APJ Vol 13 2012

AESTHETICS

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

PRACTITIONERS Journal The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Winter Issue Volume 13. 2012

Eradicate acne and enlarge pores with

Winter Issue Volume 13.

by

2012

The process begins now with the new SKEYNDOR super-performers

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APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS

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8-9 44-47 48-51 110-113

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CEO's Heart 2 Heart Report Aesthetic Industry Bulletin Product Innovations Scientific News

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REGULATIONS AND EDUCATION

52-53 64-65

IPL – How to Achieve Safety, Efficacy and Optimal Results The Licensing Debate – Identifying Regulatory Requirements of IPL and Laser

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 16-19

Cleopatra's best-kept Secret – Clays and their medicinal properties 28 The debate on Omega-3 – Do you need all three?

30-34 Biochemical Skin Ageing – Gaining the Scientific Perspective 54-56 Proven Strategies for Healthy Ageing and Longevity 58-61 The Colour Commandments 62 Book Review: The Longevity Factor 74-75 Neroli Essential Oil – Cell regeneration and nerve sedative at its best 76-78 The evidence for Green Peel Herbs 82-84 New Advances in Appearance Enhancement 86-89 Causes and Treatment of Melasma and Hyperpigmentation 90-94 Appearance Enhancement through Detoxification by the Aesthetic Practitioner 96-97 A decadent food that heals – Chocolate 104-105 Proven strategies for preventing overweight and obesity

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 14 20-23

Ask the Expert The rise of Social Media and Internet Marketing and how it will affect your Business 26-27 Keys to successful Business Leadership 36-37 Achieving optimal Retail Sales – Identifying and overcoming the challenges 38-39 You're in Business, so let's make it profitable 40-43 Business in Brief 61 Western Union 66 Member Profile 98-101 From Darwin with Love 102-103 How to grow your business with Facebook – gaining inside tips from the Expert 106-107 Job Satisfaction and a Successful Business 108-109 Personal Property Security Act (PPSA) 114 Offering you greater protection when you travel

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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 68-73 45 80-81

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Australasian Integrative Aesthetics Workshop 2012 International Aesthetic Show Calendar Cosmetex 12 – A Conference Overview

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Editor Tina Viney 07 5593 0360

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Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney

Moving from autumn to winter means that we are entering the colder months. One of the best things you can do for your clients is prepare their skin with extra hydration and support as winter is traditionally the season when skins suffer the most from dehydration.

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

With the on-going stress of economic uncertainty and fluctuating markets, a haven of sanity can be the caring and nurturing environments that we create in our salons, clinics or spas. While stress can accelerate ageing, we are in the business of reversing its effects through our anti-ageing strategies and our advanced skin and body procedures. Successful anti-ageing outcomes are no longer a pipe dream, they are a reality. As mounting scientific evidence is demonstrating there is much we can do to turn back the clock, not only with our appearance enhancement, but more importantly, through a more carefully thought-out program that includes lifestyle issues. This has led to us to access the latest information of this subject, which we are presenting to you in this journal.

Produced for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169 Web: www.apanetwork.com Print Post Approved.

Circulation 6000 Accounts Manager Laraine Coyle accounts@apanetwork.com Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd (APAN) PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt (Education) Wendy Neely (PR & Marketing) Dr Douglas Grose (Scientific) Caroline Nelson (Business) National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-9812

Our research is confirming that more and more salons are taking on a more integrated approach to their anti-ageing procedures and these salons, spas and clinics are experiencing a boom in their business's performance. Clearly, this is what consumers are now looking and asking for.

In this issue of APJ it is all about anti-ageing. We have several articles that address new research findings on the issue of longevity, as well as how to improve your treatment results through appropriate detoxification.

There are updates on conferences that have come and those that are still available for you to attend such as the A5M AustralAsian Integrative & Aesthetics Workshop to be staged on the 19th August.

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As IPL and Laser are being reviewed by the authorities for the purpose of identifying more rigorous regulatory measures, we have included two excellent articles to help prepare you for what will probably lead to the necessary requirements of competencies from those who wish to consider practising this modality.

We have an excellent article on pigmentation that identifies some successful protocols of how to address Melasma and hyperpigmentation in the salon. There are some excellent articles on business to help you boost staff performance and motivate you with necessary strategies to maintain and grow productivity momentum in your business.

The advances of social media are also well presented with some excellent articles, so please check these out and stay up-to-dated on the latest indicators of an industry undergoing an interesting transition.

We trust you will enjoy this issue of APJ and find the information resourceful. Our articles are carefully researched to provide you with the momentum you need to succeed in an everevolving and interesting industry.

Enjoy life!

Our Business in Brief is becoming anything but brief, as new and important information comes to our attention.

http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

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Welcome to APJ

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com Mark Viney Phone: 0412 177 423 Email: apj@apanetwork.com Fax: 07 5593 0367

Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

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All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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SKEYNDOR distributed by VOGUE IMAGE GROUP

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1800 554 545 or 03 9821 0033 ㈵

Email: info@vogueimage.com.au

Please see pages 24-25 for further details

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CEO’s Heart 2 Heart REPORT

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CTITIO NE PRA

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I have several interesting developments to report and trust that some of the information can confirm better days ahead and stimulate hope for you for the future. With so much negativity it is easy for many of us to fall in a heap with battle fatigue, but my intention in this report is to ensure that you don't remain in a place of defeat.

RS

AESTHETIC

Dear Colleagues and Friends

VISORY NE

We judge a man’s wisdom by his hope.

Ralph Waldo Emerson, (1803-1882)

BE VIGILANT AND IMPLEMENT CHANGES It is true that businesses in our industry are still going to the wall on a weekly basis, and some of this has to do with rising rental costs, but a lot has also to do with businesses failing to have a relevant sustainability and growth plan. As we have seen from what is happening in Europe at the moment, austerity measure only lead to desperation, because you also need a plan for growth.

The rules of business are changing and as an industry we are not exempt from what research is telling us. This is not the time to hibernate and think it will pass you by and ignore the signs that point to a need to review your direction and make the necessary changes. If you don't, you will not survive - it's just not going to happen.

Those that are in business today and are surviving are astute and realistic about what needs to go, and what needs to change, and they base that decision on solid, credible information on both business principles as well as shifts in trends within the industry. Time and time again we are seeing those who are prepared to invest in quality industry advice find a way to turn things around.

On a daily basis APAN is assisting businesses to turn the corner through sound, objective expert advice through our consultation services. This is the time to reach out for help and our industry and business intelligence is in place to assist you with valuable information that will help solve some of your problems and get you through difficult times. I am pleased to report that our consultations are having a profound effect on business survival and that makes our efforts and hard work even more rewarding.

REPORTS SHOW SIGNS OF OPTIMISM On a positive note several reports that have hit my desk this week reveal a certain level of optimism particularly in the area of consumer spending for cosmetics. While many may not afford to have their treatments as regularly as they would like, the new figures are showing that consumers are seeking out more specialized anti-ageing products as they are still seeing the value to invest in their personal care, but with a preference for more advanced specialised products.

GLOBAL FORECASTS At this point in time skincare remains the most important category in the global beauty market by far, accounting for 23% value share of total sales according to market research firm Euromonitor International. This means that its success is pivotal to the performance of the industry as a whole.

Growth in the global skincare market grew by 4.5% in 2010 to reach a value of $78,131 million.

Premium skincare, and in particular anti-ageing skincare, is set to see the biggest increase in value size of any premium segment, with $2.6 billion predicted to be added over the 2012-2014 period, equating to 40% of absolute growth in the entire premium beauty industry. This performance will be driven by strong demand, particularly from Asia, while in Australia sales of premium antiageing products have remained comparatively buoyant as consumers have evidently attached greater importance to fighting the ageing process than other areas of beauty.

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What that means is that if a salon is not reviewing and establishing a designated retail section to their business they will be losing sales and potential business. While I am a great supporter of the importance and need for advanced technologies and treatments, merchandising is going to be the new growth frontier for our industry and we are up against some stiff competition from retail stores.

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KNOW YOUR PRODUCT'S COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE

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If you have not completed advanced skin analysis training this is the time to do so. Without it you will not be able to identify and understand key scientific information on the ingredients that can provide you with superior result and a competitive advantage to other anti-ageing products. I cannot emphasise enough how it is now critical to ensure you advance your knowledge on the skin and on the latest developments in cosmetic ingredients and their relevance to treatment outcomes.

If you have not already done so contact Gay Wardle from Masters Dermal Academy and enrol in one of her courses, you will never look back.

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IPL/LASER LEGISLATION REVIEW The time is well overdue for IPL and Laser practitioners to meet a uniform standard of competency and for these modalities to become legislated.

This has been a concern of mine for some time as I hear the horror reports - both through the industry and through the media, where unqualified or poorly trained operators are causing a great deal of damage, not only to the poor clients who are subjected to further skin damage, but also to our reputation.

I am pleased to say that I have been asked and have accepted to be on ARPANSA's* Working Group whose task will be to investigate the evidence that will point to how best to monitor standards of practice and the need for legislation. Rather than having State by State standards this initiative should lead to national standards that can be put in place for all States.

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According to A5M General Manager Helen Anton, “The launch of the Australian Government's National Preventative Health Agency (ANPHA), which comes into full operation in 2012, signals the need for all practitioners to review their approach to servicing clients and to adopt a Preventative approach”.

This is a unique opportunity for aesthetic therapists to gain incredible knowledge and insight from world-renowned experts on the advances that are currently shaping the aesthetics industry. I hope to see many of you there. Please review full details of this event in this journal.

It is now a validated fact that standards and not discounting are the new directives for progress and growth for our industry, and these are trends that are externally-driven by consumers.

I believe that as part of this process a survey will be put out for industry comment and I urge you to contact me if you believe you have evidence or statistics that support the need for legislation. You can write, phone or email me as I would be very interested in hearing from you.

APAN makes every effort to bring you world-class education and credible, unbiased business and industry information for your advancement. Please prioritise to reach out and benefit from it.

ADVANCING YOUR EDUCATION

Committed to your progress

I am also pleased to report that APAN's involvement with the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-ageing Medicine (A5M) is getting stronger. Once again this year we have contributed to putting together an incredible educational program specifically for the aesthetics and spa industry to educate them on new research and advances in antiageing medicine and related units that can directly benefit aesthetic practitioners.

The AustralAsian Integrative & Aesthetics Workshop will be staged once again in Melbourne at the Sofitel on the 19th August 2012. The calibre of this education is second to none and I urge you all to invest in it. What you will learn will amaze you and will open up a whole new scope of possibilities for your salon, clinic or spa.

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Chief Executive Officer

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*Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear SafetyAgency

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Please forward your communication to: Tina Viney APAN PO Box 5448, Q Super Centre Q 4218

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and can be used on clients of any age or skin colour, including type IV and V skin types on the Fitzpatrick scale.

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WHY IS SKIN PEELING NEEDED?

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Normal skin layers regenerate every 15 to 30 days. This process is delayed or halted as we age, or if the skin is damaged. Excess skin layers block natural moisture production, trap bacteria and excess melanin, causing a range of dermatological complications.

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Rose de Mer lifts the epidermis to promote easy shedding and removal of dead skin cells. The combined action of friction and marine silicates micro-traumatise the skin and prompt a natural rejuvenation process.

As excess skin is sloughed off the skin naturally replenishes moisture levels, renews collagen synthesis and improves overall epidermal structure. Furthermore, this peel opens the skin for optimal reception of active ingredients. It can be used to complement professional treatments that target specific skin conditions, such as severe acne and ageing skin, causing them to work faster, more effectively, and achieve longer-lasting results.

A PEEL WITH A DIFFERENCE

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TREAT ANY SKIN CONDITION Whether you need just a light peel to refresh the skin or a deeper peel for more stubborn skin conditions, Rose de Mer offers you the option.

With this system you can achieve:

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Skin peels have a dual action – they eliminate the accumulation of dead cells from the skin's surface and, depending on their composition, they will stimulate the internal structure of the skin to activate and energise fibroblasts and collagen synthesis.

There are many advanced skin-renewal systems with varying degrees of efficacy, however, it is a well-established fact that skin peeling is very much part of any serious skin-improvement protocol, and there are currently several on the market to choose from.

A new and different concept called Rose de Mer has recently been introduced on the market developed by Christina Cosmeceuticals.

This peel is differentiated from anything currently on the market in that it features three district elements – it combines marine plants, minerals and salts that combine to create a peel that resurfaces the skin with minimal skin trauma as it is rich in anti-inflammatory agents, so it offers an inbuilt safety and healing system.

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These ingredients were originally used for medicinal purposes to assist patients with Rheumatoid Arthritis who were rubbing it on their joints to alleviate pain and swelling. However, doctors quickly noticed that their skin was also peeling. In studying the ingredients more closely it was ascertained that it could also be used on the face.

As a result Christina Laboratories harnessed the peeling and healing properties and formulated a safe and effective 100% natural chemically free products, and utilised the functions and healing properties of this product into a safe and effective 100% natural, chemical-free facial-peeling system.

The Rose de Mer peeling system is designed to leave the skin renewed, smooth and looking young and healthy. This peeling solution brings visible improvement to a variety of skin conditions,

Deep and light peels Control peeling depth – unlike most chemical alternatives Enhance penetration of active ingredients Prepare skin for more targeted treatment Offer a safe treatment option

Rose de Mer will provide measurable results for skin resurfacing and rejuvenation:

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Creates a natural face-lift appearance Diminishes wrinkles, fine lines and stretch marks Improves skin texture and elasticity Heals acne and evens sebum Improves skin circulation and oxygen supply Lightens skin discoloration and acne scarring Eliminates surface residues, including dead or damaged skin cells Brings the skin to its optimal state for enhanced active ingredient penetration

Regardless of the skin type or condition Rose de Mer will allow you to improve the following skin conditions:

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Lines and wrinkles Skin laxity Wrinkles and fine lines Oily and congested skin Hyperpigmentation Excess dryness

Rose de Mer offers you an affordable, yet effective solution to targeted peeling that will suit any skin type or skin condition.

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For further information on Rose de Mer and other Christina Cosmeceutical products contact SKIN FACTORS PTY LTD 1800 824 282

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Building More Regular Clients with

HydraFacial

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With your business income being impacted by the rise of Internet sales, an oppressive economy and supermarket brands promoting do-it-yourself solutions to consumers, it is time to lock in clients to the professional care they need by giving them a highly-effective treatment they just can't get anywhere else.

HydraFacial has been a standout performer for clinics across Australia and is delivering highretention rates and great results. The key benefit for a client is that after HydraFacial they feel instant results and the skin has an amazing softness that other treatments can't replicate. Clients walk out feeling an immediate, undeniable difference in their skin. And with the Hydrafacial Skin Health For Life program they keep coming back every month - great for their skin health and great for your business too.

Irene Vassilakos, Director of Flinders Cosmetics & Consultancy, was one of the first to choose HydraFacial in Australia and has achieved a great response from her patients.

“Flinders Cosmetics & Consultancy has been using the HydraFacial System from High Tech Laser for the past three years and we have found it to be most valuable, enhancing our laser equipment or as a standalone device to treat troublesome skin issues.

Considering how effective it is in treating most skin types, while successfully addressing very particular skin concerns, all clients should be eager to try this treatment before any standard facial.

In fact, we have found that clients who receive the HydraFacial before and after our laser treatments are seeing even more impressive results.

After one treatment, you'll notice softer, more hydrated skin, decreased pore size, and a more even skin tone. HydraFacial is the best value in skin care we have introduced into our clinic and our client return rate after using the HydraFacial is 100%.”

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Recent research by Dr Bruce Freedman on the HydraFacial supports the ability of the system to enhance IPL and Laser rejuvenation treatments. IPL and Laser rejuvenation treatments produce a surge in the level of oxidative chemicals in the skin after treatment. However, patients treated with HydraFacial prior to the rejuvenation treatment experienced virtually no increase in their levels of oxidative chemicals in comparison to patients who did not receive treatment.

The conclusion was that patients who were treated with HydraFacial in conjunction with IPL rejuvenation “demonstrated significantly greater epidermal and papillary dermal thickness, decreased lipid peroxide concentration, increased skin moisture content and increased polyphenolic antioxidant levels. There was qualitative improvement in hydration, texture and pore size”.

HydraFacial gives the therapist a variety of treatment options with the

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ability to deliver anti-oxidants or glycolic acid peels simultaneously with dermabrasion. A function to extract blackheads in seconds has added to the instant change that clients feel after a treatment.

HydraFacial has changed the way antioxidants and skin peels are delivered by perfecting a gentle form of dermabrasion that allows active ingredients to get to where they are needed most, without requiring aggressive chemical or mechanical exfoliation. The hydradermabrasion system exfoliates gently as the active ingredients are applied, so that results are achieved with lower concentrations of chemicals, thus reducing the risk of irritation to sensitive skin.

The HydraFacial can also treat oily and acne-prone skin, pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. The new DermaBuilder serum from HydraFacial™ contains complex peptides that stimulate collagen and elastin proteins. DermaBuilder reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improves skin structural strength, enhances elasticity and increases skin firmness.

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For more information call High Tech Laser on 1300 309 233 or visit www.hydrafacial.com.au ㈵

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ASK THE EXPERT Solutions, insights and advice for problems that arise at work

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I am looking at hiring a new staff member. Can you give me some interviewing tips that can help me identify the right person?

I am a franchisee and get all my support and education from the company I deal with. Do I still need to attend other educational programs, and if so why?

First of all you need to determine the job description that this person will fulfill as this will reveal to you the characteristics you are looking for in an individual. Too many salon owners only look at the skill sets in terms of treatments and overlook the human element, and this is where problems occur. You are hiring an individual who will contribute to the atmosphere and ambiance that you wish to create. As such the strengths of her human characteristics and her attitude are as equally important as her skill sets.

You must understand that there are two sides to the coin when it comes to business in our industry and both are equally important.

1. Attitude and manners – Is she positive, well spoken, articulate and cheerful? Does she smile easily, is engaging and pleasant? Do you believe that as a person your clients will warm-up to her and feel comfortable to share a private space with her for an hour or two for their treatment? Use your intuition as well as pointed questions to determine these.

2. Work competencies – What tasks will you be expecting her to perform? Does she have qualifications for these? What experience does she bring to the business? It would be advisable to have a list of activities that you would like her to perform and ask her to tick which ones she is qualified in and how long has she been performing these.

Don't forget to also ask her a question about selling products. Does she have a problem with this?

3. Attributes and characteristics – What are her character strengths, is she a leader or a great team player, is she a problem solver or does she panic easily? How well will she handle work pressure?

These are just some of the areas you will need to identify.

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You will need first to look at the position you are trying to fill to determine the needs. To do that you will need to examine three distinct areas:

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The key thing to remember is that during the interview is not the time to tell her who you are and what you want from her, this will come later. The interview is all about learning as much as possible about the person sitting across your desk and determining what she will bring to your business. For this reason you should be asking her a lot of questions about her opinions of various issues, her experiences, what she likes and doesn't like. Open-ended questions will give the opportunity for her to talk to you and for you to ascertain whether this person is right for your business. If you are not sure what questions to ask APAN has a wonderful resource that you can purchase that outlines 25 different attributes and has over 45 questions for you to choose from. This is a great interviewing resource that has been prepared by a qualified HR expert. Phone us today to get a copy.

First, it is important to know and understand the products that you are taking on. You need to know how they work and how to use them and promote them. You also need to establish appropriate policies and procedures for the delivery of your services and the growth of your business. All these in one end of the coin and achieving them will make you are a smart business person. This is what the franchise company or supplier will provide you with.

Second, it is also important to feed your mind with objective credible information that will allow you to objectively benchmark what you are told with what independent science and experts are saying in terms of new developments. This will allow you to also act professionally for your own good and the benefit of your clients.

While performance can be measured in concrete terms, such as meeting your revenue targets, professionalism is an intangible, but a much more valuable asset. It is linked to objective evidence that validates what you represent and do, as being accurate, truthful and credible, and the very best option for the purpose of the outcome you wish to achieve. However, the platform to receive this information must also be non-commercial and objective. For example, you are told by your company that an ingredient is good and can offer certain benefits. Reviewing this information independent of this company is part of your obligation to your client as a professional. You are still in control of what you say and communicate and you have a responsibility as a professional to continue learning independently of any commercial information.

APAN's conferences as well as other Associations and Societies provide the right platforms to gain such information. This is why it is important to participate at such events and gain the benefit of objective information that will either validate and support what you are told, or open your possibility thinking to better options.

Whichever it may be it will strengthen your professional opinion in the choices you are making, ensuring they are the best options for you.

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If we can assist you further please do not hesitate to contact APAN on 07 5593 0360.

If you would like your questions answered by an APAN Expert send them to the editor at info@apanetwork.com.

Your privacy will be maintained and your name will not be disclosed.

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Advance your knowledge and education to a higher level. MDA is now offering Post-Graduate courses to empower you for greater treatment results and business growth.

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With the advances in new equipment and skincare technology, heightened awareness by consumers and the collaboration between professional aesthetics and medical and anti-ageing practices there is now the need for education and specialised Post-Graduate training to support and deliver higher levels of expertise and advanced results.

Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS PROGRAM in 2011 to equip and empower you to make the transition with greater confidence into the realm of advanced treatment protocols for greater treatment outcomes.

Gay Wardle is without question today's leading and most influential educator in Australia. Winner of over 12 industry and business awards, she has a strong understanding of the aesthetics industry and the elements that are necessary for a successful salon or aesthetic practice.

Constantly investing in her own education and knowledge, she is not only passionate about training but simultaneously is undertaking a Bachelor's qualification with Victoria University.

MASTERCLASSES IN DERMAL TRAINING INCLUDE: ! One-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Two-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Three-day Journey to Understand and Empower your ! ! !

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Knowledge in Advanced Skin Evaluation Skin Preparation Programs to Optimise Results from IPL, Needling and Microdermabrasion Treatments to Target Pigmentation Understanding Ageing in the Skin and Treatments for Ageing Skin

ENROL TODAY Training Available in most States. For further details and to book Visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au email:gay-da.com.au or info@masterdermalacademy.com.au Ph: 0418 708 455 formerly Advanced Aesthetics

Masters Dermal Academy

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Cleopatra's best kept Secret CLAYS and their Medicinal Properties

By Dr Dzung Price

Cleopatra attracted and commanded the most powerful men. And in a world dominated by kings, generals and emperors, this was especially impressive. Cleopatra’s gaze brought even the most worldly and experienced men under her spell. But what was her secret? It may have been a secret as old as the earth itself. It was a secret that protected the youthful, seductive appeal of her skin and enhanced her natural charm. It also pulled grease, dirt and bacterial out of her pores like a magnet. This was the ancient clay deposits found only near the Nile used in her beauty mask, a certain type of clay that magnetised the impurities and gave her the warm, radiant glow she used to attract and win the most eligible bachelors in the world.

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In modern times, the average person is exposed to more and more toxins through water and air pollution, heavy metals, food additives, cosmetics, herbicides, pesticides, household chemicals, furniture finishing and construction materials than ever before in human history. The toxicity in our environment has a direct effect on our health, our skin, reducing our quality of life, and causes us to age prematurely, to get sick, and to lose our vitality.

The most common symptoms of toxic buildup within the body are mental dullness, aching-stiff joints, gas and bloating, high acidity, digestive problems with the stomach and colon, acid reflux and fatigue. Toxicity also shows up on the skin as sallow, dull, lifeless and blemished skin that easily becomes wrinkled. In order to combat the

toxicity and pollution that is harming our bodies, many health seekers are turning to the time-tested healing power of raw earth compounds such as clays, zeolites, fulvic acid, shilajit, MSM and other unique natural mineral compounds. The increasingly popular spa clays are now being rediscovered as a popular treatment for many different health and skincare conditions. Recently, much research has emerged which supports the therapeutic qualities of clay.

Healing earth or clay may be a new concept to some of us, but it has been used effectively for thousands of years. Long before recorded history, humans have used healing clays externally and internally to cure illnesses, sustain life and promote general health. Ancient tribes of the high Andes, central Africa and the Aborigines of Australia used clay as a dietary staple, a supplement, for beauty and for healing purposes. Early French cultures used clay for nutrition and medicinal purposes and also as a trading medium. They touted the clay's healing effect on gum diseases, ulcers, rashes, dysentery, haemorrhoids, skin disorders, infected wounds and bites. Russian scientists used clay to protect their bodies from radiation when working with nuclear material.

Like salt, certain clay is an edible form of earth that is highly absorptive. This means that clay can draw into itself and trap toxic gases, liquids and solids. Clay (like other raw earth compounds) has many healing abilities due to its alkaline pH and high negative ionic

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charge, and it works on the entire organism. Clays are basically inert trace supercharged minerals, tightly bound together that evolved over millions of years from volcanic ash deposits. It gets its negative electromagnetic energy charge from the thermodynamic heat and volcanic action that created it. When activated by water the clay awakens with a strength that radiates throughout the body, stimulating energy for the rebuilding and revitalisation of latent cells, and starts a healing process. The body needs this energy to restore harmonic balance essential to healthy maintenance.

However, all clays are different with different applications, making it complicated to understand the many options in the clay families.

They differ in composition of minerals, colours, textures, swelling capacity, taste, odour, grittiness and purity. Each has its own unique mineral composition and performance varies accordingly. Clays suitable for dry, sensitive or normal skin are Pink Kaolin, White Kaolin, Yellow Kaolin and Rose. Clays that are suitable for oily skin are Bentonite, French Green, Green Illite, Red Kaolin, Blue and Red Montmorillonite, Moroccan Red and Multani Mitti. Clays that are suitable for all skin types are Dead Sea, Rhassoul and Sea clays.

As an example, the Moroccan Rhassoul clay has been treasured for centuries by nobles and royalty as well as beauty experts. From ancient Egypt to modern spas worldwide, Rhassoul is a traditional ingredient in natural skincare and spa products. It has been used over 1400 years as a soap, shampoo and skin conditioner. As Rhassoul contains higher percentages of silica and magnesium along with potassium and calcium than other clays, in addition to its greater smectic qualities (ie ability to swell with the addition of water), Rhassoul achieves exceptional results in skin treatment.

Clinical studies conducted in the US by two different laboratories on Rhassoul clay for skin conditions (presented at the 12th meeting of the National Institute of Phytotherapy in Paris in 1985) revealed the following: ! Reduction of dryness (79%) ! Reduction of flakiness (41%) ! Improved skin clarity (68%) ! Improved skin elasticity/firmness (24%) ! Improved skin texture (106%)

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SMECTITE FAMILY OF CLAYS For this article, let's focus on the Smectite Family of clays, known commonly as Bentonites. A definable trait of the Smectite Family of clays is the ability to adsorb as well as absorb and are characterised by their expandable properties. Because of this exceptionally strong drawing power, Smectites are known as detoxing agents. The properties of particles in bentonite clay and how they are distributed contribute greatly to the curative properties of bentonite clay.

Bentonites do two things that work in our favour. First, they attract the unwanted positively charged particles. This is called adsorbing (attaching to). Second, they absorb (soak in) these particles, literally locking them away and protecting us from them. The structure of clay is like layers of playing cards with space between them. These layers swell as they absorb pollutants, heavy metals and chemicals. The greater the surface area the greater the power to pick up positively charged particles. One gram of bentonite clay has a surface area of 800 sq. metres.

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Bentonite clay contains montmorillonite, the primary mineral thought to be responsible for its beneficial qualities. It also contains magnesium and approximately 67 other trace minerals. In the Smectite Family of clays there are predominately Sodium and Calcium Bentonites.

SODIUM BENTONITE Sodium Bentonites are naturally high in salt – as high as 14%. They are the swelling or expanding clays, taking on more water when hydrated. These have been used primarily for industrial purposes

Furthermore, the studies also confirmed that Rhassoul clay removed surface oil and oil from inside and around comedones, and removed dead skin layers, resulting in a general smoothing of the surface skin.

After experimenting with approximately 30 different clays, my favourite clay for skin repair, skin rejuvenation, hair restoration and conditioning has been the Rhassoul Moroccan clay, as it is suitable for most skin types. It can be used in a variety of ways and its benefits are enhanced when mixed with crushed herbs, nutritives, organic botanicals and essential oils.

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Green, Red and Yellow Illite clays are very efficient at drawing dirt, oils and toxins from the skin. It is best used for oily skin and hair, and should be avoided by those with dry or sensitive skin. Green Illite does not expand in water, making it an ideal additive for soaps, scrubs and liquid formulas. Rose clay, a milk Kaolin clay naturally tinted with red oxides, is known best for its gentle nature and soft, exfoliating texture. It is effective at drawing toxins and impurities from the skin without harshly depleting the skin's moisture. It is also an efficient cleanser and exfoliant, making it a superb ingredient in gentle scrubs and facials. There are many other clays that have their own unique properties for different applications.

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(e.g., liner materials for landfills, binders for iron ore processing, etc). Many sodium-based clays are marketed as edible Bentonite Clays, but require mixing with an acid beverage, like apple cider vinegar, to offset the high sodium content prior to consumption. As our bodies cannot tolerate the ingestion of large amounts of sodium, the amount of sodium-based clay that can be consumed in a day is restricted to small dosages.

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CALCIUM BENTONITE

In clinical practice, I have witnessed rapid healing results with pure Calcium Bentonite Clay, such as a noticeable reduction in pain, irritation, and inflammation and skin healing, even when many other methods have failed. I have had patients ingest it as well as use it externally for detoxification purposes in the form of clay packs, poultices or as part of a detox home spa bath treatments in combination with zeolite minerals, magnesium chloride, homeopathics and detoxifying herbs. As the skin is one of the biggest elimination organs, detoxification of unwanted heavy metals and toxins through the skin can very effectively be achieved with the use of clays and zeolites.

HOW DO CLAYS WORK? There are several benefits that clays can offer us. These include the following functions: 1. Detoxes: Clay detoxes the body from different applications; internal, external and clay baths. All three work together in unison.

Taking the clay internally acts to absorb any fresh toxins ingested before they are passed into the blood and body. This lightens the work load of the body's filtering systems (the liver, kidneys and lymphatic system). Applying the clay externally to the skin acts to stimulate latent cell activity and revitalise the cells, which will help the cells release the toxins. The clay baths pull the stirred-up toxins from the

2. Balances: Clay also acts to help regulate bacterial populations and reduces bowel inflammation due to ulcerations or irritation.

Internal parasites and candida are drawn to the clay and expelled from the body. Clay is homeostatic. It brings the body into balance.

3. Alkalises: Most clays are naturally alkaline (calcium bentonite has a pH 8.7), and as a result balance the body's pH and reduce overacidity, which is critical to helping the body remain healthy and resist attack from microbes. Clay can reduce disorders such as Acid Reflux and neutralises any over-acidity in the stomach (almost instantly), restoring the stomach to a state of natural equilibrium.

4. Soothing: Clay coats the lining of the stomach and small intestine, which promotes healing of any damaged tissue or ulcerations. The energy of clay stimulates the revitalisation and rebuilding of damaged cells and tissues.

5. Stimulates: Used externally, clay's electromagnetic ionic charge increases blood flow, circulation and lymphatic stimulation, and speeds cellular rejuvenation and repair. Clay, being rich in minerals and enzymes, contracts and tones the skin, softens, exfoliates and strengthens the connective tissue.

Clay's physical action upon and with the body is secondary to its homeostatic properties. Clay's true power lies in its ability to act as a catalyst that causes changes in the body's function, helping the body achieve a state of healthy equilibrium. This is possible because clay is alive. Living clay is one capable of change through bio-transmutation, transformation and interactive exchange of elements and energy. It is a live medium that helps generate and maintain life.

The renowned chemist and researcher A.G. Cairns-Smith said, “Clays not only have the ability to grow and adsorb other molecules, but they can then incorporate the information from those molecules and use it to alter and change themselves” (The Origin of Life).

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Pure, natural, Calcium Bentonite Clay is one of the safest and easiest detoxing substances available today – with no consumption restrictions. They are highly regarded for their healing properties as they principally consist of minerals that contribute to the production of enzymes in all living organisms. They are the preferred clays to be ingested by humans, animals and plants and for incorporating into soil.

body through the pores of the skin. A good clay with strong electromagnetic power pulls toxins from the soft tissue deposits and its large absorption capacity holds the toxins captive and eliminates them from the body.

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ZEOLITE – THE SUPER-CLAY Zeolite is a natural volcanic mineral that possesses a uniquely complex structure and has quite a few characteristics that make it an ideal therapeutic mineral. For centuries, the powdered form of

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specific zeolites has been used as traditional remedies throughout Asia to promote overall health and wellbeing. Although zeolites are not technically forms of clay, they produce a similar effect. Like clay, zeolites have a strong detoxification ability, yet they are dramatically more powerful than clay. Because of this, I like to think of zeolites as a form of “super-clay”. However, unlike the clays above, zeolite is not likely to be inert in the body. Zeolite is one of the most powerful negatively charged minerals in nature. It acts as a magnet, drawing toxins to it, capturing them in its cage-like molecular structure and then permanently removing the toxins from our body.

Ingestible zeolites appear to have an especially powerful chelating effect, removing heavy metals such as mercury, cadium, arsenic, lead and aluminium, as well as pesticides, herbicides, volatile organic compounds and other positively charged toxins from the system.

Heavy metals are considered highly toxic and are often carcinogenic, neurotoxic and mutagenic. Zeolite has a strong antioxidant component and is one of the scientifically known substances to remove these harmful oxidants from the body. Zeolite also acts as a clathrating compound, able to remove calcified substances (bad calcium) from the body.

On the skin, zeolite's actions are as follows:

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Cleansing – draws toxic matter from deep within the pores Detoxifying – super antioxidant action traps and removes toxins Exfoliating – gently and thoroughly lifts and removes old skin cells Clarifying – helps clears and reduce blackheads Refining – decreases the appearance of enlarged pores Soothing and calming – emits calming negative ions, contains calcium and magnesium and has 7.4 pH value, soothing itchy skin and calming acid skin conditions.

Anti-ageing – protects skin from free radical damage by preventing their formation.

Beautifying – improves skin function to promote a glowing complexion

Soaking in a clay-zeolite bath along with magnesium and herbs can relieve stress, tension, aches and pains, and can be a wonderful detoxifying addition to a home spa treatment. Being crystalline in

structure and form, clay and zeolites can be bio-energised with Infoenergetic technology to impart specific vibrational programs to enhance the therapeutic effect and the relaxation experience. CHI vibrational frequencies are stored in the volcanic minerals and act like tiny batteries, imparting additional healing information to cells.

IN CONCLUSION Resolving the primary causes of disease has been an increasing challenge in modern times with its constant bombardment of the latest technology, fast-paced living and exposure to harmful toxins, radiofrequency and electromagnetic fields. Chronic stress and tension significantly hampers our ability to heal, recover and detoxify.

Clay and zeolite therapy, which has been used for thousands of years by indigenous people around the world, has passed the test of time to be a superior natural detoxification, beautification and healing method. Natural earth compounds such as clay, zeolites, minerals and herbs can be used as a cost-effective, nurturing solution to cleanse and invigorate the body, and restore the equilibrium and serenity of the mind.

I encourage you to consider clay therapy, both internal and external, as part of your clients’ wellbeing plan, and discover how healing earth can be integral to a joyful journey that promotes balance, peace and a rediscovery of one of nature’s best kept secrets.

Dr Dzung Price is a holistic integrated medical practitioner with qualifications in Nutrition and Environmental Medicine, Naturopathy, Acupuncture, Bio-energetic Medicine and Homeotoxicology. Using this comprehensive array of healing modalities, cutting edge medical technology and self-empowerment solutions, Dr Price works to address the root causes of disease and the lack of wellness in her patients. Working closely with a talented team, Dzung's approach is to restore optimal health by removing the obstacles so that the body creates agelessness and wellness in mind, body and spirit through clinics in Brisbane and on the Gold Coast. Dr Price is well known for her groundbreaking work in the field of allergy medicine and nutrition. She is the author of Your Allergy Free Child, 7 Day Detox Guide and Younger, Healthier Skin at Any Age. She is the co-founder of CHI Health Innovations, a company devoted to the provision of bio-energised natural health products for wellness and beauty. www.chihealthinnovations.com. For further information on CHI Health Clay products see the Product Innovations section of this journal.

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Social media has taken the digital world by storm and reshaped social interactions from everyday communications with friends and family to how the world sees and experiences life as a whole.

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These mediums have opened up a whole new way for the beauty industry to reach consumers on a localised level. Experts now confirm that social media is becoming a big piece of our digital strategies for beauty brands. At the centre of social media is an inherently local conversation between our services or brands and our customers, or between clients and their friends about our services and brands. Our clients and fans want to communicate with us in their local language, about events happening at their salon or clinic, solutions to their beauty dilemmas and about products that are launching and experienced.

They want to know if the professional has done a great job in improving their skin conditions or solving the skin problem. They want information that is relevant to them, and they want to discuss it with their social media platform.

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Think about it – each time a new client joins you, his or her experience could be discussed on a social media platform, and this can mean excellent publicity for what you do or it can be damming, depending on how they view the experience.

In the modern digital world you need to understand that your activities, treatments and products may have a much broader exposure than you may be aware of, so you need to ensure that you are vigilant with your standards, ethics and the results you deliver – these all need to be newsworthy for someone to brag about.

WORKING WITH EXPERTS What we do and what we stand for must have a clear message that will not be lost in the translation. This is where expert advice can help as one size doesn't fit all. Gaining an understanding as to who is interacting with you is important. The point is to understand that your global audience isn't a collective, but rather separate audiences with unique needs, and in order to reach them, you need to find out who they are and talk to them directly.

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THE RISE OF SOCIAL MEDIA and INTERNET MARKETING and how it will AFFECT YOUR BUSINESS

As with every discipline as social media becomes prolific it is now becoming a specialised area, so finding the right expert is important if you wish to continue this momentum to your business growth. While many salons are undertaking their own Facebook management, some are now seeing the need to delegate this to an expert who can take it on for a small fee per week. This can provide huge benefits, but for it to be successful you need to work with your Facebook manager and help them understand your market and what message you want to communicate with your clients and potential clients. You will still need to train, leverage and empower your digital manager on your market and the language your clients understand. To do that correctly, you need to communicate a clear shared vision of the DNA of your salon's culture and the type of audience you want to gain.

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It's a little like hiring a new staff member who may be a qualified therapist, but does not know your environment and the culture that makes your salon, spa or clinic unique and special. She may have the

By Tina Viney technical skills to perform treatments, but she still needs to be orientated on how to contribute to the ambience and foster the same culture that differentiates your business from the one down the road.

NEW KID ON THE BLOCK SOCIAL GIFTING Last year, the buzzword in e-commerce was group buying coupons promoted by companies such as Cudo and Groupon and their myriad of competitors that offered daily online coupons to entice shoppers in a down economy. While these worked for some salons and destroyed others we are now seeing a new trend which is promising potential business growth without some of the negatives of group coupons.

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Social gifting is now the new trend. Social gifting is where people get together on Facebook to buy each other gifts.

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Start-ups such as Sweden-based Wrapp, which is launching its U.S.

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business recently, are getting millions of dollars in venture-capital funding, and retailers like Best Buy Co Inc, Gap Inc and Starbucks Corp are scurrying to be a part of it.

Salons and businesses are looking for new, more efficient ways to drive business to their premises without diluting their brands, and Wrapp are now studying how to provide a product that will help businesses leverage the megatrends of smartphones and social networks.

So who is Wrapp? Wrapp is essentially an app that can run on smartphones, tablets and computers. It allows Facebook friends to buy each other gift cards from participating retailers either individually or by teaming up, which they can store on their mobile devices and redeem either online or inside physical stores or salon. Businesses like it because there is little marketing cost and because customers often end up buying more once they are inside the salon or store.

Since mid-November more than 165,000 active users have given over 1.4 million gift cards that can be redeemed in some 50 major retail stores across Europe, according to Wrapp.

The thing that struck me as unique and interesting about Wrapp is that it is kind of the intersection of three trends: gift cards, social networks and mobile (shopping).

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E-gifting – or people buying gift cards from a business's website – is still in its infancy, accounting for only $1 billion of the $100 billion gift card industry last year, according to Brian Riley, senior research director at CEB TowerGroup. Of that $1 billion, social gifting made up only about 5 per cent, or $50 million. However, this is an area to look out for as technology is naturally progressing toward platforms like social gifting.

“Customers can connect from our site to their registered Facebook account to view upcoming birthdays of Facebook friends, send them e-gifts directly, and share the news on their Facebook wall," said Alexandra Wheeler, vice-president of global digital marketing at Starbucks.

Bridget Dolan, vice-president of interactive media at Sephora, said conversion rates – measuring the amount of customers who actually come to stores to redeem the vouchers – are likely to spike on holidays like Valentine's Day, Mother's Day, and just before Christmas.

This optimism has a host of startups like CashStar, SocialGift, Groupcard Apps and DropGifts rushing in to be the early birds in the sector.

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CashStar, for example, works with more than 200 retailers for their egifting businesses, and has seen sales grow 463 per cent in the latest quarter. Nearly 10 per cent of CashStar's retailer network uses social gifting, CashStar Chief Executive David Stone said.

“Facebook commerce is still very

nascent; it is a small, small world. Within that, social gifting is one area where we can potentially build sales,” Stone said.

While there are high hopes for the future of social gifting, it may be appropriate to remember last year's darling, Groupon. As a private company, Groupon was one of the fastest-growing businesses in history and in November pulled off one of the largest Internet IPOs of the past decade, valuing the company at well over $10 billion. But since the stock market debut, the shares have fallen around 40 per cent on concern about the sustainability of that growth and the company's accounting.

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If you want to see how this is currently working visit Starbucks' Facebook. They expect social gifting to make up about 20 per cent of its gifting business in the near future.

Retailers view social gifting as an opportunity to reach out to their target buyers and promote their brands at almost no extra cost.

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Wrapp, for instance, charges retailers nothing until a transaction is made. It bets on the premise that most shoppers will end up spending more than the gift card's value once they are in the salon or store.

Marketers and inventors of these platforms want to enhance the client experience and many consumers are on Facebook.

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Wr a p p , w h i c h w o r k s w i t h companies like home improvement chain Clas Ohlson and Dixons Retail-owned consumer electronics chain Elgiganten in Europe, said users reportedly spent 5.2 times the value of the gift card when they came to claim their gifts.

“We have no doubts that because of the Facebook platform these things can grow very quickly and get a lot of users in a short period of time," said Sucharita Mulpuru, an analyst with Forrester Research. But she also has a word of caution. “It is new, and there is a lot that remains to be seen. It could be a very powerful form of marketing (and) drive incremental value. But the challenge is that there is a promise and there is a reality ... you can't just introduce a platform like this and expect it to deliver gold to everybody," she said.

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NEW DOMAIN NAMES ICANN (Internet Corporations for Assigned Names and Numbers) is the international body that controls the registration of names and numbers for the Internet is now opening up the domain name possibilities. This will have a huge impact on a business's optimisation to be accessed on the Internet. New suffixes will be introduced that will be industry specific. For example we currently have options of .com or .com.au or .org.

However, this is all about to change as industries will now have a choice of a suffix that relates specifically to their industry. What that will mean is that the new industry-specific domain name will direct traffic to the website with substantial optimisation.

THE CURRENT SITUATION Traditionally, salon businesses have had a slow uptake of computer technology and are therefore latecomers to the Internet. As such, many are finding it very difficult to match their business name to a domain name. This often is because other businesses in other industries have already secured the domain name they were after.

This has necessitated many salons to take up unusually large names or domain names that are not easily linked to the business name, or names in other domain name spaces that aren't related to their industry or location. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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With the current situation many customers and potential customers often have difficulty in finding their salon of choice in their region on the Internet. As new domain names will be introduced that will be more specific to industries, salon owners will have access to a new batch of names in their own industry and the search engines will be able to optimise them as salons in the searcher’s region and therefore clients will more easily be able to locate them.

Once a salon industry-specific domain name has been introduced this will offer businesses the following advantages: ! Introduce choice to businesses to improve their exposure through

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a more specific and targeted domain name.

For salons who where not able to closely match their business name with their web name they will now have the opportunity to do so, rather than having to rely on abstract connections between their business name and domain name.

Consumers will be able to recognise them as a salon as their web name will now clearly identify them as such. ! Optimising the domain name space will support diversification and create a new innovative way for salons to quickly and effectively update consumers on new advances and offers. ! By providing an effective, efficient and economical tool to optimise their market presence businesses will now be able to grow their market share with greater ease.

It will boost brand awareness, visibility, reputation, and enhance healthy competition through this targeted tool that can optimise the communication of information and provide a stronger industry presence.

With an industry-specific domain name users will be able to better understand the availability of options, which will enhance consumer trust and confidence by improving their ability to access information they are looking for with greater speed and ease.

It will also allow businesses to gain the confidence in developing new innovative ideas to increase their market share and grow their businesses.

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RECOMMENDATION As new industry-specific domain names become available APAN will update you on this as this change can substantially optimise communication effectiveness to our doors, so this would be a sound investment to consider.

In our opinion, while the various social media tools introducing new ways for consumer communication and interaction with businesses must be examined for the purpose of possible engagement, some of these may be passing trends, regardless of how large the buzz is when they are launched. However, a domain name registration is in a league of its own. It's something that one should not consider as a trend, but a sound business investment. Once you register your name in this new domain space it is yours as long as you wish it to be – you will remain in control, and this will not be subject to the fickle trends that may come and go as with some of the other options.

HOW TO BEST PREPARE FOR CHANGE As the world is evolving through the advent of new communication tools salons need to prepare first and foremost in terms of what they have to offer. They need to ensure that their businesses are up-to-date with the latest and most credible products and services and are committed to excellence in client care. It is also the right time to revisit your mission and your message to the world. What do you want people to know and recognise you for? What is the brand of your service unique for? You need to define this and be ready for a potential business explosion through these new internet tools.

Reference: http://www.smh.com.au/small-business/trends/forget-couponssocial-gifting-is-the-new-top-dog-20120503-1y0dh.html#ixzz1tw4OH0dI

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Innovative beauty products by

1284 BB APJ Full Page_FA.indd 1

www.bebeauty.com.au

2/5/12 12:45:00 PM

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Mastering the challenges of ACNE with the power-packed

SKEYNDOR

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Using a multi-faceted approach with advanced, clinically proven ingredients, Skeyndor launches the super-performing Clear Balance.

“Years ahead in the treatment process and mastering the acne challenge,” comments Luca Mora, CEO of Skeyndor, “Clear Balance treatment range will successfully treat adult-onset and teen acne in a targeted and never-before available three-step approach, proving that all acne fighters are not created equal.”

Using cutting-edge and distinctively unique ingredients, Clear Balance targets active lesions and prevents their future formation, enhances the exfoliation process at the pore opening, kills off surface bacteria, offsets and calms inflammation, while at the same time treats the overall conditions associated with acneic skin such as bumps, scarring, sensitivity, clogged open pores and redness.

Encouraging a clearer, balanced, healthier and smoother complexion, Clear Balance also tackles other problems linked to acneic and oily skin conditions, such as dryness and flakiness brought about by excessive cleansing and scrubbing and the use of harsh ingredients.

At the pore level Clear Balance targets acne in a three-step approach to control abnormal and excessive sebum production, reduce inflammation and treat the problems of acneic and oily skin conditions such as bacteria, sensitivity, scarring, blemishes, blackheads, clogged and open pores.

Successfully addressing adult-onset and teen acne, brought about as a result of hormones, certain medications or possibly genetics, Clear Balance optimises the healing process of active lesions and prevent their formation, enhances the exfoliation process, reduces scarring from past and present acne, and overall, killing off surface bacteria in the cells and re-establishing the skin's pH balance for optimum skin defence.

To provide further clarity about the benefits and what Clear Balance can offer a salon and their clients we asked Luca to answer a few questions:

APJ1: In essence what is Clear Balance all about and what skin conditions does it address?

Luca: Clear Balance is SKEYNDOR's new product and treatment range for oily and acne-prone skin. It acts by targeting the three primary causes of pimples, excessive oiliness (hyperseborrhea), build-up of dead keratinised cells (hyperkeratosis) and the tendency towards inflammation and infection, and therefore reduces and prevents the formation of pimples, blackheads and other lesions.

APJ2: Can you tell us if there are any clinical trials that support the results a salon can expect from Clear Balance?

Luca: Yes, a clinical trial was conducted on Clear Balance and it has provided evidence of its effectiveness. Clinical results have confirmed the following evidence of efficacy on subject evaluation: ! Fewer active lesions (75%) – significant reduction in noninflammatory lesions and blackheads ! Minimising oiliness (80%) – significant improvement in normalising of oil secretion (sebum regulating effect) ! Satisfaction (90%) – the majority of the subjects stated they would buy this treatment over their current treatment

APJ3: Can you tell us some of the active ingredients used in this skincare range?

Luca: There are several incredible and wellresearched ingredients used in Clear Balance.

However, the secret of its success is also a t t r i b u t e d t o t h e h i g h l y e ff e c t i v e nanoliposome technology that ensures the active ingredients are transported to the deeper layers of the skin. In short here are

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APJ4: Is this a salon treatment range or does it offer a retail range as well? Please explain?

Luca: Yes, there are two salon

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treatments - one for rebalancing oily skin, unblocking pores and preventing acne, and one for inflamed acne skin.

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There is also a full range of homecare products that include cleanser, toner, moisturiser, mask, serum, anti-spot, and spot cover products.

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APJ5: What outcomes can a salon expect from this range in terms of results?

Luca: You can expect fantastic results in reduction of acne lesions and rebalancing and normalising of oily skin problems, including open pores, especially when a course of treatment is given alongside the homecare products. just some of the ingredients used in this range:

Astragalus – Extract of Astragalus root. This plant has scientificallyvalidated anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and regenerative properties. Encapsulated in nanoliposomes, it is targeted at the sebaceous glands and acts as an effective regulator of excessive oil secretion.

Substances that normalise disorders in the skin's keratinisation process, such as hyperkeratosis (thickening) or parakeratosis (open pores). They are different from keratolytic agents (e.g. AHA), in that they treat the cause of these disorders and not just the aesthetic effect.

These substances include:

Bakuchiol – A photo-stable compound used as a substitute for retinol with an effect (genetic expressing profile) that is practically identical, but with no irritating or sensitising potential.

Ursolic Acid – This is an alternative compound to retinoic acid in antiageing treatments. Soothes and repairs the skin, with a very complete regenerative effect. It is also delivered to the cells via nanoliposomes.

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Additionally, immune stimulant substances to increase the action of anti-microbial peptides (AMP) that are naturally present in the skin.

These peptides act as antibiotics and protect against external microbial invasion, reducing the risk of suffering infections and acne. They include Acetyl Dipeptide-3 Aminohexanoate - a synthesised peptide created as a vaccine for specifically increasing the levels of Ddefensines, hBD-2 and hBD-3. These are considered the most active antimicrobial peptides that combat the bacteria responsible for acne.

Additionally, Meadowsweet Phenolic Extract is added to the formula.

This extract stimulates the innate immunity of the skin and controls infectious skin flora. It also increases the synthesis of cathelicidins, belonging to the antimicrobial peptides family, complementing the antimicrobial effect of B-defensins.

APJ6: Can this range be used in conjunction with equipment for enhanced results? If yes, can you please specify?

Luca: While equipment is not needed in using the treatment range you can definitely enhance results through the use of technology with the Skin Balance treatment range. For example, the SK D-P Ultrasonic can prepare the skin for great penetration through increased exfoliation and unblocking of pores. This then can be followed with SK MesoScience electroporation that will allow for the active ingredients to be targeted to the deeper layers of the skin and the sebaceous gland, thus improving results and achieving faster outcomes.

APJ7: How do you believe Clear Balance will meet a market need for the results-orientated skin therapist?

Luca: Addressing and treating acne is a very real challenge to any skin therapist as there are many factors that can contribute to the condition.

The key consideration therefore is to use a multi-pronged approach that targets a whole spectrum of considerations that will deliver positive results. Due to encapsulating of the latest active ingredients in nanoliposomes, Skin Balance is a highly effective new generation formulation that can target acne and problematic skin conditions at their core. By addressing oiliness, inflammation and infection, Clear Balance will rebalance the skin and support its immunity offering visible and reliable results to this troublesome skin condition. Helping individuals with acne and problematic skin is very rewarding as these conditions can also be psychologically very traumatic.

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Please contact Vogue Image Group on 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033 or email info@vogueimage.com.au to find out more about the cutting edge SKEYNDOR Clear Balance.

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APJ 25

businessleadership ㄰

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A business is a reflection of its owner.

As the owner gets better, so does the business.

Keys to successful Business Leadership

By Tina Viney Successful businesses are usually the result of innovative thinkers and smart and efficient managers who bring out the best in their team and make reaching targets and the success of the business fun and achievable.

and has over 45 questions that you can choose from to determine whether your interviewee has the attributes you are looking for. This document costs $45, but it can save you the headache of hiring the wrong person.

In difficult times negativity can creep in and owners or managers can become disheartened and this can cascade to the rest of the staff. A business is a reflection of its owner. As the owner gets better, so does the business. So here is an opportunity to examine how you measure up. Below we have listed 10 key elements that contribute to a successful business leader. We encourage you to look at each element one at a time and work on each as an individual project.

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SELECT THE BEST PERSON FOR THE JOB

When selecting staff it is important to understand that they will bring elements of their own strengths and weaknesses to the business.

When selecting your staff pick the ones that can offer you a good starting ground to build on. Their attitude to life and their approach to others will also be key factors that can determine how effective they will be in contributing to a positive and productive environment in your business. If you are not sure how to ascertain specific qualities APAN have a wonderful resource that identifies 25 different attributes

BE A MOTIVATOR

Just think for a minute, we do things because we want to. Sometimes it is because the consequences of not wanting to do something may be unpleasant so we do it out of obligation without our hearts connecting to the action, however, most of the time we do things because of the rewards that we gain by doing the task. It's no different at work.

People do good work for the pay, the prestige or the recognition. They do bad work because they want to take it easy and still get paid. They work really hard because they want to impress someone. To motivate your staff better, figure out what they want and how you can give it to them for doing what you want them to do.

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3.

BUILD YOUR TEAM

The synergy of a happy group of people that support one another and work comfortably as a team is very powerful in creating positive energy and momentum that clients pick up and appreciate. It's about everyone knowing their task and respecting one another in a

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APJ 26

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supportive way that contributes to a seamless harmony of human engagement and enhanced productivity. Your job as a team leader is to provide the staff with the right information and momentum that will foster and support that team spirit, because everything hinges on the performance of your staff.

out. Whatever service or promotion you develop has to be commercially sound and able to bring in sufficient income to meet the business's obligations and deliver a profit. Money matters are important and this is a area you must ensure you fully understand.

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BE A LEADER NOT A MANAGER

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BE AN EFFECTIVE COMMUNICATOR

Often when we interact with people we are familiar with each day we forget that they may not necessarily think like us. Ensuring that your communication is very clear and precise is the single most important skill for a leader. After all you can't be a leader if you can't communicate your vision. You can't motivate people if they can't understand what you want. Focusing on the importance of clear communication is critical to the success of your leadership. Your instructions, your guidance and your expectations must never be vague. Ensure they are crystal clear.

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MANAGE MONEY WELL

Another important element in leadership is to ensure the financial viability of the business. You need to ensure that there are sufficient services and products to keep money coming in, more so than going

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IMPROVE YOUR TIME MANAGEMENT SKILLS

Time is money and to ensure that services are carefully packaged to be delivered in a time-efficient manner is all part of effective leadership.

Streamlining tasks is also part of efficient time management.

Leadership is more than just management. It's about providing vision and direction as well as procedures and strategies of how to do things.

You can have the best trained team that is highly motivated for peak performance, but you still need to provide them with direction.

Unless you turn that motivation towards an achievable goal and lead the team to it the momentum of achieving will soon die away. Setting goals and reaching them is the ultimate reward that staff will appreciate, not to mention your accountant.

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PRACTICE ETHICS

Ethical conduct, such as staying true to your word, being honest and truthful with your dealings will engender trust in your team. Your staff members are more likely to follow your direction and comply to your requirements if they respect, trust and believe in your honesty.

IMPROVE YOURSELF

Don't focus so hard on people that you forget about yourself. Identify the areas in which you are weak and improve them. Don't forget that while you are leading others they are also studying you and your own behaviour. Be an inspiration, not just an instructor.

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DON'T UNDERESTIMATE THE VALUE OF BREAKS

Innovation and creativity are more likely to flow from a mind that is rested. Recharging your own batteries should be considered as a necessary strategy for effective leadership. Being overworked and overstressed will ultimately result in you being less efficient, so don't feel guilty in taking a little time out for yourself, it's all part of the equation of excellence.

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APJ 27

keyingredient ㄰

amount of fish consumption is two times a week, which equates to a combined DHA and EPA intake of only 300mg a day. To bridge the gap, supplements are recommended. Fish oil also offers some skin benefits due to its anti-inflammatory properties.

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KRILL OIL This is a relative newcomer to the EPA/DHA supplementation option.

It is touted as the stronger option than fish oil, where you need to consume fewer capsules than its ocean counterpart, but there is a difference, and in fact you can take both at the same time.

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Krill oil is extracted from the Antarctic krill, which are shrimp-like crustaceans. If you're allergic to shellfish, you should avoid krill. So what sets it apart from fish oil?

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What is interesting is that krill oil has high antioxidants levels, including vitamins A, E and astaxanthin. Antioxidants as we know are free radical scavengers, but as far as the skin is concerned the astaxanthin in krill oil helps reduce sunburn and poses strong antiinflammatory properties to assist with numerous skin disorders as well as help minimise skin degeneration and ageing. Furthermore, ,krill will help treat PMS and period pain and its anti-inflammatory properties will help boost the immune system against diseases. With krill oil virtually all of the EPA and DHA are bound to phospholipids, making them highly bioavailable in the body (more so than standard fish oil), as the fats in our own cell walls are in this form. Daily dose of krill that is recommended is just 300gm.

The debate on OMEGA-3 Do we need all three?

Recent scientific studies advocate the benefit of Omega-3 fatty acids to skin and health when consumed. However, there are various sources that can provide us with Omega-3, but the debate is - are they all the same? Here we examine three different sources - fish oil, krill oil and flaxseed oil. You will be surprised what you will discover.

The benefit of Omega 3 fatty acids is important to the aesthetic therapists as they offer great support in assisting to improve skin conditions. This is because these health fats, stimulate the production of collagen and improve the blood flow in the layer below the skin that supplies nutrients for the creation of new, healthy skin cells.

Additionally, Omega-3 fatty acids possess strong anti-inflammatory properties and are therefore excellent for skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis and even acne.

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Fish oil is well-known to many as its benefits are readily promoted with many studies validating its benefits. Fish oil is usually extracted from fatty fish such as mackerel, salmon, tuna or herring as all these fish are a rich source of essential fatty acids, and in particular eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). Our body can't make these ingredients on its own, so it's important to get them through diet or supplements such as fish oil liquid or capsules.

Fish oil helps lower cholesterol, prevent heart disease and strokes, reduce incidences of depression and Alzheimer's as well as helping slow the rates and severity of arthritis and osteoporosis. The ideal dose of DHA and EPA is 650 mg per day. The current recommended

FLAXSEED OIL While a plant and not fish, flaxseed oil is a source of omega-3s, but has slightly different properties from fish and krill, because it is a plantderived source. This makes it suitable for vegetarians. Flaxseed oil is also known as linseed oil. It is made of seeds from the flax plant and contains something that fish-oils don't - alpha-linolenic acid (ALA).

Our bodies, however, do something incredible with ALA, they convert it to the same type of omega-3s found in fish and krill EPA and DHA. Research, however, has also shown that ALA can reduce the risk of heart disease and irregular heartbeats.

Flaxseed oil may also strengthen fingernails and toenails it can improve the absorption of calcium, assist in the treatment of eczema, flaky skin, dandruff and dull hair, increase your metabolic rate and can even help reduce the recovery time for muscle fatigue after exercise.

Recommended dose of one-to-two tablespoons of flaxseed oil is ideal and can be used cold in salad dressing. You can also purchase flaxseeds and granulate them and eat them sprinkled on your morning cereal, smoothies or in your salad.

REFERENCE: The Great Oils Debate fish vs krill vs flax. www.govita.com

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APJ 28

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skinscience INTRINSIC AGEING (Chronological) is cellular-determined and reflects genetic background and depends on time. Various expressions of intrinsic ageing include smooth, thinning skin with exaggerated expression lines.

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EXTRINSIC AGEING (Behavioural) is caused by avoidable exogenous environmental factors such as sun exposure, air pollution, smoking, alcohol abuse and poor nutrition. Extrinsically aged skin is characterised by photo-damage as rhytides (wrinkles), pigmented lesion (such as ephelides and lentigines), patchy hypopigmentation (such as guttate hypomelanosis), actinic keratoses and skin cancers.

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Intrinsic ageing is greatly modified and exacerbated by extrinsic causative factors, increasing the signs and symptoms of age. Since 1997, it has been known that of all extrinsic ageing, 80% is from ultraviolet light- induced damage. 2

FACTORS THAT AFFECT EPIDERMAL AGEING Keratinocytes make up more than 95% of the epidermis, a selfrenewing stratified and cornified epithelium approximately 100 µm thick.

Between the third and eighth decades of life, the epidermal turnover rate slows from 30% to 50%. Such a cell cycle lengthening in older adults coincides with a protracted stratum corneum replacement rate, epidermal atrophy, slower wound healing and often less-effective desquamation.

The cascade of changes related to decelerated cell turnover results, in the development of increased corneocytes that render the skin surface rough and dull in appearance. With age, there is a reduction in the number of melanocytes in the range of 8-20% per decade.

Thus an older skin cannot protect itself as much as a younger skin from UVR which increases the extrinsically caused damage to the skin.

The degradation or loss of skin barrier function with increasing age is partly accountable for this manifestation. The recovery of damaged barrier function has been demonstrated to be slower in aged skin, resulting in greater susceptibility to developing dryness. The loss of epidermal barrier function is a multifactorial process due, in part, to lower lipid levels in lamellar bodies and a decrease in epidermal filaggrin.

Biochemical Skin Ageing

Gaining the scientific perspective

By Terry Everitt M.Ed, BHSc (Aesthetics) In this article Terry Everitt establishes the fundamentals of skin ageing and presents new research findings on what has been proven to work with the management or reversal of ageing skin.

No surprise to anyone that the skin changes as we age, which is just as well perhaps as we would have much less business if this was not the case. While we all know the outward appearance of aged skin, many are not too sure how this occurs.

LAMELLAR BODIES (originally named Odland bodies) in the Stratum Granulosum produce special lipids to the intercellular space of the cornified layer, which is responsible for barrier properties and desquamation of cornified cells. These lamellar bodies reduce in size and production of lipids with the resulting increased dryness of the skin. The reduction of lipids in the epidermis in turn allows increased trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL); leaving the stratum corneum more susceptible to becoming dry.

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Ageing has been defined as “a multi-step, multifaceted, timedependent phenomenon characterised by the decreasing ability of a system to respond to exogenous (external) and endogenous stress (internal) of physical, biological or chemical agents”. 1 All a bit of a mouthful, yet this definition does encapsulate ageing.

While the skin may not be the first organ to indicate stress and ageing, it is the first to visibly make aware that ageing has occurred and is occurring. In term of skin ageing, we talk of two major causative factors – intrinsic and extrinsic.

EPIDERMAL FILAGGRIN are protein structures formed by precursors, called profilaggrin, within keratohyalin granules in cells of the stratum granulosum, which have a role in keratin production and then filaggrin undergoes further processing in the stratum corneum to release free amino acids that assist in water retention as part of the epidermal barrier. As with the lamellar bodies, as the skin ages there is a reduction in filaggrin production, which increases the dryness in the skin – again helping to age the skin faster.

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APJ 30

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FACTORS THAT AFFECT DERMAL AGEING

Collagen VII, although not in great amounts, is the primary constituent in anchoring fibrils that attach the epidermal basement membrane to the underlying papillary dermis. As these 'anchors' are weakened, the dermis and epidermis reduces its adhesion strength and capabilities, therefore increasing the risk of the epidermis coming off the dermis (termed epidemolysis).

Approximately 20% of dermal thickness disappears as the skin ages. As you know, collagen is responsible for conferring strength and support (not elasticity) to human skin. Collagen is the most abundant protein found in humans and is the primary structural component of the dermis, comprising 70% of the dry skin mass.

In aged skin, collagen is characterised by thickened fibrils, organised in rope-like bundles that appear to be in disarray in comparison to the pattern observed in younger skin. The ratio of collagen types found in human skin also changes with age.

An integral constituent of the Dermo-Epidermal Junction (DEJ), collagen IV imparts a structural framework for other molecules and plays a key role in maintaining mechanical stability. The mechanical stability of the DEJ may be adversely affected by this loss of collagen IV, thereby contributing to wrinkle formation.

Feature Clinical appearance

Elastic tissue

Increased, but almost normal

Collagen

Bundles thick, disoriented

Glycosaminoglycans Reticular dermis

Slightly decreased Thinner Fibroblasts decreased, inactive Mast cells decreased, no inflammation

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Papillary dermis Microvasculature

No Grenz zone Moderate loss

Collectively this increases collagen breakdown; a larger factor in skin ageing.

Epidermis

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Collagen is degraded by enzymes k n o w n a s m a t r i x metalloproteinases (MMPs), which themselves require a number of bits and pieces termed transcription factors (with strange names like cjun and c-fos for example). Generally there are enough of these little chemicals in the skin, but it is known that transcription factors are greatly increased with ultraviolet radiation. The up regulation of the norm simply increases the MMPs (notable collagenase, gelatinase and stromelysin) while inhibiting transforming growth factor (TGF)β signalling pathway (needed for collagen build-up).

Intrinsic ageing Smooth, unblemished surface Some deepening of skin surface markings Some loss of elasticity Thin and viable

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Collagen is in a constant state of building (anabolism) and breaking down (catabolism), and it is the disruption to the normal cycle that increases the catabolism of the collagen.

THE ROLE OF COLLAGEN IN THE SKIN In young skin, collagen I comprises 80% and collagen III comprises about 15% of total skin collagen; in older skin, ratio of Type III to Type I collagen has been shown to increase, due, significantly, to an appreciable loss of collagen I by some 50-60%. Although collagen I is the most abundant and significant collagen type found in the skin, the effects of ageing are seen in other types of collagen in human dermis.

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Extrinsic Ageing Nodular, leathery surface with blotches, yellowing Deep wrinkles Severe loss of elasticity Marked ancanthosis, cellular atypia Tremendous increase, degenerates into amorphous mass Marked decrease of bundles and fibres Markedly increases.

Thickened, elastosis Fibroblasts increased, hyperactive Mast cells markedly increased, mixed inflammatory infiltrate Solar elastosis Loss of vessels plus telangiectatic

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APJ 31

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Elasin being the other major dermal protein that provides elasticity, is also affected by matrix metalloproteinases (this time MMP-2). The phenomenon of sagging skin (elastosis) is in large part due to this loss of elasticity.

GLYCOSAMINOGLYCANS (GAGS) AND THEIR ROLE IN SKIN DENSITY ㈵

Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) provide the bulk of the dermal mass, and along with collagen and elastin are principal in conferring the outward appearance of the skin.

Glycosaminoglycans are polysaccharide chains (repeating disaccharide units attached to a core protein). While there are many individual GAGs, there are three that make the most numerically hyaluronic acid (HA), dermatan sulphate and chondroitin sulphate.

These compounds render normal skin plump, soft and hydrated providing the volume for the reticular dermis.

HYALURONIC ACID AND ITS ROLE IN THE SKIN HA is found in young skin at the periphery of collagen and elastin fibres and where these types of fibres intersect. In aged skin, such connections with HA disappear. It is the decrease in HA levels that contribute to its disassociation with collagen and elastin as well as reduced water binding being involved in the changes noted in aged skin, including wrinkling, altered e l a s t i c i t y, r e d u c e d turgidity and diminished capacity to support the microvasculature of the skin. 3

energy. Ultimately energy production is reduced or mutated, leaving the cell vulnerable to further mutation and increased ROS damage.

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Electron transfer to oxygen caused by ROS generates the superoxide radical that dismutates to hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), which is able to cross cell membranes easily. H2O2 is the precursor of the highly toxic hydroxyl radical that is generated in the presence of iron (Fe) in what is called the Fenton reaction. Due to the short lifetime of most ROS, the damage affects cellular structures close to the site where the radical is generated (i.e. sensitisers in or close to the membranes are likely to initiate lipid peroxidation affecting the lipids of the cell membrane).

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The ageing process is believed to be largely due to the formation and activity of free radicals, more correctly known as reactive oxygen species (ROS). Free radicals are composed of oxygen molecules with an unpaired electron and are engendered by several exogenous and endogenous factors, including UV exposure, pollution, stress, smoking and normal metabolic processes. Further, some evidence suggests that free radicals induce alterations in gene expression pathways, which in turn contribute to the degradation of collagen and the accumulation of elastin emblematic of photo-aged skin.

Under physiological conditions the cellular redox state is tightly controlled and ROS can compromise this homeostatic state.

While oxygen is essential to life, this is molecular oxygen (O2), which is frequently reduced to singlet oxygen (O), which is particularly prevalent in the mitochondria (energy powerhouse) of the cell causing disruption to mitochondrial DNA; in turn mutating ATP used for

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Damage to DNA is a major consequence of oxidative reactions that increase as the skin ages, and in cyclic fashion, the skin ageing causes increased oxidative reactions.

Guanine is the preferential target for ROS leading to the formation of 8-oxo-7,8- dihydroguanine, causing DNA strand breaks, and other less prevalent reaction products. These breaks can lead to mutagenesis, particularly to G (Guanine) to T (Thymidine) transversions, which have been observed in human skin cancer.

ROS not only interacts directly with collagen and other dermal interstitial proteins, but also inactivate tissue inhibitors of metalloproteases (TIMP) and induce the synthesis and activation of matrix-degenerating metalloproteases (MMPs).

Specific MMPs are induced by singlet oxygen and hydrogen peroxide (MMP-1{collagenase}, MMP-2, and MMP3{stromelysin}), whereas hydroxyl radicals and lipid peroxidation induce MMP-1 and MMP-3. 4

As one of the primary GAGs, HA can bind 1000 times its weight in water, and is essential in helping the skin retain and maintain water.

Interestingly, HA is also found in small quantities in the spinosum layer of the epidermis.

FREE RADICALS AND THEIR ROLE IN AGEING SKIN

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Many more biochemical changes affect the skin as it ages and actually causes the ageing itself that sadly are outside the size of the article to include – things like heat shock proteins (hsps), specific hormonal influences, which perhaps could be the subject of a future article.

TREATMENT FOR AGEING SKIN There is sadly not one isolated ingredient, product or treatment that can emolliate aged skin, yet there is much that can help reduce the effects of the aged skin, not matter what the actual age. ㄰

As a preventative measure, the one single product most important is sun block, not sun protection.

If we reduce the possibility of most of the damage to begin with, then we can more successfully work on the already created damage for improvement. If the client does not or will not use sunblock consistently, you will always be waging a losing battle, as regardless of the positive effects you achieve with the client's skin ultraviolet radiation will damage the skin more.

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APJ 32

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Moving on from sunblock, anti-oxidants would be the next to consider as anti-oxidants neutralise free radicals by supplying electrons, stabilising the free radical molecule in the process.

The skin is equipped with enzymatic as well as non-enzymatic cutaneous antioxidants. Endogenous antioxidants include vitamin E, coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10), ascorbate, and carotenoids, whereas enzymatic antioxidants include superoxide dismutase, catalase and glutathione peroxidase.

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Pycnogenol, a plant-derived substance found in many plant extracts, such as pine bark, grapes and apples, is rich in the potent free radicalscavenging group of compounds known as procyanidins (also called proanthocyanidins). A previous article I wrote for the Journal explains in detail the action of the procyanidins.

Green tea polyphenols (GTPs) exert a wide antioxidant capacity, particularly Epigallocatechin-3-gallate, a polyphenolic constituent of green tea.

These provide protection from ROS produced during normal cellular metabolism. Excessive exposure to UV radiation overwhelms and depletes this antioxidant supply, thereby leading to a state of oxidative stress.

This directly inhibits the expression of a number of the MMPs and is a potent inhibitor of leukocyte elastase, which is instrumental in tumour invasion and metastasis. In addition, GTPs have been shown to lower the levels of several markers of oxidative stress.

It has been shown that after a single low or moderate dose of UV radiation there is an initial decrease in antioxidant enzyme transcript levels in fibroblasts. The natural antioxidants catalase and superoxide dismutase both decreased and recovered only to baseline levels some five days later. During this time the skin is depleted of its natural antioxidant capacity, thereby allowing greater free radical damage.

There are a host of other molecules that have potent antioxidant properties, including curcumin, silymarin, apigenin, resveratrol and genistein to name a few that are now found in skincare products.

ANTIOXIDANT COMPOUNDS Coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone is a fat-soluble antioxidant found in all cells as part of the electron transportation chain responsible for energy production, and has been shown to exhibit antiapoptotic activity (basically keeping the cell alive longer).

While UV light is known to remove vitamins C and E, glutathione and co-enzyme Q10 from the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin, coenzyme Q10 is consistently the first antioxidant to be depleted in the skin.3

Perhaps the most commonly known are the three vitamins A, C and E. Vitamin E (α-tocopherol) is a free-radical scavenger, especially of highly reactive singlet oxygen. Being a fat-soluble vitamin, it is involved in stabilising the cell membrane by inhibiting oxidation of polyunsaturated fatty acids such as arachidonic acid of membrane phospholipids.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is, in contrast to vitamin E, a water-soluble vitamin that has been shown to induce collagen synthesis on the molecular level. It is also involved in cholesterol synthesis and iron absorption and increases the bioavailability of selenium.

The use of vitamin C in cosmetic products is problematic because its reducing capacity occurs very fast and its degradation may occur

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APJ 33

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under the presence of oxygen even before the topical application to the skin. Ascorbate derivatives, such as palmityl, succinyl or phosphoryl esters are generally used in topical preparations to overcome the stability and acidic issues of ascorbic acid.

REFERENCES As for Vitamin A, for years retinoids have been the mainstay of topical therapy for the prevention and treatment of photoageing. Tretinoin (all-transretinoic acid) is the ideal yet is irritating to many skins, so again chemical esters are frequently used for topical application.

PEPTIDES AND THE ROLE ON THE SKIN

For now at least, you may have a better understanding of some of the actual causes of skin ageing – in such knowledge are many of the answers in effective treatment.

There has been much written on these three vitamins so I will not articulate further on them in this article.

The recent wave of chemistry being used for 'anti-ageing' tissue regeneration has been the use of peptides, which while not antioxidants as such, have many useful effects on the triggers of ageing in being able to replenish amino acids.

The new generation of peptides such as “Lipospondin” is a tripeptide that activates tissue growth factors, while also inhibiting the action of some MMPs. Another interesting development of late has been “oligodeoxynucleotide” technology to block binding of transcription factors, which help reduce inflammatory changes due to tissue cellular damage.

Beyond individual ingredients, there is a wide range of treatments, products and equipment that you have at your disposal for the treatment of aged skin.

1. Hart, R. W. Daniel, F. B. 1980. ‘Genetic stability in-vitro and invivo’, Advanced Pathobiology, Vol. 7, pp. 123 -141.

2. Uitto J. 1997. ‘Understanding premature skin aging’, New England Journal of Medicine, Vol. 337, No. 20, pp. 14631465.

3. L Baumann, L. 2007. ‘Skin ageing and its treatment’, Journal of Pathology, Vol. 211, pp. 241251.

4. Trautinger, F. 2001. ‘Mechanisms of photodamage of the skin and its functional consequences for skin ageing’, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, Vol. 26, pp. 573-577.

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Terry Everitt is recognised as a Master Aesthetician in Advanced Clinical Aesthetics and lectures at medical and aesthetic conferences, both in Australia and internationally, while also being an educator in the development of quality assurance learning. He holds a Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetic Therapies) and a Masters In Education. He is also a consultant in legislative compliance requirements within the vocational education and training environment. Terry holds membership with the Australasian Academy of AntiAgeing Medicine (A5M), Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Australian Institute of Training and Development and the Australian Institute of Management among others.

He can be contacted on 0414 483 758.

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I performed an Intro Express the other day on one of my most crazed Dermalogica clients, I just used the Hydration Cleanser/Lotion and finished off with Timexpert Eye Duo, Serum and Cream.

1300 432 100

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www.germaine-de-capuccini.com.au

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ACHIEVING OPTIMAL RETAIL SALES Identifying and Overcoming the Challenges

By Tess Walls In the 19 years that I have been in the industry one question that I am commonly asked is “ How can I get my staff to retail more?” Because this question seems to be quite a popular one I will present to you in this article the five most common reasons that I have identified why therapists don't retail and, of course, solutions on how you can overcome these within your business.

REASON ONE: The Therapist is not sold on the product you are using

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If your therapists are not using the products that your sell themselves and they have not managed to get all their friends and relatives hooked on your product then it generally means that they don't appreciate, believe or love your product! It is very important that they believe in your brand and what it promises, and they can only do this if they have experienced what it can do for them. Not using the products for themselves will only lead to them not relating to them and not recommending them. I know that therapists will give any excuse, we have all heard them before, things like “I cannot afford the product” but I still recommend it to my clients”, but I can promise you that will not happen. It is simple, if they don't use it, they will not sell it!

being affected in this way and offer a solution to their skin needs. This will obviously include a treatment plan as well as a homecare regime.

Too many times we forget to look after the therapists who are asked to sell our brand, but if they don't have amazing skin and they don't believe whole-heartedly that your business is offering the best products and service then the conviction is not there and your business will suffer.

REASON TWO: They need assistance with consultation and skin analysis This is a big one! As I underlined above, the key principles to skin therapy is that all your therapists review as a minimum three key considerations when determining a client's skin: 1. Identify the PROBLEM that the skin/body is suffering from 2. Discuss the REASONS why the skin is experiencing these problems 3. Offer a SOLUTION to the problem in the way of products that the client can use at home and a program of treatments that will help them achieve their skin goals.

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So, what can you do to change this situation? The first thing I would recommend is that you sit down with each therapist and take the time to do a thorough skin analysis on them. Get them to fill out one of your consultation cards and ask them truthfully what they are using on their skin. Look at their skin like you would a client and identify the problems that their skin is facing, discuss reasons why their skin is

Obviously if the therapist is not confident is asking open-ended questions and they don't know how to identify the client's problems, the first step of recommending retail will not be achieved and this will in turn affect the successful retail recommendation and future rebooking of the client.

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So, how do we know if the therapists are having problems identifying skin problems? I would recommend starting by reviewing the information they record in the clients' skin analysis chart. If there is not much there this may indicate that their skill set is lacking in this area. Have a chat to them about it and embark them on a thorough skin analysis training. There are various companies that offer specialised training in this area, including some product suppliers and it is well worth the investment. Once your therapist gains the confidence to accurately and appropriately analyse the skin they will be in a better position to correctly recommend treatment options as well as products for homecare use.

REASON THREE: They do not understand the product that they are selling As the product you are selling is a huge part of the solution for your clients, it is important that your therapists understand how they can achieve results with all the different skin types. Sit down with each therapist and discuss what products and treatment they would recommend for the top five skin problems you see within your business, or alternatively assign them a task of putting together a chart for the products and treatment you have within your business.

Once your therapists have completed their “homework” ask your supplier for a similar chart. This chart should outline all the different skin types and conditions and what treatments and homecare solutions are available for those particular problems. It should also contain the key ingredients used within the products and treatments and what benefit these have on the skin. A tool like this within your business will help all your staff to be consistent with their recommendations and, in turn, help you increase rebookings and retail sales.

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SWiCH™ Dermal Rejuvenation Treatment

By Circadia

by Dr. Pugliese SWiCH™ dermal rejuvenation treatment is an innovative alternative to a chemical peel. The system is based on a physiological principle of inducing the natural repair system without the wound. Unlike most acid-based treatments, the SWiCH™ is a leave-on system.

The active ingredients remain to provide continuous repair and restoration. Treatments can be performed every 28 to 30 days. The SWiCH kit contains everything needed to perform 10 treatments, including take-home products and instructions.

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Phone Circadia on 1800 247 223 or phone: 0409 238 119

REASON FOUR: They do not know how to recommend If I had a penny for every time a therapist has said to me “I became a therapist to ‘help’ people not to be a salesperson”! My response to this is “If you are not identifying the client's skin and body problems and offering a reason why his/her skin is being affected in this way and then offering a solution to their problem in the way of homecare and in salon/spa treatments, then you are being unprofessional and you are not offering the client a professional service”.

I know this may sound harsh, but I really do believe from the bottom of my heart that this is the reason that thousands of businesses have closed in our industry in the past 2-3 years. Yes, we are there to care and nurture our clients, but our job is to assist them with their skin and body concerns. We are aestheticians and it is vital that we step up and offer our clients correct professional advice and the ultimate service.

So once we overcome the psychological block that the therapist has then we can start implementing a recommending system. We have our own retailing system that all Germaine de Capuccini salons and spas use, so I would recommend speaking with your product supplier for assistance.

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REASON FIVE: Your salon or spa dos not look like the place that sells retail Caroline Nelson and I recently did a series of seminars together and she said to the audience that if you want retail to be 40%+ of your business then you need to create a designated retail area that sells!

This was music to my ears as I have always said to my clients that “retail sells retail”.

I have been to many businesses over the years that don't have stock on their shelves. On the flip side of the coin, I have also met some amazing business people with very successful businesses and the one

thing they have in common is that they take retailing within their business seriously. If you want to sell a lot of retail your shelves should be well stocked, look great and they should reflect the message to your clients that you stock the best retail they need so that they need look no further for their products.

Speak to your product supplier or business coach to put a plan in place to create the ultimate retail space, and don't forget the lighting in this area. Make sure you look at this carefully as great lighting is like beautiful icing on the cake and it can make or break your retail area.

Once you have carefully planned and established a quality retail area and have identified and dealt with the above recommendations, you will be in a better position to experience consistent rebooking and an increase in product sales. Your business will also enjoy continued growth and move from strength to strength.

Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 19 years’ experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business step-bystep. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves importing her knowledge to others. She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional client services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success. She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including the Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems.

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If you believe that Tess can help you grow your business phone 1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876.

APJ 37

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YOU'RE IN BUSINESS So let's make it Profitable

By Caroline Nelson

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To me it seems that when I ask a salon or spa business owner how their sales are tracking their figures that many have every excuse in the world of why they are low. But generally speaking the blame is placed squarely on the shoulders of their employees. And while they may be part of the problem many other factors will be contributing. These may include a lack of sales needs investigation and solutions.

Clearly, high sales are an essential building-block to developing a business's financial viability. But then very few people going into business have a plan or projection of what these sales would need to be. And from experience I have found many are what would be termed

'accidental business owners'. By and large they have been excellent therapists who decided to go into business with heaps of therapy skills but big deficiencies in business management.

It would even be true to say that many of these people should never have been in business in the first place. But that having been said, we can all learn new skills. If these people want to stay in business then they will have to learn these new skills fast, or get someone else with the necessary skills to supplement any lack. And then there are many who have the potential to become very successful business people, all they may need is extra guidance, support and training, because it

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APJ 38

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would be fair to say that while not everyone is a natural at being successful in business many, more could be.

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So I thought I would write this article to help all those currently in business to possibly make some changes that would enhance their business and improve their success rate, and to prevent those considering going into business from making what could be many costly mistakes.

REASONS WHY YOU ARE IN BUSINESS When I take on a new coaching client I often ask them why they went into business in the first place. And the answers I get can be many and varied from: ! “I wanted to be my own boss.” And yes most of us do, but this means taking on the operational task of running the business along with the responsibility of staff and the need to train, inspire and motivate them to achieve targets. Because to be a successful business owner you need to take the responsibility of setting goals and target, which you need to do on a daily basis. ! “I love the beauty industry and want to make a difference to my clients’ lives.” And this is a beautiful ambition, but this could be achieved by just working as a beauty therapist in someone else's business without the need for you taking on the responsibility or financial commitment of being a business owner. ! “I want to be financially secure.” But what does that really mean?

What annual income will you need to receive to give you this security? What annual sales will you need to achieve this? And do you have a plan that will ensure you achieve this?

The answer that I would prefer to hear is “I am in business to achieve financial and business goals. And in doing so I plan to offer exceptional customer care, plus the services and retail that will not only deliver the results my customers want, but that enables me to achieve the high level profit my investment and efforts deserve”.

To my mind there is no good reason at all to invest in a business unless you want to make a profit, but to make a profit or to maximise profit potential needs expertise, focus, commitment and dedication. Have this, and at the end of each financial year you should receive a good level of bottom-line profit, and that is total revenue minus expenses.

To be successful in the aesthetic industry you need to provide what consumers want in both services and retail products. This means you need to employ staff of high-level technical skills, but then you need to provide them with the equipment, tools and products to enable them to deliver and maintain high standards. The trouble that I see again and again is owners who do not provide their staff with this, but still expect excellent sales. If that is the case then they are living in a fools-world.

It just can't happen without all the key elements in place.

ASTUTE CONSUMER DEMANDS

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Today's consumers are very savvy. They read, they are constantly on the Internet and they know quite a lot about the latest technology and expect the salon or spa they patronise to offer these services. They also know they can buy skincare online, so they don't need to come to you for their homecare if they can buy the brand you stock cheaper online.

You will only attract new clients and hold existing ones if you offer what they need and package it in such a way that it is unique to your salon or spa alone in your trade area.

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WHAT IS THE REAL REASON YOUR EMPLOYEES AREN'T SELLING THE RETAIL YOU STOCK?

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industry. The bigger problem, however, often lays in the fact that the wrong product range or ranges were stocked in the first place. They either do not fit the current customer profile or demographics of the location, or as previously mentioned, the client can buy it online.

There is no surer way of demotivating your therapists than to have them spend their time and expertise doing a through skin analysis, recommend the appropriate skincare, only to have the client go home and buy the products online.

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When deciding on a brand a number of aspects should be taken into account, not just the fact that the salon or spa owner personally likes the range for their own use, nor the fact that they are familiar with the brand. The most important considerations should be: ! That the product line delivers the results your customers want ! It suits their purse ! It will help build bottom-line profit and make you money.

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And you only make money if the products are sold and you have a high mark-up profit. So stop blaming your employees for poor retail sales, especially if you are not supporting them to achieve sales.

PRICING YOUR SERVICES CORRECTLY FOR PROFIT For some strange reason many people in this industry have an aversion to charging the prices their services are really worth. But isn't the primary goal of every beauty business to make a profit? However, many salons fail to achieve this because they are either too scared to price for profit or are not too sure about how to price their products and services correctly.

The indisputable facts are that price will determine how profitable your business is and how successful it will be in the long term. Setting prices too low and you risk hurting your profit margin, but also you may be risking customers perceiving your product or service as inferior to other salons or spas in the marketplace. At the other end of the spectrum, by setting prices too high you may lose customers.

A happy balance is needed where you set prices fair and reasonable for the type and position of the business, quality and range of services available. Balanced pricing equals the total cost to deliver the product or service, at a price the marketplace can sustain, plus making a good profit with sufficient reserves to reach your future business goals.

ACHIEVING A PROFIT As I mentioned earlier, profits are the key to any successful business and making money is what every salon and spa owner wants. It therefore goes without saying that pricing needs to fit with your overall financial objectives and to be part of your marketing and business plan.

So let's get real and make any changes you need to so that your business becomes a financial success. If you need help please contact me or call in and speak with me at the Sydney International Spa & Beauty Expo. I will be a guest speaker and my topic will be “The 10 Key Steps to Salon Spa Profitability”. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2012 ㄰

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry specific business coach specialising in helping salon and spa owners to operate super- successful businesses. Her Salon Spa Staff Policies Systems Manual is recognised as the “industry bible” and one of the most important tools any salon or spa business owner can implement into their business. To find out more about Caroline's business tools and coaching please contact her on 0410 600 440 or check her website www.SalonSpaBusiness.com

It is not just a lack of product knowledge skills why your staff are not selling your products, although this too is a big problem in the

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APJ 39

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BUSINESS IN BRIEF

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A snapshot of news and information for business owners ㈵

GST REVIEW BACKS RETAILERS TO PUSH ONLINE SALES An interim review of GST distribution has backed retailers in their push for the Government to address the growth of offshore sales by introducing a tax for imports.

While the Government has all but abandoned the idea, small business is still hopeful international businesses will be charged GST, with Council of Small Business of Australia chief executive Peter Strong saying the move is “inevitable”.

This isn't about fairness of sales any more. There is going to be a shortfall every year, and they have to fix it. This is the easiest way to do it.

The interim GST review handed its report over to the Government recently, with a full report to come later on in the year. Total GST revenue is expected to grow 5.4% a year by 2014-15 it said, but online sales are expected to rise to between 10-15% of all sales over the next few years. As a result, the shortfall in GST revenue will grow wider.

The report recommends implementing GST on imports, which could

Topshop Australia boss urges retailers to find a “point of difference” While the beauty industry may be cousins to the retail stores there is much that can be learnt about shoppers trends and business sentiments that may reflect what is also happening in the beauty industry. This news items from the fashion industry resonates valuable information also for the beauty industry.

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Fashion retailer Hilton Seskin has clarified threats to drop brands that engage in constant discounting, saying his store Glue wants to focus instead on brands that build “long-term equity”. They were reported, saying that “once a brand gets into the spiral of discounting and just looking for sales the value of the brand depreciates, and we don't want to be involved with brands that will be entering that spiral.”

However, he said the company isn't about to get rid of brands that discount, but instead he has taken aim at those not building brand equity and instead focusing on short-term sales. “This is not about pricing, because everyone goes on sale. It's more about brand equity.

“It's about building relationships for brands that are there in the longterm: Building the brand equity as opposed to becoming a clearance and discount brand.

include charging them at the source through card holders such as Visa or MasterCard or through other methods.

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The report also suggests lowering the $1,000 import threshold, or “a selfassessment model, requiring major offshore suppliers to pay GST, or collecting GST through overseas jurisdictions or card issuers”.

The Productivity Commission said in its report last year it would cost more than it would save to drop the threshold and levy GST on digital sales. But the review panel has backed small business, saying it supports efforts to crack down on the growth of international parcels not paying GST. Businesses say that with the massive growth of bulky mail, causing multiple financial and strategic headaches for Australia Post, a higher tax is necessary. Strong says he is “very confident” the Government will charge GST on online sales.

“I think as time goes on, we have won this argument, and it's not just about the fairness of sales, but it's also about the budget now,” says Strong. “It's going to happen. It's just a matter of when.”

“In this tough environment, there are businesses that are only thinking about the next dollar, and businesses that only want to operate through discount websites.

They don't have any sort of brand strategy.” Seskin also says they value the multi-channel model, but that successful retailers also need to focus on the interactive experience of being in a store.

“It's the whole experience of being able to shop online and then taking them back to the store, rather than them having to ship something back to a company somewhere else. It's the whole interactive experience, and we think that's where retail is going.

“The message is clear that to survive you need some point of difference.” To get that point of difference, Seskin says businesses must try to perfect the retail experience, including getting products to customers as quickly as they can. “I think the world has changed now. One of the most successful things with Topshop is that we are quick to market. You need to have quick turnaround, and it's rare that brands are able to react that quickly.

“Customers want products now, not yesterday, and that's how we combat this shift. That's where I think businesses like Glue can flourish and do more than just survive. We can deliver that experience to the consumer every time.”

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APJ 40

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Survey shows trust is crucial to buying decisions – here are six ways retailers can build it

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Australian consumers are spending their shopping dollars with only a few selected retailers that they trust, according to a study by IBM.

The study looked at the purchasing trends, habits and expectations of more than 28,000 consumers globally, including more than 1800 from Australia.

In 2011 the study found consumers trusted friends and family the most when making a purchasing decision (51%) and trusted retailers the least (3%).

However, in 2012 trust in retailers more than tripled to 10%. Ian Wong, retail and consumer products industry lead for IBM, says the rise in trust is good news for retailers. “It is about clear retail communication in all the channels possible and then execution in the promise you have made to consumers from a retailer’s standpoint.

“Anecdotally we have seen a much stronger realisation from retailers that they need to engage with consumers, and in an authentic manner. We have seen initiatives in engaging in social media and through their own personal website.

“This creates expectation of brand promise. Second, it is delivering on that brand promise. A few retailers have spoken about an omni-channel promise and if they deliver on that trust will increase.” But Wong says there's plenty of room for improvement for retailers. “Consumers have information now from multiple sources they did not have before," he says.

“Family and friends are empowered in a way 20 years ago that they were not empowered, and consumers are using technology in a way not imagined before. They are using it to form a view of the offers being provided through the retailers and manufacturers.” Russell Zimmerman, executive director of the Australian Retailers Association (ARA), says he is heartened to see trust in retailers was increasing.

“It is fair to say that people understand branded names so there is a view that some names are to be trusted,” he says. “It is being able to build that trust and value proposition and then have people talking about it.”

Here are the three key ways IBM believes retailers can increase trust: 1. Driving trust through retail communications, being very clear about what your brand message is to consumers. “Clear and comprehensive were the key factors,” Wong says. “The message needed to make people want to shop, be comprehensive and clear.” ㄰ 㤵

2. Bringing the value of the merchandise to the consumer through assignment. Consumers wanted a range of items and to have them at the right price.

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3. Driving perceived value around the product in a clear and concise retail environment then drives satisfaction. The most important things ㈵

for consumers were clear labelling and merchandise to be displayed in a way that made sense.

Signs of life in the retail sector Retail sales have posted their biggest jump in nearly a year, an encouraging end to the quarter amid industry hopes for a sustained pick-up after a surprisingly large interest rate cut last week.

The May data showed retail sales rose 0.9 per cent to $21.2 billion in March, handily beating forecasts for a rise of 0.2 per cent as households spend more on eating out and shopping for clothing and personal care. Sales for the first quarter were up 1.8 per cent when adjusted for inflation, snapping a run of soft outcomes and well above forecasts for a 0.5 per cent rise.

The $240 billion retail sector accounts for 18 per cent of Australia's GDP and is the second-biggest employer after the health industry, with 10.6 per cent of all jobs.

Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/business/signs-of-lifein-the-retail-sector-20120507-1y8ds.html#ixzz1uATdFTsS

And here are three key ways the ARA believes retailers can increase trust.

1. Retailers build trust by making sure they have a value offer proposition for customers.

Zimmerman says: “I think people have walked past retailers in the past and seen 30%, 50% off stock and that puts in the customers mind, 'Was it worth that much in the beginning?' and that is where we see trust go out the window.”

2. Taking stock back and returning it seamlessly when there is a problem and retailers assisting customers.

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3. Good service – good news spreads.

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Zimmerman says: “There is a story many years ago about the sale of a Lexus. A lady went to buy the car, the salesman did not talk to her about the car but found out she had a favourite musician. When the car was delivered there were six CDs of her favourite artist.

When she went to a dinner party and talked about it, the next question was where did you buy the car?

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APJ 41

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How to increase prices without alienating clients

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Here is a famous quote - "Competing on a factor other than price may allow a business to charge more for their product" ... Gareth Jones.

Increasing prices can be tricky at any time, but in the current soft economy small businesses risk losing customers if they mishandle the price rise.

Many companies are holding back from pushing up their prices, according to the latest Business Expectations Survey from credit agency Dun & Bradstreet. Only about a third of firms expect to charge prices higher than they were a year ago, while 13 per cent will charge less.

Businesses need to balance their need to increase profits against the risk of scaring customers away, particularly if they charge more than their competitors. But Dun & Bradstreet chief executive Gareth Jones warns against making what competitors are charging the only consideration. “Before a company determines how to price its product it needs to consider its overarching strategy. Essentially, this means deciding whether they want to position themselves as a low-cost provider or if they'd prefer to focus more on a niche area,” he says.

“Competing on a factor other than price may allow a business to charge more for their product because they are offering a benefit to the customer that is over and above what their competitors are providing.”

A key consideration that is often overlooked by small business owners is to how much they need to charge to cover expenses and make a profit. Small business consultant Greg Chapman says it's surprising how many businesses operate at a loss because they're not charging enough. “The first step is to understand your margins because you need to cover your overheads to generate a target net profit, and that's after you pay yourself a decent wage,” he says. Experts recommend testing the new price on a handful of customers before passing it on to all customers.

“You test the elasticity of pricing, you put it up a little bit and see if you can get away with it, then you put it up a little bit more,” says Kirrily Dear, founder of small business consultancy Eyes Wide Open.

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“We test on clients we don't mind losing so much, so you don't do it on your top clients because you could end up alienating them and really causing problems for your business, but we do it with the C and D type clients, the ones who you're not too concerned about losing.” Retailers who generally have to pass higher prices on to all of their customers can try out the increased charges on a quieter day of the week, when there is not so much custom at risk. Businesses can try raising prices in small increments, by pushing them up say 5 per cent initially, and if that sticks then by 10 per cent. Communicating the price rise to clients also needs to be handled sensitively. “You certainly don't want it to be a surprise for your major clients; if you've got some major contracts in place with clients you want to have a very good conversation with

them about what you're doing and why you're doing it,” says Dear. “In most situations, if you're a small business and they're a large business they understand the need for you to be financially healthy.”

In fact, customers are likely to know if a business is charging less than the market rate and be more likely to accept the inevitable price rise.

Businesses can use various strategies to make their price rises more palatable, such as bundling products together or introducing new or improved products or services.

Chapman, the author of the book Price: How You Can Charge More Without Losing Sales, says businesses need to break the link in customers' minds between the cost of production and the price. “If you can't communicate your points of difference and the value of your products and services, the only reason people will chose to buy from you is because you're the cheapest,” he says.

“You want the purchaser to focus on the value of what you provide rather than how much it actually costs to provide it.” For instance, service providers should consider charging a flat fee for a service rather than a high hourly rate. “With a flat fee, all they see is the value of a fee to solve the problem, whatever that problem is, so they're focusing on the value rather than the hourly cost of the professional,” says Chapman.

PRICING METHODS

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Cost plus: Adding a standard markup to the cost of the product or service

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Value based: Determine what the buyer perceives as the value of the product

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Proportional: Set prices in proportion to a larger project or sale Going rate: Charge the same as your competitors

SOURCE: Eyes Wide Open Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/small-business/finance/how-toincrease-prices-without-alienating-clients-201205041y2n4.html#ixzz1trGeoLUW

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APJ 42

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New Facebook profile design imposes new restrictions on SMEs, experts warn Social media experts have branded Facebook's new 'timeline' design for business pages as restrictive and potentially confusing for consumers.

Facebook introduced the new design recently, but concerns have already been raised that the new feature restricts how companies will be able to display messages about discounts or other promotions.

The new timeline design places posts in chronological order, so users can simply scroll down and view the history of an account's posts. But there's a bigger problem surrounding the overall graphic design.

Analysts point out that under the old Facebook design, businesses could use 'tabs', which divide up content into different types of pages, such as 'information', 'wall' and so on. Companies were able to choose which tab users first saw when they visited their page.

Another problem raised by critics is that the new timeline feature changes the page designs, so users have two profile pictures – a larger, wide-screen picture that spreads across the browser, and another, smaller picture contained in a box. The larger picture is called the cover photo.

In some ways this is a blessing as it allows brands to more prominently display their brand name. But Facebook has put some key restrictions on what can be used in this photo.

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“You can't include purchase information, you can't include contact information, or any references to features or discounts.

You can't even add calls to action,” an expert warns. That means you can't include a website URL, you can't include references to Facebook actions, such as “like” or “share”. You can do these in your profile picture, which is the smaller, square-shaped box, but this is much smaller than the cover photo and won't be seen as clearly.

The changes have drawn the ire of social media experts, some of which have slammed the restrictions. An expert said it’s unrealistic to expect that every business will adhere to the new rules, it is true that Facebook has taken down business pages before.

“Really, what they're saying is that you can have some nice pictures of your products and your brand name. But not having a call to action or anything like that seems a bit strange.” The new design has, however, earnt some praise for new features such as the ability to pin new posts for up to seven days, which allows companies to market specific deals or discounts that won't be buried under new posts.

NEW HORIZONS’ Canberra 2011 Full Conference Six DVD Box Sets

Now Available KNOWLEDGE IS POWER! If you attended NEW HORIZONS' CONFERENCE in Canberra and would like to review all the sessions here is your chance to purchase the DVDs for you and your staff.

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You can purchase the complete set of six DVDs of the six speakers attractively boxed for just $166 including postage and handling.

This is an invaluable tool also for those who were not able to attend, giving them the opportunity to gain from the knowledge presented.

Purchase before 31July 2012 for a special price ㄰

of $150

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To order please contact APAN on info@apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360 and order your set today.

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APJ 43

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN

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This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

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Regulators outline rules for food and cosmetics containing nanoparticles Regulators are proposing that food companies that want to use tiny engineered particles in their packaging will have to provide extra testing data to show the products are safe. The FDA in the US issued tentative guidelines recently for food and cosmetic companies interested in using nanoparticles, which are measured in billionths of a metre. Nano-scale materials are generally less than 100 nanometres in diameter. A sheet of paper, in comparison, is 100,000 nanometres thick. A human hair is 80,000 nanometres thick.

The submicroscopic particles are increasingly showing up in FDA-regulated products like sunscreens, skin lotions and glarereducing eyeglass coatings. Some scientists believe the technology will one day be used in medicine, but the FDA's announcement did not address that use. The draft guidance suggests the FDA will require food companies to prove the safety of any packaging using nanotechnology.

Under longstanding regulations, companies aren't required to seek regulatory approval before launching products containing established ingredients and materials, such as caffeine, spices and various preservatives.

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In Australia, nanotechnology regulation comes under the auspices of NICAS. According to NICNAS they are facing challenges similar to those in other jurisdictions. These include how to define nanoparticles, whether to establish mandatory reporting and labelling requirements and how to implement precautionary regulation for nanoparticles likely to be high risk for human health or the environment. Another important regulatory issue is how to promote nanotechnological research and development focused on national benefit, including assisting to resolve critical problems in public health.

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The concern with nanoparticles is that they have the capability to allow substances to enter the body's internal environment and for this reason they require more stringent measures for the purpose of safety. This is whey when dealing with skincare it is important to identify what the nanoparticles are actually transporting into the skin and to ensure that these substances are not toxic to the body.

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COMPANY NEWS – CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS Christina COSMECEUTICALS would like to announce that they are about to launch a new product innovation that will herald a new industry breakthrough.

While they can't divulge all the details, Christina has been hard at work developing a revolutionary product range that will usher in a new approach in the field of skincare and anti-ageing treatments, based on Genes Science and the detoxification process. Genes science and detoxification are two of the most important pillars of anti-ageing medicine and Christina Cosmeceuticals recognise that today's market requires products that offer benefits beyond traditional beauty to also address wellness.

For more information, please call Christina COSMECEUTICALS TOLL-FREE 1800 824 282

NEW HORIZONS CONFERENCE brings the latest education to regional Queensland The relationship between the spa industry and the medical profession has been rapidly evolving in recent years and the connection between beauty, health and wellness is gaining the recognition it deserves. Lasers, chemical peels, genomics and medical spa technology are gaining momentum not only in Australia but also in the US as supported by several reports. ㄰

At the recent APAN New Horizon's conference and expo staged at Townsville in Queensland, new developments were presented outlining the growing business trends and the latest technological developments that are shaping the industry's new identity. A full report will be presented in the next issue of APJ.

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NEW RESEARCH COULD SLOW AGEING

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Researchers at the University of Michigan may have unlocked the secret to fending off, or at least slowing down, the ageing process, the Michigan Daily reports. The key to anti-ageing lies within the synthesising of chemicals to increase calcium flow to cell lysosomes, which serve as recycling centres for cellular waste.

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar

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Produced by Terry Everitt, Aesthetic Educators 㜵

Jul22-24 COSMOPROF North America Mandalay Bay Las Vegas T: + 1 480.281.0424 x 3445 Email: cpnainfo@probeauty.org

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Aug11-12 Sydney International Spa Beauty Expo Sydney Convention and Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour T: 02 9422 2535 Email:

visit@internationalbeautyexpo.com.au

“The importance will be similar to the trash-removal system in our daily lives that includes trash bins and janitors,” Haoxing Xu, head of the research team and an assistant professor of molecular, cellular and developmental biology at U-M, told the Michigan Daily. “Increased cellularrecycling activities could provide a treatment for diseased cells with excessive accumulation in the lysosome and/or slow trafficking.”

Xu said research will need to continue for at least two more years before commercialisation of a drug would be possible. This research includes animal experiments, pre-clinical and clinical research, as the team tries to find ways to increase calcium flow to diseased cells. The benefits of the new research and potential drug reach farther than simply cosmetic.

“This work might provide an alternative strategy to treat lysosomal storage disorders and common neurodegenerative disorders,” Dongbiao Shen, a graduate student research assistant in Xu's lab, told the Michigan Daily. Ref: (www.cm-life.com)

Trends in consumer preferences in new patented innovations The cosmetic industry is currently experiencing a growth after a decline of 6 per cent in patent activity from 2010 to 2011, with a total of 6,082 inventions last year, as compared to a volume of 6,438 inventions in 2010, according to Thomson Reuters' 2011 State of Innovation: Twelve Key Technology Areas and Their States of Innovation. The industry's greatest single source of new patent activity came from the category of makeup (42 per cent), with 3,706 global patents in 2011, followed by skin (31 per cent) with 2,652 patents, hair (21 per cent) with 1,787 patents, antiperspirants (3 per cent) with 213 patents and perfume (3 per cent) with 212 patents. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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French cosmetic giant L'Oreal again holds the top spot for makeup patent activity in 2011, with 322 patents. Secondary recognition goes to Japanese-owned KAO Corp. with a volume of 147, followed by the Japanese-owned Shiseido Co. with 125 patents. Procter & Gamble (P&G) lead among the North American-based companies in the sub-sector of makeup with 44 patents.

The cosmetic industry is in a transformational period. The recent recession has taken its toll on cosmetics, as it has in other industries, despite the increase in demand for personal-care products for men, the utilisation of nanotechnology in product formulations, R&D investment in emerging markets and items devoted to anti-ageing. Innovation, as measured by patent activity, reflects more value-conscious consumers seeking solutions with longer-term results.

Aug11-13 Beyond Esthetics Tradeshow San Diego Convention Center San Diego, CA, USA T: +1.805.995.2604 info@beyondsestheticstradeshow.com

Aug24-26 6th Annual Anti-Aging & Aesthetic Medicine Conference Melbourne T: 03 98130439 F: 03 98130649 Email: enquiries@a5m.net Aug25-27 Face & Body Northern California McEnery Convention Center San Jose, CA T: +1-630-653-2155 F: +1-630-653-2192 Email: FBNC@allured.com Sept 9-10 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, California T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com

Sept30-Oct1 Esthetique SPA International Palais des congrès de Montréal Montreal (QC) Canada T: + 450 434-4738 F: +450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com Sept30-Oct1 Professional Beauty Dublin RDS Dublin T: + 44 (0)844 557 0914 Email: info@professionalbeauty.co.uk

Oct13-15 CIDESCO World Congress Swissôtel, Zürich Switzerland T: + 41 44 448 22 00 F: + 41 44 448 22 01 Email: info@cidesco.com ㄰

Oct14-15 Professional Beauty North Manchester Central T: + 44 (0)844 557 0914

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Email: info@professionalbeauty.co.uk 㜵

Oct15-17 Beauty World Japan West Intex, 1-5-102, Nanko-Kita, Suminoe-ku, Nanko, Osaka T: + 49 69 75 75-0 F: + 49 69 75 75-64 33

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beautyworld@messefrankfurst.com

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function of beta-carotene was published (Eur J Dermatol.

1996;6(3):219-38); and later in 2001, researchers examined the beneficial effects of the ingestion of a tomato paste 40 mg/d (lycopene 16 mg), showing the significant reduction in erythema induced b y U V l i g h t ( J N u t r.

2001;131(5):1449-51).

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Recently, a study compared the cosmetic effects of three groups of treatments with the carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin: combined oral and topical; topical application; oral supplementation (Skin Pharmacol Physiol.

2007;20(4):199-210).

According to results, all treatment groups showed a significant enhancement of elasticity of skin and the combined treatment showed a cutaneous hydration more pronounced compared to isolated tr eatm ents. The combined oral and topical administration also provided the highest degree of antioxidant protection, demonstrating a synergistic effect of oral and topical approaches.

Colorful Antioxidants in Cosmeceuticals Demonstrate notable skin improvement When talking about colour and cosmetics, most think of eye shadows, lipsticks and blushes; but beauty's colour palette is extending from shelf to plate thanks to nutricosmetics. Colourful fruits and vegetables are rich with two important classes of antioxidants – carotenoids (beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthi and astaxanthin) and polyphenols (anthocyanidins, catechins, flavonoids, tannins and procyanidins), according to a new study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2012;11(1): 5154). In fact, one report stated that antioxidants in cosmetics as the next meta-trend, reporting 44 percent of women buy skincare or cosmetic products that inhibit free radical damage.

“The market for cosmeceuticals continues with significant annual growth, but today consumers are more aware of nutritional products that contribute to both skin health and disease prevention," the researchers said. “In the last 10 years, pharmacists, chemists, nutritionists and physicians have been working together to develop new nutritional applications to satisfy people's needs and demands. As a recent result of convergence phenomenon between cosmetics and food industries, nutricosmetics is a blurry area unfamiliar to many consumers and sometimes even to foods and cosmetics experts.”

What's nutricosmetics’ major claim to skin health? Anti-ageing, i.e., reducing wrinkles by fighting free radicals generated by solar radiation. This is where antioxidants come in, as they represent the most crucial ingredients. The two main groups that were identified were Carotenoids and Polyphenols. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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CAROTENOIDS Carotenoids are a group of lipophilic molecules including the major components lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthin and beta-carotene, a provitamin A that accumulates in the skin providing a “goldenyellow" color. Carotenoids present in the skin have an important role in photo-protection against UV radiation. As a nutricosmetic ingredient, clinical studies have been conducted to assess their photoprotective capacity responsible for the prevention of premature skin aging. In 1996, one of the first studies about the photoprotection

The Brazilian researchers said carotenoids act as ROS acceptors and scavengers of peroxyl radicals, and consequently, they are able to interrupt the sequence of reactions that leads to damage in lipophilic compartments.

POLYPHENOLS Polyphenols are among the most abundant antioxidants in the human diet and are present in fruits, vegetables, cereals, olive oil, dried vegetables, chocolate, and beverages such as coffee, tea and wine. The most popular polyphenols are the flavonoids, a family composed by flavones, flavonols and anthocyanins, among others. Acting as cosmeceuticals, there are an increasing number of studies evaluating the antioxidant effects of herbal extracts incorporated in topical creams and lotions. Some phenolic compounds, such as epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) from green tea, have been shown to protect against UV-induced DNA damage and immune suppression, allowing this component to be incorporated in conventional sunscreen formulations to boost the photoprotection provided by the UV filters (J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc.

2009;14(1):56-9).

Acting as nutricosmetics, there are studies proving the effects of the extract of Pinus pinaster (rich in catechin, epicatechin, caffeic and ferulic acids, and procyanidins; as Pycnogenol®) on reduction of melasma (Phyto Res. 2002;16(6):567-71) and UV-induced damage (Free Radic Biol Med 2001; 30(2): 15460). Administrated orally, the grape seed extract (rich in procyanidins) was shown to reduce the hyperpigmentation in women with melasma (Phytother Res. 2004;18(11):8959).

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Cocoa flavonols also demonstrated photoprotective effects when orally administered, including a decrease in skin roughness and scaling in the high-flavanol cocoa group (JNutr 2006;13(6):15659).

APJ 46

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New Website Informing Consumers about Safe Dermal Therapies

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New dispersion replacing emulsions in skincare formulations A new website informing consumers about safe dermal therapies has recently gone live. The safe dermal therapies website was developed as an information hub for consumers interested in knowing more about dermal therapies, especially standard treatment protocols and the potential complications associated with most dermal therapy services.

The site will also have a search function available so consumers can locate a Qualified Dermal Therapist or Cosmetic Nurse in their location.

The site was developed following the WA Police media release making consumers aware of the unregulated nature of IPL treatments, especially male therapists treating female clients. The dermal therapy training college AACDS was asked by the WA Police to provide consumers with information about standard treatment protocols. “We started to receive too many enquiries from the public, so a consumer information website seemed the natural approach,” states AACDS CEO Luke Fernandez. www.safedermaltherapies is an Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) initiative, and like their recruitment division, is a free service for their graduates.

New MicroSperse technology was recently launched. The new innovation is a patent-pending process developed using physical interactions instead of chemicals to combine oil and water in cosmetic formulations. The innovation could be a significant interest to formulators because the physical interaction eliminates the need for traditional chemical emulsifiers, which can sometimes disrupt the skin's fragile barrier properties.

These new anti-emulsions or dispersions are over 600 times more stable than the particle size of emulsion and the particles are about 1/20th-1/50th the size of standard emulsion systems.

Further, there is a slightly negative electric potential that causes the particles to repulse one another, essentially moving away from one another to fill the volume of the container. These dispersions frequently have properties that are very different than traditional emulsions-based product due to the new MicroSperse technology. They tend to be thinner and have a much lighter feel, while also being compatible with a variety of delivery systems to create efficacious products that function well with greater ingredient stability. The process is also said to have virtually no environmental impact since it uses compressed air to create the particles and its by-product is air.

COMPANY NEWS

Skin O2 Smart Green Coffee Popular at the Gulf Food Exhibition in Dubai Skin O2 was proud to attend the Gulf Food Exhibition in Dubai, as part of the Gold Coast City Council stand featured in the Australian Pavilion to represent some of the best products from Gold Coast City. The show was a big hit for Skin O2 and attracted chain stores, nutrition stores, gyms, organic supermarkets and boutique food stores from across the Globe. Buyers came from business corporations from across the UAE, Saudi Arabia, Egypt, Iran, Holland, Russia, Pakistan and USA. Skin O2 Smart Organic Green Coffee was popular in the new functional health food and organic category and saw great interest from Gulf Food Show featuring Skin O2 Smart Organic Green Coffee the local market.

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Skin O2 found the food show patrons organic and health conscious and valued high-quality Australian food products that get results and have a unique difference.

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With obesity a major growing health concern in the Middle East and a culture with a passion for drinking coffee, combined with a lavish appreciation for luxury and lifestyle, Skin O2's Organic Green Coffee alternative was in huge demand.

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To check out all the hot Gulf Food Show snaps, visit the Skin O2 Facebook and indulge!

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productinnovations ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Clays for Skin and Body Wellness

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Chi Healing Earth BathTM has developed a series of exceptionally pure and effective detoxification products to cleanse, remineralise calm and sooth the skin and body, inside and out. These products have just been launched for the first time and have been formulated by Beyond Good Health BioNutrients specifically for spa and aesthetic therapists and health practitioners. Using premium, edible quality Bentonite Clay and Volcanic Mineral Zeolite designed to enhance the detoxification process, these products offer a quick and safe protocol to assist in skin improvement with a wellness benefit. They have been bio-energised with CHI Vibrational Program D30 for extra efficacy. These clays are suitable for body wraps, skin masks for skin rejuvenation and for inclusion in a bath. Also available in this range is Organic Magnesium Bath Salts with essential oils for detoxification, re-mineralisation, relaxation and wellbeing. For further information and to order these products contact CHI Health Innovations Pty Ltd Phone: 1300 390 337 Email

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chi@beyondgoodheatlh.com Web: www. BeyondGoodHealth.com.au

Skin O2 Slim Smart Organic Green Coffee

VOGUE IMAGE SIGNATURE REMODELLING FACIAL The Signature Remodelling Facial from Vogue Image is the solution when loss of firmness is the concern. This cutting edge treatment marries the next generation age-management device, ACCURA, with the trusted name in anti-ageing, SKEYNDOR. Re-educating muscles to contour, tighten, lift and tone, ACCURA's unique multi-phase approach combines advanced thermal high-frequency microcurrent lifting and an infusion of potent firming extracts using electroporation.

For more information on the new Signature Remodelling Session please contact 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033 or Email info@vogueimage.com.au.

PROBIOTIC DAY CREAM SPF 12

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UNSTRESS is one of the world's very few ranges that is based on probiotics. Probiotic skincare formulated by Christina Cosmeceuticals has been shown to positively affect conditions like eczema, psoriasis, rashes, skin allergies, acne, unsightly discolorations, and other skin ailments.

These friendly bacteria are gaining more attention for their use in skincare. Although they have a long history of use in promoting and maintaining healthy digestive function, recent research is also showing that probiotics play a role in maintaining our immune system. This also includes the healthy immune system of the skin, without which the skin is open to pathogens, inflammation, disease and

For further information on this and other Christina Cosmeceuticals contact SKIN FACTORS Ph: 1800 824 282.

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Formulated by Dr Atia, Slim Smart Green Coffee contains specially processed green coffee and LCarnitine, ingredients known to inhibit calorie intake and encourage the body to burn stored fats for fuel. Replace your morning coffee with Green Coffee, experience the difference and discover why everyone is raving about it! Best consumed 30 minutes before food. Fast and Easy – just 1 cup per day.

This product is formulated as a supplementary sports food for men and women who want their body to look and perform at the optimum level. Smart Organic Green Coffee comes in a box with 14 sachets each a single serve of 6grams.

To introduce the Skin O2 Slim Smart Organic Green Coffee in your salon or clinic phone SKIN 02 on 07 5593 4488 or email john@skino2.com.au Web:www.skino2.com.au

Age Delay Cleansing Oil With Rosehip and Tangerine Essential Fatty Acids from coconut, grape seed and vitamin E work to revitalise dry dehydrated and ageing skin in this luxurious cleanser - Age Delay Cleansing Oil, the latest innovation by Alpha-H. Lavender, rosehip and chamomile defuse and soften stressed and sensitive skin to leave it feeling soothed, soft and noticeably brighter, while aromatic tangerine oil helps awaken and invigorate the senses. Age Delay Cleansing Oil is free from parabens, mineral oil, sulphates, detergents and artificial fragrances and colours.

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Phone Alpha-H on 07 5529 4866.

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DASHING DIVA PROFESSIONAL

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Just add colour! ㈵

20 colours available for Fresh Wrap Plus

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Bring a twist this winter with the perfect French that lasts with a dash of colour. Dashing Diva French Wrap Manicure offers you non-chipping, long-lasting, perfect smile lines all in a simple application.

They provide a healthy, natural manicure alternative that is easy to remove.

For further information phone the Salon Group 1800 655 814 or email salons@salonsgroup.com

Are your clients reducing their wrinkles as they sleep?

Clinically-proven wrinkle-reducing new innovation delivers results in just four week. Infused with copper oxide in the fabric these three items can help your clients minimise lines and wrinkles while they sleep. Appearance-Enhancing Pillow Case, Eye Shades and Hand Gloves iron out wrinkles while you sleep. The CupronEnhanced technology can work wonders in miminising wrinkles in the hands, face and eyes.

Buy three Value Packs at $45 each (each pack has three pillowcases, eye shades and pairs of gloves) and get your choice of either three eye shades or three pairs of gloves for FREE. Offer expires June 30th 2012.

Contact CSHE Australia 1800 628 999.

COMODEX Advanced HYDRATING Serum

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COMODEX Advanced Hydration Serum is an exceptional oil-free, anti-inflammatory and hydrating serum that is ideal for acne/problematic skin owing to its wealth of amino acids and one particularly interesting ingredient HEXYL NICOTINATE. This is an ester of nicotine acid (vitamin B3 niacin) and penetrates the skin even better than niacinamide, helping to effectively reduce acne lesions, while keeping skin healthy and hydrated. Furthermore, unlike antibiotics, acne bacteria does not become resistant to this ingredient as it is a vitamin. This product is safe even for severely sensitive skin. For further

information on this and other Christina Cosmeceuticals contact SKIN FACTORS Ph: 1800 824 282.

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DERMA FILL FACIAL MACHINE Discover what's new in facial wrinkle fillers Dr Atia's Skin O2 Derma Fill facial is the latest no-needle and nontoxin facial to instantly help reduce fine lines, open pores and uneven skin tone. Loved by Hollywood celebrities and actors and dubbed the must-have facial to have before any close-up action! This quick 20mins lunchtime filler facial instantly lifts, hydrates and plumps the skin, while brightening the completion for a natural glow! After a treatment makeup will go on flawlessly. Treatment range from $100-$200. To introduce the Skin O2 Derma Fill facial in your

salon or clinic phone SKIN 02 07 5593 4488 or email john@skino2.com.au Web:www.skino2.com.au

Line n Grow

for gorgeous eyelashes Line n Grow is perfect for anyone wanting longer, fuller eyelashes. It is especially beneficial for those with short, brittle or thinning eyelashes.

Clinical studies have shown that the Line n Grow is safe for contact lens wearers and sensitive eyes.

Containing powerful antioxidants, polypeptides, Japanese Green Tea, Hyaluronic Acid and Rosemary extract, this incredible product will nourish, lengthen and grow lashes to their full potential. Line n Grow Tinted Lash Lengthener can be worn daily under additional makeup.

For further details contact Be Beauty on Ph: 1300 885 101

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Adam&Eve Lust Beads

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No.1 in Sales and Popularity Used in salons Australia-wide as well as Europe, USA and Asia, Lust Wax Beads from Adam & Eve are their number one selling wax. Lust has been specifically formulated for Brazilian waxing. It removes all the hair first time every time. Lust sticks to hair, not skin, and provides a less painful waxing experience. Lust is extremely pliable, pleasantly scented and can be used at low working temperatures. It remains flexible for a longer time so it removes easily. Lust Beads are pretty, pale pink beads designed for delicate areas and recommended especially for Brazilian waxing.

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Pink Perfection by Meticulous Pink Perfection by Meticulous has been a favourite for years. Therapists love the individual discs that do not have to be removed from a plastic tray, making them the easiest disc wax to use. Pink Perfection removes all hair types and is non-scented for sensitive skins. Packed in recyclable cardboard boxes it is perfect for environmentally conscious salons.

Meticulous Supreme Wax Meticulous Supreme Wax, formulated with titanium dioxide, leaves absolutely no sticky residue. Supreme is another salon favourite for many years, and is still the same formula loved by therapists Australia-wide. Perfect for use over the whole body, Supreme is the ultimate choice for Brazilian waxing and male waxing. It is available in pots and cartridges plus economical refills.

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ANGELIC STRIP WAX Adam & Eve Angelic Strip Wax is available in 1.1kg jars, 100ml fixed head rollers, 80ml replaceable head rollers and 500ml squeezy refills. Angelic is designed to be spread VERY THINLY and can allow you to do up to 40 leg waxes per 1.1kg jar.

Angelic is the pure white, 100% synthetic wax with a soft rose fragrance. Angelic contains titanium dioxide to reduce redness. Its non-sticky, creamy formula makes it excellent for facial and Brazilian waxing and will leave no residue.

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Jax Wax Adam & Eve offer an extensive range of salon products, equipment and furniture including, IPL devices. We also specialise in accredited and post-graduate training for the beauty industry as we value standards very highly. Come and see us at Stand 3820 at the Spa and Beauty Expo in Sydney where we will be launching our newest wax system, including specialised before and after ancillary products.

For further information on the above products contact JAX WAX PTY LTD Ph: 03 5943 2422 Email: info@jaxwax.com.au

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ORGANIC OCEAN Anti-Ageing Skincare

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Just launched on to the Australian market, Organic Ocean Anti-Ageing Skin Care is a small, ECOCERT® Certified Organic range offering the benefits of pure organic ingredients successfully combined with leading scientific innovations and cosmeceutical ingredients, giving you the best of both worlds and the most advanced anti-ageing benefits. The range utilises the healing powers of pure aloe vera as its base ingredient with an impressive composition of amino acids, minerals, vitamins and enzymes as well unique marine ingredients and powerful natural botanicals to enhance the skin's performance and renew its tone and vitality.

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ORGANIC OCEAN Anti-Ageing Night Cream This amazing product contains a special marine ingredient, Coheliss Bio, for firming and long-lasting anti-wrinkle effect. Rich in arabinoxylans purified from the rye seeds which is processed through organic farming methods. It boosts the skin's ability to defend itself and offers natural lifting properties. In Vitro studies demonstrated significant increase in the skin's synthesis of fibroblasts. Tests on volunteers demonstrated that Coheliss Bio reduced wrinkle depth and significantly boosted skin tone after 56 days of twice-daily application. Organic Ocean Anti-Ageing Night Cream also contains Aloe Vera, Squalane, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Crambe Maritima Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Jojoba and Olive Fruit Oil. Priced affordable and with no minimum opening order essential. For further details phone 02 6563 1678

Optimum Skin Essentials or email jayfarrell2@dodo.com.au

Organic Ocean Anti-Ageing Eye Lifting Serum Organic Ocean Anti-Ageing Eye Lifting Serum attributes its incredible lifting properties the mineral-rich unique Atlantic Ocean algae and other sea plants grow in harsh conditions. These plants have been scientifically proven to provide potent anti-ageing properties through their special protective mechanism that has been proven to provide incredible nourishing and anti-ageing properties to human skin. For further details phone 02 6563 1678 Optimum

skin Essentials or email jayfarrell2@dodo.com.au

ORGANIC OCEAN Anti-Ageing Day Cream ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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An incredible moisturiser Organic Ocean Anti-Ageing Day Cream provides incredible skin protection and restores skin vitality due to same amazing ingredients. Active ingredients include Chrondus Crispus and Palvetia Canaliculata, proven algae with powerful antiwrinkle effects. These act as wrinkle-filling agents by stimulating protoglycans and type III

Organic Ocean Facial Cleanser Organic Ocean Facial Cleanser is suitable for all skin types and is enriched with a special seed oil Inca Inchi, which is high in protein and very high in Omega 3, 6 and 9, Vitamin A and E. It provides effective cleansing while restoring the skin's natural barrier function. Excellent also for acne and inflamed skin as it helps to sooth and calm the skin.

For further details phone 02 6563 1678 Optimum Skin Essentials or email jayfarrell2@dodo.com .au

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Collagen. They have also been proven to stimulate hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycans synthesis, thus providing a volume-enhancing effect.

In vivo tests on 26 women with an average age of 57 shows impressive results: 15% reduction in the number of wrinkles, and 16% reduction in the total wrinkles. Contact Optimum Skin Essentials phone 02 6563 1678

or email jayfarrell2@dodo.com.au for further details.

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IPL – How to Achieve Safety, Efficacy and OPTIMAL RESULTS Mark Hassall – Senior Lecturer AKISS College IPL is a passion of mine having introduced it into Australasia over 16 years ago. For the past 26 years I have also been involved with Medical Lasers from both a biomedical and clinical prospective.

Initially, IPL was purely a medical cosmetic modality operated solely by medical practitioners’. Today the technology has been embraced by non-medical aestheticians. Its’ introduction into this market is one of the most significant advancements in the history of beauty therapy skin treatments. For the first time, beauty therapist’s can deliver within a single treatment dramatic improvements in the appearance of sun-damaged skin as well as treating an array of vascular lesions.

However, to achieve such results, the risk of irreversible adverse effects are not only possible, but probable when comprehensive clinical training is not undertaken. This risk is not only specific just to the non-medical providers.

It is unfortunate that IPL often comes under the scrutiny of the news media. It would be a pleasant change to see an item that focuses on the benefits this innovative technology has brought to many.

Unfortunately good news stories do not sell as well.

THE SCOPE OF IPL ㄰ 㤵 㜵

However, I do share the concern that IPL is unregulated and can be administered by anybody with little or no training. A major concern I personally have is, who is training the trainers? Often training is carried out by sales personnel who themselves have had minimal exposure and clinical understanding. When I look around the suppliers industry, I struggle to identify a handful of people having more than five years’ experience. Even many aesthetic doctors using IPL lack a good understanding of light tissue interaction.

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IPL is an art. Unlike laser, we are working with a broad spectrum of mostly visible and near infrared light. Just like an artist with their paint

and brushes, we need to learn how we can manipulate the variables (wavelength, pulse, duration, delays, energy, etc) to match both the targeted chromophore and patient skin type to achieve desired clinical outcome (paint the best possible picture).

It is surprising the number of operators who do not treat using a clinical end point as their reference. Often the training provided with the newly purchased system sets out certain preset treatment parameters. These parameters are set on a broad coverage of skin and lesion types. No clinical approach seems necessary and is done on the basis of an ‘administer and review two weeks later’ approach. This maybe acceptable if all the patients (clients) presented were of the same skin type, having similar lesion chromophore, density and depth, but we know this is not the case.

The benefit of IPL over laser is its ability to manipulate with greater control the variables (treatment parameters), so as to tune the system to match each unique individual requirement. Such an approach maximises the clinical outcome while minimising the risk, yet many operators fail to take full advantage of this versatility.

Clinical end points are subtle changes that often become more obvious with time. It is an acquired skill to identify this slight change that results in minimal risk of adverse reaction while providing good clinical outcome. A polarising lamp is a valuable tool to ascertain the ideal tissue response and clinical end points.

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IPL VARIATION IN OUTPUT There are very few IPL systems on the market that have the ability to calibrate their output energy. Professionals who already own an IPL know that from time to time treatment heads need replacing. This is due to deterioration of the head with use and no IPL system can escape this reality. Some manufacturers limit the number of pulses you

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obtain from a head, to minimise the noticeable deterioration. Systems supporting calibration do not need to limit their shots as the software will notify the operator once no further internal adjustment can be made to maintain consistent output energy regardless of the age of the head.

Without calibration, operators compensate for the decrease in power by increasing the fluence on their display. I find this an unacceptable

Under Treated Zone (UTZ)

The principle behind IPL is to deliver light as an energy source that is highly selective in its absorption of the target lesion to inflict a controlled thermal injury. I talk about achieving the desired clinical parameters using what I have coined “the treatment window”.

Treatment Zone

parameters in a way that was before not possible. The downside also means that without adequate training and understanding we can easily get it wrong.

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Over Treated Zone (OTZ)

but unavoidable solution. It results in incorrect record keeping as the recorded treatment energy (noted down off the display) does not match actual energy being delivered from the degenerated hand piece.

It also limits the operator's ability to become accustomed to their system as there is a constant variable. This drop in treatment head efficiency also poses a risk to the operator who has compensated for lack of results by increasing the displayed energy output. Some IPL systems do not even display this, but rather have a series of buttons that crudely increment the energy without any reference to corresponding joules output. Once a new replacement head is fitted the output energy will return back to the correct levels. If the operator fails to turn down the fluence at this point the risk of a serious burn is likely. I have always questioned why the FDA have insisted that all surgical lasers in the USA must first verify their output energy before being used on a patient, yet we require no such verification with IPL.

At the government-accredited AKISS College we are dedicated in educating like-minded aesthetic professionals in achieving the best possible clinical outcome from their technology. On a regular basis we run both government and internationally recognised laser and IPL courses that will help you achieve safe and predictable aesthetic outcomes. Education is the key.

The benefits of IPL technology has, to a certain degree, been its Achilles heel. IPL has given us the ability to manipulate treatment

Mark Hassall can be located at AKISS Laser and IPL Training College – Brisbane Ph (07) 3368 2065

As an operator, initial treatment parameters should be set so that you are working in the UTZ. Small increments in energy should then be made while monitoring tissue response. This will slowly advance you towards the Treatment Zone. It is the art of identifying the correct clinical end point that will assist in obtaining the correct treatment parameters necessary to stay within the Treatment Zone. Not recognising your clinical end point could result in pushing you over to the OTZ, resulting in an adverse reaction.

IMPORTANT INDUSTRY ANNOUNCEMENT

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APAN invites you to join in the debate of establishing regulations in IPL and Laser through our FACEBOOK interaction.

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Currently, the Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Agency (ARPANSA) is revisiting the issue of establishing national regulations for the practice of IPL and Laser for cosmetic use and has invited APAN to be part of its Working Group. At this point in time they wish to examine the evidence of what is happening in the http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page industry. We want our input to reflect your needs and recommendations this is why we need to hear from YOU. If you believe that you would like to assist by providing us with evidence of why legislation is needed please contact us and let us by phone or email. ㄰

We are also starting a Facebook discussion on this topic and would appreciate you jumping on and being part of this discussion. This is your chance to tell us what will work for you and what you want.

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APAN was established to achieve industry breakthroughs such as this. HELP US SUPPORT YOUR NEEDS! ㈵

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Join APAN on FACEBOOK and also contact us directly by phone on 07 55930360 or email info@apanetwork.com as we need to hear from you.

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anti-ageing ㄰

that includes personal fitness and endurance, diet and nutrition and inflammation diagnosis and treatment.

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As the author of The Longevity Factor, Dr Maroon is an expert in Sports Medicine, the principles of which laid the foundations for Anti-Ageing Medicine as we know it today, using individually tailored interventions to restore and maintain optimum health.

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We are delighted that Dr Maroon accepted our invitation to be interviewed with some compelling questions for the benefit of our readers.

Proven Strategies for Healthy Ageing and Longevity

An Interview with Dr. Joseph Maroon Part of any anti-ageing regime involves looking at strategies to extend the lifespan of the cells, whether these are skin cells or other cells in the body.

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Clinical studies are now providing us with mounting evidence that support the need for an integrative approach when addressing skin rejuvenation that aims at credible and noteworthy outcomes. But what information is science providing us with and how can we benefit our clients not only with their issues on skin ageing, but also beyond, through the benefit of longevity strategies.

Dr Joseph Maroon is a world-renowned neurosurgeon and Senior Vice-President of A4M (American Academy of Antiaging Medicine). He is an international specialist in the surgical treatment of injuries and diseases of the brain and spine. Dr Maroon is a staunch advocate of preventative medicine and engages an integrated approach to health

APJ1: Dr. Maroon, I understand that all ageing and degenerative processes in the body, including skin ageing, is characterised by low-level inflammation.

How is inflammation detected in the body and what are the biomarkers of inflammation?

Dr. Maroon: There are many biochemical factors that contribute to inflammation – cytokines, TNF-α, interleukin-2, interferon and NFK-b and these can all be measured, but it is an expensive process. However, you can identify inflammation in the body by looking at the skin (vascular condition, dehydration and wrinkles), hair and the weight of an individual.

On the other hand, from a dietary perspective there are factors that can contribute to inflammation such as animal fat, grain or corn-fed meat or chemically treated or hormonally fed animal meat. It is also a common factor that most people (60% US figures) consume inadequate amounts of fruit and vegetables and also consume too much sugar, salt and trans-fatty acids through their diet, all of which contribute to skin wrinkling, dehydration, cancer and heart disease.

As far as anti-ageing is concerned for the benefit of aesthetics there are four principles that should be considered: DIET: – A diet rich in protein, such as fish, fruits and vegetables, whole grains and a little wine, preferably red. A predominantly Mediterranean diet is the best recommendation, as is going low on animal fat and too many carbohydrates EXERCISE: – Adequate exercise, preferably aerobic, 30 minutes five days a week ENVIRONMENTAL TOXINS: – Avoid excessive X-rays and UV radiation, etc.

STRESS REDUCTION: – While some stress is beneficial, continuous stress releases a high percentage of the steroid hormone Cortisol produced by the adrenal gland.

This contributes to the deterioration of our vascular network, skin fragility and deterioration, as well as adiposity – increase in fat in the body.

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To reduce stress, exercise, prayer, meditation and spirituality are all important factors, as are strong family bonds.

Resveratrol – RDA 250-500mgs (found in Japanese knotweed plant and red wine)

All the above are categories as epigenetic factors and can be summarised as: ! Appropriate nutrition ! Exercise ! Avoiding toxins ! Stress reduction

Resveratrol is a powerful antioxidant that offers many benefits, which include cancer-fighting properties and weight-loss benefits. Also, it is believed that resveratrol works as an effective anti-ageing ingredient.

This is because resveratrol is thought to stimulate the Sirtuin gene (Sir2). This gene is responsible for reducing fat stores during lowcalorie diets. However, stimulation of this gene also seems to help slow down the ageing process.

These factors affect genes – good or bad. With the appropriate measures mentioned above we can turn inflammatory genes or molecules off, or activate them as the case may be.

Further studies are needed to determine the exact dose, however, 250500mgs a day is considered as a safe and effective dose.

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APJ2. In terms of nutrition, which naturally occurring compounds and phytonutrients has science identified as having the most beneficial effect on minimising inflammation in the body, and what are their recommended doses?

Dr. Maroon: There are hundreds of scientific studies that support the value and benefit of long-term use of several nutritional compounds.

THE MOST NOTEWORTHY IN TERMS OF BENEFITS ARE: Fish Oil – Omega 3 fatty acids DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) and EPA (Eicosapentaenoic acid), RDA1000mgs.

Through numerous scientific studies there is now overwhelming scientific evidence to support the health benefits of fish-oil supplementation.

And there is also general agreement between the experts that there is a deficiency of the Omega 3 fatty acids in our diet and this plays a significant role in the dramatic rise of lifestyle diseases, including heart disease, cancer and brain diseases.

There are numerous studies that support that benefit of improving health through supplementation with Omega 3, for example: ! Brain health: The brain is made up of around 60 per cent fat.

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Roughly half of that fat is DHA, the most important of the Omega 3 essential fatty acids, and it has a major role in brain function as well as brain development. It is also beneficial for conditions such as anxiety and depression. Studies from professional medical institutions like the Harvard School of Public Health have shown that many of these conditions can benefit from increasing your intake of the Omega 3 fatty acids.

The health of your heart: There are numerous studies that support the benefit of Omega 3 fatty acids for a healthy heart and those at high risk of, or who have, cardiovascular disease. Omega 3 assists in improving blood flow in your veins, thereby reducing the risk of heart attack. Fish oil can reduce the amount of triglycerides in your blood, which are blood fats very similar to cholesterol, thereby reducing your risk of heart disease.

Skin conditions: The Omega 3 fatty acids are also particularly successful at reducing inflammation in the body, and this is also beneficial for skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema and acne.

Many skin conditions can be caused by or exacerbated by inflammation, and the anti-inflammatory effects of the Omega 3 fats can help. One of the best things you can do for the skin as you get older is to increase the Omega 3 fats in the diet.

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Green Tea RDA 300-500egcg. This is equivalent to 3-5 cups a day of pure green tea (not the sweetened version in a bottle).

The secret of green tea lies in the fact it is rich in catechin polyphenols, particularly epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG). EGCG is a powerful antioxidant. Besides inhibiting the growth of cancer cells, it kills cancer cells without harming healthy tissue. It has also been effective in lowering LDL cholesterol levels, and inhibiting the abnormal formation of blood clots. The latter takes on added importance by providing endothelium blood vessel support, when you consider that thrombosis (the formation of abnormal blood clots) is the leading cause of heart attacks and stroke .

In terms of weight loss Green tea is proven for its thermogenic properties that help burn calories. Additionally, Green tea can even help prevent tooth decay! Just as its bacteria-destroying abilities can help prevent food poisoning, it can also kill the bacteria that cause dental plaque. Scientific studies have also confirmed that it reduces bad bacteria in the gut due to the presence of the compound Ltheanine. Green tea is a well-known anti-inflammatory and calming agent.

Lycopene – found in tomatoes and watermelon In a number of studies, researchers have found that a diet high in lycopene from tomato-based foods may be linked with a reduced risk of prostate cancer. Studies also confirmed that lycopene can also assist in lung and cardiovascular health.

Curcumin – RDA500mgs found in turmeric Curcumin is perhaps the least appreciated natural anti-inflammatory compound, and is found in turmeric. There are over 100 studies and on-going clinical trials examining the anti-cancer properties of this spice. It is believed that curcumin may be the reason why there are such low incidences of intestinal cancer in India, as they include a lot of this spice in their diet.

Dark chocolate – 70% cacao 100-200grms Chocolate comes from the bean of cacao fruit. Cacao beans have been used medicinally for thousands of years. Fresh cacao beans are superrich in antioxidants molecules that protect skin from environmental damage. There is approximately 10,000 milligrams of flavanol antioxidants in every 100 grams of cacao. Compared to other foods, cacao is among the best sources of antioxidants. Chocolate is considered as a health food when not taken in excess. Studies confirm that it can lower blood pressure. It also has calming and antiinflammatory properties.

APJ3: Tell us about the Sirtuin gene (Sir2) and its role in longevity and how can it be activated?

Dr. Maroon: In times of stress or famine the body turns into survival

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APJ5: What is Xenohormesis and what is its significance in health and wellbeing?

Dr Maroon: Xenohormesis comes from two Greek words (xeno =

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foreign and hormesis = rapid motion). Xenohormesis refers to biological responses to stress and explains how certain molecules such as plant polyphenols, which indicate stress in the plants, can have a longevity-conferring effect in consumers of plant. It was first used in the paper "Small molecules that regulate lifespan: evidence for xenohormesis." by Dr David Sinclair and colleagues from Harvard Medical School.

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If the plants an animal is eating are under stress, their increased polyphenol content may signal forthcoming famine conditions, thus activating longevity genes. This is the effect that researchers have observed from resveratrol.

APJ6: What is the most exciting research finding that you believe will offer humankind hope for disease prevention and longevity?

Dr Maroon: I believe that in terms of longevity the therapeutic effects of a calorie-restricted diet offers incredible hope for healthy living and longevity.

APJ7: Do you believe that genetic predisposition can be reversed?

Dr Maroon: No, we cannot change our genetics, but we can do things mode and the Sirtuin gene becomes activated to stimulate survival and longevity. Sirtuins play a key role in an organism's response to stresses (such as heat or starvation). We know that longevity is linked to a calorie-restricted diet, and it is now believed that this is due to the Sirtuin genes that are responsible for the lifespan-extending effects of calorie restriction.

Other than caloric restriction resveratrol has been shown through a number of studies to have several life-extending and health benefits in various species; it also increases the activity of Sir2, which is the reason for its beneficial effects. Resveratrol is produced by plants when they are stressed, and it is believed that the reason that they survive under stress is due to the expression of their own Sir2 genes.

Consuming plants that have survived in the wild will also allow us to derive benefits that have made these plants survive. In essence, that which doesn't kill you makes you stronger. Perhaps this is another reason why essential oils that are extracted from plants that are grown wild offer high therapeutic constituents.

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APJ4. The new classification of nutriceuticals is attracting a lot of attention for the purpose of wellness and antiageing. What does the word mean and what criteria should one use to identify a quality product?

Dr Maroon: Nutraceutical is a combination of the words “nutrition” and “pharmaceutical”. These are food or food-based products, which reportedly provide health and medical benefits, including the prevention and treatment of disease. The most important consideration is to look for a reputable manufacturer that utilised tight quality control not only in the formulation of the product, but also in the way it is packaged. Some products will lose their potency when they are exposed to light and therefore are best packaged in dark-glass bottles, etc. A reputable company that meets high manufacturing standards is GNC (General Nutrition Corporation). I believe you also have access to this company in Australia.

to activate genes that predispose us to a long and healthy life and protect us from being victims of genetically inherited conditions.

Studies now confirm that only 30% of what happens to our health is genetically determined, while 70% is environmentally determined.

Therefore if we gain appropriate knowledge on how to optimise our health there is no reason why we cannot live a long and healthy life.

Dr Joseph Maroon will be a Conference Speaker in Melbourne on 17th-19th August at a conference staged by the AustralAsian Academy of AntiAgeing Medicine (A5M).

DR MAROON'S KEY TOPICS will include:

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Metabolic Treatment of Cancer Concussion Management: An Alternative Approach to Brain Recovery and Treatment Cancer Prevention with Phytonutrients: Reviewing the Latest Research on Resveratrol, Omega 3, Green Tea, Curcumin and Lycopene

PRE-CONFERENCE WORKSHOP The Longevity Factor Friday 17th August 2012.

Dr Maroon will also present a special preconference workshop on longevity medicine.

Titled “The Longevity Factor”, the workshop is intended to review the topic of human longevity and specifically target past theories of limits to human lifespan, current research in this area and how advances in the study of the genetic controls of cellular apoptosis, along with the sequencing of the human genetic code, now can allow for specific targeted interventions to improve human longevity.

For more information and to register go to www.a5m.net or phone 03 9813 0439

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Can you imagine if everything around us was monochromatic and we lived in a world that was only black and white? Unimaginable isn't it!

Needless to say colour plays an important and major part in the decision-making in our world. We just have to compare the difference between black and white photographs to our coloured photographs of today, or the television – now they are also so amazing with their spectacular colours all with the “wow factor”.

Do we dream in colour or black and white? We select food, is it fresh or wilted – we can determine that by its colour? Even our moods reflect the colour we relate to e.g. feeling blue or red with anger, colours can reflect our emotions. Truly the desire to relate to colour is insatiable and intertwined in our lives in more ways than one.

COLOUR AND COSMETIC TATTOO

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The significance of colour is endless, especially the world of Cosmetic Tattoo. How to select a colour for eyebrows and lip tattoo is always the biggest worry and concern for a new cosmetic tattoo student/practitioner. Let me tell you, it doesn't matter how long you have been in the cosmetic tattoo industry, education is ongoing and even with my 27 years’ experience, selecting colours still can be an everyday challenge. The pigment

colour you see in the bottle, or if you swipe the colour on the skin, is not the healed colour result that you will end up with.

Tattooing pigment colours creating eyebrows and lips is not the same as applying topical makeup on to the skin. The colour you see in a makeup palette that you apply directly on to the skin is what you get, but is so different to the end result in cosmetic tattooing. It doesn't matter if you are a cool or warm undertone, sallow or olive, you can always add more or less topical makeup and adjust the colours without any concern. Knowing you choose the end result your decision is easy.

Not so with cosmetic tattooing, or semipermanent makeup procedures where the colour changes when it interacts with the skin's colour and the elements that affect its undertone.

This is a much discussed challenge in our industry, especially that we all see colour differently. I remember distinctly when I was training people in the early ’80s to become colour and Image Consultants how difficult it was for most of them to analyse and read a person's skin undertone.

Having them learn the

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positive and negative colour changes to a skin, with the aid of using a special designed chart with multicoloured skin colours, face frames (cool and warm) and colour fabric drapes (cool and warm) was very difficult. Cosmetic tattooing is equally as difficult, but on the face it is much more obvious and more permanent.

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Every practitioner should have a Colour Wheel which they can use as a baseline, with RED, YELLOW and BLUE identified as the three PRIMARY COLOURS.

they offer a beautiful range and the selection is extensive, no mixing required if you don't want to mix.

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Varying shades of brown are the prime colour used for eyebrow procedures. One of the most popular and successful colour mixtures I mix and use in my cosmetic tattoo practice is Medium Brown and True Taupe – the ratio depends on the result I want to achieve as to whether I use more brown, or do I use more taupe. For the people wanting a beautiful soft, warm brown use medium brown and sunny blonde for a beautiful colour mix with lasting results.

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COMPLEMENTARY COLOURS Pairs of colours that are opposite one another on the colour wheel and provide a high contrast are known as complementary colours. The complement of each primary colour (red, blue, yellow) is roughly the colour made by mixing the other two primary colours together.

The SECONDARY or COMPLEMENTARY COLOURS are placed in-between or above the corresponding primary colours on the colour wheel. Secondary colours are two primary pure colours mixed together...EXAMPLE pure yellow and pure red = orange.

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RED complements Green (green is a combination of the two primary colours blue and yellow) ! BLUE complements Orange (orange is a combination of the two primary colours red and yellow) ! YELLOW complements Violet (violet is a combination of the two primary colours blue and red)

TERTIARY COLOURS which is what we practitioners deal with mainly for eyebrows, are created from mixing one primary colour and one secondary (3 colours). For example, pure blue plus violet = blue-violet.

We are very lucky in these times as pigment manufacturers mix intermediate/tertiary colours for us, mixing a combination of powders in varying proportions using iron oxide, inorganic or organic powders.

For eyebrow colours, for example, what is needed is muddy colours and definitely no bright colours. Most manufacturers of pigments for the cosmetic tattoo industry are producing a large range of readymade colours to suit every hair colour. In the Academy Cleo and Derma range of pigments distributed by Cosmetic Tattoo Australia,

When two complements are mixed, white light components are subtracted and different hues of brown and grey are produced.

THE COMPLEMENTARY PAIRS ARE:

Photo A

Blue & Orange Red & Orange Yellow & Violet

Understanding and knowing how to use the complementary colours with pigments can be a "lifesaving" experience in solving a colour problem, resulting in having a happy client, which is necessary in the cosmetic tattoo business. If a wrong choice of colour was selected, for example, eyebrows may have healed too grey and have an ash colour, as demonstrated in photo A, which was in the light to medium range from the Derma Correctional Colour Kit. To correct this I choose Anti-Grey, doing two passes over the brows. I leave this to heal for four weeks and photo B is the healed result. You will note that the eyebrow colour has warmed and softened, which was the look the client wanted. I was happy it took only one colour correction treatment.

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Photo B

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Photo C

If the Brow colour had turned a very dark Black/Brown or dark Grey/Blue as shown on this lady who came to me for colour correction, I would choose the stronger orange colour in the Correctional Kit Warm Pumpkin to correct or neutralise the dark colour. I do advise the client that this colour correction could take approximately four treatments every four weeks, so we are going to be seeing a lot of each for many months. EXAMPLE...photo C is the depth of the Black/Brown colour before I started. Photo D is partway through showing the process. Photo E is the completed brow, the entire black colour was neutralised and I was able to give her a soft brown colour, which is what she really wanting.

After I created the new shape for her using Medium Brown I advised her to go to the ADA Laser Clinic in Sydney and "fine tune" the shape.

They did a wonderful job of skimming away the sides of the old badshape tattoo and now she is an extremely happy client.

Photo D

Often we get clients coming back after many years as their colour has faded to a violet colour. In those instances several treatments would be necessary using the Ochra mustard colour from the Correctional Kit. One of the colours that practitioners are seeing a lot of is eyebrows showing an orange or salmon colour after many years. I never felt this was a bad thing because it is easily corrected using the Anti-Orange in the Kit. Depending how strong the orange is will determine how saturated the colour is. I work over the brow with the anti-orange to give amazing results.

This was a very big learning curve, which taught me that we can effectively do colour correction with cosmetic tattooing without having to do removals with lightening products, or having to turn to laser or other aggressive methods. This information I am very happy to pass on to my students and practitioners in this industry.

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Photo E

One of the most important things that everyone must explain and emphasise to their clients, cosmetic tattooed brows and lips all need maintenance every few years as once is not enough. Colours will fade and they need to be refreshed, that is why we are seeing all these "not nice" colours walking around out there – especially in eyebrows. You

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will need to change what you are telling your clients.

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The best advice I can give every practitioner is to continue to learn and understand that colour range that you are using and the predictability of your pigments. With good skills and continued education there should be no reason you won't succeed every time with using pigment colours.

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Val Glover-Hovan is Australia's leading Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioner and Trainer. She welcomes enquiries at info@cosmetictattooaustralia.com or her Facebook page @valgloverhovan.

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ATTEND THE COLOUR WORKSHOP with Dixie Medford (USA- International Cosmetic Tattoo Trainer) Dates: 23rd and 24th July 2012, Booking Essential .1300 88 66 55.

You can also purchase some excellent books on colour from Val Glover-Hovan.

ASK FOR: Permanent Cosmetics – The Foundation of Fundamental Applications WAKE UP MADE UP – compiled by Connie Lord.

COLOUR WORKS in Drawing business to your salon If you want to inject some new life into your business through new bookings then consider the benefits of APAN Gift Cards, Gift Vouchers and Post Cards.

They have a collection of 11 different designs and themes to suit a variety of needs such as:

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Promotional Card Getting in touch with clients who have not booked for some time Themed Gift Vouchers for Mother's Day, Father's Day, Valentine's Day and Christmas Birthday Cards Thank you Card

These cards have been carefully worded to allow you to make a special impact on your clients and potential clients. They are in full colour with a high cello gloss that gives them a superior, quality, finish.

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You can purchase them in small batches or a mix to suit your every need. A batch of 50 cards is just $35, 100 cards one design or a mix just $75. Purchase today and we will send them to you POSTAGE AND FREIGHT FREE.

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APAN is working to add value to your business and support your progress.

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Phone: 07 55930360 or Email: info@apanetwork.com Visit: www.apanetwork.com and view the selection under Merchandising.

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bookreview ㄰

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This book presents a groundbreaking examination of new scientific research that holds the secret to weight loss, increased strength, endurance, memory, and a healthier, longer life.

In THE LONGEVITY FACTOR, noted neuroscientist and surgeon Joseph Maroon, M.D., offers the definitive look at recent scientific breakthroughs identifying a group of natural substances, including the much-publicised molecule resveratrol that can actually activate a specific set of genes in humans that promote a longer, healthier life.

These substances, which make red wine, dark chocolate and green tea, appear to stave off a wide array of age-related diseases and keep us feeling young and vital.

“If you are ready to start living and to stop dying, The Longevity Factor is for you. Dr. Joseph Maroon has applied the same intelligence and diligence that propelled him to the top of the neurosurgical specialty into writing this book. Leaving no stone unturned, he has created a guidebook for longevity that is both audacious and achievable.”

Sanjay Gupta M.D.

Resveratrol is the centrepiece of headlinemaking research being conducted at the Harvard Medical School and elsewhere. Only recently, however, have scientists discovered how to isolate resveratrol and concentrate it into an affordable and safe supplement. Already, more than 200 supplements featuring resveratrol have flooded the market, and there are countless more on the way. But which ones work best? What is a consumer to look for on the label?

Dr. Joseph Maroon offers the first-ever inside look at the amazing research that has led to the discovery of resveratrol and similar substances with the miraculous ability to activate our own longevity genes.

In this book he also offers his own diet plan and sound, reader-friendly advice for living a longer, healthier and more balanced life with or without supplements.

THE LONGEVITY FACTOR promises to be the authoritative source for everyone who wants to know more about how we can shift from the current paradigm of ageing to a disease-free golden age of health, longevity and fitness. If you are an aesthetic therapist and want a deeper understanding of what causes ageing and how you can minimise its impact this book should be included in your reference library.

neurosurgeon and chief medical correspondent, CNN

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Since resveratrol is a natural substance, can you get enough of it through diet alone, or should you combine diet with a supplement? And what lies on the horizon from the pharmaceutical industry? All those questions and many more are answered in this immensely informative and practical book.

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THE LONGEVITY FACTOR by Joseph Maroon MD is 368 pages and available from fishpond.com.au or amazon.com ISBN-10: 1416551085 and ISBN-13: 9781416551089

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industryregulations ㄰

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THE LICENSING DEBATE Identifying Regulatory Requirements of IPL and Laser Gay Wardle I was recently reading some international research that prompted me to think of some questions about the consistency of regulations for laser use throughout Australia and how would we rate if our current system of laser regulation was analysed.

framework for dealing with assessment of the non-ionising radiation of laser is a question in itself. Victoria and NSW are currently the most lenient States, with no end in sight to their non-regulation of IPL and laser.

In Norway, a survey was undertaken to look into lasers being used for cosmetic purposes and whether they complied with national regulations.

This variance in regulation in each State highlights the importance each State places on proper use of laser. So if the governments can't agree on how to regulate lasers, then how do we as an industry decide on what are appropriate standards that industry members should meet?

THE SURVEY FOUND:

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Lack of adequate training for operators of class four lasers At least 30% of the clinics did not meet standards Only 1 out of 41 clinics with a class four laser were registered with authorities A huge variation in the level of training delivered Safety for cosmetic laser treatments was indicated to be lower than required Lack of adequate training deviates from the national regulations and international standards

My first thought on the current Australian system is that there is very little in the way of consistency of regulation of laser and IPL in each State of Australia. In most States IPL is unregulated (other than Tasmania). Laser is more regulated within some States, but often it is regulated by bodies responsible for regulating ionising radiation such as X-rays in hospitals. Whether or not they have the correct

The risks and hazards associated with class four lasers used by unqualified operators can be serious. Complacency towards the operation of lasers can be dangerous and untrained staff can create significant risks for epidermal and dermal injury. As a laser operator it is essential to thoroughly understand laser-tissue interactions as well as knowledge of all the potential risks and side-effects. ㄰

Overall I believe the first thing needed is a regulation and training system that recognises the true knowledge and protocols needed to operate lasers safely and defines what level of education is needed for each treatment set. For a large variety of treatments beauty therapists have an adequate background to use laser if they undergo correct training in laser therapy. For more advanced treatments there should be appropriate restrictions. Defining this set of treatments correctly requires the co-operation and involvement of representatives of all industries involved in the use of laser currently.

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Once this skill set is defined the training system needs to encourage operators to become trained and regular update their skills.

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The UK currently has a system where the operators are required to meet a minimum standard and then refresh their knowledge every year. This encourages regularly updates of knowledge and also creates a pool of well-trained operators across the industry. Once trained in the core knowledge of laser use the training and regulation system should then demand appropriate training from the supplier of the device.

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One limitation we have in Australia with our random approach to regulation is that the onus for bearing the expense of training falls on to the business owners. If staff come and go it can become very expensive and time-consuming to bring new staff up to an adequate level of training. If we took a more structured approach to training we would have many training establishments in existence and a larger number of people within the industry trained correctly. In this situation the burden for training costs may fall more on the individual staff who will need to keep their accreditations current.

WHATEVER THE END SOLUTION I THINK THE FOLLOWING PRINCIPLES SHOULD BE TAKEN INTO ACCOUNT:

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Training standards should reflect the level of risk in treatments Training should be required to be refreshed regularly Manufacturers should be required to provide correct training for the devices they supply Devices should meet a minimum standard of performance and should be required to be serviced regularly to ensure they perform

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properly over time Various industry participants who use lasers in different states should come together to define a consistent approach across all regions of Australia

If this can happen we will have take a step forward to a consistent, fair and accessible system of training that delivers a higher standard of treatment to consumers across Australia.

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REFERRALS

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MacCredit is recognised as the largest financial lender to medical and cosmetic medical practices. In 2011 APAN approached MacCredit to make these services available also for the benefit of its members by providing affordable financial payment plans for clients of salons and clinics that can boost sales and business growth. A successful strategic alliance was established between APAN and MacCredit and this service has been an invaluable tool for APAN Members to sell treatment packages to their clients through a more flexible payment option, while ensuring that the salon receives full payment of the package up front.

NEW INITIATIVE ㈵

Now MacCredit is proud to launch the ultimate Internet Directory MACLIST. This initiative is the result of a growing database of clients that MacCredit has secured over the years - happy clients who have been assisted to obtaining an affordable payment plan to undertake their appearance enhancement procedures. These clients are

A New Strategic Alliance Partnership between APAN and MacCredit constantly on the lookout for the best and latest treatment and want access to the most qualified practitioners and this is where you come in.

YOUR OPPORTUNITY Each month MacCredit receives thousands of enquiries from prospective patients/clients many of whom have not settled or a doctor or a practitioner as yet. A listing on MACLIST will give you an opportunity to be introduced to these potential clients. MACLIST will capture “hot leads” direct from MacCrdit internet, Facebook, referrals etc as well as general internet search engine traffic.

Clinic listing will be:

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Displayed directly as results of searches matched on location, category and procedures performed Displayed as part of general category lists

MACLIST has deliberately kept their category and procedure list as simple as possible. MacCredit specific market research, along with years of experience, demonstrates that the targeted “off the street patient” wants an easy way to find a doctor or a clinic, and they do not necessarily know the difference between technical terms or procedure names they just know what they want fixed and improved.

If you would like your business to benefit from new clients through the MACLIST REFERRAL SYSTEM please access further information to register your clinic on www.maclist.com.au or email your request to peter@maclist.com.au and request the MACLIST/APAN SPECIAL OFFER.

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Michelle: I have always had an interest in skincare and had regular facials before deciding to take it up as a profession.

However, one of the personal reasons that I set up my own business was to be able to provide a peaceful place that we could also take care of people who need a break from on-going stress, particularly with chronic illnesses such as cancer or carers of people with cancer. I also want to provide that service to them free of any charge. My own experience in this regard is that my two-year old years ago was diagnosed with cancer and I understand firs hand the pressures that a carer goes through.

At times I wanted to get away just for an hour, but there was no such service available to me. This is why I want to create that service and make it available to anyone in a similar position.

My boy is well now and it is my way of wanting to give something back to others who are going through the same pressures and would value and benefit from a little quality care without the expense. I have also approached my suppliers to help donate some products toward this cause to help contribute to making this a very special experience.

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APJ2: What do you enjoy the most about your work?

Michelle: One of the most rewarding experiences is knowing we can make a difference in people’s lives by helping them achieve their skincare goals. Helping them improve their skin and radiate with good skin health and a sense of being looked after by caring staff is an extremely rewarding feeling. I have four excellent, and highly dedicated staff that I am so grateful for and so proud of, and together we create an environment that people can enjoy, while achieving the results they are looking for and beyond. You can't beat that!

MEMBER PROFILE

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We are delighted to continue profiling a different APAN member in each issue of APJ as this has been welcomed by many of you who have indicated your appreciation of this feature.

It would appear that many of our readers enjoy learning about other colleagues and discover who they really are, as well as their views and opinions.

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In this issue we talk to Michelle Lahiff from Beauty on Stanley in Townsville. ㈵

APJ1: How did you get started in the beauty industry and what was the reason for it?

APJ3: Tell us what do you consider the most important characteristics you look for in your staff members?

Michelle: I firmly believe that a love for what you do and passion is the foremost characteristic that is needed in a good staff member.

This is because with passion one is driven to achieve excellence and they consider the process of learning and providing the very best result for their clients is a joy and a pleasure and not a chore. Passion is the driving force that contributes to the achievement of excellence and results and spills over to give the client an experience of care they will never forget.

When interviewing a prospective staff member you can always pick the winners. They are always well groomed, neat and articulate and reflect confidence and a real love for what they do. On the other hand I interviewed one girl who came in with thongs, jeans and a T-shirt, and throughout the interview she was very vague. I really felt like telling her “Do you want to go home and come back dressed correctly and focused for getting this position?”

APJ4: Share with us a recent exciting result or experience you have had with a client?

Michelle: I recently performed a massage for a client and she told me

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that she had had hundreds of massages, but this was by far the best she had ever had. She rebooked not just for herself but also for her two daughters. That's what's makes our industry rewarding – to know we can make a difference in improving our client's quality of life and making them feel that our services are valuable and important to them.

APJ5: What do you do to relax and de-stress?

Michelle: This is an easy one – spending time with my loving and precious family. We are a very close-knit family, and I love and appreciate them all so much. My partner Noel is my sounding board.

I would be lost without him. I have three beautiful children, Tahalia 16, Tahne, 13 and Taharn, 10. They are the best kids anyone would want and I love them so much. I also have two sisters and a brother and we can always rely on helping each other and being there for each other. It is a wonderful feeling of comfort and nurture knowing that there is someone there that will look out for you.

APJ6: How do you manage to cope with business and family obligations?

Michelle: I was happy to spend some time as a stay-home mum and to give my children the reassurance in their own worth and potential.

While it is sometimes difficult to juggle work and family I must say that they are well trained and together we share the workload at home.

It is not uncommon for me to come home from work and find that my partner and children have done the washing, cleaned the house and there is a hot meal waiting for me and them to share. Noel is very supportive and helps smooth the bumps. Without him I could not do it. I am very lucky to have him. I also have the most amazing mother in the world who is 82. She is always so loving, helpful and supportive and we are very close. We have dinner together every night.

APJ7: Tell us of your favourite product at the moment?

Michelle: I love Germaine de Capuccini's Time Xpress SRNS repair night serum. It is loaded with excellent anti-oxidants – vitamins A, C and E and hyaluronic acid. It easily absorbs into my skin providing deep hydration and makes my skin feel and look amazing. I love this product and look forward to using it every time.

APJ8: Why did you join APAN and what does it mean to you?

Michelle: I recognise APAN as the leading and most credible

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standards body in the industry. Having APAN's support is so valuable to my business and a comfort and reassurance to me. They keep me abreast of the ever-expanding developments in the beauty industry. If I have a problem I can reach a leading expert any time – they are just a phone call away and I know I will receive unbiased, accurate and credible information that is well researched. I have found them very efficient and professional. Their website has a wealth of information and is constantly updated. I am proud to be part of this professional body and find their support and resources invaluable to my business. I cannot believe why anyone in business would not belong to APAN and receive the backing and support that can ensure their progress.

Michelle Lahiff is the director of Beauty on Stanley and is located at 145 Stanley St Townsville Qld Ph: 07 4771 3888.

other business documents to assist in running your business smoothly and efficiently and can be individually purchased at a small cost. The documents come under several categories included:

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In this category we include Code of Ethics, KPI to the Code, Cancellation Policy, Privacy Policy and Refund Policy.

Guidelines for Skin Penetration, Wage Awards etc.

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STANDARDS

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APAN Can these DOCUMENTS help take pressure from your workload ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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and save you time and money?

During our regular consultation with our members APAN has identified a new way to help you streamline your business by improving your professionalism and your compliance issues.

We have therefore developed over 45 RESOURCES DOCUMENTS that will take the pressure off you to have to develop them for yourself.

These documents and templates have been carefully designed to comply with the latest Government regulatory requirements as well as

POLICY Workplace Policy document and HR Policies and Procedures Templates.

STAFFING Small Business Fair Dismissal Code, Managing underperformers, Letters of Successful Probation, Unsuccessful Probation, Employment Record Sheet, Letter of First Warning, Letter of Final Warning, Letter of Termination of Employment (redundancy), Letter of Engagement fulltime/part time. We also have a complete set of Wages Templates.

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Starting your business Checklist, Trade Practices Act guidelines for dealing with clients and advertising, GST checklist, Succession Plan Template, Growing your business Checklist, Business Recovery tips and much, much more

Further, you can speak to an expert consultant who can guide you through the implementation process.

For further details phone: 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com

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2012 marks the 6th Annual AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine Conference together with the AustralAsian Integrative & Aesthetics Workshop in association with APAN (Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network).

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The AustralAsian Integrative & Aesthetics Workshop educates Aestheticians and Allied Health Professionals on the fundamental pillars of Anti-Ageing Medicine together with advances in the latest Aesthetic techniques, enabling delegates to integrate health protocols into their Aesthetic business for a holistic approach to the clients' wellness.

APAN CEO Tina Viney said the ongoing alliance between A5M and APAN would ensure that Australian Aestheticians are at the forefront of advances in Anti-Ageing Medicine and will enable Aestheticians to truly become an integral part of the evolution of healthcare to a Preventative Health model.

“Aestheticians are at the forefront of rejuvenation and are primed to integrate Anti-Ageing principles into their practice to achieve true wellness from within,” said Ms Viney.

According to A5M General Manager Helen Anton, “The launch of the Australian Government's National Preventative Health Agency (ANPHA), which comes into full operation in 2012, signals the need for all practitioners to review their approach to servicing clients and to adopt a Preventative approach”.

“The A5M/APAN Alliance through the AustralAsian Integrative & Aesthetics Workshop will provide world-class training on how to achieve integration of Anti-Ageing into Aesthetic businesses.”

“A5M's aim is to educate practitioners on the frontline of patient care about how to support a Preventative approach to health and beauty, be they in Aesthetic or Internal Wellness practices,” says Ms Anton.

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A5M & APAN Strategic Alliance

AUSTRALASIAN INTEGRATIVE & AESTHETICS WORKSHOP 2012 SUNDAY, AUGUST 19, 2012 A must-attend event for aesthetic professionals

“APAN is the most highly respected Aesthetic organisation, committed to continuing education, as is A5M.” “We are proud to have an ongoing association with APAN and look forward to another successful Workshop,” said Ms Anton.

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WHY ATTEND? “This is a unique opportunity for aesthetic therapists to gain incredible knowledge and insight from world-renowned experts on the advances that are currently shaping the aesthetics industry,” said Tina Viney.

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All delegates will receive a Certificate of Attendance, which will count as an elective of The AustralAsian Certification in Anti-Ageing Medicine. This certification program provides an in-depth clinical education on how to incorporate Anti-Ageing Medicine into treatment protocols.

WORKSHOP OBJECTIVES Learning Objectives: Principles of internal Anti-Ageing Medicine for Aesthetic practice Aesthetic Medicine and new procedures and techniques for AntiAgeing Aesthetic needs ! Nutrition and its role in Aesthetics ! Stem cells and their role in health and the skin ! New advances in Cosmeceuticals & Nutriceuticals ! The role of hormones in health and wellness and their effect on the skin ! How to establish and grow an Aesthetic Anti-Ageing practice ! Basic business practice: How to formulate your services for results and profit

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The Workshop will present eight, 45-minute seminars covering pertinent topics supported by the latest research findings to empower

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delegates with leading, world-class education on the new frontiers that will effect their industry both as a practice and a business.

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WHO SHOULD ATTEND?

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Aestheticians & Beauty Therapists Dermal Clinicians and Paramedicals Practice Managers Nurse Practitioners Cosmetic & Plastic Surgeons Assistants

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SPEAKER: Dr Alie Ajam (AUS) Topic: Hormones, Issues and the Effects on the Skin and Weight Dr Ajam is a Graduate from the Royal College of Surgeons/Physicians in Ireland in 1973. In 1989 Dr Ajam established the Bayview Medical Centre where he now works as a GP/Anti-Ageing Physician. He is a Conjoint Lecturer at the Medical School UNSW and is a Board Certified Anti-Ageing Physician and Fellow of the American Academy of Anti-Ageing and Regenerative Medicine.

LECTURE EXPLORES

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Understanding the role that hormones play in overall wellbeing and ageing Understanding how optimal cosmetic appearance is influenced by optimal lifestyle and a youthful hormone balance The key role that DHEA, oestrogen, cortisol, testosterone and thyroid is helping to maintain healthy weight and skin

SPEAKER: Dr Kamal Karl (NZ) Topic: Managing Nutrition for Optimum Internal & Aesthetic Health SPEAKER: Ms Debora-Dale Young (AUS) Dip Pharm, Reg PharmNZ, MPS, ANZCP, FAARM, ABAAHB Diplomate

Topic: Understanding Pathways to Ageing and the Impact on Internal & Aesthetic Health

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Ms Young is a Retail Pharmacist for 20 years, technical consultant for the natural health division of a pharmaceutical company, consultant and lecturer for her own business. Areas of interest include bio-identical hormones, hypothyroidism and disease prevention.

LECTURE EXPLORES

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LECTURE EXPLORES

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Dr Karl has been in medical practice for 22 years and has obtained postgraduate training in Environmental & Nutritional Medicine and in Cosmetic & Antiageing Medicine. He is a Fellow of the Australian College of Environmental and Nutritional Medicine, a Fellow of the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery and Fellow of the New Zealand College of Appearance Medicine and a Member of the Institute of Functional Medicine in America.

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Focus on the decline in the production of major hormones in the body, disturbances in metabolic activity, oxidative damage and functional deficiencies How today's lifestyle of poor eating and drinking habits, sleep debt and exposure to toxins is advancing the ageing process

The best diet for top dermatological health Understanding issues relating to gluten, soy and sugar and their relation to good health Understand the brain-gut connection and the role of digestion in optimal health function and skin condition

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PROGRAM

08:30 - 8:45 08:45 - 9:30

Introduction and Welcome

Debora-Dale Young

09:30 -10:15

Hormones, Issues and the Effects on the Skin and Weight

Dr Alie Ajam

10:15 -10:30

Questions and Answers

Panel Morning break

11:00 -11:45

Managing Nutrition for Optimum Internal and Aesthetic Health

Dr Kamal Karl

11:45 -12:30

Detoxification, Toxicity and the Effects on the Ageing Process

Christine Houghton

13:00 -14:00 14:00 -14:45

14:45 -15:30

Lunch Break Metabolic Disorders and the Ageing Process. Obesity, Weight Loss Treatments and Protocols

Dr Frances Pitsillis

Effective marketing for your business Marketing tools and Strategies.

Jo Burgess

15:30 -16:45 16:00 -16:45

16:45 -17.30

Afternoon Break Anti-Ageing and Aesthetics: Cosmetic Chemistry and Advances in Ingredient formulations

Ric Williams

Build your Business with Anti-Ageing Medicine Proven Business and Marketing Strategies

Gay Wardle

17.30

CLOSE

LIMITED SPACE – REGISTER TODAY!

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Tina Viney

Understanding Pathways to Ageing and the Impact on Internal & Aesthetic Health

10:30 -11:00

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A5M or APAN Member:$450 Non-Member:$500 Prices include GST.

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Win an iPad!

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All the latest protocols at the slide of your fingers.

Register before July 16, 2012 to go into the draw to win an iPad for your business

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For more information visit www.a5m.net

APJ 71

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SPEAKER: Dr Christine Houghton (AUS) Topic: Detoxification, Toxicity and the Effects on the Ageing Process

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Following 30 years in private practice as a Nutritional Biochemist and educator, Dr Houghton is currently engaged in doctoral research at the University of Queensland, investigating Nutrigenomic phytochemicals. Her clinical focus incorporates patient-centred dietary management with prescription of selected evidence-based nutraceutical and nutrigenomic medicines. In addition to her research, Christine is the Managing Director of CellLogic Pty Ltd.

LECTURE EXPLORES

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How to cleanse and detoxify the body The build-up of toxicity in our bodies from pollutants, metals and other lifestyle influences Understanding how the liver, kidney and intestines work, how they can function optimally and their relation to Detoxification and Anti-Ageing

SPEAKER: Dr Frances Pitsilis (NZ) MB BS (Mon), Dip Obst, Dip Occup Med, MACNEM, FAARM, ABAARM, FRNZCGP

Topic: Metabolic Disorders & the Ageing Process. Obesity, Weight Loss Treatments & Protocols

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Understand the importance of integrated software marketing in the Aesthetic industry from the world leader in salon and spa software.

Learn the role and scope of electronic direct marketing to achieved increased business turnover, efficiency all with control and security, be it for a small scale business or a multi-chain site operating from a head office.

SPEAKER: Ric Williams Topic: Anti-Ageing & Aesthetics: Cosmetic Chemistry & Advances in Ingredient formulations

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SPEAKER: Jo Burgess, Shortcuts Salon & Spa Software Evolution Manager Topic: Effective Marketing for your Business Marketing tools and strategies.

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Jo has been involved with Shortcuts since its inception. As a co-founder, her salon was the first to install Shortcuts in 1994 and since then she has seen many innovative technological changes within the salon and spa industries. Now as Evolution Manager, Jo is one of the key visionaries for the company, supporting its strategic direction and future product enhancements.

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LECTURE EXPLORES

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Advances in skincare ingredients and delivery systems Which New Generation ingredients supported by clinical evidence are taking skincare to new levels of efficacy.

Understand Skin conditions & Ageing; Factors which affect optimal health and appearance of skin extrinsic and intrinsic

SPEAKER: Gay Wardle Topic: Transitioning your aesthetic or spa business to a true Antiageing Model Protocols and Strategies for Treatment Success and Business Profitability

LECTURE EXPLORES How the correction of underlying metabolic disturbances that promote premature ageing are key to reducing Obesity Obesity and its link to hormonal issues, inflammation and allergies and protocols to assist clients How diet, lifestyle and nutrition impact on obesity and how to best support your client's health

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Ric has a Bachelor of Science in Pure and Applied Chemistry from the University of New South Wales and a Diploma of Environmental Studies from Macquarie University. Ric has 40 years experience in the industry after working for various companies including Sterling Pharmaceuticals, Colgate-Palmolive, S.C.Johnson & Son, LeverRexona, as well as operating his own consultancy business for many years. Ric is currently a committee member (formulation expert) on the Cosmetic Advisory Committee to the director of NICNAS (a division of the Federal Department of Health) and a technical advisor to Vogue magazine.

Dr Pitsilis is a Personal and Corporate Physician with areas of interest in longevity medicine, quality of health and life, illness prevention, occupational health and safety medicine, stress related illness, stress at work, burnout, chronic/difficult illness, hormones and menopause.

She is a regular New Zealand TV and Radio presenter on health topics.

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LECTURE EXPLORES:

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Gay Wardle is an accomplished educator and salon owner, the recipient of over 12 industry and business awards. She is currently completing a Bachelor of Dermal Therapies at Victoria University. Gay travels nationally and international teaching advanced skin analysis techniques to salon and clinic owners and their practitioners, as well as advanced techniques for the efficacious use of IPL and Laser for skin rejuvenation and hair reduction.

LECTURE EXPLORES

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New treatment parameters Demonstrate how to minimise risk using advanced products and procedures Identify the protocols when working with a medical practitioner The purpose and value of advanced skin analysis protocols Staff selection and recruitment Effective marketing strategies to grow your anti-ageing aesthetic business

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APJ 72

INVITATION TO PARTICIPATE SOFITEL MELBOURNE ON COLLINS, 19 AUGUST

WHY ATTEND

The greatest challenge we face today as practitioners is staying current with rapid advances in Health & Aesthetic practices.

Delivering optimal service & results is paramount to the health and wellbeing of our clients.

• World class speakers • Major topics in Anti-Ageing • Evidence-based Practice • New treatment paradigms & protocols • Enhanced treatment outcomes • Expand Your Credentials • Improve Your Professional Standing • Boost Your Practice & Optimise Your Patient Care

The AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine Integrative & Aesthetic Medicine Workshop 2012 is a unique opportunity to add evidence-based Anti-Ageing protocols to your business and broaden your service offering, presented by the leading practitioners in Anti-Ageing, Longevity & Aesthetics.

1 DAY COURSE, 7 LECTURES. LEARN THE BASICS OF ANTI-AGEING & AESTHETIC MEDICINE

WHO SHOULD ATTEND?

- Managing Nutrition for optimum Internal & Aesthetic health - Detoxification, toxicity and the effects on the ageing process

All health & Aesthetic Professionals who wish to improve patient care and expand their services including: • Aestheticians • Cosmetic & Plastic Surgeon Assistants • Dermal Clinicians & Paramedicals • General Nurse Practitioners • Naturopaths & Nutritionists • Allied Health Professionals • Pharmacists • Practice Managers

Metabolic Disorders and the Ageing Process

BETTER HEALTHCARE, BETTER PATIENT OUTCOMES

WORKSHOP SESSIONS Anti-Ageing Medicine & Longevity – An Introduction - Understanding pathways to ageing and the impact on internal & aesthetic health - Hormones, issues and the effects on the skin and weight Affects of Nutrition and Detoxification on the Ageing Process

- Obesity, weight loss treatments & protocols Anti-Ageing & Aesthetics - Cosmetic Chemistry & advances in Ingredient formulations - Best Practice & Techniques for Dermal Fillers & Relaxers Build your business with Anti-Ageing Medicine - Proven Business & Marketing strategies for your Business

FURTHER STUDIES This workshop will provide an overview of material presented in the AustralAsian Certification In Anti-Ageing Medicine.

The AustralAsian Certification In Anti-Ageing Medicine offers comprehensive post-graduate qualifications in Anti-Ageing Medicine.

The Certification will help you: - Integrate Preventative Health Protocols Into Your Care

Register Today!

Early Bird Special A5M MEMBER:

$450.00*

NON-MEMBER:

$500.00*

Special Package Deal AESTHETIC WORKSHOP + STANDARD 1-DAY CONFERENCE REGISTRATION Early Bird A5M MEMBER: Early Bird NON-MEMBER:

$800 (normally $945) $945 (normally $1,080)

* Valid only until 3 June 2012

- Optimise The Health Of Your Clients - Expand Your Post-Graduate Credentials - Boost Your Business & Attract New Clients For more information go to www.a5m.net

SPECIAL OFFER Integrative & Aesthetic Medicine Workshop 2012 delegates will receive 5% off their first module of the AustralAsian Certification In Anti-Ageing Medicine.

Win an iPad! All the latest protocols at the slide of your fingers.

Register before July 16, 2012 to go into the draw to win an iPad for your business.

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Cell Regeneration and Nerve Sedative at its best

NEROLI ESSENTIAL OIL

By Tina Viney

It is a common fact that many skin disorders are often triggered by an overstressed nervous system, and as a skin therapist you need to take into consideration systemic factors such as anxiety and stress when determining the best way to achieve effective skincare results.

Continued research into the healing properties of essential oils is now scientifically validating the value and benefit of these plant hormones in restoring imbalanced states in the body, and in particular their effectiveness on the nervous system.

When considering the issue of irritations, sensitivity and reactive skins as well as tranquillising mental and emotional stress in an individual, the essential oil that will not fail to deliver results is neroli, which comes from the bitter orange blossom.

However, to fully appreciate the value and benefit of pure essential oils we need to understand that each extract is in fact a formula in its own right. For the benefit of understanding the therapeutic properties of essential oils I will give you a brief outline of aromatic chemistry, as this holds the key to their ability to deliver incredible therapeutic properties for both skin and body.

THE CHEMISTRY OF ESSENTIAL OILS So why are essential oils so effective and what determines their ability to deliver benefits to the human body on so many levels?

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Essential oils come in minute quantities when extracted from a plant and are considered the essence of the plant or the plant's hormones.

When considering an essential oil it is important that we first look at its chemical composition. No two oils are alike in their structure or their effects. Here is a list of some of the main chemical constituents found in essential oils: ! Alcohols ! Aldehydes ! Esters ! Ethers ! Ketones ! Phenols ! Terpenes Each of these can be further broken down into numerous smaller units.

Take terpenes for example. This classification includes

monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, sesquiterpene lactones, Di-terpenes, etc. Listing and describing them all is beyond the scope of this brief overview, however, it is interesting to note that each constituent has its own action, or effects. For example, the ketones found in lavender, hyssop and patchouli stimulate cell regeneration, whereas phenols, found in oregano and thyme oil, are highly antimicrobial.

Because the chemistry of essential oils is very complex, essential oils are diverse in their benefits. This also supports their antimicrobial effects, because the wide variety of antiseptic compounds in essential oils makes the mutation of micro-organisms extremely difficult. In l985, Dr. Jean C. Lapraz stated that no microbe could survive in the presence of the essential oils of cinnamon or oregano.

The molecules of essential oils are made up primarily of carbon, hydrogen and oxygen. The aromatic constituents of essential oils are built from hydrocarbon chains (carbon and hydrogen atoms). They are normally joined together in ring-like chemical structures. The chains are held together by carbon atoms linked together. Oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, sulfur and other carbon atoms attach at various points of the chain to make up the different oils.

However, the aromatic ring structure of essential oils is much more complex than the simpler, linear carbon-hydrogen structure of fatty oils. Essential oils also contain sulfur and nitrogen atoms that fatty oils do not have. Because of this complexity pure undiluted essential oils can penetrate not only the epidermis, but also the dermis, and therefore can reach even the bloodstream. Unlike essential oils, fatty oils such as almond oil, avocado oil, etc, have larger molecules and are therefore used as carrier mediums for essential oils and do not penetrate beyond the epidermis.

The basic building block of many essential oils is a five-carbon molecule called an isoprene. Most essential oils are built from isoprene. This is the building block that makes up the terpenoids.

When two isoprene units link together they create a monoterpene; when three join they create a sesquiterpene; and so forth.

Triterpenoids are some of the largest molecules found in essential oils.

They consist of 30 carbon atoms, or six isoprene units linked together.

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Different molecules in the same essential oil can exert different effects. For example, the azulene in German chamomile has powerful

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anti-inflammatory compounds. The bisobolol German chamomile also contains sedative and mood-balancing properties. Other compounds in German chamomile perform still different functions, such as speeding the regeneration of tissue. This is because the chemical structure of an essential oil determines its function. Phenols generally create antibacterial activity. Carvacrols have antiinflammatory activity and Limonines are antiviral.

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CHEMOTYPES Another consideration if you wish to ensure optimum therapeutic constituents is to examine the specific chemotype of the essential oil.

The reason for this is that a single species of plant can have several different chemotypes based on its chemical composition. A plant such as basil grown in one region might produce an essential oil with a completely different chemistry than basil grown in another location.

For example, Australia is the perfect environment to grow Eucalyptus polybracea, which is extracted from the Blue mallee. It contains up to 91% of the natural organic compound ceneol, which is a monoterpenoid, giving it very high antimicrobial properties. On the other hand, Eucalyptus grown in a cold European region would not produce the same chemotype or the same therapeutic constituents. So there is eucalyptus and there is eucalyptus. Its chemotype and the region that it is grown in can render substantially different chemical composition and therefore very different therapeutic properties.

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The therapeutic properties of neroli oil are antidepressant, antiseptic, anti-infectious, antispasmodic, sedative, aphrodisiac, bactericidal, carminative, cicatrisant and cytophylactic. Neroli can be used to treat the following conditions: ! Depression ! Digestive Problems ! Dry or Sensitive Skin ! Mature skin ! Flatulence ! Headaches ! Insomnia ! Irritable Bowel Syndrome ! Nervous Tension ! Panic Attacks ! Stress

CONTRA-INDICATIONS: Neroli has antispasmodic properties and should not be used during pregnancy.

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FOR THE BODY The chemical properties of neroli essential oil can render both a

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Inhalation: To calm nervous conditions, slowly and deeply inhale a couple of drops of undiluted oil.

Application to the body: Dilute in a few drops of Jojoba or almond oil and apply it to the temples and solar plexus.

Perfume: Because of its pleasant aroma it can also be used as a natural perfume.

Neroli essential oil has also been noted as a tonic for the female reproductive system. For relief of menstrual cramps dilute up to 10% in Apricot kernel oil and massage into the abdomen.

THERAPEUTIC PROPERTIES AND USES

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Now let's look at neroli. Extracted from the very small white flowers of the bitter orange neroli (Citrus aurantium) it has a very delicate aroma similar to bergamot and offers incredible cell-renewing properties as well as sedative properties on the nervous system.

The main chemical components of neroli oil are a-pinene, camphene, b-pinene, a-terpinene, nerol, neryl acetate, farnesol, geraniol, linalool, nerolidol, linalyl acetate, methyl anthranilate and indole.

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HERE ARE SOME SIMPLE WAYS TO BENEFIT THE NERVOUS SYSTEM:

NEROLI ESSENTIAL OIL

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION

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According to Dr Daniel Penoell it is one of the best oils to restore tranquillity after a sudden shock. Neroli's calming effect can be attributed to its high percentages of linaloon and its a-terpinene.

The anti-bacterial, anti-parasitic and anti-spasmodic properties of neroli oil make it also supportive for intestinal disorders. Neroli oil can also be beneficial to the digestive tract. It can be used for intestinal spasms, colitis and diarrhoea. Again, use in a bath or dilute and massage into the abdomen. Abdominal massage with neroli may be most effective when the stomach trouble is the result of stress.

Neroli is produced by water distillation as opposed to steam distillation – as the fragrance is too delicate and would be denatured by the higher temperatures of steam.

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sedative and an overall tonic effect to the nervous system, and can be beneficial for most stress-related disorders of an emotional origin.

The oil has been said to treat heart palpitations, relieve insomnia, headaches, reduce nervousness and chronic anxiety and relieve neuralgia and vertigo. It can help when a patient is convalescing and is a good general tonic.

FOR THE SKIN Neroli oil can help to regenerate skin-cell renewal. Its rejuvenating properties make it useful in preventing scar tissue after surgery, promoting a smoother skin, fighting stretch marks and broken capillaries.

In skincare neroli is one of the premier oils for treating ageing and mature skin conditions (along with Rose Otto and Clary Sage). The relaxing properties are imparted on a cellular level, and the oil is especially beneficial also for sensitive, reactive or allergic skin types.

Salvatore Battaglia notes in The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy: "The oil is reputed to have a rejuvenating effect on the skin, as it has an ability to stimulate the growth of new and healthy cells."

DOSES As neroli is a very expensive oil, be careful as it is sometimes “extended” with pettigrain (which is extracted from the stem of the orange blossom), which has a compatible aroma, but very different properties. It is therefore recommended that you purchase neroli from reputable wholesale aromatherapy suppliers such as Essential Therapeutics, who offer a therapeutic-grade essential oil quality guarantee. They are based in Melbourne and can be contacted on Phone: 03 8795 7720. Being a base note neroli only requires a 1-2% concentrate in a carrier oil to deliver a skin treatment.

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REFERENCES: Essential Oil Chemistry by D. Williams.

Lavandes and Lavandins by Christiane Meunier, Aix-en-Provence 1985.

Phytochemical Dictionary edited by Jeffrey B. Harborne and Herbert Baxter.

Journal of Essential Oil Research (JEOR) Ph: 630 6532155 Fx: 630 653 2192.

Aromatherapie by Jean Valnet, M.D., Healing Arts Press, Rochester, VT, 1982.

Aromatherapy by René-Maurice Gattefossé, Ph.D., Girardot, Paris 1937.

L'aromathérapie exactement by Daniel Pénoël, M.D., and Pierre Franchomme.

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The Evidence for the Herbs in HERBAL ACTIV PEEL

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Name: SPIRULINA Spirulina Maxima Description: A microscopic blue-green algae in the shape of a spiral coil.

Properties and Action: Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and

Skin peeling or resurfacing is an important

immune modulating properties. Contains high protein (up to 77%) and all the essential amino acids, including vitamins B1, B2, B3, B9, C, D, A and E. Is rich in minerals potassium, calcium, chromium, copper, iron, magnesium, manganese, phosphorous, selenium, sodium and zinc.

and time-proven procedure that supports cell renewal, regeneration and also facilitates a deeper and more efficacious penetration of active ingredients. As we know, there are numerous methodologies for option on how to achieve this at varying

Name: GINSENG Panax Ginseng Description: A slow-growing perennial plant with fleshy

depths. Some include microdermabrasion,

roots.

laser resurfacing, AHAs and a variety of

Properties and Action: Anti-carcinogenic and antioxidant

chemical peels and enzyme peels.

action, increased blood flow, stimulates cell renewal and regeneration.

While the value and benefit of green peels is also widely recognised, many are not aware of the elements that make this peel

Name: Fenugreek Trigonella Foenum Graecum Description: An annual herb that has white flowers and

so successful.

aromatic seeds.

article we will look at Herbal Activ Peel

Properties and Action: Contains protein, Vitamins C, E, niacin and potassium.

It also has phyto-oestrogenic properties and is used as a herbal remedy for wrinkles, dryness, blackheads, rashes and pimples, eczema and burns.

For the purpose of this

TM that offers effective skin renewal in just five days.

While ablative light-based treatments are highly effective they can weaken the skin's

Name: MARSHMELLOW Althaea officinalis Description: A medicinal ornamental plant.

Properties and Action: Renowned for its expectorant, diuretic, vulnerary and emollient properties. Used for ulcers, abscesses and boils.

pilosebaceous units and give the skin a pale “plastic look” if overused.

Herbal peels work from the opposite end of the spectrum. The skin naturally renews itself every 28-35 days. We now know that

Name: CALENDULA Calendula officinalis Description: An aromatic perennial plant used for treating

a herbal peel can significantly shorten this natural renewal process.

skin disorders and pain.

Properties and Action: Calendula provides the skin with antibacterial, anti-fungal and anti-inflammatory properties for the treatment of dermatitis, skin infections, cuts, burns and chafed skin. The petals and pollen contain triperpenoid esthers (anti-inflammatory) and carotenoid flavoxanthin and auroxanthin, which are potent antioxidants.

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The initial peeling treatment takes one hour and should be performed by a qualified and trained aesthetic therapist.

The client leaves the salon with their skin evident at this stage with the face having a

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Name: CHAMOMILE Matricaria recutita Description: An annual plant known as German Chamomile.

Properties and Action: Anti-inflammatory properties and

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speeds healing. In vitro, chamomile has demonstrated moderate antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.

glow similar to a workout at the gym and

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the skin feels slightly tight as it would from a mild sunburn. When the skin is touched the client can feel the tiny herbal particles

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embedded into it. These herb particles will dissolve in the skin over the next two days.

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fully intact. An immediate improvement is

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on t n e igh e s As y Ton a d o T

Herbal Aktiv Peel® from Alex Cosmetic in Germany is a skin resurfacing treatment based entirely upon dried, crushed herbs. The Herbal Aktiv Peel®: • Does not contain any synthetic acids or abrasives.

• Has a 50 year history of proven results with a wide variety of skin conditions.

• Does not injure the skin in order to cause the peeling.

The Herbal Aktiv Peel® will help your skin appear visibly improved, finer in texture, clearer and younger in just 5 days.

® Herbal Aktiv Peel is suitable for:

• • • •

Wrinkles Sun Damage Scarring Pigmentation

• • • •

Acne/Pimples Enlarged Pores Blackheads/Milia Stretch Marks

Crow’s Feet

BEFORE

Pigmentation

AFTER

Result achieved after 1 treatment Courtesy of Vogue Beauty Clinic, Launceston TAS

BEFORE

Result achieved after 3 treatments

Available only from accredited skin clinics Australia wide.

For more information visit omniderm.com.au or call 1300 301 007

AFTER

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Name: PANSY Viola tricolor hortensis Description: Biennial hyrib plant used in herbal medicine.

Properties and Action: Anti-inflammatory properties have

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In the process they will release their bioactive properties, which include oxidant properties.

Name: LARGE-LEAF LINDEN Tilia platyphyllos Description: Linden comes from a deciduous tree native to

in herbal peel that are massaged into the

much of Europe. Its flowers, leaves, wood and charcoal are used for medicinal purposes.

Properties and Action: Active ingredient includes flavanoids and volatile oils that soothe and reduce inflammation. The plant also contains tannin that can act as an astringent.

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Unlike chemical peels, which only reach the top layers of the skin, actives contained

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vitamins, mineral, trace elements and anti-

been used in herbal medicine. Applied externally it has been very successful in relieving scabs, itching and ulcers as well as eczema and has also been used traditionally for acne and any condition where inflammation is present.

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skin will be released over an extended period of time and therefore available to

the skin for much longer. It's like a “timerelease” of a concentrated supply of potent and medicinal-grade herbs that release their properties to resurface and rejuvenate the skin, this explains the superior

Name: LEMON BALM Melissa officinalis Description: A parennial herb in the mint family with a gentle lemon scent.

Properties and Action: Renowned for its antibacterial and antiviral properties. It also contains terpenes that add to its calming and soothing effect.

outcome of the Herbal Aktiv Peel.

Another fundamental advantage of the Herbal Active Peel is that the old skin stays in place while the new skin regenerates.

The developing new skin is protected until

Name: LUNGWORT Pulmonaria officinalis Description: An evergreen and flowering herb cultivated as a

environment without ill effects. For this

medical herb.

reason clients are instructed never to fore

Properties and Action: Traditionally used for wound therapy and as a diuretic, also for skin infections, inflammation and burns. It is rich in flavonoids, glycosides, tannins and iridoids that all have strong antioxidiant and anti-inflammatory properties.

cause it to detach as soon as the new skin is

it is ready to force the external

off the old skin prematurely. Nature will ready.

The uniqueness of the Herbal Active Peel

Name: FIELD HORSETAIL Equiset marvense Description: A bushy perennial with medicinal properties.

Properties and Action: It has abrasive properties due to silica deposits in its stems. Rich in minerals potassium and calcium, cadmium, copper and zinc. It is also an excellent fungicide and has traditionally been used by herbalists to treat ulcers and wounds.

is that it provides an effective, progressive and thorough exfoliation of dead cells that contribute to the appearance of dull and ageing skin.

The result is a renewed skin that has been supported by minerals, vitamins,

Name: SAGE Salvia officinalis Description: Another member of the mint family with a long history of medicinal use.

Properties and Action: Sage has many healing properties,

its constitution for optimal skin health and

including anti-inflammatory, antibiotic, antifungal, astringent, oestogenic, antioxidant and increases capillary strength and resistance.

integrity.

Name: WITCH-HAZEL Hamamelis Description: A deciduous large shrub from which the astringent witch-hazel is extracted for medical use.

Properties and Action: Beneficial in healing inflammation, itching, bruises, scratches in conditions such as eczema and bedsores. Due to the presence of tannins it has the ability to counteract inflammation, skin injuries and varicose veins.

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Name: PLANTAGO Ribwort Plantain Description: A small, inconspicuous plant that has round, delicate leaves similar to mint.

Properties and Action: It action is astringent and diuretic and used topically as an emollient it can treat burns, insect stings, sunburn, skin disorders. It also contains phenols that contribute to its healing properties.

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antioxidant-rich active herbals to refine the skin's appearance, while strengthening

So what are the herbs that contribute to this change? Through a careful examination of the profile of herbs that we have presented throughout the columns of this article, you can gain a better understand of how the

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therapeutic properties of these herbs support and contribute to healthy skin renewal and rejuvenation.

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For further information contact OmniDerm phone 1300 301 007 or

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visit omniderm.com.au

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Cosmetex 12 – A Conference Overview

By Terry Everitt Cosmetex is a combined conference of the Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australasia (CPSA) and the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery (ACCS) recently held in Cairns 2nd-5th May 2012.

Over 3.5 days cosmetic medical and surgical seminars were conducted with additional workshops preceding the conference along with a paramedical stream on the Friday and Saturday morning with seminars directed to the non-doctors in the cosmetic medical field.

educational rigour. Along with the education in the multiple seminar rooms, there is much education going on in the exhibitors’ hall, with over 70 companies showcasing their products and equipment for those servicing the cosmetic wellness client.

Seminars began at 8.30 am and finished at 3.30pm, with morning, afternoon tea and lunch served in the exhibitors hall so there was plenty of time to mingle, socialise and network, while understanding the latest available technology and ingredients.

Each year this conference increases in size, popularity, prestige and One great thing about this event is if you attended only the paramedical component, you still get the benefit of the social time with the cosmetic medical and surgical practitioners along with your colleagues in the aesthetician arena.

A stellar line-up of seminar and workshop presenters from around the world provided an international perspective to the science and art of aesthetics, from a medical and surgical viewpoint.

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With a great mix of cosmetic surgeons, dermatologists, cosmetic physicians, medical skincare specialists and nurses attending; there are excellent seminar topics for all to understand new techniques, products and equipment.

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One workshop I particularly liked was an interactive forum on the face with two dermatologists - Dr Ava Shamban (USA) and Dr Nowell Solish (Canada) in one team with two plastic surgeons - Dr Daniel Elliott Rousso and Dr Corey Maas (both USA). A series of patients were shown and the teams outlined what they saw as concerns and asymmetries and the treatments they would undertake from their medical discipline perspective.

Terri Venson from Synergie Minerals provided an interesting seminar: The evolution of topical ingredients and their role in medical skin management, with a definitive analysis of how to judge the effectiveness of a product.

While there were many variations of laser technology, mostly with the use of fractionated platforms, the 'theme' seemed to be Q switch technology, particularly with Nd:Yag for tattoo removal. Tattoo removal is the next frontier it appears, with technology moving rapidly forward in getting better results. For those already in this area, you are very aware that not all inks react the same way and multiple wavelengths are required, even so some colours are hard to move, like the pale blues and white.

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There were many procedures demonstrated, mostly injection techniques (not actually a good idea to fire the lasers in such a crowed environment) and facial care such as introduced by Dr Geoffrey Heber for Ultraceuticals with their Mandelic Peel used in conjunction with microdermabrasion and ultrasonophoresis.

PARAMEDICAL SKINCARE SYMPOSIUM A concurrent yet separate Paramedical Skincare Symposium was a series of seminars on the Friday and Saturday morning which was geared for non-doctors.

This year a wide-ranging array of subject matter was canvassed under six topics; Anatomy, physiology and pharmacology, skin conditions, skin treatments one (laser & IPL), skin treatments two (chemical peels, microdermabrasion and skin needling), Paramedical skin treatments and makeup and a marketing topic dealing with online marketing.

Each topic had three individual topics, each of 30 minutes in duration delivered by a range of people representing the various disciplines in cosmetic care: dermatologists, surgeons, cosmetic chemists, nurses, marketing managers and editors.

Ample time to network and meeting the exhibitors in further broadening the educational experience was an additional highlight as this exposure was the same as the doctors were experiencing.

To have a look at the full program you can still access the download via http://www.cosmetex.org/cairns2012/program.php ㄰

Next year Cosmetex 2013 will be held at the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre from 17- 20 April.

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More macro topics included two seminars by Dr Stefania Roberts from Victoria on Male vs Female and Caucasian Vs Asian Aesthetics. ㈵

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If you are interested in the area of medical aesthetics then this along with the A5M conference in August are the two medical conferences you need to be at.

A full program of interest made this an important event for the cosmetic practitioner and is directed primarily to doctors working in this area.

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appearanceenhancement ㄰

APJ1. With lip enhancement what are the key considerations to ensure the enhancement is as natural as possible? Do you examine the age and appearance of the surrounding tissue and muscles when determining the volume of plumpness that will provide the best overall outcome?

Dr Roos: When it comes to appearance

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enhancement balance is the key consideration. You can't have eyes that are 40 years old and lips that are 60 and then enhance the younger-looking feature, as this will not work. Balance and proportion need to be considered on the different scales. For example, we would look at the mid-face first and target what needs improvement, before we can enhance the lips to look younger.

The best cosmetic results are always achieved by first doing a thorough assessment of the whole face to determine the priorities and then proceed with a little overall enhancement as a work in progress. This is not only more cost-effective for the client, but also allows us to achieve a more natural and more youthful appearance.

New Advances in APPEARANCE ENHANCEMENT

The new approach is to listen to the client or patient and what they perceive as their need. We then assess the situation and offer our professional recommendation on what will work best. We usually come to an agreement somewhere in the middle. If I believe that what the client wants will not work I will advise them accordingly. Ultimately, my work will be displayed on their features, so it is important that I endorse the nature of the enhancement.

An interview with Dr Eddie Roos

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When it comes to dedication to his profession you cannot find a more committed professional than Dr Eddie Roos. He is the current President of the Australasian Society of Cosmetic Medicine (ASCM) and Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine (ACAM), and is a member of the Cosmetic Physicians' Society of Australasia (CPSA).

Having a special interest in skin cancer diagnosis and treatment for over 19 years and expertise gained in cosmetic medicine over seven years, Dr Roos is also a founding member of the Skin Cancer Society of Australia (SCSA), and is also a member of the Toowoomba Health Community Council (Queensland).

Dr Roos had just returned from Cosmetex Cosmetic Medical Conference in Cairns and we caught up with him to discuss the latest advances in cosmetic enhancements.

For example large, exaggerated lips are no longer the trend. We are seeing a shift to a more natural finish that does not distort the person's appearance.

APJ2. Is there an age limit to the use of fillers, and are there any contraindications when fillers would not be appropriate for a client/patient?

Dr Roos: As a general rule we do not treat anyone under 18. However, as far as the cut-off age is concerned there is none. Of course as the skin thins with age, what products we use and where we position the fillers will alter. We now have different choices of products to suit varying ages. For example you can have a fit 85-year-old who looks great and is continuing to look after herself. With the proper procedure she can continue to look younger. There are some 85-year-olds who can look better than a 60-year-old. It all comes down to how they have taken care of themselves and if they feel younger, so why not look how they feel?

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APJ3: How can an aesthetic therapist best prepare her client's skin before dermal- filler injections?

Dr Roos: A healthy, hydrated and well-maintained skin will

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respond better to their appearance-enhancement treatment. By improving the hydration levels of the skin as well as collagen density through various procedures, aesthetic therapists can play a key role to ensuring a better treatment result. Effective procedures include microdermabrasion, needling for collagen induction therapy and good high-quality skincare to improve hydration levels are all valuable in preparing a client for better results all around.

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APJ4: What are the new frontiers of aesthetic medicine and what advances do you envisage over the next 10 years?

Dr Roos: We are seeing some incredible advances in light-based therapies, fractional resurfacing and LED light. There are now new treatments that work to repair DNA damage. There is also a lot of research that is uncovering the relevance of different influences of light on the skin. Also the advances in peptides are exciting as they can offer great benefits and influence cell repair and rejuvenation.

In terms of injectables and fillers the Pan Facial that uses new skills to reshape the face is quite exciting. When we started with fillers we basically performed lips and crows' feet enhancement, now we can reshape a chin, the angle of the jaw, improve the neck and achieve much more than what we used to because of new, more advanced techniques.

APJ5: What role do light-based therapies play in your practice and where do they offer the best results?

Dr Roos: We use a lot of LED light in our facials. They offer great benefits with acne bacteria, calming the skin from inflammation, supporting skin rejuvenation. We also use IPL a great deal for its photo-rejuvenation benefits and we use lasers for tattoo removal.

It's amazing that tattoo removal has become a procedure that is much in demand. As girls split with the ex-partners they may want

to remove his mention on their body or other experiences that they have grown out of. The fractional laser also offers great results and while it do not provide volume like fillers, it can substantially improve the texture of the skin.

APJ6: Are we making any progress with skin-cancer prevention and to what do you attribute the growing number of skin-cancer cases?

Dr Roos: We are definitely making some headway with the youth, unfortunately many of the current cancers we are seeing are due to damage that was done 15-20 years ago. Many are in their 40s and 50s and the cancer is as a result of exposure to the sun many years ago without any sun protection. We now know that with appropriate UVA/UVB sunscreen you can minimise the possibility of melanoma by up to 70%. Having said that, it is still disappointing to see young people lying in the midday sun to gain a tan, without realising the damage they exposing their bodies to.

APJ7: From your experience what are the most popular procedures that consumers are asking for and are there any changes compared to these trends over the past five years?

Dr Roos: Botox and fillers would have to be the most popular procedures in demand, however, we are seeing some changes. Today, many consumers are coming in with a great deal more information and understanding of the scope and nature of the procedures. There is more awareness because of TV programs and magazine articles that help educate them on what results they can expect to receive. Tattoo removal is also one service that many seek out. In fact, we do not do any advertising for tattoo removal as this procedure is constantly in demand.

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APJ8: Why have you chosen to be involved with several Societies and what are the benefits you gain from this involvement?

Dr Roos: As a medical practitioner it is important that I stay in touch with progress and new advances. Belonging to an industry Association or Society allows me to continue to learn something new, continue to improve myself and my techniques and become aware of changes to the Code of Conduct that is expected of me. It is all about being professional.

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Dr Roos is located at Cosmetic Elegance Clinic and can be contacted on phone 07 438 2700.

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CTI PRA TION

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APAN’S AMAZING EXPERT ADVICE AND SUPPORT has enabled me to overcome my challenges and to CONTINUE TO GROW my business despite difficult economic times.

I love an organisation that is committed to excellence!

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For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 Email info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com and download a Membership Application Form.

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Cause and Treatment of

Melasma and Hyperpigmenation

By Metro-Dora Clifford Pigmentation is a condition that plagues many clients causing not only appearance concerns, but often also psychological. In this article Metro-Dora Clifford, Director of CSHE Australia, presents a practical approach to differentiating the various types of pigmentation and how to treat them in the salon.

First, I would like to explain the pigment cycle and how hot spots form. Once you understand the concept, you should be able to treat them successfully after you determine whether it is in the epidermis or if it's been well established over time and is deep seated in the dermis.

Our Dermalscope that is available from SCHE is an excellent tool to help you identify where the spot or discolouration areas exist at the time of the consultation, which is a good place to start.

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The first thing you must understand is that every skin is very different and the same procedure may not work for everyone. Therefore I cannot give you a guaranteed recipe for treating hyperpigmenation or discolouration, as you have no control over the client once they leave your clinic, just as in the case of body shaping, some get better results than others, particularly when hormones are involved. There are several procedures and methods to choose from, but the correct selection comes with experience and knowledge. For example, I cannot give you the general concepts, you have to mix procedures and try different methods, and most of all you must record everything you have tried on your client, including their response - good and bad, so you are not repeating what does not work for the client, even if it worked on another client.

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Generally, you can get rid of discolouration for good. In order to diminish hyperpigmentation you must always protect the skin from

the sun, otherwise you run the risk of it returning, and then it can become twice as hard to treat.

Once you find a regimen that works for you, stick with it, even if it requires a lifetime of maintenance to prevent your client's discolouration or hyperpigmentation from returning.

HOW A SPOT OR DISCOLOURATION FORMS The majority of cells in the epidermis are skin cells, which create a protective layer and generally last 18-28 days, depending on the age and skincare routine of the person. But every 8th cell in this layer is a melanocyte cell, which makes melanin. Melanin or pigment is produced in the lower levels of the basal layer and the pigment process resembles that of an assembly line.

HERE IS A BRIEF OUTLINE OF THE PROCESS: 1. A trigger sends a signal to the melanin stimulating hormones to produce melanin and after this message is sent the enzyme tyrosinase is activated.

2. Once tyrosinase is signalled, the melanocyte cells receive a message to produce pigment, which they package into little bundles known as melanosomes.

3. The cell then disperses the pigment upward through the dermis, resulting in hyperpigmentation. Because the body cannot divvy up the pigment properly, it gets deposited in clumps that show up as spots and discolouration.

4. Permanent hyperpigmentation, however, comes with ageing. As the skin ages the cycle is less controlled as sun exposure and hormonal changes interrupt it and the steady distribution of melanin becomes

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more diffused. Excess melanin is produced and hyperpigmenation is formed, creating deposits of colour that stay indefinitely unless treated correctly.

THE FOUR TRIGGERS THAT START THE CYCLE ARE: ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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The sun Hormonal activity Inflammation of any kind to the area Injury or trauma

THE SUN The sun is the main culprit in hyperpigmentation. But hormonal changes or a reaction to an injury endured by the skin that causes inflammation can also cause discolouration as in the case of acne, eczema, burns or even a cut. All skins are prone to hyperpigmentation, but it is more common in darker skin types because naturally there is

more melanin and more melanocytes that can respond in an aggressive manner. When dark skins experience discolouration, it appears as dark brown or black spots or patches. But when lighter skin tones, which have fewer or less active melanocytes, experience discolouration, they manifest more red and pink spots and patches and these are often mistaken for telangiectasia as the discolouration has a reddish tinge to it. ㄰

If you do not possess a Woods Lamp or Dermascope, you can still tell the severity of your Melasma by stretching the skin in the discoloured area. If it appears lighter than when the skin is at rest, then the hyperpigmentation is superficial and you will get results by treating it with a course of gentle enzyme peels like Mango or Papin Enzymes before using IPL on it.

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If on stretching the skin over the affected area, the skin looks darker then the pigmentation lies in the dermal layers and will need

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treatments with the Fractional or Q-Switched laser, making sure you don't cause inflammation in the process. To ensure you avoid inflammation cool the area immediately with cold compresses after the treatment until the tingling sensation disappears.

This aftercare is very important to obtain great results. Most therapists treat and send the patient home with little after-care advice, where they then wash the treatment area with hot water (during showering), or if exposed to the sun, pick at the scab or use products that are aggressive (AHAs, Vitamin A and C), which can cause an injury or trauma to the area and this reinforces the pigmentation process and so they see no result.

HORMONES

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Hormones, especially oestrogen, also play a big role in how hyperpigmentation affects the skin. When oestrogen levels are elevated, either from pregnancy or birth-control pills, additional melanin is produced. With all this extra melanin floating in the skin, it settles as dark deposits, which result in melanin. Some who experience hormone-induced hyperpigmentation may notice that this can also be caused by progesterone. However, once the hormones stabilise they will notice that the discolouration disappears. However, others will need medical treatment to even out their skin discolouration by having a blood test and settling their hormones to a level normal for their age.

Please also note that Melasma, also known as the “pregnancy mask” as it appears on both sides of the face, the forehead, the upper lip, the chin and sides of the neck, is harder to correct, because it is tied to oestrogen and progesterone and often affects the deep dermal layers of the skin. Mild Melasma, however, appears as faint brown splotches that are rather small. Full- blown Melasma surfaces as patches of light brown skin with irregular borders. The combination of hormones and

the sun are often the common causes seen among Asians and Hispanics or in skin types 3-5.

INFLAMMATION OR INJURY If the trigger is inflammation or injury then long after it is healed its effects of red or brown spots linger and are known as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation or commonly known as PIH. If the skin is dark and the spots are brown it is produced in the upper layers of the skin, or it may be red or pink if they have pale skin. But if it's grey or blue, then extra melanin is made in the dermis and it will not fade away with time.

Wearing sunscreen on a daily basis is a crucial step in preventing and reducing any type of discolouration that may even appear after an acne breakout. The sun's rays not only darken post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, but they can also break down the main ingredients being used in the many fading treatments you are providing your clients. PIH can be the result from minor or acneic skin breakouts or full-blown cyctic acne, since the discolouration is directly related to how much inflammation exists, so prevention is better than cure.

Therefore, do advise your clients not to pick at their pimples. ㄰

Clusters of small brown spots that are triggered by the sun are called freckles and are the signs of sun damage due to overexposure to the sun with low-grade inflammation.

Sunspots or isolated discolouration appear from prolonged sun exposure and is evident in mature skin accompanied by skin that has a crinkly texture. These types of pigmentation are normally found on hands, sides of face, chest, neck and other exposed parts of the body. Sunspots are larger than freckles and don't usually tend to show up on the skin until the 40s or 50s, even though some younger people have mild sun spots in their 20s and 30s.

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pigmentation and even if they tell you it's only a guess of when they first noticed it, by which time it has already been well established in their skin layers.

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2. Remember that melanocytes that cause pigmentation have a very good memory. New

cells will still attempt to produce the same amount of melanin as before, so the treatment you choose to use should be: (a) gradual for new spots, or (b) fast and aggressive for established ones.

3. Try the gradual approach first. Follow with a course of 4-6 Enzymes from Zestry Orange with Salicylic Acid, Pumpkin with Glycolic Acid and Papin Enzymes, alternating between them and allowing 3-4 weeks between each treatment. This will allow for the fading of the discolouration as new cells are only replaced approximately every 28 days. More frequent professional treatments will only increase the skin stress of not being able to reproduce new cells as quickly as you are removing them and can have the opposite effect.

4. You can perform a couple of transbrasion treatments. These involve microdermabrasion to remove surface dead cells followed by an infusion of skin-brightening actives. Two excellent products are our Clinical Discolouration Solution or the Clinical Lightening and Brightening Cremes and Masque. Beneficial ingredients that will need to be infused are: Kojic acid, Arbutin, Salicylic acid, Log Wood extract, Vitamins A, B and C, Birch and Parsley. You can then follow with IPL or Fractional Laser as freshly exfoliated skin allows the IPL or laser light to work even more effectively. When using IPL the best range is between 530mn to 550mn wavelengths, and a short pulse duration of 2ms to 5ms is best while using the “paper peep-hole technique”.

5. We recommend your clients use the Chiral-A Discolouration Serum for night and EGF-DNA Recovery Cream during the day or Lightening and Brightening cream at night in order to keep your professional treatments progressively effective.

We are soon launching a new Retinaldehyde product that is currently undergoing patent formalities. This product will selectively inhibit the enzyme that triggers melanin production and thus prevents the pigment-producing process getting to the top of the skin. ㄰ 㤵

6. Alternatively, a 4% Hydroquinone can be prescribed by the client's dermatologist and this can be used with the above Clinical

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retail products and treatments mentioned above for quicker results.

7. If Hydroquinone does not work then try removing the top layer of

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1. First of all do not guarantee anyone any results. We don't know the real reason for their

Depending on your client's consultation and feedback, you will have to prep the skin first for two weeks. We recommend the A Natural Difference Erase-A-Line Serum) before treating them for deeper treatments, using the following procedures and depending on what equipment or products you have.

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PROVEN STRATEGIES FOR TREATING PIGMENTATION

the pigmented skin with the Clinical Cabernet Natural Peel – if you do not possess a fractional laser for resurfacing on skin types 3-4, but only use IPL on skin types 1 and 2.

If your client's pigmentation is stubborn and seated deeper into the skin try treating it with an ablative laser, preferably using only 5mj and a Stacking Pulse mode on a fractional CO2 laser to destroy the pigment gently at its source.

8. An alternative strategy would also be to use a Q-Switched Nd:YAG laser that offers 532mn and 1064nm wavelengths so you have the choice of the aggressive 532mn wavelength to use for deep dermal lesions and the 1064nm for the darker skin types and more gradual removal, by fragmenting the pigments so they get absorbed back into the bloodstream.

(A note of caution: If the wrong laser or acid is used, or the enzyme peel is not neutralised correctly or left too long, the skin can become injured and respond with inflammation, causing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.)

9.. The best way to treat PIH is with ablative fractional CO2 lasers as they deliver the energy deep within the skin to break up discolouration and are best for those with unresponsive Melasma.

Microscopic wounds are created to deeply exfoliate the top layer and prompt regrowth of new, healthy skin. In most cases 2-3 treatments with 2-3mJ/cm2 low energy using stacking pulses are required for the most common areas treated, such as hands, face, neck and chest.

It must be noted also that these areas turn really dark for a couple of weeks before they flake off. In darker skin types some blistering can occur if cooling is not used during the treatment procedure.

IN CONCLUSION Even if you treat your client for Melasma, it may not be 100% erased.

You may be able to diminish the discolouration and minimise its size to some degree, but you stand the chance of there still being some faint pigmentation left in the skin, which then can be covered with a good foundation. The Clinical Recovery Foundation contains Epidermal Growth Factors, Yeast Cell Extracts and a greater amount of pigment with a 30+ sunscreen as its main ingredient, so it will protect your client's skin and keep it improving from treatment to treatment.

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If you wish to attend a in-depth Clinical Therapists' Workshop, now also offered in Sydney and Melbourne please call CSHE Australia Pty Ltd 1800 628 999.

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APPEARANCE ENHANCEMENT through DETOXIFICATION by the AESTHETIC PRACTITIONER

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By Lynnette Rouse ㈵

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Under the skin in the subatomic levels of the body we can discover a very different world. Exploring the human body will remain an ongoing quest for scientists as they seek to increase their knowledge and understanding of its unique complexities. Researched from a number of different levels, including subatomic particles, atoms, molecules, tissues, and organs, science persists in identifying new discoveries of the wonderful world of the human anatomy.

At the subatomic level our physical body is energy, composed of atoms, protons, neutrons and elections. The fundamental particles of matter are affected by nuclear and electromagnetic forces. Oxygen, carbon, nitrogen and hydrogen are the smallest units of an element possessing unique chemical and physical properties. These properties are affected by electromagnetic forces. Molecules can be affected by electromagnet forces as well, because they possess unique chemical and physical properties. For example, an insulin molecule can also be affected by electromagnetic force.

OUR CELLULAR STRUCTURE The ability to maintain a balance of the chemical processes of the body is called homeostasis. In so doing, there is a flux and flow of chemical reactions within every cell of every living organism. The smallest unit of life that can produce all life processes itself is the cell. Cells make up tissue and these then contribute to the formation of organs in the body. Cells are the basic functioning unit of that organ or tissue.

The human body has approximately 250,000 billion cells, with approximately 35,000 chemical reactions taking place per second within each of these cells. Many of these chemical reactions are involved in healing and repair. In a healthy human being, two trillion 160 billion new cells should be produced every hour. Toxins disturb the natural flux and flow of homeostasis. Therefore, the body's immune system must defend against these toxins. The battle waged by the immune system between toxins and homeostasis is expressed as disease.

Through the overview I represented in my first article in APJ (Volume 12) entitled How to Revolutionise your Success in Skin Health and Wellbeing, it was established that exposure to toxins is a major source of disease and this problem is increasing all the time. Thousands of new chemicals are released into the environment and put in our food every year.

DEALING WITH TOXINS ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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When a toxin enters the body the immune system's first defence is to excrete or expel the toxin. This is accomplished through perspiration, saliva, urine, faeces, menstruation, earwax, tears and sinus secretions through the nose. In fact, often when a person has "a cold", they are actually detoxifying and draining out some toxin. If that toxin gets past the first line of defence due to the strength of the toxin, the high quantity of the toxin or the weakness of the immune system, the body's second line of defence is stimulated into action and inflammation sets in. This is when the person is diagnosed with some kind of "itis", which simply means "inflammation of". For example, tonsillitis is inflammation of the tonsils, colitis is inflammation of the colon, and dermatitis is inflammation of the derma or the skin.

If the immune system still cannot handle the toxin, the body will create storage spaces outside of the cell to deposit the toxin. In this manner, the body does not allow the toxin inside the cell where it could contribute to irreparable damage. These spaces also act as holding spaces so the body can deal with the toxic invasion a little at a time.

Examples are cysts, swellings, engorged fat cells and benign tumours.

Toxic scales can be formed due to the hardening and can attach themselves to cells or become trapped in an acidic environment.

Up to this point, the body has kept its organs and tissues safe. Beyond this point is where real trouble occurs. If the toxin is allowed to enter the cell it may do irreparable damage to the chemical reactions that take place in that cell and that allow the cell to do its job. It may also do damage to the DNA of the cell, the replicating factor of the cell, which leads to the creation of sick, malfunctioning organs.

SYSTEMIC TOXIC OVERLOAD AND THE IMPACT ON ORGANS The kidneys are the main organs that function to filter waste from the blood. To do so they are highly dependent on proper mineral balance.

The most important and abundant mineral in the body is calcium. This is because 90% of all chemical reactions depend on calcium as a catalyst.

The spleen, on the other hand, is the great transformer, transmuter, and transports nutrients in the human body. It governs the lymphatic system, part of which includes 2¼ million miles of lymphatic vessels, the larger number being just under the skin.

Transporting waste and toxins should come out of the three major organs of elimination; the spleen, liver and the kidneys. If the lymphatic system is not transporting the waste or toxic overload into the blood supply for elimination, then the toxic overload is excreted through the skin. Topical skin disorders will present as inflammation, pigmentation, acne, dryness and dehydration, with more serious diseases and conditions existing in the dermal tissue.

Overloaded kidneys and lymphatics cause a backup of toxic waste to the tissues and organs. The large intestine (colon), is where the body consolidates waste from food. Whatever has not been digested by the stomach and small intestine, and then absorbed by the small intestine into the bloodstream, passes into the large intestine for consolidation and removal. Overload and backup here causes an impaction of waste in the colon, which can further back up into the small intestine, compromising absorption of food.

The small intestine is where candida yeast can accumulate and cause infection, which leads to every known skin disease. In addition, it denies the liver adequate nutrients to be absorbed to maintain its immunity function. Toxic overload in the liver creates an imbalance in the large intestine, which further leads to toxic overload in the skin.

The liver is responsible for over 500 functions in the body, including fat metabolism, hormone breakdown and deactivation, sugar storage and conversion factors, and also blood coagulation factors, to name a few. One of its main functions is removing poisons from the body.

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These poisons are then released directly into the intestines to be eliminated by the colon. Among the 500 responsibilities of the liver functions in the body, the liver organ controls the spleen, which in turn nourishes the skin.

system (like gamma globulin). It stores extra blood for emergencies and helps maintain our electrolyte and water balance. The liver continues to helps us utilise fat-soluble vitamins (like A, D, E, F and K); and it creates bile, which breaks down fats.

It can be understood why science considers the liver to be as equally vital for life as the heart if not more important when you consider the rolls the liver plays. For example, the liver accesses the energy we need from proteins, fats and carbohydrates. It stores vitamins, minerals and sugars. It also filters the blood, removing all kinds of harmful substances. The liver metabolises, helps utilise and eliminate excess hormones. It creates substances that enhance our immune

DETOXIFICATION AND THE SKIN The liver and the spleen are our filtration systems. In order to have a healthy filtration system, we have to keep it free of products that clog it. When the filtration system is clogged, issues of lethargy, tiredness and fatigue will be present. When nutrition supply to the skin is impaired, disease and disorders present themselves. The skin is further used as a filtration system when the liver and spleen are overloaded. With lack of nutrient supply to the skin and the increased use of the skin for filtration, inflammation will continue to increase. One of many symptoms to recognise an unhealthy filtration system is the inability to think and focus. Pain and infections can also be a part of liver/spleen issues, including headaches and sinus infections.

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The spleen is directly connected to our lymphatic system, which in turn connects to our mucus membranes.

Finally, the spleen is also involved in digestion. When digestion is working well and the body is harmonised, it generates an ample amount of energy and has the ability to get rid of dampness. If the spleen is not working well dampness can accumulate and lead to greasy skin and acne.

All these disharmonies have many overlapping causes. Stress, overwork and congenital factors are some of the most common reasons. Food choices are also a common cause. Eating fatty and heavy food disrupts the function of the spleen in digestion that can lead to dampness. This can influence an acne flare-up. This is why eating greasy pizza, too much sweets and spicy food can be bad for acne.

We also face the risk of being poisoned by a toxic bowel. Poor food choices, food allergies and full-spectrum antibiotics kill natural intestinal flora, contribute to constipation and the overgrowth of detrimental bacteria that create a condition called autointoxication. In a compromised state, the bowel is unable to rid the body of toxins,

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so toxins are then reabsorbed into the bloodstream. These excess toxins and undesirable bacteria interfere with proper enzyme function. This prevents normal cell activity, particularly in the brain and nervous system.

When the bowel is slow in emptying its waste, other organs of detoxification such as the kidneys, liver, lungs, lymph system and skin become overworked and exhausted. The liver, in particular, shifts into higher activity, producing large amounts of age-promoting free radicals. A toxic bowel hinders all phases of liver detoxification. In this overburdened state the body is no longer able to rid itself of wastes. Energy levels suffer, and eventually sickness and disease occur.

At first, symptoms of toxic overload are mild to moderate. Fatigue, obesity, skin rashes, sore throats, sinus congestion, headaches, depression, constipation and frequent colds may all be symptoms of toxic overload.

WHY THE NEED FOR DETOXIFICATION? Detoxification is needed because of the need for the body to eliminate and shift toxic substances and wastes out of the body. So why is our body prone to toxicity? The world we live in is polluted. The air we breathe is polluted, the water we drink is polluted and the food we eat is polluted. That, in combination with the chemical make-up of stress, all culminates into an internal and external polluted environment.

This is where detoxification comes in. Detoxification supplies nutrients to the cells and takes waste away. When pollutants enter our bodies via air, water and food and remain in our body; or the unused adrenalin of massive stress is stored our bodies can go into toxic overload, which can cause various diseases.

With the rising number of people immersed in ongoing stress or regular use of medication for the mind, all these issues present a problem in today's modern world. Therefore the growing need for detoxification is about eliminating the trapped plasma proteins or the acid waste that accumulates in the tissues of our cells. Toxins also become trapped in the spaces between the skin and muscles as a result of excessive toxic build-up. The blood has to remain clean and alkalised, however, toxic overload leads to a highly acidic internal environment that is damaging to our organs and skin.

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TRADITIONAL DETOXIFICATION PROGRAMS Historically, many programs focused exclusively on liver support.

This is an incomplete approach, as the gut is actually a major source of toxic exposure for many people and no amount of liver support can help if the body is being overwhelmed with excessive toxic material from the environment of the digestive system.

Normally, the microvilli in the gut will carry out a significant amount of detoxification through the production of cytochrome p-450 (CYP450) enzymes. If these enzymes are not being produced effectively, or if the gut is not acting as an appropriate physical barrier, the liver and eventually the immune system will have to deal with the waste products from the gut entering the bloodstream. Over time, this constant toxic assault on the liver and immune system can overwhelm their ability to cope, and disease can occur.

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For many the gut will be the largest source of toxic exposure.

Restoring gut flora is necessary to the repair of the gut lining. The gut is the major source of inflammatory agents that affect the liver. The liver is adversely affected by gut toxicity. For this reason it is now believed that the best way to achieve safe detoxification is to support it with gut flora restoration prior to liver detoxification.

DETOXIFICATION IN THE AESTHETIC PRACTICE As an aesthetic therapist it is important that you understand that if you wish to achieve long-term benefits in skin improvement, whether these are dealing with skin disorders such as acne, allergy-prone skin or anti-ageing, the advanced approach is to also examine any underlying health issues as well as the issue of systemic toxicity. As we gain knowledge it is important that we continue to evolve our practices with updated information and new protocols that will help us achieve better treatment outcomes. Just sticking to what you have done in the past will not necessarily give you the results that your client will come to expect from you.

There are a number of ways that you can assist in dealing with internal toxicity that still fall within the scope of your qualifications. One of these is lymphatic drainage – whether manual or through specialised equipment, when correctly practice lymphatic drainage can offer great support to the detoxification process. Encouraging your client to implement an alkaline diet or to drink alkaline water is a great place to start. New research now also confirms the benefit of zeolite and

Good health is a complete state of wellbeing and to achieve this we need our body to function correctly for optimum health. That also means an efficient elimination system that is not compromised. As our polluted world continues its assault on our body, so it is necessary for us to continue to support our body through detoxification. The elimination of this toxic overload gives life back to the cells through efficient nutrient absorption and oxygenation. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Our body runs on oxygen and glucose. To get that energy into the cells we have to ensure the cells are unencumbered and in an alkaline environment. In other words that the cells are functioning correctly through an efficient process of absorption of nutrient and elimination of wastes and are able to support the health of other tissues and organs in the body.

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APAN WHY SETTLE FOR JUST RECOGNITION WHEN YOU CAN HAVE IT ALL

Recognition Benefits & Rewards Join Australia's leading Network and Standards Body in the Professional Beauty and Aesthetic Industry AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK

] Flexible modern organisation able to meet the rapid changing needs of the industry

] Strategic Network Partnerships provide

opportunity and quality services at discounted rates

] Access to industry intelligence with strategic

understanding and direction from the industry’s most experienced through a unique mentoring service

] Gain recognition and credibility through association with the industry’s best

] Tangible benefits including DEFCOM Discount

Card and cost effective choices in membership

] Membership open to all areas of practice and

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Whatever treatment you are performing, your role as an aesthetic therapist is to educate your client on the new advances and how science is now supporting the necessity for each individual to take into consideration simple and methodical ways that toxicity can be minimised and eliminated from their body and their environment.

Sometimes it is the small progressive, but cumulative changes that can make all the difference.

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THE ERA OF COLLABORATIVE INTERFACING Before undertaking any treatment with a client a thorough skin and health evaluation should be completed. This should include looking closely at health issues, medication, lifestyle and dietary habits as these will be excellent indicators of what is happening in this person's body. Looking at manifestation on the skin on the whole body and not just the face is also highly essential as there will be clues that will help you identify what is happening in the body. The skin does not lie. It will reflect toxicity through excessive dryness, fluid retention, inflammation and excess vascular lesions, skin tags and other lesions, skin colour such as a sallow, yellow tone, and also a lack of skin elasticity. All these are markers of compromised health issues.

If you have identified that the body is showing signs of major toxicity you may also wish to work collaboratively with a healthcare professional such as an accredited anti-ageing physician, a qualified naturopath or nutritionist who would be highly beneficial to your client and to your results. Most reputable salons and clinics are engaging in these collaborate services for the benefit of their clients.

To find these contact the appropriate societies such as A5M Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine, phone 03 9813 0439, the Australian Naturopathic Practitioners Association, phone 1800 422 885 or the Australian Natural Therapies Association, phone1800 422 885.

As an aesthetic therapist you have an ethical obligation to practise within the perimeters of your qualifications. However, that does not stop you to allow the modality that is outside of your training to be serviced by a practitioner who is. In this day and age this is now becoming the norm. A modern salon or clinic will only grow as they provide services that ensure their clients are getting the very best professional care through the appropriate practitioner, whether that person is a part of their staff or a visiting practitioner with the right qualifications to provide the services needed.

While you may not wish to engage with your client with protocols for internal detoxification procedures you still need to understand the reasons for its benefit, the external symptoms that may indicate the necessity for expert services and how this will assist you to achieve better treatment outcomes and assist your client to reach their skin treatment goals and beyond. It is these elements that will allow you to gain a reputation as an expert and one that will be accessed for successful results time and time again.

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] Excellent on-line resources

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other mineral-rich clays both applied topical or even ingested.

These are simple yet safe modalities that you can introduce. The article in this journal by Dr Dzung Price will outline these benefits in detail.

For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com or visit www.apanetwork.com and download a Membership Application Form.

Lynnette Rouse has 10 years’ experience as a spa owner. She achieves outstanding results to her treatments using an integrative holistic approach to her skin and body treatments. She is also a trainer and educator in medical technologies. Lynnette has a Bachelor of Health Science and has also qualifications in natural medicine. With the Scientific information she has gained she has devised successful protocols that have optimised her treatment to new levels. Lynnette Rouse can be contacted on 0430 007 998.

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WARNING: don't be caught with inadequate insurance in time of a business claim.

Memories of people who have lost everything as a result of the natural disasters still haunt our minds. People who thought they had adequately insured all that they had worked so hard to build.

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The Sparrow Group have a proven record as Insurance specialists just for the beauty industry, protecting our clients, removing that stress factor, and in many cases, offering significant savings as well.

We have negotiated an arrangement, backed by the best in the world, Lloyds of London, wherein we can cover your stock and contents for fire and perils and accidental damage, offer glass cover, money and theft, etc in conjunction with your Liability cover to ensure you are well protected.. *In many cases we can offer the advantage of having all your cover with the one insurer, highlighting the value of having a holistic approach so nothing slips between the cracks.

Also available are easy payment arrangement by both Credit Card and Premium Financing Arrangements enabling you to free up your cash flow.

We look forward to the opportunity to provide you with an obligations- free quote taking the pressure off you.

The Sparrow Group began primarily to provide insurance to the Beauty Industry, coming from the vantage point of having experience in the industry.

The Director Sue Sparrow, had vast experience in the beauty industry before becoming an insurance broker, which then led her to develop her own successful insurance company.

More recently, Sue worked closely with underwriters to develop insurance cover for the more specialised area of skin needling. This has created a breakthrough for the beauty industry.

We know how important personalised and specialised service is in running a beauty salon; it's the same in finding the right insurance.

The beauty industry has become so varied, with much advancement in treatments. This means your business needs personal attention to ensure that you are covered effectively.

Many insurers include unnecessary cover in their standard policies, pushing up their premiums. We offer service that ensures you're covered where it counts, and that you only pay for what you need.

Our proven results save you money while guaranteeing peace of mind. Our alliance with Lloyds of London gives you security through being the world's largest and most diversified insurance provider.

The Sparrow Group provides you with proven service that will take the * for specific size salon. 㤵 㜵

Ring now for a review......obligation free Call Sue Sparrow on (07) 5502 8326. or Email sales@thesparrowgroup.com.au

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SEE WHAT YOUR COLLEAGUES HAVE TO SAY Chris WA. Chris called The Sparrow Group for a review as she was paying very high premiums and she wasn't obtaining the information from her broker to assist her in feeling comfortable with the insurance policy that was in place. Her current brokers were not proactive in providing her with information, or for that matter returning her calls.

Chris wanted to know what she had covered under her existing policies; did she require further cover and was she paying too much?

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After reviewing her policies, we confirmed the following: As Chris's business had grown and she had additional areas to cover, another policy was added. While this was very diligent of her to make sure she was properly covered, the insurance broker, due to a lack of understanding of the beauty industry, had duplicated her policies. Also, there were existing policies in place that she no longer required due to the changes in her business.

These matters were immediately corrected and we sourced new policies that save her over $7,000 per year.

Joanne SA. Joanne called The Sparrow Group for a review

MORE ABOUT THE SPARROW GROUP

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of her policies, as she was concerned over the premium amount she was paying and she didn't feel her insurance broker understood her business requirements. As she had a mobile business that included an IPL machine she was concerned that it wasn't adequately covered under her insurance.

After reviewing Joanne's policies we confirmed the following: There were areas of Joanne's policies that were doubled up and we were able to save her money.

However, her mobile IPL and some of her other electronic equipment were far from adequately covered. In the event of a claim it would have cost Joanne up to $60,000 to replace her equipment. We were not able to offer savings to Joanne's premium. We were, however, able to give her peace of mind through a more comprehensive cover in the event of a claim.

Susan Qld. Susan called to see if The Sparrow Group could review her policies as she had been with an insurance broker for some time and she wasn't sure if she was covered for all her treatments under her existing policies.

After reviewing Susan's policies we confirmed the following: Susan's policies were in disarray. She had policies that were not worth the paper they were written on as they were not adequately insured to cover her treatments or for any advice that she or her staff may be giving that may eventuate in a claim. She had a motor vehicle and a household policy that she thought she was covered for that had been out of cover for five months. We were able to work through all the paperwork with Susan and ensure that she and her business were adequately covered and she could now sleep at night.

With the beauty industry moving forward in leaps and bounds the need for an insurance group who has extensive experience in the beauty industry as well as the insurance industry is paramount.

Our proven results guarantee peace of mind

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keyingredient After three months, the skin of the women who had had the flavonoidenriched cocoa had increased in moisture levels, was smoother and less scaly. One evaluation involved irradiating each woman's skin with slightly more ultraviolet (UV) light than had turned their skin red before the examination began.

The researchers determined that the flavonoids, which absorb UV light, helped protect and increase blood flow to the skin, improving its appearance. Additionally, the studies revealed that ingesting cocoa solids and flavonoids (dark chocolate) can also fight skin cancer.

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A decadent food that heals

CHOCOLATE

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It has been proven that overexposure to UV light can foster the increase of skin cancer. Researchers suggest that a dietary source of skinprotecting flavonoids might offer some inherent defence for sundrenched days when an individual doesn't use adequate amounts of sunscreen. The flavonoid quantities in the richer cocoa were similar to those found in 100 grams of dark chocolate, researchers report.

By Tina Viney

While in the past there was only anecdotal evidence that chocolate could possibly offer health benefits, this is all changing. There is now mounting evidence from formal scientific studies that confirms that chocolate is actually beneficial for health and even for the skin.

The new skin-protection statistics are more than a curiosity, says Hasan Mukhtar, director of dermatology research at the University of Wisconsin-Madison. The outcome of his studies suggest that dietary flavonoids reach the upper layers of skin and “have the ability to counteract the oxygen free radicals generated as a consequence of exposure to UV radiation”. UV exposure leads not only to impaired immunity and accelerated ageing in skin, but also to cancer, particularly in light-skinned people.

Numerous other studies as well as this one have shown that UV light triggers many reactions in the body that can lead to tissue damage.

SKIN BENEFITS

OTHER HEALTH BENEFITS

Chocolate is one of those decadent foods that are associated with love and elevate endorphins that make you feel happy, but also have been accused of vices, such as weight gain, and even contributing to pimples and acne.

Several other studies confirm health benefits to the circulatory According to several studies, chocolate's antioxidants are powerful in system. There was a Greek study on the effects of dark chocolate on fighting the environmental stressors that impact the skin and lead to arteries conducted in 2007. ageing. By eating foods that are rich in flavanoids, you arm your skin wit natural defences that help to maintain collagen and reduce sun damage. This is why cocoa masks are Cardiovascular system and the heart now becoming a more common feature THE SKIN BENEFITS OF CHOCOLATE “Epidemiological studies suggest that high in spas and even salons. So what do the ! Chocolate has skin moisturising, nourishing and skin- flavonoid intake confers a benefit on researchers say? softening properties due to its cocoa butter content. cardiovascular outcome,” Dr. Charalambos

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! It will soften the appearance of wrinkles due to its Vlachopoulos, of Athens Medical School in A study conducted by German Greece, and colleagues write in the antioxidant flavonoids. researchers gave 24 women a half-cup ! Flavonoids prevent the free radicals from causing American Journal of Hypertension. of special extra-flavonoid-enriched damage to the skin's proteins such as collagen and cocoa every day. Half the women drank They point out that the elasticity or stiffness elastin. hot cocoa containing a heavy dose of of arteries “are important determinants of !

Flavonoids also strengthen the skin's immunity so it is flavonoids (natural plant-based cardiovascular performance and are less prone to inflammation and sun damage antioxidants), while the remaining predictors of cardiovascular risk”. The !

Cocoa flavonoids help rejuvenate the skin volunteers got cocoa that looked and researchers examined the effects of Ref: Norwich Medical School, University of East Anglia, tasted the same, but had a moderate flavonoid-rich dark chocolate on bloodNorwich, United Kingdom. l.hooper@uea.ac.uk amount of the flavonoids. In the vessel function in 17 young, healthy beginning and in the end of the trial, volunteers over a three-hour period after Wilhelm Stahl of Heinrich-Heine University in Düsseldorf and his they consumed 100 grams of a commercially available dark colleagues conducted a multitude of tests on each volunteer. chocolate.

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The investigators saw that an artery in the arm dilated significantly more in response to an increase in blood flow.

Chocolate consumption also led to a significant 7 per cent decrease in aortic stiffness.

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The flavonoids in cocoa are catechin, epicatechin, procyanides and proanthocyanidins. Chocolate on a per-weight basis has the highest concentration of these flavonoids of any food. Cocoa is loaded with a variety of phytonutrients, making it very high in antioxidants.

“The predominant mechanism appears to be dilation of small and medium-sized peripheral arteries and arterioles,” Dr Vlachopoulos confirmed.

The team didn't detect any change in antioxidant levels, so they suggest other possible explanations. “The dilatory effect of chocolate under resting conditions can be attributed to improved nitric oxide bioavailability, prostacyclin increase, direct effect of chocolate in smooth muscle cells, or activation of central mechanisms,” they write.

People who ate the same amount of white chocolate however, did not experience any benefits, as white chocolate does not have any cocoa or flavanoids. Word to the wise: 3.5 ounces is roughly equal to a big bar of baking chocolate, so the participants had to cut about 400 calories out of their daily diets to make room. But you probably don't have to go to those lengths. Just a bite may do you good, experts say.

Jeffrey Blumberg, Ph.D., director of the Antioxidants Research Laboratory at Tufts University, recently found that hypertensive people who ate 3.5 ounces of dark chocolate per day for two weeks saw their blood pressure drop significantly. Furthermore, their bad cholesterol also dropped.

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Eating high levels of chocolate could reduce the risk of coronary heart disease and stroke, according to a review of previous research. It showed that the highest levels of chocolate consumption were associated with a 37% reduction in cardiovascular disease and a 29% reduction in stroke compared with the lowest levels. Data from 114,009 patients suggested risk was cut by about a third, according to a study published on the BMJ website. But the researchers warned that excessive consumption would result in other illnesses.

The analysis, conducted by scientists at the University of Cambridge, compared the risk to the brain and heart in groups of people who reported eating low levels of chocolate, fewer than two bars per week, with those eating high levels – more than two bars per week.

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Muscle magic Chocolate milk may help you recover after a hard workout. In a small study at Indiana University, elite cyclists who drank chocolate milk between workouts scored better on fatigue and endurance tests than those who had some sports drinks.

Another research at the Harvard University School of Public Health recently examined 136 studies on cocoa and found it does seem to boost heart health, according to an article in the European journal Nutrition and Metabolism.

“Studies have shown heart benefits from increased blood flow, less platelet stickiness and clotting, and improved bad cholesterol," says Mary B. Engler, Ph.D., a chocolate researcher and director of the Cardiovascular and Genomics Graduate Program at the University of California, San Francisco, School of Nursing. These benefits are the result of cocoa's antioxidant flavonoids, which seem to prevent both cell damage and inflammation.

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Chocolate and the brain It sounds almost too good to be true, but preliminary research at West Virginia's Wheeling Jesuit University suggests chocolate may boost your memory, attention span, reaction time and problemsolving skills by increasing blood flow to the brain.

Chocolate companies found comparable gains in similar research on healthy young women and on elderly people.

CONCLUSION While cocoa is the factor that is rich in flavonoids, the fat and the sugar must also come into consideration. For this reason, chocolate with 70% cocoa and above was the one that is recommended by experts and not your standard milk chocolate.

On the other hand, having a spa wrap in delicious dark chocolate sounds like a n a m a z i n g experience that I have yet to experience. Maybe it's time for a wrap with a difference.

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APJ1: Tell us a little about your demographics and the issue of competition in Darwin. What challenges do you face?

Anne: We have a fantastic location

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in that we are positioned right in the centre of Darwin's CBD and within a hotel, so we not only access the tourists, but also a lot of the local population, many of which are corporate clients working in the region. Our focus and goals are to establish a client-base of loyal, long-term, local clients who are committed to coming to us on a regular basis.

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We cater for a diverse demographic clientele and for this reason we provide a one-stop shop where our clients can find everything they want, from relaxation to wellness treatments, as well as slimming and advanced anti-ageing procedures.

From Darwin with Love Excellence first and foremost is an attitude, and it is one attribute that Anne Holleley, director of Harmony Darwin Day Spa, possesses.

Situated on Level 6 at the Mantra Pandanus resort in Darwin, Harmony Darwin Day Spa and its highly committed staff are providing the region with quality relaxation, wellness and antiageing services that their clients cannot get enough of.

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As a trained nurse, Anne is highly committed to standards and maintains a vigilant eye on the running of the day spa, ensuring that all clients receive quality services and are completely satisfied with their experience and results when visiting the spa. In fact the Harmony Day spa pledge of quality says it all – “If for any reason you are not completely delighted with our treatment, it's free.”

Anne has advanced her services to incorporate a very efficient wellness model with a holistic approach, so we decided to question her about her philosophy and how business is faring during these more challenging financial times.

I would have to say that our biggest challenge is finding and recruiting the right staff. We are so busy that right now we could easily use another three staff. For this reason we are pursuing the avenue of become a Registered Training Organisation.

APJ2: As Darwin has a very humid and hot climate most of the year what are the most common skin concerns that you have to address?

Anne: I would have to say that nearly all the clients we treat here have some level of sun damage. Darwin has an almost virtual yearround summer climate. Our approach is to provide them with a treatment plan that includes microdermabrassion, a variety of highstrength peels as well as other procedures such as collagen induction therapy with micro-needling, which also allows us to get

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incredible results. We use the Dermapen ® microneedling device that offers excellent and safe results through disposable needles. Dermapen® uses multiple needles that vertically pierce the skin.

This enhances rejuvenation results and is far safer for the client because there is much less epidermal damage. The automatic vibrating function of the Dermapen® increases the effectiveness of treatment by increasing absorption of products, while reducing pain and discomfort. It also gives us excellent results with scarring and stretch marks as well as strengthening collagen density. We purchased this from EquipMed.

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Our role is also to educate our clients on the need for using a quality UVA/UVB sunscreen. While many of them are aware of the need for sun protection, the necessity for ongoing education cannot be underestimated. We also recommend mineral makeup for the women, which they love because it is lightweight and appropriate for this climate, as well as offering SPF protection as an added bonus. Of course an appropriate skincare regime for home use is a must for all our clients. We use Ultraceuticals, ASAP and organic Jenesce products, so we have a diverse range of homecare options to suit every need and budget.

The Harmony Darwin Day Spa pledge of quality “If for any reason you are not completely delighted with our treatment, it's free.”

APJ3: What treatments have given you the best results?

Tell us any recent success story?

Anne: We have gained some amazing results that have created

quite a buzz that people are talking about and we have achieved these by combining microdermabasion and oxygen therapy. Using multiple modalities to infuse serums into the skin has allowed us to achieve visible results that we can be proud of. Getting great results leads to word-of-mouth advertising. There is nothing like your clients bragging about you to help your business grow.

We are also committed to ongoing education for our staff and currently we are working with Gay Wardle to bring our staff's knowledge on advanced skin analysis to a higher level. As we deal with both men and women it is important that our therapists understand the skin and the factors that effect ageing for both males and females.

APJ4: Do you provide specialty services, or do you provide a broad menu of services?

Anne: As we cater for a diverse demographic

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and a varying age-group we recognised that we need to cater for their various needs if we are to capture a growing database of clients and continue to grow. We therefore offer a vast array of treatment options such as not only spa and relaxation, but also anti-ageing, and in recent times slimming programs, and the latest addition is wellness services. As I am a qualified nurse and also hold qualifications in hypnotherapy we offer this service for the purpose of helping our clients to quit smoking, slimming and for drinking problems with great results. Each person is different so this is very much a personalised

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service that is delivered over three visits for the best results.

For slimming we call it the “virtual gastric banding” as it enables candidates to shift the way they related to food quality, as well as quantity. We also achieve great results through our body wraps, with guarantees for firming and toning.

Our latest treatment option is an excellent anti-ageing wellness program that clients love. This is a six-month program that offers them a variety of treatment options aimed at helping them achieve their anti-ageing goals. In this package we include lifestyle consultation that educates our clients on the five pillars of antiageing – exercise, diet, nutrition, stress management and hormones.

This is a very successful program and the APAN interest-free loan through their medical lender has enabled us to assist our clients to take this on through affordable payment plans that offers them greater financial ease.

Additionally, we still offer the standard beauty services of waxing, nails and a comprehensive retail line of products for our clients to purchase, including high-quality and effective sun-protection skincare.

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APJ5: What services or strategies have you included in your business to help you overcome the challenges of the GFC? Anne: There are many strategies that help a business survive and grow and I will try to point out the key ones that have worked for us.

Additionally, we also work with the Hair Free laser business downstairs. We have found that it is a better strategy for us to send them our clients for laser hair removal and they send us clients for skin rejuvenation, etc, than for us to introduce laser services in our business. You need to weigh up what will work the best for you. In this way we have established an excellent referral business that works well for both parties.

I believe that every business needs to develop an excellent website that is informative and simple to navigate, but also thorough in its information, as this is also key to the success of a business. Today, clients love to check you out and research you on your website first, so having your philosophy and standards clearly defined does make a difference as clients want to know what they can expect if they come to you. All our staff members have been inducted into the APAN Code of Ethics and we proudly advertise that as one of the standards that we have put in place for the benefit of our clients.

The issue of standards and how you are delivering them is an important consideration that leads to client trust. Engaging in social media is also important in this day and age as this is another key communication tool that allows your clients to interact and brag about you.

We also have established excellent Membership benefits to encourage value loyalty through value-added offers. Things like “buy five services and get one free”. We also have some excellent packages with different programs and there is something there for everyone. The key is that these packages have to be interesting and suit the needs of your various clientele.

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One of the major keys to survival is to diversify and provide services in your premises that engage other experts, as well as network with other businesses. Two examples I would like to mention is that we now work with a doctor who offers our clients fillers and injectables for their anti-ageing needs. This has been a very successful strategy that has allowed us to broaden our scope of treatment options, as well as secure additional revenue and client loyalty.

We also conduct regular VIP nights to educate our clients and create an environment for them to bring friends or family. These are excellent events to educate them, but also to launch new services as well as create a social club environment.

APJ6: How do you stay up-to-date with progress and changes in the industry?

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APJ7: What aspect of the business do you enjoy the most?

Anne: My biggest joy is working with a committed team and offering my support to help them achieve excellence. I love seeing my staff blossom and grow in their knowledge and confidence. I am a nurse, not a qualified aesthetic therapist, I am not hands-on with their treatments. I can therefore stand back and have a level of objectivity in the operational and management side of the business and work on issues of quality and standards. Coming from a medical background I value the standards that I have been used to in hospitals. Additionally, I work on ensuring that the services we develop are always interesting to the staff so that they can also take pleasure in providing them.

APJ 8: What do you do to keep your staff productive and focused in meeting the business's goals?

Anne: I conduct monthly staff meetings to energise and keep our goals clear in their minds. My leadership style involves me demonstrating what is expected. I am a firm believer that you need to lead by example and therefore I also train my senior staff to become mentoring buddies to the new staff members. I also encourage the staff to put forward their recommendations for say, our VIP nights, and wherever possible they also participate in regional health expos, where we communicate who we are and gain new clients from such events.

APJ 9: Tell us about the culture you create in your spa that gives you a competitive advantage?

Anne: The culture that I foster in our spa is that we are a caring team that provides, not only appearance enhancement services, but we also treatments and services that spill over into supporting internal wellbeing and health. We advocate that while the external is all about appearance the internal wellbeing is about survival and good management should include both. We aim to create an environment that provides a combination of quality professional services in a comfortable and relaxed environment.

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Our philosophy, which states the following, says it all: Blending beauty and wellness treatments ensures a holistic approach to not only looking good, but feeling great at any age.

The Harmony Darwin Day Spa creates a safe haven for time out and respite for body, mind and spirit.

Services and products are designed to be relaxing, therapeutic, youth restoring and most importantly, simple enough to continue at home.

Remember to discuss your needs with your therapist during your spa experience, so you receive the quality of care you deserve.

Harmony Darwin Day Spa is located at Level 6 Mantra Pandanus 43 Knuckey Street Darwin Northern Territory Telephone 08 8942 1737

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NEW STRATEGIC ALLIANCE WITH WESTERN UNION TO PROVIDE A NEW SOURCE OF INCOME ORK

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me abreast of what is happening in the industry. The comprehensive website also helps me gain in a snapshot what is happening in the industry. The journal APJ of course I consider is world-class and always full of quality, well-researched education that allows me to determine my choices. You can always rely on it for quality, credible and accurate information. Knowing that I have access to industry experts is also a great advantage and one that I turn to when I need help.

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Anne: My membership to APAN has been invaluable in keeping

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APAN In difficult economic times survivors and thrivers think outside the box. You need new clients and new revenue streams.

APAN is pleased to offer its members a great opportunity that can help you achieve just that with minimal outlay of time and effort to tap into the credibility of a Fortune 500 global company and let them drive new business to your door.

Western Union is offering APAN members the opportunity to become Agents of their Money transfer services. With more than 160 years of experience and over 450,000 Agent locations around the world in 200 countries, the Western Union network is the largest of its kind. Millions of people trust Western Union to send or receive money around the world within minutes.

It costs nothing to offer the Western Union service each agent earns a commission per transaction. The advantages to your business are:

! ! ! ! ! !

Customer acquisition another service for you to offer to your customer base Additional revenue from commissions Free software to process transactions Free training and ongoing support Quick transaction processing time Free Signage and Point Of Sale material

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Current Western Union agents earn thousands of dollars per month.

For further information or to register for this service phone APAN 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com

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How to grow your business with

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FACEBOOK

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Gaining inside tips from the expert

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Social media marketing is the new tool that everyone is talking about and Facebook would have to be the Star Performer that everyone in the beauty and aesthetic industry wants to perfect. But are their pitfalls and realistically, what can Facebook actually achieve for a salon business?

Marc Stubbs is fast becoming recognised in the beauty industry as the Facebook Expert, specialising specifically in the needs of salons. Polite, well-spoken and unassuming, Marc is nonetheless astute when in comes to IT matters, as this is where his passion lies.

Coming from a family heritage of beauty therapists (his mother is Veronica Stubbs, the daughter of well-known beauty business coach Caroline Nelson), from a young age he has been immersed in the world of beauty and feels right at home with the dynamics of the business of beauty.

We caught up with Marc to discuss the whole issue of Facebook and what he believes determines the success it can play to a salon business.

APJ1: What role do you believe that Facebook can play in boosting business traffic to a salon business and why?

Marc: Facebook is a very important tool to any salon business because it is one of the most contemporary communication methods that people use today. In Australia it is accessed by almost 11 million people, many of which are 20 to 50-year-old women, which is most salon owners' target market. Part of the appeal of Facebook has to do with the informal way that people can interact, share information and learn from one another. It is a very easy way to find out what is happening. Salons can use this tool to let their clients know of new products or services, special promotions and new treatments.

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Many people like the less-confronting way that they can scan through information privately in their own time. It is an effective and inexpensive way of keeping in touch with your clients and constantly keeps them involved with you and what you are offering them.

Facebook is one of the best ways to ensure client connectedness and retention.

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APJ2: Can you give us an example of what kind of business volume increases have salons experienced through you optimising their Facebook?

Marc: An excellent example that comes to mind is a salon in

Kalgoorlie, Western Australia that had an amazing response. They started with just 100 likes and in two months they had over 1000 fans.

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With this increase whey decided to increase their promotional activity and the sales skyrocketed.

They conducted three VIP Promotion Days and all their treatment packages were sold out.

You will also find that if you put a post about a treatment people will book on-line as it is easy and convenient for them to do so. When Facebook is correctly serviced and optimised it can substantially increase your bookings and make selling your promotions a lot easier.

APJ3: In your opinion what it the biggest mistake or biggest challenges that salons face with their Facebook?

Marc: I can name several, but the four most common that immediately come to mind are: ! Lack of consistency – If people are going to visit your Facebook you need to keep it active and fun, with new information going up on a regular basis. ! Using Facebook just for advertising – People want fun, interactive things, not just you selling to them. You need to vary the content and not just talk about products, but on matters that may be relevant to your clients. ! Too many breaks in communication – If you have not put a post up for weeks and you have neglected your Facebook the interest will drop and it will be difficult to get people interested to go back to your page. ! Don't separate themselves from their business – You need to separate your personal and business pages and don't send your clients to your personal page. Keep that for family and friends.

While you can still maintain a level of fun on your business page, you must still keep it focused and professional if it is going to be a successful business tool. When posting on your business page, talk as if you are the business and not the individual.

APJ4: Why did you choose to specialise in Social Media and specifically with Facebook for the beauty industry?

Marc: I have always been passionate about IT and Facebook. As my family background has a strong beauty therapy heritage I grew up understanding the salon environment and its needs well. Then one day Caroline Nelson asked me to help her by managing her Facebook and in a short time I was able to help her achieve substantial growth.

From there she was approached by others in the industry who wanted to know how she had done so well in such a short amount of time and before long I was able to use my knowledge of both IT and the beauty industry to help salon owners.

APJ5: What services do you provide and what benefits do you offer businesses?

Marc: Salon businesses often do not have the time for Facebook or do not have the skills, experience or the understanding of how it works.

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growth. My job is to ensure that Facebook pages that I manage are up-to-date with the use of the latest features.

The objective is to give the salon owner the best possible results.

APJ7: Can you give us an example of the kind of results you have achieved in optimising a business's traffic?

Marc: A prime

For them I can provide a service where I can take the pressure off them by making sure the page constantly has fresh information and that the pages grow in personal responses. Often therapists don't understand how to make everything work for them. They don't have the knowledge or experience.

My services include:

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Setting up a business's Facebook from scratch Optimising an existing Facebook Keeping up with the everchanging Facebook interface (Timeline is the most recent change) Using specialist tools to increase activity

APJ6: As Facebook is becoming more popular, do you believe that it will become a specialised area that will require the necessity of staying in touch with new regulations, rules and technical information in order to optimise the results that a business can achieve?

Marc: There is no doubt that Facebook is becoming much more specialised. While some stumble through it and do OK, progressively we are seeing the introduction of more advanced features, and it takes time to learn and access this knowledge in order to optimise a Facebook page with the latest features that will contribute to business

example is what I was able to achieve with Caroline Nelson and the Nelson Beauty Business Facebook page.

When I commenced managing it there was only 56 fans and in a short period of time it reached 2232 fans.

Most of these are loyal salon owners who like to get involved in sharing information with each other. This increase also contributed to a huge increase in her business activity. She now cannot keep up with bookings to her seminars, and we have even had to discuss holding even more seminars to keep up.

APJ8: Marc, can you share with us some useful strategies on how to achieve great results?

Marc: First, keep consistent. For a page to be successful, it needs regular content. Even if it is just a post about how cold the weather is, Facebook fans need to be reminded that you are there. One post a day is a good benchmark. Second, vary your content. If you only post about what treatments you have and their prices, people tune out.

Space out advertising with interesting facts, tips and relevant videos.

Third, don't be afraid to make mistakes. Facebook is an informal method of communication, and a spelling error here and there is endearing, it makes you seem more human.

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If you would like to speak to Marc Stubbs about ways to improve your Facebook and to discuss further about his services you can contact him at Marc@BeautySalonSocialMedia.net or 0420 311 535.

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Proven strategies for preventing

OVERWEIGHT AND OBESITY

By Dr Frances Pitsilis As the obesity epidemic is continuing to plague our nation we are seeing weight management, slimming and cellulite treatments gaining consumer interest and becoming more in demand. While there are several excellent technologies that offer excellent results, unless the factors that are causing the problem are carefully examined and addressed slimming results will be temporary and sometimes even unsuccessful.

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Dr Frances Pitsilis is a personal and corporate physician based in New Zealand who specialises in longevity medicine, integrated and complementary medicine. She is a frequent speaker at conferences and is regularly interviewed on radio and TV programs as well as a feature writer with several trade and consumer publications. She will be a speaker at the AustralAsian Integrative and Aesthetics Workshop in Melbourne on Sunday 19th August 2012. This workshop is a full day program designed for the benefit of Aesthetics, Dermal and Spa therapists and Managers as well as RNs and will be run in conjunction with the 6th Annual 2012 Conference in Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine hosted by the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M).

Dr Pistilis is an avid researcher and her lectures are strongly supported by validated research which gives her information great credence and integrity. At the AustralAsian Integrative & Aesthetics Workshop this year she will be presenting the latest information on Metabolic Disorders and the Ageing Process, Obesity, Weight Loss Treatments and Protocols.

In this brief article Dr Pistilis offers some simple, helpful hints that could benefit you and your clients when addressing the issue of successful weightloss. ㄰

Weight loss can require commitment and an investment in time, money and effort. But once you loose the weight how easy is it to put it back one. Below I am presenting some simple strategies that are support by research studies to assist with weight loss and minimising the risk of regaining weight.

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EATING FAST CAUSES OBESITY

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A Japanese study looking at eating speed and feelings of fullness showed, when looking at fast eating, that 84% of men who eat fast are

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more likely to become overweight and 50% of women are likely to suffer the same fate. When the study looked at fast eating, in addition to waiting until you feel full, all people were over three times more likely to become overweight. This is because the signals to the brain from your stomach to tell you when to stop eating are slow. If you eat too fast your stomach will fill before you can register that it is full.

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This problem can have been caused in people by learning in childhood to eat more and quickly. It could also be an evolutionary advantage – grab more food while it is available.

Studies have shown that the old wives tale to chew your food 20 times before swallowing is true – this way you will never overfill yourself before the signal to stop eating reaches your brain.

HOW ABOUT THOSE OF YOU WHO ONLY EAT WHEN YOU ARE HUNGRY? If you wish to maintain your weight this is not a good idea, because if you wait until you are hungry you will eat the most handy thing available, which may well be a poor choice. The hunger messenger in your brain called ghrelin activates centres in your brain that form part of a primitive reward system that is involved in addictive behaviours, so you see food as a “reward” more when you are hungry. This leads to more desperate food behaviour – you will grasp the nearest and quickest thing available, rather than making a wise food choice. It is best for you to eat regularly and not allow yourself to become hungry.

When it comes to alcohol, anything over four alcohol drinks a day, or binge drinking, increases obesity. It is best to drink less than five drinks a week if you want to maintain your weight.

Also watch out for that drink before a meal because this increases your appetite and you eat more.

Eating in front of the TV certainly leads to obesity because you don't notice how much you are eating. Studies have shown that women watching three hours of television versus those watching one hour of television have eaten 1.9 times more. In men the figure is 2.2 times more.

If you want to manage your weight smartly, you need to think about the way you eat, not just what you eat.

TIPS FOR WAIST WEIGHT LOSS

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The abdominal region is often one of the toughest areas to shift fat.

Now research confirms some of the reasons that may contribute to this problem.

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Here are some tips to help those who have difficulty losing weight from around their waist:

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Be in bed and asleep by 10.30pm. Because melatonin increases when you go to bed earlier, there are fewer inflammatory messengers which contribute to retention of weight around the waist. Leptin, which tells the body when it has had enough to eat, also increases when you've had enough sleep.

The diet needs to be devoid of sugar, starch and processed foods, because they add bulk to the diet with only a little nutritional value. You need to eat adequate protein in the form of nuts, beans, meat, some cheeses, fish and chicken, etc., as well as plenty of vegetables and some fruit, but not too much.

Primitive man was said to have walked 12kms a day. Getting exercise back into the lifestyle is very important. Exercise in small

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doses works, you don’t need to have a huge amount of exercise all at once. So take the stairs at work or park the car a bit further away.

Managing stress is very important, because chronic daily stress increases inflammation messengers in the body that make you fat around the waist and affect your health. Stress affects many aspects in the body, including hormone levels, vitamin levels and even gut bacteria and gastric acid.

Avoid pollution. It is known that persistent organic pollutants within the environment can contribute to keep fat in the body, as these pollutants and chemicals are stored in the fat. This may be a reason why some people have difficulty losing fat.

Correct any deficiencies, possibly by taking supplements of Vitamin B12, iron and magnesium. Special nutrients such as magnesium, chromium, zinc and fish oil can help the body to manage sugar better.

Correct any hormone imbalances. This can include thyroid in both sexes, testosterone in men and women, and progesterone mainly in women.

Medically prescribed Metformin helps the body to make less insulin and manage glucose better. It even helps reduce cancer and prevents weight gain.

Alpha lipoic acid is a substance that recycles Vitamin C and your antioxidant vitamins. It has a special role in weight loss and in diabetes.

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Dr Frances Pitsilis can be contacted in New Zealand on Ph + 64 9 486 0030 Fax + 64 9 489 7298 Mob + 64 21 672 872 Email: drfrances@xtra.co.nz Web: http://www.drfrances.co.nz/index.html http://www.skinfresh.co.nz

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APJ 105

jobsatisfaction ㄰

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JOB SATISFACTION AND A SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS Mark D Viney Within any workplace there are various stakeholders, each with different perspectives and points of view. Each comes to work daily with different motivations and aims. Often one group doesn't recognise what the other group needs. One of the greatest challenge facing businesses today is to develop a cohesive workplace – getting all people in the workplace, regardless of their designation, to respect one another and the tasks that each perform, and get on the same page with what the business is about and where it is going. The best way to do this is to develop a business culture that all the stakeholders respect and build towards.

WHY ARE WE DOING WHAT WE ARE DOING?

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The first question all stakeholders need to ask themselves is WHY are they doing what they are doing. Regardless of your position in a business the answer to this should be more than earning money. Yes earning money is important, but if that is your major reason for doing something then you need to change your outlook. If all you are getting up in the morning and going to work for is to earn a buck, then you cannot be happy in your workplace.

GETTING MONEY IS A VERY POOR GOAL

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If your job satisfaction comes from the money you earn then you can only remain satisfied if the amount you earn is constantly being raised.

This is not a realistic option in any business, regardless of your position in it. So by having money as your main goal you condemn yourself to being unhappy with most of your life.

Having been both an employee and an employer in small business, it

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has always amazed me that employees don't understand the basic facts about the business and their job. That is, if you don't bring money into the business through your work then your job disappears. In fact, of the money you bring in, only about 25% at the most can go towards your wage. The rest is needed to cover the overhead costs of the business. Think about all the things that need to be paid every week or month. Rent, water, electricity, phone, internet, insurance, etc. None of these things are cheap and they all have increased significantly in the past few years.

Often an employee will feel that the business owner is making heaps of money off their back. But in the majority of cases the owner is the last one to get paid out of the business income, and often they take far less wages than their employees.

EMPLOYEES NEED TO SEE THE BIGGER PICTURE As an employee you need to keep your eye on the bigger picture. If you want to have a secure job then YOU need to work hard at bringing in the clients and the cash-flow they bring. You need to see that your JOB SECURITY is dependent on doing your job well. Re-booking clients and selling product to them is not just to keep your boss happy, but is a vital element in your job security. And in the current economic climate that is very important.

Engage yourself in the work process. Look for ways to help improve it. Look at ways of increasing cash-flow. As one who is hands-on with the client, your ideas are valuable. Talk with the business owner about your ideas.

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APJ 106

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As a professional you should belong to a professional body like APAN. You should be involved in continually learning and training.

Go to conferences, do advanced training courses. Invest your time and money in you as a professional.

Talking with business owners regularly I am constantly amazed how many have staff who they have to drag along with them. They want to invest in new product lines and equipment, but cannot get the staff willing to put some of their time into the training to get up-to-speed with the new treatments. They want to take their staff to conferences or courses, but the staff are unwilling to pay for anything. They offer to pay their staffs' conference or course fees, but the staff want to be paid their wage to come along. They offer to pay their wage as well (or give them time in lieu) and the staff are not willing to give up a night or weekend day. Worst still is when their staff agree to come, and they pay for them, and on the day or night they just don’t turn up or they leave early.

If you are an employee and are reading this you probably are not like the staff above. You have actually picked up an educational read like this journal and are actual doing more than looking at the pictures. You are investing in your knowledge. Good on you!

Reward yourself and your staff when you meet the targets. Link exceeding targets with bonus and extra rewards.

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As a group invest in your on-going professional development. Go to conferences and do courses as a group. Then when you get back spend time debriefing on what you have learnt. Talk about how you as a group can include what you have learnt into the business.

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As a business owner it can be initially very daunting opening the facts up to your staff. But the rewards are well worth it. With the involvement of all the staff in the process the business can be much more successful. With everyone going in the same direction you create a vibrant workplace, a happy environment that both staff and clients will love to be in.

Many staff feel undervalued. They often grumble about their wages and work conditions because they don’t feel part of what is happening.

They substitute money for the real want, which is to be part of something they can actively contribute to. What they really want is JOB SATISFACTION. Satisfaction comes from setting goals and meeting them. Not plastic, unassociated goals, but real integrated goals. Goals that they recognise and contribute to. The money you get as a wage can never replace this.

EMPLOYERS NEED TO ENGAGE WITH THEIR STAFF As a business owner you get to carry all the pressure of making ends meet. Do yourself a big favour and share that with your staff. What do I mean? Let the staff know what the base level income the business requires to survive. Explain this simply in terms of how many treatments needed, products sold, etc. You could go as far as letting them know for each treatment what percentage of the income is the cost.

We are in a service industry. To work in it we have a focus on serving.

Let us start by looking at how we can serve one another. If you are an employee get a hold of the big picture and get involved. If you are a business owner, engage with your staff. Let them into the pressures of the business. You will be surprised how they will respond. It is amazing how re-booking and products sales become much easier when there is a motivation.

Get them onboard with you so you are working together to meet the goals. Engage their ideas of how to do something better or what new treatments or products might be successfully integrated into the salon.

Whether employee or employer, your workplace can be a very satisfying place to be. You together can create a place you just want to be at. A place where you belong; an important team member. A place where you obtain the holy grail – job satisfaction AND a successful business.

If you and the staff work as a team on setting and meeting targets there will be a flow-on effect that you will find you and the staff will get great job satisfaction from.

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APJ 107

legalmatters ㄰

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Personal Property Security Act (PPSA) The new regulations that could affect you!

By Michele Bishop, Director Pointon Partners Lawyers and Trademark Attorneys In 2009 new legislation called the Personal Property Securities Act (PPSA) was passed. The Act will come into force in May 2011.

It is based on similar legislation previously enacted in both Canada and New Zealand.

The PPSA triggers profound changes in the way security is taken over personal property. Financiers, along with businesses operating across all industries – but particularly in the manufacturing, wholesale and retail sectors – will be affected.

The Act applies to almost all forms of tangible and intangible property owned by any type of legal entity, including money, goods, motor vehicles, hire purchase agreements, accounts receivable, long-term leases, investment securities and documents of title. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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The intent of the PPSA is to streamline procedures involved in formal insolvency appointments. It replaces a number of existing registers, including the ASIC Register of Charges, and the Register of Encumbered Vehicles (REVs), which is based on legal form and the holding of title, and moves to a single regime based on the substance of the transaction. The PPSA will apply to debentures, chattel mortgages, retention of title, hire purchase, leases exceeding one year, assignments of debt, consignments, and security trust deeds.

However, the practical applications of the Act have wider implications than insolvent companies and insolvency practitioners. This is particularly the case if you or your business lease out equipment or supply goods to other businesses on delayed settlement terms.

This article presented by Pointon Partners Lawyers briefly outlines what is involved. If you are a supplier of products or equipment or a salon who is purchasing products on terms or leasing equipment it is highly recommended that you read this article as it most probably affects you.

The Personal Property Securities Act 2009 has introduced some fundamental changes to the laws of securities and property (other than real estate). Pursuant to the Act, the Personal Property Securities Register (‘PPSR’) commenced operation at the end of January 2012.

The PPSR is an online register of security interests in personal property.

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The concept of a 'security interest' is central to the Act. Security interests may arise where: ! Personal property is used to secure payment or performance of an obligation (e.g. retention of title, hire purchase, finance lease, etc); or ! Personal property is leased or bailed.

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APJ 108

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Personal property includes all forms of legal property, other than land and goods fixed to land (e.g. buildings), and it includes tangible and intangible property (e.g. intellectual property products and equipment).

Transactions that give rise to security interests may be affected by the Act and such security interests may need to be registered on the PPSR within strict timeframes. In terms of the cosmetics industry, the Act may be relevant in the following circumstances:

TERMS OF TRADE THAT INCLUDE RETENTION OF TITLE If your business supplies goods on a retention of title basis (i.e. where legal ownership of the goods does not pass until the purchase price has been paid for the goods), then you will be required to register your security interest on the PPSR. If your business acquires goods that are subject to retention of title, then you should be aware that the supplier may register its security interest in the goods on the PPSR and you will have to ensure that the security interest is deregistered as soon as it is satisfied. You should also be aware that the supplier may contract out of certain notice obligations under the Act.

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POINTON PARTNERS LAWYERS

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If you have any queries in relation to the above article or any other legal issues affecting your business please feel free to contact Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners.

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APAN members receive an initial free consultation in relation to any legal queries or issues they may have.

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Pointon Partners is a client-focused commercial law firm based in Melbourne, but which services clients nationally. Pointon Partners is able to assist with: ! advice on obligations under the Fair Work Act & the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010; ! preparation of employment contracts; ! advice on termination of staff & defending of unfair dismissal claims; ! registration of trademarks; ! trademark disputes; ! preparation or review of commercial leases; ! negotiation & preparation of commercial contracts; ! franchising; ! wills and estate planning; and ! buying or selling a business.

LEASING OR HIRING OF EQUIPMENT Supposing your business distributes or leases equipment to the beauty industry. One of your lessees is a salon that goes into administration. In theory your equipment could be sold by the administrator and its value realised for the benefit of creditors if you had not registered security over it. This scenario is overly– simplified, but nonetheless illustrates the effect of the PPSA. Therefore if your business leases or hires equipment, then you may be required to register your security interest in the equipment on the PPSR. Failure to register appropriately (if required) may result in loss of ownership of the equipment in favour of someone with a properly registered security interest in the equipment (e.g. the lessee's financier under a charge).

On the other hand, as a salon owner, if your business gets equipment by way of lease or hire then you should be aware that the lessor may register its security interest in the equipment on the PPSR and you will have to ensure that the security interest is deregistered as soon as it is satisfied. You should also be aware that the supplier may contract out of certain notice obligations under the Act. The above are examples of the common transactions that may be affected by the Act, however, the ambit of the Act is far reaching and therefore you should seek expert legal advice in relation to transactions involving your business. The cost of obtaining expert legal advice at the outset will most likely outweigh the risk of entering into transactions without such advice. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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If a security interest is validly registered on the PPSR, then a secured party (i.e. the person holding the security interest) may be able to enforce the security interest by the following methods: ! The secured party may be able to trace into the proceeds of sale of the personal property. For example, if your business supplies goods to customers on retention of title basis and the customer sells the goods to third parties, then you may have a security interest in the customer's book debt in relation to that sale to the third party or the proceeds of sale; or ! The secured party may be able to enforce its security interest notwithstanding that the property securing an obligation has been

Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners can be contacted on (03) 9642 8668 or by email mjb@pointonpartners.com.au or ah@pointonpartners.com.au

installed in or affixed to other goods. For example, if your business supplies components for a machine on a retention of title basis and those components are installed in a machine, then you may continue to have a security interest in the components.

Depending on the circumstances, you may have priority against someone that has a secured interest in the machine.

In addition to the above, a secured party may be able to exercise a power of sale or may be able to retain the personal property that was the subject of the security interest.

The Act provides for a two-year transitional period within which secured parties can adapt to the Act and the operation of the PPSR. During this period, security interests created prior to 30 January 2012 can be registered on the PPSR to ensure that they maintain their appropriate priority as against other security interests. Therefore, if you or your business was granted security interests prior to 30 January 2012, then you should ensure that those security interests are registered on the PPSR as soon as possible.

All charges registered on the ASIC Register of Company Charges were automatically migrated across to the PPSR upon commencement of the PPSR, however, the PPSR should be searched to ensure that migration occurred properly as some problems with the migration process have been reported.

If you believe that this law could affect you, you should seek appropriate advice and put steps in place to mitigate risk to ensure that the interests of your business are protected. Pointon Partners Lawyers can assist you in this way. Contact Michael Bishop on 03 9642 8668.

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APJ 109

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

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This section presents news and research information relating to skin and anti-ageing discoveries.

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Newly Identified Compound in Red Grapes for Weight Management

Kwon JY, Seo SG, Heo YS, Yue S, Cheng JX, Lee KW, Kim KH. “Piceatannol, a natural polyphenolic stilbene, inhibits adipogenesis via modulation of mitotic clonal expansion and insulin receptor-dependent insulin signaling in the early phase of differentiation.” J Biol Chem., Jan 31, 2012

Exercise Essential to Reduce Metabolic Syndrome Risk

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A compound found in red grape seeds and skin, blueberries and passionfruit, piceatannol is of a similar molecular structure to resveratrol. Kee-Hong Kim, from Purdue University (Indiana, USA), and colleagues have found that piceatannol binds to insulin receptors of immature fat cells in the first stage of adipogenesis the process in which early stage fat cells become mature fat cells, blocking insulin's ability to control cell cycles and activate genes that carry out further stages of fat cell formation.

Essentially, piceatannol blocks the pathways necessary for immature fat cells to mature and grow. The study authors conclude that: “Our study reveals an anti-adipogenic function of piceatannol and highlights [insulin resistance] and its downstream insulin signalling as novel targets for piceatannol in the early phase of adipogenesis.”

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Metabolic syndrome is a constellation of symptoms including high cholesterol, high blood pressure and extra weight around the middle part of the body which, when present together, increase the risk for coronary disease, stroke and Type 2 diabetes. Paul Loprinzi, from Oregon State University (Oregon, USA), and colleagues studied the correlation between physical activity, depression and metabolic syndrome. Analysing data collected on 1146 men and

women, the team found that women were getting only about 18 minutes of moderate-tovigorous exercise daily, compared to men who, on average, were getting 30 minutes of moderate-to-vigorous exercise daily.

As result, the women were at greater odds of developing depression, elevated cholesterol and metabolic syndrome. The study authors conclude that: “Active individuals were … less likely to have metabolic syndrome … [and] less likely to simultaneously have all three morbidities … [with] greater strengths of associations occurred for women compared to men.”

contribute to the ageing process. Robert Krikorian, from the University of Cincinnati Health Center (Ohio, USA), and colleagues enrolled 21 men and women, average age 76 years, with mild cognitive impairment, in a 16-week-long study. Subjects received either a weight-dependent quantity of Concord grape juice, equivalent to 6.3 to 7.8 mL per kilogram of body weight, or a placebo beverage. Results showed that consumption of grape juice was associated with fewer errors in memory tasks, compared with the placebo.

Magnetic resonance image of the brains of the study participants showed significantly greater activation in anterior and posterior regions on the right side of the brain of the subjects receiving the grape juice, suggesting improvements in memory performance and mental function. The study authors conclude that: "These findings provide further evidence that Concord grape juice can

Paul D. Loprinzi, Bradley J. Cardinal.

“Interrelationships among physical activity, depression, homocysteine, and metabolic syndrome with special considerations by sex”. Preventive Medicine, 31 March 2012.

Grape Juice for Brain Health Concord grape juice is rich in polyphenols, an important antioxidant compound that helps to combat reactive oxygen species suggested to enhance neurocognitive function in older adults with mild memory decline.”

Robert Krikorian, Erin L. Boespflug, David E. Fleck, Amanda L. Stein, JoLynne D. Wightman, Marcelle D. Shidler, Sara Sadat-Hossieny.

“Concord Grape Juice Supplementation and Neurocognitive Function in Human Aging.” J. Agric. Food Chem., April 2, 2012.

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APJ 110

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Vitamin C Helps to Regulate Blood Pressure High blood pressure (hypertension) is a leading cause of cardiovascular disease, with more than 1 billion people worldwide suffering from the condition. Stephen P Juraschek, from Johns Hopkins School of Medicine (Maryland, USA), and colleagues completed a meta-analysis of 29 clinical trials, in which the median dose of vitamin C supplementation was 500 mg per day for a median duration of eight weeks. Across study subjects, the researchers found that vitamin C supplementation reduced systolic blood pressure by 3.84 mm Hg and diastolic blood pressure by 1.48 mm Hg. Further, when the team looked at hypertensive patients only, vitamin C supplementation exerted an even greater benefit reducing systolic pressure by 4.85 mm Hg and diastolic pressure by 1.67 mm Hg. The study authors conclude that: "In short-term trials, vitamin C supplementation reduced [systolic blood pressure] and [diastolic blood pressure].”

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Stephen P Juraschek, Eliseo Guallar, Lawrence J Appel, Edgar R Miller III. “Effects of vitamin C supplementation on blood pressure: a meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials.” Am J Clin Nutr., April 4, 2012.

Dramatic Rise in Skin Cancer Despite the rates of some cancers being on the decline, Mayo Clinic researchers report an alarming dramatic rise in skin cancer, particularly among people under the age of 40. Jerry Brewer and colleagues analysed

data collected for the R o c h e s t e r Epidemiology Project, looking at diagnoses of melanoma in patients ages 18 to 39 years, from 1970 to 2009. The team found that the incidence of melanoma increased eightfold among young women and fourfold among young men.

The researchers speculate that the use of indoor tanning beds is a key culprit in the rising cancer rate in young women. Researchers did find that mortality rates from the disease have improved over the years, likely due to early detection of skin cancer and prompt medical care. Warning that: “The incidence of cutaneous melanoma among young adults is rapidly increasing, especially among women,” the study authors urge that: "Continued close monitoring of this high-risk population is necessary.”

Kurtis B. Reed, Jerry D. Brewer, Christine M. Lohse, Kariline E. Bringe, et al. “Increasing Incidence of Melanoma Among Young Adults: An Epidemiological Study in Olmsted County, Minnesota.” Mayo Clinic Proceedings Vol. 87, Issue 4, Pages 328-334.

Soy Helps to Lower Blood Pressure Individuals who ingest the highest amounts of soy protein in a day appear to see a significant lowering of their systolic blood pressure, as compared to those who ingest the least amounts. Specifically, Safiya Richardson, from Columbia University (New York, USA), and colleagues analysed data collected on 5,115 Americans, aged 18 to 30 years, enrolled in the CARDIA trial, collected over a 20-year period. Subjects who consumed 2.5 mg per day or more of dietary isoflavones demonstrated a 5.52 mm Hg reduction in systolic blood pressure. Noting that "there is no particular detriment to taking soy protein in the diet,” the study authors suggest that: "consuming soy protein, for example, in combination with a DASH diet – one that is high in fruits and vegetables, low-fat dairy and whole grains – could lead to as much as a 10 mm Hg drop in systolic blood pressure for pre-hypertensives, greatly improving their chances of not progressing to hypertension.”

Richardson S, et al, "Dietary isoflavone intake is associated with lower systolic blood pressure: The coronary artery risk development in young adults (CARDIA) study" [Abstract 1178-25]. Presented at American College of Cardiology Scientific Session, March 29, 2012.

Courtesy: The American Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine and The AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (www.a5m.net)

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APJ 111

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Earlier this year, researchers at the Genesis Breast Cancer Prevention Centre at the University Hospital of South Manchester, England, released the results of a three-year study that measured the concentrations of five parabens at four different locations across the human breast using human breast tissue collected from 40 women undergoing mastectomies for primary breast cancer (J App Toxicol. Jan. 12, 2012). This most recent study found one or more paraben esters in 158/160 (99 per cent) of the tissue samples, and in 96/160 (60 per cent) all five esters were present.

Because the 2004 study found parabens in human breast tumor tissue, a global debate has been sparked and researchers are further investigating paraben toxicity and their potential role in breast cancer. Two studies conducted in 2005 (Golden et al., 2005; Soni et al., 2005) determined parabens possess low toxicity; but since 1998, research has shown parabens possess oestrogenic properties (reviewed in Darbre and Harvey, 2008; Routledge et al., 1998), which is known to play a central role in the development, growth and progression of breast cancer (Miller, 1996). Although the source of the paraben could not be identified in the human breast tissue, it was suggested that low-level dermal absorption from personal-care products applied to the breast region over the long term might have contributed.

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them to accumulate in fatty tissues, according to an article,

Breast Cancer and Parabens?

According to a 2010 study, exposure to environmental oestrogens occurs through diet, household products and cosmetics; but generally, their concentrations are too low to cause an oestrogenic response (Anticancer Res. 2010;30:815-28). The study found that, although the former is true, when exposed to enough chemicals the small doses that accumulate in breast tissue can potentially add up to induce an oestrogenic response..

Britain is reporting a continued disproportionate incidence of breast cancer in the upper outer quadrant of the breast, which is where many personal-care products are applied. Interestingly, the current study

reported that although the source of the paraben could not be identified, parabens were found in 7/40 patients who reported never having used underarm cosmetics in their lifetime.

"The intriguing discovery that parabens are present even in women who have never used underarm products raises the question: where have these chemicals come from?" said Lester Barr, consultant surgeon at the University Hospital of South Manchester and Chairman of the Genesis Breast Cancer Prevention Appeal, which part sponsored the recent 2012 study.

Why do parabens collect in the breast?

Because of the fatty nature of human breast tissue, it's a prime target for lipophilic and hydrophilic pollutant chemicals that possess a range of endocrine-disrupting properties and genotoxic activity (CML Breast Cancer.

2010;22(4):113-22). With regards to breast cancer, this is a concern because of their ability to mimic or interfere with the action of estrogen.

The difference between plant-based phytoestrogens such as soybeans, legumes, cereals and hops that have oestrogenic activity is they can be consumed in relatively large amounts via diet, but they are cleared from the body relatively quickly; however, manmade POPs (persistent organochlorine pollutants) used in agriculture such as herbicides and pesticides, and PCBs (polychlorinated biphenyls), also possess estrogenic activity; but because of their lipophilic properties, they are passed up the food chain, dissolved in dietary fat, and are not cleared from the body easily, causing

"Personal Care Products and Breast Cancer," written by Philippa D. Darbe, M.D., leader in oncology, School of Biological Sciences, Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences at the University of Reading, England. The article cited classes of personal-care products that are exposed to the breast area, including shaving creams, skin and suncare products, feminine hygiene, fragrances, haircare products, etc.; in addition to chemicals used in personal-care products that have shown oestrogenic activity (in vitro and in vivo), including aluminum chlorhydrate, which is used in antiperspirants, a product almost everyone uses on a daily basis. This past autumn, researchers at the California Pacific Medical Center reinforced the c o n c e r n b i s p h e n o l - A ( B PA ) a n d methylparaben (MP), at low concentrations, can have adverse health consequences such as an increased risk of breast cancer (Carcinogenesis. Sept. 1, 2011). So not only are the chemicals inside personal-care products a concern, but plastic packaging is, too.

Although there seems be a hefty amount of research linking parabens in breast tissue, Darbe stated that: “There is no proven link with breast cancer either of parabens or any personal-care product; however, absence of evidence is not evidence of absence; we simply do not know one way or the other. If these chemicals did not enter the human breast, then there would be no question. The fact that they are there needs more research to find out if they can cause any adverse effects from their presence either alone or in combination. Personally, I have always felt that the issue is bigger than parabens alone – that is not to say that I do not hypothesise that parabens play a role, but rather that the overall picture involves more than just parabens.

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“So the question is no longer if personal-care products can be absorbed into the body (which clearly they can be, according to their measured presence), but whether or not there is a causal relationship between individual or combinations of chemicals and the development of breast cancer, which is still to be determined. I think no matter if this

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APJ 112

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relationship has been confirmed or denied or explained, there is something to say about repeatedly finding parabens in breast tissues.”

healthy weight. Lee M K a p l a n , f r o m Massachusetts General Hospital (Massachusetts, USA), and colleagues e n r o l l e d 1 7 1 overweight/obese men and women, average age 40 years, in a 16-weeklong parallel, doubleblind, placebo-controlled trial. The test groups consumed three 240 mL glasses of a regular or light orange juice per day.

Calcium Plus Vitamin D Promote Trim Waistline Previously, studies have suggested a role for calcium a n d v i t a m i n D supplementation to promote

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Commenting that: "The effect of calcium and vitamin D on [visceral adipose tissue] remained highly significant when the results of the two trials were combined,” the study authors conclude that: “The findings suggest that calcium and/or vitamin D supplementation contributes to a beneficial reduction of [visceral adipose tissue].”

“I had spent thousands of dollars getting legal advice to address my staffing issues not to mention the stress. Then someone told me about APAN and I spoke to an expert there and immediately realised that I could have access to top information and expert advice so quickly and easily and at a very reasonable rate of just joining as a member.

Now when I have a query or a question, I just flick an email to APAN and within the hour I receive expert industry advice or legal advice from their solicitors it's amazing. As a professional I know my information needs to be accurate and credible. Through APAN I have access to not only the best but I also get my needs met fast! Joining was the best decision I ever made. Linda Bentley, NSW

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For both beverage types, the total daily dose of calcium was 1050 mg,

and 100 IU vitamin D, per serving. Visceral adipose tissue in the subjects that consumed the regular beverage decreased by an average of 12.7 cm2, as compared with a 1.3 cm2 reduction in the respective control group. As well, the light orange juice resulted in a 13.1 cm2 decrease in visceral adipose tissue, as compared to 6.4 cm2 in that respective control group.

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APAN

“My association with APAN is one that I greatly value. It is exciting to be part of a great organization and a large professional network that can offer me expert support and credible advice. APAN has brought a new level of service that we have not experienced before and they have shown great

It's not what we say about ourselves – it's what others say about us that matters! ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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“I was going through a major business crisis and it was recommended to me to phone APAN to join and access their mentoring and consulting services. Within half an hour of speaking with Tina Viney I was given immediate expert advice and gained clarity on how to address the issue at hand. Tina presented me with some incredible advice and options that allowed me to solve my issue straight away. To think we can access on industry leader of her calibre for a small yearly fee is amazing. For her wealth of knowledge and expertise I expected to be paying my yearly fee as an hourly rate. I am sold on the value of my membership with APAN.” Jenny Good, ACT

integrity within the industry. Their commitment and passion for the good of the industry is inspirational. Whenever I have reached out to them they have always been very positive and resourceful. I have also found them very generous in giving above my expectations and helping me achieve my goals. Nella Faraone, Western Australia

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With a strong motto of members first APAN delivers what it promises. They are committed to your progress. ㈵

Join the APAN Community of Practices. Invest in membership and reap the rewards. Phone 07 5593 0360.

APJ 113

New PRODUCT LAUNCH

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Offering you greater protection when you travel A

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DELAYED LUGGAGE ALLOWANCE

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(a) Six hours

$0

(b) More than 24 hours

$500

(c) More than 72 hours

$1,000

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TRAVEL DELAY ACCOMMODATION $500 FLIGHT DELAY (a) 4 hours

$100

(b) Over 12 hours

$200

AFS Licenece 240954

ace insurance Flight cancellations, travel delays, misplaced baggage, all these are becoming more and more a frequent occurrence for which there is often inadequate protection. However, this is all about to change.

APAN is excited to announce in conjunction with The Sparrow Group/Insurance House Group and Ace Insurance a unique and highly competitive TRAVEL INSURANCE cover for APAN members, industry professionals and their friends and family.

HERE IS WHAT THIS COVER OFFERS YOU: ! For delays of more than 4 hours at the airport The Flight Delay benefits provide you with $100 for meal requirements and other necessities. If the delay persists for 12 hours you are entitled to another $200 to help alleviate the inconvenience.

! For delays at the airport for 8 hours with no alternative flight over night

This unique and innovative Travel Insurance product provides you with not only the standard cover of medical and luggage benefits but much more it now includes cover for travel DELAY RISKS.

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This new product offers you the ultimate travel protection through a SPECIAL comprehensive insurance that covers you when you need it, with the additional protection against the most frustrating of travel experiences being delayed at the airport.

The Travel Delay benefits allow you to book accommodation for up to $500.

! You've arrived but your bags have not The Baggage Delay benefit enables you to buy replacement necessities, first at 24 hours and then at 72 hours. ㄰

APAN Travel Insurance has been developed to provide you with comprehensive cover against travel delays, luggage loss, flights and medical emergencies.

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For a small premium you now can travel with peace of mind. For further information visit www.apanetwork.com – In just five minutes you can complete your cover on-line.

AU GAW - Joint APAN Travel Insurance is issued and underwritten by ACE Insurance Limited ABN 23 001 642 020, AFSL No. 239687 (ACE), and promoted by Insurance House and Sparrow Insurance ACE and Insurance House only provide general advice, and do not consider your objectives, financial situation or needs. To decide if this product is right for you, read the ACE One Trip Travel Insurance Combined Financial Services Guide, Policy Wording and Product Disclosure Statement (PDS) and ACE Annual Travel Insurance Combined Financial Services Guide, Policy Wording and Product Disclosure Statement (PDS). Please also see the ACE Privacy Policy. Terms, conditions and exclusions apply.

APAN – Continuing to provide value-added products and services.

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AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

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The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Winter Issue Volume 13. 2012

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Eradicate acne and enlarge pores with

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2012

Winter Issue Volume 13.

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by ㄰ 㤵 㜵

The process begins now with the new SKEYNDOR super-performers

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