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MECHANICAL WONDERS 492937 9 771978
(P. Jawa) Rp. 95.000,(Luar P. Jawa) Rp. 100.000,-
ISSN 1978-4929
#13 FESTIVE 2014
Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Ceramic Carbon
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• The real relationship between movement suppliers and watch manufactures • Watches for motoring aficionados • Raising the stakes with premium collections • Hipsterism and horology – what gives?
WATCHES&WONDERS 2014 REPORT
Top highlights of new & most talked-about watches
WOW 2014 GIFT GUIDE The all-inclusive, all-purpose watch shopping manual for enthusiasts
HY T A sia | 24 C airnhill Road | 2 29 65 4 Singapore
H2 | Iceberg wHIte gold HYT is the first timepiece ever to combine mechanical and liquid engineering. H2, unique Swiss technology and movement made in cooperation with Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi - manual winding and 8-day power-reserve - driving a unique high-tech fluidic technology. HYT - a new dawn in watchmaking.
H Y T WATC H E S .CO M
INDONESIA’S PREMIER
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CONTENTS
23 REGULARS
NEWS
AGENDA
18 WOW TEAM 20 WOW CONTRIBUTORS 21 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 204 TERMINOLOGY 208 DIRECTORY
22 A FACE TO REMEMBER
28 SIT BACK & CROP TIGHT
Panerai’s exhibition paid tribute to its heritage while keeping a keen eye on the present
23 BEST OF THE BEST
The 2014 Grand Prix de Haute Horlogerie de Genève has opened up new award categories to reflect the everchanging horological landscape
COVER Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Ceramic Carbon
26 HYDRO HOROLOGIST
HYT signs exclusive partnership with Indonesia’s luxury watch leader, Time International
This issue, we take on photography that requires longer shutter release and how to properly crop an image
30 TALK THE TALK: GIULIO PAPI
The director of Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi maintains a strictly traditional philosophy on watchmaking processes
TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE ROYAL OAK CONCEPT SERIES CONTINUES TO PUSH THE BOUNDARIES OF AUDEMARS PIGUET SAVOIR-FAIRE. THIS CONCEPT GMT TOURBILLON, WITH DUAL TIME FUNCTION, FEATURES WHITE CERAMIC BEZEL, CROWN, PUSHER AND BRIDGE. NINE TIMES HARDER THAN STEEL, CERAMIC IS EXCEPTIONALLY DIFFICULT TO WORK, YET HERE IT IS FINELY BRUSHED AND POLISHED AS IF IT WERE PRECIOUS METAL. THE COMPLEX FORM OF THE CASE IS MILLED FROM A SOLID BLOCK OF TITANIUM. THE INDIVIDUAL FACETS ARE THEN MICRO SAND BLASTED TO ACHIEVE THE DISTINCTIVE MATT GRAINING. AUDACIOUS STYLING, PEERLESS CRAFTSMANSHIP.
ROYAL OAK CONCEPT GMT TOURBILLON IN TITANIUM, WHITE CERAMIC BEZEL.
PLAZA SENAYAN LEVEL 1 #125 TEL: (6221) 572 5759 PACIFIC PLACE GROUND FLOOR UNIT 12 A-B TEL: (6221) 5140 2776 PLAZA INDONESIA LEVEL 1 #165-168 TEL: (6221) 310 7715 PLAZA TUNJUNGAN 4 UPPER GROUND #14-16, SURABAYA TEL: (6231) 532 7991 AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM
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36 REPORTS 32 ARTISTIC CONNECTION Audemars Piguet partners up with the one and only Art Basel to initiate a rich dialogue between watchmaking and contemporary art
38 CARTIER WATCHMAKER
The Cartier name is synonymous with tradition, intense attention to detail and the height of French extravagance; the ultimate symbol of French luxury
41 MASTER OF MOVEMENT
Throughout its history, Cartier has remained faithful to its watchmaking pedigree. The Cartier complications follow the tradition closely
44 RETURN TO ANTIKYTHERA
The Antikythera was one of the earliest time keeping machines in human history. Resurrected by Hublot, the Antikythera once again prepares to conquer the world
48 WINNING STRIKE
This year, Hublot was named as the winner in the category of Best Striking Watch with its Classic Fusion Cathedral Turbillon Minute Repeater
52 PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES
TAG Heuer became the official partner for FIA Formula E, the world’s first fully electric racing championship
44
design a n d technology.
radiomir 1940 3 days automatic oro rosso (ref. 573)
Surabaya - Tunjungan Plaza IV – Tel. +62 31 532 79 91 Jakarta - Plaza Indonesia – Tel. +62 21 310 77 15; Plaza Senayan – Tel. +62 21 572 57 59 Download the Lay a r App t o d i s cov er n ew con t en t s .
INDONESIA’S PREMIER
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CONTENTS
64 WATCHES&WONDERS 2014 SPECIAL REPORT 57 DOUBLE DELIGHT
The 20th anniversary of A. Lange & Söhne’s most iconic watch kicked off with a special collection of five Lange 1s paired elegantly with a matching Little Lange 1
58 EXTREME HOROLOGY The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Self Winding Tourbillon Chronograph fuses high performance with high complication
59 UNCHARTED TERRITORY
Baume & Mercier moves it up a notch with the arrival of the handsome Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve watch
60 TRAVEL SMART
For those based far away from home or embarking on a leisure trip, the Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night presents a classy solution
61 SUBTLE APPROACH
The thought that IWC is going to introduce models for ladies again did not cross many people’s mind – not after all these years
62 FLORAL NOTES
With the Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater, the Grande Maison of Le Sentier continues to ensure that ladies are not left out of the haute horlogerie game
63 DRAMATIC EFFECT
For its sheer horological theatrics, Montblanc’s Metamorphosis II deserves a standing ovation
64 COMPLETE PACKAGE
Panerai unveiled a new movement, the Calibre P.4000, which is perfectly suited for the Radiomir 1940 collection
65 FINE ART
In the name of creativity and craftsmanship, Piaget releases a new ultra-thin skeletonised Altiplano, this time with champlevé enamel gold bridges
66 CRYSTAL CLEAR
The Richard Mille RM56-02 Sapphire Tourbillon hides no secrets because literally every single component can be seen, and from all angles
67 A FITTING HOMMAGE
This is the year of the Hommage for Roger Dubuis and the Geneva manufacture excites with an elegantly openworked high complication in the collection
68 BEYOND SKIN DEEP
60 70 TRIAL BY FIRE
If luxury is all about tactile quality, then Vacheron Constantin’s L’Empreinte du Dragon may very well be the last word in métiers d’art horology
Five things we learnt at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Feu enamelling workshop
69 REACH FOR THE STARS
Panerai shared the innermost secrets of its new Calibre P.4000 in a private workshop where connoisseurs were invited to disassemble and reassemble the movement
The latest poetic complication from Van Cleef & Arpels is an almanac of sorts as it displays the appearance of meteor showers 365 days a year
71 MICRO-ROTOR MASTER CLASS
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110 HIGHLIGHTS 74 AVIATION TRIBUTE
IWC pays tribute to the celebrated aviator and author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, and his fateful final flight
76 OFF TO THE DEEP END Breitling’s Superocean Chronograph Steelfish is built for the adventure seeker
78 TO THE LEFT
Whether you’re a leftie or a just a big fan of Panerai, the new left-handed Submersible checks all the right boxes
80 ARMED FORCES
106 A SPHERICAL WORLD
A distillation of Cartier’s watchmaking style, the Ballon de Cartier has unrelentingly marched forward on an incredible journey to success
With the Bell & Ross WW2 Military Tourbillon, Bell & Ross juxtaposes haute horlogerie with military might
110 DEFINING TRADITION
82 THE GIFT OF TIME
114 QUEST FOR HYBRIDISATION
With the festive season here now, time is on your side. We give you 10 good reasons to buy a new watch by the end of 2014
The IWC Portofino has been an expression of understatement and good taste for 30 years
HYT finally succeeds in crafting a movement out of machinery and liquid; A fantastical concept bordering on science fiction
INDONESIA’S PREMIER
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CONTENTS
167 FEATURES COLOUR ME COMPLICATED
Tourbillons, carrousels, perpetual calendars, minute repeaters… This is haut de gamme watchmaking at its best
120 HIDDEN ABILITY
Levers masquerading as lugs, crowns doubling up as pushers, and function control bezels are some key examples of ingenious case design, but hidden activators are by no means novel
130 A QUESTION OF CALIBRE
An in-house movement isn’t necessarily superior to one that’s sourced externally because quality stems from inherent virtues, not just production origin
138 TOURBILLONS BY SJX
WOW collaborates with eminent horology blogger WatchesBySJX in this one-of-a-kind photo spread showcasing some of the most fabled tourbillon watches in modern watchmaking
146 HIGH TIME
Manufactures develop diffusion lines in a bid to offer watch buyers better quality and performance without losing their base audience
155 OF SPEED & TIME
Wear a watch that matches the kind of car you drive – WOW short lists five categories
178 THE FAR SIDE OF COOL
You’re not really a hipster if you don’t own a vintage typewriter, a fixed gear bicycle, a pair of thick-rimmed glasses, and a mechanical watch – preferably by a non-mainstream brand
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196 INTERVIEW FOR A GREATER GOOD
Omega CEO Stephen Urquhart reveals that the brand’s product development outside of its core business seeks a deeper purpose than short-term publicity or profits
200 EVENTS 199 FOR CONNOISSEURS ONLY
The A. Lange & Söhne Connoisseurs’ Akadamie returns to indulge collectors in a one-of-a-kind watchmaking experience
200 HIGH FLYER
Breitling takes stock of its Chronomat collection with an exhibition, as it celebrates its own 130 th anniversary
201 HAPPY CAMPER
Tudor and The Hour Glass jointly launch the Heritage Ranger in Singapore with a ranger-themed cocktail event
202 HOUSE OF CARTIER nd
Cartier Unveiled its 2 Boutique in Indonesia at Plaza Senayan
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ASIAN EDITIONS SUMMER 2014
EARTH, MOON AND SÖHNE ISSUE 4
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$50 #4 SUMMER 2014
A. Lange & Söhne Breaks New Ground in Haute Horlogerie
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INDONESIA’S
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CONTRIBUTORS
SU JIA XIAN
ARVADA HARADIRAN
Watch Specialist
Contributing Managing Editor
Jia Xian has had a keen interest in horology from a young age. Known throughout the watch industry, he is a prolific contributor to over a dozen publications across Asia, and blogs about watches frequently on his own blog, watchesbySJX.com. His contribution to this issue of WOW includes the story on watches with hidden activators, third party movement sources, diffusion lines in brands, and a stunning photo gallery featuring eight iconic tourbillon watches.
A seasoned media professional, Arvada Haradiran has worked for various magazines in various topics both in and outside of Indonesia. His interest in watches began at an early age when his father gave him his first Seiko mechanical watch and schooled him on the brand’s importance in the watchmaking world. Since then, he has taken a delight in collecting and learning about the hundreds of thousands of watches and meeting fellow watch enthusiasts.
YANNI TAN
JOSHUA YAP
Writer/Editor
Contributing Editor
A foodie and avid traveller who is always on the go, Yanni’s passion for the best things in life is matched only by her love for sparkling gemstones. With a unique perspective on jewellery and how to appreciate it, she highly recommends being more experimental with precious stones. Indeed, exploring the lesser known stones is one of her top tips for the budding jewellery aficionado. Lending her expertise to WOW and associate publication, WOW Jewellery, Yanni shares her thoughts about the new Jaquet Droz stone dial collection in this issue.
Joshua admittedly wasn’t inducted into the world of watches (pun not intended) by choice, but he was smitten by its mechanical wonders in no time. Although he personally favours modestly sized, no-nonsense timepieces, he sometimes misses the outrageous mindbogglers of the pre-Credit Crunch years. As he dreams of owning a modern haute horlogerie watch one day, he’s currently content scouring the Internet for vintage value buys.
PUBLISHER’S NOTE
HERE TO STAY M
echanical watches have remained popular throughout the centuries and well into the digital age because of their craftsmanship and superior quality. Though we might all be extremely attached to our cameras, smart phones, computers, or tablets, there is just something charming about owning something analogue. Watch buyers accept that they’re paying tens of thousands of dollars for what went into making their watch because they expect it to last. It takes master watchmakers months and sometimes years to create the elaborate interior mechanisms that make collectors’ watches so special, such as split-second chronographs and perpetual calendars. And never underestimate the power of history and nostalgia. Watch brands recognize that although people no longer necessarily wear wrist watches to tell the time, the watch can still be a symbol of something more personal. A smart watch is a gadget for tech-savvy consumers who tend to follow the trends and wish to make their lives more productive or interesting by strapping on a device that is less like a watch and more like a computer. It is supposed to be an extension of your digital self and integrates with social media and news, which probably in the long run will annoy people more than it will be of use. Once the app craze is over, however, most people will probably return to to buying what they were familiar with in the beginning: a traditional luxury watch. Plus, if you buy a smart watch, it will quickly become obsolete once the next generation is released.
A luxury watch (usually) is only made to do one thing - act as a timepiece. As a timepiece, a watch could provide the time of day, date, day of the week, and host a set of functions such as a timer, chronograph, and alarm. Complicated movements tend to add to a watch’s prestige and value due to the complex mechanism that is added on top of the standard date-time, such as a repeater, Tourbillon, or lunar phase complication. Luxury watches are dedicated to the art of horology - the art of fine watchmaking. Though there are complicated movements to keep the industry interesting, it is the unchanging, traditional aspect of some of the most revered brands that reverberate across generations, which makes the luxury watches truly timeless. On the other hand, high-end watchmakers could still compete with mass-market watch brands, which sell timepieces at similar price points, by holding onto this timeless quality that their brands are known for. Will “smart” wristwatches be able to completely replace luxury watches in the foreseeable future? We seriously doubt it. They both fall in very different, distinct categories. However this question is a bit like asking if Tesla is cutting into Ferrari’s market share. People who can afford the more expensive one will probably buy both. One thing is for sure though, the classic wristwatch has lasted this long, and it is not going anywhere. That said, we hope you enjoy this stunning year-end issue we had put together especially for you - our dear readers. Have a great holiday and a wonderful new year. Cheers! Tony Sumarno, publisher
WOW FESTIVE 2014 | 21
NEWS
A FACE TO REMEMBER Panerai’s exhibition paid tribute to its heritage while keeping a keen eye on the present WORDS JAMIE TAN
F
rom 25 June to 1 July, Panerai held The Face of Time exhibition at the atrium of ION Orchard. The exhibition showcased the manufacture’s 2014 novelties, as well as iconic timepieces from different points of its history. The exhibition’s name refers to Panerai’s watch dial, which has remained unchanged since 1936. Barring minor variations, the dial is consistent across Panerai’s core collections, which have been reclassified according to their cases this year: Radiomir, Radiomir 1940, Luminor 1950, and Luminor. In keeping with the theme, a gigantic dial on the floor of the exhibition space also formed its centrepiece. Apart from its timepieces, Panerai had also arranged for other aspects of the brand to be featured. A watchmaker from the manufacture was on hand to give live demonstrations and talk shop with visitors within a specially designated area. There was also a special display explaining the making of a ceramic Luminor case. Also of note was Panerai’s flagship ION Orchard boutique, which is the first flagship to launch the manufacture’s new design concept in Asia Pacific. The simple interior of the boutique mirrors classic Italian design, inspired by Panerai’s Florentine origins.
22 | WOW FESTIVE 2014
NEWS
BEST OF THE BEST Into its 14th year, the 2014 Grand Prix de Haute Horlogerie de Genève has opened up new award categories to more accurately reflect the ever-changing horological landscape WORDS CELINE YAP
H
orology’s biggest night is undoubtedly the Grand Prix de Haute Horlogerie de Genève, where all the best marques in European watchmaking gather at the Geneva Grand Theatre to revel in their best endeavours over the past year. This year’s prize giving ceremony takes place on 31 October and naturally, all of the industry’s VIPs, head honchos, and business directors will be in attendance. As with every edition, the winner of the last Aiguille d’Or will join the current jury in nominating the laureates. The watch that won the Aiguille d’Or in 2013 is Girard-Perregaux’s Constant Escapement LM. Therefore, product development director Stefano Macaluso will join the 2014 official jury. This year’s Grand Prix had also evolved a fair bit in terms of the award categories. In 2013, there were 14 main categories: Aiguille d’Or, Grande Complication, Ladies’ Complications, Ladies’ Watch, Men’s Complications, Men’s Watch, Innovation, Jewellery Watch, Artistic Crafts Watch, Sports Watch, Petite Aiguille, Revival, Horological
WOW FESTIVE 2014 | 23
NEWS
NOMINEES of the 2014 Grand Prix de Haute Horlogerie de Genève – get the full list on www.gphg.org
Men’s Watch: Chopard L.U.C 1963
Revelation, and Special Jury. There was also a Public Prize open to online voting by the public, bringing up the total number of award categories to 15. Of the 15, six – Grande Complication, Ladies’ Complication, Men’s Complications, Innovation, Revival, and Horological Revelation – will no longer be presented. Ostensibly, this year’s award categories will be more coherent. In addition to the prizes for Aiguille d’Or and Special Jury, there will be prizes for Men’s Watch, Chronograph, Tourbillon Watch, Calendar Watch, Striking Watch, Sports Watch, Ladies’ Watch, Ladies’ High-Mech, Jewellery Watch, Artistic Crafts Watch, Mechanical Exception, and Petite Aiguille. Reflecting the current horological landscape, there is better variation for ladies’ watches – with three different categories – and specific categories for different types of high complications. The addition of the Mechanical Exception category hints towards a more consolidated approach for traditional grande complications and futuristic, state-of-the-art high watchmaking. This list of entries is the show’s most diverse yet, with entries ranging from the Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater and Blancpain Moon Phases Carrousel to Hublot MP-05 La Ferrari 50 Days Power Reserve and TAG Heuer’s Monaco V4 Tourbillon. The diversity, however, isn’t restricted to the award for Mechanical Exception. This is observed across all categories, which makes the 2014 Grand Prix de Haute Horlogerie de Genève all the more exciting. Here are some of the most eminent competitors. For a complete list and more information, visit www.gphg. org. All of the nominated watches will be part of a travelling exhibition beginning in September in New Delhi, followed by Beijing, then Geneva in time for the prize giving ceremony, and finally London.
24 | WOW FESTIVE 2014
Chronograph: Omega Dark Side Of The Moon
Tourbillon Watch: Blancpain 12 Day One Minute Flying Tourbillon
Calendar Watch: Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar
NEWS
Sports Watch: Zenith El Primero Lightweight
Mechanical Exception: Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater
Striking Watch: Breguet Classique La Musicale
LAUREATES OF THE 2013 GRAND PRIX DE HAUTE HORLOGERIE DE GENÈVE “Aiguille d’Or” Grand Prix: Girard-Perregaux, Constant Escapement L.M. Grande Complication Prize: A. Lange & Söhne, 1815 Rattrapante Perpetuel Calendar Ladies’ Complications Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée Ladies’ Watch Prize: DeLaneau, Rondo Translucent Champagne
Artistic Craft Watch: Hermès Arceau Millefiori
Ladies’ Watch: Baume & Mercier Promesse Emblematic Piece Diamonds 34mm
Ladies’ High-Mech: Louis Vuitton Tambour Monogram
Men’s Complications Watch Prize: Romain Gauthier, Logical One Men’s Watch Prize: Voutilainen, V-8R Innovation Prize: Vianney Halter, Deep Space Tourbillon Jewellery Watch Prize: Chopard, L’Heure du Diamant Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Chanel, Mademoiselle Privé Camélia Brodé Sports Watch Prize: Zenith, El Primero Stratos Flyback Stricking 10th “Petite Aiguille” Watch Prize: Habring2, Jumping Second Pilot Revival Prize: Tudor, Heritage Black Bay Horological Revelation Prize: Ressence, Type 3 Special Jury Prize: Philippe Dufour Public Prize: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Perpetuel Calendar
WOW FESTIVE 2014 | 25
NEWS
HYDRO HOROLOGIST HYT signs exclusive partnership with Indonesia’s luxury watch leader, Time International. WORDS GILANG PRATAMA
L
aunched in 2012, the Hydro Mechanical Horologists revolutionised the watchmaking industry with its gamechanging fluid technology that merges mechanics and liquid in a timepiece to tell the time. Deservedly, it won the 2012 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prize as the Best innovative Watch Concept (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve). Two years and more than 50 points of sale worldwide later, HYT successfully opened its first subsidiary in Singapore and concluded its first partnership in Asia with the luxury watch retail giant, Time International. HYT CEO Vincent Perriard said, “We are delighted to be partnering with Time International. We are familiar with Time International’s operations even before the genesis of HYT and can testify to the quality and integrity of the brand. Danny is also a good friend and there is no one I would rather do business with in Indonesia.“ Irwan Danny Mussry, President and CEO of Time International, added, “We are very particular about which brands we represent, but HYT was an obvious choice for us. We admire the revolution they have brought to the watch industry and know they have much more in store for us. In the meantime, they are producing technical masterpieces that we are very happy to be retailing.”
HYT H2 in Gold
26 | WOW FESTIVE2014
HYT presentation by Vincent Perriard
NEWS
Ion Schiau & Omamgbe Ikpa
Vincent Perriard, Patrick Berdoz & Irwan Danny Mussry
HYT Indonesia launching event
Sugiarto Santoso
HYT H1 and H2
Vincent Perriard, Reiko Barack, Rosano Barack, Patrick Berdoz & Irwan Danny Mussry
WOW FESTIVE 2014 | 27
AGENDA
SIT BACK & CROP TIGHT
A vintage JaegerLeCoultre Reverso with various backdrops to complement the theme of the watch
This issue, we take on photography that requires longer shutter release and how to properly crop an image WORDS KELVIN TAN
T
o get the best images, we should consider the concept or theme presented by the timepiece. For example, when you see a vintage gold JaegerLeCoultre Reverso, photos of this timepiece should complement its elegant and dressy nature. In my examples, I’ve used backdrops like silk ties, pocket squares or a fountain pen to frame the shot. Try to select colourful fabrics in order to allow the yellow tone of the gold case pop and draw the viewer’s attention. Also, I have chosen to bounce the flash off the walls. If you would recall, bouncing the flash off a white wall or ceiling will make your light source (in this case, the flash) larger. Large light sources or the natural light of a sunny sky will make lighting more even and soft. Such light is flattering in nature and will make the subject more pleasing to the eye. It is also crucial to ensure that your shots don’t end up with unsightly reflections of the ceiling lamps or even your own reflection on the watch’s polished surfaces like its crystal or case. This might be difficult, but using a polarised filter can help in reducing all reflections on the crystal. Here, I’ve done two images for comparison. First, we have a Sarpaneva Korona K0 Wuoksi, and then, we have a close-up shot of the same watch. In the second, I decided to go closer and draw the viewer to the main detail of the product, which is the face of its emblematic moon. The eyes of the moon are highlighted in my photo, thus offering the
USING A POLARISED FILTER CAN HELP IN REDUCING REFLECTIONS ON THE CRYSTAL 28 | WOW FESTIVE 2014
Accidental angle – changing the angle of the camera and the flash can yield unexpectedly good results
AGENDA
Jaeger-LeCoultre Deepsea Alarm shot in three distinct ways to reflect different moods
shot offers something more mysterious and becomes more interesting. Mood and story ideas tend to make your images more interesting. Looking at the three images of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deepsea Alarm, we can see what difference they make. The first, again, is typical shot, which is useful to show all parts of the watch succinctly. However, to add visual interest, you can choose to do a wrist shot. It gives viewers a sense of scale. Finally, the third shot of the Deepsea highlights its Super-LumiNova. To achieve this, you first need a UV light source to charge up the markers. There are many ways to do this, but for a simple version, you will need to take two shots. With the camera on a tripod, take one shot of the dial with the available light. Subsequently, charge up the Super-LumiNova and take another shot with short exposure. Then, layer the second image over the first during post-production. We will discuss this in greater detail in the next issue. One final bit of advice here: With digital cameras, always feel free to experiment with lens and flash angles – you never know what gems you can end up with.
Going in close for details to highlight the concept behind the timepiece
viewer a close up appreciation of this element. I’ve mentioned before that even lighting is better for shooting, but should you decide to get creative, feel free. Look at the photos of the Seiko Presage. One is a typical shot, but then I decided to lower the camera angle and turn my flash to bounce off a ceiling. Due to the angle of the light, only the Seiko emblem is illuminated, along with some details shown on the markers and hands. Arguably, the second
MOOD AND STORY IDEAS TEND TO MAKE YOUR IMAGES MORE INTERESTING
WOW FESTIVE 2014 | 29
AGENDA
GIULIO PAPI The director of Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi maintains a strictly traditional philosophy on watchmaking processes even as some of the most state-of-theart creations emerge from these very workshops INTERVIEWED BY CELINE YAP
“O
ver the last four years, we worked hard on increasing reliability. From a rate of 15 per cent returns in after-sales, we reached 1.8 per cent. We spent a lot of time and money just to improve reliability and now, we are ready to propose other novelties because it’s not reasonable to propose novelties that are not reliable novelties. Apart from that, we spent a lot of time optimising industrialisation of the AP escapement. It’s a goal for us. The AP escapement gives the ChronAP a precision level of just four seconds deviation per week. Why not industrialise it for all of Audemars Piguet’s watches? Yes, but it’s not easy. Making watches or spare parts by hand is not
OUR MISSION IS TO MAKE HIGH QUALITY WATCHES WITH HIGH PERFORMANCE. IT’S COMMON SENSE! a problem, but industrialising a component is another challenge altogether. By hand, you can make very complex details on the parts, but with machines, everything needs to be simplified. You must understand that we have a total of 700 different engineering parameters for the AP escapement. If we make a change to just one, others might be dramatically affected. We have to understand and manage everything to keep the most important parameters. We also make it a point to use traditional CNC machining, without inventing special machines to produce the AP escapement. Audemars Piguet doesn’t want to use LIGA; it’s a philosophy. For most, using LIGA is a dream
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because it’s so easy to quickly have good results. But that’s precisely why Audemars Piguet doesn’t want it. We want to propose to our customers a mechanism that works well the traditional way, which means we have to think of creative ways to use traditional materials. With LIGA, also, you can only use nickel. Well, we’ve found a laboratory that can produce for us gold components using LIGA so if we can find a way to use them, it would be a great achievement. For our complications, like minute repeaters, our approach is the same. We use the traditional anchor governor to keep the mechanism silent although we modify its shape. We’re getting good results, but we will continue to improve it because we have to check how many times it works before the performance begins to decrease. If everything is good, we might be able to implement this anchor in all our minute repeaters. I would say
we are very near to the goal. I know there are some collectors who don’t want a silent anchor, and who actually like the buzzing sounds from the governor. So at Audemars Piguet, we will have two systems, a noisy one and a silent one. “We want to bring good solutions to watchmaking. That is the motivation behind our AP escapement because it doesn’t need lubrication and works with less energy. With it, we can increase frequency and keep the same amount of energy. We are also studying a new theory on the tooth profile of pinions. With this, we save almost 20 per cent of energy and we retain a very flat transmission of torque. Like our Concept watches, we want to propose new ways to make a watch, to manipulate the watch, and to perceive the watch. It is also for us to explore new materials. Our mission is to just make high quality watches with high performance. It’s common sense!”
AIGNER SPECIAL
RUGGED ATTIRE Bold. Sturdy. Sophisticated. Neat. Masculine. These are all traits that the Aigner Palermo aims to exude with its newest piece, a chronographic offering that is wrapped in the vogue of gun metal. WORDS GILANG PRATAMA
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he case features the daring, iconic, arched horseshoe of the Aigner label blended seamlessly with the rugged rubber strap. The layered dial adds an exciting visual for all to see, while the layout of the face breaks down the elements in easy-to-read configurations. Hours, minutes and seconds; all are displayed prominently and makes glancing at its multifaceted body an
enjoyable affair. All of the instruments are intertwined and secured with two screws at 4 and 8 o’clock, while a small date display appears at 6 o’clock. With a bold 40 mm X 50,5 mm stainless steel case and equipped with 5 ATM water resistance, the Aigner Palermo chronograph will be sure to attract attention when you most seek it.
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ARTISTIC CONNECTION Audemars Piguet partners up with the one and only Art Basel to initiate a rich dialogue between watchmaking and contemporary art WORDS CELINE YAP
More than 300 galleries from all over the world gather at the one and only Art Basel
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esseplatz in Basel, Switzerland, is a familiar stomping ground for many in the watchmaking industry, but its cavernous halls aren’t only meant for grandiose watch pavilions. Every autumn, it provides the venue for Auto Basel and in the summer, it welcomes the biggest names in the art and design world. Art Basel exhibits here every June, after Hong Kong in May, before it moves on to Miami Beach in December. As you may imagine, this world’s-most-comprehensive contemporary art show attracts everyone who is someone in the art and design world. Buyers and sellers, painters and sculptors, performers and spectators, etc. Art Basel is unquestionably about art – more specifically, contemporary art – and that’s why it is not at all surprising to find an Audemars Piguet pavilion beaming amid the plethora of artworks, from the meditative to the outrageous.
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This is the second year that Audemars Piguet has chosen to be a part of the show. The manufacture debuted its connection with the art world at the previous Art Basel, inaugurating this partnership with a spectacular pavilion designed by Dan Holdsworth to evoke the nature of the thick Le Brassus woodlands. Its dalliance with contemporary art, though, began a little bit further back, right about the time then-CEO Georges-Henri Meylan identified the Royal Oak as a contemporary icon worthy of celebration. Says marketing director of Audemars Piguet, Tim Sayler, “We had quite a lot of partnerships and links with the world of contemporary art before, but they were executed on a more local level.” Those familiar with the manufacture’s popularity with Hollywood and Broadway stars might remember well the Tony Awards Royal Oak clocks designed by A-list celebrities for charity auction.
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ART BASEL IS UNQUESTIONABLY ABOUT ART, BUT SPECIFICALLY, CONTEMPORARY ART AND THAT’S WHY IT’S NOT AT ALL SURPRISING TO FIND AN AUDEMARS PIGUET PAVILION NESTLED AMID THE PLETHORA OF ARTWORKS, FROM THE MEDITATIVE TO THE OUTRAGEOUS
Unlimited is an exhibition platform for projects that transcend the limitations of an art-show stand
Every artistic medium is represented at Art Basel, not just paintings and sculptures
He continues, “Eventually, we felt it was time to step it up and partner with a global fair. Art Basel is the leading global fair in contemporary art, so it was the one for us. But the catalyst for this entire project really was our Royal Oak exhibition in 2012, which was staged in Singapore’s Old Tanjong Pagar railway station. There, we exhibited 40 years of the Royal Oak and it was the first time we’ve worked on such a scale with artists. It was a great success on many levels. We felt immediately it was the right style and language to tell our brand story.” Representatives of Art Basel also attended that exhibition and, upon seeing what ambitions Audemars Piguet has for watches and contemporary art, they were absolutely convinced a partnership was in order. Audemars Piguet had previously worked with three artists – Sebastien Leon Agneessens, Quayola, and Dan Holdsworth – in a design, photography, and videography exhibition. Sensing a strong wave of chemistry with the contemporary art world, the manufacture strengthened the link by furthering its search for emerging artists with a common viewpoint to collaborate with. This was how they found Mathieu Lehanneur, designer of the Audemars Piguet pavilion at the
Audemars Piguet’s 2012 exhibition, 40 Years of the Royal Oak, was the catalyst for its dalliance with the contemporary art world
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SENSING A STRONG WAVE OF CHEMISTRY WITH THE CONTEMPORARY ART WORLD, THE MANUFACTURE STRENGTHENED THE LINK BY FURTHERING ITS SEARCH FOR EMERGING ARTISTS WITH A COMMON VIEWPOINT TO COLLABORATE WITH. 2014 Art Basel, and Kurt Hentschläger, who choreographed a unique video tapestry of Audemars Piguet’s spiritual core, the Vallée de Joux (below). The concept ‘nature meets technology’ is central to Audemars Piguet, and indeed, the watchmaking community at large. As the person in charge of this project, Sayler’s only request for the artists is that they find inspiration from the aforementioned concept and use different means to interpret it. This was exactly what Lehanneur achieved with his ‘Mineral Lab’ idea for the pavilion.
Marketing director of Audemars Piguet, Tim Sayler
The collaboration with Audemars Piguet brought Lehanneur to Le Brassus for the first time. Discovering that the rocky mountain landscape gave the community iron, with which stainless steel can be made and used to craft watches, Lehanneur was deeply amazed. This juxtaposition between raw nature and fine timepieces provided the backbone of his design for Audemars Piguet. Tracing this journey of discovery with Audemars Piguet, Lehanneur enthused: “The first thing on my mind was to find a way to express the natural context of the Vallée de Joux. I wanted to show the big contrast between raw nature and sophisticated watches because in the Vallée you have all these rugged mountains around and also all the white, clean workshops with all the
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watchmakers who are totally focused on the work. There is also a clear contrast between tiny watch components and huge elements of nature. In the end, I decided to find a way to build the rocks of the Vallée de Joux.” Realising he needed a way to produce perfect replicas of those rocks, Lehanneur sent a team of technicians to the Vallée. The mission was to fabricate silicon moulds of the rocks of the Vallée. They placed skins of silicon over the rocks, allowed them to set, peeled them off, and
LEHANNEUR SHOWED THE BIG CONTRAST BETWEEN RAW NATURE AND SOPHISTICATED WATCHES WITH HIS DESIGN FOR THE AUDEMARS PIGUET PAVILION AT THIS YEAR’S ART BASEL
Lehanneur’s design for Audemars Piguet at the 2014 Art Basel
Exploring the concept of contrasts, the pavilion juxtaposed sleek glass panels with raw, elemental rocks
voila! Placed all around the pavilion, there was even one suspended from the ceiling in a bid to throw off one’s sense of gravity – there is art in the air, literally, at Art Basel. Lehanneur had never used this technique in his creations until now. He describes, “We were simply looking for a way to reproduce the rocks. I notice how archaeologists obtain prints of fossils using this technique, so I figured why not try it. It was perfect. I might use it in the future, but only where it makes sense. My work as a designer is to find new ways of working in the right context.” The other part of Lehanneur’s plan was the watchmaking element. “The idea was to blend nature with watchmaking’s minuscule objects in order to express a laboratory ambience,” he explains. Working
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Audemars Piguet exhibited all of the most iconic Royal Oak Offshores since 1993
WORKING VERY CLOSELY WITH AUDEMARS PIGUET, LEHANNEUR CREATED A VITRINE THAT EXHIBITS THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN ROCKS, WHICH CONTAIN IRON WHICH IN TURN IS AN ESSENTIAL COMPONENT IN STAINLESS STEEL, AND BEAUTIFULLY CRAFTED TIMEPIECES
with Audemars Piguet very closely on this one, Lehanneur created a vitrine that exhibits the relationship between rocks, which contain iron which in turn is an essential component in stainless steel, and beautifully crafted timepieces. Of course, the Audemars Piguet pavilion wouldn’t be complete without the heart and soul of its existence: The watches. Honouring its core is a major raison d’être, Sayler elaborates, “We want watchmaking to inspire the art collecting audience. Each year, we create a specific exhibition of vintage and iconic watches, and in 2014 we have showcased an Offshore retrospective.” Earlier in the year, Audemars Piguet had released a new line of Offshores with subtle revisions: Refined edges, open case back, improved technical features. A total of 40 Offshores were on display, charting the journey of this sporting icon since its inception in 1993. “We also have a few historical watches to show the origins of the brand,” Sayler adds.
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Mathieu Lehanneur
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PROVING THAT AUDEMARS PIGUET HAS A CONTEMPORARY EDGE, EVERYTHING AT THE PAVILION IS ABOUT HERITAGE, BUT IT LOOKS RESOLUTELY MODERN AND NOT AT ALL OLD. THIS IS WHAT MAKES AUDEMARS PIGUET DIFFERENT FROM OTHER MANUFACTURES
Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Tourbillon
Royal Oak Offshore End Of Days
Royal Oak Offshore Survivor
Audemars Piguet’s Art Basel pavilion brings everything central to its existence – from the past to the present, the minuscule and the magnificent, what’s natural and what’s created by human hands – into the elegant confines of just 150 sqm. Yet, each individual element is laid out clearly for all to see. To this end, Sayler summarises it best: “Our efforts here prove that we have a really contemporary edge. Obviously Audemars Piguet has an amazing heritage, history, and tradition. These are really important to us, as we respect and are inspired by them. But we don’t pretend it’s still 1845. We want to tell our story in a contemporary way. This is the key message people can get when they see us here. Everything here is about heritage, but how does it look? Absolutely modern. Not a dusty old museum. That’s exactly what makes AP different.”
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CARTIER THE WATCHMAKER The Cartier name is synonymous with tradition, intense attention to detail and the height of French extravagance; the ultimate symbol of French luxury. Its watchmaking pedigree and spirited innovation makes it one of the finest watchmakers to ever exist. WORDS ARVADA HARADIRAN
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o the average layperson, the name “Cartier” might draw up images of haute joaillerie, an association to haute couture and perhaps even a hint of aspiration to own one of its products one day. These are all valid of course. But to watch enthusiasts everywhere, the name means more than just a luxury brand that people clamor for. No, a Cartier watch is truly something special and deserves a place in the annals of haute horlogerie. Fans will fondly recite pedigree stories and how Cartier helped shape the watchmaking world, and trade endless photos of their Tanks with one another. Cartier’s reverence as one of the finest watchmakers in the world is well deserved. Since the founding of the Maison in 1847, the company has always kept watchmaking squarely in their sight, and stayed true to this pedigree until today. Cartier, as one of the luminaries of the early 20th century, was among the first watchmakers to have recognised the future direction of the watch industry - and thus led the revolution of the wrist watch with the introduction of the first practical wristwatch, the Santos. The appearance of this watch revolutionized the industry and propelled innovation in the watchmaking world, which has brought us many of today’s conveniences and standard features in wristwatches. A Cartier watch is instantly recognisable at first glance, as it will usually reflect a simple but stylish aesthetic, geometric but soft, and always elegant. And with a collection made up of over 30 Manufacture movements, Cartier watchmaking is a force to be reckoned with.
Santos wristwatch, Cartier, Paris, 1916
THE SANTOS WATCH In 1904, Cartier made a major breakthrough in the watchmaking world by creating one of the first practical wristwatches. It is presented to Louis Cartier’s Brazilian friend, pioneer aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to be able to tell the time without having to fumble for the pocket watch. At that time, the pocket watch was the de facto time-telling machine. The Santos was Cartier’s first men’s wristwatch, and thus, the watch became an accessory that was visible to all; displayed on the wrist, a jewel that was the result of high quality craftsmanship and serious engineering. With its geometric form, rounded corners, and harmoniously shaped joints that converge towards the strap, the Santos watch represents an early expression of the Art Deco style. It is a truly masculine timepiece, with visible screws, raised bezel and ridged bracelet.
THE TANK WATCH
Tank Watch, Case of polished and satin-finish gold, brancards of polished and satinfinish platinum
The next evolution from the groundbreaking Santos watch, the Tank features joints built into the case, and, in a stroke of stylistic genius, a shape that is both a square and a rectangle – making the Tank one of the most iconic and revered watches in history. Legend has it that Louis Cartier designed the watch in 1917, based on the horizontal section of the Renault military tanks, and presented the first prototype of the Tank watch to General John Pershing, commander of the American Expeditionary Force in Europe during World War I. Today, the Tank watch still boasts that pedigree. Timeless yet ahead of its time, the Tank watch is a great classic that has conveyed a real sense of modernity from the outset. Its design made a clean break with the conventions of the time, which favor twirls and twists, and instead emphasize clean functionality with its famous sharp-edged flat vertical sidepieces. Clean, yet still oh-so-bespoke. Worn by everyone from Elton John to Princess Diana, and from Indian princes to film stars, the Tank, like its name, is a haute horlogerie heavyweight.
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Ballon Bleu de Cartier 39 mm Flying Tourbillon Watch, enamel dial, Calibre 9452 MC
THE BALLON BLEU DE CARTIER WATCH First coming into life in 2007, the Ballon bleu de Cartier has been touted as the Maison’s conscious – and earnest – earlier foray into reinvigorating its brand. The Ballon’s curious shape stems from the soft curves reminiscent of a pebble and a case that is rounded on both sides. The glass magnifies the numbers and distorts time (in a visually pleasing way), while a winding mechanism decorated with a sapphire cabochon, around which the dial orbits, is protected by an arch in precious metal. A blue enamel dial adds signature and completes the beautiful façade. The style is somewhere between classic and futuristic. The Ballon Bleu de Cartier 39 mm Flying Tourbillon watch features Calibre 9452 MC, which is an in-house movement assembled and adjusted in the Cartier workshop in Geneva. It is certified “Poinçon de Genève,” the ultimate distinction for a Manufacture movement.
Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire Watch Tourbillon complication, perpetual calendar with circular display, calibre 9459 MC
ROTONDE DE CARTIER The Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch tackles the classic perpetual calendar conundrum by blowing up, instead of hiding, its central complication smack dab in the middle of the face. Dubbed the “amphitheatre”, the display of the perpetual calendar's functions is arranged three-dimensionally in concentric levels, with the entire display of the perpetual calendar's functions is spread over different levels: the day is indicated on the first. It is followed by the month on the second, which is itself surmounted by the date. Thin windows
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move along these tiers. The perpetual calendar's final function is indicated by a hand located on the back of watch and shows what type of year it is: a leap year or a normal year. The Maison claims that the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire's display overcomes numerous readability issues that are specific to the traditional approach to this complication. At its heart, the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire watch houses a flying tourbillon, a complication that any wearer would be proud to show off to.
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MASTER OF MOVEMENT Throughout its history, Cartier has remained faithful to its watchmaking pedigree. And it should, considering the brand was once the captain of the nascent haute horlogerie industry in late 19th century. Today, the Cartier complications follow the tradition closely and seem more ready than ever to take over the fine watchmaking world by storm. WORDS ARVADA HARADIRAN
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he future looks bright at Cartier. The bespoke French luxury goods manufacturer has seen reinvigorated commitment of late in its watchmaking division to going back to its roots; that is, not only producing the Cartier movements, but also innovating and pushing the boundaries of watchmaking, as it has been since the founding of the House of Cartier. Since its early days, the Maison has always kept a close eye on haute horlogerie. Founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, in Paris, France, the young company would soon find itself supplying jewellry and fine watches that were not only luxurious, but also pushed the boundaries of timekeeping. The first watches appeared in Cartier’s archives in 1853, and included fob watches that were either sober or more colourful. At this time, the art of watchmaking was making great strides. Smaller sizes, simpler mechanisms, greater strength and reliability were achieved with movements that became smaller and smaller, and it led to the Maison presenting the pioneering aviator Santos-Dumont with its first wrist watch, the Santos, in 1904. However, watches featuring large movements were not overlooked. Functions were discussed, analyzed, and tackled, and solutions were explored in the same way that we explore the ocean, the sky, and time itself. In 1912, Cartier astonished the world with his creation of the first “Mystery Clocks” – a complication which feature a piece of rock crystal at their center and with hands that appear to float in midair. It went on to become one of the company’s most celebrated designs. This complication so impressed the experts at the time that they called the Mystery Clock, “miracles of watchmaking”.
SMALL CLOCKS: SOPHISTICATION AND COMPLICATION These beautiful decorative objects came in eye-catching shapes embodying Louis Cartier’s poetic vision, and combined exoticism and precision, like this 1930 “Chinoiserie” clock with minute repeater. Time is interpreted in the Oriental fashion, right down to the pushbutton in the shape of a Buddhist lion in jade on an onyx plate. The clock is like a picture, decorated with pearl-encrusted panels depicting Chinese scenes.
POCKET WATCHES: PRECISION, MINIATURISATION, COMPLICATION For the House of Cartier, watchmaking was and always is an exercise in style, creating a setting for time, as displayed by this pocket watch in crystal, platine and black enamel. A precision object, a piece of art, whose apparent simplicity disguises its complex mechanism. The audacious use of materials, the lightness of the guilloche detail, the luminous presence of a triangular ruby in the guise of a miniature hand, make this a truly modern object of the future.
WRISTWATCHES: THE MIRACLES OF WATCHMAKING, THE ART OF MECHANISMS A pretext for countless creations, the timepiece fired Louis Cartier’s imagination, and he devoted an entire workshop to watchmaking. He added a collection of clocks to his watches, and was particularly interested in the wristwatch. At the time, Edmond Jaeger, the luminary which went on to found Jaeger-LeCoultre, was one of the best watchmakers in Paris, and was passionate about extra-flat and complication movements. He became Cartier’s exclusive supplier of repeaters, chronographs, fly backs, perpetual calendars and other complications. This passionate collaboration between two highly talented artists spawned some incredible designs, each different, each reflecting a highly individual personality.
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POCKET WATCH CARTIER PARIS, 1919
Round case of polished platinum edged with rose-cut diamonds. Fluted winding crown on pendant. Grooved horseshoe pendant bow of polished platinum edged with rose-cut diamonds. Round grained-silver dial with Roman numerals ringed by a “railroad” minute track. Hands of blued steel. The back of the case engraved: coat of arms and motto “Scutum opponebat scutis”.
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EXTRA FLAT POCKET WATCH CARTIER PARIS, 1905 •
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Round gold case with dotted radial engineturned decoration and translucent green enamel; a blue enamel swirling leaf motif in the middle, ringed by wavy white enamel line. Bezel of a wavy line of white enamel. Fluted winding crown on pendant. Pendant bow of chased, polished gold with green and white enamel. Round silver dial with radial engine-turned decoration and Arabic numerals. Leaf hands of blued steel.
DESK CLOCK WITH MINUTE REPEATER CARTIER PARIS, 1930 •
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Rectangular base and top of polished onyx with rounded corners. Rectangular case, on the sides two plaques of laque burgauté (Tonquin laque) depicting Chinese scenes, with corners of rose-cut diamonds set in platinum; uprights of jade and gold; two bands of ribbed jade edged with red enamel. Back of black enamel. Repeater button in the form of a carved jade Fô dog with a ring of red enamel at the base. Rectangular dial of laque burgauté depicting a Chinese scene with mother-of-pearl Roman numerals and gold screws. Dragon-shaped hands of rose-cut diamonds set in platinum. 12.01 x 6.01 x 4.08 cm Sold to Mr Gustave Nobel.
MYSTERY POCKET WATCH CARTIER PARIS, 1931 •
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Square case of satin-finish platinum with cut corners, edged with fillets. Flat, notched, recessed winding crown on back at 12 o’clock. Round off-center dial of transparent crystal. Chapter ring of Roman numerals in black enamel. Pear hands of blued steel. A monogram “P.L.H.” engraved at the back of the case.
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Hublot oceanograpic exo4000
RETURN TO ANTIKYTHERA
The Antikythera mechanism is one of the most mysterious objects in the history of civilisation. Today, it is studied in great detail by the scientific community, but when it was first discovered back in 1901, its great historical and technical value remained a mystery to be uncovered. WORDS GILANG PRATAMA
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oday, a scientific expedition led by Brendan Foley (diver and archaeologist) is returning to the Antikythera site off the coast of Kythera to carry out a second historic dig, this time equipped with the latest generation dive suit designed for the extremes: The EXOSUIT, which is sporting Hublot colours for this special event. To support and mark this occasion, Mathias Buttet, Hublot R&D Director, attended the dives and presented the Oceanographic EXO4000 dive watch which is designed for extreme environments, and which pays tribute to the scientists involved in this incredible adventure.
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HUBLOT AND THE ANTIKYTHERA ADVENTURE Hublot has been involved with the Antikythera project since 2011, firstly by lending its support to an exhibition at the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris, then by partnering with the Archaeological Museum of Athens, which created the special Antikythera Room with a giant armoured, earthquake-resistant display case, manufactured in Switzerland to Hublot’s order, to showcase the remains of the mechanism. Alongside the remains of the mechanism, Hublot’s “Tribute to the Antikythera” watch is displayed amongst the other exhibits. This rebuilt, miniature movement adds a new time dimension to the Antikythera mechanism. The fragments of this “machine” were analysed in great detail, taking a multidisciplinary approach. This work enabled the complexity of this extraordinary mechanism to be better understood. We now know that this “astronomical instrument” dates from the 2nd century BCE (between 150 and 100 BCE). Originally, it served as a kind of calculator. Its bronze gear trains were housed in a wooden box measuring approximately 33 cm x 18 cm and its case was sealed with two bronze plaques covered with inscriptions. Only 82 fragments of this machine still remain, some minuscule, all corroded. They are now forever protected in the National Archaeological Museum of Athens. A state-ofthe-art tomography study has provided images which can be used both scientifically and archaeologically, revealing numerous internal gear trains which are invisible to the naked eye, toothed wheels and new inscriptions hidden under the concretions. Less than a quarter of the ancient Greek lettering of this text engraved on the machine has been successfully deciphered. It is believed to be a sort of instruction manual for the mechanical calculator, as well as thought to show the movement of some major planets. The gears were driven by what is believed to be a side handwheel but the possibility of an auxiliary hydraulic system has not been ruled out.
Tag Heuer Formulaof E A as fragment officialAntikythera timekeeper mechanism
Hublot Antikythera
ARCHAEOLOGICAL INSPIRATION In 2008, the revelation by the scientific journal, Nature, of tomographic analyses performed on the fragments of the machine certainly fuelled the imagination of several creative watchmakers. Mathias Buttet, current Director of R&D at the Hublot manufacture, wanted to pay homage to the historical legacy that this first mechanical masterpiece represents. A technical tribute and a miniature recreation of the entire Antikythera mechanism as revealed by scientific analysis, crafted to fit perfectly on the wrist. It is also a homage to watchmaking, as it adds a new dimension to this astronomical calculator: that of a timepiece in its own right, capable of accurately measuring the time. It is the first time in the history of watches that a watchmaking development office has taken direct inspiration in this way from an “archaeological” mechanism dating back to Antiquity. It is also the first time that a watchmaking team has worked hand in hand with a team of scientists bringing together leading international figures in archaeology, epigraphy and historians of mechanical engineering. The watchmakers helped the archaeologists better understand some gear trains and confirm some hypotheses relating to the mechanics, while the scientists shared with the watchmakers the technical solutions of lost fragments in Antiquity terms (in particular circular gears with non-linear cycles). This is the first time in the history of timepieces that these cycles, a legacy from Antiquity have been studied, reproduced and displayed mechanically: to create some of these gears, the Hublot team had to develop a highly innovative concept of non-circular telescopic hands, capable of pointing to the spiral discs of varying diameters. The Hublot “Antikythera” watch houses this watchmaking movement, a concept devised in Antiquity, and was presented during the Baselworld watch show in Spring 2012.
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REPORTS Brendan Foley with the Exosuit
A NEW GENERATION OF CUTTING-EDGE DIVE SUIT, AKIN TO A “SUBMARINE SUIT OF ARMOUR.” DEVELOPED IN THE US, THE SUIT ALLOWS THE DIVERARCHAEOLOGIST TO COMBINE THE FLEXIBILITY OF A DIVE SUIT WITH THE RESILIENCE OF A SUBMERSIBLE. KNOWN AS THE EXOSUIT, IT CAN BE USED TO DEPTHS OF 1,000 FEET (300 METRES). 46 | WOW FESTIVE 2014
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FUTURISTIC AQUALUNG Led by diver and archaeologist Brendan Foley, this expedition boasts a new generation of cutting-edge dive suit, akin to a “submarine suit of armour.” Developed in the US, the suit allows the diver-archaeologist to combine the flexibility of a dive suit with the resilience of a submersible. Known as the EXOSUIT, it can be used to depths of 1,000 feet (300 metres). Two metres in length, weighing 240 kilos and made entirely from aluminium alloy, the diving suit has water thrusters and 18 rotating joints, which make it relatively flexible. This allows it to combine mobility and resilience at depth. Carbon dioxide is chemically removed and oxygen is supplied according to the diver’s metabolism “at both working and resting rates”. With a maximum autonomy of 50 hours, it hugely expands the possibilities for exploration. With the atmosphere kept at normal pressure, the diver does not have to work with complex combinations of gases, as found in diving cylinders. Due to its advanced technology, this equipment carries a price tag of $1.3 million.
THE OCEANOGRAPHIC EXO4000 DIVE WATCH It took 18 months of research, development and tests throughout 2010 and 2011 before the first Oceanographic 4000 was unveiled at the Monaco Oceanographic Museum. Almost all the features of the Oceanographic EXO4000 are exceptional, in terms of design, development and
Hublot Antikythera event venue
manufacturing. Hublot has pushed boundaries to create a watch which is resistant to extreme pressure, as is often found at 4,000 metres. Starting with its water resistance, the watch is tested at the Hublot manufacture in a Roxer tank, submerged and pressurised to the equivalent of 5,000 metres. To ensure that the watch is water resistant and can withstand this pressure, it is equipped with a synthetic sapphire crystal 6.5 mm thick. This is thicker than normal, but is reasonable for this level of resistance. The case back is screw-down, essential for reaching such depths. It is made of grade 2 titanium, an extremely strong stainless material. Its case is made of titanium, a material prized for its extreme lightness and with technical features appropriate for the specifications, the Oceanographic EXO4000 is still light on the wrist - although its diameter of 48 mm and its volume are substantial. The dial, flange and hands of the Oceanographic have been optimised to have a larger surface area treated with SuperLuminova. The material ensured that the time and elapsed time measured by the flange are egible from a distance of 25 cm in the dark. The reading method has been made as safe as possible, using an internal rotating flange which is uni-directional and rack-driven, with a dive time indicator. The dive time indicator has been placed as close as possible to the dial, to minimise the risk of inadvertently altering the dive time. It also makes the dive time easier to read. In accordance with the standard, the Oceanographic 4000 has a minute scale on which the five-minute periods are clearly highlighted. The flange crown, which sets the dive time, is placed at the 2 o’clock position for easy access and more comfortable use. It is uni-directional, again for safety reasons, with a bayonet fitting, and protected by an oversized crown guard, for extra safety and easy operation when handling diving equipment. The second crown, for winding and setting the time and date, is positioned at 4 o’clock to avoid obstruction. Finally, the Oceanographic EXO4000 has a helium valve, a feature essential to any diving watch capable of descending to great depths. An essential feature for any serious diver, the helium valve allows gases that have infiltrated the watch during the descent to safely escape during the ascent in diving chambers. It is made from stainless steel, positioned at 10 o’clock, visible from the left-hand side lug. The creation of Oceanographic EXO4000 dive watch, and the The “Antikythera” concept has shown the world what Hublot is capable of. The brand has tirelessly sought to redefine and elevate its position in the world of horology.
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REPORTS
GPHG 2014 venue, The Geneva Grand Theatre
WINNING STRIKE For the last 14 years, Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve celebrated the craftmaship and the innovation of the watchmaking industry. Awards are given in various categories, and this year, Hublot was named as the winner in the category of Best Striking Watch with its Classic Fusion Cathedral Turbillon Minute Repeater. WORDS GILANG PRATAMA
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REPORTS
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his is the fourth time that Hublot has been awarded by the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. In 2005, the Hublot Big Bang won in the Best Design category, and in 2007, its “One Million Dollar Big Bang” was awarded for the Best High Jewellery category, followed by it succesor, the “One Million Dollar Black Caviar Band” for the same category in 2009. This year, Hublot’s “Classic Fusion Cathedral Minute Repeater” was awarded in The Best Striking Watch category. In this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve, Hublot was nominated for its three bold timepieces accross three categories: The MP-05 LaFerrari in the Mechanical Exception category, the Classic Fusion Cathedral Tourbillon Minute Repeater in the Striking category, and The Classic Fusion Pelé in the Sport category. These nominations show how innovation and development is the core of Hublot timepieces. “This prize is of huge value to us,” declared Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, CEO of Hublot, who attended Geneva’s Grand Theatre to receive the award. “I am extremely proud to receive it on behalf of Hublot, and for this watch in particular. Firstly because this watch represents the full quintessence of our brand: a stylish look with the immediately recognisable Hublot codes, but also its movement, developed and produced entirely in-house within our Complications workshop in our Manufacture. This award is also a recognition of our work and watchmaking know-how, which is constantly growing. We are a young and dynamic manufacture, already demonstrating the ability to develop and create magnificent complications like this one.
TClassic Fusion Cathedral Minute Repeater
Ricardo Guadalupe with GPHG trophy
IN THE 2014 GRAND PRIX D’HORLOGERIE DE GENEVE, HUBLOT WAS NOMINATED IN THREE CATEGORIES: THE MP-05 LAFERRARI IN THE MECHANICAL EXCEPTION CATEGORY, THE CLASSIC FUSION CATHEDRAL TOURBILLON MINUTE REPEATER IN THE STRIKING CATEGORY, AND THE CLASSIC FUSION PELÉ IN THE SPORT CATEGORY.
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REPORTS THE WINNING TIMEPIECE The Classic Fusion Cathedral Tourbillon Minute Repeater is Hublot’s second tourbillon minute repeater, housing a 100% Hublot manufacture movement with double cathedral chime. The timepiece is a proud product of Hublot’s consistent pursue of excellence, which now enables the company to design and produce its own movements. The brand has now unveiled its second minute repeater tourbillon movement. Perfectly combining a marvellous balance between classic style of major complication, a state-of-the-art watchmaking, and modern design of the Classic Fusion 45 mm case, the Classic Fusion Cathedral Tourbillon Minute Repeater is a fine example that demonstrates the principle of fusion between tradition and modernity.
HUB 8001 handwound mechanical movement
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Designed, developed and produced by the micromechanical engineers, mechanical engineers and watchmakers at Hublot, this new Grande Complication is the result of 24 months of Hublot’s research and development. Fully remodelled and optimised since its first edition appeared in 2010, every part of Tourbillon Minute Repeater retains all of Hublot’s DNA. The assembly of its 319 components – bridges, cams and springs, racks and hammers, gongs and snails, cage, wheels, jewels, and screws, which is a unique decorative element in itself, are beautifully complemented by the watch’s hands, which are red-gold or rhodium plated, identical with the case. The construction of the Classic Fusion Cathedral Tourbillon Minute Repeater requires a level of expertise possessed by only a small number of manufactures. One of the technical feats achieved on the Minute Repeater is the complete integration of the trigger piece in the lefthand bezel lug of the Classic Fusion’s case. This means it is no longer an appendage but rather a cleverly integrated function which results in a watch with a particularly harmonious appearance. The power of the double cathedral chime and the exceptional clarity of its tone has already brought it to the attention of connoisseurs. Finally, the Tourbillon Minute Repeater, which has a power reserve of 5 days, is waterresistant to 30 metres - a highly complex achievement at this level, and much sought after by connoisseurs. The sound of the chime no longer relies on airborne transmission, but rather resonates through the material of the case. The sapphire dial reveals the HUB 8001 hand-wound mechanical movement, with its tourbillon escapement and the Minute Repeater mechanism. Among the notable new features are the newly designed time setting function and a traditional tourbillon with its 13.6 mm diameter cage, which rotates once every minute, and boasts a highly stable construction thanks to the barrette on the dial side. The watch has an aesthetically pleasing diameter of 45 mm. The piece looks beautiful in King Gold (extra-precious gold containing 5% platinum) or titanium, the two versions in which this new model is available. It is completed with a strap, with a deployant buckle, in black alligator leather sewn onto tone-on-tone rubber for comfort, flexibility and increased leather durability. In-house movement, 24 months in the making, 319 components combined together, and a stunning striking sound of the Classic Fusion Cathedral Tourbillon Minute Repeater, along with Hublot’s classic design and latest innovation in watchmaking, are factors under consideration of the juries in GPHG this year.
REPORTS GPHG award event
GPHG winners
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REPORTS
PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES As the checkered flag drew down, the boisterous roar of the 20 gleaming Spark Renault SRT_01E race cars filled the air and competed with the ecstatic crowd. The 3.4 km circuit around the “Bird Nest” stadium has 20 tricky turns to challenge the daring skills of the drivers, all drawn from the world’s top motorsport disciplines. Like TAG Heuer, these pioneers definitely do not crack under pressure. WORDS GILANG PRATAMA
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REPORTS Lucas Di Grassi
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Tag Heuer as Formula E official timekeeper
FOR THIS INAUGURAL SEASON, 10 TEAMS, EACH WITH TWO DRIVERS, WILL GO HEAD-TO-HEAD IN CREATING A UNIQUE AND EXCITING RACING SERIES DESIGNED TO APPEAL TO A NEW GENERATION OF MOTORSPORT FANS.
n September 13th, all of Beijing was aglow as FIA Formula E, the world’s first fully electric racing championship, held its first-ever zeroemission race. Pumped with adrenaline and fun, the race was energetic until the last corner of the final lap was driven through. TAG Heuer ambassador and Audi Sport ABT Formula E driver Lucas Di Grassi achieved an historic finish and won the first ever race in the history of electric motorsport. The Brazilian racer ascended the podium wearing his treasured Carrera 1887. The excitement of this futuristic event was captured perfectly by Alejandro Agag, CEO of Formula E Holdings, who had this to say, “We had an amazing race, a real competition with the best drivers. Electric motorsport, together with the best of entertainment, has now proven that we can move ahead and invent our future. We have learned a lot and will continue to work hard to offer the best shows for our fans. From the very first day, it was fantastic to have TAG Heuer onboard as the official timekeeper, sharing the same passion for motorsport and innovation.”
Formula E Racing Car
THE RACE FOR MOTHER EARTH Formula E is a new FIA championship featuring Formula cars powered exclusively by electric energy. It represents a vision for the future of the motor industry over the coming decades, serving as a framework for research and development around the electric vehicle, accelerating general interest in these cars and promoting sustainability. Officially sanctioned by the Federation Internationale de l’Automobile (FIA), the FIA Formula E championship starts in Beijing on September 13th, on a specifically designed track around the famous “Bird Nest” stadium. With 10 races, 10 professional teams and 20 recognized
drivers, Formula E will then tour the world with races in major cities such as Los Angeles, Miami, Buenos Aires, London, Berlin or Monaco. For this inaugural season, 10 teams, each with two drivers, will go head-to-head in creating a unique and exciting racing series designed to appeal to a new generation of motorsport fans. Operating as an “open championship,” the series gives car manufacturers and constructors the opportunity to showcase their electrical energy innovations in a racing environment, designing cars to the technical specifications set out by the FIA.
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COMMITTED PARTNER As Formula E’s founding partner and official timekeeper, TAG Heuer celebrated the race with their commitment to precision timekeeping. From the pit lane to the starting lights of the custom-built track, which winds through the heart of the 3,000-year-old city, to the grounds of China’s iconic Olympic Stadium, TAG Heuer’s famous shield and colors were featured prominently on the official data screens, which provided teams, drivers, fans and media with up-to-the-millisecond information. Committed to the promotion of sustainability and seeking to drive the change towards an electric future, TAG Heuer, a pathbreaker, is a pioneering brand that is the perfect fit for the championship. “TAG Heuer has always been ahead of its time, always attracted by firsts,” said Stéphane Linder, CEO of TAG Heuer. “Formula E is a major innovation in this sport of the last 10 years. Motor racing has been a part of TAG Heuer’s DNA since the very beginning. It is only natural that it would become a founding partner of the first fully electric championship. Today’s race is a dream come true and the first step to a new era.” TAG Heuer’s rich heritage is built on pushing boundaries and breaking rules. It harnesses the mental fortitude needed to overcome technology restraints
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and create daring watches and chronographs. With a long history of partnering with motor racing teams and charismatic ambassadors, TAG Heuer makes a break for the watchmaking conventions, and, as a consequence, master time with unparalleled precision. The brand’s motor racing DNA, as well as the amazing ambassadors under its banner, reflect its core values of teamwork, mental strength, courage and ambition. Their slogan, “Don’t Crack Under Pressure” is far more than a claim. It is a mindset for the creation of every timepiece of Tag Heuer. It is in the nature of TAG Heuer to build partnership with people and projects who, like the brand, have defined their own time and made their marks. To date, the twotime Ballon d’Or winner and 2014 Best European Player Cristiano Ronaldo, F1 Vodafone McLaren Mercedes with its World Champion Jenson Button and young talent Kevin Magnussen, and the five-time Grand Slam tennis champion Maria Sharapova, have all worked with the brand. The FIA Formula E Championship is the latest example of TAG Heuer’s venture into the future of motor racing. As the world’s first electric car racing series, the Formula E embodies TAG Heuer’s passion in watchmaking and its vision for the future.
REPORTS The starting grid of Beijing Formula E
Stephen Linder with Formula E racing car
WITH A LONG HISTORY OF PARTNERING WITH MOTOR RACING TEAMS AND CHARISMATIC AMBASSADORS, TAG HEUER MAKES A BREAK FOR THE WATCHMAKING CONVENTIONS, AND, AS A CONSEQUENCE, MASTER TIME WITH UNPARALLELED PRECISION. Tag Heuer as Formula E official timekeeper
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W&W SPECIAL REPORT
WATCHES & WONDERS 2014 SPECIAL REPORT
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W&W SPECIAL REPORT
Double Delight
The 20th anniversary of A. Lange & Söhne’s most iconic watch kicked off with a special collection of five Lange 1s paired elegantly with a matching Little Lange 1 WORDS KELVIN TAN
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he big date of the Lange 1 looks at us as eyes of the German house that reflect the true soul of the brand. We, in turn, have looked at those very eyes for 20 years and our gaze never tire. This year, to commemorate 20 years of excellence in the form of the Lange 1, the brand brings forth the Lange 1 paired up with the Little Lange 1 in matching precious metals, with a bezel set with 64 brilliant cut diamonds for the little one. Further brilliance to the pieces comes in the form of the dials with handmade guilloché in an elaborate, scalloped solar pattern. A total of five precious metal case and dial combinations are offered for the discerning ones. Variants include platinum with black dial, platinum with rhodié dial, white gold with blue dial, pink gold with silver dial, and
pink gold with black dial. Of note are subtle changes in platinum pieces. Upon closer inspection, the former has a black background for the big date coupled with white fonts, while the latter comes with a white background and blue numerals. This is in contrast with the gold cases that come with white background and black fonts for the big date display.
MOVEMENT Manually-wound Calibre L901.0 with big date and 72-hour power reserve CASE 38.5mm for the Lange 1 and 36.1mm for the Little Lange 1 in pink gold, white gold or platinum STRAP Alligator with pin buckle in a matching metal
EDITOR’S NOTE: Focusing on the Lange 1 allows newcomers and existing owners of the watch to remember how the brand rose to the top with its peerless objects of artful timepieces. With these beautifully paired sets of the Lange 1 and Little Lange 1, lucky couples can come together and celebrate along with the brand, this wonderful occasion perhaps to mirror their own lifetime achievements. We especially favour the platinum-rhodié version. The subtle blue font pairs fantastically with the blue strap, offering a little secret for the owner to enjoy just a little bit over the other combinations. 57
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Extreme Horology
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Self Winding Tourbillon Chronograph fuses high performance with high complication WORDS KELVIN TAN
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udemars Piguet first showcased the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph in 2010. That model came with a manually wound movement, which is something of an anomaly in this line of luxury performance watches. This year, determined to make a big statement, the Le Brassus manufacture unveiled the Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Tourbillon Chronograph, with major emphasis on the word “selfwinding”. Sweetening the deal even further is a host of new technological advancements and innovations from the legendary maison. This recent addition comes in a forged carbon case that is mated with a matching black ceramic bezel, crown, and pushers for a complete ‘stealth’ package, while titanium pusher guards reinforce the performance factor. Of course, the famous Mega Tapisserie dial is present to complete the distinctive Royal Oak Offshore visage. In all iterations, the tourbillon is positioned squarely at six o’clock, but this new model offers a little something extra. An irregular aperture at one o’clock shows off the movement’s automatic winding mechanism, which brings us to the main highlight of this watch – a peripheral oscillating weight in platinum. Flip the timepiece over and you’ll be greeted by a breathtaking view of the movement Calibre 2897.
MOVEMENT Self-winding Calibre 2897 tourbillon chronograph movement with 65-hour power reserve CASE 44mm in forged carbon, water resistant to 100m STRAP Black rubber with titanium pin buckle
EDITOR’S NOTE: Sure to raise eyebrows when worn on the wrist, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Self Winding Tourbillon Chronograph thoroughly shows off Audemars Piguet’s excellence and expertise in creating technical wonders that are also pleasing to the eye. This timepiece is bound to leave the owner breathless as he views not only the dial but also the back thanks to the newly implemented peripheral rotor. Such a mechanism reflects the brand’s ability to keep up with the trends and utilise new watchmaking techniques. 58
W&W SPECIAL REPORT
Uncharted Territory
Baume & Mercier moves it up a notch with the arrival of the handsome Clifton 8-Day Power Reserve watch WORDS KELVIN TAN
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n the 185th anniversary of Baume & Mercier, the brand presents us with a watch that caught the attention of many enthusiasts. No stranger to making gentleman’s watches that are exquisitely classic, the brand now pushes it one step further with an eight-day power reserve within its Clifton collection.
The frontal view of the watch presents a silver-opaline dial that displays the typical indices and Arabic numerals combination of the Clifton range. There is a small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock along with an eight-day power reserve indicator and date window at nine and three o’clock respectively. The dial is framed by a contrasting and elegant red gold case possessing both satin and mirror finishings with slightly longer lugs to accommodate a larger diameter. The real surprise is that this Clifton serves as a new platform for a movement that originally came in the form of the IWC Calibre 59210. This calibre is large enough to fill up the case without need for spacing rings. A quick peek to the case back reveals the finely finished movement with the recognisable large spring barrel at the top of the movement. This movement beats at four hertz and provides quite a noteworthy view for the watch lover who wants a classic watch with a touch of modernity. Locking the timepiece to the wrist is a black alligator strap that comes with a matching red gold pin buckle.
MOVEMENT Manual-winding Calibre BM1659210 with eight-day power reserve CASE 45mm in 18Kred gold, water resistant to 50m STRAP Black alligator with 18K red gold pin buckle
EDITOR’S NOTE: The watch is a great representation of the synergies between the siblings of the Richemont Group. The eight-day movement, manufactured by IWC as the Calibre 59210 from the Calibre 59000 family, has been well received and we do not doubt that it will do well sitting within the case of a Clifton. It will be interesting to observe the market’s reaction to it, as a watch in red gold with the same movement from IWC, the Portofino Hand Wound 8 Days, costs CHF5000 more. 59
W&W SPECIAL REPORT
Travel Smart
For those based far away from home or embarking on a leisure trip, the Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night presents a classy solution WORDS RUCKDEE CHOTJINDA
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he name of this new Cartier watch spells out almost everything very clearly. First up, the Rotonde de Cartier Second Time-Zone Day/Night indicates exactly what the name says, plus a nice big date at the top of the dial for added legibility. This watch fills in that deep gap left by sporty GMT watches and classical dress watches with a second time zone indication. A 42mm Rotonde case gives it a casual vibe while the iconic Cartier Roman numerals and the elaborate crown lend it an air of elegance. The result is a perfect watch to wear on those inbetween occasions where you need to look neither too formal nor too casual, but just right. At the 10 o’clock position, we have the second time zone function displayed with a retrograde hand over a fan-shaped counter. This indicator advances by one hour with every push of the crown. Accidental activation when worn is unlikely; the mechanism inside the crown feels very firm and you would need a solid press to change the time. Thick markings are provided along the way at the fourth and the eighth hour to help you quickly determine time in the second country. You can also tell whether it is day or night there by the corresponding day/night indicator at the four o’clock position.
MOVEMENT Self-winding Calibre 1904-FU MC with 48-hour power reserve CASE 42mm in pink gold, white gold, or steel, water resistant to 30m STRAP Black or brown alligator with double adjustable folding buckle
EDITOR’S NOTE: I wonder, though, how the watch would look if they moved the second time zone indication down to exactly opposite the power reserve then centre the Cartier logo. But that is probably just my personal and exceeding obsession for symmetry. As they say, beauty is in the eye of the beholder!
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Subtle Approach
The thought that IWC is going to introduce models for ladies again did not cross many people’s mind – not after all these years WORDS RUCKDEE CHOTJINDA
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he silhouette of a watch shown by IWC just before Watches & Wonders show clearly indicated it was a Portofino – those straight lugs are unmistakable. But the surprise was the fact that the new models introduced are for the fairer sex. Yes, these watches are designed with ladies in mind although they’re not labelled as such. If the ‘Midsize’ suffix has not made it amply lucid, then design details like mother-of-pearl dials and diamond-adorned bezels would do the job. The Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase Ref. 4590 and the Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night Ref. 4591 are the two stars of the show for IWC at Watches & Wonders. The cases of both watches maintain the design and proportion of the Portofino Automatic Ref. 3565 except they’re downsized from 40mm to 37mm for obvious reasons. The former prominently features the moon phase indication at the 12 o’clock position, while the latter offers to tell the time in another country with a 24-hour ring and an extra hand around the central section of the dial.
MOVEMENT Self-winding Calibre 35800 with moon phase display and 42-hour power reserve CASE 37mm in white gold, red gold, or steel, water resistant to 30m STRAP Alligator leather with pin buckle or steel Milanese mesh bracelet MOVEMENT Self-winding Calibre 35700 with day/night display and 42-hour power reserve CASE 37mm in red gold or steel, water resistant to 30m STRAP Dark blue or black alligator leather with pin buckle
EDITOR’S NOTE: One can readily hear the excitement from the ladies who have always admired IWC but never found a model that truly struck a chord with their hearts. At the same time, the small dissatisfaction voiced by gentleman fans who have been following the brand since back when they had their machismo ads is totally understandable as well. I would say let’s keep an open mind here and not be too quick to judge, for as long as they keep our men’s models true to the ideals we believe in, that’s good enough for me. 61
W&W SPECIAL REPORT
Floral Notes
With the Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater, the Grande Maison of Le Sentier continues to ensure that ladies are not left out of the haute horlogerie game WORDS RUCKDEE CHOTJINDA
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ts name is almost symbolic of a beautiful and sophisticated lady, and there can be no two adjectives more descriptive of the Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater by Jaeger-LeCoultre. But nomenclature aside, this timepiece once again cements the Grande Maison’s savoir-faire with feminine high complications. The Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater follows in the footsteps of sister watches, which have wowed its female clientele in earlier years, with such complications as the perpetual calendar and the tourbillon with day/night indication. This year, Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater dazzles on both aesthetic and technical levels. Its ice cool dial in blue enamel is fashioned with a sunburst guilloché motif, which fans up and outwards from the logo at the six o’clock position. All the leaves of the ivy vines undulating across the dial are completely snow-set with diamonds.
The minute repeater is activated by a push button on the upper left side of the case, not a slide as found on most repeater watches, even though it appears like a slide. Jaeger-LeCoultre says that a security system is built into the watch to make sure that a person cannot damage the watch by pressing the button for the second time while the minute repeater is already engaged. There was no opportunity to try this at Watches & Wonders but, then again, there is no reason to doubt the claim either. MOVEMENT Self-winding Calibre 942A with minute repeater and 43-hour power reserve CASE 39mm in white gold, water resistant to 30m STRAP Satin with folding buckle
EDITOR’S NOTE: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-Vous Ivy Minute Repeater may appear large in photo, but the white gold case measures only 39mm in real life. Except for some parts of the case band and the lateral sides of the lugs, the exterior of the watch is fully covered in diamonds. The caratage of all 548 diamonds used on the case and the dial of this complication watch is an impressive 2.3ct. 62
W&W SPECIAL REPORT
Dramatic Effect
For its sheer horological theatrics, Montblanc’s Metamorphosis II deserves a standing ovation WORDS CELINE YAP
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onceived four years ago by two talented watchmakers for Montblanc’s TimeWriter project, the Metamorphosis concept was but a hint of the manufacture’s rich watchmaking savoir-faire. Today, it remains as astonishing as ever, and the good news is, connoisseurs of Montblanc’s horological pursuits can now own this watch because the manufacture has just released the Metamorphosis II in a limited production run of only 18 pieces. There are two distinctive faces to this watch. At first glance, it appears to be your average, garden-variety classic mechanical watch done regulator style with the hour, retrograde minute and seconds on separate axes. Beautiful finishing and decoration cover this dial, including grain d’orge (barley-corn) guilloché, satin finishing, fillet sauté (raised edge), straight-satin finishing, and a gorgeous sapphire crystal bridge above the date wheel. It has a sliding lever on the case band but the Metamorphosis II isn’t a minute repeater. Taking a leaf from the mechanics of repeaters, sliding and releasing the lever kickstarts a whole symphony of activity on the dial. Two segments part midway and disappear underneath the dial within five seconds – as compared to the TimeWriter I Metamorphosis’s 15 seconds – revealing the underside in anthracite with clous de Paris guilloché and sub-dials with a spiral satin finishing. What’s even more amazing is the way the lower sub-dial (for elapsed chronograph minutes) rises to be perfectly level with the date hand, which now fits inside a specially stencilled aperture.
MOVEMENT Manually-wound Calibre MB67-40 monopusher chronograph movement with approximately 50-hour power reserve The Metamorphosis transforms when dial segments part upon activation of the sliding lever
CASE 52mm in red gold with sapphire case back, water resistant to 30m STRAP Hand-sewn black alligator with triple folding clasp in red gold
EDITOR’S NOTE: The chronograph minutes sub-dial rotates and is read off an arrow co-axial with the cannon pinion – a nice touch that bridges a Le Locle signature (rotating discs) with a Villeret signature (the arrow motif). Although there are no elapsed chronograph hours, the fact that the chronograph function and hours and minutes can be continuously tracked is a massive achievement unto itself. 63
W&W SPECIAL REPORT
Complete Package
Panerai unveiled a new movement, the Calibre P.4000, which is perfectly suited for the Radiomir 1940 collection WORDS CELINE YAP Panerai, Calibres P.9000 and P.3000, measure 7.9mm and 8mm respectively. All proffer three days of power reserve although Calibre P.3000 does so with three spring barrels instead of two, as is the case for Calibres P.9000 and P.4000. Thus, the most remarkable aspect of Calibre P.4000 is that, not only does it equal the others in power reserve, but it achieves this feat with two spring barrels and a micro-rotor. The micro-rotor, which is at an off-centre position, comes in two variations – tungsten and red gold. In tungsten, it accompanies the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic PAM572 in steel, and in red gold, the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic PAM573 in red gold. Finished differently, both can be admired through the sapphire case back.
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alfway between a Radiomir and a Luminor, the Radiomir 1940 has come a long way since its inception three years ago. A combination of the Radiomir case with Luminor lugs, this watch is now presented with a completely new movement designed and manufactured by Panerai, the Calibre P.4000. Boosting the watch with an ample three-day power reserve, this self-winding movement bears something no other Panerai movement ever has: A micro-rotor. Calibre P.4000 measures 13¾ lignes across and 3.95mm in height. As a comparison, the two other self-winding movements by
MOVEMENT Self-winding Calibre P.4000 with 3-day power reserve CASE 45mm in steel or red gold, water resistant to 100m STRAP Panerai personalised alligator with polished buckle in steel or red gold
EDITOR’S NOTE: A micro-rotor yields a movement thinner than would otherwise have been possible with a regular rotor. Calibre P.4000, according to Panerai CEO, Angelo Bonati, “Opens up a new market. It is less heavy, less hefty, and lighter, with more options on diameter and thickness.” Before, smaller sized models came with the Calibre P.999, a 12-ligne movement 3.4mm in height. However, Bonati has revealed that it will soon be phased out and replaced by a Calibre P.1000, although he did not reveal when this will happen. 64
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Fine Art
In the name of creativity and craftsmanship, Piaget releases a new ultra-thin skeletonised Altiplano, this time with champlevé enamel gold bridges WORDS CELINE YAP
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echnical wizardry and artisanal mastery are often thought to be two relevant but disparate aspects of watchmaking, but if there’s a fine line between the two, then Piaget walks it with aplomb. And aptly, for Piaget is renowned for its unrivalled dominance in the category of ultra-thin watches. More impressively, in recent years, it has taken age-old métiers d’arts on the horological tightrope that is ultra-thin skeletonisation. Piaget has already garnered the world’s attention with record-breaking ultra-thin skeletonised movements beautifully hand-drawn and hand-bevelled, some set with diamonds. This year, it raised the bar even further as it introduced the Altiplano Skeleton Enamel. Offering a trifecta of watchmaking’s most revered crafts, this ultra-thin and skeletonised watch is finally endowed with gold bridges decorated with traditional hand enamelling in the champlevé technique. Indeed, Calibre 1200E is the first skeletonised movement in the world to have been decorated with enamelled bridges. According to Piaget, the greatest difficult in creating this timepiece is maintaining a subtle balance between hollowing out the parts and ensuring the superlative functionality of the mechanism. In either black or white enamel, there are a few subtle differences between the two. The black version in white gold comes with black sapphire cabochons to secure the movement components to the enamelled plate. Also, the chatons containing the cabochons are hand-engraved with little beads reminiscent of vintage jewellery making techniques. In white, the pink gold case has regular red rubies and a diamond-set bezel.
MOVEMENT Self-winding Calibre 1200E with 44-hour power reserve CASE 38mm in pink gold or white gold, water resistant to 30m STRAP Black alligator leather with pin buckle in pink or white gold
EDITOR’S NOTE: It’s always a pleasure to witness Piaget’s immense creativity in blending horological know-how with métiers d’arts and jewellery craftsmanship. Making for an excellent choice for couples, the Altiplano Skeleton Enamel perfectly embodies all of the most treasured crafts of Piaget. 65
W&W SPECIAL REPORT
Crystal Clear The Richard Mille RM56-02 Sapphire Tourbillon hides no secrets because literally every single component can be seen, and from all angles WORDS QUAN TRAN
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ichard Mille introduced for the first time, the use of an all-sapphire case with its RM56 Sapphire Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph in 2011. Upping the technological ante is the RM56-01, which is fundamentally similar in its use of sapphire crystal, only its use has extended to the baseplate, bridges, and the third wheel. Turning to this highly contemporary material once again, Richard Mille presented the RM56-02 – another outrageously daredevil creation that brings yet more sapphire to the mix. This watch also intensifies the feeling of transparency and airiness by suspending the titanium base plate from the sapphire case with an elaborate cable and pulley system. The transparent sapphire case, which is made up of three parts each milled and ground from solid blocks of sapphire, has a hardness of 1,800 Vickers, and is virtually scratch-resistant to any material except diamond. Sapphire has also been used in the movement components including the winding barrel bridge, centre bridges, and also the tourbillon bridge. Creating it took over 1,000 hours of machining, of which 430 were spent on pre-forming the individual components, and 350 on polishing the entire case. More on the pulley system: Four pulleys on posts at the corners of the case are supplemented by a further six along the periphery, while a fine braided cable measuring just 0.35mm binds the movement to the system. A ratchet at nine o’clock allows the wearer to adjust the tension on the cable and an arrow-shaped indicator at 12 o’clock informs you if the cable is too tense or not tense enough.
MOVEMENT Manual-winding Calibre RM56-02 tourbillon with 38-hour power reserve CASE 50.5mm x 42.7mm x 16.75mm in sapphire crystal, water resistant to 30m STRAP Water resistant Aerospace Nano
EDITOR’S NOTE: The cable system is a novel method to protect the movement against shock and vibration, although, given the brittle properties of sapphire, should the watch come in contact with a strong impact, the case is likely to shatter first. Only 10 examples of this watch were made, so it is a masterpiece for those who truly appreciate the futuristic watchmaking endeavours of modern horologers like Richard Mille. 66
W&W SPECIAL REPORT
A Fitting Hommage
This is the year of the Hommage for Roger Dubuis and the Geneva manufacture excites with an elegantly openworked high complication in the collection WORDS QUAN TRAN
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epresenting the latest addition to the Hommage collection, Roger Dubuis has unveiled the Hommage Minute Repeater Tourbillon Automatic. The movement of the Hommage Minute Repeater harbours two other key technical features that have become Roger Dubuis signatures: Automatic winding via a distinctive double micro-rotor (in pink gold) ensuring optimal winding performance and enhanced aesthetic appeal; and a flying tourbillon in a new carriage guaranteeing optimal inertia, equilibrium and anti-shock protection. The minute repeater mechanism chimes three different sounds – the hours on a low tone, minutes on a high tone, and quarter hours on alternating high and low tones. Other touches of refinement include leaf-type hands, a sunray guilloché motif, Roman numerals, a concave bezel and broad inner bezel ring, a limited-edition number engraved on the case side, as well as alternating polished and satin-brushed finish on the case middle and lugs. For the movement, the Hommage watches notably feature a multi-layered one, creating a fascinating 3D effect. The spectacular minute repeater is only partially covered by the dial, thus providing a clear view of the parts in motion when the striking mechanism is in operation. To see the hammers and gongs, however, you will need to turn it over. The RD104 movement, which may be admired through a sapphire crystal pane, offers a highly original and expressive symmetrical effect that reminds us of another unique feature of the manufacture, double tourbillon movements. A set of twin micro-rotors is joined by two smartly-polished hammers on one side and the back view of the flying tourbillon on the other. This is possibly the best view with which to admire Roger Dubuis’s movement finishing savoir-faire.
MOVEMENT Self-winding Calibre RD104 with minute repeater, tourbillon, and 60hour power reserve CASE 45mm in pink gold with engraved case back, water resistant to 10m STRAP Black alligator leather with pink gold adjustable folding buckle
EDITOR’S NOTE: Only 20 pieces will be made to celebrate Roger Dubuis’s 20th anniversary. This standout creation offers fresh proof of how approaching horology from its own inimitable angle enables the manufacture to embrace past, present and future within models exuding the truly timeless charm of incredible mechanics. 67
W&W SPECIAL REPORT
Beyond Skin Deep
If luxury is all about tactile quality, then Vacheron Constantin’s L’Empreinte du Dragon may very well be the last word in métiers d’art horology WORDS JAMIE TAN
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ased on technical merit alone, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Calibre 2253 L’Empreinte du Dragon is an impressive timepiece. The movement inside measures just 9.6mm thick, but packs a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, equation of time, and sunrise/sunset indications. The icing on the cake is its 14-day power reserve – a huge feat considering the array of timing and astronomical complications it must power. The artisanal value of the watch, however, elevates it to a whole other level. L’Empreinte du Dragon’s case, bezel, and lugs have been engraved with a dragon scale motif entirely by hand, using tools such as burins and a compass. Given the varying areas and curvatures of the surfaces, consistently applying the motif while keeping visual balance is immensely difficult. To further compound matters, there are no trial runs or mock ups available, and mistakes cannot be reversed; the engraving must be done right on the first try. The engraving also maintains a uniform depth of 0.4mm, which is yet another feat given the lack of machines used. As expected, the engraver charged with accomplishing the task is no ordinary craftsman. This master-artisan from Vacheron Constantin was conferred the lifelong title of Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2011, following a quadrennial competition. Owing to its one-of-a-kind case, which the engraver spent almost 70 hours on, L’Empreinte du Dragon is as stunning as it is unique.
MOVEMENT Manual-winding Calibre 2253 with tourbillon, perpetual calendar, equation of time, sunrise/sunset, and 14-day power reserve CASE 44mm in pink gold, water resistant to 30m STRAP Dark brown alligator with pink gold folding clasp
WRITER’S NOTE: Vacheron Constantin’s Métier d’Art collection is where the manufacture showcases its expertise in decorative arts, with various techniques applied on the watches’ dials and now cases too. Engraving a case is, however, much rarer and the L’empreinte du Dragon is a good reminder that métiers d’art can be demonstrated beyond the dial.
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Reach For The Stars
The latest poetic complication from Van Cleef & Arpels is an almanac of sorts as it displays the appearance of meteor showers 365 days a year WORDS JAMIE TAN
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eteor showers occur when the Earth passes through a comet’s dust trail – each shooting star observed is a dust particle burning up in the earth’s atmosphere. Prominent ones such as the Leonids take place with surprising regularity, with peak intensities that vary yearly by just a few days. Other spectacular meteor showers include Geminids (mid-December) and Quadrantids (early January). The Lady Arpels Heures Filantes tracks this phenomenon by identifying 12 major meteor showers and depicting their relative intensities with mother-of-pearl stars on an aventurine disc, which makes one complete rotation once a year. The present day, however, is kept constant at 12 o’clock and indicated by a sky blue arrow tip. With just one glance, the wearer can see if there is an on-going meteor shower perceivable somewhere on earth, and also anticipate the next. Driven by the same module found in Van Cleef & Arpels’s Quantième de Saison developed originally in 2006, the movement powers a rotating disc that charts a yearly cycle around the dial. Fittingly, this mechanism is perfect for tracking meteor showers given their annual recurrences. Turn the watch over and the case back displays a part of the movement, as well as an aperture at six o’clock with a chart that indicates the average number of meteors one can see per hour.
MOVEMENT Manual-winding Valfleurier P968 with Agenhor module and 35-hour power reserve CASE 38mm in white gold, water resistant to 30m STRAP Blue alligator with ardillon buckle in white gold set with diamonds
WRITER’S NOTE: The Lady Arpels Heures Filantes adds to and refreshes the middle tier of the Poetic Complications collection previously inhabited by watches like the Midnight in Paris. Sitting above simpler movements with 24-hour rotating dials and below highly complicated ones such as the Midnight Planétarium, this timepiece retains several signatures of the collection. The usage of aventurine for the dial to represent the sky, for example, echoes several other timepieces from the collection. Its gem-set case, too, is another feature common to its siblings in the collection. 69
W&W SPECIAL REPORT
Trial By Fire
Five things we learnt at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Grand Feu enamelling workshop WORDS JAMIE TAN
1. ENAMEL PAINTING CAN BE REVERSIBLE
Although grand feu enamel is supposed to be immutable, it only gains this property after being fired at 800 degrees Celsius. Before this, it exists as a paste of glass powder mixed with oil, which is painted with a brush. Made a mistake? Just do an intermediate firing at 200 degrees Celsius to dry off the oil without fusing the powder. The residue that’s left behind behaves like dried paint, and can then be scratched off with a chisel.
2. CREATION THROUGH DESTRUCTION
An enamel artist works with an oily, viscous medium on a smooth, tiny canvas. Creating micro details just isn’t possible, however fine his brush is. The workaround to this is to use the chisel to remove material after putting the enamel through intermediate firing. The dry enamel is far easier to work with, and opens up a plethora of possibilities: Razor sharp lines can be made, and negative space has as much potential as the applied enamel.
3. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CROSSED
Simply put, what you see isn’t what you might get. Enamelling is as much an art as it is a science, and details such as the proportion of oil to glass powder are often rules of thumb rather than measurable standards. As such, how the glass powders will
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behave during the final baking can vary considerably. Case in point, a few workshop participants used red enamel, only to have the final product range from yellow to orange after baking.
4. COLOUR CODING
When working with multiple colours, the enamel piece invariably requires several cycles of painting, drying, and touching up. Although enamel becomes inert after drying (even at the lower temperature of 200 degrees Celsius), two colours will meld together if painted side by side and dried together. To paint multiple colours thus requires some planning – coloured areas that are not in contact can be painted and dried first, before subsequent coats of other colours are filled in.
5. FOCUS AND STAMINA
The physical challenges of enamel painting are rarely mentioned and oft-overlooked, but the workshop participants experienced them first hand. Directing one’s focus on a canvas one-tenth the size of a credit card gets tiring quickly, especially for one’s eyes. The physical control required to paint on it wasn’t easy too – the participants’ hands were probably more at home over a keyboard, and several were shaking from exhaustion by the end of the workshop.
W&W SPECIAL REPORT
Micro-Rotor Master Class
Panerai shared the innermost secrets of its new Calibre P.4000 in a private workshop where connoisseurs were invited to disassemble and re-assemble the movement   WORDS CELINE YAP
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y taking apart and re-assembling the Calibre P.4000, not only did it become apparent that movement assembly is a delicate craft that sounds easier than it really is, but watch aficionados could really admire every single nook and cranny through the loupe. It also gave us a chance to examine the mechanics behind the all-new micro-rotor. Did we have fun? You betcha. Would we do it for a living? Hell no. 71
BELL&ROSS SPECIAL
THE HYPERSONIC CHRONOGRAPH
Bell & Ross continues to innovate with the launch of the BR-X1, a high-tech chronograph which is as robust as it is sophisticated. BR-X1 is the first watch of a new collection from Bell & Ross and the beginning of a whole new chapter in the saga of the brand. The BR-X1 is much more than a top-ofthe-range contemporary sports watch. It is, as the company says, the “Ultimate Utility Watch.” WORDS GILANG PRATAMA
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BELL&ROSS SPECIAL
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early ten years ago, Bell & Ross launched the BR-01, a distinctive, high-performance watch directly inspired by on-board flight instruments. The BR-01 featured a square shape that encourages perfect legibility, with round dial and broad dimension. The efficiency of its functional design has become an iconic identity of Bell & Ross designs. The BR-01 has continued to evolve without losing its original identity. As a guiding principle, from vintage pocket watches to grand complication watches, each Bell & Ross signed model pays homage to a great era in military history. The watches are a tribute to the Bell X-1, the first American experimental rocket plane to break the sound barrier in 1947. Watchmaker Bell & Ross is pushing the boundaries of innovation even further in 2014 by launching its fifthgeneration watch: The BR-X1. A high-end chronograph with a resolute sporty design and sophisticated haute horlogerie finishes, the BR-X1 is inspired by 21st century fighter planes whose futuristic cockpits are made from fine, high-tech materials. The BRX1 is an inventive, high-tech watch, which is also masculine, strong and powerful. The BR-X1 is to luxury watchmaking what fifth-generation fighter planes are to aviation: a guarantee of ultimate performance.
Bell & Ross BR-X1 Chronograph
RESISTANCE, ERGONOMICS, FUNCTIONAL The BR-X1 45mm case is made from grade 5 titanium. The square case is covered with high-tech materials, while the band is made from ceramic and rubber, designed as a cover around the edges, acting as shield that protects against any possible impact. The innovative rocker push buttons are used to activate the chronograph functions, and is also made from high-tech ceramic and ergonomic design rubbers inserts. These innovations make them a solid and easy-to-grip timepieces, a distinct function of every Bell & Ross watches. A rubber button grip is also inserted into the case at 9 0’clock, to make it easier to activate the chronograph functions, even when wearing gloves. The perfect combination of materials and qualities; titanium, ceramic and rubber, make the BR-X1 light, virtually scratch-proof and ergonomic. Its case features functional non-indexed screws. The sapphire glass has an anti-glare coating to ensure perfect legibility in all circumstances. Revolutionary and ultra-masculine, the design of this latestgeneration case boasts a combination of materials that makes endless possibilities. It also opens up a vast potential for creativity, mostly in customisation.
TECHNOLOGY AND SOPHISTICATION The chronograph is a complication excellence in aviation. It can measure short periods of time and has become an essential tool in navigation. It is mainly for these reasons that the chronograph has always enjoyed a special place among the Bell & Ross aviation watch experts. The BR-X1 is not just any chronograph. Its rare skeleton chronograph movement features an exceptional motor that combines refined finishes and extreme lightness. Structured in the shape of an “X”, its upper bridge reads like a mark of its identity. “X”, is the code name that refers to NASA’s
experimental projects, and which gives the watch its name: the BR-X1. As is the tradition at Bell & Ross, the back of the BR-X1 features a small, round opening which reveals the beating heart of the balance. Made from grey-tinted mineral glass and featuring appliqué metal indices with photoluminescent inserts, the dial forms a clear window through which the exceptional movement can be admired. The sophisticated, Superluminova filled hands offer perfect legibility. The central hour and minute hands are read traditionally, while the small seconds hand is positioned at 3 o’clock. The skeleton date dial is positioned at 6 o’clock. The minute timer on the chronograph function is positioned at 9 o’clock but instead of a hand, it features an ultralight aluminium disc resembling the blades of a turbine. Essential for calculating speeds, the tachometer scale appears on the ring. Each chronograph function is marked with a subtle touch of red. The black strap is decorated with a braid, which echoes the woven canvas straps used by astronauts. The buckle is both robust and refined, it is made from steel and featuring a moulded black rubber insert. It is fixed to the strap using a pin and two hex-head screws.
THE ULTIMATE CHRONOGRAPH The perfect synthesis of Bell & Ross’ expertise in creating professional greatly complex watches, the BR-X1 is an exceptional instrument with an innovative, modern design, which is available as a limited edition of 250 pieces. Set on revolutionising the watchmaking world, its distinctive design boasts a sporty look with high-tech features and haute horlogerie finishes. The BR-X1 marks a new chapter in the rich history of Bell & Ross.
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HIGHLIGHTS
AVIATION TRIBUTE IWC pays tribute to France’s most celebrated aviator and author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, and his fateful final flight WORDS JAMIE TAN
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ntoine de Saint-Exupéry’s fate on his final flight in 1944 was one of aviation’s greatest mysteries, and frequently compared to Amelia Earhart’s disappearance over the central Pacific Ocean. Saint-Exupéry had already been discharged from the air force because of his age, but had continued flying out of a sense of national duty. His last assigned mission was a reconnaissance flight in and around the Rhone valley to prepare for an Allied invasion of the south of France. Unfortunately, he was spotted on that flight by the Luftwaffe and never returned after taking off from an airbase in Corsica. Speculation over where Saint-Exupéry came down was finally put to rest in 1998, when a fisherman recovered a bracelet of his off the coast of Marseille. Subsequently in 2001, a diver found pieces of wreckage from his plane spread over several thousands of square metres, which were recovered two years later. To mark the 70th anniversary of SaintExupéry’s final flight, IWC has released the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “The Last Flight”. IWC has a longstanding partnership with the estate of Saint-Exupéry, with several special edition watches issued over the past decade. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “The Last Flight” is the 10th such timepiece, and marks a return to Saint-Exupéry-themed pilot watches following the last few featuring the eponymous character of Le Petit Prince, SaintExupéry’s best known book. Three limited editions of the watch are available; the crown, pushers and case back come in either titanium, red gold, or platinum, in limited runs of 1700, 170 and 17 pieces respectively. Although all IWC special edition timepieces honouring Saint-Exupéry have tobacco brown dials similar to his flight suit, this is the first time the watch case comes in the same colour. IWC achieved this by making the case in ceramic from silicon nitride and completed the colour scheme with a calfskin strap that’s also in tobacco brown. Besides its unique ceramic case, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “The
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St-Exupéry mysteriously disappeared in July 1944
Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “The Last Flight” with case back and activators in red gold (left), platinum (right), and titanium (bottom)
Last Flight” has features differentiating it from the ‘stock’ Pilot’s Watch Chronograph and other special edition pilot chronographs IWC currently offers. Despite the familiar bi-compax chronograph layout, the watch has no date window at three o’clock. The aperture has instead been integrated into the small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock. The timepiece is also capable of measuring elapsed time of up to 12 hours with flyback, and both its minute and hour counters have been combined into the sub-dial at 12 o’clock. The result is a surprisingly pleasing symmetrical dial. As is standard for IWC pilot watches, “The Last Flight” is water-resistant to 60m, which is more than reasonable given its intended usage. The crystal is also secured against displacement in low pressure environments encountered by pilots. Flip the watch around, and you’ll see the engraving on the case back commemorating Saint-Exupéry’s last flight. Like many previous occasions, a one-off piece of this watch has been made in platinum. It will be auctioned off in November at Sotheby’s Geneva, with the beneficiary this time being the Hospital Pequeno Príncipe in Curitiba, which is Brazil’s largest children’s hospital. Proceeds from the watch’s auction will go entirely towards a library in the hospital’s recreation area.
MOVEMENT Self-winding IWC Calibre 89361 with 68-hour power reserve CASE 46mm in ceramic, water resistant to 60m STRAP Brown calfskin leather with pin buckle
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HIGHLIGHTS
OFF TO THE DEEP END
As far as Breitling is concerned, a dive watch is a performance instrument and not a fashion accessory. That’s what makes the Superocean Chronograph Steelfish such an outstanding watch WORDS CELINE YAP
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ivers are practical people. The first question they’ll ask about things they choose to use or add to their arsenal of equipment – whether it is diving gear, accessories and apparel, or timing instruments – is this: Is it good? Most times, price is a secondary concern and performance always comes first. Those who are big on technicality and a good price-to-quality ratio will find Breitling’s new watch, the Superocean Chronograph Steelfish, a very attractive proposition. Relying only on wits, training, and observation skills to survive, it is only natural for a diver to expect 100 per cent reliability from every piece of equipment strapped to his body. Indeed, there is no room for compromise because to do so is to risk your life. This might smack of hubris, but unless you’re a diver, it’s very hard to fathom (pun intended) how hard it is to complete very simple tasks when submerged at depths of 100ft, sometimes even deeper as professional divers are required to go. Not that luxury dive watches are frequently taken on dives, but the fact remains, and this magazine has repeatedly reiterated, that they are more than qualified to take on this challenge. The key characteristics of a dive watch include water resistance to a minimum of 100m, luminosity on the hands and hour markers, and a uni-directional rotating bezel. Other elements good to have are corrosion-resistant cases and rubber straps. All of these attributes can be found in the Superocean Chronograph Steelfish. Foremost, it has a broad ratcheted bezel with black rubberincrusted numerals and markings, which promise perpetual legibility, as rubber does not fade like embossed ink does. Sturdiness and robustness are its next two key qualities. The oversized stainless steel case comes with a screw-lock crown flanked by two protectors, pushpieces that cannot be activated unless unlocked, and a thick sapphire crystal glareproofed on both sides. Water resistant to 500m, the movement inside is COSCcertified, thus guaranteeing tip-top precision at all times and under all conditions. As a bonus, the Superocean Chronograph Steelfish also displays the day and date in separate apertures – who could argue with even more legibility?
MOVEMENT Calibre 13 self-winding chronograph with 42-hour power reserve CASE 44mm in stainless steel and water resistant to 500m STRAP Ocean Racer rubber, Diver Pro rubber, or Professional bracelet
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HIGHLIGHTS
TO THE LEFT Whether you’re a leftie or a just a big fan of Panerai, the new left-handed Submersible checks all the right boxes WORDS CELINE YAP
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t takes a true Panerai fan to appreciate the nuances of what could suspiciously appear to be more of the same. The recently launched Luminor Submersible 1950 LeftHanded 3 Days Automatic Titanio 47mm PAM569 wouldn’t strike one immediately as a breakthrough timepiece, but if the amount of excitement buzzing around the Web is anything to go by, this timepiece does have much in store. For the record, the Submersible is an offshoot of the Luminor, so it also has the iconic crown protector. At the same time, it distinguishes itself clearly from the other pieces of the collection with a uni-directional rotating bezel that also identifies it as a dive watch. Indeed, all Panerai watches are seaworthy, since the brand was the official supplier of maritime instruments to the Royal Italian Navy in the last world war, but only the Submersible with its rotating bezel can be deemed a true dive watch. Its lineage can be traced back to the 1950s when Panerai was tasked to make watches for the Egyptian Navy. This historical model, nicknamed the Egiziano today, was the first Panerai watch to have an external rotating bezel.
MOVEMENT Calibre P.9000 self-winding movement with 72-hour power reserve CASE 47mm brushed titanium, water resistant to 300m STRAP Brown natural leather with ecru stitching and black rubber (interchangeable)
Back to the PAM569, it is an impressive watch on several levels. For starters, its 47mm diameter will not be missed even by the oblivious among us. Yet, because it is made entirely in titanium – case, case back, crown, lever, and crown protector – it does not weigh the wrist down. Another plus is the higher resistance to scratches and corrosion as compared to stainless steel. Titanium’s hardness is great news for the watch wearer, but not so for the producer because it is more difficult to machine, cut, and finish. Still, Panerai has managed to give PAM569 a beautiful brushed finish that complements the rugged nature of the watch. On the case back, there is an engraving of a human torpedo lovingly called Siluro a Lenta Corsa (slow-speed torpedo), which the frogmen of the Italian Navy used in the war. PAM569 also has its crown and crown protector on the left, and this is in fact the first Submersible model with such a design. Rich in historical significance, people who habitually wear their watches on their right hands will also be gladdened by this small convenience. Harking back to earlier Submersible models like the PAM305, and to a lesser extent the PAM25, this 2014 model has a small seconds indicator at three o’clock and date at nine o’clock, in addition to applied luminous dots and hour markers coated with ecru Super-LumiNova on a black dial with Clous de Paris decoration. On the bezel, it has a graduated scale for calculating the time of immersion, and ratchet clicks at oneminute intervals. This handsome dive watch is limited to 1,000 pieces only.
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HIGHLIGHTS
ARMED FORCES
The WW2 Military Tourbillon brings together four complications in one watch
With the Bell & Ross WW2 Military Tourbillon, Bell & Ross juxtaposes haute horlogerie with military might WORDS KELVIN TAN
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watch made in the military theme has to be tough and robust in nature. As such, the WW2 Military Tourbillon has a unique shield functioning as added protection to its crystal. But rather than obscure all that’s on the dial, this stainless steel covering is cleverly stenciled to reveal the essential time telling displays of the watch. Moreover, those displays are given a vintage patina treatment recalling the good old days. The watch has several complications: A precision indicator, a power reserve indicator, and the impressive tourbillon at six o’clock. We admit to enjoying how Bell & Ross has decided to execute the cage of the
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With the shield down, the WW2 Tourbillon is redolent of historical military timing instruments
While the watch is reminiscent of the past, its movement is unapologetically modern
The tourbillon carriage is designed with Bell & Ross’s insignia, the ampersand
A tourbillon, a trust index, a power reserve indicator, and a regulator layout make this a most unique Bell & Ross timepiece
tourbillon on board. The heart of the watch beats within a pink gold cage takes one minute to perform a full rotation, thus taking on the role as the small seconds indicator. Evidently, it is a timepiece that’s full of intriguing complications also tied to its aviation concept. At maximum power reserve, the watch gives the owner an impressive five full days of operation. Where the front cover lifts to reveal a dial that emphasises the watch’s vintage feel, the display sapphire case back shows off the well finished carbon fibre plates and bridges inside, as though to juxtapose. All in all, along with the satin-polished and PVD-coated Grade 5 titanium case, these elements allow the watch to feel lightweight on the wrist while commanding the presence it deserves. A matching and comfortable vintage aviation strap is provided. Made of brown alligator, the strap is paired with a titanium pin buckle. Only the most enthusiastic of owners can own one of these 20 limited edition timepieces.
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HIGHLIGHTS
THE GIFT OF
TIME Choosing a timepiece for someone (anyone, even yourself) can be a herculean task. Watches, unlike handcrafted picture frames or designer wine openers, have to reflect their wearers’ personality, style, habits, and – especially for the horologically-inclined – their beliefs. Reconciling these factors with the right type of timepiece is, thus, the key, although the dizzying array of options could daunt even the most determined well-meaning individuals. But fear not, dear reader! With the festive season in tow, time is on your side. And we’ve come up with 10 good reasons why you need a new watch by the end of 2014 WORDS CELINE YAP
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GOLD & PLATINUM WATCHES
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Because sometimes good ol’ steel just doesn’t cut it
on’t get us wrong – stainless steel is perfectly fine a material in watchmaking, and will always be a perennial favourite. It’s just that on the occasion when one requires a timepiece that carries a bit more weight, there’s nothing like a gold or platinum watch to convey the posh vibe. Plus, on the sartorial front, a dash of rose or yellow gold on the wrist immediately sets a man apart, especially when tastefully paired with the right belt buckle, frames, or even simple jewellery. If cost is a concern, consider a gold-plated or bi-colour case.
PERRELET Turbine Chrono in rose gold and steel
ROLEX GMT Master II in white gold
FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT Vintage Rally Healey GMT in rose gold-plated steel
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PARMIGIANI FLEURIER Toric Resonance in white gold
ORIS 110 Years Limited Edition in rose gold
BLANCPAIN
JUNGHANS
BREGUET
Villeret 12-Day One-Minute Flying Tourbillon in platinum
Meister Telemeter in yellow gold plated steel
Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique Ref. 5377 in platinum
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DRESS WATCHES
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Because simplicity is the ultimate sophistication
ssence is whatever sums up the heart and soul of something, its truest, most indispensable qualities. As they are devoid of the superfluous and the flamboyant, dress watches are the purest examples of the art of watchmaking and the philosophy of the brands that make them. Good dress watches say little but reveal much within the span of no more than 40mm on the wrist. Some proffer more than just the hours and minutes, but always discreetly. Indeed, while dress watches are the subtlest things, in search of beauty, the keen eye of a seasoned watch aficionado knows exactly where to look.
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Patrimony Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 in pink gold
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TUDOR
RAYMOND WEIL
Style in steel
Maestro in steel
ERNEST BOREL Retro in steel
DREYFUSS & CO 1925 in rose gold
CHRONOSWISS Sirius Automatic Medium in red gold
ARMAND NICOLET L10 in steel
TITONI Wallstreet in steel
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SPORTS WATCHES Because adventurous dare-devils need something robust and sturdy
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o matter what they’re designed to do, all sports watches have one thing in common: They are made to withstand more abuse than the garden-variety classic watches. Granted, very rarely do dive watches venture near an actual coral reef and pilot watches are almost never used for navigation, but the point is, they can. Tested to extreme G-forces, heights, depths, and temperature fluctuations, the average sports watch holds its own under all kinds of gruelling conditions with one metaphorical eye closed. Ultimately, whether active or not, we should own at least one sporty timepiece for everyday adventures. Think about it.
BREITLING Navitimer 46mm in steel
HAMILTON Khaki X-Wind in steel
SQUALE 1521 in steel
EDOX Hydro Sub North Pole Limited Edition in steel
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DIEVAS Maya in steel
RALPH LAUREN
LUMINOX
TAG HEUER
RL67 Chronometer 39mm in steel
Modern Marina Automatic in steel
Monaco Calibre 6 in steel
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COMPLICATED WATCHES Because all that passion for horology has to go somewhere
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ne of the greatest joys of watch collecting comes from observing through a sapphire case back the minute, finely finished components of a mechanical movement. This pleasure increases exponentially when the movement is a complicated one as this means there would be a lot more to admire. The gracefully rotating carriage of a tourbillon, the intricate system of star wheels and cogs of a perpetual calendar, and the strike train of a minute repeater are just some things which no watch aficionado ever tires of seeing. As traditional bastions of haute horlogerie, owning one of these should be a bucket-list event.
HERMES Arceau Lift in rose gold
A. LANGE & SĂ–HNE
MAURICE LACROIX
Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna in white gold
Les Classiques Chronographe Phases de Lune in steel
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BULGARI Octo Finissimo Tourbillon in platinum
BOVET Récital 16 in red gold
IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month in red gold and rubber coated titanium
FORTIS F-43 Flieger Chronograph Alarm GMT in steel
GREUBEL FORSEY GMT in platinum
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SHAPED WATCHES Because staying in shape also applies to watches
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staggering majority of the watches on the market come with classic round cases. We wonder if it’s a reflection of consumers’ tastes or do people buy them more simply because round watches exist in greater numbers. Whichever the case (pardon the pun) it is fun to veer off this well-trodden path to go for a shaped watch. Defined as anything other than round, they can be square, rectangular, tonneau, or cushion-shaped. Many of modern watchmaking’s most iconic timepieces are shaped watches. They include the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso, the Bell & Ross BR01, the Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex, the Corum Golden Bridge, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and many more.
PATEK PHILIPPE Nautilus Men Ref. 5990/1A-001 in steel
PANERAI Luminor Base 8 Days Acciaio in steel
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CVSTOS Gustave Eiffel in steel
GLASHÃœTTE ORIGINAL Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date in steel
FRANCK MULLER Vanguard Chronograph
JAEGERLECOULTRE Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 in pink gold
LONGINES
BELL & ROSS
Heritage 1935 in steel
BR 03-94 Carbon Orange in steel
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CUTTING-EDGE WATCHES
O
Because life’s too short to play it safe
n the furthest frontiers of high watchmaking, only a select group of watch companies strive continually for the next big thing in horological technology. Watches like the Ulysse Nardin Freak and the fantastical creations of MB&F and Urwerk, for instance, broke past the traditional boundaries to open up new possibilities, paving the way for a whole new language in watchmaking: Threedimensional timekeeping. Companies like TAG Heuer, Richard Mille, and Citizen constantly unveil revolutionary techniques that improve the reliability and chronometric performance of the mechanical watch. Having one on the wrist is like having front row seats to the heart of the action.
GIRARDPERREGAUX Tri-Axial Tourbillon in pink gold
LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Twin Chrono Grand Sport in white gold
TAG HEUER
RICHARD MILLE
V4 Tourbillon in titanium
M 36-01 G-Sensor Sebastien Loeb in titanium
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CHOPARD L.U.C 8HF Power Control in ceramic
MONTBLANC
CITIZEN
RADO
TimeWalker Chronograph 100 in steel, titanium and carbon
Eco-Drive Satellite Wave F100 in titanium
Hyperchrome Ceramic Touch Dual Timer in titanium and ceramic
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MÉTIERS D’ART WATCHES Because good art deserves a spot on the wrists too, not just on walls
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atchmaking is equal parts engineering and artisanship and this doesn’t ring truer than with métiers d’art timepieces. On top of the glorious micromechanical wonderland inside these watches, their exteriors have also been hand-decorated with traditional crafts like enamelling, engraving, guilloché, and gem-setting. The sky’s the limit when it comes to creativity in métiers d’art watches because the dial no longer just the face of the watch but a canvas for the enamellist’s ingenuity or a product of the engraver’s or gem-setter’s handicraft. Imagine finding art whenever you want the time – isn’t that amazing?
PIAGET Altiplano Scrimshaw
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JAQUET DROZ
VULCAIN
The Bird Repeater Openwork in white gold
Cloisonne Pegasus (Ref 200550.319L) in pink gold
ULYSSE NARDIN Classico Amerigo Vespucci in rose gold
CARTIER Ballon Bleu de Cartier Floral Marquetry Parrot in rhodium plated white gold
CORUM Heritage Artisans Feather Watch in red gold
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Midnight Planétarium in rose gold
VACHERON CONSTANTIN Hommage à l’Art de la Danse – The Rehearsal in white gold
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LIMITED EDITION WATCHES
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Because mainstream is too mainstream
he virtues of a limited edition watch are plenteous. Chief among all is the greater unlikelihood of seeing someone else wearing the same watch as you, especially if the watch you own is favoured by large numbers of yuppies or, worse, hipsters. Models like the IWC Big Pilot, Bell & Ross BR01, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, come to mind. Without having to sacrifice your passion for these brands or watches, and in order to save yourself the mental ridicule as you contemplate the ‘idiot across the room’, choosing a limited edition of the same watch is the ideal albeit more expensive solution. But trust us, it’s worth it.
OMEGA Speedmaster Professional Apollo 11 45th Anniversary (1,969 pieces in titanium)
TISSOT T-Race MotoGP Limited Edition 2014 Automatic (3,333 pieces in steel)
ZENITH
MIDO
El Primero Lightweight (250 pieces in carbon)
All Dial Gent Limited Edition 1918 (1,918 pieces in steel)
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CLAUDE BERNARD
BAUME & MERCIER
Birdland Limited Edition (650 pieces in steel)
Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon (30 pieces in red gold)
SINN U1000B EZM 6 (Available for order until 31 Dec 2014 in steel)
GLYCINE F104 Automatic Special 100 th Anniversary (250 sets- in steel)
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GEM-SET WATCHES Because precious stones should not only be for the ladies
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elieve it or not, there is a masculine way to wear diamonds or any other precious stones. OK, except pink diamonds. Stones add a touch of glamour not even the most perfectly polished metal surface can rival. The trick is to stick to baguette- and brilliant-cut stones; leave the marquise, pear, and princess cuts to the ladies. Setting is equally important. Gem-setting in timepieces run the gamut from diamond hour indexes and a single row of stones on the bezel to diamond crunchers with fully paved dials, cases, and bracelets, so there are good options for all levels of bling operations.
HUBLOT Classic Fusion Skull PavĂŠ in titanium
CHANEL
AUDEMARS PIGUET
J12 Flying Tourbillon in ceramic and white gold,
Royal Oak Chronograph in pink gold
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ROGER DUBUIS Hommage Automatic (Ref RDDBHO0566) in pink gold
ROLEX Cosmograph Daytona (Ref 116576TBR) in platinum
BREGUET Haute Joaillerie Minute Repeater in white gold
U-BOAT Chimera Sideview Diamonds in steel
ROMAIN JEROME DÃa de los Muertos in steel
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HIGHLIGHTS
ACCESSIBLE WATCHES Because the value proposition of a good timepiece is independent of price
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t is commonly believed that luxury mechanical watches are often tagged to high prices, and this is often the truth. Good things don’t come cheap, but not every watch comes with an astronomical price tag. If you know where to look, good value propositions can be found, even widely, and no matter how small your budget, there’s always a watch that can fit in. Consider the Swatch Sistem51, a watch that even seasoned collectors of ultra high-end pieces concede to be a quality value product and a fun and interesting watch to own.
DAVOSA
VICTORINOX
Ternos Professional Automatic in steel
Dive Master 500 Mechanical Chronograph Titanium Limited Edition in titanium
TUDOR Heritage Black Bay in steel
EPOS Collection Emotion Ref 3391 in steel
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INGERSOLL
WENGER
Santa Monica in rose gold-plated steel
Sea Force Chrono in steel
ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF Plus-Minus in steel
AVIATOR Douglas in steel
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BULGARI Bulgari Bulgari in steel
OMEGA Speedmaster Mark II in steel
MAURICE LACROIX Pontos S Supercharged in steel
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IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVII in steel
ROTARY Revelation in steel
MONTBLANC
RAYMOND WEIL
CARTIER
Meisterstück Heritage Moonphase in steel
Nabucco in titanium, steel and carbon
Tank Solo XL in steel
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A SPHERICAL WORLD A distillation of Cartier’s watchmaking style. A perfect blend of the past and the future. Since its launch, the Ballon de Cartier line has unrelentingly marched forward on an incredible journey to success. It is the timepiece destined for magnificence. WORDS GILANG PRATAMA
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he Ballon de Cartier watches are new generation of timepieces which fully take advantage of the highly lauded Cartier Manufacture craftsmanship and expertise, a constellation of time. From fine watchmaking to artistic crafts, from high jewellery to innovation, the Ballon de Cartier watches have taken inspiration from Cartier’s entire watchmaking heritage and have combined their forms to these high-precision crafts. Is it the roundness of its case, curved both on top and underneath? The guilloché of its dial and its sword-shaped hands combined with solid-gold links? The generous rounded crystal that amplifies and diffracts time? Or the blue bubble of the crown, set with a sapphire cabochon and protected by a metal arch? In every angle, the Ballon de Cartier intrigues our senses of style. To continue the success of its line, Cartier added four new creations and one high concept watch to the Ballon de Cartier collection. Without any doubt, the collection represent Cartier’s excellence in all areas of watchmaking: the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon enamel watch with 9452 MC movement, certified “Poinçon de Genève”; the Ballon Bleu de Cartier floral marquetry parrot watch; the Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat watch; and finally the Ballon Blanc de Cartier, a jewellery watch that is at once celestial and lunar. Together, these timepiece reaffirm the relevance of a form that continues to increase both its possibilities and the strength of a Maison that looks and sees far ahead.
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THE CONCEPT The Ballon’s basic shape was both enchanting and daring. It is so thrilling that it’s driven Cartier designers to slip a few challenges into it. And the best one is the creation of Cartier’s first concept watch: ID One. In 2009, the Cartier Manufacture illustrates its degree of inventiveness and research to another level in the form of Cartier ID One. What does ID stand for? ID, as in Ideas. ID as in Innovation & Development. ID One is a concept watch, a unique piece intended to express a vision, to indicate a direction; a direction that, according to Cartier, should be taken by the watchmaking industry – which for two centuries has done little more than reinterpret old answers to the challenge represented by ultra-precision. Crafted and assembled according to an innovative design, and fitted with cutting-edge materials and technology, the Cartier ID One concept watch was designed to run forever. It requires no adjustment during its entire existence.
HIGHLIGHTS
Ballon Bleu de Cartier Floral-Marquetry Parrot
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THE PIONEER It all started with a reinvigorated push in Cartier’s watchmaking division to return to its decidedly awesome horology roots in around 2005. A Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch was drafted in concept and refined through numerous processes. This watch was the first to be equipped with the new generation of Cartier fine watchmaking movements. In 2007, the “Ballon” came into full life and can be said to mark the Maison’s new era. Until 2008, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier flying tourbillon had only existed in a version with a diameter of 46 mm. This year, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier boasts a new version, the 39 mm, which is arguably a more refined and classic haute horlogerie elegance. Since 1909, Cartier has equipped its timepieces with a special coat of refined enamel in its dial. The enamel coating itself requires complex procedures and special expertise to craft. First, the metal base of the dial is guillochéd with a radiating motif of intersecting arcs known as flinqué, before being covered with the translucent enamel. The enamel starts out as a powder. The texture, composition and colour of which must be carefully chosen to ensure an even and pleasing appearance after firing. Control of the temperature during firing affects the entire Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat watch
St-Exupéry mysteriously disappeared in July 1944
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process. Any mistake at this stage would irreparably damage the dial, which, unfit for use, it would then be discarded. The Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon uses the same famous enamel dial and is even trickier to craft today due to its flying tourbillon: This phase is all the more delicate because the dial has a large opening through which the flying tourbillon carriage is visible. Once it has cooled down, the dial displays a radiant interplay of matter and luminosity, between the transparency of the layer of enamel, the texture of the guilloché and the refinement its blue hue. Today, in its new size, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon watch is defined by a unique elegance. Its new dimensions will appeal to men who yearn for a compact watch with a modern tourbillon and which, in addition to its soft lines, is characterised by great comfort. An exercise in harmony and proportion, today the case has a thickness of no more than 11.4 mm. The Ballon Bleu de Cartier 39 mm watch and its calibre 9452 MC bear the stamp of the “Poinçon de Genève”. Assembled and adjusted in the Cartier workshops in the heart of Geneva, the movement is designed and decorated according to this most demanding of standards.
HIGHLIGHTS
THE COLOUR The House of Cartier has always been obsessed with pursuing perfection in the most French way possible. In watchmaking, the Maison is renowned for magical timepieces such as the Tank which combines both subdued luxury and elegance. But it has also sought to blaze new frontiers by combining beauty, allure and innovation at once. This year, Cartier has taken up a new craft in watchmaking, the floral marquetry, which adorns and enlivens the dial of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier 42 mm watch. This is a watch at the crossroads of two kinds of craftsmanship: the immortalization of flowers and their vulnerable beauty, and craftsmanship of the dial’s precious nature. When the two combine, a kind of alchemy occurs, resulting in an explosion of colour. Blue and the orangeyellow of the plumage, deep black of the beak, emerald green of the eye and the sparkling white diamonds in the background of the dial and on the crown speaks very clearly and loudly that this is one of the Maison’s finest. Never has a Ballon de Cartier watch contained such a palette of colours!
THE STYLE The Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat is a statement of an elegant way of life. Suave and sophisticated, the subtle kind of luxury. For Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-flat watch, less is more. The appreciation the restrained style of the classic versions in pink gold with a grey or white flinqué dial, new proportions offering 40 mm of aesthetic refinement, or the personal extravagance of the diamond-set versions with a pink- or white-gold case. The case of this exceedingly fine piece has a thickness of 6.9 mm and contains the robust mechanism of a Manufacture movement with manual winding.
THE COMET Ballon Blanc de Cartier is a watch that unites Cartier’s jewellery and watchmaking secret. A precious and feminine delicacy, with a touch of mischief when the time is right, this timepiece declares itself as a jewellery watch. Imbued with weightlessness, the timepiece has made design codes its own and created a new face for itself, just as one might try out a different look. The case still retains its enchanting pebble shape, like a precious powder compact. With its mother-of-pearl flinqué dial and blued-steel swordshaped hands, the watch radiates Ballon de Cartier signature style. The little detour made by the Roman numerals and rail-track minute circle at four o’clock makes room for the coquettish addition of a single assertive diamond. The bracelet, consisting of five rows of perfect diamondset or smooth beads, has the allure of a rivière. Somewhat similar, yet slightly different, the Ballon Blanc de Cartier watch is a comet that slipped into the Cartier workshops one night when the moon was full and reappeared in the case of a Ballon de Cartier watch.
Cartier ID One Concept
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HIGHLIGHTS
DEFINING TRADITION The IWC Portofino has been an expression of understatement and good taste for 30 years. Thanks to its elegant, timeless design, this popular watch line has established itself as one of IWC Schaffhausen’s most successful lines and is equally popular with both men and women. WORDS GILANG PRATAMA
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ase sizes of 37 millimetres is arguably a lot more haute horlogerie compared to monstrous 46 millimetres or over, which very few people can look good in when attending black tie events. No, a proper dress watch should be around the size of a Portofino; in particular, these specific iterations: the Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase, the Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night, and about ten other different Portofino Midsize Automatic models that will be launched in 2014. These are all available with or without a diamond-set bezel, so take your pick. Three Portofino Automatic versions featuring 40 millimetre cases set with precious stones will also be available and round off the dazzling display. IWC Portofino truly reflects the timeless elegance of the Italian coastal resort.
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Portofino Midsize Automatic Moonphase in steel & leather
HIGHLIGHTS THE HISTORY OF PORTOFINO Getting its start in the late 1970s, in the midst of a chaotic rise of mass-produced quartz watches and the growing popularity of designer watches, IWC noted a steady demand for simple, classic models from watch enthusiasts who seek a return to haute horlogerie. These watches had to be reliable, retain their value and, above all, remain timeless. The IWC Lépine pocket watch immediately springs to mind as this was an elegant machine which features an unadulterated design, slim Roman numerals and small seconds at “6 o’clock”, and the potential to become an all-time classic timepiece. Taking this as their inspiration, IWC watchmakers succeeded in manufacturing a new wristwatch in the pocket-watch-style in record time. As yet without a name, this grande dame made its appearance in the IWC collection for the first time in 1981 and immediately caused a ripple, not least for its 46-millimetre case diameter. As a wristwatch, the position of the seconds display at “9 o’clock” was unusual to say the least. This positioning came about as the small seconds display was positioned in a straight line with the winding crown in the open-face pocket watch movement. Providing an aesthetic balance on the opposite side is a spectacular moon phase display made of genuine goldstone, an ornate feature crafted on the island of Murano, the centre of artisan glassmaking in Italy. In 1984, IWC Schaffhausen presented the first Portofino watch family. The launch, of course, took place in Portofino. The small, picturesque village on the Ligurian coast, which became the meeting point of the international jet set, was the epitome of Italian elegance in the 1950s and represented the values that IWC Portofino wanted to convey about its wearer. Its clear-cut proportions, original design and, not least of all, its impressive dimensions have helped to ensure that the original Portofino is a much sought-after rarity among collectors to this day.
Portofino Midsize Automatic Moonphase in red gold and leather
Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night
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PORTOFINO 2014 OVERVIEW Georges Kern, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen, explained the concept behind the new 2014 Portofino collection: “IWC has established itself as a global brand, and therefore keeps a close eye on what people are wearing when it comes to watches and jewellery, and what trends are developing. What we are currently observing is an increasing worldwide demand for watches set with diamonds.” IWC has responded to this demand with a subtle development of its classic Portofino watch family, whose brand core remains unchanged: extravagant beauty and timeless elegance. “With the Midsize collection, we are making this successful, classic watch line more interesting for customers with slimmer wrists,” explains Georges Kern. “The diamond-set models will appeal to anyone with a preference for wristwatches that combine understated design with a touch of the exquisite.” The flagship of 2014 Midsize collection is the stunning Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase in white gold. The dial, bezel and horns are decorated with a total of 174 pure white diamonds. The jet-black dial has several meticulously applied coats of lacquer and is the perfect backdrop to truly bring out the sparkle of the precious stones. In this timepiece, for the first time ever, the designers of IWC have depicted the entire moon phase display as a star-studded night sky, with the moon and stars appearing to float in infinite space. For the dials of the red-gold and stainless steel versions of the Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase, flawless, gently shimmering mother-of-pearl in white and black was chosen. The bezels, encrusted with 66 sparkling diamonds, are nothing short of magnificent. “The use of diamonds and mother-of-pearl represents something of a renaissance in the history of
our Portofino family,” explained Christian Knoop, Creative Director at IWC Schaffhausen. “But our take on luxury is a modern one. For us, it is discreet and unpretentious. The Portofino from IWC has retained the clean lines for which it has become so well known and so popular. It is underscored by the mother-of-pearl dials, as well as those with a sun pattern finish, both of which give the watches a wonderful depth and life of their own.” Meanwhile, the new Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night features a red-gold or stainless-steel case combined with the luxury of diamonds and mother-ofpearl, which caters to the nonchalance of a new and more mobile generation. It is the perfect companion for the traveling jet set, people who do business globally, and night owls. After all, Portofino has for decades been a popular destination for the international rich and famous. Thanks to a second time zone and 24 hour day/night display, the Portofino Midsize Automatic Day & Night ensures that even those whose parties turn night into day never lose track of the time. The Portofino Midsize Automatic features a 37-millimetre case, which comes in four red-gold and six stainless steel versions, each one either with or without a diamond set bezel. This puristic three-hand watch with date display has been the silent star of the IWC range for many years, so the fact that this classic is now available in a more opulent design with a slightly smaller case will no doubt come as good news to devotees of IWC Portofino. The sun-pattern finish on the dial and the meticulously finished case lend these timepieces a real air of luxury and exclusivity. The Portofino Automatic features a 40 millimetre case and date display and boasts three additional models in the new collection, each featuring a bezel set with precious stones. With the red-gold model, the timepiece offers a choice between silver-plated or slate-coloured dial. The Portofino Automatic in white gold is available exclusively with a silver-plated dial.
Portofino Midsize Automatic
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HIGHLIGHTS
Portofino Midsize Automatic Moonphase in red gold
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QUEST FOR HYBRIDISATION Crafting a movement out of machinery and liquid was almost a fantasy concept that until now exists only in the realm of science fiction. But HYT has finally managed to break the mold and turned fantasy into reality. WORDS GILANG PRATAMA
HYT H1 in titanium black
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HIGHLIGHTS
T
he concept of a water clock is not exactly new. As early as the age of the pharaohs, humans had recognized the concept of time and the need to tell time using whatever material and technology were available to them now. Today, we have come a long way from the days of gazing the stars to tell which direction is which; from sticking a pole on the ground to be able to tell the time according to the direction of the sun; and from fashioning crude yet marvelously brilliant clepsydras or water clocks. However, it has taken humans 3,400 years to finally figure out how to overcome the force of gravity and indicate time with liquid in a mechanical wristwatch. Many have dreamed of it – HYT has done it.
HYT H1 engine room
THE PRINCIPLE OF H1: HYDRO MECHANICS The idea that led to the H1 was simple and consisted of two flexible reservoirs fixed to each end of a capillary. In one was an aqueous liquid filled with fluorescein, and in the other, a transparent viscous liquid. To keep them separated, the repulsive force of the molecules in each liquid, with a meniscus to mark the boundary between the two, is created. There are two reservoirs at 06:00. What do they do? While the first compresses, the second expands, and it goes the other way around, resulting in the movement of the liquid in the capillary. As the hours go by, the fluorescent liquid advances. The meniscus, in the shape of a half moon, marks the breaking point with the other fluid in the tube, indicating the time. At 18:00, the fluorescent liquid comes back to its original position, going backwards. The secret that gets the reservoirs going? Two bellows made of a highly resistant, flexible electro-deposited alloy, each driven by a piston. And this is where watchmaking comes in to activate the hydro system.
Calibration in HYT Lab
H2 Priming Machine in HYT Lab
While the basic idea is simple, realising it is highly complex. Led by Bruno Moutarlier, two teams worked together. On the watchmaking front were Jean-François Mojon and his supporting team at Chronode. Working on the fluid operation was Preciflex, the patent registration company created by the founders of HYT – Patrick Berdoz, Lucien Vouillamoz and Emmanuel Savioz. Supporting Preciflex was Helbling Technik, from the medical world, where fluid motion is used in certain treatments. An incredible human adventure that propelled two worlds in principle at odds with each other towards a new joint era – that in which a unique technology would rock not only watchmaking but also medtech, because the pump system would lead the way for brandnew applications in that field. The mechanical movement is situated in the upper part of the watch, and propels a cam, which pushes the piston and activates the bellows. The main challenge lay in finding an interface between the mechanical movement and the hydro system in a closed, waterproof circuit – a task further complicated by the limited space available to house them both. They had to be assembled separately to keep them independent, and then made to operate simultaneously. This is a highly delicate modular integration, which involves other constraints, such as the installation of the dial in two parts, through the sides. A special liquid that must obey a set of watchmaking specifications was developed for this purpose. The liquid must be homogenous in colour and texture, and be resistant to vibrations, shocks and temperature changes; not to mention that alterations in the long term won’t happen. Finally, it has to have, unintuitively, foolproof water resistance. Up until now, seven patents have been registered for the technology and one for the design. This was a steep plunge into the unknown, which led to technical watchmaking feats bordering on nanotechnologies.
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Hydraulic force means pressure. When the fluorescein-loaded liquid has done a complete round and gets to 06:00 – 18:00, the issuing pump compresses, while the bellows receiver expands, generating resistance and consequently an increased energy requirement. To fix this, Preciflex developed revolutionary bellows made from an extremely fine alloy and which are highly supple and resistant. They are in fact inspired by the sensors used by NASA and their design had to be adapted to watchmaking requirements. Their specially researched shape allows for the reduction of energy required for their compression, absorbs shocks and ensures rock solid waterproofing. The process continues pretty much throughout all stages. During the entire development process, alongside the engineering, the amounts of liquid were the focus of great attention. Every microlitre counts, and the total volume in the closed circuit is extremely precise, as the system has to have a nanotechnology-worthy level of water resistance. Due to the unusual link between the crown and the liquid, a special time-setting system was designed in order to avoid the liquid moving around too fast and damaging the meniscus.
The taut, aggressive design by Sébastien Perret dictates the completely non-standard construction of the H1. The watch’s three-dimensional façade looks nice viewed from the front as well as from the side or threequarters through a sculptural 5mm sapphire crystal carved from the block, itself topped by a dome at 6 o’clock imposing its own rules. Particles of fluorescein spring from it, like sparks flying off the passing hours. The industrious pistons and bellows converge toward it. The apparently unstructured upper part of the watch dictates a geometric design composed of strata and reliefs. In the centre sits the minute regulator, overlapped by a spectacular small seconds display resembling a water wheel. At 02:30, a 65hour power-reserve hand indicates the remaining energy available across three arcs of a circle. The notches in its caseband visually extend the applied baignoire-type hourmarkers, while the crown dovetails at 02:30, as is thrust against the case by its sturdy crown guard. This “monster” measures a gargantuan 48.8 mm in diameter and 17.9 mm thick and is the perfect timepiece if you crave attention. It does, nonetheless, sits impressively lightly and well on the wrist.
The V shaped bellow of HYT H2
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HIGHLIGHTS
HYT H2 in titanium & white gold blue
H2: TOUR DE FORCE Bolstered by the enthusiastic reception to its launch in 2012, in which the watchmaker won the 2012 Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prize as the Best innovative Watch Concept (Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve), HYT is continuing its immersion in the world of haute horlogerie and pushing the limits of hydro mechanics yet further with the H2. So what else can they improve on this alreadyabsurd concept? Why, to further integrate fluidics into mechanical watchmaking, of course. With the H2, the entire architecture of the hybrid movement has been redesigned, deconstructed, integrated, coexisted and enclosed. In a Hydro Mechanical watch, these are not just aesthetic elements, but rather key components.
Firstly, the bellows are positioned at 6 o’clock in “V” formation and rising, which clearly evokes the most outstanding achievements of automotive and aeronautical engineering. This optimises the integration of the interface that connects the watch mechanisms with the fluidic system. Mirroring the pair of bellows, the balance spring presides at midday on its black bridge, the dome marking the rhythm of life in this unique world. At 3 o’clock is a “H-N-R” crown position indicator, which brings to mind the gearstick of a racing car. It is counterbalanced by the presence of another hand, which is also original and exclusive to HYT, a temperature indicator. Once the watch is being worn, this function enables the user to accurately find out when the fluid has reached the optimum temperature range. In the centre, a minute hand, designed in stages to perfectly fit the structure of the fluidic system jumps after 30 minutes to avoid the bellows. Like its predecessor, this piece boasts a diameter of 48.8 mm and a thickness of 17.9 mm, and a domed sapphire crystal. Housed in a black DLC titanium case with an intuitive fluidic display, the architecture is transparent and the fully visible movement accentuates the threedimensional depth that is characteristic of the brand. In terms of performance, the double barrel, visible through the back of the watch, offers an 8-day power reserve and the force required to orchestrate this mechanical feat. Cleverly using the visibility of the barrel spring, the power reserve is displayed in a truly innovative fashion via the openworked barrels.
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STÜHRLING SPECIAL
RADIATING EXCELLENCE Stührling Original unveiled their latest outlet at Plaza Indonesia WORDS GILANG PRATAMA
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ow shoppers can view the remarkable timepieces of Stührling Original at their latest outlet in Plaza Indonesia, Jakarta. In keeping with Stührling’s carefully manicured image, the new store is both smart and sophisticated, and fits perfectly with the brand’s vision. Located in one of the most elegant shopping places in the Indonesian capital, the outlet is bound to mesmerize shoppers who are looking for unique watches to wear to casual parties or around the house. Attempting to reflect Stührling’s craftmanship, the store features modern design and lots of façade in which to display its ever-growing collections. The outlet is the perfect way to show Stührling’s idea and vision. To build the finest timepieces with distinctions, craftsmanship and engineering, the brand draws from the legacy of Swiss
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watchmaking at affordable prices. Stührling Original is the embodiment of the arts and tradition of the Swiss watchmaking industry that anchors the very core of its foundation. In the Swiss-owned Stuhrling factory, the mechanical movements are tested to very high standard of accuracy. In this outlet, the tribute to excellent watchmaking craftmanship is on full display. Stührling Original showcased its finest collection of timepieces, both for men and women. Horology enthusiasts will be pleased with Stührling Original timepieces collections available in this outlet, which include the enchanting and extravagant Special Reserve collection, the preplexing and intricate Tourbillon collection, the flawless perfectionism of Legacy men and women collection, or the all elegant signature Prestige collection.
STÜHRLING SPECIAL
STÜHRLING PLAZA INDONESIA Stührling Plaza Indonesia level 2 unit # E031A /B Jalan MH. Thamrin Kav 28-30. Jakarta 1350 Indonesia Tel. 6221- 2992 3664 Tel. 6221- 3433 7860
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FEATURES
HIDDEN ABILITY
Levers masquerading as lugs, crowns doubling up as pushers, and function control bezels are some key examples of ingenious case design, but hidden activators are by no means novel WORDS SU JIA XIAN
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hroughout history, watchmakers have done their best to conceal the crowns, buttons, or slides used to set, wind, or activate functions on timepieces. One of the earliest, and one so widely used it’s taken for granted, is keyless winding. Before its invention in 1845 by the French watchmaker Jean Adrien Philippe – the same one who co-founded Patek Philippe – pocket watches had to be wound externally with keys, which had to be carried around and could get misplaced. A consequence of necessity and practicality, Philippe’s invention meant winding was expediently done via the crown. Modern watchmaking has advanced considerably since then, with the rationale for such streamlining as much about aesthetics as functionality. Often, watchmakers seek to simplify the lines of the case by eliminating buttons or pushers, concealing the interface between wearer and wristwatch, much like how the iPhone did away with the mobile phone keypad. Because calendar mechanisms have the most indications to set, there are plenty of pushers or buttons to get rid of, making them an obvious candidate. Conventional watches have pushers set into the sides of the case, which inconveniently call for a stylus or toothpick, which are prone to accidentally scratching the case with a slip of the hand.
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Vil C
Blancpain lleret Perpetual Calendar 8 Days
FEATURES
Raymond Weil Maestro Automatic Moon Phase
Blancpain was an early mover when it introduced patented under-lug correctors for its perpetual calendar in 2005 – hiding the correctors and getting rid of the setting stylus at the same time. Having since made their way into other Blancpain calendar watches, the under-lug correctors are essentially tiny levers hidden underneath the lugs, with one for each calendar display. They are easily operated with the fingers, requiring no tools. Mechanically, these hidden correctors are slightly more elaborate than traditional pushers, but still operate in a similar manner. Pressing the corrector pushes a small lever inside the case that’s connected to the calendar display. Three years ago, Raymond Weil unveiled a similar, though less sophisticated system in its Maestro Phase de Lune. Here the recessed pushers were turned into the push buttons integrated into the sides of the case, camouflaging, but not eliminating them. Others have gone a step further and gotten rid of correctors of any sort. IWC’s Da Vinci perpetual calendar and chronograph of 1985 was a landmark, for it had only the crown to set the perpetual calendar – in one direction, forward. Having since become the standard perpetual calendar for IWC, the mechanism allowed for easy setting, right until the calendar was set past the actual date, which meant a wait for it to catch up. And because the Da Vinci also displayed the year – in all four digits – once it was too far past, the watch had to return to a watchmaker to reset the calendar.
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Kurt Klaus
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THE ROLEX SKY-DWELLER’S ANNUAL CALENDAR, LOCAL AND HOME TIME ZONES ARE SET VIA THE CROWN, WITH ROTATING BEZEL TO SELECT THE CROWN FUNCTIONS
Rolex Sky-Dweller
Just over 10 years later, Ulysse-Nardin unveiled the Perpetual Ludwig, named after its creator, the inventive Ludwig Oechslin. This added the convenience of setting the calendar both ways via the crown. More recently, the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual 1 accomplished the same convenience. And the most surprising addition to the list is the Rolex Sky-Dweller. Its annual calendar, local and home time zones are all set via the crown, with rotating bezel to select the crown functions of setting or winding. Chronographs, being the complications with the highest degree of user interaction, are the most frequently experimented with. Solutions to the typical two button, start-stop-reset setup have ranged from co-axial buttons in the crowns, to the crowns themselves. The most common is the monopusher, or single button chronograph. Such chronographs have a pusher integrated into the crown, or sometimes the crown itself also functions as a button. Single-button chronographs were found in pocket watches, which evolved into early wristwatches that were exactly the same. In fact, the two-button chronograph only came about in 1934 courtesy of Breitling, though it is now the de facto standard.
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Ulysse Nardin 150 th Anniversary Perpetual Calendar Ludwig
FEATURES
H. MOSER & CIE PERPETUAL 1 OFFERS THE CONVENIENCE OF SETTING THE CALENDAR BOTH WAYS VIA THE CROWN
H. Moser & Cie Perpetual 1
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FEATURES Jaquet Droz La Chaux de Fonds Chronograph Monopusher
Longines ColumnWheel Single PushPiece Chronograph
But because twin-button chronographs are now common, monopusher chronographs are well regarded by collectors for their originality. Single-button chronographs are desirable enough that several chronograph movements originally designed as two-button have been deftly modified to remove one button – not an overly complex endeavour. Longines, for instance, uses a version of the Valjoux 7750 tweaked to have one button in the crown, and also a column wheel instead of cam to control the chronograph functions. And both Jaquet Droz and Blancpain have adopted the more sophisticated Frederic Piguet 1185 in single-button format. One of the earliest monopusher chronographs in modern watchmaking was the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir, introduced in 1998. At the time, the movement inside was one of the first new chronograph movements introduced in years. Soon after, it was supplied to other marques like Ulysse-Nardin, Girard-Perregaux, Franck Muller, and De Bethune. But this movement’s origins were as intriguing as its technical features. The calibre was developed by Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA), comprised of Denis Flageollet, François-Paul Journe, and Vianney Halter – a combustible mix of some of the brightest watchmaking minds of our time. THA, as many know, is now defunct, but each of the trio has gone on to become famous in their own right.
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Blancpain Villeret Single-Pusher Chronograph
FEATURES
Ball Engineer Master II Slide Chronograph
In 2009, an uncommon take on the monopusher chronograph arrived from Habring2, an Austrian independent watchmaker run by husband and wife Richard and Maria Habring. That year, Habring2 launched the COS Chronograph, short for “Crown Operation System”. The COS took its inspiration from a patent filed by Nicolet Watch S.A. in 1955, though the COS is an entirely different mechanism and the only one of its kind today. The COS chronograph works via turning the crown – anticlockwise to start, clockwise to stop, and once more clockwise to reset. This eliminates buttons of any sort in the case or crown, reducing the number of seals needed and improving water resistance. What makes it notable is not just the crown-activated chronograph, but also the declutching mechanism that enables the wearer to wind the watch, while being able to instantaneously operate the chronograph when necessary. Earlier this year, Ball Watch revealed something similar with the Engineer Master II Slide Chronograph. A slide integrated into the bezel at nine o’clock activates the chronograph – a clockwise motion to start or stop, and the reverse to reset the chronograph.
THE HABRING2 COS CHRONOGRAPH WORKS VIA TURNING THE CROWN – ANTICLOCKWISE TO START, CLOCKWISE TO STOP, AND ONCE MORE CLOCKWISE TO RESET Habring2 COS Chronograph
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FEATURES Ressence Type 3
Using the bezel to operate functions on the watch is an obvious, and well-tested idea. One of the most famous implementations of this idea is the Ulysse Nardin Freak, which got its name from the fact that it looks like no other watch out there. Certainly Ulysse Nardin’s most famous timepiece, the Freak has neither hands nor a crown, or even a dial. Instead, the movement is the minute hand, with a disc under for the hours, all of which sit atop a giant mainspring almost the diameter of the case. Setting the time means rotating the knurled bezel on the front, and winding the enormous barrel requires turning the bezel on the back. Taking the idea even further, Ressence last year premiered the Type 3, a watch wound and set via turning the back. Founded by Benoit Mintiens, a Belgian designer who prizes minimalist design, the Type 3 has an oil-filled capsule for the time display. Smooth and round like a pebble, the time display of the Type 3 is highly legible from all angles as the hands and numbers appear to be printed on the underside of the glass, an optical effect of the oil below. Because the time display is filled with oil, it has to be hermetically sealed and separate from the movement below. The solution was to use magnets to drive and set the time display. Turning the watch over engages the magnets, allowing for time setting via turning the case back bezel, and turning it back right side up disengages them. The magnets have no effect on its timekeeping as the movement is protected by a soft iron cage.
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Ulysse Nardin Blue Cruiser
FEATURES Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 45 Minute Repeater Tourbillon
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon
A COMMON INTERPRETATION OF THE BEZEL ACTIVATOR IS IN MINUTE REPEATERS WITH CORUM, HUBLOT AND ROGER DUBUIS AMONGST BRANDS THAT OFFER THIS FUNCTION
A more common interpretation of the bezel activator is in minute repeaters. Because minute repeaters typically have slides on the case side to wind a small spring that powers the repeater strike, that is easily translated into the bezel. Corum, Hublot and Roger Dubuis are amongst the brands that offer minute repeaters activated through the bezel. These operate on the same principle – rotating the bezel starts the repeater.
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FEATURES
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon
Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX2 Transponder
At BaselWorld this year, Bulgari struck upon (no pun intended) an ingenious way of hiding the repeater slide with its Daniel Roth L’Ammiraglio Del Tempo – pulling the lower left lug of the watch starts the repeater. This is possible because the lower left lug is not a lug at all, instead the strap is screwed directly into the watchcase – shaped like a double ellipse in the signature form of Daniel Roth – and the left lug is actually a lever in disguise. Also out of sight is the button in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon, though not by choice. Because the watch is so thin – the razor-edged case is just 7.9 mm high – the button for the repeater lacks a spring so once depressed, it stays flush with the case. A slide on the case is necessary to nudge the button back out for use. It was back in 2006 when Jaeger-LeCoultre really made a striking statement with a truly hidden mechanism. The AMVOX2 Chronograph
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launched that year used the watchcase itself to activate the chronograph. Pressing on the crystal at 12 would start or stop the chronograph, and doing the same at six o’clock reset it. This was possible thanks to the case construction with the movement encased in a pivoting capsule mounted on an outer cradle. Pressing the crystal on either side causes the capsule to pivot, causing a ball and socket to push a cam inside the cradle. The cam pushes levers mounted on ball bearings, which are also inside the cradle, that in turn activate the chronograph. And in order to prevent accidental use of the chronograph, a sliding lock is incorporated into the case. The imagination of watchmakers when it comes to disguising the buttons or slides needed to operate a wristwatch seemingly knows no bounds. Many of these innovations remain fresh, but as Jean Adrien Philippe demonstrated, if the invention is compelling enough, it will not stay hidden for long.
FEATURES
Bulgari Daniel Roth L’Ammiraglio Del Tempo
BULGARI DANIEL ROTH L’AMMIRAGLIO DEL TEMPO’S LOWER LEFT LUG IS ACTUALLY A REPEATER LEVER
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FEATURES Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Double Mystery Tourbillon
A QUESTION OF CALIBRE An in-house movement isn’t necessarily superior to one that’s sourced externally because quality stems from inherent virtues, not just production origin WORDS SU JIA XIAN
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FEATURES
IN THE 90S, THERE WERE MORE EL PRIMERO MOVEMENTS IN OTHER BRANDS’ WATCHES THAN ZENITH’S OWN
Zenith El Primero Lightweight
I Exploded view of Zenith El Primero 400 caliber
n-house movements in watchmaking are a relatively new phenomenon, despite the frequency and authority with which the term is bandied about. Historically, the Swiss watch industry was heavily segmented all along the supply chain, a cottage industry of workshops big and small. Watch movements started with the constituent components. Specialists who focused on a particular part and nothing else made the screws, gears, levers and so on. Ebauches, movements blanks sans escapement, balance and mainspring, were
produced by movement makers like LeCoultre, Valjoux, and also less familiar names like Victorin Piguet and A. Schild. An etablisseur, or assembler, would then finished these components, assemble them, add the dial, hands and case, resulting in a timepiece. But over the course of the 20th century, this structure was gradually broken down. Swiss firms imported manufacturing techniques from American watchmakers, pioneers in the field of mass-producing timepieces. And the industry itself underwent consolidation, first during the Great Depression, which
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Rolex GMT Master II
Seiko Grand Seiko
THERE ARE FEW INHOUSE MOVEMENTS – ROLEX ONES BEING NOTABLE EXCEPTIONS – WITH COMPARABLE VOLUMES AND RELIABILITY AS ETA CALIBRES
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Rolex SkyDweller
FEATURES TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 36 Flyback Chrono
Bulgari Octo Velocissimo
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang
forced firms to merge, combining Omega and Tissot for instance. And then the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s compelled an even more drastic whittling down of the industry. Zenith illustrates the evolution of the industry perfectly. By the 1920s, Zenith was one of the biggest watchmakers in Switzerland, significantly vertically integrated with an annual output in the hundreds of thousands. But by 1969, the year Zenith unveiled its El Primero chronograph movement, its best days were behind it. Then began a long fall from grace. By the 1990s, Zenith was busy supplying the El Primero to a long list of brands, most notably Rolex and Ebel. In fact, there were more El Primero movements in other brands’ timepieces than Zenith’s own. This was an aftereffect of the Quartz Crisis, which saw many of the movement makers disappear, either into liquidation or the arms of a stronger rival. Today, the pendulum has swung in the opposite direction. Zenith has insufficient capacity to produce enough movements for itself, and its sister companies in the LVMH stable, namely Hublot, TAG Heuer and Bulgari. Many brands have invested heavily in vertical integration, spurred on by the announcement in 2002 by the Swatch Group that it would stop supplying components and movements to brands outside the group. That decision has
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FEATURES
Piaget 930P
Cartier Calibre 1904 MC
been challenged and appealed numerous times over the years, but it is now certain that the Swatch Group will eventually stop supplies. In the mean time, however, brands have been busy creating their own factories and movements. There have even been companies like Sellita that created perfect substitutes for ETA calibres. But an in-house movement still remains the holy grail of most brands. In-house movements are touted as being mysteriously superior to outsourced movements. While they are certainly less common, their superiority is no sure thing. Being a mechanical product, a watch movement is more reliable the larger the volume of production is, just as it is with an automobile. ETA, the most common supplier of movements to the Swiss watch industry,
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Panerai P5000
FEATURES Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra Platinium
Breguet Classic Tourbillon QP
IN-HOUSE MOVEMENTS OFFER AN AURA OF EXCLUSIVITY, SINCE THEY ARE, BY DEFINITION, PROPRIETARY TO THE BRAND. THIS IS WHAT MAKES THEM DESIRABLE
is the biggest movement maker in Switzerland. Its products have an unparalleled record of reliability, robustness and ease of servicing. There are few in-house movements – Rolex ones being a notable exceptions – with comparable volumes and reliability. But in-house movements do offer an aura of exclusivity, since they are, by definition, proprietary to the brand. This is what makes them desirable to a brand, since it in turn becomes desirable for the consumer. But the definition of what makes an in-house movement is fuzzy. Some brands are unquestionably in-house when it comes to their movements. Rolex and Seiko are obvious contenders. For many other brands, the definition sometimes blur around the edges, or stretched and massaged into shape. Because of the looseness and frequency of the in-house appellation, its value has been somewhat diluted. Breguet, for instance, long relied solely on movement maker Nouvelle Lemania for its movements. But now Lemania is known as Manufacture Breguet. The Richemont Group, on the other hand, has an entity known as ValFleurier that carries out development and manufacturing of parts and whole movements for brands across the group like Cartier, Piaget and Panerai. As a consequence, the movements of these brands share uncannily similar technical features, leaving no doubt as to their common origins. There are no clear answers here. What is relevant to the consumer is less the
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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with Calibre 2385
origins of a movement design, but rather its inherent qualities. Technical features like a free-sprung balance would indicate a more sophisticated calibre, and finishing like striping and bevelling points towards effort put into decoration. Some of the most accomplished or storied movements today are supplied to brands outside the maker. A compact, sophisticated calibre, the Frederic Piguet 1185 set the template for many of today’s chronographs, with its features like the vertical clutch, one-piece reset hammer and column wheel. Today, Frederic Piguet has been integrated into Blancpain, but it is used by brands as diverse as Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, which in no way diminishes the quality of the movement. Likewise, the Zenith El Primero is one of the most famous chronograph movements in production today, in large part thanks to it being one of the first automatic chronographs movements ever made – and it’s also the only one of the early contenders that’s still in production. Having an El Primero inside is almost a badge of honour for a timepiece, hence the liberal use of the name even with brands other than Zenith. And it is worth noting that in-house movements, when made by a small brand in tiny quantities, will tend to have more teething problems than one made in large quantities. So an in-house origin is by no means an assurance or quality or reliability. The bottom line is an in-house movement can be a lousy timekeeper, while a run-of-the-mill ETA 2892 can keep time like a champ.
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Blancpain Chronographe Flyback with Calibre F185
FEATURES
HERE’S A NON-EXHAUSTIVE TABLE SHOWING SOME MAJOR MOVEMENT SUPPLIERS AND THEIR CLIENTS, WHICH IS USEFUL IN ILLUSTRATING THE TANGLED RELATIONSHIPS IN THE SWISS WATCH INDUSTRY SWATCH GROUP
ETA Lemania
Omega, Breitling, Panerai, Tissot, Longines, Chopard, Franck Muller, Cartier, Tudor Breguet, Omega
Frederic Piguet
Blancpain, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaquet Droz
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Ralph Lauren, Alfred Dunhill, Vacheron Constantin
Piaget
Cartier, Panerai, Ralph Lauren
Minerva
Montblanc, Panerai
Manufacture Stern 1898
Van Cleef & Arpels
Zenith
Hublot, Louis Vuitton, TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Urwerk
La Fabrique du Temps
Louis Vuitton, Laurent Ferrier, Ralph Lauren
SANDOZ FOUNDATION
Vaucher
Hermes, Richard Mille, Parmigiani
KERING
Girard-Perregaux
MB&F
CITIZEN
La Joux-Perret
Arnold & Son, Louis Vuitton
INDEPENDENTS
Sellita
TAG Heuer, Zenith, IWC
Soprod
Hautlence, Sinn, Sarparneva, Hermès
Renaud & Papi
Audemars Piguet, Cartier, Richard Mille
Concepto
Romain Jerome
RICHEMONT
LVMH
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Watch 1 The unique tourbillon bridge of this awe-inspiring timepiece sparked new questions about the future of mechanical watchmaking
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FEATURES
TOURBILLONS By SJX WOW collaborates with eminent horology blog WatchesBySJX in this one-of-a-kind photo spread showcasing some of the most fabled tourbillon watches in modern watchmaking WORDS CELINE YAP  PHOTOGRAPHY SU JIA XIAN
Vacheron Constantin Malte Tourbillon Openworked Instantly recognised for its maltese cross-shaped tourbillon carriage, the finishing on this component is nothing short of breath-taking
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Patek Philippe 10 Day Tourbillon Ref. 5101P The Gyromax balance wheel seen here is absolutely unique to Patek Philippe and is as exalted as the tourbillon itself
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon 1 First released in 2005, this triple-axis flying tourbillon invites you to admire every part of the rotating mechanism and from every angle
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Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal An offspring of the famous ID One, this tourbillon sits on a bridge made of carbon crystal, which is also the material used for its lever and escape wheel
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Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Contemporain The beautiful architecture of this timepiece is underscored by the sapphire crystal tourbillon bridge suspended from the minutes track
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Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon Mechanical and fine arts unite in this watch with beautiful flinquĂŠ enamel and a fully exposed tourbillon with a C-shaped carriage
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FEATURES
De Bethune DB28T Indisputably state-of-the-art, this high-speed 30-second tourbillon is assembled with a silicon-white gold balance and a silicon escape wheel
About The Photographer Popular horology blog WatchesBySJX is run by Su Jia Xian, an avid watch collector and connoisseur extraordinaire. He frequently photographs watches of his own, his friends, as well as those of fellow collectors he meets from time to time. Through his images, he hopes to capture the staggering amount of details within the watches and share them with everyone.
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HIGH TIME
Manufactures develop diffusion lines in a bid to offer watch buyers better quality and performance without losing their base audience WORDS SU JIA XIAN & CELINE YAP
B
rands, in any industry, often seek to move upmarket to increase their brand equity, margins and pricing power. But some firms seek to stay in their current segment while still have a presence at the higher end. One solution is to create a second, pricier brand. The automotive business offers many examples: Toyota did it successfully with Lexus, though it took a long time for Lexus to gain traction. Mercedes-Benz failed with Maybach, which closed recently. In watchmaking, this two-tier strategy has been tried by several companies with varying degrees of success.
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FEATURES
CARTIER FINE WATCHMAKING Though best known as the jeweller to kings, Cartier has a long history as a watchmaker, or more specifically a designer and retailer of timepieces. Its primary contribution to the history of watchmaking has been its iconic designs, particularly watches with form cases like the Santos and Tank, which have enjoyed nearly unparalleled longevity. The Tank for instance, is closing in on its centenary, yet it remains a desirable and bestselling timepiece. In the 1920s, Cartier made some of the most desirable timepieces of the period, thanks to its joint venture with watchmaker Edmond Jaeger. Known as the European Watch & Clock Co. (EWC), the partnership supplied high-end movements to Cartier for its high-end timepieces like minute repeaters and perpetual calendars. These blanks for EWC movements came from the firm of LeCoultre, which would eventually join with Jaeger to form Jaeger-LeCoultre. It was only in 1998 that Cartier attempted to reclaim its history as a high horology watchmaker with the launch of Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP). The line was both a recap of Cartier’s most notable historical timepieces and case forms, as well as a platform for it to unveil various complications. As it was in its EWC heyday, the movements for the CPCP line were sourced from a veritable who’s who of watchmaking, including JaegerLeCoultre, Piaget, Girard-Perregaux, as well as Renaud & Papi. Many of the timepieces in the CPCP range were inspired by the EWC originals of the 1920s. In fact, certain pieces, like the Tortue Monopusher Chronograph for example, were almost replicas of vintage models.
Cartier Tank Louis Cartier Skeleton
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Day & Night
More importantly, the CPCP was an outlet for Cartier’s nascent effort in developing in-house movements. And so, a decade after the CPCP range was introduced, it was replaced with the Fine Watchmaking collection (FWM). This is the culmination of several years’ investment in its watchmaking division, with most of the movements in the FWM collection being developed or made in-house. Though the CPCP timepieces were well regarded by both watch aficionados and Cartier fans, they never sold in large numbers, largely because they were strikingly similar to entry level Cartier timepiece. The fit and finish of the CPCP models were leagues above that of their affordable cousins – CPCP dials were silvered solid gold discs for instance – but from a distance, they were hard to differentiate. This encapsulates a common obstacle for two-tier brands – making the client pay more for a better product that seemingly looks the same, one reason why Maybach failed for Mercedes. Consequently, the strategy for the FWM line is to make distinctively different timepieces, while still keeping Cartier’s signature design elements like the case shapes and Roman numerals. It’s no surprise that the bestselling models in the range are the skeleton timepieces. These are clearly Cartier watches with their distinctive form cases, but they cannot be confused with anything lower down in the product line-up.
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OMEGA MASTER CO-AXIAL
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Co-Axial
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Embraced dearly for its deep commitment to some of the greatest events in the contemporary culture, Omega is a brand close to the hearts of an extremely wide audience, from the average man or woman on the street, to the most fastidious watch collector. Correspondingly, its vast product line begins with entry-level pieces like quartz-driven or mechanically powered Constellations, leading up to variations of the iconic Seamaster and Speedmaster Professional, and finally more sophisticated offerings like the De Ville. Since 1999, however, Omega has been associated with one of modern watchmaking’s most important new discoveries – the co-axial escapement. Devised by the late great master watchmaker, Dr George Daniels, the co-axial escapement was the first practical new watch escapement to be invented in some 250 years, primed to challenge the ubiquity of the traditional Swiss lever escapement which had been the de facto movement escapement used by a staggering majority of today’s watch companies, large and small. The first fully in-house produced collection by Omega came on the market in 2007 presented in the Calibre 2500 which is based on an ETA movement, noting well that since ETA is a company of the Swatch Group, Calibre 2500 may thus be considered in-house.
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Omega subsequently released the Calibre 8500 family of movements in 2011 which not only operated with the coaxial escapement, but also had a silicon hairspring named Si14 by the manufacture. By this time, more than 10 years after Omega started marketing the co-axial escapement, watch aficionados all over the world have understood and accepted this technology, and pockets of the mass audience have become acquainted with the concept. Essentially, a mechanism that promises greater reliability and ultimately offers a four-year warranty as compared to the average two goes a long way in garnering consumer confidence. This year, Omega set a new standard for its coaxial movements by introducing the Master Co-Axial line. Distinguished by a trifecta of benefits – co-axial escapement, Si14 silicon balance spring, and anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss – the Master Co-Axial collection of watches are the corollary of decades of research and development on Omega’s part. Priced at around 20 per cent higher than regular co-axial models, this new collection heralds a new era for Omega, one that places it parallel with most cuttingedge companies in the watch business.
THIS YEAR, OMEGA SET A NEW STANDARD FOR ITS CO-AXIAL MOVEMENTS BY INTRODUCING THE MASTER CO-AXIAL LINE DISTINGUISHED BY A TRIFECTA OF BENEFITS
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MONTBLANC VILLERET 1858 In the 1990s, Montblanc rose to prominence as the unchallenged maker of luxury pens. Its stores could be found in all the world’s key cities and its white star logo peeked out of thousands of pockets. Montblanc was so successful that the company had the lion’s share, in fact, practically a monopoly, on the high-end pen market. But that success would prove to be the greatest obstacle for its next stage of growth. Montblanc unveiled its first ever timepieces in 1997 – it had never sold watches before – which were modest, accessibly priced watches. The early Montblanc timepieces were simple, ETApowered watches. They were distinctly mid-market, the range even included gold-plated models. Then, Montblanc
sought to diversify upwards. So in 2007, it acquired Minerva, a watchmaker with a prized heritage. Montblanc was meant to inherit Minerva’s history as a noted maker of stopwatches and chronographs. But Montblanc acquired Minerva amidst a drastic reinvention of the brand by its previous owner, a controversial Italian financier, Emilio Gnutti. Though Minerva was historically a familyowned, mid-range brand, Gnutti grandly repositioned it as a manufacturer of topend chronograph wristwatches with price tags in the five and six figures. To help accomplish that goal, Demetrio Cabiddu, a respected watchmaker of old school horology, was recruited and he remains at Minerva until recently when he retired. Montblanc continued that strategy,
branding the new line Collection Villeret 1858, after Minerva’s hometown and year of founding. Made in tiny quantities, only around 200 watches a year left the workshop, the Villeret timepieces displayed movements with an admirable level of decoration and a traditional styling often missing from modern chronographs. But they were so far removed from Montblanc’s typical price segment that even Minerva’s heritage and know-how did little to help. And the Minerva venture was undertaken as Montblanc itself endeavoured to move its own midrange watches upscale. This included the introduction of its first in-house movement, the chronograph calibre found in the Nicolas Rieussec line.
Montblanc Homage to Nicolas Rieussec Lorem Ipsum
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Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Pulsograph
MADE IN TINY QUANTITIES, THE VILLERET TIMEPIECES DISPLAYED MOVEMENTS WITH AN ADMIRABLE LEVEL OF DECORATION AND A TRADITIONAL STYLING OFTEN MISSING FROM MODERN CHRONOGRAPHS
Despite the admirable products, pens continue to be the bulk of Montblanc’s sales, along with leather goods. Though its watch business grew appreciably last year, the other segments, which suffer lower margins than watches, did not. And so the company posted the lowest growth amongst Richemont’s various divisions, and Jérôme Lambert, formerly the CEO of JaegerLeCoultre, was tasked to run Montblanc. Lambert’s initial strategy has been to move aggressively into a more affordable price range, with a reduced emphasis on the Minerva brand, an apparent reversal of the initial strategy. Amongst its new products presented at SIHH 2014 in January was the Meisterstück Heritage Pulsograph, utilising the Minerva 13.20 movement, priced a third less than the equivalent Villeret 1858 model. The Minerva or Villeret branding is absent from its dial, as it is on the other new models equipped with Minerva movements.
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CHOPARD L.U.C In 1996 Chopard built a factory dedicated to making high-end movements. The new facility was located in Fleurier, two hours from Zurich in the canton of Neuchâtel. The factory made movements destined for the then newly unveiled line of high-end timepieces, L.U.C. Named after the initials of the firm’s founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, the L.U.C line was conceived by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, copresident of the company and eldest son of the firm’s owner. The new calibre in the L.U.C. line was the 1.96, a refined and robust automatic movement equipped with a micro-rotor. It was developed by Chopard in collaboration with Michel Parmigiani, the noted watchmaker and restorer, whose own eponymous brand was also situated in Fleurier. Finished to an exemplary level, the movement qualified for the Geneva Seal and was also COSC certified as a chronometer. In those days, that made it a really high-end timepiece. Praise was heaped on the 1.96 movement, with collectors praising the technical sophistication and high level of movement decoration. Even today, it is one of the most acclaimed automatic movements on the market. And since then, Chopard has unveiled a slew of L.U.C movements, including several tourbillons, a chronograph, as well as a perpetual calendar. Solid construction and praiseworthy finishing are common traits in L.U.C movements. Unsurprisingly the subsequent L.U.C calibres after the 1.96 are highly regarded by collectors.
Chopard L.U.C Calibre 1.96 with Geneva Seal and COSC certification
Chopard L.U.C Tourbillon QF Fairmined
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The in-house developed, designed, and produced L.U.C 11CF movement driving the Chrono One
CHOPARD HAS NOBLY PERSISTED WITH THE L.U.C COLLECTION, A MOVE MADE POSSIBLE BY THE FACT THAT THE COMPANY IS FAMILY OWNED AND FINANCIALLY STABLE
Chopard L.U.C Chrono One
But the L.U.C line has not enjoyed sales commensurate with its critical success, with one reason being the muddled aesthetic identity of the L.U.C collection. It has remained a niche product nearly two decades after its launch. Chopard continues to derive most of its sales from its flagship Happy Diamonds timepieces for ladies. This illustrates a two-fold problem. The first is the difficulty of breaking into high horology, a bastion defended by long established brands like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. The second challenge is one that is faced by all two-tier brands: The struggle to reshape a brand to be recognised for something far beyond its traditional competence, which in Chopard’s case is jewelled, ladies’ timepieces. But Chopard has nobly persisted with the L.U.C collection, made possible by the fact that the company is family owned and financially stable. A surprising twist to this tale came late last year, when Chopard announced it was reviving Ferdinand Berthoud, an 18th century French chronometer maker that was one of the most respected brands of its age. Like L.U.C, Ferdinand Berthoud will be located in Fleurier, with a focus on high-end watchmaking. Chopard will reveal more about its second high horology brand in due course.
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GRAND SEIKO Seiko’s parallels to Toyota and Lexus are obvious. Seiko, like Toyota, is a worldconquering producer of mass produced, durable items. But like Toyota, Seiko also makes high-end products, namely the Grand Seiko. Seiko, like other manufacturers who have adopted similar strategies, faces the common challenge of having to market and sell its low-end watches to pay the bills, while desiring to grow the appeal of Grand Seiko. The fact that Grand Seiko is only one adjective removed from the main brand only emphasises the difficulty of achieving that. Remarkably, Seiko has a significant track record as a manufacturer of ultra-precise chronometer timepieces. Grand Seiko was conceived in 1960 as a chronometer wristwatch, a spin-off from Seiko’s decade of success in Swiss chronometer trials. By the end of the decade, Seiko won nearly all the timing trials in Switzerland for chronometer movements, causing consternation and embarrassment in the Alpine nation. Seiko’s success in those contests is regarded as a key factor in the termination
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of the time trials by the late 1960s. And in demonstration of how long memories endure, when the chronometer contests were reintroduced in 2009, only European-made watches are permitted to enter. Despite that success, it wasn’t immunue to the Quartz Crisis. It unveiled a mechanical Grand Seiko movement in 1968, just as the quartz watch began its long march to world domination. Subsequent Grand Seiko developments were all quartz, until 1998, when Seiko launched the first new mechanical Grand Seiko calibre in two decades. Since then, Seiko has grown the Grand Seiko collection, but in a cautious manner typical of a Japanese corporation. Though the collection is diverse, there are few complications for a collector to choose from. Dual time zones and chronographs are the most complicated movements in the line-up. That narrow focus is premised on the original purpose of Grand Seiko, which is to be a practical, everyday watch, thus eliminating superfluous complications. Additionally, the Grand Seiko design code remains firmly adhered to the aesthetics of the original Grand Seiko watches of the 1960s. In yet another hindrance to its popularity,
Seiko only began selling the Grand Seiko collection outside of Japan in 2010. Even so, the international expansion has occurred in a tentative manner, with only a few dozen stores outside Japan carrying the line today. Scant distribution notwithstanding, Grand Seiko has developed a small but dedicated cult following outside of Japan because the products are extremely well priced for the quality. Even though Seiko is associated with affordable timepieces, Grand Seiko watches offer a strong enough value proposition that collectors have taken notice. Collectors are enamoured of the high quality of the external components of a Grand Seiko part, especially the dial and hands. The hands and hour indices are diamond cut, giving them razor sharp edges and mirrorlike surfaces. But Grand Seiko still sells mostly in Japan, with only a niche market outside of it. As Toyota’s experience with Lexus demonstrates – the first Lexus was launched in 1989 – it can take decades for a brand, even if it’s well-engineered and well-priced, to catch on.
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OF SPEED & TIME F1 season is here again – the perfect excuse to ogle at cars and watches. The parallels between horology and motoring run deep, beyond superficial similarities like chromed fenders and polished bezels. Both seek to meld art and science into machines that perform and excite. Plus, the wide selection of machines in each field is telling of the abundant techniques, innovation, and most of all, passion. Naturally, for every dream car, there is a grail watch... or a few of them. Here’s a look at the types of cars one may aspire towards, and our choice picks of their counterparts in horology. Have fun and remember, a car may only be yours for 10 years, but a timepiece is for life WORDS JAMIE TAN
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LAMBORGHINI AVENTADOR LP 700-4
THE HEAD TURNER The Lamborghini Aventador LP700-4 is what happens when price is no object and one pulls out all the stops. Beneath its carbon fibre monocoque (single shell) lies a 12-cylinder, 700 hp V engine, and an ISR (Independent Shifting Rods) transmission that promises a 50-millisecond shift time. Together with its 1,575 kg dry weight and pushrod suspension, this bull charges from standstill to 100km/h in just 2.9 seconds, and hits a top speed of 350km/h. Beyond just numbers, however, the Aventador comes complete with a hardware package that results in superb handling characteristics. The result? This supercar clinched Top Gear’s Supercar of the Year 2011 award, with Jeremy Clarkson even proclaiming it “£200,000 worth of dreams”. Quite understandably, subtlety is not its forte. The Aventador’s extremely low roofline, angular styling, and upward opening scissor doors will turn heads wherever it goes. But that’s precisely the point. With this chick magnet, you have proudly earned bragging rights.
RICHARD MILLE RAFAEL NADAL RM 35-01
ENGINE V12 6.5 TRANSMISSION ISR (Independent Shifting Rods) semi-automatic POWER OUTPUT 515kW at 8,250 rpm MAXIMUM TORQUE 690Nm at 5,500 rpm TOP SPEED 350km/h ACCELERATION 0 to 100km/h in 2.9 seconds
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The Rafael Nadal RM35-01 earns its spot here by taking what’s already being done to the furthest extreme. Shockproof timepieces, for one, are not exceedingly rare. This watch, however, is impact resistant to an astonishing 5,000G, thanks to a highly skeletonised movement in predominantly titanium, which is suspended by cables within the case. And what a case! While forged carbon cases are growing increasingly popular, Richard Mille is already a step ahead by using NTPT carbon here. The material is rigid in every direction, and has a visually stunning finish that resembles laminated steel in Japanese swords. Each case is also unique due to variations in the carbon fibres’ arrangements, for a timepiece that’s exclusively yours to tame.
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GREUBEL FORSEY PLATINUM GMT For Greubel Forsey, using a GMT hand to indicate a second time zone just doesn’t cut it. Why settle for less, when you can fit an entire miniature globe to show all the time zones in the northern hemisphere simultaneously? For those with business Down Under, fret not; a lateral window extends the view to the southern hemisphere. Flip the watch over, and you’ll have access to universal time for 24 cities at a glance via a rotating disc. As if that’s not enough, the Platinum GMT’s timekeeping is regulated by a fast-rotation 24-second tourbillon to set your heart racing. To finish things off, encase all the above in a platinum case for a horology tour de force.
ROGER DUBUIS HOMMAGE DOUBLE FLYING TOURBILLON This is a very classic watch that only tells the time. Oh, it also happens to come with two flying tourbillons each beating at 3Hz, with a differential between them to even out timekeeping discrepancies and enhance precision. You might be interested to know, too, that the ‘dial’ you see is actually the movement’s main plate. And yes, that is hand guilloché you see on it, with a minimum of four passes across each notch or groove instead of the usual one to two, for greater depth. As for the sunburst pattern enhanced by the applique numerals’ convergence towards the centre? A brand signature. It is the right details that make this a stunning piece of haute horlogerie you’d be proud to show off anywhere.
FRANCK MULLER VANGUARD Like how some cars are instantly recognised by their silhouettes, the Vanguard has the distinctive Curvex case that immediately identifies it as a Franck Muller. Apart from the tonneau shape, the complex contours that shape this case is a hallmark of the brand that confers a uniquely masculine appeal. The Vanguard here has applique Arabic numerals in relief, executed in a new font that’s exclusive to the collection. These numerals follow both the case’s outline at the edges, and the centre circle in which the brand signature and collection name are situated. An integrated strap design using two screws removes the need for lugs, further differentiating this collection from previous ones.
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MERCEDES-BENZ S-CLASS S 500 L THE PATRIARCH At some point in his life, a man will start looking inwards and focus away from the trappings of success; he’s made it and there’s nothing left to prove. This is when the Mercedes-Benz S-Class luxury sedan enters his life. The car’s understated appearance belies its pedigree as the brand’s flagship, where safety and technical innovations are first introduced here before trickling down to the rest of the family. With an emphasis on comfort and safety stretching back over half a century, this is the car for a man looking to satisfy himself over impressing others. Cameras that detect bumps ahead and prompt the suspension system to auto-adjust to absorb the oncoming shock; seats that mimic a hot stone massage experience with six selectable programmes; cup holders with Peltier technology to keep drinks warm or cool accordingly; these are but a few features the S-Class can be decked out in. You know you’ve already arrived, so sink into the cushy seat and relax for the journey ahead.
ENGINE V8 4.7 TRANSMISSION 7G-TRONIC PLUS POWER OUTPUT 455kW at 5,500 rpm MAXIMUM TORQUE 700Nm at 3,500 rpm TOP SPEED 250 km/h ACCELERATION 0 to 100 km/h in 4.8 seconds
PATEK PHILIPPE GRAND COMPLICATIONS REF. 5078R A watch like this is a filter that separates the wheat from the chaff. Ref. 5078R isn’t a difficult watch to pull off, given its modest 38mm case and simple dial layout with small seconds. The question, then, is who’s actually able to afford it, choose it over something less understated, and finally, get his hands on it. One must appreciate the artisan’s skill that created the enamel dial, enjoy the heft of the polished platinum case, and value the minute repeater’s chimes, knowing full well that others may not notice, let alone share in such joy. Ref. 5078R really is for personal gratification and to own it is to set a new milestone in life. (CHF340,000)
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VACHERON CONSTANTIN PATRIMONY ULTRA-THIN CALIBRE 1731 At just 8.09mm, this is the thinnest manual-winding minute repeater on the market. The timepiece, however, masquerades as a luxury dress watch with a simple three-hand layout (small seconds offset at eight o’clock). Push the slide to activate the minute repeater and the technical accomplishments reveal themselves. Each Patrimony Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731 has a unique sonic signature owing to the watchmaker who tuned it, with a steady cadence due to the flying governor that steadies the rate at which the hammers strike. The numbers speak for themselves – these timepieces are each assembled by a single master-watchmaker with over 15 years of experience, using 1,200 tools over a period of three to six months.
MONTBLANC MEISTERSTÜCK HERITAGE PERPETUAL CALENDAR The perpetual calendar is among the hardest astronomical complications to execute in a watch. Besides complex engineering behind the dial, proper design is needed to harmoniously present all the information in front of it. Montblanc has succeeded here, and even added a moon phase complication while at it. The Meisterstück Heritage Perpetual Calendar adheres to a colour scheme dominated by rose gold, silver, and blue. Four sub-dials with blue hands track the calendrical information in the dial’s centre region, while timekeeping is kept to the rose gold hands and indexes. These are all set against a sunburst silvery-white main dial. To earn its Meisterstück moniker, each timepiece also goes through over 500 hours of quality testing and each owner is guaranteed a masterpiece on his wrist.
PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TORIC RESONANCE 3 In an unusual twist, Parmigiani Fleurier has reversed the attention accorded to two complications that occupy opposite ends of the spectrum in watchmaking. The Toric Resonance 3 is a minute repeater, but the complication takes a backseat in this watch. The star here is the humongous date at six o’clock, whose disc is as large as the dial itself. Despite its mass, the date changes instantaneously every midnight because of an ingenious design utilising two cams – one accumulates energy throughout the day and releases it altogether when the other releases its brake on the disc momentarily. Every detail on the dial, from the hand guilloché to the eye-shaped detailing around the date window was conceived to draw attention to the date window, which reveals its marvel once daily.
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SUBARU WRX STI THE BEAST Nobody drives a ‘rex by accident, let alone its bigger sibling the STI. This car is only for serious enthusiasts – no sane man will use it to just ‘get around’ when there are more comfortable rides available at cheaper prices. Should you, however, appreciate a racing platform that cuts its teeth in rallies and works at tangible improvements with every subsequent release, this is it then. The WRX STI goes from rest to 100km/h in just 5.2 seconds, courtesy of a 2.5-litre turbocharged Boxer engine mated to the Subaru All-Wheel Drive system. The D-shaped steering wheel grants an intimate connection to the car, with a quicker 12.7:1 steering ratio this time. Not a professional racer? Few people are and assistive features are here to help. From the new Active Torque Vectoring system to staples like Subaru Intelligent Drive, you’ll have this beast confidently under control. You asked for a car that means business, and here it is.
ENGINE V4 2.5 TRANSMISSION 6-speed manual POWER OUTPUT 221kW at 6,000 rpm MAXIMUM TORQUE 407Nm at 4,000 rpm TOP SPEED 255 km/h ACCELERATION 0 to 100km/h in 5.2 seconds
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TAG HEUER MONACO V4 TOURBILLON TAG Heuer’s most innovative contribution to horology in the past decade is arguably the usage of belts in watch movements, à la the 2004 Monaco V4 Concept Watch. The Monaco V4 Tourbillon unveiled this year seals the deal for the brand with a belt-driven tourbillon movement. In this watch, four 0.07mm thin polyamine belts transmit energy between components linearly, and overcome various engineering challenges at each location. At the balance wheel, an extremely pliable belt is needed to minimise any effects on torque. At the barrel, however, an extremely sturdy belt is needed as the power creates a large torque. Why go to such trouble? TAG stands for Techniques d’Avant Garde and continuous advancements are part of its DNA. Bravo TAG!
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BREITLING NAVITIMER
AUDEMARS PIGUET ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH Audemars Piguet never stops improving its timepieces and the 2014 novelties is proof of its commitment on this. In particular, the Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in pink gold stands out with its aesthetical and functional improvements. Nonetheless, the manufacture knows to retain its winning features, in this case, the Méga Tapisserie guilloché, the 42mm case size, and the eight iconic screws securing the bezel. The crown and chronograph pushers have however been resized, and are now in black ceramic instead of rubber for added sleekness and durability. You will notice too, that the hands are newly facetted, as are the decorative fillets surrounding the hour markers, for enhanced legibility.
Ah, the Navitimer. Other models and collections may come and go, but it remains a stalwart within Breitling’s line up. Released in the early 1950s, the Navitimer’s evolution has been strictly driven by necessity. The familiar tri-compax layout has remained a constant alongside the circular slide rule, which managed complex calculations for the pilots of yore. The dial and hands, however, have seen several revisions over the years to improve the timepiece’s legibility and reliability. Early models had white chronograph second hands, for instance, which was updated to red. The update to an in-house B 01 movement was another milestone, as is a larger 46mm version released this year. For a timepiece that exemplifies purpose-driven evolution, consider the Navitimer.
OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 MASTER CO-AXIAL As a descendent of one of the earliest dive watches, the original Seamaster 300 released in 1957, the Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial has much to live up to. It is thus a relief that it has managed to retain its predecessor’s signature design elements while improving on the timekeeping function. Like the original, this iteration has Omega’s unique Broad Arrow hands, triangular hour markers, and numerals on the dial limited to three, six, nine, and 12. The movement inside, however, is an entirely different animal. The Master Co-Axial calibre powering this watch builds on Omega’s Co-Axial Escapement by introducing an Si14 balance spring, which makes the watch antimagnetic to 15,000 gauss without needing a Faraday cage. There aren’t many things one can change on a classic, but this one is – pardon the pun – masterfully done.
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AUDI A3 CABRIOLET THE YOUNG & RESTLESS For the guy who’s past using automobiles as mere means of transportation, and finally enjoying the ride in and of itself, this Audi is next. The A3 Cabriolet offers the best balance between comfort, power, space, and does so without breaking the bank… plus it’s a convertible! With its soft top up, up to four adults can travel in comfort, protected from the elements and insulated from external noise by the hood’s thick inner foam. Retract the roof, and it transforms into a sportier ride, with the extent depending on your choice of suspension. Assistive features include an electronically limited slip differential to make handling smoother and safer when cornering, and optional adaptive suspension and cruise controls. To round things off, the A3 Cabriolet packs a surprisingly ample 287 litres worth of luggage space despite its svelte dimensions. Not many convertibles have the ability to serve such varied functions, and certainly none balance them at this price as well.
ENGINE V4 1.4 TRANSMISSION 7-speed S tronic dual-clutch POWER OUTPUT 92kW at 6,000 rpm MAXIMUM TORQUE 200Nm at 4,000 rpm TOP SPEED 211 km/h ACCELERATION 0 to 100 km/h in 10.2 seconds
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ROLEX GMT-MASTER II The GMT-Master II epitomises Rolex as a brand and explains its enduring popularity as the high-end timepiece of choice for first timers stepping into the segment. For one, its complete package of classic looks and robust construction makes it the watch for all occasions, whether one’s clinking glasses in a ballroom or roughing it out in the wild. It also has the touch of class that elevates it as a luxury timepiece – its white gold case was cast in Rolex’s own foundry. A Cerachrom ‘Pepsi’ dial, certified chronometer movement and GMT function inside this Oyster ticks all the right boxes to make this the cornerstone of any budding watch collection.
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CARTIER CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER Cartier clearly wanted to shake things up with a sports/ dress hybrid at a reasonable price point, and succeeded with the Calibre de Cartier Diver. On the functional front, this is a legitimate diver’s watch with ISO 6425 certification. You can expect the usual gamut of features: Uni-directional bezl, water resistance to 300m, Super-LumiNova applied indexes and hands, and a screw-down crown. Style, on the other hand, comes from the reinterpretations of these features. The combination of sword-shaped hands and Roman numeral indexes, for example, instantly distinguishes this one from other diver’s watches. The spinel set into the crown adds another touch of luxury, as does the case, which is also available in pink gold.
PANERAI LUMINOR BASE 8 DAYS ACCIAIO If you’re itching for something decidedly masculine, go for the Luminor Base 8 Days Acciaio. Despite being an entry level timepiece within Panerai’s product line-up, it contains several signature elements of the brand that makes for an excellent start to a collection. Here’s the iconic Luminor case that clocks in at a manageable 44mm. The in-house Calibre P.5000 movement within packs a long eight-day power reserve which Panerai, a traditional maker of military timepieces, is known for. The feather in this watch’s cap is its sandwich dial – a top dial with cut out indexes layered over a coat of luminous material – another fan favourite that is unique to the brand. All things considered, the watch’s features vis-à-vis its asking price makes it a steal for beginner or veteran collectors alike.
IWC PORTUGUESE HAND-WOUND EIGHT DAYS One’s initiation into the world of luxury watches sometimes begins with a ‘serious’ dress watch. Criteria may differ, but the watch should have a good movement and pedigree, which makes the Portuguese a shoo-in for consideration. The HandWound Eight Days, in particular, is a compelling choice. This reference exudes class with a stainless steel case housing the silver-plated dial and rhodium-plated hands and indexes to create consistency. Both the main dial and small seconds sub-dial feature railway track chapter rings, with a striking signal red “60” on the latter to anchor the entire setup. And what better way to connect with your watch than the age-old ritual of winding it? Lest you forget to, it will still run for eight days when fully wound.
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LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER THE EXPLORER Hankering after some adventure? Head out in the Range Rover, which juxtaposes comfort and ruggedness, and excels at both. Driving it on normal roads is an experience steeped in luxury, what with its climate control, five-mode massage seats, and adaptive cruise control. Veer off-road and the Range Rover ups the ante to meet all your demands without sacrificing the luxe factor. To cope, its Terrain Response 2 system analyses driving conditions and optimises driveability and traction through the engine, gearbox, centre differential, and chassis. Software aside, the car’s high wheel travel and air suspension proffers variable ride heights of up to 303mm, and a wading depth of 900mm. Its supercharged V8 engine and 4WD also gives the Range Rover a 3,500kg trailer capacity. The car has run the gauntlet to prove its toughness, with 20,000 physical tests done across its components and systems. A fleet of Range Rovers was then test-driven over 18 months in 20 countries, in various climates and road conditions, before it entered the market. Here’s to overcoming the elements without ever breaking a sweat.
ENGINE V8 5.0 supercharged TRANSMISSION 8-speed automatic TOP SPEED 217km/h (250km/h with optional 22” wheels) ACCELERATION 0 to 100km/h in 5.1 seconds
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BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS BATHYSCAPHE FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH For proof that luxury and hardiness aren’t mutually exclusive in haute horlogerie, just look at the Bathyscaphe Flyback Chronograph. The watch traces its lineage back to the original Fifty Fathoms introduced by Blancpain in 1953 and is one of the collection’s most refined iterations yet. This reference is 43.6mm across, but wears much smaller thanks to the black ceramic case and bezel. Unsurprisingly, the ceramic construction also imparts greater resistance to daily abuse. As a diving watch, the watch’s 300m water resistance is a given. Interestingly, the Calibre F385 driving it also happens to be anti-magnetic – due its silicon balance spring – and runs at a breakneck 36,000vph. Its chronograph mechanism utilises a vertical clutch and comes with the flyback function to round off its features.
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JAEGER-LECOULTRE MASTER COMPRESSOR CHRONOGRAPH CERAMIC A sporty chronograph that tracks a second time zone is rare enough, let alone one that’s as hardy as the Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic. The watch is hefty at 46mm, but its ceramic construction keeps its weight down and shrugs off day-to-day abuse without a fuss. Note too, how the hands on the dial have been sorted into a hierarchy – the bright red chronograph second hand is instantly readable, but the skeletonised GMT hand remains in the background until you need it. Also unique to this collection is its compression key, which locks into position with half a turn. This overcompresses one of the crown’s toric gaskets to ensure water resistance (100m) and prevent any inadvertent handling.
HUBLOT SPIRIT OF BIG BANG TITANIUM CERAMIC Hublot’s timepieces have always had a sporty slant without compromising on the luxury factor, and this one’s no different. The Spirit of Big Bang channels the, well, spirit of the collection it takes its name from. The six distinctive screws on the bezel and the hands and indexes on the dial are just a few details shared with the Big Bang. The chunky tonneau case, however, sets this watch apart from its inspiration – at 51mm by 45mm and constructed of titanium and ceramic, it’s light yet tough, and decently water resistant to 100m. We’ve saved the best for last: The watch is powered by a skeletonised HUB4700 based on the legendary Zenith El Primero. What’s not to love?
GIRARD-PERREGAUX SEA HAWK The latest Sea Hawk is a very robust dive watch and its styling proudly proclaims this. The 1,000m water resistance might be taken as overkill, but it does inspire confidence nonetheless. Note the hard angular surfaces on the lugs and crown protector – this watch means business. Aesthetically, the Sea Hawk’s design is an exercise in contrast, from its bright orange and cobalt blue colour scheme to the three-dimensional markings. The latter are particularly easy to read off since they are raised off the dial, which is itself honeycombed for visual interest. Last but not least, the Sea Hawk has a prominent power reserve indicator, so you’d never be caught with an empty power reserve again.
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COLOUR ME COMPLICATED Tourbillons, carrousels, perpetual calendars, minute repeaters… This is haut de gamme watchmaking at its best WORDS CELINE YAP ART DIRECTION JOAELLE NG
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Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Chronograph Tourbillon in pink gold, price upon request
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Blancpain Villeret Carrousel Phases De Lune in red gold.
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Bovet Amadeo Fleurier Tourbillon Virtuoso III in red gold.
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Roger Dubuis Hommage Tribute To Mr Roger Dubuis in pink gold.
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A. Lange & Sรถhne 1815 Tourbillon in pink gold.
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Hublot Classic Fusion Tourbillon Minute Repeater in king gold.
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Breguet Classique Tourbillon Quantieme Perpetuelle Ref. 3797BR in rose gold.
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Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858 ExoTourbillon Rattrapante in white gold.
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Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon 39mm in rose gold.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon in extra-white gold.
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Louis Vuitton Tambour eVolution Tourbillon Volant in pink gold.
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THE FAR SIDE OF COOL You’re not really a hipster if you don’t own a vintage typewriter, a fixed gear bicycle, a pair of thick-rimmed glasses, and a mechanical watch – preferably by a non-mainstream brand WORDS CELINE YAP
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quarters of some quaint foreign town. Watches handed down from one’s father or grandfather – irrespective of make or model – are immune to any sort of criticism. Obviously, not everyone is stereotypically unemployed and living off their parent’s trust funds, but for the regular hipsters who do hold down decent jobs, horological options are aplenty. Sure, the luxury watch market is dominated by the likes of such world-class marques as Rolex, Omega, Cartier, and so on, however, the mechanical watch-loving hipster need not despair because the industry is vast and varied enough to include watch companies that, although smaller, are no less legit. Indies like Frédérique Constant, Oris, and Seiko offer just as much street cred as long as you know exactly what you’re buying into when you put down that stack of cold hard cash on these watches.
Photo iStock
ipsterism may be more a state of mind than anything else, but it is deeply intertwined with fashion sensibilities and lifestyle choices. Anything that’s considered mainstream is likely to be rejected by the hipster, who exhibits a strong penchant for the unknown, the emerging, the independent, and the subversive. To be culturally clueless is generally frowned upon, as hipsters place a lot of emphasis on creativity and individuality. Given their fondness for all things old school and artisanal, the fact that mechanical watches are not just alive, but thriving today is pleasing news to this hyper-progressive group of young men and women. Nonetheless, no self-respecting hipster would be caught dead wearing the latest on-trend model from the most widely embraced brands… unless it’s a vintage piece trawled from some obscure weekend antiques market in the bohemian
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Frédérique Constant Healey GMT 24H
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FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT Considerably younger than its peers, Frédérique Constant has never let its relative youth stand in the way of anything. Within a short span of 15 years, the company’s present leaders established a comprehensive set of manufacturing capabilities, yet stayed true to its dedication to the affordable luxury market. Wearers of Frédérique Constant watches are proud of the manufacture’s self-sustaining philosophy and remarkable technical achievements.
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Epos Collection Sportive Ref. 3425
Epos Collection Originale Ref. 3420
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(Left) Oris Artix Pointer Moon (Right) Oris Artelier Jumping Hour
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Producing quality Swiss made watches since 1904, Oris only deals in mechanical watches and its four key collections are rooted in culture, diving, aviation, and motor sports. Watches in the culture collection like the Artelier and Artix sum up the essentials of this unassuming marque. Special limited editions that pay tribute to jazz artistes like Chet Baker, Oscar Peterson, and John Coltrane are perfect for today’s vinyl-loving audiophiles.
Inside the Jumping Hour is the Calibre 917 with Oris’s typical red rotor
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PERRELET Most watch aficionados have heard of the name Abraham-Louis Perrelet as this gentleman contributed one of the most ubiquitous devices in watchmaking: The self-winding rotor. The Perrelet watch company started as a tribute to this great man’s invention, but it is also poised to write its own history. Enter the Perrelet Turbine collection – a complete set of watches in a variety of materials and executions, all of which feature an oscillating weight in the form of an air turbine on the dial, as well as one on the back. You can’t get more subversive than that.
Perrelet Diamond Flower
Perrelet Turbine Chrono
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MAURICE LACROIX When a watch brand wins multiple Red Dot design awards, as Maurice Lacroix has done, it is a given that said brand is anything but mainstream. Indeed, some of Maurice Lacroix’s most memorable creations include the Pontos Décentrique and the Masterpiece Roue Carrée, which are by no means archetypal in luxury watchmaking. By choosing a Maurice Lacroix watch, you are telling the world you’re led by passion and not trends.
Maurice Lacroix Master Roue Carrée
Maurice Lacroix Classiques Chronographe Phases de Lune
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Glycine Airman Airfighter
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(Above) Glycine Airman No. 1 (Bottom) Glycine F104 Vintage Set
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MIDO Philosophers and architects are two groups of people who would immediately see the beauty of a Mido watch. There is very little that’s superfluous about it, and everything about it links directly back to its core. Inspiration for Mido watches come from some of the most magnificent structures and monuments of our time, like the Eiffel Tower, the Great Wall of China, the Roman Coliseum, and the Golden Gate Bridge; yet, not explicitly so because it’s all in the spirit.
(Left) Mido Baroncelli Gent Small Seconds (Right) Mido All Dial Limited Edition
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(Left) Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ001 (Right) Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SBGJ005
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Grand Seiko Quartz Caliber 9F SBGV011
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Caliber 9R SBGA105
Calibre 9S86 visible through the sapphire case back of the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat 36000 GMT
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ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF Russian watches have a long history albeit one that’s decidedly unlike that of Swiss or German ones. This means that Alexander Shorokhoff will offer you watches that are unlike anything else on the market. The brand’s eponymous owner personally designs all the watches, and you can get a sense of Alexander Shorokhoff’s quirky characteristic through their aesthetics. Collections inspired by key Russian philosophers and writers like Tchaikovsky, Dostoevsky, and Tolstoi bring in notions of yesteryears while contemporary pieces offer something relevant to stylish dressers. Alexander Shorokhoff Miss Avant Garde
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SEVEN FRIDAY Watches don’t get more hipster than Seven Friday’s defiantly progressive P1 (unleashed in 2012) and the recently launched M1. A very young watch company led by a passionate individual, CEO Daniel Niederer who saw a gap in the market for emotionally exciting design at attractive prices, Seven Friday gained traction the moment its products met with eager collectors looking for a watch that was unlike any other in its category.
Seven Friday M2-1 steel with black PVD
Seven Friday M1-1 in steel
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TITONI In addition to upholding strong family values, Titoni is also resolutely Swiss. Managed today by its third generation business owners, this very traditional watch company has come a long way since its founding in 1919. Minimalist but well-crafted timepieces are the pillars that keep its entrepreneurial spirit alive. Timeless designs like the Master Series, the Wall Street, the Space Star, and the Slender Line offer something for everyone.
Titoni Wall Street Ref. 83727 S-ST-315
Titoni Master Series Ref. 94981 S-390
Titoni Miss Lovely Ref. 23976 S-502
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Variations of the Vulcain Aviator Instrument
VULCAIN Did you know that Vulcain was the inventor of the first wristwatch equipped with a genuinely operational alarm function? This was in the midst of World War II, 1947. First worn by the 33rd president of the United States, Harry S Truman, Vulcain watches have occupied the wrists of numerous American presidents since then, and also that of eminent figures around the world. If you’re looking for a watch with a winning backstory, this is it.
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U-Boat Gamma Bronze with black dial
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U-Boat Batisfera with beige dial
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ROTARY Offering good value, high quality watches since its inception, the independent Rotary watch company remains true to its philosophy till this day. This longstanding brand with the unmistakeable winged wheel logo preserves design elements of the roaring 1920s and both its simple as well as its complicated models exude the same vibes. Its vast product line-up includes military-inspired instruments, openworked artisanal creations, and pure, classic timepieces.
Rotary Les Originales Jura Traditional
Ipistibus, omnis rem voloris tiist, ommoditiis
Rotary Aqua Speed Pacific
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Rotary Les Originales Quartz Complication
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WENGER Everything about a Wenger watch spells adventure, from the Squadron Commando to the Roadster Grenadier, not forgetting the Seaforce Aquagraph. Robustness and performance are at the core of these timepieces, however, precision and design are never far. The wide range of models caters to different tastes and lifestyles but they all express the same appetite for action.
Variations of the new Wenger Urban Classic in time-only (left) and chronograph (right)
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(Left) Fortis IQ Watch by Rolf Sachs (Right) Fortis B-42 Marinemaster Yellow
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(Left) Fortis Phantom F-4F (Right) Fortis Andora Emotion Limited Art Edition
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JUNGHANS Sometimes a touch of traditional German austerity is all we need for a refreshing change from the usual sexed-up overhyped black PVD-coated cases, brazen multiple complications, and the like. Junghans brings this much-need blast of fresh air into the mix with its sober designs, understated concepts, minimalist approach, and classical personality. Even with additional functions, a Junghans watch does not vie unnecessarily for attention because it knows its worth.
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INTERVIEW
FOR A GREATER GOOD Omega CEO Stephen Urquhart reveals that the brand’s product development outside of its core business seeks a deeper purpose than short-term publicity or profits WORDS & INTERVIEW JAMIE TAN
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o business goes on an upward trajectory forever – there are years of plenty, but also lean years. Facebook comes to mind with its share price that famously plunged after its initial public offering in the US. Since then, prices have recovered and nearly doubled. Stephen Urquhart, who has been in the watchmaking industry for nearly half a century and president of Omega for the past 15 years, would be deeply familiar with such cycles, having weathered through the Quartz Crisis and its aftermath that can still be felt today.
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Fortunately, the past few years have been very good for Omega, to put mildly. The Co-Axial movement that Omega first commercialised in 1999 has begun to mature, and Omega is finally reaping the dividends from this initially uncertain investment. The Co-Axial movement has also gone on to inspire the Master Co-Axial movement with anti-magnetic properties, further cementing its place within the brand’s collection. Backed by technological expertise, Omega has been working its way upwards in terms of brand positioning and perceived value of its products
– the Co-Axial equipped Speedmaster chronograph costs roughly double that of the classic Speedmaster Professional, also known affectionately as the Moonwatch. The brand has, however, not neglected its obligations as a member of the wider community. In terms of social responsibility, Omega is active on several fronts, including partnerships with Orbis International, an NGO which is most famous for its “Flying Eye Hospital” that squeezes both an ophthalmic hospital and a teaching facility inside a jet aircraft. More recently, the brand has
INTERVIEW
partnered with the GoodPlanet Foundation to tackle various environmental problems. This partnership’s latest project, Time for the Planet, took place in Indonesia, where WOW managed to have a chat with Urquhart about the brand’s direction for its watches and various partnerships. Omega isn’t the only brand doing its part for the environment. Do you try to set yourself apart and be different with your partnerships? No, we are trying to do something that we believe is good for the brand, and for humanity, since we’re all in this world together. A few other brands are doing things but I think in a very offhand way. It’s not just about giving money to a foundation that cures cancer – it’s very important but we are trying to be more hands on. We first did the film Planet Ocean with GoodPlanet, but it’s not commercial at all – you can’t see a single watch inside it. Then, we decided to do this project with them. What I like about Time for the Planet is that you are doing the job yourself by operating, and also teaching the local staff.
Time for the Planet includes educating the community members’ about the importance of their natural resources and how to live sustainably
Did you do anything similar in the past? We started a collaboration with Peter Blake in the early days. He bought his boat, called it Seamaster and created Blake Expeditions. He wanted to sail around the world and see what we could do for the oceans, but he didn’t really have a fixed plan. Unfortunately, he was killed, and his project stalled.
The Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M GMT GoodPlanet is presented in a unique box made of natural bamboo, further highlighting its environmental cause
Has this project met your expectations? Oh yes, very much. We didn’t really know what to do after Peter Blake. When we had a new Planet Ocean watch in 2008, we contacted Yann Arthus-Bertrand. He was already known as one of the world’s best photographers and conveys a message like [Peter Blake], so we got together and since then, there’s been a very close relationship. This is the first real hands on thing that we’ve done, here in Manado. When you embarked on this partnership, did you have an end result in mind or was it play by ear? Play by ear, definitely. We believe Omega is a brand of empathy that
WE ARE TRYING TO DO SOMETHING THAT WE BELIEVE IS GOOD FOR THE BRAND, AND FOR HUMANITY people like to relate to, given all the stories and anecdotes behind it. It’s not a brand that’s just wanted for social status or snob appeal. We believe that this project fits into the brand very well. Don’t get me wrong, we’re not trying to be a crusader, but I think we want to use our brand to make a difference. Omega’s core business is in luxury watchmaking, so it’s sometimes associated with conspicuous consumption and excesses. How do you reconcile this with Bertrand’s message of conservation? You’re right. Let’s face it, the vast majority of people today
who will buy a watch might not give much thought about what we’re doing here. But when you said that it’s 'luxury', I don’t like it because people immediately think of all the things you’ve said before. If you look at the dictionary, luxury is something you do not need. A mechanical watch is just that. We live in a world where we don’t need a watch at all. Given this frame of mind surrounding the watch today, I think to be involved in social responsibility projects is very meaningful. People who buy watches will be getting more sensitive to this message down the road, and buying something for its core value. Are there any social responsibility projects that you have in mind for the future? There are many fields that we can go into. We are collaborating on the next film with Mr
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and now the Master Co-Axial, as our main testament in the future. Not many people know this, but the name Omega came from the Omega calibre in the first watch we made. It’s not the easiest way to sell a watch, but I think it’s the most meaningful and a way that will, over time, create the greatest lasting value.
The modified components inside Omega’s Master Co-Axial Calibre include the silicon balance spring and non-magnetic Nivagauss staffs and pivots
Bertrand, named Terra, which is also about nature. I’m sure there are areas where we didn’t look at. The door is not closed. Your partnerships with NASA and the Olympics are obviously very large scale events compared to Time for the Planet. Is it challenging to manage them equally without giving too much focus to one? They’re all different. Our relationship with NASA is more in the past than the present or the future, at least for now. The International Olympic Committee and the Olympic message is also changing. I was in Sochi and saw the political side of things, and it was not pretty. The partnership with GoodPlanet is a little bit different. They need our help to organise this event in Indonesia, and we might just go somewhere else with them tomorrow if need be. So, it is challenging, and I’m glad we have a very committed team for this. Is the Master Co-Axial a diffusion line to differentiate it from the 'normal' CoAxial movements? That’s a good question. It’s not easy to control the process of rolling out new technologies. We launched the 15,000 Gauss last year. One watch, very simple. We know this technology should be in every watch, because everybody needs an anti-magnetic watch in the world we live in. Every handbag, every fridge, even every car’s airbag system has a magnetic field that will affect the workings of a mechanical watch. Now that we have the technology, we’ve decided to roll it out for all our collections bearing in-house
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movements. We had the choice to write 15,000 Gauss on the dial, but this isn’t very sexy. So we said we’ll make it an upgrade of the Co-Axial movement to Master Co-Axial. The aim is to have every Omega watch down the road equipped with a Master Co-Axial movement – one with a co-axial escapement and antimagnetic properties. What’s the importance of the Master Co-Axial and Co-Axial lines to Omega? It’s not really a line so much as it’s going to be the heart of every Omega watch. It’s 100 per cent right that we should use the Co-Axial,
The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Master Co-Axial, one of BaselWorld 2014’s novelties featuring the new Master Co-Axial Calibre
What else is next for Omega? What can we expect for BaselWorld 2015? BaselWorld 2015 is not important yet. We are still very focused on the rest of this year. Next year will be a big year mainly because it’ll be another [James] Bond year. Also, certain developments we’re making with the Master Co-Axial movement will come of age next year. And of course, 2016 will be the Olympics. Could you comment on Indonesia as a watch market and what the more popular watch models here are? It’s still in its early stages, and isn’t a very mature market yet. The most popular watches here? Honestly I don’t know. But I would think it is the Constellation, like in China. It’s still a market that’s waiting to happen. Unfortunately in Indonesia, watches are still linked to success and money, so a lot of Indonesians go to Singapore to buy watches there. I think we have to develop the market here. We’re opening our offices here now, to invest in this market, but demand has to follow.
EVENTS
FOR CONNOISSEURS ONLY The A. Lange & Söhne Connoisseurs’ Akadamie returns to indulge collectors in a one-of-a-kind watchmaking experience WORDS JAMIE TAN
A toast from CEO of A. Lange & Söhne, Wilhelm Schmid
An up-close demonstration by Joanna Lange
Assembly of microscrews on balance wheel
The 2014 class of the A. Lange & Söhne Connoisseurs’ Akademie
A Ng Tze Penn trying his hand at removing a ruby from the pallet forks
Wilhelm Schmid, Tan Kee Hwee, and Dr Seetho Kai Yin
Lange & Söhne’s Connoisseurs’ Akadamie series of events is back after a one-year hiatus at Goodwood Park Hotel. Titled “Time Is In Our Hands” this time, its first session in a planned series of three saw guests attending a lecture before trying their hands at the practical aspects of watchmaking. Tasks included polishing components on diamond paper, placing rubies on and removing them from pallet forks, and adjusting micro regulator screws on the balance wheel. The evening ended off with a sit down dinner where guests indulged in a customised wine-pairing menu.
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Breitling takes stock of its Chronomat collection with an exhibition, as it celebrates its own 130th anniversary WORDS JAMIE TAN
Models at the exhibition’s launch party
Sophie Mong, Airin Lee, Mong Mei Nah, Chang Chia Howe, and Felicia Mong
The atrium at Paragon turned into an aviation-themed space
Rohan Belliappa, Pauline Wan, and model DJ Mathias Schell
Key Breitling Chronomat references were on proud display
B (From left) Alexander C. Melchers, R. Dhinakaran, and Dirk Paulsen, with the models
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reitling celebrates its 130th anniversary and the 30th anniversary of its Chronomat collection this year. To mark these milestones, the brand collaborated with Watches of Switzerland to hold an exhibition at the atrium of Paragon Singapore from 14 to 18 August. The exhibition was launched with guests on 13 August, and paid tribute to one of the most critical cornerstones of Breitling’s history. It chronicles the evolution of the Chronomat collection, with highlights including a selection of Chronomat aerobatics editions from the 1990s. Also available were several 2014 novelties including the new Navitimer and the Avenger Blackbird.
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Whiskey tasting was one of the highlights
Jean Danker, host of the event
The outdoorsy ambience was accompanied by a ranger-themed spread
Guests were invited to admire the new Tudor Ranger
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Tudor and The Hour Glass jointly launch the Heritage Ranger in Singapore with a ranger-themed cocktail event WORDS JAMIE TAN
T Tudor ranger girls welcomed guests upon their arrival
he Hour Glass and Tudor celebrated the inaugural launch of the Tudor Heritage Ranger in Singapore on 30 July with a cocktail event at the Tudor Ranger Cabin. The event space had been set up according to theme, with a pool table, activity lounge, and a photo wall. Guests in attendance got to learn more about Tudor’s history and the Heritage Ranger timepiece, and examine in person both new and classic Tudor timepieces.
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Cartier boutique
HOUSE OF CARTIER Cartier Unveiled its 2nd Boutique in Indonesia at Plaza Senayan WORDS GILANG PRATAMA
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ollowing the success of Cartier Plaza Indonesia Boutique, the French luxury goods maker Cartier together with Time International unveiled their new boutique in Plaza Senayan last September. Commemorated with a lively and elegant cocktail party, Cartier further asserts its status as the “King of Jewellers” and as the leading watchmaker in the world. Located by the main entrance of Plaza Senayan, visitors’ eyes will be drawn to the spectacular chandelier that illuminates the boutique as they step in. Its lush interiors bring out the true essence of the House of Cartier with a modern and distinctive ambience. This 208 sqm boutique reflected Cartier’s image of craftmanship and luxury in every corner. The opening party was commenced by Gregoire Blanche, Cartier’s Regional Director South East Asia and Australia, and Irwan D. Mussry, President and CEO of Time International. Celebrities and public figures such as Nadya Hutagalung,
Cartier boutique
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Mr. Gregoire Blanche, Ms. Cindy Angelina, Ms. Nadia Hutagalung, Ms. Bunga Citra Lestari, Mr.Ashraf Sinclair, Mr. Irwan Danny Mussry
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Cartier Event Plaza Senayan
Christian Panggabean, Donny de Keizer
Violinist Maylaffayza
Mr. Irwan D. Mussry, Ms. Bunga C. Lestari, Mr. Ashraf Sinclair
Ade AndriniShinta Zahara-Ninin
Opening CeremonyMr. Gregoire Blanche & Mr. Irwan D. Mussry
Bunga Citra Lestari, Ashraf Sinclair and Cindy Angelina were spotted as among those attending the event. A mesmerizing violin performance by Maylaffayza serenaded the milling guests. The newly opened boutique is designed to be a sanctuary in which to explore the opulence of the House of Cartier. It boasts four interconnecting salons inside; a watchmaking salon reserved for watch enthusiasts, a jewellery salon that showcases Cartier’s exquisite bejewelled creations, a “Home” salon that houses accessories and leather goods, and a private VIP room that allows discreet viewing for those who seek to have a little more comfort and exclusivity.
Mr.Gregoire Blanche,Ms.Nadya Hutagalung,Mr.Jean-Baptiste Tardy
Cartier Event Plaza Senayan
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Aperture (or dial window) Tingkap Jam; pembukaan kecil pada muka jam, untuk tampilan berbagai informasi seperti tanggal, jam, dan hari. A small opening in a dial plate through which various information is displayed: date, hours and day of the week.
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Barrel Kotak berbentuk silinder tipis berisi pegas utama dari sebuah jam tangan. Pinggiran silinder bergerigi berfungsi menggerakkan perangkatnya. Thin cylindrical box containing the mainspring of a watch. The toothed rim of the barrel drives the train Bezel Ring penahan yang mengelilingi muka jam. Biasanya terbuat dari emas, atau baja anti karat. The ring which surrounds the watch dial (or face). The bezel is usually made of gold, gold plate or stainless steel. Bi-directional rotating bezel Ring penahan yang dapat diputar searah atau berlawanan arah jarum jam. Digunakan untuk penghitungan matematis seperti kecepatan rata-rata atau jarak, atau untuk melacak waktu yang telah berlalu. A bezel that can be rotated either clockwise or counterclockwise. These are used for mathematical calculations such as average speed or distance or for keeping track of elapsed time. Bottom plate Pelat metal yang menahan pelat penghubung dan berbagai bagian dari mekanisme pada jam. A metal plate bearing the bridges and various parts of the movement. Bridge (or bar, or cock) Bagian mekanisme metal yang terpasang pada pelat dasar dan menahan setidaknya satu bagian yang berputar. Umumnya diberi nama sesuai fungsinya, seperti contoh: centre-wheel bridge, barrel bridge, balance cock. A metal movement part that is attached to a bottom plate and holds at least one bearing of a rotating part. Both ends of the bridge are secured to the plate by screws. Generally a bridge is named according to its function, e.g. centre-wheel bridge, barrel bridge, balance cock. Breguet overcoil Sebuah pegas di mana kumparan luarnya terangkat dan diputar menghadap pusat sehingga pegas tersebut dapat berkembang dengan satu titik pusat. A spring whose outer coil is raised and turned towards the centre so that the spring can develop concentrically.
C
Calibre Secara sederhana berarti ‘diameter’. Dalam pembuatan jam, istilah ini mengacu kepada ukuran dan bentuk tertentu dari mekanisme dan pelat penghubung serta komponen yang bervariasi dan juga berfungsi sebagai perancang mekanisme. Umumnya digunakan untuk mengartikan ukuran dari mekanisme sebuah jam tangan, kini istilah ini mendefinisikan jenis mekanisme (men’s caliber, automatic caliber). In simple terms, it means “diameter”. In watchmaking, the term refers to the specific layout and shape of a movement and the bridges, and its various components as well as the designer of the movement. Originally used to mean the size of a watch movement, this term now denotes a type of movement (men’s calibre, automatic calibre). 204 | WOW FESTIVE 2014
Carillon Mekanisme pemukul atau lonceng, yang melibatkan dua atau lebih lonceng dari berbagai nada yang berfungsi untuk membunyikan waktu. Striking mechanism, or chime, that involves two or more bells of varying tones. Case Kontainer yang melindungi mekanisme sebuah jam dari berbagai gangguan. Terbuat dari metal dan terletak di luar bagian jam. Biasanya terdiri dari bagian pusat (caseband), ring penahan, dan kotak belakang. Juga berfungsi memberikan tampilan yang menarik pada jam tangan. Bentuk yang paling umum dari kotak jam adalah: bundar, segi empat, dan tonneau. The container housing the movement of the watch and protecting it against dust, moisture, jarring and other hazards. Usually consisting of the caseband, the bezel, and the caseback. It also gives the watch as attractive an appearance as possible, subject to fashion and the taste of the public.The most common case shapes are: round, square and tonneau. Caseback Bagian bawah dari kotak jam yang dapat dibuka sebagai akses ke dalam mekanisme jam. The bottom of the watchcase that can be opened for access to the watch movement. Chronograph Sebuah jam yang memiliki fungsi stopwatch yang dibuat di dalamnya (contohnya: pengatur waktu yang dapat dimulai dan diberhentikan untuk mengukur lamanya suatu kejadian). Ada berbagai jenis khronograf yang berbeda. Namun jangan menyamakan khronograf dengan khronometer, karena keduanya sama sekali berbeda. Watch with a built-in stop watch style device. There are many different types of chronographs. Some may show elapsed minutes or even hours as well as elapsed seconds. Chronograph & chronometer are not the same thing. The words are not interchangeable. Chronometer Secara teknis, semua jam tangan adalah khronometer. Saat ini, semua jam tangan harus memiliki kualifikasi khronometer, dan sekarang ini kebanyakan khronometer telah memenuhi standar ISO 3159 yang dibuat oleh C.O.S.C. (Swiss Official Chronometer Control). Apabila Anda memiliki jam buatan Swiss yang diberi label khronometer, Anda dapat yakin bahwa jam tersebut memiliki mekanisme mekanik dengan kualitas tertinggi. Technically speaking, all watches are chronometers. Today, watches must qualify as chronometers, and most all chronometers today meet the ISO 3159 standard set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Control (C.O.S.C.). If you have a Swiss watch labeled as a chronometer, you can be certain that it has a mechanical movement of the very highest quality. Complications Beberapa fitur tambahan pada jam tangan berupa kelebihan-kelebihan yang tidak terdapat pada jam biasa. Yang biasanya terdapat dalam komplikasi adalah: kalender abadi, tampilan fase bulan, alarm, mekanisme berulang, dan fungsi khronograf. Indikator persediaan tenaga juga biasanya dianggap sebagai komplikasi. One or more features added to a watch in addition to its usual time-telling functions, which normally not only include the hours, minutes and seconds but also date and often the day of the week as well. Complications such as perpetual calendars, moonphase displays, alarms, repeating mechanisms, quarter strikes as well as stop/start chronograph functions. Power reserve indicators are also usually regarded as ‘complications’.
TERMINOLOGY
Crown (or stem, or pin) Tombol di luar kotak jam yang digunakan untuk memutar pegas secara manual untuk pengukuran waktu dan mengoreksi indikator kalender. Knurled knob located on the outside of a watch case and used for winding the mainspring. It is also used for setting the hands to the right time and for correcting the calendar indications. Ceramic Dalam dunia pembuatan jam, ceramic adalah materi berteknologi tinggi, dibuat dari aluminium dan zirconium oxides (polycrystals) untuk pembuatan elemen kotak dan elemen dekoratif, dari safir untuk kristal dan rubi untuk perhiasan. In watchmaking, ceramic is a high-tech material, generally made from aluminium and zirconium oxides (polycrystals) for the manufacturing of cases and decorative elements, of sapphire (monocrystalline aluminium oxide) for crystals, and of ruby (aluminium oxide + chromium oxide) for jewels. Cabochon Batu mulia yang dipelitur dan dipotong berbentuk lengkungan dan tidak bersegi. Digunakan untuk menghias muka jam dan terkadang tombol pemutar. A polished precious or fine stone cut into a dome and without facets. Used to decorate a watch dial and sometimes the crown. Chimes Seperempat jam yang dibunyikan melalui ‘gong’ sebanyak tiga, empat, atau lebih dengan lemparan nada berbeda. Yang paling terkenal adalah lonceng Westminster. The quarter-hours are sounded on three, four or more gongs with different pitches, the best-known being the Westminster chimes. Coaxial Memiliki poros yang bersamaan atau menjulang pada poros yang berpusat pada satu titik, sebagai contoh jarum jam dan menit dan mungkin jarum detik. Having coincident axes or mounted on concentric shafts, for example the hour and minute hands, and possibly the seconds hands. Counter Alat penghitung atau perekam pada jam. Penjumlah khronograf adalah penghitung yang mengindikasikan jumlah revolusi yang dihasilkan oleh jarum khronograf: penjumlah 30, 45, 60 menit, atau penjumlah 12 jam. Generally speaking, an instrument which counts and/or records. Chronograph totalisers are counters which indicate the number of revolutions made by the chronograph hand: 30, 45 or 60 minute totaliser / 12 hour totaliser.
D
Dial Disket atau pelat yang terbuat dari metal atau bahan lainnya, untuk indikasi jam, menit, dan detik. Merupakan muka jam dengan bentuk, dekorasi, dan materi bervariasi dan berisi numeral, figur, simbol, divisi dan informasi lainnya. Disc or plate made of metal or another substance, inscribed with various markings, including obvious indications for the hours, minutes and seconds. Uniquely varied in shape, decoration and material, they are inscribed with numerals, figures, symbols, divisions and other information. Dial foot Menghubungkan muka jam ke pelat dasar dengan cara menyekrup kaki ‘muka jam’ ke pelat dasar. Attaches the dial to the bottom plate. The dial feet are screwed to the bottom plate. Disc Pelat yang tipis, datar, dan bundar. Disket kalender berputar di bawah muka jam. Penandanya ditunjukkan melalui sebuah tingkap. Disket lainnya menampilkan hari, bulan, atau fase bulan. A flat, thin, round plate. The calendar disc rotates under the dial; its indications are shown through an aperture. Other discs display the day, month or moon phase.
E
Elapsed time rotating bezel Ring penahan yang berputar untuk melacak waktu yang telah berlalu. Ring penahan dapat diputar sehingga pemakainya dapat menyesuaikan angka nol pada ring penahan dengan jarum detik atau menit pada jam. Setelah satu periode waktu berlalu, Anda dapat membaca waktu yang telah berlalu melalui ring penahan. A graduated rotating bezel used to keep track of elapsed time. The bezel can be turned so the wearer can align the zero on the bezel with the watch’s seconds or minutes hand. After a period of time passes, you can read the elapsed time off the bezel. This saves you having to perform the subtraction that would be necessary if you used the watch’s regular dial. Escapement Sebuah alat dalam mekanisme mekanik yang mengendalikan perputaran roda-roda dan pergerakan jarum-jarum. Device in a mechanical movement that controls the rotation of the wheels and thus the motion of the hands. Ebauche Merupakan istilah Perancis, namun umumnya digunakan di negara barat, yang berarti ‘mekanisme kosong’. Contohnya: mekanisme jam terpisah yang dijual sebagai kumpulan dari bagian yang lepas, terdiri dari pelat utama, pelat penghubung, pemutar, mekanisme setelan, dan regulator . Namun, sistem penentuan waktu, rangkaian perangkat penggerak, dan pegas utama bukanlah bagian dari ébauche. French term (but commonly used in English-speaking countries) for a movement blank, i.e. an incomplete watch movement which is sold as a set of loose parts, comprising the main plate, the bridges, the train, the winding and setting mechanism and the regulator. The timing system, the escapement and the mainspring, however, are not parts of the “ébauche”. Equation of time watches Jam yang menunjukkan perbedaan antara waktu perputaran matahari ‘yang sesungguhnya’ (waktu alami) dan waktu rata-rata perputaran matahari ‘yang diterjemahkan’ (waktu buatan manusia). Komplikasi yang jarang dan puitis ini biasanya dikombinasikan dengan indikasi astronomis lainnya. An equation of time watch shows the difference between “true” solar time (that of Nature) and “mean” solar time (that of Man). This rare and poetic complication is usually combined with other astronomical indications.
F
Foudroyante (Jumping seconds or hand; flying seconds) Pada sebuah khronograf yang tua, merupakan sebuah jarum yang membuat satu putaran setiap detiknya, berhenti empat, lima, bahkan delapan kali untuk mengindikasikan seperempat, seperlima, atau seperdelapan dari sebuah detik. On an old chronograph, a hand that makes one rotation every second, pausing four, five, even eight times to indicate quarters, fifths or eighths of a second. Some chronohraphs with jumping seconds have been reissued. Fly-back (Retour en vol) Sebuah fungsi untuk penggunaan tertentu untuk menuntun di mana jarum khronograf dapat disetel ulang ke nol dan segera dimulai kembali dengan sekali tekanan pada tombol. A function of particular use to pilots by which the chronograph hand can be reset to zero and immediately started again by pressing once on the push-piece. WOW FESTIVE 2014 | 205
TERMINOLOGY
G
Grande complications Jam tangan mekanis paling rumit yang menampilkan beragam komplikasi. Terminologi ini biasa digunakan hanya untuk jam mekanis. Jam tangan quartz dengan fitur tambahan biasanya dideskripsikan sebagai ‘ multi-fungsi’. The most complex of mechanical watches featuring an abundance of complications. The term is normally restricted to mechanical watches. Quartz watches with additional features are usually described as ‘multi-functional’. Grand strike Dalam bahasa Perancis disebut dengan Grande Sonnerie. Merupakan sebuah mekanisme yang dapat secara otomatis membunyikan jam dan seperempat jam dan mengulang jam, seperempat, dan menit sesuai keinginan. (“Grande sonnerie” in french) Mechanism that can automatically sound the hours and quarter hours and which repeat hours, quarters and minutes on demand. Guilloche Dekorasi pada muka jam, rotor atau bagian kotak yang mengandung pola yang diukir oleh tangan atau mesin dengan motif gelombang atau garis lurus berjalin. Decoration of dials, rotors or case parts consisting of patterns made by hand or engine-turned. By the thin pattern of the resulting engravings and consisting of crossing or interlaced lines.
H
Horology Seni dan ilmu pengukuran waktu dan teknologi dalam membuat instrumen pengukur waktu. The art and study of watch making.The science of measuring time and technology of constructing instruments for its measurement or recording.
J
Jewel Sebuah rubi sintetis untuk membuat penahan dengan pergesekan yang rendah di mana putaran lembut dari roda mekanisme dijalankan. Berfungsi agar jam lebih akurat dan tahan lama. Dalam beberapa jam eksklusif, terkadang safir atau batu akik berwarna merah tua digunakan. Mekanisme jam yang mahal diberi perhiasan mulai dari barrel hingga seluruh mekanisme lainnya. A synthetic ruby used for making low friction bearing in which the delicate pivots of the movement wheels run in. In some deluxe watches, sometimes sapphires or garnets are used. Expensive watch movements are jeweled from the barrel to the balance, and all automatic work, date and complication movements are expected to be jeweled.
L
Lap timer Sebuah fungsi khronograf yang memungkinkan pemakainya menghitung bagian dari sebuah lomba. Pada akhir putaran, ia menghentikan waktu, kembali ke nol untuk memulai penghitungan waktu putaran berikutnya. A chronograph function that lets the wearer time segments of a race. At the end of a lap, he stops the timer, which then returns to zero to begin timing the next lap. Lugs Sambungan yang terdapat pada ujung sisi kotak jam untuk menyambungkannya dengan rantai jam. Extensions on either end of a watch case to which the band or bracelet is attached. Light-Emitting Diode (LED) Sumber penghasil cahaya tersegmentasi untuk menunjukkan numeral pada jam elektronik digital, dijalankan dengan sebuah tombol pendorong. A segmented luminous source used to display numerals on electronic digital watches operated by a push-button. 206 | WOW FESTIVE 2014
Luminescent Lapisan pada indeks numeral, penanda dan jarum jam agar dapat terlihat dalam keadaan gelap. Sistem paling umum saat ini adalah LumiNova, yang terdiri dari bahan kandungan berbasis tritium. Having the property to emit light rays. In watchmaking, Tritium is the name given to a radioluminescent substance containing tritium. It was used to coat numerals, markers and hands so they could be read in the dark. The most widespread system today is LumiNova. Lesser strike (or petite sonnerie) Mekanisme pemukulan yang terbatas untuk penandaan jam secara otomatis. Striking-mechanism setting limited to the automatic strike of hours.
M
Manual movement Mekanisme yang diputar secara manual dengan tangan. Pergerakkan dialirkan melalui jari pemakai jam ke bagian pemutar jam yang kemudian dilanjutkan ke mekanisme melalui batang pemutar ke barrel, melalui serangkaian perangkat pada pegas utama. A mechanical movement in which winding is performed by hand. The motion transmitted from the user’s fingers to the crown is forwarded to the movement through the winding stem to the barrel, through a series of gears to the mainspring. Movement Mekanisme bagian dalam yang mengatur jarum jam, kalendar, muka jam kedua, dan alarm. Mekanisme hadir dalam wujud mekanis maupun quartz. The inner mechanisms which control the watch’s hands, calendars, sub-dials and alarms. Movements are either mechanical or quartz. Mechanical movement Sebuah mekanisme yang dijalankan oleh sebuah pegas utama, yang bekerjasama dengan roda penyeimbang. Kebanyakan jam saat ini dikendalikan secara elektronik oleh mekanisme quartz dan dijalankan oleh baterai. A movement powered by a mainspring, working in conjunction with a balance wheel. Most watches today have electronically controlled quartz movements and are powered by a battery. However, mechanical watches are currently enjoying a resurgence in popularity. Minute repeater Sebuah jam yang dapat menunjukkan waktu dengan menimbulkan bunyi-bunyian melalui sebuah tombol pendorong atau alat penggeser kecil pada sisi kotak jam. Waktu dapat berbunyi menurut satuan jam, menit, atau seperempat jam. Komplikasi seperti ini biasanya mempunyai harga yang sangat tinggi. A watch which can additionally tell the time, at the push of a button or move of a small slide on the side of the case, by striking the hours, quarter hours and minutes since the last quarter hour on small goings inside the watch. Such complex watches are never inexpensive. Main plate Pelat dasar di mana semua perangkat mekanisme jam terpasang. Base plate on which all the other parts of a watch movement are mounted. Moon phases Mekanisme dan tampilan yang menunjukkan fase berbeda pada bulan. Satu siklus putaran bulan memerlukan 29 hari, 12 jam, 44 menit, dan 2.8 detik, dan dibagi dalam 4 fase, yaitu bulan baru, seperempat pertama, bulan purnama dan seperempat terakhir. A mechanism and display representing the different phases of the moon. A complete lunation takes 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.8 seconds and is divided into four phases. These are new moon, first quarter, full moon, last quarter. Mainspring Pegas yang menjalankan jam di dalam sebuah barrel. The driving spring of a watch or clock, contained in the barrel.
TERMINOLOGY
P
Pallet Perangkat baja atau kuningan yang mengendalikan rotasi kecil pada roda bergigi searah. Steel or brass part of watch that controls the small rotation of a ratchet wheel. Perpetual calendar Kalendar abadi; sebuah komplikasi yang menampilkan hari-hari dalam seminggu, termasuk tanggal dan bulannya – juga mengoreksi tahun kabisat dan fase bulan. Beroperasi selama siklus 400 tahun, kalendar abadi tidak perlu penyesuaian manual sebelum Februari 2100. Biasanya kalendar abadi mempunyai mekanisme otomatis. A complication displaying the day of the week, the date, the month - also correcting for leap years - and the phases of the moon. Operating on the 400 year cycle, perpetual calendars require no manual correction before February 2100.Perpetual calendars are almost always self winding and, if worn constantly, are one of the most useful of all complications. Palladium Sebuah metal sejenis platinum yang banyak digunakan pada perhiasan tingkat tinggi karena warnanya yang putih dan daya tahannya. A rare metal of the platinum group. Palladium is used in Fine Jewellery alloys for its whiteness and durability. Pinion Bagian kecil dari jam tangan, berupa roda yang terdiri dari 6 hingga 14 gigi. A watch part, generally with 6 to 14 leaves (teeth). PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) Teknik lapisan dari titanium nitrate yang dilakukan pada kondisi vakum dan dibungkus oleh lapisan emas 22 karat untuk hasil akhir berwarna emas. A coating of titanium nitrate applied in a vacuum and then covered by a coating of 22k gold to obtain a gold coloured finish.
R
Repeater Mekanisme yang dapat membuat bunyi pada setiap jam atau menit dan diulang sesuai keinginan. Pertama kali dirancang untuk membantu pemakai mengetahui waktu dalam kegelapan. Merupakan mekanisme paling rumit dan paling susah untuk diperkecil dan dimuat pada sebuah jam tangan. A watch mechanism that sounds hours, quarters or minutes or repeats them on request. First designed to help the wearer to tell the time in the dark, they were always the most complex of watches and were the most difficult to miniaturize to fit into a wristwatch. Rotor Bagian dari mekanisme otomatis, berupa piringan metal setengah lingkaran yang berayun memutarkan pegas utama mekanisme seiring dengan pergerakkan si pemakai. The part of an automatic (or self-winding) mechanical watch that winds the movement’s mainspring. It is a flat piece of metal, usually shaped like a semicircle, that swivels on a pivot with the motion of the wearer’s arm. Regulator Sebuah jam tanpa jarum jam dan menit non-coaxial. Biasanya digunakan untuk referensi akurasi para peneliti dan stasiun kereta api ketika mengatur waktu mereka. A clock with non-coaxial hour and minute hands. Regulator used to refer specifically to an accurate longcase clock used as a reference by observatories and railway stations when setting their clocks. Retrograde Jarum jam, menit, detik, atau kalendar yang bergerak melintasi sebuah skala, dan pada akhir siklusnya, kembali ke nol dan berulang. An hour, minute, seconds or calendar hand which moves across a scale and, at the end of its cycle, returns immediately to zero to begin again.
S
Sapphire crystal Bahan sintetis corundum anti-gores yang digunakan untuk kristal jam, terletak pada bagian muka atau belakang kotak jam. Scratch-resistant man-made material (synthetic corundum) used for watch crystals, fitted over the dial and sometimes set into the case back. Screw-in crown (or screw down crown) Crown yang dapat diputar (disekrup) ke dalam, biasa digunakan agar jam lebih tahan air. A screw that is used to make a watch more water resistant. The crown actually screws into the case, dramatically increasing the water-tightness of the watch. Skeleton Jam dengan bagian kotak dan mekanisme yang terpotong atau transparan untuk menampilkan elemen mekanik. Watch in which the case and various movement parts are cut away or transparent to reveal the watch’s mechanical elements. Split-seconds chronograph Sebuah mekanisme khronograf yang mengendalikan dua jarum detik yang saling bertumpuk. A chronograph mechanism controlling two second hands, one called the split-seconds hand, superimposed on one another. Self-winding Jam yang bergerak atas dasar pergerakan si pemakai, bukan mengandalkan batang pemutar. Apabila tidak digunakan dalam beberapa hari, jam perlu diputar kembali untuk menjalankannya. Jam tangan seperti ini juga dikenal sebagai jam dengan pemutar otomatis. A watch that is wound by the motion of the wearer’s arm instead of by winding the stem. If a self winding watch is not worn for a few days, it will wind down. This type of watch is also referred to as automatic winding. Sub-dial Muka jam yang lebih kecil pada permukaan jam yang digunakan untuk fungsi tampilan detik atau tanggal di antara fungsi lainnya. Sebuah jam bisa tidak memiliki sub-dial maupun beberapa sub-dial. Smaller dial located on the watch face or main dial used for such purposes as displaying seconds or dates. A watch can have no sub-dials or several sub-dials.
T
Tourbillon Sebuah alat pengatur yang dapat menghilangkan efek gravitasi pada mekanisme jam dengan memutarkan alat penyeimbang, tuas, dan rangkaian perangkat penggerak pada satu poros tunggal. Sebuah mekanisme yang sulit untuk diproduksi. A regulating device that cancels the effects of gravitation on the precision of a watch movement by rotating the balance, lever and escapement around a single axis. The mechanism that, even in its most conventional version, is extremely hard to manufacture. Tonneau Sebuah bentuk pada kotak jam yang terlihat seperti barrel dengan dua bagian yang menggembung di bagian sisinya. Describing the shape of a watch case that looks like a barrel with tow bulging sides. Tachymeter Alat pengukur kecepatan pada jam khronograf atau jam olahraga dengan sebuah skala untuk pembacaan kecepatan dalam satuan kilometer per jam (kph). In watchmaking, a chronograph or sports counter with a scale for reading speed in kilometres per hour (kph) or another unit.
W
Winding Proses pengencangan pegas utama pada jam. Bisa dilakukan secara manual (melalui pemutar) atau otomatis (melalui rotor yang bergerak seiring dengan pergerakan tubuh si pemakai). Operation consisting in tightening the mainspring of a watch. This can be done by hand (by means of the crown) or automatically (by means of a rotor, which is caused to swing by the movements of the wearer’s arm). WOW FESTIVE 2014 | 207
DIRECTORY where to browse, buy, service and repair your watches
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Level 1 # 165-168 Jln. M.H. Thamrin Kav. 28-30, Jakarta 10350 Tel: +62 21 310 7715 Fax: +62 21 310 7712
Level 2 # 61 Jln. Asia Afrika Lot 19 Jakarta Selatan 10270
SERVICE CENTRES TIME INTERNATIONAL Menara Sudirman Level 12A Jln. Jend. Sudirman Kav.60 Jakarta 12190 Phone: +62 21 5228182 Fax: +62 21 522 8181
208 | WOW FESTIVE 2014
Adidas Baume et Mercier Breil Breitling Burberry Cartier
Chopard Christian Dior Corum D&G Diesel DKNY
Ebel Emporio Armani Fendi Fossil Gucci
Hamilton IWC Jaeger Le Coultre Maurice Lacroix Panerai Rolex
TAG Heuer Tudor Vacheron Constantin Van Cleef and Arperls Zenith Zodiac
OUR SERVICE CENTER IS AT Menara Sudirman Lt. 12 A Jln. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 60 Jakarta 12190 Indonesia Phone : +62 21 5228182
THE HAUTE HORLOGERIE EXHIBITION IN ASIA 30 SEPTEMBER - 2 OCTOBER 2014
HKCEC - Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre