KNITmuch | Issue 11

KNITmuch

spiral rug · cowl · shawls · hats · scrunc hy · baby pullover · socks

...to K, is to

Issue 11

KNITTING with

Be Wool Wacki Saki Angora Lace Croquette Rainbow

* German short rows make socks look great! * How to Steek! * 1 sock yarn many gauges

KNITTING THE PERFECT INVISIBLE CIRCULAR CAST ON

* Deciphering Vintage Knitting Patterns

KNITmuch ...to K, is to

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ART DIRECTOR Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com ADVERTISING SALES John De Fusco John@KNITmuch.com PUBLISHER A Needle Pulling Thread PHOTOGRAPHERS John De Fusco, Carla A. Canonico, Contributors BLOGGERS/CONTRIBUTORS Cynthia MacDougall cgknitters.blogspot.com Charles Voth charlesvothdesigns.ca Cindy O'Malley cindooknits.blogspot.com Luke Gilligan woolenthusiast.com GRAPHIC DESIGN Carla A. Canonico Carla@KNITmuch.com Sondra Armas Sondra@KNITmuch.com SOCIAL MEDIA and WEB Sondra Armas Alejandro Araujo WEBSITE / BLOG : KNITmuch.com Like us on Facebook : KNITmuch Follow us on Twitter : @KNITmuchmag WHERE TO GET YOUR COPY KNITmuch is a quarterly eMagazine published by A Needle Pulling Thread. It is available free for personal use online at KNITmuch.com.

A limited number of printed copies of KNITmuch are available for purchase at select yarn shops and specialty stores. Ask for it at your local shop. KNITmuch is not available by subscription.

YARN SHOPS If you are interested in carrying KNITmuch in your store, please email John@KNITmuch.com.

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EDITORIAL Bloggers, designers and other contributors who would like to be considered for future issues please email Carla@KNITmuch.com with a brief description of your work and your proposed project. ©2020 KNITmuch. All rights reserved. Issue 11.

ISSN 2368-5913.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher.

All designs, patterns, and information in this magazine are for private, non-commercial use only, and are copyrighted material owned by their respective creators or owners.

KNITmuch 6 8 9 11 12 14 15 16 17 18 20 21 22 24 26 27 28 30 32 34 36 39 40 42 44 45 48

Big yarn + big needles = 1 big and cozy knitted spiral rug Knitting the perfect invisible circular cast on

The joy of knitting with big yarn and big needles Yarn Over with Be Wool add a stitch and a little magic A perfect ending to a perfect weekend of knitting with Be Wool Angora Lace unique fingering weight yarn, perfect for Syrah Cowl Syrah Cowl, swatching for gauge and casting on Why working the cables on the Syrah Cowl in Angora Lace is so yummy!

How a yarn’s characteristics influence the look of a knitted pattern Final thoughts about knitting with Angora Lace yarn Wacki Saki, not only a sock yarn One sock yarn, many gauges German Short Rows make socks look great!

Knitting a top-down baby sweater in Wacki Saki – 1 ball!

Knitting a rolled ribbing neckline Editor's Picks Red Heart Croquette yarn knits into a vibrant hair scrunchie Easy knit late summer stole – perfect – using Red Heart Croquette yarn Use cross-fading gradient yarns to knit a quick project Knitting an obtuse isosceles triangle shawl with one cake of Rainbow 1 cake of Red Heart it’s a wrap Rainbow knits up the Gothic Diffusion shawl Thoughtful Soles Patterns of Yore Deciphering Vintage Knitting Patterns Fearless Knitting: Steeking Making a Steek!

Standard yarn weights, abbreviations & terms

c o n t e n t s KNITmuch | issue 11

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Includes the Premier issue and the latest issue FREE for a limited time only!

P.S. If you've already downloaded our app, make sure you download our latest issue for FREE, for a limited time only… 4

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editor's Gosh, as I write this letter it's almost the end of 2020.

Quickly, a sense of relief washes over me, but just as quickly, I realize there are several cold winter months ahead, so I'll hold on. I'll hold on to positive thinking, staying connected with family and friends, and knitting.

My motto during difficult times is to keep busy since there's nothing I can do to reverse or obliterate the situation. Keeping hands and mind occupied helps me direct nervous energy, knowing that this too shall pass. We're almost there.

Steeking is another topic in this issue, encouraging you to be fearless with your knitting adventures, apparently, we need to try it at least once.

I'm happy to bring you knitting patterns for everyday life and essential tutorials that make your knitting professionally hand made. In this issue we're exploring Wacki Saki sock yarn in different gauges and stitch patterns. Making socks using German Short Rows isn't common, but the short rows make the socks look even better than ever.

Since we don't have anywhere to go, now might be a good time to try these crazy things out!

My favorite, and I hope it's yours too, is Fiona Stevenson's tip on knitting the perfect invisible circular cast on, making your project look professional.

Let us pray every day that we'll be able to hug our favorite people again sometime in 2021.

I also included one of my favorite topics, deciphering vintage knitting patterns. I've loved vintage patterns since I was a teenager (I know, totally odd for the '70s!), but going through some knitting magazines in my library I had found it difficult to even consider casting on! So, I really appreciate Cynthia MacDougall's tutorial on how to work with these.

Positivity is akin to a ball of beautiful yarn, let's not drop it!

Cheerfully,

Share the love of knitting. Own the obsession.

letter

I hope this letter finds you in good health.

follow me KNITmuch | issue 11

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Big yarn + big needles = 1 big and cozy knitted spiral rug

Fiona Stevenson

I’m stitching up a big, cozy rug using Be Wool by Universal Yarns, and a free knitting pattern by the Universal Yarn Design Team: Spiral Rug. This is a super bulky yarn and using big needles to knit it up you’ll enjoy this rug.

Fall is here, and winter is not far behind.

It’s time to make our homes cozy, especially this year when so much of our lives are lived indoors. With this in mind, I wanted to knit a soft, warm rug to add coziness to my place. I also needed something I could knit up quickly, as my late summer early fall has been filled with preparing kids to return to school and filling my pantry with homemade preserves. This has left me with very little knitting time.

Super bulky Be Wool makes the Spiral Rug soft and cozy. It feels lush when knitting.

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Enter the Spiral Rug pattern from Universal Yarns. I knew I could knit this pattern up in just a weekend because it is designed with super bulky yarn and big needles. The pattern calls for Clean Cotton Big which is made primarily of cotton (obviously), but since I wanted to add warmth to my home I decided to use Be Wool instead. It has an acrylic and wool blend that makes it sumptuously toasty while also keeping it machine washable (especially if used as a rug). Win-win! I chose the color Pistachio (111) because I hadn’t quite decided if the rug would be used in my bathroom to warm up the wood floors, or to be placed in front of my fireplace for Snowy – my husky/lab rescue pup – and me to cuddle up in front of a crackling fire to read. I needed the color to be neutral, but I did want some color, not just black, white, or grey. Pistachio has a

very subtle green tone, so it was perfect in either place. Just a little color theory, green is actually considered a neutral in the color palette and can usually be matched up with any color palette. I ended up using almost 3 balls (94 yards/ball) of Pistachio Be Wool to complete my rug.

The needles for the Spiral Rug are US Size 15 [10mm] UNIQUE KNITTING Double Point, and US Size 15 [10mm] UNIQUE KNITTING 16” and 23” circulars. Big needles for big yarn made this project fly off the needles onto my floor in no time at all. The only other supplies you’ll need to make this project is Clover jumbo stitch markers, a pair of small scissors, and a UNIQUE yarn needle. When it comes to stitch markers, I prefer the locking ring stitch markers. They look kind of like safety pins, so when I accidentally knit one of my stitch markers into my work (which I still occasionally do despite my years of experience) I can simply open the stitch marker and remove it.

These are also useful to place as progress keepers.

If you haven’t heard the term before, a progress keeper is placed into a stitch at the beginning of your knitting session. It allows you to see how much you’ve accomplished which is great motivation for when you hit a black hole of knitting (Black Hole of Knitting: when you knit for hours and hours, but every time you measure your work you get the nearly same measurement). I also have a preference for a Bent tip Darning Needle to sew in my ends. I don’t have any logical reason for it, I just find them easier to work with for some reason

Knit The Spiral Rug with Be Wool Yarn and a free pattern from Universal Yarn

So, now you have everything you need to start your own Spiral Rug. Now go work up a gauge swatch if you like. I went rogue, and just jumped in without one!

Photos by Fiona Stevenson

Clover Jumbo Locking Ring stitch markers help keep the Spiral Rug on track.

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Knitting the perfect invisible circular cast on Using super bulky yarn and big needles this project is a quick and cozy knit that can warm up your home decor with just a weekend of knitting.

I’m showing you how to cast on the Spiral Rug with a magical circular cast on that closes up the hole at the center for a professional finish to this rug. The Invisible Circular Cast On is accomplished using only knitting needles unlike the Emily Ocker cast on that requires a crochet hook. Though I know most knitters have a crochet hook handy, I thought there might be a few purists out there who only work with knitting needles, so I created a video to show you how to accomplish an invisible cast on without a crochet hook.

Knitting the circular Spiral Rug by Universal Yarn with the perfect invisible cast on gives a professional look to the finished rug.

I used a circular needle for my video, but you can cast on your stitches with your double point needles. Once you have cast on the stitches required you can divide them evenly onto US Size 15 [10mm] Knitter’s Pride Basix Birch Double Point to begin knitting in the round. As I said in the video, you will want to knit about ten rounds before tightening the circle hole of your cast on.

In fact, you can wait until the project is finished to pull the tail of the cast on.

Just remember once it’s tightened it’s very hard, if not impossible, to loosen it, so tighten it slowly. If you tighten it too much you can create a kind of nipple effect in the center.

Not to worry if you do! I went a little too tight on my center but was able to block it out flat again. Still, I recommend not pulling the center circle too much if you can avoid it.

I hope this tutorial helped you start your own Spiral Rug off right.

The Invisible Circular Cast On makes a perfect start to the Spiral Rug. A perfect beginning to a wonderful rug!

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T he joy of knitting with big yarn and big needles Super-size your knitting to maximize your time and comfort!

I’m pausing this project to consider the joys of working with chunky, bulky, and super bulky yarn. If knitting with big yarn and big needles isn’t something you usually do, I’d like to push you out of your comfort zone, and into the super cushy zone.

I don’t know about you, but I often get trapped in an endless loop (pun intended) of using lightweight yarns with complicated patterns. That’s been my habit lately. So, when KNITmuch offered me the opportunity to work with a super bulky yarn I was relieved! I’d been feeling when knitting lightweight yarns like I was knitting all the time and getting nowhere. Be Wool was such a nice change, and I knew I could finish an entire rug on a weekend. Yeah, you heard me right! One weekend – project done even with an added garter stitch border. The Spiral Rug reminded me why it’s fun to dive into the world of big yarn from time to time.

What is a bulky yarn exactly?

I often get asked questions about yarn weights and sizes. Bulky weight yarn isn’t as common as some of the medium weight yarns like worsted or aran. Just in case you didn’t know what a bulky, super bulky, or jumbo weight yarn is, here some descriptions: This information is from the Craft Yarn Council’s Standard Yarn Weight System.

Bulky (Chunky) Yarn

The term chunky or bulky is used to describe a #5 size yarn. It’s about the size of two strands of light worsted weight (#3) held together. Using the recommended needle size US 9 -11 [5.5-8mm] – it has a gauge of 12 to 15 stitches to knit 4”.

Super Bulky

Using the recommended needle size US 11-17 [5.5-8mm] it has a gauge of 7 to 11 stitches to knit 4”. Be Wool, the yarn for the Spiral Rug pattern is super bulky.

Jumbo

This is the largest yarn available and is usually only knit into blankets. You can see some in the foreground of the photo above. It has a gauge of 6 stitches or fewer per 4” of knitting on needles size US 7 [12.5mm] and larger.

These days who has time to knit?!

These days even the simplest tasks take a lot more time and effort. Since the spring I’ve been finding my energy low, and my knitting time-limited. Enter the super bulky yarn projects!

Whether it’s a chunky pair of reading socks, an oversized cowl, or a quick throw; my time is maximized with big yarn and big needles. I can get all the satisfaction of a finished project with a fraction of the time. And let me tell you with so much of my life up in the air right now it’s grounding to accomplish something.

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I’m a busy woman – my knitting time is limited.

The satisfaction of a knitting project finished, and put into use, has been comforting. When I can’t squeeze more time out of my day, I can maximize the time I have with bulky yarn projects.

And I hate to mention it, but Christmas isn’t that far off. Can you see last-minute quick bulky knit gifts under the tree? Use the large size of your yarn and needles to help you destress your knitting life!

Up the coziness when you upsize your yarn

Of course, the other great benefit of working with a big yarn like Be Wool, is that any project you make will have an increased coziness factor. The super squishy warmth of bulky knits is perfect as days get cooler, and winter approaches. There’s nothing like slipping on a squishy pair of chunky knit slippers or reading socks as you cozy up under a big wool hand knit blanket. Let the softness of these large stitches cushion your life as you settle into fall and await the first snow of winter.

Add extra warmth and coziness with big yarn.

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Well, that’s it really. If you want to maximize your knitting and create super luscious cozy knits, why not explore the world of bulky yarns. One last note: fashion trends have been towards super bulky knits.

Everyone is getting cozy in bulky yarn! Now you can, too with Be Wool!

Big yarn, like this Fibra Natura Kingston Tweed held double, knits up quick and easy

Yarn Over with Be Wool add a stitch and a little magic

I hope your Spiral Rug‘s Invisible Circular Cast On is coming along, or maybe you’re still waiting on your order of Be Wool to arrive in the mail. Either way, this post will help make your work a little easier. First, I’ll share some advice on stitch marker placement.

Then I’ll show you how to do the simple knit Yarn Over (YO).

Besides the knit stitch, the Yarn Over is the only skill you need to complete this pattern.

Set the stitch markers right

Setting up your stitch markers for this rug is simple, but I’ll walk you through it just to make sure you’re on the right Use the right gear – track. First Clover Jumbo Locking Stitch Markers of all, you need jumbo stitch markers, I use the Clover brand. The markers should say on the package that they are big enough for US 15

[10mm] or larger needles, as they come in a couple of sizes. You’ll need 5 stitches of one color, and one stitch of a different color. I used 5 orange stitch markers, and 1 blue stitch marker as in the photo below. The pattern adds the stitches on the first round after the set-up row.

Rnd 1: *K1, yo, pm; rep from * to end – 6 sts inc’d, 12 sts.

I added the orange stitch markers to the first five “pm” (place marker) spots then added the blue one on the last “pm”.

The orange stitch markers now show you where the yarn overs will be. The blue marker now marks the last YO of this round and the beginning of your round.

Once you slip the blue stitch marker you’ll be starting your second round.

WARNING WILL ROGERS! (a reference only we old-timers will get) – make sure your yarn over BEFORE you slip your stitch marker. Also, keep an eye to make sure your stitch marker

Knitting a Spiral Rug is easy…with a little help!

hasn’t slid under a yarn over stitch. It’s not very usual for that to happen with these large stitch markers, but I wouldn’t put it past ‘em to try! They can be slippery little buggers!

Yarn over – add a stitch ...and a little magic

This simple stitch is a foundation stitch for lace since it creates a pretty, lacey hole in a knit design.

It also is an easy way to create a single increase. It’s the humble Yarn Over that makes this rug grow and shows off its spiral shape. Making a Yarn Over is easy! Here’s how it’s done: • Bring the working yarn between the tips of your needles from the back of your work to the front.

• Then lift this yarn over your right-hand needle to return it to the back.

• Knit the next stitch as normal.

You should now have an extra stitch on your right-hand needle.

That’s your Yarn Over stitch. If you prefer to see how it’s done, here’s a quick video.

So, there you go! Now you’re ready to finish knitting your Spiral Rug.

Stitch markers set up right

These pretty Yarn Over stitches create lacey holes and help grow the Spiral Rug.

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A perfect ending to a perfect weekend of knitting with Be Wool I’ll be teaching you how to add a simple, elegant garter stitch border to your rug before binding off. When that is finished, I’ll show you how I blocked my rug so it sits perfectly in front of my fireplace.

Hopefully, you’ll have a gorgeous, soft, elegant rug to cozy up your home, too!

How to knit a classic garter stitch border

I wanted to add a few extra rounds to my own Spiral Rug to give it a nice elegant finish. Because the yarn was of such a generous size, and the loops of the stitches nice and loose, I didn’t feel the need to continue the yarn overs after I finished the final round of the pattern. I hoped that the rug would have enough stretch after I added the border, and I was right. Yay me! It’s always nice to have a knitting victory.

The garter stitch border that I added after the last round of the pattern, but before the bind off went like this: • Purl one round Finish your Spiral Rug beautifully with an elegant garter stitch edge.

• Knit one round • Purl one round Bind off all sts very loosely. If you want an even looser edge use a US size 17 [12mm] needle to bind off.

It’s as simple as that but adds such a classic detail to this rug.

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Bringing it all together at the end

I think I mention this in every blog series I do, but I’ll say it again. To make your projects come alive, blocking is the key! This rug was simple to do, and proper blocking gave it a clean edge and a flat center. I mentioned in previous post when I was teaching you the Invisible Circular Cast On technique, that I pulled the center closed a little too tightly causing it to pucker in the middle as in the photo below.

In this photo you can see the puckering in the center of my rug before blocking.

This little oopsie nipple was dealt with easily by damp blocking my rug using my Knit Blockers and some blocking mats. When I say “damp blocking” I mean that I didn’t fully saturate the rug with water. I quickly dipped it in a bin filled with cold water and a little soap for woolens, swished it around briefly and lifted it out before it had absorbed a lot of water. I gently squished out the excess water, then rolled it in a towel to take even more of the water away. I ran my hand over the rug to make sure there weren’t any dry patches, and all the fibers were slightly damp to the touch.

I laid the rug out on my blocking mats. Starting from the center out I gently stretched the rug out trying to make the edges even. It was kind of like spreading pizza dough into a circle. I used five of the smaller Knit Blockers to hold the center down flat. I used the larger blockers to secure each one of the points of the spiral and at one point in between each yarn over section.

I adjusted the blockers to make the rug as round as possible then left it two days to dry. Yup, you heard me – two days! Be Wool is thick, luscious yarn. Even though it was just damp, and not fully saturated with water, it still took two days to make sure it was 100% dry. Now, it was extremely humid outside, so that made it longer to fully dry.

However, don’t cut back the drying time even if it takes longer than you’d like. Develop your patience, and you’ll be rewarded with a perfectly set rug that will look gorgeous in your home.

Now you can sit back, put on fire or pour a hot bath, and enjoy your cozy new rug. Happy Fall!

This is how I placed my Knit Blockers to block out my Spiral Rug.

The garter stitch border detail gives this rug simple elegance.

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Image of what Angora Lace in the colorway Merlot looks like worked up.

Image of Wisdom Yarns, Angora Lace in two different colorways. On top is Spice Tree and on the bottom is Merlot.

Image of what Angora Lace in the colorway Spice Tree looks like when knitted.

Luke Gilligan

Angora Lace, first impression

Choosing pattern to knit

I’m creating the Syrah Cowl in Wisdom Yarns Angora Lace! I’m so excited to share my experience of working with this luxurious yarn! Angora Lace is such a balanced and beautifully made yarn. My first impression was that it is soft and lofty like a Merino yarn, but it had the ‘halo’ of an alpaca or mohair, which from my experience is a difficult blend in which to find such balance!

Sometimes, I find myself working patterns that are not my style or in my comfort zone just because of the yarn I chose. For example, with the Angora Lace, the first thing I noticed that it’s a high twist, plied yarn. The more I knit the more I learn that every tiny detail about the yarn is important.

For example, the more twist or greater number of plies… the greater the stitch definition it will have when knit up. Therefore, using Angora Lace, I would knit patterns that incorporate intricate stitches and patterns that need a greater stitch definition to fully capture the essence of the design intended by the designer.

Angora Lace is made up of 60% Merino, 30% manufactured fibers-nylon, and 10% Angora. It is a plied yarn, and contrary to the name, it is a fingering weight.

This yarn will be so enjoyable and comfortable to knit with! I’ll be posting a series of posts in which I want to take you on my knitting journey, explaining the decisions I’ve made, and my thought process along the way!

Whenever someone asks why I knit, or what I find enjoyable about it, I explain it is like an adventure for me! Every project is a different experience, and I’m along for the ride! Now you might be asking, why I say, “I’m along for the ride”, well let me explain! When knitting, I find that the yarn defines every part of the knitting experience. It tells me what pattern to work, what needles to use, and what techniques to incorporate!

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Angora Lace unique fingering weight yarn, perfect for Syrah Cowl

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That’s why I chose to knit the Syrah Cowl. It incorporates ribbing, but the body of the cowl is fully cabled! This yarn will be perfect for cables, and since it’s a high twist, plied yarn, it will make each cable stand out perfectly! I chose to knit two cowls in different colorways. One is using Spice Tree which is a variegated yarn, with reds, pinks and brown hues. The other is using Merlot which is the color that designers used on the pattern page. I look forward to working with this yarn and bringing you along on the adventure with me!

Photos by Luke Gilligan

Syrah Cowl, swatching for gauge and casting on The reason I chose to knit the pattern twice, with contrasting colorways is to show how the look can change when using different styles of yarn. I have found that many people tend to stray away from using variegated yarns when knitting cables, they find that the cables aren’t as prominent as they would be if they used a solid color yarn. Personally, I love to knit patterns that incorporate cables in variegated yarn. I find that the variegation highlights different parts of the cables in a unique way.

Hopefully, I’ll be able to clearly demonstrate that in this article, since I’m working the same pattern in both a variegated and solid color! Let’s get started!

Swatching for Gauge The first thing I do when knitting a new pattern is a gauge swatch.

The gauge swatch tells me so much about the yarn and the pattern, not just what size needle to use. When I swatched with the Angora Lace for the first time, the first thing I noticed was how smoothly the yarn worked up. It slid across my fingers effortlessly and was incredibly soft to the touch! I knew this process was to be an enjoyable one!

Image of gauge swatch being worked in Angora Lace in the colorway Spice Tree.

Image of the Syrah Cowl ribbing, in the colorway Merlot.

When knitting cables, I have found that the yarn, not the cables themselves, is the most frustrating element to consider. With Angora Lace, this isn’t the case, the yarn isn’t difficult to work with, in fact, it’s a joy and I’m excited to continue knitting!

After swatching, I cast on the number of stitches needed to knit the pattern and started to work the ribbing! One thing I would recommend when knitting this pattern is to add stitch markers!

The ribbing is not a typical 2×2 or 1×1 rib, it’s a unique combination of 3×1 and 1×1 and sometimes can be easily miscounted and messed up! I would add stitch markers after each repeat so that you can keep track of what part of the ribbing you need to work. Other than that, the ribbing blew by and I’m absolutely loving the process of working with this yarn!

I’m a tight knitter, and so, when swatching I did have to go up a needle size to meet gauge, but other than that I had no issues with my gauge! The pattern is a circular pattern, and so usually it’s recommended to swatch in the round, but I didn’t. It’s easier for me to get to know the yarn when knitting flat, and not having to fuss with working in the round because gauge swatches use a small amount of stitches. Now, if this were a sweater or an item where the gauge is necessary, I would swatch in the round. This pattern, however, is a cowl, gauge isn’t as necessary because there’s so much ease already built-in. If my gauge is a little larger no one would notice.

One observation I have is that when Angora Lace is worked with or touched a lot, it does tend to pill. I believe it’s due to the angora.

This isn’t an issue for me, but for some it is. I also noticed the yarn does shed!

One of the other things that stood out about the yarn is how much drape and stretch it has. The drape to this yarn is immaculate and perfect for a cowl pattern allowing it to drape across the neck and display the stitch pattern perfectly!

This yarn is perfect for a sweater or hat, and I’m considering knitting a sweater with it!

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Why working the cables on the Syrah Cowl in Angora Lace is so yummy!

The cable pattern makes pretty tight cables, tight meaning there aren’t many rows in between the cabled rows, but this yarn is perfect for that. I found that it makes the cables more defined and it really differentiates between the ribbing and the cabled section, which was something I was worried about.

The Syrah Cowl is made up in 3 parts. You’ll cast on then work the initial ribbing, then knit the cabled body of the cowl and finally end with a ribbing section again. Again, I would recommend adding stitch markers to separate each repeat of the cabled pattern. I found that it can be easily miscounted and errors can be made quick!

Observations about the Cabled Pattern The cabled pattern incorporated in the Syrah Cowl pattern is a 12-stitch cable, straddled by two eyelet columns. I’m loving it! Personally, I prefer to work cables without a cable needle, but for most yarns, that’s very fussy and hard to do! Not for the Angora Lace! This yarn allowed me to work the cables smoothly, and not have to use a cable needle. Bonus!

Image of a knitting project of the Syrah Cowl using the colorway Spice Tree. Working the cabled section of the pattern.

Image of the cabled section of the Syrah Cowl, worked in the Merlot colorway.

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In the past, I’ve found that yarn with a halo, tends to blend everything together and it’s hard to tell the stitch pattern. As stated before, the Angora Lace is very balanced and seeing the stitch pattern in the Syrah Cowl pattern isn’t an issue!

Another observation I had when knitting the first cowl is that this pattern makes a very deep, lengthy cowl! It’s one of the longest I have knit. So, when knitting the second, I shortened it by half of the repeats. I felt like this allowed for the cables to be more prominent and defined, instead of rolled upon each other.

So, if you don’t like thick cowls and are considering knitting this pattern, I would recommend shortening it a little by a few repeats, as desired.

How a yarn’s characteristics influence the look of a knitted pattern After the cabled sections, I worked the ribbing again and then bound off. This is where I get worried, with any pattern I knit.

I have always found that some yarns have no give or stretch to them, and so when you bind off, it’s much tighter and smaller than the cast on. To fix this, I would usually go up multiple needle sizes and then bind off. Well, when doing this, I found that I shouldn’t have been worried about it being tight, because Wisdom Yarns Angora Lace has so much ease in it!

When I started to bind off, the bind off was so large that it was probably double the circumference of the initial cast on.

I ripped back and bound off again using the needle size called for in the pattern, and it was perfect.

This was shocking to me because I have found that yarns that aren’t superwash are stiff and do not stretch that much!

Again, Angora Lace yarn would be perfect for a sweater or fitted garment because it will have built-in ease, but also fit your body well!

Knitting the Syrah Cowl in the colorway Spice Tree, Wisdom Yarns Angora Lace. The knitter is starting the final ribbing and is about to bind off.

How the striping of the variegated Spice Tree colorway changes when knitting cables.

After finishing both the cowls, I wanted to talk about the differences I noticed with the two different colorways. As mentioned before, variegated yarns can change what is highlighted in stitch patterns, just because of how the colors work up. With this pattern, I wanted to demonstrate that for you!

You can see that using the variegated Spice Tree yarn, the small cables that make up the staghorn design are more prominent and stand out more, as if sectioned off. The colors define and highlight different parts of the cable as it’s worked up, and each part is unique but changes slightly as the variegation and striping continue.

If you look at the gauge swatch, the variegation is quite different and therefore changes the cable definition slightly. This is due to the fact that the gauge swatch is worked flat with fewer stitches and therefore the striping is not as spread out, as it is with the actual cowl.

I knit the cowl with the original color, Merlot, which is a rich tonal color, but I also knit one in Spice Tree, which is a variegated colorway. You’ll notice that the cables in the Merlot cowl, are highly defined and the staghorn design is quite prominent. I love the look of this, but I also love how the variegated yarn changed the look of the stitch pattern a little bit.

Again, this just demonstrates how yarn can change a pattern completely! I love how both came out and I hope it shows you that, if you step out of your comfort zone and change a pattern slightly by changing the yarn, you can have amazing results!

KNITmuch | issue 11

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Final thoughts about knitting with Angora Lace yarn

When looking at the fiber content, I was nervous about the angora blend. I have found that angora can overwhelm the pattern and ‘blend’ any pattern together with the halo it creates.

This was quite the contrary with this yarn! I found that the nylon content holds the angora and Merino together in such harmony, that it has some halo effect, but just enough to allow for the stitch patterns to be clearly defined.

The yarn is also amazingly soft.

With some angora blends, the yarns can be scratchy, but Wisdom Yarns Angora Lace feels like it’s 100% Merino. It’s perfect for any pattern that might have direct contact with skin, such as sweaters, hats, mittens or scarves!

Image of Angora Lace yarn in the colorway Spice Tree.

Image of the finished Syrah Cowl using Angora Lace yarn in the colorway Spice Tree.

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KNITmuch | issue 11

Image of a finished Syrah Cowl using Angora Lace in the colorway Merlot.

While working with the yarn, the process was so enjoyable. I found that the yarn slid with such ease over the needles as I knit, and it was soft to the touch! Sometimes, I find that when working cables my hands can get quite irritated because the yarn rubs and moves more than it usually does when working plain stockinette.

I didn’t have that issue when knitting these cowls!

There were only a few things that I observed that others could be frustrated by. The more the project is moved around or handled, the yarn does tend to pill. For some, that is frustrating, but I thought it made the halo of the angora more defined and blended together well with the pattern and was not an issue.

The yarn also tends to shed as you work with it! This doesn’t have any effect on the project or pattern itself, it’s more of a personal preference for some.

I highly recommend this yarn, and am quite interested in what it would look like worked up in a sweater! I hope you enjoyed coming along with me on this brief knitting journey. I hope I’ve inspired your work with this stunning Wisdom Yarns Angora Lace yarn in the future! Give it whirl with the Syrah Cowl!

Luke Gilligan

woolenthusiast.com

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19

Wacki Saki, not only a sock yarn No need for a ball winder or swift as Wacky Saki is already wound up on balls.

Charles Voth I’m excited to introduce you to Wacki Saki, a soft yet durable sock yarn that I’ve explored using both for socks and other projects, one of which will be the featured pattern.

Wacki Saki colorways, 8 in all, are applied with space dyeing to achieve a faus-jacquard look.

This 4-ply yarn is dyed after being spun to a decent twist, not too tight so that it feels harsh, but not too soft either.

Close-up of the Zany Viney colorway

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I, for one, am really impressed with this sock yarn.

It has a lovely hand, one of the nicest I’ve felt in a while. It is spun out of superwash Merino wool, rayon from bamboo, and nylon. The ratio is 50%, 25% and 25%, respectively.

Here is a closeup of Wacki Saki yarn untwisted so that you can see the 4 plies which still show how they hold the twist because they are curly. The dye, in this case, white, turquoise, and the yet unseen gray and black are applied after the yarn is spun.

The third picture is the Absurd Aqua colorway.

Wacki Saki must have been a fun project for the yarn colorists at Wisdom Yarns, who produced the yarn in beautiful muted and a few bright hues.

They also had fun naming the eight colorways with monikers such as Kooky Meadow (second picture), Silly Twilight & Absurd Aqua (pictured earlier), Crazy Tiger, Wild Woods, and Bonkers Bouquet.

We’ll look at some German short rows to make a short-row heel in a sock. I’ll compare the same yarn at different gauges so keep reading.

One sock yarn, many gauges You know how it goes with some sock yarns. They are twisted so tightly to help them be more durable or to keep the short fiber staple from pilling, or they are too loose, or just a single-ply yarn, and need to be knit tightly to keep them intact. Either way, these different twists don’t always lend themselves to knitting at different gauges.

The first project knit with Wacki Saki in my home was a little sweater for a baby boy; more on this towards the end of this feature. But for now, let's see the swatch. My wife, Pam, has become a sample knitter for my designs recently, and she volunteered to knit this baby sweater and worked up this swatch for me so I could design to the gauge she was going to knit at. Using a size 4mm needle, she knitted a 20 sts per 4″ swatch, and the faux Fair Isle look still works great in the center rows.

The top and bottom rows are in garter stitch to prevent curling.

This swatch, blocked, came to 26.5 rows per 4″ on US 6 [4mm] needles. Here’s the reverse side.

Wacki Saki sock yarn knit at a looser gauge with 4mm needles.

Wacki Saki sock yarn, knit on size 0 [2mm] needles

Working towards the toe shaping on this Wacki Sacki sock.

I also wanted to design some socks. I just cast on 56 stitches on two circular needles, size US0 [2mm], and started off. I haven’t knit with such small needles in a while, and well, at the gauge I got, I should have cast on quite a few more stitches to make a sock to fit an adult. These socks come in at 40 sts and 44 rows per 4″. The fabric is quite dense and would make for a very sturdy sock, but there is less give because of how tight I knit them.

I think they will outlast the child’s foot that’ll wear them at this size. The space-dyed effect is still lovely and the stripes are just a little wider.

After finishing the baby sweater, Pam thought it would be great to make herself a pair of socks because she liked the softness of Wacki Saki and the sturdiness.

But she doesn’t like to knit on tiny tiny needles much, so she worked 56 stitches as well, but on size US2 [2.75mm] needles.

Her gauge came to 31 sts over 4″ and 36 rows. The result is a very comfortable sock that has give and yet the ribbing grips her ankles well. Knitting on and off, she finished these ankle-length socks in 4 days.

Reverse stockinette stitch and garter stitch rows on a swatch knit on 4mm needles.

Photos by Charles Voth KNITmuch | issue 11

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German Short Rows make socks look great!

After experimenting with several needle sizes and Wisdom Yarn Wacki Saki, my wife and I each knit a pair of socks using German short row heels.

The faux Fair Isle patterns that work up with the space-dyed Wacki Sacki yarn look good at any gauge.

I wrote this pattern for 56 stitches and size 2US [2.5mm if you can find them, or 2.75mm] needles. You can either use one long needle and the magic loop method, 2 circular needles, or 4 dpns. It’s up to you.

The instructions aren’t written to favor one technique.

These are cuff-down socks, so you will need to be prepared to graft the toes. However, if you’re more of a toe-up person, these heels are completely reversible as long as you add the 4 stitches for the instep before you work the heels, and decrease them afterwards.

Watch video here.

Cast on 56 sts using cable cast on.

Work ribbing as follows: Round 1: [K1tbl, p1], rep between [ ] around.

Rep Round 1 11 more times.

Next: Knit for 1 inch.

At a gauge of 30 to 32 stitches per 4'', it’s possible to knit 4 ankle length socks out of one ball of Wacki Saki sock yarn.

Set-up Rounds for Short-Row Heel.

Rnd 1: K28, k2, m1, k24, m1, k2–58 sts on needle.

Rnd 2: Knit around.

Rnd 3: K28, k3, m1, k2, m1, k3–60 sts on needle.

Rnd 4: Knit around.

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Rnd 5: K30 and place these stitches “on hold” on waste yarn or a spare dpn, k28, turn leaving rem 2 sts on needle unworked.

KNITmuch | issue 11

Just 4 stitches are added to make a mini gusset before the short-row heels are knit.

Heel Rows

Row 1: Yarn should already be at front of work as this is purl side, slip first st purlwise (as if to purl), tug on yarn to the right and take over right-hand needle to the back, bring yarn up through both needle tips, give it one more tug, (this is known as the purl hitchstitch-abbrev: ph-st), purl next 25 sts, turn, leaving rem 2 sts on needle unworked.

Row 2: Bring yarn forward, slip st purlwise, tug on yarn to the right and take over the right-hand needle to the back, give it one more tug (this is known as the knit hitch-stitch-abbrev: khst), knit next 24 sts, turn, leaving rem sts on needle.

Row 3: Ph-st, p23, turn.

Row 4: Kh-st, k22, turn.

Row 5: Ph-st, p21, turn.

Row 6: Kh-st, k20, turn.

Row 7: Ph-st, p19, turn.

Row 8: Kh-st, k18, turn.

Row 9: Ph-st, p17, turn.

Row 10: Kh-st, k16, turn.

Row 11: Ph-st, p15, turn.

Row 12: Kh-st, k14, turn.

Row 13: Ph-st, p13, turn.

Row 14: Kh-st, k12, turn.

Row 15: Ph-st, p11, turn.

Row 16: Kh-st, k10, turn.

Row 17: Ph-st, p9, [purl into both strands of next hitch stitch (check the German Short Rows video for this)] 8 times, p1, turn, leaving 1 rem st.

Row 18: Kh-st, k17, [knit into both strands of next hitch stitch (check the German Short Rows video for this)] 9 times, k1, turn, leaving rem st unworked.

12 ankle length socks waiting to be knit out of Wacki Saki

Row 19: Ph-st, p19, turn.

Row 20: Kh-st, k11, turn.

Row 21: Ph-st, p10, p2tog-hitch, p1, turn.

Row 22: Kh-st, k11, k2tog-hitch, k1, turn.

Row 23: Ph-st, p12, p2tog (hitch), p1, turn.

Row 24: Kh-st, k13, k2tog(hitch), k1, turn.

Row 25: Ph-st, p14, p2tog(hitch), p1, turn.

Row 26: Kh-st, k15, k2tog(hitch), k1, turn.

Row 27: Ph-st, p16, p2tog(hitch), p2, turn.

Row 28: Kh-st, k17, k2tog(hitch), k1, turn.

Row 29: Ph-st, p18, p2tog(hitch), p1, turn.

Row 30: Kh-st, k19, k2tog(hitch), k1, turn.

Row 31: Ph-st, p20, p2tog(hitch), p2, turn.

Row 32: Kh-st, k21, k2tog(hitch), k1, turn.

Row 33: Ph-st, p22, p2tog(hitch), p2, turn.

Row 34: Kh-st, k23, k2tog(hitch), k1, turn.

Row 35: Ph-st, p24, (p2tog-hitch) twice, p1, turn.

Row 36: Kh-st, k26, (k2tog-hitch) twice, k1, do not turn.

Continuing in Rounds Rnd 37 ( joining): Knit the 30 sts that have been on hold from Round 5 of the heel set up, k2tog-hitch, k29.

Rnd 38: K31, k2tog, k24, ssk, k1–58 sts.

Rnd 39: Knit.

Rnd 40: K30, k2tog, k24, ssk–56 sts.

Rnd 41: Knit.

Row 42: K1, place marker for new beginning of round, knit rem sts.

Knit in the round until foot is desired length minus 1¼” [3 cm] for toe.

Next Row: K28, place 2nd marker for opposite beg-of-round marker, k28.

Begin Toe

Rnd 1: *SSK, knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog; rep from * once–52 sts.

Rnd 2: Knit.

Rep rnds 1 and 2 until 20 sts remain. Graft toe sts and weave in ends.

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Knitting a top-down baby sweater in Wacki Saki – 1 ball! materials • US 6 [4.25mm] circular needle or size necessary to achieve gauge. A 16” [40cm] circular is feasible, or a set of dpns but longer circular needles work for the magic loop method.

• 2 stitch holders • 4 stitch markers • 2 lengths of scrap yarn Top-Down Yoke

Cast on 86 sts, and, ensuring not to twist stitches, join to knit in the round.

Rnd 1: [K1tbl, p1], rep between [ ] around.

Rep Rnd 1 until work measures approx. ½” [1.5cm]

This is the 6-month size of the top-down Wacki Saki sweater.

Rnd 2: [K2, m1, k30, m1, k2, pm, k1, m1, k7, m1, k1, pm] twice. Markers indicate center of raglan faux seams–94 sts.

Rnd 3: Knit.

Rnd 4: [Knit to next marker, sm, k1, m1, knit to 1 st before next marker, m1, k1, sm] twice–98 sts.

Rnd 5 and every odd round: knit.

Wisdom Yarns Wacki Saki, a sock-weight, faux-Fair Isle, space-dyed yarn, is so soft that it’s perfect for a baby sweater. I designed this pattern at a looser gauge than one would think was okay to do with sock-weight yarn, but it works perfectly.

Little Mason is modeling this faux-Fair Isle top-down sweater knit out of less than ⅔ a ball of Wacki Saki in the Absurd Aqua colorway. One full ball should be enough to finish the larger of the three sizes.

Main Pattern Information

Finished chest sizes 18¾” (20¾”, 23“) [48 (53, 58.5) cm]: sizes 6mo, (9mo, 18mo) Instructions given for smallest size, instructions for other sizes given in ( ) if different.

Head Girth 17½″ [44.5cm] Length 15¾” (16″, 16½″) [40 (40.5, 41) cm] Gauge in st st in the round: 20 = 4″ [10cm], 26.5 rows = 4″ [10cm]

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The change in circumference between the body and the sleeves makes for a change in stripe width and placement of the space-dyed dots. Even though the sleeves are only fraternal twins, the whole sweater is very charming.

I added a little textural change along the fake raglan sleeves, but I don’t find that they are really all that helpful for the design so I’ve left them out. You can add any double moss stitch pattern 2 or 3 sts before and after each marker if you’d like.

Sizes 6mo and 9mo only

Rnd 6: Rep Rnd 4. 102sts Rnd 8: Knit.

Rnd 10: [K2, m1, knit to 2 sts before next marker, m1, k2, sm, k1, m1, knit to 1 st before next marker, m1, k1, sm] twice. 110 sts Rnd 12: Knit.

Rnd 14: Rep Rnd 4. 114 sts Rnd 16: Knit.

Rnd 18: Rep Rnd 10. 122 sts Rnd 20: Knit.

Rnd 22: Rep Rnd 4; (size 9morep Rnd 10). 126 (130) sts Rnd 23: Knit.

Size 9mo only

Rnd 24: Rep Rnd 10. 138 sts Rnd 25: Knit.

Size 18mo only

Rnd 6: [K2, m1, knit to 2 sts before next marker, m1, k2, sm, k1, m1, knit to 1 st before next marker, m1, k1, sm] twice. 106 sts Rnd 8: Knit.

Rnd 10: Rep Rnd 6. 114 sts

I just love how the space-dyed colors in Wacki Sakiwork into stripes and speckled sections.

Rnd 12: Knit.

Rnd 14: Rep Rnd 6. 122 sts Rnd 16: Knit.

Rnd 18: Rep Rnd 6. 130 sts Rnd 20: Rep Rnd 4. 134 sts Rnd 22: Rep Rnd 6. 142 sts Rnd 24: Rep Rnd 6. 150 sts Rnd 26: [K2, m1, knit to 2 sts before next marker, m1, k2, sm, knit to next marker, sm] twice. 154 sts Rnd 27: Knit.

Divide for sleeves & body Set-up Rnd: [K40 (44, 50), place next 23 (25, 27) sts on a stitch holder, with scrap yarn, cast on 7 (8, 8) sts] twice, removing all markers except last one to indicate beg of rnd. 94 (104, 116) sts for body.

Next 8 rnds: K around.

Shaping for hips

Rnd 1: [K47 (52, 58), m1] twice.

96 (106, 118) sts Rnds 2-7: K around.

Rnd 8: [K48 (53, 59), m1] twice.

98 (108, 120) sts K until body measures 6 (6¼″, 6½″) [15 (15.5, 16) cm] from armholes.

Ribbing

Rnd 1: [K1tbl, p1], rep between [ ] around.

Rep Rnd 1 until ribbing measures approximately ¾″ (1″, 1″) [2 (2.5, 2.5) cm] Bind off loosely.

Sleeve

Return sts from st holder to needle, undo provisional cast-on at underarm and place 6 (7, 7) sts on needle. Join to knit in the round. 29 (32, 34) sts.

Set-up Rnd: K around, working ssk at one edge of armhole sts to close gap due to stretching and k2tog at other edge of armhole sts. 27 (30, 32) sts.

K in the round, working one k2tog at underarm every 8th row, twice–25 (28, 30) sts.

Continue knitting in rounds until sleeve from armhole measures 4¼″ (4½″, 4¾″) [11.5 (12, 12.5) cm Work Ribbing as for body. Bind off loosely. Rep for other sleeve.

Weave in all ends.

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This ISN’T a rolled ribbed hem. This is bound off at the bottom of the sweater.

A rolled neckline makes this baby sweater a cinch to pull over the wearer’s head.

Mason loves his pullover, and it looks like it wasn’t a fuss to get it on.

Knitting a rolled ribbing neckline

You know how some cast on edges, no matter how hard you try, are just too tight? Even using yarns that have great elasticity, like Wacki Saki, isn’t always enough. Looser cast-ons, bigger needles, stretchy cast-ons, these do work, but not everyone likes the look of them. A work-around that I use are rolled necklines.

Okay…so I didn’t show you a photo of the rolled neckline. That’s coming right up. I just wanted to add another little side note that when you work top-down you’ll have to bind off loosely at the bottom of the body and sleeves so that it’s just as comfortable to get the rest of the sweater’s openings around the baby as the neckline. Another cool thing I discovered is that if you use a twisted rib, you don’t have to go down a needle size to make the ribbing cling tighter than the stockinette rows in between.

To work a rolled neckband you need to cast on with some scrap yarn that isn’t fuzzy or “sticky” so you can undo the cast-on edging without struggles or micro-tangles.

Then, work the twisted ribbing for twice as many rows as you want to show on the outside of the neck, plus 1 more row for turning.

End by working a WS row.

Then, undo the provisional cast-on and add the now-loose stitches onto a second needle that is a size smaller than what you used to knit the ribbing so that the point of the needle faces the same way as the larger needle.

Hold the work with the right side facing and the 2nd (smaller) needle with its stitches hanging at the bottom of the work. Bring the 2nd (smaller) needle up to the back of the work and hold it behind the current needle.

To knit the two edges of the rolled neckband together, insert the RH needle into the back loop (if it’s a twisted knit stitch) of the first stitch on the main needle, and immediately into the stitch on the additional (smaller) needle and knit the 2 stitches off together.

There is usually one fewer stitches on the needle used to pick up the provisional cast on, and, when you are knitting them together, the back stitches are half stitch “off”, so you may feel a slight bias lean, which will disappear or get blocked out later.

Working a rolled hem or sleeve cuffs on a top-down sweater is a little trickier than doing the neckband. What’s involved is a mixture of grafting (or Kitchener stitch) and duplicate stitch because you’re joining the stitches on the needle to the inside of the sweater at the line where the ribbing joins the stockinette stitch rows of the body. It was a little more of a challenge than I could do this time in the time frame I had to get this sweater to Mason’s mom & dad, before he outgrew it. But I’ll definitely prepare a tutorial for a future series of blog posts.

I hope you’ve enjoyed what I’ve shared about Wacki Saki sock yarn and I also hope that you’ll try one of these 2 patterns soon.

Charles Voth

charlesvothdesigns.ca 26

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Red Heart Croquette yarn knits into a vibrant hair scrunchie Charles Voth

Hair scrunchy knit with 2 strands of Red Heart Croquette held together.

Red Heart Croquette in Spice Market Colorway.

The un-assembled scrunchy, with the elastic hair band around which I’ll sew all that fabric!

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Sometimes you don’t want to knit a huge project. Sometimes you see very fine yarn, and you think, “ummm, I’d rather use worsted weight.” Sometimes you think glitter in yarn is too blingy.

But sometimes, there is a perfect project that isn’t too big, doesn’t use tiny needles, and is just the thing for a bit of glitz. And this scrunchy pattern may be just the thing. Two strands of Red Heart Croquette yarn add a little glam to any ponytail.

Red Heart Croquette cakes each come with 45g [1.5oz] of yarn. The yardage is fabulous at 239 yds [219m] because it’s a 1 (see Yarn Standards in this issue) super-fine yarn. It behaves like a lace-weight, but could pass as a light-fingering weight, depending on the needle size. It comes in 11 colorways. Each cake has between 4 and 5 space-dyed stripes with coordinating colors.

The one I used for the scrunchy is called Spice Market and it has pinks, salmon, and a pastel sherbet orange.

To make this scrunchy, you need a hair elastic that’s 1¾” [4cm] in diameter, a darning needle, scissors, and size US 6 [4mm] needles. I happen to use circular needles for everything, but straights can be used for this project because we’re knitting back and forth in rows.

The nature of this scrunchy pattern is that it’s a bit random, and can be customized even by beginner knitters. It’s worked in random strips of garter stitch and stockinette stitch. You’ll even notice that I’ve used short rows to give the center of the rectangle a bit more width than the edges. They are completely optional. I used German short rows, which I’ve taught in my earlier KNITmuch posts.

Scrunchy Pattern

Holding one end of Red Heart Croquette from the center of the cake and taking the other end from the outside of the cake together, cast on 36 stitches using size US 6 [4mm] needles.

Rows 1 – 8: Knit.

Rows 9 – 12: Work in stockinette stitch (knit one row, purl one row).

Following rows… randomly work garter stitch or stockinette stitch.

If you’d like to insert short-row wedges, do the following: Starting on a right-side row, knit 30, turn and work a German short row stitch, purl 23, turn and work a short-row stitch, knit 17, turn and work a short row stitch, purl 11, turn and work a short row stitch. Now knit across, working the short-row stitches with double-strands or hitched stitches by knitting them together. Knit the following row, working the short-row hitched stitches the same way. Refer to my video on Turning German Short Rows, if need be.

Work until your piece is 8″ long. Then bind off. Sew the two ends together.

Short rows provide internal shaping which adds texture to the scrunchy.

For those of you who are slightly more adventurous knitters, you could start the Scrunchy with a provisional cast on. Then un-pick it at the end and graft the two ends together with Kitchener stitch.

Turn the scrunchy wrong-side out. Place the elastic doubled (or single if you need a looser fit) around the scrunchy fabric at about a ¼ of the width point, and baste it loosely onto the knit fabric.

Fold the scrunchy in half lengthwise so that the edges are wrong-sides together with the right-side facing out. With the darning needle, whip-stitch the edges closed. Fluff the fabric around the elastic and it’s ready.

Scrunchy is sewn together at bound off and caston edges.

The elastic is loosely basted into place.

Three scrunchies this size can be knit with one cake of Red Heart Croquette.

You can make this scrunchy in a few hours.

Photos by Charles Voth KNITmuch | issue 11

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Easy knit late summer stole – perfect – using Red Heart Croquette yarn

This summer lace stole is a good introduction to lace knitting.

As the summer evenings start to cool down, you’ll need a light and ‘drape-y’ lace stole to keep that dewy night air off your shoulders.

Red Heart Croquette yarn has some fun color transitions and a little bling, and it will knit up quickly. This particular design is an easy introduction to lace knitting for the beginner knitter, as you work on lace motifs for only few a rows and across a few stitches, and then you get to work in garter stitch for a while.

This lace stole is knit with 2 different needle sizes. The lace panel is knit with the larger needles, which provide the drape and sway that will occur where the stole will fall off your shoulders. The smaller needles are used to create the scalloping ridges.

These are the stitches you’ll need to work this design.

Only 2 cakes of Red Heart Croquette in this pink colorway, Spice Market, are needed for this design.

k = knit k2tog = knit 2 stitches together p = purl ssk = Slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time, then put the slipped sts back onto the left needle tip and knit them together through the back loops. yo = Wrap the working yarn under the right needle (between the needle tips), then over the right needle to the back (counter-clockwise).

It takes 3 cakes of the main color of Croquette in the main color, Stonehenge, to make a 6-foot [183cm] stole.

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(k, yo, k) in 1 = Knit, leaving the stitch on the left needle, then yarn over, and then knit into the same stitch. Slide the stitch off the left needle.

I hope you try this summer stole and easy lace and scallops motif.

materials

You’ll need US8 [5mm] needles to knit the looser rows that contain the lace panel, and US5 [3.75mm] needles to knit the scalloped ridges.

Pattern Starts With Spice Market and smaller needles, cast on 114 sts.

Rows 1-2: Knit across, (114 sts).

Row 3: [K2tog, k15, ssk] 6 times (102 sts).

Row 4: Knit across, (102 sts).

Row 5: [K2tog, k13, ssk] 6 times (90 sts).

Row 6: Knit across, (90 sts).

Row 7: [K2tog, k11, ssk] 6 times (78 sts).

Row 8: Knit across, (78 sts).

Row 9: Change to Stonehenge, knit across, (78 sts).

Row 10: [K4, p2, [yo, p1] twice, p1, k4] 6 times (90 sts).

Row 11: [K4, ssk, k3, k2tog, k4] 6 times (78 sts).

Row 12: [K4, p1, yo, p3, yo, p1, k4] 6 times (90 sts).

Row 13: [K7, [yo, k1] twice, k6] 6 times (102 sts).

Row 14: [K7, p1, (k, yo, k) in 1, p1, k7] 6 times (114 sts).

Row 15: Knit across, (114 sts).

Row 16: [K8, p3, k8] 6 times (114 sts).

Rows 17-18: Change to Spice market, knit across, (114 sts).

These are the chart symbols to knit up this stole.

This motif is 13 stitches wide. Simply cast on more stitches in groups of 13 for a wider stole.

Row 19: [K2tog, k15, ssk] 6 times (102 sts).

Row 20: Knit across, (102 sts).

Row 21: [K2tog, k13, ssk] 6 times (90 sts).

Row 22: Knit across, (90 sts).

Row 23: [K2tog, k11, ssk] 6 times (78 sts).

Row 24: Knit across, (78 sts).

Repeat Rows 9-24 until stole measures 6′ [183cm] or desired length.

I was truly surprised by the beauty and softness of Red Heart Croquette yarn. The twist on it is very tight, but it still is elastic. I’m guessing the acrylic content contributes to this. The color transitions aren’t faded into each other gradually, but in all of the 11 colorways, the colors coordinate very well, so the change doesn’t seem abrupt to me. This yarn is very affordable, so even with 5 cakes in the stole, the project won’t cost you an arm and a leg.

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Hold 3 strands of It’s a Wrap Rainbow™ by Red Heart to make a quick, soft and warm scarf.

Use crossfading gradient yarns to knit a quick project

I’m happy to introduce Red Heart it’s a wrap Rainbow gradient yarn from their it’s a wrap series of themed colorways. These are bright colors that transition gradually from one to another along the lengthy yardage of each cake. Both Croquette and Rainbow are also non-allergenic for those sensitive to animal fibers.

Each cake of it’s a wrap yarn, in this case the Rainbow™ series, consists of 623 yards [570m] of 4-ply yarn where the plies aren’t twisted; that’s just over 5 ¼ oz. [150g] of cotton-acrylic blend. Each ply consists of two even finer plies that have been twisted. The 4 plies are not twisted because the plies are “shifted” to form the gradients. At any point along the 600+ yards you will find that 2 or 3 of the plies are one color and the other plies are the next color in the gradient. There are tiny knots at the points where the one ply in a color is joined to the next color, but as these plies are so fine, you cannot feel the knot in the knit fabric. It comes in 8 bright colorways!

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I’ve folded the scarf in a zig-zag fashion to make it easier to see the transitions in the gradients of the 3 strands of Red Heart Rainbow™ held together.

By using 3 strands of Red Heart Rainbow™ together, you can make this quick 1-row pattern scarf with a depth of color because of the different blendings.

If you love this yarn because of the gradients and the colors, but don’t have enough time to knit with lace-weight yarn (it’s a Craft Yarn Council #1 weight), you can always double or even triple up the strands to make a thicker yarn that knits at a DK or aran weight, respectively.

For fun, I thought it would be interesting to “crossfade” the gradients; in other words, the direction of the gradients would be paired in opposite directions. So for this quick project, I held the outer and inner ends of one cake of it’s a wrap Rainbow™ in the Seaglass colorway together with another outer end of a second cake of the same colorway.

In essence I have a 12 ply yarn now, which makes for quick knitting! It’s quite engaging to see how the colors fade in opposite directions.

This pattern is a very slight variation of the OneRow Scarf by the Yarn Harlot.

Materials

• Two cakes of Red Heart it’s a wrap Rainbow™.

The Seaglass colorway appears in these pictures.

• Size 8 US [5mm] needles.

I modified the original pattern so that there could be a neat braided edge on both long sides of the scarf.

Instructions

Hold an outer strand from each cake together along with an inner end of one of the cakes throughout.

Cast on 28 (or any multiple of 4) stitches.

Row 1: Slip first st purlwise, k2, k1 through back loop (tbl), *p1, k2, k1tbl; rep from * across.

Repeat Row 1 until cake from which you are only one strand weighs 2⅝ oz [75g].

Bind off.

To make a “fraternal twin” to this scarf, you need only 1 more cake from which to use both ends, and then you would use the half of the single-strand cake for the 3 strand.

I’ve really enjoyed using this yarn and playing around with the cross-fading of the gradients.

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The Gothic Diffusion shawl stretched out to flaunt the long color transitions in the Parfait colorway of it’s a wrap Rainbow yarn.

The increases at the center point of the shawl are more gradual and help the visual lines of the pattern appear to be curved.

Knitting an obtuse isosceles triangle shawl with one cake of Rainbow Triangular shawls come in all shapes and sizes. They get their shape by adjusting the rate of increasing at the center or along the edges. The most common triangular shawl that one encounters these days is called a right isosceles triangle. This means that two sides form a 90° angle and the other two angles are each 45°.

around the edges. To rectify this, I crocheted a very easy and subtle border around the whole shawl. If you are an experienced shawl knitter, feel free to add your own built-in lace inset edgings or knitted on edgings as you see fit. This crochet edge could be reproduced in knitting with a 2-stitch i-cord, if crochet isn’t your thing.

When I saw this pink and purple skein of Red Heart it’s a wrap Rainbow gradient yarn, I knew that a shallower triangle would be just the thing to show off the long color transitions in this yarn.

The Gothic arches lace pattern is quite simple to do.

You’ll notice from the photos that as you increase, new stitches are at first worked in altering garter stitch ridges and stockinette valleys until enough stitches have been added on to introduce a full pattern repeat of the Gothic arches lace. Because the rate of increase isn’t directly proportional to the multiple of stitches in the Gothic arches lace motif, the inclusion of a new full pattern repeat is different at the long edges than at the center point. To help you maneuver through this, stitch markers will be your heroes.

This shawl starts at the center of the long (almost 7¼’ [220cm]) edge. As you knit, you increase dramatically on each edge, add stitches at the center point at a much slower rate.

Some notes on the pattern

The full pattern follows this article, but there are a few key elements that I’d like to highlight.

The long edge increases happen very quickly, which produces a border that’s literally a little rough 34

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As the rows get longer, the distance between the transitions grows less, but not so skinny that you can’t enjoy each color and each fade.

Another detail you may notice in the photos are the garter stitch ridges that cut across all the Gothic arches lace motifs every once in a while. This is completely optional, but I liked the effect, so that’s what I did!

In preparation, you may want to cast on and practice the following stitches: k2tog Knit 2 stitches together – insert the righthand (RH) needle into the front legs of the 2nd and first sts on the left-hand (LH) needle together, wrap yarn and knit through. This is a right-leaning decrease.

By changing one ply at a time, Red Heart it’s a wrap Rainbow transitions through 5 colors in this lovely gradient.

ssk Slip, slip, knit – slip the first stitch on the LH needle knit-wise, slip the next stitch on the LH needle purlwise, return both stitches to the LH needle, knit through the 2 back loops of the “returned” stitches together. This is a left-leaning decrease. s2kp2 Slip 2 stitches together, knit, pass the 2 slipped stitches over: insert RH needle tip in the front legs of the 2nd and first sts on LH needle as if to k2tog, but slip them off LH needle, knit the next stitch, then pass the 2 slipped stitches over the stitch you just knit. This is a centered double decrease.

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1 cake of Red Heart it’s a wrap Rainbow knits up the Gothic Diffusion shawl

The Parfait colorway of It’s a Wrap Rainbow makes the 7-foot wingspanned Gothic Diffusion shawl look its best.

I present the pattern for the Gothic Diffusion shawl. Please ask your questions in the comments, and when you share your end results on social media, please tag KNITmuch! finished measurements 87″ [220cm] wide x 24″ [60cm] deep. gauge 2 full Gothic Arches Lace motifs = 5¼” [13.5cm]; 25 rows in lace pattern = 4″ [10cm] materials Size US 7 [4.5mm] 48″ [120cm] circular needle.

Size US 7/G [4.5mm] standard crochet hook 36

KNITmuch | issue 11

1 cake of Red Heart it’s a wrap Rainbow in the Parfait colorway.

55% cotton, 45% acrylic; 623yds [570m]; 5⅓ oz [150g].

6 stitch markers, preferably in 3 matching pairs of colors or dangling charms. abbreviations K = knit P = purl ssk = slip, slip, knit k2tog = knit 2 together s2kp2 = slip 2 sts together, k1, psso yo = yarn over

sm = slip marker pm = place marker rm = remove marker rem = remain(ing) [ ] or { } repeat the instructions between brackets the indicated number of times or to the indicated stitch marker. crochet abbreviations (North American terminology) ch = chain dc = double crochet sc = single crochet sl st = slip stitch; st(s) = stitch(es)

Stitch counts are only given for the first 43 rows. After that, the increase rate and additional motifs appearance will be established.

If you happen to miss the 15-st or 14-st amounts near the edges or the center stitch and end up with more than 15 or 14, do not unravel your work, simply move the stitch markers and work the 12-st pattern repeat given between {curly brackets} on the next right-side row.

Stitch marker placement

The optional garter stitch ridge

Pattern Notes

See the initial pattern notes in the previous article of this feature.

When working on the right-side, the markers will be named A, B, C, D, E, and F. When working on the wrong-side, the markers are F, E, D, C, B, and A. If you have different colors or charms for stitch markers, A & F should be the same, B & E, and C & D will be the other pairs.

To work the garter stitch ridge in to occasionally disrupt the Gothic Arches lace motif, pay attention to the instructions on Rows 32 and 56. The ridge is only added if a motif repeat has been recently added, otherwise, continue to work in the established pattern.

Adding motif repeats

Cast on 6 sts.

When there are 15 or more stitches between the edges and stitch markers A or F and the next row is a wrong side row, move stitch markers A and F 12 stitches toward the edges.

Marker-A can be moved on the wrong-side row; Marker F will need to be moved on the next right-side row. Work the instructions between {curly brackets} across the multiples of 12 stitches between markers A and B and E and F. When there are 14 or more stitches on either side of the center stitch (between markers B and C and D and E) and the next row is a wrong side row, move stitch markers B and E 12 stitches toward the center. Marker-B can be moved on the wrong-side row; Marker E will need to be moved on the next right-side row.

Pattern Starts Row 1: K1, [yo, k1]x5–11 sts.

Row 2: Purl.

Row 3: [K1, yo]x2, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2–15 sts.

Row 4: Knit.

Row 5: K7, yo, k1, yo, k7–17 sts.

Row 6: Purl.

Row 7: [K1, yo]x2, k7, yo, pm, k1, yo, k7, [yo, k1]x2–23 sts.

Row 8: Knit.

Row 9: Rep Row 3–27 sts.

Row 10: Purl.

Row 11: [K1, yo]x2, knit to marker, rm, yo, pm, k1, yo, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2–33 sts.

Row 12: Knit.

Rows 13–16: Rep Rows 9–12–43 sts.

Row 17: Knit.

Row 18: Purl.

Row 19: Rep Row 11 removing all markers–49 sts.

Row 20 (WS): K6, pm (now called marker F), k12, pm (now called marker E), k6, pm (now called marker D), k1, sm (now called marker C), k6, pm (now called marker B), k12, pm (now called marker A), k6.

Each colorway of Red Heart Rainbow™ has at least 5 colors that appear in the gradient transitions.

Row 21 (RS): K2, yo, knit to marker-A, smA, yo, k4, s2kp2, k4, yo, k1, smB, knit to marker-C, smC, k1, smD, knit to marker-E, smE, k1, yo, k4, s2kp2, kr, yo, smF, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2–2 sts increased–51 sts.

Row 22: Purl, slipping all markers.

Row 23: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, k1, yo, k3, s2kp2, k3, yo, k2, smB, knit to marker-C, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to marker-E, smE, k2, yo, k3, s2kp2, k3, yo, k1, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2–6 sts increased, 57 sts.

Row 24: Knit to marker-F, smF, purl to marker E, smE, knit to marker B, smB, purl to marker A, smA, knit rem sts.

Row 25: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, k2, yo, k2, s2kp2, k2, yo, k3, smB, knit to marker E, smE, k3, yo, k2, s2kp2, k2, yo, k2, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1] x2–4 sts increased, 61 sts.

Row 26: Purl, slipping all markers.

Row 27: K2, yo, knit to marker-A, smA, k3, yo, k1, s2kp2, k1, yo, k4, smB, knit to marker-C, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to marker-E, smE, k4, yo, k1, s2kp2, k1, yo, k3, smF, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2–4 sts increased, 65 sts.

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Row 28: Rep Row 24.

Row 29: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, k4, yo, s2kp2, yo, k5, smB, knit to marker-E, smE, k5, yo, s2kp2, yo, k4, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2–4 sts increased, 69 sts.

Row 30: Check side edge stitch count (see Pattern Notes for adding motif repeats).

Purl across, slipping all markers.

Remember to check for stitch counts at edges and next to center increases!

Row 31: K2, yo, knit to marker-A (if there are any sts before A), smA, {k12} across to marker-B, knit to marker-C, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to marker-E, {k12} across to marker F, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2–4 sts increased, 73 sts.

Row 32: Knit to marker-F, smF, (if a rep of 12 sts has just been added to this edge, {k12} across to E; otherwise…){p12} across to E, knit across to B, (if a rep of 12 sts has just been added to this edge, {k12} across to last 12 sts before A; otherwise…) {p12} across to A, smA, knit rem sts.

Row 33: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, {yo, k4, s2kp2, k4, yo, k1} across to next marker, smB, knit across to marker-E, {k1, yo, k4, s2kp2, k4, yo} across to next marker, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2–4 sts increased, 77 sts.

Row 34: Purl across, slipping all markers.

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Row 35: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, {k1, yo, k3, s2kp2, k3, yo, k2} across to next marker, smB, knit across to next marker, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to next marker, smE, {k2, yo, k3, s2kp2, k3, yo, k1} across to next marker, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2–6 sts increased, 83 sts.

Row 36: Knit to next marker, smF, purl to next marker, smE, knit to marker-B, smB, purl to next marker, smA, knit rem sts.

Row 37: K2, yo, knit to next marker, smA, {k2, yo, k2, s2kp2, k2, yo, k3} across to next marker, smB, knit across to marker-E, smE, {k3, yo, k2, s2kp2, k2, yo, k2} across to next marker, smF, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2–2 sts increased, 79 sts.

Row 38: Purl across, slipping all markers.

Row 39: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, {k3, yo, k1, s2kp2, k1, yo, k4} across to next marker, smB, knit across to next marker, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to next marker, smE, {k4, yo, k1, s2kp2, k1, yo, k3} across to next marker, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [yo, k1]x2–6 sts increased, 89 sts.

Row 40: Rep Row 36.

Row 41: [K1, yo]x2, knit to next marker, smA, {k5, yo, s2kp2, yo, k4} across to next marker, smB, knit across to marker-E, smE, {k4, yo, s2kps, yo, k5} across to next marker, smF, knit to last 2 sts, [k1, yo] x2–4 sts increased, 93 sts.

Row 42: Purl across, slipping all markers.

Row 43: K2, yo, knit across to marker-C, yo, smC, k1, smD, yo, knit to last 2 sts, yo, k2–4 sts increased, 97 sts.

Row 44: Knit across, slipping all markers.

Rows 45-53: Rep Rows 33-41.

Rows 54-56: Rep Rows 30-32.

Rep Rows 33-56 until desired width is achieved, ending with a Row 32 or 44. You should have about 10 meters of yarn remaining to work the crocheted edging.

Crochet Edging

After binding off, place the last live stitch on the crochet hook.

Working across one of the shorter diagonal edges first, ch 3, dc in the st at the base of the ch-3 just make. *Lean the dc towards the shawl edge and work a sc where the top of the dc naturally lies. Ch 3, dc in the same place as the sc just made; rep from * around the entire shawl. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

Additional pattern repeats of the Gothic Arches lace motif are added only when there are enough stitches to do so.

Charles Voth

charlesvothdesigns.ca

Thoughtful Soles DARK MUSHROOMS

WINTER IS COMING

WIGGLE ROOM

COLOURWASH

WOOL STEW

HIGH FIBRE

BUMPS IN THE ROAD

T IS FOR TURN

Welcome to the Thoughtful Soles Series

by Lorraine Thompson!

This is a zany collection of knitted sock patterns to tickle your funny bone every time you wear them.

KNITmuch | issue 11

39

Knit Together

with Cynthia MacDougall

Patterns of Yore I’m a person who values links to the past. For years, I participated in American Civil War era reenactments where I educated people about domestic arts of the period: knitting, quilting, embroidery, and spinning. Knitting patterns were scarce in the 1860s and those that were available were lacking, at best.

Authors assumed that the reader had a full grasp of knitting concepts.

The advantages and disadvantages of full-text and abbreviated text patterns can be seen in the following example:

In general, old knitting patterns offer us a link to our past, but they are often difficult to interpret. It’s not surprising – times change. After all, one wouldn’t expect a videogaming 16 year-old to know how to hitch a horse to a wagon!

Cast on 7 sts. Sl 1, k3, k2tog, yo, k1.

Written knitting patterns are actually a fairly recent innovation. Evidence exists of written knitting instructions as early as 1655; however, the first mass-produced volumes appeared in the mid-1800s. Prior to that time, patterns were passed along via knitted samples or by memorizing another knitter’s work.

Today, many knitters lament the lack of standardized chart symbols, however, early knitting books lacked standardized instructions, let alone standard abbreviations.

Patterns seldom gave needle size, knitting tension, or even garment measurements!

The earliest knitting instructions were given in full text, without abbreviations. This was advantageous in that it reduced the chance for errors in typesetting and for misinterpretation of the pattern by the reader. It was detrimental in that full text patterns are tedious to read and take up a lot of page space.

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Full text instruction Cast on seven stitches, slip the first stitch, knit three stitches, knit two stitches together, bring the yarn forward, knit one. versus its abbreviated version Abbreviations make it possible to absorb several steps at once. This reduces the number of times the knitter needs to refer to the pattern.

Abbreviations vary from region to region. The abbreviation for wool forward (Wl. fwd.) in Canadian patterns is listed as “c” for ‘cast up’ in Shetland notation. Abbreviations vary over time, as well. Victorian patterns would abbreviate decreases simply as “N” for narrow, whereas Shetlanders used “T” for “together,” and mid-20th century knitting books used the more explicit “k2tog.” When designers started to show directional decreases in their patterns, more descriptive instructions for making a fabric ‘narrow’ became common.

Yarn manufacture and terminology also vary over time and region.

Pattern writing was further complicated by the fact that knit and purl were known by different names.

Knit was usually described as plain or knit, but was occasionally given other descriptors. Purl is variously cited as pearl, purl, back, turned stitch, knotted stitch, or seam stitch.

British knitting author Jane Gaugain is believed to be the first to use abbreviations in knitting. Despite her effort, abbreviations did not become popular until several decades later, near the end of the nineteenth century. Patterns of this era rarely listed tension or needle sizes.

Even if needle sizes were listed, they remain a mystery, because there were as many as four systems in use for sizing needles. Nevertheless, any sock knitter will deduce that a baby sock with 98 stitches, using Number 40 crochet cotton and number 24 needles will be very fine knitting.

Weldon’s Practical Needlework (first published in the 1880s) notes that, at that time, patterns were published by thread companies whose primary goal was to sell their threads.

Weldon’s was unique in that they did not sell yarn or threads; their stock-in-trade was pattern printing.

According to Jean Sowerby, author of Victorian Lace Today, Weldon’s “set the standard” for pattern writing style from the mid-1800s to the early twentieth century.

Butterick, the sewing company, followed soon after, with The Art of Knitting, first published in 1892. Both publications offered basic knitting instruction and patterns. Interweave Press produced facsimile editions of the Weldon’s leaflets in a series of volumes beginning in 1999. The Weldon’s leaflets included a variety of crafts, including crochet, macramé, and ironwork. Piper Publishing released a facsimile reproduction of The Art of Knitting in 2003. It is solely devoted to knitting.

Charts are relative newcomers in the printed pattern world. Like abbreviations, chart symbols allow a knitter to view several bits of instruction at a glance. Early charts often used a black dot or “X” in a square to denote either a purl stitch (in the case of fisherman’s ganseys) or a contrasting color (in the case of Fair Isle, Shetland, or Nordic patterns). In color charts, color choice was left to the knitter’s discretion. Today, charts are also used to depict other knitting manoeuvres, such as twisted stitches and cables.

Historically, yarn companies published patterns with the intent that they be used exclusively for their yarns. In times past, these contained dire warnings such as “Perfect results are only guaranteed when you work to exact tension with the specified yarn,” or “To obtain full dimension of the patterns, we suggest you use only [our] yarns which carry the highly respected ‘guarantee of performance’.” While this practice has relaxed to a degree, some present-day patterns still caution that best results will only be achieved by using the yarn prescribed by the pattern.

Other independent pattern publishers sold knitting-related products. One such company was Lux soap, whose parent company, Lever Brothers Limited (now UniLever), produced knitting books annually from about 1938 through 1960, with a break following World War II due to a shortage of paper in Canada. Naturally, these books contained advertisements recommending that fine woollens be washed with their soap.

Because printed knitting patterns are relatively new additions to knitting history, it is important to note that knitting patterns provide a link to our recent knitting past. For links to our distant knitting past, we must look to the collections of knitting artifacts in museums around the world.

Sources: A History of Hand Knitting, R. Rutt, Interweave Press, 1987 Victorian Lace Today, J. Sowerby, XRX Books, 2006 A Facsimile Edition of Weldon’s Practical Needlework, Volume 1, Interweave Press, 1999 The Complete Book of Traditional Knitting, Rae Compton, Batsford Publishing, 1983 The Art of Knitting 1892, Piper Press, 2003

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Sign up at https://app.ruzuku.com/courses/47329/about KNITmuch | issue 11

41

Deciphering Vintage Knitting Patterns

by Cynthia MacDougall There are numerous challenges involved in replicating vintage knitting patterns. In this article, we take the main components of a ‘modern day’ knitting pattern and note what to expect from patterns of different periods.

Materials: In Victorian times, Berlin wool was very common in Europe, Great Britain, and North America. It was named after ‘Berlin work,’ a form of needlepoint and it is variously cited as “single,” “double,” and “four strand.” Other types of yarn cited in patterns of the Victorian period include Andalusian, Pyrenees, and fleecy. Weldon’s books also mention Scotch fingering, German fingering, Beehive, and Zephyr wools.

As manufacturers created new yarns, they gave them unique names like Molana, Canadiana, Scope, or Misty.

A hundred years from now these names will be as mysterious to knitters as Andalusian and Berlin are to 21st century knitters.

Over time, terms to describe the thickness of yarn were developed. The first, based on reading the Weldon’s books, was ‘fingering.’ Others include double knitting, sport, worsted, and bulky. In Australia, a system was created that describes yarn thickness by number of plies. Thin yarns have a low ply number and thick yarns have a high ply number: three ply is fingering or sock weight, eight ply is double knitting weight, and so on.

From the late 1800s onward, knitting needle sizes were given, however, anyone re-creating patterns from this era should be aware that several different needle sizing systems were in use. The same holds true today; there are different needle sizing systems in Japan, the United States, and Europe.

Before the adoption of the metric system by Canada and Great Britain,

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these countries used a needle sizing system which was based on British standard wire gauge measurements.

The advantage of the metric system is that needles can easily be measured with any caliper or micrometer.

Regardless, patterns that give any needle sizes guide the knitter to a starting point for sampling. It is important to remember that needle sizes should be considered a recommendation in any knitting pattern: it is more important to achieve the tension than it is to use the prescribed size of needle.

Measurements: Measurements were seldom given in Victorian era patterns. Often, the best the reader can hope for is a reference in the title to ‘child’s,’ ‘gentleman’s,’ or ‘ladies.’ Remember that Victorian ladies were more petite than 21st century women. When I made my re-enactment ball gown from a scale diagram from a period clothing book I had to add one inch to each side of each pattern piece – a full four inches in circumference to bust, waist and hips, to size it to ladies’ 12! Knitting patterns for ladies’ garments will be similarly sized.

Mid-twentieth century patterns routinely give measurements; however, it is sometimes unclear whether the measurements are for the garment’s finished size or the wearer’s actual body measurement. Some patterns state “To fit an 18 inch chest,” which implies that the finished garment size will be larger to allow for ease.

The garment’s finished size can be calculated by dividing the total number of stitches for the front and back pieces by the number of stitches per inch, as given by the pattern or as taken from the tension swatch.

Sometimes garment length is indicated. Some patterns may also include sleeve measurements.

Tension: Tension was rarely given in Victorianera patterns. Tension usually appears in patterns of the mid-twentieth century.

Some patterns list only the stitch tension; others give stitch and row tension.

Pattern: This section can be the greatest cause of frustration for the reader. Several terms were sometimes used for the same instruction within a pattern.

In addition, abbreviations may have changed over time and can be difficult to decipher, particularly in older patterns. Newer books usually list abbreviations somewhere in the publication.

A bit of basic reasoning may be required to decode vintage patterns.

For example, I found the abbreviations “Tf” and “Th o” in two vintage patterns.

When I saw that each was usually accompanied by a decrease, I deduced that the first meant “thread forward,” and the second “thread over.”

Canadian Guild of Knitters’ office receives several inquiries annually regarding the terms “yarn over,” “yarn forward,” and “yarn round needle.” In most instances, yarn over and yarn forward are interchangeable. Yarn round needle is usually cited when a yarn over is to be worked on a purl row, because the yarn travels around the entire circumference of the needle before working the next stitch.

The pattern section usually gives some guidance as to the order in which the garment pieces should be knitted.

Some even highlight areas that need attention with italics, for example, the back or front of a garment may note Shape Armhole at the top of the main part of the body.

Patterns often use symbols. Asterisks were used to denote pattern repeats as early as 1870. Other symbols may include a plus sign or cross, and a number, or pound symbol.

Picture/ Schematic: Prior to the common use of photography, pictorial representations were not always given with a pattern. Diagrams were carved into wood blocks or metal plates, and, at times, the engraver took some liberties with the design. I once found a lace edging that was shown with impossible-to-knit flowers in it.

As photography gained in popularity after the American Civil War, photographs began to appear in all forms of paper publications, including knitting patterns.

Schematics, like charts, are a very recent innovation in pattern writing. Vogue Knitting was one of the first magazines to use schematics in their patterns.

Patience and perseverance are key when trying to unlock the mystery of vintage knitting patterns. Knitters who don’t want the challenge of working from vintage patterns can watch for updated versions of vintage patterns. Authors such as Jean Sowerby, Nancy Bush, Gladys Amedro, Rae Compton, and Sharon Miller have written books that take vintage patterns from their original state into today’s knitting language. Still, it is extremely interesting to read reproductions or original versions of vintage knitting patterns to study both the fashion and writing styles of the different eras. z Sources: Treasures in Needlework: First Published in 1870, Mrs. Warren and Mrs. Pullman, Berkley Publishing, 1976 A Facsimile Edition of Weldon’s Practical Needlework, Volume 1, Interweave Press, 1999 Lux Knitting Book, 1939 edition, ed. By Vivian Tait, Lever Brothers Limited, 1939 Lady Galt Baby Talk, Norma Gordon, Dobbie Industries Limited, 1968 Nursery Styles for 3 to 12 months by Beehive, Patons & Baldwins (Canada) Limited, c. 1978 The Art of Knitting 1892, Piper Press, 2003 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knitting_needle KNITmuch | issue 11

43

Knit Together

with Cynthia MacDougall

Fearless Knitting: Steeking The very thought of cutting into knitting can cause some knitters to hyperventilate harder than when the needles get pulled out of a fine lace shawl. That is why nothing puts terror into the heart of a knitter more than steeks.

A steek is defined in Debby Robinson’s Encyclopedia of Knitting Techniques as “a plain band of several extra stitches, used by traditional fairisle [sic] knitters.”

In The Complete Book of Traditional Knitting, Rae Compton describes steeks as a Norwegian technique, but does not label them as such. Given the common belief that Fair Isle knitting is closely related to Nordic knitting, it is no surprise to see steeking described as a Norwegian technique.

It's not the knitting of the steeks that is scary, it's what you do to them. Once knitted, you cut right through the centre of the steek. For most knitters, that’s the scary part.

Steek is a Gaelic word, meaning ‘to close,’ as ‘steek the gate.’ It is also defined as “the interstices of any woven or knitted fabric, stitch.” Many knitting books describe steeks but list them under ‘cut’ or ‘cutting’ in the index. In The Illustrated Dictionary of Knitting, Rae Compton refers to ‘cut and sew’ knitting. Elizabeth Zimmermann used steeks for the armholes of her Drop Shoulder Sweater in Knitting Workshop but described them as “cut armholes.” She also used the same technique for the Kangaroo-Pouch neckline described in the same book.

I have three theories why knitters have such a fear of steeks. The first one is that most knitters were taught from an early age that cutting into knitting is bad – undeniably bad. The second theory is that most of us believe that knitting can be made to an exact

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shape, so there is no earthly reason to cut it. The third theory relates to ‘just in case’ thinking: once the knitting has been cut, the yarn can never be unraveled and re-used – knitting cannot be cut in case it is necessary to re-use the yarn someday. Yet, our knitting forebears, who can easily be described as thrifty, routinely made garments with steeks and cut their knitting. Why? Steeks have two primary functions.

They allow a pullover to be worked in the round from the bottom all the way to the shoulders and they make it possible to make a flat piece of knitting in the round.

Knowing that steeks were generally used for color stranded knitting, there is no doubt in my mind that they were invented so the entire piece could be knitted with the right side of the work facing the knitter, alleviating the need to do color stranding on wrong side rows.

Knitters who like to make sweaters in the round to the armhole but grapple with tension differences between inthe-round and back-and-forth knitting can use steeks to achieve even tension throughout.

Steeks need not be used on color stranded knitting projects only. They can be used to make any piece of flat knitting on circular needles. Knit the item in the round with a steek, then cut the knitting to make it flat. This works particularly well when there is a benefit to having the right side facing the knitter at all times, such as twisted stitch patterns that twist on every row.

Steeks can be applied to straight or shaped areas of a garment. Straight steeks are often used on the centre fronts of cardigan sweaters and for the armholes of drop-shouldered sweaters.

They can also be used in shaped areas as v-necklines or triangular shawls.

Historically, steeks were worked on garments made of pure wool and were about five stitches wide. They can be used on fabrics made of other fibers with the following suggestions: On superwash wools or acrylics, add several stitches to the steek.

If steeks are needed on slippery fabrics, such as cotton or rayon, add even more stitches to the steek and sew an extra row of reinforcing machine stitches.

Before the advent of sewing machines, steeks were sometimes reinforced with back-stitching sewn by hand before they were cut. In other cases, the cut edges were left to felt together, which they would do after a few washes and wearings. Sometimes, the cut ends were hemmed down with herringbone, overcast, or whip stitches on the inside of the garment.

Today, most knitters run one or two lines of machine stitching in the steek margin to ensure the yarn doesn’t unravel.

Some knitters prefer to knit a facing to cover the steek and prevent the cut ends from poking the wearer. This gives a very neat finish to a garment.

The next time the opportunity arises, make a steek, take a deep breath, and cut.

Further Reading: The Complete Book of Traditional Knitting, Rae Compton, B.T.Batsford Limited, 1983 Encyclopedia of Knitting Techniques, Debby Robinson, Swallow Publishing Limited, 1987 Knitting Workshop, Elizabeth Zimmermann, Schoolhouse Press, 1981 Resources: A Dictionary of Lowland Scotch, Charles Mackay, Allan Ramsay, G. May, 1888

Photos courtesy of Cynthia MacDougall.

KNITmuch | issue 11

Making a Steek Now that the uses for steeks have been explained, it’s time to put scissors to knitting…

The stitches for this steek were included in the bottom ribbing, but the steek stitches were cast off before knitting the top ribbing. There are benefits to either method: including the ribbing stitches in the steek allows all the knitting to be circular, but the part of the steek which will be hemmed down will come right to the edge of the piece, creating risk of the ends showing beyond the edge of the piece. Knitting the ribbing back-andforth reduces bulk, which may be desired in such areas as necklines, however, the ribbing may pull in more than desired.

Start small. Make a sample piece to try steeking. Choose a straight sample like the one shown in the photo. In this sample, the centre stitch of the steek was worked entirely in medium blue and the two stitches on either side of it were ‘chequered’ by alternating the two colors used throughout the round.

Chequering the stitches helps lock them in place and prevents long floats of an unused color.

With a sewing machine, stitch two lines of straight, or narrow zigzag, stitches the full length of the steek, on either side of centre.With sharp scissors, cut through the steek between the machine-stitched lines. In this sample, the centre line of blue stitches creates a visual reference for cutting; simply cut down the centre ‘v’ of the stitches.

Finish the steek as desired. One side of our sample was finished with a simple hem by turning the steek under and sewing it down with an overcast stitch.

The yellow arrows show the sewing thread and the pink arrows show the overcast hemming stitches. Note the ‘shaggy’ ends of the cut yarn.

Cynthia MacDougall Canadian Guild of Knitters PO Box 20262 Barrie, Ontario L4M 6E9 705.722.6495 1.866.245.5648 (CGK-KNIT) www.CGKnitters.ca blog: cgknitters.blogspot.com ravelry name: theloveofknit

The other end of the sample was finished with a facing as follows: with right side facing and blue yarn, pick up and knit into the side stitches of the main fabric, (not the steek). Knit one row to create the turning ridge (see arrows in photo).

Knit 1 row, purl 1 row, knit 1 row, then cast off purlwise. Sew facing to inside of piece. This method is also used to make the front bands of cardigans, except that the bands are neither turned under nor hemmed down. The raw edges that remain may be hemmed simply, as above, or left raw to felt on their own.

Open out the finished piece. Block, if desired or necessary.

Photo by Mike Guilbault.

KNITmuch | issue 11

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KNITmuch | issue 11

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Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

KNITmuch

Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com Standard Yarn Weight System Standards & Guidelines For Crochet and Knitting • YarnStandards.com

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes Standard Yarn Weight System Standard Yarn Weight System Yarn Weight Symbol & Category Names

...to K, is to

Standard Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and abbreviations hook sizes & terms

Categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommended needle and hook sizes

alt = alternate approx = approximately Yarn WeightType of beg = begin(ning) Fingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Chunky, Bulky, Jumbo, BO= bind off Symbol & Yarns in 10 count Fingering, Light Afghan, Craft, CC = contrast color Roving Roving Category Category crochet thread Baby Worsted Aran Rug ch = chain Names cm = centimetre(s) Type of Fingering, Sock, DK, Worsted, Chunky, Knit Gauge cn = cable Bulky, needle Sport, Jumbo, Type of Range* inFingering, Sock, Worsted, Fingering, Chunky, Yarns in DK, 10 count Craft,co = cast on Sport, 23–26 Bulky,7–11 LightJumbo,6 sts Afghan, Baby Roving Roving 33–40** 27–32 21–24 16–20 12–15 cont = continue, continuing Yarns in Stockinette10 count Fingering, Light crochet thread Afghan, Craft, Category Baby Worsted Aran Rug Baby sts Roving sts Rovingand sts sts sts sts sts dc = double crochet Category Stitch tocrochet thread Baby Worsted Aran Rug fewer dec = decrease(s), decreasing Knit Gauge 4 inches dpn = double-pointed needle(s) Knit Gauge Range* in 6 sts 33–40** 27–32 23–26 21–246 sts 16–20 12–15foll = following 7–11 Range* in Recommended Stockinette and g = gram(s) 12.75 mm sts 33–40** 1.5–2.2527–32 2.25–3.25 23–263.25–3.75 21–243.75–4.5sts 16–204.5–5.5 sts 12–155.5–8 sts 7–11 sts sts 8–12.75 sts and StockinetteNeedle in Stitch to sts hdc = half double crochetfewer and sts sts sts sts sts sts mm mm mm mm mm mm inc = increase(s), increasing Stitch to Metric Size fewerlarger 4mm inches in(s) = inch(es) 4 inches Range k = knit Recommended 12.75and mm back of st (increase) kf&b or kfb = knit into front Recommended 17 4.5–5.5 Recommended Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75 3.75–4.5 5.5–8 ktbl = knit8–12.75 through the back loop 12.75 mm and Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 3 to 5 5 to 7 7 to 9 9 to 11 11 to 17 and Needle in 1.5–2.25 2.25–3.25 3.25–3.75Metric Size 3.75–4.5 mm4.5–5.5 mm 5.5–8 mm8–12.75 mm and mm mmk2tog = knitmm 2 sts tog (right-leaning decrease) larger Size Range larger Metric Size mm mm mm Range mm mm mm mm k3tog = knit 3 sts together (double right-leaning larger decrease) Range Crochet m = marker Recommended 17 Gauge*Ranges 32–42 6 sts Recommended 21–32 16–20 8–11 3 to 5 7–9 5 to 7 17 Needle U.S. 12–17 000 to 1 11–141 to 3 9 to 11m = meter(s) 11 to 17 and in Single double and 7 to 9 m1 = Make 1 stitch: pick up the horizontal strand sts Range5 to 7 sts Needle U.S. 000 to 1 1 to 3 sts 3 to 5 Size 7 to 9 sts 9 to 11 sts 11 to 17sts and largerfront to back and knit it between 2 stitches from Crochet to crochets** fewer Size Range4 inch larger tbl (lifted increase) Crochet MC = main color Crochet mm = millimetre(s) Gauge*Ranges 6 sts 32–42 Steel*** 21–32 16–20 12–176 sts15 mm 11–14 8–11oz = ounce(s) 7–9 Recommended Gauge*Ranges 32–421.6–1.4 mm in Single and double 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 6.5–9 9–15 21–32 16–20 12–17 11–14 sts 8–11 sts 7–9 sts and and sts sts p = purl sts in Single Hook in Metric doubleRegular hook Crochet crochets**sts5.5–6.5mm sts mm fewer mm mm to sts mm mm sts sts sts p2tog = purl 2 sts tog (decrease) Crochet to Size Rangecrochets**2.25 mm fewerlarger 4 inch patt = pattern 4 inch pfb = purl into front and back of stitch (increase) Steel*** pm = place marker 15 mm Recommended Steel*** Steel*** slipped stitch over 6.5–9psso = pass9–15 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 1.6–1.4 mm 15 mm Recommended 5.5–6.5mm and Hook in Metric Q Recommended 6, 7, 8 I–9 RS = right side 2.25–3.25 3.5–4.5 4.5–5.5 Regular hook 6.5–9K–10 1⁄2 mm 9–15M-13 mm 1.6–1.4 mm mm mm 5.5–6.5mmto mm and and Hook in Metric SizetoRange larger rem = remain(ing) Hook U.S.Regular Size hookRegular mm B–1 to E–4 mm E–4 7 mm 7 to I–9 mmto M-13 mm to Q 2.25 mm rep = repeat Size RangeRange largerlarger K–10 1⁄2 2.25 mm hook rev = reverse B–1 rnd = round Steel*** sc = single crochet Steel*** Q Recommended 6, 7, 8 I–9 sl1⁄2 = slip M-13 * GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

K–10 Recommended 6, 7, 8 skp = slip one st, knit next and st, pass slipped st over knit Hook U.S. Size RegularI–9 B–1 to E–4 E–4 to M-13 7 7 to I–9 Q to 1 K–10 ⁄ 2 to M-13 to Q Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a st (dec) and Hook U.S. Size** Regular B–1 to E–4 E–4 to 7 Rangethe7 gauge to I–9 stated to larger hook K–10 1⁄2 gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow in your pattern. to M-13 to Q ssk = slip, slip, knit: slip 2 sts knitwise, 1 at a time, insert larger Range hook K–10 1⁄2 B–1 *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse left-hand needle into front of both sts and knit B–1 of regular hook sizing. them tog (left-leaning decrease) sssk = slip next three stitches individually, knitwise.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are above available at: YarnStandards.com * GUIDELINES ONLY: The reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

Insert tip of left needle from front to back into * GUIDELINES ONLY: The above reflect the most commonly usedweight gaugesyarns and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories. ** Lace patterns.

Accordingly, a the fronts of these three stitches and knit them 11 are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork gaugeneedles range isand difficult toto determine.

Always followpatterns. the gauge stated in your together (double left-leaning decrease) ** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger hooks create lacy, openwork Accordingly, a pattern. gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern. st(s)the = hook, stitch(es) *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks--the higher the number, the smaller which is the reverse St st = stocking stitch regular hook sizing. *** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular of hooks--the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse tbl = through back loop of regular hook sizing.

This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com tog = together This Standards & Guidelines booklet and downloadable symbol artwork are available at: YarnStandards.com tr = treble crochet 11 WS = wrong side 11 yo = yarn over

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KNITmuch | issue 11

Yarn Weight Symbol & Sport, Category Baby Names