France travel book by Aleksandra Przesmycka

2018

FRANCE TRAVEL SKETCHBOOK

NORD PAS DE CALAIS

BASSE NORMANDIE

HAUTE NORMANDIE

PICARDIE CHAMPAGNE ARDENNES

ILE DE FRANCE

ALSACE LORRAINE

BRETAGNE PAYS DE LOIRE POITOU CHARENTE

CENTRE

FRANCHE COMTE

BOURGOGNE

LIMOUSIN AUVERGNE

RHONE ALPES

AQUITAINE PROVENCE ALPES COTE DAZUR

MIDI PYRENNEES LANGUEDOC ROUSSILLON

CORSE

PARIS

39 MARSEILLE

05 PROVENCE 53 ARLES

CONTENT

NICE

LYON

CANNES

AVIGNON

TRAVEL CALENDAR July mon . tue.

wed.

thu.

fri.

sat.

sun.

-G. Flaubert

CELA REND MODESTE DE VOYAGER ON VOIT QUELLE PETITE PLACE ON OCCUPE DANS LE MONDE

monday

wednesday

tuesday

thursday

friday

saturday

sunday

monday

tuesday

wednesday

saturday

friday

sunday

thursday

tuesday

monday

thursday

wednesday

PARIS T

he number of historical facts about Paris is endless. The city is absolutely overflowing with history. From the grand landmarks, like the Louvre and Notre Dame, to the tiniest details, like a door handle or wall carving, everything has a backstory. First establishaed as a fishing village by the name of Lutetia, this 2,000-year-old city has blossomed into one of the most beautiful cities in the world, while still retaining strong links to its own history and traditions.

Neighborhoods

1. The 20 arrondissements in Paris start at the heart of the city and continue in numerical order in a spiral fashion, just like a snail or escargot! 2. Only a few timber houses, built in the 14th century, still exist in the Marais on Rue Francois Miron. 3. The two river islands Île-Saint-Louis and Île-de-la-Cité, as well as the rest of the 4th arrondissement, are the oldest areas of Paris. 4. The Marais was once was a swamp. It was drained and developed in the Middle Ages. 5. The Montparnasse district in the 14th arrondissement was home to writers (like Hemingway) and artists in the 1920s and 30s. Enjoying a meal at the Art Deco-style Brasserie La Coupole is a great place to get a feel for the era.

Metro

6. The Metro opened in Paris in 1900. 7. Each Metro stop in Paris has a historical theme. The names used and the style of the metro stop itself will sometimes clue you into the area’s past. The Arts and Métiers station is one of the most remarkable in the city! 8. Louise Michel, a Parisian anarchist of the late 1800s, is the only stop that’s named after a female.

Tour Eiffel

14. More than 100 artists submitted plans for a monument that would mark the entrance to the 1889 Worlds’ Fair. That’s how the Eiffel Tower came to be. 15. While Gustave Eiffel’s construction company was selected to build the monument, it was a structural engineer, Maurice Koechlin, who came up with the concept. 16. Construction on the Eiffel Tower started in 1887 and took two years to complete. 17. When the Eiffel Tower was complete it was the tallest structure in the world. It held that title until 1930 when the Chrysler Building was built in New York City. 18. The Eiffel Tower was supposed to be temporary. City officials planned to tear it down in 1909 but decided against it. Hitler ordered the monument’s destruction too, but the order was never carried out. 14

Notre Dame

10. Construction of the Notre Dame Cathedral started in 1163 and took almost two centuries to build. It was consecrated as complete in 1345. 11. The bell in the Notre Dame Cathedral weighs 13 tons and is called Emmanuel. 12. Everyone from royalty to residents helped construct the cathedral. Some donated money, others donated their time and labor and it was considered a communal effort. This is why there is no single architect named, but rather many, some known and some anonymous. 13. The cathedral has one of the oldest organs, dating back to 1330, which complements its massive church bells.

Arc de Triomphe

19. Napoleon wanted a grand triumphal arch to celebrate his troops, the Grand ArmĂŠe, but construction was held up several times and the monument wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t finished until 1836. Napoleon died in 1821. 20. The walls of the Arc list the names of 558 French generals and the major battles of the Napoleonic Wars.

Maison de Verre Architect: Pierre Chareau (a furniture and interiors designer), Bernard Bijvoet (a Dutch architect) and Louis Dalbet (craftsman metalworker). Year: 1932 Description: Built as a modern house for Dr. Dalsace, a member of the French Communist Party who played a significant role in both anti-fascist and cultural affairs. Jean Cocteau, Yves Tanguy, Joan Miró and Max Jacob, among others, regularly frequented his salon. It’s built out of steel and glass to achieve an approach of three targets “honesty of materials, variable transparency of forms, and juxtaposition of “industrial” materials”. Although it’s a private building, one can appreciate some of this elements from the exterior. 31 Rue Saint-Guillaume

Basketball court Le cylindre sonore Architect: Bernard Leitner Year: 1923 Description: In general, the “Parc de la Villette” park (Bernard Tschumi) is a point of interest for architects -including the controversial Philharmonie de Paris by Jean Nouvel. However, this little spot by Bernard Leitner is definitely the best point of the park. Partially hidden from the bamboos, Le Cylindre Sonore stands with his concrete double walls in a lower level respect of the bordering alleys, as an excavated hole voluntary delimiting the rest of the park. Once descended with a long staircase, one can experience a contemplative listening in a true resonating chamber, potentiated by three loudspeakers hidden behind eight perforated concrete walls.

Ill-Studio and Pigalle have returned to a basketball court they previously overhauled with bold patterns, replacing primary colours with gradients of blue, pink, purple and orange. “The anatomy of the human body as well as its performances have had a lifelong relationship with art,” the team said. “Since the legacy of Greek and Roman antiquity, sport is represented as a dominant idea within the beauty of an era.” 17 Rue Duperré, 75009 Paris, France

Allée du Belvédère and Allée du Zenith 18

Polidor

This is a legendary Paris bistro where luminaries like Hemingway and Andre Gide once occupied the tables. Open since the mid-19th century, this is one of the rare places in the overpriced Odeon area where one can find solid traditional cuisine that’s not exorbitant. Lunch menus available for 9 or 18 Euros (approx. $12-$24). Polidor’s homemade pumpkin soup, tarts, and cakes are especially recommended. Credit cards not accepted. 41 Rue Monsieur le Prince, 75006

Chartier

This legendary Belle Epoque restaurant draws constant crowds for its elegant turnof-the-century dining room, gregarious wait staff, and, above all, the inexpensive, traditional, and decent fare. The menu is classic (beef bourguignon, sauerkraut, sea bream, etc.). Sides are as low as 2 Euros/ approx. $2.70, main dishes are about $8$10, and three courses can be enjoyed for approx. $20-$30. Arrive early: this one’s very popular with tourists and locals. 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009

Pizzeria Popolare

Miznon

Chef Eyal Shani’s original Miznon restaurant is in Tel Aviv, but for his second outpost he chose Paris. Again, it’s hard to get in but the food is worth the wait. The steak and egg pita is only €9.50 and the famous roasted cauliflower head just €6.50. Everything is fresh and there is also free tea if you eat in. 22 Rue des Ecouffes, 75004

Jixiao’s Buns

Good Asian food can be hard to come by in Paris, but Jixiao’s Buns is one of the best. Its standout dish is its crispy pan fried “buns” filled with meat and broth. Four buns cost just €6 (try the pork and corn); you even get a tiny straw to slurp up the broth. Also on the menu are noodle dishes starting at €7. This is a takeaway window joint, but there are a few seats outside where you can enjoy your buns hot and fresh from the pan. 91 Rue Beaubourg, 75003

The Hood Paris

The Hood Paris is a young, hip café that does food and coffee really well. Its motto is “The Hood is yours”, meaning that it’s a place where you can freely come as you are. The food menu was created by Khanh-Ly Huynh, a talented French-Vietnamese chef who won MasterChef France in 2015, and – I stress again – the coffee is excellent. there is a killer food menu with Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches (with egg, pork, chicken, or tofu) for only €7. Vegetables are pickled inhouse and the homemade sriracha sauce is something else. 80 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 75011

Pizza Popolare is extra special thanks to the marinara pizza that costs just €4 and is delicious. All of the locations are very popular so expect a wait if you don’t want to line up before opening. 111 Rue Réaumur, 75002

Alcazar

L’Alcazar, l’idée d’une grande maison, qui reçoit dans un esprit nouveau, une brasserie revisité, un concept simple une table chic, à l’ambiance conviviale, vous servant des plats utilisant des produits frais de terroirs Français dans un décor idyllique. 62 Rue Mazarine, 75006

Others Les pâtes vivantes - fresh pasta/asian

Rose Bakery

- Sweets in Paris 24 Rue de Sévres – 75007 Paris

Tea Room au Bon Marché East/Ober/ Pink Mamma - italian cuisine

"You belong to me and all of Paris belongs to me and I belong to this notebook and this pencil ." E.Hemingway

La Chapelle Expiatoire Tucked away in the bustling shopping district around Boulevard Haussmann is a secret garden that is as historically significant as it is tranquil. In it, you’ll find La Chapelle Expiatoire, which was designed in 1816 by Pierre François Léonard Fontaine and Charles Percier as a memorial to Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. The executed royal couple were initially buried here on the site of the old Madeleine Cemetery before being reinterred at the Basilica Saint-Denis. La Chapelle Expiatoire, 29 Rue Pasquier, 75008 Paris, France, +33 1 44 54 19 33

Jardin Alpin Most Parisians and tourists who visit the Jardin des Plantes are content with its zoo, tropical greenhouses, and Museum of Natural History. Few know that in all of these popular sites is a garden that allows you to experience a mountain stroll in the very center of one of Europe’s biggest cities. The Jardin Alpin was created in 1640 and has over 2,000 plant species found in France’s highest ranges. Jardin Alpin, 75005 Paris, France, +33 1 40 79 56 01

Khayma Overlooking some of the most spectacular sights in the city on the rooftop of the Generator Hostel (one of a growing number of design-oriented, low-cost places to stay in Paris) is Khayma. Freshly opened in April 2017, it offers a menu of classic and signature cocktails and Middle Eastern cuisine. The hostel is also only a stone’s throw from the trendy stores, restaurants, and bars of the Canal Saint-Martin district. Khayma, Generator Hostels, 9-11 Place du Colonel Fabien, 75010 Paris, France, +33 1 70 98 84 00 Parc Rives De Seine, Voie Georges Pompidou, 75004 Paris, France.

Little Red Door A little red hidden bar that plays on the deliciously elitist idea that only a select few will find the real red door. What happens once you find the key? A welcoming, softly lit loft opens up to you, drawing you toward its backlit bar or perhaps a free table where your hedonistic, cocktail lover’s curiosity will be more than satisfied by the discreet charm of this upscale Parisian establishment. Dare to open that door... 60 Rue Charlot, 75003 Paris, France

La Boumette

Les soirées sont un incontournable de l’été. Elles révolutionnent les soirées parisiennes en apportant une ambiance survoltée dans un lieu ultra dingue : l’Opéra R ! Cette année, on aura la chance de siroter son cocktail dans les jardins cachés et sur la terrasse végétalisée by COINTREAU. Ambiance champêtre à nous faire tourner la tête ! 1 Place Jacques Rouche, 75009

Le papa cabane

- outdoor place Paris Bercy

STREETS AND THEIR SIDEWALKS THE MAIN PUBLIC SPACES OF A CITY, ARE ITS MOST VITAL ORGANS.” - J.Jakobsen-

ugdunum, the city of lights, the city of silk… Many names for the one and only Lyon, the city in which the Ilymun conference was created 3 years ago. This historic town was created under the Roman rule in 43 BC and later became the capital of the Three Gauls. It was the capital due to its strategic position in the center of the Empire and on the two rivers: the Rhône and the Sâone. This helped the development of the town and it became the most cosmopolitan city of Gaul. After the collapse of the Roman Empire Lugdunum became Lyon, which stayed an important and influential city despite wars raging in what is nowadays France. Louis XI and François I, important French kings in the 15th century, developed the city further by making the town the center of the silk and spice trade. Formerly only the Italians had had

the right to weave silk. This lead to the creation of the “Canuts”, Lyonnais silk weavers who worked on the hill of the Croix Rousse, one of the two iconic Lyonnaise hills with the hill of Fourviere; these two hills separated the workers from the prayers. Fourviere had always been a place to communicate with the Gods as the Romans had installed an amphitheater there. Later on, in 1643, the plague was all over Europe. However, Lyon was miraculously saved, leading to the creation of the Basilica of Fourvière in honour to the Virgin Mary who is said to have spared the city. From that day a celebration to thank her takes place

every 8th of December in Lyon. During the Renaissance Lyon became one of the most influential printing centers in Europe and continued to expand, though at a lesser speed until the arrival of Napoleon the First who decided to use Lyonnais silk in European courts, boosting Lyonnaise economy. However in 1849 Canuts revolts occurred as big industries were taking the jobs away from the small silk weavers. This lead to the decline of Lyon in the 19th and early 20th century. Nonetheless, during World War Two Lyon was in the “Free” area after the German invasion and the town’s geography with many tunnels and secret passages made Lyon a center of the Resistance against the Nazi Regime. Nowadays Lyon is a cultural center of Europe. Contributing factors to this fame are the 8th of December Fête of the Lights, its well known gastronomy with the famous chefs and bouchons, museums and it’s architecture as 500 hectares of its city centre became a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1998.

La Confluence ou simplement Confluence est le nouveau secteur-sud du 2e arrondissement de Lyon, situé à l’extrémité sud de la presqu’île de Lyon, proche de la confluence du Rhône et de la Saône. Issu d’une ZAC depuis la fin des années 1990, le quartier est voué à de profondes mutations.

“

“The point of cities is multiplicity of choices." ” - Jane Jakobs

ou can’t come and visit Lyon without popping by an authentic “bouchon lyonnais”. This is the absolute must-do. Unfortunately, it’s not easy for foreigners to find them or even recognized them fromt the other restaurants. But worry not, Lyonresto will tell you all you need to know. First of all, you can spot a “bouchon” by his decoration : red and white tablecloth, wood, vintage furnitures, etc. When it comes to the food, just a glance at the menu should tell you whether or not you’re in a “bouchon” : only typical dishes from Lyon. “What are those typical dishes ?” you may ask. Quenelles (pike), tête-de-veau (calf ’s head), cervelle de canuts (sort of cheese), pâté en croûte (cooked meat inside puff pastry), tarte aux pralines (praline pie), etc. To make things easier for you, we have established a list of the best authentic “bouchon lyonnais” that you just can’t miss !

Le p’tit bouchon Two charming and adorable women are at the head of this typical “bouchon lyonnais”. On the menu, you will only find classical dishes from Lyon, exclusively made with love and fresh products. The place is heartwarming and full of old and soulful objects. 100% authentic ! There’s even a pretty patio for the good days. We just love it !

Le Poêlon d’Or had only have talented and famous chefs in its kitchen in 100 years of existence. First, there was Marie Danièle, a renowned “Mère Lyonnaise”. Today, Yann Lalle is the new chef and he lives up to the expectations ! He traveled around the world and worked with a lot of other chefs, holders of a Michelin star. The restaurant is simply gorgeous : big mirrors, ancient ceiling, vintage furnitures... Everything smells of authenticity, even the food ! And, yes, the quenelles are homemade, and that changes everything. You can trust us on this. If you still have room for a little sugary treat, then you should absolutely try the praline pie. 100% Lyon !

Chez Paul This “bouchon” is really the best for a first-timer. The decoration of the place recounts Lyon’s history. Here, you get to sit next to complete strangers and pass around plates of food. This is exactly what a “bouchon” is meant to do : make you feel like home. The recipes have been passed on from generation to generation. On the men : delicious typical dishes and homemade desserts. Yummy !

Initiation au jargon lyonnais : Le mâchon lyonnais

L’andouillette

Avis aux amateurs, le mâchon lyonnais est le brunch à la lyonnaise. La cochonnaille, les tripes, et toute la tradition lyonnaise, servie à des heures très matinales. À l’origine le mâchon était le repas traditionnel que les canuts partageaient à l’aube, après une longue nuit de travail, un moment de partage et de convivialité autour d’une bouteille de Beaujolais ou de Maconnais. Aujourd’hui certains bouchons le proposent sur réservation ou pour des évènements spéciaux, les gourmets ne seront pas déçus.

Dans la tradition lyonnaise, l’andouillette est fabriquée uniquement à partir de fraise de veau (un abat) et “embossée” dans un boyau que l’on appelle le suivant de rosette ou la robe. Elle est cuite dans un bouillon puis panée ou cuisinée au vin blanc et au four et se déguste bien chaude. Attention, si la chair de l’andouillette est autre chose que du veau, l’andouillette n’est pas lyonnaise.

Le pot lyonnais Dans les bouchons à Lyon, le vin est servi dans des “pot”, une bouteille en verre à fond épais d’une contenance de 46cl. La contenance peut être plus petite et le pot s’appelera alors “une fillette”.

La quenelle La quenelle lyonnaise est préparée à base de farine de semoule ou de blé, d’oeufs, de brochet (ou autres poissons), ayant la forme d’un rouleau et pochée dans l’eau. Elle est généralement servie avec une sauce bisque d’écrevisse ou une sauce nantua, et gratinée au four.

Les gratons

Le tablier de sapeur

Les petites choses croustillantes que l’on vous amène à l’apéro dans les bouchons, sont ce qu’on appelle des gratons. Ce sont de petits morceaux de gras de porc frits et salés. Il sont issus de la fonte des morceaux gras de porc où l’on ne garde que la viande. Les gratons sont similaires aux rillettes mais en plus ferme et peuvent être déclinés avec du gras de canard.

Toujours à base de fraise de veau, le tablier de sapeur diffère dans la manière dont il est cuisiné. Cet abat est coupé en plaques de 10cm et pané. Cuite au beurre, elle est servie dorée et croustillante dans les bouchons lyonnais.

MARSEILLE “A house is a machine for living in." Le Corbusier

round 600 BC Greek mariners founded Massilia, a trading post, at what is now Marseille’s Vieux Port. In the 1st century BC, the city lost out by backing Pompey the Great rather than Julius Caesar, whose forces captured Massilia in 49 BC and directed Roman trade elsewhere. Massilia stayed a free port, remaining the last Western centre of Greek learning before falling into ruin until its revival in the early 10th century by the counts of Provence. Marseille became part of France in the 1480s, but retained its

rebellious streak. Its citizens embraced the Revolution, sending 500 volunteers to defend Paris in 1792. Heading north, they sang a rousing march recently composed in Strasbourg and ever after dubbed La Marseillaise – now France’s national anthem. Trade with North Africa escalated after France occupied Algeria in 1830, and after the 1869 opening of the Suez Canal. During WWII Marseille was bombed by the Germans and Italians in 1940, and by the Allies in 1943–44. The English spelling, Marseilles (pronounced the same), is passing out of use. Marseille is one of Europe’s largest and most important ports, and is burgeoning with myriad expansion projects including a redevelopment of its docklands. Just three hours from Paris by TGV, it’s arguably France’s city most on the rise.

Vanille et Noire Mythical black ice cream made with vanilla and seasalt. Its maker, Nicolas Decitre, won’t reveal the recipe, but it’s said to get its colouring from algae. Whether that’s true or not, it’s sensational.

Les Navettes des Accoules At bakery Les Navettes des Accoules I try navettes, biscuits shaped like little boats, local to Marseille, that are made without yeast and flavoured with fleur d’orange. I buy bags of these as well as cucciole – crunchy, wine-scented biscuits from Corsica.

Viaghji di Fonfon Also in the Vallon is Viaghji di Fonfon, which does wellpriced wine, meat terrines, potted prawns and roasted vegetables from between €5 and €7 a dish. There are a few tables, but you can take cushions and plonk them by the harbour outside.

L’Escale Marine Also at the waterfront here is L’Escale Marine (22 quai du Port, 00 33 49 191 6742), a café and bar where shelves are lined with Provençal specialities, and outside tables are busy with punters sipping La Cagole, the city’s beer.

La cantine de Nour d’Égypte «Une cuisine originale et savoureuse et un brunch complet pas cher le week-end.»

If you’re a Le Corbusier and 50s fan,

Le Ventre de l’Architecte is the place for a meal after you’ve toured the vast complex. It’s on the 3rd floor of Le Corbusier’s Radiant City and comes complete with 1950s iconic furniture from the likes of Jacobsen. It’s a good setting for modern, inventive cooking. It’s in the hotel which is worth looking at as a place to stay. La Cite Radieuse 280 Boulevard Michelet Tel.: 00 33 (0) 4 91 16 78 23

Étang de Vaccarès According to a recent interview with Michael Danson, a specialist in extremophile bacteria from Bath University, the colour is the product of “a salt-loving organism Dunaliella salina”. He expanded,

“They produce a red pigment that absorbs and uses the energy of sunlight to create more energy, turning the water pink.”

"Fais de ta vie un rêve, et d'un rêve, une réalité." - Antoine de Saint Exupery

AVIGNON L

ocated in the lush vineyards of the Rhone Valley, the ancient walled city and university town of Avignon is rich in history, artistic brilliance, and Provencal life. From churches and chapels to film festivals and street musicians, Avignon was named the European Capital of Culture in 2000, and the city has been one of France’s major artistic centers for centuries. Whether you’re exploring the scenic waterways of Provence on our Roi Soleil (Sun King) or Le Phenicien barges, Avignon’s mix of culture, gastronomy, world-class wine, and UNESCO World Heritage Sites create a memorable travel experience. The Palace of the Popes and Other Historic Attractions When the popes moved from Rome in the Middle Ages, the city of Avignon became the capital of Christendom. This is illustrated in the churches, chapels, convents, and ornately decorated buildings and monuments you’ll find in Avignon’s old town and main tourist drag. The Palais de Popes (Palace of Popes) is the grandest and most opulent of the religious attractions from the Middle Ages. Built in the 14th century, the Palace of Popes sits at the highest point in Avignon, a white granite majesty that rivals St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome.

Originally built between 1350 and 1370, Avignon’s ramparts, or protective walls, give the city its defining architectural aesthetic. Within the walls there’s a wealth of museums, 17th and 18th century mansions, and botanical gardens. The ramparts were restored in the 19th century; don’t expect to see Sur le Point d’ Avignon is a famous 15th century French nursery-rhyme that commemorates Avignon’s Saint-Benezet Bridge. “Sure le Point d’ Avignon, L’on y danse, l’on danse.” Translation: On the bridge of Avignon/ we all dance there/ we all dance there. In other words, don’t be shy about breaking into a folk dance as you walk across this celebrated viaduct. And don’t be surprised if you see other tourists dancing as well. In Pisa, tourists snap photos of one another holding up th Leaning Tower; in Avignon, tourists snap pictures of each other dancing on the Saint-Benezet Bridge.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Not until we are lost do we begin to find ourselves." H.D.Thoreau

"The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes ." - M. Proust

ARLES M

odern Arles is a beautiful city whose light inspired the likes of Van Gogh. His famous Cafe Terrace at Night was painted in Place du Forum in 1888 while he resided here. Situated at the start of the Rhône river delta, it is ancient Arles, however, that takes center stage. The Romans took Arles in 123 B.C. and made it an important port city. Its importance was secured when Arles sided with Julius Caesar in his battle with Pompey for control of the Roman Empire. Its most prominent ruins date back to this time. The Arles Ampitheater, prominently situated in the center of town, is the most popular destination in Arles. This two-tier Roman coliseum is still used today to host events such bull-fighting, theater, and concerts. Built in 90 AD, it has a capacity of 20,000 spectators. At a size of 136m x 107m, it was the 12th largest coliseum of the Roman Empire (and not all that much smaller than the Coliseum in Rome).

The Roman Theater, known as Théâtre antique d’Arles, was also built near the end of the 1st Century by Julius Caesar. Only two columns remain of its once magnificent two story stage. The 33 rows hold up to 10,000 spectators. Unlike its neighbor The Amphitheater, the Roman Theater suffered serious decline during the Middle Ages when it was mined for its marble. Despite significant deterioration of the original Theater, it is still used today for concerts and events.

PROVENCE

Located at the southern end of the Plateau de Vaucluse, Roussillon affords incredible views over the Luberon valley. Be sure to walk up through the Belfry to the fortified area of the village and pause at the orientation table to get your bearings. Market – Thurs. mornings The Beckett Festival – July

Goult is a bit of an underdog compared to the other, somewhat more famous, Provence villages. But it’s one of the must-see villages in Provence! It’s authentic in its beauty, and due to being a little lesser-known, it doesn’t play into the tourist card like many other villages. Here you can wander into the old village – an unspoilt and tranquil place – past pastel-coloured houses and leafy squares. Be sure to follow the signs to take in all the key sights, they’ll eventually lead you to the reconstituted Jerusalem Mill, where you’ll find an amazing view of the valley.

Goult

Rousillon

There’s no mistaking why Roussillon deserves a spot on this list. Officially named one of France’s most beautiful villages, it lives up to its title with grace. Roussillon’s unique colour scheme of rusty red and muted orange can be attributed to the rich ochre deposits found in the land surrounding the village. Once an important economic source for the region, today the ochre mines bring wealth to the area in another way – with tourism! Roussillon is famous for its magnificent red cliffs and ochre quarries, rich in hematite (the mineral form of iron oxide) that imparts these deep red and yellow shades. The former ochre mine has been mapped out for an easy walk and it’s an absolutely breathtaking experience walking through the deep canyons and marvelling at the shapes etched into the earth – first by industry, and then by nature.

From the mill, follow the blue markers down a country lane to the Conservatoire des Terrasses de Cultures de Goult. It’s a fabulous way to experience the old farming techniques of the region, which largely revolved around planting crops in terraces. As you wander through the lovingly conserved 5ha garden you’ll feel as though you’ve been transported back in time.

Market – Thurs. mornings The Fete du Miel - July

You could easily spend an entire day (or more) discovering Cassis. The beautiful beaches are perfect for a morning swim, the cafe-lined quai is an ideal spot for people watching, and the old town lanes are bursting with boutiques selling fine linens and local artisan’s creations. For the best views of the village, pull your car over (carefully!) on the side of the road as you approach from above. And once in the village, take a stroll behind the tourist office, along the pier, to see the pastel coloured buildings from another angle. Market – Wed. & Fri. mornings

Gordes played the role of a dreamy Provence village in the 2006 movie A Good Year. And it was a natural fit! It has all the old-world charm you’d expect of Provence, with the cobbled lanes and narrow passageways remaining much as they have through the ages. The village’s hillside location, coupled with an advantageous viewpoint means it’s very likely the most photographed village in Provence. Officially named one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France, it’s an iconic village that shouldn’t be missed on your Provence itinerary.

Gordes

Cassis

Often touted as one of the best villages to stay in Provence, I can certainly understand why visitors flock to Cassis. The only seaside village on this list, Cassis is certainly more commercial than some other villages, but the centre still manages to retain its charming village feel. Flanked by Cap Canaille on one side, and the mighty Calanques on the other, the tricky geographical location prevents it from becoming too overdeveloped. Instead, the surrounding hills are home to rows of ancient vines producing the famed wines of the region.

While you’re visiting Gordes, a visit to the 10th-century château that sits atop the village is a must-do. Inside you’ll find the Pol Mara museum that houses a selection of works by the former resident of Gordes. And nearby you’ll find two of the region’s most spectacular attractions – the Sénanque Abbey that is surrounded by blooming fields of lavender in the summer months. And le village des bories, a hamlet of stone dwellings not dissimilar to the better-known trulli of Puglia.

Market – Tue. mornings Concerts at the Théâtre des Terrasses – July & August

Market – Tue. mornings Lacoste Festival – July Votive Festival – July

Château de Lacoste (not to be confused with the amazing vineyard Château La Coste), dominates the village. It was in ruins when Cardin purchased it, and some castle walls have been left in disrepair, creating a jagged contrast against the sky. The renovated part is open to the public in July & August, and every July the castle hosts the Festival de Lacoste – a festival dedicated to dance, theatre and opera that typically showcases young and upcoming talent. During the rest of the year, you can visit the château by reservation only, but a popular option is to walk around the back of the château, where several contemporary sculptures frame the views over the Luberon.

The enchanting village of Lourmarin also belongs to the exclusive Most Beautiful Villages of France club. It’s a little different from the majority of the Luberon villages due to its plain, rather than perched location (plain as in level – there’s nothing plain about this village!). The narrow streets are lined with cafes where you can sit back and soak up the sunshine to a soundtrack of everyday Provençal life. With its colourful flower boxes and lovingly restored buildings, it’s a joy to wander around at leisure.

Loumarin

Lacoste

The village of Lacoste still looks much the same as it would have done when the scandalous Marquis de Sade lived here in the 18th century. The Marquis’ château is now owned by designer Pierre Cardin who also caused few ripples of unrest when he purchased the castle, along with 22 other properties in the village. But there’s no sign of any tension as you stroll around the enchanting streets of Lacoste, it really is one of the most beautiful villages in Provence.

Market – Fri. mornings Literary Festival – July-August

The Château de Lourmarin is also unique to this part of Provence. The haphazard shape of the castle is suggestive of its tumultuous past. It was built in three stages, spanning from the 12th to the 16th century, and evidence of the different styles is still apparent today. Take a tour of the castle, have a picnic in its grounds, or attend one of the concerts or exhibitions that take place throughout the summer months.

Market – Thurs. mornings Winegrowers’ Festival – July Les Musicales du Luberon – July-August

Market – Fri. mornings

Spreading out below Bonnieux is the fertile landscape that yields crops of olives, grapes and lavender. Perhaps pack a picnic and appreciate the bucolic scene from the beneath the cedars. Then to work off your indulgence head to the Forêt des Cèdres nearby, where you’ll find a range of walks for every fitness level (including a wheelchair accessible option).

One of the most well-preserved villages of Provence, Ménerbes shines as an example of a village that is both a beautiful place to visit and to live. The medieval streets are awash with a rugged beauty that’s accentuated by the landscape that surrounds it. Nostradamus once described Ménerbes as the “navire dans l’océan des vignes” (ship in the ocean of vines) – which is an accurate description of how the village appears to float on the treetops as you approach it from the North.

Menerbes

Bonnieux

It may not have the official title of most beautiful in France, but Bonnieux could be of the prettiest villages in Provence! From the ivy-covered façades to the way in which the houses cascade down the hillside, it’s a charming village overflowing with allure. The old town is petit, and best explored by foot. You’ll find some delicious looking treats in the boulangerie and can even experience first hand how bread is made traditionally in the bakery museum. Scale the stone staircase to reach the 12thcentury church that adorns the village and you’ll be rewarded with magnificent views of the Vaucluse Mountains, as well as the nearby villages of Gordes and Roussillon.

Ménerbes is an exquisite village that attracts holidaymakers from around the world in search of understated luxury in tune with nature. Given its location, it has an unsurprisingly strong wine culture. And in a quirky nod to this viticulture heritage, you can visit a corkscrew museum that is home to over 1,000 exhibits from around the world. The museum, which is privately owned, is located 2km from the village in the grounds of the Domaine de la Citadelle – a charming vineyard that’s open for tastings and tours. Ménerbes is another of the official Most Beautiful Villages in France.

Market – Sun. mornings

The Ansouis castle is privately owned but is open to the public (for a fee) in the afternoons from April to October. The exterior offers fantastic views of the countryside and stunning terraced gardens to explore. Inside, the exquisitely restored château is furnished with pieces from the 16th – 18th century, alongside fine tapestries and art. A short walk from the château you’ll find the Musee Extraordinaire, a quirky, family run museum full of curiosities both created and found by the owner, a painter and diver. Alternatively, the Musee des arts et des Metiers is located just outside the village in the grounds of a vineyard and offers you the chance to find out more about winemaking in the region.

The village of Rustrel is somewhat of a hidden gem in Provence. It’s not commonly touted as one of the best villages to visit in Provence, perhaps because of its small stature, but I think it most definitely deserves your attention. Quintessentially cute, the village streets lead to the central château that today houses the Mairie (mayor’s office). Nearby, you’ll find an old oil mill where (in summer) you can learn the traditional ways of extracting olive oil.

Rustrel

Ansouis

Yet another of France’s Most Beautiful Villages (there are 15 in total in Provence), Ansouis is a short drive from aforementioned Lourmarin. They share a similar geography, however, Ansouis is slightly raised, with a grand château sitting above the village houses. Criss-cross through the network of pretty streets and pause in the shaded village square before continuing up to the castle and the church, Eglise Saint-Martin. Make sure you pop inside the church – it has one of the most wonderfully unique interiors I’ve ever seen – it’s perfectly imperfect.

Market – Wed. mornings

Much like Roussillon, Rustrel is located next to a former ochre quarry. Much less developed than the ochre trail, the Colorado Provençal offers you the chance to explore the rust coloured canyons and pillars on your own time. Once you’re done, wander back to the village past the vineyards and lavender fields, taking the time to appreciate the beauty that surrounds you. Then enjoy lunch on a shaded terrace, or jump in the open air pool to cool down!

Festival des Alpilles (Music) – June – August Festival A-Part (Art) – July & August

Market – Wed. mornings

The Southern Luberon cradlesMérindol, and you can literally step out of the centre ville and onto one of the Grandes Randonnées (GR Trails) that lead into the mountainous landscape. Even if you’re not up for a big walk, it’s very much worth following the trail up to old Mérindol. There’s not much left to see of the village that was destroyed in religious wars, but you can visit the ruins of a Protestant church, and the view over the Durance and beyond is worth the effort!

Located in the rocky landscape of the Alpilles, rising up above the olive and almond trees, Les Baux-de-Provence is instantly recognised by the impressive ruined château that overshadows it. Les Baux shares the same brand of beauty as the nearby villages of the Luberon, while still managing to be uniquely intriguing. This hilltop village in Provence is bursting with ancient treasures, including the chapels, town hall and old hospital, and the tourism office provides a mapped route so you can discover them all at your leisure. The only drawback from its reputation as one of the best villages in Provence (and with being another of the Most Beautiful Villages of France), is that it has become more of a tourist spectacle than a true representation of Provençal living. That’s not to say you shouldn’t visit – it’s still very much worth your time.

Les Baux-deProvence

Merindol

Mérindol very nearly became our home when we were searching for a house in Provence. It’s one of those magical places where time seemingly stands still. In the evenings, when the deep blue South of France sky becomes baby blue and pastel pink, the swallows start dancing – putting on a show as they swoop and dive between the rooftops. It’s a small village surrounded by olive groves that are still pressed every year in the traditional way. If you’re curious, you can watch a demo at the old olive mill during the summer months.

The château is perhaps the most famous castle of the Provence villages, and is certainly the most impressive! You could spend all day simply exploring the caves, climbing the exposed staircases and watching the scheduled demonstrations on offer at Château des Baux de Provence. Nearby, another unique attraction awaits at Carrières de Lumières – a multimedia show that takes place in a quarry beneath the Alpilles mountains.

Museums

he work of Henri Matisse (1860-1954) glows with the colors of the Mediterranean sea and inspires with the sheer joie de vivre of his paintings. He came to Nice in 1916 and settled in leafy Cimiez in the hills above Nice for the rest of his life, living at the nearby Regina building at 71 bd de Cimiez. The museum itself is housed in a magnificent 17th-century Genoese villa, painted in the ochre shades of Sienna. You walk through the rooms seeing how his work evolved from his early more studied and relatively somber art through the influence of Cézanne, his work as a founder of Fauvism to the wonderful ‘cut-outs’ which he made after he became bedridden later in his life. There are sculptures, photographs of the artist and sketches and models for his Chapelle du Rosaire in nearby Vence. Musée Matisse Address: 164 av des Arènes de Cimiez

n 1966, Marc Chagall gave 17 large canvases from his Biblical Messages series which included 5 versions of The Song of Songs to form the heart of the museum A second gift in 1972 brought all the preparatory sketches, so you see the complete work from conception to finish. More items were added, making this the largest collection of his work and an absolute must for Chagall fans. Musée Marc Chagall Address: Av. du Dr-Menard, Cimiez Tel.: 00 33 (0)4 93 53 87 20

his is one of my favourite small museums in one of my favourite towns on the coast. The Château Grimaldi which Picasso used as a studio in 1946, stands on the ramparts overlooking the sea. In the distance you see the mega yachts of the mega rich while the sea breaks against the rocks below. The windows give a pearly light to the wonderful collection of Picasso’s ceramics and the drawings, paintings and prints that fill the small stone-walled rooms. The museum also has some surprising and stunning works by Nicolas de Stael from the last two years of his brief life, plus paintings by Max Ernst, Fernand Léger, and Juan Mirò. Musée Picasso Address: Chateau Grimaldi, Antibes Tel.: 00 33 04 92 90 54 20/26

ust south east of the charming hilltop village of Biot, the museum is set in a somber, imposing building designed by the Russian architect, Andrei Svetchine in 1960. Especially built to house a huge collection of works by Fernand Léger, the first thing you see is the enormous ceramic mosaic that decorates the eastern façade. Inside the collections consists of over 450 works, from sketches to paintings, sculptures to mosaics. Arranged strictly chronological, it shows Léger’s progression from Impressionist to Cubism and his extraordinary later works with their geometric, robot-like style. Musée National Fernand Leger Address: Chemin du Val-de-Pome Tel.: 00 33 04 92 91 50 30

his is an exception to the other museums here; it is the collection of Aime and Marguerite Maeght, renowned Cannes art dealers who also made friends with artists like Chagall and Matisse. So the collection is a mix, but it is among the best small museums in the world. If you’re lucky enough to be staying at the delightful fortified village of St-Paul-de-Vence, it’s just a few minutes away. It’s beautifully laid out, surrounded by leafy gardens, with light flooding inside, to illuminate works like the slender figures of Alberto Giacometti, the colorful paintings of Chagall, pastoral scenes from Bonnard who lived in Provence for the last 22 years of his life, and works from Joan Miro, Calder and international contemporary artists. Fondation Maeght 623 chemin des Gardettes Saint-Paul-de-Vence Tel.: 00 33 (0)4 93 32 81 63

n Haut-de-Cagnes, just above the main part of Cagnes-sur-Mer, this is one of the most peaceful and low key museums in the area. At Renoir’s house, now the museum, You’re greeted by the sound of birdsong among the olive, orange and lemon trees that shade the garden where his great bronze sculpture, Venus Victrix stands. Renoir came to the south of France when he began to suffer from arthritis and lived here from 1903 until his death in 1919. Inside the house, the furniture and personal objects are left as they were when Renoir lived here. When you step into the atelier, the feeling of the artist’s presence is so great that you expect to see him at his easel. The museum has 11 of his paintings from the final period of his life as well as works by his friends Pierre Bonnard and Raoul Dufy. Check out the guide to Renoir’s museum Musée Renoir Address: 19 chemin des Collettes, Haut-deCagnes Tel.: 00 33 04 93 20 61 07

"Il n'y a qu'une vie, c'est donc qu'elle est parfaite." -P.Eluard

tart at the Cours Saleya market and the little streets of the Vieille Ville (Old Town) for socca (a thin pancake made from chickpea flour and olive oil, baked and crisped in the oven and seasoned with black pepper, a little like a crepe), the best pizzas, pissaladière (pizza-like onion tart), petits farcis (delicious stuffed Provençale vegetables), salade Niçoise, pan bagnat (fresh baps or bread filled with salade Niçoise), tourte aux blettes (tart of Swiss chard, raisins and pine nuts) and beignets de fleurs de courgettes (deep fried fritters with vegetables like courgettes flowers).

“

HOW CAN YOU GOVERN A COUNTRY WCHICH ” HAS 246 VARIETIES OF CHEESE.“" -Charles de Gaulle

occa is a popular dish in and around the area of Nice, France and province of Genoa, Italy. In Italy, where it originated, it’s referred to as farinata. Depending on your geographical location, you will find this flatbread served various ways using the same batter base of one part flour to water plus salt and oil. Typically this flatbread is served with a few herbs and spices and eaten with the hands. It can be eaten as is (torn apart or sliced), served with condiments or served topped with various ingredients. It pairs well with soups, salads, a side of hummus or harissa. You can also serve it as a meal topped, or stuffed (like crepes), with different ingredients of choice. There really are many variations of chickpea flatbread and I’ll be happy to experiment in the future with some of the techniques and styles of serving socca.

Chez Pipo ... is where the locals go for typical Nice dishes like socca. It’s a small, well-established restaurant run by a young team who have expanded the repertoire and introduced other Niçois specialities (unthought of in the old days) like pissaladière and tourte aux blettes. It is not the place if you are in a hurry. Address: 13 rue Bavastro Tel.: 00 33 (0)4 93 55 88 82 Open: Wed.-Sun. 11.30am-2pm & 5.30 to 10pm.

At René Socca,

you queue up (and it might be a long queue) to buy your socca or beignets, then grab an outdoor table and order drinks. It’s relaxed, friendly and communal. Address: 2 rue Miralheti Tel.: 00 33 (0)4 93 92 15 73 Open: Tues.-Sun. 9 am-9 pm

his jewel of the French Riviera was a sleepy fishing village when 19th-century English aristocrat Henry Brougham began encouraging his friends to visit. These days the place is packed with millionaires year-round, and the Cannes Film Festival each May is the designer-gowned cherry on top of that pricey sundae. But you don’t have to be a movie star to enjoy this beautiful resort. Here are five ways to live like a blueblood on the Cote d’Azur without spending any green.

The Croisette The Boulevard de la Croisette (pronounced kwah-SETT) is the curving street that stretches for just over a mile along the sea front. It is the place to see and be seen. Joggers, mamas with strollers, young ladies dressed to the nines — you’ll see a wide variety of humanity strolling or puffing along the wide pathway. Beach cafes beckon with million-dollar views (and millionaire-friendly pricing) while handsome hotels line the other side of the street. Look for the InterContinental Carlton’s distinctive domes, said to be modeled on the bosom of a World War I-era courtesan. You may recognize it as a locale in the Alfred Hitchcock Riviera caper “To Catch a Thief.” This is where heiress Frances Stephens (Grace Kelly) and her mother stayed.

Markets Heading west, Rue d’Antibes turns into Felix Faure, which takes you to the Cannes covered market, Marche Forville (head north on Rue Louis Blanc). The market, open 7 a.m.-1 p.m. Tuesdays-Sundays, features mountains of produce, flowers, cheese, olives and more and is a fun place to take photographs. On Mondays it turns into a flea market. Details: publicmarkets.com/marche-forvillecannes-france.

The Beach Some beaches along the Riviera are private and you will pay a pretty penny for the privilege of sitting under a parasol. But there are sections of free beach in Cannes, including Plage du Midi on Boulevard du Midi Jean Hibert west of the old port. Along the Croisette, Mace is a municipally managed beach, which means you can rent chairs and umbrellas for less than at private beaches. It also has an open section where you can lounge for free on the sand. Details: www.cannes-destination.com/goingout-in-cannes-cannes/beaches-cannes.

Quiet time If you need a break from the bling and hustle, you’ll find it at the church of Notre-Dame d’Esperance. It’s around the corner from the Castre Museum and easily identified by its distinctive clock tower. This Gothic church has fine wood paneling and chapels decorated with statues and paintings. For about $1.36 you can activate the lighting for a better view, although if you wait a moment most likely you can enjoy someone else’s $1.36 worth of illumination. Hanging from the ceiling are carved wooden models of boats, a reminder of the days when Cannes was more fishy than flashy. Details: www.notredameesperance.com.

"It is good to have an end to journey toward, but it is the journey that matters, in the end.â&#x20AC;? -E.Hemingway