Afi vol 2 issue 2

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VOL.2 ISSUE 2

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Contents EDITORIALS “50 Shades of Red” By Jimmy Bollaerts P.04 “Bronze Glow” By Kaela Speicher P.28 “Orange Électrique” By Mohamed Sajid P.34 “Still Here” By Ilona D. Veresk P.40 “In The Mood for Melancholy” By Doris Fatur P.48 “Bright Life” By Vassa Jassa P.66 “From Svea with Love” By Susann Loessin P.72 “Gold & Black” By Miko Colon P.78 “The Emeralds” By Regina Lee P.84 “Daisy” By Rada Dadalova P.102 “Perfect Glow” By Diego Nossa P.110 “Mystic & Glittering” By Ion Jairo P.116

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34

48

40

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INTERVIEWS Beauty With A Quirk - Rebecca Butterworth P.14 Let Your Beauty Shine - Omayma Ramzy P.56 Planting The Terrarium Eyes - Ellie Costello P.94

STYLE All I Want For Christmas... P.22

102 116 72

84 66

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Contributors Jimmy Bollaerts, Julie Burville, Rebecca Butterworth, Ellie Costello, Karl Collins, Miko Colon, Rada Dadalova, Doris Fatur, Vassa Jassa, Ion Jairo, Tiana Kodenko, Susann Loessin, Tracey Lea, Regina Lee, Eva Lurell, Vladyslava Migas, Joanna Mitroi, Diego Nossa, Omayma Ramzy, Aloys Robert, Nicolas Di Santo, Ivy Scarlett, Mohamed Sajid, Kaela Speicher, Egle Vasi, Ilona D. Veresk Guest Editor: Chloe Campbell

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VOL.2 ISSUE 2

editor's Note Welcome to our second winter issue! This year, we have decided to run a beauty theme dedicated to share some of the most stunning beauty works out there. Again, thanks to all our contributors that made this a fantastic issue.

ON THE COVER Photography & Retouching: JIMMY BOLLAERTS @jimbol007 | Model: LAUREN SIRICA @llaurensirica | Model Agency: STYLEDUSTMODELS @styledustmodels | Hair & Makeup: CAROLINE QUIRYNEN @caroline.quirynen | Styling: ELKE PEETERS @elkepeeter

I have always found beauty photography really fascinating in the photography genre, as it is actually very diverse and can range from focusing on makeup products to hair, jewellery and fashion accessories. There is a huge avenue for growth within this industry. When I started as a photographer, beauty shoots were appealing as a hobbyist photographer as you actually don’t need a huge space or lots of complex lighting gear. That being said, commercial or editorial beauty shoots can be very complex and also involve a huge team effort. It is not easy creating several detailed makeup changes in one photo session and requires a bit of planning. Lastly, beauty retouching requires a lot of attention to detail and often requires more time to make compared to fashion images. So hats off to all the retouchers that contributed to the editorials and images in this issue! In this issue, we are really excited to interview some of the leading makeup artists and talents in this industry including Rebecca Butterworth (page 14), senior artist at MAC cosmetics; Omayma Ramzy (page 56), pro makeup artist and winner of best makeup at the L.A film awards; and Ellie Costello (page 94), the young creative genius behind the Terrarium eyes look that went viral. We also have an awesome range of beauty products as Christmas gift ideas selected by makup artist Chloe Campbell. I hope you will enjoy this issue! Merry Christmas and happy New Year to you all! See you next year.

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50 RED SHADES

OF

Photography & Retouching: JIMMY BOLLAERTS @jimbol007 | Model: LAUREN SIRICA @llaurensirica & LOLA ALCALUZAC @lola.alc | Model Agency: STYLEDUSTMODELS @styledustmodels | Hair & Makeup: CAROLINE QUIRYNEN @caroline.quirynen | Styling: ELKE PEETERS @elkepeeter

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Face: Underbase: Kryolan, Urban Decay Pore Perfecting Complexion Primer Potion, Face and body foundation: MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural - Light Plus, Kryolan - Supracolor Red, Blush: MAC Just a Wisp Mineralize Blush, Concealer: Lancôme Effacernes. Eyeshadow: MAC Blackground Pro Longwear Paint Pot, Kryolan Viva Color in Wild Cherry, Nars red eyeshadow, Zoeva Warm Notes, Upperlashes: Kryolan, Underlashes: Shu Uemura, Eyeliner: Lancôme Le Crayon Khôl - Aubergine, Kryolan FX Blood – Dark, Lips: Lancôme Juicy Tubes - Corail Neo Neon, Brows: MAC Transparent Brow gel, Nails: Essie Nail Colour 56 Fishnet Stockings, Hair: Kevin Murphy Session Spray and Powder Puff, Kryolan Color Spray in Pink

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Visor/CD Top/Skirt: LISA JAYNE MILLINERY, OVERSIZED FISHNET TIGHTS: NEW LOOK, SILVER GLITTER BOOTS: NEW LOOK, Jewellery: STYLEXTRAZ, Holographic handbag: NEW LOOK

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Face: Underbase: Kryolan, Urban Decay Pore Perfecting Complexion Primer Potion, Face and body foundation: MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural Light Plus, Kryolan - Supracolor Red, Blush: MAC Just a Wisp Mineralize Blush, Concealer: Lancôme Effacernes. Eyeshadow: MAC Blackground Pro Longwear Paint Pot, Kryolan Viva Color in Wild Cherry, Nars red eyeshadow, Zoeva Warm Notes, Upperlashes: Kryolan, Underlashes: Shu Uemura, Eyeliner: Lancôme Le Crayon Khôl Aubergine, Kryolan FX Blood – Dark, Lips: Lancôme Juicy Tubes - Corail Neo Neon, Brows: MAC Transparent Brow gel, Nails: Essie Nail Colour 56 Fishnet Stockings, Hair: Kevin Murphy Session Spray and Powder Puff, Kryolan Color Spray in Pink

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Face and body: Kryolan Supracolor in red and Bordeaux, Eyes: Zoeva KhĂ´l Opulence, Lips: MAC Clear Lipglass, Hair: Kevin Murphy Body Builder, powder Puff, Doo Over and Session Spray, Kryolan Color Spray in Metallic Red, Nails: Essie Madeleine Loves

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Face: Kryolan Underbase, Urban Decay Pore Perfecting Complexion Primer Potion, Face and body foundation: MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural - Light Plus, Make-up Forever Flash Color palette in Red, Concealer: LancĂ´me Effacernes, Eyeshadow: Kryolan Viva Color Wild Cherry, Nars red eyeshadow, LancĂ´me Darling Pink, Zoeva Warm notes, Glitter primer: NYX, Glitter: Glitterlution Fine Blood Red and Dark Red, Crystals: Swarovski and Kryolan Stones in red, Lips: Kryolan Supracolor in red and dark red, MAC Lipglass - Blushing Berry, Brows: MAC transparent Brow gel, Nails: O.P.I nail polish in Marroon, Hair: Kevin Murphy Powder Puff, Session Spray and Shimmer Shine

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Prep and prime skinbase: MAC, High Definition Foundation: Kryolan, MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Natural - Light Plus, Blush: Bobbi Brown Cream blush in Dessert Rose, Eyes: Make-up Forever Flash Color palette in Red, Kryolan Supracolor in red and bordeaux red, Kryolan Shimmering Vision palette in pink and copper, Eye liner: MAC Eye Kohl – Fascinating, Lips: Kryolan Viva color palette in orange, NYX Pure Red Lipstick, Kryolan FX Blood Dark, Hair: Kevin Murphy Powder Puff and Session Spray, Kryolan Color Spray in Metallic Red

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Feature

BeautyQuirk

spend hours poring over his lush, saturated images for the Dior campaigns.

From the runways of Alexander McQueen to campaign shoots with Nick Knight, pro makeup artist Rebecca Butterworth tells her backstage stories and of her journey from a makeup enthusiast to becoming the senior artist at M.A.C Cosmetics.

What would you say is your signature look?

with a

Tell us a bit about your background and upbringing. How have you become a senior artist for M.A.C? I grew up in the English countryside in a teeny tiny village. My first makeup ‘job’ was doing makeup at the local amateur dramatic society, putting eyeliner onto farmers who had never had makeup on before in their lives! I was always interested in makeup and art of all kinds. I always loved playing with my mum’s makeup, when she went out in the evening I would sneak into her room and rifle through her makeup basket which consisted of all these brilliant late 70s/early eighties brands like Oriflame. It had such a distinctive smell!

nacity. In the early 2000’s MAC was still a relatively small brand in the UK but it was growing at a crazy rate. I made sure I was in the right place at the right time and took every opportunity to get my face and name seen by the decision makers, volunteering for special projects and doing work experience at head office during my holidays from University. You’ve had an incredible career – what have been your highlights?

I feel very fortunate that I found a job that I love and look forward to doing and learning more about (almost!) every day. There have been many highlights though one of the really special moments I had no ambitions to be a makehappened quite recently. I startup artist though. I wanted to be ed working with menswear dea fashion designer and went to signer Craig Green at one of his university to study Fashion Defirst shows and I think everyone sign, which I graduated knew he was going to in, but while I was at I MADE SURE I WAS be someone to watch uni I got a Saturday job IN THE RIGHT PLACE out for right from the working at MAC. It was AT THE RIGHT TIME start. He invited me to only meant to be for six AND TOOK EVERY do makeup for his first months but I discov- OPPORTUNITY TO campaign shoot which ered I loved it and felt GET MY FACE AND was exciting enough. like I’d found my home NAME SEEN BY THE And then I discover at MAC... and here I am DECISION MAKERS that it’s Nick Knight nearly 17 years later! that’ll be shooting the My progression from Saturday campaign. Let me take you back retail artist to Senior Artist is reto 2001, as a fashion student, Nick ally a story of taking baby steps, Knight was an icon of fashion learning my craft and a lot of tephotography to me and I would

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To find myself shooting with him and watching his beautiful images appear on the monitor was just incredible to me. I’m not afraid to tell you I got rather tearful!

That’s too hard for me to say, I’m not sure you ever really know your own style. I’d like to think it might be beauty with a quirk. What are your favourite MAC products? Are you ready for a list?! One of the things I always loved and still love about MAC is the sheer amount of bang-on products. There’s so much good stuff to be found in a MAC shop! I absolutely can’t do without Strobe Cream, especially the Peachlite colour, I always use Pearl or Hush or Shell cream colour base in a makeup one way or another and I’m a huge fan of the Studio Fix Fluid and Studio Fix Powder foundations. The texture of those foundation is second to none and super versatile.

(Left) MAC Strobe Cream 50ml £25, (Right) MAC Studio Fix Fluid 30ml £23.50


Makeup: Rebecca Butterworth Photographer: Boy/Girl Hair: David Wadlow

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Makeup: Rebecca Butterworth, Photographer: Marina Dean Francis, Nails: Sharon Trickett

Who has been the most fun / memorable to do makeup on? What’s the story behind it? One of the most memorable was when I had the opportunity to tour with singer Jessie Ware. It was right at the beginning of my career as a MAC Senior Artist and if I had the chance to do it again, I would do so many things differently. But she was such a joy to work with! At the time her look was all about a strong liner, a dark red lip and a high ponytail or a bun. Over the course of the tour, we changed her look up a little bit, and moved into slightly different textures and colours and it was so exciting to work with someone that talented at the start of their career. We toured in a bus across Europe and the UK for three weeks. Going to sleep in one country and waking up in another one is a real trip! Is there anyone you haven’t worked with that you’d love to? What I wouldn’t give to be a fly on the wall in Pat McGrath’s team. She’s one of the few big names I’ve never had the chance to work with. You’ve worked on quite a few big fashion shows including Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Jean

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Paul Gaultier, Gareth Pugh and Elie Saab to name a few. Can you describe one of your most memorable shows? What was the makeup? Any funny or interesting backstage stories? One of my favourite makeup artists to work with is Alex Box, she’s so emotive and the makeup she creates is always so meaningful with a gorgeous story behind it. One really powerful show that I worked on her team for was one of Gareth Pugh’s shows. I think it was the ten year anniversary of his first collection and the makeup Alex had created was these bright red crosses that she daubed onto each of the models. It was just magical watching her mix up the red paste in a huge copper bowl and then anoint each model with this cross motif. It was like watching a ritual take place. This was also the show where I managed to paint a poor model’s face and body with hand santiser instead of the specialist protective primer we were supposed to using. Oops! What can I say, the bottles were really similar! If you turn up at a show/shoot and the model has terrible skin, what do you do? Cry and ask if the photographer knows a good retoucher!

What I really do is spend as much time prepping the models skin, cleansing, moisturising and treating it as the schedule allows. I also do make sure I talk to the photographer (if it’s a shoot) to see if we can make tweaks in the lighting or the way the model will be shot. I also try to find out what the photographer is prepared to do in post-production. Sometimes it’s easier to just leave the skin as it is and fix it in post-production. At shows, obviously that’s not an option so I get to work with Evian water spray and get the skin super hydrated and treated and then get in there with some colour correctors and great concealers applied with a small brush for the most natural look possible. I love MAC Studio Finish concealer and I’ve just started working with Sian Richards London’s range of waterproof cream foundations which are just startlingly good. Can you tell us a bit about your masterclass with special effects artist Neill Gorton, at the London IMATS last year? That was a lot of fun, but really quite nervewracking. It came about from a previous class that Neill and I had taught on combining special FX makeup with fashion and he asked if I would present with him at IMATS.


Neill is great to work with and very open to ideas. He’s also taught me to try and relax a little bit when creating and presenting makeup. My default mode is to try to anticipate and control every outcome whereas he’s much happier to see where things go, how they unfold and react to that which is actually a really healthy way to work. I gave him a few ideas to work from but the one we ended up choosing was based around a Japanese practice called Kintsugi (or kintsukori) where repairs are made with gold so that a crack or flaw becomes a thing of beauty rather than something to hide. (It’s a good metaphor for where we are in the beauty industry right now, I think!). Neill then created beautiful silicone pieces that we applied and painted on stage with liquid gold (MAC Gold pigment). It’s still one of my favourite bits of work that I’ve done. What is in your personal makeup bag? Any beauty routines for yourself? My personal makeup bag is more like a makeup sack with constantly revolving products as I try new stuff out. But the products I always have and go back to are MAC Prolongwear Concealer, which I use as a foundation, MAC Ruby Woo lipstick and MAC Upward Lash mascara. I’m obsessed with Estee Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair eye patches, which are brilliant for reviving tired eyes. It’s a running joke with my friends just how many lipsticks I carry around with me in my handbag on a daily basis! There’s usually at least seven in various colours. What are your top five do and don’t’s beauty tips? DO take your makeup off everyday. I know it’s dull and honestly for years I didn’t bother but it really truly makes all the difference, especially if you’re prone to spots. DON’T use wipes to do this. You

Makeup: Rebecca Butterworth, Photographer: Arved Colvin, Hair: Panos Papandrianos, Styling: Phoebe Arnold

need to use a rinse-off, preferably non-foaming cleanser. DON’T take it seriously. Makeup washes off and you can start again if you don’t like it! DO spend time on your skincare routine. It doesn’t have to be complicated or expensive, but if your skin looks amazing the rest of your makeup glows. DO find your perfect red lipstick. It might take a while to find a shade you love but I’m a firm believer in the power of a red lip.

Do find your perfect red lipstick. It might take a while to find a shade you love but I’m a firm believer in the power of a red lip. afi 17


What’s next? Any exciting projects coming up? After nearly 20 years with MAC, I’m taking a side step into a different part of the industry in the new year. I can’t tell you much more than that right now - but it’s massive and very exciting for me! What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned as a makeup artist? One is probably a cliché, but a cliché because it’s true – you can never stop learning! A big lesson though, is to learn discretion. You never know who you are talking to and you never want to get a reputation as a gossip. If you talk about a client in anything less than glowing terms to another client they’ll quite rightly assume that you’ll talk about them to someone else. Any words of advice for someone wishing to break into the beauty industry? It’s a really interesting time for working in the beauty industry, there’s much more freedom to get your name out there and side step some of the traditional hierarchies by putting your work on social media and have your audience come to you. Having said that I still think the best way to gain skills and knowledge is by assisting other makeup artists and/or working on a busy makeup counter. It’s also so important to recognise the difference in putting makeup on yourself and putting makeup on someone else. I know that sounds obvious, but right now a lot of people are mixing up those skill sets. I’ve seen a lot of ‘makeup artists’ who only ever put makeup on themselves really struggle in professional industry environments because they haven’t learned the necessary skills of speed and communication that you only get from making up someone else’s face.

www.rebeccabutterworth.com @MAC_Rebecca_B @rebeccabmakeup Makeup: Rebecca Butterworth, Photographer: Richard Miles, Hair: Headmasters Art Team, Styling: Taheed K

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Makeup: Rebecca Butterworth Photographer: Boy/Girl Hair: David Wadlow

“

I still think the best way to gain skills and knowledge is by assisting other makeup artists and/or working on a busy make up counter.

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Foundation: Charlotte Tilbury Eyes: Bobbi Brown Lips: Mac Cosmetics Cheeks: Mac Cosmetics

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Photography: NICOLAS DI SANTO @nicolasdisantostudio | Model: JAGODA SZCZESNA @berry_j_blue | Hair and Makeup: FLORA GENG @ floragengmakeup | Retoucher: JOANA KABAKAITE @ joana_lith | Photoshoot location: 69 Drops Studio, London

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Style

All I Want For Christmas... A Beauty Gifts Guide

by Chloe Campbell

Christmas is approaching and the signs are all around us: colder weather, reruns of your favourite Christmas Classics, special festive coffees at Starbucks and your favourite brands launching limited edition Xmas makeup. Think fancy packaging, shimmer and sparkles and exclusivity. So if you are struggling for gift ideas for the makeup addict in your life look no further than this crucial guide as you can be sure they won’t have any of these gems yet.

Chloe is a professional makeup artist based in Sussex UK. Her first ever makeup job was a high profile music video. She’s bilingual and is now learning to alter clothes! Follow her on Instagram @chloebellle, and facebook @chloecampbellmua

K.I.S.S.I.N.G AMERICAN SWEETHEART CHARLOTTE TILBURY has a whole page on their website dedicated to limited edition christmas specials, but here at Afi magazine our favourite is the American Sweetheart lipstick. With a snowy statue of liberty as the packaging what’s more christmassy than New York in the snow? www.charlottetilbury.com

SNOW BALL This year MAC has focused it’s christmas “Snow Ball” collection around the cool tones of winter. Icy blues and sparkling silvers adorn their packaging, but a quick scroll on their Holiday’s special page will fill you with dismay as most of it is already sold out. So while you keep your fingers crossed for a restock check out their Snowball brush set, because a bit like shoes, you can never have enough brushes, right? www.maccosmetics.co.uk

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NARS LOVE TRIANGLE DEEP THROAT NARS a bit like Mac are selling out fast. They’ve combined their best loved pigmented products and gift wrapped them in a christmas tree inspired triangular box. Pushing to one side the lack of festive names the “Deep throat” lipstick and blush are number one sellers for Nars and now you can have both all wrapped uplike a christmas tree. www.narscosmetics.co.uk

SPARKLE ALL NIGHT EYES & CHEEKS BOBBI BROWNS Christmas gift guide is very cleverly categorised by who the present is for. So for any clueless men (or women) out there you can shop appropriate products for your mum, sister, friend or girlfriend by simply clicking on the right menu choice. A clear winner across the board for any makeup fiend in your life is the Sparkle all night Cheek and eyes palette: This beautifully glittery palette comes with 2 tiers, (yes 2 TIERS!!!) of multiple eyeshadow and blushers that are sure to suit any complexion, a real safe bet if you’re not sure what colours would suit the receiver. www.bobbibrown.co.uk

SUGAR GLOW KIT ANASTASIA BEVERLY HILLS is probably best known for its amazing range of highlighters and this cosmetic heavy weight has not disappointed us in the holiday season. Amongst other irresistible makeup must haves in its “Gift suite” the Sugar Highlighter set jumps out at us as the hardest to say no to. This set of 4 highlighters have both warm and cool undertones to suite every and any complexion and have wonderfully festive names like “Marshmallow” and “Gumdrop”. www.anastasiabeverlyhills.co.uk

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Photography: EGLE VASI @ eglevasi | Model: NATASHA SOODEEN | Model agency: 25 MODEL MANAGEMENT @25modelmgmt | Makeup: SUZANNE PEPPARD @ suzannemua | Hair stylist: SUZANNE JANINE MARINO @janine_marino_hair | Wardrobe stylist: VICTORIA ELLIS @vixellis | Nail artist: MARRIE-LOUISE COSTER @mlcnailartist | Photoshoot location: Barton St. David, UK

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Skin: Kryolan cream foundation and translucent powder, Stila Heaven’s Hue highlighter, Eyes: Eyelure Brow gel, Arbonne Mascara, Arbonne black eyeliner, Kryolan Aquacolour in yellow, Lips: Dr Lipp nipple balm

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MAC Pigments & Glitters Kryolan Aquacolor in Black

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Photography: D SLATER @onemore.photos | Model: JULIE BURVILLE @julieburville | Makeup: RACHAEL KENT @rachaelkentmua

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Face: Face Atelier- Ultra Foundation, #4 Sand, Kryolan- Concealer Circle (USA), Benefit Cosmetics- Hoola Matte Bronzer, LORAC Cosmetics- Color Source Buildable Blush, Tinge, Becca CosmeticsShimmering Skin Perfector, Moonstone, RCMA- No Color Powder, Ben Nye- Banana Powder, Skindinavia- The Makeup Finishing Spray Brows: Studio Gear- Brow Set,Anastasia Beverly HillsBrow Powder Duo in Soft Brown Eyes: Urban Decay- Original Eyeshadow Primer, Buxom Cosmetics- Eyeshadow & Silk Sheets, Urban Decay-Naked Eyeshadow Palette, Naked and Buck, L’Oreal Paris- Voluminous Lash Paradise Mascara, Mystic Black Lips: Tarte CosmeticsQuench Lip Rescue, Rose Lips: Becca CosmeticsShimmering Skin Perfector, Moonstone Gems/Glitter: SwarovskiSmoked Topaz and Light Topaz, NYX Professional MakeupFace and Body Glitter Brilliants, Gold, Bronze, and Copper

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BRONZE GLOW

Photography: KAELA SPEICHER @kaela_speicher | Model: ABBIE STRAUGHN @abbiestraughn| Model Agency: Wilhelmina LA & Chi/NEXT Miami/Docherty Agency | Makeup: BRAZIL RAINE @ brazilrainemakeupartist | Hair Stylist: KATRINA CAHILL @katrinashairstory | Nail Stylist: MYNGOC TRAN OF I LOVE NAILS @oh_myngoc | Retoucher: LUCA SZALMĂ S @lucaszalmas

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Face: Face Atelier- Ultra Foundation, #4 Sand, KryolanConcealer Circle (USA), Benefit Cosmetics- Hoola Matte Bronzer Smashbox- Contour Kit, Light/Medium LORAC Cosmetics- Color Source Buildable Blush, Tinge Becca Cosmetics- Shimmering Skin Perfector, Moonstone Anastasia Beverly HillsSun Dipped Glow Kit, Moonstone RCMA- No Color Powder Ben Nye- Banana Powder Skindinavia- The Makeup Finishing Spray Brows: Studio Gear- Brow Set Anastasia Beverly HillsBrow Powder Duo in Soft Brown Eyes: Urban Decay- Original Eyeshadow Primer Buxom Cosmetics- Eyeshadow, Silk Sheets Urban Decay- Naked Eyeshadow Palette, Smog and Darkhorse L’Oreal Paris- Voluminous Lash Paradise Mascara, Mystic Black Lips: Tarte Cosmetics- Lip Rescue, Rose Becca Cosmetics- Shimmering Skin Perfector, Moonstone

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Face: Face Atelier- Ultra Foundation, #4 Sand, KryolanConcealer Circle (USA), Benefit Cosmetics- Hoola Matte Bronzer, SmashboxContour Kit, Light/Medium, LORAC Cosmetics- Color Source Buildable Blush, Tinge, Becca CosmeticsShimmering Skin Perfector, Moonstone, Anastasia Beverly Hills- Sun Dipped Glow Kit, Moonstone, RCMA- No Color Powder, Ben Nye- Banana Powder, Skindinavia- The Makeup Finishing Spray Brows: Studio Gear- Brow Set, Anastasia Beverly Hills- Brow Powder Duo in Soft Brown Eyes: Urban Decay- Original Eyeshadow Primer, Buxom Cosmetics- Eyeshadow, Silk Sheets, Urban Decay- Naked Eyeshadow Palette, Smog and Darkhorse, LORAC Cosmetics- Mega Pro Palette 3, Brown Sugar and Dk. Roast, ColourPop CosmeticsCrème Gel ColourEyeliner Pot, Swerve, L’Oreal ParisVoluminous Lash Paradise Mascara, Mystic Black Lips: Tarte Cosmetics- Lip Rescue, Rose, Becca CosmeticsShimmering Skin Perfector, Moonstone

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ORANGE ÉLECTRIQUE

Photography: MOHAMED SAJID @Sajidphotography | Model: HAFSSA @haafssabahajji | Model agency: SAJIMED AGENCY | Hair & Makeup: MORGANE RIVET @morgane_rivet_artmakeup For @artmakeupmaroc | Retoucher: ABDEL KEBDANI @abdelkebdani | All Makeup looks using YAN&ONE products @yanoneofficial | Location: Casablanca, Morocco

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STILL HERE Photographer: Ilona D. Veresk @ilonaveresk | Makeup & hair: Nura Zu @ nurazu | Model: Nastya Pilepchuk @nastia_pilepchuk | Direction: Surena Purbueva | For “From Siberia with Love� Campaign @fromsiberia_wl

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Base: Mac face & body foundation N1, Guerlain precious light illuminator, Eyebrows: Anastasia brow gel Eyes: Red Cherry 218 false eyelashes, Kryolan supra colour, Lips & face: Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour cream

IN THE MOOD

FOR MELANCHOLY Photography: DORIS FATUR @doris.fatur | Model: LAURA BRACUN @bracun_l | Model Agency: TALIA MODELS @taliamodel_official | Makeup: PETRA SEVER @petrasever

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Base: Mac face & body foundation N1, Make-Up Designory blue corrector 1 & 2, Cheeks: Illamasqua cream blusher in Seduce, Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour cream, Eyes: Loreal Gel eyeliner in black, Illamasqua liquid metal in Electrum, Lips: The Balm cheek and lip cream palette - How ‘bout them apples - in Cobbler

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Base: Mac face & body foundation N1, Cheeks: Bobbi Brown pot rouge for lips and cheeks in chocolate cherry Eyes: Kryolan aqua colour blue, Illamasqua liquid metal in Electrum, Lips: Elizabeth Arden Eight hour cream

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Base: MAC face & body foundation N1, Guerlain precious light illuminator, Eyebrows: Anastasia medium brown brow powder & Anastasia transparent brow gel, Eyes: Mac mineralize skin finish in soft & gentle, Make Up Designory eyeshadow in taupe, Max Factor 2000 Calorie mascara black, Cheeks: Make Up Designory Sunshine bronzer & Dior blush 639 Brun cannelle sunkissed cinnamon, Lips: Dior rouge dior 743 zinnia red

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Base: MAC face & body foundation N1, Guerlain precious light illuminator, Eyebrows: Anastasia medium brown brow powder & Anastasia transparent brow gel, Eyes: Mac mineralize skin finish in soft & gentle, Make Up Designory eyeshadow in taupe, Loreal gel eyeliner in black, Max Factor 2000 Calorie mascara black, Cheeks: Make Up Designory Sunshine bronzer & Dior blush 639 Brun cannelle sunkissed cinnamon, Lips: Illamasqua lipstick in ESP

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Base: Mac face & body foundation n1, Yves Saint Laurent Touche Eclat 1, Eyebrows: Make Up Designory eyeshadow in espresso, Eyes: Illamasqua pure pigment in Furore, Loreal gel eyeliner in black, Diego Dalla Palma eye pencil 01, Max Factor 2000 Calorie mascara black, Cheeks: Make Up Designory Endless Summer bronzer, Lips: Collistar gloss design 3

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Base: Mac face & body foundation N1, Make Up Designory blue corrector 1 & 2, Eyebrows: Anastasia medium brown brow powder, Eyes: Make Up Designory eyeshadows in Bone, Taupe & Esspreso, Loreal gel eyeliner in black, Max Factor 2000 calorie mascara black, Cheeks: Illamasqua blush in Ambition, Highlighter: Illamasqua ESP, Lips: Make Up Geek lipstick Adorable

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Feature

Can you tell us about your upbringing? How did you become a makeup artist? Having come from a family of artists (my mother a writer, step father a writer and sculptor, father a musician and step mother a dancer), it’s no surprise that I ended up finding myself along this path. I started with studying fine art as I always had a fascination with painting and design, and when I was at university, I ended up at one point thinking, Hmm, what will happen if I take the canvas away between me and my subject, and make the subject, the actual subject of my art. This was interesting to me, and I ended up taking a degree in hair and makeup for film and TV at London College of Fashion. You moved from a relatively quiet English country side town in Sussex to the buzzing celebrity filled Los Angeles. What made you decide to move from England to L.A? What is it like working as a makeup artist in L.A?

Makeup artist Omayma Ramzy, photo by Ray kachatorian

Let Your Beauty Shine with Omayma Ramzy

Meet Omayma, British born pro makeup artist based in Los Angeles who recently won the best makeup title at the Los Angeles Film Awards September 2017. Her passion for art and beauty has led to a journey to the stars. Omayma tells us more.

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I was 24 and felt like I was ready for a change. I absolutely adore London as a city, but I started getting offered jobs out in LA, and I kind of looked myself in the mirror and thought, Damn. I’m 24, debt free, husband free, kid free, this is probably the only time you’ll be able to just pack your life down to two suitcases and up and go with no repercussions if it goes no-where. So I did! Working in LA has been such an adventure. I mean, the weather here is quite a big change of course, but that too, I’ve found that I love the work environment. There’s a Go-Getter attitude here that I’ve found stimulating and exciting for where I’m at in my life. Tell us about your first Big job. My first big job was probably a movie called The Year of Spectacular Men. It was the first job that had lots of celebrities involved and I loved it. I’d say I probably learned


Makeup artist Omayma Ramzy, photo by Lloyd Galbraith, model Jaida Bentley, set design by Talon Mckee

the most on that job too, and got a wonderful intro into film making in LA. The crew were lovely too, and I still work with many of them over and over again to this day. What has been the highlight of your career so far? Ah! So many highlights! I’d say I feel like growing so much as an artist over the last year has been really something for me. I’ve really found that I’ve been able to refine and explore my creative process as an artist and that’s probably what’s most special to me. A huge CONGRADULATIONS on your recent “best makeup” award at the LA film awards! What was it like winning this huge title? Can you tell us a bit more about the makeup you did for the winning film “Pre”? Yes thank you!! It was a huge accomplishment for me! I won 3 awards on that job! The director and producer (Animi.Design’s Kalie Acheson and Charles

Latham) are amazingly creative. They come from an insane background in production design and created the most amazing world out of thin air for this story to take place in. Creating the looks was really wonderful to me, especially as a lot of the work was with physical makeup effect application over a stop-motion piece. The makeup showed our lead character degrading over a trip dream sequence from taking a future drug. What is your signature makeup look? My signature look is perfected skin, a perfected dew with a hazy neutral eye. But ultimately, its all about perfect skin to me. There’s nothing I love more than finding the beauty that already exists in someone and letting it shine and highlighting that. Working with beauty so closely, I noticed that so many women feel they aren’t beautiful, or need to change their faces physically to be considered beautiful. To me this is something

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that society (and unfortunately social media) has dictated, and is honestly completely false. There’s beauty in absolutely every person I look to, and my role is to show the person what’s already there. :) What are the next makeup products on your wish list? Oooh! There are so many, and I’m constantly trying new things. NARS and Kevyn Aucoin are sending me a few things to try out from my wish lists right now and I couldn’t be more excited. What would you consider to be the most essential must have makeup / tools in any makeup bag? The perfect foundation for you. There are SO many types, consistencies, finishes, shades, etc out there, and it’s really not a one-forall kind of thing! For me personally, where I’m going natural I wear Vapour Luminous Stick Foundation, it’s organic too and so for daily use has no nasties and leaves a beautiful glow. If I’m going to dress my skin up a bit, I’ll go to Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation. I swear by it. A multi-use. A great example is the Jillian Dempsey Lid Tints. I love them. They work great for your eye lids, cheeks and can add a hint of colour to your lips too!

Do you have any beauty routines for yourself? Yes of course! I’m all about skincare. I use the Amanda Lacey Cleansing Pommade, and rub it all over my face. Then I massage in some water and rinse it off. It’s my favourite cleansing balm, because it fully breaks down makeup and doesn’t leave my skin greasy at all. Then I use the Benir Beauty BV9 face serum (enriched with bee venom!!). It smells great and plumps my skin with anti-aging products that, let’s face it, we all love. I then follow up with Murad Hydro Dynamic Face cream. I love it. It feels rich and soaks into my skin leaving it hydrated but not greasy. I’ll then go with an eye cream from Caudalie called Cru. I love that too! I’m also really into Dr Babor’s serum’s right now, and alternate the Benir with their collagen serum too. For my makeup I tend to use the vapor stick foundation, and blend it with a blending sponge from Japonesque, I love Bodyography USA too, they have these amazing glitter pigments and I’ll do a little sweep on my lids with some mascara. For blush I have a cream one from MAC that I love too that I’ll add a little to my face with. Then a little mascara and that’s it really! I like to keep my own makeup very simple a lot of the time.

You recently teamed up with cutting edge designer Mascara - My holy-grail is Radka Salcmannova at the Beauty Pie Uber Mascara. Los Angeles Fashion Week It has a fantastic wand and SS18, and created some consistency and doesn’t Makeup artist Omayma Ramzy with model backstage at LA fashion week real stunning runway crumble off throughout the makeup looks. Can you deday (that’s a big deal for me). scribe the makeup you did? How you came up with the idea and what’s the story behind this makeup? I would say also that if you’re looking to invest in upgrading your skin look, start with skin care. With Yes thank you! I was working with photographer great skincare you will have great makeup looks! Lloyd Galbraith on some creative shoots and the Are there any specific challenges in doing a film media makeup as compared to stills? The real joy for film making for me is taking a character and really breaking him/her down over the time line. In every movie I do, I take the script and make a spreadsheet of everyone, what happens to each character by scene and add in continuity markers too. That way when I come to shooting the film it’s all there ready for me, numbered out exactly and I can see who is doing what and where.

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designer saw something I did with him and hunted me down! It was really wonderful working with Radka and the team as the pieces were coming together for the show. They had so much detail that it made sense to me, to do something bold, pigmented, but also simple, so as to have a statement, but also to add rather than distract from the ornamented clothing pieces. It was great fun, and I used the Temptu Air Pod to create the looks. The team backstage were absolute champions, and it was wonderful to get to be part of the show.


(Left) Model: Nadia Llorens, photo by Djeneba Aduayom, direction by Jeanie Mordukhay, styled by Tara Hunt, hair by Junie (Right) Model: Paris Helena, makeup by Omayma Ramzy, photo by Legend, styled by Chaine Leyendecker (Middle below) Model: Mollie, makeup by Omayma Ramzy, photo by Lloyd Galbraith

Apart from being a world-class makeup artist, you are also the CEO of your own Makeup and Styling Company Omayma Inc. Can you tell us more about your company?

moved here, and now I have it hung up above my bed. It’s silly, but that moment I fell in love with his work was a time I grew and changed so much as a person, and having had that conHaha yes! My company is great! We service the stant thing there reminds me of it. industry with makeup, hair and styling needs across lots of platWhat is the most important forms. It’s my baby but lesson you have learnt so far I love it. in your career as a makeup artist? You are a bit of an arts I’d say that I really will fanatic. Do you have a never stop learning, I’ll favourite painter? How never stop developing, does art inspire you in there’s always something your makeup creations? new to look at and be inspired by. Knowing that is Aha!! I LOVE THIS humbling for me, it keeps QUESTION SO me looking at the maraMUCH BECAUSE I thon versus the sprint as AM! My absolute fasuch. I keep open comvourite painting is by munication with everyone Meredith Frampton, I work with, I allow them of a woman standing to help me improve, and with an upright bass/ then we improve together. cello. It’s perfectly proportioned throughout the image, and her gaze gets me every time. It’s in the Tate Modern museum in London. I used Any other advice for makeup artists starting out? to go visit her sometimes 3 times a week on my lunch breaks as I worked nearby. There’s some- Assist assist assist! Make friends with other thing so calming about the stance, the gaze, the makeup artists. Learn from other photograwhole thing to me. I’m also an avid Man Ray phers, learn from doing your craft. The exfan. I have a poster of one of his prints from perience of doing makeup and seeing your www.omaymaramzy.com an exhibition in London quite some time ago. work, critiquing your own work is really what @miyma_ramzy It’s travelled with me across all of the US on a will improve you, and you can do it! road trip I did from East to West when I first

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Photography: KARL COLLINS @karlcollinsphotographer | Model: SHANNON AITKEN @shannonaitken | Model agency: BOSS MODELS MANCHESTER @bossmodelmanagement | Makeup: BETH MCKENDRICK @ bethmckendrickmakeup | Photoshoot location: Reuben Woods Creatives, Manchester

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Base: MAC Face and Body with Studio Fix concealer Glow: MAC Oil Stick and MAC Pearl Contour: Illamasqua cream in Hollow Eye: Ben Nye Magicolor Lips: MAC lip liner and matte liquid lipstick in Candy Yum Yum Brows: Rimmel Clear brow gel

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Photography: VLADYSLAVA MIGAS @migasphotography | Makeup: ISABELLE VON WEGERER @isabellevonwegerer | Model: JUNE KANAMEA @kanameajune

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Skin: Mac Cosmetics Glitter: Nyx Eyebrows: Soap Brows

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Skin: TWOK London Foundation- colour 140, MAC Studio Perfecting stick in NC45 & 50, Laura Mercier translucent powder. Eyes: Huda Beauty - Desert Dusk Palette. Brows: MAC Brun Eyeshadow Lips (this page): MAC-Boldly bare lip pencil, MAC- clear lip glass Lips (mext page): MAC-soar Lip pencil, MAC- soar lip gloss


Photography: HARVEY ARAJA @harveyaraja | Model: ELIANA ORTIZ @ iamelianaortiz | Model Agency: BODY LONDON @bodylondon | Creative Direction & Stylist: IVY SCARLETT @loveivyscarlett | Makeup: REBEKAH CAMPBELL @bexcxmpbell

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Base: LULU Mattifying Fluid Foundation: Kryolan ultra foundation palette Powder: LULU Mattifying fixing powder Rouge: ManlyPro Cream Blush Eyes: Kiko mascara Ultra tech+ Black, Inglot Duraline, NYX Ultimate Shadow palette brights 04 Lipstick: L’Oreal Julianne’s pure red Eyebrows: LULU eyebrow expert

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BRIGHT LIFE

Photography: VASSA JASSA @vassajassa| Models: VALERIYA PESHKOVA @valeriyapeshkova, IRINA DANDELION @irisha_dandelion, MARIA ILINA @mariaolegovna_ilina | Makeup: VIKA WOOD @wood_vika | Location: Moscow | Camera equipment: Canon eos 7d 18-135mm

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Powder: LULU Mattifying fixing powder Rouge: ManlyPro Cream Blush Eyes: Kiko mascara ultra tech+ Black, NYX vivid brights violet vivid, NYX ultimate shadow palette brights 04 Lipstick: L’Oreal color 364 Eyebrows: LULU eyebrow expert

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Powder: LULU Mattifying fixing powder Rouge: ManlyPro Cream Blush Eyes: Kiko mascara ultra tech+ Black, NYX vivid brights violet vivid, NYX ultimate shadow palette brights 04 Lipstick: L’Oreal color 364 Eyebrows: LULU eyebrow expert

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Base: LULU Mattifying Fluid Foundation: Kryolan ultra foundation palette Powder: LULU Mattifying fixing powder Rouge: ManlyPro Cream Blush Eyes: Kiko mascara Ultra tech+ Black, Inglot Duraline, NYX Ultimate Shadow palette brights 04 Lipstick: L’Oreal Julianne’s pure red Eyebrows: LULU eyebrow expert

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Base: LULU Mattifying Fluid Foundation: Kryolan ultra foundation palette Powder: LULU Mattifying fixing powder Rouge: ManlyPro Cream Blush Eyes: Kiko mascara Ultra tech+ Black, Inglot Duraline, NYX Ultimate Shadow palette brights 04 Lipstick: L’Oreal Julianne’s pure red Eyebrows: LULU eyebrow expert

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Photography: SUSANN LOESSIN @ susannloessin | Model: SVEA JILL CZECH @sveajillczech | Model Agency: JAY JAY MODELS @jayjaymodels | Makeup: ANGELIQUE WALTENBERG @angelique.waltenberg

FROM SVEA

WITH LOVE

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Foundation: Kryolan Ultra Foundation, Kryolan Transparent Powder, Eyes: Revolution Makeup London Palette New-Trals vs Neutrals, Kryolan Aquacolor Interferenz Silver Grey, Eyebrows: Mac Eyeshadow Cork, Waterline: Kryolan Kajal 905, Lashes: Maybelline The Colossal Volum` Express Waterproof, Rouge: Kryolan Blush Palette 10 Colors, Revolution Makeup London Ultra Blush Palette Golden Sugar 2 Rose Gold, Lips: Essence Metal Shock Lip Paint 02 Hemlock

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Foundation: Kryolan Ultra Foundation, Kryolan Transparent Powder, Eyes: Revolution Makeup London Palette New-Trals vs Neutrals, Kryolan Aquacolor Interferenz Silver Grey, Eyebrows: Mac Eyeshadow Cork, Waterline: Kryolan Kajal 905, Lashes: Maybelline The Colossal Volum` Express Waterproof, Rouge: Kryolan Blush Palette 10 Colors, Revolution Makeup London Ultra Blush Palette Golden Sugar 2 Rose Gold, Lips: Essence Metal Shock Lip Paint 02 Hemlock

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Foundation: Kryolan Ultra Foundation, Kryolan Transparent Powder, Eyes: Revolution Makeup London Palette New-Trals vs Neutrals, Kryolan Aquacolor 081, Eyebrows: Mac Eyeshadow Cork, Eyeliner: L’Oréal Superliner Black Laquer von, Waterline: Kryolan Kajal 905, Lashes: The Colossal Volum` Express Waterproof Maybelline, Rouge: Kryolan Blush Palette 10 Colors, Revolution Makeup, London Ultra Blush Palette Golden Sugar 2 Rose Gold, Lips: Kiko Lipstick Palette 01, Nyx Cosmetics Mega Shine Lip Gloss

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Foundation: Kryolan Ultra Foundation, Kryolan Transparent Powder, Eyes: Revolution Makeup London Palette New-Trals vs Neutrals, Kryolan Aquacolor 081, Eyebrows: Mac Eyeshadow Cork, Eyeliner: L’Oréal Superliner Black Laquer von, Waterline: Kryolan Kajal 905, Lashes: The Colossal Volum` Express Waterproof Maybelline, Rouge: Kryolan Blush Palette 10 Colors, Revolution Makeup, London Ultra Blush Palette Golden Sugar 2 Rose Gold, Lips: Kiko Lipstick Palette 01, Nyx Cosmetics Mega Shine Lip Gloss

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Foundation: Kryolan Ultra Foundation, Kryolan Transparent Powder, Eyes: Revolution Makeup London Palette New-Trals vs Neutral, Kryolan Aquacolor Metallic in Metallic Gold, Kryolan Aquacolor UV Dayglow UV-Pink, Eyebrows: Mac Eyeshadow Cork, Waterline: Kryolan Kajal 905, Lashes: Maybelline The Colossal Volum` Express Waterproof, Rouge: Kryolan Blush Palette 10 Colors, Revolution Makeup London Ultra Blush Palette Golden Sugar 2 Rose Gold, Lips: Kryolan Aquacolor Metallic in Metallic Gold, Kiko Lipstick Palette 01, Nyx Cosmetics Mega Shine Lip Gloss

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GOLD

&

BLACK

Photography: MIKO COLON @mikocolon | Model: NISSI CHIMA @nissichima | Hair & Makeup: J. CHAKRA ALARIAO @msjchakra | Assistant: JERICO RYAN MAGPANTAY @jecoinodeal Location: Al-Khobar, Kingdom Of Saudi Arabia Camera equipment: CANON 7D, Canon 50mm lens, Godox ad360, Beauty Dish, Strip box

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Foundation: Sephora Eyeshadow: Mac Lips: Inglot Accessories: Stylist Own & Monalisa Metal Leaf

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Foundation: Sephora Eyeshadow: Mac Lips: Inglot Accessories: Stylist Own & Monalisa Metal Leaf

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Foundation: Sephora Eyeshadow: Mac Lips: Inglot Accessories: Stylist Own & Monalisa Metal Leaf

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Foundation: Sephora Eyeshadow: Mac Lips: Inglot Accessories: Stylist Own & Monalisa Metal Leaf

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Foundation: Sephora Eyeshadow: Mac Lips: Inglot Accessories: Stylist Own & Monalisa Metal Leaf

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Skin: VOV Pure Make-up Base in green, VOV Pure Liquid Foundation in natural beige, Just make up Concealer FatMeans, Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultra Radiance Concealer/Smoothing Base, Just make up Loose Powder, Just make up Dry Correcting Blusher, Code Color Blusher, Anastasia Beverly Hills Sun Dipped Glow Kit (Summer), Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion, Lips: Lucas Papaw Ointment, Sigil Inspired Tammy Tanuka Pigment (LEFT - Elizaveta) Eyebrows: Vivienne Sabo Fixateur (Eyebrows and lashes fixing transparent gel), Eyes: Sigil Inspired Tammy Tanuka Pigment, Just Eyeshadow, Inglot Duraline, Maybelline Lash Sensational, Manly PRO Liquid Glass

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(RIGHT - Lyubov) Eyebrows: Vivienne Sabo Fixateur (Eyebrows and lashes fixing transparent gel), Sigil Inspired Tammy Tanuka Pigment, Eyes: Just Water Line


THE EMERALDS

Photography: REGINA LEE @lee_rina_ | Model: LYUBOV NAZARKINA @lovelysolution, ELIZAVETA EVDOKIMOVA @elizaveta_evdokimova, ALINA GALIMOVA @diva_rozenberg | Hair & Makeup: MARINA AGAPOVA @agapova.studio | Location: Russia, Kazan | Camera equipment: Canon 60D, Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II

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(LEFT - Alina) Eyebrows: Inglot Brow Liner Gel AMC, Vivienne Sabo Fixateur (Eyebrows and lashes fixing transparent gel) Eyes: Eva Garden Eye Pencl, Just Eyeshadow, Just Eyeshadow Jean’s J, Sigil Inspired Tammy Tanuka Pigments, Inglot Eyeliner Gel AMC, Maybelline Lash Sensational Lips: Lucas Papaw Ointment, Luxvisage Pin Up Ultra Matt

(RIGHT - Elizaveta) Eyebrows: Vivienne Sabo Fixateur (Eyebrows and lashes fixing transparent gel), Eyes: Sigil Inspired Tammy Tanuka Pigment, Just Eyeshadow, Inglot Duraline, Maybelline Lash Sensational, Manly PRO Liquid Glass

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Skin: VOV Pure Make-up Base in green, VOV Pure Liquid Foundation in natural beige, Just make up Concealer FatMeans, Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultra Radiance Concealer/Smoothing Base, Just make up Loose Powder, Just make up Dry Correcting Blusher, Code Color Blusher, Anastasia Beverly Hills Sun Dipped Glow Kit (Summer), Urban Decay Eyeshadow Primer Potion, Lips: Lucas Papaw Ointment, Sigil Inspired Tammy Tanuka Pigment , Eyebrows: Vivienne Sabo Fixateur (Eyebrows and lashes fixing transparent gel), Sigil Inspired Tammy Tanuka Pigment, Eyes: Just Water Line

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Photography: ALOYS ROBERT @aloysrobert | Model: ANDREA MAIRE @andreamaire1 | Makeup: JUSTINE CHERY @justine_chery

Huda Beauty - Rose gold palette Marc Jacobs - Dew Drops highlighter Marc Jacobs - Velvet Mascara RCMA - foundation Zoeva - Brush, highlighter & foundation / concealer Anastasia Beverly Hilles - Gel Sourcils

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Photography: TRACEY LEA @ traceyleaphoto | Model: KATERINA CHRISTO @kaceychristo | Makeup: LUCIANA ANDRIANA @lucianaandriano | Wardrobe Stylist: LEGGERA NELL’ARIA @ Leggeranellaria | Millinery - NIAMH TIERNEY @niamhtierneymillinery | Art direction: LAURA GODBOLT @ljgodbolt

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Top - Leggara Nell’Aria, Silver gloves - Ad Hoc London, Hat Niamh Tierney

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Photography and retouch: EVALURELLPHOTOGRAPHY @photographybyevalurell | Model: ZOE | Model agency: NORDIC MODEL AGENCY @nordicmodelagency | Makeup and wardrobe styling: JARA @nordicmodelagency | Hair stylist: EVA LURELL @ makeupbyevalurell

Skin: Lumene Kuulas Luminosity Protecting firming Day Cream SPF 15. Smashbox Photo Finish Pore Minimizing Primer. Lumene Matte Foundation 0 Ivory. Smashbox studio skin 24 hour Waterproof Concealer F2 Fair/ Light. MAC prep + Prime transperant Finishing Powder. Bobbi Brown Bronzing Powder Natural. Urban Decay Chill Makeup Setting Spray. Eyes: Smashbox Photofinish 24 hour Shadow Primer. Maybylline Eye Shadow Pallets The Nudes colour Black. Brow: Makiash Eyebrow Pencil 2 Mocca Brown @makiash. Lips: Inglot Lipliner: 63. Buxom Full on Lip Polish Dolly (Shimmering sultry mauve) Cheek Line: Fantasy make-up Silver

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Skin: Lumene Kuulas Luminosity Protecting firming Day Cream SPF 15. Smashbox Photo Finish Pore Minimizing Primer. Lumene Matte Foundation 0 Ivory. Smashbox studio skin 24 hour Waterproof Concealer F2 Fair/ Light. MAC prep + Prime transperant Finishing Powder. Bobbi Brown Bronzing Powder Natural. Urban Decay Chill Makeup Setting Spray. Eyes: Smashbox Photofinish 24 hour Shadow Primer. Maybylline Eye Shadow Pallets The Nudes colour Black. Brow: Fantasy Make-up colour: Silver. Lips: Inglot Lipliner: 63. Buxom Full on Lip Polish Dolly (Shimmering sultry mauve)

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Feature

Planting The Terrarium Eyes Using real flowers and shrubbery, self-taught makeup artist Ellie Costello transforms her eyes into ethereal fantasy gardens full of colours. Dubbed the “Terrarium Eyes” - her botanical beauty looks spread like wildflowers throughout the internet. Ellie tells us more about her awe-inspiring creations. Tell us a bit about your background and your journey to becoming a self-taught makeup artist I started getting into makeup at the age of 13. I have always loved experimenting with eyeshadow, I remember I used to love buying the big cheap eyeshadow palettes with lots of colours in. I would also use my pocket money to buy a new MAC lipstick which I saw as such a luxurious treat, it actually became a little collection of mine! I remember every time I would go into MAC I would always look at the artists makeup and be mesmerised thinking how incredible it all was. It made me want to learn myself so I started watching YouTube tutorials and would replicate looks step by step. At first I wasn’t much good at all but the more and more I would follow the tutorials I would get better each time. I decided to create an Instagram account at the age of 16/17 to be able to keep track of the looks I had created and as a way to track my progress to see my improvements. I mainly created look on myself, starting out I did more SFX/theatrical character makeup. I also used some friends as models. YouTube was really my teacher in makeup and led me to becoming the self-taught MUA I am today, learning from others is always a great thing. Also I have gained a lot of inspiration from other artists on Instagram, seeing constant creativity on the Instagram feed really helps your own imagination. Your makeup has a characteristic unique style, dubbed as the “‘terrarium eyes”. In your own words, how would you describe your work to someone who hasn’t seen it before? When people ask me what I do on Instagram I usually never know how to describe it and usually say my work is quite unusual and different to a lot of makeup looks you see created on Instagram

nowadays. I would describe it as quite ethereal and fantasy like, combing art and nature to create fresh and unique pieces of art. I would say my work is definitely colourful and fun. Where has your fascination with floral makeup come from? What do you love about you style of makeup? I have always loved flowers and would find myself taking lots of pictures of different flowers when on holiday and visiting new places, also my garden has always had gorgeous flowers bloom during Spring time which I’ve always admired. What I love most about my makeup style is that it reaches out to a much larger audience than people who just love makeup - I would say my eye creations are more of an artistic form rather than an eye makeup look, they reach out to makeup lovers, art lovers, nature lovers and also photography lovers. I also love that every creation can look so different due to the use of flowers, there are so many different flowers in the world every look can be so different even though it is just using eyeshadows and flowers each time Where do you get your makeup inspirations from? I would say I get my makeup inspirations from the flowers themselves. I never plan a look and then go and get the flowers I always get some flowers first then envision the look around the flowers, so I think about the flowers colour, texture, shape etc. Usually by just looking at a flower I immediately have an idea as to how I will turn it into an eye look. Also Instagram gives me so much inspiration, there are so many talented artists out there on Instagram nowadays you are never short of finding amazing pictures to gain inspiration from.

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Where and what type of occasions do you envision people wearing your style of makeup? I definitely would say my makeup style is more of an art form and not for an everyday/going out look. I always created my flower eyes with the intention that they were just miniature pieces of art, not thinking about practicality. Although I think they would be nice for festivals as festivals are all about fun, bright makeup looks or even the runway - I can imagine my terrarium eyes on the catwalk for a really quirky fashion line. What are your favourite flowers to use in makeup? Why? My favourite flowers to use in my makeup are certainly very small blooms as of course working with the eye area you need flowers that will not cover up a large area - I like to go for flowers like forget me nots or gypsophila. I also like ripping flower petals up and making them into small shapes which I can arrange around the eye. Throughout the autumn time and carrying on into Winter I like to incorporate leaves and shrubbery as well as flowers. Where do you source your flowers and materials mostly? I would say my favourite beauty products that go well with my style and compliment the eye looks would certainly be bright eyeshadows as I always go for certain colour shadows that will complement the flowers I have chosen to use - choosing eyeshadows that are in the same colour palette as the flowers creates a really nice look. I would also say clear lipgloss and white face paint - I love adding texture to my looks so creating a glossy lid can really bring an eye look to life. An element of my eye looks is always to have paint splatters across the lid which just adds an even more ethereal feel I think. What are your favourite beauty products that go well with your style? I source my flowers and materials from either my garden or the local woods near my home, in Spring/Summer time this was certainly a lot easier! Now we are in Winter I have to go to my local florist and get my flowers there. Are there any specific steps or techniques in your floral makeups? (especially with handling small flowers and petals) I would say the technique within my eye cre-

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ations is needing a very steady hand and a lot of patience. As you are handling small blooms you have to be very careful as they so delicate and can easily break. I always hold the flowers up against my eye and experiment with placement and arrangement before I stick anything down - I like to see first how things look in certain places before I stick the flower anywhere. I will always create the base of the eye first (with eyeshadows) before using the flowers. Being self-taught, there must have been a lot of trial and error involved. Can you tell us some lessons that you have learnt for yourself? There is certainly a lot of trial and error when it comes to being a self-taught makeup artist! Especially as you have not got someone there to tell you whether you are doing something right or not so you have to just keep practising until you are happy with the outcome. I would say a few things I have learnt though, especially with my style of makeup, there is no right or wrong way - because creativity wise it is so free you can really just experiment and forget about technique. I would also say to be patient and go easy on yourself - sometimes I start creating a look and it does not go how I want it too, but I think it is best to embrace that and adapt the look in a different way! Ok, now a very difficult question. Out of all the looks you have created, which one would be your favourite? Why? My favourite look out of all the ones i have created is definitely the Forget Me Not eye which I created back in April. Forget Me Nots have always been my favourite flowers are they are just do delicate and pretty, so many grow in my garden which I am so lucky for. This eye look also means a lot to me as it was one of the first terrarium eyes I created and it is when my work got a lot more noticed which is very special for me. Your work has been increasingly recognised through the use of social media with a ton of major magazines like Marie Clare, Paper Magazine featuring your work. You now have a huge following on Instagram of near 29k. Do you have any tips on using social media as a platform to share and grow and audience for your work? I would say my biggest tip in growing an audience on Instagram is to try and find your own unique style instead of always copying others. Sometimes it is great to recreate other artists looks as it really can help with your creative thinking but I do think to gain a good following you need to offer some unique and personal to you - you can defi-

nitely tell when looking at peoples feeds whether their work is a real representation of their own individuality and creativity or whether they are just creating looks based on what is deemed as “popular” or just because a lot of people are doing it. We see you have started a Youtube channel. What great things have you got planned for it? I have started a YouTube channel indeed! So far I have not uploaded that regularly but I would love to get into a routine in which I upload 2 videos a week of my terrarium eye tutorials and really start to grow my YouTube audience. I really value YouTube as that is what started my whole makeup journey off for me, so i would love for it to become just as much as a focus as my Instagram. Is there a particular designer you would like to collaborate with that you feel may complement well with your makeup style? I would love to collaborate with Vivienne Westwood - I feel her quirky designs would be great with my work as my eye creations are also very different. She also uses a lot of colour and texture in her designs so feel it would work well together. That would be a dream! I also just generally adore her stuff. If you can do makeup on anyone, who would it be and why. I would love to do makeup on Adele because I think she is so down to earth and has a great personality - I can imagine us having lots of laughs together! So, what’s next for your makeup journey? I am not too sure what is next for my makeup journey … I would love to push myself even further with my makeup looks and experiment more, and give all of you guys a lot more new content. It would be great if some exciting opportunities were to come my way in the New Year… will have to wait and see!

ellcostello9@gmail.com @Ellie Costello @makeupisart_x

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Photography: TIANA KODENKO @tiana_photograph | Model: ANNA AMERS @ annaamers_ | Hair and Makeup: IRINA SIZIKOVA @irina. sizikova

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100 afi


Photography and styling: JOANNA MITROI PHOTOGRAPHY @joanna_mitroi | Model: ANETA KOCISSOVA @aneta. london | Makeup: KITTY NOOFAH @kittynoofah

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Photography / Hair and Makeup: RADA DADALOVA @radadadalova | Model: NATALI BURCHIK @chokespace | Stylist: EKATERINA SHAROVA @sharova.ea | Assistant: ANDREY ISAEV @andyisaev | Location: Special thanks to restaurant Galereya Hudozhnika “The Gallery Of The Artist” in Russia, Moscow | Camera equipments: Canon 5d mark iii, lens 24-70, lights raylab

DAISY 102 afi


Coat and pants: Massimo Dutti Jewellery: Bublik Bazaar

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Dress: H&M Jewellery: Bublik Bazaar

104 afi


Top: Stradivarius, Suit: Trussardi, Vest: R`s handmade, Shoes: Laboratory, Jewellery: Bublik Bazaar

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Top: Kenzo, Pants: Zara, Shoes: R&R1, Vintage Jewellery: Bublik Bazaar

106 afi


Top: Michael Kors, Pants: Trussardi, Hat: stylist’s own, Jewellery: Bublik Bazaar, Boots: Antonio Bilaggi, Jumper with fringe: R`s handmade

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Top: Stradivarius, Dress: Mango, Jewellery: Bublik Bazaar

108 afi


Dress: Zara, Top: Zara, Shoes: Laboratory, Jewellery: Bublik Bazaar

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PERFECT GLOW Photography: DIEGO NOSSA @nossa.camera | Model: ANNA TYSON @ania.tyson | Model agency: EMG MODELS @emg_models | Hair & Makeup: MICHELLE LELIA @makeupbymichellelelia

110 afi


Coda cosmetics, Michael’s silver stars, wet and wild highlighter in champagne

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112 afi


Coda cosmetics, Michael’s flowers stickers, wet and wild highlighter in champagne

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Coda cosmetics, wet and wild highlighter in champagne and sally glitter

114 afi


Lorac eyeshadow palette in unzipped and ultra lip color and dewy makeup

afi 115


Primer Step 1 Skin Equalizer: 8 Radiant Primer – Peach (Makeup Forever) 
 Base: Face & Body N1 (MAC) 
 Correcciones: Match Stix Matte Skinstick – Amber (Fenty Beauty) 
Match Stix Matte Skinstick – Porcelain (Fenty Beauty) 
 Máscara: Better Than Sex (Too Faced) 
 Sombras: Chocolate Bar – Marzipan (Too Faced) 
 Labio: Retro Matte – Runway Hit (MAC) Hair: Pantene PRO-V- Laca-Extra-Fuerte, Schwarzkopf Osis Dust It, Kerastase Nutritive Oleo Relax Serum

116 afi


Photography and retouch: ION JAIRO @ionjairo | Model: ANASTASIA BEREZINSKA @anastasia_berezinska | Model Agency: FRANCINA MODELS @francinamodels | Hair and Makeup: ALVARO SANPER @alvarosanper for THE LAB MAKE-UP STUDIO @thelabmakeupstudio

MYSTIC& GLITTERING

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Primer Step 1 Skin Equalizer: 8 Radiant Primer – Peach (Makeup Forever) 
 Base: Face & Body N1 (MAC) 
 Correcciones: Match Stix Matte Skinstick – Amber (Fenty Beauty) 
Match Stix Matte Skinstick – Porcelain (Fenty Beauty) 
 Máscara: Better Than Sex (Too Faced) 
 Sombras: Chocolate Bar – Triple Fudge & White chocolate (Too Faced) Glitter: Graffic Glitter – 4 Crystal / Glitter N4 White Violet (Makeup Forever) 
 Labio: Retro Matte – Runway Hit (MAC) Glitter Labio: Glitter N7 Red (Makeup Forever)

118 afi


Primer Step 1 Skin Equalizer: 8 Radiant Primer – Peach (Makeup Forever)
 Base: Face & Body N1 (MAC)
 Correcciones: Match Stix Matte Skinstick – Amber (Fenty Beauty) 
Match Stix Matte Skinstick – Porcelain (Fenty Beauty) Máscara: Better Than Sex (Too Faced)
 Sombras: Chocolate Bar – Triple Fudge & White chocolate (Too Faced)
 Glitter: Graffic Glitter – 4 Crystal / Glitter N4 White Violet (Makeup Forever)
 Labio: Artistic Liquid Matter Color 401 Red (Makeup Forever)

afi 119


Primer Step 1 Skin Equalizer: 8 Radiant Primer – Peach (Makeup Forever) 
 Base: Face & Body N1 (MAC) 
 Correcciones: Match Stix Matte Skinstick – Amber (Fenty Beauty) 
Match Stix Matte Skinstick – Porcelain (Fenty Beauty) 
 Máscara: Better Than Sex (Too Faced) 
 Sombras: Chocolate Bar – Triple Fudge & White chocolate (Too Faced) Glitter: Graffic Glitter – 4 Crystal / Glitter N4 White Violet (Makeup Forever) 
 Labio: Retro Matte – Runway Hit (MAC) Glitter Labio: Glitter N7 Red (Makeup Forever)

120 afi


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