VOL.3 ISSUE 3
afi MAG
VOL.3 ISSUE 3
Contents 28
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101
90
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41
100
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EDITORIALS “Been Bad” by Sara Lehtomaa P.4 “War and Peace” by Kate Wrublevski P.18 “The Supreme” by Jeremy Jakubowicz P.30 “Milan Musing” by Dominika Jarczynska P.42 “The Pearly Queen” by Daniel O’Connell P.52 “Golden Shapes” by Luj Deva P.64 “The Street Style Glamour” by Alejandro Ramirez P.74 “Cast A Shadow” by Elo Durand P.84 “Wateriron” by Simone Conte P.92
London Fashion Week AW19 coverage 27
26
38
82
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72
4
18
52
42 92
30
Rocky Star P.14 Paul Costelloe P.16 Paula Knorr P.26 16Arlington P.27 Wesley Harriott P.28 Matty Bovan P.29 Mark Fast P.38 IA London P.40 Emilia Wickstead P.41 Malan Breton P.50 Johnstons of Elgin P.62 Oxford fashion Studio P.72 Leonie Mergen P.73 Ashish P.82 Malene Oddershede Bach P.90 Roberta Einer P.91 Indonesian Fashion Showcase P.100 Bora Aksu P.101 With thanks: POP PR, Trace Publicity, Seven Dials PR, The Lobby London, Spring PR, Slingshot London, Black PR group, FashionScout, MGC London, On|Off London, Starworks Group, AW+C, Mandi’s basement, British Fashion Council
Contributors 64 84
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Anna Grewelding, Alejandro Ramirez, Daniel O’Connell, Dominika Jarczynska, Elo Durand, Jeremy Jakubowicz, Kate Wrublevski, Kristina Poli, Luj Deva, Patrick Nadjarians, Sara Lehtomaa, Simone Conte, Tanya Lopatinskaya, Vu Dinh Hai
VOL.3 ISSUE 3
editor's Note Dear Readers Welcome to our February issue and it’s that time of the year again! Yes, it’s Fashion Week! All around the globe, major fashion weeks were (and are still) happening and we are proud to present to you some of the most anticipated shows that occurred in London. In fact, I am particularly proud of this issue as it is the biggest fashion week coverage we have done so far in Afi.
ON THE COVER Photographer: KATE WRUBLEVSKI @vrublin Model: MARIA ARASLANKINA @zzzzz_mpl Hair and makeup: DASHA BESEDINA @darja_besedina Wardrobe stylist: FIDAN ASKERA @fidan.askera
Editor in Chief - Conrad Lee Fashion Editor - Stef Carter Beauty Editor - Luciana Petrossian
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For those yet to have the pleasure of attending fashion week, you might think of it being all that glamorous, but it’s actually a very tough week for editors. Each day often begins with a very strong cup of coffee, and then it’s a constant battle against time to get from shows to shows dotted around the busy city till the late of night. Sometimes there are big queues, at times, in cramped spaces amongst a sea of fashionistas. Once we are at the show, it’s not all just fun and games, our editors are writing notes, taking pictures, Instagraming constantly without a break all for the love of fashion and our desire to bring to you the real glamour that occurs on the runway. I therefore cannot thank my editors Stef and Lu, enough for all their hard work. As for me with the role of photographer and editor, fashion week couldn’t have been any busier. For photographers out there, I’m sure you can understand my pain having to go through thousands of raw images post show. That being said, seeing the immense teamwork backstage was inspiring. Capturing those unique backstage moments and then seeing the models gracefully flow past on the runway was enough to overcome any body aches from crouching in awkward positions for hours. I was most impressed with the creative direction and show settings that brought the designer’s collections to life; Malene Oddershede Bach’s show (p.90) took me to a fantastical elven scene as her ethereal collection walked amongst golden leaves with sun rays shining through the parish church windows. Malan Breton’s presentation (p.50) immersed his guests into the glamorous spectacle of 1920s swing. Ashish’s collection (p.82) was so colourful and dazzling under the giant spotlights it was like watching stars twinkle in the infinite galaxy. Paul Costelloe’s Battlefield to Ballroom collection (p.16) blew me away with his gallant and napoleonic theme.
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So here it is, this issue is not only filled with the works of our creative contributors, but also a glimpse into latest collections fresh off the runway. I hope you enjoy it! Conrad Lee (Editor-In-Chief)
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Laura wears: Jacket by H&M, Jewellery by EERO HINTSANEN
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BEEN BAD Breaking taboos with hints of gothic and fetishism. Bad girls embrace the shameless attitude of masculine wear.. Photographed by Sara Lehtomaa. Styling by Elina Saren.
Photographer: SARA LEHTOMAA @saralehtomaa | Model: LAURA ROIVAINEN @laura.roivainen | Model agency: PAPARAZZI @paparazzimodelmanagement | Makeup artist: MELIINA SAVELA @meliinasavela | Hair stylist: SIRKKU LAMPINIEMI @ hairdosbysirkku | Wardrobe stylist: ELINA SARÉN @elina_saren Location: Helsinki, Finland
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Laura wears: Coat by KATI MÄÄTTÄ, Shoes by ANNI HAKULI
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Laura wears: Coat by KATI MÄÄTTÄ, Shoes by ANNI HAKULI
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Laura wears: Hoodie by H&M, Jewellery custom made by stylist
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Laura wears: Harness by KATI MÄÄTTÄ, Shoes by ZARA, Men’s suit: custom made by stylist
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Laura wears: Jewellery by EERO HINTSANEN
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Laura wears: Vest by KATI MÄÄTTÄ, Earrings by H&M
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Rocky Star aw19 Grungy yet with a sense of femininity. Rocky’s collection shows a edgy look that shook the runway In an exploration of romanticism casual and included some beauwritten by Stef Carter
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above: designer Rocky Star at backstage
between good and evil Rocky Star was inspired by Vatican architecture in his latest AW19 collection. The collection mostly comprised of tailored separates which were beautifully layered to present an overall gothic feel. Rich fabrics including silk, organza, velvet and metallics added to the depth of the collection, adding a layer of high flare and flounce. As models strutted down the runway in the Vestibule of the Freemason’s Hall their garments glimmered under the lights. Sequinned trousers and skirts were paired with relaxed knits in a fantastic display of how to wear high end in a more casual style. Layered and ruffled tulle skirts sat alongside branded Rocky Star lurex t-shirts and sweatshirts in reflection of young streetwear trends. The collection was not all
tifully tailored trousers, blazers and overcoats in different metallic materials. When asked about his journey presenting numerous collections at London Fashion week Rocky responded saying “A lot of effort has gone behind creating and putting together collections at London in ways that appeal to the global audience while still retaining an Indian aesthetic. I truly believe in treating each show with the same enthusiasm as the first.” This energy and passion is evident in such a highly charged presentation of Rocky’s current collection.
photos by Conrad Lee
THE LOOK
written by Luciana Petrossian
The Rocky Star show featured striking grungy hair and makeup to compliment the edgy designs. Models rocked a matte black smoky eye, natural brows, flawless skin with a defined contour and a pale nude lip. The look was designed by key makeup artist LAN Nguyen-Grealis and executed by her team using Kryolan Professional Makeup products. The makeup artists used the ‘Ultra Foundation Palette’ as a base to even out skin tone. This foundation has a matte finish and is especially formulated to blend seamlessly into the skin, ideal for photographic work. The ‘Glamour Glow Palette’ was used to create depth to contour the face. It was also used to highlight the high points of the face to create a dewy effect. For the smoky eye, the makeup team used the black and brown eyeshadows from the ‘Eye Shadow Variety Palette’ followed by the ‘Kajal Eyeliner’ then the ‘HD Cream Liner’ on top to deepen the colour, finished off with the ‘Mascara Color Intensifier’ in black. Lastly, nude colours from the ‘Lip Rouge Set’ palette topped with a very light pink ‘Pearl Lipstick’ was used to create the shiny nude lips.
Above: Makeup artist Anna Sokolowska backstage with model Monique Teixeira (BodyLondon)
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PAUL COSTELLOE AW19 Battlefield to Ballroom
Military blazers led into a crescendo of ballgowns in this heritage brand’s latest collection This season marked a triumphant return of Paul Costelloe who presented an impressive 42 look collection at Simpson’s in the Strand. There’s no denying Costelloe is a masterful tailor and he displayed his craft through a confident collection including striking military coats, constructed from pure Italian wool, mill-engineered velvet corduroy pieces, ready to wear apparel, leading into a crescendo of ball gowns. For his latest collection, Costelloe looked at what he felt the gaps were in London Fashion Week: “I felt they were in tailoring. And then with the Empire collapsing, I thought I’d do a Rule Britannia, with a little bit of a smile on my face, so you’ve got the beautiful gowns and the military coats and that kind of combination of war and peace to some extent.” The collection was a perfect balance of ready to wear pieces including khaki silk shirts, oversized Aran knitwear and leather handbags with a decidedly military feel. For the more daring followers of fashion, the red military coats and leather accoutrements are a sure way to make a bold wardrobe statement this coming autumn. The collection was full of rich colour from the powerful red
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without detracting from the garments. Costelloe’s aristocratic inspired long billowing gowns, were truly fit for a princess. The rich brocade fabric, the impeccable construction and attention to detail, confirms Costelloe as an adroit clothier. “In times like these, belief is more relevant than ever before..” Whilst the country remains uncertain about looming political affairs; one thing remains c e rtain – Costelloe reigns supreme as one of the highlights of London Fashion week. military coats, to the deep autumnal shades of gold and claret ensuring that there certainly was a piece for every taste. The styling of the collection was excellent; beautiful costume jewellery by Pebble London and Randa were wilfully placed and layered so as to make subtle statements of their own written by Stef Carter
“In times like these, belief is more relevant than ever before...”
photos by Conrad Lee
THE LOOK a
written by Luciana Petrossian
To connect with Paul’s collection this season, Battlefield to Ballroom, AOFMPro’s lead artist, Yin Lee, wanted to create strong makeup look with military undertones.
To begin, the AOFMPro team prepped the skin with Dermalogica’s Multi-Active Toner, followed by Dermalogica Skin Smoothing Cream. For the skin, a lightweight foundation was applied to provide coverage whilst leaving a beautiful silky sheen. Ellis Faas creamy eyes in 113 - navy blue was applied as a strict, sharp straight eyeliner feeding into the military look. To soften and add a romantic edge, Sisley Phyto twist in No.5 was layered in the inner waterline. To finish, cheeks were slightly contoured and lips were coloured in a nude tint. Lead by Indira Schauwecker, the TONY&GUY Session team used label.m Professional Haircare products to create a messy twisted high bun for a sophisticated and military look. Nails were by Sophia Stylianou and her team, they created a delicate, dotted manicure to perfectly compliment the collection by using Leighton Denny Expert Nails in ‘Maneater’ and ‘Provocative’.
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Maria wears: Coat by TWINS FLORENCE, shoes by CASADEI, accessories by MARC JACOB
Attennnnnntion! Here are the military inspired looks that will make you feel at ease throughout the winter days. Photography by Kate Wrublevski. Styling by Fidan Askera.
&
WAR PEACE Photographer: KATE WRUBLEVSKI @vrublin | Model: MARIA ARASLANKINA @ zzzzz_mpl | Hair and makeup: DASHA BESEDINA @darja_besedina |Wardrobe stylist: FIDAN ASKERA @fidan.askera Location: Khabarovsk, Russia
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Maria wears: Pants and shirt by TWINS FLORENCE, Handkerchief by PHILIPP PLEIN, accessories by MARC JACOB
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Maria wears: Pants and shirt by TWINS FLORENCE, Handkerchief by PHILIPP PLEIN, accessories by MARC JACOB
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Maria wears: Pants by TWINS FLORENCE, Skirt by A LA RUSSE, Belt by ALEXANDER TEREKHOV
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Maria wears: Pants and shirt by TWINS FLORENCE, Handkerchief by PHILIPP PLEIN, accessories by MARC JACOB
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Maria wears: Dress by LORENA ANTONIAZZI, Jeans and jacket by MARC JACOBS, accessories by MARC JACOB
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Maria wears: Dress by LORENA ANTONIAZZI, Jeans and jacket by MARC JACOBS, accessories by MARC JACOB
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Paula knorr aw19
Get your grooves on for a dazzling disco dream with Paula Knorr written by Stef Carter
Spirits were instantly lifted upon entering Paula Knorr’s presentation with lively music and the instant lure of the glittering pieces on display. Reimagined 80’s silhouettes empowered and celebrated the female body. The models constantly moved throughout the presentation showing how the eveningwear was not only visually appealing but practical too. The fiery tones and shimmering fabrics set against metallic background instantly transported the viewers and immersed them into a party scene. The mixture of bodycon fits, batwing sleeves, palazzo trousers and draped eveningwear made of an extremely covetable collection. It was thrilling to see them in the presentation but to be able to get up close to the collection in the designer showrooms gave an additional appreciation for the craftsmanship – not to mention the appreciation of the volume of sequins used to make each garment. Knorr sat proudly next to her collection happy to talk us through each piece and eager to hear our thoughts on the presentation – nothing but praise and awe from us!
THE LOOK
written by Luciana Petrossian
Following on from the glitter-tastic looks we saw at Ashish, glitter makeup looks also featured at the Paula Knorr presentation giving us major Studio 54 vibes. Makeup was designed by U.S makeup artist Lottie (@lotstar), who is known for her strong creative flare and expressive use of colour.
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photos by Conrad Lee
Lottie and the beautyblender Pro Team used their new Opal Essence Primer (out in March) to give a gorgeous glow to the skin. This was followed by the Bounce Foundation applied with The Original beautyblender that had been dampened with a spritz or two of Re-Dew Set & Refresh spray. With a colour palette of rose, red, pink and rose gold, for the eyes and lips Lottie used Shiseido Kajal Ink Artist Pencils, Crystal GelGloss Lip Gloss and Glitter Paste by Lemonhead LA. Hair by Nick Irwin using ANTI. Styling Products. Nails by Joanna Newbold using Morgan Taylor Professional Nail Lacquer.
16Arlington AW19
This high-shine debut will leave you dreaming in glitter Inspired by German-American pop artist Richard Lindner, 16Arlington made their LFW debut show. The vision from the design duo is a “cocktail of lavish glamour and urban cool” which superbly sums up this collection. A burst of rich colours and prints clashed and harmonised in this collection, as masculinity and femininity lines were blurred with the presentation of faux python boot leg trousers teamed with a shearling striped coat and a satin long-lapelled shirt as a look that can be adopted by all. Whilst the urban tailored pieces were covetable, it was the party wear that really captivated the audience. The pieces had all the signatures of a great evening dress: sex appeal, movement, and glitz. Ostrich feathers trimmed mini dresses, and gowns were covered in gems which glistened under the spotlight. It’s no wonder one of the garments was snapped up by Jorga Smith to be worn on the red carpet at the Brits moments after the garment’s debut. written by Stef Carter photos courtesy of 16Arlington
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photos by Conrad Lee
Wesley harriott
AW19
Hailed as one to watch amongst Britain’s emerging talent, Wesley Harriott presented his androgynous and multi functional collection at 180 Strand. Tottenham born Ricky Wesley Harriott has returned to show in London for the second time at 180 Strand. Known for his androgynous shapes and deconstructed designs he has already won the hearts of many A-list celebrities including SZA, Lady Gaga, Jorja Smith and Kylie Jenner.
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This season he drew inspiration from The Empress Dowager Cixi; where his use of heavy shoulder padding and strong silhouettes offered a presence of power, juxtaposed against more soft feminine pieces. The opinion and divide of the Empress was often “black or white” which formed the co-
lour palette for this collection. Harriott included drawstrings and unzipped trousers to offer the wearer a “self style” approach, allowing full interpretation of each piece and a sense of creative control in its wear. The white coat as you entered the presentation, when unzipped actually falls to two coats and can be worn depending on the preference of the user. Harriott has secured a capsule collection with ASOS which will be launching this year, so all will be able to access this creative’s wonderful pieces.
written by Stef Carter
Matty Bovan aw19
“In Uncertain Times, This Is A Sure Thing!” Read how Matty Bovan took a perverse letter and drew inspiration to create a gothic and spellbinding collection. Known for his colourful palette; this season was far from the light hearted rainbow hues we’ve seen in Matty Bovan’s past collections, instead replaced by dark tones and gothic referencing. Having spent six months studying the Pendle Witch trials of 1612, Bovan explored wizardry, healing rituals and our unusual approach to life after death.
photos courtesy of Matty Bovan
On being asked how the collection came together Bovan expressed “I always say it’s like cooking. So you’re cooking 12 dishes on a stove and you don’t really know how it’s all going to go together…that’s the exciting bit.” This show was every bit exciting, with the collection deeply rooted in Englishness paired the perfect blend of eccentricity. Liberty prints layered and clashed against each other, but the marriage between the tailoring and draping was poetic. The whole collection was as spellbinding as the reference from which it was drawn and left a lasting impression. Patchwork fabrics sat on top of crinoline skirts, faux fur stoles hung on the shoulders of famous models, and statement headwear complimented the absurd but ever so captivating collection. Not one for the everyday wardrobe, but there’s no denying the enchantment of the collection. written by Stef Carter
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Head to the concrete jungle with bold colours, tailored jackets and ultra-feminine dresses. Photography by Jeremy Jakubowicz. Styling by Yulia Moatti.
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Noela wears: Top and skirt by WEEKEND MAX MARA, Belt by IRO PARIS, Dress and jacket by CACHAREL, shoes by VALENTINO
THE SUPREME
Photographer: JEREMY JAKUBOWICZ @jeremyjakubo | Stylist: YULIA MOATTI @yuliamoatti | Make-up Artist: OLGA LOZITSKAYA @onedayhero_makeup | Model: NOELA AVON @noelaavon | Special thanks: Shop 17, Jacques Loup afi 31
Noela wears: Pants by SAINT LAURENT, shoes by ALEXANDER WANG, pull by ZARA
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Noela wears: Pants by WEEKEND MAX MARA, shirt by HELMUT LANG, jacket by FOR RESTLESS SLEEPERS
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Noela wears: Jacket by SAINT LAURENT, skirt by ZARA, shoes by VALENTINO
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Noela wears: Dress by PAUL & JOE, hat by MAISON MICHEL, jacket by ALBERTA FERRETTI, shoes by IRO PARIS
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Noela wears: Pullover and skirt by MIMI LIBERTÉ
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Noela wears: Pullover and skirt by MIMI LIBERTÉ
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MARK FASTAW19 Drawing from The Golden Age of Hollywood was a masterful collection by knitwear sculptor Mark Fast that captivated and enthralled the audience. Opening London Fashion week was Mark Fast. The London based designer is famed for his modern knitwear technology and his perspective on knitwear being akin to sculpture. Fast uses different volumes to create sensual silhouettes and never fails to disappoint season after season. This exceptional collection was inspired by The Golden Age of Hollywood; looking to muses such as Jane Russell, Marilyn Monroe, and Rita Hayworth and drew inspiration from legendary films such as “What a Way to Go” and “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.” The rainbow collection was presented with the dreamiest pastels, alongside zesty orange and traditional autumnal tones. As with all of Fast’s works, this was a celebration of the female form, as 21 models presented 32 looks to a crowd of admirers. Each piece had a life of it’s own, as if the model was secondary to the work they were wearing. As the models glided down the runway, the loose knits swayed in mesmeric fashion that made you want to reach out and touch them. The key to this flawless fit is that everything is formed onto the body as he knits. There’s no denying Fast’s talent in manipulating knitwear, he has devised innovative stitching techniques including blending Lycra with the finest luxury textiles, making him a master of his craft. As the garments sauntered down the runway, each as enthralling as the last; you couldn’t believe that you would possibly see another favourite look until the next model entered. Whilst entirely knitwear based, the designs were diverse enough to continuously captivate the audience and leave you wanting to see more. This will be the only collection I cannot be pressed to choose a favourite look from, as it was entirely breath-taking from start to finish.
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written by Stef Carter
photos courtesy of Mark Fast
Born and raised in Sydney, Maria Kovacs began her career as part of Anthony’s Australian Art Team. During this time she worked as a session stylist with many of the top Australian fashion and beauty photographers, as well as participating in educational shows and seminars in Australasia. Ten years ago she moved to London and quickly became a popular and crucial part of the TIGI Creative Team, leading fashion shows in London, Paris and Milan as well as supporting the US Session Team at New York Fashion Week. Maria is highly respected for her exquisite work, often referring to hair as ‘fabric’. As TIGI European Session Director, she heads the TIGI Session Team; interpreting the designer’s vision. “I always love to hear Mark’s inspiration for the look as it helps us create the perfect collaboration. This session he referenced gorgeous 50s pin up women, so I wanted to create a 50s glamorous look but with a modern twist. I loved creating the set look, this is something we haven’t seen on the runway for a number of seasons. The 50s was a time when people needed hairdressers.” –Maria Kovacs, TIGI European Session Director
GET THE LOOK ‘READY, SET, ROLL’ Step 1 - Start by prepping hair with TIGI Copyright Volume Lift Styling Spray Hairspray, dampen hair down and blow-dry away from the face Step 2 - Separate a small triangular section around the top of the head/fringe area, from the crown to middle of the eyes. Isolate this hair and clip to use later Step 3 - Use a hot stick and set the hair using pivoting section from the crown to the hairline. Set the curls with TIGI Copyright Volume Finishing Hairspray and silver clips Step 4 - Once the hair has cooled down and set, remove all clips and brush away from the face. Create the 50’s moulded shape by back brushing and combing hair and with your hands work into the nape area. Tuck the hair into the nape to create the base and making sure that hair is brushed up inline with the cheekbones. Use TIGI Copyright Volume Finishing Hairspray and try to lock in some waves by adding more silver clips to create the shape Step 5 - While the moulded shape is setting, work on the top section of the hair. Use the small hot sick and TIGI Copyright Volume Finishing Hairspray, set the hair into 4-6 sections changing the direction of curl every other section, once set, brush out and start to coil the hair back towards the head shape and mould the shape to create the feature at the front. Secure with grips, using TIGI Copyright Volume Finishing Hairspray leaving a few curls visible and a little bit of texture Step 6 - From a distance spray TIGI Copyright Maximum Hold Hairspray to finish the look. Smoothing the back section of hair leaving the surface nice and clean written by Luciana Petrossian
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photos courtesy of IA London
IA LONDON AW19
Avantgarde fashion house IA London closed London Fashion Week with an explosion of wearable dark art pieces. Each season ON|OFF Presents select emerging designers to showcase their collection, this season they closed London Fashion Week with a selection of six designers. One of which was IA London, founded by Ira Avezov in 2016. Each garment begins as a series of hand drawn digital paintings, so each piece eventually ends up as a wearable piece of art. This season’s collection was gloomy and eerie on the surface, but look closer and you’ll see the dark and beautiful works of art that were emblazoned on each creation. Avezov wanted to present outfits you would wear to your own funeral. This morbid but stunningly beautiful collection showcased fine tailoring, featuring raw hemlines and a variety of textured fabrics which added allure and depth to the collection; not forgetting the blood red tallons each model wore. A number of the garments featured a pair of smiling lips, and oversized fabric lips were strapped to models heads hinting that many a person is forced to smile; Avezov added that “smiles are immortal.” Made up of a number of ready to wear pieces and some more avant-garde numbers this was a very welcomed contrast to some of the more bright and commercial pieces that covered the runway.
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Emilia Wickstead AW19 - the look
written by Luciana Petrossian
Backstage at Emilia Wickstead, Lead Makeup Artist Lucy Bridge and the SUQQU team created three different looks, depicting the coming of age story of Mary Corleone from The Godfather Trilogy that inspired Emilia’s AW19 collection. To start, all the models were given an express GANKIN massage, to release facial tension and stiffness, promote blood circulation and lymph flow whilst giving a firmer facial contour, sharper chin line and more definition in the lower half of the face. Products used for the GANKIN include SUQQU Moisture Hydro Lotion, Intense Rich Cream, Intense Rich Eye Cream and Lip Concentrate Balm. The combination of the GANKIN and the products used gave flawless looking skin. Lucy Bridge says “We started with a natural, dewy, second skin finish, accompanied with creamy glassy highlights. Brows are bold and bushy, and brushed upwards for a real focus. Building on this gorgeous base, the second look adds a red, matte, bold lip, tying in with the colour palette of the collection. Finally we amped up the bottom lashes for the third look, adding an extra detail to the makeup for some key looks. Lashes are curled on top but left bare to really allow the bottom lashes to speak volumes.
GET THE LOOK Step 1 – The SUQQU GANKIN massage using Musculate Massage & Mask Cream, followed by additional skincare using Moisture Repair Essence, Moisture Hydro Lotion and Moisture Serum Cream for a clean hydrated face. Step 2 – Apply Blooming Glow Primer to add a freshness to the natural dimension of the face Step 3 – Apply Nude Wear Liquid and Radiant Cream Concealer to even the complexion and for added radiance to the skin Step 4 – Using fingers apply Shimmer Liquid Blush for a subtle touch of blush and dab Face Designing Concealer H-02 onto cheekbones for added highlight Step 5 – Set the t-zone, underneath the eyes and chin with Retouch Pressed Powder Step 6 – Define Brows using the Eyebrow Pencil in gentle strokes, brush them with a spoolie and set with Volume Eyebrow Mascara for a ‘bushy’ finish Step 7 – Subtly enhance the eyes by curling lashes with the Eyelash Curlers and leave mascara free for an ultra natural look.
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MILAN MUSING Photographer: DOMINIKA JARCZYŃSKA @jarczynskadominika | Model: MARY TISH @ marytishphillips at MONSTER MILAN @monster_mgmt | Creative Director and Stylist: GIN SALEMÓ @gin_salemo | Makeup Artist: GIEDRE BUTKEVICE @giedremakeupartist | Hair Stylist: FABIO CICERALE @fabio_cicerale | Stylist’s Assistants: LARA ARANGINU REALI and MARGAUX GARNIER Location: Milan, Italy
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Mary wears: Coat by MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION, dress by GUY LAROCHE, blazer by LOS FELIZ SHOP, shoes by GIA COUTURE, gloves by MAXMARA
Sophistication with timeless elegance. Get inspired by the shapes, light and ornaments from the streets of Milan. Photography by Dominika Jarczynska. Styling by Gin Salemรณ.
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Mary wears: Top and skirt by WEEKEND MAX MARA, earrings and rings by PERUFFO, shoes by SERGIO ROSSI
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Mary wears: Coat by MAX MARA, rings by VERNISSAGE, shoes by SERGIO ROSSI
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46 afi Mary wears: Coat by RED VALENTINO, top and skirt by MARCO RAMBALDI, bag by MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION
Mary wears: Coat by VERSACE, skirt by RED VALENTINO, shoes by SERGIO ROSSI, earings by NOBI TALAI
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Mary wears: Coat and sweater by MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION, skirt by MAX MARA, shoes by GIA COUTURE
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Mary wears: Cardigan by MAX MARA, necklace and bracelet by NOBI TALAI
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photos by Conrad Lee
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MALAN BRETON AW19
Be transported through a nostalgic world of 1920’s glamour by the master of all things glamorous: Malan Breton This season world-renowned Malan Breton made a glorious return with a presentation of his AW19 collection. Guests were transported through a nostalgic world of 1920’s glamour. Models were poised and almost frozen in a bygone era, in a smoking lounge, the parlour, the garden and in a speakeasy. The first room was a collection of remarkable evening gowns. In particular, a periwinkle layered tulle dress that guests carefully manoeuvred around, serving as a focal point in the centre of the chapel. Models grasped each other in a delicate embrace, swaying in their evening attire, while the hand sequined gowns glistened in the soft glow of the chapel lights. Combine
that with dramatic organ melodies, it certainly made a statement of what the remaining collection and settings had in store.
There certainly was an abundance of atmosphere in the House of Malan Breton as crowds flocked to see this visionary’s anticipated Breton’s models are bold and collection. It was classic Breton, striking, superbly echoing taking traditional and making it their attire. Malan on his his very own: including taking a inspiration this season; classic trench and using a mega“This season I try to tell a watt metallic finish in gunmetal, story of a Norma Des- contrasted with the soft piping of mond type character, faux fur. Slews of leather adorned before she loses her in Swarovski crystals only added stability. Before she to the luxurious feel of the collecthrows away her free- tion. doms for unrequited Overall it was an unforgettable love. Before the world collection; in how it was presentknows her as a diva, a ed, the exquisite detailing, the has been. A murder- ambience, and of course the star ess. What if after death of the show were the garments we see the hearts of themselves which were an excelthose who society drove lent reflection of the designer’s to madness, before their prodigious skills. utter demise. That is my vision for my AW19 collection.” written by Stef Carter
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Take inspiration from the oceanic tones as spring approaches. Style soft pastels with elegant pearls for this whimsical look. Photography by Daniel O’Connell. Styling by Jack Mills.
THE PEARLY QUEEN Photographer: DANIEL O’CONNELL @danieloconnellphoto | Photography Assistant: ASHER HERR @Asherherr | Model: AMBER REOHORN @ambereohorn | Model agency: NEVS @nevsmodels | Makeup artist: JULIA EDWARDS @juliaedwardsmakeup | Hair stylist: IZACC PATTY @pattybabes | Wardrobe stylist: JACK MILLS @ styledbyjackmills Location: London, UK
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Amber wears: Pink Leather Corset by MALAN BRETON, Gold Choker necklace by TOPSHOP, Earring by MAYU, Pearls Vintage
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Makeup on Amber: Skincare by OMOROVICZA, Makeup products from MAC
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Amber wears: Striped shirt by SCOTCH AND SODA, White Dress by ANONYME DESIGNERS, Earrings by ASOS DESIGN
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Amber wears: Fishtail gown by MALAN BRETON, Hat by MISA HARADA, Earrings by MAYU
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Makeup on Amber: Skincare by OMOROVICZA, Makeup products from MAC
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Amber wears: Black asymmetric dress by F.ILKK, Earrings by ASOS DESIGN
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Amber wears: Dress by ANDREW MAJTENYI, Feathered fascinator by MISA HARADA, Earrings by TOPSHOP
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photos by Conrad Lee
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Johnstons of Elgin Seductive jewel tones and luxurious fabrics stunned and magnetised viewers as models graced the stage at One Marylebone. At One Marylebone, Johnstons of Elgin showcased their thirty piece Autumn Winter 19 collection; comprising of 20 womenswear and 10 menswear looks. Creative director Alan Scott’s aim for the company, is to “elevate the brand to a level that makes it into a British benchmark of luxury” and this collection solidified that goal. Rich autumnal shades and earth tones were coupled alongside jewel tones and glittering gold cashmere yarns and cubist colour blocks. The majority of the collection consisted of ready to wear sports luxe items and elegant timeless classic pieces that would easily slot into any wardrobe; however there were a number of show-stopping pieces. In particular a striking maxi dress with balloon sleeves which had a bright abstract Art Deco print. As the model walked down the runway, the fabric appeared to move like silk but was in fact 100% cashmere – a testament to the craft and innovation the brand continues to cultivate. This collection provided looks that were able to serve different purposes in day and night; for instance the cashmere palazzo trousers could be worn to the office and dressed up for polished evening attire. Flashes of tartan in amplified hues, paid homage to the brand’s Scottish origins, while making for desirable pieces – namely a blue double breasted coat which I adored. Alan Scott explained his style inspirations: “American, Italian and Japanese design have always been a key influence on my style. I take inspiration from quality, innovation and elegantly timeless pieces.” These sentiments certainly ring true throughout the new collection which confirmed Johnston’s of Elgin as the masters in cashmere and textiles. written by Stef Carter
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Make a statement with jewellery that comes in curious shapes and sizes to suit your every mood. Photography by Luj Deva. Styling by Giselle Sesi.
GOLDEN
SHAPES Photographer: LUJ DEVA @lujdeva_photo | Model: LIZA @lizaresin | Model agency: WORLDWIDE MODEL AGENCY @wmm.models | Makeup artist: BARBARA COSENZA @ barbaracosenzamua | Wardrobe stylist: GISELLE SESI @gisellesesi | Set designer: LA-DI-DÀ STUDIO @ladidalastudio 64 afi
Location: Milan, Italy
Liza wears: Dress FLR BY FLAVIALAROCCA, rings by VIBE ITALY Opposite page: Ring by METALÍCA
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Necklace, earrings, ring by METALĂ?CA
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Liza wears: Shirt by ZARA, earrings by METALÍCA
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Bracelet by VIBE ITALY, ring by METALÍCA
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Liza wears: Jacket by ZARA, necklace by METALÍCA
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Liza wears: Shirt by H&M, Earrings by VIBE ITALY
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Earrings and bracelet by VIBE ITALY
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OXFORD FASHION STUDIO Presenting:
Jasmine Chenell, Pavlina Jauss, Chaahat Thakkar, Anel Official, Rora Clothing, Darlene Ritz, Leonie Mergen
Putting Independent designers on the map for over a decade; we explore the recent collections presented by Oxford Fashion Studio Since 2009 Oxford Fashion Studio has provided a platform for international independent designers in which to showcase their collections alongside London Fashion Week. “Nine years on we are responsible for continuing to strengthen over 639 independent, quality designers, ranging from over 70 countries, to give them a platform in the four fashion capitals during fashion week.” This season saw collections form Jasmine Chenell, Pavlina Jauss, Chaahat Thakkar, Anel Official, Rora Clothing, Darlene Ritz and a solo runway by German designer Leonie Mergen. Berlin brand Anel Official comprised of designers Elena and Anastasia Seeman presented a beautiful collection of slinky separates and evening gowns. The colour palette was mostly white and nude blush tones, with the addition of a punchy red and blue jumpsuit. Personally I felt they should have stuck with the former palette from a cohesive perspective. The show stopping piece was a blush satin bandeau dress which has a mermaid pleated skirt; it floated down the runway effortlessly capturing the audience’s attention. A second favourite collection was from New York based Rora clothing who presented an effortlessly cool and chic collection typical of a New York fashionista. Inspired by artist Logan Maxwell Hagege. The brand “mixes colours and shapes with textured wovens and silver metal accents to create a surreal interpretation of this mesmerized city.” My favourite was the opening look which comprised of tailored trousers, a fringed white top, cropped leather jacket and wide brimmed felt hat. It was a versatile look that could be dressed up or down and was one that would easily slot into most women’s wardrobe.
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written by Stef Carter
Above: Top row: Anel Official, Second row clockwise: Jasmine Chenell, Anel Official, Rora, Chaanhat Thakker, DCR Studios, Pavlina Jauss
photos by Conrad Lee
Leonie Mergen AW19
Prior to her runway show Leonie Mergen took time to talk the Afi team through her 16 piece collection. Taking inspiration from the Absheron Peninsula, a region in the Caspian Sea area which has significant industrial history; inspiration was taken from the workers’ uniform including jumpsuits and trousers, and prints were taken from oil spills and replicated onto scarves and ties. Mergen only uses natural materials including leather and rabbit fur. On being pressed on the controversial decision to use fur Mergen explained that she grew up with her father being a hunter and they used every part of the animal to ensure zero wastage. “More than 80% of the animal that is left over is just thrown away and I think it is a total waste. There are difficult sides of fur production such as those produced in China where there is no control over those factories, but when you make sure it really is a by-product it’s okay.” The male and female collection was perfectly harmonised in terms of tailoring and colour palette, and a clear design direction was shown throughout. To compliment the garments, jewellery from Narmeen Jewellery was paired with the collection. The jewellery was designed from nature, using all natural stones in a minimal yet on trend fashion.
written by Stef Carter
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Be bold. Makeup artist Marta Vincte shows us how to throw a punch of colour with the street look. Photography by Alejandro Ramirez. Styling by Montse Lavi.
THE
STREET STYLE
GLAMOUR Photographer: ALEJANDRO RAMIREZ @alealeking | Model: KRISTINA MALEVYCH @kristinamalevych | Model Agency: FIFTH MODELS @fifthmodels | Hair and Makeup: MARTA VICENTE @marta_vicente_makeup | Wardrobe stylist: MONTSE LAVI @montselavi_stylist Location: Barcelona, Spain
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Kristina wears: Tendrils, pin and turban by HERITAGE, top by LA PERLA, blouse by CORTE FIEL
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Kristina wears: Tendrils by HERITAGE, top by BIK BOK
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Kristina wears: Tendrils by HERITAGE, top by ACNE STUDIO, bomber jacket by URBAN OUTFITTERS
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Kristina wears: Tendrils by HERITAGE, bodysuit by ACNE STUDIO, blazer by LOS FELIZ SHOP
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Kristina wears: Tendrils by HERITAGE, top by TOP SHOP, blazer by LOS FELIZ SHOP
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ASHISH AW19
Ashish prescribes a dose of crochet and sparkle. A joyful, glamorous collection and hair of new heights. Spanning over a decade, designer Ashish Gupta has been delighting audiences with his sequin covered, humorous collections, sparking with joy each season. This year he presented his newest offerings at Ambika 3. The barren concrete space stood in complete contrast to his collection, which only added emphasis on the collection. The show took the traditional and turned it on it’s head, in a fashionable way as only Ashish can do. Old fashioned 70’s crochet style ensembles made their way down the runway; instead of being constructed from yarns they were of course made from sequins. They were met with mixed reviews from some audience members but I, of course; adored them. There really was something for everyone in this show, as male models presented jumpers, sweatshirts, and trousers. Women paraded Ashish’s dazzling sequin dresses adorned with hand sewn sequins in different arrangements. A firm favourite of mine was a skirt twinset in a plaid sequin print with had a hand embroidered floral trim, completed by a pussy bow – these are the things I dream of. This 36 piece collection was one of mixed slouchy lurex knits, coupled alongside slip dresses, pencil skirts and some sensational evening dresses, which were the envy of all guests – you could hear genuine gasps echo throughout the crowd. A sparkling, standing ovation for the master of sequins.
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written by Stef Carter
photos by Conrad Lee
THE LOOK written by Luciana Petrossian If you thought the glitter trend was a one-season thing, think again! We were blown away when the models in the ASHISH show dazzled and sparkled their way down the runway. Lead makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench designed this dreamy makeup look and used a mix of MAC Cosmetics PRO glitters and Duo adhesive to apply glitter to the models eyes, lips, brows, nose, chin and cheekbones. Sam McKnight designed this fabulous hair by using 30 wigs for 15 models and LOADS of ‘Hair by Sam McKnight – Easy Updo’ and ‘Modern Hairspray’. He said the hair was ‘inspired by 60’s couture shows taken to a surreal new height’. Michelle Humphrey - represented by LMC Worldwide - use The GelBottle products to create beautiful glitter nails to compliment the collection perfectly. Michelle and her team created two different nail looks, one more of a white sparkle, the other more holographic, some models also had it on their toes. The look: CRYSTALIZED GLITTER SANDWICH 3 different glitters all sandwiched together to obtain the ultimate sparkle. MICHELLE TALKS US THROUGH HOW TO GET THE LOOK: “These have been applied to natural nails over the top of Nail Guards. (These act as a peel-off barrier between the gel polish and natural nail plate so that models can remove gels at speed without causing any damage). Firstly, prep nails for application. File and shape, push back cuticles and remove any loose non-living cuticle if required. Then use lint free pad to wipe away any dust and clean nail plate. For both looks I’ve layered 3 gel glitters, 1 coat of each and 60 seconds to cure in between each colour. White Glitter Look (colours in order): Snow queen - cure 60 seconds Crystal - cure for 60 seconds Milkyway - cure for 60 seconds Holographic Glitter Look (colours in order): Hola! Holo - cure for 60 seconds #NOFILTER - cure for 60 seconds Milkyway - cure for 60 seconds Both looks were finished off with randomly placed Swarovski AB crystals, these are locked into the Extreme Shine top coat and cured again for 60 seconds.”
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CAST A SHADOW SHADOW Photographer: ELO DURAND @elodurand | Model: REBECA BADIA @rebecabadia_ | Model agency: TREND MODELS @trendmodelsmgmt | Makeup artist: KRISTIANA ZAULA @kristianabeauty | Hair stylist: MAGALIE KIPPELEN @magaliehairstylist
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Location: Barcelona, Spain
Dancing with shadows. Makeup artist Kristiana Zaula shows us how light and dark can cast elegant to playful looks. Photography by Elo Durand. Hair by Magalie Kippelen. afi 85
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AW19
In a seated salon show, a display of rich autumnal splendour unfolds Set in St George’s Bloomsbury Church, paved with fallen autumn leaves that crunched beneath your feet, was the setting for Malene Oddershede Bach seated salon show. The backdrop was impressive and adding further ambience, models strolled to the live performance by James Broughton supported by Robbie McIntosh and Stephen Darrell Smith (formerly of The Pretenders.) The Danish designer presented her collection that was inspired by Autumnal northern landscapes. Unlike her first SS19 collection, this set remained feminine and true to Bach’s signature style, but with a more masculine take on forms through her use of fabrics traditionally associated with menswear. Glen check and corduroy sat alongside fil coupe jacquards on an organza base and her signature floral detail featured prominently throughout. The collection was the perfect balance of ready to wear items and gowns that could instantly be transported onto the red carpet. The rich ochre yellow, deep forest green, bold burgundy, ebony and metallic palette made for a cohesive and enticing collection. No stone was left unturned when it came to styling the collection, it was perfectly complimented with glasses featuring a delicate branch in soft blue or gold wash lenses; and ankle boots and open toe mules in black and burgundy which flattered each design. It’s extremely tough to choose a favourite as the whole collection was covetable; however, I adored the organza pencil skirt featuring heavy floral embroidery, which could be styled as a season-less classic. I was also particularly fond of the dark floral jacquard suit; a double breasted blazer with flared trousers is a statement piece that again leaves styling options open. The gowns are statements of their own, each with their own delicate pleats and exquisite tailoring which fit the models impeccably.
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written by Stef Carter
photos by Conrad Lee
Malene Oddershede Bach
photos courtesy of Roberta Einer
Roberta Einer AW19
Tartan mania as Roberta Einer takes the runway by force A collection that drew inspiration straight from her grandmother’s wardrobe; Roberta Einer put on a stand out collection. Being a tartan enthusiast myself this collection really appealed to me. Tartans were teamed with embroidery, beading, glittery cycling shorts – taking inspiration from era’s gone by and making them appealing to fashion lovers of today. Waists were cinched and the female form flattered with figure hugging dresses, pencil skirts and some lustworthy ready to wear pieces. This was a well-rounded collection with pieces that you could immediately integrate into your wardrobe; specifically silk shirts, some of which included vintage scarf inspired prints. The last three gowns were testament to Einer’s design skills, which included layering tulles over glitter fabrics giving them an added dimension and wouldn’t look out of place gracing the red carpet. The piece that stole the show for me were the mint satin embellished thigh high boots – I let out a squeal when they proceeded down the runway and I nearly ran off after them. written by Stef Carter
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Regina wears: Impermeabile jacket by MY TWIN twinset, Jacket by CALCATERRA, Skirt by ELISABETTA FRANCHI, shoes by CRISTIANO BURANI, earrings by GIOVANNI RASPINI
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Urban yet with a hint of fantastical fairy-tale. Stylist Elena Monti uses reflective material and texture for this whimsical styling. Photographed by Simone Conte.
WATERIRON Photographer: SIMONE CONTE @Simoneconteph | Model: REGINA @filonenkoregina | Model agency: URBAN MODELS @ urbanmodelmgmt | Hair and makeup: ELISA FERRAN @elisferran | Wardrobe stylist: ELENA MONTI @elenamontistylist & ANTONIO ARIGANELLO @antonio_ariganello_stylist | Retoucher: BASTIAN CERULLI @bastian_ce Location: Milan, Italy
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Regina wears: Jacket by EDITH MARCEL, dress by ELISABETTA FRANCHI, pants by DIXIE, shoes by ALAIN TONDOWSKI PARIS, earrings by GIOVANNI RASPINI
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Regina wears: Top and Pants by JIJIL, Jacket by KITON NAPOLI, Bomber by DEMETRIO ROMEO, Earrings by IOSSELLIANI, Socks by ALTO MILANO, Shoes by ALAIN TONDOWSKI PARIS
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Regina wears: Top by FEDERICA TOSI, blouse by GIADA, pants by DIXIE, Leggings by LOU DE BÈTOLY, Jewels by GIOVANNI RASPINI
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Regina wears: Sunglasses by VOGUE, dress by LOU DE BÈTOLY, top by CALCATERRA, pants by EDITH MARCEL, earrings by GIOVANNI RASPINI
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Regina wears: Suit by SUNCOO, jacket by TOM REBL, earrings by ROSANTICA, Shoes by ALAIN TONDOWSKI PARIS
Regina wears: Sequins dress by PICCIONE. PICCIONE, jacket by ASOS, pants by COLIAC, jewels by GIOVANNI RASPINI
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Presenting:
From Indonesia - Nila Baharuddin, Prasojobyrani, PVRA and bateeq. Special guest POUKA from Thailand. Hosted by Jera Creative at Fashion Scout.
Celebrating global talent in a prominent display of creative flair
Collection by Bateeq
A collection of four designers from Indonesia and one guest Thai designer were hosted at the Freemason’s Hall to present their latest creations.
Collection by Pouka
photos courtesy of Fashion Scout
Indonesian Fashion Showcase
The attention to detail and quality each designer displayed was a fantastic showcase of eastern talent; and one that has long been embraced in London fashion. “Indonesian fashion designers have always been keen to engage and inspire UK fashion enthusiasts and we will continue to support them in doing so” said His Excellency Dr. Rizal Sukma, the Ambassador of the Republic of Indonesia to United Kingdom. A particular favourite collection of mine was by designer Prasojobyrani. The brand creates their own beautiful fabrics, clothes, bags, shoes, wallets, bed covers and accessories. Focusing on using the best yarn raw-material, colouring and stitching the designer presented a delightful collection that can be best described as being “hippy” and “boho.”
Above (clockwise from top): Thai designer Voravaj with team, designer Nila Baharuddin with friends, designer Maharani Setyawan (Parsojobyrani)
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written by Stef Carter
Collection by Nila Baharuddin
Collection by Prasojobyrani
Collection by PVRA
Rich golds and reds sat alongside black and grey tones in this cohesive collection that was made up of interesting printed separates. A favourite piece of mine was a long billowing kaftan which had intricate embroidery and sequin detail at the bottom, it cascaded behind the model as she walked down the runway in dramatic fashion.
photos courtesy of Bora Aksu
Bora Aksu In a journey through time and space, we’ll all want to be wearing this collection
In a collection that was out of this world; Aksu drew inspiration from the first woman to go into space “Once you’ve been in space, you appreciate how fragile the Earth is.” Valentina Tereshkova. The light pastel palette created a mystical feel while hues of lilac, purple, pink and green are paired with quieter shades of white, cream and soft blue. The collection reflected the feeling of weightlessness in using layers of organza and tulle which were ruffled, pleated and layered. A number of the creations used iridescent organza to give the appearance of a star like shimmer – effective in some places, too much in others. There’s no denying Aksu’s talent in creating beautiful feminine dresses that have a tender and womanly aura to them. Overall this was a romantic and ethereal collection with some stand out accessories that was a delight to watch.
AW19 written by Stef Carter
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solo
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Photographer: PATRICK NADJARIANS @27HillStudios | Hair and makeup: YUMA BASTET @yumabastet | Model: MERCY ODIMA @whitney_mercy | Accessories: YEVA ADALYAN @yevartsjewelry
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Photographer: VU DINH HAI | Makeup Artist: TRI-ANH NGUYEN @makeupwithanh | Assistant & MUA: HOA MOC LAN | Wardrobe Stylist/Creative Director: DUONG VY | Hair Stylist: NGUYEN HA | Accessory Designer: BUI THANH HA afi 105
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Rebecca wears: Shirt by DOLCE & GABBANA, armband by TIFFANY & CO.
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Photographer: ANNA GREWELDING @annagreweldingphotography |Makeup: NINA GRAESSER @ninag_makeup | Model: REBECCA KUNIKOWSKI @rebecca.ku afi 107
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Photographer: TANYA LOPATINSKAYA @lotagraphia | Model: MARGARITA @ margo.amp | Hair and makeup: KATE GODOVNIK @Godovnikk | Stylist: NATALIA DENEZHKINA @Natalia_denezhkina
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Makeup: Foundation - Lancome Teint Idole Ultra Wear SPF 15 Powder Lumene Nordic Nude Air-Light Compact Powder Blush Shiseido InnerGlow CheekPowder eye shadow YSL Touche Eclat Refill glitter rouge dior liquid Clarins Fall 2017 Graphik Ink Liner Eyeliner Lancome Hypnose Mascara Mascara
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Ksenia wears: Trousers by MAX AND CO
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Photographer: KRISTINA POLI | Model: KSENIA MOSS | Hair and makeup: LINARA SAFIEVA | Wardrobe stylist: YUNNA BARANYUK afi 111
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