United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine February 2010 by Ahmed Aamir

HEMISPHERES A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER THREE PERFECT DAYS: MONTREAL THE WORLD’S MOST INDULGENT SPA TREATMENTS ( RELAX, YOU’VE EARNED IT ) VEGAS MAKES A BET ON “BLOODLESS BULLFIGHTING” PLUS: CHEF HESTON BLUMENTHAL, SINGER CHARLOTTEANDGAINSBOURGNASCAR’S JUAN PABLO MONTOYA

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“Uncover upscale boutiques and historic sites, often right next door to each other, and breathe in the heady aroma of poutine, Montreal’s signature dish.” 3PD | P. 68 Feb. AHHH.... Take a deep breath. Relax. Prepare to embark on a tour of the top spa packages in the world, including Thailand’s renowned S Medical Spa. (Sounds taxing, doesn’t it?) BY LAWRENCE OSBORNE THERE WON’T BE BLOOD Revered by some and condemned by others, bullﬁghting is nothing if not controversial. But can a more humane, Velcro-tipped version of the sport take off ? One Las Vegas promoter hopes so. // BY EDWARD LEWINE ILLUSTRATIONS BY SEAN MCCABE THREE PERFECT DAYS: MONTREAL This centuries-old city is preserving its Old World ﬂavor while nurturing a creative renaissance. Breezing through its distinctive neighborhoods offers visitors a rich taste of both. // BY MAURA EGAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER FRANK EDWARDS 56 contents UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM EDWARDSFRANKPETERBYPHOTOGRAPH Parc du Mont-Royal YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 6468

departments COVER IMAGE Natsko Seki // agencyrush.com 10 Comments 13 Voices Safety is United’s top priority. 16 Connections United aims to give you exactly what you want. 18 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 21 Notes From All Over Alien designer HR Giger is fêted in his native Gruyères on the film’s 30th anniversary; Oahu’s waves are just swell; a Vermont party goes to the dogs; Magic: The Gathering casts a spell on Rome; a Japanese town takes recycling very seriously. DIRECTIONS 27 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go. 31 Goods 35 Whereabouts Nascar driver Juan Pablo Montoya escapes to tropical paradise. 36 Whirlwind Five hours in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico 40 FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED .COM JOFCOURTESYART,OFMUSEUMMETROPOLITANOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT:FROMOHNSHORT 4427 PLAY 87 Movies, television and audio programming 98 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams 110 Crossword, sudoku and quiz 114 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you? 115 Beverages & Food WRITE TO US: Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM CULTURE 38 Sound On her latest album, Charlotte Gainsbourg draws inspiration from brain surgery. By K. Leander Williams 40 Vision As the cultish TV phenomenon enters its final season, experts weigh in on what it all means. // By Matt Thompson 42 Print Scandinavian countries tend to have low crime rates, but their literary output most certainly doesn’t. // By Mike Guy 44 Food & Drink British star chef Heston Blumenthal rewrites the recipe for roadside diner chain Little Chef. // By Jay Cheshes 48 Industry By rolling out a new model, the snazzy Kizashi, Suzuki makes a run for the front of the U.S. pack. By Jonny Lieberman 50 Tech Wi-Fi Direct aims to eliminate the need for wires, Bluetooth and maybe even hands. // By Alyssa Giacobbe 52 Hero Shaun Duvall forges connections between Midwestern farmers and their Mexican employees. // By Joan Fischer 55 Artifact A souvenir from the field

©2010HiltonWorldwide WithoneoftheonlyswimmablebeachesinLosCabos,exquisitelyappointedguest accommodations,renownedgolf,aworld-classspa,gourmetrestaurantsandremarkable amenities,there’slittlewonderthisaward-winningresortissettingnewstandardsforluxury. FindyourparadiseatHiltonLosCabos.Visitusat HiltonLosCabos.com/funsun foryour exclusive Fun-in-the-SunPlus offerthatincludesafourthnightfree,a$200resortcredit,and specialfamilyfundiscounts.

JONNY LIEBERMAN The car fanatic loves the Kizashi (page 48) but declares, “The greatest car ever made is the Citroen SM.” Lieberman writes for Autoblog but says his “real job” is being a member of the 24 Hours of LeMons Supreme costwhichangoverningCourt—thebodyofenduranceraceinallcarsmustlessthan$500.

ALLISON MORRIS, who writes ShelfTalker, a blog about children’s books for Publishers Weekly, was delighted to see the works of some of her favorite illustrators in our November issue. In a recent post, she calls out “a clever, colorful [cover] illustration that could only be the work of the incredibly talented John Hendrix”; notes that Dispatches illustrator Graham Roumieu’s whimsical imagery has provoked hours of laughter; and gives a shout-out to Whirlwind illustrator Oliver Jeffers, “whose books are (all of them) beyond wonderful.” Morris adds that she relishes “the chance to see the work of talented illustrators like these on printed pages outside the world of (thank goodness we still have them) books. Sightings of editorial art like this are fewer and fewer.”

Meanwhile, over at hemispheresmagazine.com, more readers are sharing their experiences in our comments sections, a practice we heartily endorse.

WHAT DO YOU THINK? WRITE TO US! Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn,

BILL RICHARDS, editor of the magazine Inform: Architecture and Design in the MidAtlantic, sent us an email saying that “Cover to cover...[Hemispheres] has some of the best photography out there.” He goes on to praise our December issue: “It is one of the best publications in the sky or on the ground. Substantive, timely and engaging. What other inﬂight magazine can go from the Mexican art dynamo Gabriel Orozco to women’s boxing in the same issue without skipping a beat?”

10 comments FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED .COM EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy ASSOCIATE EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Grant Stoddard, Matt Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, Graham Roumieu EDITORIAL INTERN Lizbette Ocasio-Russe EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com917-591-6247 hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Al Loise, Catherine Hanson, Cynthia Carns, Emily Anton, Jonathan Ebert, Jorge REGIONALAbadiaREPRESENTATIVE HAWAII Robert Wiegand TEL: +1 808-587-8300 INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES CHINA/JAPAN TEL:JOSEPHINE.HO@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+85235419890 SE ASIA TEL:SHAZEEN.MOLEDINA@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+6563022465 EUROPE TEL:MARK.DUKE@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138796 MIDDLE EAST PRODUCTIONTEL:ANTHONY.AZOURY@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138798MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 PRODUCTION678-553-8091CONTROLLER Grace Rivera, Diksha Patel Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in HEMISPHERES are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines. HEMISPHERES

We put a lot of thought into the look of Hemispheres, and readers are taking notice.

NATSKO SEKI A Tokyo native and graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, Seki has done work for Louis Vuitton Japan, Yahoo! Japan, The Guardian and The New York Times. On the cover of Hemispheres this month, she captures the essence of Montreal, of which she says “I haven’t been yet, but I’d love to go.”

LAWRENCE OSBORNE Osborne’s experiences in Bangkok, from eating street food to indulging in spa treatments (page 56), were the subject of his memoir Bangkok Days, which was on The New York Times’ list of the top 10 travel books of 2009. Next up for him is a book titled The Wet and the Dry “It’s about drink culture worldwide,” he says. “Gulp.”

After a Korean university professor assigned executive editor Mike Guy’s feature “Riding With Mr. Thong” (July 2009) to her students, many logged on to comment.

“I feel as if I adventured in Vietnam with Mr. Thong and the writer,” says one. Another advises, “Warning: after you ﬁnish reading, you might yield to the temptation to visit Vietnam.” Yet another notes simply, “I can feel the beauty of the landscape through this article.” NY 11201

? The Art of the Matter Contributors

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“Whether in the air or on the ground, our number one priority is keeping our customers and our people safe,” Quiello says. “It is the foundation of everything we do.” It’s a point Quiello often reinforces in his conversations with fellow executives, his team and United’s employees at the many airports he frequently visits.

“We know our customers want an airline that is safe and on time,” he says. “In 2009, we executed extremely well in on-time performance, ranking ﬁrst among the major network carriers according to preliminary industry statistics, but never at the expense of safety. We know it can be frustrating if a ﬂight is delayed because of a mechanical issue with the aircraft, but the bottom line is there is no such thing as a successful on-time departure unless it’s a safe departure. We trust our captains’ judgment implicitly.”

// BY

Always With a Safety Mindset voices 13 SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPH HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBRUARY 2010

After obtaining a degree in civil engineering, he was commissioned as an officer in the Marine Corps, where he served as a jet pilot. Quiello, who has 28 years of experience in the commercial aviation industry, joined United in January 2009 as vice president of Corporate Safety, Security, Quality and Environment. Quiello has a polished and easygoing nature, not unlike an Ivy League professor in his dress and demeanor, but his commitment to continuous improvement, training and

MICHAEL QUIELLO IS passionate about safety. It’s obvious in the way he talks about it. Analyzing a continuous stream of data with his team is in many ways a highly technical process, but Quiello sees his mission in very human terms: ensuring the well being of United’s customers and employees—every day and on every ﬂight.

A former commercial airline captain himself, Quiello received his pilot’s license at age 17 and is qualiﬁed to ﬂy everything from gliders and sea planes to most major airliners. “I’ve loved aviation all my life, including building model planes and rockets. I guess I’ve gone from balsa wood and tissue paper to the majestic Boeing 777.”

United’s top safety ofﬁcer Michael Quiello talks about the foundation of the airline’s business —a proactive and uncompromised approach to safety and security STEPHEN LEE

“Safety is truly the responsibility of every employee at United—from our customer service representatives to our ﬂight crews—and we expend considerable resources to provide the support, tools and training our people need to create the safest possible work environment,” he says.

One recent challenge for United and all airlines was posed by the additional security measures implemented by the TSA in late December. “Our teams, especially at our international airports, really rose to the challenge of not only meeting the TSA’s requirements, but maintaining our focus on safety, customer service and the integrity of our operations,” he says with pride, “an accomplishment that’s even more noteworthy given the high volume of customers we serve at that time of year.”

A United pilot performs a visual inspection of the aircraft as one of numerous standardized preﬂight safety procedures.

United worked tirelessly throughout that period to help develop the industry’s position. The key, according to Quiello, is not only meeting the security requirements, but ensuring that the safeguards are implemented with a sensitivity to the impact on the millions of customers that United, and all airlines, serve every year. He also points out that while commercial airlines compete for the ﬂying public’s business, they collaborate on issues related to safety and security. “We all learn from incidents no matter where they happen and work diligently with the TSA and other regulatory agencies around the world to focus our efforts on the best interests of the public,” he notes.

“The bottom line is there is no such thing as a successful on-time departure, unless it’s a safe departure.”

SAFETY AT EVERY TURN

United’s pilots, for example, receive world-class training, including recurrent sessions with state-of-theart flight simulators that re-create everything from adverse weather to complex emergencies. They also follow rigorous and standardized preflight safety procedures. When customers look out the plane’s window and see a pilot walking around the aircraft, for example, they’re observing a standard visual inspection process in which the captain or first officer makes a final evaluation of the fuselage, engines and landing gear.

SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPH carefully steer their equipment in the midst of the very busy and crowded environments that all major airports represent. “The handling of our aircraft is a highly orchestrated operation,” Quiello explains. “We want to ensure our employees remain injury free, and it’s also important not to damage the aircraft in any way, even if it’s just a slight bump. If the aircraft needs to be taken out of service for repair, it impacts operations and therefore customers.

communication is intense.

14 FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED.COM

As part of the safety team onboard the aircraft, United’s ﬂight attendants vigilantly monitor the cabin to ensure compliance with FAA regulations as well as to identify any potential concerns.

“And we have teams of mechanics that take care of our ground equipment, loading bridges and the airport lobby and gate areas as well. Safety doesn’t begin when a person boards our aircraft; it begins when they enter the airport itself.”

“No pun intended, but great safety performance is no accident,” Quiello says, without cracking a smile. “We have in place an entire Safety Management System that ensures all safety regulations and policies are understood and followed,” he goes on. “At the core of the system is identifying and mitigating potential risks well before they become an issue.” Under Quiello’s leadership, rather than reacting to incidents, United takes a predictive approach using current data not only to improve safety performance, but the overall performance of the operations as well. “The FAA monitors our safety compliance, of course, but we continuously self-audit and hold ourselves and our regional United Express and Star Alliance partner airlines accountable beyond IOSA standards,” he adds, referring to the International Air Transport Association’s Operational Safety Audit standards, the world’s most stringent.

Quiello emphasizes that United is intensely focused on the day-to-day safety of its employees, which requires a highly regimented approach, with the ultimate goal of providing customers safe travel around the clock.

As reﬂected in his relatively long title, another of Quiello’s and his team’s responsibilities is aviation security, which requires close coordination with the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), the Transportation Security Administration (TSA) and other regulatory agencies, both U.S.-based and international. He has served on a number of national boards, including the Air Transport Association’s safety committee and the executive committee of the Flight Safety Foundation.

“The job is never complete when it comes to the safety and security of our customers and employees,” Quiello adds. “There are only starting points. It is all about continuous improvement. As an airline, safety represents our most profound responsibility, and we take it very, very seriously.”

“United’s maintenance teams are highly skilled veteran technicians who focus on our ﬂeet twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week,” Quiello notes.

The airline’s ground employees who load baggage and cargo, as well as skillfully guiding the planes into and out of the gates, are also well trained to voices

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SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPHS Just the Way You Like It

For two decades, United employee and retiree volunteers have taken more than 3,000 disadvantaged and ill children and their families on Fantasy Flights to the North Pole. Our special guests are welcomed aboard our holidaythemed aircraft, where games, gifts and snacks await. After a short “ﬂight” to the North Pole—and no, we’re not telling where it is!—the children meet Santa Claus for hours of Christmas cheer.

Visit

Want to move more quickly through the airport? There’s a Travel Option by UnitedSM for that. Want to stretch your legs? There’s a Travel Option for that: Economy Plus®. Close to reaching a Mileage Plus reward level and want to earn a few extra miles on this trip? There’s a Travel Option for that too. We know that just because you and the customer seated next to you bought tickets for the same ﬂight doesn’t mean you’re looking for the same experience.

United employees and retirees work together during their free time for several months each year planning the Fantasy Flights and raising money to buy gifts for the kids whoDuringattend.the 2009 holiday season, children and their families took ﬂight in Chicago, Denver, San enjoyingsmilespartappearances.haveSpider-ManAiresCleveland,Washington,Francisco,LosAngeles,Pittsburgh,BuenosandSydney.Choirs,clowns,SpongeBob,andTinkerBellbeenknowntomakeButthebestoftheshowisseeingtheonthefacesofchildrenveryhappyholidays.

ON ANY GIVEN DAY, more than 200,000 travelers take to the sky with United and United Express. And like the snowflakes so common in February, no two customers are exactly alike. The reasons we travel are as varied as the places we go. Everyone wants transportation that is safe, clean and dependable. Many travelers want more. For the family of four visiting grandparents for Presidents’ Day weekend, the option to buy a fresh inflight snack is a great convenience. The tall gentleman crossing the Atlantic values added legroom. The businesswoman racing through the airport to catch an early flight home appreciates the ability to get work done in a United Red Carpet Club. And because our customers have many reasons to fly, United offers options that enable travelers to tailor the travel experience.

United offers options that enable you to tailor your travel experience.

POLAR ROUTES

16 connections

united.com/traveloptions FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED.COM

POSITANO, ITALY // PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID CICCONI

19wish you were HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMhere | FEBRUARY 2010WHEN THE MOON HITS YOUR EYE A perfect night begins on the Mediterranean coast.

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Beneath a low ceiling made from interlinked skeletons, a line of patrons waits by the dark bar. Then, drinks in hand, they sit in bone-themed chairs that Giger built for a never-produced version of Dune and study the Giger ghouls affixed to the walls.

Gruyères, Switzerland A town throws a fête for its most famous son, surrealist HR Giger. (Aliens welcome.) BY ROUMIEU

MonsterParty

“Sometimes Mr. Giger will visit to pay respects to his people,” a bartender says. Not tonight, alas. Director Oliver Stone is in the house, though. Sipping a club soda, he admires a particularly ghastly demon. “A few decades from now, when they talk about the twentieth century,” he muses, “they will think of Giger.”— SHARON MCDONNELL

GRAHAM

JUST UP THE HILL from the idyllic train station in this tidy Swiss village is a collection of the most ghastly creatures ever seen. To ﬁnd them, one walks 1.2 miles through placid green pastures and past aromatic cheese dairies churning out the town’s namesake product. And then there it is, looming over the postcard-perfect burg like a sentinel, the stately Chateau St. Germain, now home to a museum dedicated to a local artist. While the area might seem better suited to soothing pastoral watercolors, the artwork spread over the stone walls and through the shadowy corridors of the chateau is a mite darker: the world’s biggest collection of paintings, sculptures and set designs by Swiss surrealist HR Giger, the creator of the toothy, slime-dripping star of the Alien trilogy and other terrorinducing beasts. Not only was it 30 years ago in April that Giger received the Academy Award for his Alien monster (which, having burst out of John Hurt’s chest during dinner, instantly became the global symbol of indigestion), but it also happens that the artist turns 70 this month. So the town of Gruyères decided to celebrate with a yearlong party at the chateau’s HR Giger Bar, around the corner from the museum.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM FEBRUARY 2010

ILLUSTRATIONS

NOTES FROM ALL OVER dispatches HEM ISPH ERES MAGA ZINE .COM | 201 0FEBR UARY 2 NOT ES FRO MA LL OVE R

Gwen, his wife, edges past a Bernese mountain dog. “There’s delicious cake, everyone!” she calls out. Huneck signs books of his dog-oriented woodcuts for attendees. He points to a small wooden building nearby.

“I had just been thinking, ‘Darn, I want to take a vacation with just my dog!’” Hoyt says.

A black lab noses a garbage can behind the barbecue pit and tips it over. He plunges into a pile of hot dog scraps. A permissive crowd watches until the pit master shoos the dog—though not too fast. It is, after all, his day.—LIZ LEYDEN Dog’s Day St. Johnsbury, Vermont Oahu, Hawaii DOING THE WAVE At 6 a.m. on December 8, dawn breaks on the north shore of Oahu to the steady cadence of 50-foot waves pounding the beach. Boom... boom... As a salty mist hangs in the air over Waimea Bay like cotton candy, practically every big-wave surfer alive is lugging his or her long board across the sand to compete in one of the sport’s most esteemed and infrequent events: The Quiksilver in Memory of Eddie Aikau, or “TheOneEddie.”prominent invitee is three-time world champion Andy Irons. Having just emerged from the water after a 45-minute session, his eyes are aglow with adrenaline.

FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED.COM 22 dispatches

Which is how she happens to ﬁnd herself on a mountainside farm in St. Johnsbury with her retriever, Sway, and hundreds of other revelers—Scotties, bulldogs, and a 165-pound Great Dane named Max among them—who’ve gathered for artist Stephen Huneck’s twice-yearly celebration of man’s best friend. The forest around the mountain is lit with blazing autumn colors. Dozens of dogs splash in the pond and chase sticks, tennis balls and one another around the farm in wild packs. They burst through the door of the gallery where Huneck sits.

Becky Hoyt’s path to Dog Mountain began when her copy of Dog Fancy magazine fell to the ﬂoor, opening to an ad for a dog party.

“I built a dog chapel for people to go and remember their dogs that have passed,” he says.

“There are way more world champions than there are winners of the Eddie,” he says. “They don’t hold it very often, so I’m just happy to get theNamedinvite.”after late Hawaiian surﬁng legend Eddie Aikau, the Eddie has taken place just eight times since its debut 25 years ago. The rules stipulate that waves must reach a minimum of 30 feet for organizers to even consider making the call. This year, the extraordinary swell sent 40-foot-high walls of terror hurtling from the Bering Sea to Waimea. Big-wave cowboys studying satellite photos knew the Eddie was on days before the swellThehit.world’s most fearless surfer may be Greg Long, a skinny, soft-spoken 24-yearold from San Clemente, California. Today, with the surf hitting 60 feet with regularity, Long rides waves that could easily swallow him whole. In the end, he bests his hero, Kelly Slater. His win is based on the size of the wave, his position at “takeoff ” and the potential consequences if he’d wiped out (best not to contemplate). The prize: a gnarly $55,000 check. “I’m humbled,” Long says from the dais. Irons, standing nearby, nods in agreement. “Thanks, Eddie,” he says.

Later in the day, there are contests: Best Dancer, Best Kisser. Huneck crowns Sway and Hoyt, both strawberry blondes, Most Lookalike Couple.

—JEFF MULL

For many people, Magic cards are—along with Sailor Moon, EverQuest and Jolt Cola—part of a pantheon of departed 1990s adolescent geekery. But for an exclusive set of diehard fans around the world like Lybaert, they are central to a still vital subculture.“I’vemade a lot of friends playing in Magic tournaments,” says the 24-year-old architectureBelgianstudent, who looks like a cross between Harry Potter and the Jonas Brothers. “People from Japan, Belgium, even the United States.” And though he concedes that he was too depressed to hang out with any of them after his loss, he’s philosophical about the experience. “I learn bits of

—MATT THOMPSON and Lybaert blinks, stunned. After months of rigorous preparation, three harrowing days and 18 competitive matches in which the original 409 contenders were winnowed down to an elite eight, he’s out.

FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED.COM 24 dispatches

“I came up with this as an obvious way to tackle an environmental issue,” says Sonoe Fujii, the founding director, pointing to his Zero Waste Chart. “I never expected such a perfect system. And yes, everyone cooperates.”—DANIELLE DEMETRIOU Waste Not Kamikatsu, Japan Rome STRANGE MAGIC Late one night in Rome, Marijn Lybaert is ﬁghting for his life. Down two games to one, he is low on mana and fending off a blistering attack from Great Sable Stags and Goblin Ruinblasters. At stake: a prize of $45,000 and the title of World Champion of Magic: The Gathering, a role-playing card game that might be described as baseball card collecting meets Lord of the Rings. Camera crews eddy around his table—the game is being broadcast live to a packed convention hall mere steps away from the Roman Colosseum—as a pair of hushed announcers speculate as to Lybaert’s next move. His opponent plays a card (a Bloodbraid Elf!), strategy at every tournament I go to,” he says. At this gathering, though, it wasn’t any particular strategy that beat him. “When it comes down to it,” Lybaert says, “the other guy was just lucky with his card draws.”

When it comes to trash, Japan is famously fastidious. Every household divides its waste into three categories: burnable, nonburnable and recyclable. However, the art of taking out the trash is elevated to a sublime level in the village of Kamikatsu, where townspeople divide their refuse into no fewer than 34 categories, ranging from the plastic caps of soy sauce bottles to ballpoint pens, green tea containers and wooden chopsticks. This tiny hamlet on the mountainous island of Shikoku in southwest Japan is expected to become the ﬁrst in the country—and indeed the world—to achieve what it calls Zero Waste. Currently, every single item of garbage is either recycled or incinerated. The 2,000 residents of Kamikatsu, who started the program six years ago, have progressed enough that they expect to eliminate the use of incinerators and reach Zero by 2020. Kamikatsu’s rubbish revolution is organized at Zero Waste Academy, on the outskirts of town, where trash is separated by type. Each item has been painstakingly washed and delivered here by the residents (the program is voluntary), at which point seven academy staff members sort it into perfect piles. Last year, 135 tons of garbage were incinerated and 192 tons recycled.

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WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBRUARY 2010 27 news Cut and Pasted

Long, long before we posted pictures to Facebook and Flickr, a lot went into taking a photograph. But that didn’t stop some Victorian aristocrats from manipulating them and occasionally making collages that incorporated watercolors to fantastical effect. New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art has gathered some 55 of these little-known pieces in “Playing with Pictures: The Art of Victorian Photocollage.” No Photoshop required. metmuseum.org

ARTOFMUSEUMMETROPOLITANTHEOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPH directions

IMAGESCROP/GETTYCREATIVEBYRESORTS,&HOTELSHYATTOFCOURTESYGUIDES,ROUGHOFCOURTESYIMAGES,

BARGAIN IN BANGOK // When planning a trip to Bangkok, consider reserving accommodations in the center of things (trust us, a long ride home in a tuk-tuk gets old fast). The Grand Hyatt Erawan meets that requirement—it’s walking distance from temples, palaces and markets—and it also features one the city’s best authentic Italian restaurants. Don’t worry, there’s Thai cuisine, too. The best part? This month, rooms are 20 percent off. bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

28 6-16 VENICE // While many cities hold a Carnival, only this one plays out like a 10-day Cirque du Soleil, with masked performers taking over the city. carnevale.venezia.it 12-13 PHOENIX // Hoop it up at the Heard Museum’s 20th Annual World Championship Hoop Dance. heard.org 19-21 MADRID // One of Europe’s premiere art fairs, ARCOmadrid, focuses on work from a different country every year. This time around, they’ve narrowed it down to one city: Los Angeles. ifema.es 26-28 NORCIA, ITALY // Indulge your inner gourmand at the Black Trufﬂe Fair, where the beloved fungus can be found on just about everything. norcia.net

MARCH 9-14 BIRMINGHAM, ENGLAND // Smile for the birdie at the 100th All England Open Badminton Championship. badmintonengland.co.uk

WE WANT M.O.A.R. // Last year, New York hotel The Marcel at Gramercy redefined “hotel cool” when it brought in a “Tattoo Artist in Residence,” a celebrity inker named Mister Cartoon. The hotel is taking its commitment to edgy art a step further with the launch of M.O.A.R. (Marcel Original Art on Rotation) this month. The first artist to have his work shown will be, well, Mister Cartoon. Don’t miss out on his graffiti-like stylings. hotelmarcelnewyork.com

KINGTON/AFP/GETTYIANBYIMAGES,LAURO/GETTYDIMARCOBYMARCEL,HOTELOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT:TOPFROMCLOCKWISE

SWEET SPOT //

FEBRUARYCALENDAR

The Morton Arboretum outside Chicago turns its attention from trees to chocolate this month. Valentine’s Day dinner and brunch, chocolate facials and various exhibits about the history of cacao processing celebrate everyone’s favorite treat. Brave parents can bring kids to the Candy Garden to explore Gumdrop Pass and Mountain.Marshmallowmortonarb.org

THE ROADS LESS TRAVELED // Those who have trouble sticking to the tourist attractions will appreciate a new series of travel books making its debut next month. The Back Roads books, published by DK Eyewitness Travel, comprise guides to Italy, France, Great Britain, Ireland and Spain and come complete with pull-out maps to make sure you don’t go off course while going, er, off course. us.dk.com

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Skiing down a black-diamond slope takes all of 45 seconds, skydiving lasts about ﬁve minutes, and unless you’re touring France, bike rides rarely exceed a couple hours. But with the help of the ContourHD helmet camera, those experiences can last forever. The astonishingly light camera (4.3 ounces), which securely attaches to helmets, handlebars or, for the truly adventurous, heads, records everything you see in strikingly clear high deﬁnition. That way, when no one believes you jumped a bear on your snowboard, you’ll have proof.

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Juan Pablo Montoya whereabouts

“I used to live in Monaco, and I would have to ﬂy twenty-eight or thirty hours to a race. Now that I’m with Nascar and I live in Miami, the ﬂights are nice and short. So even though my racing season runs from February to November, I can actually travel more for fun.

Juan Pablo Montoya races the No. 42 Target Chevy in the Nascar Sprint Cup Series.

HUBERVICBYPHOTOGRAPH 35

“WHEN I WAS RACING WITH FORMULA ONE, one of my favorite cities was Singapore. The weather there is really nice and the shopping is great, but if I really wanted to relax I would go to Phuket, in Thailand. There’s a hotel there called the Amanpuri, and my family and I would rent a private villa there right on the beach. Oh my God, it is stupid nice.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBRUARY 2010

The Places I Go:

“We went to Aruba this year. It’s very American now, but it’s still a great place to spend a week, and for kids it’s good because you have both a McDonald’s and lots of really upscale restaurants. Also the windsurﬁng is great. I love windsurﬁng, but even in Miami, where I live, the water is too cold for me.”

Make your way to Cristo Street, where you’ll ﬁnd the Cathedral of San Juan Bautista (151–153 Calle del Cristo; catedralsanjuan.com), the second-oldest cathedral in the western hemisphere. Built in 1521, the cathedral is both captivating and a little creepy (it contains the tomb of Spanish explorer and Puerto Rico’s ﬁrst governor, Juan Ponce de Léon). ( 2:00 )

Continue along Fortaleza Street until you arrive at Barrachina (104 Fortaleza St.; barrachina.com), which claims to be the birthplace of the piña colada. Indulge yourself with an umbrella-adorned glass, and then decide if you’d like to sample the mofongo (plantains fried with meat) or asopao (a traditional meat and vegetable stew). You can’t go wrong. ( 1:30 )

No visit to Old San Juan would be complete without a look at Puerto Rico’s best-known fortress. So bite the bullet and make the long walk up to the Castillo de San Felipe del Morro. Millions of people annually explore the garitas (sentry boxes) while soaking in some of that blazing Caribbean sun. Even if military history doesn’t interest you, the view most certainly will. ( 4:40 )

36 ILLUSTRATION BY OLIVER JEFFERS BOARDING PASS Fly United to the birthplace of the piña colada, and escape the winter blues with daily nonstop ﬂights to San Juan from Chicago Washington.and First things ﬁrst: souvenirs. Puerto Rican Art and Crafts (204 Fortaleza St.; puertoricanart-crafts.com) has it all, from high-end ceramics to handmade jewelry. But what you want is a mask of a vejigante, the clownlike characters that delight (and sometimes scare) crowds at Puerto Rican festivals. ( 0:20 )

As your trip winds down, you should too. Stroll down the quaint Paseo de la Princesa, a picturesque path packed with trees, pedestrians and kiosks selling the best fresh-squeezed orange juice you’ll ever have. Make it a double. (5:00)

There’s no time for a swim, but you can take a gander at the shimmering Caribbean. Head to Plazuela de la Rogativa for optimum gazing. If you can pull your eyes from the sea, you’ll notice four statues honoring a procession of cunning Catholic believers that scared off a British invasion in 1797. Divine. ( 2:30 )

Now it’s time for tunes. Puerto Rico prides itself on an eclectic array of genres, from the loud and pounding reggaeton to the more traditional bomba, but at the Museo de Pablo Casals (101 San Sebastián St.), it’s all about the cello. The founder of the Puerto Rico Symphonic Orchestra, Casals has a legacy as big as the museum’s library of recordings. Go ahead, have a listen. ( 2:50 )

Walk down San Sebastian Street to Casa Blanca (1 San Sebastian St.) and poke around the magnificent Ponce de Léon family home. Though Juan himself never lived here, his descendants did for more than 250 years. Now it’s a museum detailing the remarkable history of Puerto Rico’s first first family. ( 3:25 )

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Mind

VLADIMIR HOROWITZ THE BERLINLEGENDARYCONCERT

What else to listen to on the go in February

In trip-hop, time is elastic, which may explain how seven years have passed since MA’s last proper release. The update is a pulsating journey, with vocals by Damon Albarn, Hope Sandoval, and Tunde Adebimpe.

SADE SOLDIER OF LOVE

Gainsbourg expresses her pain clearly on the title track of IRM, her new album. The song’s shadowy rhythms swirl and ping-pong beneath Gainsbourg’s voice in a techno-pop simulation of the sound of an MRI (the English translation of IRM). “Analyze EKG,” she sings. “Can you see a memory?” The album was written and produced by Beck, and the haunting track is a direct reference to Gainsbourg’s own MRI and subsequent brain surgery.

MASSIVE ATTACK HELIGOLAND

After surviving a freak accident, Charlotte Gainsbourg rebounds with an award at Cannes and a sultry new album with Beck.

This newly heraldedHorowitz’sreleaseremasteredfrommostconcerttourdisplaystheﬂeet-ﬁngeredpianomasterathisdynamicandmesmerizingbest.

SITTING IN HER SUN-FILLED LOFT in Paris, willowy, dark-eyed, 38-year-old Charlotte Gainsbourg is happy to have a little quiet time. It’s been a hard year. “I would even say a traumatic one,” she says in her dusky French accent, recalling the brain injury she suffered while waterskiing. Even the award she won at the Cannes International Film Festival (for her role in the latest ﬁlm by Danish provocateur Lars von Trier) was hard-earned. Making the ﬁlm was a painful experience. “It’s good to have it behind me,” she says.

ALSO THIS MONTH

BY K. LEANDER WILLIAMS Games

Brooklyn writer K. LEANDER WILLIAMS was never a fan of waterskiing.

“IRM actually ended up having two meanings,” says Gainsbourg, the daughter of English actress-singer Jane Birkin and her musical Svengali, the iconic crooner Serge Gainsbourg. “Obviously, the accident frames the initial meaning. But then as we completed the record, it seemed to me that both experiences were about putting yourself in someone else’s hands, allowing them to look inside you. I hadn’t really written songs before, so once Beck and I decided to work together, I let him take the reins. It was fascinating to watch him in the studio, building tracks from the ground up—one rhythm and instrument after another.”Thetime she spent in L.A. helped her get acquainted with American culture. “Beck’s lyrics contain images from the blues and other American references that I was unfamiliar with at ﬁrst,” she says. To start the new decade, Gainsbourg is confronting one of her biggest fears: She’s going on tour. “Frankly, it horriﬁes me,” she says with a smoky laugh. “The extent of my performing experience so far is doing two songs during one of Air’s concerts,” she adds, referring to the French lounge act. “I was scared to death, but it made me wonder why I didn’t start doing this at eighteen.”

Chilling out is about taking your time, one of soul icon Sade’s specialties: It’s been almost a decade since her last album. The singles off this edgy new release suggest her famed groove is as smooth as ever.

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The Odds: 15–1

THEORY 4: THE BLANK SLATE

40 AFTER FIVE INCREASINGLY convoluted seasons of time travel, Egyptian mythology and sweaty jungle hikes, ABC’s Lost is ﬁnally set to resolve its tangled web this winter. But despite hours of Zapruderesque freeze-framing, our total understanding of the knotty narrative amounts to the following: Kate Austen is played by Evangeline Lilly. Fortunately, we were able to ask Entertainment Weekly’s resident Lost expert, Jeff Jensen, and popular Lost blogger “Doctor Arzt” to lay odds on a few of the most likely scenarios.

The Odds: 4–1

Expert Opinion: Doctor Arzt is intrigued but unconvinced. “There was deﬁnitely a certain friendliness about their conversation,” he says.

Expert Opinion: Doctor Arzt is “totally behind this possibility, in a purely agnostic kind of way.” Jensen is skeptical, saying bluntly, “I’m not a believer.”

Expert Opinion: “I love this idea,” Doctor Arzt gushes. “Lost fans would be completely disarmed.” Jensen echoes the sentiment but adds a caveat: “Many fans are worried that the ‘reboot’ theory negates ﬁve years’ worth of drama.”

The Odds: 108–1

The Idea: Maybe those bumbling dogooders in the Dharma Initiative, the shadowy organization that built the island’s bunkers, accidentally released a slew of spirits when attempting to tap a pocket of electromagnetic energy. The Others—another shadowy group—have either been battling said ghosts or doing their ghostly bidding ever since.

The Idea: When Jack and Kate discover a pair of skeletons on the island and christen them “Adam and Eve,” they may be on to something. Maybe the island is actually the biblical Garden of Eden, with the diabolical Smoke Monster representing the angel meant to keep us mortals out. Perhaps this is why the Godlike Jacob has a nice biblical name?

How will ABC’s byzantine brain-scrambler wrap things up?

THEORY 1: THE GARDEN OF EDEN

The Idea: At the start of the Season 5 ﬁnale, the Others’ big boss, Jacob, shares a beach with another mysterious immortal. Though it’s assumed that the two are archnemeses, what if the entire conﬂict of the series is merely a grand social experiment conducted by bored gods?

Expert Opinion: “Not implausible, but I wish this theory explained the Others’ connection to the seemingly supernatural Jacob,” Jensen muses.

Hemispheres asked the experts. BY MATT THOMPSON // BY SONIA ROY

ILLUSTRATION

The Odds: 23–1

Lost Horizonsvision FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED .COM ABCOFSTREIBER/COURTESYARTBYCHARACTERSOFPHOTOGRAPHS

The Idea: All of that time-traveling may have been for naught. When Juliet set off the nuclear device at the bottom of the mine shaft, she may have created a totally new future, one in which the entire story never unfolds! Perhaps the ﬁnal season will consist of the characters going about their normal lives as time attempts to course-correct to their old reality.

Contributing writer MATT THOMPSON knows the real answer...he’s just not telling.

THEORY 3: THE BIG GAME

THEORY 2: PANDORA’S BOX

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// ILLUSTRATION

SCANDINAVIA IS CRAZY about crime. Norwegians celebrate Easter with a tradition known as Paaskekrim, which entails reading murder mysteries and watching detective shows. In Sweden a few years ago, there were slightly fewer novels about murder published (84) than actual murders (91). In Iceland, the murder rate is among the lowest in the world. So why did Scandinavia become a hotbed of top-shelf crime fiction? Is it the gloomy frostbitten winter? The unrelenting insomniac summers? Either way, Nordic crime fiction—characterized by fast-paced plotting, smart writing and crackling atmospherics—is creeping onto shelves crowded with CSI-driven procedurals. Somehow, the unabashedly literary tone of these Nordic stories has captured our imaginations. Mssrs. Cornwell and Connelly, meet Stieg Larsson, Henning Mankell, Jo Nesbø and Arnaldur Indridason. The breakthrough Nordic hit is Larsson’s Millennium trilogy, starting with The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo Larsson, a prominent journalist, died of a heart attack in 2004, before his completed series saw the light of day, but Dragon Tattoo along with sequels The Girl Who Played with Fire (2009) and The Girl Who Kicked the Hornet’s Nest (out in May in the U.S.) have gone on to sell 20 million copies. The trilogy’s success is surprising. Centered on the travails of a sexy young hacker, they are long, complex and slowpaced—not exactly catnip for sleuth fans. This month, the genre’s godfather, Mankell, releases The Man from Beijing Opening with the discovery of a puzzling multiple murder in a Swedish hamlet, the story follows judge Birgitta Roslin through a fascinating maze to China and Africa. It’s part white-knuckler, part historical fiction and part exegesis on “That’scolonialism.alink that connects all of the Scandinavian thrillers,” says Barbara Fister, a Nordic crime aficionado at Gustavus Adolphus College in Minnesota. “These societies spend a lot of time contemplating social justice.” Mankell, a 62-year-old Swedish icon, has been churning out crime fiction since 1977. “I use the mirror of crime to look at the whole society,” he has said. “I would never, ever think of writing a crime story for the sake of itself.”

Factorprint FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED .COM

Fear

Executive editor MIKE GUY has never seen CSI Scandinavia is full of mysteries. For instance, though it’s almost crime free, it’s overﬂowing with crime ﬁction. Why? BY MIKE GUY BY BEN GIBSON

Other spring releases include Norwegian writer Nesbø’s virtuosic The Devil’s Star, due out in March, about a brilliant alcoholic detective who follows a serial killer to the top ranks of the Oslo PD. And in May, Icelander Arnaldur Indridason’s Arctic Chill mines similar territory with the murder of a darkskinned teenager. Stick around for the surprising ending—nearly as surprising as the way Scandinavian writers have brought heat back to a tired genre.

“I use the mirror of crime to look at the whole society,” says Mankell. “I would never think of writing a crime story for the sake of itself.”

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Take a dowdy roadside diner (the U.K.’s Little Chef chain). Add one culinary mastermind (Fat Duck chef Heston Blumenthal). Whisk together, then bring to a boil... BY JAY CHESHES

44 FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED .COM food&drink

SHORTJOHNOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPH

FOR HALF A CENTURY, Fat Charlie, the toque-wearing mascot of the Little Chef restaurant chain, has been a pudgy beacon for hungry truckers and road-tripping families searching for sustenance during long hauls at the wheel. At its height in the 1980s, the chain had a virtual monopoly on roadside dining in Britain, with 330 outlets across the U.K. But due to changes in eating habits and increased competition, that number has dwindled to 177. Modeled on American diners, the restaurant’s sprawling menu was BURGERMEISTERS Popham cooks serve revamped fish-and-chips and burgers known for its lowbrow British grub. Massive breakfasts, served day and night, were by far the most popular items. Though the food was nothing to swoon over, whether you were outside of Manchester or just shy of Brighton, it did a reliable job of filling you up. So how to explain the mouthwatering fare I discovered—red wine–braised ox cheeks, steak with Béarnaise, mussels fragrant with white wine and herbs—at a Little Chef next to a gas station on the A303 near the tiny hamlet of Popham? And why were there Pop Rocks, black olives and saffron in the sweet custard trifle I devoured for dessert? Little Chef, it turns out, is growing up. After being rescued from bankruptcy in 2007 by new owners, the chain embarked on an unlikely experiment, singling out a typical Little Chef for public flogging on the national airwaves. Producers for Britain’s Channel 4 somehow convinced Heston Blumenthal, the country’s most exalted

Polishing Up a Greasy Spoon

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Big Chef Takes On Little Chef aired last January. On the pilot, Blumenthal had to come to grips with a kitchen without pots or pans—just a griddle, a deep fryer and a microwave. The kitchen staff was painfully unskilled. The dining room was an embarrassing mess, with ripped seats, peeling paint and stained carpets.

NOT-SO-FAST FOOD Scottish mussels with toast points, from the new menu

“They said, ‘Please, can you not do any research?’” recalls the stocky Blumenthal, in his usual chef whites, when I catch up with him at the Hinds Head, the classic pub he runs across the street from the Fat Duck in Bray. “I hadn’t set foot in a Little Chef in twenty years. As I got more immersed in it, I realized the enormity of the project.”

Ian Pegler, the ﬁnancial executive enlisted to bring the chain back from the brink (and a dead ringer for the Little Chef mascot) seemed to be looking to Blumenthal to pull off a miracle.

“There’s the world of cooking—my world,” says Blumenthal, “and then there’s Little Chef. It’s a different industry. The fact that they both produce food is amazing.

“But look, sometimes I will eat a readymade meal,” he adds. “And I deﬁnitely appreciate the difference between a really good one and a bad one.”

By the third episode, the project looked to be on the verge of collapse. Blumenthal and Pegler were butting heads, and the chef seemed to fear the whole scheme was nothing more than a publicity stunt. “He didn’t trust me,” recalls Pegler, sitting in a booth at the Popham Little Chef. “But he didn’t know me. And every time we’d meet we’d have a camera or a microphone somewhere between us.” Nonetheless, at the very last minute, the new Blumenthal menu made its splashy debut. The Popham Little Chef was thoroughly remodeled and now boasts a spiffy new dining room with shiny 46 food & drink

OPPOSITE)RIGHT,(BOTTOMSHORTJOHNOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

and imaginative chef—his acclaimed Fat Duck restaurant outside London has won three Michelin stars for such outlandish dishes as snail porridge and bacon-and-egg ice cream—to give their down-at-the-heels Popham branch a makeover. If the experiment succeeded, they’d roll it out companywide. At the very least, it’d make good television.

Throughout Europe, star chefs are increasingly putting their stamp on mass-market cuisine. Jamie Oliver is reinventing school lunches, Ferran Adrià is dabbling in fast food, and Joël Robuchon is putting out canned soups and sauces. The Little Chef experiment is Blumenthal’s way of joining in.

FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED.COM

white tiles and red-apple banquettes courtesy of a Blumenthal pal, designer Ab Rogers, whose work would normally be beyond the franchise’s reach. But the bigger change is what’s on the plates. The eggs are now freerange, the ground beef organic; there are fresh herbs on the chicken and Belgian chocolate in the pudding.

CLASSING UP THE JOINT The forlorn old Popham shop, left, and the spiffy Ab Rogers update

There are enough signature Blumenthal flourishes—the trifle with Pop Rocks, for instance, and a fish-andchips plate served with an atomizer that unleashes chip-shop aromas (really pickled onion juice)—that there’s no After the Popham store makeover, someone called asking if the airfield was nearby—he wanted to fly in for lunch.

Nonetheless, shortly after the program aired, the Popham restaurant became the hottest spot in the middle of nowhere. The restaurant, which doesn’t take reservations, began getting calls from people looking to make one. Celebrities popped in. “One day in the same lunch hour,” says Blumenthal, “you had pop star Suzi Quatro, Eric Clapton and the bloke who played Doctor Who all queuing up for a table.”

47 doubt the chef has left his mark. Still, it’s clearly not the Fat Duck, where a 13-course tasting menu will set you back £150 a head. Far from it. Most dishes remain under £10, and to ensure chainwide consistency, the dishes, based on Blumenthal recipes, are prepared by food packagers and reheated to order in hot water (a variation on the sous-vide technique used by high-end restaurants).

“There comes a point,” the chef allows with a smile, “you’ve got to try and get some level of ﬁnancial security.”

FEBRUARY

JAY CHESHES has covered star chefs for Fortune and W. He’d happily devour anything Heston Blumenthal cooked.

One fellow called asking how far the restaurant was from the local airfield— it’s directly across the street—because he was planning to fly in for lunch. “For three or four months, business was up eight hundred percent,” Pegler says. Though the frenzy has subsided somewhat, aftershocks continue. Little Chef plans to transform five more branches in the next year. Blumenthal, who may soon shoot a new program building on the Big Chef premise (working title: Michelin Impossible) in which he tackles other big projects, is in discussions with a grocery chain to develop his own line of packaged meals. Little Chef, in the end, may help sustain the Fat Duck, his very tiny and exorbitant-to-operate flagship restaurant, which employs a staff of around 75 to serve just 44 diners.

THE LITTLE CHEF THAT COULD Popham suddenly became the hottest spot in the middle of nowhere. CROSSWORD ANSWERS

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The Suzuki Method

BY JONNY LIEBERMAN GO AHEAD AND try to name the bestselling car in Japan. Honda Accord? Toyota Camry? Nope. It’s the Suzuki Wagon R, which you’ve probably never heard of and most certainly never seen. In fact, not only has the diminutive Wagon R been Japan’s top car for ﬁve consecutive years, Suzuki has built over three million of them—huge numbers for the island nation. Suzuki sold over $30 billion worth of product in 2008— manufacturing 3.5 million motorcycles and ATVs and 2.3 million cars. In the rapidly expanding Indian megamarket, Suzuki controls nearly 50 percent of the passenger car segment. Impressive numbers, no doubt, especially considering the company’s struggles to get a toehold in the United States. The last time a Suzuki generated any noise in the U.S. was way back in 1988, when Consumer Reports stated that the tiny off-roading Suzuki Samurai liked to roll over. While Suzuki disagreed with CR’s ﬁndings (to say the least), the damage was done. Like the Corvair, which had a poor safety record, and the Audi 5000, which was alleged by 60 Minutes to accelerate without warning, the Samurai—and by extension Suzuki—had what a publicist might call “an image problem.” Turns out Americans aren’t so keen on driving

THE DASHING KIZASHI IS SURPRISINGLY EASY ON THE EYES. It may not be a bite-the-back-of-your-hand stunner, but considering that it competes against vehicles often described as “appliances,” its tight, sporty lines, solid, conﬁdent feel on the road, and chrome detailing set it well apart from the pack. Suzuki has grafted its considerable motorcycle know-how onto the car, creating a highly responsive suspension (tuned on the world’s toughest tracks, like the famed Nürburgring in Germany), surprisingly precise steering, and a 2.4-liter, six-speed engine that punches the air. Very little about this sportster says “basic.”

CORP.MOTORSUZUKIAMERICANOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS cars they perceive to be unsafe, no matter the actual facts. (The Corvair was eventually made safer before it was discontinued. The Audi 5000, it turned out, worked just ﬁne, and 60 Minutes retracted its story.)

48 FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED.COM

THRILL RIDE What’s so great about the Kizashi, anyway?

There are few things as topsy-turvy as the U.S. auto industry today. Which is why something called a Kizashi, a new sedan from Suzuki—yes, Suzuki—might actually get some traction.

However, the Kizashi is a good starting point, he adds, because the price is right. Fully loaded, it costs a full $10,000 less than the Camry—an important discrepancy in a time of 10 percent unemployment.

VW also senses that Suzuki is picking up on a demographic shift and wants to capitalize on it. While baby boomers drove Camrys and Accords, Suzuki believes their kids may be ready for an alternative.“Wereally wanted to move the brand upscale,” says American Suzuki’s Jeff Holland. “If we’ve done everything right, the Kizashi will be a sharp contrast to past Suzuki offerings in that category.”

Although Suzuki continued to sell cars in the U.S. after the Samurai debacle, the models were dull and forgettable (heard anyone bragging about their Aerio lately?). Then in 2006, it released the SX4, a small, smart, sensible car codesigned with Fiat, which came fully loaded and with all-wheel drive for just under $20,000. Jaded automotive pundits murmured their approval, but Suzuki wanted them shouting the brand’s gospel from the rooftops. For that they’d need a great car. Enter the 2010 Kizashi, a midsize sedan that’s going to sell for less than other cars in its class. It might just be a game changer for theTheautomaker.U.S.automotive scene is always in flux. A generation ago, half of Americans were as devoted as golden retrievers to “The General,” a.k.a. General Motors. Imports were for hippies, eccentrics and rich dudes with multiple ex-wives. Today, Toyota is jockeying with Volkswagen for the title of world’s largest automaker, while GM struggles to find its way out of an onerous bankruptcy. Likewise, Chrysler, emerging from Chapter 11 itself, was recently supplanted by Honda as the nation’s fourth-largest automaker. While brand loyalty still plays a role in car purchases, at the end of the day, Americans are after a good deal. Which explains why Hyundai just built its one millionth car in North America, and why the company’s luxury flagship Genesis was named 2009 North American Car of the Year. Up is down, black is white. So can Suzuki pull a Hyundai? Reilly Brennan, editor-in-chief of AOL Autos, thinks so. “Suzuki is an underachiever in America,” he says. “If they can inject what they do in motorcycles into their car lineup, they have the makings of a product renaissance. The Kizashi moves them in the right direction.” Roughly translated from Japanese, Kizashi means “great thing coming.”

It’s a risky move, especially considering that Suzuki seems to be wagering all its chips on this one model. (Suzuki hasn’t announced the development of any new products for the U.S. after the Kizashi.) But as bets go, you could do worse.

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While it may not trip off the tongue, the name is as bold a statement as the car itself. This stylish four-door is aimed straight at the heart of the American car market—meant to compete with powerhouses like the Camry, Accord, Chevrolet Malibu and Ford Fusion, all hugely successful cars backed by the biggest nameplates in the business. It will also be competing with very competent midsize family sedans from the likes of Nissan, Mazda, Subaru and Hyundai. If all goes according to Suzuki’s plan, even people looking at Acuras and Audis might instead opt for a Kizashi.

While baby boomers snapped up Camrys and Accords, Suzuki believes their kids may be ready for an alternative.

The challenge is akin to selling denim against Levi’s and Wrangler. It’s not going to be easy. As Todd Lassa, an analyst for Motor Trend, points out, “Suzuki’s push for North America ran smack into the worst automotive market since the Great Depression.”

In December, VW purchased a 20 percent stake in Suzuki—a direct bid to tap into its massive share of the Indian market. But, Lassa says, it’s also a way for Suzuki to grow in the U.S. “I think VW wants to foster Suzuki’s success in America,” he says. “And the long-term plan will likely mean building Suzukis— including the Kizashi—at VW’s new assembly plant in Tennessee.”

L.A.-based writer JONNY LIEBERMAN used the Suzuki Method to learn the ﬂute.

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Wi-Fi Direct, a new technology poised to replace both Bluetooth and wires once and for all, was recently announced by the Wi-Fi Alliance—an Austin, Texas–based trade group that manages the wide world of wireless and includes such industry heavyweights as Intel, Apple and Microsoft. It will allow wireless devices to connect to and share data with one another without the use of a common server or network. What’s more, Wi-Fi Direct will be easy to use, operating on a peer-to-peer basis and requiring only a simple software update. “What we’ve done is applied garden-variety Wi-Fi technology to enable two client devices to talk to one another, print a picture, share a video game or display something on a ﬂatscreen TV,” says Kelly Davis-Felner, marketing director at Wi-Fi Alliance, adding that only one device, whether it’s your PlayStation or your printer, needs the software. That device will be able to automatically detect and sync with others within a 300-foot range. Built-in security measures would prevent you from unwittingly sharing intimate photos of your honeymoon with the guy two laptops down at Starbucks.

A new technology called Wi-Fi Direct aims to put wires—and Bluetooth—on the great technological scrap heap BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE BY GRACIA LAM vast majority of electronics have remained tethered to each other like huskies at theUntilIditarod.now.

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Out of the Blue

TO MANY, BLUETOOTH conjures images of unwieldy earpieces and loud talkers. But when the technology was developed in the mid-’90s, it was meant to have a much broader application than handsfree chatting. Bluetooth was supposed to eliminate not only the wires connecting cell phones to ear buds but those passing between all the other electronic devices in our lives: computers, cameras, headphones, robotic dogs. As those knots of plastic spaghetti under our desks plainly demonstrate, it never happened. The problem is Bluetooth’s slow transfer rate and limited range, which render it too weak for many applications. That’s left the world with some decent wireless keyboards and mice, but the vast majority of electronics have remained tethered to each other like huskies at the Iditarod. Until now.

In development for a year, Wi-Fi Direct should be everywhere by the middle of 2010. Tech bloggers, meanwhile, are already hailing it as the Bluetooth we never knew. “Farewell, Bluetooth,” wrote Gizmodo’s Jesus Diaz. “It was not a pleasure to meet you.”

Looking for a new route to walk, jog or run? This website and its iPhone app allow users to plot their own exercise paths in cities around the world and try out new ones plotted by others. Cyclists are welcome too. walkjogrun.net

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WALK JOG RUNDEALS.WOOT CAN’T YOU SEE I’M BUSY

ALYSSA GIACOBBE isn’t wearing a wireless headset. She’s talking to herself.

FEBRUARY 2010 50 techThe

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The Knee Diaries: SJ is a 60-year-old male with bone on bone osteoarthritis of the left knee. An X-ray showed arthritis of the knee (X-ray on the left). Patient started receiving treatments at The Center For Regenerative Medicine. Today he is feeling better (X-ray on the right). This is how it works: The physician introduces Cell Therapy into damaged, arthritic cells by means of a precise injection. This process is followed by infrared laser as well as several other modalities including Collateral Artery Flow Exercises (C.A.F.E.), in order to accelerate the process. Depending on tissue damage, severity of the condition and the size of the joint that needs to be injected, people usually need a series of 1 to 6 treatments to improve. There is usually no down time, and people can go back to their usual activities or work immediately. The treatments can help most musculoskeletal problems such as low back pain, neck pain, knee pain, shoulder pain, whiplash, sciatica, tendinitis, sprain, strains, torn ligaments and cartilage damage.

To deepen cultural understanding and provide hands-on support to dairy farmers and their Mexican employees in Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota. Farmers and workers are in a mutually beneficial relationship, Duvall says, but problems sometimes arise in rural communities that are unaccustomed to large influxes of newcomers. In the late 1990s, Duvall started Puentes (meaning “Bridges”) to teach English to farmworkers and Spanish to their employers, as well as to provide interpreting and support services—everything from arranging doctor visits to helping figure out bills. Later she began taking agricultural professionals on annual 10-day “cultural immersion trips” to villages in Mexico where the farmers stay with workers’ families. Duvall knew something special was happening on their first trip when she watched a strapping dairy farmer take the hand of two-year-old Lydia, the daughter of one of his workers. The toddler was the reason her father was in the United States—and the farmer, as his employer, was helping give Lydia a better life. On the Mexican side, the families were touched that a patron, an employer, would take the time to visit.

MOTIVATION • “Changing hearts and minds,” Duvall says. “Encouraging people to become more understanding and compassionate.”

52 hero

Shaun Duvall helps Midwestern farmers and their Mexican-born employees understand one another.

WHO • SHAUN DUVALL, 55 MISSION

HOW TO HELP • Duvall urges people to learn Spanish if they don’t already know it and reach out to non-English-speakers in their area. For more information, visit puentesbridges.org.

•

IN HER SPARE TIME • Duvall enjoys running, though she calls it “plodding.” (So far, she’s plodded through two marathons.) She’s also planning to write a book about Puentes.

BY JOAN FISCHER // PHOTOGRAPH BY JONATHAN CHAPMAN Building Bridges

Of course, it’s also pretty ﬂattering to be called “angel de los Mexicanos,” a nickname that makes her blush.

FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED.COM

“People lose sleep either because they cannot sleep or because they are not setting aside enough time for sleepboth of which can happen because of work-related stress in the current economic environment,” said Dr David White, chief medical officer for Philips Home Healthcare “PeopleSolutions.simply need to take sleep much more seriously. Sleep is not optional – it is absolutely critical to people’s health,” said Dr White.

Respondents were also polled on their awareness of obstructive sleep apnea (OSA), a condition in which people repeatedly stop breathing during sleep: 66% of all respondents had heard of OSA.

The survey was undertaken by TNS during March 2009, polling 2,500 managers in the UK, Germany, USA, Japan and The Netherlands. As a health and well-being company – and leader in the sleep management market - Philips commissioned the survey to get an indication of peoples’ sleep habits and their awareness of the impact of sleep on health and quality of life. Philips offers sleep therapy products that are designed to encourage patients’ acceptance of OSA therapy through increased comfort. The end result is improved sleep and, ultimately, improved quality of life. Find out more at www.Philips.com/because.

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Americans are more likely than other nationalities to lose sleep because of stress at work, a survey by Philips has Nearlyfound.athird of American managers blamed stressful work for their lack of sleep, followed by 27% of Germans, 24% of Britons, 20% of Japanese, and just 12% of Dutch

Themanagers.global survey found that 72% of them were not getting the recommended eight hours a night. The worsening global economy was cited as the major reason for poor sleep by 40% of respondents.

The Golfer’s Dream Package $199 per night Accommodations for two in a One-Bedroom Suite 18 holes of championship golf with golf cart, for two $199 per night, Sun-Thurs or $289 per night Fri-Sat. This rate is available until April 15, 2010 and is based on single or double occupancy. Promotional rate does not include occupancy tax or resort fee. The Wine Taster’s Dream Package $139 per night Accommodations for two in a Resort Guestroom Picnic lunch for two at V. Sattui Winery Wine tastings at four select Napa Valley wineries: Artesa, Mumm, Black Stallion, and Robert Mondavi This rate is available until April 15, 2010 and is based on single or double occupancy. Promotional rate does not include occupancy tax or resort fee. 1600 Atlas Peak Road, Napa, CA 94558 | 707.257.0200 | www.silveradoresort.com | | SILVERADO RESORT MEETINGS • ACCOMMODATIONS • DINING • GOLF • SPA

55 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBRUARY artifact2010Perhaps better known for its poutine, Montreal is secretly home to a delicious variety of petite . St-Viateur and Fairmount bakeries churn them out piping hot. PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAIRE BENOIST art if act p p ,y elicious bagels bakeries churn them out hot. P A PH B Y CL AIRE BEN OIST 56 AHHH... A visit to Bangkok’s famed S Medical Spa By OsborneLawrence 64 THERE WON’T BE BLOOD A new type of bullﬁght spares the bull. By Edward Lewine 68 3PD: MONTREAL See Canada’s feisty Francophone gem. By Maura Egan FEATURES

1. THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS RESORT BORA BORA BORA BORA, FRENCH POLYNESIA // Part of a chain of tiny islands in the South Paciﬁc, Bora Bora brings new meaning to getting away from it all. Honeymooners and the very privileged jet in for the ultimate in luxurious escape and Robinson Crusoe fantasy. Topping it all off is the Kahaia Haven Ritual. Priced at 30,000 French Paciﬁc Francs (about $360), the couples inbestvanilla,powderincorporatestreatmentblackpearlandTahitiansaidtobetheandmostfragranttheworld.

THE WORLD’S MOST OUTRAGEOUSLY RELAXING SPAS 57

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As a rule, it’s pretty hard to ﬁnd a bad spa treatment—but lots of fun to try. Spas specialize in coddling us and indulging our whims, and in recent years the ﬁeld has reached hedonistic new heights. As a result, there’s more relaxing to do than ever, and so little time! In an effort to help you narrow down the many options for self-indulgence, we’ve traversed the globe to bring you the most interesting and decadent treatments at the most exquisite spas on earth. (Tough job, but someone’s got to do it.) What sets these palaces of pampering apart is the way they incorporate local customs and ingredients—offering wraps, rubs and scrubs to make you feel brand new. Enjoy.

ItFortunately,youdon’tactuallyhavetosuffertoenjoysuchsynergies.SpasthatmixardentpamperingwithmoreelaboratedermatologicaltreatmentsandevensurgicalproceduresarealreadyagrowingtrendintheU.S.,wherethereItwas

while I was lying in Bumrungrad International Hospital years ago, dying from an inflammation of the epiglottis, that I first discovered the inimitable Thai genius for mixing medicine with pleasure. My five-star hospital offered massage, gourmet sushi and liposuction, and there were moments when I pondered indulging in all three at once. Cured of my ailment a few days later, I was almost sorry to be discharged.

Huge kapok trees pressing against the windows create a mood of jungle luxury. Coming into Dr. Thavisin’s temple of healing is like stepping into a gentle future in which doctors coddle and pamper us and where healing is a consumer experience on par with gourmet shopping and mani-pedis. The only shame is that one can’t get a bypass done here, or a liver transplant. Colonic irrigation, yes. “Art and Science” is the spa’s motto.

are 1,800 such facilities and several state legislatures looking to regulate the industry. So-called medical spas can provide a lucrative sideline for doctors increasingly looking for revenue streams that don’t involve haggling with insurance companies, and at the same time offer beleagured patrons a one-stop wellness shop. Bangkok’s wildly popular medical spas fuse these elements with a generous dollop of Eastern religion. One late autumn morning, slightly worse for wear after an overindulgent dinner party the night before at the home of a Thai prince, I stumble into one of these establishments, the S Medical Spa, with the intention of setting myself right. Just four years old, S, the trendy brainchild of Dr. Pakpilai Thavisin, has already established itself as perhaps the leading medical spa in Southeast Asia, rivaling the luxurious Chiva-Som in Hua Hin. Situated on Wireless Road, next to the Nai Lert Park hotel, the low white structures of the spa share the hotel’s lavish gardens, which are famous for their stone lingams—or symbolic phalluses—left over from a previous age. (Every garden should have a few.)

IN TREATMENT TRAVEL WRITER LAWRENCE OSBORNE TAKES A BREATHER AT BANGKOK’S ACCLAIMED S MEDICAL SPA.

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3. SPA AT THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL NEW YORK CITY // Masters and mistresses of the universe ascend to the 35th ﬂoor of this swank hotel, retreating to its well-appointed spa for billion-dollar views and custom treatments. A blissful two-hour Signature Therapy ($450) begins with a survey that’s only slightly less probing than an IRS audit. The payoff is a no-holds-barredbePark.vistasshowstoppingaccompaniedparticulartailoredmassagetoyourwoes,byofCentralIt’sgoodtoking.

2. LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE BORDEAUX, FRANCE // At the handsome cedarwood spa at Les Sources, nestled amid acres of rolling vineyards, the local vintages are put to more decadent uses than simple drinking. A day begins with a bath in a wine barrel ﬁlled with crushed grapes. Then, as a part of the Honey and Wine Wrap ($87), oenophiles are slathered in hot wine yeast and essential oils. As the sun goes down, refreshed bons vivants celebrate the power of the polyphenol with a delicious grand cru. The reportedlyMadonnaage-defyingisafan.

There are four resident doctors and acupuncturists, as well as dietitians and nurses. There’s a nutritionally approved restaurant on the ground floor, serving “S-Lite Spa Cuisine,” and a lobby that looks like that of a boutique hotel, with Naugahyde armchairs, bubbling fish tanks (though, oddly, no fish) and elegant floors decorated with colored crystals. Dressed like a runway model, and speaking flawless English, Dr. Thavisin herself ushers me upstairs to her office with a regal energy, her excellent jewelry glittering.

“We’re a new kind of clinic, I suppose,” she explains. “A fusion of a spa and a hospital. What we do here is use medically proven techniques for getting you back to your youth. Doesn’t everyone want to get back to their youth?” As we walk past treatmentWHITNEYBYORIENTAL),(MANDARINFRIEDBERGADAMBYSPA),(SWISECHRISTOPHERBYPHOTOGRPAHS VENUESTHEOFCOURTESYOTHERSALLVALS);(THERMEP2CL/FLICKROFCOURTESY(MAYFLOWER),LAKE

4. THERME VALS VALS, SWITZERLAND // South of Zurich, high in the Swiss Alps, the traditional baths at Vals were redesigned by Peter Zumthor in 1996, and the resulting spaces make guests feel as if they’ve helicoptered into a Bond ﬁlm (Daniel Craig era). Owing to the resort village’s middleclass roots, the treatments in this concrete and quartzite cathedral tend toward functional—think a architecture.modernistandJustof(notDrainageLymphatic50-minuteMassageforthefaintheart),at$158.liebackcontemplate

THE BIG CHILL From left, getting a rubdown; a staff member with fresh towels; the chicly designed lobby

5. MAYFLOWER INN & SPA WASHINGTON, CONNECTICUT // There’s a reason Park Avenue grand dames and Greenwich society hostesses look so well rested (and it’s not what you think). At the utterly tasteful Relais and Châteux property Mayflower Inn, the debutante set tops off days filled with horseback riding and doubles tennis with the Mayflower Magnetic Facial ($180), 60 blissful minutes of it’sfundraiserthoseofAftercirculation.andinflsaidwitchcraftdermatologicaltoreduceammationstimulatedecadesattendingnightlygalas,justthetrick.

TEA TIME Blue Pea Flower tea is a house favorite at S Medical Spa. 61

7. THE LAKEHOUSE SPA, LAKE AUSTIN SPA RESORT AUSTIN, TEXAS // Desert roses and travel-weary golf buffs pad about in plush robes at this country-chic resort on the shores of Lake Austin. After debating the merits of local BBQ joints (a passion-stirring and exhausting pursuit), it’s time to unwind with the grand 110-minute Tour of Texas treatment ($315). Start with a prickly pear scrub, then move on to a essentialguessedmassageoil”beforealoesunburn-soothingverawrapyou“strikeduringawith,youit,warmoils.

“BOTOX, MASSAGE, ACUPUNCTURE, ULTRASOUND. YOU NAME IT, WE COMBINE IT,” THE DOCTOR SAYS, ADDING, “I CAN MAKE ANYONE’S SKIN LOOK LIKE A TEENAGER’S.” to conﬂict with modern society?” Certainly not, I reply, then reluctantly plead guilty to the second count.

Since teenage skin wouldn’t really suit me, I opt for an in-house diagnostics test known as a BEM, or Bio-Energy Medicine, which involves applying sensors to my head, wrists and ankles. The sensors are hooked up to a small, box-shaped machine called a Quantum Xrroid Interface System that supposedly measures “bio-energetic forces.” True, these forces are not yet recognized by the serious scientiﬁc community, but what do they know?

THE DOCTOR IS IN From left, S Medical Spa’s reception area; Dr. Pakpilai Thavisin; a hydrotherapy pool

“Your energy ﬂow is quite good,” the

If I have this right, the machine scans all 200 trillion cells in the body, measuring one’s vitamin levels, amino acids, natural sugars, toxins, hormone levels, muscle tone, disease, bacteria, molds, fungi and viruses. Following the scan, the system wants to know more. “Is sex drive deﬁcient?” the computer wonders. “Is there an emotional link

6. THE SPA AT ENCANTADO SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO // Guests at the newest Auberge resort, which sits at an altitude of 7,000 feet in the Sangre de Cristo mountains, might feel as scaly as lizards in this arid climate. That condition is easily remedied at the resort’s airy adobe spa. You’ll start with a complimentary Puriﬁcation Ritual—an exfoliation with cactus-ﬁber cloth, a soak and a cup of sage tea. Then it gets tastier, treatmentswithsuch as the Blue Corn and Honey exfoliation.bluenachos—well,creativepointsscrub.90-minute($245),RenewalavigorousbodyBonusfortheuseofcorn—for

suites ﬁlled with hydrotherapy equipment, a pharmacy and a Botox room, I think, Some of it.... “We use everything from the West and the East,” the doctor continues. “We stimulate your lymphatic system. We improve your circulation. Botox, massage, acupuncture, Chinese medicine, ultrasound—you name it, we combine it. Then we move on to the skin treatments. I began as a dermatologist, so we are peerless on that front. I can make anyone’s skin look like a teenager’s.” Thavisin branched into holistic medicine after she lost her brother to cancer several years ago. The conventional treatments he received struck her as woefully inadequate, and she became determined to invent her own synthesis of approaches.

doctor tells me when the test is done. “But you are too mentally active.” “Is there a cure?” “Diet, massage and lifestyle,” she replies. “And a dose of Thailand, too.”

indicate likely exposure to motor oil and grain mill dust. My “possible most stressedI“Frontalorgan”?lobe,brain.”optforanSmassage treatment, the well-named Cool Guy Massage, which turns out to be a massage so powerful, so hypnosis-inducing that I wonder where it’s been all my life. It’s administered by a man (unusual for Thailand), a deep-tissue probing followed by a lighter surface rubdown. As I lie there watching the banyans dripping with monsoon rain, no longer in the slightest bit stressed, I feel the force of the Thai saying (repeated in every tourist brochure) “Mai pen rai.” “Never mind” is the common rendering, but a more apt translation would be “Que sera sera.”

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It can’t be denied that doses of Thailand—even muggy, traffic-cursed Bangkok—seem to have a miraculous effect upon my usually dismal blood-pressure scores. (My typical in-country regimen of daily two-hour foot massages might have something to do with it.) My BEM results also reveal a few respiratory problems and

8. WILLOW STREAM AT FAIRMONT MAYAKOBA RIVIERA MAYA, MEXICO // On the east coast of Mexico, the azure sea and a salt-rimmed margarita are never far off. If that’s not enough to restore your spirit, the spa at this oceanfront resort offers a taste of the region’s Mayan roots (without the human sacriﬁce). During the 90-minute Cha Chac Rain Ritual ($229), named for the Mayan god of rain, a blessing is recited and cornmealwrappedguestsburned.incenseThenareinand oats and left to dry before rinsing off in a rain shower.

Veteran travel writer LAWRENCE OSBORNE has surprisingly supple insteps.

“Did you know that massage helps you live longer?” Dr. Thavisin asks when it’s over. “It’s proven. Massage should be part of every health care system.”“Ican’t quite imagine Congress passing massage funds,” I tell her. “Yes, but it would make a lot of sense,” she replies. “Americans work so very hard.”

9. THE ALLISON INN AND SPA NEWBERG, OREGON // Nestled in the wine country of Willamette Valley, the Allison Inn and Spa—the creation of philanthropist Joan Austin—is the most anticipated opening in the Paciﬁc Northwest in years. Built in the style of a WPA lodge rendered luxurious and surrounded by tall ﬁrs, rolling vineyards and hazelnut orchards, the cozy inn serves top-end farm-to-table cuisine, and the spa treatments.createpinotWillamette’swhich“pinotherapy,”steamartstate-of-the-featuresmassage,bathsandusesthegrapestoanti-aging

WON’TTHEREBEBLOOD SOME BEAUTIFUL.OTHERSISBULLFIGHTINGTHINKBRUTAL.FINDIT ILLUSTRATIONS BY SEAN MCCABE BY EDWARD65LEWINENOW ONE LAS VEGAS PROMOTER IS PUSHING A KINDER, GENTLER VERSION OF THE SPECTACLE,TRADITIONAL HARDVELCROSUBSTITUTINGFORCOLD,STEEL. FEBRUARYHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM2010

Advantage Ferdinand. in the facility’s rodeo arena. The idea was to sign up the best Spanish and Mexican matadors—which he did— and market the bullﬁghts as an elite event with special VIP seats going for hundreds of dollars. Together they’d ﬁnance the events, and before long...olé!

The spectacle of bullﬁghting in Vegas may not be drawing the big crowds yet, but it does make a certain kind of sense—and with the right marketing, it just might work. After all, visitors to Sin City have been lining up to see Siegfried & Roy don spangled suits and tangle with dangerous wild animals for years.

Without having been weakened by the gory stabbing that bulls suffer in traditional fights, the beast is free to do what it wants. Evidently, what it wants more than anything is to hook its left horn around the nearly helpless matador’s legs and jerk the poor fellow skyward. I’m impressed. At the bare minimum this is more interesting than, say, a kick line of Elvis impersonators. The crowd—many from corrida-loving countries such as Mexico and Portugal, along with a handful of curiosity seekers who’ve pried themselves from the gaming floor—is sparse, scattered throughout the 4,400seat arena. But this is a bold new idea, and a new frontier for bullfighting. Sometimes it takes a while for bold ideas to catch on. Three twentysomething guys are perched on seats near me, washing down popcorn with bottles of suds. “That dude’s insane,” one of them observes, as the matador, who has just come crashing to the ground, staggers to his feet in obvious agony and lurches back toward the bull for another go. The fight ends around 10 p.m. As the crowd files out, the man behind the event, a large, baby-faced 48-yearold named Pedro Haces Barba (though he goes by Don Bull), sits in the grandstand, sipping a tumbler of tequila. He operates more than a dozen bullrings in Mexico, but he always wanted to break into the American market. So in the spring of 2009, he approached Michael Gaughan, owner of the South Point Casino, about doing a continuing series of monthly bullfights

“This is my dream,” he says earnestly. “To host bullﬁghts in America’s entertainment capital is something you will never forget.”

Consider Don Bull’s Las Vegas bullfights the sport’s “soft” opening in America. Sure, there are dozens of small-time bloodless bullfights held in the country each year, put on mostly by central California’s Portuguese community. But those are held with little fanfare and zero press. What makes these Vegas bullfights different is they are being widely advertised, offered as a monthly attraction in

THE BULL

The matador—a slender Spaniard in a spangled orange suit—strides out to meet it. We’re not in Madrid or Tijuana, but the indoor rodeo stadium at the South Point, a hotel and casino off the Las Vegas Strip, and this is Vegas’ latest attraction: a bloodless bullﬁght, meaning no assailing the bull with swords or spears the way bullﬁghters usually do, no “death in the afternoon,” as Hemingway put it.

“I think this is a definite step toward the disappearance of bullfighting within the next ten to fifteen years,” the renowned French bullfighting promoter Simón Casas told the Spanish press.

Aficionados say bullfighting is an intricate brush with death for both the bull and the bullfighter, and a crucible that reveals the qualities of an animal bred for fearlessness. To them, the violence isn’t gratuitous. Charging the horse and facing the spear reveal the bull’s bravery. The fighters use the spears and banderillas to lower the bull’s neck and slow it down so the matador can “dance” with it. The bull is killed, 66 In the Las Vegas corrida, the bull has a Velcro patch glued to its back. There’s no horse, no spear, no barbed banderillas

To understand what he means, it helps to know what a “real” bullfight is. Firstly, it is not a sport; no one who loves it pretends it is. In fact, a bullfight is a spectacle in which six bulls are ritually dispatched. It unfolds in three acts, with several main players. The bull charges a padded horse, and a mounted picador spears the bull’s neck; bandilleros then place three pairs of barbed darts in the bull’s back; finally, the matador emerges and uses his cape to “dance” with the bull before killing it with a sword.

. TO SOME,

THE SPECTACLE VIOLATES THE VERY ESSENCE OF BULLFIGHTING.

bursts out of the corral like a snorting runaway semi, 1,000 pounds of muscle and bad attitude topped with horns.

“The danger here is that you have big stars taking part in what amounts to a pantomime of a real bullﬁght.”

FEBRUARYHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM2010 America’s entertainment capital and starring top matadors. Not unexpectedly, these bloodless bullfights have stirred up controversy. Animal activists have protested that even without the evident cruelty, the Vegas events exploit the bulls. But the most vocal protests have come from the bullfighting community itself, which complains that the fights aren’t cruel enough. The bullfighting press has described bloodless bullfighting as a buffoonery, and consequently some of the big stars who initially agreed to appear—Don Bull’s prize acquisitions— have withdrawn.

they say, because it has learned the trick of the cape and can never again appear in a “It’sbullfight.actually a complex and technical art,” argues Robert Weldon, a New Yorker who teaches Spanish and takes part in amateur bullfights. “It doesn’t make much sense to people who haven’t grown up with it, and that’s part of the reason why it rarely does well outside the Spanish-speaking world.” Even so, bullfighting is in no danger of dying out. There are twice as many corridas per year in Spain and France as there were 40 years ago. European bullfights alone generate billions every year, and the tradition continues to thrive in Central and South America. Mostly, what has changed is the scope and volume of anti-bullfighting protests, especially in western Europe. The Spanish government recently removed live corridas from state television for the first time since TV was invented. Calls to ban bullfighting and end agricultural subsidies to bull breeders have become an annual ritual in the European Parliament. There’s a growing movement afoot to ban bullfighting in the Spanish region of Catalonia and its capital, Barcelona. “Bullfighting is under attack like never before,” says Stephen Higgins, an American filmmaker whose 2008 documentary, The Matador, about a Spanish bullfighter, won rave reviews. “People in the bullfighting business have become quite sensitive about it, and with good reason.”

This was the note sounded by Spanish star matador Julian Lopez, El Juli, when he announced he’d be withdrawing from the Vegas bullﬁghts.

“When they first put me under contract, they assured me this would be the first step to implanting the full Spanish bullfight in America,” El Juli told the bullfighting website Burladero.com. “It hasn’t worked out that way.” He was disappointed by the bloodlessness, he explained, which he didn’t find to be at all “Spanish.”

THE LASOVERTENSIONTHEVEGASbullfights has played out against this backdrop. Is Don Bull the savior of bullfighting or the herald of its demise? In Vegas, the bull has a Velcro patch glued to its back. There’s no horse, no spear, no barbed banderillas The matador—who puts himself at risk, since the bull is never speared—“kills” his prey symbolically. In short, Don Bull’s spectacle violates the very essence of bullfighting: It removes the crucible of bravery—at least for the animal. Bullfighting advocates worry that what Don Bull is trying to do—somehow render bullfighting acceptable outside the Spanish-speaking world—will actually achieve the opposite. Without the drama of the dance, the advocates argue, what’s the point?

Nonetheless, fans who attended the first four Vegas bullfights were pleased with what they saw. The matadors were legit stars and the bulls were brave specimens from the ranch of Manuel Costa in Los Banos, California, the most respected breeder on American soil. “Don Bull put on as good a bullfight as you can in Las Vegas,” says Lydia Ackerman, 61, a New Yorker who attends corridas all over the world. Only a handful of people have shown up; and the corridas scheduled for December were canceled. A notice on the Don Bull website says bullfights for 2010 are “being prepared,” but Gaughan worries about about the project’s future.

It’s 10:15 a.m. on the day after the bullﬁght, and matador Juan José Padilla, a Spaniard known as the “Cyclone from Jerez,” has been up all night playing blackjack. He’s the one who was tossed by the bull, and I can see he is still in considerable pain. But despite having ﬂown from Spain to risk his life in front of just a few hundred people, Padilla is smiling. He wins $50 in chips, puffs his gigantic cigar and rattles off something in a thick southern-Spanish accent to the dealer. The dealer looks at me, uncomprehending. “He just told you he loves you,” I tell her. “And he loves Las Vegas.”

“We put on a great show,” he says. “But we’ve each lost at least a hundred thousand dollars. I’m not sure how much longer this can go on.”

DIGITALRD/KABIK/RETNAANDDURHAMKIMBERLYBYPHOTOGRAPHS

WHO’S THE BOSS? Pedro “Don Bull” Haces Barba on the Strip with his prized matadors

One group who’d like to keep it going are the Spanish matadors. They were well paid, to the tune of $50,000 each, and Vegas is a convenient stop between regular seasons in Mexico and Spain.

EDWARD LEWINE is the author of Death and the Sun: A Matador’s Season in the Heart of Spain

A DAB OF FROSTING Parc du Mont-Royal blanketed in snow MONTREAL70 DAY ONE Pedaling through the Old Port 72 DAY TWO Seeing Canada’s ﬁnest ﬁne art 76 DAY THREE Hiking through the park Three Perfect Days Once a remote fur-trading post, Montreal is now a thriving modern city brimming with Old World charm. BY MAURA EGAN // PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER FRANK EDWARDS 69 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBRUARY 2010

BILLY MAVREAS OWNER, GALERIE MONASTIRAKI // Riddell Fishing Tackle & Appliances has always been a source of fascination for me. It’s a messy little joint crammed full of trophies and talismans made and collected by George Riddell, an avid ﬁsherman and luremaker who opened the place in the ’60s. ESRA CAROLINE RØISE

ILLUSTRATIONS BY

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CANADIAN GOTHIC Opposite, Notre-Dame Basilica; this page, clockwise from above, the Montreal skyline, XO Restaurant at Hotel Le StJames, and the hotel spa 1

DAY ONE Wake up in a four-poster bed at the very posh Hotel Le St-James (1) feeling like an Industrial-era trade baron. The St. James is in the former Merchants Bank, in what was once the hub of the city’s fur trade. As soon as you step outside, you picture 19th century tycoons parading by the imposing limestone façades whose grand columns line Rue Saint-Jacques. In fact, you notice a bit of swagger in your own step. But before you leave the hotel, put on your Sunday best, because you’re off to church. And not just any church. The Notre-Dame Basilica (2), a ﬁve-block stroll from the hotel, rivals the great cathedrals of Europe. Established in 1829, the church was built by an Irish Protestant architect imported from New York. He converted to Catholicism on his deathbed, perhaps so that he could be buried in his creation. Montreal was once a very Catholic city— count the steeples dotting the skyline—with the clergy having as much inﬂuence as elected officials. Like hairstyles, hemlines and pop music, that all changed in the ’60s, when the Quiet Revolution led to the secularization of government and education.

The city abounds with examples of thoughtful urban planning, including underground shopping malls, for those cold winters, and lush parks in which to enjoy the summers. But visitors can still glimpse an earlier time, especially among the canals and warehouses lining the St. Lawrence River. Montreal is a city of distinct neighborhoods and ﬁercely proud character. There’s no better way to see it than strolling its narrow streets. You’ll uncover upscale boutiques and historic sites, often right next door to each other, and breathe in the heady aroma of french fries smothered in gravy and cheese curds, the ingredients of poutine, Montreal’s signature dish, which is served in even the swankiest joint. It may not sound so appealing, but it’s quite good. And yes, it will be on the test.

YOU MAY WANT TO PRACTICE YOUR FRENCH IN MONTREAL, the second-largest French-speaking city in the world, but don’t worry—it won’t be on the test. Most residents speak English. That’s the nature of this beguiling Quebecois city. It’s an anything-goes, old-meets-new kind of place. Modern glass skyscrapers edge up against 18th century Beaux Arts buildings, and the old town’s European grandeur is balanced out by funky new cafés, a thriving university scene and booming nightclubs in up-and-coming neighborhoods like Mile End and the Plateau.

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DAY TWO Now that you’ve gotten the lay of the land, it’s time to indulge in the city’s cultural offerings. Grab breakfast at Olive + Gourmando (1) then board the STM, Montreal’s efficient public system, at Victoria Square and ride three stops to the Canadian Centre for Architecture (2). This 30-year-old museum is housed in a 19th century graystone mansion straight out of a romantic novel, which has been expanded with surprisingly harmonious slick limestone façades. Its founder and consulting 72

From the church, walk toward Place Jacques-Cartier (3)—a pedestrian square that was once the entrance to the city’s port, now thick with street performers and souvenir shops—and wander the cobbled alleyways off Rue Saint-Paul. Amid 18th century stone buildings such as the Chateau Ramezay, a former governor’s mansion that now serves as a repository of Quebec history, you’ll find lofts for a growing creative class. Be sure to stop by the three-year-old DHC/ART Foundation of Contemporary Art (4). Local visionary Phoebe Greenberg has created a platform for Canadian and international talent to stage exhibitions, workshops and lectures. After you’ve had your fill of highbrow culture, relax at Cluny Artbar (5), a former warehouse that’s been converted into a café. Take a seat at one of the establishment’s communal tables and order yourself a smoked salmon panino and extra-leaded espresso. You’ll need the fuel for zipping around Montreal’s Old Port in some the city’s many bicycle lanes—just swipe your credit card at one of the 300 Bixi (think “bike” meets “taxi”) cycle-sharing kiosks all over town (open May through November). Wending your way along the Lachine Canal (6), lined with ferry terminals, quays and a huge concrete silo, you’ll get a glimpse of the city’s industrial past. Across the river, you spot Habitat 67. Designed for Expo 67, Montreal’s world’s fair, as a prototype for affordable housing, the structure looks like something dreamed up by Antoni Gaudí and built with Legos. You continue pedaling along the leafy Rue Notre-Dame and pass through Antiques Alley to Marché Atwater (7), a European-style foodmarket housed in an Art Deco building, complete with charcuteries, cheese shops and flower stalls. After a serious afternoon of bike riding and window shopping, you’ll want to sit down for a proper meal. Restaurateurs Frédéric Morin, Allison Cunningham and David McMillan have turned the neighborhood known as Little Burgundy into a culinary mecca. Settle on Joe Beef, the name of which belies the upscale fare inside, where you order such classics as Dungeness crab and seared scallops. The menu changes often, but the dishes are simple and bold, so the seafood flavors shine through. Before you call it a night, head to Altitude 737 (8). In a city known for megaclubs, this is the swankiest, an ideal place to hobnob with Montreal’s most glamorous residents, enjoy a champagne cocktail and take in views of the city.

RETRO CURRENT Habitat 67, top, and Grand Central antiques shop

MADNESSMIDCENTURY

3PD MONTREAL

// Indulge your vintage cravings. // The furniture stores on Amherst Street in the city’s Gay Village are a gold mine for midcentury ﬁnds. Start out at Jack’s, the biggest dealer on the stretch, where you can pick up pottery in neon colors, Danish credenzas and vintage rotary phones and television sets. Cité Deco stocks glamorous lucite desks and coffee tables, as well as whimsical pop art paintings. Montreal Moderne focuses on teak and rosewood pieces, including wall units and dining tables. The prices are reasonable, and the quality of the pieces runs from good to mint. And while an Arne Jacobsen egg chair might be too cumbersome to lug back in your suitcase, most of the store owners are ﬂexible with shipping fees. Just browsing? You might enjoy watching employees carefully restore the pieces’ original grandeur.

HERE’S THE BEEF Clockwise from top left, Schwartz’s deli and its legendary smoked meat sandwich, Daniel Roberge in Zephyr Art Gallery, and the view on Rue Notre-Dame

FRESH PAINT Museum of Fine Arts

After wandering the halls and taking in the archives of Ernest Cormier, the city’s preeminent architect of the early 20th century, enjoy a 10-minute stroll along Rue Sherbrooke, one of the city’s swankiest thoroughfares, which leads to The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (3), a neoclassical structure that sits regally among boutiques and blue-chip galleries. There are pieces by Rembrandt, Monet and Picasso within, but you’re more interested in the homegrown talent. The dark, moody portraits by Frederick Simpson Coburn (1871–1960), who grew up just south of the city, evoke the Dutch masters, while Quebecois painter Marc-Aurèle Fortin (1888–1970) created watercolor landscapes inspired by French Impressionism. Before you hop over to the modern annex across the street, take a whirl through the decorative arts section, which features an eclectic mix of furniture, textiles and other objects, from a Marius Plamondon stained-glass window to an amorphous fan, courtesy of Maarten Baas. Next, take a cab across town to explore the Plateau district (4). A working-class neighborhood in the ’60s and ’70s, the Plateau has become a magnet for creative types, who live and work alongside a mix of Italian, Portuguese and Greek communities. This is also the epicenter of Montreal’s Francophone population, particularly along the Rue Saint-Denis. The bustling street is crammed with shops, jazz clubs, cafés and friperies (vintage clothing stores carrying, among other things, an impressive stock of ’70s skiwear). You can only wander so long, though, before you work up an appetite.

L’Express (5) is a classic brasserie that feels as if it’s been airlifted from Paris; it’s outﬁtted with a gleaming zinc bar, bow-tied waiters and a black-and-white tiled ﬂoor.

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architect, Phyllis Lambert studied under Mies Van der Rohe and has made the center one of the country’s most important cultural institutions, with a vast archive of architectural sketches, photographs and models dating back the Renaissance.

CHOP SHOP // Pig out at one of Montreal’s hottest restaurants. // Au Pied de Cochon is a carnivore’s paradise. The restaurant, which opened on a side street in the Plateau district back in 2004, has lured meat lovers (including chef Anthony Bourdain) from around the globe for artery-clogging dishes such as pig trotter salad and steak tartare. Chef and owner Martin Picard has developed bad-boy status in the culinary world with his unshaven look and specialty,asonfor10outserene,burningdiningpersonality.larger-than-lifeThoughtheroom,withitswoodﬁreplace,isquitePicardispumpingsinfuldishesincludingdifferentpreparationsfoiegras—onhamburger,pizzaand,naturally,atoppingforthelocal poutine. If you can’t get enough of Picard’s gut-busting cuisine, head just north of the city, into the Laurentian Mountains, to his Cabane À Sucre (Sugar Shack), a cozy restaurant where the chef dishes up everything from buckwheat pancakes to fried lobster during the maple syrup–tapping season, typically mid-March to mid-April.

The food is sturdy bistro fare—croque monsieur, steak frites—but the real draw is jumbo cornichons and grainy mustard that come with every order. After an espresso, detour off Rue Saint-Denis and wander through some of the residential neighborhoods lined with Victorian row houses, many featuring mansard roofs and the peculiar spiral exterior staircases unique to Montreal (evidently, recently arrived immigrants wanted front doors to call their own, even if they were in secondﬂoorInvigoratedapartments).bythe walk, you’re ready to see another side of the city’s nightlife. You

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ADAM GOLLNER, AUTHOR OF THE FRUIT HUNTERS In the Plateau and Mile End, there are alleys bursting with fruit trees and stands selling reproductions of Goya prints. Those alleys are reminders that revelations lurk all around.

BOARDING PASS Montreal just has that certain je ne sais quoi, non? United can get you there from dozens of cities across the U.S. andthearoundglobe.

duck into Casa del Popolo (6), an unassuming vegetarian restaurant that doubles as a stage for the area’s promising young musical talent, and order a pint of Belle Gueule ale, one of the strong local brews. You may also want to check out La Sala Rossa, Casa’s sister joint across the street. Started as a cultural center by the city’s left-wing Jewish community back in the ’30s, La Sala Rossa hosts acts ranging from ﬂamenco performers to freestyle breakdancers. Given the strong beer, a midnight snack seems prudent. For an inexpensive serving of poutine, you walk 15 minutes to Resto la Banquise (7), a 24-hour diner. Meanwhile, die-hard carnivores will line up at Schwartz’s on Rue Saint-Laurent, an old-style Jewish deli with heaping portions of viande fumée, a.k.a. “smoked meat” (just don’t call it pastrami).

FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED.COM

DAY THREE You had a late night, so you sleep in—but not so much that you miss out on a stroll through the Mile End neighborhood (1), the latest bastion of bohemia to sprout up in this fast-evolving city. Here you’ll ﬁnd Commissaires, a gallery-boutique hybrid featuring limited-edition designs by local artists as well as themed exhibitions. In a tiny new bookshop, Drawn & Quarterly (2), the retail outlet of the inﬂuential comic book and graphic novel publisher, you can easily spend several hours perusing everything from the latest Masterpiece Comics to a variety of art zines. Pick up an armful of reading material and head to one of the numerous independent coffee shops in the area. Café Olympico (3) brews high-grade espresso for Italian old-timers and twentysomethings alike, who jostle for elbow room at the bar. Try to score one of the nicked wooden tables and settle in with your latte and The Walrus, Canada’s answer to The Atlantic. Next on the agenda is sampling a legendary Montreal bagel, a species of bagel that polarizes connoisseurs (they’re sweeter, chewier and less doughy than their New York counterparts). Though locals will go on about the differences at the nearby joints, St-Viateur and Fairmount, both of these holes in the wall churn them out piping hot. Why not try both?

ALEXEI PERRY VOCALIST, HANDSOME FURS // Niu Kee is a Szechuan restaurant that plays Beijing opera and ﬁlls nearby blocks with the fragrance of “ﬂower” pepper.

Walk it all off with a sunset tour of Parc du Mont-Royal (4), the city’s main park, which was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, the architect of New York’s Central Park. At this time of year, you’ll see lots of cross-country skiers, while in the spring and summer, joggers and bikers predominate. After you huff and puff to the top of “la montagne,” as Montrealers call it (although to be honest, it’s not much more than a hill), you look down at all the charming rues and alleyways you’ve meandered for the past few days. It’s a beautiful sight in any language.

THE RIVER WILD A surfer on the St. Lawrence, below, and Les Commissaires

New Yorker MAURA EGAN thinks Montreal bagels are some of the best in the world.

STANKIEWICZSTEVEBYILLUTRATIONSMAP 77 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBRUARY 2010 THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS 3PD MONTREAL DAY ONE (1) Hotel Le St-James 355 Rue Saint-Jacques.; Tel: 514-841-3111 (2) Notre-Dame Basilica 110 Rue Notre-Dame Ouest; Tel: 514-842-2925 (3) Place Jacques-Cartier Near Place Jacques-Cartier on Rue de la Commune (4) DHC/Art Foundation for Contemporary Art 451-468 Rue Saint-Jean; Tel: 514-849-3742 (5) Cluny Artbar 257 Rue Prince; Tel: 514-866-1213 (6) Lachine Canal (7) Marché Atwater 138 Ave. Atwater; Tel: 514-937-7754 (8) Altitude 737 1 Place Ville-Marie; Tel: 514-397-0737 DAY TWO (1) Olive + Gourmando 351 Rue Saint-Paul Ouest; Tel: 514-650-1083 (2) Canadian Centre for Architecture 1920 Rue Baile; Tel: 514-939-7026 (3) The Montreal Museum of Fine Arts 1380 Rue Sherbrooke Ouest; Tel: 514-285-2000 (4) Plateau district Rue Saint-Denis (5) L’Express 3927 Rue Staint-Denis; Tel: 514-845-5333 (6) Casa del Popolo 4873 Boul. Saint-Laurent; Tel: 514-284-3804 (7) Resto la Banquise 994 Rue Rachel East; Tel: 514-525-2415 DAY THREE (1) Mile End neighborhood Boul. Saint-Laurent at Ave du Mont-Royal (2) Drawn & Quarterly 211 Rue Bernard Ouest (3) Café Olympico 124 Rue Saint-Viateur Ouest (4) Parc du Mont Royal 7 6 8 MONTREALNEWYORK0 5 Miles AutorouteBonaventure PortVictoria AvenueAvenueDuParcRueSt.-DenisRueSherbrookeO.BoulevardRene-AutorouteVille-MarieDuMont-RoyalE. RiverLawrenceSt. IleHeleneSainte 4 2 1 3 4 7 5 23 6 5 1 24 3 1

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79HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBR UARY 2010 com com 8 days Grand Canyon, Zion 8 days Yellowstone, Rushmore 8 days California with Yosemite 8 days Fall Foliage 9 days Canadian Rockies 8 days Nova Scotia and P.E.I. 10 days *Costa Rica 9 days *Mexico Ancient Civ. 9 days *Mexico Copper Canyon 11 days *Guatemala 9 days *Panama with Cruise Priced from $995 to $1195. Caravan’s escorted tours include hotels, guides, activities and ground transportation. Taxes and fees extra. USA and Canada tours include about half of the meals. Call 1-800-CARAVAN Free 28 page Info Guide. Fully Escorted Tours Since 1952 Fully Escorted Tours Since 1952 The Best Value in Travel The Best Value in Travel com com com Costa Rica 10 Days $995 Rainforests, Volcanoes, Beaches. All inclusive with meals. Updated with new resort and spa. Panama 9 Days $995 With canal cruise, guaranteed in daytime. All inclusive with meals. Complete land tour of Panama. Copper Canyon Train 9 Days Roundtrip from Phoenix. All inclusive with all meals. Priced from $995 to Caravan$1195.offers tours to Panama, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Mexico, United States and Canada. All priced from $995 to $1195. Join the experienced travelers and smart shoppers who rely on Caravan to handle all the details. Call 1-800-CARAVAN today. *Latin America include all meals. carte musées montréal museums pass 35 Museums » 3 Days (with or without public transit) Buy online at www.montrealmuseums.org or in museums, in Tourism Information Centers, at La vitrine, in participating hotels. montreal city of glass Please call our sales team at (888) 864-1733 To advertise HEMISPHERESin

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WE KNOW YOU TRAVEL. A lot. You’re a pro at ﬂying in for the day to meet potential clients or investors. You have it down to a science, packing for any kind of weather, and working on your laptop. But it could always be easier. What if you could get Wi-Fi from anywhere inside the airport? Or if you had somewhere to store your coffee so that you wouldn’t have to put down your smart phone? Or if your carry-on bag and wallet had those little extra touches that showed they were specially designed for you, the business traveler? You wouldn’t trade your job—or the jetsetting lifestyle it enables—for the world, and we understand that. But we wanted to provide you some information about the gear and gadgets that will make it that much easier and more enjoyable to ﬂy in and make the deal. So go get ’em.

The Little Things Products that make business travel even easier HEMISPHERES

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IN THE BAG

As a frequent traveler, you take pride in expertly packing your carry-on so that everything you need is within reach during your ﬂight. You place your valuables securely deep inside and make sure you have easy access to the things you’ll want right away—or those that you’ll need to take out at security checkpoints. What if you had a bag that did the strategizing for you, though? You have more important strategies to Ellingtondevelop… handbags’ versatile tote products

One of the challenges of traveling is worrying about what’s going on in the office in your absence. You don’t want to be calling your team all the time, acting like an overprotective parent, but staying in touch by email from a smart phone has it’s own set of challenges—for one, you can’t access all your files. If only there were a way to increase the area in which you had Wi-Fi connectivity on yourYoulaptop…need to stay productive! You need Wi-Fire! When you travel, getting online wirelessly isn’t optional; it’s mission critical. Smart phones are great but sometimes you need more bandwidth and your laptop’s power. One traveler says it all: “The Wi-Fire is ideal for people who travel and are trying to pick-up WiFi signals outside the normal home or office environment.” Easy set up, plug it in, and connect to WiFi networks as far away as 1,000 feet, three times the typical Wi-Fi distance. $59 at hfield.com GOING, GOING… One constant—maybe the only one—in your hectic life of travel is coffee. At the hotel in the morning, in the airport before you board your flight, you can be seen balancing suitcase, phone, ticket and laptop just to avoid spilling a precious drop. When you’re on the go, so is your coffee. But who hasn’t needed a third hand on a harried journey through the airport? The tugo™ provides just that. It holds any size coffee or a small or medium soft drink between the upright handles of your rolling luggage. It easily attaches, removes and stows in your bag. For corporate gifts or promotions, tugo™ can be printed with your company logo. Made in USA. See it in action at goodtugo.com

We hate to dwell on the negative, but we must address another challenge for business travelers—balancing form and function. When if comes to your wallet, where you store your most valuable possessions, sure you want it to look nice, but you want it to fit easily into your pocket and secure your belongings, too. If you’re a man, you may find yourself wishing you had an ultra-slim wallet with no metal, so it can remain in your pocket as you pass security checkpoints. And for the ladies, it would be nice to have a cell phone wallet that fits your iPhone and yourWalletBeBlackBerry.designs and manufactures wallets that solve the inconveniences of every day life. WalletBe gives you designer quality at a value price. WalletBe Men’s Wallets are made of Italian flat or croco-embossed leather. They are thin and flat for a perfect front pocket fit, and durable enough to outlast even highend designer wallet brands. WalletBe Women’s Wallets are constructed with 100 percent Italian leather or soft and durable microfiber. With features such as an accordion-style opening for maximum credit card visibility and convenience, and detachable wrist and shoulder straps, WalletBe has something for everyone. Visit walletbe.com and enter the code, “UNITED” at checkout and receive 10 percent off your order.

SCREEN SAVER Sometimes you use your time inflight to work on proposals or financial documents—important, confidential stuff. Other times, you just want to browse through photos of your kid’s soccer game and your puppy—just as important, if not somewhat less confidential. Whatever you’ve got on screen, though, you may not want to share it with a nosy neighbor. Whether you’re flying between cities or across continents, air travel has become a great time to catch up on emails or paperwork, or to simply watch a movie. But powering up your laptop means you’re opening your digital life to everyone around you.

3M™ Privacy Filters keep your on-screen data private by creating a 30-degree cone of vision, so data is visible only to those directly in front of your laptop screen—without blurring or Anddistortion.now,there’s a bold new way to add privacy and personality to your laptop screen. 3M™ GOLD Privacy Filters offer unmatched data protection and a gloss surface that actually increases screen clarity. Your vibrant golden screen will dazzle onlookers while defending your data. To learn more, visit 3MPrivacyFilters.com 3mprivacyﬁlters.comwalletbe.com

IN THE FOLD

HEMISPHERES is sure to become your everyday go-to bag, whether you’re running errands around town or traveling around the world. With soft yet durable nylon, sleek exterior styling and smart interior organization (including hidden pockets and a plastic cosmetics pouch), the Lucia In-Flight Tote stands out from the typical carry-on crowd. The roomy interior and many pockets make it an excellent diaper bag, too! Visit us online at ellingtonhandbags.com

A seat map diagram of a United A320 showing Economy Plus seating near the front of the Economy cabin.

Economy EconomyEconomyPlus You can even save $50 on a subscription through a special Hemispheres reader discount. Just visit united.com/epaspecial and use promo code “legroom” when making a purchase by March 1, 2010.*

united.com/travelVisitoptionsFirstClassPlusEconomy Economy A side-by-side comparison of a standard Economy seat and an Economy Plus seat.

At just $425 per subscription, the Economy Plus annual option can pay for itself in just a few ﬂights. It may be purchased only at united.com/traveloptions, where you can also purchase the subscription as a bundle with a Red Carpet Club membership, with Premier Fast Track, or as a gift. No other airline offers economy legroom comparable with Economy Plus. And now, you can enjoy a full 12 months of 5 inches of extra space.

Purchase a whole year’s worth of extra room and comfort. Imagine knowing you’ll enjoy up to 5 inches of extra legroom every time you fly for the next year. If you’ve flown in United’s Economy Plus seating area, you know what a big deal a little extra space can be. More room to stretch out and relax (nap, anyone?). More room to open your newspaper. More room to open your laptop. Well, with the Economy Plus annual option, you can enjoy that extra room for an entire year. The subscription also allows Economy Plus access for one additional travelling companion on any joint Economyitinerary.Plusseating is available on all domestic and international United flights, as well as explusSM flights from United Express.®

travel options by united HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBRUARY 2010

*Discount code valid for purchase 1/27/10–3/1/10. Offer subject to change without notice. Other restrictions may apply.

Economy Plus® Annual Option

ACBDEF

FEBRUARY 2010 PLAY Let the wild rumpus begin with Where the Wild Things Are ENTERTAINMENT 88 Films & Television 95 Audio Programming 110 Crossword 112 Sudoku & Quiz INFORMATION 98 United Destinations 102 Terminal Diagrams 107 Alliances & Partnerships 108 Customs & Immigration 115 Beverages & Food

are

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flights

Raging Planet

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The Ofﬁce [T] Man V. FriendsFood[T] FEBRUARY

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and you’ll get answers such as laptops or neck pillows. Add

Max

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[T] FEBRUARY 16-28 Frasier [T] Royal Pains [T] The Office [T] FEBRUARY 1-15 Whip It! FEBR UARY 16-28 The Boys Are Back [T] FEBRUARY 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] The Good Wife [T] Cake Boss 30 Rock [T] FEBRUARY 16-28 Samantha Brown’s Great Weekends Brothers and Sisters [T] The Simpsons [T] Arrested Development [T] &MEXICOHAWAIIAMERICANORTHCARIBBEAN FEBRUARY 1-15 Whip It! FEBRUARY 16-28 The Boys Are Back [T] FEBRUARY 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] Top Chef Masters Where The Wild Things Are TV Special The Simpsons [T] FEBRUARY 16-28 The Office [T] Man V. FriendsFood[T] &FILMTELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10. FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONSOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND EASTBOUND WESTBOUND SECRET TEARS ASK PEOPLE

FEBRUARY

The Middle

FEBRUARY 1-15 and a Half Men [T] [T] 16-28 Rock [T] The Middle [T] The Wife [T] 1-15 The Invention of Lying 16-28 Where the Wild Things Are 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] [T][V] The Middle [T] Office what they can’t fly without, to the because most of find catharsis crying while watching inflight We weepers start out strong, tuning in to the latest Clive Owen flick or Spike Jonze’s fantastical adaptation. Sure, Owen plays a widower who rebuilds his in The Are Back, but it’s only a film. Yes, and his mother share an understated, affectionate reunion The but can handle it. Travel blogger Amanda Pressner of “The Lost Girls” says that tears just part of the one she wouldn’t wouldn’t

FEBRUARY

Chuck

TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION

Top Chef Masters

Two

FEBRUARY 1-15 The Invention of Lying 16-28 Where the Wild Things Are 1-15 30 Rock [T] [T] [T] 16-28 and a 1-15 16-28 Big Bang [T] Where The Wild Things Are TV Special The Simpsons [T] 1-15 Where the Wild Things Are FEBRUARY 16-28 The Invention of Lying Both films available on between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

family

either.—Patrick Huguenin

Theory

travel experience, and

The

Good

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Cake Boss FEBRUARY

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Wild Things Are,

Half Men [T] Raging Planet [T] Cake Boss FEBR UARY 1-15 The Boys Are Back [T] FEBRUARY 16-28 Whip It! Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii FEBRUARY

Boys

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list tissues,

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THE BOYS ARE BACK [T]

1 hr. 46 min.

FEATURING Clive Owen, Laura Fraser, George MacKay DIRECTED BY Scott Hicks

FEATURING Ricky Gervais, Jennifer Garner, Jonah Hill DIRECTED BY Ricky Gervais, Matthew Robinson

An adaptation of Maurice Sendak’s classic children’s story, in which Max, a disobedient little boy sent to bed without his supper, creates his own world—a forest inhabited by ferocious wild creatures that crown Max as their ruler.

1 hr. 41 min. 1 hr. 38 min.

1 hr. 44 min.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

FEATURING Catherine Keener, Max Records, Mark Ruffalo DIRECTED BY Spike Jonze

THE INVENTION OF LYING

89HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBR UARY 2010

WHIP IT!

DIRECTED BY Drew Barrymore

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE “Jonze has ﬁlmed a fantasy as if it were absolutely real, allowing us to see the world as Max sees it, full of beauty and terror. The brilliant songs, by Karen O (of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs) and the Kids, enhance the ﬁlm’s power.” —Rolling Stone

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm.

“Few films have so poignantly portrayed a father’s relationships with his sons as The Boys Are Back .” —The Hollywood Reporter Sweet serendipity. This film follows a wisecracking sportswriter who, in the wake of his wife’s tragic death, finds himself a single parent. Raising two boys in a household devoid of feminine influence, and with an unabashed lack of rules, life becomes exuberant and reckless.

“However cheeky and blasphemous, this is, at heart, a rather sweet little fable. Which of course would mean nothing if it weren’t explosively funny.” New York Magazine Truth story. The Invention of Lying takes place in a world in which lying—even the concept of a lie—does not exist. But when Mark Bellison suddenly develops the ability to lie, he ﬁnds that dishonesty has its rewards. He lies his way to fame and fortune, but still can’t get the woman he loves.

FEATURING Ellen Page, Jimmy Fallon, Daniel Stern

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

“Sweet without being sticky and funny without getting silly, Whip It! introduces Barrymore as a director with a keen eye, a good ear for tone and an inspired touch with actors.”—New York Post Girl power. Whip It! , the directorial debut of Drew Barrymore, stars Ellen Page as Bliss, a rebellious Texas teen who throws in her small town beauty pageant crown for the rowdy world of roller derby. Marcia Gay Harden plays Bliss’ disapproving mother, while Kristen Wiig and Juliette Lewis play roller-derby stars.

FRIENDS Take a trip back to the early aughts—remember how well “The Rachel” haircut framed her face? We’ve brought back the sitcom that deﬁned a generation. This episode serves up some good old Ross and Rachel tension when the latter’s sister shows up and dates the former.

CAKE BOSS Join Buddy Valastro and his family at Carlo’s Bakery. They’re surrounded by even more sweet temptation than usual when they’re asked to make a cake for Dylan’s Candy Bar. The sisters are tempted to hire an assistant for Buddy. Cousin Anthony learns a thing or two about how dangerous delivery can be.

LIVE LAUGH LEARN

It’s not easy to capture the force of an avalanche without getting swept up. But through breathtaking aerial shots, and reinforced cameras placed directly in the path of descending snow, you’ll be able to witness the devastating power of these natural disasters.

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE TV SPECIAL Peak behind the movie magic of runaway hit Where the Wild Things Are . The stunning use of animation, combined with people in elaborate costumes, let young Max, played by Max Records, really interact with his imaginary characters. It all looks seemless on-screen, so you’ll be amazed to ﬁnd out what went in to making this fantastical ﬁlm. PLAY you to shed few tears, but we’re HAVE A BAWL IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

GET IN TOUCH

Top Chef Masters flips the judges’ table to find out which superstar hash-slingers can handle the heat. Twenty-four world-renowned chefs are pitted against each other to win $100,000 for charity. They are faced with a Quickfire Challenge—using ingredients that aren’t exactly gourmet quality.

TOP CHEF MASTERS

Like to plan ahead and know what’s playing before your flight? Text “MOVIE” to 75309 and you’ll get a reply with the current movies that are playing. If you really like to plan ahead, text “NEXT MOVIE” for next month’s movies. What do you think of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com.

&FILMTELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

THE MIDDLE Meet TV’s newest lovably dysfunctional family headed by Frankie, the third-best used car salesman (out of the three) at the local dealership, and her wisecracking husband, Mike. There’s Axl, her seminudist teenage son; Sue, the awkward teen who fails at everything—with gusto; and seven-year-old son Brick, whose best friend is his backpack. .

RAGING PLANET

The Invention of Lying (G) Where the Wild Things Are (G) My One and Only (G) The Informant! (G) Chuck [T] Cake Boss Two and a Half Men [T] Whip It (G) The Boys Are Back [T] (G) Love Happens (G) Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs (G) The Mentalist [T] The Office (U.K.) [T] Parks and Recreation [T] 30 R ock [T]

EASTBOUND WESTBOUND

AUSTRALIAGERMANY

The Invention of Lying (J)(C) Where the Wild Things Are (J)(C) My One and Only (C) The Informant! (J)(C) Whip It (J)(C) The Boys Are Back [T] (J)(C) Love Happens (J)(C)

*Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs (J)(C) *East Coast/ORD only Whip It (J)(C) The Boys Are Back [T] (J)(C) Love Happens (J)(C) Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs (J)(C) Star Trek [V] (J)(C)The Real (J) / HARDtalk (J) Peschardt’s People (J) / Fast Track (J) Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City

The Invention of Lying (G) Where the Wild Things Are (G) My One and Only (G) *The Informant! (G) *West Coast only

The Mentalist [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] 30 Rock [T]

NCIS: L os Angeles [T][V] House [T] The Middle [T] Whip It (G) The Boys Are Back [T] (G) Love Happens (G) *Cloudy With a Chance of Meatballs (G) *West Coast only

&FILMTELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) トラック言語本の長編映画をチャンネル2と747-400航空機上の他の飛行機内でのチャネル10で選択されています (C) 在747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道 FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMFILMTELEVISIONTELEVISION If your aircraft is equipped with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket. CHINAJAPAN & HONG THAILANDJAPAN–HONGVIETNAM–HONGSINGAPORE–KONGKONGKONG The Invention of Lying (J)(C) Where the Wild Things Are (J)(C) My One and Only (C) *The Informant! (J)(C) *East Coast/ORD only Brothers and Sisters [T] (J) Frasier [T] (J) House [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] (C) Frasier [T] (C) House [T] (C) Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince [V] (J)(C) Brothers and Sisters [T] (C) Royal Pains [T] (C) Frasier [T] (C) Brothers and Sisters [T] (C) / Royal Pains [T] (C) Frasier [T] (C) Extreme Loggers (C) Out of the Wild: The Alask a Experiment (C) Some Assembly Required (C) The R eal (J) / HARDtalk (J) Peschardt’s People (J) Fast Track (J) Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince [V] (J)(C) The Informant! (J)(C) The Real (J) HARDtalk (J) Peschardt’s People (J) Fast Track (J) Ho Chi Minh City to Hong Kong Star Trek [V] (J)(C) Cloudy With a Chance o f Meatballs (J)(C) Brothers and Sisters [T] (C) Royal Pains [T] (C) Frasier [T] (C) The Real (J) HARDtalk (J) Peschardt’s People (J) Fast Track

1 hr. 49 min.

CLOUDY WITH A CHANCE OF MEATBALLS

Inspired by Ron and Judi Barrett’s children’s book of the same name, Cloudy with a Chance of Meatballs follows inventor Flint and a weather girl as they try to ﬁgure out why food is falling instead of rain in their town. Meanwhile, the mayor schemes to use Flint’s latest invention for his own personal gain.

VOICES BY Bill Hader, Anna Faris, James Caan DIRECTED BY Phil Lord, Chris Miller

1 hr. 29 min.

The story chronicles the early days of James T. Kirk and his fellow USS Enterprise crew members during their time at Star Fleet Academy, with adventures stretching from earth to Vulcan. Spock is still logical and Scotty still complains bitterly about the ship’s overworked engines. Kirk and Spock are brought center stage as the film tracks the origins of their friendship and how they became officers aboard the Enterprise

FEATURING Daniel Radcliffe, Rupert Grint, Emma Watson

FEATURING Aaron Eckhart, Jennifer Aniston, Dan Fogler DIRECTED BY Brandon Camp 1 hr. 26 min.

FEATURING Chris Pine, Zachary Quinto, Zoe Saldana DIRECTED BY J.J. Abrams

FEATURING Renée Zellweger, Logan Lerman, Kevin Bacon DIRECTED BY Richard Loncraine

United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following policy in regard to the use of personal audio and video equipment onboard its aircraft. This policy is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations.

DIRECTED BY Steven Soderbergh LOVE HAPPENS A widower writes a book about how to cope with the death of a loved one, which makes him an overnight self-help guru. But he still can’t deal with the loss of his own wife. After meeting a freewheeling woman at one of his seminars, she teaches him how to truly move on.

MY ANDONEONLY

HARRY POTTER AND THE HALF-BLOOD PRINCE [V]

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

UAL CORPORATION ONBOARD PHOTOGRAPHY AND VIDEO POLICY

My One and Only is inspired by incidents in the life of Hollywood icon George Hamilton and told from the perspective of him as a witty young man. Ann Devereaux leaves her philandering husband and hits the road with her teenage sons to ﬁnd a wealthy replacement mate.

2 hrs. 27 min.

Based on the true story of Mark Whitacre, a rising corporate star at Archer Daniels Midland (ADM) in the early ’90s who secretly gathered hundreds of hours of tapes over several years to present to the FBI in what became one of the largest price ﬁxing cases in history.

As Harry Potter begins his sixth year at Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry, he discovers an old book marked mysteriously “This book is the property of the Half-Blood Prince” and begins to learn more about Lord Voldemort’s dark past.

DIRECTED BY David Yates

FEATURING Matt Damon, Scott Bakula, Joel McHale

STAR TREK [V]

2 hrs. 7 min.

THE INFORMANT!

Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, film or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio, or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio, or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment, or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video, or other photography (motion or still), recording, or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent specifically permitted by United Airlines (October 2009). Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different line up before and after the start of each month.

93HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBR UARY 2010

1 hr. 48 min.

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inflight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM. 95HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBR UARY 2010 CH. *Live communication between the flight deck and FAA air-traffic control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its flight number. This feature is unique to United and may not be available on all flights. Available at your captain’s discretion. 777 2-CABIN A319 & A320 SELECT A320 747757 & 767 2-CABIN 737 17161512111054321687913141819 MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE English From the Flight Deck Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary HitsAdult Contemporary Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Top 20 Hits MOVIE English MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz Top 20 Hits Unavailable From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits MOVIE English Top 20 Hits From the Flight Deck New Age New Age Classic Rock Classic Rock New Alternative ’70s Hits ’70s Hits ’70s Hits’70s Hits ’70s Hits ’70s Hits Children’s Programming Children’s Programming MOVIE English Top 20 Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits From the Flight Deck ’60s Hits ’60s Hits ’60s Hits’60s Hits’60s Hits ’60s Hits MOVIE English Unavailable Unavailable Unavailable Top 20 Hits Top 20 Hits Blues Classical Pops From the Flight Deck ’80s Hits ’80s Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits Adult Album Rock Adult Album Rock Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Classic Soul Today’s R&B Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits New Country Hits Children’s Programming New Country Hits

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inﬂight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on page 95 and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Weezer, The Raconteurs, The Bravery, Foo Fighters, Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy Eat World ADULT ALBUM ROCK New music and classic tracks from artists who’ve stood the test of time, plus quality rock from credible new artists.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR James Brown, The Four Tops, Aretha Franklin, The Supremes

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Enya, Brian Eno, Tangerine Dr eam, Kevin Braheny, Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani

WHO YOU’LL HEAR U2, Dave Matthews Band, Neil Young, Coldplay SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors plays the best contemporary jazz instrumentals, classic and new, blended with just the right vocals. It’s contemporary crossover that’s always cool.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George Benson, Sade, George Duke BLUES From the Delta, Chicago, New Orleans and more, B.B. King’s Bluesville covers more than 80 years of authentic blues.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta James, Muddy Waters TOP 20 HITS Top 20 on 20 plays just the songs you vote for. Cast your vote anytime at xmradio.com20on20.; then plug in and hear what’s hot.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Rod Stewart, Billy Joel, Madonna, Eric Clapton TODAY’S R&B HITS R&B Hits from the ‘80s, ‘90s and today. Sounds that reach your Heart & Soul.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Mary J. Blige, Alicia Keys, Charlie Wilson, Jill Scott, Maxwell ’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you back to the days of bell bottoms and pet rocks, when the music was wider than rocksinger-songwritersever—fromandclassictoR&Banddisco. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Elton John, Donna Summer, The Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac CLASSIC ROCK Hold your ligh ters in the air. It’s all classic rock of the ’60s and ’70s, when music came on LPs. Drop the needle on Classic Vinyl. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Creedence Clearwater R evival, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad Company, Rolling Stones

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING Kids Place Live recordingplusmoviemixcontentaward-winningfeaturesoriginalblendedwithamusicofthemostpopularkids’andTVsoundtracks,Children’sProgramming’sartists.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Michael Jackson, Dur an Duran, Cyndi Lauper, Prince, George Michael

MODERN ADULT HITS It’ s the ’90s and now! Hear today’s pop hits from artists like Matchbox 20, Alanis Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly Clarkson and the Dave Matthews Band. Feel the Pulse of adult pop!

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan Zanes, They Might Be Giants ’60S HITS The times they were a-changin’, and so was the music. ’60s on 6 revisits the British invasion and Woodstock with DJ Cousin Brucie. WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Beatles, Beach Boys, Bob Dylan ’80S HITS “Totally awesome” ’80s on 8 sounds like one of the great Top 40 stations of the time, with rock, rhythm and pop—plus hair bands and the original MTV VJs.

The lat est alternative rock, best of the ’90s and the next big thing before it becomes so big you can’t stand it.

NEW ALTERNATIVE

CLASSICAL POPS Lis ten to classical music’s greatest hits and famous movie music, performed by renowned orchestras and soloists, on SIRIUS XM Pops. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Boston Pops, Cincinnati P ops, Andrea Bocelli, James Galway, Joshua Bell, John Philip Sousa

CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is a celebration of the Motown, Stax and Atlantic record labels—vintage soul and classic R&B from the 1960s and ’70s.

NEW COUNTRY HITS The Highway plays the very latest New Country, along with the biggest hits of the past few years.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Kenny Chesney, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts, Sugarland, Tim McGraw

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO CHANNELS & ARTISTS

NEW AGE Spa is a plac e of peace in a sometimes crazy world. It’s a beautiful place where you are soothed by dreamy, ﬂowing music.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Justin Timberlake, Fergie, Daughtry, Kanye West ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS The Blend is the soundtrack of your life—a great mix of Lite pop hits from the ’70s through today; never any rap or rock.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Daughtry, No Doubt, Colbie Caillat, Plain Whit e T’s

Get commercial-free music, live sports, news and exclusive entertainment through your existing vehicle radio with easy Do-It-Yourself installation. MUSIC · SPORTS · TALK · NEWS · ENTERTAINMENT EVERYTHING WORTH LISTENING TO IS ON *OFFER DETAILS: To qualify for Mileage Plus rewards on eligible radios, you must buy a prepaid recurring minimum Quarterly subscription plan to any XM Package (excluding A La Carte, Mostly Music, and News, Talk & Sports), together with the eligible radio by 3/31/10. You must activate your XM subscription on that radio no later than 3/31/10 with a valid credit card; pay an activation fee of $14.99 and any other fees and taxes that will apply to your subscription, maintain at least 12 months of continuous service, and retain that credit card on the account for automatic recurring service billing. Failure to maintain 12 months of continuous “minimum service commitment” for each radio will result in a $75 early cancellation fee per radio. Service will automatically renew for additional periods of the same length as the Plan you choose, at the then current renewal rate unless you cancel. Hardware sold separately. This offer may be modiﬁed or terminated at any time. Pricing, programming, schedule, and channel assignments are subject to change. Check xmradio.com for the latest updates. Subscriptions are governed by the XM Customer Agreement available at xmradio.com. XM Radio U.S. service available only in the 48 contiguous United States, and D.C., to those at least 18 years of age. © 2009 SIRIUS XM Radio Inc. SIRIUS, XM and all related marks and logos are trademarks of SIRIUS XM Radio Inc. and its subsidiaries. Apple, iPhone, iPod and iPod touch are registered trademarks of Apple Inc. All other marks, channel names and logos are the property of their respective owners. All rights reserved. 29190 United passengers can enjoy all of our exclusive entertainment anywhere and earn 4,000 bonus United Mileage Plus miles.* Visit www.xmradio.com/ua for full details. EARN 4,000 MILES

Portland Vancouver Seattle Boise San Jose Las Vegas LOS ANGELES San Diego SAN FRANCISCO Oakland DENVER Sacramento Salt Lake Phoenix/ScottsdaleTucsonCity Albuquerque Colorado Springs HoustonSan Antonio KansasWorthFortDallas/CityOmahaOklahomaAustinCity Bozeman Orange County Tulsa El Paso Honolulu Ontario Kahului MoinesMinneapolisDesSpringfield Spokane WichitaLincoln Missoula Rapid City Reno/Tahoe CalgaryEdmonton Winnipeg Jackson Hole Kona 050100150Miles 050100150200Kilometers Burbank MontroseSpringsSteamboatHayden/ButteCrestedGunnison/Vail/Eagle Fargo Gillette Rock Springs CrescentEurekaCity AspenCarlsbadBakersfieldChico YellowstoneCody/ CasperFresnoEugene FallsSioux JunctionGrand Medford Pasco Palm Springs Santa Barbara InyokernImperial Monterey Oxnard San Luis SantaObispoMaria Yuma Modesto Redmond Redding Bismarck ArkansasNorthwest Great Falls Idaho Falls KalispellAnchorage Puerto Vallarta Los Cabos Mexico City Billings Victoria Helena FallsKlamath North Bend Saskatoon LakeMoses ReginaMidland/OdessaDurango HarlingenBrownsvilleCorpusChristiMcAllenLaredo Kingman Pierre ScottsbluffChadronAllianceLiberal Kearney Laramie Huron McCookDodgeCityGreat BendGarden City Hays Salina Manhattan Alamosa PuebloFarmingtonCortezTellurideLakePage/Powell Show Low Prescott Moab WorlandSheridan DickinsonMiles SidneyCityWillistonWolfGlasgowPoint Lewistown MercedVisalia Hilo Kapalua IslandGrand Vernal North Platte Cheyenne Riverton ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES United/United Express Route Cities served by United and United Express Cities served by Star Alliance or partner Code Share UNITED HUB Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

SpartanburgGreenville/WestOrlandoMiamiPalmBeachCharlestonSavannah Baltimore LouisvilleBirminghamMemphisMilwaukee Philadelphia St. Louis Tampa/St. Petersburg ClevelandCharlotte Detroit Jacksonville OrleansNew New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Norfolk/VirginiaKennedy)Beach Toronto Albany Atlanta Boston ColumbusColumbiaNashville RichmondRaleigh/Durham WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) SpringfieldHartford/ Cincinnati ProvidencePortland Newark Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem LexingtonGrandRapids Ft.SyracuseLauderdale/HollywoodBuffalo/NiagaraFalls Knoxville Manchester Ft. Myers Indianapolis inneapolis Dayton HarrisburgAllentown Madison Pittsburgh FoxAppleton/Cities Burlington IowaRapids/CedarCity Wausau WayneFt. Green Bay PlainsWhite LansingMidland/Saginaw Moline Rochester MishawakaBend/Elkhart/South pringfield Charleston Traverse CityAkron/Canton CollegeStateWilkesScrantonBarre/Charlottesville Roanoke Springfield (Reagan National) San Juan Peoria AshevilleAugusta Halifax Ottawa Pensacola Tallahassee Myrtle Fayetteville/Ft.Beach Bragg GainesvilleHilton Head Island DecaturHuntsville/ JacksonvilleCorningIthaca/ Long Island/Islip New Bern Tri-Cities Regional BinghamtonWilmington 0100200300400Miles 0100200300400500600Kilometers Newport News/Williamsburg Greenvillekansasrthwest RockLittle Antigua Punta Cana St. Kitts Providenciales St. Lucia Cozumel Santo Domingo St. Thomas St. Maarten Montego Bay Altoona ParkersburgBeckleyJohnstownShenandoahValleyClarksburgMorgantown FreeportNassau Grand Cayman Hamilton London Duluth Chattanooga BiloxiGulfport/ Huntington New Haven Williamsport City JacksonMobileMontgomery NewburghSalisbury Ft. BeachWalton Florence PaducahMuskegon RougeBaton North Eleuthera Key West BurlingtonWaynesville 99HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBR UARY 2010

Sydney Brisbane CairnsPerthShanghaiBeijing San FranciscoFuzhouShenyangChengduChongqingGuangzhouShenzhen Los Angeles Queenstown Wellington Seattle Rarotonga Cook OsakaTokyoSendaiNagoyaHiroshima Okinawa Seoul Sapporo Fukuoka Hong Kong Delhi Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Auckland Melbourne DunedinChristchurchNadi ApiaHonolulu Pusan BangkokHanoi Denver Dallas Singapore GuatemalaSan Taipei Kota Kinabalu Phuket Komatsu Baotou Hangzhou Harbin WuhanNanjingQingdaoXiamen Manag Kuala Lumpur Kolkata Dalian Saipan Rotorua Guam ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES United Route Code Share route serviced by a Star Alliance member Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

PhiladelphiaMiami Aruba New YorkBoston Frankfurt Washington,CityBelize DC Rio de Janeiro Copenhagen Chicago Newark Addis Ababa Paris Chennai (Madras) Tel Aviv Kuwait Lagos MunichJohannesburgHouston Accra MumbaiBangalore Rome Delhi Amman Alma-AtaAmsterdamCape Town Madrid Stockholm London Dubai Abu Dhabi Muscat Vienna AtlantaDallas Detroit WarsawShannon Buenos Aires uatemala City San Salvador Brussels CairoAsmara Bahrain Dakar Lisbon EastDurbanLondon Porto Hyderabad Orlando Tbilisi Port Elizabeth Lima TegucigalpaCuzcoSanPedroSulaManagua PeshawarLahoreIslamabadCochinColomboTrivandrumLiberia Doha Abuja Karachi Geneva CuritibaBrasilia Fortaleza Manaus PortoBeloAlegreSalvadorHorizonteIguassu Falls Recife Dublin Moscow Charlotte JeddahRiyadh Sal Istanbul Belfast Manchester BirminghamBristol EdinburghBarcelonaGlasgow OsloHamburgMilanBerlin PanamaSantiagoCity Montevideo 101 Budapest LisbonPorto Turin Lyon Geneva LondonParis Oslo HamburgCopenhagen Brussels MilanFrankfurtHannoverNurembergVenicePisaRomeNaplesTrieste Istanbul Bucharest Kiev Vienna MunichPrague Warsaw Helsinki BerlinLuga Bremen GrazInnsbruck LinzKlagenfurtSalzburg Sofia Sarajevo Cologne Dresden Verona Vilnius Katowice MarseilleStuttgartNice Riga Stavanger Ancona Dublin BolognaFlorenceGenoa Stockholm Amsterdam Basel EdinburghAberdeen Belfast Birmingham Bergen Ankara Glasgow Manchester BelgradeSkopje ShannonCork AdanAntalya Izmir Leipzig HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBR UARY 2010

At United Airlines, priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards. canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

Reservations 800-UNITED-1united.com (800-864-8331) Automated Flight Information 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award 800-UNITED-1united.com/mileageplusTravel(800-864-8331) Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service 800-537-7783united.com/chase Baggage Services 800-UNITED-1united.com/baggage(800-864-8331) Refunds 800-UNITED-1united.com/refunds(800-864-8331) TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS

your

on United or one of the Star

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we CONNECTING Whether next flight is Alliance partners around the world, use your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps Carpet

Flight

the terminal diagrams on pages 102–106 to plan

show ticket counters, United Red

Clubs and interterminal transportation. CONTACT INFORMATION Customer Relations 800-UNITED-1united.comEmail:united.com/customerrelationscustomerrelations@(800-864-8331) Red Carpet Club™ 520-881-0500866-UA-CLUBSunited.com/redcarpetclub(toll-free)(outsidethe U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170 Language Assistance (Asian) 800-426-5560 Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561 United Cargo 800-UA-CARGOunitedcargo.com(800-822-2746) United Services unitedsvcs.com Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations 800-32-TOURSunitedvacations.com(800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243 Employment Opportunities 888-UAL-JOBSunited.com/jobs(888-825-5627) EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options. Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass. Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced. DOMESTIC

our

INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKING YOUR

FLIGHT.

103HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBR UARY 2010 WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.IAD Concourse A Concourse C Air Canada ConcourseConcourseD B SouthAustrianContinentalANAAirlinesSASAfricanAirwaysUSAirwaysLufthansa MAIN TERMINALTERMINAL T C2 C12 C18 C Connector Tunnel Train C24 C1A2A4A6 A14 A32 B37B79A1A3A5C9 C17 C27 D1D3D2 D8 D30 CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.ORD TERMINALONE TERMINALTWO TERMINALTHREE Elevated Airport Transit System (ATS) PedestrianTunnel TERMINALFIVE InternationalArrivals Concourse F US Airways Concourse M Concourse E Air Canada Concourse B ContinentalLufthansa Concourse C C1 B1 F1 F4 F11 F14 F10F6 E1 B6 B9 B18B14 B22 C17 C19 C18C24C32 C16 C8 Shuttle runs between Gates C9 and E3. E3 C9 United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In United Easy Check-In Medical Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.DEN 57 TERMINALWEST TERMINALEAST Concourse C US Airways Concourse B Concourse A Air ContinentalCanadaLufthansa 2528261516 3736 35 41 3938 4950 60 80 919281 57 77 SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.SFO 72 Concourse G United Air New LufthansaANAZealandSingapore Concourse A Asiana Concourse B ContinentalUSAirways Concourse E Air CanadaConcourse F TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 3 80798988 81 73International Terminal Secure Connector 76A78A 71 MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 102–106 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. TOM INTERNATIONALBRADLEYTERMINAL ThaiLufthansaAirwaysANASingaporeAsianaSwiss TERMINAL 3TERMINAL 2 Air Canada Air New Zealand TERMINAL 1 US Airways TERMINAL 4TERMINAL 5TERMINAL 6 Continental TERMINAL 7TERMINAL 8 67A69A 68B64 75A71A 7672 888070A 124B LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.LAX United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Easy Check-In United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station United Easy Check-In Medical Center United Gate InternationalAreaArrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Train Stop United Easy Check-In

TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 2 37 39 43 56 50 4236 LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTLHR 105HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBR UARY 2010 FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTFRA B300-B303 B332-B340 TERMINAL ONE Pier A, Level 3 Gates A51-A65 Pier B Pier C C5 B20 B24 B26 B28 B48 B46 B44 C1 C7 C8 Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel Train to Terminal 2 Lufthansa Tower Lounge Level 5 TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTNRT Satellite 3 Satellite Satellite2 1 Satellite 5 Satellite 4 TERMINAL 1 313743 47 38 32 North Wing South WingPedestrianTunnel Third Floor Zone A ZoneFourthD Floor United Gate Area United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Gate InterterminalAreaTrain Stop Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Medical Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS STAR ALLIANCE United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In Medical Center US AIRWAYS HUBS CONTINENTAL HUBS CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLT PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHX PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHL CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLE B3C2 D2 D6 D10 D14 D17 D21 D25 D28 C7C14 C16C19 C22 C25 C29 C10 C4 Concourse C Continental Concourse B United Concourse A Concourse D Continental Pedestrian Tunnel NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTEWR AirTrain AirTrain connects to Amtrak and New Jersey Transit. 130127136 102101115 72 887571 B3 B2 B1 A1A2 A380 98 92 TERMINAL A ContinentalUnited TERMINAL B TERMINAL C Continental HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORTIAH TerminaLink connects B, C, D and E. It is above ground transportation between terminals while inside security. TerminaLink Shuttle Bus TERMINAL A United TERMINAL B TERMINALS A-E Continental TERMINAL CTERMINAL E TERMINAL D A25-30A3-15A17-24 B76-83 B84-91 C34-42C14-23 E1-9 E10-14E15-24B68-75 B60-67 Concourse A United Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D ConcourseConcoursesE B-E US Airways 24 Continuous shuttle bus pickup and drop-off between Gates F10 and C16. Concourse A West Concourse A East Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D United Concourses A, B, C & F US Airways Concourse E Concourse F 1 7 13 To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside. Concourse A Concourse B Concourse B International TERMINAL 4 US Airways TERMINAL 2 United 71

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the ﬁrst truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 18,900 daily ﬂights to 983 destinations in 169 countries.

REGIONAL ALLIANCE PARTNERS

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

STAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS

You can earn and redeem miles on many of our Regional Alliance Partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for speciﬁc information about each of our Regional Alliance Partners.

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®. Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive.

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. The miles you earn on any Star Alliance flight can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus.

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS

Aer Lingus Air HawaiianGreatEmiratesContinentalDolomitiConnectionLakesAirlines Island Air Jet TAMTACAQatarAirwaysAirwaysGroup

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. To receive eligible mileage credit, please ensure that the name on your ticket matches the one on your Mileage Plus account and the identiﬁcation you will use at check in. If you need to make a name change to your Mileage Plus account, please go to united.com/namechange for more information.

107HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBR UARY 2010

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suﬁciente para adquirir los documentos oﬁciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

&CUSTOMSIMMIGRATION ENTRY CUSTOMSREGULATIONSDECLARATION ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name. SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:Sí/No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios alSídorso):/No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales):Sí/No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: Visitantes—el$___ valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___ ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País donde vives 11. País en el que abordaron 12. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 13. Fecha del visado (Día/Mes/Año) 14. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 15. Ciudad y Estado 16. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 17. Dirección de correo electrónico 18. Apellido 19. Nombre 20. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 21. Pais de ciudadanía ENGLISH Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta. HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage. FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side Admission Number Arrival Record 000000000 00 Departure Record 000000000 00 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded 12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY) 14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection 15. City and State 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form. This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal. I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

poisons, infectious substances NOTE There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new controls on the import of meat, ﬁsh, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONSELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oﬁcial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender. other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

Admission Number Government Use Only Departure Record VISA WAIVER 00000000000 Admission Number Arrival Record VISA WAIVER 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Departure

Do any of the following apply to you? (Answer Yes or No) Do you have communicable disease; physical or mental disorder, or are you drug abuser or addict? Have you ever been arrested or convicted for an offense or crime involving moral turpitude or a violation related to a controlled substance; or been arrested or convicted for two or more offenses for which the aggregate sentence to confinement was five years or more; or been controlled substance trafficker, or are you seeking entry to engage in criminal or immoral activities? Have you ever been or are you now involved in espionage or sabotage; or in terrorist activities; or genocide; or between 1933 and 1945 were involved, in any way, in persecutions associated with Nazi Germany or its allies? Are you seeking to work in the U.S.; or have ever been excluded and deported; or been previously removed from the United States; or procured or attempted to procure visa or entry into the U.S. by fraud or Havemisrepresentation?youeverdetained, retained or withheld custody of child from a U.S. citizen granted custody of the child? Have you ever been denied a U.S. visa or entry into the U.S. or had a U.S. visa cancelled? If yes, when? ______________________ where? _________________________ Have you ever asserted immunity from prosecution? Yes NoF.E.D.C.B.A.

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for Countriesentry.that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom. *Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiﬂexion: With heel on ﬂoor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94W (05/08) CBP Form I-94W (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side 00000000000 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. City Where You Boarded 12. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 13. City and State 14. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 15. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship 5 U.S.C. 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the ﬂoor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No IMPORTANT: If you answered “Yes” to any of the above, please contact the American Embassy BEFORE you travel to the U.S. since you may be refused admission into the United States. Family Name (Please print) First Name Country of CitizenshipSignature Date

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

FlightDate:Port: No./Ship Name: Paperwork Reduction Act Statement: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0111. The estimated average time to complete this application is minutes per respondent. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, Asset Management, 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington DC 20229

CERTIFICATION: certify that have read and understand all the questions and statements on this form. The answers have furnished are true and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief.

Important – Retain this permit in your possession; you must surrender it when you leave the U.S. Failure to do so may delay your entry into the U.S. in the future. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. only until the date written on this form. To remain past this date, without permission from Department of Homeland Security authorities, is a violation of the law. Surrender this permit when you leave the U.S.: By sea or air, to the transportation line; Across the Canadian border, to Canadian Official; Across the Mexican border, to U.S. Official. Warning: You may not accept unauthorized employment; or attend school; or represent the foreign information media during your visit under this program. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. for 90 days or less. You may not apply for: 1) a change of nonimmigrant status; 2) adjustment of status to temporary or permanent resident, unless eligible under section 201(b) of the INA; or 3) an extension of stay. Violation of these terms will subject you to deportation. Any previous violation of this program, including having previously overstayed on this program without proper DHS authorization, will result in a finding of inadmissibility as outlined in Section 217 of the Immigration and Nationality Act.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , firmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario. Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país. Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino Unido. *Los ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos. Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) Nacionalidad Sexo (varón/hembra) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País de residencia 11. País en el que abordó 12. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 15. Dirección de correo electrónico SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas? Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales? Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa? Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos? Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique? Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde? G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento? Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

WAIVER OF RIGHTS: hereby waive any rights to review or appeal of a U.S. Customs and Border Protection officer’s determination as to my admissibility, or to contest, other than on the basis of an application for asylum, any action in deportation.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK 109HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | FEBR UARY 2010

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

Welcome to the United States I-94W Nonimmigrant Visa Waiver Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by every nonimmigrant visitor not in possession of a visitor’s visa, who is a national of one of the countries enumerated in 8 CFR 217. The airline can provide you with the current list of eligible countries. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. USE ENGLISH This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 15) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). The reverse side of this form must be signed and dated. Children under the age of fourteen must have their form signed by a parent or Itemguardian.9If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. Record

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A One single car by the largest Japanese automaker.

Name the palindrome (a phrase that reads the same forward and backward) indicated by the clue. For example: “The largest city in Poland had yet to be cooked” gives you “Warsaw was raw.”

G. Which two U.S. vice presidents shot a man during their terms in ofﬁce?

C. Who was the only president born in Connecticut?

C. The brand-name pain reliever containing acetaminophen is without companionship.

B. What building toy was invented in 1916 and named for the 16th president?

In honor of Presidents Day, a few trivia questions about our past chief executives.

1. 2. 3.

B. Coagulated soybean milk that comes from a ﬂying saucer.

F. William McKinley was the only president between 1870 and 1912 who didn’t wear what?

E. Sandler or Lambert formally introduces himself to a woman.

ANSWERS

E. Who was older: Republican nominee John McCain on Election Day 2008, or Republican nominee Bob Dole on Election Day 1996?

F. A question of whether water birds related to ducks and swans view the monotheistic deity.

D. Edible seaweed, made out of the metal that steel is alloyed from.

A. During the 20th century, President ’s grandson married President ’s daughter.

D. Who gave away the bride at the 1905 wedding of Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt?

H. In 1884, Grover Cleveland’s ﬁrst campaign for president was threatened when he publicly admitted to committing what scandalous act?

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2. HAIL TO THE FACTOID

“When you are ready to start dating, you want to immediately.”start

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Why log in when you can go out?

It’s Just Lunch Dating Specialist Amy Brinkman asks “Why waste time with online profiles and the bar scene when you could be on a date right now?”

It’s Just Lunch has professional Dating Specialists just like Amy Brinkman all around the world. Discover how we can help you create a more rewarding dating life today.ingaroundyouday.

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Meet your match today.

When we started It’s Just Lunch eighteen years ago, singles simply introduced themselves and began talking – done. Now, couples chat, email, instant message, tweet, text and even video chat. People relate through their computers and mobile phones. This makes it easier than ever to stay in touch with someone you already know – but nearly impossible to meet someone you don’t. Now the methods that people used to rely on for romantic introductions are gone, and people usually find themselves with just one network in their city: the office. That’s not always ideal and busy singles don’t have the time or desire to cruise the bars or scan online profiles. This is exactly where It’s Just Lunch comes in. We introduce our clients to real people – not online profiles or phone numbers. We provide that missing network, and we do it in a way that fits into everyone’s hectic schedule. How does It’s Just Lunch “match” singles? We believe that nothing replaces the human touch, and we don’t believe in “computer matches.” It doesn’t matter if you both like to jog, both like Chinese food, and both would like something long term – you can like all the same things and still not like each other. That’s why we use our intuition to create the match. First, we interview each client like you would get to know a new friend, learning about their personalities, their likes and dislikes, and their relationship goals. Then, we call to arrange their first date. We contact both clients, get their schedules, find a convenient time and place for them to meet, and even make them a reservation. There are no online profiles for the world to see, and it’s up to the clients if they want to share more details during their date and exchange cards in order to meet again. As part of our policy, we don’t give out our clients’ last names or phone numbers.

How has dating changed over the years? From my perspective, technology has changed everything.

Rule number one: Never talk about a past relationship. It can instill feelings of jealousy, awkwardness, or insecurity in seconds. If it comes up, give a brief answer and change the subject. Avoid topics such as politics and religion until you’ve gotten to know each other better. Make a conscious effort to ask or answer questions from your most positive perspective. Studies show people find you more interesting when you ask questions about them. If you don’t know what to ask, just pause a moment to think . . . silence can be sexy and mysterious.

Betty Sinclair Jennifer DonnellySara DarlingPJ Osgood

What kind of people would I meet through It’s Just Lunch? It’s Just Lunch clients are a diverse group representing many different professions, career stages and educational backgrounds. Some have just moved to a new city and want to fast-forward to meeting like-minded people. We commonly see singles spending most of their time with people from work, but they realize the pitfalls of dating coworkers. They come to us to expand their social circle outside of work. Our clients do have one thing in common, though: they’re ready to meet someone new. Any advice for the first-date conversation?

BUSINESS AND PLEASURE If I’m going someplace for business, I’ll also take a personal day or two. I’m at the stage in my life when I might as well enjoy it. So I’ve stopped ﬂying redeyes, and I always make sure I have time to really enjoy a new city.

DAVE SWANSON 53 / President,

FEBRUARY 2010 | UNITED .COM 114 PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON GETTING TO KNOW

WHO

Intelligence Advertising

in transit

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND YOU

“My company has model railroad clients but I’m also into them myself. I’ve probably got four hundred at home.” / Competitive WHY I’M TRAVELING / My company has model railroad clients, so I’m going to L.A. for a trade show. But I’m also into model railroads myself. I’ve probably got about four hundred at home. I NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT... / My laptop. It’s my universal device. I use it for work. I use it for entertainment. I use it as a clock. I put books on it to read. I’ll watch a video in one corner of the screen and work in the other. Sometimes it’s the only thing I take with me on trips.

À LA CARTE $ 3 AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS Pringles Potato Chips Ghirardelli Luxe Milk Chocolate Bar Fisher Salty Nut Mix Walkers Chocolate Chip or Shortbread Cookies Clif Oatmeal Raisin Walnut Bar Odwalla Banana Nut Nutritional Bar (Available through February 10, 2010) mySmoothie Fruit Smoothie Beverage EasyPurchasePAYMENT Only credit/debit cards are accepted. Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. PREMIUM COCKTAILS $ 8 Trader Vic’s Mai Tai (served on Hawaii flights to/from the mainland) Jose Cuervo Margarita PREMIUM SPIRITS $ 8 Glenlivet Single Malt Scotch Whisky Maker’s Mark Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky SPIRITS $ 6 Bacardi CanadianRumClub Reserve Whisky Dewar’s White Label Scotch Finlandia Vodka Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey Tanqueray Gin LIQUEURS $ 6 Bailey’s Irish Cream Courvoisier VSOP Cognac Kahlúa PREMIUM WINE $ 7 - $ 8 RED - Cheviot Bridge Shiraz 2008 South Eastern Australia $ 7 WHITE - Cheviot Bridge Chardonnay 2008 Adelaide Hills Australia $ 7 SPARKLING - Rotari Talento Brut Sparkling Wine $ 8 WINE $ 6 RED - Redwood Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California WHITE - Redwood Creek Chardonnay 2007 California PREMIUM BEER $ 7 Leinenkugel’s Sunset Wheat Beer BEER $ 6 Miller Genuine Draft Miller Lite SPIRITS, WINE and BEER AVAILABLE ON ALL FLIGHTS, ALL DAY CLASSIC $ 6 Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips Oreo Cookies Jelly Belly Gourmet Jelly Beans Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers Sparrer Beef Salami Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread Pepperidge Farm Crackers LUXE $ 7 Rondelé Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread Pepperidge Farm Crackers Food S hould Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips Oloves Mediterranean or Vinaigrette Olives Wild Garden Hummus Dip Real Torino Se same Breadsticks Asher’s Dark Chocolate Pretzel ORGANIC $ 7 Late July Organic Cheddar Cheese Crackers Terra Nostra Organic Dark Chocolate Square Kettle Valley Organic Fruit Snack Nature’s Path Organic Pumpkin Fla xplus Granola Bare Fruit Organic Cinnamon Apple Chips SNACKBOXES AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS UNITED ECONOMY - NORTH AMERICA WELCOME ABOARD! We are pleased to offer Choice Menu meal and snack selections for purchase in United Economy® on most North America flights. Enjoy the service and thank you for flying with United.saladcaesarchicken

Specially selected cheeses includin g monterey jack, havarti dill and cheddar, dried cranberries, almond s and assorted Pepperidge Farm crackers.

FRUIT AND YOGURT PARFAIT $ 5

Your feedback is welcomed via ualsurvey.com w ithin seven days of your flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if your selection is not available on today’s ﬂight.

TURKEY SANDWICH $ 9

HAM AND SWISS CROISSANT $ 5 Flavorful ham and swiss cheese on a croissant with dijonnaise sauce (served cold).

CINNAMON CRUMB CAKE MUFFIN $ 3

ANTIPASTO PLATE $ 7

THAI CHICKEN WRAP $ 9

Fresh spinach, blue cheese crumbles, dr ied cranberries and walnut halves, served with balsamic vinaigrette dressing and croutons on the side.

A moist and tasty muffin with cinnamon streusel topping.

CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST $ 5

ROAST BEEF SANDWICH $ 9

ASSORTED CHEESE TRAY $ 6

ITALIAN SANDWICH $ 9 Ham, salami, mozzarella, roasted tomatoes, Italian dressing on rustic Italian bread accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips (Effective February 11, 2010).

French toast flavored bagel, cream cheese, Smuckers strawberry jam and Upstate Farms strawberry yogurt.

NEW United does not serve peanuts as snacks or use peanuts or peanut oils in foods served on our ﬂights. However, we do serve vendor products manufactured in facilities that also produce items containing peanuts or peanut oils, and we do have snack mixes that contain other tree nuts, such as almonds and pistachios.

SPINACH SALAD $ 9

ELI’S ORIGINAL PLAIN CHEESECAKE $ 3 Chicago’s Hometown Favorite. (Effective January 5)

Tasty roast beef topped with crisp romaine lettuce and horseradish mayonnaise on ciabatta bread, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips (Available through February 10, 2010).

Tender smoked turkey topped with crisp romaine lettuce and sundried tomato aioli sauce on multigrain brea d, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, julienned carrots, red and yellow bell pepper strips and Thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

CHICKEN CAESAR SALAD $ 9

Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, shredded parmesan cheese on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, served with classic caesar dressing and croutons on the side.

Sliced salami, mozzarella cheese, havarti dill cheese, Mediterranean or Vinaigrette olives and Grissini Torino breadsticks.

BREAKFAST ON FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS DEPARTING BEFORE 10 AM LUNCH/DINNER ON FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS DEPARTING BETWEEN 10 AM - 8 PMwrapchickenthaitraycheeseassortedsaladspinachparfaityogurtandfruitygppyp

Low fat vanilla yogurt served with fruit and a side of granola.

CHARLIE TROTTER Charlie Trotter’s namesake Chicago establishment is one of the world’s most-awarded restaurants, having been named, among others, “The Best Restaurant in the World for Wine & Food” ( Wine Spectator, 1998), and “Outstanding Restaurant” (The James Beard Foundation, 2000). Restaurant Magazine has voted it one of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” every year since 2004. Chef Trotter has designed a new menu especially for United, available on most United First ® and United Business ® outbound international flights.

TRADER VIC’S Selections from the legendary Trader Vic’s will be available in United First and United Business class on many of our Pacific and Asian routes and on United First class between Hawaii and the mainland. On any given flight you could enjoy items like Sesame Pink Peppercorn Salmon with Lime Leaf Beurre Blanc Sauce, or Chicken with Shiitake Mushrooms in Mango Chili Stir Fry.

BEVERAGES

UNITED

UNITED ECONOMY PREMIUM WINES (DOMESTIC ONLY)

UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS CABINS Please refer to the printed menu.

COCKTAILS, BEER, SPIRITS, LIQUEURS

ONLY

BEVERAGES

On selected intra-Pacific flights originating from Japan, enjoy a Trader Vic’s meal in United First or Business.

WINES

UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS (DOMESTIC) You will be offered a choice of red and white wines.

NON-ALCOHOLIC

COCKTAIL

UNITED FIRST, UNITED BUSINESS AND UNITED ECONOMY BEER Beer offerings are subject to availability. A selection of regional beers is offered on some International flights.

Coke Diet Coke Sprite Sprite Zero Ginger Ale Starbucks Coffee Bloody Mary Mix Apple & Tomato Juices Spring Water

Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard.

RED WHITE ECONOMY® ALL FLIGHTS

UNITED ECONOMY PREMIUM COCKTAIL (DOMESTIC ONLY)

Selections may include the following:

CONTEMPORARY American Cuisine

DOUG FROST United has partnered with world renowned Master Sommelier and Master of Wine, Doug Frost, to supply the perfect selections for all of our new menu offerings. With a new food philosophy centered around contemporary American cuisine, United’s premium onboard dining is being elevated to new heights. Along with our culinary partners Charlie Trotter, Trader Vic’s, and Master Sommelier Doug Frost, we’re offering traditional dishes with a modern twist, while also offering regional and ethnic items. The new menu is built around fresh, local, ingredients whenever possible, combined in innovative new offerings.Premium inflight dining with a modern twist...

SPIRITS LIQUEURS ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK . Beverage service is available on most United flights. Alcoholic beverage selections vary according to cabin class and international or domestic flight status. Alcoholic beverages are available for $6 – $8 on most flights.

United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine February 2010

Articles inside

In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

Artifact A souvenir from the fi eld

Industry By rolling out a new model, the snazzy Kizashi, Suzuki makes a run for the front of the U.S. pack.

Crossword, sudoku and quiz

Hero Shaun Duvall forges connections between Midwestern farmers and their Mexican

Tech Wi-Fi Direct aims to eliminate the need for wires, Bluetooth and maybe even

Print Scandinavian countries tend to have low crime rates, but their literary output most certainly

Food & Drink British star chef Heston Blumenthal rewrites the recipe for roadside diner chain

Vision As the cultish TV phenomenon enters its fi nal season, experts weigh in on what it

Comments

Connections United aims to give you exactly what you want.

Whereabouts Nascar driver Juan Pablo Montoya escapes to tropical paradise.

Notes From All Over Alien designer

Sound On her latest album Charlotte Gainsbourg draws inspiration from brain surgery.

Voices Safety is United’s top priority.

News Where to stay, what to see when to go.

Whirlwind Five hours in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico