Afi Vol 3 Issue 5

VOL.3 ISSUE 5

afi MAG

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VOL.3 ISSUE 5

Contents

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EDITORIALS “A Splash of Summer” by Conrad Lee P.4 “BO3ED” by Pol Kurucz P.22 “Tomboy” by Alena Nikiforova P.32 “Show Me Your Colours” by Conrad Lee P.38 “Chimera” by Dascha Ha P.50 “Mirror Profile” by Giulia Salvadori P.64 “Neon Waves” by Gala Regnault P.72 “Floraison” by Alexandra Mascia P.82 “Vintage Zest” by Julio Paniagua P.92 “Gestalta” by David Gabrielron P.100 “Blossom” by Marcos Rodríguez Velo P.106

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Editors Picks

A sustainable choice P.20 Bold & Bright is Back! P.46

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Features & Articles Boyish Top 10 tips to live a sustainable fashion lifestyle GFW coverage: Jade Rogers

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P.16 more P.18 P.60

Contributors Alexandra Mascia, Alena Nikiforova, Conrad Lee, Boysih, Dascha Ha, David Gabrielron, Giulia Salvadori, Gala Regnault, Jade Rogers, Julio Paniagua, Marcos Rodríguez Velo, Pol Kurucz

VOL.3 ISSUE 5

editor's Note Dear Readers So I want to tell you about two programmes I have watched recently on Netflix. One was an episode of BlackMirror “Nosedive”; the other was the documentary about the former Italian Vogue Editor-In-Chief “Franca: Chaos and Creation”. Well, you might wonder, how does these two relate to one another? So let me elaborate. (But warning: Minor spoilers alert)

ON THE COVER Photographer: CONRAD LEE @conradleephotography Model: CHIZOBA @chizoba_emmanuel_ represented by Milk Model Management Makeup: LUCIANA PETROSSIAN @luciana_makeupartist_ Styling: STEF CARTER @future_bloom

Editor-in-Chief - Conrad Lee Fashion Editor - Stef Carter Beauty Editor - Luciana Petrossian Assistant Graphic Designer - Jana Kroslakova

www.bit.ly/afimag

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Black Mirror – if you haven’t seen it, is highly recommended for its clever stories and plot twist whilst infusing the darker scopes of modern technology with social dynamics. In this episode “Nosedive”, it is about a tale of future social dystopia, where people are constantly rating one another through a five-point rating scale. The person’s average rating in turn determines how they are treated by others. Sound familiar? Yes, I am taking about our addiction to social media and the need for social validation. The problem is that people become so driven by social validation that they start to loose themselves and their purpose.

In contrast, the documentary “Franca: Chaos and Creation” tells a biography of a visionary – Franca Sozzani, the late editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia. Franca was a creative leader who did not seek validation from the world. She pushed boundaries and whilst courted many controversies by doing so, she transcended fashion and its’ link to all the happenings of the world. “The idea was there in front of everyone, but I was the one to take it.” Says Franca.

In this modern creative industry, it’s hard not to compare your own values with social validation, but we all must remember to never lose sight of our own visions. Be unique, be the black sheep. If you can dream it, then go for it full heartedly. This issue is dedicated to being bold, I hope you like it.

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Conrad Lee (Editor-In-Chief) Copyright ©. All rights reserved. No content within this publication is to be reproduced in any form without explicit written permission from afi magazine. Opinions and views of contributors are their own and not necessarily those of the publishers.

Afi magazine reserves the right to edit any submitted material if required and is not liable for any errors/omissions.

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Let your energy shine through with a charge of bold colours this season. Explore prints and patterns and how bright styles play out this summer. Photographed by Conrad Lee. Styling by Stef Carter

Splash OF SUMMER

A

Photographer: CONRAD LEE @conradleephotography Wardrobe stylist: STEF CARTER @future_bloom Assistant wardrobe stylist: DONNA MCCULLOCH @sulkydollstyling Makeup artist: LUCIANA PETROSSIAN @luciana_makeupartist_ Hair stylist: SANDRA HAHNEL @sandrahahnel Model: CARO MOURA @caromoura_ represented by ZONE MODELS @zone_models

Caro wears: Green suit jacket by MARC CAIN. Red bodysuit by LYDIA FUNG. Striped trousers by MARC CAIN. Kalin Palm Leaf slip-ons by SCOTCH&SODA. Earrings stylists own

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Caro wears: Green suit jacket by MARC CAIN. Red bodysuit by LYDIA FUNG. Striped trousers by MARC CAIN. Kalin Palm Leaf slip-ons by SCOTCH&SODA. Earrings stylists own

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Caro wears: Trousers by MARC CAIN. Socks by ASOS. Pink bow heels by CHIE MIHARA. Shirt vintage. Ocean crab brooch by SWAROVSKI.

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Caro wears: Red layered dress by DESIGNED BY JOSH. Goddess cocktail ring by SWAROVSKI

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Caro wears: Tiered Maxi dress by SCOTCH&SODA

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Caro wears: Claudia dress by ANOYME. Straw hat vintage

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Caro wears: Ruffle sleeve top by SCOTCH&SODA. Stripe maxi skirt by J.WON from YOUNG BRITISH DESIGNERS. Belt by HERMES

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Caro wears: Mia shirt and trousers by ANONYME. Pink suit blazer

by SCOTCH&SODA. Raspberry sunglasses by YOU MAWO. Orange headband by &OTHER STORIES. Throwing Star gold earrings

by SALLY LANE

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Caro wears: Green corset by ALICE PONS. Pink suit blazer by SCOTCH&SODA. Printed scarf by ASOS. Oversized square glasses by SVNX

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Caro wears: Leila printed dress by VIOLA MENCHINI. Read heart earrings by NO SHRINKING VIOLET

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Caro wears: Organza coat of many colours by MINKI LONDON from YOUNG BRITISH DESIGNERS

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Feature

Our Fashion Editor Stef aka Future Bloom sat down with LA based denim brand Boyish to find out how these pioneers are championing ethical AND sustainable denim in the fashion industry.

Interview by Stef Carter

What is it about conventional denim that causes so much pollution?

Cotton mostly, the use of the pesticides / insecticides and of course the massive amounts of water needed.

1800 gallons of water just for one jean. 60% of those resources go just to fabric. In addition to cotton, denim uses an absurb amount of harsh non ecofriendly chemicals.

“People need to realize that its cool to care about the planet.�

How does Boyish eradicate this?

We focus on using recycled cotton that would have otherwise been thrown away into a landfill.

We use around 30% recycled cotton in our denim.

Then we also use alternative fibers like Tencel TM lyocell & Refibra x Tencel TM recycled lyocell.

These fibers use 1/10th the amount of water as cotton and do not recycle all the harsh chemicals and pesticides. Furthermore, our dyes and garment washing process to make our jeans look vintage use only certified chemicals that are biodegradable and environmentally safe. We use Tonello & VAV

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machines in our factory which help to reduce water and energy usage by applying vapor spraying technology that replaces the traditional filling up of the washing machines with water and laser machines that replace sanding jeans.

How do you ensure fair wages and fair working conditions throughout your sourcing and manufacturing processes?

We audit all our factories and vendors with Intertek agency. Currently our factories score in the top 95%+ range which is extremely good! I also visit all our factories 3-4 times a year and walk through checking on all products and conditions.

How important is vintage fashion to the industry and in helping your brand to be sustainable?

Vintage clothing is extremely important! If jeans are made well then they should last the ages which give them the chance to be passed from generation to generation. This is why we use mostly heavier 100% natural fiber fabrics. They last longer, they can be recycled, and they dont have any plastic petroleum oil based fibers like traditional stretch denim.

Images - BOYISH JEANS collection S/S19

and traditional cotton. I’d say Reformations standards of sustainability are higher than any other brand I know out there!

Where do you see the future of fashion?

Lots of plant based fibers as well as more recycling garments mechanically and cellulosically I hope!

What will it take for people to have a mind shift away from fast fashion and to embrace sustainable fashion?

People need to realize that its cool to care about the planet. What will be left for the generations beyond ours if we don’t make good decisions now!

“If jeans are made well then they should last the ages which give them the chance to be passed from generation to generation.”

What are your top tips for people to be more sustainable?

Check the labels. Know what fiber the garment is made of and request information from your brands.

Ask them what certifications, what their stance on micro fiber shedding is, and to see an audit report of their factory conditions.

Favorite sustainable (non denim!) brands?

Reformation, Patagonia, Eileen Fisher, Veja.

Who do you feel are really making waves in the sustainability space?

Patagonia has been a leader for years. They pretty much paved the path for most brands. I recently heard Yvon speak about how they are focusing on organic regenerative cotton growing. That means using plants to add nutrients back into the soil versus using fertilizers. Thats the true form of agriculture.

Working with the land and the organisms that are meant to nourish that land. Also, Reformation has amazing policies and stances on per say, Polyester

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TOP 10 TIPS TO LIVE A

MORE SUSTAINABLE FASHION LIFESTYLE

It’s important that we ALL band together to be sustainable, but what does that mean? How can we make small changes that make a difference? By Stef Carter “Buy less, choose well, make it last.”

- Dame Vivienne Westwood

Landfills burn the equivalent of one truck full of garments every second. Just read that again. Can you even fathom the volume of clothes that are burnt on an annual basis and the pollution that creates?! When you consider that the majority of these clothes are fast fashion trend pieces, that are often made from plastic-based fabrics that’s an enormous amount of pollution. So you may be doing your part by giving up using plastic straws, or even throwaway paper cups, but what impact are your clothes having on the environment? We look at 10 factors that when considered when purchasing clothing can help make less of an impact on the world.

Until there is a mass mind shift in how we consume, we are heading down a spiraling slope that is ruining the planet for future generations. So here’s a handy guide to help!

1: Plastic conscious. The ma-

jority of people know that synthetic fabrics like polyester, nylon, acrylic are almost entirely made up of plastic. But the impact doesn’t stop at their creation or destruction, every time you wash these items, millions of microfibres are swept into the water which eventually makes their way into the ocean, and then the food chain. Yes, if you’re a seafood lover you’re probably eating plas-

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tic too. These fabrics do not degrade, so either they sit in a landfill, or are burnt which causes no end of harmful vapors. Not to mention these fabrics also aren’t good for the skin as it doesn’t allow the body to breathe so you’ll sweat more - someone should let passengers on the central line know this too. The simplest option is to avoid items with these nasties in the fabric blend!

2. Shop smarter - not faster! If you want

to update your wardrobe, think about taking something out to put something in.

Whether that be selling it online, donating it to a charity shop, or a local homeless shelter, put your old item to good use before replacing it. As the saying goes, one mans trash is another man’s treasure! Then when you are replacing the item think about where you’re purchasing it from. Why not look in vintage stores, often you will be able to find statement pieces that have been made to last, plus you won’t find someone else wearing it! If shopping online there are a whole host of websites dedicated to ethical and sustainable clothing. Check the brand’s website on their manufacturing processes and their code of conduct in equal pay for workers then you know you’ll have purchased something where everyone has benefitted in the production chain, and its environmental impact is limited.

3. Know the difference

between ethical and sustainable. Quite often the two get lumped together but there is a difference. Ethical is more biased towards the fair treatment of workers in

the supply chain to make sure everyone has been treated and paid fairly. It’s more focused around the brand’s morals such as safe working conditions, equal and fair treatment, and a living wage.

Whereas sustainable is more about products that are made to last and is made with environmental impact in mind. It considers factors such as pollution ranging from pollution in the water, the ecosystem or the atmosphere. For example, buying vintage is considered to be sustainable as it is a form of recycling as it isn’t a new purchase (and isn’t newly made) however it doesn’t make it ethical. When the product was originally made the manufacturer may not have treated their workers fairly, for example.

4. Make do and mend. During the wartime ra-

tioning era, you couldn’t just go and buy the new and latest fashions. Instead, garments were upcycled and repurposed, nothing was thrown away, clothes were cut up and reshaped to form a new garment. Nowadays if buttons fall off or there is a tear we think the item is destined for the bin. Why not pop down to your local haberdashery and pick up some new buttons to breathe a new lease of life into a shirt, or patches to stick onto jeans. There is an abundance of content online on simple ways to upcycle what you already own. Get friendly with your local seamstress and have trousers rehemmed to a cropped fit, turn maxi skirts into midi skirts.. or simply ask them what ideas they have! Et Voila, you have a new style from something you already own.

5. The 30 wears challenge. Originally started

by Livia Firth, the founder of Eco Age to challenge people to think about the usage of an item before they buy it. Ask yourself will I really wear this 30 times - answer honestly and quite often you’ll find the answer is no. It also makes you think more creatively about how to wear and style items, how many ways can you wear a shirt, or a jumper to get maximum usage from them. There are tonnes of videos on YouTube on “X amount of ways to wear a...” so have a look and see what new style life you can breathe into an item.

6. Understand the brands

you are buying from and be careful of “greenwashing.” That’s where brands talk about how “eco” they are when they aren’t. To put it bluntly. Use websites such as goodonyou.eco who rate brands based on public information available a particular company. And after all, the genuine ethical and sustainable companies won’t hide the fact that they genuinely are.

They rate companies on three key factors: People, Planet and Animals. People asses the supply chain: the use of slave labour or forced labour, worker

safety, payment of a living wage, and supplier relationships. Planet looks at each brands resource use and disposal, energy use and carbon emissions, impacts on water and chemical use/disposal. Animal looks at the use of any type of animal product from fur, angora, down, shearling, leather, etc. So all factors considered you can really arm yourself with the information necessary to make an informed purchase.

7. Knowledge is power.

Educate yourself on the harmful effects of the fast fashion industry; a particularly poignant documentary on Netflix called The True Cost is a harrowing account of the effects of the fast fashion industry; that “bargain” we are picking up has been paid for in other ways, someone has suffered the price that you are paying. It really is an eye opener and a must watch by all.

8. Look after your clothes.

If you focus on buying quality over quantity chances are they will last longer anyway because they are of higher quality, but make sure you take steps to care for them: wash jeans inside out and wash less frequently. Get items professionally dry cleaned when essential. While we’re on the subject of dry cleaning instead of keeping those metal hangers, give them back to your dry cleaner! Wash items on cold, and avoid tumble dryers as the energy used by machines is unnecessary and can be damaging to your clothes, air dry instead!

9. Use Instagram for a cause. If you want to

know where a brand sources materials from, or whether their supply chain is ethical, you may not have the contact details for their supply chain but you have the brand’s Instagram page, so call them out! Ask them the questions you want to know as a consumer, and just by commenting you can help influence how others think about their purchasing habits - it will all be out in the open so they have to respond.

10. Apply these principles. There is not one

perfectly sustainable and ethical brand out there right now, it just doesn’t exist as of yet. However, if you actively take these principles on board when buying, and buy from a company that is taking steps to change their practices and are on their way to making a difference then that’s all we can do right now. Educate yourself and be conscious of each and every purchase, then you will be making a small impact on the world. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if everyone applied these principles, can you imagine the impact it could have on saving this melting pot we’re living on?

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INA YELLOW Mini crossbody by Behno $395

FARAI BERRY Glasses by PALA £75

DENIAA TROPICAL SPIRIT Dress by Armedangels £110

LOTTIE ICARO PRINT Block vegan heels

by Beyond Skin £159

ZULA Dress by Mother of Pearl £995 ABBY Skirt by Amur $498

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TAGERINE Vest and shorts set by Tales of Thread £55.00

ORANGE / AZURE CHECK Silk mini dress by Kseniaschnaider $220

LOVE FACE Bag by Paradise Row London £395

afi fashion

A sustainable choice

Editors Picks

Long gone are the days where sustainable fashion has been associated with shades of muted oatmeal and stiff scratchy fabrics. Now you can find beautiful bright, and on trend pieces. Check out these pieces perfect for summer that you can purchase with a clear conscious Picked by Stef Carter. Edited by Jana Kroslakova BECAUSE WE CAN Organza skirt by Maggie Marilyn £310 TIE DIE COTTON Karate pant by Tome $295

VISBY EQUALITY Organic t-shirt by Dedicated £30

TAYRI Top by Mochi £55

HELENA ENAMEL Bag in lavender by Bottletop £195 CANVAS VIV Women’s sandals by TOM’s £48

HOT PINK BAGRU STAMP SZ Kitty dress

by Sarah Zellweger £98

VERO MULES Vegan shoes by Nae £49

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Camila wears: Bodysuit by NEPHEW

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BOR3D BOR3D BOR3D Mixing fashion and pop art to challenge social and aesthetic norms, these eccentric characters have reinvented their own powerful, surrealistic universe out of boredom. Photography by Pol Kurucz Styling by Ne Bardac

Photographer: POL KURUCZ @polkurucz | Wardrobe styling: NÊ BARDAC @nebardac | Makeup Artist: EDU HYDE @eduhyde | Hair stylist: SOLANGE DIAS @ personalhairsolangedias | Models: CAMILA SIMÕES @ camisimoess, THAIS BORGES @thaisborgesbr, ZYON @ zyomra, VICTÓRIA ROSSI @vickrossi_, NAKY @nakyanne, NATASHA SOARES @natashasoares__, BEATRIZ ANDRADE @be.atriiz, FLAVIA WEISS @flaweiss, LOLA GLEICH @lolagleich, MARY D @iamaryd afi 23

Camila wears: Shower cap by OSADA, Shoes by MELIS

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Flavia wears: Designs by NÊ BARDAC

Thais wears: Nipple tassels by OSADA

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Lola wears: Bra by JANIERO - BODY OF COLOURS

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Victรณria wears: Bra by DAS HAUS, Pantyhose

by CAPEZIO, Shoes by DANI CURY

Beatriz wears: Dress by Nร BARDAC

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Naky wears: Dress by NÊ BARDAC

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Natasha wears: Nipple tassels by OSADA, Dress by NÊ BARDAC

Victória wears: Bra by DAS HAUS, Pantyhose

by CAPEZIO, Shoes by DANI CURY

Mary wears: Design by NÊ BARDAC

Natasha wears: Dress by NÊ BARDAC

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Zyon wears: Rompers by NÊ BARDAC

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Naky wears: Dress by NÊ BARDAC

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Photographer: ALENA NIKIFOROVA @sunny_blossom | Model: LYUDMILA CHIZHOVA @lyusia_chizhopa | Wardrobe Stylist: NATALIA SHELEST @darthvaderislove | Makeup Artist: LYUBOV RASSOLOVA @lyubovmua

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BOY

Lyudmila wears: (This page) Shirt by ZARA X ANA MUSHELL. Earrings Handmade. (Opposite page) 3-piece suit by SOROKA X ON COURSE, Shoes by ZARA

Breakdown gender barriers and explore the possibilities when you mix boxy shapes with bold colour.

Photographed by Alena Nikiforova.

Styling by Natalia Shelest

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Lyudmila wears: Suit by SOROKA X ON COURSE. Earrings by BERSHKA. Shoes by THRIFTED.

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Lyudmila wears: Suit by SOROKA X ON COURSE. Earrings by BERSHKA. Shoes by THRIFTED.

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Lyudmila wears: Shirt by ZARA. Jumpsuit by KURSOVOY. Earrings by LADY

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Lyudmila wears: Suit by SEREBROVA, Hat by UNIQLO, Shoes by H&M

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Chizoba wears: One shoulder puff sleeve dress by ASOS. Lucky Goddess by SWAROVSKI. Lucky goddess heart motif ring by SWAROVSKI SKIN: OLE HENRIKSEN C-Rush Brightening Gel Crème and Banana Bright Eye Crème, MAKE UP FOR EVER Ultra HD Foundation, Ultra HD Concealer and Ultra HD Setting Powder, MAKE UP FOR EVER Flash Color Palette in shade ’25 – Fushia’, BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid in ‘Opal’ and ‘Topaz’ mixed EYES: WEST BARN CO Soap Brows, MAKE UP FOR EVER Smokey Lash Mascara, SAMPLE BEAUTY Loose Pigment Eyeshadow in ‘Scoobies’ LIPS: BUXOM Full-On Lip Polish in ‘Jasmine’

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This summer calls for the bright and bold. Show off the rainbow within you with colourful palettes married with feminine silhouettes. . Photographed by Conrad Lee. Makeup

by Luciana Petrossian

SHOW ME YOUR COLOURS Photographer: CONRAD LEE @conradleephotography Model: CHIZOBA @chizoba_emmanuel_ represented by MILK MODEL MANAGEMENT @milkmodelmanagement Makeup artist: LUCIANA PETROSSIAN @luciana_makeupartist_ Wardrobe stylist: STEF CARTER @future_bloom afi 39

Chizoba wears: Blue sateen cotton ruffle dress by TEIJA EILOLA from YOUNG BRITISH DESIGNERS. Earrings: Lucky goddess heart clip earrings by SWAROVSKI SKIN: OLE HENRIKSEN C-Rush Brightening Gel Crème and Banana Bright Eye Crème, MAKE UP FOR EVER Ultra HD Foundation, Ultra HD Concealer and Ultra HD Setting Powder, THE BODY SHOP Lip & Cheek Stain in ‘Deep Cherry’, BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid in ‘Opal’ and ‘Topaz’ mixed EYES: WEST BARN CO Soap Brows, MAKE UP FOR EVER Smokey Lash Mascara, NYX Vivid Brights Eyeliner in ‘Fire’ and ‘Sapphire’, MORPHE 35B Color BurstPalette shade ‘White’ LIPS: LIPSTICK QUEEN ‘Frog Prince’

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Chizoba wears: Wrap belted suit blazer by ASOS. Mini rocky multistrand collar by KARL LAGERFELD. Mini rocky multi-row necklace by KARL LAGERFELD. Pyramid cluster ring by KARL LAGERFELD SKIN: OLE HENRIKSEN C-Rush Brightening Gel Crème and Banana Bright Eye Crème, MAKE UP FOR EVER Ultra HD Foundation, Ultra HD Concealer and Ultra HD Setting Powder, THE BODY SHOP Lip & Cheek Stain in ‘Deep Berry’, BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid in ‘Opal’ and ‘Topaz’ mixed EYES: WEST BARN CO Soap Brows, MORPHE 35B Color Burst Palette in shades ‘Apple Cider’ and ‘Purplish’, MAKE UP FOR EVER Aqua Seal, SAMPLE BEAUTY Loose Eyeshadow Pigment in ‘Limewire’, MAKE UP FOR EVER Artist Liquid Matte Lipstick in ‘501 – Purple’, MAKE UP FOR EVER Smokey Lash Mascara LIPS: BUXOM Full-On Lip Polish in ‘Jasmine’

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Chizoba wears: Green ruffle shirt SCOTCH&SODA. Twist block headscarf ASOS. Ocean crab brooch by SWAROVSKI.

SKIN:

OLE HENRIKSEN C-Rush Brightening Gel Crème and Banana Bright Eye Crème, MAKE UP FOR EVER Ultra HD Foundation, Ultra HD Concealer and Ultra HD Setting Powder, THE BODY SHOP Lip & Cheek Stain in ‘Pink Guava’, BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid in ‘Opal’ and ‘Topaz’ mixed EYES: WEST BARN CO Soap Brows, MAKE UP FOR EVER Smokey Lash Mascara, KEVYN AUCOIN The exotique Diamond Eye Gloss in ‘Moonstone’ LIPS: MAC Prep + Prime Lip, MAKE UP FOR EVER Artist Color Pencil in ‘902 – Versatile Violet’ MAC Lipstick in ‘Heroine’, LIPSTICK QUEEN ‘Venetian Masquerade’, KEVYN AUCOIN The Exotique Diamond Eye Gloss in ‘Moonstone’

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SKIN: OLE HENRIKSEN C-Rush Brightening Gel Crème and Banana Bright Eye Crème, MAKE UP FOR EVER Ultra HD Foundation, Ultra HD Concealer and Ultra HD Setting Powder, THE BODY SHOP Lip & Cheek Stain in ‘Pink Guava’, BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid in ‘Opal’ and ‘Topaz’ mixed EYES:WEST BARN CO Soap Brows, MAKE UP FOR EVER Smokey Lash Mascara, NYX Professional Makeup Vivid Brights Eyeliners in shades ‘Fire, Halo, Petal, Sapphire and Blossom’, ‘M-26 – Matte Light Turquoise’, DIOR Diorshow On Stage Liner in ‘876 – Matte Rusty’ LIPS:LIPSTICK QUEEN ‘Frog Prince’

Chizoba wears: Silk satin shirt by SCOTCH&SODA. Pyramid cluster ring by KARL LAGERFELD. Thin pierced K bangle by KARL LAGERFELD. Rose gold watch by VERSUS VERSACE

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Chizoba wears: Purple outfit: Lilac chambray dress by COLLUSION. Lilac earrings by NO SHRINKING VIOLET SKIN: OLE HENRIKSEN C-Rush Brightening Gel Crème and Banana Bright Eye Crème, MAKE UP FOR EVER Ultra HD Foundation, Ultra HD Concealer and Ultra HD Setting Powder, THE BODY SHOP Lip & Cheek Stain in ‘Pink Guava’, BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid in ‘Opal’ and ‘Topaz’ mixed EYES: WEST BARN CO Soap Brows, URBAN DECAY Double Team Special Effect Mascara in ‘Goldmine’ LIPS: BUXOM PowerPlump Lip Balm in ‘Flushed’

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Chizoba wears: Lucky Goddess cocktail ring by SWAROVSKI. ring SKIN: OLE HENRIKSEN C-Rush Brightening Gel Crème and Banana Bright Eye Crème, MAKE UP FOR EVER Ultra HD Foundation, Ultra HD Concealer and Ultra HD Setting Powder, THE BODY SHOP Lip & Cheek Stain in ‘Dark Cherry’, BECCA Shimmering Skin Perfector Liquid in ‘Opal’ and ‘Topaz’ mixed EYES: WEST BARN CO Soap Brows, MAKE UP FOR EVER Smokey Lash Mascara, MAKE UP FOR EVER Aqua XL Color Paint in ‘M-72 – Matte Red’ LIPS: BUXOM Va-Va Plump Shiny Liquid Lipstick in ‘Boldly Go’

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Bold & Bright is back!

The multi-season natural glowy makeup look is going nowhere, however this season’s trends are offering up a much-needed dose of colour. Whether it’s a punchy neon lip, or a multi-coloured graphic liner, there is something for everyone. written by Luciana Petrossian

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Model: Chizoba @Milk Model Management. Photography by Conrad Lee. Makeup by Luciana Petrossian.

Statement Lips

GET THE LOOK

Neon Nights Electrify your makeup look and glow with confidence. Get a shock to the system with a bolt of colour!

Perfect your pout. Be bold, be daring.

Frame your smile with a powerful pop of purple.

Feel electric this summer and embrace the beauty trend that’s been gracing the red carpets, catwalks and the celebrities and influencers flooding across our Instagram feed. Beauty brands have jumped on the neon trend and released vibrant makeup lines, such as Fenty Beauty’s new Juicy Satin Lipsticks, Huda Beauty’s Neon Obsessions Eyeshadow Palettes and Danessa Myricks’ Vivid Waterproof Cream Palette. The options are endless we are spoilt for choice with products to get creative and colourful.

To create this neon eye look, I began by applying the shade ‘Apple Cider’ from the Morphe 35B Color Burst Palette as a base for the green eye, followed by the shade ‘Purplish’ as a base for the purple eye.

For the neon, I mixed Make Up For Ever Aqua Seal – a mixing medium that turns any powder pigment into a waterproof liquid texture – with Sample Beauty Loose Eyeshadow Pigment in ‘Limewire’ for the green eye, Make Up For Ever Artist Liquid Matte Lipstick in shade ‘501 – Purple’ for the purple eye. Lastly, I added Buxom Full-On Lip Polish in ‘Jasmine’.

MORPHE

35 B Colour Burst

Palette

“Beauty brands have jumped on the neon trend” MAKE UP FOR EVER Aqua Seal

SAMPLE BEAUTY Loose Eyeshadow Pigment

This highly concentrated liquid formula converts any makeup including eyeshadows into a liquid, long lasting waterproof finish. The gentle, alcohol free formula, does not irritate the delicate eye area and intensifies colour.

Statement lips are everywhere right now. Not just red, but corals, oranges, pinks and purples. It’s time to ditch the nude lipstick and swap it for a vibrant purple or neon coral lip. Be brave, you won’t regret it!

Firstly, I prepped the lips with MAC Prep + Prime Lip, then I created an ombré effect by lining the lips with Make Up For Ever Artist Color Pencil in ‘902 – Versatile LIPSTICK Violet’ then colouring in the outer QUEEN in corners of the lips and blending in‘Venetian wards. Next I applied MAC Lipstick in Masquerade’ ‘Heroine’ to the centre of the lip and blended outwards into the darker lip liner. To add a bit of moisture to the lip I added Lipstick Queen ‘Venetian Masquerade’, a sheer moisturising lipstick that reacts to the temperature and pH of your lips, giving you your own unique purple hue. To complete this look I added Kevyn Aucoin’s Diamond Eye Gloss in ‘Moonstone’. This multi-use product has a non-sticky, comfortable, high-shine formula that adds a cool-girl glassy wet look to the eyes.

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GET THE LOOK

Rainbow Graphics Why choose one eyeliner colour when you can have them all?!

Push your makeup boundaries and express yourself.

A fan of the classic winged eyeliner? Step it up a notch and add some colour! You can do this by layering different colours or you could even do an ombré effect, play with shapes and mix it up!

There are some fabulous vibrant liquid eyeliners on the market, to create this look, I used NYX Professional Makeup Vivid Brights Eyeliners in shades ‘Fire, Halo, Petal, Sapphire and Blossom’.

Make Up For Ever Aqua XL Ink Liner in ‘M-26 – Matte Light Turquoise’ and Dior Diorshow On Stage Liner in ‘876 – Matte Rusty’.

NYX Vivid Brights Eyeliner features an ultra fine brush perfect for creating even the thinnest of liners and they have a fantastic range of trendy colours to choose from.

The Make Up For Ever Aqua XL Ink Liner has a semi-flex applicator that offers a lining range from high precision, to extra thick colouring. It has a highly pigmented, completely waterproof, 24-hour wear formula and was tested by synchronised swimmers in Paris. So you can be assured, it definitely won’t budge!

Dior’s Diorshow On Stage Liner features a hybrid tip that combines the ease of a felt-tip pen with the suppleness of a brush. Its fine tip allows for a freer application. The ultra-pigmented and waterproof formula is available in 3 intense effects – vinyl, matte and satiny.

To finish this look I added Lipstick Queen ‘Frog Prince’ Lipstick to the lips. This wonderfully deceiving lipstick appears to be emerald green. However as soon as it touches the lips, the green reacts with the warmth and pH to the wearer to create a beautiful shade of rosebud pink unique to each wearer.

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LIPSTICK QUEEN in ‘Frog Prince’

MA Ink KE Lin UP F er OR

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DIOR Diorshow On Stage Liners

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NYX Vivid Brights Eyeliners

GET THE LOOK

Zest it up

URBAN DECAY Double Team Special Effect Mascara in ‘Goldmine’

Paint your lashes any colour of the rainbow. This trend is easy to apply, will refresh your makeup and show your playful side.

Bold eyelashes are back! Fancy adding a fresh pop of colour to your look, that doesn’t take ages to apply? Coloured mascara is your friend. With so many brands coming out with range of vibrant mascaras such as Yves Saint Laurent, NYX, 3ina, Kryolan, Sigma, Urban Decay and Giorgio Armani, you’re spoiled for choice.

Keep it simple by leaving the eyelids bare and let the eyelashes do the talking!

For these beautifully bold eyelashes, Urban Decay Double Team Special Effect Mascara in ‘Goldmine’. I added quite a few coats to get extra thick lashes and make them stand out even more. I kept the lips very simple and added a touch of Buxom PowerPlump Lip Balm in ‘Flushed’.

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Kati wears: Golden pleated capet by JESSICA WALTER.

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Photographer: DASCHA HA @dascha_ha | Model: KATI SELUGA @katiseluga represented by TUNE MODELS @tunemodels | Fashion Designer: JESSICA WALTER @jessica.w.official | Makeup Artist/Hair Stylist: SANDRA HOLUSCHA @sandra.holuscha_makeupartist | Assistant/Videographer: VILLI GRASENKOV @noize.offiziell | Assistant: MARKUS @viewofmarquis

CHIMERA

Step into a whimsical tale with these delicate dreamlike couture looks, designed with the most exquisite ultra-feminine texture and details. Photographed by Dascha Ha. Fashion design by Jessica Walter

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Kati wears: Golden jumpshit with pleated tulle shoulders by JESSICA WALTER.

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Kati wears: Golden jumpshit with pleated tulle shoulders by JESSICA WALTER.

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Kati wears: designs by JESSICA WALTER.

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Kati wears: Beige mermaid dress by JESSICA WALTER.

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Kati wears: Beige mermaid dress by JESSICA WALTER.

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Kati wears: Blue mermaid dress by JESSICA WALTER.

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Kati wears: Tulle dress by JESSICA WALTER.

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Kati wears: Tulle dress by JESSICA WALTER.

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Feature

DESIGNS OF NEW HEIGHTS When fashion meets engineering. See how Jade Rogers cleverly designed her final collection that raised eyebrows at Graduate Fashion Week 2019 We saw your final collection at the Graduate Fashion Week 2019.

The honeycomb structures in your collection was very striking.

Can you tell us a bit more in detail about your collection and the story behind it?

My collection is inspired by the awkwardness of being a tall person. For me, being tall has always been one of my biggest insecurities and so I used this project as an opportunity to take ownership of what makes me different. Looking up at other people is something I rarely experience and so by putting myself under tall buildings, I was able to visualise how viewing objects from different heights can change your perspective of their shape and form. From this, I began exploring with fish-eye lense photography as a way of visually communicating distorted silhouettes.

This is what I wanted to translate into my garments. I am very intrigued by fabric manipulation, which stems from my background in engineering and so I knew that I would be creating garments with elements of structure and form.

were made out of paper, to gain a basic understanding of how it works, then I tried using fabric to see how it would behave. I ran into problems when using fabric, as there was no way to get a sewing machine inside of the honeycomb, and hand sewing would have taken such a long time. I tried various bonding methods to join the layers together, such as fabric glue and double sided tape. What seemed to work best were strips of bondaweb that fused the fabric together. I still had an issue of getting inside the honeycomb to fuse the bondaweb, and that is where I had to get a little bit creative. I ended up using a pair of hair straighteners as these were the idea shape and size to gain access inside the structures.

“My collection is inspired by the awkwardness of being a tall person.�

What was the process of getting the inspiration and ideas into a physical garment?

The idea of creating distorted silhouettes out of fabric was at first a daunting prospect, however, I have always been intrigued by fabric manipulation. Before studying a degree in fashion at the Plymouth college of Art, I was studying mechanical engineering, and although these are very different disciplines, having had a background in engineering has positively influenced my work in fashion as I have an understanding of form and structure. Creating the honeycomb was not an easy task and involved many trials and errors to get to a method that worked best. My initial tests

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The high platform shoes that went with your collection were super cool. Can you tell us more about the how these were created?

Our college was contacted by Size? with an offer for a collaboration. The four students selected for the catwalk at Graduate fashion Week were given exclusive access to the new Reebok Slice shoes and asked to be creative in our approach to reinterpret the shoes to fit with our collections.

As my collection is inspired by being tall, I wanted for the shoes to reflect this, which is why I decided to put platforms on the bottom of the shoes. I collaborated with two first year students from my college to work together on these. Prior to this, I had never had any experience with working on shoes and so it was a learning curve for me. They were sprayed white for a uniform colour and given purple laces to align with my color palette. The platforms were made using a dense foam and bonded to the soles of the shoes with an epoxy resin. It was an interesting experience and I am grateful for the opportunity to do something a little different.

What was running through your head the moment you saw your collection down the runway?

I chose to stay backstage during the show, so that I could help dress the models, ensuring the garments went on correctly, and my accessories went with the correct outfit. The last I saw of my collection was when the models went out for the catwalk. I was in anticipation the whole time, hoping it would go smoothly and all come back in one piece. When the models came back, I could hear the applause from the audience and I knew at that moment it had gone perfectly.

What is it like studying BA Fashion at Plymouth?

I am very fortunate that I am local to the area and when I came to the Plymouth College of Art, I knew that this was the perfect place for me to be and learn. Not only is the college based in a beautiful seaside city, the facilities that we have at the college are amazing. From a large fashion studio workspace with access to a variety of industrial sewing machinery, as well as Optitex CAD systems for digital pattern cutting, to the college’s FabLab where I have utilised the laser cutter and 3D printing facilities to aid in the development of my collection.

What did you hope the audience would notice about your collection on the runway?

My collection was made using lightweight, sheer fabrics that were combined with my knowledge of construction and fabric manipulation. I hoped that the audience would notice how the honeycomb was structured and held its form, yet at the same time, bounced and was fluid on the body while walking. Another thing I hoped would come across in my collection was the versatility of my creations. The honeycomb dress was the statement piece of my collection that would really stand out and be seen at an event or exhibition.

The other garments still had elements of the structure, but in a more wearable way, such as the honeycomb sleeves for the blouse. For me, it was really important to have this transition between a piece that stood out, and something that you could see yourself buying as a consumer.

Tell us a bit about your fashion journey?

As I have previously mentioned, I did not come from a conventional textiles background before studying a degree in fashion. I have always been a more hands-on kind of person which is why I enjoyed creative subjects at school. Even as a young child, I loved to understand how things were made and constructed. I was passionate about woodwork at school and so it was a natural progression for me to go on to studying a BTEC in mechanical engineering. I even applied for degree courses in engineering; however, I felt I had to do what made me happy and do a more creative subject. I chose fashion as it was not too dissimilar to what I had been doing, and it would allow me to be more free and expressive in my creations.

Apart from your finals collection, any other proud moments or achievements for you being a designer?

Over the course of my threeyear degree, I have learnt so much about myself as a person, but also as a fashion practitioner. I have realised that I have a passion for pattern cutting and garment construction.

I enjoy the process of taking a design on paper and turning it into a wearable garment.

Outside of my studies, I have achieved some rewarding moments. My design was selected in a competition to be the new sports kit for the Plymouth Raiders Development basketball team. I was able to use my skills from my degree to produce a technical pack, the kits were then manufactured locally and are now used by the team. This was a very rewarding project for me to see my work brought into reality.

I have also been lucky enough to work with a local fashion designer, to help design and pattern cut her first collection for her label. This for me was my Above: Jade’s design on the run way during the opening collective show at first opportunity to work alongGraduate Fashion Week 2019. (Image by Sarah Packer) side a business owner and put my skills and knowledge of pattern cutting into a real world situation.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years’ time?

What excites you most about the future of being in the fashion industry?

Above: Jade’s high platform Reebok Slice shoes designed to fit with her collection (Image courtesy of Size?)

In 10 years’ time, I would love to be working for a high end fashion house.

Being involved in the pattern cutting process, working alongside a team to produce the latest collections. I think I am most excited about all of the opportunities I could have in the fashion industry. The chance to work with amazingly talented people, travel around the world and learn new skills.

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How would you define your particular style and aesthetic?

First and foremost, I would have to say that in everything that I do, I am a perfectionist. It is the small details that matter to me. Getting the right look, shape and fit are what I consider when producing any work. I enjoy taking one idea and developing it to new things, an example of this would be my honeycomb dress, which I then developed into sleeves for a blouse, and then a structured skirt. I always tell myself ‘if it works it works, and if it doesn’t, how can you make it work?’.

As a new generation of designer, do you feel that you have to be responsive to current social and political issues and lead by example?

I think that in everyday life, regardless of who you are or what you do, we should all be aware of the social and political issues surrounding us and the generations to come. The fashion industry has at times been used as a platform to speak out and make a statement. It is not just a matter of creating a beautiful collection to send down the runway, we can use our work to make people think, especially now when people are actively making choices to seek sustainable options.

What are your views on fashion sustainability?

I think that sustainability in

fashion is a bit of a grey area.

The idea of being a sustainable brand is great and many brands do claim to be; however, the reality is much harder.

Often, when a brand says that they use recyclable fabrics to create their clothing, there are underlying issues that are not always addressed such as sourcing materials, manufacturing, production, transportation, all of which can have negative impacts on the environment.

Some smaller, independent labels are doing a good job at actively trying to tackle this issue by sourcing materials locally and ethically, manufacturing within the UK, and informing the consumer about where their clothes are from so that they can then make informed choices about what to do with the clothes. This is a step in the right direction, and will hopefully grow in the future.

What are your views on social media and the development of a fashion designer / brand?

In this day and age, technology is a part of our daily lives. Social media is the reigning platform for networking and growing as a brand. It is a very competitive place and can be difficult to reach out to the audience that you want. I think that it is important to know who you are as a brand and who your customer is, what they like and what they want. For me, a key part of networking online and developing my social media presence, was

Jade’s statement honeycomb dress in the making

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Jade’s statement honeycomb dress (Image by Sarah Packer)

(Image by Sarah Packer)

Above: Jade’s collection line up at Graduate Fashion Week 2019 (Image courtesy of Size?)

collaborating. Throughout my final collection, one of my biggest aims to was to collaborate with as many people as possible. I was able to work with film students, a photography student, fashion media and marketing students, and a jewellery student. This allowed me to make connections and network across multiple platforms. These collaborations helped make a bigger impact on my social media presence and so that would be my advice to anyone looking to develop their own social media as a designer.

What would be your dream collaboration?

One of my biggest inspirations is Iris

Van Herpen. A lot of her work focuses on structure and form, but also has movement and fluidity on the body.

This is something that reflects my final collection and the way in which I like to work. I think that she is a forward-thinking designer, combining couture craftsmanship and technology such as 3D printing, which I believe is the future for high end fashion. For me, working alongside Iris would be my dream collaboration. @jade__fashion

www.plymouthart.ac.uk @plymouthcollegeofart

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Fanny wears: Silver hood by FLAPPER, Dress by 16R FIRENZE, Jacket by MUSANI

Photographer: GIULIA SALVADORI @giuliasalvadori.ph| Wardrobe Stylist: CLAUDIA HASA @claudia_hasa | Hair and makeup: ALENA TRIGOLOSOVA @alena.makeupartist | Model: FANNY BUCCHOLZ @fannybuchholz represented by ELITE MODEL MILANO @elitemodelworld

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Mirror Mirror on the wall, who is the chicest of them all. Photographed by Giulia Salvadori.

Styling by Claudia Hasa

Fanny wears: Hat by FLAPPER, Skirt by FILIPPO LA TERZA, Collant by CALZEDONIA, Chemise

by ROBERTA BIAGI

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Fanny wears: Tailleur by FREDERICA LANARI, Golia knit hood by FLAPPER, Ring by MILANO BIJOUX, Heels by CESARE PACIOTTI

Fanny wears: Hat by FLAPPER, Chemise by CETTINA BUCCA, Body by ROBERTA BIAGI,Trousers by REDEMPTION,Heels by CESARE PACIOTTI

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Fanny wears: Hat by FLAPPER, Blazer

by ZARA, Ring by MILANO BIJOUX, Collant by ARCHIVE STYLIST, Skirt

by ROBERTA BIAGI,

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Fanny wears: Hat by FLAPPER, Blazer

by ZARA, Ring by MILANO BIJOUX, Collant by ARCHIVE STYLIST, Skirt by ROBERTA BIAGI, Boots by CESARE PACIOTTI

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Fanny wears: Silver hood by FLAPPER, Dress by 16R FIRENZE, Jacket by MUSANI, Earrings by MILANO BIJOUX, Collant by ARCHIVE STYLIST, Boots

by CESARE PACIOTTI

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Fanny wears: Hat by FLAPPER, Earrings

by MILANO BIJOUX,Tailleur by POMANDERE,Heels by ABSENSE

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Fabulous fluro is a trend that is here to stay, only question is are you daring enough to embrace it?

Photographed by Gala Regnault. Styling by Carolina Omana

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NEON NEON

WAVES

Photographer: GALA REGNAULT @galaphotographer | Wardrobe Stylist: CAROLINA OMANA @caro_omana | Designer and brand: UVA SPORT @uvasport | Hair and makeup: MARINA MONTERO @vane_2393 | Makeup Artist: BLAS MORENO @blas11moreno | Model: GEMA Z @gema_mst, ASIA MILO @asiamilo, VANESSA ALEJANDRINA @vane_2393

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Stand out in the scenic greenery; here are some alluring feminine looks perfect for the summer garden parties. Photographed by Alexandra Mascia. Styling

by Silvia Carbonero

Floraison Photographer: ALEXANDRA MASCIA @alexandramasciaph | Model: POLLY @apolltr represented by NUMBER MANAGMENT @number_ management and PREMIUM MODEL AGENCY @premium_models | Wardrobe stylist: SILVIA CARBONERO | Makeup and hair: CRISTIANA CAGLIERI | Photography assistant: EMMANUEL CONGIU

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Polly wears: (this page) Dress by AMY LYNN, hat by STRADIVARIUS. (Opposite page) Dress by ZARA, earrings by STRADIVARIUS.

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Polly wears: Dress by ASOS

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Polly wears: Dress by AVAVAV FIRENZE, headband by ZARA

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Polly wears: Dress by AVAVAV FIRENZE, headband by ZARA

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Polly wears: Dress by ZARA, shorts by TEZENIS

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Ana wears: 80s Silk dress by WEIST VINTAGE COUTURE

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Reinvent the vintage look with a modern twist. Merge prints from the eras passed and exaggerated shoulders with modern makeup to create these desirable on-trend looks. Photographed by Julio Paniagua. Styling by Begoña García

VINTAGE VINTAGEZEST ZEST Photographer: JULIO PANIAGUA @juliopaniaguaphoto | Model: ANA CAMPO @anitatallgirl at UNO MODELS @unomodels | Makeup and hair: YUREMA VILLA @yuremamakeupartist | Wardrobe stylist: BEGOÑA GARCÍA @begogarar | Photography assistant: MIGUEL NOZAL | Digital retoucher: JUAN ABRIL @juanabrilr afi 93

Ana wears: Patterned jacket by LOEWE, earrings by WEIST VINTAGE COUTURE

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Ana wears: Raspberry dress with peplum, earrings and bracelets by WEIST VINTAGE COUTURE

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Ana wears: 80s Silk dress by WEIST VINTAGE COUTURE

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Ana wears: Knitted 80’s suit by PERTEGAZ from WEIST VINTAGE COUTURE

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Ana wears: Saharan camouflage top, golden chains and earrings from WEIST VINTAGE COUTURE

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Ana wears: Pants and body by ESCADA, Americana from WEIST VINTAGE COUTURE

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Ilma wears: Jacket by VINTAGE, Shirt

by ULRIKA LUNDGREN, Skirt by BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

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GESTALTA This Scandi editorial explores the relationship between form, patterns and structure in a beautiful display. Photographed by David Gabrielron.

Styled by Karolina Vertus Photographer: DAVID GABRIELRON @studiogabrielron [Harvest Agency @harvestagency]Â | Wardrobe Stylist: KAROLINA VERTUS @k.vertus | Hair and Makeup: AMELIE HOLMBERG @amelieholmberg [Agency Bigoudi @agency_bigoudi] | Model: ILMA represented by MIKAS @ mikasstockholm

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Ilma wears: Jacket by VINTAGE, Pants by VINTAGE, Top by BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

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Ilma wears: Top by BILD, Shirt by GRIFONI, Skirt by VINTAGE LEVIS, Shoes by GANNI,Bag by A.P.C

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Ilma wears: Pants by VINTAGE, Skirt Rika by ULRIKA LUNDGREN, Jeans Jacket by A.P.C, Bag by A.P.C

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Ilma wears: Shirt by BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN, Jacket by VINTAGE

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Shari wears: Scarf by VINTAGE, Dress by HANA SUNG

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An ode to the pre-Raphaelites. This editorial features a modern day goddess.

Photography by Marcos Rodríguez Velo Styling by Kristina Okan

Blossom Photographer: MARCOS RODRÍGUEZ VELO @marcos_rodriguezvelo | Model: SHARI JUNAID @shari.jnd represented by BEAUTY MODEL MANAGEMENT @Beautymodelmanagement | Wardrobe stylist and set design: KRISTINA OKAN @kristina_okan | Makeup: SOPHIE PETERS @isabelsophiemakeup

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Shari wears: Stylist own Jacket, Sweater by UNITED COLORS OF BENETON, Tights by CALZEDONIA, Ring by MINERAL WEATHER

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Shari wears: Sweater by UNITED COLORS OF BENETON, Ring by MINERAL WEATHER

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Shari wears: Jacket by ESCADA, Top by WEEKDAY, Skirt by HANA SUNG

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Shari wears: Jacket by ZARA, Top by BERSHKA

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Shari wears: Gloves by AGENT PROVOCATEUR, Tights by CALZEDONIA, Bottom by WEEKDAY, Top by BERSHKA

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solo

Photographer: LACEY FISHER @laceyfisher__ | Makeup artist: ANA COSTA @anacostamua | Hair and Makeup: GHADA NOUH @ghadanouhofficial | Model: CINDY NING & CHARLOTTE BARGE @Wink Models

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