Afi
VOL.4 ISSUE 3
FASHION WEEK SPECIAL
magazine
LET’S TALK ECO KOOL & KONSCIOUS EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH FOUNDERS OF THE WORLDS FIRST AND LARGEST SUSTAINABLE ONLINE MARKETPLACE
VANS X SANDY LIANG SANDY LIANG MERGES A DREAMY 90’S AESTHETIC WITH VANS CLASSIC STREET DNA
On the runways of
LONDON
FASHIONWEEK
AW20 Collections Paul Costelloe, Rixo x House of Christian Lacroix, Yuhan Wang, Marques Almeida and more On the Cover
THE WOOL CONCERT
featuring Laura Schneider
by Christiane Baumgart
VOL.4 ISSUE 3
Contents 80
74
32
35
70
76
56
18
EDITORIALS “The Wool concert” by Christiane Baumgart P.04 “Feel Wild” by Jeremy Jakubowicz P.20 “Plastic Fantastic” by Dave Tada P.46 “You might find me at the supermarket” by Virginia Di Mauro P.62 “The Other Woman” by Veronika Mielan P.88
InterviewsVans&x Sandy Features Liang P.36 Kool and Konscious P.80 AVN Italy P.96 Alexandra Hakim P.100
London Fashion Week AW2020 04
36
88
86
20
78
87
62
Paul Costelloe P.16 Marques Almeida P.18 Yuhan Wang P.32 Rixo x House of Christian Lacroix P.35 IA London P.56 Edeline Lee P.58 Eftychia P.60 Flare Street P.70 Paula Knorr P.74 Louis de Gama P.76 Mark Fast P.78 Fashion Hong Kong P.86 Malan Breton P.106 Johnstons of Elgin P.108
Contributors 16
106
46
96
100
74
60
108
Christiane Baumgart, Laura Schneider, Georgia Dimitriou, Irina Wins, Elena Monti, Antonio Ariganello, Michela Lebowitz, Giordana Pieri, Virginia Di Mauro, Veronika Mielan, Victoriya Shilova, Mariya Loktionova, Ana Kartlelshvili, Olga Gorbach’eva, Alexandra Linskaya, Jeremy Jakubowicz,Victoria Soullier, Yulia Moatti, Olga Lozytskaya, Julien Matha. With thanks to POP PR, ASV Comms, Spring London, Fabric PR, HPR agency, 1Granary, NAMES LDN, Seven Dials, We Are Raven Agency, KCD worldwide and Canoe PR
VOL.4 ISSUE 3
editor's Note Dear Readers
ON THE COVER Photography and retouch: CHRISTIANE BAUMGART @christiane.baumgart | Model: LAURA SCHNEIDER from East West Models @ eastwestmodels | Hair and Makeup: GEORGIA DIMITRIOU @georgiadmakeupartist | Wardrobe stylist: IRINA WINS @stylist_winsirina
Editor-in-Chief - Conrad Lee Fashion Editor - Stef Carter Beauty Editor - Luciana Petrossian
www.bit.ly/afimag
SUBSCRIBE NOW DIGITAL & PRINT
And so the time has come once again for the season of fashion weeks. Despite all the fears of the coronavirus outbreak and the speculations of its effect on the fashion industry, the fashion shows during London fashion week were still packed and very well attended. Unsurprisingly, there were a few facemasks seen on the streets worn as blinged up fashion statements. I was a little surprised that there were hardly any hand sanitisers seen at the events, which from my point of view as a medic were perhaps a little overlooked in such a large event full of people from all nations. I want to get the important message across here is that everyone should pay attention to hand hygiene, and everyone has a role to protect themselves and others. Nonetheless, this fashion week for me was enjoyable. Many great and inventive collections. In particular, it was great to see an increasing effort into fashion sustainability by the designers - such as Yuhan Wang with her use of deadstock lace in her collection, and Flare street with their use of sustainable mulled organic cotton. To reinforce this, we felt that it would be a great opportunity in this issue to interview some creatives with a real passion for sustainability - Kool and Koncious (p.80) is one the worlds first and largest online makertplace for sustainable clothing and accessories with complete transparency of their designers production process. Alexandra Harkem (p.100) is an upcoming jewellery designer who crafts beautiful rustic jewellery from old forgotten items. I hope you will find their work interesting and perhaps spark up a passion to become more eco-friendly too. Lastly, and as always, a huge thank you to our contributors in this issue for some really stunning editorials. Our future issues in-print are about to become more theme based so do keep an eye on our submissions page. We look forward to sharing more creative work in the future.
JOIN US ON SOCIAL MEDIA
I wish everyone well, and stay safe. Copyright Š. All rights reserved. No content within this publication is to be reproduced in any form without explicit written permission from afi magazine. Opinions and views of contributors are their own and not necessarily those of the publishers. Afi magazine reserves the right to edit any submitted material if required and is not liable for any errors/omissions.
Conrad Lee (Editor-In-Chief)
afi 3
When it’s cold outside, we like to get cosy and comfortable by warming ourselves up under a nice wool blanket, wear our favourite winter wool socks or jump into our warmest and softest wool sweater. Photographed by Christiane Baumgart. Styling by Irina Wins
4 afi
Laura wears: Trench coat by JADED LONDON.
The
Laura wears: Blanket by HANDMADE FAMILY OUNI, BERLIN
Wool Concert Photography and retouch: CHRISTIANE BAUMGART @christiane.baumgart Model: LAURA SCHNEIDER from EAST WEST MODELS @eastwestmodels Hair and Makeup: GEORGIA DIMITRIOU @georgiadmakeupartist Wardrobe stylist: IRINA WINS @stylist_winsirina
afi 5
Laura wears: Blouse by FABIENNE CHAPOT. Trousers/Pullover by LAZY OAF. Jacket by SCOTCH & SODA.Overknees by GUESS. Ankle Boots by L’AUTRE CHOSE
6 afi
Laura wears: Top by MARC CAIN, Blazer by PAUL SMITH
afi 7
8 afi
Laura wears: Sweater and trousers by CHAMPION, Pumps by VERSACE JEANS COUTURE
afi 9
Laura wears: Pullover by FRED PERRY. Jacket by LEON & HARPER. Skirt by VERSACE COLLECTION
10 afi
Laura wears: Blanket by HANDMADE FAMILY OUNI, BERLIN
afi 11
Laura wears: Pullover by MARC CAIN. Coat by 2ND DAY
12 afi
Laura wears: Jacket by RECLAMED VINTAGE INSPIRED. Skirt by MARC CAIN.
afi 13
Laura wears: Trench coat by JADED LONDON. Pump by EVEN & ODD
14 afi
afi 15
2020 London fashion week
P AU L C O S T E
The historic brand takes a new direction with the modern woman in mind, integrating graphic sports luxe pieces
16 afi
Every legend in fashion understands you must move and adapt with the times, which is precisely what Paul Costelloe has done with his new AW2020 collection. High-tech bodysuits were developed for the modern city woman, conscious of her health and appearance. Costelloe got the inspiration from his morning cycle to the office, seeing women in casual and comfortable attire. With this notion in mind he has produced a collection that is wearable, functional and made to “make life easier on the treadmill of fashion.” These sports luxe bodysuits and leggings boasted bright hues and graphic prints which were designed by his son William. Sportswear is not something we’ve seen from the designer before, but a welcomed addition to his extensive repertoire.
L L O AW20 E
“
Winter is dark and bold and rich
CHEEKY HIGHLIGHTS Cheeks were lightly contoured and finished with Kevyn Aucoin Crystal Clear Glass Glow FaceHighlighter
“Winter is dark and bold and rich” says Costelloe which reflected the chosen palette of ink, latte, antique gold, chocolate, slate grey and bursts of cloud blue. The colours worked harmoniously through the collection presenting themselves in rich wool coats, Costelloe’s signature red carpet gowns, ready to wear tailored separates, and soft leather handbags. The success of Costelloe’s collection is always within the tailoring. He is a master of his craft, which definitively shows in statement shoulders, billowing silk gowns, ruffles, and sleek silhouettes. He has excellently learned how to balance maximalist shapes and prints into feminine and sensationally covetable gowns. This show is and always will be a highlight for me.
Key makeup by Yin Lee, with AOFM Pro team using Dermalogica and Kevyn Aucoin. Hair by Indira Schauwecker with Toni and Guy team. Nails by Sophia Stylianou and team.
Words by Stef Carter Photography by Everynight Images via Trace PR.
afi 17
2020 London fashion week
MA RQU E S A L M E I DA AW20 Chic rainbow printed kick flares met with oversized fur lapels and acid wash denim. The design duo presented an ode to feminine youth in this euphoric motley collection.
Words by Stef Carter. Images courtesy of Marques Almeida
The fresh makeup looks were created by MAC team lead by Director of Makeup Artistry Terry Barber. Terry explains that the light effect around the eye is very much innocent and sweet, with dappling effects like when sunlight hits the water.
INNOCENT AND SWEET A glittering eye effect was created using MAC iridescent loose glitter applied from lashes to brow. A simple swipe of lip conditioner creates the smooth natural looking lips.
From behind a cloud of smoke to the tune of Pachelbel’s Canon, marched the first MA girl in a custom rainbow printed jacquard piece made in collaboration with artist Paul Anderson Morrow. The dreamy rainbow printed pieces faded to darker tones and stiffer ruffled dresses as the collection presented an edgier undertone and a shift in reference point. This is an ode to the HBO series Euphoria. The programme is loaded with teenage tribulations and an incredible wardrobe which references a variety of youth culture throughout the ages. “I think we finally understood that all the references and research we had played with in the past are only free and powerful enough now when completely carelessly mixed.” Which is precisely what the show offered. From the aggressive statement phase and teenage angst, emerged oversized
18 afi
faux fur jackets with statement lapels set against monochrome stripes, oversized hoodies with printed trainers, to acid wash denim that took the form of oversized yellow “suits” and jeans - an ode to the brands initial grungy foundations. Muddled in-between these looks were oversized knitwear – like it had been borrowed from their older sisters or mothers wardrobe and paired with chunky black boots. The duo also produced stunning ruffled slips and capacious printed silk dresses to show a more mature option at a time where the youth experiment with different styles and grown up approaches.
“
There was an overwhelming message of freedom and exploration for the youth – explore volumes, sizes, prints, textures and wear it all at once in a statement of individuality or curate it carefully with a mature attitude.
There was an overwhelming message of freedom and exploration for the youth
GRITTY AND PRETTY
The M’A girl can stomp freely into the future with the option of on- trend chunky boots, or opt for an elegant printed stiletto boot. As for arm candy? She can choose from a baby soft pink box bag, or opt for a cutesy fur lined bag.
afi 19
Photographer: JEREMY JAKUBOWICZ @jeremyjakubo | Model: VICTORIA SOULLIER @vic__s from ENJOY MODELS AGENCY @enjoymodelsagency |Wardrobe stylist: YULIA MOATTI @yuliamoatti_stylist |Makeup Artist: OLGA LOZYTSKAYA @onedayhero_makeup | Hairstylist: JULIEN MATHA @julienmathacoiffeur
Bold and elegant styles combine to create the image of a powerful woman. The type who is in charge of her destiny and roams free with confidence. Photographed by Jeremy Jakubowicz. Styling by Yulia Moatti
20 afi
fee w
el wild afi 21
Victoria wears: Dress by ROTATE
22 afi
Victoria wears: Dress by ROTATE, boots by STUART WEITZMAN
afi 23
Victoria wears: Top by YASYA MINOCHKINA
24 afi
Victoria wears: Shirt by ALEXA CHUNG, Corset by NADIA PISKUN
afi 25
Victoria wears: Whole look by YASYA MINOCHKINA
26 afi
afi 27
Victoria wears: Whole outfit by SUNDRESS
28 afi
Victoria wears: Sweeter by ACNE STUDIO, Jeans by ZARA, Shoes by MANGO
afi 29
Victoria wears: Dress by SUNDRESS, Corset by NADIA PISKUN, Jacket by YULIA MOATTI, Boots by STUART WEITZMAN
30 afi
Victoria wears: Whole outfit by SUNDRESS
afi 31
2020 London fashion week Despite obvious references to the departure of life, Wangs first independent show was full of hope and strength - affirming her place on the LVMH’s shortlist for Young Fashion Designers award
Yuhan Wang “WHO FELL ASLEEP” AW20
Emerging from under the banner of Fashion East where the designer has previously been incubated, Wang opened London Fashion Week with a sombre and impactful collection. It had a number of influences, namely Victorian silhouettes and the rituals of mourning and funeral ceremonies. It was also a direct reflection of the turbulent times in China where the Corona virus affected the collection. “I’m impacted personally - some of our hand embroidery is done in China and much of the collection hasn’t been delivered in time - but of course none of that really matters. It’s all put into perspective when you consider the way others have been impacted.” Wang poetically fuses East and
MOURNING LACES
32 afi
Soft modern lacing pays homage to Victorian mourning rituals and adds an air of femininity to the walking suits.
West fashions from delicate feminine sensibility to time warped Victorian silhouettes. Deadstock lace is remodelled into capelets, fanciful lace dresses, and frothy collars. Redefined walking suits consisted of fishtail skirts and fitted jackets in printed jacquards, displaying Wang’s excellent tailoring
TRANQUIL HUES Soft hued water lilies imprinted on a short pile dressing gown coat gave a soft elegance to the collection
“
In the Victorian era young, strong minded women prepared for death in life incorporating symbols and black lace in special occasion attire. That foresight is invaluable in cherishing life in the now.
skills. Her famous sinuous shapes were beautifully displayed in an emerald silk gown that closed the collection. Despite reporting missing elements, it did not show as the show was purposefully styled and sensibly curated. Subtle pearl jewellery, delicate beaded bags and veiled mourning hats unified the collection and confirmed Wang’s highly successful, first solo show.
Words by Stef Carter via We Are Raven agency
INSPIRATIONS ON DISPLAY Pastel brocade coats adorned with flowers symbolised vitality in her native Chinese culture. This light and bright cornflower blue brought a sense of optimism to the collection.
afi 33
2020 London fashion week
Dream collaboration brings Rixo and legendary House of Lacroix together for a vibrant and modern twist on the iconic archives of vintage Lacroix prints
RIXO
&
HOUSE OF CHRISTIAN LACROIX
AW20
34 afi
In the grand settings of the Kimpton Fitzroy London Hotel’s ballroom, a luxuriously flamboyant Marie Antoinette party occured; where Rixo displayed their autumn/ winter 2020 collection in collaboration with the French fashion powerhouse Christian Lacroix. The British fashion duo, Rixo founders Henrietta Rix and Orlagh McCloskey took on this
INSPIRATIONS ON DISPLAY Five original Lacroix couture pieces that inspired the RIXO collection were featured as an installation in the grand ballroom of Kimpton Fitzroy London Hotel, curated by V&A’s Stephanie Wood.
The Lacroix DNA is so in tune with RIXO’s – their vibrant visual prints and their completely individual and empowering viewpoint
on style
‘dream come true’ collaboration taking inspiration from the archives of couture Lacroix prints to create this modern limited-edition capsule collection. “Being let loose in the House of Christian Lacroix archive in Paris to delve into the true history and DNA of the brand was awe-inspiring. The Lacroix DNA is so in tune with RIXO’s – their vibrant visual prints and their completely individual and empowering viewpoint on style- it felt natural to collaborate,” Orlagh says. In the background of harpist and orchestral music, stood models of all ages and sizes adored with vibrant
colours and prints that were unmistakably silhouettes of Lacroixs designs. A rhapsodic combination of florals, polka dots, checks and diagonal stripes flowed effortlessly together with details of butterfly appliqués, statement gold buttons, embellished jewels and pleated ruffles. The feminine colour palette of sunset pink, mixed with punchy splashes of sapphire blue and butterscotch yellow gave an array of spectacular colours that were flirty and fun. With these outfits styled with original Lacroix handbags, vintage fans and statement jewellery, these 19 looks encapsulated the ethos of both brands, from the opulence of Lacroix to the contemporary free spirits of Rixo. Photography and words by Conrad Lee, via KCD worldwide
afi 35
Vans Partners with New York Designer, Sandy Liang to Debut Footwear, Apparel and Accessories Collection
Words by Stef Carter
36 afi
Photography by Jack Bool via Canoe PR.
afi 37
38 afi
The born and bred New York designer presents her first Vans collaboration consisting of five takes on the classic Vans sneaker and nine pieces of apparel and accessories. Liang is known for her covetable, dreamy and nostalgic edge and has infused this aesthetic into the collection with a play on materials. The Vans platform slip on has been covered in snow leopard fur in a playful take on the classic sporty silhouette. For a feminine and edgy offering Liang made over the Vans Old Skool shape with soft pink velour and decorated with metal jewels – Firmly placing it on every it-girls wishlist.
course works perfectly in conjunction with the sneaker collaboration. An oversized boyfriend hoody worn with the midnight navy snakeskin cycling shorts is the pinnacle of on trend comfortable dressing with the perfect dose of nostalgia. A lotus pink jumpsuit with riveting detail has the zip code of Chinatown giving a nod to Liang’s creative hub and will look great paired with the shearling bag, or the bum bag from the accessories range. This collection is a more affordable price point that Lang’s own label and is perfect for adding on-trend nostalgic designer pieces to your wardrobe.
The apparel is just as covetable, and of
afi 39
Bucket hat in midnight Navy
40 afi
Long sleeve tee in asphalt
Era in Orchard and true white
Cross body bag in marshmallow
afi 41
42 afi
Tank top in asphalt
Vans x Sandy Liang Classic slip-on platform in true white
Plush pant in asphalt
afi 43
44 afi
Vans x Sandy Liang Oldskool sneakers and socks in blush pink
afi 45
Photographer: DAVE TADA @analogpics | Stylist: TOSH YANEZ @thefashioncoven | Makeup: NICHOLE SERVIN @thenicholeservin | Hair: COLEMAN MORRIS @ hairbycolescott | Model: ELLIANA YORK @ellianacapri at SELECT MODELS @ selectmodellosangeles | Assistant stylist: THOMAS OGDEN @artdefashion
Elliana wears: Jacket by DIFFUSE. Blouse by MANOUSH. Latex Pants by SYREN. Boots by EGO. Makeup using URBAN DECAY
46 afi
plastic fantastic Vivid neon lights shine bright on this creative collection of statement pieces. Photographed by Dave Tada . Styling by Tosh Yanez
Elliana wears: Jacket by DIFFUSE. Blouse by MANOUSH. Latex Pants by SYREN. Boots by EGO. Makeup using URBAN DECAY
afi 47
Elliana wears: PVC vinyl trench by DOMDRICH STUDIO. Black top by ROBERTO CAVALLI. Skirt by JEREMY SCOTT. Boots by EGO. Socks by URBAN OUTFITTERS
48 afi
Elliana wears: Dress by STYLEWE, Jelly Bow- Arte de Fashion by THOMAS OGDEN, Boots by EGO
afi 49
Elliana wears: Dress and Apron - Arte de Fashion by THOMAS OGDEN
50 afi
Elliana wears: Dress by STYLEWE, Jelly Bow- Arte de Fashion by THOMAS OGDEN, Boots by EGO
afi 51
Elliana wears: Jacket by BAO TRANCHI. Latex gloves and pants by SYREN. Boots by DOC MARTIN
52 afi
Elliana wears: PVC vinyl trench by DOMDRICH STUDIO. Black top by ROBERTO CAVALLI. Skirt by JEREMY SCOTT. Boots by EGO. Socks by URBAN OUTFITTERS
afi 53
Elliana wears: Dress and Apron - Arte de Fashion by THOMAS OGDEN
54 afi
Elliana wears: Jacket by BAO TRANCHI. Latex gloves and pants by SYREN. Boots by DOC MARTIN
afi 55
BEDlam AW20
Step inside the walls of a psychiatric hospital where bedlam breaks loose and the patient’s adorn avant-garde works of art by IA London
This avant-garde label never fails to disappoint for the fusion of dramatic storylines, immaculate tailoring and digitally printed artworks. This season designer Ira Iceberg takes us on a journey of confusion and chaos as she drew inspiration from the historical London Landmark Bethlem Royal Hospital which was commonly referred to as Bedlam. This was fused with inspiration from Ken Kesey’s “One Flew Over The Cuckoo’s Nest” which depicted asylums as a mechanism designed to de-face and break patients. The pieces themselves were made up
56 afi
Words by Stef Carter via ASV Comms. Photos by Conrad Lee
2020 London fashion week
of works of art made by Iceberg. The beautiful abstract paintings were set against black fabrics which ensured the colour palette popped. When taken out of the dramatic scenery there were certainly ready to wear pieces, including a beautiful butterfly printed quilted coat. Iceberg’s shift dresses made a reappearance except with new artworks to admire. It was a sensory overload at times with flashing lights, disturbing music, muttering audio and models that twitched and jerked in unpredictable manners. Models were wrapped in plastic sheeting and taken into the corner of the presentation for evaluation which added dramatic effect to the display. There was a poignant message throughout as to what mental health means today and how easy it is to stand by and watch.
ELECTRIFYING WAVES Behind the avant garde hair styles is creative genius Indira Schauwecker. With her Toni &Guy Session team, they created these electrifying looks to reflect the shock treatments used within the 13th century psychiatric hospitals. Using Label.m Gel, these stylishly placed finger waves signify the uneven mentality of the patients.
afi 57
2020 London fashion week
EDELINE LEE
AW20 Edeline Lee rips the script on traditional presentations in this mesmerising and empowering performance At the forefront of celebrating women you will find Edeline Lee. Her collections are defined by an aesthetically sophisticated signature, precisely cut to complement the female figure. When you pair this designer with award winning director Josie Rourke you know it is going to be a powerful presentation. Set in the grand Apollo theatre, the lights darken and models begin to appear across the stage in a series of choreographed vignettes as narrators Theo James and Rebecca Trehearn pastiche literary descriptions of women. One moment a model is sauntering on stage and the next, the spotlight swivels to a model draped over the edge of the dress circle. The models move with the melodic narrations, and the garments follow suit. There is a mixture of
powerful daytime dresses, and evening gowns in dark and berry tones mixed with a pop of bright blues. The fine and lightweight fabrics added to the soft feminine allure and worked well with the performance. An unforgettable moment was a billowing ruffled style gown that the model swayed in, showing off the full voluminosity of its skirt, sending the audience wild to get the perfect snap. The entire experience was enthralling and left you hanging on every word of the narration, eager to see more. The performance ended with a model ripping up the script, a play on the expression no doubt for how the tables are turning in female equality.
Words by Stef Carter via HPR Agency
58 afi
Photography credit to Nick Payne Cook
afi 59
THIS
WAY
TO
EFTYCHIA AVIOPOLIS AW20
For the travelling woman who commands attention with her powerful aura 60 afi
Words by Stef Carter via 1Granary
Picture a sleek airport lounge with rigid leather seats, harsh bright lights and distant hums of announcements and the tapping of laptops. This season the Eftychia woman can be seen dressing powerfully, but with tailoring that is more accommodating for a comfortable and casual appearance. Camels, greys and browns sit with hints of brick and orange in androgynous silhouettes for the travelling business woman. There are hints of a 70s aesthetic paired with modern shoulder construction in a smooth fusion that makes for a dynamic collection. The confusion to a reference period is purposeful as Eftychia wanted garments
that exist in a sort of non-place, transcending time and trends – as airport trends often do. The rich earthy tones made for a unified collection, and when married with the technical fabrications made this a functional offering too. The label has gathered notoriety for the designers suiting and this season introduced a notch lapel and blazer pockets which the models casually tucked their hands into. The designer places focus entirely on the wearer and has superbly perfected the construction of her garments, staking her place firmly as a label that is here to stay, bypassing fleeting trends.
afi 61
Photography: VIRGINIA DI MAURO| Wardrobe stylist: ELENA MONTI @elenamontistylist and ANTONIO ARIGANELLO @antonio_ariganello_stylist | Hair and makeup: MICHELA LEBOWITZ @michelalebowitz | Model: GIORDANA PIERI @ giodanapieri | Model agency: FASHION MODEL MANAGEMENT @fashionmodel.it
YOU MIGHT FIND ME Giordana wears: Dress by SE-TA. Feather coat by DAVORIN CORDONE. Gloves by DUECCI GLOVES.
AT THE SUPERMARKET 62 afi
Giordana wears: Dress by VENTOTTO MAGGIO. Hat by LEONTINE VINTAGE. Belt by SALAR MILANO. Gloves by DUECCI GLOVES. Shoes by FABIO RUSCONI.
Have you ever been inspired by the multiple colours inside a grocery store? Here is how to take glam to the next level for your next food shopping trip. Photographed by Virginia Di Mauro. Styling by Elena Monti and Antonio Ariganello afi 63
64 afi
(left) Giordana wears: Dress by ALCOOLIQUE. Jacket by COLLINI MILANO. Belt by SALAR MILANO.
Giordana wears: Top by MARIO DICE. Pants by TPN. Circlet by LEONTINE VINTAGE. Shoes by ANNA BAIGUERA.
afi 65
Giordana wears: Shirt by MARTINA CELLA. Skirt by TPN. Bag and shoes by SALAR MILANO.
66 afi
Giordana wears: Jumpsuit by MARIO DICE.
afi 67
68 afi
Giordana wears: Dress by VENTOTTO MAGGIO. Gloves by DUECCI. Shoes by ALBERTO AUDENINO.
Giordana wears: Look by ALBINO TEODORO. Circlet by LEONTINE VINTAGE. Gloves by DUECCI GLOVES. Shoes by ALBINO TEODORO.
afi 69
Giordana wears: Look by MARTINA CELLA. Hat by LEONTINE VINTAGE. Bag and shoes by SALAR MILANO.
70 afi
YOU MIGHT FIND ME
AT THE SUPERMARKET
afi 71
2020 London fashion week
72 afi
Words by Stef Carter via NAMES LDN
FLARE STREET
AW20
With prints designed by Barbara Hulanicki, this nostalgic brand puts on a psychedelic presentation At Somerset House NAMES LDN presented their collection of designers featuring Melbourne based brand Flare Street. Their latest collection “Ophir” features hand drawn prints by Queen of Biba, Barbara Hulanicki. As you walked into the open space in Somerset house, set against a large open window sat a group of Flare Street models, lounging as you would expect in that of a 70’s boudoir. The rich earth tones, warm teals and neon pinks worked harmoniously in this stunning new collection. The brands signature flares sat alongside bralets and floaty fringe trimmed
kimonos. The brand have also added tailored jackets to their offering which have a sleek black velvet trim, echoed on the flares too. A favourite piece of mine was the tiered maxi skirt with each layer a different colour way from the collection. Such a standout piece that could be styled in a variety of different ways. This collection is eat your heart out vintage, but with a modern relevance. Flare Street mill their organic cotton in Melbourne, source their fabrics locally, print sustainably and garments are made there too!! A great all round brand which combines covetable vintage styles with a modern, sustainable twist.
afi 73
P AU L A K NO R R AW20 Shining bright over London’s skyline, Paula Knorr’s new collection celebrated women and the mighty female form Words by Stef Carter via ASV Comms
On the 38th Floor of the Heron Tower lies fusion restaurant Sushi Samba, the venue for Paula Knorr’s AW2020 collection. The weather could not have been more ideal, the bright sun illuminated the sequin backdrop which reflected the light around the glass room, set against the picturesque London skyline. Knorr used bright palettes which we have come to associate with the brand: bright orange, red and pink were offset to rose and silver metallic shades. Billowing sleeves and ruched gowns glided down the runway and it was clear that sensual, glamour and comfort were at the heart of the design process. Stretch jersey was used to create body-con evening gowns catering to all shapes and sizes. This was a collection to celebrate women and banish unrealistic standards often found in the fashion industry. Johnathan Johnson casted a fantastic line up celebrating strong, powerful and real women of all ages and ethnicities, religions and body shapes which was beyond refreshing.
74 afi
The striking collection was anchored by sustainability. Recycled sequins, eco-responsibly produced silks, and dead stock fabrics were put through pattern cutting techniques that reduce offcuts. Even the sequin backdrop from the show will eventually be fashioned into next seasons offerings.
Photography credit to Shaun James Cox
afi 75
L OU I S DE GA MA
AW20 76 afi
In a comeback show, Louis De Gama showed us the dreamy gowns and fine pleating we’ve been missing
2020 London fashion week
After taking a hiatus from presenting his work, Louis de Gama is back with his first public collection in eight years. Approaching his new collection through a sustainable lens, Gama has created one off garments which are predominantly handmade. This vibrant bohemian collection features hand dyed organic silk and cottons which have been ruched and tiered to create whimsical silhouettes. Vintage lace doilies were hand sewn to create a patchwork body, and many of the looks were layered with caplets, something trending high for AW2020. The adaptable dresses can easily be styled for a polished daytime look, or dressed up for the evening, thus affirming Gama’s sustainable approach of making clothes work across different functions. It is clear that the designer has an exquisite technical capability displayed beautifully in this new concise collection and we look forward to what the future holds for the designer! Words by Stef Carter via POP PR
afi 77
2020 London fashion week
M A R K FA S T
AW20 Fast takes a swing into the sixties with high hemlines, streetwear and of course, his signature gowns This season Mark Fast showed us his versatile design skills and added more ready to wear pieces to sit alongside his distinguished couture gowns. Drawing inspiration from the swinging sixties Fast incorporated mini dresses and leather miniskirts styled with modern gogo-esq boots. The styles were reminiscent of Mary Quant with their standout colour, bold knitwear prints and shag style coats which Fast gave his own spin by adding the brands logo, and mixing camouflage print into traditional knitwear cuts. The streetwear is designed to be unisex as Fast states “I always believed that
my creations could flatter anyone that identified with its style and my style will enhance the figure, age, colour and sex whatever it may be.” Rather than bulky masculine cuts, skirts, jogger bottoms and sweatshirts were created with a more flattering sleek cut. Fast’s shining pieces will always be his signature crochet dresses, with their distinct tactile pile which moves in melodic fashion. It is the unique technique which Fast pioneered which will always be an anchor of his brand, but we are enjoying seeing a wearable approach to the remainder of the collection.
Words by Stef Carter via Spring London
78 afi
Photography credit to Chris Yates Media
afi 79
KOOL INSPIRATORS Founders of Kool and Koncious - Boryana Uzunova and Eva Vucheva. Boryana is a fashion-tech entrepreneur dedicated to mitigating the adverse environmental impact of fashion. Boryana has been recognized as one of the most talented “30 under 30” entrepreneurs by Forbes in 2019 Eva is a digital entrepreneur and experienced business leader. As one of the e-commerce pioneers in the CEE. Eva is a former Co-CEO of Fashion Days Group, a Naspers company and CEE’s leading fashion online store
80 afi
KO OL & KO N S C IOU S Eva Vucheva and Boryana Uzunova, founders of Kool & Konscious tell us about creating the world’s first and largest collection of sustainable fashion products and their journey to make fashion more “circular” Interviewed by Stef Carter, via Fabric PR Founded in Hong Kong in May 2019, Kool and Konscious has been gathering the most creative sustainable brands to create one the world’s biggest online selection of sustainable and ethically sourced fashion products. The “marKKetplace” makes conscious shopping an informed and convenient experience, providing complete transparency of the creation process of every piece sold on site. The “KKollective” has signed over
200 brands that have sustainable and ethical production at heart, including Mother Erth and Kozha Numbers plus up-and-coming British designers, Tobefrank, Gaia London and Lora Gene. Beyond the marketplace, the team has created an “eKKosystem” of partnership networks to promote the transition towards full circularity of the fashion industry from the production through the consumption to the disposal.
afi 81
MOTHER ERTH Artisan’s Choice Mini Woven shoulder bag, and clutch The Bag’s Eco Impact : For the Environment - Depending on it’s size, each item we create keeps between 2 oz to 1 lb of unrecyclable materials from entering our land and oceans-that amount is the equivalent of up to 38 water bottles. For Women - When you purchase a product you provide an artisan mother with a sustainable livelihood which pays three times the average wage in her community.
Hi both! I wanted to start off with getting to know you both, what are your backgrounds and what lead to you both uniting on your Kool and Konscious journey together? Bory: Having moved to Japan early on in my life, I fell in love with the country’s aesthetics and a flair for robotics. Later on, I realised they both drew inspiration from nature’s system and design genius, which has been a philosophy of thinking that stuck with me.
had to touch on every single level of the value chain: from how we grow crops, to how we process textiles and produce garments. Not less important - how do we dispose of the millions of tons of textiles produced each year? The idea for Kool And Konscious started to emerge. Meeting Eva transcended the idea from the draft sheet to the action field. Eva: Unfortunately, I am an entrepreneurial spirit, investor and advisor on several companies in the digital and e-commerce space, including the British Taylor&Hart. In 2010 I got involved in building the largest fashion marketplace in CEE. The company was sold to Naspers in 2012. We achieved quite a substantial growth, reaching 70M EUR annual turnover by the time I left it in 2015. But for me, it was becoming more and more evident the company values did not correspond to my values as a person. The company and I had grown apart. Not only did I see firsthand the result of overconsumption, the impact of the environment, business and on us as human beings, but I actually did my best to nourish it.
Making a real change in fashion’s impact had to touch on every single level of the value chain
82 afi
When I entered university in Hong Kong, I started to come across fashion industry facts that were truly shocking. The back of my mind was constantly incubating possible solutions to solve for it that touched both on aesthetics and robotics. By the time I graduated, we had built MorphX, which is a technology for on-demand perfect fit production of clothing powered by both hardand software. With MorphX, I started to realise how we assemble clothes is still just one part of the puzzle. Making a real change in fashion’s impact
In 2016 I co-founded another company dealing with da-
ta-management. I continued looking for projects related to circular economy and sustainability. A year ago, I met Bory and the idea grew on me. In mid-2019 I joined the project full time. Can you explain the process behind how you select brands to work with; how do you find them, what criteria do you look for? Bory: We have a rigorous vetting process. We research and evaluate every brand before we contact them. We focus on several pillars: how and where the products are made; what materials are used; what’s the afterlife management of the garments. Once on-boarded, the brand will go under ad-hoc secret shopper checks and audits to make sure it complies with our standards for sustainability. Eva: Our ultimate goal is to create a fully circular marketplace. To do that, we are building an ecosystem of suppliers – for example, garment producers, eco-dyes technologies, biodegradable packaging and others. We give our brands access to those technologies and help them design and produce with the thought for an afterlife. Ultimately, we want to be able to collect the clothing back from our customers and dispose of it in a nature-friendly way. To fully close the circle. Like children, you can’t have favourites.. but can you talk about some of your favourite pieces available on the marketplace?
For anyone starting to build a more sustainable life and wardrobe, where do you suggest they start? Eva: As someone who had a massive wardrobe and has now reduced it to several key pieces, I can say it is not very easy. It is a LELA RECYCLED BRASS EARRINGS BY YALA - €63 work in progress and requires some Made from pure recycled brass that has thought. Especially during the sales been cast and hammered by hand, they are securely affixed to 14k gold fill ear pins, period ☺ What I did first was an audit meaning you can comfortably wear them on the things I actually wear. I realised all day long. Made in Nairobi, Kenya. that I have 5 outfits per season which I wear constantly. The rest? Well, they simply never leave my closet. So my first step was to start buying only things that fit me perfectly and make me really happy and excited. No compromises. The second step was the wardrobe clearout. I got rid of things which I no longer needed - some of them I donated, some I sold through second-hand shops or Facebook groups, some I have sent for recycling and some I gave to friends. I love to exchange/ borrow items from friends. Especially for occasional wear.
”
“
Our ultimate goal is to create a fully circular marketplace
THE MINI SAFE WITH SHOULDER STRAP HANDBAG BY KOZHAR - €119 Elegant, shinny and chic. This handcrafted handbag is 100% Box Calf Leather made to order from a small studio in Portland OR. The box calf leather is treated in Southern California, in a factory which consciously practices renewable methods.
Bory: I try to keep a capsule wardrobe. I typically buy timeless minimal pieces which I can mix & match. A few of my absolute favourites are the Nude Utility Bag by Kozha, it goes with everything, and looks incredibly slick. The Rightful Pullover by Rhumaa, one always needs a basic piece that goes with jeans, pants and skirts. The Crimson Cashmere Coat by Francis Stories is again an item that looks sporty and classy at the same time, and the colours are easy to match. Finally, the Noyoco x Diane Organic Cotton Tee is a basic tee with a twist that makes it a special basic for almost any occasion.
My point is, we do not need 200 pieces in our wardrobe, which is the average right now. Instead invest in a few timeBLOSSOM RECYCLED SILVER RING less pieces which look beautiful and have a little something BY HYRV - €135 extra in them. Whether it is that little twist design, or particUsing only recycled silorigin and touching history, so that every time you wear ver, this white ular rhodium plated silver encases it, they build onto your energy. Knowing they are kind to the a moonstone within a flower design Planet makes such outfits that much cooler.
I think for real change to happen, we as consumers should not be punished for choosing sustainable fashion or sustainable way of living for that matter. Fashion is a purchase of the heart – it needs to be exciting and fun. But sustainability and beauty do not have to contradict. This is what we are trying to do with Kool And Konscious – gather all the quality, exciting, beautiful and Planet-friendly sustainable brands under one roof without trading off on design, price and diversity.
Okay into the nitty gritty.. With the vast amount of information available on how damaging the fashion manufacturing processes are and the overall negative impact fashion is having on the planet, why do you think more people aren’t switching to sustainable fashion? Bory: It is a long process, but consumption is changing. According to Nielsen 75% of Millennials are willing to pay premium for sustainably produced products. Yet, the majority of them have not even heard of a sustainable brand. The sustainable fashion industry is too decentralised and opaque at the moment, which I believe is the true reason for not being able to see a sensible change in customer behaviour. Nowadays, customers are spoiled to find and buy everything that is within their walking reach or within a few clicks on their mobile phones. And that is fair, we as a civilisation
afi 83
have achieved this convenience, and sustainable fashion shouldn’t come at a bigger effort. Or in that regard, higher prices, lower diversity or worse quality.
Bory: Circular. We need to start designing products that can be recycled, reused or biodegraded. This is the biggest challenge.
With this Kool And Konscious aspires to make sustainable fashion the norm. It is essential to understand that sustainable fashion is not some sort of an alternative. It is the only way we can continue to exist on this Planet, and that goes for all industries, not just fashion.
Eva: Fashion now finds itself at the exact same spot where the printing industry was some years ago. It will inevitably have to transition to a sustainable model, but the growing pains will be intense. Ultimately we all need to do our bit to support the change. It is not the time for finger-pointing and policing. It will be hard for all – producers, consumers, people employed in the industry. But the solutions and technology are there, and we will get through the crisis with an industry that inspires, excites and is sustainable at the same time.
Is sustainable fashion profitable? Is this a blocker for fast fashion brands that place emphasis on profits rather than the planet? Eva: Forcing a choice between profits and the ARTISAN’S CHOICE MULTICOLOR TOTE BY Planet is not a sustainable MOTHER ERTH - €85 solution. Fashion, in genEthically-produced with minimal waste, each of these eral, is a business where colourful Tote bags are made profitability is not high. with unique patterns. It also provides an artisan mother Even the largest producers three times the average wage in her local community. and brands struggle financially. Big fast-fashion players have down-spiralled in pushing the prices and product-cycles ever down to an extent where the current full-price shelf life of a product is not more than 30 days. To keep up with that, new collections are added on a biweekly basis and are being discounted right after. For one, sustainability can offer a way out for those producers, and they know it. The key fast-fashion players have started changing their business model, turning retail spaces into experience and lounge location, committing to using 100% sustainable fabrics in the foreseeable future, adding second-hand lines and much more. This is excellent news for us at Kool And Konscious and also for the Planet. Change and profitability require specific scale and if big producers are on-board scale will inevitably follow. How do you think we can halt the monster that is fast fashion?
Just like your brands Kozha Numbers and Gnama Studio do you think made to order fashion will become “the norm?” Bory: Yes. The technology for made to order is here – from body scanners, through automated patterning and sewing solutions. Yet, we are in the very early adopter stage of this trend. On the one hand, customers still feel insecure about going through body scanning. Aside from time-consuming, body scanning involves a lot of private data, and many fear it also generates biometrical data, so the resistance is understandable. On the other hand, the existing technologies for on-demand are not quick enough. Guess scale would solve the second issue, yet privacy would be one of the biggest barriers. Eva: Here, Bory and I differ. I think we are still far-away from made-to-order becoming the norm. Partially because fashion is a purchase of the heart, an impulse buy if you will. So before on-demand becomes the norm, we need to be able to produce instantly. However, it will certainly be part of the mix.
Bory: I am a firm believer that information comes first. Once we are informed, we start to care, and when we care, we inevitably act one way or another. It is a long process. But it already shows results. Demand is shifting, and fast fashion is feeling it first.
Do you have any “goal” brands/designers that you would love to work with and welcome into the KK family?
What do you think the future of fashion look like?
Eva: Not to forget front-runners in the radical transparency
84 afi
Bory: We love Grana, Pangaia and Mejuri. Incredible flair for material science, design and business models that we’d love to work closely with.
lane such as Patagonia and Everlane. And of course for any self-respecting shoe lover out there - Rothys and Veja - great combination of technology, aesthetics and price range.
microplastics back in our environment. Altogether, reinforcing the use of natural fibres that are more efficient resource and pollution wise and could degrade naturally, colouring them with bio-derived dyes, and design-
You have some incredible, and ambitious goals over the next three years: “to spare the C02 emitted by 1 million cars collectively driving for 2,500k and spare enough water for over 200,000 people to drink for a year.” How is this going to be measured and how can you use this to encourage other fashion businesses to adopt these measures?
80’S ORGANIC LINEN BLAZER BY VINN - €146 Collarless V-neck blazer designed with hourglass silhouette for a pulled-together look. This blazer is made from woven textured linen and It is so easy mix and match. This relaxed double breasted blazer is detailed with jetted pocket with flaps and sleeve vents with buttoning.
Bory: The savings are distributed across the entire value chain. We are soon to publish an extensive methodology on how each piece saves what it saves. The fundamentals of calculating are: 1) What material is the piece made of? Clearly using textiles derived from more ‘efficient crops’, such as linen, bamboo and algae would result in less water and pesticides inputs as well as CO2 outputs than as compared to cotton and polyester for example. A t-shirt made of algae-derived fibre, for example, takes 2,200l of water and 1kg of chemicals less than a standard cotton t-shirt. Opting for recycled textiles is also a great game-changer in terms of input resources and output pollution. TOBEFRANK, for example, rely on recycled denim, which spares thousands of litres of water and tens of kg of CO2 per pair of jeans! 2) How is textile dyed? Using natural dyes derived from algae, plants, vegetables and fruits are crucial to eliminating the negative impact from dyeing. On average, 40% of the colourants used by status quo fashion contain organically bound chlorine, which is a known cancerogenic. Once the textiles are dyed, the same water from the colour baths is released back to our water systems and oceans - meaning those chemicals make it inadvertently back to us. 3) How textile is sewn together? Even Though 95% of our clothing is ‘recyclable’, only 5% are. Zippers and buttons complicate apparel recycling as the removal of such details call for manual assistance making the process costly and time-consuming. Designing the garments with minimum such details and opting for degradable threads would significantly improve the recyclability factor of clothing, which would indirectly lead to huge resource and pollution savings. For one, we would reuse the fibres, so we won’t commit to using resources for generating new fibres. Second, the textiles won’t be left at landfills, where they are either burned or releasing
MALASPINA VEGAN BLOUSE IN DENIM BLUE BY SIZ - €110 Ethically-produced with vegan products, this denim smocked crop blouse is made from 100% fabric off-cuts
ing with circularity in mind are the three key pillars of generating a meaningful change in fashion’s impact. Lastly, what is your mission and vision for the future of KK Eva: We want to make sustainable fashion an easy choice. KK aims to become the first circular fashion marketplace, where customers are empowered through high-quality premium products, designed to save your style and the Planet.
afi 85
2020 London fashion week
East meet West, Fashion Hong Kong showcases some of the most talented Hong Kong based fashion designers
BLIND BY JW Blind by JW is a Womenswear and accessories fashion label founded in 2012 by Jessica Lau and Walter Kong. Their AW 2020 collection “Your game is bigger than your reality” has a strong city look which merges different city cultures by infusing elements of British tailoring with elements of Asian wrapping. This playful collection with modern touches such as printed interactive QR codes was an enticement for people to go out and explore more..
Drawing from the ideas generated from the inspiring city of Hong Kong, Organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, Fashion Hong Kong returns to London Fashion Week to present some of the most distinctive Hong Kong based fashion designers and their autumn winter 2020 collections at the Somerset House to a global audience.
Photography and words by Conrad Lee, via WeAreVillage
YEUNG CHIN
86 afi
Within a dark room of theatrical drama, Yeung Chin drew inspiration from his grandmother’s funeral for his AW20 collection “You bring light to the darkness”. This collection questions death – is it grief of separation or a hope of reunion? The ideas resulted in a collection that embodied the Asian and Western fashion and cultures, for example having oriental cutting deconstructed with Victorian corset. On a sobering yet peaceful background of Namo Amitabha Buddha chants, the collection illustrated new interpretations of life and death with a deep meaning in keeping with Yeung Chin’s design philosophy of deconstruction to create new concepts.
BETTIE HAUTE COUTURE Bettie Jiang graduated from London College of Fashion with a master degree focusing on future’s fashion which inspired her to take sustainability as the core value of her fashion practice. From paper pattern design to fabric cutting, Bettie works on zero wastage during her production. After receiving her degrees, she worked at the fashion studio of Alexander McQueen and had exceptional experiences in bespoke British tailoring. Her style is “Simple But Not Boring”, stylish but not over the top. The complex details in Betties’ bespoke pieces are always subtle as seen in her “Awaken” collection. Blending two distinctively yet highly differentiated traditional British fabrics of Tartan and Blazer Stripes, Bettie created unique ladies wear that looks sophisticated and contemporary. Combining asymmetric draping with flowing silk with hand drawn printed ornamentation, the results was a combustion of unique shapes and silhouettes.
ANGUS TSUI With a vision to bridge high fashion with sustainability, Angus founded his namesake brand ANGUS TSUI in 2014. He has worked directly with companies such as Swire Properties, Cathay Pacific and H&M to create up-cycled uniforms and accessories via sustainable processes. His styles are experimental, futuristic and visionary. On a futuristic post-apocalyptic set at Summerset house, his “•••• - - - - - •” (HOME in Morse code) collection presented an array of digital prints and sculptural cuttings that reminded us of Hollywood franchises such as Star Trek and Star Wars. Styled with tights that resemble robotic joints and accessorised with highly detailed aesthetics, this cyberpunk feel was certainly youthful, fun and energetic. This avant garde collection perhaps even gives us an insight into what futuristic sustainable fashion looks like one day on Mars.
afi 87
Olga wears: Coat by H&M. Tights by CALZEDONIA. Earrings by ALEXASHKA ACCESSORIES. Hat and boots are stylists own
88 afi
Photography: VERONIKA MIELAN @veronika_mielan | Wardrobe stylist: VICTORIYA SHILOVA @madame_shi | Makeup artist: MARIYA LOKTIONOVA @loktionova_ | Hair stylist: ANA KARTLELSHVILI @keratin_ rnd | Model: OLGA GORBACH’EVA @olivvintage | Model agency: DOM MODELS @donmodels_russia | Earrings designer: ALEXANDRA LINSKAYA @alexashka.accessories
This season, create a powerful look by playing with reflective fabrics, clashing prints and layering them together.. Photographed by Veronika Mielan. Styling by Victoriya Shilova
The other
Woman afi 89
Olga wears: Jacket by MOHITO. Dress by H&M. Earrings by ALEXASHKA ACCESSORIES. Hat and boots are stylists own
90 afi
Olga wears: Jacket by MOHITO. Dress by H&M. Earrings by ALEXASHKA ACCESSORIES. Hat and boots are stylists own
afi 91
Olga wears: Jacket and trousers by H&M. Boots by RESERVED. Earrings by ALEXASHKA ACCESSORIES. Turtleneck and hat are stylists’ own
92 afi
Olga wears: Jacket and trousers by H&M. Boots by RESERVED. Earrings by ALEXASHKA ACCESSORIES. Turtleneck and hat are stylists’ own
afi 93
Olga wears: Jacket by RESERVED. Leggings by H&M. Earrings by ALEXASHKA ACCESSORIES. Turtleneck, hat and boots are stylists’ own
94 afi
Olga wears: Jacket by RESERVED. Leggings by H&M. Earrings by ALEXASHKA ACCESSORIES. Turtleneck, hat and boots are stylists’ own
afi 95
96 afi
SS20 Italian born brand AVN offers clean designs with a playful twist. We sit down with the founders to discover more about this new wave brand written by Stef Carter, via Limitee PR
What does your design process look like - How does sustainability play a part in where do you get your inspiration from? your brand? Our process is so natural for us. Gianfilippo was born in fashion industry and grow up in a fashion factory, Caterina, his wife and co-designer of AVN, start to work in the same factory with Gianfilippo and both take from each other the enthusiasm and the power to build up AVN. They take inspiration from traveling around the world not as tourist but more like a global social trend explores that fine tuning all the input received and give to this a special cool synthesis. What is the type of woman you envision wearing your garments? The woman AVN want to catch is international self-conscious and world respecting girl. no nation, no religion, no discrimination but the narrow minded people, open to innovation and progress a woman that walk in the present and looking at the future with hope.
We produce with a sustainability objective. Everything is produced in Italy at max 100km from our HQ, we take care of the choice of each fabric with the aim to give to our children a better future of respect of our world. Where do you see the future of fashion? The future is now. Who cares about the future of fashion per se. fashion is a way of life and has to be done with the respect of all the human being. This means that we believe in small active projects and small activities. Back to the roots to go forward. If you could dress any woman in the world in your designs who would it be and why? We could love to dress up Blanca Miro’ the, co-founder and fashion direction of Vasquiat and La Veste. She represents the indepen-
afi 97
dent woman of the present with a positive way to look at the world and thinking about the future. What is your favourite collection or piece you have created and why? We love a cotton overcoat with big patchwork pocket. It’s cozy, and deliver the message of mixing attitudes and genres like the patchwork do always. What areas of fashion and design are you hoping to explore more in the future? Caterina would love in the future to decline AVN as a children-wear collection with the objective to transmit to the younger generation her values. If you could collaborate with one designer or artist who would it be? Caterina would love to collaborate with Manuela Arcari the designer of Ter Et Bantine which she loved for the work that Manuela did and does in her history. Where can our readers find your collections? We are distributed around the world but our main channel is our e- commerce entirely self-organized: www.avn-italy.com
98 afi
afi 99
Alexandra Hakim NO MORE FISH IN THE SEA SS20
100 afi
THE ALCHEMIST Alexandra Hakim After completing her foundation year at Central Saint Martins, she journeyed to Rhode Island School of Design to undertake a BFA in Jewellery and metalsmithing leading to the creation of her namesake brand and launched her debut collection in 2016. Her collections have been worn by celebrities such as Rihanna.
Bringing life to lost souls. British-Lebanese Jewelry Designer Alexandra Hakim tell us in this exclusive interview her sustainable process in crafting unique jewelry from forgotten everyday objects Borrowing concepts from classical painters and the narratives behind their works, Alexandra’s creations have a style that bridges the classical and the contemporary. Simple everyday objects that once are forgotten are reimagined to fine pieces of jewellery that are individually unique. Using consumed objects, every piece is handcrafted in a traditional studio in Lebanon with a zero waste approach. The result are truly one-of-a-kind with a sustainable narrative. Interviewed by Stef Carter, via ASV Comms Can you tell the Afi’s readers about you and your background? I grew up in London watching my father sculpt every night and started to play with his leftover clay to make little sculptures of my own. My time at Central Saint Martins helped me to discover my love for metals, which is when I realised that I wanted to make objects to ornament body in the form of jewellery. After completing my Foundation year at Central Saint Martins, I transferred to the Rhode Island School of Design to continue my BFA in Jewellery & Metalsmithing and then went on to creating my contemporary jewellery brand. I am now 26 years old, living and working between Madrid and Beirut. Your designs are known for their luxurious spin
“
on items usually regarded as waste - most notably the organic tomato series - Can you talk us through your design process?
The common denominator of my jewellery is that all of the pieces are made from wasted materials that have lost their function after use. I use the body as a canvas to give them a new meaning both aesthetically and conceptually, giving them the value that they deserve
I spend a lot of time collecting produce that would be going to waste from farmers’ markets and local restaurants as a starting point. As a maker, I experiment with these found materials to discover new techniques. This involves a lot of trial and error in the studio. No molds are used, which means that each piece is unique. Where do you go to find inspiration? I turn to Art History for inspiration, so books and museums are very important for me. I borrow narratives and symbolism from 17th Century painting to come up with themes for my collections.
Big Green Hooks £155
afi 101
Gold and Silver Fishing Chains £250
How much does your Lebanese heritage play a part in your design process? A lot of my early work focuses on giving new life to everyday objects found in the traditional Lebanese living room such as nutshells, matchsticks and Middle Eastern furniture.
Gold and Malachite Float Earrings £235
The Khaizaran collection is an ode to Lebanese craftsmanship, inspired by the chairs at my grandmother’s house in the Lebanese mountains. The nostalgic pattern casts the most beautiful shadows in the summer. Unfortunately, once the cane weave is broken, it cannot be fixed. I find and up-cycle these old chairs in the form of timeless jewels to reinforce the importance of heritage symbols in local design. What does being sustainable look like in your business? All of my jewellery is handmade from recycled materials that have lost their original function after use. I use my brand as a platform to promote a zero-waste approach both aesthetically and conceptually. The best thing about working with metals like brass, silver and gold is that they can be melted down and reused almost endlessly. Where do you see the future of sustainability?
Silver Hoops £310
102 afi
Sustainability, especially in fashion, is shifting from being a luxury to being a necessary requirement. Being a designer today comes with the responsibility of being environmentally conscious. Consumers too…
How do you find your voice in a crowded jewellery market that is akin to fast fashion where low-quality items are churned out to hungry consumers?
My designs tend to attract quirky, powerful and curious women (and men) with something to say.
I tend to ignore that scene completely by focusing my energy on creating high-quality, unique pieces that make people feel confident and special, without breaking the bank.
Rihanna is quite a notable wearer of your jewellery, who else would you love to see wearing your pieces, and why?
When you envisage your customer what do they look like? What are the traits of the wearer?
XL Gold Hoops £265
Mini Gold Hoops £80
Iris Apfel - the 98-year-old legend, fashion icon and businesswoman. She is my daily reminder of how accessories can empower women in different ways, which is the essence of what jewellery means to me.
Little Gold Hooks £170
Gold Rings £80
afi 103
Black Fishing Chain £350
What would you say is your favourite piece you have designed? I recently made a series of non-traditional metal bouquets as an alternative to flowers for the modern bride, cast directly from wilted plants and organic tomato stems in different colours. I was inspired Baroque Still-Life painting - the idea of translating the ephemeral nature of a beautiful bouquet into a timeless statement piece. What does your everyday jewellery look like? My everyday jewellery includes my gold wedding ring and stacked pieces from different collections depending on my mood. The more, the merrier. What is your favourite way to style your jewellery? I like to think of my jewels as conversation starters so a good statement piece is key!
104 afi
Silver Fishing Chain £220
Gold Fishing Chain £250
Alexandra Hakim NO MORE FISH IN THE SEA afi 105
106 afi
2020 London fashion week
MALAN BRETON AW 20 THE RISE OF THE PHOENIX Exaggerated forms and couture glamour meet beautifully in Malan Breton’s new collection Set inside a dark and dramatic St Georges Church in Holborn, dramatic music strikes up and the first model appears in an opulent feather trench coat. The first section of the collection is made up of soft blush tones in faux fur and tulles. Malan is known for his fine balance of couture craftsmanship and ready to wear pieces that meet in the middle in an eloquent marriage. As the waves of layered tulle gowns and soft dresses pass by, the collection begins to introduce Swarovski crystals that dance under the bright lights. More geometric structures become apparent, and the colour palette takes
a darker dramatic tone with rich blues and brocade fabrics. Within this section more of Malan’s signature power suits begin to appear for both men’s and womenswear with the added twist of reflective fabrics. For the final section, dramatic black feather coats sat alongside leather jackets giving the collection a grungier feel. It ended in a crescendo of darkened textures, oversized lapels, statement sleeves – everything we have come to expect and love from the designer. “A fiery metamorphous, a rebirth, another Malan Breton collection ready to set your soul on fire.”
Words by Stef Carter via POP PR
afi 107
2020 London fashion week
JO H NS T O NS OF E L G I N
AW20 Johnston’s of Elgin weave old and new in a fusion collection launched at the historic Serpentine this LFW. Fresh bright palettes were offset against rich neutral tones in their AW20 offering Presented in the historical Serpentine gallery, the new pivotal collection from knitwear giants, Johnstons of Elgin has been three years in the making. For this stand out collection the brand has stayed true to their roots with traditional fibres and weaving techniques, and in keeping up with the ever changing times have looked to the future with using 3D seamless technology. A key reason for this brands 222 year staying power is in their understanding in adapting and moving with, the ever changing technologies in this industry. This retrospective collection was comprised of 21 womenswear and 9 menswear looks across knitwear, outerwear and accessories. They offered year-round, trans-seasonal pieces for a variety of settings. Statement scarves in neon pink and ice blue draped over fine wool dresses, and wool jumpers were presented with patterns inspired
108 afi
by Scotland, Mongolia and Peru. The colour palette fused neutrals with china blue, ice-water aqua, amber, harissa, lotus pink and gold for a spectacularly diverse collection. This season there was a centre rail showing the collection enabling viewers to get even closer to the garments and admire and feel their exquisite quality. The reversible Car Coat in tweed check was a personal favourite of mine – if you know me you know I have a penchant for coats! An early emerging trend of SS20 is the cape, and Johnstons presented a chunky longline knit cape with a button fastening at the top which sat on top of a vibrant printed skirt and jumper duo. Each piece easily integrated into your wardrobe, with some special luxe pieces to make a statement.
Words by Stef Carter via Seven Dials
afi 109
SUBMISSIONS OPEN Fashion/beauty editorials & interview features to showcase your work
FOR OUR SUBMISSION GUIDELINES PLEASE VISIT www.bit.ly/afimag-submit
JOIN US ON SOCIAL MEDIA
Copyright © afi mag. All Right Reserved.