APJ Vol 27 2015

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Summer Volume 27. 2015

Summer Issue Volume 27.

The RESHAPING

+ REDEFINING

Cellulite Strategy

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2015

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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9 40-41 52-54 60-61 64-66 70-74 80-84 108-109

Heart-2-Heart APAN Successfully Secures Government Funding Salon Profile: Amazing Skin by Sarah Hudson UAC: APAN launches new interactive initiative Member Profile: A brilliant Career in Cosmetic Tattooing Business News Scientific News Product Innovations

REGULATIONS, EDUCATION & TRAINING 10-11 22-23 42-44 46-48 50 99-102

The Changing Tones of Colour Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTAR) Manifestations of a compromised Lymphatic and Immune System: Part 3 Structural Integrity Update: Qld. Council Licensing requirements APAN launches Accredited Training Course in the Safe use of Anaesthetics

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 12-13 14-16 24-28 36-37 38-39 92-93 103-105 110-111 112-113 116-118 120-123

Can Microneedling cause Hyperpigmenation? 2015 "State of the Art" Review: Neck Rejuvenation Cellulite and Obesity: The new business growth opportunity The Ins and Outs of Breast Augmentation The Power of Multidisciplinary Approach Parabens: Why eat it, but not want it on your skin? The Wonderful benefits of Sunflower oil New Research discovers hope for Migraineurs Why you might be 20 years older than your actual age The most common Nutritional Deficiencies and their impact on skin and health Energy and Matcha tea

BUSINESS AND PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 18-20

The Benefits of Music in Your Business and Copyright Laws 78-79 Lessons Learnt in 2015: Vision that brings Hope 86-87 How to Recruit, Induct and Keep the Right Employee 106-107 Keeping your business affairs in order for peace of mind 114-115 We have missed you

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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 75 88-91 123

2015 MyFaceMyBody Awards Australasia APAN ends the year with another successful conference APAN Aesthetic Conference Program 2016

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ETHEREA® WAS DEVELOPED TO BRING TO MARKET WHAT IS THE BEST, MOST MODERN AND TRULY EFFECTIVE MODALITIES IN LASER AND LIGHT-BASED APPLICATIONS. FEATURING FIVE (5) DIFFERENT TECHNOLOGIES, ETHEREA® SEEKS TO MEET THE SPECIFIC NEEDS OF DOCTORS AND PATIENTS, OFFERING A WIDE VARIETY IN TREATMENT INDICATIONS INCLUDING ACNE SCARS, PHOTOREJUVENATION, FRACTIONAL RESURFACING, NON-ABLATIVE FRACTIONAL REJUVENATION, TATTOO AND PIGMENTED LESION REMOVAL, DEEP AND SUPERFICIAL VASCULAR LESION TREATMENT, ACNE AND MELASMA TREATMENT, SKIN TIGHTENING AND HAIR REMOVAL. VERSATILE MULTISTATION TECHNOLOGY ETHEREA® was developed to suit the latest developments in innovative therapeutic light sources, including solid-state/pumped lasers. ETHEREA® is based on the principle of an expandable platform, combining versatility and high-technology systems in a compact single device.

THE VANGUARD IN LIGHT-BASED SYSTEMS ETHEREA® is the first multi-platform system developed and manufactured in the americas. In addition to the recognition and acclaim in its domestic market, ETHEREA® having achieved US FDA, EU CE & AU TGA certification the ETHEREA multistation has gained global recognition for its innovation and clinical results.

FULL-RANGE SUPPORT FOR YOUR BUSINESS With comprehensive technical and clinical support, ETHEREA® is your partner in high-quality service standards that translates into reliable clinical results, credibility for your business, fast ROI and satisfaction for your patients.

THE STATE-OF-THE-ART MULTI PLATFORM SYSTEM FOR YOUR PRACTICE 5 DIFFERENT LASER AND LIGHT-BASED TECHNOLOGIES ETHEREA OFFERS A UNIQUE COMBINED-SOLUTION TECHNOLOGY WITH HIGH ROI: In addition to covering a wide range of therapeutic indications and a technical architecture for continuous incorporation of new technologies, ETHEREA® and its handpieces gives you a leading, most modern and most versatile multi-platform system with the fastest return on your investment.

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EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;SNOTE As our industry continues to evolve through innovative technologies and techniques it is becoming increasingly appealing as a career path. The plethora of light-based services and the potential income that they promise is a strong attraction drawing many to enter the cosmetic and skincare industry. While this is creating positive momentum and greater consumer visibility for our services, it is also contributing to the growing issue of competitiveness and many businesses are starting to feel the pressure. It is commonly understood that competition is a good force that presses us to do our best. When we are pressed to achieve we grow. When we grow, our potential to achieve grows with us. While excessive competition if not handled correctly can be unhealthy, as a rule competition can be a positive and powerful motivational tool, and often the very basis for our survival as we develop resilience in both business and life. Show me someone who has faced adversity and overcome it and I will show you a survivor and an individual with substance, understanding and often compassion. Competition exists in every field and it is no different to the aesthetics industry. Competition brings out the best in people â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the disciplined mind, the hard worker, the reliable achiever in both treatment results and sales. If it were not for http://www.facebook.com/laserandipl?fret=ts competition businesses would not be pressed to do better, whether it is for creating innovative products or attracting and retaining loyal clients. It was Andrew Carnegie who said, "While the law of competition may be sometimes hard for the individual, it is best for the race, because it ensures the survival of the fittest in every department". Innovation and growth are just some of the numerous positive outcomes from healthy competition. Innovation creates the latest gadgets, the newest ingredients and better ways of solving problems. It pushes us and our potential to new levels. It keeps the cycle of improvement alive and well. How can an industry grow if everyone is doing the same thing? Change, advancement and progress bring forth innovative leaders and keep the market from becoming stagnant. For strategic consideration, I would propose that we focus on competing, but also in avoiding following what the competition is doing. Through a reaction of fear many have fallen into this trap, entering the price war and competing by price alone and this has led to their downfall. While it is important to become aware what your clients are considering as alternatives to what you are offering, it is important to understand that your real competitive advantage is to focus on what you do well and seek ways to constantly do it better. That is the best way to beat the competition. Devote specific time to read, study and stay current with new advances, technologies, industry concepts, ingredients and introducing more effective protocols. You are a professional and you can never learn too much. Remember, the new consumer mentality is not about "cheap cheap" as much as it is about "what is the best value that I can get for my money". This is how the on-going development of your skills and knowledge will make you the attractive Follow Tina on option every time. Remember that competition is part of life and it is here to stay â&#x20AC;&#x201C; outsmart it http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page and win by doing things better.

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APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

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http://www.facebook.com/laserandipl?fret=ts

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Editor Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

Welcome to APJ

Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Shop 7D, 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-981 Print Post Approved [100000257]

Circulation 6900

FRONT COVER

VOGUE IMAGE GROUP Distributors of: SKEYNDOR and SORISA Skincare and Equipment Phone: 1800 554 545 (03) 9821 0033 Email: info@vogueimage.com.au For further information see pages 29-32 The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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Heart-to-Heart A message from the President and CEO Dear Colleagues and Friends What an amazing and eventful year we have had in 2015. We have achieved some incredible advances for our industry, and while a brief summary is included on the following page, I will briefly address just a few of the key ones in my report. So let's look at just some of the highlights: In addition to its three conference programs APAN introduced for the first time this year two Post-Graduate advanced training programs in Medical Cosmetic Tattooing (Nipple Areola), which we conducted in Brisbane directly after the APAN Aesthetics Conference, as well an additional one directly after our Sydney Conference on Medical Cosmetic Tattooing (Eyebrow and Eyeliner techniques). These training programs were very comprehensive and included individual hands-on training, and as a result were a great success. Following these events the momentum of the groups saw the beggining of some real passionate exchanges of views and convictions that took place through our new Social Media Platform Urban Aesthetic Culture Facebook Forum. This was a closed forum and professionals could only join by invitation.

for a cosmetic tattooist or aesthetics practitioner to purchase or apply anaesthetic during a procedure. As we are aware, very few practitioners abide by this requirement. This is of great concern for both regulators and also APAN. Seeing the need to protect the industry, APAN delivered an industry first – an APAN Accredited training program in the Safe Use of Anaesthetics. Two training programs were delivered on the Gold Coast – in August and September respectively. Further courses are planned for October after the APAN Aesthetics Conference in Melbourne and on Sunday 29th November in Sydney.

APAN SECURES GOVERNMENT-FUNDED TRAINING FOR BUSINESSES Another milestone was that APAN was successful in securing government funding for a $750,000 training program. This was an amazing achievement and one that required a great deal of diligence and perseverance for over nine months. However, despite the obstacles we were finally approved by the Federal Government and congratulated by Senator Birmingham's office and our local Minister of Parliament's office with a visit from government officials to our offices (see full report on page 40-41 for full details).

OPENING NEW DOORS

During the dynamic exchange the seeds to the construct of the new National APAN Cosmetic Tattoo Membership Classification was developed, with rules and guidelines identified and set in motion. Finally, on October 18th the new membership classification Cosmetic Tattoo – APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) was launched.

This achievement is already opening new doors with several government departments as APAN continues to establish solid relationships and a stronger industry voice that can best defend the industry's best interests.

WHY AN ANAESTHETIC COURSE?

Additionally, these relationships will allow us to move forward with government support as APAN launches a new industry Registration Program that we plan to release in 2016.

Moving on to Anaesthetics, in May and June we were approached by three different departments from Queensland Health. Several meetings were conducted where officials discussed specific industry needs for the purpose of amending existing regulations, as well as introducing new guidelines for services that are not currently included. Modalities such as skin needling, updates on Cosmetic Tattooing and several others such as fraxel laser as well as the use of topical anaesthetics, which has become a contentious issue. As most of you would know, regulations at this point only permit the use of Emla to be purchased by the client from the chemist and apply themselves prior to a procedure. At this point in time there is no provision under current legislation

APAN OFFICIAL MEMBER OF THE ARPANSA WORKING GROUP Following the release of the ARPANSA Regulatory Impact Statement for public comment in July this year, the Working Group appointed to review regulations of IPL and Laser use for cosmetic purposes has still more work to complete. APAN as an active member will continue to support the right for qualified practitioners to perform a diverse range of treatments without the need for extensive restrictions. This year APAN conducted several phone conferences to help the industry gain a better understanding of their options and the implications of each recommendation.

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APAN'S ACTIVITIES AND ACHIEVEMENTS IN 2015

Knowledge is like climbing a mountain. The higher you reach, the more you can see and appreciate.

May 31st:

Brisbane Aesthetics Conference

June 1st:

Medical Cosmetic Tattoo training: Nipple Areola (NEW)

June 21st:

Sydney Aesthetics Conference

June 22nd:

Medical Cosmetic Tattoo training: Eyebrow and Eyeliner (NEW)

July:

Circulated the ARPANSA Regulatory Impact Statement for public comment for the regulations of IPL and Laser use for Cosmetic Purposes Conducted several phone Conferences to assist industry with questions regarding the Options put forward by the ARPANSA Working Group Active member of the ARPANSA Working Group representing the interests of the Aesthetics industry.

Anonymous

JOIN US AND HELP US DEFEND YOU We are often asked what can APAN do for me? Please note that ALL of the above initiatives are not government funded. Your membership, in essence, will not only give you direct access to business coaching, discount services and numerous useful documents and expert support, a portion of your membership dollar also goes to allowing APAN to actively participate in the many hours and skills needed to achieve your success as an industry professional through the various regulatory measures. This is not a easy task. It requires skill, unbiased industry intelligence, knowledge and countless hours of research and study to effectively represent the needs of a whole industry. These tasks also are extremely lengthy and time consuming and often take years before success can be achieved. At this point APAN has been involved with the ARPANSA Working Group for well over three years and we are not finished yet. Indeed, it is easy to get disheartened, but perseverance and tenacity eventually pays off. If you are not already a professional member of APAN we invite you to join us. You are not helping just yourself, but contributing to a better industry. Phone 07 5593 0360 for further details or visit www.apanetwork.com and download an application form.

July:

Since 2012-2015

August 16th:

Gold Coast: Certified Training Course (NEW) An Introduction to the Safe Use of Anaesthetics Part 1

Sept. 20th

Gold Coast: Certified Training Course An introduction to the Safe Use of Anaesthetics Part 1

October 1st:

Secured Government Funding for a $750,000 (NEW) government-approved qualification program for 65 businesses for three specific qualifications: 1. SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction 2. NAT10038 Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies. This qualification covers skin rejuvenation, vascular, pigmentation as well as tattoo removal. 3. SIB50210 Diploma of Salon Management

October 18th October 18th

Launch of Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) (NEW) Official Launch of Urban Aesthetic Culture - Social Medial Platform

October 28th:

Melbourne Aesthetics Conference

October 29th:

Certified Training Course: An Introduction to the Safe Use of Anaesthetics Part 1

Nov. 28th:

Elected as Part of the Judging Panel for the International (NEW) MyFace MyBody Awards

Nov. 29th:

Certified Training Course: An Introduction to the Safe Use of Anaesthetics Part 1

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As we come to the end of another year, my best wishes for a Happy Christmas and Holiday Season whatever you aspire to. Please stay connected to APAN as together we reach for greater heights for the industry in 2016.

Additional activities: Attended 10 meetings with various government regulations officers in various jurisdictions: Queensland Health, Infection Control â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Communicable Diseases, Drugs and Poisons Regulations

2016 will see the official launch of the APAN NEW Trademark Protected Membership classification as part of the New APAN Professional Registration Program

cosmetictattoo

The Changing Tones of Colour By Christine Comans APAN Co-ordinator Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner Cosmetic tattoo trainer and educator Cosmetic tattooing is very much about improving shape, harmonising features, minimising imperfections and creating a more youthful and pleasing end result that will give our client confidence and improve their self- esteem. On the other hand, in the case of medical cosmetic tattooing, such as with nipple areola or alopecia, we are required to re-create something that trauma or illness has faded or removed completely, and that requires a great deal of skill and artistry for which we will need a variety of techniques, including the incredible 3D technique. However, all this is achieved through the expert and skilful use of colour. Colour used on live human skin requires a great deal of both knowledge and skill. This is because skin colour is not static. It is constantly changing due to external stimulus and internal activities. So choosing the right colour to impregnate into the skin can be quite a challenge. There is so much information about undertones and overtones when it comes to colour, and in my opinion this topic isn’t given enough coverage during basic training classes. Particularly, when in actual fact it is one of the most important topics that we need to master if we are to produce successful results from our cosmetic tattooing procedures. Indeed, there is no point in producing a beautifully shaped brow if it heals as an odd colour in the skin. Therefore successful results in any cosmetic tattooing procedure start with understanding of skin tones. Skin undertones have many complexities, especially when you combine a person’s base colour with sun exposure and ethnicity.

Selecting the right pigment that will best work with a person’s skin undertone and after healing will deliver the desired result requires skill and a thorough understanding of both a person’s skin undertone, as well as how this can be masked by the skin's overtones. Remember that you are tattooing a colour into an already coloured canvas that is not static. Several factors can influence its colour changes – hormones, liver toxicity, diabetes and other illnesses, as well as medication, sun exposure and environment factors, or even cosmetics used that have bleaching effect such as vitamin C or glycolic acid. On the other hand, once pigment is tattooed into a person’s skin the new skin covers the pigment and the person’s undertone influences how the pigment appears once healed in the skin. So I’m going to attempt to come at skin undertones from a very different angle. You know the issue of colour can be very complex and that’s why many struggle with this subject. Traditional colour theory is very different to implanting pigment into someone’s skin. It might appear similar when you mix pretty colours together and smear them on to a piece of white paper, but remember the colour you have applied to the paper is a true colour, it is not filtered by skin and the skin’s complexities. Let’s not think about the pigment colour for a moment and let’s just think about the skin. Currently I am studying for the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) so I’m beginning to realise how important it is for everyone to know that when you implant pigment colours into the skin that implanted pigment colour is competing with components of our integumentry system, and all these structures and cells influence what happens to the pigment colour you want to implant into the skin.

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So what is in the skin that would influence implanted pigment colour? Let’s have a look into the skin structure and what’s contained in it; adipose tissue, nerves, sweat glands, hair follicles, sebaceous oil glands, arteries, veins and capillaries, collagen and elastic fibres and, of course within the epidermis, which is the filtering part for the pigment colour, we have many

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cells that play a role in the skin's undertones, including keratinocytes producing keratin, melanocytes producing melanin, basal cells, langerhans and merkel cells. Dark-skinned individuals have large amounts of melanin in their epidermis so their skin can range in colour from yellow, reddish brown to black. This skin type has 60 to 70% higher lipid content and has larger sebaceous glands and a higher concentration of skin cells, and these skin types have a tendency to develop postinflammatory hyper-pigmentation (PIH) so a lighter hand should be applied during the cosmetic tattooing procedure. Lip tattooing is risky and not recommended because of risks of hyperpigmentation. Light skinned individuals have little melanin in the epidermis so the epidermis appears translucent and the skin colour ranges from pink to red, depending on the oxygen content of the blood moving through the capillaries in the dermis. The red colour is due to haemoglobin, the oxygen-carrying pigment in red blood cells and carotene is a yellow-orange pigment that is stored in the skin. While oxygenated blood is red in colour as found in arteries, de-oxygenated blood, as found in veins and capillaries, is blue or violet in colour and these colours are often reflected through the skin. So let’s simplify things. When it comes to implanting pigments into the skin, because of the reasons I have stated above, you will find that these activities will create an environment that will cool most cosmetic tattoo pigment colours when implanted into the skin. For this reason I tend to apply the following as a guide to my own pigment selections:

Light skin tones that are classified as Type 1-II on the Fitzpatrick scale, I use yellow-based pigments. Medium and dark skin tones that are classified as Type III-IV I use green or black-based pigments, accompanied by a modifier to introduce warmth that is needed in order to heal into a cool undertone.

IN SUMMARY We must remember that the skin is a living organ. The factors that contribute to its colour are melanin, carotene and haemoglobin, which is found in the blood. So even if the skin appears red, which in traditional colour theory is a warm colour, once impregnated into the skin, which is vascular, it will appear red-violet, and that is cool. Furthermore, the pigment is inserted into the papillary dermis. There it is engulfed and filtered by skin cells where the pigment contends with many other factors that will influence the end colour. It is therefore important to remember that inserting pigment into the skin is not the same as applying colour to white paper. Over time I have therefore come to believe that the general rule to apply is that many of your clients will predominantly manifest a cool skin. Christine Comans is a qualified and highly respected cosmetic tattooist based in Perth who specialises in medical cosmetic tattooing. Her work is highly regarded by several plastic surgeons who keep her busy through constant referrals of their patients to her for several procedures, including nipple areola after mastectomy. Christine is also passionate about industry standards and has been appointed as the Co-ordinator for the APAN membership classification – COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER.

Christine is also an accredited trainer who delivers training to a government-approved qualification level. If you wish to upgrade your qualifications to government-approved standards or enter this exciting profession by training as a cosmetic tattooist please contact Christine on:

A REPORT FROM CHRISTINE COMANS APAN Co-ordinator Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitionerer We are living in exciting times – Cosmetic Tattooing is reaching a new standard in Australia. As several practices such as laser and IPL are currently being reviewed for the introduction of regulatory changes, so Cosmetic Tattooing is now also being reviewed. In the very near future we can expect to be introduced to stricter government measures, and as an industry we need to prepare and re-evaluate our position. Supportive of industry concerns and unrest, APAN has taken the baton to establish a new industry classification that will offer Cosmetic Tattooists strong recognition and provide an effective path for a more secure future. Launching a new membership classification to represent these standards – COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER is set to revolutionise the recognition and integrity of this profession and pave the way to a profession that is identified by best practice and in line with Australian Standards. A heart-warming welcome to all our colleagues as we begin our evolving journey towards a strong, more professional identity. For those who are tired of mediocre as the status quo, here is your chance to join a professional community where positive chance are in store. Being part of change can be unsettling, but it is encouraging to know that we have the support of a strong professional body that is doing so much to protect our future and to raise our professional status.

LOOKING AHEAD TO A BETTER FUTURE This is a new era and a very exciting time for our industry and we look forward to working collaboratively with everyone to achieve best practice. So I encourage you all to join this community of practice and help as together we shape a better future. As Henry Ford famously stated: “Coming together is a beginning, staying together is progress and working together is success.” Indeed, we would all agree that there is power in unity. Working together is the key to our success. Staying united together as members will help us achieve progress both for ourselves and the broader Cosmetic Tattoo profession in Australia, as together we define the changes we desire for our industry. If you are a Cosmetic Tattooist and wish to join and be part of this vibrant community of practice then consider the benefits of gaining the recognition and support provided to you through Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP). For full details on what this membership will offer you please see pages 22-23. As I am writing today there is a strong sense of camaraderie developing among my colleagues due to their mutual desire to see improvement in standards and ethics in our industry. For me there is an exciting buzz in the air as we look forward to what’s ahead for our profession. Thank you to all the individuals showing leadership, passion and commitment as we all work together towards a common goal, and to the many other cosmetic tattooists we welcome you to participate with us as members and joining in conversation on our Forum – Urban Aesthetic Culture on Facebook.

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0419 965 933 or Email: comanschristine@gmail.com

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skintreatments

Can Microneedling Cause Hyperpigmentation? by Dr Lance Setterfield Hyperpigmenatation is a very common condition – particularly in countries such as Australia where the sun is prevalent for many months during the year and where outdoor living is very common. Hyperpigmenation is commonly identified as a primary sign of ageing skin, so when present, it often takes precedence as a priority concern over other skin deficiencies – at least, in the eyes of most clients/patients. Let's face it, pigmentation can make a good skin look dull and unattractive. As the popularity of microneedling is gaining momentum in improving skin tone and elasticity, the common question arising is how will this modality affect hyperpigmentation, and will it cause or contribute to the problem due to the post-inflammatory response that results after this treatment is performed? Dr Lance Setterfield is considered a foremost educator in the science and practice of microneedling. In this article he addresses this concern and offers solid scientific rationale on the subject. The question as to whether hyperpigmentation occurs due to microneedling is brought up repeatedly. The obvious question is that if “post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation” (PIH) is common in darker skin types, why would needling not be considered “high risk” in these patients, given that inflammation results with needling? The answer hinges around the degree and duration of inflammation. This response is typically not prolonged, nor is it as intense after needling when compared to other treatment modalities. Microneedling stimulates production of TGF-B3, which has antiinflammatory effects. It also stimulates TGF-B1, which restricts pigment formation through down-regulation of tyrosinase via decreased gene expression as well as decreasing its intracellular half-life.1 Also, anti-inflammatory skincare ingredients, such as phosphatidylcholine, typically used in conjunction with needling, limit the inflammatory response. There are other mechanisms due to microneedling that normalise pigment formation as well, which I won’t discuss here. The problem with hyperpigmentation is that there are so many variables and it is almost impossible to determine the underlying

cause with complete certainty. It usually involves multiple factors. Yes, there are the typical causes that we tend to focus on, such as sun exposure, PIH, smoking, genetics, hormones, photosensitising meds and skincare products, etc. (the list is too extensive to include here), as well as some lesser-known causes that are discussed below. Microneedling is touted as being colour blind, although it is the microneedling in conjunction with (and you can fill in the blanks with chemical peels, photosensitisers, sun exposure, etc.) that results in hyperpigmentation. Microneedling is never done in isolation. Life happens. Avoiding sun exposure is virtually impossible in the weeks following treatment. Women have hormones that influence melanogenesis. Many people are on medications that cannot be discontinued that are photosensitisers. Patients on the high end of the Fitzpatrick scale are exceptionally capable of producing pigment, and once we have awakened the sleeping giant with rejuvenation treatments, all the traditional treatments for pigmentation such as IPL, Laser and Chemical Peels provoke a perturbed cell even more. In summary, microneedling in isolation regulates and normalises pigment formation, both at a melanocyte and keratinocyte level. It does not cause hyperpigmentation without other influencing factors.

Here are some additional lesser-known things to ponder: For those of you who have completed my Online Course and attended my live class, you will recall that light stimulation of the pituitary gland via the retina can increase MSH (Melanin Stimulating Hormone), so pigment can increase while indoors looking at a computer screen all day. A lesser-known cause of hyperpigmentation pertains to temperature. If you were to treat someone who lived in a hot climate, but hypothetically lived in the dark (a vampire for instance), they could still develop hyperpigmentation. This mechanism is poorly understood. One theory is that increased perfusion drives the melanogenesis equation to production via an abundance of precursors for melanin, although I have not found any studies to verify this. However, increased

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temperature does accelerate the tyrosinase reaction and is thought to explain hyperpigmentation found in skin chronically exposed to heat sources and body folds. 2 There is also a condition called “erythema ab igne”, where pigmentation results due to angiogenesis caused by heat exposure, e.g. hot water bottle, laptop, ovens, etc. It is thought that chronic vasodilatation from heat leads to leaking of inflammatory cells into the tissue, with ensuing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. As a side note, pH also affects melanogenesis. One study showed that melanin synthesis is maximal at a pH of 6.8 and melanin production is suppressed by lowering melanosome pH 3. Conventional wisdom maintains that the chief mechanism of action with most chemical peels is through exfoliation, but there may well be other mechanisms that play a greater role than we think. Not that I want to encourage you to rush to this treatment modality as a first choice in treating hyperpigmentation, because exfoliating the natural barrier, along with the bilayers, has its own drawbacks that complicate the cascades of wound healing triggered by microneedling. Chemical peels, by definition, cause inflammation. This adds fuel to the fire in patients at high risk for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Due to the power of microneedling pens compared with rollers, it is easier to over-treat the skin with electronic devices, especially when some recommend bleeding and maceration as the endpoint. This inevitably also creates significant inflammation, and thus combining chemical peels with microneedling increases the risk of PIH considerably in high-Fitz patients. In essence, microneedling is a proven treatment for optimising skin health that is superior in many ways to other treatment modalities, but, like most things in life, it has its limitations.

In our quest for maximising results beyond these limitations we often try to amplify the positive effects by adding other treatment modalities, forgetting that microneedling may also amplify the negative effects of these treatments through increased absorption or inflammation. Frequently, these problems arise when pushing the envelope while trying to compete with practitioners that have greater scope of practice in an attempt to equal their results. A good example of this is when aestheticians use a cosmetic roller and occlusion to enhance penetration of topical anaesthetic, thus converting an over-the-counter product into a “drug” that would normally require a prescription to attain those levels of effectiveness. This defeats the purpose of imposing dose-level restrictions and removes the very protection it was supposed to afford the practitioner (and client/patient) according to their level of ability and responsibility should an emergency occur, such as cardiac arrest. Again, I urge practitioners to stay within their scope of practice. Less is best. Accept that microneedling has limitations. Accept your own limitations (scope), and rest in the knowledge that pigmentation disorders are extremely complex and we cannot always fix everything that comes through our doors. Keep it simple and keep it safe.

Reference: 1. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11470231 2.http://www.nature.com/jid/journal/v32/n2/full/jid195938a.html; http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2FBF02980030#page-1 3. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11461115

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2015 “State of the Art” Review:

NECK REJUVENATION Louisa McKay Communications Director, Costhetics

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As the pendulum is swinging towards more natural results when it comes to cosmetic enhancement, consumers are starting to focus on the tell-tale signs of ageing that are evident not just on the face, but also on the neck. As we age and the skin becomes thinner and muscles less toned, the neck will often betray the creeping years. In this article Louisa McKay shares with us the latest surgical and non-surgical procedures. As you will see, consumers are leaning as much as possible towards non-surgical solutions. A newly approved treatment, pioneering practitioners and a broader range of neck-lift procedures are making 2015 a noteworthy year for neck rejuvenation. This is good news for consumers who routinely hide their double chins, turkey necks and sagging skin with turtlenecks.

Surgery Reigns Supreme, But Non-Surgical Options are Winning Over Patients The desire for a youthful appearance has never been greater, and the superior long-term benefits of cosmetic surgery are well documented. However, a market report published by British firm Key Note found: “In 2014, the demand for cosmetic surgery decreased for the first time in 10 years…. The number of procedures fell by 3.6% to 726,633 in total. Figures [come] from a variety of sources, including the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS) which represents more than 200 cosmetic surgeons." This trend is reflected in neck-lift rejuvenation. While surgical solutions are the platinum standard in neck rejuvenation, nonsurgical options with consumer-friendly names such as the “Trampoline Lift” and “The Nefertiti” are increasingly in demand. More and more patients fighting unwelcome signs of ageing feel that non-surgical neck-lift treatments are the better options. Their reasons include:

• • • •

Are less expensive than the surgical equivalent Provide faster results Have fewer risks than surgery Are a way to postpone more extensive procedures

Manufacturers have responded to this shift with increased research and development into minimally invasive procedures. Here are some of the most innovative: New Injectable Just Approved to Slim Down Double Chin In April of 2015, the New York Times reported on FDA approval for Kybella, a cosmetic injectable that works to reduce moderate to severe fat deposits. The active ingredient is deoxycholic acid, delivered by injection with tiny needles (up to 50 per session) and inserted into the fat deposits under the jawline.

drug’s effectiveness, identified these downsides to neck rejuvenation with Kybella:

• • • • •

Patients must commit to multiple visits Bruising Swelling People with more fat have more swelling (which generally subsides in 2-3 days) It can destroy skin cells if improperly injected

Four Benefits in Helping Necks “Bounce Back” One non-surgical pathway to neck rejuvenation is the trampoline neck lift. It is a minimally invasive procedure that derives its name from the delivery of improved skin tone likened to the tautness of a trampoline. The National Institutes of Health in the U.S. assessed it and determined it to be “… effective and durable in properly selected patients. It works well as a stand-alone procedure and in conjunction with facelift procedures. It also offers younger patients a less-invasive option to improve neck contours inherited through genetics. After nearly three years of follow-up of the patients in this report, the results appear to be long-lasting.” This platysmaplasty is performed with un-barbed, braided polyester suture. The surgeon places a suture “lattice” (similar to a shoelace) across the entire region beneath the jawline by weaving suture material under the skin through a series of small punctures. When the lacing is done the suture is tightened and secured. This immediately lifts both the neck skin and underlying muscles. The chief advantage of this procedure are:

• • • •

Minimal incisions Reduced swelling Reduced bruising Less scarring

The King of Forehead Rejuvenation Becomes the Queen of Neck Lifts Advocates of Botox (and Dysport) say they improve jawline definition and give patients an “instant neck lift” worthy of the beautiful Queen Nefertiti herself. It may not be hyperbole. A study published by the US National Library of Medicine found that for this approach to neckbands and sagging neck skin: “Patient satisfaction is extremely high and the specificity of dosing and technique has led to a low incidence of adverse effects. The 'Nefertiti lift' is a minimally invasive, effective and acceptable alternative for those patients seeking an effective way to push back surgery.”

Kythera Biopharmaceuticals conducted two randomised trials to assess the efficacy of their product.

Rejuvenation is achieved by placing multiple injections along the platysma muscle and along the lower jawline. The drug action rebalances the underlying muscles to provide a “lift” to the neck and jaw area.

“I have found Kybella extremely useful in treating patients who are troubled by excess under-chin fat, but whose skin is still toned,” reports Dr Jonathan Sykes, a Facial Plastic Surgeon who is based in California. Sykes has been in practice for 32 years and specialises in facial plastic surgery within the head and neck.

Patients are enthusiastic about benefits, which are visible in as few as three to five days. There are few risks and almost no complications arise when a trained professional administers the treatment.

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For optimal results, treatments are continued for two to six months, in sessions of roughly 20 minutes each.

Patient Education Drives Patient Satisfaction

Dermatologist Derek H. Jones, principal investigator in a trial of the

Time devoted to explaining in detail the pros and cons of surgical and non-surgical neck rejuvenation procedures:

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•

Clarifies misconceptions about what to expect in terms of the procedure and the results.

•

Makes patients a part of the process so they feel less out of control.

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Showcases the practitioners’ skill and knowledge, which eases patients’ fears.

With a dizzying number of options, consumers are understandably feeling lost and confused. Their confusion serves as a major obstacle in choosing to address the problems of an ageing face and neck. Patient education is the best remedy.

Louisa McKay is the Communications Director for Costhetics, Australia’s leading online resource for cosmetic enhancement news and information.

SOURCES: Key Note - https://www.keynote.co.uk/market-sectors New York Times http://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/01/health/injectionkybella-double-chin.html?_r=0 FDA http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/orga nizations/f/food_and_drug_administration/index.html?in line=nyt-org KytheraBiof - http://www.kythera.com/ Dr Jonathan Sykes https://www.ucdmc.ucdavis.edu/otolaryngology/ourtea m/faculty/sykes.html National Institutes of Health http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22231408 100

U.S. National Library of Medicine http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18236245 ABC News http://www.abcactionnews.com/news/health/the-nonsurgical-neck-lift-does-it-work

salonbusiness

THE BENEFITS OF MUSIC IN YOUR BUSINESS and Copyright laws by Tina Viney

One important element in a salon or clinic is the need to create ambience, and music can be a very effective tool in helping and encouraging a client's level of calm and relaxation in preparation and during a treatment. While there are several techniques that can achieve this, music is one of the most effective tools. There are numerous studies that support the effect that music has on mood, cognitive behaviour and even purchasing behaviour. The impact of music can play an amazing role in client/patient behaviour and contribute to the mood and atmosphere you wish to create. While this article is predominantly focused on the regulatory issues, I do want to include a small section on how music influences our behaviour and to support its importance to a service-based environment.

MUSIC AND BEHAVIOUR Music can have a huge impact on emotional and even physical health. Studies have consistently shown the tremendously positive effect music education has on a child’s academic performance, sense of community, self-expression and self-esteem. When it comes to behaviour there are also numerous studies that have explored the impact of music to health as well as how it can influence our shopping behaviour. According to the British Academy of Sound Therapy, the song ‘eightless is the most relaxing song ever recorded. The institution, in collaboration with English musical trio Marconi Union, produced

the quintessential tranquillity track using numerous scientific theories that are known to have calming effects. The study was conducted on 40 women, who were then given timed puzzle games in order to create a stressful environment. The women were connected to sensors in order to test their heart rate and blood pressure while different songs were played. Dr. David Lewis-Hodgson, Director of Research at Mindlab International, who conducted the study, stated that the study clearly showed that the song “induced the greatest relaxation – higher than any of the other music tested. “In fact,” he pointed out, Weightless was so effective, many women became drowsy, and I would advise against driving while listening to the song because it could be dangerous.” The study, commissioned by Rodox Spa, further showed that when the song was played it caused a 65 percent decline in overall anxiety. The eight-minute composition features conventional instruments like guitar and piano, but also includes samples of natural soundscapes and implements specific sound therapy principles to calm the listener. It was interesting to note that Weightless starts at 60 beats per minute, but then gradually slows down to 50, causing the listener’s heartbeat to match the BPMs of the track. According to the researchers there are also no repetitive melodies in the song. This feature also helped to prevent the brain from trying to predict what

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happens next, allowing it to essentially “switch off”. Further studies confirmed the following: ! When listening to classical music people tend to purchase the more expensive or prestigious item ! People usually stay around if the music is relatively unfamiliar than if the music they are listening to is very familiar ! Medical research also confirms that instrumental music that is free-flowing is the most relaxing. A further study at Kingston University has shown that listening to Symbiosis can reduce the heartbeat rate, and therefore help people to relax. In tests, music from Touching the Clouds was found to be the most successful at reducing the pulse, tying in first place with a slow movement by Vivaldi. If you are looking for music that has been medically researched to induce the most relaxation, here is the link to the 10 most relaxing musical pieces. It is worth listening to them and experiencing their impact. Http://www.ryot.org/scientists-create-relaxing-songworld/375837

PLAYING MUSIC IN YOUR BUSINESS Playing the right kind of music in your business can be very valuable. It can help to:

• • • •

The copyright applies to music created in Australia and most other countries.

LICENSING FOR MUSIC IN YOUR BUSINESS If you're using music for any purpose in your business, you should make sure you have the right licences. This includes having live music, using music in the background to create atmosphere, or even using music in the background of short advertising videos for social media. Even if you have paid for a music track, it may not automatically give you the right to use it. You need to check the terms and conditions of your purchase to see what it is licensed for.

Assist your clients relax and benefit from their treatment Set the atmosphere of your retail space Sell your business's brand and theme Attract the right clients

When choosing to play music in your clinic or salon you need to make sure you have the right permissions.

COPYRIGHT FOR MUSIC IN AUSTRALIA Now let's look at the laws that govern playing music in a business environment. In Australia, music is automatically protected by copyright from the time an original work is created – it doesn't need to be registered in order to be protected. This means that only the copyright owners of the music have certain rights to the music, including the right to:

• • •

perform or play the music in public

•

decide how their music may be used by others.

Certain organisations can offer blanket licences that will give you the rights to play a number of approved tracks in your business. If you want to learn more about licensing there is a great website that can assist you. Visit the Australian Business Licensing and Information Services (ABLIS) https://ablis.business.gov.au/pages/home.aspx to work out what kind of licences you need and where you can obtain the licences.

WHAT CAN HAPPEN IF I DON'T GET LICENCES FOR THE MUSIC I USE? If you're found to be breaching copyright, a range of penalties can apply, from fines to imprisonment. To avoid incurring such penalties, it is recommended that you get the right licences before using music in your business. To help you better understand this area of legislation here are some common questions and answers:

make copies of the music

communicate the music to the public (e.g. broadcasting or making it available online)

What’s copyright? When someone creates a piece of music (or a piece of text, a graphic, a photo, a film or anything else that is protected under copyright laws) a whole system of legal rights and obligations come into play. These rights and obligations outline what someone can and can't do with the material. Who owns the copyright in a piece of music? There is generally more than one owner of copyright in any given musical track. The composer who wrote the music owns copyright in the musical works. The lyricist who wrote the lyrics owns copyright in the literary works. The artist who performed the music owns copyright in a sound recording of their live performance. Finally, the maker of the recording (typically a record company) owns copyright in the sound recording. What rights do the copyright owners have? The copyright owners (i.e. the owner of the work and the owner of the recording respectively) have a number of exclusive rights, including the right to:

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• • •

Make copies of the tracks; Perform music in public (eg by playing the tracks in hotel, café or retail stores); and Communicate the tracks to the public.

I bought a legitimate CD. Can I make copies for use in my business? The purchase of a CD gives you the right to own the physical disc, to play it privately, and to pass on the same physical disc to another person. This means that copying the music from a CD including on to an iPod, without the permission of all relevant copyright owners, is an infringement of copyright, except in very limited circumstances. The Copyright Act allows you to “format shift” music for personal use, for example, to copy from CD format to MP3 format in certain limited situations. However, this does not extend to use of the music in a café, restaurant or retail store. If you want to copy your legitimate CDs on to an iPod or on to other CDs to play as background music in a commercial setting, you must get:

•

A licence from the relevant record company for the reproduction of the sound recording (contact the Licensing Department of the relevant record company). ARIA and PPCA offer “blanket” licences for these purposes; and

•

A licence from AMCOS for the reproduction of the music. Generally, AMCOS will offer a “blanket” licence, which allows you to be covered for all reproduction of musical and literary works for certain purposes.

Can I download music from the internet and play it in my business? The basic principle is that you cannot copy or distribute music including from the internet without the permission of all relevant copyright owners. There are a number of legitimate download sites in Australia that are listed at www.pro-music.org If you legitimately buy music from iTunes or other legal online distributors you should check their relevant terms and conditions to make sure that you are licensed for the relevant purpose, including to use as background music in a café or retail store. What about downloading music through file-sharing? Unless authorised, the vast bulk of P2P 'file sharing' is considered unauthorised copying and transmission of copyright material. This activity hurts sales of music and the livelihoods of people, in the business including your favourite artists.

What if I download music to use in my café from a site overseas where the law might be different? Internet activities of this sort typically involve acts of copying, transmission or distribution in both the ‘receiving and sending’ countries and laws of each will apply. Be aware that if you download music files to your PC located in Australia, without the copyright owners' permission, you are committing an infringement of copyright under Australian law. Do I need any licences to play legitimately purchased music in my business? Yes, there are a number of licences that may apply depending on how you are using the music. Basically the owner or operator of the café, restaurant or retail store needs a PPCA public performance licence to play protected sound recordings and an APRA public performance licence to play the musical and literary works. Further, the sound recordings used must be licensed copies. What are the consequences? Penalties for copyright infringement range from injunctions, damages and costs through to fines of up to $60,500 for individuals and up to $302,500 for corporations for each infringement and/or up to five years’ imprisonment per offence. Police can also issue onthe-spot fines of $1320 per offence and seize any pirate product. If you are looking at investing in music for your business it pays to ensure that you are not breaking the law in any way. Taking the right precautions will ensure that music can be sweet, both for your clients and your business. Need more information? Music Rights Australia info@musicrights.com.au APRA|AMCOS Apra@apra.com.au PPCA Ppca.mail@ppca.com.au ARIA Licensing.aria@aria.com.au

www.musicrights.com.au (02) 8569 1177 www.apra-amcos.com.au (02) 9935 7900 www.ppca.com.au (02) 8569 1111 www.aria.com.au (02) 8569 1144

Reference: Charles S. Areni and David Kim (1993) ,"The Influence of Background Music on Shopping Behavior: Classical Versus TopForty Music in a Wine Store", in NA – Advances in Consumer Research Volume 20, eds. Leigh McAlister and Michael L. Rothschild, Provo, UT : Association for Consumer Research, Pages: 336-340.

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Introducing a new and exciting classification for Cosmetic Tattooists –

COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) Supportive of industry concerns and unrest, APAN has taken the baton to establish a new industry classification that will offer Cosmetic Tattooists strong recognition and provide an effective path for a more secure future. Launching a new membership classification – COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) – is set to revolutionise the recognition and integrity of this profession and pave the way to a profession that is identified by best practice and in line with Australian Standards.

The standards of this program will also be aligned with APAN's corporate vision which is to break new ground and open communication and educational pathways that elevate the integrity and advancement of the profession as credible and valuable for the wellbeing of its consumers. This elite group of members are differentiated in their identity with peer organisations as the most qualified practitioners who adhere to the highest industry standards and best practice. They are promoted to consumers as leaders in their field and preferred practitioners.

The decision to launch CTARP as a registered membership classification was industry-driven and came after several qualified and experienced cosmetic tattooists were concerned with the deteriorating training standards that are currently delivered across most States, in particular with training offered to non-cosmetic tattooists to just do eyebrows.

GUARDIAN OF THE INDUSTRY As the industry is evolving with new technologies and advances are being introduced, the need for higher standards are across every modality, and this means a stronger commitment to formal education that is objective and can be measured and benchmarked against Australian Standards. True to its core values of Innovation, Guidance and Integrity and its commitment to the industry, APAN is recognised as the aesthetic industry's Guardian. As an industry body it is establishing new innovative structures that will facilitate better collaboration with government bodies and assist in recommending regulatory changes that will best serve the industry, will not disadvantage qualified practitioners and businesses, while paving the way for a more secure and better future. It is important to understand that CTARP is not a random structure. It has been designed to reflect the APAN core values and to fit within a comprehensive infrastructure that will redefine and provide a stronger foundation for the emerging new breed of skin and age management expert – whether they are qualified dermal clinicians, cosmetic nurses, aesthetic practitioners or cosmetic tattoo practitioners. This infrastructure will include a SALON AND CLINIC A C C R E D I TAT I O N P R O G R A M a s w e l l a s a s e p a r a t e PRACTITIONER ACCREDITATION PROGRAM for individual practitioners. The new Accreditation Programs will be established on a foundation of integrity and will be aligned and meet with Australian Standards Guidelines. On this foundation the aesthetics industry will re-emerge with a stronger identity and with clearly defined standards that will offer quality assurance to consumers and reflect best practice. This is a very exciting initiative, and while aspects of this program will be progressively introduced this year, it will be formally launched in 2016. 100

T H E N E W B R E E D O F C O S M E T I C TAT TO O PRACTITIONER This new classification will give practitioners a formal identity as defined by the standards set out by an independent peak industry body that contribute to uniform industry standards. It will give practitioners the opportunity to be recognised for their commitment to excellence in their profession and profile them as such to the public. Members will be encouraged to assist their colleagues and openly share their knowledge and skills with other practitioners in the field of Cosmetic Tattooing for the on-going improvement of the standards of practice.

To join CTARP the following prerequisite will be required:

* *

Must be a current financial member of APAN Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing 25

Applicants applying to become a Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) must provide evidence of their Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing.

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Membership requirements: * Adhere to the APAN CODE OF ETHICS (Cosmetic Tattooing) and the relevant Australian Regulations as set out by their State jurisdiction. A signed copy of this must be returned to the APAN Office. (Please note: If members also hold an American association affiliation they must understand that if there is any conflict in their Code of Ethics the Australian Code and regulatory requirements will over-rule). * Adhere to the CTARP Code of Conduct.

Renewal requirements: * Maintain currency of APAN Membership * Evidence that the member has participated in post-graduate training within 24 months * Evidence of attending at least one APAN conference per year.

Additional Members Benefits: Special Membership Certificate Special Membership Card Industry Code of Ethics (Cosmetic Tattooing) CTARP Code of Conduct Transparent CTARP logo for business window or door Included on APAN Website as preferred practitioners Other benefits from time-to-time

Cost of CTARP Membership: CTARP Membership $110

Become An

EXPERT Cosmetic Tattooing has come a long way over the years. New, more sophisticated tools, new techniques and trends can allow a skilled and welltrained practitioner to become very much in demand. Ever-growing in popularity, Cosmetic Tattooing offers an amazing and very fulfilling career with tremendous scope, both for those who are artistic and those who are compassionate and nurturing. Sara Naderi is a qualified beauty therapist and Cosmetic Tattooist who has international training and over 20 yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; experience in Cosmetic Tattooing. Training with Sara will allow you to benefit from her expert techniques, while you can also qualify to receive government-approved qualifications in SIBBSKS504A Design & Perform Cosmetic Tattooing.

Sara is a APAN Corporate Platinum (Cosmetic Tattoo) Member Member of the Australasian Cosmetic Tattoo Professionals

COURSES AVAILABLE: ! Initial Training in Cosmetic Tattooing to Governmentapproved qualifications ! Refresher courses to advance your skills and knowledge in Eyeline, Lipliner, Full lip, Eyebrow techniques Sara is also a specialist in Eyebrow Threading and offers highly skilled training in her unique method. Other courses also available.

PUREBEAU NEW GENERATION COSMETIC TATTOO PIGMENTS AND EQUIPMENT

If you require further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com If you are committed to high standards of educational excellence and best practice consider joining APAN and become a member of CTARP and be recognised among Australia's leading Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioners.

Sara is also the Exclusive Distributor of the German-made world-leading Cosmetic Tattooing pigments and equipment PUREBEAU. Sophisticated and outstanding new high-tech equipment that meets with European and Australian standards and offers state-of-the-art solutions to allow for safe, effective and precise application of cosmetic tattooing and medical pigmentation. For further information on training or to enquire about our amazing world-leading devices and pigments contact PUREBEAU Australia E: info@purebeau.com.au P: 1300 667 719 | M: 0405 463 636 W: www.purebeau.com.au | W: www.schb.com.au APJ 66

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bodytreatments

CELLULITE AND OBESITY The new business-growth opportunity by Tina Viney In my interaction with government agencies I have identified that they are extremely interested in supporting our industry if they are presented with any services or activities where we can help lessen the Government's financial burden and which relate to health. The two areas that can be serviced by our industry and that would fit this criteria are skin-cancer prevention and weight loss (body shaping and cellulite treatments) that support consumers against obesity.

For those of you who are aesthetic therapists you must be cautious not to neglect the body and only focus on the skin. You are more than a skin therapist â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you are an aesthetic therapist, and this includes training in not just the face, but the whole body. While skin-cancer prevention is a complete topic in itself, for the

purpose of this article, however, I would like to focus on the issue of obesity and weight loss as well as hindering factors such as cellulite. There are some amazing possibilities for business growth in this area if we plan and design our services correctly. Furthermore, any treatment that contributes to health benefits would open the possibility of securing Health Rebates for these services. How great would that be, and beneficial to our industry, if we moved in that direction and opened up a new door for substantial business growth? So let's look at this topic more closely and its possibilities.

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OBESITY IN AUSTRALIA

Following a heavy workload for a consistent few months I was starting to experience a great deal of exhaustion, so my husband and

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I took a weekend off to rest and we chose to stay at the Sofitel in Brisbane. This is a large five-Star hotel with guests that would predominantly fit into the middle to upper financial income bracket. The following morning we entered the restaurant for breakfast. The room was relatively large and there would have been approximately 120 guests there at the time of our visit. While waiting to be served I took a quick look around at the guests and observed an interesting phenomenon. Approximately 60% of the guests were noticeably overweight, while at least 30% would be classified as obese. This was quite alarming to mem as compared to 15 years ago the percentage of obesity in Australia has risen considerably. I therefore decided to do a little research on the matter to investigate what the statistics are indicating and how we as an industry can offer our help to the community. According to the latest research Australia is today ranked as one of the fattest nations in the developed world. The prevalence of obesity in Australia has more than doubled in the past 20 years. Here is a round-up of Australian obesity facts and figures according to a report from Monash University:

• •

Fourteen million Australians are overweight or obese. More than five million Australians are obese (BMI ≥ 30 kg/m2 ).

•

If weight gain continues at current levels, by 2025 close to 80% of all Australian adults and a third of all children will be overweight or obese.

•

Obesity has overtaken smoking as the leading cause of premature death and illness in Australia.

•

Obesity has become the single biggest threat to public health in Australia.

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On the basis of present trends we can predict that by the time they reach the age of 20 our kids will have a shorter life expectancy than earlier generations simply because of obesity.

•

Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Australians are 1.9 times as likely as non-indigenous Australians to be obese.

THE IMPACT ON THE HEALTH AND HEALTHCARE SYSTEM I would like to present to you some insightful information as presented in the latest Government Evidence Brief Report that was released this year entitled: Obesity: Prevalent Trends in Australia. Obesity contributes to several health complications and this leads to a huge financial burden on the Government. Secondary Complications include:

• •

•

• •

More than 900,000 Australians suffer from diabetes Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Australians have the fourth highest rate of Type 2 diabetes (non-insulin dependent diabetes mellitus, or NIDDM) in the world and are 1.9 times as likely as non-indigenous Australians to be obese Australians reporting heart, stroke and vascular diseases aged 15 years and over were much more likely to be classified as overweight or obese than those without heart stroke and vascular disease (65% compared with 51%). Health disorders in children like type 2 diabetes, high blood pressure, asthma, hypertension and sleep apnea can be directly attributed to childhood obesity. Cardiovascular disease (CVD), diabetes and chronic kidney

disease (CKD) account for approximately a quarter of the burden of disease in Australia, and just under two-thirds of all deaths. These three diseases often occur together and share risk factors, such as physical inactivity, overweight and obesity and high blood pressure.

WHY IS OBESITY INCREASING? At the simplest level, obesity is caused by an imbalance between the amount of energy taken in through food and drink, and the amount of energy used by activities of daily life. The unused energy is stored as fat. While it is known that the risk of obesity is influenced by genetics, diet and physical activity, there is growing interest in what is termed the obesogenic environment. The way our social and physical environment is changing tends to encourage obesity-promoting behaviours and discourages appropriate eating and physical activity behaviours. Urban design and the built environment can discourage physical activity and active travel, and influence the easy access of unhealthy food. Changes to the food supply have led to the ready availability of cheap, high-kilojoule processed foods that are aggressively marketed. The portion size of snack foods, sweetened drinks and takeaway food have increased and their relative cost has decreased, while the relative cost of fresh produce has increased. Changes to occupational structure and work environments have led to the replacement of physically active workplaces with desk-bound and sedentary occupations. In addition, longer working hours leave less time for food preparation, family recreation and physical activity. Recent research has strengthened previous theories about the importance of a number of factors that can increase the risk of being above a healthy weight, including: ! Stress – including financial stress ! Lack of access to green space ! Access to unhealthy food and lack of access to healthy food ! Access to healthcare and support concerning obesity ! Poor sleep The specific mechanism are uncertain, but involve considerations of physical and mental wellbeing, the means and time to follow a healthy diet, the means and time for physical activity and the potential health benefits of restoration through sleep.

WHY OBESITY MATTERS? Adults who are obese are more likely to die younger than those who are not. Life expectancy is reduced by 2-4 years of those who have an BMI between 30-35 kg/m2 and by 8-10 years for those with BMI between 40-45kg/m2. Obese adults are more likely to develop high blood pressure, type 2 diabetes, coronary heart disease, stroke, joint problems and at least eight different types of cancer. They are also more likely to have all the indicators on blood tests that suggest chronic diseases, if not already apparent, will soon develop. Obese adults are also prone to develop a range of debilitating conditions that can affect their quality of life, such as arthritis, back pain, respiratory difficulty, skin problems and sleep apnoea, as well as risk social exclusion. Obesity is also often associated with psycho-social problems such as low self-esteem and depressive symptoms, many of which appear to result from the negative cultural bias and prejudice against obese people.

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COST TO THE AUSTRALIAN ECONOMY Obesity is a significant national issue with Australia's rate being above a healthy weight and one of the highest in developing nations. Based on health services utilisation and health-related expenditure

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changes in the structure of the fat lobules. As the collagen septa become fibrotic lymph removal is further slowed and the condition progresses.

date from individuals, the economic costs of being above a healthy weight in 2005 for adults alone was estimated at $21 billion in direct healthcare and direct non-healthcare costs, plus an additional $35.6 billion in government subsidies. An analysis undertaken by KPMG estimated the total direct and indirect cost of obesity in 2008-09 to be $37.7 billion or 3.1% of Gross Domestic Product (GDP). The direct financial cost of $7.7 billion, or 3.1% billion related to direct healthcare costs of obesity-related medical conditions. A further $6.4 billion or 0.5% of GDP in cost related to productivity losses. As we can see this is not a minor problem – it is an epidemic, and as an industry we have a great opportunity to assist individuals to gain valuable support and overcome this problem.

THE ROLE OF CELLULITE IN OBESITY It is a known fact that cellulite can give an unsightly appearance and

this can discourage an individual from believing they can ever conquer their weight issue. On the other hand, while someone can successfully lose weight, areas where cellulite exist may remain relatively unchanged, often exaggerating its appearance even more. This is where localised topical treatments can be of great benefit and where our industry can also offer valuable solutions.

CELLULITE – WHAT IS IT EXACTLY? Cellulite is not a medical term and many doctors and dermatologists deny its existence as the changes occurring in the fatty tissues are not pathogenic, rather the result of genetics, natural ageing and lifestyle factors. However, cellulite may also be considered to be at the very mild end of a spectrum of lipodystrophia (abnormal lipid deposition) that includes lipoedema, lipo-lymphoedema, lipodermatosclerosis and other panniculopathies (pathological changes in adipose tissue). Fat lobules in the hypodermis are highly vascular and surrounded by dense connective tissue, which anchors the lobules between the deep fascia and the dermis and gives the tissue a roughly cuboidal architecture. The fat lobules themselves are highly vascular and contain a dense capillary bed. The lymph vessels, however, are not found within the fat lobules, but travel through the tough collagen septa surrounding the lobule (along with the cutaneous artery, vein and nerve). In the progression of cellulite a slowing of blood and lymph flow create a high-protein oedema around the adipocytes in the lobule, while the collagen septa become fibrotic and compact, producing the characteristic bumpy appearance on the skin surface. Cellulite, lipoedema and lymphoedema all have in common the slowing of the microcirculation and development of a high protein oedema with

Cellulite is a very common condition that plagues women in particular and a very difficult one to manage or eliminate. Even though weight loss may have been achieved, persistent cellulite can be a concern that your clients may be seeking help for. Regardless of what treatment options you may be providing, a comprehensive understanding of cellulite and other lipodystrophies should enable you to better understand the causes of these conditions and perhaps a more successful way of addressing them.

CAUSES OF CELLULITE Having cellulite doesn't mean you are overweight. Even thin people can have it. If you are overweight, however, losing weight may reduce cellulite. In some instances weight loss is evenly distributed, however, in areas where cellulite is present weight loss and inch loss can be extremely difficult due to changes in the metabolic rate in these areas, so topical treatments are often the only solution. Cellulite is more common among women than men. If other women in your family have cellulite, there's a good chance you will too. The causes of cellulite include changes in metabolism, physiology, dieting too hard or too much, sex-specific dimorphic skin architecture, alteration of connective tissue structure, hormonal factors, genetic factors, the microcirculatory system, the extracellular matrix and subtle inflammatory alterations. Other factors that influence how much cellulite you have and how visible it is include:

• • • • • • • •

Poor diet Fad dieting Slow metabolism Lack of physical activity Hormone changes Dehydration Total body fat Thickness and colour of your skin

Cellulite tends to be less noticeable on darker skin. If you have light skin and plan to be out in a bathing suit or short shorts, applying a self-tanner may make the bumps and dimples on your thighs less noticeable. However, the four causes listed below are supported by research and are considered the most credible reasons why cellulite manifests: 100

Hormonal factors Hormones play a dominant role in the formation of cellulite. Oestrogen may be the important hormone to initiate and aggravate cellulite. However, there has been no reliable clinical evidence to support this claim fully. Other hormones, including insulin, the catecholamines adrenaline and noradrenaline, thyroid hormones, and prolactin, are all believed to participate in the development of cellulite.

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Genetic factors There is a genetic element in individual susceptibility to cellulite. Researchers led by Enzo Emanuele have traced the genetic component of cellulite to particular polymorphisms in the angiotensin converting enzyme (ACE) and hypoxia-inducible factor 1A (HIF1a) genes.

Predisposing factors Several factors have been shown to affect the development of cellulite. Sex, race, biotype, distribution of subcutaneous fat and predisposition to lymphatic and circulatory insufficiency have all been shown to contribute to cellulite.

Lifestyle A high-stress lifestyle will cause an increase in the level of catecholamines, which have also been associated with the development of cellulite.

thermogenic as well as lypolytic properties and assist in emulsifying the size of fatty deposits for effective elimination. Furthermore, Blue Lotus is a known vasoprotector and venous tonic, as well as a powerful detoxifying agent, and also possess strong antiinflammatory properties. When choosing cellulite creams insist that you identify their research to support their effectiveness. You must also remember that active ingredients alone cannot guarantee results – they must be included in the right carrier vehicle or delivered through compression technologies and further heat-activation technologies that will enhance their delivery to the effected area.

Liposuction: This is a surgical procedure to remove fat deposits from the body. Liposuction, though, removes deep fat, not cellulite, which is just beneath the skin. The American Academy of Dermatology warns that liposuction may actually worsen the appearance of cellulite by creating more depressions in the skin.

TYPES OF CELLULITE Not all cellulite is the same. Predominantly there are two types: Soft Cellulite: This type of cellulite is more noticeable because it doesn’t attach itself to the muscle. It’s softer, saggy, moves around more and usually affects larger areas of the body. Unlike hard cellulite, it sits closer to the surface, making it easier to treat. Hard Cellulite: Hard cellulite is harder to get rid of because it’s concentrated and lives close to or on the muscle. Hard cellulite tends to occur in more athletic body types and is harder to see with the naked eye. In some cases, hard cellulite can be sensitive to the touch.

CoolSculpting: There are now other technologies that can eliminate fat cells from the body through various specialised lasers such as CoolSculpting® which is a fat-freezing procedure, a nonsurgical fat-reduction treatment that uses controlled cooling to eliminate stubborn fat that resists all efforts through diet and exercise. The results of the fat-freezing procedure are proven, noticeable, and lasting, so you'll look great from every angle.

CELLULITE TREATMENTS Topical Creams: Do Topical Creams With aminophylline Help Reduce Cellulite? Ac c o r di n g t o L e n Kr a vi tz , P h. D. Aminophylline, caffeine and theophyilline are members of a group of biochemicals known as methyxanthines present in many cellulite creams. These biological agents can enhance the body’s ability to break down stored fat, a process called lypolysis. However, when applied topically to the skin, an initial challenge of any cream is that it must be able to penetrate the skin and dermis and reach the target fat tissue before being absorbed by the tissue. Yet, to be effective, these thigh creams would have to have a sufficient concentration (in the subcutaneous fat layer) for an ample length of time, which partially explains their lack of consequential cellulite removal. However, studies have shown a small reduction in thigh girth when using these creams, yet not a substantial change in cellulite. Additionally, in the aesthetics industry you will find that the multidisciplinary approach using various technologies in conjunction with certain proven botanicals and marine extracts can achieve impressive results. Examples of key ingredients include red algae and marine plankton, both proven results due to their rich amino acid content to strengthen collagen, as well as vitamins and an amazing array of minerals such as chorine, potassium, calcium, sodium, magnesium and phosphorus, all of which are excellent in eliminating fluid retention in the body. These micro-nutrients when delivered into the skin through effective transdermal delivery systems are known to assist in improving micro-circulation and eliminating toxins. Other herbs such as Pink Pepper offer

Ultrasonic Cavitation: Other technologies, include ultrasonic cavitation. This treatment uses cavitation technology which allows for non-surgical attack of inflexible fat deposits that no matter how much you diet and exercise never seems to disappear. Unlike a traditional tummy tuck or liposuction, in ultrasonic cavitation there are no knives, no anesthesia and no surgery. Ultrasonic cavitation is similar to mesotherapy or lipodissolve in that it is a treatment for cellulite called localised adiposity.

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Mesotherapy: Mesotherapy was originally developed in Europe to relieve pain of inflammatory skin conditions. It involves injecting substances such as vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and enzymes into the tissue just beneath the skin. Mesotherapy may break down fat and bring a slight improvement in the appearance of cellulite. But it also carries risks, which may include swelling, infection and irregular contours.

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Manual Lymphatic Drainage: Massage may have a temporary effect, however, the most credible and beneficial treatment for cellulite is Manual Lymphatic Drainage using the Dr Vodder method, which is the most precise and scientific. This treatment works directly on the lymphatic system to stimulate and redirect wastes toward the lymph nodes and lymphatic vessels for elimination. As stagnant lymphatic flow is characteristic of cellulite, expertly performed manual lymphatic drainage is an effective tool to eliminate wastes from the body.

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There are also compressor bandages that can be used strategically to push lymph and support the body to successfully eliminate toxins. Other technologies such as Sorisa's Pressor offer effective treatments that can mechanically achieve highly successful lymphatic stimulation, and this device is used not just for weight loss, but also for medical conditions such as lymphoderma.

APAN is committed to helping members on many levels – Business and marketing strategies, technical and legal advice, wages and FairWork regulations and your compliance. Additionally, they also help you SAVE MONEY ON YOUR PURCHASES.

For each member APAN purchases membership to Australia's leading Shopping Club – MEMBER PLUS. Member Plus is a member benefits service available to participating associations and not-for-profits. They are committed to helping members save time and money, and can source amazing prices and deals on a wide range of products and services.

Major categories include: * Electrical and whitegoods * Motor vehicles * Travel and accommodation * Leisure and entertainment * Computers and cameras * Home and office needs * Personal, health and beauty * Food and drinks.

APAN members can potentially save thousands of dollars on their everyday purchases each year when using their MEMBER PLUS membership. On average members have saved 9-11% off their best price on electrical items alone, and MEMBER PLUS can generally beat Internet prices. Every dollar counts and the savings you make on your everyday purchases from Member Plus can quickly add up. Reduce your grocery bill by purchasing discounted Coles and Woolworths gift cards! Save on flowers, jewellery, pet products, bed linen, computers, theme parks and lots more! Each month APAN emails you up-to-the-minute specials. Please check these as well as your MEMBER PLUS CATALOGUE, and don't forget to start saving each month. “I saved $1600 off my best price for my overseas airfares to the US through my Member Plus membership. I was thrilled and this was a wonderful saving which I used as my fun money when I arrived. What a great gift from my APAN Membership.” Mark Grey. “With my Member Plus membership I purchase at an additional 5% discount Woolworth vouchers which I use for my weekly purchases on top of any specials on offer. My card helps me save over $450 off my weekly shopping bill over a 12 month period, while still gaining other savings and my loyalty points. Every little bit helps. Thank you APAN for this.” Janet Broughton.

ARE YOU USING YOUR MEMBERSHIP TO SAVE? Just one of the many benefits of joining APAN. Phone 07 5593 0360 for further details

What Lies Ahead in the Treatment of Cellulite? Although reviews of current therapies are mixed, doctors are always looking at new treatments for cellulite. One procedure involves using red and infrared light emitting diodes (LEDs) to emit certain wavelengths known to disrupt fat tissue, causing it to shrink. This procedure is combined with rollers and suctions to soften the fibrous bands of connective tissue that cause the dimpled appearance.

WHY SHOULD YOU BE INTRODUCING BODY TREATMENTS? I believe that body treatments for either weight loss, body shaping or cellulite are underutilised in our industry. Yet we have some amazing technologies and products that when delivered with the right protocols can achieve excellent results and open the door to a whole new level of service. While there is a growing demand for skin and anti-ageing treatments, equally necessary and in demand are body treatments. However, we are not capturing this market share because we are not investing in these services. With summer upon us I hope this will change. Why not discuss these possibilities with a nutritionist or a regenerative doctor and put together packages that include nutritional support, as well as a comprehensive cellulite, body shaping and weight-loss program. Currently, we have members who have achieved amazing results in this area and they would like APAN to pursue a provider number for these services, as most of their clients are coming through doctor referrals. However, this aspect of the industry is in its infancy and has some way to go before we can approve this with the Government. There is also another consideration. Currently, most of the industry who wish to specialise in skin and age management are focusing on IPL and Laser for skin rejuvenation, vascular, pigmentation and some with tattoo removal. There will come a time when the market will be saturated with these services. Those who are proactive and see the great opportunities in slimming and cellulite treatments will introduce these modalities and take advantage of these opportunities. We now have credible technologies and products to achieve notable and guaranteed success in this area. I hope this gives you some food for thought. With summer upon us there is no better time than the present to explore these options. Ref: http://www.ourbetterbodies.com/therapies/ultrasound-cavitationhouston-tx/#sthash.hGyifL89.dpuf http://www.drlenkravitz.com/Articles/cellulite.html

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BODYSCULPT LIGHT LEGS The new SKEYNDOR customised strategy targeting the many issues of CELLULITE Over 90% of women (and some men) have it. It affects the reed thin and the not so slim and it is caused by a number of factors. We’re talking Cellulite. SKEYNDOR launches its cutting edge strategy to address the vexing and multi-dimensional issues of Cellulite offering a firsttime multi-dimensional and individualised approach for each and every client. Enter BODYSCULPT LIGHT LEGS, the new program targeting Slimming, Draining, Contouring, Water Retention and the many outward imperfections of cellulite. The success of this new program rests not only on the expertise of the latest and specific ingredients used, but also how they are used,

their micronised encapsulation and, their advanced delivery system, for which SKEYNDOR is known world wide. This innovative new strategy successfully treats the three (3) main types of Cellulite: ! Soft Cellulite, the rippled appearance that appears on thighs, abdomen, buttocks and arms. ! Oedematose Cellulite that can cause legs to lose their shape, be painful and result in the tired-leg effect. ! Compact Cellulite with its granulated texture and orange peel appearance is generally found in the upper hip area and can be painful if pressed. Unfortunately this type of cellulite cannot be improved by walking or exercise and due to its form and pressure stretch marks can result. Once the aesthetician has determined the client’s cellulite type, the advanced BODYSCULPT LIGHT LEGS program is individually customised, thereby offering a longer-term, more effective and healthier treatment solution. Exacting ingredients get to the core of Cellulite concerns inhibiting fatty-cell formation and accumulation, poor circulation and fluid retention. At the same time the program targets the outward signs of Cellulite such as skin firmness, the orangepeel effect and body contour.

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SKEYNDOR’s active ingredients and treatment protocol stimulates

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and improves circulation so stagnating fluids and waste build-up are effectively moved and eliminated. In addition, it breaks down existing fat deposits to regulate and prevent the formation of fat in cells. You can expect:

! ! ! !

A 3.1cm reduction in one session A 90% reduction in the silhouette An 85% improvement in flaccidity An 85% reduction in tired-legs sensation

These actives include: Pink Pepper reduces and emulsifies the size of fatty deposits and eliminates them. It activates blood circulation and helps drain toxins while reducing volume in the area where fat is stored (such as tummy and thighs). Blue Lotus is a vasoprotector and venous tonic that reduces the permeability of the blood capillaries and increases their resistance. A powerful detoxifying agent, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant. Red Algae has a draining effect while also activating microcirculation and aiding in draining fluids and toxins. Rich in proteins, vitamins and minerals (chorine, potassium, calcium, sodium, magnesium, phosphorus), it tones, repairs and vastly improves skin oxygenation and nutrition. Plankton Extract activates collagen and elastin synthesis, significantly firming. It aids in fat burning and acts to eliminate fatty deposits while reducing the sensation of heavy legs. Remodelling Semi-Compressive Bandages assist with the effective drainage of fluids while also acting as a slow release for active ingredients.

The SKEYNDOR BODYSCULPT results can be further enhanced by incorporating these two highly specialised devices: The BODYTER Premium with its triple-action techniques of thermotherapy with Far-infra-red (that heats deeper into the cells), Electro-stimulation and Electroporation. It effectively manages concerns including cellulite, firming, fat deposits, detoxification, body sculpting, lifting, muscle building and rehabilitation. It specialised outputs suit a number of areas on the body such as buttocks, thighs, tummy and arms. The PRESOR-03 therapy that works by computerised air pressure that moves across the lower body at varying dosage rates. It efficiently boosts lymphatic drainage, improves blood circulation and strengthens the condition of blood vessels, aids in the removal of toxins, enhances the bodyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s immune system, clears tissues of debris, lifts skin texture and tone and, by removing toxins, the Presor-03 unit significantly decreases the appearance of cellulite. The SKEYNDOR BODYSCULPT program of topical products offers comprehensive at-home maintenance so clients can sustain the momentum of their treatments between professional sessions. The products focus on the specifics of cellulite concerns. The products include actions to address Fluid Retention, Intensive Attack Phase and Rebel Cellulite to bring about a successful and customised end goal. These products include: Cooling + Draining Gel (for thighs + legs). An ultra cooling formula to reduce and tone the body, while relieving heaviness in legs and ankles. It is power-packed with Hardangerjoken Glacier Water (from Norway), a vasoconstrictor. This ingredient also helps to improve the appearance of varicose and spider veins and decrease inflammation. Other actives include Blue Lotus and Red Algae. Cooling and Draining Gel is available in 250ml.

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They work to flatten the abdomen, reduce waist circumference, provide a noticeable push-up effect by raising buttocks while slimming down thighs and relaxing muscles and joints. Body Contouring Shorts to activate and reduce with a high tech addition – active micro-encapsulated anti-cellulite ingredients (Caffeine and Caritine for example) are contained within the fabric. These ingredients are gradually released to the skin to proficiently reduce and remodel the figure.

Rebel Cellulite: Stubborn Areas Cellulite Cream is ready made for persistent, stubborn cellulite, significantly improving the appearance of the orange-peel effect. It also stimulates the elimination of subcutaneous fat. Its active secret weapons are Raspberry Ketones to help burn fat, Glaucine and other cellulite fighters. Packaged in 200ml tube. For more information on the pioneering BODYSCULPT LIGHT LEGS program, Bodyter Premium and Presor-03 devices please email info@vogueimage.com.au or call 1 800 554 545/(03) 9821 0033.

SKEYNDOR’S POWER HYALURONIC EYES + LASHES The Clock-stopper that's making an impact The ground-breaking SKEYNDOR Power Hyaluronic Eyes + Lashes is a superior stand-out and stand-alone treatment for immediate and outstanding results. And, it is also designed as the perfect treatment up-grade option to suit every client and increase results and profits.

Fluid Retention: Draining + Anti-Cellulite Gel is designed to focus on Cellulite due to fluid retention. Reducing volume and swelling, it contours the silhouette. Its cooling formula with no added Caffeine makes it suitable for those sensitive to Caffeine, for use during pregnancy and also when nursing. It also features Yerba Mate to help burn fat and other recognised anti-cellulite ingredients. Packaged in 200ml.

Intensive Attack Phase: Introducing two unique garments designed to accelerate results. Intensive Sculpting Silhouette has been developed to tackle the orange-peel effect and stimulate subcutaneous fat. This 15-day formula contains key active, Glaucine which is able to penetrate deeply for a significant reduction in the appearance of cellulite for a more evenly toned and smoother skin. Available in 15 x 5ml ampoules. Supporting blood and lymphatic circulation, the Shaping/Remodelling Shorts feature NILIT*INNERGY technology where the unique fabric of the shorts transforms thermal body energy into Far Infrared Rays (FIR). This type of energy (heating) has the power to penetrate tissue in more depth for improved and longer-lasting results.

The Power Hyaluronic Eyes + Lashes works equally and effortlessly in delivering exceptional results in improving the eye contour and the lashes. In addition, this high-performing antiageing eye treatment is suitable and effective for both the younger and more mature client. “The eyes age faster than any other area on the face and the skin around this area is thin and fragile,” says Luca Mora, CEO of Skeyndor in Australia. “As there is less collagen and elastin in this area, over time continual damage from the sun, pollutants, our expressions and the natural ageing process depletes the area further of collagen and elastin. The result is lines and wrinkles, sagging, dryness and dark circles.” “The other concern – puffiness, although temporary, is generally triggered by lifestyle and other behaviours, such as insufficient sleep, allergies, alcohol and a diet high in sugary and salty foods,” she adds. Lashes naturally thin with the ageing process becoming sparse and losing their oomph. In addition, everyday wear and tear on the lashes, using too harsh a cleansing routine or not removing eye makeup can cause lashes to become dry and in some instances result in lash fall. Enter the Power Hyaluronic Eyes + Lashes, a first in global beauty and one of SKEYNDOR’s most progressive to date.

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Slowing the breakdown of collagen and stabilising the skin’s internal hydrodynamics, it locks in moisture and reinforces water reserves for immediate and effective hydration and a 100% improvement in wrinkling, lines and facial contour caused by dehydration. This on the edge technology prevents water loss, generously re-hydrates, strengthens the skin’s barrier and preserves surface hydration. The result is a visible renewal and significant improvement in skin vitality. SKEYNDOR uses Hyaluronic Acid and an Aquaporin activator to open up the water channels delivering intense and lasting hydration. Aquaporins are membrane proteins that transport water and other actives to the very inside of the cells. Their quantity and quality allows water to be distributed and spread to all layers of the skin. The Power Hyaluronic Facial combines the advanced signature SKEYNDOR products with ultra-sensory textures and a relaxing massage technique using Selenite stones. Having a perfect affinity with water, Selenite it is one of the first minerals formed by the evaporation of sea water.

It works two-fold to address the eye contour and the lashes and can drop years in under 45 minutes. Mimicking an eye lift (without surgery or down time), the treatment significantly strengthens and enhances the lashes so they appear more dense and youthful, while at the same time lifting eyelids and intensely firming the eye contour. At the same time it expertly addresses puffiness, dark circles and depth of wrinkles to leave the eyes refreshed and renewed, way beyond expectations. In its matchless approach to rejuvenating the eye area, this SKEYNDOR exclusive boosts the length, density, strength and condition of the lashes, returning a visibly more youthful look. The treatment, with technology fresh from SKEYNDOR R + D, uses potent and pioneering formulas to transform the area in ways never before available to the aesthetician.

Actives can alternatively be deeply infused for spectacular results using the SKEYNDOR Meso-Science technology electroporation phase. The Meso-Science technique stimulates the skin’s vital functions, activating collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid for far-reaching results in skin rejuvenation. At the forefront of preventative care, Meso-Science is a breakthrough approach that employs a state of the art virtual needle that enlists Nobel Prize winning technology called electroporation, a four-phase electro-therapy system of an activating current, hydroelectrophoresis, electroporation and cryotherapy. This highly specialised system uses several smooth, flat handpieces to infuse microscopic quantities of potent and concentrated actives to significantly improve treatment results.

For more on these innovative and multi-functional SKEYNDOR treatment programs please call Vogue Image Group on 1 800 554 545/(03) 9821 0033 info@vogueimage.com.au.

The Power Hyaluronic Eyes + Lashes professional treatment products combine a powerhouse of actives that regenerate, improve weakened collagen fibres and hydrate while, at the same time, acting on firmness, lifting, dark circles and puffiness of the eye contour. When used as an add-on, this service is perfect to multiply the benefits and extend them to the lashes and eye contour. As an add-on service to your existing menu it:

! ! ! !

Enhances the client experience Increases your overall service revenue Improves your retail sales bottom line and, Gives your business the competitive edge

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For a dynamic salon session, team the Power Hyaluronic Eyes + Lashes with the cutting-edge Power Hyaluronic facial program. Working with the skin’s hydrodynamics, this innovative facial uses a combination of very low and very high molecular weight hyaluronic acid to effectively and successfully drive ingredients into the cells.

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Launch of The Advanced Skills Academy – TASA Australian Skin Clinics is proud to introduce the latest addition to its brand portfolio, The Advanced Skills Academy. Founded on the Gold Coast, and now offering courses nationwide, The Advanced Skills Academy offers concentrated training with highly experienced trainers and educators in an exciting, dynamic and innovative environment. With extensive facility space, state of the art equipment and professional trainers with real world experience, The Advanced Skills Academy offers a platform for personal development, where you can learn from professionals who specialise in the field of medi-aesthetics, leadership and business management.

Spotlight on Laser Training at The Advanced Skills Academy For those students who currently hold a Use Licence for Laser, The Advanced Skills Academy can provide the practical hours required by Radiation Health Queensland to ensure you are eligible to apply for your Full Use Laser Licence. As a student of The Advanced Skills Academy you will have the opportunity to participate in comprehensive laser training on Class 4 lasers in the below specialty areas:

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Laser Safety Laser Hair Removal Laser Skin Rejuvenation Laser Superficial Vascular Lesions

Australia’s laser industry governance varies across the country, with Queensland remaining one of the most regulated states. With this in mind The Advanced Skills Academy courses and training programs have been designed to adhere to some of the highest regulatory requirements and provide students with access to educated trainers who have a long standing relationship with Radiation Health Queensland and over 100 years’ combined experience and knowledge.

When students enrol at the academy they will experience a learning environment that provides them with:

• • • •

Advanced education and professional development Real world experience on a range of skin types Training in a clinical environment with real customers Career pathways and employment opportunities with sister company Australian Skin Clinics, one of the leading mediaesthetic providers in Australia.

The Advanced Skills Academy trainers and educators are highly

skilled, professional and above all compliant with government regulations. Students are mentored by trainers and educators who promote the highest standards to ensure students are highly sought after post-training. Successful candidates who graduate and satisfy quality standards for employment are provided an opportunity to gain employment within the Australian Skin Clinics brand. As part of this initiative, students who successfully gain employment at an Australian Skin Clinics location as a result of their course completion at The Advanced Skills Academy will receive a substantial rebate on the total cost of their training. If you are ready to take the next step in your career, or simply looking to improve your skill set to add to your skills and experience, please contact our friendly team at The Advanced Skills Academy who can provide you with more information and assist you

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with the application process.

Call 1800 900 800 or visit www.theasa.com.au

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Are you in need of a challenge? Kids left home? Returning to work after a career break can be confronting. We love mums! We have casual, part-time and full-time positions available now. Australian Skin Clinics is a leading cosmetic medical, laser & rejuvenation franchise specialising in dermal, laser and injectable treatments, and we are looking for people like you. If you already have a Diploma of Beauty Therapy, or a Certificate IV in Anatomy and Physiology and have a passion for people, then it is time to join a company where you can love your work. Successful candidates will be trained as a Dermal and/or Laser Technician at our advanced training academy. A career break should not prevent you from getting back to work.

REVIVE & REJUVENATE YOUR CAREER 1300 303 014 www.ozskin.com

The Ins and Outs of Breast Augmentation Information presented by Dr John Quinn Article submitted by Trish Hammond Plastic Surgery Hub There are so many considerations for someone looking at undergoing a breast augmentation, and it can be difficult to wade through all of the information and different options available on the market today. Your client trusts you, so you want to be able to provide the best and ultimately safest options to your clients who are asking your opinion. We have listed some of the decisions and questions a patient looks at researching before deciding on when, where and who will perform their breast augmentation procedure. It can also relate to other plastic and cosmetic procedures too.

PRACTITIONER/SURGEON

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What experience and qualifications does that surgeon or practitioner have in performing breast augmentations?

• •

What are their qualifications? Have they been trained in surgery (in Australia that would mean they are a Fellow of the Royal Australasian College of Surgeons and display the letters FRACS after their name. They may have qualified in another country and be a fellow of another accredited college). Do this research carefully.

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What is that surgeon or clinic’s post-procedural care cover like?

• •

Does the surgeon operate from an accredited hospital? What is the nature or bedside manner of the surgeon? Most patients respond better to more personable or approachable surgeons where they feel they can ask questions or voice their concerns.

THE ACTUAL PROCEDURE AND RECOVERY The procedure itself can be a daunting thought for anyone looking to undergo a breast augmentation. You will find some patients often just ‘want it’ and don’t necessarily think about the seriousness, the aftercare – they’re just interested in the end results. These patients can often be overwhelmed after the actual operation and the lead up to and recovery afterwards. Some want to know all the ins and outs – and knowing which hospital they will be in, how long they will be there, when their surgeon will visit, which other staff will be involved in the operation and what the post-op recovery will be like might just ease their anxiety. Knowing time frames on recovery will assist in preparation for the patient. Knowing what tasks and chores they can and can’t (or shouldn’t) do, for what time frames, will assist in their post-surgery help and assistance from family or friends.

COST Price is a massive consideration for many looking at having a breast augmentation. Unfortunately, this is often the deciding factor for many patients, and is the main reason why patients might travel abroad or decide on a less-qualified or experienced doctor or practitioner to perform their procedure. Some of the things patients might consider when looking at the cost of a breast augmentation are:

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How much is a consultation and how many will they need to have before the actual surgery? And if so, do you get any of the consultation fee back from Medicare?

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Is the price quoted by the surgeon or clinic all inclusive, or will the anesthetist, hospital stay and subsequent followup care all be additionally charged?

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Will their procedure be covered or is there any Medicare rebate they might be entitled to? (this would usually only be in the case of a lift or reduction due to medical reasons). If so, will the clinic or surgeon assist them to recover those costs?

WHICH IMPLANTS? First, there is the question of silicone versus saline versus ‘organic’ implants, or fat transfer? The patient will want to know which ones are preferred or performed by the surgeon they are consulting with, and why? Then there is the question of whether the implant will be placed between the breast tissue and the chest muscle or underneath the chest muscle (commonly referred to as under the muscle or over the muscle, or “unders” or “overs”). Explaining to the patient which option suits them will help them to feel better informed and more at ease knowing they understand their choices. The types of implants are anatomical (tear drop), and round. There are smooth, textured and furry Brazilians. Each surgeon will have a different opinion based on the individual’s body structure when they attend their consult.

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CONSCIOUS SEDATION/TWILIGHT OR GENERAL ANESTHETIC?

Whether conscious sedation or general anesthetic is best is a really hot topic right now (for more on the differences of both see our a r t i c l e o n t h e f o l l o w i n g w e b s i t e : http://www.plasticsurgeryhub.com.au/twilight-conscioussedation-versus-general-anaesthetic/). Explaining to the patient

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what the surgeon’s recommendation is and why will help to ease any anxiety felt by the patient. Patients generally like to understand why something is the best choice for them as an individual, so knowing exactly what will be involved in the procedure is absolutely essential. Be aware many patients think they are having general anaesthetic when it’s really twilight sedation, so they need to be really sure about this. Probably the most important question: “Is the surgery being performed in an accredited hospital”? This will ensure their safety if something goes wrong.

RISKS AND COMPLICATIONS Obviously, a more experienced and skilled surgeon will minimise risks and complications, but it is important for patients to understand exactly what may happen, no matter how small a chance. This will assist them to be better prepared should something happen that is not meant to. Advising a patient of the risks associated with having a general anesthetic is important, but advising them of the particular possible risks and complications with a breast augmentation is essential too. The most common local complications and adverse outcomes are capsular contracture, reoperation, implant removal, and rupture or deflation of the implant. Other complications include wrinkling, asymmetry, scarring, pain, and infection at the incision site. Knowing these will better prepare the patient should they occur and enable them to identify if they need to alert their surgeon.

GENERAL INFORMATION There are many other considerations for patients before getting a breast augmentation with implants. Some patients will be more informed than others, however it is definitely a good thing if a clinic or surgeon helps a patient to understand these considerations. Some of them may include:

•

Breast implants do not last a lifetime. There will come a time where they will likely have to be removed (although some may disagree with this too!).

•

Patients will need to monitor their breasts for the rest of their life. If they identify any abnormal changes in their breasts, they need to be aware they should alert their surgeon or see another doctor as soon as possible.

Assisting patients to become better informed and helping them to become more aware of their choices will definitely enable them to make smarter choices when it comes to when, where and who will perform their breast augmentation. At the Plastic Surgery Hub, we’re all about patient safety and consumer awareness, so we encourage people to do their research, and ensure that they are visiting a plastic or cosmetic surgeon who is trained in surgery. They may also wish to get involved in a closed Facebook group to help them on their journey. We are here to help, so if you have a client who needs to be guided in the right direction, or is keen to join a closed Facebook group, just email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au

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cosmeticmedicine

The Power of the Multidisciplinary Approach An interview with Mr Ian Holten

At this year's A5M Conference one of the speakers was well-known and respected plastic surgeon Mr Ian Holten, who has a very successful practice in Geelong and Ballarat in Victoria. His clinic â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Australian Skin, Face, Body â&#x20AC;&#x201C; has a strong focus on enhancing the health of your skin and not just plastic surgery. This is a new-generation clinic that has embraced the multidisciplinary approach working with a team of Plastic Surgeons, General Practitioners, Nurses and Dermal Clinicians and Therapists all specialising in medical conditions of the skin. The practice offers the latest Cosmetic and Reconstructive Plastic Surgery, Hand Surgery, Skin Cancer Prevention and Treatment, Mole Screening and a highly effective drug-free treatment for medical skin conditions such as acne and rosacea. Having heard of his reputation I attended one of Mr Holten's lectures at A5M and was most impressed with his innovative approach to patient care that embodies the modern integrative model that is now needed due to consumer demand. I was fortunate to be able to interview him to allow him to share some of his observations that define the modern medical/aesthetic practice.

APJ Q1: Mr. Holten as a plastic surgeon why did you decide to implement aesthetics in your clinic? While I can correct features and troublesome areas surgically, I often observe that quite a bit of work is needed to correct the skin as it can be in a terrible state of neglect. Furthermore, today many patients want to improve their overall appearance with minimal invasive procedures, so we need to start first by restoring the skin to its optimum balance. With today's tools of peels and active skincare as well as advances in technology we can achieve a great deal of improvement that may even eliminate the need for surgery or minimise it. For example if I identify a lot of laxity in the neck we can introduce skin-tightening procedures and incorporate Radio Frequency and then re-examine if surgery is still needed. Currently as part of our surgical procedures we always include pre and postsurgery aesthetic skin procedures as part of the overall treatment plan.

APJ Q2: Out of the new technologies now available, which ones impress you the most? I have to say I am very impressed with what can be achieved with

LED light for skin rejuvenation as well as other skin conditions. The body is made up of cells that are generally capable of healing and reproducing on their own using naturally occurring cellular energy known as adenosine triphospate (ATP). When the skin is damaged, ATP stimulates cell regeneration to heal and restore the injured area. LED is a wonderful tool to enhance ATP activation and this is beneficial for numerous skin conditions and as an effective adjunct treatment in skin rejuvenation, acne as well as post-operatively. Radio Frequency is also an amazing technology that can achieve excellent skin tightening for both face and body. Combined with effective skincare you can achieve great results. There are also several other technologies other than lasers such as ultrasound, electroporation and iontophoresis that assist in improving product penetration.

APJ Q3: What about skincare, which ingredients have you seen give the best results? I have to say that modern skincare formulations can now achieve amazing results. There is quite a bit of evidence that support their ability to improve the skin. For example, Vitamin A is well supported in the literature for its benefits in collagen synthesis and also in reducing skin redness. Niacinamide (B3) is another excellent ingredient that can support skin health and improve the skin. Topically applied niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis. It also has a growing reputation for being able to treat an uneven skin tone and to mitigate acne and the red marks it leaves behind such as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Niacinamide is also an excellent ingredient for those struggling with wrinkles and breakouts. Niacinamide can be taken internally as well as applied topically with great benefits in protecting the skin against skin cancer. Another great ingredient that we have achieved wonderful results with is ascorbic acid or Vitamin C. As this is an unstable molecule we have effectively used the powder version mixed within a mask at the time of the treatment with excellent results for skin lightening and combined it with AHA products for home use. As the skin ages it becomes more alkaline and we have found that if we can support it with the correct building blocks with evidence-based ingredients we can achieve great skin improvement.

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APJ Q4: In your opinion, are we getting on top of the skin cancer epidemic? There was a recent paper released by Cancer Council Queensland that confirmed that those who were using a good broad-spectrum sunscreen had a 50% reduction in skin cancer, including melanoma. However, there are concerns that many sunscreens are not delivering sufficient protection. A recent study conducted in New Zealand found that 46 out of 50 sunscreens failed when clinically tested.

APJ Q5: Other than sunscreen, what other measures can assist individuals against skin cancer? I think we need to realise that not all sun is bad for you. We need some sun to synthesis Vitamin D in the body, which we need for immunoprotection. Vitamin D is vital to strong bones and teeth and a healthy immune system. Known as the “sunshine vitamin” because it’s produced in the skin in response to sunlight, Vitamin D is a fat-soluble vitamin in a family of compounds that includes vitamins D1, D2 and D3. It can affect as many as 2,000 genes in the body. Vitamin D has several important functions. Perhaps the most vital are regulating the absorption of calcium and phosphorous, and facilitating normal immunesystem function. Getting a sufficient amount of the vitamin is important for normal growth and development as well as for immunosuppression. For example, while Queensland had the most melanomas, because women are exposed to more sun they have the least incidents of breast cancer in Australia. Immunity is everything and vitamin D plays a key role in supporting our immunity. This is why the newgeneration sun screens also support vitamin D synthesis.

APJ Q6: Mr. Holten, what are your thoughts on fat transplant for facelifting? There is renewed interest in fat transplant for the purpose of facelifting as new studies published are confirming that other than volumising the face, fat transfer offers other benefits. The latest study confirmed that when fat is relocated to other parts of the body such as the skin it actually increases collagen production and improves skin elasticity, so it actually benefits the integrity of the skin, not just increasing volume to sunken areas of the face.

APJ Q7: What is your opinion on professional collaborative relationships? I believe that aestheticians and dermal therapists can now play an invaluable part as team members in a cosmetic surgical practice. Today's patient is looking for the least invasive way that they can look fresher and better. As a plastic surgeon I believe that we can offer patients a much better outcome through an integrative approach utilising technology, skincare as the initial primary approach and achieve as much as we can prior to any surgical considerations. Utilising the collective skills of a qualified team is very much the direction of the future. Mr Ian Holten MBBS MD FRACS FRCS (Plas) Lon Mr Ian Holten is the founder of Australian Skin Face Body Clinics. A Plastic and Cosmetic Surgeon, Mr Holten’s specialist post-graduate studies in plastic surgery were undertaken in the UK and the USA. He is a Fellow of the Royal Australasian College of Surgeons, Royal College of Surgeons and member of the Australian Society of Plastic Surgeons, American Society of Plastic Surgeons and British Association of Plastic Reconstructive, Aesthetic Surgeons. Mr Holten devotes time every year to visit developing countries. Along with his colleagues, he helped establish a plastic surgery program, Interplast, which provides free reconstructive surgery for patients who would otherwise not be able to afford access to such services. In recognition of his humanitarian work with Interplast, Mr Holten was a State finalist in the 2013 Australian of the Year Awards.

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Mr Holten spcialises in skin-cancer detection, diagnosis and treatment, providing extensive training for General Practitioners.

He has a special interest in treating problematic skin conditions such as rosacea, adult and teenage acne, with drug-free alternatives.

governmentfunding

APAN SUCCESSFULLY SECURES GOVERNMENT FUNDING In support of a $750,000 training program for businesses At the end of September this year APAN was notified by the Federal Government that their submission for Government Funding for a $750,000 training program for businesses was approved. This funding will go to two training providers who will deliver the training that several salons and clinics had selected as part of their need to pursue further growth opportunities for their businesses. The two colleges are Sydney Beauty and Dermal Institute in Sydney and Beauty Therapy Training Australia on the Gold Coast. The three training qualifications selected by APAN for this program were: 1. SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction 2. NAT10038 Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies (This qualification includes skin

rejuvenation, vascular, pigmentation and tattoo removal) The SIB50210 Diploma of Salon Management

"We were acting proactively, in view of impending regulatory changes for the practice of IPL and Laser as we identified that the industry was desperate for support. As a result, when we were notified that government grants would be made available this year we decided to promote this to the industry and apply on their behalf" , APAN President and CEO Tina Viney conformed. As an industry consortium APAN gained approval for funding for 75 practitioners and their businesses to gain financial support for government-approved qualifications. For Queensland applicants the qualification will also include the necessary licences plus the hours needed to comply with full licencing requirements. The project was available through the

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Industry Skills Fund, which requested that qualifications and training delivered should prepare practitioners to immediately start practising and earning money. Industry Skills Fund representative Peter Maddon stated that it is pointless gaining a qualification when it leaves you deficient in being able to practise because your licensing hours and certification were not included in your training. Many of the successful beneficiaries will only need to pay just 25% of their training fees, with the Government picking up the remaining 75% of their fee to pay the RTOs without the need to repay this fee at a later date as would be the case with VET FEE Help. That is excellent news for many businesses who were looking at taking advantage of growth opportunities and are currently investing in equipment. This is an amazing coup for the industry and APAN was congratulated by Senator Birmingham's office as well as their local Member of Parliament, Karen Andrews, for this great achievement. "This was not an easy task," Tina explains, "as the Merit Criteria was very stringent, and as we were told, many applications were rejected. A lot of hours, skill and determination went into this project and we are delighted that in the end our submission met with the necessary merit criteria." "APAN worked over several months to prepare for the submission," Tina said. "We were required to be assessed by several panels both in Queensland and in Canberra," Tina said. "While we put in a lot of work to ensure we met the specific requirements of the Merit Criteria for the project, we were then asked to provide independent evidence to substantiate our claims that they were in fact accurate.” APAN was then required to advertise this funding opportunity and to assess the individual business, ensuring that they met their own merit criteria. Those who met with the criteria were allowed to apply for the funding through APAN's application. "While last year there was funding available, it was from a different department – the National Workforce Development Fund. Last year the Government co-contribution was not as good as this year, however this year's merit criteria was much stricter," Tina stated. "What I am thrilled about is that the beneficiaries of this funding will be practitioners and businesses who will be positioned one step ahead of any regulatory requirements. Furthermore, businesses will be able to more confidently establish promotional and market strategies to service old clients and attract new ones”. “We view our mission as guardians of the industry and as such we are vigilant to identify any support program that can save businesses money and support their progress and growth," Tina confirmed. Will there be further funding opportunities? “Possibly,” Tina said. "I am not sure at this stage, however, the best way to ensure you are first to be notified is to become a financial member of APAN. Members are always the first to be informed of these opportunities. After all, one would understand that our members would expect to be given priority with such opportunities."

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If you wish to learn more about the benefits of joining A PA N p h o n e 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com. Please include your full name, phone number and your State.

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scienceskin

Manifestations of a compromised Lymphatic and IMMUNE SYSTEM Part 3 by Gay Wardle In parts 1 and 2 of this series we have discussed the cells of the lymphatic system and the immune system itself in detail. Now we are going to look at some diseases/disorders where MLD (manual lymphatic drainage) can assist and finally contraindications – and yes, there are a few contraindications.

LYMPHEDEMA Have you ever identified a person with evidence of swelling in their feet or legs? This may possibly be due to a condition called lymphedema. Lymphedema occurs where there has been disruption or impaired flow of the lymphatic system. If a lymph node or vessel becomes blocked, or is unable to carry lymph fluid away from the tissues, the result is often localised swelling. This localised swelling is known as lymphedema. The areas that are commonly affected are arms and legs, and more commonly the affect will be to one arm or one leg, though in some situations it can be bilateral. In the early stages where the lymphedema is very mild the person may notice the limbs that are affected start to feel heavy, with sensations of tingling, tightness and warmth with some occasional pain present in the area. Apart from the skin feeling tight it can look red with slight puffiness. Often these symptoms are present before there is any swelling.

As the condition progresses the swelling becomes very evident and the earlier symptoms become more pronounced. Lymphedema can be either primary or secondary, meaning it can occur on its own (primary lymphedema), or it can be caused by another disease or condition (secondary lymphedema). Secondary lymphedema is far more common than primary lymphedema. Primary lymphedema – Lymph vessels are abnormal, causing serious impairment to the lymphatic system. This is a rare condition that is often inherited. There are specific causes of primary lymphedema, these are:

•

Milroy's disease – the first stage of this begins in early infancy where there is abnormal formation of the lymph nodes.

•

Meige's disease (lymphedema praecox) occurs around puberty to the age of 35 approximately, or it can begin during pregnancy.

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Late-onset lymphedema (lymphedema tarda). This occurs rarely and usually begins after age 35.

•

Secondary lymphedema – caused by damage to normally functioning lymph vessels and nodes.

•

Surgery where there is injury or removal of lymph nodes

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and lymph vessels. For example, lymph nodes that are removed because of breast cancer.

â&#x20AC;˘

Radiation treatment for cancer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; radiation can cause scarring and inflammation of lymph nodes or lymph vessels.

In the event of cancer cells blocking lymphatic vessels, this may result in lymphedema. For example, a tumor growing near a lymph node or lymph vessel could enlarge enough to block the flow of the lymph fluid that will cause lymphedema. In the event of infection, if the lymph nodes become infected the bacteria can restrict the flow of lymph fluid. This is a common problem in tropical and subtropical areas. Lymphedema cannot be cured, but compression bandages, manual lymphatic drainage and massage will help control the condition. If the lymphedema is not controlled then there is a risk of developing lymphangiosarcoma, which is a form of cancer. To prevent further infection MLD should be performed weekly on a regularly basis. In the initial stages of treatment every second day or daily would be a huge advantage. When treating and evaluating edema, obviously the history of the person needs to be taken, a thorough inspection of the area that needs to be treated, photographs need to be taken and measurements of the area need to be taken. This will be very helpful in the progression of treatments. Examination of the amount of palpation also needs to be monitored, fibroses and the softness of the tissue. All of these things need to be evaluated with each and every visit to the clinic. Possible complications of Lymphedema could be: ! Lymphocele: Which is a mass containing lymph that has occurred from disease of an injury to lymphatic channels. ! Lymphocyst: These are extension of cutaneous lymph vessels that can grow to very large masses. The cyst is a cavity with endothelial lining. ! Luph fistula: Cysts that can become fistula where the vessel opens to the surface of the body, and cause increased pressure in the lymph vessel.

forced back into tissue that causes edema and contributes to the condition known as phlebedema. The symptoms will be heavy legs that have cramps, a tingling sensation and associated pain. It is important that the person wears compression stockings. Additionally, exercises and manual lymphatic drainage can greatly benefit them.

LIPOEDEMA This is a condition where fat cells have abnormally built up, mainly in the the legs, thighs and buttocks. Both legs are usually affected where they become enlarged from the ankles right up to the hips. The feet are not affected, so the ankles will appear to have a large band hanging over the ankle bone. The condition will worsen over time, making it almost impossible for the person to move around. Apart from the swelling the affected areas will feel very spongy and often cold (because of poor circulation). It is a very painful condition with a lot of bruising and surface veins that are visible. There is often fluid retention creating a second condition, which is lymphedema. Although the condition is not caused by obesity, the accumulation of fat will become worse. Dieting makes very little difference to the condition. It is suggested that hormone changes in the body may be a cause, such as pregnancy or menopause. Arthropathy: There are different diseases that can cause arthropathy, which is inflammation in the joints. Long-term inflammation can and will cause impairment to the lymphatic system. There are different types of arthropathy. These include diabetic arthropathy, which is obviously caused by diabetes, then there is neuropathic arthropathy, which is associated with loss of sensation. And then there is hip, knee and ankle arthropathy, which manifest through stiffness and swelling of the joints. In all of these disorders manual lymphatic drainage will be of great benefit, giving major relief to very uncomfortable and painful conditions. Manual lymphatic drainage (MLD) will also assist in all of the

NOW TO PHLEBEDEMA This condition is often caused by a predisposition to varicose veins or thrombosis.We know that the function of veins is to return blood to the heart in order to avoid too much pressure building up. The veins in the legs in particular have special valves, spaced every 0.5 to 1cm apart, that prevent the blood from flowing backwards. In the case of varicose veins, these valves no longer close properly. The pressure in the veins increases, particularly in the calves, since this section of the legs is farthest from the heart. This deficiency will cause strain to the lymphatic system as it relies heavily on the flow of blood. The increased pressure in the veins will cause a large volume of fluid from the blood vessels being

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following conditions and should be performed regularly to assist in a speedy recovery:

• • • • • • •

Acne, rosacea, scar tissue

without exerting any pressure. A push movement with the flow of the lymphatic fluid is used.

•

Stationary circle – Stationary circles are performed with both hands and in the same direction. The fingers or whole hands are placed on the skin, with the movement being a push movement forward, and the circle is finished in the direction of lymph flow.

•

Scoop technique – This method is used on the extremities with the therapist using either one or two hands alternating forwards with the lymphatic flow. The palm of the therapist’s hand is placed on the area to be treated with a slight push forward method.

Whiplash, burns, pre and post-surgery Mastodynia, lactation disorders Neurological disorders, strokes, multiple sclerosis Stress, burnout syndrome, after any illness Dieting, poor sleep patterns Detox, anti-ageing

CONTRAINDICATIONS MLD should not be performed in the first months of pregnancy or if there are complications during pregnancy. After the first trimester and where there is normal pregnancy, MLD is a great option for relief to legs and breasts discomfort.

There are other methods of performing MLD, although each and every one is done with applying pressure to the area to be treated. There should be no reddening of the skin and the treatment should not be painful for the person being treated.

Bronchial asthma attacks are triggered by the parasympathetic nervous system. Due to its sympathicolytic effect MLD can prompt an attack. Therefore MLD should start off slowly and only during an attack-free interval, with treatments never to exceed 45 minutes.

CONCLUSION

MLD lowers blood pressure, therefore treating someone that already has a symptom of low blood pressure is a contraindication.

TECHNIQUES

•

Pump technique – This method is best used on the extremities, with the movement being performed with either one or both hands alternating or together. The therapist’s hand is placed flat with the thumb in opposition to the fingers. Contact to the treatment area is made

The lymphatic system could be considered the origin of life, as it is the nutrient liquid for the very first collection of cells. It supplies us with the life-giving nutrients necessary for body development (Vodder, E., 1936). MLD is a treatment that is vital to ensuring our immunes system stays healthy. In a world where the pace is fast, stress is normal and we strive to look younger, we tend sometime to take our body for granted. I hope this three-part series on the immune system has been enlightening to you and will encourage you to see the value of including manual lymphatic drainage as part of your everyday treatments.

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Sydney: 1 Day Courses Day 1 15th February Back to Basics Day 2 16th February Advanced Skin Anatomy and Analysis Day 3 17th February Skin Disorders & Treatment Protocols Gold Coast:1 Day Courses Day 1 22nd February Back to Basics Day 2 23rd February Advanced Skin Anatomy & Analysis Day 3 24th February Skin Disorders & Treatment Protocols Perth: 1 Day Courses Day 1 13th March Back to Basics Day 2 14th March Advanced Skin Anatomy & Analysis

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Ph: 0418 708 455

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antiageing

STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY How our features age and ways to support structural integrity By Tina Viney You would have to agree that today we have some amazing options in our tool box to achieve great results with skin rejuvenation and anti-ageing treatment outcomes. However, while there is a great deal that can now be achieved, it is important that we understand that the ageing process of the face is a multi-factorial issue. As we age four specific layers that support how we look will alter as they degenerate and chance. These are the skin, adipose tissue, muscles and, finely, our bone structure. Gaining an understanding on how the face ages is a very interesting study. This information needs to also be communicated to our clients or patients. In this age when litigation is commonplace, practitioners need to protect themselves against their clients' unfulfilled expectations due to a possible misunderstanding of what can realistically be achieved from their treatments. For this reason Informed Consent documents are so very important. These must

clearly state the risks and what treatment outcomes can be expected from the procedure that is being undertaken, the aftercare that the client needs to adhere to and any relevant advice pertaining to reactions, etc. Your clients need to read through this information and you as the practitioner are required to walk them through this document, answer any of their questions and ensure they fully understand what they are signing. STRUCTURAL CHANGES AS WE AGE But let's get back to the ageing face. We must understand that getting rid of facial wrinkles may not be enough to obscure the other signs of ageing. For a truly youthful look, you'd have to reshape the bones in your face. As a practitioner you may have effective strategies in addressing age-related changes to the skin and soft tissues, but to make people look younger, your client needs to gain an understanding of the

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alterations to the underlying facial structures â&#x20AC;&#x201C; face, muscles and, in particular, bone changes that contribute to our aged appearance and limit how much can be achieved in terms of turning back the clock.

http://www.livescience.com/35332-face-bones-aging110104.html

NUTRITIONAL SUPPORT As we grow older our facial bones, including our eye sockets, nose and upper jaw, continue to change. For example, our eye sockets enlarge and the angle of the bones beneath our eyebrows decreases, which could contribute to the formation of frown lines on our foreheads, "crow's feet" at the corners of our eyes and droopy lower eyelids, the researchers say.

When working on improving one's appearance it is also advisable to consider the role of nutrition in maintaining optimal health, as well as mitigating premature ageing due to poor diet. Research now confirm how excessive sugar in the diet can lead to glycation, while poor lifestyle and lack of certain nutrients in the diet can contribute also to muscle and bone deterioration at a faster rate.

An amazing study was conducted by physicians at the University of Rochester Medical Centre, New York that clearly indicates that significant changes in facial bones â&#x20AC;&#x201C; particularly the jawbone, that occur as people age and that contribute to an ageing appearance.

Understanding that diets are often built around food groups rather than specific nutrients, researchers from Switzerland, France and North America decided to examine interactions between four nutrients found in dairy products and their role in preserving bone and skeletal muscle integrity. Their Open Access article with these findings, Dairy in Adulthood: From Foods to Nutrient Interactions on Bone and Skeletal Muscle Health, is now available in the Journal of the American College of Nutrition, the Official Publication of the American College of Nutrition and a publication from Routledge.

If you think of the facial bones as "scaffolding" for facial tissue and skin, the bone loss can contribute to that drooping, deflated look, explained study author Dr. Robert Shaw Jr., chief resident in the division of plastic surgery at the University of Rochester Medical Centre in Rochester, New York. While the most pronounced bone loss happened for men when they were 65 and older, the process starts earlier in women. Women's facial skeletons between 41 and 64 looked very different than their facial bones did between the ages of 20 and 40, according to the study. "The bone loss helps explain why getting a simple facelift, or skin tightening, won't ever make you look like your 20-year-old self," Shaw said. This is a very important issue to stress to your clients and looking at the structural bone changes can clearly demonstrate that. Dr Shaw went on to explain that the original thought was that skin goes through changes, such as a loss of elasticity and fat, so the primary approach to facial rejuvenation was skin-tightening procedures. "But a lot of faces never looked like they did when they were younger. Patients bring in pictures and say they want to go back to that look, but they can never really go back to that look just by tightening their skin alone. If there are changes to those underlying structures it's going to change the appearance of how the skin looks," he said. The study is published in the January issue of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. Please see images that demonstrate these changes.

The researchers discovered that Calcium (Ca), inorganic phosphate (Pi), vitamin D, and protein are nutrients that impact bone and skeletal muscle integrity. Deficiency in the supply of these nutrients increases with ageing. Dairy foods are rich in Ca, Pi and proteins and in many countries are fortified with vitamin D. Dairy foods are important sources of these nutrients and go a long way to meeting the recommendations, which increase with ageing. This review emphasised the interactions between these four nutrients, which, along with physical activity, act through cellular and physiological pathways favouring the maintenance of both bone and skeletal muscle structure and function. The research also found that while bone health is often associated with calcium alone, calcium's interactions with inorganic phosphate, vitamin D and protein are important components of beneficial dairy consumption. Dietary protein, while often associated solely with muscle recovery, also promotes bone formation by stimulating both Ca and Pi intestinal absorption and the production of a bone-growth factor. And while vitamin D deficiency is associated with muscle weakness, vitamin D and protein supplementation are required together to improve strength. Combining the four above-mentioned nutrients with physical activity decreases the likelihood of bone and muscle degeneration in older adults. Dairy products are a convenient way to work them into a diet, as they contain Ca, Pi and protein at levels comparable to recommended intakes, and are fortified with vitamin D, the study confirmed.

FOODS THAT SUPPORT MUSCLE INTEGRITY

As years pass, facial bones lose volume, contributing to the appearance of ageing. Here, CT images show the skull of a woman between the ages of 20 and 40 (left) and the skull of a woman over 65 (right). The bones of the older female show that her eye socket is larger, the angle of her lower jaw bone has dropped and the angle of her brow is reduced. Credit: Howard Langstein/University of Rochester Medical Center

It is understood that wrinkles are formed not just because the skin starts to sag, but because the underlying muscles that support the skin lose their tone and volume. As we age diet becomes even more important to ensure that our skin, muscles and bones are nutritionally supported to prevent premature ageing. Crash diets, and dieting in general, unless balanced correctly, may shift weight, but may also degenerate muscle mass and as a result contribute to a more aged appearance, particularly in women after menopause. Therefore, within your anti-ageing protocols you should also include nutritional advice. Here are 10 top foods to gain muscle mass that experts advise.

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LEAN BEEF This should be a staple of your diet if you want to gain muscle mass. Why? Because it is loaded with all sorts of things conducive to muscle growth. On average, as little as an 85gms serving of lean

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beef is only 154 calories, yet it provides 10 essential nutrients, including iron, zinc and B-vitamins. More importantly, it provides your body with high-quality protein (not all proteins are equal), and a high level of amino acid that works with insulin to promote muscle growth. For those who are trying to lose weight, this should come as great news – an 85gm serving of lean beef provides roughly the same amount of protein as 1.5 cups of beans, but at half the calories.

ALMONDS Almonds are another plant-based food absolutely packed full of protein. Just 1/4 cup of almonds contains nearly 8 grams of protein. Almonds are also an excellent source of heart-healthy monounsaturated fats and magnesium. Magnesium is an abundant mineral that’s used in more than 300 biochemical reactions in the body, and is specifically known to be involved in energy metabolism and protein synthesis.

LEAN CHICKEN Like beef, chicken is an excellent source of high-quality protein, which is important for muscle maintenance and repair, bone health and weight maintenance. Lean chicken is very satisfying and highly nutritious. Furthermore, protein offers a greater rate of satiety, stabilises sugar levels and controls cravings that can often lead to random eating.

COTTAGE CHEESE Not many people know this, but cottage cheese constitutes relatively pure casein protein. For those who don’t know, casein protein is a slow-digesting protein, which means it is perfect for muscle maintenance. This is useful especially if you have no choice but to go long periods without eating. Not forgetting, cottage cheese is also an excellent source of vitamin B12, calcium and other important nutrients.

EGGS Eggs contain high-quality protein, nine essential amino acids, choline, the right kind of fat and vitamin D. To sum it up, they are the most value for money. And please note, eggs are not harmful for your health, as numerous studies have already shown.

WHEY PROTEIN There is a reason why whey protein supplements are the most popular supplement in the bodybuilding world: because they provide a fast and convenient source of protein at an affordable price. Bodybuilders normally use them when they wake up, right after their workout, and mixed with some of their meals. However, for those of us non-bodybuilders, simply using it directly after exercise can be very effective for muscle-mass gains. Do not rely on it completely though. It’s more important to get high-quality protein from whole foods and use whey protein as a boost.

FISH When it comes to building muscle, fish really crushes the competition. Take salmon, for example. Not only is salmon a protein powerhouse yielding around 25 grams of protein per 100-gram serving, but it’s also packed with so many other healthy nutrients that you’d be a fool to avoid it. Salmon is loaded with heart-healthy monounsaturated fats and omega-3 fatty acids. It’s also an excellent source of vitamin D, which is so important in defending our immune system. Oily fish is loaded with good fats which are important for manufacturing hormones in the body and in supporting skin health. All in all, fish, such as tuna or salmon, are simply the best. Go for wild-caught salmon and other fish to ensure you avoid heavy metals that is often found in farmed fish.

QUINOA Not everyone wants to eats meat. But without meat, how can you get that precious protein? Look no further than quinoa, a protein-packed grain native to South America. Not only is quinoa high in protein, the protein it supplies is also complete, meaning that it contains nine of the essential amino acids. This gluten-free food is also easy to digest and is high in fibre, magnesium and iron. No wonder the ancient Incas called quinoa the mother of all grains!

BEETROOTS This may surprise you, but recent research has confirmed that beetroots offer some amazing health benefits. Beetroots are a sweet, surprisingly concentrated source of nutrition. The first clue they’re loaded with nutrition is their bright red colour, which indicates the presence of powerful phytonutrients called betalains. According to several experts, betalains include reddish-purple betacyanin pigments and yellowish betaxanthin pigments. Many of the betalain pigments in beetroots have been shown to provide antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and detoxifying effects. Newer research suggests that, in addition, compounds in beetroots may improve muscle performance, offering a lure not only for athletes, but also for maintaining muscle function as we age. Past research has also found that beetroot juice may boost stamina, as those who drank beet juice prior to exercise were able to exercise for up to 16 per cent longer. This benefit is also thought to be related to nitrates turning into nitric oxide, which may reduce the oxygen cost of low-intensity exercise as well as enhance tolerance to highintensity exercise.

SPINACH Spinach has an extremely high nutritional value and is rich in antioxidants. It is a good source of vitamins A, B2, C and K, and also contains magnesium, manganese, folate, iron, calcium and potassium. The flavonoids and antioxidants found in spinach, particularly the antioxidant beta-carotene, have been shown in multiple studies to help combat many cancers, including breast, prostate and ovarian cancer. Spinach also boosts eye health and has strong anti-ageing properties. A recent study found a bowl of spinach every day increases muscle efficiency. Researchers from the Karolinska Institute in Sweden found participants who consumed 300 grams of spinach a day reduced the amount of oxygen required to power their muscles while exercising by 5 per cent. The effect was noticeable after just three days of spinach consumption.

CONCLUSION If you are serious about achieving exceptional results with your antiageing procedures you will need to look beyond just the topical approach. Understanding the complexities that contribute to the manifestation of ageing in the body should encourage you as a practitioner to work with more than one iron in the fire. As ageing is the result of multidimensional factors, so achieving successful age management may require that you also take a multidisciplinary approach for long-lasting benefits.

Journal Reference: Jean-Philippe Bonjour, Marius Kraenzlin, Régis Levasseur, Michelle Warren, Susan Whiting. Dairy in Adulthood: From Foods to Nutrient Interactions on Bone and Skeletal Muscle Health. Journal of the American College of Nutrition, 2013; 32 (4): 251 DOI: 10.1080/07315724.2013.816604 http://www.livescience.com/35332-face-bones-aging110104.html

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Appearance Services) Act 2003. The new law isn’t expected to affect many businesses, as most tattoo pigment is removed by laser. This will mean that if you own a business where tattoo pigment is removed by a process involving skin penetration after 1 July 2016 you must:

Update October 2015 Queensland Council Licensing requirement for tattoo removal that involves skin penetration

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Have a high risk personal appearance services licence (issued by your local council), and;

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Be mindful of requirements like a sink for hand washing and a sink for washing equipment.

If you personally remove tattoo pigment this way, you must also have an approved infection control qualification. This is an update to previous information about tattoo removal that you may have read before. If you already know about new licensing requirements, there is nothing more you need to do at this time. There will soon be a new licensing requirement in Queensland if you remove tattoo pigment by any processes that involve skin penetration (e.g. using tiny needles and flushing it from the skin). This process will become a higher risk personal appearance service when skin penetration is involved, in which the release of blood or other bodily fluids is an expected result (see section 14 of the Public Health (Infection Control for Personal Appearance Services) Act 2003. It’s important to note that this is separate to the removal of tattoo pigment by laser. Licensing of class four lasers under provisions of the Radiation Safety Act 1999 remain unaffected. This new requirement is now expected to be made on 28 October 2015 but commence on 1 July 2016. This time before the new law comes into effect allows you to plan. The new requirement about removing tattoo pigment will become law through an amendment to the Public Health (Infection Control for Personal Appearance Services) Regulation 2003. The power to do this comes from section 14 (e) of the Public Health (Infection Control for Personal

This new legal requirement is meant to protect you and your customers from infection with blood-borne viruses, like Hepatitis B and Hepatitis C. Infection with these viruses can cause liver failure and/or liver cancer. Tattoo artists, cosmetic tattooists and other people who provide treatments which are expected to cause bleeding must already have a ‘high risk personal appearance service’ licence issued by a council.

Want further information? Contact your local council if you have any questions about matters like fees for a high risk personal appearance service licence or the fit out of your business. Check https://www.legislation.qld.gov.au/Acts_SLs/Acts_SL_P.htm if you want to check the Public Health (Infection Control for Personal Appearance Services) Act 2003. Please contact Katrina.Smith3@health.qld.gov.au or David.Gould@health.qld.gov.au if you would further information. (You may also write to Prevention Division, Department of Health, PO Box 2368 Fortitude Valley BC, Qld 4006).

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AMAZING SKIN BY SARAH HUDSON Sarah Hudson would have to be one of the most dedicated therapists you would want to meet. Her passion drives her to excel in everything she does. Her knowledge is amazing. She is constantly committed to gaining greater understanding on advances in the industry and in communicating this knowledge to her clients. Pushing the boundaries from traditional beauty therapy she is indeed the new breed Aesthetics Practitioner and has evolved her practice to one that equally embraces skin as well as health and wellness. Her business â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Skin by Sarah Hudson is located in Beecroft, NSW and is a hub of activity as clients can't get enough of her. Constantly booked out, it was almost impossible to get this interview with her. However, we are delighted to have finally succeeded, so here are some highlights of our interview with Sarah Hudson.

APJ Q1: Sarah, share with us about your background and when and why did you choose aesthetics as your career path? Sarah: As a beauty therapist I have always been very keen on education and completed several courses, include training with Dermalogica Dermal Institute. Having a real passion for the skin I became an educator with TAFE and several other private colleges. I realised from the outset how important research and on-going education were in helping us gain greater knowledge on how we can continue to improve our work on the skin. I also observed that therapists often failed to pass on this knowledge to their clients. For good treatment outcomes to be maintained it is so important for our

clients to understand what we are doing and how they can best cooperate with us to reach their goals. I then decided to open my own business and put all these principles to practice. As a result I have a very loyal and committed clientele and my business continues to grow through referrals. I truly believe that clients value us sharing our knowledge with them. This knowledge allows them to better understand and appreciate our work and enables them to commit to a good synergy between what we do in the salon or clinic and how they support our efforts through their own follow-up care at home.

APJ Q2: What aspect of your work gives you the greatest satisfaction and sense of accomplishment? Sarah: I would have to say watching the transformation of a client's skin when the improvement is so noticeable that they tell you they no longer need to wear makeup to look good is incredibly satisfying. Knowing that you have managed to stimulate the dermis by improving blood supply and nutrients, as well as stimulating cell regeneration through specific protocols and techniques that result in transforming the skin to its optimal levels of vibrancy, luminosity and healthier, younger-looking skin is so rewarding. 100

APJ Q3: How do you stay up-to-date with advances in the industry and what are the key areas of change that you have experienced during the past five years? Sarah: I am an avid reader. I subscribe to several professional publications as well as cosmetic surgery magazines and of course I gain a lot of insight and knowledge through the APJ Journal. I am constantly immersed in new knowledge and also attend conferences. Additionally, I belong to several social media groups as I believe that exchanging views and ideas is also invaluable to

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progress. Professional networks are a must in staying stimulated and guided in both business and technical areas of advancement. In terms of industry advances I would have to say that the boom in technological advances has been incredible. The devices we have now are amazing. They offer us so many more possibilities than in the past. Additionally, cosmeceutical ingredients and formulations as well as treatment serums and the diverse range of peels all interfacing with each other allow us to lift our treatment outcomes to another level that was not really possible say five to 10 years ago.

APJ Q4: We believe that you prefer to provide specialised services. What are they and how are they relevant to your clients' needs and expectations? Sarah: I no longer offer waxing and tinting services in my business as I have chosen to focus on skin management. I specialise in skinimprovement services and utilise innovative strategies to gain great results. For example, I don't just do a microderabrasion, instead I may combine a scrub followed by a lactic acid chemical peel, thus incorporating mechanical and chemical peeling in such a way that I can achieve better treatment outcomes. We offer specialised treatments that utilise a variety of different peels, laser treatments as well as several chemical skin treatments through specific protocols. Additionally, we also include wellness consultations to determine stress levels and other underlying considerations that may be compromising our results. For example, if we identify that a client is under a great deal of stress we may include several aesthetic therapies to specifically target these concerns. This may be a face, head and shoulder treatment with a variety of skin actives targeting specific issues. As our clients' therapists, it is our responsibility to determine what service strategies we must deliver to ensure that we achieve the best possible and the most long-lasting results, while giving them excellent value for their investment in our services.

APJ Q5: How difficult is business today compared to say three to four years ago, and what are the main threats you have to deal with? Sarah: The industry has progressively changed over the past few years. Traditionally, beauty therapy includes numerous and diverse services. Apart from facials there were also several grooming services that defined the industry. What we are experiencing over the past few years in the skin component of the profession is becoming more dominant and specialised and is better defined as aesthetic therapies that also includes a strong wellness component. More and more the skin-management sector is moving towards also becoming healthcare providers rather than groomers.

APJ Q6: What are the growth opportunities that you will be focusing on over the next 12 months and how do you envisage that these will potentially redefine your brand? Sarah: As I am specialising more and more in various skin conditions I am finding that there are new opportunities to extend

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my scope of practice beyond traditional skincare treatments to more challenging conditions. What I discovered is that as I am working on improving ageing skin, fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, etc, I am gaining a deeper understanding of the skin and identifying ways to reverse skin damage, rejuvenate the skin and enhance its integrity. With this knowledge I am now working with very advanced lasers and crossing over to extend my aesthetic disciplines to other areas such as scar recovery. This is very exciting as it has opened doors for me to work more closely with plastic surgeons on cases such as road accident victims. It is so rewarding to achieve results with cases of severe skin trauma and make a difference in someone's life. I am also consulting one day a week with cases of aesthetic dental work and this also is such an exciting new area of work. With the right knowledge, qualifications and the amazing tools available to us through advanced technologies, aesthetic therapies can be a very fulfilling and rewarding profession.

through the Industry Skills Fund. This is just one example of their valuable contribution to the industry and as members we are the first to benefit. I believe their future plans to introduce a practitioner Registration Program is very exciting and I can't thank them enough for all that they are doing to help raise the standards of the industry.

APJ Q7: Why did you join APAN and how has the organisation supported you and added value to your business? Sarah: I am so blessed to belong to an organisation such as APAN. In particular, I recognise Tina's passion, commitment and hard work in support of the professionalism of the industry, which is a real inspiration. APAN is providing much needed leadership for our industry. As an organisation, their dedication in introducing innovative educational programs is invaluable, as they aim at giving the new breed of aesthetic therapists great recognition. On a governance level they are a strong voice that defends our industry. Their interaction and involvement with government agencies is contributing to the much needed regulatory change that our industry needs. In highlighting one of their achievements, I would also like to mention winning the government funded training program

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Setting a new benchmark in AESTHETICS

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Now these standards can DEFINE YOU

Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) THIS DEGREE BOASTS A RIGOROUS ACADEMIC PROGRAM BUILT AROUND HEALTH SCIENCE SUPPORTED BY EXTENSIVE CLINICAL PRACTICE SKILLS. IT AIMS TO DELIVER THE LATEST IN SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE TO EQUIP GRADUATES FOR THE EXCITING AND RAPIDLY CHANGING AESTHETICS INDUSTRY. The Australasian College of Health and Wellness is now also offering PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT COURSES for those who aspire for higher learning in skin science. If you would like to grow your knowledge on skin to a higher academic level why not consider undertaking a comprehensive unit in:

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! ! ! !

Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin Pathophysiology of the Skin Skin Differential Diagnosis Clinical aesthetics and Dermal Therapy scope of practice Aesthetics Management of Common skin Disorders

These units offered as a seminar series will give graduates an opportunity to gain the benefit of knowledge on the skin at a higher academic level as well as experiencing a learning environment that will open the door to a potential university degree. Should you wish to pursue a degree qualification with the Australasian College of Health and Wellness these units will provide the benefit credit points towards your degree.To register or for further information on these units email: info@tac.edu.au or call 1800 999 963

ENROL NOW! For further information about the Degree please contact Head of Faculty Associate Professor Sinan Ali on 02 8587 8888. Sinan.ali@tac.edu.au www.tac.edu.au/highereducation

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highereducation

STUDENT EXPERIENCES AND THE Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) Officially launched in 2015, the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) is already gaining momentum as students enthusiastically embrace tertiary-level qualifications to confidently prepare for a better future as leading industry professionals in aesthetics and beyond.

the industry and in particular, light-based technologies such as IPL and laser, I was not happy with the very basic training that suppliers were offering, which I found quite limiting to ensure that I could operate as a confident professional.

Building on a foundation of Beauty Therapy, this degree delivers human biology, health science, nutrition, pharmacology, as well as numerous scientific and industry-specific units, at a higher academic level and with a solid practicum program to ensure industry-ready graduates. In fact, this is the point of difference of this qualification to other qualifications currently available.

Running my own salon and despite also having family responsibilities, I still felt that if I was serious about growing the business I needed to also invest in advancing my knowledge so that I could ensure my clients a credible level of treatment outcomes at the highest possible level.

The purpose of this new Bachelor program is to better equip the emerging new breed of dermal and aesthetic therapists in their requirements of advanced result in skin and age management within their clinical practice. Many undertaking this qualification are graduating from Beauty Therapy and transitioning into higher education. However, there is a large contingency who are already running their businesses, but are feeling the need for higher education. With the rapid advances in technology, they are identifying the necessity to improve their knowledge at a standard that will better support them to achieve higher levels in clinical outcomes. This degree is offering them just that. We caught up with three current students who are undertaking the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) with very different profiles, to share their experience with us on how they are managing work, family and study.

JENNIFER KIMBLEY Business owner of Kaleidastyle, NSW Married and mother of two With the flood of new technologies entering

I came to realise that as we advance into age-management treatment we cannot achieve this level of result without a stronger foundation on science and evidence-based practice. Knowledge that will enable us to make better decisions in the products and equipment we choose to work with and the treatment protocols we develop to deliver these treatments. I did quite a bit of research to determine who could offer me the best qualification option and from the start I realised that the Australasian College of Health and Wellness stood out as offering a solid Degree qualification with impressive in-depth subjects as well as diverse units of study that I felt were credible and comprehensive. Their academic staff came with the highest credentials and experience. Their learning environment included modern on-line tools that made learning flexible and this would accommodate my busy lifestyle and commitments. I am a mature student and while I have industry and life experience, I have been out of formal study mode for several years. Entering a university-level study program did have its challenges. However, I found the faculty members very understanding and supportive. They do everything possible to assist me and are more than willing to step outside standard measures to ensure I get the support I need to achieve my study obligations. This is a very unique phenomenon in a tertiary environment. All my family are university students, and compared to their experiences I cannot speak highly enough of the Australasian College of Health and Wellness.

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While I am only in my second semester I am already experiencing how the knowledge I am gaining is starting to change my language and influencing my mindset on how I engage with my daily activities in a more scientific way. I believe that while many in the industry want respect, they need to also move out of the dark ages where the whole focus in predominantly based on practice without a deeper scientific understanding of the skin and body and what we are attempting to achieve. This degree wiii give us that and more. I am privileged to have chosen this pathway and I am very excited about the future and the tools this degree will give me.

SOPHIE ASHTON Business owner of Skin Intuition – NSW Married and mother of two The decision to undertake the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) did not come easy. I am a wife and mother with a young family. Recently, I decided to pursue my own business and my passion has always been skin management. I have worked with doctors in the past and my goal was to establish my practice and deliver the level of treatment outcomes that consumers now expect. Real results and not just pampering. While I work with quality cosmeceuticals and credible technologies, I felt that as a practitioner I needed to also bring my knowledge and education to a higher level. I have attended advanced training programs, but I needed to pull everything together and make better sense of everything, and I soon realised that this was only possible through an industry-specific tertiary qualification. Doctors today, while they appreciate our experience and understanding of the skin, do recognise and respect Degree qualifications more so than a Vocational Education qualification. When you compare the two there is no comparison. A degree has more rigorous academy units as well as depth of knowledge. An advanced diploma for example will give you 10-12 units compared to a degree that will give both broader and deeper knowledge over 24 units. I have to admit that in light of my current obligations I undertook to study the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) with a level of trepidation. However, I was quickly put at ease by the staff and my professors. This is an amazing learning environment. I immediately was made to feel welcome and was assisted in every way possible. I am encouraged to reach out for help when I need it, and in assisting me nothing is too much for them. The lecturers are amazing and the knowledge I am gaining is incredible. I also love that they have some wonderful on-line tools that are easy to use so I can go back over a lecture where I feel I have missed some information and regain my confidence in the subject. I am so thrilled I chose this qualification. It has given me a real sense of positive expectation for the future and I know it will allow me to grow my business and achieve new levels of success. Our industry is changing and those who wish to be respected must understand that we need to move with the times and embrace higher learning. With new regulations, qualifications will become a necessity. More importantly, as we are now competing with cosmetic medicine we need degree qualifications to more effectively professionally interface with doctors.

CHRIS COMANS Medical Cosmetic Tattooist – Perth, WA Business owner Advanced Cosmetic Tattoo Wife and mother of four children ranging from 5 to 28 I am currently working as a Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioner specialising in Medical Cosmetic Tattooing. I work with many cancer patients, particularly with women who have undergone mastectomy. In this capacity I interface and work very closely with plastic surgeons and with several clinics as well as with St Charles Gairdner Hospital here in Perth, which is also a medical teaching hospital. I had read with interest articles on the new Bachelor of Applied Health

Science (Clinical Aesthetics) in this journal, but it was while attending the APAN Aesthetics Conference in Brisbane that I met representatives of the Australasian College of Health and Wellness and was persuaded to pursue the degree. This was not an easy decision and I have to admit that at times I was overwhelmed with the idea of undertaking such a task as I know I would have to dedicate serious time towards my studies. However, as a working mother it was comforting that I could pursue as many units as I felt I could handle at one time. There is something very energising becoming a student again. The realisation that gaining a whole new body of knowledge would open up so many new possibilities is thoroughly exhilarating. What I am excited about is identifying how this degree will change me. I am already realising the value of critical thinking that I am gaining. I am also aware that it will sharpen my analytical and research skills. The units in this degree will not only give me a higher level of knowledge in human science, it will also help me improve my interpersonal and communication skills. Overall, I believe it will give me greater confidence and help me embrace my profession with an even higher appreciation of values and ethics. I now respect the importance of a code of conduct and see the relevance that this is based on qualifications that I believe is so important if a profession is to be respected. The faculty staff are amazing. Their support and the level of flexibility in accommodating student needs and their responsibilities is commendable. This is an important issue to me to gain this support as it will help me in my journey to complete my studies. I am so glad I enrolled in this Degree and I look forward to the future and the personal changes and the opportunities this qualification will bring to my life and my profession. Luckily for me I have a wonderfully supportive husband and four beautiful children ranging in ages from 28 to 5 years old. Besides being mum’s taxi for all the extra curricula activities, I’m also the office manager and bookkeeper for my husband's business as well as owning and running my own business Advanced Cosmetic Tattoo. My house is a constant hive of activity, so for me it’s important to take some time to keep active, so my days generally start at 5:30am with a sunrise walk to take in some morning air and gather my thoughts before the chaos of the day begins. I’m happy to be studying as I feel it is inspiring for my children as well as me.

WHO CAN UNDERTAKE THIS DEGREE? We asked Professor Hayek for his recommendation of good candidates to undertake this degree program and what they can hope to gain from this qualification. “This is an exciting opportunity for beauty therapists who wish to upgrade to a tertiary qualification and improve their career prospects. This qualification will offer them a higher standard of skills and knowledge and ultimately greater confidence and recognition with consumers and with healthcare professionals with whom they will potentially be interfacing”. “It is also an excellent option for nurses or healthcare professionals who wish to change their direction to the dynamic new field of aesthetics, or even beauty therapy students who wish to articulate to a Bachelor’s Degree – the opportunities are endless”, he stated. This degree is designed to accommodate flexible learning, so it will suit an active professional who also has work commitments.

FUNDING With regards to funding support, students can discuss this issue during the enrolment process, as the course is FEE Help approved.

ENROLMENTS AND DURATION OF COURSE Normally the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) can be achieved within a three-year, full-time study period, while part-time student will need six years. On the other hand, if students qualified for recognition of prior learning they can potentially save time.

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!If you would like to discuss your options in undertaking the

Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) please contact the Catherine Lawler-Rohan Student Liaison Officer at the Australasian College of Health and Wellness. Phone 02 8587 8888.

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TATTOO REMOVAL A BOOMING INDUSTRY Revenue for tattoo removal has surged 440% over the past decade according to IBISWorld 2014 research. The demand for tattoo removal is growing daily and we don’t see that changing any time in the near future. The focus on tattoo removal is not just because there are more tattoos or more regret, but also because there are is better technology that allows for better results that meet consumer expectations. Historically there has been controversy over the removal of tattoos, due to the fact treatments in the past have produced less than effective results. The consumer is becoming more educated that new technologies are now smarter, safer and very effective. This has opened doors for savvy business owners who have recognised the opportunity in the market.

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TRAINING A HUGE PRIORITY AT SPECTRUM Training is extremely important to operate tattoo-removal lasers safely and effectively. Spectrum partners with leading training organisations offering accredited courses, supported also by a dedicated training clinic attached to their offices where their fully qualified trainers provide training, conduct clinical trials, test new technologies, and try new treatment methods and parameters that they can share with clients. Training is a huge priority for Spectrum and they have expert training included in the price of purchasing their equipment. This means when customers purchase their equipment they have the qualifications, theoretical knowledge and practical experience to operate the equipment to the highest level, and most importantly safely, while ensuring effective clinical results. In addition to training it is very important to ensure your supplier offers full services including: latest innovative business strategies, creative marketing concepts, excellent technical support and customer service. Spectrum Science & Beauty offers these and many more added value services to ensure that they help take their new and existing customers to the next level, whether they are a medical practice, salon, spa or clinic.

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SPECTRUM OFFER THREE DEVICES THAT CATER FOR ALL MARKETS WITHIN THE INDUSTRY Spectrum Switch and Spectrum Switch Portable The Spectrum Switch QS Nd:YAG Tattoo Removal Laser is uniquely designed in Australia for Australian needs, which makes tattoo removal more accessible to salons, spas, clinics and practices across Australia. This is achieved because our engineers have revolutionised the tattoo and hand-piece design, while maintaining the best possible result. The Spectrum Switch radiates the light of specific wavelengths in a high-peak, ultra-short, nanosecond energy pulse. The light penetrates the tissue and is absorbed by the pigment and results in an instantaneous blast. The pigment particles are deconstructed into small fragments; parts of them will be bounced out of the skin and the other parts will be split into tiny particles that

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productperformers UAC will also include a portal that will allow consumers to learn more about our industry and gain a great understanding of how we operate as a professional community and as an industry. They will get their questions answered and access accurate educational information to help them appreciate our services and identify the choices that will best meet their needs in terms of treatment options and products.

SO WHAT WILL UAC OFFER? Urban Aesthetic Culture, more commonly known as UAC, is the new APAN online community and the aesthetic practitioners' online social platform. It's a place where professional aestheticians, industry businesses, suppliers, organisations and friends can get together, have fun and share.

WHO WILL I FIND THERE? UAC is all about connecting like-minded individuals that share common goals, passion and interest in the fields of aesthetic skin management, anti-ageing, integrative health and physical fitness, as well as natural and holistic wellness.

WHAT IS AVAILABLE? There is an abundance of activities you can interact with in the community, and taking a tour around UAC is as though you had wandered into a unique urban suburb where you discover all kinds of entertainment, relaxation and surprises. You may find yourself strolling down a contemporary designers lane, or perhaps intrigued with the 1900s of aesthetic history or the hype surrounding the latest trends, health and wellness concepts, innovations with variations,

APAN launches new interactive initiative

Aesthetic Practitioners Online Social Platform The APAN community spirit! Would you agree that on-line platforms are the preferred model of interaction for both industry-specific groups and communities at large? While everyone has their own on-line social media links, APAN saw the need to create an industry communication hub as the broader umbrella that will allow the aesthetics industry to access both resources and industry-specific information as well as have fun. Introducing UAC â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the on-line community platform that will cover not just useful tips and information, but also a environment to enjoy life and have fun.

beauty, fashion, calming yoga, toning Pilates or for a thrill, extreme sports.

HOW CAN I INTERACT? One of the popular activities is watching and sharing those hilarious moments and encounters in life that will see you release a bucketload of beta-endorphins. Once you have become a registered member of the community you can share inspiration and motivational quotes, post success stories and upload photos and videos experiences that bring smiles to everyone, or even post recruitment o r b u s i n e s s opportunities. Members of the community can post content with text of up to 100 characters.

THE BIG SCREEN News Cast is a weekly feature that brings you all the latest industry news and events and you will be able to watch this on the UAC big screen from your own device. Participating at the UAC film studio can be anything from a barrel of laughs to the most

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serious discussion. We invite by invitation request individuals and groups on the couch at UAC to share news, events or personal achievements. These short films can be watched on the big screen at UAC.

MEET AND GREET IN GROUPS The community provides members with online spaces where motivated individuals can meet to collaborate ideas, discuss industry developments and advance industry advisory network. University alumni and Diploma alumni have their own special spaces where they can get together and exchange aspirations for the future or invite an advisory network expert to assist with direction or guidance.

COMMUNITY CARE Caring for others is a big part of UAC and we hope you will support our fund raising and help women in our South Pacific nations that suffer greatly from the lack of basic essentials. Clean drinking water and water for basic essential life purposes is an essential and we want to help every man, woman and child to have access to clean water. We achieve this through sponsorship for this cause. Walk for Water is a fund-raising program that you and your business can join and help UAC help those in need. The UAC annual Walk for Water event will be held next March 2016 and we would love you to participate. Kindness multiplied makes a bigger difference. It's is a real community, so stop for a moment, take a breather and enjoy a few moments in UAC.

Live the Dream

BECOMING A MEMBER You can register online at www.urbanaestheticculture.com, enter your email address and choose a password – and that's it. Your registered – welcome to your community, take a look around, relax, feel comfortable, put your feet up. It's yours, have fun and share. Existing APAN members will be automatically registered and sent an email notification. Come on in, take a look around, see who you can find and what fun things you can do and share.

UAC is all about CONNECT – SHARE – FUN

· Experiences · Take a break and chillax · Celebrate inspirational moments · Share hilarious video and photo encounters · Review products · Foster new contacts · Participate on advisory network group discussions · Pitch ideas, brainstorm and encourage · Connect with other health, wellness and aesthetic industry groups · Access APJ Journal library highlights · Follow and Feed on APAN Weekly News Cast

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THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY By Luke Fenandez MBA When Kim Tran of La Belle Peau in North Perth started her salon some eight years ago she thought much of the business would be common sense, but soon she learnt by a process of trial and error that business was just going to be tough going, at least for those early years. "Every business big or small needs a leader with strong management skills,” she now says. “While it is important to know the industry, business owners or managers also need to understand how to get the most out of their employees and to manage them well, which helps the business to run smoother and grow faster. Business owners can also develop their people-management skills to connect with their customers, to plan marketing strategies and develop business services.”

You may have read The E-Myth, in which the story is plain and simple, yet profound. Most businesses are started by technicians, who very quickly learn it doesn’t matter how good a technician you are, business success necessarily means mastery of a completely new set of business skills and competencies. And if you are time poor, as the business grows and debts mount, time is not something that avails itself to the busy entrepreneur. Without vigilance the dream can quickly fade into a nightmare. IBISWorld’s estimates from shop registration figures indicate that between 15 per cent and 25 per cent of salons will undergo a change in ownership each year. Make no mistake, the beauty industry in Australia is in a dynamic state of change and fiercely competitive. So it is very important, especially in the modern pace of beauty business, that each manager or business owner in this industry develops their own skills as a manager. The Diploma of Management BSB51107 (Medispa Practice) is a specifically designed management course contextualised to the beauty and cosmetic medical industry. This nationally recognised qualification will make a meaningful contribution to your business effort, and can make all the difference in practice management, turning night into day and leaving you with a more productive and more prosperous beauty practice that has the best chance of not just surviving, but thriving. The Diploma of Management BSB51107 (Medispa Practice) is currently delivered only through the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS). It is delivered online with flexible study load options to ensure minimal disruption to business operations.

For more information about the Diploma of Management BSB51107 (Medispa Practice), please email the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) at enquiries@aacds.edu.au or visit aacds.edu.au

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The Aesthetic Practitioners Social Platform

Connect Share Fun

The best things to hold onto in life are free Audrey Hepburn

Finally It's Here The Aesthetic Practitioners' Online Social Platform The fun place where Aesthetic Practitioners and their friends can come together and share

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It's Yours, Connect, Have Fun and Share

memberprofile

A brilliant Career in COSMETIC TATTOOING With over 25 years of experience in Cosmetic Tattooing, Janette Zakos is considered a veteran and a perfectionist when it comes to her profession. As one of the first practitioners to be trained in Australia, and through her on-going pursuit in perfecting her skills and knowledge, Janette has gained the reputation as a master in her field. Her trademark is that of excellence, as every procedure displays both careful thought and skilled artistry. Much of her success is attributed to not just her on-going education, but also in developing her own unique technique that can deliver amazing precision through easier pathways. While teaching for over 10 years, in recent times Janette has qualified to deliver government-approved qualifications in a bid to support higher standards for practitioners and the reputation of the profession as a whole. As an APAN member we caught up with Janette to share some her views and highlights of her work.

APJ Q1: Janette, how did you get started with Cosmetic Tattooing and what drew you to embrace it as a profession? Janette: With a background in nursing I entered the beauty industry having studied for a diploma in Beauty Therapy with Madame

Korner in Sydney. Soon after I became aware of Cosmetic Tattooing and wanted to also pursue that direction. This was 25 years ago. My original training in Cosmetic Tattooing was with Val Glover Hovan and I believe I was her second student. While I continued in beauty therapy I soon realised that in cosmetic tattooing was where my niche and passion lied. Over the years I attended as many post-graduate course as I could and perfected my techniques and also developed my own techniques which I believed contributed to achieve excellence in these procedures. I had great opportunities to perfect my procedures as during the past 16 years I have been working within medical cosmetic clinics where I performed laser and IPL treatments as well as cosmetic tattooing as a contractor.

APJ Q2: What do you love the most about your work and do you have a favourite procedure and why? Janette: I would have to say that I love changing people's lives and improving their confidence level, particularly with breast work. I find this the most rewarding aspect of my work. Over the years I have made a lot of friendships with beautiful people I have met. I love what you can achieve through cosmetic tattooing. It is such an art and a joy establishing a vision of what you want to achieve and then completing it. Many of these changes have resulted in my clients or patients crying and hugging me for helping to change their life. Once you establish that trust, it is amazing they often come back for other procedures. I have never needed to advertise my work as I

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am kept busy by referrals. I own this success not just to my attention to detail, but also because I work with products that deliver amazing results. I often do corrective work with colour that changed due to inferior products used in the first place. Do I have a favourite procedure? Not really, I love all the procedures I perform, but the most rewarding part is changing someone's life.

APJ Q3: What is the most exciting thing about current advances in Cosmetic Tattooing and how does it differ from when you first started 20 years ago? Janette: The industry has advanced both in techniques and equipment. We now have some amazing new machines that can make precision work easier. Back in the old days I started doing cosmetic tattooing with a bamboo stick and pain management was limited. Today we have advances with anaesthetic formulations as well as equipment. New techniques such as microblading for quick results are all the rage at the moment as this technique can achieve a great eyebrow result. However, the downside is that microblading as a procedure only lasts six months, whereas classical cosmetic tattooing techniques are longer lasting. We are also reinventing the feathering technique with a single needle. Soft shading is also another technique that can help give a more natural look. At the moment that heavy eyebrow with a strong angular look is very much the trend, but I believe it is not for everyone and it will date. We will come back to the less fake, natural look, so perfecting shading and 3D techniques will serve us well as they will be timeless. I am also excited about APAN's new accreditation program that advocates clearly defined standards of practice and supporting that cosmetic tattooists achieve government-approved qualifications that will raise the professionalism of the industry. I am a strong

supporter for this and this is why I have chosen to qualify so that I can assist the industry in either full training, or assessing their skills against a qualification through Recognition of Prior Learning assessment.

APJ Q4: In your experience what attributes make a good cosmetic tattooist? Janette: Cosmetic tattoo is a detailed practice, so a good candidate is someone who is passionate about detail and is willing to be constantly committed to their on-going advancement of their skills so that they can fine-tune their expertise. To succeed in this profession you also need to have insight and vision for your future and what you want to achieve. It is also important that you have compassion for people and use your skills and knowledge to help improve their confidence and self-steem.

APJ Q5: When did you start getting involved in training and why did you choose to focus on governmentapproved qualification? Janette: I have been involved with training for 10 years and I have to say I enjoy sharing my knowledge and techniques. I also now recognise that the industry needs government-approved qualification to bring a level of uniformity to the industry. It is all about progress, and if I can contribute to improving the standards of the industry as a whole that is a worthwhile pursuit.

APJ Q6: Are you finding that there is a demand for government-approved qualifications and are these candidates new to the industry or practitioners who just wish to achieve formal qualifications? Janette: I am finding more and more that new people choosing to become qualified in cosmetic tattooing are seeking for more than

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just a Statement of Completion - they want government approved qualifications. However, progressively we are also seeing existing cosmetic tattooists, especially those who value recognised standards, seeking to upgrade their credentials to a government approved qualification.

APJ Q7: Share with us a memorable experience that gave you great satisfaction in your profession? Janette: One moving experience was with a little girl who was having her ninth birthday and was suffering from alopecia. After completing her treatment I turned to her and said, "Give me a hug and consider the treatment as a gift for your birthday". Bringing joy to this little girl's life was an amazing and very moving experience. Last week I had a client with autoimmune diseases. She had previously had a cosmetic tattoo procedure and the colour had changed so I corrected the colour and also gave her beautifully tattooed lips. She was thrilled.

APJ Q8: What legacy do you want to leave behind when you finally retire? Janette: I love this industry and I consider it a joy to train others in pursuing a profession that will be as successful as mine. I love to help them achieve their own goals, with the added advantage of gaining from my many years of experience and knowledge.

Whether you want to enter this field of work and train as a Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioner or wish to upgrade your credentials to gain a government-approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing, please contact Janette Zakos on 0414 389 603. or email janettezakos@gmail.com

TRAIN or UPSKILL in COSMETIC TATTOOING Offer your clients an exceptional service! Cosmetic Tattooing offers a very rewarding profession for Beauty Therapists who wish to extend their scope of practice. This is a very exciting and rewarding profession. Improve confidence and self-esteem like no other modality and transform lives through the amazing techniques of Cosmetic Tattooing. Janette Zakos has 25 yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; experience as a Master Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioner and has 10 yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; experience in teaching these techniques. Gain Government-Approved qualifications as a: ! New Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioner ! Upgrade your existing training, skills and knowledge to a Government-approved qualification.

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If you are an already trained and experienced Cosmetic Tattooist then you may qualify for Recognition of Prior Learning. Why not find out today?

For further details Phone Janette Zakos today 0414 389 603 or email janettezakos@gmail.com

Anti-ageing – The Biomimetic way Dr. Spiller Collagen Cream – The ultimate skin moisturiser Dr. Spiller Collagen Cream is gaining momentum as the secret cult favourite of dermal therapists, celebrities, models & makeup artists worldwide. This famous blue cream derives its colour from Azulene, an organic compound obtained from German Chamomile. Dr. Spiller Collagen Cream is a unique formulation of collagen hydrolysates and powerful actives, delivered in a rich combination of skin friendly emollients. It instantly quenches dry skin, leaving it plumper, smoother and feeling revitalized.

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The Amazing BIOELEMENTSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; CRYOTHERMIC BODY-WRAP TREATMENT Experience a more youthful-looking body Traditionally, most people are less active during the winter months. Due to the colder weather there is a tendency to also indulge in a little extra comfort food to gain extra energy, and the result can lead to the not-so-favourable numbers on our scales, as well as the appearance of cellulite.

and cold, also known as contrast therapy. The theory behind contrast bath therapy is that the warm water causes vasodilation of the blood flow in the limbs and body as a whole, followed by the cold water, which causes vasoconstriction, increasing local blood circulation.1

While your clients will be visiting you to improve their skin, they will also be grateful if you can offer them a relaxing, detoxifying and body-shaping treatment with proven results. So are you ready to offer an amazing bodyshaping experience?

Additionally, the lymph vessels contract when exposed to cold and relax in response to heat. The lymph system, unlike the circulatory system, lacks a central pump.2 Alternating hot and cold, lymph vessels dilate and contract to essentially "pump" and move stagnant fluid out of the area. This positively affects the inflammation process, which is the body's primary mechanism for healing damaged tissue. Studies also confirm3 that fluctuations in intramuscular temperature were lower than those caused by a hot bath alone. Other studies indicate that thermal stress seems to positively influence the immune system.4,5

Bioelements, specialists in customised skincare formulations, also offer an amazing detoxifying and body-shaping treatment with the added benefits of melting stress away. Based on the highly successful cryothermic principles, it offers an exhilarating experience as well as amazing results.

THE SCIENCE Poor microcirculation and stagnant lymphatic flow are key contributing factors to cellulite and imperfect body shape. One way to stimulate lymph and blood flow as well as the immune system is through alternating heat

There are several cultures, particularly in Scandinavia countries, that use these techniques to improve immunity, health and support metabolism. Amazing results have been achieved for arthritic conditions, stress and poor metabolic rate, as well as for poor circulation and lymphatic flow.

BIOELEMENTS CRYOTHERMIC BODYWRAP TREATMENT Ancient Chinese wisdom has taught that by tapping into the power of specific plants one can attain radiant health and beauty. The knowledge of potent plant powers has been passed on from generation to generation, and tested millions of times for their effectiveness for health and beauty. This study is known as Herbology and is now considered as a science. Using the principles of contrast (heat and cold) therapy and combining them with Chinese Herbology to enhance the synergistic effects and benefits to the body, Bioelements launched

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Cryothermic Body Treatment. This is a highly effective body treatment that delivers amazing benefits including:

! ! ! ! !

Supports detoxification Stimulates circulation and lymph flow Energising metabolic rate Targets stubborn cellulite areas Awakens skin and improves texture and tone

Isn't this what every woman wants as she prepares for the summer months?

CRYOTHERMIC BODY GEL CryoThermic Body Gel is a scientifically advanced formula that corrects the visible signs of imperfect body skin by targeting microcirculation. An immediate difference can be seen in just one treatment. The unique CryoThermic formula generates hot and cold sensations to the skin, giving a relaxing, yet invigorating sensation while improving blood and lymphatic circulation. The active ingredients in the CryoThermic Body Gel deliver a highintensity cold/hot body wrap that work on the principles of vasoconstriction and vasodilation to address specific body concerns. Dual sensations of cold and hot stimulate the circulatory system, encouraging the body’s own slimming process. Additionally, the contrasting temperatures will purge excess toxins, relieves water retention and help firm the skin and tissues. Additional features include:

•

Lightweight gel base made from aloe leaf juice is easily absorbed into skin, allowing greater penetration of treatment to target problem areas.

The CryoThermic Body Treatment is recommended for: ! Water retention (swelling and puffiness) ! Lack of tissue firmness ! Toxicity ! Sluggish microcirculation ! Cellulite ! Poor lymphatic drainage Key ingredients: Niacinamide – vitamin B3 derivative, firms skin by stimulating microcirculation ! Peppermint Leaf Water ! Basil Oil – strong antioxidant properties ! Eucalyptus Oil – antibacterial ! Rosemary Oil – stimulating and energising ! CryoThermic Signature Blend that produces highintensity cold and hot sensations, stimulating microcirculation within tissues, purging excess toxins and relieving water retention. ! Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) to strengthen capillaries ! Echinacea Purpurea Extracts – Firms sagging skin ! Aloe Leaf Juice – Hydrates skin tissues

The treatment finishes with Bioelements’ VITALIZATION Once the wrap is removed the body is treated with an amazing nutrient-rich body cream to further support and accelerate the treatment results. Bioelements’ Vitalization™ is formulated with scientifically advanced ingredients that treat the skin on the body with the same care and active ingredients you would expect from a cosmeceutical. Using next-generation Bioelements’ Vitalization technology, this formula banishes dryness, smooths away dry surface cells, restores radiance and encourages firmer skin tissue.

and other active ingredients, this amazing product delivers incredible results. Next-generation technology incorporates active ingredients enabling multi-functional benefits to be performed in one product, while stimulating cell renewal for a more vibrant, younger-looking skin. Key ingredients: ! Potassium lactate, polyglutamic acid, polypeptide, methylglycerine amino acid regulate the skin’s moisture level and banish dryness by both binding moisture from within and acting as a humectant to attract moisture. This complex also smoothes away rough, brittle surface cells by triggering exfoliation. ! Pure Botanical Oils (Apricot Kernel, Canola, Olive, Rice Bran, Grape, Black currant, Sunflower Seed Oil, Bergamot, Cardamon, Clove). These 100% pure plant oils provide valuable nutrients to the improving skin radiance, while creating a pleasurable aromatic experience. ! Shea Butter – a natural derived oil from the fruit of the karite tree, offers amazing hydrating properties. ! Red Tea – rich in flavinoids with antioxidant benefits, 50 times more effective than green tea, protects against free radical damage that contributes to sagging. ! Beta-Carotene – a powerful antioxidant that converts into vitamin A for improved skin tone. Phone 1300 262 275 today to introduce the amazing BIOELEMENTS CRYOTHERMIC BODY WRAP TREATMENT into your service menu. We guarantee your clients will love it. With these amazing results client loyalty and repeat visits will become a breeze. REFERENCES: 1.Bieuzen, François; Bleakley, Chris M.; Costello, Joseph Thomas (201301-01). "Contrast water therapy and exercise induced muscle damage: a systematic review and meta-analysis". PloS One 8 (4): e62356. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0062356. ISSN 1932-6203. PMC 3633882. PMID 23626806. 2. www.Medindia.net 3. Higgins, Diana and Kaminski,Thomas W. (1998). "Contrast Therapy Does Not Cause Fluctuations in Human Gastrocnemius Intramuscular Temperature". J Athl Train 33 (4): 336–40. PMC 1320584. PMID 16558531. 4. Adaptation related to cytokines in man: effects of regular swimming in ice-cold water 5. Immune changes in humans during cold exposure: effects of prior heating and exercise

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Benefits include: Surrounding the skin with the enticing aroma of 10 botanical oils

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productperformers

BUSINESS NEWS

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

10 WAYS TO IMPROVE YOUR CONNECTION SKILLS AND BOOST YOUR BUSINESS Everyone in your business needs to develop connection skills, especially those who hold management positions and are responsible for influencing your team. However, it is not enough to be appointed as a manager if you cannot lead. Managers lead from a position of authority, whereas leaders lead from a combination of authority and connection. It is not unusual for managers who are good at organising tasks to require help developing the personal leadership skills necessary to better connect and maintain a connection with the people they will need to guide and influence. Weak connection skills hold many managers back from becoming leaders that people want to follow. The following attitudes, language, and behaviours will help facilitate connection. 1. Recognise varying connection needs. People have different predispositions when it comes to their sensitivities to feeling connection or lack thereof. People also respond differently to actions in terms of whether or not it makes them feel connected. Learn about the people you lead, and tailor your behaviour to connect based on what you’ve learnet about each individual. Also note that each age group have their own values and supporting these will allow you to find common ground. 2. Be present in conversations. It has been said that attention is oxygen for relationships. As the manager you will have many things

on your mind. However, if you wish to engage your staff or clients it is important that when meeting with them get in the habit of being present by giving them your full attention. Show that you are engaged and interested by asking questions, and then asking followup questions to clarify. Listen carefully, observing facial expressions and body cues. Don’t break the connection by checking your phone, looking around the room or letting your mind wander. 3. Develop the ability to empathise. Mutual empathy is a powerful connector that is made possible by mirror neurons in our brains. Mirror neurons act like an emotional Wi-Fi system. When we feel the emotions of others it makes them feel connected to us. When we feel their positive emotion it enhances the positive emotion they feel. When we feel their pain, it diminishes the pain they feel. If someone expresses emotion it’s OK, and natural, for you to feel it too. 4. Develop the habit of emphasising positives. Psychologist John Gottman first observed that marriages were less likely to survive when the positive/negative ratio of interactions dipped below 5-to-1 (or five positive interactions to every negative interaction). More recently, psychologist Barbara Fredrickson found that a positivity ratio also applied in the workplace. People need affirmation and recognition, so get in the habit of looking for ways to affirm and serve others. Do this by looking for task strengths and character strengths, which reflect the excellence of a person’s work and the way that person goes about her work, respectively. For example, you might affirm a staff member by saying, “Nancy, how you communicated and finished off your consultation with Mary Smith was outstanding. Well done!” You might affirm her character strengths by saying, “Nancy, I appreciate the way you persevered

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and came up with a positive solution when your client was hesitant to rebook. You showed real initiative and what you communicated was credible information that helped your client change her mind. Very nicely done”. 5. Control your tone of voice. Recognise that people will instinctively react to the delivery of your message before they hear its content. They may put up a wall and become defensive or feel threatened if your tone of voice is booming, shrill or strident. When under stress take a few moments to take a deep breath and calm yourself before you communicate with others. 6. Negotiate with the mindset to solve a problem rather than to win. You can build connections with people during negotiations if you adopt and maintain the right mindset. Thinking of the people you are negotiating with as competitors leads to disconnection and distrust. Instead, think of them as holding knowledge that you need in order to identify a win-win solution. Negotiating requires probing, patience and perseverance to understand other people’s objectives, perceptions and sensitivities. 7. Provide autonomy in execution. Monitor progress and be available to help your direct reports, but refrain from micromanaging unless they ask for specific help. On the job, give them directions favouring guidelines rather than hard rules and controls, and let people know that you are available if they have questions or would like you to act as a sounding board. This meets the human need for autonomy and allows people to experience personal growth. 8. Learn and apply the five languages of appreciation. Ask your staff for feedback of times they remember receiving recognition at work. Find out what their primary and secondary languages of appreciation are. The five languages of appreciation in the workplace are words of affirmation, quality time, acts of service, gifts and physical touch. However, note that physical touch is not a primary language of appreciation in the workplace, and should

generally be avoided. To learn more, read Gary Chapman and Paul White’s The 5 Languages of Appreciation in the Workplace. 9. Apologise when you make a mistake. We all make mistakes, but not everyone says they’re sorry. Apologising is an important step that will help rebuild connection. "I am sorry if I misunderstood you or if what I said hurt you, that was not my intention. Let's see how we can rectify this." Comments like this allows your staff to realise that you recognise that you are only human and that you are prepared to be flexible in your own journey for growth, something they will come to appreciate. 10. Develop social skills and relationship skills, and recognise the difference between them. Many individuals develop social skills, which make them excellent networkers who impress and connect with others in casual interactions. However, in addition to social skills, it is essential to develop relationship skills, which help create deeper connections with a few people who have your back. Consider the skills you use when meeting someone for the first time versus nurturing your relationship with a best friend. Relationship skills – regularly spending time with an individual, being open to sharing your struggles, sharing someone’s joy and pain, being there in times of need, and so on – help develop the deeper connections that are necessary for individual wellness and wellbeing to thrive in life and achieve sustainable superior performance. Scientific research has shown that human connection makes us more productive, healthier and happier. Research also shows that greater connection boosts revenue, profit and shareholder returns. Begin connecting and just watch what happens. Over time you will see that connection impacts more than the bottom line. As you experience greater peace, hope and joy that come from having an abundance of connection in your life, you will have discovered wealth of even greater value. Ref : ConnectionCulture.com

FACEBOOK OVERHAULS PAGES TO HELP SMES: WHAT YOUR BUSINESS NEEDS TO KNOW Small businesses that use Facebook as part of their marketing now have a greater array of tools at their disposal, with the social network rolling out several updates to its pages recently. The updates aim to improve how Facebook pages are viewed on mobile devices and in turn, help small businesses tap into the 81% of Australian Facebook users that are connected to SMEs on the platform. Businesses on Facebook will now be able to add a “call-to-action” button to feature prominently, which will sit directly under the business’s cover photo when the page is viewed on mobile devices. 100

In a blog outlining the new feature, Facebook said the “call-toaction” buttons should be used to “bring a business’s most important objective to the forefront of its page, whether it’s encouraging people to book an appointment or browse an online shop”. Over time, businesses will also be able to add additionally “call now”, “send message” and “contact us” buttons to their pages. Businesses will now also be able to add different sections to their Facebook Page, including a “Shop” section for retail businesses or a “Services” section for service-based businesses.

For example, a day spa could list the different treatments a customer can purchase under the “Services” tab or promote the beauty products it sells in the “Shop” section.

“Until now, pages have been largely the same for every business,” Facebook said. “Now we’re beginning to add new sections to pages, so different types of businesses can prominently feature the information that is most relevant to their organisation.”

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Mobile users will also be able to switch between tabs on a business’s Facebook page, meaning the amount of scrolling and clicking is reduced. “People are spending more time on their phones and tablets, which means businesses need to keep up with people’s expectation that they can find information and communication with a business anytime, anywhere, on any device,” Facebook said. Facebook said the changes will be rolled out over the next few weeks and businesses should expect more mobile-driven updates soon. “This is just the beginning,” the social network said, adding the updates to Facebook pages also build on updates to the way businesses can message individual Facebook users, which were started in August 2015. Steve Vallas, social media expert and co-founder of social commerce agency Chunky Media, stated that the Facebook pages updates make sense given the progression of social media users to using the platforms from their mobile devices is well-documented. “The progression to mobile is accelerating and Facebook says itself 60%-ish of consumption is now on mobile,” Vallas says. Vallas says Facebook has been testing the use of “call-to-action” buttons in the US for approximately 12 months and he says the

feature is “part of a trend of getting users more and more comfortable engaging with brands” on the platform. “They talk about immersive experience now,” he says. “The ultimate game is owning the wallet.” Vallas says Facebook’s recent updates to its advertising products, including allowing businesses to use carousel ads or dynamic product ads that can be retargeted based on traffic to a business’ own website, are part of the same trend. “But small businesses aren’t necessarily in the position to retarget based on their traffic, so it’s about making sure the smaller end of town are looked after,” Vallas says. But while Vallas says some businesses may be concerned that Facebook is attempting to make sure brands “live” within the walls of Facebook, he says small businesses must embrace the social media platform. “The reality is there is an opportunity for those who embrace it,” he says. “Most won’t, it will seem to hard … but it’s where people are.” That being said, Vallas says using Facebook to market your business should not come at the expense of other marketing activities. “The old adage of don’t put all your eggs in one basket still holds true,” he says. Ref: Smartcompany.com Act clearly sets out the Tax Commissioner’s powers. So the message is simple: the ATO has extensive information-gathering powers and if you’re not doing the right thing you are running a serious risk of being caught. Even if you are doing the right thing, you may be subject to intense scrutiny; you need to be prepared and have a good accountant on your side!

So how can you protect yourself and ensure you're doing the right thing?

HOW TO SURVIVE THE ATO CRACKDOWN ON SMES In 2014 APAN was approached by Australia Tax Office representatives from Canberra with regards to releasing educational information on ATO compliance in view that 2015 would be the year when they will be systematically targeting businesses and in particular salons that classify themselves as either hair or beauty. While this process is still in force the latest news is that the Australian Tax Office is planning to target up to 90,000 small businesses it says are failing to comply with their tax obligations. Business owners would do well to take note of the ATO's interesting and sometimes extensive tactics for gathering information. It is not uncommon to be contacted directly by the ATO wanting information on transactions of businesses that are not your clients’ but based on the information your clients had. You may not think you need to provide this, but the tax office points out that the Tax Administration

No matter how cautious you are in keeping every receipt, docket and diary record, there is always a risk that your business will receive an inquiry from the ATO. We know that to have an effective tax system it is necessary that reviews are undertaken, although that doesn’t help take the sting out when it’s you on the receiving end. It is normal to feel some stress while you are under review and often there can be several rounds of queries from the ATO. It is important to know that a review is not an indication or suggestion that you or your business has done anything wrong. As long as the ATO’s requests are appropriately managed, the matter can often be resolved without amendment. Reviews can be completely random or you could be selected because you fall outside of a norm across your industry. While there is no real way to know who will be chosen, there are some activities and transactions that will put you at a higher risk.

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Businesses operating in industries where cash is a common form of payment such as hairdressers and some beauty salons are subject to high scrutiny. The ATO provides benchmarks on its website for these industries and if the information that you report on your tax return is outside of these ranges, your risk of audit is high. There are many reasons why your business might not meet these benchmarks

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and if you operate in one of these industries, your accountant should check your figures against these benchmarks and try to identify why, so that you’re prepared if the ATO comes knocking.

insurance is a relatively low cost way to protect yourself from the professional fees that you can be up for.

What if you know something is wrong? Another way to almost guarantee a call or letter from the ATO is to lodge a Business Activity Statement (BAS) with an unusually large refund. This may happen because you purchased a large piece of equipment, for example. In these circumstances, the review generally happens almost immediately after lodging the BAS and, if you are not prepared, it can hold up the refund. Make sure that you have valid tax invoices for all of your purchases before you lodge your BAS, and if you are registered for GST on a cash basis, check that payment has been made during the BAS period. Where all records are in order, these reviews are generally resolved very quickly and refunds are released. Capital gains, particularly where you have been able to take advantage of small business, main residence or other concessions, are a common review area, and it is for this reason that tax agents often require extensive information from you when we prepare your returns. Tax reviews and audits take many forms – phone, in writing or faceto-face. It is generally advantageous to have a tax agent by your side when you’re dealing with the ATO as they understand how to best resolve the query. Where you’ve done the right thing there should not be any tax amendment as a result of the audit, but it can sometimes be time consuming to respond to the queries. Tax Audit

If you know that something may not be correct in your disclosures to the Taxation Office and the ATO finds this out through the course of an audit, it has the power to charge up to 100% of the tax shortfall in penalties. If you think that you may have done the wrong thing, the earlier that you make a disclosure the better. Making a disclosure before the Tax Office calls can completely remove the penalty, and if a disclosure is made at the start of an audit, the penalties can also be significantly reduced. Mindful that many businesses can fall weak in this area, APAN has established a valuable new strategic partner for the benefit of its members. Olive Gray Business Solutions offers bookkeeping services at excellent member rates. Their principal, Vanessa Kirkham, is a qualified accountant, registered BAS Agent and is a member of the Institute of Public Accountants. She has extensive experience with taxation compliance having held a position with the ATO for over three years, so she understands where businesses can struggle, particularly in our industry. Vanessa also holds a Diploma of Health Science (Beauty Therapy) and has worked in the past in the industry, so she is very familiar with the special needs of salons and clinics. If you would like to speak to her to discuss your needs you can phone her on 0412 707 044.

TIME IS OF THE ESSENCE: SIMPLE TIPS TO IMPROVE PRODUCTIVITY IN THE WORKPLACE Productivity is critical to your success at work. Business owners, managers and executives all want to get the most from their employees. If you’re not performing as efficiently or effectively as others, your longterm job prospects could be in trouble. If you're not accomplishing enough throughout the day, consider how you allocate your time. To get more done at work (and have more time to spend doing what you love), consider these seven simple tips to increase productivity: 1. Set your schedule for the next day the night before you leave for work Prioritise which tasks need to be completed. Even if you are interrupted by unexpected assignments or emergencies, you'll know exactly what needs to be done when you return to your desk. Not only will a schedule help keep you organised and focused, you'll get the satisfaction of crossing items off your "to do" list once you complete them. 2. Take a five-to-10-minute break whenever you feel mentally fatigued Take a short walk down the hall to the water cooler, or even across the street for a cup of coffee. Brief interludes from work can actually increase your productivity by getting your blood flowing and allowing you to return to your work with fresh eyes.

3. Reduce your multi-tasking Although multi-tasking is currently in vogue, trying to accomplish more than one task at a time can actually be more harmful than helpful. Studies have shown that people who try to do two or more activities at once end up becoming distracted, and the quality of their work suffers. Focus on one task at a time, complete it properly and move on to the next project. 4. Eliminate potential distractions Although interruptions during the workday are inevitable, minimise them to the extent possible. If you have an office with a door, keep it closed. When a co-worker is looking to shoot the breeze, let him or her know that you’re trying to finish a project, but would be happy to chat later. (Just be sure not to brush off any of your superiors.) 5. Impose deadlines on yourself, and stick to them As you would with a financial budget, budget your time to help you meet deadlines faster. Some people who thrive under deadlines even deliberately shorten their workday by 15 minutes to ensure optimum efficiency.

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6. Avoid large, heavy lunches that will leave you feeling fatigued Instead, snack on foods high in protein, fibre and antioxidants throughout the day. Nuts and berries will keep you full and focused. Sugary foods and energy drinks keep you going only for a short time, and the inevitable "crash" may turn you into a zombie and ruin your ability to work for the rest of the day.

7. Keep your workspace clean and clear of clutter As the old saying goes, "A cluttered desk is a symptom of a cluttered mind". The time you spend looking for misplaced papers each day is extra time you could be using to complete your work. Likewise, there are apps to assist you in categorising and electronically organising your email inbox. Imagine the time you could save by no longer searching for hard-to-find emails!

HOW TO WIN NEW CLIENTS AND WHY THE OLD-TIME SELLING STYLE JUST DOESN'T WORK ANYMORE

businesses to keep sales teams fit for purpose they need to make sure sales development embraces four-dimensional knowledge:

An interesting series of articles called the Survival of the Adaptive written by Professor Nitin Nohria of Harvard Business School looked at the many changes of the 21st century and how sales teams need to adapt to secure the new breed of customer. A decade ago, when traditional product-pushing sales were all that mattered, most sales leaders employed and trained well-motivated salespeople – usually with what they referred to as “industry experience”. Today that is hardly enough! Many of these sales leaders now confess to being less certain that industry experience or having articulate salespeople is the right formula. This is a big change. For decades sales management has been perfecting the productknowledge playbook. While some new sales techniques have from time to time been introduced (e.g. consultative selling, relationshipbased selling and networking) in the main salespeople have been (and are still) doing the same things in the same markets for decades, but with evidently diminishing returns. So, what is the solution? Sales managers should recognise that simply employing salespeople with industry experience and product knowledge isn’t enough; that providing product training alone simply perpetuates old habits; that salespeople with the “gift of the gab” just won’t cut it in a sophisticated market. What you will be left with is the same old people recycling within your industry dishing up the old sales ideas and with less results. Professor Nohria explains that what business leaders should be exploring is holistic development of their sales force that is driven by an effective, clear and well-articulated sales strategy. "For

1. Business acumen and commercial awareness – this is more critical than ever before as the complexity of businesses, markets and societies grows. 2. Knowledge of customer/client and prospects – knowing your client segments and what they really value is critical to developing the right sales messaging and delivering real value. It is important to gain an understanding of the values, beliefs and what is important to your client before you position your recommendations to them. 3. Knowledge of the market, competitors and the industry – keeping track of how markets shift and adapt to new technologies, ideas and issues that face us every day. Looking at disruptive technologies that can change the face of how we do business, live and survive are critical as eventually the most well-known businesses can disappear if they can’t adapt quickly enough. 4. Knowledge of the products, services and their application – our offerings are now only a part of the sale; what is even more important is knowing how our products and services support each other, and the need of the client is also critical in order to achieve a favourable outcome. This information will allow you to educate your client on the "why" your products and services will work for them. These are the foundations for strategic success. When the sales force has all of these dimensions and is using the knowledge to support clients, sales will improve.

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According to Professor Nohria industries would do well to refresh their sales gene pool regularly by gaining insight also from sales talent from outside their industry to help keep new ideas, innovations and opportunities circulating within the business.

Ref: http://www.hbs.edu/faculty/Pages/item.aspx?num=21634

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HOW TO AVOID INJURIES AND REACH LEADING TREATMENT OUTCOMES WITH YOUR IPL OR LASER TREATMENTS Angela Todd (nee Smith) is the Principal of Beauty Therapy Training Australia (BTTA) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A Registered Training Organisation based on the Gold Coast, dedicated to training to government-approved qualifications for all light-based therapies as well as other technologies and procedures in skin and age management. BTTA was one of the training providers in 2014 who delivered training for businesses under the government-approved funding project through the National Workforce Development Fund. This year BTTA was also selected to participate in the new government-funded initiative, this time under the Industry Skills Fund of which APAN was the consortium responsible for securing this funding. As all of this training is delivered to existing practitioners, many of which have been delivering treatments in laser or IPL for several years, we decided to interview Angie as to her observations. If you have never considered formalising your qualification, you may find these observations quite interesting.

APJ Q1: Angie, can you share with us some of your observations when delivering governmentapproved training to some of these candidates?

The two qualifications what we are delivering specific to IPL and Laser for the government-funded training are: * SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction This qualification covers aspects of both theory and practical as well as the face-to-face hours with regards licensing provision to the specific practice of hair reduction. It also includes not just the qualification, but also a nationally approved licence. * NAT10038 Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies On the other hand the NAT10038 covers specific areas of skin rejuvenation, vascular, pigmentation and tattoo removal. It also includes the appropriate licence and the nominal or indicative face-to-face hours pertaining to these practices, which are quite different to hair reduction. The problem with delivering everything together (skin rejuvenation and hair reduction) is that often when converting this information to practice without the appropriate supervision you may confuse some of the information and get it wrong. Once you have established a bad habit, unless it is picked up by a qualified trainer it is easy to continue doing the wrong thing.

Burnt by an experienced, but While many who are currently delivering not qualified operator. treatments in IPL or laser for hair It is amazing, but we are finding practitioners with up to 15 yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; reduction, skin rejuvenation, pigmentation or vascular conditions experience that are getting their settings and wavelengths incorrect, feel confident in their work, we are definitely discovering gaps in because they did not adequately understand their theory and were their skills. The key area that we are identifying is that many salons not required to demonstrate their competence. While some people were not using the correct wavelengths for the treatment they were may be fast learners, as a rule three days is not enough practical performing. For example, some salons were using acne filters for experience to reach competency, especially if you are doing skin hair reduction or skin rejuvenation. While in some instances rejuvenation, pigmentation treatments or vascular, not to also incorrect settings contributed to risk of burning, in other instances mention tattoo removal. the treatment was not effective. By identifying these errors and correcting them they were able to move forward more safely and The advantage of gaining a qualification is that you should be able to with better treatment outcomes. walk out and operate any machine through not just safe but also effective perimeters.

APJ Q2: Do you believe that a practitioner who has completed a Laser Safety Operator's licence still requires to complete a qualification?

APJ Q3: What if someone believes they are competent, do they still need a qualification?

While an LSO licence is important and beneficial, it predominantly deals with identifying safety perimeters with a level of understanding of light-based therapies. On the other hand, a qualification takes this knowledge further. The science is more indepth and great focus is also given to valuable knowledge that contributes to a greater understanding of successful treatment outcomes. While it is important not to burn a client, or cause injury, it is also important that you deliver a treatment result that meets with their expectations. While brief training courses of 1-3 days may deliver some knowledge, in my opinion it is a temporary measure, and cannot be compared to comprehensive training in both theory and practical that takes several months to complete.

With impending regulations in IPL and Laser it is advisable that you cover all your bases as legislation will require evidence of qualifications for the procedures you are doing as a minimum. If you believe that you are practising correctly then we invite you to contact us so that we can assess you through an RPL process. To do this we will measure your correct competence against the Elements in the Performance Criteria. If you are deemed competent you will be issued with a government-approved qualification. If we identify gaps in your skills and knowledge you will be required to complete supplementary training until you reach the appropriate standard. It is to your advantage to protect yourself and prepare for the future when government changes will be introduced.

If you speak to some insurance companies that process claims, not all are associated with burns, some are due to the client not being satisfied with the treatment outcome and seeking compensation.

For further information contact: BEAUTY THERAPY TRAINING AUSTRALIA on 07 5646 5583 or email contact@beautytherapytraining.com.au

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Lessons Learnt in 2015 VISION THAT BRINGS HOPE by Tina Viney As we come to the close of another year I can't help but look back to what we have achieved. However, this article is not so much about what happened, but more so about what has happened behind the scenes, the fears I had to overcome and what was the driving force that made me keep going despite all the odds. There is a certain amount of truth that if you want to successfully complete a house you need a well-executed plan or blueprint. It is the same with what we plan in our businesses. Often a successful strategy starts with a gut feeling or a desire that what you want can be had. This can also be defined as a vision – something out there that you believe would be wonderful to achieve.

advantage of new growth opportunities and move forward with greater confidence. Looking at the merit criteria was quite a scary experience. It was not going to be easy for us to meet the necessary requirements. I picked up the phone and discussed my desire to apply as a consortium on behalf of the industry with a senior representative at Service Skills Australia. They warned me not to pursue it as they felt the merit criteria was too difficult to meet. In fact, I was told that many who applied did not make it. This was wise advice and I seriously considered taking it. However, I had a inner inkling that I still should go for it. What could I lose? Apart from numerous hours of wasted time that got me nowhere, which was definitely a sore point. I possibly could also lose the opportunity to learn from a failed effort, or I could succeed. Weighing the odds I had to say that while the fear of failure weighed heavily on me – the possibility of securing the grant would be so exciting as I could help numerous businesses save thousands of dollars, while securing leading qualifications in IPL and Laser therapies. Was it worth the risk? Oh yes! And this is where vision comes into it.

Do not fear to hope ... Each time we smell the autumn’s dying scent, We know that primrose time will come again. Samuel Taylor Coleridge (1772-1834)

One of the milestones that we achieved this year was in securing the government funding for businesses to gain qualifications. This was something that I had a strong belief that the industry needed. How wonderful would it be if businesses could gain up to 75% of the fees of a government-approved qualification completely paid by the government – no paying back at a later date as with VET FEE Help – an outright gift from the Government to help them take

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The road ahead was not easy. I had to meet the specific requirements of the project merit criteria. So let's take a closer look at what was involved.

circumstances. We then had to readvertise to gain new applicants to fill in those that had dropped off. Additionally, our contract stated that we had to secure the FULL PAYMENT of their training, which would be refunded minus their deposit at the end of their training. As the course ranged from $7,500 to $16,500 these were large amounts that most businesses could not afford to pay up-front. By this time I felt I had failed and that I could not overcome this hurdle. I had put over nine months of work in the project, secured the funding and then failed as most people could not afford to pay the full amount rather than their deposit.

The Industry Skills Fund is a key element of the Australian Government’s strategy to boost business productivity and increase competitiveness across the economy. The fund aimed to provide over 250,000 training places and support services for industry. The Fund prioritised SMEs, including micro businesses, and was delivered through the Single Business Service, which streamlines access to essential information for all Australian businesses.

While fear gripped my heart again and caused me momentary panic the vision once again gave me hope. I had gotten this far not to fail at the last round. We put forward an alternative proposal to the Government, which was tabled in Canberra, and while they recognised our concerns they told us they could not change the rules at this stage. We either had to meet this requirement or we would lose the funding outright!

Now came the sticky bit. The funds would be prioritising businesses such as: Advanced Manufacturing, Food and Agribusiness, Medical technologies and Pharmaceuticals, Mining Equipment, Technology and Services, Oil, Gas and Energy Resources, Enabling Technologies and Services. Not exactly a smooth path for our industry. Where would we fit? Would our application be thrown out as being irrelevant to the Australian economy? While this criteria did intimidate me a great deal, I still had sufficient confidence that our industry has something positive to contribute to the Australian economy.

As this was now a financial issue that needed to be resolved, I turned to Vanessa Kirkham, who was our financial controller for this project. After studying the challenges carefully she came up with an genius plan that would allow us to meet with the Government's requirement.

THE POWER OF A VISION In my heart and mind I had a vision – to secure these funds for the industry. The burning desire and the vision of achieving this was stronger than the fear that I would fail. And it was the momentum of this vision that kept me on track when the going got tough – and it did.

I then examined some statistic in three specific areas - Skin Cancer, Diabetes and Obesity and Baby Boomers wishing to remain in the workforce. Our industry could provide consumer support in all these areas and also contribute to lowering the Government's financial burden in relation to these three sectors. While some may think we are fluff and powder puff, the new emerging industry sector that is utilising modern technologies can achieve some great services in support of all these areas. Our next step was to advertise the funding opportunity to the industry and secure applicants that meet their own merit criteria. This was a substantial body of work that included interviewing and ensuring that potential "beneficiaries", as they were classified, met their own merit criteria. There were numerous steps that we had to complete before submitting our application with the list and the legal information also of the beneficiaries. Following this we were interviewed twice by an Industry Skills Panel in Queensland. While they were impressed with out submission, they then questioned every point we put forward and requested that we provide hard evidence that would substantiate our claims on the various issues we raised. This was completed and forwarded to them the same day. Following this we were then questioned by a separate committee in Canberra. Further questions had to be answered.

We would request the deposit from the beneficiaries plus a refundable bond of 15%, which would be returned to them at the end of their training. This allowed us to recycle the bonds to meet with the Government's requirements for progressive payments. At this point we were able to move forward and secure the contract with the Government. As a result we were congratulated by two Federal Ministers who will be meeting with us to discuss how they can be of further help to us.

LESSONS LEARNT I share these events to draw attention to a few points. Most visionaries or entrepreneurs are known for being risk-takers.We jump in with both feet knowing we could fail. And when we do fail, it doesn’t keep us from jumping in with both feet again. There is no fear of failure. Failure just means we need to try something different. In today's financial climate owning your own business is not for the faint-hearted. You need to make friends with "fear" because this emotion will pop up frequently. While you need to weigh the risks and avoid un-calculated risks, you can never achieve breakthroughs unless you are prepared to seek ways to overcome obstacles when hurdles appear. In my experience vision is so important and such a valuable pursuit, because it gives you something to anchor your hopes on. When trouble comes, you keep looking to the vision as your ultimate goal. Don't allow obstacles to intimidate you – not for long anyway. Where there is a will there is a way. It is so amazing, but staying true to your heart and your vision will generate an environment when the solutions will come to you.

However, at long last one afternoon I received a phone call from my local Member of Parliament, Karen Andrews, who congratulated me that our application was successful and the Government was prepared to fund it. Together with the deposits which the candidates had to pay the project was worth over $750,000.

Whatever you do, don't ever give in to fear and give up on your dreams. You never know, your answer may be just around the corner. It worked for us and so many businesses have benefited for it.

At this point we were requested to re-interview every beneficiary and start again in gathering their required information. This was a huge task because many had submitted their applications back in January and February and we were now into September. It was not a surprise that some had dropped off due to changes in their

So if you are facing challenges, don't lose heart. Go back to your vision and your goals and gain momentum. Allow them to fuel you with hope, inspiration and excitement. In that positive environment it is amazing how creative ideas will show up. It is true that negative emotions only kill ideas, while positive emotion give rise to your creativity and make a way where there seems to be no way.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS the DNA report can provide a deeper look at the strengths and weaknesses of an individual's skin. The test she uses looks at the genetics behind five different factors: collagen formation, antioxidant protection, sun protection, glycation protection and sensitivity control.

IS THE SECRET OF BETTER SKIN IN YOUR DNA? When Beverly Galloway decided to work on her skincare regimen, she wanted a plan that was tailored just for her. "They took the swab, they sent it off to the lab and said you know we'll be in touch in several weeks when we get all the results back," she explained. “We're looking at something called single nucleotide polymorphisms," said Dr. Ruthie Harper, SKINSHIFT Founder. "They're the differences in one person's body's function versus the other.” Harper founded one of the major companies using DNA analysis for skincare. She says

"And that report is going to tell you specific information about high, medium and low priority areas of skin health and beauty so that you can make specific skincare decisions. The goal was to get faster results, better results, more cost effectively and with less trial and error," Harper explained. Dermatologist Dr. Sejal Shah also offers DNA testing to her patients. She believes personalisation is the future of skin and healthcare. "Skincare customisation is kind of where we're going and the DNA test just takes that to a whole other level. It just gives you a sort of guideline as to how you should be tailoring your skincare program," said Shah, with SmarterSkin Dermatology. But, not everyone is convinced DNA testing, which can range from $99 to $400 and up, is the key to fighting wrinkles, dark spots and more – at least right now.

"Rest assured that there is more similarities in our DNA than there are differences, and most of the products that you have available now will do just great for you even if you don't know your own specific DNA," explained dermatologist Dr. Doris Day, Clinical Associate Professor of Dermatology at NYU Langone Medical Centre. Shah acknowledges that as understanding of DNA gets better the technology will improve. But, she says, that's not a reason to skip the test altogether. "That's what you can use right now as a guideline," said Shah. "It's not to say that in 10 or 15 years we won't have more information and things will be better, but that's just how medicine and technology changes.”

Galloway is on board. She says she's changed her skincare routine since learning her results, and she's already seen improvement in her skin tone and texture. "It just feels healthier, which is important to me," she said. Doctors point out that of course the environment plays a big role in your skin health. For example, Shah says everyone should wear sunscreen. And, if you're in an environment with more pollution, you'll want to use products that provide antioxidant protection, even if a DNA test didn't identify that as a priority area. Ref: sdss@multibriefs.com

FDA Warns Against Injectable Skin-Lightening Products Injectable products that claim to lighten complexions, correct uneven skin tone, and clear up blemishes are potentially unsafe and ineffective, and might contain unknown harmful ingredients or contaminants, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) warns.

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The FDA has not approved any injectable drugs for skin whitening or lightening. “These products pose a potentially significant safety risk to consumers. You’re essentially injecting an unknown substance into your body – you don’t know what it

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contains or how it was made,” says In Kim, a pharmacist at FDA, in a news release. Beyond the potential harm from the product itself, improper or unsafe injection practices may transmit disease, cause infection and result in serious injury, the FDA warns. These products are marketed for injection into a vein or muscle or under the skin, and are sold online and in some retail outlets. “We have noticed a number of online companies marketing injectable products for skin whitening, and are concerned that these products and their ingredients may cause serious harm to consumers,” Kim says.

The products contain ingredients that can include glutathione, vitamin C, collagen, and even human placenta. In September 2014, US Marshals seized various unapproved and improperly labelled drug products sold and distributed by Flawless Beauty LLC at the request of FDA and the US Attorney’s Office for the District of New Jersey. Earlier that year, Flawless Beauty LLC voluntarily recalled multiple unapproved drugs. Despite a recall, the company continued marketing and distributing unapproved drugs, which prompted federal authorities to seek further enforcement action. The seized products include Relumins Advanced Glutathione kits and Tatiomax Glutathione Collagen If you have a strong family history of rosacea “more attention should be paid to environmental factors, and seeking medical advice can help quite a bit,” he said. “Lifestyle choices can definitely attenuate [reduce the severity of the] disease,” Popkin said, with use of sun protection his No. 1 recommendation.

THERE IS MORE TO ROSACEA THAN ENVIROMENTAL AND HEALTH ISSUES Millions of Australians may wonder what caused them to develop the chronic skin disease rosacea. New research suggests the reason is half environmental and half genetic according to research conducted in the US. On the environmental side, sun exposure is the key contributor. But obesity, alcohol and heart disease also appear to raise risk, the new study found. “Fifty-fifty is not a complete surprise in retrospect,” said study lead author Dr. Daniel Popkin. “But we just didn’t know.” “We now have strong evidence for the first time that there is clearly a genetic contribution,” said Popkin, an assistant Professor of Dermatology at Case Western Reserve University in Cleveland.

The National Rosacea Society estimates that more than 16 million Americans suffer from the disease. In Australia it was thought to affect approximately 5% of the population, but more recent studies establish prevalence at approximately 10%, with some specialists suggesting that the majority of more minor and moderate cases are never diagnosed, despite the benefits treatment bring. With rosacea, patients typically experience facial redness, bumps, pustules, visible blood vessels and watery eyes. Dermatological treatments, including skin medications and laser therapy, can help control flare-ups. But there is no actual cure. Uncontrolled, the disease can worsen and diminish someone’s quality of life. In surveys, more than nine in 10 patients have reported flagging self-confidence and selfesteem, the Rosacea Society says.

Results of a Trial Efforts to nail down the cause of rosacea have proven elusive. To get a better sense of the contributions of nature versus lifestyle, Popkin and his colleagues focused on 275 pairs of twins.

Whitening kits. “In general, consumers should be cautious of any product marketed online with exaggerated claims on safety and effectiveness,” Kim says. “They also should consult their healthcare practitioner before deciding to use any new product.” The FDA has also expressed safety concerns about noninjectable over-thecounter (OTC) skin-bleaching products containing ammoniated mercury. Ref: http://www.plasticsurgerypractice.com/20 15/09/fda-warns-injectable-skinlighteningTwins, the research team noted, are often the subject of genetic investigations, given the ability to compare identical pairs who share 100 percent of their genetic makeup with fraternal twins, who share half their makeup. In this case, 233 identical twin pairs and 42 fraternal twin pairs were selected. All were between 18 and 80 years old. All participants completed lifestyle and medical history surveys and underwent dermatological screening before receiving their rosacea “score”, which ranged from absent to severe. The investigators concluded that genetics appeared to contribute to 46 per cent of rosacea risk. The rest of the observed risk was attributed to greater lifetime sun exposure (UV radiation), older age, a higher body-mass index (an indicator of obesity), smoking, drinking, heart disease and/or skin cancer. The links with obesity and heart disease were a surprise, the researchers said. Popkin said his team plans to continue with their work. In the meantime, he stressed, “all of these findings are associations and we cannot prove causality.” Dr. Lawrence Eichenfield, chief of paediatric and adolescent dermatology at the University of California, San Diego, and Rady Children’s Hospital in San Diego, said you can reduce your risk of rosacea. “You can’t change your genetics without changing who your parents were, but you can [avoid smoking] and not get too much sun,” he said. “If you have signs of rosacea, or think you might, such as having a family history,” Eichenfield added, “get educated about it and consider moderating UV exposure, alcohol, and foods that might cause flushing.” For instance, doctors say eating spicy or sour foods can cause facial flushing and redness. The study findings were published recently in the Journal of the American Medical Association.

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or breastfeeding women and tea-tree oil is not for oral ingestion as oral poisoning in children and adults has been observed.3 1. The Review of Natural Products. 7th Edition. St. Louis: Wolters Kluwer Heath. 2012 2. Carson CF, Hammer KA, Riley TV. Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree oil): a review of antibacterial and other medicinal properties. Clin Microbiol Rev. 2006;19(1):50-62. 3. Pazyar N, Yaghoob R, Bagherani N. A review of applications of tea tree oil in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology. 2013; 52: 784-790 4. Dryden MS, Dailly S, Crouch M. A randomized, controlled trial of tea tree topical preparations versus a standard topical regimen for the clearance of MRSA colonization.. J Hosp Infect. 2004 Apr; 56(4):283-6 5. Hammer KA, Carson FC, Riley TV. In vitro activity of Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil against dermatophytes and other filamentous fungi. J Antimicrob. Chemother. 2002 Aug; 50(2): 195-9 6. Buck DS, Nidorf DM, Addino JG. Comparison of two topical preparations for the treatment of onychomycosis: Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil and clotrimazole. J Fam Pract. 1994 Jun; 38(6):601-5 7. Satchell AC, Saurajen A, Bell C, Barnestson RS. Treatment of interdigital tinea pedis with 25% and 50% tea tree oil solution: a randomized, placebo controlled, blinded study. Austalas J Dermatol. 2002 Aug;43(3):175-8 8. Enshaiieh S, Jooya A, Siadat AH, Iraji F. The efficacy of 5% topical tea tree oil gel in mild to moderate acne vulgaris: A randomized, double-blind placebocontrolled study. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol. 200; 73(1):22-25 9. Bassett IH, Pannowitz DL, Barnetson RS. A comparative study of tea-tree oil versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne. Med J Aust.1990;153(8):455-8 10. Knight TE, Hausen BM. Melaleuca oil (tea tree oil) dermatitis. J. Am Acad Dermatol. 1994; 30: 423-7 11. Markum E, Baille J. Combination of essential oil of Melaleuca alternifolia and iodine in the treatment of molluscum contagiosum in children. J. Drugs Dermatol. 2012 Mar; 11(3) 349-54 Ref: Dermatology Today

TEA-TREE OIL – WHAT IT CAN DO FOR YOUR CLIENTS Tea-tree oil is an essential oil that is obtained through steam distillation of the leaves of the native Australian coastal tree, Melaleuca alternifolia. M. alternifolia is an evergreen shrub with needle-like leaves that grows from 5 to 8 metres in height. Teatree oil has been used in a wide variety of medicinal applications from coughs and colds to skin infections.1 Relevant to dermatology, tea-tree oil can be found in over-the-counter soaps, astringents and shampoos and is typically added to these products for its antimicrobial properties.

infections such as bacterial and fungal conditions and molluscum as well as inflammatory conditions such as acne. A common “home remedy” patients will often ask about is whether or not there is a role for tea-tree oil in treating nail fungus. Now research confirms that tea-tree oil has been shown to have activity against dermatophytes, in vitro.5 And, in some studies, it has been shown to be clinically effective in treating onychomycosis and interdigital tinea pedis as compared to placebo.6,7

There have been a number of papers describing the antiseptic properties of tea tree oil, which has potential antibacterial activity through disruption of bacterial membranes.2 Terpin-4-ol is the component of tea-tree oil that is thought to exhibit the anti-microbial activity.3

In one study, topical tea-tree oil was shown to be superior to placebo in acne treatment.8 Another study compared tea-tree oil with benzoyl peroxide and found them to be similarly effective, but tea-tree oil was better tolerated by acne patients.9

Tea tree oil has also been shown to have antibacterial activity against methicillinresistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). One studied compared treatment with mupirocin 2% nasal ointment, chlorhexidine 4% soap and silver sulfadiazine 1% cream versus a tea-tree oil regimen that included a tea-tree 10% cream and tea-tree 5% body wash. There was no significant difference in efficacy between the two programs and both were shown to be effective against MRSA.4 Tea-tree containing products can be recommend to patients as adjunct treatments in MRSA therapy.

Fungus and acne Studies are available that show promising application for various dermatologic

Topical tea-tree oil and acne therapy

Factors to consider It is often hard to identify the concentration and purity of tea-tree oil in over-thecounter products so caution should be used in solely relying on these products for bacterial eradication. In addition, is important to counsel patients that tea-tree oil can be very irritating and a source of allergic contact dermatitis.10 It is thought that 1,8-cineole is likely the compound in tea-tree oil that causes dermatitis. Because tea-tree oil may have an irritant effect it is also worth considering for the treatment of molluscum contagiosum.11 Patients should be counselled to use tea tree with caution given the rate of irritant and contact dermatitis. In addition, it should be used with caution in children and pregnant

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NUMBER OF MEN OVER 40 SEEKING COSMETIC TREATMENTS ON THE RISE, EXPERTS SAY

Fathers of the brides are another group interested in enhancing their looks, spurred on by their wives and the cost built into the wedding budget. What’s more, because there are many new minimally or noninvasive treatments that don’t leave scars, it’s a more attractive option for men, Day said.

Are you catering for male clients in your clinic or salon? If not, perhaps you should reconsider. More men than ever before are booking to have skincare treatments, buying skincare products and “manscaping.. Now, experts say there’s been a surge in the number of men between 40 and 70 years old who are making their way also into the dermatologist’s office for cosmetic treatments too. In fact, men underwent more than one million non-surgical treatments such as Botox, photo rejuvenation and fat reduction in 2014, a report from the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery found. Plus, the number of cosmetic treatments for men increased 273 percent since 1997. In Australia there are no formal exact statistics, however, according to several societies the number of men seeking cosmetic and surgical services is definitely on the rise. According to Dr. Ellen Marmur, a boardcertified dermatologist based in New York City, out of more than 17,000 of her patients, the top10 who spend the most are men who have regular cosmetics treatments. When undergoing cosmetic procedures, some women don’t want their husbands to know and some are worried about what others will think or about looking unnatural. For men, the worry seems to be more about side-effects and less about what their wives think. “Their wives are already convinced of the benefits half the time. It’s their wives who

Botox and fillers and rejuvenation

sent them in.” Marmur, who is also an associate clinical professor in the Department of Dermatology and the Department of Genetics and Genomic research at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai in New York City, said.

Typically, a woman may have several appointments to make subtle treatments. Men, however, usually get treatments less frequently, but accomplish more each time. Marmur calls it the “executive approach”, fillers, a skin-tightening treatment and Botox once a year. Then every six months, Botox again; women typically come back every three to four months when it wears off.

Just as many women search for the eternal fountain of youth, a large group of men who opt for cosmetic treatments are executives who see it as a necessity to keep their edge.

“The aesthetics of rejuvenation is very different for men than for women,” Day said. Instead of a completely wrinkle-free look, treatments can tighten and give a lift so men will look masculine. Fillers can square off the jawline, build out the chin and reduce the jowls. “That gives them a much stronger, powerful, confident look,” she said.

“Men do things to look better because they’re competing in a younger job market,” said Dr. Doris Day, a boardcertified dermatologist in New York City and author of Forget the Facelift: Turn B a c k t h e C l o c k w i t h D r. D a y ’s Revolutionary Four-Step Program for Ageless Skin.

Treatments for sun damage, brown spots and fat reduction in the torso and chin are also popular, as are those that help healthy, but gaunt, men look good. “We can rebalance and give them back volume in a very masculine, healthy, natural and handsome way without making them look ‘done’,” Day said.

A stronger jawline and job security

SCIENTISTS DISCOVER CLEAR ALTERNATIVE TO OPAQUE MINERAL SUNSCREEN Skin experts and dermatologists around the world all recommend wearing sunscreen as their number one beauty tip, but recently we’ve discovered that not all sunscreens are created equal: In our pursuit to avoid damage, some studies claim that ingredients in chemical sunscreens can seep into our skin and possibly enter our bloodstream. Consequently, frequent and consistent applications of these everyday sunscreens have been linked with hormonal side-effects and possibly certain kinds of skin cancer.

As a result, there has been a rise in mineral sunscreen usage. The big drawbacks? Physical sunscreens tend to rub off easily (especially when wet) and often leave behind a white residue. But on September 28, a team of researchers at Yale University published a study in Nature Materials journal, claiming that they have developed a new sunblock made of bioadhesive nanoparticles (very small particles) that stay on the surface of the skin, and doesn’t give you a milky residue. According to the study, tests also showed that the sunblock

stayed on the skin days after initial application, though it can be removed entirely with vigorous rubbing. “Nanoparticles are large enough to keep from going through the skin’s surface, and our nanoparticles are so adhesive that they don’t even go into hair follicles, which are relatively open,” Mark Saltzman, the Goizueta Foundation Professor of Biomedical Engineering and the paper’s senior author, explained in a press release.

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exposure that the rats got,” Shah clarified. “There have been lab and animal studies conducted, but there’s nothing on humans.” Saltzman stated that before the Yale team’s sunblock formulation hits the market it’ll be tested on humans.

Sejal Shah, MD, a Manhattan-based dermatologist, said that sunscreens, mineral and non-mineral, are heavily regulated by the FDA, which means that they’re very safe. But according to the Environmental Working Group, common sunscreen ingredient oxybenzone can cause reproductive toxicity, endocrine disruption, allergies, and organ system failure. Shah says the 2011 study that linked oxybenzone to harmful effects was performed on immature female rats that ingested the organic compound. “A followup study showed that it would take 200 years of daily application to get the

For those who prefer these supposedly healthier mineral sunscreens, you’ll have to deal with the active ingredients like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide in their formulations remaining opaque on the skin and potentially clumping up or rubbing off when you break a sweat. “The opaqueness is necessary to block out visible light,” Saltzman explains. “The physical mineral, or oxide, scatters and defects light.” The Yale team’s sunblock avoided this issue by using nanoparticles to encase an active ingredient and hydrophobic chemical called padimate O, which is used in many commercial sunscreens. They tested their studies by placing strips of adhesive tape to mice skin that had been prior treated with one of two types of

sunscreen: The Yale team’s and a commercial brand. Upon ripping off the tape, the sunscreen and a thin layer of skin were removed. The researchers kept repeating this procedure in order to penetrate the outer layers of skin, measuring how deep into skin the chemicals had seeped. Turns out there were traces of the chemicals from the commercial sunscreen soaked deep within the skin. The Yale team’s sunscreen came off completely with the adhesive tape. “Commercial chemical sunblock is protective against the direct hazards of ultraviolet damage of DNA, but might not be against the indirect ones,” Michael Girardi, MD, a professor of dermatology at Yale Medical School and a co-author of the paper, explains in a press statement. “In fact, the indirect damage was worse when we used the commercial sunblock.” Shah disputes the claims of damage done: “There was a study where humans applied three times as much sunscreen daily for a week, and the active ingredient was found in the urine, but that means it was never absorbed into the body and there wasn’t any hormonal disruption,” she explains. “Current sunscreens on the market already work very well and safely.” Ref: sdss@multibriefs.com

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salonbusiness

How to Recruit, Induct and Keep the RIGHT EMPLOYEE by Caroline Nelson Just when you think everything is going along fine you hear those dreaded words “I want to hand in my notice”. These words are known to send shivers down the spine of business owners, create untold stress and contribute to many sleepless nights. Realistically, it is not always easy to find the right person for a position – one who has the personality and characteristics to make an excellent employee and the skills, abilities, and commitment to be a financial asset to your business. However, there are gems out there and ‘diamonds in the rough’, either of which could make the right employee for your business. You just need to find them.

RECRUITING Finding the right employee needs preparation and planning. Something you may not have time for if unexpectedly you have lost a staff member with little or no notice. Therefore I would advise doing some ‘risk management’ preparations beforehand so that you have the processes in place that will allow you to find the right person for a position should the need arise.

One of your biggest assets is your employees, so careful consideration must be taken in the selection process. Select slowly and hire carefully. Make a list of what you are looking for in a person. Not only on a professional basis, but also in terms of their ‘people skills’ and the ability to work in a team environment. At the first interview share the Vision, Mission Statement and Unique Business Culture of the business. Gauge their reaction; body language speaks volumes. Explain your full expectations in relation to the targets or budgets they would be required to achieve; your training program and the commitment they would need to give to advancing their knowledge and skills. Also, check their references. Did you know that over 80% of business owners do not check references? Think back, when was the last time you were asked for a reference? The team member your business wants is someone with a glowing past history. This should be reflected and confirmed by a past employer's personal references. At the end of the day you want to form a trustworthy team who will support each other based on values, mutual respect, integrity and professional ability.

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Once you have made the decision on the suitable recruit, like most business owners you will be hoping the new employee “hits the ground running” to become as soon as possible a productive and valuable member of your team. But realistically this will only happen if you take the time and make the effort to induct and train them correctly into the requirements of the position. After all, there is a lot to learn when starting a new job and the transition from newcomer to productive team member can be very much eased with the benefit of induction training. Many small business owners do not think it necessary to conduct formal induction training. They believe that ‘on the job’ training should be sufficient, but in my view this is very short- sighted. How you introduce them to your salon, spa, or clinic will give them a real sense of belonging, and foster an enthusiasm and confidence for the job as well as encourage commitment and loyalty for you and the business. In addition, it ensures they will settle in quickly and happily take on a productive role. Retaining good staff in this industry is a constant battle, so if you can make them feel comfortable from the word go you have a much better chance of retaining them for the long term. There are numerous reasons why induction is important. If the new employee gets off to a bad start they may never fully understand their place and role in the organisation. This in turn can lead to poor integration into the team and the newcomer feeling like an outsider. Without the help and support of other team members, or feeling unable to ask for assistance because of the fear of being ignored, they go it alone. Often this leads to uncertainty on the part of the employee, and when this is picked up by the client it contributes to an undesirable outcome for them and is often the main reason why many clients fail to rebook or ever return.

tool, staff-performance appraisals are essential for the individual employee, crucial to a high level of job satisfaction and for the strength-building of the organisation.

RETAINING Recruiting, inducting and training the right person for a job is both costly and time-consuming so you want to get value out of the process retaining employees for the long term. By sharing the Vision, Mission Statement and Unique Business Culture of the business you will have engaged the employee in the ‘Big Picture”. This will give them a clear understanding of what your business stands for and the important part they play. Keeping people engaged means keeping them informed, so communicate well and often. However, you also need to get to know your employees; what makes them tick; what motivates them and what do they need to deliver their “personal best”. In general terms, bringing out the best in your employees will entail good strong leadership, being constant, providing good resources and training them to realise their potential. I hope this information has been helpful so that you are prepared for the if and when one of your key players decides to leave. Planning ahead will certainly give you the best chance of finding and keeping your employees for the long term.

Induction includes a process of ‘orientation’, a specific training that all new starters attend. The length of the induction depends on the complexity of the job and the qualifications and background of the new employee. While it goes without saying that a new graduate will need a more extensive induction period, it does not mean that seasoned therapists need not be inducted. While one size does not fit all, certain aspects of the induction can be standardised, with additional training available where the need is necessary.

CONDUCTING THE INDUCTION Plan the induction day/s so it can be both productive and instructive using your Salon Spa Staff Policies Procedures and Systems manual as the benchmarking tool. This becomes the “bible” of how you want all employees to conduct themselves while representing your business. It provides guidelines to each member of the team to cover every day situations they will encounter on the job. If you don’t have your own Salon Spa Staff Policies Procedures and Systems Manual and are relying on the odd piece of paper stuck to the staff room wall you will find it very hard to provide a quality induction. As an employer it is your right to expect your employees to conform to an acceptable standard of conduct, but it is also your responsibility to convey this standard in a clearly understood way. Never assume that your employee will have the same set of standards or point of view as you. If you do assume this you will quickly find your other employees, yourself and clients will be disappointed and unhappy. Formal documentation of standards, policies, procedures and systems must be in the written form, and on completion of the training the inductee must sign off that they have received, understood and will follow all directives. While the induction process will have your new employee off to a good start, you will still need to monitor their progress. This is why regular staffperformance appraising should be conducted to help you identify both strengths and weaknesses, thus enabling you to establish a training program for the individual as well as the team as a whole. Use training and development activities to ensure that you optimise the employee’s job skills which will motivate and improve potential retention. As an ongoing business

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry specific business coach specialising in helping salon and spa owners to operate super successful businesses. Her Salon Spa Staff Policies Systems Manual is recognised as the “industry bible” and one of the most important tools any salon or spa business owner can implement into their business.

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To find out more about Caroline’s business tools and coaching please contact her on: 0410 600 440 or check her website www.SalonSpaBusiness.com

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APAN ENDS THE YEAR WITH ANOTHER SUCCESSFUL CONFERENCE Melbourne greeted us with a glorious sunny day as APAN staged its last conference for the year at the Pullman Hotel at Albert Park. The theme that ran throughout the conference program highlighted various elements of transitional changes that are redefining the aesthetics industry and extending its boarders to accommodate growth and new business possibilities. In her opening presentation Tina Viney challenged industry professionals and businesses alike to take ownership and responsibility of their professional standards for the services they are currently practicing or wish to include in the future. "There are a lot of mixed messages out there â&#x20AC;&#x201C; will regulations come through or will they not, is a common concern", Tina said. "Based on my involvement with the whole process of regulations, I believe that regulations will soon become a reality, not just for IPL and Laser, but we will also see changes with Health Regulations in the very near future. It therefore pays to be prepared", Tina stressed. â&#x20AC;&#x153;As a practitioner what you need to ask yourself is, will I benefit from gaining a qualification in what I am practicing? Can I demonstrate to my clients and potential clients that I am not waiting for regulations to come because I am committed to best practice. Therefore, if there is a qualification for what I am doing, I will gain it for the benefit of my reputation and for the benefit of my client."

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"As professionals we should not have to wait to be forced by regulations to gain qualifications for what we are doing. We should choose to do so, by our own free will", she concluded. For experienced practitioners APAN recommends that a reputable Registered Training Organisation be approached for Recognition of Prior Learning assessment in order to secure a qualification. "This process will assess your skills against the elements of competency and if no skills gaps are identified, then a relevant qualification will be issued. If you do have skills gaps, then you will need to complete those units." Lynette Rouse and Jeshua Madden covered a combined presentation. Lynette spoke on the role of Core Values in establishing and growing your brand. She stressed the importance for businesses to build on a solid foundation that consistently reflects who they are through messages that with gain the respect and trust of consumers and choose to remain loyal to their business. Jeshua discussed various social media platforms, their unique niches and how they can benefit a business in achieving growth. G a y Wa r d l e p r e s e n t e d information on advanced procedures and moved also into

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various types of fillers and how they work. She stressed why aesthetic therapists need to be knowledgeable in not just what they perform, but also services they will be referring their clients to. Gay also covered the various transitional elements that the aesthetics industry is evolving into and stressed how the future of the industry will require that dermal and aesthetic therapists be part of healthcare providers. Chris Testa introduced the topic of anaesthetics from a historical and clinical perspective. He discussed the various types of anaesthetics and why practitioners need to understand their characteristics, how they are metabolised in the body and risks and safe practices. The afternoon followed with an interactive presentation when Tina interviewed Maureen Houssein-Mustafa on her illustrious career journey and the numerous awards she has won include the OMA (Order of the Medal of Australia) which was presented to her in 2010. This was very much a heartto-heart session that proved to be highly inspirational as Maureen shared the successes as well as the challenges that she had to face throughout her business life. She impressed delegates with her candidness about the good, the bad and the ugly, including recent conspiracies and attacks from a past employee with a l l e g a t i o n s o f misappropriation of funds with students who did not complete their training. Tina was presented with a letter from ASQA - the N a t i o n a l R e g u l a t o r, c o nf irming that thes e allegations were investigated thoroughly, however, no evidence was found to substantiate them. Tina went on to say, "It is a privilege and an honour to vindicate Maureen HousseinMustafa's reputation. As a Standards Body one of APAN's core values is integrity and it is our responsibility to investigate the credibility of our members. As such, we are happy to vouch for Maureen's integrity."

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The conference program was completed with Mark Viney's lecture on everything you need to know about hiring and working with the GenY age group. He expounded on how to understand their mindset and presented comparisons between various age groups and how their ideologies differ. This session was extremely well received as it gave many business owners a better understanding on ways to communicate and gain the collaboration of their staff members that fall within this age group.

Moving forward, APAN will continue in 2016 to host three more conferences. Mark these dates in your diary: ! Brisbane 29th May ! Sydney 26th June ! Perth 23rd October Please plan to be there as new and exciting updates will be launched. For further details visit our website www.apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360.

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ingredientinvestigation

PARABENS: Why eat it, but not want it on your skin? by Terry Everitt The misinformation regarding parabens just won’t go away. I have previously written about parabens a few years ago and remain constantly surprised that many are rehashing the myths that surround parabens as a preservative ingredient. First, I want to say that parabens are safe in product use and second, there seems to be no problem with those who are so against it, being happy enough to be eating relatively large amounts of it. This I always thought a bit weird that some are so against putting a little paraben on their skin yet happily eat loads of it, but more about that later in this article. The big thing about paraben haters is that they believe that parabens will cause cancer, particularly breast cancer; even if that has never been proven. While parabens have been used for many decades, the scare story perhaps starts in 1988, when Routledge et al published a paper that showed parabens had ‘oestrogen like’ properties. This study was on mice and a weak form of oestrogen was noted. However, this is very different to humans. The real scare-mongering started from the media attention of a study in 2004 by Dabre et al. This study found that parabens were found in breast tissue with females with breast cancer. The media, it appears, immediately decided to misrepresent the study and claim that parabens cause breast cancer. This was the headline and the media did not bother to actually read the complete study to know that this was not claimed by the study researchers. The study relied on a small sample size – 20 women who already had breast cancer. No controls were used to compare, the paraben source was not identified, normal breast tissue was not studied to determine comparative data and no other parts of the body were studied. In fact, the study’s lead investigator, Phillipa Dabre, wrote in the

same Journal of Applied Toxicology, later in the year and stated,“…Nowhere in the manuscript was any claim made that the presence of parabens had caused the breast cancer, indeed the measurement of a compound in a tissue cannot provide evidence of causality…” and went on to say: "There is no proven link with breast cancer either of parabens or any personal care product.” Philippa D. Darbe, M.D., is no fool. She is a well-renowned leader in oncology, School of Biological Sciences, Biomedical and Pharmaceutical Sciences at the University of Reading, England. There are many different types of parabens, with the most common being methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben andbutylparaben. With a simple Medline search, it appears that there have been more than 65 studies by independent scientists showing that there are no adverse effects from exposure to parabens (at much higher doses than those found in cosmetics). In the USA, two groups, the Environmental Working Group and Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, have done much to reinforce and perpetuate the erroneous findings regarding parabens. On the other hand, the Food and Drug Administration has received 110 studies and confirmed that they are safe for use in cosmetics. Some cosmetic companies make a point of calling their products “paraben-free”, even when they know better. As to the why do they do that, the answer is simply that consumers demand and expect it due to the misinformation that surrounds the preservative. It’s simply a business decision to ‘go with the flow’ and surrender to public hysteria, rather than taking the time and energy in defending such an ingredient. In the scientific and cosmetic chemistry community it is well established that parabens are more effective and far more reliable than many of the preservatives now in use trying to replace parabens.

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Published papers from government agencies in the United States, Canada, Europe, Asia and Australia all state that the small amounts present in personal-care products do not pose a health risk. It is also known that parabens are fully metabolised before they enter the bloodstream, which is more than can be said for natural plant extracts with oestrogenic activity. One point you need to know is that in toxicity studies, chemicals are tested at very high concentrations. The goal of these studies is to give enough of a substance to cause death or harm to the test subject. At an extremely high dose, nearly all chemicals are toxic. Even water is toxic if too much is ingested. It is also true that the high dosage in lab rats is nowhere near what a human could ever possibly be exposed to.

ARE THEY ENDOCRINE DISRUPTORS? The concern about parabens is over their potential to be endocrine disruptors. Phytoestrogens are found in more than 300 food and cosmetic ingredients. For example, parabens are naturally found in soy products, flaxseed, sunflower, sesame, garlic, green tea, tomatoes, oats, barley, buckwheat, and many other common plant foods that we take for granted. Phytoestrogens mimic human estrogens, but are not as strong. They are approximately 400 times weaker than human estrogens. In comparison, parabens are 100,000 times weaker than human estrogens. To have any estrogenic effect in humans, it would need at least 25,000 times the dosage that is used in cosmetics, which in total is under 1% of the total product. Golden, Gandy and Vollmer (2005) observed that if consumers were to use cosmetics containing butylparaben(BP) every day, the total daily BP dose would be approximately 0.12 – 0.41 mg/kg/day. This corresponds to a BP daily intake of between 1,500 and 5,000 times less than the minimal amount shown in an in vivo assay to stimulate estrogen activity. Ishiwatari et al (2007) found that parabens are considered safe preservatives because after penetrating the SC they are converted by carboxylesterases into p-hydroxy benzoic acid (HBA). The authors found that only 0.028% of methylparaben was found to remain unmetabolised on the skin surface 12 hours after application. Chemically, parabens are the esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, itself a phenolic derivative of benzoic acid. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives are commonly found in various vegetable foods such as barley, strawberries, blackcurrants, peaches, carrots, onions, cocoa-beans, vanilla; further in foods prepared from fruit plants such as grapes and fruit juices, yeast extract, wine vinegar and also in cheeses.

Since that time they have revisited the subject many times, the most recent in 2012, and again found parabens sage in the amounts used in skincare products. In USA, the Food and Drug Administration has looked at parabens over the years and their most recent finding is that “at the present time there is no reason for consumers to be concerned about the use of cosmetics containing parabens”. In Australia the National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme (NICNAS) regulates cosmetic ingredients, not the Therapeutic Goods Administration, and on the NICNAS website their information regarding parabens is: The opinion on the Safety Evaluation of Parabens released by the SCCP in 2005 states that, based on acute and chronic toxicity studies in rats, dogs and mice, parabens have been proven to be practically non-toxic, not carcinogenic, not genotoxic nor co-carcinogenic and not teratogenic. Recent claims that parabens present in deodorants and antiperspirants may cause breast cancer has not been substantiated. Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists Position Paper, Preservatives Used in Personal Care Products, dated 14th January 2011 states: “At this stage, and despite many studies, no regulatory authority has made any attempt to limit the use of parabens in cosmetics or foods, citing their benefits and lack of adverse findings. Recent evidence also shows that while parabens may have weak estrogenic activity, this activity is short lived and the degradation products do not show this effect.” The expectation of long shelf lives and microorganism-free consumer products mandates the use of preservatives. Parabens have been used for over 80 years and, despite reports of adverse reactions, they have proven to be among the safest and most well tolerated preservatives. References: Dabre, P., Aljarrah, A., Miller, W., Coldham, N., Sauer,M., Pope, G., (2004) Concentrations of parabens in human breast tumours, Journal of Applied Toxicology, 24, 5–13. Ishiwatari, S., Suzuki, T., Hitomi, T., Yoshino, T.,Matsukuma,S., Tsuji, T., (2007) Effects of methyl-paraben on skin keratinocytes, Journal of Applied Toxicology, 27, (1) 1–9. Golden, R., Gandy, J., Vollmer, G., (2005), A review of the endocrine activity of parabens and implications for potential risks to human health, Critical Review of Toxicology, 35, (5) 435–458. Routledge, E., et al, (1988), Some alkyl hydroxyl benzoate preservatives (parabens) are estrogenic, Toxicology and Applied Pharmacology, 153 1219.

From the above list, it is reasonable to state that parabens are in fact natural, being found in so many different types of foods – most of which are very much part of the ‘healthy’ person's diet – the same who are so anti- parabens in skin care, consume much more internally that they could ever get on their skin.

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It is outside the scope of this article to counter all of the perceived harmful effects and the misquoted ‘scientific’ studies used to discredit parabens.

STUDIES CONTINUE TO CONFIRM THEIR SAFETY

USA Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) first reviewed parabens and determined that they were safe for use in 1984.

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

"They go into a place that is promising them a rapid scar-free treatment, but it's not," he said. There certainly is a risk of infection. When this happens in non-medical hands there's likely to be treatment delays, with risk of things like septicaemia. It leaves them with a scar outline of their tattoo, or hyperpigmentation outline of their tattoo, and they're allowed to get away with this misrepresentation on the internet.”

HEALTH WARNING ISSUED AGAINST ACID TATTOO REMOVAL IN QUEENSLAND Queensland's chief health officer, Dr Jeannette Young, has warned of serious complications from acid tattoo removal and says new laws may be needed to regulate the technique. One of the latest removal treatments in Queensland involved using an acid-based solution, which was marketed as quicker and more effective. However, health authorities were concerned the invasive treatment could be dangerous. Dr Philip Bekhor, one of the country's leading dermatologists, said the technique was called acid de-tattooing. "It involves using a tattoo needle – instead of tattooing in pigment, they tattoo in an acid," he said. Tattoo removalist Natalie Hempel was the only person contacted by ABC TV's 7.30 Queensland who was willing to talk about the technique on camera. Ms Hempel is a visiting therapist registered with several councils and is licensed to penetrate the skin. "When you're abrading the skin and you're going into the tattoo pigment, it flushes and helps flush the ink and brings it to the surface," she said. "When the scabs fall off, the scabs are full of the tattoo colour, and when they fall off they take all the ink with it." But this form of removal has recently come to the attention of Queensland Health. Dr Young said she was aware there had been people who developed severe burns and scarring. "My issue is that we have heard of some serious complications because of it," Dr Young said. "There have been other people who have developed infections, there's also been risks of altering the pigmentation of the skin. It is concerning - I understand that the Health Ombudsman's had a number of complaints." Dermatologist Dr Bekhor used lasers for decades to de-ink people and said that remained the safest option.

Dr Bekhor said the problem with the technique was that it damages tissue. "It tends to leave some kind of scarring or marking and the potential is there for secondary infection," he said. "There certainly is a risk of infection and what worries me – when this happens in non-medical hands, instead of the infection being properly recognised and treated, there's likely to be treatment delays, with risk of things like septicaemia that can happen when a skin infection isn't managed properly.”

Unregulated industry for acid tattoo removal To operate a class four laser removal unit in Queensland people needed a licence, but there was no such requirement for acid tattoo removal and there was no official level of training. Dr Bekhor said dermatologists were warning the Queensland Government would face serious problems if rules were not put in place. "I'm extremely concerned in the States that have no regulation and the amount of commercial interest," he said. I'll be completely honest that this whole industry is so unregulated, the reason that this is happening is not because of the machines, the problem is the operators that are using the machines.” Natalie Hempel, tattoo removalist, said "People who might have been carpenters or whatever that come into fields that are providing invasive treatments with nobody scrutinising them and more importantly, nobody recording complication rates. I think it really is the time for the Government to step in.” Laser tattoo removalist Fawne Merry said she had treated clients who had been scarred by the acid technique. "What you generally find is the scarring is in rings, because they do this treatment in circles and they don't treat the whole tattoo in one session, so therefore you're finding that it's actually circles throughout the tattoo," she said. "It's very hard to believe anyone could be operating this type of machine and things like that without any kind of regulatory body within Australia.”

Creating a bad name for the industry

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But Ms Hempel said bad laser could also cause scarring and it was not the technique that was the problem, but it was unlicensed and untrained operators. Ms Hempel agreed there needed to be reform.

"They are making a bad name for the industry and if the Government doesn't do something to start some sort of regulation, it's probably going to get worse and there will be more scarring and more people buying these machines when they shouldn't be," she said.

Tattoo salon employee Celena Pelly said she was getting one of her 0

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own tattoos removed using a lactic acid-based solution because she thought it would be quicker and less painful than laser. She has had two treatments and would need about three more. "I just actually don't like the colour any more, I don't like where it is, so I'm getting it removed and I'm actually getting another one done," she said. "It's not painful at all – it's just a scratchy feeling – it's almost relaxing.” Dr Young said new laws might be needed, but as the industry

continued to make its mark, it was hard to keep up. "I believe it is an area that we need to look at both in Queensland and of course across the country," she said. “There's no requirement for people to be licensed to perform the procedures so we're really not sure how often it's happening."

IMPORTANT MECHANISM FOR SKIN PROTECTION DISCOVERED German company Beiersdorf manufacturers of personal care products such as Nivea and La Prairie, have made a new cell metabolism discovery that they believe will aid anti-ageing developments. Skin cells can protect themselves against stress even faster and more holistically than previously thought. Beiersdorf researchers Dr. Janosch Hildebrand and Dr. Marc Winnefeld succeed in proving the existence of this important mechanism together with cooperation partners from the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology in Zurich (ETH). The results of the four-year research project have been published in Molecular Cell – one of the most highly renowned scientific journals for cell biology.

Skin Cells Benefit from their Metabolism “The question of our research project was: How do skin cells use the metabolism to protect themselves against UV-induced or oxidative stress?” says Project Manager Janosch Hildebrand. “We discovered a previously unknown mechanism: the ‘First Line Response’. It enables skin cells to counteract stress caused by, for example, solar radiation or oxidative stress within minutes.” This mechanism is important because it delivers key molecules to the cell which are needed for acute detoxification and repair. In order to understand this mechanism and to holistically analyse skin metabolism, the scientists used a new metabolomics technology that enables them to examine over 800 metabolites simultaneously.

New Technology Combines Skin Biology and Computational Science

were also used,” says Marc Winnefeld, Head of the Lab for Special and Aged Skin. “By using these techniques we were able to investigate the complex relationships between biological processes like metabolic pathways and repair mechanisms. Here, we were able to analyse big data sets by combining biology and computational science. “We are really happy about the fruitful collaboration with ETH Zurich,” says Marc Winnefeld. “This kind of demanding analysis is only possible through the expertise of external partners. With this dedicated and trustful open-innovation approach, Beiersdorf has always succeeded in working with excellent scientists from renowned institutes.”

High-Level Publication in Scientific Journal Molecular Cell The publication of the results of the research project in the scientific journal Molecular Cell is a great honour for the research team, “This journal is one of the most prestigious in this discipline,” says Winnefeld. “And the journey continues: the project results will be used to develop new strategies to protect skin cells against stress and to treat environmentally induced skin ageing.”

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“In addition to the new technology, systems biology analysis tools

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The Plus Size Movement Part 2 In the previous issue of APJ Issue 26 we featured an article by Louisa McKay from Costhetics on the positive and negative attitudes about weight. In this article Louisa continues with stories from the real world, where “real” is more fake than you think. Making fun of overweight people remains as one of the last acceptable forms of bigotry at a time when political correctness has put an end to jokes based on gender, sexual orientation, and race. There’s The Biggest Loser, More to Love, and don’t forget Dance Your Ass Off. Even with such provocative titles, these are some of the more innocuous examples. It seems that everywhere you turn these days, whether it be reality shows, movies, YouTube, television ads or news reports, an obese person is being ridiculed.

Evidence that Even “Real Women” Aren’t Real Even as the fashion industry embraces a woman’s curves, it is not yet ready to accept real curves. The Daily Mail recent published these photos of plus-sized model Katie Green that stirred controversy.

Unfortunately, “fat as entertainment” has an unfavourable impact on public perceptions about obese people. Whether it’s in the toxic insults of anonymous social media trolls, the kneeslapping jokes of mainstream comedians, the advertising campaigns of giant business corporations or the editorial decisions of fashion designers and magazines, you don’t have to look far to find examples that remind us why a plus sizeacceptance movement is necessary.

Green is a size 12, but is “plumped up” to become more like the average UK woman who is a size 16:

• 1-1/2 inches thick oval foam pads are slipped inside long control shorts to fill out her bottom and hips in order to emphasize her waist.

The Cool Kids vs. the Fat Kids at Abercrombie and Fitch

• Silicone breast enhancers (known as “chicken fillets”) are slipped inside her bra to boost her bust.

One of the most egregious examples of fat shaming in the fashion world was found at teen retailer Abercrombie & Fitch. Under the leadership of CEO Mike Jeffries, the global trendsetter refused to stock XL and XXL sizes because he doesn’t want larger people shopping in his store, he wants thin and beautiful people. He doesn't want his core customers to see people who aren't cool wearing his clothing.

Where’s the empowerment in that? It would appear that even as the fashion industry embraces a woman’s curves, it is not yet ready to accept real curves. Article submitted by Louisa McKay, Costhetic. For more information please call Gina Fink at Savage PR on 0414 383 917 or email gina@savagepr.com.au

Many cheered when Jeffries was stripped of his chairmanship when the company bowed to pressure from activist investors. Six months later the company capitulated and announced plus sizes would soon be on offer.

ASQA INCREASES STANDARDS FOR RTO COMPLIANCE REQUIREMENTS As the Australian beauty and aesthetics industry sectors prepares for more stringent regulator measures, other departments, such as the statutory authority the Australian Skills Quality Authority (ASQA) which is responsible for providing registration for colleges to become Registered Training Organisations, are also taking stringent measure in auditing training providers. Recently they finalised an annual report, which was recently tabled in Parliament. Chris Robinson, Chief Commissioner and Chief Executive Officer of ASQA, released a report stating some key statistics about ASQA's regulatory activity between 1 July 2014 and 30 June 2015. The report indicated the following:

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issued 158 written notices of intention to cancel/suspend registration

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issued 17 other administrative sanctions

rejected 25 (9.2%) applications from organisations seeking initial registration as a new provider, and

finalised almost 1,400 audit activities made 27 decisions to cancel registration made 54 decisions to suspend registration

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rejected 25 (3.2%) applications to renew provider registration.

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These statistics demonstrate that ASQA takes the task of regulating the vocational education and training sector very seriously and that it is willing to use the powers available to it against those providers that do not comply with the legislation and required standards.

“The new Standards included more detail about assessment, new requirements for trainers and assessors, clearer and more detailed requirements around marketing and new validation and certificate of compliance requirements,” he said.

During the four years since ASQA was established it has:

“Since the new Standards were announced late last year, ASQA has published a comprehensive users’ guide and hosted 31 information sessions for RTOs and VET sector stakeholders to explain what the Standards are and how ASQA will be regulating against them.

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conducted more than 5,000 audit activities issued almost 500 notices to cancel/suspend registration made 220 decisions to cancel/suspend a provider’s registration rejected 159 applications to establish a new RTO, and

rejected 149 applications from existing RTOs to renew their registration. The message to training providers that do not comply with the requirements of the Standards and training packages is this – it’s not a matter of if you will be caught, but when. The Australian Government has given ASQA additional resources and regulatory tools to help it in its work, and it will use them to ensure poor quality providers are removed from the sector so that students, industry and employers can have confidence in the sector. Registered training organisations’ (RTOs) compliance with the required national Standards has increased, but more work needs to be done, according to the regulator. Analysis by the Australian Skills Quality Authority (ASQA) of compliance rates since new national Standards were implemented in early 2015 showed that 87 per cent of RTOs were compliant at the end of the audit process. Mr Robinson said this represented an increase of close to 5 per cent on the 82.4 per cent compliance rate under the previous Standards. Mr Robinson attributed the increase in compliance rates to the new Standards being clearer than the previous Standards, as well as the regulator’s efforts to increase the information and guidance it provides in order to assist RTOs to comply.

“Around 4500 individuals attended these sessions. I am confident that we will see a further increase in the level of compliance by RTOs as RTOs become more familiar with the Standards and revise their internal policies and procedures.” ASQA’s analysis of compliance rates coincided with a series of Stakeholder Briefings that it held across Australia last month. The briefings were targeted at industry regulators, peak business and employment bodies, peak training provider groups and government stakeholders in the VET sector. “ASQA is committed to engaging with the widest possible range of VET sector stakeholders to ensure that Australia’s hard-fought reputation of delivering high-quality vocational education and training is not only maintained but enhanced,” Mr Robinson said. “By working together, ASQA and its stakeholders can identify and respond to providers of concern and to emerging issues in the sector.” Mr Robinson said ASQA was planning to undertake another round of information sessions/briefings targeted specifically at RTOs in the first half of 2016. h t t p : / / w w w. a s q a . g o v. a u / v e t - re g i s t r a t i o n / a p p l y - f o rregistration/apply-for-initial-registration.html

NEW RESEARCH POINTS TO THE NEED FOR A TOTAL BAN ON MICROBEADS In a bid to improve product penetration technology is constantly looking at ways to develop micronised particles as a means of allowing active ingredients to penetrate the skin to deeper levels in order to achieve effective rejuvenation of skin cells. As nanoparticles actives have a better mechanism in penetrating the skin. There are many forms of transdermal delivery systems such as liposomes, as well as microbeads. However, there has been quite a bit of controversy with regards to the hazards of microbeads. You may be surprised to know that microbeads are commonly used in a variety of personal care products from toothpaste to exfoliators in scrub products. While microbeads may be effective the challenge they pose is that these tiny particles are non-biodegradable and evidence is mounting that they are leading to environmental problems in our water

environments. The mounting deposits in waterways, lakes and oceans are throwing up more and more examples of threats to aquatic life, and manufacturers are now bearing the brunt of the blame.

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A recent peer-reviewed study published in the journal of Environmental Science and Technology involved input of scientists from seven different institutions.

"We are facing a plastic crisis and don't even know it," said one researcher, Stephanie Green, research fellow of the College of Science at Oregon State University.

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The study estimated eight trillion microbeads are being emitted into aquatic habitats in the US alone on a daily basis, and this accounts for just 1% of the total 800 trillion microbeads that are actually filtered out by water-management systems every day in the US. However, of equal concern is the fact that a lot of these microbeads end up as sludge from sewage plants, which is eventually spread over agricultural land as fertiliser. Here in Australia there have been similar concerns and a campaign was launched in a bid to draw attention to this concern and encourage personal-care product companies to cease using microbeads in their products. The significant boost to the campaign, first reported in The SunHerald last November, comes after it received backing from the federal Environment Minister and other States on Friday. NSW and South Australia agreed to lead work on a "jurisdictional phase down of microbeads", according to a communique posted on the Department of Environment website. The campaign was started by environmental campaigner Jon Dee, who runs the advocacy group DoSomething, and NSW Environment Minister Rob Stokes, who have called for a voluntary ban by the end of 2016. Seven large companies have now committed to ridding their scrubs of microbeads, including Unilever, L'Oreal and The Body Shop. The latest are Clarins, Clearasil and Ella Baché, which have written to Mr Dee pledging their support. Clearasil stated they would phasing polyethylene microbeads out of our products by 2016. We are in the process of exploring suitable alternatives that will deliver the same performance”.

Australian model Miranda Kerr, whose cosmetic company makes scrubs without microbeads, previously told The Sun-Herald that consumers making small changes could have a positive impact on the planet. "I feel good knowing my customers and I aren't harming the environment by flushing plastic microbeads down the drain and ultimately into our waterways and ocean," Ms Kerr said. Mr Stokes said he was delighted that other States and companies had now expressed a desire to collaborate with NSW on the elimination on mircobead plastics. "It was important to discuss the increasing body of scientific evidence of the detrimental impact that microplastics are having in the marine environment," he said. The NSW Government also announced its commitment to reducing these impacts last year, but for action to be truly effective it needs to occur at a national level. Professor Emma Johnston from the Sydney Institute of Marine Science is leading research into whether stormwater drains were the route by which microbeads were entering the harbour. "This is a very positive development," she said. "Anything that reduces the chance of microbeads entering the system reduces the chance of them impacting the ecosystems that we value so highly." Ref: http://www.smh.com.au/nsw/campaign-to-rid-australianwaterways-of-microbeads-wins-backing-of-clarins-clearasiland-ella-bach-20150227-13re2b.html#ixzz3nZHE6Ag0

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CLASSIFICATIONS ! Corporate Platinum Membership for five or more staff ! Gold Membership for Individuals and Smaller Enterprises ! Gold Membership (Degree) for Degree-qualified Nurses & Dermal Therapists ! Gold Membership (Cosmetic Tattoo) for Cosmetic Tattooists

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trainingcourse

APAN Launches an â&#x20AC;&#x153;industry firstâ&#x20AC;? Accredited Training Course in

THE SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS The term "no pain, no gain" usually applies to hard effort or work in order to achieve a noteworthy outcome. Indeed, it can also be applied to the aesthetics industry. If we are looking at achieving advanced results, whether we are working with technology or new techniques, we are required to reach a level of skin depth where cells are still alive. This means the dermis, where we find a rich supply of nerves and vascular network. In order to stimulate the skin at this level with the objective of achieving rejuvenation, a level of pain will very often be experienced, or at the very least severe discomfort.

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Managing pain is an important consideration that will ensure that our client or patient will accept to undergo skin-management treatments with us and, in particular, in the event of on-going treatments. Currently, the use of topical anaesthetics have strong regulatory restrictions. Meanwhile, in a bid to manage pain and discomfort in a more efficient way, many practitioners are choosing to use them outside of current guidelines. As no formal qualifications in the use of topical anaesthetics are in this instance available specifically for the aesthetics industry, understanding their chemistry, how they are metabolised in the body, contraindications and their safe use are issues that are frequently poorly understood.

Mindful of this skills gap, APAN, in collaboration with Chris Testa, a compounding chemist and lecturer at Griffith University, have developed a training program on the safe use of anaesthetics.

A FIRST FOR THE AESTHETICS INDUSTRY An Introduction to the Safe use of Anaesthetics is the first official training course that was launched on the 16th August at APAN's national offices. Due to the large number of enrolments a second date, 20th September, followed, with the training room filled to capacity. The course was presented to Queensland regulatory representatives for their feedback and as evidence that good training is the key to safe practices, rather then the need for excessive regulations, as this is also the favourable Federal Government approach. As legislation in the area of skin penetration and infection control is currently being reviewed within several State jurisdictions, it was timely that our industry is demonstrating an appropriate initiative in education to improve standards and lower risks within our practices.

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Currently, the Australian Government is supportive and encourages industry representative bodies such as APAN to proactively identify and introduce appropriate initiatives and training to improve standards and lower risks within their industries.

A PA N h a s b e e n c o m m e n d e d

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favourably for introducing initiatives that support the integrity and advancement of the industry they represent and for the success of their businesses. The training events were enthusiastically received by the delegates and were highly successful, as practitioners who specialise in skin and age management â&#x20AC;&#x201C; whether dermal therapists, nurses or aesthetic therapists attended to gain valuable knowledge and a better understanding of anaesthetics and gain formal knowledge on this important subject. Therapists were grateful at the opportunity for this training, while both events were in high demand and totally sold out. The training was also highly interactive and practitioners found it invaluable that they were also able to ask questions that specifically related to their work. Great relationships were also forged by several practitioners and business owners.

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Lynette Rouse, Phil and Irena Morgenstern in the Green Room

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During the lunch break at the September event, Lynette Rouse, social-media co-ordinator for APAN, snapped several excited delegates and directed them to the APAN Green Media Room to interview them and present their comments on APAN's Youtube channel. "In addition to our conference programs these training events will provide greater value and education to members of our industry, as well as create a wonderful environment for great interaction as we identify ways to enrich the experiences of our community of practice," Tina Viney , APANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CEO said.

If you would like to take advantage of this training APAN will be hosting another training session. In Sydney this program will be delivered on Monday 27th November. To find out more phone 07 5593 0360 or visit www.apanetwork.com and check out the banner entitled "courses" and "conferences". We urge you to take advantage of these events.

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nutritionalingredient

The wonderful benefits of

SUNFLOWER OIL FOR SKIN AND HEALTH by Tina Viney

As we all know not all oils are the same, whether used for food or cosmetics. Each have their own properties and therefore offer different benefits. I love taking one ingredient and investigating any new research findings on their benefits, and in this issue I have chosen the majestic sunflower. Putting together a beautiful bouquet of flowers may sometimes be a challenge in getting the balance right, and if it's volume or a strong statement you wish to make you cannot go wrong by adding a few vibrantly coloured sunflowers. Bursting with bright yellow colours coupled with their sheer volume, they exude a feeling of joy and optimism. Who can look at a sunflower and not smile? I am fascinated why sunflowers turn to face the sun. They always follow the sunrise from east to west each day, so I investigated the reason for this phenomenon. According to David Henke, Senior Lecturer in Plant Sciences at Cambridge University this is due to the fact that there is a kind of driver that affects their movement and that is growth. If you look at a sunflower there is a narrow neck that is growing, and it is in this narrow neck where most of the cell expansion and therefore most of the expansion of the stem takes place. And this takes place at different rates on different sides of the stem. So, in the morning, most of this growth is on the west side of the stem so the flower tilts to the east; later on in the day you get stronger and faster growth on the north side, so the flower becomes tilted and so on until the evening when it ends up facing west. At night the growth is corrected and you have a great deal of growth on the west side, so at the beginning of the day it is facing east again.

This pattern is probably driven by some kind of internal clock, which is set by the transition at the end of the day from light to dark, which then starts the whole process of west-side growth in the flower. "We know that the sensitivity of plants to light in terms of the sensors capable of picking up light are quite remarkable," Dr Henke said, "and you can show that the light of a full moon on a completely clear night is just about perceptible to a plant, and the problem is that most of the time the moon isn't full." Sunflowers do unwind at night using the same alternating growth mechanism as in the day. But what is also interesting is that no-one really knows why the flowers themselves follow the sun. The best guess is that they need more heat to grow more seeds. So in terms of health, what is so special about sunflower and in particular the benefits if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oil? Sunflower oil Helianthus annuus is pressed from the seeds of the sunflower. This oil has amazing properties and research is now discovering some of its benefits for the skin as well as for overall health.

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Traditionally, sunflower oil has been used in cooking, however, applied topically to the skin if offers some amazing protective properties that can support wound healing and conditions such as psoriasis. Systemically, sunflower oil has also been found to relieve arthritic pain, so it is also commonly used in massage oils.

One of the primary reasons for the growing popularity of sunflower oil is its impressive fatty acid content, which includes palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid and linoleic acid. The combination of fatty

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acids in the body are extremely important to maintain various elements of human health, and sunflower oil can help maintain that balance. Furthermore, some of those fatty acids and other organic compounds in sunflower oil act as antioxidants, meaning that they can positively affect a huge range of conditions that people regularly suffer from. Sunflower oil also has more polyunsaturated fats than any other commonly used vegetable oil, and with the recent craze of eating healthy and searching for alternative options, sunflower oil is becoming quite desirable on the international market! Now, let’s explore the fascinating health benefits of sunflower oil in a bit more detail.

HEALTH BENEFITS OF SUNFLOWER OIL Heart Health: The balance of fatty acids found in sunflower oil, including a good amount of linoleic acid (an omega-6 fatty acid) is highly beneficial to human health. Although omega-6 fatty acids are typically considered “bad” cholesterol, they are still essential in the body. The problem is, most people have too many! Finding a healthy balance of good cholesterol (omega-3s) and bad cholesterol is very important. Furthermore, sunflower oil doesn’t contain any saturated fats, which means that it can actually reduce your overall cholesterol content in the body. This means that you are far less likely to develop atherosclerosis, which clogs arteries, raises blood pressure and increases your chances of suffering a heart attack or a stroke. Sunflower oil, in moderation, is a good choice for those who want to keep an eye on their heart health, particularly the cold-pressed organic variety.

Furthermore, the high content of vitamin E in sunflower oil, also acts as a moisturiser by helping the body cells retain water within them. Sunflower oils also contains nutrients such as Palmitic acid, Stearic acid, Lecithin, Tocopherols, Carotenoids, Selenium, Proteins, Copper, Iron, Zinc, Calcium and Omega-6 fatty acids. This synergy contributes to many of its cell-protecting properties. Moreover, folate or folic acid, present in sunflower oil, helps the body in the manufacture of new cells. Sunflower oil works as a protective and moisturising solution for the skin. A study published in The Lancet suggests that sunflower oil skin treatments may help prevent infection, especially for infants with underdeveloped skin. Energy Booster: The fatty acid content in sunflower oil is also beneficial is improving energy levels in the body. Saturated fat can make you feel sluggish, while unsaturated fats, of which sunflower oil has many, can keep you feeling energised. Cancer Prevention: As mentioned above, sunflower oil is rich in antioxidants. It contains vitamins A, C and E, but in particular its high doses of tocopherols (vitamin E) attribute to its powerful antioxidant properties in supporting the body's immunity by protecting against free radical damage. Specifically, sunflower oil has been linked to preventing colon cancer, and currently there are a number of on-going research studies to verify its effects on a wide variety of cancers.

Anti-inflammatory Capacity: Asthma affects millions of people around the world and this respiratory condition can range from mild to life-threatening. Sunflower oil has been positively correlated with lowering the severity of asthma Skin Health: Sunflower oil is rich in HEALTH BENEFITS OF SUNFLOWER OIL attacks because of its antivitamin E, which acts as an antioxidant inflammatory qualities, which are * Improves skin health and promote cell regeneration in the body. It has been directly derived from the synergy of its * Protects against cancer, such as colon cancer connected to preventing heart disease vitamin content as well as the * Boosts energy levels in the body and boosting your immune system. beneficial fatty acids sunflower oil Furthermore, vitamin E is specifically * Protects skin against sun damage contains. Along with asthma, related to improving skin health and * Lowers risk of infant infections sunflower oil has been linked to a regenerating cells. This means that your * Natural moisturiser reduction in severity of arthritis, skin is better protected against damage which is an inflammatory disease. from the sun, as well as the natural degradation of age that occurs when free radicals are present in the body. Antioxidants like vitamin E neutralise free radicals, keeping them from destroying or damaging healthy cells. You can see an increased reduction in scars, quicker wound healing and a healthier natural glow to your skin. This is why sunflower oil is commonly used in cosmetic applications.

Athlete’s foot (tinea pedis): Some research suggests that applying a specific brand of sunflower oil (Oleozon) to the foot for six weeks is as effective as the drug ketoconazole for curing athlete’s foot. Systemic Health: As we know antioxidants benefit the body in many ways, and in particular they have a significant effect in supporting the general immune system and the ability of the body to resist attacks of infection. Sunflower oil protects the skin by strengthening the membrane barriers, thereby making it harder for bacteria and viruses to enter the body. In infants, sunflower oil is highly recommended because it can protect the babies from infection, particularly when they are born premature and are highly susceptible to infections. This same benefit is extended to adults who use the oil as well, although the effects are not quite as dramatic.

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RECENT RESEARCH OUTCOMES Several recent studies have also demonstrated

that one of the reasons for the effectiveness of sunflower oil is due to its excellent transcutaneous absorption. Due to its rich linoleic acid content sunflower oil has been used topically in the treatment of essential fatty-acid deficiency, rapidly reversing the

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disease with its excellent transcutaneous absorption. More locally, these essential fatty acids can help maintain the skin barrier and decrease trans-epidermal water loss, both important features with skin problems such as atopic dermatitis. There is now evidence that preparations with higher amounts of linoleic acid versus oleic acid may be more beneficial in this role, and there is some clinical data that bears this out. Several studies have also suggested that sunflower seed oil has antiinflammatory properties. Linoleic acid is the major lipid that converts to arachidonic acid, which leads to prostaglandin E2, an inflammatory modulator, possibly via peroxisome proliferativeactivated receptor-a (PPAR-a) activation. These anti-inflammatory aspects are very compelling for our menagerie of inflammatory dermatoses. There is a rather amazing and somewhat bizarre line of evidence for the skin barrier enhancing properties of sunflower-seed oil. A study of 497 pre-term infants deemed high-risk for sepsis were given three times daily application of sunflower-seed oil versus standard of care agents to see if improving the skin barrier would prevent systemic infection. Indeed, sunflower-seed oil reduced sepsis by 41 percent, with a 26 percent reduction in mortality, significantly better than no treatment and similar to the effect of the petroleum-based moisturiser, but at a fraction of the cost. No adverse events were reported, suggesting that sunflower-seed oil is safe, even in these most vulnerable premature infants.

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Safe, inexpensive and widely available, sunflower oil seems a reasonable consideration for any patient with impaired skin barrier, so long as there is not a known sunflower seed allergy. While many details are yet to be resolved, including the linoleic vs oleic acid

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content, the frequency of application, and perhaps the underlying skin issues, sunflower seed oil has been used for quite some time and will likely remain an important ally.

References: www. dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com/dermatologytimes/news/skin-barrier-benefits-sunflower-seed-oil? Danby SG, Alenezi T, Sultan A, et al. Effect of olive and sunflower seed oil on the adult skin barrier: implications for neonatal skin care. Pediatr Dermatol. 2013;30(1):42-50. Lopez Perez G, Torres Altamirano M. Indications for sunﬂower oil concentrate in the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Rev Alerg Mex. 2006;53(6):217-25. Lodén M, Andersson AC. Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin. Br J Dermatol. 1996;134(2):215-20. Elias PM, Brown BE, Ziboh VA. The permeability barrier in essential fatty acid deficiency: evidence for a direct role for linoleic acid in barrier function. J Invest Dermatol. 1980;74(4):230-3. Eichenfield LF, Mccollum A, Msika P. The benefits of sunflower oleodistillate (SOD) in pediatric dermatology. Pediatr Dermatol. 2009;26(6):669-75. Darmstadt GL, Saha SK, Ahmed AS, et al. Effect of skin barrier therapy on neonatal mortality rates in preterm infants in Bangladesh: a randomized, controlled, clinical trial. Pediatrics. 2008;121(3):522-9. Kanti V, Grande C, Stroux A, Bührer C, Blume-Peytavi U, Garcia Bartels N. Influence of sunflower seed oil on the skin barrier function of preterm infants: a randomized controlled trial. Dermatology (Basel). 2014;229(3):230-9. Msika P, De Belilovsky C, Piccardi N, Chebassier N, Baudouin C, Chadoutaud B. New emollient with topical corticosteroid-sparing effect in treatment of childhood atopic dermatitis: SCORAD and quality of life improvement. Pediatr Dermatol. 2008;25(6):606-12.

“I had spent thousands of dollars getting legal advice to address my staffing issues not to mention the stress. Then someone told me about APAN and I spoke to an expert there and immediately realised that I could have access to top information and expert advice so quickly and easily and at a very reasonable rate of just joining as a member. Now when I have a query or a question, I just flick an email to APAN and within the hour I receive expert industry advice or legal advice from their solicitors it's amazing. As a professional I know my information needs to be accurate and credible. Through APAN I have access to not only the best but I also get my needs met fast! Joining was the best decision I ever made. Linda Bentley, NSW “My association with APAN is one that I greatly value. It is exciting to be part of a great organization and a large professional network that can offer me expert support and credible advice. APAN has brought a new level of service that we have not experienced before and they have shown great integrity within the industry. Their commitment and passion for the good of the industry is inspirational. Whenever I have reached out to them they have always been very positive and resourceful. I have also found them very generous in giving above my expectations and helping me achieve my goals. Nella Faraone, Western Australia

It's not what we say about ourselves – it's what others say about us that matters! “I was going through a major business crisis and it was recommended to me to phone APAN to join and access their mentoring and consulting services. Within half an hour of speaking with Tina Viney I was given immediate expert advice and gained clarity on how to address the issue at hand. Tina presented me with some incredible advice and options that allowed me to solve my issue straight away. To think we can access on industry leader of her calibre for a small yearly fee is amazing. For her wealth of knowledge and expertise I expected to be paying my yearly fee as an hourly rate. I am sold on the value of my membership with APAN.” Jenny Good, ACT

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With a strong motto of members first APAN delivers what it promises. They are committed to your progress. 25

Join the APAN Community of Practices. Invest in membership and reap the rewards. Phone 07 5593 0360.

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salonbusiness

KEEPING YOUR BUSINESS AFFAIRS IN ORDER FOR PEACE OF MIND by Vanessa Kirkham Often clients ask me if it is important for them to understand their tax obligations if they have a good accountant who is taking care of their books. It is important to understand that according to Australia law if an error in your tax return is identified you are ultimately responsible and not your accountant. Remember that before you pay your tax obligations your accountant will require that you read and sign the documentation that they will be submitting on your behalf. Part of this process requires that you agree that the information in your tax return is true and accurate, so in the event that it is not then you will be held accountable. For this reason the more you understand about your obligations and the appropriate strategies you need to have in place the greater your peace of mind. It is therefore prudent that you gain as much understanding as possible about your moneymanagement requirements and your tax obligations. Over the next few issues of APJ I will be including a series of brief articles that will cover various aspects of your financial management. I trust they will progressively help you better understand this otherwise boring subject, but nevertheless very important one. In this issue I will answer some common questions that I am often asked. I hope that in these questions I can answer some of yours as well.

WHAT INFORMATION DO I NEED FOR MY TAX RETURN? The Australian tax system relies on taxpayer’s self-assessment. This means that you are responsible for working out how much you can declare and claim on your tax return. You also need to be able to show how you arrived at these figures – in some cases you may be required to provide written evidence.

In order to prepare an accurate tax return and support the claims you make, you need to keep careful records. The records you need to keep depend on your personal circumstances. If you are not sure, it is better to keep too many records than not enough.

WHY SHOULD I KEEP RECORDS?

! ! ! !

To provide written evidence of your income and expenses To help you or your tax agent prepare your tax return To ensure that you are able to claim all your entitlements In case the Tax Office asks you to prove the information you provided in your tax return

HOW LONG SHOULD I KEEP MY RECORDS? Generally, you must keep your written evidence for five years from the date you lodge your tax return, or, if you:

! ! !

have claimed a deduction for decline in value (formerly known as depreciation) – five years from the date of your last claim for decline in value acquire or dispose of an asset – five years after it is certain that no capital gains tax (CGT) event can happen, so you know you don't need the records to work out a capital gain or loss are in dispute with the Tax Office – the later of five years from the date you lodge your tax return or when the dispute is finalised.

WHAT IF MY RECORDS ARE LOST OR DESTROYED? There may be time when your records are accidentally lost or destroyed – for example, if your home is burgled or burnt. In these instances, the Tax Office can allow you to claim a deduction for certain expenses if either of the following apply: 1. You have a complete copy of a lost or destroyed document

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2. The Tax Office is satisfied that you took reasonable precautions to prevent the loss or destruction and, if the document was written evidence, it is not reasonably possible to obtain a substitute document.

WHAT IF I PURCHASE AN ASSET OR SELL AN ASSET? If you purchase or dispose of an asset that might be subject to capital gains tax, you should keep: ! Documents showing the dates you purchased an asset and the date the capital gains tax (CGT) event occurred – an example is if you purchased an existing business. A CGT event must occur for a capital gain or loss to arise. There are a wide range of CGT events, but the most common CGT event occurs when you sell or give away an asset. Common examples of documentation are: a. contracts for the purchase or sale of an asset (such as real estate or shares), and b. dividend reinvestment statements from your unit trust or managed investment fund ! Documents showing the amount and date of any expenditure for that asset. In some cases, the expenditure is needed to calculate any gain or loss – for example, council rate notices ! Records of any un-applied net capital losses from previous years. You may be able to offset these against capital gains in this year.

WHAT RECORDS SHOULD I KEEP? You should keep records in these main categories: ! Any payments you have received e.g. your client services and products that they purchase from you. ! Any expenses related to payments you receive e.g. your products and equipment. For example, with your equipment don't forget maintenance cost, consumables, insurance, repair, etc. ! Keep receipts for any assets you purchase, or for that matter sell. ! Any tax-deductible gifts, donations or contributions such as membership to APAN or conference fees. ! Any medical expenses that may be work related. You may decide not to keep particular records – for example, because you expect to claim for only a small amount of business travel. If it turns out that you travel more than you expected during the year, you may be limited to a smaller claim than if you had kept more records. So if you’re not sure whether or not to keep a record, you should keep it and discuss it with your bookkeeper. They should be able to tell you what they can claim for you. If you incur expenses for private purposes, you must have records that show how you worked out the amount of any private use, and those that are for your business e.g. coffee and tea for work should be kept separate from your home shopping. If you obtain receipts or invoices, they could show such things as the: ! Name of the supplier ! Their Australian business number (ABN) ! Amount of the expense or purchase ! Nature of the goods or services purchased or expense incurred ! Date the expense was incurred ! Date of the document.

establishing a system for these processes is initially a strategic management task. From there on it is only a matter of retaining records in the appropriate system. Working with a qualified bookkeeper and GST agent will enable you to put these processes in place. You will be freed to concentrate on running your business with peace of mind, knowing that you have the right systems in place to meet with your tax and money management obligations.

If you would like to discuss your needs with Vanessa please contact her at Olive Gray Business Solutions Ph: 0412 70 7 044 GOOD RECORD KEEPING WILL GIVE YOU PEACE OF MIND AND HELP YOUR BUSINESS IDENTIFY ITS GROWTH OPPORTUNITIES AND ITS WORTH AS A BUSINESS ENTITY.

HOW IT ALL WORKS We provide a flexible bookkeeping service, specialising in off-site bookkeeping, you simply provide any files or paperwork via the internet, email or post. This facilitates a quick turnaround or your work.

SPECIAL OFFER Please quote this article in APJ to redeem a COMPLEMENTARY ONE-HOUR CONSULTATION. Contact us today: Olive Gray Business Solutions Ph: 0412 70 7 044 BAS agent Registration You can check if a bookkeeper is a registered BAS agent by searching www.tpb.gov.ay/tpb/agent_register.aspx. In our case simply enter 25195952 in the registration number field.

OLIVE GRAY BUSINESS SOLUTIONS We provide a flexible bookkeeping service, specialising in off-site bookkeeping. Vanessa Kirkham is a qualified accountant and tax agent. She is also a qualified beauty therapist and is familiar and understands the realities and needs of a salon business.

If you would like to discuss your needs with Vanessa please

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contact her on 0412 707 044 Olive Gray Business Solutions is an APAN strategic partner.

As you can see, a well-managed business should also include record-keeping protocols. As with any protocols and procedures

APJ107

productinnovations

In the Blink of a Smoky Eye Smoky Eye Kit by Jane Iredale The limited edition In the Blink of a Smoky Eye Smoky Eye Kit by Jane Iredale holds eight shades to create your favourite smoky eye. Five step-by-step looks are included on the fold-out 'how to' guide. These highly pigmented shadows are simple to blend, sensitivity-tested and they stay put for gorgeous, creasefree, long-lasting eye colour.

For further information and to place your order phone 1300 850 008 and discover the difference that Jane Iredale makes. www.janeiredale.com.au

JUST KISSED速 LIP AND CHEEK STAIN by Jane Iredale This multi-purpose lip and cheek stain uses all-natural ingredients to enhance your natural colouring. A nondrying, long-lasting, allnatural stain that adjusts to your own chemistry for an irresistible shade that will flatter your skin's undertones. Available in Forever Pink, Forever Peach and now introducing Forever Red.

For further information and to place your order phone 1300 850 008 and discover the difference that Jane Iredale makes. www.janeiredale.com.au

ATTRACT AND IMPRESS NEW CLIENTS WITH THESE AMAZING POSTCARDS The festive season is a time for celebrations. APAN has developed a collection of amazing postcards that are themed especially for the aesthetics industry. These high quality, colourful, high gloss cards come in large DL size and are very eye catching. Developed specifically for the industry they allow you to personalise them and use them as a wonderful draw card to gain new clients and lure those who have not visited you for a while. They include Gift Vouchers, Thank you cards, Birthday Cards, Congratulations cards as well as two lovely designs for Christmas as gift cards.

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There is even one for your male clients. Available in packs of 50, 100, or 150 you can select whichever ones

you prefer or select a mixture of various cards. Prices start at $40. These cards have high potential to accelerate your bookings. Visit http://apanetwork.com/gift-

cards-vouchers/ to view the collection and Phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 to place your order.

APJ 108

SKEYNDOR HYPNOTIC COUTURE PHENOMENON MASCARA Changing the makeup game FOREVER Girls who want a natural look, please step aside. The latest from SKEYNDOR, the Phenomenon Mascara delivers a seriously sexy, megasize lash fringe. Mastering the jumbo brush, all 3cm of it, takes a few tries â&#x20AC;Ś twirl the wand as lashes are coated from root to tip - now we've got the hang of it NO LASH WILL BE SPARED. Phenomenon features the canon (forget the big guns, we mean a canon), in wands with its cluster of tiny bristles that grip sparse and teeny inner corner lashes for dear life, taking them to their limits. The result: a super panoramic and false lash effect. Shorter fibres coat every single lash, one by one and the separation between fibres, deposits the product generating extra volume for voluptuous, vampy lashes that every girl longs to have. The inky, superblack formula nourishes while it loads lashes without clumping or smudging. It has a high covering capacity that stays pliable for longer (which is helpful when maneuvering the wand) and begs to be piled on coat after coat. One quick swipe on lower lashes leaves them looking noticeably defined so we can bat away for a full-on faux fringe. Phenomenon Mascara is from the Hypnotic Couture Make-up Collection, the latest from SKEYNDOR.

Phone: Vogue Image Group 1 800 554 545/(03) 9821 0033 or email info@vogueimage.com.au to find out more.

SKEYNDOR HYDRA GLAM EXTREME GLOSSY LIPSTICK

SKEYNDOR HYPNOTIC COUTURE MAGIC SHINE EYE SHADOW

Buttery textures and loads of pigment that's the new Skeyndor Hydra Glam Extreme Glossy Lipsticks, which has arrived just in time for the festive season. Packaged like a crayon and wearing like a stain, these deeply moisturising rich shades care for the lip, stay the day and give an impeccable finish.The line-up features Nuit Orchid, a downright decadent and lusty crimson magenta ~ Brick Red, a wildly flattering electric red to suit any skin tone and Nude Coppertone, for a play it safe neutral.

Call 1 800 554 545/(03) 9821 0033 or info@vogueimage.com.au.

From a rich plum to peachy soft champagne with a touch of gold, these long lasting buttery soft shadows offer a slight sheen and matte shades that vary in opacity. These tempered and graduated hues add a glamorous touch to intensely enhance the look of the eyes. Each palette contains five infinitely appealing

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shades so not a single colour will go unused, ever. Their velvety finish make

these super stars from SKEYNDOR sophisticated and flattering. Blending like a dream, they look as pretty mixed, matched or worn alone. Generally champagne eye shades are scandalously frosty and heavy, but not this one from the palette with its warm, elegant patina. Intense

pigments offer stay-put prowess and the ultra fine mineral powders with the added benefits of anti-oxidants to care for the lids offer long wearing coverage. Skimming on like silk, they play up eyes and flatter every skin tone - from ivory to olive complexions without settling into creases. Now that's something every girl needs to know. Magic Shine Eye Shadows are from the SKEYNDOR Hypnotic Couture Collection.

Phone: Vogue Image Group on 1 800 554 545/(03) 9821 0033 or email info@vogueimage.com.au

APJ 109

wellnessresearch

New Research discovers hope for MIGRAINEURS An interview with Professor Griffiths

Migraine is a severe neurological disorder affecting approximately 12% of the Australian population, with around three times more females than males affected. Within your practice you may encounter individuals who suffer from this affliction. With the use of various technologies, especially lightbased therapies, it is prudent to understand this condition better in order to ensure that your services do not contribute adversely and trigger a reaction. Additionally, knowledge will allow you to provide compassionate care and determine appropriate protocols when working with these individuals. When it comes to migraine research is discovering that the disorder has a significant genetic component showing high levels of familial aggregation and a number of genes involved in rare and severe sub-types of migraine have been identified. Genetic linkage and genome wide association studies have implicated a number of causal genes, genomic regions and several susceptibility variants in the disorder. Neurotransmitter pathways have been the main focus of studies investigating the molecular mechanisms of the disorder, but vascular and hormonal disturbances also occur in migraineurs, as highlighted by alterations in cerebral blood flow and hormonal triggers of migraine. Recently the 2015 Blackmores Institute Symposium featured leading researchers who spoke on numerous health-related issues and the role that nutrition can play in supporting prevention and recovery. Among them was Professor Lyn Griffiths, Executive Director of the Institute of Health and Biomedical innovation at QUT. To help us better understand this topic we caught up with Professor Griffiths for a brief interview. We trust this information will help you better understand this condition.

APJ Q1: Professor Griffiths, can you explain to us the differentiating factors between a headache and a migraine? How can one determine the onset of a migraine from just a headache? While both migraine and a headache involve pain, there are some characteristic symptoms that differentiate migraines. The key ones include nausea, vomiting, pulsation of the temples, spots, waving

lines, flashing lights, numbness or a "pins-and-needles" feeling in the hands, arms, or face, short-term weakness in one side of the body, pain gets worse with physical activity, light and noise sensitivity and sometimes photophobia. As a rule migraines are also unilateral, whereas headaches are often not necessarily one-sided.

APJ Q2: Statistically in Australia are migraine sufferers increasing and what percentage of the population are afflicted by migraines? There have not been any large epidemiology studies since 1991, however, the current statistic that we have indicate the migraine affects approximately 12% in most populations, with 18% of women, 7% of men and 4% of children effected. There also appears to be ethnic differences in the prevalence of migraine, with Caucasian populations having the highest rates.

APJ Q3: Is there any significant impart of migraine to the Australia economy? This disorder incurs substantial economic costs on society. In 1990 the Australian Bureau of Statistics estimated that the total cost of migraine to the Australian community could be as high as $721 million. Most of this is annual financial burden stems from lost productivity at work due to absenteeism and/or reduced occupational effectiveness. Healthcare costs associated with migraine are also sizeable, with millions being spent on medical consultation, hospital beds and drug treatment.

APJ Q4: Are there different types of migraines with different aetiologies, and if so what are they? Yes, there are two types. The International Headache Society classifies migraine into two main subtypes. The most common type is migraine without aura, which accounts for approximately 75% of all migraine. The second type is migraine with aura. This is characterised mostly by visual aura experiences shortly before the onset of headache. Auras appear as bright shimmering lights around objects or at the edges of the field of vision, and the appearance of zigzag lines or wavy images and even temporary loss of vision. Non-visual effects can include weakness, speech or language

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abnormalities, dizziness, vertigo and tingling or numbness of the face, tongue or extremities. The International Headache Society defines migraine with aura as recurring headache associated with other neurological symptoms that almost certainly originate at the cerebral cortex or brain stem and tend to gradually develop over 5-20 minutes and usually last less than one hour. Following the neurological aura symptoms, a period where there is no plain and/or discomfort may be experienced. However, most migraineurs develop severe headaches, nausea and/or sensitivity to light, with headaches lasting between 4-72 hours.

Migraine does not affect mortality rate, even though it is considered as on top of the list of neurological diseases. However, it can significantly affect quality of life, productivity and family relations. Other than drug therapy, as discussed above, research has shown that dietary folate and increased vitamin B levels can substantially help to reduce homocysteine levels. Since the MTHFR mutation has been implicated in increased levels of circulation, homocysteine, and migraine, it is possible that appropriate dietary additions could influence the onset and severity of migraine. To

Both neurological and vascular dysfunction are at the core of migraine. For migraine with aura, a wave of neural depolarisation across the brain cortex is associated with a dramatic reduction in cerebral blood flow. The headache that is common to both types of migraine may arise due to dilation of cerebral blood vessels. Biochemical factors that have the potential to disrupt vascular function and cerebral blood flow are thus important in migraine susceptibility.

APJ Q5: Are there genetic factors that contribute to migraines and can one mitigate genetic predisposition to migraines? The underlying mechanisms for migraine are poorly understood. The disorder clearly runs in families and shows a significant genetic component. We have investigated a number of genes to determine their involvement in migraine and we have identified a role for a number of genes including hormone receptor gene variants, neurotransmitter genes, and vascular genes. One promising vascular gene we have identified is the MTHFR gene. A mutation in this gene plays a role in migraine susceptibility, particularly in those suffering from migraine with aura. The C677T mutation in this gene reduces the activity of the MTHFR enzyme, leading to increased levels of homocysteine. Plasma homocysteine levels are significantly higher in patients with coronary artery disease, vascular disease and stroke. Migraine is also associated with an increased risk of stroke, particularly in sufferers of migraine with aura. We are now discovering nutritional supplements can offer great benefits to migraine sufferers both as preventative as well as in minimising the severity of the incidents. Research is confirming the benefits of Vitamin B and certain herbs and minerals. Folic acid, Riboflavin (B2), Cyanocobalanin (B12) and pyridoxine (B6) can be highly beneficial, as well as the herb Feverfew and magnesium orotate.

APJ Q6: What are the triggers to migraine and how can one avoid them? There are certain foods that can trigger a migraine. These include chocolate, red wine, strong cheese and citrus fruit. Other factors include bright lights and glare as well as dehydration. Other factors that may contribute to the onset of migraine include a drop in barometric pressure such as before a storm. Individuals are advised to monitor what affects them and avoid them. This is quite a debilitating condition and it is advisable as a practitioner to include "migraine" within your health evaluation forms as it will allow you to take the necessary precautionary measures when treating your client who may be a migraine sufferer.

address this possibility we undertook a six-month double-blind placebo-controlled trial, to determine the effects of folate/vitamin B supplementation on migraine frequency, severity and disability. The results of this trial were very promising as they showed a significant reduction in migraine symptoms among those receiving treatment. Vitamin supplementation reduces homocysteine levels by 39% the research confirmed. More significantly though, vitamin supplementation reduced migraine disability from 61% at baseline to 30% after six months, with no reduction in the placebo group. Headache frequency and pain severity also decreased significantly in the treated group. The effect of the treatment on both momocystein levels and migraine disability was associated specifically with the MTHFR mutation.

IN CONCLUSION The success of our pilot trial has shown that a safe, inexpensive nutraceutical approach may be of significance to many migraineurs.

About Professor Lyn Griffiths Professor Lyn Griffiths is the Executive Director of the Institute of Health and Biomedical Innovation at QUT. She is a molecular geneticist who has been studying the genes involved in common human disorders for nearly two decades. Her expertise is in the field of human gene mapping and focuses on identifying the genes involved in common complex disorders, including migraine, cardiovascular disease and several types of cancer. She has published over 280 research papers, supervised 35 Postgraduates and 38 Honours students and received significant competitive grant and industry funding. Among her many achievements, Professor Griffiths was a Queensland Finalist for Australian of the Year in 2005 and has been awarded a Centenary Medal for Distinguished Service to Education and Medical Research.

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APJ Q7: How do migraines affect health long-term and what are the best treatment recommendations?

APJ 111

antiageing

WHY YOU MIGHT BE 20 YEARS OLDER THAN YOUR ACTUAL AGE by Tina Viney

Studies confirm that some people are ageing three years every 12 months. It is said that time waits for no man, but biologically speaking some people are barely ageing at all, while others are speeding through their lives at the rate of three years every 12 months, scientists have found.

others appear to hardly age from year to year. “We are now at a point where we can quantify biological ageing in young people,” said Dr Andrea Danese, Senior Lecturer in Developmental Psychobiology and Psychiatry at Kings College London. “And for the first time we can see how fast they are ageing. The people who had the oldest biological age were growing old the fastest.

For the first time researchers have developed a test that reveals not only biological age, but how fast people are growing old. And the results are startling. In a group of 38-year-olds, the scientists discovered that some had the same physiology as a 30-year-old while others were closer to 60.

“If we know that we can think about changing diets or making lifestyle changes when it is early enough to do something about it.

The researchers from a range of institutions, including Kings College London and Duke University in the US, believe it could explain why some people look far older than their years, while

“With these tests we could detect premature ageing before young people begin to develop heart disease, diabetes or dementia so we could treat them.”

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AGEING DOESN'T HAVE TO BRING POOR HEALTH AND FRAILTY

DELETING GENES COULD BOOST LIFESPAN BY 60 PER CENT

To discover what biological markers in the body could show the rate of growing old, the scientists have been following more than 1,000 people who were born in 1972-73. Just as hair goes grey and wrinkles appear, all parts of the body slowly deteriorate with age, and that can be measured to work out a person’s true biological age. Someone who has never smoked, exercised regularly and eaten a healthy diet may have protected themselves against much of the ravages of time, whereas a person who lives an unhealthy lifestyle will speed up the process.

Meanwhile a further study revealed that switching off parts of the genetic code could help people live longer. Scientists have discovered more than 200 genes linked to ageing and have found switching them off extends life. The secret of extending life by decades may lie in switching off certain genes, scientists believe, after showing that small genetic tweaks can make organisms live 60 per cent longer.

The researchers looked at 18 indicators of health, including kidney and liver function, blood pressure, cholesterol levels, and the length of telomeres – the protective caps at the end of chromosomes that prevent DNA damage.

SECRET OF HEALTH AGEING DISCOVERED IN 35-YEAR STUDY They carried out the tests when participants were aged 26, 32 and 38 to see how they were changing over time. Although most people were around their real age, and were ageing at a rate of 12 months in one year, some were ageing as fast as three years per chronological year, while others were not ageing at all. Photographs of the volunteers were also handed out to students at Duke University who were asked to assess their age. Those who were biologically older invariably appeared older to the students. The scientists claim that most of the difference in ageing rates are down to environmental factors rather than genes, and so could be altered. It is thought that just 20 per cent of differences in ageing is genetic.

Ten years of research by the Buck Institute for Research on Ageing and the University of Washington has identified 238 genes that, when silenced, increase the lifespan of yeast cells. Many of the genes are present in mammals, including humans, suggesting that switching them off could dramatically increase lifespan. “This study looks at ageing in the context of the whole genome and gives us a more complete picture of what ageing is,” said lead author Dr Brian Kennedy.” Almost half of the genes we found that affect ageing are conserved in mammals. “Our best results were single gene deletions that increased lifespan by around 60 per cent compared to normal yeast," said Dr Mark McCormick of the Buck Institute. "In theory, any of these factors could be therapeutic targets to extend healthspan. What we have to do now is figure out which ones are amenable to targeting.” To determine which genes were responsible for ageing, researchers examined 4,698 strains of yeast, each with a single gene deletion, and then monitored how long cells lived for before they stopped dividing.

“There is a great deal of environmental influence,” said lead author Dan Belsky, assistant professor of geriatrics at Duke University’s Centre for Ageing. As we get older our risk for all kinds of different diseases grow. To prevent multiple diseases simultaneously, ageing itself has to be the target.”

They found that deleting a gene called LOS1 produced particularly impressive results, extending life by 60 per cent. LOS1 is linked to a genetic master switch that has long been associated with calorie restriction through fasting and increased lifespan.

AGEING REVERSED AS SCIENTISTS DISCOVER HOW TO TURN THE CLOCK BACK

"Calorie restriction has been known to extend lifespan for a long time," added Dr. Kennedy. Co-author Dr Mark McCormick, of the Buck Institute, said: "Our best results were single gene deletions that increased lifespan by around 60 per cent compared to normal yeast."

The researchers are hopeful that in future doctors would be able to test people when they are in their 30s to determine how fast they are ageing so that they could offer health advice or medication. Professor Terrie Moffitt, of Duke University, added: “It is indeed likely that individual patients will be able to get a number for their own biological age by asking for the test. Most of the 18 biomarkers we used in our research are used routinely in clinical practice already, nothing mysterious. “People can already go to the internet to calculate their “heart age”, entering their blood pressure, height, weight, and whether or not they smoke, and so forth. But our measure of the pace of ageing is a bit different, as it is based on aspects of organ function that are “hidden” inside young people who still feel and look healthy; it does not rely on observable behaviours such as smoking.

SWITCHING OFF THE GENE LOS1 APPEARS TO MIMIC FASTING Earlier this year academics from the University of Southern California found that a five-day diet that mimics fasting can slow down ageing, add years to life, boost the immune system and cut the risk of heart disease and cancer. The plan restricts calories to between one-third and a half of normal intake. Last year the same team discovered that fasting can regenerate the entire immune system, bringing a host of long-term health benefits. When humans tested out the regimen, within three months they had reduced biomarkers linked to ageing, diabetes, cancer and heart disease as well as cutting overall body fat.

“One goal we need to meet next is to determine which are the fewest biomarkers needed to accurately estimate a person’s biological age. What is the most effective and low-cost short version. We devised a Cadillac version for our research, but a family doctor might want a Volkswagen version"

The researchers think it works by slashing a hormone which encourages growth, and has been linked to cancer susceptibility. Essentially it tricks the body into ageing more slowly. The new study was published in the journal Cell Metabolism.

The research was published in the journal the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.

Ref: Science Alert: http://www.sciencealert.com/scientistsmap-genes-that-extend-life-by-as-much-as-60-percent-ifdeleted

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productmerchandising

WE HAVE MISSED YOU!

by Tina Viney

Every business goes through cycles â&#x20AC;&#x201C; good times and bad times. However, those who are progressive, identify solutions for things that went wrong, as well as new and more innovative ways of improving both the service, as well as the treatments on offer. Life is never perfect. Sometimes we make mistakes, but that should not intimidate us and hinder us from rising again stronger and even better than before. One way to motivate yourself is to dig deep and question why you started your own business, or why you studied to become a dermal or aesthetic therapist? Consider also your intentions. Are they honourable? Do you believe that what you are offering your clients can make a difference in their lives? Are you passionate and committed to constantly finding new and better ways of offering your clients great value and benefit for spending time with you? Look to your values and purpose to discover reasons that will motivate you and help you continue to grow and offer something better each and every time your client visits you. Experts tell us that all highly successful people ask lots of questions. For example:

! ! !

Have my clients learnt something new that I don't know about and are making them less excited to continue coming to us? Have their expectations and standards of what they want from their treatment outcomes changed? Have they identified someone doing things better than us and are they thinking of going there rather than continuing with us?

The benefit of asking such questions is that they open you up to new information that can help you progress and come up with better solutions. Do you know the key reasons why clients leave one salon or clinic and go somewhere else?

Here are the three top reasons:

They feel their therapists has stagnated in their endeavours to improve what she is doing for them. While during the first consultation they gave many promises, their attitude progressively changed. Their desire to offer better results has stopped being on-going. Their therapist prefers to chat to them about social issues rather than ways that they can achieve better results for them. A paying client is there for what you can give them. While they may appear to enjoy a chitchat they are also aware that they have come to you for your services and not just your company. The service they receive each time they visit their therapist has just become routine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; always the same, predictable with no surprises or suggestions for further improvement. People talk and if someone brags about how efficient a therapist is, your client will compare notes and will seriously consider going to the one who is offering better results.

STRATEGIES FOR GROWTH Coming to the end of the year, every business needs to grow their market share. After all, summer is the boom season. It's a great time to provide extra service to existing clients, but also to gain new ones. Of all the months of the year this is the time when most people get married, celebrate graduations, engagements, prepare for holidays, hold or attend parties.

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Most women want to lose a kilo or two to fit into that lovely dress and with lighting being brighter in summer they want to make sure their facial flaws are softened.

Stepping up your services is so critical, especial with the festive season being so close.

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Here are a few great ideas:

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Review your current offerings and look at ways to add extra value to what you are currently doing. Are you doing IPL or laser skin rejuvenation, add LED at the end of the treatment. Are you offering microdermabrasion as a treatment, include a glycolic peel or an enzyme peel prior to your microdermabrasion and finish off with a hydrating mask or a vitamin enriched treatment mask to support cell renewal. With your clients that are having facial treatments, cross market by giving them a lovely de-stressing body treatment and introduce them to body packages. Invite a nutritionist and include a consultation with them to assess your client's diet and nutritional status. Include this as part of an antiageing package.

this. APAN have created several high quality "themed" post cards for a number of specific reasons. They have three that would suit this situation - two cards entitled WE HAVE MISSED YOU. These cards are carefully worded to show you care about your client and wish to see them back. This is a very personalised touch and the kind words will be most welcoming. One successful strategy is to also offer them a "SPECIAL" reason why they need to contact you. Give them a promotional offer or something that may be of value to them. If you would like to see the wording to these cards visit http://apanetwork.com/gift-cards-vouchers/ to view both the front of the cards and the wording behind them.

When promoting your services consider the following: 1. Contact your supplier and discuss gift ideas and summer promotional offerings that can attract new clients 2. Introduce a VIP night and link it to a cause-related marketing concept e.g. breast cancer or skin cancer. Invite representatives from the Cancer Council to briefly speak about new research. Provide an opportunity for any gift vouchers that are sold that a percentage of the revenue will go towards Cancer Research. 3. Offer existing clients a very attractive gift if they introduce a friend and they book for a treatment. Discuss special offers or travel pack offer with your supplier to be used for this purpose. 4. Invite your supplier to speak about what is unique about their product. 5. Introduce a beautiful basket for a raffle. 6. Invite an anti-ageing doctor or expert to speak about diet, nutrition, stress management, weight loss or detoxification strategies. Whatever you do make the lecture educational, interesting and beneficial to your clients. Ensure that the topic that is covered will also be associated with a special promotion e.g. body toning, inchloss treatment, cellulite reduction treatment, a high quality sunscreen and skin boosting treatment to support the skin against sun damage, pigmentation and dehydration. It is important that you dovetail your themes so they lead to business. Educate on a topic and then offer products and services that can support or mitigate those issues. Provide incentives with special offers why they need to secure their purchases that evening. All products and services purchased on your promotional night will go in the draw for a further prize.

For your VIP night you may wish to use another card entitled "AN INVITATION TO EXPERIENCE A BLISSFUL TREATMENT". You can use this card to invite a few of your best clients for a new treatment promotion. At this time of the year many businesses use flyers to communicate with consumers. While the success rate from flyers is approximately 2% postcard responses, especially if they are addressed to a specific person, have a much higher rate - 80-85%. They are therefore a better investment. I recently read a wonderful quote that said, "Don't just think outside the box, get rid of the box". What a great thought. Innovation finds ways to do things differently. Surprise your clients by being innovative and making them value and appreciate your efforts to service them better. This is one of the best ways to retain existing clients and gain old ones back. Reach out to people in a caring and compassionate way and you will be surprised how many will value your effort and respond positively to you.

If you wish to access some great postcards to support your promotional endeavours don't forget to visit: http://apanetwork.com/gift-cards-vouchers/

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GET THEM BACK IN Over the years you may have lost touch with some of your clients. Things got busy and hectic and for whatever reason you never reconnected with them. However, research tells us it is easier to reconnect with an existing client that to secure a new one.

A postcard with a lovely message is one of the most successful strategies for you to achieve

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nutritionaldeficiencies

The most common Nutritional Deficiencies and their impact on skin and health By Tina Viney Despite our good intentions stress and our fast-paced living often leave us nutritionally depleted, either through insufficient food intake or poor quality. This often leads to nutritional deficiencies that can contribute to accelerated ageing, dry, pigmented skin and even skin that does not respond positively to recommended your treatments. Even if you do eat well, how and where your food was grown can also influence your nutritional intake. Soil quality, storage time, and processing can significantly influence the levels of certain nutrients in your food. While each person is different and there may be issues such as your client's age, or poor assimilation of nutrients due to a compromised digestive system, it is still advisable to consider the following common deficiencies as a starting point. Unfortunately, in many cases nutrient deficiencies can be difficult to assess, and you may not develop symptoms until the deficiency has become quite pronounced. Below, is a list of the nine most common nutrient deficiencies and simple ways to address them:

Vitamin D Vitamin D deficiency is one of the most prevalent in Australia and it affects people of all ages, especially in those who use topical sun screens (which blocks vitamin D production) or limit their outdoor activities. Researchers estimate that 60 per cent of the general population is at risk of vitamin D deficiency and insufficiency, and this percentage rises in higher-risk populations such as the elderly and those with darker skin. Signs indicating you may have a vitamin D deficiency include being over the age of 50, having darker skin, obesity, achy bones, feeling blue, head sweating, and poor immune function. Experts recommend that you get your vitamin D levels twice a year. Based on the evaluation of healthy populations that get plenty of natural sun exposure, the optimal range for general health appears to be somewhere between 50 and 70 ng/ml. As for how to optimise your vitamin D levels, sun exposure is the best way, although vitamin D-rich foods and D3 supplements may also be necessary if you cannot get adequate sun exposure yearround. To optimise your levels, you need to expose large portions of

your skin, such as your back, chest, legs, and arms, to sensible sun exposure. And, contrary to popular belief, the best time to be in the sun for vitamin D production is actually as near to solar noon as possible. During this time you need the shortest exposure time to produce vitamin D because UVB rays are most intense at this time. Plus, when the sun goes down toward the horizon, the UVB is filtered out much more than the dangerous UVA. Just be cautious about the length of your exposure. You only need enough exposure to have your skin turn the lightest shade darker. Once you reach this point your body will not make any additional vitamin D due to its self-regulating mechanism. Any additional exposure will only cause harm and damage to your skin. Avoiding processed foods is another important consideration, as they tend to be loaded with the herbicide glyphosate and gktogisate has been shown to interfere with enzymes responsible for activating vitamin D in your liver and kidneys.

Omega-3 Fats Low concentrations of the omega-3 fats EPA and DHA are associated with an increased risk of death from all causes, and omega-3 deficiency has been revealed as the sixth biggest killer in the US and similar statistics are confirmed for Australia. Most Australians eat too many inflammatory omega-6 fats in the form of processed vegetable oils and too few anti-inflammatory omega-3s, which sets the stage for a number of health problems, including cardiovascular disease, cancer, depression, Alzheimer's, rheumatoid arthritis, and diabetes, as well as dry and dehydrated skin, eczema and psoriasis. 100

Telltale signs that your omega-3 to omega-6 ratio may be out of balance include dry, flaky skin, alligator skin, or "chicken skin" on backs of arms; dandruff or dry hair; soft brittle nails, fatigue, menstrual cramps, and poor attention span. The ideal ratio of omega-3 to omega-6 fats is about 1:1, but the typical Western diet is between 1:20 and 1:50, so in addition to upping your omega-3 intake, you also need to reduce the amount of omega-6 in your diet, which means cutting down on processed and fried foods. Sardines are one of the most concentrated sources of

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omega-3 fats, with one serving containing more than 50 per cent of your recommended daily value. They also contain other nutrients that many are deficient in, such as vitamin B12, calcium, and choline. If you decide to take omega-3s in supplement form look for formulas with high phospholipids that increase its absorption, which means you need less of it.

Vitamin K2 Vitamin K2 may be just as important as vitamin D for optimal health. It’s essential for bone strength, the health of arteries and blood vessels, and plays a role in other biological processes as well, including tissue renewal and cell growth, healthy pregnancy, and cancer prevention. In the 2014 paper, Vitamin K: An old vitamin in a new perspective, vitamin D expert Dr. Michael Holick and coauthors review the history of vitamin K and its many benefits, including its significance for bone and cardiovascular health. Vitamin K2 is an important adjunct to vitamin D, without which vitamin D cannot work properly. K2’s biological action is also impaired by a lack of vitamin D, so you really need to consider these two nutrients together. Vitamins D and K2 also work synergistically with magnesium and calcium, so this quartet should ideally be taken in combination. Whereas vitamin K, which is the primary vitamin responsible for blood clotting, can be found in green leafy vegetables, vitamin K2 is only present in fermented foods. It’s produced by certain bacteria during the fermentation process. Examples of foods that are naturally high in vitamin K2 include fermented vegetables like sauerkraut. Raw dairy products such as certain cheeses, raw butter, and kefir also contain high amounts. However, only grass-fed animals (not grain fed) will develop naturally high K2 levels. Menaquinone-7 (MK-7) is the kind of vitamin K2 you want to look for in supplements, as this form is extracted from real food. The other type of K2, known as MK-4, is only available in synthetic form, which has the additional drawback of having a very short biological half-life, necessitating taking it several times a day. Research has shown MK-7, specifically, helps prevent inflammation by inhibiting pro-inflammatory markers produced by white blood cells called monocytes.

Magnesium Magnesium is the fourth most abundant mineral in your body, yet an estimated 75 per cent of Australians are deficient in it. Without sufficient amounts of magnesium your body simply cannot function at its best. Insufficient cellular magnesium levels set the stage for deterioration of proper metabolic function that typically snowballs into more significant health problems. Researchers have detected more than 3,750 magnesium-binding sites on human proteins, reflecting how important this mineral is to a great many biological processes. For example, magnesium plays a role in your body's detoxification processes and therefore is important for minimising damage from environmental chemicals, heavy metals, and other toxins. Even glutathione, considered by many to be your body's most powerful antioxidant, requires magnesium in order to be produced. Magnesium also plays roles in preventing migraine headaches, cardiovascular disease (including high blood pressure, heart attacks, and strokes), sudden cardiac death, and even reduces death from all causes. Low magnesium levels are also consistently found in those with elevated insulin, and research suggests that magnesium intake may help reduce your risk of developing diabetes if you’re at high risk. The mechanism by which magnesium controls glucose and insulin homeostasis appears to involve two genes responsible for magnesium homeostasis. Magnesium is also required to activate tyrosine kinase, an enzyme that functions as an

“on” or “off” switch in many cellular functions and is required for the proper function of your insulin receptors. Most people can keep their magnesium levels in the therapeutic range without resorting to supplements by eating a varied diet, including plenty of dark-green leafy vegetables. Seaweed and green leafy vegetables like spinach and Swiss chard can be excellent sources of magnesium, as are some beans, nuts, and seeds, like pumpkin, sunflower, and sesame seeds. Avocados also contain magnesium. Juicing your vegetables is an excellent option to ensure you're getting enough of them in your diet. Magnesium salts can also be introduced into the body via transdermal means through foot baths or through the use of magnesium oil.

Vitamin B12 Vitamin B12 (cobalamin) is known as the energy vitamin. Your body requires it for a number of vital functions, including energy production, blood formation, DNA synthesis, and myelin formation. The two ways you become deficient are through a lack of vitamin B12 in your diet, or through your inability to absorb it from the food you eat. About one in four adults are deficient in this important nutrient, and nearly half the population has suboptimal blood levels. Warning signs of B12 deficiency include “mental fog,” memory problems, mood swings, apathy, fatigue, muscle weakness, and tingling in the extremities. Unfortunately, B12 deficiency may not present itself for a number of years, so by the time you notice symptoms, you may be quite deficient. Vitamin B12 is present in natural form only in animal sources of food, which is one of the reasons I advise against a no-animal-food vegan diet. B12-rich foods include beef and beef liver (grass-fed beef is highly preferable to the grain-fed variety), lamb, snapper, venison, salmon, shrimp, scallops, organic-pastured poultry, and eggs. When it comes to supplementation, your best alternatives include injectable B12 and sublingual drops or spray. Most oral supplements tend to be ineffective, as vitamin B12 is poorly absorbed.

Vitamin E Vitamin E is particularly important for your brain health, but it also helps support normal cholesterol levels, and protect against free radical damage and the normal effects of aging. Recent animal research warns that vitamin E deficiency may actually cause brain damage, while studies have also found that supplementation with it may help delay the loss of cognitive function in people with Alzheimer’s disease. According to lead author Maret Traber: This research showed that vitamin E is needed to prevent a dramatic loss of a critically important molecule in the brain and helps explain why vitamin E is needed for brain health. Human brains are very enriched in DHA, but they can’t make it. They get it from the liver. The term vitamin E refers to a family of at least eight fat-soluble antioxidant compounds, divided into two main categories: tocopherols (which are considered the "true" vitamin E) and tocotrienols, each of which has subfamilies of four different forms. Ideally, vitamin E should be consumed in the broader family of mixed natural tocopherols and tocotrienols, (also referred to as fullspectrum vitamin E) to get the maximum benefits. The vitamin E most often referred to and sold in most stores is a synthetic form of the vitamin, which really should NOT be used if you want to reap any of its health benefits. You can tell what you're buying by carefully reading the label. Natural vitamin E is always listed as the "d-" form (d-alpha-tocopherol, d-beta-tocopherol, etc.) On the other hand synthetic vitamin E is listed as "dl-" forms. The best way to ensure that your body is getting the full spectrum of vitamin E, in a form your body can beneficially use, is to make smart dietary choices. Good dietary sources of vitamin E include nuts,

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such as hazelnuts, almonds, walnuts, and pecans; seeds such as sunflower seeds; olive oil; legumes; and green vegetables, such as spinach and broccoli.

Vitamin A Vitamin A is an essential fat-soluble vitamin that is important for maintaining healthy skin, teeth, bones, cell membranes, and vision. Vitamin A, like vitamin D, is also essential for your immune system. It’s a precursor to active hormones that regulate the expression of your genes, and vitamin A and D work in tandem. For example, there is evidence that without vitamin D, vitamin A can be ineffective or even toxic. But if you’re deficient in vitamin A, vitamin D cannot function properly either, so a balance of these two vitamins is essential. Unfortunately, we do not yet know the optimal ratios between these two vitamins, which is why it’s best to get them from food and sun exposure, rather than relying on supplements. It’s also important to understand the difference between retinol and beta-carotene. Both are important forms of vitamin A, but it can be very difficult to get sufficient amounts of vitamin A from beta-carotene alone. Unless your intestinal health is top notch, and you eat your veggies with healthy fat, getting your vitamin A in the form of retinol from organic animal products is your best bet, and here’s why. Retinol is preformed vitamin A, found in animal products such as grass-fed meat and poultry, liver, fish, and raw organic dairy products like butter. This is the form of vitamin A your body can actually use. Beta-carotene is pre-vitamin A, found in plant foods like fruits and vegetables. In order for your body to actually use beta-carotene, it must first convert it into retinol, and to do this, you need to have a well-functioning digestive tract and sufficient bile produced by your gallbladder. Specific enzymes are also needed to break down the carotene for the conversion into retinol to occur. Most people have poor gut health, which makes beta-carotene a poor alternative as a primary source of vitamin A. Also, to optimize the usable amount of vitamin A from your vegetables, you need to eat them with a bit of healthy fat, since bile is produced to help break down fat in your diet. Vitamin A production is tightly controlled in your body, the source (substrate) being carotenoids from vegetables in your intestine. Your body uses these carotenoid substrates to make exactly the right amount of retinol. When you take vitamin A as retinol directly, you intervene in this closed system and bypass the controls. Ideally, you want to provide all the vitamin A and vitamin D substrate your body would have obtained in a natural state, so your body can regulate both systems naturally. This is best done by eating colourful vegetables and by exposing your skin to sun every day.

Iodine Iodine is an important nutrient found in every organ and tissue, and many are deficient in this nutrient. Worldwide, it's thought that up to 40 per cent of the population is at risk of iodine deficiency. Along with being essential for healthy thyroid function and efficient metabolism, there is increasing evidence that low iodine is related to numerous diseases, including cancer. Iodine deficiency, or insufficiency, in any of these tissues will lead to dysfunction of that tissue. Hence the following symptoms could provide clues that you're not getting enough iodine in your diet. For example, iodine deficiency in:

! !

Salivary glands: inability to produce saliva, producing dry mouth Skin: dry skin, and lack of sweating. Three to four weeks of iodine supplementation will typically reverse this

symptom, allowing your body to sweat normally again Brain: reduced alertness and lowered IQ.

There are potentially serious risks to taking too much iodine, however, which is why it is generally do not advisable to take large doses of iodine supplements like Lugol's or Iodora long term. Your thyroid only transports iodine in its ionised form (i.e. iodide). As an alternative, toxin-free sea vegetables and spirulina are likely the ideal natural sources from which to obtain your iodine. Raw milk and eggs contain iodine, as well. At the same time, you'll want to avoid all sources of bromine as much as possible, as this appears to play a large role in the rising levels of iodine deficiency.

Iron Iron is essential for human life, as it is a key part of various proteins and enzymes, involved in the transport of oxygen and the regulation of cell growth and differentiation, among many other uses. One of the most important roles of iron is to provide hemoglobin (the protein in red blood cells), a mechanism through which it can bind to oxygen and carry it throughout your tissues, as without proper oxygenation, your cells quickly start dying. If you have too little iron, you may experience fatigue, decreased immunity, or irondeficiency anemia, which can be serious if left untreated. This is common in children and premenopausal women. But, while iron deficiency affects more than a quarter of the global population, it’s equally hazardous to have too much iron, and elevated levels are just as common, or perhaps even more so than iron deficiency, thanks to a hereditary disease known as haemochromatosis, one of the most prevalent genetic diseases in the United States. While I was seeing patients, I regularly screened my patients for ferritin, and noticed nearly one-fourth of them had elevated levels. If you have more iron than what your body needs to satisfy your hemoglobin requirement (for cell oxygenation), the rest becomes a surplus. And since your body has a limited capacity to excrete iron, it can build up in your body, with potentially lethal consequences. Iron is a very potent oxidant stressor. The oxidation caused by too much iron causes dangerous free radicals to form, which can cause significant damage in your cells and increase your risk of heart disease by damaging the inner lining of your blood vessels. It can also damage your DNA and promote diseases like cancer.

CONCLUSION As we work with strategies to achieve skin rejuvenation, it is important to remember that the skin gains its primary nutrients and oxygen from the blood supply. Its nutrition is therefore predominantly governed by a health blood supply that is nutritionally rich. For this reason true rejuvenation cannot be achieve through topical procedures alone, internal health therefore has a great role to play and so attention to nutritional deficiencies will greatly support your client in achieving their treatment goals.

References: Authority Nutrition October 2015 Huffington Post April 30, 2011 World’s Healthiest Foods, Sardines Dermo-Endocrinology 2014: 6(1) NattoPharma 2013 GreenMedInfo December 5, 2012 Nutrients September 27, 2013 Diabetic Medicine December 2013 J Am Coll Nutr December 2006 ADA Diabetes Care October 2, 2013 North American Journal of Medicine and Science June 2013 Carolyn Dean, Gauging Magnesium Deficiency Symptoms

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herbalremedies

ENERGY AND MATCHA TEA by Tina Viney Part of APJ's mission is to bring you valuable news and educational information to help you stay up-to-date with industry developments, business as well as scientific research. We also aim at empowering you with knowledge to make smarter, healthier choices for your own life and those of your clients or patients. This is why we like to include in every issue a profile on an ingredient, nutrient or herb that may be of interest and value to you. The role of the aesthetic therapist is not limited only to skin. Our clients frequently turn to us for advice on weight management, how to feel better and live longer without restrictive diets or major lifestyle changes. While on-going research brings to our attention the benefits of various nutrients and vitamins, at the end it comes down to how well the body absorbs or assimilates these nutrients as to how effective they will be. For this reasons experts often stress that the best way to benefit nutritionally is through quality, whole foods and nutrientrich liquids such as juices and herb teas. While we are all familiar with the benefits of green tea, here is one that is gaining amazing media attention due to recent research findings. The tea in question is Matcha green tea. I was recently

introduced to this incredible tea that left me so impressed both by its validated benefits as well as the experience of taking it. While I enjoy the occasional cup of herb tea I am a self-confessed coffee junky, and this is not just about the flavour â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I need the stimulus it gives me to help me get through my often frenetically busy days. However, Matcha is different. It is both nutrient-rich with 10 times more antioxidants than a regular cup of green tea, while also a stimulant, so let's take a closer look at it.

WHAT'S DIFFERENT ABOUT MATCHA GREEN TEA? Matcha is finely ground powder of specially grown and processed green tea. It's special in two aspects of farming and processing: The green tea plants for Matcha are shade-grown for about three weeks before harvest, and the stems and veins are removed in processing. In modern times, Matcha has also come to be used to flavour and dye foods such as mochi and soba noodles, green tea ice cream and a variety of wagashi (Japanese confectionery). The former is often referred to as ceremonialgrade Matcha, meaning that the Matcha powder is good enough for the tea ceremony. The latter is referred to as culinary-grade Matcha. However, there is no standard industry definition or requirements for either. Different Matcha manufacturers might provide their own definitions. Blends of Matcha are given poetic names called chamei ("tea names") either by the producing plantation, shop or creator of the blend, or by the grand master of a particular tea tradition. When a blend is named by the grand master of a tea ceremony lineage it becomes known as the master's konomi, or favoured blend.

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The tea's power is so superior to regular green tea because the entire leaves are dissolved in water rather than steeped in bags. Instead of throwing away the leaves, you ingest all their antioxidant powers. Green tea has long been considered a beverage with many health benefits. Matcha green tea, however, is a super-strength version that is 10 times more nutritionally dense than regular green tea and that is only the beginning. Matcha green tea comes in a powder form and when combined with water it releases its benefits much quicker as nothing is thrown away.

High- powered antioxidant protection Antioxidants protect your body from free radical damage that can lead to many serious diseases like cancer and heart disease. They also have an important role to play in detoxifying your body, maintaining your immune system and protecting your eyes and skin from free radical ageing. Green tea is recognised as a great source of antioxidants, but powdered Matcha green tea is much more powerful. In fact, Matcha green tea benefits include having one of the highest antioxidant ORAC ratings of any food or drink ever measured. A foods ORAC or Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity score measures its antioxidant concentration and ability to extinguish free radicals. Matcha has an ORAC rating of 1384 TE/g, which is even higher than the much hyped Acai berries at 1027 TE/g. Among its many beneficial antioxidants, one of the most important in Matcha green tea is Epigallocatechin gallate, more commonly called EGCG. High-quality Matcha has been measured as having an incredible 137 times more EGCG than regular green tea.

on the brain and even help improve the quality of your sleep.

Blood Cleansing Chlorophyll The traditional method of harvesting the tea leaves for Matcha production sees them shaded for several weeks prior to harvesting. This increases the health benefits of Matcha green tea compared to regular green tea significantly, particularly in L-Theanine levels, but also in chlorophyll concentrations. Chlorophyll is an amazing nutrient with many health benefits. It is highly alkaline and known to help balance pH levels in your blood. A powerful detoxifier with anti-bacterial and even antioxidant properties, chlorophyll is the main reason why wheatgrass is considered so healthy. Matcha green tea is much nicer to drink though and a good source of blood-cleansing chlorophyll. I wouldn’t worry too much about having expensive wheatgrass shots at juice bars when you’re drinking Matcha green tea regularly.

Matcha green tea antioxidant levels comparison

• • • •

6.2 times that of Goji Berries 7 times that of Dark Chocolate 17 times that of Wild Blueberries 60.5 times that of Spinach

It also contains many other important catechins such as epicatechin, epigallocatechin and epicatechin gallate, as well as flavonoids like kaempferol, quercetin and myricetin. All of these antioxidants work in synergy within your body to help provide the many health benefits of Matcha green tea. Here is a closer look at some of its therapeutic componants:

Balancing L-Theanine Like all teas from the Camellia Sinensis plant, Matcha contains some caffeine. A half teaspoon serve usually has around 35 mg of caffeine, which is well under half the caffeine of an average coffee at 80 – 120 mg. There are two unusual reasons though why the caffeine in Matcha green tea provides a much more balanced and even relaxing energy than the jittery rush of a cup of coffee. The first is the high levels of catechins found in the powdered leaves of the young green tea plant. These extremely healthy antioxidants tend to bind with the caffeine molecule in Matcha powder and slow down its release into your bloodstream. This leads to a much gentler and more sustained release of caffeine that is less likely to raise cortisol levels too high and lead to body tension or anxiety. The second is a unique amino acid called L-Theanine. Found primarily in the tea plant, L-Theanine levels are massively increased in Matcha green tea versus regular tea by keeping the young green tea leaves in shade before harvesting them. This also gives Matcha its naturally sweet and almost creamy green tea flavour. The health benefits of L-Theanine are so significant it has become a popular supplement in its own right, but far and away the best way to get LTheanine into your diet is by drinking a cup of natural Matcha green tea. L-Theanine has been observed in scientific studies to stimulate alpha brain wave production. Maintaining alpha brainwaves leads to a relaxed state of mental clarity and calm alertness more often associated with meditation practice.

MATCHA TEA BENEFITS TO HEALTH Several studies have confirmed the benefits of Matcha to overall health but more specifically studies have supported its benefits in the following:

Cancer Preventor As previously discussed, green tea contains potent antioxidants called catechins, which scavenge for dangerous free radicals in the body. The most powerful catechin found in green tea is EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate), which is believed to be a powerful anti-carcinogen. A 2003 University of Colorado study confirmed that drinking one cup of Matcha green tea has 137 times the amount of antioxidant EGCG compared to a conventional cup of green tea.

Anti-ageing

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One of the locales in the world where people live the longest is Okinawa, Japan. The Okinawan people's longevity has been partly attributed to regular consumption of Matcha tea. Matcha green tea is the most popular green tea in Japan, but is rapidly gaining more popularity throughout the world because of its ability to combat inflammation, oxidation and therefore offering excellent ageing benefits.

L-Theanine also directly counteracts any overstimulation of cortisol or adrenaline by caffeine. This can lead to a long-lasting and sustained energy and ability to concentrate, without the rush and crash of strong coffee or energy drinks.

Lowers LDL "Bad" Cholesterol

More research has found L-Theanine can help to lower high blood pressure, enhance memory and cognitive abilities, have a protective effect

A 2011 study featured in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition demonstrated that administration of Matcha green tea beverages or extracts significantly lowered serum total cholesterol and LDL cholesterol

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fibre. The benefits of dietary fibre include its ability to ease constipation and stabilise blood sugar levels.

Improved energy Due to its rich antioxidant benefits research has confirmed its positive stimulating benefit in improving both alertness and energy levels.

TIPS TO BETTER YOUR MATCHA EXPERIENCE Matcha green tea is available as a concentrated powder and can be found at health-food stores. If you’d like to try Matcha green tea for yourself there’s a few important things to look for. First, if you’re buying a product for its health benefits like Matcha it makes no sense to be ingesting residual herbicides, pesticides or other potentially damaging chemicals. A healthy Matcha green tea should be certified organic and ideally come from Japan, where the organic certification is of a stricter standard than in the USA or China. Japanese Matcha is also considered the best, and it’s not just about the superior taste. The traditional methods used in Japanese Matcha green tea production and harvesting have been shown to increase the antioxidant levels and significantly raise the amount of L-Theanine and chlorophyll in the tea.

concentrations.

Weight Loss

A 1999 study featured in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition demonstrated that Matcha green tea extract rich in catechins has thermogenic properties and promotes fat oxidation beyond that explained by the tea's caffeine content. It was found that MATCHA GREEN TEA consuming Matcha green tea increased thermogenesis (the body's rate of burning ANTIOXIDANT LEVELS COMPARISON calories) from 8-10% to 35-43% of daily energy expenditure. * 6.2 times that of Goji Berries Another study demonstrated that exercising immediately after drinking Matcha green tea resulted in 25% more fat burning during exercise.

* 7 times that of Dark Chocolate * 17 times that of Wild Blueberries * 60.5 times that of Spinach

Both studies suggest Matcha green tea can enhance both resting metabolic rate and fat burning.

Detoxifier Matcha is grown in the shade, which is why it is richer in chlorophyll than other green teas. Chlorophyll is the pigment responsible for giving leaves their green colour. Chlorophyll is purported to detoxify the body, but this has yet to be scientifically proven. I wanted to mention it because of its supposed ability to clear the body of toxins, heavy metals, poisons, dioxins and hormone disrupters.

To make Matcha tea properly like the Japanese do you use a small whisk and froth it up first. Simply put half or 1/4 teaspoon in a mug, pour hot but not boiling water over it and stir it briskly. It’s recommended to turn your kettle off a little before it boils and let it sit for a minute so the sediment settles before pouring it into the cup to make Matcha. This tea has a natural delicate sweetness and it’s best enjoyed without sweetener, however, if you would like a little extra sweetness try a single drop of Stevia or even better, Natvia, which should provide more than enough.

COST VERSUS BENEFIT You may be surprised to find that a small pack of or organic Matcha green tea can cost you $30 - $40. However, bear in mind that it is highly concentrated so it will last you a long time. Furthermore, the benefits are wellworth the investment. Serving a cup of Matcha to your staff after lunch will help perk their energy levels and improve their performance. Now that alone is worth investing in it.

References Mind Improver Matcha green tea contains up to five times more L-theanine than conventional green tea. L-theanine is an amino acid with psychoactive properties, capable of inducing alpha wave activity in the brain. Stress is known to induce the brain's beta wave activity, leading to a more agitated state. Alpha wave activity can relieve stress, promote relaxation and even lower blood pressure. Although Matcha contains some caffeine, the relaxing properties of Ltheanine counterbalance the "jittery" effects of caffeine. Therefore, a cup of Matcha green tea promotes concentration and clarity of mind without producing any of the nervous energy typically associated with coffee.

Fibre

1. 2. 3. 4.

http://living-qi.com http://www.matchasource.com/matcha-tea-health-benefitss/14.htm www.thenibble.com Xin-Xin Zheng, Yan-Lu Xu, et al. Green tea intake lowers fasting serum total and LDL cholesterol in adults: a meta-analysis of 14 randomized controlled trials Am J Clin Nutr August 2011. Abdul G Dulloo, Claudette Duret, et al. Efficacy of a green tea extract rich in catechin polyphenols and caffeine in increasing 24-h energy expenditure and fat oxidation in humans. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, Vol. 70, No. 6, 1040-1045, December 1999 http://www.doctoroz.com/videos/3-surprising-ways-breakthrough-your-weight-loss-plateau

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Matcha green tea leaves contain a high level of easily-absorbable dietary 0

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