BVI Yacht Guide December 2009 - January 2010 by Virgin Islands Property & Yacht

Pride

of Ownership

Own a yacht in the Caribbean Whether for personal use or as part of a successful charter fleet, Horizon Yacht Sales offer you top quality sailing yachts and luxury catamarans customised to suit your every requirement and lifestyle. Enjoy an ownership programme offering unlimited sailing, maximum income and the

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THE CREW copy Production Owen Waters, David Blacklock & Traci O'Dea advertising Production Colin Rathbun & Nick Cunha advertising Sales Owen Waters :: owen@alookingglass.com Graphic design Richard George & Nick Cunha executive Producer Colin Rathbun, aLookingGlass Publishing colin@alookingglass.com For additional information contact Nick Cunha or Colin Rathbun at aLookingGlass or visit www.bviyg.com alookingGlass #7 Road Reef Plaza, P.O. Box 3895 Sea Cows Bay, Tortola, British Virgin Islands t 284.494.7788 f 284.494.8777 www.alookingglass.com | info@alookingglass.com

On the Cover: Nail Bay Rendering by OBM International.

aLookingGlass Ltd., publisher of BVI Yacht Guide, assumes no responsibility for the accuracy of the content placed in its publications. For the avoidance of doubt, aLookingGlass gives no warranty or guarantee in regards to any information placed in its publications. BVI Yacht Guide and its contents are the intellectual property of aLookingGlass Ltd. Neither this magazine nor any part of it may be reproduced without written permission from aLookingGlass Ltd.

letter from the editor Welcome to Yacht Guide's December − January issue. Welcome to the December - January issue of BVI Yacht Guide. This is our annual double issue, bigger and the best of in so many ways. For me and many others, the winter is the best time of the year in the BVI; everything is going on, all the time. Not only is it Christmas, and “irie Christmas” will start to ring out on Main Street, but it is high season, and you only need to look out onto the Channel to see the amount of boats full of visitors to the charter sailing capital of the world. These islands are loved from within and afar. Add to that cooler nights, winter swells and northeast fresh trade winds, throw in a beach barbeque for Christmas Day and the odd painkiller of any description and dig those toes in the sand. You are having fun. The BVI is a Mecca, a hive of activity. Beyond the nature, the weather and the wealth of interesting people living and working here, there is also the respected industry that supports the marine tourism and the people who live here for a life on the water. This issue highlights some of the best developments currently at work that shape our islands and its lifestyle for generations to come. For us here at YG, we have been working extremely hard to bring this issue together to showcase some of the best properties and marine developments going on. As always, we aim for exclusives and to give you an inside view of what we hope you will enjoy should you visit, or even consider investing. This year has seen our team expand, develop and change our office and hone in on marketing our customers to the best avenues possible whilst bringing a better style of graphic design and copy to our magazine. It is a group effort, and not only the team working round the clock but also our photographers, contributors and advertisers that make it all happen. The sum is greater than its component parts, and the cogs in the wheel are similar to what makes your holiday or lifestyle here unique, it’s made up of many hearty souls giving their best at all times. This year for us also marked the passing of John Rathbun, one of the originators of alookingGlass, a good man, and his legacy continues in Colin, his son, and in all of us here at aLG keeping the dreams alive. I was out windsurfing a while ago, two dolphins swam under my board and joined me for five minutes at around twenty knots, that is priceless − that is the BVI.

Have a great festive season − you deserve it. Owen Waters

DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010 BVI YACHT GUIDE ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING | www.bviguides.com

Owen Waters

Managing editor Owen Waters :: owen@alookingglass.com

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10 Nail Bay: Moving to the Next Level. . .

16 Geoff Holt’s Very Personal Atlantic

Shoreside Review: The Dove and Bar Fly

18 Scrub Island: Old Caribbean Charm Unites. . .

W H AT ' S I N S I D E ? Yard Talk: Sunblock for Your Boat Protect your boat’s vinyl and fiberglass from the harsh and harmful sun with Golden Hind Chandlery’s recommendations.

nail bay: Moving to the Next Level in Marine Resort Conservation 10 Nail Bay’s new dock and marina will also act as an artificial reef with hopes to preserve the shoreline and underwater wildlife as well as build back up some of the decreasing sea-life populations. In addition, owners and visitors of Nail Bay will now have a convenient and conscientious place to dock their boats. Provisioning: The Perfect Onboard Meal 12 Digging into her tried-and-true recipe box, Chef Susie offers up a simple and delicious Caribbean meal: Jerk chicken, smashed potatoes and Island coleslaw. Women on the Water: The Women of Bitter End Yacht Club 13 Carine Locher and Sandra Grisham-Clothier, from BEYC, discuss the increase of women in the water-dependent industries of the BVI. Shoreside review: The Dove and Bar Fly The Dove offers the highest quality food, wine and cocktails in the BVI in an upscale, intimate setting. Bar Fly, above The Dove, serves a livelier crowd.

Scrub Island: Old Caribbean Charm Unites with Understated Modern Luxury 18 The new marina and luxury resort at Scrub Island is a haven for fishing enthusiasts, nature lovers and those simply seeking to bask in the beauty and isolation of the Caribbean. days Out: Kuralu 21 Gary Cottreau and Kuralu provide amazing, unforgettable day sails to guests who desire to be pampered while having a fun and relaxing day out in the BVI. Skipper’s Tips: Secrets of the Kaptinz Klub 22 Our skipper asks his fellow captains for some of their best kept secrets, and offers some great hints for anchoring around the Islands. bVI charter Yacht Show breaks records 24 This year’s BVI Charter Yacht Show attracted more brokers and boats than past years. Yachts and crew were on display to show off their best. bVI Yachting d irectory Look here for the most up-to-date yacht charter and broker listings. It's a great place to start if you're looking to buy or charter a yacht in the BVI.

Geoff Holt’s Very Personal atlantic 16 Twenty-five years ago, at the age of 18, Geoff Holt left Cane Garden Bay in an ambulance. This December, at 43, he will return to Cane Garden Bay after completing his goal of being the first quadriplegic sailor to cross the Atlantic unaided.

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Sunblock for your boat with Owen Waters

How do you know what boat care products really work? Why trust 303’s formulas on your boat? Simplify—let the industry test them and then take the recommendations of your trusted local chandlery. Consumers don’t need to take the risk. a thoroughly saturated sponge or cloth to assure the Sunlight is a killer on vinyl or synthetic gelcoat is thoroughly wetted with 303. After a couple products, and protection, as any boat owner hours, if any portion of the surface is dull, apply more or charter company will tell you, is all in the 303 to that portion. Let soak in for 12-24 hours. The maintenance and using the tried-and-tested entire surface will look like new, but to complete the quirky tips of other boat owners. If there is a job all the unabsorbed 303 must be wiped away. This product that works, would you trust it above is easily done with a clean towel and bucket of clean the legendary tips? Hey now, toothpaste water. Soak the towel in the water, wring out most of must have taken some convincing. the water and wipe down the gelcoat. If it is a large According to Ramiz Abuhaydar of Golden Hind area, you will have to rinse out the towel periodically. Chandlery, “303’s Aerospace Protectant is the leader Gelcoat fiberglass is polyester resin with the in UV screening technology.” It is advertised as "SPF pigment in the resin, commonly used in boats, RVs, 40 Sunscreen ... For Your Stuff," and Ramiz supports snowmobiles, jet skis, etc. Gelcoat fiberglass rapidly that claim. Regular use gives 100% prevention of UVfades and chalks with traditional maintenance being caused slow fade. tedious and repetitive buffing and waxing. 303 Okay, good I say, but let us test it out, and most of Aerospace Protectant is an alternative to buffing all, let’s get the instructions right, and what are we and waxing. A new appearance is attempted to applying it onto exactly? be maintained with periodic spray on/wipe off 303’s formulations are known as “the products applications usually every 45-60 days of exposure. manufacturers recommend most for after-purchase Method Two (for fiberglass): Wash the surface maintenance.” In talking with Ramiz, who is constantly researching the best products for boats, he We cover ourselves in SPF 30 or more every day to combat the trusts the findings of harsh UV rays, so it makes sense to do the same for our boats Spradling International, Inc (a large producer to remove surface dirt and grit. Then use a variable of marine vinyl) who tested 303 Fabric/Vinyl Cleaner. speed power buffer (set not to exceed 1800 rpm) The results found it to be safe and effective on their with a synthetic wool pad (or equivalent). Spray 303 vinyl as opposed to many commercial cleaners that on the surface, spread with the buffer on low, and then are harmful to the material. increase the rpm and buff until dry. Professionals utilizing The ‘plastic’ windows in convertible tops, soft-tops, this method achieve a labor savings of at least 80% boat enclosures, is actually a specialized type of vinyl compared to standard buffing & waxing, while producing called “Pressed Polished Sheets,” or “pressed poly.” a more lustrous and beautiful, longer lasting finish. In On clear vinyl, wear and tear and UV exposure cause some cases, pre-buffing may be required. Be sure to use brittle, decay, yellowing and failure. Like all vinyl, clear a buffing compound which leaves no wax or polymer vinyl contains plasticizers (to keep it soft and pliable) finish.To prevent the recurrence of both UV fading and and UV stabilizers (to retard UV degradation), but oxidation, periodically reapply 303 Aerospace Protectant clear vinyl loses its plasticizers much more rapidly (spray on/wipe dry). This will provide continuing UV than top-coated vinyl. protection and keep the gelcoat surface like new. Method One (for vinyl): First rinse off the vinyl to We cover ourselves in SPF 30 or more every day remove any grit which might scratch the vinyl. Then to combat the harsh UV rays, so it makes sense to using a little real soap (Ivory) in a bucket of cool do the same for our boats that are also exposed to water and a very soft cloth, lather up the clear vinyl the penetrating, damaging light. Whether touching then immediately rinse with cool water. (Never use up your vinyl or your fiberglass, this season, don’t cleaners or even detergents, just soap). Spray 303 on forget the sunblock. YG the surface liberally; rub it around with your hand or 8

DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010 BVI YACHT GUIDE ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING | www.bviguides.com

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NAIL BAY

by Owen Waters

MOVInG TO THe neXT leVel In lUXUrY MarIne reSOrT cOnSerVaTIOn

Photos by Nail Bay

Like others, I have seen the ecological and aesthetic disasters of efforts in the construction of sea walls and marinas. Many aspects are involved, notably environment versus development. It is an age-old controversy, and one that is filled with examples of prior blunders. I do know one thing, when mankind damages the ocean, it is going to be a mistake we will all see, and future generations will look back at with dismay. If we had more foresight than hindsight, perhaps we could have avoided many of those blunders. Sometimes, it can be done right with emphasis on growth rather than destruction as illustrated in the project for a new 52-slip dock with an artificial barrier reef for the protection of the beach and the prevention of erosion on the shore at Nail Bay,Virgin Gorda.

The purpose of the dock at nail bay is to provide marine access and facilities for the residents of the luxury resort development. The purchasers of about 50 new lots and villas that will be offered for sale as part of the new 5-Star Taj exotica, Spa and residences at nail bay will be able to select a slip with their purchase. The slips will have 13-16ft draft and accommodate twenty-four 35’ boats, twelve 50’ boats and fourteen 60’ boats. That is an attractive prospect for anyone investing in the Islands. Nail Bay Resort, under the leadership of Ajit George, has seen over $50 million in villas constructed to date with a state of the art infrastructure with stand-by generators and a water supply and distribution system already installed. The slips will have many amenities such as water, electricity, internet and phone service for boats but will direct all vessels to local marinas for fuelling and provisioning. There will be many opportunities for local businesses to participate in the operations of this marine facility, including providing fishing and boat charters. The docks are almost a byline of what is about to become one of the world’s largest artificial barrier reefs, according to Ajit George, Managing Director of Nail Bay, who first came to Virgin Gorda twentyseven years ago. “This is as much about protecting our eroding beaches and the surrounding reefs as developing another amenity at our resort. We don’t go into things lightly and want to improve the coastal 10

environment at Nail Bay that is better than it has been for over two decades.” In fact, the contractors for the artificial barrier reef, Coastal Restoration, Inc. and Artificial Reefs, Inc., have been responsible for several projects, most recently in Negril, Jamaica. My personal view of structured engineering in the ocean environment has led me to discard the theory that everything should be left alone to its natural processes. I do not think that can be the motive of anyone truly interested in the environment, and as I read through the in-depth Environmental Report on the project, prepared by ecologist Clive Petrovic, I am increasingly more fascinated at the concept of constructing an ecosystem rather than destroying one. Scott Bartkowski, who developed this design for

life. This also restores beach lines with sand being deposited on the shore rather than clawed back out rapidly by high-impact swells.” The device, simple in design, has many positive attributes. Surface wave energy is deflected up, not down, at an angle. The vertical component reduces and deflects the horizontal vector of any incoming wave energy. This attenuates wave energy, releasing any bottom material being carried with the wave from suspension. In addition, suspended sand particles are greatly reduced from vertical lifting movement, and deposition then begins around the front and behind the reef. Any energy passing through the ten openings of each individually placed pyramid has its energy levels greatly decreased. The openings

The device, simple in design, has many positive attributes. Artificial Reefs, Inc., describes the artificial barrier reef as “a wave attenuation device acting as a porous groyne. Traditional sea walls or breakwaters are simply solid and vertical, restricting underflow and serve the purpose of deflecting the impact of swell or waves. On the other side the water is calm and seems unnatural. Consider a collection of porous pyramids letting the sea-life and sediment flow through its tunnels yet deflecting the higher impact of oncoming swells, in essence attenuate and not refract. High energy changes to low energy on the other side of the barrier still giving flow and access for all marine

DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010 BVI YACHT GUIDE ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING | www.bviguides.com

also allow natural light to surround the structure, encouraging reef development on the numerous faces of the hollow structure, creating a new marine habitat. Mr. George says, “These wave attenuation devices will be custom built in Virgin Gorda to be site specific, and the structures often, naturally rebuild the eroded beach through sand accretion. These artificial barrier reefs are estimated to produce between .2 and .48 metric tons of marine biomass per square meter of substrate provided by the very large wave attenuation devices. This is on an annual basis after the first year of being in place.”

A 60-ton artificial reef pyramid being hauled into place A completed reef

To place everything in context, the reef is to be placed on the northeast coast of Virgin Gorda, north of Mahoe Bay and adjacent to and south of Long Bay. In the Environmental Report, it was noted that fish species in the area had been greatly reduced due to overfishing, and that activity has now decreased. The Artificial Barrier Reef is the first of a two-phase operation. The reef is designed in two sections, an eastern portion about 760 feet long and a western portion about 900 feet long. It will be placed in depths ranging from 13-18 feet, emerging about five feet from the surface in areas and some 400 feet from the shore. As each structure weighs 60 tons, 256 three-sided units made in Virgin Gorda,

shelter for those awaiting a ferry, and the approach promenade will accommodate golf carts to collect the guest’s luggage. Extending offshore about 300 feet with an access walkway to shore, the two 500-foot long arcs of the dock will become a significant amenity for the Nail Bay Resort, providing an attractive walkway for visitors and residents, taking in the views out to the Dogs and those back to Nail Bay and on up to Gorda Peak with the bonus of an appreciation of the protected reef area alongside the inner face of the dock. The southwestern arm of the dock terminates in a swimming platform, which sits over one of the

A barge ferries the structures to the new reef location

Having provided the coastal protection, the next challenge was to design a dock that complements the natural beauty of the Nail Bay setting. each with a 25-foot wide base with a rounded top, will be placed by a local contractor using a barge to create a pyramid type structure. Having provided the coastal protection, the next challenge was to design a dock that complements the natural beauty of the Nail Bay setting. “Nail Bay has a stunning, rugged beauty, with the natural curve of the beach, the secondary curve of the shallow reef that follows the shoreline and the variation in colour of the ocean, from the turquoise of the sandy patches within the reef to the darker blues as the water deepens,” said Tim Peck, of OBM International. He added, “The challenge was to design a dock structure that compliments and becomes part of the setting rather than imposes itself upon it when viewed from sea level and also from the road and the residences high up on the hillsides.” OBMI came up with a unique design solution, allowing a freeform dock to follow the curve of the outer face of the reef, picking up on the natural curve of the primary colour transition in the bay (see cover of YG for rendering of proposed dock). The curved dock is positioned away from the face of the reef and allows for docking on the outer face only, thereby forming a barrier providing an additional element of protection for the near shore reef. The natural curve will be highlighted at night with a linear LED lighting system set into the inner face of the dock platform. The link to the shore follows a natural break in the existing reef, creating a 300-foot long promenade, which stretches out to the arrival pavilion, and welcomes those guests who arrive by boat onto the property. There will be two slips reserved for ferries between the various islands. The sculptural form of the pavilion will provide

sandy blue holes in the reef, allowing guests easy and safe access to enjoy a sample of the Nail Bay marine life in almost a lagoon environment. Evidence has been found that, amongst the species studied on the inshore areas, the endangered Acropora corals are in abundance and hopefully will be protected further from ground sea wave damage by the installation of the Artificial Barrier Reef. Notably, due to overfishing, there is a reduction in conch, grouper and lobster which the developers hope will be able to thrive back to its natural state. Naturally, there will be some impact; however, the proposal to us at YG seems to be a positive one overall. Nail Bay resort is just beautiful, and it has to be one of my personal favourite places on Earth. The houses and landscaping speak for a community that looks after itself from every angle. Its coastline is raw and rugged, and imagination pours into endless sea views. Every time I have been there, for work or play or both, I have always been charmed by the people who proudly call Nail Bay their home. It makes sense that the next phase is to encourage more of a community with ocean access. Sometimes developers do the right things in the wrong way, and it’s refreshing that the conscientious team at Nail Bay has all the intentions and research to do it right. That, in development anywhere is a blessing. Nail Bay is planning a public offering of shares in its parent company where shares will be offered to both belongers and non-belongers to finance the proposed dock and a 5-Star luxury resort that is going to be established at Nail Bay. Potential investors in Nail Bay may contact Ajit George at ajit@nailbay.com. YG

The artificial reef will protect the shoreline and encourage fish populations to increase.

t: 1.284.494.8000 e: ajit@nailbay.com w: www.nailbay.com

www.bviguides.com | ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING BVI YACHT GUIDE DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010

Provisioning

The PerfecT OnbOard Meal

by Susie Younkle

I grew up in the kitchen watching and helping my mother and absorbing her many bits of cooking advice. A wonderful cook and a gracious hostess, my mom has a rule that she never tries a recipe for the first time on guests. Instead, she has a variety of always-changing menus that she has perfected. I bend my mom’s rule slightly (perhaps I’ll try a new side dish or salad dressing) but generally follow it, not because I have friends who are judgmental or fussy—rather my friends are just content to drink wine while someone else cooks—but because it’s easier for me to relax when making a meal I know and like.

Jerk chicken on the grill

Herb Smashed Potatoes

Island Coleslaw

Sponsored by

Some people, like my mom, are able to have a normal conversation while cooking a full meal with friends in the kitchen. Though I inherited her love of entertaining, I unfortunately did not fully inherit my mom’s multitasking ability in the kitchen. I can competently juggle numerous cooking projects, but put one chatty friend in my kitchen, and I can barely chop an onion. as a result, I do nearly all my cooking in advance so I can spend time catching up with friends during a relaxing meal. Like many avid cooks, I have a variety of menus and recipes that are standbys for different occasions. One of my “go-to” onboard meals is jerk chicken, herbed smashed potatoes and island coleslaw.This menu fits my main guidelines for cooking on a boat in the Caribbean: I can readily find the ingredients, with many produced locally; cabbage, potatoes and carrots all keep well on a boat; no complicated techniques or equipment are involved; and I can make everything in advance. For the chicken, I purchase a bottle of wet jerk rub, such as Jamaica’s Grace Brand (available at RiteWay). Numerous Jamaican friends have confided that commercially produced Jamaican jerk blends are so good that they rarely bother with homemade jerk seasoning. I tend to agree. Apply the jerk seasoning to assorted boned chicken pieces, with or without the skin. Cover and marinate overnight, then grill as desired. During a provisioning stop in Grenada last year, the market ladies kept asking if I needed what I heard as “sive and time.” After some confusion, I finally realized that they were selling “chive and thyme,” (though their local chives are actually what people in the BVI would call green onions or scallions), a combination so popular in Grenada that the two ingredients are nearly always sold bundled together. One evening I threw leftover “chive and thyme” into my mashed potatoes for some colour, and that was the start of my new favourite potatoes. Colourful, crisp coleslaw rounds out this versatile menu. I’ve given the coleslaw island flavours by

dispensing with the more conventional mayonnaise dressing in favour of a tangy lime vinaigrette. herbed Smashed Potatoes • 2 ½ lbs red potatoes or new potatoes, scrubbed and quartered • 1/2 C sour cream • 1/3 C milk, or more • 1 C chopped green onions (or substitute ½ c chopped fresh chives) • 1 Tbsp fresh thyme, chopped • 4 Tbsp butter • 1 tsp salt • ¼ tsp black pepper

Add potatoes to a big pot of water and boil until tender. Mash the potatoes to your liking. Add remaining ingredients to the potatoes and combine well. Serves six. Island coleslaw with lime Vinaigrette 1 small head green cabbage, sliced 1 small red bell pepper, cut in matchsticks 3 carrots, shredded 1/2 small red onion, sliced 1/3 C chopped cilantro Vinaigrette: • • • • •

1/3 C olive oil 3 Tbsp lime juice 1 ½ tsp lime zest ½ tsp cumin 1 garlic clove, minced

Combine first five ingredients in a large bowl. Place all vinaigrette ingredients in a jar and shake vigorously. Pour vinaigrette over vegetable mixture. Add salt, pepper and hot sauce to taste. Serves six. YG

Riteway Food Markets provisioning service offers a number of services to help your visit to the British Virgin Islands be a fuss-free, enjoyable experience. Time is of the essence for you and our 20 plus years' experience in provisioning has enabled us to tailor our services to suit the needs of all concerned by providing a wide selection of choice foods, beverages, liquor and dry products. So, whether it is your private getaway schooner, or a Super Mega yacht, each order, no matter how large or small, is given the same amount of detailed attention and delivered directly to you. After all, it's the Riteway way of doing business!

DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010 BVI YACHT GUIDE ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING | www.bviguides.com

Carine Locher and Sandra Grisham-Clothier of the Bitter End

Women on the Water

The Women of bitter end Yacht club

by Traci O'Dea

When I first walk into the reception area of bitter end Yacht club (beYc), I’m greeted by carved wooden statues of arawak women in various poses: one proudly stands by the door, another serenely sits by the railing, a third gently paddles a canoe on the landing. before I have a chance to wonder at the significance of the wooden ladies, I’m greeted by carine locher, the new Quarterdeck Manager at bitter end. carine and I walk to the clubhouse Grill where day Hostess beulah Samuel welcomes us, and I smile because beulah was the name of my maternal greatgrandmother. I feel like family already. We sit down to a buffet barbecue lunch and chat about beYc’s Women on the Water program, a week of sailing they’ve offered in the past for aspiring female sailors, taught by world-class sailing champions. Though the program isn’t being offered this season, carine hopes to reinstate it next year and launch a promotional campaign to support it. The fact that beYc has offered Women on the Water in the past and desires to continue it in the future indicates their commitment to championing women. Multi-lingual, Swiss-born Carine joined the staff at Bitter End in 2008 after working as a day sail captain. Before she was a day sail captain, she was recruited for a position as a dive instructor for Kilbrides Sunchaser Scuba which is how she first came to the BVI. “I always say that the BVI chose me,” Carine says. “Maybe that’s why I’m still here.” Carine first learned to drive a power boat when she worked as a dive instructor. “Here

“A lot of companies like to hire women because in the BVI, instructors also drive the boats,” says they have a different approach,” Carine says and Carine. “You do everything. It’s great. It gave me describes how she will still splice a line instead the opportunity to learn.” After that, she learned of buying one. “Why pay for one that’s already to sail. “It’s no noise. It’s just the elements. I braided when you can do it yourself? The more absolutely love it,” she says. you know, even if you don’t use it for a while, Carine and I are joined by Sandra Grishamyou can figure it out again. It gives a sense of Clothier, Chief Operating Officer of the Bitter End accomplishment. If you don’t do that effort, you Resort. Sandra’s background is in hotel management. don’t get that feeling.” At one property in the Florida Keys, she started Sandra describes her active childhood on the water, a watersports and dive program, introducing her and her dad encouraging her to “get in there and employers to the benefits of incorporating water beat her brother” at activities to the resort. watersports. “It’s great She first came to "In the BVI, we are known as the capital to see all the young the BVI as BEYC’s of sailing, so we attract more captains, girls come out here managing director and really get into the in 1999-2001 but and therefore more female captains,” sports and stay in it,” returned to the Sandra mentions. “We States to further her saw a lot of mother-daughter trips last year. We’re familycareer then came back to BEYC in 2008 as the Chief owned and family-run, so it has that nice warmth to it.” Operating Officer. “It’s funny how a lot of the women “In the BVI, we are known as the capital of circle back to the Bitter End,” Sandra tells me and sailing, so we attract more captains, and therefore runs down a mental list of women in management more female captains,” Carine says, and Bitter End positions at BEYC. is known as the premier watersports centre in When I ask them if they’ve seen an increase of the BVI. Sandra proclaims, “Our world is on the women on the water in general over the past ten water, that’s for sure.” YG years, they say yes, in both SCUBA and boating.

www.bviguides.com | ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING BVI YACHT GUIDE DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010

All photos by Dan O'Connor

Shoreside Review

by Owen Waters

THe dOVe and bar flY: fIne fOOd, WIne and cOckTaIlS

Don’t imagine the British Virgin Islands to consist of only flip flops and pirate impressions as you would be selling yourself short, and why would anyone want to do that? In fact, life here is not like that at all, and in a community of professional residents as well as expats from all over the world, there is a draw, a need and a place for those wanting the finer fare, the better wines and the dirty martinis while wearing high-heeled shoes and shirts buttoned all the way up. If you have ever walked into a venue and know that you are at the type of place where you deserve to be treated, then you are talking about the delicate precision that makes up the Dove. The dove is more than an original wine bar; it is the slick brainchild of husband and wife team Scott Hart and Paloma Helm. Professionalism in restaurants is always proven, respected and shines without neon or romantic marketing— you either have it or you don’t.The dove has had it right from the start.“The concept of a fine dining wine bar in road Town was laughed at,” explains Scott “People thought there would be no market for us.When others saw town as a dust bowl (back then none of the waterfront parking lots were paved) with no tourists to cater to, we saw a growing professional sector emerging with limited dining options.We decided to take a different course and went after residents rather than tourists.” With the idea in hand, the young couple then began their difficult search for a space. “I insisted that we find a place with character,” states Paloma, “with both my parents being architects here on Tortola, I really wanted a space with history and personality.” They found an old West Indian cottage on Main Street, the former home of Sir Olva Georges, the only BVIslander to be knighted by the Queen, and began an extensive sevenmonth refurbishing of the property. “We found the perfect space, only it was about to fall down,” laughs Paloma. “Scott and I worked so hard to rebuild this beautiful old house. If I had known how much work it was going to be, I probably wouldn’t have dared tried.” Scott adds, “We are lucky to have such great friends and family. Everyone pitched in to help. It was a big project—protecting the original architecture and converting that space for restaurant use. We couldn’t have ever finished without all the additional help.” The Dove opened to a full house in January 2004. With attention to detail and a focus on food, wine and 14

select which new wines to add to the list personally. service, they stayed at the top of their game. “We had a great response right from the get go. What surprised “This is definitely the most fun part of the job, but also the most interesting. Meeting and talking with the wine us was how busy our bar was,” explains Scott. “We makers, seeing how they process the wine and tasting expanded the patio under the mango tree twice, and each time we expanded we got busier.” Two years ago, it at the vineyard gives you a whole new understanding for the product. This is where we have made some Scott and Paloma decided to tackle construction again great finds. Every year we look for something to and built a cocktail lounge offering “small eats” called compliment our list, to make sure that it progresses Bar Fly on the waterfront side of the property. “We and is responding to our customer’s wants. This year, for wanted to build a space with a more casual ambience, example, we have paid with fast, simple food and . . . it is no surprise that the Dove and extra attention to value inventive cocktails. We built the new space up a Bar Fly continue to attract full houses. wines. People deservedly want great wine at a level so that we could take great price. This just takes a little extra hunting on our advantage of the ocean view and breeze,” explains part,” explains Scott. Scott. “Bar Fly has been very successful for us. It Professionalism is present in every detail of the provides a good balance to the Dove.” restaurant, especially the staff. Service at the Dove With the season upon us, the Dove has no doubts and Bar Fly is seamless. “We have a fantastic staff. about being one of the busiest restaurants in town.The We have been able to find some great people and difference is they are going to capitalize on what they most importantly, we have some great management. already know, improve and push it cleaner, harder, and Managers Sean, Katie and Travis contribute so much to keep it as sharp as some of their clientele. I have often the restaurants. They come at us every week with fresh thought that patrons reflect the aspirations of the owner’s reality, not vision, and either the gap widens or is ideas and make sure that we stay on top of our game. We put a lot of pressure on them for new menu ideas, a flowing synergy.The season’s menu has surpassed the special parties, fundraisers, and promotions, and they aspirations of returning to either a sophisticated Boston always surpass our expectations,” says Paloma. or London restaurant for the night. It is right here in With all the components of a great restaurant reality and for savouring. “Our menu at the Dove uses in place, it is no surprise that the Dove and Bar Fly French and Asian flavour profiles as a platform. Chef continue to attract full houses. “The future is very Travis Phillips changes the menu seasonally and uses exciting,” says Scott. “Paloma and I are very lucky, only the freshest ingredients,” states Paloma. “Travis is we have this great relationship with our clientele incredibly talented. He has an innate sense of how to that is always daring us to try something new.” create a dish, how to build and contrast flavours, how to delight the diner and still find ways to surprise them, give The Dove and Bar Fly are open Tuesday to Saturday them something unexpected.” serving dinner from 6pm. Call 494 0313 to make The wine list at the Dove is the largest in the BVI. a reservation. PG Scott and Paloma travel to wineries every summer and

DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010 BVI YACHT GUIDE ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING | www.bviguides.com

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Dove

Bar Fly

Assorted Sushi Plate $17 Mirin & yuzu marinated crab roll, inside out sesame salmon roll & tuna nigiri

Three Cheese Board $13 Stilton, herbed goats cheese and white cheddar, served with crackers

Caspian Salad $14 Soy roasted artichokes stuffed with goats cheese, dried cherry tomatoes, shallots, cashews, mixed greens and a roasted yellow pepper vinaigrette

Vegetarian Spring Rolls $9 Filled with miso, bok choy, glass noodles, bell peppers & hearts of palm and accompanied by a passion fruit and ginger dipping sauce

Tuna Tataki au Poivre $14 Wasabi avocado mousse and sous vide watermelon salad

Fish Tacos $14 Pineapple ginger Mahi Mahi, cabbage, radish, scallions, cilantro & a Mojito vinaigrette

Main course Lemon Roasted Golden Beet Salad $14 With apple, mixed greens, goats cheese, walnuts, horseradish vinaigrette

Duck Two Ways $28 Pan roasted duck breast, black currant jus, green pea, potato & bacon hash/ duck and ﬁg croquette, green bean, black olive & almond salad, chili aioli

Bar Fly Mac & Cheese $16 Trufﬂed gruyere cheese sauce, crispy prosciutto & a sundried tomato salad

Roasted Pork Tenderloin $25 Chinese inspired BBQ marinade, potato and corn egg roll, braised cabbage wonton, fennel slaw and a sake plum sauce

Duck Nachos $15 Hoisin roasted duck, white corn tortillas, black bean chipotle salsa& a wasabi sour cream

Dry Aged Black Angus Rib Eye $36 Mushroom and parmesan crusted rib eye, black trufﬂe jus, blue cheese potato pave, prosciutto wrapped asparagus, balsamic reduction

Moules Frites $16 PEI mussels, white wine garlic and herb broth & hand cut frites

Cocktail and Appetizer Lounge Tuesday-Saturday 6pm to Late

small eats, s,, big taste

The Dove Acclaimed Chef Travis Phillips Delectable French/Asian Cuisine The BVI’s Largest Wine List Open for dinner Tue-Sat 6 -10 67 Main Street Road Town

Champagne Happy Hour 5 - 7 pm

RSVP 494 0313

494 0313 Located on Waterfront Drive across from Road Town Ferry Terminal

www.bviguides.com | ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING BVI YACHT GUIDE DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010

Geoff Holt aboard Impossible Dream. Photos by OnEdition

Geoff Holt’s Very Personal Atlantic

by Traci O'Dea

"A wind blew, from what quarter I know not, but it lifted the half-grown leaves so that there was a flash of silver grey in the air." − Virginia Woolf, A Room of One's Own On a Tuesday in September, muffling wind off the english channel blows into Geoff Holt’s mobile phone, and I get a chill as I imagine the grey autumn scenery that surrounds him in Southampton, Uk. a mysterious gust riffles through my office in road reef Plaza. I feel the need to step outside and dip my toes in the Sir francis drake channel and warm my skin in the tropical sun. but Southern england is abuzz with activity, at least if you’re a sailor. Geoff’s busy week includes appearances in Weymouth, at the Skandia Sail for Gold regatta Southampton, and at the PSP Southampton boat Show. The boat he plans to sail across the Atlantic, Impossible Dream, a 60-foot, specially equipped catamaran designed by Nic Bailey, designer of the London Eye, is on display at the show before it leaves for the Canary Islands where Geoff will meet it in December to make the journey from Lanzarote to Cane Garden Bay. In his autobiography, Walking on Water, Geoff describes Cane Garden Bay as “an idyllic sandy beach with turquoise waters.” He continues, “It was my

had broken his neck and left Cane Garden Bay in an favourite spot on the island, and I could often be ambulance, never to walk again. That was twenty-five found there, relaxing under the shade of a palm tree.” years ago. Geoff had spent time in Tortola when, at age 18, he When Geoff, now 43, arrives in Cane Garden worked at The Last Resort in the winter to spring Bay at the end of December, he will be the first of 1984. After the season, he went home to the UK, quadriplegic sailor to have crossed the Atlantic, but he yearned to return to the BVI and was soon unaided, accompanied only by a non-sailing carer and offered an opportunity to come back when he was hired as first mate on a charter yacht. His dream of being the captain of a luxury On his second day on Tortola, a thrilled-to-beyacht in the Caribbean will finally be realized back Geoff wanted to show his favourite beach a cameraman. “I left there in an ambulance, and I’m to a friend from the UK, so they drove over the hill turning back up as the skipper of a yacht,” Geoff tells to Cane Garden Bay. Unable to resist the beckoning me on the phone. His dream of being the captain of waters, Geoff ran into the sea and dived head-first a luxury yacht in the Caribbean will finally be realized. into the shallow waves. Then he felt his neck break. This will be Geoff ’s fourth Atlantic crossing, but the “Fully conscious, unable to move, holding my breath, first one since his accident. “It took seven years after eyes wide open, staring at the sandy bottom only the accident before I got in a boat again,” Geoff says. inches below my face, shafts of daylight piercing the “I’d shut sailing out of my life. It was like a bereavement. water all around me...Instinctively, I tried to turn When I started sailing again, the first time I was in myself over but realised that I could not. No matter the boat, I felt that I had left my disability behind on how hard I tried, I could not make any part of my the jetty.” In 2007, Geoff was the first quadriplegic body move,” recalls Geoff in his autobiography. He

DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010 BVI YACHT GUIDE ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING | www.bviguides.com

sailor to sail single-handed around Great Britain. According to his blog on www.geoffholt.com, Geoff began thinking about crossing the Atlantic after the circumnavigation of the UK, but I have a feeling that he started thinking about it during his journey, on those long, solo sailing days from port to port. The overriding emotion I sense from Geoff about his upcoming trip is one of excitement. Sure, he tells me about the challenges of the voyage, but he honestly doesn’t seem that worried about them. “Sleep deprivation while being at sea for three weeks,” says Geoff. “That’s not something you can train for. And then there’s the weather. That’s always an unknown.” But mostly Geoff focuses on his eagerness at being out on the open sea. “I like the solitude,” he says. “You realize how insignificant and small we are

Geoff at the controls

memories of the place whatsoever, even though it’s where I had my accident.” Though Geoff calls the trip his “Personal Atlantic,” the journey is far from a self-serving, ego-building endeavour. His crossing will raise funds for the Ellen MacArthur Trust as well as inspire future sailors. Geoff admits that he returned to sailing “for selfish reasons—I wanted to go sailing again,” he says, “but things have changed. "I have no sad memories of the place...even This whole sailing part of my life has though it's where I had my accident." changed. In some small way, it’s helping other people. It’s challenging people when floating on a piece of plastic in the middle of to look at their lives.” Geoff began working with Princess the ocean,” he says. The solitude does not extend to Anne and Sailability in 1995. “It’s a wonderful charity,” says other life forms, though. “Every time I’ve crossed, I’ve Holt. “In the UK alone, there are over 20,000 disabled seen whales, dolphins, marine life. People think it’s sailors. Disabled people get a sense of freedom being on a big, blue desert, but it’s not. It’s a whole different the water.” He considers himself lucky that he gets to sail world out there.” He is excited, also, to sail back into and promote sailing for all. “I’m almost embarrassed that Cane Garden Bay. “The thoughts of arriving in those I continue to get pleasure and it’s helping other people, beautiful, blue waters. It’s paradise. I have no sad too. I’m a very lucky man.”

I’m hesitant to ask Geoff about his future, considering he hasn’t yet begun his crossing, but I have a feeling he’s already making plans. “I am looking that far ahead. I wouldn’t normally admit to that,” he says. He explains that he would like something more constant than the spikes of activity he’s experienced the last few years. “I have to start from scratch again, and I don’t want to. I can’t take sailing out of my life. If you do that, you take away my spirit. I might want to do some racing,” he muses “I love the idea of being a sports ambassador or maybe doing commentating on sailing.” I ask what his ideal would be, keeping with the idea of something more permanent. “I feel like I’d like to have a sailing school to teach people to sail and race. Some place on the beach.” Maybe the BVI, I suggest as another gust blows into his phone. “Now, that’s a good idea.” YG To follow Geoff ’s journey, visit www.geoffholt.com

Geoff’s Tentative bVI Schedule December 27: A welcome flotilla including all Sailability BVI & Special Olympics BVI Athletes.

January 2: The Holt Family and Governor David Peary and his family sail Impossible Dream to Cooper Island.

December 27: Fundraising party at Myett’s Cane Garden Bay where Geoff and his family will be staying. Ticket proceeds go to Geoff's choice of causes and to Sailability BVI.

January 3: Casual Beach Barbeque and Jam Session at Elm's Beach Bar in Cane Garden Bay. January 5: Cocktail party at the Governor’s House for Geoff ’s invited guests.

December 31: Joint meeting of the three BVI Rotary clubs at Mariner’s Inn at The Moorings where Impossible Dream will be on display. Geoff will help to christen three Squibs Hope, Faith and Charity.

January 7: Geoff to speak at St Thomas Rotary Club.

www.bviguides.com | ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING BVI YACHT GUIDE DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010

Scrub Island Old carIbbean cHarM UnITeS WITH UnderSTaTed MOdern daY lUXUrY by Owen Waters

Scrub Island, a tropical paradise in the british Virgin Islands first discovered by christopher columbus nearly 500 years ago, beckons to explorers in search of the wonders and adventures that come with an untouched private island retreat. now, with the debut of the first bVI resort in more than 15 years, the Scrub Island resort Marina and Spa invites travelers to once again enjoy the bVI’s stunning natural beauty along with spectacular suites, gourmet culinary creations, a unique spa and a full-service marina. More than five years in the making, Scrub Island resort is a carefully planned 230-acre development by the Tampa, florida-based Mainsail development. Over the summer, I was invited to tour the island and get an inside look at the luxury development. developers clearly paid meticulous attention to every last detail, ensuring that guests can find a haven from the outside world but still vacation in luxury and remain connected (if they so choose) with state-of-the-art technology. during my visit, 400 workers toiled in the sun to put the finishing touches on the impressive resort. Scrub Island’s marina offers 53 deep-water berths available for long term, or transient docking, including vessels up to 150 feet in length. This premier marina offers a host of amenities including metered electricity, 18

Wi-Fi, black water pump-out station, fuel, laundry facilities and concierge services. Just steps from the marina are the Scrub Island Marina Village, centrally located in the heart of the resort. The village offers upscale restaurants, shops, lounges and a gourmet provisions store. As the closest marina to the famous North Drop, where anglers from all over the world seek prizewinning Blue Marlin, guests may choose to book fishing expeditions directly from the marina. Guest rooms and suites feature stunning views of the sweeping waters between Scrub Island and the Island of Great Camanoe. Decorated to evoke the feeling of old world Caribbean elegance, guests are pampered with king-sized beds adorned with soft cotton sheets, down bedding, flat screen televisions, and bamboo ceiling fans. Suites feature gourmet kitchens, granite countertops, and appliances of the

DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010 BVI YACHT GUIDE ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING | www.bviguides.com

highest quality such as Wolf professional ranges and Sub-Zero refrigerators. Natural stone floor, carved wood furniture and luxurious fabrics mix with decorative accents from the natural world to create a soothing blend of traditional, natural and comfortable. As I chat with Resort General Manager Bill Lee, a key word that arises is “interaction.” Here at Scrub Island, guests are invited to explore and discover as they desire. Careful research has gone into what is appealing to Caribbean travelers and visitors – and Scrub Island Resort has put this research to good use making available activities and services that will fulfill your every wish. “Guests can choose their experiences at Scrub Island – whether it be exploring the island’s natural beauty, sampling exotic culinary creations or getting pampered at the spa – and they can do so in their desired format and on their schedule,” Bill says. “We

Photo by Yacht Shots.

Interior photos by Yacht Shots.

are proud of what we are doing, and we want to share it with everyone.” Snorkeling and diving are bound to be in popular demand, especially with the nearby gorgeous Diamond Reef as well as the natural beauty offered by Scrub’s shores. Dive BVI is to head up the dive operation and will offer charter tours and full training for dive certification. Kayak tours, day boat rentals, mountain biking, and tennis lessons are also available. Guests in need of pampering can make an appointment at the spa, which will offer massages, body and facial treatments and salon services. Or, guests can take a swim in the large, tropical multi-level pool, which features a 15-foot waterfall and swim-up bar. Exploring the island is, of course, high on the to-do list of all guests. Webcams placed close to bat and birds’ nests allow onsite conservationists

to monitor developments. We also marvel at the turtle conservation area on the island’s north shore. Impressive, I think, considering that some of our own wildest beaches also need this kind of attention. The resort offers several upscale dining establishments. The one-of-a-kind Caravela, which overlooks the ocean and nearby Turtle Beach, features Old World European dishes as well as Caribbean Classic creations. Tierra! Tierra!, so-named for the lookout on the Pinta who found land and cried “Tierra! Tierra!” (Land! Land!), offers wine by the glass, fresh cocktails and after-dinner drinks as you bask in the elegant atmosphere and spectacular views of Turtle Beach and Trellis Bay. Aliseo, which is Italian for the tradewinds that breeze across the Caribbean, offers Mediterranean and Caribbean grilled www.bviguides.com | ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING BVI YACHT GUIDE DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010

cuisine. The One Shoe Beach Bar and Grill, known for its more casual atmosphere, offers live music, cookouts and tasty meals all designed to sweep guests into the intoxicating Caribbean atmosphere. As our visit closes, I watch the sun set over Camanoe, the calm waters shift from blue to green, and the brilliant blue sky streak with flashes of red. We found every member of the staff to be relaxed, confident and utterly charming as well as refreshingly excited about the project. When I glanced through the team profiles, I was pleased to discover a group of hardworking professionals, all with a fitting passion for wildlife, the Caribbean and the sea. I hope you enjoy your visit to Scrub Island Resort Marina and Spa – whether you’re a proud boat owner or whether you’re treating yourself and crew to a day trip or overnight stay. Mainsail Development is bringing the highest standards in excellence and service to this breathtaking project. And, with the welcoming approach of Scrub Island Resort, it is destined to immediately become an integral part of charter routes and day trips so that everyone can enjoy its facilities. To begin exploring uncharted luxury at Scrub Island resort, email reservations@mainsailhotels.com, call (877) 890-7444 or visit www.scrubisland.com .

DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010 BVI YACHT GUIDE ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING | www.bviguides.com

Kuralu's stunning spinnaker

Captain Gary and Noah, future crew

Days Out: Kuralu by Traci O’Dea with Gary Cottreau

Gary cottreau, captain of Kuralu, is friendly and calm with a soothing manner of speaking that is reminiscent of the lulling waves of a peaceful day sail. Gary lacks the attributes of a stereotypical “crusty sailor”; instead, he’s as sincere as a favourite uncle and as knowledgeable as an esteemed professor. He loves his job, and he is clearly thankful that he gets to spend his days doing what he loves. Gary grew up around the water in Wedgeport, nova Scotia, a renowned acadian fishing village which, according to the Wedgeport Sport Tuna fishing Museum’s website, once welcomed such famous visitors as US President franklin roosevelt, amelia earhart and ernest Hemingway. from Wedgeport, Gary moved to Stuart, florida, in the Treasure coast, to attend the chapman School of Seamanship. He first came to the BVI 18 years ago via Halifax, where he worked on a day sail charter boat that spent its winters in Tortola. Gary followed the boat between the two locations until he decided to move

and they tend to recommend us a lot more. And they to the BVI full time. After working on a few different come back themselves. It’s not a big party boat. It’s a boats, both for charter companies and on private little more relaxing than that.” They also specialize in yachts, Gary met his wife, Clare, who sailed across the private charters such as weddings groups, birthdays Atlantic and came to Tortola to do her Divemaster and staff parties, or even something as simple as a course. At the time, he was captaining a private, 77friends and families visiting from out of town. foot trawler, so he hired her as crew. They had a son, Guests have a few options for their day on Kuralu. Noah, a few years later. “We were working on the The first, which involves more beach time, includes a private yacht, which was good, and Noah came with sail to Sandy Spit for snorkelling or lounging in the sun, us. At 15-months old,” Gary tells me, “he had 6,000 then a sail over to White Bay, Jost van Dyke, for more logged sea miles.” beach time and drinks at one of the famous White But Gary and his family decided they needed more Bay bars. The second option is a trip to Norman time on land, so they were excited when Kuralu became Island, a longer sail available. Gary with snorkelling reprised his role as a On the way back from Norman, the at the Caves, the day sail captain, the spinnaker goes up, allowing guests to Indians or other same occupation experience and speedier and shadier sail nearby reefs. On that originally the way back from brought him to the Norman, the spinnaker goes up, allowing guests to BVI, but this time, he and his wife own the boat and the experience a speedier and shadier sail home. business. “It’s something I’d done for years,” Gary says, For any trip on Kuralu, all food and drinks are included “but it’s kind of different doing it for yourself.” in the price of the sail. Drink options are rum punch, beer, In 2010, Kuralu will celebrate its twentieth soda and water. Lunch consists of a gourmet spread anniversary of providing unforgettable experiences of homemade quiches, fruits, meats, salads , cheese to visitors and residents of the British Virgin Islands. plate, coleslaw and Kuralu’s famous smoked fish dip, all Kuralu is a 50-foot catamaran that takes up to twelve prepared fresh each morning by Gary’s wife Clare. guests to Sandy Spit and White Bay, Jost van Dyke or “It’s pretty nice,” Gary says, “when you have a job Norman Island. The boat can accommodate more where, at the end of the day, you have guests who than twelve guests, but, as Gary says, “We do like to say, ‘This was the best day of my vacation,’ and this is a keep the numbers small. The people like it so much pretty good place to come on vacation.” YG more than going on the boats with more people,

Guests enjoy quality time on and off the boat www.bviguides.com | ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING BVI YACHT GUIDE DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010

SKIPPER’STIPS Secrets of the kaptinz klub by David Blacklock

When editor Owen suggested I divulge some favourite anchorages and tips and tricks for getting around the BVI, I must confess that I felt a shiver of apprehension. Might I be drummed out of the Kaptinz Klub for unauthorized tittletattle? Later, when I asked a few friends for some of their best hints and suggestions (since I didn't want to be in this mess alone), my worst fears were verified. The Kaptinz Klub was not about to Ko-operate. I was on my own. nothing unusual about that. I did manage to enlist a couple of renegades to the cause, and here follows a random selection of information that could be of assistance to a navigator in need. When sailing around the Virgin Islands, it is essential to know where you are. And saying “the Virgin Islands,” whilst accurate, is incomplete. Some years ago when I was press-ganged into servitude on one of the biggest charter bases, I had the task of taking new charterers out on a test sail. Generally these were routine ticket clippings, but now and then one would stick out. Such as the gentleman who did seem to know it all and after a quick round of “Yep”s and “OK”s, I got off the boat and left him to it. He demanded my phone number which I reluctantly surrendered. Not three hours had passed before I got a call. “Dave,” he said. “Where the hell am I?” Well, I couldn't tell him that, so I asked him had he turned left or right when he hit the Sir

Francis Drake Channel? “Hmm,” he said. “Not sure.” He thought he was close by Cane Garden Bay, but he was really in Coral Bay in St John. In order to avoid such an occurrence happening to you, here a few tips to help you along. Most boats come equipped with a small round dome in which sits a circular card on which are

this article, we're going to discuss some less-used spots and some aspects of the more popular areas that might not be general knowledge. Charter captain Kris Van Wissen says, “In Great Harbour on Peter Island, there's an often overlooked area to anchor, just off the northeast point, on the shelf, about 30 feet deep. Great

Explore, poke around, but be sure to check your compass, check your chart and try to remember whether you took a right or a left past the channel markers. embossed a series of numbers and a repetitive collection of small black vertical marks. This is a compass, and it will help you figure out the direction your boat is heading. Please make a note of it. The anchorages most suitable for bareboaters are well documented in the various guidebooks and often mentioned by the charter companies themselves. In

DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010 BVI YACHT GUIDE ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING | www.bviguides.com

sunset and protection from wind coming down the Channel. Also, a short sail to base the next morning.” This is a good tip as there has been a reduction in the availability of decent anchoring spots since the opening of Ocean's 7. Another overlooked anchorage is White Bay on the south side of Peter Island. Most of the guide

books recommend anchoring close to the beach, but there is a long row of marker buoys clearing a swim zone about 100 yards from the beach, so you'll have to anchor outside the buoys in about 20-30 feet. It's a good spot unless the wind or swell have some south in them, then it can be lumpy. Across the Peter Island Passage, Benures Bay on the north side of Norman Island is a nice spot, too, but make sure you put out a second anchor if you're close in as sometimes the wind dies, and current can bring a vessel very close to shore. Jost Van Dyke is extensively covered, but there are a couple of anchorages at the east end, by Little Jost Van Dyke that bear mentioning. Just west of Green Cay, close against the shore, there are some sand patches with room for one or two boats. Depth is about 15 feet. You may need a second anchor to keep the vessel from swinging onto the rocks. A similar anchorage can be found in the lee of Beef Island by Bluff Bay—especially useful when there's a north swell rolling in. Trellis Bay is as well known as any anchorage, but it seems that not everyone is aware of the extent of the reef around the Last Resort. Sailors trying to work their way into the bay should be aware of the unmarked reef surrounding Bellamy Cay (the Last Resort). Charter captain Pete Clapp says he sees boats clipping the reef all the time. “Boats should make sure they stay to the south and east of the

last line of mooring balls by the reef,” he says. “Keep that line of balls between you and the reef, and you'll be okay.” Also, brush up on the requirements for transiting the area if the mast on the yacht exceeds 30 feet. Beef Island Tower monitors VHF Channel 10. Out on the east end of Virgin Gorda, there are any number of fine anchorages in out of the way spots. Some of these remain secrets, but others, such as Long Bay inside Mountain Point, offer fantastic spots for sunsets as well as having some fine snorkeling and peaceful anchorages when the wind is howling. Beware of the north swell though. It is possible to drop anchor close to shore and tie the boat off to rocks or trees on the shore. There are multiple anchoring opportunities around the Leverick Bay mooring field, too. Just be sure to stay clear of the moorings themselves. Similarly, there are anchoring opportunities close up to Prickly Pear Island inside the Saba Rock mooring field. For those who wish to take a Saba Rock mooring ball and get a tank of water and a bag of ice in the morning, take care to see that the ball you pick up is actually a Saba Rock ball and not one from the Bitter End. The BEYC balls are placed confusingly close to the Saba Rock field. There are many fine anchorages around the BVI, and sometimes it is worth bearing in mind that a safe anchorage may not always be a comfortable anchorage. There are some spots—Deadman's

Bay on Peter Island being a good example, Cooper Island another—where a persistent roll can cause some discomfort to crew, yet the boat may be perfectly safe. In some weather conditions, the distinction is worth making. Overall, though, a fine experience can be had by following the suggestions in the various guides. Just be aware that those suggestions aren't the only ones, nor are they necessarily complete. Explore, poke around, but be sure to check your compass, check your chart and try to remember whether you took a right or a left past the channel markers. YG

Upcoming Races BVI Schools Regatta Nanny Cay IC24 Nation's Cup Pusser's Round Tortola Race Carlos Aguilar Memorial Match Race

31 Oct - 1 Nov 14 - 15 Nov 21 Nov 2 - 6 Dec

O'Neal & Mundy Commodore's Cup & Prizes 19 Dec And if that's not enough, check out the forum on www.IC24.org for more weekly beercan racing action right off the southern end of Nanny Cay. IC24s are the new fad in racing and spreading fast to the rest of the Caribbean and North America.

www.bviguides.com | ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING BVI YACHT GUIDE NOVEMBER 2009

Photo by Charter Yacht Society

BVI Charter Yacht Show Breaks Records More boats, More brokers, More business Set against a backdrop of uncertain economic conditions, this year's bVI charter Yacht Society's annual show, its twenty-eighth, was a resounding success. With over 70 yachts and around 100 brokers attending, the show was bigger than any in recent years. Tim Schaaf of the Charter Yacht Society, and a charter yacht owner himself, was very pleased with the turnout. "This was the largest BVI Boat Show, ever,” Schaaf told YG. “More brokers and more yachts. Certainly the industry has stepped up to the plate, and we hope that this optimism will be rewarded by optimism, enthusiasm and bookings on the part of potential crewed charter guests.” One aspect of the show that created particular excitement was the Expo in the Park, wherein local vendors got a chance to show off their wares and a way to bring home to the people of the BVI the importance of the charter yacht industry to the

by David Blacklock

local economy. “The Expo in the Park, sponsored by the BVI Tourist Board, was a resounding success,” Mr. Schaaf said. “This is a direct reflection of how the crewed charter industry is intertwined with local businesses and the community, providing a tremendous amount of indirect, as well as direct, employment. We are grateful to all our sponsors and to the Expo vendors.” The large number of participants can be ascribed to the difficult conditions, as many boats that hadn't bothered to attend in previous years now felt the need to put themselves in front of the brokers. It's no secret that charter brokers are as interested in the crews as they are in the boats. Perhaps more so, since the personality of a good crew can overcome some limitations of the boat more easily than the reverse. The new boats tended to attract more attention than yachts with established reputations. One captain, who requested anonymity, told YG, “The

DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010 BVI YACHT GUIDE ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING | www.bviguides.com

brokers concentrated a lot on the new boats. I guess they know us by now and needed to spend time getting to know the newcomers.” Over in St Thomas, the USVI's equivalent showcase, the Virgin Islands Charteryacht League's 33rd Annual Charteryacht Show, was decidedly low-key. With only around 40 participating yachts, many fresh from the BVI show, the St Thomas expo paled in comparison. With such a strong turnout and with enthusiasm running high, the BVI can confidently expect to maintain her reputation as the charter yacht capital of the world.

bvi yachting directory RT

Road Town

Nanny Cay

Trellis Bay

East End

Soper's Hole

Sea Cows Bay

West End

Virgin Gorda

DIVING & ANGLING Dive Tortola (RT)

284-494-9200

MARINAS & YACHT CLUBS Nanny Cay Marina & Hotel (NC)

284-494-2512

Royal BVI Yacht Club (RT)

284-494-3286

Manuel Reef (SCB)

284-495-2066

REPAIRS & SUPPLIES Doyle Sailmakers BVI (RT)

barecats@surfbvi.com (EE) 284-495-1979 est. 1993 | Fleet size: 10 Sells boats: No Charters Boats: Yes Brand(s): Fontaine Pajot, Lagoon, Leopards, Island Spirit, Robertson & Caine, Privilege, Voyages Year Make: 1997-2005 Type(s): Catamarans BVI Yacht Charters (NC)

284-494-4289

Charterport (RT)

284-494-7955 pvc@provalorcharters.com (EE) 284-495-1931 est. 1993 | Fleet size: 16 Sells Boats: Yes Charters Boats: Yes Year Make: 1993 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2006 Brand(s): Beneteau, Jeanneau, Fountaine Pajot power and sail, Lagoon Type(s): Sail & Power Cats and Monohulls

284-494-2569

Marine Depot (BVI) Inc (RT)

284-494-0098

Quantum Sails (BVI) Ltd. (NC)

284-494-1124

RESTAURANTS & PUBS Pisces Restaurant (SH)

284-543-6724

Jolly Roger (WE)

284-495-4559

charteryachtsales.com (RT) 284-494-4868 est. 1986 | Fleet size: 46 Sells Boats: Yes Charters Boats: Yes Brand(s): Beneteau, Jeanneau, Lagoon, Leopard, Norseman, Island Spirit, Athena, Hunter Year Make: 1996-2004 Type(s): Sailboat Cats and Monohulls

YACHT CHARTERS & BROKERS

123hulls.com (RT) 284-499-0591 est. 2007 | Sells Boats: Yes Charters Boats: No Brand(s): Non-Specific Year Make: Non-Specific Type(s): Non-Specific Number of brokers: 3

bvicrewedyachts.com (RT)

patouche.com (TB) 284-494-6300 est. 1991 | Fleet size: 6 Sells Boats: No Charters Boats: Yes Brand(s): Peter Spronk, Sea Ray, Privilege, Beneteau Year Make: 1976-2006 Type(s): Sail & Power Cats & Monohulls

Double D Charters (VG)

284-499-2479

Footloose (RT)

284-494-0528

horizonyachtcharters.com (NC) 284-494-8787 est. 1998 | Fleet size: 36 Sells Boats: Yes Charters Boats: Yes Brand(s): Bavaria, Jeanneu, Beneteau, Fontaine Pajot, Lagoon Year Make: 2002-2009 Type(s): Sailboat Cats and Monohulls

Racing in Paradise (NC)

284-494-6781

Sail Bravura (RT)

284-443-2586

Southern Trades (RT)

284-494-8003

Sunsail (EE)

888-416-8420

The Moorings (RT)

888-416-8420

TMM (RR)

800-633-0155

Tortola Yacht Sales (RT)

284-494-2124

FOR SALE: RAKU 30' custom Bradley powerboat Contact Laura Dangelo at laura_dangelo47@yahoo.com

156 engine hours, twin 200HP yamaha engines Very low maintenance, excellent condition $50,000 FIRM price

284-494-6017

Representing the finest selection of luxury crewed charter yachts in the BVI.

www.bviguides.com | ALOOKINGGLASS PUBLISHING BVI YACHT GUIDE DECEMBER 2009 - JANUARY 2010