APJ Vol 11 2011

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS

The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ISSN: 1836-9812

Summer Issue Volume 11. 2011

Become an EYEBROW SPECIALIST Summer Issue Volume 11.

2011

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APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND

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PRODUCTS 㤵

8-9 22 28-29 38-40

CEO's Report The purpose and value of Strategic Alliance Partners Member profile The state of Australia's Aesthetics industry and the value of the human element 41 APAN Corporate Membership 70-72 Aesthetic Industry Bulletin 85 APAN Employee ad 104-107 Men in a Women's World 108-109 Scientific News

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REGULATIONS, EDUCATION, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 26-27 52-53 60-64 80-81

The launch of the first Post-Graduate Qualification for IPL & Laser Hair Reduction Designer Eyeliner Understanding & Creating Culture – Part 1 The new tool that will determine how old is your skin?

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, ANTI-AGEING AND INGREDIENTS 6-7

What do you need to know about the active ingredients you are using?

16-17 New studies identify genetic mutation may be responsible for severely dehydrated skin disorders 18-19 An exploration of Peptide Technology 34-36 How to effectively boost metabolism and improve the skin 58 The value and benefit of knowing the Hyaluronic Acid molecular sizes and weights 66-68 Medical herbs for the treatment of inflammation Chamomile 73 Marigold 82-84 Effective Weight-loss boosters 96-99 The Sweet Life 100-103 Physiological Effects of Vitamin E and its benefits to the skin 112-114 The launch of a new Wellness Facilitators' Program

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 12 14 24 32-33 48-50 86-87 88-89

Doomsday predictions are overrated The Launch of New Top-Level Domain Names Ask the Expert Seven tips to de-clutter your spa and improve efficiency Business in Brief Are we our behaviour or do we manage our behaviour?

The Science of the Hearth and the role it plays in Human Performance 90-93 Spotlight on Products 110-111 The value of establishing your own Manifesto

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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES

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37 42-46

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New Horizons Conference & Expo Townsville Age Management, prevention, integration and balance – An overview Canberra New Horizons – A great Success

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Editor Tina Viney 07 5593 0360

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Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com Mark Viney Phone: 0412 177 423 Email: apj@apanetwork.com Fax: 07 5593 0367

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Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney

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Editor’s Note

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Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

What an eventful year we have had. For some it has been an exceptionally difficult one. Floods and disasters, the fluctuating dollar, not to mention the opportunistic coupon deals that are sending many businesses to the wall even quicker.

However, beneath every cloud there is a silver lining, and there is one that is promising rewards for the aesthetics industry. There are some exciting and amazing new developments in skincare technology and the new boom in body shaping and slimming that is set to change our industry for the better, with new tools to revolutionise our services.

In this issue of APJ we profile some great information on peptides, hyaluronic acid and how various molecules and their weight are key factors you should look for when determining how to use them for the various skincare needs.

I have to say our industry is never boring.

There is always something new happening for which you will find a loyal clientele that is ready and willing to access your advice and services. So are you ready to step things up and re-energise your business?

I can assure you by the time you have finished reading this journal you will be. There are also some excellent reports – the A5M Medical Conference and Aesthetics Workshop held in Melbourne this year and New Horizons in Canberra. Both these reports will give you a glimpse as to what scientists and educators are saying. This will help you better understand and appreciate the changes that are happening in our industry.

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Staying on top of your profession requires commitment and application of knowledge, but once you get a glimpse of some of the exciting changes that are coming our way it will make your efforts and hard work so much more rewarding.

Meanwhile, if there are areas you would like us to cover in this journal please email me direct with your recommendations. I would love to hear from you.

As the end of another year approaches may 2011 close for you on a good note.

Take a well-deserving break and get your New Year's resolutions in place for a great 2012. Our desire for you is to help you achieve them.

Enjoy the summer issue of APJ and please feel free to give us your feedback.

Yo u c a n e m a i l m e o n info@apanetwork.com, phone me on 07 5593 0360 or even talk to me on Facebook as your opinions are important to us and help shape what we are offering you.

Thrive in your profession and enjoy life!

Tina Viney - Editor

Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Produced for Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169 Web: www.apanetwork.com Print Post Approved.

Circulation 6000 Accounts Manager Laraine Coyle 02 8004 5936 accounts@apanetwork.com Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd (APAN) PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt (Education) Wendy Neely (PR & Marketing) Dr Douglas Grose (Scientific) Caroline Nelson (Business) National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Kathleen Begley Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-9812 http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain Cover: Christian the property of Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. – Distributed by Be Beauty Pty Ltd Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been Phone: 0401 509 656 made to ensure that all scientific and technical information Email: kristy@bebeauty.com.au presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing.

Web: www.christianeyebrows.com.au However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial Please also see page 21 for further details. adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

APJ 5

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WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW About the Active Ingredients you are using?

by Gay Wardle

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New advances in product formulations have identified not just valuable ingredients, but now varying molecular structures that target different levels of the skin. For example the larger molecules support the skin's defence barrier against environmental damage, while smaller molecular structure may more efficiently target dehydration at a deeper skin level, offering effective anti-ageing benefits. Understanding your ingredients and how they are formulated can make all the difference in allowing you to achieve greater success in your treatment outcomes.

Gay Wardle is recognised as a leading educator in the area of skin analysis and techniques for advanced treatment results. In this article she addresses this all-important subject.

The ongoing development of new active ingredients in products we use means that we are constantly being challenged to expand our knowledge-base so that we can offer our clients the best results. Every new active ingredient comes with a fantastic spiel about what it can do, but you need to look past the hype to discover what is worth using.

There is an endless array of things you could focus on, but here are some simple questions you can ask yourself that can help you to form a framework in your mind to get the information you need to know.

Q1 What structure in the skin does the ingredient target and how does it work on that target structure?

It seems like an obvious question to ask, but often therapists focus on the result that an active ingredient will achieve and skip the step of actually understanding what the active ingredient is targeting. It is important to know what the target structure is because it helps to ensure you put together a program that will create long-term benefits for a client by delivering an optimal treatment effect. For example, if you are putting together a treatment program and two products you are using are targeting the same structure then you are potentially overtreating. If you were to know what the target structures were and how a product acts on the skin you are much better placed to design a program that has various elements working together in synergy.

Knowing how a product is working also helps you understand why certain ingredients have contra-indications for different skin types or skin conditions. Rather than simply ticking off a box on your client screening form you can understand the real reason the product is not suitable and you will be better equipped to come up with alternative ways to assist your client.

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It is important that you ensure your knowledge of skin structure is upto-date and at a high level to give you the basis to understand the effects of active ingredients. In my advanced training courses many therapists find that getting out of 'treatment mode' and reviewing their knowledge of the skin often opens up to them a whole host of new information that can help them better assess active ingredients and utilise products.

Q2 What concentration needs to be present to create an effect and how is the concentration of this product different from other products?

The best active ingredients won't produce results if they are not present in a high enough concentration or a particular chemical form.

It is important to know this not only so you can deliver great results, but also so you can tell a client how the product you are using is

different from a supermarket product. Once you know what is needed to create an effect then you can compare products to see how the concentration and the composition of the products differ. This will allow you to make an informed decision as to which is best for your client.

Q3 How many treatments are needed for it to be effective and what is the maximum numbers of treatments before effectiveness is lost or damage is done?

Some active ingredients deliver a visible effect quickly, while others require a number of treatments to create a cumulative effect on the skin before visible results can be seen. There is a point with many active ingredients where additional use will no longer create an effect.

Our clients need to see ongoing results to be satisfied with our service, so knowing the limits of treatment is an important thing to know. It becomes even more important to know when you are using more aggressive treatments, such as strong peels, that could potentially damage the structure of the skin long term if they are over-used. If you can know the limits of treatments in terms of what results they can potentially deliver then you know when to move your client on to the next phase of their treatment program where continued improvement can be expected or where the improvement can be maintained.

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Q4 What other preparation needs to be done to the skin to get the best results from the active ingredient?

I often see amazing results in advanced training courses when therapists start thinking synergistically and even holistically about treatment programs and start to become aware of how they can set up the skin to be ready to respond to a particular treatment. Sometimes restoring health to the skin can be quite simple, but can make all the difference in improving the skin's ability to respond to healing after an active ingredient is applied. If you can understand how the active ingredient is playing its role you can intelligently create a program that is going to deliver an effect that is greater than the sum of each treatment working on its own - this is what synergy is all about.

If you can get to the level where you are delivering comprehensive treatment programs to your clients you will achieve enhanced results for them, which will lead to greater professional satisfaction for you, in addition to increased financial rewards for your business. So before you switch into 'treatment mode' take a step back and think about how that active ingredient you are about to use is going to work, and hopefully this will help you identify how to take your treatment programs and client results to another level.

Gay Wardle is the principal of Master Dermal Academy and teaches advanced skin analysis and techniques to help salons and their staff to reach higher treatment outcomes through advanced knowledge of the skin. Gay's Training Courses are designed to bring a new level of knowledge and confidence through sound science and proven training principles.

As a multi-award winner Gay also trains others on her highly successful strategies that come from a strong understanding of what drives a salon to succeed and how to be known for exceptional results.

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To bring your knowledge and education to a higher level MDA is now offering Post-Graduate Courses to empower you for greater treatment results and business growth.

Training is available in most States.

Visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au or phone Gay Wardle on 0418 708 455.

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APJ 7

CEO’s REPORT

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Reflection: “The secret of joy in work is contained in one word – excellence.

To know how to do something well is to enjoy it.”

Pearl S. Buck, (1892-1972)

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It is also a well-known fact that some of the world's largest investment banks consider as a favourable criteria companies that have previously experienced bankruptcy and have came back on the market stronger.

VISORY NE

William Procter and James Gamble, who were brother-in-laws, started Procter & Gamble during the panic of 1837. With money in short supply and the nation mired in the worst economic decline up to that time, they persevered and their household goods business survived. Today three billion times a day P&G brands touch lives around the world. They distribute brands such as Wella, Olay, Gillette, Braun, Pantene and Duracell just to name a few.

The P& G community consists of 140,000 employees working in over 80 countries worldwide.

But what would have happened if their founders focused on the financial limitations of the time rather than their dream? ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Perhaps one of the most classic examples of tenacious success, Bill Gates dropped out of Harvard and started Microsoft in 1975. Money was tight and success did not come immediately. He had to overcome the odds and examine whether what he wanted to develop was worth fighting for.

Eventually rising from its humble roots in Albuquerque, New Mexico, Microsoft now brings in billions of dollars in revenue annually.

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I have to admit I am a perpetual student. I never stop learning as I enjoy the thrill of gaining new knowledge. The truth be said, while others are calculating the state of the world new information can allow us to move forward to explore untapped possibilities. Did you know that some of the seeds for great achievements have been sown during the world's most challenging financial times, and even during the Great Depression years? Let's just look at a couple of examples:

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The world is changing and the rules of survival are being rewritten. Because of the speed in which change is happening I really do not believe that professionals can afford to go it alone. It's time that we seriously looked at the value of being part of a professional community when it comes to gaining support and professional help from our industry. While social media is the new tool that many are turning to for bite-sized bits of information, these platforms can whet your appetite, but they cannot paint the whole picture. You really need industry and educational platforms that can ground you on new principles and consolidate our knowledge on changes ahead in a more comprehensive way.

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Dear Colleagues and Friends

AESTHETIC

CAN YOU SURVIVE ALONE?

CTITIO NE PRA

APAN STEPS-UP ITS GAME

As an industry advisory body we have also had to review our services and look at ways to improve what we deliver to our members. In reviewing industry needs and where members are struggling we have identified specific areas that we need to fine-tune our operations and tools. As a result we have doubled our research time and furthermore developed 45 APAN RESOURCE DOCUMENTS. Daily we receive phone calls from salons seeking guidance and advice. To help fine tune business practices and compliance issues these documents can fast track you to solving many problems.

They offer you summaries on how to address specific problems of business and staff-related concerns. While we do offer consulting and mentoring sessions, these documents are fantastic resources that step you through what you need to do to move forward. Some of the areas include such areas as: ! Managing underperformers ! Letters of first and second warning ! Wage Templates – Time sheets, roster, pay slips, weekly time, wages and If you attended New Horizons’ Conference program, but record sheets would like to review the information or allow your staff to !

Part-time hours work view it you can now purchase the full set of six DVDs boxed agreement variation for $166 including postage and handling. ! Employment record spread sheets This is an invaluable tool for you to refresh your knowledge ! Workplace Policy on what you have learnt, or if you were not able to attend here ! Growing your business is your chance to gain from the information presented. checklist To order please contact APAN ! Introduction to on info@apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360 workplace flexibility

NEW HORIZONS’ FULL CONFERENCE SIX DVD BOX SETS NOW AVAILABLE

and order your set today.

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This is just a snapshot on what is available to you. To identify how we can best help you please call us or email APAN for a mentor to get back to you. From there we can look at how we can best help you and recommend the appropriate support documents that will best address your needs. You can then purchase them at a small fee.

These documents have been carefully written with government or legal advice to ensure you gain the best possible advice.

INFORMATION AT YOUR FINGERTIPS As part of our commitment to this industry we have produced this journal. The information we present to you is designed to offer you the very latest developments in such a way that you can use it as a credible education and information tool. Please understand that a great deal of time and effort goes into its development and we encourage you to check the various articles, as they often answer many of the concerns for which we are contacted.

A MECCA FOR KNOWLEDGE APAN recognises the value of educational and networking events for professionals to congregate and gain valuable industry intelligence that can only be delivered through a face-to-face platform. The feedback from those who participated in these events is very encouraging and we have been urged to continue them for the benefit of the industry.

to your money as many banks do for 2-3 days and reinvest it to gain additional profits. Western Union, as they are not a bank, is not permitted to do this.

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Now APAN salons can choose to become Western Union Agents. If you are interested to provide this service a qualified Western Union representative will contact you at your request to install their software in your salon and train a staff member how to use it. This is at no cost to you.

You then will be given a window decal to advertise that you are a Western Union Agent so that interested parties can visit your salon when wanting to send money overseas. For this service you will receive a commission, but you also have the opportunity to gain new clients for your own salon or clinic services. Please refer to their ad in this journal (see page 22) for further details, or contact APAN if you have any queries. We will be glad to help you.

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If you are not a financial member of APAN we would like to welcome you to our community of practice. These and many other benefits await you.

Membership is fully tax deductible so consider the value of having a strong organisation supporting you in so many ways.

With the coming festive season may I take this opportunity to wish you all Merry Christmas and I trust you will make time to celebrate, relax and prepare for a great year in 2012.

Committed to your progress

Each year we will target a different State to stage the NEW HORIZONS events. You can expect great value and they are a must for those who wish to stay at the forefront of their profession. Please read a full report on the calibre of information we have presented this year in Canberra and look at joining us in May 2012 in Townsville, Qld where the next event will be staged.

NEW INCOME STREAM Thank you to all the members who have contacted us to express their appreciation for the various Strategic Alliance Partners we have established that are offering them great savings and exceptional service. The most appreciated so far are from our two insurance companies with two credible companies as well as the financial services for interest-free loans and an excellent leasing company with low-interest loans to purchase their equipment or lease them.

Please also check out the new merchantbanking facility with Efcom Solutions through Suncorp bank. There are some incredible savings to be made through these services as well.

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APAN is pleased to announce a new Strategic Alliance Partner to help businesses gain an additional income stream as well as gain new clients. Western Union is a global Fortune 500 company and is considered one of the world's leading and efficient foreign currency transfer companies. Their reputation is built on the speed by which a transaction can reach the other party in another country in just one hour. While they are government regulated under the same stringent measures as a bank they are not a bank, so they do not have the right to hold on

Chief Executive Officer

Important Announcement

DOING YOUR PART TO HELP THE INDUSTRY On the back of the cover sheet of the previous issue of APJ we included an INDUSTRY SURVEY that we asked you to fill in and return to us. THANK YOU to all who completed this survey and returned them to us.

This survey is revealing interesting information and we have decided to extend the survey deadline until the 25th December. The information presented to us is very important so if you did not get an opportunity to fill one in here is a second chance.

We trust you will give it your urgent attention.

We have included it again on the reverse side of the cover sheet of this journal.

You can also access the survey on our website www.apanetwork.com if that is easier for you to do.

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We want to THANK YOU in advance and look forward to your valuable feedback.

All entries will go in the draw for the fantastic book “The Longevity Project”.

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Please make sure we get your response by December 25th 2011.

MANY THANKS and GOOD LUCK!

APJ 9

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The tools for TRANSFORMING THE BODY can now be in your hands A slim, svelte figure is something that every woman or man wants, more so as summer is upon us. Clothes fit better and we are more comfortable with our body as we gain energy and flexibility, not to mention the improvement to how we feel and look. Helping your clients gain a well-sculptured figure without the appearance of cellulite is now within the reach of every salon, spa and clinic.

Two highly advanced technologies create an incredible dynamic synergy to improve the shape of the body – the IMPACT and the PRESOR-03, both considered as leading medical aesthetic modalities developed by SORISA – one of the most reputable manufacturers known worldwide for their innovations. The Sorisa IMPACT is the latest technological advancement that has a significant and measurable effect on localised areas of fat, reduction of cellulite and skin flaccidity.

SORISA uses the cutting edge ultrasound cavitation technique with electroporation to multiply the effects of the procedure, redefining and sculpting the figure, while diminishing cellulite and localised areas of fat. It also highly effective in improving skin texture and tone post liposuction.

Cavitation is a specific technology (equivalent to liposuction) that generates deeper and slower penetrating waves that are directed at the fat-cell layers of the skin to dissolve and effectively reduce the volume of fatty tissue. It is designed to target the thighs, hips, abdomen and even arms, disrupting the fat cells without damaging the surrounding tissues. The fat is then eliminated from the body naturally through the

lymphatic system.

The electroporation facilitates the deeper penetration of the highly concentrated active gel, enhances the sculpturing of the body and offering significant loss in centimetres. The IMPACT protocols offer an effective means of improving metabolism, destroying fat-cell membrane, removing toxins and facilitating the absorption of nutrients. Its exceptional and exclusive design probes allow the therapist to view the state of the treatment, the ultrasonic power emitted and the intensity of electroporation, for maximum treatment efficacy. Ideal for medispa, spas, salons or medical aesthetic clinics, the IMPACT column unit is free standing, mobile and sophisticated, and can be easily integrated into other treatment modalities.

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More than just a feel-good therapy for renewal, the revolutionary and sophisticated SORISA PRESOR-03 Therapy is a breakthrough, therapeutic method of addressing various concerns to restore harmony, health and vitality, the benefits of which have been clinically tested and proven in the fields of medicine, post-cosmetic surgery and physiotherapy. In addition, when used in conjunction with spa and beauty services (facials and body treatments) results are always beyond expectation.

PRESOR-03 works by computerised air pressure that inflates into a boot (similar to a body wrap) covering feet, legs, hips, buttocks and abdomen. This gentle pressure continually moves across the lower body and over the abdomen, pumping into the different compartments at varying dosage rates. Simple and efficient, taking only 25 minutes, it offers immediate results in relieving feelings of tiredness, jet lag, hangover, stress and low energy. The PRESOR-03 can be customised to the concerns, is comfortable, safe and relaxing.

Its application activates the return circulation (venous and lymphatic flow) by stimulating the reabsorption of interstitial fluids and the drainage of these fluids towards the organic filtering mechanisms. It promotes effective lymphatic drainage, helping the body eliminate toxic wastes and cleansing and strengthening the immune system. In addition to its detoxification benefits it offers relief to menopausal symptoms, headaches, muscular aches and pains, hormonal imbalances, varicose veins, oedema, circulatory disorders, sluggish skin and speeding up recovery after cosmetic surgery.

Call Vogue Image Group on 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033 or email info@vogueimage.com.au

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SORISA PRESOR-03 THERAPY – Total renewal & improved health

IMPACT and PRESOR-03 can be used independently, however, when combined as complementary treatments they can notably accelerate credible results for all of the above conditions. These treatments are the new growth sector in demand from leading salons and clinics.

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IMPACT The latest generation of Cavitation System

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The alternative to Liposuction that Works at the Speed of Sound The Sorisa IMPACT is the latest advanced technology that offers impressive results on localised areas of fat, reduction of cellulite and skin flaccidity. Sorisa uses cutting edge ultrasound technology at an impressive 40KHz function delivered through cavitation technique and combined with electroporation to multiply the results of the procedure, redefine and sculpture the figure and diminish the appearance of cellulite and localised areas of fat.

With IMPACT you will gain true results:

! ! ! ! !

Destruction of fat cell membrane Improve cellular metabolism Release deposits from fat cell walls Effective removal of toxins and wastes Increase absorption of nutrients

Call VOGUE IMAGE GROUP now 1800 55 45 45

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businessforecast ㄰

longer require our natural resources. While I worry about the debt issue in Europe, it seems to me that our prospects link strongly to the world's largest economy, the US.

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Yes, I do know that our exports to the US pale into insignificance compared with those to China and other Asian countries, but can I remind you that the combined economic output from China and India is currently around 40% of America's output: Interestingly, it is very easy to get a negative read on the US economy by following the Australian media.

As I said in the DecemberJanuary issue of Money, I share the opinion that the US is reinventing itself rather than decaying. The last week or so I have spent in the US paints a very different picture to the one I read about at home. It is worth looking at just a little of the better news coming out of the US. Firstly, the population of 308.7 million has increased by 30 million in the past decade. Now that is some increased consumer demand. US consumer spending is around 70% of the US economy.

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Doomsday Predictions are Overrated

By Paul Clitheroe Some people believe that if you are not saturated with pessimism about the state of the economy you have your head buried in the sand. However, it is amazing how those who chose to focus on the good news rather than the bad, for some unknown reason seem to be doing quite well. Is it possible that we attract that which we believe and focus on? It is APAN’s position that although it is prudent to take precautionary measures towards self-preservation and financial management there is also a danger that in this process you may camp in the field of fear and trepidation.

While the following article is not addressed specifically to the aesthetics industry it does deal with universal issues that affect all of us and comes from Paul Clitheroe – an expert in the area of financial forecasts.

Economic data is available by the truckload, so we should all be fully informed and have senses of certainty about the outlook for the economy over the next few years. But the problem is that much of the information is conflicting and it is just as easy to give a dire outlook as a positive one. But for me, I try to wrap it all up with a bit of common sense. It is quite obvious Australia had a pretty good 2010. Sure it was not a good year for everyone, but let's face it; there will never be a year when we all do well. People get sick and die. Businesses fail, some parts of our economy will suffer from a low or high Australian dollar, we may be in flood or drought. High interest rates may hurt borrowers. Bit beneath those with a mortgage or other debts. But when I see unemployment at around 5% and a significant job creation, 2010 may not have been perfect, but I've seen worse. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

So what about 2011 and beyond? Well my common-sense approach tells me of a few certainties. First, we are a very small economy that sells stuff to others, hopes that tourists and overseas students will come to visit and live with us, has a strong service sector and despite all the whingeing, a society with an imperfect but global competitive health and education system with genuine political and social stability.

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In terms of people buying stuff from us, a supplier of energy and food is not a bad place to be. While demand will have its ups and downs, it is hard to imagine that our neighbours, such as China, will suddenly no

Fewer firings and rising income are boosting confidence. Income rose 0.5% in October and 0.2% in November. Household purchases rose 0.4% in October and 0.5% in November. Car sales are strong, albeit supported by the stimulus package.

Boeing has a very strong order book for new jets, mainly for Asia.

Speaking of reinvention, the US airlines offered 119,000 seats a week to and from Asia in 2009. In 2011 this is 214,000.

Numbers released in early January 2011 showed a sharp rise in tax collections. This has boosted national tax collections above that generated prior to the global financial crisis. Even perennial basket case California has seen tax up 8.6% in the five months to November 2010, or an additional $2.5 billion. Don't get too excited though; this just means no cash crisis for 2011.

Let's also not forget that the US share market had a solid 2010. For 2011, Wall Street analysts are predicting gains from 3% to 26%, but as should always be the case, some doomsday forecasts exist, predicting everything from a market collapse to a complete oblivion.

So, while the doomsday forecasts always have a slim chance of being correct, the weight of the evidence points me towards a pretty typical period. We’ll muddle along as we always have done. But as millions of people globally move each year from poverty into the middle classes, along with a global growing population, augurs well for consumer demand. No doubt we will get some nasty frights from the credit markets and much of the Western world has to rein in spending, but the world is historically in a better shape than we think.

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Paul Clithoroe is a founding director of financial planning firm IPAC, Chairman of the Australian Government Financial Literacy Board and Chief Commentator of Money magazine. Article from Money magazine Feb 2011 published with permission.

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APJ 12

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legalmatters The Launch of New Top-Level Domain Names

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By Michael Bishop Pointon Partner Lawyers ㈵

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The Internet Corporation for Assigned Names and Numbers (ICANN) recently approved one of the most dramatic changes to the internet domain name system.

DOMAIN NAME Each website on the Internet has a unique number associated to it known as a Internet Protocol Address. Rather than relying on remembering an Internet Protocol Address that is not easy to recall a Domain Name is used. A Domain Name is a distinct name that corresponds with an Internet Protocol Address.

ICANN The ICANN's role is to ensure that the transmission of information on the Internet operates with ease for all web users. Domain names are registered through domain name registrars. The ICANN provides guidelines for domain name registrars, who must be accredited by the ICANN. The ICANN also has the power to approve new domain names or to set conditions to domain names. ICANN aim to keep the Internet “secure, stable and interoperable”. [1]

TOP-LEVEL DOMAIN NAMES The Board of Directors of the ICANN resolved to considerably increase the number of generic top-level domain names. Additionally, domain names will also be able to end in any language and script. The decision comes after several years of debate and discussions.

A top-level domain name is the ending of a domain name, for example .org or .net. Generic top-level domain names (gTLD) are those that are relatively common, including .com, .edu, .net and .gov.

Presently there are only 22 gTLDs. There is no set number on gTLDs to be introduced. It has been indicted by the ICANN that anywhere between 300 and 1000 new gTLDs may be introduced.

President and Chief Executive Officer of ICANN, Rod Beckstrom, stated “ICANN has opened the Internet’s naming system to unleash the global human imagination. We hope this allows the domain name system to better serve mankind”. [2] ㄰

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With the introduction of new gTLDs many businesses will be able to register their trademark as a TLD. For instance we may soon see .google or .anz. It is likely that many large businesses will be quick to move to register their own brand. It will enable businesses to build their brands online and strengthen their brand protection.

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Geographic name extensions are also likely to be introduced such as .melbourne, however, only government departments will be able to

register city and State name TLDs. Although, local businesses may wish to secure their own Melbourne domain name such as pointonpartners.melbourne.

The introduction of new gTLDs will revolutionise the way consumers search the Internet with less reliance on search engines. It will allow businesses greater control over their company websites and the ability to create a unique identity.

The Chairman of the ICANN's Board of Directors announced, “We have provided a platform for the next generation of creativity and inspiration”. [3]

TRADE MARK The registration of a company, business or domain name does not automatically give rise to trademark proprietary rights, nor to the right to use that name as a trademark. There are numerous benefits to registering a trademark. Registration of a trademark grants the owner of the trademark the exclusive right to use the mark throughout the Commonwealth of Australia as a registered brand name in association with the goods and/or service in which it is registered.

A trademark is personal property of the owner, which may be sold or assigned. An owner of a trademark may protect their mark under IP law.

THE APPLICATION PROCESS

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Any business or government may apply for a new TLD. Applications for new gTLDs will be accepted between 12 January, 2012 and 12 April, 2012.

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The application process will be complex with significant costs

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involved in both the establishment and maintenance of a new TLD. The application fee alone for an applicant is estimated to be $US185,000. An annual registration fee of $US25,000 will also be payable. [4] The high costs and complex process may deter many potential cybersquatters who may wish to exploit existing trade marks by registering a TLD and then selling it for a profit. However, if a company views a potential TLD that would infringe their trade mark rights they may wish to formally oppose the TLD application. Objections can be made to the Arbitration and Mediation Centre of the World Intellectual Property Office.

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If businesses are interested in applying for a new TLD then it is crucial that they begin preparing to ensure that they are equipped when applications open in 2012 as there may not be another opportunity to register for years to come, at which stage their TLD may be registered.

An applicant guidebook will be available addressing the rules on applying for a TLD and also a step by step procedure. If you have any queries regarding the above then please contact David Mazzeo or Sophie Morelli of our office.

REFERENCES 1. http://www.icann.org/en/about/ 2. http://www.icann.org/en/announcements/announcement20jun11-en.htm 3. http://www.icann.org/en/announcements/announcement20jun11-en.htm 4. http://www.icann.org/en/topics/new-gtlds/gtld-facts-31jul11en.pdf

POINTON PARTNERS LAWYERS If you have any queries in relation to the above article or any other legal issues affecting your business please feel free to contact Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners.

APAN members receive an initial free consultation in relation to any legal queries or issues they may have.

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Pointon Partners is a client-focused commercial law firm based in Melbourne, but which services clients nationally. Pointon Partners is able to assist with: ! advice on obligations under the Fair Work Act & the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010; ! preparation of employment contracts; ! advice on termination of staff & defending of unfair dismissal claims; ! registration of trademarks; ! trademark disputes; ! preparation or review of commercial leases; ! negotiation & preparation of commercial contracts; ! franchising; ! wills and estate planning; and ! buying or selling a business.

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Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners can be contacted on (03) 9642 8668 or by email mjb@pointonpartners.com.au or ah@pointonpartners.com.au

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New studies identify

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GENETIC MUTATION

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may be responsible for

Severely Dehydrated Skin Disorders

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Filaggrin is a type of protein found in the skin. Mutation of the filaggrin gene can interfere with the skin's ability to act as a barrier.

This allows water to be lost from the skin, and also means bacteria and other substances can enter, possibly leading to allergies, irritation and infection due to a chronically dry and dehydrated skin condition.

CLINICAL SIGNIFICANCE Scientific studies have now discovered that having a filaggrin gene mutation has been found to be associated with atopic eczema, where patches of dry skin become itchy and inflamed, and some allergic conditions such as rhinitis, where the nasal passages are irritated. The same mutation is also present in cases of ichthyosis vulgaris, where the skin becomes dry and scaly. It is thought that allergic reactions to nickel may be due to a filaggrin gene defect, because this might lead to nickel passing into the skin more easily. Currently there is no test generally available for people to see whether they have the gene mutation, but this could change in the future.

In the granular layer of the skin there are keratohyalin granules inside the cells.

These granules contain profilaggrin molecules, which are converted into filaggrin. This is then used to help create the structure of the outer layers of skin. It does this by gathering together strands of a protein known as keratin, helping to form the skeletons of skin cells into tough, compact shapes. Filaggrin also helps to hold water inside skin cells, keeping the skin moisturised. This newfound knowledge of filaggrin has led to further studies to determine how to counteract this deficiency.

Scientists have discovered the role of certain peptides that stimulate hyaluronic acid can benefit dry skin conditions as they become cross-reactive with filaggrin.

THE MECHANISMS OF DEHYDRATION As we age, our skin structure changes and becomes less effective at regulating its water balance, skin cells no longer retain moisture, collagen fibres weaken and cellular regeneration slows down. The body's natural regenerative systems cannot revitalise injured or damaged cells fast enough to maintain skin quality.

Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) causes lack of moisture leading to changes in barrier properties, which induces dry skin. It leads to a water-content decrease followed by Natural Moisturising Factor loss and structural change of the stratum corneum's proteins, which contribute to the abnormal differentiation of

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keratinocytes, scaly skin condition and noticeable premature ageing.

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Lack of water in or around cells disrupts normal metabolism and tissue repair.

Therefore, dehydrated skin has a decreased capacity for repair and regeneration, thus it is far more susceptible to various forms of skin damage and is also more prone to skin infections and irritants.

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Hyaluronic acid also supports the formation and maintenance of collagen. Loss of collagen integrity contributes to a decrease in skin tone and elasticity. During ageing the skin loses moisture and firmness due to crosslinking of hyaluronic acid within the skin as well as loss of collagen fibre strength. As a result, the skin starts to lose its elasticity, causing lines and wrinkles to appear.

The ability to retain and hold moisture is the secret to youthful, healthy, vibrant skin with breakthrough Moisture Fusion

HOW DOES THE SKIN RETAIN MOISTURE? The following enable water molecules to enter the stratum corneum: Intercellular lamellar lipids – ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids Their physical form provides a tight and partially penetrable barrier to the passage of water through the tissue.

Corneocytes Corneodesmosomes Influence the curvy passage of the stratum corneum and thereby the diffusion path length of water.

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Christina has developed a technologically advanced form of Nano Hyaluronic Acid with an extra low molecular weight so that it doesn't simply cover the skin's surface, but has the capacity to penetrate deep into the horny layers, hydrating and retaining moisture from within, providing long-lasting optimal hydration.

To further minimise the depletion of the skin's hyaluronic acid a special hyaluronic acid boosting peptide has been identified.

Te t r a d e c y l A m i n o b u t y r o y l v a l y l a m i n o b u t y r i c U r e a Trifluoroacetate. A clinical study made with this Hyaluronic Acid Boosting Peptide demonstrated that it accelerates the skin's own natural production of hyaluronic acid within the epidermis, thus providing and retaining long-lasting hydration.

Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) A natural protection shield against dehydration found exclusively in the stratum corneum and derived from filaggrin absorbs water molecules from the surrounding environment helping to retain water.

The NMF is an effective mixture of low molecular weight watersoluble compounds absorbing atmospheric water and dissolving in their own water of hydration. It mainly consists of amino acids, which increase the water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum and helps maintain its homeostasis.

The water retained by the stratum corenum increases the fluidity of corneocyte proteins giving elastic properties to the cells, which is critical for preventing and recovering from skin dryness.

MOISTURE FUSION SOLUTION The scientific team at Christina has developed a solution for skin dehydration called the Moisture Fusion Solution. Clinical research and innovative active ingredients have proven to provide the optimal hydration solution, preventing the effect of ageing and skin damage.

These include a unique form of Hyaluronic acid and a Hyaluronic acid boosting Peptide:

Hyaluronic Acid is a predominant glycoaminoglycan (GAG) of the skin. It occurs naturally and exists in large concentrations in the dermis and the epidermis in the extracellular matrix (ECM), which is the fluid-filled space between cells, where it plays an important role in skin-barrier function and stratum corneum hydration.

Simultaneously, it improves and strengthens collagen fibres resulting in a natural hyaluronic acid-based facelift effect. Slowing down the loss of moisture from the skin creates a temporary appearance of plumpness and fullness.

SUPERMOIST Supermoist is an advanced complex developed by Christina designed to notably restore skin health and moisture in dry skin conditions. It is enriched with skin healing and regenerating agents that repair damaged skin caused by Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). It contains amino acids from the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) present in the skin, which enables it to preserve the natural barrier function of the epidermis by providing a refill of NMF ingredients.

With its unique molecular film structure, Supermoist has greater contact area with the skin, minimising TEWL while enabling active ingredients to penetrate more efficiently and provide intense hydration.

The Supermoist complex proved to induce a significant moisturising effect and an outstanding long-lasting improvement in skin health even after 24 hours of use.

Through these technological breakthroughs Christina offers you credible solutions for dry and dehydrated skin that effectively address not just the symptoms, but in fact target the problem at its source for significant skin improvement.

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It has an excellent moisture-holding property, consisting of a long sugar chain that can bind up to 1,000 times its weight in water, leading to a gel-like framework for collagen, elastin and skin cells. It maintains an inter-cellular gap to sustain skin tissue structure and is involved in the structure and organisation of the ECM and participates in dynamic processes such as cell proliferation, migration and wound repair. It acts as filler, which helps provide the skin with mechanical cushioning.

For further details on Christina products contact

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SKIN FACTORS PTY LTD 1800 824 282 www.christina-cosmeceuticals.com.au

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An Explosion of

Peptide Technology Offering real solutions to skin improvement and anti-ageing results

By Daryll Knowles and Melissa Meeve As aesthetic professionals, consumers come to us to "fix" their skin concerns and look to us for expert advice, treatment and product recommendations. Knowing the latest ingredients and identifying their activities is now becoming a growing area for which we need to have answers. As research identifies the effectiveness of peptide technology so we will see a variety of different peptides addressing various skincare concerns. Do you know how to identify them and what activities and actions they can deliver to the skin? This article presented by Daryll Knowles and Melissa Meeve presents valuable information that can answer some of these questions.

The new generation ingredients have “exploded” over the past 10 years and the most exciting thing is they have generally been introduced with clinical evidence that they work. The most exciting of which is peptide technology. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Skin ageing is a problem faced by all at some stage in life, and can be caused or exasperated by a number of factors. Skin ageing may be a result of general chronological ageing, hormonal ageing, or oxidative damage from excessive exposure to UV rays, pollutants and smoking.

Skin ageing causes a number of visible changes, including sagging, wrinkles, erythema, dyspigmentation, keratoses and poor texture. In the past we have tried to hide the effects of ageing, however, these days we have developments that allow us to protect the skin from unnecessary ageing and also repair damaged, aged skin.

Deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) is a nucleic acid that contains the genetic instructions used in the development and functioning of all known living organisms and some viruses. The main role of DNA molecules is the long-term storage of information. DNA is often compared to a set of blueprints or a recipe, or a code, since it contains the instructions needed to construct other components of cells, such as proteins and RNA molecules. The DNA segments that carry this genetic information are called genes, but other DNA sequences have structural purposes, or are involved in regulating the use of this genetic information.

Peptide technology is where small fractions of DNA or RNA proteins are used to mimic the effect of DNA or RNA. Effectively, what we are doing is making small RNA molecules that cause an effect in skin.

Different sequences of amino acids cause different effects as they

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affect different sections of DNA in skin cells. The main actions of these actives are: 1. Skin whitening – this is usually by reducing peptide activities such as tyrosinase.

2. Skin toning and firming – increasing collagen and elastin production in the dermal matrix, or by blocking nerve synapses to relax muscle tone.

3. Rejuvenating – maintaining the dermis and allowing the skin to internally repair and protect itself.

4. Moisturising and cleansing – restoring pH. 5. Protecting – against UV damage.

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SKIN WHITENING Skin colour is an important attribute of beauty. Asian cultures associate lighter and an even complexion with a higher social status compared to Western cultures, where a tanned complexion is associated with a healthy glow. Whitening products are also used to treat age spots and hyperpigmentation.

Nonapeptide-1 – is an antagonist of α-MSH by preventing any further activation of the tyrosinase, and thus blocking melanin synthesis. Tyrosinase inhibition reduces the formation of unwanted pigmentation. This allows for control over skin tone and brown spots.

Applications for nonapeptide-1 include lightening skin, equalising skin tone, correcting age spots and for skin illumination.

Oligopeptide-68 – decreases proteins involved in the pigmentation process such as MITF, TRP-1, TRP-2 and tyrosinase. It also inhibits tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis for optimal whitening efficacy. It is useful for whitening, age-spot treatment, evening skin tone, photo-ageing and skin brightening.

SKIN TONING AND FIRMING Anti-wrinkle peptides are now considered to be the holy grail of cosmetics. The following are collagen and elastin proliferative peptides. They stimulate cell metabolism, dermal collagen synthesis and cell proliferation.

PROTECTION A major part of harmful effects to the skin is mediated by free radicals or reactive oxygen species (ROS). These are generated by inflammatory process and UVA radiation then potentiated by heavy metals.

Palmitoyl oligopeptides ! Palmitoyl-Glycyl-Histidyl-Lysine – stimulates collagen neosynthesis.

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Palmitoyl-Valyl-Glycyl-Valyl-Alanyl-ProlylGlycine – elastic sequence of elastin.

Palmitoyl GQPR – is a healing peptide. It activates neosynthesis of matrix macromolecules, plumping and reducing fine wrinkles. It is also useful as a stretch-mark therapy by stimulating wound healing and tissue regeneration by way of collagen matrix build-up.

Palmitoyl GHK – is involved in restructuring the connective tissue by stimulating the production of collagen and of the glycosaminoglycans and acts as a natural sun protector. It also firms skin and helps with wrinkles.

Waglerin-1 Tripeptide – has a Botox-like activity. It mimics the effect of waglerin-1, a protein found in the venom of the Temple Viper. The snake venom blocks the nerve impulses to the muscles, thereby paralysing its victim causing death. The synthetic peptide version imitates only part of the venom action. It causes relaxation of facial muscle contractions, resulting in a reduction of wrinkles and smooth skin. This snake venom-like mode of activity is an excellent anti-wrinkle compound as it smooths wrinkles in a short period of time – typically a few days.

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Damage is caused when heat stress, UVA, is not adequately countered by a sufficient protective enzyme capability to convert the ROS into an inactive species. There are three naturally occurring enzyme systems, which are neutralised by heat stress and UV exposure. These are catalase, glutathione peroxidise and superoxide dismutase (SOD).

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Thermus Thermophilus peptide (TTP) TTP is an anti-ageing ingredient that helps prevent the visible signs of

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photo-ageing. It protects cell structures from UV damage and protects skin integrity by mimicking the anti-free radical (anti-oxidant) protective enzymes found naturally in the skin such as catalase, glutathione peroxidise and superoxide dismutases (SOD).

benefits and wellness. Binding between neuroreceptors and their transmitters induces modulation of cellular activities and skin functions. Some of these include: ! Immune regulation ! Cell proliferation ! Differentiation ! Pigmentation ! Lipolysis

TTP is obtained from the fermentation of bacterium Thermus thermophilus, which is found in the Pacific Ocean. It grows optimally in extreme conditions, including extreme temperature, pressure and pH, where free radical concentration is tremendous. TTP provides much stronger protection to the skin than common antioxidants such as vitamin E. It is capable of protecting against lipid peroxidation and DNA damage from UVA radiation.

Acetyl Hexapeptide – is a

During testing, TTP was seen to reverse key signs of ageing such as imperfections, wrinkles, lentigines (freckles) and UV-induced spots such as sun and age spots.

REJUVENATING Trepenone – is derived from geranylgeranyl phosphate and has been shown to have detoxification activity, repair DNA and maintain telomeres. Geranylgeranone is said to not only fight wrinkles, but to also “restore a youthful appearance” by treating loss of tone and other common skin ailments put down to ageing. It acts as both a cell facilitator and corrector counteracting the cutaneous dysfunctions.

These are related to less-efficient cell physiology that leads to ageing cells. Extending cell life results in an anti-ageing effect.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1 – mimics the activity of the α-MSH and stimulates melanin production. It can also be used as a photoprotector and inflammation modulator. Its tanning action and protecting properties make it a perfect ingredient for inclusion in anti-ageing, photo damage, suncare, aftersun, sensitive and soothing care formulations.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1's stimulation of melanin synthesis can also be used to reverse the grey-hair process. It decreases the number of white and low pigmented cells, and increases the number of moderate and highly pigmented cells in hair bulbs.

Biotinoyl Tetrapeptide-1 – fights the follicle ageing process by stimulation of follicle cell metabolism, leading to a slowdown in hair loss. It is perfect as a hair-loss treatment ingredient and for hair strengthening. ㄰

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 – prevents and stops the hair-loss process and 㤵 㜵

stimulates hair growth. It has a direct action on 5-α-reductase, which modulates dihydrotestosterone (DHT) to prevent hair miniaturisation.

It stimulates collagen to improve hair anchoring, and also reduces damage caused by inflammation, to reduce the hair-loss process and stimulate hair growth.

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Neuropeptides

A neurocosmetic is topical application of active ingredients with neurophysiological activities, to obtain cosmetic and aesthetic

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liposuction-like peptide. It acts as an agonist of active isoforms of the melanocortin receptor, including lipolysis in adipocytes.

Butyryl Pentapeptide – is a sunless self-tan. It induces melanogenesis by the activation of the mechanism of action of the α-MSH. It induces stimulation of cAMP for the expression of tyrosinase, TRP-1 and DTC. All of these enzymes are essential in the production of melanin.

Synthetic peptides can open a new generation of active ingredients with a huge range of applications in the cosmetic field. Peptide creams allow aesthetic, dermal and medical aesthetic therapists a chance to offer patients a cosmeceutical product that they know will work and achieve a visible result for the patient. It gives clients or patients a choice of treatment that it completely non-invasive and is a financially more viable option compared to costly surgeries and laser treatments.

Commercial brands of these anti-ageing cosmetics that include these peptides are now beginning to circulate the market, but the problem is that many do not include high enough concentrations of these active ingredients. Recommended strengths of these peptides and cosmetic products vary depending upon the peptide, and also the desired results, but many require over 3% to achieve visible results. Many department-store peptide formulations have as low as 0.02% of the active peptide ingredient.

Customised compounded formulations may be the answer.

Compounding pharmacies have the ability to custom make products to meet the specific needs of a patient. This enables the clinician to analyse the patient's needs and choose the most appropriate formulation and strength.

Darryl Knowles holds a Bachelor of Pharmacy from Sydney University and has over 22 years of formulating compound experience. He is also a graduate of PCCA Aseptic SterileTechniques and Primary Training Course (Houston, Texas). During this time he was awarded by the Australian Institute of Pharmacy Management, “Pharmacy Manager of the Year” in 1995. He is currently a recipient of The AustralAsian Fellowship in AntiAgeing, Regenerative & Functional Medicine. Daryll provides extensive training and lectures to graduate pharmacists as a preceptor for Sydney University and University of Queensland Master of Pharmacy & Bachelor of Pharmacy Programs and is affiliated with Curtin University, Perth. He also lectures for the A5M Fellowship in Anti-Ageing, Regenerative and Functional Medicine. Daryll Knowles is also the CEO of the pharmaceutical NxGen Group of Companies.

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Melissa Meeve graduated from The University of Wollongong with a Bachelor of Commerce majoring in Marketing and Economics in 2004.

Since then, Melissa has been working within the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry in various sales and marketing roles. Melissa is currently employed as the Marketing Manager of the pharmaceutical NxGen Group of Companies, and has been since 2007.

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Become an EYEBROW SPECIALIST While waxing and eyebrow tinting can offer a level of improvement to your clients' eyebrows these services cannot always achieve the level of perfection that can create the wow factor and give the eyes an instant lift. Designing an incredible eyebrow is a service that is in vogue and in very high demand, but it requires a great deal of skill for which clients are prepared to pay for. Full training can be quite costly and the service can take up to one hour to achieve the results. Now there is a better way.

Christian Semi-Permanent Eyebrow Make-up – is the ultimate

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professional solution for creating the perfect eyebrows in seconds. With several templates for ease of application and a variety of incredible colours you now have the best tools that offer you flexibility to perfectly match and customise the most flattering colour and shape for your clients' eyebrows.

Christian Semi-Permanent Eyebrow Make-up – is extremely effective for a fashion finish, but is also for people who have no, or minimal eyebrows.

The semi-permanent eyebrow powder sticks to the skin filling in any gaps and even covering grey hair. Once applied, it will last for 24 hours and will stay on even with swimming, showering or a sauna visit.

Christian Semi-Permanent Eyebrow Make-up – offers a wonderful salon service and is also available in attractively presented packaging for retail sales with a generous mark-up.

Contact us today and let us show you how Christian Semi-Permanent Eyebrow Make-up can help you grow your business. Phone Kristy on 040 1509 656 or Email kristy@bebeauty.com.au

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strategicpartners !

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BUSINESS COACHING – our business coachers are specialist in the area of beauty with vast industry experience and knowledge. They can therefore assist you to quickly identify and implement the right policies and procedures as well as strategies to achieve your business success. Our chief strategic alliance partner is with Caroline Nelson of Nelson Beauty Business. We also work with Phillip Fernandez from Wizard Business Consulting.

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SUNCORP BANK – we have established a strategic alliance

WESTERN UNION – offer APAN members the opportunity to gain an income stream through commissions for providing international money transfer, while being given the opportunity to come in contact with new individuals who could potentially become new clients.

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partnership with Suncorp Bank through a master policy for APAN members to receive the best rates for merchant banking and credit card service. They are efficient and provide us with exceptional service.

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LEGAL ADVISOR – our solicitors Pointon Partners are expert in their field and provide us and our members with exceptional service on industrial relations and business law.

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APAN

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FINANCIAL SERVICES – we offer two separate options in

financial services. We have one which offers interest-free loans for our members' clients to gain interest free loans or to establish a regular repayment service on your behalf.

We also work with an additional company who works with over 120 lenders to secure the best possible interest rate for loans or leasing arrangements. The fee for this service is normally $400, but as an APAN member there is no charge.

The Purpose and Value of STRATEGIC ALLIANCE PARTNERS As part of our commitment to our members APAN systematically reviews industry needs and expectations to identify ways that we can save you money and assist you in streamlining your operations.

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Part of that activity includes the recent developing of key documents that are made available to members at a small fee, or at a larger cost to non-members. These documents assist you to achieve expert recommendations on how to navigate through difficult situations that may require for you to also meet with government compliance requirements, such as Fair Work regulations. We also offer business tools to help you with establishing policies and procedures for your business and to evaluate your business growth and progress.

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STRATEGIC ALLIANCE PARTNERS Another activity that we are committed to is identifying companies and services that can support your needs and negotiate and establish a STRATEGIC ALLIANCE PARTNERSHIP with these companies on behalf of our members.

HOW IS A STRATEGIC ALLIANCE PARTNER SELECTED?

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All our Strategic Alliance Partners must meet certain criteria before we accept them. Our members rely on us to ensure those we recommend are reputable and reliable companies. As such, we conduct due diligence with all the companies prior to allowing them to become Strategic Alliance Partners. Another criteria is that these companies must address a specific need that is of interest to our members. These may include:

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INSURANCE – All insurance parties that APAN is associated with are “Specialists” insurers for the beauty and aesthetics industry. We offer two insurance options The Sparrow Group and Marsh. As an industry we believe that the best insurance companies are those that negotiate with industry bodies to ensure that their products meet with our industry's needs and expectations.

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SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING – APAN recognises the expertise of Brand New Solutions as the most credible marketing, branding and PR company with an impeccable reputation of excellence in delivering credible, efficient and quality service with excellent results.

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SUPERANNUATION – After reviewing various superannuation funds APAN has established a Strategic Alliance Partnership with CareSuper. The two key competitive advantages for this choice are that they are an industry superfund, which means you have low fees and the second is that when we compared the average return on investment we found them to be superior to other funds.

The above is not a complete list of the current partners we have in place or those we are in negotiations with. However, it gives you some idea of the scope and purpose of what we are trying to achieve for our members.

As an industry standards body servicing the Aesthetics industry APAN strives for excellence in quality service to its members and operates with integrity and commitment in all its negotiations and dealings, placing the benefits of its members first. ㄰

We are also committed to supporting quality education through the staging of educational and expo events in regional areas. These events aim to foster effective networks and a place for the industry to interact, celebrate and grow stronger.

Membership is open to numerous categories including aesthetic medical, educators and of course all beauty and aesthetic therapists. For further details contact us on 07 55930360 Email: info@apanetwork or visit us on www.apanetwork.com

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NEW STRATEGIC ALLIANCE WITH WESTERN UNION TO PROVIDE A NEW SOURCE OF INCOME

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APAN In difficult economic times survivors and thrivers think outside the box. You need new clients and new revenue streams.

APAN is pleased to offer its members a great opportunity that can help you achieve just that with minimal outlay of time and effort to tap into the credibility of a Fortune 500 global company and let them drive new business to your door.

Western Union is offering APAN members the opportunity to become Agents of their Money transfer services. With more than 160 years of experience and over 450,000 Agent locations around the world in 200 countries, the Western Union network is the largest of its kind. Millions of people trust Western Union to send or receive money around the world within minutes.

It costs nothing to offer the Western Union service each agent earns a commission per transaction. The advantages to your business are:

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Customer acquisition another service for you to offer to your customer base Additional revenue from commissions Free software to process transactions Free training and ongoing support Quick transaction processing time Free Signage and Point Of Sale material

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Current Western Union agents earn thousands of dollars per month. ㈵

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For further information or to register for this service phone APAN 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com

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ASK THE EXPERT

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Solutions, insights and advice for problems that arise at work

I am looking at employing a staff member. Do I need to put in place a Workplace Policy if I already have my Policies and Procedures Manual for running of the salon?

You need to understand that while your Policies and Procedures Manual addresses the way that your treatments are to be performed, how your clients are to be addressed, and the day-to-day duties and responsibilities on how you would like your business to operate, it only covers one aspect of the business.

On the other hand a Workplace Policy addresses a whole lot of different areas that if left undefined and without clear guidelines of expectations, can cause you a lot of grief further down the track, which you do not need. It can provide you with a safety net for potential misunderstandings, not to mention financial loss.

A WORKPLACE POLICY DOCUMENT Workplace policies often reinforce and clarify standard operating procedure in a workplace. Well-written policies help employers manage staff more effectively by defining acceptable and unacceptable behaviour in the workplace, and set out the implications of not complying with those policies.

A workplace policy consists of a statement of purpose and one or more broad guidelines on action to be taken to achieve that purpose. The statement of purpose should rarely exceed one page in length and should be written in simple terms free of jargon. The length of the policy may vary depending on the issue it addresses.

A policy may allow discretion in its implementation and the basis of that discretion may be stated as part of the policy. A policy may be required where there is a diversity of interests and preferences, which result in vague and conflicting objectives among those who are directly involved.

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Not all workplace issues require a policy. Many routine matters can be dealt through simple procedures. However, key areas you should look to include are such matters as: ! Occupational Health and Safety policy ! Dress Code policy ! Code of Ethics policy ! KPI evaluation and review policy ! Recruitment policy ! Mobile phone policy ! Smoking and drugs policy ! Anti-discrimination and harassment policy ! Grievance-handling policy ! Discrimination policy ! Termination policy ! Annual leave policy Many of these areas you are required by law to have in place. If you have never prepared such a document APAN can assist you. We offer an eight-page document that outlines everything you need. If you are a financial member it only costs you $30+ $5 for postage and handling and $45 + $5 for postage and handling if you are not a member. This document is very helpful in guiding you with explanations of the various areas you need to complete. As a financial member you can also call to speak to a mentor who can guide you through this process.

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I am having a lot of problems with a particular staff member, who is gossiping and badmouthing the management. She has a real attitude and is constantly complaining to other staff members.

Should I give her a warning letter and can you help me with this?

First, you need to re-examine your Workplace Policy to ensure that you have a Grievance Policy in place. This should have been explained to your staff member at the commencement of her employment. Every effort should be made to ensure that all your staff members feel comfortable and are encouraged to discuss any concerns with you, or the salon manager honestly. However, despite every good intention a situation may arise where a staff member may be unhappy about something. This is where a Workplace Policy should make it very clear who they will need to speak to in the event of a grievance.

Of course it should be made clear in the policy that that person is not another staff member (unless they are the manager) and definitely not a client. Staff members need to have clear guidelines about such matters in order to maintain order and avoid having to be reprimanded when they have done the wrong thing. Without those guidelines they will most likely discuss their concerns with inappropriate individuals.

This can be quite destructive for staff morale, not to mention for business.

With regards to a warning letter there are four letters you should have in place.

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A first letter of warning A second letter of warning Final letter of warning Letter of termination – this is be supported by a “serious misconduct summary dismissal document”.

You can purchase templates for all these letters from APAN. They only cost $10 each for members and $20 for non-members. Another valuable document that could benefit you is our Managing Underperformers Document. This document will give you guidelines on how to address such concerns. These cost $25 for members and $38 for non-members. In fact APAN has over 45 documents to assist you with a number of concerns. We also gain the support, service and assistance of our lawyers – Pointon Partners – who ensure we are kept up-to-date and are available to assist us and our members for all staffing and business matters.

Growing a business where you will need to employ staff will require certain obligations. But with correct Workplace Policies and with the appropriate guidelines you should be able to keep staff grievances to a minimum.

If we can assist you further please do not hesitate to contact APAN on 07 5593 0360.

If you would like your questions answered by an APAN Expert send them to the editor at info@apanetwork.com. No names will be disclosed to maintain your privacy.

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APJ 24

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For further information phone the Salon Group on 1800 655 814 or Email salons@salonsgroup.com Web: www.dashingdivapro.com.au

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The launch of the first

Post-Graduate Qualification for

IPL & Laser Hair Reduction

By Karen Banks Service Industry Skills Council It has been several years now that industry bodies and associations have pursued the Government for the introduction of regulations for such modalities as IPL and Laser. While this has yet to be finalised despite continued dialogue between the stakeholders, there is now formal post-graduate qualifications through a new Vocational Graduate Certificate that attempts to introduce training to a qualification level. Karen Banks is the Senior Project Officer for the Service Industry Skills Council. In this article she presents the latest training products to be introduced.

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The introduction of a new or updated Training Framework, known as a Training Package, is a time of change for any industry, but the updates to the National Beauty Qualifications will provide an opportunity to skill new therapists in current industry practices, as well as increase professionalism in the industry through the introduction of new qualifications.

Two new qualifications have been developed to address the rapidly growing beauty industry, and to provide therapists with an opportunity to train in Post-Graduate qualifications that are nationally recognised.

existing State Accredited Courses to a National Qualification. The training for this qualification, known as the Vocational Graduate Certificate in Intense Pulsed Light and Laser Hair Reduction, not only includes how to use the modalities, but also the all important theory that underpins its safe use.

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Ensuring that all therapists understand how the modalities work, the risks involved, and the importance of regular servicing and maintenance, along with the in-depth knowledge of anatomy and physiology, including the Fitzpatrick Scale, will ensure they are able to make informed decision on client treatments at all stages.

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The introduction of a qualification to train therapists in the safe use of Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) and Laser for Hair Reduction builds up

The delivery of training for this qualification aims to ensure that therapists are exposed to a range of clients over a significant period of

APJ 26

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time, providing them with the skills and knowledge required to operate effectively in a clinic or salon. Training providers will employ a variety of methods to achieve this and may look to industry partners for support.

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Key to ensuring the successful implementation of this qualification by training providers, and the take-up by therapists and employers, is a mutual understanding of its intent and purpose.

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The Vocational Graduate Certificate in Intense Pulsed Light and Laser Hair Reduction is the first Post-Graduate Qualification to be included in the Training Package. Its quality implementation will be a key to determining the future direction of the National Training Framework at a Post-Graduate level.

DIPLOMA IN SALON MANAGEMENT The second new qualification that has been developed focuses on business and management skills in the industry. The Diploma of Salon Management provides training in human resources, leading teams, marketing, financial and business practices in a beauty or hairdressing environment. With the constant state of change in the industry, the development of sound business skills will provide salon and clinic owners and managers the necessary business skills to survive and grow during this time.

The two most common qualifications sought by employers in the industry are the Certificate IV in Beauty Therapy and the Diploma of Beauty Therapy. The content of both qualifications has been updated to better reflect current practices in salons in Australia. We see the introduction of training in new areas such as Cosmetic Tanning and Microdermabrasion as well the focusing of both qualifications on the technical skills required to be a beauty therapist.

In this Training Package we recognise the importance of nail technicians, make-up artists, beauticians and beauty therapists being trained in current industry practices. We have included new requirements to ensure that all trainers and assessors of beauty training from the National Training Framework keep current with what is happening in their industry. This is paramount for all qualifications, and even more so for the post-graduate qualifications.

We have also developed an industry recognition program to acknowledge quality training providers of training in the beauty industry. Keep an eye out for the Right Way logo on any marketing material from your local training provider. If this logo is present, it means that the college has undergone an evaluation from the National Skills Council and industry practitioners to have their facilities, trainers or assessors, or learning resources, acknowledged as meeting industry standards.

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Karen Banks is the Senior Project Officer with the Service Industry Skills Council. Service Skills Australia is a not-forprofit independent organisation, which is one of 11 Industry Skills Councils funded by the Australian Government Department of Education Employment and Workplace Relations (DEEWR) to support skills development for our industry. It consults and engages with industry, training organisations, government and other stakeholders to develop and support the implementation of nationally recognised training products that respond to industry needs. For further details visit www.serviceskills.com.au or contact Karen Banks on 02 8243 1200.

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2. Tell us where your passion lies in your work?

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As I increased my knowledge and training I was eventually introduced to the intriguing world of light-based therapies and this changed my business. I identified my passion in corrective skin therapy. I undertook training with Tina Czech, principal of the Australian Institute of Laser Therapy, and gained a great deal of knowledge on Laser and later IPL. Eventually I introduced both technologies in my clinic as I gained a strong appreciation of the capabilities of each device and the solutions they could offer my clients. We were now able to address difficult skin conditions and achieve greater results and indeed, we did get some fantastic results. We also introduced microdermabrasion, advanced peels and in recent times skin needling.

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I am now about to introduce two new lasers – a Yellow Pulsed Light and another poly dermal laser, which has 12 diodes.

These new technologies are allowing us to treat further challenging skin conditions such as reducing the pain of cystic acne, while also achieving a strong anti-inflammatory effect.

With the Yellow Pulsed Light we can achieve excellent lifting, toning and skin rejuvenation for areas such as the eyes and the neck. It is exciting and amazing how these technologies can now allow us to address even more advanced and corrective work.

member profile

3. Having started as a basic beauty therapy salon and progressed into a clinic, how do you now divide your services?

We now offer three levels of service: Personal grooming – waxing, tinting, manicures and pedicures, etc ! Wellness and Relaxation – this includes a variety of different massages, body wraps and even relaxation facials ! Clinical services – this is the corrective and anti-ageing work – IPL, Laser, peels, electrolysis, cosmetic tattooing and even injectables if clients request them.

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4. What do you enjoying doing the most?

I only do the clinical work, while other staff members take care of the rest. There are five of us and between us, depending on where our strengths lie, we handle the various service sectors.

5. You are living a very busy life, how do you relax?

We are delighted to continue profiling a different APAN member in each issue of APJ as this has been welcomed by many of you who have indicated your appreciation of this feature. It would appear that many of our readers enjoy learning about other colleagues and discover who they really are as well as their views and opinions.

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In this issue we present to you Judith LeBrocque, owner of Cosmedic Skin, Scar and Body Centre in Sunbury, Victoria.

1. Tell us a little about your background and how you got started out in the beauty industry?

I was originally from NSW and moved to Victoria 31 years ago. My daughter was just six weeks old at the time. I decided to start a beauty business from scratch and I have operated my business now for over 30 years. Back then we mainly performed basic treatments – facials, waxing, tinting, etc, but with time I continued to grow my knowledge and education.

That is an easy one, I totally relax with my grandchildren! I have two – one is two-and-half months and the other five-and-a-half months.

When I am with them all my cares just melt away. I also do Pilates two times a week and Zumba classes twice a week and I also walk.

6. What about hobbies?

I am very consumed with work, but I do enjoy reading. I thoroughly enjoyed Eat, Pray and Love, both the book and the movie were fantastic. I also love to travel. I have travelled overseas, but I have decided to explore Australia a little more. There are so many fantastic places to discover here. I recently visited Port Douglas for the first time. It was great. I also love food – Italian and French are my favourites, but I also love healthy quality food such as vegetables and fish. I am very much into knowing and understanding appropriate supplementation and recognise the value of an alkaline diet. I take chlorophyll every day and I do attend medical conference such as A5M to stay up to date with research findings for anti-ageing and disease prevention. I pass on my knowledge to my clients and put

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them on special programs. I am very much a visual person, so I draw cartoons of cells to educate my clients on how to get from sickness to wellness.

Through my Pilates classes I have also made some great new friends.

This allows me to gain a broader spectrum of information, which I appreciate and enjoy. I am fortunate that I have a wonderful and dynamic family. My children are innovative and interesting and I enjoy their company and spending time with them. I also attend as many educational and motivational seminars and conferences as possible. Recently, I attended a fantastic conference with some incredible speakers such as Anthony Robbins and Robert Kiyosaki. I gained so much from this event and value the challenge to constantly pursue to reach my full potential.

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7. Why did you join APAN and what are you gaining from your membership?

I have always been a member of several Associations, but when APAN was launched I joined it because I appreciated the focus of this organisation and what they are doing for the good of the industry and their members. I find that they meet all of my needs. I also recognise that they are forward thinking and appreciate their quality educational events for our benefit. I also commend them for aligning themselves with the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M).

Our industry needs this level of education as it gives us greater credibility in what we do. My only disappointment is that too many in the industry fail to appreciate the value of these events and support them. They are missing out on some incredible education that can help shape their future.

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Judith LeBrocque can be contacted at Cosmedic Skin, Scar & Body Centre, SUNBURY ,Victoria Phone: 03 9744 3696.

APJ 29

Enjoy a full and delightful selection of Dr Atia's retail and professional range of products from mineral compact foundation, makeup primers, blushes, bronzers, mineral eyeshadows, brow enhancers, lash-treating mineral mascara, eyeliners, plumping lip gloss, professional brushes and boxed gift sets.

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Dr Atia's Mineral Makeup range has both professional and retail product items suitable for beauty salons, cosmetic clinics and day spas.

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Add a dash of summer colour to your salon with Dr Atia's Plump-a-licious and Glamour Eyes mineral makeup displays, which also include non-surgical brow enhancers. Feature the latest, exciting New York fashion colour trend this summer. They will definitely impress your clients and entice them to purchase from you.

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The Skin O2 Premium Mineral Makeup range will provide you with a specialised doctor’s formula of mineral makeup that synergistically combines the benefits of quality skincare in the form of makeup.

Dr Atia's Mineral Makeup contains the highest content of natural minerals combined with potent active vitamins and anti-ageing peptides to help treat the skin, while you wear it!

Utilising the secret ingredients and well-known formulas used by dermatologists and skin specialists, this product will help you achieve more healthy, youthful-looking and radiant skin for your clients or patients.

Doctor Atia successfully helped millions of patients to break the cycle of using makeup as purely a cover-up. Every day millions of women bucket on pore-clogging and skin-polluting old-style makeup that is actually damaging to their skin and often contributes to breakouts and unnecessary premature ageing.

Now you can experience the benefits of using a premium doctor's formula mineral makeup that is an extension of quality skin and beauty care.

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Loved by beauty editors and featured in Marie Claire, Famous and professional industry magazines, isn't your turn to discover why doctors and other skincare professionals recommend Skin O2 mineral makeup? Enjoy wearing a makeup foundation that lets your skin breathe and helps you achieve a lighter, brighter, clearer and more youthful complexion. Or a lip gloss that helps to plump and enhance your lips and mascara that helps grow and treat your lashes, while you wear it! Now that's a fresh new approach.

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Dr Atia's Mineral Makeup is suitable for all skin types and 㜵

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perfect for sensitive, acne or ageing skin. It is also excellent for post-cosmetic surgery laser or peels. It contains natural mineral sun protective factors and clever adaptatone technology so it looks and feels natural on all skin types, while providing protection from pollution and oxidative environmental stress.

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APJ 30

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Seven Tips to De-clutter Your Spa and Improve Efficiency

By Caroline Nelson At a seminar I presented recently a spa owner ask me about tips I could give her on how to make her business run more efficiently. Over the course of the conversation I realised this lady had created so many procedures and policies in such a higgledy-piggledy way that she was swamping her team in random paperwork. Much of which didn't provide the support they needed to perform their job efficiently and most were just "Blue Tacked" on the staff room wall instead of being provided in a documented format and presented in a practical folder.

This is a recipe for disaster and that's exactly what was happening in her business.

I have a very practical way to de-clutter and it's not just about tidying things up just to “make it neat”. It's about creating more workable systems that you and your team all feel works for the business as a whole. Working in chaos can be very stressful and in some cases debilitating for certain individuals. And from speaking with the above-mentioned spa owner's staff this was happening. They felt that while their boss wanted them to perform well and reach targets she was putting roadblocks in the way of them performing to their best.

THE SEVEN SPA DE-CLUTTER TIPS

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From further investigations it turns out this lady was the perfect example of a clutter-bug spa owner. She admitted that she was a hoarder and had difficulty throwing out paper, but loved creating more and in her own words. “My office always looks like a bomb has hit it, and only I can find things, which can be a problem for my employees when I'm not there”. So it was very apparent she needed help to organise and streamline processes and create a more effective system to operate her business. In this article I would like to share with APAN readers the seven tips to de-clutter and improve efficiency that I provided this spa owner.

1. Policies and Procedures Manual – You must provide your team with a Staff Policies and Procedures manual*(for more information please read at the end of this article). This is a documented employee handbook that becomes the most important communication and guidebook between you and your employees. It sets out your expectations for your employees so there can be no misunderstandings, and also what they can expect from you. In addition to describing your legal obligations as an employer, their rights, and also what is expected of them, it also sets out the way you

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APJ 32

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want the business to operate from the opening of the door in the morning and the closing at night – and everything else in between.

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Your manual needs to be designed to support your business’s operations, raising customer-service standards and providing the team with the tools to keep a high-level service standards on a continual base. This will ensure improved customer satisfaction, lift rebooking return rates and make the job much easier for your team. And it will remove the need for the clutter of loose pages stuck on your staff room wall.

take up. And don't forget to back up all documents that you create on an external drive; disk or USB files. Make sure you have copies of your computer programs and know where there are located in case you ever need to reinstall them. And finally, make sure you to install a very effective firewall, good virus protection and use a surge protector for your computer.

I have a very practical way to declutter and it's not just about tidying things up just to “make it neat”. It's about creating more workable systems that you and your team all feel works for the business as a whole.

2. Clean up your service menu – Go through your service sales for the past 12 months and check the numbers of each service. If you see a service that is hardly ever performed then make the decision to either promote it (but only if it's a high-profit service) or delete it from the menu. By reducing the number of services on offer it makes your menu easier for customers to read, understand, make a decision, and ultimately make a booking.

3. Streamline each procedure and process in each treatment room – Reorganise so that each room (where the same services are performed in) has exactly the same set-up or mirror image. Get rid of all old bottles of out-of-date products and bits and bobs that are cluttering up the place. Conduct a time-in-motion study to analyses the way your treatment room and therapists perform within it to see what might be a more efficient method in time and effort. Once everything has been streamlined you will find many services become more profitable to perform.

7. Develop good habits that keep you on-track – Make sure you share these habits with your team. Induct them into the new improved and clutter-free environment and you will be amazed how efficiently your business will operate, and also as a bonus, how much more profitable it will be.

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To finish I would like to draw your attention back to the spa owner mentioned at the beginning of this article. I recently happened to be in the shopping centre where she has her beautiful spa and I am happy to report she and her team are enjoying their new streamlined business. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2011 Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry specific business coach specialising in helping salon and spa owners to operate supersuccessful businesses. Her * Salon Spa Staff Policies Systems Manual is recognised as the “industry bible” and one of the most important tools any salon or spa business owner can implement into their business. To find out more about Caroline's business tools and coaching please contact her on 0410 600 440 or check her website www.SalonSpaBusiness.com

4. Filing System – Set up an effective filing system for your office, regardless of whether it's located at your business or home office.

Keep it simple, because if it's complicated you just won't use it and will go back to the desk piled high or things shoved into drawers and cupboards to be out of the way. A filing cabinet is a must, but if you don't have space then arch lever files are a good alternative. If you have a filing cabinet with suspension files then make sure you categorise and label each file. If, however, you are using the arch folder my suggestion is you use different colour folders for each main category. And please do not overload your filing drawers because if everything is squashed in like sardines in a can you won't be able to find things easily, which totally defeats the purpose of effective and efficient.

5. Clear incoming mail and paperwork quickly – Start an open-

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action or file-toss policy. If you deal with mail each day when you receive it then it won't build up into the size of Mount Everest and clutter your desk and office. A bit of advice is to reconcile your bank statements/s when they come in – remember they do frequently make mistakes and you need to jump on this quickly. Try and set up auto payments wherever possible and make use of Internet banking.

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6. Computer filing – It's just as easy to lose things in your computer ㈵

filing system as it is a paper filing system unless you keep an organised system. So, once again, keep things in files and categories and subcategories. Regularly empty your recycle bin; delete tmp files; and clear out old emails – you will be amazed just how much space they

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APJ 33

healthbenefits

How to effectively BOOST METABOLISM & IMPROVE THE SKIN

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By Harry Good

It seems crazy that in this day and age our lifestyles are the primary cause of illness and premature ageing. Despite the explosion of wellness products and services, personal trainers, detox diets and organic foods, statistics reveal an epidemic of obesity, diabetes and illnesses linked to modern-day lifestyles. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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While technology is leaping forward, community health is going backwards. Modern living has changed the nature of healthcare, as more and more resources are now directed at fighting the effects of sedentary habits, fast foods and chemical residues lingering in our bodies.

Healthcare needs to be more about wellness education and illness prevention than finding a cure. Cures in themselves are not solving the problem. Of primary concern is how modern lifestyles affect our metabolism.

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THE ENGINE OF HEALTH The metabolism could be described as the power within us that drives every minor and major process in the body. It's the life force that beats the heart, digests our food, sends nutrients around the body, eliminates waste and regenerates over one million new cells every minute. It's a constant ebb and flow of DNA-controlled cellular processes that strive to maintain a healthy pH, optimum oxygen levels and a healthy immune system.

A healthy metabolism makes our skin glow with health, our eyes sparkle and nerves calm. “Maintaining a healthy lifestyle is the key to longevity and healthy life” – that's the message we are hearing from medical and government experts around the world.

The intricate life forces guided by our metabolism are under constant threat from modern-day living. Our bodies are under daily attack from

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APJ 34

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enemies that we barely even notice on a conscious level. On a monthly basis we might only notice small changes in our appearance, but on the inside we are fighting wars and battles daily to survive.

With anti-ageing being a multi-billion-dollar industry, it's critical as therapists, whether you are dealing with the skin or the body, that you understand the basics of how the body repairs itself and the lifestyle issues that hinder our repair and rejuvenation processes.

CHEMICALS AND YOUR HEALTH It's almost impossible these days not to be affected by toxins that damage out health. The amount we absorb daily can be staggering.

There are hundreds of toxins our lungs may absorb on a daily basis, from traffic pollution to the common chemicals in our homes and workplace.

Did you know that there are over 3000 different chemicals we can absorb into our skin by way of tap water, your daily shower, cosmetics, cleansers and skincare products, etc. Hundreds more chemicals are absorbed from food additives, colours, flavour enhancers, sweeteners, preservatives and the list goes on. Since WWII, over 10,000 chemicals have invaded our lives and our homes, most of them devoted to creating the items we buy at the supermarket.

It's impossible to predict to what degree an individual suffers from chemicals. Thousands of chemicals are circulating within every one of us, as they are almost impossible to avoid.

A healthy metabolism is important as it helps us eliminate chemical residues, which can otherwise seriously affect the health of our skin, the immune system and our everyday wellbeing.

Just talking to people about the benefits of fresh foods and exercise is a good place to start. The more we all learn about our world and the hidden hazards lurking around us, the more conscious our food and lifestyle choices. It's not surprising that we are now seeing the beauty and anti-ageing industry adopting lifestyle education into their arena.

Yet there are always those who want a quick fix, or who simply find it too hard to make lifestyle changes, hence the popularity of Botox, liposuction, lap-band surgery and dozens of other enhancements. The question is how long do these procures last and is the cost worth the risk?

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On the non-surgical front, new treatments that help to boost the metabolism are helping us not only look and feel healthier, they can inspire us to eat healthier and get back into exercise. One such treatment is called sweat therapy or thermal therapy. Health clinics in Europe and Asia have utilised the metabolic benefits of heat to help their clients detox and reduce stress. While saunas have been the traditional method, new technology has turned the old-fashioned sauna into a modern compact chamber that's economical and practical to use in the clinic environment.

Thermal chambers can be used to provide a beauty and wellness treatment that helps support and enhance existing services of any health and beauty clinic.

The science behind thermal therapy is relatively simple. When the body is warmed it naturally increases the circulation to create a sweat and promote cooling, which is what happens when we exercise.

Thermal-chamber treatments warm the body with far infra-red heat.

THE BENEFITS OF FAR INFRA-RED Exercise of course is one of the key ways to energise the metabolism.

By boosting the circulation and lymphatic system and working up a healthy sweat exercise promotes a healthy heart, helps eliminate wastes and strengthens the immune system.

Far infra-red is a spectrum of light produced by the sun that generates heat. It's invisible, but you'll see it in action on those TV cop shows with helicopters following people in the dark. Body heat can be seen with infra-red night-vision goggles.

KEY FACTORS LINKED TO PREMATURE AGEING

Far infra-red heat rays won't tan or burn the skin. They are on a different wavelength to the UVA or UVB rays. Also known as FIR, it's this heat that is the most therapeutic in terms of warming the body.

Those in the beauty industry may be familiar with FIR Detox boxes or body wraps, while sports physiotherapists use FIR lamps to help speed the recovery of injuries. The human body is made up of around 60% water. FIR radiant heat excites and activates the water molecules in the body, resulting in many health and beauty benefits.

There are five key lifestyles factors that are linked to premature ageing and a host of other illnesses – 1. A poor diet – think supermarket shopping, fast foods, soft drinks 2. A lack of exercise 3. Exposure to chemicals – cleaning products, cosmetics, pesticides 4. Stress – the pressures of work, finance, relationships, etc 5. Electro-magnetic pollution From the moment we are born these factors affect every one of us. For a majority of modern families, unhealthy lifestyles are the result of highly effective TV advertising campaigns that trap the unwary. Most parents are too busy to consider the risks of fast foods and processed cereals (for example) until it's too late – hence the huge numbers of teens with obesity, diabetes and eating disorders.

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Over 80% of cancers are linked to 'lifestyle syndromes? Fifty years ago cancer was typically a news story linked to cigarette smoking.

Today it's lifestyles that make the headlines – and it's costing our country billions in healthcare costs.

ENHANCE METABOLISM Lifestyles are now a major topic for those in the natural health and beauty industries. It's important that wellness therapists talk with their clients about the benefits of a healthy lifestyle, and how small changes in everyday habits can lead to big rewards at the end of the year.

Metabolic body chambers are certainly of great benefit when targeting cellulite, excess fat, stretch marks and of course wrinkles. In essence they help speed the body's own rejuvenation and detoxification processes, which are essential especially for those with a sluggish metabolism – typically people who don't get the exercise they need.

The chambers are designed to be placed over a client while they lie on a massage table. Their design enables the body to be wrapped in a cocoon of far infra-red waves. ㄰

Many people report that their skin feels and looks younger after regular exposure to FIR heat. The increase in blood circulation and lymphatic flow helps to circulate stem cells, nutrients and oxygen around the body, while toxins and wastes are collected and transported to be eliminated through the sweat. The body makes good use of the heat as an energiser, which enables it to boost rejuvenation activity, while the person relaxes.

The far infra-red heat penetrates around eight cms into the body, from

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Fight the signs of Ageing, Detox and BOOST METABOLISM With Health Chambers

the neck down (the head remains outside the chamber). During a 30minute treatment, the body absorbs the heat and transfers the energy directly into circulation and elimination. Congested cells are able to offload wastes and toxins into the increased blood and lymphatic flow, which takes a load off the liver and kidneys.

For the past 35 years doctors in Europe and Japan have conducted extensive research on the therapeutic uses of infra-red and point out that methods to induce sweating have been used for centuries to bring improved health and relief from disease. The body can burn as much as 500 calories every session, which makes thermal therapy a powerful weapon in the fight against obesity.

The skin thrives with heat therapy, especially in the absence of any ultra-violet or tanning rays. It means that years of toxic wastes and chemical build-up can efficiently be excreted by the body's powerful waste-disposal system.

As chemical residues are exerted from the skin, healthier new skin cells can safely emerge. You might ask how can healthy new skin cells emerge from a person who is saturated with chemicals?

Direct from the wellness clinics of Europe comes the ultimate In holistic beauty with metabolic wellness treatments:

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Reduce stress Promote deep rest and improve sleep Boost circulation and metabolism Reduce the appearance of cellulite and stretch marks Stimulate collagen for younger-looking skin

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Detoxify the body and rediscover lost energy. While nothing beats regular exercise, ThermaDome provides the benefits of exercise to help boost metabolism and enhance rejuvenation.

Amazingly simple, yet highly effective! Offer your clients 30 minute treatment for skin rejuvenation with added health benefits. Introduce a new service to your clients or even sell them the ThermoDome for their home use. The choice is yours.

Far infra-red waves also assist and accelerate the regeneration of collagen and elastin, which are the vital cells for smooth and refined skin. Another benefit of FIR treatments is a boost in the circulation of adult stem cells around the body. Adult stem cells are now being widely researched as holding the key to fighting the ageing process and reversing many illnesses.

While chamber heat treatments help speed up the metabolism, at the same time they can also help to dissolve stress. In Europe sauna treatments are recommended for people who are stressed and suffer from depression. Some experts say that over 60% of all visits to doctors are related to stress. By introducing stress-relieving treatments that also promote detoxification and younger-looking skin, a clinic is able to improve the wellbeing of their clients on many levels.

Stress can not only lead to eating disorders and sleep problems, it can be a real disaster for the skin. Stress causes the body to become more acidic, and this in itself can cause problems Body acidity is also a topic being introduced by beauty clinics. The body is healthiest at a pH of around 7.3, but today people are typically much more acidic due to their consumption of processed foods, coffee, alcohol, soft drinks, wheat, sugar and dairy. Maintaining a healthy pH is vital when looking at any anti-ageing program and there are many online resources available if you want to research this topic further.

METABOLIC MAKEOVER MADE EASY

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A healthy metabolism helps the body slow down ageing and protects against environmental toxins. Our body is constantly fighting a battle against invaders, genetic mutations and pre-cancerous cells, working overtime to protect our health. When the metabolism starts to fade, the signs of poor health and premature ageing can set in. We can't fight the battle if we don't have a good metabolism.

By implementing an holistic approach to total wellness and skinrejuvenation services, therapists can help their clients on many different levels. Encouraging a healthy lifestyle may include alkalineforming foods, exercise and eliminating harmful chemicals from the home. Health and beauty work hand-in-hand, and you can't have one without the other.

Future Health Research

Ph: 07 5641 2275 Email: Thermadome@gmail.com www.MetabolicTreatments.com

THERMADOME Metabolic treatments are easy to implement with the help of chambers such as the new ThermaDome range, which includes two models to cater for people of all shapes and sizes. They are designed so that even the smallest clinic rooms (2mx3m) can effectively provide FIR treatments to clients.

Women will be delighted to learn that a boost to their metabolism helps generate the younger-looking skin they desire. Typical issues such as stretch marks, cellulite, wrinkles and age spots can all be resolved with healthier food choices and metabolic treatments.

Knowing that over 80% of the population don't get enough exercise, over 60% are stressed, over 70% eat processed foods and more than 90% are burdened with chemical residues, there's never been a more important time to become 'pro-active' with not only our clients, but also our staff, families and friends.

With 'metabolic makeovers' on the menu, clinics can provide both inspiration and motivation, plus reap the benefits and rewards of truly making a difference.

Harry Good graduated at Peter Derig's NSW College of Natural Therapies in 1977. With illness prevention as the goal, he set up Australia's first sugarfree ice cream company in 1979 that supplied over 30 health food stores. In 1981 he became a partner in a major vegetarian and organic bakery in Sydney's eastern suburbs, which vastly improved the quality of takeaway food that was available. In 1993 Harry created an Australian Aromatherapy export company, launching products in over 1000 stores across the USA. He spent four years consulting for businesses in America, and he is now devoted to helping beauty and health practitioners, government and community projects working to get people back into healthy living. He lectures and speaks on a wide range of health topics, and is currently working on a documentary about the metabolic syndrome.

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NEW HORIZONS Business and Professional Development

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REGISTRATION EARLY BIRD'S SPECIAL BEFORE 10th May 2012 FULL CONFERENCE PROGRAM Including Lunch, Morning & Afternoon Tea APAN MEMBERS: $100 NON-MEMBERS: $120

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Staying ahead of your competitors and gaining the most up-to-date industry intelligence has never been more fun. NEW HORIZONS is a leading educational and networking event designed to empower you with information you will not receive elsewhere. You will gain the very best education and information in a fun, interactive environment that will make learning pleasurable and effective. Join us for a day you will never forget!

EXTENSIVE EDUCATION CONFERENCE This is a must-attend event for all who wish to stay abreast of progress and gain the competitive advantage.

Leading Education in: ! Marketing and Business Strategies ! Staff Development ! New Advanced Techniques ! Technological Developments ! New Study Programs ! Industry Intelligence ! Demonstrations ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Ph: 07 5593 0360 For a full speakers program and to register online visit www.apanetwork.com Register to receive our newsletter with up-to-date information online or by emailing: info@apanetowork.com

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Education - Networking - News - New Releases - Prizes and Rewards - Fun

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The state of AUSTRALIA'S AESTHETICS and the Value of the HUMAN

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While many industries are trying to reinvent themselves to survive during financially challenging times, many ask us what is happening to the aesthetics and beauty industry across the board and how do we compare as a business sector with other industries in Australia?

At the recent New Horizons Conference and Expo hosted by APAN in Canberra some of these changes were presented to the industry. The Conference presented international trends through information on the growing new sector of "Beauty from within" and the impact this will have in redefining aesthetics in the foreseeable future.

Statistically, we do not represent a major part of small to medium businesses. The current figures, however, suggest that there are over 10,800 registered businesses in Australia that are dedicated to spa and beauty therapy. This sector alone provides employment to over 165,000 individuals who are employed as either full-time, part-time on a casual basis or operate as independent contractors.

You may think that these figures appear modest compared to other industries, but the professional beauty industry is estimated to be responsible for in excess of $300 million in consumer spending in Australia.

One such area was addressed by Dr Dzung Price who has developed two new programs for the aesthetics industry, Wellness Express and Beyond Slim. To further confirm these trends at the A5M Anti-Ageing Conference in Melbourne this year, while I was speaking to some of the world's medical authorities their advice to me was emphatic – “The best way for the aesthetics industry to introduce wellness is to introduce effective weight loss.” In regular discussions with Dr Price this need was identified, which led to the development of the above programs. (see article on pages 108).

But is all this changing? Possibly I cannot stress strongly enough that it really is up to you to determine whether you stay or whether you go. How well we survive will depend on whether we are prepared to take a serious look at the changing tide of consumer spending and the necessity to review our own “facelift” as an industry. There are times that I feel like I am coming across a little harsh, because as an industry there is still a great deal of complacency in taking the “business of beauty” seriously and that concerns me. I do get to view a great deal of information on a global scale and cannot ignore the warning signs. I therefore feel it is my responsibility to warn you when necessary, and this because I care about the welfare and reputation of this industry. From our records businesses are still closing down this year at a higher rate than last year. Our records can confirm that at least 750 businesses have closed down since the beginning of the year.

These figures suggest that we should not take our survival for granted, but review and evaluate what is necessary to ensure that we do not become the next statistic. On a positive note we are seeing growth and improvement, particularly with businesses that are redefining their identity and image, and updating their services and approach to business. And the new government figures that are starting to emerge are also encouraging.

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Economically, we are not out of the woods yet. In fact global predictions are that we still have another 12 months of financial squeeze, but the forecast is that by mid 2013 the economy will start to improve as banks will regain funding from maturing loans. At this point the most recent government and industry surveys are indicating a consistent, but slow growth in spa and beauty therapy salons. We may not be growing in numbers, but many quality salons are experiencing 15-20% growth in their financial figures from last year. The key strategy of survivors is the recognition that the consumer perception of beauty services is no longer seen as a luxury service, but increasingly as a means of increasing health and wellbeing as well as appearance. This has necessitated for business to re-examine their services and introduce more advanced procedures. To do this they have either had to upgrade their own qualifications or network collaboratively with other healthcare professionals.

Another report from the Federal Department of Employment, Workplace Relations and Small Business indicated that the outlook for beauty therapy businesses is for steady and continued growth. It identified the reasons were the result of increased professionalism and its wider marketing awareness and acceptability of its services.

The industry's enhanced pubic image has also been assisted by the emergence of the more sophisticated technologies and anti-ageing treatments that are available through spas and medi-spas, as well as salons and clinics that are offering quality anti-ageing and wellness services. However, the key, whether we like it or not, is wellness – this is what consumers are now wanting. This together with the progressive ageing of the population is expected to lead to a continued increase in demand for these services.

THE VALUE OF MENTORS AND COACHES As much as I would like to address the issue of industry reform through higher education I will leave this topic for another article, as it is an article in itself. What I would like to discuss here is the role of external influences through mentoring and coaching services that affect our growth and progress on both a personal and professional level.

One of the key factors that contribute to business success is the willingness to remain open to new ideas and options and to recognise the significant value and importance of influence and support from others, such as mentors and coaches.

It was only 12 years ago when business coaches were first introduced as a “service” to the professional beauty industry. Initially they were scoffed at, with salon owners saying that “How can anyone else tell me how to run my business? What do they know about beauty?” ㄰

Within three to four year this situation turned around as testimonials started to emerge that confirmed how salons were able to transform their businesses with the aid and assistance of experienced business coaches such as Caroline Nelson, Gita McKennan and Faye Murray. The concept of working with someone who can offer you tools, support and direction is now recognised as one of the most important elements to a business's survival. In fact, very few salons that have seriously invested in external mentoring or coaching have failed. Why is this so?

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THE ROLE OF MENTORS

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Looking back at my own career and professional life I have had several mentors along the way. Most of them were men, while some of them were women. These individuals played a critical role to my success. My mentors helped shape my personal philosophy and to formulate my desire to involve myself not just in a job, but in making a difference in other people's lives. My first mentor was a senior manager in the Australian Post Office. For some reason he took a personal interest in the growth and development of younger people, and I happened to be one of the fortunate ones.

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He taught me how to "think big" and see the whole picture. This gave me a good foundation on how to position my thoughts based on values and viewpoints that will help me make wise decisions.

Mentor relationships are about helping you gain clarity in your life

through the wisdom of experience and knowledge of influential people.

These individuals can help you get your career or business in focus.

They can offer excellent advice in helping you work through the maze of options and give you a nudge to make the changes needed. From a mentor you will learn to take advantage of unexpected opportunities that come along and that may not be in your business plan. They are someone with whom you can do a "reality check" to determine whether an idea is a good one or whether there were elements you were not aware of in helping you make the right choice. Good judgement comes from experience and good experience often comes from bad judgement. You can reach success more securely if you gain from the wisdom and experience of others and avoid many pitfalls.

In the final analysis, mentoring in general, and specifically as it involves women, does not easily lend itself to a definition of its components. It's a little like trying to define what constitutes a good friend or what a friend

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"does". The relationship is formal and sometimes personal, yet constructive and of great use.

Perhaps the most valuable thing a mentor does is to help you grasp the difference between what's really important and what only seems so.

The word for this would be perspective.

4. Don't compete with others: Rather than measure yourself against others, a mentor would advise you to compete against your own best self. That way you can measure your own growth and progress and protect yourself against the danger of jealousy.

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BUSINESS COACHING

As most in the beauty industry are women, women by nature are nurturers and value not only how they think about things, but also how they feel about them. Whatever decisions or strategies they engage in they need to know that both their head and their heart are working harmoniously together. You can give them protocols and procedures to perform, but if they don't believe in them, or if they cannot understand their purpose, they will not perform them well. I believe that women have the same potential and capacity for greatness and success as men. However, women are more complex than men are. They can be easily sidetracked and this has more to do with a lack of alignment between the tasks they have to perform and the conviction of their heart than ineptness in ability.

Ignite a woman's heart and purpose with passion and align it with factual knowledge and information and she is unstoppable.

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So how does business coaching differ from mentoring? Business coaches are very much about strategy and organisation.

They teach you the "how", while a mentor will help you understand the "why".

A business coach will help you put into place an action plan and help you develop certain skills and strategies that can help your business turn around.

They usually have a task to perform – conduct a business needs analysis and then develop a plan to help you reach specific goals.

While some of the areas of coaching and mentoring may cross over, they in fact require very different skill sets. Here is how they can compare:

Mentoring is about inspiration and fuelling your desire to take something on and complete it.

Coaching is about application – understanding what needs to happen and finding the way to do it.

HERE ARE FOUR KEY AREAS TO CONSIDER: 1. Obey your intuition: Cool, calculating, rational thought is characteristic of men in business, but women add an important new dimension – a well-honed facility called intuition. Women pick up details that are often overlooked by men. Intuition is an important asset in wise decision-making – use it.

2. Dress and present yourself appropriately: While God loves you as you are people judge you on how you present. Take a reality check and review your own appearance, ensuring that your nonverbal communication is in line and consistent with what you are communicating to your clients and staff.

3. Use lessons learnt to develop a protégé: Because of a

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woman's capacity to nurture, she is well suited to develop leaders through mentoring. Since mentoring is the involvement of one person in the welfare of another so that the potentialities of others are developed to their optimum capacity, the special and creative care of a woman can hasten the process. Trainers and nurturers need to also expose themselves to be mentored by others. This will ensure that they are also on the receiving end so that they don't get burnt out. Furthermore, one of the best ways to reinforce a new element of truth of something new you have learnt, or you have benefited from, is to use it or communicate it to others. By building others in the same way that you have been built up you are creating a dynamic team at work and forging strong and meaningful relationships with all those you come in contact with.

Mentoring is about defining who you are.

Coaching is about defining what you do.

Mentoring helps to bring clarity to where you need to go.

Coaching gives you the roadmap on how to get there.

So why do you need both? Having a mentor will help you gain momentum and resilience – stickability if you wish. It will help give you the fuel you need for the mileage you need to travel to get to where you want to be. Without these attributes business coaching alone will not work for you. While mentoring helps you gain clarify and focus, without the right strategies that coaching will give you, you will not achieve your goals.

There is a wonderful proverb in the Bible that says it really well, “As iron sharpens iron, so one man sharpens the wit of another”.

Proverbs 27:17 Perhaps what we need the most to survive in any financial climate is the support of others. Individuals who can help us identify missed opportunities and reinforce in us the purpose and value of drawing from the strength of experts that are available to us within our own professional community.

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As part of membership APAN offers consulting as well as mentoring services. We also work collaboratively with some of the industry's top business coaches and can refer appropriate ones to you to assist you further.. If you believe we can help you please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com or visit www.apanetwork.com to view our services and download an application form.

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I am COMMITTED to EXCELLENCE in serving my clients APAN is COMMITTED to EXCELLENCE in meeting my needs That’s why I’m a CORPORATE PLATINUM MEMBER of APAN For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com Go to www.apanetwork.com and download a Membership Application Form.

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conferencereport AGE MANAGEMENT Prevention, Integration and Balance – An overview by Terry Everitt

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A5M World Chariman Dr Robert Goldman Age Management: Prevention, Integration and Balance was the theme of the recently held 2011 AustralAsian Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine (A5M) Conference in Melbourne, August 20-21.

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A5M conferences are not all about medicine – a plethora of information in nutrition, dietetics, supplementation, aesthetic medicine and minor surgical procedures along with allied therapies; all of which the skincare professional can utilise the knowledge to increase their client care and effectiveness.

Anti-Ageing medicine is a clinical/medical specialty founded on advanced evidence-based practices for the early detection, prevention, treatment and reversal of age-related dysfunction, disorders and diseases. This provides a focus on preventative approaches allowing a move from a sickness model to a wellness model, which is in many ways the opposite to the norm of Western medical practice.

This year's A5M conference ran plenary sessions until the morning break on the first day, then concurrent sessions, (broadly defined as internal and aesthetic streams) in separate rooms, which at times makes it difficult to decide which session to attend as all are well worth attending.

While the conference aimed for the anti-ageing medical specialists, it also attracted a number of allied health professionals and practitioners, including a growing number from the aesthetic skincare community.

The 2011 conference had 42 separate sessions, so a wealth of information was available in areas of clinical care, business building, testing, analysis and assessment methodologies; each having a host of individual sessions providing guidance for implementation.

In fact, as part of the conference, there was a concurrent all-day program – the Australasian Integrative & Aesthetics Workshop, specifically for the professional aesthetic therapist, which Tina Viney (who chaired this segment) writes further about in this article.

IMPORTANT KEYS TO A SUCCESSFUL PRACTICE

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Dr Mark Rosenberg

It is encouraging to see more skincare professionals going to medical conferences. While some information is a bit heavy going, much has immediate relevance to those in the 'anti-ageing' skincare, practice with practical information for increased knowledge and skill to base innovative treatment protocols for your client base.

Dr Andre Berger, the Director of Rejuvalife Vitality Institute, Beverly Hills in Los Angeles, presented sessions on Setting up a complete antiageing practice and Clinical aesthetic application of anti-ageing medicine (along with presenting on facial sculpturing and creating the perfect lip with Juvederm®), which had a lot of relevance for the skincare professional. It is not only about how people look, but also about how they feel for optimal outcomes.

As you know, the skin is a reflection on the health of the body –

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physical and psychological. While treating the skin will benefit the skin, it will not help the body, so thinking differently will achieve greater potential. Knowing the underlying causes and use of treatment – frequently nutritional or hormonal precursors – will increase the effectiveness of any external care provided.

In an interview I had with Dr Berger, I canvassed a number of subjects and asked him if there is one thing in particular that guides success in the aesthetic field. His answer was to know your strengths and build on them, as this is where you are going to excel. Someone else can service your areas of weakness that is better skilled in those areas. You must create an emotional connection with each client and this communication must be via each staff member, each and every time the client is with you. He believes that less is more and using less of each particular therapy yet using each in a complementary way for total effect can create better treatment outcomes.

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Dr Andre Berger & Dr Michael Zacharia

Dr Berger further stressed that anti-ageing is just terminology – it is what you mean by it and what is behind the terminology that will define who and what you are for your clients – think more mind and body wellness in a holistic sense to achieve true anti-ageing care.

Obviously, the client has choice in where they go – you must create an environment of hospitality combined with effective clinical care, backed by evidenced-based results for the continued and loyal relationship.

NEW INFORMATION ON EXTENDING THE LIFE OF TELOMERES We are constantly learning more of how the body ages, primarily via how cells age, and one of the most important aspects of this is the role of telomeres and the enzyme telomerase. This has been an interest of mine ever since meeting Leonard Hayflick and learning of his cellular limitation notion, which is explained by the knowledge of telomeres. An interesting session was Telemerase activation: The key to unlocking the ageing puzzle presented by Dr Weiman Liu, a pioneer in telomere biology, who presented the latest research and development of this area of biology in understanding how the ticking clock of the cell is rapidly counting down cellular life expectancy.

In speaking with Dr Liu, I found some interesting developments that require further research. These will be the subject of a further article, particularly the difference in epidermal and dermal cell line rates of telomere differentiation and new information regarding TA-65 – the telomerase activator in tablet form now available in Australia and the topical version currently in development. In the meantime, do read the introductory article on telomeres by Dr Dzung Price (who also was at the A5M conference) in the last edition (volume 10, pages 72-74) of APJ.

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Brooke Francisco New-Berry & Dr Alia Nasser

Daryyl Knowles, GM Helen Anton & Professor Greg Goodman

Dr Robin Willcourt from Adelaide eloquently summed up this technical biological subject in our conversation with eloquent simplicity, “long telomeres are good, short telomeres are bad”.

We can't replace missing telomerase with telomerase, yet we can provide precursors, which can activate telomerase.

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NUTRITION AND EFFECTIVE BIOAVAILABILITY ㈵

Nutrition being essential for life was explored by a number of speakers as a vital component, not an adjunct in supporting continued health and longevity – from fats, protein and carbohydrates to the individual enzymes and amino acids. Having them is important, yet getting them to the body in bioavailable

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Jordi Pestana, Melissa Meeve & Belinda Stone

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form is another matter at times. Are pills, injections or real food the way to go? Might not be what you think as it depends on so many individual factors, not to mention the differences in topical versus systemic nutrition absorption. You probably think cholesterol and free radicals are bad and all antioxidants are good? Not so, and if you had attended the conference you would have found out scientific evidence-based facts to better inform what you are doing and providing for client care.

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Personally, I have a concern with the 'anti-ageing' nomenclature due to its negative connotations and much prefer the World Health Organisation's definition of Healthy Ageing as it is described as “The process of optimising opportunities for health and participation in order to enhance quality of life as people age”.

Tina Viney CEO APAN We are ageing and while we cannot stop this process (at this time), we can do much to improve how we age and live healthily at any age. Old age is a state of mind and it need not be a state of body, unless we wish it and allow it to be.

THE NEW APPROACH TO SKIN THERAPY While skincare professionals cannot stop the ageing of their clients, they can do much to annul the outward appearance of age by going well beyond mere skincare. The convergence of technology, ingredients and education allows a greater field of expertise and effectiveness in helping our clients to have an active ageing process.

While many of the elements of this service will remain within the traditional realm of medicine, aestheticians and beauty therapists can look forward to new and extensive education knowledge that will take them beyond beauty. This new realm will introduce the professional aesthetic practitioners to an amazing armamentarium that will become available to them.

An increased understanding of what is happening not only within the skin, but also within the body, will provide a holistic approach to care and treatment outcomes that will be more effective, as nothing happens to the body in isolation. Being able to 'connect the dots' will enable the implementation of effective treatment protocols, rather than simply trying to treat the surface presentations. This allows a major change in parameters in treating the cause, not just the signs and symptoms.

While it is true that you may at times need to refer your client to a medical specialist to actually treat the underlying cause, at least you will know what you are looking at and possible causative factors.

These could be, as an example, hormonal and more specific endocrine concerns, which need to be adjusted to help your treatments be successful, while helping your client also improve their total health.

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Of all the medical conferences that are around, the AustralAsian AntiAgeing and Aesthetic Medicine (A5M) Conference is one that is the most aligned with much of what the skincare professional does. A greater understanding of what is going on within the body helps with the interpretation of the presenting skin symptoms of the client while providing information and emphasis for new directions and therapeutic intervention of effective client care.

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Do consider attending the 2012 A5M conference I know I am going, my fifth along with other leaders of the aesthetic skincare community.

This journal will have information about the next conference, which I do endorse and its worth the registration expense. While it costs to go, the cost of not going is far greater.

Australasian Integrative & Aesthetics Workshop – New scientific information for improved skin therapy & aesthetic care

by Tina Viney Eight national and international experts presented a smorgasbord of amazing information and new research findings to aestheticians, dermal therapists and aesthetic nurses who attended this event.

The topics presented I have divided into four key categories: ! Nutrition and its impact on skin and health ! Ingredients and treatment programs to improve the skin ! Technology and advanced skin- treatment solutions ! Genetic testing

NUTRITION AND ITS IMPACT ON SKIN AND HEALTH This topic was extensively covered by Ann-Mary Hromke from Australia who discussed “Eating your way to Youth”, expounding on various food groups – macronutrients and micronutrients – what they are and how much do we need. She also covered specific components of anti-ageing diets and how to create an effective diet plan with superfoods that offer anti-inflammatory properties with a focus on increasing alkalinity, which was identified as a critical factor to health and vibrant skin.

Dr Pamela Smith from the US supported many of Ms Hromke's theories and presented some compelling information. Dr Smith identified various skin abnormalities and explained what deficiencies they pointed to. For example, enlarged pores in older women may indicate oestrogenic deficiency. She further clarified that ageing invariably involves a constant state of internal inflammation and the role this plays to skin ageing. As cells age they have less protection against oxidation and the fatty membranes of the cells become more permeable within the skin, leading to moisture loss and dehydration.

Dr Smith then addressed key nutrients to support specific skincare concerns. Chief among them were: ! Coenzyme Q10 ! Alpha Lipoic Acid ! DMAE ! Vitamin E

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Green tea Red tea extract Hyaluronic acid Retinol Pomegranate extract Choline – stabilised orthosilicic acid

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Perhaps the most comprehensive, enlightening and compelling information was the evidence she presented on the various hormones and the essential role they play to the health of the skin, as well as to the overall health of the individual and in disease prevention. This information gave therapists a greater understanding on factors that compromise skin health, vitality and skin tone, and how correcting these deficiencies can significantly improve the appearance of the skin and support the treatment outcomes they hope to achieve.

Coming from a slightly different perspective Dr Frances Pitsillis addressed “Nutrition and Skin Ageing”. She identified various classifications of sun damage and presented a profile of systemic photo-protection from a dietary perspective. Dr Pitsillis identified the benefit and value of the Mediterranean diet and presented studies that confirmed the benefits of olive oil, high consumption of vegetables, especially cruciferous, leafy greens and fruits (especially citrus) in supporting the skin against melanoma.

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Ann-Mary Hromek & April Jorgensen

INGREDIENTS AND TREATMENT PROGRAMS TO IMPROVE THE SKIN Daryll Knowles presented the most up-to-date information on peptides and identified new research results on specific peptides and the role they play in offering solutions to various skin concerns. Among them were pigmentation, lack of skin tone and wrinkles, skin whitening, as well as cellulite and skin tanning. He also discussed the emerging new sector of individualising skincare formulations in meeting the exacting skincare needs of specific concerns through compounding pharmacy formulations. For the benefit of our readers Daryll Knowles has submitted an article on this subject in this issue of APJ pages 18-19.

Gay Wardle, Tina Viney & Dr Dzung Price

Gay Wardle challenged her audience with the subject “Looking deeper into Dermal Analysis Skills and Skin-Treatment Programs to build business profits”.

Gay identified the value of understanding the underlying causes of skin concern and how these allimportant issues are critical to gaining the best possible results with your treatments each and every time. She also stressed that this is the key to client satisfaction and sustainable business growth.

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TECHNOLOGY AND ADVANCED SKINTREATMENT SOLUTIONS The role and value of technology in improving skin conditions and achieving advanced treatment outcomes was presented by Tina Czech and April Jorgensen.

Tina cautioned her audience against over-treating the skin with longterm use of thermal injury and challenged her audience with the question "are we accumulating scar tissue in collagen or are we stimulating collagen?" She spoke of the value of low-intensity laser light energy (yellow light), instead of broadband that delivers power

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Daryll Knowles & Dr Michael Zacharia and heat through laser light to create injury. She warned against overtreated skin that will make it look like waxed skin and the importance of vellus hair on the face having a softening effect. Tina also identified excellent results that can be achieved with single wavelength 578nm Yellow Pulsed Light in treating telangiectasia,

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APJ 45

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Dan Clifford & Metro-Dora Clifford pigmented lesions, port wine stains, poikiloderma, seborrhoeic keratoses and lentigines as well as excellent results for photorejuvenation.

April Jorgensen spoke on effective treatment methods for treating Epidermal and Dermal Melasma with prescription ingredients Retinoic acid/ Tretinoin and 2-10% Hydroquinone. Effective overthe-counter ingredients were identified as Kojic acid, Arbutin, Niachinamide, Azelaic Acid, Botanicals (bearberry extract and liquorice derivatives were also mentioned). The value of combining the ingredients with epidermal resurfacing treatments such as Microdermabrasion, very superficial peeling and skin needling was also presented. April further identified the role of light-based therapies such as IPL, Laser (Q-switched 532 nm or 1064nm and fractionated laser resurfacing using erbium or carbon dioxide laser mediums. She also stressed the importance of not creating too much heat in order not to cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. ㄰ 㤵

GENETIC TESTING This amazing topic was presented by Professor Paul Taylor, who discussed "Optimising the Epigenome".

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In the past five years, science has been rapidly uncovering a hidden world that changes the way of connecting past and future generations in ways that we never imagined possible. The science of inheritance is being turned on its head by the emergence of the field of Epigenetics.

Paul discussed how we can no longer generalise what works for people by just placing individuals in groups as science is uncovering

John Hando, Christine Houghton, Paul Beaver & Chee Khai Chan genetic blueprints that point to how we will respond to specific dietary methods, exercise, even our inherited tendencies to disease, with specific accuracy. New tests can examine up to 40 genes that can offer answers as to what will work and not work for us. This is an exciting era when these new tests will allow us to take greater control of our genetic destiny and be able to take more decisive action against inherited weaknesses through specific information that will evidence our needs with greater clarity.

IN SUMMARY Those who attended this amazing event left with a greater understanding and appreciation of the important role that neuroscience, nutrition, technology and anti-ageing medicine will play in offering answers for the purpose of achieving advanced aesthetic outcomes. Whether we like it or not, new evidence overwhelmingly points to the importance of understanding how the body works as the key to gaining the kind of results consumers will come to expect from us.

Those who did invest in this knowledge will no doubt be the new market leaders and will continue to grow in reputation and ultimately profitability. It is my firm belief and experience that investing in your education should never be viewed as an expense, but as a valuable investment in your future – a future that most likely will be more exciting and profitable than the present. My only regret was that more aestheticians did not take advantage of this incredible information. It was world-class, thoroughly inspirational and thought-provoking. I trust that more readers will plan to attend this amazing event in 2012.

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APJ 46

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Advance your knowledge and education to a higher level. MDA is now offering Post-Graduate courses to empower you for greater treatment results and business growth.

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With the advances in new equipment and skincare technology, heightened awareness by consumers and the collaboration between professional aesthetics and medical and anti-ageing practices there is now the need for education and specialised Post-Graduate training to support and deliver higher levels of expertise and advanced results.

Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS PROGRAM in 2011 to equip and empower you to make the transition with greater confidence into the realm of advanced treatment protocols for greater treatment outcomes.

Gay Wardle is without question today's leading and most influential educator in Australia. Winner of over 12 industry and business awards, she has a strong understanding of the aesthetics industry and the elements that are necessary for a successful salon or aesthetic practice.

Constantly investing in her own education and knowledge, she is not only passionate about training but simultaneously is undertaking a Bachelor's qualification with Victoria University.

MASTERCLASSES IN DERMAL TRAINING INCLUDE: ! One-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Two-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Three-day Journey to Understand and Empower your ! ! !

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Knowledge in Advanced Skin Evaluation Skin Preparation Programs to Optimise Results from IPL, Needling and Microdermabrasion Treatments to Target Pigmentation Understanding Ageing in the Skin and Treatments for Ageing Skin

ENROL TODAY Training Available in most States. For further details and to book Visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au email:gay-da.com.au or info@masterdermalacademy.com.au Ph: 0418 708 455 formerly Advanced Aesthetics

Masters Dermal Academy

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BUSINESS IN BRIEF

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A snapshot of news and information for business owners

There's hope on the horizon – it's not all bad news!

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The latest reports from the Bureau of Statistics (October, 2011) indicated that retail sales advanced more than economists forecast in August for a second straight month, showing shoppers are resilient, despite growing global economic worries.

Sales rose 0.6 per cent from a month earlier, when they increased a revised 0.6 per cent, the Bureau of Statistics said in Sydney.

Economists had tipped a 0.2 per cent gain.

Moody's Economy.com analyst Katrina Ell said interest rate expectations probably had a part to play on consumer behaviour. ''Prior to August consumers were expecting rate hikes, but with the eruption of global volatility in August that was taken off the table,'' said Ms Ell. ''That likely encouraged consumers to spend.''

Reserve Bank governor Glenn Stevens yesterday held the benchmark interest rate at 4.75 per cent for an 11th month to gauge the fallout from Europe's debt crisis. Household goods sales jumped 1.7 per cent, while cafes, restaurants and takeaway food services increased 0.2 per cent.

The Australian economy, which has avoided a recession for two decades, is continuing to get a lift from mineral extraction. Recent indicators ''show consumer spending rising at a healthy clip,'' Adam Carr, a senior economist in Sydney at ICAP Australia, said before the report. ''Today's data is belatedly reflecting that fact.'’

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The household savings rate held above 10 per cent in the three months through June, when the economy expanded 1.2 per cent, the fastest pace in four years, spurred by household spending and a recovery from natural disasters in the north-east.

Meanwhile sales figures in the beauty industry are also reported to be experiencing a slight rise. The shift in innovative marketing and tightening of financial management has contributed to a rise in optimism in the spa and beauty sector, and the forecast is for continued sustainable slow growth for all who have taken on appropriate measures through improved marketing strategies and good management.

Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/business/shoppers-open-wallets-retail-sales-rise-20111005-1l82h.html#ixzz1Zs2yiqbo

How to achieve success even during tough times Focusing on the negative can position you to expect and attract failure in your business. However, with the right attitude and the righte strategies you can still achieve growth and success. So what does it take to survive and thrive in a tough environment?

Here are five proven strategies that are seeing several current businesses achieve growth:

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1. Never stop marketing One of the first areas that business owners cut back on is marketing.

They eschew the glossy brochures and pull back on advertising.

They consider marketing a luxury when it is actually an essential investment. However, you need to continue marketing during downtimes to keep customers in your funnel. It's also an ideal time for you to stand out from the competition, especially if they are cutting back on marketing. Be smart, however, and look at cost-effective ways of getting your message out – on-line campaign, social media, good old-fashioned referrals and social events still work well.

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2. Effective tax planning This is where a good accountant comes in. Talk to you tax professional and ask them to educate you on effective strategies to

help you achieve effective tax breaks. This can save you thousands of dollars in tax.

3. Try not to read about the doom and gloom This might sound like a "head in the sand approach", but most successful people these days avoid reading about the doom and gloom too much. It drains them of momentum and positive energy to move forward. When someone asks you about the GFC your best response should be “Yes, I've heard about the global financial crisis, but I've decided not to take part in it”.

4. Operate in a spirit of austerity This point might seem at odds with the previous one, but it's not. It's about making smart decisions in all areas of your business. Cut back on unnecessary spending. Check for hidden costs. Go for better phone plans and cheaper rates for Efpos and credit card merchant banking. Talk to APAN, they can introduce you to the best rates in Australia that can save you thousands of dollars a year.

5. Be careful about who you associate with Are you surrounding yourself with doomsayers and people who constantly complain about the economy, the government or anyone else they can blame for their woes? Negativity has a way of catching up with you. Seek to associate with positive people that offer you solutions.

APAN's mentoring services have rescued many businesses from bankruptcy. Speaking to an expert who can offer you objective, positive professional advance can help you identify lost or unexplored opportunities to get you back on track.

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APJ 48

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Young women now most common online shoppers A number of prominent Australian online retailers have seen a shift in key demographics of online shoppers, with women aged between 25-35 with incomes above $70,000 now considered the most

typical online consumer. And according to a new research note from Macquarie, retailers are also considering launching online direct factory outlets to promote fashion brands. The note also says the main cause for dissatisfaction among retailer shoppers is lack of variety in shipping options, emphasising that next-day delivery options or the ability to pick up items in store are now “must haves” for consumers.

The note comes as some of the world's largest retailers and Internet companies, including Wal-Mart and Google, gathered in Sydney during the past few days to speak at the annual Online Retail Conference. While beauty therapists do not favour on-line shopping for skincare, some are quite happy to promote their grooming items, such as makeup, spa unique for the consumer.

Also, businesses that consistently offer exemplary service often find it easier to engender loyalty.”

ACHIEVING CLIENT LOYALTY Gathering a loyal following, the emergence of group buying sites and the emphasis on a cheap deal is making it increasingly difficult for businesses to engender loyalty.

But there are tools to help you keep customers coming back.

Retail insights specialist Dr Stephen Saunders, of The Shoppologist, says loyalty is the holy grail for businesses. "Loyalty is something that everyone in business is constantly trying to achieve, but it's a lot harder to encourage your customers to show loyalty these days."

SO WHAT IS LOYALTY?

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Loyalty can mean something different to each business, so the first step is to understand what it means to you and how it applies to your business. Loyalty could be defined as your clients spending more money with your business, or it could mean wanting them to spend more frequently. It could also mean you want your clients to refer others to your business. Saunders says that with the increase in brand choice clients are far less inclined to put up with anything that isn't authentic. "You've got to make sure that you treat your clients as people and not as numbers in a database. It's all about having relevant conversations and relevant offers for your consumers."

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Retail expert Brian Walker of The Retail Doctor says trust plays a big part in whether a consumer will be loyal to a business. "To trust a business, a consumer needs to know that it will do what it says it's going to do and that there is consistency in the offering," Walker says. "We also find that loyalty is rewarded when the experience is truly

And businesses that take the trouble to get to know their clients and undertake micromarketing have far more success, he says.

Businesses looking for ways to win the loyalty of consumers should first ascertain what aspects of their business works well, and what doesn't. Loyalty can be a difficult thing to measure. You need to think about your product and try and understand how it offers a solution to your consumers. If it's a service, for example, what are people trying to get out of your offering?.

Randomly selecting customers and questioning them on their thoughts of your business could be a good start. He also suggests organising a mystery shopper or an exit survey.

"True customer research just isn't in the budget for many businesses, but it should be," he says.

Next, conduct some of your own research by looking at how businesses within your sector approach the issue of loyalty, says Walker.

Based on the pitfalls in your offering and your own research, start formulating your plan. Be specific when putting pen to paper during the planning stage. You need to make sure you're precise about what you want to achieve. "And businesses should always be looking to improve their offering and should never presume that your customers are happy."

LOYALTY PROGRAMS Traditional loyalty programs are an obvious place to start for businesses looking to improve customer loyalty. There are around 200,000 loyalty programs operating in Australia, which makes it extremely difficult to stand out from

merchandising and body products, as well as gift vouchers.

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According to APAN it is not an issue of bending the rules, but rather taking advantage of market trends to increase sales and gain new clients.

Other areas that are popular include grooming services that are effectively promoted on websites or social media, and eye-brow grooming services with before and after photos, cosmetic tattoo and lash extensions with special offers attached to them. If you wish to develop your social media networks and update your information contact APAN on phone 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com for recommended experts who can assist you to improve your online presence.

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the crowd. However, businesses need to keep in mind that once they have committed to a loyalty campaign, it is difficult to remove it from your business strategy. "You've got to make sure that you stick with whatever you decide to implement in your business. You need to be in it for the long haul," Walker says.

A lot of businesses fall into the trap of creating complex offers or tiered discounts, which people are unlikely to bother taking the time to understand, so keep it simple.

Here are a few key areas to help you build client loyalty: Trust: Customers that feel they can trust your word and expertise are more likely to show their loyalty.

Value-adding: Value-adding to your services has been shown to work. Offer rewards to those who have been loyal to you. Don't take them for granted.

Customer service: Businesses that offer outstanding service are rewarded with a loyal following. A follow-up call to make sure clients were happy with your services will encourage your clients to come back and not consider the competition.

Consistency: There's nothing worse that inconsistent service or quality. Businesses that remain consistent in their services are more likely to have repeat clientele.

Get to know your clients: Clients like to be made to feel special, which could be as simple as using their name when they come into your business or remembering their birthday.

Experience: A good in-salon or online buying encounter is important. Make sure the actual experience of interacting with your business is a pleasant one.

Unique: Your business probably has plenty of competition. But if you make sure that the experience your customers have is unique in some way, research shows that they will reward you with their loyalty.

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APJ 49

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ACCC flags random audits of franchises, warns sector has “image problem”

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The pain of job interviews: An employee's perspective

As we approach the end of the year many students will graduate and will be seeking employment. This can be a very nervous time as you venture into the world of business. Here are some things to keep in mind that will make it more bearable when it comes to job hunting.

TREAT EVERY APPLICATION LIKE YOUR FIRST: So your first application was rejected, but don't lose hope. Each time you apply for a job treat it like a new start, a fresh beginning and new opportunities in a great source of excitement.

The letter that accompanies your succinct and powerful CV must be tailored to the job criteria you are looking for. Make sure it is fresh and original. Address the advertised position, show enthusiasm, be unique and keep it short.

THE INTERVIEW: So you have been asked to attend an interview. That is a positive thing. This could mean that you have been selected over someone else, or for that matter, many others. This is exciting and the aim is to do well no matter what. Research a little about the focus of the salon or spa you are applying for a position. Learn what products they use and try and find out as much as possible about the brand. You may be overqualified, underqualified, out of work for years – it doesn't matter. Persistence pays off. What you need to keep in mind though is that you only need one application to succeed before you have achieved your goal. To this end, it doesn't matter if you receive one, 10, 50 or 100 rejections! They are all of little consequence, what you are looking for is that one right position.

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CREATE A WINNING MINDSET THAT SHOWS IN YOUR BODY LANGUAGE: Most judgements are made in the first few seconds. The way you look first, then your tone of voice. These can make or break you. Although most people don't consciously catalogue the elements of body language that are presented to them, they are still ultimately influenced by the overall impression that is provided. Remember that initially confidence is a technique – a wellgroomed appearance, freshly pressed, neat and appropriate business attire, makeup, hair and nails freshly and meticulously applied. Enter the room, shake hands with your interviewer, smile and look them in the eyes. Sit with your back straight, shoulders pulled back. Prepare to answer confidently if asked questions. Write down 10 situations in your past work that demonstrated your strengths in communication, dealing with pressure, leading others, resolving conflict, making mistakes and overcoming challenges, dealing with difficult people, motivating others, social networking, influencing, attention to detail, etc. Be prepared to confidently answer any question. Remember that just because you are going for a position does not necessarily mean that your potential employer will skilfully interview you. It is not uncommon for interviewers to go straight into the expectations of the position without actually quizzing you on who you are. If you are not asked any real questions that allow you to show your enthusiasm don't leave until you say a few words on your own initiative. These should include that you would be thrilled to join their employ and become part of a productive team. How you value teamwork and would be excited to help them reach their goals. Name their product range and if you have never used it tell them how you are looking forward to learning more about it.

Communicate as much as possible the following - a positive and cheerful attitude, a team spirit, a willingness to take initiatives where necessary, a willingness to help the business achieve its goals. APAN offers mentoring sessions for those seeking employment. They also assist salons through the interviewing process with relevant documentation they can purchase to guide them to identify the right candidate for their business.

APJ 50

The competition regulator has flagged a more aggressive approach to monitoring the franchising sector, including more random audits of franchisors and a more thorough look at earnings forecasts given to potential franchisees, as its chairman, Rod Sims, describes the $128billion sector as battling an "image problem". In a transcript of a speech delivered to the Franchise Council of Australia national convention, Australian Competition and Consumer Commission chairman drew attention to a potential imbalance between franchisors and franchisees, and urged franchisors to refer disputes to mediation as early as possible.

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Sims also flagged the regulator would be "doing more, and earlier, to achieve industry compliance" with both the Competition and Consumer Act and mandatory Franchising Code of Conduct. Sims said that while the franchising sector is an important part of our economy, it does have some image issues. Describing franchising as "a successful and healthy part of the business community" and a "popular business model", Sims nonetheless said there was room for improvement. "The ACCC's complaints data supports the proposition that there are problems in the sector," he said, noting the regulator had received more than 600 franchise-related complaints in the past financial year. These complaints related to allegations of misleading and deceptive conduct, concerns over disclosure, allegations of unconscionable conduct by franchisors, and allegations of the unlawful termination by the franchisor of the franchising agreement, Sims said. "As the chairman of the ACCC, it is difficult for me to ignore these statistics." Sims added that franchisors are often large and well-resourced, whereas franchisees might lack business experience or the means to conduct thorough due diligence before investing. "This can make franchisees vulnerable and this inherent imbalance in power is open to abuse," Sims said.

Sims said improving disclosure on potential franchisees' likely earnings would be an important step to improving the sector. "We can perhaps look more closely to see where franchisees have been misled, and pursue pecuniary penalties and other remedies.

Improvements in this area alone would greatly improve the reputation of franchising, and it's an area where we can be more effective," Sims told the conference ACCC deputy chairman Michael Schaper said he expects "truly random" audits to occur in the future, rather than audits based on market intelligence and complaints received. Schaper declined to give a breakdown on audits undertaken by the ACCC thus far, but said the regulator hoped to put out more information about its areas of focus.

In Australia there are around 1,000 franchisors and about 70,000 outlets Australia-wide – 600 complaints to the ACCC over the past financial year is a creditable amount.

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What your colleagues say…

NOT SOLD ON THE INTERNET. EXCLUSIVE TO BEAU TY PROFESSIONALS ONL Y.

Over the past 20 years of working and owning beauty salons, I have never encountered such dedication and passion from a skin care distributor.

OmniDerm excel in customer service, business support, belief in their product and a genuine interest in helping my business to be successful.

I am often overwhelmed and always grateful to be a part of this team.

OmniDerm are a breath of fresh air and a joy to deal with

Matrice Harbour Salon ownder, Kalgoorlie Beauty Room WA

I have been a Beauty therapist for nearly 10years… OmniDerm didn’t just help myself and my staff with Dr Spiller they have helped me change and grow my business in the direction it needed to go in. I have recently implemented targets and daily goals to the girls. Retail in the last 3months is up by $40,000 than last year. OmniDerm has really made me see as a owner how to direct staff and how easy it is to retail. Plus it helps when you have a great product to sell.

Hannah Taylor Vogue Beauty Clinic TAS

We provide: • Professional products for outstanding results - corrective and maintenance • Highly successful home care products lead to client loyalty • No internet sales - you get the full mark-up • Extensive training - you and your staff will be inspired to excel • Our consultants are qualified to give you high level support in all areas of your business

For more information visit www.omniderm.com.au or call 1300 301 007

www.dr-spiller.com.au

www.herbalpeel.com.au

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nt to the basic solid eyeliner procedure. Let me explain a little about the eyelids.

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THE ANATOMY OF THE EYELID

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The eyelids are two folds of skin that protect the eyeball from the environment, damage and light, they also maintain a smooth corneal surface by distributing tears evenly over the eye. The eyelids are made up of an exterior layer of skin, a middle layer of muscle, tissue that gives them form and an inner layer of moist conjunctiva tissue. The conjunctiva is a thin, clear layer of skin covering the front of the eye, including the sclera and the inside of the eyelids. The conjunctiva keeps germs and foreign material from getting behind the eye and causing damage.

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Several muscles work in conjunction to control the actions of the eyelids. The orbicularis oculi muscle closes the lids. It is a circular muscle located in the middle of the eyelid. The levator palpebrae superioris muscle is attached inside the upper lid and upon contraction elevates it. The orbicularis oculi and levator muscles must be controlled with an effective stretching technique during the eyeliner tattooing – process to avoid protective involuntary movements of the eyelids, which can be spontaneous or forceful, such as closing or squinting the eyes.

DESIGNER EYELINER The Eyes Have It – Part 3

By Val Glover-Hovan Cosmetic Tattoo Australia Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioners everywhere are always asking for something more to offer their eyeliner clients. The traditional straight dark line across and above the eyelashes serves its purpose for many clients, however, others wish to take the eyeliner procedure to the next level and stimulate the true cosmetic appearance of shadowed eyeliner, namely Designer Eyeliner.

Traditional tattoo artists commonly use the shading technique in body art, but in the Cosmetic Tattooing profession we are just beginning to utilise shading effects. The goal is to achieve the true appearance of powdered cosmetics in our healed Cosmetic Tattoo procedures by overlapping graduated colours. When applied to eyeliners, I refer to it as “Designer Liner”. Designer Liner is a shadowed smokey effect totally independe

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The superior tarsal muscle, also known as Muller's muscle, is smoother in texture and gives the eyelids tone and helps preserve the elasticity. Tiny oil-producing meibomian glands (or tarsal glands) line the tarsal plate (a medical term for the strong fibrous connective tissue supporting the lids). These glands produce oil that lubricates the eye. Some Cosmetic Tattooists feel tattooing the inner edge of the eyelids (commonly referred to as the wetline or mucosal) is not potentially harmful, while others consider it risky. The closer the tattooing process is in proximity to the eyeball, the higher the risk of corneal abrasions. Many also think it has the potential of creating dryeye syndrome, resulting from damage to the meibomian glands from the tattooing process.

The corners of the eyes represent the inner and outer canthus areas.

Tattooing too far into these areas is risky and can result in pigment migration, as the skin is very delicate and thin.

Rows of lashes on the top and bottom lids protect the eyes from the elements and debris. The eyelash line represents the template for eyelash enhancement and small to medium eyeliner procedures. Wider top eyeliners depart from this template and should be attempted only by practitioners trained in techniques that will ensure wider top eyeliner designs are consistent on Designer Eyeliner both eyes.

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WE HAVE SEVERAL DESIGNER EYELINER PIGMENT KITS AVAILABLE FROM COSMETIC TATTOO AUSTRALIA: Sumi Eyeliner Kit: BLACK SET – Sumi Light, Sumi Medium, Sumi Dark Liner Mate Series: BLUE SET – B1 Blue Black, B2, Dark Blue/Grey, B3 Blue/Grey, B4 Lt. Blue/Grey PURPLE SET – P1, Purple Black, P2 Dark Purple/Grey, P3 Dark Smokey Purple, P4 Light Smokey Purple GREEN SET – G1 Green Black, G2 Dark Grey/Green, G3 Khaki, G4 Light Grey/Khaki

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APJ 52

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The cornea, during eyeliner procedures, is protected with the proper placement of anesthetics (avoiding direct contact with the eyeball).

The application of moisturing/lubricating eye drops, rinsing the eye preferably with eyewash and allowing the client to blink often (people usually blink every six seconds) also prevent pigment from entering the eyes. If anesthetic gets into the eye the pupil may appear dilated (the pupil increases in size). This is most evident when an anesthetic with epinephrine is used, which is a vasoconstrictor. Within a few hours the pupil will return to normal with no effect on the client's vision. Practitioners should always use the utmost caution when working in the eye area as corneal damage can occur when this is not done.

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It is best to begin with a basic eyeliner that has healed. Once you have performed the shadowing procedure several times and you have achieved the proper rhythm of the procedure, you may elect to perform the eyeliner and the shadowing in one session. Be advised, however, that performing the eyeliner and shadowing in one procedure will usually produce excessive swelling and possibly some bruising, as the further you move up the eyelid the more delicate the skin.

Needles are very important tools to shadowing eyeliner. A tight configuration of needle clusters will bounce, as the skin is swelling at this time. You need a loose, flared, sharp and preferably long taper configuration to “bite” the skin in order to deposit and glide. The tighter the configuration, the more a solid mass of needle “hits” and “plugs” into the skin. Some prefer a looser needle resembling a brush, round or flat, to softly glide the colour, while moving, like an “airbrush” technique. I use loose small circles with a 3 round “spread” needle.

THREE METHODS USING PIGMENT COLOURS FOR SHADOWING EYELINER 1. Decreasing Pigment Concentration – This entails diluting pigment with pigment diluter, resulting in a light variation of colour

PROBLEM: Runny pigment 2. Reducing the depth of penetration and/or reducing penetration repetition PROBLEM: Inconsistent deposit, difficult to control 3. Graduation of pigment colour from dark to light. This is my favourite technique and we have colours especially manufactured to help make it easier for you. After the darkest colour is applied on the lash enhancement and eyeliner, I overlap with the next colour (medium) and place two complete lines/rows of colour. Next, switch to the lightest colour for the next two lines/rows of colour. When changing to the next colour, always overlap the previous colour slightly so that you get a true graduation of colour.

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When using the Designer Eyeliner Kits what you will see is the eyelids come up very pink, and what you won't see is much colour with the medium or light colour. The pink irritated skin overpowers the applications and it is only when it heals in four weeks that you can evaluate and see whether it needs a little more colour. It is always hard to get a good photograph of the Designer Eyeliner to show people.

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For further information contact Val Glover-Hovan Cosmetic Tattoo Australia (02) 9938 2111 info@cosmetictattooaustralia.com

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APJ 53

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Advocating a Professional Reputation

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By Katrina Gilligan ㈵

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Katrina Gilligan is considered as a woman of standards and an excellent educator. She runs 12 successful salons in Queensland, two training colleges and a distribution company.

She is also the owner of the Lish brand of nail products.

When it comes to grooming services nail enhancement is by for the fastestgrowing beauty sector. Katrina has a wealth of knowledge and we approached her to share with us her views on the role of nail services in the beauty and aesthetics industry.

Q1. Katrina, what training and services does the company offer with Lish products and what is its competitive advantage?

Lish is an Australian nail brand with a mission beyond product sales.

Our objective is to support the Australian nail industry by increased professionalism and create unity among nail technicians and pride in their skills. Through our on-line non-product specific competitions we foster on-going education and skills development with a bit of fun.

We are a centralised company run from Queensland, but have regional educators that we call Lishettes in each State. Their role is to provide advanced on-going education in their region. They are therefore predominantly regional trainers rather than sellers. They help solve problems, increase skill levels and professionalism. For example, they are constantly teaching nail technicians how to solve common problems such as lifting and credible time-saving techniques. They also help fine-tune skills development so that nail techs are more employable and can meet a similar professional standard of conduct that is expected throughout the beauty industry. Nail techs are in high demand, but they need to not only provide excellent services, they also need to present and conduct themselves in the same professional manner that a salon of high standards would expect of their staff members.

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It is important for salons and spas to understand that consumer demand for nail services is very much on the rise. It is definitely a serous business sector that they cannot afford to ignore. Additional nail services offer consistent and repeat business and excellent income-earning potential. Furthermore, nail services have one of the highest growth areas through referrals. As there are many mediocre technicians out there clients are always seeking for a highly reputable

nail technician they can go to. Happy clients always boast about their technician.

If you are not providing this service and your client needs it they will go elsewhere, more than likely to another salon. A skilled and astute nail tech will promote other services to their client that are available through their establishment. This means that your client may be enticed to trial services you provide elsewhere and this could lead to you losing them altogether.

Q3. With the coming festive season what new techniques will help boost sales?

While your clients may be happy to have their regular French finish during the festive season they may be open to a bit of a change, let their hair down and try perhaps a red with gold glitter for a party event.

This could mean an additional revenue increase. For example we have several salons and while we charge $65 for standard French our nail art brings in $95 and clients are quite happy to pay for it. Additionally, this could give your salon a point of difference (any salon can do French), however, nail art is very much a customised service that takes into account the client's tastes and needs e.g. a coordinated nail set to match an outfit, etc. Nail art is very much a personalised service and allows your clients to express themselves artistically, while offering your salon a competitive advantage. Additionally, you should also be providing them with lovely gift packs, gift vouchers, etc

Q4. If an anti-ageing salon has environmental concerns in introducing nail services what advice would you give them?

With advances in technology there are now many choices to accommodate every need. If you are concerned to avoid the smell of acrylics there are other options. You can introduce to your clients gel polish, which is one step up from a manicure and offers a more advanced nail element. This gives the nail greater durability and it will not chip, especially if someone is going for a brighter colour it will make their life a lot easier. With Lish you can chose from a hard gel, a soft gel or a gel polish to improve the overall effect of the nails without the need for acrylic.

It is also important to remember that a well-groomed hand always looks younger and women get addicted to their nails looking beautiful.

Furthermore, for an anti-ageing salon or clinic I would recommend that if you do contract or employ a nail technician you should insist that then maintain the same dress code as your other staff, the same hygiene standards, the same code of conduct and the same level of customer care. There should not be any differentiating points between your skincare therapists and nail technicians. They all should operate with the same standards so that there are no mixed messages to your clients. Each one should live up to the same standards of professionalism.

Australian Distributor of Lish Nail Creations Salon Pacfic Beauty Supplies 6/12 Leda Boulevard Morayfield QLD 4506 Phone: 1300 651 439 Email: info@salonpacific.com.au Website: www.salonpacific.com.au

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The value and benefit of knowing the Hyaluronic Acid Molecular Sizes and Weights

By Tess Walls

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I have been training therapists in one way or another for over 10 years and one of the most common skin complaints that seems to arise, no matter what products they are using, is how can I reduce blackheads and breakouts? So I thought I would shed some light on this subject and share with you some new perspectives and treatment protocols on how to achieve better results.

Let's go back to the skin's main function. The skin is the largest eliminating organ in the body and when it functions correctly it is designed to bring impurities from within the body to the surface for elimination.

It is natural to get the occasional breakout, but not to have a face full of blackheads. If the skin is functioning correctly impurities will rise to the surface and will then be eliminated through perspiration. This is what should happen and it does, if the skin is healthy and hydrated.

In many instances however, the skin is either stripped by the use of harsh cleansing and exfoliating products, or the client has overused skin-renewal products such as vitamin A, microdermabrasion and AHAs. Overuse of such products can lead to a breakdown of the skin's hydrolipidic protective film, stripping it of the intercellular matrix (the glue that holds the coenocytes together). This contributes to rapid internal evaporation of moisture and off the skin, leaving the cells shrivelled up like sultanas instead of plump and dewy grapes.

When the natural, balanced state of the skin is altered, the skin naturally responds to protect itself by stimulating its protective function to rebuild the barrier. The protective barrier is produced in the form of extra oil to create a film or extra skin cells to form a “crust”, or protective coating.

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It is this protective “crust” that then sits on top of the skin like a layer

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of cling film and traps impurities that normally would just slough off as part of the natural desquamation function of the skin. Sometimes the skin will also produce extra oil/sebum that creates a favourable environment for bacteria to grow and this is what causes the breakouts. Some therapists then start doing microdermabrasion, peels or other exfoliating treatments, starting the cycle all over again.

SO WHAT DO WE DO? We need to break this cycle by adding water-binding ingredients back into the skin and in some cases essential fatty acids (the good oils), which will in turn balance the skin. By adding water the skin will naturally swell and this will cause three things to happen; lymphatic and blood flow will be stimulated that will assist impurities to be eliminated, the crust on the surface and harmful oil flow will be reduced and instead will be replaced by a healthy, protective hydrolipidic film and intercellular cement, while blackheads and breakouts will be reduced, leaving a fresh, healthy skin in its place.

IDENTIFYING THE RIGHT HYALURONIC ACID One of the best ingredients to achieve this is Hyaluronic Acid, but we must make sure that we are using the correct molecular size Hyaluronic Acid as they all have different functions.

To rebalance the skin I would recommend a formula with a combination of three different Hyaluronic Acid molecular sizes, as each will provide you with different functions when treating this skin condition.

First up, let's re-look at Hyaluronic Acid as an ingredient:

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It belongs to the family of the glucosaminoglicans and is found in great quantities in the cells' extra-cellular matrix where one of its main functions is to retain water in the connective tissue It maintains the skin's hydration thanks to its capacity to retain water It fills in the spaces between collagen fibres where its polymeric network behaves like a viscous medium that supports the extra cellular matrix It influences many cellular processes (proliferation, migration, differentiation, etc.).

THE BENEFITS OF DIFFERENT MOLECULAR SIZES AND WEIGHTS

The benefits of bacterial flora balance varies depending on the skin type, for example, a mature skin needs help to maintain healthy levels of good bacteria, as with age its defences are reduced and it becomes less resistant to bacterial aggression, which can sometimes contribute to the cause of rosacea and other skin abnormalities. On the other hand oily skin needs help to maintain the healthy levels of good bacteria and protect it against infection, as well as the control of sebum bacterial proliferation and acne.

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Hyaluronic Acid with low molecular weight provides deep hydration and improves the viscoelastic characteristics of the skin, and thanks to its low molecular weight it is able to penetrate deeper and work on the dermis.

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Small molecular-sized Hyaluronic Acid offers the skin the following benefits: ! Deeply hydrating by improving the unions between keratinocytes ! Improves skin flexibility, suppleness and firmness ! Promotes cellular adhesion and proliferation ! Reduces the depth of the wrinkles As science continues to give us new advances, aesthetic professionals are now required to identify not only the appropriate ingredients, but more importantly their molecular structure and the role they will play in the formula. Understanding what Hyaluronic Acid does is no longer enough. We need to be able to identify further details about how it is formulated and which layer of the skin it can reach in order to ensure we are achieving the right outcome for the presented skin condition.

As dehydration is a major concern my recommendations is that all skin types can benefit from the appropriate Hyaluronic Acid, both in the salon and for their homecare. Increasing the hydration levels of the skin should always be the first step before you move your client on to more advanced treatments. This will help restore the skin's natural balance and most of the time will reduce congestion, blackheads, breakouts, inflammation, dull, sluggish skin or dry, lipid-dry skin.

Once you rebalance the skin it will also be much easier to identify major skincare goals and set your client on the correct treatment and homecare plan. This is really important when treating a skin with advanced cosmeceuticals and cell-renewal ingredients such as vitamin A or AHAs, as the skin will only “photocopy” the quality of the existing cell. If the cell is unhealthy you will be doing nothing but stimulating unhealthy cells.

Knowing the molecular size of each Hyaluronic Acid will allow you to more successfully target and address different skin concerns.

For example: Hyaluronic Acid with high molecular weight recovers the optimal moisture levels. It creates a non-occlusive film (ie: healthy hydrolipidic film) on the epidermis that regulates water, perspiration, encourages elimination of wastes and protects the skin against external aggression.

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Hyaluronic Acid with medium molecular weight strengthens the skin's natural defence system to allow a lasting protection against the pathogenic bacterial flora. Like the health industry has realised the benefit of friendly bacteria in our gut with the release of products such as Inner Health Plus, etc, our skin also needs a good balance of good and bad bacteria. Each cm2 of our skin has millions of microorganisms that make up the skin's flora. Some of these are pathogenic and some are not. The skin, as the physical barrier that it is, has developed its own defence mechanisms to prevent bacterial pollution or infection. One of them consists in the keratinocytes liberating ßdefensins, which are specific anti-bacterial peptides that help to keep the skin flora in optimal condition.

Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 17 years’ experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business step-by-step. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves imparting her knowledge to others. She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional client services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success. She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including the Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems.

If you believe that Tess can help you grow your business or to find out more about Germaine de Capuccini's organic range phone 1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876.

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UNDERSTANDING & CREATING CULTURE PART 1 – Understanding the Value System of the Individual It is a well known fact that clients come to us not only for results, but also for the “unique experience” that we offer them. As businesses face challenging times and strong competition the issue of standard and culture is one competitive advantage that can help them retain client loyalty and gain new clients through an incredible reputation. While ambiance can create atmosphere, it is the human element of culture that brings it all together and gives value and significance to the client experience.

Business experts worldwide are now identifying the growing importance of culture as the single most important differentiating factor that will help businesses, and particularly service-oriented businesses, retain their competitive edge and continue to draw clients to their doors. Culture has now become so important that it has become a specialised area of study.

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Mark Viney is a qualified teacher and educator. This is the first of a series of articles in which he will present the fundamental principles of culture, what influences the development of our own personal culture, and ultimately how we can move forward and embrace a corporate salon or business culture that unifies our message to the consumer and creates a powerful tool for personal growth and client appreciation and satisfaction.

Every time people gather together on a regular basis they create a “culture”. This culture can either be deliberately fostered or not focused on at all; regardless, the culture will develop, and it is this culture that will attract others to the group or causes ones to leave and seek alternative groups.

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The culture of any group is based on the values and ideas that they share. However, not all group members have equal weight given to their ideas and values. Dominant individuals, or closely aligned sub-

By Mark D Viney

groups tend to propagate their ideas and values as the key ones of the group and in doing so overwhelm less forceful individuals' ideas and values and drive the culture of the group. This can and does isolate individuals and cause them to become increasingly dissatisfied until they eventually leave the group. If there are sufficient alienated members of the group then this dissatisfaction can be highly destructive to the group. Equally destructive can be groups where two or more dominant individuals or sub-groups set up opposing cultures.

No group can have more than one culture, so the conflict will rage until the group splits, disintegrates totally or one or more individuals leave.

WHAT ARE VALUES AND WHY ARE THEY IMPORTANT? Values are those deeply held principles that people hold to when making decisions. Individuals express their values though their behaviours. Organisations express their values through their working culture. Who you are and what you stand for is becoming just as important as the quality of products and services you provide.

Research shows that there is a strong link between financial performance and the alignment of a organisation’s operating values to the employees' personal values. Why? Because the business values drive the business culture, the business culture drives the employees’ sense of fulfilment, the employees’ fulfilment drives the customer satisfaction, and the customer satisfaction drives business profits and value.

So gaining an understanding of personal and business value systems and the culture that develops from these will benefit both business owners and employees. However, to be able to develop this understanding and knowledge will require us to use a framework to map the values of individuals and organisations. Such a framework is

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found in the excellent suite of tools called the Cultural Transformation Tools (CTT) designed by Richard Barrett of Richard Barrett & Associates.

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UNDERSTANDING THE VALUE SYSTEM OF THE INDIVIDUAL ㈵

One of these tools is The Barrett Seven Levels of Consciousness Model, which describes the development of human consciousness. It applies to all individuals and human group structures, such as organisations, communities and nations. This model is an extension and adaptation of Abraham Maslow's Hierarchy of Human Needs, which underpins much of our human development, educational theory and psychology. Barrett made three changes to Maslow's model, and created a way of using the new model to measure the consciousness of individuals and organisations by mapping their values: 1. Changed the model from needs to consciousness 2. Expanded the concept of self-actualisation 3. Relabelled the basic needs 4. Developed a way of using the model as a measurement instrument

have a need to be respected by others. They operate from self-esteem consciousness.

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2. EXPANDING THE CONCEPT OF SELFACTUALISATION

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Barrett expanded the concept of self-actualisation by recognising this as a four-stage process. The first stage is also known as the stage of individuation. Individuation is the process by which we become the master of our own destiny by letting go of the aspects of our personal and cultural conditioning that prevent us from becoming our true self and fulfilling our potential. Prior to individuation (Transformation), we are conditioned by the expectations of those around us by the family and the culture we were brought up in. We align, and are loyal to, the groups with which we identify. It is through these groups that we satisfy our deficiency needs. During individuation (the first stage of self-actualisation) we establish a sense of our own personal authority and our own voice. We are able to let go of our need to identify with our background social environment because we have learnt how to master our deficiency needs. We now choose to live by the values and beliefs that resonate deeply with who we are.

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An overview of the first three changes is shown in the following table.

During the second stage of self-actualisation we uncover the transcendent meaning to our lives (Internal Cohesion). We then shift to Making a Difference Consciousness when we are able to actualise our sense of meaning by creating positive change in the world. When making a difference becomes a way of life we move to the Service level of consciousness.

3. RELABELLING THE BASIC NEEDS Barrett changed the names of the basic needs by grouping “physiological” and “safety” needs into Survival Consciousness, and relabelling “love and belonging” as Relationship Consciousness.

4. DEVELOPING A MEASUREMENT INSTRUMENT Lastly, Barrett realised that each level of consciousness is characterised by specific values and behaviours. Therefore, if people were asked to choose the values that were important to them or the values that characterised the culture of their organisation, then it would be possible to map their individual consciousness and the consciousness of their organisation. The measurement instruments that Barrett developed are called the Cultural Transformation Tools (CTT). [The Barrett Model.pdf] Each individual grows in consciousness in these seven well-defined stages. Each stage focuses on a particular need that is common to humanity and these needs are the principal motivational force in all our affairs.

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The shift from needs to consciousness was made because Barrett realised that when people have underlying anxieties or subconscious fears about one of their basic needs, their subconscious remains focused on that need. Even though it would appear to an outside observer that they have satisfied that need, they cannot get enough of what they want to assuage their anxiety or subconscious fears. For example, there are people who are never satisfied with the amount of money they earn, even though they are wealthy. These people are not operating from need: they are operating from survival consciousness.

They are preoccupied with making money. Other people cannot get enough love: they operate from relationship consciousness. In business, we often find people who cannot get enough power: they

As Bartlett states: “Each of the seven levels of motivation focuses on a particular existential need that is inherent to the human condition, an ego need or a soul need. These are the principal motivating forces in all human affairs. Individuals grow in consciousness by learning to master the satisfaction of these needs. Individuals who learn how to master all seven needs without harming or hurting others operate from full-spectrum consciousness. They are self-actualised individuals who have the ability to respond appropriately to all life's challenges.”

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The seven needs that constitute the seven levels of human motivation are shown in the following table.

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Survival: Satisfying your physiological needs and creating a safe and secure environment for yourself to grow.

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Relationships: Satisfying your need for belonging, and feeling loved and accepted by those with whom you interact daily.

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Self-Esteem: Satisfying your need to feel good about yourself, your ability to manage your life, and building pride in your performance.

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repressed fears will be triggered causing us to react emotionally to a situation rather than respond rationally.

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When an individual holds deep insecurities about survival, anxiety becomes pervasive in their life. Such individuals easily get upset or angry. Whenever something goes wrong they see it as a personal threat. They believe they live in a hostile and brutal world. They are always on guard, and feel that if they don't look out for themselves no one else will. Consequently, to feel safe they must control everything around them. They micro manage their lives and have great difficulty in trusting anyone.

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For these people time is of the essence. They are driven. They need to be super efficient, so if they think they have the answer they will stop listening. They are not good at giving other people the time they need to process. They are very focused on their own needs and find it difficult to put themselves in somebody else's shoes. The anxieties they hold keeps them focused in survival consciousness.

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Transformation: Becoming more of who you really are by uncovering your authentic self and aligning your ego with your soul.

Internal cohesion: Finding meaning for your life by uncovering your passion or purpose and creating a vision for the future you want to create.

Making a Difference: Actualising your sense of purpose by cooperating with others for mutual benefit and fulfillment.

Service: Devoting your life to selfless service in pursuit of your passion or purpose and your vision.

The “lower” needs, levels 1 to 3, focus on the needs of the self in a physical body our physiological need for survival, and our emotional needs for belonging and self-esteem.

The focus of the fourth level is personal transformation. This is where we apply our intellect to our personal development by pursuing the inquiry into “Who am I?” “Why am I here?” and, “What is my purpose”.

The “higher” needs, levels 5 to 7, focus on the needs of the soul to live out its purpose the need to find meaning in our lives, the need to make a difference in the world, and the need to be of service.

LEVEL 1: SURVIVAL MOTIVATION The first level of human motivation is concerned with survival. We need clean air, food and water to keep our bodies alive and healthy. We also need to keep ourselves safe from harm and injury. Our motivation at this level of consciousness is self-preservation. Whenever we feel threatened or insecure physically or economically, we shift into survival consciousness.

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How we deal with survival situations as an adult depends on our conditioning as a child. If our parents did not stress or display anxiety about survival issues, then the chances are that we developed a healthy relationship to survival consciousness. In this case, we would approach survival situations later on in life from a rational perspective rather than an emotional perspective. We would simply get on with what we had to do in order to survive without creating an emotional storm.

If on the other hand our parents were constantly stressed or anxious about survival during our early childhood, and we were influenced by these emotions, then whenever we encounter a survival situation our

LEVEL 2: RELATIONSHIP MOTIVATION The second level of human motivation is concerned with relationships that engender a sense of emotional belonging. We learn very quickly as young children that if we don't belong we cannot survive. We also learn that in order to belong we need to be loved.

When we are loved unconditionally, we develop a healthy sense of relationship consciousness. We like ourselves because we grew up feeling loved for who we are.

When the love we receive from our parents is conditional on our behaviour, we learn that love has to be earned. This conditioning gets hard-wired into our young minds as beliefs about how to fit in, how to get love, and how to be accepted. When this happens we grow up with the subconscious belief that we are not liked or not worthy of love, or that we do not belong, and we learn to conform to the wills and desires of our parents and the culture we were brought up in. Consequently, our consciousness is constantly focused on looking for signs of affection, acceptance or inclusion, and we want to be liked.

People who suffer in this way will avoid telling the truth if they think it will prevent them from getting the love or acceptance they want. They may even put up with verbal or physical abuse as long as they feel that they have a place in the world where they belong.

The most frequent manifestation of fear-based relationship issues shows up in conflict avoidance and excessive harmony seeking.

Conflicts are hard to deal with when we believe that speaking up could cause the other person to be angry and hold back their love. So we learn to avoid conflicts or diffuse potentially upsetting situations by changing the subject, being humorous or behaving as if we are walking on eggshells. The last thing we want to do is ruffle any feathers. Sometimes we will use humour simply as a way of getting the attention we crave.

If we are holding on to a fear-based belief that we are not loved or lovable, or that we don't belong or are not accepted, our consciousness will stay focused at the relationship level of consciousness.

LEVEL 3: SELF-ESTEEM MOTIVATION

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The third level of human motivation is concerned with self-esteem and self-worth. We need to feel good about ourselves and respected by others; not just our immediate family, but also by our peers. ㈵

We build a healthy sense of self-esteem when we are young by spending quality time with our parents, and receiving praise and

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acknowledgement from them praise for trying, not just for winning.

People with a healthy sense of self-esteem take pride in themselves and in their performance. They excel at what they do. They are reliable and responsible. Because they don't need to stand out from the crowd, they are good team players. They don't need to prove anything to themselves or others. They just feel good about who they are.

When we don't receive enough praise, are ignored by our parents, or acknowledgement is held back or conditional on winning, we grow up believing that we need to prove to others that we are worthy of their love or attention. Such individuals seek the respect they need through wealth, status, power or authority. They can be highly competitive and extremely focused on winning. Their self-esteem is built around who they are in the world and their achievements. They need to look good and project a positive image. They want to stand out from the crowd and be noticed. They want to be the best, so they can receive the respect or recognition they did not receive as children. Taken to an extreme, they want fame and glory. They want to bask in the adulation of the crowds.

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People with a poor sense of self-esteem often mask their feelings of inferiority by name dropping or arrogance. The purpose of these behaviours is to make you think they are well connected or to feel good about themselves by appearing superior. If we are holding on to a fear-based belief about our self-worth, our consciousness will stay focused at the self-esteem level. We will continually be seeking opportunities to get the attention we crave.

MASTERING YOUR DEFICIENCY NEEDS What keeps us locked into the first three levels of motivation are the subconscious fears we hold about not being able to satisfy our basic human (deficiency) needs, and the belief that we are a victim of our circumstances. The only way out of this situation is to become responsible and accountable for every aspect of our lives, including our emotions. We must learn how to manage, master or release our survival, relationship and self-esteem fears if we are to fulfil our soul potential.

LEVEL 4: TRANSFORMATION MOTIVATION The fourth level of human motivation is concerned with the search for your true authentic self, and managing, mastering or releasing the subconscious fears that keep us focused on the first three levels of consciousness. It is about understanding who you are as a separate unique individual without your parental and cultural conditioning. It is a time for expressing yourself without fear.

Those that grew up in safe, loving and respectful environments already have a head start in this regard. To others they appear to be courageous. In reality, they simply have a healthy relationship with fear.

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The most important task at this level of consciousness is to ask yourself the questions: "Who am I?"; "Who is the "I" that lies beyond my parental and cultural conditioning?", and "Who is the "I" that is waiting to get out into the world?" You are beginning to uncover your authentic self and your reason for being in the world. As you progress with this inquiry you will find the beliefs of your ego gradually aligning with the values of your soul. As you let go of your fears, you become a soul-infused personality and a truly authentic individual.

Once you embark on this journey you will need to seek feedback from others about how you are coming across. Find out what people think are your strengths. Ask others how you can improve. Find out what situations trigger your subconscious fears. Understand the origin of these fears and work on managing, mastering or releasing them. If

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necessary, find a life coach who can support you in this process.

are not fulfilling your potential.

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Learn how to respond rather than react when your fears are triggered. This all requires courage, self-examination, and a willingness to deal with unpleasant emotions. Unless you understand, and either manage or release the pain of the past, it will keep you anchored in the first three levels of consciousness.

Regular bouts of anger, emotional upset, and rage are sure signs that the ego is out of alignment with the soul. Also watch out for signs that you are being aggressive towards others, in both the written and spoken word.

LEVEL 6: MAKING A DIFFERENCE MOTIVATION

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Fully expressing who you are without fear of what others think, particularly our parents and peers, gives you the opportunity to make choices that are more authentic and affirming of who you are choices that allow you to express your true self. The work of transformation is neverending. It is a lifelong process of personal work, self-discovery, and the fine tuning of values and beliefs.

LEVEL 5: INTERNAL COHESION MOTIVATION The fifth level of human motivation is concerned with finding your meaning in existence by uncovering your soul purpose. What we focus on at this level of conscious is finding an answer to the question, "Why am I here in this life, in this body and in this situation?" For some, this may appear to be a daunting inquiry. For others, those who were gifted with a particular talent, it may be obvious. If you are not sure or don't know your soul purpose, simply focus on what you love to do, follow your joy, develop your talents and pursue your passion. This will eventually lead you to where you need to be to fulfil your destiny.

The road to your destiny may have many twists and turns. You need to recognise that it is a journey. Many people do not uncover their mission until much later in life. When they look back they realise that all the twists and turns had a purpose to prepare them through their experiences to be able to fully give their gift. What is important is to pay attention to what is immediately in front of you. Do not judge it. Give it all your attention and energy and create a vision for the outcome you want to achieve.

There is an important relationship between this level of consciousness and the previous level. If you are not able to manage, master or release your fears you will not be able to align with your soul. Your fears will hold you back. To fully step into your soul's purpose you will need to become fearless.

Your purpose may seem like something small or it may seem like something large. Whatever it is, you need to recognise it is what you came to do, and you need to follow your inspiration.

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Once you embark on this journey, you will gradually learn how to separate the thoughts generated by the ego from the inspirational promptings of the soul. When you stay open to the influence of your soul rather than influence of the ego, you will find that you are guided along the path that you need to take. When you are fully in your flow you will find that your needs are met even before you know you have them. Life becomes a journey of synchronicity. It just unfolds in front of you. Be assured that the moment you commit your energy to your soul purpose all manner of events will unfold in front of you to support you on that journey.

When the needs of the soul are ignored over long periods of time, depression and physical sickness result. You begin to feel uncomfortable with your life. You feel lost. You may even feel bored. You can't exactly explain what is wrong. You just know you

The sixth level of human motivation is to make a difference in the world that surrounds you. It is pointless having a purpose that gives your life meaning if you don't do anything about it. You quickly learn that the difference you can make is much bigger if you collaborate with others who share a similar purpose or are aligned with your cause. This is where all the work you have done in learning how to manage, master or release the emotions associated with your subconscious fear-based beliefs pays off. The more easily you are able to connect and empathise with others, the easier it is to collaborate.

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At this level of consciousness you become a servant-leader. You realise that your ability to fulfil your soul purpose is conditioned by your ability to facilitate the work of those that are supporting you in your purpose or cause. It is through others that you leverage your impact on the world.

If you are stuck in control, blame or an exaggerated sense of your own importance, people will not be drawn towards you. They will keep their distance and you will lose opportunities to fulfil your soul potential. This is why transformation is so important. As you uncover deeper and deeper levels of your own insecurities, you will need to return to this level of consciousness to manage, master or release your fears.

The focus at this level is on action. Finding the right avenue to express your purpose may not be straightforward. It may mean giving up a way of life that brings you comfort, stability, and certainty. It may mean moving location, giving up friends, and letting go of financial stability.

Will this be scary? Yes. Is it something you can avoid? No. You will never be at ease with yourself if you do not follow your passion. There is no real alternative. You either follow your soul purpose or you spend the rest of your life in regret.

LEVEL 7: SERVICE MOTIVATION The seventh level of human motivation is selfless service to the cause that is the object of your soul purpose. This occurs when making a difference becomes a way of life. You are now fully imbued with your soul purpose and are living as a soul-infused personality. You are at ease with uncertainty. You will need time for quiet and reflection. You embrace humility and compassion, and you live and breathe your purpose every moment of your day. You know that there is nothing else for you to do with your life. Your ego and your soul are completely merged.

The only dangers you now face are getting carried away with the exhilaration of the flow of your life and just plain caring too much about your mission. You must never forget that you have physical, emotional, mental and spiritual needs, and they all need to be met. Caring for yourself is just as important as caring for others, because if you do not exercise, eat healthy regular meals, have deep friendships, feel good about yourself, and maintain what disciplines are necessary for your spiritual life, then you will not be able to sustain working on your soul purpose over a long period of time. It is all about maintaining a sense of balance. You need to decide if you want to find balance daily, weekly, monthly, quarterly or yearly. Finding out what works for you in this regard is important.

It is also important to stay focused on your core mission and vision. It is so easy to spread yourself too thin or get involved in too much detail. You must resist these temptations if you want to be effective and fulfil your destiny.

REF: The Barrett Values Centre http://www.valuescentre.com

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Look after your clients We would like to introduce our NEW Joyce Blok Natural Skin Care Anti-Ageing range. These intensive skin care products include a cleanser, tonic lotion, day cream with SPF 15 and a night cream.

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Created especially to counteract challenging environmental conditions, this range helps minimise and prevent the appearance of ageing, while defending the skin against freeradical damage.

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1300 665 003 katie@completebeauty.com.au www.completebeauty.com.au

Anti-Ageing Range

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Medicinal herbs for the treatment of Inflammation

CHAMOMILE Inflammation is a condition that is perpetually present in many skin conditions. In fact most skin abnormalities are characterised by some form of inflammation – acne, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea as well as sensitive skin conditions with evidence of surface erythema or broken capillaries such as telangiectasia.

By Tina Viney There are three main types of chamomile oil used in aromatherapy.

These are Roman chamomile, German chamomile and Moroccan chamomile. It is important to know the difference between the different types of essential oils.

Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) is one of the oldest

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It is now a validated scientific fact that ageing is a result of low-level continuous inflammation. Treatments therefore that soothe and create an anti-inflammatory effect are beneficial for most skin types and conditions, and even more so during the summer when temperatures are at their highest. While cold compresses and spritzing with cooling toners is one way to soothe the skin, there are some excellent herbal or essential oils that should be in every salon's cabinet. One such oil is Chamomile.

CHAMOMILE Chemically, essential oils are a complete formula and chamomile has some incredible therapeutic constituents that make it very effective in reducing inflammation. Because of their chemical composition essential oils are able to penetrate the skin to the dermal layer without the need for human manufacturing intervention, and thus benefit not just the skin, but also other organs within the body as well as the nervous and limbic system.

known herbs and has been used for centuries by many civilisations such as the ancient Egyptians and the Greeks. Chamomile also has the ability to protect any plants in its vicinity from infections. The Roman chamomile essential oil has a sweet, apple-like fragrance and is very light clear blue in colour with a watery viscosity.

Chemical composition The main chemical components of Roman chamomile oils are apinene, camphene, b-pinene, sabinene, myrcene, 1,8-cineole, yterpinene, caryophyllene, and propyl angelate and butyl angelate.

German chamomile (Matricaria recutica) also has a long history of medicinal use in Europe. It maintains a lot of the same qualities of Roman chamomile; the only difference is, due to its dissimilar chemical make-up, German chamomile has greater benefits when used on the skin. The German chamomile oil has a sweet, straw-like fragrance, is dark blue in colour and its viscosity is medium.

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Chemical composition The main constituents of German chamomile oil are chamazulene, a-bisabolol, bisabolol oxide A, bisabolol oxide B and bisabolone oxide A.

On the other hand, if you are also dealing with a highly stressed individual, or one with an irritable disposition, you can utilise the benefit of Roman Chamomile with a gentle head and shoulder massage prior to a facial to assist in calming and relaxing your client.

Both Roman and German chamomiles can be used individually or you can combine them as suggested above for a greater synergistic effect.

TYPE A B C D E F

Bisabolol oxide A Bisabolol oxide A alpha-Bisabolol Bisabolol oxide A and B and alpha-bisabolol alpha-Bisabolol oxide A Green EO with low amounts of matricine

As we have mentioned above Roman chamomile essential oil is highly beneficial in the treatment of system conditions. It offers the following therapeutic properties: Analgesic, anti-spasmodic, antiseptic, antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, anti-infectious, anti-depressant, anti-neuralgic, antiphlogistic, bactericidal, carminative, cholagogue, cicatrisant, emmenagogue, febrifuge, hepatic, sedative, nervine, digestive, tonic, sudorific, stomachic, vermifuge, immuno-stimulant and vulnerary.

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It is indicated for conditions such as:

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Overall Roman chamomile essential oil is well known for its calming, balancing effects on the body's systems and particularly calming effect on the nervous system.

USES OF GERMAN CHAMOLILE On the other hand, German chamomile essential oil offers the following therapeutic properties: Analgesic, anti-allergenic, anti-spasmodic, antibiotic, antiinflammatory, antiphlogistic, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant, cholagogue, emmenagogue, hepatic, digestive, sedative, stomachic, vermifuge, vasoconstrictor and vulnerary.

It is indicated for conditions such as: Acne, dermatitis, eczema, inflamed and sensitive skin, abscess, boils and bruises. Headaches, irritability, migraine, depression, anxiety, inflamed joints, menstrual and digestive problems.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY CONSTITUENTS IN GERMAN CHAMOMILE

USES OF ROMAN CHAMOMILE

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Both Roman and German chamomile have excellent calming properties, but Roman chamomile is more effective for system conditions and nervousness such as irritation, impatience, feeling disagreeable, and has great value in treating PMS and other menstrual and menopausal conditions. On the other hand German chamomile is superbly effective on the skin, not only to sooth and calm, but to heal, as well as for tissue regeneration. This is due to its high content of the chemical constituents Azulene and Bisabolol, which gives it its blue colour and its strong cooling and antiinflammatory effect. In fact German Chamomile has six different components of Bisabolol as you will see from the table present in this article.

In cosmetic chemistry both Azulene and Bisabolol constituents are often isolated and introduced as a derivative within skincare formulations, and these are very common ingredients that you will find in several sensitive skin ranges. However, by using German Chamomile you are in fact accessing a complete spectrum of Bisabolol and Azulene constituents, meaning that you can achieve the maximum anti-inflammatory benefits. For this reason it is one of the most useful oils that can be used to calm the skin after extractions, soothe menopausal skin, calm skin inflammation and reduce sensitivity with reactive skin.

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Arthritis, colitis, headaches, insomnia, irritability, migraines, amenorrhea, dysmenorrhea, menopause, anemia, digestive problems, leukocyte formation stimulant, liver and spleen congestion, and on an emotional level, oversensitivity and irritability. It can also be used on sensitive skin conditions and acne for its healing and analgesic properties.

As you can see, while both Roman and German chamomile essential oils have very similar properties, German chamomile is particularly beneficial for skin conditions.

MOROCCAN CHAMOLILE This oil is golden in colour and has a very pleasant herbal aroma.

While it offers similar properties to the German and Roman chemotypes its therapeutic constituents are not as high, so it offers milder anti-inflammatory benefits. However, it is a very pleasant oil to use and is excellent for both skin and body, offering a relaxing and soothing effect. It is also substantially cheaper than the other chamomile oils.

METHODS OF USE

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All essential oils should be diluted before using on the skin and chamomile is no exception.

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When used in skincare treatments essential oils are a powerful tool in achieving significant and measurable results. For this reason I strongly recommended gaining qualifications in aromatherapy as a very worthwhile and valuable pursuit. It is a timeless therapeutic modality and can offer you the ability to enhance not only skincare results, but also assist in whole-body wellness.

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However, for the purpose of this article I recommend the following doses:

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FOR FACE: Place three drops of essential oil of chamomile in 10

mls of cold pressed carrier oil and blend to create a massage oil.

Wheatgerm is an excellent choice for mature skin as is jojoba oil or avocado. A blend of the three would also be an excellent choice.

However, if you do not have access to these use a cold pressed almond or apricot oil. Another good choice as a carrier is rosehip oil.

Rich in trans-retinoic acid, it is a wonderful choice for traumatised skin, scarring, dehydrated and photo-damaged skin conditions. We covered this oil in depth in the spring issue Volume 10 of APJ.

You can also disperse three drops of chamomile oil in a teaspoon of honey and blend, then mix with 100 mls of distilled water and refrigerate for at least one hour. This then creates a wonderful toner that you can mist over the face prior to applying a mask or as a toner at the end of a facial and before applying moisturiser.

A third way to use chamomile essential oil is to include it in a clay mask. Blend 3-4 drops into the mask and mix well prior to application.

FOR THE BODY: Mix 12 drops to 15mls of carrier oil, blend well and use to perform a head and shoulder massage or hand and foot massage. Of course you can also perform a full body massage depending on the need.

PRECAUTIONS All three types of chamomile oil are considered non-toxic and nonirritant, yet since they do have emmenagogue properties (hormonal) when used in high concentrations, they should be avoided during pregnancy.

While there are numerous quality ingredients on the market that can offer relief to skin inflammation Chamomile will guarantee you results not to mention the numerous other benefits as an added bonus.

Related References and useful research on Chamomile

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Aromatherapy Workbook Marcel Lavarbre Chamomile, from A Modern Herbal Department of Pharmaceutical Science and Technology, University of Turin Amsterdam JD, Yimei L, Soeller I, et al. A randomized, doubleblind, placebo-controlled trial of oral Matricaria recutita (chamomile) extract therapy for generalized anxiety disorder. J Clin Psychopharmacol. 2009;29(4):378382.

Blumenthal M, Goldberg A, Brinckmann J. Herbal Medicine: Expanded Commission E Monographs. Newton, MA: Integrative Medicine Communications; 2000:57-61.

Avallone R, Zanoli P, Puia G, et al. Pharmacological profile of apigenin, a flavonoid isolated from Matricaria chamomilla. Biochem Pharmacol. 2000;59(11):1387-1394.

Martins MD, Marques MM, Bussadori SK, Martins MA, Pavesi VC, Mesquita-Ferrari RA, Fernandes KP. Comparative analysis between Chamomilla recutita and corticosteroids on wound healing. An in vitro and in vivo study. Phytother Res. 2009 Feb;23(2):274-8

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Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...

If you own or manage a salon in the beauty or wellness industry, the 5 point business check-up is a must.

1. H ave you added a new treatment or service to your salon’s menu in the last 12 months?

Remember, your insurance policy needs to include cover for any new treatments you now offer, or plan to offer.

YES NO

2. Have you purchased anything worth more than $1000?

Purchases like POS systems, (or even a large order of new stock), can alter the amount of insurance cover your salon needs. It’s vital you know what your level of cover is, and exactly what your policy does (and does not) cover.

YES NO

3. H ave you moved address, hired or fired any staff?

Your insurance policy details must be ‘up-to-the-minute’ correct to avoid any loopholes in the event of a claim.

YES NO

Ph. Mon - Fri (07) 5502 8326 Email: sue@thesparrowgroup.com.au Mobile: 0422 313 081 Fax: (07) 5519 4359 www.thesparrowgroup.com.au

4. Is the correct person or registered entity listed on your insurance policy? (Company, Trust etc.)

It’s the little details that can cost you time and money in the event of a claim.

A FREE Insurance Review is the best way to make sure you’re covered.

YES NO

5. Have new or better policies come onto the market recently?

An insurance review doesn’t mean you end up paying more. If fact, there could be more competitive products or insurers standing by right now to save you.

YES NO

If you ticked YES to ANY of the questions in the 5 point check-up, call and ask for a Complimentary Insurance Review. It’s FREE. There’s no obligation. And you could start saving… Today.

the

INSURANCE

AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN

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Mulberry, a new superfood for anti-ageing

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Coral is an animal that only survives because of the algae living within it. The mutually dependent relationship between the two organisms is the key to coral sun protection. Dr Paul Long, who is also heading a three-year project at King's College London, said: "What we have found is that the algae living within the coral makes a compound that we think is transported to the coral, which then modifies it into a sunscreen for the benefit of both the coral and the algae. Not only does this protect them both from UV damage, but we have seen that fish that feed on the coral also benefit from this sunscreen protection, so it is clearly passed up the food chain.

Mulberry comes naturally packed with anti-ageing properties that can help you keep your young bloom alive for longer. It is also said to have a crucial anti-ageing effect on grey hair and wrinkles. Mulberries are therefore hailed as one of the freshest and latest anti-ageing superfoods.

Should Hydroquinone Be Allowed in Cosmeceuticals?

The Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) is pleased to announce that they've been selected as a finalist in the 2011 WA Training Awards in the Training Initiative Category. The WA Training Awards are a pr e s t i g i o u s ev e nt , which recognises the s i g n i f i c a n t achievements of students, trainers and organisations. In 2010, AACDS was also a 'Trainer of the Year' finalist.

AACDS was up against the big boys, BHP Billiton, Central TAFE and Fortescue Metals. It's great to see that Dermal Therapy Education and training can compete in the same league as these multi-billion- dollar companies! Keep up the great work AACDS! For more information about Dermal Therapy Education and Training, please visit www.aacds.edu.au or call 08 9382 4788.

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Sunscreen pill could be available within five years, scientists say

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Researchers have uncovered the way that coral shields itself against harmful ultraviolet rays and they believe that this may pave the way for an anti-sun compound to protect humans.

Scientists from the Australian Institute for Marine Science analysed coral samples from the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.

They believe that within five years a pill that prevents sunburn

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Researchers at Brunswick Laboratories in the US have found the mulberry juice encompasses twice as many antioxidants compared to cranberry and orange juice, or even a few blueberries. According to the spokesman, Paul Green, “Mulberries have been used since ancient times to protect people from colds and other ailments, so I'm not surprised the fruit is a rich source of antioxidants”.

Dermal Therapy Education Leads the Way in the WA Training Awards

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could be available. However, such a product may have to be on prescription only to prevent people overdosing and harming their health. Some skin reaction to UV is vital for the production of vitamin D. Too much sun protection can lead to vitamin D deficiency, resulting in weak bones.

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The recent ban by the Texas Food and Drug Administration (FDA) on the use of hydroquinone (HQ) in skincare products at levels of four per cent and higher has once again put the ingredient at the centre of debate. Now many are wondering if HQ should even be allowed in cosmeceuticals.

HQ has long been used by cosmeceutical companies large and small in skin lightening and brightening formulas as a way to correct pigmentation disorders. However, the ban issued by Texas authorities, which mirrors the European Union ban, and which has forced many well-known cosmeceutical companies to issue recalls in Texas, had many asking why.

Rhonda Allison, founder and CEO of Rhonda Allison Cosmeceuticals, believes there are several factors at play. "First, the levels traditionally used have been entirely too high. Keep in mind recalls are only on products containing four per cent or higher HQ levels," she said. "Second, HQ is being used often in excess without the guidance of an aesthetic professional, and finally, many brands are not requiring or emphasising the importance of pairing HQ with ingredients that heal, support and protect the skin."

HQ is a chemical used to inhibit the synthesis of melanin by blocking one of the enzymes in the synthetic pathway, while destroying the melanocytes that produce it. When used in excess it can cause certain skin sensitivities, and because it in effect reduces melatonin, it can increase vulnerability to UV damage. "With the nature of HQ, or any corrective product, it's absolutely essential that it be paired with skin-building ingredients like epidermal growth factor, and protected with SPF 30," Allison said. "That said, there are also a number of HQ-alternative lighteners available, which we've used in our formulas for years. These include Bellis

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Perennis Flower Extract (Daisy Flower), L-Arbutin, Kojic Acid, Azelaic Acid, and Licorice Root Extract. These botanical brighteners are regarded as less sensitising than HQ and also support cell turnover, and provide antioxidant, healing and moisturising bioactives.”

Reference: Andrew McDougall, 07-Jun-2011

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FSKorea has factories in both China and South Korea with more than 1,200 employees.

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Company president J K Hwang said: "The demand for such materials has been very limited in the past, but now it seems to have changed.

Today, more environmentally friendly products are demanded by consumers." Held in Hong Kong, Cosmoprof Asia raised many issues with packaging manufacturers showing increasing concern about the use of environmental-related topics such as plant-based plastic, recycled content or use of natural materials such as bamboo.

NUTRICOSMETICS EXPERIENCES BOOM AACDS Releases the First Recruitment Site for Dermal Therapists &Cosmetic Nurses The Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) is pleased to announce the release of the first online recruitment site dedicated to the cosmetic medical field. Doctors/employers will be able to advertise employment positions for qualified Dermal Therapists and Cosmetic Nurses through the AACDS website.

AACDS Graduates are able to view the positions under password protection. AACDS Director April Jorgensen states, “This is a huge step for qualified Dermal Therapists and Cosmetic Nurses as they'll be able to more effectively job-hunt in the cosmetic medical field. Clinic owners/managers will also benefit from this free service, allowing them to easily recruit qualified and work-ready clinical staff”.

For further on AACDS Recruitment Division and/or to place a free ad for a position in your clinic, please email recruitment@aacds.edu.au or visit www.aacds.edu.au

The trend towards Green Packaging & Design In an industry renowned for its luxury image, there are signs that manufacturers' attention is turning to the sustainable development of cosmetics packaging, although there is a long way to go. The cosmetics industry is closely linked with the luxury goods market, and adopts this image on a frequent basis, so the environmental impact of packaging is not often a priority subject with some manufacturers.

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Anti-aging and beauty from within are expected to be in the functional food spotlight, according t o E u r o m o n i t o r.

Euromonitor analyst Ewa Hudson has identified beauty foods as a key area of focus for the global functional food and beverage industries as well as the personal care industry.

“Anti-ageing and beauty from within are important because people are concerned about their looks looking and feeling healthy gives them a better quality of life, influencing both their social life and their performance at work,” said Hudson. We now know that 90 per cent of skin ageing is because of the sun's radiation, and products like CoQ10, lycopene and collagen take the hit from the sun rather than your skin,” she told NutraIngredients-USA.com.

The three areas of focus are edible beauty products for skin, hair and nails. Benefits include: (for skin) repair and prevention; sun protection; firmness; pigmentation; whitening; and slimming; (for hair) retention and growth; restoration; nourishment; and volumising (for nails) strengthening.

According to the Kline Group, the global market for nutricosmetics was valued at $1.5bn in 2007, and is expected to grow to $2.5bn by 2012. Europe and Japan currently lead the market, accounting for 55 and 41 per cent of sales respectively. In contrast, the US holds only three per cent of the market.

Euromonitor says one of the reasons behind the success of nutricosmetics in Japan and Europe is their widespread availability.

Some 16 per cent of all supplements sold in Japan are positioned as beauty supplements. In Germany, 11 per cent of supplements are beauty-focused.

In Australia, Pure Interventions from Bioelements is experiencing great success as Australians identify the value of liquid anti-oxidants that offer a more bioavailable option in a fun and versatile manner.

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Event highlights sustainability However, feedback from the recent Cosmoprof Asia exhibition on the plastic packaging market suggests that cosmetics manufacturers are slowly giving sustainable development a bit more attention.

For example, cosmetic packaging manufacturer FSKorea Company used the exhibition as an opportunity to launch its wood-plastic composite materials for make-up bottles, in the belief that attitudes towards 'green' has changed. Headquartered in Seoul, South Korea

Major Cosmetic Companies say that sales figures are growing not faltering

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Two of the world's largest cosmetic brands, L'Oreal Paris and Procter and Gamble, who manufacture such brands as Olay in the US, have confirmed that sales figures for skincare globally have not faltered, in

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fact they have grown. As of 30th June L'Oreal's figures were up five per cent and P&G stated that their organic sales were up four per cent.

Both companies stated that the highest growth has come from their most expensive products as the growing ageing consumer sector is looking at ingredients more carefully and considering results.

EDUCATION LEADER NAMED AS TELSTRA BUSINESSWOMAN OF THE YEAR FINALIST

These are trends that the Australia beauty industry needs to take note, industry experts say. Salons need to reposition their marketing to promote the value of the specific ingredients within a product that make it a worthwhile, quality investment for those who are seeking to improve their skin.

Maureen Houssein-Mustafa, OAM, Founder and Chairman of Sydneybased training organisation MHM Australasia, operating as The Australasian College Broadway, has been named as a 2011 New South Wales Telstra Businesswoman of the Ye a r Aw a r d F i n a l i s t i n t h e Commonwealth Bank Business Owner Award category. Ms. HousseinMustafa, who founded the organisation with an initial investment of $1,600, growing it to a company valued at $35 million per annum, said, “I feel very privileged to be recognised by the Telstra Business Women's Awards, as it's a highly prestigious and coveted Award.”

Investing in the very best of training facilities, the College provides students with an environment modelled on actual working premises.

Collectively, over 300,000 students have graduated from the College's courses since the organisation was founded.

For further information about The Australasian College Broadway visit www.australasiancollege.com.au or call 02 9571 8288.

New method identified to count nanoparticles The molecular weight of ingredients is now becoming the most important factor in determining how a skin cell is impacted and science is seeking ways to sort out and count nanoparticles in cosmetics. Now scientists in Sweden have identified a way to sort and count nanoparticles even after they have formed aggregates, which could greatly benefit the cosmetic industry in determining their targeted use. Ann-Cathrin Johnsson, who based her thesis on this issue, stated that certain types of nanoparticles can start to aggregate in specific conditions and sometimes a so-called gel may form. The study involved one of these aggregated systems – colloidal silica. Dr Johnsson stated that a method that had been used only for analysing nanoparticles has now been developed further. She confirmed that nanoparticles that have aggregated can now be analysed individually if a colloidal silica gel, which contains these nanoparticles, is first diluted and then dispersed into the gas phase. If the samples are analysed immediately after being diluted, this method gives an accurate picture of the gelated system. This will allow skin experts to determine what skin conditions the formula will best work on.

Electronics in Cosmetics continues to grow due to consumer demand

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At-home electronic devices that facilitate beauty products are continuing to experience consumer demand and growth as a business sector.

Companies such as Clarisonic skin cleansers have reported immense growth and attribute this to consumers wishing to gain the best possible results if they cannot attend a beauty salon. The new Perfume and Cosmetic Design Forum that will be held at the Espace Champerret in Paris over two days on the 8th and 9th February 2012 will also consist of innovation workshops looking at the growth potential of electronics in cosmetics, providing a technological showcase to use, touch and experiment with new and emerging technologies, and an electronic makeup bar for professionals to discuss the market potential of this sector.

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DERMA FILL ELECTROPORATION The new lunch time facial to firm, lift, plump and hydrate the whole face, fill your fine lines, lift, lighten, brighten and plump the skin has now been introduced by Skin O2.

What is Electroporation?

EP is the new technology machine, using Electroporation to transmit cosmeceuticals into the skin without needles or pain, discomfort and downtime! You see instant, ongoing results and it is a lot more comfortable and quicker than old skin needling rollers!

“I recommend it to all my patients as a must have facial to help protect and restore their skin before summer” says Dr Atia.

“I am over 60 and I had one treatment of Electroporation followed by Skin O2 Liquid Facelift natural plant cell treatment. I was amazed as I saw immediate results.

My skin was firmer, especially around the eyes, brighter and I noticed a reduction in fine lines. I liked to call it the Botox™ alternative facial and recommend it to all my colleagues, friends and celebrity clients!”

Dr Penfil, Medical Director of Celebrity Medispa in Hollywood

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Discover the secret for yourself!

Want more information Phone 07 5593 448 or 0424 779 262 Web: www.skino2.com.au Email: sales@skino2.com.au

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MARIGOLD Offering rapid skin recovery and beyond

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One of the most credible plants that is useful when dealing with the skin is Calendula (officinalis) commonly known in its essential oil state as Marigold or Tagetes. This vibrant and sunny flower is full of incredible therapeutic constituents and remarkable healing powers.

As a herb extract you will find Calendula is numerous lotions, tinctures and as a valuable ointment in many first aid kits because of its rapid health for sprains, grazes and bruises. In fact, it is beneficial for numerous skin conditions. As a herb Calendula is incredibly beneficial to sooth eye infections and for conjunctivitis. As a warm compress on the eyes in can soothe pain and as a cold compress is can relieve swelling.

BENEFITS OF MARIGOLD Marigold Essential Oil (Tagetes Erecta) – is renowned for its antiinfectious, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic and its anti-microbial properties. Furthermore it has been proven to also be strongly antiparasitic and therefore useful in treating roundworms. Tagetes essential oil benefits slow healing wounds, burns, bruises, cuts, fungal infections, soothes inflammations, catarrh and respiratory infections.

It also is effective in dilating bronchi, easing mucus, congestion, coughs, aches, pains, strains, and in lowering high blood pressure.

Tagetes essential oil kills roundworms in the gut, and is effective on digestive system and aids candida infection.

THERAPEUTIC CONSTITUENTS Marigold Oil chemical constituents includes limonene (6.9%), terpinolene (4.7%), (Z)-myroxide (7.9%), piperitone (28.5%), piperitenone (10.9%), piperitenone oxide (7.2%) and βcaryophyllene (7.0%)

Calendula has long been available in an 'infused oil', where the

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flowers are soaked for some time in a carrier such as olive oil to extract their magnificent healing properties. In recent times it is also available through the highly effective Carbon Dioxide distillation process that

allows all the healing properties of Calendula to be imparted as a highly concentrated pure essential oil. This makes it finally possible to easily add the healing properties of Calendula oil to any skincare blend. For supplies contact a reputable supply of clinical strength formulas like Essential Therapeutics or Australian Botanical products. It is really a wonderful product to have.

In the salon it can be used after microdermabrasion, needling or laser treatments. Calendula oil in a very useful and it is suggested to be

which equates to 11 to 27 drops of Calendula essential oil per 25 mls of your total blend. In a carrier oil for the purpose of reactive skin we suggest that you add 3-4 drops in 10mls of Rosehip oil. It will assist in speeding recovery and protect the skin against infections.

CLINICAL STUDIES AND THERAPEUTIC APPLICATIONS As Marigold essential oils as a long history of use it has a significant body of data available through extensive scientific research over the last decade. In the Journal of Basic and Clinical Physiology and Pharmacology, Volume 20 2009, researchers at Amala Cancer Research Centre Amala Nagar, India, published a study examining the wound-healing effects of the extract of Calendula officinalis.

The researchers saw a dramatic increase in the healing speed of skin wounds, with the conclusion being summed up: "The data indicate potent wound healing activity of Calendula officinalis extract.”

Calendula oil also shows very potent antioxidant effects, along with protective effects to organ systems. Another study examining these actions concluded “Calendula Extract has been found to contain several carotenoids of which lutein, zeaxanthin and lycopene predominates. Possible mechanism of action of the flower extract may be due to its antioxidant activity and reduction of oxygen radicals." With this activity, the essential oil is not only an excellent choice for wound healing (and dermatitis of all types) but in daily-care recipes as well. One of the 'foundations' of skin ageing is that free-radicals speed visible ageing of our skin, and these highlyregarded antioxidants may have a significant effect at slowing this process.

Also of interest is the support offered by Calendula oil for those undergoing cancer treatment for radiation-induced epithelits, one expression of, which is commonly called 'radiation burns'. A paper published in the July 2009 French journal of Cancer Radiotherapy, researchers noted that while aloe vera was beneficial, "Calendula Officinalis was shown to be superior on radiation burns". Due to this effect, it may also be supportive in blends for hair loss, as much hair loss has been shown to be a result of inflammation on a cellular level.

SCIENTIFIC REFERENCES

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1. Snodderly DM. Evidence for protection against age-related macular degeneration by carotenoids and antioxidant vitamins. AM J Clin Nutr 1995; 62 (suppl): 1448S-1461S 2. What is Marigold Flower Petals Extract? What is Lutein?

Application and Value of Lutein as super remedy?

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tradeeventreport Conference & Expo 2011 NATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE Canberra ACT Held 8.30am – 4.30pm on CTI PRA TION S Sunday 25 September 2011

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APAN Education - Networking - News - New Releases - Prizes and Rewards - Fun These NEW HORIZONS events are niche but dynamic and APAN intends to consistently build on their momentum and establish them as an educational and networking tradition where great things will happen for both suppliers and therapists as well as business owners and their staff.

Here is the report following our latest one in Canberra in September 2011.

Canberra NEW HORIZONS – A Great Success Those who value education and understand the transformation it can offer will always find a way to prioritise and attend an event that promises quality education and information. There is something great that happens to us when after giving out so much to others we choose to enter an environment that will give something back to us, reignite our passion and open up new possibilities that can take us to new heights. And so those who chose to attend APAN's NEW HORIZON'S Conference and Expo in Canberra on the 25th September will attest to the value of their investment and the benefit they gained on so many levels.

It was encouraging to see many travel several hours to take part at this event. Some from as far as Western Australia and Queensland came with expectations of gaining great information and becoming reenergised to continue on their professional and business journey.

APAN commenced these events last year, staging the first NEW HORIZONS at Hervey Bay in Queensland. This year Canberra was chosen because it is easily accessible for both the local and surrounding regional towns in NSW. These events are niche but dynamic and APAN intends to consistently build on their momentum and establish them as an educational and networking tradition where great things will happen for both suppliers and therapists as well as business owners and their staff.

Terry Everitt This year the charismatic Terry Everitt was MC, who as always did a fantastic job at creating a professional atmosphere with his classic touches of humour, which made everyone feel so much at home.

The program was stepped up with the first session being opened with Gay Wardle who spoke to a mesmerised audience on Salon Secrets for Success. Gay exudes passion, honesty and sincerity and everyone loves her depth of knowledge and the ease in which she makes even a complicated topic easy to understand. Gay spoke about how

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Gay Wardle

Dr Dzung Price

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improving your knowledge on skin analysis can be used as a business building tool and allow you to constantly maintain appreciative clients and client growth.

Dr Dzung Price followed speaking on Weight Loss – The new boom and how you can benefit. Dr Price delivered a compelling presentation on some alarming statistics on what causes our body to retain weight and the hidden, underlying offenders that contribute to weight gain and disease. In her usual vibrant and positive style, which is very much her trademark, Dr Price helped navigate her audience to hope and positive solutions that can be immediately and easily implemented as part of a simple to follow wellness and weight loss program. Beyond Slim and Wellness Express are two new programs with specific protocols to help both salon owners and their clients

Tracey Collins

Terry Everitt

Gay Wardle

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Katrina Gilligan

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optimise and regain their energy and vitality, as well as achieve successful and maintained weight loss if needed. This program will open up a new frontier for the aesthetics industry to provide their clients with an additional service that was launched for the first time at this event.

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Tina Viney followed with her topic New Market Drivers that are changing the future of Aesthetics. Tina covered new technology in ingredients with specific emphasis on Probiotics, Hyaluronic acid and the move towards varying molecular weights as well as validated information on Peptides and their functionality within formulations. She also spoke briefly about the great need for scrutiny with organic products, urging therapists to investigate such issues as stability and the efficacy of their formulations before they undertake them within their salons. She further addressed the emergence of new technologies and their important and strategic role in achieving advanced treatment outcomes as well as the need of critically reviewing quality and manufacturing integrity and not just price when investing in equipment. Tina also spoke on APAN's role in providing the industry with sound advice and solutions when it comes to products, equipment, business and professional needs.

After lunch the long-awaited Industry Forum welcomed four dynamic presenters, Tess Walls, Tracey Collins, Gay Wardle and Katrina Gilligan (who took the place of Teresa Russo who was unable to join the group due to a family tragedy). Due to industry demand salon owners requested to hear from other salon and business owners on how they are overcoming obstacles and challenges with staff performance and business growth. Each speaker was able to share candidly from their experience on how they overcame their own challenges and turned difficult situations around to achieve success.

Their heartfelt and honest information was greatly appreciated by all who attended, and at the end of this presentation delegates had the opportunity to ask questions of the speakers.

The two afternoon speakers were Sandy Sanderson, who spoke on the benefits of ㄰

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Professor Ray Hayek

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As Canberra was in full bloom several guests enjoyed the magnificent beauty of Floriade and other regional attractions.

Transdermal Magnesium for the Skin and Body, and Professor Ray Hayek, who addressed delegates on the Need and Urgency of Higher Education.

Professor Hayek addressed the issue of professionals finding their information progressively inadequate in appropriately meeting the changing needs of their industry and being able to accommodate changes entering their sector. He stated that this was not only a problem for the aesthetics industry, but one that is now faced by many industries. New technologies are advancing so fast that often professionals are struggling to keep up with progress. He stressed his concern about the beauty industry being unregulated and opening itself up to unscrupulous operators that can bring the industry into disrepute. He also presented the dangers of the industry being overridden by other professional groups who can exploit this situation and secure modalities for their use only.

He stressed the importance for the industry to develop a Code of Conduct and Industry Standards to protect the industry's reputation, as well as the value and importance of formal higher education in allowing the industry to secure its future.

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Sandy Sanderson then followed and spoke on Magnesium as an important mineral that performs over 350 functions in the body.

She also addressed the effectiveness of transdermal magnesium as the prefered mechanism for its delivery into the body, and the easy ways that this can be achieved for better health and vitality as well as skin improvement. She spoke on how magnesium can

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help improve treatment results in the salon and the wonderful way it can be used through spritzers and the recent new TGA approved body butter that now allows salons to introduce a Magnesium Massage for a total wellness experience.

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The event was further supported by several distribution companies that contributed to the success of the event and brought valuable networking and business opportunities for the benefit of all.

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APAN would like to take this opportunity to thank all the suppliers and distributors who supported this event and also thank Terry Everitt and the fantastic speakers who gave of their time and knowledge to create an excellent educational program for the industry. Last, but not least a sincere thank you to the delegates who made the time to come. After all, the event was staged for your benefit and growth and our reward is to see this happen.

For all who attended and those who would like to hear these lectures the series of DVDs are now available for purchase in an attractively boxed set. You can purchase the complete set for $166 .

The date for the next NEW HORIZONS event has been set for May 27th 2012 in Townsville, Queensland. We anticipate even greater things at this event in 2012. .

If you would like to be included on our mailing list please contact us by completing a request form on our website www.apanetwork.com or email info@apanetwork.com

[0% Acid] [0% Harsh Chemicals] [100% Natural]

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THE NEW GENERATION OF BIO PEELING ㈵

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Patou Aesthetics Distribution Patricia Mangano Ph: 07 4057 8365 Mobile: 0419 665 383 Email: patriciamangano@hotmail.com Web: www.patou.com.au

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newtechnology As new technologies and techniques in anti-ageing are gaining popularity so consumers are becoming more familiar and comfortable to access these services. In recent years the trend has moved from a totally, wrinkle-free face to a fresher, naturallooking appearance as the preferred options. To support these trends techniques are becoming more sophisticated.

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For many years Dr Goodman has been involved in teaching advanced methodologies and improvement of techniques for facial enhancement and skin improvement, which he is passionate about. “Full-facial aesthetics,” he stresses, “is achieved when we effectively look at how we can improve facial balance and harmony rather than concentrate on just one feature.

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“Now this new tool will help educate consumers to better understand not just how their face is ageing collectively, but more specifically, how various aspects of their face, neck and hands are affected by ageing through the introduction of this new educational tool.”

HOYS is a new interactive software program that assists through a comprehensive method of examining and evaluating the health and age of a person's skin and features. Using the direct input by the patient and clinic staff, HOYS assesses the actual age of all the exposed skin sites as a whole as well as that of the individual areas. Through its unique system, HOYS identifies and highlights those areas that are ageing faster or are more effected.

This allows the patient to gain a greater understanding of where the treatment focus will need to be to bring these areas back into line with how that patient is generally ageing.

Furthermore, HOYS aids the prioritisation of treatments according to the patient's preference and allows the doctor to create an effective and personalised plan for treatment sessions, which can be used to keep track of the patient's treatment progress. HOYS also gives the clinic objective evidence of improvement with the ability to repeat and compare HOYS results before and after therapies for both the practitioner and the patient to view and appreciate.

HOW IT WORKS A patient is given by their doctor login information to access the HOYS program on-line.

The new tool that will determine

The program utilises a database of digital images depicting various aspects and degrees of ageing of exposed skin across seven geographic regions. They are: 1.

Forehead and scalp 2.

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Décolletage 7.

Hands.

HOW OLD IS YOUR SKIN? Greg Goodman — Associate Professor in Dermatology

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With over 30 years in clinical practice as a Dermatologist, Dr Greg Goodman is highly respected in medical circles, the aesthetics industry and of course the public. He is also an excellent educator and a regular speaker at medical conferences.

At the recent medical and aesthetics conference in Melbourne held by the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine APJ had the opportunity to speak to Dr Goodman about a new consumer tool that has been developed to help assess skin ageing known as HOYS, which stands for “How Old is Your Skin”. This assessment tool will bring a new level of client education to consumers in understanding how their skin is ageing and options available to them.

It then further assesses 35 facial and extrafacial sub-regions.

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A five-point photonumeric rating scale, which portrays age-related skin changes across five decades for each of these sub-regions, underpins this patient-based, interactive, self-assessment program.

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As an example, a patient is able to assess the age of say their forehead and compare it to five different age groups. Let us assume that the patient's chronological age is 50 and their forehead is in good condition, so it comes up as 42 in skin age. On the other hand they have the occasional cigarette and this results in their orbicularis oris

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muscles around their mouth are showing lines and skin sagging. When this area is assessed it could come up with a skin age of say 60.

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As Dr Goodman confirmed. “When looking at how ageing is impacting an individual it is best to look at the most problematic feature and determine what is letting them down and look at bringing that feature into balance,” he stresses.

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program commonly utilised in Australian aesthetic clinics, patients completing the HOYS patient education program have an improved understanding of age-related changes to exposed skin of their face, neck, décolletage and hands.

Due to the patient-specific nature of the program, patients perceive a greater role in the decision of which aesthetic treatments should be subsequently administered to enhance their appearance

This principle is opposite to makeup principles where the aim is to highlight the best feature, drawing attention to it and away from the worst feature.

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However, when looking at appearance-enhancement procedures, by improving a good feature further, in this case say a brow or eye lift to make those features look even younger, this will create a further imbalance if the lower region of the face is looking much more aged.

Based on the resulting outputs from this program, the patient gains a better and more objective understanding of what area of their face is letting them down the most and where significant differences between the patient's chronological and aesthetic ages exist. They then revisit their doctor who will determine these results and explain to the patient their treatment priorities and what personalised treatment would best assist in improving the various regions.

This provides guidance for the patient and the treating physician on treatment options that they both can understand and accept. It also puts doctor and patient on the same page and allowing for better acceptance of treatment priorities and choice.

Compared with a prospective cohort of patients completing a standard education

Patients receiving the HOYS education program have reported greater empowerment through improved knowledge of their specific needs and they appreciate that they can now gain the opportunity to participate in the selection of the treatments potentially administered to improve their appearance.

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At this point, the HOYS program is only designed to relate to medical aesthetic procedures and not to skincare treatments as delivered within an aesthetic skincare clinic. However, this could change in the future.

For further information contact HOYS Pty Ltd Email: admin@hoys.net Phone 03 98264 966

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EFFECTIVE WEIGHT-LOSS BOOSTERS Experts advocate the benefit of weight-loss accelerators may be the key to weight-loss, while sustaining lean body mass Achieving an optimal body weight is very much part of looking and feeling younger and there are many diets on the market that promise to take off kilos, but science is now questioning the nature of the loss and warning against random weight-loss without determining what you are losing.

proportional,”he said.

Dr Fielding further went on to say that when a dieter loses weight, but still maintains the same lean body mass to body fat percentage, they generally maintain or further slow down an already sluggish metabolism and the dieter regains the weight, and then some.

In a recent report published in the Integrative Medicine Anti-Aging e-Journal Dr Manon Fielding expressed concerns that in regards to obesity, most weight-loss failures are due in large part to the almost fanatical focus on weightloss rather than fat-loss. “There is a growing recognition that lean body mass is much more important in weight-loss because this is what correlates with general health and wellbeing.

One ingredient, which Dr Fielding advocates that offers great support and is a valuable adjunct to a sensible weight-loss program is Forslean®. This is a patented product made from the Coleus Forskohlii plant.

One important biochemical action of Forslean is to increase the production of cyclic AMP (also know as cAMP). cAMP is a significant biochemical agent that has been found to reduce inflammation, reduce blood pressure, enhance bronchodilation (helpful for asthmatics), and regulate various hormonal systems.

Because many conditions of ageing result from hormonal changes, this is a very positive anti-ageing benefit.

“Lean body mass consists of muscle, organs, bone, bone-marrow and connective tissue. The percentage of lean body mass is a better index of physical fitness, general health, susceptibility to disease and premature mortality. Products that can safely increase lean body mass will also increase the body's metabolic rate because they are directly

“Forslean shifts the proportion between lean body mass and adipose tissue in favour of lean body mass, which improves overall health,” explains another researcher, Vladmir Badmaev, M.D., PhD. “The effect can be measured by decreases in the waist/hip ratio and the body mass index (BMI).” His scientific team proposed that by facilitating hormonal activity, cyclic AMP may regulate thermogenesis, increase the basal metabolic rate and thereby increase the body's utilisation of fat. A buildup in lean body mass would also result. The results of one eight-week trial of Forslean demonstrated that the mean values for body weight and fat content significantly decreased, whereas lean

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body mass significantly increased (see graph below).

loss of body fat is possible with a variety of commercial strategies.

However, the range of fat loss indicated that some subjects actually lost very little fat and some lost a great deal of fat.

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Another researcher, Shari Lieberman, Ph.D, conducted further studies on various diets and the effect of incorporating Forskolin to determine results.

Dr Lieberman conducted a pretest/post-test study with a randomised group design and three cohorts utilising three types of diets: 1. A ketogenic diet (high protein) 2. A Zone diet (high protein, controlled carbs) 3. A conventional low caloric diabetic exchange diet that supplied <10 per cent, <40 per cent, or <50 per cent of calories from carbohydrates, respectively.

Each subject's body composition was measured before and after the intervention treatment period via dual energy X-ray absorptiometry (DEXA). The subjects' average weight loss was 11.24 pounds for those who completed the 12-week program. There were no significant differences in total weight, fat or lean body mass loss among the diet groups. Attrition was substantial for all diet types.

1. Ketogenic diet at 43 per cent 2. Zone at 60 per cent 3. Conventional low caloric diet 36 per cent.1 A further study compared the weight-loss effects of four commercial programs that use differing approaches.2 These were the Slim-Fast Plan (a meal-replacement approach), the Weight Watchers Pure Points Program (an energy-controlled diet with weekly group meetings), Dr. Atkins' New Diet Revolution (a self-monitored low-carbohydrate eating plan), and Rosemary Conley's "Eat Yourself Slim" Diet & Fitness Plan (a low-fat diet and weekly group exercise class).

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The primary outcome measure was percentage of fat-loss over 24 weeks. A total of 293 healthy people were randomised to either a control group or one of the diet groups. The subjects were broken into 79 (27%) men and 214 (73 %) women, with an average body-mass index (BMI) of 31.7 kg/m2 (range 27-38) and an average age of 40.3 years.

All of the diets tested were effective and produced significant weight and body-fat losses compared to what occurred in the control group.

On average, men lost 9.12 kg (23 per cent of initial body fat) and women lost 5.2 kg (16 per cent of initial body fat).

Mean body fat percentage Mean lean body mass percentage

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T H E W E I G H T- L O S S C H A L L E N G E CONTINUES Numerous studies on weight-loss diets indicate that low glycemic index diets are superior to just low calorie diets in terms of compliance and overall weight-loss. 3 However, based on clinical experience, the weight-loss for many individuals is still too slow on any weight-loss plan despite the inclusion of exercise and lifestyle modifications.

This situation often leads to attrition and frustration on the part of dieters.

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Another compounding factor that may slow weight-loss is the occasional "cheating" that occurs at parties and social functions. It appears that very high body fat — in particular, high intra-abdominal fat — is associated with slower metabolism, metabolic syndrome, and slower fat and weight-loss.5

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This is often a consequence of constant dieting, which results in greater muscle-to-fat loss and regaining of weight as body fat over time. This constant alteration of body composition in the direction of higher body fat and lower lean-muscle mass can cause decreased metabolism, thermogenesis, and oxidation of adipose tissue.

WEIGHT- LOSS ACCELERATORS It is now considered that to achieve ultimate successful weight-loss safe and effective weight-loss accelerators are important for enhancing weight-loss efforts via diet, exercise, and other forms of lifestyle modification, including stress reduction.3 Studies have shown that natural products, such as green tea (Camellia sinensis) catechins, 5-hydroxytryptophan, and chromium, can be excellent adjuncts to a comprehensive weight-loss program.

As presented earlier Forskolin from the active plant compound in coleus (Coleus forskohlii) is another weight-loss accelerator that promises to improve lean body-mass composition. So what do we known about this compound and what evidence do we have about its ability to assist in weight-loss?

HISTORY OF COLEUS AND FORSKOLIN Coleus grows on the mountain slopes of Nepal, India and Thailand. In traditional Ayurvedic medicine, this plant was used to treat skin rashes, asthma, bronchitis, insomnia, epilepsy and angina pectoris.

Coleus was also used as a spice.6 Scientific studies have focused on forskolin, a diterpene active plant compound that has only been found in coleus. There are more than 5000 studies on the medicinal properties of forskolin.6 It is a potent stimulator of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP), which produces a wide variety of effects.

Animal studies have shown that forskolin has anticancer and antiinflammatory effects and human studies have shown that this compound may be effective, in the form of eye drops, for treating glaucoma.7

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However, there was considerable variation in body-fat loss within each diet group. This led to the average differences between the diets being quite small and not significant. This study demonstrated that

Six (6) overweight, but otherwise healthy, women were selected to receive a 250-mg capsule of a standardised extract of coleus (ForsLean®; Sabinsa Corporation, Piscataway, New Jersey) providing

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10 per cent forskolin (25 mg).8 The participants were instructed to take one capsule in the morning and one in the evening, 30 minutes before a meal. They continued their usual exercise and dietary habits and were monitored by a physician specialising in weight-loss medicine.

Baseline measurements were taken before the start of the study and at four and eight weeks. Body composition was measured using bioelectric impedance.

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During the eight-week trial, the mean values for body weight and fat content were significantly decreased and lean body mass was significantly increased compared to baseline (Wilcox on matched pairs test). Weight loss was statistically significant (p<0.05), with a mean of 4.3 pounds and 9.17 pounds lost, respectively, after four and eight weeks.

Percent of body-fat values were 33.63 ± 3.02 at baseline, 30.10 ± 4.34 at 4 weeks, and 25.88 ± 4.77 at eight weeks, which was statistically significant (p<0.05). Per cent of lean body mass values were 67.07 ± 3.02 at baseline, 69.90 ± 4.34 at four weeks, and 74.13 ± 4.77 at eight weeks (p<0.05), which was statistically significant.

Treatment did not have any adverse effects on systolic/diastolic blood pressure or pulse rate. Instead, the trend was towards lower systolic/diastolic pressure in the course of treatment. This preliminary study indicated that 50 mg of forskolin can safely and significantly lower body weight and body fat, and increase lean body mass without any changes in diet or exercise regimen.

Further studies were conducted, all of which confirmed similar results.

It appears that forskolin is safe and effective for reducing body weight and body fat, and may preserve lean body mass. This product significantly increased HDL serum levels, while significantly decreased the ratio of total cholesterol to HDL suggesting that forskolin may improve specific aspects of patients’ lipid profiles.

CONCLUSIONS Weight-loss remains one of the most challenging health issues. The attrition rate is high when diets are too restrictive and/or weight-loss is unreasonably slow (less than 1-2 pounds per week). Based on several clinical studies it seems that diet and exercise modification may simply not be enough to induce sustained desirable effects in some individuals. The appearance of weight-loss accelerators such as forskolin may enhance diet and exercise efforts, in particular, by improving body composition by inducing weight-loss predominantly as body fat and preserving lean body mass.

Information submitted by Clinical Skincare, Healthcare and Equipment distributors of Clinical BioLean, an advanced thermogenetic weight management and nutritional formula with Forslean® Coleus Forskohlii Extract.

REFERENCES 1. Landers P, Wolfe MM, Glore S, Guild R, Phillips L. Effect of weight loss plans on body composition and diet duration. J Okla State Med Assoc 2002;95:329-331.

2. Truby H, Millward D, Morgan L, Fox K, Livingstone MB, DeLooy A, Macdonald I. A randomised controlled trial of 4 different commercial weight loss programs in the UK in obese adults: Body composition changes over 6 months. Asia Pac J Clin Nutr 2004;13(suppl):S146.

3. Lieberman S. Natural methods for accelerating weight loss.

Altern Complement Ther 2003;9:1-1.

4. Lindeberg S, Cordain L, Eaton SB. Biological and clinical potential of a Paleolithic diet. J Nutr Environ Med 2003;13:149160.

5. Lara-Castro C, Garvey WT. Diet, insulin resistance, and obesity: Zoning in on data for Atkins dieters living in South Beach. J Clin.

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An interesting question indeed! What does this mean? Surely we can manage our behaviour or can we? Well in reality our behaviour is controlled by our subconscious, and if we were to manage our behaviour we are consciously managing the subconscious. The subconscious is the program where we do things automatically and without too much thinking about the action.

If I were to ask you to describe your behaviour you would probably say things like, I am a beauty therapist, a nurse, cosmetologist, dermatologist, plastic surgeon and so on.

These are labels that we have adopted and so act and behave under those labels.

But who we really are and how we behave should n o t b e governed by the label we wear.

So our real behaviour is governed by our attitude and how our real self behaves through three areas of communication: ! Body Language ! Voice, and ! Words.

If our attitude is positive it reflects in these three areas, and equally when our attitude is negative.

As a Master NLP Practitioner and Trainer Dr. Tad James stated that there is no unresourceful people, only unresourceful states. We are in charge of our minds and therefore our results. The pivotal issue is our attitude and the choice of making it positive or negative. So I like to share with you the meaning of the word

ATTITUDE by what each letter stands for. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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A stands for ACTUALISATION The key word here is actual and it means existing in reality or existing in the present. Abraham Maslow, professor of psychology, in 1943 described this state in his Hierarchy of Needs as a person that has discovered their real self and being able to accept their strengths and limitations both in the psychological and physical sense.

Therefore they are able to forgive, accept and see only positive in others and the environment. Excellence in themselves is the benchmark.

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T stands for THINKING PATTERNS How we think about and address a situation or activity is crucial to the outcome. I know that a negative thought in the subconscious without being spoken can have an adverse affect on the outcome of an action or even a series of forthcoming events. I was playing a round of golf the

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other day and a fellow golfer mentioned to me how bad he had played the next hole that we were approaching, when he played it last week.

He even continued to give me a detailled recollection of the pathetic series of shots that he had executed and the high number of points that he had accumulated. Now this is a common occurrence with humans as they feel compelled to let you know of their experiences, and in most cases it is the negative ones that are remembered and told. This is a form of saying that I tried hard but did not succeed and I hope to do better this time round.

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I will give you one guess as to how he performed on the same hole.

Yes, you are right if you said, not too well. He nearly duplicated half of his shots and replied, “I knew it. It always happens to me on this hole”. What he was not aware of was that he really didn't give himself a good fighting chance to play well.

You see, he went with his program of adversity instead of reprogramming a positive thinking pattern of shots within his capabilities and working on his conscious mind in the present. This will reflect in his stance (body language), what he said (words) and how he said it (voice).

This same thinking pattern also works when we look at the under, performance of our business, our staff and how the so called downturn in the economy is affecting us and hence affecting our thinking patterns. The question again is “Is it positive or negative?”

T stands for TRIGGER Very simply we have a choice of pulling the positive trigger or the negative trigger in life. It is that simple, but why do some of us choose to fire the latter. Yes, I do know that we have many obstacles in life and in some cases have been surrounded by negative people, bad environment, negative staff, unfair bosses, bad economy, rising interest rates and the list goes on. Remember we are in charge of our minds and therefore our results.

I stands for INITIATIVE To take the initiative in any situation shows a positive attitude as this is a sign of pro-activity. To be able to try out new things and to explore new ways of thinking and at times to even take calculated risks. You don't have to be an extrovert to show initiative as this behavioural trait comes from people who always choose to pull the positive trigger in life.

T stands for TRANSPARENCY To be fair, equitable and transparent in your management style will certainly foster positiveness in your staff, which leads to better productivity and a healthier bottom line. It is the number one ingredient the Gen Y looks for in their bosses. They might not always agree with certain decisions, but they would still respect the decisions made if the work environment is a positive one. This will then also reflect on your clients through your staff, who foster loyalty and increase clientele. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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U stands for UNIQUE PERSONAL POSITION We are unique individuals and hence display individual behaviours that say who we are. Remember that we are not our labels, but rather represent our selves. It is important to understand that we are selfbrand that we are constantly marketing to others around us. Are we conscious of this brand? Are we pulling the positive trigger of life whenever we display the self-brand? Are we conscious of how we act, what we say and how we say it, when we communicate? You`ve heard the saying, “You only have one opportunity to make a first good impression”.

D stands for DESIRE You know when you really desire something you will overcome all obstacles to achieve it. Desire breeds passion, excitement, initiative, love and a powerful force that blinds and rejects any negative influence that wants to infiltrate your thinking patterns.

E stands for ENERGY How do you feel when you are energised? You feel alive, your senses are electrified, adrenalin running high and your blood is pumping.

Your behaviour is contagious and others would want to be around you.

Staff would reflect your enthusiasm and will find it easy to pull the positive trigger of life.

So whenever you are feeling gloomy and you are allowing the gremlins in your subconscious to rule your actions, remember to do a self-check on your ATTITUDE, and take heed of the Five Principles of Success. ! Know your outcome ! Take action ! Learn to sense the behaviour of others around you through acute observation ! Have behavioural flexibility ! Operate with excellence in your psychology and physiology

Phillip Fernandez is a Human Strategist and Director of Wizard Business Consulting. If you need assistance on the above topic or any people performance-related issues please contact Phillip on 1300 747 389, Mobile: 0402 213 813. Email: phillip@businesswizards.com.au or visit www.businesswizards.com.au

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APJ 87

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THE SCIENCE OF THE HEART and the role it plays in

HUMAN PERFORMANCE

By Tina Viney Aestheticians and beauty therapists are as a rule compassionate carers and nurturers by nature. They often work intuitively and function very much from a heart perspective. On the other hand Western education encourages us to adhere to rationales that are very much evidence based and advocate reason and logic as the most credible and reliable premises to determine the accuracy of information. But now new information is giving the “heart” greater credence. This article will attempt to present some of these findings and hopefully help you appreciate the heart not just as a physical pump that circulates our blood around the body, but as an organ with its own “intelligence” and of great significance to how we process information and determine how we behave.

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For centuries the heart has been considered the source of emotion, courage and wisdom. Neurocardiology is the relatively new science of exploring the physiological mechanisms by which the heart communicates with the brain; thereby influencing information processing, perceptions, emotions and health. Neurocardiology asks questions such as: Why do people experience the feeling or sensation of love and other positive emotional states in the area of the heart, and what are the physiological ramifications of these emotions? How does stress and different emotional states affect the autonomic nervous system, the hormonal and immune systems, the heart and the brain?

Over the years scientists have experimented with different psychological and physiological measures, but consistently heart-rate variability, or heart rhythms, stands out as one of the most dynamic and reflective measures of inner emotional states and stress.

It is clear that negative emotions lead to increased disorder in the heart's rhythms and in the autonomic nervous system, thereby adversely affecting the rest of the body. In contrast, positive emotions create increased harmony and coherence in heart rhythms, and improve balance in the nervous system. The health implications are easy to understand. Disharmony in the nervous system leads to inefficiency and increased stress on the heart and other organs, while harmonious rhythms are more efficient and less stressful to the body's systems.

THE HEART AFFECTING INTELLIGENCE AND AWARENESS More intriguing are the dramatic positive changes that occur when techniques are applied that increase coherence in rhythmic patterns of heart-rate variability. These include shifts in perception and the ability to reduce stress, and deal more effectively with difficult situations.

Apparently, the heart is acting as though it has a mind of its own, and is profoundly influencing the way we perceive and respond to the world.

In essence, the heart is affecting intelligence and awareness.

There is now a scientific basis to explain how and why the heart affects mental clarity, creativity, emotional balance and personal effectiveness. Research indicates that the heart is far more than a simple pump it is in fact, a highly complex, self-organised information-processing centre with its own functional "brain" that communicates with and influences the cranial brain via the nervous system, hormonal system and other pathways. These influences profoundly affect brain function and most of the body's major organs, and ultimately determine the quality of life.

MEASURING THE HEART'S ACTIVITY Biofeedback researchers and practitioners are enthusiastic about the emergence of this new Biofeedback tool. Like Neurofeedback, Heart Rate Variability’s (HRV) simple technical name belies its power and importance in the rapidly evolving field of life, performance enhancement and longevity. However, its effectiveness is amplified even more when combined with Neurofeedback training. Heart-rate variability is a measure of the naturally occurring beat-to-beat changes in heart rate, a powerful, non-invasive measure of autonomic nervous system function and an indicator of neurocardiac fitness. The heart and brain maintain a continuous two-way dialogue, with each influencing the other's functioning. It is now known that the signals the heart sends to the brain can influence perception, emotional processing, and higher cognitive functions. Let's start with a simplified discussion before we dig deeper into the hard science and technical jargon.

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Throughout history philosophers have asserted that “when the heart enters the brain wisdom emerges”. Now, neurocardiology has

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demonstrated that there are physiological correlations for this ancient concept. Furthermore, these discoveries have been translated into a fascinating and enjoyable form of Biofeedback with enormous potential. Part of the reason for this potential is that people are attracted to the simple, common-sense notion that there is something that can be done to assure that their thinking will be positively influenced by their heart. Of course, heart represents one's humanity, compassion, wisdom, etc., but most people are keenly aware that feelings in the heart profoundly affects health.

With HRV hard science is being applied in order to achieve the physical and psychological objectives of improved health and enhancement of intelligence. And skilful HRV training is doing so by increasing EQ (Emotional Intelligence – Daniel Goleman) and integrating all of that with attention and improved brain coherence.

Using nontechnical language we can describe the process as follows: unhealthy stress causes thinking to become relatively incoherent and that correlates with incoherent brainwave activity. Incoherent (dysfunctional) brainwave activity leads to a decrease in general health and increases mistakes, lowering performance and enjoyment of life. This kind of dysfunctional thinking also influences the variability and coherence of EKG (heart rate) activity. The two dynamics then potentate each other leading to a downward spiral of quality of health and thinking.

One of the tenets of modern psychology and learning theory is that what we think determines our reality. "As you think so you are." Since the heart mediates the emotional system, and since thoughts with an "emotional charge" are those thoughts that most influence our life and our reality, it can be suggested that the heart truly is massively influencing the brain and our reality – if not dominating it.

MECHANICAL RELAXATION TECHNIQUES NOT ENOUGH Self-regulation training of breathing and relaxation has always been one of the most important aspects of Biofeedback, reduction of maladaptive stress responses and performance enhancement.

However, those who are expert at this kind of work have long complained that just mechanically teaching people how to relax the muscles and breathe diaphramatically, and stop breathing dysfunctionally, is useful but not enough. Somehow, the teacher has to train the client to generate extremely subtle, so called "positive" feelings in the heart area (plexus). The problem is that such feelings are incredibly difficult to communicate verbally. Of course, they can be communicated nonverbally, but it is a high art to do so. Skilful use of HRV Biofeedback training simplifies and accelerates the learning of these special feelings.

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Think about the biological implications for consciousness. For example, the heart has many "brain cells" of its own, and secretes many "brain chemicals", including two of the most important in life and performance enhancement – serotonin (critical in managing stress) and oxytocin (critical in enhancing relationships or "bonding"). Furthermore, it has been demonstrated that as the heart rhythms become more coherent so do the brain rhythms, and as brain rhythms become more coherent, so does thinking. Coherent thinking in turn leads to enhanced creativity or more theta brainwaves, which are associated with bursts of insight – the "eureka" experience.

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SCIENCE OF THE HEART The following offers a more technical description of neurocardiology and its implications for Biofeedback. The autonomic nervous system (ANS) profoundly influences the major organs. Sympathetic fibres pass through the cranium and sacrum; parasympathetic fibres are associated with thoracic and lumbar vertebrae. A number of health problems can arise in part due to improper function or balance in the

ANS. The activity in the ANS and the balance between the two branches is greatly affected by emotions. For example, anger causes increased sympathetic activity and reduced parasympathetic activity.

Constriction of the arteries resulting from excessive sympathetic stimulation can contribute to hypertension and heart attacks.

Biomedical research has revealed that the heart is not just a simple pump, but a highly complex, self-organised information-processing centre with its own functional "brain". With each beat, the heart continuously communicates with the brain and body via the nervous system, hormonal system, bioelectromagnetic interactions and other pathways. Scientists are demonstrating that the messages the heart sends to the brain not only affect physiological regulation, but can also profoundly influence perception, emotions, behaviours, performance and health.

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The heart produces by far the most powerful rhythmic electromagnetic field in the body. The brain and all the cells in the body are continuously bathed in the heart's electromagnetic field, which can also be detected several feet away from the body by sensitive instruments. The implications are that the heart is an energetic system, and the heart's field is a carrier of emotional information and a mediator of bio-electromagnetic communication both within and outside the body.

Many scientists believe that the heart's field changes distinctly as we experience different emotions, and is registered by the brains of people around us. The heart's field also appears to be capable of affecting cells, water and DNA studied in vitro. The implications of these findings are that people may be capable of affecting their environment in ways not previously understood; and that such "energetic" interactions may be prominently influenced by our emotions. Growing evidence also suggests that energetic interactions involving the heart may underlie intuition and important aspects of human consciousness.

In addition to the extensive neural communication network linking the heart with the brain and body, the heart also communicates information to the brain and throughout the body via electromagnetic field interactions. The heart generates the body's most powerful and most extensive rhythmic electromagnetic field.

Compared to the electromagnetic field produced by the brain, the electrical component of the heart's field is about 60 times greater in amplitude, and permeates every cell in the body. The magnetic component is approximately 5000 times stronger than the brain's magnetic field and can be detected several feet away from the body with sensitive magnetometers.

CONCLUSION It would appear that while working on individuals within a relaxing treatment environment, we can not only make changes to the skin, but possibly also create a pleasant, positive and relaxing environment where the heart can feel safe to make the necessary adjustments towards better health. The growing body of evidence of the role of the heart in disease prevention and longevity may soon give our treatment environments greater significance with scientifically validated evidence.

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RELATED REFERENCES For more information on the Institute of HeartMath's research and publications, please visit www.heartmath.org

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APJ 89

SPOTLIGHT ON PRODUCTS

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Hyaluronic Acid at its best Germaine de Capuccini's Hydracure range is the cure for optimal hydration. The range features a new and intense Active Hydration Professional Treatment, New Intense Comfort Hydractive Retail Mask, and three skin specific Hydractive Treatment retail creams.

Recommended for all skin types and in particular for skin showing symptoms of dehydration, premature ageing and lacking luminosity. After just one application the skin feels plump, dewy and perfectly hydrated.

Hydracure works by using concentrated and active high performance ingredients. Three different molecular sizes of Hyaluronic acid work to improve hydration at different depths in the skin. High molecular weight Hyaluronic acid helps restore the optimal levels of moisture by forming a film on the skin's surface and preventing water loss. Medium molecular Hyaluronic acid strengthens the skin's natural defence system providing lasting protection against pathogenic bacterial flora, while low molecular weight Hyaluronic acid provides deep hydration, improves the skin's firmness and minimising wrinkles. The formula also contains ceramides to nourish, recharge the skin and enhance skin renewal.

Find your PERFECT PARTNER to your nail enhancement services

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with FRENCH WRAP PLUS

Smile lines and free edges, sought after by today's eclectic clientele are time consuming and unprofitable for salons. If you are offering Shellac, or any of the myriad of brush-on and soak-off gels, Dashing Diva have invented your saviour. FRENCH WRAP PLUS is the perfect partner. Use the partners together to create exactly what your clients are looking for. For you it's creativity and profit, exactly what your salon needs. French Wrap Plus is so simple to fit, view the FREE LOOK video at www.salonsgroup.com or Phone 1800-655-814 for your

personalised access link. Quote this ad in APJ for freight-free delivery on your next order.

Contact Germaine de Capuccini on 1300 432 100 or visit www.germaine-de-capuccini.com.au

Start earning money straight away

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With summer coming on you will find that teeth whitening is fast become a procedure with a very high demand. This simple procedure is a fantastic revenue maker if done correctly. Doing it right means using a quality lightening accelerator and the correct whitening gel (Hydrogen Peroxide). Distributors of the famous Australian Teeth Whitening System say they have the highest concentration and safest on the market, as well as the appropriate whitening accelerator, an LED lamp emitting cold blue light with a wavelength of around 465 nanometers. This wavelength is ideal for activating the hydrogen peroxide and accelerating the whitening process to up to 14 shades lighter for a brilliant smile!

The Australian Teeth Whitening System is manufactured in America to a very high standard that meets with all regulatory requirements. It is now experiencing great success in Australia as salons can rest assured they will be introducing a safe and high quality product to their clients that can offer them great results. (Testimonials available on request). Ask as for a SPECIAL introductory Teeth Whitening Package and start earning excellent profits straight away. Package also include retail products to further increase your profits. For further details contact

Anita Hunt Ph: 040 666 4117 or email anita@aust ralianteethwhitening.com.au APJ 90

NEW!! AHAVA Launches ‘EXTREME TIME TO REVITALISE’ Sometimes you need to go to extremes in order to strike a healthy balance. So when we wanted to develop a nature-inspired formula for effectively improving the signs of ageing in mature skin, we started at the Dead Sea, the lowest point on Earth, and ascended to the highest peaks of the Himalayas.

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The age-defying ingredients found in these two extreme altitudes of the planet have a significant impact in maintaining young and healthy skin in harsh environmental conditions such as experienced in Australia. Together, they combine to produce a powerfully effective complex that revitalises aged skin by significantly reducing wrinkle depth, enhancing firmness and correcting environmental damage. Call SKIN FACTORS PTY LTD

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on TOLL FREE 1800 824 282 for more information

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®

Clincal BioLean with Forsleen

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Research now confirms that the most effective way to lose weight and retain results is to ensure that you boost lean muscle tissue. Clinical Biolean is an advanced weight loss accelerator using the scientifically-proven results of Forsleen patented formula of Coleus Forskohlii Extract, which helps to boost weight loss, while supporting lean body mass.

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Synergistically combining an additional range of proven herbs, vitamins and mineral this potent formula is the perfect supportive nutrient for a successful weight loss program.

Available from Clinical Skincare, Healthcare and Equipment.

Phone: 1800 628 999.

NEW Peel-off Gluco-Alginate “Pomegranate” Mask This new powder mask is a multifunctional peel-off mask and is integrated easily and effectively into a facial treatment. It is based on an extract obtained from the heavily symbolic pomegranate – the symbol of eternal youth. Peel-Off Gluco Alginate "Pomegranate" with added Glucose for restoring the skin's moisture content improves cell regeneration and is an excellent treatment to offer your clients during summer to help combat UV light-related damage.

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GIFT VOUCHERS with a difference

Rich in polyphenols and anthocyanidins, pomegranate stimulates the formation of new keratinocytes in the epidermis and improves skin vitality as a whole. The most extraordinary benefit of this radically innovative ingredient is that it boosts the sun protection factor (SPF) rating of topical sunscreens so that the same SPF protection levels are maintained using fewer chemicals and more antioxidants! Buy a 10 pack and receive a free Elleebana Pre-Collagen Cleanser 250ml, valued at $19.95 (limited time only). Available in convenient & hygienic 30 gm single use sachets.

Beautifully presented Gift Vouchers are very much part of the attraction to lure someone to choose your services as a gift over something else. But printing high quality gift vouchers can be quite expensive. APAN has developed a wonderful solution to this. For Christmas they have designed two different Christmas Gift Vouchers. Uniquely seasonal they will help you increase your sales for treatment and products this Christmas season.

Contact Ex-Import Niche Products for more info T: 07 5576 6388 E: otto@eximport.com.au

And there is more. If you check the APAN website you will find over 13 different designs and topics to choose from including Thank You Cards, Happy Birthday and special cards designed for Promotional events and reaching out to clients who have not visited you for some time. The necessary information is included on the back and all you need to do is place your details to customise them for your salon. These cards are colourful and attractively presented with a cello-glaze finish that make them very appealing. In fact, they can replace a card.

New release: VALENTINE'S DAY CARDS. These gorgeous cards will entice both men and women to purchase the perfect gift for Valentine's Day from you. Use them to generate sales.

Why not include some with your Christmas Gift Voucher order and save. You can order one design or a mixture of designs and themes. Your Gift Voucher promotion has never been easier!

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SPECIAL OFFER: Purchase 150 of one design or a

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mixture of Gift Voucher or Post Cards of your choice for the special price of $95 and we will send them to you FREIGHT FREE. Contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

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APJ 91

Perfect Christmas Gift Packs from Natural Compatibles

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Liquid Gold Skin Perfecting System Alpha-H has spend a decade developing a system of therapeutic cosmeceuticals that target the key factors of ageing as they manifest in the different layers of the skin. These formulas are now available for the first time in a unique three-stage course of night time treatments - Liquid Gold Skin Perfecting System.

Each formula harnesses the unique corrective effect of pharmaceutical grade Glycolic Acid, herbal extracts and antioxidants to provide overall renewal of the skin. This systems synergistically targets tissues damage including discolouration and age spots to rapidly unify skin tone, restoring youthful glow and vitality. Liquid Gold products are free from parabens, kojic acid, hydroquinone, artificial fragrances and colours.

Contract Alpha-H on 1800 659 777.

ENERGIST Ultra Plus Spa

Enhance by Natural Compatibles have beautifully packaged some of their most popular products as the perfect gift. The Perfect Lip Pack contains a best-selling lipstick shade, a complementary lip pencil, lipgloss and lipseal. The pack comes at a great offer of RRP $49 (normally $87, Save $38). At that prices these pack will be snapped quickly as a hot favourite gift.

Available in a variety of lipstick shades to suit every taste. Natural Compatibles' lipsticks fortified with vitamin E and lavender oil, are renowned for their creamy texture and long-lasting application.

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emerginC Scientific Organics introduces the new at-home facial peel + clarifying pad kits a highlyeffective 2-step at-home treatment, with easy-to-apply cotton pads, to remove dead skin cells, renew complexion, brighten, nourish, clarify the skin and minimise the appearance of fine lines and w r i n k l e s .

Formulated with natural fruit acids, lactic acid, aloe, cypress, tea tree, green tea, willow bark and apple extracts the pads are suitable for all skin types and conditions. For

information call L 02 9712 8188.

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Natural Compatible gift offers phone 03 9764 0966.

emerginC Scientific Organics at-home peel + clarifying kits

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Clients love Wet & Dry Foundation – it is one of Natural Compatibles' best tellers.

Wet & Dry foundation provides a smooth, creamy coverage that creates the perfect oil free look, which lasts all day. This fantastic product not only covers imperfections beautifully, but also provides the skin with excellent protection through its natural sunblock ingredients titanium and zinc oxides. Furthermore, the smooth and natural finish will last all day in even the most humid climates.

Packaged in a convenient and elegant purse sized reusable compact Wet & Dry Foundation duo is available in three shades RRP $65 (normally RRP $83.

SAVE $18). For these and other

The new 2011 Energist Ultra Plus Spa has been released with features that boost the already high-performance of the existing Ultra Plus. Energist maintains its reputation as one of most precise and efficient IPLs available by adding latest-release internal components and a new high-definition touch screen interface that improves the userfriendly operation. The Ultra Plus Spa comes with two handpieces with lower limits of 530nm and 610nm. Finance and rental options are available through High Tech Laser. Call 1300 309 233 for more

information.

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[0% Acid] [0% Harsh Chemicals] [100% Natural] ㈵

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youngerlooking eyezone

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Change your clients’ skin! with 2B Bio Peeling

SKIN O2 LAUNCHES “MUST HAVE” BEAUTY CHRISTMAS GIFT BOXES!!

Delight your clients with these enticing Beauty Gift Boxes for Christmas from Skin 02 and boost your sales! Choose from premium Doctor Designed pampering beauty products and treatment voucher packages for him or her. Cheeky Kiss Blush- n-Lips, Lash Enhancement, Superbody Fat Blaster/Slimmer, Something to Smile About Teeth Whitening, Plump-a-licious Lips and more. From RRP $39.95 they make the perfect gifts. For these and other gift ideas phone Skin02 07 5593 4488 or email john@skinO2.com.au www.skino2.com.au.

VITAMIN C REVERSAL SERUM Circadia by Dr Pugliese's Vitamin C Reversal Serum is an excellent for tightening lose, ageing skin and supporting collagen integrity. It contains hyaluronic acid to bind moisture in the skin and Vitamin C in the form of Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate that offers superior anti-oxidant properties as well as Theophylline renowned for its skin firming properties. Circadia skincare also offer an incredible selection of advanced skin treatment products and protocols for clinical results. An example is the SWiCH Dermal Rejuvenation Systems offers Oxygen Rx Therapy, DermalFrost

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Procedure, Lactic Acid Procedure, Alpha/Beta Procedure, MandeliClear Peel System and Jessner's Procedures and a variety of advanced enzyme treatments are just the beginning.

For further details contact Circadia by Dr Pugliese 1800 247 223 or Angela on 040 9238 119.

Unlike other peels that only work on the surface, 2B Bio-Peel activates the exfoliation process from within the skin.

The therapist is in full control of the peel and can individualise the peel to her diverse client needs.

An advanced treatment with immediate results for all skin conditions from Anti-Ageing needs, Pigmentation and Acne.

The 2B Bio-Beauty Skin Care is active and effective, niche and affordable.

Patou Aesthetics Distribution Ph: 07 4057 8365 Mobile: 0419 665 383 Email: patriciamangano@hotmail.com Web: www.patou.com.au

Soothe Aches, Relax Muscles and Relieve Dry Skin Conditions Elektra Magnesium Cream (ZestCitrus Fragrance) is our latest in magnesium body care products, and a variation to our original 'herbal' fragrance Magnesium Cream.

The Zest-Citrus version is now TGA listed as a therapeutic product (AUST L 183096).

A special blend of emollient hydrating plant oils infused with magnesium, it will help to normalise the skin barrier and assist with transdermal magnesium absorption. Apply all over the body as a moisturiser or massage cream for a healthy complexion and to help relieve dry, itchy or inflamed skin, acne, stress, anxiety, nervous tension, cramps, sore muscles and joints.

Elektra Magnesium wholesale enquiries 07 55331088 www.elektralife.com

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APJ 93

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Customised Formulations and the Benefits they offer

By Jai Harvey-Yin

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The skin being a live organ is never static – it changes and responds to both external and internal factors. This is why the practice of customising a formulation is gaining great favour with skin therapists and clients alike. Here Jai Harvey-Yin, director of Bioelements, shares with us a little about the principle of customisation and how it works.

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Q1. Can you tell us what are the advantages of customised formulas and what does that mean in terms of what is available through your Bioelements' formulations?

With Bioelements we really do have the best of both worlds; we have tried and tested products with formulas that were created to really give results, PLUS we have the ability to then add our expertise and knowledge to further tailor the range to our customers’ concerns utilising our lab. This is true customisation – our lab contains three cosmeceuticals, six organic botanical and mineral extracts and three aromatherapy blends, this allows the therapist to customise to the exacting needs of the client as they present at the time of the consultation as well as take into consideration what the client values the most. For example, if a super savvy client is concerned with ingredient technology and results based products, we can customise using our cosmeceuticals and botanicals; or if we have an earthmother client who really embraces all things natural we can address her concerns with our botanicals and aromatherapy blends. You now have a choice that can lead to client satisfaction.

Many people feel resistant to custom-blending as they think it will be difficult or time consuming, but it is neither. It really does put the control back in the therapist's hands and clients appreciate the fact that we are making a product that is "just for them" that addresses their specific concerns. I love the fact that once you find a base that works for your client, over time her concerns may change, and you can still use the base cream that she likes, but change the lab ingredients to address her new concerns. The other factor is that we utilise the lab ingredients during the facial treatment – and then send the client home with the same or similar recipe we have used during her professional skincare treatment. Clients love that too.

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Let me give you an example, traditionally, oily sensitive skins are difficult to treat. Not with Bioelements! So we have performed our professional treatment, and learnt that Mary, our client, has concerns of oiliness, dehydration, sensitivity and ageing skin. First we choose the best homecare moisturiser for Mary. In this case I would choose Absolute Moisture. Its hyaluronic acid base as well as time-releasing hydrators means that her skin will feel hydrated all day long without feeling like she has anything on her skin, something that many oilier skin types prefer, and therefore don't moisturise, leading to dehydration of the skin. So I will aim to address her dehydration with the application of the actual cream, but will check in with her next time if it was enough once her skin has balanced. Next I address the overproduction of oil — we will use from our lab, Oil Control Concentrate (which contains cosmeceutical ingredients such as Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, which helps reduce the sebum production as well as inhibiting the growth of p-acne bacteria, plus has antiinflammatory ingredients as well). Next the sensitivity — depending on the type, we have two options, but in this case I've chosen from our lab, Soothing Concentrate (a calming botanical with extracts of calendula and linden). If needed, we can also address the anti-ageing concerns. We have several options for this depending on the specific concern (e.g. for pigmentation I may choose Vitamin C, or for fine lines and wrinkles the Anti-Aging Additive, or simply might choose our Firming Botanical). Next time I see this client I may vary her

formula depending on the presented conditions. It is simple to implement, but the results are amazing when you have the flexibility to customise your client's formula. Furthermore, it is appreciated as being a more professional approach that your client will keep coming back to you for.

Q2. From your experience can you give us the most important deficiency in the skin that needs to be corrected first and why?

In one word — dehydration. This is so simple, yet so common, and not always addressed first. Think of a sponge. You may think that a dry sponge was more absorbent, perhaps yes, but only on a surface level, but if you dampen the sponge, it will become more absorbent at a deeper level. This also happens with the skin. If you have a tight, dehydrated skin you need to spend your quality ingredients hydrating the outermost skin cells first. If this is not corrected then it will act as a barrier to deeper absorption. Our recommendation is to spritz the skin with a quality tonic and this prepares the skin to receive ingredients at a deeper level. Exfoliation, of course, further enhances this absorption, by removing the outermost layers of the Stratum Corneum, making the absorption of your active ingredients even more effective. I'd like to say that it is essential in healthy skincare (in so many ways), but you asked what needs to be corrected first.

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Q3. What peptides formulations do you have, which peptides do you use and what is their role in the skin?

Peptides are really a wonderful thing, and we have been using peptides for quite some time in our formulations – Acetyl Hexapeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide and Palmitoyl Oligopeptide.

We know that in natural skincare physiology peptides are precursors to collagen production that may show benefit in improving fine lines and wrinkles with use over time. Peptides applied topically are also excellent binders of moisture, and have softening and firming properties. Two of our most popular products from our anti-ageing range contain these peptides, and we are delighted to say we have raving fans of these because of the results they give.

I have a dear friend who says very flamboyantly that Power Peptide (our anti-ageing tonic) is a "facelift in a spritz" and couldn't live without it! His recommendation is one of many and this product really helps improve the condition of the skin, as the peptides, combined with brightening ingredients as Ergothioneine and Licorice Root, make this product really a great addition to an antiageing regime.

Our best-selling and signature product is our Sleepwear – it also is supercharged with various peptides and the results can usually be seen in just one sleep. The peptides used in this formulation also contain antioxidant and photo-protecting Vitamin E. Combined with other anti-ageing ingredients such as Topical Calcium (which inhibit the action of damaging MMPs – matrix metallo-proteinases that cause sagging and wrinkles), Cranberry Seed Oil (which is "super Vitamin E") and Retinol (helps to repair cellular damage, improve the barrier function and smooths out the skin surface), this product really sets to work while you sleep.

Q4. Do you believe that advanced technologies in formulations can sit well side-by-side with natural botanicals and how do they complement each other?

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This is a tricky question, and I could write an essay on it. These days, people want it all, and often don't even realise why they want it! I believe that you can't go past QUALITY basics first then worry about advanced technologies. All of my clients need to have quality basics first – Bioelements offers a great range of products that combine natural ingredients such as our Adaptagen blend of Chinese herbs, which is present in many of our formulations, essential oils, and quality hydrators like Hyaluronic Acid, Dimethicone or Shea Butter. Saying you blend nature and science is a bit of a catch phrase nowadays, and technically all natural products are also chemical, but the key factor is that they work.

The thing I appreciate about Bioelements is that we can deliver what we promise. Our lab contains advanced cosmeceuticals and botanicals and they work side-by-side.

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A perfect example is one of our latest release products, Advanced VitaMineral C Complex – we found that the Acerola Cherry has 32 times more Vitamin C than oranges – so that is one of the sources of our Vitamin C; but when formulating, Bioelements also looked to the lab and found a cosmeceutical-grade Vitamin C that would further enhance the formulation and added that too. We know that Vitamin work better with minerals, and the skin is often lacking in trace minerals, so these were added to the formula to aid in the effectiveness of the Vitamin C and the formula as a whole. The result this product can deliver has the best of both worlds and visible improvement to the condition of the skin follow.

For further details contact ABSOLUTE SPA 1300 262 275

Well, Hello… Sunshine!

Introducing Pure Inventions D3+

Vitamin D is one of the most important vitamins in supporting the immune system, bone integrity as well as the health of the skin. D-3 (cholecalciferol) is considered the safest and most effective form of Vitamin D supplementation because it is typically extracted from fish oil or food sources.

D-3 matches what is produced within human skin, and is much more efficiently converted by the liver to support circulating active levels of 25-hydroxyvitamin D.

PURE INVESTIONS' D3+ is an all-natural, fully standarised Vitamin D3 supplement in liquid form with the added benefit of green tea. As a liquid, D3+ it has the added benefit in that it is more bioavailable when consumed. This formulation offers: ! Each serving contains 1000 IUs of Vitamin D3 ! Naturally flavoured with Valencia orange ! Natural sweetened with Lo Han fruit and Stevia leaf ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Natural sunlight helps our body manufacture Vitamin D3, and health experts recommend getting at least 20 minutes sun exposure daily with at least 40% of our surface skin exposed, but that's not always possible.

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With PURE INVENTIONS D3+ you can achieve effective supplementation for a healthier skin and body.

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For this and other PURE INVENTION nutritional dietary drinks phone Absolute Spa 1300 262 285

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to Alzheimer's disease, osteoporosis, immune dysfunction, imbalance of digestive flora and yeast infections, depression, skin conditions and attention deficit disorder.

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Australians are heavily addicted to sugar, hitting up on more than 24 teaspoons every day. This can be hidden in many foods that we may not be aware of — salad dressing, tinned food, cereals, etc. At an average of 44 kg of sugar per year, Australia's sugar consumption is thought to be the highest in the world, with European countries consuming 40 kg per year and the USA 33 kg per year.

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The Sweet Life

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The Australian sugar industry produces 4.6 million tonnes of raw sugar annually and is thought to use about one million tonnes domestically.

Weighing up Sugar and its Alternatives

By Tina Viney

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HOW DOES SUGAR AFFECT THE SKIN?

For years the sworn enemy of dentists and When advising our clients on skin health and weight management it is often not the fats that are causing dieters, now sugar has most of the concerns, but sugar. This article attempts to present some compelling information that as another black mark to aesthetic therapists we need to be made aware of. The research is there for us to become correctly informed, add to its list. Shocking not only on minimising sugar, but more importantly to identify what are the safest alternatives we should be new research published in The Journal of the turning to.

American College of Sweetness is one of the pleasures of life — chocolate, ice cream, Nutrition has shown that it can also cause skin ageing. And this is cupcakes and a piece of cake with a cappuccino is most women's when we, as aestheticians, need to take notice. “A diet too high in definition of pleasure and enjoyment. While sugar is pleasant to the sugar or simple carbohydrates may have a negative effect on how the tastebuds, overindulgence can contribute to health concerns, not to skin looks and how rapid it will age,” warns Dr David Orentreich, a mention skin ageing. leading US dermatologist and adviser to a major skincare company.

Recent studies have found sugar is an addictive substance and poses serious dangers of long-term poor health and even death. Sugar affects opioids and dopamine in the brain and has an addictive potential.

Additionally, diets high in sugar have been linked to obesity as well as many other chronic and life-threatening conditions.

A 2011 study by the Endocrine Society's Journal of Clinical Endocrinology & Metabolism (JCEM) found people who consumed high sugar diets for just two weeks had already increased their cholesterol and triglycerides. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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This study shows that consuming a diet of one-quarter sugar can have sudden and startling impacts on health. It's frightening to think what a lifetime of sugar addiction can do to our bodies

HOW SUGAR AFFECTS THE ARTERIES Sugar is like glass scraping the insides of our blood vessels and making holes. As the blood vessels heal, they form scabs like anywhere else in your body. This scab (arthrosclerosis) can then break off and may cause a heart attack or stroke, which is why a diabetic will most likely die from a heart attack. Diets high in sugar are also linked

Apparently the adverse effect is due to the fact that sugar attaches itself to proteins in the body and can cause them to become brittle, ageing faster than normal. “The more sugar you have in your body, the more you force this chemical reaction to take place. This may be detrimental to the skin, which is made up of structural proteins like elastin and collagen fibres that are responsible for the youthful appearance of the skin,” explains Dr Orentreich. Given that these protein fibres are paramount to keeping skin subtle and strong, the implications for ageing are obvious.

Research is now discovering that when the body is exposed to too much sugar the waste product called advanced glycosylation end product — aptly called AGE is produced. As levels of this molecule rise, the fibres in the skin start to stiffen and lose elasticity. Levels of AGE increase naturally over time as one gets older, but research has shown that a diet high in sugar can cause levels to rise in people as young as in their 30s and even in their 20s. For baby boomers in their 50s and 60s the effects are even more severe as the normal ageing process is starting to manifest on the skin. At this point it does not need degenerative assistance through further hardening of the collagen and elastin fibres that contribute to wrinkles and sagging skin.

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ARTIFICIAL SWEETENERS In an attempt to lose weight or minimise kilojoules in our diet the use of artificial sweeteners are often recommended. However, though we have evidence of the harmful effects of consuming regular sugar there was insufficient evidence of the long-term use of artificial sweeteners.

Due to their prolific use a number of studies have been conducted in recent years to investigate their effect on human health.

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In 2005, the European Ramazzini Foundation published important experimental data demonstrating the carcinogenesis of aspartame.

These data demonstrated for the first time that aspartame is a carcinogenic agent, inducing various types of malignant tumours in rats, even at dose levels currently considered acceptable for humans.

Aspartame (also known as Nutra-Sweet or Equal) is an artificial sweetener consumed by hundreds of millions of people worldwide. It is used in over 6,000 diet products, including soft drinks, chewing gum, candy, desserts and yoghurt as w e l l a s i n pharmaceuticals, in particular, syrups and antibiotics for children.

Following evidence of carcinogenic effects were perceived during this first study, the ERF began a second long-term experiment, administering aspartame at low doses in feed to rats beginning during foetal life.

Further studies have linked aspartame to high rates of lymphomas, leukaemia and other cancers in rats. The rats, were given the equivalent of four to five diet cans a day for a human.

The carcinogenic effect of aspartame was found at levels as low as 400 parts per million, or about 20 milligrams a day for humans.

These levels are far less than current daily limits in America (50 milligrams) and the UK (40 milligrams). When the initial findings were released they were met with criticism from artificial sweetener trade groups, and support from groups critical of aspartame.

No government regulatory agency has yet acted on the findings; there have been calls for a ban in Britain, and the European Food Safety Authority has begun a review of the study's results. United States FDA officials have said that they also intend to conduct a review. Likewise in Australia, while it was investigated no final outcomes have achieved any regulatory position.

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Further studies have now also confirmed that consuming a lot of aspartame may inhibit the ability of enzymes in your brain to function normally, according to a new review by scientists from the University of Pretoria and the University of Limpopo. The review found that high doses of the sweetener may lead to neurodegeneration. It has also previously been found that aspartame consumption can cause neurological and behavioural disturbances in sensitive individuals.

levels of aspartame, including: ! The metabolism of amino acids ! Protein structure and metabolism ! The integrity of nucleic acids ! Neurological function ! Endocrine balances

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In 1991, the National Institutes of Health in the US listed 167 symptoms and reasons to avoid the use of aspartame, but today it remains a multi-million- dollar business. Known to erode intelligence and affect short-term memory, the components of this toxic sweetener may lead to a wide variety of ailments including: ! Brain defects as well as brain tumours ! Emotional disorders like depression and anxiety attacks ! Migraines ! Blurred vision and other eye problems ! Epilepsy/seizures ! Ringing in the ears and even hearing loss ! Digestive disturbances ! Numbness ! Chronic Fatigue ! Diabetes ! Parkinson's disease ! Alzheimer's disease

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The reason for many of these risks is that the breakdown of aspartame causes nerves to fire excessively, which can indirectly lead to a high rate of neuron depolarisation. The phenylalanine in aspartame dissociates from the ester bond and

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Snap-8TM and InylineTM, it will tighten and firm the deeper layers of the skin for an optimal antiageing effect. MYO-CYTE PLUS also containing hyaluronic acid, anti-oxidants, amino acids and Passion Flower Extract for their added antiinflammatory benefits to restore skin vibrancy.

Myo-Cyte Plus Anti-Wrinkle Serum is formulated for Circadia by Dr Pugliese.

For this and other leading clinically-strength and scientifically-proven formulations contact Circadia – phone Angela Cannizzaro

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on 0409 238 119.

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Specifically, the review found a number of direct and indirect changes that occur in your brain as a result of high consumption

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Unfortunately refined sugar creates havoc within our bodies and like anything refined, it is highly addictive. Once refined, sugar is no longer a food, it is a drug. And today, most of the Western world is addicted.

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Here's a list of the alternatives. It is important to remember that all sugar substitutes — natural or artificial — have positive and negative attributes. Most still have some glycemic effect and do add to your caloric intake, so it's always wise to sweeten in moderation.

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ORGANIC HONEY that hasn't been pasteurised, clarified or

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filtered is the most eco-friendly sweetener. It is raw, unprocessed, minimally packaged, and, wherever possible, is sourced locally.

STEVIA is a South American herb that has been used as a

increases dopamine levels in your brain. This can lead to symptoms of depression because it distorts the serotonin/dopamine balance, and can also contribute through a similar mechanism to migraine headaches and brain tumours.

Additionally, the aspartic acid in aspartame is a well-documented excitotoxin. Excitotoxins are usually amino acids, such as glutamate and aspartate. These special amino acids cause particular brain cells to become excessively excited, to the point they will quickly die.

Excitotoxins can also cause a loss of brain synapses and connecting fibres. As a continuation the ester bond in aspartame is broken down to formaldehyde and methanol, leading to further toxicity.

WEIGHT- LOSS AND ARTIFICIAL SWEETENERS Despite their low kilojoules, drinking diet soft drinks has now been proven counter-productive as they can contribute to increasing your obesity risk through their adverse effect on digestion and increasing appetite.

Disregarding these growing concerns, neither the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) or the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) have changed their guidelines regarding the safety of the ingredient or intake advice.

Studies confirm that our body does not function well with excessive use of regular sugar, but does even worse with its synthetic counterparts such as aspartame, which is currently found in over 9,000 food products. One more reason to check the ingredient listing on foods you purchase.

ALTERNATIVE SWEETENERS ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Historically, sugar was made by pressing the juice from cane and boiling away the water. The product retained its critical vitamins, minerals and trace nutrients. With industrialisation came processed refined sugar, made by dividing the cane juice into two substances; ultra-refined pure sucrose and nutrient-dense molasses, which was fed to animals.

The sucrose portion is easily dried, stores for longer, pours easier and transports easier, making it more economical in terms of human labour and wastage. Modern manufacture of sugar from cane juice also employs a potpourri of chemicals such as sulphur dioxide, lime, phosphoric acid, bleaching agents and viscosity reducers.

sweetener by the Guarani Indians of Paraguay for hundreds of years. The body does not metabolise the sweet glycosides from the Stevia leaf or any of its processed forms so there is no caloric intake. Stevia doesn't adversely affect blood glucose levels and may be used freely by diabetics. Stevia is also being used as an aid to weight loss and weight management, since it contains zero calories. It is ideal for children as it prevents tooth decay and cavities. It does not taste exactly like sugar, but has a slightly different taste that most people adjust to easily. The whole leaf can have a slightly bitter or liquorice aftertaste, but some people prefer this taste.

Stevia is extremely sweet and must be used modestly. The biggest problem people face when switching to stevia is that they use too much of it and find it intensely sweet, which ruins the overall flavour, so use sparingly at all times. It is heat-stable and can be used in almost any way ordinary sugar is used. To sweeten drinks or baked goods or sprinkled over cereals. As it is much sweeter than sugar, you will need some trial and error to get the quantities right. Stevia leaf is about 30 times sweeter than sugar and refined Stevia crystals are 200-300 times as sweet as sugar.

NATVIA is an all-natural sweetener that actually tastes like sugar and can be used in your beverages such as coffee or tea or used in cooking when baking cakes or preparing desserts. Made from the young leaves of the stevia plant it is blended with natural fruit nectars and tastes better than stevia. Natvia is a healthy, natural alternative to sugar and artificial sweeteners. It has 95% fewer calories than sugar and has a low GI.

COCONUT PALM SUGAR is a traditional sweetener in South-East Asia and India. The collected flower nectars are kettle-boiled into thick syrup, then dried and ground to produce a grainy, crumbly sugar that's organic, unbleached, contains amino acids, B vitamins and minerals (potassium, magnesium, zinc and iron), and has a low glycemic index. Palms grow in diverse agro-ecosystems which support wildlife habitats, restore damaged soils and require little water. Per acre, coconut palms produce 50-75% more sugar than sugar cane plantations, and use less than 1/5th of the nutrients for that production.

YACÓN is related to the sunflower and native to the Andes. Its crisp, sweet tuberous roots have long been eaten by the Incas of Peru and Bolivia. The syrup is made by juicing the tubers, then concentrating the liquid by boiling. Because the Yacón's sweetness comes chiefly from fructo-oligosaccharides, compounds the human body doesn't absorb, the syrup is a low-calorie, low-glycemic sweetener.

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RICE SYRUP is a natural sweetener that is made from cooked rice, which is specially fermented to turn the starches in the rice into sugars. The thick, sweet syrup can be used like honey, molasses and other liquid sweeteners, and with some planning it can also replace granulated sugar. When using rice syrup to replace other liquid sugars, it can be used as a cup-for-cup replacement. The sweetener tends to be less sweet than many other sugars, and it has a faintly nutty flavour.

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XYLITOL is a 100% natural sweetener (in my opinion the nicest tasting alternative) that tastes just as sweet as sugar, but has 40% less calories (2.4 calories per gram versus 4 for sugar). Derived from plants such as corn cobs and birch trees, and brightly coloured fruits like strawberries, raspberries and plums, this all-natural nutritive sweetener provides your body with a safe source of energy that doesn't have side-effects. In its crystalline form, it can replace sugar in cooking, baking, as a sweetener for beverages or sprinkled over cereals. Xylitol is used in chewing gum, mints and hygiene products, such as nasal and mouth washes, because it inhibits bacteria. It produces neither the insulin spike of sugar nor the aftertaste of artificial sweeteners like aspartame. Xylitol metabolises inside the body without using insulin, making it the perfect choice for people looking to safely reintroduce sweets into their diets. Because Xylitol and sugar react similarly to heat, Xylitol can substitute for sugar in cooking and baking on essentially a oneto-one ratio. But experts recommend starting with a smaller amount of Xylitol and adjusting to taste.

BARLEY MALT SYRUP is a natural sweetener made by malting barley grains. During the malting process, the grains produce maltose, a unique type of sugar. The sweetener has a unique flavour and a distinctive rich, dark colour. It is used in cooking and baking, and the substance is also used in the production of beer. As a sweetener, barley malt syrup is about half as sweet as conventional sugar and it has a malt, molasses-like flavour. Because the sugars in barley malt syrup are very complex, they are also slowly broken down by the body. This means that barley malt syrup will not cause a “sugar high” like refined sugar does, since it releases slowly.

Barley malt syrup can be used alone in cooking, or it can be combined with other sweeteners.

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AGAVE SYRUP comes from the sap of the Agave Tequilana plant, whose flowers, leaves, stalks and sap are edible. The Aztecs in Mexico boiled this juice into a traditional sweetener. Agave syrup (also called nectar) is a healthy alternative to sugar — raw, 100% natural, with a low glycemic index.

PEAR AND APPLE JUICE CONCENTRATE – the naturally high sugar content of pears and apples is useful as a natural sweetener.

Concentrating the juice by evaporation retains the natural sugars and minerals. The concentrates are approximately one-third lower in calories than refined sugar by weight. As a substitute in cooking with sugar, half a cup of juice concentrate will be equal to around one cup of sugar, but the added moisture needs to be factored in when baking.

MAPLE SYRUP is a viscous sweetener derived from maple tree sap. Many people use it in baking in place of sugar or other sweeteners, some use it in tea instead of honey, and it is frequently used as a topping for pancakes, waffles and other breakfast foods.

Since true maple syrup is rather expensive, a wide range of imitation syrups exist, containing little or no actual maple syrup, and that is immediately evident in the flavour — so wherever possible choose pure organic maple syrup.

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FRUCTOSE SUGAR – almost all foods contain natural fructose sugar, which has one of the lowest glycemic indexes of any food — with a rating of only 20, compared to 31 for skim milk, 59 for sucrose (ordinary table sugar). It is believed to be the sweetest of the naturally occurring sugars and for some the flavour is sometimes too intense.

RAPADURA SUGAR (also known as Muscovado) is the only sweetener made from sugar cane that is not refined. The cane is squeezed, evaporated, then ground — that's it. The juice is not separated, dried and then reunited with its more nutritious counterpart (molasses) in artificial proportions as are raw, brown and black sugar and Demerara. Rapadura is processed naturally, free from any harmful chemicals such as phosphoric acid, formic acid, sulphur dioxide, preservatives, or any flocculants, surfactants, bleaching agents or viscosity modifiers. It's more a food than a sweetener and contains the natural goodness of minerals and vitamins inherently present in sugarcane juice, and this crowns it as one of the most wholesome and healthy sugars in the world.

IN SUMMARY While we all love a sweet treat there are now numerous alternatives that can allow us to not feel deprived. Knowing the safe options can help us avoid needless harm to our health.

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REFERENCES

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European Journal of Clinical Nutrition 2008, 62, 451462 Environmental Health Perspectives March 2006; 114(3): 379-385 Www.mercola.com/forms/sweet_misery.htm http://www.sugaraustralia.com.au/About.aspx http://www.abs.gov.au/AUSSTATS/abs@.nsf/0/123FCDBF086C4DA ACA2568A90013939A?OpenDocument

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adrenals, lungs, muscles and heart. The adipose tissue releases the vitamin E slowly, while the liver turns it over rapidly. As a result, the amount of vitamin E in the liver can be used as a measure of vitamin E dietary intake. The reader should note that any disorder of the pancreas or the bowel can markedly decrease the vitamin E absorption. Vitamin E is excreted mainly via the bowel or the kidneys.

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FREE RADICALS AND ANTIOXIDANTS

The principal function of vitamin E is to protect cell membranes from oxidative damage to the unsaturated fatty acids within the phospholipid bilayer of the cell. Free radical chemistry occurs in three stages: ! Initiation ! Propagation ! Termination

Physiological Effects of Vitamin E and its Benefits to the Skin

By Tina Viney Sometimes in life you have great and exciting experiences, one of which is discovering new things. It's like opening a door to a new house and walking down a hallway only to find many more doors that open to wondrous rooms filled with beautiful things of all types. Vitamin E is such a discovery, and after 80 years, only parts of its function are beginning to be understood.

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The absorption of vitamin E occurs in the small intestine with other lipids where it is acted on by enzymes called esterases and bile acid.

Vitamin E is then absorbed into the intestinal wall, called the mucosa, and along with other lipids forms little lipid spheres called micelles, in which it enters cells known as enterocytes. In the enterocytes, the lipids, including vitamin E, are formed into structures called chylomicrons, which are then transferred from the enterocytes into the lymphatic system. The lymphatic system carries the chylomicrons into the bloodstream, which delivers their contents to individual cells.

After reaching the liver, the vitamin E is combined with the chylomicrons and then bound to a protein known as alpha tocopherol, and this protein is transferred into the cell cytoplasm. From here it is carried to the endoplasmic reticulum and packaged in lipoproteins of the low-density type, or VLDL. The largest amount of vitamin is found in the fatty tissue, although no particular tissue is selected as a storage area. It can be found in the

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Because the cell lives in a watery environment, it will be subjected to highly reactive hydroxyl radicals, OH, which arise from water ions. The double-bond structure of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) within the lipid bi-layer is quick to react with OH radicals. The OH radical reacts with the PUFA to form a compound known as a carbon-centred radical (Lc.) and water, which is called the initiation stage.

The carbon-centred radical will react with molecular oxygen (O2) to form the peroxyl radical (L00.) two oxygen atoms), starting a chain reaction (the propagation stage) because the peroxyl radical extracts hydrogen for other organic compounds, such as PUFAs next-door, leaving a carbon-centred radical. The propagation stage must be terminated in order to stop cellular damage.

Vitamin E is one line of defence against cellular damage and is located within the lipid bi-layer. It is more reactive with OH and L00 than are PUFAs. It is both able to prevent lipid peroxidation at the initiation stage, or terminate the reaction at the propagation state. The termination by vitamin E produces the tocopherol radical, or oxidised vitamin E, which is reduced back to vitamin E by vitamin C and lipoic acid.

ANTIOXIDANT AND ANTI-ARTERIOSCLEROSIS The major function of vitamin E is to protect the integrity of the cell membrane. Vitamin E is located in the cell membrane between the phospholipids. View it as a large hat pin with one end sticking in the cell membrane and the other near the surface of the membrane. In this capacity it acts as an antioxidant, particularly in preventing arterial disease known as arteriosclerosis. Vitamin E is regenerated by vitamin C and other compounds.

The anti-arteriogenic activity of vitamin E is due to the inhibition of the oxidation of LDL in the arterial wall. These oxidised LDL are able to induce apoptosis, also known as cell death, in human endothelial cells. This is an early but key step in arteriogenesis, because it is the start of a number of events leading to the formation of arteriosclerotic plaque.

Further, vitamin E inhibits protein kinase C (PKC), which is an enzyme that causes proliferative activity in cells. In blood vessels, PKC causes smooth muscle-cell proliferation, therefore by inhibition of PKC, vitamin E inhibits smooth muscle-cell proliferation, thus helping to prevent arteriosclerosis.

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ANTITHROMBOTIC AND ANTICOAGULANT ACTIVITY An additional major role of vitamin E is to control the coagulation of blood, which occurs stepwise. Vitamin E's antithrombotic and anticoagulant activities are quite complex because they involve the regulation of cellular activities. One function to control clotting is the down regulation of the factor responsible for intracellular cell adhesion, and the molecule that causes vascular cell adhesion. When these molecules are lower, the adhesion of blood components to the endothelium, or lining of the blood vessels, is reduced.

A second function in preventing clotting is the up regulation of cytosolic phospholipase A2 and cyclooxygenase, which are two substances that release prostacyclin, a vasodilating factor and inhibitor of platelet aggregation. Platelets are needed in blood coagulation (aspirin also reduces platelet aggregation), and, along with this function, vitamin E decreases plasma production of thrombin, a protein that binds to platelets and induces aggregation.

IMMUNOMODULATORY AND ANTIVIRAL EFFECTS NEURO-PROTECTIVE ACTIVITY The neuro-protective effects of vitamin E are most likely due to its antioxidant effects. Nervous tissue, being a lipid-covered structure and subjected to lipid peroxidation, can easily be a victim of oxidative stress. Vitamin E, being lipid-soluble, can protect against oxidative stress in the nervous system. Vitamin E has been observed to be an antioxidant in tissue-cultured cells. Using the T lymphocyte as a model cell and the increase in mitosis as a response, alpha tocopherol produced an increase in the number of T lymphocytes in aged mice.

The T lymphocyte is an important component of the immune system.

The mechanism of this mitotic activity makes it apparent that it is produced by vitamin E. It is possible that the antiviral effects of vitamin E against HIV-1 are related to an antioxidant activity, since Vitamin E is known to counteract the biological stress from oxidation, and oxidation is known to contribute to the pathogenesis of HIV-1 viral infections.

One theory is that since vitamin E helps to control the integrity and fluidity of the cell membrane, it is possible that by altering the membrane fluidity of HIV-1, virus 1 is not able to bind to cell-receptor sites. Cell infection in most viruses requires that they bind to some part of the cell, and then enter the cell to place their DNA, or RNA, in the cell nucleus. If they cannot do this, the infectivity of the virus is markedly reduced.

You should be aware of this process because it involves the tocotrienols and a major pathway to tumorogenesis. Very little is known about tocotrienols, but a recent research article investigated the role a tocotrienol had on the NF-kB pathway. Their results showed that tocotrienol completely abolished NF-kB activation, while a similar dose of a tocopherol was noted to have no effect. Their results show that tocotrienol suppressed the NF-kB activated by a variety of stimuli, suggesting that it acts at a step common to all these activators, but equally important, they found that a tocotrienol blocked the activation of NF-kB without directly interfering with the DNA binding of NF-kB. This is very important since NF-kB is critical to many normal body-defence functions.

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BENEFITS OF VITAMIN E IN SKINCARE When looking at a label of any skincare cosmetic, you will not find the word "vitamin E" on such a label, as international cosmetic labelling prohibits the use of the word "vitamin" on the label, and the vitamin E will most likely be listed as tocopherol.

Some people still have very nebulous ideas of what vitamin E can achieve in skincare products, but scientific studies show us that it has very specific benefits to the skin: ! It protects the skin from environmental pollution ! It has a protecting action against UV radiation – although it cannot be classed as a sunscreen ! It is an excellent moisturiser ! Preventing excessive cross-linking and DNA degeneration ! It contains anti-inflammatory properties and assists in protecting the skin from premature ageing, as inflammatory conditions in the skin is a leading cause of skin ageing ! It has excellent wound-healing properties Apart from all of these excellent qualities, vitamin E also enhances and helps with the penetration of other compounds into the skin and is itself well absorbed by human skin.

Vitamin E has a natural affinity to the skin, but the amount of vitamin E is reduced in the skin when exposed to sunlight.

Environmental pollutants, as well as oxidative material in the body, cause the formation of “free radicals”, which are unpaired oxygen molecules, that wreak havoc on the cells, and cause extensive damage, which directly results in premature ageing.

VITAMIN E AND NF KAPPA B

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Much of the body's inflammation is mediated by a cellular compound known as nuclear factor kappa B. These proteins are a family of eukaryotic transcription factors that are involved in the control of a large number of normal cellular processes. These include: ! Immune and inflammatory responses ! Developmental processes ! Cellular growth ! Apoptosis

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These transcription factors are very active in a number of disease states, such as cancer, arthritis, chronic inflammation, asthma, neurodegenerative diseases and heart disease.

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APJ 101

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Vitamin E is a very effective antioxidant, chemically mediated by the phenolic OH group of the chromane ring, and helps to remove the formed “free radicals” and thereby ensures that oxidative damage does not occur, by disrupting the chain reaction caused by the free radicals.

VITAMIN E AND SUN DAMAGE TO THE SKIN PREVENT PREMATURE AGEING UV radiation from the sun may be great for getting a tan, and for the body to make its own vitamin D, yet exposure to the rays also cause an array of negative reactions in the skin. The first and most well known in the short term is sunburn (erythema), which leads to degenerative changes within the cell, causing age spots and leading to the loss of elasticity, which in turn will result in dry coarser skin, as well as wrinkles and lines.

glycoproteins found in the extracellular matrix of the skin.

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It is also important to remember that when exposing the skin to the sun the resultant burn or tan is an inflammatory reaction of the skin, and in the quest for achieving a youthful-looking skin it is of prime importance to prevent and to reduce any inflammatory conditions.

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MOISTURISING EFFECT OF VITAMIN E PREVENTS PREMATURE AGEING

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The topical application of vitamin E has also proven to be effective in reducing sun-induced skin wrinkling and has excellent skinmoisturising properties. It also helps prevent trans-epidermal waterloss by the skin and thereby increasing the natural moisture content of the skin and preventing excessive cross-linking and DNA degeneration that can contribute to premature ageing.

Another factor that must be considered with UV radiation from the sun is that it causes the skin to become photosensitive and also causes cancerous growth – starting with actinic keratosis or solar keratosis and then developing further to basal cell and squamous cell cancer, as well as malignant melanoma.

As we age the degeneration of DNA – which carries the blueprint of our cells, can occur, and such damage to the DNA can also result not only in skin problems, but also in premature ageing. It has been shown that topical application of vitamin E also prevents the degeneration of DNA, especially when compromised by photo-damage.

When Vitamin E is applied to the skin, a reduction of erythema, sunburn cells, chronic UV-B-induced skin damage and photocarcinogenesis is experienced, but yet we must stress that it does not have a sunscreen action.

VITAMIN E AND ITS ROLE IN PREVENTING PREMATURE AGEING

Vitamin E has also proven effective in reducing the amount of skintumour formation, but it must be stressed that the prevention of sun damage is still paramount.

Vitamin E is one of the best fat (lipid) based antioxidants around and when included in its natural form in cosmetic products makes the sterling properties of this ingredient available to the skin in topical form.

While there is no absolute protection from the sun, cosmetics and moisturisers containing antioxidants, such as Vitamin E, Vitamin C and Beta-Carotene, can counteract damage to cell membranes, DNA and skin proteins due to oxidation caused by sunlight. These vitamins don't work like sunscreens, but they help minimise the damaging reactions in the skin, especially when used in conjunction with sunscreens. Research confirms that when vitamin E is combined with vitamin C, and applied to the skin, it helps to reduce the formation of sunburn cells and offers good photo-protection.

Other studies have also shown that vitamin E protects the fibroblast in the skin – these are the cells that make collagen, glycosaminoglycans, as well as the elastic fibres and

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Oxidative stress causes free radicals, and if they are not neutralised they cause deterioration of the cells, and resultant ageing. Vitamin E protects the cells and cell membranes from this oxidative stress.

This oxidative stress is also caused by normal cell metabolism, but is exasperated by a variety of environmental factors, including UV radiation, pollution, tanning, smoke, heavy-metals in the environment, etc.

Vitamin E is normally found in the skin, but exposure to sunlight has been shown to deplete this extremely important antioxidant, and topical application of it boosts the availability of it.

To have adequate tocopherol is even more important in mature skin, as the levels of it seems to decrease with age, when it is needed even more to fight the ravages of free radicals, and in so doing, help in the battle against ageing.

VITAMIN E AND WOUND HEALING Several tests have confirmed that a solution containing 5 per cent Vitamin E acetate decreased the healing time required, and also that vitamin E increases the breaking strength of wounds. It is also required for healthy collagen in the skin – which is the support system in the skin and helps the skin to remain firm and healthy.

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Tocopheryl acetate is the ester of tocopherol (q.v.) and acetic acid and is classified as both an ester and heterocyclic compound. It is used as an antioxidant and a miscellaneous skinconditioning agent.

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APJ 102

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Natural Vitamin E due to the processing and quality control required in extracting the Vitamin E from its natural sources.

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To be sure you get the accurate facts about Vitamin E, it should be noted there are other forms of natural Vitamin E such as beta, gamma and delta.

Most of the research has been done on the d-alpha-tocopherol form of Vitamin E.

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NATURAL VITAMIN E SOURCES

Natural foods contain the following amounts of alpha tocopherol.3 Use the relationship of 1 mg of vitamin E equals 1 international unit (IU) of vitamin E. This is d-alpha tocopherol.

Wheatgerm oil Sunflower oil Almond oil Hazelnut Walnut oil Peanut oil Olive oil Peanuts Corn Asparagus Oats Chestnut Coconut Tomatoes Carrots Goat's milk

HOW DO I CHOOSE THE RIGHT VITAMIN E? Vitamin E comes in a natural or synthetic form. Natural Vitamin E seems to be better absorbed in the body than the synthetic form. To separate what is natural from synthetic look for “d-alphatocopherol” on the label for natural Vitamin E. For synthetic Vitamin E you will see “dl-alpha-tocopherol” on the label.

Natural Vitamin E – d-alpha-tocopherol 1mg = 1.5 IU Synthetic Vitamin E – dl-alpha-tocopherol 1mg = 1.0 IU As you can see natural Vitamin E is about 1.5 times more effective than synthetic Vitamin E. You should know that the difference comes with a price difference also. You can expect to pay more for

(215.4 mg/100 g) (55.8 mg/100 g) (39.2 mg/100 g) (26.0 mg/100 g) (20.0 mg/100 g) (17.2 mg/100 g) (12.0 mg/100 g) (9.0 mg/100 g) (2.0 mg/100 g) (1.5 mg/100 g) (1.5 mg/100 g) (1.2 mg/100 g) (1.0 mg/100 g) (0.9 mg/100 g) (0.6 mg/100 g) (0.1 mg/100ml)

Ref: Facts about Vitamin E – Vitamin and Supplement Guide.com Ref: Peter T. Pugliese, MD

NEW HORIZONS’ Canberra 2011 Full Conference Six DVD Box Sets

Now Available KNOWLEDGE IS POWER! If you attended NEW HORIZONS' CONFERENCE in Canberra and would like to review all the sessions here is your chance to purchase the DVDs for you and your staff.

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You can purchase the complete set of six DVDs of the six speakers attractively boxed for just $166 including postage and handling.

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This is an invaluable tool also for those who were not able to attend, giving them the opportunity to gain from the knowledge presented.

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To order please contact APAN on info@apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360 and order your set today.

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APJ 103

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MEN in a

Women’s World The aesthetics and beauty industry is predominantly female driven. So how does a man fit into the business of beauty, and how can he contribute to its success and advancement? APJ presents the views of four men — all of them have been involved in various roles within the beauty industry for at least two decades. Here they share their views and experiences.

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APJ 104

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JULIUS BORBELY Managing Director of Vogue Image Group, the Australian distribution company for Sorisa and Skyndor.

Julius Borbely emigrated from Hungary to Australia in 1987. Shortly after he met and married an expatriate beauty therapist, Luca Mora. Luca owned her own successful beauty salon, but always had a dream to establish her own distribution company and help colleagues become successful through her training and quality products. When an opportunity to purchase Vogue Image Group presented itself Luca and Julius purchased the business, which is based in Victoria and at that time was distributing the Jean Pierre Fluriemont makeup range from Paris.

At first Julius found it difficult to fit in and relate to makeup. With a technical background and experience in electronics, working with equipment was far better suited to him, and so Luca suggested that they research for advanced equipment and trialled different options.

They finally identified the Spanish company Sorisa that was renowned for its quality medical/aesthetics equipment and so they took on the Australian distribution. Further research led them to identify a skincare company — Skyndor — known also for its superior quality and high-end results. And so a dynamic partnership began with Luca being the face of the business and responsible for training and education, while Julius ran the accounting, marketing and the organisational side of the business.

We asked Julius how he related to a predominantly female environment. He thought for a minute and then responded cautiously, “Women are caring and feeling individuals and often it is more difficult for them to make decisions. We have found that if a man is involved in the business he can help provide clarity and consolidate the facts about a purchase. He can bring an objective perspective and influence a business decision to reach a credible outcome.

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“On a personal level working together as a husband and wife team can be both challenging and rewarding. The key is to clarify the roles that each one will undertake. The man can be in charge of negotiations and responsible for gaining the best purchasing deals, managing the finances, paying the bills and undertaking the marketing activities. In such cases regardless of a man's background he can fit very well. If the couple is clear about their strengths and the areas that each will take the lead in then it works well. For us the key is to be accountable to one another, test and measure what works and then come to an agreement through a mutually acceptable decision. Then each party must work the plan to make it happen. For example, we could have a top-of-the-range piece of equipment. Luca can educate the therapist and train her on how to achieve incredible results. The machine is purchased by the therapist and then what? Unless it is properly marketed it just sits there. The device, regardless of how good the technology is, will not sell itself. My role is to assist the salon to market it correctly so their new technology and purchase can start making money for them. I help by providing strategies so that their investment becomes profitable. This support is very important if a distribution company is to be successful.

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“My advice to any man who wants to work with his partner in a beauty business is to accept that her role will always be the “face” of the business and will always have the greater public exposure. The man must accept this and not fight it. Her technical expertise will draw the business. However, the man's role is equally important. His role is to take charge of the day-to-day business activities, running the business

profitably and growing the business so that it can also support and employ staff. If you learn to respect each other's roles and not compete or interfere with each other's areas you can develop a strong and successful business.”

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MICHAEL SPERDER Managing Director, Algologie ㈵

Michael Sperder holds qualifications in Biochemistry and Pharmacy from South Africa. Due to the political situation he emigrated with his family in 1983, being offered a position by a skincare company in Australia. The family established themselves in Perth, Western Australia.

In 1986 he decided to step out with his own distribution company. He examined several formulations and was drawn to Algologie as he was very impressed with the natural and mineral-rich sea-plant base of this product. At the time natural skincare was still not valued the way it is today, so in a sense Algologie was ahead of its time. As a biochemist Michael saw the need to complement the Algologie's French skincare range with the Algologie Fleur de Mar range, which he developed in Australia for two reasons — to provide Australian therapists and their clients with more intensive cosmeceuticals that also included sunblocks — an essential item for Australian skincare needs — and to formulate skincare that could more specifically respond to the needs of the diverse Australian climate.

From a business perspective he believes that women can be as successful as men, and those that are successful can do very well.

However, in the beauty industry this is not the norm across the board.

Michael believes that many women in the beauty industry, while they may be brilliant practitioners, are totally naïve about business and marketing. “We even find many therapists who don't know the difference between an invoice and a statement. This is most unfortunate because it often leads to a business becoming undone, despite the fact that the therapist is well qualified.”

So what about working with family members? Michael was quick to respond. “The first fundamental principle when working with a family member it to ensure that you can also get along in the workplace. For example I have two sons. One son, Terry, is a lawyer, but in working with him I found him totally incompatible. On the other hand with Rafael, we work well together. We trialled him for a few months and found him to be well suited to the beauty industry. We then recommended that he also gained a qualification so that he could understand the technical side of the business, so he completed a CIDESCO qualification. In today's market you can't just sell product, you have to educate so the technical information will need to spill over to the sales side. The days when saying this is a wonderful product without information to back how it will work are long and gone. For our industry education is very much part of the business if it is to grow.

Women are not interested in pushy salespeople. They want to know that if you are selling them skincare that you also have technical knowledge to help them understand the product. ㄰

“Working with women requires that you can relate to them and that you question them to discover what they want. As a formulator I rely a great deal on my reps, who are all women. They help us with feedback from the salons on what they like and dislike and often this varies with State and region. For example, humid climates such as Darwin and Queensland require skincare that is well absorbed and does not leave a residue as the humid climate does not tolerate it. They want lightweight products that do not just sit on the skin, but absorb and also work well.

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APJ 105

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“Consumers today are far more inquisitive before they part with their money. They want to know more about how a product works before they will invest in it. This is why education is so essential.

“The second factor you need to consider when working with a family member is whether they like and are interested in the industry itself. If they don't, it's worthwhile working with them to see if you can come up with a solution. If not, it's inappropriate to accept them as part of the company or a shareholder.

“If family members are working the business together they can't afford to just go through the motions. They need to contribute through innovative ideas and continue to grow their own knowledge and expertise. Rafael now has knowledge that is invaluable to the growth of the business. He doesn't just coast along. On a regular basis he will also join me when I go to overseas conferences. As my passion is in formulations I invest a lot of time and energy in research and development and staying abreast of international trends. I find this very thrilling and rewarding.

Consumers now demand cosmeceuticals, so staying abreast of new developments is very fulfilling for me.

“I am also a strong believer that roles should not overlap. Each individual must have their own area of expertise, and while they may liaise with one another and have shared interests, they must not interfere with their work. This will ensure a happy and productive team.”

LESLIE HOVAN Managing Director, Hovan's Group Leslie Hovan was originally a teacher and a librarian with qualifications from Hungary and later completed another degree at a Sydney university. However, being very creative his career path took him to clothing manufacturing where he developed his own garments. He then ventured into a seafood business in Manly, Sydney, which he successfully ran for seven years. While the business was highly profitable it was very hard work.

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“Working as a husband and wife team in the same business allows both parties to work towards a common goal and this contributes to the longevity of the business that can evolve to greater things,” he confirms. “However, it is important that each is responsible for their designated areas. While the woman focuses on the technical areas, the marketing and running of the business and the business's growth lands within the man's domain. This synergy when run correctly can contribute to a successful business. Together we have enjoyed international travel and have made some incredible friends worldwide. This can also be very rewarding.”

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As his marks were very high he was immediately approached by CIDESCO to become an international examiner for the organisation, which he did for several years. Having entered the aesthetics industry he continued to pursue further studies on an on-going basis, completing several post-graduate courses, including laser, and worked predominantly in Western Hollywood. His position in clinical aesthetics was with a multi-medical holistic practice that incorporated pure dermatology, acupuncture, Chinese medicine and massage.

These were the early days of Botox and ablative CO2 laser treatments, so Terry was able to work across the board with all these modalities.

Terry continued his education and completed further studies in paramedical aesthetics with a hospital in Dallas as his journey into the world of clinical aesthetics continued.

Meanwhile, having met and married Val Glover, who was always involved in the beauty industry, Leslie identified opportunities also within the beauty industry. Originally, he set out to support Val through marketing of her Cosmetic Tattoo practice, but later entered the business full-time and focused on product manufacturing with the first in-grown hair retardant, which he manufactured in the US.

On his return to Australia in 1996 he established Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd, offering his services to several skincare companies and colleges as an educator. In recent years he has been actively involved with Government legislation compliance and has been a lead auditor across several industries for the government sector, having completed his ISO 9000 international certification training.

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Straight out of school Terry Everitt entering nursing and later hospitality, and for a season, worked as a private butler, which took him from New Zealand to the US. However, at the back of his mind he always had an incredible interest in skincare. In deep conversation with a friend one day he was strongly urged to “just do it” and so he enrolled at a college in California and completed a CIDESCO qualification in Aesthetics.

Today he is a regular speaker at many conferences both in Australia and internationally and has been extensively involved in training programs, teaching doctors who wanted to enter Cosmetic Medicine.

As an educator he is also in high demand for educational articles, and over 135 of his articles have been published in various journals and magazines nationally and internationally.

We asked Leslie how he views the beauty industry to other industries.

In his opinion the same principles of business apply to the beauty industry as well. “When you develop a quality niche product you have to face the challenge of the larger established brands that often compete with you on price rather than quality. This is very disappointing because this means that the focus moved away from the wellbeing of the user to just the bank balance.” However, Leslie finds that developing and perfecting a formulation is very exciting and something that he enjoys. As for working in a world that is

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TERRY EVERITT Managing Director, Aesthetic Educators

From there he moved to owning a jewellery business where he designed and manufactured gold jewellery and also imported quality Swiss watches. He them embarked on purchasing two hotels, one in the Hunter Valley and one on The Rocks in Sydney. While these were profitable businesses they were very demanding.

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predominantly women he finds that refreshing and pleasant.

With regards to the beauty industry Terry acknowledges that it is strongly female-gender dominated and quite reversed to most other industries. From an academic and objective perspective he recognises that the industry works despite itself. “There are very few large enterprises that deliver training,” he says. “The industry predominantly consists of many very small establishments that often work independently of one another. This results in a fragmented industry with the vast majority being apathetic and unaware of major changes happening to the industry.

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APJ 106

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In terms of cosmetics and equipment Terry says he is concerned that there are still negligible government regulations and no requirements for formal qualifications by the government to practise. As a result there are no uniform standards driving qualifications and it is left to industry to self-regulate leading to many entering the industry that should not be there. “Without standards of entry we are also seeing a huge drop out rate. This is due to some looking for just a job without any real passion for their work as a profession.”

“I believe that the work that the aesthetic therapist of the future will undertake will be integrated with other disciplinary healthcare streams such as oncology, burns patients, reconstructive surgery and pediatrics. They will be working in a team-based environment rather than working in isolation as most do now. A university qualification will give them the rigour and depth of knowledge to be able to deliver this level of professional service and care.

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“Progressively we will find that some areas will be able to be covered under healthcare funds as the traditional role of “beauty or enhancement” will move into holistic wellness and anti-ageing as the “new breed” practitioner will be included as part of other healthcare modalities such as nutrition, physiotherapy and anti-ageing physicians. I believe this will become the new and exciting frontier for the industry.”

I asked Terry where he sees education for the aesthetics industry going in the next 10 years. “I believe we will see progressive changes in the industry. Advances in ingredient terminology will require that therapists gain a more scientific understanding of formulations and how they work. We will therefore see tertiary education becoming mainstream, particularly as medical and paramedical sectors start to blend. I believe we will see clinical and spa qualifications at university level. There is no doubt that the industry will continue to be represented by three separate sectors: 1. Beautician – with key services relating to grooming such as waxing, tinting, tanning, etc 2. Beauty Therapists – performing traditional facials and body care 3. Specialist Aesthetic Therapists – specialists in advanced procedures that will require higher education at a degree level.

CONCLUSION

“The rapid changes in more sophisticated skincare ingredients and technology will require that therapists gain a broader and more indepth grounding in physics, chemistry and biochemistry. As products will continue to target deeper cellular levels, skin practitioners will need to understand how both ingredients and technology will impact the whole body and not just the skin. Their depth of knowledge will need to be over and above the current situation.

In a female-driven industry it is good to know that there is a place for both genders. In this article we celebrated the male influence and perspective through the views of some great achievers who were brave enough to find their niche in a world where the average bloke would have possibly felt uncomfortable and alienated. In leaving their mark they have helped shape the female world of beauty with a more complete perspective. We are glad they stuck it out and we are all the better for it.

Currently Terry is involved in the development of a new university qualification for the aesthetics industry, while completing a Masters Degree in Education. His passion is to bring support to the advancement of aesthetics through credible education that will enhance the industry's group and recognition.

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APJ 107

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

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This section presents news and research information relating to skin and anti-ageing discoveries.

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Approval of cell-based assay for testing of Botox by FDA California-based Allergan Inc has had its invitro, cell-based assay for testing the stability and potency of Botox and Botox cosmetic, approved by the FDA. Currently, the FDA as well as other worldwide health organisations requires that all manufacturers protect patients and consumers by guaranteeing product safety and efficacy through animal testing and other methods.

Allergan has claimed that the use of the new assay will reduce the use of animal testing by up to an estimated 95 percent, over the course of the next three years, as it hopes to get more regulatory agencies around the world on board to approve this assay. Allergan's executive vice president Scott Whitcup commented, “Following the FDA approval, we will work hard to secure approval of the

new assay to replace the current animal testing requirements for the release and stability testing of Botox and Botox Cosmetic in countries in which we market and distribute the product.”

Animal testing required

The mouse LD50 potency assay, which is a standard for potency and stability testing of Botox is required by the FDA, the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA) in Europe, and regulatory agencies worldwide, for testing the final product for release to assure its safety and efficacy.

A naturally occurring but potent substance, only a very small amount of purified botulinum neurotoxin is used in Botox as the active ingredient; apparently only 1 gm is needed to supply the entire world.

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Highly sensitive replacement ㈵

Allergan has stated that in order to replace LD50, a suitable potency assay

Despite animal testing being illegal in many parts of the world, and many companies having taken a stand against the practice, Botox is one of the few compounds, which has an animal testing requirement before it can be released to the general public.

Allergan has stated to have made numerous attempts over the years to find strategies to replace the animal based LD50 assay for the testing of botulinum neurotoxins, but has fallen short.

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sensitive enough to measure the complex mode of action of an extremely small amount of the neurotoxin used in Botox in the cellular level was needed. The newly approved assay will be implemented immediately for the product's release for sale in the US.

Wnt signalling found to dictate hair pigmentation A group of researchers at NYU Langone Medical Center have found for the first time, that Wnt signalling between hair follicles and melanocyte stem cells can dictate hair colour and regeneration. ㄰

The Wnt signalling pathway, which is made up of a network of proteins, has been implicated in the control over various types of stem cells and may act as a niche factor to maintain stem cells in a self-renewing state.

The new study into Wnt signalling, already known to control many biological processes was published in the June 11, 2011 issue of the journal Cell, and uncovered the latest information on hair pigmentation.

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APJ 108

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signalling is a key pathway for the regulation of melanocyte stem cells and shows how melanocyte behaviour is associated with hair regeneration.

According to the researchers, this insight provides further understanding of diseases in which melanocytes are either appropriately lost, such as hair greying, or undergo uncontrolled cell growth, as in melanoma.

New discovery "We have known for decades that hair follicle stem cells and pigment-producing melanocycte cells collaborate to produce coloured hair, but the underlying reasons were unknown," said Mayumi Ito, assistant Professor in the Ronald O. Pereleman Department of Dermatology at NYU Langone, who lead the research.

“We discovered Wnt signalling is essential for coordinated actions of these two stem cell lineages and critical for hair pigmentation."

The study suggests the manipulation of Wnt signalling may be a novel strategy for targeting pigmentation such as greying hair.

The research study also illustrates a model for tissue regeneration.

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"The human body has many types of stem cells that have the potential to regenerate other organs," explained Dr. Ito. "The methods behind communication between stem cells of hair and colour during hair replacement may give us important clues to regenerate complex organs containing many different types of cells." Using genetic mouse models, researchers examined how Wnt signalling pathways enabled both hair follicle stem cells and melanocyte stem cells to work together to generate hair growth and produce hair colour. The study also showed the depletion or abnormal Wnt signalling in hair follicle stem cells not only inhibits hair regrowth but also prevents melanocytes stem cell activation required for producing hair colour. Based on this, the study concluded that the lack of Wnt activation in melanocyte stem cells leads to depigmented or gray hair.

The study suggests the possibility that Wnt

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Nu Skin Ageing Research Presented at International Conference – Key Scientists Present on Gene-Based Anti-Ageing Science Nu Skin and its research partner LifeGen Technologies presented their latest research findings on how dietary interventions affect ageing and longevity at the First International Congress on Controversies in Longevity, Health and Ageing (CoLONGY) in Barcelona, Spain. Nu Skin and LifeGen presented research on the identification of

genetic biomarkers of ageing, and how gene expression can be modulated by dietary interventions.

“Nu Skin's ageLOC approach to anti-ageing looks at the level of genetic expression of ageing and is supported by our partnerships with some of the best minds in anti-ageing science, such as our colleagues at LifeGen Technologies,” said Joe Chang, Nu Skin chief scientific officer and executive vice president of product development. “Identifying functional Youth Gene Clusters and understanding how ingredients can target and reset those genes to a more youthful profile helps us develop next-generation skin care and nutritional products.”

The joint research identified robust, tissuespecific panels of transcriptional biomarkers that are relevant to ageing. Studies using whole-genome profiles of gene expression have identified thousands of genes that change activity patterns with age. Nu Skin is currently using these biomarkers in a preclinical study of dietary compounds to determine their ability to impact ageing at the genetic expression level.

This year Nu Skin will introduce ageLOC Vitality, a new dietary supplement to address a key concern of ageing loss of vitality. The new product builds on the research presented at the CoLONGY conference and the company has submitted a patent application for the unique blend of ingredients that have been identified with this technology to support youthful genetic expression of vitality.

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APJ 109

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The value of Establishing your own

MANIFESTO As we attempt to explore means and ways of making a statement and attracting and retaining a loyal clientele that will sustain our financial position, there are two key classifications we need to establish strategies in. Broadly speaking these come under the headings of tangible and intangible.

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LIFE-LONG LEARNING As presented in the statement on Education

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LIFE VALUES Personal values are reflected in the statements on Positive Thoughts, Celebrate Life, Generosity, and Love what you do.

TANGIBLES The tangible areas that we need to develop involve things such as our products and the services we provide, as well as the outcomes we promote. It also involves such things as policies and procedures and our business and marketing procedures that allow us to deliver these targeted outcomes. These structures should be designed to effectively achieve them and the objectives should be specific and measurable.

INTANGIBLES However, there is another all-important area that will attract and retain our clients' loyalty and the elements of this area are classified as intangible. These include aspects of our communication and influence that are less tangible, yet very powerful. Intangibles relate to such things as goodwill, dedication and the establishment of a culture within our business that uniquely expresses who we are, our values and the atmosphere we create for the benefit and comfort of others.

Culture specifically involves the underlying message we want to communicate to our clients. These should include elements of humanity and compassion that communicate appreciation and respect towards other individuals. The issue of culture is a very interesting subject. To fully understand its implications it is useful to study this topic as a humanities subject that will allow you to identify what influences culture and the elements that help you establish it in the workplace. To further help you gain a greater understanding of this fascinating topic we have introduced an article in this issue of APJ entitled Understanding and Creating Culture by Mark Viney on pages 60-64. Mark will explore this subject and provide an on-going study on it in several issues of the journal.

MANIFESTO Another creative tool that allows you to help introduce your culture and values is through the drafting of a Manifesto. A manifesto is a public statement that articulates what you stand for and your values. It is a creative way of reflecting to others what they can expect from you and the foundational values on which you base your activities.

On the following page you will see APAN's MANIFESTO. We have chosen 11 key statements that define our purpose, values, what we stand for, what we want to foster in others and what they can expect by joining as a member of APAN's Community of Practice. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

The image of a tree represents life, strength, growth and stability.

The 11 statements can be broken down into four key groups:

We also suggest that you create one for your staff room that reflects the culture, values and objectives that you as a business wants to foster towards your staff. Include statements that reflect team spirit, respect, appreciation and a positive atmosphere for growth and development.

CODE OF ETHICS Clearly defined standards have a way of contributing to an environment where the workers are confident and not vague. They know how to behave and what is expected of them and more importantly, they understand the purpose behind the rules of conduct and appreciate them. Furthermore, having clear standards through a Code of Ethics leaves no room for misunderstandings as it establishes clearly defined corporate values rather than each staff member giving their own interpretation of acceptable standards that the business needs to operate by.

APAN reviews its Code of Ethics annually to ensure that it adequately reflects the changing need of the industry. It is a document that we are proud of and it is limited to our members only. Once again it covers different categories of conduct such as: ! Practitioner/Client Relations ! Referrals ! Education and Compliance ! Business and Finance Dealings ! Professional Conduct One of the most effective and successful marketing tool that will allow others to respect and trust you is the issue of Standards and Ethics, and trust is key to business growth and client loyalty. As an industry body APAN has placed a great deal of emphasis and much thought in drafting these documents, particularly in light of the fact that the aesthetics industry is relatively unregulated. For this reason APAN's Code aims to bring a measure of standards at the very least to the operations and activities of its members.

COMMUNITY This is represented by the statements on Unity, Network and Partnership.

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In a simple and creative way this document articulates what we stand for. If you would like to download a copy you can find it on APAN's website www.apanetwork.com. We suggest that you use this as an example and perhaps create your own salon's Manifesto for your clients to view. Consider statements that will allow people sitting in your reception are to gain an appreciation of your own philosophy and culture. A wonderful way to achieve this is to ask your staff to come up with recommendation so that the outcome is a combined effort and all staff members take ownership of the statement. It's a wonderful way of creating a bond with your staff as a team.

ETHICAL CONDUCT

If you believe we can assist you in this regards please contact APAN on 07 55930360 or email info@apanetwork.com.

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Reflected in the statements on Integrity, Honesty and Challenges

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APAN’S MANIFESTO

A manifesto is a public statement that articulates what we stand for and our values.

It reflects what others can expect of us and the foundational truths on which we base our activities.

UNITY can achieve more than divisiveness.

Be part of something bigger than yourself

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INTEGRITY is the cornerstone of substance and purpose.

If you have integrity you have confidence.

EDUCATION opens up new horizons.

Invest and embrace in credible learning – it will change your life.

CHALLENGES are there to bring out the best in you.

Stay focused on lessons learnt and move forward with greater resilience.

LOVE WHAT YOU DO, it’s the secret to longevity and fulfilment.

Let your heart and your mind work passionately together.

NETWORK and grow your circle of influence.

Sharing and learning is the key to personal and business growth.

POSITIVE THOUGHTS give birth to creativity and solutions.

Fill your heart with them and they will strengthen you and guide you to a more successful future.

HONESTY exposes error and allows you to correct your ways.

Welcome honesty into your thought life. It will help to navigate you more quickly to where you wish to go.

GENEROSITY keeps you humble and corrects a self-centred focus.

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One person can make a difference if that one person has faith and commitment in the good they can bring to this world.

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CELEBRATE LIFE by choosing good health and wellness options.

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PARTNERSHIP supporting and developing others through strong

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Invest in the best that life has to offer and expect miracles in your life. relationships.

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The Launch of a new WELLNESS FACILITATORS' PROGRAM For Anti-Ageing and Beyond

By Dr Dzung Price

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With summer on its way introducing a slimming and body shaping program to your clients is guaranteed to be a popular service.

But other than investing in topical slimming treatments what additional services can you introduce to complement and even enhance your results? Experts are pointing to the value of wellness and weight loss services and are urging the aesthetics industry to establish these services at a more formal level. By undertaking and introducing a comprehensive Wellness Program with exact and proven protocols will not only contribute to business growth, but also meet the ever-growing consumer interest and needs for effective weight-loss and wellness programs.

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Dzung Price is a holistic integrated medical practitioner who is renowned for not only treating diseases, but also for her highly successful wellness programs that ensure that patients and clients gain the appropriate strategies to maintain health and vibrancy indefinitely in their life. Dr Price believes that beauty and aesthetic therapists are well positioned to assist their clients with appropriately formulated programs to support wellbeing and ultimately weight-loss. She is also a strong advocate that a highly toxic body will struggle to lose weight and that best results can be obtained by first embarking on a wellness and a gentle detoxification program.

AFTER EXTENSIVE CONSULTATION WITH APAN DR PRICE HAS DEVELOPED TWO PROGRAMS: WELLNESS EXPRESS – this program is a coaching, training and mastermind program design to equip and develop Wellness Express Facilitators. The program takes an individual through the program initially as a personal candidate of the program and then gives them the tools to facilitate their clients through the same program. Dr Price believes that you can only foster and assist someone in areas that you have experienced and mastered for yourself. By going through the program for your own benefit you will be empowered to pass on, not just your knowledge, but also your experience for the benefit of others. The key objectives of the Wellness Express program are to help you increase your energy and vitality and learn how to maintain this state in your own life.

BEYOND SLIM – this program is aimed at giving you the tools and proven strategies for successful weight-loss and how to maintain that loss. However, to achieve success it is advisable that you embark on gentle detoxification and assist the body to gain a greater level of balance. It is therefore recommended that you introduce the Wellness Express Program before you or your clients embark on the Beyond Slim Weight-Loss Program. The weigh-loss program will also be underpinned by medical and naturopathic support for the benefit of the facilitators and their clients.

Below Dr Price present information on the Wellness Express Program, its objectives and what is involved.

WELLNESS EXPRESS FACILITATOR’S PROGRAM For 21 years, other than practicing medicine I have also specialised in teaching people how to stay vibrant, youthful, and healthy, and thereby prevent disease. In over 150,000 patient consultations, I have learned that our personal energy level is crucial to our happiness, success, and wellbeing.

Your energy is your most vital resource. Once you become familiar with a simple, key principle, you'll understand the secret behind achieving endless energy and vitality. What might that secret be?

Dynamic, powerful life energies lie dormant within you! They simply need to be activated.

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You can either slow the ageing process or ageing can slow you down.

With the Wellness Express Program you will learn that everyone gets older, but not everyone has to age.

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Let me explain. In this day and age, people associate getting older with slowing down, fatigue, aches and pains and chronic illness. In fact, there is a common misconception that chronic illness and disease, such as arthritis, heart disease, cancer, Alzheimer's, and diabetes are just a natural progression of getting older.

The fact is, fatigue, aches and pains, and chronic illness is not

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inevitable and is not a function of how old you are. It's simply a reflection of your living habits, your hormones, your genesand really the accumulation of a lifetime of toxicity, stress-related and ageing related habits.

The good news is, no matter how old you are, or how unwell you are, you can start on the Wellness Express program today and slow the ageing process, increase your energy, and fend off disease.

YOUR BODY WAS BUILT TO LAST!

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The body is an incredible machine and was built to go the distance with genetic capacity to automatically heal. You can be in your 70's, 80's, and 90's and still be energetic, active, vital, attractive and free of disease. In fact, that is how your body was engineered to naturally function. Therefore, ageing, in the traditional sense of the word, isn't a must. You just need to know the secrets to long-term wellbeing so you can slow the ageing process and sustain a vibrant quality of life.

In thousands upon thousands of patient consultations, I have implemented the antidote to ageing. These coveted protocols integrate the most effective dimension of health, wellness and healing from around the world, and have been developed from extensive clinical experience and refined in nearly 150,000 patient consultations.

The antidote to ageing is pursuing a life of wellness, happiness, and purpose. In terms of wellness, it will come down to your ability to cultivate immune power in accordance to your genetic profile and maintain your body's self-repair mechanisms.

So how do you build a wellness plan that activates immune power, keeps you slim, sustains your body's self-repair mechanisms, and creates a foundation for a happy and purposeful life?

That's what our Wellness Express series is dedicated to. Our program is the antidote to stress-induced, accelerated ageing. Find out for yourself how you can look and feel years younger and promote your overall energy, vitality and wellbeing.

WELLNESS EXPRESS – PLANNING IS THE SECRET At Wellness Express, we have a simple motto when it comes to disease. "The least costly illness is the one that never occurs." We discussed how chronic disease can restrict the quality of our life, and how it is also becoming a drain on our personal finances and national healthcare system. The cost of people with chronic diseases accounts for more than 75% of the nation's medical care costs. It's time we do something about it.

The Wellness Express program will teach you how to look after your wellbeing with a powerful system of wellness planning, just as you would look after your finances with prudent financial planning.

WHAT YOU WILL LEARN Discover for yourself how our Energy Banking system will empower you with the tools and strategies to stay well, regain energy, beauty and vitality and prevent chronic disease. We'll be teaching you a system of Energy Banking that will help you achieve your life goals, based on the following formula:

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Wellbeing = Deposits (Nutrition) Withdrawals (Stress and Toxins) Learn how to maximise your deposits (physical, mental, emotional and nutritional) and minimise your withdrawals (nutritional, mental and emotional stress and toxins), so you can achieve endless energy and the best of health. Alternatively, when your withdrawals outweigh

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your deposits, you can go into “wellness debt”, which eventually leads to fatigue, accelerated ageing, burnout and disease.

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Our Wellness Express Energy Banking system will teach you how to build your wellness income and feed the Four Pillars of Wellness:

1: Develop Immune Power – Learn how to feed your body ㈵

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Construct a high-energy nutritional program around nutrients and super-nutrients, and learn how to avoid anti-nutrients that lead to long term stress, accelerated ageing, and fatigue Learn physical disciplines to revitalise your body, master glands and nervous system Discover the secrets to rejuvenating and restoring your body's self-repair mechanisms

2: Develop Mind Power – Learn how to feed your mind

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Implement the most effective stress management techniques and incorporate powerful mind-body disciplines to energise your life Unleash the power of positive belief systems and cultivate dynamic willpower

3: Develop Mood Power – Learn how to feed your heart Learn strategies and tools to effectively dissolve stress and tension quickly ! Acquire the habits of happiness to feed your heart and become rich in love

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4: Develop Soul Power – Learn how to feed your soul

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Learn effective meditation and de-stressing techniques to generate, magnify and focus your energy Establish inner peace, inner joy and purpose in your life and nourish your soul

Make Time for Wellness!

Enrol in the Wellness Express 1 Program today and harness a system of Energy Banking to empower you with tangible tools and strategies

to naturally increase your energy, slow the ageing process, and prevent disease. By doing so, you will be well on your way to learn the skill sets to teach and empower others to do the same and increase your income at the same time.

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CURRICULUM The Wellness Express 1 Coaching Group is limited to just 18 individuals so you get personalised attention every step of the way.

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Each Member will get complete access to my team (trained by me) who will be personally coaching you, training you and masterminding with you to results. In order for you to be an effective Wellness Express Facilitators for your clients, it is important that you go through the wellness and detoxification journey and understand the process for yourself.

GROUP TIMETABLE The Wellness Express 1 Program runs for eight weeks and includes all of the above aspects of training. The important thing for you to understand is my complete determination that you get fast results. Every aspect of the group has been meticulously designed to make sure this happens for ALL members.

Dzung Price is an holistic integrated medical practitioner with qualifications in Nutrition and Environmental Medicine, Naturopathy, Acupuncture, Bio-energetic Medicine and Homotoxicology. Using this comprehensive array of healing modalities, cutting edge medical technology and self-empowerment solutions, Dr Price works to address the root causes of disease and the lack of wellness in her patients. Working closely with a talented team, her approach is to restore optimal health by removing the obstacles so that the body creates agelessness and wellness in mind, body and spirit through her clinics in Brisbane and on the Gold Coast. She is the co-founder of Beyond Good Health Clinics, and CHI Health Innovations, a company devoted to the provision of bioenergised natural health products for wellness and beauty.

THE WELLNESS

EXPRESS 1

Coaching, Training & Mastermind

You are invited to take part in a unique training program that will transform your life and then allow you to offer the same service for the benefit of your clients' wellbeing as a trained WELLNESS EXPRESS FACILITATOR.

TRAINING OUTCOMES:

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! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Understand the fundamentals to detoxification, wellness and regaining health and energy Get a clear, personalised health roadmap for you to follow Ultimately hit your goals quicker and easier than ever before Learn to integrate wellness with beauty and supercharge your revenues Be able to solve simple health challenges Become an expert in wellness services and become the “go-to” person in your niche Gain the education and skill sets to become a Wellness Express Facilitator Effortlessly add another profit center to your business For further information, an Application Form and a copy of the Official Curriculum and Benefits Report contact: WELLNESS EXPRRESS Ph: 07 5564 7667 or Email: dzungp@BeyondGoodHealth.com

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