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Winter Issue Volume 21. 2014
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Winter Issue Volume 21.
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The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812
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PRACTITIONERS Journal
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NEW POWER MEMBERSHIP APAN Launches New Corporate Membership
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ARE YOU READY FOR A NEW LEVEL OF BUSINESS SUCCESS?
New Tools | New Strategies | Faster Business Growth
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WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS. WE LOOK FORWARD TO BEING YOUR PARTNER. Call or email SKIN FACTORS - Progressive Solutions for your obligation-free info and sample kit. TOLL FREE 1800 824 282 E: info@christina-cosmeceuticals.com.au W: www.christina-cosmecuticals.com.au
INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9 50-52
CEO's Heart-2-Heart Report Australian Industry Leaders receive International Award of Honour 94-95 Aesthetic Bulletin 101-103 Product Innovations 116-118 Scientific News
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REGULATIONS, EDUCATION AND TRAINING
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Are you engaging a Medical Practitioner to perform injectibles procedures in your clinic or salon? 53 International Beauty Therapy Certification 74-77 Dermis – Much more than a bit of skin 32-83 Evidence of Cell Migration through electrical current 110-111 New Privacy Law that will affect your business
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 28-30 44 60-62 66-68 78-80 104 105 106-108 112-114 119-120 121-122
New Concepts in appearance and youthfulness Why Gluten-Free is the new trend in makeup formulations The risk and safety nets of keeping up with technology The Destruction of Collagen Skin Matrix – Its role in skin integrity and actives to enhance its degeneration The benefits of Himalayan Salt Lauric Acid: Offering new hope for acne and problematic skin Why is LED so valuable in Aesthetics and Cosmetic Medicine? Exploring the Peeling Factor Snow Algae offer new hope for skin longevity Coconut oil for good health, weight-loss and skin improvement
BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 14 16-20 24-25 26-27 84-88 90-92 96-97 98-100
Ask the Expert Is your business ready for new Growth and Prosperity? The changing consumer behaviour in the Mobile Age Does your business need a Makeover? Business News Discovering the synchrony between the Natural World, your Inner World and Your Business Michelle Killeen – A rising star at Aesthetica Why Authenticity is the “it” wold for the new breed of consumers
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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 32-33 37
Australian Aesthetics Conference program (Sydney) APAN Sydney Conference
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A5M 8th Anti-ageing and Aesthetic Medicine Conference New advances in Cosmetic Medicine APAN Australian Aesthetics Conference 2014
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While you are working…. Let us take care of your problems INDUSTRIAL RELATIONS ! Correct wage rates – Confirmed in writing by a lawyer ! Staffing Disputes – Learn your rights and obligations ! HR documents – legal requirement guidelines and documentation ! Regulatory Compliance
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BUSINESS ! Business Coaching/Mentoring ! Get the best cost-saving services ! Industry specific insurance ! Lowest Merchant banking rates ! ! ! ! ! !
guaranteed Supplier and Product company advice Member's First shopping discount card Business and marketing strategies Merchandising Certified Educational Conferences Industry Code of Ethics
And what else… Your interests are defended through lobbying and advocacy on your behalf with regulatory bodies and the government.
We don't just promise – we deliver Join as a member today! Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) For further information ph: 07 5593 0360 or download an Application Form www.apanetwork.com
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EDITOR’SNOTE
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s the saying goes “when the going gets tough, the tough get going”. Indeed, this year we have started the year running. Plans for our three conferences have kept us busy with some amazing information that will really give businesses great new tools to support their business growth and profitability. Our first conference for the year will be in Perth on May 25th. Our report on that will be in the next issue of APJ as at the time of writing this journal it has not as yet been staged.
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Following will be our Aesthetic Conference in Sydney on Monday 25th August, directly after the Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo. We have a great program for this event that we are profiling in this issue so please check it out and keep the dates in your diary if you will be in Sydney. Do try to attend as it will be a great investment and a lot of fun. Also don't forget to send staff members to the workshops. We have a different workshop for each of our events that will run concurrently with the conference programs. This is as a result of salon and clinic owners telling us that they need something more skills-oriented for the staff, as the conference program is definitely pitched at the business owner. If you would like to get your qualifications recognised at an international level check out how you can do this in the article on IPSN Awards in this issue. We have some great articles on ingredients and skin science that I trust you will also enjoy. Cosmetex this year was amazing, so we included some highlights as well as some articles from interviews we had with various speakers who presented there. There is nothing like attending an educational conference. As I said to a friend of mine I love knowledge, and in my capacity as editor, I really get to interview some brilliant minds. I hope you will agree with me when you read some of the articles we are featuring in this issue. The technological boom is constantly on the rise and I can assure you just from what I saw at Cosmetex there are some amazing new devices being launched, with multifunctionality being very much a key feature. It seems the consumers want it all and technological innovations are making sure we get devices that can perform a variety of tasks through various technologies and capabilities in the one device. Whatever the trends and advances you can be sure we will bring the most important news and information to you through our conference programs and well as through APJ Journal so I trust you will enjoy and benefit from this issue.
Stay committed to your passion.
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Editor
Welcome to APJ
Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com
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Typesetting & Graphics
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Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd
Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com
Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd
Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com
Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169
Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia
Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features
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John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa
ISSN: 1836-981 ㈵
Print Post Approved [100000257]
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FRONT COVER APAN CORPORATE PLUS MEMBERSHIP Ph: 07 5593 0360 or Email: info@apanetwork.com See pages 16-20 for further details. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.
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The CEO’s Heart-2-Heart REPORT
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Dear colleagues and friends
NEW MEMBERSHIP CLASSIFICATION
Each morning when I face my day there are at least 25 things on my to-do-list that must be completed by the end of the day. I need, energy and commitment to get through them, but most of all I need inspiration. That is why each morning there is an inspirational quote that I receive that helps me get through the day. So I have chosen to share with you today's one in the hope that it also inspires you. “Unless you try to do something beyond what you have already mastered, you will never grow,” it says. Well, if we are to stretch ourselves to grow, we may as well enjoy it. If nothing else, allow it to inspire us with an attitude of anticipation for better things ahead.
Whether you are an individual or a business, growth is essential in order to stay relevant. As an organisation APAN monitors the changing industry needs and we recently realised that there was still more that we could do to help our members. One area that most businesses could benefit from was to ensure a constant flow of new clients, so we decided to do something about it and developed our new APAN CORPORATE PLUS MEMBERSHIP. We are very excited because we believe the tools that come with this membership category have the potential to help businesses grow their client base and their business to a new level in a cost-effective way. Whether you are an APAN member or not I encourage you to check out the details of this program as it can help you in a real and tangible way to grow your business. You can read full details about it in our cover story on pages 16-20.
Indeed, there are two facets to effort – you either complain about having to stretch yourself, or choose to enjoy the ride.
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With our changing world one thing is for sure, there is no chance of ever getting bored. New technologies, new things to learn, new levels to reach, all stretching us to achieve just that little bit more each day, but in the journey of growth there is nothing better than the thrill of gaining new knowledge. Knowledge has the power to open up our horizons, and with new information we are empowered to see beyond our current capabilities and circumstances to new territories and new possibilities that make the journey of discovery rewarding. This is why I love education and always enjoy seeing how knowledge, when combined with passion, can totally transform a person.
For those who will be in Sydney for the International Spa and Beauty Expo I encourage you to also invest in attending the APAN Conference on Monday 25th August. We have put together an amazing educational and business program that we promise will give you some amazing information. The full conference program is also in this issue on pages 32-33 and 36. The calibre of knowledge that you will gain from this event will be the best investment for your profession and your business. Our conferences are also fully certified and are also tax deductible as they come under the tax classification as industry-specific professional development programs.
EVOLVE AND GROW
If you have never attended a medical conference I urge you to consider attending the A5M Anti-ageing and Aesthetic Medicine Conference. There are several Medical Cosmetic conferences you can attend, however, the one that is very close to my heart and my convictions is the A5M event, which is held in Melbourne every August.
A5M MEDICAL CONFERENCE
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Each day at our APAN office we engage with our members through our consulting services. We listen to their challenges and offer support and direction of options that are available to them. It is so rewarding to hear back from them a few months later with stories of success, business growth or restored relationships with a staff member. However, it takes courage on their part in the first place for them to reach out and seek help in order to identify the best options available to them. New information gave them new tools to address their problems, and as a result they have evolved what was a challenging situation to a place of greater success or personal growth and victory.
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A5M covers aesthetics as well as regenerative medicine. The information presented is scientific and based on sound evidence-based medical discoveries. What is amazing about this conference is that it combines both the internal as well as the external aspect of anti-ageing and also addresses disease prevention. Because of our professional alliance with A5M members of APAN can secure a discounted rate for registering for this conference. I cannot stress highly enough how
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SURVEY REPORT According to the recent survey conducted by the Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australasia (CPSA), 4 in 5 Australians consider managing ageing with laser, microdermabrasion, peels and injections. An overwhelming 82% of survey participants said they find it acceptable to have non-surgical cosmetic procedures to address premature ageing. The figure has increased 7% from last year's survey. Surprisingly, the survey found that 77% of men also responded similarly.
you will never grow.
“We are now discovering that more people who have undergone these procedures are open and willing to talk about their experiences, which has helped spread their popularity among men,” said Dr Catherine Porter, spokesperson for the CPSA.
OTHER FINDINGS INCLUDE: valuable this conference is. Whether you are a medical practitioner, dermal therapist or aesthetician you will gain a wealth of knowledge from this event.
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THE FUTURE
Out of the sample size around 10% have undergone treatments previously to tackle ageing and more than half claim that these procedures are part of their normal grooming routine 54% said they worry about looking old, around 10% less compared to 2013 The most preferred treatment for women was laser and IPL hair removal, for men, this was anti-wrinkle injections 25% of those who have undergone antiwrinkle injections are between 20-30
As I come to the end of my report I would like to encourage you all to look ahead and seriously consider ways to constantly grow your knowledge and determine to being a leader in your field. The future of our industry is very promising. I will address further specific information at my lecture in Sydney, however, in closing, I would like you to take a look at some recent statistics on consumer trends in Australia that were recently presented by the Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australasia.
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Committed to your progress
“Less people are now worried about ageing, which we believe is largely due to greater avoidance of sun, awareness of the treatments available, improved technology and procedures offering greater results with relatively little down time,” Dr Catherine said.
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Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer
For more information visit www.cosmeticphysicians.org.au
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Are you ready to become a leading expert as a Clinical Aesthetic Therapist? The continued advances in technology and the lack of adequate regulations to support the credibility of the aesthetic profession have necessitated the need for the introduction of a rigorous higher education degree. The aim of such qualifications is to support the industry with more advanced knowledge and stronger tools to meet current and future professional challenges and also secure a better future from a business perspective. Furthermore, as the demand for skin improvement and cosmetic medical procedures are on the rise leading to a constant increase in cosmetic medical practices, the need for the aesthetics industry to work more collaboratively with cosmetic medical and other healthcare practitioners has now become not only a reality, but very much a necessity. However, to achieve the respect and recognition of any professional, their qualification and knowledge must first be acknowledged and this often requires that the two parties learn to speak a similar language. In the case of aesthetics, the language needs to become more scientific. The Australasian College of Health and Wellness has recently launched a new tertiary-level qualification the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics). The program aims to underpin the credibility of modern aesthetic practices with a new standard of skills and advanced knowledge through a higher education tertiary qualification. The Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) aims to empower practitioners with the recognition of formal qualifications as the new breed of clinical aesthetic practitioner becomes a reality. 㤵 㜵
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We recently caught up with Associate Professor Sinan Ali at the Australasian College of Health and Wellness in Sydney who is the Head of Faculty of the Clinical Aesthetics Degree program and responsible for the curriculum and delivery of the degree program. We spoke with him about the program, what it offers the industry and the value and benefit of this program. Dr Sinan Ali holds strong academic credentials having graduated from Macquarie University where he majored in Stress Physiology and was a full-time academic for 22 years, and part-time for six years. He is
personable, experienced and highly skilled in assisting students to adapt to the demands of education in a higher learning environment and pursue their studies to successful graduation. The Australasian College of Health and Wellness is delighted that he has joined the academic faculty for this degree program.
APJ Q1. What is your current position with the Australasian College of Health and Wellness and what are your goals and objectives in promoting the new Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)? Dr Sinan Ali: Currently I am Head
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of Faculty and responsible for facilitating the launch of the Clinical Aesthetics degree program as well as ensuring that the program is running effectively. My previous experience as an academic in stress physiologist at one of Sydney’s major universities will ensure that our students get the best experience in their training and at the highest academic standards. My aim is to ensure that this occurs and I am highly committed to this task and believe that we are offering an amazing program that is differentiated from other degrees currently available in two key areas: ! Complete flexibility – suitable for full time study, part-time study, local or distant learning we can cater for all student needs ! Very high academic rigour – that is also well supported with highly comprehensive practical units as part of the training requirements Furthermore, to ensure full support to students in scientific bridging and academic skilling we are currently offering for free two Tertiary Preparation Courses currently:
ADS101 Special Topics in Science – a course designed for students wanting to improve their knowledge of the basic sciences in a healthcare context, and an emphasis on the current topics in Clinical Aesthetics, Dermal Therapies and Anti-Ageing.
PDS 101 Academic Skilling – this unit prepares student for the rigour of higher education by developing skills in clinical thinking, research, study skills, essay writing and exam preparation. These Tertiary Preparation Courses have allowed us to “test the waters” on how we should be delivering the degree at the appropriate level of student knowledge and comprehension. This has been a twoway dialogue allowing us to design and fine-tune the delivery of the program so that it is the most effective. I believe that part of the art and science of teaching is about flexibility of delivery that ensures maximum student comprehensive and participation and I am confident that we are meeting the objectives that will support student success in undertaking this program.
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you believe is unique to this qualification? Dr Sinan Ali: When we researched what was currently available we identified certain areas that could be improved upon. We believe this program is different from anything that is out there in that it has a heavy emphasis on the functionality of the body. Yes, it has strong emphasis on the skin and pathophysiology, but it does not stop there. We differ in that we do not look at the skin in isolation to the rest of the body. By gaining a thorough understanding of the body we believe we are offering the graduate better tools to be able to address skin concerns at a deeper level.
This degree will offer graduates two added advantages to other programs: a. It will allow them to speak the language of science with primary healthcare providers. rd b. In the final 3 year students will be able to move beyond just the hands-on dermal sciences and into more advanced topics of antiageing and pre and post-operative paramedical areas at a more comprehensive level than previously available. In examining the current advances and new industry developments we recognised that many technologies are spilling over from the medical to the aesthetic realm. Furthermore, with the boom in injectibles and fillers consumers are becoming comfortable to explore other options that can give them a favourable outcome, while being less invasive. Surveys and research tell us that this market sector is constantly on the rise. However, consumers are now astute and well informed of their options. The industry is finding that one of the reasons they are losing clients is because what they are currently offering is progressively inadequate and no longer meets with what clients are now looking for. Expectations will continue to rise and consumers will demand the assurance of measureable outcomes, so treatment “recommendations” will no longer suffice to gain and retain clients. In attempting to meet the constantly rising demand for higher level results the aesthetics industry now needs to embrace more advanced in-depth knowledge that will empower them to face the future with greater confidence. New graduates entering the aesthetics industry will need to understand subjects such as biology and pharmacology, understand the action of pharmacological agents such as antiinflammatories and their effects on dermal practices. In addition advanced subjects in anatomy and pathophysiology and mechanisms of wound healing in different environments are presented at advanced levels. Understanding stress and the whole cascade of various hormones and their effect on immunity and wound healing can add a new dimension to achieving the outcomes that consumers are now seeking. By understanding the broader and more specific internal issues graduates will have the tools to also address underlying concerns such as stress and adrenal fatigue and determine ways to help support the body for better outcomes.
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As the need to work more closely with doctors and cosmetic surgeons will continue to grow, being able to speak in the appropriate language is paramount. The industry needs to enter that environment in a scientific way in order to ensure physicians that their patients will be taken care of by qualified and trusted professionals whose qualifications allow them to understand and support the medical procedures they have just undertaken.
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APJ Q3. Who is a good candidate for the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)? Dr Sinan Ali: Anyone with a Diploma of Beauty Therapy can apply
to articulate to the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) as well as dermal therapists who wish to gain a deeper
understanding of advanced techniques. High school leavers who wish to undertake a Degree program can also apply, as can nurses who will be given some credits for recognition of prior learning.
This degree will give you deeper knowledge and understanding of what your treatments will do what is actually happening within the skin and help you predict the consequences and outcomes of your treatments before you do them. With new technology you may have learned the way to achieve your treatment through the correct use of a device and which buttons to push to achieve your objectives. However, this degree will teach you how cells and tissue respond on a molecular level. You will be able to have a clear picture in your mind of exactly what will happen to the skin you are treating before you deliver the treatment.
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While currently you may feel confident in identifying what is working and what is not, unless you have the appropriate scientific knowledge and training, your premise will most likely be intuitive rather than evidence based and this will most definitely have its limitations. The Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) will give you the answers you are looking for. This qualification will empower you to be the new bread of expert. You will become an industry leader in your field.
APJ Q4. From an academic perspective how do you believe this qualification will open up career paths for graduates and how will it allow them to work more confidently with healthcare professionals? Can you give us some examples please? Dr Sinan Ali: The power of this knowledge will help to position you as the confident professional that will have the foresight on exactly what you can achieve for your client and the level of improvement that you can take your client's skin to. There will be no guesswork, or “let's try this and see what happens”.
In brief with this qualification you can expect to benefit in the following way: a. With a higher level of scientific knowledge you will be able to accurately determine favourable treatment outcomes and less likely to make errors. b. Liaise with greater confidence with medical and healthcare practitioners through improved language and terminology skills that will facilitate your ability to enter into collaborative working relationships of mutual benefit and for better client/patient outcomes. c. You will gain the skills to independently conduct your own research and seek evidence of practice when choosing products or technologies. This qualification will allow you to think differently, teaching you the skills of critical thinking so that you can critically analyse and make choices based on a more scientific premise and come to your own conclusions. d. You will become the new breed of aesthetic therapists more capable, more confident and more successful in what you can achieve.
If you are interested in gain further information on how you can benefit from the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) and your suitability please feel free to contact Head of Faculty Associate Professor Sinan Ali on 02 8587 8888. Email: sinan.ali@tac.edu.au at the Australasian College of Health and Wellness.
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Petty Cash box is always locked, with the key only accessible through the person in charge. A few simple rules will ensure peace of mind.
Superannuation entitlements Can you please clarify what are the current superannuation entitlements and the exemptions?
Petty Cash theft – who-done-it! As our salon started with just one person – me, I have had an open drawer policy during the day with a small pad for recording takings. While the keys are in the box, the box is only locked each night. However, over the past two years I now employ three other people and I am finding that balancing our Petty Cash takings is becoming more and more difficult. It would seem that someone is dipping into the cash. How can I stop this? Perhaps it's time you established more systematic policies as what you currently have is a very sloppy system that is open to abuse and theft. Furthermore, if someone can get away with stealing from your petty cash and not being able to be traced, they may choose not to stop just there, but look at other ways to benefit from the lack of accountability. This is very dangerous and must be rectified immediately by establishing proper procedures.
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Make one person in charge of the Petty Cash and announce this to all the staff members. It will be their job to count the petty cash at the beginning of the day and make sure that any monies taken are correctly recorded. At the end of the day it will be their job to make sure that the Petty Cash balances out. A standard rule should be that no monies are to be taken without a receipt that clearly states what the money was used for. Also establish a policy that specifies what items can be paid through petty cash and which ones cannot. Keep the Petty Cash amount to a specific small amount that is easy to track e.g. no more than $50, and make sure that the
Under SGR 2009/2, superannuation is payable on ordinarytime earnings. Therefore, for each payment you will need to determine whether it is ordinary-time earnings or not. Generally, ordinary-time earnings relate to the normal hours that an employee works. Let's take an on-call allowance as an example. If the on-call allowance relates to an employee’s ordinary hours, then superannuation will be payable. However, if the on-call allowance is paid in respect to overtime hours, then superannuation is not payable. The same concept applies to bonuses. Unless the payment relates specifically to overtime, or there are certain identifiable restrictions such as signup bonuses, superannuation is required to be paid. Other examples of where superannuation is payable are piece rates, casual shift loading, workers' compensation payments where the employee has returned to work, annual leave, sick leave and long service leave, any in lieu of notice payments in a termination calculation, performance bonus and Christmas bonus. Examples of where superannuation is not required to be paid include casual overtime, workers' compensation payments when the employee is not working, parental leave,, jury leave, unused annual, sick or long service leave on termination, or any bonus in relation to overtime.
If you are a financial member of APAN please remember to access an expert for any business advice. This service is available for free to you. If you are not a financial member a consultation fee will apply. Ph: 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com
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Reaching a new level of
PROFESSIONAL EXCELLENCE
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Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)
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Studying for a degree is now more attainable than you think
Take it to the next level New! Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) The Degree boasts a rigorous academic program built around health science supported by extensive clinical practice skills. It aims to deliver the latest in skills and knowledge to equip graduates for the exciting and rapidly changing aesthetics industry.
ENROL NOW! Limited places available for Semester 1 The Australasian College of Health and Wellness is also offering a FREE on-line tertiary preparation course (bridging) to enhance your skills for undertaking further study at a higher education level. Our preparation units include:
! ADS101 Special Topics in Science – a course designed for students wanting to improve their knowledge of the basic 㤵 㜵
sciences in a healthcare context, with an emphasis on the current topics in Clinical Aesthetics, Dermal Therapies and Anti-ageing.
! PDS101 Academic Skilling – prepares students for the rigour of higher education by developing skills in critical thinking, research, study skills, essay writing and exam preparation.
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Each subject will be delivered by webinar over four weeks and supported by up to eight hours of self-directed learning. ㈵
To register for this FREE on-line course contact info@tac.edu.au or call 1800 999 963
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For further information about the degree please contact Head of Faculty Associate Professor Sinan Ali on 02 8587 8888. Sinan.ali@tac.edu.au | www.tac.edu.au/highereducation
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Is your business ready for NEW GROWTH AND PROSPERITY? Since its launch as an industry professional body in June 2009, APAN has attempted to provide real value to its members. We looked at the current professional landscape and its needs and examined services offered by other associations and professional bodies. We were not interested in duplicating what was already there, and while some standard services may be similar, we examined the current needs in greater detail to identify how we could make a difference in giving support where it is was most needed.
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The global economic downturn was taking its toll on many businesses. Meanwhile, rising fierce competition led to innovative technologies introducing an array of new equipment that were flooding the market on an ongoing basis. Smarter, faster, more efficient and sophisticated equipment is capable of overcoming past limitations, promising to achieve specific and measurable skin and body improvements in treatment outcomes. However, promoting these services now needed a new marketing approach as they required appropriate packages to achieve cumulative results. The one-off treatment was no longer appropriate. The common approach was discounting services to secure packages, but this was fast leading many salons and clinics into financial trouble. On the business front the social media revolution was taking centre stage at a galloping pace, redefining business and personal communication capabilities. Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, not to mention the revolution of the mobile devices that were bringing information away from computers and direct to the transient
consumer who could now access any information they wished while on the go.
IN SEARCH OF A BETTER WAY While membership continued to grow, we were still restless seeking new and better ways to offer more tangible benefits and value to our members who often were time poor, but still needed help and support. From our research the biggest area that salons struggled with was gaining new clients as well as keeping their existing ones from being lured away through the vast information that was now available to them through the various social media platforms. While finding appropriate staff and industrial relations issues was, and still is, a major concern, the most pressing issue we found was the need for salons to grow their client base. The major deficiency we found was in mastering social media and using it efficiently to their business's advantage. The big trend over the past 2-3 years has been Facebook, but that is all now changing with the onset of mobile devices, which are taking over from desktop communications. Meanwhile, the uptake in technology is becoming increasingly confusing as many new options are now available, with some more successful than others, with businesses finding the need for advice.
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And so in February this year APAN met with various businesses to explore the best way to develop a new level of APAN Membership that
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would also include leading tools that would allow businesses to substantially increase their communication capabilities with consumers and improve their business performance more rapidly.
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However, choosing the right tools and the right experts was not an easy decision. We found that many companies offering sophisticated devices were too technology focused, but without sufficient understanding of the consumer. Furthermore, while they were offering us various forms of technology they were not offering any measuring capabilities to determine how effective these tools were performing an issue that we regard as important to us and our members. Some were also overpriced without necessarily being better.
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In carefully researching options available to us and putting them up against the specific needs of our members, we came to identify the following criteria:
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We needed technologies that were simple to understand and operate We needed them to be very cost-effective They had to be proven in their capability to effectively reach consumers in the target market They had to offer updated, monthly reports on results to the businesses on what was working and what was not They had to offer ongoing support
FINDING THE RIGHT SOLUTIONS While the search for the right company was not easy, we believe we finally found the right experts. Tim Green and Ian MacManus are both highly qualified and experienced business professionals. They combine amazing technology and leadership skills, understand and can effectively analyse consumer (human behaviour) and have an incredible track record of successfully growing numerous businesses of up to 600% growth.
A NEW MEMBERSHIP CLASSIFICATION NEW TOOLS In collaboration with these experts and their company, from June 2014 APAN is launching a new membership classification APAN CORPORATE PLUS Membership. What will the APAN CORPORATE PLUS Membership offer businesses in the following service package?
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Response 4 Site Content Update per year Search Engine Performance Optimisation (SEO) Monthly Activity Volume Monitoring Report with statistics and performance graphs (this will allow you to ascertain specifically what is working or not working for you) 2 Social Media and 2 Internet Directory Links Level 2 Support Call Response Centre Licence for 3 computers for 1 year subscription of AVG Internet Security, the top rated Internet Protection software – Ultimate Protection for everything you do online. Now includes new privacy features to protect your private data Plus you can add the Mobile App Option for Iphone and Android for an additional fee
TECHNICAL
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3-Page, 4-Button website, Fully Optimised for Mobile Device
BUSINESS SERVICES
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2 x half hour, or 1 hour Business Coaching Vouchers valued at $300 Business and professional advice – phone and speak to an expert up to 10 minutes (unlimited)
LEGAL ADVICE
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½ hour free legal advice Individual wages advice for staff e.g. pay rates - on-going Business and contractual advice (free for simple solutions)*
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STANDARDS AND SERVICE DOCUMENTS ㈵
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Code of Ethics Quarterly APJ Journal Membership card to redeem your services and discounts Strategic Partners discounted rates for such services as insurance,
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If you would like to benefit from this amazing package please phone us today or email us with your full name and phone number so that we can reach you with further information. Phone 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com
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merchant banking (over 11 companies) Fee services etc. Resource Document list for purchase over 45 different business documents and templates for purchasing at discounted rates Updated Privacy Policy and Privacy Policy Display Certificate (FREE this document is valued at $150).
INTERVIEW WITH TIM GREEN As one of the technical masterminds of the APAN Corporate Plus membership we asked Tim Green some questions about current trends and which are the best options that offer practical solutions for the modern salon or clinic.
SHOPPING DISCOUNT CARD
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Members Plus discount card for your Coles and Woolworths weekly shopping as well as hundreds of other companies. This Membership alone can save you thousands of dollars.
*Solicitor's fee may apply depending of the complexity of the service or specific documents that may need to be written for you. These however, will be at a member's discounted rates by our solicitors.
MEMBERSHIP FEE The APAN CORPORATE PLUS membership will offer businesses amazing tools to gain new clients better reach and service existing clients, and more easily grow their business. This comprehensive membership package can suit any business size, but specifically it will suit the serious business that wishes to achieve growth in the client base and increased financial rewards.
APJ Q1: In an age of high tech communication tools, from your experience why are many of them achieving disappoimting results and what is the missing link? TIM: The main issue here is a communication breakdown between technical development people and businesses. Technical people are trained to solve technical problems, not to think about business outcomes. For a technology solution to fully satisfy a business requirement, the technology designers need to fully understand and address the business requirements. This doesn't happen very often, particularly where the development company does not have the skills to address marketing and business. This is, I think, what you refer to as the “missing link”. On one hand we have a myriad of business issues to satisfy, on the other, a community of technical professionals trying to satisfy business requirements. Business owners do not understand technical people and technical people have no training or experience in business. What is missing? Principally, I believe is the ability of these two communities to effectively communicate. The “missing link” is translating a commercial requirement into a technical specification.
APJ Q2: When you speak of sociological or client behaviour perspective what do you mean by that and how have you come to these conclusions? TIM: Marketing is sociological. It is the science of
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understanding human behaviour, predicting responses and satisfying needs of a community (a market). This is why it is crucial to define the typical behaviour of a market. One of the earliest examples of market segmentation occurred in the US in the 1950s. Market researchers at the time realised that the post
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Most business owners I engage with would give anything to know how to promote their business in a cost effective way which allows them to clearly identify how well that investment is working for them. I hear horror stories every day about proprietors spending large sums of money on promotional activities, which had no benefit, or worse still, being knowingly swindled by promoters of marketing programs that could never deliver the outcomes required.
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APJ Q4: What do you believe is the most valuable modern tool that can assist salons and clinics to achieve growth and how cost effective is this option? TIM: This is a tough question because I believe that the “most
valuable” tool is evolving very rapidly and what it is depends very heavily upon the industry sector concerned. war teenage generation behaved differently to any previous generation. Furthermore, these “teenagers” (as they were labelled) were financially indulged to such an extent that they had come to represent a significant market force. Marketing companies employed sociologists to define the typical behaviour, influences and responses of this new and attractive market sector. This led to the development of marketing campaigns which were specifically focused on influencing the “teenage” market segment. These marketing campaigns into the teenage sector were highly successful and are still employed today. Even though the behaviour of the segment has changed and the messages are radically different, it is still a lucrative sector. The concept of market segmentation was therefore established. As the original “teenagers” matured into university-educated, successful, high disposable income professionals, the concept of a “YUPIE” (Young Urban Professional) emerged. YUPIE was originally another marketing term which defined a highly desirable, high disposable income market segment. Once again, it was defined in terms of its values, behaviour and responses to marketing messages. Targeted studies were also increasingly undertaken to predict how the segment would respond to a variety of marketing messages.
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However, the research we have conducted in recent months has been very revealing for a number of service providers. The results surprised even us as advocates of mobile on-line optimisation. While we knew that mobile devices (smartphones and tablets) were starting to have a significant impact in some sectors, the results we have seen from live customer analysis earlier this year indicate that the desktop is just about dead (< 2% of all enquiries in some cases). Businesses can no longer afford to ignore the power of the mobile web. I have read article after article from academics and marketing practitioners on this topic, all of which are quite compelling. Most compelling, though, is when you see the statistics of your own customers, indicating that the vast majority of visitors to their sites are now mobile and no longer desktop or laptop. This is what we refer to an empirical data it's real, no longer just a theory. The good news is that building and maintaining an effective mobile optimised on-line presence is simple and highly cost effective. When a potential customer searches for a service provider of any kind using a mobile device, they do not want to be educated, they just want a snapshot of your business, where you are, your hours of business and an easy way of contacting you or making a booking. An optimised mobile website is a simple, cost-effective tool for harvesting the growing opportunity represented by mobile-device utilisation and is all that is required to access this opportunity.
The practice continues today. Successful businesses understand who their customers are, how they are most likely to behave, how to satisfy their needs and how those needs are likely to evolve. The moment a business loses its ability to relate to and satisfy its customers, it will suffer grave consequences. This is why even small business owners should devote at least a part of their energy to not just understanding their customers' needs, but what trends are emerging and who the opinion leaders (influencers) of their customers are.
APJ Q5: Does one need a Lot of education to learn to master the APAN Marketing and Promotional Plan? TIM: No! Thank goodness! At last! It is as simple for any business
APJ Q3: As a marketing and on-line expert what do you think is the number one issue that most businesses crave for and need to grow? TIM: Assuming that a business is properly managed financially, the
owner to deploy as it is for the client to utilise. A truly ergonomic system will yield best results for both client and service provider. We seem to almost have arrived at a point where we are able to offer solutions based upon sophisticated technology which do not demand more than the ability to use a handset for either party to take full advantage of.
typical need I see is either “more business” or “more profitable” business (customers will pay more if they believe that there is a commensurate increase in value). Most businesses want to maintain or expand their earning capacity through growth in revenue or profitability.
Furthermore, the smartphone systems we have implemented in the past few months have been the most cost-effective, reliable and transparent ICT-based marketing solution that I have ever seen.
In the vast majority of cases, businesses need first to retain the clients they already have while attracting a steady stream of new clients to their business. Even to sustain a steady income, businesses will have to attract some new clients because, no matter how well you satisfy existing clients, you will always lose a few. People move, retire and change their purchasing patterns from time-to-time, so no matter how good your service is, you will always lose a few.
APJ Q6: How important is monitoring results and outcomes to measure the success of a tool or a campaign, and how do you provide this service to members? TIM: This is a critical aspect of any business investment. A successful business owner will always know how much he or she is spending and what the benefit of that expenditure is. The accountant in me cries out whenever I see businesses wasting money on blogs and other
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promotional activities which simply have no financial benefit. When it comes to promotional activities, particularly on-line promotions, I am continually astonished by the amount of money spent by businesses on websites and blogs who have no idea how much benefit there is from the investment and with no expectation of ever knowing what the benefit might be. “What gets measured, gets managed”, is one of Peter Drucker's* most famous quotes. What Drucker was saying is, if you can't measure something, then you can't manage it. Why spend money on something you can't manage? There is another saying in the marketing community, “only half of all advertising works. If we could only figure out which half, we would all be millionaires”. However, this is all changing. We have now developed the means to measure the effectiveness of on-line marketing investments to the last call and reservation made. We provide our members with a marketing Ferrari to drive, and for the first time, we even drive it for you with our eyes wide open. We can make the adjustments necessary to keep your business acquisition in the fast lane. No more guesswork. We don't guarantee immediate results, but we have developed a program to harness these new technologies with our members over a period of time. We have the tools at our disposal to measure and respond to outcomes. As a result, we can guarantee to substantially improve outcomes within three to four months of implementing the program on behalf of our members. *Peter Drucker is one of the leading and most internationally recognised, and awarded business consultants of the 20th century.
APJ Q7: From your experience, what other industries have benefited from including these products and services to their operations and what results have they achieved? Can you give us some examples? TIM: We have compiled a portfolio of compelling results from our members in the hospitality and restaurant industries. In many respects the requirements of the hospitality sector are very similar to those in the beauty and personal grooming sector. Service enquiries in these sectors are now overwhelmingly mobile device sourced and we have seen outcomes for our customers as high as 800+ additional calls and reservations in the first month of operation. These are actual outcomes at live sites which have yielded substantial improvements in customer numbers. While we do not discuss specific members' businesses without their express consent, we have compiled an impressive list of member testimonials and actual performance statistics that have been reproduced directly from the reports we provide to them each month. We, of course, can also facilitate direct contact by a nominated members' representative to one or a number of our existing members. We have an obligation to existing members not to divulge their contact details for the purposes of promoting our services. 㤵 㜵
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APJ Q8: What can a potential member hope to achieve by undertaking the APAN Corporate Plus Membership Package? TIM: As part of this package we are offering a specially designed website for the member. These are specially designed for mobile devices, vastly superior to simply “responsive” websites, which are no more than a miniaturised, typically unreadable version of a site designed to be displayed on a 22”+ desktop screen. Smartphone Optimised websites are specifically designed for the smaller mobile devices and offer the format and functionality required to encourage
customers to access product offerings on-line.
Within the third or fourth month of participating in this program, members can expect to see at least a 15-20% increase in call and reservation rates. In most cases, we have achieved substantially better outcomes, but we prefer to be conservative in our predictions. Furthermore, although our services have resulted in substantial improvements in areas with high mobile utilisation, some regions have not evolved as quickly as others and may take a little longer for businesses to realise the inevitable benefits of mobile optimisation.
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There is one thing I can say categorically, all service providers, wherever they are located, will have to be mobile optimised within the next 12 months or risk losing business to competitors in their area who are already mobile optimised. The consumer trend towards mobile devices for accessing services is here to stay and all regions will be affected within the next 12-18 months. This is not a question of “if” mobile optimisation will be required, it is only a question of “when”.
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APJ Q9: Tim, you are renowned for your achievements, can you give us highlights of some of the most noteworthy ones that are relevant to what you are currently developing?
TIM: I have worked in the ICT industry pretty well all my life. I have witnessed massive changes and developments since I first became fascinated by technology while working for NASA at the tracking station near Canberra in the 70s. I could see that our lives would be increasingly impacted by digital technology and I enrolled myself in a Computer Sciences course at what is now Canberra University in 1977. I have never believed that my achievements were technical in nature. I have always been passionate about making technology work for people. As you can imagine, in those early years, techos used so much jargon and their discussions were punctuated with so many new acronyms that most people were reluctant to talk to them because they were intimidated by the technology and the way it was presented, which brings me back to my answer to the first question you posed. That is the disconnection between what users of technology need and what the custodians of technology often provide. Even after 35 years, we still have a long way to go before that issue is entirely resolved. Throughout my career, I have strived to understate technological complexity and eliminating jargon and the overuse of acronyms by my colleagues. Technology should exist for one purpose and one purpose only, to serve society. Through the breathtaking advances in digital technology, we have developed the capability to save lives, give blind people sight, give deaf people hearing and generally improve the quality of life for billions around the world. I hope that my influence on my colleagues to apply the skills of our profession to humanise technology has had at least some influence in the demystification of these developments for the benefit of all mankind. I like to think that my greatest achievement then is having played a small part in the technology revolution we have all been swept up in for the past 35 years and that my profession has improved the quality and extent of people's lives everywhere.
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For further information on the NEW APAN CORPORATE PLUS Membership phone 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com
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Australian Skin Clinics opens the door to great CAREER OPPORTUNITIES as well as a WINNING FRANCHISE BUSINESS MODEL When times are tough there is nothing more uplifting than a success story. In just over two years Australian Skin Clinics have achieved phenomenal growth as a successful franchise concept clinic and the future has never seemed brighter. So much so, they are desperate for qualified staff that has led to the recently launched Australian Skin Clinics Academy.
staff doctors, nurses, laser technicians and skin therapists. At that stage the Master Franchise plan was being developed and I was able to get involved in streamlining the service menu and contributing to the development of the franchise model that included surgical and non-surgical services. Deb Farnworth-Wood, the director of Australian Skin Clinics, is very much a visionary with plans for growth and expansion of the franchise model,and I was very excited about being part of this journey and contributing to its success.
In an interview with Darlene O'Gara, Training and Staff Development Manager for Australian Skin Clinics, we uncover some of the secrets to their success and the amazing journey of this company that has led to its inspirational success story.
APJ Q3: Tell us of the latest exciting development with ASC and your appointment as the National Trainer – what will this involve? Darlene: Our company has experienced
APJ Q1: Darlene, give us some information about your background in the aesthetics industry and why you chose to get involved with cosmetic medicine? Darlene: In 1990 I graduated with an international qualification in Beauty Therapy and also obtained my IHBC and NEBS management qualifications in the UK. I then joined the Steiner Liner and the QE2 where I worked for 18 months as a beauty therapist until 1992 when I moved to Australia and was employed as a therapist in a salon at Marina Mirage on the Gold Coast. As I loved training I managed to secure a position with Guinot skincare as a State Manager and Trainer, a position that I held for 12 years. Then in 2008 I was hired as a Spa Manager at The Glades on the Gold Coast. By then I had reached my peak in my current knowledge and could see a great future in cosmetic medicine so my interest led me to turn to this, where I focused on training and gaining new skills. It was at the end of 2008 that I was hired as Customer Service Manager at Australian Skin Clinics and eventually became the Practice Manager. As you are aware Australian Skin Clinics is a Cosmetic Medical Franchise and so the standards are very high with strict operating protocols, so it is a fabulous and very inspirational environment to work in. 㤵 㜵
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APJ Q2: What attracted you specifically to Australian Skin Clinics (ASC)? Darlene: My great passion is about achieving real results and I was immediately attracted to ASC because of their professional reputation and also because they were specialising in the areas I wanted to move to, and ASC could give me the opportunity to expand my knowledge into the high-end services of laser, advanced skin treatment and also learn more about injectibles.
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exceptional growth from one clinic to 11 in just two and a half years and there are several more in the process of being finalised, so it has been a fantastic journey. I am involved in recruiting new staff and training them to the exact policies and procedures. We coordinate extensive training programs for franchisees, clinic managers, technicians and cosmetic injectors to ensure they are competent with our procedures, protocols and systems, in theory and practical training sessions. We offer ongoing training to existing staff to continue their development and upskill their techniques. The most exciting aspect of my work is to see people upskilling to improve their professional position and to gain professional and career satisfaction – that is so rewarding. The latest exciting venture is the opening of our new Australian Skin Clinics Academy that will offer recognised training in dermal therapies, laser, laser safety and cosmetic injectibles. We have such a need for qualified and competent staff as numerous career positions are opening up as the franchise continues to grow. As we could not keep up with the demand we decided to establish our own Academy to ensure uniform standards of training to the level that we require and is expected of our clinicians.
APJ Q4: How many and what job opportunities are opening up with ASC clinics and in what States? Darlene: We need laser therapists, dermal therapists, cosmetic injectors, clinical managers and franchisees. In terms of numbers we will have approximately 100 positions to fill in the next eight to 12 months. We are looking for qualified people who are passionate about their profession and wish to fine-tune their skills to our standards. Positions will be available in NSW, Victoria and Queensland and we believe that in the near future we will have positions available in WA.
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The working environment I entered was engaging highly qualified
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Darlene: We are based on a medical model with proven treatment outcomes that are consistent across the brand. Our detailed protocols are tried, tested and fully documented to deliver fantastic results for all our clients.
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We offer extensive training programs and offer ongoing training and development to our dedicated staff.
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We also attribute our success to the fact that our clinics have a friendly and fun, yet highly professional environment for our staff to work in and clients to experience great advice and service. We find this model works best as clients and patients prefer this to an austere medical environment that they would associate with illness rather than enhancing their appearance.
APJ Q5: Who is a good candidate for this training and what career path will there be open to them? Darlene: The candidates we are looking for to train for our franchisees must be passionate and career focused. They need to be committed to exceptional service and achieving real results. We are seeking qualified professionals who wish to up-skill and progress in their career. They need to love systems and an environment of progressive learning. As our company grows we will have so many avenues for career advancements.
APJ Q6: In just the past few years with your involvement with ASC what are the emerging new consumer trends that you have observed? Darlene: Today's women and men are very time poor. They are looking for fast, effective treatments with real results. They don't have the time to be in a spa relaxing all afternoon. The key services they are seeking are laser hair reduction, concerns with pigmentation and effective muscle relaxants to minimise the appearance of wrinkles.
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As these procedures are becoming more affordable they are now accessible to the average person, not just the corporate client. Cosmetic procedures are no longer considered a luxury service. Hair removal via laser is now more affordable than waxing. We are also currently seeing a broader spectrum of client/patients who are progressively becoming younger and are concerned also with prevention. However, injectables are not done on teenagers they must be in their late 20s plus.
APJ Q7: To what do you attribute ASC's great success and what is unique about this franchise model?
Staff also love the attention to detail in their training protocols and procedures that gives them higher confidence and a sense of security as they fully understand the treatment perimeters. This makes for a more comfortable and happy work environment that allows them to grow and gain experience.
APJ Q8: On a personal level what do you like the most about your work? Darlene: I love the amazing people I meet through my position with ASC, both staff and team as well as our great clients. It is so rewarding to see staff reaching their personal goals in their career, while ensuring happy clients who are thrilled with their results. I am a person who gets bored easily so I love the variety in my day-today activities. I so love the fast-paced ever-changing environment at ASC. I also love watching each new team member who joins us grow in their roles and contributing to a cohesive team dynamic as we work together to grow on a personal and professional level while also supporting the growth of the business. We have many more clinics in the planning and I am so excited with this amazing journey. 㤵 㜵
If you are interested in the business or career prospects available at Australian Skin Clinics please contact us on 1300 303 014
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newtechnology
The Changing Consumer Behaviour in the Mobile Age By Tim Green The best way to reach new clients and to keep your existing ones is to understand them. However, consumer behaviour is not a static thing. Each year, new technologies are influencing how consumers gain their information and what influences their decision-making. Tim Green is an expert in both mobile website technology and human behaviour. In this article he shares with us some valuable information on the evolution of communication tools and where they have taken us today. Sooner or later, we all look for something, the urge to seek and discover is primeval. A hundred and thirty-five years ago, a single piece of cardboard was printed listing 50 businesses in New Haven, Connecticut who had a telephone. The first telephone directory was born. It is noteworthy that the first telephone directory was not a private number listing, but a list of business numbers only. Presumably, the members of New Haven's commercial community who had made an investment in Alexander Graham Bell's ingenious invention needed to ensure that potential customers had an easy way of finding them in order to maximise the returns on their investment. Sixty years later in 1938, the concept of the telephone directory had become so universal that a specialised font was created for them (Bell Gothic). Bell Gothic was created in order to be legible in the very small font size required by then to accommodate the huge number of subscribers to telephone networks. Telephone directories were burgeoning in size and a special approach was needed to ensure that they were manageable and able to be lifted by the average person. I only share this little piece of history to remind readers of the fact that, today, less than 140 years after their birth, we are living at the end of the telephone-directory era. No longer will this bulky resource and labour-intensive icon be an essential publication for those seeking
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easy access to goods and services. I do wonder though, what packing material we will use in future when we move house.
REPLACING THE PHONE DIRECTORY Fast forward to 1999 and the Japanese company NTT Docomo released the first smartphone ever to achieve substantial market penetration in any country. It may have been in its infancy and would take another eight years to reach maturity, but the smartphone age had arrived. As is often the case with a new technology, very few of us could predict the impact of this latest development. In 1850, the British Prime Minister of the day, William Gladstone, felt compelled to ask Michael Faraday what good could possibly come of this discovery of his called “electricity”; to which Faraday answered: “One day, sir, you may tax it.” It did not take long though for technology companies such as Blackberry, HTC and Motorola to introduce ever more feature-packed “smart” devices to their customers. The issue during this period was through ergonomics and usability rather than technology. How could you make something so compact with so many functions usable for the majority of the population? The challenge of integrating so many functional components into a single, conveniently sized personal device was finally answered in 2007, with the release of Steve Jobs' superlative brainchild, the Apple iPhone. The original iPhone was a watershed in the evolution of smartphone design. Since its introduction, Apple's masterpiece of ergonomics has been the benchmark upon which all subsequent products have been based. It took Apple more than seven years from the release of the original smartphone in 1999 to develop a platform, which would promote universal adoption of the technology. Apple's design team knew what the issue was and focused on resolving it; the user interface
(ergonomics) had to be easy, “the touch of a button”. Early adopters of smartphones could be identified by their stylus-wielding antics and their attempts to effectively manipulate miniature QWERTY keyboards with varying degrees of success. The first iPhone not only defined what was possible, it defined what was reasonable and usable without compromising functionality. It was not so much a technological triumph as it was a triumph of design, transforming a complex technological device into something that everybody could use. The subsequent plethora of smartphone products that have flooded the market, and changed our behaviour since 2007, all owe their fundamental design principles to the original iPhone.
A TOOL FOR ALL TASKS Which brings us to the subject of this article. My smartphone is now a completely usable and compact device that I take everywhere with me, as do most of us. It has the power to surf the net, to display my geographic location anywhere on the planet, check stock prices, give me a weather forecast, tell the time, manage my calendar and even make the occasional phone call. Furthermore, it is potentially the most powerful vehicle ever created for businesses to promote themselves to customers, because the device goes everywhere with its owner.
THE POWER OF MOBILE DEVICES Smart mobile devices have now completely infiltrated our lives. We have become increasingly reliant on their ability to support most of the activities we undertake every day. Functions such as diary, weather, email and messaging in the palm of our hands have had a major impact on our behaviour. Many of us no longer even get out of bed in the morning until we have accessed at least some of these facilities. Little wonder then, when it comes to purchasing goods and services, we are increasingly reaching for this perpetual and universal companion; our smartphone.
EVIDENCE OF CHANGING TRENDS Even with this knowledge, I am astonished at how much our relationship with smart mobile devices has changed consumer
behaviour. A customer of mine, a restaurant in Melbourne, is indicative of the veritable stampede to computing. We implemented their mobile site in November 2013. As with all of our customers, we kept comprehensive records of how well their site was working for them. In the first month, we recorded 274 visitors to their website, just over 10% of which originated from a desktop browser. In other words, nearly 90% originated from mobile devices. By January 2014, the number of visitors had declined to less than 2% or a total of 8 desktop enquiries out of a total of 536 visitors. This customer is only one example, but we are seeing a similar trend with all of our customers. Towards the end of 2013 we promoted the fact that the numbers of service enquiries originating from mobile devices had almost doubled in 2013 from less than 40% to around 75% of the total. Current data, less than six months later, indicates that desktop enquiries for some service categories is almost dead (or less than 2% of the all enquiries for restaurants!). To all intents and purposes then, mobile optimisation is no longer an option for most businesses. It has become a business essential. Simple website responsiveness is no longer enough, customers now expect the sites they visit to be OPTIMISED for mobile or they will go to a site that is. History is littered with failed governments, businesses and individuals who have ignored what was happening around them and the trends in their environment. Embracing mobile optimisation is the most significant element of any successful promotional strategy for many service providers today. This is not an “emerging trend”, the opportunity is here today. Your market is already waiting! The question is then; “Are you going to ride the wave of mobile emancipation or be swept away by it?”
For further information contact APAN and examine the benefits of their new CORPORATE PLUS MEMBERSHIP. It has been designed to bring you up-to-date with new technology and make client engagement simpler and more efficient. Phone 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com
Tim Green is a web tech solutions expert who assists businesses in optimised mobile websites. He has helped numerous businesses from various industries achieve business growth through better client engagement. In association with his business partner, Ian MacManus, they have developed the APAN CORPORATE PLUS membership package that aims to revolutionise the businesses who choose to undertake this package.
APJ 25
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Does Your Business Need a Make-Over? By Caroline Nelson Let's be honest, the aesthetic industry has undergone major changes in recent times. New high-tech services and amazing products are now available, but what has remained the same for many salons, spas and clinics are the same old, same old business practices. So if our clients want to look younger and fresher it stands to reason that our businesses need to keep pace with not only a modern look, but also the latest, improved, business profit-making concepts. Evolution is inevitable – it's a fact of life. If your business is operating in much the same way as it did when its doors were first opened, then it could have lost its 'stand out and get talked about' factor. It could be stagnating, with both staff and clients becoming bored, which means you will be losing sales and business. One thing is certain – keeping pace with change is important. Some business owners think keeping pace with change only requires buying in new technology or stocking a different brand of skincare. In fact I saw a perfect example recently. This business had been operating for about 18 years, opening long before IPL, laser and cosmecuticals were available. However, the owner finally decided it was time to step up her services and buy the latest IPL technology, an excellent device that offered hair removal, vascular treatment and photo-rejuvenation. So what was the problem and where were all the clients this wonderful technology should have had flocking through the doors?
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The problem was not the technology, it was with the business, or more rightly the business owner. This sad salon reminded me of the term 'faded beauty'. It needed a major overhaul in every sense of the word, and not just a refurbishment, which was also clearly needed. Visually it presented as very tired with bad faded signage, and an uninviting reception predominately decorated with a now dated fake and very dusty flower arrangement. The miniscule retail shelving stocked little to no retail, and what was available was not a range that would, or could, support photo-rejuvenation post-treatment care. It was also a range available on discounted shopping sites. With further investigation it transpired that little or no thought had gone into acquiring the new IPL except the belief on the business owner's part that this would be the answer to her dreams, sales would
grow and profits would flow. The salon was over-committed financially and no money was available to market the new services. The current website was woeful and the Facebook page had not had a post for over six months. And to make matters worse, the business owner had no plan of how she was going to go about promoting their new services, in fact, no plan at all. No business plan, no marketing plan, no real definable goals apart from “I want to be financially successful”. How she expected this to happen I have no idea, but what was certain was without marketing and promotion her new IPL was not going to be able to provide the lifeline this business needed.
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Yes, it's true this is an extreme case and almost to the point of no return. But there are also many aesthetic businesses that while not terminal at this stage and may not need a complete overhaul, still could do with a few adjustments and possibly a revamp. And when I say a revamp I don't just mean the décor but also business practices. Is reading this giving you an aha moment, or are you currently not sure where your business is heading? On the other hand, are you experiencing the challenges of slowing or reduced sales. If this is the case with you then it might be time to rethink your priorities.
Facing change can be quite daunting, but it is a part of life. A business just like everything else has a life cycle, but it can be rejuvenated and new life injected. Once you have committed to change then you need to assess what is currently working well and what isn't. Keep and improve what is working and change, improve or delete what isn't. Build on strengths and strengthen any weaknesses. Talk to people, clients, your supplier partners and industry experts and ask their opinion. Conduct a client survey to see if they are fully happy with things the way they are. Offer choices of improvements you might implement in the future and see what their reaction is. You could be surprised what you learn. I had one of my new clients conduct a survey and she was amazed what she learnt. Apart from new treatments clients asked for, she found that many felt her treatment couches were hard and uncomfortable. She also realised that a large percentage of her clients only came for waxing and nail services, but had their facials elsewhere because they didn't view her treatments as offering sufficient high-results. It was a real eye-opener, and she quickly set about making the necessary changes and improvements, including a mini renovation. I suggested that during the renovation and improvements she keep her clients and fans informed via Facebook. So apart from her normaltype posts she got her clients involved. From 'commenting' on paint colours through to selecting the new treatment couches of choice. And every step of the way she posted photos. She introduced new highperformance treatments and at a very well-attended Re-Launch VIP Night over $14,000 worth of treatment packages and retail was sold. And sales have continued to build and improve. Her team was not only trained in the new services, but together she and
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I implemented new Up-Grading, Package Selling, Retail and Re-Booking protocols so that the business could get the full advantage of the custom the newlook clinic was generating.
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When I first started working with this client I did a full Needs Analysis of the business to see what was working well, what wasn't and what need changes and improvements. And then together we set about creating an Action Plan that would not only accomplish what the business needed to remain relevant in the current marketplace, but also to move it towards achieving short, medium and long-term goals.
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So there you have two different business owners, and two different ways they approached change and improvements. I guess you don't have to be an Einstein to know the one who was successful in the make-over. Yes, it was the one who put the thought, time and effort into it the one who sought expert advice to design a welldeveloped plan and implemented marketing and promotions that generated interest and the 'stand out and get talked about' factor to its full advantage. If your business is suffering slow or challenging times you might consider asking yourself the question “Does my business need a makeover?” Because remember it's not just clients who need rejuvenating and reviving, businesses need them too. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2014
Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40s year experience who specialises in business development for salons and spas. Visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com to see her full selection of Beauty Industry business tools and upcoming Business Development seminars.
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youthfulnesstheory Dr Swift's medical knowledge and surgical skills have established him as an expert in every sort of aesthetic surgical procedure, from breast enhancement, to body sculpting, nose reshaping, facelifts and laser peels. His practice is based on patient referrals, and he emphasises a natural appearance in his cosmetic techniques. A trend-setter in the rapidly developing field of minimally invasive procedures, Dr. Swift's nonsurgical face and eyelid rejuvenation through his innovative use of "injectibles" have made him world-renowned. Dr. Swift has always been a champion of the avant-garde, embracing new methods and technologies to better serve his patients.
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My interview with him was the highlight of the day as I was able to capture a better understanding of his ingenious concepts and the reason they are so successful. If I were to sum up Dr Swift I would say that he is perhaps one of the most intriguing individuals I have ever met. I found him to be compassionate, humble, yet highly resourceful, with a real passion for his work. His incredible energy was spiced with a witty sense of humour that made learning from him highly enjoyable, as he shared his knowledge with me with incredible generosity. But perhaps the most impressive characteristic that would overall define him is his intense focus on respecting and preserving the uniqueness of his patient. His skilful ability to improve their appearance with amazing anti-ageing results that literally look like he had turned the clock back without any tell-tale signs of any external intervention is unquestionably his trademark. His work is absolutely brilliant and is setting a new standard in cosmetic medicine globally. My interview was a lengthy one that covered a great deal of information – too much for this article, however, here are just some key highlights for the benefit of our readers.
APJ Q1: Dr Swift, can you please explain to us the changing concept of how we now define beauty or attractiveness and your definition of BeautiphicationTM ? DR SWIFT: The main shift we are seeing in the concept of beauty is that it is now becoming a universal concept where East and West are slowly merging into one melting pot. We are progressively influenced by multi-culturalism with the typical patient/client that comes to us often presenting with mixed ethnic characteristics.
New Concepts in APPEARANCE AND YOUTHFULNESS An interview with Dr Arthur Swift
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It was last year at the Cosmetex Conference in Melbourne that I first met Dr Arthur Swift while attending one of his lectures on attractiveness and redefining the beautiful face. I was so impressed with his presentation and in fact, considered his information the best take-home message of all the lectures I had attended, so I was delighted when this year Dr Swift was once again invited to speak at Cosmetex on the Gold Coast in May. Grasping this unique opportunity to interact face-to-face with him, I quickly requested an interview with him from the organisers, who were most accommodating.
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Dr Arthur Swift is a Board Certified plastic surgeon in Montreal with an amazing reputation not just in Canada, but also internationally. He is a very regular lecturer at aesthetic conferences worldwide and served on the executive of a dozen elite professional organisations. His compassion, artistic understanding and surgical expertise generate abundant client referrals from across the globe.
A recent study that attempted to measure attractiveness among difference cultures and races concluded with some interesting facts. Attractiveness was measured from 1 to 10 – 10 being the most attractive. The study revealed that unattractiveness from a scale of 1 to 3 differed extensively from one ethic group to another. However, as the numbers increased to a greater degree of attractiveness from 7-10 it was detected that attractiveness started to look similar e.g. oval face, natural “S” curves to the features rather than hollows and depressions, a light tan-coloured skin, size of the eyes and the distance between them were all similar in those who were defined as the most attractive or beautiful regardless of their race. What we are finding is that ethnic mixes often result in bringing together great characteristics; this is why we often find that some of our beauty queens are often part Asian, part Caucasian.
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The concept of Beautiphication™ is based on Leonardo Da Vinci's mathematical principle of beauty and harmony through “divine” proportion. It recognises that beauty is not just about restoring youthfulness, but in fact it resides in pleasing facial proportions. We use a caliper measuring tool, similar to the one used by the Renaissance master, to determine correct proportions for maximum harmony through the use of cosmetic injectibles and Symmetry using 2 RHS of the face dermal fillers with the precision necessary to enhance features, and restore smooth contours and achieve harmony and balance. Beauty is not about imitating someone else's features. It's about achieve subtle enhances in proportion and balance that will result in the best version of yourself. It is not necessary to flood the face with fillers to eradicate lines, it's more about maintaining your sense of self through subtle improvements that will enhance your own unique Original beauty. We often find that errors happen when doctors blindly follow what the patient requests instead of using their expertise and skills to achieve what would best suit their purpose. The ultimate objective is for the end result to deliver a fresh, more rested look that improves the face without any noticeable evidence of cosmetic intervention. In fact, if someone can detect that you have had some work done, as a cosmetic surgeon I would have failed in providing the best outcome.
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Symmetry using 2 LHS of the face
Symmetry using 2 RHS of the face
APJ Q2: What have we learnt from the past trends of over-volumising and filling for cosmetic enhancement? DR SWIFT: First, I believe the term volumising is a terrible word, because our work should not be about puffing out and volumising features, but rather about re-establishing contours and subtly lifting features into their original position. We all age differently – skin becomes thinner in various areas, we lose fat in some areas and gain it in another, while the skin can became duller. We therefore need to look at where we can lighten the skin, lift and tighten tissues, while adding some subtle fullness in other areas. If we do our work well others should not notice it other than to comment that the person looks rested and fresher. I am glad to say that the pendulum has now shifted to a place of balance. In 2001 for example, when I presented these concepts I was told that I was old-fashioned. After all these years now the minimalistic approach is considered the ideal. This has come as a result of the poor reputation of excessive use of fillers to overinflated features giving fillers a bad name. However, I don't believe you can blame the paint for a bad portrait. Similarly, it is not the fillers that are the problem, but rather the poor use of them by the doctor.
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Several studies now confirm that most people have differences between the right and left side of their face. As one ages this can result in looking younger on the one sides of the face than the other. This is why permanent implants can be doomed as the face can age quicker on one side than the other, so for example your implants may look great at 40, OK at 50 and possibly terrible at 60. Cheek implants still have their place, but as the face ages they will require the appropriate maintenance.
APJ Q3: How do you define symmetry? DR SWIFT: Beauty is not necessarily about symmetry as once believed, because as we now know, perfect symmetry takes away
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from beauty. It is not about making sure the two sides of the face are identical. My theory is that the two sides of the face should be sisters, but not identical twins. As for the two sides of the lips these should be twins – , the left and right side should be the same. Lips should be naturally enhanced to be smooth and velvety and should have a little volume as they support the teeth. However, a young person of 30 can carry a different level of volume to someone who is 50 when the surrounding muscles have lost their tone, so very full lips would look odd and out of place. Changes should be more subtle, for example downturned corners should not be upturned to a smile, but only enough to alleviate the downturn. These subtle improvements require great skill and a more focused approach, but the results are more natural and pleasing.
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APJ 29
patients and realise what they see as their need or priority, as these may be very different to what we perceive. I remember a young patient came to see me once for a cosmetic procedure. Her breasts were so large that they were touching the table, so my first thought was that
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this was going to be a breast-reduction case. However, when I questioned her what she wanted was her nose fixed. It is also important that we communicate as professionals to educate our patients on realistic expectations on what they can expect. The media will always inflate trends that influence what people are looking for. TV programs such as Extreme Makeover are actually dangerous. Individuals who come wanting to look like a film star are actually on the wrong track. While these cases were frequent in the past, it is good to see that the pendulum is now swinging to a happy place of normality, where consumers are now happy to continue looking like themselves, but fresher and more like their younger self. Not everyone can accommodate lips like Angelina Jolie. Angelina has a strong, lower face, which allows her large lips to still be in proportion to the rest of her face. It is also interesting to note that she is of mixed nationality being the daughter of a Slovak, German father, and a mother whose heritage is Canadian and Swiss French, but also has Dutch and Bohemian (Czech) ancestry.
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APJ Q4: How have injectibles evolved in what they can achieve? DR SWIFT: There is now a lot more choices in product formulations for injectibles. This requires on-going education not only in the various formulas, but also in new techniques that are needed for their use. There are now dermal fillers that are not inserted just beneath the skin, but just above the bone. There are more robust fillers that are stiffer and more cohesive and have a better lifting capacity. Techniques are constantly changing. It is therefore critical and essential for injectors to be constantly training in order to upgrade their skills and to be able to achieve better and more natural treatment outcomes. To achieve this you require both the new conceptual understanding of attractiveness as well as gain appropriate technical skills to achieve these outcomes. This is why it is important to ensure that your practitioner is up-to-date with these changes if you are looking for the most natural and best possible treatment result. It is actually mind-boggling how much techniques have changed.
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In the late ’80s if you came to see me I would have most likely recommended surgery in 90% of the cases, and if you didn't want surgery I would most likely have sent you home as it was not possible to achieve the necessary improvements without surgery. Now in 90% of the cases we can achieve excellent results with injectibles instead of surgery. It is quite amazing. There is now also a lot of researching going into devices that offer safer, quicker and more advanced results, so we are seeing a lot more players on the market. Some of us have a tendency to resist change, but we need to adapt to these changes if we are to survive. We are also experiencing regulatory agents that are trying to stop new innovations getting through, but the world is changing as are the demands of our consumers.
APJ Q5: What new trends have you experienced in consumer preferences? DR SWIFT: I think as practitioners we need to understand our
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APJ Q6: Dr Swift, how do you envisage the future? DR SWIFT: I see a great deal of new advances in technology that will allow us to specialise in amazing new results through non-invasive procedures. I also believe that within 10 years we will see the need for a lot less surgery. We will see fat-derived stem cells that will allow us to use a person's own stem cells to achieve a more youthful appearance without the need for other formulations. Fillers are going to be challenged if they are to keep up with the pace of changes in the marketplace as stem-cell derived procedures will rival their capabilities. It is important that we understand the changing psychology of what is considered desirable. It is also important to gain the skills to be able to offer more predictable and specific outcomes that we are able to achieve. There is no doubt that natural is the new trend as the ideal and this trend will continue. As for the future of consumers wanting to look good, I have a favourite quote: “Looking good never goes out of style even in a disruptive economy.” For example during World War II lipstick sales went through the roof, while during the last war in Lebanon, sales in Botox increased by 400 per cent. Consumers will always want to look and feel better and they will always find a way to invest in their appearance. This is human nature and this trend is not about to slow down. Dr. Swift is presently in private practice in Montreal where his freestanding clinic, The Westmount Institute of Plastic Surgery, is patterned on a boutique hotel concept complete with state-of-the-art equipment. He maintains an active academic staff position at St. Mary's Hospital, a McGill University affiliated institution. Dr. Swift is also medical director of Victoria Park, Montreal's premier medical spa and lifestyle centre. The Westmount Institute of Plastic Surgery 4131 Sherbrooke O, Westmount, QC H3Z 1B7, Canada
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APJ 30
Winning the War on Change & Competition MONDAY AUGUST 25 | 8am – 5pm | Novotel Sydney Central 169-179 Thomas St SYDNEY NSW
CONFERENCE PROGRAM AND SPEAKERS 8.00am – REGISTRATION & PICKUP DELEGATE'S KIT WELCOME | INTRODUCTION | NETWORKING TIME: 8.30 – 9.00am TOPIC: GLOBAL CHANGES AND HOW TO STAY AHEAD OF THE CHALLENGES TIME: 9.00 – 9.45am SPEAKER: Tina Viney, CEO, APAN
In a rapidly changing world it is easy to find yourself, professionally speaking and in your business, losing your edge in terms of recognition and position in today's competitive market. The remedy for this in based on accurate, non-biased information that will allow you to identify both industry and consumer changes in advance of them happening. The information in this lecture will allow you to gain just that, and empower you to identify how best to prepare and position yourself to win rather than lose regardless of the changes. Tina Viney is the foremost expert in trends as this is one of her passions for which she dedicates a great deal of time each day in staying up-to-date with global trends and industry changes. Furthermore, as the CEO of APAN she is also heavily involved with government and regulatory bodies.
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New consumer trends and recommendations of how to take advantage of them Regulatory changes currently in motion Forecast to the future Are you taking advantage of current tools available to you?
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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES
TOPIC: RIDING THE MOBILE MARKETING WAVE TO SUCCESS TIME: 10.15 – 11.00am SPEAKER: Tim Green, APAN Corporate Plan developer
APAN is delighted to announce that this year's APAN Aesthetics Conference in Sydney will be held on Monday 25th following the International Spa and Beauty Expo. With the theme “Winning the war on change and competition”, the program promises to not hold back in delivering a strong educational program, as well as valuable industry inside information that will empower you to secure your position as an industry leader.
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Astute and progressive salon and clinic owners invest in the latest technologies and aspire to lead in their field of practice. However, such investments also require a new approach to reaching and growing their client base through fast and cost-efficient ways to support their business investments and contribute to business growth and profitability. While there are several tools that promise to help you achieve this, many often come at a high cost and their success rates are not guaranteed. In this lecture you will gain insight into a more costeffective and secure solution. Tim Green is a highly qualified and experienced professional. He holds an MBA from Bond University, a Masters of Accounting as well as qualifications in psychology. Throughout his illustrious career he has helped many companies and businesses achieve substantial growth of up to 500%. The key to his success is that he approaches marketing from a point of how best to understand the consumer and their mindset and then determine the best tools to engage with them in a way they will respond. Effective marketing is no longer a hit-andmiss strategy.
IN THIS LECTURE YOU WILL LEARN:
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The latest trends in consumer behaviour The most cost-effective way of growing your database Cost-effective ways to measure the success of your marketing What you should expect to gain from your business promotions
NETWORKING BREAK 11.00 – 11.30am TOPIC: Part 2: PATHOPHYSIOLOGY OF THE SKIN TIME: 11.30am – 12.15pm SPEAKER: Professor Ray Hayek – Executive Dean of the Australasian College of Health and Wellness Stressful living, health challenges and poor diet can all contribute to skin manifestations. Pathophysiology is considered one of the most important subjects in a health science degree program. In this lecture Professor Hayek will present information on various skin disorders and how to correctly identify them and determine treatment approaches or referrals to a medical healthcare practitioner.
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Professor Hayek is the Executive Dean of the Australasia College of Health and Wellness. He has been instrumental in the drafting of the new Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics), ensuring that this qualification addresses the current education and skill needs of present and future aesthetic professionals who wish to adopt strategies that deliver best practice on their procedures.
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Understanding skin abnormalities Differential diagnosis of skin disorders Identifying lesions that are outside the scope of your practice Skin cancers and their pathology
allowing them to include into the equation their personal philosophy that also reflects changing global consumer views and expectations.
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Med.) GradCert(Hum. Nutr.) Studies now confirm that many skin disorders have links to nutrition, internal deficiencies and other contributing factors such as gut health. Gaining an understanding on the nutritional aspect of how you can support and enhance skin health will give you further ammunition on how to achieve better treatment outcomes and improve on your current results. Warren Maginn is a Functional Nutritional Medicine Practitioner and Educator who specialises in the treatment of chronic health concerns through the principles of functional and integrative medicine. Warren lectures students of Nutritional Medicine in Brisbane, Australia and is the National Technical Educator for Research Nutrition, supporting naturopathic and medical practitioners in their use of functional pathology testing and associated supplement prescriptions, within modern integrative health management.
IN THIS LECTURE YOU WILL LEARN:
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Skin manifestations and the internal deficiencies they point to How to address skin inflammation from a nutritional perspective Recent scientific studies on nutrients that benefit skin health What are the added benefits of taking an integrative approach to your treatment outcomes
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NETWORKING & AFTERNOON TEA BREAK 3.15 – 3.45pm
NETWORKING & LUNCH BREAK 12.15 – 1.15pm TOPIC: NUTRITION AND SKIN DISORDER – THE MULTIDISCIPLARY APPROACH TIME: 1.15 – 2.00pm SPEAKER: Warren Maginn BHSc(Nutr.
How to embrace new concepts that will bring joy and passion back into your work and life? Gain new insight on how to attract and keep new and existing clients? Take a fresh look at our changing world and review your choices Learn how you can be an agent for positive change in your environment
TOPIC: THE COSMECEUTICAL FACE (TIME FIGHTING TECHNOLOGY) TIME: 3.45 – 4.30pm SPEAKER: Terry Everitt, B.HSc, M.A Education There is no doubt that most want to fight time or at least how time shows on our outward appearance. The anti-ageing industry is a vast, multi-disciplinary, multisector enterprise, from skin emollients to stem cells and a whole lot in-between. In this seminar Terry will look through the lens of science to find what is scientifically possible as opposed to marketing. He will be presenting specific response possibilities to combat the disfunction of the epidermis and dermis. If the skin is effective in keeping water out, then how do we get product ingredients into the skin? Terry holds a Bachelor of Health Science as well as a Masters of Education. His passion for skin ingredients and skin science has given him the reputation as somewhat of a “guru” in skincare ingredients, with his commercially independent approach being his trademark.
IN THIS LECTURE YOU WILL LEARN:
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How some ingredients work and others do not Broad clinical relevance of using precursor ingredients Demystifying some common misconceptions regarding ingredients Gain confidence in currency and use of cosmetic chemistry for therapeutic advantages
NETWORKING BREAK 4.30 – 5.00pm
NETWORKING BREAK 2.00 – 2.30pm REGISTRATION: APAN members $179 | Non-members $195. TOPIC: TRANSFORMING AND EVOLVING YOUR BUSINESS TIME: 2.30 – 3.15pm SPEAKER: Isabelle Sennery – Specialist business development and coach 㤵 㜵
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Sometimes the missing link to our business's success is to step back and take a new approach, by examining who we are, our beliefs and passions and how are we going to better serve our clients while attracting new ones. Starting at this level can allow us to embrace new approaches that will better address the needs of a changing world. With a fresh and dynamic new perspective to business coaching Isabelle empowers businesses with a more holistic approach to business planning, organisation and goals. Her strategies deliver the skills to introduce a more holistic approach to a business's brand by
Enjoy a day of valuable education, fun, networking and be in the draw for prizes to be won on the day. This event is fully certified for all delegates who participate. Morning and afternoon tea as well as buffet lunch will be provided. It is also supported with a small exhibition. To register for the Conference please phone 07 5593 0360 or visit the APAN website www.apanetwork.com and register on-line.
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PRE-REGISTRATION IS ESSENTIAL FOR CATERING PURPOSES. Do you have staff that you would like to attend a hands-on skills development workshop? Running co-currently with the APAN Conference we will be conducting a full-day Certified workshop entitled BREAKTHROUGH SECRETS FOR SALON BRILLIANCE. For complete details please see page 36.
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APJ 33
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Five Steps To Making Your Salon Irresistible By Julie Hyne Salon owners around the world are united in experiencing similar issues. These issues include; unreliable and unproductive staff, rising expenses, difficult landlords, big gaps in appointment books, losing loyal clients for reasons unexplained, and just feeling tired and frustrated for having to carry the whole success of the salon on their shoulders, every day, every week. Being in this space can shatter confidence levels, morale, self-esteem; destroy personal and family life and, most importantly, goals and dreams. Some salon owners even ask whether it's worth staying in business at all. But, imagine for a second that everything was working perfectly, staff were happy, retail was disappearing off your shelf as quickly as you could stock them and your appointment book was under strain from new and existing clients rebooking. Imagine paying your bills each month being a pleasure, and by having money in the bank meant that you could make choices as to whether you invested in training, equipment, new products or possibly take that holiday you had always wanted. How good would that be?
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CREATING AN IRRESISTIBLE CLINIC How do you create the type of clinic that is so irresistible that people find it too hard to refuse your offers and just have to come in on a regular basis in order to maintain their secrets to youth and looking fabulous, while at the same time creating a healthy income for you? This can be achieved and it's all got to do with your image. What first and lasting impressions do you create in the minds of your clients? Are you irresistible?
In Australia, beauty is a $4 billion industry. It has roughly 21,000 hair
and beauty businesses, and employs around 80,000 people. The industry is forecast to grow at 1.3% per annum. So what does that have to do with being irresistible? I have been told and have first- hand experience in knowing that a business is only as good as the people it employs, therefore, are the staff you have on board competent and confident to create those allimportant first and lasting impressions on the clients you have walking through your doors, consistently, every day? If you want to be a dominant part of this growing industry, just having a salon isn't enough. You need to be absolutely certain on how clients perceive your business, and also know who these people are. Have you stopped to think about how highly your clients would rate you and how they perceive your salon? Do they have an opinion? Would they be willing to stick with your brand, or would they be tempted to try your competitor down the road this month? It's an interesting and very telling question to ask yourself, and because you are so close to the action most of the time, you may not stop to view the salon through the eyes of your clients.
What do they see, feel, hear and sense when they visit you? Does the experience your clients have with your business satisfy them and cause them to return? Are you listening to what your clients say about you? I believe salon success is delicately balanced between real needs and perceived wants. It is also critically affected by how much discretionary income people have in times of economic uncertainty; hence getting this right is critical.
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I remember having my salon during the GFC, and how much that affected sales and bookings. The only good thing was that women would come in to spend their stimulus package money on product they might not normally buy. But the number of clients dropped off due to tough times, and getting them back was really hard, in fact, some I never saw again. The experience clients have with your clinic or salon is the key to your success or otherwise, and this all starts with how your staff perform. Can they communicate effectively, verbally and non-verbally, build rapport and trust quickly and tap into what the client is really wanting? Are they presenting professionally, confidently, as a client might expect them to? Little things that are not consistent with what a client expects can be serious turn-offs and can cause a client to not return.
IDENTIFYING YOUR TARGET-MARKET NEEDS With the growth of the beauty industry, statistics are also proving that the areas of anti-ageing, male skincare, natural and cosmeceutical skincare and advanced procedures are where the opportunities lie, as Baby Boomers and younger clients seek to defy the ageing process and look younger for longer. Considering that the ages of these clients will range from early 20s to 60, how are you going to tap into the needs and wants of all of these different people? How are you positioning your salon to communicate your message to magnify the scope of clients you can reach? Make no mistake; this is what your competition will be thinking about too! To become irresistible you have to excel at the customer service you provide and the exceptional experience your client walks away with. It is imperative that you know what your client sees, feels and senses when they come to your salon. Is it enough, good enough, to keep you in business and prevent your clients from trying out your competition? Do you have an eye for detail? Using this consistently and correcting little imperfections can mean the difference between mediocrity and excellence in the minds of your clients. Think about some of the most successful customer service-driven businesses in the world. I like to refer to Zappos and Starbucks. These companies invest enormously in their staff to train them in delivering exceptional customer service. This is what delivers results and high profits for them.
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These steps are so simple; anyone can follow them and implement them with amazing results. They include the following areas:
Nobody wants to hear these statistics. In fact I know a lot of salon owners that would rather sweep this under the carpet and just complain and blame every other person or situation for their downfall. The truth sometimes hurts, but it can also be a wakeup call.
reputation looks like and what others think about you. Perfecting and polishing your presentation, attending to how well you project your message and how persuasively you communicate your message are all things you need to know.
2. Impression: Do you appear credible in the client's eye, trustworthy and confident? Can you create feelings of comfort for the client that encourages her to return? How appealing is your salon and does it align with the message you want clients to embrace?
3. Impact: Does the impression you make on your clients leave them with no doubt as to your position and depth of knowledge and skill? Are the conversations you have with your clients believable, causing her to trust and purchase from you? Can you relate with all the different types of personality types you have as clients and convert them quickly and effortlessly into loyal clients?
4. Integrity: Are you a person of integrity? Do you always follow through on your promises and respect the promises your brand delivers? Can your clients identify your uniqueness and promise of value? Is your reputation intact?
5. Identity: What about you? How well can you identify your vision and goals and are you working to achieve them, to feel valued and recognised for your efforts? These five steps are the essence of your own brand, your ibrand, and when all working in harmony, and in conjunction with each other, they will deliver the perfect equation to becoming an irresistible business.
At the cornerstone of many of these are your soft skills, identified as being:
Mastering these areas is what will take you from mediocrity to excellence, and being irresistible. Your clients demand exceptional customer service, and they are who keep you in business!
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1. Image: Your image is dependent on knowing what your
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A dissatisfied customer will tell between 9-15 people 13% of those tell more than 20 people 86% of consumers stop doing business because of bad customer experience For every customer complaint there are 26 others who remain silent
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FIVE STEPS TO MAKING YOUR SALON IRRESISTIBLE
Here are some interesting statistics you may wish to consider:
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This is the essence of being irresistible and making your salon so attractive and tempting that your clients will never leave or even think about trying your competition.
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So what delivers great customer experience and customer service in your salon? What is the experience you want your clients to have when visiting your clinic or salon? Can your staff deliver and communicate the customer experience you want your clients to have? If not, then there is a big problem.
What are you doing to create and enhance the feeling of comfort a client has with you to prevent them becoming one of these statistics?
Interpersonal skills Attitude Presentation Leadership Etiquette Values Body language
ABOUT JULIE HYNE
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Julie Hyne is an internationally renowned and accredited stylist, image consultant and personal branding specialist who has worked in industries where image and style are vitally important. Her recent accomplishments include launching an online salon success training program – Business4Beauty and has written her first book – Invaluable, what every salon owner wanting success needs to know.
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Julie is accredited and on the Melbourne Chapter Board with the AICI (Association of Image Consultants International), a past salon owner, and holds a Bachelor of Business, Diploma of Modelling, Certificate in TV and Media Presenting, and Certificate IV in Training and Assessment. Julie is a sought-after speaker on all matters relating to professional readiness, etiquette, and corporate dress code. Business 4 Beauty – Salon Image and Etiquette training. www.business4beauty.com
If you would like more insight into how your business can become irresistible to meet the changing needs and wants of this growing industry, call Julie on 043 3114 841 or email her on info@business4beauty.com for a complimentary 30-minute discovery session where we uncover the gaps in your business that are preventing you from achieving your potential.
You can also attend a comprehensive training workshop on the 25th August to be held in conjunction with the APAN Australian Aesthetic Conference in Sydney. See below for details.
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BREAKTHROUGH SECRETS FOR SALON BRILLIANCE SYDNEY: Full-day Workshop Monday 25th August 8.30am – 4.30pm In conjunction with the APAN Australian Aesthetic Conference This is a Professional Development Certified Training Program Are you passionate enough and ready to transform your business from ordinary to exceptional? Do you wish to enjoy the results of high performing staff that consistently generate high profits and work to build a strong, prosperous, elite salon or clinic? Would you like to elevate the status of your salon to secure a privileged position that distinguishes you from all your competition and converts your salon to an owners dream? In this workshop Julie will deliver comprehensive training in the five essential elements that can help you make the shift from average to outstanding, and give you actionable tasks to implement as soon as your training is over.
YOU WILL LEARN:
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Concept of ibrand-your total image that is the cornerstone to your success Reputation and how it can make you or break you The power of first impressions in attracting and keeping loyal clients Grooming and presentation essentials that win you respect and referrals Verbal and non-verbal communication skills for creating impact and sales The importance of etiquette and manners in building rapport and trust The relationship between image and lifelong loyal clients How to reach brilliance in five simple steps
Morning and afternoon tea and a full Buffet Lunch will also be included. As the conference program will also include a small exhibition, delegates to the workshop will also be given free access to the exhibition.
Registration fee: $495.00 per person This is an intensive and personalised workshop with a LIMIT OF 12 POSITIONS ONLY.
WHO SHOULD UNDERTAKE THIS TRAINING?
90-page Workbook compete with tasks and action steps Statement of Attendance in Salon Image Management Voucher valued at $250 for a one-hour personal consultation
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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES
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Sydney NSW
Winning the War on Change & Competition MONDAY AUGUST 25 | 8am – 5pm | Novotel Sydney Central 169-179 Thomas Street SYDNEY NEW SOUTH WALES Bringing National Experts and International information to Sydney ! Certified Professional Development ! ! ! ! ! 㤵 㜵
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Conference Six dynamic speakers Leading unbiased educational program The latest in industry news, research and industry developments Discover what lies ahead and determine your options Gain the competitive advantage
CHANGES IN THE INDUSTRY REVEALED CAN YOU AFFORD NOT TO KNOW
THERE IS NO PROGRAM LIKE IT Who should attend Salon and Spa business owners Practitioners and therapists Dermal therapists Aesthetic nurses Educators and Trainers Industry professionals “I have attended many conference events, but the calibre of information presented at APAN's Conferences offered me the best industry insight, serious education and business strategies. Their programs offer the perfect balance of topics to help me set my direction on a more focused course to reach my goals with greater conference. This program was the best value for money.” Jane Taylor, Qld
This is a fully catered and Certified Professional Development Program Learn Conceptualise Innovate Network Implement
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APAN Members $179 | Non-APAN Members $195 | For accommodation phone 02 9281 6888 quote APAN
REGISTER TODAY by phone or on-line | Ph: 07 5593 0360 | info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com
Step Up to Your New Career! Become a Qualified Laser Technician Aspiring to work with advanced treatments? Need a laser licence? Take your career to the next level as a Laser Technician through Australian Skin Clinics Training Academy. Our fully Accredited Laser Safety Course is essential to obtaining a trainee laser licence. Our experienced trainers will provide the training and assessment required to gain your Laser Safety Certificate. Without this you are unable to obtain a licence to carry out laser treatments in Queensland. Visit www.ozskin.com/training to learn more about this course and how you can become a Laser Technician. Ph 07 5509 0060
Australian Skin Clinics
Training Academy
Recruiting Now Melbourne, Brisbane, Sydney, Gold Coast Australian Skin Clinics is growing! We have positions available in existing clinics due to growth and in new clinics as part of our expansion program. We are a dynamic company that supports our team 100% with ongoing training, excellent remuneration and incentive packages, career advancement programs and franchise opportunities.
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Australian Skin Clinics
Cosmetic Medical, Laser & Rejuvenation
Step Up To Your New Career!
industryexpert
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Ten minutes with Jane Iredale
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Jane Iredale has a global reputation as one of the pioneers of mineral makeup formulated for the professional market. Within Australia she is acknowledged as an industry expert and her brand has an incredible reputation. Jane was kind enough to answer some of our questions for the benefit of our readers and share with us some of her expert advice and opinions on various issues pertaining to makeup formulations.
APJ Q1. Jane, can you tell us what is the difference between natural versus mineral makeup and can you successfully combine the two? Jane Iredale: This is a difficult question because there is no definition of “natural” in the cosmetic world. Anybody can call any product “natural”. I know the FDA is wrestling with this issue, but as of now it is not resolved. There is no real definition of mineral makeup. It was originally used to describe makeup that was 100% mineral pigments and contained no fillers such as talc. It also came to mean a makeup that gave light yet complete coverage and broadspectrum sun protection. It was also devoid of skin sensitisers and chemical toxins. In other words, a makeup that made the skin look beautiful and natural and was good for it. This is how our brand began and it still adheres to that definition 20 years later.
Jane Iredale APJ Q2. From your experience what are the latest consumer trends when it comes to makeup? In your opinion what are consumers looking for today? Jane Iredale: The trend that has been with us a long time and I think will continue to be is that women want to look like themselves, only better. This means a foundation that doesn't look heavy and cakey, that looks natural and light and yet gives coverage. The consumer wants multifunctional makeup that's easy to apply. Everyone's looking for a way to save time! As far as colour goes, I think it's all over the map. That's the wonderful thing of living in today's world; no-one is a slave to rules anymore. Although the cat eye is having a moment, it won't be with us next year. So anything goes. Of course, the smoky eye will always be in no matter what.
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APJ Q3. There is a strong concept in the market that mineral makeup cannot deliver a high-end glamour look and that it it is not long-lasting. What is your opinion on this and
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how do you overcome the challenge to provide a prestige fashion finish without compromising on ingredients? Jane Iredale: Not sure where that concept is coming from because we have a long list of celebrities who wear our makeup for red carpet events and photography. That certainly isn't the perception in the US. Also, one of the benefits of mineral makeup is the fact that it lasts so long. The particles adhere to each other and create a surface tension that overcomes gravity. I hear over and over again from our consumers that they no longer drag makeup bags around with them because they put their makeup on in the morning and they don't need to touch-up. This is why it's used by so many brides. Since we use pure pigments with no fillers we get tons of pay-off, which is exactly what a fashion finish is looking for. I really don't have a challenge in that area.
APJ Q4. Tell us a little about the jane iredale journey and to what do you attribute your success as a brand? Jane Iredale: We built our business one customer at a time by word-of-mouth. I used to say and still do that we just have to get our makeup on the consumer and she will be converted. Samples are still our biggest asset. It was really the consumers who grew the brand for me because they kept asking for more and more. Today, with all of our exposure on social media, it's easier for the consumer than ever to tell me what she wants and I do listen. Our new Jelly Jars are a response to so many requests for gel eyeliners. I still do all the product development.
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APJ Q5. Jane, you pioneered the mineral makeup which is now widely available through numerous brands, what is your competitive advantage and how do you maintain it? Jane Iredale: We never compromise and are always innovating. I have a great team
of people around me who hold the same values and love what they do. I believe our products deliver results like no other, and added to that we strongly believe in education and customer service. We think of ourselves as a family among which the consumer is a huge part.
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Jane Iredale makeup is distributed in Australia by Margifox Distributors Ph 1300 850 008
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legalmatters
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Are You Engaging A Medical Practitioner To Perform Injectible Procedures In Your Clinic Or Salon? By Jane Ingram Lawyer | Pointon Partner Lawyers
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In recent times we have consulted with several salon and clinic owners who are experiencing a certain level of grief because of miscommunication or a lack of clear contractual agreements when engaging a medical practitioner to perform injectibles on their clients within their premises. While it is a prudent practice and makes good business sense to provide your clients with cosmetic medical procedures through a visiting medical practitioner, without a formal agreement between you and the medical practitioner you are potentially positioning yourself in a risky situation in the event that for whatever reason you wish to terminate the arrangement.
contract in place formalising the relationship with the medical practitioner that includes the agreed terms and conditions of the working relationship.
Recently, one of our members who was experiencing several complaints from their clients who were receiving injectible procedures decided to terminate the engagement with their visiting doctor after several unsuccessful attempts to come to a resolution over these issues.
It is not uncommon for beauty salons to engage medical practitioners to perform services that can only be performed by suitably qualified professionals, such as injectables and fillers.
At this point the salon owner was threatened with unfair dismissal (even thought the doctor was not hired as an employee), there were disputes as to who owned the client database and several other concerns. On the other hand, another member experienced a lack of payment of their fee percentage from the doctor, who was collecting the client/patient fees without any payment to the salon. These and several other horror stories point to the need to stress that it is imperative before salons hire a medical practitioner to have a clear
While we have assisted some members with some recommendations with a Memorandum of Understanding as a temporary measure, in view of the potential volatilities that are currently occurring it is advisable to establish a legal contract in order to avoid future aggravations. We therefore approached our lawyers for their recommendations, which we have included below.
It is often the case, however, that these medical practitioners are not engaged by the salon under any formal agreement, be that by way of an employment, independent contractor or medical service agreements. If this is the case, they are therefore not bound by duties of confidentiality and similar beneficial protections. For example, there have been instances where medical practitioners have gained access to and used confidential information such as client lists belonging to salons where they have performed services for their own benefit. It is therefore important that salon owners and employers formalise these arrangements to not only protect the goodwill of their business, but also to avoid potential legal disputes. This can be done by way of a medical services or contractor agreement.
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POINTON PARTNERS LAWYERS
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If you have any queries in relation to this article or any other legal issues affecting your business please feel free to contact Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners.
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APAN members receive an initial free consultation in relation to any legal queries or issues they may have.
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Pointon Partners is a client-focused commercial law firm based in Melbourne, but which services clients nationally. Pointon Partners is able to assist with: ! advice on obligations under the Fair Work Act & the Hair and Beauty Industry Award 2010; ! preparation of employment contracts; ! advice on termination of staff & defending of unfair dismissal claims; ! registration of trademarks; ! trademark disputes; ! preparation or review of commercial leases; ! negotiation & preparation of commercial contracts; ! franchising; ! wills and estate planning; and ! buying or selling a business.
Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners can be contacted on (03) 9614 7707 or by email mjb@pointonpartners.com.au or ah@pointonpartners.com.au A medical services agreement operates to regulate the relationship between the parties, stipulating foremost that the medical practitioner is an independent contractor and not an employee of the business.
An agreement of this type also provides for the terms and conditions on which the medical practitioner is to be engaged to provide the services, including: ! whether or not the medical practitioner is engaged exclusively by the business or can perform services for other businesses (typically it would be a non-exclusive arrangement); ! Board registration and public insurance requirements to be met by the medical practitioner; ! rate and method of payment and invoicing procedures; ! who will provide the resources necessary to perform the services i.e. uniforms, product, equipment; ! whether the medical practitioner is permitted to hire their own nursing staff (and on what basis such staff are to be engaged); ! compliance with salon policies; ! obligations regarding confidentiality and intellectual property; ! termination and dispute-resolution processes.
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As each case may vary in terms of how you wish to position this relationship, it is advisable that you establish an agreement to suit your individual requirements.
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If you require assistance with the preparation of a medical services agreement, please contact Pointon Partner Lawyers. If you are an APAN member please quote your membership number as special rates apply to you. Ph: 03 9614 7707 and ask for Michael Bishop or Jane Ingram.
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makeuptrends
autoimmune reaction only once ingested, so how does that relate to makeup, which is topically applied.
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Jane Essendon suffers from gluten intolerance. Every time she wore her eye makeup, her eyes became swollen, heavy and watery. On closer examination she found that her mascara had gluten in it.
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Why GLUTEN FREE is the new trend in Makeup Formulations While Australia has still been slow on the uptake the US is fast become a trend for gluten-free makeup. We know that the gluten-free dietary trend has been around for a long time and is linked to coeliac disease. But why gluten-free makeup? What is driving this new trend?
WHAT IS COELIAC DISEASE? Coeliac disease is caused by an inappropriate immune response to gluten in the diet. When gluten is consumed, the immune response causes symptoms similar to food poisoning, such as nausea, vomiting, bloating and diarrhoea. Coeliac disease causes damage to the small intestine and can lead to significant medical complications such as malnutrition, osteoporosis, infertility, liver failure and cancer. Treatment for coeliac disease involves strict and lifelong adherence to a gluten-free diet, a complex, expensive and onerous task that does not always lead to complete disease remission. It is not well understood what puts a person at risk of developing coeliac disease. The disease is partly genetic in origin, and susceptibility genes can be shared between family members. However, it is not known what triggers the immune response to gluten – which can occur at any age or why there is great variability between the symptoms between coeliac disease sufferers.
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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT COELIAC DISEASE It is estimated that at least one in 60 Australian women and one in 80 men are affected by coeliac disease, but approximately 80% of those affected remain undiagnosed. Strict adherence to a gluten free diet is onerous, and may not completely prevent the short-term symptoms and long-term complications associated with coeliac disease.
WHAT ABOUT MAKEUP? When I first heard about gluten-free makeup I was quite amused as I could not comprehend how it can be a concern when makeup is applied to the skin as those allergic to the protein can trigger an
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There is now evidence that many more sufferers who are having similar experiences are realising that there is more to a glutenfree lifestyle than making dietary changes. Gluten is sneaky. As many are discovering it may also be lurking in the makeup and toiletries you consider as daily staples. Gluten based products are sometimes used as a binder to help ingredients stick together and to add moisture to products through gluten-derived oils. “Lipstick, lip-gloss, mouthwash, toothpaste they can all trigger a reaction in people with coeliac disease," says Alice Bast, founder and president of the National Foundation for Coeliac Awareness (NFCA). "If you're sensitive to gluten, you should be using gluten-free cosmetics and toiletries. Even if you don't experience any symptoms, you could be doing damage on the inside." Her thinking, though accepted by many, is yet to become mainstream. Experts are split over whether sufferers should avoid cosmetics that contain gluten. Some are adamant that gluten-free cosmetics prevent flare-ups, while others suspect that the amount of gluten in makeup is too small to trigger real problems. There's no standard protocol yet and the question will remain murky until more research exists. With the increased public awareness of coeliac disease and other gluten-sensitive conditions, several cosmetic manufacturers have introduced gluten-free products. This is especially relevant to lip products that can be ingested during use. Furthermore, if your cosmetic products are applied to the skin, just by touching your face with your hands before eating can contribute to ingesting some of those ingredients, so it stands to reason that it's best to be safe than sorry.
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One brand that is responding to the market demand for gluten-free cosmetics is EMANI the makeup brand, distributed in Australia exclusively by Be Beauty. If you would like to learn more about this product phone 1300 885 101.
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Make up that functions like skincare Emani is designed with highly functional ingredients that enhance and benefit the most sensitive, acne prone and ageing skin. ✔ 100% Vegan ✔ 100% Gluten free ✔ 100% Cruelty free ✔ 100% Talc and paraben free ✔ Minerals with natural and organic extracts ✔ High performance and long-lasting wear ✔ No harsh chemicals or petrochemicals ✔ Recycled and biodegradable paper packaging
To become a stockist please call 1300 885 101 or email info@bebeauty.com.au www.emaniaustralia.com.au
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skinrejuvenation
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Do you want to achieve TRUE and MEASURABLE RESULTS for Face and Body? The credibility of your treatments and the calibre of results they can produce will determine how well you gain and keep your clientele and how successful you will be in convincing them to invest in your treatment recommendations. TRUE RESULTS is the key consideration, particularly as people become more conscious as to how they spend their money.
the skin. Their polarity optimises their performance and manages to transport both ionisable and neutral substances. These substances are enriched with actives of low molecular weight that will readily respond to the mesotherapy techniques by multiplying for effective cellular absorption of the active ingredients. They are available in the following formulations:
Additionally, results will need to be maintained to ensure that the treatment process was worth the investment. To achieve these objectives you must ensure that the technologies you invest in are credible and scientifically validated.
FOR THE FACE
New advances in technology has taken results one step further. Science now recognises that each technology can produce results, but with certain limitations. However, by combining several technologies systematically working together, the results can be greatly accelerated, bringing treatment outcomes to a new level through a synergistic effect. One such innovation is the new Skeyndor MesoScience technique and its unique advanced approach to facial rejuvenation, cellulite and body sculpting.
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MESOSCIENCE by SKEYNDOR is a scientific breakthrough that is at the forefront of technological advancement in aesthetic modalities. It incorporates a powerful synergy of a four-phase electro-therapy system to strengthen and multiply the effect of virtual “needle” therapies. It incorporates: ! ACTIVATING CURRENT: The preparatory phase that stimulates skin metabolism. ! HYDRO-ELECTROPHORESIS: The initial stage during which the ionisable active ingredients penetrate into the epidermis. ! ELECTROPORATION: This current favours the penetration of active ingredients through the cells by means of the aqueous channels in the cell membrane. ! CRYO-ELECTROPHORESIS: This is the final stage stabilising
the actives into the skin.
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For these treatments Skeyndor has developed a series of ultraconcentrates formulated with encapsulating systems and penetrating agents for channelling the active ingredients into the deeper layers of
MESOFILLER: To lift, moisturise and increase skin density This treatment product is specifically formulated to soften wrinkles and expression lines, and increase firmness of the face, neck and decolletage. It stimulates the skin's vital functions and supports the integrity of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. Mesofiller significantly improves moisture retention, increases firmness and softens the appearance of lines. It is particularly suited to mature and sun-damaged skin. Key active ingredients include: ! MICROCOLLAGEN: An epidermal growth factor that stimulates the synthesis of extra-dermal matter into fibroblasts, “filling in” the dermis. ! LIPOSOMED POLYPHENOLS: Dermo-stimulating effect to improve skin rejuvenation. ! MICROALGA: Supports the integrity of collagen
FOR THE BODY Two key formulations to address slimming and firmness MESOSLIM This treatment formula acts to address the three processes giving rise to orange-peel skin and cellulite – sluggish micro-circulation, imbalance in lipogenesis/lipolysis and body- composition effect. The Mesoslim product is rich in fat and water-soluble antioxidants that block the formation of free radicals. The key ingredients include: ! LAMINARIA EXTRACT – that works to reduce the accumulation of new triglycerides and favours the elimination of stored lipids. ! DECAPEPTIDE – to promotes the burning of fat and limits the maturing of immature fat cells. ! MARINE FENNEL EXTRACT – to promotes fat catabolism. ! ARTICHOKE EXTRACT – for its ability to favour the drainage and elimination of toxins
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MESOFIRMNESS This is a body-firming formula that acts on tissue slackness caused by ageing, pregnancy or by rapid weight loss. It strengthens the skin's elasticity in the stomach, inner thighs and upper-arms. Mesofirmness will redefine the skin's appearance and is also effective for stretchmarks and scarring.
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This is a progressive conductive gel with great moisturising power with extraordinarily emollient properties and fluid, which enables it to be used in large areas. It is rich in fat and water-soluble antioxidants. Key ingredients are:
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ORGANIC SILICON AND COLLAGENIC AMINO ACIDS – for a firming and anti-glycation effect. MICROALGA – to support the integrity of collagen.
LIPOSOMED POLYPHENOLS – for its dermo-stimulating effect to improve skin rejuvenation.
HOW MESOSCIENCE WORKS The Skeyndor Mesoscience procedure involves infusing microscopic quantities of potent vitamins and natural plant extracts into the skin to treat various conditions, rejuvenating and revitalising. It is performed in an initial series of six treatments, once per week. Results are maintained by monthly touch-up sessions (depending on individual conditions).
ACTIVATING CURRENT Using four specific techniques, the active ingredients are able to penetrate directly towards the area of focus. This is achieved without the aid of injections and transports both ionisable and neutral substances into the tissues. The active current further promotes greater vascular response to the treatment area. This ensures optimum quantities of active ingredients are absorbed through the skin in a uniform manner.
HYDRO-ELECTROPHORESIS This is a non-invasive method using a pulsed current to assist water-soluble active ingredients to penetrate the tissue, transporting ingredient molecules across the dermal barrier.
ELECTROPORATION
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The skin has an incredible ability to protect the body from absorbing substances from the external to the internal environment. In order to achieve trans-dermal penetration science has worked extensively to develop means and ways of overcoming the skin's barrier. One such discovery that has achieved this is the concept of electroporation. This system uses electrical currents with considerable voltage and very short pulses to promote permeability of the cell membrane, which helps the transport of substances into the deeper layers of the skin. As a concept electroporation is founded on the phenomenon discovery by Dr Roderick based on the 2003 Nobel Prize in Chemistry. Since then, electroporation has been successfully used in medicine, particularly for the treatment of targeting and
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destroying skin tumours. This method capitalises on the relatively weak nature of the phospholipid bilayers of the skin. It targets both hydrophobic and hydrophilic cell plasma membranes. Since the phospholipid bilayer of the plasma membrane has a hydrophobic exterior and a hydrophobic interior any polar molecules, including DNA and protein, are unable to freely pass through the membrane.
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Through a quick voltage it disrupts this protective membrane temporarily for just a few seconds. During this brief disruption polar molecules are allowed to pass through the membrane. The membrane then reseals quickly leaving the cells intact.
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CRYOPHORESIS
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This is the final stage of stimulation to tone and firm the skin. This method utilises the application of cold to increase a local vascular response through an activating current. Second, the cooling of the solution together with the hydroelectrophoresis pulses moves the substance, under optimum conditions, to the deeper layers of the skin so that it favours absorption, and the active ingredients are allowed to firm and tone the skin.
CLINICAL STUDIES This multi-purposed unit has been proven through clinical studies to be able to successful distribute active ingredients to the deeper layers of the skin. This technology will benefit several conditions including: ! Flaccidity ! Stretch marks ! Cellulite ! Scars ! Facial rejuvenation ! Alopecia ! Painful conditions such as Rheumatism
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MESOSCIENCE HAS DEMONSTRATED THAT IT CAN SUPPORT THE SKIN IN THE FOLLOWING WAY: AT AN EPIDERMAL LEVEL:
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Promote cell renewal Reduce cohesion between corneocytes and reduce the thickness of the corneous layers (hyperkeratosis) Help actives to penetrate the skin
AT A DERMAL LEVEL:
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Produces a pro-collagen and glycosaminoglycan effect Increase the proliferation of fibroblasts
AT A HYPODERMAL LEVEL:
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Promote micro-circulation
POWER HYALURONIC As we known, hyaluronic acid plays a key role in the skin's hydration levels and in supporting the skin's plumpness and volume. For this reason it is a common ingredient in volumising injectibles. 㤵 㜵
Now a new formula POWER HYALURONIC developed by Skeyndor, uses advanced technology to deliver valuable hyaluronic acid to the deeper layers of the skin through various molecular weights that allow for a better, more efficient penetration.
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Power Hyaluronic can also be infused into the skin through Mesoscience technology as an added ammunition against dehydration and ageing skin.
Knowing that your active ingredients can penetrate the skin to a level
that they can support skin renewal and collagen integrity is now achievable. Mesoscience is a credible and scientifically proven technology that can assist you in achieving effective targeting of the treatment areas and bring your treatment results to a whole new level for facial rejuvenation or for impressive body treatment results.
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If you are serious about credible results then make Mesoscience your professional partner in the fight against ageing and cellulite.
For further information or for a free trial phone: VOGUE IMAGE GROUP on 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033.
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Are you ready for a higher level of skin improvement without the need for surgery?
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WE NOW HAVE THE ANSWER!
The Virtual Needle, MESOSCIENCE by SKEYNDOR is the most revolutionary non-invasive treatment since the invention of injections! ! ! ! ! !
Ultimate Multi-functional device The number one choice of dynamic beauty therapists world-wide Exceptional delivery of actives Super-charged, immediate and long-lasting results for face and body Proven clinical results
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For a copy of the Clinical Trials or to arrange a demonstration please contact
1800 554 545 info@vogueimage.com.au
internationalaward
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Tina Viney APAN CEO with her IPSN International Award
Australian Industry Leaders receive International Award of Honour By Barbara Hawkings Secretariat International Professional Standards Network
On the 24th 26th March 2014, the International Professional Standards Network (IPSN) held its industry conference and meetings in Hong Kong, and this year marked its Inaugural Awards of Honour that were presented to industry leaders from both the beauty and hairdressing sectors.
WHO IS IPSN?
The establishment of the IPSN industry benchmark for beauty therapy was an extensive process over almost two years. Following the initial mapping of qualifications, the New Zealand and Canadian national qualifications were reviewed and updated in their respective countries. This meant that the qualifications mapping for the IPSN benchmark needed to be updated to reflect this. By achieving appropriate mapping of qualifications this ensures that IPSN benchmark is of the appropriate standard that is also reflective of the current workplace practices in each country. In February 2012 IPSN officially welcomed the fifth member country Hong Kong.
Put simply, the International Professional Standards Network (IPSN) constitutes a collective of countries who work together to create an internationally recognised industry benchmark. This benchmark assists individuals in having the qualifications and skills recognised by an international industry body in member countries. This helps to ensure the integrity of the organisation, allowing it to improve global labour mobility as professionals can gain international recognition for their qualifications in an efficient and simple process.
Australian is represented by Service Skills Australia as one of the four founding countries who benchmark educational qualifications and industry standards through the International Professional Standards Network to improve the industry recognition and mobility of skillsbased occupations worldwide. Each year IPSN is gaining international recognition and is looking forward to continued growth through the inclusion of new member countries across all continents.
The conference theme this year was Skills Benchmarking -- Benefits and Values and focused on global labour mobility, international trends and the latest in education and training.
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KEEPING THE STANDARDS CURRENT
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The first international industry standard for an IPSN Certification was hairdressing in 2010, followed by beauty therapy in 2012.
THE CONFERENCE This year the conference was opened by Hong Kong IPSN Board
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member Josephine Kea Chi Shun.
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Robert Fearnside, Deputy Executive Director of the Hong Kong Council for Accreditation of Academic and Vocational Qualifications, presented the significance of national and
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regional qualification frameworks and discussed the challenges and possibilities of what this can achieve for an industry's recognition.
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Sylvie Mon, Regional Marketing Director of La Prairie Switzerland, presented the importance of knowing your
customers to create a unique experience in luxury brands, and the importance of the personal approach and gaining the communication skills to help your clients fall in love with your brand of product and services, as the key to a loyal and growing client base.
Edward Hung of Cengage Learning demonstrated the latest in online education platforms and how they can facilitate learning in regional and remote locations, allowing a broader segment of society to engage and gain qualifications despite demographic restrictions.
Professor Ray Hayek stressed why tertiary-level education is now becoming increasingly more important in supporting the professionalism and future of the Aesthetics industry. He also highlighted current and future training and education requirements to meet the needs of a constantly changing world and introduced the new Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) and how this program promises to support the profession in a more comprehensive way.
Dr HH Leung
Anne Miller
Dr Ivor Blumenthal
Ruth Browne
Andreas Lomas of the Mandarin Oriental Global Spa presented the value of brand, marketing and promotions for the spa and salon industry and the evolution of customer service, and addressed key areas that need to be constantly evaluated and improved upon.
Erica Cumming, New Zealand Board member, presented L'Oreal’s (New Zealand) latest research for the hairdressing industry in New Zealand and the enormous possibilities to achieve further growth and recognition for professional hairdressing and business growth.
Dr. Ivor Blumenthal of Ark Consulting South Africa provided
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a thought-provoking presentation on the future of labour mobility in the hairdressing and beauty industries and the need for industries to take responsibility for the rules and guidelines that define them. Failing to do this, he stressed, would allow commercial companies to dictate and shape an industry's identity, its recognition and professional status. He spoke about the importance of innovation and for potential for international organisations such as IPSN to contribute not only to the improvement of labour mobility across nations, but also to demonstrate leadership in shaping the future of their industries.
AWARD OF HONOUR The IPSN also introduced this year the Award of Honour Program. The Award is given by an IPSN member country to an individual that has made significant contribution to their industry. In choosing the recipient of the IPSN Award of Honour, regard is given to the nominee's achievements in the year prior to receiving the award as well as their past achievements and ongoing contribution to their industry.
THE AWARD SELECTION CRITERIA Nominees were assessed and were required to meet the judging criteria that reviewed seven specific areas:
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Demonstrated excellence in their industry Significant contribution to their industry An inspirational role model for their industry Personal academic and professional achievements Contribution in their industry (how has the nominee “put back” into their industry to benefit others Demonstrated leadership, innovation and creativity Achievements as an individual or as part of a group or organisation
The IPSN Award of Honour is the highest honour in the International Professional Standards Network for distinguishing persons who have contributed to their industry beyond the call of their everyday duty in their respective country. The candidate was selected as deserving of
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Industry, her name evoking success and innovation.
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In presenting the award to Tina, Jeanette Allen the IPSN Chairperson concluded by stating “Congratulations Tina, Australia is very proud of your achievements.”
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WHAT IS THE INTERNATIONAL PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS NETWORK (IPSN)
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Dr HH Leung with the Japanese Delegation high standing in their industry and the community.
Furthermore, this award is given to a person that has made a significant contribution to the following three areas: 1. The development of their specific industry, and their 2. Community or Society, or 3. In the development of Vocational Education or Training standards
The following people were winners of the 2014 IPSN Award of Honour: Hong Kong
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Dr HH Leung Dr Yuk Shan Cheung Shirley Kim Robinson Mr Chao Chen Kuo Professor Cheng Ming
Australia
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Tina Viney (beauty) Ruth Browne (hairdressing)
New Zealand
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Anne Miller Andrea Bullock
South Africa
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Dr Ivor Blumenthal
Australia was delighted to nominate Tina Viney for this Award. Tina is recognised as a visionary, leading authority and figure-head in the Australian Beauty and Aesthetics industry. Her unique insight and valuable expertise have resulted in the continued and notable advancement of the industry on both national and State levels. Her vast knowledge and in-depth contribution to higher education directly contributed to the establishment of the exclusive Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetic Therapies), the first university degree qualification for Aesthetics in Australia through the University of New England. Tina is frequently invited to sit on University Advisory Boards and consulted in the development of new qualifications in beauty and aesthetics. Tina is also presently part of the Working Group with the Australian Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency (ARPANSA) for the development of national regulations in the use of laser and IPL for cosmetic purposes within Australia.
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Internationally focused, Tina Viney has created dynamic perspectives that have and continue to revolutionise the Beauty and Aesthetics
The IPSN is an international body that aims to increase reciprocity and mutual recognition through certification of internationally developed industry benchmarks so professionals may gain industry recognition; thereby assisting in the mobility of the workforce between the participating countries.
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The International Professional Standards Network (IPSN) member countries presently include Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Hong Kong/China and Japan. Representatives from other countries are invited to become members and participate in the strategic direction of the IPSN. IPSN is a newly formed association with the secretariat based in Australia. This network is self funded and covers two industry sectors at this time, hairdressing and beauty, with the goal of including other industry areas over time.
THE IPSN AIMS:
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To recognise global mobility of applicants taking into consideration, mutual recognition and benchmarked standards. This may lead to the verification of competency. To provide quality leadership aimed at the achievement of the goals and objectives of the ipsn. To encourage and promote the concept of international standards through training, assessment and standards development. To promote and enhance each industry To maintain an awareness of participating countries' innovations and developments, and to bring these to the Board's attention periodically.
Being a member of the IPSN can bring a huge range of benefits to the industries it represents by aiming to raise the standards of training, assessment and delivery through the mapping of competencies between the participating countries to ensure equivalence. The organisation provides the opportunity for countries to work together and cooperate internationally, so that best practice in standards, training and learning resources can be shared. IPSN has currently mapped beauty and nail technology skills for each member country's qualifications. Those who meet IPSN criteria in qualifications and experience can apply for certification that will be industry recognised in other member countries. Each participating country has mapped their qualifications and industry recognition processes against an agreed benchmark. The purpose of this benchmarking is to assist individuals having their skills recognised by industry in those countries that are members of the IPSN. Service Skills Australia represents Australia as one of the five founding countries who benchmark educational qualifications and industry standards through the International Professional Standards Network (IPSN) to improve the industry recognition and mobility of skills-based occupations worldwide.
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Australian Beauty Therapists Would you like your qualifications and industry experience to be internationally recognised? You can now apply for
INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY THERAPY CERTIFICATION Awarded by the International Professional Standards Network (IPSN) Service Skills Australia represents Australia as one of the five founding countries who benchmark educational qualifications and industry standards through the International Professionals Standards Network to improve the mobility and educational levels of skills-based occupations worldwide. Each participating country has mapped their qualifications and industry recognition processes against an agreed benchmark. The purpose of benchmarking is for individuals to have their qualifications and experience recognised by their industry in member countries.
Current member countries are:
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Australia Canada New Zealand Hong Kong Japan
WHO CAN APPLY? Australian Beauty Therapists who meet the IPSN criteria for qualifications and experience in the beauty industry will be able to
apply for certification* that will be industry recognised in other member countries.
ELIGIBILITY To be eligible for IPSN International Beauty Therapy Certification, applicants must provide evidence of: ! An Australian qualification (Certificate IV or Diploma) ! 12 months industry experience ! Maintenance of technical viability through work in a salon or the demonstration or instruction of skills in an educational environment on a regular basis ! Commitment to continuing professional development in maintaining salon-ready skills.
APPLY An application form can be downloaded from the Service Skills Australia Website at www.serviceskills.com.au/internationalprofessional-standards-network.
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*Please note that certification is not linked to any skilled migration program. Holders of this certificate will still need to meet the work and visa requirements of the participating country.
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IPSN invites trained professionals who would like to have their beauty qualifications recognised by IPSN and receive this international certification to contact kbanks@serviceskills.com.au
starperformer 㤵 㜵
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Venus Viva™
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The Genius, new GOLD STANDARD Medical Aesthetic Technology Venus Viva™ offers the perfect solution for the signs of ageing that creep up over time. A sophisticated, all-in-one desktop, it delivers multi-faceted medical aesthetic services; including facial rejuvenation, skin tightening, wrinkle reduction, acne scar treatment and skin texture improvement. Powered by NanoFractional Radio Frequency™ (RF) and one-of-a-kind SmartScan™ technology, Venus Viva™ boasts the largest and most diverse variable treatments in the industry, unique pattern selection technology and superior Radio Frequency depth penetration.
As a completely portable and ergonomically designed system Venus Viva™ includes easy to use handpieces that provide precise and accurate treatments, allowing a comfortable experience for both the patient and operator. With intuitive software, auto-repeat features and pre-programmed and customisable treatment settings, it's never been easier to deliver highly professional, world-leading medical aesthetic treatments in the comfort of your own spa, salon or clinic.
Clinicians will be thrilled to offer patients fast, effective and noninvasive anti-ageing and rejuvenation results to the face, neck and décolleté. Each treatment lasts less than 30 minutes, allowing rapid and powerful outcomes, coupled with a high turnover rate for profitable returns. What's more, downtime is minimal and results are immediately noticeable with greater long-term benefits as time goes by.
Venus Viva™ comes to us from the celebrated Venus Concept company, a revolutionary leader in the Medical Aesthetic industry whose impressive range of products include the award winning Venus Freeze™. Venus Concept treatments have long been a celebrity favourite and have been featured in media as varied as Harpers Bazaar, The Doctors, Cosmopolitan, Vogue, The Real Housewives of Vancouver and Marie Claire.
The FirmFX™ handpiece included with Venus Viva™ is safe for all skin types and operates via NanoFractional Radio Frequency™ and SmartScan™ technology. Its ground-breaking new pin design creates micro-dermal wounds, which speed up the coagulation process compared to other traditional fractional treatments. Venus Viva™ works by delivering energy through the epidermis to the dermis, generating heat and initiating skin change, collagen remodelling and fibroblast stimulation all resulting in enhanced remodelling of the skin tissue.
Venus Viva™ is available exclusively in Australia and New Zealand from The Global Beauty Group For more information call 1300 006 607 to speak with a consultant or visit http://www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au
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other small body parts to smooth skin, wrinkles and fine lines. ㈵
UNBEATABLE MULTIFUNCTIONALITY FirmFX™ harbours impressive multiple pattern options to fit individual treatment needs, a large spot size together with a small pin footprint. Operators of all experience and expertise can easily treat the entire face and neck to reduce wrinkles and fine lines while smoothing skin texture and appearance.
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The included DiamondPolar™ handpiece provides noninvasive skin tightening treatments suitable for all skin types to effectively target the face, neck and hard to reach body areas. It utilises proven (MP) ² technology, combining Multi-Polar RF and Pulsed Magnetic Fields. Boasting no p a i n , n o downtime and no discomfort, the Diamond-Polar™ applicator's unique electrode placement can treat around the eyes, along the jowls and
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Join an elite core of healthcare professionals, scientists and researchers to share knowledge, network, and advance your skills in preventative, anti-ageing and integrative medicine.
This year's conference program is both comprehensive and diverse in its topics. These include:
> > > >
Excitement is mounting as A5M once again is preparing for their annual conference in Melbourne to be held on the 16th and 17the August. The theme this year will be STRESS & AGEING: Taking theory to practice. The event will feature world-renowned experts who will present the very latest research findings on the impact of stress on health and ageing. This event aims to provide solutions not only on internal issues but also on underlying causes that impact and accelerate not just the ageing of the body, but also of the skin. There will also be numerous lectures on skin health and aesthetic and cosmetic medical procedures.
> > > > > > > > > >
WHY ATTEND?
> >
WHY STRESS & AGEING?
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Chronic stress negatively impacts metabolism, the endocrine, immune, cardiovascular and nervous systems, and exacerbates mental-health problems as well as the skin.
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The link between chronic stress and indicators of poor health are well established. Additionally, stress impacts health by modulating the rate of cellular ageing. The burden stress places on individuals, families, workplaces, the Australian economy and the Australian healthcare system is serious. If you are a healthcare practitioner, a dermal or aesthetic therapist or cosmetic nurse this year's A5M Conference promises to deliver new research findings and information that will enable you to gain further insight on how you can improve your treatment outcomes. In order for health practitioners to best fill their role as providing person-centred continuing, comprehensive, and coordinated wholeperson healthcare they need to address the debilitating effects of stress. Health professionals need to be educated in preventing, diagnosing and treating conditions that are exacerbated by high stress levels. The 8th Annual A5M Conference in Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine 2014 will incorporate best practice, evidence-based analysis of accepted markers for disease, implementation of clinical protocols as well as testing and assessing methodologies for early intervention practices.
Effects of Stress on the brain, behaviour and cognition Exercise, nutrition and lifestyle interventions Preventative and Integrative strategies for patient wellbeing Nutritional and hormonal interventions for better cosmetic outcomes Holistic approach to managing stress\ Nutriceuticals and the skin Chronic stress, oxidative stress, metabolic stress and ageing Genetics of skincare Nutriceuticals and the skin Non-invasive rejuvenation of face and body Stem Cell/PRP new research and applications Invasive and minimally invasive procedures Skin-tightening therapies and procedures New frontiers in cosmetic medicines
>
Learn how to deliver optimal aesthetics and internal wellness strategies and help your patients/clients protect their aesthetic investment Advance your knowledge, skills and accreditation through A5M, AustralAsia's leading Preventative, Anti-Ageing & Integrative Medical Education Provider Grow your business through regular A5M Business and Practice updates, which directly improve your bottom line Network with manufacturers and vendors on innovative products and services in Preventative, Anti-ageing & Integrative Health Don't miss the best Networking Opportunities in the field of Preventative, Anti-Ageing & Integrative Medicine.
2014 CONFERENCE KEYNOTE SPEAKERS Dr Andrew Heyman, (US) MD MHSA Dr Heyman is a medical practitioner and international expert in integrative and anti-ageing medicine. He is a recognised expert in natural medicine and has been involved in the field of antiageing and integrative medicine for over two decades. Dr Heyman has extensive experience in nutrition, vitamins, herbology, Chinese medicine and manual therapies. He sits as the National Clinical Chair of the Consortium of Academic Health Centres for Integrative Medicine in the USA, is on the faculty in the Department of Family Medicine at the University of Michigan, and was recently appointed as Program Director for the Department of Integrative and Metabolic Medicine at George Washington University. He is also a faculty member of the Fellowship in Anti-Ageing & Regenerative Medicine (FAARM). Dr. Heyman is also the Team Physician for the winning Le Mans Corvette Racing Team, has been featured on many TV and print
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venues, and is a sought-after speaker internationally on natural and integrative health topics.
Dr James LaValle (US) R Ph, CCN, ND Dr LaValle is an internationally recognised clinical pharmacist, author, board certified clinical nutritionist, and has a doctorate in naturopathy. Author of “Cracking the Metabolic Code” and 20 other books, Dr LaValle has over 18 years’ clinical experience in natural therapies and functional medicine and is Adjunct Professor at the College of Pharmacy, University of Cincinnati. He is a recognised clinical pharmacist, author, educator, industry consultant and clinical practitioner, and pioneer in the field of natural therapeutics. With 27 years experience integrating natural therapies, Dr LaValle is best known for his expertise in natural therapeutics application, drug/nutrient depletion issues, and uncovering the underlying metabolic issues that keep people from feeling healthy and vital. He has written hundreds of articles for a variety of industry journals and publications, and has lectured to healthcare professionals and consumer audiences globally on these topics. Dr LaValle served as adjunct associate professor at Cincinnati College of Pharmacy for over 14 years and currently serves as Adjunct Professor in Metabolic Medicine at the University of South Florida Medical School, and is a faculty member of the Fellowship for Anti-Ageing and Regenerative Medicine Fellowship (FAARM).
PRECONFERENCE WORKSHOPS There will be two pre-conference workshops as follows:
Friday 15 August 2014, 8.30am– 5.30pm This workshop will cover the following:
>
> > > > > > > > > >
The basic science of Platelet Rich Plasma Injections (PRP) & what constitutes effective treatment Where, when & how to use PRP The basic science of stem cells & increasing stem cell activity The cutting edge of the cutting edge Protease inhibitors Discuss the role of exosomes Review telomere science in relation to stem-cells What factors influence cytokine pathways Problems arising from cytokine imbalances Treatment protocols for osteoarthritis, aesthetics, auto-immune disorders The use of supplements in stem-cell therapy & PRP The use of stem-cell therapy & PRP in Aesthetics case studies
LEARNING OBJECTIVES > Allow the practitioner to have a solid background in the basic science of stem cells. > Discuss the pitfalls of various types of cells and realise why certain cells and protocols are utilised. > Acquire a firm background on new cutting edge techniques in stem cell & PRP therapy
> > >
Understand the field of cytokines and how they affect all phases of medicine. Discuss how the cytokine pathways can be manipulated. Acquire knowledge on the use of supplements and how they affect stem cells and their by products.
Dr. Joseph Purita MD, is a pioneer in the use of the laser in orthopaedic surgery. After completing residency in orthopaedic surgery at University of Miami-Jackson Memorial Hospital, Dr. Purita joined the Boca Raton Orthopaedic Group in 1981, practicing arthroscopic and orthopaedic surgery, and Regenerative Medicine. He has lectured extensively throughout the world on the topic of stem cells and Platelet Rich Plasma injections for musculo skeletal conditions. His experience includes several thousand clinical cases. Dr. Purita is an instructor and proctor of surgeons in the use of lasers in arthroscopic and orthopaedic surgery at a variety of area hospitals. Dr. Purita is one of the few orthopaedic surgeons in the county using platelet rich plasma to treat a variety of orthopaedic conditions.
PRE-CONFERENCE WORKSHOP 2 Friday 15 August 2014, 8.30am – 5.30pm This ground breaking program developed by James LaValle, RPh, CCN in conjunction with Andrew Heyman M.D, defines important physiologic interrelationships that mediate health and disease. Emerging science shows that specific processes or systems in the body work in concert to maintain homeostasis. When this balance is disrupted, through factors such as stress, poor diet, environmental exposures, genetic individuality or medication use, these intrinsic homeostatic mechanisms begin to alter and break down. Early disruptions can accumulate over time and build towards a significant shift to disease state processes. The Metabolic Triad system creates a framework to assess and treat patients by understanding these important interrelationship hierarchies, and provides specific treatment recommendations. The Metabolic Triad Training is a breakthrough approach in clinical medicine that serves to organize complex patient presentations into a unified treatment approach.
This not to be missed one day workshop will review the five triads 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Thyroid-Adrenal-Pancreas Gut-Immune-Brain Cardio-Pulmonary-Neurovascular Liver-Lymph-Kidney Sex Hormones
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Please direct all conference enquiries to Conference Secretariat P: 03 9813 0439 E:enquiries@a5m.net W: www.a5m.net
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A5M FULL PAGE AD (APJ MAG) 2014_layout 6/05/14 12:51 PM Page 1
Melbourne, Australia
THE 8TH ANNUAL ANTI-AGEING & AESTHETIC MEDICINE CONFERENCE 2014 Stress & Ageing: Taking Theory to Practice 16 –17 August 2014 ENRICH YOUR AESTHETICS WITH THE LATEST IN ANTI-AGEING APAN 2014 Delegates Special Invitation | Book Now & Save Why Attend? JOIN WORLD LEADERS in the integration of multiple medical streams to learn groundbreaking advances in evidence-based, best-practice protocols for the early detection, prevention and treatment of chronic stress, metabolic disorders, the rate of cellular ageing and premature decline. OPTIMISE individual patient outcomes, to enhance patient satisfaction and your professional practice, with preventative, integrative and anti-ageing medicine. LEARN multi-discipline strategies in nutrition, exercise, lifestyle for better patient outcomes and the latest clinical protocols to diagnose and help balance the debilitating effects of high stress levels. REJUvENATE your current practice with the latest cutting edge technologies and procedures. LEARN hands-on the latest in anti-ageing protocols and aesthetic procedures from respected industry experts. ENERGISE your business with the introduction of new systems. NETWORK with colleagues and establish direct contact with key manufacturers and suppliers.
PRECONFERENCE WORKSHOPS 8.30am – 5.30pm Friday 15 August 2014 Sofitel Melbourne on Collins
www.a5m.net
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“Research into the interaction between psychological stress and oxidative, metabolic stress within cells is yielding biomarkers of ageing” Ergün Sahin 2012
REGISTER TODAY AND SAvE! APAN Delegate Special $800 (normally $900)
Offer expires 31 July 2014
ADD IN A PRECONFERENCE WORKSHOP! 2 Day Conference + Preconference Workshop $1250 (normal price $1500)
Offer expires 31 July 2014
* Prices apply when purchased as a package. Offer expires: 31 July 2014. This offer cannot be used in conjunction with other offers. All prices are GST inclusive and in $AUD. See website for cancellation policy
PAYMENTS ONLINE REGISTRATION: www.a5m.net/events – Enter code APAN14
The Science of Stem Cells & PRP Dr Joseph Purita (US) MD
The Metabolic Triads Dr Andrew Heyman (US) MD, MHSA Dr James LaValle (US) R Ph, CCN, ND
PRECONFERENCE WORKSHOPS Cost: A4M members $550 | Non members $600* Notes, refreshments and lunch included in registration
To As da se y T en on o n ig ht
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advancedtechnology
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THE RISKS AND SAFETY NETS of keeping up with technology By Trevor Neale With a background and qualifications in engineering, Trevor Neale is an expert trainer and educator in light-based technologies and has been involved in the aesthetics industry for over 25 years. In this article he explores the current challenges facing device choices and sheds some light on ways of navigating through potential risks when choosing a new or second-hand device. As business becomes more competitive we are all aware that we need to stay on top of progress in the market as much as possible. If you do not constantly review and update treatments or technologies you will end up getting further and further behind your competitors, for indeed, this is the era of technology, which is now considered a necessary part of standard protocols for advanced results to be achieved. 㤵 㜵
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As clients apply pressures to reduce pricing, or your pricing has not increased in line with operating costs in the past few years, the net profit available to you to maintain a profitable position would be rapidly declining. So is there a way to reduce costs without lowering quality results? Of course one way is to minimise your capital outlays (lease payments) and operating costs with your technology. As many consider implementing this strategy they are often plagued with reservations as they review two avenues that are often thwarted with pitfalls, and for
good reason. These are: 1. Access cheaper products made in Asia 2. Access second-hand systems (typically supplied from the USA) with no back-up or warranty So let's discuss these options. While “Made in China” has sent a shiver down the back of many looking at high-level technology with thoughts focused on the question of possible compromised quality, most of us are aware that many of the quality hi-tech products we do obtain in day-to-day life are also “Made in China” and we do not have a second thought. While it could be said that the manufacturing of Lasers and IPL systems from China was in its infancy five years ago, several lessons have been learnt and the biggest opponents to accepting “Made in China” are the large brand-name companies who are still charging huge margins, which are no longer viable in a tight market, in order to please their shareholders. They are well aware that when “Made in China” becomes acceptable, then their days of huge margins and flying first class will be drawing to a close.
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THE CURRENT STATUS OF MANUFACTURING IN ASIA With over 20 years’ experience in aesthetic technology and direct access to many manufacturers, I am well aware that China is no longer in its infancy and is well on its way to maturity in regard to aesthetic technology.
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However, I still believe there are some barriers that need to be overcome. One of the biggest of these is the language barrier. This has become apparent, more so through the system designs where the Chinese manufacturers are traditionally manufacturing for the Chinese market. It is very competitive and the concept of spending a little extra on higher-quality parts or improved system monitoring is very difficult for them to understand, as their market will not support the greater costs. As labour in China is cheap they find it more costeffective to “send someone out to fix it” if something goes wrong, as the more affordable option to using more expensive parts. Therefore when manufacturing in China, unless you have the ability to fully communicate your requirements in terms of technical specifications and specific changes, then a high standard of end product will not occur. In such instances at best you may be able to indicate which frame you want your system to be supplied in, while the interface, useability, reliability and effectiveness of the device will stay the same as the rest of their product range. Additionally, ongoing communication for support can cause considerable frustration due to misunderstandings on both sides, and the distance to the supplier makes it easy to give up when it all gets too hard. This is not only technically, but for the most part we currently see that the majority of the manufacturers throughout Asia copy technology. Unfortunately, this means that the manufacturers gain little clinical experience given they invest little into research and development, and you may end up being left to fend for yourself in regard to the application and clinical aspects of the technology. Communication also affects your ability to fully assess the supplier. Like any country, including Australia, there are reliable suppliers that are passionate about their products and the industry, and then there are those with different objectives – as a result it can be a difficult task to assess your local suppliers that you can communicate with directly, let alone international suppliers with basic English. This in itself has been one of the biggest reasons why many local distributors and direct purchasers have from time to time had bad experiences.
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and speaks fluent Mandarin. Additionally, his family links in Beijing who are also in the industry provide an audit network to monitor and liaise directly with the manufacturers we use at Australian Aesthetic Devices. While we have been able to eventually achieve the design and manufacture of systems suited for the Australian market, this has still involved many misunderstandings and re-dos during development. Additionally, for clinical support we have to fall back on my many years of experience as a clinical trainer in aesthetic technologies.
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It is important to understand that in regards to technology design, operator and patient safety is the number one issue. Concerns of electro-static interference carry little relevance unless you are using the system on an aircraft during take-off and landing.
As an absolute minimum, considered technologies need to carry a CE certification to ensure they are electrically safe. For TGA, inclusion will be determined by the “Intended Use” of the technology. Where no therapeutic claims are made, in most cases TGA registration will not be required. However, for full verification you will need to refer to the Therapeutic Goods Act.
SECOND-HAND UNITS With regards to second-hand systems, much like buying direct from Asia, there have been many verified stories of despair and frustration regarding the purchase of unseen systems from relatively untouchable international suppliers. While there are many reputable suppliers, distance will always be an issue, and in an industry where competition is high, a lack of experienced support could prove very costly. Additionally, you'll find the greater majority of manufacturers’ representatives locally will not support systems that have not been purchased through them, or one of their previous representatives in Australia. This could leave you
We have all received marketing emails from Asia promising an amazing piece of technology for next to nothing. However, on a visit to a factory promising this you will often find that the system on offer nowhere near meets the promised specifications in the invite. When challenged their justification is often “this is how business is done here”, and while caught out they carried no remorse. During our visit, however, what was very encouraging was that accompanying us was one of their fellow countrymen who was totally appalled and disgusted with their ethics and product. After a few very heated words he turned his back on them and just walked out, refusing to return. To this day I still get follow up emails asking if we would be interested in them manufacturing systems for us. They are very persistent and to the inexperienced very persuasive.
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Apart from having 20 years' experience as a laser and IPL support engineer and clinical trainer, I am fortunate that my business partner (while being an Australian citizen) is of Chinese decent
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QUALITY ASSURED DEVICES MADE TO AUSTRALIAN STANDARDS
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Australian Aesthetic Devices (AAD) have developed some amazing state-of-the art devices that are made in China to strict, quality assured Australian standards so that you have peace of mind.
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Zi – The IPL designed for Australia from the ground up will provide you with: ! Super-fast hair removal ! Intelligent fault monitoring ! Experienced local support
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Xen – Powerful Intense LED Light Therapy with new COB technologies. These devices will deliver high quality results at an affordable price. Private Labelling is also available. We can provide a partnership with seamless communication with Australian experience, passion and support. This partnership will bring you a confident and stress-free pathway to your quality aesthetic IPL and LED devices.
Phone Trevor Neale now for further details 1300 858 711 Mob: 0421 511 681
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relying on support well over 10,000 kms away, whose time zone means that they are available from midnight through to 9am. This can pose a great challenge when a malfunction occurs. As a business we have reviewed the option of supplying second-hand technologies sourced from the USA. While in many cases this has offered access to some very cheap brand-name technologies, we have considered that to support technically and clinically, direct access to the manufacturer is paramount. Additionally, our solicitor who reviewed this business model indicated that the liability of internationally sourced second-hand technology virtually indemnified the manufacturer, given the massive barrier to liability an international border provides to the sale of used items. As a result, equipment liability would totally rest with us, while treatment liability would be the sole responsibility of the purchaser, as the technology is supplied with no treatment or use indications whether therapeutic or not. We therefore guarantee operation only. Unless otherwise stated, we take no responsibility for what you use it for.
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With any situation where items are cheaper, additional consideration needs to be given, especially when there is 1000s of kms and international borders to shield a supplier. In either situation, both technical, and, more so, clinical support become an issue, dramatically increasing the risk of liability due to treatment complications that can well outweigh loss due to equipment failure. From my point of view it's a gamble where you should only invest what you are prepared to lose, and only the experienced should consider taking this on. It is not all bad new as local suppliers are evolving in order to support the industry and provide secure pathways to access technologies at what should be considered realistic prices within the Australian market. Many local suppliers have spent time in Asia to assess the technology and the companies supporting them. At Australian Aesthetic Devices (www.aestheticdevices.com.au) we have created a partnership with no barriers to communication with the manufacturers and an awareness of who they are, alongside massive Australian experience and passion in the technology, clinical outcomes, reliability and safety. We consider that the key to minimising risk is to work with a qualified and experienced local expert. With regards to second-hand devices, the solution is to access local technology. Premetec through their website www.premetec.com.au offer an opportunity for locals to list their surplus systems for sale. This allows you the option to visit to assess the technology yourself or have the manufacturers' tech support team assess the unit. It also allows you to access the full support and guidance from the local manufacturer's representatives. Please note that in some cases the manufacturers will charge a re-registration fee for this service. The industry, however, needs to be aware that security provided by local experts does come at a cost, and while non-prohibitive, the price point of technologies in Australia will carry a slightly higher price than that in China. In most cases the end price in reduced risk and increased familiarity in the technologies provided will assist the purchaser in passionately and confidently selling the treatments, increasing income and improving treatment results leading to overall profitability and minimal stress. Be wary of placing an international border between you and your supplier. Local support carries much greater value than just access to parts. Confidence and passion will bring enjoyment and may make your business a success, whereas concern and stress will cost you more than a business.
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Medispa management gets a makeover. AACDS now offers the Diploma of Management - Medispa Practice. This qualification is a unique addition to the Australian beauty and cosmetic medical industry. Developed in close consultation with industry professionals, it focuses on the provision of dermal therapies and cosmetic medical services in a medispa, dermal therapy clinic or cosmetic medical practice. This online course is ideal for those working in clinics offering cosmetic medical and dermal therapy treatments, who wish to strengthen their management capabilities and the businessâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; profitability. So too for those planning to introduce these services into their business model, or anyone aspiring to manage a medispa. This Government-accredited qualification is fully-covered by VET Fee-Help.
aacds.edu.au | T 08 9328 6760
2362 AACDS Medispa AD AW.indd 1
3/03/14 9:54 PM
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MERLOT EXFOLIATING PUREE D'vine “Skin Care from the Vine” – a natural, yet sophisticated, results-driven spa range – is especially for clients who want results yesterday!
Merlot Exfoliating Puree is a unique, 100% natural, anti-oxidant rich, cherry enzyme exfoliant (which gives it a delicious, almost edible aroma). Containing no granules, this exfoliant is applied in a thin layer and left on the skin for 2-10 mins, depending on conditions being treated, then removed with cool towels, revealing a smoother, brighter, more radiant complexion.
Merlot Exfoliating Puree is also rich in lycopene, a powerful antioxidant, which may also help to strengthen the skin by inhibiting enzymes that breakdown collagen. It is also rich in lactic acid for gentle, effective exfoliation and hydration. The addition of 2% Salicylic Acid helps to deeply exfoliate the skin inside the pore, as it is an oil-soluble acid. Salicylic Acid also helps to reduce inflammation, making Merlot Exfoliating Puree suitable for even sensitive skins and active acne.
Merlot Exfoliating Puree contains both Red and White Wine extracts, which act as natural preservatives, eliminating the need for artificial preservatives and parabens. Red wine helps to improve arterial circulation, aiding in the detoxification of skin tissues, brightening the complexion and leaving the skin with a beautiful glow from the very first
treatment. Fermented White Wines contain natural sugars to further enhance the exfoliating properties of the Merlot Puree. Resveratrol (or “reverse it all”, as we like to call it), is one of the most potent antioxidants, and works on two levels – first, by scavenging existing free-radicals and second, by preventing their formation. In other studies Resveratrol has been observed to inhibit UVBinduced oxidative stress and may help to prevent UVA damage and abnormal cellular proliferation. It is also anti-viral, anti-fungal and antibacterial. Unique to the D'vine brand is the use of the entire grape – grape seed, grape pulp, grape skin, resveratrol, vine extracts and fermented wines. All of these ingredients are rich in polyphenols and flavonoids that help strengthen capillaries, detoxify the skin, reduce lipid peroxidation and improve skin hydration. Available in retail strength and a professional triplestrength formulation. Merlot Exfoliating Puree is the perfect exfoliant for ageing, acne, pigmentation, suitable for any skin that needs detoxification, anti-ageing and brightening. D'vine Skin Care is distributed in Australia by Dynamic Skin Solutions and sold only to qualified beauty therapists, dermal clinicians, nurses and doctors. You will not find D'vine in Department Stores or on online discount sites. D'vine is a boutique brand, offering superior and unique product formulations to set your Spa apart from the rest!
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To experience the D'vine difference Contact: 02 9525 8368 or info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au
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APJ 64
SYDNEY
BEAUTY&DERMAL
INSTITUTE
A new name for Fuss Beauty College! Over the past few years our industry has seen many changes, advances in dermal therapies, new equipment technology and innovative education and training. Fuss Beauty College has been changing as well, moving in the direction of being the leading training provider in this ever changing Beauty Industry. Ilse Taumberger, RN, Beauty Therapist, Principal and executive trainer in IPL & Laser is excited to announce the transition from Fuss Beauty College to Sydney Beauty & Dermal Institute. After operating Fuss Beauty College for 9 years, Ilse found that the name no longer reflected what the well respected and recognised Sydney based college had evolved into. Initially Fuss Beauty College offered courses in Beauty Therapy and Nail technology to international and local students, however in moving with the time the college has evolved and grown into an institute that specialises in advanced quality education for the Beauty and medical industry. In 2005 there was little education available for anyone wanting to learn about the use of lasers and pulsed light systems. Ilse was passionate about passing on her knowledge and experience so decided to purchase the RTO Fuss Beauty College and developed accredited courses in Laser and IPL for hair reduction and skin rejuvenation. Ilse, being an internationally recognised expert and one of the pioneers in this industry has trained hundreds of students in the skills of using laser and IPL systems. Since then the course in hair reduction has been adapted into the beauty training package and is now widely offered in the industry. Ilse has further accredited a Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies which comprises skin rejuvenation and laser tattoo removal. Ilse and her team of motivated educators are continually striving to deliver the highest standards when it comes to post graduate education, offering advanced training not only to newcomers in the industry but particularly focusing on beauty therapists who want to expand their careers into the SYDNEY field of Dermal Therapy, Laser Tattoo Removal, BEAUTY&DERMAL INSTITUTE Cosmetic tattooing, Nail technology and of course all forms Laser and Light based therapies. Sydney Beauty & Dermal Institute is constantly developing new courses as the industry evolves to ensure all our students leave us with the most HAIR REDUCTION • SKIN REJUVENATION current and up to date information and skills our ADVANCED TECHNIQUES FOR industry demands. PIGMENTATION USING QS TECHNOLOGY We strive to exceed our student’ s expectations, SKIN PEELS • MICROERMABRASION • most students return again and again to complete MICRO SKIN NEEDLING • COSMETIC TATTOO further studies with us, this is a great indication that Non accredited courses to Graduate Certificate level we are already well on the way to being the leading providers in Beauty and Dermal therapy.
EXPERTS IN POST GRADUATE EDUCATION
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The Destruction of Collagen By Gay Wardle We talk a lot about collagen in a clinic environment, at training and to our clients, but do we actually know what collagen is? We know that it is a protein and we know that it is stimulated by inflammation and that it is present throughout our body, but do we really understand what it is? In this article Gay will explain collagen from a cellular biology point of view and trusts that it will help you better understand the factors that influence its destruction.
WHAT IS COLLAGEN?
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The word collagen is derived from the Greek word kolla that means glue. Initially it was used to describe that constituent of connective tissue that gives us gelatine when it is boiling. Collagen is a fibrous protein that is a major component of several connective tissues, such as skin, tendons, ligaments, cartilage, bone, teeth blood and basement membranes. It is the most abundant protein in our body, making up to 35% of protein in the body. Collagen is a structure of amino acids, with glycine and proline being principal components. These two structures are precursors to collagen, which are known as pro-collagen. One of our powerful antioxidants, Vitamin C, has a very important role in the synthesis of
pro-collagen. By understanding that pro-collagen precedes the production of collagen we need to embrace the importance of the role Vitamin C has in the production of collagen. So let's take a closer look at its composition. There are approximately 34 genes involved in the formation of collagen. Every one of these genes is coded for a specific mRNA sequence. The formation of a particular alpha peptide turns on the genes that begin the collagen synthesis. The formation of pre-propeptide occurs when the mRNA leaves the nucleus and enters the cytoplasm where it is linked with the ribosome. This is where the translation occurs. This is known as signal sequence, which is responsible for directing the pre-pro-peptide into the endoplasmic reticulum. In the endoplasmic reticulum the post-translation process occurs. The protein is now known as pre-procollagen. A triple helix known as pro-collagen is formed before being transported to the golgi apparatus. Once again, we need vitamin C as a cofactor as it is involved in the enzymatic step that involves the production of hydroxyproline and hydroxylysine. This process creates the cross-linking of alpha peptides.
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There is one last post-translation that occurs in the golgi apparatus before the pro-collagen is packaged for destination into extracellular space. Oligosaccharides are added to the pro-collagen to help with
APJ 66
formation of tropo-collagen when it is then transported outside the cell into extra-cellular space.
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Once this protein is transferred into extra-cellular space collagen peptidases (which is an enzyme) refine this pro-collagen molecule and transform it into tropocollagen. The enzyme Lysyoxidase creates the final step in the collagen synthesis pathway, where it creates aldehyde groups. We now have our collagen fibrils that form collagen fibres. These collagen fibres attach themselves to cell membranes.
FIVE DIFFERENT TYPES OF COLLAGEN As already mentioned, we have many forms of collagen in our body, although the five most common forms of collagen are: ! Collagen I – found in skin, tendon, vascular ligature, organs and
Throughout the four phases of wound repair collagen performs the following:
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Blood platelets interact with the collagen to make a hemostatic plug Collagen fibres guide fibroblast cells to migrate along the connective tissue matrix In the presence of certain neutral salt molecules it can act as a nucleating agent causing formation of fibrillar structures. Attract Fibrogenic cells, which aid in healing
FIBROBLAST CELL
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This cell like all our cells is just so amazing. It is one of the earliest embryonic cells to differentiate and it plays a very important role in the formation of the skeletal system, the distribution of nerve fibres, the location of muscle cells as well as the organisation of the skin. Don't you love this cell already!
bone
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Collagen II – cartilage Collagen III – reticular layer and found alongside collagen type I Collagen IV – forms basal lamina, the epidermal/dermal junction Collagen V – Cell Surfaces, hair and placenta
WHAT DOES COLLAGEN DO? Collagen is the protein that has a huge significant role in the structure of the skin in how the skin ages and how it maintains the healthy appearance. Collagen benefits every stage of wound repair. It is essential in the fight against bacteria. It is a natural wound dressing, and because of its natural ability to fight infection helps to keep the wound sterile.
These cells are large, flat cells that are found in abundance in connective tissue. Their main function is to maintain the structural integrity of connective tissues by continuously secreting precursors of extracellular matrix. These amazing little cells produce collagen, glycosaminoglycans (70% of which are hyaluronic acid, elastin, glycoproteins and cytokines). If we have non-productive fibroblast cells we will have very poor wound repair and a skin that ages beyond its years. When we look at the structure of what a fibroblast cell delivers, you must understand that the fibroblast cell needs an enormous amount of amino acids to be able to produce the amount of protein that it does. There is no point in delivering treatments to stimulate fibroblast
Advance your knowledge and education to a higher level. MDA is now offering Post-Graduate courses to empower you for greater treatment results and business growth.
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With the advances in new equipment and skincare technology, heightened awareness by consumers and the collaboration between professional aesthetics and medical and anti-ageing practices there is now the need for education and specialised Post-Graduate training to support and deliver higher levels of expertise and advanced results.
Gay Wardle is without question today's leading and most influential educator in Australia. Winner of over 12 industry and business awards, she has a strong understanding of the aesthetics industry and the elements that are necessary for a successful salon or aesthetic practice.
Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS PROGRAM in 2011 to equip and empower you to make the transition with greater confidence into the realm of advanced treatment protocols for greater treatment outcomes.
Constantly investing in her own education and knowledge, she is not only passionate about training, but has a Bachelor's qualification with Victoria University.
MASTERCLASSES IN DERMAL TRAINING INCLUDE: ! One-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Two-day Insight into Skin Evaluation ! Three-day Journey to Understand and Empower your Knowledge in Advanced Skin Evaluation ! Skin Preparation Programs to Optimise Results from IPL, Needling and Microdermabrasion ! Treatments to Target Pigmentation ! Understanding Ageing in the Skin and Treatments for Ageing Skin
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PHONE US FOR TRAINING DATES NEAR YOU ㈵
ENROL TODAY
Training Available in most States. For further details and to book
Visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au | Email: gay@m-da.com.au or info@masterdermalacademy.com.au
Ph: 0418 708 455
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formerly Advanced Aesthetics
Masters Dermal Academy
This enzyme is valuable in the medical world for treating diseases such as rheumatoid arthritis, metastasis, herniated disk, Dupuytren`s contracture and metastasis (the development of secondary malignant growths at a distance from a primary site of cancer). It has also been very effective in the treatment of skin burns and aiding in healing ulcers. Collagenase is an enzyme that is also involved in wound repair.
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As valuable as this enzyme is in the medical world, it is an enzyme that also can cause premature ageing to the skin. We know that collagen is the major component of extra-cellular matrix (ECM), so if there are any alterations to collagen metabolism this also may potentially influence cell metabolism and motility. Extra-cellular collagenases initiate the breakdown of collagen.
UV radiation stimulates synthesis of interstitial collagenase in the skin, which gives a devastating result to collagen degradation where the enzyme collagenase degrades the protein collagen. There have been studies showing that with increased doses of UV radiation collagenase has been detected in fibroblast cells. The data collected suggested that direct stimulation of collagenase synthesis by human skin fibroblast by UV radiation contributes to the connective tissue damage induced by UV radiation, leading to photo-ageing. So as wonderful as collagenase is in medical science it has a devastating effect in the aesthetics world. As aesthetic therapists the more you study and understand the skin's structure and its physiology the better you will appreciate the importance of your services and effective ways to achieve better results. I, for one, love studying the structure and function of the skin not just for the benefit of my treatments, but also imparting my knowledge to others within the industry who are seeking to increase their understanding of the skin. production if the cell is starved of amino acids. Fall in love with these amazing cells, because they will keep your skin young and healthy.
ENZYMES
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Enzymes are catalysts that accelerate the metabolic reactions from the digestion of food to the synthesis of DNA. Most of these catalysts consist of protein molecules that work by either lowering the activation of energy or increasing the rate of the reaction. When an enzyme lowers the activation energy of a chemical reaction it does so by decreasing the randomness of the collisions between molecules. A reaction occurs when the enzymes bring substrates together in the correct orientation. For example, the substrates will make contact with an active site on the surface of an enzyme molecule that forms a compound (enzyme-substrate complex). Transformation of the substrate molecules then takes place where they are rearranged by existing atoms that break down the substrate molecule. Once this process is completed the enzyme is left unchanged so that it can then go on to catalyse the same reaction on a new substrate. Most enzymes tend to be much larger than the molecules that they are acting on, although while a reaction that enzymes carry out is very specific they can react in many different ways. You will find that the names of enzymes normally end with the same suffix, which is “ase”, for instance collagenase. The type of chemical reaction a catalyst has will determine which category they will fall into. For instance, dehydrogenases remove hydrogen, oxidases add oxygen, anhydrases remove water, lipases break down triglycerides and proteases break down protein.
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COLLAGENASES
Collagenases are enzymes that break the peptide bonds in collagen.
Gay Wardle is a multi-award winner as a salon owner. She holds numerous qualifications in aesthetics and also a Bachelor of Health Science (Dermal Therapies). Gay is also a highly experienced trainer and educator and delivers post-graduate advanced skin analysis training through the Masters of Dermal Academy. If you would like to book to train with Gay visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au or email gay@mda.com.au
REFERENCES Bugg, T.D., (2001). The development of mechanistic enzymology in the 20th century. Hulmes, D.J & Miller, A. (1979). Quasi-hezogonal molecular parcking in collagen fibrils Fraser, R.D., MacRae, T.P. & Suzuki, E. (1979). Chain conformation in the collagen molecule Jesior, J.C., Miller, A. & Berthet-Colominas, C., (1980). Crystalline threedimensional packing is general characteristic of type 1 collagen fibrils Martin, R.B., (1998). Free energies and equilibria of peptide bond hydrolysis and formation Pauling, L., (1960). The nature of the chemical bond Subramanian, E., (2001). Nature Structural & Molecular Biology Okuyama, K., (1981). Crystal and molecular structure of a collagen-like polypeptide Petersen, M.J., Hansen, C., (1992). Ultraviolet A irradiation stimulates collagenase production in cultured human fibroblasts.
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APJ 68
Introducing... new products, superior quality and support
M E D I C A L & B E A UTY
Developing & supplying quality you can trust.
Wear Nothing Medical & Beauty is merging our distribution business (Wear Nothing) & our equipment business (Spectrum) to create Spectrum Science & Beauty. These changes will help us continue our mission to be the leading aesthetic & medical grade equipment supplier in Australia.
We would like to introduce you to our brand new product range from Dana who we believe are the leading manufacturers in the world: EXPLORE FRACTIONAL RF
MAGNUM Q-SW ND:YAG LASER
S-CO2 FRACTIONAL CO2 LASER
Our new Dana partnership will help us continually improve our Australian designed Spectrum range, which will translate into better quality and service: SMOOTH FRACTIONAL RF
2000X IPL
QS ND:YAG LASER TATTOO REMOVAL
We also sell Australia’s favourite LED , body contouring and microdermabrasion machines. • 3 Year Warranties • 24/7 Support • Marketing/Pricing support
• After Sales Service • Guaranteed Trade In • Expert Training
www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au email: sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au • phone: 07 5440 5353
medicalconference
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New advances in Cosmetic Medicine As $1 billion Australian cosmetic medical specialties continue to transform eager consumers, there's a renewed emphasis on a healthy mind and healthy body as the starting point for beauty.
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New techniques and treatments to cheat time and improve looks and youthful ness are now embracing internal psychological and health considerations as treatment perimeters that are now taking a broader, more universal perspective. Covering these topics through an amazing conference program, Cosmetex this year brought together hundreds of cosmetic and plastic surgeons, dermatologists, cosmetic physicians, nurses and other cosmetic health practitioners and industry suppliers. This event, which is hosted by Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery (ACCS), was staged this year on the Gold Coast from 1st May until Saturday 3rd May. The extensive conference program covered a diverse range of topics with key topics and speakers from around the world. Dr Steven
Dayan, facial Plastic Surgeon from the US, presented both concepts of how beauty is perceived and determined as well as new techniques in neurotoxins and fillers. Dr Christopher Zachary, Dermatologist and Laser Cosmetic Surgeon, also from the US, covered body contouring and how fractional devices are cornering the market. Dr Arthur Swift, Plastic Surgeon from Canada, who was also a speaker last year, presented some of his amazing techniques to achieve harmony and balance rather than noticeable enhancement (you will find further information on his concepts on pages 2830. Dr Godfrey Town, who is internationally known for his extensive knowledge and work with lasers, presented some compelling information on new advances in home-use devices, current regulations and how the cosmetic medical and aesthetics industry should address this issue. I will be presenting an in-depth article in the next issue of APJ as space did not permit me to include this report in this issue. Dr Mark Nestor, Dermatologist and Laser Cosmetic Surgeon, also from the US,
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addressed the issue of new fillers for volumetric enhancement.
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I was also very impressed with Dr Julie Bradford's lecture on Hormones and how they influence skin health. I will also be presenting her lecture in the next issue of APJ.
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It was wonderful to catch up with numerous old and new friends and to have the privilege to interview some of the world's leading experts in cosmetic medicine.
With an event of this size it is impossible to attend all the lectures, however, for the benefit of our readers here are some of my overall observations: ! Niche Cosmeceutical Product Ranges: On the exhibition front
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I observed several small, but niche skincare brands emerging that were characteristically “cosmeceutical formulions” through the standard key ingredients – various forms of vitamin A, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, peptide-rich formulations and epidermal growth factors to support advanced skin procedures. There was a definite trend towards small, but niche ranges, based on well-known scientifically proven ingredients. These were quite prolific at the conference. New Fillers: New formulations that can be used in different ways with varying results are definitely on the rise, giving practitioners greater options on what they can achieve. I saw some amazing reshaping of crooked noses through injectibles, with the final work resembling improvements that would previously only be possible through rhinoplasty surgery. New Techniques: There were some amazing new techniques that were replacing outdated approaches and were able to deliver more natural outcomes. As the use of injectibles is constantly evolving so also are techniques evolving to achieve more subtle and better results. Injectibles are definitely becoming a specialty and practitioners will need to constantly update their skills and knowledge. Harmony Replacing Symmetry: The definition of attractiveness and beauty is slowly being redefined with different rules. There were various presenters such as Dr Dayan and Dr Swift who had their own theories on how the whole concept of beauty is now perceived to include subjective considerations of the individual's confidence levels as being also of importance. Techniques are becoming a lot more subtle, with the aim of achieving changes that are more subliminally perceived rather than making an obvious visual impact. In essence, what was considered cosmetic enhancements is now achieved through subtle techniques that are based on rebalancing curves and gentle volume rather than changes that may alter the person's original appearance.
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Dysmorphic Disorders: As obsession with the perfect face and body is becoming a growing phenomenon, psychiatrist Professor David Castle in his opening address discussed some startling information on the growing incidents of dysmorphic disorders – the condition that results in a distorted view of one's appearance, and warned practitioners to be mindful of such conditions and ways to address these concerns. Unnatural Outcomes: If an outcome looks unnatural in even the slightest, it will inadvertently tip off the subconscious mind of the unknowing observer that one is not youthful or healthy – the exact opposite message that is intended to be sent, according to Dr Dayan, who is a strong advocate of the minimalistic approach to
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APJ 71
that will be within the scope of aestheticians with the appropriate qualifications and training. However, it is most important that for such effective collaborative relationships to be forged between doctors and aestheticians, a more scientific approach will be paramount in how aestheticians communicate and how they view their work. The future promises some very exciting developments, but they will only benefit those who are prepared to continue to grow their knowledge and training. Whether physicians or aesthetic therapists, their commitment to ongoing learning will determine their success.
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SOME INTERESTING FACTS
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Responses to the College's 2013 procedural census show some practices growing by 15% per cent year on year. Total annual expenditure on cosmetic surgical and medical and related procedures and treatments in Australia is estimated to be $1 billion. Australians annually consume more than $350 million worth of wrinkle-reduction procedures with botulinum toxin. There are approximately 8,000 breast augmentation surgeries performed each year in Australia and about 30,000 liposuction procedures.
TOP FIVE COSMETIC PROCEDURES IN AUSTRALIA: appearance enhancement – the new direction in appearance enhancement. 㤵 㜵
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IN CONCLUSION There is no doubt that consumer demands for cosmetic procedures is not about to slow down and this will continue to boost industry growth. As the trend for natural outcomes become more in vogue so the lines between aesthetics and injectibles will start to blur. Understanding how these subtle shifts are achieved through various techniques and the new aims of treatment outcomes can give the aesthetic practitioner a better working relationship with physicians. There is no doubt that new technologies will allow similar outcomes
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Anti-wrinkle injections Fillers Laser and IPL Breast augmentation and reduction Liposuction
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For additional information about the ACCS please visit: http://www.accs.org.au/
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DERMIS – Much more than a bit of skin By Terry Everitt In the past issue of APJ Terry Everitt described some of the biochemical pathways of the epidermis, and in particular the stratum corneum. Here he explores a little of the biochemistry of the dermis, and while it may appear confusing, it is really only 'scraping the surface' of available knowledge. In the understanding of what happens in the pathways of the skin, we can better understand how we can help the skin. Terry will explore in the next journal issue what specifically is available to treat the various biochemical pathways. We are incredibly delighted that Terry has agreed to present at both the Sydney and Tasmanian APAN conferences on how we can modify the skin using current biochemical knowledge, and specifically what ingredients work to repair and maintain skin health, but more importantly getting the correct chemical structure and dosage for results based on scientific knowledge, not marketing rhetoric. If you somehow have not had the opportunity to hear him speak, then we urge you to hear him at APAN's conferences – Sydney, Monday 25th August and Hobart, Tasmania on Sunday, 12th October 2014. While the visible signs of ageing show on the outer layers of the stratum corneum, the actual causative factors driving and providing these signs are much deeper. It is the impairment of the adaptive static and dynamic homeostasis mechanisms that provide the visible signs of the intrinsic ageing and/or extrinsic damage of not only the epidermis, yet perhaps more importantly, the dermis.
STRUCTURE In simplistic terms, the dermis structurally has two divisions; the papillary and reticular.
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The papillary dermis attaches to the epidermis in 'waves' of fingerlike projections termed dermal papillae and rete ridges. These make the demo-epidermal junction, which with age and extrinsic damage flattens, resulting in less resistance to shearing forces and increased vulnerability to insult, due in part to the reduced cellular nutrient supply. The upper papillary dermis is primarily made of a mesh like scaffold of collagen type III above the larger volumed reticular dermis consisting of thicker (2000-15000 nm) bundles of collagen type I fibres. These are (in good skin health) arranged parallel to the surface along with the elastic fibres of elastin, providing structure, elasticity
and suppleness of the dermal components. The complex array of biochemistry occurring within the various elements of the dermis provide rich targets for damage that result in decreased structural and functional ability proving the signs of the ageing process.
FIBROBLAST The most important cell of the dermis is the fibroblast. These are somewhat flat, elongated connective tissue cells responsible for tissue regeneration and synthesis of the structural elements; collagen, elastin and the surrounding substances that make the so called 'dermal matrix' or 'ground substance'. Amazingly there is a symbiotic relationship as the fibroblast actually works via tension of the healthy collagen matrix surrounding the cell. As collagen decreases, reducing the tension on the cells, so does the production of collagen from the fibroblast, creating a crazy cycle that continues going downhill.
GLYCOSAMINOGLYCANS The volume of the reticular dermis is primarily made of different polysaccharides termed glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). Many are linked to protein and thus termed proteoglycans. Major GAGs you are aware of are hyaluronidates, chondroitin-4sulfate, dermatan sulphate and heparin sulphate.
HYALURONIC ACID Hyaluronic acid or hyaluronan is well-known for its ability to keep water attached to itself. One gram of hyaluronan retains some 20006000 grams of water, which keeps the reticular dermis hydrated and supple and voluminous. Hyaluronan is a long repeating disaccharide (of glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine), thus becoming the polysaccharide as it is generally known as. (Mono – one; dia – two; tri– three; poly – many). Hyaluronan has many functions, mostly as a regulator of water balance and osmotic pressure; helping ion flow and as a lubricant. We know it has major functions in wound healing. As mentioned, Hyaluronan is the most well-known of the constituent macromolecules that comprise the extra cellar matrix (ECM) of the reticular dermis. Most are glycojugates: that is they are glycol (sugar) attached to another molecule, making such glycojugates as glycosaminoglycans, glycoproteins and proteoglycans. Each of these macro groups have many individual components such as decorin, fibronectrin, and laminin.
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Most people talk about collagen as if there is only one 'collagen' without making any differentiation. It is important to note there are at least 19 different subtypes of collagen. In fact what we think of collagen is made of different strands and types of collagen. In the dermis there appears to be type V as one strand and linking together with type I and type III (type I being almost 70% of the these) to make the helix structure of formed collagen we are familiar with.
Sebaceous and eccrine glands in particular decrease, providing less sebum and water for temperature control. This alone provides for decreased moisture content (lack of sebum can increase water loss – so termed Trans Epidermal Water Loss [TEWL]) resulting in drier skin. Associated with less water loss as sweat, increases heat inhibition and regulation. Aged skin is less able to detect heat or deal with it, resulting in an increased number of heatstroke events. Be aware of this when treating older skin – they will not be able to deal with heat as does a younger skin.
Collagen type I is primarily in the papillary dermis (85-90%), with type II (8-11%) primarily in the reticular dermis. Type IV is found in the basement membrane, type VI as a 'microfibrillar' and type VII at the dermoepidermal junction, and a collection of Types XII, XIII and XIV in the reticular dermis.
Complicated by decreased hormones and neuron activity provides a dry, coarse skin that presents as many individual skin syndromes and dermatitis.
COLLAGEN
They are crystalline rodlike lines of some 1200 amino acids approx. 300 nm long and 0.3-3 nm in diameter. The main function of collagen is structural, and not elasticity (as many think). It provides adhesion to the epidermis and 'bulk' to the reticular dermis. There is a constant breakdown of collagen due to the enzyme collagenase. The constant battle between the anabolism of hydroxyproline that forms procollagen and catabolism of collagenase determines the amount of collagen made and destroyed. Hydroxyproline is dependent on the enzyme prolylhydroxlase. The main reason ascorbic acid is so important for skin health is that it is used to produce prolylhydroxlase. Vitamin C does not make collagen itself as is usually stated; however, it is important for the precursors of collagen.
ELASTIN These fibres provide the stretch and elasticity of the amorphous dermis. Elastin is composed of two unusual amino acids – desmosine and isodesmosine, along with non-polar amino acids alanine, proline, phenylalanine, leucine, valine and glycine. Together they form two long strands that coil together (1000-3000nm diameter and of a molecular weight of some 72,000 D). Much less elastin (0.5-2%) than collagen (70-80%) make up the dry weight of the dermis. 㤵 㜵
It seems an ongoing beauty college myth that if you pinch the skin on the back of the hand (or worse the face) you will get an indication of the collagen present by how fast the skin recoils. At best it gives an indication of the amount of elastin and GAGs, not collagen, which is present.
HOW WE AGE IN THE DERMIS ㈵
Microvascular of the dermis decreases approx. 40% of original capacity, which influences slow repair, skin colour and overall function.
Dermal atrophy results form a slowing of dermal matrix regeneration collagen and elastin breaks down faster than being manufactured and crosslinking occurs, which further reduces the ability of collagen and elastin to perform. In turn this reduces the structural integrity and elasticity of the dermis and response to wounding. We have known for some time how ultraviolet light ages the skin and in particular the dermis. It is UVA 1 (300-320 nm) that activates 'Activator Protein-1 (AP-1). Now, AP-1 is composed of two proteins, Jun and Fos, both transcription factors (that is they increase expressions of specific genes). In this case it increases collagenase while also having some effect on decreasing formation of procollagen (Fisher et al 1997). Two years later, the (almost) same research group showed how retinoid helped prevent such damage by inhibiting the increased expression of the Jun protein, thereby preventing AP-1 from increasing collagenase (Wang et al 1997).
GLYCATION BAD – GLYCOSYLATION GOOD This has been a buzzword for a while now and simplistically is caused by the linking of sugars with proteins, and this happens throughout the body, not only in the dermis. This forms advanced glycation end products (commonly shortened, appropriately, to AGEs), which cause protein fibres to become stiff and malformed. The human body does not recognise AGEs as normal, and will produce antibodies that cause inflammation in the skin. Don't confuse glycation with glycosylation, which a good thing where sugar and protein join with an enzymatic action (hyaluronic acid or hyaluron is a glycoprotein).
Glycation is essentially the same thing without the enzyme action. Chemically speaking, glycation is a type of Mallard reaction. Through a number of chemical steps, the sugar and amino acid fuse, dehydrates, degradation occurs and finally the molecule polymerises. That is to say it hardens and becomes stiff with lack of functionality. Sorry to the chemically minded as you know I have gone through a solid three months of chemistry (remember Schiff bases, Amadori
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product, Strecker reaction) in one sentence. It is important to remember that glycation is not only happening in the dermis – it is apparent this is involved in a number of medical conditions such as diabetes and low-density lipoprotein oxidation. This process is happening throughout the body, wherever sugar and protein can meet. While not totally preventable, there are a number of methods to slow down the glycation process.
REACTIVE OXYGEN SPECIES If there is one thing that causes more damage to the dermis than anything else, it is Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS). ROS includes the most damaging of all 'free radicals' – superoxide and hydroxyl radicals, which in turn produce hydrogen peroxide and singlet oxygen. Hydrogen peroxide by itself is not too much of a problem, however, it reacts swiftly and strongly with transition metals (such as iron and copper), which converts (via Fenton some reaction signalling pathways) to become a very damaging hydroxyl radical. Of the many cells and cellular organelles, none is hit the hardest by ROS than the very place that makes cellular energy – the mitochondria. While the respiratory process of the mitochondria does produce free radicals of its own, it is the 'oversupply' of ROS that causes the oxidative stress and the resulting damage. However, it must be said that some ROS is a good thing and in fact plays an essential role in
Internal external
Damage
Oxidative damage
DNA mutations (changes to gene structure) Signal Transductions (changes to gene activity) Protein alteration (structural and functional)
Homeostatic impairment
Outcome
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adapted from Callagham & Wilhelm (2008)
Reactive oxygen species in the mitochondria primarily affect the mitochondrial DNA (mDeoxyriboNucleic Acid). The mDNA consists of up to 10 copies of double-stranded DNA, comprising of 16,559 base pairs. Just from this information, you can imagine the damage with so many individual targets. Basically the damage causes post mitotics (new cells) from regeneration of new mitochondria, reducing the amount of ATP and leading to cell death, if not mutation. This is the basis of the free radical theory of ageing first proposed by Denham Harman in the 1950s. Since that time of course, much knowledge has been gained regarding a lot of other free radicals and how they form and, conversely, what can be done to emolliate them.
MATRIX METALLOPROTEINASE While there are many individual components that cause destruction of dermal tissue, there is none more damaging than a group of enzymes called matrix metalloproteinase (MMP). While it was thought that UV caused an increase in collagen destruction, the work of Fisher, Datta and Talwar (1996) showed conclusively how this happened in two ways. UV radiation increased activation of AP-1 (Activator Protein -1) previously mentioned above, which has immense power of up regulating MMP 1 (collagenase), MMP 3 (stromelsin) and MMP 9 (gelantase), while simultaneously decreasing or inhibiting a host of factors, perhaps the most important being transforming growth factor (TGF)- beta. MMP 2 (elastinase) happily chews away at the dermal elastin. The other MMPs actions are not totally understood at present. Sadly, the natural inhibitor of MMPs, called Tissue Inhibitor of Matrix Metalloproteinase (TIMPs), is easily destroyed by UV radiation.
TELOMERES There has been much media of late regarding telomeres and with good reason. Telomeres protect the chromosomes of the cells. They form a 'cap' at the end of the chromosome strand of the DNA. Telomeres consist of 1000 fold tandem repeats of TTAGGG (Thymine, Adenine and Guanine). With each replication of a cell the telomere shortens until there is no telomere left, which allows the DNA strands to unfold. If the cell signalling does not recognise this mutenicity of the cell occurs, rather than causing apoptosis (cell death). The 'antidote' to this telomere shortening is the reverse transcriptase enzyme Telomerase. It seems obvious that we only need to supply telomerase to counter this problem; however, bigger problems arise as it is also known that telomerase is very evident in malignant cell lines, leading to tumorigenesis. It appears too much of a good thing is really a bad thing.
SUBCUTANEOUS LAYER The third major component of the skin is the hypodermis or subcutaneous layer.
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This layer I will not deal with in microstructure. Suffice to say it is composed of adipose tissue made of lipocytes, which are unevenly distributed around the body. The primary function is as an insulator for the inner organs and energy storage. Their thickness is dependent on many events from the sex, health, genetic and nutrition variables of the body.
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CONCLUSION While nowhere near the complete story, I have highlighted a few interactions that show the dermis is a total chemical factory in its own right – understanding what is happening and what can go wrong is not an easy task. In doing so, however, we gain valuable insight in how we may provide interventions targeting specific pathways. I hope this has not totally confused you, but helped you gain a more defined understanding of what might be causing the signs of ageing at the surface. Space does not allow me to continue, and what has not been canvassed in this article is the huge array of chemical messengers that abound in the dermis belonging to different biochemical families such as the integrins and cytokines, let alone the amazingly complex pathways they take in performing their work.
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Additionally I would have liked to explore such things as methylation, demethylation, deacteylation and such other genetic components that are receiving attention in the scientific skincare world – perhaps a subject for another article.
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This article does not allow exploration of a multitude of other factors that contribute to dermal destruction and thus skin ageing. The role of proteasomes and resulting protease; down regulation of T cell activation; Nuclear Factor (NF)-κB pathway of the inflammatory cascade are some of the fascinating biochemistry that you could explore.
REFERENCES
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Callaghan, T. M. Wilhelm, K. P. 2008. “A review of ageing and an examination of clinical methods in the assessment of ageing skin”, International Journal of Cosmetic Science. Vol. 30. pp. 313-322. Fisher, G. J. Wang, Z. Q. Datta, S. C. Varani, J. Kang, S. Voorhees, J. J. 1997. “Pathophysiology of premature skin aging induced by ultraviolet light”, New England Journal of Medicine. Vol. 337. pp. 1419-1428). Fisher, G. J. Datta, S. C. Talwar, H.S. 1997. “Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism”, Nature. Vol. 379, pp. 335339. Wang, Z. Q. Boudjelal, M. Kang, S. Voorhees, J. J. Fisher, G. J. 1999. “Ultraviolet irradiation of human skin causes functional vitamin A deficiency, preventable by all-trans retinoic acid pre-treatment”. Natural Medicine. Vol. 5. pp. 1204-1206. 㤵 㜵
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Terry Everitt is an established master in the art and science of clinical aesthetics both in USA and in Australia. He maintains membership of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, A5M antiageing society, World Society of Interdisciplinary Anti-Aging Medicine, USA-based Society of Dermatological Skin Care Specialist among others. He holds a Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) and a Master's Degree in Education and is recognised both in Australia and the US for both his academic knowledge as well as how this information translates into the practical world.
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Dynamic Skin Solutions P: 02 9525 8368 E: info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au W: www.dynamicskinsolutions.com.au
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SKIN MATRIX – It's Role In Skin Integrity And Actives To Inhibit Its Degeneration By Lynette Rouse
The skin matrix is what would remain if you took the dermis (the fibrous middle layer of the skin) and removed all cells from it. The skin matrix is responsible for structural integrity, mechanical resilience, stability and many other properties of the skin. The degradation of the skin matrix plays an important role in the development of wrinkles and other signs of skin ageing, and this is why understanding its structure and function is important when working on the skin with the objective of minimising the impact or even reversing the signs of ageing. The best-known components of the skin matrix are structural proteins (notably collagen and elastin), which are vital to skin health and youthfulness. However, just like steel beams and rebar are necessary but insufficient for building a skyscraper, structural proteins are necessary but insufficient for a healthy skin matrix. In addition to the framework of structural proteins, the skin matrix also needs appropriate fillers, which provide mechanical cushioning, hold moisture, enhance barrier function and so forth, and an example is hyaluronic acid. 㤵 㜵
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The principal skin matrix fillers are glycans, a class of glucose-based polymers that includes glycosoaminoglycans and proteoglycans. In this article Lynette Rouse explores the role of the skin matrix in skin ageing, what impacts its integrity and the use of actives to inhibit the expression of metalloproteases that contribute to its degeneration. Even if we were to remove all the cells from skin what would be left is the most incredibly dynamic component that can be compared to the engine and chassis of a vehicle, known as The Skin Matrix.
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Responsible for the skin's mechanical properties, including firmness, strength, suppleness and elasticity, the matrix is the framework that holds the skin together and consists mainly of intermeshed polymers such as collagen and elastin. Signs of skin ageing can significantly be contributed to the condition of the skin matrix. It is said that the weaker and less regular the matrix, the more wrinkles, roughness and sag will present. Healthy, youthful skin topically exhibits full and plump appearance, while the underlying functions create balance of synthesis and degradation of the matrix. This includes degraded skin damage or redundant matrix as well as cell replenishing by ongoing synthesis. As we age this intricate balance is disrupted and this results in too little of the matrix being synthesised and too much being degraded. It is this balance that is at the forefront of age-related concerns. It is also this balance that has been addressed for decades within professional aesthetic practices, mainly embracing one of two main approaches: ! Either to utilise the use of stimulating agents that increase matrix synthesis, for example; collagen – an agent supported by much clinical evidence and various research data for maintaining and rebuilding skin matrix. However, in some cases with more mature, aged skin this can have limited effect and therefore we could consider the second approach ! Reducing an overstimulation of demand (inhibiting the breakdown). This aspect involves reducing the levels of Matrix Metalloproteases (MMPs) enzymes, which are a natural part of the degradation of redundant matrix that in balance ameliorates the complex rejuvenating process appearing in healthy, youthful skin.
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As we know, the constant renewal process of collagen fibres alters with age, often decreasing, and although collagen fibre organisation provides collagen network with great resistance, collagen fibres are sensitive to certain enzymes known as Metalloproteases (MMP). MMPs belong to a family of proteolytic enzymes (endoproteases), which contain a zinc atom coordinated with three cysteine residues and one residue of methionine in its active centre and which can, collectively, degrade macro-molecular components from the extracellular matrix and from the basal laminas into a neutral pH (collagen or elastin).
THE MATRIX METALLOPROTEASE AND ITS SUPERFAMILY The family of matrix metalloproteases is quite a complex and extensive one, with several components that are classified according to its structural similarity and specifically in its substrate, and plays an integral role in the skin matrix as well as other bio-mechanical processes. The MMPs also belong to a larger family of proteases known as the metzincin superfamily. Within the family of MMPs there are collagenases, which degrade fibrilar collagen (MMP-1 or interstitial collagenase. These include MMP-8 or neutrophil collagenase, MMP3 or collagenase 3), gellatinases, which degrade type IV collagen or any other form of denaturalised collagen (MMP-2 or gellatinase A 72 kDa and MMP-9, or gellatinase B 92 kDa). Additionally, stromelysins whose wide spectrum of activity is directed to the extracellular matrix proteins, such as glycoproteins like fibronectin or laminin and proteoglycans, among others (MMP-3 or stromelysin 1, MMP-10. Finally, stromelysin 2 and MMP-11 or stromelysin 3), matrilysin (MMP-7) metalloelastase (MMP-12) or the membrane metalloproteases (MMP-14, MMP-15, MMP-16 and MMP-17), also part of the matrix metalloproteases.
THE POSITIVES AND NEGATIVES OF MMP MMPs in balance function to produce optimal health skin matrix. However, on the negative side, they contribute to many unwanted issues. MMP-1, MMP-2 and MMP-9 activity increases with age and this increase, together with cell-growth deceleration, contributes to chronological skin ageing. Similarly, smokers' skin also has a premature ageing aspect in which MMPs are overexpressed. This has been documented by the Lancet report that eluded to MMP1. A further study presented in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology described that skins that are affected by acne have high levels of MMP-1. So we conclude that it is widely accepted that MMP activity regulation is highly important for the basal membrane and extracellular matrix protection of the skin, as well as for preventing and improving signs of ageing. 㤵 㜵
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MMPS INVOLVED IN BOTH CHRONOLOGICAL AND PHOTOAGEING We know that the skin's healing process consist of three stages: 1. Inflammation 2. Tissue formation 3. Tissue remodelling
degradation: in order for the cells to proliferate in the wounded area and regenerate new cells, it is necessary that the extracellular matrix be degradated. Such degradation is made through MMPs. Healingprocess stages are regulated by a balance between the different MMPs and it has been described that an excess of MMP activity causes chronic ulcers. For example, an overexpression of MMP-8 can be associated to the pathogenesis of leg chronic ulcers. Likewise, diabetic ulcers are characterised by a prolonged inflammation, decreased collagen synthesis and high MMP levels.
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Most scars consist of collagen fibres irregularly organised as well as an excess of collagen.
MMP activity is also responsible for the extracellular matrix disorganisation that surrounds lymphatic and blood vessels. Matrix deterioration around blood vessels allows for a passive vasodilatation that gives place to capillary visibility or telangiectasia, or couperosis. Besides this micro-capillary, passive dilatation can cause local blood vessels to burst, which can give place to bags under the eyes or dark circles in the periorbital area. Furthermore, MMPs have an influence over vein-wall mechanical properties, which can make veins fragile and consequently lead to the development of varicose veins. There is mounting research evidence that suggests MMPs participate in skin ageing. Different factors, including exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, produce collagen degradation, with all the consequences it entails on skin structure and/or the skin's elasticity, particularly on those skin areas exposed to the solar light such as the face, ears, neck, scalp, arms and hands. Skin damage associated to chronic exposition (repetitive irradiation) or high exposition (strong irradiation) to UVA and/or UVB rays has also been studied. In particular studies concluded that UVB rays (290300 nm; 5% of total UV rays) with more energetic wavelength, especially affect epidermal cells (keratinocytes) acting over its DNA. UVA rays (320-400 nm; 95% of total UV rays) have a stronger penetration grade and also act over dermal cells, such as fibroblasts that act indirectly, generating free radicals. Moreover, prolonged exposure to UV radiation, particularly to UVA and/or UVB radiation, stimulates MMP expression.
THE ROLE OF MMP IN FAT-CELL PROLIFERATION AND CELLULITE On a positive note it has also been ascertained that during adipocytes proliferation and differentiation, MMPs are overexpressed. MMP activity inhibition with several specific inhibitors prevents adipocytes differentiation. An especially interesting fact is that MMP inhibitors are able to reduce the accumulation of lipogenic markers (triglycerides) in adipocyte cultures. Thus, MMP inhibitors can be developed as anti-cellulite agents and help reduce the orange-peel skin aspect. One cosmetic compositions article specified that it is widely accepted that MMP activity regulation is highly important for the basal membrane and extracellular matrix protection, as well as for preventing and improving the signs of ageing that are the result of chronological, photo-ageing and environmental factors. We can therefore conclude that the more balanced the skin's matrix is the happier the skin will be, which will result in reduction of the signs of ageing. The decades of innovation and trusted dedication of the aesthetic industry continues to forge a pivotal edge into this realm of reducing the skin ageing issues that present our clients in the millennium era.
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A necessary stage in the healing process is the extracellular matrix
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improved results consider using products that control MMPs, while at the same time are stimulating collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid biosynthesis and include specific peptides Vitamin A and its derivatives, stabilised ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and its derivatives, soy and yeast extracts and Ruscus aculeatus have all shown to inhibit elastase that contributes to the breakdown of elastin.
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Included in the list of MMP inhibitors we find selective peptides including soy peptide complex as well as the family of Matrixyl peptides and others which are an excellent and effective source of MMP inhibition.
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Proline Rich Peptides are effective anti-inflammatory agents. PRPs are involved in the mobilisation effort as well as controlling the production of immune proteins by immune cells. PRPs stimulate the production of leukocytes (white blood cells) which are a principal component of the inflammatory response. PRPs increase the permeability of the blood vessels in the skin, allowing immune cells and antibodies to enter the tissue space to fight off the infection. PRPs stimulate natural killer (NK) cells, which are a specialised type of hunter-killer lymphocytes. They are the first responders in case of an infection and will attack and destroy anything they encounter that is not identified as "self”.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a gel-like water-holding molecule that is the space filler and cushioning agent in all mammals. HA cushions joints, nerves, hydrates skin and hair and fills the eye. Almost half of the body's HA is located in the collagen of skin and it is logical that HA plays a vital role here.
The cosmetic industry has made important efforts to offset MMPs activity and the age-related loss of functionality of extracellular matrix components caused by MMPs. Balance between production and degradation of skin-essential bio-molecules such as collagen, evolves with ageing towards the degradation processes, and with age MMP levels also elevate excessively.
EFFECTIVE MMP INHIBITORS Clinical evidence has shown that by reducing inflammation potentially this will reduce the levels of MMP enzyme activity. Using skincare ingredients that possess anti-inflammatory nutrients reduces the levels of MMP enzymes. Although there is still much needed identification for new and more effective and selective MMP inhibitors, there are currently several existing compounds and/or extracts that support the reduction of MMPs, endeavouring to return MMP activity to normal youthful levels. Some of these include:
Boswellia serrata extracts which are used in formulas as an anti 㤵 㜵
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wrinkles agent as well as resveratol and lipoic acid of botanical origin. Another new-generation botanical Ruscus aculeatus, also known as butcher's broom, has also been shown to inhibit elastase (the MP that breaks down elastin).
Retinol (Vitamin A) and its derivatives are excellent choices for reversing the signs of photo-ageing and preventing formation of MMPs. Bioflavonoids, including proanthocyanidins from Grape Seed Extract, the polyphenols from Green and White Teas and Soy phytoestrogens are also excellent for controlling MMP activity.
When MMP activity is turned on, collagen synthesis shuts down. For
A recent study1 examined the anti-inflammatory effects of hyaluronic acid in ethanol-induced damage in skin and identified that hyaluronic acid regulates cytokines and other inflammatory substances and influences inflammatory cell recruitment and chemotaxis. Chemotaxis refers to the unidirectional movement of a cell in response to a chemical gradient. Leucocytes for example move from a low to a high concentration of chemo-attractant. The directed migration, or chemotaxis, of immune cells is an essential feature of the immune system. Also, HA was found to down-regulate the expression of MMP-3 and to up-regulate the expression of anti-inflammatory cytokine IL-10, TIMP-1 and MMP-2. Overall HA has been proven to promote the expression of both anti-inflammatory and structureprotective factors in fibroblast cells.
CONTROLLING FACTORS THAT CONTRIBUTE TO AGEING SKIN Controlling biochemical reactions before they occur is the most effective way to inhibit the negative results from these reactions that are associated with signs of ageing, however, it is likely that many of these reactions have already occurred, therefore, the first step in controlling future reactions and creating a treatment that is most beneficial for the client is to gain an understanding on how certain ingredients and therapies interact to achieve the desired outcome. It's not always that easy to control biochemical reactions before they occur as the skin is in a constant state of ageing. However, in treatment protocols that aim to improve age-related concerns therapists should look at implementing modalities that will support MMP inhibition. How to achieve their penetration is another issue that will be addressed in a forthcoming issue of APJ.
REFERENCE
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In vitro anti-inflammatory effects of hyaluronic acid in ethanol-induced damage in skin cells. Neuman MG, Nanau RM, Oruña L, Coto G. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22202225
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A radical approach to skincare Two problem areas one solution!
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EVIDENCE OF CELL MIGRATION through electrical current Sometimes it only takes a quick jolt of electricity to get a swarm of cells moving in the right direction. Now scientists have physical evidence how this works and specifics on how cells are influenced by electrical currents. Gaining knowledge on this phenomenon will help us better understand how we can harness the use of technology to stimulate cell activity, and in what way various currents are influencing regeneration in the skin and body. Videos show the effect of electric fields on the movement of epithelial cells. The first clip shows the cells migrating normally until the electric field is turned on, causing the population to move right. In the second video, the electric field causes the population of cells to make a U-turn. (Video by Daniel Cohen.) To view this visit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g34jWT1m7gE Researchers at UC Berkeley found that an electrical current can be used to orchestrate the flow of a group of cells, an achievement that could establish the basis for more controlled forms of tissue engineering and for potential applications such as “smart bandages” that use electrical stimulation to help heal wounds. 㤵 㜵
In the experiments, described in a study published in the journal Nature Materials, the researchers used single layers of epithelial cells, the type of cells that bind together to form robust sheathes in skin, kidneys, cornea and other organs. They found that by applying an electric current of about five volts per centimetre, they could encourage cells to migrate along the direct current electric field.
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They were able to make the cells swarm left or right, to diverge or converge and to make collective U-turns. They also created elaborate
shapes, such as a triceratops and the UC Berkeley Cal bear mascot, to explore how the population and configuration of cell sheets affect migration. The top image shows a patch of epithelial cells. The white lines in the middle image mark the electric current flowing from positive to negative over the cells. The bottom image shows how the cells track the electric field, with blue indicating leftward migration and red signalling rightward movement. (Images by Daniel Cohen)
DIRECTING HERDS VS. INDIVIDUALS “This is the first data showing that direct current fields can be used to deliberately guide migration of a sheet of epithelial cells,” said study lead author Daniel Cohen, who did this work as a student in the UC Berkeley-UC San Francisco Joint Graduate Program in Bioengineering. “There are many natural systems whose properties and behaviors arise from interactions across large numbers of individual parts – sand dunes, flocks of birds, schools of fish, and even the cells in our tissues. Just as a few sheepdogs exert enormous control over the herding behavior of sheep, we might be able to similarly herd biological cells for tissue engineering.”
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Galvanotaxis – the use of electricity to direct cell movement – had been previously demonstrated for individual cells, but how it influences the collective motion of cells was still unclear. “The ability to govern the movement of a mass of cells has great utility as a scientific tool in tissue engineering,” said study senior author Michel Maharbiz, UC Berkeley associate professor of electrical engineering and computer sciences. “Instead of manipulating one cell at a time, we could develop a few simple design rules that would provide a global cue to control a collection of cells.”
the wound-healing process, building upon the discovery in 1843 that an injury to the body creates a change in the electrical field at the wound site. By mapping the changes in the electrical field when an injury occurs and as it heals, the researchers may be able to develop technology to help speed and improve the repair process. “These data clearly demonstrate that the kind of cellular control we would need for a smart bandage might be possible, and the next part of our work will focus on adapting this technology for use in actual injuries,” said Cohen.
ELECTRONIC DEVICES AND AESTHETICS The work was borne from a project, led by Maharbiz, to develop electronic nanomaterials for medical use that was funded by the National Science Foundation's Emerging Frontiers in Research and Innovation program. The researchers collaborated with W. James Nelson, professor of molecular and cellular physiology at Stanford University and one of the world's top experts in cell-to-cell adhesion. Cohen is now a postdoctoral research fellow in Nelson's lab.
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With such information coming to light this will further support technological innovations developed specifically for the aesthetics industry. Technology is here to stay, both for professional use, not to mention the amazing launch of home-use devices. What we now need is a more comprehensive understanding of how the various currents we use actually affect cell regeneration and cell renewal. Ongoing research over the next few years no doubt will uncover some very interesting findings.
POSSIBLE WOUND-HEALING APPLICATIONS With our bodies full of flowing ions and salt solutions, it is no surprise that electrical signals play a big role in our physiology, from neural transmissions to muscle stimulation. “The electrical phenomenon we are exploring is distinct in that the current produced is providing a cue for cells to migrate,” said Maharbiz.
RELATED INFORMATION Sarah Yang: Scientists 'herd' cells in new approach to tissue engineering Bioengineering Wound Healing (Michel Maharbiz and Daniel Cohen discuss their research on KALX 90.7 FM Spectrum, Jan. 24, 2014) http://newscenter.berkeley.edu/2014/03/11/herding-cells-newapproach-to-tissue-engineering/
The study authors are exploring the role of bioelectrical signals in
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BUSINESS NEWS
Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes
Business Apps And What You Need To Know Here's your simple guide to understanding the benefits of mobile apps, what you should be paying, who you should be paying it to and how to find a developer suited to your business's needs.
THE BENEFITS OF APPS There are some reasons every business should consider having an app built, including:
Convenience: Having a mobile app that integrates directly with your website makes it easier for you and your clients to communicate. This is particularly important if you haven't fully optimised your website for smartphone users. By not offering a mobileresponsive website you are making it difficult for clients to interact with you. Clearly this is not what you want. Awareness Those who download your app have your logo permanently on their device, delivering priceless brand awareness for you. Downloads aside, having an app in the Android and Apple marketplace will broaden your salon's online footprint more than you imagine.
Revenue
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Research company Canalys reports apps will bring in $36.7 billion worldwide by 2015, and indications are this was a conservative estimate. The possibility of securing a slice of those earnings is difficult to ignore. Unlimited free push alerts to clients can deliver additional revenue streams. When supported by well thought out strategic and promotional plans, your app's return on investment through the additions of product sales or bookings should be assured.
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Apps make it easy for businesses to keep their client service lines open 24/7. Sending a free push alert through an app is far more clientfriendly than asking them to leave a phone message or send an email.
Branding Your brand in the App Store and Google Play is a statement of innovation about your business.
How Do You Get Your Own App and How Much Will It Cost? Small business owners naturally are influenced by price, and pricing disparity is immense in the mobile app industry. You can pay a developer $10k, $20k, $30k or more to create an app for your business. Or you can get APAN to create an app for you as part of your Corporate Membership for under $1500. Many business owners will presume “you get what you pay for”. They just expect to pay upwards of $20k for an app that might only work on iPhones. “If the offer sounds too good to be true, it probably is,” right? Not necessarily with apps! Therefore, don't assume that the company quoting you $30,000 will produce a better-quality app than APAN can when they charge you under $1,500. The former company may be overcharging you because they can get away with it. As always, it pays to do your homework.
GET AN APP FROM APAN AS PART OF THEIR CORPORATE MEMBERSHIP APAN, as a member-based organisation in the Aesthetic Industry, is committed to providing extensive benefits to their members. Commencing in July this year, APAN will be including as part of their Corporate Membership structure and benefits the choice for businesses to get them to produce an app for the business. This app will be one of a number of new member benefits that will be offered to Corporate Members. APAN understands that getting your app is only the first step in the process of using it effectively in your business. Therefore, as part of your Corporate Membership, APAN will be providing you with ideas and strategies on how best to use your app effectively in your business. Getting your own business app is only one part of your Corporate Membership. Along with it, you get all the extensive member benefits that APAN offers their membership, including: ! wage support ! legal advice ! coaching/mentoring sessions ! phone support ! email support ! business document support ! MembersPlus discounts and savings ! and much, much more
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MAKING STAFF RETENTION A SUCCESS
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Employing staff in your small business has many benefits, but there is also the possibility of many issues, challenges and problems that can happen in this area. Managing staff is a big challenge for business owners, whether small, medium or large, and it's vital for business owners to be across all the key steps in the recruitment process.
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Planning for staff should be integrated with other aspects of your business, such as business planning, cash-flow forecast and workforce planning. Before hiring one or more employees you should invest some time in planning how many staff you can afford and what the skill-set needs are. It is important to consider your current turnover, workload and HR policies, plus the employment type you require and if you will offer flexible work arrangements. APAN has been instrumental in helping many salons and businesses navigate more successfully through this process. It not only offers advice, but also has available various tools such as HR Policies templates, Employment agreements and numerous other documents to help business minimises their stress in this area. A policy that rewards effort and spending time to create a good relationship with staff from the start greatly reduces staff turnover. Here are three other recommendations: ! Make training a priority: The more you train your team, the better they can be. However, in terms of results keep the sessions short and regular – half an hour every week to teach them something new and exciting and work at creating new habits and workplace behavour. ! Be open with your team: Run your business as transparently as possible and allow your staff to have input into your operational
perspectives. Understanding why the policies are there in the first place is all part of them taking ownership of the principles and abiding by them. ! Keep an open mind: Encourage your staff to feel comfortable to make recommendations on how things can be improved on. During staff meetings allow for a segment of time when staff can voice their opinion on new suggestions they believe would help everything to run more smoothly or more efficiently. Allowing innovation is one way to maintain engagement and staff momentum. If you would like further support with staff development APAN offers a full consultation program. Phone 07 5593 0360 for further details. While Charles Darwin may have been referring to nature, his commentary has never been truer than in the current business environment. Each year to help you stay a step ahead through this constant change, Crowe Howath distils the views of its financial advisors, investment analysts and economists into 10 themes. These themes aim to make sense of the world and outline how investors and businesses can take advantage of these trends. Jeremy McPhail, Head of Research at Crowe Horwath, said with change being the only constant and innovation causing rapid booms and busts of industries, investors should be making more active investments for their portfolios. Businesses also need to be more agile to be prepared for changing marketplaces.
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Ten of the best ideas to help you invest smarter in 2014
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Charles Darwin once said that it is not the strongest of species that survives, nor the most intelligent, but the one most adaptable to change.
"We have seen companies like Nokia, a mobile phone giant, dwindle to only 3 per cent of the global smartphone market by failing to meet the needs of an ever-changing space. Businesses that invest time and resources into reinventing themselves and their products or services are the foundation for any well-performing portfolio and provide good examples for good business practice," Jeremy McPhail said. Businesses investing in research and development and embracing technology to increase market share will be worthy of consumer attention.
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Here's just a few of Crowe Horwath's top 10 ideas list for 2014: ! Change – The only real constant – Baby boomers approaching
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retirement are changing where consumption is occurring The innovators – Innovation is not just good for consumers, but it is producing businesses that are more efficient and producing tangible shareholder value The new political regime – With businesses holding back spending, cashed-up companies are likely to be looking at mergers and acquisitions in 2014 Urbanisation and the growth of the middle class – Urban population is now greater than rural globally and will lead to different consumer spending patterns
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Infrastructure and property – the new annuities – Cash is returning less than inflation, so look to mature property and infrastructure for income streams
The Ten Best Investment Ideas provides a roadmap for investors and businesses looking to navigate the political and economic changes that may shape 2014. Further information and supporting graphs to each trend are shared in a full paper about the year ahead. Download your copy of Crowe Horwath's Ten Best Investment Ideas 2014 at http://www.crowehorwath.com.au/opportunities/index.php?option=com_conte nt&view=article&id=53&Itemid=221 or to register your interest to attend upcoming seminars or receive monthly eNewsletters please call 1300 856 065.
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Small Business Minister Bruce Billson says the changes will also remove unnecessary provisions from the Franchise Code of Conduct to reduce red tape and compliance burdens on business. “This red-tape reduction for the Franchising Code is estimated to save businesses $8.6 million annually and will allow more opportunities for resources to be invested back into franchise systems to drive productivity, innovation and jobs,” Billson said in a statement.
Government Unveils Sweeping Changes To Franchising Law: Your guide to the changes The Federal Government has set in motion far-ranging changes to franchise law recently, including introducing a duty to act in good faith and penalties of up to $51,000. The changes follow on from the recommendations made in the 2013 Wein Review and are set to be enacted on January 1, 2015.
The exposure draft legislation introduces a general duty on franchisors and franchisees to act in good faith during their dealings with each other, enables the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission to issue infringement notices of up to $8500 and to seek penalties of up to $51,000 from courts for serious breaches of the Franchise Code of Conduct.
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The legislation also aims to improve the disclosure and transparency of marketing funds and online sales arrangements and to provide prospective franchisees with short form, easy to understand information regarding the risks and rewards of franchising at an early stage, before they become emotionally and financially committed. The proposed legislation is available on the Treasury website for public feedback until April 30, 2014.
“The proposed changes strike the right balance between the needs of franchisors and franchisees and the unique nature of the relationship between the two.” Jason Gehrke, director of the Franchise Advisory Centre, stated that the changes appear to implement most of the Wein Review recommendations, meaning there is not a lot of difference between the Government's position and that of the former Labor Government. “That makes sense because franchising is not really a political issue,” Gehrke says. Gehrke says the “biggest surprise” in the proposed changes is the implementation time frame. “A 1 January 2015 commencement date strikes me as a significant delay given the level of preparation for the draft bill already in place,” he says. “There was a feeling that something was going to happen and it was going to happen soon and that if it did, it would have lent itself to a July 1 commencement.” Gehrke says international franchisors will not like some of the changes and may question “how badly” they want to enter the Australian market. “But the predictions that Australia would be undesirable for international franchisors started circulating in 1998 when the code was first introduced, but that hasn't stopped them coming,” he says. “If the market conditions are right they will come.”
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Gehrke disputes Billson's claim the changes will save $8.6 million in red tape and says it is “really difficult” to put a figure on the changes outlined in the proposed legislation. “In addition, that's not a net figure as there are going to be compliance costs involved in people adapting to the amendments under the Franchising Code of Conduct,” he says.
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WE MAY LOOK, BUT WE REALLY LIKE TO TOUCH
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At a recent report presented by Brian Walker of the Retail Doctor Group he indicated that the average online purchasing conversion rates, coming from the United States top 500 retailers’ report, showed an average conversion to actual sales across 15 retail categories at just 3.46%. These categories ranged from apparel/accessories through to toys and hobbies.
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Perhaps a slightly less charitable perspective might be that 96.54% of us don't actually buy online at present on average across the year, i.e. convert the research to an actual online purchase. By comparison, the point can be made of the current physical store conversion rates where we see an average of between 15-25% (in some cases skewing significantly lower and higher depending upon individual circumstances). Despite this marked difference in conversion, reports indicate that millions of dollars are being invested into online growth projections above the recapitalisation so urgently required in some of our physical-store networks. Yet does the business case, based purely on conversions, actually cut the mustard? In the short run, we might argue that this investment is not justified on this basis, although the broader view would be that there is no more powerful advertising and consumer touch point than online. What is primarily relevant to the online business case, aside from acquisition cost per unit sale, is that we see that over 80% of big-ticket items are researched online and interestingly, according to Google, we find that currently 40% of shopping-related searches originate from smartphones or tablets. So although we are still seeing comparably lower conversion, internet/online/virtual retail or whatever we may call it has a very dominant role as a research and convenience tool. The number of unique visits/hits, etc, is interesting and important primarily for understanding the power of the brand site to attracting people to the site, but these do little to explain anything about the customer's actual behavior with regards conversion to sale.
Of course this online research plays a significant role in the path of purchase to the physical-store sale, and therefore it further supports the power of having an integrated cross-channel offer. Further research shows that 63% of those that prefer to shop in store than online say it is because they “like to see, feel and touch the product before buying it”. This is also important to the beauty industry as it is quite evident that consumers still like to have their five senses stimulated in extraordinary ways, and we are seeing highly successful cosmetic brands reflecting in their newer 'fitter' retail formats. We are also seeing that consumers are increasingly researching online before experiencing “the real thing” within its physical environment. What this means to the beauty and aesthetics industry is that progressively consumers are coming in looking for products with an existing understanding and some knowledge on the product that are seeking. It therefore stands to reason that when asking for your advice they will compare your recommendations and knowledge with what they have already read about the products. Online research will continue as will people reaching for the feeltouch experience before deciding to buy. One channel is about process and convenience, the other channel is about people and experience. Clicking to convert is not enough, we need to engage further with the client and touch them in a more meaningful way. The answer for a “fit” retailer is the merging of both channels. It's not about a single metric in a single channel, rather both touch points working together in accord that will lift conversion for the business as a whole.
Last Christmas saw the major department stores take the unprecedented action of going on sale the week leading up to Christmas in what is usually their strongest revenue and margin period. D&B analyst Gareth Jones commented on this trend: “Five years ago, discounting was a seasonal tactic that was primarily limited to post-Christmas and end of financial year periods. However, discounting is now the norm as consumers have become accustomed to sales and unwilling to buy at full price.” With continuing merger discussions between David Jones and Myer – a move that would have been unheard of a few years ago – there is clearly a significant change going on at a macro level. If discounting doesn't work, the next question is: what will?
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Is discounting killing retail? With continued deep discounting, countless brand closures and ongoing profit slumps from major Australian retailers, the question has to be asked, have retailers gone too far with discounting and what is the impact of this behaviour?
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You only need to step inside an Apple store to see that retailers who focus on value and experience are faring much better than most. At a more tactical level, there are a range of promotional options at retailers' disposal, including value-added offers such as loyalty programs, gift with purchase and buy one get one free.
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But what's really at play here? Engagement.
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The ability to connect with a customer or client on a deeper level is emerging as the key currency in winning over customers in this ever-changing retail landscape. One of the leading contenders for driving engagement is gamification. Gamification is designed to increase the level of interaction between consumers and brands through a range of game-like activities. It has been identified by technology analyst Gartner as a rapidly growing area, and, according to the firm, over 70 per cent of the Forbes Global 2000 companies will roll out one or more gamified application by the end of 2014.
Marigo Raftopoulos, a gamification expert at RMIT in Melbourne, defines the approach this way: “Gamification is all about the art of engagement and motivation. It's focusing on what's important to people: giving them autonomy, control and influence over their destiny.” While gamification is intended to be fun and offer an experience beyond a simple transaction (think of location-based app FourSquare,
which allows customers to check-in to local businesses and locations to earn points and gain recognition as regulars), engagement doesn't need to exist in a vacuum as an activity that has no clear commercial purpose. In the retail space, this means finding gamification solutions that will drive brand engagement and loyalty, while also driving sales and improving margins in the long term. There are new kinds of gamification concepts emerging such as Buy to Win. This approach, which we've developed, allows retailers to drive sales without discounting by instead offering customers the chance to instantly win their purchase for free. The concept has been successfully run online and more recently as an in-store solution to help create excitement at the checkout and boost bricks-and-mortar sales.
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With the ongoing structural pressure in the retail landscape including online growth and competition from overseas, there is certainly no silver bullet here, but retailers need to look at alternatives to stay ahead, and engagement through gamification should be part of that equation. Ref: RetailBiz Special OP/ED by Damien Cantelo
businesses to capital markets. According to research from CPA Australia in 2012, the two largest sources of finance for small businesses are credit cards and secured bank loans. The RBA says most small businesses continue to use loans from financial institutions for their debt funding because it can be too difficult and costly to raise funds directly from capital markets. In the decade preceding the financial crisis, access to finance for small businesses increased, however, since the global financial crisis lending conditions have tightened. “Smaller businesses are typically viewed as having more volatile revenue streams, and there are often greater information asymmetries, compared with large businesses,” the RBA's submission says.
RBA calls for scrutiny of small business loans The Reserve Bank of Australia is urging the Financial System Inquiry to scrutinise barriers to small business loans, as it also pushes for action to increase supporting infrastructure for capital market funding.
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In its submission to the Murray inquiry recently the Reserve Bank of Australia says the focus should be on small business loans, rather than competition in the home mortgage market. “The market for small business loans has more structural impediments to competition than most other lending markets, because information asymmetries tend to be more significant,” the RBA's submission says. “The Bank considers that this market should be the focus of inquiries regarding competition in lending, rather than the mortgage market.”
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The Reserve Bank says despite the recent trend towards market-based funding, some banks still play “an integral role” in helping bring
But while access to finance may be difficult for some small businesses, the 90% that are able to secure a loan have better conditions with the current historically low official cash rate. New research published recently by finance site Mozo found banks have passed on more of the RBA rate cuts to small businesses than they have to consumers for credit cards, personal loans and home loans. Since January 2012, 94% of the RBA's rate cuts have been passed on to businesses, while only 50% have been passed on for personal loans, according to Mozo. The research shows business credit cards have also seen twice the fall in rates as personal credit cards, dropping 25% and 11% respectively. Mozo founder Rohan Gamble said in a statement the average business loan rate is now 6.93%. “The signs are positive that the banks are now valuing, and investing in, their business customers and that Australia's SMEs will be able to get access to competitive business funding and banking services to support their growth,” he says. Ref: Murray inquiry Financial System Inquiry
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When you want the perfect fit you need an
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Discovering the Synchrony between the
NATURAL WORLD, YOUR INNER WORLD AND YOUR BUSINESS By By Isabelle Isabelle Sennery Sennery Almost everybody would agree that change is in the air. You can feel it all around you, whether it be forced on us because of global warming, the increase statistics in failing health or in economic systems. We are fast coming to the realisation that the way we have been living to date has become unsustainable for us and the planet. These realisations are forcing us to look for new ways of doing everything we do, and that includes how we do business. Less obvious to the majority of individuals is the fact that breakthrough discoveries in the scientific fields that define our age, from a physics, biology or neuroscience point of view, are challenging our current belief systems – how we define the way we live, work and talk and are transforming our understanding of life. These concepts are often a little frightening at first, but they are valid and warrant our investigation. For example, what the microscopic
and energetic world of quantum physics is revealing about our world and how this and other scientific information are directly or indirectly impacting our world, and specifically our business world. By staying ignorant on such matters and adopting an “out of sight, out of mind” mentality, you may be risking the opportunity to identify the necessary changes you need to make in order to stay relevant in a changing world, and more importantly, to your clients and your business for which you are responsible. Today, maintaining a position of ignorance is no longer an option if we are to survive in business. Science is discovering amazing information on how our world operates and what forces influence it. These discoveries do not apply only to certain individuals at the exclusion of others; they apply and are relevant to everyone – you, me, your clients, your children, your suppliers and your staff. In essence, the pivotal issue for this is quite simple – energy governs matter.
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Simply put, everything that makes up your life, your world and your business environment that you consider is “made of matter” (including the people in your business, your staff and your clients) is governed by energy. Whether we understand or believe in the science behind this, we are ALL subjected to the same laws that govern the relationship between energy and matter – the study of which makes up the field of quantum physics.
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When Magellan circumnavigated the globe, the issue of the earth being round was settled, even though this knowledge had been known intuitively for over 2000 years. In turn, today's science is validating what we have known intuitively for millennium. The physical world is but a fraction of a much expanded reality that although invisible to the naked eye, actually governs the physical world. We are simply now gaining a better understanding of the forces that govern our world. Once the initial challenge of integrating this new body of knowledge into our thinking is gained, we will find that applying it is not as daunting as we may be led to believe. You do not need to understand everything about quantum physics to benefit from these discoveries, in the same way as you do not need to understand everything about electricity in order to use your electrical equipment. Understanding how turning a switch on or off will allow the electrical current to activate your equipment sufficiently for you to experience the power of electricity in your home and business. Likewise understanding the basic tenets of how energy and matter interact is really all we need to understand to experience a much expanded field of information. This knowledge is now critical if we are to resolve our current challenges and progress into the 21st century. The point I want to make here is that although the actual science is complex, all you need to know is how to USE it for the benefits of your business – what switch to turn on, what switch to turn off. With the understanding that everything is energy, starting with your thoughts and emotions, what you must understand is how the energy generated by your thoughts and your emotions impacts your communication with clients. We are not talking about positive thinking (content) here, but about energy (intensity, quality, speed). If you take the analogy of a piece of laser equipment, consider how the outcome you are targeting, the results you are achieving and your customer's satisfaction with these results vary significantly with the setting you would have selected and the energy programmed within each pulse. Whether we like it or not, whether we presently believe in them or not, individually and collectively we can no longer ignore these new sciences and must accept our new responsibility to do our part to reverse the damages we created by ignoring our relationship with Mother Earth.
This discovery is not at all new. Albert Einstein was among the first scientist to state that the “field” (that's how he described this invisible energetic realm) is the primary governing force of the material realm. The link between ancient wisdoms and the new physics has never been more evident: in a universe made out of energy. Everything is intertwined, everything is woven into the fabric of reality we call 'life'.
HOW IS THIS RELEVANT TO THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?
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For a start, if everything is energy and energy is information (not the type of information you hear on the news or read in a paper obviously, but information nevertheless) then what is the quality of the information we deliver to our clients? How do we communicate effectively?
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Many of us have built, or are building, a business based on what other people tell us we should do, the services we should offer, how we should advertise and the price points we should offer, etc. When results do not turn up the way we anticipated them, we think that we must be doing something wrong, we must be at fault, we must not have the skills or the right equipment. In line with today's new discoveries and what we now know, most of this is not the real cause, there is another reality that we perhaps have not considered – energy (thoughts, emotions, intuition) is the cause. In light of this what new choices do we now have in running our businesses on a day-to-day basis? Gaining a more comprehensive understanding of how the world we live in operates is not something we should think about secondary to gaining business skills, budgeting, or planning and hiring staff. In fact this knowledge should be the absolute master key and foundational stone of your business success in the 21st century. This understanding about our core relationship with everything that makes up our lives and environment is shifting us (globally) to a whole new thinking paradigm. This shift in global awareness is more evident at the higher end of the spectrum – were we witness the rise of a worldwide sub-culture of consumers that are environmentally aware, socially attuned and have a view of the world that takes into account spiritual, community and planetary outcomes. These conscious shoppers make trade-offs when choosing products and services, considering not just their own personal benefit, but also of importance to them is the impact on the community and planet. In other words, they put their money where their heart is. Understanding their mindset will allow you to better determine how their choices may have shifted in view of global viewpoints and considerations. We live in a world where we have access to more and more information on a daily basis. Customers that once used to rely solely
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on outside expertise for recommendations have now developed a desire to understand the 'truth' so that they know a decision is the right decision for them, not a choice made because someone told them so. As an example, have you notice a growing dislike for being pressured into having to believe anything?
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YOU ARE NOT ALONE HELP IS AT HAND As AVG Security Advisor, Michael McKinnon, says: “If you are the owner of a small or growing business, chances are you think you're too small for cybercriminals to be interested in you. But think again, with many cybercriminals using automated scanning tools, unless you protect yourself they'll eventually find you.” The good news is that you don’t have to become an IT expert to survive in this “brave new world”. There is help available through Kharis Enterprises, a AVG accredited reseller.
As a business owner, you need to understand your client in a new way that embraces the shifting new perspectives that influence their decisions. To achieve an understanding of your clients at this level is a practice in intimacy. I know that we are trained to reduce intimacy within the realm of romantic relationships, but consider this – the definition for intimacy is a close association with, or detailed knowledge or deep understanding of a place, subject, and period of history or person. So in a business context, intimacy means to have a deep understanding of who you are (self-knowledge), what you are about, what you stand for and how you then connect with others through similar values. This knowledge is meant to be personal, meaningful and inspirational. It needs to be acted upon and engaged within all of your business relationships, whether these are an employee, a colleague, a new or existing client or a supplier.
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Whatever your level of need Kharis can offer you a tailored solution – from a complete externally monitored and controlled system to a Key questions we need to ask are: ! What gives me the right to enter in a business relationship with stand-alone business-level Internet Software. You will be surprised at how simple it is to implement and how costeffective the solution can be. With the Internet your location is not a problem to work with your system – we simply log on remotely and set everything up. Contact Mark at Kharis Enterprises on 0412 177 423 or avg@kharis.com and let him give you peace of mind.
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that individual? Who are we? How do we best connect (energetically, values, purpose, and vision?) How can we create together a win-win solution for all involved?
With such a perspective and approach that takes into account where you're coming from in any situation will allow you to interact with your environment and others in a more responsible and meaningful way. This approach will allow you to more accurately determine what your clients are looking for, not just on what is observed, but also based on their core values. This expanding awareness of values and needs of both parties will allow you to better achieve the outcomes you and your clients are seeking. Those business owners that are in active relationship with this information understand that through their own insights and actions they are constantly interacting with and engaging with the world around them. To conclude, the philosophy I offer forward-thinking business owners is not just about financial success, but also about embracing new responsibilities in this time of change. © Isabelle Sennery May 2014
Isabelle Sennery is a business development expert and coach. Her unique style not only provides business tools on operational issues, but goes deeper to examine both the business owner's as well as their clients' underlying views and values that ultimately govern their decision-making. If you would like Isabelle to help you EVOLVE YOUR LIFE AND YOUR BUSINESS contact her by Phone: 03 9972 5438 or mobile: 0416 143 537 or Email: evolve@isabellesennery.com
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You can also meet and hear Isabelle speak at the APAN Aesthetics Conference in Sydney on Monday 25th August (see pages 32-33 for further details).
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Happy, Productive Staff are the Backbone of a SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS Let us help you find them CTITIO NE PRA and keep them S
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Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) P: 07 5593 0360 | info@apanetwork.com
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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.
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Exercise reverses skin ageing Staying fit has often been lauded as the key to a healthy lifestyle, and now a new study suggests that exercising aids in reversing skin ageing. Regular exercise is believed to keep one's skin glowing and now a study conducted by researchers at Canada's McMaster University in Hamilton, Ontario, reveals that it can result in the reduction of skin ageing. Apparently, if one exercises frequently, the skin is not only younger looking, but the ageing process is also reversed for those who start working out at an older age. Researchers based their findings on the results of experiments that were conducted on mice and later on humans. The team experimented on mice that were bred to age early and maintained a sedentary life. These mice became weak and lost their fur, which turned grey. By comparison, mice who were active and had access to running wheels stayed healthy and their fur did not turn grey or fall out. On the contrary, the fur was longer and healthier looking. The scientists' findings were duplicated on human beings, with 29 volunteers between ages 20 and 84 being engaged for the experiment. "We wanted to examine skin that had not been frequently exposed to the sun," says Dr. Mark Tarnopolsky, professor of pediatrics and exercise science at McMaster University. The researchers evaluated the skin samples of the volunteers and divided them into two groups. One group was made to work out for at least three hours vigorously every week, whereas the second group barely exercised for an hour every week.
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ADVANCED COSMECEUTICALS OFFICIALLY ANNOUNCED THE SOLE AUSTRALIAN DISTRIBUTOR FOR LUTRONIC® Advanced Cosmeceuticals, which was previously co-distributor for Lutronic's HEALITE II LED phototherapy system, is very pleased to announce that the company is now sole distributor for all Lutronic equipment throughout Australia. “The time had come for us to explore growth opportunities that work synergistically with the brands we represent. Lutronic is the perfect partner, allowing us as a company to expand into new areas that will consequently also benefit our current brands and expand our clients. It's a very exciting time for the entire Advanced Cosmeceuticals team,” said Catherine Biedermann, Managing Director. Members of the Advanced Cosmeceuticals team recently visited the Lutronic headquarters in Seoul, South Korea to undergo training. Catherine Biedermann (Managing Director), Paul Kirk (Business Development Manager QLD), Bradford Creese (Business Development Manager NSW & TAS), Sue Butterfield (Business Development Manager NSW) and Linda Christian (Business Development Manager & State Trainer WA & NT) spent one week in Seoul undergoing intensive training conducted by key members of the Lutronic team, including R Glen Calderhead PhD, DrMedSci FRSM, VP Medicoscientific Affairs, and Boncheol Leo Goo, MD, Medical Director, and Director, Clinique L.
For further information please contact Advanced C o s m e c e u t i c a l s o n 1 8 0 0 2 4 2 0 11 o r v i s i t www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au
Post this regimen, the researchers tested the skin samples of both groups’ members and discovered that both men and women above age 40 who exercised regularly had a "markedly thinner, healthier stratum corneums and thicker dermis layers in their skin". Corneum is the part of the skin that is visible to us.
volunteers were aged 65 and above and had standard skin type for their age bracket. The volunteers had to exercise twice a week and either jogged or cycled at a moderate pace that was not too strenuous. This regimen was equal to almost 65 per cent of their maximum aerobic capacity for half an hour. The routine continued for three months and after the period lapsed the researchers tested the skin of the volunteers again for differences.
This basically means that the skin of these individuals was younger looking and felt similar to that of 20- to 30-year-olds rather than people their own age.
The scientists found that the skin sample of this group looked pretty different when compared with its look at the start. The inner and outer layers, i.e. the dermis and corneum, both resembled that of 20 to 40-year-olds.
However, the researchers opined that external factors like the individual's diet, lifestyle and genes may also have played an integral role and could influence the different skin conditions found in those who exercised and the group that had a sedentary lifestyle.
"I don't want to over-hype the results, but, really, it was pretty remarkable to see," said Dr. Tarnopolsky.
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Therefore, the scientists got skin samples from the buttocks of a group of sedentary volunteers and then asked them to exercise. This group of
An interesting finding was the higher levels of myokine (a type of protein secreted by muscle cells) in individuals who exercised more, which may have influenced the skin changes. Ref: Healio Dermatology
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This is because if the carotinoids from the smoothies were not absorbed they would not travel to the skin. For this reason the candidate's background diet was assessed prior to the trial.
STUDIES CONFIRM RELATIONSHIP OF CAROTINOID DIET AND SKIN APPEARANCE Several studies confirm the relationship between a diet of carotenoid-rich food can improve the appearance of the skin by imparting a healthy glow. A research group at the Schools of Psychology and Bioscience at the University of Nottingham Malaysia Campus assessed the effects of carotenoid-rich fresh fruit drinks on the skin and the perceived attractiveness. Another study concluded that slightly tanned skin is considered more beautiful because it is perceived as more healthy. It would appear that a diet rich in carotenoid-rich food can impart a healthy glow to the skin in a similar way to a mild tan. In the trial seven smoothies were chosen, each containing up to 50% underutilised fruit. The study was conducted with 80 volunteers who were recruited by PhD student Tan Kok Wei, who was responsible for the six-week trial.
Carotenoids are considered important to skin health. They possess lipophilic orange and yellow pigments that are present in most fruit and vegetables. Betacarotene is one of the most studied carotenoids and known for its function as a pro-vitamin A and a dietary antioxidant. During the trial measurements were taken of their body composition, dietary intake, skin colour and brightness. The nutritional aspects of the study were monitored by Dr Brigitte A Graf, a nutrition scientist who designed the smoothies, as it was important that bioactive food ingredients – in this case carotenoids were absorbed into the body by the food ingested.
Women experienced significant lifting and tightening of facial and neck skin up to 180 days after one treatment with microfocused ultrasound, according to recent study results. The treatment, paid for by the patients, was conducted using 4-MHz, 4.5 mm and 7-MHz, 3 mm-depth transducers (Ulthera), between May and October 2011. The patients completed 90 or 180-day follow-up visits or both, depending on when their treatment had occurred. Digital images were used to compare patients before treatment and at follow-up. with treatment results, and at 180 days, 60% remained very satisfied or satisfied. Sixty-seven per cent of patients demonstrated appearance improvement, according to masked reviewer assessment at 180 days. Age, Fitzpatrick skin type, alcohol intake or major illnesses were not associated with those improvements.
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The candidates drank a smoothie a day or the equivalent volume mineral water for a duration of six weeks. The results indicated that those candidates who drank the carotinoid-rich smoothie developed a more golden colour to the skin that made them look healthier and by comparison, more attractive. Ref: http://jn.nutrition.org/content/132/3/399.short
“Although the data obtained at 90 days must be interpreted cautiously because of the smaller number of patients, subjects achieved significant lifting and tightening of facial and neck skin up to 180 days after one MFU treatment,” the researchers concluded. “These results need to be confirmed in a larger, prospective, controlled study.” Disclosure: The researchers report no relevant financial disclosures. Fabi SG. Dermatol Surg. 2014;40:569-575. Sabrina G. Fabi, MD, and Mitchel P. Goldman, MD, of Goldman, Butterwick, Fitzpatrick, Groff and Fabi Dermatology Cosmetic Laser, San Diego, studied 48 women (mean age, 58 years) who had been treated with microfocused ultrasound (MFU) with visualisation on the face and upper neck.
The Mesoéclat® method comprises the simultaneous actions of three complementary systems targeted at brightening the skin, facilitating exfoliation of the outer epidermal layers, encouraging deep nourishment of the skin and helping to smooth small facial wrinkles.
A new-generation, immediate-effect skin rejuvenation treatment, the Mesoéclat® intensive skin-treatment range is bringing to clinics and salons a new treatment-standard result. Mesoéclat® treatment works by stimulating the mechanism of the skin, helping combat the skin's ageing process. The treatment, which is based on a unique blend of exfoliants at varying strengths as well as added skin-renewal ingredients, acts directly on the signs of fatigued and ageing skin. It helps promote the defence mechanism of the skin and assists in cellular
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Advanced Cosmeceuticals welcomes international export manager Lorenzo Grottanelli to Australia for the launch of the amazing Mesoéclat® Skin treatment range
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One patient reported a minor adverse event, a 2mm white dermal papule on the upper neck that resolved after an injection of 0.1 mL of 10 mg/mL triamcinolone acetonide.
SINGLE MICROFOCUSED ULTRASOUND OF FACIAL, NECK SKIN IMPROVED LAXITY, APPEARANCE UP TO 180 DAYS
Data for 16 women were obtained for 90 days and 45 women for 180 days, and 81.3% and 77.7% of those patients achieved improvement, respectively, according to the Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale scores. The results indicated that 75% of patients at 90 days and 77.8% at 180 days perceived improvement. In a Patient Satisfaction Questionnaire at 90 days, 62.5% of women reported being very satisfied or satisfied
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repair, helping to create essential elements for nutrition and optimum moisture levels. The result: Mesoéclat® produces a rejuvenating effect that helps to brighten and revitalise the skin in minimum time, to help achieve smooth
The results are quick and include visibly youngerlooking skin, enhanced brightness, smoothing of wrinkles, softer, firmer and more uniform skin while helping to reduce skin imperfections.
For further information please contact Advanced Cosmeceuticals on 1800 242 011 or visit www.advancedcosmeceuticals.com.au
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Situated in Coorparoo, a suburb on the outskirts of Brisbane, Queensland, Aesthetica is a buzzing salon that boasts a diverse range of services that are both broad and specialised. Permanent hair reduction, skin-management solutions and a complete range of beauty therapy services, plus makeup and style consultancy as well as hair services.
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As any business owner will tell you the success of any salon also leans heavily on the passion and commitment of its staff, and Aesthetica has a rising star that it is happy to boast about. Michelle Killeen, fondly nicknamed “Irish”, with a friendly smile, cheery laugh and inexhaustible sense of humour, is one of Aesthetica's highly qualified senior beauty therapists. Having just celebrated two years with Aesthetica this March, Michelle recently also graduated from a level 7 post-graduate qualification in IPL/Laser hair reduction. The 70110 Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL/Laser Hair Reduction is a government approved qualification and Michelle was one of the first in Australia to obtain this qualification as part of the National Workforce Development Fund – the first co-contribution government-funded program for the beauty industry. This initiative was introduced to the beauty industry by APAN, which was appointed by Services Skills Australia as the lead organisation.
Michelle Killeen – A Rising Star at Aesthetica
APAN selected and made this qualification available to the industry through four Registered Training Organisations, one of which was Beauty Therapy Training Australia in Cooloongatta, Queensland, from whom Michelle completed her qualification over a six-month period. Despite her youth, Michelle has an extensive background in Beauty Therapy, an interest that began back in her home country of Ireland. “In high school, I knew I wanted to work in a profession that would use my hands,” says Michelle. When a visiting beauty therapist spoke during a career guidance class about working in the industry, Michelle, at the age of 15, knew she had found her career path.
After high school, Michelle attended Mayoralty College in Galway, completing a full-time Beauty, Body and Massage course. One of her awarded diplomas – the CIDESCO – is an internationally recognised qualification allowing the holder to work in over 32 countries and is no small effort to attain.
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For three years Michelle worked in the prestigious Ashford Castle in Mayo – a five-star hotel voted No. 1 best hotel resort in Ireland, “It was such a beautiful place to go to work,” says Michelle.
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At Ashford Castle, Michelle worked as a full-time spa therapist carrying out five-star treatments in massage, facials and body therapy.
Moving to Australia, Michelle commenced working in a luxury day
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spa in Jindalee in Queensland, which focused on traditional beauty and spa treatments.
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Seeking a more permanent position, Michelle joined Aesthetica in
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The course was comprehensive and included:
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March 2012, where she began learning more advanced beauty-therapy procedures. “Aesthetica is heavily involved in hair removal, skin rejuvenation, vascular and skin pigmentation, along with corrective and antiageing treatments using modern equipment technologies and protocols,” Michelle says. When Michelle finished college in Ireland, IPL and laser therapy was very new to the industry. “Before IPL hair-removal methods were waxing, tweezing, sugar methods, which, as we know, are all temporary,” Michelle confirms. “The IPL machine revolutionised the hairremoval industry, and when I started working with Aesthetica I wanted to know more about permanent hair reduction.”
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Aesthetica's Salon Director, Tracy Dobbin, ever mindful of providing the latest and safest services to clients, encouraged Michelle to gain higher qualification in IPL and laser. Due to a lack of regulations several unscrupulous operators whose services contributed to burns have had their stories aired on A Current Affair and other TV programs, contributing to the industry receiving bad publicity. With this in mind APAN saw the opportunity to assist businesses gain qualifications in this area, and so when the government approached them to nominate a qualification they immediately identified the 70110 Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction as the preferred qualification to request governmentfunded support for salon owners and their staff.
The theory and physicals of light-based technology and in particular IPL and laser Health and safety requirements, protocols and procedures Maintain infection control Designing individual treatment plans Studying various case studies relating to this procedure Skin types and determining appropriate application perimeters Treatment techniques for best treatment outcomes Case studies and their relevance to the treatment Other technologies and associated treatments to complement these treatments
“We are pleased to have Michelle gain this qualification as this will contribute to our long-term success in these services, as we have 14 years of IPL experience on record in our salon,” says Tracy. “I would like to thank Angie Smith at Beauty Therapy Training Australia in Queensland with who I undertook my training, Michelle said. “Her teaching was thorough and comprehensive and has given me great confidence in moving forward with high skills and knowledge in delivering successful and effective IPL treatments. “I also would like to thank APAN for the services they are providing me as a member. Their Code of Ethics is exceptional and their services and support to me as a professional allows me to feel a sense of protection and that I can always turn to an industry expert who can give me credible, professional advice and guide me with any decision-making. As an APAN member I can now access numerous discounts. As an example I can secure a 25% discount on my insurance for my IPL services.
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“APAN is a highly respected body in the industry and is acknowledged for their pursuit of initiatives such as their conference programs and their journal APJ in assisting the industry to achieve a higher professional status,” Michelle concluded.
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In completing this qualification Michelle gained competence in both the theory and practical application of laser and IPL hair reduction.
AESTHETICA is located at 8/377 Cavendish Road, Coorparoo, QLD. 4151 | Phone: (07) 3324 2111
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Why Authenticity is the “it” word for the new breed of consumers By Tina Viney My proofreader recently told me how overused the word “unique” is, as he encounters it in publications and articles, particularly when they have advertising content. It would appear that everyone believes their products and services are unique. The truth is that to a certain extend this word is becoming passé. In today's multi-media environment consumers have not only access to amazing choices, but also your competitors can quickly learn the catch-phrases and bylines that others are using to lure clients into their doors. Have you noticed for example that growing frequency of the term “dermal therapies” is being used to describe services whether or not the practitioner is a qualified dermal therapist or not? Other popular statements include “we will meet and surpass your expectations”. Meanwhile survey results point to the fact what consumers consider it more important that they are listened to and are actually given what they want rather than being promised to exceed their expectations. On the other hand, stating that your product or treatments are unique is now a questionable assumption, as it would imply that you are fully aware what everyone else is offering and your product is still unique in other words different, distinctive and individual.
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Experts also confirm that the word unique is becoming a cliché and therefore losing its power, while consumers are now looking more for authenticity. They value honesty and truthfulness from the information presented to them over how distinctive the product or service may be.
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Consumers are progressively becoming unimpressed over marketing hype that is trying hard to present a glossy and perfect choice – they want to know not just the promise, but also the limitations. ㈵
Regulators are also legislating against misleading advertising that sensationalises outcomes that are not based on facts. Recently L'Oreal
was targeted by the regulators in the US about their models wearing false lashes when advertising their mascara, stating that this was misleading. L'Oreal's response was that the model was demonstrating how appealing deep, long lashes are and not necessarily that this was the result of the use of their mascara.
In Australia businesses are required to comply with the requirements of the Trade Practices Act when it comes to promotions and advertising. APAN has documents that outline these guidelines for the benefit of members as non-compliance can land you a fine from the ACCC.
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Meanwhile, as exaggeration is becoming commonplace it is slowly losing its appeal, as we are no longer convinced that it is real.
Consumer sentiments are shifting. They now recognise that there is in fact beauty in imperfection. When something becomes too polished it indicates too much effort to impress and therefore loses its soul. Take for example the excessive use of injectibles. The face may become wrinkle-free, but it is also taking on a plastic, artificial look that screams of “too much”.
The digital age makes it easy to be inauthentic. Individuals now have the power to create a person in whatever image they choose, even if it doesn't match reality. The person who sends inspirational tweets or smiles in pictures on Facebook doesn't have to be the one who lives inside of us. New media encourages us to be “on” all the time, and in such a setting authenticity requires intentionality. Social media must be viewed not only as a way to connect, but also an avenue for honesty about who we are and what we are really offering. The reason that authenticity is gaining such momentum is because it is viewed as honesty and not willing to compromise truth for the sake of making an impression. At the heart of authenticity you will therefore find honesty, ethics and professionalism, and as an industry we must never lose sight of such attributes.
AUTHENTICITY – A NECESSARY CHARACTERISTIC OF LEADERS The search and appreciation for authenticity is also spilling over to individuals and leaders in their field. Authentic leaders rise to the top in a world of knockoffs, imitations and counterfeits. Our society has a growing appetite for authenticity. Consumers crave magazine covers without unrealistic Photo-shopped veneers, documentaries shot on raw backstage interviews and honest encounters. People demand musical artists who avoid lip-synching at concerts and award shows, they are drawn to reality shows by the droves and we can attest today that authenticity it is not just expected, it is required. As a leader of your team, whether you are a business owner or a manager, you also need to take note of this global shift in expectations. A recent survey conducted by Catalyst – a reputable leadership organisation in the US – reported that 40 per cent of respondents to
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their extensive survey said that authenticity is one of the most important leadership traits of the next decade, and 47 per cent said they first look for authenticity in a potential boss.
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IMPROVED STANDARDS AND THE ROLE OF AUTHENTICITY There is no doubt that in a world of fierce competition and the challenge of business survival, high standards, best practice and excellence in conduct and services is something that requires ongoing pursuit in order that we can excel and make an impression. However, these efforts have to be based on truth and integrity. There is a fine line between genuine advances and pushing too hard in your efforts to win the favour of others, where you may be tempted to move into the realm of either exaggerations or outright untruths in the name of making an impression or “winning the deal”. This is a dangerous practice and I see this all the time in our industry, where honesty and integrity are compromised for the sake of gaining acceptance and favour from colleagues and clients. As a result it is only a matter of time when the truth is revealed, resulting in a loss of credibility or even an insurance claim. Other practices such as “before and after” shots that have been digitally enhanced, promises of results that cannot be achieved, claims of product performance that are scientifically unsubstantiated, all these issues violate the Trade Practices Act and any decent code of ethics, not to mention the respect of the consumer.
INTERACTING WITH TEAM MEMBERS Furthermore, as a business owner or a staff trainer it is important that your staff perceive you as having personal integrity and that also means being real. Don't be tempted to put on a front that you are always perfect. You will gain more respect from your staff if you acknowledge that at times you don't always get it right and need to adjust your position. While it is important that your staff respect you, being humble and approachable are very endearing qualities that will help you gain their admiration and respect. You are leading by example and the message you should be putting out to them is that progress is a team effort – an on-going journey that challenges us to transition from better to best.
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On a personal level, some years ago when I was president of another industry Association I was challenged in this area. As the chairperson of the Board of Directors I felt I was expected to be always right, be strong and hold my position with responsibility as the figurehead of the organisation. Fortunately for me there was so much work to be done that I didn't have time to worry about my presidential persona. The organisation was struggling financially and needed a fresh vision and new ideas to evolve its purpose and value to the members and the industry. This was a difficult task and I put forward several recommendations of new initiatives for expansion to the Board, which of course all had a certain level of risk. Observing that some of the board members were deliberating whether to vote in favour of these initiatives, I decided to become totally
transparent and confess to them that I was just as aware of the risks as they were and that after all I was just one of them. I soon realised that there was no point in putting up a façade of total confidence. We were taking risks and I needed to be totally honest about it. It is funny, but it was that element of humility that won the board's trust in me. From there on we moved cautiously forward with a thorough financial plan developed by our capable treasurer, who was also a qualified accountant. United as a team and in full support of the board we moved progressively from strength to strength. Within three years that I held my office as chair we took the organisation from near bankruptcy to a $800,000 income. We introduced a National Awards Program, grew our mini-trade show to a fully pledged expo and conference program that we staged at an exhibition centre, growing its attendance from approximately 350 to nearly 3000, and this was only the beginning. The key to our success, however, was due to the level of trust and respect we had for one another. We were a strong and unified board void of any politics. I can honestly say staying humble and honest with my board was also very liberating. I did not try to impress anyone, and in acknowledging my need for their support, contribution and understanding I gained their respect and backing to move forward. The journey to authenticity begins with learning to be comfortable in your own skin. With looking at yourself in the mirror and saying, “I may not be perfect, but I work at improving each day and that is OK”. It is important to remember that as a business owner or a manager you are expected to be the real deal. As a leader in your business, if something goes wrong you will be the first to be targeted, so it is important that you stay grounded and comfortable with who you are, and this will require that you know and acknowledge your strengths and limitations. Respecting your own authenticity and humanness will also make you more approachable to your staff. While you can impress people from a distance, you can only influence them up close. Humility invites growth and improvement. How many times have I heard of a staff member that was accidentally caught out doing something not quite right only to feel so embarrassed in letting the business down that they left the premises crying and resigning – why? Because they viewed their sense of failure as a terminal issue that needed punishment. If you are pitching the expectations so high without any support for any human error then perhaps your rules are too rigid. Errors should be perceived as a
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lesson we can learn from and make the necessary adjustments, and not a terminal state of affairs.
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Authenticity in the workplace means that you allow you and your staff to be themselves. While high standards are something that all staff should be encouraged to enthusiastically aspire to, they should never be expected to stop being themselves, wear a mask and just become little robots at work. I also see many salon owners feel the pressure to succeed, and as a result, create and accept a pseudo self. This is a version of them that hides their warts and magnifies their best traits. Unfortunately, those who know us best and even those who simply work with us every day see right through this. They recognise our true self and know we're not embracing that person. We won't reach our full potential by investing energy into creating false versions of ourselves. Furthermore, we are creating a culture of pretence for others to follow. This only leads to covert behaviour that often results in gossip and backbiting in the workplace. Finding that balance between aspiring to high standards, while still respecting our own authenticity, can be difficult at times, but reaching that balance will lead us to freedom from fear, and this is a liberty that every individual and particularly leaders need in order to reach their own and their team's full potential.
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In this age of continued fierce competition, rather than discounting to gain business, perhaps you need to take a closer look at the manifestation of authenticity in how you relate, not just with your staff, but also with your clients. Reflecting this attribute in your business's culture may just be the drawcard that will make the difference. This will require that you ensure your communication is
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professional, thorough and truthful, with clear guidelines of realistic expectations and acknowledgement of where the safety perimeters exist as well as the limitations. In this way your clients will come to trust your word and view your recommendations as trustworthy and professional. Loyalty is a result of trust, and trust, must be earnt through appropriate professional and honest conduct. Make this your value point for which others will seek you out.
APAN's Code of Ethics provides the most credible benchmark for integrity, professionalism and authenticity. If you are not already a financial member, membership to APAN will offer you numerous cost-saving services, professional support and problem-solving solutions. For further information phone the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network 07 5593 0360, or email info@apanetwork.com or web www.apanetwork.com
“I had spent thousands of dollars getting legal advice to address my staffing issues not to mention the stress. Then someone told me about APAN and I spoke to an expert there and immediately realised that I could have access to top information and expert advice so quickly and easily and at a very reasonable rate of just joining as a member. Now when I have a query or a question, I just flick an email to APAN and within the hour I receive expert industry advice or legal advice from their solicitors it's amazing. As a professional I know my information needs to be accurate and credible. Through APAN I have access to not only the best but I also get my needs met fast! Joining was the best decision I ever made. Linda Bentley, NSW “My association with APAN is one that I greatly value. It is exciting to be part of a great organization and a large professional network that can offer me expert support and credible advice. APAN has brought a new level of service that we have not experienced before and they have shown great integrity within the industry. Their commitment and passion for the good of the industry is inspirational. Whenever I have reached out to them they have always been very positive and resourceful. I have also found them very generous in giving above my expectations and helping me achieve my goals. Nella Faraone, Western Australia
It's not what we say about ourselves – it's what others say about us that matters! 㤵 㜵
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“I was going through a major business crisis and it was recommended to me to phone APAN to join and access their mentoring and consulting services. Within half an hour of speaking with Tina Viney I was given immediate expert advice and gained clarity on how to address the issue at hand. Tina presented me with some incredible advice and options that allowed me to solve my issue straight away. To think we can access on industry leader of her calibre for a small yearly fee is amazing. For her wealth of knowledge and expertise I expected to be paying my yearly fee as an hourly rate. I am sold on the value of my membership with APAN.” Jenny Good, ACT
APJ 100
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With a strong motto of members first APAN delivers what it promises. They are committed to your progress. Join the APAN Community of Practices. Invest in membership and reap the rewards. Phone 07 5593 0360.
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productinnovations
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SKIN JET® HYDRA-DERMABRASION No more crystals – JUST WATER
TULIP YOUNG AGAIN® State-of-the-art unique LED Young Again® Technology is simple, non-invasive and extremely effective medically developed LED light therapy for ageing and damaged skin. With state-of-the-art LED technology the Young Again® is one of the latest skincare treatments to assist in energising, repairing and renewing skin cells. Furthermore, it will stimulate collagen and elastin production, giving the skin a more youthful appearance. Different wavelengths generated by Young Again® Technology targets specific skin concerns and conditions. In just 15minute treatments effective tightening and toning of the skin can be achieved, with dramatic reduction and improvement in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, crow's-feet and age spots on face, décolletage and hands. Both the treatment and the results with Young Again® are fast.
The SKIN JET® Hydra-Dermabrasion is a patented multi-functional device for skin and body concerns. The Skin Jet® has been engineered and manufactured in Germany. It is a non-surgical, non-invasive treatment for the face, neck and décolletage that combines water, ultrasound in the magnetic field and LED light to activate the skin's own natural healing process to achieve amazing multi-benefits to the skin of lifting, toning, tightening and exfoliation. High-tech ceramic heads greatly enhance the transmission of ultrasonic energy into the dermis, allowing deeper penetration of active ingredients. The Skin Jet has disposable exfoliating discs, which make it hygienic and simple to use.
Phone Medical Formulations 07 3376 7998.
Phone Medical Formulations 07 3376 7998.
All In One Balm SPF 15 Moisture | Prime | Cover | Enhance | Protect 㤵 㜵
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These days everyone is looking for ways to simplify their busy routines, and this includes their skincare routines. Multi-functionality skincare products cater for this situation and are the latest trend in consumer preference. If you want a quick tinted, moisturising and SPF product after cleansing, use Ultraderm All-In-One Balm SPF 15. This five in one product will moisturise, prime, cover, enhance and protect your skin in one easy step. Apply extra as required if you need extra coverage or use under foundation as a concealing primer or under a mineral powder for a flawless finish. It is available in three shades (nude, honey and latte) to suit all skins, and comes in a handy 30ml tube, which is small enough to travel everywhere.
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For further information contact Ultraderm 1300 660 297.
APJ 101
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OTOS IPL Shutter Glasses from The Global Beauty Group – A BRAND-NEW VISION OTOS IPL Shutter Glasses from The Global Beauty Group present an exciting development in operational safety and vision-enhancement for professional IPL technicians. When it comes to IPL treatments eye protection is essential, and OTOS IPL Shutter Glasses make it easier than ever to practise safe and effective IPL sessions without compromising your view of the treatment being conducted. The stand-out feature of the glasses is the auto-darkening function. The battery-powered LCD sensor auto detects the surrounding conditions and adjusts the shade of the glasses for the clearest field of vision, combined with maximum protection for the operator. Technicians can operate with maximum protection, increased line of vision and reduced operator fatigue thanks to the brand-new, cutting-edge design of this essential treatmentroom tool.
For more information on OTOS IPL Shutter Glasses from The Global Beauty Group visit http://www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au or call 1300 660 687 to speak with a consultant.
Tattoo Removal Laser Spectrum QS Nd:YAG The Spectrum QS Nd:YAG is the perfect machine for removing tattoos effectively and without any scarring or disfigurement of the area. Light is radiated at a specific wavelength of high-peak, ultra-short nanosecond energy pulses. Depending on the ink type and quantity, 1-6 treatments are required for complete removal. Other factors such as the age of the tattoo and quality of ink also affects the number of treatments required. The laser can be switched from 1064nm to 532nm by a simple lens change. The 1064nm wavelength is ideal for all the darker shades of black, blue and purples, etc, while the 532nm lens is used for lighter colours like red, pink and orange. It also works extremely fast, up to 10Hz, which ensures quick treatment times, maximising the number of customers you can treat per day.
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Fractional RF Dana Explore Fractional RF Fractional RF is sweeping the world and growing in popularity daily due to the spectacular outcomes that patients experience. Spectrum Science & Beauty have released two new Fractional RF machines, which include the Spectrum Smooth Fractional RF and the Dana Explore Fractional RF. Both new machines use the latest Fractional RF technology to reshape the face profile, and effectively lift tissues around the eyes and neck including: Skin tightening, face lifting, pore reduction and improved skin texture and tone. It is also effective on acne scars, wrinkle removal around the eyes and mouth as well as the forehead. Fractional RF will also assist in brightening the skin and is also highly effective in treating dull and uneven skin tones. RF technology allows heat to penetrate the dermis with minimal epidermal destruction, resulting in little to no downtime for patients, while resurfacing and tightening skin effectively.
For more information about Spectrum Science & Beauty's Fractional RF range, please visit: www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au or email: sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au or phone: 07 5440 5353
For more information on Spectrum Science & Beauty's laser range visit: www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au or email: sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au or phone: 07 5440 5353
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APJ 102
Mesoéclat®
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A new-generation, immediate-effect skinrejuvenation treatment
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Mesoéclat® treatment works by stimulating the mechanism of the skin, helping combat the skin's ageing process. The treatment acts at a cellular level directly on the signs of fatigued and ageing skin. It helps promote the defence mechanism of the skin and assists in cellular repair, helping to create essential elements for nutrition and optimum moisture levels. The Mesoéclat® method comprises the simultaneous actions of three complementary systems targeted at brightening the skin, facilitating exfoliation of the outer epidermal layers, encouraging deep nourishment of the skin and helping to smooth small facial wrinkles. The treatment is intended for five sessions and includes superficial exfoliating solution, ampoules and recovery and maintenance cream.
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Active ingredients include: Salicylic Acid, Dioic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Urea and Alantoín. The ampoules include Organic silicon, Protocondroitin sulphate, L-carnitine, Alpha-lipoic Acid, and the Maintenance Cream contains Vitamin E, Kojic Acid, Phytic Acid, Lactokine, Dioic Acid, Adenine, Watery Excipient and Phyto tensing agents. Mesoéclat® treatment delivers immediate and visible results, offering clinics and salons assurance for impressive treatment outcomes. For these and other effective treatments and products contact Advanced Cosmeceuticals Ph: 1800 242 011.
Bring relief to painful procedures with LMX4® LMX4® is liposomal lignocaine 4% – fast-acting topical anaesthetic cream with an excellent safety profile. It is used to reduce the pain associated with medical and cosmetic procedures such as laser, IPL, skin needling and dermal rolling, simple excisions, cosmetic tattoo, injectibles and fillers or IV canulation, blood smapling. It does this by numbing the skin within 30 minutes of application.
LMX4® DELIVERS FOUR KEY BENEFITS: 1. 2. 3. 4.
FAST – effective from 30 minutes WELL TOLERATED – low incidents of erythema EFFECTIVE – good pain control If you would like to order LMX4® please call Dermocosmètica on 03 9386 3503. ENHANCED PENETRATION
POWER HYALURONIC for effectively boosting skin hydration
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As we known hyaluronic acid plays a key role in the skin's hydration levels and in supporting the skin's plumpness and volume. For this reason it is a common ingredient in volumising injectibles. Now a new formula, POWER HYALURONIC developed by Skyndor, uses advanced technology to deliver valuable hyaluronic acid to the deeper layers of the skin through various molecular weights that allow for a better, more efficient penetration. Power Hyaluronic will effectively penetrate the skin, but can also be infused into the skin through Mesoscience technology as an added ammunition against dehydration and ageing skin.
Phone Vogue Image Group on 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033.
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APJ 103
keyingredient 㤵
The Benefits of Himalayan Salt
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By Tina Viney 㜵
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As much of my work requires that I spend countless hours on the computer it stands to reason that increased weight is an ongoing challenge. One of the areas of conventional weight-loss recommendations is that you minimise the intake of salt because of its tendency to retain fluid in the body. However, food, without salt is void of flavour, and flavour is paramount to the enjoyment of food and particularly when you are minimising portions for weight-loss purposes.
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Recent studies, however, have confirmed the enormous difference between table salt and Himalayan crystal salt. If you are not aware of these you will be amazed at the difference. Himalayan salt is also rich in minerals and therefore very flavorsome – a little can go a long way. However, if you are purchasing this rock salt it is important to understand that it can damage your grinder very quickly because it is extremely hard. It is best therefore to get the pink, granulated option for this purpose. But let's now look at what is so special about this amazing mineral. Himalayan crystal salt is far superior to traditional iodised salt. It is millions of years old and pure, untouched by many of the toxins and pollutants that pervade other forms of ocean salt. Known in the Himalayas as “white gold”, Himalayan salt contains the same 84 natural minerals and elements found in the human body. This form of salt has also been maturing over the past 250 million years under intense tectonic pressure, creating an environment of zero exposure to toxins and impurities. Himalayan salt's unique cellular structure allows it to store vibrational energy. Its minerals exist in a colloidal form, meaning that they are tiny enough for our cells to easily absorb.
HIMALAYAN CRYSTAL SALT: THE HEALTH BENEFITS The health benefits of using natural pink Himalayan salt are as follows: ! Create an electrolyte balance – controlling the water levels within the body, regulating them for proper functioning
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Increases hydration Regulate water content both inside and outside of cells Balance pH (alkaline/acidity) and help to reduce acid reflux Prevent muscle cramping Aid in proper metabolism functioning Encouraging excellent blood sugar health Increases bone strength Lower blood pressure Help the intestines absorb nutrients Prevent goiters Improve circulation Dissolve and eliminate sediment to remove toxins Aiding vascular health Supporting healthy respiratory function Lowers incidence of sinus problems, and promoting overall sinus health Naturally promoting healthy sleep patterns Creating a healthy libido Promotes kidney and gall bladder health – when compared to
WHY TABLE SALT IS NOT BENEFICIAL Many people are unaware that common table salt contains chemicals and even sugar! Salt is necessary, but can be dangerous if taken in this chemical form. Table salt is composed of 97.5% sodium chloride and 2.5% chemicals like iodine and absorbents, and sugar. Common salt is dried at more than 1,200° Fahrenheit, a process that zaps many of the natural chemical structures. The table and cooking salt found in most homes, restaurants and processed foods is void of nutritional value, lacking beneficial trace minerals. Processing salt turns it into sodium chloride, an unnatural salt the human body actually sees as a toxic invader! The body cannot dispose of it in a natural, healthy way, which can lead to irritation of the tissues, water retention and high blood pressure. Processed salt crystals are also energetically dead, as their crystals are completely isolated from one another. For the body to metabolise chemical table salt it must waste tremendous amounts of energy to keep the body at optimum fluid balance. This creates a burden on the elimination systems in the body. Water is removed from other cells in an attempt to neutralise the unnatural sodium chloride. Studies show that for each gram of table salt your system cannot process your body will use over 20 times the amount of cellular water to neutralise the sodium chloride in chemically treated salt. This can lead to cellulite, rheumatism, arthritis, gout, as well as kidney and gallbladder stones. The average Australian consumes approximately 4-5,000 mg of sodium chloride a day through direct or indirect means via processed foods.
Choosing to use Himalayan salt as an alternative can have a big impact on your total health and wellbeing.
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FURTHER RESEARCH http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2011/09/20/salt-myth.aspx http://www.himalayancrystalsalt.com/clinical-research.html http://pyramidvt.blogspot.com.au/2011/04/scientific-research-on-use-ofhimalayan.html
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common chemically treated salt
APJ 104
skiningredient 㤵 㜵
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LAURIC ACID: Offering new hope for acne and problematic skin
Lauric Acid is a building block of proteins or an amino acid. Made up of a chain of 12 carbon atoms, the nutrient is abundant in coconut oil, palm kernel oil and laurel oil. The substance is also found in plants in the lauraceae or laurel genus and in small amounts in the milk of cows and goats as well as in human breast milk. The discovery of lauric acid is credited to T. Marsson, who published a study on the amino acid in 1849. As an ingredient in the cosmetics and skin and hair care industries, lauric acid has both proven and experimental uses. Generally, the amino acid is well tolerated when applied to the skin and not likely to cause redness, itching, swelling or other types of irritation. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration lists lauric acid as “Generally Regarded as Safe”, and the leading cosmetics safety evaluation panel, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, has found that lauric acid is not a safety concern when used at the doses common in skin and hair care products.
KNOWN BY OTHER NAMES When looking for Lauric Acid in skincare you may find it referred as any of the following names: Acide Laurique, Acide N-dodécanoïque, Ácido Láurico, Coconut Oil Extract, Extrait d'Huile de Noix de Coco, Ndodecanoic Acid or, N-alkanoic Acid.
USES OF LAURIC ACID
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As a child, Richard was plagued with acne and blemished skin. This fuelled his passion to find a solution. His ongoing search eventually became the catalyst to him pursuing further studies and eventually developing his own successful skincare range. An excellent educator, Parker is highly respected as a credible formulator of clinical skincare and is a regular speaker at many cosmetic medical conferences.
WHAT IS LAURIC ACID?
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At the recent Cosmetex Conference a lecture was presented by Richard Parker on the benefits of Lauric Acid in treating acne and problematic skin. Richard is the owner and formulator of the skincare range known as Rationale – an Australia product range that is available by “prescription only” through cosmetic medical clinics and boasts a loyal client base of plastic surgeons and cosmetic physicians.
Lauric Acid is a relative newcomer to the clinical cosmetic industry, even though it has been used in small quantities in the past in numerous skincare products for its antibacterial properties. With an interesting chemistry it is a valuable ingredient that we believe will feature more prominently in skincare formulations, particularly as scientific research validates its benefits.
Lauric acid is sometimes recommended for the treatment of cold sores and fever blisters on the lips and is included in some topical products designed to treat outbreaks of these conditions. Cold sores and fever blisters are caused by viruses, which do not respond to antibiotics. Studies suggest that lauric acid breaks down the oily cellular membranes of viral cells similarly to the way the fatty
acid disrupts the shape of oil molecules on the skin or scalp. The breakdown of the viral cells results in their death, allowing cold sores and fever blisters to heal more quickly. Studies have also found that lauric acid may have the ability to destroy other microbes that have oily components in their cellular makeup. Evidence suggests that lauric acid may make an effective treatment for ringworm, a circular, itchy skin rash caused by an overgrowth of fungus. The fatty acid may also be beneficial for skin rashes on the underarms, groin and feet that are caused by yeast.
HOW LAURIC ACID BENEFITS ACNE-PRONE SKIN A newer potential use for lauric acid involves addressing blemish-prone skin. Questions as to whether or not the ingredient could be useful for controlling acne breakouts were first raised by a study completed in 2009, which found that the substance had the potential to destroy a type of bacteria known as Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes). Acne blemishes often arise due to the colonisation of P. acnes bacteria in the pores, which lead to infections and inflammation. Doctors sometimes prescribe topical antibiotics for treating acne; however, some people with sensitive skin are unable to use these creams and lotions due to their potential to irritate the skin. In addition, doctors are often hesitant to prescribe antibiotics for prolonged periods of time, as research has found that the extended use of these medications can make them less effective if they are needed to combat serious infections later in life. New research conducted at the University of California, San Diego discovered that saturated fatty acid, Lauric Acid (C12.0) has been shown to possess antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties against P-acnes. The anti-inflammatory effect may partially occur through the inhibition of NF-kB activation and the phosphorylation of MAP kinases. Lauric Acid has also been shown not to induce cytotoxicity in human sebacytes. This makes Lauric Acid an optimal alternative antibacterial treatment for acne vulgaris. Niacinamide found in Vitamin B3 is now also used in conjunction with acne therapy for its sebo-regulating and anti-inflammatory properties.
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Lauric Acid is now considered a scientifically validated ingredient for the treatment of P. acnes. ㈵
Reference reading:
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11160540
APJ 105
lighttechnology
“NASA LED” in 1998 by Whelan and colleagues, which was many orders of magnitude more powerful than existing LEDs, and was extremely narrow-band, offering laser-like target selectivity.
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Dr Calderhead was the first to champion the introduction of near-infrared 830 nm as an LED wavelength in addition to refining therapeutic approaches with existing wavelengths. He is now an internationally recognised authority on all aspects of phototherapy.
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Why is LED so valuable in Aesthetics and Cosmetic Medicine?
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Currently based in South Korea as VicePresident, Scientific Affairs, of the Lutronic Corporation, Dr Calderhead still travels worldwide lecturing on all aspects of phototherapy and photosurgery as a prolific lecturer at national and international congresses, having given over 300 keynote and special invited lectures over the past 30 years. He has published a number of scientific papers and is the co-author of and contributor to several books on laser therapy, laser surgery and simulation surgery.
Since 2009 he has been involved with Lutronic Corporate, based in Korea, and is responsible for helping to design and run clinical trials involving a large variety of lasers, light-based and energy-based devices. He is also in partnership with global marketing and product management functions to ensure high levels of scientific accuracy, and is heavily involved in education of both internal staff and external users, including clinicians, nurses and other professional paramedical personnel in laser and light biomedicine.
An interview with Dr R Glen Calderhead PhD For several years I have been aware of Dr Glen Calderhead's reputation as an authority in phototherapy technology, but had never met him. At the recent Cosmetex Conference I had the privilege to speak with him and interview him to capture some of his knowledge, in particular on the benefits of LED light in our industry.
WHO IS DR CALDERHEAD? Dr Calderhead's amazing career spans over 40 years. He was born in Scotland where he attended the University of Glasgow. He holds a Master of Science Degree (Medical Science) as well as doctorate degrees in Medical Science (Photobiology) and a PhD (photomedicine and photosurgery).
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In 1977, while subsequently working in Japan, he met Dr Toshio Ohshiro, a pioneer of laser surgery both in Japan and worldwide, and by 1978 he was working with the Japan Medical Laser Laboratory and the Ohshiro Clinic of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. After a fiveyear spell (1982-1987) in the USA with the newly formed Laserscope (KTP 532) company in Silicon Valley, Dr Calderhead returned to Japan and worked again with Dr Ohshiro, concentrating on research into and application of the therapeutic laser. This culminated in 1988 in the publication by the renowned medicoscientific publishers John Wiley and Sons, Chichester, UK, of the first of a series of books dedicated to phototherapy by Ohshiro and Calderhead, Low Level Laser Therapy: A Practical Introduction. The terminology ' low level laser therapy', or LLLT, first coined by Calderhead, was thus introduced into the medicoscientific literature. As light-emitting diodes (LEDs) have attracted a great deal of attention, LLLT is still the preferred acronym, but now stands for lowlevel LIGHT therapy, thus encompassing all light sources used in phototherapy. Dr Calderhead became interested in LEDs as a valid phototherapeutic light source following the development of the
Among his many credentials Dr Calderhead is also a multi-linguist. Other than English he also speaks Japanese, Russian, French, Korean and Spanish.
APJ Q1: Dr Calderhead, can you please give us a brief history of LED light? Dr Calderhead: Prior to 1998 LED was considered a cheap, bright, totally, non-coherent, wide wave band with non-target specific wavelength. However, unless your wavelength is specified in phototherapy you cannot get results – this is very much an important issue. In 1998 NASA space medicine laboratories developed a new generation of high-emitting diode, new generation, low-level light therapy (LLLT) LED. Compared to existing LEDs this was 100,000 times stronger, with stable output and quasi-monochromatic. This meant that 95% of photons were at exactly the right specified wavelength, which is highly significant. When dealing with the skin, cell target is needed to activate the mitochondria energy centre of the cell. To activate the mitochondria you have to activate the cytochrome c oxidases and at 633nm that is the activation peak. If it is 700nm, for example, it is nowhere near as important. Matching wavelengths to the chromophore to get the best reaction is not possible, so Professor Harry Whelan developed the NASA LED that gave us a new phototherapy source. Now phototherapy LED can offer us major advantages compared to say diode lasers. For example:
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APJ 106
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They are extremely efficient at developing light with little power They are a solid state, no flash lamp with no filament and no heat energy lost. Because they are mounted on a large arm area they can cover large body areas in a single treatment and can be used in a hands-free manner LED are comparatively inexpensive and this is good both for the clinician and for the patient to access them LED is a pains-free treatment with no risks or side-effects. It is well tolerated by patients of all ages.
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APJ Q2: Should LED be used pre or after laser treatments? Dr Calderhead: It is important to understand that low-level light therapy (LLLT) LED works as a stand-alone treatment, but is also an excellent adjunct therapy to any other procedure e.g. after a surgical procedure LED will significantly cut healing time by half. LED will also help reduce pain, reduces oedema and erythema.
APJ Q3: How do the various colours of LED work? Dr Calderhead: Blue LED at a 633nm wavelength is good for acne as it kills bacteria through endogenous photodynamic therapy and in that way it reduces inflammation. Acne is also an auto-immune disorder and it will also benefit from 830nm near infrared light as red works on the blood and lymphatics regulating the autoimmune system and reducing inflammation. 830nm does all that and penetrates deeper than other wavelengths. For this reason for acne and problematic skin I advise that you recommend eight treatments, two times a week, and use the red and blue LED alternatively. You can also use 610nm orange light, but the 633nm is ideal to deliver cytochrome c oxidases. Green LED does not penetrate deep enough as it can only reach to the epidermis. Cells like constant information so they prefer a continuous wavelength light on them all the time rather than changing wavelengths with different colours, but for acne, I do recommend the blue and the near infra red. For skin rejuvenation and wound healing 830nm target all the necessary cells to speed up healing – mast cells, macrophages and neutriphils, all of which are known for their immunoresponse activities. Whether you are seeking wound healing or skin rejuvenation 830nm near infrared is excellent for healing, stimulating collagen formation, plumping the skin and renewing the elastin fibres. 830nm will do all that.
APJ Q4: When should LED be used and what can be expected from this treatment? Dr Calderhead: LED or photo-dynamic therapy is excellent pre and post treatment to other modalities such as IPL, Laser, skin needling or other skin-rejuvenation procedures.
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In the past decade, phototherapy with light-emitting diodes (LEDs) has attracted a great deal of attention, with an increasing body of evidence proving efficacy and demonstrating mechanisms of action. Low-level light therapy (LLLT) with LEDs at the wavelength of 830 nm offers many applications as monotherapy, but has even more exciting potential in accelerating the wound-healing process after any aesthetic intervention, surgical or non-surgical
In terms of the impact of LED-LLLT and wound healing research confirmed some interesting findings.
The wound-healing cells at all three stages of wound healing respond to 830 nm LLLT. During the inflammatory stage, photoactivated mast cells degranulate to release cytokines to both support and then quench the inflammatory reaction together with trophic factors; macrophages then work harder and faster to clean up the extracellular matrix, and release fibroblast growth factor: Leukocytes are then recruited into the irradiated tissue, and release transforming growth factor a and p. However, during the proliferative phase, activated fibroblasts create more and better-organised collagen and elastin and endotheliocytes repair damaged or compromised vasculature, and form new blood vessels if required. 830 nm treated fibroblasts transform to myofibroblasts faster, starting the remodelling stage earlier and delivering a better-organised extracellular matrix. At all stages during the trials it was detected that epidermal keratinocytes synthesise more ATP and cell signalling compounds, some of which ensure a revitalised epidermis, while others drop into the dermis and help to accelerate the wound-healing process. The research results concluded that in addition to its powerful ability to enhance the wound-healing process and cut it by around onehalf, non-invasive 830 nm LED-LLLT increases local blood flow, limits bruising and dramatically reduces post-procedural oedema, erythema and pain. Because of this, 830 nm LED-LLLT can be used to enhance the results after any existing aesthetic intervention, from the mildest epidermal powder peel to the most invasive surgical face lift. Patients see better results, faster. The study further concluded that 830 nm LED-LLLT is easy to apply in a hands-free manner, is well-tolerated by patients of all ages and skin type, is non-invasive, pain-free and side-effect free. LED phototherapy systems are comparatively inexpensive because of the technology on which they are based, but the potential buyer should always be aware that criteria exist regarding wavelength and intensity that must be met before LED-LLLT can fulfil its full potential as an excellent adjunctive tool for the aesthetic and cosmetic clinician.
Lutronic LED devices are distributed in Australia by Advanced Cosmeceuticals 1800 242 011.
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REFERENCES 830 nm LED PHOTOTHERAPY: UNLOCK THE POWER OF THE WOUND HEALING CELLS International Research and Development Center, Clinique L, Goyang, South Korea Dr R Glen Calderhead, 219 Sowon-ro, Doegyang-gu Goyang city, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea 412-223
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APJ 107
companyprofile 㤵 㜵
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MESOESTETIC
Delivering premium grade COSMECEUTICALS When you only trust the best
In 2011, mesoestetic Pharma Group inaugurated its current facilities, and with an area spanning 8,500 m2, it shows a clear commitment to growth and excellence. The new headquarters house separate lines for the production of cosmeceutics, medications and medical devices for intradermal application, and has a state-of-the-art biotechnology division. mesoestetic thus completes the circle, integrating the ability to research even more efficient active ingredients and manufacturing cutting-edge products with proven efficiency. In less than 30 years the company has become a multinational firm of reference in the medical cosmetics sector and has been strengthening its international presence. In 2012, 88% of its sales were exported and its products and treatments are sold in more than 60 countries on all five continents, most notably in USA, Brazil, Singapore, Italy, the Philippines, Australia, Chile and Mexico.
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mesoestetic Pharma Group is a pharmaceutical laboratory of worldwide reference in the medical cosmetics sector that offers the most innovative and efficient solutions for skin treatment and care. Its origins date back to 1984 when, from his pharmacy in the centre of Barcelona, Joan Carles Font started to develop his own cosmetics. Since its founding, the company has been committed to developing and marketing high-quality products with scientifically proven results and whose manufacturing and control processes are regulated by stringent pharmaceutical protocols. Its growth is linked to its ongoing efforts in research, to which 40% of profits are dedicated, and its collaboration with hospitals, universities and renowned specialists in the sector who collaborate on researching into new treatments.
The company continues to strive day after day to reach maximum excellence. Thanks to mesoestetic products’ efficiency, safety and quality aesthetic professionals and end user clients, including celebrities such as Madonna, Beyoncé, Charlize Theron and Princess Beatriz D'orleans trust the brand all over the world.
In Australia, the product is available to cosmetic medical clinics and to qualified dermal and aesthetic therapists.
For further information contact
1800 242 011 or 08 9409 5433.
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APJ 108
privacylaws
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NEW PRIVACY LAWS THAT WILL AFFECT YOUR BUSINESS By Tina Viney On March 12 this year a new set of privacy principles regarding the handling of personal information came into effect. These are the Australian Privacy Principles. The big changes relate to how businesses handle, use and store personal information and engage in direct marketing. These are the largest reforms to privacy law in more than 10 years. If your business is affected, you need to comply or face the legal consequences. The Privacy Amendment (Enhancing Privacy Protection) Act 2012 (Privacy Amendment Act) made many significant changes to the Privacy Act 1988 (Privacy Act). These changes commenced on 12 March 2014. The Privacy Regulation 2013, made under the Privacy Act, also commenced on 12 March 2014. The fundamental change is now there are 13 Australian Privacy Principles (APPs), replacing both the previous Information Privacy Principles (IPPs) and the National Privacy Principles (NPPs). So now is the time to update your privacy policy, procedures and systems to ensure your business complies. If you do not have a Privacy Policy in your business you can purchase one from APAN. However, here is a brief outline of just some of the changes. 㤵 㜵
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DO PRIVACY LAWS APPLY TO MY BUSINESS? Your business will be affected by the changes to the privacy laws if you handle personal information and you generate more than $3 million in annual turnover or generate less than $3 million but you fit under a second set of criteria. Of this second set of criteria, the one that is most likely to affect small businesses is “trading in personal information”.
DOES YOUR BUSINESS TRADE IN PERSONAL INFORMATION? Many small businesses trade in personal information. This is information that identifies, or could reasonably identify, an individual. This includes names, addresses, dates of birth and bank account details. Trading in personal information includes collecting or providing personal information to a third party for a benefit, service or advantage. Are you collecting personal information then providing it to a business to manage your direct marketing? Are you using customer data to cross-sell products or services from a partner business? If so you may be trading in personal information. In the aesthetics industry we do collect personal data from our clients so this would apply to you if you are doing so. Furthermore, those who engage external contractors such as a doctor coming into your premises to do injectibles will also qualify, as you are forwarding to them information on your clients.
WHAT ARE THE KEY REFORMS? The key reforms relevant to small businesses, particularly in the online space, require:
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that your privacy policy addresses specific topics that you have procedures and systems in place to ensure you comply with the new law
The other big change is that there are fines for breaching the news laws for serious or repeated breaches of the Privacy Act. Companies face fines of up to $1.7 million, sole traders and entities that are not companies face fines of up to $340,000. So these fines are a strong incentive to comply with privacy laws.
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HOW DO I COMPLY? Our key tips for small businesses to comply are straightforward and easy to implement: ! Do a quick audit: Review your business to identify where and
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how you deal with personal information. Get a system in place: Establish or revise procedures and systems so your staff that handle personal information comply with the privacy law changes. Provide a privacy notice: When you collect personal information, inform individuals of details including your business's name, contact details, the purpose of collection and to whom it will be disclosed. Sort out your privacy policy: Make sure your privacy policy addresses the required topics. These include what personal information you collect, how you collect it and the purposes for which you use and disclose it. If you disclose personal information to parties overseas you need to disclose that and, if practicable, specify the countries where those parties are located. Finally, you need to set out how you secure and store personal information.
HOW DO THE CHANGES AFFECT DIRECT MARKETING? You can use personal information for direct marketing if your business collected it, you disclose that you may use it for direct marketing and you provide a way for people to unsubscribe. What if the personal information was provided to you by a third party? You can use it for direct marketing if the individual consented to that use, and you provide a way for people to
unsubscribe. The third party who collected the information needs to obtain consent.
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WHAT RIGHTS DOES AN INDIVIDUAL HAVE?
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These are clear and obvious. You need to give individuals the right to access their personal information and correct out of date or incorrect information. You need a process to deal with complaints about your compliance with the Australian Privacy Principles. If you send direct marketing material, you need to give each individual a way to optout.
TO WRAP UP
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The Privacy Act has been around for many years – it's just had a revamp. Complying is not difficult. Follow these tips to get your privacy policy in order and have procedures and systems to comply with the new law. Alternatively, you can contact APAN and purchase a copy of the Privacy Policy, which has been revised to meet the requirements of the Australian Privacy Principles and how they apply to our industry. It pays to ensure you are compliant as if not compliant you will incur penalties.
If you would like an updated PRIVACY ACT POLICY document for your business APAN has developed one and is available for purchase at a small fee. Cost to non-members is $150 and to APAN members $99. Phone 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com. If emailing please include your full name and phone number so that we can contact you with further information.
THE PERSONAL APPROACH IN MARKETING – POSTCARDS APAN have designed a collection of some 14 cards and gift vouchers that are niche, personalised and high-quality. Themed Gift Vouchers include Mother's Day, Just for Him for Father's Day, Christmas Day, Valentine's Day and a generic one that just says With Love. They are attractive and enticing. We also have postcards for you to wish your clients a Happy Birthday, Thank You for new clients and we also have two cards for clients you have not seen for some time. Visit www.apanetwork.com to see the full collection. Purchase 50 for just $40 or 100 for $70 and we will send them to you free of postage and handling. Phone 07 5593 0360 to place your order.
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Scan to see APAN’s complete range of cards for you to order. ㈵
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skintreatments
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Exploring the PEELING FACTOR By Tina Viney A healthy natural exfoliation of the skin is one of the keys to maintaining healthy, functioning skin. The skin naturally reproduces cells and brings healthy, new skin to the surface while regularly shedding the dead, outermost layer. However, as we age, or if the skin is disturbed through disorders of diseases the shedding mechanism can become disrupted, causing an abnormal buildup of cells.
NATURAL EXFOLIANTS
As a skincare professional, you know that assisting this exfoliation process can help to improve texture and tone, lighten pigmentation, unclog pores, give a clearer complexion, a reduction in acne breakouts and in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. In addition, exfoliating the skin assists in allowing optimal penetration of any active ingredient.
The simplest form of exfoliation is available through natural scrubs that basically scrub away the dead skin cells. Sugar, salt, coffee, walnuts and almonds provide the loosening action of the scrub. Oilabsorbing scrubs often contain clays such as kaolin or diatomaceous earth. The intensity of the scrub must be appropriate to the sensitivity level of the skin. A gentler scrub should be used on skin that is prone to flushing or inflammation, or has recently been resurfaced or waxed.
The effects of exfoliation are immediately visible. This makes it very appealing to today's consumers, who expect every marketing promise to be met. A single exfoliation service is sure to deliver a “wow” factor for your clients.
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Because of their highly absorbing capabilities and drawing action clay masks can also be used as a form of exfoliation. Applied to a clean skin, when dried they adhere to the skin, allowing dead cells to be exfoliated upon removal and can work to refresh the skin, particularly oily skin with overactive sebaceous glands.
However, as a professional skin therapist, it is important to assess your client's skin and determine what form of exfoliation is going to best meet their needs, or if it is needed at all, as some skins may not need mechanical or chemical exfoliation.
MICRODERMABRASIONS – VARIOUS METHODS AND COMBINED TECHNOLOGIES
Assessing contraindications is also important. Considerations such as if the client has been waxed recently, any evidence of sunburn as well as if the client has had any laser or IPL treatments within the last 72 hours. If any of these conditions apply, reschedule the exfoliation treatment. Clients who have recently taken Accutane (Isotretinoin) will also need to wait a minimum of six months before undergoing any
Microdermabrasion, also referred to as micro-resurfacing, is a method for facial rejuvenation that uses a mechanical medium for exfoliation along with adjustable suction to sweep away the outermost layer of dead skin cells from the epidermis. It is a non-invasive procedure and should be performed only after appropriate training, not only for the correct use of the device, but also for determining the safety perimeters of various skin types and needs. It involves fine granules
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form of exfoliation. Pregnancy is another contraindication, as is very sensitive skin, inflamed pustules and open acneic lesions or severe rosacea. It is important to determine these considerations prior to any form of exfoliation procedure.
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that are blasted on to the skin to microscopically “shave” dead cells off the skin. Candidates include individuals struggling with sun damage, acne prone and blotchy skin, fine scars, slight wrinkles, keratoses, large pores, non-inflamed whiteheads caused by keratin-clogged pores, or unfavorable skin texture.
There are two types of devices: 1. Crystal Microdermabrasion is the traditional type that uses fine crystals to smoothen and abrade the skin. With the aid of a powerful vacuum, the shredded dead cells, dirt and used crystals are pulled away to clean and exfoliate the skin. This type of microdermabrasion uses fine crystals such as Aluminum Oxide, Sodium Bicarbonate, Sodium Chloride and Magnesium Oxide. The most commonly used abrasive crystal is the Aluminum Oxide, which is known to be the second-hardest mineral, with diamond as the first. Some practitioners believe that crystals are a more effective abrader compared to diamonds. With its irregular shape and texture, facial resurfacing is easier to achieve.
2. Diamond-tipped Crystal-free Microdermabrasion is the other version of microdermabrasion that uses a diamond-tipped wand to provide skin abrasion and exfoliation. Unlike crystal microdermabrasion this procedure does not use particles to resurface the skin, instead it uses a disposable or reusable diamond-tip wand to abrade the skin. The wands are made in various sizes and textures for different skin types and depths of resurfacing. Some practitioners prefer the diamond tip because it is easier to operate and unlikely to leave stray particles in the eyes, nose or mouth, which can pose risks when ingested or inhaled. Diamond or crystal-free microdermabrasion is not that effective on irregular surfaces because there are no crystals to fit the exact irregularities of the skin. However, it can perform faster, making it ideal for those who want to keep the procedure quick. On the other hand, crystal microdermabrasion is more effective in most skin irregularities because crystals have irregular shapes and textures that could fit on the skin for a more effective exfoliation. Aluminum Oxide crystals also are inert materials, which do not cause any allergic or adverse reactions. They are non-toxic when ingested and are non-carcinogenic.
COMBINED TECHNOLOGIES
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New advances in microdermabasion technology today combine microdermabrasion devices with water or serums application. These are highly effective as they take advantage of the process of dead-cell removal to enhance the infusion of moisture and humectant ingredients into the skin, thus allowing the skin to improve its hydration levels for an immediate, visible skin improvement. Additionally, microdermabrasion that combines hydration mechanisms further assists in reducing redness, soreness, flaking and other common discomforts, making the process an enjoyable experience. Some companies also include microdermabrasion with red LED to further ensure healing and skin repair while removing unwanted dead cells. This is another multifunctionality feature that we will see more of as part of new innovations in technology.
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Another technique is dermaplaning, usilising a small surgical blade to gentle remove the uppermost layer of the skin. This requires
extensive training as it requires exceptional technical control and precision when using this method. Dermaplaning helps even out irregular skin tone and reduces the appearance of scars, and is used with glycolic acid. However, due to Health Regulation restrictions I am not aware of its use in Australia, and certainly not among aestheticians.
ENZYMATIC EXFOLIATIONS
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Enzymes, vitamins, acid-free smoothing agents or other active ingredients are often valuable for skin in need of deeper exfoliation, or skin conditions that are contraindicated with physical exfoliation. Enzymes are excellent for all skin types, particularly acneic skin in need of extractions, as well as dry, sensitive skin. They also make a great complement to chemical peels. Their point of difference is that they are selective in breaking down dead cells rather than randomly targeting any cell. Enzymes speed up the skin's natural exfoliating process by nibbling away at the keratinised protein layer, which forms a hard coating on an aged cell. Mature skin, which experiences a natural slowing of cell turnover that results in a rough feel or lifeless, dull skin, is ideally treated with proteolytic enzymes such as bromelain, papain and pumpkin. Most enzymes are activated by water, which makes them effective at maintaining hydration within the skin. While they are often derived from natural ingredients, they can be formulated to be quite potent and effective exfoliants for clinical results.
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One of the most common types of exfoliation is performed with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Both acids work by gently dissolving the outermost layers of skin. The difference between them is that AHAs are water soluble and do not penetrate as deeply as BHAs, which are oil soluble. AHAs are generally good at eliminating dead cells on the skin's surface, while the oil solubility of BHAs make them better for clearing up clogged pores. AHAs and BHAs can both be used in the form of serums, exfoliants or professional chemical peels. Their performance is determined by their percentage and their pH. The percentage identifies the product's strength, while the pH determines how deeply it penetrates. AHAs and BHAs exfoliate skin due to their acidic component, however, their pH is critical to their performance. To select a chemical peeling agent for your clients, use the Fitzpatrick classification system, and consider the overall condition of the skin and any related concerns. AHAs are the most prominent acids derived from fruits, nuts, milks and sugars. They help promote cell desquamation, and break down the bonds between the desmosomes, which allows for easier exfoliation of dead surface cells.
The following is a list of different sources of AHAs (Alpha hydroxy acids): Glycolic acid: Derived from sugars, this is one of the most common AHAs. It is appealing due to its small molecular size and multifunctional approach on the skin. It is effective at controlling sebum production. Lactic acid: Derived from milk and sugars, this is probably the second most common of the AHAs. It is considered to be a gentler alternative to glycolic acid, due to its larger molecular structure. Lactic acid not only helps soften rough skin by breaking the bonds of the desmosomes, it can also increase hydration, inhibit pigmentation and adjust pH levels. Malic acid: Derived from apples and green grapes, this acid is a multifunctional AHA that also acts as an antioxidant and humectant. It is soothing and beneficial to sensitive skin types that cannot tolerate glycolic acid. Citric acid: Derived from citrus fruits and corn, vitamin C is typically considered in a class of its own. It technically belongs to the AHA
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family. This AHA is also an antioxidant that is used to help brighten the skin and increase epidermal thickness. Mandelic acid: Derived from bitter almonds, this AHA is comprised of a large form molecule that allows for slow and even penetration. Exfoliation with mandelic acid is more gentle and delicate for sensitive skin types. It helps brighten discoloration and contains antibacterial properties that aid in acne control. Jessner solutions: A blend of resorcinol, salicylic acids and lactic acids, this combination can effectively target a range of skin concerns such as acneic, sensitive and even irregular pigmentation. Modified Jessner solutions generally are comprised of lactic acid, salicylic acid and either citric acid or other botanical extracts.
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BETA HYDROXY ACIDS BHAs function and perform similar to AHAs. Salicylic acid is a BHA derived from willow tree bark, wintergreen oil and sweet birch, which was used as an anti-inflammatory in ancient times. Since it is lipophyllic (attracted to oil) in nature, it has the ability to penetrate through the oils in the skin and clear out follicles of excess debris and skin cells. This makes it especially effective in the treatment of acneic skin conditions. Salicylic acid tends to be less irritating to some skin types, and may be a good alternative for clients who have not tolerated AHAs well.
HERBAL PEELS Herbal Peels is a natural herbal peeling treatment containing an individually blended combination of powerful natural herbs that work synergistically to stimulate the renewal of the skin's cells from the inside out. They create a progressive exfoliation process. The full effect of skin renewal takes approximately five days and the skin is then supported with an appropriate home skincare program to further feed the skin and assist in the skin-renewal process. While this is an exfoliation treatment, it is not an AHA treatment.
WHAT HAPPENS NEXT The issue of exfoliation procedures for skin improvement has both advocates as well of those who oppose it in the belief that we must be careful not to damage the epidermis by disturbing its protective function. So how does skin repair itself when the epidermis is damaged? Actually, it is not that difficult for the skin to repair itself when the epidermis is damaged, the difficulty happens when the dermis is damaged. The epidermis is avascular, meaning it does not contain blood vessels and therefore does not bleed. Epidermal wounds only involve minor damage to the superficial epidermal cells, although the centre of the wound could extend slightly into the dermis. This type of wound includes minor abrasions, where a portion of the skin has been wiped away, as also in minor burns. 㤵 㜵
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In response to an epidermal injury, basal cells from the deepest layer of the epidermis surrounding the wound break off from the basement membrane – the epidermal, dermal junction. The cells then enlarge and migrate across the wound. Migration of the cells stops when each cell is finally in contact with other epidermal cells on all sides. As the basal epidermal cells migrate, a hormone called epidermal growth factor stimulates basal cells to divide and replace those who have left to fill in the wound. The relocated basal epidermis cells divide to build new strata, thus thickening the new epidermis and voila, the skin is repaired!
In view of these considerations what precautionary measure should be adhered to when exfoliating the skin? There are two approaches that are now considered standard protocols. First, with chemical peels where the pH of the skin is reduced to a very acid state (as low as 3pH and in some instance even 1 to 2pH) it is important that the skin's pH balance is quickly restored after the treatment has been terminated. What this means is that care should be taken to completely remove the peeling solutions with water, followed by neutralising the skin's pH to its balanced state, which is a value of 5-6 on the pH scale. Failure to do this will mean that the peeling agent may continue to break down the skin. When this occurs studies have shown that long term this can lead to eventually ageing the skin. As we saw above any damage to the skin requires the activity of epidermal growth factors to stimulate basal cells to divide and repair the skin. We now know the importance that supporting skin repair is paramount after such procedures as microdermabrasion, skin peels, skin needling, IPL or laser, therefore skin serums and products that contain epidermal growth facts should be included as part of the cells’ recovery after such treatments. The practice of just applying a sunblock after a skin peel or microdermabrasion is now considered inadequate. We now have study results that point to new protocols for best practice and improved treatment outcomes.
STAYING UP-TO-DATE While exfoliants are very much still centre-stage in skin improvement and rejuvenation, new information that is coming to light is identifying new and better ways to achieve better results. As a qualified aesthetic or dermal therapist it is important that you constantly invest in bringing your knowledge up-to-date. Likewise staff members should also be well educated on not only the new protocols, but also the reasons for them. Whatever brand you choose to use, make sure you gain appropriate and adequate training from your supplier on the safety perimeters and the precise treatment protocols required for their use. Additionally, you should also gain as much objective education as possible in understanding any scientific studies that offer information on any new discoveries that shed further light on how ingredients as well as technologies actually work on and within the skin.
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starperformer
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REBIRTHING of the Youthful Eyes Eyes are by far the first feature that we notice when we look at someone – that is why there is so much effort given to making them more beautiful. Companies rival each other in developing innovations such as mascaras, lash growth serum, not to mention lash extensions. There is no doubt that the youthfulness of the eyes is an irresistible feature. But what about the delicate skin area? Now Bioelements has introduced QUICK REFINER FOR EYES. This formula refines the entire eye area with a multi-level approach. It simultaneously removes dead and dulling skin cells, speeding up cell turnover as it hydrates, soothes, strengthens and protects the thinnest skin of your entire eyes, “waking up” fatigued, ageing eyes to a more youthful appearance.
KEY INGREDIENTS The Exfoliators: Containing a blend of enzymes and several different alpha-hydroxy acids that work together to remove dead and dull skin cells, speed up cell renewal and jump-start sluggish skin around the eyes. Actives include:
THE SOOTHERS/STRENGTHENERS QUICK REFINER FOR EYES has several built-in “buffers” – natural botanicals that moisturise, support and calm the skin during and after the exfoliation process. Their job is to work together to discourage inflammation, redness and promote skin healing. Actives include:
Hydrolised Linseed Extract: This natural extract works in two ways; it provides a protective microfilm on the skin's surface, giving it a satiny effect, then penetrates to remove redness and discourage skin irritation by inhibiting the initial receptors that lead to cellular inflammation soothing, while at the same time protecting the skin.
Aloe Vera Gel: Another natural buffer for exfoliants, the powerful hydrating ingredient works to protect against inflammation, heal, soothe and hydrate the delicate skin tissues.
Allantoin: A superb anti-irritant, allantoin is a soothing, comforting skin softener with a natural buffering ability.
Linked Papain CMPB: Naturally derived fruit enzymes are the most
effective proteolytic (protein digesting) agents. They have greater exfoliating effects than glycolic or salicylic acid, yet are safe to use around the eye area.
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Green Tea Leaf Extract: A powerful free radical-fighting antioxidant that strengthens with additional calming and soothing benefits. Green Tea Leaf Extract is know as a highly effective anti-inflammatory that is also rich in antioxidants.
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Lactic Acid: Considered the most gentle AHA fruit acid, but with also 㜵
a hydrating and healing nature.
Multi-Fruit BSC (Bioelements Alphablend): This “fruit-salad” of ㈵
exfoliating extract contain naturally occurring alpha hydroxyl acids. The molecules of each of these acids are different sizes to penetrate to different cellular levels and at different rates. The blend ensure less irritating, yet fast, effective action.
BIOELEMENTS are leaders in scientifically backed customised formulations. They provide leading-edge professional-strength treatment and products with the added flexibility for the therapist to customise their clients’ take-home treatment products to their specific needs. This is also one of the trademarks for Bioelements success in treatment outcomes.
Phone: Absolute Spa 1300 262 275.
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SCIENTIFIC NEWS
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IS BOTOX SAFE DURING PREGNANCY?
USER ERROR MOST COMMON FACTOR IN COSMETIC LASER SURGERY COMPLICATIONS Researchers studied 494 FDA Manufacturer and User Facility Device Experience adverse event reports resulting from laser-and energybased procedures with devices between 2006 and 2011. In each case, the laser manufacturer, device, event type, injury, cause, operator and treatment indication were recorded. Burns (36%), scarring (19.4%), infection (8%) and blistering (2.4%) were the most common complications. Thirty per cent of complications were created by health-care provider errors, with 20% of complications caused by laser device malfunction and 4% by patient error. Sixty-nine per cent of cases had unknown indications for treatment, and 38% of procedures had unknown causes of complications.
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“According to American Society for Dermatologic Surgery data, nearly eight million medically necessary and cosmetic procedures similar to cases reviewed were performed in 2012,” the researchers reported. “This number is increasing each year, signifying the increasing importance of safety. “To improve safety and reduce errors, we propose the implementation of a procedural sequence for cosmetic laser surgery.” Disclosure: The researchers reported no relevant financial disclosures Ref: Zelickson Z. Dermatol Surg. 2014;40:378382.
According to a recent expert review it was concluded that the NHS, Botox or Botulinum toxin type A is not recommended for use in pregnancy or breastfeeding, as there is no definitive evidence or research into its effects. However, a US survey of doctors using Botox found that of the 396 physicians who responded, 12 had used Botox on pregnant women and reported no adverse effects. The FDA in the US has an approval system, which includes safety guidance for pregnancy. Botox has been labelled as pregnancy risk category C – which means there are no adequate human studies. The FDA recommends that it should be “administered during pregnancy only if the potential benefit justifies the potential risk to the foetus”.
COSMETIC TREATMENTS JUMP 25 PER CENT IN 2013: ASDS SURVEY Patients are increasingly taking advantage of the cutting-edge techniques and tools dermatologic surgeons use to treat cosmetic concerns, ranging from wrinkles and unwanted leg veins to sun-damaged skin or a now-regretted tattoo. The number of cosmetic procedures performed by members of the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery jumped to nearly 6.5 million in 2013 – an
increase of 25 per cent over the previous year, the ASDS Survey on Dermatologic Procedures shows. Wrinkle-relaxing procedures lead the list at 1.8 million treatments, up 20 per cent over the 1.5 million procedures in 2012. These include injectable neur omodulators such as Botox, Dysport and Xeomin. Wrinkle-relaxers held the top spot in 2012 as well.
Soft-tissue fillers such as Juvederm, Radiesse, Restylane, Sculptra and Belotero to soften facial creases and add fullness and volume to the lower portion of the face were the second-most popular cosmetic treatment again in 2013. ASDS member dermatologists performed 995,000 such treatments, up nearly 9 per cent over the previous year. Wrinkle-relaxers and soft-tissue fillers also received top satisfaction ratings from the public in the 2013 ASDS Consumer Survey on Cosmetic Dermatologic Procedures. Both treatments received satisfaction ratings of 92 per cent. “The results in our recent procedures survey reflect a number of factors,” said ASDS President M i t c h e l P. G o l d m a n , M . D . “Dermatologic surgeons have advanced techniques in cutting-edge technologies. Consumers also are growing increasingly comfortable with cosmetic procedures, and the improving economy is allowing them the leeway to make these discretionary expenditures.” ASDS members saw increases in all categories of treatments, including body sculpting and laser/light/energy-based procedures, he noted. In Australia, over $1 billion dollars is currently spent annually by Australians on cosmetic procedures according to ACCS. This increase in consumer demand reflects similar statistics to the US.
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human biology. Because it is incompletely understood, efforts to develop effective medicines to encourage healing have been largely unsuccessful.
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DISCOVERY CONTRADICTS DECADES OF CONVENTIONAL WISDOM ABOUT TISSUE REPAIR A Keck School of Medicine of USC in the US researcher has shown that a previously unsuspected but common protein in the human body can help wounds to the skin heal, contradicting decades of conventional wisdom about the biology of tissue repair as well as potential treatments. This is considered a breakthrough in better understanding the body's intricate healing process. The pilot study showed that a compound isolated from a substance called heat shock protein 90alpha (Hsp90) significantly improves the healing of wounds on diabetic skin, said principal investigator Wei Li, a professor in the Department of Dermatology. This preclinical research, funded by the Southern California Clinical and Translational Sciences Institute (SC CTSI), helped Li obtain a grant from the National Institutes of Health to continue the research in human subjects. “If a large wound or burn doesn't heal fast, bacteria can get in, possibly into the bone marrow, and lead to amputations or even jeopardise the patient's life,” Li said. “Mother Nature doesn't waste her energy,” he concluded. 㤵 㜵
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In recent decades, many experts believed that a molecule called growth factor (GF), produced in small amounts in the body, was the primary force in skin repair. Medicine containing growth factor was developed and approved for use. But Li didn't believe growth factor was the missing link in tissue healing and was among several researchers to conduct studies that showed GF-based medication failed to help most patients, and even carried cancer-accelerating sideeffects. Li turned his attention to Hsp90a, which is abundant throughout the body, as well as in many plants and animals. In fact, there is about 700 times more Hsp90a than any other protein.
medical tourism a success. Malaysia, Thailand, Costa Rica and South Korea are among the nations that are leading the medical tourism bandwagon. Surprise progress has been manifested in the growing figures displayed by Turkey and Australia. Turkey has always known for being an exotic tourist destination rather than for its medical expertise. Australia is one of the most developed nations of the world, but few would have thought the country would provide low-cost, high-quality treatment options to make it one of the fastest-growing medical tourism venues.
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Another interesting phenomenon that has come to light in the IMTJ report is that the focus is no longer on price competition, but on quality and luxury deliverables that will offer a rich vacation and health experience. Here is a quick look at three of the hottest destinations this year:
1. TURKEY The Turkish medical community is now offering a wide variety of high-quality treatment options for all foreign nationals. According to Deloitte's 2014 Global Life Sciences Outlook, Turkey welcomed 250,000 medical tourists in 2012 and is now one of the top 10 healthcare destinations globally.
AUSTRALIA TOPS THE LIST OF LEADING DESTINATION CHOICES FOR MEDICAL TOURISM IN 2014 With qualified doctors and a sizeable Englishspeaking populace, Costa Rica makes a great medical tourism destination. The concept of medical tourism is an instant hit for two reasons: the promise of good treatment at half the cost and the added bonus of a vacation to a foreign land.
Some $25 billion a year is spent annually for diabetics alone to provide supportive wound treatment. In diabetics, the elderly or others with compromised health, wounds can remain open for months or years, requiring constant care to hold off infection.
Once the idea caught on, the travel and hospitality industry was quick to see the benefits of tying up with the medical community and expanding the limits of this new business. According to the International Medical Travel Journal, 48 per cent of the industry has seen a steady rise in international patient numbers in the last 12 months, while almost 76 per cent expect more growth in the next 12 months.
Although familiar enough to everyone who has ever scraped a knee, the skin's ability to repair itself is actually one of the most complicated and mysterious processes in
Even governments around the world have woken up to the political and financial benefits of medical tourism and are working with their hospitality departments to make
This favorite vacation destination is slated to grow quickly in the medical tourism arena and report a volume of around $19 billion by 2017. What makes it unique is that the industry in Turkey has converged modern medical science with natural healing by including the country's 1,600-plus thermal springs in many packages. Along with medical treatment, one can enjoy spa facilities to heal and rejuvenate their body. The Turkish Ministry of Health is hoping to increase the number of incoming medical tourists to 500,000 by 2015 and to two million by 2023.
2. COSTA RICA Another favored destination for medical tourism this year is Costa Rica. This beautiful country has been one of the most popular vacation destinations for the 21st century and now offers quality and affordable treatment options as well. With qualified doctors and a sizeable English-speaking populace, Costa Rica is easy to access and stay in for extended durations of treatment. Treatments cost much less compared to the U.S., with fields like dentistry costing at least 50 per cent less.
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Costa Rica now ranks higher than US, at 36th in the global index of quality healthcare as per the World Health Organisation. Adding to Costa Rica's popularity is that under the new Affordable Care Act system in the U.S., many insurance companies are willing to cover healthcare expenses for patients who wish to get treated in Costa Rica.
3. AUSTRALIA
The Australian medical tourism market is new, but growing at quite a fast pace. Latest reports show that a leading private hospital group in the country sees around 600 international patients coming in from 30 different countries per year. This is just one group, and many others are working simultaneously and rising fast. Costs are almost 20 per cent less than in the U.S., but the industry is still at a nascent stage and needs to grow so that Australia can stop sending its own patients to Asian countries and bring in more medical tourists each year. Right now Australia is targeting patients from New Zealand, various Asian countries and even the Americas. 2013 saw more than 10,000 medical tourists visiting Down Under and revenue of $23.4 million – a figure that is likely to grow by leaps and bounds in the near future. Ref: http://exclusive.multibriefs.com/
SKIN LAYER GROWN FROM HUMAN STEM CELLS COULD REPLACE ANIMALS IN DRUG AND COSMETICS TESTING 㤵 㜵
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An international team led by King's College London and the San Francisco Veteran Affairs Medical Center (SFVAMC) has developed the first lab-grown epidermis the outermost skin layer – with a functional permeability barrier akin to real skin. The new epidermis, grown from human pluripotent stem cells, offers a cost-effective alternative lab model for testing drugs and cosmetics, and could also help to develop new therapies for rare and common skin disorders.
The epidermis, the outermost layer of human skin, forms a protective interface between the body and its external environment, preventing water from escaping and microbes and toxins from entering. Tissue engineers have been unable to grow epidermis with the functional barrier needed for drug testing, and have been further limited in producing an in vitro (lab) model for large-scale drug screening by the number of cells that can be grown from a single skin biopsy sample. The new study, published in the journal Stem Cell Reports, describes the use of human-induced pluripotent stem cells (iPSC) to produce an unlimited supply of pure keratinocytes the predominant cell type in the outermost layer of skin – that closely match keratinocytes generated from human embryonic stem cells (hESC) and primary keratinocytes from skin biopsies. These keratinocytes were then used to manufacture 3D epidermal equivalents in a high-to-low humidity environment to build a functional permeability barrier, which is essential in protecting the body from losing moisture, and preventing the entry of chemicals, toxins and microbes. A comparison of epidermal equivalents generated from iPSC, hESC and primary human keratinocytes (skin cells) from skin biopsies showed no significant difference in their structural or functional properties compared with the outermost layer of normal human skin. Dr Theodora Mauro, leader of the SFVAMC team, says: "The ability to obtain an unlimited number of genetically identical units can be used to study a range of conditions where the skin's barrier is defective due to mutations in genes involved in skin-barrier formation, such as ichthyosis (dry, flaky skin) or atopic dermatitis. We can use this model to study how the skin barrier develops normally, how the barrier is impaired in different diseases and how we can stimulate its repair and recovery.” Dr Dusko Ilic, leader of the team at King's College London, says: "Our new method can be used to grow much greater quantities of lab-grown human epidermal equivalents, and thus could be scaled up for commercial testing of drugs and cosmetics. Human epidermal equivalents representing different types of skin could also be grown, depending on the source of the stem cells used, and could thus be tailored to study a range of skin
conditions and sensitivities in different populations." http://medicalxpress.com/news/2014-04-skinlayer-grown-human-stem.html
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DERMATOLOGISTS CAN DIAGNOSE SELFIES SENT FROM YOUR SMARTPHONE Examining photos of skin conditions or moles often led to the same conclusions as in-person consultations The future of dermatology may be as simple as sending your doctor a selfie of your curious-looking mole. A new study published in the journal JAMA Dermatology takes a look at the field of teledermatology, which involves sending dermatologists photos of suspicious spots and getting a remote diagnosis. According to the findings, this actually works pretty well. Researchers at the University of Pennsylvania looked at 50 individuals who were in the hospital and had a skin problem that needed a doctor's assessment. All of the participants had an in-person consultation with a doctor, and the researchers also sent photos of their skin conditions to two independent dermatologists to diagnose for comparison. They discovered that when in-person doctors recommended a biopsy, the remote doctors who were going off of photos agreed 95% of the time. When an in-person doctor recommended same-day additional tests, the external dermatologists agreed 90% of the time. The ability to use your smartphone to get skin-disorder diagnoses could make dermatology more efficient, and more accessible for people in rural communities who struggle to reach medical experts. Still, researchers need to confirm that teledermatology is as accurate as an in-person appointment, and that serious medical issues would not be overlooked. Ref: http://healthland.time.com/2014/02/13/ dermatologists-can-diagnoses-selfies-sentfrom-your-smartphone/#ixzz2tzZK91dq
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APJ 118
cosmeticingredient
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Snow Algae offer new hope for SKIN LONGEVITY By Tina Viney It is a known fact that that which does not kill you can make you stronger, and this is also true of the botanical and natural world. Recent studies have identified how certain plants that are forced to survive harsh climatic conditions do so as a result of tenacious genes that up-regulate their survival. One example is the Edelweiss flower that survives the harsh arid mountain environment of the Alps. Edelweiss-Extract is now utilised as a active ingredient by several skincare formulators because Edelweiss's natural compounds have been proven to have the ability to neutralise free radicals, and are preventing amplification of those super oxides involved in the ageing processes of skin. UV-light-absorbing substances in this high-altitude plant, make the extracts derived from Edelweiss an ideal additive in sunblocks, also the Edelweiss plants content of bioflavonoids enables preparations to strengthen the walls of blood vessels, which is useful in the treatment of some vascular problems.
SNOW ALGAE OFFER GREAT PROMISE 㤵 㜵
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New studies now confirm the amazing benefits of Snow Algae in supporting skin-cell longevity. Snow algae grow in semi-permanent to permanent snow or ice in the alpine or polar regions of the world. Their optimum growth temperatures are generally below 10° C. These algae have successfully adapted to their harsh environment through the development of a number of features, which include pigments, polyols (sugar alcohols, e.g. glycerine), sugars and lipids (oils), mucilage sheaths, motile stages and spore formation.
Snow algae were derived from species of soil or aquatic algae. Their distribution is governed by factors such as nutrients, pH, salinity, aspect and sunlight. In adapting to an extreme environment, snow algae may have developed compounds (such as sunscreens and lowtemperature enzymes) and genes of commercial value. Many of the snow algal species go through a complicated life cycle involving vegetative and or motile cells, which are usually green in colour, and immotile spores or cysts, which may be red, orange or yellow-green in colour. The green vegetative cells give rise to green snow and the red and orange snow are generally caused by the spore stages of the snow algae, although some snow algae may be redpigmented in their vegetative state. These pigments protect the cells from high light and UV radiation damage during the summer months. The pigments may take the form of iron tannin compounds, as in M. berggrenii, or orange to red-pigmented lipids as in the majority of the snow algae. The spores usually have thick walls and large amounts of lipid reserves, polyols and sugars. These spores are able to withstand subzero temperatures in winter and also high soil temperatures and desiccation in summer, which would kill normal vegetative cells.
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The motile stages enable them to re-colonise the snow from germinating spores left behind on the soil as well as to position themselves at the optimum depth for photosynthesis in the snow/ice column. The cells of some species also secrete copious amounts of mucilage that enable them to adhere to one another and to snow crystals and prevent the cells from being washed away by melted water. The mucilage also forms a protective coat and delays desiccation. It may have an additional function as an UV shield.
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APJ 119
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REPAIRING THE EFFECTS OF TIME BY MIMICKING CALORIE RESTRICTION One of Europe's leading ingredient laboratories, Mibelle Biochemistry, has identified the benefits of snow algae and has developed a Snow Algae Powder – offering an anti-ageing treatment that is based on a new mechanism the calorie restriction. The benefits of food-calorie restriction have been shown to improve both the healthspan and lifespan of individuals, and this approach is thus considered to be a well-recognised new anti-ageing pathway. What was amazingly discovered is that Snow Algae Powder as a skincare ingredient mimics the effects of calorie restriction on a cellular level and in this way improves the longevity of the skin cells. Consequently, it offers the skin the cellular benefits of a restricted diet without the need to undergo a low-calorie regime. This innovative anti-ageing active ingredient is based on the extract of unique extremophile algae that have managed to develop survival strategies that enable them to grow on glaciers and in permanent snow.
ANTI-AGEING GENES AND THE MECHANISM OF SNOWALGAE POWDER The mechanism of Snow Algae Powder improves the longevity of the skin cells by mimicking the effects of caloric restriction (CR) at a cellular level and therefore optimising skin metabolism. As a result, Snow Algae Powder offers the benefit of a diet to the skin without the need to undergo a low-calorie regime. In fact Snow Algae Power protects and activates two key factors of the CR pathway – the Klotho longevity gene and the AMPK energy sensor, that together lead to improved cellular defences, oxidative stress resistance, cell detoxification and repair. The age-induced decrease in collagen product is stopped and even reversed. In addition it was identified that the activity of the Matrix Metalloproteases (MMP) was strongly reduced, the dermal epidermal junction recovered its original wavy architecture and it was rejuvenated. Additionally it was observed that the skin barrier was reinforced, resulting in the skin appearing fresher and detoxified and with age spots becoming less visible. Furthermore, the Klotho gene was found to extend the lifespan of mice when overexpressed, while it accelerated ageing when its expression is disrupted. The name of this longevity gene came from the Greek goddess Klotho in Greek mythology. It was Klotho who controlled the lives and destinies of everyone. The Klotho gene codes for a transmemebrane protein, the extracellular domain of which is shed and secreted. The secreted protein inhibits the phosphorylation of the IGF1 receptor that leads to the repression of the insulin IGF-1 pathway. Klotho activity results in an activation of FOXO. Activation of FOXO has been shown to induce anti-ageing activity by stimulating detoxification and DNA-repair genes.
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As we age the architecture of the dermal/epidermal junction (DEJ) changes. The reduction of the quality and quantity of collagen and elastin results in DEJ becoming more flattened and the connection between the epidermis and dermis reduced. To determine the impact of Snow Algae Power on the DEJ a study was conducted using a 2% hydrogel containing Snow Algae Powder that was applied twice daily for two months inside the forearm of five Caucasian women aged between 57 and 67, while their other arm was treated with a corresponding placebo.
DEJ was analysed using a two-photon microscopy before and after treatment. Results showed improvement of the undulations of the DEJ and an increase in surface by 12.5% compared to the initial conditions and an increase by 30.5% compared to the placebo. This indicated the rejuvenating effect of the Snow Algae Powder on the connecting tissue. The effects of Snow Algae Powder on the expression of collagen I and III genes were also evaluated in aged human dermal fibroblasts in a replicative ageing model (Hayflick model). Aged fibroblasts (passage 17) were cultured either with or without 0.1% Snow Algae extract. A control with normal fibroblasts (passage 8) was also performed in parallel. From there, the expression of collagen I and III geners were analysed by quantative PCR.
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Replicative senscience of fibroblasts induced a downregulation of the collagen I and III genes. However, Snow Algae extract was shown to neutralise this decrease for the collagen I gene, and in the case of the collagen III gene overcompensation for it. Snow Alage Powder therefore was proven to help repair the effects of ageing by stimulating the most abundant collagens in the skin.
ANTI-MMP EFFECT ON AGED SKIN CELLS Senscience of normal human dermal fibroblasts was induced by incubating them with H2O2 (inducing an oxidative stress model). From there these cells were cultured either with or without 0.1% Snow Algae extract and the expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 genes were analysed by quantitative PCR, In the control culture, H2O2-induced senscience led to the stimulation of the MMP-1 and MMP-3 enzymes. These two enzymes are involved in the breakdown of several types of collagens, including collagens I and III. However, Snow Algae extract was found to reduce this effect. This also confirmed the capacity of Snow Algae Powder to counteract the effects of ageing by preserving the collagens in the skin.
The results of these trials indicated the benefits of Snow Algae Powder on the skin as follows:
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Protects and activates longevity factors in skin cells Rejuvenates and protects skin at cellular level Safeguards skin's youthfulness by activating Klotho Strengthens cellular defence mechanisms through calorie restriction mimetic activity Reinforces, smoothes and hydrates the skin
Applications
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Rejuvenating and repair formulas Age-defence products Youth protecting and promoting skincare Formulas to increase skin's longevity – face, body and hand
The results in the skin are the production of collagen starting again and a rejuvenation of the dermal epidermal junction. Consequently, the skin barrier is reinforced while the skin appears fresher and detoxified as age spots are less visible. Skin is also better moisturised after 14 days and smoother after 28 days of treatment.
REFERENCE: http://www.protecingredia.com/ecomms/2014/snow_algae_powder.pdf
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APJ 120
keyingedient 㤵
COCONUT OIL for good health, weight-loss
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and skin improvement By Tina Viney
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Once mistakenly believed to be unhealthy because of its high saturated fat content, coconut oil is now gaining recognition as a nutritious product with incredible health and anti-ageing benefits. Do you eat low-fat and fat-free foods and shun fat at every opportunity to avoid gaining weight? According to Bruce Fife N.D., a worldrenowned researcher and expert on coconut oil, if you do that may be one of your problems. The belief that eating fat makes you fat is no longer considered accurate. Some fats can actually help you lose excess weight. Adding fat into your diet may be the key in helping you shed spare pounds you've been struggling with for years. Not all fats, however, are alike. Some fats promote weight loss better than others. One fat in particular that is gaining a reputation as an effective aid in weight loss and is being recommended for use in the prevention and treatment of obesity is coconut oil.
MEDIUM-CHAIN TRIGLYCERIDES AND WEIGHT LOSS
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At one time coconut oil was criticised for its saturated fat content, but we now know that it is composed of a very special group of saturated fats known as medium-chain triglycerides (MCT). Research has shown that MCT provide many health benefits, one of which is aiding in weight loss. What makes MCT different from other fats is the way they are processed and metabolised by the body. MCT are broken down and digested very easily. Unlike other fats, they do not require pancreatic digestive enzymes or bile for digestion. The vast majority of fat digestion occurs in the small intestine. Here pancreatic digestive enzymes, with the aid of bile, break fats down into fatty acids. These fatty acids are then absorbed into the intestinal wall where they are packaged into bundles of fat and protein called
lipoproteins and sent into the bloodstream. As these lipoproteins circulate in the bloodstream they release particles of fat. This is the fat that eventually ends up being packed into our fat cells. The MCT in coconut oil are processed differently. MCT are broken down into individual fatty acids before they leave the stomach. So when they enter the small intestine they do not need any further processing by digestive enzymes or bile. For this reason they are immediately absorbed into the portal vein and sent directly to the liver, bypassing the lipoprotein stage in the intestinal wall. In the liver these mediumchain fatty acids are used as a source of fuel and are burnt to produce energy. Therefore, the fat in coconut oil does not circulate in the bloodstream to the degree that other fats do and does not contribute fat to our fat cells. The MCT in coconut oil produce energy, not body fat. The fact that MCT are used by the body as a source of fuel rather than being packed away as body fat provides many health benefits. The most obvious is a boost in energy. This rise in energy stimulates metabolism. Metabolism is shifted into a higher gear. As metabolism increases the rate at which we burn calories also increases. Therefore, the calories we eat are consumed at a higher rate, leaving fewer to be converted into body fat. Studies have shown that in normal-weight individuals after a single meal containing MCT metabolism increases by 48%. In obese individuals metabolism increases by an incredible 65%, so the more overweight a person is the greater the effect coconut oil has on stimulating metabolism and encouraging weight loss. This metabolic stimulating effect isn't seen for only an hour or two after eating. Studies have shown that after a single meal containing MCT metabolism remains elevated for a full 24 hours. So for 24 hours the
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APJ 121
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energy level is increased, metabolism is running at a higher pace, and calories are burnt off at a greater rate. Calories consumed from other foods are even burnt off at a higher rate. There was an interesting study published in the journal Metabolism. Volunteers were given one of three diets – a low-fat diet, a high-fat diet, and a high-fat diet consisting of MCT. The study lasted 44 days. At the end of the study those who received the MCT had 60% less body fat than either of the other groups.
Researchers at McGill University have calculated that if all fats in the diet were replaced with an oil that contained MCT, such as coconut oil, a person could lose up to 36 pounds a year. This is without dieting, changing the type of foods eaten, or reducing the amount of calories consumed. When combined with a sensible diet coconut oil can be an effective aid in weight loss. Despite that it is a fat, it is unique in its ability to prevent weight-gain or cure obesity by stimulating the metabolism. It is quickly metabolised, and functions in some ways as an antioxidant. Every study using natural, unprocessed coconut oil found a normalising of cholesterol, blood sugar and blood pressure. This is also true of extra virgin olive oil, peanut oil and avocado oil.
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Thyroid function Increased metabolic rate Healthy heart by improving cholesterol ratio Enhances tissue healing and repair Helps control diabetes by supporting insulin secretion and utilisation of blood glucose Reduces risk of atherosclerosis and heart disease Reduces risk of cancer and other degenerative conditions Helps prevent bacterial, viral and fungal (including yeast) infections Supports healthy metabolic function Improves digestion and nutrients necessary for good health Supplies fewer calories than other fats Promotes weight loss Helps prevent osteoporosis Helps keep skin soft and smooth Helps prevent premature ageing and wrinkling of the skin Helps protect against skin cancer and other blemishes Functions as a protective antioxidant Combats viruses that cause influenza, hepatitis C, measles, herpes and AIDS and other illnesses Combats bacteria that cause ulcers, throat infections, urinary-tract infections, dental cavities and pneumonia
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ADDITIONAL HEALTH BENEFITS The benefits of coconut oil aren't limited to just an increase in energy and loss of excess body fat. Because coconut oil increases metabolism it has an effect over the entire body. When metabolism is increased the body functions at a higher level of efficiency; circulation improves, the rate of repair and healing increases, the immune system is raised to a higher level of efficiency, energy levels are increased. There is an overall improvement in health and wellbeing. Because of this and other reasons coconut oil is proving to be of benefit in preventing and alleviating many of the symptoms associated with heart disease, diabetes, cancer, liver disease, Crohn's disease, chronic fatigue, fibromyalgia, and hypothyroidism, to mention just a few. So what other benefits can you expect from Coconut Oil? Here is what you can expect:
What coconut oil can do:
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Supports the immune system function
What coconut oil does not do:
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Does not increase blood cholesterol level Does not promote platelet stickiness or blood-clot formation Does not contribute to atherosclerosis or heart disease Does not contribute to weight problems
Has a mild delicate flavour. Is highly resistant to spoilage (long shelf life). Is heat resistant and is considered the healthiest oil for cooking as it is heat tolerant.
FOR SKIN BENEFITS For centuries traditional healers in India (Ayurveda) and the South Pacific have used raw virgin coconut oil as a medicine and as a massage oil to soothe and cool the body. Although coconut oil comes as a white solid it has a very high melting point (will melt above 26 degrees Celsius), so as soon as it touches the skin it melts to a very thin liquid. It is absorbed very quickly by the skin and does not leave a feeling of greasiness. Coconut oil will alleviate symptoms of psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis. It softens the skin and helps relieve dryness and flakiness. It has also been reported to help prevent wrinkles, loose skin and age spots. Whether you are providing slimming services or predominantly facial treatments the use of coconut oil warrants your consideration.
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To purchase Certified Organic Coconut Oil contact www.niulife.com Bruce Fife, N.D. is the director of the Coconut Research Centre and is the author of 18 books including The Coconut Oil Miracle (Avery; 2004) and Eat Fat, Look Thin (Piccadilly Books; 2002).
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APJ 122
APAN
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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE
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2014
REVEALING THE NEW FACE OF AESHETICS Redefining and Setting New Standards in AESTHETICS EDUCATION
SYDNEY August 25 9am – 5pm
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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES
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NEW DATE HOBART October 12 9am – 5pm
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2014 APAN is launching a new educational Professional Development Program. Join us and gain insight into future trends, increase your knowledge and confidence and get ready for a more successful 2014.
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Registrations Open Now | Ph: 07 5593 0360 | info@apanetwork.com | www.apanetwork.com
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