Garuda Magazine July 2012

JULY 2012

GARUDA Top Places to eat in

South-East Asia

+ Culinary Tour of Medan, Magical Journey in Jeddah, 8 Reasons to Visit Taipei

www.garuda-indonesia.com

President's Message adVErtiSiNG rEPrESENtatiVE www.garudamagazine.com

Dear Customers,

Pelanggan Garuda Indonesia yang terhormat,

aUStralia Jana Gungor PUBLICITAS AUSTRALIA Tel: +61 2 8298 9306 Fax: +61 2 9252 2022 Email: jana.gungor@publicitas.com

www.garuda-indonesia.com

Editorial Board Along with the development of our fleet, we are also continuing to enhance the capabilities of our aircraft-maintenance centre, PT. Garuda Maintenance Facility AeroAsia, which is better known as GMF AeroAsia.

An important recent development was the designation of GMF AeroAsia as an Authorized Service Facility for Bombardier aircraft, a first in the Asia-Pacific region, and only the sixth such facility in the world.

This designation gives GMF Aero-Asia the right to undertake comprehensive, light-and-heavy maintenance on Bombardier aircraft, in particular the CRJ series.

Through its new role as Authorized Service Facility for Bombardier aircraft in the Asia-Pacific region, the market opportunities for GMF AeroAsia will become even greater.

In line with the rapid growth of the aviation industry in Indonesia, aircraft with a 100-passenger carrying capacity are increasingly in demand, both from national and regional airlines. This means that the market potential for this type of aircraft maintenance will also increase significantly.

In the meantime, to meet increased passenger demand during the school holiday and the upcoming ­­Eid al-Fitr celebration, Garuda Indonesia has increased its seating capacity to over 20,000 seats on certain routes.

We have also formed a special peak-season team that will be in charge of monitoring the smooth operation of flights during this holiday season and that will implement various improvements, as well as corrective measures, in order to meet the expectations of our customers.

Finally, we would like to thank you for your trust and for always choosing to fly with Garuda Indonesia.

2

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Sejalan dengan pengembangan armada yang kami laksanakan, kami juga terus meningkatkan kemampuan pusat perawatan pesawat kami, PT. Garuda Maintenance Facility Aero Asia, yang lebih dikenal dengan GMF AeroAsia.

Salah satu pengembangan penting yang barubaru ini kami laksanakan adalah ditetapkannya GMF Aero-Asia sebagai “Authorized Service Facility” untuk pesawat-pesawat produksi Bombardier—yang pertama di kawasan Asia Pasifik dan keenam di dunia.

Dengan penetapan sebagai “Authorized Service Facility” tersebut, maka GMF Aero-Asia berhak untuk melaksanakan perawatan pesawat-pesawat Bombardier, khususnya tipe CRJ series, hingga tahap “heavy maintenance”.

Dengan peran sebagai “Authorized Service Facility” di kawasan Asia Pasifik tersebut, maka peluang pasar yang dapat digarap oleh GMF Aero-Asia akan semakin besar.

Seperti kita ketahui, sejalan dengan pertumbuhan industri penerbangan di Indonesia yang sangat pesat, pesawat dengan daya angkut 100 penumpang semakin diminati oleh maskapai-maskapai nasional maupun regional. Hal ini berarti potensi pasar perawatan pesawat juga akan meningkat secara signifikan.

Sementara itu, dalam rangka memenuhi peningkatan penumpang yang terjadi pada musim liburan sekolah dan menjelang Idul Fitri 1433H, Garuda Indonesia melakukan penambahan kapasitas tempat duduk hingga lebih dari 20.000 ke kota-kota tujuan tertentu.

Kami juga membentuk tim khusus “peak season” yang bertugas memonitor pelaksanaan penerbangan selama periode peak season ini, dan melakukan upaya dan langkah-langkah perbaikan sesuai harapan para pelanggan.

Akhirnya kami mengucapkan terimakasih atas kepercayaan Bapak-Ibu untuk senantiasa terbang bersama Garuda Indonesia.

President & CEO Emirsyah Satar PT. Garuda Indonesia (Persero) Tbk.

Pujobroto Helmy Kurniawan Cristian Rahadiansyah

director of Business development

Rudi Hendian

Editor-in-Chief Managing Editor Editor

Cristian Rahadiansyah Arvada Gregorius Haradiran Sari Widiati Andra Wisnu Group Copy Editor Simon Pitchforth (TA) E-mail: garudamagazine@indomultimedia.co.id art director

Canny Ciomas Sutanto

designers

Arief Aji Prasetya Heritanta Ilham Nugroho

Head of Production

Agus Muslim

Production

Muhidin Nuridin Fahri Sugeng Susanto

Photographer

Kiki Djaffar

traffic

Ratna Aryani

distribution

Pandu Guritno Siti Turyati

advertising Jakarta Harry Sutanto, Melanie Wahyu, DP Saraswati, LD Michael, Sri Neni Supriyanti Tel: (62-21) 7918 7008, Fax: (62-21) 7918 7009 E-mail: sales@indomultimedia.co.id Bali Ayu Oka Trisnawati Tel: (62-361) 919 0756, 919 0765, Fax: (62-361) 756 354 E-mail: bali@indomultimedia.co.id

GARUDA magazine is published under licence for Garuda Indonesia by PT Indo Multi Media.

Opinions expressed in this magazine are those of the authors. The publishers and printers accept no responsibility for the contents thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior permission of the publishers. Editorial enquiries or submissions should be addressed to The Editor, GARUDA Magazine, Globe Building 3rd Floor, Jl. Buncit Raya Kav 31-33, Jakarta 12740, by fax: 62-(0)21-7918 7009, e-mail: garuda@garudamagazine.com. While every care will be taken, the publishers accept no responsibility for loss or damage to manuscripts, photographs, artworks or other unsolicited editorial material.

Printed by Gramedia

FraNCE Julia Schilling IMM-INTERNATIONAL FRANCE Tel: +33 1 4013 7903 Email: j.schilling@imm-france.com HoNG KoNG Mariam Wang PUBLICITAS HONGKONG LTD Tel: +852 2516 1004 Fax: +852 2528 3260 Email: mariam.wang@publicitas.com iNdia Sailesh Jain JAIN INTERNATIONAL Tel: +91 44 4204 1122/23/24 Fax: +91 44 2536 2973 Email: jain@jaingroup.net JaPaN Shigenori Nagatomo PACIFIC BUSINESS INC Tel: +81 3 3661 6138 Fax: +81 3 3661 6139 Email: nagatomo-pbi@gol.com MalaYSia Shallie Cheng Mind Sense SDN BHD Tel : +603 7781 7700 Fax : +603 7781 7880 email address : shalliecheng@gmail.com SiNGaPorE Peggy Thay PUBLICITAS SINGAPORE PTE LTD Tel: +65 6836 2272 Fax: +65 6634 5231 Email: peggy.thay@publicitas.com tHE NEtHErlaNdS Giovanni Angiolini GIO MEDIA BENELUX Tel: +31 6 2223 8420 Fax: +31 6 5049 9005 Email: giovanni@gio-media.ni UNitEd araB EMiratES Cathy Choresca BSA CONSULTANTS Tel: +971 4 228 7708 Fax: +971 4 221 2350 Email: cathy@bsacmena.com

04.12 Garuda Magazine 07.12

3

contents

contents 28

110

TRAVEL noTES 28 news From a new hotel in Palangka raya to rimowa’s new, super-light trolley 42 Fave 5 chef rinrin Marinka’s favourite destinations 44 tour ideas cycling in tokyo 46 Bali the seaweed farmers of Nusa lembongan 50 toP taBles eating out in Beijing 52 MotorinG Fuel-saving solutions 54 Movie “rumah di seribu ombak” 56 ProduCts Backpacks with attitude 58 insPire a bizarre biscuit from south-east Maluku

Medan Meals en/ It seems that eating out is the hobby of choice for the people of Medan. Wherever you roam in the capital of North Sumatra, you’ll find an endless array of lip-smacking culinary hotspots to choose from: from street hawkers in the city’s chinatown area to an open-air food court that sells Indian food.

34

72

The Powerhouse of Culinary Ideas en/ after more than a decade of an incredible journey, Mozaic owner chris salans launches his latest venture: a beach-club. in/ setelah satu setengah dekade mengembangkan Mozaic, chris salans kini mendirikan beach-club.

96 insiGHt voGue

Beach & Breeze enjoying Karma Kandara in the perfect beach outfits Menikmati pantai Karma Kandara dalam busana pantai

90

78 art & Culture

Lines of Meaning

122 Travel

Gate to the holy land

en/ You are what you eat, so make sure that you know how to get your hands on the best food. In this issue, we asked five of Indonesia’s most renowned foodies to share their favourite South-East Asian dining options with us. in/ Apa yang kita santap menentukan siapa kita, karena itulah pengetahuan tentang makanan yang baik sangat penting. Di edisi ini, kami meminta lima pakar kuliner nasional memilih tempat makan favorit mereka di Asia Tenggara.

in/ Tur off-road di gurun, kawasan konservasi hewan, patung buatan seniman terkenal, serta museum berisi artefak kerajaan. Belum banyak pilihan bagi turis memang, tapi Jeddah sepertinya kian serius membangun pariwisatanya.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

70

72 Personality

en/ Off-road desert tours, animal conservation, a museum filled with ancient artifacts and statues created by renowned artists. Not a huge selection of attractions perhaps but Jeddah is getting increasingly serious about developing its burgeoning tourism sector.

2 8

90

InSIGhT

cover: courtesy of restaurant Andre, Singapore.

15 top places to eat in south-east asia

96

72

in/ Makan di luar rumah bagaikan hobi nasional warga Medan. Saat mengelilingi Ibukota Sumatera Utara ini, Anda bisa menemukan aneka gerai penggoda selera, mulai dari pedagang pinggir jalan di Pecinan hingga food court berkonsep terbuka yang menjajakan kuliner India.

102 FeaTure

78

en/ a factory in yogyakarta is fighting to preserve the handmade lurik, in spite of the fact that five of its competitors have now closed. in/ sebuah pabrik di yogyakarta berjuang mempertahankan tradisi lurik handmade, meski lima pabrik lainnya telah gulung tikar.

66

90 itinerary

8 Reasons to Visit Taipei en/ taking in taipei’s panoramas from the deck of taipei 101, you’ll realise that the city offers so much more than just modern gadgets. in/ Menatap panorama taipei dari dek taipei 101, anda akan tersadar bahwa kota ini menawarkan lebih dari sekadar gajet canggih.

10

Garuda Magazine 07.12

REGULARS 18 Postcard 22 INsIde garuda 66 Photo gallery 134 cIty guIde 142 eveNts 187 JaPaNese sectIoN

Garuda Magazine 07.12

3

Travel Notes News / Art / Fave5 / Tour Ideas / Bali / Top Tables / Motoring / Movies + Books / Products / Inspire

Rest & Relaxation en/ Angsana Laguna Phuket has joined forces with Singaporebased nightlife operator Attica to launch XANA, a new all-day beach-club concept located on the tropical island of Phuket in Thailand. Featuring contemporary aesthetics and expansive views of Bang Tao Bay, XANA offers a seamless day-into-night beach-club experience, beginning at 11 am with lunch and segueing into dinner and late-night cocktails. in/ Bekerja sama dengan operator hiburan malam Singapura, Attica, Angsana Laguna Phuket meluncurkan konsep beachclub terbarunya, XANA, di pulau tropis Phuket, Thailand.

Tempat yang beroperasi dari jam makan siang hingga larut malam ini menawarkan desain kontemporer dan pemandangan segar Bang Tao Bay. www.angsana.com.

28

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Garuda Magazine 07.12

29

Travel NOTES News

Magnificent Mecca en/ As we approach the holy month of Ramadan, Mecca welcomes the opening of Swissôtel Makkah. This five-star property features 1,487 rooms and suites, including 22 disabled-friendly rooms. The new hotel has strong appeal in terms of its location, as it sits just a few minutes walk from the Grand Mosque. in/ Menyambut Ramadan, Makah melansir Swissôtel Makka, hotel bintang lima berisi 1.487 kamar dan suite, termasuk 22 kamar untuk diffable.

Daya tarik lain hotel ini adalah lokasinya: hanya beberapa menit berjalan kaki dari Masjidil Haram. www.swissotel.com.

Lightweight Heavyweights

in/ Walaupun bentuknya mungil dan ringan, headphone Klipsch Image S4 mampu menghasilkan kualitas suara yang jernih dan brilian, tak kalah dari kompetitor premium lainnya yang berharga dua hingga tiga kali lipat. Produk ini adalah manifestasi sempurna dari ungkapan “kecil-kecil cabai rawit”. www.klipsch.com.

Grand Overland en/ Reserve your spot now and embark on a life-changing, 11-night cruise trip onboard the Orient-Express Road To Mandalay. The trip will transport you for a total of 682 nautical miles along the Ayeyarwady River, departing from the storied city of Mandalay and heading up to Bhamo, near the Chinese border before finishing up at the spellbinding plain of temples at Bagan.

Cruises depart on August 1, 15 and 29, and also September 12, and are priced from GBP 2,380 per person.

in/ Lakukan reservasi segera agar tidak ketinggalan ekspedisi kapal pesiar Road To Mandalay mengarungi Sungai Ayeyarwady selama 11 malam. Kapal akan berangkat dari kota Mandalay, melewati Bhamo di dekat Cina, hingga akhirnya berlabuh di dekat taburan kuil di Bagan. Kapal yang dioperasikan Orient-Express ini dijadwalkan untuk berangkat pada 1, 15, 29 Agustus, serta 12 September. Tarif mulai dari GBP 2.380 per orang. www.roadtomandalay.net.

Photograph: Courtesy of Swissôtel, Klipsch, Orient-Express.

en/ For half (or even one-third) the price of many other premium earphones, the allnew Klipsch Image S4 headphones deliver surprisingly brilliant, crystal-clear sound quality that matches or even bests many other models. In short, these lightweight earphones are heavyweight contenders.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

31

Travel NOTES News

Swiss Secrets en/ The Joux Valley region has played a major role in establishing Switzerland’s status as one of the world’s leading watch manufacturers, and the Joux Valley Museum of Watchmaking is a fantastic place to learn about that history. The museum was reopened in May after a renovation project. in/ Kawasan Joux Valley berperan besar dalam melambungkan pamor Swiss sebagai produsen jam tangan ternama, dan tempat terbaik untuk mempelajari sejarah itu adalah Joux Valley Museum of Watchmaking. Akhir Mei silam, museum ini dibuka kembali usai direnovasi. www.espacehorloger.ch.

Aggressive Amaris

Tablet Tech en/ Love the super portability of tablet computers but despise their limited work functionality? Well the Acer Aspire S Series Ultrabook might just be the device you’re looking for. This super-thin notebook packs everything that you’d expect from a standardsize notebook, including the latest generation of Intel Core processor and a 500GB hard drive. in/ Komputer tablet memang portabel, tapi fungsionalitasnya kadang sangat terbatas. Solusi untuk masalah ini adalah Acer Aspire S-series Ultrabook. Meski super tipis, notebook menakjubkan ini tidak minim fitur. Ia dilengkapi prosesor mutakhir Intel Core serta hard drive 500GB. www.amazinglyslim.com.

32

Garuda Magazine 07.12

in/ Berkaca dari kesuksesan Amaris Panglima Polim 1, Santika Indonesia Hotels & Resorts melansir Amaris Hotel Panglima Polim 2.

Kedua hotel bujet dari keluarga Amaris Hotel ini terletak strategis di dekat pusat perbelanjaan Blok M, Jakarta. www.amarishotel.com.

Photograph: Courtesy of Acer, Santika, Joux Valley Museum of Watchmaking.

en/ In May, Santika Indonesia Hotels & Resorts opened its second Amaris Hotel, the Amaris Hotel Panglima Polim 2. The new property comes in the wake of the success of the Amaris Panglima Polim 1, and the two Amaris hotels are conveniently located close to Jakarta’s everpopular Blok M shopping district.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

33

Travel NOTES News

Super Summer Take advantage of Hong Kong’s The Fleming and its Super Summer package, which guests can enjoy for a nightly rate of HKD 1,280 for a Superior Room and HKD 1,680 for an Executive Room. All of these packages include a free evening wine service and late check-outs till 3 pm.

Jangan lewatkan paket “Super Summer” dari Hotel The Fleming di Hong Kong. Cukup membayar mulai dari HKD 1,280 untuk Superior Room atau HKD 1,680 untuk Executive Room, tamu bisa menikmati evening wine gratis dan late check-out hingga pukul 15. www.thefleming.com.hk.

en/ This new range of hand luggage from luxury brand Hermes should make your travelling experiences much easier and classier. These easy-storage travel partners come complete with numerous practical features, such as telescoping valet handles and quiet wheels, and are made of sturdy Tech H canvas, which is reinforced with brushed and anodised aluminium hardware.

Location Matters en/ Palangka Raya welcomed a new 4-star hotel last May. Located just 20 minutes from the city’s airport, Swiss-Belhotel Danum Palangka Raya offers easy access to entertainment venues, tourist attractions and a wide range of leisure facilities. Designed with a resort atmosphere in mind, this business hotel offers 150 guestrooms.

in/ Hermes melansir koper yang membuat perjalanan Anda lebih mudah dan penuh gaya. Tas ini didesain ringan dan dilengkapi fitur-fitur yang sangat fungsional, seperti tuas yang bisa diperpendek maksimum, roda yang halus, serta bahan material yang kokoh hasil kombinasi kain kanvas Tech H dan aluminium.

in/ Palangka Raya menyambut hotel bintang empat terbarunya pada Mei lalu: SwissBelhotel Danum Palangka Raya, hotel bisnis berkapasitas 150 kamar yang berjarak hanya 20 menit dari bandara dan menawarkan akses yang mudah ke sejumlah pusat hiburan, obyek wisata, dan fasilitas pelesir.

www.hermes.com.

www.swiss-belhotel.com.

Photograph: Courtesy of Hermes, The Fleming, Swiss-Belhotel.

Calèche Express

Exciting Shopping en/ Shopaholics please take note: Using the Tourist Privilege Card, you can now enjoy further discounts when shopping at participating malls within the Bukit Bintang KLCC (BBKLCC) shopping district in Malaysia. The card was launched on June 14 at the 1Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival and can be procured through a simple and quick application process at participating malls.

34

Garuda Magazine 07.12

in/ Pengumuman penting bagi pecandu belanja: menggunakan Tourist Privilege Card, Anda bisa menikmati diskon lebih besar saat berbelanja di mal-mal di kawasan distrik belanja Bukit Bintang KLCC (BBKLCC) di Malaysia. Kartu spesial ini diluncurkan pada 14 Juni dalam 1Malaysia Mega Sale Carnival, dan bisa didapatkan melalui proses aplikasi yang simpel di sejumlah mal.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

35

Travel NOTES News

Petitenget’s New Flavours en/ A new bistro has just opened down in one of Bali’s most fashionable precincts. Petitenget Bistro is Sean Cosgrove’s newest venture and fuses 1930s, old-world, Amalfi Coast romance with chic charm. The new eatery is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. in/ Sebuah bistro berkonsep segar baru saja diluncurkan di distrik modis Petitenget dengan nama Petitenget Bistro. Properti garapan Sean Cosgrove ini melayani sarapan serta makan siang dan malam.

Light & colourful en/ The name says it all here as with a total weight of only 1.9kg, the Salsa Air Ultralight is the lightest multi-wheeled cabin trolley ever produced by Rimowa. This trolley can be purchased at Plaza Indonesia in Jakarta and at Beachwalk Bali, and is available in a rainbow selection of ultraviolet, Inca gold, aquamarine, navy blue and cognac. in/ Namanya mencerminkan karakternya. Dengan bobot hanya 1,9 kilogram, Salsa Air Ultralight adalah cabin trolley multiroda paling ringan yang pernah diproduksi Rimowa. Trolley ini tersedia di Plaza Indonesia, Jakarta dan Beachwalk Bali, serta hadir dalam warna ultra violet, Inca gold, aquamarine, navy blue, dan cognac. www.metroxgroup.com.

Photograph: Courtesy of Petitenget Bistro, Metrox, Hayman Escape.

Jl. Petitenget #40, Bali.

Escape to Hayman en/ Escape the heat of the summer and head down to the Best Australian Resort 2012, as featured on the prestigious Luxury Travel & Style Magazine Gold List. Hayman Escape packages are priced from AUD 932 per person and include four nights’ accommodation and daily beachfront breakfasts. in/ Dengan status Best Australian Resort 2012 versi Luxury Travel & Style Magazine Gold List, Hayman Escape adalah salah satu tempat terbaik di Negeri Kanguru untuk melarikan diri hiruk-pikuk kota.

Properti ini sedang menawarkan paket liburan bertarif AUD 932 per orang, mencakup kamar selama empat malam dan sarapan. www.hayman.com.au.

36

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Garuda Magazine 07.12

37

Travel NOTES Products

The pack

is back

JanSport: the Skip Yowell Collection en/ This wonderfully handsome heritage backpack was personally designed by Skip Yowell, co-founder of JanSport, and harkens back to the days when mountain climbing was truly a romantic affair.

The North Face Surge en/ Legendary The North Face quality and durability meet style in this full-feature daypack that includes a dedicated laptop pocket (for laptops of up to 15”). This one should keep you going strong whether you’re hard at work or hardly working.

A decent backpack should not only be durable but also spacious and light. The following products have what it takes to tackle tough outdoor environments.

Tas punggung tak cuma harus kuat, tapi juga lapang dan memiliki daya tahan lama. Berikut empat yang layak dipilih.

Oakley Kitchen Sink Backpack en/ The name is a nod to this pack’s cavernous capacity.

Oakley’s legendary focus on utility has also seen to it that this one features endless pockets for your hiking convenience.

Osprey Exos 34 en/ This pack is a fantastic buy for the hardy hikers among you. Weighing in at a measly 960g when empty, this pack can expand to a size large enough for week-long trips.

in/ Tas punggung bersejarah nan gagah ini didesain langsung oleh Skip Yowell, salah seorang pendiri JanSport, untuk mengingatkan kita pada pengalaman indah di masa kecil saat mendaki gunung bersama orangtua.

in/ Tas ini mengutamakan kualitas dan daya tahan.

Tersedia pula sebuah kantong untuk memuat laptop berukuran 15 inci bagi Anda yang terpaksa membawa pekerjaan sembari trekking.

in/ Nama janggal tas ini merepresentasikan kapasitas interiornya: sangat besar hingga sanggup memuat kitchen sink. Sementara kantong-kantong di lapisan luar tas berguna untuk menampung banyak pernak-pernik.

in/ Dengan bobot kosong hanya 960 gram, tas punggung super ringan ini memanfaatkan dengan sempurna segala sudutnya guna menampung barang-barang. Anda bisa menggunakannya untuk ekspedisi trekking atau hiking selama seminggu.

www.jansport.com.

www.thenorthface.com.

www.oakley.com.

www.ospreypacks.com.

56

Garuda Magazine 07.12

15 FEATURE

Top Places to Eat in South-East Asia

In a quest to guide your tongue in its explorations of South-East Asia, we asked five renowned Indonesian foodies to select their favourite places to eat in the region.

Bondan Winarno Host of the Asian Food Channel’s “Taste of Indonesia”

102

Laksmi Pamuntjak Author of the “Jakarta Good Food Guide” series

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Dalam rangka memandu lidah Anda menjelajah Asia Tenggara, kami meminta lima pakar kuliner memilih tempat makan favorit mereka di kawasan ini.

Yohan Handoyo Connoisseur & author of “Rahasia Wine” (“The Secret of Wine”)

Petty Elliott Food writer & author of “Papaya Flower”

William Wongso Restaurateur & culinary advisor

Garuda Magazine 07.12

103

BONDAN WINARNO

LAKSMI PAMUNTJAK Restaurant Andre

Eat Me Restaurant

Decanter

en/ You can tell by its name that Eat Me is somewhat enthusiastic about tickling your taste buds with its dining delights.

You would do well to sit back and allow it to do just that. “Some of its dishes have a certain flair to them, while others, more European in nature, display a deceptive simplicity,” says Laksmi. in/ Nama restoran ini memberi pesan bahwa pemiliknya ingin menggoda selera Anda. “Beberapa hidangannya mencerminkan pesona yang distingtif. Sisanya yang bergaya Eropa, menampilkan kerumitan dalam kesederhanaan,” kata Laksmi.

Photograph: Courtesy of Ember, Eat Me Restaurant.

Eat Me Restaurant

Restaurant Andre

Decanter Wine House en/ Offering a relaxed ambiance, this palace of connoisseurs has a homey vibe that contrasts sweetly with its staggering array of wines. Helmed by Chef Johannes Pratiwanggana who has 18-years of experience working with the Hiltons worldwide, Decanter has what it takes to appease both family-style diners and the staunchest of food critics.

Restaurant Andre en/ “I always long to revisit this restaurant,” says Bondan. “But, do heed this warning: Reserve at least two weeks prior to your visit, as the restaurant only has a 30-seat capacity.” Many praise Chef Andre Chiang’s adventurous yet controlled

104

Garuda Magazine 07.12

experiments on the Mediterranean fusion cuisine on offer here. in/ “Saya selalu ingin mengunjungi lagi restoran ini,” ujar Bondan. “Tapi satu yang harus diperhatikan, reservasi harus dilakukan dua minggu sebelum kedatangan. Restoran ini hanya memiliki 30 kursi.” Kemahiran Koki Andre Chiang dalam bereksperimen dengan masakan fusi Mediterania adalah alasan tempat ini sukses memikat banyak penggemar.

Cha Ca La Vong en/ Cha Ca La Vong is the name of the restaurant but it is also the name of the only dish served here. Made of cha ca

in/ Cha Ca La Vong adalah nama properti, sekaligus nama hidangan satu-satunya di tempat ini. Menu andalan ini dibuat dari cha ca (ikan lele) yang direndam dalam kunyit, dimasak di atas bara langsung di hadapan tamu, lalu ditaburi banyak daun dill. “Sangat sederhana sekaligus sangat mengesankan,” kata Bondan.

Decanter Wine House Kuningan Plaza, North Tower, GF, Jl. HR Rasuna Said Kav. C-11-14, Jakarta, Indonesia, T. 62 21 529 638 88, www.decanterjakarta.com.

Restaurant Andre 41 Bukit Pasoh Road (next to The Majestic Hotel), Singapore, T. 65 653 488 80, restaurantandre.com.

Cha Ca La Vong 3 Ho Xuan Huong Street, Ward 6, District 3, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, T. 84 8 830 5674.

Photograph: Courtesy of Decanter, Restaurant Andre.

in/ Tempat ini memancarkan atmosfer yang santai dan kasual. Tapi untuk urusan wine, pengelolanya sangat serius. Decanter menampilkan koleksi wine internasional yang impresif.

Dapurnya dikomandani oleh Johannes Pratiwanggana, koki dengan pengalaman kerja 18 tahun di jaringan Hilton.

(catfish) marinated in turmeric, cooked on a table-top coal burner right on your table and sprinkled with plenty of dill, this is one tasty treat. “So simple, yet so impressive,” says Bondan.

Ember

Tatemukai en/ Serving food omakase-style, which literally means, “It’s up to you”, Tatemukai is more than a meal, it is a dining experience. Guests choose the ingredients they want and then allow the chef to work his magic. Don’t expect a menu here. The whole experience doesn’t come cheap though, costing up to around IDR 1.5 million a head. It’s also reservations only down here. in/ Dengan konsep penyajian bergaya omakase (artinya “terserah Anda”), Tatemukai ingin menyuguhkan pengalaman bersantap yang sejati—lebih dari sekadar mengisi perut tamu. Jangan berharap buku menu, sebab tiap pengunjung dibebaskan memilih bahan, lalu membiarkan sang koki berkreasi dengannya. Semua tawaran ini dibanderol cukup mahal, yakn Rp 1.500.000 per orang. Juga harus diingat, tamu wajib melakukan reservasi sebelum datang.

Ember en/ Since he opened his restaurant back in 2002, Chef

Sebastian Ng has never disappointed, and his take on contemporary European cuisine with an Asian twist has captivated foodies. While it has been around for almost a decade now, Ember continues to serve up reliable flavours with that slight oomph of surprise that will make you perk up and take notice. “Sebastian Ng’s uberreliable contemporary European fare is something that you simply can’t tire of,” says Laksmi. in/ Sejak membuka restoran ini di 2002, Koki Sebastian Ng tidak pernah mengecewakan. Kreativitasnya dalam memberi sentuhan Asia pada tradisi kuliner Eropa kontemporer sukses memikat pencinta makanan. Setelah hampir satu dekade, koki ulet ini juga masih terus memberi kejutan-kejutan. “Anda tidak akan pernah bosan pada menu Eropa kontemporer buatan Sebastian Ng,” jelas Laksmi.

Eat Me 1/6 Soi Pipat 2 (off Convent Road), Silom, Bangkok, Thailand, T. 66 2 238 0931, www.eatmerestaurant.com.

Tatemukai Level 3A, Grand Indonesia Shopping Town, Jl. MH Thamrin no. 1, Jakarta, Indonesia, T. 62 21 2358 1807, www.grand-indonesia.com.

Eat Me Restaurant

Ember Hotel 1929, 50 KeongSaik Road, Singapore, T. 65 6347 1929, www.hotel1929.com..

Garuda Magazine 07.12

105

WILLIAM WONGSO

YOHAN HANDOYO Bahn Xeo 46A

Khadijah's Kitchen

Mama San

in/ Khadijah’s Kitchen adalah tempat ideal bagi mereka yang menyukai kuliner Melayu autentik. Tempat yang sederhana dan nyaman ini dimiliki oleh salah seorang penyanyi terkenal Malaysia. Resep-resep di sini merupakan sumbangan dari nenek, ibu, bibi, teman, dan penggemar sang diva.

Khadijah’s Kitchen kini sedang direnovasi setelah dibuka empat tahun silam, tapi Anda bisa mencoba kafe barunya.

Banh Xeo 46A en/ A Bahn Xeo is a type of crepe. And being that this joint is in Vietnam, it is perhaps not surprising to learn that the Vietnamese have developed their own version of the classic crepe here, by utilising savoury ingredients such as pork

106

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Mama Makassar

and shrimp, and a splash of nuoc mam fish sauce. The results are to die for, as William attests. “There are many places that sell this snack but Bahn Xeo 46A is the most popular,” he enthuses. in/ Bahn Xeo adalah sejenis crepe, tapi dengan sentuhan Vietnam. Bahan yang dipakai adalah daging babi atau udang, ditambah saus ikan lokal legendaris, Nuoc Nam. Bukan crepe yang lazim Anda lihat memang, tapi pastinya sangat layak dicicipi. “Ada banyak tempat yang menjual makanan ini, tapi Bahn Xeo 46A adalah yang paling populer,” jelas William.

Mama Makassar en/ This restaurant offers the ultimate ingredient that all budding chefs should have a little of: Love. Mimi Tanyadji started her business in the hope of giving her four children the best meal they could have.

Fifteen years later, she opened her heart, and her kitchen, to the world. While you’ll find some Manadonese classics here, it is Mimi’s sweets that are the main star of this café-like restaurant. Hard-to-find traditional Makassar snacks such as ka’do bo’dong, toloba, katrisala and seruni are a big hit with her customers. in/ Restoran ini menawarkan bahan utama yang wajib dimiliki semua koki: cinta. Mimi Tanyadji merintisnya dengan harapan dapat memberikan makanan yang lebih baik bagi keempat anaknya. Lima belas tahun kemudian, dia membuka hatinya, lalu dapurnya, untuk semua orang. Mama Makassar menjajakan beberapa kuliner klasik Manado, namun bintang utamanya adalah aneka camilan Makassar yang sebagian makin langka. Sebut saja ka’do bo’dong, toloba, katrisala, dan seruni.

Khadijah's kitchen 21, Jalan Bu 11/2, Petaling Jaya, Malaysia, T. 603 796 010 79.

Banh Xeo 46A Quan 46A Dinh Cong, Trang-Q1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, T. 84 8 824 1110.

Mama makassar Jl. Serui no. 15, Makassar, South Sulawesi, Indonesia, T. 62 411 361 7453.

Mama San

Amuz en/ Amuz is the only restaurant in Jakarta to boast a chef, Gilles Marx, who has worked in 3-star Michelin restaurants.

“I have many reasons to be giddy about this restaurant,” says Yohan. “Firstly, they always use ingredients that have come fresh from the market. Secondly, the service here is impeccable and the wine list is great. Finally, Amuz has a great degustation menu.”

Photograph: Courtesy of Amuz, Mama San.

en/ Khadijah’s Kitchen is the place to go if authentic Malay food is what you crave. The restaurant is homey and is owned by one of most revered female singers in Malaysia. The food down here is a legacy from her grandmother, mother, aunts, friends and fans. Recently renovated after first opening four years ago, Khadijah’s new street-café concept is worth checking out.

Photograph: Courtesy of William Wongso

Khadijah’s Kitchen

in/ Restoran ini adalah satu-satunya di Jakarta di mana kokinya, Gilles Marx, pernah bekerja di restoran dengan tiga bintang Michelin. Yohan punya banyak alasan untuk mengidolakannya: “Pertama, mereka selalu memakai bahan-bahan segar. Kedua, servisnya tanpa cacat dan daftar wine-nya impresif. Terakhir, menu degustation-nya selalu berubah.”

Mama San en/ The latest culinary effort to have emerged from the mind of Will Meyrick

in/ Mahakarya terbaru dari koki Will Meyrick ini berhasil menjawab semua ekspektasi dan keraguan. Mama San adalah wadah bagi Will dalam menginterpretasi tradisi kuliner Asia, termasuk Indonesia, untuk kemudian melahirkan kreasi-kreasi yang unik dan autentik, namun pada saat bersamaan segar dan mengejutkan.

Nicolas Le Restaurant has, perhaps not unsurprisingly, blown all expectations out of the water. But what is surprising is just how well he has been able to take some of the most well-known Asian foods in the world and twist them into culinary creations that are at once familiar, while at the same time surprising.

Amuz

en/ Yohan picks Nicolas as his third choice because of its, “amazing wine list at prices that won’t put a hole in your wallet, particularly the champagne and burgundy, and rare items like Chateau Musar.” Nicolas is temporarily closed alas, but should be open again this July. in/ Berikut alasan Yohan memilih Nicolas sebagai restoran favoritnya: “Daftar wine yang luar biasa, tapi tidak membuat kantong bolong, terutama untuk sampanye, burgundy, serta produk langka semacam Chateau Musar.” Nicolas sempat ditutup dan dijadwalkan beroperasi kembali mulai bulan ini.

Amuz Energy Building, 2nd Floor, SCBD, Jl. Jend.

Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta, Indonesia, T. 62 21 250 5064, amuzgourmet.com.

Mama San Jl. Raya Kerobokan No. 135, Bali, Indonesia, T. 62 361 730 436, www.mamasanbali.com.

Nicolas Le Restaurant Singapore, www.restaurantnicolas.com.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

107

PETTY ELLIOTT

Jaan

Jaan

in/ Restoran ini bertengger di lantai 70 Swissôtel The Stamford Singapore, sekitar 225 meter dari tanah. Posisi tinggi itu sedikit banyak melambangkan status luhurnya dalam hal makanan. Bertugas di dapurnya adalah Julien Royer, peraih Rising Chef of the Year 2012 dari World Gourmet Summit’s Awards of Excellence. “Yang saya suka, Royer tidak memilih konsep gastronomi molekuler, melainkan fine dining yang terinspirasi gerakan artisanal cuisine, jadi menunya lebih mudah dicerna," kata Petty.

108

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Romdeng

en/ Romdeng got its humble start as an idea from the NGO Mith Samlanh.

The plan was to help Cambodia’s street kids get off the street and to teach them some real professional skills. Little did they expect though that their humble little restaurant idea would grow to become one of Cambodia’s most recognised tourist attractions! Romdeng serves up a superb variety of Cambodian food, ranging from almost forgotten recipes to contemporary creative Cambodian cuisine. in/ Restoran ini berawal dari ide mulia LSM Mith Samlanh Iggy's untuk membantu anak-anak jalanan Kamboja dengan memberi mereka keahlian teknis yang kelak berguna. Tanpa disadari, Romdeng justru menjelma jadi salah satu obyek wisata. Restoran ini menyuguhkan berbagai makanan lokal autentik, mulai dari yang bergaya kontemporer kreatif hingga yang nyaris dilupakan dan berasal dari provinsi-provinsi terpencil.

Iggy’s en/ Despite having been around since 2004, this restaurant shows not the slightest sign of slowing down. Proof of this can be seen in its latest accomplishments. Iggy’s is The Miele Guide Asia’s Number One Restaurant 2011/2012 and is ranked 26 on The San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2012. Part of Iggy’s enduring success is undoubtedly due to founder Ignatius Chan, or Iggy as he is called, who bases his cuisine on his extensive travels and on his dining experiences in Europe. in/ Meski telah beroperasi sejak 2004, Iggy’s masih konsisten dalam memuaskan para tamunya. Buktinya bisa dilihat dari tercantumnya restoran ini dalam panduan prestisius Miele Guide Asia 2011/2012, serta keberhasilannya menyabet posisi 26 dalam daftar The San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Kesuksesan ajek itu tentu tidak terlepas dari kegigihan sang pendiri, Ignatius Chan. Pria yang lazim disapa Iggy ini meracik menunya berdasarkan eksplorasinya di Eropa.

Jaan 70th Floor, Equinox Complex, Swissotel The Stamford, 2 Stamford Road, Singapore, T. 65 633 885 85, www.swissotel.com.

Romdeng 74 Street 174, Phnom Penh, Cambodia, T. 855 92 219 565, www.mithsamlanh.org.

Iggy's The Hilton, Level 3, 581 Orchard Road, Singapore, T. 65 673 222 34, www.iggys.com.sg.

Photograph: Courtesy of Swissôtel, Iggy’s, Mith Samlanh.

en/ Sitting a full 741 feet above the ground on Level 70 of the Swissôtel The Stamford Singapore, the elegant and intimate French restaurant Jaan not only impresses aesthetically but also serves up some real gems. And would you expect anything less from a chef such as Julien Royer, winner in the 2012 Rising Chef of the Year category at the World Gourmet Summit Awards of Excellence? “I like how Chef Royer has bypassed Romdeng the whole moleculargastronomy thing in favour of a fine-dining experience inspired by the artisanal cuisine movement.

This makes the dishes here easy to understand,” explains Petty.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

109

Travel Medan

medan

meals

The city of Medan is an unparalleled food heaven with an endless array of lipsmacking culinary hotspots to choose from.

Arvada Haradiran maps out Medan’s dining treasures. Photograph by Kiki Djaffar.

110

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Menawarkan serentetan tempat makan penggoda selera yang tak ada habisnya, Medan adalah destinasi kuliner sejati di Indonesia. Arvada Haradiran memetakan dapur-dapur terbaiknya. Foto oleh Kiki Djaffar.

The famous Mie Aceh Titi Bobrok in the making | Proses memasak mi di Mi Aceh Titi Bobrok.

OPPOSITE PAGE: The iconic Soto Medan | Soto Medan yang ikonik.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

111

Malaysia Medan

Singapore

Sumatra

Kalimantan

THE MEDANESE ARE SIMPLY CRAZY

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Medanese rice cake | Lontong Medan; Signature dish at Martabak Piring Murni | Menu andalan Martabak Piring; Medanese durians await at Ucok Durian | Timbunan durian Medan di Ucok Durian; One of the vendors in Jalan Semarang | Pedagang kaki lima di Jalan Semarang.

112

Garuda Magazine 07.12

about their food. That’s a fact confirmed by the Indonesian Bureau of Logistics, which states that North Sumatra’s rice-consumption rate is the highest in the country. Evidence of this infatuation becomes clear as soon as you land at Medan’s passable Polonia International Airport. Almost immediately, you begin to notice people walking around with parcels of food, cakes and snacks, which will either be bought as souvenirs for those back home, or given as gifts to visiting guests.

There are no sightings of souvenir samurai swords or boxes emblazoned with a certain popular Balinese gift shop’s logo.

No, it’s all boxes of food, food and more food.

Executive Chef Baharuddin of Medan’s Grand Aston City Hall had this to say of the Medanese’s love of food: “Here in Medan, everyone is a chef. They absolutely know and love their food. I can’t afford to screw around with them.

I’ve worked in Jakarta, Surabaya and Lombok and I’ve never seen the level of detail that the Medanese put into their food anywhere else. At a wedding here, the decorations may not be perfect and the lighting may not be as bright as it could be however the food must be pitch perfect, for that is the greatest source of pride.”

Our driver, Pak Min, picked us up at the airport’s front entrance. Pak Min’s client list includes many tourists from Malaysia and Singapore, whom he claims

Java

have been starting to arrive in larger numbers in recent years, as the trend of weekend escapes takes off.

Medan, the capital city of North Sumatra, is located a mere onehour’s flight from both countries, closer than the Indonesian capital, Jakarta.

I decided to start my culinary adventure in one of Medan’s eating epicentres: the city’s legendary Chinatown district.

Due to the legacy of the communist purge during the New Order era, there are barely any Chinese characters, signs or decorations to be seen here. The clearest sign that you are indeed in Chinatown stems from the fact that this area comes alive at night time, with dozens upon dozens of street hawkers setting up shop on the street after dark; each stall lit up with bright lights and attractive window dressings.

Sulawesi

Bali

“everyone is a chef. They absolutely know and love their food. I can’t afford to screw around with them.

I’ve worked in Jakarta, Surabaya and Lombok and I’ve never seen the level of detail that the Medanese put into their food anywhere else."

FROM TOP: Duck noodles | Bihun bebek; An old, Art Deco-style building in Medan | Bangunan kolonial tua bergaya Art Deco, aset sejarah Medan.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

113

Travel Medan

FROM TOP: The entrance to the Maimoon Palace | Fasad depan Istana Maimoon; Porridge at Selat Panjang Street | Bubur di Selat Panjang. OPPOSITE PAGE: Huge portions of bone marrow soup are served with whole leg | Sup sum sum disajikan komplet dengan tulang kaki.

114

Down on Jalan Semarang, make sure that you try the lip-smacking bihun bebek (duck rice noodles) as well as the nasi simangunsong, an authentically flavourpacked Medanese rice dish consisting of fried chicken, king prawns, wok-fried shrimps with watercress and rice cooked with salted fish. Yum! Both of these iconic dishes are available from various vendors along the street and cost no more than IDR 30,000 a portion.

Meanwhile, in Selat Panjang, permanent brick restaurants woo diners into romantic buildings that date back to the 1940s. These eateries promise fantastically satisfying flavours which are the product of decades of tinkering and perfection. Of special note here is the 72-year-old Mie Tiong Sim and its 70-year-old next door neighbour, Kede Bubur (Porridge Cafe). Mie Tiong Sim serves up surreally heavenly noodles topped with pangsit (a type of stuffed dumpling), while How to get there Kede Bubur serves up wholesome porridge To help me in my food quest, I persuad— served with raw egg yolk, condiments and ed Chef Warta to come along with me on Garuda Indonesia flies Jakarta-Medan vv 56 slices of organic chicken. my journey of discovery. Luckily he agreed times per week. Two If martabak (Indonesian pancakes) and his training as a chef proved to be hotels worth trying in Medan are the are your thing, then you’ll be pleased to invaluable in helping me to track down Swiss-Belinn Medan learn that the city of Medan is home to the some of Medan’s hidden gems. First up, (www.swiss-belhotel. com) and Grand Buffet Ahmad Salim on Jalan Arif Rahman we visited Warung Nasi Ibu Sri at Jalan Aston City Hall (www.

Hakim, which serves up the best EgyptianPolonia Street No. 30, a house-cum-restaugrandastonmedan. com). The best way style Martabak in town but which is one of rant serving the largest fish heads (in this of getting around the city’s best kept secrets. This is one of case snapper) in town. town is by motorised becak (rickshaw) and Chef Warta’s personal favourites and the And then there was Rumah Makan P. a single trip should Swiss-Belinn Medan sous chef even goes as Sidimpuan, which serves authentic South cost you around IDR 15,000-20,000. You can far as to guarantee your money back (from Tapanulian food. Sidimpuan, which has also rent a car from his own pocket, no less) if you don’t like it. three branches across the city, mainly Mr. Min (T. 62 852 966 57115).

Another martabak shack that you should serves smoked freshwater fish. At first give a shot is Martabak Terang Bulan on glance, Sidimpuan looks just like any old Jalan S. Parman. This one stands right bePadang restaurant, however once you fore the gleaming Cambridge City Square shopping bite into its bestselling ikan sale, which comes served centre and was the first martabak place to ever grace either crispy or drenched in special curry sauce, then the streets of Medan. I’m happy to report that its histhe difference becomes as clear as night and day. Ikan torical value is on a par with its quality and taste. sale is basically a type of smoked catfish that is endemic to South Tapanuli. Another speciality dish that you shouldn’t miss while you’re here is ikan mas Arsik (Arsik-style goldfish).

Another great Tapanuli restaurant that you absolutely have to pay a visit to, if only to admire the ridiculousness of it all, is Sipirok at Jalan Sunggal No. 30 in the Glugur area of town, which serves up clownish portions of whole-bone leg propped up with straws sticking out from their hollow centres! Sipirok serves up the city’s best bone-marrow soup, and the straw is there so that you can suck up the marrow cleanly without missing a single drop. So go ahead and indulge your most gluttonous instincts.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Garuda Magazine 07.12

115

Travel Medan

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Food display at RM P. Sidimpuan | Etalase makanan di RM P. Sidimpuan; Australian Tenderloin at Grand Aston City Hall | Steik tenderloin di Grand Aston City Hall; Durian Pancake | Panekuk Durian; Tiong Sim Noodles | Mi Tiong Sim.

In the event that you arrive here too late and find that the restaurant has already run out of bonemarrow soup (and it’s worth pointing out here that you should try and arrive for lunch before 11.30 am in Medan), then don’t despair. Simply track down Jalan Setiabudi No. 17B and head into Sop Sumsum Langsa, another bone-marrow restaurant that has become an alternative for hungry but out-of-luck diners.

Our culinary quest continued as we intended to sample the best that Medan had to offer. As it turned out, the city really does possess a virtually endless inventory of superlative food hidden within its deepest nooks and crannies. Want to taste authentic Medanese style soto? Then check out Soto Kesawan, which has branches at Jl. A Yani No. 116, Sei Batang Hari (Wisma Harikita) and on Jl. Surabaya.

Fancy a spot of Indian food? Then head down to Kampung Madrasah (also known as Kampung Keling), and check out the Pagaruyung open-air food court and the 18-year-old Cahaya Baru Indian restaurant down on Jl. Teuku Cik Ditiro, which is noteworthy for its delicious nasi biryani, rotis and prathas. On the corner of Jalans Teuku Cik Ditiro and Simpang Muara Takus lies another hidden Medanese gem known as Tahu Isi Ny. Endang, a vendor selling perfectly crisp-and-fluffy stuffed tofu, which is also possessed of a curiously sweet tang. Be careful with this one though, as it is highly addictive and once you get over the initial unexpected sweetness, one chunk will never be enough.

Need some souvenirs for the folks back home?

Then cruise down to the Majapahit area of town, where Bolu Meranti, Bika Ambon Zulaikha and Risol Gogo reign supreme. Or, if you’re in the know like the locals are, then it’s Bolu Kalimantan Mas on Jalan Kalimantan all the way, which is cheaper and tastes better. Durian pancakes are also a major tourist favourite, however the pancakes only last for about four hours or so before they all go bad. The aforementioned Tahu Isi Ny. Endang down at Kampung Madrasah may be a good alternative as well though.

Medan Surga Makanan Orang Medan gila makan. Fakta ini setidaknya dikonfirmasi oleh Bulog, yang menyatakan bahwa Sumatera Utara adalah provinsi dengan tingkat konsumsi nasi tertinggi di Indonesia. Bukti lain lagi, begitu menginjakkan kaki di Bandara Polonia, kita akan langsung melihat kerumunan orang yang membawa bungkusan suvenir berupa makanan. Jika di Bali yang terlihat mungkin kotak-kotak bertuliskan “Krisna”, maka di Medan yang tampak adalah emblem “Bolu Meranti”.

Baharuddin, Executive Chef Grand Aston City Hall Medan, menggambarkan dengan sempurna gai-

116

Garuda Magazine 07.12

rah makan warga Medan tersebut: “Di Medan, semua orang adalah koki. Mereka benar-benar mengerti dan mencintai makanan. Saya tidak boleh lengah ketika memasak untuk mereka. Saya pernah bekerja di Jakarta, Surabaya, dan Lombok, tapi hanya di Medan harus sedetail ini. Di acara pernikahan, dekorasinya boleh cacat, lampunya boleh tidak sempurna, tapi makanan tidak boleh salah. Makanan adalah sumber kebanggaan orang Medan.”

Pak Min menjemput saya dan fotografer di pintu gerbang. Sopir ramah ini pernah mengantar turis-turis asal Malaysia dan Singapura yang, katanya, jumlahnya terus meningkat. Maklum, Medan berjarak hanya sekitar satu jam dari kedua negara tersebut—lebih dekat ketimbang ke Ibukota Indonesia, Jakarta.

Wisata kuliner dimulai di salah satu sentra makanan terbesar di Medan: Pecinan, tempat yang, uniknya, steril dari aksara Cina maupun dekorasi khas Tionghoa.

Tanda terjelas Anda berada di Pecinan adalah puluhan gerobak kaki lima yang memenuhi tepian jalanan saban malam, komplet dengan lampu-lampu terangnya dan bahan-bahan mentah yang berbaris di etalase.

Di Jalan Semarang, beberapa menu telah menapaki status legenda, contohnya bihun bebek dan nasi Simangunsong, nasi khas Medan yang berisi ayam

“semua orang adalah koki.

Mereka benar-benar mengerti dan mencintai makanan. Saya tidak boleh lengah ketika memasak untuk mereka.

Saya pernah bekerja di Jakarta, Surabaya, dan Lombok, tapi hanya di Medan harus sedetail ini."

Rujak Kolam Raya, Medan's most famous sweet-spicy fruit salad | Rujak Kolam Raya, rujak pedas paling tersohor di Medan.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

117

Travel Sumba

Savoury Egyptian martabak at Buffet Ahmad Salim | Martabak Mesir Buffet Ahmad Salim.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Gigantic fish head curry at Warung Bu Sri | Gulai kepala ikan raksasa di Warung Bu Sri.

118

Travel Travel Pontianak Medan

nyediakan menu superlatif: gulai kepala ikan (kakap) berisi kepala ikan yang ukurannya nyaris menyamai kepala saya.

Berikutnya kami singgah di RM P. Sidimpuan yang menyajikan masakan pesisir khas Tapanuli Selatan.

Sosoknya sekilas mirip rumah makan Padang, namun begitu menggigit menu andalannya, ikan sale, perbedaannya terasa jelas.

Ikan sale memakai bahan lele limbet yang hanya bisa ditemukan di Tapanuli Selatan. Menu lainnya yang wajib dicoba adalah ikan mas arsik dan daun umbi tumbuk.

Satu lagi restoran khas Tapanuli yang menarik dikunjungi adalah RM. Sipirok di Jalan Sunggal, daerah Glugur.

Restoran yang kerap dikunjungi oleh para pejabat ini menyajikan menu unggulan sup sum sum, komplet dengan sedotan untuk menyedot sari sum-sum dari tulang kaki berukuran jumbo. Jika Anda kehabisan sup sum-sum (datang sebelum pukul 11:30 jika tidak mau kehabisan), masih ada Sop Sumsum Langsa di How to get there Jalan Setiabudi No. 17B. — Garuda Indonesia Kuah yang tak kalah segar disajimelayani penergoreng tepung, udang jumbo, kangkung kan oleh Soto Kesawan, tempat suci bagi bangan JakartaMedan pp 56 kali cah petis, dan nasi teri. Yum! Enaknya lagi, pencinta soto Medan. Ada tiga cabang per minggu. Dua kedua hidangan ini dibanderol dengan harga yang bisa dipilih: Jalan A. Yani (depan hotel yang layak disambangi adalah kurang dari Rp 30.000 per piring.

Tjong A Fie Mansion), Sei Batang Hari Swiss-Belinn Medan Sementara di Selat Panjang, restoran(Wisma Harikita), dan Jalan Surabaya. (www.swiss-belhotel. com) dan Grand restoran yang telah beroperasi sejak 1940-an Pesaingnya adalah Soto Sinar Pagi di Sei Aston City Hall (www. mengumbar cita rasa yang sulit ditolak. Dua Deli Medan. Restoran mungil ini pernah grandastonmedan. com). Anda bisa punggawanya adalah Mie Tiong Sim yang bedisambangi banyak media dan pengberkeliling kota rumur 72 tahun dan Kede (Kedai) Bubur yang gila makanan, termasuk bapak kuliner menggunakan bentor dengan tarif Rp berumur 70 tahun. Mie Tiong Sim menyajikan Indonesia, Bondan Winarno.

15.000-20.000 per trip, bakmi dan pangsit, sedangkan Kede Bubur Suka makanan India? Silakan ke atau menyewa mobil dari Pak Min (T. 0852 menyajikan bubur kental yang dilengkapi irisKampung Madrasah (Kampung Keling) 966 57115 an daging ayam kampung dan kuning telur. dan berwisata lidah di Pagaruyung.

Jika Anda penggemar martabak, maka Selagi di Kampung Madrasah, carilah Martabak Mesir Buffet Ahmad Salim di Jalan Arif warung Tahu Isi Ny. Endang di Simpang Muara Takus.

Rahman Hakim tidak boleh dilewatkan. Inilah Martabak Sepanjang Ramadan, tempat ini beroperasi sejak Mesir terlezat di Medan versi Sous Chef Swiss-Belinn siang hingga sore dan senantiasa sumpek dipenuhi Medan, Warta Ismail Maruhawa. “Dijamin,” umbarnya. manusia yang mengantre layaknya hendak menonton “Kalau tidak enak, saya yang bayar!” Satu gerai marTransformers. Tahu isinya yang juicy memang sukses tabak lain yang layak disambangi adalah Martabak membuat banyak orang kecanduan.

Terang Bulan di Jalan S. Parman, sebelum Cambridge Untuk urusan oleh-oleh, silakan singgah di daerah City Square. Kata sang penjual, gerai martabaknya Majapahit untuk menemukan Bolu Meranti, Bika merupakan yang pertama di Medan.

Ambon Zulaikha, dan Risol Gogo. Tapi turis berpengalaBermodal pengalaman sebagai koki professional man umumnya lebih memilih Jalan Kalimantan untuk dan insting yang tajam, Chef Warta memandu saya unmembeli Bolu Kalimantan Mas, yang menurut beberatuk melacak kantong-kantong kuliner terbaik lainnya pa sumber lebih legit dan murah. Panekuk Durian juga di Ibukota Sumatera Utara. Rekomendasi pertamanya: merupakan primadona wisatawan, tapi harus diperhaWarung Nasi Ibu Sri di Jalan Polonia. Restoran ini metikan masa kedaluwarsanya yang hanya empat jam.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Garuda Magazine 07.12

119

et

lv

12

35 41

o nj

Bo m Jl. Ima

PARMAN

. S.

Jl. DIPONEGORO

28

ja ra ga an am o ms ata d. k gjen

Jl. bri

ing

sis

ND

o Jl. sutrisn Jl. rahmadsyah

Jl.

Jl. ISKANDAR MUDA

GGAL Jl. SUN

n

Jl. SETIABUDI

in

mo

mr

th a

uto

da

Jl. IR. H. JUANDA

. H.

Jl. M

Jl. S

bo

mu

9

33

5

18

AN JEN D. SUDIRM

11 22

17

4

ire

pe

JE ET

3

Jl.c

Garuda Magazine 07.12

L JL.

Jl.

19. On Do Batak Grill Jl. Pabrik Tenun No. 45.

20. RM. BPK Tesalonika Jl. Jamin Ginting Simpang Selayang No. 103

39

JL .

37 10

2

t

Batak Grill

ni ya

15. Sate Padang Al Fresco Km. 12 Medan, Binjai 16. Sate Triadi Jl. Bandar Baru 17. Sate Padang Triadi Jl. Malaka No. 34 (Simp Jl. Jambi) 18. Sate Padang Afrizal Amir Jl. Brigjend. Katamso No. 150

8 29 30

40 Jl. H. Z. ARIFIN 24 34 36

1

ra

Sate Padang

ra den saleh 6

31 32 Jl. GAJAHMADA

26

Jl. halat

23

25

27

P in ol Ai te on rp rn ia or at t io n

Gint ing

21

jl. Let jend.

Jamin

AD

al

20

Padang 13. RM. Nasi Kapau Uni Emi Jl. Rotan No. 83 (Belakang Golden), Simpang Petisah 14. Restaurant Garuda Branches located throughout the City of Medan

38

ba

7 Jl. Sei BATANGHARI

13

a.

Jl.

10. Lontong Kak (Hajjah) Lin Jl. Teuku Cik Ditiro No. 1 (in front of SMAN 1) 11. Lontong Abah Jl. Setiabudi 12. Lontong Setan (Lontong Mumun) Jl. Jalan Yos Sudarso, Glugur

j

Jl. Jendral Gatot Subroto

an iri

Lontong

To binjai 15

US MP

l.

5. Soto Kesawan Tom & Jerry Jl. Surabaya 6. Soto Kesawan Jl. A Yani No. 116 7. Soto Kesawan Sei Batang Hari (Wisma Harikita) 8. Soto Purwodadi Jl. Iskandar Muda No. 40 9. Soto Sinar Pagi Jl. Sei Deli Medan

P AT

Jl.

URU JL. G

N

JL. prof. H. M. Yamin

ERDEKAAN TIS KEM ERIN 16 JL. P

u

KIP

SE

19

Jl. PERJUANGA

Jl. MERAK

jl. putri hija

JL. danau singkarak

Jl. Gaperta

Soto

120

so

Jl. Karya

JL

l

JL. KAPTEN SOEMARSONO

e .h

Jl. belibis/tunggal

pa

Jl. krakatau

by

Jl.

1. Kede (Kedai) Bubur Jl. Selat Panjang No. 11 2. Bakmi Tiong Sim Jl. Selat Panjang 3. Bakmi Khek Jl. Bogor 4. Martabak Piring Murni Jl. Bogor/Selat Panjang & Jl. Semarang

jl. kol bejo

ss

ia

d ar JL. yos su

China Town

jl. cemara

anan tah

Jl. arif rahman hakim

Road To Happiness

per

puran tem

Jl. islamiyah

pe r

Travel Medan

Only in Medan

Durian

Indian

21. Warung Nasi Ibu Sri Jl. Polonia No. 30, Medan 22. Mie Aceh Titi Bobrok Jl. Setiabudi No. 17C, Medan Sungga 23. Buffet Ahmad Salim Jl. Arif Rahman Hakim 160A, Medan, Perbaungan 24. Kweatiau Kerang S. Parman Jl. S Parman (next to Pangkas Ria/ Cin Huang Restaurant) 25. Rumah Makan “P. Sidimpuan” Khas Tapanuli Selatan Jl. Sisingamangaraja Km. 5.8, No. 19B 26. Sop Sum Sum Sepirok Jl. Sunggal No. 14 27. Sop Sumsum Langsa Jl. Setiabudi No. 17 28. Rujak Padang Gumarang Kolam Raya In front of Kolam Raya / Across from the Grand Mosque

29. Durian Ucok Jl. Iskandar & Jl. KH Wahid Hasyim No. 30/32 30. Pondok Durian “Pak Singlet” Jl. Iskandar Muda

37. Cahaya Baru North & South Indian Food Jl. Teuku Cik Ditiro No. 12/16

Souvenirs

38. Jade Dragon Grand Aston City Hall Medan, Jl. Balai Kota No. 1 39. The Traders Restaurant Jl. Kapten Pattimura No. 423 40. Bel Mondo Cafe Jl. H Zainul Arifin No. 122 B 41. Jade Restaurant JW Marriott Medan, Jl. Putri Hijau No. 10

31. Bolu Meranti Jl. Majapahit 32. Bika Ambon Zulaikha Jl. Majapahit 33. Bolu Kalimantan Mas Jl. Kalimantan 34. Restaurant Nelayan Mie Jaring Sun Plaza Lt. III B. 42-43 35. Taipan Restaurant Capital Building Ground Floor, Jl. Putri Hijau No. 1A 36. Tahu Isi Ny. Endang Jl. Muara Takus

Fine Dining

Garuda Magazine 07.12

121

Travel Australia

GATE to the

Holy Land The Saudi government is trying to turn Jeddah into a travel destination. Tourists are invited to see the artifacts of the kingdom, to meet desert animals in a conservation area and to explore the dunes. Nick Walton takes on an exciting expedition at the gate to the holy land.

Pemerintah Arab Saudi mulai giat membangun industri pariwisata di Jeddah. Turis diajak melihat warisan kerajaan, bertemu hewan-hewan gurun di kawasan konservasi, dan mengarungi bukit-bukit pasir. Nick Walton melakoni ekspedisi atraktif di gerbang tanah suci.

122

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Garuda Magazine 07.12

123

Travel Jeddah

Saudi Arabia Cairo Jeddah

Dubai

As dusk settles over the desert, the heat finally relents and tranquility takes over the camp. A tall, proud, black-haired camel bull, whose name in Arabic means “strength”, has been baying incessantly but is stilled as the light drains from the sky. Camp stewards dressed in flowing white robes scurry around lighting fires and preparing tea beneath ornate Bedouin tents frilled with gold lace that flickers in the firelight. It really is a scene out of “Arabian Nights”.

124

Garuda Magazine 07.12

And that’s exactly what Jeddah’s fledgling tourism industry is hoping to capitalise on. Jeddah, the so-called Pearl of the Red Sea and gateway to the holy city of Mecca, has for centuries welcomed millions of foreign traders and Hajj pilgrims, becoming the Kingdom’s most cosmopolitan metropolis in the process.

Now however, the city’s elders are also looking towards horizons new in the hope that Jeddah’s unique heritage, ancient markets, archeological treasures and desert landscape will prove popular with independent, open-minded travellers from all over the world.

My hotel, the Hilton Jeddah, is palatial, regal and the size of a shopping mall. Here I meet my guide, Samir Komosani, general manager of Platin Travel and the Kingdom’s first licensed tour operator. Samir certainly looks the part: tall and noble in flowing white robes, with a delicate moustache and an easy smile. Having studied in the US, Samir is open minded about Saudi’s tourism prospects and hopes that the Kingdom will start to welcome a greater number of foreign travellers to its shores.

As the sun climbs in the sky, we make our way through Jeddah’s bustling streets and along the Corniche, a seaside belt of manicured green grass and picnic tables where families congregate during the weekends. We eventually arrive at a private museum enclosed by traditional mud walls.

The Al-Tayibat City Museum for International Civilisation might have a rather grandiose name but it’s certainly worth a visit. The old building still features narrow, low-hung corridors from its days as a boarding school, and its 300 odd rooms are packed with items—both precious and seemingly banal— from the Saudi Kingdom’s history. There are figurines dressed as desert warriors, collections of priceless porcelain and ancient coins, and also weathered tapestries depicting life and faith of the people. With a wizened old curator by your side, it’s easy to lose yourself in this captivating collection.

Emerging from the museum, we head back towards the Red Sea to explore Jeddah’s many outdoor sculptures. During the oil boom of the 1970s, the city commissioned hundreds of pieces by the likes of César Baldaccini, Henry Moore and Alexander Calder. Some pay tribute to the Kingdom’s history while others, like the towering virtual map of Jeddah’s contemporary master plan, are made from left over metal from the construction of the Al-Anani Mosque and testify to

the city’s future. Jeddah’s sculptures remain a point of civic pride among the city’s residents.

The shadows are long by the time we enter the warren of Al-Balad (Old Jeddah). The imams call the faithful to prayer from the minarets and the streets suddenly fall quiet as another day comes to an end.

Shops close, traffic dies down and for a few minutes I’m virtually alone in Saudi Arabia. After a few minutes though, as the moon starts to climb into the inky sky, the bustle of the old quarter returns like the regular beating of a heart.

Al-Balad is a great place to explore. Famed for its crumbling coral buildings, which tower precariously above the narrow alleyways, you’ll find ancient shoe smiths and candy stores selling dried fruit and nuts here. There are also Somali bakeries and rug stores whose wares spill out onto the street to be enjoyed.

Samir shows me the humble home in which he was born and spent much of his youth. These ancient streets have hosted countless families as oil wealth gave birth to the modern city around them.

We dine at Al-Nakheel on the Corniche, a busy restaurant that sits under a vaulted, tent-like canopy, and feast on roast lamb, creamy hummus and warm khobz (unleavened bread) before smoking shisha pipes packed with apple-scented tobacco. I can’t help but have another “Arabian Nights” moment as I watch Samir suck at the pipe casually, plumes of smoke haloing above him.

“Saudi Arabia has a lot to offer travellers from overseas,” he says through a cloud of smoke. “As long as they respect our ways, our religion and our traditions, then they will find us to be a very hospitable people.

Arabian hospitality is famous and in Saudi you get the real deal.”

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Camels play an important role in the Bedouin culture | Unta memainkan peran penting dalam kebudayaan Badui; Sandals for sale in the Old Town | Sandal-sandal yang dijajakan di Jeddah Lama; Streets signs in Jeddah's ancient district | Pelang jalan di distrik sepuh. OPPOSITE PAGE: Old homes remain in Jeddah's oldest precinct | Rumah-rumah uzur yang tersisa.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

125

One of Jeddah's many eye catching outdoor sculptures | Salah satu instalasi yang menghiasi kota.

I awake early the next morning from dreams of genies and talking hookah pipes. Samir drives me out of the city, past the sprawling international airport and the magnificent Hajj Terminal, which is designed to look like a Bedouin encampment to protect hundreds of thousands of arriving pilgrims from the fierce Saudi sun. The annual Hajj has begun and the sky is filled with aircraft from across the globe, ferrying pilgrims to Mecca.

Well into the desert now, at a dusty service station, I’m introduced to a band of rebellious-looking off-road enthusiasts and their fleet of rumbling 4x4s. This is the

126

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Safeer Al-Remal, an off-road driving club that offers desert adventures to intrepid travellers. Just as it is in Qatar and Dubai, the desert here is the place where the first shoots of tourism are blooming.

Following a line of towering power pylons, we delve into the wilderness, a moonscape of red dust and basketball-sized boulders. We quickly descend into a low wide basin and its sea of fine white sand. My driver looks like a pirate. Mohammad is the leader of this band of daredevils and has a scarf wrapped around his head above his dark Ray-Bans and bushy moustache.

He controls his modified Land Cruiser with a delicate touch, charging up the sides of impossibly steep dunes, revving the engine and kicking sand into the air. The desert is quite beautiful in its desolation.

“I really love it out here,” says Mohammad, a Jordanian by birth. Driving through the desert is still a side job to his main vocation as an accountant.

“Hopefully one day we will be able to spend every day showing people the beauty of the Saudi deserts, just like they do in other Arab countries. We’re less touristy

During the oil boom of the 1970s, the city commissioned hundreds of pieces by the likes of César Baldaccini, Henry Moore and Alexander Calder.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Preparing to enter the desert | Bersiap-siap menjelajahi gurun; Nut nougat in a market place in Ghulail | Manisan kacang di pasar Ghulail; Corn cobs roast on the city's Corniche | Pedagang jagung bakar di area piknik Corniche.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

127

Travel Jeddah CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: An authentic Bedouin meal | Salah satu menu autentik Badui; A dinner set for a king at a private royal camp outside Jeddah | Sajian makan malam bagi raja di sebuah tenda di luar Jeddah; Plump dates and piping hot coffee make for a traditional Arab welcome | Kurma dan kopi panas adalah menu penyambut tamu khas Arab.

Gerbang Tanah Suci here, so it’s a different, more authentic experience.”

To finish the day, we scramble back to the highway, blow air into our tyres (which had been deflated for greater traction through the sand) and race the setting sun to a sprawling compound hidden behind rows of tall trees. A watchman’s face peers out between the bars of a towering gate bearing the Saudi Arabian emblem, two crossed swords below a palm tree. This is the private wildlife conservatory of one of Saudi’s numerous princes. Our headlights reflect off the eyes of hyenas, Arabian oryx, ostriches and giraffes, which stand impassively in their enclosures, while pigeons can be seen flying home to roost in their mud-and-stone tower.

“Although this belongs to the royal family, hopefully one day tourists from around the world will be able to visit and share our passion for the desert, wildlife and Bedouin culture,” explains Samir. A barbeque crackles, a drum beat begins and soon men are dancing and singing under the moonlight, their traditional gowns riding high as they twirl. “After all, the Arabs are famous for their hospitality.”

Perhaps other travellers will one day be able to enjoy enchanting “Arabian Nights” style experiences in the land which inspired those legendary stories.

How to get there

— Garuda Indonesia flies Jakarta-Jeddah vv 13 times per week.

Taxis are available in the city and you can find one easily in hotels and malls.

For a guided tour of the city and suburbs, simply contact Platin Travel (T. 966 2 266 6575, www.platin. com.sa).

128

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Matahari tenggelam di batas horizon gurun. Panas mereda dan keheningan meliputi tenda-tenda Badui.

Seekor unta jantan langsung terdiam usai menyadari cahaya telah menghilang dari langit. Para petugas tenda yang mengenakan jubah putih melambailambai, bergerak gesit untuk menghidupkan api, lalu menyiapkan teh. Cahaya kuning api memantul di barisan renda emas di tenda, hingga menciptakan atmosfer yang gemerlap di tengah gulita. Benar-benar mirip adegan di kisah Seribu Satu Malam.

Kesan itulah yang memang didambakan pelaku industri pariwisata Jeddah. Selama berabad-abad, kota yang dijuluki “Mutiara Laut Merah” dan gerbang kota suci ini melayani jutaan pedagang dan peziarah yang hendak naik haji. Kaum senior di Jeddah, kota paling kosmopolitan di kerajaan Arab Saudi, sepertinya sedang menjajaki strategi baru untuk menyulap harta kota—mulai dari pasar-pasar kuno, artefak arkeologi, hingga lanskap padang pasir—jadi magnet untuk memikat pelancong internasional yang memiliki selera bagus dan berpikiran terbuka.

Di lobi Hilton Jeddah, saya bertemu Samir Komosani, general manager Platin Travel, operator tur berlisensi pertama di Arab Saudi. Penampilan sang pemandu sesuai dengan jabatannya—jangkung dan berkarisma ningrat, memakai jubah putih, serta berkumis tipis. Sempat menempuh pendidikan di Amerika Serikat, Samir bersikap optimis mengenai prospek pariwisata negaranya.

Matahari terus mendaki langit saat kami menyusuri jalan-jalan sibuk Jeddah dan tepian Corniche, yakni sabuk hijau di sepanjang pantai dengan rumput hijau yang terawat rapi dan meja-meja piknik tempat para

keluarga berkumpul di akhir pekan. Setelah itu, kami ke sebuah museum pribadi yang dilingkupi dinding lumpur tradisional.

Nama Tauibat City Museum for International Civilization (www.altayebatcity.com) mungkin terkesan berlebihan, tapi bangunan ini memang pantas disambangi. Museum ini masih mempertahankan koridor-koridor sempit dari masa ketika ia berstatus sekolah asrama. Di bawah langit-langitnya yang rendah bernaung sekitar 300 kamar yang seluruhnya memajang barang warisan kerajaan. Ada patungpatung kecil yang berpakaian ala tentara padang pasir, sejumlah porselen dan koin kuno yang tak terbayang harganya, serta kain-kain bersulam dengan motif yang melukiskan kehidupan dan keyakinan. Tiap barang ini dilengkapi dengan informasi, jadi memudahkan pengunjung dalam memahaminya.

Bertolak dari museum, kami meluncur ke Laut Merah untuk melihat patung-patung yang teronggok di alam terbuka. Di masa kejayaan minyak era 1970-

FROM LEFT: A royal collection exhibits in the Al-Tayibat City Museum | Salah satu koleksi kerajaan yang ditampilkan di Museum Al-Tayibat City; Ancient houses in Al Balad from the pre-oil boom era | Rumah-rumah uzur di Al Balad dari masa sebelum Jeddah menikmati oil boom.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

129

Travel Jeddah

FROM LEFT: A curious giraffe in a royal compound | Jerapah penghuni kawasan konservasi milik pangeran Arab; Facade of an old house in Al Balad | Fasad sebuah rumah tua di Al Balad.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Today's young Arabs prefer to tackle the dunes by quad bike | Generasi muda Arab lebih menyukai quad bike ketimbang unta saat mengarungi gurun.

an, Jeddah pernah menyewa pematung-pematung kondang sekaliber César Baldaccini, Henry Moore, dan Alexander Calder, untuk menciptakan ratusan instalasi apik dari logam sisa konstruksi Masjid Al Anani.

Sebagian karya itu dibuat untuk menghormati sejarah kerajaan, sementara sisanya menggambarkan karakter Jeddah masa kini. Masa depan maupun masa lampau, keduanya merupakan kebanggaan warga kota.

Saat bayang-bayang kian miring, kami mendarat di Al Balad (Jeddah Lama), bagian kota yang dipenuhi jalan berliku. Di ujung menara masjid, para muazin menyerukan panggilan kepada kaum beriman untuk segera menyapa Tuhan. Al Balad adalah tempat yang menarik dijelajahi. Anda bisa menemukan tukang sepatu bergaya kuno, serta aneka warung yang menjajakan buah kering dan kacang-kacangan, toko roti Somalia, serta penjual karpet yang barang dagangannya meluber hingga badan jalan.

Kami berhenti untuk makan di Al-Nakheel, restoran yang dipayungi kanopi dan terlihat mirip tenda. Menu malam ini terdiri dari daging domba panggang, hummus, dan khobz (roti tanpa ragi). Setelah itu, kami mengisap shisha berisi tembakau beraroma apel. “Arab

Saudi menawarkan banyak hal kepada wisatawan asing,” kata Samir. “Selama mereka menghormati cara-cara kami, juga agama dan tradisi kami, maka mereka akan mendapati kami adalah bangsa yang ramah. Keramahtamahan bangsa Arab sangat tersohor, dan di Saudi Anda akan mendapatkan keramahtamahan yang sejati.”

Pagi berikutnya, Samir membawa saya keluar kota, melewati bandara internasional dan terminal hajinya yang megah.

Jauh di tengah gurun, persisnya di sebuah pompa bensin yang berdebu, saya berkenalan dengan serombongan penggemar off-road yang tampak seperti pemberontak di atas mobil 4WD. Mereka bersatu di bawah panji Safeer Al Remal, klub mobil off-road yang menawarkan petualangan padang pasir kepada para wisatawan yang bernyali tebal. Seperti di Qatar dan Dubai, gurun seringkali merupakan tempat di mana benih pariwisata disemai.

Mengikuti barisan tiang listrik jangkung, kami menembus alam liar yang terlihat bagaikan permukaan bulan. Debu merah dan bebatuan sebesar bola basket bertaburan. Pengemudi saya berdandan ala bajak laut—berkumis tebal, kepala terbalut syal, memakai

Di masa kejayaan minyak era 1970-an, Jeddah pernah menyewa pematungpematung sekaliber César Baldaccini, Henry Moore, dan Alexander Calder, untuk menciptakan ratusan instalasi apik.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

131

Travel Jeddah CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: An odd but important road sign on the desert road | Rambu yang aneh tapi sangat penting di jalan-jalan di gurun; Hummus laced with olive oil and pomegranate seeds | Hummus dicampur minyak zaitun dan biji delima; An African dancer twirls to an ancient Arabic beat | Seorang penari Afrika mengikuti alunan musik padang pasir.

How to get there

kacamata hitam. Namanya Mohammad, pemimpin Safeer Al Remal. “Saya mencintai tempat ini,” ujar pria yang sebenarnya terlahir di Yordania ini. “Di masa depan, mudah-mudahan setiap hari kami bisa menunjukkan ke publik keindahan padang pasir Saudi. Saudi tidak terlalu touristy, jadi pengalaman yang disajikannya berbeda, lebih autentik.”

Menutup kegiatan hari ini, kami kembali ke jalan raya, mengisi udara ban, lalu melaju ke arah matahari terbenam. Setelah melewati sebuah lahan yang sangat luas dan tersembunyi di balik pohon-pohon tinggi, kami berhenti di depan gerbang besar yang dihiasi emblem Arab Saudi: dua pedang bersilang di bawah sebuah pohon kurma. Wajah seorang penjaga kemudian muncul di antara jeruji pintu.

Tempat ini adalah konservatori hewan liar milik salah seorang pangeran (ada banyak pangeran di Arab Saudi). Mobil melenggang masuk dengan lampu menyoroti mata hyena dan oryx. Kami juga melewati burung unta dan jerapah yang terpaku di dalam kandang, serta kawanan merpati yang menukik ke arah kandang yang bersemayam di menara batu.

“Walaupun tempat ini milik keluarga kerajaan, semoga kelak para wisatawan dari seantero dunia dapat mengunjunginya dan berbagi kecintaan kami terhadap gurun, alam liar, dan kebudayaan Badui,” jelas Samir seraya menyuguhkan secangkir teh hitam.

Tungku makanan meletup-letup dan tambur pun dimainkan. Dalam sekejap, para lelaki menari dan menyanyi di dalam sinar rembulan, hingga jubah panjang mereka melambai-lambai mengikuti putaran tubuh. “Orang Arab memang terkenal akan keramahtamahannya,” kata Samir.

— Garuda Indonesia melayani penerbangan JakartaJeddah pp 13 kali per minggu. Taksi tersedia di dalam kota dan beberapa sopirnya ternyata berasal dari Indonesia. Untuk tur bersama pemandu di kota dan daerah pinggiran, silakan hubungi Platin Travel (T. 966 2 6575 266, www.platin.com.sa).

132

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Photograph: Corbis (1).

AD

Garuda Magazine 07.12

133

City Guide Southlinks Country Club

Where to eat Kedai Kopi Harum Manis Jl. Imam Bonjol Blok F No. 10, T. 62 778 458 625

Golden Prawn Jl. Bengkong Laut, T. 62 778 411 138, www.goldenprawnbatam.com

Nay@Dam Ruko Puri Legenda, Blok D1 No. 3, Batam Centre, www.bingkanayadam.com

Japanese Restaurant Naruto Jl. Gajah Mada Km. 9, Sei Ladi, Sekupang, www.southlinksgolf.com

What to see

Golden Prawn

Where to stay Nongsa Point Marina

Lucky Plaza en/ Thanks to free-trade-zone regulations, prices here are relatively cheap. Moreover, the sellers here are usually quite generous in giving discounts on all of the latest gadgets. in/ Berkat adanya regulasi zona perdagangan bebas, harga barang di sini relatif lebih murah. Ditambah lagi, para pedagang cukup royal dalam memberi diskon, termasuk untuk gajet terbaru

Jl. Hang Lekiu Nongsa, T. 62 778 761 333, www.nongsapointmarina.com

Turi Beach Resort Jl. Hang Lekiu, Nongsa, T. 62 778 761 080, www.turibeach.com

Mercure Batam Jl Raden Patah 12, T. 62 778 452 777, www.mercure.com

134

Garuda Magazine 07.12

Galang Island en/ Galang can be reached via the Barelang Bridge and is a poignant memorial to the drama of the Vietnam War. After being battered by ocean waves for several months, thousands of refugees reached the Galang shoreline and refused to go back. Former

barracks, a hospital, a church, a school and a cemetery now remain in ghostly silence. in/ Bisa dijangkau lewat Jembatan Barelang, pulau ini menyimpan drama pedih Perang Vietnam. Usai terkocok gelombang berbulan-bulan, ribuan pengungsi mendarat di pesisirnya dan menolak untuk kembali. Yang tersisa adalah bekas barak, rumah sakit, gereja, sekolah, dan kuburan.

World-Class Golf Course en/ Batam is also a golfer’s heaven. World-class courses designed by world-famous designers can be played for only a fraction of the price that they would cost elsewhere in the world. Check out Tering Bay Golf & Country Club, Southlinks Country Club and Batam Indah Puri Golf Resort. in/ Banyak yang tidak tahu, Batam merupakan destinasi golf. Lapangan kelas dunia

Lucky Plaza

yang dirancang oleh desainer top di pulau ini menawarkan tarif yang cukup bersahabat.

Berikut beberapa yang layak dijajal: Tering Bay Golf & Country Club, Southlinks Country Club, dan Batam Indah Puri Golf Resort.

How to get there en/ Garuda Indonesia flies Jakarta-Batam vv 35 times per week. The most practical way of getting around the island, including to its many shopping centres, is by renting a car. in/ Garuda Indonesia melayani penerbangan Jakarta-Batam pp 35 kali per minggu. Cara paling praktis untuk berkeliling pulau dan mengunjungi pusat-pusat perbelanjaannya adalah dengan mobil sewaan.

PHOTOGRAPH: Arvada Haradiran.

BATAM

Garuda Magazine 07.12

135

Where to eat Hyeonraejang BBS Building, 140 Mapo-dong, Mapo-gu , T. 82 2 715 0730

Between 124-7 Yongsan-gu, Itaewon-dong

Nochi 653-10 Sinsa-dong, Gangnamgu, T. 82 2 515 6531

Gogung 12-14, Chungmuro 2-ga, Jung-gu, T. 82 2 776 3211

One of Bintan's small islands

Gyeongbok Palace

Where to stay Grand Hyatt Seoul T. 82 2 797 1234,

SEOUL

seoul.grand.hyatt.com

What to see

W Seoul 175 Achaseong-Gil, GwangjinGu, T. 82 2 465 2222, www.starwoodhotels.com

Shilla Seoul 202 Jangchung-dong 2-ga, Junggu, T. 82 2 2233 3131, www.shilla.net

Grand Seoul Parnas 521 Teheran-Ro, Gangnam-Gu, T. 82 2 555 5656, www.ichotelsgroup.com

Lotte World

Lotte World en/ Lotte World is perfect for families. Open year-round, the park consists of an outdoor section known as Magic Island and an artificial island on a lake linked by monorail which is known as Adventure. Lotte World also features shopping malls, a Korean folk museum, sports facilities and movie theatres, all in one place. in/ Lotte World adalah tempat hiburan yang sempurna untuk keluarga. Buka sepanjang tahun, Lotte World memiliki area outdoor bernama “Magic Island” dan area indoor bertajuk “Adventure”. Taman raksasa ini juga menawarkan mall, museum, sarana olahraga, serta bioskop. 40-1 Jamsildong, Songpa-gu, T. 82 2 419 7000, www.lotteworld.com.

Nanta en/ It’s hard to describe Nanta until you actually see it for yourself and start rolling on the floor with laughter. Part

136

Garuda Magazine 07.12

slapstick comedy, part circus performance and part magic show, audiences young and old will be mesmerised by the antics of these skilled performing artists. in/ Pertunjukan ini agak susah dikategorikan karena memang formatnya “ajaib”. Bergulir sejak 1997, teater dagelan ini menampilkan aksi-aksi yang mengombinasikan akrobat, sulap, musikal, serta drama— semuanya kocak dan tanpa dialog. nanta.i-pmc.co.kr.

Nanta

ia masih setia memancarkan nilai-nilai tradisional Negeri Ginseng. Luangkan waktu paling tidak sejam untuk mengelilingi kompleksnya.

1 Sejongro, Jongno-gu, T. 82 2 171 2461, royalpalace.go.kr.

How to get there Gyeongbok Palace en/ Built in the late 1300s, this is perhaps Korea’s most famous royal palace. Destroyed and reconstructed numerous times, the palace remains a living history of Korea’s architectural traditions and court customs. Give yourself at least an hour to stroll around the pavilions and halls within the palace’s walled grounds. in/ Dibangun di akhir 1300an, Gyeongbok Palace adalah istana paling terkenal di Korea.

Meski pernah hancur dan direkonstruksi berulang kali,

en/ Garuda Indonesia flies Jakarta-Seoul vv seven times per week. For short trips with friends, taxis are cheaper than buses. To avoid the traffic altogether, simply hop onto the city’s modern subway (www.seoulmetro.co.kr). in/ Garuda Indonesia melayani penerbangan Jakarta-Seoul pp tujuh kali per minggu.

Untuk perjalanan jarak dekat bersama teman-teman, taksi lebih murah dibandingkan bus.

Guna menghindari kemacetan, lebih baik Anda memilih subway (www.seoulmetro.co.kr).

Photograph: Getty Images (1), Courtesy of Lotte World, Nanta.

322, Sowol-ro, Yongsan-gu,

Garuda Magazine 07.12

137

Interview

Gatot Mudiantoro Suwondo, Chief Executive Officer of Bank Negara Indonesia:

“The Indonesian banking industry has been competitive for a long time” Since being elected as the CEO back in 2008, Gatot has been strengthening the financial foundations of BNI and is leading the bank as an important player in the Indonesian economy. Interview by Arvada Haradiran.

Photograph by Adi. Sejak terpilih sebagai CEO di 2008, Gatot berhasil memperkuat fondasi finansial BNI sekaligus membawa bank ini jadi pemain penting dalam perekonomian Indonesia.

Wawancara oleh Arvada Haradiran. Foto oleh Adi.

BNI was the Indonesian bank responsible for the first official currency of the young republic, and today the company has over 1,000 offices around the world. What’s next in line for you? | Bank Negara Indonesia adalah bank Indonesia pertama yang mengedarkan mata uang nasional resmi, dan kini telah memiliki lebih dari 1.000 kantor cabang. Apa langkah selanjutnya? en/ The next step is to grow sustainably. To grow, there are two areas that we are focusing on, and those are corporate banking and consumer banking. In our consumer banking endeavours, we try to engage our customers in such a way that we remain relevant to them throughout their lives. In other words, lifetime banking. Through our corporate banking, we invest in those industries which we predict will boom within five years. Industries that we believe will achieve such strong growth include aviation and tourism, in which Garuda Indonesia, as the nation’s flag carrier, is best poised to lead. in/ Langkah berikutnya adalah tumbuh secara berkesinambungan.

Saat ini kami memfokuskan pertumbuhan pada dua area: perbank-

154

Garuda Magazine 07.12

an korporasi dan perbankan ritel. Di ritel, kami berupaya untuk terus menjadi relevan bagi pelanggan di sepanjang hidup mereka, sehingga mereka menjadi pelanggan seumur hidup. Sementara di bidang korporasi, kami berinvestasi di industri yang memiliki potensi untuk melejit dalam kurun lima tahun ke depan. Salah satunya adalah penerbangan dan pariwisata, di mana Garuda Indonesia sebagai maskapai nasional memiliki potensi yang luar biasa.

Is that why this July BNI launched a co-branded credit card with Garuda Indonesia? | Itukah alasannya BNI meluncurkan kartu kredit co-branded Garuda Indonesia, Juli ini? en/ Basically BNI and Garuda Indonesia agreed to roll out a cobranded Garuda BNI Credit Card on April 16, 2012, and the card was launched fresh from the oven just this month. In fact, two distinct credit cards were issued under this agreement, which aims to grab premium and affluent corporate customers—especially Garuda Frequent Flyer (GFF) members—and these are the Visa Platinum and the Visa Signature.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

155

in/ Pada 16 April 2012, BNI dan Garuda Indonesia setuju untuk bekerjasama mengeluarkan produk kartu kredit dengan branding terpadu, dan launching perdananya adalah bulan ini. Terdapat dua produk kartu kredit dalam kerjasama ini, yaitu Visa Platinum dan Visa Signature, yang didesain spesial untuk pasar A++, khususnya anggota Garuda Frequent Flyer (GFF).

What are the differences between the Visa Platinum and Visa Signature cards? | Apa perbedaan antara Visa Platinum dan Visa Signature? en/ Both cards will offer unparalleled convenience for corporate customers of Garuda Indonesia, as well as our own corporate, consumer and retail customers who fly Garuda Indonesia, but the Visa Signature is, by design, positioned higher than the Visa Platinum and will offer greater benefits, such as higher credit limits and greater coverage. The Visa Platinum should suit GFF membership levels Blue to Silver, while the Visa Signature is best suited to GFF membership levels Gold and Platinum. in/ Kedua kartu memberikan banyak fasilitas dan kemudahan bagi pelanggan korporat Garuda Indonesia, dan tentunya juga bagi nasabah korporat, konsumen, dan ritel kami yang menggunakan jasa Garuda Indonesia. Namun Visa Signature diposisikan lebih tinggi dari Visa Platinum, dan memberikan keuntungan yang lebih besar, contohnya batas kredit yang lebih tinggi dan jaminan asuransi. Visa Platinum cocok bagi anggota GFF level Blue dan Silver, sedangkan Visa Signature sesuai bagi anggota GFF level Gold dan Platinum.

Where are you intending to take BNI over the next five years? | Seperti apa BNI versi Anda dalam lima tahun mendatang? en/ I’m going to be focusing on developing those industries which I think will become the next hot thing, such as telecommunications, aviation and tourism. In term of consumer banking, I’m going to be focusing on shifting development from bricks-and-mortar offices to electronic services, such as e-banking. The cost of such services is much cheaper than traditional bank buildings, while the convenience is much higher. The biggest challenge here is, of course, achieving a universally accepted definition of convenience and a perceived feeling of security. in/ Saya akan fokus pada industri-industri yang memiliki potensi eksplosif, contohnya telekomunikasi, penerbangan, serta pari-

156

Garuda Magazine 07.12

wisata. Untuk perbankan ritel, saya akan melakukan pergeseran fokus, dari pembangunan infrastruktur riil, contohnya bangunan kantor, ke infrastruktur maya, contohnya e-banking. Biaya pembangunan infrastruktur maya jauh lebih murah dan tingkat kenyamanannya jauh lebih tinggi. Tantangannya adalah mencapai tingkat kenyamanan dan keamanan yang bisa diterima baik oleh masyarakat luas.

Lately we have seen a number of foreign banks targeting Indonesia. Do you see this as good news or bad news? | Banyak bank asing membidik pasar Indonesia. Ini kabar baik atau buruk bagi industri perbankan nasional? en/ Neither. It’s just news. I don’t want to sound boastful, but the Indonesian banking industry has been competitive for a long time now. You can see for yourself.

BNI is ready and is competitive.

In fact, my biggest complaint has been that other foreign markets should open themselves up, so that we can also compete in their markets. in/ Jangan melihatnya sebagai berita baik atau buruk. Anggap saja ini berita, titik. Bukannya saya jemawa, tapi industri perbankan di Indonesia sudah siap sejak lama. Anda bisa melihatnya sendiri. BNI telah lama siap dan kompetitif. Malah saya sering meminta pasar di luar negeri juga membuka diri, supaya kita juga bisa masuk ke sana. Sekarang ini yang terjadi adalah mereka menuntut kita untuk terbuka, padahal mereka masih tertutup.

What are your secret banking success tips? / Apa resep sukses rahasia Anda sebagai seorang bankir? en/ There are no secrets. You just make sure that you follow the usual path to success: lots of hard work, integrity and taking care of the company’s most valuable asset: its employees. That means you need to trust them, and they need to trust you. This is the hardest thing to achieve but once you have, then everything just sort of clicks into place, and everyone and everything just moves by themselves. in/ Tidak ada resep rahasia. Semuanya resep “old-fashioned”, yaitu kerja keras, integritas, dan peduli terhadap aset perusahaan yang paling berharga: karyawan. Ini artinya saya harus membangun kepercayaan antara atasan dengan bawahan, begitu pula sebaliknya. Hal ini paling sulit dicapai. Namun begitu tercapai, maka saya semuanya berfungsi. Baik SDM maupun sistem akan berjalan dengan sendirinya.

Garuda Magazine 07.12

157