APJ Vol 18 2013

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Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

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AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal

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The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Spring Issue Volume 18. 2013

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Created By Nature Perfected By Science

YOUTHFUL RESULTS AT ANY AGE

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2013

Spring Issue Volume 18.

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Quality Assured through ISO 9001-2008 Certification

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International Quality Standard

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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS

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8-9 18-21 50-56

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CEO’s Heart-2-Heart Report Business News Update on Industry Changes and the power of Strategic Intent in helping you be the winner 76-77 Skin Inspiration – A successful fusion of Aesthetics and Cosmetic Medicine 89-93 Product Innovations 108-111 Aesthetic Industry Bulletin 114-117 Scientific News

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REGULATIONS, EDUCATION AND TRAINING 26-27 62-64 70-72

ATO Launches new program aimed at the Beauty Industry The Research findings on The role of the Skin’s pH The Science behind the use of Plant Stem Cells in Cosmetic Formulations 94-95 The Constantly changing Skin and the Value of Assessment and Review 100-102 Treatment Strategies for the Diabetic Client 118-119 Individual Flexible Arrangements –What they can offer your business

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 32-35 36-38 40-44 58-60 80-81 84-97 98-99

Nutrigenomics or Epigenetics –The must-know buzzwords of 21st Century Healthcare An Interview with the King of Hormones – Dr Thierry Hertoghe, MD The Clinical Application of LED Light for Healing and Skin Rejuvenation The Tenacity of Bacteria New findings on Vitamin D and its role in Health and Immunity The Gentle Current and its ability to achieve Skin Rejuvenation and Improved Facial Contour Bay Laurel and its role in immune support in Aesthetics

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 22 66-69

Ask the Expert The New Face of Public Relations and how it can Transform a Brand 78-79 How to navigate through the traps and pitfalls of the Start-up Business 112-113 The best-kept Secret to improving your Sales Figures and Growing your Business

SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES

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23 24-25

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Gold Coast

Australian Aesthetics Conference – GOLD COAST Building Expertise and Reputation –Australian Aesthetic Conference Speakers

74-75 9th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference 104-106 APAN's Adelaide Australian Aesthetic Conference – A great success

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Revitalise your skin with the essence of the vine

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Celebrate your senses, with the essence of d’vine’s intoxicating vine therapy and aromatherapy. Delicious fusions of wine extracts, mango, passion fruit, cinnamon oil and holly oil. Professional and retail solutions for ageing, pigmentation, acne and d’vine skin maintenance. d’vine is effective, it is beautiful, luxurious and brings excitement back into skin and body treatments!

INTERNET PROTECTED | CHIRAL | PARABEN FREE | 100% MARK-UP | RRP BELOW $95 For further information, contact the official Australian distributor of d’vine® skin care Dynamic Skin Solutions P 02 9525 8368 E info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au W www.dynamicskinsolutions.com.au

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EDITOR’SNOTE

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August has definitely been the month for learning. The Sydney International Beauty Expo staged several educational programs, APAN's Australian Aesthetics Conference, also in Sydney on the 26th August, and the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-ageing Medicine (A5M) staged their medical and aesthetic conference also at the end of August. Choices were numerous and I trust your excuses were none. While we will be reporting on all of these events in the next issue of APJ you will not be disappointed with this issue as we have some amazing articles and further events we will be promoting.

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On Sunday 27th October APAN will be staging its last conference event for the year on the Gold Coast. We have an amazing program and trust as many of you as possible will attend. We have some excellent new and not so new speakers who will be delivering an exciting and highly informative educational program, so please check it out in this journal and we encourage you to prioritise to attend this event.

On the 16-17th November the 9th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference will be held in Sydney.

This event is always highly resourceful with an excellent conference program for both medical and paramedical practitioners.

As new research is validating the benefits of various currents we are featuring several in-depth articles on technology, in this issue. As hand-held devices start to flood the market its time that we stepped up our knowledge and confidently communicated to our clients why our devices can deliver more serious results and how they are able to achieve this, but to communicate convincingly will require that you possibly need to update your knowledge on the physics that govern the technologies that you use. That is why we plan to run several articles over the course of the next 12 months on the science behind various technologies.

We have had the honour to also feature some incredible experts. Dr Hertoghe, world hormone expert gives us some insight into metabolic syndrome. Professor Holick, world expert on Vitamin D reveals new scientific information on this amazing nutrient. The article on Plant Stem Cells by Michael Pugliese is a much-read as he brings some clarity as to how plant stem cells work in the skin, as this is quite a disputed area. Dr Christine Houghton clarifies the difference between nutrigenomics and epigenetics – terms that hopefully will soon be very familiar to all of us as these discoveries start to enter the field of cosmetic formulations. Terry Everitt presents some great information of the skin’s pH that identifies new revelations and Matoyla Kollaras talks about how to treat the diabetic skin as well as reviews the amazing life of Christina Zehavi, the formulator of Christina Cosmeceuticals. If you want to learn about the very latest consumer trends check out my article on the update of industry changes and the power of strategic intent.

Follow APAN on

Tina Viney, Editor Info@apanetwork.com

http://twitter.com/#!/apanetwork CTITIO NE PRA @apanetwork S

APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

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Enjoy the process of learning and allow it to stimulate you with new energy and propel you to pursue your own dreams with confidence and make them a reality.

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Editor Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

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Welcome to APJ

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Typesetting & Graphics

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Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

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John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-981 ㈵

Print Post Approved [100000257]

Circulation 6500

FRONT COVER

Mila d’Opiz Distributed by Boutique Monique Phone: 1300 464 523 Email: info@miladopizaustralia.com.au Web: www.miladopizaustralia.com.au See pages 12-14 for details The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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CEO’s Heart-2-Heart REPORT

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Dear colleagues and friends

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I recently heard a statement that truly resonated in my heart – it said that in the absence of clearly defined goals we become strangely loyal to performing daily acts of trivia. Indeed, when our work becomes routine what we need is inspiration and new knowledge, or life will become boring as our hearts sink into a state of just going through the motions. Boredom is a sign of either aimlessness or that familiarity has taken the thrill out of discovering the unexpected. It is a sign that we need to be challenged afresh with new ideas, knowledge and information.

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I truly believe that while the past few years have been difficult and many are suffering from “battle fatigue” we are finally starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel. Globally there have been some amazing innovative new advances in cosmetic formulations and in device technologies that have the potential to truly place the aesthetic industry in a much AD better position worldwide. We now have the tools to be able to contribute significantly to the E VISORY N anti-ageing market. Meanwhile, consumer demand for looking younger is gaining momentum each year, with figures increasing annually as more individuals are becoming comfortable to pursue avenues that offer them a more youthful end result.

A good archer is known not by his arrows but by his aim.

To meet this challenge educational pathways in Australia are on the increase. Advanced Diplomas, Vocational Graduate Certificates in various post-graduate subjects and degree qualifications are on the rise. Dermal therapies and advanced aesthetics units are delivering training that allows the industry to update their skills and knowledge to meet the new level of knowledge that is needed to implement and deliver advanced anti-ageing results. I believe that if we look back in 10 year's time our industry will be vastly different – we will be able to achieve substantially better results than what we are achieving now.

Aesthetics itself is undergoing its own transformation.

WHAT HAS APAN ACHIEVED?

Thomas Fuller

When APAN first launched APJ in June 2009, looking back just four years on our content was remarkably different to the articles we are currently featuring. We have grown from 100 to 124 pages and our content is becoming more in-depth and technical. This is because our objective has always been to challenge the industry to grow through innovative new ideas, knowledge and information. The industry really didn't need another publication or another organisation for that matter that would follow the status quo of what was already out there – that has never been our intention. We wanted to introduce to the industry an organisation that offered a point of difference – one that stood true to its word to deliver what its mission statement stated and what it promised – to provide the industry with tangible support and initiatives that would deliver true solutions to their problems and true value for their membership investment.

We also wanted to become a bridge between aesthetics and cosmetic and anti-ageing medicine. We are the first organisation to establish alliances with various medical societies and attend as many conferences as possible on a regular basis, establishing valuable collaborative relationships between medical societies and our industry to enhance communication and mutual respect for the benefit of both parties.

Our alliances with various medial societies have also allowed us to bring across to you some information through our journal that you may not have been familiar with. We wanted to make a difference and I believe we have achieved that and we are continuing to grow in credibility and influence as the industry, the government as well as medical societies recognise our commitment and hard work to being a credible voice and working diligently for the progress of those we represent.

As for our journal APJ, our aim was to create a publication that could have a level of authority in its tone and statements and not be afraid to discuss such issues as industry complacency and address deficiencies or to challenge the industry when necessary.

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STRATEGIC ALLIANCE PARTNERS To date we have established 12 Strategic Alliance Partners. I am also happy to report that all discounts that we are able to negotiate are for the members' benefit. APAN does not receive any commissions from finance or insurance companies for referring business to them. What we do is on behalf of the members and for their benefit and those that use this services are saving thousands of dollars a year and are extremely

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APJ 8

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grateful for this. Some businesses are able to save up to half an annual salary just from the saving they can achieve from the APAN Strategic Alliance Partners.

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CONFERENCES AND NETWORKING ㈵

Part of our core values is that we recognise that progress has as its foundation credible knowledge and education. While we are involved and supporting the development of formal qualifications, we have also grown our annual Conference Program to three events in three different States as of this year.

This allows us to support the industry with a quality professional development program with a generic content. These events also allow us to support networking and to interface with the industry so that we can better research and understand their needs.

INVOLVEMENT WITH GOVERNMENT AND REGULATORY BODIES Since May last year APAN was invited to represent the aesthetic industry and is part of the Working Group with the Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency (ARPANSA) together with other stakeholders (most of which are representing the interest of medical groups) for the purpose of looking at the issue of legislation for IPL and Laser for cosmetic purposes.

APAN was also invited to take on the position of lead organisation as part of the National Workforce Development Fund (NWDF). This program offered salons the opportunity to improve their staff's skills and knowledge through formal qualification. We were required to select four RTO to deliver training and to select a qualification. Our choice was the accredited SIB701 Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction – a qualification that will substantial assist salons to improve their productivity. At this point over 210 applications have been submitted to APAN and are awaiting consideration.

I am pleased to report that the first 20 applicants have been approved by the government and they are currently commencing their training with the RTO Beauty Therapy Training Australia on the Gold Coast. I spoke recently with the principal, Angela Smith, who reported to me that all students were progressing well through their training and they were very excited to be gaining this qualification as part of this initiative. She also told me that she was quite concerned that several who were currently offering IPL and Laser treatments we operating with a very poor understanding of frequencies, wavelengths and the necessary safety, as well as the efficacy perameters of this technology so that they could achieve not only safe but also good results. It is quite evident that there is a huge need for this training and we intend to pursue a formal outcome for not only regulations, but also for further government funding for such an initiative. This has been an enormous task that we have undertaken without any government funding for our contribution to this project.

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APAN has also been contacted by several Health Departments for our input into the needs of regulations for activities such as Collagen Induction Therapy, Cosmetic Tattoo, etc.

We were also the first “beauty industry” organisation that was contacted recently by the Australian Tax Office with a view of working with them for the purpose of supporting the industry in their record keeping and meeting with their tax obligations. Over the next 12 to 24 months we will be working closely with the Australia Tax Office to bring to the industry new information and updates that will support, and assist individuals and business with greater efficiency in compliance to their tax obligations (a full report is available on pages 30-31.

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GLOBAL RESEARCH AND INDUSTRIAL RELATIONS, MENTORING AND COACHING In a bid to provide the industry with accurate information both on a global and local scale, APAN directors invest over three hours each day on studying reports and attending webinars and conferences for the purpose of gathering accurate industry intelligence. This is an area that we are highly committed to and consider it as an area of our expertise.

Also as part of membership all members receive vouchers for FREE business coaching. The objective of these consultations is to assist in evaluating areas that require improvement and more modern strategies. We believe these consultations do not conflict with business coaches such as Caroline Nelson with whom we are involved, but rather complement other coaching services. Our coaching also investigates technical issues such as what treatments they are offering and what products they use, as we also look at how best we can assist salons and clinics to increase value services to the consumer by better understanding technologies and how to integrate them for best results. Through our various expertise and knowledge we can make a difference.

With the support and services of Pointon Partners Lawyers we are able to provide expert legal advice to members with regards to Wage Awards. This information is provided in writing, bringing a new level of credibility to this communication process between employer and employee. This has been a highly successful service and has assisted in relieving a great deal of pain from many business owners.

RESOURCE DOCUMENTS Currently we have developed over 40 resource documents to assist members with business and compliance issues so that they can receive the right support in streamlining their standard business procedures.

This report only briefly outlines what we have achieved in just four years and by no means represents all our initiatives, but suffice to say that we work diligently and hard to support the progress of our industry and, specifically, to service our growing number of members.

If you are not already a member, I trust you will join us, after all, whatever we develop is for your benefit. You can download an application at www.apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360 and ask to speak to me – I will be delighted to help in any way I can.

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Committed to your progress Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

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For sceptics

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The product phenomenon that is gaining global reputation and making its mark on the Australian Professional Market In today's challenging and highly competitive market there is something to be said about longevity, and skincare company Mila d'Opiz, with a history of a recently celebrated 75 years, would qualify as a leader. Enjoying a global reputation as a leading professional skincare company, Mila d'Opiz is renowned for its quality and cutting-edge innovations that meet the ever-growing demand of the modern-day consumer.

company and all its departments and operations. The committee assesses the way everything works in detail. They also examine how the exact step-by-step operational procedures are performed on a daily basis. Additionally they thoroughly scrutinise every department in the organisation, while also examining the hygiene and safety standards within the laboratories and the assembly lines to ensure they meet with immaculate conditions.

Combining well-researched naturally-derived marine and plant ingredients enhanced in their delivery to a cellular level through cutting edge biotechnology, Mila d'Opiz's formulations continue to break new ground in pushing the level of results to continuous higher levels.

An ISO 9001 certificate is not a once-and-for-all award, but must be renewed at regular intervals recommended by the certification body, usually once every three years. There are no grades of competence within ISO 9001: either a company is certified (meaning that it is committed to the method and model of quality management described in the standard) or it is not. In this respect, ISO 9001 certification contrasts with measurement-based quality systems.

WHAT IS THE SIGNIFICANCE OF ISO 9001 CERTIFICATION? So why apply for ISO 9001-2008 Certificate and what does it mean to the Mila d'Opiz products?

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You can have the best ingredients, but that does not automatically equate to the best end product. Various factors come into play to achieve a quality end result product that can deliver what it promises.

These factors may include choice and quality of ingredients, the percentage of the active ingredients, the delivery system, the method of formulation, the hygiene standards, temperature and the right processes, are all critical factors. This requires very precise standards and procedures and to achieve this specific systems and skills are needed, and this is where ISO 9001 International Certification can provide the quality assurance of the end product.

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Mila d'Opiz stands for excellence and they have chosen to validate this by being the first Swiss cosmetic company to qualify for international certification for their quality standards. Milad'Opiz's unsurpassed formulations are backed by ISO 9001 International Quality Standards since 1994.

In order to acquire the ISO 9001-2008 Certificate, an external assessment committee of experts thoroughly examines the whole

MILA D’OPIZ IN AUSTRALIA Taking a closer look at what Mila d'Opiz has achieved over the past 12 months is a credit to the team of Mila d'Opiz Australia. Monique and Ian Lambert have submerged their efforts to deliver structured business development and business mentoring programs to assist their loyal business owners during this difficult economic downturn.

The support for Mila d'Opiz salons and clinics has seen numerous advances. Since their launch just over 12 months ago Mila d'Opiz has developed several initiatives, including a new website, social media tools, marketing and running competitions to support salons to gain and retain clientele. They have also offered in-salon promotions that are supported with personalised graphic designs to strengthen the salon's marketing campaigns.

The focus of Mila d'Opiz Australia over the past 12 months is to empower businesses through training and education, equipping therapists with advanced knowledge on biochemistry, microbiology as well as how biotechnology is able to deliver cutting edge formulations in a more precise and targeted way to achieve significant skin improvement. Supported by monthly educational programs and webinars training programs, Mila d'Opiz believe that success lies in

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imparting powerful knowledge that can assist salons achieve better treatment outcomes as well as business strategies to help boost productivity.

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PRODUCTS OF UNSURPASSED QUALITY AND PERFORMANCE ㈵

At the heart of Mila d'Opiz’s success are their amazing innovative formulations that continue to drive results to new levels, delivering incredible skin improvement. Mila d'Opiz uses some of the world's finest and most potent and nutrient-dense natural active ingredients delivered through the latest advances in biotechnology that has gained Mila d'Opiz the reputation as a global leader in the field of anti-ageing cosmetic innovations. With an array of specific formulation that address numerous skin conditions Mila d'Opiz has developed several complete ranges to simplify targeted treatment delivery and achieve advanced results from oily/problematic skin to hormonally challenged ageing skin through the most advanced wrinkle-fighting formulations.

HERE IS JUST A GLIMPSE OF ONE OF MILA D'OPIZ'S LEADING FORMULATIONS. PHYTO-DELUXE GOLD RANGE WITH ASTOUNDING ANTI-AGEING SILVER BULLET INGREDIENTS The Phyto-Deluxe Gold range comprises superior ingredients to address the three causes of skin ageing:

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Hormonal imbalance Dryness due to a decrease in sebaceous glandular activity Lack of skin tone and elasticity due to deterioration of collagen and elastic that leads to lines and wrinkles

Included in the ingredient list are apple stem cells, lipids and essential fatty acids, a variety of specific peptides that target lines and wrinkles and an array of botanicals. One of their leading actives in this formulation is Calcium Red Algae-Complex.

EPIDERMAL CALCIUM GRADIENT AND SKIN BARRIER FUNCTION So why is calcium important for the skin? In recent years extensive research has been conducted on the role of calcium in skin ageing and supporting evidence for its benefit has contributed to calcium being considered as a valuable ingredient in skincare.

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Calcium ions in human skin especially in the epidermal layer, is important to support the biological functions that are necessary for healthy, youthful-looking skin. Calcium is an essential element for living cells as it regulates the growth and differentiation of skin cells as well as the formation of the skin’s defence barrier against premature ageing.

In the body, calcium, in the form of the ion Ca2+, is the most abundant metal ion and fifth most abundant element in the body, both on an atomic and weight basis. Over 90% of calcium resides in bones

and tooth enamel. The rest, described as mobile Ca2+, is found throughout body fluids and takes part in various processes, including muscle contraction, blood clotting, nerve excitability, intracellular communication, membrane transport of molecules, hormonal responses, exocytose, cell fusion adhesion, and growth.

As we age, fat distribution changes and so does bone density and distribution of bone alters. This is why our features alter on our face and our body structure alters. In skin and other tissue and organ systems, calcium is a basic mineral and universal messenger. The unique gradient of calcium in the epidermis regulates homeostasis and regeneration of functional skin barrier. A unique distribution of mineral concentration within the epidermis regulates skin barrier regeneration. Extreme environments induce mineral concentration changes in the epidermis, which results in abnormal barrier formation.

Calcium Red Algae-Complex found in the Mila d'Opiz Phyto-Deluxe Gold was added to prevent and eliminate an abnormal skin barrier, which leads to dry, sensitive, scaly, and damaged skin.

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There are now numerous studies that support the wrinkle relaxing activity of peptides and in particular palmitoyl oligopeptide and palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7 which is found in Matryxl 3000. These peptides have been shown to stimulate the dermis to initiate laminins involved in a healing and repair response that contributes to the process for the development of collagen I, which is the most abundant collagen in our dermis. It also supports the development of Collagen III, produced by young fibroblasts, collagen IV which anchors the proteins in the deepest layers of the skin, elastin and collagen IV fibroblasts, XVII and Nidogen-I proteins which decrease as we age.

As a result Matryxl 3000 has been shown to support the rejuvenation of the dermal structures.

In addition the amino acid L-arginine has been added to this formulation for its benefit in further supporting collagen synthesis.

Complementing the product is a host of botanical oils, essential fatty acids and natural plant extracts carefully selected to provide valuable vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants to optimise results. Also included is the special complex Phyto 4.7 that comprises a well balanced combination of unadulterated phytosterols, such as soy beans, wild yams, cohosh, kudzu vine, pomegranate, angelica sinensis extract and Japanese knotweed. This powerful combination of plant extracts has more than only antioxidant benefits; it is an important component to correct early signs of premature skin-ageing due to hormonal changes. As a result of its advanced formulation, Phyto-Deluxe Gold delivers optimal results with an immediate change in firmness and vitality to the skin.

SPECIALISTS IN TREATMENT SOLUTIONS Mila d'Opiz has a professional solution for every skin type and condition.

Their formulas make available to the professional salon, spa and clinic over 14 specialty ranges for you to choose from that comprehensively supports professional skin therapists to achieve the results their clients are looking for and beyond.

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THE MILA D'OPIZ INNOVATIVE RANGES INCLUDE:

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PHYTO DELUXE GOLD – the ultimate anti-ageing range for mature skins LUXURY CAVIAR – rich in oligopeptides and marine nutrients including, caviar and Argan oil to restore skin hydration, vitality and improve elasticity SKIN REFINE – to visibly brighten and refresh the skin, containing peptides and Swiss Glacier Water to rebalance the skin and give it new clarity, smoothness and tone.

HYDRO BOOST – to optimise hydration levels in all skin types, containing UVA1 filters and UVA to further ensure sun protection SKIN VITAL – enriched with vitamins A, C and E to replenish and nurture stressed skin and offer superior hydration SKIN CLEAR – to refine, neutralise bacteria and re-balance oily and problematic skin MILA NATURAL – a totally botanical range to soothe and nurture delicate and sensitive skin SWISS WELNESS – to detoxify, re-mineralise and hydrate the body MILA CONCENTRATE COLLECTION – a complete range of

intensive serums and concentrates to further fortify skin treatment results both in the salon and for home use WHITE SHADE – a special skin brightening range with the latest clinically proven botanicals and skinwhitening innovations to reduce pigmentation disorders and significantly whiten and brighten the skin MILA CLASSIC – a complete and comprehensive niche skin range to energise and restore skin to its optimum vitality FINAL TOUCH – the skincare makeup a complete range of BB products to hydrate, protect, calm, soothe, provide anti-oxidant protection as well as deliver e xceptional foundation colours ! SUNCARE – a complete range of total spectrum sun protection from UVA/UVB rays as well as pre-tanning and after tanning lotions for ultimate skin protection ! MEN’S TREATMENT – because men need their own products designed specifically for their unique needs.

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Additionally, Mila d'Opiz offers specialty innovative products such as their amazingly effective and extremely popular White Truffle Mask to immediately plump and restore skin hydration for the most compromised skin conditions.

FORGING AHEAD Since the re-launch of Mila d'Opiz in Australia salons and clinics have enthusiastically embraced the brand, recognising and enjoying its superior results, affordability and its competitive advantage as a product of choice and this is also due to its quality assured global reputation.

To find out how Mila d'Opiz can help you achieve both treatment and business success please phone 1300 464 523 Email: info@miladopizaustralia.com.au For more information on Mila d'Opiz empowerment training days

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THE SOLE PRACTITIONER – The challenges in sustaining & growing a business

By Lisa Chelsom

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Currently we are experiencing a mass exit of many beauty businesses as trying to sustain and grow a business now requires new business skills and the constant need for up-skilling and professional development to remain competitive. Trying to cope with the many changes has left many therapists feeling disillusioned, often coming to the conclusion that their business has become a burden to them as hope for the future diminishes. Experiencing such pressures many are leaving the industry altogether, while others are downsizing to become a sole practitioner.

are targeting to achieve on a weekly basis.

3. Consider appropriate packages. While in a larger salon set packages may be designed, in a smaller business environment the need to design specific packages for your individual client may be more practicable.

4. Marketing and advertising strategies will need to be cost-effective and designed to promote your competitive advantage, so real thought needs to be considered in how you word your advertising and what strategies and medium you will select to communicate to your new target market.

The issue of staffing is also becoming more complex as Fair Work requirement can sometimes be difficult to understand and navigate.

Even with help to identify the correct rate of pay is only the beginning, as generating the revenue to pay staff is also an ongoing challenge. As staff come and go, finding the right replacement with the correct qualifications, skills and experience is sometimes an almost impossible task.

The most important consideration is that while currently being a sole trader or home-based business may suit you, it’s prudent to consider a long-term plan. What happens when you wish to take a well-deserved holiday, can you engage someone to take care of your clients? If the economy picks up expanding may become a viable option, do you know how to best prepare for that? As a sole practitioner your business should be a viable asset that you could later sell. Do you have the right infrastructure for this?

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THERE ARE TWO POINTS TO CONSIDER HERE: A. Downsizing is not just about cutting back – it's all about changing the dynamics.

This model still has its special needs that are different to running a business that you manage and motivate staff to achieve your goals.

Here are some of the changes you may be experiencing: 1. With downsizing you will also lose the objective perspective from the feedback that you would have gained from staff and colleagues from which you were able to gain valuable insight for future planning.

2. Moving from managing your business and working on the business to working again in the business is a sift that will restrict your managerial focus and possibly limit you from being able to see the business perspective as clearly.

3. Your operational procedures, policies and system will have to be amended and may need to be rewritten to the needs of a smaller enterprise.

4. As a sole practitioner or home-based business you may feel lonely and find it more difficult to make quality decision in a disciplined and consistent manner.

However, as a business, regardless of your size, you still need to have the right systems so that you can operate profitably. You still need a vision and a plan as to which direction you want the business to go.

HELP IS AVAILABLE Skin Naturelle is a specialist franchise service that offers a full franchise option for your business success package from day one.

Also, our Beauty-in-a-Box coaching programs are designed especially for sole practitioner or home-based business that needs one-on-one business support, tools and up-skilling today’s standards.

They will remove risks and uncertainties and help you achieve a successful and profitable business from the start. Phone Lisa Chelsom at Skin Naturelle on 07 3824 6406 today, to discuss your needs.

One of the principle considerations of a sole practitioner or a home based business is the understanding that what does not grow will dwindle. Economies move and change and while things are a little difficult right now it could be a different story in 12 or 24 months’ time. Every business model needs a plan that will support consistent and steady growth to ensure a positive future. Even a home-based business can still aspire to engaging staff support at some stage of the growth cycle of the business, and this is quite reasonable and feasible if it is planned correctly. ㄰

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B. Downsizing is not about down-scaling your services – In fact, 㤵 㜵

successful sole practitioners usually offer the same level of service that larger salons do, and while on a smaller scale they are of the same quality standard. Here are some of the key considerations you

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1. Make sure your skills are up to date with all the services you are providing.

2. As you will not possibly be accessing foot traffic consider the profitability and financial return per treatment and determine what services you will need to provide to ensure the necessary income you

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What really is IPL? So what is SPL? What really is IPL? Are all IPL devices using the same technology?

And why is France Medical advertising that they offer you the best deal on the market and claim that their range of professional IPL devices is revolutionising the IPL market for beauty salons and skin clinics in Australia and New Zealand? Let’s have a close look.

1- IPL technology in general An Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), emits a “polychromatic light, i.e. a multitude of wavelengths (Similar to the rainbow spectrum analogy in the illustration below). The wavelength varies from 580nm to 1200nm for hair removal (with E>O75). IPL technology targets the melanin of the hair, responsible for the hair colour.

This pigment will vary from a person to another. Each type of hair requires a specific wavelength to be heated up. The heat is transmitted to everything in contact with the hair and especially the nourishing structure of the hair. Once this structure is destroyed (blood vessel cauterised) this particular hair will not grow back.

Advantages • Easy to use.

• Gentle on the skin (not invasive).

• Works on more different hair colours (blond, brown and black).

• Suitable for skin phototypes I (very fair skin) to V (dark skin).

• Cover a larger skin area per shot (7.5cm2 for E>O75).

• Inconvenients • Does not work on red and white hair.

• Not suitable for phototype VI.

Protocole To use the E>O75, clients have to shave before the session. In case of waxing, the client will have to wait 4 weeks before doing a treatment. 6 to 8 sessions every six to eight weeks to obtain optimum results. Then, only 1 or 2 touch ups a year for maintenance will be necessary.

Results There are obvious results after the first treatment. The hair will fall out progressively 7 to 21 days after each session.

3- Different IPL technologies Graph 1 - High energy (in joules per cm2). Very short flash (in milliseconds) - Very hard to adjust the safety settings of the device – 75% of salons still use this 20 years old technology in Australia. Higher risk to burn and be painful. Average results.

Flash intensity in joules per cm2

Graph1: 20 year's old technology. About 75% of salons use this technology (machine mainly made in China) • Works on brown and dark hair • Average results • Suitable for skin phototype I to III • Painful

2- E>075 Technology - SPL vs IPL Indications E>O75 is a unique IPL hair removal device designed for the treatment of blond, brown and dark hair colour on skin phototype I (fair) to V (dark) and tanned skin. It is dedicated to beauty and health professionals only and can be used by trained beauticians who fully understand the use of the IPL technology.

Technology • E>O75 is using the 3rd and latest generation of Intense Pulsed Light technology (also known as SPL for Square Pulsed Light– See graphs below), a unique French technology patented by E-Swin.

• This technology is based on electronically controlled flash spread on a longer time period (called pulse width) at an optimised flash intensity (called fluence). It is more efficient and safer than traditional IPL technologies. E>O75 has a long pulse width (30 to 40 milliseconds), longer than all hair removal competitors.

• E>O75 has patented safety features that keep the flash intensity stable during the whole flash emission. This avoids peaks of energy and reduces the risks of redness, burn and scaring.

• There are no less than 12 safety features in the device to insure its reliability, the E>O75 is registered at the TGA and is certified by a Medical CE. And the manufacturer is also certified ISO 9001 and 13485.

Pulse width in ms 5 to 10 ms

Graph 2 - Flash intensity better controlled, but no stabilisation (pulse interruption due to limited technology). 12 years old technology safer than previous technology. Average results.

Flash intensity in joules per cm2

Graph 2: 12 years old technology.

About 20% of the market.

• Works on brown and dark hair • Suitable for skin phototype I to IV • Moderate pain

Pulse width in ms 3 to 5 ms

Graph 3 - SPL (Square Pulsed Light) stable flash on longer period. This technology will work on blond hair (with less melanin). Can be used on phototypes IV and V as well as tanned skins, ideal for Asian, Indian and Middle Eastern skins.

Flash intensity in joules per cm2

Graph 3 About 5% of the market.

Latest technology.

• Works on blond, brown and dark hair • Suitable for skin phototype I to V

Pulse width in ms

• E>O75’s technology has been followed by a three-year clinical study in France under the control of independent dermatologists.

30 to 38 ms

More information visit www.programeo.com.au or call (07) 3151 1543

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BUSINESS NEWS

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

PHONE PHOBIA: THE LATEST GEN-Y DISEASE Every generation has its favourites when it comes to communication, but a recent survey revealed that Gen-Ys tend to avoid picking up a phone to make a call because they are far more comfortable with other communication devices. Surely the ability to make a phone call is a key requirement of any job apparently not if you're a twentysomething.

While certain generations think of the phone as a source of friendly interaction, many Gen-Ys see an old fashioned phone call as intrusive.

“You're essentially charging into someone's home or office and demanding they talk to you right now. Text is much cleaner. It's all there in black and white and people can read it at their leisure,” they argue.

It's also worth exploring the perspective of a Gen Xer, who straddles the pre-digital and digital eras. Amber Daines, director of PR and media training agency Bespoke Communications, says since she began working in the media sector more than 16 years ago the communication landscape has changed. She revealed her Gen Y staff won't pick up the phone to make calls. So what is happening? Are they lazy? Timid? Or have things changed so much that the phone is now obsolete?

The common consensus is that the choice of communication method depends on the complexity of the information needed to be sent.

For example, if you sent a text message this can be effective only if it is very short. The longer the text message, the more likely the receiver will ignore it. But texts are great for quick appointment reminders. The bottom line is the Y-Gens feel more at home with electronic communication. They find this more friendly, less confronting and intrusive. Let's face it, you don't need to worry about being rejected if you send a quick text or email.

However, there are times when a phone call is still the most appropriate and even preferable way to get your message across, versus texting or emailing. Especially when dealing with baby boomers, they love the courtesy of a reminder call before an appointment or even for someone to check up that their treatment appointment went well and they were happy with the results.

As with everything, when a system is overused it loses its novelty. A recent study revealed that often less than 10% of emails are opened when sending out marketing information. This is because this method of communication is now exploited and it has lost its novelty.

You may be surprised to learn that “snail mail” invitations for clients to attend an event are gaining popularity again. It has now become the best way to stand out over an e-invite and hope it gets read.

Indeed, although it can appear otherwise, ultimately it's often quicker and simpler to ring someone up. In the end it's all about surveying what your clients prefer and then use the mechanism that is the most popular. However, investigating is a worthwhile exercise because as with everything, times are changing.

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An Australian Bureau of Statistics publication, Counts of Australian Businesses, including Entries and Exits, revealed this week that the number of actively trading businesses increased by 8868 (0.4 per cent) between 2010-11 and 2011-12.

It marks the third consecutive year of rises in the count of Australian businesses. And the vast majority (96 per cent) of Australian businesses in June 2012 were small businesses.

The publication also revealed that the entry rate (13.5 per cent) of businesses was higher than the exit rate (13.1 per cent), resulting in an increase in the overall number of businesses.

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Karen Connaughton, ABS director of national tax data and business demography, said Australian Business Counts show there were 2,141,280 actively trading businesses in Australia at June 2012.

“Growth was due to an increase in new business registrations, as well as a decline in the exit rate of businesses,” she said.

Cote also pointed out that 95.9 per cent of Australian businesses had fewer than 20 employees in 2011-12 and in terms of turnover, 93.9 per cent turned over less than $2 million. Small businesses often look to larger operators for a sign of things to come, and a new report reveals optimism among many.

The largest number of Australian businesses were in the construction industry (16.2 per cent), followed by professional, scientific and technical services (11.7 per cent) and rental, hiring and real estate services (10.5 per cent).

One of the key areas that is hindering business growth has been slow payment of invoices. Many are waiting the average 60 days to have invoices paid, up three days on the previous quarter. Waiting on payments weighs heavily on business confidence, Cote said.

“Of the States, the ACT, Victoria, Northern Territory and NSW all recorded an increase in business numbers. Queensland, Tasmania and Western Australia all recorded a decrease in business numbers, while in South Australia they remained relatively steady,” Ms Connaughton said.

“Many businesses are delaying decisions to invest in their business or hire new staff, and that's why we expect a rise in the jobless rate, unless we can breathe more life into the small business sector.

Business survival rates were also recorded by the ABS. Of the 2,071,360 small businesses operating in June 2008, 84.6 per cent were still around in June 2009, 75.1 per cent in June 2010, 67.9 per cent in June 2011 and 61.8 per cent in June 2012.

ABS spokesman Warren Cote said business counts have increased for three consecutive years. “The number of Australian businesses with fewer than 20 employees that grew in 2011-12 in terms of employment size range increased by around 3.3 per cent, compared with 2010-11.

“Also, the number of Australian businesses with fewer than 20 employees that shrank [moved down the employment size range] in 2012 decreased by approximately 2.1 per cent compared with 2011.”

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“Another cut in interest rates from the Reserve Bank would help boost business and consumer sentiment and reduce credit costs for business, which in turn may help to encourage small business sentiment.”

In the beauty industry APAN's statistics indicate a slight increase in business growth and profitability since 2011. The survey has revealed the key factors for survival in the beauty industry has been better economic management, but more importantly, the introduction of new innovative treatments, products and services.

Statistics also confirmed that evolving and constantly improving salons have continued to experience steady growth, even in this economic climate.

This has fuelled APAN's commitment to their conference and educational program.

Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/small-business/managing/doors-opento-confident-era-20130524-2k61j.html#ixzz2UY3KpGPA

"The Government will also address other areas of concern, including marketing funds and disclosure and will seek to provide certainty by accepting in principle that once implemented, another review of the sector will not occur for five more years.”

The Government appointed Alan Wein to review the Code in January to make recommendations to ensure the franchising sector was operating in the best interests of its participants as a whole.

It was important to clarify the obligations franchisors and franchisees had under the Franchising Code of Conduct and to ensure the courts and the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission had the appropriate powers to deal with rogue operators who abused their power in a franchising relationship.

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The Federal Government plans on improving Australia's franchising sector in response to the 2013 Independent Review of the Franchising Code of Conduct.

Releasing the Government's response, the Minister for Small Business, Gary Gray said the Code would deliver better outcomes and provide certainty for franchisers and franchisees.

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"The Government will move to introduce into the Code an obligation to act in good faith, and to include civil pecuniary penalties for breaches of the Code," he said.

Franchise Council of Australia general manager Kym De Britt said on a whole the Federal Government was very supportive of the whole process.

“It was an extremely consultative process and it included a lot of stakeholders,” he said.

“One of the points made clear in the forward-looking paper was that half of the recommendations will be ongoing consultation, which is what they have indicated to us in order to assess the full impact of any implantation. The Government will move to implement its response through the Parliament as soon as practically possible.

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“Overall the FCA was happy with the process. We believe Alan Wein was very experienced and did a very thorough review. Not only did the Government and a number of its departments get involved, but the recommendations are a clear indication they listened to stakeholders and we were pretty satisfied with the recommendations,” De Britt said.

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BUSINESS OWNER SPEAKS OUT AFTER BEING TARGETED BY FAIR WORK OMBUDSMAN FOR ALLEGED UNDERPAYMENTS At the recent APAN conference in Adelaide Michael Bishop lawyer and senior partner of Pointon Partner Lawyers presented a lecture on Contracts versus Wages and several case studies where someone was paid as a contractor but in later years and as a result of a dispute the Fair Work Ombudsman determined that the contractor in fact qualified as an employee and the courts requested that the departing employee be awarded thousands of dollar in compensation. Ensuring correct status of employment and rate of pay is essential to avoid complications down the track. APAN works closely with the support of Pointon Partners to ensure businesses are paying their staff the correct pay as mistakes can prove very costly, as this article demonstrates.

The Fair Work Ombudsman has launched legal action against a regional Queensland security business over an alleged $50,000 underpayment, but the employer says the security officer was “overpaid”.

Rodney Harris, the owner-manager of Bundaberg-based security business RPO Security, is facing court alongside his private business Bundaberg Security, for allegedly underpaying a casual employee a total of $51,733 between 2007 and 2010. This is the fourth security company to be targeted by FWO this year, as it continues its crackdown on the casualised industry.

The FWO alleges the employee, aged in his 30s, was paid a flat rate of $900 a fortnight for work including security patrols, escorting people to cars and taking cash to a bank safe. This supposedly resulted in underpayment of the employee's minimum hourly rates, casual loadings, night shift allowance and penalty rates for Sundays, public holidays and overtime work.

Representing Harris, solicitor Geoff Ebert of Finemore Walters and Story stated the FWO claims will be “defended strenuously”. “Mr Harris and RPO have filed a defence to the claim saying no money is owed to the employee and, on the basis of the evidence, he was actually overpaid $12,000 under the award rate,” he says. The case

FORMER NEIGHBOURS STAR TO SUE FOR DISCRIMINATION – A LESSON FOR SMALL BUSINESS ON SICK LEAVE ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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was in court yesterday and it was adjourned until November 18, 2013.

The FWO is seeking a court-ordered back-payment and says the significant sum of money involved and the failure to rectify the underpayments led to the Ombudsman pursuing legal action. M+K Lawyers partner Andrew Douglas stated if the Ombudsman is seeking back-payment and not penalties, it generally means the business has been cooperating with the investigation, but failure to rectify the alleged underpayments means legal action was likely.

“The security industry is an industry where there is high casualisation and these industries have a huge risk of underpayment because the nature of the work is transient. When there are transient people working, there are opportunities for people to pay workers in cash,” he says.

Earlier this month Secom Australia was fined $66,000 for underpaying 19 employees $21,548, and the judge said ignorance of an employer's obligation was “no excuse” for underpaying an employee. In May the FWO took action against North State Security in central Victoria, claiming it underpaid four former employees nearly $90,000 between 2006 and 2011.

Douglas says if an employer is unsure of their obligations they should consult the FWO website or contact their local accountant or lawyer.

“Even with this information it's still a complex area to determine what people are going to get paid. Organisations like VECCI have a wage hotline, but people can still get it wrong because it's just so complex.

“The legislation needs to be made simpler,” he says. http://www.smartcompany.com.au

company behind Neighbours, and management for Kym Valentine, but both declined to comment.

The controversy raises issues regarding the level of responsibility employers have for sick employees, but legal experts say employers are within their legal rights to terminate an employee on a fixed-term contract after three months if they can't meet the requirements of their job.

SmartCompany contacted both Fremantle Media, the production

She also claims they breached "the relationship of trust and

“You can almost always avoid penalties if you immediately agree to the back-payment, but if the FWO sees it as a course of deliberate conduct or if you unreasonably declined to back-pay the employee, then they will pursue legal action,” he says. Douglas says in the past few years there have been a number of security companies caught by the FWO.

Va l e n t i n e ' s management referred to a story in Fairfax which states Valentine has accused Fremantle Media Australia, its legal director, Steven Rosser, and former Neighbours producers Susan Bower and Neil Kingston of failing to provide "a working environment that was safe".

Former Neighbours actress Kym Valentine is suing the producers of the show for alleged "pain, hurt, suffering and humiliation", as a result of sex and disability discrimination and the case has plenty to teach SMEs.

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confidence". Near the end of her time at Neighbours Valentine reportedly suffered a variety of health problems tracing back to 2008 when she contracted pneumonia. As a result of the pneumonia, Valentine suffered a collapsed lung.

The show's producer, Bower, then insisted she take a one-month break from the show and Michala Banas was cast in her absence.

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In March 2011, Valentine took indefinite leave to treat what was believed to be depression.

Throughout this time Bower had publicly supported Valentine, telling the Herald Sun in April 2011 the network wished her "all the best with her recovery" and said they'd "continue to provide support where appropriate".

Valentine's contract had expired at the end of 2011 and it was not renewed. Now, the report claims Valentine is seeking to be rehired in the role. Bower tells Fairfax he was restricted in his actions. "Kymmy was just too ill to return to do the workload required to finish the episode in time for our contracted delivery date."

M+K Lawyers partner Andrew Douglas stated employers have a responsibility to look after the health of their employees. "If Kym Valentine, being a normal employee, reported to work and was not fit and healthy enough to perform her role, the employer could refuse to accept that offer to work," he says.

Douglas says it's "critical" for employers to diligently ensure all workers are fit to attend work each day, or else they should be sent home at risk of a law suit. If work was found to be a substantial cause of injury or stress to the employee, for example if the worker turned up to work depressed and their condition got worse, then this would be grounds for a possible compensable injury claim. If you're not fit enough to work, you can't attend. Legally, this is what an employer must enforce, he says.

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In Valentine’s position, where her contract was not ongoing, as it had an expiration date, legally she could have been terminated after three months of not being able to adequately perform her role.

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If there is no contract which requires the continuity of work, then after three months an employer can terminate the employment if they've appropriately tried to support the employee and they can't do the inherent requirements.

"There are some complications which sit around this in antidiscrimination law, but if the employer has offered all reasonable adjustments and there is no continued requirement of work, then their contract can be ceased," he says.

Douglas says the situation is different if the employee is on an ongoing contract, and the laws vary State-by-State. http://www.smartcompany.com.au

those in metropolitan areas. Overall, 40% of the women surveyed also said they worked both Saturdays and Sundays, while 36% worked seven days a week.

“It's always hard when you are a small business owner trying to bring in an income as well as running the business, but because the majority of women are in service-based industries they can't obtain grants, contracts from industry and government, and furthermore, women by nature tend to give out a lot more than they should, meaning they always care about others before themselves,” an AWCCI spokesman revealed.

Another survey revealed that many women start a business without an exit plan and without enough funds. This is problematic for the community and the economy, both in the short and long term, because money changes everything.

WOMEN BUSINESS OWNERS NOT PAYING THEMSELVES A WAGE, RESEARCH REVEALS Research by the Australian Women Chamber of Commerce and Industry has revealed the majority of women small business owners do not pay themselves a wage. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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The survey results released yesterday from an AWCCI study of 3000 female respondents showed 50% of the businesses required more capital to grow.

It also found a large majority of women start a business with under $5000, with just under 70% using personal savings, and 51% of women did not pay themselves a wage.

Women in rural areas were less likely to pay themselves a wage than

Research from AWCCI shows the number of females running their own business has increased by 8.9% in the past five years, while the number of males running a business has dropped by 3.7% in the same period.

Only a very small percentage (37%) of respondents believed they were paying themselves a market wage, when they actually paying themselves a wage at all.

"It's harming everybody,” the researchers said. “If you look at the big picture, women have the power of the purse and between 80-90% of consumer decisions are being made by women. If we continue to see this trend of women leaving the corporate environment and continuing to not pay themselves a wage, they won't be able to spend.”

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It was also revealed that women who are not paying themselves a wage are also not receiving super, and this will have implications upon their ability to retire comfortably.

The survey also found that women are not valuing their work as much as they should.

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Solutions, insights and advice for problems that arise at work

I AM ALWAYS WORKING ON MOTIVATING MY STAFF AND TAKING CARE OF OTHERS, BUT HOW CAN I MOTIVATE MYSELF AND HOW CAN I MEASURE HOW I AM DOING AS A LEADER. CAN YOU GIVE ME ANY RECOMMENDATIONS? I hear you loud and clear. As they say, it can be lonely at the top!

However, psychologist Eva Ash has some great advice that the best way to motivate yourself is through a self-appraisal of the past six months versus the next six months.

There is a lot of discussion in psychology about extrinsic and intrinsic motivators, and most of us tend to look outside of ourselves for validation of what we do as we would with our employees – we reward them. So as managers and people striving to do our best, how do we manage to shift our focus away from those sometimes distracting extrinsic rewards and enhance the effect of the intrinsic ones?

When you are an unknown entity, brand building is your main focus and advertising is essential and will help you attract clients to you for the first time, but it won't help you to keep getting them back. Once you get them in, your aim should be to offer them the kind of service they will value and want to come back to. Trust that's earnt through quality results and exceptional service, followed by word-of-mouth, is what will take your business to the next level, so planning what your point of difference will be is worth every minute.

This is something that I can speak on from experience. Initially it takes hard work, but once you build a reputation, referrals with be one of the key ways that your business will grow.

DO A SIX-MONTH SELF-APPRAISAL Like most things – the first step is to increase awareness. The aim is to increase your self-awareness of accomplishments and progress over six months, which can really be lost in a world of to-dos (instead of havedones). The constant drive towards improving and fixing often causes us to lose sight of what we have actually managed to achieve. This is where the six-month self-appraisal can work wonders.

First, draw up these five lists. Ask yourself and document down: 1.

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What did I plan to achieve in the past six months?

What did I actually achieve in the past six months?

What did I learn in the past six months?

What do I want to achieve in the next six months?

What rewards do I give myself for what I have achieved now and also at the end of the next six months?

We usually forget a very important step of planning: celebration. Far too often people use hard work as a reward. Although achieving job satisfaction and having a strong work ethic are great attributes, it's so important to stop occasionally and to pat yourself on the back – away from work. Find something you really enjoy, congratulate yourself and give yourself a treat that you really deserve.

Build habits that give you personal perspective as well as the motivation to create self-directed change in your life. It's a simple process – it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to go through this listing process, but it is powerful in that it gives you a platform to grow and achieve. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Meanwhile here are some brand-building tips that can help you, especially when you have a low budget: 1. BE AUTHENTIC IN DEVELOPING YOUR IDENTIFY – Develop a logo that reflects who you are and what you are offering. Put some thought into this and interact with an experienced designer who can create something you can be proud of and that can instantly identify you from your competition.

2. CREATE MULTIPLE CHANNELS FOR COMMUNICATIONS – Create platforms for potential clients to engage with you. Purchase a database and design e-newsletters that you can send out. With your website you can start with a single landing page until you can afford something more elaborate.

Create a Facebook page, look at gift vouchers that you can network with neighboring businesses, hairdressers, florist, restaurants, coffee shops.

And speak at fundraising events, go to business breakfasts and sponsor a gift or ask to be included as a speaker. Look at the whole issue of community and engage with them in a positive way.

3. BUILD RELATIONSHIPS – When you do get clients gain from their feedback. Check what is important to them and make the necessary adjustment to ensure you meet their needs.

4. PARTNER WITH YOUR SUPPLIER – Seek the help of your product supplier and engage them as much as possible in the process of promotions and client rewards.

5. MAKE SURE YOUR MARKETING ACTIVITIES ARE MEASURABLE – Keep tabs on where your traffic is coming from and utilise that tactic to your full advantage. That will mean that when you gain new clients you always ask them where they have heard about you. There is nothing worse than spending money where there is no return.

I AM STARTING MY OWN BUSINESS AND WANT SOME SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO GAIN NEW CLIENTS AS THAT IS PERHAPS THE MOST DAUNTING ISSUE THAT I AM FACED WITH. DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS?

However, my ultimate advice for success is “never stop learning”. New ideas, motivation and innovation are birthed from seeds of knowledge and information.

Obviously, advertising is a key and necessary ingredient in all businesses marketing strategies, however, it shouldn't be relied upon as the main reason why clients chose to come to you, because clients would be drawn to return to you because of your reputation and not because of your mass marketing, and keeping clients is where business growth will happen for you.

If you require any business advice please phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com to discuss your needs with an expert. NOTE: These services are available for free ONLY TO APAN FINANCIAL MEMBERS. Non-members can choose to either join or receive this service at a consultancy fee.

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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES

Building Expertise and Reputation

GOLD COASTSunday 27 October. 8am – 5pm th

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RACV Royal Pines Resort I Ross Street I Benowa Gold Coast QLD

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Gain the competitive advantage and see your profits grow This conference program will introduce new business experts and topics never before presented. It guarantees to give you powerful knowledge and skills to help you reach your peak as a professional and as a successful business owner.

SIX OUTSTANDING SEMINAR PROGRAMS “I have attended many conference events, but the calibre of information presented at APAN's Conferences offered me the best industry insight, serious education and business strategies. Their programs offer the perfect balance of topics to help me set my direction on a more focused course to reach my goals with greater conference. This program was the best value for money.”

Jane Taylor, Qld

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Learn Conceptualise Innovate Network Implement Register today: Members $149 Non-members $169 | Phone 07 55930360 or to register on-line visit www.apanetwork.com To book your accommodation phone Reservations at the Royal Pines Resort 1800 886 880 and quote your APAN Code 2467505.

If you are NRMA or RACV Member additional discounts will apply.

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APAN AUSTRALIAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE

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Building Expertise and Reputation

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GOLD COAST Sunday 27

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October. 8am – 5pm RACV Royal Pines Resort Ross Street Benowa I Gold Coast Qld

CONFERENCE PROGRAM AND SPEAKERS REGISTRATION 8.00AM

Time: 8.30-9.30am Topic: How to develop recognition and reputation and become a magnet for consumers SPEAKER: Tina Viney – APAN CEO

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Each APAN conference has its own theme and focus and our third event for 2013 is no different. The APAN Australian Aesthetic Conference will be held at the Royal Pines Resort, Gold Coast Queensland on Sunday 27th October and will feature the theme Building Expertise and Reputation.

As we approach the end of 2013 we will be entering one of the busiest periods of the year. This conference program promises to deliver great education and business strategies to help you increase your confidence and gain the tools to ensure your reach and exceed your targets in the coming months. Speakers have been carefully selected to ensure you receive a balanced, cross section of topics from technical, professional as well as business educational information.

We guarantee you will gain amazing information and leave energised and motivated to implement new cutting-edge strategies that will help you reach your goals with greater ease.

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While business and sales strategies aim to help you grow your profits and increase your revenue, much of your success will also hinge on what it is you are actually trying to sell to your clients. Global advances in technology and new innovations that are reaching our shores are shaping the aesthetic industry landscape, allowing it now to offer products and services that can deliver significantly better results than previously thought possible through skilled and well-qualified practitioners. Meanwhile, social media and the Internet are educating consumers on the numerous options available to them, so we now have more sophisticated buyers who are more discerning and specific in their expectations. Are you well positioned to meet these expectations and have you identified your niche as a practitioner to secure your position in this multi-billion-dollar industry?

In this lecture Tina Viney will present the latest industry statistics on what consumers are looking for and how they are changing in their expectations. She will also discuss the most in-demand treatments and how our communication language regarding how we present these treatments needs to change if we are to capture and retain those clients that are truly seeking the best.

At this seminar you will learn:

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The latest industry statistics that will influence your future Learn how to communicate in a way that will gain you clients Identify ways to secure your business's future Learn the most effective way to establish a professional network

Networking break 9.30 – 10.00am Time: 10-10.45am Topic: How Does Skincare Change The Inner Workings Of Skin Cells?

Speaker: Terry Everitt – Master Aesthetics Educator The cell wall is an effective barrier yet there are ways through it – it just depends what you are using to get the job done. Ingredients need to be in a particular form to accomplish our goals of intercellular travel. Stem cells and peptides are the current buzz, but is it is all buzz and no action?

In this intriguing seminar, Terry will relate the science behind many of the marketing claims made about products. Do we really get products into the cell or are they working around the cell? Terry is a master educator coming from a scientific viewpoint and if you have had the pleasure of attending one of his lectures, you know how much information he has to impart. From a Bachelor Degree in Health Science (Aesthetics) to a Master's Degree in Education and a whole lot more; Terry takes learning to a higher level each time. We are delighted that he has agreed to speak at the Gold Coast event so you can have the benefit of over 20 years of experience and a totally non-biased viewpoint.

At this seminar you will learn:

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Understanding the transport mechanisms of ingredients through the epidermis Discover how some ingredients manage to cross the cell wall Define and discern words like syndets, combars, cathelicidins, deferins and how they work on and in the skin Know what you need to get the fibroblast cells working for effective dermal health

Morning tea and Networking break 10.45 – 11.15am Time: 11.15-12.00 noon Topic: The Top Secrets Of Highly Successful Salons And Clinics Speaker: Caroline Nelson – Director of Nelson Beauty Business Management If you are serious about growing your bottom line then this seminar will give you all the answers you are looking for. Caroline is a highly successful business coach who understands what it takes to improve profitability, triple sales figures, achieve financial security, and ultimately gain the life you have always

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wanted. She has helped hundreds of clinics, salons and spas that are committed to achieving outstanding success to reach amazing growth even during difficult economic times. In her characteristic, no-nonsense approach, Caroline will step you through the process of how to achieve business growth and increased profitability.

manage with greater confidence in these economic times and, most importantly, how to become more profitable in business.

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At this seminar you will learn:

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At this seminar you will learn:

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The most effective ways of planning and executing better business management How to achieve triple figures through winning strategies in cross-selling and retail conversion What some of the most successful salons are doing to achieve winning results The best ways to get your staff to improve their sales productivity

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At this seminar you will learn: The law simplified How to safeguard your business from unfair dismissal claims When and how to establish clear communication with your staff Understanding your options and obligations

Lunch Break and Networking 1.15-2.15pm Time: 2.15pm-3.00pm Topic: Why Business Success is a Formula and how To use it in your business Speaker: Ian McManus – Managing Director of My Business Manager

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Business is changing dramatically, yet the principles remain the same. Ian MacManus has over 30 years business experience and knows firsthand that building a successful and profitable business is about following a basic formula. A formula that if you are willing to follow will have your business skyrocketing. We are delighted that Ian has accepted to sharing this formula and other key strategies that have allowed him to win in the game of business.

From IT Manager of Pfizer Pharmaceuticals, to multiple business owner, retired at 40, and now building a global business, Ian has experienced both Corporate and the SME world in all its glories. Ian founded the Gold Coast Small Business Network and has 250+ business owners helping each other to be successful. Ian also runs Business Workshops to show people how to build their cashflow,

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Time: 3.30pm-4.15pm Topic: Using Your Team's Personality Traits To Drive Your Business Further Speakers: Jayne Jennings and Valerie McDougall – Directors of the Pink Shoe Power Time Management System

Time: 12.30-1.15pm Topic: Employing Staff And The Law Speaker: Michael Bishop – Director of Pointon Partners Lawyers

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3.00 – 3.30pm Networking break

Networking break 12.00– 12.30pm

Employing staff has many regulatory requirements and obligations under the FairWork Act. Understanding these requirements and implementing the appropriate documentation will safeguard you from the stress and disruptions of future misunderstandings and potential unfair dismissal claims. Pointon Partner Lawyers is considered one of the most credible law firms in Australia and specialise in business law, industrial relations and trademarks. Michael Bishop is a senior lawyer with Pointon Partners Lawyers and has extensive experience with unfair dismissal claims. In this lecture he will demystify the law and offer some valuable recommendations on how a business can ensure they meet with the necessary requirements and achieve peace of mind.

Learn what KPIs are and how to use them in your business, saving you time and money The secrets of marketing in this new business world and how to maximise your invested dollars How to understand your financial reports and what they are telling you about your business How to measure your staff and reward them for improved sales and results achieved

No, it's not about being Miss Congeniality! This session introduces a breakthrough approach to get the best out of you and your team, and consequently your business. Jayne and Val will reveal a unique way for you to tap into your personality traits and habits, allowing you to work smarter, not harder.

Their system is based on international and national research into women business owners and work/life balance. Be prepared to challenge your current thinking about time management and gain greater insight about yourself. You will learn practical strategies to improve your performance, productivity and avoid overwhelm and stress that undermines many business owners. This session takes the often-dry “time management” subject and makes it fun and relevant to you at an individual level.

At this seminar you will learn:

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How to understand your strengths and how to use them to improve your productivity Identify 'time demons' that sabotage your success Practical strategies you can start tomorrow to save time and achieve more Discover how to increase your team's effectiveness and productivity

ABOUT THE ROYAL PINES RESORT The Royal Pines Resort is a magnificent 5-star resort located just 12 minutes drive from the beaches of Surfers Paradise, and five minutes from the Gold Coast/Brisbane freeway. It is well known for its spectacular golf course, which is home to the ANZ Ladies Masters golf tournament.Accommodation at the resort comprises of 330 rooms and suites, which are furnished with luxury decor and offer panoramic views to the gardens, hinterland or Gold Coast CBD. The resort offers a great choice of dining venues, where you can enjoy a wide variety of delicious Japanese and Asian cuisine. It also features Tennis and Health Club along with a newly appointed Day Spa. Previously managed by Crowne Plaza the resort is now managed by the RACV.

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To book your accommodation phone Reservations at the Royal Pines Resort 1800 886 880 and quote your APAN Code 2467505. If you are an NRMA or RACV Member additional discounts will apply. To book for the Conference Phone 07 5593 0360 or visit www.apanetwork.com and complete an application on-line (see page 23 for further details).

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Australian Tax Office launches new program Aimed at the Beauty Industry

By Tina Viney Recently representatives of the Australian Tax Office in Canberra met with APAN to discuss a new program developed exclusively to assist businesses and individuals in the Hair and Beauty Industry to meet their tax obligations. During the meeting statistics were presented by the Tax Office that indicated their concerns with a growing number of businesses in relations to their taxation obligations. As a result the beauty industry is considered as one of their targeted industries.

In 2013-2014 the Australian Tax Office has started a program where they will be working with industry bodies to gain their assistance in helping educate the industry in ways to ensure they meet with their tax obligations.

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From the ATO risk profiling of a range of industries the hair and beauty industry ranked among the top 10 industries of having a high risk of cash-economy participation and therefore businesses in the industry are at a higher risk of a tax audit review. The industry was also identified as having high rates of non-lodgement behaviour and tax-evasion reports received from the community in regard to omitted cash income.

WHAT'S INVOLVED WITH THE PROGRAM ㈵

A program will be conducted over two to three years that will be comprised of two parts: 1. Help and education

2. Compliance The ATO will start with a range of initiatives that will provide help and assistance to get businesses that have not lodged a tax return to do so.

During this phase they will work closely with industry bodies such as APAN, tax practitioners and businesses to understand how the industry works and how they can be supported through a level playing field. They will provide tailored information and tools to help businesses self-assess and report their tax and superannuation obligations and with small businesses that are struggling to meet their obligations, taking into account their specific circumstances.

During the first year some businesses may be selected for review as part of the ATO normal risk modelling. In the second and subsequent years their “compliance” activities will focus on those who have been given the opportunity to change their behaviour. Administrative penalties and prosecutions may result from these reviews.

WHEN WILL THE PROGRAM START? As of August 2013 a first letter will be sent out to members of the hair and beauty industry letting them know of a new website created for them to help make it easier to do their taxes.

The key areas of support will be to assist in:

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Stressing the importance of proper record keeping to make it easier to determine tax obligations

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To assist the industry this new dedicated website will be developed that will provide information and advice to assist businesses with compliance issues. The website, which will be developed exclusively for the hair and beauty industry will offer a variety of tools to help businesses. Additionally, a phone line, 13 28 66, will allow you to access any advice between 8.00am and 6.00pm Monday to Friday.

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Know when to register for GST and how to manage it Understand why you need to lodge your activity statement and income tax return Know the difference between an employee and a contractor and what that means to your business Compare your business to others using the small business benchmarks

WHAT DOES ALL THIS MEAN TO YOU? If we were to simplify all this and determine what it means it would be this: The ATO is aware that there are a lot of discrepancies and non-compliance in the hair and beauty industry and they are attempting to put forward tools and recommendations as well as liaise with industry bodies and associations to gain the support in getting the word out there. As I have said, the first letter will go out in August and the second early next year. The objective of these letters is to inform the industry of their obligations and direct them to where they can gain the right tools to further understand what is required of them. However, as indicated above, the second phase will be the “compliance” phase – in essence what that means is that they will then crack-down on businesses and implement penalties with those who have not complied, as they will no longer have any excuse of not knowing.

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KEY HAIR & BEAUTY INDUSTRY FIGURES 2011 42,566 businesses within the industry – of those 40,203 have active ABN registration – of these 17,432 with active GST registration (42%)

In the next issue of APJ we will look at financial benchmarking as determined by the ATO, however, suffice to say that this is a serious strategic plan to which the ATO is committed, so when you receive their letter please take their advice seriously. We will continue to keep you informed of developments, meanwhile please take a look at State by State statistics below that have led to the reason for this strategy, as our industry has been identified as having a high rate of non-lodgement of tax returns. As I always say about professional ethics – a bad reputation does not just affect the individual, but also has a ripple effect on the industry as a whole.

BECOME A SPECIALIST Grow your skills and knowledge and gain the competitive advantage. Train in highly specialised and in-demand procedures with an internationallyqualified expert with over 20 years experience. Having trained in several countries in the world Sara Naderi will train you and share her skills and extensive knowledge.

WA 4,242 businesses, 2,206 (52%) GST registered NT 232 businesses, 130 (56%) GST registered SA 3,237 businesses, 1,629 (50%) GST registered QLD 8,862 businesses, 4,579 (52%) GST registered NSW 14,236 businesses, 8,039 (56%) GST registered ACT 573 businesses, 356 (62%) GST registered VIC 10,778 businesses, 5,600 (52%) GST registered TAS 841 businesses, 435 (52%) GST registered

INDUSTRY PERFORMANCE

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post-graduate advanced international techniques, as well as beginners courses (Government Approved Qualifications also available: SIBVSKS504A Design and Perform Cosmetic Tattooing). This is one of the most popular and lucrative procedures in demand.

EYEBROW THREADING – Learn from the expert how to perfect eyebrows with this amazing technique.

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20% Discount if you undertake training in two courses.

Manly Creative Hair & Beauty | Ph: 0405 463 636 | www.manlycreativehair&beauty.com.au

WA: 4,242 NT: 234 SA: 3,237 QLD: 8,862 NSW: 14,236 ACT: 573 VIC: 10,708 TAS: 841

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BUSINESS BY STATE

APAN'S POSITION Our role in all of this is to assist the ATO to better understand the pressures and dynamics of our industry.

Many therapists work long hours and then come home to pick up duties as mothers, wives or partners.

Becoming familiar with the ATO's website would probably be the last priority on their mind. While this may be the case, responsibilities are still responsibilities, and our best recommendation for those in such a predicament is to employ a competent bookkeeper a couple of hours a week to ensure that their record keeping is kept up-to-date in order to eliminate the chances of nasty surprises and more stress further down the track.

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2,140 businesses have three or more income tax returns outstanding 27,158 taxpayers within this industry lodged their 2012 income tax return 27% of these reported income greater than $75,000 34,689 businesses appear to be getting their tax right, however, 18.5% of businesses within the industry are rated as high risk according to the ATO omitted income models 2,264 businesses reporting >4% outside key benchmark ratio.

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CHRISTINA MIRIAM ZEHAVI A life of dedication to SKIN SCIENCE and the pursuit of COSMECEUTICAL FORMULATIONS

By Matoyla Kollaras Often the success of a product formulation has as its driving force not just a company, but also a passionate individual who would not stop short of what they considered still needed improvement. This is the story of Christina Miriam Zehavi, president and founder of Christina Cosmeceuticals.

Heralded as a pioneer in her field, she has travelled the globe working with some of the most prominent dermatologists and product formulators. She was one of the first aestheticians to work with chemical peels and retinoic acid and went on to successfully create and develop her own signature range of treatments and products, Christina Cosmeceuticals, that have now enjoyed success for over 30 years.

As a paramedical aesthetician Christina Miriam Zehavi had extensive experience in the treatment of the most challenging skin conditions and disorders such as severe burns, war-trauma victims and acne scarring. She has and continues to work with leaders in the field of anti-ageing medicine and plastic surgery.

With this vast knowledge behind her, Christina understood the need for products that provided visible and measurable results, without compromising or damaging the skin's health.

Eager to bring her vision to life, Christina started developing and manufacturing unique products that provided professional solutions for a wide range of skin conditions and problems due to both internal and external/environmental causes. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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That was over 30 years ago, and today as a result of her personal vision Christina Cosmeceuticals enjoy a global reputation in over 52 countries.

Christina Miriam Zehavi is a highly inspirational woman who is now considered as one of the world's foremost leaders in the field of professional and paramedical skincare. She conducts workshops and is invited as a keynote speaker at numerous conferences, including anti-ageing medicine, non-cosmetic and plastic surgery congresses

and symposiums around the world, as well as is regularly interviewed on television programs.

Regardless of her busy schedule, her passion still lies in personally treating skin conditions, and so she also remains active in her role as a hands-on aesthetician as well as a sought after educator. To add to her already remarkable résumé, Christina has for the past 21 years been the Editor in Chief of the Israeli Edition of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques.

Christina Zehavi's energy seems to know no bounds and is recognised globally as a positive influence throughout all her endeavours.

In a recent interview conducted by Matoyla Kollaras, we were delighted to gain some insight into her amazing professional life and achievements.

Q1. Christina, in your early career you worked in hospitals treating severely disfigured skin from various traumas. Can you tell us a little about this period in your life and how this came about. What were some of the treatments you were involved with and what were your experiences?

Christina: In the 1960s I was privileged to work in hospitals in Buenos Aires (Argentina), USA and Tel Aviv (Israel) with some of the most respected doctors in the field of gerontology, plus plastic and reconstructive surgery. We were working on patients with severe postacne scarring, and war injuries such as serious burns and shrapnel damage. As you would be aware Israel was in protracted conflicts at that time with neighbouring States. Treatments mainly involved the use of Phenol peels, CO2, nitrogen and dermabrasion. At the time, these treatments were strictly for skin trauma patients (not antiageing), however, we began to notice an interesting phenomenon.

Although the initial purpose of these treatments was to peel the skin, with time and the progressive use of the treatments, we began to see profound anti-ageing effects, including skin rejuvenation, improvement in wrinkles and sun damage, and also a tightening and firming of the skin. As a result it wasn't long before these treatments

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began to make their way into the clinics of doctors and dermatologists for the purpose of treating ageing skin. This was also the time that TCA peels started to enter the market being used by qualified aesthetic therapists. As you can appreciate, being able to take part in a hands-onapproach to these treatments from the very beginning meant that I was able to accumulate vast knowledge and experience in the field of peels and their effects on the skin.

Q2. I also understand that you were one of the very first aestheticians to work with glycolic acid and retinoic acid. Can you please elaborate on the lessons learnt when working with these ingredients?

Christina: I was first exposed to glycolic acid in the United States through a very good acquaintance of mine, Dr Alex Levenberg. Dr Alex Levenberg is a plastic surgeon and respected member of the American International Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS). I was working with Dr Levenberg in his clinic at the time and together we were the first to bring glycolic acid into Israel and begin working with it on patients. This was a very steep learning curve because this acid did not behave like anything we knew and we thought we had seen and worked with all of them. However, glycolic acid was a very big surprise to us; on one hand it was non-toxic and yet we were faced with many unexpected and often unwanted side-effects when using it, from mild reactions to severe complications.

experience with peels and the effect they had on skin rejuvenation, so I was quick to understand that this new discovery could completely change the whole spectrum of the cosmetic field, which it most certainly did. Today vitamin A is still the gold standard in anti-ageing, even with so many new ingredients that have become available.

Q3. There is no doubt from what you have told us so far that you certainly were at the cutting edge of some of the most significant advances in the cosmetic world. Can you tell us of any recent new developments in technologies or formulations?

Christina: Our company pioneered the use of coral for healing and peeling that has been incorporated in our ROSE DE MER treatment system. Our researched confirmed that corals not only possess therapeutic properties, but that this ingredient also can deliver

We slowly started to become aware of several important issues when working with this acid: the significance of the pH, the duration that the acid was left on the skin and even the way that it was applied also mattered. Most importantly, we also worked out that if we changed the base of the formulas we could also change the skin's reaction and its response to the peel. Above all, we also realised how imperative it was to analyse the skin correctly and never, ever do any peels on dehydrated skin. This knowledge has shaped the way we formulate the peels and all our treatments in my own systems. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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As for the retinoic acid (vitamin A in its purest form), I was first exposed to this ingredient through the respected Dermatologist Professor Albert Kligman in the USA. Shortly afterwards I was fortunate enough to give a lecture with Professor Kligman at a conference held in Brazil, thus getting to know him personally.

Professor Kligman (who invented the cream Retin A (Tretinoin) for acne and wrinkles among other achievements) was the first person to confirm the effect retinoic acid had on skin rejuvenation. Up until this time retinoic acid was only used to treat acne. At the time of meeting and working with Professor Kligman, I already had extensive

Extremely valuable skin-renewing properties through its effective peeling capabilities, which is also one of its unique characteristics.

The coral silicate particles combined with plant and marine extracts stimulate the skin through a unique mechanism that heats the skin and stimulates microcirculation. Over the next five days the various layers of the epidermis are lifted, stimulating amazing skin renewal and regeneration. This is a completely different method that works from the inside out and is a different mechanism to chemical peels.

This system is also 100% natural, offering an extremely effective

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skin-renewal treatment for clients looking for a natural alternative to skin peeling and rejuvenation. We were the first company to harness and launch this peel on the market worldwide.

P r o f e s s o r I v o P i t a n g u y, a philanthropist, plastic surgeon and educator, began working at a Brazilian hospital. On December 17, 1961, a burning circus tent fell on 2,500 spectators in the Brazilian city of Niterói. He treated burn victims for weeks on an emergency basis.

He later referred to the event as life changing, as it taught him that for many, physical appearance was as critical to them as life itself.

Mr H. Pierantoni – the legendary founder of the French publication Les Nouvelles Esthetiques, which was launched in 1952 in Paris. LNE has now grown into an international trade publication with a definitive worldwide reputation in virtually every continent and translated in various languages.

Q5. We hear that you have a 'superstar' status in Brazil with public recognition and when there you are often asked for your autograph!

Christina: First, thank you for the compliments, I am very humbled.

I started travelling to Brazil some 20 years ago as a guest of Les Nouvelles Eesthetiques and I have since then been repeatedly invited to give lectures and educate both aestheticians and doctors. But Brazil is just one of many destinations that I travel to each year, including USA, Russia, Baltic States, etc. Actually 80% of those treating the skin with Christina Cosmeceuticals in Russia are in fact doctors. We do have slightly more active protocols for the Russian market, however.

Q6. Christina, what was the first treatment range that you developed and why?

Christina: Christina Cosmeceuticals was launched over 30 years ago and is the result of my professional experience in the skincare industry. I was and still am a hands-on practitioner and I have never stopped working on skin. It is this knowledge of constantly exploring the needs of the skin that allows me to pursue and develop effective solutions.

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I understood that there was a great market need for products that provided visible and measurable results, and my goal was to design such products without endangering or damaging the skin's overall

Professor Ivo Pitanguy and his daughter, Dr. Gisela Pitanguy.

I have been the Editor-in-Chief of the Israeli edition of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques for the past 20 years, which has been an enormous responsibility, but also invaluable experience.

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and work with many prominent doctors, dermatologists and scientists across the globe that have all had a strong, positive professional impact on me as well as on the products that were born out of my interaction with them. I would like to also acknowledge:

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Q4. Christina, who else has had an influential factor in your career?

Christina: I have been fortunate to meet

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health. So I started developing and manufacturing unique products that provided solutions for a large variation of skin problems at a time when the vast majority of skincare companies were only creating products for skin types, rather than skin conditions. To this day this is still a revolutionary approach, with only a handful of cosmetic companies developing products specifically for skin problems. Our solutions focus on the internal causes without neglecting the external and environmental factors that led to the specific skin condition.

My first product was BIOPHYTO – my signature treatment. Because of its highly advanced formula and use of ingredients such as salicylic acid, I was told by many that I was quite mad creating as my first skincare range something so active for aestheticians to use – surely this was setting myself up for failure? However, not only did I prove the sceptics wrong, but to this day this treatment remains as popular, effective and as relevant as ever.

Our company also changed the way that hyaluronic acid was used in formulas. We created 'THERASKIN' in response to the way HA was used in Europe at the time, which we thought was not active enough or completely bio-available to the skin. We were determined to make our own HA formula, a formula that would work on the skin inside and out. We wanted to ensure that clients could see and feel the results.

After all this is an incredible ingredient that needed to be the star of the formula. I can tell you it took much research and development to perfect this product and it wasn't an easy task 30 years ago, especially with the limited information and ingredients at our disposal. The formula has since been improved and we see some incredible results.

Q7. What is unique about your systems is that they are very hands-on, including massage techniques, an art form that seems to have been lost in the new world of advanced technologies and equipment. Why was it important for you to combine the traditional arts of aesthetics with scientific treatments and formulations?

Christina: The reason why massage and the hands-on approach are important from a therapist's perspective is that it is a key component in relaxing the client. However, there are other more important reasons as well.

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First, your hands are your best tools in feeling and detecting issues that sometimes your eyes cannot detect or see. Second, the power of massage is indisputable, with science now positively confirming our long-held belief of its amazing benefits.

without altering the underlying DNA, so non-genetic factors such as the environment, diet, stress and behaviour and other factors can activate chemical switches that can alter the way our genes are expressed.

Psycho-dermatology is a new field of medicine that recognises that the skin and mind are connected on many levels. Many nerve endings are connected to the skin, so as emotions are played out neurologically, they can contribute to various manifestations through the skin. At least 30% of dermatology patients have some underlying psychological issue.

Regardless of our genetic makeup, I strongly believe that we do have control of the genetic ageing of our skin. We can control oxidative stress, UV damage and toxication, which have an impact on the progression of skin ageing, pigmentation and acne, among other skin conditions. This also means that with the right tools such as lifestyle changes, diet and, of course, good skincare and treatments, we can affect the genetic expression positively, even if your parents did not pass down genetically perfect skin to you.

Studies at The Touch Research Institute of the University of Miami have shown that anxiety, mood levels and all parameters of skin disease manifestation such as redness, inflammation and itchiness are significantly improved after massage therapies.

Facial massage must never be overlooked because it offers many important benefits to the skin, for example, three key benefits are: 1. It helps to relax tight and stressed facial muscles, thus reducing the outward expression of fine lines and wrinkles 2. Massage aids in the relief of sinuses and allergic symptoms 3. Massage also facilitates the elimination of toxins in the face and neck by stimulating blood circulation and lymphatic flow.

Furthermore, by being 'in touch' with your client, you can better create a trusting long-term relationship that can lead to greater trust in your recommendations.

Q8. There is no doubt that you possess a wealth of knowledge and incredible experience, what are the latest new development that you consider exciting for the future of skincare?

Christina: I have been lecturing on the topic of genetic factors that impact our skin for over three years now, and the science to back this up is found in a relatively new field of genetic medicine known as Epigenetics.

The science of Epigenetics says that gene expression can be altered

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We must remember that we are the guardians of our genome – this certainly is a profound thought and one that we are just starting to come to terms with and one that will also forever change the way we can have control over our health – mind, body and skin, and how the health industry, including aesthetics will evolve.

Q9. Christina, in closing would you like to have a final word about your life and the future of your company?

Christina: I have been involved in the creation and development of scientific skincare for over 30 years now. Even so, the joy, optimism and the drive to continue in this pursuit remains with me and I feel extremely positive about the future of this company. Our manufacturing facilities are expanding and our R&D team is also growing with exciting and innovative treatments and products currently being developed. I have to say I have been extremely blessed and humbled on this journey. I have worked with many influential people, gained invaluable experience and I have had the opportunity to share my knowledge with aestheticians throughout the world.

Indeed it has been an amazing life and I look forward to the future with continued amazement and expectations for even better things ahead.

Christina Cosmeceuticals is distributed in Australia by Skin Factors Ph: 1800 824 282

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seems boundless. The fascination has been fostered by the remarkable work of a group of scientists who, just 10 years ago, finished mapping the entire human genome, an enormous undertaking which has led to a far deeper understanding of how our genes affect our health.

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If we were to unravel the entire DNA in every cell in the human body, it would stretch from earth to the sun and back 70 times! This enormous library of information stores every little characteristic that makes you unique!

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The Human Genome Project succeeded in cataloguing each of the 30,000 genes which reside in each cell of every human being; some of these 30,000 genes we share with other species on this planet but our particular combination of genes define us as uniquely human. So why should we care?

Interesting as it is to know these facts about our DNA, what is more useful is the knowledge that can influence our genomes in ways that can improve our health. It is not so very long ago that we thought that the genes we were st st born with were 'cast in concrete', never to be altered. So, if we saw that

By Christine Houghton B.Sc.(Biochem.),Grad.Dip.Hum.Nutr.,R.Nutr.,Ph.D. B.Sc.(Biochem.),Grad.Dip.Hum.Nutr.,R.Nutr.,Ph.D. Cand.

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Nutritional a long line of our older relatives all Nutritional Biochemist Biochemist developed the same disease (for example heart disease), we would have assumed that we would be The terms nutrigenomics and epigenetics are often used powerless to stop it developing in ourselves as well. What's been interchangeably, however they have different meanings and it is unfolding over the past decade is the exciting fact that we DO have important that we understand their difference as these are terms that significant control over our genome in ways we never thought are currently also entering the world of skincare formulations and possible. And this can translate to much better health for us all.

Nutrigenomics or Epigenetics

The must-know buzzwords of 21 century healthcare

behavioural science as neuroscientists have identified how we think and speak can also affect our gene expression. In this article Dr Houghton demystifies these terms and explains the role of nutrigenomics and epigenetics in health and longevity.

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We've always held a fascination with our DNA, the huge library of genetic information stored in every one of the 50 trillion or so cells which make up the human body. The almost magical secrets stored in our DNA find themselves woven into television dramas and murder mysteries. It seems that a single hair or a lipstick smudge on a glass can be enough to accurately identify an individual! But can we utilise information about DNA to enhance our health?

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Away from the screen and back to the real world, our fascination with DNA

Figure 1 Lenghts of coiled DNA are grouped into genes. Each gene carries the code that the cell uses to make a specific protein. Each of these proteins are essential for normal cell function.

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WORKING WITH DNA 'SPELLING MISTAKES' Every time a human cell divides to produce two new cells it has to copy the exact DNA from its 'library blueprint' into the two new cells. This should result in a perfect DNA copy in the new cells but, for a variety of reasons, it may not be. In short, the copy process sometimes produces spelling mistakes – or typos!

When a spelling mistake occurs in a gene, it may not make the gene worthless; more likely the DNA code produces a protein (usually an enzyme) that doesn't work as well as it should. So the job gets done but perhaps only at 70% of the expected efficiency.

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Geneticists call these faulty genes 'SNPs', pronounced 'snips' (single nucleotide polymorphisms). We all have numerous SNPs and in part, this is what makes us each uniquely different. Some of these SNPs, such as toenail shape, don't affect one's health or wellbeing.

On the other hand, if you have a SNP which prevents your blood vessels from relaxing as they should, you Figure 2 Young broccoli sprouts as the highest source of nutrigenomically-active Sulforaphane. may develop high blood pressure and other cardiovascular abnormalities. This can be perplexing because you might be careful to eat well, exercise regularly and get abnormal gene SNPs. The advantage of a 100% whole broccoli enough rest but still your blood pressure tends to be higher than sprout supplement over eating broccoli as a food is that a consumer normal. can be certain of obtaining a predictable amount of sulforaphane which is easily destroyed by inappropriate handling.

GENOME PROFILING New information about the human genome now makes it possible to have a sample of your DNA taken and selected genes tested for the presence of SNPs. One of the genes which, is associated with the elasticity of the blood vessels is a gene known as eNOS (endothelial nitric oxide synthase). If you have an abnormal variant in the eNOS gene, you may be one of those whose blood pressure seems to defy all attempts to control it using a sensible lifestyle. The eNOS gene is also associated with the way blood clots in the vessels. So how does it help me?

The rapidly-growing field of Nutrigenomics may provide solutions to help you to optimise the function of the variant genes. Certain foods are known to influence many common gene SNPs and so it is possible to select particular foods and/or nutrigenomically active supplements to increase the expression of the abnormal genes towards normal.

NUTRIGENOMICALLY ACTIVE FOODS AND SUPPLEMENTS The word 'nutrigenomics' is derived from 'nutri' meaning food and 'genomics' referring to your genes, in other words, 'your food talking to your genes'. One of the most bioactive nutrigenomic food chemicals is a compound known as 'sulforaphane' which is released in abundance from certain forms of broccoli sprouts. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Sulforaphane (pr. Sul-4-a-fane) is capable of activating a molecular 'switch' in human cells and this switch influences literally hundreds of genes, each of which is associated with the way human cells protect themselves. In fact, Australian scientists have developed special sulforaphaneyielding supplements which can be used to counter the effects of many

OUTDATED AND FLAWED 'ANTIOXIDANT' THEORIES For 60 years, vitamin supplements such as vitamins C, E and others have been promoted as a way of activating the cell's defences. It was thought that disease and premature ageing were caused by exposure to free radicals in the environment. The simplistic notion that 'all free radicals are bad and all antioxidants are good' has turned out to be quite simply wrong, and yet this theory has driven mega-consumption of synthetic vitamin supplements without there being adequate evidence for their benefit, unless a frank deficiency exists.

Research over the past decade has clearly shown that 'free radicals' in fact act as signals to tell the cell to 'switch on' its own defence systems.

What excessive amounts of antioxidant vitamins do is to mask these signals; as a result, the cell doesn't know that it should be switching on its defences and therefore remains unprotected from the threat of environmental damage.

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Without a doubt, our new understanding of the power of Nutrigenomics opens doors to personalised healthcare we only dreamt about a decade ago. This is because we can activate our cells' own defence systems using particular food molecules in exactly the same way as Mother Nature does.

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Even though we may have inherited some defective genes from our parents, the expression of many abnormal gene variants can be improved by choosing certain foods that can restore more normal function of that gene. So, even if all the members of your family appear to have suffered the same illness, presumably due to inheriting one or more abnormal gene SNPs, our newer understanding of nutrigenomics enables us avoid developing that same disease by choosing foods or supplements known to improve the expression of the defective gene(s).

one carbon and three hydrogen atoms. Such 'paper clips' can switch on certain genes and switch off others. In some cases, epigenetic changes are harmful as when Nature's protective Tumour Suppressor gene is switched off, a situation which occurs early in the development of most cancers. At other times, epigenetic changes can be beneficial and can be associated with our need to adapt to a changing environment.

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THE MAKING OF A QUEEN BEE EPIGENETICS VISIBLY AT WORK The most remarkable example of epigenetics at work is demonstrated in the way that a Queen Bee is 'created' by feeding a worker bee differently from the rest of the bees.

The bees make highly nutritious Royal Jelly which is fed to just one bee who subsequently develops into a Queen Bee; such an extraordinary transformation simply as a result of the composition of the Royal Jelly.

EPIGENETICS “BUZZWORD” NUMBER 2 Often used interchangeably with 'nutrigenomics', the word 'epigenetics' is also associated with the way our genes are expressed, although different in its action.

As we saw earlier, SNPs occur when DNA makes the equivalent of 'spelling mistakes' in copying the code. In this way, the expression of the gene changes, so that the proteins produced from the defective code don't work as efficiently as they should if the error had not occurred.

Every one of the bees in the same hive carries genetically identical DNA. However, different bees in the hive have different roles as drones, nurses, workers and of course the one selected to be Queen. Even with identical DNA structure, the bees develop differently just because they are fed differently. It seems incredible that Royal Jelly can effect such epigenetic changes that a worker bee can not only become larger, but also adopt a different role within the social hierarchy of the hive.

EPIGENETICS – THE GOOD AND THE BAD Epigenetic changes also modify the way in which a gene is expressed but in a different way. Let's imagine that certain small molecular groups are like paper clips and that we can pin a paper clip on to part of the DNA; we can also remove it later without damaging the basic structure of the DNA.

Epigenetics can have numerous effects, some desirable and others unwanted. Poor lifestyle choices such as smoking and excessive alcohol consumption can activate epigenetic changes in certain genes; disease becomes more likely and health and longevity less likely.

The most common form of 'paper clip' is a methyl group made up of

Most alarming is the fact that we can pass these epigenetic tags onto our offspring, so that our children and grand-children can be born with

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Figure 3 Methyl groups are like paper clips which can attach to the DNA and switch the gene 'on' or 'off'.

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the same disease-promoting tendencies that we acquired in our younger years; this adds another dimension to the expression, “the sins of the father…”

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Epigenetics is also visibly at work when individuals survive famine. There have been several great famines in recorded history during which pregnant women survived and gave birth to apparently healthy offspring.

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Because the surviving mothers were forced to adapt to lowered food intake, they carried epigenetic tags on their genes, the means by which they were able to adapt to their dire circumstances.

When the children of those women were born with the same epigenetic markers, they quickly became overweight once they started to eat a normal diet; the epigenetic 'memory' of their cells behaved as though they were living in an environment of famine, behaving to conserve energy. Some scientists think that this carry-over effect from adaptation to past famines may be an added contributor to today's obesity epidemic.

HOW DOES KNOWLEDGE OF NUTRIGENOMICS AND EPIGENETICS AFFECT ME? The growing popularity of this paradigm is such that in January, 2010, TIME magazine featured it on its front cover.

The Special Article entitled “Why Your DNA Isn't Your Destiny” sought to capture the enormous importance of this new concept in personalised healthcare.

Its message was to convey the fact that no longer are we as individuals dealt a rigid genetic hand of cards at birth; instead, by modifying our environment and lifestyle choices, we can maximise the expression of our genes.

What is so profound is that every mouthful of food we consume contains compounds which engage in complex and intricate 'conversations' with our genes, modifying their expression for better… or for worse, depending on the foods we eat and the lifestyle choices we make.

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From the very first contact a new baby has with its mother's milk or colostrum, signals are being sent to the baby's genome. There can be lifetime consequences to infants (and their offspring) who are fed over-processed foods early in life; changes to the child's epigenome acquired during its lifetime can be passed down to subsequent generations.

Each of us in our pre-reproductive years has a huge responsibility to take care of the genome our children and grandchildren will inherit.

Rather sobering, isn't it, especially when our youthful prereproductive years are often spent abusing our body in ways that are pushing our cells to the absolute limit?

Figure 4 Front cover of TIME magazine January 18, 2010.

Nutrigenomics teaches us that food is so much more than a means of satisfying appetite; food is a library of complex chemical compounds continuously interacting with our DNA. Nutrigenomically active substances are like the conductors of an orchestra, sending continuous subtle signals to the musicians so that the finished performance is perfectly synchronised. Such is the magnificent and complex function of human cells. We are really only just beginning to comprehend their intricacies as we sit on the cusp of this exciting new paradigm in personalised health care. ㄰

Christine Houghton BSc (Biochem) Grad.Dip Hum.Nutr.PhD.Cand. is a Nutritional Biochemist with over 30 years' experience as a private practice clinician in Nutritional Medicine. Her particular interest is focused on Nutrigenomics, a strategy for identifying natural compounds capable of up-regulating the genes that cells use to prevent disease-promoting processes. Christine is also the author of “Switched On Harnessing the Power of Nutrigenomics to Enhance Health”. For more information visit www.cell-logic.com.au

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An interview with the King of Hormones DR THIERRY HERTOGHE, MD Dr Thierry Hertoghe, MD is a world-renowned leading endocrine expert and practising physician from Brussels, Belgium. He is internationally recognised as a leading specialist in Adult Hormone Deficiency Therapy and is the President of the International Hormone Society. He travels the world lecturing on the latest scientific findings and effective treatments for a variety of health issues that can be addressed with correct hormonal and nutritional protocols. th

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In 2013 Dr Hertoghe was hosted at the 7 A5M Annual Conference in Melbourne on the 24-25th August with the theme Obesity & Metabolic Syndrome. Dr Hertoghe also presented a workshop for physicians in which he discussed an array of techniques, successfully used by endocrine experts across Europe and the US. His methods and protocols are cutting-edge and have earnt him a global reputation as a leading authority in the area of hormones.

It was our privilege to have Dr Hertoghe accept to be interviewed

by APJ to share with us some of the latest information of obesity and effective weight-loss approaches.

APJ 1: Dr Hertoghe, can you please share with us some of the latest scientific information on the subject of obesity and metabolic syndrome?

Dr Hertoghe: What we now understand is that in order to lose weight and maintain it, the most important issue of consideration is to determine ways to control appetite.

There are several nutrients that can offer effective support in appetite suppression – some of the most effective are the following: Chromium: Chromium is a mineral that humans require in trace amounts. Chromium is important because it enhances the action of insulin, a hormone critical to the metabolism and storage of carbohydrate, fat and protein in the body and helps maintain normal levels of sugar (glucose) in the blood. When sugar levels are out of balance they contribute to hypoglycemia and this can trigger compulsive eating. In the 1960s, chromium was found to correct glucose intolerance and insulin resistance, the two indicators that the body is failing to properly control blood-sugar levels and that are precursors of type 2 diabetes.

5-HTP (5-Hydroxytryptophan): This is a compound produced in the body from the amino acid tryptophan. It is a precursor to the neurotransmitter serotonin and the hormone melatonin. 5-HTP supplements have become popular because they have been proven to boost the body's serotonin levels, similar to the antidepressants that are thought to increase the amount of serotonin available to the brain.

For this reason 5-HTP has been used for depression, anxiety, insomnia, fibromyalgia, migraine and weight loss because it can calm the body, lowering the frustration from pressure and stress that often leads to random and compulsive eating for the purpose of comfort. 5HTP has also been proven to be an excellent appetite reducer.

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Oxytocin: This is the warm-heartedness and sociability hormone that is released during childbirth facilitating birth and maternal bonding.

Oxytocin is a neurohypophysial hormone that acts primarily as a neuromodulator in the brain. Recent studies have begun to investigate oxytocin's role in various behaviours, including orgasm, social recognition, pair bonding, anxiety and maternal behaviours. For this reason it is sometimes referred to as the "love hormone". Studies have also found that oxytocin can help to regulate food intake and energy metabolism. These findings reveal the novel anti-obese and antimetabolic-syndrome effects of oxytocin.

The role of hormones has now been proven to help reduce fat. Male hormones are helpful in strengthening muscles and prevent droopy muscles during weight loss. Low-calorie diets require support to protect against muscle loss. A lean, firm body is youthful, but a lean body with weak, droopy muscles is ageing.

Also, certain amino acids and nutrients used in conjunction with weight loss have been proven important. These are recommended to be taken in capsule form or in powder form (without sugar). These include Chromatin, a complex structure composed of DNA and proteins, Glutamine, which is one of 20 amino acids formed by the human body. Glutamine improves mental function controls blood sugar levels as well as muscle mass among other things.

Another amino acid is Carnitine, also known as L-Carnitine – a naturally occurring nutrient that is produced in the kidneys and liver and manufactured in the body from the essential amino acids lysine and methionine. Carnitine helps carry fatty acids into the mitochondria in cells so that they can convert these acids into energy.

It is therefore considered a viable supplement for weight loss and exercise enhancement. Other amino acids are creatine and tyrosine.

Additionally, omega-3 and omega-6 essential fatty acids have been shown to have weight-loss benefits. Omega-3 is often found in fish oil, while omega-6 is found in flaxseed oil. Studies confirm that consuming omega-3 fatty acid supplements can help burn fat at a 26% higher rate than if not taken.

APJ 2: Can you suggest successful activities and hormone therapies that can assist in effectively reducing weight?

Dr Hertoghe: There is no doubt that physical exercise burns calories – the more physically active you are the more you lose weight.

Studies confirm that 95% of people who do not exercise will put their weight back on, so it is important to ensure that when you lose weight you keep it off. The type of exercise you need will depend on your body type. If you are muscular, weights will only add bulk. With extra muscles your weight will not change. Those body types will need to do more aerobic exercises, such as jogging, swimming or cycling, but not body-building exercise if they wish to achieve global weight-loss.

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In terms of hormones, certain bio-identical hormones can help reduce fat while supporting lean muscles. These are more effective when their root of administration is transdermal such as Oestrogel/Estradiol, while synthetic hormones that are administered orally can increase fat mass. This is because synthetic hormones metabolise in the liver and certain liver metabolic reactions are not good for weight loss.

Hormones are critical in supporting weight-loss and for this reason must be well balanced. For example, a female that has too much oestrogen can develop extra weight in the breasts. Ensuring that your

thyroid hormones are well balanced can also help to achieve a firmer body with more energy.

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APJ 3: Can you give us some valuable tips for a successful weight-loss program?

Dr Hertoghe: One of the most important factors in assisting the body with weigh-loss is getting sufficient sleep. Ideally you should get seven to eight hours of sleep a night. This is because insufficient sleep can affect two hormones. Ghrelin is a hormone associated with increased appetite and addictive behaviour and has been also linked to compulsive eating via neurotransmitter and hormonal pathways of the reward system.

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Insufficient sleep also suppresses leptin. Leptin is manufactured primarily in the adipocytes of white adipose tissue, and the level of circulating leptin is proportional to the total amount of fat in the body.

Leptin plays a key role in regulating energy intake and expenditure, including appetite and hunger, metabolism and behaviour. It is one of the most important adipose-derived hormones. This hormone is associated with increased appetite that can lead to eating up to 40% more food, mainly sweets.

Another valuable tip is to drink plenty of clean, pure water. Tests have shown that drinking half a litre of water before each meal can lead to a decrease of up to 200 calories per day. Such a decrease can amount to quite a few calories in a 12-month period and can prevent weight gain.

Often we confuse thirst with hunger, so when we drink sufficient water it can have a suppressive effect on our appetite.

Another tip is to chew your food well and as much as possible, consciously select your food choices and eat slowly. For example, eating while watching TV can lead to you eating without consideration of what you are actually eating or the quantity that you are eating. Your food should be nutritionally well-balanced.

APJ 4: There are many different weight-loss theories. Do you believe that the hormonal status of the individual will determine how effective their weight-loss will be and can you give us some examples?

Dr Hertoghe: It is important to ensure that you have well-balanced hormones as these issues are critical to losing weight and keeping it off. It is also important to examine and know your genetic predispositions. What are your genes saying about your tendency for weight gain? Check your appetite genes, as these will indicated if you will be inclined to put on more fat.

It is also important that you look at not only your hormonal status and nutritional status, but also your lifestyle habits and your eating choices as a whole and take responsibility for all these areas.

APJ 5: Can you give us a general overview of factors that have been proven to help support weight-loss and reduce weight gain?

Dr Hertoghe: As I mentioned before Chromium is an important nutrient to help suppress sugar graving – 800 mgs per day can assist with that. 5-HTP 25mgs at one time, or 10-15mgs several times a day, can help cravings due to stress.

Another important nutrient is Omega-3 fatty acid from fish oil.

Omega-3 is rich is ALA (alpha-linolenic acid), DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) and EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid). Taking 3gms per day will help protect against regaining weight. In terms of diet the Paleolithic diet of fresh fruit, vegetables (not canned),

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sprouted grains, low temperature cooked protein-rich foods (meat, fish and poultry), preferably organic, is advised that can improve energy levels.

Cooking fat at low temperatures is important to avoid conversion to trans fatty acids, which we know are no good as they increase the risks of coronary heart disease by raising levels of LDL cholesterol and lowering levels of "good" HDL cholesterol. Maintaining correct hormone levels, getting adequate sleep and drinking sufficient water are key. Another area that needs to be monitored is stress. Too much stress or the desire to do too much can contribute to weight gain. This is because stress decreases testosterone, thyroid hormones and growth hormones.

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APJ 6: In your opinion what hormonal excesses contribute to overweight problems?

Dr Hertoghe: There are three hormones that in excess can contribute to weight gain. These are: Insulin – as this can contribute to converting fat to cellulite and a tendency for a fatty belly. ! Cortisol – due to stress. An excess of cortisol can contribute to extra weight in the upper back and neck as well as ballooning or swollen face. To counteract this remove sugar from the diet and support the body with hormones such as melatonin or growth hormones. ! Oestrogen – excess can contribute to too much fat in the breasts, belly and pelvis. This can be counteracted with the appropriate doses of progesterone and male hormones.

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There are now several hormone modulators that can be prescribed to block excessive conversion.

APJ 7: Is there still a battle about the acceptance of bio-identical hormones?

Dr Hertoghe: There are still misconceptions against bio-identical hormones, which are outdated and unjustifiable as there are now numerous studies that support their benefits. The concept that growth hormones are dangerous is also incorrect. Growth hormones are essential to health and there are studies that show that deficiencies can lead to a decreased lifespan – woman can live up to 30-40 years less when deficient.

We are pursuing to achieve the legal right of way for patients to benefit from anti-ageing medicine. The best way to achieve this is to get the general public educated and interested. There are now many, many studies to back up and support the effective prevention of premature ageing and even reversing ageing. The regenerative approach doesn't just treat disease, it also supports the person who is healthy to get stronger and healthier.

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There is now genetic testing and numerous new technologies to test and determine the global picture of one's health to determine deficiencies and restore optimum health. We are slowly starting to see anti-ageing medicine included in the curriculum of some universities worldwide, which is encouraging – these include universities in Spain, France, Germany and in the US. However, some countries are regressing, while others are making progress.

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For further information on Dr Thierry Hertoghe visit http://www.hertoghe.eu/patients/ ㈵

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Where Green and Glamour Meet And you don't have to be a Vegan to love it!

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Become an EMANI Stockist today | info@bebeauty.com.au | 1300 885 101

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The Clinical Application of LED Light for Healing and Skin Rejuvenation

By Sarah McGrath While there is much information available about IPL and lasers on what they can achieve, less appears to be known about LED light and the physics that govern its capabilities in healing and skin rejuvenation. As LED is currently experiencing renewed interest, new research that has come to light reveals the power of this amazing technology. Sarah McGrath is a master trainer in LED and microcurrent. Here she presents some interesting research findings that unveil the potential of this amazing technology and how it can be used more successfully.

After years in the corporate manufacturing world, I decided on a “seachange” so that my husband and I could start a family. I have always been interested in natural health remedies, and was introduced to the world of IPL and LED by my good friend and mentor Bonnie Sleep.

During my training and clinical experience I have seen and treated many people for skin issues completely unrelated to skin rejuvenation, such as cuts, burns, psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis, and some pretty nasty open wounds caused by manufacturing accidents, and it's the healing mechanism of light therapy that has really ignited my interest to learn more. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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In the beauty clinic I currently work in, we operate an Omnilux Light Therapy, which was developed by Dr Colin Whitehurst of the Christie Hospital in Manchester, who while researching alternatives to laser in the treatment of skin cancer created a PDT (photodynamic therapy) a lamp that was able to kill cancer cells without damaging any of the * Dr Robert Glen Caulderhead is the International Research Coordinator at the Instituto Médico Vilafortuny, Cambrils, Spain and the Japan Phototherapy Laboratory, Tokyo, and a Visiting Professor in laser biomedicine at the School of Odontology, Department of Anatomy, Carmen Castilo Branco Campus, São Paulo University, Brazil. He is Secretary General of the International Society for Laser and Sports Medicine (ISLMS), the

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surrounding tissue. A wonderful side-effect, he noticed, was that the lamp was not only improving cancer lesions, but also rejuvenating the surrounding skin.

Dr Whitehurst went on to spent five years developing the Paterson lamp (designed at the Paterson Institute in Manchester), which has morphed into the modern Omnilux.

Last year I was at a seminar in Melbourne of Dr Robert Glen Caulderhead, who has a long and distinguished career in laser medicine. In the past 25 years he has delivered more than 150 invited and special guest lectures at national and international congresses, and more than 200 free papers. The co-author of two books on laser therapy, he has also collaborated on several others and has had more than 110 papers published in peer-reviewed journals. He is also the author and co-author of more than 130 scientific papers on biomedicine and phototherapy, and has been the author and collaborator of 10 books on laser therapy, laser surgery and simulation surgery. *See below his extensive credentials.

The following studies quoted below use various Omnilux LED Light Therapy Lamps, because they are considered to be the quintessential technology in LED.

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WHAT IS PHOTOTHERAPY?

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Phototherapy comes from the Greek terms “phos, photos” meaning “light” and “therapoeia” meaning “I treat or heal”. In its broadest meaning, phototherapy is any kind of treatment where a form of light

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World Anti-Aging Medical Association (WAMA) and the International Society for Simulation Surgery (ISSIS). He is Past Secretary General of the World Association for Laser Therapy (WALT), a Charter Executive Member of the newly formed International Phototherapy Association (IPA) and a member and international research fellow of the Royal Society of Medicine, London. Dr Caulderhead is a former Executive Managing Editor

of Laser Therapy and was educated at the University of Glasgow, Scotland, has an Honorary Research Fellow in Guy's Hospital Campus of the School of Medicine, University of London, at the Medical Faculty, Trinity University, Malaga in Spain and at the School of Medicine, Rochville University, MD. The protocols we now employ are those that he has developed with his 25 years of experience. (Bio courtesy of Touch Dermatology.com)

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is used. In the modern era, it has come to mean the use of non-invasive levels of light (photon energy) to achieve a non-surgical but clinical effect, in an atraumatic and athermal manner (cf 'photosurgery').

Blue, green and yellow light wavelengths penetrate poorly because of their absorbance, while deep penetration happens with red (633nm), and the deepest penetration occurs at near-infrared (830nm.)

LED (Light Emitting Diode) Light Therapy is the application of a very specific frequency of light to the skin. The various colours are determined by their wavelength. This produces a biological response called photo-biostimulation, whereby reactions take place in the cells and skin tissue in response to the wavelength of light. Both visible and near-infrared wavelengths stimulate changes in the body's cells.

Of course, the primary targets in phototherapy are skin cells. Our skin is the largest organ of the body that protects our body from the external environment. The skin has an ideal water content measurement and most importantly, contains all of the target cells for LED therapy. At any given time, the skin contains more than 20% of the body's blood.

PHOTOTHERAPY LIGHT SOURCES Flash-lamp technology (IPL) is non-coherent, polychromatic and delivers thermal damage to the skin cells.

Non-ablative skin rejuvenation laser systems are coherent in their wavelengths, but also deliver thermal damage.

LEDs are quasi-monochromatic (generally +/- 3-6 nm) and deliver photo-bioactivation, which is athermal and atraumatic. They work with the body's own natural frequencies to induce change, as opposed to delivering damage to induce change. There is no downtime, or side effects, no damage to sub-dermal tissue, and it's relaxing and calming to the candidate. LED is compatible with existing skin rejuvenation techniques such as Botox, IPLs, laser resurfacing and cosmetic surgery.

HOW DOES LED LIGHT THERAPY WORK? Light is the movement of photons, the fundamental particle of light.

They have a unique property in that they are both a particle and a wave.

This is what gives them the unique properties of refraction and diffusion both very important concepts in Phototherapy.

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DIFFERENCES IN THE WAYS CELLS ARE PHOTOACTIVATED

There are differences in how visible light and near-infrared light energy activate a cell. Visible light energy passes through the cell membrane and is absorbed by the intracellular organelles. The cell becomes activated from the inside-out to the membrane. The nearinfrared energy is absorbed first in the membrane and then inwards, before returning back out to the membrane. The end result is the same though – a photo-activated cell. The difference is that one is photophysical (visible red light) and one is photo-chemical (near-infrared.)

This is important though, because using both visible red light and near-infrared light concurrently confuses the cell due to the mechanisms of photo-activation. Therefore only one wavelength of light should be used at a time.

The light energy recharges the mitochondria of skin cells (the “power generator or battery” of a cell), giving them energy to perform at their maximum capacity. The light also opens up the communication channels between cells, through increasing the production of calcium ions (inter-cell signalling), which is where the “Bystander Cell Theory” comes into play. Not every single cell needs to be specifically targeted. Because of cell communication and signalling,

Photons are the most visible portion of the electromagnetic spectrum. Because light is another form of energy, it can be transferred or converted into other types.

For example, when light hits the skin it is both reflected from the stratum corneum and is transmitted through the epidermis and dermis. In the dermis the light is scattered and this is where a large volume of tissue can be targeted from a comparatively small light source. In skin therapy we want the light to be absorbed in the target tissue where the most important interaction of energy exchange can occur. If you don't get absorption of the light, then you don't get a bio-stimulating reaction.

The different colours of LED (determined by their wavelength) penetrate the skin to varying depths, causing the skin to respond by undergoing the Wound Healing Response.

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With the different wavelengths, we want to target very specific cells at specific depths. This is where intensity is very important. Without enough intensity, the light won't reach its target. If the light is matched to its target with good penetration, then the photo-biostimulatory response will occur.

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If there is increased optical density (absorbance) then there will be less penetration to target tissue – the higher the optical density the less the penetration of the wavelength of light.

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surrounding cells receive the same messages and the Wound Healing Process (WHP) begins indirectly. Damaged or compromised cells begin to repair, cells perform their functions better and cellular proliferation is increased.

The body is a very intelligent system, and LED Light Therapy has a “Systemic Effect” in this regard. For example, you may be treating dermatitis, eczema or psoriasis on an arm, and if the condition exists elsewhere that will also improve, due to the body’s ability to signal, communicate and exchange information.

USING MORE THAN ONE WAVELENGTH AT THE SAME TIME A NO-NO! Remember that the intensity and the wavelength are very important, and that when there is a high optical density, penetration is poor.

Because photons are little packets of energy, each wavelength has a different photon energy level. The light (photons) give the cell information, which is specific to its wavelength. If you give the cell conflicting information (as when combining different wavelengths or colours) you confuse the cell. If the cell is told to “go left” and “go right” simultaneously, the result is that the cell goes nowhere, or even worse, may shut down.

As mentioned previously, the way a cell is photo-activated by a visible frequency compared to a near-infrared frequency is completely different (photo-chemical versus photo-physical), so the cell again is confused when irradiated concurrently with different wavelengths, or even within the same 48-hour period.

Scanning an area with a specific frequency of LED light gives poor intensity, resulting in an under-active cellular process. The LED light source needs to be focused and targeted on the specific area for a specific level of time. Studies show that 20 minutes is the optimum time period (providing for intensity). There are no increased measurable benefits from a longer time period, however, below a 20minute period cellular activity is not maximised.

Many questions are asked of yellow light at 590nm. While it is broadly accepted that red and near-infrared wavelengths (633nm & 830nm) provide the best outcomes for the Wound Healing Process and Skin Rejuvenation, there is conflicting information about yellow light. The latest research indicates that due to the poor penetration of yellow light at 590nm, (high optical density of 7.8, therefore poor penetration) through a human hand, in vivo, there is very little benefit to be gained from a healing or skin rejuvenation perspective. In contrast, the same studies show that the 633nm wavelength (red) penetrates much greater with an optical density of 4.5, with the 830nm penetrating the furthest with an optical density of 3.1.

SHOULD LIGHT THERAPY BE ADMINISTERED AS A CONTINUOUS WAVE (CW) OR AS A PULSED LIGHT (PL) FOR SKIN REJUVENATION? ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Using an incident radiant flux (dose) of 2.25 joules/cm2 with an incident power at 56mW (milliwatt one thousandth of a watt) and measuring various pulsed beams (at 10Hz, 60Hz, 120Hz and 180Hz) and a continuous wave (and using a control beam) measurements of fibroblast growth (counted by increase in fibroblast cells) over a time period of 0 to 6 days shows a lineal relationship over time. However, with the continuous wave increasing fibroblast cells by 60,000, in comparison to the pulsed light beams, which showed an increase of between 22,000 (10Hz) to 48,000 (180Hz) over the same time period.

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ANY OLD “LED” WILL NOT DO The type of LED used is very important, and this is where institutions

such as NASA get involved. NASA has found that human cells need gravity to stimulate cell growth. Biologists have found that cells exposed to near-infrared light from LEDs (just outside the visible range) grow 150-200% faster than cells not stimulated by such light.

This has led to the development of the NASA light emitting diode.

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For the best outcomes, LED technology must have:

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An appropriate wavelength Be able to treat a large area uniformly Have a high photon intensity (mW/cm2) at an appropriately high dose (J/cm2).

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For example, ideally red LED at 633nm should have around 105mW/cm2 & 126 J/cm2, with near-infrared at 830nm to have an intensity of 55mW/cm2 and a standard dose of 66 J/cm2 ,while the blue wavelength at 415nm should have an intensity of 40mW/cm2 with a dose of 48 J/cm2.

The NASA diode is considered the epitome of LEDs for aesthetics because of its high photon intensity and high dose output. However, there must be a sufficient number of diodes precisely aligned in a reflective base to ensure that a zone of very high photon intensity is created over the target tissue.

Remember that the skin has light-scattering characteristics as well as being able to absorb the light, so the more LEDs you have aligned, closely together, the greater the intensity (penetration) and area you are able to treat.

WHY ARE DIFFERENT WAVELENGTHS IMPORTANT? When we use the term “red light” we are referring to the red wavelength of light in our visible light spectrum about 650 nm, although different LEDs may produce at slightly different wavelengths. There are many documented cases of cells undergoing change when exposed to red light. Red light is selectively absorbed by respiratory components of isolated cells (Fubini et al) at 633nm.

Maesters found that it has excellent healing capabilities with slow-toheal and non-healing ulcers (due to vascular insufficiency), and accelerates angiogenesis (development of blood vessels). Red light is absorbed preferentially in the redox chain of the mitochondria respiratory system (Karu), it stimulates fibroblasts in vitro to form mono-sheet faster with linear alignment (Trelles). Furthermore, it accelerates the recruitment and degranulation of mast cells (Trelles, Bolton, Dyson). Red light also increases the calcium ion production and inter-cell signalling in vitro and in vivo (Lubart). In a nutshell, red stimulates collage formation and is anti-inflammatory.

Near-infrared light accelerates the degranulation of mast cells even better than red light (Trelles, Bolton, Samoilova). It also stimulated better chemotaxis phagocytosis and internalisation in pooled human neutrophils (Shiroto, Dima). Additionally, it increases calcium ion production and inter-cell signalling in vitro and in vivo better than red (Lubart). Near-infrared stimulates collagen and promotes healing of tissue.

The 830nm wavelength in near-infrared light relieves muscle spasms and stiffness, relaxes muscle tissue and increases both the oxygen and nutrients to stiff muscle tissues, thereby increasing lymphatic drainage.

This wavelength acts on the hypertensive nerves (sympathetic system flight versus fight) to control and calm. This then assists random nerve firing, which controls spasms, decreasing stress hormones (para-sympathetic response).

The 830nm wavelength is excellent at assisting pain control (better than 633nm, because of the depth of penetration), and is recommended to apply 2-3 times a week before the pain is removed.

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The blue wavelength of light (415nm) is used mainly to treat moderate inflammatory acne vulgaris, but has a much better outcome when used in combination with red LED. A study undertaken by David Goldberg MD & Bruce Russell MD from the Skin Laser and Surgery Specialists of New York/New Jersey, and department of Dermatology, Mount Sinai School of Medicine, New York, published in the Journal of Cosmetic Laser Therapy (2006, 8: 71-75) found that there was an optimum reduction of 82% at 12 weeks post treatment, a marked reduction in pore size, sebum production was reduced by over 50% and there was no damage to the sebaceous gland.

There were 22 subject with inflammatory or nodular acne (Burton grades II, 5; III, 4: IV, 8: and V, 5) treated with alternate blue/red light therapy (twice a week, but with a minimum 48 hours apart for four weeks). Another study undertaken by Seung Yoon Lee MD, Chung Eui You MD and Mi Youn Park, MD PhD at the Department of Dermatology, National Medical Centre, Seoul, Korea and published in the Lasers in Surgery and Medicine Journal 2007 39: 180-188, using the same treatment protocols (twice a week, sequentially with the OmniluxTM blue and OmniluxTM Red, over four weeks) found a final mean clearance percentage of 77.93% (reduction in inflammatory lesions, papules, pustules, nodules and cysts,–eight weeks after the final treatment) with significant skin lightening highly desired in Asian societies.

HOW DOES LED LIGHT THERAPY WORK TO HEAL THE SKIN AND ALLOW FOR REJUVENATION? When using LED Light Therapy for skin rejuvenation, we initiate the Wound Healing Process (WHP) which involves three stages Inflammation, Proliferation and Remodelling.

Inflammation is important as if we don't have inflammation we cannot get Proliferation. (Steroids inhibit the immune response and inflammation.) At the Inflammation stage (0-3/4 days) Mast cells,

leukocytes and macrophages become active. The Mast cell releases cytokines and chemokines to attract other inflammatory cells. The leukocytes are the first line of defence against invading microorganisms, and recruit T-cells. They are also responsible for the production of Transforming Growth Factor Alpha and Beta (Fibroblast Growth Factor), which is required for fibroblast proliferation. The macrophages remove the dead and dying cells, along with other detritus and synthesise growth factors.

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Following the Inflammation stage the Proliferation stage is activated.

This happens between 3-21 days.

Here fibroblasts and endotheliocytes go to work; the fibroblasts synthesise new collagen and elastin fibres, creating a new structural matrix and maintaining the structural homeostasis. The endotheliocytes form new blood vessels, bringing nutrients and oxygen to feed the newly forming matrix.

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The third and longest stage is the Remodelling stage. This occurs between 18 days to six months. As in the previous stage, the cells drop back to their normal level.

Some fibroblasts change into myofibroblasts, this, however, only occurs through photo-activation.

Myofibroblasts have “barbs” and “hook” into the collagen bundles to pull them together into alignment, creating a compact, better linearly aligned matrix. Some fibroblasts de-differentiate into fibrocytes that replenish the stem cell store for the future.

Studies show that at 633nm and 830nm (compared with wavelengths at 590-595nm, 670nm, 790nm, 904nm and defocused beams of 1064nm & 10600nm) the greatest activation of Mast cells, macrophages and neutrophils occurs in the Inflammation Stage, however, a very high level of action occurs at the 830nm wavelength across all three cell types compared to the 633nm wavelength, where Mast cells rated high, macrophages rated moderate along with neutrophils. (Action Potential of cells was measured using five different levels of action; very high, high, moderate, none and

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In the Mast cell, there is an increase in the production of granules (histamine, serotonin, heparin and tryptase) so that pro-inflammatory and other granules move from the Mast cell into the surrounding normal tissue through the increase in cell permeability. This happens very quickly, within minutes. Following this, macrophage chemotactic factors, neutrophil chemotactic factors and fibroblast recruitment occurs within hours, instead of within 2-3 days.

At 830nm, LED induces “quasi-wounding”, where the WHP Inflammation response is started, without the inflammation, so that the Proliferation stage can begin far more quickly.

At the Proliferation stage, the 633nm wavelength reports the highest increase (very high) in fibroblast and endotheliocyte action potential, compared to all other wavelengths (as above), including the 830nm wavelength. In comparison, at 830nm, fibroblast action potential is only moderate and endotheliocyte action potential is high.

However it is at the Remodelling stage that we see significant change again. For the 830nm wavelength, the highest level (very high) of action potential is seen with the myofibroblasts, compared to only none to moderate increase seen with the 633nm wavelength. With the use of the 830nm wavelength of light, overall the WHP Remodelling stage sped up to occur from 10 days onwards, instead of 18 days to six months.

At the 633nm wavelength, fibroblasts, endotheliocytes, Mast cells and blood vessel walls are targeted. This is perfect for healing, and red light is wonderful for using both pre and post-surgery and for increasing the healing time (and reduction in scar tissue) of wounds.

At the 830nm wavelength keratinocytes, Mast cells, neutrophils, macrophages, fibroblasts, blood vessel walls, lymphatic cells and sensory nerves are targeted. Because of the more targeted approach and “quasi-healing” the Remodelling stage can occur between 12-15 days, instead of the 18 days to six months. The WHP time is cut dramatically and there is a dramatic increase in collagen.

SKIN REJUVENATION PROTOCOLS

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retardation.) This is due to the fact that the 830nm of light is mostly absorbed in the membrane and changes the permeability of the cell, where the sodium and potassium pumps are engaged.

A randomised, placebo-controlled double-blind and split-face clinical study on LED phototherapy for skin rejuvenation was conducted. It used clinical, profilometric, histologic, ultrastructural and biochemical evaluations and comparison of three different treatment settings - 633nm only, 830nm only, combination 830nm, 630nm and placebo red light. The study was conducted by Seung Yoon Lee, KiHo Park PhD, Jung Woo Choi MD, Jung-Kyun Kwon PhD et al and published in the Journal of Photomedicine and Photobiology (2007) 88: 51-67. The clinical study used Omnilux Plus LED at 830nm and Omnilux Revive LED at 633nm and found that a combination of using first, the 830nm wavelength, then the 633nm wavelength, twice a week, with 2-3 days apart, for 20 minutes per session and delivered over four weeks delivered the greatest reduction in the severity of wrinkles. The reduction rate of the melanin level was highest in the

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red light alone (633nm group) and the satisfaction level was highest in the group where the 830nm LED was used.

A similar study to determine the efficacy of combination LED therapy (633nm & 830nm) in facial rejuvenation by Dr Bruce Russell and published in the Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy 2005, 7: 196200 also produced equivalent results, particularly in the reduction of lines and wrinkles.

Considering that skin rejuvenation aims at wrinkle reduction and reversal of other signs of aged skin such as unhealthy and irregular skin tone, the combination of the 830nm and 633nm LED light is the optimal protocol for this purpose and contributed to different therapeutic effects of each wavelength of light.

IN CONCLUSION No single wavelength can attack all targets equally, so a combination of LED light therapies is required. However, because LED light therapy is non-invasive and non-ablative, and has such wonderful healing benefits (633nm in particular), intelligent professionals can exploit the synergy between LED Light therapy and other approaches, including conventional surgical procedures, IPL systems/fractional technologies, epidermal powder pells/chemical peels, non-ablative skin rejuvenation, vitamin iontophoresis, mesotherapy and other adjunctive epidermal treatments.

Sarah McGrath graduated on scholarship from Bond University in 2002 with a double degree in Commerce and International Business. With a background in accounting, marketing and management she entered the mainstream business world before deciding on a career change in 2008. After studying both in Queensland and London under the auspices of her friend and mentor Bonnie Sleep, Sarah set up her own clinic "Lumiere De Peau Skinlight", specialising in anti-ageing skin treatments using Light Therapy (noncontact IPL and LED) and Microcurrent.

Her experiences with the healing and skin rejuvenation benefits of red LED drove her to research other frequencies of LED technology. Omnilux technology was on the cutting edge of healing and anti-ageing protocols and used by some of the world's most renowned and skilled surgeons. Sarah is a Master Trainer for CACI Australia, incorporating LED and micro current technologies.

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starperformer ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Skeyndor's revolutionary Global Lift with ProGEN-in has created a real impact with salons as well as with consumers since its launch earlier this year. Targeting the skin at a cellular level, this amazing formulation is recognised as a breakthrough in the world of cellular anti-ageing. While excellent results can be achieved with the use of the Global Lift skincare line unaided by any technology, new studies have confirmed that results continue to improve when combined with various technologies such as the amazing MESOSCIECE by Skeyndor or Sorisa Photocare LED light technology and new-generation multifunctional Sorisa Accura treatment platform.

WHAT IS ACCURA? Accura is a multi-function device that combines several technologies in one compact device delivering five treatment combinations, including: ! High Frequency – Direct and Indirect electrodes ! Thermal High Frequency ! Microcurrent Lifting ! Electroporation This compact, yet highly effective unit offers unrivalled results at a highly affordable price.

WHAT IS PHOTOCARE AND WHAT IS IT USED FOR? Photocare by Sorisa is a unique device that delivers effective

Photocare uses the phototherapeutic effects of visible light from its LEDs to significantly stimulate Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP), which is the main energy molecule of the cell, improving the energy capacity of the cell and greatly improving skin quality and appearance. This process speeds up the metabolism, repairs cells and improves overall skin condition.

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WHAT IS PHOTOPORATION?

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Photoporation consists of temporarily opening micropores in the outermost layer of the skin and cell membrane using LED light from Photocare. These micropores enable the active ingredients in the transparent gel masks applied to the skin to pass through to the deeper layers of the skin where they can more effectively target cell regeneration.

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WHY FOUR DIFFERENT LED COLOURS? By utilising the option of four LED colours it is possible to offer more selective treatments and to achieve greater accuracy with regard to the depth where the effects are required. For example, by utilising blue light with a wavelength of 470nm acne symptoms can be improved as this light wavelength acts on the bacteria responsible for acne and stimulates the body's healing response.

WHY IS THE GEL MASK APPLIED DURING THE SESSION? Sorisa has an innovative approach to applying active ingredients to the skin. The gel-like mask is impregnated with active ingredients,

Anti-Ageing results never looked better

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phototherapy LED light through various colour spectrums, but also combines photoporation techniques in conjunction with cosmetics. It consists of a set of LED light screens (red, blue, green and white). The skin tissue exposed to the light with the appropriate wavelength uses the light energy to increase the synthesis of collagen and elastic fibres, obtaining a significant improvement in the quality and appearance of the skin. Effective treatments can benefit conditions of flaccidity, minimising wrinkles and expression lines, pigmentation, dehydration and oily and blemished skin.

making the cosmetic product easy to apply and remove. It is disposable and therefore guarantees a personalised and hygienic treatment. These masks are transparent, so highly effective results are obtained with the application of photoporation and phototherapy with Photocare. There are five different types of masks for an individualised treatment, as appropriate.

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HOW LONG DOES A SESSION LAST? Photocare sessions usually take around 50-60 minutes, including the

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Significant results can be seen after the initial session, thanks to the combined action of the abovementioned techniques. Treatments comprising an average of 12 sessions are generally recommended, as these give highly satisfactory results. Depending on each case, six maintenance sessions are recommended.

Photocare can be pre-programmed and used as a treatment for a variety of skin conditions, or as an add-on 20-minutes treatment with any facial or treatment series to optimise cellular regeneration and improve skin tone. Additionally, Photocare can deliver highly effective tooth whitening at the same time as a facial-rejuvenation treatment. Furthermore, it can be also used on any part of the body since the head is fully flexible. The head can deliver different colours on different parts of the face at the same time. Photocare is also suitable for photodynamic therapy.

IS THE TREATMENT PAINFUL?

TREATMENT OPTIONS

The treatment is not painful. The lights are fitted with fans that cool

Photocare offers several treatment options that are supported by various masks and active ingredients to deliver specific treatment

the skin, while providing a cool air that the client can breathe, preventing them from feeling hot and confined.

outcomes. These masks work in conjunction with the five pre-set Photocare programs. Developed by Sorisa's medical research team, the pre-set programs take the guesswork out of Photocare, enabling you to attend to other clients while the treatment is in progress. Thanks to Photocare's highly flexible head, treatment can be localised to any part of the face or body. The pre-set programs include:

preparation time and all the steps involved in its different programs.

On a FREE program, with 20 minutes for any single colour.

HOW MANY SESSIONS ARE NEEDED?

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The treatment is comfortable and relaxing, while achieving deep skin penetration. Photocare emits LED light at specific wavelengths. It combines exposure sequences and durations on different areas of the face, delivering fast, long-lasting and comfortable treatments that can improve most common facial problems. The deep penetrating therapeutic effects of the LED light further complements and enhances other treatment results such as laser or micro-needling.

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Softening of expression lines and wrinkles: This program utilises the stimulating and vasodilatory effects of near-infrared light. This is

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epidermolytic effects of glycolic acid. These encourage the keratinocytes to detach, leading to skin peeling which, in turn, promotes the growth of new skin.

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Oily skin Treatment: The 470nm blue light emitted by

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then combined and alternated with the toning, revitalising effects of yellow and green/magenta light that further stimulates the synthesis of collagen. By applying the WrinkleCare mask, whose main ingredient is acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline), neurotransmitter release is significantly inhibited in the neuromuscular junction, which mimics the effect of botulinum toxin and prevents the muscle contractions that cause expression lines.

Photocare acts on the bacteria that cause acne, while helping to stimulate the body's healing response. Photocare light treatments ensure that sufficient light energy is emitted to reach a depth of 2mm (dermis), where the bacteria responsible for acne are found. This process activates collagen production, generating a molecular variant of oxygen, which helps to destroy these bacteria. Bacterial activity is reduced, acne inflammation decreases and the general condition of the skin improves as a result of this process. The oily skin treatment mode, when combined with the BlueCare cosmetic, contributes to decrease the proliferation of the bacteria and the inflammation.

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Facial firming: Photocare combines red and yellow light emission, which have vasodilatory and toning effects, with green/magenta, which activates the enzymes, revitalises and repairs. A synergic effect is triggered when it is used in combination with the LiftCare mask, which contains elastin, a structural protein of the extracellular matrix. Local application softens the rough texture of the skin, increasing hydration and restoring elasticity to the skin tissues.

Hydration and texture improvement: Near-infrared light is

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used for its stimulating, vasodilatory effects and is alternated with yellow and green/magenta for a toning, decongestant and revitalising effect. We complete the repair process by applying the HydroCare mask, which contains vitamins A, C & E as well as hyaluronic acid. Vitamin E is an antioxidant and hyaluronic acid has powerful skin-moisturising properties that are beneficial for preventing wrinkles.

Tooth whitening is also available as an added option.

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Removal of blemishes and pigmentation lesions: Photocare combines the emission of green light for its enzyme activation effects with the emission of yellow light for its toning effects. The revitalising effect of the light is enhanced with the LightCare mask, whose main components include arbutin, vitamin A (retinol), vitamin C and glycolic acid. These vitamins have been combined with the

PHOTOCARE improves all aspects of the skin, stimulates and activates metabolic function in skin cells, activates fibroblast cells to produce collagen and elastin, regenerates and stimulates collagen, decreases depth of lines and wrinkles, heals blemishes, improves skin tone, restores the skin's natural cellular collagen activity, reduces sun-damage, increases moisture levels, intensifies circulation, fades pigmentation, promotes nutrition within the skin and provides a healthier skin tone.

SKEYNDOR GLOBAL LIFT and SORISA's Accura and Photocare offer unsurpassed groundbreaking results and deliver on their promise.

Phone VOGUE IMAGE GROUP ON 1800 554 545, Ph: 03 9821 0033, info@vogueimage.com.au or visit www.vogueimage.com.au

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REVOLUTIONISE YOUR TREATMENTS

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with the power of synergy using the latest equipment technology, skincare and proven protocols to achieve unbeatable, lasting treatment outcomes every time

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By SKEYNDOR

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ACCURA

- multifunctional technology

PHOTOCARE

Advanced LED and Photoporation

By SORISA

MORE FOCUSED, MORE TARGETED, NEW PROTOCOLS OUTSTANDING PROFESSIONAL RESULTS Let Vogue Image show you how you can be the BEST IN THE INDUSTRY

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Contact Vogue Image Group 1800 554 545 | info@vogueimage.com.au

industryreport ㄰ 㤵 㜵

of these tactics from a recent study I have undertaken to share with the industry.

In this report I will present three key areas:

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A brief overview on the aesthetic industry and what is driving change here in Australia A brief summary of key global predictions in skincare and technology and discuss how these may affect you and how to best prepare for these changes Strategy and what is strategic intent and how to use these tools to navigate through the challenges you may be facing.

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INDUSTRY OVERVIEW AND WHAT IS HAPPENING IN AUSTRALIA If we take a brief walk through the history of the aesthetic industry we will note that in its infancy it started with what was termed “Cosmetology”. What that represented was

UPDATE ON INDUSTRY CHANGES and the power of Strategic Intent in helping you be the WINNER

By Tina Viney This is an industry report and I am basing some of the information from my lecture that I presented at the APAN conference in Adelaide in May. As there were several lectures that presented technical information, my lecture presented conceptual issues that pertained to our industry.

There is something very powerful in occasionally taking a back seat and viewing the global perspective of the changes that are happening around the world in order to gain insight on what is about to happen and more importantly, determining how will you position yourself to be best prepared as a leader in your field and as a well-positioned business owner.

Statistically, Australia does not have the budgets to assess in great detail industry trends and consumer spending. As an organisation APAN does conduct its own surveys and researches and assesses industry activities through our own various mechanisms and observations as do other industry groups. However, there are large global research companies that invest millions of dollars in determining consumer trends, as well as spending and changes to consumer preferences. They have the budgets to do this because they advise large manufacturers and skincare companies. Much of these statistical findings contribute to the development of new technologies and product formulations. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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In my capacity as APAN's Chief Executive Officer I consider it my responsibility to connect with the largest research companies in the world in order to gain the global perspective of shifts and changes that will ultimately affect us here in Australia. On a daily basis I spend approximately three hours researching and reviewing reports, so to a certain extent this is part of my expertise that allows me to confidently advise the industry on what is about to happen and how to best prepare for changes. Part of any effective strategic plan is to be correctly prepared, and much of strategy and strategic intent actually comes from military tactics. In fact, all wars have been won due to well executed plans based on strategic intent, and I have drawn from some

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the basic grooming tasks such as cleansing toning, moisturising and a mask once a week and, of course, the application of makeup.

From there it evolved over the past 40 years in activities that looked at correct cleansing and restoring the pH balance of the skin, supporting the skin's lost moisture through hydrating products, sun protection, improving overall texture and the feel of the skin, providing a good facial that will benefit the skin and relax the client, and also included are other grooming services such as waxing, tinting, makeup and, of course, body massage manicures and pedicure.

In recent years skin therapy has moved to more advanced procedures that are corrective in their intent and offer a more focused approach to anti-ageing. Education has played a great role in supporting these shifts, so let's look at what formal education offers: In the current Beauty Training Package key units cover basic anatomy and physiology of the skin and body, histology of the skin, basic skin types and classification and basic skin disorders. Skin analysis at this level looks at texture, colour, tone and lesions, but from a surface manifestation point of view and for the purpose of managing and controlling these manifestations. Training does not include looking at the skin at an in-depth cellular level. A certificate IV or Diploma in Beauty Therapy, which were once at the peak of qualifications, are now considered mid-level qualifications with the introduction of Advanced Diplomas that sit at Level 6 and Vocational Graduate Certificates, which are considered post-graduate qualifications at levels 7 or 8.

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With emerging new technologies we now have some amazing tools that allow us to address the skin and its needs at a much deeper level.

Whereas before a beauty therapist would identify broken capillaries and try to soothe and calm the skin, the advanced aesthetic or dermal therapists would now ask the questions,“Why are the broken capillaries there in the first place, what caused them? What is really

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happening inside the cells and how did this condition come about?” By getting answers to these questions a therapist can now offer more sustainable results and possibly address what caused of the problem in the first place. The shift has now moved to “corrective” skin procedures that help to solve problems so that a higher level of result can be achieved.

There is a growing number of aestheticians who trained many years ago who are allowing the knowledge and experience to give them the confidence to evolve their services to include the more advanced treatments. However, they are now going to compete with the new breed of therapist who has been formally trained differently to the way they were. As an example let's look at what some advanced training programs are now offering.

Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science (52320) as delivered by the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science – let's look at some of the unit descriptions and what they offer in terms of skills and knowledge:

1.2 Dermal Science Human Biology Dermal Science Human Biology provides students with an extension of their underpinning knowledge in human anatomy and physiology while providing a foundation for further studies in dermal science. This unit explores each organ system in relation to skin health and appearance enabling students to investigate the causative factors of physiological and pathological skin changes/diseases.

Throughout this unit there is a strong focus on how environmental factors, genetics, intrinsic ageing and endocrine changes affect the histological and visual qualities of the skin.

2.2 Dermal Science Practical Workshops Dermal Science Practical is a hands-on unit in which students transfer their theoretical knowledge into clinical practice. 1. (case studies) in the 3 grades of microdermabrasion, AHA peels, Jessner's Peels, superficial TCA peels, IPL photo rejuvenation and permanent hair reduction and skin needling. These competencies ensure students develop a high standard of technique while maintaining a strong focus on hygiene and safety.

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2.4 Cosmeceutical Science Cosmeceutical science will significantly enhance the therapist's knowledge of over-the-counter cosmeceuticals and prescription pharmaceuticals used in dermatology. This knowledge is beneficial in order to effectively treat common skin concerns and complement cosmetic surgery and/or dermal therapy procedures. This unit provides an evidence-based approach to specific cosmeceutical ingredients as opposed to branded formulas.

Bachelor of Health Science Dermal Therapies – Victoria University This is a degree program that includes a more in-depth and advanced level of knowledge and qualification. Briefly some of the units include: Dermal Science, Nutrition for dermal care, Wound healing, Electrotherapy, Advanced health research, Dermal professional practice, Resurfacing science, Advanced laser and light, Post-operative micropigmentation and Independent research.

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In the fourth year units includes such topics as Plastic and reconstructive procedures, Dermal clinical practice, Advanced laser light and Independent research.

Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) A new degree will soon be available through the MHM Institute of Higher Learning that will be offering both an Associate Degree and a Degree in Clinical Aesthetics. This program will build on existing formal qualifications offered by other institutions with additional advanced units, including Therapeutic Interventions 1 and 2, Pathophysiology, Wellness and Antiageing and numerous units in Clinical Skin Therapies.

At a higher learning level or Degree Qualification the graduate is trained to look at the skin more closely and better understand its deficiencies, what caused them and how they can be corrected. This approach does not limit the client treatment outcomes to the services of one practitioner, but also includes effective interfacing with other healthcare practitioners at a more professional level that is more interactive and not just confined to referrals.

Advanced aesthetics now requires that you ask more questions – a lot more questions, but also look at the skin at a cellular level. For example, consider pigmentation. You are now required to investigate at what cellular level is the pigmentation based, what caused it and how severe it is before your can determine the appropriate treatment tools and options.

Additionally, to achieve the kind of results that consumers are looking for we are now required to also look not just at the skin, but also more laterally at what therapies through adjourning disciplines will be needed to contribute to the best possible results. These may include a regenerative medical practitioner who may look at digestion, hormonal/endocrine issues or inflammation that will need to be addressed.

You may also need to work with a dermatologist or other healthcare professionals.

More and more dermal and aesthetics therapists are also attending medical conferences such as the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing

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DHEA (Dehydroepiandrosterone) is a natural hormone synthesised by the adrenal glands from cholesterol. By correcting deficiencies in this hormone the skin discretely increases production of sebaceous matter, improving skin hydration as well as attenuating age spots. All my life I have suffered from extremely dry skin.

Having identified a DHEA deficiency I now take the recommended doses as prescribed by my regenerative medical doctor and my skin has substantially improved from the excessive dryness I once suffered from.

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Each hormone deficiency offers different skin manifestations. By being able to identify these you can direct that person to a physician who specialises in regenerative medicine and assist your client to gain not only better health, but also improve your skincare results, and at the very least support the longevity of your treatments. Untreated inflammation can speed up the ageing process and will subs tantially undermine your skin treatment results.

The A5M conference presented lectures based on scientific evidence-based research on a whole spectrum of topics from the latest in genetics, nutrition, successful weight-loss strategies as well as anti-ageing procedures. Why wouldn't you attend?

Medicine (A5M), with whom APAN has a formal alliance. At the recent Cosmetex there were over 80 lectures, as well as a paramedical lecture stream that was well attended. What these platforms offer you is the global perspective, and as an aesthetic professional you will need to network with other experts.

So you might say why should I pay all this money and go to a medical conference? I am not a doctor and I most likely cannot practise what I learn? OK, so here are a few thoughts on how you can benefit.

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Let's look at the A5M Conference that looks at regenerative and antiageing medicine. We know that ageing is the result of low-level inflammation? However, what causes inflammation in the body and how can this be minimised? Are there hormonal issues, toxicity or other systemic imbalances that may not be at present symptomatic as a disease, but are still speeding the ageing process and compromising the individual's quality of life and ultimately their health?

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Do you know how hormones affect the skin? Did you know that as oestrogen levels drop collagen and elastin production decreases, causing the skin to get dry and lose its elasticity. Did you know that the loss of oestrogen impacts ageing skin far more quickly than even sun damage.

What about Cosmetex, which is staged by the Australian Society of Cosmetic Surgeons. I attended this event and what I learned was amazing. Incidentally I did not attend any of the paramedical lectures – I only attended lectures on techniques in surgery, injectables and new technologies, as I wanted to capture changes in techniques and new concepts in what constitutes a beautiful face. In this area I observed a definite shift in appearance enhancement in favour of the natural look.

The new trends and techniques are now focusing with greater detail on measuring features and using much less injectable solutions, whether muscle relaxants or fillers that create a fresh look. The focus is on balance rather than over-lifting or over-plumping that gives perhaps a little more glamour, but at the same time an obviously enhanced or altered look to what that person originally looked like. The issue of over-volumising was identified in the long-term to ultimately contribute to ageing the individual, whereas the very natural enhancement approach ensures that the patient still looks like themself only fresher and more youthful without any evidence of enhancement. The shift is now more about correction than it is about enhancement. This was presented right across the board throughout most of the presentations.

So is this a threat to the aesthetic or dermal therapist? Not at all. With the advanced protocols, products, techniques and procedures the aesthetic therapist has a chance of competing for such results. What we couldn't compete is with is the over-plumped lips and exaggerated eyebrows or over-volumised cheeks.

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What did I get from this? I was greatly encouraged because I realised that the role of the dermal therapist and aesthetician will continue to be crucial in helping to improve skin texture, enhancing elasticity, minimising dullness and pigmentation and improving skin immunity and overall skin health and appearance.

While injectables have their place, a well-hydrated skin with good lymphatic drainage and a well-nourished blood supply will still remain within the aesthetician's domain and still offer great value.

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A healthy skin texture and tone, protocols that stimulate collagen synthesis and support a pH balanced epidermis will continue to remain vitally important to a more youthful end result. The new multi-disciplinarian approach using various equipment technologies, trans-epidermal delivery systems, stress management, detoxification and nutritional protocols will substantially not only support a more youthful appearance through their own merits, but can be a valuable adjunct to the longevity and overall improvement to injectable and surgical procedures. Sue Carroll demonstrated this, in the article on her salon pages 76-77.

We can, and should, work together for better client outcomes in this new era and the evolving definitions of what constitutes appearance enhancement. But I would not have come to this conclusion had I not attended this event or for that matter, the A5M Conference. Both these conferences provided me with substantial information on how we can best network and interface our procedures with those of healthcare professionals and streamline them for the level of client/patient outcomes that consumers are now seeking.

At our own APAN conference some amazing information on nutrigenomics was presented from Dr Christine Houghton that can potentially change the way we support the skin's detoxification process and enhance its nutritional profile. On a technical level Gay

Wardle's amazing knowledge on the integration of new science and education to improve treatment parameters was also invaluable, particularly for those who perform IPL and Laser treatments.

I encourage everyone who wishes to implement the clinical approach to seriously consider investing in formal qualifications and training.

Other than those I have referenced above check out Fuss College in Sydney, which also offers advanced qualifications, Beauty Therapy Training Australia on the Gold Coast, AKISS College in Brisbane.

They all have distant learning tools for theory component to their training.

We are currently working with these colleges for the purpose of the National Workforce Development Fund (NWDF), the government funding co-contribution to assist for salons and their staff to upgrade their qualifications in the Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL/Laser Hair Reduction.

GLOBAL PREDICTIONS IN SKINCARE AND TECHNOLOGY SKINCARE So what is happening in the area of skincare formulations? Don't let anyone fool you that your work is only about procedures. Skincare is undoubtedly the most technologically advanced and fastest-moving category in the beauty industry. According to global research companies in 2011, the category had an estimated value of $86bn, which is forecast to increase to a staggering $102bn by 2015. This is being fuelled by breakneck growth in emerging markets, alongside continuing demand for natural and anti-ageing products in developed markets. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Big rewards await those who can capture the imagination of consumers, and as professionals we have to understand that while our treatments offer great results, consumable items such as innovative skincare is what drives clients or patients to us in the first place. Let's face it – it is the cosmetic user who looks in the mirror every time they apply a cream and says, “Ah, I would like to get rid of this pigmentation, these pimples or these lines or wrinkles,” and then seeks solutions for them. While they come to us for results, they need to also take home what will ultimately support the skin and the results we are attempting to achieve for their benefit.

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However, strategy is not about mechanical manoeuvres.

Regardless of the area of endeavour the key to any successful strategy is an overall sense of mission, what experts call strategic intent.

Far from an empty exercise, crafting a clear and meaningful mission statement shapes the entire strategic plan process.

On the 20th June I attended a webinar over several hours that presented the future direction of the cosmetic industry. Critical information of this event will be presented at the APAN Sydney Conference on Monday 26th August at the same time as the Sydney Beauty Expo.

representing 81% of the market. Consumers, it seems, do not want to get old and they are starting much younger in this quest as early as their late 20s.

Body care – is picking up with 16% growth as consumer demand of In a nutshell here are the shifts that consumer global surveys have given us on market drivers.

quality performance products for toning, cellulite and slimming continues to grow.

Naturally-derived performance ingredients – consumers are now

Hand care – this category has experienced a 3% increase, however, I

gravitating to bio-technology. They want ingredients that are as natural as possible and are looking for key ingredients they can recognise as a preference to their choice of product.

believe that hand rejuvenation is going to be the next trend, as we are now seeing injectable volumising hand treatments.

Men's skincare – is also seeing a steady growth, with men seeking Cosmeceuticals and Anti-ageing products – are still the predominant leader with the highest growth in the skincare category,

their own ranges that offer multi-functional benefits, uncomplicated, but with serious ingredients to protect, hydrate and improve their skin and wellbeing. Men are no long likely to settle for a female product – they want their own skincare.

NEW TERMINOLOGY Individualism – consumers are seeking out products to cater to their

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exclusive needs and desires. They now want the right and freedom to choose as individuals – self-realisation is a growing trend. They are also looking for Adaptive ingredients, all in the one concept. There is a growing trends for products to be accessed that meet the individual's needs made easy through multi-factional products such as BB creams that are anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, lifting and toning, sun-protective and even provide cover as a foundation. Consumers are attracted to products that offer several benefits in the one product rather than having lots of products. Ranges will decrease, but functionality will increase.

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Intelligent moisturisation – we are going to see amazing new formulations that provide much better functionality in improving and optimising skin moisture levels that have the ability to maintain these levels throughout the day. They will be able to regulate water-loss, they will be temperature and humidity responsive to suit changes in climate variations, visibly improving skin dryness and offering protection and long-lasting hydration throughout the day.

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Sensification – this is another interesting emerging term.

Consumers want to also feel good when using a skincare, they now want a multi-sensory experience with textural awareness that is hitting all five senses and can bring enhanced pleasure through their use. The surveys indicated that consumers are gravitating to products that provide both results and pleasure – the total experience. More and more we are going to see product formulators introducing innovative ways to make their skincare feel amazing and pleasurable to use, while also not falling short on results.

HAND-HELD DEVICES We can expect to see a huge influx of hand-held devices as manufacturers go neck-to-neck to compete with each other to gain the consumer dollar. Many large retail skincare companies such as Procter and Gamble who produce Olay are currently partnering with device manufacturers to introduce at-home electronic beauty devices as companions to their skincare. These devices will aim at ensuring customers are guided to identify the right product to purchase from their range. This is also part of the “individualism” trend of giving the power of choice back to the consumer, which is what they are looking for. These devices will include skin analysers to view skin condition below visible levels, microcurrent and portable at home versions built around light-based lasers and fractional technology to stimulate collagen product, target discolouration and improve skin texture.

Some of these companies are touting that these devices will rival salon results. One report stated that “The fact that individuals can carry out the treatment in the comfort of their home at a fraction of the price it might cost them in a salon taps into the trend that more and more consumers are switching from having expensive professional beauty treatments to carrying them out personally at home.”

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This trend is definitely a threat, but one that we cannot stop – it's called progress. What we can do is increase our knowledge and expertise and learn more about how the technologies we are using compare in terms of strength and capabilities from the hand-held versions. As consumers become more educated you need to remain one step ahead of them. Learn about the technology you are using and provide your clients with credible information on what your device can deliver over the hand-held device. Incorporate various pre and post-treatment protocols to enhance results through a multi-disciplinarian approach using various technologies to enhance results – microneedling, laser, LED, but gain the right education to explain to your clients how this approach can deliver deeper and longer-lasting treatment results, while their home device can help support those results.

Another consideration is that as consumers become familiar with technologies they will come to expect them also in the salon or clinic.

Equipment is therefore here to stay, so become educated and familiar with your professional options to ensure what you provide can rival anything your client may be using at home.

STRATEGY AND STRATEGIC INTENT So how can strategy and strategic intent help us win the war of competition and survival? Strategic thinking is about unraveling the mysteries of the chaotic world around us and harnessing powerful forces to our own end. It means utilising tools of analysis and tactics to take decisive and prudent action that gives us the best possible chance of achieving our objective – whether those objectives are professional or how to ensure our business will succeed.

If you really want to study effective strategic manoeuvers you need to study some of the great wars. I have just complete a 26 week study on this subject and found it most fascinating. At the core of strategic thinking lies the ability to make timely decision and take appropriate action to move forward. In order that our businesses are successful we need to constantly evaluate the external and the internal environment and modify our strategy according to our arising needs. Effective strategic intent is first about your purpose, and then what you need to put in place to get to where you want to be.

For example, take some of the global trends that we have just looked at and ask yourself – am I positioned correctly to deliver and meet on these consumer trends? Am I too focused on treatments and losing

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potential income through appropriate skincare sales? Do my products suit the demands of my demographics? Can I confidently promote my naturally derived performance ingredients. Are my products effective yet also pleasurable to use? Do they offer intelligent moisturisation? Are they multi-functional? Do I need to change the way I speak about my products to reflect what research is saying consumers are looking for? Do I need to change my product because it no longer delivers what my clients are looking for and willing to pay for?

However, strategy is not about mechanical manoeuvres. Regardless of the area of endeavour the key to any successful strategy is an overall sense of mission, what experts call strategic intent. Far from an empty exercise, crafting a clear and meaningful mission statement shapes the entire strategic plan process.

However, the mission should be driving the strategy and only then will you achieve the outcome that reflects your most heartfelt convictions. At the end of the day you have to believe in what you do and what you stand for so that you can gain the courage to persevere, because success is more about passionate commitment, stickability and consistency and less about luck. Richard Branson recently said on Linkedin at a university graduation ceremony. “The best advice I could give any graduate is to spend your time working on whatever you are passionate about in life. If your degree was focused upon one particular area, don't let that stop you moving in another direction. If college hasn't worked out for you, don't let that put you off. Virgin's expansion into so many different areas is borne out of my insatiable curiosity to enjoy new experiences and pursue fresh challenges that are driven by my sense of purpose and conviction.”

In today's competitive environment we need to be prudent by recognising what no longer works and have the courage to give it up for new and better ways. Most of the failed businesses I see have a lot to do with procrastination and the fear of letting go what once worked for them but is no longer working today.

Successful strategy is dynamic, adaptive and opportunistic, and it

depends on the swift, bold and decisive execution of tactics. Change, is at the core of moving forward as we are living in a constantly changing world that does not allow us the luxury of standing still – for too long at least.

And in closing let me leave you some thoughts that I think are very important. You may be the best practitioner or even a great visionary, but in business you will not succeed until you learn to inspire others with your vision and transfer to others your passion in what you stand for. While the right words are important in communicating, this takes more than a lovely statement on a piece of paper. Convincing others of the significance of your vision requires the reflection of credibility and conviction on your part. You need to live the inspiration before you can effectively inspire and reflect it in others.

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To do this you need to look after yourself and not burn yourself to the ground where you are no long effective for your own good, let alone for others. Psychologist and author Dr Larry Crabb puts it this way: “A vision that is delivered with passion and conviction allows other, to realise what they can also become by embracing these values, especially when they echo what is also in their soul.”

The power of such a vision can convince people to join you in the pursuit of what you believe in and what to achieve, and this will greatly enhance your chances for success. There is an interesting mathematical dynamic in the Bible that says “One can put a thousand to flight, but two can put 10 thousand to flight”. This scripture teaches the power of synergy. When others get sold and involved in your vision you will accomplish more than you ever dreamt of.

And another thing, good leaders don't achieve success on their own.

They usually succeed because of the people who are standing with them in support and contribution. So ask yourself, do I have a good support structure that can offer me the kind of help and inspiration I need? If the answer is “I could do with some help then maybe APAN can offer you valuable professional help and support. Don't forget, we are also here to stand with you and help you achieve the success you are aiming for.

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Distribution of flagella may cover the whole surface of bacterial cells in distinguishing patterns, although basically flagella are either polar (where they protrude from one or both ends of the cell) or they are peritrichous (where lateral flagella is distributed over the entire cell surface).

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DIFFERENT TYPES OF BACTERIA

THE TENACITY OF BACTERIA Understanding the anatomy and physiology of how bacteria are formed and survive

COCCI BACTERIA – are spherical or round in shape, they can occur as a single cell (coccus), as pairs (diplococci), in clusters (streptococci) or in chains (staphylococci).

By Gay Wardle

Bacteriology is the study of bacteria and is a subdivision of microbiology – a branch of science dealing with the study of microorganisms. These microorganisms include bacteria, viruses and fungi. Understanding the fundamentals of bacteriology is becoming increasingly more important with the rise in antibiotic resistance, emerging infectious disease, rapid advances in biotechnology and environmental pollution.

Studying microbiology can be daunting because you must learn many technical terms and become familiar with a huge variety of microorganisms. However, gaining a basic understanding of the various types of bacteria and their function is useful to the aesthetics industry as it reinforces why infection-control practices are so important for the health of the skin and indeed the survival of the individual. Bacteria are invisible, yet powerful, causing transmission of disease. In this article Gay Wardle lays a foundation on the various types of bacteria, their physiology and function.

Most bacteria are able to survive and reproduce independently under a wide range of environmental conditions. There are thousands of species of bacteria, which can be differentiated on the basis of size, shape morphology, staining characteristics, nutritional requirements, biochemical activities, cell wall structure and the composition of their RNA and DNA.

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A bacterial cell has essential structural components that are chromosome (DNA), ribosomes, cell membrane and the cell wall.

They vary significantly in their size and shape.

Bacteria cells that are capable of movement are called flagella.

Bacterial flagella are helically shaped structures containing the protein flagellin, which are attached to the cells’ surface. The base of the flagellum (the hook) near the cell surface is attached to the basal body enclosed in the cell envelope. The flagellum rotates in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction, in a motion similar to that of a propeller that allows the cell to have a swimming movement.

BACILLI – are rod-shaped or shaped like a cylinder. Most of the time these bacteria appear as single cells (bacillus).

SPIROCHAETES, SPIRILLA AND VIBRIOS – are spiral bacteria that have three different forms Spirochaetes, which look like a corkscrew, Spirilla, still in the shape of a corkscrew, but with a looser appearance, and Vibrios, which are slightly curved rod-shaped cells.

Although most bacteria develop with characteristic shapes that help with identification, the size of the cell depends on the source of nutrients that is available.

The most characteristic structure of bacteria is the cell wall, which is an essential structure for viability. The cell wall is one of the most important sites for attack by antibiotics, as it provides ligands for adherence and receptor sites for drugs and viruses. The cell wall also provides immunological distinction and immunological variation among strains of bacteria. Most bacteria have a cell wall that has a rigid structure, which protects the cell protoplast from mechanical damage and from osmotic rupture or lysis. Bacteria usually live in dilute environments where the accumulation of solutes inside the cell cytoplasm greatly exceeds the solute concentration in the outside environment.

MUREIN The osmotic pressure against the inside of the plasma membrane may be the equivalent of 10-25 atmospheres. Bacterial murein is a unique type of peptidoglycan that is a polymer of sugars, which are crosslinked by short chains of amino acids. All bacterial peptidoglycans contain acetylmuramic acid, which is the definitive component of murein.

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GRAM-POSITIVE AND GRAM-NEGATIVE When looking at the composition of the cell wall, most bacteria can be placed into two groups, which are Gram-negative or Gram-positive.

Gram-positive – have a well-defined cell wall structure, which determines their reaction in the staining procedure. The Gram stain procedure contains a distaining step where the cells are washed with

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an acetone-alcohol mixture. The lipid content of the Gram-negative wall affects the outcome of this step, so that Gram-positive cells retain a primary stain where Gram-negative cells are destained.

Gram-positive – retain a crystal violet colour in the Gram-stain procedure. They are bound by a single unit lipid membrane where they generally contain a thick layer of peptidoglycan, which is responsible for retaining the Gram-stain.

A Gram-positive bacteria – has numerous different peptide arrangements among peptidoglycans where there is an occurrence of an interpeptide bridge of amino acids that connect nearby side chains to one another. Teichoic acids, which are polysaccharides, attach themselves to the peptidoglycan. This is the main component of Gram-positive cell walls that create a negative charge that influences the passage of materials in and out of the cell.

Gram-positive bacteria – are more sensitive to penicillin because the peptidoglycan is not protected by an outer membrane and it is a more abundant molecule.

Gram-negative – have a more complex outer structure than that of Gram-positive bacteria. The cell wall consists of a much thinner layer of peptidoglycan, which is covered by an outer membrane. This outer membrane contains lipopolysaccharide, which is toxic to animals.

This outer membrane is considered part of the cell wall in a Gramnegative bacteria. The peptidoglycan molecule can be cleaved by an enzyme called lysozyme, which is present in tissues, secretions and phagocyte granules. Lysozyme function is to rupture bacterial cells as a defence against bacterial pathogens.

Gram-positive bacteria are very sensitive to lysozyme and the enzyme is quite active at low concentrations, whereas Gram-negative are less vulnerable to attack by lysozyme because their peptidoglycan is shielded by the outer membrane.

Because of this outer membrane in Gram-negative bacteria they have a general resistance to antibiotics (the opposite to Gram-positive bacteria).

passage of substances into the cell and out of the cell. It controls the life in the cytoplasm, separating it from the outside environment.

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A bacterial plasma membrane allows passage of water and smaller uncharged molecules into the interior of the cell, but it does not allow passage of larger molecules or charged substances, except when monitored by proteins in the membrane called transport systems.

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The presence of transport systems in the membranes allows the bacteria to accumulate solutes and chemical precursors of cell material inside their cytoplasm at concentrations, which exceed the concentrations in the environment. Be mindful that environment bacteria live in a diluted environment, where the concentrations of molecules are greater inside the cell than it is outside the cell.

Therefore bacteria cells must transport their nutrients from the environment and maintain a higher concentration of solutes inside the cell than outside the cell.

The most important transport system of a bacteria cell is active transport, where there is a requirement for energy and concentrated substances inside of the cell. These active transport systems are mediated by proteins in the membrane called carrier proteins, which are very specific for the substances that will be transported.

Bacteria cells do not have intracellular organelles that produce energy, they are conducted through the cytoplasmic membrane, which is very different to other cells where organelles within the cell produces the energy.

BACTERIA AND POLARITY An electron transport system operates by establishing a pH gradient across the membrane by an accumulation of protons outside and hydroxyl ion inside. When this happens the outside is acidic and the inside is alkaline. Therefore the outer part of the membrane becomes charged positive, while the inner part becomes charge negative, creating a membrane with a positive and a negative side just like a battery. This creates active transport in and out of cell. Like the cell wall, the plasma membrane is a vital part of the cell life and is very susceptible to becoming damaged.

STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF BACTERIA The structural integrity of bacterial cells is reliant upon the cell wall remaining intact.

Any substance that can break the cell wall, as in penicillin, will destroy the bacteria.

There are very few strains of bacteria that can live without a cell wall.

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Just underneath the cell wall is where we find the plasma membrane. This plasma membrane has a similar structure in all cells, including bacterial cells, where it has a double layer of phospholipid molecule (phospholipid bilayer).

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The difference with a bacterial plasma membrane is that there are 60% proteins and 40% phospholipid, whereas other cell plasma membrane contain sterols and carbohydrates as well as protein and lipids.

The plasma membranes is a very dynamic structure within the cell. The primary function of the plasma membrane is that it is a permeability barrier that regulates the

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APJ 59

JYUNKA

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No Empty Promises

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Reduced Fine Lines, Wrinkles and Crows feet

In summary bacterial plasma membranes synthesise cell wall components, regulate cellular respiration and synthesis of ATP and secrete proteins and enzymes that are released from the cell itself.

The cytoplasm of bacterial cells consists of an aqueous solution with a mixture of protein, lipids, carbohydrates and salts. The primary structural components found in the cytoplasm are the nucleoid, ribosomes and there could be some type of inclusion. The cytoplasm is more of a gel substance than that of other cells.

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Sagging Skin –

GONE

Eye Bags –

GONE

Large Pores –

GONE

Oily Skin –

GONE

Pimples and Acne –

GONE

The nucleoid is one large circular molecule of DNA and is free in the cytoplasm, although it can be coiled and anchored by proteins. This is the genetic control centre of the cell that determines all the properties and functions of the bacteria cell and sometimes the cell will have extra pieces of DNA called plasmids. Plasmids will replicate independently of the main DNA, although replication of bacterial DNA is coordinated by the plasma membrane and proteins in the cytoplasm.

Ribosomes are composed of proteins and RNA and are responsible for the granular appearance of bacteria cytoplasm. Ribosomes in bacterial cells are smaller than ribosomes in other cells and they are involved in the process of protein synthesis.

Firmer, Youthful-Looking Skin – YES

Inclusion granules are often contained in the cytoplasm of bacteria cells and they are distinct granules that may occupy a substantial part of the cytoplasm.

Radiance and Glow without Reflectors – YES

Inclusion granules are usually reserve materials and some inclusion bodies are actually membranous vesicles or intrusions into the cytoplasm, which contain photosynthetic pigments or enzymes.

Stunning, Flawless Beautiful Skin – YES

When a bacterial structure sometimes observed as an inclusion is actually a type of dormant cell called an endospore. Endospores exhibit no signs of life and are described as being cryptobiotic. They are usually Gram-positive bacilli, but not always. They are highly resistant to environmental stresses such as high temperature (some endospores can be boiled for hours and retain their viability), irradiation, strong acids, disinfectants, etc. They are probably the most durable cell produced in nature, retaining viability indefinitely and under extreme environmental conditions can germinate back into vegetative cells. They can germinate and become vegetative cells when the environmental stress is relieved. Endospore formation is a mechanism of survival rather than a mechanism of reproduction.

One Serum, One Application.

PERMANENT RESULTS – OH YES

Classification of bacteria cells includes spore formation, cell wall structure, Gram-stain, shape, motility and biochemical properties and includes information obtained from the composition of the DNA and ribosomal RNA. It is very difficult to isolate because there are mixtures of normal flora, invading pathogen, blood, sputum and pus in most samples. Agar plates are used to grow and cultivate single colonies for easier identification.

CONCLUSION

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In reviewing the physiology of bacteria and how resistant they are in their survival allows us to understand the importance of infection control and prevention of disease throughout our practices.

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REFERENCES ㈵

JYUNKA AUSTRALIA Phone 03 9821 0355 email: enquiry@jyunka.com.au, www.jyunka.com.au

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Lee G., & Bishop P., (2006) Microbiology 3rd Edition Todar K., Bacteriology Dermatology (2004) Rodriguez-Carmona E., (2010) Microbial Cell Webster P., (2006) Cytoplasmic Bacteria

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Advance your knowledge and education to a higher level. MDA is now offering Post-Graduate courses to empower you for greater treatment results and business growth.

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With the advances in new equipment and skincare technology, heightened awareness by consumers and the collaboration between professional aesthetics and medical and anti-ageing practices there is now the need for education and specialised Post-Graduate training to support and deliver higher levels of expertise and advanced results.

Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS PROGRAM in 2011 to equip and empower you to make the transition with greater confidence into the realm of advanced treatment protocols for greater treatment outcomes.

Gay Wardle is without question today's leading and most influential educator in Australia. Winner of over 12 industry and business awards, she has a strong understanding of the aesthetics industry and the elements that are necessary for a successful salon or aesthetic practice.

Constantly investing in her own education and knowledge, she is not only passionate about training but simultaneously is undertaking a Bachelor's qualification with Victoria University.

MASTERCLASSES IN DERMAL TRAINING INCLUDE: ! One-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Two-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Three-day Journey to Understand and Empower your ! ! !

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New Research findings on

The role of the SKIN'S pH

By Terry Everitt You know about skin and pH, yet did you ever stop to think about what makes this pH of the skin and where it comes from? Did you know what you think you know about the subject may be incorrect? In this article Terry Everitt gets down into the skin and explains many points about pH and skin and contests the often made claim that the skin is at pH 5.5.

As you are aware, the skin has many functions, many of which are from the role of the epidermis. One of these roles is protection from chemical, microbial and climatic assault. Two of the main protection measures are the physical and chemical state of the epidermal stratums. Of the chemical, the most important is the so called 'acid mantle'.

The acid mantle is composed of a number of individual components collectively termed the NMF (natural moisturising factor); chemicals such as urea, PCA, urocanic acid and lactate, which themselves come from difference sources such as perspiration, keratinocyte breakdown and sebum. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

WHAT NEW STUDIES REVEAL Science has known of the skin’s acidic state since 1892, when Heuss first published his work in a German dermatological publication.

Since then a number of studies (Blank 1939, Ohman and Vahlquist 1994, Zlotogorski 1995, Barel et al 2001, Boelsma et al 2003) have been published (with multiple variables within the studies) on the skin’s pH and what it is as a metric on the pH scale.

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Many believe the pH of the (facial) skin is 5.5, which is still seen in current literature; a number given as an absolute, which is incorrect.

The work by the above authors collectively showed a range between 4.1 and 7.5 (from the outer epidermis to the lower layers of the epidermal layers). Thus a mean (average) was 5.5 over the entire epidermal structure. This simply means an approximate between the two extremes found. However, the biggest study that I am aware of was published in 2007 with findings of a mean average of 4.9 pH. What makes this more relevant and the findings more rigorous is that it was a large study of 222 volunteers (147 female and 75 male healthy Caucasians) spread over seven different geographical testing centres (Segger et al 2007). Previous studies had been on a small subject base using various measurements and parameters. This study by Segger et al (2007) puts the natural pH of the skin much lower that the previously accepted mean of 5.5 to a more acidic 4.9 pH. This of course has implications as to the marketing claim 'pH balanced'.

Mind you, my question to that claim has always been “balanced to what?”

It is interesting in looking at various studies; those before 2007 relate the corneum pH at approx. 5.5 while those studies post 2008 tend to articulate the corneal pH lower and in a range 4.5-5.5, while concentrating on endogenous factors affecting skin pH. It has been widely reported that the epidermal skin has a range of actual pH levels with an alkaline Stratum Basalie (7.8) to the Stratum Corneum (4.55.5). This implies that a change of more than 2 pH units occurs over a distance of only about 10 m in the epidermis (normal thickness of human Stratum Corneum) and from optimal pH for both keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation between pH 7.2 and 8.3 (Sharpe et al, 2009) to the corneum range of 4.2-5. This has a number of major effects in terms of wound healing, but that is another story.

An even greater variance is found on the skin in various parts of the

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body – intertriginous areas as an example generally have higher pH readings. (Remember the higher the pH the more alkaline it is.)

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We know that the face has anatomical variation of pH, sebum and hydration, which are related to differences in biophysical specificities of the skin. A study by Marrakchi & Maibach (2007) in looking at various regions of the face concluded that “the chin pH was the most alkaline area in both age groups [mean ages were 29 and 74 age groups]. The forehead and upper eyelid showed the lowest pH values in both groups; however, the forehead, upper eyelid, neck and forearm showed significantly higher pH values in the older group. In the remaining areas studied, the pH was also higher in the older group, although not statistically significant” (p 33). As other studies have confirmed this, it is accepted that an older skin is less acidic than a younger one. These may account for the ease of tissue destruction in this age group. This chart I have constructed from the above study indicates the different pH values of the areas of the study.

There are many different syndets available and usually used in conjunction with emulsifiers and humectants, adding to the positive effect of the product, which are very useful for dry, mature or compromised skin and in dermatological conditions from a study published in 2006 which concluded “Syndet use reduced the severity of eczematous lesions, improved skin condition and maintained hydration. Overall, the results of this study indicate that syndet formulations are compatible with the therapy of Atopic Dermatitis”. (Solodkin et al, 2006.)

Most of the currently available effective cleansing products are syndet based for the efficient removal of surface impurities due to the surfactant action. It is therefore important to use an The authors cite many other studies that also showed the same outcome. a c i d i c - b a s e d c l e a n s e r t o minimise the pH change of the skin.

THE DANGERS OF ALKALINE PRODUCTS ON ACNEIC SKIN The stratum corneum pH regulates at least three epidermal functions: the antimicrobial barrier, permeability barrier, homeostasis and barrier integrity/cohesion. We know that the skin's acidic properties play critical roles in skin flora regulation, barrier homeostasis and sensitising skin to cleansing products.

The pH (potential hydrogen) is actually a measurement of hydronium ion concentration. The pH value expresses the negative logarithmic scale for the effective concentration of H+-ions in solution (pH = ¡log[H+]). This is very changeable dependent on the skin biochemical fluctuations and what is applied to the skin. The skin tries to maintain a balance in pH concentration with a lower than neutral acidic homeostatic balance, via a very effective buffering system.

Interesting studies by Roth and James (1989) and repeated by Schid and Korting (1995) showed that when washing with 'natural' soap the propionibacteria (bacteria most effecting acne) levels increased, yet decreased levels were found post washing with acidic synthetic detergents. Studies showed post washing twice a day for four weeks with an alkaline soap that propionibacteria concentration on the forehead increased from 9.00 to ~ 10.00/cm2, This contrasted with those using the acidic wash with a decrease from 8.6 to ~ 7.5 cm2.

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An important point to note here is not to use alkaline soap on an acneic skin; exactly what your younger clients will be doing at home.

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Aβmus et al (2013) showed the effects of pH change in the skin from cleansing – with a single cleanse with soap leading to an increase in pH of 1.5 – 3 units (that is a 1.5 to 3 number increase from 4 pH to 5.5 to 7 pH). In contrast a pH balanced product using syndets [see side bar], elevated the pH 0.5. Water alone changed the pH level up 1.07 units. Remembering that each unit on the pH scale is 100 times different.

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Buffer solutions contain a weak acid and its conjugated base where 50% of it is dissociated. This is turn relates to the pKa (the negative of the logarithm of the acid dissociation constant [Ka]). This is the true measure of acidic strength, not the pH.

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NHE1 (standing for Na /H exchanger or a sodium/proton pump and the first of seven discovered) is a 500 amino acid protein.

Syndets (stands for synthetic detergents) are very effective mild anionic surfactants (sometimes referred to as tensioactive agents) while the initial ones did have irritancy concerns with some people, current chemistry has made them to be non-irritating, even the ones made with Sodium Laureth Sulfate, a chemical with undeserved bad press, effectively used to treat dermatological conditions.

In simple terms, if the pH increases (by an alkaline application) the skin will try and return to an acidic state, and conversely, if the pH is lowered (by acidic application) the skin will try to return to normal acidic values (in this case using an alkaline buffer).

NHE1 [see side bar] plays a major role in this buffering. This protein allows rapid exchange of Sodium and Hydrogen ions, generally exchanging a proton for an extracellular sodium ion.

Actually, a lot of the skin’s pH comes from fatty acids (particularly phospholipids breaking down to free fatty acids) and ceramides, which has a delicate chemical feedback mechanism going on, as increased pH results in defective lipid processing, effecting not only pH, yet more importantly the lipid bilayers of the cells and the intracellular spaces of the epidermis.

Two of the enzymes that are responsible for this lipid processing, βglucocerebrosidase (hydrolyzes glucosylceramides to ceramides) and acid sphingomyelinase, responsible for hydrolysing sphingomyelin to ceramides, are most active at an acidic pH. An increased pH of the Stratum Corneum reduces the activity of these two key lipid-processing enzymes, leading to a failure to form functionally competent, lamellar bilayers. This results in the incomplete lipid processing and defective lamellar membranes, which then provide many 'knock on effects' such as increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), leading to dehydrated epidermis.

On the other hand some enzymes require higher pH level to be effective. The serine protease group are examples – the two main ones being Stratum Corneum Chymotryptic Enzyme (SCCE) and Stratum Corneum Trypsin Enzyme (SCTE). These are required as they

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APJ 63

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dissolve peptide bonds of protein (keratin), allowing desquamation.

It is essential for these enzymes to have a less acidic milieu to aid the shedding of corneocytes, which helps regulate the functions of the deeper epidermal layers.

This extensive difference in pH occurs within the epidermal layers, which I find is completely amazing.

Disturbance of the barrier function creates a host of concerns. Chief among these is the production of inflammatory cytokines, which increase inflammation and consequent damage to the cellular functioning. Dermatoses such as eczema, atopic dermatitis and seborrheic dermatitis are all related to increased pH levels in the outer layers of the skin.

Another pathway resulting in homeostasis of the pH system is from filaggrin breakdown to urocanic acid and such components.

You may have heard of PCA, which made its appearance in skincare in the 1990s – PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) is from the action of histidase on the histidine amino acid as an outcome of keratohyalin granules breakdown in the Stratum Granulosum.

Use of acidic, not alkaline products on the skin will help maintain the appropriate skin pH levels, thereby maintaining homeostasis and integrity of the epidermal chemical barrier.

One simple way of getting the pH back into balance and keeping it there is the daily use of a vitamin that is common in skin products and helps with pro-collagen matrix. Have you guessed which one?

Aligned to this is a preparation shown in laboratory testing to be effective on decreasing pH levels yet not too low is a mix of citric acid/ammonium citrate buffer, while being non-reactive in terms of irritation. I really think that this and other pH buffering systems will become a mainstay in mature skincare.

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Keeping the skin in an acidic pH level is so important – as much as the corneocytes provide a physical barrier, the chemical barrier relies so heavily on a bit of acidity, which in turn helps with the physical barrier. Acidic skin values help maintain the milieu for enzyme action for correct lipid structure.

While it is possible during treatments to have the skin in an alkaline state, it is critically important that you adjust the skin to its natural acidic state at the end of a treatment.

REFERENCES

OLDER SKIN NEEDS ACID A major factor when working with mature skin is the slowdown of the epidermal turnover rate, which slows down the keratohyalin and other functions of the normal skin epithelisation process, in part due to SCCE and SCTE. This in turn increases the pH levels (that is less acidic) resulting from the decrease of PCA and ceramides availability.

This is in addition to the slowdown of NHE1expression as previously mentioned.

A common concern with mature skin is the ease of desquamation. This is due to activation of the pH dependent serine proteases (which do best in a neutral pH environment) that cause increased and premature destruction of corneodesmosomes, thus unstable connection between the epidermal cells allowing a quicker desquamative removal.

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An increase in pH allows a greater colonisation of microbes as the imbalance allows a greater variety of microbes to inhabit the skin.

Additionally, the increasing pH levels result in lipid processing being disrupted, particularly the lamellar membranes that are so important in formation of the multilamellar lipid composition of the intracellular spaces; the 'mortar' of Elias's Brick and Mortar conceptualisation of the epidermal structure. An interesting side issue is that while the total amount of lipids decrease, the relative proportions of the different classes remain stable.

As the acidic protection of the skin decreases with increasing pH, we get permeability barrier disruption, decrease in skin integrity and increased microbial infections. Additionally we see increased sensitivity to contact irritants – particularly, skincare products that are not rich in emollients.

Barel, A. Lambrecht, R. Clarys, P. Morrison, B. Payne, M. 2001. 'A comparative study of the effects on the skin of a classical bar soap', 'Skin Research and Technology, Vol. 7, pp. 98-104.

Blank, I. A. 1939. 'Measurement of pH of the skin surface', Journal of Investigative Dermatology, Vol. 2, pp. 75-79.

Boelsma, E. Van der Vijer, L. Goldbohm, A. Klopping-Ketelaars, I. Hendricks, H. Rosza, L. 2003. 'Human skin conditions and its associations with nutrient concentrations in serum and diet' American Journal of Clinical Nutrition. Vol.77, pp. 348-355.

Heuss, E.1892. 'Die Reaktion des Schweisses beim gesunden Menschen'. Monatsschr Prakt Dermatology, Vol 14, pp.343-501.

MarrakchI, S. and Maibach, H. 2007, 'Biophysical parameters of skin: map of human face, regional, and age-related differences', Contact Dermatitis. Vol .57, pp. 28-34.

Ohman, H. and Vahlquist, A. 1994. 'In vivo studies concerning a pH gradient in human stratum corneum and upper epidermis', Acta Dermatology and Venereology, Vol 74, pp. 375-379.

Schimd, M and Korting, H. 1995. 'The concept of the acid mantle of the skin: it relevance for the choice of skin cleansers', Journal of Dermatology, Vol. 191, pp. 276-280.

Segger, D. Aβmus, U. Brock, M. Erasmy, J. Finkel, P. Fitzner, A. Heuss, H. Kortemeir, U. Munke, S. Rheinlander, T. Schmidt-Lewerkuhne, H. Schneider, W. and Weser, G. 2007.

'Multicenter Study on Measurement of the Natural pH of the Skin', International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 10, No. 2, pp 107-110.

Sharpe, J. Harris, K. Jubin, K. Bainbridge, N. and Jordan, N. 2009. 'The effect of pH in modulating skin cell behaviour', British Journal of Dermatology, Vol. 161, pp. 671- 673.

Solodkin, G. Chaudhari, U. Subramanyan, K. Johnson, A.W. Yan, X. Gottlieb, A. 2006.

'Benefits of mild cleansing: synthetic surfactant based (syndet) bars for patients with atopic dermatitis', Cutis, Vol. 77, No. 5, pp.17-24.

Roth, R. and James, W. 1989. 'Microbiology of the skin: resident flora, ecology, infections', Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Vol. 20, issue 3, pp. 367386.

Zlotogorski, A. Dikstein, S. 1995. '-Measurement in skin surface pH', in Serjup, J. and Jemec, G. (eds.), Handbook of Non-invasive Methods and the Skin, CRC Press, Boca Raton.

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APJ 64

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THE NEW FACE OF PUBLIC RELATIONS and how it can TRANSFORM A BRAND

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Gill Fish is the founder and Managing Director of Brand New Solutions, Australia's leading Preventative Health, Anti-Ageing and Beauty PR Agency, and a highly skilled, innovative and astute PR professional and businesswoman. For her expertise and wisdom we are delighted that she is also a valuable member of APAN's National Advisory Council – an external independent body that offers expert advice and recommendations to the directors of APAN.

Gill embodies three key qualities – integrity, an amazing work ethic and a highly professional approach to all that she undertakes. She is fiercely loyal and committed to her clients, ensuring the companies that she represent receive the very highest standard of service that will help them achieve prominence and success for their brand, regardless of how competitive the marketplace is for them.

Despite the GFC and while other PR agencies and journalists are experiencing tough times, Brand New Solutions continues to experience unprecedented growth. This has been as a result of staying current to market trends and implementing cutting-edge innovative strategies that has propelled Brand New Solutions as leaders in their field of expertise.

In this interview we have attempted to capture the essence of this incredible woman and to share with you her highly inspirational story and amazing approach to life and work. This article also unveils how the concept of PR is changing and how a successful PR campaign can transform a business and give a brand global recognition.

APJ Q1: Gill share with us a little about your background and how you got involved in the world of media?

Gill: I was inspired to join the world of media by my mother, who herself became a journalist at the age of 59. Zelda had had been an accountant all her life, but always had the gift of the word, citing Shakespeare, writing poetry and being interested in news and the wellbeing of her fellow mankind. In her late 50s, circumstances in her life changed and an opportunity was presented to her to join Cosmopolitan magazine as PA to the Editor (in those days the magazine was quite different to what is now) – and the rest is history.

Within a short space of time Zelda had found her niche, winning several industry awards for outstanding journalism as a leading financial and investigative writer, and this really inspired me. I used to visit her at the Cosmopolitan offices in Cape Town after uni a few days a week and I was in awe of the buzz on the floor of the magazine. It was fast, colourful, cutting edge and fun. From that point, I knew I wanted to join a magazine. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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I completed a Bachelor of Social Science majoring in Psychology and Languages (UCT, Cape Town), followed by an international Diploma in Advertising (AAA, Cape Town) and the day after I completed my Diploma I commenced my first job as a Fashion Assistant on fortnightly FairLady Magazine, at the time South Africa's highest circulating female/general interest magazine.

Over the next 12 years (with a break or two) I worked my way up to Managing Editor of FairLady, finally leaving the magazine in 2000 to migrate to Australia with my husband. By that time I had specialised in

restructuring ailing publications that had lost their way. The love of media was truly in my veins.

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When I arrived in Australia I joined a community newspaper that had been losing money for years and, together with the team, we turned that around in 18 months.

I then decided to start my own business, working with media from the outside in. And so Brand New Solutions was born in 2002. To this day I have never been inside another PR agency.

APJ Q2. The traditional role of PR is changing with both journalists and PR professionals struggling to survive.

What are the changes you have observed and how are you evolving to meet the needs of a changing world?

Gill: The advent of the Internet and social media coupled with the

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GFC has changed the media landscape, and thus the PR industry dramatically. Prior to these events, advertising revenue in traditional media (print and TV) was abundant, with large 'book sizes) ie fat magazines, robust newspapers, all with abundant space for editorial.

Now things have changed. The expansion of revenue and audience attention to online websites and social media means that traditional media has shrunk and in some instances closed. Newspaper readership is shrinking, but the online versions are growing. Similarly, magazines are suffering the same fate, with reduced staff numbers, except in the field of health, which continues to see new launches. By the same token, budgets were abundant and PR was seen as a nice thing to have, adding an edge of status to a client. Now status doesn't count – either the agency delivers tangible results, cost-effectively, or they are out.

All this creates opportunities for PR practitioners who have adapted to this change. These days, successful PR practitioners need to think like journalists. We need to think smart and work fast and develop great story ideas that achieve media cut-through. The days of doing a mass sendout of product to media on one day are also numbered. To be successful as a practitioner 1:1 tailored pitching is required in order to be successful.

Take a skincare brand for example – a good PR practitioner understands the pathways of dermatopause and skin ageing; the mechanisms of ingredients and delivery systems; who the key opinion leaders in the industry are to draw comment from.

With the growth in beauty opportunities through online news portals, the turnaround needs to be lightning quick. Similarly, the advent of natural, eco-friendly and sustainable products requires us to be up to date with these trends, what they mean, enabling us to get cut-through for our clients in a highly competitive market. Our journalistic input can help define and determine the fine detail of a story.

Social and online media has also provided a tangible and measurable vehicle for clients to see growth. Traffic to websites can be measured and community engagement is clear to see. This differs from the traditional media of, say, six years ago, and provides clients with tools that they value investing in. Social media is PR's biggest competitor in terms of dollar spend.

Most importantly, we need to understand our clients' needs and take the time to educate them about our needs in order to be effective. It is a partnership that works in harmony.

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Traditional functions such as newsletter writing and annual report writing among other standard PR practices still remains the same.

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APJ Q3. In just one paragraph what is Brand New Solutions' mission and purpose, and what do you aim to achieve for your clients that is uniquely different in our times?

Gill: As Australia's only specialist Preventative Health, Anti-Ageing and Beauty PR Agency our aim is to continue to advance our in-depth learning about Preventative Health and Beauty in order to help us generate best PR; share our vast industry knowledge and contacts with our clients to deliver successful PR campaigns that generate credible newsworthy content to media that creates cut-through in a timely fashion; leverage off our wide network of industry key opinion leaders; providing positive input to the profile building and growth of our clients' brands and become an indispensable extension of their businesses.

APJ Q4. How do you and your team conceptualise a new creative and competitive idea or approach for your clients?

Gill: Upon briefing by a client, which must include more than handover of product and brochures, but an in-depth verbal discussion, we deconstruct the brand/product down to its very core, to define a set of angles that may not be obvious at first glance. We segment the media landscape into target markets that are relevant to that client and for each segment define an approach that we believe that specific set of journalists will relate to. Our out of the box thinking as well as understanding of the forces of online and offline media and social media is what gives us the edge.

industries, provides a powerful combination to help us to understand our task at hand in a 360° way and thus ensures that we drive successful campaigns.

APJ Q7. What is the best business decision you ever made?

Gill: The best business decision I have ever made was to attend a medical conference in Prevention to learn with doctors and practitioners about issues relating to health and beauty. This kick started my now in-depth knowledge in this field and that has set us as the leader in the field of Preventative Health, Anti-Ageing and Beauty PR.

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APJ Q8. Give us an example of a phenomenal success breakthrough for a client and how did you achieve it?

Gill: We have had many successful campaigns during our 10.5 years in practice.

In 2003 we launched Jane Iredale – The Skincare Makeup to the media. This was the first-ever mineral makeup launched in Australia and at the time the media needed to be educated about the benefits of pure minerals (paraben and phthalate free, mineral rich). We commenced with a launch event that Jane Iredale attended and followed on with a campaign, which ran for close on five years. In the beginning it took time and perseverance, educating the media about

APJ Q5. What qualities do you look for in a staff member and how do you choose team players that will complete the dynamic mix that constitutes the BNS Team?

Gill: Our PR team works like a jigsaw puzzle, different people with different interests – ranging from Anti-Ageing Medicine to Preventative Health and Beauty. Some are required to crossover from Health to Beauty and vice versa. The common denominator through all is passion for media and generating story ideas and media coverage; attention to detail so that the journalist receives information that is accurate and easy to understand; an ability to work smart in a fast-paced (often short-lead deadline news) environment; a value for honesty, integrity and exceptional client service; an understanding and respect for the commercial realities of our clients' and our business and, as importantly, the ability to have fun along the way.

APJ Q6. What are your most effective work habits you have recently adopted?

Gill: I am an early riser – 5.30am each day – to read the news, local and ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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international, tap into any stories I think are relevant for our clients to tag on to; going out to consumer/community events on a regular basis gives one a perspective on what it is that drives consumers in purchasing decisions, what their challenges, wants and wishes are; touching base with our clients on a regular basis, not necessarily for a specific reason, but just to see how their business is tracking, enables us to be sensitive to their needs and to any issues that may be on the horizon regarding the campaign, spend or other business developments. It also signals we are here to add value. All this information, combined with our in-depth knowledge of the media landscape as well as the Preventative Health, Anti-Ageing and Beauty

the concept of mineral makeup, about each ingredient and their function in skin health and beauty, and the media loved the brand. We secured significant coverage with great outcomes and the company experienced strong growth.

Another client success story commenced in November 2008 when I was introduced to the Managing Director of The Rosehip Specialists™, distributing a product called Rose-Hip Vital with GOPO®. At the time it was a small company with a handful of employees distributing a Danish natural anti-inflammatory averaging a couple of – hundred bottles a month, supported by some sporadic advertising that delivered little success.

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Four and a half years later, with 16 TV stories (yes, 16!), countless print and online coverage, some of the health leaders in the industry

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happy to support the product claims, distribution through 4500+ stores, the campaign has been an outstanding success and has broken all PR records. The company has seen meteoric growth.

Off the back of that success, 2012 saw the launch of a new beauty brand, RosehipPLUS (whose name we developed), as well as RoseHip Vital® Canine, with Equine soon to follow.

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The brand has been referred to by some of the powerhouses in the industry as 'coming out of nowhere'. Our strategy was to deconstruct the product concept and find the unique value and newsworthiness in each case, engage advocates (user and KOL) and use our journalistic ability to harness the power of media for significant success. To this day we have never had an official launch event!

APJ Q9. How has marketing a brand changed over the past five years?

Gill: Today marketing is vastly different to days gone by. The advent of digital enables short, sharp turnaround, costeffective campaigns and the ability to measure success in a more tangible way. While the principles of marketing remain the same ie finding out what consumers want and then providing for them, these days tools are available to engage in a speedy manner. Qualitative and Quantitative research is still the norm. Now we can add online research to that mix eg Survey Monkey for short, sharp pieces of information. Marketing for the bottom line is still the final goal. However, the tools have evolved. The integration of PR and Marketing has evolved and synergies are seen between both modalities of building a business.

APJ Q10. Give us a typical outline of your fundamental approach in to build a brand's identity and profile?

Gill: Our initial approach to any campaign is similar:

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Take a detailed client brief, including an understanding of the product/service as well as their business goals (brand building vs driving sales) for the short, medium and long term Deconstruct the concept down to its core and marry concepts to the different angles of the media Have ongoing contact with the client to ensure that we know what is happening in their business

As the campaign evolves, so the sky is the limit. We are only limited by ourselves. I like to push the boundaries, think outside of the square, break the mould of traditional PR thinking in order to achieve exceptional results.

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APJ Q11. Do you ever experience reservations from companies to trust their brand to your professional recommendations and expertise, and how skilful do you need to be to assist a client through the transition of change for the purpose of achieving growth and progress?

Gill: Post GFC budgets have tightened up, and while clients trust us, our knowledge in the industry and our recommendations, they all want to know they are getting value for money. Some have been burnt in the past and others struggle to understand the benefits of PR. As such, in order to allay their concerns, we have to have short-term measurement tools to show them we are getting results that matter to their business.

For that reason we have a fortnightly WIP (work in progress) report that enables them to see what we are doing. Sometimes, if we are trialling a concept that is new to them, we have to dip our toe in the

water first, show them the results and then up-sell them later on when they are confident.

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Three hundred and sixty degree thinking is key to our success. We have to show an understanding of their business needs and the media's needs and combine both of those to produce value. Our client service skills are key to this in our meetings, phone conversations and emails.

It is critical to demonstrate value and engender trust.

APJ Q12. Who is the most important person in your business?

Gill: My business philosophy is 'I am only as good as my team'. Each

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team member plays a vital role in the business. If I had to choose one person though, I guess that would be me. I have the knowledge and the vision that gives us the edge in the industry and that guides the team from day-to-day.

APJ Q13. How do you relax, re-energise yourself and refuel your creativity?

Gill: When I do get downtime, not often at this stage, I like to spend time with my husband – we go into the country for a breath of fresh air, or to some of Sydney's fabulous organic markets, just enjoying the pleasures of living in Australia. I enjoy people watching to get a feel for what makes people tick. I like to read about health and food trends as well as property. I also like to travel, to see my family in South Africa – it is a colourful, vibrant and energetic society that is like oxygen in my body.

APJ Q14. What is your growth strategy in the next two years and what do you want Brand New Solutions to achieve?

Gill: I want Brand New Solutions to continue to stay ahead of the pack as the leader in Preventative Health, Anti-Ageing and Beauty PR in Australia, and to be able to utilise all tools available to us to help our clients' grow their businesses – media, social media, activations, networking and associations.

As such I need to ensure that we keep abreast of industry and brand trends and developments. I also want to ensure that we have our finger on the pulse in terms of what is happening in media, as the landscape changes each and every day. For that I need to continue to ensure I have the right people on the team in order to harness the potential.

We have exciting times ahead in an industry that is growing fast, in a time of economic uncertainty. I need to nurture what I have and stay ahead of the market in order to keep our edge and to secure new business.

I am honoured to sit on the Advisory Board for APAN contributing to the PR and Marketing needs of the industry. I have also been invited to talk at the CHC (Complementary Healthcare Council) about the power of media in CM (Complementary Medicine) and how to harness it. I look forward to sharing some insights with the leaders in this industry.

PR is forever evolving – it is a landscape that shifts and slides each day – those who win understand their clients' needs and are able to marry that with the needs of the media for potent success.

Gillian Fish can be contacted on Ph: 0400 200 441 | 02 8356 9595 or gfish@brandnewsolutions.com.au

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The SCIENCE behind the use of PLANT STEM CELLS IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

By Michael Pugliese

There is a lot of controversy as to whether plant stem cells work in skincare and the good news is yes, they do work in the epidermis, but in a very different way that human stem cells work, and this has led to a lot of misinformation about what they can and cannot do when it comes to skincare formulations. In this article Michael Pugliese explains how human and plant cells differ and identifies the capabilities of both. If you are using skincare that is based on stem cell technology this article will help you separate fact from fiction and allow you to gain the scientific perspective on the subject.

Stem cells are special cells in the body that provide a continuous source of new cells – they have two unique features: they are unspecialised, which retains the ability of self-renewal by cell division, almost without limit. They also have the ability to become specific cells of a particular tissue or organ. For example, in the intestine, they constantly replace wornout cells that line the intestinal surface.

There are many types of stem cells, but the two basic kinds of stem cells are called embryonic stem cells and somatic stem cells.

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The embryonic stem cells are more primitive, in that they have a greater capability of dividing into many different kinds of cells. At a certain stage the embryo will undergo a change in which three fundamental tissues are formed. These tissues are known as ectoderm, endoderm and mesoderm. It is by selective and specific differentiation that these three tissues will form all the organs and tissues of the body.

The ectoderm, for example, will form the hair, the skin, the teeth and the nervous system, including the brain.

Let us follow one of these cells as it selects a career pathway and goes through the various stages. For example, an ectodermal stem cell decides that he wants to be a skin cell. First, he will divide into two

separate cells; let us call them A and B. Cell A will remain an active ectodermal stem cell with full capabilities to become any number of other types of cells, while Cell B is now irreversibly programmed to become a skin cell. At first it starts out as a keratinocytoblast in the skin and resides forever in the bottom layer, also called the basal layer; for short we call the keratinocytoblast a basal cell.

Cell B will now continue to differentiate, that is, make the necessary internal changes physically and chemically to eventually become a stratum corneum cell. Once the cell starts to differentiate, it can no longer stop the process until it has finally achieved the end stage, that is, a cornified cell.

Endodermal cells can select from a variety of pathways but they are limited to the gastrointestinal tract and all its associated organs. The mesodermal cells are the lucky guys. They can choose to become a variety of cells ranging from bone to blood, they can stay put in one place or they can choose to wander about the body forever. For instance, a mesodermal cell that chooses the pathway to be a blood cell has six different roadways to follow.

First it must decide to be a red cell or a white blood cell. Now there is just one roadway for becoming a red cell, but five roadways for becoming a white cell. It can become a neutrophile, a basophile, an eosinophile, a monocyte or a lymphocyte. Whatever road, or pathway, it chooses it must first irreversibly become a limited stem cell and is forever destined to travel that road. One of the characteristics of stem cells is that the original stem cell stays the same after the first division on the pathway to differentiate, while the daughter cell will lose this ability and continue to progress to an end cell, that is, a fully differential adult cell.

These early embryonic stem cells are called totipotential cells, that is, they can become any type of cell, but after they change into mesoderm, ectoderm or endoderm they are called pluripotential cells since they have partially differentiated. Certain adult cells, known as

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somatic cells, retain the ability to be altered and reprogrammed to become stem cells. Scientists are just beginning to work with these cells and they are proving to be a source of possible use in medical therapeutics. One application of stem cells is to replace worn-out, damaged or non-viable body cells.

PLANT STEM CELLS AND THEIR FUNCTION So what does stem cell mean for the aesthetician faced with a plethora of new products claiming to improve the skin? How to differentiate between the hype and what can really help? Begin by understanding that the focus for topical use is far away from the media controversy over using human stem cells to treat debilitating degenerative disease.

That is not our expertise, nor is it our fight. The emerging cosmetic use focuses on plant stem cells.

So let us explore the differences between these sources.

Plant stem cells are unlike many adult animal stem cells in that they are totipotent, meaning they can give rise to any plant tissue. They are also plentiful, located in apical meristems of roots and shoots (buds for example). In further contrast to animal cells, any somatic plant cell can revert from its differentiated state to become a totipotent stem cell. Thus, in order to harvest stem cells, companies that produce stem cells will often wound a plant so that some of its cells around the wound will revert to stem cells. Once harvested, plant stem cell tissue is grown in culture to produce large quantities for industrial demand, a process, which proves to be both a renewable and eco-friendly resource.

To prepare stem cell cultures for use in a product, the cultures are either dried down to a powder or extracted. In either case, the live stem cell itself is destroyed. When cultures are dried to a powder, stem cells break apart in the process. Instead of drying, stem cells may also be extracted for their important components (much like making a juice or pressing olives for their oil), and in this case extracts are also usually dried a little and then resuspended in solvents such as glycerin. Any claim or implication that a product contains live stem cells is utterly false.

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Perhaps as protection during or as a result of their rapid division, stem cells are rich in potent antioxidants, providing great advantages to human skin. Each species of stem cell will also produce its own special profile of secondary metabolites, meaning molecules that are not needed for the cell's growth and reproduction. Secondary metabolites often coevolved with a plant's environment to deter predators or attract other organisms for mutual benefit. Regardless, it is the secondary metabolites that are often of benefit to human skin, activating protective pathways in human cells or stimulating growth and division.

Grape stem cells provide an excellent example of these actions; they produce a profile of metabolites that are photo-protective for the human skin and

PLANT STEM CELLS USED IN COSMETIC FORMULATIONS

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Grape Stem Cell Extract (PhytoCell Tech Solar Vitis) – Protects against oxidative and UV damage, shown to delay cell senescence.

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Edelweiss Stem Cell Extract (Leontopodium Alpinum) – Preparation of Leontopodium Alpinum meristem culture that provides antioxidant activity, antihyaluronidasic activity, and anticollagensaic activity. Thus it is shown to reduce wrinkle depth by 15% around the eye after only 20 days of treatment.

Apple Stem Cell Extract (Malus Domestica) – Liposomal preparation from stem cells of a rare Swiss apple known for its longevity. Increases vitality, delays senescence and combats chronological ageing in skin cell. The extract has been shown to help skin stem cells maintain their characteristics and their capacity to build new tissues. It also has been shown to delay ageing and have an anti-wrinkle effect.

Lilac Stem Cell Extract (Malodextrin and Syringa Vulgaris) – Rich in verbascoside with strong antiinflammatory activity and effectiveness against p. Acnes.

Gardenia stem cell extract (Gardenia Jasminoides) – Rich in moisturising phytosterols and polysaccharides, along with antioxidative phenlypropanoids (e.g. feruloyl-6-glucoside), protects the skin's extra-cellular matrix from degradation by MMPs and stimulates collagen production. ㄰ 㤵

Marrubium Stem Cell Extract

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(Marrubium vulgaremeristem) – Rich in phenylpropanoids (i.e. forsythoside B and verbacoside) which are defensive molecules that protect the skin against oxidants and activate the skin's self-defence systems.

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Gardenia stem cells produce effective antioxidants, including feruloyl-6-glucoside. Finally, Centella asiatica extracts contain caffeoylquinic acid derivatives and other metabolites that provide firming and restructuring actions as well as antioxidant activity.

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To decide on the right stem cell for a product, the formulator should do their own research into each stem cell's secondary metabolite profiles and choose the best for the intended effect. Stem cells can be incorporated into serums, creams or lotions and are best added at cold stages to ensure the stability of all secondary metabolites.

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As with any exciting new ingredient category, myth and misinformation from marketers surrounds the use of stem cells in skin care. The goal of this profession is to utilise scientific validity in the selection and use of stem cells in functional, elegant skincare formulation, and to educate clients with realistic expectations in using stem cell-containing products.

delay cellular senescence. Many secondary metabolites also act as anti-fungal or anti-bacterial compounds that provide further protection for the skin. For example, lilac and Marrubium vulgare contain verbascoside, a compound known for its antimicrobial activity and anti-inflammatory activity.

The most well-known stem cells are currently derived from the Swiss apple and the Edelweiss flower, with information readily available.

Some of the lesser-known stem cells with interesting secondary metabolite profiles are derived from Marrubium vulgare, gardenia and Centella asiatica. For example, Marrubium vulgare is not only rich in antioxidants and verbascoside, it also contains Forsythoside B, which among its other metabolites, activates protective and detoxification processes in human cells, thus preparing the skin for future attacks from environmental aggressors.

Michael Q. Pugliese, BS, L.E. became the third-generation CEO of Circadia by Dr. Pugliese, Inc. in 2006. Under Michael's leadership, the Circadia brand has grown to achieve international recognition and distribution. He is a licensed aesthetician, a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and regularly attends their education events to stay on the cutting edge of new product development. Michael's compelling original lectures honor the tenets of modern skin science discovered by his grandfather, and add today's application of that information in an ever-changing business and scientific environment.

For more information and to access Circadia by Dr Pugliese Skincare in Australia phone 1800 247 223 or Email cannizzaroangela@hotmail.com

MeriStem Serum The new-generation anti-ageing serum with plant stem cells enhanced with the latest peptides for firmer, younger-looking skin Benefits:

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Combats ageing in the skin Strengthens the skin, improves firmness and elasticity Rich in antioxidants

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS Apple (Malus Domestica) stem cell extract: Liposomal preparation from stem cells of a rare Swiss apple known for its longevity. Increases vitality, delayssenescence, and combats chronological ageing in skin cell. The extract has been shown to help skin stem cells maintain their characteristics and their capacity to build new tissues. It also has been shown to delay ageing and have an anti-wrinkle effect.

Distinctive Phytostem Edelweissstem cell extract (Leontopodium alpinum meristem cell culture extract): Preparation of Leontopodium Alpinum meristem culture that provides antioxidant activity, anti-hyaluronidasic and andanti-collagensaic activity. Is shown to reduce wrinkle depth by 15% around the eye after only 20 days of treatment. ㄰

Aloe Vera Gel-Eco (Aloe barbadensis) extract: Rich in mucilaginous polysaccharidesincluding acemannin(one of the active metabolites of Aloe); wound healing, stimulates fibroblast growth, angiogenesis, and re-epithelialistion, reduces inflammation and

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increases collagen synthesis.

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Cyclopeptide-5: A novel cyclopeptide binds integrins and increases signaling for extracellular matrix production and crosstalk between skin cells. This results in increased tensil and compressive strength, elasticity, and firmness to the skin. Wrinkles are reduced and the skin is smoothed.

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For more information and to access Circadia by Dr Pugliese Skincare in Australia Phone 1800 247 223 or Email cannizzaroangela@hotmail.com

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Recovery Potential of Skin Until recently the recovery potential of skin was determined by DNA and lifestyle. It was only during studies in the field of quantum physics and in particular the influence of Static Magnetic Fields (SMF) on behaviour patterns in lipid bilayers that recently altered our view of skin. We now know that a Static Magnetic Field affects cell size, shape, orientation and membrane surface structure. Evidence supports that the physical manifestations of changes in blood perfusion, skin fibroblasts, cell morphology and lipid rearrangement are interfaced with energy systems related to static magnetic fields. A view of skin within an SMF reveals a molecular world of energetic relationships, centrally connected and constantly signaling via somatosensory nerves.

Understanding its biochemistry, microstructure and content, brings the realisation that its appearance is being controlled from within.

It is important to note from the outset that a SMF can extend to a depth of 6-20mm below the surface of the skin depending on strength and location of the fields. Also, the lipid bilayer which is known to be selectively permeable, is instantly responsive to a SMF. It is here that magnetic influence has its greatest effect, increasing hydration and blood flow and altering tissue permeability to strengthen the keratinocyte cytoskeleton. Gauss (strength) and polarity of micro-magnets when used specifically, provide stimuli to the skin to provoke pathways and mediators to initiate adaptive or homeostatic responses leading to recovery from ageing influences such as toxic skin factors and the breakdown of healthy skin flora. Increased permeation of both hydrophilic and lipophilic substances triggers increased amino acid, enzyme and neuropeptide activity. This is seen within 15 to 20 minutes of application of a gauss specific SMF, as skin firms to touch and gains “bounce”.

“The physical manifestations of changes in skin fibroblasts, blood profusion, cell morphology and lipid rearrangement, are interfaced with energy systems related to Static Magnetic Fields” -Kathy Pedersen, developer and trainer

-Qi beauty Internaitonal

As we age cellular activity diminishes and the nutrient support enjoyed by younger skin becomes compromised.

Qi Beauty Practitioners are trained to personalise a treatment and construct a SMF matrix to change the landscape of the skin and stimulate volume and tone where needed. Training in this modality as a Certified Qi Beauty Practitioner will ensure you can deliver these unique anti-ageing benefits to your clients. Contact Qi Beauty International for further details Sales@qibeauty.com.au

Skin ageing is multi-factorial as skin loses elasticity with diminished epidermal hydration and slower turnover of cells and tissues. Fat cells in the subcutis slow down their metabolic activity leading to a loss of fatty tissue. Nutrient supply decreases while TCF proteins and natural moisturising factor (NMF) in the Stratum Corneum are diminished.

The process of epidermal renewal is ensured by antigen p63 and CD29 (integrin ß-1B), expressed in epidermal stem cells in the basal layer.

These proliferative progenitor cells have the capacity for self-renewal and for generating the differentiated cells that create the stratified epithelium of terminally differentiating cells. A Static Magnetic Field which has the potential to extend to great depths offers a unique opportunity for recovery and a lifetime of age control.

Tissue activity before SMF

Tissue activity after SMF

Tissue activity before SMF

Training Enquiries: 1300658804 sales@qibeauty.com.au www.qibeauty.com.au

Tissue activity after SMF

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9 National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference Advances in surgical and non-surgical techniques for the cosmetic physician Sofitel Wentworth Hotel, Sydney | 16 - 17 November 2013

The Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine (ACAM) and the Australasian Society of Cosmetic Medicine (ASCM) are once again th proud to support the 9 National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference (LCMC 2013), being held in Sydney from 16 – 17 November 2013.

This important conference targets cosmetic physicians, cosmetic and plastic surgeons, dermatologists as well as nurses and other aesthetic practitioners from across Australia and the region.

CONFERENCE PROGRAM The conference program features new treatments and procedures, including regenerative use of stem cells, non-surgical facelift, liposculpture techniques and more familiar treatments such as antiwrinkle injections and dermal fillers. New areas of anti-ageing medicine will be introduced and the latest advances in non-surgical and surgical management of skin cancer.

ACAM President Dr Jass Narulla said; “New regenerative techniques such as stem-cell therapies and less-invasive procedures provides greater treatment choice with excellent results and minimum intervention. This conference is an ideal opportunity to learn from leading practitioners in the field of cosmetic medicine, surgery and anti-aging medicine”.

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TOPICS AND KEYNOTE SPEAKERS AT LCMC 2013 INCLUDE:

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Dr Michael Rich (Dermatologist, Melbourne) Advances in Liposculture Technique Dr Robin Willcourt (expert in Anti-ageing Medicine, Melbourne) Effective Anti-ageing treatment and Exercise Dr Ralph Bright (Cosmetic Physician, Sydney) Stem Cells in Cosmetic Medicine Dr Ehsan Jadoon (Cosmetic Physician, Sydney) Non-Surgical Facial Threadlift Dr Damien Foong (Skin Cancer, Brisbane) Surgical Management

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of Skin Cancers. How to do a simple flap repair in the surgery.

Dr Keng-Ee Thai (Dermatologist, Sydney) What are the best options for treating non-melanoma skin cancer and solar keratoses?

For a full program and more information on LCMC 2013, please visit: www.dcconferences.com.au/lcmc2013.

The recent Inter-Jurisdictional Cosmetic Surgery Working Group emphasised the need to ensure that medical practitioners undertaking cosmetic, medical and surgical procedures are part of a program of peer review and ongoing education. To this end LCMC 2013 is accredited with the RACGP QI and CPD program.

The conference will also feature an extensive industry exhibition with the latest equipment and products on display and for trial.

Paramedical Workshop – IPL & Laser Treatment Techniques Running concurrently with the conference is a course for nurses and paramedical staff including aesthetic therapists on IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) and Laser Treatment Techniques. Anyone considering pursuing a future in IPL or Laser applications will understand the significance of education in relation to the practice and understanding of physiological interactions of these technologies.

Never before has it been so apparent that education in this area provides quality outcomes, not only for the operator, but also for the employer. This two-day course delivered by GrayClay Medical Aesthetics Education is a solid entry point for any practitioner wanting to commence in the industry with sound knowledge and understanding in a number of treatment areas, including vascular, pigmentation, rejuvenation, acne and hair removal.

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In some Australian States this course is required as part of obtaining a laser Use Licence. In non-regulated States it is still strongly recommended as a way of understanding laser and IPL technology and for guidelines on necessary standard operating procedures. Some insurance companies insist all staff using a laser or IPL show proof of such Laser Safety certification before they will insure the clinic/salon.

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Additionally, the view of a number of experts in this profession is that regulation and qualifications in relation to IPL and laser use will only increase as the industry continues to review use requirements.

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The opportunity to undertake the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science IPL and Laser Safety Officer's course over two days at the 9th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference in Sydney Australia is one not to be missed. It will provide an exceptional platform for anyone to commence the first step in acquiring formal training in light-based therapies. The opportunity to complete and achieve this qualification by undertaking the formal assessments online only adds to the incredible value of attending the conference and assisting you to secure your future in IPL and laser practice.

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PRE-CONFERENCE WORKSHOP – INTRODUCTION TO COSMETIC MEDICINE Also available is a 3-day pre-conference Introduction to Cosmetic Medicine Workshop, being held from 13-15 November 2013 at Rydges Hotel, North Sydney. This is an intensive theoretical and practical workshop aimed at medical practitioners new to the field of cosmetic medicine. The program covers chemical peels, Botulinum Toxin, dermal fillers, lasers and sclerotherapy. The registration cost includes attendance to LCMC 2013.

For further information on LCMC 2013 please contact DC Conferences, the Conference Secretariat: Phone: 02 9954 4400 Email: lcmc2013@dcconferences.com.au Web: www.dcconferences.com.au/lcmc2013 Dr Jass Narulla National President of ASCM with Dr Doug Grose

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SKIN INSPIRATION A successful fusion of Aesthetics and Cosmetic Medicine Sue Carroll is an APAN member, the director and head para-medical aesthetician of Skin Inspiration Advanced Skin and Laser Clinic situated in Mona Vale – a suburb of the Northern Beaches of Sydney.

Sue has over 30 years experience, having qualified as a beauty therapist with ITEC, and as a para-medical aesthetician in the US, while constantly updating her skills and knowledge on an ongoing basis. This commitment has given her the reputation as a leader in her field and her bookings valid this. While other salons are struggling Sue is constantly booked out never short of a new client seeking her services.

Behind every success story there is some nuggets of wisdom. We trust that as Sue shares her experiences with us this will assist others to pick us, some great tips and benefit from her knowledge.

APJ Q1: Sue, what important changes have you implemented in your practice during the past 2-3 years as a result of consumer demand and how has this worked out for you?

Sue: The truth is that consumer spending has definitely decreased

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improve their clinic results. At a recent training session it was brought to our attention that results should be divided into 30/70. What we do in the salon or clinic should deliver 30% of the results, while what the client does should contribute 70% of the results. I use the analogy of a personal trainer – you pay them for their expertise and knowledge.

They determine your needs and put together a program to help strengthen and tone your body. You may see them for one hour a week, but unless you follow their recommendations for the rest of the week you can't expect to sustain the results, let alone experience continued improvement. As therapists we take so much on board and feel responsible to transform our clients' skin, while they expect us to do all the work, but it doesn't work that way. Sustained and significant skin improvement is as a result of a collaborative partnership between your client and you. You are there to guide them to do their part, while you do yours. We are expected to do more than just pampering and relaxation consumers now look to us for noticeable and substantial skin improvement and more serious results. This approach has enabled me to achieve the results my clients are looking for, while sustaining client loyalty as they see me not only as a therapist, but also as a coach who is also interesting in keeping them accountable and committed to their contribution to the process of not just improving their skin, but also supporting their wellbeing.

over recent years, meanwhile clients are still constantly seeking high level results. To solve this dilemma we have restructured our treatments so that they are shorter, intensive, yet more affordable for the average client. The aim has been to continue to meet client expectation and offer them great value, but still fit our services within their budgetary restraints, while still maintaining our profitability.

Getting this right has been a challenge but we have managed to achieve it. We have done this by combining technologies to deliver fast, efficient treatments that are more hi-tech than hi-touch.

APJ Q2: How have you been able to successfully integrate cosmetic medicine with your services and what percentage of your clients are looking to access both services?

Sue: At this state 43% of my clients utilise both my services as well as cosmetic and integrative medicine – this is almost half of my clients

Another strategy that has made a huge difference not only to results, but also to client loyalty, has been to train our clients to commit to the recommended homecare and lifestyle that will support and continue to

that are happy to be guided through the services of my complete network. For over 30 years I have been able to build a high calibre professional network of like-minded experts that includes nurses, doctors, plastic surgeons and regenerative medical practitioners. We

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have built a great professional relationship and we achieve this through regular meetings where we exchange information and identify ways that we can better understand what each one can offer our client/patient so that we can achieve the best possible results. I often invite my doctor or plastic surgeon to experience my treatments so that they can understand what I can achieve with the skin, which is primarily improving colour, texture and tone, while their focus is on structural issues and volume. On the other hand I request that they include me in any training they deliver and allow me to experience what they do so that I can gain a better understanding of their expertise and how our services can best dovetail effectively for a better client/patient outcome.

APJ Q3: What advice would you give someone who wishes to extend their services to include cosmetic and regenerative medicine? How should they go about it?

Sue: The best way to grow your network is to start by growing your knowledge. Attend conferences, read journals, study techniques, do your own research and gain understanding of what you wish to introduce to your clients. Don't just jump on the bandwagon without fully understanding what you will be introducing to your clients. For example, study what injectibles can offer your client so that you can guide them with your understanding and knowledge of the various procedures. Then select a practitioner that has the right aesthetic approach. Appearance enhancement has now come into its own. It is more subtle, more discreet and more natural. The new approach has become more specialised and is based on the concept that “more is less”. It's not about getting the 38 DDD size bust or the overvolumised lips that scream “I've been enhanced” from a distance, it's about allowing the individual to still look themselves, only fresher and more youthful. It's important that you educate your clients on what to look for as an end result even if you are not doing this procedure.

I recently wrote an article for a magazine where I warned against morphing into something you don't recognise anymore, and the response from the public was amazing.

Ongoing education and growing your understanding on what else you wish to integrate into your salon or clinic is the key to gaining confidence with medical professionals as well as with consumers. I attend numerous conferences and also do training in other countries, and I have to say that Australia is not behind the rest of the world, in fact in some areas we are even ahead of other countries.

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will impact your business?

Sue: My goal is to incorporate strategies where I can continue to educate my clients on the benefit of the integrative approach and the value of working with me collaboratively to achieve better outcomes.

For example, if there are digestive or hormonal issues that have not been correctly addressed and dealt with, this will disadvantage our treatment results. It is best to get health issues corrected first then we can proceed to achieve results that the body can better support. I use the analogy that if you have been kicked down, why would I kick you further in order to improve your skin?

I know with my own skin I could not achieve the results I wanted until the internal issues were corrected through a qualified healthcare professional. The integrative approach holds one of the main keys to quality treatment outcomes as well as sustaining good results.

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APJ Q5: How do you stay up-to-date with your education?

Sue: I am a perpetual lifelong learner. I constantly read, do my own research, attend conferences and network with like-minded professionals that can enhance my knowledge and understanding on changes and advances in our profession, as well as how to best bring them all together.

APJ Q6: How has the information you gain from APAN help you gain greater clarity and shaped your direction in your practice?

Sue: As an organisation APAN advocates the integrative approach of health, aesthetics and cosmetic medicine. It brings all these disciplines together and delivers information to us through the APJ Journal, and conference programs and it is this professional approach that the organisation advocates and stands for. It is this kindred spirit that resonates with me and this works for me. Having a professional body such as APAN for guidance and inspiration is invaluable.

Skin Inspiration, 2/20 Bungan St, Mona Vale, NSW 2103 Phone:(02) 9979 8832

I also have to say that I consider the APJ Journal as a world-leading publication in how it comprehensively presents the latest scientific approaches to integrative internal health and their relevance to achieving optimal results with external techniques and technologies. I believe that this combined scientific approach with new developments in technologies will define aesthetics in future years and raise it to a new level of recognition.

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APJ Q4: What are your goals for the next 12 months and how do you view the future in terms of how it

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How to navigate through the Traps and Pitfalls of the Start-up Business

By Caroline Nelson In the Winter APJ issue I wrote an article relating to buying an existing salon, spa or clinic business. However, some who wish to go into business don't necessarily want to purchase an existing business, instead they prefer to start a business from scratch. This article looks at who is the ideal person for a start-up business and the potential traps or pitfalls to avoid.

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I guess the most important question to consider is why would you want to start a business rather than buying an existing one? As discussed in my previous article, an existing business with good ongoing profit potential and operating with high performance systems is ideal as it is the safer route to take. However, even if you buy an existing business with all systems in place it will still take you time to learn how to operate it and keep profits constantly flowing. On the other hand, if you are looking at investing in a start-up business the question you need to ask yourself is, are you a person with a good chance of succeeding, especially in what can

only be described as a challenging economy. So let's examine who is and who is not the ideal start-up business operator.

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SUTABILITY CONSIDERATIONS The ideal person would be someone who has both business experience as well as the appropriate qualifications for this profession with a certain level of experience. They would be someone with sufficient funds behind them to not only set the business up in a good location with sufficient equipment stock, and fit-out, but also to have funds for marketing their new venture. They also need to fully understand and realise that it may be 12 months or more before they are showing a profit.

However, what we more often see is someone who can't afford to buy an existing profitable business, in fact has insufficient funds to open in a good location and does not have the funds to appropriately equip, stock, advertise or market the new venture. But still they go ahead in the mistaken belief they will start making a profit immediately and then will have the money to start marketing the business. This is putting the cart before the horse.

ATTRIBUTES FOR SUCCESS But let's say you do have sufficient funds to start your own business along with additional funds to keep it going during the initial start-up phase. What else is an absolute necessity to give both you and the business every chance of succeeding?

You will need the exact same four traits we discussed in my previous issue when I discussed purchasing an existing business. These are: ! Goal-Oriented ! Passionate ! Adaptable, self-reliant and resilient ! Driven In addition, the self-starter needs boundless confidence and be disciplined in keeping focused on making the business work regardless of obstacles or challenges they may come up against.

Having not bought an existing business they will have to create all their own systems as they do not have an operational blueprint for the day-to-day running of the business. They need to keep an open mind to any or all opportunities that may come their way. The self-starter will also need to have business management knowledge or be prepared to seek the support and advice from someone who does possess the necessary skills.

Another necessity is a well-written business plan. Now while all business owners need one it is particularly important for the start-up, and will help guide the business on an effective path towards reaching short, medium and long-term goals. The business plan is a navigational tool to guide the business owner's focus, to prepare for expanding the business, or to help implement new directions, technologies or products. The plan must be flexible and be able to adapt to shifting or changing circumstances.

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A business plan is very important for a start-up because it requires the new business owner to gather information on the treatments, products, market and economic climate. The information is then analysed on how it will affect or impact on the feasibility and success of the business. This will allow the right operational systems to be developed that will ensure their business fits the way they intend to provide services and products to customers.

'drive' the performance of the business. Therefore having sufficient funds for both launch and ongoing marketing is essential.

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Another key section is the financials to include an analysis of cash flow and also include a cash forecast month-by-month for the first 12 months and then quarterly from there on. It would provide financial projections of capital expenditure, operating costs, cash flow, balance sheet and expected profits and/or losses. Good financial planning is the 'blueprint' or road map of how to achieve financial goals, while taking into account and consideration the business’s assets, liabilities and credit standing. It will enable the business owner to be in control of their finances and to make wise decisions.

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While some new start-ups will decide to work on their own during the early stages, if employing staff is a possibility either now or in the future, then developing effective people management skills will be critical. To succeed in this they will need employees who not only have the required qualifications and skills, but who believe in the vision of the business and where the business aims to go.

As the leader the business owner must have the strength of character to set organisational direction and inspire employee loyalty, commitment and involvement.

There is always risk to starting any business, but every effort should be used to minimise these as much as possible. So apart from planning and choosing a good location to establish the business, you will need to also make sure competition is minimal to ensure that the enterprise can be set on a strong path for growth.

Negotiating a fair and reasonable rental, with good lease conditions and options, is also important. Another critical consideration is selecting the right skincare and make-up ranges for the demographics that provide not only high-level results, but high mark-ups and company support.

I would also suggest that a start-up should not over-capitalise with too much equipment in the first 12 months until the business is well established. Remember, the more equipment you have the more training will be needed, and in some circumstances this can put too much pressure on both new employees and the owner. And never compromise the marketing budget by spending too excessively on an overly lavish décor.

In the initial stages some things will be a bit of a trial and error, this is to be expected. That having been said, try to minimise mistakes and wastage. And remember, if you give yourself and/or employees a clear roadmap including priorities then there will be a higher chance of success. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2013

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years’ experience who specialises in beauty coaching for salons and spas. Visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com to see her full selection of beauty industry business tools and upcoming Beauty Development Seminars.

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The vital part of the business plan covers marketing and promotions, selling strategies, pricing and linking this to the results or goals of the business plan. Developing the brand awareness of the business will entail a high level of marketing in the launching stage of the business to attract customers. Ongoing marketing and effective promotions will continue to attract as well as retain customers and will ultimately

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NEW FINDINGS ON VITAMIN D and its role in Health and Immunity An interview with PROFESSOR MICHAEL HOLICK There is a great deal of research on the role of vitamin D as the master nutrient and its amazing role in health and specifically, in supporting the immune system both for the skin and body. At a recent Research Symposium conducted by the highly respected nutritional company BioCeuticals® with the theme Research, Innovation, Reality held in Sydney, several world-renowned scientists shared vital research findings, addressing how these findings can contribute to transforming lives and optimising health to Australians. Among the speakers was Professor Michael F. Holick, who is renowned as a world leader in Vitamin D for human nutrition. We are delighted that he accepted an interview with us to discuss the latest scientific findings with regards to vitamin D and how it can impact health and longevity.

APJ Q1: Professor Holick, can you give us a brief overview of the role of Vitamin D in heath and any new research findings?

Professor Holick: There continues to be new revelations

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about the benefits of vitamin D. Of note is our recent observation that vitamin D supplementation has a direct effect on the immune system regulating 291 genes that control more than 80 metabolic processes, including immune function, DNA repair, response to oxidative stress just to name a few. Our PLOS1 publication can be found on my website, DrHolick.com.

APJ Q2: Can you tell us why you believe a high percentage of Australian are Vitamin D deficient when we have so much sun? What contributes to this deficiency?

Professor Holick: The major cause of vitamin D deficiency is the lack of appreciation that there are very few dietary sources of vitamin D, including ultraviolet light exposed mushrooms and oily fish. The major source of vitamin D is from sun

exposure. A sunscreen within SPF of 30 reduces the ability to produce vitamin D in the skin by as much as 95%. Other causes include increased pigmentation, malabsorption syndromes and using medications like glucocorticoids, anti-seizure medications and AIDS medications can increase the destruction of vitamin D, requiring more to satisfy the body’s requirements.

The recent release of an app dminder.info provides iPhone users with the ability to determine when and how much vitamin D is produced in the skin during sun exposure, and also alerts them when they have been exposed to too much sunlight that could damage skin.

APJ Q3: There is conflicting schools of thought about daily recommended doses. Being that Vitamin D is a fatsoluble vitamin with some saying that 1000 IU is sufficient, while others advocate that we need 8000 IU, what are your thoughts? Also, should women take a different dose to men?

Professor Holick: We conducted a study demonstrating that healthy adults receiving 1000 IUs of vitamin D daily during the winter will not raise blood levels of 25-hydroxyvitamin D into a healthy range, which is a 25-hydroxyvitamin D >75 nmol/l. I personally take 3000 IUs of vitamin D daily throughout the year and I do the same for all my patients. My blood level of 25hydroxyvitamin D is 125 nmol/l. I don't believe 8000 IUs of vitamin D daily is required unless the patient is obese, in which case they often need 2-3 times more vitamin D to satisfy their requirements.

Men and women should take the same amount of vitamin D. I recommend for all children 1000 IUs of vitamin D daily and for adults 2000-3000 IUs daily.

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APJ Q4: What bloodtest levels would indicate that one was deficient and what readings would indicate that one was deficient?

Professor Holick: The only blood test that determines the person's vitamin D status is 25-hydroxyvitamin D. I recommend a minimum level of 75 nmol/l and a preferred range is 100-150 nmol/l. Vitamin D deficiency is defined as a blood level of 25-hydroxyvitamin D <50 nmol/l and vitamin D insufficiency as 51-74 nmol/l.

APJ Q5: In terms of immunity support how does Vitamin D defend the body against cancer and does that also include skin cancer?

Professor Holick: Vitamin D improves the immune system and stimulates not only macrophages, but also activates T. and B. lymphocytes, which can help in immune surveillance for reducing cancer risk.

APJ Q6: How does Vitamin D work in the cells of the body and should we be taking Vitamin D indefinitely. Is there any concern for overdosing and toxicity?

Professor Holick: Essentially every cell in the body has a vitamin D receptor, therefore everyone should be increasing their vitamin D intake from diet and supplements along with getting some sensible sun exposure. Vitamin D toxicity is an extremely rare condition caused by intentional or inadvertent overdosing of vitamin D. An adult would need to take tens of thousands of units of vitamin D daily for several months. Vitamin D toxicity is associated with an elevated serum calcium and can lead to soft-tissue calcification.

Bone Health Care Clinic and the Director of the Vitamin D, Skin and Bone Research Laboratory at Boston University Medical Center. Prof. Holick has made numerous contributions to the field of the biochemistry, physiology, metabolism, and photobiology of vitamin D for human nutrition. He has established global recommendations advising sunlight exposure as an integral source of vitamin D. He has also helped increase awareness in the paediatric and medical communities regarding the vitamin D deficiency pandemic, and its role causing not only metabolic bone disease, and osteoporosis in adults, but increasing risk of children and adults developing a range of conditions.

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ABOUT BIOCEUTICALS The Symposium was hosted by BioCeuticals - Australia's leading provider of practitioner-only nutritional and therapeutic supplements.

BioCeuticals is at the forefront of evidence-based Integrative Medicine, being a proud sponsor of 16 key clinical trials in primary healthcare facilities. BioCeuticals is committed to helping educate healthcare professionals on research and its practical application for better outcomes for their patients.

Renowned for manufacturing and delivering premium quality integrative medicines to healthcare practitioners, BioCeuticals aims to consistently raise the standards of natural-based therapies.

For more information go to www.bioceuticals.com.au

APJ Q7: Can adequate Vitamin D levels be gained from the diet and what foods should we eat for that?

Professor Holick: It is next to impossible to obtain enough vitamin D from the diet. The reason is that throughout evolution humans have depended on the sun for their vitamin D requirement and there was no need for there to be dietary sources unless they lived in the far northern and southern regions of the world, which is why Eskimos used to eat polar-bear liver and seal blubber that contains a high amount of vitamin D.

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APJ Q8: When supplementing with Vitamin D, which is the best source, and are tablet form, capsules or liquid best in terms of bioavailability?

Professor Holick: From my experience it does not

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matter whether vitamin D is in a liquid, capsule or tablet form, they all seem to be equally bioavailable if formulated properly.

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ABOUT PROFESSOR MICHAEL F. HOLICK, PHD, MD

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Professor of Medicine, Physiology and Biophysics; Director of the General Clinical Research Unit; and Director of the

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SILK EYE CONTOUR CREAM

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Patented Double Peptide Complex with HMC Winning the fight against wrinkles

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Dr Horst Spiller pioneered topical peptide technology back in 1973. This innovation secured Spiller's position as an international formulating icon, inspiring and advancing the use of peptide application in modern cosmetic chemistry.

Such ingenuity continued in 2007 with launch of Silk Eye Contour Cream. Containing a blend of double peptide complex, HMC and protein rich silk, the fusion of patented technology with biomimetic replicates creates a synergistic corrective solution.

Silk Eye Contour Cream – is a lifting and firming corrector designed to recontour and tone age aggressed eye zones. Silk Eye Contour Cream replumps and tightens the appearance of fine and mimic lines, while reducing dark circles and puffiness. A reviving cream-gel, this active corrector is amplified with biomimetic hyaluronic acid and retinyl palmitate with barrier function as well as fortifying squalene and lecithin.

HOW DO THE PEPTIDES WORK? A peptide is a building block of a protein and consists of a combination of amino acids. With 20 amino acids found in the human body, peptides and proteins are different combinations and sequences of these acids. A chain of amino acids over 50 is referred to as a protein and a chain under 50 is a peptide. Silk is naturally rich in seresin and fibroin proteins abundant in biomimetic serine and glycine amino acids found naturally in NMF (Natural Moisture Factor) and collagen for increased structure and form.

Researched and developed by one of the world's largest pharmaceutical companies, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7 (Matrixyl) was the first synthetically created amino acid chain (glycine/glutamine/proline/arginine) that has been clinically proven to suppress excess interleukin production, reducing inflammation and glycation. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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The final patented complex in this innovative elixir is

Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone – a synthetic complex designed to reduce blood flow through surface capillaries, reducing the appearance of dark circles. A derivative of the flavonoid hesperidin, this active complex in combination with double peptides forms a triple-action solution that actively targets lines, fatigue, darkness and puffiness. ㄰

Research as recent as early 2013 further indicated Matrixyl's ability to assist in almost doubleing collagen production and enable improve skin elasticity. Puffiness and wrinkles cumulatively reduce with daily application.

Silk Eye Contour Cream – remains an unsurpassed innovator and

Di-peptide 2 – based on an amino acid chain of valine and tryptophan

Dr Spiller products can be purchased from OmniDerm 1300 301 007

designed to stimulate lymphatic drainage to reduce under-eye puffiness and to promote greater water-binding capabilities.

Hydration to the eye area increases reviving and refreshing the contours.

forms a part of the award winning Silk range by Dr Spiller, which also contains Silk Serum and Silk Complex.

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The Gentle Current and Its Ability To Achieve Skin Rejuvenation and Improved Facial Contour

By Tina Viney It has been over 20 years since microcurrent first made its entrance into the Australian aesthetic industry, when it was considered as the ultimate non-surgical face-lifting treatment of choice.

Since then new innovations have seen the launch of numerous devices with light-based technologies such as various lasers and IPL being the current favourite. While these devices offer great results in collagen stimulation and skin rejuvenation, research is now suggesting that photo-induced, heat-based trauma to stimulate collagen density if used extensively does compromise certain cells in the body. The question is are we going too far with just lasers and IPL as the only mode of treatment modalities and should we be incorporating other technologies that pose less or no risk to the skin as part of a mix of technologies to achieve better treatment results?

One thing we do know is that every technology has its limits and therefore the skilful combination of various technologies often delivers the most advantageous, long-lasting outcomes. However, the key to determining the correct sequence and the best combinations has a great deal to do with understanding the physics that govern the technology, and what the technology will deliver to the skin and beyond. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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With such knowledge you can design unique treatment plans that combine lasers or IPL devices with LED, microcurrent, electroporation or even iontophoresis to deliver amazing skin improvement.

For this reason we will be featuring in the next few issue of APJ a series of articles that profile a variety of technologies with valuable information of their history, capabilities and new research findings.

WHY MICROCURRENT? Since the launch of microcurrent there are now numerous new advances in their manufacture. Systems are smaller, with new capabilities that offer fully integrated computerised treatment programs that utilise sequencing technology. These are now able to facilitate maximum lift and product penetration, giving more significant long-lasting results in comparison to their predecessors.

WHAT IS MICROCURRENT AND HOW DOES IT WORK? Originally developed in the U.S. in the late 1980s, microcurrent therapy was used to treat facial weakness in victims of Bell's Palsy and strokes, muscular injuries (especially for athletes), and also used by physiotherapists for pain relief (TENS machines).

Consisting of gentle waveforms that match the innate electrical activity of the body, microcurrent technology works hand-in-hand with electrical activities i.e. GSR (skin), EEG (brain),EKG (heart) and EMG (muscles). It recognises the body as a self-healing organism and supports its many naturally occurring functions, achieving various results in many facets of youth, health and wellness.

Microcurrent uses a direct current that travels in a wave form. It has very low amperage and generally the client feels next to nothing during a treatment. Microcurrent systems use a combination of different wave shapes, hertz and currents, which are simultaneously directed through single or dual-tipped probes into the muscle or skin tissue.

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HEALING WITH MICROCURRENT

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The human body is an electrical being and the health of it depends on the energy currents that run through the body. When the body suffers a

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trauma (acne, cuts, sprains, etc) it encapsulates itself for healing purposes (inflammation, swelling, spasm, etc.) During a healing crisis such as those mentioned, normally free-flowing currents will circumvent the area of trauma and travel around it.

This happens because electrical current always takes the path of least resistance. As a result the flow of electricity in the traumatised area is significantly reduced or possibly void. At this point the body as a self-healing organism is not recovering optimally.

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Coupled with trauma and a healing crisis, the details of the body's needs are now more severe. In order to return to a homeostatic condition the body must regenerate and heal itself.

This process begins within the body at the cellular level. The injured cells need increased oxygen, protein synthesis ion exchange and adenosine triphosphate (ATP). The polarity of the cells must be rebalanced, wastes and toxins must be eliminated quickly and the absorption of nutrients is required to restore homeostasis.

Microcurrent stimulates the production of ATP, which is stored cellular energy that allows a cell to function. This in turn triggers the body's natural bio-chemical healing process, allowing intra-cellular fluids to be restored, electrolyte levels to be replenished and the absorption of nutrients. The stimulation of intra-cellular calcium further strengthens cellular balance and healing. Amino acid uptake is increased as well as protein synthesis, which assists in tissue repair.

Blood circulation and lymphatic flow are increased. These vital functions are increased fivefold with microcurrent technology to promote optimal healing and regeneration of cells and tissue.

HISTORY OF THE MICROCURRENT INSTRUMENT To fully appreciate microcurrent a little background history can be useful, so here is a glimpse of how it all came about.

Thomas W. Wing, a fifth-generation Chinese doctor, is credited with introducing a microcurrent instrument in the late 1970s. According to Dr. Wing it all started when the doors opened to acupuncture after President Nixon's visit to China in 1972. Almost overnight thousands of doctors were interested in all forms of acupuncture. One of these methods was adding current to the acupuncture needles to create a more potent application. This method was seldom comfortable because it induced intense stinging, so a few members of Dr.Wing’s study group suggested they should find a better way to utilise electrical acupuncture methods.

Dr. Wing had a little background in electronics and felt competent to take on the challenge. Diagnostics called galvanic skin differentials are accredited to Dr. Reinhold Voll, a West German physician. He introduced GSR (galvanic skin response) as a feature in his electroacupuncture devices in 1958. Practioners believing in the Chinese system of 12 Meridians in the body believed that these differentials in readings related to energy imbalances.

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Using an instrument by Dr. Voll became referred to as EAV (Electrical Acupuncture by Voll). Dr. Voll also used the system of treating ear points used by ancient Egyptians and the Chinese, which related to specific parts in the body. New ear charts were developed by a French phsycian, Dr. Paul Nogier, in 1951 along with experimentation with new frequencies for a form of electrical ear acupuncture called Auriculotherapy. Dr. Nogier's ear charts reflect over 200 points, while the Chinese ear charts use a simpler system of 130 points. The first Dr. Voll EAV devices tried encompassing all possible points, which was approximately 850, thus the first diagnostic scales read from 0-1000.

By the 70s most of these devices went to a simpler system by reducing the scale from 0-100.

Dr. Wing used this type of diagnostic feature along with lowering the voltage on his unit and current levels were adjusted to the microamperage range. Then a wider range of very low frequencies was added. In 1975 Dr. Wing introduced what was known as the first comfortable US-made non-needle acupuncture (Surface Electrical Acupuncture) instrument with diagnostics. Needles were replaced by pencil-looking items with brass tips and later converted to Q-Tip ends to just touch the surface of the skin. He called this the Accu-O-Matic that stood for accurate and automatic. Dr. Wing’s instruments created quite a stir. Physicians flocked to learn about this method and were so impressed with the results they were quick to incorporate them in their practices.

Then in the USA in 1977 as a result of the Medical Device Act of May 28, 1976 the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) informed Dr. Wing he could not use ear point charts to treat because they were claiming to cure conditions. In 1978 FDA agents visited again and said acupuncture had not been "proven safe and effective" in the experimental use period of one year. However, the FDA told Dr. Wing he could reapply with his instrument under the 1976 Medical Device and Cosmetology Act if he took the reading portion of the unit and now referred to it as an electrical acupuncture device.

This new model in 1980 became the My-O-Matic, which added a new wave form and was found beneficial in the treatments of muscles to lengthen, shorten and strengthen. It was approved as a muscle stimulator. It also found new life in the cosmetology industry for facial toning and wrinkle reduction. By this time there were several other companies offering exact internal copies. For example: Accuscope/ Myopluse, Alpha Stim and many others. All suffered from pressures from the FDA for marketing issues. Many of these early companies did not survive.

Worldwide recognition began when athletes like Carl Lewis began using microcurrent, claiming it as the latest and greatest of physical therapy treatments. Many articles recognised the benefits of microcurrent and progressively the technology gained acceptance and popularity. Today it is a highly researched, modality particularly for its healing properties. 4

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BENEFITS OF MICROCURRENT For cosmetic purposes microcurrent is now used for its ability to deliver the following benefits. These include:

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1. Increases blood flow

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As people age, the number and size of the capillaries supplying oxygen and vital nutrients to the dermis decrease, causing the cells of the skin to gradually begin to diminish in size and function. By stimulating blood flow the skin is re-energised.

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Microcurrent stimulates and speeds up the rate at which the skin produces its own connective tissue fibres, as well as collagen and elastin, therefore increasing the supportive framework of the dermis.

3. Stimulates ATP It stimulates and speeds up the rate at which the body produces its muscle protein, adenosine triphosphate synthesis, reducing the ageing effect on muscle tissue and muscle atrophy. As people progress in age the skin starts to deteriorate due to a number of issues, including gravity, genetics, poor skincare, sun exposure, poor nutrition and stress. Additionally, the 30 facial muscles attached directly below the skin's surface lose their elasticity, become weaker and over time begin to sag. This makes it more difficult for the muscles to support the skin covering them, and finally results in the appearance of wrinkles, creases and folds.

4. Re-educates muscles Microcurrent re-sculpts and re-educates the muscle tissue by lengthening or shortening as necessary, utilising the Golgi Tendon Organ Technique. Repeated expressions result in a strengthening and shortening of contractive muscles and a weakening and stretching of the distended muscles, once again creating those ever-dreaded wrinkles and creases.

To assist you to further understand how microcurrent can achieve these benefits I will attempt to keep my information on a basic level and explain how this current penetrates deep into the skin and muscles, how long that penetration is maintained, and the effect it has on the skin and muscles, which rely on three things – waveform, frequency/hertz and current (amperage).

WAVEFORM Electricity is like water – it travels in waves. The typical waveform used in microcurrent devices is called envelope waveform because it has four distinguished sides and looks like and envelope. The waveforms vary in length of time that they allow the current to flow.

Gentle has the longest duration that the current can flow and the pulse waveform has the shortest duration of current flow. In general, microcurrent systems utilise four major waveforms:

1. Gentle Waveform With this waveform the current peaks slowly, is maintained at its peak for a longer period of time than other waveforms, and slowly decreases. This waveform is usually used to 're-sculpt' and 're-educate' the deep muscle layer and generally works at a lower frequency.

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This waveform, as compared to the gentle waveform, rises to its peak quicker, maintains its peak for a shorter duration of time and decreases quicker. This waveform is usually used to 're-sculpt' and 're-educate' the more superficial muscle layer, and works at a higher level of current.

4. Pulse Waveform This waveform, much like the sharp waveform, peaks almost instantly, however, its peak is maintained for a much shorter time and again decreases as instantly as it raised. This waveform is usually used for product penetration, to increase blood circulation and to help eliminate the toxins in the skin through lymphatic drainage.

FREQUENCY/HERTZ Hertz refers to the number of electrical impulses per second.

Understanding the frequency or hertz is the key to a successful nonsurgical facelift utilising microcurrent. The frequency is carried and controlled by the waveform to reach varied depths of penetration, and the frequency will have a different effect on skin than muscle.

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Refers to the flow of electrons along a conductor, in this case with microcurrent that uses the probes to measure the amperage.

Amperage is the number of electrons that pass a given point within one second. The longer you apply the current the further it will travel.

As we have already discussed, the high-end microcurrent equipment usually offers fully computerised pre-programmed systems removing these areas of doubt. If utilising a manual system it is imperative that you have a full understanding of microcurrent, waveforms, frequency and current, and that continued careful monitoring is maintained at all times.

Many of us when thinking of non-surgical facelifts, conjure images of electrodes or pads being placed on insertion and exertion points of the face and neck muscles and the equipment being turned up to a point that it is 'bearable'. These systems are in effect classed as E.M.S. (electro-muscle stimulation) machines. They use a higher level of current (generally requiring a 240 volt supply) and the principal technique that they work under is a strong current used to involuntarily force repeated muscular contraction and expansion.

This leads to a shortening and thickening of the muscle tissue, which gives a 'lifted' effect.

However, true microcurrent systems work on the Golgi Tendon Organ Technique (which we touched on earlier when mentioning muscle resculpting and re-educating). The Golgi Tendon Organ Technique reeducates the muscle by changing the brain’s perceived length of the muscle by either shortening or lengthening the muscle according to its position. This technique is achieved by placing the probes (and therefore applying the current) to the nerve endings located at the musclotendonous junction and either moving the probes away from each other (lengthening the muscle) or bringing the probes towards each other (shortening the muscle). This technique does not therefore, create involuntarily force repeated muscular contraction and expansion, and these treatments are comfortable without any pain.

To illustrate, let's say we are presented with a client that has lines in the forehead and lower jowl sag. The lines in the forehead have appeared because through continual facial expression the muscle has shortened.

Using the G.T.O. Technique we will lengthen this muscle, putting it back into its original position. The lower jowl sag has appeared due to gravity and muscle atrophy. Using the G.T.O. Technique, we will shorten this muscle, thus creating a lifting effect.

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3. Sharp Waveform

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CURRENT (AMPERAGE)

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This waveform peaks almost instantly, maintains its peak for the same length of time as the mild waveform and decreases as instantly as it raised. This waveform is usually used to speed up the rate at which the skin produces its own connective tissue, increases blood circulation and helps eliminate the toxins in the skin through lymphatic drainage.

So, what are the results that can be expected from a microcurrent treatment?

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A significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles A softening of the deeper lines A gentle firming of skin and muscle tissue

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A significant increase of oxygenated blood in the dermis, muscle and skin tissue A significant increase in the production of collagen and elastin Increased skin smoothness A significant increase in the skin’s hydration A gentle increase in muscle tone

FREQUENCY OF TREATMENT It is important to understand that microcurrent gently works on the skin and muscles at a cellular level. In doing so it stimulates both blood and lymph that improve nutrients and oxygen to the skin, while assisting to eliminate wastes. It also works on the nerves to assist with more efficient muscle contraction or expansion and tone. This is achieved at a very slow and progressive rate similar to exercising– you will feel and see an immediate result from the first session or treatment, but more visible and long-lasting results will require a course of treatments.

Microcurrent is gentle, but when delivered incrementally at the appropriate proximity will deliver results. Treatment frequency should commence as regular as 2-3 per week for the first four weeks followed by one treatment per week until you reach the desired outcome of lifting and toning. After that, one treatment every 4-6 weeks will help in maintaining the results. To determine the best possible results, a full skin and facial analysis will need to be conducted to establish the treatment objectives.

When combined with IPL and LED it is amazing what changes you can achieve. The exact number of treatments required will depend upon the muscle tone, skin type and condition and what other services are being conducted within the treatment package.

Results will also depend on the client's commitment to the program, maintaining a good skincare regime at home that you will prescribe, and the all-important factor of moderation in smoking, alcohol, sun exposure, a healthy, well-balanced diet and adequate amounts of sleep.

RESEARCH FINDINGS

to include here, however, just a few papers I would like to name from recent studies on the benefits of microcurrent include research findings on conditions such as in the healing of diabetes-related wounds1, wound health after skin grafting2 and, transforming growth factor-beta 1 secretion by human dermal fibroblasts and the U937 human monocytic cell line3. However, the most prevalent studies are on muscular pain management. There is also a new interesting study and treatment by Dr Edward Kondrot in the US who has developed a novel treatment using a very low microcurrent frequency that assists in improving eyesight in macular degeneration and other eye disorders.

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I am not aware of any substantial independent studies specifically for skin rejuvenation, however, the plethora of studies that support its benefit for pain management and health improvement validate that it is a credible technology in offering numerous benefits to the human body – and in fact for effective pain management for animals.

Meanwhile, for aesthetic purposes, there are thousands of successful microcurrent practitioners who are achieving great results with specific techniques and the appropriate frequency of treatments delivered. You will also find interesting techniques shared on YouTube for eye lifting, lips, neck and jaw and general facelifting.

As a technology microcurrent is experiencing a resurgence of interest.

With new protocols and used in conjunction with other modalities, it is a valuable piece of equipment that offers credible results for facial toning and skin rejuvenation.

REFERENCES 1. Use of wireless microcurrent stimulation for the treatment of diabetesrelated wounds: 2 case reports. Ramadhinara A, Poulas K. 2. Wound closure after split-thickness skin grafting is accelerated with the use of continuous direct anodal microcurrent applied to silver nylon wound contact dressings. Huckfeldt R, Flick AB, Mikkelson D, Lowe C, Finley PJ. 3. Electrical stimulation of transforming growth factor-beta 1 secretion by human dermal fibroblasts and the U937 human monocytic cell line. Todd I, Clothier RH, Huggins ML, Patel N, Searle KC, Jeyarajah S, Pradel L, Lacey KL. 4.History of Microcurrent by Deborah Powell printed by permission.

There are currently numerous research papers conducted that validate the benefit of microcurrent for healing benefits – far too many for me

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APJ 87

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ADVANCED SERUMS FOR A TARGETED CELLULAR APPROACH

EGF-DNA Recovery Concentrate

by ClinicalPRO is a highly efficient cell division factor with a variety of biological activities. It can repair epidermis, delay ageing, fade skin discolouration, inhibit wrinkles and hydrate the skin. The content of Epidermal Growth Factor in the body determines how old the skin is. To improve the EGF content recommend your clients to use EGF-DNA Recovery Concentrate morning and evening on clean skin and immediately after any peel treatments, IPL/Laser treatments and microneedling, or prior to application of a mask during professional treatments to obtain amazing visible results.

NEW De-Pigmentation Creme

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Advance corrective procedures require a multi-disciplinary approach, not only to sustain change at a cellular level, but also to support continued skin improvement for immediate and long-term results. As leaders in both clinical skincare and medical-grade equipment modalities ClinicalPRO understands, the importance of cellular support to enhance corrective skin procedures delivered in a timely manner. Their leading formulations utilise scientifically validated ingredients introduced to the skin through advanced delivery systems targeting specific cellular levels to ensure immediate and best practice treatment outcomes. Here they profile four of their leading serums:

EGF-DNA Recovery Concentrate & Crème

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ClinicalPRO has launched a new pigmentation-fighting formulation, De-Pigmentation Crème, using a new plant extract called Hinokitiol.

Hinokitiol has been proven to inhibit tyrosinase activity, a key enzyme in melanin synthesis. An added response is the reduction of the transcription factor that orchestrates melanin production, known as the MITF expression. This formulation is not photo-sensitive, and the synergistic action of its active ingredients prevents and treats various types of skin discolouration, working well on melasma, solar lentigo and postinflammation hyper-pigmentation.

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Vitamin A Advanced Repair Serum with Natural Retinaldehyde A new innovative non-irritating topical treatment with amazing benefits for a variety of skin conditions has just been launched by C l i n i c a l P R O . V I TA M I N A Advanced Repair Serum with Natural Retinaldehyde is a unique formula containing natural Retinaldehyde, a stable form of Retinoic Acid that produces excellent results in fighting the signs of wrinkles and ageing skin, as well as acne, rosacea, discolouration and pigmentation. Its unique patented technology brings you a perfect balance of natural Retinal with natural Cyclodextrin, resulting in a product without topical irritation but with enhanced benefits.

Vitamin C Zesty Cellular Repair Serum This calming and repairing serum contains a complex of hydrolysed wheat and soy protein combined with Tripeptide-1, which has proven UVB protection of cells from photodamage, while selectively boosting synthesis of Collagen 11 to help reduce the appearance of ageing on the skin. ClinicalPRO Vitamin C Zesty Cellular Repair Serum is great for reducing puffiness around the eyes, improving the appearance of skin structure, preventing free radical damage, repairing and stabilising cell membranes to help prevent future damage. Other notable benefits include plumping, hydrating and extending longevity and healthy appearance of the skin due to plant stem cell extracts in the formula.

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For further information on ClinicalPRO products | P: 1800 628 999 | W: www.clinicalpro.com.au

APJ 89

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Everyday Makeup that treats your skin while you wear it!

SkinO2 offers a premium “cosmedical” makeup range that is good for the skin. A specialised doctor's formula makeup that synergistically combines the benefits of quality skincare in the form of makeup. Dr Atia's Makeup contains the highest content of natural minerals, combined with potent active vitamins and anti-ageing peptides to help treat the skin, while you wear it! SkinO2 makeup contains unique formulations to help achieve healthier, youthful and radiant-looking skin. No animal testing, no nanoparticles, with a high percentage of natural organic clinically proven ingredients. The SkinO2 cosmedical makeup also contains natural mineral sun protection (UVA & UVB) and clever adaptatone technology so it looks and feels natural on all skin types, including male clients, while providing exceptional coverage. SkinO2 Cosmedical Makeup opening orders start from $2,500 and APJ readers can get $400 credit this month towards their salon makeup opening orders if you mention this article. Phone Skin O2 on 07 5593 4488.

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LOOK YEARS YOUNGER Organic Rosehip Ageless Facelift Pack Six full-sized active skincare products are included in the Organic Rosehip Ageless Facelift pack. Containing organic rosehip oil with 77% linoleic and linolenic acids and rich in natural Vitamin C, these formulations are sure to transform even the most mature, dry and dehydrated skins. Essential fatty acids in their bioavailable form are known to soothe, calm and restore skin tone and elasticity by improving hydration levels and nutrition to the skin. The Organic Rosehip Ageless Facelift Pack is excellent for most skin types, including sensitive and eczema skin conditions. The skin will benefit from the purity and the effective delivery of vital actives, leaving it healthylooking and more radiant. Phone Organic

Rosehip Skincare 1300 552 386 Email: info@rosehipskincare.com

Lead the way with anti-ageing skincare results with SKIN O2 PROFESSIONAL RANGE

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Do you want to be an anti-ageing skin therapist and provide the latest anti-ageing treatments at your clinic? Discover the total professional package that will help you achieve amazing in-clinic Skin O2 treatments. With Dr Atia's leading treatment protocols, your clients or patients can enjoy immediate visible skin improvement, while maintaining their results through highquality cosmedical homecare. Originally formulated for doctors and paramedical professionals, Dr Atia's Skin O2 range is based on cutting-edge clinically proven cosmedical ingredients known to regenerate, restore and renew the skin from deep within.

Discover the next generation anti-ageing peptides, advanced botanicals, high-dose vitamins and transdermal formulations as well as fruit acid peels that restore skin plumpness, hydration and firmness and achieve amazing improvement for skin and body.

Experience the difference and benefit from Dr Atia's worldclass, expert, cosmedical training and support and embrace a fresh new approach in quality skin and body patient care. The SkinO2 Salon Get Professional start-up kits with full professional stock for 1-2 treatment rooms begin at $1,250, with potential profits of $25,000.

For enquiries Ph: SkinO2 on 07 5593 4488 and get your anti-ageing treatment menu started today.

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The perfect solution for Eczema and Sensitive Skin The Organic Rosehip Eczema Pack formulated by Nancy Evans was developed due to her son's skin eczema caused by harmful chemicals in the environment. This inspired her to deliver 100% pure organic ingredients to nourish, rebalance and restore hydration and calm to eczema skin conditions. The Organic Rosehip Eczema Pack is formulated to relieve itchiness and inflammation from the skin, offering one of the most effective treatment options available on the market today.

The pack includes four products: 1.The Organic Cleansing Bar – to cleanse and moisturise without drying 2. Face & Body Peel – excellent for drawing out toxins and impurities 3. Organic Noni Cream – is a natural source of nutrients and antioxidants, rich in Vitamins C, E, B1, B2, B3, B6, B12, Magnesium, Calcium, Zinc, Iron, Copper, Protein, Potassium and more 4. Rosehip Body Care oil – is rich in vitamin C and antioxidants to restore hydration to the skin throughout the day.

Contact Organic Rosehip Skincare 1300 552 386 Email: info@rosehipskincare.com

NEW: Super Hair Removal IPL Technology The new system combines laser technology and the benefits of pulsating light to remove hair at a faster, more effective rate. Difficult hairs can be treated through InMotion IPL for operator speed, patient comfort and better protection of the skin. It achieves this by providing a gradual thermal rise to the target therapeutic temperature without risk of injury. It eliminates the common problem of missed or skipped areas with comprehensive coverage to legs, arms and backs. Normal IPL with Multipulse modes focuses energy on one pulse, so it is easy to burn the client, however, SHR emits a single pulse mode for safer treatments. The SHR filters violet light, while infrared light will absorb water targeting the skin with no side effects. SHR accelerates operation speed and shortens the time for treatments with 1-10Hz. Moving the head along the skin with a faster repetition rate of shots fired per millisecond requires less time per treatment. Call Bodilite Systems & Solutions on 07

5477 6738 Email: info@bodilite.com.au

Smooth Affair™ Facial Primer & Brightener The Look radiant… The Feel uplifting!

To ensure a perfect finished makeup a makeup primer is a must! Formulated to smooth, brighten and enhance your natural beauty! Smooth Affair Facial Primer and Brightener has anti-ageing properties that even skin tone, minimise the appearance of pores and increase luminosity – a great primer to smooth and nourish the skin. Use Smooth Affair under foundation to allow makeup to glide on more easily and last longer. This product has a light, fresh fragrance that is uplifting. To apply use fingertips to spread evenly until primer has been absorbed. This product can be used with or without your favourite moisturiser for healthy-looking, radiant skin. For more information or to find out how to become a

jane iredale stockist, call 1300 SKINCARE or visit www.margifox.com.au

Live in Full Bloom – NEW PureMoist™ Lipstick from jane iredale, in 24 moisturising shades ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Vivid pigments blend with nourishing natural oils and superfruit extracts in the NEW PureMoist™ Lipstick from jane iredale THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP® for petal-soft lips that feel, look and taste amasing. Ripe, juicy colours saturate the lips while the proven soothing properties of moringa oil moisturise. Orange peel wax, avocado and sunflower seed oils give a luxurious, conditioned and quenched feeling to the lips. Vitamins A and C and coffee seed extract infuse the delicate lip area with antioxidant protection. The organic pomegranate and blackberry fruit extracts are unique, luscious flavours that stimulate the senses. The 24 versatile shades dress the lips with high-impact colour and sumptuous depth. The continuously creamy, rich and smooth formula glides on easily for long-lasting hold. The sleek tube is designed for easy and precise application. PureMoist Lipstick will be available in Australia from October 2013.

For more information or to find out how to become a jane iredale stockist, call 1300 SKINCARE or visit www.margifox.com.au

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APJ 91

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CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS UNSTRESS PROBIOTIC DAY CREAM

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The effective solution for health-challenged skin ㈵

AHAVA DERMUD NOURISHING BODY CREAM A treatment cream for the body

Skin that is health-challenged needs special care and consideration. This is particularly pertinent to skin that is inflamed, sensitive and damaged.

UNTRESS Probiotic Day Cream with SPF 12 is the ideal daycare for skin with a compromised and disturbed barrier function. This soothing cream protects and calms stressed skin from environmental damages and internal influences. It is enriched with deep penetrating antioxidant peptides that support DNA protection and cell function and prevent collagen damage. UNSTRESS diminishes the effects of inflammation and soothes irritated skin, while restoring moisture levels to the skin. UNSTRESS is highly recommend for clients with rosacea, diabetes, and various forms of dermatitis. For further details contact

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Skin Factors Ph: 1800 824 282 or visit www.ahava.com.au

This amazing body cream provides deep nourishment, intense hydration and acute care for dry, itchy, cracked and inflamed skin.

Recommend for psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis as well as during and post radiation and chemotherapy. This product has also been “Approved for Use by Diabetics” by several societies, as has the entire AHAVA Dermud body care range. All AHAVA body and spa care products are more than pampering. Each product has been researched and developed with meticulous care in the same way as their facial care products in order to impart true skin health benefits.

For further details contact Skin Factors Ph: 1800 824 282 or visit www.ahava.com.au

After a long wait, Mirabella Beauty welcomes the arrival of its popular

Colour Luxe Lip Gloss in LUSTRE!

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Successful Body Sculpturing with SLIMLUX V2 Ground-breaking design equips the Slimlux V2™ fat cavitation machine with four different cellulite and fat reduction functions that aim to blast away fat, reduce cellulite and tighten the skin. Other benefits of this all-in-one body sculpting device includes technology to smooth the appearance of scars and wrinkles, stimulate production of new collagen and invigorate blood and lymphatic flow to unveil over a course of treatments, a rejuvenated, toned and more youthful appearance. Contact The Global Beauty Group on 1300

660 687 or visit www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au

This sparkly hue applies clear, giving lips a glamorous glow with three-dimensional, light-reflecting shimmer. In addition to the high-shine finish, Colour Luxe contains a patented anti-ageing peptide to restore lip tissue, boost collagen and retain moisture. Monoi de Tahiti acts as a natural barrier against dehydration, while jojoba oil conditions lips.

“The Colour Luxe formula is packed with good-for-you antioxidants, such as Vitamins A, C and E, as well as pomegranate extract,” says Amber Bowen, Mirabella Creative Director. “The combination of iridescent and pearlescent pearls gives lips a star-like effect that's longlasting and transfer-resistant.

“Lustre applies clear, but the intense shimmer of the formula makes the finish high-impact. Wearing this gloss over a bare lip really showcases the sparkle, and extending the gloss line slightly outside the lip makes the mouth appear fuller,” adds Jasmine Dashtizad, Mirabella National Trainer. “The custom applicator combines the benefits of a brush and flocked sponge, resulting in precise and controlled application. I recommend using Lustre to complement bolder eye makeup, such as an ombré effect using the new Colour Queen Daring Duos.” Phone

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Absolute Spa 1300 262 275 or visit www.absolutespa.com.au

APJ 92

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NEW Skin Care by d'vine® Internet protected, Chiral corrected ingredients, paraben free, 100% markup

FASTLUX combining bipolar radio frequency and IPL The Fastlux™ IPL machine now comes with advanced E-Light Technology that combines bipolar radio frequency, intense pulse light and skin contact cooling to deliver a variety of popular beauty treatments, including permanent hair reduction, removal of skin discolouration and blemishes, anti-ageing skin rejuvenation and targeted treatment of acne and rosacea. The Fastlux™ IPL machine works effectively on even soft, thin hair and discomfort during treatment that is significantly lower than traditional IPL applications thanks to the radio frequency and skin-cooling system technology.

Contact The Global Beauty Group on 1300 660 687 or visit www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au

Launched at the recent Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo d'vine® skincare ranged distributed by Dynamic Skin Solutions brings a new exciting concept to the incredible world of professional skincare.

Made from the finest wine, grape and vine essences, skincare by d'vine® evokes the lushness of vineyards for spas, salons and medical spas looking to set themselves apart. The world's most complete vine therapy collection offers products for face, body, hand and foot treatments for women, and an exclusive line for men. d'vine® includes both professional products with signature treatments and retail products for continued results and benefits. d'vine® products are loaded with beneficial antioxidants, polyphenols, flavonoids, resveratrol and other nutrients that replenish and revitalise the skin. All d'vine® products are paraben free and encourage healthy skin cell rejuvenation through the introduction of safe and chirally correct ingredients. The concentration of natural antioxidants in the d'vine® complex eliminate the need for chemical preservatives. They offer a spa experience, with medical-grade results! Contact: Dynamic Skin Solutions Phone: 02 9525 8368

VITAMIN A + E 50/50 Time release at its best

Email: info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au

Intensive skin repair and rejuvenation

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Alpha-H have launched an intensive nighttime restorative treatment targeting ageing, thickened, pigmented and acne-scarred skins.

ALPHA-H VITAMIN A + E 50/50 is a synergistic duo formula of Retinol and Retinyl Propionate that is accepted into the skin slowly, encouraging a gentle response deep within the epidermis for supercharged benefits. Ferulic Acid has the ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity, therefore allowing it to reduce skin ageing and hyperpigmentation at its core. The time-release delivery of these exceptional ingredients encourages: tissue regeneration, collagen production, boosts the immune system and accelerates cell repair.

For these and other effective celltargeting products phone ALPHA-H 1800 659 777 or 07 5529 4866.

LIQUID GOLD The Gold Standard for Skin Renewal This cult skin resurfacing treatment essentially tricks the skin into behaving like it is years younger. It treats and prepares the skin for further treatment procedures such as Photo Dynamic Therapy, Laser and IPL. By starting the skin's natural wound-healing response Liquid Gold triggers the skin to produce its own collagen and Hyaluronic Acid to make its own moisture.

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For these and other effective cell-targeting products phone ALPHA-H 1800 659 777 or 07 5529 4866.

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APJ 93

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The Constantly changing Skin and the Value of

ASSESSMENT AND REVIEW

By Tess Walls With changes in season most of us undertake a “wardrobe review” to determine changes in our clothing that will best suit the changing temperatures. For example, at the end of the summer months I generally move out the clothing that I have been wearing in the warmer weather and move in clothing more suitable for layering as we transition into the cooler months ahead.

With this in mind how many of us encourage our clients to do the same with their skincare? I guess with the skin, I am not just referring to external (seasonal) changes, but also to possible internal changes due to other influencing factors, such as stress, hormonal changes or even health issues.

It is vital that we are constantly assessing our clients’ skin, as we can never assume that what we prescribed during their last visit is what their skin needs now, as not only does the weather change, but often so do their stress levels or other systemic changes they may be undergoing.

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I spoke to a client recently who had been having a few issues with her skin and it turned out that she had, during the past three months, developed a food intolerance. As we discussed her skin issues in more detail she brought this up and this was the missing link that I was looking for. This was just another example of how there are so many things that can affect our skin, and it highlights the importance of a thorough review and questioning at the beginning of each treatment to ensure every possible issue that is contributing to any changes in the skin are identified, in order that correct treatment and skincare recommendations can be determined. So that brings me back to where it all started – the client consultation.

SKIN ASSESSMENT AND REVIEW ㈵

To ensure that you have “all the pieces of the puzzle” you must ask the correct questions to allow you to probe for all the relevant information so that you can identify the problem, discuss the reasons why the client is experiencing this problem and suggest the

appropriate solution to their problem. These three key steps (Problem, Reason and Solution) are the vital points to ensuring you deliver a great client experience and help your client's skin to continually improve.

So let's look at an example of how we can put this into place. I was assessing a client recently who had quite deep lines, especially on her cheeks and mid-face area. She was only in her late 40s and I was intrigued as to why her skin had aged prematurely. The more questions I asked the more the pieces of the puzzle came together and we finely identified that these wrinkles had started to appear when her daughter had been diagnosed with cancer. This was an extremely traumatic time for her and the shock was too much for her system to bear and so her body's ability to renew and repair was severely hindered – resulting in her skin ageing extensively in just a few months.

She was a lady that had always looked after her skin, and I feel if her skin therapist at the time has assessed her skin and her circumstances correctly and prescribed products to fight this extreme skin deterioration then her skin may not have suffered as badly.

So now that I had identified the problem and the reason for the deterioration my next step was to recommend a solution both for her salon treatments and homecare. My solution for this type of deterioration included the use of the following ingredients: Peptides, Pro-collagestine-Fill, Plant Stem Cells and Retinol as these would improve tone and elasticity as well as stimulate and support cell renewal. ㄰

For my professional treatment I selected Germaine de Capuccini's Timexpert Rides treatment (better known in Australia as “Better Than Botox”). This treatment works with two peptides – Hexapeptide to minimise the messages from the neurosensor to the muscle and in turn reducing movement in the area that will cause expression lines and skin deterioration. It also contains Pentapeptide that plums the skin and reduces the length and depth of the wrinkles. To rebuild the extracellular matrix the treatment also contains Pro-collagestine-Fill. The main components of this are alkylamides, which are capable of activating the

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APJ 94

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biomechanical functions of the fibroblasts, which recover the contractile and synthesis capacity of the main components of the dermis, repair the fibres of the extracellular matrix and rebuild the “architecture” of the skin to repair damage that has occurred previously. This treatment delivers great results after just one treatment, and I have included some before and after photos of a treatment that was performed on another client below.

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Before and After Results achieved after one treatment

HOMECARE The second and most essential part of the solution is in fact the homecare prescription. This is important so that we can support and intensify the result achieved in the salon with daily application of these ingredients, otherwise the client is wasting their money. For this client I would recommend the use of a skin-prepping cleanser and lotion. I love to use ones with a high percentage hyaluronic acid.

I would then recommend the use of a serum containing all the ingredients I have used in my in-salon treatment. A serum is a must in any homecare prescription to regenerate the extracellular matrix and stimulate cell renewal. I then follow the serum with a treatment cream (again containing the ingredients I have used in my professional treatment) and, of course, I always follow with an SPF 30 or 50 emulsion, as I prefer the use of a light-textured SPF. These are hard to find, but once you find one and introduce it to your clients they sell extremely well.

With the correct diagnosis to identify the problem and determine the reason you are then able to select the right treatment that will deliver the necessary solution. With these three simple steps you will be able to achieve success each and every time with your treatments. The skin will then need to be further supported with the appropriate homecare ingredients to ensure you deliver the ultimate results.

If you believe you would like further help in achieving ongoing success with your treatments please feel free to contact me.

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Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 20 years’ experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business step-by-step. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves imparting her knowledge to others. She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional client services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success.

She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including they Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems. If you believe that Tess can help you grow your business phone 1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876.

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HydraFacial is continuing its ongoing growth in Australia with its unique technology that delivers the results of an advanced multi-stage facial without the side-effects of more aggressive treatments.

Aesthetic clinics across Australia have achieved success with the system and have clients excited with the results that HydraFacial delivers for their skin.

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The success in Australia has followed ongoing achievements in the USA where HydraFacial recently was recently voted LNE & Spa's Machine of the Year for the third year running. The secret to HydraFacial's success is that it consistently delivers results for all skin types and clients walk out feeling an immediate, undeniable improvement in their skin. Importantly, they keep coming back for more.

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HydraFacial Voted “Machine of the Year” third year in a row while its Success Continues To Grow In Australia High Tech Laser's Matt Moncrieff said clinics preferred HydraFacial because it provided instant results and increased client retention. “We have seen HydraFacial used in diverse locations, but the theme is consistent. The HydraFacial is different and it instantly gives the client skin that looks and feels great.”

Rhiannon Nichols of Just Magic Skin Care Clinic in Queensland said the HydraFacial was the most popular treatment in her clinic and has achieved great results from both a clinical and a business perspective.

“HydraFacial is one treatment that all my clients love and repeatedly keep coming back for. The results I have achieved with clients are beyond what I could have expected when I bought the machine.“ “The HydraFacial treatments can be tailored for almost any skin type and clients feel an instant, positive change in their skin. You don't need a sales pitch. You just perform a HydraFacial treatment and let them feel their skin. They often can't stop touching their skin. The silky smooth feeling they experience for days sells the treatment for you and will keep them revisiting your clinic for more.”

SKIN HEALTH FOR LIFE™ PROGRAM RESONATES WITH CLIENTS A key feature of HydraFacial's success in clinics is that the results clients can see and feel after each treatment drive word of mouth referrals. Matt Moncrieff said these results, and the HydraFacial Skin Health For Life™ program, made the system easy to market.

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“The Skin Health For Life™ program is something clients relate to and understand. The program educates clients that, in the same way they go to gym regularly to have a fit body, they need to have regular treatments to maintain skin health for life. Skin Health For Life™ focuses clients on moving beyond just improving the external appearance of their skin and actually restoring youthful, healthy skin through a combination of monthly professional HydraFacial treatments and daily at-home products. When clients embrace this philosphy they realise that skin health is a necessity, not a choice, and they become more committed to the process of professional skin care.

“Our Skin Health For Life™ philosophy is one advantage our owners have over the competition. As clients keep coming back for their regular treatment it provides the clinic with more opportunities to sell extra products and services every few weeks.”

ENHANCING THE EFFECTS OF ADVANCED TREATMENTS HydraFacial gives the therapist a variety of treatment options with the ability to deliver anti-oxidants or glycolic acid peels simultaneously with dermabrasion. The system can improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, acne, hyperpigmentation, congested pores and uneven skin tone with no surgery, no injections and no downtime. The ability to extract blackheads in seconds has added to the instant change that clients feel after a treatment.

The HydraFacial works well before and after advanced treatments such as IPL, laser, micro-needling and certain types of fillers. Many advanced treatments such as these create a wound-healing response, and by having the skin healthy prior to treatment the skin is better placed to create the desired outcome. Irene Vassilakos, Director of Flinders Cosmetics & Consultancy, was one of the first to choose HydraFacial in Australia and has achieved a great response from her patients as a stand-alone treatment and in conjunction with other advanced treatments.

“Flinders Cosmetics & Consultancy have been using the HydraFacial System from High Tech Laser and we have found it to be most valuable, enhancing our laser treatments or as a stand-alone device to treat troublesome skin issues. Considering how effective it is in treating most skin types, while successfully addressing very particular skin issues, I believe every client should be eager to try this treatment before any standard facial. In fact, we have found that clients who receive the HydraFacial before and after our laser treatments are seeing even more impressive results. After one treatment, you'll notice softer, more hydrated skin, decreased pore size, and a more even skin tone. HydraFacial is the best value in skincare we have introduced into our clinic,” Irene confirmed.

In addition to monthly HydraFacial treatments salons can also sell a specially formulated, salon-only HydraFacial product range that complements the treatment. While salons can continue to recommend any quality product range, consumers have responded well to the HydraFacial products because they understand it will maintain their results in between treatments.

The HydraFacial is available in Australia through High Tech Laser. Call 1300 309 233 or visit www.HydraFacial.com.au for more information.

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BAY LAUREL and its role in Immune support in Aesthetics

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By Tina Viney

As part of several protocols to stimulate collagen density we often use procedures that are to some degree invasive, such as collagen induction therapy, laser and IPL procedures as well as Thermage, just to name a few. These procedures stimulate the dermis to achieve a level of skin tightening. They achieve this by creating micro-trauma in an attempt to stimulate fibroblasts and growth factors and stimulate cell turnover.

Heating collagen breaks down hydrogen bonds in its chains, causing its structure to shorten and thicken. So immediately after say a Thermage procedure and for a few weeks, this shortening will lead to a visible tightening effect. Think of how eggs look like when you scramble them: Collagen, like eggs, is a protein that is affected drastically by heat. However, as the body clears out the damaged collagen, this initial effect does not last. In the long term denaturing collagen signals skin fibroblasts to produce new, healthy collagen, leading to skin tightening seen after a few months. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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On the other hand surgical procedures that aim at restructuring features are invasive, creating wounding that needs to heal.

Our nature healing mechanism is directly associated to our immune system and so treatments and techniques that support the lymphatic and immune system are useful when included as part of our protocols.

For example, lymphatic drainage is a very beneficial treatment both pre and post-operatively as well as in conjunction with other skinrejuvenating treatments, including microcurrent, LED, iontophoresis and all of the above procedures we have already mentioned.

Without a healthy immune system healing in the body is impaired, skin repair may be compromised and the skin can also become susceptible to infections, and this is an area that should concern every aesthetician.

When considering supporting the immune system in conjunction with lymphatic drainage, the use of essential oils can offer great tools to support the healing process. In this article I want to specifically draw attention to a less-known essential oil called Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis). ㄰

Most of us are familiar with the common Bay leaf used in cooking.

However, the essential oil of this plant offers amazing healing, calming and immune stimulating properties that can be used to support a client pre and post-surgically, as well as less-invasive treatments that aim at cell renewal.

I first heard about Bay Laurel when undertaking a course with Dr. Kurt Schnaubelt on Aromatic Chemistry at Monash University. Dr Schnaubelt is recognised as a leading world expert in the chemistry of

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essential oils. In his lecture he made special reference to some of the wonderful healing constituents of Bay Laurel and its positive effects on the lymphatic system.

other people. The Bay Laurel essential oil will help keep your mind sharp and active, while acting as a disinfectant.

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Responsible Cautions: Bay Laurel in high doses is a possible irritant

THERAPEUTIC AND CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS Aromatically Bay Laurel exhibits a fresh herbacous, fruity and camphorous characteristic which is a very pleasant, fresh and welcoming essence to inhale, inducing almost immediate relaxation, while its chemical constituents are also very interesting and include: a-pinene, B-pinene, myrcene, limonene, linalool, methyl chavicol, neral, a-terpineol, geranyl acetate, eugenol and cavicol.

Bay Laurel is recognised for its regenerating and antiseptic properties.

A good infection-fighting agent and lymph stimulant, it is also particularly beneficial for its antiseptic properties for recurrent viral or respiratory conditions, including colds, flu, tonsillitis and allergies, especially when congestion and infection are involved. In several studies, Bay Laurel essential oil was found to counteract drugresistant strains of Campylobacter jejuni bacteria, which causes diarrhoea.

Bay Laurel is an excellent tonic for cleansing organs such as the kidneys, liver, spleen as well as for the digestive system. Historically it has also been used to aid indigestion, flatulence and diarrhoea, and as an appetite stimulant. According to Dr Schnaubelt it is a superior lymphatic cleanser, acting as a detoxifier and immune stimulant. In fact, in his book, Medical Aromatherapy: Healing with essential oils, Dr Schnaubelt states “its positive effects on the lymphatic system are undeniable. Rubbing a few drops of Bay Laurel on swollen lymph nodes will produce an immediately noticeable relieving effect.”

This is important as the lymphatic system is basically the body's sewer system and a component of our immune system. When the body is processing a lot of waste the nodes or intersections of that system tend to swell, clog up and become painful to the touch and waste processing slows down. By cleansing the lymphatic system in essence we are strengthening the immune system, which is critical for wound healing and cellular repair.

Bay Laurel is also a wonderful aid for relieving stress and anxiety. It is stimulating, invigorating and can clear the mind and help calm stressful feelings, as well as assists in improving clarity and memory.

Bay Laurel also helps in relieving headaches.

On an emotional level many experts consider Bay Laurel as a wonderful oil for promoting confidence and for helping maintain courage and focus when dealing with challenges or new ideas. Valerie Ann Worwood in her book Aromatherapy and the Soul says about Bay Laurel essential oil “it will encourage confidence, fortitude, inspiration, protection, direction and creativity”.

to sensitive skin so it must be diluted with massage oil prior to external use. Do not use in large doses on lymph nodes; doing so can result in uncomfortable detoxification symptoms. Use also in moderation to avoid possible narcotic effects. Also, since the oil is emmenagogue and can bring on a delayed menstrual cycle, it should not be used during pregnancy.

Method of use: Essential oils should never be used undiluted unless

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Bay Laurel is also known to soothe muscular aches, pains, and strains – used following a workout it will prevent soreness and lactic acid buildup. It is also a phenomenal hair and scalp tonic. Added to shampoo or conditioner it will help fight hair loss and dandruff and support scalp health.

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Added to a diffuser in a work space Bay Laurel offers excellent protection when you are concerned about environmental germs from

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To gain extra benefit, Bay Laurel can also be inhaled and should be used on both the face and body through appropriate massage and lymphatic drainage techniques. Utilising this modality with the use of Bay Lauren can be a valuable catalyst in supporting the lymphatic and immune system, further enhancing treatment recovery as well as improving the client experience.

Other essential oils with antibacterial properties and to support the immune system include: ! Angelica (Angelica archangelica or A. officinalis) Anti-

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you are formally trained to do so. They can be diluted in a ration of 13% within a carrier, preferably a cold-pressed, organic oil such as hazelnut, almond or apricot oils.

Bay Laurel's predominant therapeutic properties are: Antibacterial, anticonvulsant, anti-infectious, antimicrobial, antiseptic, digestive aid, expectorant, emmenagogue, immunostimulant, lymphatic cleanser, decongestant and nerve relaxant.

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infectious and strengthens the immune system but is photosensitising so do not use on areas of the skin that will be exposed to sunlight.

Bergamot (Citrus bergamia) An antiseptic essential oil that not only helps destroy infectious microbes, but also helps strengthen the immune system. Photosensitising.

Black Pepper (Piper nigrum) A warming essential oil that acts against respiratory congestion, viruses and bacteria.

Cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylanicum) An antiseptic essential oil that will irritate skin if applied topically.

Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus, E. radiata, E. citriodora) Helps clear respiratory congestion and kills bacteria as well as other germs.

Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) Antiseptic, antiviral and antibacterial as well as mixing well with other essential oils.

Ginger (Zingiber officinale) Shown to increase natural immune defences at the cellular level and is strong against herpes colds, and other viruses.

Juniper (Juniperus communis) A disinfectant essential oil traditionally used to ward off infectious diseases.

Ravensara (Ravensara aromatica; Cinnamomum camphora) Strong against all viruses, even herpes and other viral infections.

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) A very strong antiseptic, rosemary is also useful for respiratory ailments, making it a logical choice for influenza outbreaks.

Tea Tree (Melaleuca alternifolia) Better against fungi and bacteria, tea tree is still effective against viral infections and seems to also increase the speed with which the immune system responds to threats of infections.

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) Strong antiseptic and antiviral essential oil.

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SOURCES: Advanced Aromatherapy: The Science of Essential Oil Therapy by Kurt Schnaubelt, PhD Herbal Antibiotics: Natural Alternatives for Treating Drug-Resistant Bacteria by Stephen Harrod Buhner

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Treatment Strategies for the Diabetic Client

By Matoyla Kollaras Each and every day as aestheticians we encounter various skin conditions that we are required to address and provide solutions for.

Some of these are topical, while others are systemic in their origin and the result of an underlying medical condition.

As responsible practitioners we are required to conduct a thorough and meticulous skin evaluation to determine any underlying health concerns that may have contributed to the manifestations that we are observing on the skin. This is now expected of us if our clients are going to continue to trust our knowledge and expertise.

In this article I wish to address the needs of the diabetic client, as diabetics can be more prone to skin issues than our other clients. In some cases you will be faced with multiple challenges as these clients often suffer from rosacea or hyperpigmentation. As a skincare practitioner who treats various skin conditions, an understanding of the underlying pathology can make an enormous difference to how you select your treatment options and strategies, especially in this era of numerous advanced technologies.

DIABETES IN AUSTRALIA Let's look at what the statistics tell us about diabetes? Diabetes is the world's fastest-growing chronic disease. An estimated 280 Australians develop diabetes every day, and approximately 1 million Australians have diabetes, but for every person diagnosed it is estimated that there is another person that is yet to be diagnosed. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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WHAT IS DIABETES? Diabetes is a chronic condition in which the levels of glucose (sugar) in the blood are too high and the body cannot metabolise sugar efficiently. This condition affects almost every organ, including the skin. Aestheticians must be attentive to the symptomatic manifestations of diabetic skin and carefully work with their clients to maintain good skin and body health. Your diabetic clients would definitely benefit from your understanding of their health-challenges and from your expert knowledge on how you can support them

through effective skin-improvement strategies. Diabetes is a chronic condition, which means that it's long-lasting, often for someone's whole life. For our body to work properly we need to convert glucose (sugar) from food into energy. The hormone insulin is essential for the conversion of glucose into energy.

In people with diabetes, insulin is no longer produced or not produced in sufficient amounts by the body. So when people with diabetes eat glucose, which is in foods such as breads, cereals, fruit and starchy vegetables, legumes, milk, yoghurt and sweets, it can't be converted into energy. Instead of being turned into energy the glucose stays in the blood. This is why blood glucose levels are higher in people with diabetes. Glucose is carried around in the body through the blood.

Your blood glucose level is called glycaemia. There are two types of diabetes – type 1 and type 2.

Type 1 Diabetes In type 1 diabetes the pancreas, which is a large gland behind the stomach, stops making insulin. Without insulin, the body's cells cannot turn glucose (sugar) into energy. Without insulin the body burns its own fats as a substitute. Unless treated with daily injections of insulin, people with type 1 diabetes accumulate dangerous chemical substances in their blood from the burning of fat. This can cause a condition known as ketoacidosis. This condition is potentially life threatening if not treated.

To stay alive, people with type 1 diabetes depend on up to four insulin injections every day of their lives. They must test their blood glucose levels several times daily. The onset of type 1 diabetes typically occurs in people under 30 years, but can occur at any age. About 10-15% of all cases of diabetes are type 1.

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Type 2 Diabetes Type 2 is the most common form of diabetes, affecting 85-90% of all people with diabetes. While it usually affects older adults, more and more younger people, even children, are getting type 2 diabetes.

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In type 2 diabetes, the pancreas makes some insulin, but it is not produced in the amount your body needs and it does not work effectively.

Type 2 diabetes results from a combination of genetic and environmental factors. Although there is a strong genetic predisposition, the risk is greatly increased when associated with lifestyle factors such as high blood pressure, overweight or obesity, insufficient physical activity, poor diet and the classic ‘apple shape' body where extra weight is carried around the waist.

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Reduce sugar and processed foods in their diet and increase the intake of vegetables, especially dark green leafy vegetables.

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Maintain adequate amounts of water – 6-8 glasses a day.

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Type 2 diabetes can often initially be managed with healthy eating and regular physical activity. However, over time most people with type 2 diabetes will also need tablets and many will also need insulin. It is important to note that this is just the natural progression of the disease, and taking tablets or insulin as soon as they are required can result in fewer complications in the long-term.

IDENTIFYING DIABETIC SYMPTOMS IN THE CLINIC Diabetes can affect every part of the body, including the skin.

Indeed, sometimes skin disorders are in fact the first sign that a person has diabetes. It is estimated that as many as one-third of diabetics will have a skin disorder. Perhaps the most common of these problems is dry and itchy skin. This is due to a number of factors. Some of these include: ! Poor microcirculation due to vascular issues resulting in a reduced availability of nutrition to reach the skin ! Frequent urination (polyuria) results in reduced availability of moisture to the skin ! Damaged nerves that no longer tell the skin to sweat, thus reducing the production of the skin’s natural oils ! Diabetic neuropathy due to damaged nerves can result in numbness, tingling, pain or even 'wasting' in the toes, feet, legs, hands, arms and fingers.

The dryness and accompanying itching can start small cracks in the skin that can lead to the onslaught of bacterial or fungal infections.

Recent scientific research has identified a set of compounds called "AGE" (Advanced Glycation Endproducts). When excess sugar enters the blood-stream it binds to skin proteins such as collagen and elastin. Once the sugars bind to the collagen and elastin, the proteins mutate creating damaging new molecules known as A.G.Es, and as a result the proteins become cross-linked, more brittle and less elastic, resulting in significantly prematurely aged skin. This glycation condition cannot be reversed.

As a professional, you should remain vigilant for telltale signs on the skin when delivering facial treatments, waxing, massage or during manicure and pedicure procedures.

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Diabetic-related skin conditions such as diabetic dermopathy will manifest as light-brown circular or round scaly patches, most often occurring on the front of both legs (often mistaken for age spots). You may notice a thinning of the skin that causes shininess, cracked feet and heels, painful infection of the nails and cuticles, or yellowish plaque that forms over shins.

Diabetic clients are also more prone to folliculitis, boils, carbuncles, styes as well as thinning or loss of hair. Fungal infections are also conditions that frequently occur in diabetics and often occur in the moist folds of the skin such as under the breasts, around nails, between fingers or toes, the groin and even under the armpits.

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Here are some useful recommendations for the diabetic client:

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A routine exercise program is very important. Exercise that promotes blood circulation is not just for cardiac health, but also for healthy skin.

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Keep the skin dry, especially in skin-fold areas such as between the toes, armpits, groin area and under the breast or any place where skin touches skin.

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Avoid protracted hot baths and showers. If having a bath the addition of Dead Sea or Epsom salts is recommended. Avoid bubble bath.

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Use mild soaps, or better still, moisturising body washes. Follow with a nourishing body cream or lotion preferably rich in minerals.

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Prevent dry and itchy skin that can become chapped and cracked by frequently applying a non-irritating body cream or lotion that not only hydrates the skin, but also replaces the lost oils.

Recommend they carry a good hand cream in their bag.

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Reduce risk of infections in the feet by drying the skin between the toes carefully after a shower or bath. Moisturising lotions should never be applied to skin between the toes. Clients should also regularly check their feet for any sores or cuts.

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Apply sunscreen to the tops of their feet and hands. This is sometimes overlooked and can result in burns or sun damage.

Diabetics can very easily burn their feet and hands, especially if they have nerve damage and cannot easily feel pain. Avoid being in the sun during peak hours, which is 11am to 2pm.

Another condition that you may observe in diabetic patients is acanthosis nigricans. This is a condition that results in the darkening and thickening of the skin in body folds and creases. Often areas of tan or brown skin, sometimes slightly raised, appear on the sides of the neck, the armpits and groin. Acanthosis nigricans usually occurs in people who are very overweight, and is most common in Indigenous and darker-skinned people.

Most importantly you must keep in mind that diabetics suffer poor, slow or incomplete wound healing.

CONDUCTING SAFE AND BENEFICIAL TREATMENTS A thorough medical history and a detailed and thorough skin and body analysis that examines the cellular activity of the skin and its tolerance levels is essential for every client, but even more importantly for your diabetic client before embarking on any treatments for face or body.

Treatments should be carried out ONLY by qualified aestheticians who have training and knowledge in advanced skin analysis, and always look out for the possibility of sensitivity and allergic reactions due to medications, infection and delayed wound healing.

The other consideration with a diabetic client is to meticulously and progressively monitor their skin's response to any treatment you undertake and when in doubt, tread slowly and cautiously. Always employ best practice techniques taking into consideration the precautions necessary for this condition. By understanding the disease from a mind/body and skin perspective you can make the correct recommendations and/or adjust treatments and homecare so that the experience and the results are both safe and beneficial.

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TREATMENT CONSIDERATION FOR THE FACE

diabetics and can lead to bacteria being trapped under the skin.

1. Facial treatments

3. Facial and Eyebrow Threading

Insulin is usually injected in the morning. For clients on intermediate acting insulin, schedule treatments for mid to late afternoon. For clients on rapid-acting insulin, schedule treatments 2-3 hours after injection. The timings of both are important in order to avoid peak insulin activity. For advanced or poorly cared for diabetes, face treatments are contraindicated. Use only treatments and products that contain ingredients that are beneficial for diabetic skin. Below I have indicated some recommendations as well as identified some contraindications:

This is a more suitable hair-removal alternative, especially for the face.

2. Acids and enzyme Peels It is recommended that you only use very mild acid or enzyme peels as diabetic skins are usually very fragile.

3. Microdermabrasion As a rule microdermabrasion is contraindicated as diabetic skin is often very thin and any abrasive action can pose a risk of tearing the skin.

4. Dermal Needling A thorough skin evaluation is needed to determine if the use of a dermal roller is safe to use for product penetration. This is with a needle depth of 0.3mm or 0.5mm or less, which only reaches the epidermal layers. Collagen Induction Therapy with needle lengths of above 0.5mm that may create a trauma is contra-indicated due to the body's poor healing capabilities and is contraindicated for type 1 diabetics.

5. IPL/Laser treatments Before such treatments a thorough investigative skin analysis must be conducted to determine the client's healing capabilities. As a rule nonablative lasers such as Alexandrite and ND YAG at the right wavelengths are usually beneficial, but meticulous care must be taken to ensure this. However, ablative lasers such as Co2 Urbian YAG lasers are definitely contraindicated. Either way, treatment parameters should be carefully considered when undergoing any laser treatments.

6. Electrolysis Particularly for insulin-dependent diabetes this is definitely contraindicated.

7. Cosmetic Tattoo A thorough skin-healing assessment is needed to determine suitability for this treatment, but as a rule insulin-dependent diabetes type 1 diabetics are contraindicated for this procedure.

8. LED Light therapy Near-infrared LED light therapy has healing properties as well as Yellow LED, which is good for lymphatic drainage and improving blood circulation. Both these are beneficial for diabetic skin conditions.

BODY TREATMENTS With diabetic clients caution is also needed with body treatments. Due to diabetic neuropathy, clients often have reduced or no feeling in the lower extremities of their arms and legs, therefore great caution is needed when performing any treatments to hands or feet as the skin may easily tear, while they may not feel any sensation from heat or cuts. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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1. Massage This modality can actually increase insulin activity and thus reduce blood glucose levels, as will the relaxing nature of massage.

Therefore, although this treatment is beneficial, keep an eye on your client and ask questions intermittently during the treatment to check that they are not going into a hypoglycaemic state. The treatment itself should be gentle rather than vigorous and do not overwork the body.

4. IPL/Laser hair removal As mentioned above this is considered a high risk for the type 1 diabetic, however, for milder conditions a full assessment is imperative to determine suitability.

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5. Manicure and Pedicure Treat with care and use only sterilised equipment when conducting a manicure or pedicure. Do not cut cuticles, do not scrub feet with pumice or metal files, monitor water temperature and keep it lukewarm and ensure that you dry between toes and fingers thoroughly. Be aware that fungal infections, especially of the toenails, are common in diabetics.

6. Hot and Cold Stone Therapy Hot stone therapy is contraindicated, especially in the extremities due to diabetic neuropathy. However, cold stones are indicated, but not iced stones.

7. Paraffin Wax This treatment is also contraindicated.

PRODUCT INGREDIENTS BEST SUITED TO THE SKIN NEEDS OF DIABETICS Strong scientific evidence suggests that the following ingredients are some of the most beneficial for the diabetic client – look for these in treatments and homecare products: 1. Anti-glycation agents – We cannot reverse the existing glycation damage, but we can try and prevent future damage. Look for ingredients such as Bilberry, Coffeeberry, L-Carnitine, Lycopene, Niacinamide, Pomegranate, Pycnogenol.

2. Anti-inflammatory agents – Your objective is to reduce cell damage from inflammation, redness, swelling and pain as well as soothe irritated skin, thus improving skin health and preventing disease and premature ageing. Look for ingredients such as Aloe, Centella Asiatica, Cinammon, Fenugreek, Ginseng, Omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids, Vitamin E, Sulphur and Zinc.

3. Anti-oxidants – These are important in helping fight and reduce free radical damage, fortify the entire skin and repair DNA damage.

They also help restore the skin's defence barrier and support the skin's ability to heal. Ingredients to look for include Alpha-Lipoic-Acid (ALA), B-Complex, Green Tea, Calcium, Chromium, Magnesium, Selenium, Probiotics and Venuceane.

4. Water-binding agents – These are important to restore and maintain the hydration levels of typically dry diabetic skin, and help prevent TEWL (Trans-epidermal water loss). Good ingredients include Algae extract, Glycerine, Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium PCA. 5. Natural Moisturising Factors – One of the primary elements in keeping skin healthy is making sure the structure of the epidermis and in particular the stratum corneum is intact. The repairing components that do this are often called natural moisturising factor (NMF) or ingredients that mimic the structure and function of healthy skin. The include amino acids such as Arginine, Jojoba Oil, Olive Oil, Sesame Oil, Seabuckthorn, Shea Butter.

TAKE A WHOLISTIC APPROACH

2. Waxing

As a professional aesthetician, you play a vital role in taking care of skin and dealing with clients that may manifest with different diseases both of the skin and systemically. Making your diabetic clients aware of their skin health through active self-monitoring should also be an important part of your communication with them.

As a rule waxing is contraindicated in diabetics. The potential for micro-tears due to fragile and dry skin gives bacteria the ability to enter the body. Folliculitis is also an increased risk when waxing

Matoyla Kollaras Director, Skin Factors Pty Ltd, Distributors of CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS, AHAVA, and ANNA LOTAN.

APJ 102

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When you want the perfect fit you need an

INDUSTRY SPECIALIST INSURER Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...

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APAN's Adelaide Australian Aesthetics Conference

A Great Success!

True to its mission, APAN launched their first conference program for the year in Adelaide on Sunday 26th May with the theme “Understanding the new Era of Aesthetics”.

The event was well supported from salons and clinics from the region as well as from other States as eager therapists participated, including WA, Darwin, Queensland, Sydney and Victoria. Industry professionals networked among themselves and also forged some good relationships with skincare and equipment companies, who were also represented through a small exhibition.

These niche conference programs were introduced by APAN in 2009 and have grown from one State per year to three in 2013 with the new name Australian Aesthetic Conference.

APAN's objective for these events is to energise the industry through quality, education with a special focus on generic content that delegates can use to benchmark their professional and business decisions. All professional industries conduct generic conference programs, but the aesthetics industry predominantly offers supplier training events and, while these are valuable, their objective is focused on the products they have developed. This often leaves a gap in the area of broader information that is also important for any professional or business owner.

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The APAN conference therefore provide the opportunity to present information of global changes, educational options, changes in industry legislation and technology as well as scientific developments that will effect our industry.

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The testimonies and feedback were very positive, with many stating that the program helped them gain a greater understanding on the industry's direction that gave them greater clarity and a new perspective of their options and possibilities.

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“It is such testimonials that are so rewarding and make the hard work that goes into staging these events worthwhile,” Tina Viney confirmed. “If we can save businesses in this economic climate and re-energise them with new tools and passion, we would have achieved an important part of our mission.”

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True to his form, Terry Everitt once again was the MC of the conference program, bringing a level of dignity and professionalism to the program and adding his expert knowledge when presenting the various topics and speakers.

Tina Viney was the first speaker. She presented global research data and an overview of key drivers that will bring changes to the industry. She shared global predictions in skincare and technology and discussed how these will impact the Australian aesthetic industry.

Tina also defined strategy and discussed how strategic intent can be used as a tool to navigate through change and challenges (a brief outline of this lecture is presented in Tina industry report on pages 5056).

Caroline Nelson then challenged delegates on the importance of embracing change and moving with the times to implement business systems and strategies that will help them gain the competitive advantage and grow their client base and profitability. She stressed the importance of identifying what no longer works and present new approaches that businesses could immediately implement to turn things around.

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Gay Wardle discussed why treatments with IPL/Laser and other technologies are not reaching the mark and the value and importance of proper training in gaining a comprehensive understanding, not only of the new technologies, but also how they effect the skin. She identified new areas of knowledge and training that the industry needs to invest in if they are to meet the growing demands of a changing consumer market.

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APJ 105

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database, fill in appointment gaps and create a better client/salon relationship and loyalty.

Michael Bishop addressed the highly contentious issue of the law and pitfalls to avoid with Independent Contractors when determining employment options. He shared some amazing court outcomes and fines that many businesses are facing because of a misunderstanding of the law. This lecture brought home certain facts that allowed businesses to re-think their approach on this subject and offered a great deal of food for thought.

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While the conference program presented a great deal of thought-provoking information, delegates were also recipients of several lucky door prizes and each delegate was able to select a wine of their choice from a collection of superb Willowglen wines from the local Barossa Valley and the vineyards of De Bortoli boutique wines.

Dr Christine Houghton discussed how external ageing can be influenced through internal inflammation, and how the new science of nutrigenomics utilises the power of food-derived biomolecules that are capable of “switching on” certain genes associated with cellular health, support disease prevention and speed up cellular recovery.

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The next APAN Australian Aesthetic Conference will be held in Sydney on 26 th August. A full report will be presented in the next issue of APJ.

M a r k Vi n e y p r e s e n t e d emerging new and highly-effective communication technologies and demonstrated how they can be used to grow a business's

If you have never attended these events you will have the opportunity to attend the 3rd conference for the year on the Gold Coast. See pages 24-26 for further details. These are fully certified Professional Development events.

To register visit www.apanetwork.com

Magnesium Chloride: The king of minerals

MAGNESIUM FOR A HEALTHY BODY, MIND AND RELAXATION Mobile Marketing is the most powerful media ever invented – New York Times

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]Relieves Stress ]Reduces muscle fatigue ㄰ 㤵 㜵

and cramps ]Increases skin elasticity and vibrancy ]Assist in having a better night sleep ]Reduces menstrual pain ]Reduces hot flushes in menopause ]High in Vitamin D

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Are you magnesium deficient?

Most people are! If you are a person who suffers from stress, depression, muscle spasms, or sore muscles you will feel the benefits of using our Magnesium Detox Gel and Scrub. What is unique about these products is that they contain no synthetic chemicals and are rich in vitamin C for fast absorption. They are specially formulated using the most powerful aromatherapy, herbs, essential oils and essential fatty acids to penetrate deeper into the skin for optimal results.

Organic Rosehip Skincare

1300 552 386 info@rosehipskincare.com | www.rosehipskincare.com

APJ 106

Custom Built Smartphone Apps

HAVE YOUR OWN MOBILE APP BUILT! APAN Strategic Alliance Partner – Kharis Enterprises are professionally Smart Phone Apps developers. with over 20 years association with the Aesthetic and Beauty Industry.

SOME OF THE FEATURES AN APP CAN SUPPLY PUSH NOTIFICATION – Connect with customers for free. Use “PUSH” Notification to get clients to fill empty treatment slots.

PRODUCT INFORMATION – Include video clips, testimonials and detailed information. The more informed your clients are receiving from you the more likely they will want to purchase your products.

LOYALTY PROGRAM THROUGH GPS COUPONS – Use the Smart Phone built-in GPS to implement “GPS Coupons”.

USING QR CODE COUPONS – Smart Phones scan a digital barcode called a QR Code (see at top). This QR Code is read by the Smart Phone and contains information about anything you want.

To discuss your Business App or for further information contact Kharis Enterprises on Mobile: 0412 177 423 or Email: apps@kharis.com

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As a Strategic Alliance

Grand Haven International

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Increase your qualification and gain recognition

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Grand Haven International is a government accredited Registered Training Organisation (RTO 32104) delivering courses in: ! Microdermabrasion

! ! !

SIB 70110 Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL / Laser Laser Tattoo Removal Ultrasonic Fat Cavitation/RF Skin Tightening

! !

Laser Safety Course Cert III, IV, Diploma of Beauty

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Funding also available to approved applicants

BODILITE – Quality Systems & Solutions BODILITE systems are classified as Medical Devices with more efficient treatment parameters.

Bodilite provides quality systems and solutions for the Medical, Beauty and Spa industry. We are one of the largest suppliers of ARTG registered equipment in Australia today. Our high quality equipment, service and training will optimise your clinic's potential.

SUPER SHR / SSR IPL - New IPL Technology The new system combines laser technology and the benefits of pulsating light method achieving practically painless results. Difficult hairs can be treated through In Motion IPL program for operator speed, patient comfort and better protection of the skin. It provides a gradual thermal rise to the target therapeutic temperature without risk of injury eliminating the common problem of missed or skipped areas with comprehensive coverage to legs, arms and backs. Normal IPLs with Multipulse modes focus energy on one pulse, so it is easy to burn the client, but SHR emits a single pulse mode for safer treatments. The SHR filtered violet light and infrared light absorbs water targeting the skin with no side effects. SHR accelerates operation speed and shortens the time for treatments with 1-10Hz moving the head along the skin with a faster repetition rate of shots fired per millisecond requiring less time per treatment.

LASER TATTOO REMOVAL Nd Yag Q Switched Laser tattoo removal removes all tattoo colours with no scarring or downtime.

BODISLIM Bodislim offers 40,000 HTZ of ultrasound to effectively blast fat cells into liquid so the body can eliminate fatty deposits. Results are amazing as you can target areas that are normally not affected by diet and exercise alone.

The machine has RF skin tightening for the entire body, a vacuum liposuction head for lymphatic drainage and smaller ultrasound heads for the face and upper body.

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Our devices are tailor-made to our specifications.

We Offer Great Service – Great Results GRAND HAVEN INTERNATIONAL | Ph: 07 5477 6738 www.grandhaven.com.au | www.bodilite.com.au | The Boulevard Centre, 12B / 68 Jessica Bvd, Minyama QLD

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN

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This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

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after international lecturer, enlightened her audience on treatments for more stubborn skin conditions such as acne, scarring and pigmentation.

All guest received “gift bags”, discounted vouchers and free treatments as part of promotional options, while there were 21 lucky door prizes valued at $4000 and numerous specials only available on the night.

A SALON PROMOTION WITH A DIFFERENCE Having recently upgraded her services to offer more comprehensive anti-ageing treatments in her clinic Gay Wardle, one of Australia's leading educators in the aesthetic industry, launched the new services through a highly successful VIP night that was held on July 17th at Skinology, her salon, which is located in Springwood – a suburb of Brisbane.

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All staff members were given running sheets to ensure the event ran smoothly. The evening generated over $16,000 worth of sales, making it a great success.

Furthermore, the buzz that has been generated will ensure that staff will be kept busy for several weeks.

Gay, being the generous person that she is, has offered to assist anyone who would like further details on how to run their own successful VIP Promotion Event. If you would like to speak with her phone: 07 3208 9255 and have a chat with Gay to gain some valuable tips on what makes a successful VIP Promotion.

The event saw over 130 very eager consumers attending to learn and benefit about new and exciting procedures.

Guests were greeted and served with platters of delicious food and wine and the shopping centre allowed the use of their floor space just outside the salon.

Speakers included Dr Hung – a well-known Cosmetic Physician, who was invited to speak about novel new procedures including injectable fillers and Platelet Rich Plasma (PRF) and the value they can offer in improving skin rejuvenation and anti-ageing results.

Debbie Dickson, head of DMK Education and a sought

Fiona Tuck of Skinstitut featured on Channel 7 – The Morning Show Wednesday July 3rd: Fiona Tuck, Managing Director of Skinstitut, was featured on Channel 7 The Morning Show discussing how internal health impacts the skin.

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Fiona discussed how, through Chinese face diagnosis, the face is viewed to be much like a mirror, with internal condition and wellness reflecting externally through various facets of our faces. Fiona was given three models to analyse. Model one had a puffy, swollen face.

Fiona explained how these symptoms are connected to the lung function and could

signify breathing d i ff i c u l t i e s . T h e model then revealed she suffered from sleep apnoea and required a machine to help her breathe at night.

To view the outcome for models two and three, the segment is available to view on The Morning Show website and the Skinstitut Facebook page. Skinstitut offers Chinese Face Diagnosis as part of its Advanced Holistic Skin Analysis class.

For more information please contact head office on (02) 9460 7559.

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APJ 108

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar

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Produced by Terry Everitt, Aesthetic Educators

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Aug25-26 Sydney Int Spa Beauty Expo Sydney Convention and Exhibition Centre Darling Harbour T: 02 9422 2535 E:visit@internationalbeautyexpo.com.au

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COSMECEUTICALS TO EXPERIENCE CONTINUED GROWTH While the interest in cosmetics that are based on biotechnology and plant-derived actives will continue to grow the latest figures indicate that cosmeceuticals are still experiencing the greatest global growth in demand as they demonstrate “drug-like” benefits.

Advancements in technology and emergence of new ingredients have further contributed to the progress in the commercialisation of cosmeceutical products worldwide. In 2011, the market was estimated to reach US$ 30.5 billion and is likely to augment at a rapid pace in the coming years growing at a CAGR of around 7.7% during 2012-2016.

According to a new research report, “Global Cosmeceuticals Market Outlook 2016”, the global cosmeceutical market offers huge potential.

In Australia, according to an IBIS report on cosmetics and toiletries 2013-14, the industry is expected to post growth of 2.9% bringing industry revenue up to an estimated $3.6 billion. This compares with revenue of $3.1 billion in 2008-09, equating to annualised growth of 3.2% over the past five years. While no official figures are available specifically for cosmeceuticals, according to APAN's figures most suppliers of professional products have experienced a small but promising growth, with the best figures reflective of their more active or cosmeceutical products.

The demand for more anti-ageing skincare results by consumers is on the rise. Within the professional market these results are expected to be delivered through the effective use of equipment technologies and appropriate advanced skincare formulations. In fact, according to several suppliers, it is this sector that is leading the growth of the professional beauty industry. http://www.rncos.com/Market-Analysis-Reports/Global-Cosmeceuticals-Market-Outlook-2016-IM473.htm

CONSUMERS SEEKING MAKEUP WITH SKINCARE BENEFITS According to global researchers one of the new consumer trends is that they are looking for as many benefits as possible in the one product.

The term that is currently used to describe this is “multi-functionality” and this now also includes makeup.

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According to one researcher that conducted an extensive survey, 86% of the women they researched said that they use makeup with skincare benefits similar to those that are present in skincare products. The key benefits that older women are looking for in makeup are, added hydrating properties, sun protection and anti-ageing ingredients to help tone and lift the skin, while younger women looked for makeup that also help clear the skin of blemishes and pimples.

Makeup with skincare benefits is also driving the popularity of BB and CC creams as these are identified as offering great value for money. Women are also concerned with toxicity when it comes to the use of makeup, so ingredient consideration is now becoming more important the researchers said.

APAN Australian Aesthetics Conference – Sydney Sydney Novotel Central T: 07 55930360 F: 07 55930367 E: info@apanetwork.com

Aug24-25 7th Annual Anti-Aging & Aesthetic Medicine Conference Sofitel Melbourne T: 03 98130439 F: 03 98130649 E: enquiries@a5m.net Aug24-26 Face & Body Northern California McEnery Convention Center San Jose, CA T: +1-630-653-2155 F: +1-630-653-2192 E: FBNC@allured.com Sep22-23 Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Boward County Convention Center Fort Lauderdale, FL, USA T: +1 203-383-0516 F: +1 212-895-8209 E: dwaltersdorf@questex.com Sep29-30 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, California T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 E: registration@lneonline.com Oct6-7

Esthetique SPA International Palais des congrès de Montréal Montreal (QC) Canada T: + 450 434-4738 F: +450 435-2027 E: info@spa-show.com

Oct6-7

Professional Beauty Dublin RDS Dublin T: + 44 (0)844 557 0914 E: info@professionalbeauty.co.uk

Oct13-14 Professional Beauty North Manchester Central T: + 44 (0)844 557 0914 E: info@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Oct21-23 Beauty World Japan West Intex, 1-5-102, Nanko-Kita, Suminoe-ku, Nanko, Osaka T: + 49 69 75 75-0 F: + 49 69 75 75-64 33 E: beautyworld@messefrankfurst.com

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APJ 109

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“This was a great achievement for our industry,” said Tina Viney, CEO of APAN. APAN was appointed as the lead organisation to select the qualification and determine the RTO selection for this initiative.

“BTTA were the first RTO to be approved to deliver this training and they have worked diligently to meet with all the extra necessary compliance requirements for this initiative. We are so thrilled to see the first batch going through,” Tina stated.

BTTA principal Angie Smith commented that this was a very exciting time, both for the applicants and the college. “ Most of the applicants were already IPL or Laser practitioners and it was a real privilege for them to also gain formal qualification in these services.

“As a trainer, this was a very rewarding experience in ensuring all practitioners gain full qualification.

It was also alarming to see that several had gaps in the skills and knowledge, but they were thrilled to finally be fully qualified,” Angie said.

With the introduction of new technologies as an RTO, BTTA has chosen to specialise in the delivery of post-graduate training and qualifications as the need is becoming increasingly important.

“We train doctors, nurses and beauty therapists in both Laser Safety Courses as well as offer qualifications for a variety of practices, including IPL and Laser, tattoo removal and other technologies and practices such as dermal needling, microdermabrasion and microcurrent. It's a very rewarding experience to see eager therapists gaining formal training and approved qualifications in the services they deliver, as this is not only great for their clients and businesses, but also for upholding the reputation of our profession,” Angie said.

To contact Beauty Therapy Training Australia ph: 07 5599 5568.

EXCITING NEW LAUNCH The Global Beauty Group is excited to announce the launch of the BioHydroderm Trinity™ that has just been released on to the market as the new wave in hi-tech microdermabrasion equipment, following the success of the Bio-Hydroderm machine.

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“Featuring an ultra-sleek design, digital control system and full digital display, it is now easier than ever to perform outstanding microdermabrasion services,” Kane Hammond, Managing Director of the GBG stated.

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Beauty Therapy Training Australia (BTTA), a Queensland-based RTO, was the first to be granted government funding for the delivery of the Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL/Laser Hair Reduction as part of the National Workplace Development Fund.

The NWDF is a government co-contribution funded initiative to assist salon businesses gain greater support through better qualified staff.

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BTTA launches first government-funded training program in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction

This is a new-generation device that functions on a fully computerised system, is lightweight, quiet to run and requires very little energy to

ROYAL BABY AND THE CHANGE IN FRAGRANCE PREFERENCES The perfume industry in undergoing a trend shift with a new and stronger focus on healthy, fresh and food-based aromas. According to UK fragrance manufacturer Ungerer Limited we will see a coming back to old values with traditional habits such as afternoon tea that will influence a new direction in fragrances in 2014. It would appear that the birth of the new royal baby has also something to do with the trend for more wholesome gourmand scents that blend delicately with fruit and flowers.

The smell of freshly cut flowers, herb tea and sparking fruit juices and fruity jams will have a strong influence as fragrances embrace food and beverageinspired scents. No doubt the growing awareness of environment issues and a focus away from harmful chemicals has many looking for a more natural approach, also to wholesome aromas that reflect a nostalgic leaning to all things natural and wholesome.

operate. The flow and aspiration of the treatment can be adjusted easily with the touch of a button with three intuitive settings– high, medium and low providing a far more thorough service as opposed to the guesswork and estimating that comes along with knob dial functions.

Additionally, the Bio-Hydroderm Trinity™ boasts an advanced crystal-free exfoliation technology thanks to its ergonomic diamond tip handpiece – this fantastic feature eliminates the concern of crystal debris remaining on the skin's surface. As well as providing deep exfoliation, the handpiece also efficiently vacuums up all the cellular debris and treatment product into a waste bottle for convenient disposal. The device is used with specially formulated Aquafuse solutions that deeply penetrate and hydrate the skin with powerful ingredients designed to address a range of skin concerns, from signs of ageing and skin brightening to acne management.

Contact: The Global Beauty Group on 1300 660 687 www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au

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APJ 110

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COSMETIC AND DERMATOLOGY COMMUNITY LOSES LEADER IN FIELD OF ANTIOXIDANT TECHNOLOGY & SKIN CANCER PREVENTION Dr. Sheldon Pinnell, an internationally eminent scientist, dermatologist, leading scientist behind L'Oréal-owned SkinCeuticals, and J. Lamar Callaway Professor Emeritus of Dermatology and Chief Emeritus of the Division of Dermatology at Duke University, passed away peacefully in Durham, North Carolina on Thursday, July 4, 2013 just as the fireworks began to sparkle in celebration of Independence Day. He was aged 76.

Dr. Pinnell's investigative research has changed the way the world uses topical antioxidants today. As the founding father of topical antioxidants, he was the first to patent a stable form of vitamin C proven through peer-reviewed research to effectively penetrate skin, delivering eight times the skin's natural antioxidant protection.

Before helping to shape the cosmeceutical industry, Dr. Sheldon Pinnell led major advances in the understanding of skin biology and the pathogenesis of skin diseases. Early in his career, he made seminal contributions to the understanding of Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome and the role of vitamin C in collagen biosynthesis. Dr. Pinnell has been globally recognised for his contributions to science and skincare, most recently receiving an honorary membership to the Society for Investigative Dermatology.

Over his lifetime, he also received numerous medical and scientific awards including The Best Doctors in America, The International Who's Who in Medicine, Who's Who in Science and Engineering, and Who's Who in America. Dr. Pinnell has published more than 200 scientific articles in peer-reviewed journals on dermatology topics such as photoageing, collagen synthesis, UV protection, topical vitamin C, and other antioxidants. Dr. Pinnell also authored approximately 20 book chapters and holds 10 patents.

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“It is our greatest privilege to have been able to help Dr. Pinnell bring his discovery of topical antioxidants to life. Prior to the introduction of topical vitamin C in the early 1990s, skincare professionals were largely limited to sunscreens to protect against the deleterious effects of the sun. It was Dr. Pinnell who gave the medical community the confidence to transform the approach to at-home skincare. We are fortunate to have known Dr. Pinnell as a scientist, a family man, and a dear friend. His life lessons and infectious spirit will remain with us forever,” said SkinCeuticals Co-Founders, Alden Pinnell and Russell Moon.

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“We are honored to have had the chance to know and work with Dr. Pinnell over the years. It was his breakthrough research that propelled the use of topical antioxidants within the skincare industry. Today, topical antioxidants are widely recognised as an essential component for maintaining and protecting healthy skin. Most US dermatologists now recommend that patients incorporate an antioxidant into their daily skincare routine. Everything he has taught us, as well as

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar

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Oct20-21 Premier Birmingham Birmingham/Jefferson Convention Center Birmingham, AL USA T: +1 407.265.3131 F: +1 407.265.3134 Oct 27

his passion for discovery, will continue to live on daily through all of us here at SkinCeuticals. I personally have grown and learnt an enormous amount from Dr. Pinnell, and he will be dearly missed,” said SkinCeuticals Global General Manager, Marc Toulemonde.

“Dr. Pinnell's philosophy and dedication to advancing science in the cosmeceutical landscape is unlike any we have ever seen, and he remains an inspiration for us today. It is our esteemed privilege to have had the opportunity to learn from the 'Founding Father of Topical Antioxidants' and introduce a range of products that changed the way we care for our skin globally,” said Brigitte Liberman, World Wide President, L'Oréal Active Cosmetic Division.

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APAN Australian Aesthetics Conference – Gold Coast Royal Pines Resort T: 07 55930360 F: 07 55930367 E: info@apanetwork.com

Oct 27-28 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Pennsylvania Convention Center Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, USA T: + 1 305 443-2322 F: + 1 305 443-1664 E: registration@lneonline.com Oct31-Nov1 Anti-Aging Conference H Hotel 1 Sheikh Zayed Road Dubai, UAE T: +1 561 9970112 F: +1 561 9970287 Nov7-11

CIDESCO World Congress Wuhan International Conference & Exhibition Center Wuhan, China T: + 41 44 448 22 00 F: + 41 44 448 22 01 E: info@cidesco.com

Nov13-15 Cosmoprof ASIA Convention & Exhibition Centre Hong Kong T: +852-2827 6211 F: +852-3749 7345 E: joanne.fai@ubm.com Dec12-15 20th Annual World Congress on Anti-Aging Medicine and Biomedical Technologies Venetian Resort Hotel Casino Las Vegas, Nevada T: + 1-561-997-0112

“Dr. Pinnell had an energy and enthusiasm for life and a knowledge of dermatology that was second to none. He will be missed by his many colleagues and by dermatologists globally,” said Jean Krutmann, M.D., Professor of Dermatology and Environmental Medicine at the Heinrich-Heine-Universität Düsseldorf.

Dr. Pinnell was accomplished in so many ways, but most particularly he would like to be remembered as a loving husband, father, grandfather, and ardent Duke Blue Devil fan. Dr. Pinnell is survived by his wife, Dr. Doren Madey Pinnell; three sons, Kevin, Alden and Tyson; and five grandchildren.

A small, private ceremony was held on Monday, July 8th, in Duke University gardens. Later this year, a celebration of his life will be held at the Duke University Chapel, in conjunction with the dedication of the Pinnell Center for Investigative Dermatology. In lieu of flowers, contributions in Dr. Pinnell's honor may be made to Duke University (PO Box 90581, Durham, NC 27701).

Contributions may be designated for the Pinnell Center for Investigative Dermatology, or for Duke Athletics, the Sarah P Duke Memorial Gardens, and/or Nasher Museum of Art.

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APJ 111

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The best-kept Secret to improving your SALES FIGURES AND GROWING YOUR BUSINESS

By Rodney Jones

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The most successful salespeople I have met have the following attributes operating in their lives, they make people feel comfortable and as such the sales experience is an enjoyable moment and not something looked back upon with negative emotions.

These individuals have established certain attributes in their lives which make the sale process an extension of themselves and not something added to their job description. Sales isn't something they do, it is who they are! In other words, they believe that what they do brings assistance to the individuals they interact with, they have faith in their service or product, and they believe that they can improve the client's quality of life. So what are good attributes that can support a

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successful sales outcome and experience? recommendations for you to consider:

Here are some

KEYS TO DEVELOPING SUCCESSFUL ATTRIBUTES IN SALES Sales! The word sends different thoughts and emotions to each person.

We need to be honest and ask ourselves, what emotions do we experience when we think about our service or products?

These emotions will tell us what we really believe at a heart level! Is it joy or peace? If it is, it means that you are comfortable and have faith in your services or product and therefore you can expand naturally by incorporating the sale process into your normal mode of operation.

However, if the emotion you are feeling when thinking of sales is one of dread or fear then this is the first issue we have to deal with. The reason our heart has these emotions attached to the thought process of sales could be from past experiences of rejection or lack of success, or due to a lack of adequate information about your service or product.

SO HOW DO WE FIX THIS?

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We must speak differently about our sales routine. In other words, we must start to speak that what we have is of benefit to our clients!

This might mean we have to renew the way we think about them to gain further in-depth knowledge about their benefits. You can also expand on this conviction by talking to people who have experienced your service or products and let them tell you what benefits they have gained, then immerse yourself in those positive thoughts and allow them to alter the way you relate to what it is you wish to promote and sell.

We must take away the financial pressure of a sale.

What this means is that we

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APJ 112

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cannot be desperate, whether the sale is made or not is not important. The key focus should be on helping our client and not the money. The money will flow when our clients' needs are being met.

Do not take a rejection as a personal issue, they are not rejecting you, but through some reason they are not accepting your service or product. It is a great life skill to be able to ask questions at this point in time to find out the reason for the rejection.

I have found that the most important tool in creating a great sales attitude is to see people differently. Most salespeople I meet see people as an obstacle to defeat in order to gain a sale. This is far from the truth. People are your sale's objective. When you start to see them as the sale then you will not only approach them in a different way, but begin to enjoy the process of sales, because as every person is not the same so also be your sales approach.

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The key to this is seeing every person as your next best friend, be truly interested in them and what they have to say. As you develop this skill you will forget about trying to parrot off features and start to know the person and understand their needs! When people believe that you are interested in them their barriers will start to fall and they will tell you exactly what they want or need. I guarantee you will hardly even talk about the product or service or the features associated with it, instead the client will come into a position of trust with you and will naturally have confidence and faith in what you recommend because of the rapport you have built.

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It is at this point that we continue to put first how we can solve our client's concerns, pain or needs, making this the centre of our focus

and not our bottom line. The bottom line will come with happy clients.

In today's commodity-driven world consumers are seeking those who respect them for who they are and are looking to solve their problems, enrich their life and make it better, whether this is through a product or a service.

The era of achieving sales through slick sales talk no longer works as the modern consumer can see straight through such approaches. The non-verbal and verbal attitude and approach that reflects genuine care for the individual as the underlying reason why you are promoting a service or a product to them will ultimately be the key to a successful transaction. It will also lead to repeat business for your salon and you will benefit from the best advertising you can ever get – word of mouth!

In summary, consider winning people as your sales objective, focus on them and their needs as the priority and not the financial gain. When people are happy the finances will flow naturally.

Rodney Jones of QCL has extensive experience in the banking and finance sector as well as a presenter in investment property seminars. He is a fully licensed real estate agent and a successful business owner who understands the value of good sales strategies for business growth.

Rodney has extensive experience in staff development and training, specialising in customer service and sales success. He has formulated successful training methods and delivered this training to a staff workforce of over 40 to achieve targets and build client loyalty.

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APJ 113

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

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located in Australia and importantly, results are available to practitioners within a week.

BIOCEUTICALS® ANNOUNCES GENETIC TESTING ALLIANCE FOR ADVANCED PERSONALISED HEALTHCARE ®

BioCeuticals and MyGene have announced an exclusive agreement that will give integrative healthcare practitioners a clearer picture of how to treat their patients' potential health risks using the latest evidence-based genetic testing.

The alliance between BioCeuticals, Australia's leading provider of practitioneronly nutritional and therapeutic supplements, and MyGene, the Australian-owned worldclass laboratory for genetic testing, provide a synergy of services for healthcare practitioners. Nutrigenomics and Nutrigenetics are the fastest-moving areas of science and help healthcare professionals build the evidence base for a more targeted and personalised healthcare approach, which leads to better health outcomes for patients.

BioCeuticals Managing Director Kerry Cunningham said the alliance with MyGene highlights the company's commitment to advancing a truly integrated health offering for practitioners, by providing diagnostic tools to better understand the underlying cause of patients' health issues.

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“Understanding the mechanisms of health issues using genetic testing further advances the knowledge and diagnostic capability of our practitioners, and is core to BioCeuticals' strategy,” Ms Cunningham said.

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“Our association with MyGene offers accurate, affordable Nutrigenetic testing that uncovers a patient's risk for conditions that can be countered with appropriate advice from their healthcare practitioner. Clearly this will yield significant benefits for patients.

“Health practitioners can order MyGene

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genetic tests and use the results to accurately tailor a personalised health prescription, which combines diet, exercise and, if clinically indicated, the relevant nutritional supplements.”

MyGene Managing Director Nick Argyrou said MyGene works in partnership with healthcare professionals to deliver purposeful and clinically relevant Nutrigenetic tests that help highlight patient-specific risks and the associated dietary changes required in order to help decrease that risk.

“Advances in genetic testing mean that it is now faster and more affordable than ever before, providing practitioners with the tools to follow a truly preventive model of healthcare through a clear understanding of potential causes of health issues.

“MyGene tests are based on strong scientific research using rigorous inclusion criteria to identify a patient's risk for a range of conditions, which can then potentially be reversed or even avoided with the right intervention,” Mr Argyrou said. “Our stateof-the-art laboratory and life science team is

“MyGene's association with BioCeuticals reaffirms our commitment to delivering solutions to practitioners that provide an indepth understanding of the vital role that genetics plays in preventive healthcare strategies.”

www.bioceuticals.com.au Ph: 02 9080 0900

LASER LIPOLYSIS BOOSTS COLLAGEN PRODUCTION Laser lipolysis is effective for stimulating collagen production and skin tightening with less recovery time than surgery, according to findings presented at the Society of Interventional Radiology’s annual meeting.

Abbas Chamsuddin, M.D., lead author of the study, reviewed outcomes of 2,183 patients ages 17 to 73 who underwent laser-assisted lipolysis and liposuction between February 2009 and July 2012. The treatments were performed on the patients' necks, love handles, arms, abdomen, breasts, thighs and calves, according to a news release.

Researchers measured all patients' weight, diameter of area treated and skin tightness prior to treatment and at all follow-up appointments.

Follow-up was daily for one week, then at one, three and six months. All treatment areas demonstrated improvement in skin tightening and reduction of fat bulk.

“The laser uses targeted energy to ‘zero in’ on the fat, without affecting the other tissue, enabling a faster recovery,” according to the news release.

“Combining traditional liposuction with laser lipolysis has now been shown to produce well-sculpted bodies with tight skin,” said Dr. Chamsuddin. “We are able to give people things such as a tighter abdomen without the need for surgery.”

Ref: http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.co m/dermatology-times/news/laser-lipolysisboosts-collagenproduction#sthash.bpKhMwIV.dpuf

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other topics relevant to practitioners whose aim is to help improve their patients' health as well as stave off the onset of degenerative diseases.”

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Nathan Cheong, Prof Michael Holick, Kerry Cunningham

WORLD EXPERTS CALL FOR PREVENTION IN HEALTHCARE Prevention was the pivotal topic discussed by world leaders in Integrative Medicine and Healthcare at the BioCeuticals® Research Symposium 2013 (May 10 & 11, 2013).

As over-burdened health systems struggle to meet the demands of the baby boomer generation as well as a population struggling with the knock-on effects of obesity and other lifestyle diseases, speakers called for the evolution of the healthcare model with immediate effect. The theme of the inaugural BioCeuticals® Research Symposium 'Research, Innovation, Reality” showcased this exciting area of healthcare, with clinical updates on the latest advances in nutritional medicine and evidence-based complementary therapies presented to over 230 practitioners from around Australia.

The opening speech by Marcus Blackmore, Chairman of the Blackmores Group of companies including BioCeuticals, highlighted the role that consumers are playing in demanding a change in healthcare from a 'sickness' model to a 'wellness' model, one that aims to prevent the onset of health issues using evidence-based complementary therapies as a key pillar, rather than treating the symptoms of sickness with drugs. The growth in the use of supplements is testament to that.

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Facilitator, Dr Mark Donohoe, Integrative GP and renowned expert in chronic fatigue syndrome and toxicology, said, “The B io C e u t i ca ls R e s ear c h S y mp os i um highlighted the best in Preventative Healthcare that integrates evidence-based complementary therapies ensuring optimum health, for as long as possible, with littleknown side-effects.

“The international speakers did not disappoint,” he said. “We heard from world leaders in herbal medicine, vitamin D and integrative cancer therapies among many

While Australians enjoy one of the highest life expectancies in the world, not all Australians are necessarily the healthiest people in the world. Compared to OECD countries, Australia has one of the highest rates of obesity, with 1 in 4 Australian adults and 1 in 12 children categorised as obese.

Chronic diseases take up more than 70 per cent of Australia's total healthcare expenditure. The need to evolve to a preventative healthcare model integrating evidence-based complementary medicine with traditional medicine is absolutely key.

The BioCeuticals Research Symposium highlighted the potential for healthcare practitioners to safely and effectively integrate complementary therapies into their patient protocols to help maintain optimal health.

Renowned for manufacturing and delivering premium quality integrative medicines to healthcare practitioners, BioCeuticals aims to consistently raise the standards of naturalbased therapies.

For more information www.bioceuticals.com.au

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to

MICRONUTRIENTS MAY PLAY ROLE IN SKINCARE AND DERMATOLOGIC DISEASES Some of the hottest cosmeceutical and nutraceutical products incorporate trace minerals and other micronutrients that play a vital role in skin health and overall health, according to an expert.

The human genome project finished three years early because researchers found far fewer genetic sequences than anticipated, “And the information in the genetic code didn't tell everything about the individual.”

This is where epigenetics, the study of heritable changes in genome function that occur without a change in DNA sequence applies.

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GENETICS AND EPIGENETICS “Epigenetic changes allow the body to turn on and turn off certain parts of the DNA code that may be necessary at one point in time, but not necessarily at another. For example, a child in utero makes fetal hemoglobin,” which is necessary until the child is born. Turning off the genes that result in fetal hemoglobin production occurs partly through epigenetics, Dr. Draelos says.

One way that the body alters the genetic code involves adding methyl groups, which can come from folic acid, to DNA, she says.

“Prenatal vitamins are very high in folic acid because pregnant women who don't get enough folic acid could have a child born with a neural tube defect.” Vitamin B12 also can fuel methylation, she says.

Regarding dermatology, research has shown a link between folic acid intake and hair colour.

Specifically, brown-headed male and female agouti mice produced strawberry blonde offspring when the mother was fed a folicacid-deficient diet (Cooney AC, Wolff GL: Patent Application 09/330771).

“We've always learnt in dermatology that the dark genes are dominant. If you have a brunette father and mother, the child will probably be a brunette, if you follow Mendelian genetics. Epigenetics totally changes that.”

In the folic-acid-deficient agouti mouse scenario, “Not only does the baby have

Diet and other factors that accumulate over a lifetime sometimes can override genetic coding, says Zoe Draelos, M.D., a dermatologist in private practice in High Point, N.C., and consulting professor, department of dermatology, Duke University School of Medicine.

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strawberry blonde hair, but that genetic line is changed from that point forward,” Dr. Draelos says. “The offspring of that mouse will also have a gene for strawberry blonde hair, even though its grandparents had no such gene.”

ACCELERATED AGEING Moreover, Dr. Draelos says, the strawberry blonde mouse born to the folic-acid-deficient mother also will suffer from obesity, type 2 diabetes and an increased cancer risk.

“Therefore, epigenetic changes impact not only melanin production and appearance, but also the ageing of that mouse, because diabetes and developing cancer at an early age are considered signs of accelerated ageing.”

In light of the worldwide rise in obesity and type 2 diabetes, she says, researchers are carefully studying such epigenetic changes.

Along with type 2 diabetes and cancer, Dr. Draelos adds, epigenetic changes have been identified in dermatologic diseases such as the following: ! psoriasis (Zhang P, Su Y, Lu Q. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2012;26(4):399-403) ! melanoma (Patino WD, Susa J. Adv Dermatol. 2008;24:59-70. Review) See more at: http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com/der matology-times/RC/tags/cosmeceuticals/anti-agingdiscoveries-micronutrients-diseaserole#sthash.MfqWhNsi.dpuf

developments in the field of vascular lasers.

Roy Geronemus, M.D., and colleagues reported their experience with a novel 532 nm potassium titanyl phosphate (KTP) laser (Excel V, Cutera) for port wine stains (PWS) (Reddy KK, Brauer JA, J Drugs Dermatol.

2013;12(1):66-71). Five subjects were enrolled with PWS of the body that had previously been treated with multiple pulsed dye laser (PDL) sessions with what they termed mild or unsatisfactory response.

The investigators treated the PWS at four different purpuric KTP laser settings with the following parameter ranges: 4.8-9 J/cm2, 6-10 mm spot, 3 ms to 6 ms pulse duration, 5 degrees Celsius contact cooling, and left an adjacent control site untreated. After the single treatment all sites exhibited at least 1 grade of color improvement.

Immediate post-treatment histology showed vascular injury up to 4 mm depth and onemonth follow-up histology revealed reduction in number of vessels and vessel diameter at all levels of the dermis. The authors state that the combination of large spot sizes and short pulse durations allows for considerable penetration of the KTP laser, and perhaps more effective treatment of many different cutaneous vascular lesions.

revealed clearance of large vessels >20µm, but not smaller vessels typically present in PWS resistant to PDL. The authors noted that the parameters have yet to be optimised, however, this combination treatment was safe, well tolerated, and could represent a breakthrough in the laser treatment of PWS.

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Vascular lasers have multiple applications beyond treating cutaneous vascular lesions, including scars, striae and verrucae, among others. Two recent studies have bolstered the evidence of the 595 nm PDL for the treatment of nail psoriasis. Pulsed dye laser is thought to improve psoriatic lesions by targeting their supporting vasculature, as well as by reducing the number of helper and cytotoxic T cells and normalising epidermal turnover (Hern S, Stanton AWB, Mellor RH, et al. Br J Dermatol. 2005;152(1):60-65).

See more at: http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com/der matology-times/news/deviceevolution#sthash.7Q5AcTdP.dpuf

PDL RESISTANCE

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VASCULAR LASER RESEARCH REVEALS ADVANCED TREATMENT OPTIONS Vascular lasers and light sources have evolved significantly since the theory of selective photothermolysis was published in 1983 (Anderson RR, Parrish JA. Science.

1983;220(4596):524-527). This month's column will review some interesting recent

Approximately 20 per cent of PWS are estimated to be resistant to PDL (Renfro L, Geronemus RG. Arch Dermatol.

1993;129(2):182-188). A group from Germany recently reported a unique approach to PWS laser treatment (Klein A, Szeimies RM, Bäumler W, et al. Br J Dermatol. 2012;167(2):333342). In a trial of 28 patients with PWS, researchers utili s ed intravenous indocyanine green (ICG), an exogenous chromophore with a maximum absorption at approximately 810 nm, followed by an 805 nm diode laser (20-50 J cm/2, 10-25 ms pulse), which affords deeper penetration depth than PDL. Controls included PDL (6 J/cm2, 0.45 ms pulse) and diode without ICG. Blinded investigators favoured the cosmetic appearance and clearance of the diode plus ICG group, although the results did not achieve significance. Despite the greater level of discomfort of the combination treatment, a significantly higher percentage of patients preferred diode plus ICG to PDL. Histology

UPDATES IN LASER THERAPY Several experts shared their techniques for working with lasers to treat photoageing, wrinkles, laser dermabrasion and other therapeutic approaches during the 2013 Vegas Cosmetic Surgery and Aesthetic Dermatology meeting in Las Vegas.

David J. Goldberg, M.D., J.D., director of the Skin Laser & Surgery Specialists of New York and New Jersey, offered results of an interesting split-face comparison between

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fractional Er:YAG and fractional CO2 lasers.

He pointed to the results of several studies that ultimately supported his conclusion that all of the fractional ablative lasers are effective.

there's some crusting around the lips, by day five the patient's skin is nearly epitheliased, and by day nine the skin is fully epitheliased, but may have some redness. By day 14, that redness has faded.

Results indicated statistical improvement in photoageing in all patients. No device was statistically significantly superior to another, he found. And, no statistically significant differences were found in the pain scores among the devices. And histologically, there were also no differences.

Dr. Fezza notes about a 90 per cent wrinkle reduction with this technique and says the results he gets have augmented his practice.

“The bottom line is it's your experience and comfort with using the system,” Dr. Goldberg says. “So when people come to your office and try to sell you these systems, the reality is that the good systems all work and it's simply a matter of getting comfortable and that leads to good results.”

For more updates on laser techniques and other news presented at the conference, visit http://www.dermatologytimes.com/VCS2013 Read live updates and tips from conference presenters by following our Twitter page @DermTimesNow.

However, Dr. Fezza notes that many of the patients he treats have a disproportional amount of heavy wrinkles around the perioroal area, and these are challenging to treat because they're deeper set and more resilient to other skin-tightening modalities, he said.

He shared his technique for laserbrasion, which includes:

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20 ccs of tumescent around the lips to plump them out to deliver anesthetic. This stretches the wrinkles, effaces the deep lines and, he feels, allows better penetration of either the laser or the sander.

Two to three passes of CO2 laser, after which he cleans the area and re-evaluates.

If the patient is still in need of wrinkle reduction, he proceeds to dermalsanding.

He uses Frigiderm on the upper lip to tighten and freeze and then proceeds.

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Dr. Fezza displayed images typical of the results he's seen demonstrating that at day one

Adding a company logo to a giveaway can be help build brand-awareness, but not if the item is a label on something disposable like a water bottle, she says. "Consider the longevity of the piece you're buying to put your logo on," Ms. Drumm says. Ms. Drumm suggested putting a company name and logo on a tube of lip balm because it will last for a while, and it's relatively inexpensive.

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If the décor of your practice is topnotch and organised, the next thing patients notice after walking in the door is your staff. Building relationships and trust with physicians, nurses and other staff members is important. This can easily be achieved by putting together a welcome folder that contains short biographies of doctors as well as a welcome letter and possibly the doctor's CV, Ms. Drumm says.

John Fezza, M.D., who practises in Sarasota, Fla., discussed his technique for laserbrasion, which he described as the combination of the heavy ablative CO2 laser augmented with dermasanding. He finds that in his practice, this technique is a safe and effective way to treat heavy perioral wrinkles and he shared case studies that demonstrated the quality of results he feels are typical in his practice.

“Treatment of wrinkles with laser resurfacing alone I think for moderate wrinkles does a pretty good job, it reduces the lines and it works well,” Dr. Fezza says. He finds about a 70 per cent wrinkle reduction around the perioral area in patients with moderate wrinkles when treated with laser alone.

notes where you can add some nice touches to enhance the experience," she says. "Your office should be a place that people look forward to going to.”

BRANDING TIPS FOR BUILDING YOUR DERMATOLOGY OR COSMETIC SURGERY PRACTICE With medspas and new dermatology and cosmetic surgery practices popping up all over the place, standing out in the crowd can prove difficult.

Building a brand is essential to maintaining patients and drawing in news ones, according to presenters during a practice management session at the 2013 Vegas Cosmetic Surgery and Aesthetic Dermatology meeting recently.

Tracy Drumm, vice-president of aesthetic practice marketing firm IF Marketing, has boiled brand marketing down into three key points: experience, relationships and outcome-based marketing.

When patients enter your practice, they should have the most positive experience possible, Ms. Drumm says. "Have someone in your staff walk around your office and make

"What we want to remember is people buy from people before brands," Ms. Drumm says. In addition to physician profiles, having patient profiles and success stories will speak louder than simply showing before and after photos. Practices can a packet of patients that not only includes before and after photos, but also a relaxed, fun photo of the patient and a few sentences the patient wants to share about their life before and after the procedure.

"Commodities compete on prices, brands compete on intangible attributes," Ms. Drumm says. When working on building your practice's brand, you should also think about marketing campaigns and targeting specific audiences with varying media, says Grant Stevens, M.D., F.A.C.S. Dr. Stevens, owner of a plastic surgery practice in Marina Del Rey, Calif., has used emails, newsletters, his website, radio spots and billboards to attract attention and build a brand around the phrase "Freeze the Fat." The efforts have led to a huge growth in the number of patients who come to his practice because they are interested in the CoolSculpting (Zeltiq) results from the "Freeze the Fat" campaign.

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See more at: http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com/der matology-times/news/branding-tips-building-yourdermatology-or-cosmetic-surgerypractice#sthash.PbDSPE4U.dpuf

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INDIVIDUAL FLEXIBILITY ARRANGEMENTS What they can offer your business?

By Sophie Ware – Lawyer Pointon Partners Lawyers & Trademark Attorneys Misunderstanding and conflicts arise between employees and employers usually due to a lack of clarity about the terms of employment, conditions and expectations. For this reason work agreements are so important in any workplace setting and in particular in salons and clinics where hours of employment may be flexible, opening up the possibility of misunderstandings through a misinterpretation of the agreement.

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In accordance with the Fair Work Act 2009, Individual Flexible Arrangements are recommended, but are set rules on how these need to be set up. Pointon Partner Lawyers are experts in this field and the official lawyers of APAN. In this article Sophie Ware explains what is needed to implement an Individual Flexible Arrangement, the pitfalls and areas you need to consider.

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Engaging in flexible work practices can prove to be beneficial for both employees and employers. Section 3 of the Fair Work Act 2009 (Cth) ('the Act') lists its objective as being to ‘provide a balanced framework for cooperative and productive workplace relations that promotes national economic prosperity and social inclusion for all Australians’. A recent Full Bench of the Fair Work Commission ('FWC') decision acknowledged that obtaining such balance required balancing the interests of business, unions, work, family through

fairness and flexibility. Pursuant to this objective, the Act attempts to improve flexibility by the implementation of Individual Flexibility Arrangements ('IFAs'), allowing for necessary variations to Modern Awards and Enterprise Agreements to facilitate the requirements of employers and individual employees.

More recently there has been a push to increase the scope of IFAs and their discretion to vary more than is currently allowed, for example, implementing preferred hours and minimum engagement periods within IFAs. To date much of this has been unsuccessful. However, with the Full Bench decision, which considered some 15 applications to vary the standard award flexibility provisions in 10 Modern Awards, some relief for employers and employees has been realised, with an increased notice period of 13 weeks required to terminate an IFA. This development provides much needed stability for all involved.

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HOW DO YOU CREATE AN INDIVIDUAL FLEXIBILITY ARRANGEMENT? Most Modern Awards contain a standard flexibility provision, allowing an employer and an individual employee to agree on an arrangement varying the effect of specified parts of the award.

Section 144(4) of the Act provides that the standard flexibility term

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must specify which clauses of the Modern Award may be varied by an IFA. Currently the only matters, which may be addressed and varied by use of an IFA are: 1. When work is performed (for example, hours, rostering, breaks and notice periods); 2. Overtime rates 3. Penalty rates 4. Allowances, and 5. Leave loading.

When entering into an IFA the following must be taken into consideration at all times: 1. The employer must ensure that the employee has understood and agrees to the IFA 2. The employer must have concern for the cultural differences impacting the employees understanding of the IFA 3. An employee entering into an IFA must be an existing employee of the employers’ (i.e. it cannot be offered to a prospective employee) 4. Neither an individual employee nor the employer may be coerced or forced to enter into an IFA; and 5. An employee cannot be treated adversely for refusing to enter into an IFA. For an IFA to be effective it must be in writing and signed by both the employer and the employee. In the event the employee is under the age of 18, it must also be signed be the employee's parent/guardian. Further, both the employee and the employer must receive a copy of the executed IFA. In all circumstances it is the employer's responsibility to ensure that the proposed IFA satisfies the BOOT test and meets all requirements under the Act.

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POINTON PARTNERS LAWYERS

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If you have any queries in relation to this article or any other legal issues affecting your business please feel free to contact Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners.

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APAN members receive an initial free consultation in relation to any legal queries or issues they may have.

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Pointon Partners is a client-focused commercial law firm based in Melbourne, but which services clients nationally. Pointon Partners is able to assist with: ! advice on obligations under the Fair Work Act & the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010; ! preparation of employment contracts; ! advice on termination of staff & defending of unfair dismissal claims; ! registration of trademarks; ! trademark disputes; ! preparation or review of commercial leases; ! negotiation & preparation of commercial contracts; ! franchising; ! wills and estate planning; and ! buying or selling a business.

Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners can be contacted on (03) 9614 7707 or by email mjb@pointonpartners.com.au or ah@pointonpartners.com.au

THE BOOT TEST In order to be effective, entering into an IFA must result in the employee being better off overall than had the employee been if an IFA was not entered into. In order to establish that the BOOT test has been passed employers will normally need to show what the employee would have received financially had they not been under an IFA, and what they would receive when engaged pursuant to an IFA. Further, the Full Bench decision provided that the BOOT test is assessed at the time the IFA is entered into, and not throughout the term of employment.

PENALTIES IFAs do not need to be registered or approved by the FWC, however, in the event an IFA is incorrectly drafted and implemented there are penalties for the employer.

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In the event an IFA is entered into incorrectly the terms of the IFA will continue to apply to the employment relationship as if the IFA was entered into correctly. This is to ensure that while it is essentially invalid, the employee still enjoys the benefits and advantages provided to them as a result of the IFA, had it been entered into correctly. However, in the event the employee desires to terminate the IFA they may do so on the grounds that they are being disadvantaged.

Should this occur, the employee may take action against the respective employer for damages and penalties to the applicable circumstances.

In the event an employer fails to ensure that an IFA is made correctly, and entered into following correct procedure, monetary penalties will apply as follows:

1. Individual employers – $10,200; and 2. Body Corporate employers – $51,000

TERMINATION OF AN IFA Under standard circumstances an IFA may be terminated unilaterally by either the employer or the employee with written notice. Following the recent Full Bench decision an IFA may only be terminated with 13 weeks' notice. Prior to the Full Bench decision IFAs could be terminated upon four weeks' notice.

There are clear benefits for both employers and employees when entering into IFAs. They may assist not only by providing administrative ease to employers and allowing them to retain employees they otherwise may have lost, but allow employees flexibility while being assured that they are receiving the minimum entitlements, and in fact are better off overall than had they not entered into an IFA. While they appear simple to prepare, in reality there are some pitfalls to their implementation and execution. Employers must tread carefully in this respect and ensure that all IFAs satisfy the BOOT test, follows legislative requirements and are entered into correctly. There are significant penalties for employers should this not be followed.

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Pointon Partners has extensive experience in advising on the above issues, including the preparation of IFAs. If you have any queries or require any assistance in this area please contact Michael Bishop or Sophie Ware.

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Understanding PIGMENATION and how to successfully treat it The demand for safe, effective products that will help depigment, brighten and even-out skin tone for clients that are suffering from hyperpigmentation from UV exposure, hormonally stimulated pigment and Post Inflammatory Pigmentation (PIH) is definitely on the rise.

Understanding how pigmentations is formed is critical in determining how to deal with it and what to look for in your ingredient listing and formulations.

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HOW DOES MELANIN FORM? There are several steps that need to occur in order for melanin pigment to be produced. This 'sequential pathway' is the same for all humans.

The differences in the resulting skin colour are due to the quantity and types of pigment chemicals that exist in the individual.

WHAT IS MELANIN?

THE MELANOGENIC PATHWAY

Melanin is a pigmented biopolymer that gives our skin, hair and eyes their natural colour, and serves to protect the skin from UV exposure (it's a natural photo-protectant pigment). Think of it as your body's sunscreen that acts as a first responded when the immune system gets a signal that there is inflammation, or the skin has suffered any type of injury.

The process of melanin formation in the epidermis in a normally functioning skin that is not under cutaneous stress by UV, hormonal imbalances or injury needs to be understood first, before we can discuss the reasons why hyperpigmentation occurs and how to effectively target and treat problem of hyperpigmentation. Here is a brief description of the process:

WHERE IS MELANIN PRODUCED?

STEP 1: The Melanocyte and L-Tyrosine

Melanin is produced by the melanocyte, a specialised cell found in the stratum germanitivum (basal layer) of the Epidermis. Melanocytes account for between 5% and 10% of the cellular content of the basal cell layer of the epidermis and produce melanin to protect the skin from UV radiation. Approximately 1 out of every 9 cells in this layer is a melanocyte.

The process of melanin production begins within the melanocyte.

This is an amino acid that is present in every melanocyte. This is the very beginning of the entire chain reaction that has to take place in order for melanin to be delivered to the keratinocyte.

WHAT DETERMINES OUR NATURAL SKIN COLOUR?

No matter what nationality, we all have both types of pigment in our skin. The difference in the 'end result' of our skin colour is due to the amount and type of these two chemicals found in every skin, based on genetic makeup.

Bioelements has just lunched a new-generation formulation designed to fight pigmentation where it is caused and help you achieve great results. But let's first start by having a look at the science behind how pigmentation is formed:

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1. Uemelanin – Black-brown in colour 2. Phaomelanin – Yellow-red in colour

The colour of our skin and hair is determined mainly by the amount, distribution and type of melanin. This varies from person to person, but the end colour is largely determined by our genetic heritage. Every individual has two types of melanin in their skin:

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STEP 2: The Enzyme Tyrosinase is activated The next important link in the chain is KEY to the production of melanin; the activation of an enzyme called Tyrosinase. This enzyme is already present in the cell within membrane-bound organelles termed 'melanosomes', and are responsible for mediating the first and rate limiting step of melanogensis. Through a series of oxidative reactions, the enzyme becomes active and must be present in order melanin to form.

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STEP 3: Copper and other metallic ions accelerate tyrosinase function

damage that already exists.

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Natural metallic ion chemicals present and produced by the skin, are an important component to melanogenesis. They serve to partner with tyrosinase to speed up the entire synthesis of melanin.

Bioelements have developed a new formulation that targets tyrosine and slows down its ability to convert to tyrosinase. Since tyrosinase is a major key to melanin formation, inhibiting tyrosine is a safe and effective way to get the results we are looking for. Additionally, we need to soothe the skin, in order to prevent its tendency to signal the melanocyte to produce more pigment due to the injury response. If the skin is calm, no signal to surge melanin from the skin's immune system will occur.

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STEP 4: Tyrosinase is now converted to L-Dopa and then to pigments The reactionary process continues as tyrosinase is now ready to convert again, this time to an amino acid called L-Dopa (DOPAquinone). Once this conversion happens, then pigments begin to form.

STEP 5: Melanin is now formed inside the Melanosome sacs Now everything is ready. The next step in the 'chain' involves where the finished 'melanin' pigment begins. Melanin is ready to form inside the melanosome sacs, which will become the delivery system of melanin pigment to keratinocyte cells.

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Bioelements LightPlex GigaWatt Dark Spot Corrector and MegaWatt Skin Brightener utilise scientifically proven systems Both formulas contain a unique and powerful blend of complex scientific lab-strength and natural ingredients to safely and effectively depigment the skin. Each key ingredient shares a common function to limit the melanogenisis surge, surface inflammation (no matter the cause UV, hormonal stimuli or injury).

STEP 6: Dendrites transfer the melanin to the keratinocytes Now the melanocytes stretch out to deliver melanin to the destination site the keratinocytes. To keep this in scale, on average, every nine cells in the basal layer is a melanocyte, and one melanocyte reaches approximately 36 keratinocytes to transfer colour.

STEP 7: Skin colour change is complete The last step of melanogenesis occurs when the tip of the dendrite arm releases its cargo (melanin) to the surrounding cells. At this point, our skin colour changes.

THE THREE MAIN CAUSES OF HYPERPIGMENTATION

KEY INGREDIENTS

Now that we know how melanin is formed under normal circumstances, let's discuss what happens to the skin to cause our natural skin tone to deviate through acceleration of pigment production. The three main causes are:

GigaWhite: A novel skin-brightener developed from Alpine plants.

Gigawhite™ Blend: Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract,

1. UV Light Exposure 2. Hormonal Changes 3. Injury

WHAT HAPPENS TO THE MELANOGENSIS PROCESS AS A RESULT OF THE ABOVE? The skin acts as an immune network and through its pigments, provides a unique defense system against cutaneous stress (i.e. UV radiation). Thus, melanocytes transfer melanosomes through their dendrites to the keratinocytes, where they form the melanin caps that reduce UV-induced DNA damage in human epidermis. Anytime the skin's immune system senses a cutaneous inflammation response, it springs into action to protect itself, by revving up the melanogensis process. The more exposure to this 'stress', the more stimuli the skin has to produce even more pigment it's a viscous cycle.

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Each of these key ingredients focuses on slowing down the chain reaction that has to occur in order for the melanocyte to produce pigment (melanin). Although pigment production is necessary for normal skin function, each ingredient focuses on the damaged melanocyte that is over-producing pigment in response to injury on the surface of the skin. The part of the Melanogenesis Pathway Process that we want to inhibit is tyrosinase function. This achieves skin hypopigmentation to reduce the abnormal accumulation of melanin and bring it back to a normal level to unify skin colour.

This surge of melanin is synthesised within melanosomes and then is transported via the dendrites to adjacent keratinocytes, and accumulate within keratinocytes and melanocytes in the top portion of the cell called a supranuclear "cap". The cap is thought to shield DNA from UV rays. So what can we do to break this cycle?

Primula Veris Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Veronica Officinalis Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract Chromabright®: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate This patented molecule has significant brightening effects and shows no cytotoxic effects on melanocytes, keratinocytes or fibroblasts; no mutoinduces significant brightening, while fighting the signs of photo-ageing. Tests have shown that it can inhibit tyrosinase activity by 43%.

Alpha Arbutin: promotes skin brightening and evens out tone.

All key ingredients in both LightPlex GigaWatt and LightPlex MegaWatt formulas work together from different angles to target tyrosinase function. These tyrosinase inhibitors form a cohesive 'triple threat to hyperpigmentation in all of its forms.

1. LightPlex GigaWatt Dark Spot Corrector 2. LightPlex MegaWatt Skin Brightener 3. Bioelements LightPlex GigaWatt Facial work together to slow melanin production, decrease colour density, brighten the complexion and help prevent the skin damaging effects of UV radiation better than hydroquinone - with zero side effects.

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To slow down melanogensis we need to cause a disruption in the chain of steps mentioned above. By slowing down the melanogensis process and causing a disruption on the chain reaction, this allows the melanogenesis process to return to normal and fade the signs of past

Contact BIOELEMENTS and start winning the war against pigmentation Ph: 1300 262 275

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SKINSTITUT Retinol – Chirally Correct Reverses, prevents and repairs the appearance of skin damage

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Retinol is the most active and advanced product in the Skinstitut range. This is a corrective serum which uses encapsulation technology and penetration enhancers to effectively deliver the active ingredients deep within the skin to correct skin concerns such as sun damage, fine lines, uneven texture and acne.

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For most types, especially aged skin, breakout-prone and pigmented skin conditions.

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SYN-AKE, Peptides, Encapsulated Retinol, Olive extract

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Contins SYN-AKE and peptides Encapsulated advanced delivery system Retinol is a form of Vitamin A that promotes cell renewal in the skin by increasing collagen and elastin production. Skin appears smoother with a clearer, lifted and more even skin tone.

Apply one pump every other evening, building up to every evening on clear, dry skin.

Gently stroke outwards in a circular motion, slowly spreading on to the entire face, throat and chest.

Skinstitut Vitamin C may be added to increase efficacy.

SKINSTITUT – Experts in Skin Ph: 02 9460 7559 | skinstitut.com

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