum was one of the first ÂGerman pilots. He won the German XC championship in 2013 and holds the German FAI triangle record at 287km. He loves to travel to Âforeign parts with his paraglider in search of uncharted territory. Andi Egger is mostly to be found with his hike & fly / vol-biv equipment. Paragliding has been his regular lifestyle for 20 years.
Film Blue sky is a rare sight during the expedition: all the more reason to enjoy it.
youtu.be/5KVoZsQGl9Y Equipment
XI
LIGHTNESS 3
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Publishing Details
Publishing Details
Publisher: ADVANCE Thun AG, Uttigenstrasse 87, 3600 Thun, Switzerland Idea & concept: Simon Campiche Editing: Raphaela Haug Layout: Bänz Erb Computer graphics: Mark Oertig Coordination: Tobias Rusterholz Translation: Mike Riley Proofreading: Charlotte King Title picture: Martin Beaujouan Get inspired | Picture: Tobi Dimmler All or none | Text: Martin Beaujouan, Edith Rayner | Pictures: Martin Beaujouan Into the Eclipse | Text: Edith Rayner | Pictures: Alfred Jürgen Westermeyer Making the impossible possible | Text: Raphaela Haug | Pictures: Aaron Durogati Chasing 100 miles | Text: Edith Rayner | Pictures: Nick Greece, Cedar Wright Jurassic coastline | Text: Raphaela Haug | Pictures: Adi Geisegger Majestic soaring | Text: Raphaela Haug | Pictures: Sesi Mackrodth, Raphaela Haug Fascinating light show | Text: Raphaela Haug | Pictures: Tobi Dimmler Above the glacier sea | Text: Bruno Petroni, Raphaela Haug | Pictures: Sepp Inniger Dreams like hazelnuts | Text: Tom Salamonsen, Raphaela Haug Pictures: Tom Salamonsen, Mikael Benjamin Ulstrup Time out | Text: Raphaela Haug | Pictures: Thomas Lämmle Forgotten coasts | Text: Felix Wölk, Raphaela Haug | Pictures: Felix Wölk Deep in the Caucasus | Text: Edith Rayner, Simon Campiche Pictures: Robert Blum, Andy Egger Spring 2020 © ADVANCE
advance.ch /advancedadventures
advance.ch /advancedadventures
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