12 pts by Gaumen Hoch

City Talk: The Mayor of Vienna meets Song Contest host – ESC Guide: Highlights of the Grand Prix

City of Vienna – proud Host City of

Leiwåndes Wean

PORTRAITS Musicians, artists, designers

CATEGORIES From Vienna Allstars to Freaky Corners

TIPS Where the locals go

EXPRESSIONS Viennese for Beginners

Vienna’s Voice

Rise Like a Phoenix Conchita Wurst on the most exciting year of her life Merci, Chérie The lyrics of Udo Jürgens’s Song Contest hit to sing along

At this very moment someone is awarding 12 points. To the views of Vienna below.

WWW.VIENNA.INFO

View to the Donau

12pts E DITORIAL

Welcome to Vienna! Douze points – not too long ago it took quite a while for every country to award all their points at the Eurovision Song Contest. Today’s world is much more fast-paced, and so is the voting. Similarly to how the spectators’ level of patience has diminished over time, travellers have developed new demands. If you’re new to a city, you want to reach your destinations as quickly as possible and you want to see not only the touristy sights but also the off-the-beaten-track gems where the locals hang out. Everybody wants to be a traveller, but nobody wants to be a tourist. 12pts knows about this. We take you by the hand and lead you through Vienna. We created 12 categories, each with 12 tips and 12 portraits of truly “leiwånd” Viennese. Everything’s clearly presented and lovingly selected – easy navigation guaranteed. Dive into Vienna and immerse yourself in the city’s charm. We also provide you with useful translations, pointing at differences between the Viennese dialect and Standard German. Only think of expressions like “Aufzwicken” or “L’Amourhatscher”. C O N T E N T Editorial 1 Mayor meets Host 4 Conchita Wurst 10 City Diving 20 G U I D E 21 1 - Vienna Allstars 22 2 - Quickie 30 3 - Wine and Dine 38 4 - 100 decibel 46 5 - Pick up 54 6 - LGBT Vienna 62 7 - Kick-starter 70 8 - Nip and tuck 78 9 - Shop till you drop 86 10 - On Display 94 11 - Urban Nature 102 12 - Freaky Corners 110 D I R E C T O R Y 118 Vienna Survival Kit 120 Imprint 122 Public Transport Map 123 Glossary 124 ESC Guide 126 Merci, Chérie

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E D I T O R I

A We secured no less than Christian Qualtinger as our interpreter. The legitimate successor of Herr Karl L is as much an original as his dad Helmut Qualtinger. The quintessentially Viennese all-round artist, who recently published a comic version of Der Herr Karl, still writes on his old typewriter and personally came by the editorial office, always wearing the same Norwegian jumper, to drop off his manuscripts. He contributed the witty introductions of the 12 categories. We could also get Austrian top-notch photographer Maria Ziegelböck on board, who lensed last year’s ESC winner Conchita Wurst as a modern-day Sissi. The sensational photos are available in a special edition on www.mariaziegelboeck.com. This is Vienna, not only to visit but also to make sense of. Your 12pts team 1

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O N S T A G E

12pts W I E N E R S TA D T H A L L E

On the Scene Let’s have a sneaky peek at the Wiener Stadthalle where The Makemakes from Austria will meet the other artists from this year’s participating countries.

Did you know that ... … construction work for the 60th Eurovision Song Contest at the Wiener Stadthalle lasted around seven weeks? An armada of 350 trucks delivered 3,500 tons of equipment, including 26 cameras, 1,400 spotlights and 20 km of cable. By way of comparison, construction work for the TV show Wetten, dass...? only lasted three weeks. And Lady Gaga arrived with “only” 38 trucks. … the State Opera Ballet, the Vienna Symphony Orchestra and the Vienna Philharmonic performed together at the opening of the Wiener Stadthalle in 1958 and have never collaborated on stage ever since? ... Austrian architect Roland Rainer beat his Finnish competitor Alvar Aalto in the call for tender?

… the Wiener Stadthalle was one of the first European event venues designed to host thousands of guests and consequently became a symbol of reconstruction, political renewal and economic growth? ... 65 million guests have visited the Wiener Stadthalle since its opening?

Céline Dion won the Eurovision Song Contest for Switzerland in 1988.

... the 10,000 m2 rooftop of the Wiener Stadthalle is the biggest roof in Austria? ... the stackable chairs used in the Wiener Stadthalle were designed by Roland Rainer and represent an important part of Viennese design history? Today, vintage editions of the legendary chair achieve top prices at auctions. ... the Wiener Stadthalle was the city’s first major cultural building outside the Wiener Gürtel? ... the place where the Wiener Stadthalle brought entertainment to the city’s inhabitants in the post-war years (and has continued to do so until today) used to be the site of the Schmelzer Cemetery (with graves of the fallen of the March Revolution of 1848) which was later moved to the Central Cemetery? ... Udo Jürgens had more sell-out solo concerts at Halle D than any other star? In total, he gave 33 performances at the Wiener Stadthalle, all of which were almost entirely sold out. ... that this year’s Eurovision Song Contest will be the first one taking place at the Wiener Stadthalle but it’s not the first time that Song Contest participants have played the venue? The most successful winners of the last decades, including ABBA, Celine Dion, Toto Cutugno and Udo Jürgens, have already performed here. •

O N S T A

“Merci, Chérie”, the winning song by Udo Jürgens for Austria in 1966.

G E

After his success in San Remo Toto Cutugno also won the ESC in 1992 for Italy.

“Waterloo” marked the starting point in 1974 for ABBA’s international career and superstar status.

12pts M AYO R M E E T S H O S T

Vienna’s magnetic pull Mayor Michael Häupl and Song Contest host Arabella Kiesbauer have a melange and discuss the Viennese habit of “raunzen” (grumbling, moaning) and the city’s culinary trinity.

V I E

12pts: What makes somebody truly Viennese? Michael Häupl: You’re asking me? I like that. Arabella Kiesbauer: Are you not from Vienna? Häupl: I’m an inland migrant from Lower Austria. I came to Vienna for university. But then I succumbed to the city’s magnetic pull. They say that someone who is truly Viennese has one Bohemian and one Jewish grandmother. The true Viennese are probably one of the most Janus-faced people out there. On the one hand they are extremely happy, friendly, and great hosts. On the other hand they are extremely critical, like to moan and have a flexible attitude toward insulting others. Kiesbauer: Viennese swearing can be a lot of fun. And it can also get pretty rough, quite vulgar actually. But the Viennese manage to bring it across in a subtle way. I lived in Germany for quite some time and it always made people cringe. Then I’d have to say that I don’t really mean it. That’s simply how you talk to each other in Vienna. Häupl: The classic Viennese language can sound really mean even though it’s not – especially when it derives from the “Rotwelsch”, the thieves’ cant. From an administrative point of view,

this can be an advantage. Because it inspires you to question things and make them better. At the same time Vienna regularly scores top marks in international rankings of quality of life. What makes the inhabitants still happy? Häupl: A study conducted by the University of Vienna based on interviews with more than 8,000 locals showed that 97 percent are satisfied or very satisfied with the city. Kiesbauer: That doesn’t sound like moaning. Häupl: They conducted in-depth interviews for this study. That’s when the interviewees showed what they actually think of the city. Kiesbauer: I think the moaning can also be charming and endearing. Ask a Viennese, “How are you?”, and they will respond “Bad” at least once. Even though everything’s just fine. Häupl: Yes, the most you can get in Vienna is, “not bad”. In any other city in the world, it is probably, “great”! The glass is always half empty here. Kiesbauer: That’s also because we like to go to the “Heuriger”, the traditional wine tavern – where the glass really is always half empty. Häupl: The culinary trinity of the coffee house, “Beisl” (pub) and “Heuriger”

“They say that someone who is truly Viennese has one Bohemian and one Jewish grandmother.” certainly contributes a lot to the mental stability of our locals. In general, Vienna has become more respected, welcoming modern, international and happier over the years. This also had to do with the entry into the EU. After the fall of the Iron Curtain, Vienna moved from the margins of the democratic Western world into the centre of Europe. And we can say that we used our chance.

N N A T A L K S

Arabella, you hosted TV shows for teenagers in the 1980s and 1990s. What has changed since then? Kiesbauer: To be fair, I regarded Vienna as a very lively city back then. At the age of 15 and 16, I was already allowed to stay out very late. I think Vienna undersold itself. Maybe it was a bit →

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V I E N N A T A L K S

What makes somebody truly Viennese? Kiesbauer and Häupl try to explain the phenomenon of the city’s inhabitants.

“You can live in the city but it doesn’t take long to get to the vineyards.” sleepy in the 1970s, but when I was around in the 1980s, it was pretty wild. And this has further evolved until today. Häupl: The 1970s were indeed a bit difficult. Those were my student years. We used to travel to Munich to go out. Now people come to Vienna from Munich. And even Berlin. Kiesbauer: Berlin has a great energy though. Häupl: Definitely, I’m a fan of Berlin, even though my old friend Klaus Wowereit is no longer mayor. The deputy of the new mayor told me that the people in Berlin are longing for an almost Biedermeier-like normality. That’s why they love the new mayor so much. Kiesbauer: And Wowereit was too crazy? Häupl: Maybe. I liked him long before

he was mayor, and I appreciated his work for Berlin and other European municipalities. He is a very funny man and our Life Ball visits are almost legendary. Kiesbauer: In costume? Häupl: I always go as myself. So does Klaus. The crucial thing is that he has a good “Schmäh” (the naughty yet friendly humour of the Viennese). Which is quite similar to Berlin. Kiesbauer: Yes, the “Berliner Schnauze” (Berlin rudeness). You both travel a lot. How is Vienna different from other cities? Kiesbauer: We’ve just been in Paris for a Eurovision Song Contest meeting and we immediately moaned about the fact that it takes an hour and a half to get from the airport to the city. We

said, oh my, in Vienna it only takes 20 minutes. And yes, Paris is beautiful, but it’s also much dirtier. Almost every other city is dirtier than Vienna where everything is very clean and well maintained. Even major roads like the “Zweierlinie” are bordered with flower beds. In Berlin, where I went a lot last year, everything is covered in concrete. They simply don’t have the money to maintain it. But you only notice these things once you’ve left. Häupl: Vienna is a green city. And the attention to detail is borrowed from the Italians. Another thing that stands out in Paris and other southern European cities are social problems like homelessness that manifest themselves in the cityscape. Kiesbauer: I flicked through a paper and if you want to rent a 185m2 apartment in the city centre of Paris, it will set you back € 8,000 a month. In Vienna, you can have something nice for much less. Häupl: 62 percent of the Viennese live in social housing. In central London,

12pts MICHAEL HÄUPL Mayor Michael Häupl is originally from Lower Austria. Growing up in a small village, he went to school in Krems and played a lot of football. He went to Vienna to study biology and decided to stay in the city. During his studies, he joined the Socialist Students Association. Later, he was city councillor for Environment and Sports. Häupl is remarried and has a son. He has been mayor and governor of Vienna since 1994.

Mayor Michael Häupl has a front-row seat with ample legroom and a direct view onto the Eurovision Village.

“Vienna is growing by 25,000 inhabitants a year. Building more houses alone isn’t the right answer.” on the other hand, you couldn’t afford rent on an average salary. Also in Paris, you have to move to the suburbs and beyond. Kiesbauer: And then it’ll take an hour minimum to get to work. Because going by car is impossible given the traffic. Häupl: Nobody in Vienna has to move away from the city for social reasons. The reason why fewer and fewer people are moving to the outskirts are the high rents in the Vienna Woods. I moved

“away” years ago. To Ottakring, that’s where the Austria Email (Enamel) factory used to be. I have two tram lines and a bus that goes into the forest just outside my door. Kiesbauer: I love the fact that you can live in the city but it doesn’t take long to get to the vineyards. Vienna is about to become a “Smart City”. Arabella, what do think of that? Kiesbauer: Oh dear, I’ll have to skip

this question. A city that responds to environmental issues? Reduces traffic? I don’t know... Häupl: No, the concept is not limited to ecologisation. A “Smart City” gives simple answers to complicated questions. This has long been a tradition for us. At the end of the 19th century, our water supply was a very complicated issue. The answer: two mountain spring water supply lines. And the answer to housing shortage in the 1920s was the development of public housing. Kiesbauer: But that’s nothing new. Häupl: Today there are more complex questions. Building more houses alone isn’t the right answer to a growing city. Every year, Vienna is growing by at least 25,000 inhabitants. Mobility, education, kindergarten, school, science, research, art, culture, recreation – everything must be adapted to this growth. That also implies the extension of the fibre optic cable network for our growing city without constantly digging holes. However, we can only call ourself a Smart City when all these things benefit everybody. Like our public transport, which costs a euro a day. Name one other city with an offer like this! We also won the Smart City Award for our social considerations. We don’t leave anybody behind!

V I E N N A T A L K S

Building Bridges is the theme of this year’s Eurovision Song Contest and Conchita Wurst stands for tolerance. Arabella, what are your experiences of growing up in Vienna as a black girl? →

12pts AR ABELLA KIESBAUER Arabella Kiesbauer is one of the most prominent TV presenters in the country. Born and raised in Vienna, she started her career in 1987 with the teenage TV show X-Large. In 1995, she became the target of a xenophobically motivated letter bomb, which injured her assistant. In the 1990s, she went to Germany for some time, before returning to Vienna. Kiesbauer is married and has two children. She currently hosts the Austrian version of Farmer Wants a Wife. Together with Mirjam Weichselbraun and Alice Tumler she presents this year’s Eurovision Song Contest.

V I E N N A T A L K S

Kiesbauer: My parents sent me to private school in order to avoid racism as much as possible. There were only a few black people in Vienna. But of course I fell victim to racism. Franz Fuchs sent me a letter bomb. I think it’s still difficult for people with an immigrant background. You clash with people involuntarily. But then again, I’m hosting the TV show Bauer sucht Frau (Austrian version of Farmer Wants a Wife) in a dirndl. I don’t think it would have been possible 20 years ago for a woman – who’s quite obviously not from a farmer’s family – to stand in a cowshed with a dung fork playing Cupid to farmers. Häupl: There’s still a lot to do. I’ve lived in Ottakring for 25 years because I like its diversity. But less than twelve years ago a local politician from a different state said that the slums in Vienna were unbearable, especially the area around the Brunnenmarkt. This man was wrong, not only because there were never any slums in modern Vienna to begin with! Of course I like to take journalists to the Brunnenmarkt and show them how the city has changed. But I’m aware that this doesn’t cover up the problems. Yes, there is racism and anti-Semitism. But it’s less strong. My son barely has any genuine Viennese friends. They are French, Russian, Serbian and Croatian. This is the new normal. Vienna has always

ESC host Arabella Kiesbauer having coffee but no cake on the Mayor’s couch.

“Today there’s a young music scene that is successful abroad. But Austropop was outstanding.” been a melting pot. Just look at a phone book or a cook book. That’s also the reason why my favourite wine is the “Gemischte Satz”, a field blend produced from different grape varieties. It’s symbolic of Vienna. The Life Ball is another sign of tolerance. Häupl: My predecessor, Helmut Zilk was absolutely right to bring the Life Ball into the Town Hall. Today, it’s become even more important than

the Opera Ball in terms of tourism. At the beginning this was different of course. Kiesbauer: But 23 years ago the Life Ball was also different to what it is today. It must have been Zilk’s genuine concern, rather than thinking about how to promote tourism for the city. Häupl: Yes, that’s right. And many didn’t approve of his decision. Today, most Viennese are happy to host the Eurovision Song Contest. It certainly boosts the economy. Like the Life Ball.

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V I E N N A Mayor Häupl reveals his favourite Heurigen in his home district Ottakring to Arabella Kiesbauer and to the 12pts readers.

Only look at the TV ratings. The Life Ball comes third after the New Year’s Concert and the Summer Night Concert of The Vienna Philharmonic at Schönbrunn Palace. How has the local music scene developed since the heyday of “Austropop”? Kiesbauer: Today there’s a young music scene whose protagonists sing in German and which is successful abroad. But Austropop was outstanding. It was very Viennese. Still, many people know Falco’s lyrics by heart even today. I’m one of them. Häupl: Personally, I wouldn’t claim to understand anything of today’s music. I can only follow the lyrics of rappers. Therefore, I don’t say anything about Conchita’s music either. But I do understand her political messages. And I, too, want a city of tolerance, peaceful coexistence and no marginalization. You have to keep on preaching these things. The things that were said

“I do understand Conchita’s political message. And I, too, want a city of tolerance.” about Conchita when she was selected for the Song Contest were unbearable. Think about the really disgraceful, intolerable insults from the far right, particularly from Russia. Kiesbauer: There was a massive front against her. Häupl: It was almost like politics. Victory has a thousand fathers, but defeat is an orphan. Do you have a personal Vienna tip for the readers? Häupl: I definitely recommend a visit to a Heuriger, for example Stippert (1160, Ottakringerstraße 225) where the wine grows on the doorsteps. And a trip to the Kahlenberg. It offers splendid

views which you don’t get in the city centre, because there are no high-rise buildings. We do pay a lot of attention to our architectural history after all. Vienna gets a modern cityscape above the Danube and in Simmering. Vienna is not only the Hofburg. Vienna is more. Kiesbauer: I also like to look at cities from above. For example from the attic at 25hours Hotel overlooking the first district. Or in the cafe at Haus des Meeres. A proper Beisl is awesome, too. I can recommend Gasthaus Kopp (1200, Engerthstraße 104) in the 20th district where the waste collector sits next to the doctor, both eating schnitzel and potato salad with the exact same gusto. •

T A L K S

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Rise Like a Phoenix C O N C H I TA W U R S T

Text: Marie-Theres Stremnitzer Photography: Maria Ziegelbรถck

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“This night is dedicated to everyone who believes in a future of peace and freedom. You know who you are. We are a unity and we are unstoppable.”

fter her victory at last year’s Eurovision Song Contest in Copenhagen, Conchita Wurst held her trophy high up in the air and dedicated it to everybody who is fighting for peace and freedom. In this very moment, Conchita Wurst became a statement. Before, she had already been a political issue: officials from several countries tried to have her performance banned. Russian men shaved their beards off in protest, and the Austrian Facebook page “No to Conchita Wurst at the Song Contest” gained more than 35,000 supporters. Conchita performed her song “Rise Like a Phoenix” anyway. And with her statement, the political significance of the event that takes place behind the scenes of the Song Contest shifted into the public arena. Conchita simply turned the tables and smiled at all those conceited critics by presenting her point of view. Today she meets the most powerful people in the world, such as UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon, speaks at the European Parliament, is friends with artists including Jean Paul Gaultier and Karl Lagerfeld and discusses her agenda in highprofile interviews and talk shows. Nevertheless, this does not change who Conchita Wurst is: a young man whose alter ego is a woman with a beard. An artistic creation that managed to cause a world-wide stir at a time when most sources for provocation seem to be exhausted, because her appearance is irritating and seductive at the same time. Because the man behind Conchita insists that he feels comfortable in his body and never wanted to be a woman. “The most beautiful women’s clothes fit me like a glove, and over time I tried out more and more. Clothes, wigs and make-up, the lascivious game of seduction. I noticed how women and men caught fire on this fine line of erotic pleasure.”

C The persona Conchita Wurst was born for Kitty Willenbruch’s burlesque revue in Vienna. Willenbruch was looking for a conférencier and hired Tom Neuwirth for the position. Her stage name, Conchita is reserved for the sweetest and sexiest women in Cuba, and a term that stands for female genitalia. And speaking of telling names, her last name Wurst, means “sausage” in English. An allusion to the penis, and moreover an idiomatic expression in Austria. “Es ist wurst”, employing “wurst” as an adjective, means that something simply does not matter. In Conchita’s context, however, it does not represent a form of indifference but, quite to the contrary, a confirmation of tolerance. Because it is “wurst”, it does not matter, what you look like, where you come from or who you are. And because it is not “wurst”, it does matter, if you are discriminated against it. Neuwirth can tell many stories about discrimination and abuse. It is hard to believe that any boy (or girl for that matter) who was born a year before the Wall fell could still be crushed between tradition and modernity. In Bad Mitterndorf in Styria, Tom Neuwirth was raised by tolerant parents in a safe environment. Some inhabitants of his home town, however, do not approve of Conchita even today, despite the ironic fact that she has been named honorary citizen. Tom’s parents run a traditional country inn, serving dinner between 5 and 8 pm. They wear traditional costumes at work – and have a son who wears women’s dresses and a beard. This is a huge balancing act in a village where everybody knows about what is going on in their neighbours’ houses. “I’m sure that my mother and my father weren’t indifferent to the opinions of the town’s inhabitants. [...] Today, I deeply respect the fact that my parents succeeded in overcoming this almost insurmountable gap between the expectations of society and their own feelings,” →

Conchita Wurst stands for provocation, art, tolerance and social change. The Eurovision Song Contest winner Tom Neuwirth from Austria has now penned an autobiography called Being Conchita: We are Unstoppable telling the story of her remarkable career. Published on May 7, John Blake Publishing.

O N C H I T A W U R S T

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Conchita explains in her autobiography. Until puberty set in, nobody cared that Tom liked to dress up in his fairytale dresses which he made himself and sing his little heart out in the family attic. What followed was “an uncertainty in my life that I hadn’t known before. [...] Young people have a sixth sense for spotting someone who’s ‘different’, and in a time when everyone wants to be the same, this is a dirty word. [...] At some point, many of the boys came to the conclusion that something was wrong with Tom. While they weren’t able to pin it down, there was still a word for it: gay.” As a teenager he escaped to the city, Graz, where he attended fashion school. But life at the boarding school was not exactly a walk in the park either. Bullying was omnipresent. While the girls loved him, the boys insulted him – until his parents decided to put their 15-year-old son into a small apartment owned by a single lady. Suddenly he was responsible for doing the cooking, washing and cleaning. “My parents didn’t just loosen the purse strings. They helped me with the monthly rent but the rest I had to pay myself,” says Conchita. Tom Neuwirth is certainly somebody who wants and needs attention. Success is a form of satisfaction for the outsider who wants to prove everybody from school wrong. And Conchita Wurst clearly did not just appear out of nowhere with her song “Rise Like a Phoenix”. Still in school, Neuwirth wanted to perform on stage as a singer, so he participated in the ORF talent show Starmania and made it to the finals. He became part of the boyband “jetzt anders!” which did not manage to electrify its audiences and frankly speaking, even the band members did not really gel. “The illusion that something big develops at random remains an illusion. I believe in ideas that

“I believe in ideas that come from your heart, coupled with hard work, discipline, sustainability and 10,000 hours dedicated to a single thing”

C O N C H I

come from your heart, coupled with hard work, discipline, sustainability and 10,000 hours dedicated to a single thing.” It was in the family attic where Neuwirth spent most of his childhood and youth. There he completed his 10,000 training hours. “If you dedicate four hours of the day to your dream – and that’s not even a lot for an ambitious singer – you’ve reached your target within 2,500 days. I don’t think that I’m a high flyer, even though it appears this way to many people after my victory at the Eurovision Song Contest. For those who hadn’t known me before, I was like a phoenix from the ashes stepping into the limelight. If we stick to the metaphor of the mystical bird, we must not forget that a phoenix already had a life before. In this past life I didn’t have the life of a high flyer despite all my hard work.”

T A W U R S T

Today, Conchita combines business with pleasure and lives her dreams. She travels from one photo shoot to the next, and has worked with the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Carine Roitfeld and the artist duo Pierre Commoy and Gilles Blanchard. For one week she performed at the Crazy Horse in Paris alongside the most beautiful dancers in the city – a project that tied in with her life before the Eurovision Song Contest: a life that took place at the vaudeville, performing in a cabaret show with Kitty Willenbruch and Jacques Patriaque in a tiny bar in Margareten called Arena. →

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“With fashion we can underline our inner beauty on the outside. This is its function and that’s why I’m so infatuated with it.” C O N C H I T A W U R S T

Why should we “first work and only afterwards have fun? Are we not going to be too tired by then? Will we still have desires? Is this the reason why so many people are running around with grief-stricken faces? Is it because they have abandoned pleasure from their lives?” Just as is often the case in Vienna, once you have reached international fame, you will also be recognised in your own country. At this year’s Austrian Music Awards, she won three prizes including “Artist of the Year”. These days, Neuwirth brings the phenomenon Conchita Wurst to cities like Paris and London, and hopefully also to less liberal-minded corners of the world. No matter where she goes she communicates her clear objectives: tolerance, acceptance, “and eventually a Grammy”. For the cult TV show Durch die Nacht mit... (Through the night with...), the Franco-German TV channel Arte accompanied her and Jean Paul Gaultier to Vienna. They visited the Sisi Museum, took a ride on the Ferris wheel and ended the night at a traditionally Viennese hot dog stand – with a Käsekrainer (cheesy sausage), spicy mustard and a beer. It was a magical haute couture moment at the hot dog stand. Styling and appearance are important to Conchita. “Maybe because my grandmother always put great emphasis on a well-groomed appearance. It signals respect to others, she used to say. And, of course, because fashion is art worn by humans. [...] We can be beautiful from within. [...] And with fashion we can underline our inner beauty on the outside. This is its function and that’s why I’m so infatuated with it.” And because Vienna might not be a capital of fashion but it is an epicentre of music, Conchita and Gaultier were soon joined at the hot dog stand by countless spectators and three musicians

“with a bass and violins who gave a jazzy rendition of Rise Like a Phoenix.” In her autobiography Conchita focuses on small anecdotes and the big steps in her career. Is it too early at an age of 26, one could ask. But why wait until you are in your seventies? People are interested in what she has to say now, no matter if they embrace or reject it. Let us hope that her topics will not be of interest anymore when she has reached the age of 70. Let us hope that by then her mission will be accomplished. If you take a look at Conchita’s Facebook page you will realise that it still has a long way to go. Insults, curses and malicious comments fill you with a dull sense of shame – even if the expressions of love and affection outnumber the negative ones. People who proudly publish a photo with their children on their profiles and give free rein to their resentments give little hope that these kids will grow up in an environment of tolerance. Conchita Wurst’s critics oftentimes express their concerns in relation to children. How should they explain this to the little ones? Fact is, however, that they are only worried because they fail to offer explanations for themselves. No child struggles to make a simple statement like “This is a man with a beard” because through children’s eyes, everything is still possible. In their magic phase, children become a princess, a lion or a race car driver within seconds. Their parents have ceased to possess these magical thinking abilities. For Tom Neuwirth alias Conchita Wurst this magical phase never stops. •

Conchita W. Prime Edition by Maria Ziegelböck All images from the series can be ordered online at www.mariaziegelboeck.com/editions

12pts CITY DIVING

Getting lost in Vienna! Vienna Tourist Board CEO Norbert Kettner has temporarily changed his job. He calls himself a “Bademeister”, a lifeguard. His recommendation to the Song Contest family: dive into this city of contrasts!

B E I N S I D E

he entire office of the Vienna Tourist Board has recently moved from a charming, old palace overlooking the magnificent Augarten to a modern, glass-walled office building in a downtown mall. An intelligent bridge between the old and new – this is also how you could describe the job of the most important ad man for Vienna, Norbert Kettner. “Vienna is a beautiful, historic city, but it’s not an open-air museum. We are not deadlocked,” he emphasises. Conchita plays an important role in a country like Austria, which has been ascribed a very conservative image. “It shows the various life concepts that a place permits. If Conchita had won for the Netherlands or Sweden, it would have been almost logical.” The surprise effect in particular was a big win for Vienna. Conchita has brought the Song Contest to Austria in the same year as the 150th anniversary of the Vienna Ring Road. “Two very beautiful antipodes,” Kettner says. The event demonstrates that Vienna is an epicentre of all kinds of music genres. Every day, 10,000 Viennese visit classical concerts. At the same time, the city stands for electronic music, its visualist scene and a boom of new Viennese music represented by acts like Wanda. Kettner’s intention: Vienna should stick in everybody’s memory as the most hospitable host in ESC history – because the city’s tourism experts have done their research and know that the delegations weren’t treated well everywhere. “Often it was all about megalomania. They forgot about the

spirit.” In collaboration with the ORF, the Vienna Tourist Board offers the so-called “Trips for Free”, a series of 100 side events for everyone who is accredited, from bungee jumping to an opera visit. Kettner himself volunteers as a swimming pool supervisor for the Eurovision Song Contest family and recommends diving into the city. Allow yourself to get lost here. “Similar to Tokyo you can get lost here and you’ll still be safe,” Kettner assures. To help us remember and to share our experiences with the rest of the world, he’s asking everybody to use the hashtag #welovevienna during their urban explorations. And the temporary swimming pool supervisor knows very well that guests also need personal tips on the principle of “live like a local”. His analysis: “There are a billion travelers

around the world, but nobody wants to be a tourist. Think temporary inhabitants instead.” He recommends plunging into the outskirts of Vienna to discover places like the art off space Brotfabrik in the 10th district, or a Heuriger in the countryside. Kettner also regards the campus of the Vienna University of Economics and Business as an exciting new district. The Prater is another destination worth visiting even though it is oftentimes underestimated by locals. But he has already got used to the different perceptions of the city, both nationally and internationally. Yet, there are some things that everybody agrees on. For instance the fact that Vienna is the largest university city in the German-speaking area and the third fastest growing city in Europe. “All sorts of talents are welcome here, that’s for sure.” •

Echt Wean Vienna Allstars

Page 22

Auf de Gache Quickie

Page 30

Habern und Tschechern Wine and Dine

Page 38

Krawäu und L’Amourhatscher 100 decibel

Page 46

U I D E -

Aufzwicken Pick up

Page 54

Vom åndern Ufa LGBT Vienna

Page 62

L E I

Kaffeeheiser Kick-starter

Page 70

G’schneizt und G’kamplt Nip and tuck

Page 78

Fetzen und Tand Shop till you drop

Page 86

Ausg’stöht On Display

W Å N D E S W

Page 94

E A

Greanes Wean Urban Nature

Page 102

Oarges Wean Freaky Corners

Page 110

12pts

⑴

J. & L. LOBMEYR

⑵

SCHELLA KANN

⑶ FRUTH

⑷

CARL AUBÖCK

⑸

GARTENBAUKINO

⑹ KNIZE

⑺

RUDOLF SCHEER & SÖHNE

⑻

ALTMANN & KÜHNE

⑼

OTTAKRINGER BRAUEREI

⑽

MÜHLBAUER

Echt Wean 22

Vienna Allstars

⑾

MANNER SHOP

⑿

AUGARTEN PORZELLAN

Der Nino aus Wien Musician

12pts

The so-called “Schanigarten”, tables and chairs set up on the “Trottoir”, the pavement in front of restaurants and bars, is part of the real Vienna, “dem echten Wien”. Add a few hedges and parasols to shield the guests from the outside world and the picture is complete. Here you will be served by “Schani” meaning “Jean” (pronounced the French way), a popular name for valets de chambre from former times. Some days, it can be as beautiful as Hawaii. But there are no sharks in the Schanigarten. And if you see fish, they are most likely to be breaded, “paniert”.

Nino Mandl had a challenging background, sniffing glue and stealing bicycles. At least that’s what has been written about him many times ... continued on page 29

V I E N N A A L L S T A R S

12pts 1010 Vienna – Kärntnerstraße

J. & L. Lobmeyr

⑴

Experience the subtle difference in glassware at Lobmeyr. This traditional glass specialist, which still runs its own chandelier, polishing and engraving workshops, has any style your heart may desire, from delicate hand-blown ornamental glass to polished glass and chandeliers. Top-quality china and tableware round off the selection with an Austrian touch by classic designers like Adolf Loos and Oswald Haerdtl, as well as contemporary artists including Polka, Florian Ladstätter, Sebastian Menschhorn and Tino Valentinitsch.

V I E N N A

J. &

L O B M E Y R

Kärntner Straße 26 1010 Vienna Stephansplatz +43 1 5120508-88 www.lobmeyr.at Mon – Fri 10:00am – 7:00pm Sat 10:00am – 6:00pm

A L L S T A R S

1010 Vienna – Spiegelgasse

Schella Kann

⑵ The flagship store of local fashion label Schella Kann is located in an art deco house in the middle of the first district. For 30 years designers Anita Aigner and Gudrun Windischbauer have enriched the Viennese fashion scene with their sartorial creations. What started as a fashion gala at night club U4 is now a proper business with a shop, a workshop and numerous corporate partnerships. From hotels and restaurants to shops and surgeries – all sorts of businesses get their uniforms supplied by the innovative fashion brand. Defying common trends, the duo is known for unusual silhouettes and sharp tailoring, a black and white colour palette and signature materials including felt and wool. In addition to their main collecS C H E L L A K A N N tion the duo has a diffusion line Spiegelgasse 15 called “Schella Kann 2” focusing on 1010 Vienna elastic and wash-and-wear materials. Stephansplatz “Just put the pieces into the washing +43 1 9972755 machine, hang them up to dry and www.schellakann.com wear right after,” says Anita Aigner. It Mon – Fri 11:00am – 6:00pm cannot get any easier! Sat 11:00am – 5:00pm

12pts 1040 Vienna – Kettenbrückengasse

Fruth ⑶ Chocolaterie pâtisserie au marché F R U T H Kettenbrückengasse 20 1040 Vienna Kettenbrückengasse +43 664 1432243 Tue – Fri 11:00am – 7:00pm Sat 9:00am – 5:00pm Wiedner Hauptstraße 114 1050 Vienna Hauptbahnhof +43 676 9522880 Tue – Fri 11:00am – 7:00pm www.fruth.at

Fine confectionery with a master touch: here you’ll find exclusive pâtisserie by master pastry chef Eduard A. Fruth, along with seductive delicacies made of chocolate, marzipan and fruit. Every mousse, every single one of the sweets, is a tiny work of art. The small shop looks like a doll’s house with its vintage-style display cabinets -- full of one of the sweetest and most exquisite chocolate secrets Vienna has to offer.

1070 Vienna – Bernardgasse

Carl Auböck

V I E N

⑷ In the early 1940s Austrian architect and designer Carl Auböck was already developing his own signature style for refined everyday objects, which would bring him world fame after the war. Today in the fourth generation, the Carl Auböck Workshops are still producing, with the same high quality of workmanship, a range of C A R L A U B Ö C K accessories made of Bernardgasse 23 brass, horn and 1070 Vienna leather, along with Thaliastraße additional Auböck +43 1 5236631-33 classics, all of which www.werkstaette-carlauboeck.at can also be ordered by appointment by catalogue.

1010 Vienna – Parkring

Gartenbaukino

⑸

N A A L L S T A R S

A lively, vibrant artefact, a souvenir of a bygone cinematic era, the Gartenbaukino on Stubenring – reconstructed in 1960 – huddles among the buildings of the old city centre. G A R T E N B A U K I N O In the lavish foyer and Parkring 12 huge theatre with more 1010 Vienna Stubentor than 700 seats, contempoStadtpark rary films gallop toward +43 1 5122354 the future of cinema. www.gartenbaukino.at Gala premieres and revivals of old cinematic treasures take place here, and it is also the main venue for Austria’s most important film festival, the Viennale.

12pts 1010 Vienna – Graben

Mode-Atelier Knize

Once the world’s leading men’s fashion label with celebrity clients like Oskar Kokoschka, Billy Wilder, Charlie Chaplin and Marlene Dietrich, Knize fashion studio today is the first choice for fashion classics like dress coats, morning coats and blazers and above all exclusive bespoke suits of the finest K N I Z E workmanship. Graben 13 In addition, Knize fashion studio 1010 Vienna offers its own line of colognes. The Stephansplatz shop on Wiener Graben is also famous +43 1 5122119 for its doorway, which Adolf Loos, www.knize.at taking into account considerations of Mon – Fri 9:30am – 6:00pm architectural sales psychology, provided with a low doorway as Sat 10:00am – 5:00pm far back as 1910.

V I E N N A A L L S T

1010 Vienna – Bräunerstraße

Rudolf Scheer & Söhne

⑺

Accomplished shoemaking in the imperial tradition since 1816. Classic high-end handmade bespoke shoes fashion for gentlemen and ladies, ranging from boots to golf shoes, comprise the most important part of the product line at Scheer & Söhne. The long-established shoemakers also offer their own extravagant shoe designs, leather care accessories and jewellery – all in line with the modern dandy’s tastes. The R U D O L F S C H E E R & S Ö H N E shop’s original Bräunerstraße 4 furnishings breathe 1010 Vienna understated Stephansplatz elegance and 19th +43 1 5338084 century etiquette. www.scheer.at Mon – Fri 10:00am – 6:00pm Sat 10:00am – 5:00pm

A R

⑹

1010 Vienna – Am Graben

Confiserie Altmann & Kühne ⑻ This delightful shop is a popular spot for gifts with genuine Viennese flair, carrying creative, lovingly packaged confectionary. The boxes for the famous “Liliput-Konfekt” are based on paper designs by the Wiener Werkstätte and the A L T M A N N & K Ü H N E range of containers – Am Graben 30 in the form of small 1010 Vienna chests, drawers and Stephansplatz sewing kits – is quite +43 1 5330927 simply charming. www.altmann-kuehne.at Go there and get Mon – Fri 9:00am – 6:30pm your very own little Sat 10:00am – 5:00pm piece of Vienna.

12pts 1160 Vienna – Ottakringer Platz

Ottakringer Brauerei In the west of the city where green spaces are more spacious and streets still wider, you’ll find the only remaining brewery in Vienna. Using only Austrian barley, the Ottakringer brewery produces 53 million litres of beer every year. Awarded the AMA quality label, it is the second-most popular beer brand in Vienna, offering fifteen different types of beer, including three craft beers (Bond, IPA, Porter) that are sold under the label “Brauwerk”. The historical Hefeboden (meaning yeast floor) is a popular destination for both locals and visitors, hosting club nights, design fairs and concerts. In 2014 more than 250,000 people visited the event location. During the Eurovision Song Contest it will host the “Euro Club” inviting artists, journalists and delegates for press events and parties. 1010 Vienna – Seilergasse

⑼

V I E O T T A K R I N G E R

B R A U E R E I

Ottakringer Platz 1 1160 Vienna Ottakring

+43 1 491000 www.ottakringerbrauerei.at Ottakringer Shop Mon – Fri 9:00am – 7:00pm Sat 9:00am – 6:00pm

Mühlbauer Hutmanufaktur seit 1903

⑽

The name Mühlbauer has been synonymous with high-quality hat fashion in Vienna since 1903. And ever since the founders’ greatgrandson Klaus Mühlbauer, a skilled milliner himself, took over the time-honoured hat business, flashy, unconventional designs have been the order of the day, combined with new materials and M Ü H L B A U E R forms. Seilergasse 10 The milliners 1010 Vienna used to work Stephansplatz together with the Austrian designers Ute Ploier and superated, as well +43 1 5122241 as the jewellery designer Florian Ladstätter, with whom they created www.muehlbauer.at a special-edition headdress. Mon – Fri 10:00am – 6:30pm A new branch has recently opened in the middle of the fashion and Sat 10:00am – 6:00pm creative industries district at Neubaugasse 34 (U3 Neubaugasse).

L L S T A R S

12pts 1010 Vienna – Stephansplatz

Manner Shop

⑾

“Chocolate for everyone”, Josef Manner demanded in 1890, and founded a chocolate factory. His most important invention, the Neapolitan Wafer No. 239, was an instant hit, and is still a Vienna classic today. The Manner shop next to the cathedral is intended to be reminiscent of Manner’s first shop at Stephansplatz 6. Apart from original Manner Neapolitan wafers in their familiar pink wrappers, Manner sells all sorts of fun merchandising articles – all in a shop with a pink and chocolate-brown interior designed by BWM architects.

V I E N

M A N N E R

S H O P

Stephansplatz 7 1010 Vienna Stephansplatz

+43 1 5137018 www.manner.at Mon – Sun 10:00am – 9:00pm

A L L S T A R S

1020 Vienna – Obere Augartenstraße

Augarten Porzellan 300 years of tradition and still up to date. This description definitely matches the brand DNA of the Augarten Porcelain Manufactory whose headquarters and factory have been located in the Augarten, a 52-acre park within walking distance of the city centre, since 1923. Augarten manufactures china, vases, lamps, figurines and other decorative items, all of which enjoy great popularity abroad. Whatever isn’t exported straight to Japan, the US or the UK, is sold in stores in Vienna, Linz and Salzburg. The factory is also open to the public. Visitors can book one of the daily guided tours to take a peek behind the production process. The newly renovated porcelain museum also exhibits objects from bygone eras. Collaborating with young designers including Thomas Feichtner, Marco Dessi, Gottfried Palatin and the fashion duo Wendy&Jim, the brand Augarten is more modern than ever and repeats its success from past eras in the 21st century too.

A U G A R T E N

⑿

P O R Z E L L A N

Obere Augartenstraße 1A 1020 Vienna Taborstraße +43 1 21124200 www.augarten.at Mon – Sat 10:00am – 6:00pm

12pts D E R N I N O AU S W I E N – M U S I C I A N

Nocturnal walks Café Falk Wagramerstraße 137, 1220 Vienna +43 1 203312 U1 Kagraner Platz The only place in the city that’s open 365 days a year and 24 hours a day offering a hot meal, breakfast and drinks at all times. Only at Christmas it closes for two hours.

Copa Cagrana Party mile along the Donauinsel U1 Donauinsel A totally underrated area. Yes, it might be ugly there, but it can also be very beautiful. There are proposed plans to demolish it. Serbs and Turks love to go there, and I love to be there with them.

Top Ten arcade in the Prater Straße des Ersten Mai 110, 1020 Vienna U1, U2 Praterstern

DER NINO AUS WIEN Nino Mandl had a challenging background, sniffing glue and stealing bicycles. At least that’s what has been written about him many times. He’s penned many tales and stories, and this, so he says, is one of them. Somehow it has taken on a life of its own. But as a musician you have to provide for some sort of entertainment. And he considers mankind itself rather boring. In fact, he had a happy childhood in Hirschstetten, northeast of the Danube. But maybe this is just another story. Recently he and Ernst Molden released the album Unser Österreich (Our Austria) with cover versions of Austrian pop songs.

One of my personal hotspots in Vienna. Here you can spend a lot of money but only if you have coins. I come here regularly to play my favourite sport: air hockey. I’m a musician after all, and musicians are not particularly athletic.

lot has been written about Nino from Vienna, which is no surprise. At the tender age of 27, he has already released seven albums. The latest two were even released simultaneously. Bäume (Trees) with acoustic guitar and Träume (Dreams) with electric guitar. His songs are filled with everyday poetry. They are thoughtful, humorous and sometimes a bit rough. His lyrics appear to be written spontaneously, in fleeting moments. Thoughts wandering in his mind, turning left, turning right, and suddenly becoming words. But despite the Viennese melancholy that manifests itself in his melodies and word garlands, he will always have this roguish quality to him, a sense of humour about himself and the world. When he stands on stage with his guitar, singing his songs, you will feel like you have just danced the night away with him and are now on your way home, strolling down the streets in the early dawn. Maybe you’re pushing a bike, your mind is free and at peace. Late at night, while we are lying in bed and slowly sobering up we forget about our intellectual flights. Nino’s songs, however, will make sure that we won’t forget about them at this late hour. Perhaps it is because the

P O R T R A I

musician is most productive during this part of the day: zigzagging through the city at the magic hour when night and day begin to blend. At the age of 17, Nino taught himself to play the guitar, because of his love for the Beatles and his urge to write songs himself. “It’s a simple instrument and I write simple music, too. That’s why.” He has never learned how to read music because there’s no necessity for it. His musical career is a continuation of his times as a poetry slammer. Most of his conversations with journalists remain in interview format, presumably because Nino himself knows best how to describe himself with words. Journalists and music critics have been trying to find comparison ever since he emerged onto the music scene, constantly throwing in new names to the mix, but to no avail. It is and will indeed continue to be difficult to classify Nino. And that’s a good thing, for Nino from Vienna is what the Viennese love most: an original.

On May 19, he and fellow musician Ernst Molden perform cover songs of famous Austrian pop songs in Baden (a town south of Vienna) at Cinema Paradiso. Beginning: 8 pm.

12pts

⑴

ZUM GSCHUPFTN FERDL

Hot & New!

⑵

CHIQ CHAQ

⑶

TRZESNIEWSKI

⑷

NABER KAFFEE

⑸

SCHWARZES KAMEEL

⑹

ZUCKERLWERKSTATT

⑺

HILDEGARD WURST

⑻

UNGER UND KLEIN

⑼

EIS-GREISSLER

⑽

JOSEPH BROT

Auf de Gache 30

Quickie

Hot & New!

⑾

TANZEN ANDERS

Hot & New!

⑿

BASTEI 10

Maria Ziegelböck Photographer

12pts

Believe it or not, the concept of fast food originates in the Orient. When caravans stopped at the so-called caravanserai (imagine a desert motorway service area), dozens, sometimes hundreds of travellers and their animals had to be fed and watered. The operators of the roadside inns knew how to cater for the travellers’ needs in a quick and efficient manner. These travel groups have, however, never made it all the way to Vienna since it isn’t adjacent to any desert…

Q U I C K I E

Maria Ziegelböck has longterm collaborations with artist group Gelatin and fashion designer Bernhard Willhelm and works at the intersection of fashion and portraiture. She learned her craft at her mother’s photo studio in Upper Austria. ... continued on page 37

12pts 1060 Vienna – Windmühlgasse

Zum Gschupftn Ferdl

⑴

The creative team around Moritz Piffl-Percevic and Mike Lanner have dusted off the image of the traditional Austrian wine-tavern known as Heuriger and created a modern version of it: Zum Gschupftn Ferdl, complete with a pixel-style bar, paper parlour and jukebox that plays old Viennese chansons. Located on a side street of the Mariahilfer Straße, Vienna’s main shopping mile, this next-level Heuriger offers typically Austrian dishes including organic dry-cured sausages, mountain cheese and exquisite bacon. Chef Parvin Razavi also prepares Schlipfkrapfen (filled potato dough) for dinner and organic grilled chicken on Sundays. Organic vodka from Upper Austria and the Viennese wine specialty Wiener Gemischter Satz accompany your meal. A spring must-have is the Uhudler, a Rosé Cuvée from the south of Burgenland.

Q U I C K I E

Z U M

G S C H U P F T N

F E R D L

Windmühlgasse 20 1060 Vienna Neubaugasse +43 1 9663066 www.zumgschupftnferdl.at Mon – Sat 4:00pm – 2:00am

1060 Vienna – Linke Wienzeile

Hot & New!

Chiq Chaq

Burger mania had only just started when David Gevorkian and Eduard Kiperman entered Vienna’s restaurant scene. In August 2013 they opened Chiq Chaq, an American diner on Nussdorfer Straße which relies on high-quality fast food with organic ingredients. The concept proved popular and the duo opened a second restaurant at the former location of the Theatercafé at the Naschmarkt. The menu offers beef, crispy chicken and veggie burgers and the customers can add personal requests to their orders: they fill in a form to specify doneness, side dishes, sauces and further upgrades. The Smoked Burger is known as Chiq Chaq’s signature dish. Served under a cloche the fragrant smoke unfolds in front of the guest at the table.

⑵ Healthy options like the Persian Perversian (dates, walnuts, goat cheese) and the Panamerican (avocado, tomato, mozzarella) will keep every salad lover happy. Of course you’ll also find the classic Caesar Salad at this Austro-American Diner. A special feature of the branch at the Naschmarkt is the attached Pech Bar with its DJ sets and Hip Hop nights – a favourite among night owls and cocktail lovers. Unlike the market stalls at the Naschmarkt, the Pech Bar only closes late after midnight. The Chiq Chaq owners who graduated from the Vienna International School chose the Naschmarkt for their second branch because of its gastronomic diversity. “Nowhere else in Vienna can you C H I Q C H A Q meet people Linke Wienzeile 6 from so many 1060 Vienna countries,” they Karlsplatz say. That’s true for stallholders, +43 1 5856262 restaurant www.chiqchaq.at owners – and Mon – Sat 11:00am – midnight their guests.

12pts 1010 Vienna – Dorotheergasse

Trzesniewski

⑶

Wholegrain bread with exquisite spreads, freshly made every day at the very same spot for more than 100 years: that is what you’ll find at the legendary snack bar with the unpronounceable name Trzesniewski. 22 different kinds of spreads, most of them prepared with eggs, are on sale at its eight Vienna branches. The bestknown and most popular is the original shop on Dorotheergasse. Impossible T R Z E S N I E W S K I to imagine a stroll through the 1st district Dorotheergasse 1 without ending up at Trzesniewski’s 1010 Vienna for a small Pfiff beer and a few sandwiches. Stephansplatz Ingenious cartoonist Tex Rubi+43 1 5123291 nowitz is responsible for Trzesniewski’s www.trzesniewski.at advertising. Mon – Fri 8:30am – 7:30pm Sat 9:00am – 5:00pm

1010 Vienna – Wipplingerstraße

Naber Kaffee

⑷

The first Naber coffeehouse on Wipplingerstraße opened in 1955 and has since been carefully and lovingly renovated by junior patron Ernst Naber. There is a shop and stand-up cafe at the front and a coffeehouse at the rear. It’s not only the delicious coffee from one of the last Vienna roasting houses that draws visitors here. Stepping into this Viennese gem is like taking a step back in time.

Q U I C K

N A B E R

K A F F E E

Wipplingerstraße 25 1010 Vienna Herrengasse +43 1 5330343 www.naberkaffee.com

I E

Mon – Fri 8:00am – 6:00pm

1010 Vienna – Bognergasse

Schwarzes Kameel

⑸

Since Baptist Cameel opened a spice shop at Bognergasse 5 in 1618 and named it after his four-legged namesake, the camel, the venue has been a magnet for Viennese epicures. Today it is a troika of patisserie, delicatessen and restaurant / buffet whose historical art nouveau ambience is an eyecatcher itself. S C H W A R Z E S

K A M E E L

Bognergasse 5 1010 Vienna Stephansplatz Herrengasse +43 1 5338125 www.kameel.at Mon – Sun 8:00am – midnight

12pts 1010 Vienna – Herrengasse

Zuckerlwerkstatt

⑹

What happens if you fall in love with a candy shop on your holidays? Mary Scholz and Christian Mayer have the answer. After a trip to Holland, the lawyer and the singer learned the candy trade and opened their own candy shop in Vienna’s city centre. Today they produce Seidenzuckerl (candy filled with cocoa), herbal candies and the ever-popular fruit mix, following traditional recipes and using high-quality ingredients including Z U C K E R L W E R K S T A T T real bourbon vanilla, essential Herrengasse 6-8 peppermint oil and fresh cocoa 1010 Vienna powder. Herrengasse Every day they manufacture +43 1 8909056 30 to 50 kilograms of candy in www.zuckerlwerkstatt.at an open show kitchen that attracts and amazes children Mon – Sat 10:00am – 6:00pm and adults alike. 1040 Vienna – Operngasse

Q U I C K I E

Hildegard Wurst

⑺

The story of Hildegard Wurst begins in 2012 with a fiery red Piaggio Ape. Leonie Mayer-Rieckh and Matthias Hofer used it as a hot dog truck at events, markets and parties. The crowd loved it and eventually Hildegard Wurst found a permanent space – in the creative Freihaus district near the city centre. At Operngasse 23 Hildegard H I L D E G A R D W U R S T Wurst now welcomes Operngasse 23 students, creatives and other 1040 Vienna locals and serves special Karlsplatz hot dogs such as the Santa Monica (cheddar and cole slaw), Amarillo (chilli con carne www.hildegardwurst.at and cheddar) or Tijuana (jalapeños and hot chili sauce). You can also indulge in a Mon – Fri 11:30am – 7:00pm vegetarian tofu hot dog, soups to go, fresh cakes, coffee and soft drinks. 1010 Vienna – Gölsdorfgasse

Unger und Klein

⑻

That elegant shape meandering through the entire room is not a shelf but rather an interior design element by Eichinger oder Knechtl that holds over 1,000 different wines, spirits and food items. Well-known in Vienna for such projects as the First Floor Bar, the Palmenhaus cafe and other venues, the architects have U N G E R U N D K L E I N concentrated on the essentials Gölsdorfgasse 2 in their design for this wine bar: 1010 Vienna an atmospheric depot and display Stephansplatz for the wine, with sleek, lowSchottenring key furnishings to while away the +43 1 5321323 hours in style. www.ungerundklein.at A new branch, more Italian Mon – Fri 3:00pm – midnight cafeteria than wine bar, has Sat 5:00pm – midnight opened in Vienna’s oldest highrise.

12pts 1010 Vienna – Rotenturmstraße

Eis-Greissler

⑼

Their names are Berta and Mizzi and they graze on the lush meadows of Lower Austria. They are the cows at Anna and Georg Blochberger’s organic farm, and their milk is the basis for the organic ice cream produced by the family business, EisGreissler. Hand-picked fruit, local vegetables, Zotter chocolate and pumpkin seed oil give additional bursts of flavour. The Blochbergers have already created more than 90 flavours at their factory in Krumbach in Lower Austria. They are sold in three ice cream parlours in Vienna and Graz. Artificial flavours, colours or preservatives are a no-go. E I S - G R E I S S L E R Soy milk, on the other Rotenturmstraße 14 hand, is very welcome: Eis1010 Vienna Greissler offers numerous Schwedenplatz flavours for vegans. www.eis-greissler.at

Q U

daily 11:00am – 9:00pm

1030 Vienna – Landstraßer Hauptstraße

Joseph Brot

⑽

C K I

J O S E P H

B R O T

Landstraßer Hauptstraße 4 1030 Vienna Landstraße +43 1 7102881 www.joseph.co.at Mon – Sat 7:30am – 9:00pm Sun 8:00am – 5:00pm

A few years ago nobody would have believed that a bakery would one day become a place of culinary pilgrimage. Food engineer and and self-proclaimed “bread renaissancier” Josef Weghaupt proved them wrong. His twice-baked organic bread from the Waldviertel soon became a true lifestyle product and large crowds would regularly wait in front of his bread shop on Naglergasse. Gradually Josef’s bread became a fixture in top restaurants and he expanded his range to include by patisserie, spreads and snacks. In 2013 he opened a second bread mecca on Landstraßer Hauptstraße. It’s a “gourmet store” (as Josef Weghaupt calls it), both bakery and bistro and does not only sell bread and snacks but also offers breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Try the crispy Urlaib with roast pork, the steak sandwich with basil aioli or the bagel burger with beef and mountain cheese. Top chef Joachim Gradwohl, who previously worked in gourmet restaurants such as Meinl am Graben and Fabios, recently joined the Joseph team as culinary consultant. The secret star in the Joseph kitchen, however, is pâtissière Viola Bachmayr-Heyda. Her chestnut éclairs, choux pastry doughnuts and mirabelle meringue tart are a feast for the eyes and mouth. Discover the colourful cones, cupcakes and bowls in the display case next to the entrance. The rest of the venue is equally visually appealing: high windows, bright colours and quirky coat hook chandeliers by German designer Ingo Maurer complement Joseph’s lifestyle concept.

12pts 1050 Vienna – Ziegelofengasse

Hot & New!

Tanzen Anders

Q U I C K I E

Austria’s most famous 80s pop musician Falco penned not only the hit “Der Kommissar” but also the following lyrics: “Young Romans dance differently than the others”. In the same house in which this very song was written, pastry chef Xu and butcher David today welcome their guests at the café Tanzen Anders (Dance Differently). The project was realised with the help of creative friends and self-built furniture – right in the middle of the fifth district. In the former office space the duo serve light lunches and homemade sweets including beetroot risotto, black pudding stir-fry, beef goulash and the wonderful salt caramel brownie which is not to be missed! More highlights from the menu include tasty toasts that are based on yet another celebrity: Elvis Presley. He inspired the Elvis’ Favourite with fried bananas, peanut butter, crispy bacon and poached egg. 1010 Vienna – Dominikanerbastei

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T A N Z E N

A N D E R S

Ziegelofengasse 29 1050 Vienna Pilgramgasse +43 1 9744774 www.tanzenanders.at Wed – Sat 10:00am – 9:00pm Sun 10:00am – 5:00pm

Hot & New!

Marco Simonis – Bastei 10

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Chef de cuisine Marco Simonis worked for twenty years as general manager for the catering company Frederik’s. Afterwards he followed his passion for art, decoration and tableware with his own business. In the same district in which the MAK and Café Prückel are located he turned a former print shop into a store tailored to the “urban appetite”. The motto: “Do things with passion – or not at all”. He combines small snacks and beautiful design with a concept that unites shop, deli and bistro. Marco Simonis supplies his neighbourhood with homemade tarts, filled baguettes and curries. He also offers deli products from small international producers such as José Gourmet (Portugal, canned fish), Pfeffersack (Germany, spice mixes) and Theodor (France, teas). Last but not least, you’ll find an B A S T E I 1 0 exclusive range of home accessories, books Dominikanerbastei 10 and gift ideas at the back of Marco 1010 Vienna Simonis’ store. The chic novelty products Schwedenplatz come from Scandinavia, the Nether+43 1 5122010 lands or France. This is a meeting www.marcosimonis.com place for foodies and design-loving cosmoMon – Fri 8:00am – 8:00pm politans.

12pts M A R I A Z I E G E L B Ö C K – P H O TO G R A P H E R

The photographic intersection Cafe Korb Brandstätte 9, 1010 Vienna +43 1 5337215 U1, U3 Stephansplatz What does Maria Ziegelböck think about Cafe Korb? “Amazing service, gorgeous owner, great crowd. Vienna demonstrates its inclusivity here – in an intimate setting.”

Café Z Meiselstraße 2, 1150 Vienna +43 680 3087234 U3 Johnstraße Visit this eatery close to the Town Hall (run by Maria Ziegelböck’s sister Christa) to enjoy crêpes and cream cakes. Organic food, little meat, and the lunch menu changes daily.

Bristol Bar Kärntner Ring 1, 1010 Vienna +43 1 51516553 U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz

MARIA ZIEGELBÖCK Born in 1972 in Haag am Hausruck, she learned her craft at photo studio Ziegelböck. From 1991 she attended Friedl Kubelka’s School of Artistic Photography, followed by an assistantship with Elfie Semotan. She has now been self-employed for over 20 years. Clients include Wallpaper, Le Monde, Zeit Magazin and Rondo. She has long-term collaborations with artist group Gelatin and fashion designer Bernhard Willhelm and works at the intersection of fashion and portraiture.

“Five-star service without the five-star attitude,” Ziegelböck says about the Bristol bar. A smoker’s haven known for its leopard prints, Hermès orange and Art Deco.

“W

onderful. Amazing. Lucky shoot.” Maria Ziegelböck sits at a table in Cafe Korb. “I don’t have many shoots where everything adds up perfectly like this.” She speaks of Conchita Wurst who she photographed for a magazine feature. It is a game with gender identities. “Playful. Boy dresses as woman, woman gets masculine traits, man turns into girl.” Maria Ziegelböck has been a professional photographer for more than 20 years. Her world is the intersection of fashion and portraiture. She learned her craft at her mother’s photo studio in Upper Austria: wedding photos, passport photos, family portraits. “That’s where my affinity for street castings stems from. I like to work with people who are not used to standing in front of a camera lens.” She finds inspiration everywhere she goes: in the theatre, cinema or cafe. At Cafe Korb she orders an espresso. When Ziegelböck started her career in the 1990s, the industry was still more creative and daring than today. Artists were hired to come up with advertising concepts – Ziegelböck herself developed a campaign for the drugstore chain dm. In the 2000s, Vienna’s photography world

P O R T R A I T

started to become more conservative, focusing more strongly on market needs. Ziegelböck knows that it doesn’t have to be this way. “There are visual environments that defy conventions and viewing habits.” Paris, for example, where she lived for seven years. Or London or Los Angeles where she produces her photo shootings. The marriage of art and commerce “confuses people. Because nobody knows about it – just yet.” According to Ziegelböck it’s getting better again. She doesn’t set her mind on creating something that lasts forever and always adds a pinch of humour to her work. “I’m basically creating some sort of utilitarian photography with the aim of making our visual environments at least a tiny bit more enjoyable.” Ziegelböck returned to Vienna four years ago. “I grew up in the countryside and I’m still addicted to the city.” She has been based in Vienna for 20 years – albeit with interruptions. She likes the first district and places like Cafe Korb, Engländer, Pöschl and Wunderbar. “I like the urban. Bourgeois with a twist,” Ziegelböck says and orders a second espresso. This twist is also integral to her work. Her photos of Conchita Wurst were published in a special edition.

12pts

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STEIRERECK IM STADTPARK

⑵

VESTIBÜL

⑶

KONSTANTIN FILIPPOU

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SHANGHAI TAN

⑸ MOCHI

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OSWALD & KALB

⑺

PFARRWIRT

Habern und Tschechern

⑻

FABIOS

Hot & New!

⑼

PETZ IM GUSSHAUS

⑽

ZUR HERKNERIN

⑾

SKOPIK & LOHN

Wine and Dine

Hot & New!

⑿

THE BRICKMAKERS

12pts

Teresa Rotschopf Musician

Similarly to how the German word “Kumpane” (friend) derives from the tradition of sharing bread, the Austrian term “Haberer” (from Hebrew “Chaver” / “Haver”) derives from the idea of friendship. After all, wining and dining is best done in the company of friends. The good old Viennese “Gasthaus”, a buzzing inn with long opening hours, still exists today. This is the place where you’ll find the “hardcore” Viennese with heart and mind. The gentlemen are typically amazed by the offer, the ladies usually less so because “classic Viennese cuisine” economises on the low-calorie dishes found in restaurants that charge three times the price. Remember, this is no Hotel Sacher. This much more resembles Bruegel’s “Peasant Wedding” or a scene from a Hieronymus Bosch painting. After eight successful years with internationally renowned electropop band Bunny Lake, Teresa Rotschopf struck out on a new musical, more lyrical path. Today she simply performs under the name O ... continued on page 45

W I N E A N D D I N E

12pts 1030 Vienna – Am Heumarkt

Steirereck im Stadtpark

W I N

Ranked ninth in the world in 2013, Vienna’s Steirereck is giving Noma a run for its money. With their restaurant still ranked a respectable 16th last year, Heinz and Birgit Reitbauer have been spearheading the domestic gourmet scene for years – not least because they have never shied away from daring changes. In 2010, vegetables gained centre stage in Heinz Reitbauer’s detail-loving kitchen. The plan worked. Black salsify with nashi pears, pumpkin and citron, artichoke and sunchoke on corn salad – two-thirds of his six-course meals have gone vegetarian. In summer 2014, the Reitbauers rebuilt their restaurant from scratch. The terrace was transformed into three spacious glass pavilions with sliding walls (open when weather permits).

S T E I R E R E C K

+43 1 7133168 www.steirereck.at

N D D I N E

I M

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A new glass wine cellar was installed in the entrance area. The basement is now home to a new cheese room. Guests can choose from 30 types of bread that are served from the legendary bread trolley. The exterior of the building was fitted with aluminium panels that mirror the surrounding park. They are custom-made in Luxembourg and have previously been used only in the Louvre in Lens. The little sister of the gourmet restaurant, the Meierei, is located on the other side of the Steirereck and boasts a terrace at the Wien river. It offers simpler dishes including warm pastries, fresh strudel, and a delicious veal schnitzel that is fried in clarified butter. The Meierei is also known for its breakfast offer and cheese selection: choose from 120 international types.

S T A D T P A R K

Am Heumarkt 2a 1030 Vienna Stadtpark

Mon – Fri 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6:30pm – midnight closed on public holidays

1010 Vienna – Universitätsring

Vestibül

⑵ The Austrian National Theatre, known colloquially as the Burg, is the largest spoken theatre in Europe. It is home to a number of performance spaces, the smallest of which, the Vestibül (vestibule), is tucked behind the grand stairway. It is an unorthodox venue that plays host to a number of unusual theatrical projects. Up in the attic, and sharing a name with the mini performance space down below, is the award-winning Vestibül restaurant. It’s a firm favourite among both V E S T I B Ü L the local Viennese and visitors. Universitätsring 2 It is headed by head-chef Christian 1010 Vienna Domschitz, whose philosophy is Rathaus “Invent nothing new, but improve Herrengasse on everything”. His staple is solid +43 1 5324999 Austrian fare – think meatloaf www.vestibuel.at with onion mustard, crusty bread Mon – Fri 11:00am – midnight with ham or the legendary herb Sat 4:00pm – midnight lobster.

12pts 1010 Vienna – Dominikanerbastei

Konstantin Filippou

⑶

One of the reasons for international gourmets to travel not only to Paris, London and Copenhagen but also to Vienna is Konstantin Filippou – the Austrian-Greek chef who worked at the luxury Italian’s Novelli and received three Gault-Millau toques for his first restaurant. At his eponymous restaurant, the dishes will arrive at your table in four to six meals: always puristic, always served in straight lines and characterised by an unbridled passion for quality and K O N S T A N T I N F I L I P P O U pure taste. Dominikanerbastei 17 Signature dishes 1010 Vienna like salt cod Stubentor brandade with char caviar or dove with cauliflower and Périgord +43 1 5122229 truffle leave guests and gourmet critics raving. www.konstantinfilippou.com An absolute must for foodies. Filippou is regarded as the most Mon – Fri 12:00pm – 3:00pm, 6:30pm – midnight promising chef in Vienna. 1060 Vienna – Gumpendorfer Straße

Shanghai Tan

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Dining at Asian restaurant Shanghai tan, member of the ra’mien family, is a different experience from elsewhere in the city. Large, dark rooms with mirrored walls, red lanterns as lighting, black tables, separées and the scent of incense create an ambience more akin to an opium den than a restaurant. The architect and designer Chieh-shu Tzou from the Vienna architecture firm 10.2, who had the furniture custom-made in S H A N G H A I T A N China, has created a unique Gumpendorfer Straße 9 atmosphere situated somewhere 1060 Vienna between kitsch and coolness, with Museumsquartier wonderful Chinese / Cantonese +43 1 5854988 cuisine. The dim sum are a must. www.shanghaitan.at Mon – Sat 6:00pm – 1:00am

1020 Vienna – Praterstraße

Mochi

⑸

W I N E A N D D I N E

The place to be for the Viennese bobo. A “California style” sushi stop brings a new sense of food and life into the city. The store, which is characterised by a very fresh, exciting architecture, is run by one exceptionally friendly couple. High-level Asian cuisine. M O C H I To get a table in Praterstraße 15 the relatively small 1020 Vienna restaurant is a Schwedenplatz challenge. During Nestroyplatz the summer months +43 1 9251380 you can sit in a www.mochi.at pleasant Parisian-style Mon – Sat 11:30am – 10:00pm garden.

12pts 1010 Vienna – Bäckerstraße

Oswald & Kalb In the 1980s Oswald & Kalb was easily the hottest hangout in town. Artists like Hermann Nitsch, Christian Ludwig Attersee and Falco popped in to mingle and dine, leaving their stamp on the trendy haunt. At some point, however, the crowds moved on. The minimalist decor and unpretentious cuisine stayed. In a 16th-century vault, decorated with maroon wood panelling and elegant Thonet chairs, chef Stefan Sares serves classic Viennese dishes, from fried chicken and an excellent goulash to prime boiled beef with pumpkin seed oil. The Oswald & Kalb is considered a true Viennese institution beyond culinary experimentation, and few restaurants can boast more regulars.

W I N E A N D D I N E

1190 Vienna – Pfarrplatz

Pfarrwirt

O S W A L D

K A L B

Bäckerstraße 14 1010 Vienna Stubentor +43 1 5121371 Mon – Sat 5:00pm – midnight

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The Pfarrwirt is Vienna’s oldest tavern, with a history dating back to the 12th century. In the 17th century the single-storey Berghof was converted into a Baroque residence. The wooden veranda was built in 1872 and expanded in 1904 to its present size. In 2009 the impressive rooms were restored and refurnished by the Viennese firm BWM Architekten (Erich Bernard, Daniela Walten, Johann Moser). P F A R R W I R T Cuisine, architecture Pfarrplatz 5 and art (ranging from 1190 Vienna 15th-century red chalk Heiligenstadt drawings including a “snare +43 1 3707373 picture” by Daniel Spoerri) www.pfarrwirt.com define the unique genius daily 12:00pm – midnight of the Pfarrwirt. 1190 Vienna – Tuchlauben

Fabios Fabios, in a prominent downtown location, just next to the new Golden Quarter, offers fine dining in a sophisticated atmosphere. Architects BEHF stand for conceptual, clean-lined design and, as they themselves define it, “corporate culture”, a symbiosis which can be experienced F A B I O S at Fabios. Tuchlauben 4–6 Featuring a 1010 Vienna new winter Stephansplatz garden, the Herrengasse restaurant allows up to 120 guests to choose between more +43 1 5322222 public areas or quiet niches at the back. The bar, separated www.fabios.at from the restaurant section, also offers a cosy lounge – everyMon – Sat 9:00am – 1:00am thing absolutely “luxury class” – also the price range.

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12pts 1040 Vienna – Gußhausstraße

Hot & New!

Petz im Gußhaus

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Christian Petz is one of those chefs everybody adores. This is partly due to his superior cooking skills (Petz was awarded nine Gault-Millau toques in three different restaurants) but also because of his cheerful disposition. In early 2015 the 52year-old finally opened his first own restaurant – or inn to be more precise. A stone’s throw from the St. Charles’s Church, the no-frills Gußhaus exemplifies what modern pub food should taste like. The menu offers high-quality dishes including “Vitello Dorschato” with veal, cod liver mayonnaise and pepper jelly, or beef tartare with P E T Z I M G U S S H A U S pork rind crackers, fried octopus in Gußhausstraße 23 black pepper sauce and orange fennel. Christian 1040 Vienna Petz also reprises his “bring your own bottle” concept Taubstummengasse that he first started during his time on the Badeschiff +43 1 5044750 at the Danube Canal. Guests are welcome to bring www.gusshaus.at their own wine, for a € 15 corkage fee.

W I N E A N

Tue – Sat 11:30am – midnight

1040 Vienna – Wiedner Hauptstraße

Zur Herknerin

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Her parents forbade her to go into catering so Stefanie Herkner studied art and cultural management. But she wasn’t really happy with it. After all, she grew up among pots and pans as the daughter of legendary tavern owner Heinz Herkner. When her father died in 2012, Stefanie decided to follow in his footsteps and transformed a former plumber’s shop on Wiedner Hauptstraße into a modern inn. With her vintage furniture and retro interior, Stefanie – who herself looks like a girl from the 50s – soon became a favourite among the local hipsters. Her menu includes hearty, down-to-earth and regional dishes that are authentic enough to come straight from granny’s kitchen: rice with meat, stuffed roast chicken and cabbage rolls made from ingredients from the family farm. Stefanie Herkner Z U R H E R K N E R I N uses additional ingredients that she finds Wiedner Hauptstraße 36 on her trips across Austria. 1040 Vienna The up-and-coming restaurant owner even Taubstummengasse gives cooking lessons to teach others to make +43 699 15220522 her signature dish: dumplings. Try (or learn www.zurherknerin.at how to cook) her cheese dumplings, apricot Tue – Fri 5:00pm – 10:00pm dumplings, curd nougat dumplings and more.

D D I N E

12pts 1020 Vienna – Leopoldsgasse

Skopik & Lohn

There are several reasons why Skopik & Lohn has numbered among the most recommended restaurants in Vienna for many years now. Firstly, its proximity to the Karmelitermarkt – a district which has long been a favourite for both tourists and locals. Secondly, the dramatic ceiling design by Otto Zitko (chaotic black lines) which gives the rustic pub a contemporary twist. Thirdly, the thoughtful owner Horst Scheuer and his team of well-groomed waiters in suits, who will make sure that every single guest leaves completely satisfied. Last but not least, the menu, which – despite frequentlychanging chefs – has S K O P I K & L O H N remained consistent over Leopoldsgasse 17 time. Our favourites: 1020 Vienna the Viennese schnitzel, the Taborstraße guinea fowl with couscous, +43 1 2198977 and the braised lamb www.skopikundlohn.at with sweet potato mash. Tue – Sat 6:00pm – 1:00am Bon appétit!

W I N E A N D D I N E

⑾

1070 Vienna – Zieglergasse

Hot & New!

The Brickmakers

⑿

He was the first to make fish and Pilsner Urquell and Ottakringer beer drawn from large steel chips widely popular in Vienna, and tanks hanging over the guests’ heads. The tanks are also last year he started the barbecue part of the decor and go well with the interior concept that trend. Who are we talking about? unites bistro, pub and American diner aesthetics. Brian Patton, founder Vegetarians can choose beof the pub Charlie tween glass noodle salad, T H E B R I C K M A K E R S P’s and inventor of baked eggplant and onion pie – Zieglergasse 42 successful pop-up a rather limited offering. The 1070 Vienna eateries like the dessert menu, however, will make Zieglergasse burger-themed “It’s everybody happy again! +43 1 9974414 All About The Try the Chocolate Pecan Pie, www.brickmakers.at Meat Baby” and “Big rice pudding and Peter’s sweet Mon – Fri 5:00pm – 2:00am Smoke” at Vienna’s cinnamon roll. Sat – Sun 12:00pm – 2:00am Danube Canal. The latter appeared in 2014 and Patton’s smoky pulled pork, ribs and lamb sausages turned into a real summer hit. And the good news is that they are now available all year round at the recently opened Brickmakers Ale & Cider House in the hipster district Neubau. Here, the award-winning chef Peter Zinter is in charge of the barbecue and “Food and Beer Pairings”. Smoked BBQ specialties like brisket or pastrami sandwich are served with matching craft beers. Chef and beer fanatic Brian Patton (he’s also a beer sommelier) has more than 150 types of bottled beer and 30 types of draft beer on offer. A unique selection in Vienna which is complemented with the fine Big Arlet house cider and fresh

12pts TERESA ROTSCHOPF – MUSICIAN

The mystical side of electronic music THIS IS O After eight successful years with internationally renowned electro-pop band Bunny Lake, Teresa Rotschopf struck out on a new musical, more lyrical path. Today she simply performs under the name O. As a solo artist, she explores the elegiac spheres of electronic music with subtle, fragile live performances. Her new album Messiah will be released in autumn.

er songs and performances are both dark and fragile. On stage, she swears by reduction and intensity. It’s all about the music and the lyrics, complemented by dim lighting in a few colours, creating a magnetic atmosphere. She blends traditional instruments with digital ones and synthesizers with church organs. But heavy beats and synthesizers under the disco ball have now come to play a different role as compared to her time as frontwoman of Bunny Lake. They now serve as the foundation for the musician’s smooth, sonorous voice which are accompanied by a keyboardist, sometimes a choir, a slide guitarist, a timpanist and three backing singers. Rotschopf likes irritating moments, moments that make you hold your breath. She gets absorbed by her lyrics and songs to see where they lead her. Her writing process typically kicks off with her personal mood, sometimes with a single word. The performer does not stick to rules or guidelines. “You always have to listen to yourself – no matter what you’re doing,” she says,

“It’s key to be your own guide. That way you can be taken to places that nobody else has been before.” Rotschopf isn’t entirely sure about her sources of inspiration. Maybe she’s like a spider, waiting for a new song to get caught in her web. And once she’s caught it, everything moves very quickly. One day a friend rang her front doorbell and she suddenly began to write. By the time her friend arrived at her apartment entrance, she had completed the lyrics, which have remained exactly the same until today. The conceptual strategies and artistic visions that went into the creation of Rotschopf’s multi-faceted stage persona O have been documented by filmmaker Mirjam Unger’s Oh Yeah, She Performs – a detailed and emotional insight into the artist’s creative processes. Born in Salzburg, she moved to Vienna twelve years ago but didn’t stay. “Vienna has always been a good place for me to return to. At the same time it’s a place that I need to leave every once in a while in order not to get swallowed by its coziness.” Rotschopf recently returned from a six month stay in New York and now lives in the second district, Leopoldstadt. The district fascinates her because of its demographic complexity. “Places where everyone is the same are boring to me.”

Skopik & Lohn Leopoldsgasse 17, 1020 Vienna +43 1 2198977 U2 Taborstraße

Heuriger Sirbu Kahlenbergerstraße 210, 1190 Vienna +43 1 3205928 U4 Heiligenstadt

Supersense Praterstraße 70, 1020 Vienna +43 1 9690832 U1, U2 Praterstraße

This is where I go whenever I want to get out of Vienna but am not able to: the atmosphere is reminiscent of a Viennese tavern or a Parisian bistro. You can dress up or down here.

Vienna boasts the largest urban wine-growing region in the world. At Sirbu, you feel as if you’re in the countryside even though you’re still in town. They keep it simple: a modest buffet, wonderful wine and sweeping views over the city.

I live just around the corner, lucky me! It’s a paradise for lovers of everything analog: music, photography, handmade prints, coffee and your own voice on vinyl – recorded in the Flabbergasting Record Elevator.

P O R T R A I T

Stadtpark U4 Stadtpark or U3 Stubentor With its beautiful trees and the buildings of the Ringstraße in the background, the Stadtpark between the first and the third district reminds me a little bit of Central Park. I come here whenever I miss New York, to observe tourists visiting the Strauß monument and ducks waddling across the meadow.

12pts

⑴

CHAYA FUERA

Hot & New!

⑵

VIE I PEE

⑶ RHIZ

⑷

GRELLE FORELLE

⑸

FUTUREGARDEN

⑹

ELEKTRO GÖNNER

⑺

FLUC + FLUC WANNE

Krawäu und L’Amourhatscher 46

100 decibel

⑻

PORGY & BESS

⑼ FLEX

⑽

PRATERSAUNA

Hot & New!

⑾

25HOURS HOTEL

⑿

ALBERTINA PASSAGE

The most sensible thing that tourists could do is to complete a proper waltz crash course if they want to have a say in Vienna as a dancer. Are you a superb flamenco dancer? Unfortunately that won’t take you far in Vienna. The waltz still rules the Austrian capital. So be reasonable, line up and learn to waltz – and the city will lie at your feet. The “picksüßen Wiener Mädln und Buben”, the city’s lovely girls and boys cannot wait to hit the ballrooms with you.

Patrick Pulsinger DJ, Producer

12pts

The DJ and founder of record label Cheap Records was one of the pioneers of electronic music. When Viennese techno music gained popularity outside the country’s borders, the Austrian scene became associated exclusively with the genre ... continued on page 53

1 0 0 D E C I B E L

12pts 1070 Vienna – Kandlgasse

Chaya Fuera

1 0 0 D E C I B E L

⑴

Chaya Fuera means “the life outside” and at Chaya Fuera all kinds of music genres from out there are celebrated. From concerts by Austrian newcomers, karaoke nights or 1950s swing, the schedule is as colourful as the door policy. “Everyone is welcome, even if they are wearing shorts,” says owner Stefan Ebner. The pleasant mix of guests (fashionistas, hipsters, alternatives) that dance their nights away at Chaya Fuera speak volumes. “Every night a new theme” also applies to the visual effects at the 800 m2 venue venue – thanks to 20 video projectors and 60 metres of projection screens. VJs are in charge of constantly changing C H A Y A F U E R A light wallpapers: one Kandlgasse 19–21 night you’ll be amazed 1070 Vienna by seagulls flying Burggasse-Stadthalle around the room, the +43 1 5440036-250 next time you’ll marvel www.chayafuera.com at animated music Fri 7:00pm – 6:00am notes jumping along Sat 11:00pm – 6:00am the walls. 1020 Vienna – Waldsteingartenstraße

Hot & New!

Vie i Pee

While others complain about shrinking visitor numbers, Martin Ho opens yet another venue. Ten years after opening Dots Experimental Sushi (Mariahilferstraße 103) the restaurateur, gallery owner and art lover opened a club called Vie i Pee – a daring venture considering that it’s in close proximity to the established Pratersauna. 2,000 square metres (600 of which are indoors) have now become a hub for hip hop, soul and R’n’B fans with modV I E I P E E erate entrance Waldsteingartenstraße 135 fees (€ 5 – 10). 1020 Vienna If you fancy Messe-Prater splashing out, +43 664 2502022 you can book www.vieipee.com an exclusive Wed 11:00pm – 6:00am VIP package. Thu 9:00pm – 4:00am The five-star Fri – Sat 11:00pm – 6:00am treatment includes discreet entry round the back, a spacious VIP area and a personal host who will take good care of you all night long. Drawing on his background as an art collector and gallery owner (he has recently repositioned his Ho Gallery to the first district)

⑵ Martin Ho decorated Vie i Pee with pieces that make references to the street art scene. Kaws, Roa, Shepard Fairey are in good company: you’ll find them next to pieces by Damien Hirst, JeanMichel Basquiat, Terry Richardson and Andy Warhol. Vie i Pee’s culinary offerings are very different from those of Dots Experimental Sushi. Martin Ho serves traditional Viennese specialties including black pudding, fried chicken and schnitzel. The spacious garden at Vie i Pee is the ideal hangout in summer. “It slightly resembles Nikki Beach”, is how Martin Ho describes the area, which is complete with lounge furniture, bunk beds and a huge wood terrace.

12pts 1080 Vienna – Lerchenfelder Gürtel

Rhiz

⑶ The place to go for Spex readers, laptop musicians and pop theoreticians. It’s prototypical for the kind of people hanging out on the Gürtel (which is being revitalised with EU funds), as down to earth as it is modern. It R H I Z has broadband Lerchenfelder Gürtel internet access, a Stadtbahnbogen 37 variety of ambi1080 Vienna tions DJ lineJosefstädterstraße ups and regular +43 1 4092505 live music. www.rhiz.org daily from 6:00pm DJ line up starts at 9:00pm

1090 Vienna – Spittelauer Lände

Grelle Forelle

⑷

No guest list, no photos, admission over 21 only. Spoilt party snobs might need to adjust a little to the strict house rules at Grelle Forelle (Dazzling Trout) that opened in late-2011 and stirred up the Viennese underground scene with international DJ line-ups and the best sound system in town. Apart from techno, the original focus, the club now hosts hip hop, house, electro and bass nights, too. With space for up to 700 party guests on the big club floor and the smaller kitchen floor, the club is extended in summer by a terrace right next to the Danube with its own sandwich and salad stall. Apart from electronic music, Grelle Forelle places G R E L L E F O R E L L E special emphasis on visuals and its interior. Street Spittelauer Lände 12 artist Busk created concrete flowers for the inside of 1090 Vienna the Forelle, while magical projections, colourful Spittelau visuals and specially created interior worlds take guests www.grelleforelle.com to other spheres.

Futuregarden

0 D E C I B E

Fri – Sat 11:00pm – 6:00am

1060 Vienna – Schadekgasse

⑸

The Futuregarden is one of those places in Vienna’s hip 6th district that people usually intend to hit for pre-drinks, only to find themselves still there at closing time. On Friday and Saturday night, and especially whenever the Schaulager Gallery next door is hosting a private viewing, the Futuregarden, is so packed that its stylish patrons overflow out the F U T U R E G A R D E N doorway, with its priced drinks and Schadekgasse 6 excellent DJ-sets by Vienna’s 1060 Vienna scenesters. Neubaugasse This is a great place to toast to the www.facebook.com/futuregarden future amidst a great crowd of art Mon – Thu 6:00pm – 2:00am and music enthusiasts, knowing that Fri – Sat 6:00pm – 4:00am the very near future may hold nothing Sun 7:00pm – 2:00am but a healthy hangover.

12pts 1060 Vienna – Mariahilferstraße

Elektro Gönner

Good architects don’t necessarily need to design grand museums or fancy concept stores to leave an everlasting imprint on a city and its people. In the case of Elektro Gönner, it is a former electrical retailer just off Vienna’s main shopping street that has captured the spirit of the city. Judging from the outside you may be forgiven for thinking that it still sells plugs, adaptors, extension cables, etc. but once inside you immediately get a feel for the subtle skill of the three architects, Korkut Akalay / propeller z, Friedel Winkler / Rataplan and Bernhard Eder, who have succeeded in making this extended living room of a bar one of the most popular hangouts for artists, fashionistas, musicians, and, E L E K T R O G Ö N N E R well, architects.

1 0 0

Mariahilferstraße 101 1060 Vienna Zieglergasse +43 1 2086679 www.elektro-g.at

Sun – Thu 7:00pm – 2:00am Fri – Sat 7:00pm – 4:00am

E C I B E L

⑹

1020 Vienna – Praterstern

Fluc + Fluc Wanne Fluc is an established fixture on Vienna’s nightlife and music scene, with a legendary programme presenting national and international DJs seven days a week. Before reaching its present form, though, Fluc saw quite a few changes. The first club set up on the huge construction site of the Wien Nord railway station at Praterstern had to make way for other tenants, but found a new plot just 50 metres away – in a redeveloped pedestrian tunnel. Vienna architect Klaus Stattmann came up with the design concept of the “container village” that would allow Fluc to keep growing along with its community.

⑺

F L U C Praterstern 5 1020 Vienna Praterstern www.fluc.at Mon – Sat open doors 8:00pm

12pts 1010 Vienna – Riemergasse

Porgy & Bess

⑻

In Vienna there are several fine – rather traditional – jazz clubs but there is also one place providing a stage for the young, wild and undogmatic jazz scene. And what a scene it is! The former porn cinema mutated to a cool and stylish hangout featuring mostly excellent live music. Dedicated events with selective focuses P O R G Y & B E S S on Eastern Europe. Riemergasse 11 1010 Vienna Stephansplatz Stubenring +43 1 512 88 11 www.porgy.at

1010 Vienna – Donaukanal

Flex

⑼ Vienna’s underground Shangri La with a Punk history, concreteencased Subwoofer and a sewer right outside the door. Club evenings are held every second night, and live concerts range from Silicone Pumpgun to Kruder & Dorfmeister. The music spot in F L E X Vienna – the Flex is what Voom Voom Donaukanal, near Augartenbrücke 1010 Vienna used to be in the 60s, Schwedenplatz Vanilla in the 70s, the Schottenring U4 in the 80s and +43 1 5337525 Volksgarten in the 90s. www.flex.at

1020 Vienna – Waldsteingartenstraße

Pratersauna – Social Life and Art Space

0 0 D E C I B E L

⑽

Vienna’s latest cultural venture is more than just a club, P R A T E R S A U N A as its subtitle reads: A Space for Social Life and Art. What Waldsteingartenstraße 135 may sound a tad ambitious turned out to give Vienna’s 1020 Vienna nd 2 district the final push it needed to confirm itself as the Messe-Prater new coolest district. www.pratersauna.tv The former sauna in the Prater park (hence the name) has been transformed into a full-blown social entertainment oasis by two event marketing experts, Hennes Weiss and Stefan Hiess, catering to all tastes and needs. Several floors operate at the same time, the music ranges from minimal techno to electronic live acts. Quite ambitious indeed then, but, as they say, nothing ventured nothing gained.

12pts

Hot & New!

1070 Vienna – Lerchenfelderstraße

Dachboden at 25hours hotel

1 0 0 D E C I B

The 25hours hotel chain turned an old student dormitory near the MuseumsQuartier into a hip design hotel. The classic, unadorned concrete structure from the 1970s was extended by three additional floors made of glass. On the top floor of the building you’ll find the hotel bar Dachboden (engl. “the attic”) which is accessible to everybody via an exterior elevator. From this bar, with its feel of a living room overlooking the rooftops of the city, you can soak in the view of the parliament and the vineyards in Klosterneuburg. During the day, the bar is a quiet work place with free WiFi. In the evening it turns into a cosy lounge and hotspot for night owls enjoying a drink and a great DJ set. Food is served on the ground floor of the 25hours hotel. 1500 Foodmakers dishes “Italian Soul Food” while the attached sidewalk café is home to the mobile burger track “Burger de Ville”.

2 5 H O U R S

⑾

H O T E L

Lerchenfelderstraße 1–3 1070 Vienna Volkstheater +43 1 521510 www.25hours-hotels.com/wien Tue – Fri 2:00pm – 1:00am Sat 12:00am – 1:00am Sun 12:00pm – 10:00pm

1010 Vienna – Opernring

Albertina Passage

⑿ A L B E R T I N A

P A S S A G E

Opernring, next to State’s Opera 1010 Vienna Karlsplatz +43 1 5120813 www.albertinapassage.at Tue – Sat 6:00pm – 4:00am

Take the pedestrian underpass next to the Vienna State Opera and discover a noble dinner club with live music. Upon entering the Albertina Passage you’ll immediately notice the futuristic bar and the striking stage construction in a dazzling white inspired by the legendary scene from Pulp Fiction in which Uma Thurman and John Travolta particpate in Jack Rabbit Slim’s Twist Contest. Chef Alexander Kumptner welcomes up to 300 guests in the dark booths around the stage and serves international dishes:

burrata, spicy tuna, and steaks grilled on an American wood stove. At the bar, the team, spearheaded by bartender Salar Gerami, quenches the guests’s thirst for delicious drinks. From classic cocktails to extraordinary creations, only experienced bartenders will serve you from behind the counters at the Albertina Passage. The Albertina Passage All Stars play live jazz, funk, soul and classical musical before DJs take over after midnight.

12pts PAT R I C K P U L S I N G E R – D J , P R O D U C E R

Viennese stamp

Grelle Forelle Spittelauer Lände 12, 1090 Vienna U4 Spittelau A club with a sound system at its heart. Simple architecture, excellent bookings, great live concerts and the best sound in the city. Its terrace is lovely in the summer.

Supersense Praterstraße 70, 1020 Vienna +43 1 9690832 U1, U2 Praterstern A must-see! Try the ham buns and discover large-format Polaroid cameras, an analog recording studio complete with vinyl cutter and the Flabbergasting Record Elevator. My recommendation: “Jazzpanoptikum” on Thursdays!

Sweet and Salty Renngasse 14, 1010 Vienna +43 1 5358148 U2 Schottentor Undoubtedly, the best falafel in town. Simply the best.

atrick Pulsinger is one of those artists who breathed new life into the Viennese party scene in the 1990s. The DJ and founder of record label Cheap Records was one of the pioneers of electronic music. When Viennese techno music gained popularity outside the country’s borders, the Austrian scene became associated exclusively with the genre. However, the music culture that developed in the capital couldn’t have been more diverse. Ever since then, Pulsinger has moved on and expanded his oeuvre by venturing into new musical styles, including jazz and hip hop. At his own studio, Feedback, he produces tracks for Austrian and international artists. He is excited about the radical changes that the music industry is currently undergoing: old school styles of recording are now used to complement synthesizers rather than serving as competing with them, the transgression of styles defies musical tastes and renders pigeonholing of genres impossible. In his eyes the willingness to experiment is the most positive development at a time when many critics have repeatedly proclaimed the demise of the music

Wavemeister – Vintage synthesizers & studio equipment Zieglergasse 36, 1070 Vienna +43 1 5221996 U3 Zieglergasse Need an ARP 2600 modular audio synthesizer or a Roland Space Echo? Head straight to Wavemeister for the best vintage studio equipment.

P P AT R I C K P U L S I N G E R Patrick Pulsinger was born in 1970 in East Germany, moved to Austria in 1980 and arrived in Vienna in 1990. In 1994 he founded the record label Cheap Records with Erdem Tunakan and had a great influence on the Viennese electronic music scene. In 2003, he left the label to work as a producer in his own studio, called Feedback. He has collaborated with musicians such as the Pet Shop Boys, Hercules and Grace Jones. Most recent collaborators include rapper Gerard, Sam Irl and indie folk group Dawa.

O R T R A I T

industry. “Music can be shared much more easily now,” Pulsinger says, convinced that the music industry will continue to thrive. “Consumers and artists are connected much more directly now, and you have to know how to deal with these changes. Today, deciding on the level of complexity and fragmentation when you produce something isn’t a financial issue but an artistic one.” In 2013, Pulsinger curated Vienna’s Pop-Fest, a multiday festival with free admission and a line-up of emerging and well-established artists both from the pop genre and beyond. Every year the event testifies to the increasing levels of experimentation and a new lust for live music, both on stage and in the audience. Pulsinger is delighted that today, exactly 20 years after the first buzz around Viennese electronic music, the eyes are on Austrian music again. How does he explain Austria’s tendency to produce more interesting sounds than other countries? “The market here is smaller and therefore less aggressive. I believe that music can still develop for a while before it becomes commercial.”

12pts

⑴

WEIN & CO NASCHMARKT

⑵

STRANDBAR HERRMANN

⑶

LOOS BAR

⑷

SCHIKANEDER

⑸

ROBERTO AMERICAN BAR

⑹

EDEN BAR

⑺

VOLKSGARTEN PAVILLON

⑻

TANZCAFÉ JENSEITS

⑼

HOTEL AM BRILLANTENGRUND

Hot & New!

⑽ TÜR 7

Aufzwicken 54

Pick up

⑾ PUFF

⑿

TEL AVIV BEACH

Marianne Kohn Empress of the Night

12pts

Still an integral part of social encounters in Vienna: the traditional kiss on the hand. Indeed, the kiss on the hand is legitimate in the Austrian capital at all times of the day. Bear in mind, however, that you don’t actually touch the lady’s hand with your lips but always keep a distance of at least a few centimetres. The gesture shouldn’t come across as “påtschert” meaning clumsy, wooden or inelegant. Always put your whole heart into a hand kiss.

P I C K U P

Her family designed the interior spaces of Adolf Loos buildings including the Museum Café. “Even as a girl, I thought it’d be great to work there,” she remembers ... continued on page 61

12pts 1060 Vienna – Linke Wienzeile

Wein & Co at Naschmarkt

⑴

To see and be seen: this is the motto behind the glass facade at the corner of the Naschmarkt. Home to the first and most legendary branch of Austrian wine dealer Wein & Co (24 branches in total, € 53 million in sales), the location offers a large shop floor (open until after midnight) and three bars. Discover more than 2,000 different wines, the world’s best beer brands and coffee from the Italian brand Hausbrandt. At the champagne lounge, under the patronage of champagne house Louis Roederer, bubbly is poured into the guest’s glasses from the magnum bottle – for only € 9.90. Against all trends, the Naschmarkt Wein & Co branch has a dedicated smoking bar that seats about 20 people and demonstrates its expertise in and knowledge of cigars with an amazing selection stored in a display humidor. W E I N

C O

N A S C H M A R K T

Linke Wienzeile 4 1060 Vienna Karlsplatz

+43 5 07063102 www.weinco.at

Mon – Fri 10:00am – 1:00am Sat 9:00am – 1:00am Sun and public holidays 11:00am – midnight

K 1030 Vienna – Hermannpark (next to Urania)

U P

Strandbar Herrmann

⑵

happy hour from 6 pm to 7 pm (get two cocktails for the Want to relax on a price of one) heat up the night. lounge chair At beach parties and football screenings you might and sip a cocktail? even fall into the arms of a perfect stranger. As of this year Head straight you can also get married in to Strandbar Herthe in-house wedding chapel. mann, the best The ceremony is perbeach bar in town. formed by a singing Elvis, a The pioneerlicensed captain or an official ing concept at the registrar. The heated pavilion Danube Canal allows you to celebrate on has attracted local rainy days, too, thanks to 150 crowds since 2005 seats, a video projector with and has gained a true cult status. Yet, it doesn’t fail to screen, and a sound system. continuously evolve. Hammocks and canopy swings have It’s not only the locals that been set up next to the lounge chairs, exotic drinks love Strandbar Hermann. The concept has also garnered like the Somersby Cider have been added to the menu international attention. In 2007 it was ranked second(the classics Caipirinha and Moscow Mule are still highly best in the world by prestigious travel magazine Condé recommended), and every Saturday from 11 am, a puppeNast Traveller. teer comes by to entertain the children. Every year the DanIf the weather’s nice, the popular S T R A N D B A R H E R M A N N ube Canal turns into summer hot spot opens at 10 am, making Hermannpark (next to Urania) the Mediterranean Sea at it the perfect choice for a lunch with 1030 Vienna Strandbar Hermann burgers, salads, and pasta. On weekends Schwedenplatz and leaves nothing to be brunch is served from 10.30 am to 2.30 pm. +43 688 8666036 desired. In the evening, the 4,000 m2 area (with www.strandbarhermann.at 600 tons of sand) turns into a goto destidaily 10:00am – 2:00am nation for night owls. Local DJs and a

12pts 1010 Vienna – Kärntner Durchgang

Loos Bar

⑶ This bar, protected by law as a historically important venue, is a relic of Viennese culture that is still very much alive and kicking. Architect Adolf Loos designed it in 1908 after a long stay in America (which is why it’s really called the “Loos American L O O S B A R Bar”). Kärntner Durchgang 10 The lucky night 1010 Vienna owls who flock here Stephansplatz are sure to have a good +43 1 5123283 time, because not www.loosbar.at only is the ambience Thu – Sat 12:00pm – 5:00am first-class but the Sun – Wed 12:00pm – 4:00am cocktails are too.

1040 Vienna – Margaretenstraße

Schikaneder

⑷

The Schikaneder is one of Vienna’s original multipurpose venues. Not only is it home to one of the city’s best-loved and charmingly scruffy experimental and independent cinemas, but the Schikaneder bar right next door is a hugely popular joint for folks from all walks of life. Broke (i.e. art) students mingle with creative types here, enjoying drinks on the comfy old couches. S C H I K A N E D E R A daily line-up of DJs plays a good Margaretenstraße 24 mix of, well, everything (from indie1040 Vienna rock, pop, minimal, techno to disco and Kettenbrückengasse house), and every once in a while a +43 1 5852867 couple of couch potatoes might even be www.schikaneder.at inspired to brave the dance floor. Then again, dancing is overrated daily 6:00pm – 4:00am anyway. 1010 Vienna – Bauernmarkt

Roberto American Bar

P I C K U P

⑸

Roberto Pavlovic dedicated 15 years of his life to the legendary Loos Bar before he felt the urge to become his own boss. So he opened the Roberto bar in a 40-squaremetre venue that’s been packed since day one. Vienna’s rich and famous mingle here in four booths with black velvet curtains or they flirt the night away at the curved wooden counter. An awesome conversation starter: the huge chandelier made of 80,000 beads which covers the entire ceiling above the counter. Roberto serves classic cocktails R O B E R T O A M E R I C A N B A R including the Old Fashioned Bauernmarkt 11–13 (whiskey, Angostura bitters and sugar, 1010 Vienna garnished with an orange slice Stephansplatz and cocktail cherry) and light snacks +43 676 9429001 such as olives, Serrano ham and www.robertosbar.com Parmesan cheese, daily from 4 to 6 pm. Mon – Sun 2:00pm – 4:00am

12pts 1010 Vienna – Liliengasse

Eden Bar

P I C K U P

Helmut Qualtinger sang about it, Liz Taylor and Harry Belafonte were its guests: welcome to the Eden bar behind St. Stephen’s Cathedral. You won’t find it in a guidebook and yet it’s known beyond Austria’s borders. Every taxi driver will find it in no time. For more than 100 years, the Eden bar has been a place of “cultivated evening entertainment”, a place where you can dance to live music, watch incredible cabaret performances and spend a lot of money on champagne and long drinks. The history of the posh night club is inextricably linked to “Strizzi” Werner Schimanko. Owning two establishments already, the Moulin Rouge and Hotel Orient, he took over the Eden in the 1970s – and parked his Rolls Royce on the pavement in front of it to make a questionable statement. Dim lights, lots of plush and the burgundy wallpaper have attracted the crowds until today and many guests have been regulars for decades. 1010 Vienna – Burgring

⑹

E D E N

+43 1 5127450 www.edenbar.at Thu – Sat 10:00pm – 4:00am

Volksgarten Pavillon Oswald Haerdtl enriched Vienna with his Café Prückel, Hotel Bristol and the confectionary Altmann & Kühne. Yet another of his masterpieces can be found close to the Hofburg: the Volksgarten Pavillon, a jewel from the 1950s. Today, the former milk bar ranges among the best party venues in town. Every year in summer, the pavilion and its attached terraced gardens turn into a muchloved open air venue. You can sit down at small, dimly lit tables right under old chestnut trees. On the porch swing you can marvel at giant sunflowers. The pétanque court invites you to a boule session (the goal: getting the ball as close as possible to the target ball), and

B A R

Liliengasse 2 1010 Vienna Stephansplatz

⑺

finally you can roll your cigarettes outside again. During the day, the beautiful garden with its own little creek is a peaceful oasis for the elderly and tourists. Later in the day, the younger and hipper crowds begin to arrive. At 6:30 pm chef Matthias Zykan turns on his BBQ smoker and starts cooking his celebrated British sausages, pork belly burgers and sweet potatoes. As an alternative, he serves grilled fish on a stick. After dinner, the party lasts until the early morning hours, especially on Tuesdays with clubbing series Technocafé in the house. For 20 years, dance aficionados of all ages have mingled to the sounds of local and international DJs. How many sickies are pulled the next day? We don’t even want to know. We V O L K S G A R T E N P A V I L L O N can also strongly recommend the events Burgring that take place at the remaining days 1010 Vienna of the week. Mondays are filled with Volkstheater Swingin’ Jazz and Thursdays are “Lost in +43 1 5320907 Bass”. Friday and Saturday events www.volksgarten-pavillon.at change regularly so it’s best to refer to daily 11:00am – 2:00am the website for these days.

12pts 1060 Vienna – Nelkengasse

Tanzcafé Jenseits

⑻

An insider tip for people in search of the slightly morbid charm characteristic of Vienna from the 1950s to the 1970s. Not far from Mariahilfer Straße, the city’s busy shopping mile, the establishment captivates with a (sometimes) tasteful selection of music, plush tapestry and the T A N Z C A F É J E N S E I T S regulars’ murmurs Nelkengasse 3 – the later the 1060 Vienna evening, the more Neubaugasse interesting the +43 1 5871233 guests. www.tanzcafe-jenseits.com Tue – Sat 8:00pm – 4:00am

1070 Vienna – Bandgasse

Hotel am Brillantengrund

⑼

The romantic side of Vienna is perfectly embodied by the Hotel am Brillantengrund: an Italian-style courtyard, complete with palm trees and geraniums, rooms that are reminiscent of the 1950s, and a small café where you can eat Asian specialties prepared by the mother of the Philippine owner. The garage-turned-bar fits perfectly into the mosaic of quirky hotel features. It’s the H O T E L A M ideal place for friends to hang out in a stylish B R I L L A N T E N G R U N D setting dominated by art and vintage Bandgasse 4 furniture – a real hipster’s paradise! 1070 Vienna Every Friday the clubbing series Tingel Neubaugasse Tangel arrives at the Hotel am Brillanten+43 1 5233662 grund and entertains the party crowd. www.brillantengrund.com A converted Piaggio Ape serves as a DJ station Mon – Fri 7:30am – 10:00pm that plays slightly nerdy world hits and tracks Sat – Sun 9:00am – 10:00pm them back to their music origins. 1080 Vienna – Buchfeldgasse

Tür 7

Hot & New!

P I C K U P

⑽

No neon letters, no door sign. If you want to be a guest at Tür 7 you have to pre-register – which is not to say that this is an elitist venue. It’s more because the cocktail bar behind the Town Hall only seats 35 customers. The trio who operate Tür 7 consists of three well-traveled bartenders. One of them is Reinhard Pohorec, Austria’s Bartender of the Year in 2014 who formerly worked in the famous bar at the London Savoy. The number seven is a recurring theme at T Ü R 7 the venue. There are seven cocktails on the Buchfeldgasse 7 menu, all of which are replaced by new ones 1080 Vienna every seven weeks. Rathaus The team is happy to mix other creations +43 664 5463717 upon request. The original bar snacks: www.tuer7.at nuts roasted with Jägermeister and rosemaryMon – Sat 7:00pm – 4:00am flavoured popcorn.

12pts 1060 Vienna – Girardigasse

Puff

P U F F

Girardigasse 10 1060 Vienna Karlsplatz

+43 1 5810931 www.puff-bar.at

Tue – Thu 7:00pm – 2:00am Fri – Sat 7:00pm – 4:00am

K U P

⑾ Vienna’s first gimlet machine can be found in the trendy district around Gumpendorferstraße. At Puff bar – which used to be a brothel, as its name implies. The booths with black leather seats and shiny floor tiles are remainders from its naughty past. The rest of the interior was turned inside out and adorned with quirky PET bottle chandeliers made by design studio Walking Chair. Guests can order one of the gimlet machines that will prepare fresh cocktails at their tables all night long. The cocktail ingredients run through transparent tubes down into the glass, soaking up flavours of cucumber and lime on their way down. Sensationally good highballs (long drinks with soda, tonic or lemonade) are served by the experts behind the bar counter. The ice comes from a Hoshizaki ice machine (which is rather rare in Vienna). Fresh herbs for the finishing touches are supplied by the nearby Naschmarkt and the house Prosecco is tapped from a big cask – quality criteria, all of which have earned the Puff bar an important award. The international gastronomy guide BarChick ranked the Puff bar as the only Viennese establishment among its top 50 bars in Europe.

1020 Vienna – Obere Donaustraße

Tel Aviv Beach

⑿ T E L

A V I V

B E A C H

Obere Donaustraße 69 1020 Vienna Schottenring www.neni.at/tel-aviv daily 12:00pm – midnight

They number among Vienna’s most famous restaurateurs and have an incredible sense for trends. They are Haya Molcho and her sons Nuriel, Elior and Ilan. Apart from their restaurant Neni at Naschmarkt they also run Tel Aviv Beach, a beach club on the Danube Canal that was opened in 2009 on the occasion of the hundredth anniversary of the Israeli metropolis. Tel Aviv Beach stands for pure summer feeling with an international flair, spread over an area of 1,500 square metres. The centrepiece, the 600-square-foot patio is joined by a bar, booths and a large kitchen. Upstairs you’ll find a more intimate setting on little terraces for which architect Eva Berezin created a Bauhaus-style glass cube.

Every year international delicacies and renowned DJs attract the party crowds who celebrate long after sunset. A special service: you don’t have to pick up your food and beverages at the bar. Hummus plates, couscous salads and pita sandwiches are served at the table throughout the entire venue. New since 2014: the homemade Neni ice cream (peanut caramel, chocolate brownie, limonana), a stage for live concerts and Polaroid photo boxes with smile cam where you can take fun photos with your loved ones.

12pts M A R I A N N E KO H N – E M P R E S S O F T H E N I G H T

“We are a museum with drinks” Kunsthistorisches Museum (“Museum of Art History”) Burgring 5, 1010 Vienna U2 Museumsquartier “For me, the KHM is the most beautiful museum in the world – not only because of the art, but also because of the spaces,” says Marianne Kohn.

Café Europa Zollergasse 8, 1070 Vienna U3 Neubaugasse The eatery serves food until 4 am in the morning. Marianne Kohn used to work there. “Today I live around the corner.”

MAR IAN N E KOH N Her family designed the interior spaces of Adolf Loos buildings including the Museum Café. “Even as a girl, I thought it’d be great to work there,” she remembers. After many years in the club scene (Technisches Museum, U4) Kohn fulfilled her big dream in 1995: at the age of 50 she took over the poorly performing “Loos Bar”, close to St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Today, many locals refer to the bar quite simply as “Marianne’s”.

P O R T

Jewish Museum Dorotheergasse 11, 1010 Vienna U1, U3 Stephansplatz

Café Mentone Kirchengasse 7, 1070 Vienna

An insider tip, two blocks from the Loos bar. Current exhibition: “RINGSTRASSE. A Jewish Boulevard”.

Retro flair, yet authentic: located close to the shopping street Mariahilferstraße with original interior from the 1960s.

enim dungarees, green sneakers and arms covered with tattoos – you probably wouldn’t imagine many 70-year-olds in Vienna’s city centre to look like this. But then again, Marianne Kohn isn’t just any inhabitant of the picturesque first district with all its museums – she’s an institution herself. “We are not a bar but a museum that serves drinks,” is how she defines the past two decades of her life. She is referring to the American Bar by architect Adolf Loos, which today is colloquially called “Loos” after its designer. “You have nerves of steel,” is what she heard from the typically skeptical and risk-averse Viennese when she took over the helm of the bar that first opened its door in 1908. The years had taken their toll on the establishment and for almost a decade it had remained shut. “But my friends from the club scene helped me to set it up again, and Niki Lauda and Falco regularly popped in.” The unique cocktail bar has even attracted Hollywood stars like Brad Pitt. Even German cult actor Udo Kier, who is currently filming the TV series Altes Geld (Old Money)

R A I T

in Austria came by only a few days ago and asked, “Where is Marianne?” Design has always played a major role in Kohn’s family. Around 1900 Jacob and Josef Kohn popularised the bentwood technique, a principle that millions of cafe chairs have been built after. “My grandfather sold the rights to Thonet,” reveals Kohn. Back then the family also collaborated with the designers of the Wiener Werkstätte: Josep Hoffman’s Sitzmaschine (“machine for sitting”) is a Kohn product. The company, whose designs are exhibited in the MoMA in New York, is regarded by many as the founding father of industrial design. Marianne Kohn herself especially loves the Art Brut movement and its mentally disordered painters based in Maria Gugging near Vienna. “In a very special way, the paintings of a madman are strikingly honest,” she explains. Kohn has been vegetarian for 30 years because of her love for animals. She divides her time between the city centre and her home district Mariahilf. “Anything north of the Danube is foreign territory for me.”

12pts

⑴

WHY NOT

⑵

CAFÉ SAVOY

⑶

MANGO BAR

⑷

SANTO SPIRITO

⑸

CAFÉ BERG

⑹

VILLAGE BAR

⑺

CAFÉ WILLENDORF

⑻

EAGLE VIENNA

⑼

Vom åndern Ufa 62

LGBT Vienna

MOTTO

⑽

KAISERBRÜNDL

⑾ SLING

⑿

LIFE BALL

12pts

L G B T

Lucy McEvil Actress, Diseuse

Well, back in the days when forbidden things were still forbidden, everybody was friends with everybody who – according to the “moral majority” – wasn’t 100% virtuous and decent. Today, every strata of society has developed in a new direction to create its own universe. That’s why you have to be much better informed these days in order to have an amorous adventure in Vienna.

V I E N N A

The fictional character Lucy McEvil was born in 1999. “She’s an ancient person who’s only held together by plastic surgery.” ... continued on page 69

12pts 1010 Vienna – Tiefer Graben

Why Not

L G B T V I E N N A

⑴

Vienna’s Why Not already existed when gay was still a dirty word. There are many anecdotes about this night club – a classic of the city’s gay scene – offering many a man a safe haven after party-related quarrels with the police. Even today, the Kiberer (local term for police officers) would not dare to enter Why Not, which makes it all the more adventurous inside. The club is one of the few institutions of gay Viennese party culture that has managed to maintain its authenticity despite the enormous developments that have taken place over the past decades in this sector. If you haven’t quite made up your mind about whether you prefer men or women, you are more welcome at Why Not, too. And so are experimental girls. Want to continue your amorous W H Y N O T adventure in a wicked yet tasteful Tiefer Graben 22 setting? Head straight to the Orient 1010 Vienna hotel, Vienna’s most legendary Herrengasse pay-by-the-hour hotel and one-of-awww.why-not.at kind Baroque-style playground.

Fri – Sat and before public holidays 10:00pm – 4:00am

1060 Vienna – Linke Wienzeile

Café Savoy Do you like it the French way? No need to pay a lot of money to rent a hotel room at the Orient. Vienna, the former imperial capital offers many places for picture-perfect Baroque moments – but it probably doesn’t get more impressive than at Café Savoy, Vienna’s most pompous gay cafe. Designed by one of Sicardsburg’s students (the gay architect who designed the Vienna State Opera), it opened in the 19th century as a house of pleasure. It’s basically a mini version of the Hall of Mirrors and definitely worth a visit, especially if you feel more like a Baroque libertine than a stodgy postmodernist. At Café Savoy both twenty-someC A F É S A V O Y things and older Linke Wienzeile 36 gentlemen mingle 1060 Vienna Kettenbrückengasse and it’s known to be the perfect + 43 1 5867348 www.savoy.at starting point for a night out. If you’re new to the city or only here for the weekend you can meet prospective party Mon – Thu 12:00pm – 2:00am Fri 12:00pm – 3:00am companions in a relaxed atmosphere before heading Sat 9:00am – 3:00am to one of the city’s many gay nightclubs located only a few Sun 9:00am – 2:00am minutes away.

⑵

12pts 1060 Vienna – Laimgrubengasse

Mango Bar

⑶ After you’ve given yourself the necessary Dutch courage at Village or Café Savoy you might want to venture to the Mango bar – the living room of Vienna’s young gay scene operated by the owners of Why Not. It’s a popular after-hours hotspot for chatting up new people. And since you cannot really peek inside from the streets (unlike at the Village) the atmosphere can get very M A N G O B A R flirty and uninhibited. Laimgrubengasse 3 The Mango bar isn’t a cruisy club 1060 Vienna per se but if you’re looking for a Kettenbrückengasse fling, this is the right place to go. The www.why-not.at interior is stylish and the drinks are daily 9:00pm – 4:00am decent.

1010 Vienna – Kumpfgasse

Santo Spirito

S A N T O

S P I R I T O

Kumpfgasse 7 1010 Vienna Stephansplatz Stubenring +43 1 5129998 www.santospirito.at daily 6:00pm – 2:00am

⑷

Santo Spirito is a true gem and a real insider tip. Located right in the middle of the first district, the Italian-style restaurant and bar offers exquisite food, serves excellent Austrian wines and plays romantic Baroque music in the background. If you like venues with a slightly aristocratic and sophisticated touch, this is the place to be. The establishment might not be a dedicated gay location but in practice, a majority of the guests are men accompanied by other men. The name derives from the central decorative element of the interior: a stuffed gilded dove.

1090 Vienna – Berggasse

Café Berg

G B T V I E N N A

⑸

Café Berg is located on the same street as Sigmund Freud’s former apartment and practice and has played an integral part in the history of Vienna’s LGBT community since the late-1990s. Finished all the newspapers at Café Berg? The neighbouring LGBT bookstore Löwenherz offers more interesting stuff to read. The alliance between the two establishments as well as the cafe’s proximity to the university C A F É B E R G make it a very special place with a peaceful, Berggasse 8 subtly intellectual atmosphere. 1090 Vienna We can recommend both breakfast and Schottentor lunch menus. Don’t worry, you don’t have +43 1 3195720 to be enrolled on a gender studies course in www.cafe-berg.at order to fit in. Tue – Sat 10:00am – 11:00pm Why not come here after visiting the Sun 10:00am – 3:00pm Sigmund Freud museum?

12pts 1060 Vienna – Stiegengasse

Village Bar Village on Stiegengasse is a trendy little gay bar with decent drinks, loud music and flat screens playing music videos on a loop. Typically rammed with the city’s handsome young gays dancing the night away to house and RnB tunes, the crowd can be described as civilised and flirty. It is run by the owners of Why Not and welcomes all V I L L A G E the boys who might be unsure Stiegengasse 8 about whether or not to walk 1060 Vienna past the doors of Sling. Kettenbrückengasse The guests are mostly 35 www.why-not.at and under.

L G B T V I E N N A

⑹

daily 8:00pm – 3:00am

1060 Vienna – Linke Wienzeile

Café Willendorf

⑺

The pink / purple building that is home to Vienna’s Willendorf is a popular meeting point for the local LGBT scene and characterised by a slightly nostalgic touch. The history of the venue dates back to a time when feeling different based on your sexual orientation was still a major issue. C A F É W I L L E N D O R F At Willendorf, you Linke Wienzeile 102 won’t find the stereo1060 Vienna typical white, priviPilgramgasse leged, male party jet set +43 1 5871789 but a colourful mix of queer people of all sexual inclinations. www.cafe-willendorf.at It’s a cosy cafe that also welcomes lesbians. Michael daily 5:00pm – 1:00am and Rich serve hot food on the ground floor: select from a Sun brunch 10:00am – 3:00pm range of home-cooked dishes including vegan options. 1060 Vienna – Blümelgasse

Eagle Vienna

⑻

The name says it all. Do you have a predilection for sturdy men? At Eagle Vienna you won’t find any labels like Prada, Armani or Gaultier but only the stuff that real men’s dreams are made off: jeans and leather. If you have a soft spot for gay retro chic from the 1980s and want an authentic audience, this cruise club is the right choice for you. The E A G L E V I E N N A establishment also has a wide range Blümelgasse 1 of sex toys on offer – not only for you to 1060 Vienna take home but also to try on the spot Neubaugasse in the in-house dark room. +43 1 5872661 Remember to ring the bell to be adwww.eagle-vienna.at mitted. Despite its general theme, the venue isn’t too Mon – Sat 9:00pm – 4:00am strict with dress-codes.

12pts 1050 Vienna – Schönbrunnerstraße

Motto

⑼

Stylish, cosmopolitan, slick! Motto on Schönbrunnerstraße offers impeccable cocktails and drinks (giving the neighbouring American bars a run for their money), contemporary Francophile cuisine and top international DJs. A conceptual blend of bar, restaurant and club, Motto isn’t a gay location as such but it definitely attracts a large gay and gay-friendly crowd, not least because it is a popular meeting place for the international fashion jet set and everybody associated with it. It’s the perfect location M O T T O for both your business dinner Schönbrunnerstraße 30 and a nightcap afterwards. It 1050 Vienna is not to be confused with Pilgramgasse Motto am Fluss, which is run +43 1 5870672 by the same team and has a www.motto.at similar atmosphere but can be Sun – Thu 6:00pm – 2:00am regarded more of a proper Fri, Sat 6:00pm – 4:00am restaurant. 1010 Vienna – Weihburggasse

Kaiserbründl

L G B T V

⑽

I E N N A

The Kaiserbründl in Vienna’s city centre is At this point, let us mention one thing, however: if you’re 35 one of those places that you would refer to as a “gentlemen’s or under you will probably not be able to avoid any kind of sauna”. It’s listed in many guidebooks as the most distinguished sexual approaches, for the simple reason that you’ll most likely be bathing establishment in Vienna. And in fact, the bath house spans the youngest at the multi-storey sauna. This doesn’t have to be a history of almost 2,000 years. a bad thing per se but its owners don’t publicly advertise it either. The private well was already discovered by the Romans. The opening times might feel a bit old-fashReopened in the 19th century as the so-called ioned: at around 11 pm the lights are switched “Centralbad” with a sumptuous interior K A I S E R B R Ü N D L on and at midnight it’s closing time. But don’t and its patrons included many distinguished Weihburggasse 18–20 worry, the Bründl is almost empty by then gentlemen including “Luziwuzi” (Archduke 1010 Vienna anyway. Ludwig Viktor), the younger brother of EmStephansplatz If you don’t want access to the sauna, cruising peror Franz Joseph. Today’s name Kaiser+43 1 5133293 area or gym, you won’t have to pay the entrance bründl goes back to the source of the river www.kaiserbruendl.at fee. The front bar and bistro area is open free of Wien. The historic interior of the bath is still daily 2:00pm – 11:30pm charge – but reserved for men. intact today and makes every visit worthwhile.

12pts 1040 Vienna – Kettenbrückengasse

Sling

Sling in the 4th district makes no secret of what it is: a cruising club. You can even tell from the way the entrance looks. If you don’t find the interior too sterile, this is the place for you to satisfy your sexual needs and act out your fantasies. The bar has a strict men-only policy and you will find likeminded fellas in search of fun. While there might be one or two call boys – which is quite common for a cruising club like this – they are rarely intrusive. You can first have a drink at the bar on the S L I N G ground floor before Kettenbrückengasse 4 heading to the down1040 Vienna stairs area where Kettenbrückengasse the action takes place. +43 1 5862362 Bouncers make sure that nobody dodgy www.sling.at enters the premises. On a side note, Sling also daily 3:00pm – 4:00am hosts theme parties.

L G B T V I E N N A

⑾

1010 Vienna – Vienna City Hall

Life Ball

⑿

organised by Gery Keszler is attended by countless celebrities from the international fashion, art and music industry. Tickets are limited and clearly not a bargain but they will be worth every penny – and don’t forget that it’s for a good cause, too: the fight of HIV / AIDS which everybody – regardless of sex, age, social status or sexual preference – should be aware of. The theme of this year’s Life Ball is “Gold – Ver Sacrum” and makes reference to the art movement around the Vienna Secession: think Gustav Klimt, Otto Wagner and Josef Hoffmann. Bold, daring and innovative looks are crucial to the Life Ball and guests with a crazy outfit can snap up a discounted “Style Ticket”, true to Vienna is internationally known as the city of balls. Every year in the motto: save lives with your creativity. winter the Viennese travel back to 1815 and waltz the night Those who aren’t sure away, forgetting that it’s actually the 21st century. how to dress up for the event The most colourful and probably most L I F E B A L L find relevant inspiration on famous ball that is hosted in Vienna does not, howVienna City Hall ever, take place during the traditional ball season the website www.stylebible.org. Friedrich-Schmidt-Platz 1 and it certainly doesn’t celebrate bygone social conYou can also wear a classic 1010 Vienna ventions. The Vienna Life Ball is one of the worlds tuxedo. Rathaus biggest HIV / AIDS charity events that has taken Are you ready to rub +43 1 5955600 place in front of the Town Hall every year for the shoulders with Jean www.lifeball.org last 23 years. This year’s edition takes place on May Paul Gaultier, Elton John and 16/05/2015 9:00pm opening ceremony Conchita Wurst? 16, marking the glamorous highlight of the queer (open to the public) party calendar. Every year, the star-studded event

12pts L U CY M c E V I L – AC T R E S S , D I S E U S E

Travesty in the allotment plot Motto Schönbrunnerstraße 30, 1050 Vienna U4 Pilgramgasse One of the trendiest restaurants with “the coolest toilets in town”, as Lucy McEvil likes to say. A mixed audience and excellent food served until late at night. Tina Turner, Prince and Paris Hilton like it, too.

LUCY McE VI L Naschmarkt 1060 Vienna U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz, U4 Kettenbrückengasse At Naschmarkt and its surrounding areas you’ll find great bars and cafes like Café Savoy and Mango bar (for the boys) next to LGBT hotspots including the Willendorf and HOSI (“Homosexuelle Initiative Wien”).

Bookstore Löwenherz Berggasse 8, 1090 Vienna U2 Schottentor

The fictional character Lucy McEvil was born in 1999. “She’s an ancient person who’s only held together by plastic surgery.” Ever since she has worked as an actress, diseuse, DJ and host – mostly in Austria but also internationally. She lives in the 14th district of Vienna in her allotment residence called “Villa Valium” – without a car, phone or TV.

Vienna’s first and only LGBT bookstore. Stocks more than 12,000 publications. The team is competent and committed. They also initiated the first Regenbogenparade (Vienna’s gay pride parade).

“V

ienna lies at my feet,” Lucy McEvil says. Literally. From her allotment shed in Vienna Penzing, she can view as far as the Küniglberg and Lainzer Tiergarten (a wildlife preserve in the southwest corner of the city). A quiet hideaway with a large garden. The name “Villa Valium” fits perfectly. Lucy McEvil has lived here for 30 years, surrounded by allotment gardens, with leopard wallpapers and Pippi Longstocking on the wall. McEvil is a fictional character coined by a Blood, Sweat & Tears song. McEvil, a man in real life, has been performing on stage for 15 years: as an actress, diseuse, DJ, and host. “I appreciate the variety,” she says. “But being an artist is a very precarious existence. You need many different pillars to make a living.” Today, Lucy McEvil can live off her artist’s existence comfortably. The former waitress at Cafe Berg first came to the public's attention with her sitcom Villa Valium and later with her solo show Winterreise (Winter Journey). She also played the roles of Mrs. Cheveley in Oscar Wilde’s An Ideal Husband and Grete in Werner Schwab’s The Presidents.

P O R T R A I T

These characters are old-fashioned and sexist – and in this way become relevant in today’s society again. “Imagine a politician had an affair with a transsexual or transvestite today – this would still be a hot topic”, she says, referring to her portrayal of Mrs. Cheveley in the production of Wilde’s classic at the Viennese 3raum-Anatomietheater. “What I’m doing is basically travesty. But if you drop this term, you immediately get fourth-rate playback shows with feathers in your bum and dirty jokes. This has never interested me.” McEvil’s vocal repertoire ranges from the traditional Wienerlied to the chanson. She also stands behind the turntables at Motto and hosts the Vienna Regenbogenball (Rainbow Ball). With such an exciting public life, it’s no wonder that Lucy McEvil’s private side is much quieter. In her spare time she likes reading, knitting and gardening. “Off with the garter belts and into the garden”, McEvil says. She tries to lead a life as simple as possible – without a mobile phone, TV or car. “I like to drink a gin and tonic, so a car wouldn’t be a good idea anyway.” She prefers to take a taxi. The city centre is only 15 minutes away.

12pts

⑴

CAFFÈCOUTURE

⑵

CAFE KORB

⑶

KAFFEEMODUL

⑷

BRÄUNERHOF

Hot & New!

⑸ EL.AN

⑹

CAFÉ IMPERIAL

⑺

BALTHASAR

⑻

WIENER RÖSTHAUS

⑼

KLEINES CAFÉ

⑽

KAFFEMIK

Kaffeeheiser 70

Kick-starter

⑾

CAFÉ HAWELKA

Hot & New!

⑿

JONAS REINDL

You typically don’t binge drink at a coffee house. Yes, you might have a small cognac or two but at a coffee house you mostly consume coffee. Apart from that, you can also have impeccable breakfasts at coffee houses, in all common forms. But let us single out the socalled “Eier im Glas”, eggs in a glass: two soft-boiled eggs, meticulously peeled, served in a specially produced Old Viennese-style glass. Have yours with a buttered bread roll and you can feel like a real emperor – at least until “Herr Ober”, the waiter, cordially brings your bill.

Pinie Wang DJ, artist, business woman

12pts

Pinie Wang’s roots are in China. Born in 1979 in Beijing, she discovered her passion for music in elementary school: pop music instead of propaganda songs thanks to the Cultural Revolution ... continued on page 77

K I C K S T A R T E R

12pts 1010 Vienna – Freyung

CaffèCouture

K I C K S T A R T E R

⑴

Many Viennese agree that he serves the best espresso in town: Georg Branny, son of Viennese café owners, award-winning barista and inventor of a Bacardi espresso cocktail. Since 2010 he has run CaffèCouture, a place of pilgrimage for coffee lovers with branches in the ninth district (Garnisongasse 18) and the Palais Ferstl. His private blend (yes, personally blended and roasted!) is made of 100 % Arabica beans. Georg Branny buys it directly from the coffee farmers (“We know the names of farmers and their farms”). The hot beverage is prepared with La Marzocco machines from Florence. Lovers of filter coffee get their daily caffeine doses straight from the Chemex hourglass carafe into their cups. If you prefer your C A F F È C O U T U R E coffee less bitter, opt for the Freyung 2 Cold Brew, which is 1010 Vienna filtered with the Japanese Schottentor Hario Water Dripper +43 676 3322076 for six hours, after which www.caffecouture.com Georg Branny serves Mon – Fri 8:00am – 5:00pm it ice-cold in shot glasses. Sat 10:00am – 5:00pm

1010 Vienna – Brandstätte

Café Korb

⑵

Where will you find the best apple strudel and most charismatic cafe owner in town? We won’t lie, it has to be at Café Korb, which was founded in 1904. Actress, performance artist and cosmopolitan Susanne Widl has managed the institution since 2000. She refurbished the 1950s interior, installed an art lounge in the basement and revitalised the terrace. Once a month local intellectuals gather together to discuss works by Günter Brus, Peter Kogler and Peter Weibel at the “First Viennese Philosophers’ Café”. Every once in a while readings take place with C A F É K O R B authors including Peter Turrini and Elfriede Jelinek. Brandstätte 9 1010 Vienna Another addition to the Stephansplatz basement are the new toilet facil+43 1 5337215 ities which guests affectionately www.cafekorb.at call “the spaceship”. Built in 2004 Mon – Sat 8:00am – midnight by architect Manfred WolffSun and public holidays 10:00am – 11:00pm Plottegg, it caused quite a stir with its futuristic design made of aluminium, steel and corrugated iron sheets. The menu is a real treat: every day from 8 am, Café Korb serves traditional breakfast with handmade bread rolls, a hard-boiled egg and chive bread or more exotic options including ham rolls, scrambled eggs with sausages or mayonnaise eggs. Lovers of quality pub food get their money’s worth at lunch time. Indulge in classics like schnitzel, prime boiled beef or roast beef.

12pts 1080 Vienna – Josefstädter Straße

Kaffeemodul

⑶

Discover this tiny cafe on tram line 2 that serves wonderful coffee prepared by a team that knows their craft: Boris Ortner and Valentin Freyler, winners of three trophies at the State Cup 2014. The Upper Austrian and North German run Kaffeemodul, specialising in blends with a fruity and acidic note and a chocolatey and nutty flavour profile. The coffee at Kaffeemodul K A F F E E M O D U L comes from Hamburg Josefstädter Straße 35 coffee roasters Quijote and is 1080 Vienna typically served to go. Rathaus Have a delicious pastry Josefstädterstraße with your coffee from +43 680 2228039 confectioner Zola Auböck, www.kaffeemodul.at who supplies the cafe with apple pies, orange and almond cakes Mon – Fri 7:30am – 5:30pm and brownies fresh from her own cake factory at Karmelitermarkt. 1010 Vienna – Stallburggasse

Bräunerhof

K I

⑷

El.an

Hot & New!

K -

The Bräunerhof is a place of tranquillity – with the exception of weekends, perhaps, when the Bräunerhof Trio performs classical pieces for piano, cello and violin. The eatery, which is located between Hofburg and Graben, used to be a regular hangout of writer Thomas Bernhard. Tucked away in a district that’s known for its many antiques shops, it’s a haven for coffee lovers who want to enjoy a melange while reading the newspaper. The menu offers two lunch deals B R Ä U N E R H O F for seven euros with classics such Stallburggasse 2 as goulash and schnitzel. The ham and 1010 Vienna cheese toast or the freshly baked Stephansplatz Gugelhupf are the perfect snack choices +43 1 5123893 for in between. www.braeunerhof.at Nothing here is fancy, nothing Mon – Fri 8:00am – 9:00pm here is hip. Warm wood, cosy benches Sat 8:00am – 7:00pm and lots of patina – at Bräunerhof Sun 10:00am – 7:00pm time stands still. 1010 Vienna – Werdertorgasse

S T A R T E R

⑸

EL and AN are the first two syllables of Elke and Anna as well as the name of the power duo’s first Third Wave cafe close to the Schottenring. Elke Lackner and Anna Pacher wanted to demonstrate that it’s possible “to enjoy a coffee beyond the traditional framework”. Even outside the bobo districts Mariahilf and Neubau. In the middle of the first district, which is famous for its venerable coffee houses and where tourists and locals are used to grumpy waiters serving Verlängerte, you’ll meet this charming team E L . A N brewing coffee from beans supplied by barista champion Werdertorgasse 4 George Branny. 1010 Vienna Two different coffee types are on offer: a Brazilian blend with Schottenring a hint of bitter cocoa and a fruity Arabacia coffee straight +43 699 10905595 from Costa Rica. www.cafe-elan.at Visually the El.an almost resembles a Zen temple: generous Mon – Fri 8:00am – 5:30pm in space, carefully selected furniture and straight lines.

12pts 1010 Vienna – Kärntner Ring

Café Imperial

K I C K S T A R T E R

Could you think of anything more pleasant than returning to the Imperial on a daily basis for a piece of cake? The cafe located in the eponymous fivestar hotel on the Ringstraße is a haven of luxury and history. Opened in 1873, the cafe is today a discrete and inspiring place for thinkers, writers, musicians, maestri and businesspeople. Composer Anton Bruckner used to get an extra serving of Gugelhupf here, and opera director Gustav Mahler would arrive in his tailcoat and be mistaken for a waiter. Rainer Maria Rilke, Karl Kraus and Arthur Schnitzler used to discuss art or write poetry here. The specialty of the house is the Imperial cake, which is prepared according to a secret recipe that includes marzipan and chocolate milk. Packed in C A F É I M P E R I A L wooden boxes, they are shipped all over the Kärntner Ring 16 world. 1010 Vienna However, we recommend that you stay in and Karlsplatz enjoy one of them at one of the window seats. +43 1 50110389 Further culinary highlights: homemade Kaiserwww.cafe-imperial.at schmarrn and prime boiled beef! daily 7:00am – 11:00pm

1020 Vienna – Praterstraße

Balthasar

⑺ From award-winning chef to coffee connoisseur: this is the career of Otto Bayer. The Tyrolean chef managed his parents’ country inn for twenty years, earning two Gault-Millau toques. In 2007 the stress got too much and Otto Bayer decided to take a creative break. When his friend Eugenie Arlt, an interior designer, decided it was time to go to the city, the duo made their way to Vienna. Bayer found a space in his favourite area (“I’ve always loved the second district”), and Arlt took charge of the interior design of what would soon become the Balthasar. The former video store now boasts a mosaic bar counter and golden bubble lamps from London. On the menu: sustainable coffee from German roasting house Wildkaffee (who import their beans from Kenya, Ethiopia and Brazil). Bayer also serves ChariTea from B A L T H A S A R Hamburg, Sauvignon blanc from Praterstraße 38 the South Styrian vineyard Strablegg1020 Vienna Leitner as well as pies, croissants Nestroyplatz and cakes from Zola Auböck’s pie +43 664 3816855 factory. The latter is located at Karmewww.balthasar.at litergasse 1 and is also worth a visit. Mon – Fri 7:30am – 7:00pm Sat 9:00am – 5:00pm

⑹

12pts 1080 Vienna – Tigergasse

Wiener Rösthaus

⑻

While others “only” set up a café, Helmut Brem and partner Silvia Maino set up an entire Rösthaus (roast house). The former roadie and coffee sommelière opened one on Josefstädterstraße boasting prominently placed roasters, various showcases and several coffee-making facilities. The 120-year-old floor tiles from the Wilhelminenspital are another eye-catcher. Twelve coffee varieties from Ethiopia, Brazil W I E N E R R Ö S T H A U S and Hawaii are on offer – either to enjoy on the Tigergasse 33 spot or to take away. Each single-estate coffee is 1080 Vienna made of 100 % Arabica beans. The roast house Josefstädterstraße shop area offers mocha pots and coffee grinders +43 1 4022886 (for example from Zassenhaus) and will make www.wienerroesthaus.at every coffee connoisseur’s heart leap for joy. Tue – Fri 10:00am – 6:00pm You will also find chocolates, teas, muscovado Sat 9:00am – 1:00pm sugar and Viennese honey. 1010 Vienna – Franziskanerplatz

Kleines Café

K I

⑼

S T A R T

Mon – Sat 10:00am – 2:00am Sun 1:00pm – 2:00am

Kaffemik

K -

Vienna’s art and architecture scenes come together in different ways in the Kleines Café. Host Hanno Pöschl is well-known as an actor in many guest roles, and as restaurant host he now personally greets his artist colleagues. Vienna architect Hermann Czech, who sees his mission as the “architecture of the background”, refurbished the Kleines Café three times until everything seemed as if it simply had to be that way. K L E I N E S C A F É His invisible architecture Franziskanerplatz 3 forms the backdrop for 1010 Vienna lively guest and hosting roles. Stephansplatz

1070 Vienna – Zollergasse

⑽

Seven software developers were looking for an adventure – so they opened a restaurant during their lunch break. A former piercing studio is now a chic barista bar: kaffemik with specially designed oak furniture, a turquoise tiled counter and an unusual name. Each month, the team introduces coffee from another small European roaster. It started off with The Barn K A F F E M I K from Berlin, Dropcoffee from Zollergasse 5 Stockholm and Caravan Coffee from London. 1070 Vienna The name kaffemik derives from traditional tea parties in GreenNeubaugasse land: it’s an Inuit tradition that the lady of the house invites the www.kaffemik.at whole village over for coffee and homemade cake. Mon – Fri 8:00am – 6:00pm The chocolate cake and croissants at kaffemik might not be homeSat 10:00am – 6:00pm made, but they are supplied by the neighbouring Tart’a Tata.

12pts 1010 Vienna – Dorotheergasse

Café Hawelka

K I

C A F É

H A W E L K A

Dorotheergasse 6 1010 Vienna Stephansplatz

+43 1 5128230 www.hawelka.at

Mon – Wed 8:00am – midnight Thu – Sat 8:00am – 1:00am Sun and public holidays 10:00am – midnight

⑾ Every young and energetic artist from the 1960s, including HC Artmann, Friedensreich Hundertwasser, Ernst Fuchs and Helmut Qualtinger would find their way to Café Hawelka. After politicians and journalists discovered the eatery it turned into an institution – and owners Leopold and Josefine became local legends. While Leopold used to sit at the entrance to welcome arriving guests, Josefine was in the kitchen preparing her famous Buchteln (pastries filled with plum jam): a recipe from of her Bohemian mother-in-law. Buchteln are still on the menu, although Leopold and Josefine are now deceased. Son Günter and grandsons Amir and Michael unwaveringly continue the history of the cafe. Almost nothing has changed from the 1912 art nouveau interior. Think small marble tables, Thonet chairs, a panelled ceiling, and posters from exhibitions, concerts and readings on the walls.

T A R T E R

1090 Vienna – Währinger Straße

Hot & New!

Jonas Reindl

⑿

trips to Vienna’s coffee shops he finally met Nicholas Hartmann at Cafe.atelier on Zieglergasse, the 2014 Brewers Cup champion, a chartered architect and owner of a small roasting plant in Lower Austria. They became business partners and today they offer Direct Trade coffee at Jonas Reindl: a Brazilian natural variety from a farm called Hacienda Rodomunho with every single bean traceable to its origin. Philip Feyer prepares his coffee in several ways, for example with the espresso pot “Moka Express” by Bialetti or the pour-over Chemex carafe. Philip Feyer selects his food with equal care and love: soups Locals know what’s meant by “Jonas-Reindl”: the tram station, and oatmeals are made from regional and seasonal ingredients, officially named Schottentor. Round like a pan (a Reindl) and and the wood-fired bagels have been opened in 1960 by then-mayor Franz Jonas, it is meticulously developed with baker colloquially known as “Jonas-Reindl”. This is where J O N A S R E I N D L Helmut Gragger. Philip Feyer opened his first coffee shop. Währinger Straße 2–4 The decor comes from flea A trained barista, he focuses on speciality coffees. 1090 Vienna markets from all over Europe. Philip “I was born and raised in Vienna, but I spent a lot Schottentor Freyer’s favourite pieces in his of time with my sister in New York where I first came +43 664 1980040 cafe: the industrial chairs by Rowac, a iacross the concept of third-wave coffee,” says Philip. www.jonasreindl.at design classic made in Germany. His first experiences soon turned into a real love Mon – Fri 7:30am – 10:00pm and passion for coffee. After his barista training at the Sat 10:00am – 10:00pm Berlin School of Coffee and numerous research

12pts P I N I E WA N G – D J , A R T I S T, B U S I N E S S W O M A N

Creative life stage hopping

Monsieur Yong Rechte Wienzeile 9a, 1040 Vienna U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz Street food from Beijing served by a young couple from China in a mini restaurant at Naschmarkt. Pinie Wang loves it: “It’s really authentic!” PI N I E WA NG

Heuer am Karlsplatz Treitlstraße 2, 1040 Vienna U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz Bert Jachmann, one of the country’s best bartenders, prepares cocktails at the bar Heuer am Karlsplatz. Wang recommends Styrian sour with pumpkin seed oil.

Born in 1979 in Beijing. Came to Vienna in 1991. She was trained as a graphic designer in Graz before entering the world of music, fashion and art. She has also worked in an academic setting.

R R A I

Designer Jessica Lopez creates hats and fashion – individual, eccentric and crazy. Lopez’s motto: “Whatever I plant on my head, I’ll do it.”

O T

Verhutung Sechsschimmelgasse 7/2, 1090 Vienna U6 Währinger Straße - Volksoper

inie Wang is in her mid-30s. She’s a DJ, artist, designer and business woman. “My life is made up of several stages: an artistic one, an academic one and a businessminded one.” At the moment she’s employed by the Telecom Austria Group to negotiate roaming agreements with Asian countries. Pinie Wang’s roots are in China. Born in 1979 in Beijing, she discovered her passion for music in elementary school: pop music instead of propaganda songs thanks to the Cultural Revolution. She spent her pocket money on cassettes and recorded her own mix tapes with modern sounds from Japan or Taiwan. “Music was a form of escapism from the grey world of communism,” she says today. In 1991, Wang’s mother took her to Graz. Her parents are divorced. Of course she didn’t leave her tape collections behind. “For me, Austria was a music heaven.” She studied graphic design in Graz, followed by a business course in Vienna. In 2007, she started her career as a DJ. Wang stood behind the turntables both in Austria and abroad, performing with the likes of Parov Stelar and Uffie. Together with boyfriend Matt Modny she would soon score

T a big coup: Myyy Bitch Club (MBC), a clubbing series for party people of any style, at a time when the minimal clubs swore by understatement. “We were flashy and trashy, and mixed hits with electronic music.” MBC was a huge success. And only the beginning. Wang created a compilation for the MUMOK, got her own photo exhibition and presented a fashion collection in the MuseumQuartier, always with reference to China. She completed her degree and began to write her doctoral thesis at the University of Music and Performing Arts. Since 2012 Pinie Wang can call herself Dr. Wang and her book on Music and Advertising was published in 2013. It deals with the influence of advertising and media on the music industry. Music continues to be an integral part of her life. Today, she regularly performs at Motto and Fabios. She also played a set at a press event for Alexander Wang’s H&M designer collaboration. “It has all become a bit more professional,” Wang laughs. Sometimes she takes photos at press events, sometimes she helps her friends with graphic design jobs. And what’s the next chapter in her life? Who knows. But for now, it’s roaming agreements with Asia.

12pts

⑴

JOHN HARRIS

⑵

MON CORPS

⑶

SAINT CHARLES APOTHEKE

⑷

MINUSPLUS

⑸

SACHER SPA

⑹

WAX IN THE CITY

⑺

NAILS2GO

⑻

STADTHALLENBAD

⑼

G’schneizt und G’kamplt 78

Nip and tuck

ESBJERG

⑽

STRESSDEPONIE

⑾

LE PARFUM

⑿

AUX GAZELLES

Tamara Mascara Drag Queen, Burlesque dancer

12pts

Vienna has always been a temple of beauty. But what is the definition of beauty? No snot in your nose and combed-back hair? A Californian porn queen or a Gothic cathedral, a Porsche Cayenne or a shark? A steaming schnitzel served on a beautiful porcelain plate with gold trim on a pristine white tablecloth on a sunny holiday? Or a ballerina in a masterful dance opera performed at a historic Opera House? A deserted hunting cabin in the foothills of the Alps (where the fox and hare say good night to each other)? Or an Italian coffee bar on wheels? Are dogs more beautiful than cats? Or vice versa?

N I P A N D T U C K

Tamara Mascara has a weakness for huge feather headdresses and combines classic femininity with punk and fetish elements ... continued on page 85

12pts 1050 Vienna – Strobachgasse

John Harris at Margaretenplatz

N I P A N D

John Harris – for more than 30 years this name has been associated with luxury fitness clubs all over Austria. The first branch at Schillerplatz in Vienna proved that a gym could also be a wellness, health and lifestyle club. The international audience includes well-known politicians, actors and yuppies. In 2005, the fitness chain acquired the former Rogner swimming pool in Margareten and converted it into a wellness temple. A pool with 25-metre lanes, fully qualified fitness instructors, two spaces for lessons, a sauna and a solarium across 3,500 air-conditioned square metres: John Harris leaves nothing to be desired. A medical team is in charge of all health matters. Under the umbrella term “Act Now” the gym strives to improve its customers’ physical and mental well-being in the long term. The seven other branches in Vienna have also turned many couch potatoes into fitness fanatics. J O H N H A R R I S No wonder: Strobachgasse 7–9 everything is 1050 Vienna so beautiful and Pilgramgasse inspiring here – +43 1 5441212 both the environwww.johnharris.at ment and the people. Mon – Fri 6:30am – 11:00pm Sat – Sun and public holidays 9:00am – 9:00pm

1040 Vienna – Belvederegasse

T U C K

⑴

Mon Corps

⑵

special marble altar for at least 75 minutes, while three masseuses simultaneously knead your hands and feet, comb and wash your hair, scrub and peel your body, with relaxing warm showers in between. Body masks of Zotter chocolate, organic honey and argan oil will cover your body in a fragrant, velvety film and moisturise your skin. After a short rest in the relaxation room (think Moroccan lamps and raspberry smoothie) the treatment continues with a 60-minute oil massage. Owner Bouschra Portner opened Mon Corps four years ago after Hot water is dripping from the ceiling, steam is blocking your field developing the concept for the world’s of vision, and your pores slowly begin to open. We are at 91st-richest man, who wanted to open Mon Corps, Vienna’s hammam run by Moroccan Bouschra Portner. Every guest will start their visit with a ten-minute session a hammam in Bahrain. The financial crisis thwarted his plans and Portner eventually opened a small-scale version in the 40° C steam room, of it just off the Belvedere in Vienna. Her clientele followed by a quick shower M O N C O R P S includes high-profile customers like OPEC with lavender soap – and Belvederegasse 33 then they are ready for the managers and foreign princesses. Professionals based 1040 Vienna actual treatment. What comes in the area pop in for an extended lunchSüdtiroler Platz – Hauptbahnhof next is simply heavenly and break and girlfriends organise joint wellness trips +43 664 3404968 can best be summed up to Mon Corps. www.mon-corps.at as “hands, water, and deep Visitors should allow for two hours minimum. Mon – Sat 8:00am – 10:00pm relaxation”. You will lie on a The results last much, much longer!

12pts 1060 Vienna – Gumpendorfer Straße

Saint Charles Apotheke

⑶

The Saint Charles pharmacy specialises in TEM – traditional European medicines: a combination of a wealth of European remedies and modern pharmaceutical practices. Homemade medicines, cosmetics and foods that follow the standards of two thousand years of folk medicine are sold in a stylish ambience. The pharmacy’s original interior, which S A I N T C H A R L E S A P O T H E K E dates back to 1886, Gumpendorfer Straße 30 has been skilfully 1060 Vienna preserved and tastefully Kettenbrückengasse modernised. +43 1 5861363 Oriental and traditional Chinese medicines round off this www.saint.info first-class natural pharmacy’s product line. Mon – Fri 8:00am – 6:30pm Have a look at Saint Charles’s little sister, Cosmothecary, Sat 8:00am – 1:00pm which offers a wide range of natural cosmetics. 1060 Vienna – Gumpendorfer Straße, 1070 Vienna – Lindengasse, 1070 Vienna – Kirchengasse

Minusplus

N I

⑷

The name of the organic haircare store brand says it all: to the owners who developed all products themselves, Less is More means a reduction to the essential. This is also evident in the minusplus salon’s sparse architecture. M I N U S P L U S With their holistic Gumpendorfer Straße 20 Lindengasse 27 approach to beauty 1060 Vienna 1070 Vienna in harmony with health, Karlsplatz Neubaugasse hairdresser Hannes Museumsquartier +43 1 9476440 +43 699 12702797 Trummer and chemist Doris Brandhuber offer a www.minusplus.company perfect alternative to industrial hair products. Kirchengasse 22 Mon 10:00am – 6:00pm Less is More products are already on sale in 1070 Vienna Tue – Wed 10:00am – 7:00pm Neubaugasse numerous pharmacies, drugstores and beauty Thu 10:00am – 6:00pm Volkstheater salons in Austria, Germany and Slovenia. Museumsquartier +43 1 9569549

1010 Vienna – Philharmoniker Straße

Sacher Spa

Fri 10:00am – 8:00pm Sat 10:00am – 3:00pm

P A N D T U C K

⑸

A Sachertorte won’t help you to achieve a perfect bikini body. The Sacher spa, on the other hand, might. On the top floor of the historical five-star hotel you’ll find a fully equipped gym and a spa complete with sauna and steam room extending over 350 square metres. It’s open to both hotel guests and visitors by prior booking. The cosmeticians at Sacher spa swear by the products from Swiss luxury brand La Prairie and offer 15 different special treatments. S A C H E R S P A Our recommendation for sophisticated eco-activists: Philharmoniker Straße 4 the natural products from Ligne St. Barth. The “hot chocolate 1010 Vienna treatments” with cocoa butter and chocolate essences Karlsplatz range among the highlights at the spa. +43 1 51456510 Book the two-hour “Symphony in Chocolate” treatment www.sacher.com for 240 euros and prepare to smell like Sachertorte for at Mon – Sat 10:00am – 8:00pm least two days afterwards.

12pts 1070 Vienna – Siebensterngasse

Wax in the City

N I P A N D T U C K

Learn the smooth truth at Wax in the City where your personal Depiladora (the nickname for the specially trained staff at Wax in the City) tackles all those unwanted little hairs of yours – with warm wax and without paper or cloth strips. The experience is thorough, hygienic and almost pain-free, and hairs are removed from the roots. From eyebrows to cheeks to bum W A X I N T H E C I T Y crack, Wax in the City offers hot Siebensterngasse 48 wax treatments for almost every area 1070 Vienna of the body. Neubaugasse Brazilian waxing has the most crea+43 1 5225808 tive potential – opt for a landing www.wax-in-the-city.com strip, a triangle or a heart shape. Unlike Mon – Thu 10:00am – 7:00pm typical waxing salons you don’t have to book an appointment here. Fri 10:00am – 8:00pm Pop in and you’ll only have to wait a little while for your turn. Sat 10:00am – 5:00pm After 30 minutes all those unwanted hairs are history. 1010 Vienna – Kleeblattgasse

Nails2go

⑺

Modelled after walk-in nail salons in London and New York, Vienna’s Nails2go in the Golden Quarter is the latest hot spot for local beautyholics. Get a mani-pedi whenever you want – without booking an appointment. At Nails2go you can enjoy a coffee, tea or bubbly while getting your nails done. Pop in after a shopping marathon, for the finishing touches for your new outfit or before a Friday night out. The staff will know all about the best new nail polish colours and manicure styles. The hottest trends in 2015: short, square and nude (à la Kim Kardashian) N A I L S 2 G O vs. long, pointed and red (think Rihanna). Golden hands Kleeblattgasse 11 tattoos are another must this year – and also available 1010 Vienna at Nails2go. Stephansplatz “Come in, it’s your turn for beautiful nails” is the +43 1 8908423 motto at the salon. By the way, men are welcome, www.laric2go.com too. They might not opt for shellac and gel but a simple Mon – Sat 10:30am – 8:00pm manicure will do wonders for him! 1150 Vienna – Hütteldorferstraße

Stadthallenbad S T A D T H A L L E N B A D Hütteldorferstraße 2a 1150 Vienna Burggasse-Stadthalle +43 1 8901764 890 www.wienersportstaetten.at Mon 8:00am – 9:30pm Tue 6:30am – 9:30pm Wed 8:00am – 5:30pm Thu 6:30am – 9:30pm Fri 8:00am – 9:30pm Sat 7:00am – 9:30pm Sun and public holidays 7:00am – 6:00pm

⑹

Three indoor swimming pools, a diving board tower and a sauna – the city’s historic Stadthallenbad is finally open again! The renovations of Vienna’s most popular pool seemed to take an eternity for locals and only in June 2014 could you start swimming your laps at the Stadthallenbad again. The main pool measures 50 metres by 25 metres. Non-swimmers can make their first swimming attempts in the neighbouring beginners’ pool. A training pool based in the basement is reserved for professional swimmers. Every Tuesday, the venue hosts training sessions for the diving team. The new sauna area is spread over two floors and leaves nothing to be desired: it offers a Finnish sauna, a steam room, a herbal steam room and a salt sauna. Cool down in the cold pool afterwards.

⑻

12pts 1010 Vienna – Krugerstraße

Esbjerg

⑼

A line of natural cosmetics that is produced with music by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart playing in the background? Only the Viennese can come up with something as crazy as this. The company Esbjerg has been the city’s go-to lifestyle destination for 25 years and offers its own beauty products made of “harmonising water”. The result is a 100% natural, soothing and GMOfree product, devoid of any artificial colours or fragrances. Two fruits play an important part in the brand history: the olive for “him” and the pomegranate for “her”. Esbjerg is located right behind the opera and is particularly known for its expertise in wet shaving and men’s cosmetics, hosting useful workshops on grooming and selling the best aftershaves, beard oils and shaving brushes in town. Apart from their own label, Esbjerg also offers must-haves from brands around the world including Penhaligon’s, Geo F. Tramper and Taylor of Old Bond Street from the UK as well as US cult label Jack Black and the German brand Mühle. 1070 Vienna – Siebensterngasse

Stressdeponie

N I

E S B J E R G

Krugerstraße 7 1010 Vienna Karlsplatz +43 1 5131936 www.esbjerg.com

Mon – Fri 10:00am – 6:30pm Sat 10:00am – 6:00pm

N D

⑽ Are you suffering from neck pain, mood swings and tension? No worries, Katharina Köstner will fix it. At Stressdeponie (stress disposal site) the trained masseuse who studied under monks in Thailand will help you relieve stress with a combination of several massage techniques. She’ll intuitively determine what the customer needs and make use of a personalised set of massage styles. The customer can choose from four individually designed treatment rooms: the zen style meditation room with Japanese finishing touches, the girly boudoir, the minimalist room, and the Arabian Nights chamber. The offer ranges from traditional massages like reflexology and lymphatic drainage to less well-known techniques such as the Hawaiian Kahi Loha massage. S T R E S S D E P O N I E The prices do not depend Siebensterngasse 4 on the respective massage 1070 Vienna technique but customers are Volkstheater charged by session. +43 1 9904530 The 25-minute massage costs www.stressdeponie.at € 38, and the longest treatment Mon – Tue 10:30am – 6:00pm lasts for 90 minutes and costs Wed 12:00am – 6:00pm € 98. If you’re really busy you can Thu 12:00am – 8:00pm come in for a quickie: ten-minute Fri 12:00am – 6:00pm sessions start at € 18.

T U C K

12pts 1010 Vienna – Petersplatz

Le Parfum

N I P A N D

Patrick Süskind would love this place. The protagonist of his best-selling novel would probably love it too. Introducing Le Parfum, a special perfumery next to St. Peter’s Church managed by the perfumery chain Nägele & Strubell just around the corner. In an urban Rococo setting, it offers fragrances beyond the mass-produced labels and stimulates its guests’ olfactory senses with scented candles, body oils and fragrances. Creations of the great perfumers become objects of desire at Le Parfum, regarding perfumes as art rather than a means to an end. Trained “fragrance ambassadors” provide interesting insights and background to all creations and help find the customer the perfect fragrance. After all, nothing complements your own style like the right perfume. You can choose between more than 50 different varieties including wellknown classics from Caron, Amouage and Lalique to modern choices from Tom Ford, Kilian Hennessy and Micallef. 1060 Vienna – Rahlgasse

T U C K

⑾

Aux Gazelles If you’re heading in the direction of the Mariahilferstraße, you’re most probably after the ultimate shopping experience. Only a few insiders know that it can also be your go-to spa destination. Take the stairs leading down to Rahlgasse (at the very beginning of the Mariahilferstraße) and visit Aux Gazelles, Vienna’s first hammam. Opened in 1997, the former brick factory is home to a classic oriental bath with three different temperature zones across 500 square metres where women and men entrust themselves to the “Hammamcis”. Guests at Aux Gazelles first enjoy a cleansing bath, followed by scrubs and peelings with alternating hot and cold showers in between in dedicated women’s and men’s areas A U X G A Z E L L E S (except for mixed spa Rahlgasse 5 days on Tuesdays). The 1060 Vienna water vapour and the quiet Museumsquartier atmosphere make the +43 1 5856645 hammam particularly www.auxgazelles.at pleasant. Mon – Fri 2:00pm – 10:00pm The “Hammamcis” Sat 11:00am – 10:00pm hardly speak as nothing

L E

P A R F U M

Petersplatz 3 1010 Vienna Stephansplatz +43 1 5353939 www.leparfum.at Mon – Fri 10:00am – 7:00pm Sat 10:00am – 6:00pm

⑿ should keep you from relaxing during the two-hour treatment. After the procedure your skin will be as soft as a baby’s bottom and you can enjoy a cup of mint tea at the tea salon. The in-house café serves Moroccan-French cuisine including toasted pita bread, Moroccan lentils and lamb kofta. You can also smoke shisha while listening to relaxing Moroccan sounds in the background. The tradition of the hammam goes back to the Greco-Roman bathing culture which was adopted by the Arabs only later in history. Formerly used as a public bathroom, the hammam has now become a place for peace and for the cleansing both body and soul.

12pts TA M A R A M A S C A R A – D R AG Q U E E N , B U R L E S Q U E DA N C E R

Make-up and feathers for Vienna’s Drag Race

TA M A R A M A S C A R A Tamara Mascara is a make-up artist, drag queen, DJ, designer and Burlesque dancer. She has a weakness for huge feather headdresses and combines classic femininity with punk and fetish elements. Last year she became a household name for doing Conchita Wurst’s make-up at the Eurovision Song Contest.

amara Mascara is a make-up artist, drag queen, DJ, designer and burlesque dancer – in short: a true all-rounder. Her many talents, today all part of an overall vision, were first spotted by Viennese drag mother Holger Thor (aka Miss Candy), owner of the Camera club and organiser of the Heaven club nights – the environment that Tamara grew up in. At an early age, the young man behind Tamara Mascara attended ballet lessons at the Vienna State Opera. Today’s interests include the US talent show RuPaul’s Drage Race (its creator, RuPaul even likes Tamara’s Facebook page), Bettie Paige’s hair style and – of course – make-up. The latter offers an unlimited source of possibilities for Tamara: it can underline your personality, it serves as a protective shield but can also result in a complete transformation. The Modeschule Hetzendorf graduate also has a passion for designing and sewing clothes. The style that describes Haus Mascara best is classically feminine with a touch of punk and fetish. These are the kinds of dresses that you can also spot her in on the party circuit. Last year Tamara Mascara was in charge of makeup for none other than Conchita Wurst in Copenhagen. But for her it wasn’t the final show that was most nervewracking but the semi-finals. “If Conchita hadn’t made it to the finals, all the dismissive voices that you could

Süssi - Salon de Thé Operngasse 30, 1040 Vienna +43 1 9431324 U1, U2, U4 Karlsplatz A delightful little Rococo-style eatery in which Tamara feels like an empress, featuring delicious French desserts!

MakeUp Pro Lerchenfelderstraße 11, 1070 Vienna +43 1 5227783 U2, U3 Volkstheater The shop offers best-value products and service. Your go-to shop for all things make-up.

P O R T

Atelier Renato & Co Bischoffgasse 24 (Hofpavillon), 1120 Vienna + 43 1 5452119 U4 Schönbrunn A specialist in feather headdresses who will translate the most abstruse ideas into wonderful designs. The perfect choice for Life Ball, Rosenball and burlesque show outfits.

R A I T

hear before would have won their case.” This would have been a big slap in the face, a “Watsch’n” as the Viennese would say. Fortunately this “Watsch’n” soon dissolved into thin air. Tamara has always had strong interest in life’s eccentricities which probably explains her soft spot for Japanese culture. As a child the japanophile artist was a diehard fan of Far Eastern anime TV shows like Mila Superstar. A few years later she would be able to call herself proud owner of more than 1000 manga comic books. After visiting relatives in Nagan she was fully hooked and her enthusiasm for Japan and especially Tokyo simply didn’t stop. While she points out that she doesn’t know what it’d be like “to squeeze yourself into the crowded Tokyo subway every day for the rest of your life” another trip to Japan is already planned for next year. Until then Tamara will be pretty busy in Vienna. One highlight of her upcoming gigs: a DJ set at Cabaret Fledermaus on Tuesday, May 19 (Spiegelgasse 2, 1010 Vienna, www.fledermaus.at).

12pts

⑴

KAUFHAUS SCHIEPEK

Hot & New!

⑵

SUPERSENSE

⑶

STILRAD / EVA BLUT

⑷

MAK DESIGN SHOP

⑸ SHU!

⑹ WUBET

⑺ PHIL

Fetzen und Tand 86

Shop till you drop

⑻

LICHTERLOH

⑼

BRILLENMANUFAKTUR

⑽

NACHBARIN

⑾ PARK

⑿

LENA HOSCHEK

12pts

Adia Trischler Fashion editor, stylist

A “Fetzen”, a rag, is a tattered piece of old cloth. You can even wipe the floor with it. In Vienna, we call this kind of rag “Ausreibfetzen”. The same word can also be used as a very eloquent description of “elegant dress”, and even the most sophisticated ladies would call an elegant dress a “Fetzen”, if they have a penchant for folksy language. This would also imply that the most exclusive boutique is nothing more but a store selling rags. When the above-mentioned ladies who shop at these expensive rag stores reach a certain age, a more mature age, they might be called “old rags” themselves. And apart from the rag stores there are other businesses that offer all kinds of pretty things that you want so badly it hurts but might not actually need. Adia studied experimental theatre in New York and worked as a personal shopper and stylist. In 2006, she moved to Vienna for love ... continued on page 93

S H O P T I L L Y O U D R O P

12pts 1010 Vienna – Teinfaltstraße, 1040 Vienna – Maragretenstraße

Kaufhaus Schiepek S H O P T I

⑴

If you have a weakness for flashy knick-knacks, you will hardly be able to resist the charm of Kaufhaus Schiepek. Discover costume jewellery, small bags and boxes, off-the-wall gifts and what is probably Vienna’s largest selection in K A U F H A U S S C H I E P E K an endless selection of Teinfaltstraße 3 and 4 materials. 1010 Vienna Diagonally across the Herrengasse Schottentor street from this El Dorado for jewellery makers, Schiepek + 43 1 5331575 also offers brightly coloured Mon – Fri 10:30am – 6:30pm melamine tableware and Sat 11:00am – 6:00pm other non-breakable items. Maragretenstraße 39 Two (and a half) outlets 1040 Vienna in the first and fourth district. Taubstummengasse Kettenbrückengasse

+43 1 5872128 Mon – Fri 11:00am – 6:30pm Sat 11:00am – 6:00pm www.kaufhaus-schiepek.at

L L Y

1020 Vienna – Praterstraße

Hot & New!

Supersense

O U D R O P

In 1898, estate owner Maximilian Haas built the Vienna Dogenhof modelled after Venetian architecture. In 2014, Florian Kaps opened the Supersense store at this very location. The entrepreneur, commonly known as the “saviour of Polaroid” (he saved the last Polaroid factory in the Dutch town Enscheide), transformed the heritageprotected location into a mix of café and concept store. A “deli for all senses,” is what he calls it, inviting his guests to “enjoy, browse, and shop”.

⑵

In the entrance area Florian Kaps serves third-wave coffee and deli products from small Austrian producers. The back of the venue is dedicated to crafts of all kinds. A huge Polaroid camera takes 20 × 24 portraits, historical hand presses create posters and business cards, and a wooden elevator car serves as a studio for recording vinyl singles. As you might have noticed already, Supersense is all about analogue art. Almost everything that you lay your eyes on in the store can be purchased, be it the cameras, films, notebooks or copper lamps scattered on the tables. Next to the counter you can find French glasses, cheese bells and newspaper holders. Antique dealer Robin Molenaar was in charge of the location’s distinct 1950s interior that was even featured S U P E R S E N S E in various international design Praterstraße 70 magazines. He installed two Hermann 1020 Vienna Czech chandeliers from the former Praterstern Länderbankzentrale in the cafe area and +43 1 19690832 put antique tambour cupboards into the.supersense.com the corners. Bar An old letter board provides Mon – Wed 10:00am – 7:00pm Thu – Fri 10:00am – 10:00pm information on special offers. One of the Sat 10:00am – 5:00pm many highlights: the Artomat to Shop the right of the entrance. The old cigaMon – Fri 11:00am – 7:00pm rette vending machine now spits Sat 11:00am – 5:00pm out small artworks for a fiver.

12pts 1010 Vienna – Jordangasse

Stilrad / Eva Blut

⑶

Design bike meets design bag – this is the motto of this brand new store. Bikes for the metropolis’s bobo that could easily be displayed as design objects at home, compiled by bike specialist Paul Rasper, and functional, chic urban bags, belts and other accessories by designer Eva Blut. The unique shop concept is located in a former secondhand bookshop and brings fresh air into the city. Go there before the end of May as this S T I L R A D / E V A B L U T place is going to Jordangasse 3 / Schultergasse be closing down 1010 Vienna then. New projects Stephansplatz by Eva Blut will be +43 1 8906560-15 announced soon. stilrad.com/at, www.evablut.com

MAK Design Shop

H O P

Tue – Fri 11:00am – 7:00pm Sat 10:00am – 6:00pm

1010 Vienna – Stubenring

⑷

T I L

All these small, pretty, nifty objects – they may not be vital, but without them, life wouldn’t be half as much fun. The MAK Design Shop has them all. Shop manager Ewa Esterhazy focuses on clever knick-knacks and small objects by Austrian designers like Polka, Lucy.D and Walking Chair, but more and more these days she also has on offer young talent from Central and Eastern M A K D E S I G N S H O P Europe such as Maxim Stubenring 5 Velcovsky or Bartosz 1010 Vienna Mucha. Stubenring The MAK Design +43 1 71136-228 Shop is also the MAK www.makdesignshop.at bookstore, so you Tue (MAK NITE©) 10:00am – 10:00pm can browse to your Wed – Sun 10:00am – 6:00pm heart’s content.

L Y O U D

1070 Vienna – Neubaugasse

Shu!

⑸ The shoe store “shu!” earns its exclamation point for, among other things, the appealing design of its interior, by Vienna architect Markus Tomaselli. Conceived as a single room, this store stands out primarily for the clever shoe display – on shelves right in the shop window. You can therefore check out the entire S H U ! current collection while still Neubaugasse 34 on the street. 1070 Vienna The interior remains open, Neubaugasse framed all around by the +43 1 5231449 decorative shoes. Simple and www.shu.at clever.

R O P

Tue – Fri 12:00pm – 7:00pm Sat 12:00pm – 5:00pm

12pts 1020 Vienna – Praterstraße

Wubet S H O P T I

⑹

The Arnold Haas collection includes high-end designer pieces of hand-woven cotton and alpaca scarfs from Ethiopia, the Andes or Netela as well as beautiful bags. The fine scarves, shawls and bags are made W U B E T exclusively in ethical Praterstraße 11 workshops. The small 1020 Vienna shop, which was designed Schwedenplatz by architect Claus +43 664 7692102 Radler, leaves much room www.wubet.com for the exquisite Tue – Fri 12:00pm – 7:00pm accessories and textiles. Sat 11:00am – 6:00pm

1060 Vienna – Gumpendorfer Straße

Phil

⑺ Phil’s concept is an easy mixture of a café-bar, bookstore and vintage design shop. As a hangout for students from the nearby Academy of Fine Arts, Phil and its small assortment of books, CDs and films is always good for surprising discoveries from the world of culture and sub-culture. Readings, live acts and DJ line-ups P H I L as well as film screenGumpendorfer Straße 10–12 ings in cooperation 1060 Vienna with the GartenMuseumsquartier baukino make Phil a +43 1 5810489 cultural hotspot for www.phil.info the young scene in Mon 5:00pm – 1:00am Gumpendorfer Straße.

L Y O U

Tue – Sun 9:00am – 1:00am

D R O P

1060 Vienna – Gumpendorfer Straße

Lichterloh The vintage-design specialist at the far end of Gumpendorfer Straße offers international furniture design alongside Austrian design icons like Loos, Frank, Auböck and Heardtl, as well as some unusual finds, all in a lavish, stylish display. In addition to originals from the 1920s to 80s, Lichterloh have a L I C H T E R L O H convincing series of new products from Gumpendorfer Straße 15–17 contemporary Austrian designers. 1060 Vienna The owners also run ramsch & Museumsquartier rosen (Neubaugasse 15, U3 NeubauKettenbrückengasse gasse), a second-hand store where +43 1 5860520 shoppers on a more limited budget can www.lichterloh.com also find beautiful and interesting Mon – Fri 11:00am – 6:30pm things. Sat 11:00am – 4:00pm

⑻

12pts 1070 Vienna – Neubaugasse

Brillenmanufaktur

⑼

Choosing the perfect pair of glasses or sunglasses is easy here. Brillenmanufaktur carries very few “classic” brands from the typical fashion labels; instead, it sells innovative models from the workshops of young, dedicated designers. Shop owner Nikolaus Hauser is particularly keen on the quality of the materials and production methods. As a result, the designs are sophisticated, ingenious and 100% stylish. With its classy yet simple interior design, the architecture office Rataplan allows for a focus on the product: first-class eyeglasses, limited series and handmade individual models.

S H O P T

B R I L L E N M A N U F A K T U R

Neubaugasse 18 1070 Vienna Neubaugasse

+43 1 5238200 www.brillenmanufaktur.at

Mon – Fri 10:00am – 6:30pm Sat 10:00am – 5:00pm

1060 Vienna – Gumpendorfer Straße

Nachbarin Europäisches Modedesign

⑽

Y O U

A lively urban scene with up-to-the-minute design and fashion boutiques and cafés has developed on Gumpendorfer Straße between Naschmarkt and Mariahilferstraße. In house no. 17, behind an inconspicuous traditional entrance, you can find Nachbarin, one of Vienna’s best shops for contemporary fashion. Manager Daniela Bittner has local design stars like jewelry designer Florian Ladstätter as well as young European designers including Chalayan, Tim van Steenbergen and N A C H B A R I N Veronique Leroy on Gumpendorfer Straße 17 display. 1060 Vienna The store’s Museumsquartier sculptural architecKettenbrückengasse ture by the well+43 1 5872169 known Vienna www.nachbarin.co.at architecture office Mon 12:00am – 6:30pm propeller z is Tue – Fri 11:00am – 6:30pm well worth seeing.

D R O P

Sat 11:00am – 4:00pm

12pts 1070 Vienna – Mondscheingasse

Park

This concept store primarily sells avant-garde collections of the very highest level. The collections of Austrian designers such as GON, pelican avenue, Petar Petrov and Edwina Hörl are mixed here with labels of the international avant-garde. As well as trailblazing fashion for men and women, PARK also sells accessories, selected art books and magazines. With the opening of PARK, its owners Markus Straßer, a graduate from the Fashion Academy in Antwerp, and Helmut Ruthner gave the fashion district on and around Neubaugasse its ultimate highlight.

S H O P T I L L Y O U D R O P

⑾

P A R K Mondscheingasse 20 1070 Vienna Neubaugasse +43 1 5264414 www.park.co.at Mon – Fri 10:00am – 7:00pm Sat 10:00am – 6:00pm

1070 Vienna – Gutenberggasse

Lena Hoschek

⑿ Graz designer Lena Hoschek gets her inspiration from traditional costumes from all over the world as well as from a nostalgic look at 1950s fashion. The designer started her career at Vivienne Westwood, and soon opened a mono label shop in Graz. In 2008, she opened her second store, this one in Vienna’s 7th district. L E N A H O S C H E K The shop’s dollGutenberggasse 17 house interior breathes 1070 Vienna rock and rockabilly Volkstheater music style, mixed with +43 5 0309200 Dirndl dresses and www.lenahoschek.com Norwegian patterns. Mon – Fri 11:00am – 7:00pm Her fashion Sat 11:00am – 5:00pm radiates the art of traditional, countrystyle tailoring on the one hand, while the extremely fine fabrics, elaborate workmanship and a good dose of esprit add a unique urban zest to her designs.

12pts A D I A T R I S C H L E R – FA S H I O N E D I TO R , S T Y L I S T

From New York to Vienna ADIA TRISCHLER

Andrea Pievetz Porzellangasse 10, 1090 Vienna U4 Roßauer Lände At Andrea Pievetz I find special avant-garde pieces.

If dogs run free Gumpendorfer Straße 10 – 12, 1060 Vienna U2 Museumsquartier

Adia Trischler studied experimental theatre in New York and worked as a personal shopper and stylist. In 2006, she moved to Vienna for love. Her clients include Vogue Italia, Austria’s Next Topmodel and Peek & Cloppenburg. In 2013, she was awarded the prize of “Stylist of the Year”. She has produced a range of fashion films and music videos with photographer Andreas Waldschütz. Her latest project is a short for art magazine Nowness.

A bar called If dogs run free which belongs to an American friend.

P O R T R

Motto am Fluss Schwedenplatz 2, 1010 Vienna U1, U4 Schwedenplatz

Motto am Fluss for pancakes and steak sandwich.

hen Adia Trischler moved to Vienna almost 10 years ago, she could already look back on a successful career in New York: after graduating in acting from the Tisch School of Arts, she worked as a personal shopper and stylist for celebrities like Lauryn Hill from The Fugees. Shortly after arriving in Vienna (in New York, Adia fell in love with Austrian radio host, producer and DJ Stefan Trischler) nobody wanted to book her. In the creative circles her talent was regarded as a big threat. “Many people thought that I would take their jobs away because I was from New York,” says Adia. “But I was brought up in the land of opportunity, so this didn’t really discourage me too much.” Adia started to work as a model and networked with the photographers she met on set – today she can officially call herself “Stylist of the Year”, she teaches a class at Modeschule Hetzendorf and works as a sought-after fashion film director. Her approach to fashion is an anthropological one. “I don’t want to dictate what people should wear. I’m more interested in thinking about what people would wear in certain situations.” Her own style is clearly influenced by her passion for vintage clothes. “I’m a very nostalgic person,”

I says the 34-year-old, showing us her costume corner in her apartment next to the Donaukanal with a charming 1950s style interior. Adia started collecting clothes as a child. She snaps up little gems at flea markets and vintage shops and combines them with young fashion labels. One of those emerging designers is Rani Bageria whose new collection was recently presented at the Austrian Fashion Association. Or Jana Wieland and Hvala Ilija, two of her students at Modeschule Hetzendorf. In general, Adia lives by the motto “less is more”. “If I buy something, then it’s something very specific,” says the stylist, “crazy shopping excesses are history.” Accessories are an integral part of her wardrobe. Especially when it comes to jewellery, she likes to wear one powerful piece. As an example she refers to the designs of friend and jewellery designer Lauren Cooke (label Henwood) and the architectural rings by artist Fritz Maierhofer (currently on display at the MAK). The image of a conservative Vienna that many of her friends abroad have etched into their minds cannot be approved by Adia. “Vienna keeps on developing in so many creative ways,” she says, “and I’m happy to be a part of it.”

12pts

⑴

KUNSTHISTORISCHES MUSEUM

⑵

BROTFABRIK

⑶

ESCHENBACHGASSE

⑷

MQ MUSEUMSQUARTIER

⑸

INOPERABLE GALLERY

⑹

SCHLEIFMÜHLGASSE

⑺

KUNSTHALLE VIENNA KARLSPLATZ

⑻

DAS WEISSE HAUS

⑼

U-BAHN ART

⑽

Ausg’stöht 94

On Display

21ER HAUS

⑾ TBA21

⑿

ALBERTINA

12pts

Deborah Sengl Artist

Of course you can find smaller and bigger galleries, smaller and bigger museums in Vienna. During “blessed days”, the days when the institutions open their doors, they offer a splendid environment in which to have a chat and meet new people. However, the best part of the so-called art scene is the fact that everybody is granted access – with or without an invitation. Everyman and Everywoman can visit the exhibition openings and enjoy one or two glasses of wine and a snack. Particularly popular are “Liptauerbrötchen” – sandwiches with a spicy cheese spread.

O N D I S P L A Y

The Viennese artist Deborah Sengl knows how to stir up the art world, be it with her hybrid lion-zebra sculpture or with taxidermied rats ... continued on page 101

12pts 1010 Vienna – Maria-Theresien-Platz

Kunsthistorisches Museum

O N D I S P L A Y

K U N S T H I S T O R I S C H E S Maria-Theresien-Platz 1010 Vienna Museumsquartier +43 1 52524-0 www.khm.at Tue – Sun 10:00am – 6:00pm Thu 10:00am – 9:00pm

⑴

With the conception of Vienna’s Ringstraße in the mid-19th century, the Emperor also wanted to find a suitable shelter for the splendid art collection of the imperial family. The result: the Kunsthistorisches Museum (Museum of Art History or “KHM”, as it is called by the locals,) which opened in 1891. The museum’s exhibits include masterpieces by Raphael, Rembrandt and Tintoretto, antique objects and one of the world’s most significant collections of Egyptian artefacts. The twin building on the other side of the Maria-Theresien-Platz, the Naturhistorisches Museum, is one of the most important natural history museums in the world. 2013 saw the opening of a “museum within the museum” – the Kunstkammer, a smaller museum inside the Kunsthistorisches M U S E U M Museum. Discover treasures from the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and Baroque periods. You can also marvel at the the infamous Cellini Salt Cellar, a partly enamelled gold table sculpture by Italian sculptor Benvenuto Cellini from the late Renaissance. Stolen during a burglary in 2003, the luxurious predecessor of today’s salt shaker has been back where it belongs since 2006.

1010 Vienna – Absberggasse

Brotfabrik Opening the Brotkunsthalle in 2009, the doyen of Vienna’s gallery scene, Ernst Hilger, was the first to move into the Ankerbrotfabrik in the tenth district. Every since, the old factory site (it’s more than 120 years old) and formerly the largest bakery in Austria has been slowly developing into a real art hub. Trendsetter Hilger – who also runs another gallery in the Ankerbrotfabrik, the Hilger NEXT gallery, as well as the Ernst Hilger gallery in the first district – has been joined by Regina Maria Anzenberger, gallery owner, artist and photographer who presents Austrian and international photographers, and the Ostlicht gallery for photographic art. The latter is managed by the world’s leading Leica dealer Peter Coeln who also runs the photography museum Westlicht in the seventh district, which hosts the annual World Press Photo exhibition, attracting countless camera and photography fans. The most populous district of B R O T F A B R I K Vienna has even Absberggasse 27 more art on offer: the 1100 Vienna Brotfabrik is home Reumannplatz to more galleries +43 1 9823939 (Photon and www.loftcity.at Domenig), art spaces individual opening hours (Sellemond), some for each institution of which host artist in

⑵ residence programmes (Atelier 10, Loft 8, Vor Anker), the Film Academy and the Superar music and dance project. Quite generally, the tenth district has become an increasingly popular meeting point for creatives, opening up new and spacious artist lofts (complete with brick stones and a distinct industrial flair). More local highlights are organic food and design markets hosted in the Expedithalle, Dagmar Moser, Christof Stein and Markus Pernhaupt’s vintage furniture store Lichterloh which enjoys cult status in the city and Magdas Kantine which follows socially integrative goals: unemployed persons, refugees and people with disabilities serve national and international dishes at moderate prices in collaboration with professional cooks. Try the Viennese sausages!

12pts 1010 Vienna – Eschenbachgasse

Eschenbachgasse

⑶

“Will you be at the Eschenbach tonight?” What a question! The opening nights around here are an absolute must for Vienna’s cultural crowd. Located around the corner from the Academy of Fine Arts, the galleries along Eschenbachgasse quickly became an institution, exhibiting a wide spectrum ranging E S C H E N B A C H G A S S E from young artists such Eschenbachgasse as Esther Stocker to 1010 Vienna successful ones like Franz Museumsquartier West. Well worth a visit. 1070 Vienna – Musemsplatz

MQ Museumsquartier

⑷

With their planning of the MuseumsQuartier, Ortner & Ortner architects successfully created a link on all levels between the old and the new, between art and local recreation and between artists and visitors. The two focal points are the two big museums, the Leopold Museum and the MUMOK (the Museum M Q M U S E U M S Q U A R T I E R of Modern Art). In addiMusemsplatz 1 tion, various renowned 1070 Vienna architects planned numerMuseumsquartier ous extra facilities and Volkstheater integrated them into the +43 1 5235881 listed structure of the former imperial stables; they range www.mqw.at from the children’s museum to the art bookshop. individual opening hours A must for those with an interest in culture and an for each institution affinity for architecture. 1060 Vienna – Stiegengasse

Inoperable Gallery

O N D I S P L A Y

⑸

Nicholas Platzer and Nathalie Halgand’s gallery in a 170 m2 period apartment at Naschmarkt is known far beyond the country’s border. Why? It’s wholly dedicated to urban art. In 2006 Platzer opened a space for street and urban art. Two years later he was joined by art historian Halgand. Together they manage Vienna’s first gallery specialising in street art and graffiti, which today numbers among the top destinations for urban art in Europe. For two years in a row, the INOPERAbLE gallery won the award for Best European Urban Art Gallery and they’ve represented artists including Roa, Etam I N O P E R A B L E G A L L E R Y Cru, Tara McPherson and Miss Van. Stiegengasse 2/3 (First Floor) For the last few months, the 1060 Vienna INOPERAbLE gallery has been located Kettenbrückengasse in the sixth district, and with its move from Burggasse to the +43 650 2444779 Naschmarkt the portfolio has grown thanks to emerging artists www.inoperable.at from the fields of painting, installation and photography. The Tue – Fri 12:00pm – 6:00pm aim is to “stimulate and deepen the discourse on urban art and Sat 12:00pm – 4:00pm demonstrate that the boundaries between urban and fine arts and by appointment can easily be blurred,” says Halgand.

12pts 1040 Vienna – Schleifmühlgasse

Schleifmühlgasse

⑹

Vienna’s bourgeois bohemian location par excellence: On Saturday morning the art scene gathers for breakfast in one of the chic pubs in Schleifmühlgasse to eventually continue to the four galleries to see what’s on. On opening nights the crowd is as mixed as can be: art students in S C H L E I F M Ü H L G A S S E adidas trainers rub Schleifmühlgasse shoulders with 1040 Vienna collectors in Prada Kettenbrückengasse outfits.

O N D I S P L A Y

1010 Vienna – Karlsplatz, Treitlstraße

Kunsthalle Vienna Karlsplatz

⑺

The first temporary art exhibition hall opened in Vienna in 1992 on Karlsplatz. This yellow and blue art container by architect Adolf Krischanitz was meant to furnish space for the art until work on the Kunsthalle in K U N S T H A L L E V I E N N A the MuseumsQuartier was completed. K A R L S P L A T Z After 10 years, however, the temporary Karlsplatz, Treitlstraße 2 exhibition space wasn’t closed down, 1040 Vienna but instead became home to a new venture Karlsplatz – the “Project Space”. + 43 1 52189-33 This branch of the Kunsthalle, a glass www.kunsthallewien.at pavilion with 250 m2 of exhibition space, daily 10:00am – 7:00pm a room for events and restaurant HEUER with terrace, Thu 10:00am – 9:00pm was also built according to plans by Krischanitz. 1050 Vienna – Hegelgasse

Das weisse Haus

⑻

The art association, exhibition space and non-profit-organisation das weisse haus is always on the go. After its establishment in 2007, it moved from Westbahnstraße to Wollzeile, followed by venues on Geigergasse, Argentinierstraße and a former tax office just off Wiedner Hauptstraße before eventually arriving at its current location at Hegelgasse in the 1st district. The new venue is also home to the artist-in-residence programme which D A S W E I S S E H A U S was founded in 2013. The concept Hegelgasse 14 is spearheaded by Alexandra Grausam, 1010 Vienna who founded the art association Karlsplatz together with Elsy Lahner. Following Stadtpark her appointment as curator for +43 1 2363775 the Albertina in 2011 Lahner left das weisse haus and Grausam and her team www.dasweissehaus.at continued to promote the emerging art scene on their own. Tue – Fri 1:00pm – 7:00pm They focus on young artists from different areas including photography, Sat 12:00pm – 5:00pm visual, video and media art. Their work is presented in the form of solo and by appointment and group exhibitions, artist talks, lectures and guided tours.

12pts Vienna – U1, U2, U3

U-Bahn art

⑼

The Wiener Linien turned the city’s public transport system into a public art space as early as 1991 when the U3 station Volkstheater opened with Anton Lehmden’s threesided mural Das Werden der Natur (The Becoming of Nature). Today, further underground stations are adorned by artworks including U3 station Landstraße (Kurt Hofstetter) U3 / U6 station Westbahnhof (Adolf Frohner) and U1 station Hauptbahnhof (Franz Graf). The Karlsplatz station, formerly a grim meeting place for junkies and the homeless, has in recent years developed into a chic underpass that is rich in culture: Ernst Caramelle (the thoroughfare between Karlsplatz and Vienna State Opera), Peter Kogler (the passage leading to U1 / U2 Karlsplatz) and Ken Lum (the thoroughfare between Karlsplatz and Secession) are but a few artists who created murals for the station in the city centre. On the U2 line, Vienna’s most recently extended underground line which connects the newly built district Aspern Seestadt with the rest

of the city, you will soon be able to marvel at fresh artworks from international artists: Speto from Brazil and Honet from France are currently working on the pillars at U-Bahntrasse (just off the campus of the Vienna University of Economics and Business – an architectural highlight in itself – and the sculpture park at Viertel 2), and Stephan Huber from Germany installed his U - B A H N A R T oversized maps and lifelines on the outskirts of the city (U2, www.wienerlinien.at Aspern-Nord).

1030 Vienna – Schweizergarten, Arsenalstraße

21er Haus

⑽

The 21er Haus, located in the Swiss garden, is Vienna’s latest addition to its portfolio of museums dedicated to contemporary art. Originally designed by Karl Schwanzer as the Austrian pavilion for the 1958 World Fair and home to the museum of the 20th century (nicknamed “20er Haus”) from 1962 to 2001, it was re-opened as the 21er Haus in 2011. Adapted by Austrian architect Adolf Krischanitz (a former student of Schwanzer) the museum, which is located just off the new central station and the Arsenal, a former military building complex made of brick, focuses on Austrian art from 1954 to today in an international context. The 21er Haus, an off-site addition to the Austrian gallery Belvedere, presents changing exhibitions, the public collection owned by the private foundation of sculptor Fritz 2 1 E R H A U S Wotruba and the federal Artothek. Schweizergarten, Arsenalstraße 1 Structurally, the 21er Haus is characterised 1030 Vienna by clean lines and lots of light. Exhibition Südtiroler Platz – Hauptbahnhof rooms are complemented by a cinema, a book+43 1 79557-770 store and avant-garde restaurant DOTS www.21erhaus.at twentyone run by celebrity restaurateur Martin Wed – Thu 11:00am – 9:00pm Ho, who offers Austro-Asian fusion cuisine.

O N D I S P L A Y

Fri – Sun and public holidays 11:00am – 6:00pm

12pts 1020 Vienna – Scherzergasse

TBA21 Francesca Habsburg. In Vienna her name is synonymous with art. She’s a respected art collector and patron, one of the most colourful personalities on the local art scene, and married to Karl Habsburg (offspring of the imperial family) from whom she is separated. Francesca Habsburg regularly stages urban sound installations and parties that become the talk of the town. Her passion for art is also reflected in her TBA21 foundation (short for ThyssenBornemisza Augarten Contemporary), founded more than ten years ago. Since 2012 the foundation has been located in the Augarten – surrounded by Vienna’s Flakturm, the Augarten porcelain manufactory and the Vienna Boys’ Choir. The space used to be the atelier of sculptor Gustinus Ambrosi. Today, Habsburg’s museum and the Ephemeropterae pavilion are home to contemporary artworks by Carsten Höller, Ragnar Kjartansson and Simon Starling that are presented in the form of exhibitions, performances and artist dinners. Art also plays a role in the museum restaurant: the bar in the Au restaurant was designed by Hans Schabus.

O N D I S P L A Y

⑾

1010 Vienna – Albertinaplatz

Albertina Want to see Albrecht Dürer’s Young Hare? It’s part of the graphic collection at the Albertina, one of the world’s most important collections of its kind. However, it would be a fatal mistake to reduce the art museum at Palais Erzherzog in the first district to its 950,000 drawings, watercolours and prints ranging from the late Gothic period to the present. The Albertina is also home to a stunning architectural and photographic collection as well as the Batliner Collection, one of the most important European private collections of classical modernism which includes works by Claude Monet, Joan Miró, Marc Chagall, Alberto Giacometti, Gerhard Richter and Anselm Kiefer – just to name a few. The Albertina hasn’t always been the much-visited museum that it is today – both for locals and tourists. These days, the museum attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors every year and enjoys an excellent reputation, owing A L B E R T I N A most of it to its Albertinaplatz 1 current museum 1010 Vienna director, Klaus Karlsplatz Albrecht Schröder, who regularly opens +43 1 534830 the doors of his www.albertina.at museum for a popular daily 10:00am – 6:00pm clubbing series Wed 10:00am – 9:00pm named “Albert + Tina”.

100

T B A 2 1 Scherzergasse 1A (in the Augarten park) 1020 Vienna Taborstraße +43 1 513985624 www.tba21.org Wed – Thu 12:00pm – 5:00pm Fri – Sun 12:00pm – 7:00pm

⑿

Prior to his time at the Albertina (2015 marks his 15th anniversary) the art historian managed the equally recommendable BACA Kunstforum at the Freyung and coordinated the construction of today’s Leopold Museum (Museumsplatz 1). Joining in 2000, Klaus Albrecht Schröder not only renamed the museum (the “Graphic Art Collection Albertina” which was founded on July 4, 1776 by Albert Casimir, Duke of Teschen simply became the “Albertina”), he also created additional exhibition spaces, renovated the imperial state rooms, added the Soravia wing designed by architect Hans Hollein for a modern touch and invited the DO&CO restaurant to move into the house of Dürer’s hare. Reservations strongly recommended!

12pts DEBORAH SENGL – ARTIST

Disguise and deception Winterpalais Himmelpfortgasse 8 1010 Vienna +43 1 79557134 U1, U3 Stephansplatz

MAK Stubenring 5 1010 Vienna +43 1 71136-0 U3 Stubenring

Deborah Sengl has favourite exhibitions rather than favourite museums and galleries.

Friedhof der Namenlosen Alberner Hafen, 1110 Vienna +43 660 6003023 no direct connection by public transport Looking for the morbid side of the city? Sengl recommends that you look for the Friedhof der Namenlosen (Cemetery of the Nameless).

Hold Josefstädter Straße 50, 1080 Vienna +43 1 4051198 U2 Rathaus, U6 Josefstädter Straße

DEBORAH SENGL Deborah Sengl was born in 1974 to a family of Viennese artists. She graduated from the University of Applied Arts in Vienna in 1992. In 1997, she graduated from Christian Ludwig Attersee's master class. She lives and works in Vienna. Her first works include stage designs for theatre productions. At the age of eight she was on stage herself for a short time in a play directed by Helmut Qualtinger.

P O R T R A

Sengl’s meeting point for networking with fellow artists: “One of the art scene’s most pleasant Viennese restaurants with an Italian spirit. Also serves fabulous food.”

he Viennese artist Deborah Sengl knows how to stir up the art world, be it with her hybrid lion-zebra sculpture or with taxidermied rats. With great sensitivity, her work examines the human desire for attention. “We all adjust ourselves, deceive others, manipulate things, all with specific goals in mind. We constantly slip into different roles.” She is fascinated by the topics of disguise and deception, behavioural patterns that can also be found in nature with the difference that here it is part of the survival instinct: victims pretend to be the offender or vice versa. With humans, it is intentional. Sengl knows what she’s talking about. For her mother’s sake, she studied biology for three semesters before she decided to switch to visual arts. In her work, Sengl likes to interpret things quite literally. Her sources can be the silly goat or the lazy dog, all those animal characteristics that are used to describe human traits. But Sengl turns the tables and goes one step further. Not only does she put the proverbial wolf in sheep’s clothing but she also dresses the wolf in traditional Roman Catholic priest vestment complete with curls and bared teeth. By linking humorous depictions of human traits with the animal

I world in paradoxical, often bizarre ways, Deborah Sengl’s work leaves strong impressions. Her latest and largest work to date commemorates the outbreak of the First World War and was shown at the Essl collection in Klosterneuburg. Die letzten Tage der Menschheit (The Last Day of Mankind), Karl Kraus’s monumental work that was written as a response to the World War, precisely captures the absurdity of war like no other literary work. In her exhibition, Sengl recreated 44 of Kraus’s 200 scenes by combining history, literature and contemporary art in an extraordinary way. 200 stuffed, white rats, arranged in Sengl’s typically distinct style, mirror the dawn of the first modern war, thematising the continuation of quotidian hostilities with macabre casualness based on the satirical reality outlined in Kraus’ text: on the streets, at the authorities, while reading propagandist press releases, at the dinner table. A reality in which people resemble not humans but rats. “And rats, in turn, are very similar to people,” says Sengl. “They are the most selfish beings in the animal world. They always think of themselves first.”

Current exhibitions on www.deborahsengl.com

101

12pts

⑴

PRATER

⑵

VEGANISTA

⑶

NASCHMARKT

⑷

BLUMENKRAFT

⑸ TIAN

⑹

KARMELITERMARKT

⑺

BRUNNENMARKT

⑻

HOLLEREI

⑼

Greanes Wean Urban Nature

102

RAW SHOP

Hot & New!

⑽

SWING KITCHEN

⑾

DONAUTURM

⑿

HIDDEN KITCHEN

Susanne Bisovsky Fashion Designer

12pts

Can you believe it? Vienna is the only city in the world with an option for salvation because on the outskirts you’ll find the so-called “Himmel” (heaven) – a green sanctuary, just like the Cobenzl or the Bellevuewiese, which is home to the Sigmund Freud memorial. The memorial is only half a cubic metre and bears an inscription that reads, “This is where the secret of the dream was revealed to Dr. Sigmund Freud.” No surfing, no golfing, but how about stringing yourself up on a silent tree (the Viennese would say “aufknüpfen”), or, alternatively, following the trail of life? Make some bold, spirited moves all the way to heaven.

U R B A N N A T U R E

103

12pts 1020 Vienna – Prater

Prater

The Wurstelprater amusement park, simply called “Prater”, attracts the young and old alike. The ferris wheel at the entrance is one of Vienna’s most famous landmarks. The Prater is home to carousels, roller coasters and the Viennese branch of the famous Madame Tussauds wax museum. However, the Prater is much more than its amusement park. The historic Liliputbahn, a narrow-gauge railway, will take you to the greener bits of the Prater comprising six million square metres of green spaces which was singled out as one of the most beautiful parks in the world by Focus magazine. The former hunting area of the Habsburgs is now a recreational area where you P R A T E R can go for a relaxing walk, a jog or a bike ride. Children meet on the playground and Prater the teens hang out at the BMX and skating tracks. 1020 Vienna The main location is the 4.5 km-long long avenue, lined with 2,500 trees between Praterstern Praterstern and the old hunting lodge, Lusthaus.

U R B A N N A T U R E

⑴

1070 Vienna – Neustiftgasse

Veganista

⑵

afterwards sorely missed by its fans. Artificial additives and ice If you get featured by design cream mixes are an absolute no-go at Veganista. bible Wallpaper as one of the Instead, they sweeten their ice cream with agave and maple editor’s picks, are hyped by syrup while diabetics opt for flavours with birch sugar. Wafers international food blogs and have masses queuing up in and cups are made from starch. Recently Veganista started to supply front of your shop, you can be the gourmet restaurant in the Palais Coburg with its vegan ice sure that you did everything cream creations. right. This is the case with The sisters’ two indepenVeganista, Austria’s first fully dent branches are located vegan ice cream parlour. in Vienna’s trendy districts Cecilia Havmöller (former Neubau and Margareten: the head of Lush cosmetics) and sister Susanna Paller deliver flagship on Neustiftgasse the total package: chic shops and a compelling product. 23 / 3, and their second branch After attending the New Jersey Ice Cream University on Margaretenstraße 51. they chose elegant Moroccan tiles for their venue and created a convincing corporate identity with pretty pastel colours. But most important is their product, which is 100 % natural. V E G A N I S T A Ice cream made from soy, rice and coconut milk, Neustiftgasse 23 mixed with certified organic fruits and vegetables. 1070 Vienna Discover innovative flavours including tonka bean and Volkstheater basil, peas and avocado, matcha tea and Earl Grey. +43 1 9610845 Ice cream champion Susanna loves to experiment www.veganista.at with seasonal fruits and regularly creates limited Mon – Thu 12:00am – 7:00pm editions. Her fig-flavoured ice cream, for example, is Fri – Sun 12:00am – 8:00pm only available during the fig harvest in August and

104

12pts 1040–1060 Vienna – Naschmarkt

Naschmarkt

⑶

The most famous of all Viennese markets, a combination of original Viennese market-stall wit and oriental Bazaar N A S C H M A R K T atmosphere. The offer ranges between Karlsplatz and Kettenbrückengasse 1040–1060 Vienna from culinary Karlsplatz specialties and deli Kettenbrückengasse products to exotic as Mon – Fri 6:00am – 7:30pm well as domestic Sat 6:00am – 6:00pm products. Bars, Cafés, Restaurants The flea market Mon – Sat 6:00am – 11:00pm on Naschmarkt is a meeting point for collectors Flea Market and bargain hunters in search of second-hand Sat 6:30am – 6:00pm (also on public holidays) items, antiques and oddities. 1040 Vienna – Schleifmühlgasse

Blumenkraft

U R

⑷

N A T U

Mon – Fri 10:00am – 7:00pm Sat 10:00am – 2:00pm

Tian

A N

Famed Vienna architects Eichinger oder Knechtl have already endowed Vienna with several restaurants and cafés. One of the city’s loveliest shops also bears their signature. Clear lines and an exquisite choice of materials paired with a dramatic spatial design make Christine Fink’s florist shop a must-see experience – due not B L U M E N K R A F T least to her own artfully Schleifmühlgasse 4 presented flowers and plants. 1040 Vienna Blumenkraft also offers Taubstummengasse personalised assistance in +43 1 5857727 designing floral arrangements www.blumenkraft.at or gardens.

1010 Vienna – Himmelpfortgasse

R E

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Vegetarian food in Vienna on a par with three-toque restaurants? Head straight to Tian. Chef Paul Ivic brought meat-free dining to the next level. Since 2011 he’s been experimenting with flavours of almost forgotten vegetables and various types of grains that are grown in his own organic garden in Carinthia. Guests enjoy his culinary experiments in four- to eightcourse meals, some of which can also be prepared entirely vegan. Lunchtime is all about the light dishes: try the twoT I A N course meal with wild garlic soup and saffron kohlrabi risotto. Himmelpfortgasse 23 More highlights from his menu: mouth-watering desserts 1010 Vienna like mini Gugelhupf, Crêpe Suzette and vegan chocolate mousse. Stubentor The patisserie is led by Thomas Scheiblhofer and all +43 1 8904665 desserts are available for take-out. The vegan cappuccino at www.taste-tian.com Tian is unmissable. It’s served with soy, rice, or coconut milk Tue – Sat 12:00pm – midnight topped off with a hint of vanilla.

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12pts 1020 Vienna – Im Werd, Krummbaumgasse, Leopoldsgasse, Haidgasse

Karmelitermarkt

⑹

The Karmeliter district surrounding the open food market is booming with trendy pubs and restaurants, studios and fancy lofts. Here Arabs mingle with Orthodox Jews, and farmers join the market on Fridays and Saturdays. K A R M E L I T E R M A R K T Im Werd, Krummbaumgasse, Leopoldsgasse, Haidgasse 1020 Vienna Taborstraße Mon – Fri 6:00am – 7:30pm Sat 6:00am – 5:00pm

Bars, Cafés, Restaurants Mon – Sat 6:00am – 11:00pm

R B A

1160 Vienna – Brunnengasse

Brunnenmarkt

Vienna’s longest street market, the Brunnenmarkt (fountain market), is located in the multicultural district between Thaliastraße and Ottakringerstraße. With a large number of Turkish people living in this area, the market offers fresh vegetables, fish, exotic spices and much more. Haggling is the order of the day here – similar to the markets in Southern Europe. At the end of the day the products are sold at reduced prices as the traders want to clear their stalls. The Brunnenmarkt is also home to numerous B R U N N E N M A R K T eateries along the Brunnengasse. One of them Brunnengasse until Yppenplatz is Kent, located in a beautiful garden with foun1160 Vienna tains and serving traditional Turkish fare. Josefstädterstraße At the end of the Brunnenmarkt it goes over into the Mon – Fri 6:00am – 7:30pm Yppenmarkt – another colourful area in Vienna and a Sat 6:00am – 5:00pm popular meeting point thanks to eateries like the An-Do, Bars, Cafés, Restaurants Café C.I. and Wetter.

N A T U R E

⑺

Mon – Sat 6:00am – 11:00pm

1150 Vienna – Hollergasse

Hollerei It might look like a traditional tavern but the food is exclusively vegetarian: introducing the Hollerei, a real gem of a vegetarian restaurant. Located in the 15th district (an area that isn’t necessarily famous for its restaurant scene) the Hollerei proves that fresh vegetables and herbs suffice to prepare a deliciously hearty meal. The menu offers risotto, casseroles and stews, oftentimes with seasonal influences (think wild garlic and asparagus) and flavours borrowed from Asian H O L L E R E I cuisine. Highly recommended: the Thai Hollergasse 9 curry with sweet potatoes or fried rice noodles. 1150 Vienna Slices of buckwheat bread fresh from the Schönbrunn oven or zucchini risotto with pumpkin seed oil +43 1 8923356 range among the more traditional options. www.hollerei.at Customers interested in modern art can visit Mon – Sat 11:30am – 3:00pm, 6:00pm – 11:00pm the gallery on the opposite side of the street. Fun fact: even Sun 11.30am – 3.00pm T. C. Boyle was once a guest at the Hollerei.

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12pts 1060 Vienna – Otto-Bauer-Gasse

Raw Shop

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In the restaurant world, the term “raw” is associated with the food movement that specialises in uncooked dishes. Maja Scheid is part of this movement and named her shop on Otto-Bauer-Gasse after this very characteristic. She prepares brownies, pizza and chocolate from raw cocoa, algae, goji berries and nuts. Conventional sugar, gluten, lactose, flavours, and even carbohydrates are a no-go for the trained pastry chef. Her pizza dough is made of flaxseed flour and ground sunflower seeds. Her chocolate is mixed with hemp seeds and fig. The smoothies at Raw Shop contain up to six different fruits and vegetables – they are rich in vitamins and serve as delicious energy boosters. Maja Scheid fondly calls them “a small meal.” Since the 23-year-old prepares all of her products (from walnut date cookies to orange cheesecake) from scratch she can give precise information on all ingredients – something that her guests with allergies or intolerances R A W S H O P are very happy Otto-Bauer-Gasse 11 about. 1060 Vienna

U R B A

Zieglergasse

+43 1 9671187 www.facebook.com/rawshopwien Tue – Fri 10:00am – 7:00pm Sat 10:00am – 5:00pm

1070 Vienna – Schottenfeldgasse

Hot & New!

Swing Kitchen

⑽

So your restaurant in the countryside is constantly fully booked? Why don’t you open a second branch in the city? That’s exactly what Irene and Charly Schillinger did. The couple have been an institution in the vegan scene for many years now. Their country inn in the Lower Austrian town Großmugl offers home-cooked food, all of it vegan retakes on Austrian classics such as Surschnitzel, fried chicken and chops. In early 2015 they opened their second restaurant in the Austrian capital: the Swing Kitchen on Schottenfeldgasse that offers healthy fast food at affordable prices. “We cook tasty meals without compromising on origin or quality,” S W I N G K I T C H E N explains Charly Schillinger. Nuggets, Schottenfeldgasse 3 burgers and the “best fries in town” 1070 Vienna are made from locally-sourced GMZieglergasse free products. The patties at Swing www.swingkitchen.com Kitchen are made from European soy Mon – Sat 11:00am – 10:00pm and wheat proteins. Traditional white bread buns with high sugar content are replaced by ciabatta sourdough buns. Apart from burgers, Swing Kitchen also offers wraps that can be ordered individually or as part of a meal deal in classic fastfood style. Got a sweet tooth and a craving for coffee? Indulge in Sacher muffins, tiramisu and Fairtrade coffee.

A T U R E

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12pts 1220 Vienna – Donauturmstraße

Donauturm

U R

D O N A U T U R M

Donauturmstraße 4 1220 Vienna Kaisermühlen-VIC or Alte Donau

+43 1 2633572 www.donauturm.at

Observation Deck & Café daily 10:00am – midnight Restaurant daily 11:30am – 3:00pm, 6:00pm – midnight

N A T

⑾ The tallest building in town, the Vienna Donauturm, is located in the Donaupark and was built for the International Garden Festival in 1965. With a total height of 252 metres, it is even taller than St. Stephen’s Cathedral. 776 steps lead to a viewing platform at a height of 150 meters. Two express lifts with glass ceilings will help you to make your way up: 35 seconds and you’ve reached your destination. The tower also houses a transmitting station, a bungee jump platform and two rotating restaurants (a full rotation takes roughly 26 minutes) where guests enjoy panoramic views over the city. The Donaupark at the foot of the Donauturm covers an area of almost 800,000 square metres and is a popular recreation area – with lovers sitting under the white poplars while sports enthusiasts play minigolf and make use of the free tennis courts. Even the pope has been to the park: in 1985 he celebrated a Mass for his followers on the so-called Pope meadow.

1010 Vienna – Färbergasse

Hidden Kitchen

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Since 2010, salad and quiche lovers have had a favourite place to go in the first district: Julia Katas’ Hidden Kitchen behind the Freyung. At a time when health food wasn’t trendy yet, the former fine-arts student blazed a trail by specialising in mainly vegetarian food without preservatives, emulsifiers or flavour enhancers, served on prettily arranged plates in a shabby chic setting that recalls eateries in New York and London. The lunch meals are served in the large self-service buffet area. Try the Kurukuma carrot soup with yogurt, sweet potatoes with pecan nuts and lamb meat balls with chilli and guacamole. But don’t wait for too long – many of the delicious dishes start to run out at around 1 pm already.

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Julia Katas’ salad offer is equally mouth-watering: indulge in celery curry salad with goji berries, Indian cucumber salad with fresh coconut, or freekeh and lentil salad with roasted carrots. If you’re in a hurry, you can have a soup or smoothie to go. We can also strongly recommend the dessert menu including carrot cake and poppyseed-and-cream-cheese cupcakes. In summer, the Hidden Kitchen offers a picnic basket rental service. Julia Katas fills a picnic basket with salads, quiches, Spanish potato tortillas, cider and homemade lemonade. The price: € 39 (plus a € 10 deposit for crockery and cutlery) for two people. Pack your picnic blanket H I D D E N K I T C H E N and head to the Färbergasse 3 Burggarten. 1010 Vienna A lazy afternoon Herrengasse in the park +43 1 2768398 has never tasted www.hiddenkitchen.at so good. Mon – Fri 10:00am – 4:00pm

12pts S U S A N N E B I S OV S K Y – FA S H I O N D E S I G N E R

Everlasting Viennese Chic

SUSAN N E B ISOVSK Y Vienna by night Leopoldsberg, 1190 Vienna U4 Heiligenstadt I love getting chauffeured through the suburbs at night, all the way up to the Leopoldsberg from where you can see Vindobona from above. The best place in town!

Spinnerin am Kreuz Triesterstraße 52, 1100 Vienna U6 Siebenhirten

Vienna-based fashion designer Susanne Bisovsky creates haute couture and ready-to-wear collections with charming names like “Everlasting”, “Innocentia” or “Mitgift” (dowry). In her atelier on Seidengasse just off Brillantengrund she presents “Viennese Chic”, a clothing style tailored to the Viennese lady while at the same time representing a modern cosmopolitan city.

R R A

Church flea markets www.flohmarkt.at/flohmaerkte/wien

A reflection of bygone times and fashion trends where you can discover homemade goods. The diligent old men behind the stalls will make you smile.

O T

The Gothic stone sculpture will bless your next pilgrimages to Mariazell, Trieste or the shopping mall.

diosyncratic, nonconformist, different – these are the terms that best describe both Susanne Bisovsky and her work. Her creations are often associated with the concepts of tradition, folk and traditional dress, definitions that the fashion designer revises over and over again. After all, she is influenced not only by the past, but also by the present and future, all of which are reflected in her distinctive style. She refers to her aesthetics as “Wiener Chic” and designs timeless haute couture and ready-to-wear collections that carry profound names like “Everlasting”, “Innocentia” or “Mitgift” (dowry). Susanne Bisovsky rejects pigeonholing. Instead she always focuses on the bigger picture. Accordingly, she regards fashion design neither as an art form nor crafts. In a more pragmatic way, she thinks of it as a means to achieve the very best for her customers – from an aesthetic, functional, and substantial point of view. What’s the best that can happen to Vienna according to Bisovsky, who originally comes from Upper Austria?

T “Not to become Berlin”, she says convincingly. To her mind, every city has to tell its very own story that consequently leads to the formation of a unique style. She is critical of the growing uniformity of international shopping malls: “Imagine, at some point visiting other cities would become completely redundant”. The fact that Vienna hasn’t always been a pioneering force in an international context might play to the city’s advantage now. “Maybe this is what people like to see again”, the designer says. Speaking of preferences, what does Susanne Bisovsky wear in everyday life? “Warm clothes! I’m cold very often, like many other people.” It’s difficult to elicit more information from the couturière, especially about her personal life. In the past Susanne Bisovsky has worked with famous designers including Helmut Lang and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac but emphasises that it hasn’t turned her into “a selfie person”. It is a statement that isn’t triggered by false modesty but testifies to her incredible authenticity. Indeed, you can call her idiosyncratic and nonconformist – simply different.

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12pts

⑴

FRIEDHOF DER NAMENLOSEN

⑵

THE THIRD MAN TOUR

⑶

BONBONNIÈRE BAR

⑷

KIRCHE AM STEINHOF

⑸

FLAKTURM

⑹ CARLA

⑺

CATACOMBS

⑻

SALON ER-ICH

⑼

DANUBE ISLAND NATURIST ZONES

⑽

HOTEL ORIENT

Oarges Wean 110

Freaky Corners

⑾

KAISERGRUFT

⑿

NARRENTURM

12pts

F R E A K

Olga Neuwirth Composer

One of the most important Art Nouveau churches in the world is located in a bizarre area on the periphery of the city, situated 310 metres above sea level. Upon entering the church, it might feel like an elegant yet weird night club. The building was erected by the great Viennese architect Otto Wagner, who also designed the neighbouring Otto-Wagner-Spital. It’s home to a considerable number of Vienna’s mentally disabled, affectionately called “Wiener Narren”. On top of the hillside you’ll find the church – think Fritz Lang’s Metropolis – and experience the vastness of the Vienna Woods. The air is clean and the “Narren” are peaceful. The odd pre-Art Nouveau surrounding resembles a historic Hollywood film set and below you can see the different parts of the city, our city, the city of Vienna, writhing under the sky. In 2010, she was the first woman and youngest winner ever to receive the Grand Austrian State Prize for Music. Last year she received rave reviews for her composition American Lulu ... continued on page 117

Y C O R N E R S

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12pts 1110 Vienna – Alberner Hafen

Friedhof der Namenlosen

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The Cemetery of the Nameless at Alberner Hafen is an eerily beautiful place that even many Viennese don’t know. Between 1840 and 1940 numerous murder, accident and suicide victims were brought ashore by the currents of the Danube. Most of the bodies were buried on the spot and remained unidentified and nameless. Instead of grave stones, wrought iron crosses commemorate the deceased. Inextricably linked to the history of the small cemetery is the life of gravedigger Josef Fuchs. Until 1939 he buried the bodies himself. After his retirement, he continued to maintain the area on a voluntary basis. Since Fuchs’s death in 1996, his family has taken care of the cemetery with help from the City of Vienna and the harbour. The mystical place is deemed a true insider tip especially since Richard Linklater’s film Before Sunrise in which the American Jesse (Ethan Hawke) and the Frenchwoman Celine (Julie Delpy) visit the cemetery.

F R E A

F R I E D H O F

D E R

N A M E N L O S E N

Alberner Hafen 1110 Vienna

+43 660 6003023, +43 664 6235664 www.friedhof-der-namenlosen.at open 24/7

C O R N E R S

1010 Vienna – Karlsplatz Girardipark

The Third Man Tour Granted, Vienna has a lot brighter, better smelling and more attractive places to offer than its sewer system. Nevertheless it is one of the must-sees for fearless visitors in Vienna – not only for the filmmakers among them. What is to discover in Vienna’s peculiar underworld? The original location of Carol Reed’s film classic The Third Man, a city under the city. As part of the Third Man tour you’ll go underground and leave Vienna’s splendour and waltzes far behind. The year is 1947. Destroyed houses line the streets of Vienna. The city is governed by the four Allied Powers and the international police. The black market is flourishing. Espionage and east-west politics dominate the city. During these years in post-war Vienna, the American Holly Martins (Joseph Cotten), author of cheap Western novels, wants to reunite with his old childhood friend Harry Lime (Orson Welles). Upon his arrival, however, he learns that Harry was killed in a car accident and T H E

T H I R D

M A N

T O U R

Karlsplatz Girardipark / opposite Café Museum 1010 Vienna Karlsplatz +43 1 40003033 www.drittemanntour.at Thu – Sun 10:00am – 8:00pm (last tour 07:00pm) 18/05 – 24/05 daily 10:00am – 8:00pm

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⑵

had previously earned his living as a penicillin smuggler. Looking for explanations, Holly is more and more drawn into the dark deeds of his deceased friend. The movie finally ends where it began: at Harry’s funeral in Vienna’s Central Cemetery. Not only the spectacular escape scene through the Viennese sewer system but also the film music composed by Anton Karas have quickly gained cult status. The Viennese zither player was the first Austrian to make it to the top of the US charts. Reservations for the sewer tour, which will be held daily during the Eurovision Song Contest, are highly recommended.

12pts 1010 Vienna – Spiegelgasse

Bonbonnière Bar

⑶

Plush, piano music, upholstered walls (think red silk) and heavy crystal chandeliers: the Bonbonnière bar takes its visitors to another time and space – to the post-war years in Vienna to be more precise. It’s said to be the oldest bar in town and can be considered a real Viennese institution. Fans appreciate the live piano sessions at night, the convivial atmosphere and the special charm that characterises the B O N B O N N I È R E B A R small venue. Spiegelgasse 15 And another thing they appreci1010 Vienna ate is its discretion: what happens Stephansplatz at the Bonbonnière bar stays at the +43 1 5126886 Bonbonnière bar. Mon – Sat 6:00pm – 2:00am

1140 Vienna – Baumgartner Höhe

Kirche am Steinhof & Steinhofgründe

⑷

Flakturm

E A K

This area used to be the Ottakringer quarries. Today it is one of the most beautiful green spaces in the city. The untouched recreation area Steinhofgründe offers hiking trails and picnic lawns, all complete with sweeping views of Vienna. The area is also home to the Baumgartner Psychiatric Hospital. During the Second World War the mental hospital was the K I R C H E A M S T E I N H O F centre of the Nazis’ Children’s Euthanasia Baumgartner Höhe 1 Program. Countless disabled children 1140 Vienna were killed here. An exhibition in Pavilion V Ottakring elucidates the dark past of the hospital. +43 1 91060-11007-204 An architectural highlight of the Steinwww.wienkav.at/ows hofgründe is the Kirche am Steinhof Sat 3:00pm – 5:00pm, (Church of St. Leopold) designed by Otto Sun 12:00pm – 4:00pm Wagner. It ranges among one of the Guided Tours most important Art Nouveau churches in Sat 3:00pm, Sun 4:00pm the world. 1060 Vienna – Fritz-Grünbaum-Platz

Y C O R N E R

⑸

During the Second World War the Nazis built a number of high-rise bunkers for antiaircraft cannons, six of which you can find in the Austrian capital. The one in Esterhazy Park – close to the shopping street Mariahilfer Straße – is used for various purposes today. It houses the House of the Sea managed by non-profit organisation Aqua Terra Zoo, an exhibition called “Erinnern im Innern”, a climbing wall and the Torture F L A K T U R M Museum operated by Amnesty International. Fritz-Grünbaum-Platz 1 A striking feature of the flak tower is 1060 Vienna the warning message on the facade: “Smashed to Neubaugasse pieces in the still of the night”, installed +43 1 5871417 by American artist Lawrence Weiner during the www.haus-des-meeres.at Vienna Festival in 1991. daily 9:00am – 6:00pm Guests who manage to climb the 192 exterior steps of the flak tower leading to the roof Thu 9:00am – 9:00pm terrace on the 9th floor will be rewarded with an impressive view over Vienna. Another two floors up, you can soak in the view at the ocean’sky cafe.

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12pts 1050 Vienna – Mittersteig

Carla

F R E A K Y C O R N E R S

⑹

Looking for those special pieces that tell a story? At thrift shop Carla, only a stone’s throw away from the city centre, a wide range of second-hand pieces including furniture, clothing, accessories and china are ready to be picked up by new owners. This might just sound like any other C A R L A thrift shop but Carla is run by the Mittersteig 10 Caritas charity. Unemployed people are 1050 Vienna assisted by professionals in preparing Kettenbrückengasse the vintage pieces for sale while learning +43 1 5059637 new skills and becoming employable www.carla-wien.at again. The proceeds go to charity projects. Mon – Fri 9:00am – 6:00pm The range of products is massive: Sat 9:00am – 1:00pm spread over four halls and 4,000 square metres you can discover anything from simple shoe racks and designer sofas to mugs and Murano vases. 1010 Vienna – Stephansplatz

Catacombs

⑺

Suffering from claustrophobia? Skip this part. A fan of the morbid? Read on and visit the catacombs beneath St. Stephen’s Cathedral in the city centre. More than 10,000 people have been buried in the 30 grave chambers here. A section of the dark underground realm can be visited when you book a guided tour. The Viennese have always been said to have a special relationship with death. For centuries, the city’s inhabitants wanted their dear departed as close as possible at all C A T A C O M B S times. In 1783 Emperor Joseph II St. Stephen’s Cathedral forbade funerals in the city centre for Stephansplatz 3 hygiene reasons and burials were 1010 Vienna moved to the former suburbs. Stephansplatz The bones from the previously +43 1 515523054 buried stayed, however, and you can www.stephanskirche.at still see them today, stacked all Mon – Sat 10:00am – 11:30am, 1:30pm – 4:30pm the way to the ceiling in the grave Sun and public holidays 1:30pm – 4:30pm chambers under the cathedral. 1010 Vienna – Griechengasse

Salon Er-Ich

⑻

Is it a public living room? A barber shop? Or group therapy? Erich Joham’s hair salon Er-Ich cannot be easily categorised. One thing is certain, however. Apart from his hairdressing skills, you’ll also get to know a part of Viennese culture at Joham’s salon, for his offer goes far beyond a dashing new hairdo. Erich is considered a local celebrity, campaigner and storyteller. Not only does he know how to cut hair but he’s S A L O N E R - I C H also dedicated to maintaining Griechengasse 7 Viennese salon culture. 1010 Vienna At Er-Ich he gossips, chats Schwedenplatz and networks with his +43 1 5356677 customers. Comparisons with psychotherapy practices are by no facebook.com/pages/Salon-Er-Ich/44332858018 means far-fetched and fortunately Joham is aware of a hairTue – Fri 11:00am – 7:00pm dresser’s duty to remain silent. The average Joe and Vienna’s celebSat 11:00am – 4:00pm rities, politicians and businesspeople certainly appreciate it.

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12pts 1210 & 1220 Vienna

Danube Island Naturist Zones

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Vienna’s many nudies gather in summer at the naturist zones of the Danube Island for sunbathing – a place that’s populated by equally interesting people wearing clothes. The most insightful glimpses into the nudist scene are probably provided by the Alltagsgeschichten (Stories of everyday life) by legendary film maker Spira. The series features Herr Walter – butt naked except for his rollerblades – skating through the beer garden and thinking out loud about his retirement and politics. Rudi, a former truck driver, is a nudist from the bottom of his heart. He divides the world into the good, the nudies, and the bad, the peepers. Signs on the pavement indicate the Danube Island nudist zones (FKK for Freikörperkultur). D A N U B E I S L A N D N A T U R I S T Z O N E S There are two areas: one in the north spanning the 1210 & 1220 Vienna kilometres from 17.7 to 19.5 and one in the Donauinsel south spanning kilometres 2.1 to 5.1. Neue Donau Shelve your sense of shame: get a seamless +43 1 400096500 (“Island Info”) tan and enjoy a naked swim in the cool water! www.wien.gv.at/umwelt/wasserbau/donauinsel/freizeit/fkk.html open 24/7

1010 Vienna – Tiefer Graben

Hotel Orient H O T E L

⑽

R E A K Y C O R N

O R I E N T

Tiefer Graben 30 1010 Vienna Schottentor Herrengasse

+43 1 5337307 www.hotelorient.at

open 24/7

The Orient hotel is one of the most inventive by-the-hour hotels in the world. 300 years ago, the Orient was still located close to the water. A tributary of the Danube led through the Tiefer Graben that allowed sailors to bring their cargo into the city on small boats. The former tavern soon developed into a hub for all kinds of goods from the East including spices, fabrics, and jewellery. It gradually became a mini version of the real-world Orient in its own right. The naughty side of the establishment makes up another chapter of the Orient history – with royals in leading roles. Emperor Franz Joseph himself is said to have brought his mistresses here on a regular basis. In the 1970s, the Orient was acquired by bon vivant Heinz Werner Schimanko and has since developed into a love nest for couples and adulterers alike.

The plush bar is also the perfect location to have a cheeky drink. The premium rooms have promising names such as 1001 Nights, Engerl & Bengerl (Angels and Rascals) or Emperor Suite. Despite a strict photography ban the hotel is featured in a range of classics such as The Third Man or several Tatort episodes. Discretion is one of the most important features at the Orient. However, rumour has it that Udo Jürgens once set foot in the love hotel which is now run by Schimanko’s sun Heinz Rüdiger. The Orient is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year – as long as there are desires.

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12pts 1010 Vienna – Tegetthoffstraße

Kaisergruft

F R E A K Y C O R N E R S

116

Ever wondered where deceased Emperors rest? Imagine magnificent sarcophaguses and the bodies of 146 Habsburgs: the Imperial Crypt below the Capuchin Church is the largest and most distinguished burial chamber in the world. Unsurprisingly, given Vienna’s predilection for what they call “die schöne Leich” (“the beautiful corpse”). Since 1633, 149 members of the noble family have been buried here including Maria Theresa, Emperor Franz Joseph I and Empress Elisabeth who is better known as Sissi. A special tradition: all of them were buried without hearts and entrails. Their hearts are stored in the heart crypt of St. Augustine, their innards in urns under St. Stephen’s Cathedral. The Imperial Crypt still hosts funerals today. Zita, the last empress of Austria, was buried here in 1989, and only a few years ago her eldest son, Crown Prince and former European politician Otto Habsburg and his wife Regina found their final resting place at the Imperial Crypt. 1090 Vienna – Spitalgasse

Narrenturm

⑾

K A I S E R G R U F T Tegetthoffstraße 2 1010 Vienna Stephansplatz +43 1 5126853-16 www.kaisergruft.at daily 10:00am – 6:00pm

⑿

The Narrentum is located in Vienna’s university centre Altes AKH and qualifies as a true curiosity. Upon completion in 1784, the building was considered Europe’s first hospital that exclusively treated the mentally ill. Today, the Grade II listed tower is home to the world’s largest collection of pathological specimens, with more than 45,000 exhibits. Book a guided tour dealing with medical topics such as electropathology but bear in mind that steady nerves are required. Historically the Narrenturm ties in with the transformation of the Viennese medical service initiated by the enlightened Emperor Joseph II. Back then, doctors mainly treated their patients by bloodletting and emetics, aiming for a balance of humours. Historians explain the N A R R E N T U R M Emperor’s strong interest in the mental Spitalgasse 2, Uni-Campus Hof 6 health care system by pointing to possible 1090 Vienna connections with secret societies, including Schottentor the Masons and Rosicrucians, whose Alser Straße alchemical numerology can be found sur+43 1 52177-606 prisingly often in the Narrenturm. www.narrenturm.at Later in history the tower was used as a Wed 10:00am – 6:00pm dormitory for medical staff, a depot of Sat 10:00am – 1:00pm the university hospitals and a workshop.

12pts OLGA NEUWIRTH – COMPOSER

The score of grumpiness

OLGA NEUWIRTH Restaurant Prinz Ferdinand Bennoplatz 2, 1080 Vienna +43 1 4029417 U6 Josefstädter Straße Excellent Austrian cuisine. In summer you can sit outside under old trees.

Vienna Botanical Garden Landstraße (next to Belvedere palace), 1030 Vienna +43 1 427754100 U1 Hauptbahnhof The perfect place for a stroll all year round.

Olga Neuwirth was born in Graz in 1968. She studied music, painting and film in Vienna and San Francisco. In 2010, she was the first woman and youngest winner ever to receive the Grand Austrian State Prize for Music. Last year she received rave reviews for her composition American Lulu, a re-interpretation and complementation of Alban Berg’s famous opera Lulu. The sounds were bizarre and shrill. She is currently working on a “sound portrait” of an old, abandoned church in Venice which has been left to decay, as well as an opera based on Virginia Woolf’s novel Orlando which is due to open in 2019 at the Vienna State Opera.

R T R I T

Rupp’s Pub in Margareten. Bizarre mix of vegetarian cuisine and whiskeys, of which there is an excellent selection

Das Rupp’s Arbeitergasse 46, 1050 Vienna +43 1 5452284 U4 Margaretengürtel

o, she is not related to Thomas Neuwirth alias Conchita Wurst who represented Austria at last year’s Eurovision Song Contest and brought this year’s edition to Vienna. They only share the same surname. And maybe fate. “It’s not easy to be a young, unconventional artist in Austria”, Olga Neuwirth said in an interview. “In many cases you will only be accepted after celebrating big successes abroad. This isn’t necessarily a nice thing.” On the other hand, “some level of suffering,” she adds with a wink, can be helpful if you want to express yourself artistically. “If you’re lost in rapture, artistic stagnation is inevitable.” Olga Neuwirth lived abroad for many years. One of her temporary hometowns was Venice, where she composed custom-made pieces for the city. She has “been here and there, wherever life takes me, wherever I can find shelter.” Her friends call her “Pfitschi-Pfeil”, a fast arrow that flies around. The self-proclaimed city nomad has a

mixed relationship with Vienna. “I don’t like the insidious gossip in the city, but I like the locals’ quirky grumpiness and their grim humour,” she says. “But Vienna has changed a lot. It has been sucked into globalisation and becomes more even every year. I miss the old, weird eccentricities of the city. ” But they do still exist, these hidden, enchanted places where Vienna is still Vienna. In Margareten she likes to go to “Rupp’s Pub”, a unique combination of whiskey bar and vegetarian eatery. In her spare time you’ll find her in the Botanical Garden or on a boat on the Danube Water Meadows. Her most favourite place, however, is the Werkelmuseum in the Bohemian Prater in the tenth district Favoriten. “I’ve always been interested in mechanical musical instruments,” says Neuwirth. “And this littleknown private collection of jukeboxes and instruments introduces you to a side of Vienna that barely exists these days. I feel good here.”

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W H O W H A T W

Vienna Directory

H E N W H E R E H O W

Drawings: Christian Qualtinger

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12pts FIRST AID

Vienna Survival Kit G E N E R A L I N F O R M AT I O N Currency – Euro

Language – German

Money – ATMs widespread, not all

Area codes – for Austria: 0043,

24 hours. Cash payments most common, credit cards sometimes not accepted. Time – Central European Time

(GMT/UTC plus 1 hour) Central European Summer Time (GMT/UTC plus 2 hours)

E S

for Vienna: 01

Tourist Information Vienna –

1. Albertinaplatz / Maysedergasse, behind the Opera House www.wien.info daily 9:00 am – 7:00 pm

S E N T

E M E R G E N C Y

Opening Hours

Fire ........ Police ...... Ambulance ... Doctor ......

Banks

8:00 am or 9:00 am to 3:00 pm, Monday to Friday, with extended hours until 5:30 pm on Thursdays.

Cafes

7:00 am or 8:00 am to 11:00 pm or midnight, some traditional coffeehouses and cafes close at 7:00 pm or 8:00 pm.

Pubs & Clubs

Opening times vary, closing hours normally between midnight and 4:00 am throughout the week.

Restaurants

Generally 11:00 am to 2:30 pm or 3:00 pm, and 6:00 pm to 11:00 pm or midnight. Some kitchens are open all day.

T I P P I N G

I N

Tips are generally expected at restaurants, bars and cafes. It is customary to add a 10% tip, or round up a bill if service was not so great.

Shops

The shops on the shopping streets and in the malls are open Monday to Friday 9:30 am – 7:00 pm, and 9:00 am – 5:00 pm on Saturdays. Many shops are open until 9:00 pm on Thursdays or until 7:30 pm on Fridays. Further shopping possibilities on Sundays and holidays are in pastry shops, at the Southern and the Western train stations as well as at the Schwechat airport.

Supermarkets

Among the most widespread, Billa, Hofer, Spar and Merkur open from 7:30 am to 7:30 pm, Monday to Friday, and until 6:00 pm Saturday.

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A U S T R I A

122 133 144 141

12pts P U B L I C

T R A N S P O R T

Hotline: +43 1 7909-100, 5:00am – 12:30am www.wienerlinien.at Transport Tickets and Passes

Getting Around U-Bahn – Fast, comfortable and safe. U-Bahn runs all night on weekends. Tickets are bought at machines or station ticket offices.

Tram – Slower but more enjoyable. Tickets are bought from kiosks or from the driver. Validate ticket when boarding.

Single Ticket €2.20 good for one journey with line changes. 24/48/72 Hour Ticket €7.60/13.30/16.50 Validation required. Eight Day Ticket €38.40 valid for eight days, but not necessarily eight consecutive days; punch the card when you need it. Night bus “Nightline” (blue sign at the stop).

Bus – Reliable and punctual, with several very useful routes for visitors, sometimes sporadic or non-existent on weekends. Tickets can bought from the driver or from the Trafik . Validate on boarding.

Night Bus – Especially useful for outer areas. Main hubs for night buses are located at Schwedenplatz, Schottentor and Oper. Bicycle – Bicycles can be taken free of charge on S-Bahn and U-Bahn carriages marked with a bike symbol. The city also runs a City Bike scheme, with bike stands scattered throughout the city.

Taxi – Taxis are reliable and relatively cheap by Western European standards. Taxis are easily found at train stations and taxi stands all over the city, or just flag them down on the street. T +43 1 31300, T +43 1 40100.

E S S E N T I A

USEFUL WEBSITES www.wien.info

Tourist Info Vienna – information, hotels, booking, events and special interest.

www.falter.at

City magazine – restaurant and entertainment listings and special interest.

www.unlike.net

Special-interest city magazine.

www.gayinvienna.com

First English website that caters exclusively to lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, intersexual tourists in Vienna.

www.insiderei.com

Smart city guide – have a look at the A-List. Only in German.

www.diestadtspionin.at

L S

Nice city portal for women.

www.7tm.at

7tm is a platform that presents fashion and design shops in and around the 7th district of Vienna and focuses on local businesses and retailing.

www.wienforwomenonly.at

Beautiful city guide for women only.

theviennastore.bigcartel.com

The Viennastore sells kitsch and cliché-free souvenirs, always with a reference to Vienna, but beyond the snowglobes, Klimt and Mozart.

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I M P R I

City Talk: The Mayor of Vienna meets Song Contest host – ESC Guide: Highlights of the Grand Prix

City of Vienna – proud Host City of

Leiwåndes Wean

Media Owner, Publisher Alba Communications GmbH, albacommunications.at (Reinhold Gmeinbauer, Alexandra Seyer), Wipplingerstraße 20, 1010 Wien in cooperation with the City of Vienna and the Vienna Tourist Board

T PORTRAITS Musicians, artists, designers

CATEGORIES From Vienna Allstars to Freaky Corners

Responsible for Content brand unit GmbH, brand-unit.com (Albert Handler, Andreas Oberkanins, Ulrike Tschabitzer-Handler), Gumpendorfer Straße 56, 1060 Wien; Insider Publishing GmbH, insiderei.com (Robert Kropf, Petra Percher), Seidlgasse 2/14, 1030 Wien

TIPS Where the locals go

EXPRESSIONS Viennese for Beginners

Vienna’s Voice Cover Photography Christoph Pirnbacher Klaus Vyhnalek Maria Ziegelböck

Rise Like a Phoenix Conchita Wurst on the most exciting year of her life Merci, Chérie The lyrics of Udo Jürgens’s Song Contest hit to sing along

Editor-in-Chief Petra Percher

AnnABlaU, cédrickaub, Jengemoon Choi, Joe Clark, dimitriosvellis.com, dpa Picture Alliance / picturedesk.com, Harald Eisenberger, Claudio Farkasch (Lichtschalter.tv), Lukas Gansterer, glenfordnunez.com, Manfred Grübl, Herta Hurnaus, KHM mit MVK und ÖTM, Sabin Klimpt, Stephan Lemke für 25hours Hotels, Life Ball/Jürgen Hammerschmid, www.neni.at, Maciej Palucki, Christoph Pirnbacher, Inge Prader, Problembär Records, Patrick Pulsinger, Susanne Stemmer, Strandbar Herrmann, Udo Titz, Pressebildagentur Votava, WienTourismus/Peter Rigaud & Christian Stemper, Maria Ziegelböck, Bildagentur Zolles KG, Gerald Zugmann

Creative Direction Albert Handler

Sources Glossary Maria Hornung – Sigmar Grüner: Wörterbuch der Wiener Mundart 2. Auflage 2002 (2,00), © ÖBV Pädagogischer Verlag, Wien 1998, © ÖBV & HPT VerlagsgmbH & Co. KG, Wien 2002; Robert Sedlaczek: Wörterbuch des Wienerischen, © 2011 Haymon Taschenbuch, Innsbruck Wien; Wikipedia

Art Direction Alexander Nußbaumer

Translation & Proofreading Geri Ross

Graphic Design Vanessa Buchschacher

Print printed by Holzhausen&Gerin with LEUV technology (pollutionfree printing)

Design brand unit – network for branding, design and content brand-unit.com

Managing Editor & Production Management Andreas Oberkanins Production Assistance Judith Zwanzger Authors Wojciech Czaja, Klemens Gindl, Nina Glatzel, Roland Graf, Christian Qualtinger, Maria Schoiswohl, Barbara Seemann, Marie-Theres Stremnitzer Commissioned Photography Klaus Vyhnalek, Lina Kröncke Drawings Christian Qualtinger

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Stock/press images

Disclaimer The content of this magazine has been compiled with meticulous care and to the best of our knowledge. However, we cannot assume any liability for the up-to-dateness, completeness or accuracy. Copyright The content and works published in this magazine are governed by the copyright laws of Austria. Any duplication, processing, distribution or any form of utilisation beyond the scope of copyright law shall require the prior written consent of the publisher and the authors.

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K C A R T T S A F E H T N O ÂŠ Wiener Linien, Okt. 2014

12pts

12pts G L O S S A RY

Viennese for Beginners

W O R D O

The Viennese language sometimes gets confused with a chavvy, crude form of German, which is a great pity. Many words and idiosyncracies of the Viennese dialect have their roots in the Old and Middle High German. At the same time, linguistic influences from former Hapsburg crown lands, different demographic groups as well as thousands of immigrants (Slavs, Czechs, Hungarians, Italians, Jews, French, Russians etc.) are unmistakable. For an authentic Viennese pronunciation, the following terms have to be pronounced somewhat nasally (through the nose) and somewhere between High German and a proper dialect. Have fun exploring some language basics of this year’s ESC host city and enjoy the “Wiener Schmäh” – which sometimes seems rude, but is never intentionally mean.

F M O U T H

jmdn. aufknüpfen – jmdn. aufhängen – to hang sb., to string sb. up / NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH: anbandeln – 1. mit jemandem flirten

2. mit jemandem Streit suchen – 1. to flirt 2. to ask for trouble

aufzwicken – eine Person für sich gewinnen, mit der Absicht, eine sexuelle Beziehung einzugehen – to pick sb. up, to poach sb. ausstöh’n – ausstellen – to exhibit, to put on display Austropop – seit Ende der 1960er Jahre geläufige Bezeichnung für Popmusik aus Österreich, früher hauptsächlich für Musik mit Texten im österreichischen Dialekt. – term for pop music from Austria, which came into use in the late 1960s; in former times mainly referring to lyrics sung in Austrian dialect. Bådewaschl – Bademeister: Aufseher in einem öffentlichen Bad

– life saver, pool attendant

Biedermeier – Zeitspanne von 1815 (Wiener Kongress) bis 1848

(Beginn der bürgerlichen Revolution). Oft mit dem Etikett „hausbacken“ oder „konservativ“ versehen. Als typisch gilt die Flucht ins Idyll und ins Private. – historical period between 1815 (Congress of Vienna) and 1848 (beginning of European revolutions). Oftentimes associated with a conservative, stuffy attitude. One characteristic is the escape into an idyllic private world.

Cobenzl – Ausflugsberg im 19. Wiener Gemeindebezirk Döbling. Benannt nach Graf Philipp von Cobenzl, eigentlich Latisberg und Reisenberg. – popular mountain for excursions in the 19th district, Döbling. Named after Count Philipp von Cobenzl. Official names are Latisberg and Reisenberg. Eier im Glas – klassische Wiener Frühstücksspeise: zwei weich

gekochte, geschälte Eier, die in einem Glas serviert werden. – Viennese breakfast classic: two soft-boiled, peeled eggs, served in a glass.

Eitrige – Käsekrainer: mit Käse durchsetzte Wurst beim Würstelstand – cheese kransky: cheese stuffed kransky sausage at the sausage stand, (literally: pus-filled) / compare: “A Eitrige und a Krokodü mit an Buckel und an 16-er Blech!” – eine Käsekrainer und eine Essiggurke mit einem Brotscherz [Brotkanten, Anschnitt, von ital. scorza: Rinde] und einer Dose → Ottakringer Bier – “A pus-filled one and a crocodile with a hunch and a 16th-tin!”: a cheese kransky and a gherkin with a crust and a can of → Ottakringer beer. (Ausreib-)Fetzen – [ausreiben: mit der Bürste oder einem groben

Tuch reinigen; Fetzen: abgerissenes Stück Stoff, Papier etc.] Putzlappen – [ausreiben: to clean with a brush or a piece of cloth; Fetzen: tattered piece of cloth, paper etc.] cleaning rag / compare: Fetzentandler – [tandeln: Zeit vergeuden, Handel betreiben] (Alt-)Kleiderhändler → Tand – [tandeln = to waste time, to carry out a trade] second-hand clothier → Tand

gach – jäh, schnell hereinbrechend – sudden, abrupt / compare: auf de Gache – auf die Schnelle, plötzlich – suddenly, in a trice, quickie / also compare: gachblond – weißblond, wasserstoffblond – bottle blonde, peroxide blonde / NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH: an Gachen kriagn – zornig werden – to fly into a fury

Beisl – [wurde früher von jiddisch bájiss: Haus, bzw. von böhmisch hampejz: Hundehütte, Kegelbahn, Bordell abgeleitet] einfaches Gasthaus, Wirtshaus – [derived either from Yiddish bájiss: house, or Bohemian hampejz: dog house, ninepins alley, brothel] a simple pub, inn

g’schneizt und g’kamplt – [schneizen: schneuzen; kampeln: käm-

Bellevue Wiese – berühmtes Wiener Ausflugsziel beim → Cobenzl.

schiedlichen Rebsorten aus einem Weingarten zusammensetzt. Im Gegensatz zur Cuvée werden hier mehrere Rebsorten zusammen angebaut und nach der gemeinsamen Lese auch gemeinsam zu Traubenmost gekeltert und vergoren. – special Viennese wine, a field blend produced from different grape varieties interplanted in the same vineyard. After the wine harvest, the grape varieties are also processed into must, which makes it different to Cuvée.

Hier kann man auf den Spuren von Sigmund Freud wandeln. Der berühmte Wiener Begründer der Psychoanalyse soll hier viel Zeit verbracht haben. Ein Gedenk-Stein erinnert an ihn. – a famous Viennese excursion destination → Cobenzl. Follow the traces of Sigmund Freud. It is said that the famous Viennese founder of psychoanalysis spent a lot of time here. A memorial stone pays homage to him.

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men] wie aus dem Ei gepellt, gewaschen und gestriegelt – [schneizen: to blow one’s nose; kampeln: to comb] spick and span, dressed up to the nines (literally: with blown nose and combed hair)

Gemischter Satz – spezieller Wiener Wein, der sich aus unter-

12pts grean – grün – green habern – [von jiddisch haver oder chaver: Freund, Kumpan, Zechbruder abgeleitet] essen, kräftig zulangen – [derived from Yiddish haver or chaver: friend, buddy, drinking pal] to eat, to devour, to munch Häupel, Häuptel, Happel – (Vkl. von Haupt) Kopf einer Gemüse-

pflanze (z.B. Kraut) – (diminutive form of head) head of a vegetable plant (e.g. cabbage) / NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH: Häupl, Dr. Michael – Bürgermeister und Landeshauptmann von Wien – Mayor and Governor of Vienna Herr Ober – (eigentl. Oberkellner) Kellner – waiter, garçon Heuriger – 1. Wein der letzten Lese 2. Lokal, in dem vor allem

heuriger Wein und einfache Speisen angeboten werden – 1. wine from the last harvest 2. tavern that primarily serves wine from the last harvest and down-to-earth dishes / don’t mix up with: Heurige – Erdäpfel (Kartoffel) der diesjährigen Ernte, neue Kartoffel – potatoes from this year's harvest, early potatoes Himmel – 1. Himmel 2. berühmtes Wiener Ausflugsziel beim

→ Cobenzl: Himmelwiese am Pfaffenberg [Pfaffe: ugs. für Pfarrer, Priester] – 1. sky, heaven 2. famous Viennese excursion destination at the → Cobenzl: Himmel meadow at the Pfaffenberg [Pfaffe: coll. for pastor, priest]

Kaffeehaus – Gaststätte, in der insbesondere Kaffee ausgeschenkt wird und Zeitungen und Magazine aufliegen (bei exakter Namensnennung wird hingegen das Wort Café verwendet: “Wir gehen ins Café Sperl.”). – coffeehouse, serves speciality coffees and offers a wide range of newspapers and magazines (when referring to a particular Kaffeehaus, use the word Café, e.g. “We're going to Café Sperl.”). Krawäu – Krawall, Lärm – noise, turmoil / compare: Krawäukathl – [Kathl: Katharina] lärmende, streitsüchtige Frau – noisy, quarrelsome woman / also compare: Krawäuschani – [Schani, von franz. Jean: Hans, Johann] lärmender, streitsüchtiger Mann – noisy, quarrelsome man L‘Amour-Hatscher – Musik für langsamen, engen Tanz – music for slow, close dancing / compare: L’Amour-Schmäh – einschmeichelnde

Annäherungsversuche → Schmäh – silky advances → Schmäh

påtschert – 1. unbeholfen 2. missglückt – 1. clumsy 2. unsuccessful, failed / compare: “Sei ned so påtschert!” – “Stell Dich nicht so an!” – “Don't act clumsily!” / also compare: a påtscherts Lebn – ein missglücktes Leben – a failed life picksüß – besonders süß – cloying raunzen – weinerlich klagen, nörgeln, dauernd unzufrieden sein – grumble, moan / compare: Raunzer – nörgelnder Mann – grumbling

man

Rotwelsch – Sammelbegriff für sondersprachliche Soziolekte

gesellschaftlicher Randgruppen auf der Basis des Deutschen, vor allem gebräuchlich als Synonym für Gaunersprache – umbrella term for German language varieties and sociolects of marginalised groups of society, especially used as a synonym for thieves' cant Schani – [Kurzform von Johann, Hans; in Anlehnung an franz. Jean]

1. Diener, Hilfskraft, Handlanger 2. Schankbursch, Kellner – [short form for Johann, Hans; based on French Jean] 1. servant, help, henchman 2. barman, waiter

Schanigarten – (eigentl. Giannis Garten) Benannt nach Johann

„Gianni“ Jakob Tarroni, der um 1750 die Erlaubnis erhielt, vor seinem Kaffeehaus am Wiener Graben Tische und Stühle aufstellen zu dürfen. – (actually Giannis Garten) Named after Johann “Gianni” Jakob Tarroni, who in 1750 got the permission to set up tables and chairs in front of his coffeehouse at the Wiener Graben. Schmäh – 1. Kunstgriff, billiger Trick, Schwindelei, Unwahrheit

2. unterhaltsame Redeweise, vor Geist und Witz sprühend – 1. shoddy trick, humbug, untruth 2. entertaining manner of speaking that is bubbling over with spirit and wit / compare: Wuchtel – 1. Süßspeise aus Hefeteig 2. dicke Frau 3. große Brust 4. Fußball 5. Ohrfeige 6. Scherz, Pointe – 1. dessert made of yeast dough 2. big woman 3. big bosoms 4. football 5. slap in the face 6. joke, punchline / also comare: a Wuchtel druckn – einen billigen Scherz machen – to make a cheap joke

Tand – 1. hübsches Ding ohne Wert, Krims-Krams 2. Trödel, Altwaren

leiwånd, leinwånd – (oft ohne Nasalierung) gut, ausgezeichnet, tüchtig – (typically without nasalisation) good, awesome, smart / compare: “Des is leiwånd.” – “Das ist hervorragend.” – “This is excellent.” Liptauer – [zu Liptau; von slowakisch Liptov, ungarisch Liptó (einer

Transdanubien – bezeichnet den Teil des Wiener Stadtgebietes jen-

Ottakring – 16. Wiener Gemeindebezirk – 16th municipal district

of Vienna

panieren – [von franz. paner: mit geriebenem Brot bestreuen] Fleisch,

Huhn, Fisch, Gemüse etc. vor dem Braten in Mehl wälzen, in geschlagenes Ei tauchen und schließlich mit Semmelbrösel bestreuen (z.B. ein paniertes Schnitzel) – [from French paner: coat with crumbed bread] to toss the meat, chicken, fish, vegetables etc. in flour, dip it into beaten egg and coat it with breadcrumbs, before frying it (e.g. a breaded escalope) / compare: die Gegner panieren – hoch besiegen (Sportlersprache) – to beat sb. hands down (sportman's slang) / also compare: paniert – betrunken – drunk

O R D O F M O

Simmering – 11. Wiener Gemeindebezirk – 11th municipal district

of Vienna

– 1. pretty object without value, bric-à-brac 2. junk, junk goods / compare: Tandlkramer – 1. Person, die sich mit unnützen Gegenständen beschäftigt oder nichts weiterbringt 2. Besitzer wertlosen Krams – 1. a person who is occupied with unnecessary things or does not get anywhere 2. owner of useless knick-knacks

Region in der nördlichen Slowakei) abgeleitet] Streichkäse aus Brimsen, Paprika und Kräutern – [derives from Slovakian Liptov, Hungarian Liptó (a region in the North of Slovakia)] cheese spread made of sheep’s milk cheese, pepper and herbs

U T H

seits der Donau, das sind der 21. und der 22. Wiener Gemeindebezirk (Floridsdorf, Donaustadt) – refers to the part of Vienna beyond the Danube, i.e. the 21st and the 22nd district of Vienna (Floridsdorf, Donaustadt)

Trottoir – Gehweg, Bürgersteig – pavement, sidewalk Tschechern – [aus dem jiddischen entnommener → Rotwelsch-

Ausdruck schecher: berauschendes Getränk] 1. viel Alkohol trinken, saufen 2. sich abmühen, hart arbeiten – [borrowed from Yiddish → Rotwelsch (thieves' cant) schecher: intoxicating beverage] 1. to drink a lot of alcohol, to booze 2. to toil away on sth., to work hard

vom åndern Ufa – homosexuell – homosexual Wurscht, Wuascht – 1. Wurst 2. Gummiknüppel der Polizei 3. Penis – 1. sausage 2. police truncheon 3. penis / don’t mix up with: wurscht, wuascht – egal, gleichgültig – indifferent

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I Thu, 14/05

Wed, 13/05

Tue, 12/05

Mon, 11/05

Lower Belvedere, Prinz Eugen-Straße 27, 1030 Wien, www.belvedere.at Together we will celebrate the most atmospheric and biggest traditional clothing party in Europe under the motto “beautiful, colorful, traditional – your country, your style!”. The dress code is “bring your own traditional clothes”: we would be delighted to welcome our guests in their national dress!

Eurowies’n N ight

Albertina Passage, Opernring/Operngasse, 1010 Wien, www.albertinapassage.at Be surprised by the extraordinary architecture of the Albertina Passage. All Song Contest artists are invited to join the Eurovision band for an improvised and spontaneous jam session!

Eurovision Jam N ight

U4, Schönbrunner Straße 222–228, 1120 Wien, www.u-4.at U4 is one of the most famous clubs in Vienna and a popular meeting place for the local music scene. All Song Contest artists are invited to join the Eurovision band for an improvised and spontaneous jam session!

Eurovision Jam N ight

Café Leopold, Museumsplatz 1, 1070 Wien, www.cafe-leopold.at Café Leopold is a popular and trendy cafe in the heart of the city where well-known DJs from the Austrian electronic music scene play amazing sets every week. Special act: electronic duo “Möwe”.

Eurovision St ar t N ight

The “Eurovision Nights” will take place in the first week of the Eurovision Song Contest 2015 (11 – 16 May), hosted at a different Viennese hotspot each night with a special Song Contest theme to showcase the diversity of Vienna’s nightlife.

Eurovision Nights

View from the world-renowned Burgtheater onto Vienna City Hall with the Eurovision Village.

Your personal guide for the ESC Vienna 2015

E S C 2 015

12pts

he “Eurovision Village” located in the heart of Vienna serves as a vibrant hub for this year’s Eurovision Song Contest festivities. The “Rathausplatz” offers a unique setting for the gettogether of fans, tourists and music lovers from all over the world and visitors can watch the three live shows on huge screens. Every day, the big stage in front of the venerable City Hall building hosts a wide range of appearances including live performances from participating countries and themed events such as “60 Years of Song Contest” or “A Tribute to Udo Jürgens” and, of course, the “Queen of Austria” Conchita Wurst. Further music highlights include performances by former Austrian Song Contest participants. National and international artists will make the “Eurovision Village” a unique experience every night – inspired by the greatest hits from 60 years of Song Contest history. The grand opening ceremony takes place on Sunday, May 17. One day later, on May 18, the “Eurovision Village” will officially kick off with a spectacular runway show under the motto “Fashion for Europe” – with emerging and re-

nowned fashion designers from many of the participating countries. Afterwards the “The Bad Powells” will perform their Song Contest show. Another unique feature of the “Eurovision Village” is “Hello Vienna – Welcome Europe”, a platform for the tourism, business, educational and infotainment sectors that offers visitors and media representatives a place to meet and celebrate with colleagues from different countries. It’s conceived as an event that combines elements of a world exposition and tourism fair centered upon various European destinations and set out to inspire thousands of guests and visitors. On May 23, the “Eurovision Village” will come to an end with the public screening of the Grand Final watched by up to 10,000 people on the “Rathausplatz” – a brilliant celebration of the 60th edition of the Eurovision Song Contest. The highlight of the final evening will be the presentation of the votes of the Austrian jury, live from the big stage at the Eurovision Village. Discover the Eurovision Village 2015 – a unique meeting place full of emotions!

Eurovision Village

H E LLO VI EN NA – WE LCOM E EU ROPE

Sat, 23/05

Mon, 18/05

Sun, 17/05

Sat, 16/05

Fri, 15/05

Eurovision Song Contest 2015

City Hall Square The Eurovision Village kicks off with a fashion show on Monday night, May 18 at 8:00 pm organised by FLASHED events. Building bridges with fashion – connecting cultures with fashion. With emerging fashion labels from many participating countries. Join this unique show: www.fashionforeurope.com

Fashion for Europe

City Hall Square The opening ceremony will take place in front of the Vienna City Hall on Sunday, May 17 at 6:00 pm. The longest red carpet in ESC history (130 metres) will be rolled out to welcome all delegates to the Eurovision Song Contest 2015.

O pening C eremony

Morning performance, Tickets: € 7 – € 60, www.wiener-staatsoper.at The Vienna State Opera invites you to an exclusive ESC morning performance on Sunday, May 17. World stars such as Plácido Domingo, Juan Diego Flórez, Conchita Wurst and an ensemble of musicians of the Vienna State Opera Orchestra and the Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra have already confirmed their participation. In addition, Eurovision Song Contest artists from various countries will perform at one of the world’s most famous opera houses.

The Vienna St at e O pera – Pop meet s O pera

Side Events

Pratersauna, Waldsteingartenstraße 135, 1020 Wien, www.pratersauna.tv Praterauna, a former sauna turned into a night club with two terraces and several dance floors, is an avid supporter of the international and local electronic music scene. Join the party and experience Europe’s biggest charity event of the year: the Life Ball will be broadcast on a big public screen.

Eurovision Li fe Ball N ight

Chaya Fuera, Kandlgasse 19-21, 1070 Wien, www.chayafuera.com Chaya Fuera is a trendy venue with club nights on weekends and live music performances during the week. All Song Contest artists are invited to join the Eurovision band for an improvised and spontaneous jam session!

Eurovision Jam N ight

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12pts U D O J Ü R G E N S (193 4 – 2 014)

Merci, Chérie

M E R C I , C H É R I E

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Merci Merci Merci Für die Stunden Chérie Chérie Chérie Uns're Liebe war schön So schön Merci, Chérie Sei nicht traurig, muss ich auch von Dir gehen. Adieu Adieu Adieu Deine Tränen tun weh So weh So weh Unser Traum fliegt dahin Dahin Merci, Chérie Weine nicht, auch das hat so seinen Sinn Schau nach vorn Nicht zurück! Zwingen kann man kein Glück

Denn kein Meer ist so wild wie die Liebe! Die Liebe allein! Nur die kann so sein So sein So sein Merci Merci Merci Für die Stunden Chérie Chérie Chérie Uns're Liebe war schön So schön Merci, Chérie So schön So schön Merci Chérie So schön So schön Merci Chérie Merci

From Vienna to Bratislava with the Danube Speedsters. The Twin City Liner has been operating between Vienna and Bratislava since 2006. Due to its huge success a second catamaran is in use since 2008 to connect the twin cities via waterway. The Twin City Liners commute up to 5 times a day between Vienna and Bratislava. Reservations and schedule: www.twincityliner.com facebook.com/wienholding www.wienholding.at

The holding company of the