United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine June 2010 by Ahmed Aamir

A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER PLUS: DEEPAK CHOPRA, THE WORLD CUP AND UNDERWATERCANCUN’S MUSEUM THREE PERFECT DAYS: LONG ISLAND AN AFRICANOFTHEREDISCOVERINGSOPHIATOWN:SECRETSNEXTBETTYFOREVERBESTSUMMER’SPASSALL-ACCESSTOTHEFESTIVALSYOUNG:WHITE’SACTOFBIRTHPLACESOUTHMUSIC

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Summer on a Hamptons beach

contents UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM IMAGESBUESING/GETTYNINABYPHOTOGRAPH

THREE PERFECT DAYS: LONG ISLAND

THE REBIRTH OF COOL

The Hamptons, that well-known summer camp for the rich and famous, are bordered by windswept beaches, rustic ﬁshing piers and a plethora of artisanal eateries. Hard to believe they’re less than 100 miles from Manhattan.

The neighborhoodJohannesburgofSophiatown gave birth to some of the greatest music ever recorded. Despite the apartheid government’s attempts to silence it, the beat goes on.

BY STEVE KNOPPER

THE HEMI Q&A: BETTY WHITE

BY DAVID CARR BOOM TOWN Every year, the tiny city of Manchester, Tennessee, hosts about 80,000 Bonnaroo festivalgoers— and local residents are grateful for each and every one of them.

BY SARAH HORNE 62

The beloved star of The Mary Tyler Moore Show, The Golden Girls and the new sitcom Hot in Cleveland isn’t letting her age—88—stand in her way.

BY MYA FRAZIER

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 708074

3PD | P. 80 Jun.

“Eastern Long Island has a regal, quiet beauty and a slant of light that can make even the most jaded world travelers stop in their tracks, awestruck.”

View from the Yeatman Hotel in Porto,

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BY SARAH HORNE 43 The Big Ten Jimmy Cliff, The Twilight Saga and what else to watch, read and listen to this month.

49 Sports A soccer fanatic would give up anything to see the World Cup. Well, almost anything.

57 Food & Drink Umami, the hard-todefine fifth flavor, has food-world tongues wagging.

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BY JOSH DEAN 52 Industry The Disney Institute takes clients behind the scenes to see how the magic happens.

Portugal

COVER IMAGE Mark Ulriksen // markulriksen.com 4025 WRITE TO US: Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St., Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 8 Comments 11 Voices Behind the scenes at United 14 Connections United does its part to reduce and recycle. 16 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 19 Notes From All Over A Russian ballet goes 3-D in St. Petersburg; the oldest fish in Queens, New York, gets a birthday bash; Jerash, Jordan, has a Roman holiday; Chicago's Museum of Science and Industry whips up a 40-foot tornado; and divers in Cancun are treated to a special art exhibit. DIRECTIONS 25 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go 30 Whirlwind Five hours in Melbourne 33 Goods 36 Whereabouts Deepak Chopra unwinds in Goa, India. CULTURE 38 Wheels Just in time for summer, BMW releases the M3 convertible. The open road never felt so good. BY MIKE GUY 41 Style Not content just to have the fluffiest pillows, hotels bring fashion to the forefront.

47 Hero Howard Schiffer helps make sure children around the world take their vitamins. BY JAYME OTTO

BY DOUGLAS RUSHKOFF

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BY ADAM BAER 61 Artifact A souvenir from the ﬁeld PLAY Movies, television and audio programming Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams Crossword and sudoku In Transit Who’s sitting next to you? Beverages & Food

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Time really does ﬂy when you’re having fun. It’s hard to believe it’s been a year since we relaunched Hemispheres. Since then, we’ve scoured underwater caves for medical remedies (“The Treasure Hunter,” August ’09), painted the town with enigmatic French street artist JR (“Street Fighter,” October ’09), gone a few rounds with Chicago’s female boxing phenoms (“Girls of Summer,” December ’09) and visited a ﬂoating hospital treating survivors of the Haitian earthquake (“To Aid and Comfort,” April ’10). We reinvented Three Perfect Days and traveled everywhere from New Orleans to Shanghai, earning kudos along the way from the North American Travel Journalists Association, which named 3PD the year’s Best Travel Series. If you missed those stories, go to our website, hemispheresmagazine.com. You can peruse all that and more, and add your own two cents. Maybe you have a favorite Long Island vineyard that didn’t make it into 3PD? Let fellow travelers know about it. Michael W. Cater, M.D., directed readers of “Three Perfect Days: Montreal” to the Sir William Osler Library, declaring it “a must-see for all those interested in medical history.” Meanwhile, “Three Perfect Days: Sonoma” drew recommendations from foodies like Lisa Villarini, who gushes about Dry Creek Kitchen, proclaiming, “The food is exceptional!” (With chef Charlie Palmer running the show, we don't doubt it.) We also welcome your ideas for stories and your rants and raves. And while you're at it, wish us a happy birthday. NY 11201

RODRIGO CORRAL The School of Visual Arts graduate is currently working with Criterion Collection. “I’m really excited about AK 100: 25 Films of Akira Kurosawa I designed it inside and out,” he says. His favorite place to sample umami (“Flavor of the Month,” page 57) is Umami Burger in Los Angeles. “I love burgers in general,” he adds.

DOUGLAS RUSHKOFF The media and social theorist lectures about technology, society and commerce. In addition to exploring the magic of Disney (“The Keys to the Kingdom,” page 52), he’s got a big project underway: “I just started something called The Institute for Applied Memetics, where we look at why people believe what they believe.”

JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM comments EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy SENIOR EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Grant Stoddard, Matthew Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, Graham Roumieu EDITORIAL INTERNS Carren Jao, Calvin Men PHOTO INTERN Winston Woo EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com917-591-6247 hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Ari Kasimov, Catherine Hanson, Christa Abdou, Danny Litton, David Levy, David Low, Jorge Abadia REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVE HAWAII Robert Wiegand TEL: +1 808-587-8300 INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES CHINA/JAPAN TEL:JOSEPHINE.HO@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+85235419890 SOUTHEAST ASIA TEL:SHAZEEN.MOLEDINA@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+6563022465 EUROPE TEL:MARK.DUKE@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138796 MIDDLE EAST TEL:ANTHONY.AZOURY@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138798 LATIN AMERICA PRODUCTIONTEL:ALEJANDRO.SALAS@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+528150307415MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 PRODUCTION678-553-8091CONTROLLERS Grace Rivera, Stacy Willis Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor afﬁliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines. HEMISPHERES

MYA FRAZIER The Columbus, Ohio–based writer has been on staff with Advertising Age and The Cleveland Plain Dealer. Her work has also appeared in The Economist and Columbus Monthly This summer you can ﬁnd her at Bonnaroo (“Boom Town,” page 74). “We plan on taking our two teenage sons,” she says. “We hope to win the Coolest Parents Ever award.”

WHAT DO YOU THINK? WRITE TO US! Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn,

? Time ContributorsFlies 8 ERFECT DAYS: SAN DIEGO LITTLE HAVANA’S WARMING TREND JIMMY CARTER GOES HEMISPHERESNUTS

With the announcement of the agreement to merge United and Continental Airlines, United Airlines Chairman and Chief Executive Officer Glenn Tilton talks about the beneﬁts for our customers around the globe.

voicesWin-Win

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010

BY COMBINING UNITED AND CONTINENTAL, WE ARE BUILDING A STRONG AIRLINE THAT WILL BENEFIT CUSTOMERS, EMPLOYEES AND STOCKHOLDERS ALIKE. // BY GLENN TILTON

Glenn Tilton, right, of United and Jeff Smisek, left, conferenceatCEO—Continental,PresidentChairman,andthepress

LAST MONTH, we announced our decision to merge with Continental Airlines, combining the best of two great organizations to create the world’s leading airline, with strengths that will beneﬁt our valued customers. With this merger, we are bringing together two world-class companies known for exceptional customer service and operational excellence. Together, the new airline will create a truly comprehensive global network, serving 370 destinations around the world, connecting our cities and smaller communities. When looking at how our routes ﬁt together, the logic that drives the merger is immediately clear.

Continental’s network is a natural fit with ours. They increase our presence in New York and Latin America, build on our extensive routes across the Pacific, the Midwest and West Coast, and help make our excellent coverage in Europe even better. The bottom line: Together, we will provide our passengers with greater ease accessing communities across the U.S. and around the world. We will have an industry-leading frequent flyer program as we plan to combine all your miles into one account, providing you with more opportunities to earn and redeem miles across an enhanced global network.Theannouncement builds on our strong relationship with our partner Continental, which we brought into the Star Alliance last year. Merging the two airlines is expected to take that partner relationship to the next level—a true merger of equals, as we combine two great brands. I will serve as non-executive chairman of the new company, and Jeff Smisek will serve as CEO. Our management team will draw equally from the True

12 JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM talented leaders of each company. Our headquarters and operational center will be in Chicago. Our airline will have 10 hubs, including hubs in the four largest U.S. cities, and will continue to provide service to all of the communities that United and Continental currently serve. The company will be called United Airlines and will use the Continental colors, logo and livery. Houston will be our combined carrier’s largest hub. Our companies and our people know each other well. When Jeff and I were together last month in New York to announce the news, we were asked what our customers can expect from this merger. And the answer is simple: a world-class airline that brings together the best of our two companies. Our company will have the ﬁnancial strength to enhance customers’ travel experience by enabling us to invest in globally competitive products, upgrade technology, refurbish and replace older aircraft and implement the best-inclass practices of both airlines. There’s probably no one who knows the ups and downs of the airline industry better than frequent ﬂyers. We have discussed with you in the Voices column some of the work the United team is doing in order to deliver better service, invest in our products and improve our airline—all with a commitment to getting you there safely. That work will be ongoing as we continue to measure the improvements in our operational and service delivery performance month byOurmonth.colleagues at Continental share our vision. This combination allows us to enhance our service to our communities and to deliver the best possible service to our customers. It will also provide long-term career opportunities for

For more information, please go to Unitedcontinentalmerger.com. voices The company will be called United and will use the Continental colors, logo and livery.

This communication does not constitute an offer to sell or the solicitation of an offer to buy any securities or a solicitation of any vote or approval. The proposed merger of equals transaction between UAL Corporation (“UAL”) and Continental Airlines, Inc. (“Continental”) will be submitted to the respective stockholders of UAL and Continental for their consideration.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION FOR INVESTORS AND STOCKHOLDERS

UAL will ﬁle with the Securities and Exchange Commission (“SEC”) a registration statement on Form S-4 that will include a joint proxy statement of Continental and UAL that also constitutes a prospectus of UAL. UAL and Continental also plan to ﬁle other documents with the SEC regarding the proposed transaction.

“We were asked what our customers can expect from the merger. And the answer is simple: a world-class airline that brings together the best of our two companies.” our employees and deliver increased value for shareholders. We know you will be paying close attention as we work toward implementing the merger after closing and smoothly integrating these two companies, and we fully expect to meet and exceed your expectations.AsJeffand I said when we were in New York, “Let’s Fly Together.”

INVESTORS AND SECURITY HOLDERS OF CONTINENTAL ARE URGED TO READ THE JOINT PROXY STATEMENT/PROSPECTUS AND OTHER RELEVANT DOCUMENTS THAT WILL BE FILED WITH THE SEC CAREFULLY AND IN THEIR ENTIRETY WHEN THEY BECOME AVAILABLE BECAUSE THEY WILL CONTAIN IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THE PROPOSED TRANSACTION. Investors and stockholders will be able to obtain free copies of the joint proxy statement/prospectus and other documents containing important information about UAL and Continental, once such documents are filed with the SEC, through the website maintained by the SEC at http://www.sec.gov. Copies of the documents filed with the SEC by UAL will be available free of charge on UAL’s website at www.united.com or by contacting UAL’s Investor Relations Department at (312) 997-8610. Copies of the documents filed with the SEC by Continental will be available free of charge on Continental’s website at www.continental.com or by contacting Continental’s Investor Relations Department at (713) 324-5152. UAL, Continental and certain of their respective directors and executive officers may be deemed to be participants in the solicitation of proxies from the stockholders of Continental in connection with the proposed transaction. Information about the directors and executive officers of Continental is set forth in its proxy statement for its 2010 annual meeting of stockholders, which was filed with the SEC on April 23, 2010. Information about the directors and executive officers of UAL is set forth in its proxy statement for its 2010 annual meeting of stockholders, which was filed with the SEC on April 30, 2010. These documents can be obtained free of charge from the sources indicated above. Other information regarding the participants in the proxy solicitation and a description of their direct and indirect interests, by security holdings or otherwise, will be contained in the joint proxy statement/prospectus and other relevant materials to be filed with the SEC when they become available. CONTINUED ON PG. 14

IN MY WORLD, NOT CONNECTED MEANS NOT IN BUSINESS. FOR A TOUGHWORLDTM Intel, the Intel logo, Intel Core and Core Inside are trademarks of Intel Corporation in the U.S. and other countries. Toughbook notebook PCs are covered by a 3-year limited warranty, parts and labor. To view the full text of the warranty, log on to panasonic.com/business/toughbook/support.asp. Please consult your Panasonic representative prior to purchase. Panasonic is constantly enhancing product speciﬁcations and accessories. Speciﬁcations subject to change without notice. (*CF-52M and CF-52P are Intel® Core™ i5 vPro™ processor) ©2010 Panasonic Corporation of North America. All rights reserved. NotInBusiness_H_Bizco_FY10-2 DEPENDABLE WIRELESS ANYWHERE YOUR MOBILE PHONE WORKS. Now more than ever, your business lives and dies by its connections. That’s exactly why Panasonic’s durable and reliable Toughbook® computers, powered by the Intel® Core™ i5 vPro™ processor*, offer optional embedded 3G broadband wireless modems. The embedded modems are protected from the elements, and with a carrier subscription they deliver dependable wireless anywhere your mobile phone can. What’s more, no external air cards means there’s no risk of damaging the computer or losing the card. Everything about these machines is tough, but staying connected certainly isn’t. Learn more: 1.877.30.TOUGH / panasonic.com/toughbookTOUGHBOOK Windows®. Life without Walls™. Panasonic recommends Windows. BUY NOW: $100 OFF THE PURCHASE PRICE OF YOUR FIRST TOUGHBOOK COMPUTER AVAILABLE FROM BIZCO TECHNOLOGIES AT 1.877.30.TOUGH / TOUGHONLINE.COM OFFER APPLIES TO ALL TOUGHBOOK MODELS. LIMITED TIME OFFER. COUPON CODE UNITED Toughbook 52*Toughbook U1 Toughbook 31Toughbook H1Toughbook F8

SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPHS

HERE IS HOW REDUCING AND RECYCLING MAKE A DIFFERENCE:

Reducing and Recycling in the Air

• Producing a plastic bottle from recycled plastic uses only 66 percent of the energy required to manufacture it from raw materials.

• Producing a can from recycled aluminum uses 95 percent less energy than producing one from raw aluminum.

• Recycling United’s 25 million cans and six million bottles each year saves enough energy to power a community of more than 3,700 homes for a full year. Our onboard recycling program is an important part of our commitment to protecting the environment—building on our actions in the air, on the ground and in our communities. We know that acting responsibly and protecting the environment are important to our customers and our employees. Using less onboard and recycling more are some of the actions we are taking to make a difference. Every action counts.

DID YOU KNOW that every three months Americans discard enough aluminum to rebuild all the commercial airplanes in the U.S. ? As you settle into your flight and sip your refreshing beverage, maybe you’ve thought, What happens to the cans and bottles on this flight when I’m done? Our flight attendants collect those cans and bottles and send them to be recycled. In fact, we’re now recycling up to 25 million cans and six million plastic bottles across our domestic flights every year. That’s more than 590 tons of cans and bottles that we keep out of landfills.

CAUTIONARY STATEMENT REGARDING FORWARD-LOOKING STATEMENTS This communication contains “forward-looking statements” within the meaning of the safe harbor provisions of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995 that are not limited to historical facts, but reflect Continental’s and UAL’s current beliefs, expectations or intentions regarding future events. Words such as “may,” “will,” “could,” “should,” “expect,” “plan,” “project,” “intend,” “anticipate,” “believe,” “estimate,” “predict,” “potential,” “pursue,” “target,” “continue,” and similar expressions are intended to identify such forward-looking statements. These forward-looking statements include, without limitation, Continental’s and UAL’s expectations with respect to the synergies, costs and other anticipated financial impacts of the proposed transaction; future financial and operating results of the combined company; the combined company’s plans, objectives, expectations and intentions with respect to future operations and services; approval of the proposed transaction by stockholders and by governmental regulatory authorities; the satisfaction of the closing conditions to the proposed transaction; the timing of the completion of the proposed transaction; and other factors that are set forth in the “Risk Factors” section, the “Legal Proceedings” section, the “Management’s Discussion and Analysis of Financial Condition and Results of Operations” section and other sections of UAL’s and Continental’s Annual Reports on Form 10-K, subsequent Quarterly Reports on Form 10-Q, recent Current Reports on Form 8-K, and other SEC filings. All subsequent written and oral forward-looking statements concerning Continental, UAL, the proposed transaction or other matters and attributable to Continental or UAL or any person acting on their behalf are expressly qualified in their entirety by the cautionary statements above. Neither Continental nor UAL undertakes any obligation to publicly update any of these forward-looking statements to reflect events or circumstances that may arise after the date hereof.

CONTINUED FROM PG. 12

JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM 14 connections

UNITED’S ONBOARD PROGRAMS MAKE A DIFFERENCE.

IN PLAIN SIGHT // The Church of Tiobamba perches on a plateau. 16 JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COMwish you were here

CUZCO, PERU // PHOTOGRAPH BY DAMM FRIDMAR

“This is the coolest thing I’ve ever seen,” says one boy.

“What’s that show where the people drive around like crazy?” a friend asks. “Storm Chasers.” “Oh yeah. It’s just like that.” MIKE GUY

Blowin’ in the Wind CHICAGO CHASING STORMS ALONG LAKE MICHIGAN ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU 19 NOTES FROM ALL OVER dispatches

The exhibit’s main draw is a 40-foot-tall “tornado,” a vortex of swirling vapors that rise out of the ﬂoor and spin with the velocity of an actual twister. The tornado is powered by four fans capable of moving over 100,000 cubic feet of air per minute—which is a lot—and visitors can manipulate the vortex from a console. Dorothy Gale would be impressed.

Another line snakes to the entrance of a wind tunnel that generates an 80-mph breeze. “It’s basically simulating the sustained strength of a Category One hurricane,” explains senior project manager Chris Wilson. “Of course, we create a safe environment in which to experience it. There are no objects in the wind that are going to hit you.”

ONE SPRING MORNING on Chicago’s Lake Shore Drive, a long line forms under an unseasonably warm sun. The Museum of Science and Industry (MSI) has just opened a new exhibit, “Science Storms,” and it’s been drawing such crowds daily, rain or shine. At 9:30 a.m. on the nose, a guard unlocks the doors, and the group—a mixture of kids on field trips and hard-core weather aficionados (they like to call themselves “weather weenies”)—files into the 26,000-square-foot exhibit.

A group of seventh graders from nearby Lincoln Park are gathered around the tornado.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010

Patrons gather at an angled 20-foot disk covered in snowlike granules and are invited to trigger an avalanche. A little farther along, visitors stand before a 30-foot wave tank and watch as a computerized control mechanism whips up a custom tsunami.

“I’m not sure if it’s the largest manmade tornado,” says Dave Mosena, the president of MSI. “But it’s certainly the largest interactive one. We want people’s jaws to drop to the ﬂoor, sure, but I think with tornadoes, which can be very dangerous and destructive, the more people know, the safer they’ll be.”

“Charlton Heston was wrong,” announces Stellan Lind, a tall Stockholm native wrapped in a toga, speaking to the 500 spectators in a large hippodrome 50 minutes outside Amman, in the Roman ruins of Jerash. “The chariot race was seven times around the Circus Maximus, not nine! And the spikes on the chariot wheels in Ben-Hur?

20 JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM dispatches

The soldiers amass in formation and prepare to launch their javelins as the onlookers ﬂinch. Soon chariots appear, harnessed to Iberian-bred steeds, and begin racing around the ring—seven times. Eventually, the RACE reaches its climax: Two gladiators emerge, dressed in rags and animal skins. One wields a trident and a net, the other a ball and chain. After a heated match, the crowd signals its disapproval for the vanquished soldier.

Taylor, who spent his childhood living in Malaysia, Spain and Portugal, seems perfectly suited to this project. The 36-year-old has worked as a diving instructor and engineer as well as sculptor. But perhaps his biggest inﬂuence, he says, was the graffiti he began doing after his family settled in southern England. “Graffiti is so —MATTdecorateTheI’munderwater“That’sopportunity,”governeduncontrolled—it’sbychanceandhesays.whatIloveaboutwork.Nowjustprovidingthewalls.spongesandcoralthem.”THOMPSON

“I’m the crazy guy who moved to Jordan to make his boyhood dream come true,” he says, mopping sweat from his brow with the fringe of his toga. As boyhood dreams go, this is a pretty eccentric one, but the result is a meticulously researched blend of history lesson and Hollywood spectacle.

HistoryChanneling JERASH, JORDAN CANCUN, MEXICO OCTOPUS’S GARDEN English artist Jason deCaires Taylor’s latest installation, while still a work in progress, already boasts more visitors than any other in of a reef, or a table set for breakfast, complete with a bowl of stone oranges. “I’ve gone back to visit some of my older pieces and found long beards of sea sponges growing off of a ﬁgure’s cheek, or big fans of coral on the forehead,” says Taylor. The statues are built from a special kind of pHneutral concrete that’s more than 10 times stronger than the stuff used in parking garages, a perfect anchor for growing sea life.

Rows of soldiers emerge from another door and march toward one another, raising their shields and clutching their gladii. The soldiers advance and begin the “ﬁght.” Amid the loud clashing of metal, the unmistakable sound of an imam’s call to prayer drifts across the crowd. Lind sweats in his seat high above the action, surveying the scene like Emporer Titus. He’s the unlikely founder of the largest Roman historical reenactment in the world, the Roman Army and Chariot Experience, or RACE, and de facto general to the 45 actor-legionnaires who battle bloodlessly below (shows are twice daily, Saturday through Thursday).

Lind pauses and thrusts out his hand: thumb down. With that, the defeated gladiator kneels, and the winner stands above him and ﬁnishes him off with a splash of red dye.

With that, a trumpeter sounds the signal and a Roman legionnaire clad in full regalia enters the arena. From under a steel helmet, the centurion barks a command in Latin.

Another Hollywood invention.”

MARY WINSTON NICKLIN

proppedbicyclistapermanentlyacross60Grenada,scubarepresentativeimagesartistcourse,twopieces“Whenyearsitcoral.slowlymonumentscivilization,areef.tons(atofsea—theaboutoffcountingAmerica—providedLatinwe’reﬁsh.LocatedjustthecoastofCancun—and20feetbelowthecreationconsistsmorethan200statuesaweightofthreetosixeach)boltedtoacoralTheprojectresemblessortofready-madelostaﬁeldoftoourtimebeingcoveredin“Manypeoplewhoseethinkit’safewhundredold,”Taylorsays.infacttheoldestwereputinlessthanyearsago.”Thisconfusionis,ofpartofthepoint.Thepurposefullypicksanditemsthatareoftoday.AdiverprowlingoffwhereTaylorhassculptures,mightcomeatypistwithhandspoisedaboveconcretekeyboard,orafrozenmidpedalagainsttheedge

Best coverage worldwide. More phones that work in more countries, like Greece. att.com/global Best coverage claim based on global coverage of U.S. carriers. Activation of international service required. ©2010 AT&T Intellectual Property. Service provided by AT&T Mobility. All rights reserved. AT&T, the AT&T logo, and all other marks contained herein are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property and/or AT&T affiliated companies. All other marks contained herein are the property of their respective owners. Coverage not available in all areas.

22 JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM

Having just celebrated his 44th birthday—including a festive party that turned out dozens of longtime neighbors— Buttkiss is probably the oldest pet fish in New York. How old is he? He’s so old that he has arthritis in his gills, and one regular customer swears he’s developed glaucoma in one eye. Gruebel isn’t convinced. “How can a fish get glaucoma?” he asks—adding with a wink that fish oil is often used to treat the disease in humans.

The cloudy lens, he contends, is from Buttkiss rubbing up against the sides of his 75-gallon aquarium. After offering to demonstrate, Gruebel turns and peers into the tank. On the other side of the glass, Buttkiss approaches, “wags” his tailfin playfully and darts back and forth, rubbing along the sides of the tank like a clumsy puppy. Gruebel bought the fish from a wholesaler in 1967 and sold him a year later. In 1970, after Buttkiss outgrew his owner’s tank, Gruebel welcomed him back to the pet store. Since then, the fish has become a neighborhood fixture—not to mention Gruebel’s loyal sales partner, one who can reliably identify new customers. “If you walk in the door and say, ‘Holy cow, look at that fish!’ then I know you’ve never been here before. Because everybody knows Buttkiss.”—PETER KOCH Star Fish QUEENS, NEW YORK ST. PETERSBURG, RUSSIA DANCING SCREEN

dispatchesHunkeringintheshadow

Next time fans of 3-D technology see a willowy hero jump out of their screens, it won’t necessarily be a blue Na’vi warrior. On a cool night in downtown St. Petersburg, the Mariinsky Ballet, better known in the West as the legendary Kirov, is set to join the ranks of Vincent Price horror flicks and the recent James Cameron blockbuster by becoming the world’s first ballet to televise a live performance in 3-D. The Mariinsky Theater has been outfitted with high-tech cameras for a gala concert, a medley of the company’s most acclaimed works, which is being broadcast for free across most of Europe. For viewers who have yet to buy a 3-D TV (just about everyone), the organizers have set up viewing salons in Paris, Moscow and here in St. Petersburg.Thehouse lights dim, the curtain opens, and after the orchestra quietly plays the first bars of Swan Lake, Mariinsky prima donna Ulyana Lopatkina takes the stage. For once, the best seat in the house isn’t the tsar’s box but the foyer outside the auditorium. That’s where Mariinsky’s superstar artistic director Valery Gergiev and assorted other theatrical VIPs don specially designed glasses and take in the show on a giant 3-D exhibitionImmediatelyflat-screen.aftertheconcertends, the theater kicks off the 10th Mariinsky International Ballet Festival with the premiere of Anna Karenina.

Unfortunately for viewers in Moscow and Paris, that performance can only be seen the onSkywithalreadyway—byold-fashionedticketholders.Sportschannelshaveembraced3-D,ESPN,DiscoveryandSportsalljumpingthebandwagon;now high culture is getting in on the act. New York's Metropolitan Opera has been thethiswithexperiment,”“Wetheappears2006,performancessimulcastinginHDsincebuttheMariinskytohavetakentechnologicallead.needtocontinuetoGergievsaysasmile,promisingthatisonlythebeginningfor150-year-oldtheater.JAKERUDNITSKY

With its vintage fish food posters and century-old mechanical cash register, little has changed here since owner Steve Gruebel returned from the Vietnam War in 1970 and took over from his father. Thousands of cats, dogs, birds and fish have come and gone since then— all except one, a hulking, scarred, snaggletoothed black pacu fish named Buttkiss, who has resided in a tank at the front of the store since John Lindsey was mayor.

of the elevated J train, which rattles past the rooftops of Richmond Hill, Cameo Pet Shop isn’t your run-of-the-mill animal emporium.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010 25 WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GOnews COPSON/PHOTOLIBRARYALANBYPHOTOGRAPH directions

In the picturesque hills overlooking Porto, Portugal, surrounded by centuries-old houses where the city’s namesake port wine is aged, The Yeatman Hotel opens this month. The boutique property will bathe you in luxury (in the form of a Caudalíe Vinothérapie spa) and, of course, serve you plenty of wine. Saúde! the-yeatman-hotel.com

Port Authority

SPOTLIGHTGOLF

JEWEL OF THE NILE // Cleopatra may have been the very fi rst “It” girl—she inspired a Shakespeare play, an Oscar-winning fi lm and generations of women to wear heavy black eyeliner. Perhaps important,moreshe was the last pharoah, so learn a little about her at “Cleopatra: The Search for the Last Queen of Egypt,” opening this month at the Franklin Institute in Philadelphia. fi.edu

JUNECALENDAR

news

AMERICAS THE BEAUTIFUL // Denver gets continental in July as the Biennial of the Americas celebration kicks off. Public art of all sorts is on the agenda all month, with musicians, dancers and artists from North and South America taking part. biennialoftheamericas.org

SHANGHAI CHIC // Shanghai is a big city that can seem overwhelming. Make the most of your time by staying in the center of everything at the Grand Mercure Shanghai Zhongya, opening this month. The sleek hotel features an on-site Turkish bath to help with that stress. accorhotels.com

5-27 SAN FRANCISCO // Ballet, bomba, bharatanatyam and a bevy of other bouncing beats will be performed at the Ethnic Dance Festival. worldartswest.org 18-20 PARIS // Ever wonder why people use their phones to videotape concerts, babies and everything else? They’re just hoping to make something worthy of the Pocket Film Festival. festivalpocketﬁlms.fr 20 DÜSSELDORF // Apparently, Düsseldorfers are avid cartwheelers. Find out who’s the best at this citywide pastime during the annual Cartwheel Championship. visitduesseldorf.de OPEN SEASON // ”If I had one more round to play, I would choose to play it at Pebble Beach.” So says Jack Nicklaus, who knows from rounds of golf. The hallowed seaside links at Pebble Beach—which host this month’s 2010 U.S. Open—have witnessed more than a few historic golf moments: the 1982 Tom Watson and Nicklaus showdown, for instance, and the 2000 U.S. Open, when Tiger Woods crushed the ﬁeld by 15 strokes. The Open only comes here every 10 or so years, but the course is open to the public, so you can play it anytime. pebblebeach.com

SCHEIDEMANN/NEWSCOM,ACHIMBYMUNA,RJOFCOURTESYMUMMERT,USGA/JOHNCOPYRIGHTPHOTOGRAPHSTOP:FROMCLOCKWISE

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CLEVELAND ROCKS!

SPANISH FLY Party hotspot Mallorca, Spain, will add to its portfolio of places to cut loose this month when the Mallorca Rocks Hotel opens. True to its name, the hotel will host plenty of rock stars, such as Calvin Harris (below), by the sweeping lagoonstyle pool. Pack your dancing shoes. ﬁestahotelgroup.com

JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM 28 24-29 LONDON // What if all the ﬁnest things in the world— vintage Bugattis, marblesize pink diamonds, Roman columns—were all in one place? Actually, they are, at the Masterpiece Fair London. Ready to splurge? masterpiecefair.com 26-27 WASHINGTON, D.C. // Bring a big appetite and plenty of paper towels to the National Capital Barbecue Battle. bbqdc.com 1-4JULY ROSWELL, NEW MEXICO // Looking for an out-of-thisworld vacation? Beam over to the Roswell UFO Festival. roswellufofestival.com 11-13 CHICAGO // Sing the blues, or at least hum along, at the Chicago Blues Festival, the world’s largest free blues fest. chicagobluesfestival.us

The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame is celebrating summer the only way it knows how—by rocking out with the legends. Each weekend will bring a “Meet the Curator” event, during which museum staff will give behind-thescenes tours and offer insider knowledge about amongJacksonSpringsteen,dedicatedexhibitstoBruceMichaelandLesPaul,others. rockhall.com

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FARM LIVING // Never mind who moved your cheese. Instead, learn to make your own in a workshop at Shelburne Farms, a Vermont environmental education center known for its glorious cheddar. The former country estate of Gilded Age ﬁnancier William Seward and his wife, Lila Vanderbilt Webb, the dazzling spread on the shore of Lake Champlain (with landscape design by Frederick Law Olmsted) also boasts a well-appointed inn, a restaurant and a working farm. Youngsters especially seem to enjoy frolicking with the free-range chickens. shelburnefarms.org

news SPOTLIGHTHOTEL

JUNECALENDAR

WHAT WAITINGYOUAREFOR? We know your time is valuable. That’s why U.S. Customs and Border Protection developed the Global Entry program for frequent international travelers. Global Entry is available at most major U.S. airports. As a pre-approved Global Entry member, when you arrive home in the U.S. after a trip abroad you just use the automated Global Entry kiosk and you’re on your way. No more paperwork. No more passport lines. Just easy, expedited U.S. entrance. For more information and to apply online, go to www.globalentry.gov. It’s that simple. So if you’re a frequent international flyer, what are you waiting for? Apply for Global Entry today! WWW.GLOBALENTRY.GOV global entry WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? With Global Entry, there’s no need to wait in the passport line.

Begin with a quick dash through the Melbourne Zoo (Elliot Ave.; zoo.org.au/melbournezoo), smack in the middle of the spectacular Royal Park. Catch a glimpse of some native Australian marsupials, then make like a kangaroo and hop away. ( 0:45 )

Curtin House (252 Swanston St.), once home to the Communist Party of Australia, is now a sixlevel vertical mall ﬁlled with bars, fashion boutiques and an open-air cinema. Steal a glance at the city below from the Rooftop Cinema before working your way down to specialist bookstore Metropolis, where you hunt for anything by Patrick White, the only Aussie ever to win a Nobel Prize for Literature. ( 3:30 )

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Sprint over to the National Sports Museum (Brunton Ave. in Yarra Park; nsm.org.au). After trying to wrap your head around cricket and Australian rules football, you swing by the “Game On” exhibit, the museum’s “hands-, feet- and bottoms-on” area, to try the games out yourself. As you emerge, you’re thankful for the long ﬂight, and long nap, ahead of you. ( 5:00 )

Stop at The Queen Victoria Market (Queen St. at Victoria St.; qvm.com.au), the largest open-air market in the Southern Hemisphere, to pick up a cork hat and sample the famous jam doughnuts at the American Doughnut Kitchen, a mobile carb factory that’s been churning out piping-hot jam-ﬁlled pastries for more than 50 years. ( 1:05 )

Jump off the tram at Victoria Street and dash into Carlton Gardens (Victoria St. at Rathdowne St.), a beloved World Heritage Site known for countless European and Australian trees. Look closely and you may spot a tawny frogmouth, the best-loved and best-named bird in Melbourne. ( 1:50 )

Wipe your mouth and walk two blocks to La Trobe Street to catch the historic City Circle Tram (There’s one every 12 minutes, and the ride is free.) Admire the 19th century architecture as you rattle past the handsome Princess Theatre, Parliament House and Old Treasury Building, three of the grandest structures in the land down under. ( 1:35 )

Hop back on the tram, head to Federation Square and pop into The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia (Russell St. at Flinders St.; ngv.vic.gov.au). Zip through the Indigenous Collection, which houses striking leather and textile works of Aboriginal art, some dating back as far as 20,000 years. On your way out, check the time on the ﬂoral clock in the Queen Victoria Gardens across the street. It’s getting late. ( 2:30 )

If you would like to wind down one of the world’s most beautiful drives—the famed stretch of blacktop known as Great Ocean Road—you’ll need to take to the sky ﬁrst. Count on United to get you to Melbourne ready to take it all in.

It’s time to eat, so you head down to the hot new underground restaurant Izakaya Den (114 Russell St.; izakayaden.com.au) for the sensational tuna tataki. Japan might be 4,500 miles away, but at this popular sushi and Sapporo joint, it seems just around the corner. ( 4:30 )

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ELECTRA’S TICINO 8D LOOKS LIKE THE PAST AND RIDES LIKE THE FUTURE.

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Ticino 8d / $800 / electrabike.com

The Ticino 8d bike, from California-based manufacturer Electra, may look like an antique cruiser, but with the exception of its charming design, this two-wheeler is on the cutting edge. Retro-style details such as tourist handlebars and hammered alloy fenders are engineered using modern technology and advanced materials, resulting in parts that look like classics but perform like modern marvels. And it’s comfortable, too. The leather handlebar grips and custom saddle seat make the Ticino the closest modern civilization has gotten to a La-Z-Boy on two wheels.

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Sit back. Relax. And enjoy triple miles. Visit united.com/hem or call 800-298-6873 to apply or learn more about our new family of cards. Offer Code: CQCP Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Annual credit card fee applies. United Mileage Plus Visa credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. See www.united.com/hem for pricing and rewards details. Print Date: 12/09 PH_31803 Introducing the Mileage Plus ® Select Visa ®. The only card that offers you triple miles on United purchases— and a whole lot more.

35 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2 010 goods 1. LIKE THE WIND The next time some wise guy tells you to go fly a kite, grab a classic Hata and do as you’re told. / $19 / 2.intothewind.comDARKMATTER Designed with the help of Olympian Shaun shreds.asshadesOakley’sWhite,HolbrookareascoolthesnowWhite / $120 / 3.oakley.comCARRYON Made from willow seagrass and wood chips, this picnic basket is packed drinkingeverythingwithfromglasses to a cheese knife. B.Y.O. brie. / $130 / picnicbeyond.com4.DOWNUNDERThis handsome little package unfolds into a haveblanket.waterproofpillowy,picnicGoahead,aseat. / $20 / 5.picnicworld.netHAVEABALLThe official match ball for the 2010 World Cup, the Jabulani sports 11 colors to forwhoandindigenous11SouthcommemorateAfrica’slanguages,11tribesthe11playerstakethefieldeachCupsquad. / $150 / shopadidas.com 5 3 4 2 1

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THE SELF-HELP MASTER FINDS INNER PEACE IN GOA, INDIA. whereabouts

The Places I Go: Deepak Chopra

“Goa is one of my favorite places to visit. Part of it is still frozen in the sixties, so it’s the hippies and the clubs and the Beatles playing, which is what I grew up with. It’s also very historical. Vasco da Gama went there on a Portuguese expedition in 1498, and the body of St. Francis Xavier was entombed there. So it’s this very surreal mix of time periods, cultures and religions, accented by the fragrance of the atmosphere. It just feels very “Wheneverexotic.Igo,I stay at the Taj Fort Aguada Beach Resort. It’s a beautiful five-star hotel that they update every few years. I love it for its majesty. It also serves the best Goa fish curry, which is the local delicacy. If you drive along the shore, you can find all kinds of little stands serving the same dish, but I find the Taj’s to be the best.” Hear Deepak Chopra narrate his books The Seven Spiritual Laws of Success and Creating Your World the Way You Really Want It to Be, among others, as part of June is Audiobook Month at audiobookcommunity.com

Once in a while, something remarkable happens in cancer care. One of those moments is now a reality. One of the most comprehensive and patient friendly cancer facilities in the country is here. Smilow Cancer Hospital at Yale-New Haven. 500,000 square feet of advanced treatment facilities. Twelve teams of specialists, each nationally recognized for their pioneering work in specific forms of cancer. The development of an extensive range of novel drugs and therapies, delivered directly to the bedside. And a rooftop healing garden where a cancer patient can refocus on life. For thousands of patients and their families, cancer care is not only infinitely more promising, it’s infinitely easier to attain.

The future of cancer care has opened its doors.

Yale-New Haven Hospital is the primary teaching hospital of Yale School of Medicine and is ranked among the nation’s best hospitals by U.S.News & World Report. Smilow Cancer Hospital at Yale-New Haven works in partnership with Yale Cancer Center – A National Cancer Institute-designated Comprehensive Cancer Center.

THERE ARE SUNNY DAYS, and then there are sunny days in L.A. The light here— golden and chock-full of good vibes—is best experienced in a convertible. A fast one. With a great sound system. Something like the 2010 BMW M3, a class leader with impeccable lines and a very rowdy inner life.

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THIS M3 CONVERTIBLE MAY BE THE MOST SEDUCTIVE EVER MADE. BY Sunny Side Up wheels

Over the course of a day spent darting from Beverly Hills to a backyard barbecue in Silverlake to a Fatburger in West Hollywood and along some of the most beloved canyon roads in the world, I aim to find out. Alas, the M3 has the mileage of a bygone time (16 mpg combined), so I start off at dawn with an injection of karma at a power-yoga class on the beach in Santa Monica. Afterward I sip water from a coconut, open the hardtop roof, climb down into the low-slung cockpit and push the “engine start” button. The V-8 roars to life. I parade past a long line of parked Priuses on Main Street, and heads turn. The M3 is a vision of beauty with the growl of a guard dog and the grace of a yogi. As I pick my way across town, through West Hollywood and Beverly Hills, the warm air dries the perspiration in my hair. Eventually I guide the M3 onto the I-10 to Topanga Canyon and find one of the sweetest strips of tarmac ever laid: Mulholland Drive. With the majestic sun setting over the Pacific, I rocket into winding blind curves and drops in elevation. The wide tires hoover the asphalt in the turns. The brakes are 14-inch dinner platters. The air is rich with eucalyptus and lavender blossoms—the whole canyon smells like an ayurvedic spa— and as I stop at the intersection of the Pacific Coast Highway, a Beach Boys song comes on the radio. Brian Wilson is singing about his little deuce coupe; he thinks that “if I had a set of wings man I know she could fly.” I know exactly what he means. Los Angeles never felt so good.

YEAR’S BMW

I parade past a line of Priuses in Santa Monica, and heads turn. The M3 is a vision of beauty, with the growl of a guard dog and the grace of a yogi.

The setup includes a nav system that gives you several route options and integrates real-time traffic reports— critical information in the stop-and-go world of L.A. driving. Could this be the ultimate SoCal ride?

38 JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM

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The Bimmer is a car with movie star good looks, but its real talent lies under the hood, where it hides a highly immodest turbo-charged 4.0-liter V-8 that churns out 414 horsepower and 295 foot pounds of torque—enough to pin you to the expertly crafted seat and keep you there in a warm embrace.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010 41culture ART & COMMERCE style

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This spring W Hotels, never the sort of company to shy away from the latest and greatest, hired stylist Amanda Ross, once an editor at Harper’s Bazaar, to deepen its relationships with fashion designers and bring her brand of grown-up cool to the hotels’ boutiques. It’s not the W’s virgin foray into fashion (Michael Kors and Gwen Stefani have both designed uniforms for staff at the properties), but Ross’ appointment as Global Fashion Director is an industry ﬁrst. “Hotels are this third space, not quite public and not quite private,” says Ross, who’s equally at home in the front row at Paris Fashion Week and combing through Barcelona’s vintage stores. “Everything, everyone looks a little better there. Or wants to.”

IT HARDLY MATTERS if you’re in Hong Kong or Hollywood—you step into the dramatic light of a chic hotel lobby these days, and you can’t help but notice that everyone there, bellhops included, looks ready to walk the runway. That’s because for the last decade or so fashion houses have been getting in on the hotel trade and outﬁtting hostelries down to the last doorknob. Book a swank room in, say, Milan, and there’s a good chance that every gummy worm in the minifridge has been “curated” by a fashion visionary. Maison Moschino opened in Milan in March, followed by the April debut of the Armani Hotel in Dubai. And this month, Diane von Fürstenberg–designed rooms become available at Claridge’s in London. The line between hospitality and high fashion is becoming decidedly blurred.

Staying in StyleHOTELSARE MOVING BEYOND THE BATHROBE AND UPPING THE FASHION QUOTIENT. BY SARAH HORNE

A mean fastball and a surgeon’s skill put Adam back in the game. Shahab Abdessalam, M.D., and Adam Folsom Visit ChildrensOmaha.org 1.800.833.3100.

15 1 2 3 654 3 6 4 5 ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHLOÉ FLEURY 1

43 CULTURE | JUNE 2010 WINTER/GETTYKEVIN(BONO),MAZURKEVIN(EDGE),KANE/WIREIMAGEKEVIN(CROSLEY),STAWIARZ/WIREIMAGEASTRIDBYPHOTOGRAPHS (FROG)SOUDERS/CORBISSTORY),(TOYDISNEY/PIXAR(MCLACHLAN),SONY(CLAYTON), arts The Big Ten WHAT TO WATCH, READ AND LISTEN TO THIS MONTH CROSLEYSLOANE DOES IT AGAIN • The wry essayist behind I Was Told There’d Be Cake is back with How Did You Get This Number?. More good news for her fans: HBO has optioned the rights to Cake, so maybe soon you can have your Crosley and watch it, too. JUNE 15 TICKET TO RIDE

SARAH SINGS • Seven years after her last album, Sarah McLachlan and her soft soprano are back The Laws of Illusion. The rst single, “One Dream,” is a breathy, inspirational ballad that served as the theme for the 2010 Winter Olympics. A British Columbia native, McLachlan should have no JUNE

JUNE 3

JUNE 1 BEAR FACTS • The Rise and Fall of Bear Stearns is an inside look at the ﬁnance giant’s disintegration. Gruff, witty and outspoken, former CEO Alan “Ace” Greenberg, with the help of coauthor Mark Singer, tells a harrowing cautionary tale without letting his outsize persona get in the way.

JUNE 18

U2 HITS THE ROAD • U2 earned the title “world’s biggest band” in the mid-’80s. Nearly three decades later, the label still fits. This month, the band continues its epic 360˚ Tour. Grab a ticket and maybe you’ll fi find what you’re looking for.

• A charming look at the so-called Golden Age of Travel as seen through hundreds of advertisements, Taschen’s massive compendium, 20th Century Travel: 100 Years of Globe-Trotting Ads, is also sure to become the most popular thing on many a coffee table.

JUNE 1 CAN TOY STORY THREEPEAT? • The beloved franchise that started it all for Pixar returns this month with Woody, Buzz and Co. ﬁnding themselves in a daycare center where they encounter a gaggle of new toys and an army of untamed toddlers. Bet on a rollicking affair that’s as sweet as it is silly.

“Everything comes to fruition in its right time,” he says on the phone from Paris a few days before the ceremony. “I’ve done a body of work, and sometimes that gets noticed early, sometimes late, sometimes when you’re alive and sometimes after you’re gone.”

THE REGGAE MASTER RETURNS.

In March, Jimmy Cliff earned some overdue recognition when he was inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame.

IT’S A WILD WORLD • Filmed over 3,000 days on all seven continents, Life, out on DVD this month, is a riveting 11-part documentary from the BBC that takes viewers on a journey from the murky sea to the open African savannah to witness the natural world in stunning high-deﬁnition. Narrator Oprah Winfrey tags along for the ride.

• Jazz great Herbie Hancock turned 70 this year, but he’s not even close to slowing down. For his new album, The Imagine Project, he trekked to Mumbai, São Paulo and Paris to collaborate with

JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM 44

Jimmy Cliff BEFORE THERE WAS Bob Marley, there was Jimmy Cliff. While Marley would eventually become reggae’s best-known ambassador— and the world’s best-loved musician—Cliff paved the way in the mid-’60s with a string of hits, including the album and ﬁlm The Harder They Come, and steadily churned them out well into the ’90s. Bob Dylan said that Cliff’s “Vietnam” was the best protest song he had ever heard, and artists from Bruce Springsteen to Cher to Willie Nelson recorded such Cliff compositions as “Many Rivers to Cross” and “Sittin’ in Limbo.”

Cliff is following this moment in the spotlight with the forthcoming Existence, his ﬁrst new album since 2004, and a series of concerts in the U.S. and Canada, including a stop at the Bonnaroo festival in June (see “Boom Town,” page 76). “I’m coming back to tour after ﬁve years because I have something new I want to say,” he said. “Lots of people are hopeless and despondent, and I want to motivate, stimulate and encourage people in this age to appreciate their lives.”

THE CONTINUESLEGEND

JUNE 1 THERE WILL BE BLOOD • Watch your neck: Vampires are out in full force this month. With bloodsuckers once again invading the big screen (The Twilight Saga: Eclipse), the small screen (True Blood) and the bookshelf (The Short Second Life of Bree Tanner), it’s a good time to invest in some garlic.

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NAME • HOWARD SCHIFFER, 60 MISSION • Reduce child mortality worldwide by supplying infants and children under ﬁve with vital nutrients, especially vitamin A. Entrepreneur Howard Schiffer was running a natural products business in 1994 when an earthquake hit Southern California. After receiving a call from a relief agency seeking vitamins for displaced families, Schiffer coordinated a truckload. Vitamin Angels was born three weeks later. Since then, “it’s been like a rocket ship,” says Schiffer. Last year, Vitamin Angels reached more than 11 million children in 40 countries. This year, Schiffer aims to help 20 million worldwide.

MOTIVATION • Natural health has always been a priority for Schiffer. Amazed at how quickly Vitamin Angels' reach expanded, he stepped away from his commercial business in 2005 to devote himself to his new calling. “It costs about twenty-ﬁve cents to provide a child with two high doses of immune-boosting vitamin A per year,” he says. “This can increase that child’s survival rate by twentythree percent. There’s no better investment you can make.”

IN HIS SPARE TIME • He’s been rebuilding his home. “It burned to the ground in a wildﬁre after I returned from a visit to a refugee camp in Kenya, where people had been living under tarps for over a year due to war. Relatively speaking, my family and I were okay.” For more information, go to vitaminangels.org.

00 VITAMIN ANGELS FOUNDER HOWARD SCHIFFER IS OUT TO MAKE SURE CHILDREN AROUND THE WORLD GET THE NUTRIENTS THEY NEED. BY JAYME OTTO // PHOTOGRAPH BY BRIGITTE SIRE The Health Inspector

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HAVING STEADILY FALLEN DEEPER IN LOVE WITH SOCCER, ONE AMERICAN FUTBOL FANATIC PROMISED HIMSELF HE’D GO TO SOUTH AFRICA FOR THE WORLD CUP. SOMETHING CAME

THEN

UP… BY JOSH DEAN // ILLUSTRATION BY BARRY BLITT Kicking andsportsScreaming 49 CULTURE | JUNE 2010

I’D IMAGINED PLENTY of scenarios over the years in which I might find myself on page one of The New York Times. As a kid, it seemed likely that I’d go pro in any number of sports, if not also join the CIA and overthrow dictators in the summer. As an adult, and a journalist, I’d have settled for a byline. But I certainly never imagined it like this. I was walking down the street in Cologne, Germany, one steamy morning in June 2006, when my cell phone rang. It was a friend, calling from the U.S. “Were you at the U.S.Czech game yesterday?” he asked, meaning the opening match of the 2006 World Cup for the national teams of the United States and the Czech Republic. Yes, I “Weresaid.you wearing an American flag?” he asked. Yes, I answered, sheepishly this time. Uh-oh.“I’m pretty sure you’re on the cover of The New York Times.” Indeed I was. I found the photo a few minutes later in an internet café full of sweaty backpackers. There, on the home page of the Times website, was what seemed to be an unnecessarily gigantic photo of a clutch of American soccer fans looking utterly demoralized in the seconds after the Czech Republic scored a goal to go up 3-0 and dash America’s World Cup dream barely an hour after it had begun. And in that clutch, nearly in the center (not the focus of the photo—that would be a young girl with her face painted, standing up, mouth agape), prominently pictured, was me, in a U.S. jersey, wearing the stars and stripes as a cape. I called my girlfriend to confirm that this photo wasn’t just on the website, that it had also appeared in full color, above the fold, on A1 of one of the world’s most famous newspapers. I believe her exact words were: “Oh my god.” And then: “Are you seriously

JUST wearing the American flag as a cape? What a dork.” She had a point. But such is the magic of the World Cup that it elicits in rational humans (or, at least, usually rational humans) a passion they wouldn’t normally express in public. I am a devoted fan of many sports teams. I have gnawed sofa cushions and punched walls over the New York Mets and hugged strangers and sung “Take Me Home, Country Roads” in the streets after West Virginia University football games. But nothing brings out such irrational fervor as the World Cup—and my team isn’t even that good. It hardly matters. No sporting occasion comes close to this once-every-four-years bacchanal of athletic fanaticism and patriotic fervor. Equal parts sport and celebration, it unites nations and puts wars on Volumeshold.have been written about the geopolitical significance of the cup, of the metaphors observed when countries face off on the pitch (that’s soccer for “field”). Countries around the world quite literally stop in their tracks as nearly every citizen of the 32 nations participating—plus a huge percentage of those that aren’t—stops to watch the game and share in a kind of global adoration for the world’s most popular sport (with the huge exception of the U.S., where it gets about as much respect as jai alai).

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Over the 10 days I spent in Germany, I rarely passed a home, restaurant or bar that didn’t have its TV tuned to soccer. Bakeries, cafés and clothing boutiques had ﬂat-screens wedged into their shop windows, and owners, employees and patrons could be found gathered in the streets out front as commerce ground to a halt.

AND I MEANT IT. I fully expected to be in South Africa for the World Cup this month until something slightly more important popped up: my ﬁrst child. At least the boy had the decency to schedule his arrival for late April, a good month before the U.S.’s ﬁrst game—a titanic opener versus England—meaning that I’ve got 40 or 50 days to adapt to sleeplessness and accumulate enough diaper changing points to sneak out to pubs for midafternoon matches.

The World Cup bounces on to Brazil in 2014, and this time I mean it: I’ll be there, maybe even with a new conscript in Sam’s Army, as the U.S. team supporters are known. My son will be four, which is plenty old enough to travel, plenty old enough to love the game, and plenty old enough to chant Ole! Ole! Ole! Ole! in tune.

THE TICKET

TICKET

Watching the 2006 tournament in Europe might have been my most intense World Cup experience, but it was hardly my first. When the Cup came to the U.S. in 1994, I was an intern working for a suburban paper in Washington, D.C. One afternoon, I went out to RFK Stadium and saw a Saudi player nicknamed the Desert Pelé score the Cup’s most fantastic goal in a stadium full of orange-clad Holland fans, who left happy when the Netherlands won anyway. I watched the U.S. shock the world and beat Colombia from an Irish pub on Capitol Hill and ducked out of a family reunion in North Carolina to see Brazil top Italy in penalty kicks. The 1998 edition was in France and was a debacle for the U.S. But I was up with the sun every morning, watching as our national team barely showed up, losing three times in three games, including a humiliating loss to Iran. In 2002, Korea and Japan cohosted, meaning that I had to rise at 4 a.m. to watch games before stumbling off to work. That was just fine, as the U.S. had its most impressive showing yet, advancing to the quarterfinals. I caught the first half of the team’s final match on the radio on a bus in the Italian countryside during a business trip; I sprinted into a village

1. South Africa 2. United States 3. United Kingdom 4. Australia 5. Mexico 6. Germany 12 3 564

I mean, seriously, no one’s going to laugh at a four-year-old in a cape.

Brooklyn-based writer JOSH DEAN is currently shopping for a ﬂag large enough to wear as a sarong.

BOARDING PASS Sit back, relax and let United get you to Joburg, the cultural center of South Africa and host city of the 2010 World Cup. Soccer may not be huge in the U.S., but Americans are buying more tickets to this World Cup than people from any country except the host. SALES, BY NATION: sports bar for most of the second half, in time to see the U.S. outplay, and nearly beat, Germany, the eventual runner-up. I don’t speak Italian and had no idea what the announcers were saying during the postgame recap, but the back-pats from the Italians around me told me that everyone was impressed with America’s showing. Now that was something.Butitwas on the streets of Cologne that I really fell in love. It hardly mattered who was playing. We chugged beers with Swedes in a tent city outside the Sweden-England match, chanted alongside hundreds of Angolans in an open-air bar lit only by a large screen showing that country’s match with Portugal (its former colonizer, by the way) and climbed lightposts alongside lager-sodden locals in the early hours of the morning after Germany scored in the last minute to beat its neighbor and longtime rival Poland. Flying home, I promised myself that I’d never miss another Cup.

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Disney World likes to portray itself as a place where “magic happens.” But for most adult guests at the Magic Kingdom, Animal Kingdom and the rest of the 47-square-mile resort complex in Orlando, the real magic has less to do with the animatronic robots AT THE DISNEY INSTITUTE, CORPORATE EXECS STUDY THE HOUSE OF MOUSE’S PRACTICAL MAGIC.

Scott Milligan is not your typical Disney World tour guide. The impressively cordial ﬁftysomething former human resources manager takes corporate clients on tours of the park’s “living laboratory” as a facilitator for the Disney Institute, an offshoot of the company’s in-house training program, Disney University, which was highlighted in Tom Peters’ 1982 business classic In Search of Excellence In the practical sense, Milligan’s role is to help outside businesses—ranging from restaurant chains and hospitals to banks and airlines, including United— introduce some of the company’s innovations to their own operational cultures. The Tourism Business Council of South Africa retained Disney to help prepare more than 250,000 tourism workers, many of them new to the industry, for this month’s FIFA World Cup soccer tournament.

“THESE TUNNELS only look like they’re underground,” Scott Milligan tells me with glee as we descend a wide concrete staircase. “They’re actually the ﬁrst story of a building that stretches underneath the entire park.” He stops and makes eye contact, as if he’s just revealed the secret of the mummy’s tomb. “What visitors see is really the second story of a two-story building. The grade around the park was raised to cover it up.” My bright-eyed, barrel-chested guide smiles as the staircase opens into a tremendous tunnel system bustling with janitors, food servers and fully costumed characters, all capable of popping up in almost any location in the park to restock a restaurant, handle a problem or step onstage. “This is a culture by design, not a culture by default.”

BY DOUGLAS RUSHKOFF ILLUSTRATIONS BY ROSS MACDONALD

The Keys to theindustryKingdom52 JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM

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JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM 54 in Pirates of the Caribbean than the park’s staggeringly efficient operations and dedicated staff. However one might feel about Disney’s cultural offerings— from Mickey to Miley—the company knows how to keep the monorails running on time. So while the institute offers a range of business courses, lectures and consulting arrangements, the most compelling offering is the chance to peer behind the Disney illusion. The experience is a bit like watching Penn and Teller reveal the secrets behind famous tricks and coming away amazed anyway. Somehow, the transparency only makes the feats look that much cleverer. “The attention to detail backstage is as important as the attention to detail onstage,” Milligan says as he walks me through the tunnels. Called “utilidors,” there are 1.5 miles of them—all with pipes, ﬁber optic cables and God-knowswhat snaking overhead. “A lot of our clients say, ‘Well, it’s easy for you guys— everything is magic at Disney!’ But it takes a lot of hard work. We keep our challenges backstage so you don’t have to see them.” It’s an eye-opening tour. From computerized “hubs” where employees can get their assignments to boxes in which leaders can place notes praising employees for moments of outstanding service, the whole place is bevy of ideas andForefficiencies.instance,Disney’s frontline workers—cast members, as they’re called—all wear name tags identifying their hometowns. “Once we added that, guest perception of cast member friendliness went up appreciably,” Milligan says. And the bit of personal information creates an opening for conversation, which can be just the thing to help a line move faster—or seem to. And about those lines (one of the biggest challenges for any theme park): Disney’s key strategy has been to provide guests with accurate estimates of how long they might wait. The method for doing so is a model of simplicity. Every so often, a cast member hands a time-stamped tag to a guest entering the line; when he or she gets on, another cast member notes how much time has elapsed. The number goes on a sign at the entrance. Not only is it an effective means of calming frayed nerves and preventing logjams, but most guests, especially the younger ones, seem thrilled by the chance to help out.

One of Disney’s great strengths is the way it challenges and empowers employees to cook up such ideas. There’s even an in-house newsletter, Eyes and Ears, that documents ideas from employees that have been implemented successfully. For example, a few years ago guests began complaining that they couldn’t ﬁt their rented strollers onto the little train that goes around the park. So the company tasked its employees with ﬁnding a solution. Redesigns of the trains or the strollers were rejected as too expensive, but then one employee hit upon a brainstorm: Let guests turn their strollers in as they board the train and pick up new ones as they disembark at another station. Removable stroller name cards were created, and the problem was solved.

Most of this practical, operational magic was developed long after the company’s famous founder left the scene in the 1960s. By the 1990s, Disney representatives admit, the parks were experiencing something of a crisis. The fruit of Walt’s original genius was going a bit stale, and a host of competitors had begun developing themed experiences of their own to rivalTheDisney’s.company hired a seasoned businessman, Judson Green, to reinvigorate the parks. Green ﬁgured the best way to do that was to employ some very basic, commonsense procedures to allow cast members to feel more personal responsibility for the guest Anotherexperience.keytoDisney’s success is the “quality service matrix,” which prioritizes customer service in the following order: safety, courtesy, show and efficiency. Out of context, that may sound as ho-hum as most other management schemes. But Milligan, who experienced Disney’s frontline operations himself, serving as a safari driver at the Animal Kingdom for four years, sees it differently, and he invites me to try out the Kilimanjaro Safari as a way of bringing the point home. We watch our young driver navigate the acres of re-created African range and pass a few grazing beasts. “See the way she’s slowing down now?” Milligan explains as our driver turns a corner through a muddy puddle. “That keeps the rhino from charging the vehicle.”

The experience of the Disney Institute is a bit like watching Penn and Teller reveal the secrets behind their tricks and still coming away amazed.

MilliganCharging?remembers a close call he had a decade or so ago, when the driver before him had accidentally irritated one of the massive animals and it was Milligan’s turn to ferry his passengers through the rhino’s area.

“When the rhino started to come at us, I had to think fast about exactly what to do,” he explains as our van rounds the very same curve. “I mean, the van is made to withstand just such an impact, but someone could have thought it was a Disney illusion and hung their kid over the side to take a picture—‘Look at baby with the rhino at Animal Kingdom!’”

DOUGLAS RUSHKOFF , author of Life, Inc.: How the World Became a Corporation and How to Take It Back, says the magic of Disney lies in its hotel check-in process

industry JUNE CROSSWORD ANSWERS

55 So Milligan sacriﬁced “efficiency” and “show” for the top priority, “safety.” His voice speeds up as he reaches the critical moment of decision. “I said, ‘This is not part of the show. Please remain seated in the vehicle.’”

For Milligan, breaking character was a very big deal, a decision he might not have made without the matrix ﬁrmly in his head. That such reminders are necessary is testament to the devotion to the “show”—the Disney experience— most cast members feel. Indeed, the company may be unmatched in the world for its ability to engender such dedication. In one of the hotel daycare centers, I saw two thirtysomething employees tearing up at the climax of a Jonas Brothers movie about a sleepaway camp talent show—a movie they had seen dozens of times before. I spoke with a young cast member playing Cinderella for a “character lunch,” and she told me she’d known since she was a toddler that being a cast member was her destiny. And a monorail attendant showed me the mouse ears she had tattooed to her ankle in an effort to prove her dedication to the boss. Of course, she keeps the tattoo covered when at work, in accordance with company policy.

kikkomanusa.com Discover the fifth taste There are sweet, salty, bitter, sour, and then there is Umami, the fifth taste. This unique taste is a natural flavor enhancer that brings depth and balance to everything you create. Rich with Umami, the Kikkoman family of products offers endless possibilities and inspiration to awaken and excite your taste buds. Visit kikkomanusa.com to learn more about the fifth taste, find original recipes and expand your culinary horizons. © 2010 INC.USA,SALESKIKKOMAN

LAST JANUARY, I LOST MY ABILITY TO TASTE. That would be bad news for anyone. It’s even worse if, like me, you make a living writing about food. I had just undergone endonasal surgery, which tweaked the nerves that helped me detect flavors, and the doctors predicted that my oh-so-discerning palate would not return for a month. Ironically, friends kept showing up with edible get-well gifts. During my recovery, I found I couldn’t taste carby snacks—the donuts and cupcakes didn’t do much for me. But after a few weeks, more complicated flavors did begin to register: pizza with parmesan cheese; shiitake mushroom and bacon quiche; soy-marinated cod. Gradually, I developed a craving for this profoundly flavorful stuff. There was a certain hard-to-define quality linking these dishes— not quite saltiness but something more nuanced, a deep savoriness. It turns out this wasn’t a gustatory illusion. With my surgery dampening the stronger taste sensations (sweet, bitter), I had finally discovered the “fifth taste”: umami. The trendy word, which roughly translates from Japanese as “deliciousness,” wasn’t altogether new to me. I regularly watched the Food Network and couldn’t escape its onslaught of Kikkoman soy sauce ads hard-selling the term. There was even a new restaurant in my neighborhood called Umami Burger, and—as it happened—its special contained

Flavor of the Month food & drink

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BY ADAM BAER ILLUSTRATIONS BY RODRIGO CORRAL AND SABINE DOWEK

UMAMI, A DECIDEDLY ENIGMATIC QUALITY FOUND IN CERTAIN FOODS, IS THE HOTTEST THING IN COOKING. BUT IS THIS TRENDY TASTE SENSATION THE REAL DEAL?

“China’s best chefs still swear by MSG,” says Ming Tsai, host of PBS’s Simply Ming, who prefers to create his deeply savory dishes naturally, with wheat-free soy sauce and sake lees, for example. “There are still three white powders in the Chinese kitchen: salt, sugar and MSG.”

None of which would be news to the late Kikunae Ikeda, who invented the term umami a century ago and gave the world its chemical clone, monosodium glutamate (MSG), which in the days before “wholesome” and “organic” were culinary watchwords was a common ingredient in many takeout items, canned soups and other packaged foods.

In a stock pot, add the soy sauce to a quart of water and bring to a boil. Parboil the broccolini until tender-crisp, about three minutes, and shock in ice bath. Dry pot. Add extra virgin olive oil on medium-high heat. Add garlic and stir until golden brown. Remove garlic and drain, leaving a little oil in pot. Sauté the shiitake. Add back garlic with chili ﬂake, preserved lemon and blanched broccolini. Heat through. Check seasoning and serve. For added umami, sprinkle with CopyrightParmigiano-Reggiano.2009MingTsai 2 cups sliced shiitake 1/2 teaspoon Korean chili ﬂake (or red chili) 1/3 cup preservedchoppedlemon

Makes four servings

LEMON BROCCOLINI-SHIITAKE SAUTÉ WITH GARLIC CHIPS

1/4 cup plus 1 tbsp. Wanjashan organic soy sauce

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Indeed, many of the world’s cuisines highlight foods rich in umami—truffles, soy sauce, tomatoes and aged cheese, for example—all of which just happen to show high levels of a naturally occurring chemical, glutamic acid.

Cimarusti, a bearded, easygoing New Jersey native with long curly hair, soon appears in a chef’s coat and black Japanese cook’s cap. He greets a number of the students, some of Providence’s most devoted regulars—including a well-to-do married couple in their forties, a conservatively dressed older couple and a hip thirtysomething winery owner who pulled up in a late-model Porsche—and explains that we’ll be focusing on dashi, a master broth made from kombu (edible kelp high in free glutamic acid) and dried, fermented bonito ﬂakes (high in ribonucleotides). Dashi, he explains, cooking on a high table with a mirror above the back of his head, is the basis of Japanese cuisine, the potion that prompted Ikeda to create the word “umami.”

We’re ready to taste.

Eager to learn—and, well, taste—more, one Sunday morning I show up at Providence, a restaurant on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles, along with 30 other enthusiastic foodies here for a 90-minute demonstration and tasting of umami-rich dishes conducted by chef-owner Michael Cimarusti. Walking into the contemporary space, we’re presented with our own red Providence notebooks, Providence recipes and umami research printouts from something called the Umami Information Center.

Though the additive has long been associated with adverse affects, including headaches, researchers have yet to prove a deﬁnitive link. “Most likely the majority of people who claim they have ‘Chinese food syndrome’ just ate a lot of heavy food high in sodium,” says Tsai, who nonetheless avoids the chemical. “That would give anyone a headache.”

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58 shiitake, parmesan, tomato and fancy ketchup.

“What makes it subtle, however, is that it’s not particularly appealing alone, like sweetness in candy. People usually want umami in the context of foods that contain other qualities.”

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2 bunches broccolini, broken into 2-inch pieces 1/3 cup thinly sliced garlic 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

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“It’s really important to get the highest-quality soy sauce you can find,” Cimarusti says, as we each pick up small plastic cups filled with light and dark soy and toss them back, sampling the compounds like wine. Cimarusti holds up a real piece of high-end petrified bonito (or katsuobushi) food & drink

Umami, which has arguably existed as long as humans and food, is having its media moment. Last year, food scientists at Philadelphia’s Monell Chemical Senses Center announced new research showing that humans are hardwired to detect this ﬁfth taste and probably to crave it.

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It turns out most everyone has functional receptors that recognize glutamate. What’s more, when combined with the acids (or, more speciﬁcally, ribonucleotides) isonine and guanosine—found in fermented foods, from yeast-based bread to wine—“umami synergism” occurs, ﬂooding the mouth with an amped-up savoriness. “If I put free glutamate in water, you would taste it, and you wouldn’t say it’s salty, sweet, sour or bitter,” Monell researcher Paul Breslin explains.

WE LOVE HOW EASY IT IS

59 and then a large piece of kombu. “Do you see how when the light hits it, it has that rich green color?” he asks. “That’s what you want.”

Tsai calls this cheating, of course, and he has a solution. “If I had to make a natural umami dust, I would take soy powder— maybe even some really ﬁne-ground Parmigiano-Reggiano and bonito ﬂake, which has a nice smokiness,” he says, adding that Chinese chefs have their own name for umami, one that means “lingering savoriness”: wei dao. I’m back to tasting 100 percent now, but I have new problem: I’m looking for umami everywhere. In everything. All the time. Note to anyone inclined to invite me to a barbecue: If I ask for shiitake mushrooms and parmesan on my burger, you’ll understand. Ketchup is no longer enough.

“You need to steep your kombu for an hour at a hundred and forty degrees for the best dashi,” Cimarusti says. “After a lot of research, Murata found he could extract the maximum amount of glutamic acid by working at this slow pace.”

We nod dutifully, taking careful notes, as Cimarusti, who grew up eating his share of red sauce, moves on to umami’s importance in other cuisines. “The dishes that are most iconic, even in our culture, are very rich in umami,” he says. “A great example is a BLT or spaghetti and meatballs—that’s like an umami bomb.” On the way home, inspired to experiment in the kitchen, I hit a Japanese grocery store. Unable to ﬁnd the precise ingredients I need to make a true high-end dashi, I pick up some MSG in a salt shaker. The next day I cook a homemade chicken mushroom soup with a little soy sauce for some friends. They lap it up—umami victory. Then we all add a touch of the MSG, and the ﬂavors really do seem to deepen.

Soon, we’re sampling bonito flake, fresh dashi and fantastically delicate sous-vide experiments with sea bass and mushrooms. The chef fields a few questions: What’s the point of using a light soy sauce? “It’s better for dishes that require salt.” How would you describe umami? “A ‘mouthfilling’ deliciousness.” I brined cod at home last night and it tasted weird—why? “I’m not sure...” Cimarusti is just back from Japan, where he worked with Yoshihiro Murata, a three-Michelin-star superchef who owns Kyoto’s famous Kikunoi restaurant. Murata is highly admired for his dashi, which is made with soft spring water.

L.A.-based writer and avid cook ADAM BAER vows never to use MSG again—unless, of course, he’s in a rush. “The dishes that are most iconic in our culture are very rich in umami,” says chef Michael Cimarusti. “A BLT is like an umami bomb.”

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010 artifactLongIsland’s most well-to-do beach town, East Hampton, isn’t bashful about its ritziness. Go to its Main Street to outﬁt yourself with an Hermès scarf8062 THE REBIRTH OF COOL Sophiatown, South Africa, has a musical renaissance. By Steve Knopper 70 THE HEMI Q&A Betty White dishes on Hot topics. By David Carr 74 BOOM TOWN How Bonnaroo transformed a tiny Tennessee town By Mya Frazier 80 THREE PERFECT DAYS: LONG ISLAND Heading to the Hamptons—and beyond By Sarah Horne FEATURES 61 P. PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAIRE BENOIST

THE

REBIRTH OF COOL SOPHIATOWN, THE SWINGING BIRTHPLACE OF SOUTH AFRICA’S SIGNATURE TOWNSHIP SOUND, WAS SILENCED UNDER APARTHEID RULE. SIXTEEN YEARS AFTER NELSON MANDELA’S HISTORIC ELECTION, THE BEAT GOES ON. BY STEVE KNOPPER

THE HORNS OF AFRICA In 1954, Sophiatown native Hugh Masekela plays a trumpet he received as a gift from Louis Armstrong.

63 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010

We arrive at Christ the King, a wide, short building of red bricks and shingles. Inside the sanctuary, the clergymen and choir stand in front of a mural depicting Sophiatown history—Zulu tribesmen in masks, 1950s gangsters in suits, a modern kid in a backward cap. The congregation has swelled to some 150 people. It’s hard for a visitor to tell today, but Sophiatown is the historic epicenter of African jazz, the Soweto sound and the “township jive” that came to America in Paul Simon’s 1986 album Graceland and the performances of Ladysmith Black Mambazo, and which continues to reverberate in the music of indie-pop darlings Vampire Weekend. It’s some of the most joyous and soulful music in the world. But nearly all evidence of its origins here have been erased. In 1955, during the early years of apartheid, the government began displacing the residents of Sophiatown, bulldozing their homes, and rebuilding the town as a whites-only enclave. Where music once spilled noisily into the streets from homes, churches, bars and schools, a suburban quiet settled in. Now Sophiatown is free again, and former residents have returned to live here, but it’s still strangely quiet. I came to ﬁnd out where the music went.

PICTURE A SATURDAY EVENING IN SOPHIATOWN IN THE EARLY 1950S: Some kids are playing pennywhistles on street corners. Others are hiding tubs of umqombothi, home-brewed beer made of sorghum and mystery ingredients, under grass and sticks, just in case the cops

IMAGESGETTY PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARC SHOUL

JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM 64

DANIEL MELETSKE, A DAPPER 72-YEAR-OLD GENTLEMAN IN A PLAID SUIT COAT, has just handed me a gigantic palm frond, which I’m holding as we walk arm in arm. It’s Palm Sunday. He leads me down the street with a crowd of 40 or so other celebrants to an outdoor service in an empty lot.

We’re a few blocks from the Christ the King Church in Sophiatown, a suburb northwest of Johannesburg. A minister says a few words about the glory of God and then, on this cloudless South African morning, the singing begins. I’m no hymn expert, but this is some of the most beautiful music I’ve ever heard. An elderly woman thumps out a slow beat on a hymnal. Meletske and the other men call out the deep verses; the women respond with high harmonies. It sounds like American gospel music, but there is an extra ingredient I can’t place, a rhythmic, distinctly African quality that frames the ﬂoating voices. Then the group, holding the tune, becomes a procession, walking slowly along the streets of Sophiatown to the church. Still carrying the frond, I fumble for the iPhone in my pocket and, trying not to distract Meletske, manage to record for 13 minutes.

CHOIR SERVICE Opposite, inside Christ the King Church; Newtownbottomclockwiseabove,fromleft,amural; the church exterior; the chorus singing; Jonas Gwangwa playing piano at home

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65 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010 show up. It’s a rough neighborhood, to be sure, known for its dandyish gangsters, dressed smartly in fedoras, pin-striped suits and two-tone Florsheim shoes imported from the U.S. Stompie Manana is waiting at the Odin Cinema to see the Kirk Douglas flick Young Man with a Horn about the American jazz cornetist Bix Beiderbecke—which will inspire Manana to pick up the trumpet himself and make it big. People are filing into the 39 Steps, a shebeen, or social house, on Good Street, where one of South Africa’s first music stars, Dolly Rathebe, is belting out a few songs. Back then, music was all over Johannesburg, especially the townships. But Sophiatown was the place to be. African-inflected jazz was everywhere, and clubs were crowded with soon-to-be-discovered African jazz and jive greats. A beloved singer named Ma Joel performed with a percussionist on the street for pennies. Jazz record collectors were everywhere, and a young Dorothy Masuka would sit for hours in her friend Kwembo’s house, listening to Ella Fitzgerald and Sophie Tucker records. Weddings and funerals took over the town for hours, with hired brass bands playing dirges as though it were Bourbon Street. By the late 1950s, young Johannesburg talents such as Manana, fellow trumpeter Hugh Masekela and trombonist Jonas Gwangwa were appearing at the Modern Jazz Club on Sundays before movies at the Odin.

“It was a din,” recalls longtime resident Victor Ntechane, 76, with a smile. “It was only when you went elsewhere that you realized how quiet it was compared to Sophiatown.” The way some describe Sophiatown in those days, it was like New Orleans in the ’30s, Harlem in the ’40s and Memphis in the ’50s, all rolled into one. Founded in 1897 when a property owner named Tobiansky created his own suburb and named it after his wife, Sophia, the town was home to both blacks and whites, all of them poor. By the 1940s, writes author Don Mattera in his 1989 book Sophiatown: Coming of Age in South Africa, “it was inhabited by an estimated 200,000 people of different ethnic backgrounds who lived tightly knit, mixing cultures, traditions and superstitions in a manner perhaps unique in Southern Africa. Every conceivable space was occupied by a living thing—man or animal.” To outsiders, Sophiatown wasn’t romantic at all, just a crowded town full of brick-andiron shacks. “Some of the best-dressed people lived there, and some of the most educated people lived there,” says trumpeter Masekela, now an international star. “But it was still run-down.”

WE’RE EMMANUEL,LOST. A TAXI DRIVER, FLAGS DOWN a sunburned, white-haired man walking on the side of the road Does he know how to get to the Trevor Huddleston Memorial Centre in Sophiatown? The man looks confused. “Oh!” he says suddenly. “You mean Triomf.” Triomf. In Afrikaans, it means “triumph.” It’s the name

THE JAZZ SINGER Simphiwe Dana with Marcus Wyatt’s band at Sophiatown Bar Lounge in Newtown; opposite, the wall of the Trevor Huddleston Memorial Centre 67 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010

“During that time, there was the curfew law,” she recalls. “Blacks were not supposed to be in town after nine at night.

VARIOUS ARTISTS, TOWNSHIP JAZZ N’ JIVE (1997) // This is a great sampling of early African jazz, including Andrew John Huddleston’s Jazz Band’s rock-solid, briskly melodic, American-inﬂuenced “Ndenzeni Na?” (featuring young horn players Hugh Masekela and Jonas Gwangwa).

VARIOUS ARTISTS, NEXT STOP…SOWETO (2010) // Focusing on mbaqanga jams from the 1970s, “Next Stop” is a worthy successor to the 20-year-old “Indestructible Beat of Soweto” series, some of which is out of print. Check out how African jazz from the 1950s morphed into the funk workouts of Zed Nkabinde and Mahlathini and the Queens.

THE BEST OF MIRIAM MAKEBA: THE EARLY YEARS (2002) // Before the late Makeba became an international superstar, railing against apartheid everywhere she went, she sang with a variety of South African groups, from the Skylarks to the Manhattan Brothers. Her “Sophiatown Is Gone” is heartbreaking.

JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM 68 the apartheid government gave to Sophiatown after the bulldozing ended in 1962. Promising safe, affordable housing, the government brought in whites to live literally atop the rubble of the old town. “It’s the worst name ever!” declares singer Abigail Kubeka, who spent much of her childhood in Sophiatown. “Triumph over people—the lives people had built here.”

AFRICAN BEATS A PRIMER ON THE SOPHIATOWN SOUND

At 70 years old, Kubeka, with dangly earrings, a black fedora, a tiger-print dress and a commanding presence, is still a star in South Africa. She’s sitting at a table in the Huddleston Centre, a tidy brick bungalow named after a renowned white bishop who campaigned actively against apartheid. The center is part meeting place for artists and musicians and part museum, its walls covered with photos of the jazz singers, politicians (including Nelson Mandela) and journalists who once congregated here. In 2006, the post-apartheid government changed the suburb’s name from Triomf back to Sophiatown.Thechange was symbolic, but hugely important for the musicians who hung around Sophiatown back in the day, including Kubeka, who as a teenager regularly confronted discrimination as she sang professionally throughout Johannesburg (and who eventually would become one of Miriam Makeba’s Skylarks).

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HAVING A BALL Faces of the Sophiatownnew

Rolling Stone contributing editor STEVE KNOPPER has traveled everywhere from Nashville and Harlem to the Mississippi Delta, but he’s never come across a place like Sophiatown.

This goes on until 2:30 a.m., by which point we are all drenched with sweat. Afterward, Mdu asks if I’ve found what I’m looking for. And while I’d actually pictured something more like a Hugh Masekela trumpet solo, the answer is deﬁnitely yes.

69 So the police would wait for you outside. You’d leave the club, they’d take you to the police station, then you’d sleep over and go to court the following morning and pay the fine. You’d go back again to the club and do the same thing. It was a way of fighting the regime. We fought the system through our music—and through our persistence.” In the late ’50s and ’60s, as former Sophiatown residents dispersed into Meadowlands and other parts of Soweto, the African jazz of Masekela and Makeba drifted there too, evolving into a funkier, more rigidly rhythmic style known as mbaqanga, or township jive. Paul Simon tapped into this style on Graceland, collaborating with South African musicians such as Ladysmith Black Mambazo. From there, just as American funk morphed into hip-hop, township jive went electronic, first as bubblegum, then as kwaito One Saturday evening, Mduduzi Thusi, or Mdu, a 26-yearold Huddleston Centre tour guide who lives in Sophiatown, agrees to offer me a glimpse of how this music has evolved. We begin in Newtown, a rising Joburg neighborhood in which hip bars have opened in abandoned factories. An upscale restaurant here is actually called Sophiatown, and a wall mural inside depicts kids playing horns and pennywhistles. Outside, a plaque enshrines local jazz heroes such as Gwangwa and Masekela. As it happens, there’s no action in Newtown tonight—the Bassline club, which draws live rock and reggae bands, is closed till Monday, and the venerable Market Theatre is showing a play. So Mdu and his friend, Mpho, who drives a car with doors so rusted he describes it as a “moving sculpture,” take me to Soweto. This township is home to almost 900,000 residents, mostly black, who settled here during the apartheid era, when the government seized Johannesburg and the suburbs for themselves. We stop briefly at Vilakazi Street, where Nelson Mandela lived in a tiny bungalow in the ’60s (it’s now a museum). Just down the street is Desmond Tutu’s former home. We pass shacks and shanties, house parties spilling into the streets and street-corner food joints, eventually arriving at News Café, a dance club in a strip mall on the edge of the township. Some 150 people are here, drinking and dancing to the thumping house music of regional acts like Durban’s Finest and Black Coffee. I am the only white person here, and one of the few older than 25. Mdu and his friends grab a table, then haul me to the dance floor. Soon Mdu is clapping in my face, like a dance instructor, and a dozen clubgoers are demonstrating impossibly twisty steps and insisting I not deviate from “the beat! The beat!”

71 Betty White, beloved star of The Mary Tyler Moore Show and The Golden Girls, follows up her hosting turn on Saturday Night Live with a new series, Hot in Cleveland. Not bad for 88. THE HEMI Q&A BY DAVID CARR ILLUSTRATION BY JEFFREY DECOSTER 2010JUNE

HEMISPHERES: Early in your career, you shared in the syndication rights to your shows. Shrewd move.

HEMISPHERES: Meaning you’re friendly and you smell nice?

WHITE: I’m panic stricken, if you must know.

WHITE: Why, thank you. I’ll admit it’s a thrill, and I never take it for granted. I’ve been in this wonderful business for sixty-two years, and the fact that I’m still working at eightyeight years old boggles my mind.

Betty White actually has limited culinary skills. “Meatloaf and spaghetti, but that’s about it,” she admits. “I’m hopeless.” But she has cooked up several iconic television characters, including the clueless Rose Nylund on The Golden Girls. She’s won four Emmys, received a lifetime achievement award from the Screen Actors Guild this past year and done myriad guest appearances, including spots on Ally McBeal, Boston Legal, The Practice and, of course, The Simpsons. White turned 88 this year and doesn’t mind saying so. “Why kid? All these people have grown up with me on TV, so it doesn’t do any good to shave a few years off,” she says. But she certainly hasn’t slowed down. When we talked, she was busy getting ready for a new gig, hosting Saturday Night Live. What’s a nice lady like this doing on one of the most savage comedy shows on television? The most popular ad aired during the latest Super Bowl was a Snickers spot in which she’s shown (via the glories of special effects) playing football and being tackled in a mud puddle. White—actually portraying a young man rendered geriatric without a Snickers—comes back to the huddle panting, and the quarterback suggests she’s playing like an old lady. Hands on her knees, she sighs, “C’mon, man, you’ve been riding me all day.” “You’ve been playing like Betty White out there,” he taunts, to which she ﬁres back, “That’s not what your girlfriend said.”

White spoke to Hemispheres by phone from her Los Angeles home between gigs.

WHITE: I actually did a couple of television shows called The Betty White Show. In fact, I was going to do another one a while back, and I wanted to call it Yet Another Betty White Show, but they wouldn’t let me. I guess we’ve all had enough “Betty White.”

WHITE: I don’t know where this came from, because I am such a klutz when it comes to technology. I don’t even have email.

The Betty White Show?

HEMISPHERES: Maybe those six Emmys of yours had something to do with it.

WHITE: Bless you. HEMISPHERES: Are you all ﬁred up to say, “Live, from New York, it’s Saturday night!” ?

The commercial inspired the formation of an ad hoc committee on Facebook, demanding that the It lady of the moment host SNL. After half a million folks joined the cause, White was booked. And this month she returns to the form that made her a legend on TV Land’s new sitcom, Hot in Cleveland. The girl works.

HEMISPHERES: You have a new show premiering this month called Hot in Cleveland. Why not just call it

HEMISPHERES: There’s no such thing as too much Betty.

HEMISPHERES: Desi Arnaz decided early on that he would pay for taping live shows if he got to keep the tapes. The networks reasoned that no one would ever want to watch the same show twice.

WHITE: That turned out pretty well for him.

TWO BETTYS, BORN A YEAR APART IN THE 1920S, became famous for their prowess as homemakers: Betty Crocker, a ﬁctitious ﬁgure created by General Mills in 1921, put a face on bags of cake mix. Betty White, born in 1922, helped create Sue Ann Nivens, the happy, hormonally charged homemaker on the classic sitcom The Mary Tyler Moore Show. It’s hard to say which Betty is more famous at this point.

HEMISPHERES: Half a million people on Facebook certainly seemed to like the idea.

WHITE: [Laughs] It’s just a different attitude. I watch Saturday Night Live and enjoy it, but I never thought I’d be hosting it. If I don’t do well, they’ll say, “Why did we do that?”

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HEMISPHERES: After six decades in television, you still get nervous? WHITE: Saturday Night Live is just so New York, and I’m not really very New York.

WHITE: Remember, when I started in television, television was just starting itself. We were sort of making it up as we went along, and at that point we didn’t know any better. It worked out very well, but now it is so much harder because so many people are involved, and it all ends up being part of a big negotiation.

HEMISPHERES: My, that’s sort of spicy. And yet, you told Diane Sawyer that you laid down the law with SNL: “No nudity.”

“If you don’t like something, then go in another direction, but cool the complaints.”

HEMISPHERES: You’ve been called the First Lady of Game Shows for your many appearances as a guest star on Password, What’s My Line? and Match Game. Got a favorite?

WHITE: I love working. Love it. I go in prepared to enjoy it instead of going in looking for the negatives. I always crack up at the people who start the conversation with, “You know what I hate?” If you don’t like something, then go in another direction, but cool the complaints.

WHITE: I shouldn’t say this… HEMISPHERES: But now you must. WHITE: I don’t watch much television. I don’t have time. I haven’t had a day off in three years. I have a lovely weekend place in Carmel, and I haven’t been there in a long, long time. My friends go, but I never seem to ﬁnd the time.

DAVID CARR writes about media and entertainment for The New York Times. Like Mary Richards, he got his start in journalism in Minneapolis. 73

WHITE HEAT // The actress in a headshot from the mid-’50s; The Mary Tyler Moore Show; The Golden Girls; and, opposite, Password.

HEMISPHERES: You outlasted ﬁve different hosts on that show and married Allen Ludden, who died in 1981. You’ve never remarried.

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HEMISPHERES: What does bother you?

WHITE: Of course, I have to be prejudiced in favor of Password, because I fell in love with the man in the middle.

HEMISPHERES: What do you watch on TV?

WHITE: We met when he was the host on Password, and then he moved to New York. I wasted a year I could have been with him, because he kept asking me to move and I refused. I ﬁnally relented, and we did a summer stock show together called Critic’s Choice. There was a scene at the end where he would put his arms around me and kiss me. Well, I must say that last scene sometimes would last a little longer

WHITE: He is the love of my life. When you’ve had the best, who needs the rest? He’s still around, trust me.

HEMISPHERES: You clearly love what you do, but don’t you get a little tired of working all the time? At what point in your career are you going to have enough laurels to rest on?

WHITE: Unkindness or cruelty of any kind to anyone or any animal. The ones who mistreat animals mistreat each other as well. Right now, I’m sitting on the couch with Pontiac, a ﬁve-year-old golden retriever. He has his head on my lap.

WHITE: I never said I was good person.

HEMIQ&A

HEMISPHERES: Well, somebody’s certainly watching out for you. How did you end up together?

HEMISPHERES : You’ve done a great deal of charitable work on behalf of animals.

HEMISPHERES: Sounds like you were a bit harder to get than your Mary Tyler Moore character, Sue Ann Nivens.

WHITE: I turned down nudity back when it was even a possibility. It’s like humor. I think it’s what you don’t show that makes it interesting.

WHITE: Thanks for mentioning that. The Morris Animal Foundation is a health organization that helped develop the feline leukemia vaccine and the spiral virus vaccine for dogs, and we’re also involved in protecting the mountain gorillas. I’ve been working with them for forty-ﬁve years.

WHITE: Well, she did get around, but she was also the happy homemaker who could cook anything and clean anything. They used to ask Allen in interviews, “How close to Sue Ann is Betty?” He’d say, “They’re really the same person except Betty can’t cook!” On the show, Sue Ann had a little aff air with Cloris Leachman’s character’s husband, and she always wondered why he came home with his clothes cleaner than when he went to work.

HEMISPHERES: Good lord, Betty, where are your priorities?

BOOM BOOM EVERY YEAR SINCE 2002, 80,000 FUN SEEKERS HAVE DESCENDED ON TINY MANCHESTER, TENNESSEE, FOR THE BONNAROO MUSIC & ARTS FESTIVAL. FOR THE STRUGGLING TOWNSFOLK, THE FOUR-DAY EVENT IS MUCH MORE THAN A PARTY...IT’S A LIVING. BY MYA FRAZIER

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The Bonnaroo Music & Arts Festival isn’t Woodstock, though if you squint, it’s pretty close: an endless sea of people on 700 acres of fertile farmland where dairy cows once grazed and neat lines of soybean and corn grew tall in the peaty Tennessee soil. Here at Bonnaroo, on the outskirts of a town called Manchester, everything comes in abundance: tie-dyed T-shirts, sandals, feel-good vendors (Ben & Jerry’s, homemade vegetarian burritos), beach balls, tents and—most important—spectators, who number nearly 80,000. Even the indefatigable Bruce Springsteen and the E Street Band take it to the next level. A Telecaster slung behind his back, the Boss pauses in the middle of “Working on a Dream” and clutches the mic.

“We didn’t come down to the beautiful hills of Tennessee just to rock the house,” Springsteen says, waving his arms and pontiﬁcating like an old-time preacher. “We came down here tonight because we want to build a house, right here in thisIt’sﬁeld.”moments like these—and there are always plenty of moments at Bonnaroo—that explain why Rolling Stone has named it the best festival in the country and why, year after year, Bonnaroo draws acts as eclectic as Willie Nelson, Phish, Snoop Dogg, Erykah Badu and a kaleidoscope of others. (This year’s headliners include the Dave Matthews Band, Stevie Wonder, Jay-Z and a stand-up performance by ConanSpringsteenO’Brien.)was speaking metaphorically about building a house, but the fact is that the four-day Bonnaroo festival has built many a house in Manchester. Since it came into being just eight years ago, the festival has transformed the lives of the locals and infused new energy into a town struggling to rebuild a decimated manufacturing base. As the Boss says, “When it comes to luck, you make your own.”

THE DREAMING FESTIVAL, AUSTRALIA JUNE 11–14 This nation’s largest indigenous arts festival offers everything from feasts to campfire stories. thedreamingfestival.com GEORGIA PEACH FESTIVAL JUNE 11–19 Nowhere else will you find fireworks, jazz, the Miss Georgia Peach Pageant and the world’s largest peach cobbler. worldslargestpeachcobbler.com

WORLD PARTY A SELECTION OF THE PLANET’S MANY SUMMER FESTIVALS ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI

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NOT THAT HE EVER HOLDS BACK, but the Boss is in rare form. His energy is unconstrained, his give and take with the audience an endless loop of goodwill. Maybe that’s what happens when you’re Bruce Springsteen and you’re playing in the warm summer air under a darkening sky in front of a delirious oversunned crowd, many of whom slept side by side on the same grassy ﬁelds the night before.

THE OFFSEASON IN MANCHESTER (POP. 9,442) is somewhat more subdued. The tie-dyed T-shirts are gone, mostly, though the occasional camper has been known to hop the fence and pitch a tent on the festival site. It falls to Dale Green, Bonnaroo groundskeeper and a lifelong76 COUNTRY THROWDOWN NATIONWIDE THROUGH JUNE 20 A country music fest featuring Montgomery Gentry and Jamey Johnson countrythrowdown.com

FESTIVAL DEL SOLE NAPA VALLEY, CALIFORNIA JULY 16–25 Taste the world’s ﬁnest wine as some of the best chefs and classical musicians feed and entertain you. festivaldelsole.com STONEHENGE SUMMER SOLSTICE SALISBURY, ENGLAND JUNE 21 This free, one-nightonly event is a gathering of modern-day druids and Stonehenge lovers. It’s also the only time you can actually touch the monoliths. efestivals.co.uk

Yet Bonnaroo’s debut drew an estimated 70,000 people and, so it’s said, turned the entire state of Tennessee into a FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE PARIS JUNE 21 This citywide music fest features everything from classical quartets to reggae. fetedelamusique.culture.fr

GLASTONBURY FESTIVAL PILTON, ENGLAND JUNE 23–27 The granddaddy of European music festivals is celebrating its 40th anniversary with U2, Willie Nelson and more. glastonburyfestivals.co.uk CALCIO STORICO FLORENCE, ITALY JUNE 24–26 Soccer players take to the ﬁeld in 15th century garb. calciostorico.it GRANADA INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL OF DANCE AND MUSIC JUNE 24–JULY 14 Flamenco and more at churches, plazas and the Alhambra. granadafestival.org

VANS WARPED TOUR NATIONWIDE JUNE 25–AUGUST 15 A sometimes unholy marriage of hard rock and extreme sports. vanswarpedtour.com

CATCHING PHISH The Boss joins jam band Phish on the main stage for Bonnaroo’s closing night. 77

Manchester resident, to shoo them away. One spring afternoon, Green eases into the seat of his shiny new white Dodge pickup for a drive around the property. A steady drizzle falls on the windshield. As Bonnaroo’s only year-round groundskeeper, Green sees the site a way few others do: without the crowds. Today, hay fields stretch for what seems like miles, a budding green landscape broken only by the 20-foot-tall orange metal arch with “Bonnaroo” across the top and some white storage trailers parked haphazardly in lots. “I just love it out here right now,” says Green, who speaks in a low-pitched Tennessee drawl. “I come in, lock the gate, and I’m the only oneGreenhere.”navigates gravel roads and concrete bridges that make up the infrastructure of the festival grounds. He helped install much of it himself, including 58 power transformers on concrete slabs that symbolize the evolution of the Bonnaroo festival into something less temporary. When this year’s four-day party gets underway on June 10, the lights and food booths will hook right into the grid instead of gaspowered generators, which are noisy, disruptive and not exactlyUntil“green.”thefirst Bonnaroo festival in 2002, few Americans—in fact, few Tennesseans—had ever heard of Manchester. You might say that the festival put the city on the map, just like Woodstock, New York; Glastonbury, England; Montreux, Switzerland, and countless small towns around the world. If it is defined by anything, Manchester is defined by Bonnaroo. And like the original Woodstock (actually held in Bethel due to a last-minute snafu), the sleepy burg never really saw it coming. After all, in the history of a struggling small town’s economic development dreams, the one about the endless caravans of cars as far as the eye can see—like some eerie, real-life Field of Dreams—tends to get filed under “Keep Dreaming.”

“We’re in a society where people are always looking to move on to what’s next. But we’ve created something more intimate than any old stadium show.” That’s good news for local officials. Here’s why they’re so enthusiastic: In 2005, Bonnaroo fans spent $8.6 million in Coffee County, and festival organizers dropped another $1.9 million. The total economic impact was estimated at $14 million, including $4.3 million in personal income created locally that year. Bonnaroo isn’t just ﬁlling up Manchester’s rainy-day fund, it’s funneling much-needed cash into government coffers—$412,796 in one year alone—and creating an estimated 191 jobs. Green, the groundskeeper, never thought he would own a 105-acre farm before Bonnaroo. Last year, he bought one. Not to mention another bulldozer.

ROSKILDE FESTIVAL ROSKILDE, DENMARK JULY 1–4 This rock fest includes Gorillaz, Alice in Chains and Patti Smith. roskilde-festival.dk

Bonnaroo is the brainchild of Ashley Capps, CEO of Knoxville-based company AC Entertainment, who was inspired by both the massive European summer music festivals and by the feel-good vibe he experienced at Phish concerts. “Capps went after that subculture of fans clamoring for good music not being played by the mainstream,” says Jeff Cuellar, AC’s director of marketing. So far, Bonnaroo feels inextricably linked to the bucolic hills around Manchester. However, showbiz is a tough industry. Anything could happen.

LILITH FAIR NATIONWIDE 27–AUGUST 16 This venerable celebration of women in music returns with a topnotch lineup: Cat Power, Emmylou Harris, the Go-Go’s and more. lilithfair.com

“The festival will be in Manchester to stay as long as we keep pushing to develop the brand,” Cuellar says.

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temporary parking lot. And it keeps happening, year after year.

“I guess I’m the luckiest guy around,” Green says. The Manchester Area Chamber of Commerce, a four-room office in a two-story building, sits on a square in the center of town surrounded by law offices and the courthouse. Around the corner, there’s Baker

RHINE IN FLAMES RHINE VALLEY, GERMANY SATURDAYS, JULY-SEPTEMBER A stunning five-city fireworks festival with medieval scenery as a backdrop. rhein-in-flammen.com

JUNE 30–JULY 4 The largest food festival in the Midwest feeds three million people in Grant Park. explorechicago.org

ESSENCE MUSIC FESTIVAL NEW ORLEANS JULY 2–4 Janet Jackson, Gladys Knight, Alicia Keys and De La Soul are among dozens of soulful acts hitting NoLa. essencemusicfestival.com

“My father told me I lost my mind taking that job, that it won’t ever last,” Green recalls. “He said, ‘Bonnaroo will be out in two or three years and you won’t have nothing to do.’”

FUJI ROCK FESTIVAL NAEBA, JAPAN JULY 30–AUGUST 1 Party in the shadow of Mount Fuji with Vampire Weekend and Massive Attack, among others. smash-uk.com/frf10

Brothers Drugs, a ﬁxture since the 1920s, and an H&R Block. That’s about it. The retail heart of the city left long before Bonnaroo arrived, spreading along busy thoroughfares closer to the four highway exits.

Ask around, and it’s hard to find someone who doesn’t benefit from the festival. Sam McAllister owns a two-story house with a wraparound porch, and from his front door he can look down his long gravel driveway, which curves down an incline, and see the main road leading to Bonnaroo. McAllister sold most of his 700 acres to Bonnaroo in 2007 for $8.6 million—a better price than the goingGreenrate.himself had been toiling at his dad’s used car lot when he took a job at the festival. At the time, he figured come next summer those out-of-town music folks might be looking for a local with a good bulldozer.

Coffee County Mayor David Pennington and City of Manchester Mayor Betty Superstein sit side by side at the chamber’s long conference table, heaping praise on the festival and ticking off the list of economic benefits the area gets each year from Bonnaroo booths alone. Almost every nonprofit and local organization in Manchester runs one. The proceeds pay for everything from band uniforms to operating expenses for the youth baseball league. The chamber runs two booths and a general store that sells local tchotchkes. The annual take: At least $20,000. The Rotary parked cars for 48 hours and this year earned enough to build an amphitheater at the local recreation center. Another group earned $30,000 to pay for a skate park. The list goes on. “If they get it to where it’s permanent, where there are five shows a year, Bonnaroo is going to be our base to build an industry in this community,” Pennington says, “an industry based on music.”

Soon afterward, though, Green bought that farm of his. And he’s been busy ever since.

OREGON BREWERS FESTIVAL PORTLAND, OREGON JULY 22-25 The largest collection of craft beer purveyors gathers for a long, sudsy weekend. oregonbrewfest.com GILROY GARLIC FESTIVAL GILROY, CALIFORNIA JULY 23-25 Remember to bring mints to this culinary celebration of all things garlic. gilroygarlicfestival.com

MAINE LOBSTER FESTIVAL ROCKLAND, MAINE AUGUST 4–8 The air crackles with the sound of snapping shells at this annual fête of the world’s tastiest crustacean. mainelobsterfestival.com PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS D’ELEGANCE CARMEL, CALIFORNIA AUGUST 11-15 Nowhere will you ﬁnd a more rareﬁed roundup of antique cars and the people who love them. pebblebeachconcours.com

THUNDER ROCKFESTMOUNTAIN NORTH DAKOTA JULY 8–10 Check out your favorite classic rock acts, such as Asia and Survivor. rockdakota.com

CIRCUS MAXIMUS Clockwise from left, revelers in the camping area; the Which stage; and the main stage, above, called the What stage

MONTREUX JAZZ FESTIVAL MONTREUX, SWITZERLAND JULY 2–17 For two weeks, the silky sounds of jazz waft over the shores of Lake Geneva. montreuxjazz.com

Freelance writer MYA FRAZIER is hoping she can ﬁnd her Birkenstocks. 79

JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM 80 ENTER SANDMAN A Hampton’s beach

ISLANDLONG From the tony South Fork to its rustic northerly counterpart, Long Island is both a playpen for the well-to-do and a calming, cozy respite. // BY SARAH HORNEThree Perfect Days 83 DAY ONE Traipsing on Cooper’s Beach 84 DAY TWO Biking to Montauk 88 DAY THREE Exploring the North Fork

ILLUSTRATIONS BY ESRA CAROLINE RØISE (2)HOUSE1708OFCOURTESYGRANT,GORDONBYIMAGES,ELIZONDO/GETTYCOTOBYLEFT:FROMCLOCKWISEPAGE,THISSPREAD);(PREVIOUSGRANTGORDONBYPHOTOGRAPHS 83 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010

DAY ONE Awake in a cloud of exuberantly preppy Ralph Lauren sheets in a graceful fourposter bed at the 1708 House (1), an old-fashioned B&B on Southampton’s Main Street. At breakfast, in the antiques-crammed formal dining room, you remember your posture and steel yourself for a day among the Social Register set. Stepping out into the sunshine on Main Street, you take in the trapped-in-time village. At a distance, with its church steeple peeking through the trees, genteel Southampton could be any well-preserved town in America. But the yellow Lamborghini careering around the corner gives you a hint that all is not quite as it seems. You pop into BookHampton (2), where the local gentry pick up their highbrow poolside reading, then check out Hildreth’s Department Store (3), a rambling relic that’s been in business here since 1842. Forget penny candy—this is where young wives have bought their scallop-edged throw pillows and rattan porch furnishings for generations. Next, stop in the Parrish Art Museum (4), a 19th century gallery with an impressive collection of paintings by the likes of Willem de Kooning, Roy Lichtenstein and Chuck Close, before perusing Jobs Lane’s (5) various shrines to resort wear. At Vilebrequin, you check out the baby blue swim trunks dotted with Adirondack chairs; at Harmont & Blaine, it’s corduroy pants in magenta or jade. Finally Stubbs & Wootton lures you in with a pair of velvet slippers. At the register you ponder yacht names. What has come over you? In your new duds, you stand a bit taller as you swan into Silver’s (6) to lunch (it’s a verb here) and watch Manhattan’s business elite twitching under the handwritten “No cell phones” sign. You order the house specialty, a mammoth $17 BLT like none

THE TWIN FORKS OF LONG ISLAND ARE QUITE THE ODD COUPLE, jutting into the Atlantic Ocean like a crocodile about to swallow Shelter Island. The bottom jaw of the beast, the South Fork, is a playground for the international jet set, featuring swank resort villages such as East Hampton and Amagansett, and even the occasional polo ﬁeld. The North Fork, once a briny haven for shipbuilders and farmers, has recently come into its own as a winsome, off-the-beaten-path destination for foodies and oenophiles (with some good, salty dive bars thrownWhatin).they share are a regal, quiet beauty and a slant of light that can make even the most jaded world travelers stop in their tracks, awestruck. It’s no wonder, then, that hundreds upon hundreds of famous names have made the East End their summer home and that thousands still willingly brave the traffic on Route 27 on humid weekends.

1 SIMON DOONAN // CREATIVE DIRECTOR, BARNEYS // “The best hangout is Sunset Beach on Shelter Island. We tend to avoid the bacchanalian evening scene. Lunch is fab and great for celeb spotting.”

INN STYLE Above, the 1708 House; top, Cooper’s Beach; opposite, an East Hampton beach

DAY TWO Stretch your limbs and begin packing your bag. Before checking out, ask for a voucher for breakfast across the street at The Golden Pear Cafe (1), where you’ll order a bagel and coffee and check your portfolio in the New York papers.

you’ve ever tasted: thick slabs of warm Eli’s Tuscan bread, rashers of smoky bacon and a generous slathering of mayo. Your cardiologist might be alarmed, but not to worry: You’re about to offset the meal with a hearty walk. Hop in your Jaguar XK convertible and drive through the village’s Estate Section (privet hedge–lined streets packed with nine-bedroom “cottages”) before you find Gin Lane and the beach. Park near St. Andrew’s Dune Church (7), an old life-saving station turned seaside chapel, and doff your shoes before climbing up the slope to Cooper’s Beach (8). Walk east until the sunbathers thin out and it’s just you and the locals in their rolled-up khakis, letting their Labradors stretch their legs. Then find a spot in the dunes to take in the gnashing Atlantic. After walking until your calves begin to protest, you drive around Lake Agawam to Meadow Lane, top down, listening to the firm pop of the tennis balls at the prestigious Meadow Club (9) and peeking at the slivers of vast houses down ominously long private driveways. Then it’s back to your lodgings for a quick snooze before you freshen up for dinner at Red/Bar Brasserie (10), a Mediterranean eatery in a sprawling farmhouse that served as a speakeasy during Prohibition. In honor of the repeal, sidle up to the bar before positioning yourself at a corner table to watch the jovial crowd while you dine on Malpeque oysters and black truffle–stuffed chicken breast. It’s good to be king.

Back in the Jag, you turn up Hampton Road to Route 27 and head farther out on the South Fork, wending your way through the villages of Water Mill and Bridgehampton, where you follow in the footsteps of Truman Capote and Jackie Kennedy and stop for a caffeine top-up at the Bridgehampton Candy Kitchen (2). This is the Hamptons institution where CEOs connect with their inner ﬁve-year-olds, indulging in burgers and fries followed by double cones packed with mint chocolate chip ice cream.

3PD LONG ISLAND

GRASS IS ALWAYS GREENER A croquet tournament in Southampton; above, Nick & Toni’s GREY GARDENS // REMEMBERING A COUPLE OF CHARACTERS // In its glory days, Grey Gardens, a graceful 14-room estate in East Hampton, was home to the pedigreed Bouvier Beale clan (cousins of Jackie Kennedy). When Jackie’s aunt Edie Beale divorced in 1946, the mansion began its descent into disrepair. bohemianTogether,“BigEdie” and her eccentric daughter “Little Edie” lived a secluded life among 52 cats and the remnants of their once-grand life. In 1975, the women became the subject of the Maysles brothers’ haunting documentary Grey Gardens (later a Broadway show). Today, the estate is owned by Ben Bradlee and Sally Quinn. Wrangling an invite can be tough, but if you want to drive past for a peek, ask a local nicely where it is. 2

COLLECTIONEVERETTBY(3),GRANTGORDONBYJENNY/ALAMY,ANDREBYASSOCIATES,+CASEYBUTERA/MARGEAUGUSTUSCONWAY,STUARTBYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT:TOPFROMCLOCKWISE

Arriving in East Hampton, you check into The Hedges Inn (3), a polished inn

CHASING WINDMILLS Clockwise, a cyclist in Southampton; a inStreet;Hamptonwindmill;BridgehamptonEastMainJob’sLaneSouthampton

Yearning to see what the area was like before all the fuss, you head into Springs, the Hamptons’ more workaday, bohemian enclave north of Montauk Highway, and pull up at a simple farmhouse, the Pollock-Krasner House (4), where Jackson Pollack lived with his wife, Lee Krasner, from 1945 until he died in 1956. In the barn studio where he laid his canvases, trade your shoes for slippers and walk across the ﬂoorboards where his stray splatters have been lovingly preserved. Next, drive south to Amagansett for lunch at La Fondita (5), a surprisingly authentic roadside spot. Order the Baja-style ﬁsh tacos and grab a table outside, feeling lazy in the noontime sun. Yes, that is Gwyneth Paltrow in her yoga clothes at the next table. Act like a local—pretend you don’t notice.

MUSEUM,VANDERBILTOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT:BOTTOMFROMCLOCKWISE

IN THE ABSTRACT Above, the Pollock-Krasner House overlooking a pond where swans bask in the dappled light. Where Southampton looked quaint at ﬁrst glance, East Hampton is less coy about its ritziness. On its Main Street, there are ample opportunities to shop for diamonds, swathe yourself in Hermès scarves or drop thousands on alligator-skin bags.

GRANTGORDONBYLAKE,WHITNEYBY

GATSBY COUNTRY // THE NORTH SHORE’S GREAT ESTATES // Families of the Gilded Age chose to build their mammoth estates on Long Island’s North Shore. Several are now open to the public, giving a look into the curiously outsize lives of William K. Vanderbilt II, Teddy Roosevelt and the like. At Sagamore Hill, the Roosevelts’ retreat in Oyster Bay, walls are decked with buffalo heads and the great room is flanked by two tusks of an elephant once owned by the emperor of Abyssinia. At the Vanderbilt Museum in Centerport, there are shrunken heads from the South Pacific and jellyfish preserved in formaldehyde. Look out across the water from the veranda, and you'll swear you see the light twinkling at the end of Jay Gatsby’s dock.

At the nearby Amagansett Beach & Bicycle Co. (6), you leave the Jag behind. Rent a bike for the afternoon and grab a map before setting off down the Old Stone Highway to check out Napeague Bay (7). Have a look at the refurbished ﬁshing shacks on stilts at the end of Gerard Drive, then make your way back to the beach at Louse Point to watch the windsurfers skim across the bay. Now on a quest for land’s end, you pedal east on Montauk Highway, coasting through miles of Russian olive trees and scrub pine and into Montauk’s Hither Hills State Park. It’s a challenge to bike the salty old hills of salty old Montauk, but when you spot the 1797 Montauk Point Lighthouse (8) ahead, it all seems worth the effort. At nearby Money Ponds, where Captain Kidd is said to have buried untold treasures, you scan the horizon for pirates. Seeing none, you ride back at a leisurely pace, return your bike and head to the Hedges for a hot shower. Once you’ve recovered from your exertions, it’s on to Nick & Toni’s (9), an unassuming but luxe nightspot where Hollywood royals gather for well-executed Italian fare. Order the rich goat cheese risotto and the day’s catch served with vegetables from the North Fork’s Satur Farms. Air-kiss Steven Spielberg on your way out. OLIVIA CHANTECAILLE // CREATIVE CHANTECAILLEDIRECTOR,COSMETICS // “I love to do a beach picnic from Round Swamp Farm. They sell delicious local produce and prepared foods. My favorites are the chicken salad and the freshly baked pies.”

87 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010 STANKIEWICZSTEVEBYILLUTRATIONSMAP

THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) 1708 House 126 Main St., Southampton; Tel: 631-287-1708 (2) BookHampton 91 Main St., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-0270 (3) Hildreth’s Department Store 51-55 Main St., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-2300 (4) Parrish Art Museum 25 Jobs Ln., Shouthampton; Tel: 631-283-2118 (5) Jobs Lane (6) Silver’s 15 Main St., Southampton, Tel: 631-283-6443 (7) St. Andrew’s Dune Church 12 Gin Ln., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-3015 (8) Cooper’s Beach 268 Meadow Ln., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-0247 (9) Meadow Club 555 1st Neck Ln., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-0425 (10) Red/Bar Brasserie 210 Hampton Rd., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-0704 DAY TWO (1) The Golden Pear Cafe 99 Main St., Southampton; Tel: 631-283-8900 (2) Bridgehampton Candy Kitchen Sag Harbor Turnpike & Main St., Sag Harbor; Tel: 631-537-9885 (3) The Hedges Inn 74 James Ln., East Hampton; Tel: 631-324-7101 (4) Pollock-Krasner House 830 Springs Fireplace Rd., East Hampton; Tel: 516-324-4929 (5) La Fondita 74 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett; Tel: 631-267-8800 (6) Amagansett Beach & Bicycle 624 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett; Tel: 631-267-6325 (7) Napeague Bay (8) Montauk Point Lighthouse 2000 Montauk

Hwy., Montauk; Tel: 631-668-2544 (9) Nick & Toni’s 136 North Main St., East Hampton; Tel: 631-324-3550 DAY THREE (1) Sylvester & Co. 103 Main St., Sag Harbor; Tel: 631-725-5012 (2) The Sag Harbor Whaling Museum 200 Main St., Sag Harbor; Tel: 631-725-0770 (3) The American Hotel 25 Main St., Sag Harbor; Tel: 631-725-3535 (4) Shelter Island (5) Greenport (6) Coronet 2 Front St., Greenport; Tel: 631-477-9834 (7) North Fork Table & Inn 57225 Main Rd., Southold; Tel: 631-765-0177 0 4 Miles Long Island Sound Southold inset area Greenport Gardiners Bay Shelter Island Sag Harbor Bridgehampton EastSpringsHamptonAmagansett Montauk Great Plains Rd.HillSt. S.MainSt. Southampton 3 4 3 9 1 10 234 6 7 8 9 5 2 5 5 7 6 4 1 2 6 7 8 1

ROMAN ROTH // WINEMAKER, WOLFFER ESTATE VINEYARDS // “I enjoy playing golf at Montauk Downs, having lunch at the Beacon in Sag Harbor and watching Elvis movies at the Bay Street Theater.”

As the afternoon light begins to deepen, you head to the North Fork Table & Inn (7), your home for the night, and settle in for an evening in locavore heaven, thanks to the fertile farmlands of the area.

SARAH HORNE is never coy about her ritziness.

Boarding pass Whether you come to visit Fire Island GuardiaHamptons,SeashoreNationalortheyoucanﬂyUnitedtoLaorJFKandexperienceallthatLongIslandhastooffer

LAKEWHITNEYBY(2),DONNETARABYPHOTOGRAPHSBOTTOM:FROMCLOCKWISE

DAY THREE

SEE FOOD Clockwise from above, hamachi with ginger, shallots and micro cilantro from the North Fork Table & Inn; owners Claudia Fleming and Gerry Hayden; and Greenport Harbor 3

88 JUNE 2010 | UNITED.COM

Around you, elegant city dwellers and locals alike gather around the white linen–covered tables. There’s a happy, casual din as you tuck into your succulent orange-glazed Berkshire pork loin. Like Goldilocks, you think, you’ve gorged on the glamour of the South Fork, tasted the solitude of Shelter Island and have ﬁnally gotten it just right.

Open your eyes in your serene, white-on-gray room, relishing the priceless luxury of silence before you grudgingly pack your bags, take breakfast on the patio downstairs and hop in the car to make your way to Sag Harbor. Peek into Sylvester & Co. (1), the modern general store on Main Street, for a glimpse at decor that will look just as good in your pied-à-terre or suburban bungalow as it will in your beach house. Next stop is The Sag Harbor Whaling Museum (2), housed in a 19th century mansion that’s now part Masonic temple, part mariners’ time capsule. See whaling ship captains’ licenses signed by the likes of George Washington and Andrew Johnson juxtaposed with intricately carved bones and dastardly-looking spears. Portraits of prominent, long-dead townsfolk glare down at you indignantly as if to say, “Flip-flops? Really?” Walk down to the harbor, scanning for megayachts and pleasure craft disguised as lobster boats (codesigned by Billy Joel), before heading to The American Hotel (3) for lunch on the porch. If so inclined, toast your final moments on the South Fork with a glass of chardonnay from the Wolffer Estate Vineyards in nearby Sagaponack and some Gardiners Bay oysters. Seeking a more rustic setting, you head to the Shelter Island (4) car ferry and buy a oneway ticket. After the short trip across the bay in the breezy summer heat, you wind your Jag through the backroads of Shelter Island, where battered Volvos rule the road. For a complete retreat make your way to Ram Island, across a narrow causeway, and do some beach combing. In this secluded spot, it’s almost impossible to believe that the glitzy madness of the Hamptons is just a stone’s throw away. Continue your adventure by taking the North Ferry to Greenport (5) on the North Fork. You sense that you’re discovering an unspoiled, lovely little town as you wander Front Street, peeking into the window of the Coronet (6), a throwback diner that’s little changed since the 1940s. Take a detour to the miniscule hamlet of Orient (population: 709) for a real sense of how unchanged life on the North Fork can be. Flags flit langorously on the porches of whitewashed houses, while three old-timers sit about watching the game in the general store, impervious to your presence.

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SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA’S BEACHES, HOLLYWOOD’S GLAMOUR AND SAN FRANCISCO’S QUIRKY CHARM are part of a long-term fascination with the Golden State. Starting during the mid-19th century gold rush, people have been flocking here in search of a better life. And you know what? All those people just might be on to something. The weather is beautiful, the terrain is diverse and the cities are hives of culture. Beyond it’s surface charms, California is leading the charge in eco-friendliness. It’s per capita energy use is the lowest of any state, and it’s on the cutting edge of alternative energy research.

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CALIFORNIA SHOWCASE

It’s also a major player in movements such as eating locally sourced food—which also goes a long way toward making California home to some of the best restaurants in the United States. The Golden State is also an outdoorsman or woman’s paradise. It has mountains for skiing or hiking, deserts for trekking and miles after miles of beaches for swimming or just enjoying the sand and sun. Movie buffs will enjoy a different type of outdoor activity: celeb-spotting. All the big names in film make their homes in sunny California, and while it’s mostly because all of the big studios are in Hollywood, we also think it’s because they just love it so much. Who wouldn’t?

CALIFORNIA SHOWCASE I STAY & PLAY

MAGNIFICENTLY SITUATED OCEANFRONT, just minutes from Los Angeles, Terranea Resort is a quiet haven of luxury and relaxation. Close to city life, yet tucked away from the hustle and bustle, the resort is an ideal destination for intimate couples’ retreats or fun family getaways. Guests at Terranea have their choice in premium accommodations. 360 welcoming guest rooms are bathed in California sunshine and inviting coastal décor, each opening out to a private balcony. Those desiring more space and privacy can opt to stay in residential-style Villas, Bungalows and Casitas, featuring kitchens and a comfortable at-home feel. Seven ocean-view restaurants offer a variety of ﬂavors, including Catalina Kitchen for casual all-day dining, mar’sel, the signature restaurant, and Nelson’s, a cliff-side restaurant and bar. A number of smaller venues offer everything from sandwiches to gourmet coffee to poolside Terranea’ssnacks.102-acre

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SILVERADO, the only full service golf and spa resort in Napa and the Wine Country. Experience the history, natural beauty and exceptional service of this breathtaking destination. More than just a room. And, everything is right here! Golf, Spa, Full Service Conference Center, Tennis, Bocce, Biking and Fine Dining. Silverado has all you would expect from Napa’s premier resort. Plan a meeting, bring the family or just escape to enjoy the Silverado experience. Relax, Rejuvenate . . . and Stay Connected Silverado Resort 1600 Atlas Peak Rd. Napa, CA. 94558 (707) 257-0200 (800) www.silveradoresort.com532-0500

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TREAT YOURSELF to the only waterfront resort in Newport Beach–a sophisticated, yet relaxed Four-Diamond Resort with 160 spacious & plush guest rooms. Resort amenities feature: swimming pool/ whirlpool, workout facility and a full service Spa. Water activites and boat rentals are available at the resort’s own marina. Fine cusine at The First Cabin Restaurant, specializing in steaks & seafood, with extensive wine list and breathtaking bay views. Live music nightly at Duke’s Place lounge. Great value getaway packages! Bay Club & Resort 1221 West Coast Newport Beach, CA 92663 (949) www.balboabayclub.com645-5000

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milestone in a relatively quick time period is an indicator that buyers understand a great home at a great price,” Bosa CEO and President Nat Bosa said. All Bayside residences are backed by Bosa’s long-standing reputation in the San Diego marketplace. In addition to an array of five star amenities homes feature only the highest quality construction materials and finishes including gleaming marble stone and hardwood flooring, Italian-made Snaidero cabinetry, CaesarStone countertops, and Viking and Miele Baysideappliances.offersamultitude of two bedroom floor plans including three level town homes and expansive penthouses starting from the $500,000s.

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Welcome to Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards

NESTLED IN THE RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY IN SONOMA COUNTY, California Sonoma-Cutrer has long been known for its commitment to crafting exceptional wines, vintage after vintage. We invite you to experience our uncompromising dedication to excellence and look forward to creating lasting relationships with those who are passionate about ﬁne wine. Please stop by on your next trip to Sonoma County for a tour of our winery and tasting room. To make an appointment, please call 1.800.853.5311. If you cannot visit the winery, please visit us online at www.sonomacutrer.com or become an esteemed member of our Club Cutrer. Here you will have the opportunity to purchase wine directly from our winery and enjoy access to exclusive events and personal service from our Club Cutrer Concierge (www.clubcutrer.com)

CALIFORNIA SHOWCASE Do You Speak Sonoma?

SONOMA WINE COUNTRY HAS ITS OWN LINGO. Here’s a guide to start speaking like a local. Spa (v.) Actively seeking relaxation in more than 40 spas that offer pampering and healing powers to enhance your wine country vacation. Taste (v.) Synonym of “sip.” Try wine from more than 300 wineries that are open to the public. Pair it with amazing food from hundreds of Zagat- and Michelin-rated restaurants. Coast (v.) (n.) N: Not just any wine region, more than 55 miles of dramatic Paciﬁc coastline ensures perfect pinot pairs with delightful Dungeness crab. V: Meander through America’s premier wine, coast and spa destination. Discover (v.) Free visitor guide and wine map at www.sonomacounty.com. Text (v.) Receive wine country specials, text “wine” to 95495.

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GHIRARDELLI SQUARE, one of San Francisco’s most treasured icons, has been transformed into an urban enclave of specialty boutiques, ﬁne dining restaurants, premium wine tasting shops, and private residence club homes at Fairmont Heritage Place. Enjoy a famous Ghirardelli Ice Cream Sundae anytime - or for a real treat attend the 15th Annual Ghirardelli Square Chocolate Festival on September 11-12, 2010 to see the Earthquake Ice Cream Sundae Eating Contest and taste hundreds of chocolate creations. Ghirardelli Square 900 North Point Street (at Beach & Larkin) (415) www.FairmontHeritagePlace.com/Ghirardelliwww.GhirardelliSQ.com775-5500

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RECENTLY GIVEN 3 STARS for food by Michael Bauer of The San Francisco Chronicle, Emporio Rulli’s ﬂagship RISTOBAR boasts beautifully prepared Italian food that you won’t ﬁnd elsewhere, such as pasta with yellow pepper puree, chicken crusted in almonds, and cardoon custard. Their calling card is an extensive delicious dessert menu with more than a dozen choices each night. If you think that’s impressive, wait until you see the wine list…

Please also visit our Emporio Rulli coffee bars locations inside San Francisco International Airport: Terminal 3, Gate 79, and International Terminal North and South Food Courts & Lower Level Arrivals. 2300RISTOBARChestnut Street San Francisco’s Marina District (415) www.ristobarsf.com923-6464

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Michalopoulos Gallery

A UNIQUE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA CLASSIC CAR SHOWROOM with clients around the globe. A friendly atmosphere, knowledgeable people, and informative website attract seasoned collectors and first time buyers alike. We always stock a wide array of historically significant collector cars and classics. We cover all time periods from turn of the century, pre-war classics, 50’s and 60’s, and late model exotic and collectibles. We have been on the scene for ten years and have sold some of the finest collector cars to our ever widening family of clients. This gives us the opportunity to pull from some great collections around the world to source the best and rarest of automobiles. Our beautiful facility has an amazing gift shop, customer storage, and a large service area to maintain our clients’ wide variety of cars. Stop in or visit us at www.familyclassiccars.com

The Michalopoulos Octavia’s Haze Gallery is located in the heart of Hayes Valley in San Francisco and showcases the artwork of internationally renowned artist James Michalopoulos. To step inside the gallery is to be inspired by vibrant abstraction of the ﬁgurative. Dimensions are pushed and pulled in the same way that people move and breathe and color abounds. His paintings are a celebration and can be found in the keynote collections of celebrities, museums, and notable art patrons internationally. The gallery is located at 498 Hayes Street, San Francisco, CA 94102. www.michalopoulossf.com 415-255-6818.

The Michalopoulos Gallery 498 Hayes Street San Francisco, CA 94102 (415) www.michalopoulos.com255-6818

CALIFORNIA SHOWCASE Xanadu Gallery WHEN IN SAN FRANCISCO Xanadu Gallery located in the Frank Lloyd Wright building near Union Square should not be missed. There you will experience not only the world renowned building but exceptional works of art from Asia and Oceania. Xanadu Gallery specializes in Buddhist sculpture dating from the 2nd to the 18th century as well as unique jewelry that range from excavated Roman beads to turquoise and coral from the Himalayas. Xanadu Gallery LLC 140 Maiden Lane San Francisco, CA 94108 (415) 392-9999 The Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum ONE OF CALIFORNIA’S “MUST-SEE” ATTRACTIONS–guests tour through an actual Air Force One that served seven U.S. presidents, view an exact replica of the Oval Office, visit President Reagan’s Memorial Site and more. Two restaurants and breathtaking grounds round out your visit. Mention Hemispheres and receive 50% off through 11/1/10. The Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum 40 Presidential Drive Simi Valley, California 93065 www.reaganlibrary.com800-410-8354 How Fresh Is Your Olive Oil? WHEN IT COMES TO GREAT TASTE IN OLIVE OIL, FRESH IS BEST. You may be surprised to learn that some of the ﬁnest extra virgin olive oil is not imported, but made right here in the USA. Our authentic California Olive Ranchers use the most advanced methods to grow, harvest and press the ﬁnest, sustainably grown olives, at the peak of perfection. We press our olives within hours of harvest, to seal in our distinctive fresh taste. Discover delicious recipes at californiaoliveranch.com. Follow us on Facebook and Twitter. The New Taste of Fresh! California Olive Ranch 2675 Lone Tree Road Oroville, CA 95965 (916) www.californiaoliveranch.comcustserv@cal-olive.com.239-2999

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70 years, Fire Magic Premium Grills have set the standard for backyard grilling. With brilliant construction and unparalleled performance, features include Heat Zone Separators for diverse temperature zones, electronic push-to-light hot surface ignition that ignites in any weather, cast stainless steel burners for

Fire over exceptional executives have abundant resources at their ﬁngertips, from Nobel Laureate faculty and national laboratory research to the vibrant ecosystem of the Silicon Valley. These tools, engaged in one of the most dynamic learning environments in the world, combine to create a powerful experience business executives seeking a competitive edge.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010 101 SoRomantic OURGUESTSSELDOMLEAVETHEROOM. For more than 50 years, Tickle Pink Inn has graced this enchanting oceanside setting in Carmel Highlands, drawing travelers from around the world. From the moment you arrive, we give you every excuse to never leave the room, with a complimentary bottle of champagne, a host of amenities, and stunning ocean views from 35 luxuriously appointed rooms or suites. Tickle Pink Inn • 155 Highland Drive Carmel, CA 93923 • Reservations: 888.373.6906 www.ticklepinkinn.com Made California!In Visit Us Online At MadeInCA.com Gift Baskets & Boxes, Sauces, Jams, Olive Oils, Sourdough, Spices, Salsas, Marinades, Chocolates, Bath & Body and Much More... Gourmet Foods & Gifts Over 800 Different Products Send gifts to family, friends or co-workers Made In California Toll Free 866-479-8934 Visit Us www.MadeInCA.comOnline SAVE 10% PROMO CODE: UNITED Your Southern California adventure starts here. Redondo Beach is a family-friendly seaside playground that is packed with natural wonders and activities to explore along the water’s edge. More sunshine. More funtime. More treasures. In Redondo Beach, there’s always More To Sea SM www.VisitRedondo.com/MoreSun FireCrystals® are beautiful tempered and recycled glass pieces used to permanently replace the burning of wood or use of fake logs in open vented, natural gas and propane gas fireplaces and fire pits. FireCrystals® last forever and they are heated by the natural gas or propane gas. 1•866•875•6615www.firecrystals.comAlsoAvailableatTarget.com

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010 103 Co-educational Boarding & Day College Preparatory 6th - 12th grade LOOK BEYOND MY UNIFORM | watch the video on our homepage www.farragut.org 501 Park Street North St. Petersburg, FL 33710 (727) 384-5500 ext. 220 ADVANCED EDUCATION AP Classes | Dual Enrollment Aviation | NJROTC | Engineering Club Small, Structured Classes PERSONAL GROWTH Character & Leadership Development Multicultural | Dedicated & Caringwww.farragut.orgFacultyLEARN MORE Videos & Information: www.farragut.org Facebook: Admiral Farragut Academy Follow Us: www.twitter.com/AdmiralFarragut CAMPUS TOURS AVAILABLE UNIQUE OPPORTUNITIES Sailing | SCUBA | Numerous Sports Weekend Excursions | International Travel Beautiful Waterfront Campus Elementary School PreK - 5th Grade Day Program THE UNIVERSITYAMERICANOF ROME English Language Study Abroad Programs Transfer Students Welcome AMERICAN BACHELOR OF ARTS BACHELOR OF SCIENCE ASSOCIATE OF ART DEGREES Bachelor of Arts in: Archeology & Classical Heritage ItalianInterdisciplinaryArtInternationalFilmCommunication&DigitalMediaRelationsHistoryStudiesStudies Bachelor of Science in: Business Administration Associate of Arts in: Liberal InternationalStudiesBusiness The American University of Rome is regionally accredited by the Middle States Commission on Higher Education (MSCHE) • Rome in a classroom • Multicultural experience in an international community • Top quality international faculty • International student body • Partnerships with af liate universities in every part of the US • Choice of semester, winter & summer sessions Via Pietro Roselli 4 00153 Rome, Italy tel: +39 www.aur.eduinfo@aur.edu06.58330919 Whether your dream is to ﬂy a small aircraft for personal use, be the captain of an airliner, or anything else in between. Where Your Aviation Dreams Become Your Aviation Reality. San Diego Flight Training 8745 Aero Dr. Ste. 103 San Diego, CA 92123

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES Contact Us To Learn More About 401(k) Small Business Financing And Receive A Free Info Packet 888.472.4455 | www.Guidant401k.com Entrepreneurs

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Accordingaccount.toDavid Nilssen, cofounder of Guidant Financial Group, a 2008 Inc. 500 company and leader in innovative small business financing, a 401(k) is allowed to hold both publicly traded and privately held stock. “We help an individual start their own business by creating a private corporation and rolling their existing retirement funds into a new 401(k), which then buys stock in the private corporation—making the 401(k) a shareholder. As the business grows, so does the 401(k).”

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Despite today’s economy, Nilssen reports that this financing structure contributes significantly to U.S. job growth. “We’ve helped over 5,000 clients launch businesses with retirement funds,” he says. “Our average client creates 8.3 jobs.” Nilssen adds, “You wouldn’t believe how many times I hear individuals complain, ‘If only I’d known this option existed before I borrowed so much money!’ Thankfully, this financing vehicle is gaining national acceptance and, in turn, is allowing entrepreneurs to pursue their dreams of small business ownership.”

Successful Businesses With Retirement Funds In Challenging Economy

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010 105 *Restaurants and Institutions Consumers’ Choice in Chains 2009. © 2010 Papa Murphy’s International, Inc. Offer made by prospectus only. FDD 2004–2010. Call 1-877-777-5062 or visit papamurphysfranchise.com. Your future here is as big as OUR STUFFED PIZZAS. Become a franchisee with an award-winning company that’s enjoyed 50% sales growth since 2004!

January May September February June October March July November April August December ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Opt to save on a year’s worth of stretching out. SAVE $50 Economy Plus® annual option united.com/eplusforless Promo code: JUNEP375 SAVE $50 Economy Plus® annual option united.com/eplusforless Promo code: JUNEP375 You and a companion can enjoy more room to stretch out and relax for an entire year with the Economy Plus annual option, just $375 through July 1—a savings of $50. Economy Plus annualSAVEoption$ 50 SAVE $50 Economy Plus® annual option united.com/eplusforless Promo code: JUNEP375 SAVE $50 Economy Plus® annual option united.com/eplusforless Promo code: JUNEP375 Visit united.com/eplusforless and enter the promotion code JUNEP375 . Get the Economy Plus® annual option for less. 0 0 0

Play ALittle One-on-One Qualitytimeonthecourtisn’tjustaboutshootingfreethrowsor hittingthoselayups.It’saboutrelationshipsandspendingtime togetherrightinyourownbackyard. SportCourthigh-performancegamecourtscanbecustombuilt tofityourbackyard. www.SportCourt.comor1-888-My-Court

PLAY Alice in Wonderland ENTERTAINMENT 110 Films & Television 116 Audio Programming 132 Crossword 134 Sudoku INFORMATION 122 United Destinations 126 Terminal Diagrams 129 Alliances & Partnerships 130 Customs & Immigration 139 Food & Beverages JUNE 2010

TIM BURTON’S WONDERLAND looks dreamy but exerts a physical hold on the actors. The monsters are fake, but the action is real, and that keeps things grounded. Seeing Alice trip and tumble— and suffer one nasty, Edward Scissorhands–worthy scratch from the animated Bandersnatch—gives a sense of peril. It’s easy for audiences to feel that they’re actually there in Wonderland with Alice, despite the surreal nature of the place. Ultimately, Burton, did what he set out to, which is to provide an environment in which it’s easy to suspend disbelief—or, in Alice’s words, believe at least six impossible things before breakfast.—Patrick Huguenin

TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION JUNE 1-15 Valentine’s Day JUNE 16-30 The Ghost Writer JUNE 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] Raging Planet [T] Arrested Development (Flashback) [T] JUNE 16-30 30 R ock [T] July 4th: Exploding Myths Friends (Flashback) [T] JUNE 1-15 Ho w to Train Your Dragon JUNE 16-30 Alice in Wonderland [V] Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii JUNE 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] Hubble Final Frontier The Middle [T] JUNE 16-30 The Office [T] Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations [T] The Simpsons [T] JUNE 1-15 The Ghost Writer JUNE 16-30 Valentine’s Day Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii JUNE 1-15 30 Rock [T] July 4th: Exploding Myths Friends (Flashback) [T] JUNE 16-30 Two and a Half Men [T] Raging Planet [T] Arrested Development (Flashback) [T] JUNE 1-15 Valentine’s Day JUNE 16-30 The Ghost Writer JUNE 1-15 30 Rock [T] Chuck [T][V] Man V. Food Friends (Flashback) [T] JUNE 16-30 The Middle [T] Life Unexpected [T] Treasure Quest Everybody Loves Raymond (Flashback) [T] JUNE 1-15 Alice in Wonderland [V] JUNE 16-30 Ho w to Train Your Dragon JUNE 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] The Good Wife [T] The Big Bang Theory Frasier (Flashback) [T] JUNE 16-30 The Office [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] Man V. Food Arrested Development (Flashback) [T] &MEXICOHAWAIIAMERICANORTHCARIBBEAN JUNE 1-15 Alice in Wonderland [V] JUNE 16-30 Ho w to Train Your Dragon JUNE 1-15 The Office [T] Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations [T] The Simpsons [T] JUNE 16-30 The Big Bang Theory [T] Hubble Final Frontier The Middle [T] &FILMTELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10. FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONSOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND EASTBOUND WESTBOUND THROUGH THE LOOKING GLASS

1 hr. 57 min.

“Smooth, calm, conﬁdent, it builds suspense instead of depending on shock and action. The actors create characters who suggest [intrigue].”—Chicago Sun-Times When a successful ghostwriter agrees to ﬁnish the memoirs of a former British prime minister, his agent assures him it’s the opportunity of a lifetime. But the project seems doomed—not least because his predecessor on the project, Lang’s long-term aide, died in an unfortunate accident.

HOW TO TRAIN YOUR DRAGON

“Tim Burton’s spectacular reimagining of Alice in Wonderland ...takes Lewis Carroll’s famous Jabberwocky poem and makes it a[n] epic for the next generation.”— The Times Director Tim Burton brings his unique style to Lewis Carroll’s beloved classic about a young girl named Alice who follows a white rabbit down a dark hole and ﬁnds herself in a strange fantasy world ﬁlled with talking creatures and dangerous beings.

“DreamWorks’ most idiosyncratic and...charming film in years. ”— Guardian Teen spirit. Viking teenager Hiccup lives on the island of Berk, where fighting dragons is a way of life. He’s a bit of an outcast with his tribe and its chief, who happens to be Hiccup’s father. However, when Hiccup is included in Dragon Training, he sees his chance to prove he’s a fighter. But he encounters (and befriends) an injured dragon, and what started out as Hiccups one shot to prove himself turns into an opportunity to set a new course for the entire tribe.

Valentine’s Day accomplishes what it sets out to do. That is, it puts a smile on your face and leaves you reaching for the hand of your signiﬁcant other, which is as legitimate a goal as that of any action-thriller. ”—New Orleans Times-Picayune Valentine’s Day follows the lives of several couples on this special day. Their stories are told through the interconnections they have with each other. Some will ﬁnd romance in their relationship, and others will feel the heartbreak of ending a love affair.

2 hrs. 8 min. 1 hr. 38 min.

VOICES BY Gerard Butler, Kristen Wiig, Jonah Hill DIRECTED BY Dean DeBlois, Chris Sanders

FEATURING Ewan McGregor, Pierce Brosnan, Kim Cattrall DIRECTED BY Roman Polanski

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

“

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm.

ALICE IN WONDERLAND [V]

VALENTINE’S DAY

1 hr. 49 min.

FEATURING Anne Hathaway, Mia Wasikowska, Helena Bonham Carter DIRECTED BY Tim Burton

FEATURING Julia Roberts, Bradley Cooper, Jennifer Garner DIRECTED BY Garry Marshall

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

111HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010

THE GHOST WRITER

YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO MOVIES, TV SHOWS, MUSIC AND PREMIUM SEAT COMFORT ABOARD UNITED IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

Alice in Wonderland look so wondrous. CURIOUS THINGS PLAY

Like to plan ahead and know what’s playing before your flight? Text “MOVIE” to 75309 and you’ll get a reply with the current movies that are playing. If you really like to plan ahead, text “NEXT MOVIE” for next month’s movies. What do you think of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

When parents Frankie and Mike hear son Brick is “socially challenged,” they try to get him interested in basketball. That fails, but Mike discovers that Brick has a talent for souping up machines. Meanwhile Frankie tries to get new football jerseys.

Liz proposes an episode of the variety show she writes be done on location in Miami in the dead of winter to boost morale, but boss Jack changes the locale to Boston so that he can be close to his sweetheart, Nancy. Burrr !

RAGING PLANET [T] Lightning is the most powerful electrical force on earth, and it strikes our planet around 10 million times a day. In recent years, high-speed cameras have captured the phenomenon in unprecedented detail. See the stunning images for the ﬁrst time.

ANTHONY BOURDAIN: NO RESERVATIONS [T]

&FILMTELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

30 ROCK [T]

THE MIDDLE [T]

LIVE LAUGH LEARN

GET IN TOUCH

The world-famous, sharp-tongued chef and food writer joins up with friends to visit New York’s deﬁning restaurants. They must cope with how Manhattan culture is disappearing along with these famous eateries.

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

HUBBLE: FINAL FRONTIER The Hubble Telescope and its accomplishments are highlighted in this documentary. The 20-year-old piece of equipment has helped scientists see into other galaxaies and predict what will happen in the future.

Join NFL linebacker Dhani Jones as he explores the world and learns new cultures. In Russia, Dhani attempts Sambo—the art of self-defense without weapons. Only showing on p.s. ﬂights from Los Angeles and San Francisco to New York’s JFK airport.

DHANI TACKLES THE GLOBE [T]

America’s Olympic and Paralympic athletes rely on individual contributions to help them reach their dreams and represent their country. So join the Olympic Movement and support our team – Team USA. Every donation – no matter the size – can make a big difference in an athlete’s life. Together we win. To donate, log onto TeamUSA.org or call 888-222-2313 It takes more than practice, dedication and guts to be an Olympian. It takes YOU. © 2010 The United States Olympic Committee You can also donate your United Mileage Plus ® miles to the Olympic and Paralympic athletes of Team USA by visitin g TeamUSA.org Flying America’s Team for 30 Years

&FILMTELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル10番でお聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 在747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道 FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMFILMTELEVISIONTELEVISION If your aircraft is equipped with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket. CHINAJAPAN & HONG &THAILANDJAPAN–HONGVIETNAM–HONGSINGAPORE–KONGKONGKONGTAIWAN Valentine’s Day (J)(C) The Ghost Writer (C) Invictus (J)(C) *Extraordinary Measures (C) *East Coast/ORD only Without A Trace [T][V] (J) Brothers and Sisters [T] (J) Friends (Flashback) [T] (J) The Mentalist [T][V] (C) Chuck [T][V] (C) Frasier (Flashback) [T] (C) Crazy Heart (J)(C) The Mentalist [T][V] (C) Chuck [T][V] (C) Frasier (Flashback) [T] (C) The Mentalist [T][V] (C) Chuck [T][V] (C) / Frasier (Flashback) [T] (C) Swamp Loggers (C) Out of Egypt (C) Weird Connections (C) Fast Track (J) Extratime (J) / Click (J) HARDtalk (J) Crazy Heart (J) 聲聲相識 (C) *Invictus (J)(C) *Thailand flights only Fast Track (J) Extratime (J) Click HARDtalk(J)(J) Ho Chi Minh City to Hong Kong The Young Victoria (J)(C) *The Last Station (C) *Thailand flights only The Mentalist [T][V] (C) Chuck [T][V] (C) Frasier (Flashback) [T] (C) Fast Track (J) Extratime (J) Click HARDtalk(J)(J) Valentine’s Day (J)(C) The Ghost Writer (C) Invictus (J)(C) Extraordinary Measures (C) Alice in Wonderland [V] (C) アリス・イン・ワンダーランド (J) How to Train Your Dragon (J)(C) The Last Station (C) *Leap Year (J)(C) *East Coast/ORD only Alice in Wonderland [V] (C) アリス・イン・ワンダーランド (J) How to Train Your Dragon (J)(C) The Last Station (C) Leap Year (J)(C) The Young VictoriaFast(J)(C)Track (J) / Extratime (J) Click (J) / HARDtalk (J) Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City EASTBOUND WESTBOUND The Good Wife [T] Dhani Tackles the Globe [T] 30 Rock [T] Valentine’s Day (G) The Ghost Writer (G) Invictus (G) *Extraordinary Measures (G) *West Coast only Chuck [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] Two and a Half Men [T] Alice in Wonderland [V] Alice im Wunderland (G) How to Train Your Dragon Drachenzähmen leicht gemacht (G) The Last Station (G) *Leap Year (G) *West Coast only Valentine’s Day (G) The Ghost Writer (G) Invictus (G) Extraordinary Measures (G) Two and a Half Men [T] The Good Wife [T] Arrested Development (Flashback) [T] / 30 Rock [T] Alice in Wonderland [V] (G) How to Train Your Dragon (G) The Last Station (G) Leap Year (G) The Office [T] Three Sheets [T] e 2 Design The Big Bang Theory [T] AUSTRALIAGERMANY *Thailand flights only

INVICTUS

THE YOUNG VICTORIA

FEATURING Jeff Bridges, Colin Farrell, Maggie Gyllenhaal DIRECTED BY Scott Cooper

FEATURING Brendan Fraser, Harrison Ford DIRECTED BY Tom Vaughan

FEATURING Emily Blunt, Rupert Friend, Paul Bettany DIRECTED BY Jean-Marc Vallée

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT/PERSONAL DEVICES

An alcoholic country music singer is able to get his life and career back on track through his relationship with a female reporter and becomes a mentor to contemporary country star at the peak of his career.

FEATURING Helen Mirren, Christopher Plummer, James McAvoy DIRECTED BY Michael Hoffman

After almost 50 years of marriage, Leo Tolstoy’s devoted wife ﬁnds her world turned upside down: In the name of his newfound religion, the novelist renounces his title and family in favor of poverty.

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your ﬂight features a different lineup before and after the start of each month.

It’s 1837, and Victoria is the object of a royal power struggle. Her uncle, King William, is dying, and Victoria is in line for the throne. Everyone around Victoria—her mother, her adviser and her governess—smothers the queen-to-be and keeps her out of court. The ﬁlm follows her as she takes the throne, learns which advisers to trust and develops her famous romance with Prince Albert.

FEATURING Amy Adams, Matthew Goode, Adam Scott DIRECTED BY Anand Tucker

MEASURESEXTRAORDINARY

1 hr. 39 min.

1 hr. 52 min.

THE LAST STATION

United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following in regard to the use of electronic equipment/personal devices onboard its aircraft. However, the following is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations. Certain electronic devices may not be used on our planes for safety reasons. Such devices may cause electromagnetic interference with cockpit navigation or communications systems during ground operations and while the aircraft is ﬂying below 10,000 feet. However, when an aircraft is traveling above 10,000 feet (normally about 10 minutes after takeoff), passengers can use many of the devices listed. Hearing aids, heart pacemakers and watches are acceptable at all times. These electronic devices can be used in the cabin, but may not be used during takeoff and landing: Calculators; handheld computer games; shavers; portable CD and tape players; laptop computers/ accessory printers/tape drives; portable VCRs/video players These electronic devices cannot be used on the airplane at any time: Cellular phones (cellular phones maybe used on the plane at the gate before the aircraft door is closed or at captain’s discretion when the plane is away from the gate and on the ground); televisions; AM/FM transmitters-receivers; remote-controlled toys

115HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010

CRAZY HEART

FEATURING Morgan Freeman, Matt Damon, Scott Eastwood DIRECTED BY Clint Eastwood

John Crowley walks away from a successful career when his two youngest children are diagnosed with a fatal disease. With his wife, Aileen, by his side, Crowley teams up with a brilliant, unconventional scientist to form a company focused on developing a life-saving drug.

1 hr. 52 min.

In addition, United Airlines has an onboard photography and video policy. Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, ﬁlm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (motion or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent speciﬁcally permitted by United Airlines. UAL Corporation October 2009.

A tale of two romances, one beginning, one near its end, The Last Station is about the difﬁculty of living with love and the impossibility of living without it.

LEAP YEAR Amy Adams stars in this comedy about a woman scheming to propose to her boyfriend on February 29, per Irish tradition. She faces a setback when she needs the help of an attractive innkeeper to get her to her boyfriend. After that, the surprises keep coming.

1 hr. 45 min.

2 hrs. 8 min.

1 hr. 45 min.

The ﬁlm tells the story of how Nelson Mandela joined forces with the captain of South Africa’s rugby team, Francois Pienaar. Believing he can bring his people together through sports, Mandela rallies the underdog team as they make a run to the 1995 World Cup Championship.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

The latest in Indie and Modern Rock. The best of pop music from around the world. The best contemporaryof jazz. The best of atmospheric and new age music. The latest in electronic and dance music.

The best from the world of classical music. The latest and top selling music for kids.

The latest top selling songs from Zune. The best of current adult pop. The greatest classic rock hits. The latest and greatest alternative hits. The best of current and classic country.

The latest and greatest in world music. The latest and greatest in R&B and soul.

Mary J Blige Redeﬁning R&B, Mary J Blige has used music to touch lives, bringing soul and truth to audiences worldwide. Listen to “The One” on the R&B Soul Channel.

The best from the world of chamber music. The best in music performed on the piano. The best from the world of opera. The latest and classics from movie soundtracks. The best in comedy.

AUDIO PROGRAMMING

Black Eyed Peas Combining positive messages with high-energy music, Black Eyed Peas link Hip Hop and Pop music. Listen to “I Gotta Feeling” on the Contemporary Pop Channel.

CHANNEL 777(2-CABIN)SELECTA320A319&A320747757/767(2-CABIN) 1 movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) movie (english) 2 top songs in zunetop songs in zunetop songs in zunemovie (dubbed) top songs in zune 3 contemporary popcontemporary popcontemporary popmovie (dubbed) contemporary pop 4 classical classical classical classical classical 5 new wave new wave new wave new wave new wave 6 country country unavailable country country 7 classic rock classic rock unavailable classic rock classic rock 8 kids kids unavailable contemporary popkids 9 flight deck flight deck flight deck jazz/contemporary flight deck jazz/contemporary flight deck 10 indie/modern rockmovie (dubbed) movie (dubbed) top songs in zunemovie (dubbed) 11 world pop indie/modern rockindie/modern rockkids 12 new age new age new age new age 13 r&b/soul contemporary jazzcountry chamber music 14 electronic/danceelectronic/danceclassic rock world music 15 chamber musicchamber musickids 16 piano jazz 17 opera 18 soundtracks 19 comedy Zune and United bring you a sample of the hundreds of channels available to Zune users across PCs, Media Players and Xbox 360 consoles. Learn more about Zune music and video entertainment on www.zune.net Find your aircraft model on the grid below to find the Zune channel that’s right for you. flight deck A feature unique to United, live radio communications between the flight deck and Air Traf fi c Control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its fl ight number. May not be available on all flights. Available at your captain’s discretion. zune pass Like what you hear? Get all the music offered here today plus unlimited access to millions of other songs with a Zune® Pass music subscription.* Visit zune.net/zunepass to try it free for 14-days. on *Zune Pass is a monthly music subscription, available in the United States. Available content may vary over time.

the ultimate in ﬂight enter tainment Zune® HD is a premium portable entertainment experience in the palm of your hand. Listen to music, enjoy HD Radio™ broadcasts on the go, watch your favorite movies and TV shows, surf the web through a Wi-Fi connection, play games and more. You can even connect Zune HD to your HDTV* and watch your HD movies on the big screen. Not a bad way to pass time. Zune HD by Microsoft. Get yours today. Available at * Zune HD AV Dock and an HDTV (all sold separately) are required to view video at 720p HD resolution. Zune HD player screen is 480x272 – not HD. Zune HD is only available in the United States.

BIENNIAL OF THE AMERICAS JULY 1ST 31ST ,2010 CITYWIDE EXHIBITIONS Butterﬂies. Symphonies. Theater. Art Walks. DENVER’S MOST NOTABLE ARTISTIC AND CULTURAL CENTERS WILL CELEBRATE THE RICHNESS OF THE AMERICAS ARTS AND CULTURE WITH SPECIAL BIENNIAL PROGRAMMING. TICKETS ON SALE NOW – WWW.BIENNIALOFTHEAMERICAS.ORG THE BIENNIAL OF THE AMERICAS WILL BE A MONTH-LONG CELEBRATION OF THE PEOPLE, ART AND CULTURE OF THE WESTERN HEMISPHERE. DENVER, COLORADO MCNICHOLS AT CIVIC CENTER PARK Art. Concerts. Talks. Kids-Patch. Dance. Film. A REVITALIZED 30,000 SQUARE-FOOT MONUMENT WILL FEATURE AN EXHIBITION TITLED "THE NATURE OF THINGS" , SHOWCASING NEVER BEFORE SEEN CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS FROM THE AMERICAS. AMERICAS ROUNDTABLES Global Issues. World Leaders. Call to Action. A SERIES OF SEVEN SYMPOSIA AND TRANSNATIONAL SUMMITS THAT WILL PROMOTE MORE COHESIVENESS AND COLLABORATION AMONG THE 35 NATIONS OF THE WESTERN HEMISPHERE WHILE BUILDING MANDATES FOR POLICY ACTION.

Portland Vancouver Seattle Boise San Jose Las Vegas LOS ANGELES San Diego SAN FRANCISCO Oakland DENVER Sacramento Salt Lake Phoenix/ScottsdaleTucsonCity Albuquerque Colorado Springs HoustonSan Antonio KansasWorthFortDallas/CityOmahaOklahomaAustinCity Bozeman Orange County Tulsa El Paso Honolulu Ontario Kahului MoinesMinneapoliDesSpringfiel Spokane WichitaLincoln Missoula Rapid City Reno/Tahoe CalgaryEdmonton Winnipeg Jackson Hole Kona 050100150 Miles 050100150200 Kilometers Burbank MontroseSpringsSteamboatHayden/ButteCrestedGunnison/Vail/Eagle Fargo Gillette Rock Springs CrescentEurekaCity AspenCarlsbadBakersfieldChico YellowstoneCody/ CasperFresnoEugene FallsSioux JunctionGrand Medford Pasco Palm Springs Santa Barbara InyokernImperialSanMontereyLuisObispoSantaMaria Yuma Modesto Redmond Redding Bismarck ArkansasNorthwest Great Falls Idaho Falls KalispellAnchorage Puerto Vallarta Los Cabos Mexico City Billings Victoria Helena FallsKlamath North Bend Saskatoon LakeMoses ReginaMidland/OdessaDurango HarlingenBrownsvilleCorpusChristiAlamosaLaramieScottsbluffChadronAllianceMcAllenLaredoMinotPierreLiberalKearneyHuronMcCookDodgeCityGreatBendGardenCityHaysSalinaPuebloFarmingtonCortezTellurideLakePage/Powell Show Low Prescott Moab WorlandSheridan DickinsonMiles SidneyCityWillistonWolfGlasgowPoint Lewistown MercedVisalia Hilo Kapalua IslandGrand Vernal North Platte Cheyenne Riverton ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES United/United Express Route Cities served by United and United Express Cities served by Star Alliance or partner Code Share UNITED HUB Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

SpartanburgGreenville/WestOrlandoMiamiPalmBeachCharlestonSavannah Baltimore LouisvilleBirminghamMemphisMilwaukee Philadelphia St. Louis Tampa/St. Petersburg ClevelandCharlotte Detroit Jacksonville OrleansNew New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Norfolk/VirginiaKennedy)Beach Toronto Albany Atlanta Boston ColumbusColumbiaNashville RichmondRaleigh/Durham WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) SpringfieldHartford/ Cincinnati ProvidencePortland Newark Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem LexingtonGrandRapids Ft.SyracuseLauderdale/HollywoodBuffalo/NiagaraFalls Knoxville Manchester Ft. Myers Indianapolis eapolis Dayton HarrisburgAllentown Madison Pittsburgh FoxAppleton/Cities Burlington IowaRapids/CedarCity Wausau WayneFt. Green Bay PlainsWhite LansingMidland/Saginaw Moline Rochester MishawakaBend/Elkhart/South gfield Charleston Traverse CityAkron/Canton CollegeStateWilkesScrantonBarre/Charlottesville Roanoke Springfield (Reagan National) San Juan Peoria AshevilleAugusta Halifax Ottawa Pensacola Tallahassee Myrtle Fayetteville/Ft.Beach Bragg GainesvilleHilton Head Island DecaturHuntsville/ JacksonvilleCorningIthaca/ Long Island/Islip New Bern Tri-Cities Regional BinghamtonWilmington 0 100200300400 Miles 0100200300400500600 Kilometers Newport News/Williamsburg Greenvillewestsas RockLittle Antigua Punta Cana St. Kitts Providenciales St. Lucia Cozumel Santo Domingo St. Thomas St. Maarten Montego Bay Altoona ParkersburgBeckleyJohnstownShenandoahValleyClarksburgMorgantown FreeportNassau Grand Cayman Hamilton London Duluth Chattanooga BiloxiGulfport/ Huntington New Haven Williamsport City JacksonMobileMontgomery NewburghSalisbury Ft. BeachWalton Florence PaducahMuskegon RougeBaton North Eleuthera Eau Claire Houghton Daytona Key West BurlingtonWaynesville 121HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010

Sydney Brisbane CairnsPerthShanghaiBeijing San FranciscoFuzhouShenyangChengduChongqingGuangzhouShenzhen Los Angeles Queenstown Wellington Seattle Rarotonga OsakaTokyoSendaiNagoyaHiroshima Okinawa Seoul Sapporo Fukuoka Hong Kong Delhi Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Auckland Melbourne DunedinChristchurchNadi ApiaHonolulu Pusan BangkokHanoi Denver Dallas Singapore GuatemalSan Taipei Kota Kinabalu Phuket Komatsu Baotou Hangzhou Harbin WuhanNanjingQingdaoXiamen Ma Kuala Lumpur Kolkata Dalian Saipan Rotorua Edmonton Majuro Guam ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES United Route Code Share route serviced by a Star Alliance member Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

Philadelphia Miami NewArubaYorkBoston Frankfurt Washington,CityBelize DC Rio de Janeiro Copenhagen Chicago Newark Addis Ababa Paris Chennai (Madras) Tel Aviv Kuwait Lagos MunichJohannesburgHouston Accra MumbaiBangalore Rome Delhi Amman Alma-AtaAmsterdamCape Town Madrid Stockholm London Dubai Abu Dhabi Muscat Vienna Atlantallas Detroit WarsawShannon Buenos Aires temala City an Salvador Brussels CairoAsmara Bahrain Dakar Lisbon EastDurbanLondon Porto Hyderabad Orlando Tbilisi Port Elizabeth Lima TegucigalpaCuzcoSanPedroSulaManagua PeshawarLahoreIslamabadCochinColomboTrivandrumLiberia Doha Abuja Karachi Geneva CuritibaBrasilia Fortaleza Manaus PortoBeloAlegreSalvadorHorizonteIguassu Falls Recife Dublin Moscow Charlotte JeddahRiyadh Sal Istanbul Belfast Manchester BirminghamBristol EdinburghBarcelonaGlasgow OsloHamburgMilanBerlin PanamaMontrealCityTorontoOttawa Athens Santiago Montevideo 123 Budapest LisbonPorto Turin Lyon Geneva LondonParis Oslo HamburgCopenhagen Brussels MilanFrankfurtHannoverNurembergVenicePisaRomeNaplesTrieste Istanbul Bucharest Kiev Vienna MunichPrague Warsaw Helsinki BerlinLuga Bremen GrazInnsbruck LinzKlagenfurtSalzburg Sofia Sarajevo Cologne Dresden Verona Vilnius Katowice MarseilleStuttgartNice Riga Stavanger Ancona Dublin BolognaFlorenceGenoa Stockholm Amsterdam Basel EdinburghAberdeen Belfast Birmingham Bergen Ankara Glasgow Manchester BelgradeSkopje ShannonCork AdanAntalya Izmir Leipzig HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010

Reservations 800-UNITED-1united.com (800-864-8331) Automated Flight Information 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award 800-UNITED-1united.com/mileageplusTravel(800-864-8331) Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service 800-537-7783united.com/chase Baggage Services 800-UNITED-1united.com/baggage(800-864-8331) Refunds 800-UNITED-1united.com/refunds(800-864-8331) TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS

At United Airlines, priority is safety and keeping an on-time On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure maintain the highest safety standards. canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

schedule.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we Whether next flight is Alliance partners around the world, use your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps

show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. CONTACT INFORMATION Customer Relations 800-UNITED-1united.comEmail:united.com/customerrelationscustomerrelations@(800-864-8331) Red Carpet Club™ 520-881-0500866-UA-CLUBSunited.com/redcarpetclub(toll-free)(outsidethe U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170 Language Assistance (Asian) 800-426-5560 Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561 United Cargo 800-UA-CARGOunitedcargo.com(800-822-2746) United Services unitedsvcs.com Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations 800-32-TOURSunitedvacations.com(800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243 Employment Opportunities 888-UAL-JOBSunited.com/jobs(888-825-5627) EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options. Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass. Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced. DOMESTIC

the terminal diagrams on pages 125–128 to plan

INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

Flight

on United or one of the Star

your

our

seats.

125HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010 WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.IAD Concourse D MAIN TERMINAL C2 C12 C18 C Connector Tunnel Train Shuttle Bus C24 C1A2A4A6 A14 A32 B37B79A1A3A5C9 C17 C27 D1D3D2 D8 D30 Shuttle Bus Concourse A South African Airways Concourse C Air Canada Concourse B AustrianANAAirlinesContinentalLufthansaSASZ GATES US Airways CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.ORD TERMINALONE TERMINALTWO TERMINALTHREE Elevated Airport Transit System (ATS) PedestrianTunnel TERMINALFIVE InternationalArrivals Concourse F US Airways Concourse M Concourse E Air Canada Concourse B ContinentalLufthansa Concourse C ANA C1 B1 F1 F4 F11 F14 F10F6 E1 B6 B9 B18B14 B22 C17 C19 C18C24C32 C16 C8 Shuttle runs between Gates C9 and E3. E3 C9Shuttle Bus United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.DEN 57 ★ TERMINALWEST TERMINALEAST Concourse C US Airways Concourse B Concourse A Air ContinentalCanadaLufthansa 2528261516 3736 35 41 3938 4950 60 80 919281 57 77 SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.SFO 72 Concourse G United Air New LufthansaANAZealandSingapore Concourse A Asiana Concourse B ContinentalUSAirways Concourse E Air CanadaConcourse F TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 3 80798988 81 73International Terminal Secure Connector 76A78A 71 Rountrip Shuttle service between Terminal G and Terminal 1. MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 125–128 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. TOM INTERNATIONALBRADLEYTERMINAL ThaiLufthansaAirwaysANASingaporeAsianaSwiss TERMINAL 3TERMINAL 2 Air Canada Air New Zealand TERMINAL 1 US Airways TERMINAL 4TERMINAL 5TERMINAL 6 Continental TERMINAL 7TERMINAL 8 67A69A 68B64 75A71A 7672 888070A 124B Shuttle Bus LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.LAX United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center United Gate InternationalAreaArrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center

TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 2 37 39 43 56 50 4236 Shuttle Bus Shuttle Bus LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTLHR 127HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010 FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTFRA B300-B303 B332-B340 TERMINAL ONE Pier A, Level 3 Gates A51-A65 Pier B Pier C C5 B20 B24 B26 B28 B48 B46 B44 C1 C7 C8 Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel Train to Terminal 2 Lufthansa Tower Lounge Level 5 TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTNRT Satellite 3 Satellite Satellite2 1 Satellite 5 Satellite 4 TERMINAL 1 313743 47 38 32 North Wing South WingPedestrianTunnel Third Floor Zone A ZoneFourthD Floor United Gate Area United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Gate InterterminalAreaTrain Stop Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Medical Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS STAR ALLIANCE United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center US AIRWAYS HUBS CONTINENTAL HUBS CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLT PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHX PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHL CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLE B3C2 D2 D6 D10 D14 D17 D21 D25 D28 C7C14 C16C19 C22 C25 C29 C10 C4 Concourse C Continental Concourse B United Concourse A Concourse D Continental Pedestrian Tunnel NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTEWR AirTrain 130127136 102101115 72 887571 B3 B2 B1 A1A2 A380 98 92 TERMINAL A ContinentalUnited TERMINAL B TERMINAL C Continental Shuttle Bus HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORTIAH TerminaLink connects B, C, D and E. It is above ground transportation between terminals while inside security. TerminaLink Shuttle Bus TERMINAL A United TERMINAL B TERMINALS A-E Continental TERMINAL CTERMINAL E TERMINAL D A25-30A3-15A17-24 B76-83 B84-91 C34-42C14-23 E1-9 E10-14E15-24B68-75 B60-67 Concourse A United Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D ConcourseConcoursesE B-E US Airways 24 Continuous shuttle bus pickup and drop-off between Gates F10 and C16. Concourse A West Concourse A East Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D United Concourses A, B, C & F US Airways Concourse E Concourse F 1 7 13 To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside. Concourse A Concourse B Concourse B International TERMINAL 4 US Airways TERMINAL 2 United 71

REGIONAL ALLIANCE PARTNERS

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER

Effective JUNE 13, 2010, TAM will become a Star Alliance member

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®. Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive.

129HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost every Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles you earn will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus. See united.com/airpartners for details.

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. Earn or redeem Mileage Plus miles when you ﬂy on any Star Alliance member carrier. The ﬂight miles you earn qualify toward elite status for next year. As a Mileage Plus elite member, your status is recognized on all the Star Alliance carriers. For more information, go to united.com/staralliance.

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the ﬁrst truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 18,900 daily ﬂights to 983 destinations in 169 countries.

STAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS

Aer Lingus Air HawaiianGreatEmiratesContinentalDolomitiConnectionLakesAirlines

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards—upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

Island Air Jet TACAQatarAirwaysAirwaysGroup You can earn and redeem miles on many of our Regional Alliance Partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for speciﬁc information about each of our Regional Alliance Partners.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suﬁciente para adquirir los documentos oﬁciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONSELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION

&CUSTOMSIMMIGRATION ENTRY CUSTOMSREGULATIONSDECLARATION ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name. SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:Sí/No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios alSídorso):/No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales):Sí/No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: Visitantes—el$___ valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___ ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País donde vives 11. País en el que abordaron 12. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 13. Fecha del visado (Día/Mes/Año) 14. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 15. Ciudad y Estado 16. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 17. Dirección de correo electrónico 18. Apellido 19. Nombre 20. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 21. Pais de ciudadanía ENGLISH Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta. HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage. FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side Admission Number Arrival Record 000000000 00 Departure Record 000000000 00 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded 12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY) 14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection 15. City and State 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form. This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal. I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

poisons, infectious substances NOTE There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new controls on the import of meat, ﬁsh, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

Do any of the following apply to you? (Answer Yes or No) Do you have communicable disease; physical or mental disorder, or are you drug abuser or addict? Have you ever been arrested or convicted for an offense or crime involving moral turpitude or a violation related to a controlled substance; or been arrested or convicted for two or more offenses for which the aggregate sentence to confinement was five years or more; or been controlled substance trafficker, or are you seeking entry to engage in criminal or immoral activities? Have you ever been or are you now involved in espionage or sabotage; or in terrorist activities; or genocide; or between 1933 and 1945 were involved, in any way, in persecutions associated with Nazi Germany or its allies? Are you seeking to work in the U.S.; or have ever been excluded and deported; or been previously removed from the United States; or procured or attempted to procure visa or entry into the U.S. by fraud or Havemisrepresentation?youeverdetained, retained or withheld custody of child from a U.S. citizen granted custody of the child? Have you ever been denied a U.S. visa or entry into the U.S. or had a U.S. visa cancelled? If yes, when? ______________________ where? _________________________ Have you ever asserted immunity from prosecution? Yes NoF.E.D.C.B.A.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender. on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Welcome to the United States I-94W Nonimmigrant Visa Waiver Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by every nonimmigrant visitor not in possession of a visitor’s visa, who is a national of one of the countries enumerated in 8 CFR 217. The airline can provide you with the current list of eligible countries. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. USE ENGLISH This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 15) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). The reverse side of this form must be signed and dated. Children under the age of fourteen must have their form signed by a parent or Itemguardian.9If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. Record

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

CERTIFICATION: certify that have read and understand all the questions and statements on this form. The answers have furnished are true and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK 131HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , firmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario. Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país. Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Grecia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino*LosUnido.ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos. Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) Nacionalidad Sexo (varón/hembra) Fecha de emisión del pasaporte Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País de residencia País en el que abordó 12. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 15. Dirección de correo electrónico SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas? Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales? Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa? Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos? Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique? Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde? G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento? Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

*Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program. Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for Countriesentry.that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Greece, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom.

your

Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No IMPORTANT: If you answered “Yes” to any of the above, please contact the American Embassy BEFORE you travel to the U.S. since you may be refused admission into the United States. Family Name (Please print) First Name Country of CitizenshipSignature Date

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

11.

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oﬁcial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94W (05/08) CBP Form I-94W (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side 00000000000 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. City Where You Boarded 12. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 13. City and State 14. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 15. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship 5 U.S.C. 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited

Important – Retain this permit in your possession; you must surrender it when you leave the U.S. Failure to do so may delay your entry into the U.S. in the future. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. only until the date written on this form. To remain past this date, without permission from Department of Homeland Security authorities, is a violation of the law. Surrender this permit when you leave the U.S.: By sea or air, to the transportation line; Across the Canadian border, to Canadian Official; Across the Mexican border, to U.S. Official. Warning: You may not accept unauthorized employment; or attend school; or represent the foreign information media during your visit under this program. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. for 90 days or less. You may not apply for: 1) a change of nonimmigrant status; 2) adjustment of status to temporary or permanent resident, unless eligible under section 201(b) of the INA; or 3) an extension of stay. Violation of these terms will subject you to deportation. Any previous violation of this program, including having previously overstayed on this program without proper DHS authorization, will result in a finding of inadmissibility as outlined in Section 217 of the Immigration and Nationality Act.

Admission Number Government Use Only Departure Record VISA WAIVER 00000000000 Admission Number Arrival Record VISA WAIVER 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Departure

FlightDate:Port: No./Ship Name: Paperwork Reduction Act Statement: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0111. The estimated average time to complete this application is minutes per respondent. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, Asset Management, 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington DC 20229

WAIVER OF RIGHTS: hereby waive any rights to review or appeal of a U.S. Customs and Border Protection officer’s determination as to my admissibility, or to contest, other than on the basis of an application for asylum, any action in deportation.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiﬂexion: With heel on ﬂoor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the ﬂoor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

CROSSWORD IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 55 ACROSS 1. Run off 6. American 10. Frighten away 15. Recess 19. Long 20. Loyal 21. It may get you to first base 22. “High” time 23. Plume source 24. Name 25. Deadly snake 26. Castaway’s place 27. Encode 29. City in Arizona 30. Throughout 32. Hang on 35. ABC’s 38. Down and out 39. Not a through street 41. Deaden 42. Sole supporter? 44. Small field 45. “We Family” 47. Popular jeans 49. Lean white flesh fish 53. Soda 54. Not fast 56. Stop working 58. “My boy” 59. Check for fit 61. green 62. Slender gull 63. Ready for picking 64. Sonny boy 66. MasterCard rival 70. Absorbed, as a loss 71. At this point 72. Arctic transport 75. Indy entry 77. Screw shaped 79. Michelin product 80. To boot 82. Elusive creature 83. Lighter? 84. Presently 85. Cheer 87. “i” lid 90. Traditional Sunday fare 94. Cincy player 95. Golf club carrier 97. Certain shark 99. Low card 100. Clover like 102. Blue hue 104. Great deal 105. Popular side 106. Pool division 107. Support 109. Dissipation 111. Train stop 114. Very skinny 118. Carpentry tool 119. Strikingly unusual 121. During 122. Very old Greek money 124. Smooch 125. Silklike fabric 127. Surfing need 128. Tsar’s decree 132. Matter for the gray matter 133. Fall off 134. Emphatic agreement 135. Carpenter’s tool 136. Duration 137. Manufacturer 138. Losing proposition? 139. Fantasize DOWN 1. Watch closely 2. Trouser part 3. Boat paddle 4. To lead 5. Complete 6. Hunger 7. Desiccant 8. Beat to the tape 9. Wranglers alternative 10. Winter beginnings 11. Stopped lying 12. Citified 13. Swe. neighbor 14. Duffer’s challenge 15. Liqueur flavoring 16. Sheriff’s helpers 17. Firm 18. Other side 28. Prison-related 29. Charades, essentially 31. Battery terminal 32. Adjust 33. Interior finishing’s 34. A malicious woman with a fierce temper 36. At the proper time 37. Casual top 40. Plummet 43. Horse gear 46. Lamb’s mother 48. Tennis match part 50. Willow tree twig 51. Dried coconut meat 52. Prepare to be knighted 54. Catch 55. Hot rock 57. Get misty-eyed 60. Bygone 63. African mammalhorned 65. Disembark a rail car 67. Frosty 68. Perceive by sight 69. Make a move 72. Kick off 73. Passenger ship 74. Wear away 75. Crucifix 76. Assists 78. Engine sound 81. Lots 86. Idiosyncrasy 88. Not at home 89. Think or believe 91. Rand McNally product 92. Metalworkers tool 93. Dry (off) 95. Mammal of South and Central America 96. Makeup 97. Troop group 98. Put into law 101. Floating wreckage of a ship 103. Middle- BRUCEGREGBYCROSSWORDPUZZLESPUZPUZ©105. An offensive odor 108. Sandwich filler 110. “They be finished by now” 111. Ledger entry 112. Give off 113. A model 115. Eskimo hunting boat 116. Ham it up 117. Flood embankment 120. Study for finals 123. Confined 126. Attorneys’ org. 127. Roll 129. Road map abbr. 130. Yellow, for one 131. Nightmarish street 132 JUNE 2010 | UNITED .COM BACK AND FORTH ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD

Visit: www.greatsteakofna.com The last of the operatorsindependents.greatTheowner/whogivenotonlyfinebeefbuttheirheartsaswell. The Independent Retail Cattleman’s Association 557 Mt.Pleasant Road Kingston Springs, TN info@greatsteakofna.com37082 McKendrick’s Steak House ATLANTA, Proprietors:GA........................770.512.8888Claudia&DougMcKendrick,RickCrowewww.mckendricks.com Malone’s LEXINGTON, KY....................859.335.6500 Proprietors: Brian McCarty & Bruce www.malonesrestaurant.comDrake Metropolitan Grill SEATTLE, WA.........................206.624.3287 Proprietor: Ron www.themetropolitangrill.comCohn Gene & Georgetti CHICAGO, Proprietors:IL.........................312.527.3718Tony&MarionDurpettiwww.geneandgeorgetti.com St. Elmo Steak House INDIANAPOLIS, IN.................317.635.0636 Proprietors: Steve Huse & Craig Huse www.stelmos.com III Forks DALLAS, Proprietor:HALLANDALEProprietor:TX............................972.267.1776ChrisVogeliBEACH,FL......954.457.3920TommyNevillwww.iiiforks.com Manny’s Proprietors:MINNEAPOLIS,MN.................612.339.9900PhilRoberts,PeterMihajlov&KevinKuesterwww.mannyssteakhouse.com Grill 225 CHARLESTON, SC.................843.266.4222 Proprietor: Nick Palassis Executive Chef: Demetre www.grill225.comCastanas Benjamin Steak House NEW YORK, NY ...................212.297.9177 Proprietor: Benjamin Prelvukaj Chef: Arturowww.benjaminsteakhouse.comMcLeod ©2010 Bose Corporation. Patent rights issued and/or pending. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. The Nowanthatheadphonespioneeredentireindustry.evenbetter.FREESHIPPING1-800-760-4305,ext.Q7820Bose.com/QC

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As seen on: The Today Show, Good Morning America, Entertainment Tonight, ABCNews 20/20, CNBC, E! The Big Idea w/ Donny Deutsch, The NEWSHOUR w/ Jim Lehrer, CNN, BBC, and FOX News. The One Established 24 years ago, Kelleher International is proud to be known as the industry leader and to set the standard today for Matchmaking KELLEHERwww.Kelleher-International.com(800)(+01)INTERNATIONAL415-332-4101401-MATCH(6282) K I KELLEHER INTERNATIONAL EXQUISITE MATCHMAKING SINCE 1986 BEVERL R CISC S VEG COTTSD L JOLL EW YO TO W SHI GTO D TL T I HOUSTO D P LM B TOCKHOL LO O Amber Kelleher-Andews CEO and Co-founder

MARKETPLACE Snorkel® HotTubs ClassicWoodHotTub NaturalWoodHeat SnorkeltubsseeninMGM’s “HotTubTimeMachine”” CallTollFree 1-800-962-6208 Dept.HE106 Orvisitwww.snorkel.com • Stillwater&cracklingfire-a deliciously relaxingexperience • Enjoywood-firedhottubbinganywhereno electricityrequired • TherapyJetsavailablewithwoodheat systems (electricityrequired) • Fingertip,digitalcontrolGasor Electric heatedtubsalsoavailable • Classicdesigniseasytoassemble, available inmanysizes

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JUNE 2010 137 Visit SeaEagle.com for more details or Call 1-800-748-8066 ocean surf! The SE 370 weighs 32 lbs., holds 650 lbs. and includes 2 deluxe kayak seats, 2 skegs for tracking, 3 deluxe air valves, drain valve, rigid I-beam floor, spray skirts & carry handles. ADVENTURE Dept HP060B, 19 N. Columbia St., Port Jefferson, NY 11777 SAVE $50. This Summer - Our SE 370 Pro Kayak Package includes 2 7’ 10” aluminum 4-part paddles, 2 deluxe kayak seats, foot pump, nylon carry bag, instructions and repair kit. Normally the Pro Package is $399. complete NOW THIS PACKAGE IS ONLY $349! But that’s not all, we are also offering FREE SHIPPING, 6 Month Money Back Trial Guarantee & 3 Year Warranty Against Manufacturing Defects! SHIPPINGFREE Mon-Fri, 9-5 EST NowOnSale! Simple to Carry, Simple to Paddle! Just $349 Complete with FREE SHIPPING!

JUNE1382010 | UNITED.COM “I always have my Kindle when I fly. It’s indispensable.” WENDY THOMPSON / 43 / Civil engineer WHY I’M TRAVELING / I’m going home to Washington, D.C. I just finished attending a big furniture conference here in Chicago. I’m trying to figure out what to put in a new building I’m designing. NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT I always have my Kindle. I held off on getting one, but I gave in a few months ago. Now it’s indispensable. I read a lot when I travel, or I do sudoku. I’D RATHER BE FLYING… / With my daughter. She’s sixteen and plays soccer, so we travel all over the country for tournaments. It’s fun and I like soccer, but I’m really a baseball fan. BY ADAM K. RAYMOND PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON GETTING TO KNOW YOU in transit”

We are pleased to enhance your in-flight experience with Choice Menu options available for purchase on most North American flights, excluding This month, we’ve introduced Chocolove.® Made in Boulder, CO of fine Belgian Chocolate, each milk or dark bar is produced in small batches for taste rivaling that of the finest European chocolatiers. So, savor a cocktail, indulge in a snack or save time by having your meal onboard. Whatever your choice, thank you for flying United and please

SALAD $ 9

ON FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS DEPARTING BEFORE 10 AM ce with Choice Menu PARFAIT WRAP

$ 9

Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, shredded parmesan cheese on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, served with classic caesar dressing and croutons on the side.

CROISSANT $ 5

ABOARD!WELCOME

Flavorful ham and swiss cheese on a croissant with dijonnaise sauce

THAI CHICKEN

Specially selected cheeses including monterey jack, havarti dill and cheddar, dried cranberries, almonds and assorted Pepperidge Farm crackers.

Your feedback is welcomed via ualsurvey.com w ithin seven days of your flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if your selection is not available on today’s ﬂight.

PARFAIT

Tender smoked turkey topped with crisp romaine lettuce and sundried tomato aioli sauce on multigrain brea d, accompanied by Kettle Classics WRAP $ 9

Low fat vanilla yogurt served with fruit and a side of granola.

NEWNEWFRUIT AND YOGURT

Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, julienned carrots, red and yellow bell pepper strips and Thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

CHOCOLATE BAR $ 3

CHEESE TRAY $ 6

Gourmet chocolate available in either creamy Milk or intense Dark. ON FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS DEPARTING BETWEEN 10 AM -8 PM SMOOTHIE $ 3

Delicious preservative free blend of 100% mixed fruits and berries. $ 5

Beverage Service is available on most United ﬂights. While we try to ensure that you always receive your ﬁrst choice, actual selections may vary according to availability, class of service or destination. NON-ALCOHOLIC COMP LIMENTARY So ft Drinks PREMIUM ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES Complimentary in United Business ® and United First.® Priced as shown in United Economy.® DomesticWINES flights only: Domestic United Business and United First ma y also choose: Refer to printed menus for additional selections where applicable. BEER, COCKTAILS, SPIRITS, LIQUEURS PREMIUMBEER COCKTAIL LIQUEURSSPIRITS rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. EasyPurchasePAYMENT Only credit/debit cards are accepted. CLASSIC $ 6 Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips Oreo Cookies Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers Sparrer Bee f Salami Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread Pepperidge Farm Crackers LUXE Rondelé$Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread Pepperidge Farm Crackers Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips Wild Garden Hummus Dip Oloves Mediterranean or Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks Asher’s Dark Chocolate Pretzel EAT FOR GOOD $ $ ® Bumble Bee Chicken Salad Pepperidge Farm Crackers Kettle Classics Plain Chips High Energy Trail Mix Drink Mix Immaculate Baking Chocolate Chip Cookies Actual contents may vary slightly. SNACKBOXES AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS BEVERAGES RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK

At United, we do more than connect people and communities. We support causes that address critical community needs. Thank you again for joining United in the fight against hunger. Every Action Counts.SM Give back while you enjoy a great new Snackbox option

“NOURISH OUR KIDS” More than 14 million children in America — nearly 1 in 4 do not know where their next meal is coming from. Nourish Our Kids is a program designed by Feeding America, in partnership with United, to ensure that no child goes hungry.

www.afterschoolmatters.orgwww.feedingamerica.org « Turn the page to enjoy Eat for Good « Turn the page to enjoy

FEEDING AMERICA Through a network of over 200 food banks, Feeding America provides food to over 25 million Americans each year.

Now you can enjoy an exciting new snackbox from United’s Choice Menu. The Eat For Good SM snackbox is a brand new addition to the great snack selections we offer, and it has one added benefit. With every purchase of an Eat For Good snackbox, United will donate $1.00 to support a critical cause-related organization. Funds from our first Eat For Good snackbox will help Feeding America ®— the nation’s leading hunger relief organization — support its “Nourish Our Kids” program.

EAT FOR GOOD SNACKBOXES Each Eat For Good snackbox will be specially designed by a student artist and will be their creative expression of the cause the snackbox will support. This inaugural box envisions “a bountiful harvest” and was designed by Melissa Don, an 18 year old participant in Chicago’s After School Matters program — one of the nation’s largest teen initiatives focused on innovative, meaningful out-of-school activities for youth.

United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine June 2010

Articles inside

Sports A soccer fanatic would give up anything to see the World Cup. Well, almost anything.

In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

Artifact A souvenir from the fi eld

Food & Drink Umami, the hard-to defi ne fi fth fl avor, has food-world tongues wagging.

Hero Howard Schiffer helps make sure children around the world take their vitamins.

The Big Ten Jimmy Cliff, The Twilight Saga and what else to watch, read and listen to this month.

Connections United does its part to reduce and recycle.

Style Not content just to have the fl uffi est pillows, hotels bring fashion to the forefront.

Whereabouts Deepak Chopra unwinds in Goa, India.

Goods

Notes From All Over

Comments

Whirlwind Five hours in Melbourne

Voices Behind the scenes at United