VOL.1 ISSUE 1
afi MAG
solo Photo: Chris Conway Model: Arielle Fox (Dare Models) Hair & Make-up: Sarah Hunston Location: Plymouth, Devon, UK
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editor's Note
Welcome to the debut issue of Afi magazine. Let us begin by telling you how it all started… Afi was started by 3 good friends one summer night in August 2016. Each of them was from very different backgrounds in their walks of life. One thing in common is that they all loved to create. As they embarked on the journey of photography, they became drawn to the mysteries of fashion photography; A genre that has almost no rules and limits to its creativity. Photos were no longer static, but instead, they all tell a story, about life, emotions and our generation. Afi is translated from the greek word “αφή” meaning feel. We choose this word “feel” because it can relate to so many contexts in fashion photography. Clothing can makes us feel elegant, fun, sexy, cool, relaxed... We physically feel the clothes we wear, but we also choose our outfits based on how we feel emotionally. Photography captures these expressions. Fashion editorials creatively express certain feelings toward the fashion and beauty captured. We want Afi to be a bridge for photographers new to fashion photography to the world of the elite and experienced. In each issue, we will showcase intriguing work from photographers around the world and feature someone that is involved in the production of fashion images; from photographers, models, makeup artists, hair stylists, designers, assistants to retouchers and more. Everyone is born with creativity, it is just the way we express these. It can also be learnt and developed. We hope Afi will give you that spark of inspiration and imagination. We believe in your creativity, so show us! Anything is achievable. Afi magazine is dedicated to showcase your work across the globe, and for that, we will make it freely accessible for their readers worldwide. We will kick off this amazing journey together into the world of fashion photography with this debut issue. We are really exciting about the times ahead of us. Do make sure you join us on our social media to get the latest updates. Stay creative! Conrad Lee (Editor-In-Chief) and Afi team afi 3
Contents VOL.1 ISSUE 1
EDITORIALS “Fall For Elegance” by Conrad Lee P.12 “Libera” by Dmitrij Vasilenko P.28 “The Endless Fall” by Natacha Van P.34 “A Spoken Account” by Meital Netzer-Israel P.50 “Eclectic Thread” by Stipe Filipovic P.64 “High Tides” by Joshua.W.Parkinson P.72 “Disquietude” by Eiya Miura P.78
INTERVIEWS Fashion Brand - IA London P.18 Makeup Artist - Bryanna-Angel Allen P.44 Fashion House Director - Nomy Khan p.56
EVENTS Kasoska Fashion Show 2016 p.58
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solo Photo: Chris Conway Model: Arielle Fox (Dare Models) Hair & Make-up: Sarah Hunston Location: Plymouth, Devon, UK
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Contributors VOL.1 ISSUE 1
COVER PHOTO PHOTO: Conrad Lee MODEL: Gabriella Leonardi STYLIST: Stef Pitman HAIR & MAKE UP: Bryanna-Angel Allen CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Rimante Wilkin
EDITORIALS | SOLO IMAGES Conrad Lee, Dmitrij Vasilenko, Natacha Van, Meital Netzer-Israel, Joshua.W.Parkinson, Stipe Filipovic, Eiya Miura, Darin Wayne, Christian Schneider, Chris Conway, Marcel Ehrhardt, Tim Copsey
INTERVIEW FEATURES Ira Avezov (IA London), Bryanna-Angel Allen (Kiss and Makeup Studio), Nomy Khan (Koaska Fashion House)
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Copyright Š. All rights reserved. No content within this publication is to be reproduced in any form without explicit written permission from afi magazine. Opinions and views of contributors are their own and not necessarily those of the publishers. Afi magazine reserves the right to edit any submitted material if required and is not liable for any errors/omissions.
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W & W
WARP & WEFT STYLING 68a George Street, Old Town Hastings, TN24 4EE. UK 01424 437 180 leidanassirpour@hotmail.com
www.warpandweftstyling.com
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solo Photo: Christian Schneider (haltdieklappe Filmproduktion) Model: Avanya Tonks
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Fall for elegance
Photo: Conrad Lee Model: Gabriella Leonardi Hair & Makeup: Bryanna-Angel Allen Creative director: Rimante Wilkin Stylist: Stef Pitman www.bit.do/conradleephotography Hastings, UK
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Champagne Ruched Waist Fit and Flare Dress - JS Collections Aw16
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Purple Silky strappy maxi dress - Sarah Ashcroft X Missguided
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Black Wrap Dress - Michael Kors | Black Leather Obi Waist Belt - ASOS | Black Floppy Brim Hat - Levi’s
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image:“White Marilyn�. Surface Design and Creative Direction by IA LONDON. All images used are for illustrative purposes only
Interview Feature
Image: Courtesy of IA London
IA LONDON is a luxury brand influenced by eccentric mix of Japanese and
Western styles. This brand was established in 2015 by its creator Ira Avezov who will tell us more about it. Your style is very authentic: mix of Japanese and Western aesthetics. What inspired you?
and strategical visions. Enjoying freedom in my past positions, I still could not accommodate it all.
As a design student, I was lucky to study under Prof. Arthur Goodrich. Arthur pointed out the beauty of clean, undecorated concepts. A few years later, I came across same type of thinking in Japanese classical literature, particularly in Haiku. Basho’s poetry is an apparent evidence of how one can say so much by saying so little. I try to learn to think like Japanese. It is a long road, and I am still in the very beginning.
Tell us about a typical day of yours?
Could you tell us more about a project which you consider to be the most significant in your career? Building IA LONDON is my most significant project so far, it give me all the freedom I ever wanted in the creative and business side. I learn something new everyday, i grow up with my project and THAT makes it significant. IA London was found by you. Could you tell us briefly how did start it? I have an eclectic set of interests, that’s covers not only creative, but also analytic
Therefore, once enough experience was gained, my own design company’s establishment was just a natural development.
I work mostly during the night, It is when I am the most productive, the silence inspires me. Once I am done, i take some rest and start my day with a black americano at the coffee next door. I keep my afternoon to work on the current projects or meet with some clients. What drives you every day? What is your Muse, what inspires you? Giving design talks, I often asked the audience to complete the sentence “being a designer is _____ because you can do it anywhere, anytime.”, with “easy” or “hard” as a choice. Creativity is an on-running application which connects different pieces of information, all the time. You can’t shut it down. If these are good news, or bad - it is up to you.
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Interview Feature In social media website Linkedin you mentioned that you’re a design addict. Are there any other ‘addictions’ you have in your life that couldn’t imagine your life without? “Macbeth”. Coffee. Being on the road. What is your favourite piece of work you’ve done in the last year? Definitely Macbeth... ! After I have to admit that it is difficult to favour own work for more than 5 minutes. We offers for now 3 different collections and each are interesting ideas, I suppose. You can discover our design on the website www.ialondon.com. I think I would be curious to know what is your favourite one. Where do you see yourself in 5 years’ time? I want to build a unique design organism, combining experience with a slight madness of the creative start-up. In design, we plan to collaborate with fashion, interior, fine dining and lifestyle high-end brands. Public spaces is a “to do” in IA LONDON Creative Direction department, can be anything from “Thirty-Six views of Anna Cleveland” for Blakes London hotel, to “50 Shades of Lobster” series of giant paintings for “Sketch London”.
image: “Little China Girl” courtesy of IA London
I also hope that the Mayor of London will let us grow Japanese Garden in Piccadilly Circus for a few nights imagine the “Camellia” slowly growing on the giant screen! Everybody could simply watch and enjoy, it will be unforgettable. How do you see fashion in ten years’ time? Best way to predict the future is to create it, and fashion people are so amazingly talented.
IA LONDON Website: ialondon.com Instagram: @ia_london
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image: “Pomegrenade” courtesy of IA London
Image: “Little China Girl” courtesy of IA London
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image: “Double” courtesy of IA London
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Image: “Girl With A Pearl” courtesy of IA London
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www.crystaldaiva.com
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solo
Photo: Marcel A Vie [Zeitfenster] | Model: Mary Von Westphalen | HMUA: Julia Wild | Location: Hackerbrucke, Munich
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solo
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Photo: Marcel A Vie [Zeitfenster] | Model: Miriam Neumaier | HMUA: Julia Sikorski | Location: Munich Museum
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Photo:Tim Copsey | Model:Cerys Wrigley-Moss | HMUA:Nati Endale | Desginer:Chio Ohajuru | Stylist: Karen Wrigley-Moss
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Libera Photo: Dmitrij Vasilenko Model: Maria Wild Designer: Martika Parsley Assistant: Jonathan Wilson
www.dmitrij.co.uk Falmouth, UK
Martika Parsley Designer graduate collection 2016
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The Endless
FALL Photo: Natacha Van | Model: Sophia Moriarty | Hair & Make-up: Nami Kida | Designer & Stylist: Zita Ng
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Interview Feature
MAKEUP ARTIST Bryanna-Angel Allen Owner of Kiss and Makeup Studio
With over 17 years of makeup experience, Bryanna-Angel Allen is one of the most highly accredited media makeup artists in the UK. Afi magazine had the opportunity to follow her and her team in action, and hear her story at the Kaoska Fashion show during London Fashion Week 2016.
Photos by Conrad Lee
You are a media trained makeup artist, what does that mean and how is it different from the “usual� make up? Media makeup is a different quality and skill to a normal MUA; Media makeup artists have to understand lighting, cameras, high definition, colour and grey scales... light, motion variation, and extreme heat. In media makeup, we use more pigmented heavier products and apply them in a more seamless fashion setting it at all times. Perfection is a must as our work is magnified on greater levels from movie screens to billboards... We research for period work to be fully accurate, design makeups for script work, and for fashion we have to be aware of the type of lighting and lenses being used. Our kits are of high value and mostly high definition (HD). We are using up to 300 brushes depending on the amount of faces and applications. An extensive knowledge of products and colours is always a requirement. How do you train as a media makeup artist?
Bryanna and model Bhasha Mukherjee at Kaoska Fashion show backstage
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Usually a course in basic MUA course is required for further college or university in media makeup. Media makeup goes from level 1-6 including full media makeup, Sfx (special effects), airbrushing, hairdressing, barbery, wig making, dressing and blocking, facial hair making/grooming, making and designing also applying prosthetics, camera work, lighting, hygiene, management and clerical. There are some colleges that teach basics of these but normally for insurance purposes and more detailed learning the media makeup stage schools are better and more equipped for higher qualifications.
Interview Feature What do you love most about makeup?
Left: Rose Fisher, Right Bryanna-Angel Allen
I love how dramatically you can change someone’s appearance. What is your proudest moment in your career? Getting my degree was probably one of my proudest moments, because it gave professional recognition for my skills. There was a big exam at the end and I was 1 score away from max score which I was very proud of. Why did you start Kiss and Makeup Studio? I started Kiss and Makeup Studio 3 years ago wanting to provide a base for teaching and applying media makeup, high end products, equipment and training methods.
MUA Katie Johnson and model Julie Dumont
What would you consider to be your signature look? My signature look is a clean and crisp smokey eye: the type of seamless makeup that blends in nicely together. You were quite involved in the London Fashion Week 2016. What was your role in it? I was the key media MUA, designing the makeups for multiple catwalks. I was also supplying, and combining makeup teams for multiple shows, assisting castings of models for certain designed looks, press/media interviews etc. You were the head of makeup for the Kaoska Fashion Show 2016 during London Fashion week. What preparation did you have to do? I had to design the makeups, supply a full high end team and products, assist in back of set, castings, lighting information, celebrity endorsement, press coverage, timetables etc. Who is in your team? My personal team consists of myself and 3 media MUAs: Emma Freeman, Rose Fisher, Katie Johnson; as well as 2 junior MUAs Emma Taylor and Claire Smith.
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What is your favourite brand of make-up to use? Media makeup is so very different to normal makeup, normally thicker and more costly but getting a more high definition result. I regularly use: Screen face and Charles Fox Kryolan products mostly for HD makeup; I also use Anastasia Beverly Hills contours; Dose of Colour and Charlotte Tilbury for lips. Which 3 tools and products in your makeup kit that you can’t do without? Tools: blending brush, beauty blender, liner brush. Products: Kryolan translucent setting powder, Charlotte Tilbury highlighter, Dose of Colour lipsticks. What is the most difficult makeup to do in your opinion? Monochrome make up I would think is the hardest, as you have to envision all the colours in black and white and grey scales. Marilyn Monroe is also quite difficult because there are hidden shadow lines that created illusions that many people would not realise. Old-age makeup (i.e. making someone look old) also requires a lot of precision and thought into placements of lines, highlight and shadows. But once you master these makeups, everything else becomes pretty standard. What is your most memorable experience whilst doing makeup? My film and fashion work abroad stands out the most, because of the freedom of my work; but if I had to pick an event, it was an actress going into labour whilst applying her makeup... She insisted I completed her makeup and her scene so that show can be continued. Lucky enough her role was short and she was able to attend hospital. She had a beautiful baby girl whom I’m now godmother to. You also do special effects make up for filming, what is the craziest prosthetic you had to make? A full transgender prosthetic for a film, featuring a ladyboy with a twist. It required full casting, making and applying the prosthetic pieces on a female to look transgender. I regularly apply things such as bullet wound, axes in heads, open surgery, cuts, knife wounds and acid burns on a regular selection of horror makeups and applications.
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MUA Rose Fisher at Kaoska Fashion show backstage
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The Kaoska Fashion Show was a success with you running the make-up backstage. How do you feel it went with you team? My team were fast and skilled paying attention to the information given and applying flawlessly.. Media makeup has to be about team work and the girls worked amazingly together... taking note of what the other was doing, using and most of all looking out for each other. I’m very proud of the professionalism of my girls.
MUA Katie Johnson and model Maria Sergejeva
What advice would you give to new makeup artists who want to get into the fashion industry? My advice is to join a media makeup stage school. Learn your skills fully and products, but also learn contracts and behind the scenes work. Get handson experience via the stage school, making sure you get active training placement; start shows with students and local designers to build your knowledge, experience and portfolio, but most of all enjoy it, your passion reflects in your work.
MUA Emma Freeman and model Jessica Evans
Kiss and Makeup Studio
Model Cerys Wrigley-Moss
Model Bhasha Mukherjee
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A SPOKEN ACCOUNT
Photo: Meital Netzer-Israel Models: Amanda Noelle, Liz Mariz, Sam Obrigewitsch Hair & Make-up: Amy Maetche Alberta, Canada 50 afi
Model: Sam Obrigewitsch
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Model: Sam Obrigewitsch
Model: Liz Mariz
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solo Photo: Darin Wayne Model: Tessa Greiner (Numa Models) Hair | Make-up: Deonna Fetzko Designer: Melany Rowe
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Interview Feature
Fashion House Director Nomy Khan
CEO of Kaoska Fashion House Young entrepreneur and CEO of Kaoska Fashion House, Nomy Khan is the mastermind behind a global fashion platform for established and upcoming fashion creatives. Afi magazine went to his fashion show during London Fashion Week and shares his story.
What is the Kaoska fashion house? Kaoska Fashion House UK is an organization that focuses on providing opportunities for upcoming fashion designers students and creatives to explore their interest in fashion, while showcasing their artistic talents in our exclusive fashion shows. We bring together key industry professionals to provide a platform for raising talents. What does Kaoska mean? Kaoska comes from Kaos... and bringing changes in Fashion industry by unique strategic ways. When and why did you start Kaoska? Kaoska was found and launched in 2013, with an aim to provide opportunities for young and upcoming creative talents throughout the globe. I graduated with a degree in International Business and have always been interested in fashion. I trained as an actor and have modelled for numerous campaigns including JAGUAR, Topman and Samsung. I understand the industry and wanted to use my experience to help new comers. Since we started, we have supported several fashion colleges such as Royal College of Arts, London College of Fashion and Brighton University etc, and provided their students a platform to network and show off their talents to the industry. Any proud moments during your time as CEO at Kaoska? My favourite moments are when I raise fund for international charities and support and contribute them by success of the events. In 2015, our fashion show supported the children’s charity “Variety” helping children with disabilities, sickness and those that are socially disadvantaged. This year, we are showing our support to Cancer Research UK. The Kasoska Fashion show this year held during the London Fashion Week was a huge success, raising money for Cancer Research UK. Who were your sidekicks at the show?
Left: CEO of Kaosaka Fashion House, Nomy Kahn at Kaoska Fashion show
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It’s all team work and we worked very hard to make this event successful. I am very much thankful to the all team supported Kaoska fashion show 2016. The Head of Event Jay Hofman along with his creative team of coordinators did an amazing job to make the event run smoothly. We also had excellent catwalk coaching at the show by international choreographers Evrin Bashak and Barbod Mayriz. The designers for this years’ show Tony Q’aja, Olga Kokoeva, Zibi London, Faye Dee, Hira Malik, Nikki Shyke, Shannen Eghbali and jewellery designer Daiva Dawood all brought their brilliant ranges to showcase; and were really brought into the limelight
From left: Diana Ellis Jones, Jessica Wigby, Nomy Khan, Anna Nedza, Fahan Khan, Barbod Mayriz, Tony Q’aja, Olga Kokoeva
at the catwalk by our presenter Diana Ellis Jones, complimented with trendy runway music by Vita DeeJay. Bryanna-Angel Allen’s makeup team, Adem Oygur and Shannen Eghbalis’ hair teams all worked their wonders backstage creating beautiful looks for the show. Last but not least, the show couldn’t have happened without all our sponsors and especially to Double Tree Hilton Hotel at Marble Arch for the elegant venue. What are your plans for Kaoska in the future? Kaoskas’ objective is to do more and more events, bigger and better to support charities and work with international talent throughout the globe.
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Kaoska Fashion Show 2016
Event
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Each year, Kaoska Fashion House hosts several fashion shows to support charities and help upcoming fashion designers to showcase their work and talent. This year for the September London Fashion Week, Kaoska Fashion House hosted one of its best shows at Double Tree Hilton Hotel in Marble Arch London. Featuring top designers as well as new fashion graduates, the show was a spectacle of gorgeous and stylist garments. Afi magazine was behindthe-scenes, capturing the beauty behind the chaos and teamwork at the backstage leading to the show.
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Event organiser & fashion choreographer Barbod Mayriz
Event presenter Diana Ellis Jones
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Nico Didonna
nicodidonna
Nico Didonna showcases his versatile range of couture outfits, each has the designer’s Italian heritage integral to its innovative tailoring, merging the classic with a conptempory feel. More of his collection can be viewed at www.nicodidonna.com
Hira Malik
hiramalik04
London based fashion designer Hira Malik, currently in her final year at London Fashion College, shows her talent and skills for immaculate hand embroidery in her dress collection.
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Tony Qaja
qaja_bespoke
Renowned designer and stylist Tony Q’aja hits the catwalk with his bespoke golfing and XXIV menswear collections.
Shannen Eghbali Shannen Eghabli, owner of Shannen Couture, shows her bespoke leather garments with everlasting quality and style. More at www.shannen.uk
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Nikki Sheikhali
nikkishyke
Nikki Sheikhali, a recently graduated designer from University of West London pushes the boundary of creativity with her evening dress collection. Persian Alchemy, a fusion of tradition Persian patterns with contemporary style.
Faye Stevenson Faye Stevenson of Fay-Dee sprinkles the runway with a sparkle of princess-like couture dresses.
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Olga Kokoeva
olga_kokoeva
Olga Kokoeva’s showed her “Shades of Life” collection. Her hand dyed organza dresses moved with a fairytale like quality. Its textiles inspired from the process of embryo development.
Zeynep Kucuk
zibi_london
Zeynep Kucuk of ZibiLondon showcases her elegant collection of evening dresses with an array of lace and patterns.
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Inspiration for the collection “Eclectic Thread� by Stipe Filipovic was found in a thread. The thread is usually a very fragile, gentle, delicate and self-defining. In this collection a new dimension, power, strength and obtrusiveness was given to the thread. The sensuality of hairstyles is pointed out with very unusual textures. These very textures are what make the impression of fragility of the hairstyles and not just part of a strictly stylish behavior under no circumstances. Stipe Filipovic Sarajevo, Bosnia and Herzegovina www.stipefilipovic.com
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Eclectic Thread
Photo: Edvin Kalic | Model: Marija Kolak Hair: Stipe Filipovic | Styling: Gordana Zucic
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HIGH TIDES Photo: Joshua.W.Parkinson Model: Demi Lawrence Hair & Makeup: John Norton
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DISQUIETUDE Disquietude: a state of uneasiness or anxiety.
Photo: Balazs Maar Model: Marina Lagutina @Shot Agency Management Hair & Make-up: Vesta Goodarz Designer & Styling: Eriya Miura | www.eriyamiura.com
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Dreams are an interpretation of our sub-conscious; our most intimate and personal thoughts that can rarely be expressed outside of the mind. Nightmares and bad dreams reach another level of our unconscious – our deepest fears. It is said that we normally sleep through a bad dream, however our body wakes us up when we are experiencing a nightmare. afi 79
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This demi-couture thesis collection is an intangible story told through the medium of clothing, integrating unconventional yet traditional methods of process and construction. The main use of handwork, textile manipulations and craftsmanship is important to the concept of the collection.
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Each of the 6 looks featured is derived from a fear or nightmare I have experienced that the rest of the world can as well relate to. Disquietude begins with a commonly experienced nightmare and progresses until the highest level of fear – the end of life. The journey of this collection leads to an overcoming of one’s phobia or trauma; an enlightenment and acceptance within oneself.
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“When we think of the unending growth and decay of life and civilizations, we cannot escape the impression of absolute nullity. Yet I have never lost a sense of something that lives and endures underneath the eternal flux. What we see is the blossom, which passes. The rhizome remains.� - C.G. Jung, Memories, Dreams, Reflections
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solo Photo: Christian Schneider (haltdieklappe Filmproduktion) Model: Avanya Tonks
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