ISSUE 43 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM
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WINTER IN PAKISTAN: FOR THE LOVE OF CLIMBING
Ian Overton is (I think) the only American to attempt to climb Pakistan’s “Killer Mountain” Nanga Parbat in winter. When discussing it later he commented, “I can’t say they sent the best or the brightest, but they sent somebody.” One from the archives, this episode of For the Love of Climbing gives refreshing space to the reality of alpinism and winter climbing: not every attempt leads to a summit; it’s important to know your limits; and, of course, it’s always best to go with a strong support crew.
Content warning: This podcast discusses PTSD, physical and mental trauma.
Over 45 minutes, Ian Overton shares his journey as a climber, and the seemingly random and fortuitous connections and events that led to him attempting this notoriously challenging adventure. With disarming honesty, he details a borderline slapstick series of unfortunate events that go from bad to worse. Starting with a bad
omen in the form of a dead goat before they’ve even reached the mountain, Ian endures an avalanche-driven descent, and finally avoids jail by pretending to be a doctor (not entirely baseless, given his EMT training). The end sees not a summit, but a need to abandon the attempt altogether. Speaking about the impact of the journey on his physical and mental health, Ian details navigating PTSD upon his return to “real life”. There is a humbling openness to his story, validating that even if you’re doing something you love, it can be hard and it can be traumatic. And it can challenge and change you both during and long after your experience. Available online at Fortheloveofclimbing.com
Watch THE NUTCRACKER: MATT CORNELL & CONRAD ANKER The visually stunning Winter Dance Wall in Montana’s Hyalite Canyon is one that would tempt any eager ice-climber. In this film, its ethereal expanse sets the stage for a spectacular ascent. The Nutcracker follows Matt Cornell as he attempts the first solo climb up the titular route, established by co-star Conrad Anker. The film highlights how Cornell takes the time to connect with the area, immersing himself in the ecosystem and learning to work alongside the mountain and its inhabitants. The goat cameos offer delightful comic relief. More than a highlight reel to the attempt, the film explores the history of the area, in terms of both climbing and the natural world. There is homage to Anker’s late friend Alex Lowe whose first ascents
sparked a legendary legacy. Anker doesn’t shy away from sharing the emotional weight that being in the area and supporting this climb has for him.
next thing to test his limits. The gravity of the attempt isn’t lost on him, with constant references to his own mortality and mental state.
We often wonder what exactly it is that drives climbers to attempt extraordinary exploits like this one, and this is something a number of characters consider throughout the film. For Cornell, it’s the process of finding the
Spoiler alert: you never actually see Cornell send it. We’re just told the date it happened. He kept it to himself when he did it, and I think that’s kinda nice. Available on YouTube.
WINTER 2023 15
