APJ Vol 24 2015

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2015

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal

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The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Autumn Issue Volume 24. 2015

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Autumn Issue Volume 24.

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Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

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DEVICES DEVELOPED TO MEET LOCAL NEEDS

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WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS. WE LOOK FORWARD TO BEING YOUR PARTNER. Call or email SKIN FACTORS - Progressive Solutions for your obligation-free info and sample kit.

TOLL FREE 1800 824 282 E: info@christina-cosmeceuticals.com.au W: www.christina-cosmecuticals.com.au

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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9 Heart-2-Heart 16-17 APAN Memberships 52-53 Product Innovations 78-81 Aesthetic Industry Bulletin 88-91 Scientific News

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REGULATIONS, EDUCATION & TRAINING 18-19 Harmony – the new Gold Ration for Beauty 22 Government-funding for Qualifications 30-33 Psychodermatology – More than skin deep 37 Advanced Dermal Needling Masterclass 45 Medical Cosmetic Tattooing – Post-graduate Workshop – 3D Nipple Areola (Brisbane) 61 Medical Cosmetic Tattooing Post-graduate Workshop Advanced Eyebrow and Eyeliner Techniques (Sydney) 66-67 Should you be enrolling for the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)?

101 Tax Help – Getting your business off to a good start

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 34-36 The Driving Force Behind Rejuvenation 46-48 Man on a mission – Unlocking the molecular mechanism of ageing 82-84 The Amazing Properties of Ginseng 98-100 The new focus on the eyes – Eyebrow Extensions 105-107 Anxiety – the 21st Century Disorder and the power of Aromatherapy 108-111 The role of sleep in beauty and health 116-119 Travel and Healthy Skin, Health Body 120-122 Retinol – the Cell-to-cell communicator

BUSINESS AND PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 26-28 The Transformation of In Therapy Skin & Body 38-39 The Importance of Formalising your Business Relations with your Medical Practitioner 40-41 Stepping back from Micromanaging 56-57 Building a robust business through the Art of Etiquette 62-64 Ridiculously discounted services and how to compete and win 72-75 Madison Beauty IPL & Dermal Therapies – Raising the bar in Aesthetic Therapies 86-87 The Professional Approach to Social Media 92-97 Business News & International Aesthetics Calendar 114-115 What are the double letters in cosmetics? ㄰

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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 42-44 APAN Aesthetics Conference – Brisbane 58-60 APAN Aesthetics Conference – Sydney 85 APAN Aesthetics Conference 2015 102-104 National LCMC delivers another successful conference in Melbourne

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EDITOR’SNOTE

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THE POWER OF CHANGE Well, 2015 is definitely under way as we enter the third month and I trust that it will be an exceptional year for you. As we contemplate the future it really matters not if last year we experienced failures or successes, or both. What matters now is what lies ahead, and what outcomes we achieve this year will be determined by what lies within us. I say this first to myself and then to everyone else, because I don't believe I can ask anyone to do anything that is not part of my reality as well.

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Inner fortitude is ultimately what will make the difference when we hit difficult patches in life and business, and we all know– that is part of life's reality.

There is so much talk about fitness – physical fitness, which is so important in helping us maintain a healthy body and a positive frame of mind, but what about mental and emotional wellbeing? I personal recognise the importance of inner strength in helping me maintain the momentum I need to stay on track with my goals and to overcome challenges, whatever those challenges may be. You can have the best plans, goals and intentions, but it is that inner belief system that will ultimately pull you through.

I really believe that sometimes life loves to be taken by the lapel and told, “I'm with you, kid. Let's go”. Growing any business requires that we embrace new ideas, new technologies and position ourselves just that little bit different than last year – looking ahead towards progress and achievement, while not losing our sense of humour and our ability to not take life and problems too seriously.

Progress and change go hand-in-hand. Leo Tolstoy once said, “Everyone thinks of changing the world, but few think of changing themselves”. Self-improvement should be at the heart of every plan for growth. Indeed, we should not neglect our own wellbeing and development while focusing on the need of others.

Change should not be feared! And it won't if it is viewed as the mechanism that will help us become stronger and better equipped to achieve our dreams and goals. One way to achieve positive change is by increasing our knowledge and our education.

One of the great pleasures in life is doing something that others said you couldn't do. They hold that position because they measure us on our past limitations. But knowledge changes us – we are no longer the same as before. We have grown stronger through a new understanding of how to do things better, new tools to help us achieve more in less time, and a new-found optimism that will give us the stamina to reach higher in our achievements than previously possible.

In this issue of APJ you will discover great information of how our industry is evolving. New educational pathways and conference programs are constantly opening up with the potential to empower our mindset and change what we do for the better. Make the decision to be part of a success story because you made the decision to embrace change not just for your business, but also for you as an individual. ㄰

May you have the best year yet.

Follow Tina on

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APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

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AESTHETIC

http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page

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Editor Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

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Welcome to APJ

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Typesetting & Graphics

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Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Shop7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable

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Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Spectrum Science & Beauty Phone: 1300 766 198

Journal Advisory Board

www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au

Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

For further information see pages 14-15, also inside back cover.

National Advisory Council

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-981 ㈵

FRONT COVER

Print Post Approved [100000257]

Circulation 6900

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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Heart-to-Heart A message from the President and CEO Dear Colleagues and Friends This year has started with some amazing new developments that I am excited to share with you. Many of them have to do with up-skilling and education, as Australia is stepping up its delivery of skills and knowledge to meet with global trends. These trends are important to note as they are impacting on consumers and changing the shape of the aesthetics industry not just globally, but also here in Australia .

Some of the recent data I have examined is eye-opening as each report presented a unique perspective that tells a powerful story for those forging a place in the market. Viewing the various points of view from local Australian reports to the international ones, I can honestly say that they have certain similarities, but also can vary in predictions. In my opinion no-one gets it totally right, so in determining a trend I tend to examine various markets that are showing repeat patterns as I believe this is where the most fundamental truths lie, and in particular for the Australian consumer reality.

At the recent Cosmoprof North America the theme of one conference was Look Back, Look Ahead, Look Within. I will not go into trends in this report as if I start I will not cover anything else, suffice to say that our industry is making some amazing advances that include looking inward to identify answers that will help us achieve better and more sustainable results. This is because as consumers are paying more for our services they don't just want results, they want those results to also last beyond the next facial. If we are looking at achieving this level of results we will need to employ a multidisciplinary approach – looking at underlying factors such as stress, inflammation and toxicity at a deeper physiological level to get our answers, and so the need for education that is advanced and more comprehensive is essential.

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We are delighted to announce that through our various initiatives APAN has grown and we are moving to new larger premises that can allow us to expand. The new premises are located near the Robina Town Centre on the Gold Coast. The new corporate building features nine offices and a large boardroom that will allow us to facilitate a great deal more this year. Our new address is Unit 7D, 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina Q 4226. Our phone number and email address will remain the same, so you can contact us in the same way as previously.

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BUSINESS INDUSTRY SKILLS FUND, NEW OPPORTUNITY FOR GOVERNMENT-FUNDED QUALIFICATIONS

Last year APAN was involved as a lead organisation in applying for

government funding for businesses to train staff through formal government-approved qualifications. The initiative was through the National Workforce Development Fund and we were successful in getting 125 therapists qualified in the Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction, with applicants coming in from every State. APAN was commended by Service Skills Australia, with whom we worked closely to secure the funding for these students, and while we did experience several challenges to get applicants to commit to their training, the end result was very successful, and to quote a response from a Service Skills representative, “The APAN project has been one of our most successful projects, with a near nil withdrawal rate. Thanks for putting this together, Tina, the businesses involved have seen a real benefit from this opportunity.” As a result Service Skills Australia put forward a positive recommendation for APAN to be reconsidered in 2015 for any new funding initiatives.

This year we are applying to the Business Industry Skills Fund for funding approval for salon and business owners who can apply for the following government-approved qualifications:

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SIB 50210 Diploma of Salon Management SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in Intense Pulsed Light and Laser Hair Reduction 10038NATGraduate Certificate of Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies (skin rejuvenation and tattoo removal)

If you would like to apply for funding for any of the above qualifications please contact APAN by email with the following information: Your full name, State, email address, phone number and which qualifications you would like to apply for, and we will send you the appropriate information to be included in our submission.

The good news is that this year the Government is funding up to 75% of the training. This is not VET FEE Help so it will not need to be returned at a late stage. We also anticipate that by the end of the year there will be further units developed within the Training Package that will provide additional options for gaining formal qualifications.

The other good news is that the Australasian College of Health and Wellness is now taking enrolments for the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics). This is an amazing new Degree that has been fully approved by TEQSA (Tertiary Education Quality Standards Agency), which is the Australian national regulatory body responsible for regulating all types of tertiary education.

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“In your hands you hold the seeds of failure or the potential for greatness. Your hands are capable, but they must be used for the right things to reap the rewards you are capable of attaining. The choice is yours.”

Zig Ziglar KEEP THESE DATES IN YOUR DIARY The APAN Aesthetics Conference program this year will be once again staging three conferences designed to deliver excellent educational and business information. The content of these events are powerful and aim to empower you with new knowledge on how to face your profession and business with greater confidence. Please prioritise to attend as many of these events that you can, as each one will have a different program. Full speaker programs for Brisbane and Sydney are available in this journal on pages 42 and 58. The three locations and dates are: BRISBANE: Sunday 3lst May SYDNEY: Sunday 21st June MELBOURNE: 18th October For our Cosmetic Tattooists we will be conducting post-graduate training programs both in Brisbane and Sydney directly after the APAN Conferences. These are certified training programs for qualified Cosmetic Tattooists who wish to further their training and education in medical cosmetic tattooing procedures. Please check these programs in this journal on pages 45 and 61.

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If you are a financial member of APAN we urge you to attend as many of our conference programs as possible. They are designed to help boost your knowledge and skills and offer you new tools to move ahead with great confidence. As a member you can attend at a SPECIAL MEMBER'S RATE. Additionally, they are fun environments where you can network with other like-minded therapists and colleagues as well as meet some amazing supply companies with new products and services to help you grow your business.

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If you are an industry professional and would like to join as an APAN member we invite you to give us a call and let us know what your needs are and find out how we can help you solve problems and save money as well.

We are here for you.

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LIQUID GOLD – The Original Acid Toner Alpha-H has always defended the 'tingle'. The creation of their iconic acid exfoliant Liquid Gold in 2000 initially left some feeling a little cautious. Fast-forward 15 years and Liquid Gold is now a global phenomenon, an award-winning cult classic that regularly features as a beauty editor’s ‘top pick’ in leading publications.

Long before it became an international success and beauty must-have, Liquid Gold began life as the brainchild of Michelle Doherty, director and owner of Australian professional skincare brand Alpha-H. Having suffered with a debilitating skin condition throughout her teens and 20s, Michelle began a quest to develop a product which – instead of acting as a temporary salve or quick fix – would actively challenge the skin from within; forcing it to function more effectively and delivering powerful natural ingredients to target every key skincare issue - from signs of ageing and sun damage to acne and pigmentation.

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Refusing to compromise on her vision of a product that could bridge the gulf between the cosmetic counter and cosmetic surgeon, Michelle turned to groundbreaking dermatologist research into the benefits of glycolic acid, a naturally occurring organic acid which, when combined with a low pH delivery system, triggers increased fibroblast activity, helping to spike the skin's own production of hyaluronic acid and collagen: to deliver a smoother, firmer, brighter, much more hydrated complexion.

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As the formula was perfected through a series of prototypes, the only thing outstanding was a name that could suitably encapsulate this anti-

ageing lightning bolt in a bottle. When she heard a friend, a fellow beauty industry professional, was considering Botox, Michelle impulsively asked her to try the product first and the very next morning the feedback was unequivocal. “That stuff is amazing,” her friend enthused… “It's Liquid Gold…!”

Today Liquid Gold is Alpha-H's top-selling product with one sold every minute globally. Worldwide recognition and praise from the beauty elite has helped propel it into the spotlight. There has also been a shift in people's attitudes towards acid toners. “People are realising that 'acid' is not a dirty word in the context of skincare. It is perfectly fine; in fact, it is good to challenge the skin with AHAs in measured quantities. If the skin is not challenged, then you will never really see a change in it. At Alpha-H we applaud the tingle,” explains Doherty.

This year marks the 15th anniversary of Liquid Gold and Alpha-H is celebrating with a yearlong campaign called “Liquid Gold Love Affair”.

Among the festivities, glamorous gold-themed cocktail parties, fabulous prizes for Liquid Gold lovers and the transformation of black London cabs into Liquid Gold cabs.

Being Alpha-H's top-selling product, going all out was the only option for this milestone. “This year is all about Liquid Gold and our 15th love affair with it. We are celebrating in style”, says Doherty.

For further information on introducing Alpha-H products to your business contact 1800 659 777 or Ph: 07 5529 4866

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www.alpha-h.com

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Local intelligence

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“The business started off in tanning and now as we have moved into more high-tech equipment we're focused on the crossover into medical applications as well as therapeutic and beauty,” he says. The Spectrum offering has recently expanded to include specialised medical machines, such as doctor-only operated devices for highpowered tattoo removal and a CO2 laser.

RESPONSIVE APPROACH “We take a lot of feedback from our customers and hear what they have to say.

From this information we gauge the specific areas for improvement, as we are constantly reviewing and testing new technologies” Skeggs says.

Keen market analysis and agile adaptation has enabled Spectrum Science & Beauty to extend its customer base along with its offerings.

When corporate businessman Ben Skeggs bought former tanning – product distributor Wear Nothing in 2013 it was in its equipment division that he saw potential for growth.

“I bought the business as a developer and supplier of beauty equipment, but I knew we could substantially improve on its current technologies as well as its service, to offer greater value to current and future customers,” he says.

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“There was already some infrastructure in place, but I identified several areas where changes could be implemented to improve standards and service.” He immediately merged both the beauty and machinery distribution divisions and rebranded the company as Spectrum Science & Beauty.

His next step was to leverage the company's traditional customer base, primarily beauty salons and small clinics, into equipment investors by cannily providing devices that met their requirements: an economically viable price point, capable of operation by non-medical professionals, compact size and, often, combined applications.

He explains that he is about to visit Europe to review industry advances and identify opportunities to refine and improve the scope of treatments that Spectrum equipment can deliver. Adapting devices to meet customer demand is part of the company's market approach. “We've upgraded our IPL device to incorporate a better cooling system so our new machines will run all day.” Along with the TEC cooling system, Spectrum adapted the handpiece to ergonomically improve operator comfort and the speed to enable effective hair-removal treatment in larger areas, such as men's backs. Bundling modalities is another strategy that has proved effective.

“Another machine we were first to introduce to the market were LED machines that combine light therapy with microdermabrasion skin resurfacing and vacuum radio-frequency skin tightening in one machine,” Skeggs says. The multiple modalities provide a three-in-one face treatment, “targeting smaller salons and clinics where space is limited”, he explains, “and can be combined as a package treatment”, plus the device is affordable for smaller businesses.

Reading local market demand dictates Spectrum's direction and innovations. “Our new device, the Dana Explore with fractional RF for anti-ageing treatments, we see as a huge growth area. It's very effective and results last up to five years, with very little downtime

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compared to fractional laser, and without the same need for sun avoidance,” Skeggs says, saying that Australian consumers seek quick and effective treatments for improving skin quality, without the need for extended downtime.

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These cultural changes didn't happen overnight. “We brought in people with expertise and a service focus, as well external consultants to look at how we could improve service turnaround if there was an issue with one of the machines.”

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“To achieve this we introduced a new engineering service team and regional operatives capable of trouble-shooting in each State. We introduced contracts for technical service. It's our policy to turn things around as quickly as possible.”

GROWING RELATIONSHIPS Skeggs believes that dialogue with customers and a value offer on equipment are as important as service support. “It's an ongoing relationship.

We consider our customers our partners and we help them to grow their businesses. We help them with marketing, price lists and putting together packages, developing their expertise at running their businesses effectively. At headquarters we have eight full-time staff dedicated to dealing with our customers.”

This support spans everything from training- proficiency to advanced levels – to point of sale and marketing collateral, and software for maximising and growing client bases. A Certified Practitioner Finder list on the Spectrum website and the proprietary marketing system Engage further underpin the partnership relationship with its customers.

“We don't sell them the equipment if we don't see that it will benefit their business. We're prepared to send them to a competitor instead,” Skeggs insists.

“We want our customers to benefit.”

He says that in addition to engaging in a beachside culture that engenders damaged skin through lifestyle exposure to the elements, and a healthy concern with appearance, Australian consumers are quick to adopt new technologies and are prepared to do the research to learn about them.

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That means that in order to meet local demand his company has to evolve to incorporate new developments and deliver them to the Spectrum customer base.

Staying in touch with market trends and consumer expectations Skeggs has been quick to adapt and develop new offerings that are competitively priced, with multifunctional features and combined technologies in support and for the growth of his traditional customer base. With these advances he is now targeting the broader medical market sector as he isn't afraid of embracing internal changes. In fact, he says, Spectrum Science & Beauty functions better in its new incarnation than the old organisation ever did.

ETHICS OF THE COMPANY “One of the big things that have changed is the values and ethics within the company,” he states. “Our relationship with APAN has been invaluable as we have been guided on issues relating to industry standards of practice and ethics, as well as gained valuable industry intelligence on the current state of the industry and how we can position ourselves in support of its progress and credibility.”

“We now have more stability in terms of people and processes, quality of product, external relationships with suppliers, partners in Australia and training schools.”

If it sounds as if Skeggs has reinvented his company over the past two years it's probably true, both in terms of infrastructure and services as well as the equipment offering, but he is determined to keep the Spectrum message simple.

“Everything comes back to quality and service, doing the little things to achieve the bigger goals,” he shrugs, before heading off to Europe to scope out the next big thing in treatments and scaling it to allow for easy deployment to match local market demand.

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Skeggs may be keeping one or two trade secrets, but the key to Spectrum's ongoing success is fairly obvious – its flexibility and speed of response to industry demand.

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Contact Spectrum Science & Beauty Phone: 1300 766 198 www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au

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WHY DO PROFESSIONALS AND BUSINESSES JOIN APAN?

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THE PREMIER BODY THAT ASTUTE PROFESSIONALS & BUSINESSES CHOOSE

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ACCESS TO LEADING INDUSTRY EXPERTS IN: ! Industrial Relations ! Wage Rates ! Best Business Solutions ! Coaching & Mentoring ! Legal Advice ! Discounted Services ! Marketing Strategies

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“APAN is the professional body I turn to when I am in need of guidance and advice. It’s simple, they save me time, money and minimise my stress. Why go anywhere else when I can go to LEADING EXPERTS at no additional fees.”

Jane Boyle, W.A, Salon owner

GOLD MEMBERSHIP CLASSIFICATIONS

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Gold Membership for Individuals and Smaller Enterprises

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Gold Membership (Degree) also has a classification for Degree-qualified Nurses and Dermal Therapists

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Gold Membership (Medical) is also available to Cosmetic Medical Practitioners

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APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES

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Education | Consumer Trends | Industry innovations | Strategic thinking

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THE STRONG VOICE REPRESENTING YOU WITH GOVERNMENT

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SERVING AND SHAPING THE NEXT GENERATION OF INDUSTRY LEADERS

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DOING BUSINESS BETTER, HELP WITH: ! Regulatory compliance issues ! Best Code of Ethics ! Risk Management Strategies ! Latest Consumer Trends ! Strategies for Better Money Management ! Successful Strategies for Profit Growth

“When I need expert advice on industry intelligence, trends and regulatory issues that could affect my business I go to APAN as the preferred experts. Their information is always up-to-date and accurate.”

John Jackson, NSW Practice Manager

CORPORATE PLATINUM CLASSIFICATIONS

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Corporate Platinum Membership for five or more staff

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Corporate Platinum Plus Membership for those who want a full business and marketing package and in-depth consultation.

This category includes a fully designed and optimised mobile website, monthly progress reports on your activities as well as a complete coaching and marketing service. We work with you to develop your marketing strategy through a comprehensive marketing plan aimed at helping businesses increase their profits and grow.

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THE ONE-STOP-SHOP FOR INDUSTRY-SPECIFIC GUIDANCE, ADVICE AND SERVICE

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APAN – AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK Please contact us for further details Ph: 07 5593 0360 | Email: info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com to download an Application Form

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HARMONY – the new Gold Ratio for Beauty In Aesthetic Enhancement and Cosmetic Tattooing

By Christine Comans There is a biological assumption that symmetrical faces are intrinsically more beautiful than faces with uneven features. The proportions of the length of the nose, the position of the eyes and the length of the chin all conform to some aspect of the golden ratio. Believe it or not, there is maths behind this theory and the symmetry of your face can be measured.

The closer this number is to 1.62, the more beautiful it is supposed to be. The simplest measurement is the length of your face divided by the widest part of your face.

other, after all it's our irregularities that make us individuals.

Harmony on the other hand allows us to find a balance without

THE GOLDEN RATIO

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The golden ratio is also known as phi (Φ) in Geometry, Fibonacci numbers in India, feng shui in Asia, and divine proportion.

This ratio 1.62 is nature's symmetry and occurs naturally in life. Da Vinci used it when he drew the perfect human male body. Dr Stephen Marquartdt developed a facial mask as a measurement of classic beauty to help plastic surgeons align facial features for more symmetrical accuracy based on a series of rectangles, triangles and decagons. Although in cosmetic tattoo symmetry is not always the answer, and surely our patients don't all want to be clones of each

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detracting from your patients' individuality. Most importantly, symmetry in the face does not necessarily equate to beauty, and often

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faces that are perceived as beautiful are usually not even close to being perfect in symmetry.

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It is as much about beauty as self-reflection, what beauty is to each individual. It's the perception of one's self and you will discover it to be a peculiar situation. Sometimes we need to ask what that person sees when they look in the mirror to determine what is the reality of what is looking back at them.

THE AGEING FACE Progressive changes occurring throughout life in the soft tissues of the face will cause more prominent facial asymmetry, especially in older clients. Often as cosmetic tattooists we contemplate daily that perception is not reality as we endeavour to provide the perfect eyebrow shape, balance and design while aiming to achieve symmetry for our clients, when the reality of this perfect outcome depends on facial muscles and face shape, remembering that facial symmetry is a valid marker of cognitive ageing. As cosmetic tattooists these are issues we need to consider when determining lip or eyebrow design.

It is also important to consider that the human face is affected by movement and facial expressions. There are therefore many elements to consider when considering our emphasis for harmony when working with these features.

HARMONY PRINICIPLES IN BREAST RECONSTRUCTION As a medical tattooist I am also well aware that the plastic and reconstructive breast surgeons have their own symmetrical equations for the perfect measurement when reconstructing a woman's breast after mastectomy. Even though this equation exists in reconstructive surgery, it is often hard to achieve due to the complexities of the different types of breast-reconstruction surgery. So the harmony concept works well when applied for nipple-areola complex tattooing.

Depending on the type of surgery the patient has undergone their procedure may be a little challenging when you are presented with unilateral mastectomy patients that have chosen not to undergo nipple reconstruction. Often both breasts are asymmetrical, so my position is not to strive for symmetry when tattooing, but strive for harmony. Yes, harmony is my mantra because we can provide harmony and balance when symmetry is often not achievable as we often cannot position an exact measurement. An example of this is unilateral mastectomy, and reconstruction patients that may have their new breast mound recreated using autologous tissue often from their back or abdomen with

the other breast often has had mastoplexy (breast lift). As a result both breasts are asymmetrical so harmony is the preferred option for these patients.

Often positioning a new nipple-areola complex is about finding harmony between the breasts, not symmetry, especially for women that have not had a nipple reconstruction. In this situation the medical tattooist is not afforded the convenience of having the nipple location predetermined by the surgeon. So it is up to the medical tattooist to locate the new position, and often this can be difficult with asymmetrical breasts, so striking harmony is what we need to achieve.

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ESTABLISHING GOOD COMMUNICATION Our role as cosmetic tattooists is to listen to our patients and discuss what is achievable by imparting our knowledge and experience, then explaining in detail to the clients what is to be expected from the procedure we are performing, thus dispelling unrealistic expectations.

Achieving harmony is quintessential in achieving positive patient outcomes.

If you are a cosmetic tattooist APAN now have a membership classification for you, visit www.apanetwork.com. If you are a cosmetic tattooist please join our community of practice as a Gold Member. Please indicate that you are a Cosmetic Tattooist and this classification will feature on your membership Certificate. You will receive the same benefits as an APAN Gold Member with special support and training opportunities in Cosmetic Tattooing.

MEDICAL COSMETIC TATTOO TRAINING Christine Comans will also be conducting a training program in medical cosmetic tattooing as part of the APAN Brisbane Conference Program. The Medical Cosmetic Tattoo Training will be conducted for a full day on 1st June 2015 in Brisbane.

If you are interested please register now as positions are limited.

Visit www.apanetwork.com and complete a registration form or phone 07 5503 0360 for further details.

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APJ 67

productlaunch ㄰

Launching the first multi-functional treatment for eyes and lashes

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SKEYNDOR'S POWER HYALURONIC EYES + LASHES

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A first in global treatment to lift eyelids, strengthen lashes and intensely firm the eye contour

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Using a potent, active and pioneering formula, Skeyndor launches a first in the world of beauty, Power Hyaluronic Eyes + Lashes.

Lashes are then strengthened with a specialised gel of GHK Biotine, a powerful peptide to encourage collagen synthesis and Pro-Vitamin B5 to boost lash density.

Mimicking an eye lift (without surgery) and transforming with technology fresh from Skeyndor R + D, their latest treatment achieves what no other can. It strengthens and enhances the lashes so they appear more dense and youthful, then it takes charge to uplift eyelids and intensely firm the eye area. In addition, it smartly addresses puffiness, dark circles and depth of wrinkles to leave the eyes refreshed and rejuvenated, way beyond expectations.

The treatment session finishes with an application of Illuminating Wrinkle Repair Cream to diffuse lines and wipe out crepiness on contact. It contains Hyaluronic Acid, Oats to diminish dryness and flakiness and age-fighting Hamamelis. Treatment time: 45 minutes. RRP $75.

THE TREATMENT

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The Power Hyaluronic Eyes + Lashes begins with a cleansing of the eye area, followed by a massage incorporating specific lifting techniques. The massage cream uses a combination of actives of Darutoside, a powerful regenerator, antiinflammatory and detoxifier - Silk Tree to significantly reduce the signs of fatigue and weakened collagen fibres that are usually as a result of glycation, and Centella Asiatica that also works to improve circulation, soothe and calm as well as minimise puffy under-eye area. The treatment continues with the Skeyndor Comfort Mask Veil to soothe, repair and refresh the eye contour. The Mask is charged with Blue Lotus to speedily hydrate and balance, cooling Aloe and Clorella Vulgaris to instantly act on firmness, dark circles and tone.

TAKE-HOME PRODUCT To maintain results at home Skeyndor recommends the new Power Hyaluronic Cooling Eye Contour & Eyelashes Gel, RRP $75.

With the spotlight on beautiful eyes, this treatment is a must-have for eclectic salons and clinics that can guarantee their clients the very best in treatment experience and results. ㄰

Whether as a stand-alone eye and lash beautifying treatment, or incorporated as part of a deluxe anti-ageing treatment POWER HYALURONIC EYES + LASHES offers you the flexibility to introduce a new innovation that is bound to impress your clients.

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APJ 20

POWER RETINOL INTENSIVE REPAIRING FACIAL A SKEYNDOR YES to the Pure Power of Youth

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Just launched, another Skeyndor leading product using an advanced formulation of Retinol (Vitamin A) is creating a great deal of excitement with salons and clinics.

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“Of all the multi-action and double-jointed ingredients on the market, Skeyndor's Pure Retinol formulations are the hardest working. In addition,” comments Luca Mora, CEO of Skeyndor in Australia, “they are transported and delivered deep within the cells for extraordinary results. They will not break down in the presence of sunlight, so no photo-sensitivity issues and, no irritation.”

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That's why Skeyndor has enlisted its proficiency in concentrated form for their latest range, Power Retinol. This exclusive SKEYNDOR formula merges pure Retinol with actives of Bakuchiol and Soy Extract to restore the skin's individual youthful radiance. This potent anti-ageing system boosts the skin's natural cellular regeneration to reveal an infinitely smoother, more even and firmer skin. Simply put, skin looks younger.

This new line-up from the masters in scientific skincare features Intensive Repairing Cream (normal to dry), Intensive Repairing Serum-in-Cream (all skins), Intensive Repairing Emulsion (combination + oily) and of course, a professionally based Intensive Repairing Facial.

Addressing and revitalising sluggish cell turnover, Power Retinol hastens the sloughing off of the top dead layer to create a burst of new cells at the deepest level. But its prowess does not end there. Perfect for the more mature, the not-so-mature, pigmented and oilier/acneic skin conditions, the Skeyndor Power Retinol targets photo-damage, prematurely ageing skin, acne-affected complexions, and thickened skin that refuses to shed. And, it is proven to improve skin structure, reduce inflammation, inhibit collagen breakdown, while also stimulating collagen integrity. The results are a boost of skin radiance for a rejuvenated, fresher and livelier skin and fade and tone down darker spots.

In a world of passing trends, be assured that the Skeyndor highpowered and innovative Power Retinol range delivers on all its promises, addressing and obliterating the most nagging beauty complaints. Skeyndor's Power Retinol is available as a professional treatment range and home-care products to support on-going results and boost your sales figures.

To introduce these treatments and products contact Vogue Image Group, Ph: 1 800 554 545 or visit www.vogueimage.com.au.

Skeyndor's advanced and exacting Power Retinol formulations are also supercharged with impressive top performers – anti-bacterial and talented Bakuchiol to clear the skin, antiinflammatory and skin-whitening benefits and Soy Extract that has a diminishing, softening and smoothing effect on wrinkles, while also tackling sun damage and tightening the skin.

Designed for daily use, both morning and night, Skeyndor's Power Retinol home-care line includes: ! Intensive Repairing Cream, an anti-ageing combination for a rejuvenating effect on wrinkles and dark spots (normal to dry) 50ml RRP $98. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Intensive Repairing Serum-in-Cream, an anti-ageing serum cream formula to diffuse light for an immediate perfecting effect (all skins). 30ml RRP $115.

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Intensive Repairing Emulsion, a lightertextured fluid offering a rejuvenating effect on wrinkling and dark spots for combination + oily skins. 50ml RRP $98.

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APJ 21

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Are you a qualified Beauty Therapist and would like to gain government-funding to UPGRADE YOUR QUALIFICATIONS?

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Last year APAN was approached as a lead organisation to apply for government funding on behalf of industry professionals who wish to improve their skills and knowledge through a government-approved qualification. As part of the National Workforce Development Fund, APAN was successful in securing funding for 125 therapists, who were able to receive 66% of their training fee to complete the SIB70110 Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction.

NEW GOVERNMENT-FUNDING INITIATIVE FOR 2015 We are delighted to announce that in 2015 we are able to once again apply for funding on your behalf through a new government-funded initiative with the objective to support businesses that wish to up-skill and establish a stronger commercial position.

If you would like to be considered for this program we would like you to please apply to APAN. The good news is that this year the Government is paying up to 75% towards training fees for successful applicants.

THE FUNDING IS AVAILABLE FOR THE FOLLOWING QUALIFICATIONS: ! ! !

SIB50210 Diploma of Salon Management SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in Intense Pulsed Light and Laser Hair Reduction 10038NAT Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies (skin rejuvenation and tattoo removal)

Potential applicants must be qualified beauty therapists and must have an ABN number and be in business for at least three years. If you are an employee then your employer can apply for you if they meet with the above criteria.

If you would like to apply for this funding please email APAN info@apanetwork.com

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PLEASE NOTE: THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION MUST BE PROVIDED IN FULL: 1. Your full name and Business Name (you or your employer must be in business for at least three years) 2. Phone number 3. Email address 4. State 5. Address 6. Name which of the above qualifications you would like to apply for.

If you would like to speak to someone prior to applying you will need to phone 07 5593 0360 and ask about the government-funded initiative.

This is not a loan as in VET FEE Help as the Government will outright pay this fee to the training established for approved applications.

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IF YOU REQUIRE FURTHER DETAILS PLEASE PHONE APAN ON 07 5593 0360.

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Another APAN initiative, serving you better

APJ 22

POWER HYALURONIC EYES AND LASHES

Youthful look Stronger Eyelashes 61% Lifting of eyelashes 42% Smoothing contour wrinkles 46% Reducing circles under the eyes A first in global salon treatment innovations and homecare to address all aspects of an ageing eye contour, dramatically lifting eyelids, strengthening and defining lashes and intensely firming.

If you are looking to restore and preserve the youth and definition of the eyes, SKEYNDOR's POWER HYALURONIC EYES + LASHES does just that. This powerful biological professional formula, with its scientifically validated concentration of plant extracts, lifts drooping eyelids, strengthens and boosts lashes and diminishes dark circles.

This is the multi-functional product for eyes and eyelashes you have been waiting for.

To introduce these treatments and products contact Vogue Image Group Ph: 1 800 554 545, or visit www.vogueimage.com.au.

Imagine a year without wrinkles, dark spots, acne or scarring?

With SKEYNDOR'S METICULOUS POWER RETINOL you can

A NEW RETINOL LIKE NO OTHER

]no sensitivity ]no irritation ]just amazing results

This exacting anti-ageing facial program is synergistically formulated to stimulate the skin's natural cellular regeneration process, revealing healthier, fresher and younger-looking skin after just one session. Skin regains its smoothness, firmness, health and radiance without the usual harmful side-effects of redness and irritation that traditionally are associated with the use of Vitamin A, commonly known as retinol.

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The treatment uses concentrated levels of pure Retinol, and anti-oxidants that work together to decrease the depth of lines and wrinkles, refine and resurface. In addition, it targets acne, congestion, scarring, dark spots and environmental damage.

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SKEYNDOR's PURE RETINOL – Leading the market in retinol innovations and results Contact Vogue Image Group Ph: 1 800 554 545 or visit www.vogueimage.com.au.

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Confessions of a FRANCHISE BUSINESS OWNER

By Kerry-Ann Sirovs – Australian Skin Clinics franchisee In a fast-paced and rapidly changing industry the possibility of error or missing valuable opportunities can be financially devastating, particularly in a vulnerable economy. In the aesthetics industry, failing businesses are reaching epidemic hights. Much of this has to do with the complexities that need to be mastered to succeed as a profitable salon or clinic practice. For this reason Franchise business models are emerging offering a more secure business environment with much of the guesswork eliminated and the added benefit of paving the way for exponentially faster business growth.

The Australian Skin Clinics Franchise is a successful business model in aesthetics and the cosmetic medical industry. Its success is a credit to the astute and passionate Founder and Managing Director, Deb Farnworth-Wood, who has developed the Australian Skin Clinic Franchise as one of Australia's fastest-growing franchises. Listed at No.19 in the BRW fastest 100 growing business for 2014 and National Finalist of the FCA Emerging Franchise 2014 Award, Australian Skin Clinics are set for a massive expansion in 2015.

Deb's significant experience lies in business development, acquisition and growth, and these skills have led to the development and success of the Australian Skin Clinics' expansion program. Currently the company is recruiting franchisees for Victoria, Queensland, Sydney and Northern NSW but Deb’s key strategic focus is growth within the existing clinics, customer service, training and development. ㄰ 㤵

In this article we interview Kerry-Ann Sirovs, one of Australian Skin Clinics’ franchisees, who shares with us her experience and what is needed to because a successful franchise business.

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Before I became the franchisee of my Australian Skin Clinics' clinic, my list of must haves included the latest version of the Orton handbag, Guess shoes or Lorna Jayne gym clothes. It is only now that I can reflect and understand what an impact my franchisee journey has had on my life and general perspective.

Kerry-Ann Sirovs Having worked within the cosmetic and laser industry for 20 years, I thought that I knew about everything required to run a successful aesthetic and cosmetic business. I had first-hand industry knowledge, an understanding of what clients wanted and had always considered myself an organised person. The Deb Farnworth-Wood excitement of finally taking that next step to becoming a business owner was overwhelming and I could not wait to get started. Nothing was going to get in my way of becoming my own boss!

I already knew that owning a franchised business was a good investment and it was the only option for me. I understood that buying into a reputable brand with pre-developed systems, quality assurance, major buying power and a sound business model, my path to success would be much simpler. I was going to be an amazing business owner! I knew I could do it, be in charge of my business and team, work the hours that suited me and still have an income, while not working long hours. But I learnt that enthusiasm and business skills were just some of the “must haves” to becoming a successful franchisee. Here is just a little of what I have learnt along the way:

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APJ 24

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PASSION FOR YOUR BRAND Haven't you heard the phrase. “You have to be passionate to be profitable”? They are right, if you love your brand it shows in everything you do; the way you work in the clinic, the way you work with your team and the way your clients interact with your business.

Your enthusiasm leads to your success. You will always create more sales with a team that delivers great client service and a high-quality treatment. The reality is that when you do something you love it stops being work, and your passion and enthusiasm will always rub off on those who work for you. Passionate staff plus happy clients results in continued business. Being an ambassador for the entire franchised brand will also only add to your ongoing rewards.

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EXCELLENT COMMUNICATION SKILLS Communication is the key. To be able to talk is one thing, but to communicate well is another. Communicating is as much about what you see as it is about how you listen. Find your preferred communication medium and master it. Think of your franchise as a car– your staff members are the wheels, and you are the engine. What happens if you are all moving in different directions – the car won't move forward. A business that is not moving forward will not be prosperous.

LEADERSHIP SKILLS I have always considered myself a leader, but to show control and be a leader in your business 24/7 is a different matter. It can be overwhelming, however, leading your team helps create a positive culture, and with a positive culture comes happy staff and ultimately happy clients. No matter what, you can't have a day off from being the leader your staff needs you to be. You can, however, delegate duties and be savvy in your staff recruitment, and all good leaders understand and do this.

excellence is both an advantage and “must have” if you want to fasttrack your business's progress. Clients want to be continually excited and it is human nature to want the next best thing. Being part of a forward-thinking brand that embraces advancement and change has certainly added to my overall success.

HAVING YOUR HAND ON THE PULSE UNDERSTAND WHAT DRIVES YOUR BUSINESS I always take the time to analyse my clinic and set Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) for myself and my staff. This gives me an opportunity to look at where I wanted to be in 12 months' time and set goals on how my team and I are going to get there. From doing this habitually my business performance has consistently improved. We continue to hit the goals we need to hit, giving me more time, more money and a valued team who work well with me.

KNOW YOUR COMPETITORS You will often find me stalking my competitors on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or visiting their newly opened clinic for my next treatment.

It's exciting, it's educational and it always helps to know what your competitors are up to so you can do it better. If they have amazing client service, then your clinic's customer service needs to be a level higher.

Always understand your point of difference and promote that to each and every client that walks through your door.

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No-one likes a negative Nellie. Starting each day with a “Can Do” attitude shapes your whole day, the environment you work in, the mood of the people around you and your overall success. It's a simple issue, but so critical and effective.

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ADAPT WELL TO CHANGE

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Change – Now this is something that I have always struggled with.

However, as I have progressed in life I have come to accept that nothing is constant and that there will always be the need to adjust. Retail and beauty is no different. The clients' needs will evolve, technology will advance and it is important to keep up with the latest trends. This is where a franchised business with a strong culture of innovation and

Keeping up to date in all areas of your business is a full-time job – HR, employment agreements and workplace health and safety are but a few areas that are always changing. And let's not even start with regulations or technology changes. Feed your thirst for knowledge by keeping an open line of communication with your franchisor and attending your franchisor's meetings. The networking alone is great fun and the information shared at any of these functions can be amazingly useful. Being a franchisee does not mean you have to be lonely, so why not surround yourself with people who are in a similar situation. You may just find that one of your other clinic franchisees is doing something in a more efficient manner, which is saving them time, effort and money. Being a part of a strong franchised business model means you can bypass the need to personally develop systems, software and training protocols. You just have to take the time to understand the information available and commit what has been tried and tested into the daily running of your business.

GRASP YOUR OPPORTUNITY Owning a franchised business is becoming more and more popular, with demand on the rise every day, and for good reason. I encourage you to research your options and identify the value of this business model. If you don't take the next step, you just may miss out! I am glad I chose to step out with the Australian Skin Clinics – it was the best business decision I have ever made that has allowed me to reach amazing heights. Although I would be lying if I didn't say I still think I can never have too many beautiful handbags or shoes.

AUSTRALIAN SKIN CLINICS Cosmetic Medical, Laser & Rejuvenation If you are interested in the business or career prospects available at Australian Skin Clinics please contact 1300 303 014.

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APJ 25

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The Transformation of

In Therapy Skin & Body Situated in the Brisbane suburb of Red Hill, In Therapy Skin and Body has just experience a transformation. In just 12 months since she purchased the business, Nicola Le Lievre, the proud owner of In Therapy, has re-launched the salon, giving it a fresh new image and redefined excellence in every aspect of the salon's operations.

As a member of APAN we were able to offer her continued support in her journey of upgrading services and introducing a totally different culture to the business. As with every new business ownership there will always be challenges, and Nicole did experience her fair share of them.

However, her determination and willingness to engage and surround herself with professional support has allowed her to overcome many of her obstacles and finally reach a place of great peace of mind and confidence that she is at last shaping the business how she wants it.

In this interview Nicola share with us some interesting facts about her journey as a salon owner and manager.

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APJ Q1: Nicola, please share with us a little about your background and why you decided to set up your own business?

I have always wanted to be a beauty therapist from a very young age.

After completing my Cidesco Diploma in South Africa I joined Steiner and went to work aboard cruise ships. I worked my way up to Spa Manager and I did this for over 10 years while also seeing the world – it was a wonderful experience. However, it was always my dream to open a spa along the Garden Route, but unfortunately I was held up at gunpoint in a very dramatic armed robbery and this drove me to move to Australia. I worked for Pure Indulgence managing two of their beauty salons, but decided after two years that I wanted change and move to a smaller, more boutique-style business. I managed In

Therapy salon for five years after which I received the offer to purchase the business, and this was just an obvious choice.

APJ Q2: What challenges did you encounter when taking on a salon with a different culture and how did you overcome them?

I believe when you buy a business, no matter how successful it is, you will invariably wish to introduce some changes that better suit your philosophy and the culture you wish your business to reflect. My challenge was moving from Salon Manager to Salon Owner within the team. This has not been an easy transition and I learnt over the past year that it is so important for your staff to support you in the direction you wish to take the business and the cultural changes you wish to implement. Sometimes, however, this is not so straightforward and you may encounter some staff members who are stuck and cannot make the shift. While it is important to always give them your full support and the appropriate training with clearly defined direction, some may not be able to make the transition. As hard as this may be, in such instances it is best that you let those staff members go, as the “team” needs to be fully committed to the purpose, direction and culture of the business if it is going to succeed. Today, I have new staff from when I first purchased the business and I am pleased to say that we finally have that harmony and co-operation.

APJ Q3: Share with us what new strategies you implement that made a difference to your business?

I have always been a little uncertain about on-line bookings, but as I observed the changes in consumer trends I decided to implement it.

While I was nervous about this move it has been the best business decision I have made and the results have been fantastic. Clients love that they can log on via our website at any point of the day and make

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APJ 26

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bookings. It is amazing the numerous bookings we will get on a Sunday night when clients think about it. To date we have received over 5000 on-line bookings. We also implemented online gift vouchers which has been very successful and introduced many new clients to the salon.

We are finding many friends who live even in other towns or cities will choose to purchase their friends treatment vouchers. This is so popular and it has made an amazing difference to our business.

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Focusing on staff education has been a key factor, with lots of training and workshops. Introducing value added packages for our clients has also helped orientate them to trust us for treatment that leads to better results and outcomes, not to mention gain their loyalty. We are also delighted to introduce our clients to our new oxygen-infusion therapy treatment, which we combine with microdermabrasion and LED. We were introduced to Australasian Medical Aesthetics through the APJ Journal and we are delighted with their quality devices and expert support that allowed us to improve our services and treatment outcomes, and this has led to greater business growth. We found Australasian Medical Aesthetics a long-standing and credible company that offers amazing cutting-edge technology with incredible

features and exceptional support, and we are delighted to introduce their products to our salon.

APJ Q4: Each morning what keeps you motivated to face the day?

Seeing my team being passionate and committed about what they do and the determination to better themselves as therapists is very rewarding for me. I also love that each day brings about surprises and is different. I always enjoy the interaction with our clients and gaining feedback about their experiences and the results our treatments are delivering.

APJ Q5: If you were to advise a business of the most important issues they need to get right to get ahead in their business what would those be?

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There are several I can think of, but here are the most critical:

APJ 27

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1. STAFF: Staff members are the life of the business and it is so important they support your beliefs, direction and vision of what you want the business to stand for and where you want it to go.

They must get this and they must be passionate about the goals. To achieve a harmonious team it is important to sit down one-on-one with each staff member. Assess their goals and needs and look at the best way to work collaboratively with them so at the end they can feel a sense of accomplishment and achievement in what they contribute to the business.

selected them on the basis of credibility, professionalism, availability and dependability – those who are accessible to quickly get back to me and offer me the support I need to achieve my goals. Effective communication has also been critical to my choice of experts.

APJ Q6: What aspect of the business do you enjoy the most?

There is no doubt that client interaction is what I definitely enjoy. My clients are the heartbeat of our business and I feel it is important for them to see a familiar face when they come in for their treatments. I tried to built good relationships with them based on trust and respect.

APJ Q7: How has having a business changed you for the better?

Business has allowed me to review my goals and it has given me a newfound inspiration and a purpose for my life. My salon is now an important element of my life and not just a job. I also enjoy the flexibility that my business has given me in how and where I spend my time and I appreciate that.

APJ Q8: How has APAN assisted you in your business?

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2. INDUSTRY EXPERT PARTNERS: A successful business needs the support of skilled and expert industry partners such as the right suppliers, products and training representatives, as well as the expertise of a strong industry body like APAN with their numerous strategic partners. Many businesses try to do it alone and struggle. I have carefully examined who to surround myself with that I can turn to for advice and support – behind the scene professionals, such as your solicitor, accountant, software supplier or graphic designer.

Making sure you chose those who can offer you the best service and support.

I consider them my extended business network and I carefully

My membership with APAN has been invaluable. I have been able to introduce policies and procedures correctly and been updated on important changes in the industry. Whenever I need Tina she is always available to guide and assist me, and I love APAN's strategic partners. They have been carefully selected to give invaluable benefits and support to salon businesses. I have always found APAN efficient and they respond to my needs in a very timely manner with correspondence, which is important, especially when you are faced with an issue that needs immediate assistance.

Nicola Le Lievre can be contacted at In Therapy Skin and Body Ph: (07) 3369 5000 Mobile: 0409 104 157 or Email: nicola@intherapy.com.au In Therapy is located at 44 Enoggera Terrace, Red Hill, Brisbane, Q. 4059.

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APJ 28

Be in business for yourself...but not by yourself We are a forward-thinking company with a proven strategic business model and an ongoing goal of maximising the returns on your investment from day one.

Who are we?

Australian Skin Clinics have been industry leaders since 1996, providing quality, affordable cosmetic treatments. We offer highly effective laser and skin treatments together with cosmetic injectables, acne programs and skin care.

Our franchise benefits • Centralised marketing • IT support and customised software • In-depth practical training programs for therapists and managers • Accredited laser safety training courses • A suite of full operations manuals, sales tools, procedures and protocols • Exceptional franchise support + many more benefits

www.ozskin.com/franchise 1300 303 014

skinpsychology The aesthetics industry has progressed significantly in the past decade. Today, aestheticians are armed with greater knowledge, expertise, products, ingredients, equipment and results, thus potentially improving the health of the skin and condition of client's skin to a greater extent than ever before. Skincare clinics have therefore become a real option for clients who are desperate for your professional expertise and knowledge to treat skin disorders such as acne, hyperpigmentation, rosacea, eczema, elastosis, psoriasis, or manifestations that are as a result of illness, medication, poor treatment outcomes, etc.

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Even ageing can be a deep-rooted emotional issue for some women.

Clients place their trust in you to improve their appearance and meet their expectations. Some clients may have already exhausted the medical option, and so seek the help of skincare clinics to solve their skin issues. However, reports of negative experiences with therapists/aestheticians (as there is with doctors and dermatologists) are common. Therapists/aestheticians were reported as not only having poor comprehension of the pathogenesis and correct treatment protocol for skin disorders (unrealistic promises made, poor treatment outcome, disease or scarring is worsened), but they were also often insensitive to their client's e m o t i o n a l s u ff e r i n g , a n d e v e n trivialising their client's disease. The complexity of clinical scenarios and the constraints on the therapists should be acknowledged, however, therapists should also be educated in the potential psychological effects of skin diseases, and how to correctly manage these problems with empathy and care for best longterm results and benefits.

PSYCHODERMATOLOGY More than skin deep

Considering the emotional, psychological and social implications of skin disorders

By Matoyla Kollaras The need to deal with the whole person when addressing their skincare needs is not a new concept. As a skincare practitioner you are constantly increasing your knowledge, skills and training to better understand, treat and manage skin conditions.

This will no doubt mean that you will frequently encounter challenging skin conditions that will also significantly impact the client's emotional and psychological state of mind.

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Matoyla is a qualified therapist and the Director of Skinfactors Cosmeceuticals. She is passionate about skin health and skin treatments and is highly committed to constantly staying at the forefront of research and new advances in skin science and cosmetic ingredients. In this article she addresses the allimportant issue of psychodermatology and innovatively approaches the topic through the eyes of patients that reveal their emotional turmoil. “…You become introverted, avoid contact, and become depressed, obsessive in looking at other people, hoping to see someone else who is affected. You undergo a personality change very slowly, and bit by bit, a strong person is reduced to isolation. You become angry, sad and desperate. After time, it becomes an operation just to go out your front door…” This is a 27 year-old female discussing her 15-year vitiligo history1.

THE SKIN YOU'RE IN IS ALL YOU HAVE “A shocking 47% of people with a skin disease in the UK have been victims of verbal abuse one or more times from a member of the public.

A total of 729 people were asked a series of questions relating to their skin disease, or that of the person they care for. Questions were asked on the ways skin disease affects daily life, including forming of sexual relations, social life and work life. The results show that the long-term effects of skin disease can have a devastating impact on sufferers' lives that few would expect.”2 ㄰

The skin is extraordinary, and when you learn to read it correctly it is potentially an excellent diagnostic tool; indeed, quite often being the first 'red flag' that something is not quite right internally. The skin is also our largest organ, and has long been recognised as an 'organ of expression' (Sack, 1928); it is, after all, our first point of contact between the outside world – environment, meeting people and our own selves. The skin is an organ that can directly respond to external stimuli (a rash caused through contact of a toxic substance), and reflect what is happening inside our bodies, both physiologically and psychologically (blushing when embarrassed, acne due to hormonal

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APJ 30

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factors, auto-immune lupus butterfly rash, dry, itchy skin due to organic disease such as diabetes).

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Dermatological diseases have been shown to have a negative impact on physical communication, sexual contact and, in particular, are often implicated in an elevated sense of fear, anxiety, shame, and in severe cases, thoughts of suicide.

yes, it does matter but they don't have to live with acne marks all over their face. When people talk with you, the first thing they see is your face. And what do I feel? I feel like they're looking at my flaws, like they're disgusted for even talking to me. I can't tell you how much I've cried because of my look. I feel like a monster. And if I had one wish, it would be for my skin to be clear. It's the only thing I need to be happy again.”5

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Are you the parent of a teenager, who is continually bullied at school and would rather hide in their room, excluding themselves from social involvement due to their acne condition? Does your child refuse to take swimming lessons, or show any part of their body because of their psoriasis? Do you have a friend who refuses to be without makeup, even in front of their partner, due to melasma? Does your partner live with stage 2 or 4 rosacea and every day deals with day the ruddy, red skin coloration and the unsaid question of “Have you been drinking?”

Or perhaps you have a client whose hands are riddled with eczema, and so they are too afraid to touch people lest they receive a negative response?

Sadly, having a skin disease can also have implications for romantic and sexual relationships. Many sufferers have cited their skin disease as the reason for relationship breakdowns, or lack of finding a partner.

Some people will even go as far as not marrying and/or not having children for fear that they will pass on the skin disease.

Furthermore, approximately 50% of those living with skin disease suffer from sleep deprivation caused by pain and/or itching. As a result this creates more stress due to fatigue and frustration. This state

Unlike most internal illnesses, skin disease is often immediately visible to others, and thus can prove to be a hugely stressful and a heart-breaking experience for the individual that has to live with the skin disease on a daily basis. To add to this problem, “relatively little attention has been paid to the psychosocial problems experienced by skin diseases sufferers”.3 And yet it has been estimated that between 40% and 80% of people with dermatological conditions have experienced significant emotional, social and psychological problems.

“Patients with skin disease often feel enormously upset about their skin condition, as it affects their confidence and self-esteem in so many different ways. All too often the impact of skin disease is underestimated, and our research makes it very clear that it is common for individuals with skin disease to consider suicide. Many patients consider skin conditions to be more psychologically damaging than diabetes or heart disease.” 4 Many skin diseases such as psoriasis, vitiligo, etc., are very noticeable, visually striking and often provoke a response. As a result many people with these manifestations often fall victim to regular bullying, and yet more concerning is that one in eight had suffered from some form of physical abuse from a member of the public.

Negative reactions and a fear of negative reactions from others is a real challenge for those living with skin disease.

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More common conditions such as acne and eczema, which often have a chronic manifestation, can affect people on a long-term basis.

Clients who suffered from severe acne as teenagers and adolescents can quite often carry the burden of lasting physical, psychological and emotional scars long into adulthood. Acne scarring is a daily reminder of a difficult period, and its impact on self-esteem, confidence and depression is well established. I am sure we have all come across the introverted acne client, who has chosen a life of the avoidance of behaviours, places and events, or doesn't care for the way they dress, or perhaps is working in a menial job rather than chase their career dream because they fear rejection in the interview process. Are they really introverts? Do they really not care about themselves and their life? I would probably guess that they are not introverts, and actually care very much for how they look and their life's path. However, their acne has rendered them unable to look beyond the pain and disfigurement; instead, the acne has become who they are.

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“I feel disgusted when I look at myself. People don't understand. They

say to me “your look doesn't matter; it's who you are on the inside”. And

of being of course in turn impacts on the emotions, and most importantly due to the stress, cortisol spike, skin immune suppression cycle, the disease is worsened. There are clear indications that stress plays a profound role in the exacerbation and at times onset of skin disease such as acne, eczema, vitiligo, psoriasis and urticaria.

There are two further significant concerns that are faced by those living with skin disease: 1. Because skin diseases are noticeable and draw people's attention, this can “remove the feeling of personal control from the sufferer”,6 thus rending the disease 'public property', unlike in the cases of many internal diseases where the sufferer is able to “control who knows about their condition and when”.7 2. Skin disease has often been associated with myths surrounding poor hygiene and contagion. This often means people will act negatively towards the sufferer, and hence often trigger feelings of stigma by the sufferer.

CLINICAL MANAGEMENT “I had acne when I was a teenager. After it went away I was left with indented scars. I went for laser resurfacing at the age of 53 that made things much worse for me. He burnt my face and left me with dents, fat loss and more scars. I have been homebound for the past seven years because of this. I stopped doing everything and I mostly stay inside. I don't want friends or family to see me. I shake when I get up seeing the damage the laser did to me, day after day. I wouldn't wish this on anyone.” 8 Until you have walked in the shoes of skin-disease sufferers you cannot possibly comprehend the daily torment that they face. In the greater scheme of things, it may seem quite insignificant to one who

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does not, or has not experienced such skin conditions, but imagine for just one moment that you awake one day to a condition that becomes the first thing people see when they look at you, and perhaps a defining characteristic such as: “Hey, you know who I am talking about, the woman with brown patches on her cheek.” 9 Clinical management of skin conditions therefore requires a perspective beyond the skin and its lesions. Through heightened awareness and support you can help these clients, not only through your skills, treatments and products you offer, but by your ability to develop an empathetic, trusting and caring client/therapist relationship.

Your initial consultation therefore, is a crucial component of the treatment process. Allow ample consultation time, ask many relevant questions, and more importantly, listen with your ears, eyes and heart.

When a client is struggling with their appearance, they often feel alone in their struggle. For this reason, you should also aim to become your clients' skincare partner or coach by gaining their trust and confidence.

Be mindful in your approach. It is critical to treat these clients with sincerity, respect and sensitivity. Most importantly, be honest and realistic. Don't make promises that you cannot guarantee by making exaggerated claims of what treatment outcomes you can achieve – always under-promise and over deliver. Be honest also with your own capabilities, and be realistic with what your clinic can offer the client.

Consider whether you can truthfully help this client. Do you know how to best approach and treat their skin condition? Do you have the appropriate tools and knowledge, or will you make compromises and make do with what you have on hand, which may not be the best

approach, or potentially worsen the condition?

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You may also need to discuss the possibility that your client may need to consult health professionals such as a dermatologist, psychologist and nutritionist – skin diseases can generally respond well to dietary improvements and a thorough health assessment of digestive abnormalities and other underlying inflammatory conditions. Know when to refer.

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On the other hand your client may have already exhausted all medical avenues and you could be their last resort. Again approach the problem truthfully. Can you offer a solution, or should you refer your client to another reputable skin clinic who may have products and treatments better suited to the treatment of their problem?

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IN CONCLUSION When dealing with problematic skin conditions there is clearly a necessity for the therapist to also carefully consider the non-tangible need of the patient's or client's emotional and psychological state when determining treatment choice and protocols. More specifically, there is a need to ensure consideration is also given to the important role of empathy and compassion in supporting their road to recovery and improving self-esteem.

Always remember that for many living with a skin disease, which is often chronic in nature, has had a life-altering impact. Professionals must always remember that aside from the physical manifestation that the skin disease will have on the sufferer, there is often emotional consequences, social aspects and psychological stresses involved.

Furthermore, these clients have more than likely had many treatments, used many products, and spent hundreds if not thousands of dollars in the hope for better skin and happiness. Therefore, you must avoid being the reason for further disappointment; these clients already come to you in a fragile state of being. Ensure that expectations are realistic and never set your client up for greater grief and yourself up for losing a client.

Work together with them within realistic parameters, and aim for improved, healthier skin on the outside, and a confident, healthier customer on the inside. Sometimes all it takes is a 10% improvement to give them hope, and although this small change may not be obvious to you, to the client it could well mean the world and a step in a more positive direction.

References: 1. Psychodermatology: The Psychological Impact of Skin Disorders, Carl Walker, Linda Papadopoulos 2. British Skin Foundation press release – Half the people with a skin disease have been verbally abused.

3. Psychological Impact of Skin Disorders – Carl Walker, Linda Papadopoulos 4. Dr Anthony Bewley, British Skin Foundation press release – Half the people with a skin disease have been verbally abused.

5. Castiel – Readers Respond: How Has Acne Affected Your Life? http://acne.about.com/u/ua/yourselfesteem/Emotional AcneScars.htm 6 & 7. Psychological Impact of Skin Disorders, Carl Walter, Linda Papadopoulos 8. STS Readers Respond: How Has Acne Affected Your Life? http://acne.about.com/u/ua/yourselfesteem/Emotional AcneScars.htm 9. The Emotional Aspect of Treating Skin Conditions, Michelle D'Allaird

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APJ 66

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The Driving Force Behind Rejuvenation CELL-TO-CELL COMMUNICATION AND GENE REGULATION

By Dr Lance Setterfield Collagen-induction therapy, commonly known as dermal needling, is rapidly gaining popularity as a highly effective skin rejuvenation/anti-ageing treatment. While it definitely can deliver some amazing results, research is bringing to light new information on how skin cells respond to this modality. This information is invaluable in determining the right protocols when designing a treatment program.

Dr Lance Setterfield is a world-leading educator and authority in this modality. In this article he presents some compelling information on how dermal-needling techniques can impact on cell-to-cell communication and gene regulation.

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When considering rejuvenation and regenerative medicine, “stem cells” and “gene therapy” are buzz words. The goal is to prevent ageing in younger clients and reverse, or at least delay, ageing in the older population. While embryonic stem cells may potentially be used to repair old tissue with young cells, there are some surrounding technological and ethical issues that you need to consider.

To understand the reasoning behind rejuvenation treatment modalities, it's important to know there are two ways in which skin maintains its structural integrity:

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Homeostasis (non-inflammatory) and daily repair – facilitated by plasma = normal collagen Emergency repair (inflammatory) – facilitated by serum – mass production of scar collagen.

Homeostasis is slow and results in loss of structure over time, whereas emergency repair (injury) produces visible gains that appeal to instant gratification. As long as people look better they don't care if they end up with scar tissue, especially if it cannot be seen as such. But the key for “optimum” improvement is to increase normal collagen production during homeostasis, rather than scar collagen that results due to the inflammatory process after injury.

What is the mechanism behind the results we see in skin rejuvenation?

Skin cells work as a team to accomplish homeostasis and are constantly communicating with each other via chemical signalling molecules in the form of growth factors and cytokines. This “text messaging” system ultimately leads to gene regulation to control cellular function.

Anti-inflammatory growth factors and cytokines tend to facilitate repair and homeostasis in non-emergency situations.

Pro-inflammatory cytokines and growth factors are typically associated with disease states, but also serve to facilitate an immune response against infection or rogue cells that are precancerous or malignant. They also facilitate degradation and removal of substances that need replacing (e.g. collagenase remodels collagen).

The TGF-B pathway has major relevance in skin rejuvenation because we can manipulate it (with microneedling, LED, etc.) to alter the pace of healing and the quality of the collagen that results. It orchestrates the orderly migration of epidermal and dermal cells. While TGF-B1 results in fibrosis and scarring, TGF-B3 has anti-scarring actions, the

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precise molecular mechanisms of which are not clear.

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In unwounded skin (cosmetic microneedling), cells are nourished by plasma. Human plasma selectively promotes dermal, but not epidermal cell migration. TGF-B3 is undetectable in plasma.

Homeostasis, or maintenance of structural integrity, is due to noninflammatory cytokine and growth-factor cascades.

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In wounded skin (medical microneedling), resident cells are exposed to serum and respond differently due to the (predominantly inflammatory) growth factors and cytokines contained therein (especially within platelets). Human serum selectively promotes epidermal cell migration and halts dermal cell migration. TGF-B3 is high in serum and serves to switch off TGF-B1 and TGF-B2 (responsible for epidermal migration) once re-epithelialisation is complete.

In summary, while TGF-B3 allows for normal collagen production after injury (as opposed to scar collagen promoted by TGF-B1 and TGF-B2), it does not seem to stimulate production directly. It appears that other signalling molecules found within the plasma “cascade” accomplish this.

Should the inflammatory cascade after needling be prolonged or blocked?

Rejuvenation relies on injuring the skin in some way to induce a healing response, thus harnessing the forces of nature to facilitate a desirable endpoint. Conventional wisdom of the industry states that inflammation is essential to attract myofibroblasts to the area of injury in order to produce collagen (predominantly via the TGF-B1 pathway). As previously mentioned, the scientific evidence points to the fact that collagen formed under such circumstances is not normal.

It is scar collagen, which is aligned in thick, parallel bundles. Normal collagen is the exact same protein, only the fibres are aligned in a natural basket weave. Therefore we are gaining a result (via heat and chemical injury, with resulting inflammation and scarring) at the expense of optimal function. In fact, frequent aggressive treatments lead to chronic inflammation, which causes premature ageing.

However, in embryo wound healing, normal collagen is produced in the absence of inflammation, thus proving the latter is not a prerequisite.

If results via an inflammatory response are not ideal, is there an alternative? What about resident fibroblasts?

We tend to view wounding as only present when it is macroscopic (visible to the naked eye), but in reality our body is in a state of constant repair and cellular replacement due to microscopic injury from everyday life. This induces resident fibroblasts to produce normal collagen, which is ideal. (While there is still a degree of inflammation involved, it is miniscule in comparison to the macroscopic injury that constitutes an “emergency immune response”. The pathways involved in emergency versus day-to-day repair are remarkably different.) ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Can we get resident fibroblasts to speed up when the natural tendency of ageing is for them to slow down?

The answer is yes, and it is all via cell-to-cell communication and gene up-regulation and down-regulation. Cytokines and growth factors are signalling molecules that switch cell function on and off. The positive results in skin rejuvenation are attributed to the non-inflammatory cytokines and growth factors, such as TGF-B3, and the negative results to inflammatory cytokines such as collagenase (MMP's) that break collagen down. The beauty of microneedling is that it enhances the non-inflammatory cascade while suppressing the inflammatory aspect. We can also manipulate this process by applying LED

Image courtesy of DeLuz Medical Aesthetics, Temecula, CA

immediately after a needling treatment (or any treatment involving injury to the skin), as well as using products in the ensuing days that switch the inflammatory process off ASAP.

Is dermal injury required to stimulate fibroblasts?

If one adheres to the old school of thought that inflammation is required to recruit myofibroblasts, then yes. The mechanism of action with this scenario is triggering platelets through injury to release growth factors such as TGF-B1 and TGF-B2, VEGF and PDGF, all of which are inflammatory, and EGF, which can go either way. Other inflammatory substances, such as histamines, are also released. But is it injury to resident fibroblasts that stimulates collagen production?

Scientific evidence points to keratinocyte injury releasing a cascade of non-inflammatory cytokines and growth factors that result in upregulation of genes for collagen production at the dermal-epidermal junction. Could it be that we have always attributed results to inflammation recruiting myofibroblasts and also direct fibroblast injury, when epidermal injury on the way to the dermis has been responsible all along for the majority of change we see?

At what level does the pathology exist associated with wrinkles?

Studies confirm that it is loss of structural integrity at the dermal/epidermal junction that causes rhytides or wrinkles. While there is some overlap between pathogenesis of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing, the predominant mechanism for premature ageing is triggering of MMPs via UV exposure. Targeting of the dermalepidermal junction with treatment modalities at a depth of around 0.5 mm may alleviate signs of ageing optimally, as opposed to targeting reticular fibroblasts deeper in the dermis that are not as responsive to injury.

At what level does the pathology exist associated with hyperpigmentation?

Again, it is damage at the dermal/epidermal junction that results in many of the signs we see with hyperpigmentation. Thus treating to a depth of 0.5 mm is optimum for treating this condition too.

At what level does the pathology exist associated with scarring?

Pathology is deeper with scars, mostly well below the dermal/epidermal junction. It was thought that needling at depths of 2-3 mm was required to mechanically break down scars. However, some studies show that better results were obtained in burn scars at 0.5 mm than at 2 mm, thus indicating that remodelling of scars is predominantly due to the action of collagenase triggered by this treatment.

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What about timing of treatments? Some experts recommend weekly and some monthly. What is the rationale behind this difference in opinion?

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The positive results seen in embryo wound healing (non-scar healing) are attributed predominantly to TGF-B3. Thus, theoretically, we need to stimulate as much TGF-B3 as possible, so how can one accomplish this?

Studies show that TGF-B3 increases exponentially with subsequent treatments, with a resultant stacking effect. (TGF-B3 created with the second treatment is added to the amount that has not yet dissipated from the last.) This anti-inflammatory growth factor switches off TGF-B1 and TGF-B2 once re-epithelialisation has occurred. In other words, once the risk of bacteria entering the body is over, an immune response is no longer warranted and the inflammatory aspect responsible for attracting white cells to the area is switched off by TGF-B3.

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Two challenges arise with this theory. First, if TGF-B1 signalling plays a role in proliferation of fibroblasts, transition of fibroblasts to myofibroblasts, and synthesis of ECM components, such as collagen Type 1, increasing TGF-B3 will block the very pathway of collagen production that injury is employed to invoke. Second, production of TGF-B3 after injury does not occur in isolation. Other cytokines are produced, such as collagenase, so potentially the more frequent the treatments, the greater the stacking effect of these substances too, which ultimately leads to breakdown of collagen.

Given the above, increasing collagenase would be desirable when trying to remodel scars with needling, so therefore weekly treatments could be applied in this scenario. Monthly treatments for antiageing seem more appropriate to capitalise on the natural peaks of positive growth factors and cytokines, while minimising the negatives of the inflammatory cascades. Granted, this is all theoretical at present, and studies need to be conducted to confirm histological changes in order to establish the ideal microneedling protocol.

However, it is important that we determine what exactly we are trying to achieve before selecting the treatment protocol. Understanding how the cells respond to the various levels of stimulation is critical to our determination of which way to proceed.

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Dr. Lance Setterfield, one of the world's foremost Dermal Needling experts, is an educator, skin-treatment specialist and international speaker. Author of Concise Guide to Dermal Needling, he draws from 32 years of medical experience with special interest in cell-to-cell communication, researching effects of dermal needling on the epidermis (cosmetic) and dermis (medical).

Collaboration with companies around the world has enabled him to be at the forefront of this technology.

The Concise Guide to Dermal Needling provides a succinct overview of the skin-rejuvenation modality of Dermal Needling and is recognised as the “bible” of cosmetic and medical needling. A review on this book will be presented in the next issue of APJ. However, in the meantime if you wish to purchase the book you can access a copy from http://www.needlingguide.com/

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Image courtesy of DeLuz Medical Aesthetics, Temecula, CA

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The Importance of Formalising your Business Relationship with your Medical Practitioner

By Michael Bishop Director, Pointon Partner Lawyers You are a successful salon or clinic and you are approached by a nurse or doctor who proposes that you establish a relationship with them to deliver injectable treatments to your clients. Starryeyed about the prospects of stepping up your offerings to your clients you embark on this arrangement on the basis of a verbal understanding, but without any formal contract. However, in the event of any potential conflict arising in the future you discover that you have no negotiating power, and what started out to be a great idea can turn nasty and bitter.

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Unfortunately, we are seeing these scenarios quite often with our members and, when consulted, our recommendation is to establish a formal contract before the collaboration begins.

Each contract may be different, depending on the circumstances. While we are happy to give you key guidelines that you should ensure in the arrangement such as ownership of your clients and intellectual property, what insurance you would provide and what will be needed by the medical practitioner, invoicing and who collects the fees and how the commissions can be paid, ultimately all these elements must come together

through a carefully drafted contract with a solicitor. APAN's role is to protect you through explaining the options you should consider that are of importance. However, once you know what you want then a legal agreement should be put in place for peace of mind.

Michael Bishop is a senior partner at Pointon Partner Lawyers – APAN legal Strategic Alliance Partner. Recently we spoke to Michael about this recurring problem, which often comes to our attention after the fact when conflicts surface. In this article Michael discusses this all-important topic and offers some recommendations on issues that need to be put in place. Best practice requires that correct documentation are established to ensure the smooth running of a business for the best possible commercial and professional outcome. We trust this article will help you understand why.

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This is becoming more common-place and it is amazing how such arrangements can sometimes turn nasty.

It is not uncommon for beauty salons to engage medical practitioners to perform services that can only be performed by suitably qualified professionals, such as injectables and fillers.

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It is often the case, however, that these medical practitioners are not engaged by the salon under any formal agreement, be that by way of an employment, independent contractor or medical-service agreements.

They are therefore not bound by duties of confidentiality and similar beneficial protections.

For example, there have been instances where medical practitioners have gained access to and used confidential information such as client lists belonging to salons where they have performed services for their own benefit.

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It is therefore important that salon owners and employers formalise these arrangements to not only protect the goodwill of their business, but also to avoid potential legal disputes.

This can be done by way of a Medical Services or Contractor Agreement. A Medical Services Agreement operates to regulate the relationship between the parties, stipulating foremost that the medical practitioner is an independent contractor and not an employee of the business.

An agreement of this type also provides for the terms and conditions on which the medical practitioner is to be engaged to provide the services, including:

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Whether or not the medical practitioner is engaged exclusively by the business or can perform services for other businesses (typically it would be a non-exclusive arrangement) Board registration and public insurance requirements to be met by the medical practitioner; Rate and method of payment and invoicing procedures; Who will provide the resources necessary to perform the services i.e. uniforms, product, equipment; Whether the medical practitioner is permitted to hire their own nursing staff (and on what basis such staff are to be engaged); Compliance with salon policies; Obligations regarding confidentiality and intellectual property; Termination and dispute-resolution processes.

While it is important to stipulate the terms on which services are to be provided and the relationship between the parties, the following issues are also important and should be documented by way of an agreement: 1.

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Licence to occupy the premises (medical practitioner as licensee, salon as licensor). A licence arrangement is preferable in these circumstances to a lease as it can be limited to use of rooms at certain times of day; does not confer property rights on the licensee and can be revoked at any time. It also confers responsibility on the licensee for all paperwork associated with their business.

2. Billing issues. One of the benefits of a licence arrangement is that it can provide that the salon or licensor is to receive a certain percentage of income generated from the income of the medical practitioner derived through use of the room.

For example, patients or clients are charged by the salon as an agent of the medical practitioner and the salon will be required to remit funds to the medical practitioner less a pre-determined service or licence fee.

If you require any further information on the above or any assistance with the preparation of a Medical Services Agreement, please contact Michael Bishop at Pointon Partner Lawyers on 03 9614 7707.

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Stepping back from MICROMANAGING

By Carol Nelson Effective management styles are as much about procedures as they are about attitude to our work and others. Moving from practitioner to manager can sometimes be daunting. The fear that the same level of excellence will not be maintained as you delegate tasks to others can sometimes contribute to an attitude of over-controlling and excessive supervision of staff that can result in them feeling suffocated, inadequate, not trusted to deliver the outcomes you want and unappreciated – all negative traits that can be detrimental to what you are wanting them to achieve. In this article, Caroline Nelson presents valuable recommendations on how to avoid this and ways to delegate in a way that can help you successfully grow your business.

Early last year I was contacted by a salon owner who was experiencing quite a large staff turnover, and many staffing issues. This lady had been a sole operator from a home-based studio for a number of years prior to opening a large salon in a popular shopping centre two years previous. The business had a great location, was beautifully fitted out, had up-to-date technology, stocked excellent skincare ranges, and should have been doing very well. But it wasn't.

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I was called in to help. The first thing I did was a full diagnostic of the business and all operations. It didn't take long to work out some of the challenges this business was facing. The standout was employee dissatisfaction. In an industry that is not known for staff retention this business took the cake. Not one of the original employees was still on staff, and none of the current team had been there longer than three months. Meanwhile, one of these had just handed her notice in. It was a dire situation.

The business owner was stressed to the max and true to form she was blaming everyone, including both past and current employees. Now while I'm not saying that every one of her employees are totally blameless, it is also fair to say this owner had to accept she might be contributing in some way. On further investigation it soon became apparent that micromanaging was an issue.

Control freaks rarely acknowledge this fact about themselves, but this lady was exhibiting many of the traits. For instance, she said things like: * On my god I never had these issues when I worked on my own * If you want something done well then do it yourself is my motto * Half my staff are useless and the other half are lazy * It's my way or the highway.

I acknowledge that as the owner she had a right to have things done the way she likes them, but she also needed to give clear directions, followed up with the correct training, and to get her team engaged in the process.

None of this was happening. The staff were expected to be mindreaders, to automatically know how why and when things needed to be done, and if they didn't then they better get out of the way because she would just take over.

This lady was suffering serious burn-out, and was doing the majority of the workload because she simply didn't trust her employees to do the job. The half my staff are useless and the other half are lazy perception ruled supreme.

Now while this business owner was micromanaging to the extreme, some of you may recognise some of the traits in yourself. Here are some signs you need to consider:

SIGNS YOU MAY BE MICROMANAGING

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You believe you are smarter, quicker and more skilled than your employees You interrupt when an employee is in conversation with a client because you think you will do better You hover over them as they are trying to close a sale Rearrange the computer bookings so you can do a service instead of allowing the therapist who booked the client Discourage others from making decisions without consulting with you beforehand You're constantly swamped with work because you won't delegate

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Afraid to take holidays When you do have a day off you are constantly checking in Your employees are on tender hooks, because they don't know how you will react Staff sick days are high Staff turnover is high

Any sound familiar? If so then stop trying to be 'Superwoman'. Take a deep breath and realise that you need help. It could be that you need an expert’s help to design better, more streamlined systems that makes your staff perform to a standard you are happy with. Or it could just be you need to allow employees to take on more responsibility and tasks. It could be a combination of both.

To avoid burn-out and to succeed it is imperative you adopt effective and efficient salon management strategies. And one of the most important skills to learn is the skill of delegation, because it is impossible to grow a business if you are constantly treating clients, have no time to manage the team, create an effective market and operate the business.

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Start by making sure each employee fully knows their job responsibilities, goals and your expectations. Have these clearly defined and given to them in a written document. This is the first step to being able to 'quality control' service outcomes without having to do each treatment personally yourself.

Provide an employee handbook or policies and procedures manual that sets down exactly how you want the interaction between employee and customer to occur. This would consist of not only how treatments are to be performed, but in fact how you want the business to be operated from opening to closing each day.

I will let you in on a little secret your employees will be happiest with, that is when they know what is expected of them and in what time frame. This structure provides them with safety and the security to do the job well without having to second-guess.

SUCCESSFUL DELEGATION There are many things to evaluate before you delegate. These include employees' skill level, motivation, dependability and who will be best suited for the treatment/and or task, to name just a few. Matching the right person to each task can be a little difficult so start small, but persevere. Also don't try and make too large a change too quickly nor expect overnight miracles.

Once you have delegated make sure you have equipped your employee with all the information and training necessary to perform to the required standard. Be very specific when you explain what is to be done, leaving no room for confusion and therefore, little or no room for error. This is where the staff policies and procedures manual is invaluable. But in the early stages you will still need to be available to give additional support if and when necessary. And you will need to monitor their progress and make any adjustments necessary along the way.

Once you have started to delegate try not to micromanage by wanting to control with excessive attention to detail. If you do you will find this will create workplace dissatisfaction and distrust, and it will keep your team from developing and doing the best possible job.

Good staff management is at the end of the day about making people comfortable in their workplace so they are eager to come to work each day and happy to treat your clients to an exceptional level of care. And don't forget to encourage and praise them – it goes a long way in keeping people engaged.

Going back to the salon owner mentioned in the beginning of this article. It was difficult to coach her in the right direction and away from her micromanaging bad habits. There were a few hiccups along the way, but nearly 12 months down the track I can report things are running a whole lot smoother. In fact, so well that the salon owner recently felt secure and confident enough in her team to take a holiday. A great outcome! ㄰

© Copyright Caroline Nelson 2015

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Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specialises in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com, or phone 041 0600 440.

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Sunday 31 May 2015 The Business of Skin Management

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Are you determined in 2015 to increase your market share and accelerate your business achievements and growth? Then APAN's Brisbane conference program is designed just for you.

Six amazing lectures will deliver leading new educational and business subjects of the highest calibre through leading experts. This program will challenge your current thinking and expose you to new winning strategies and information. You will leave with newly acquired tools and strategies to strengthen your current business position and accelerate your growth and success in 2015.

Here is what one delegate said: “A friend told me about the APAN conference. I was very busy and didn't believe I could make it, but I am thrilled I did. The APAN Conference program gave me incredible industry information, business tools, science and introduced me to a dynamic networking environment with other industry professionals. The exhibiting companies where niche, but highly professionals with leading products and equipment. I loved the no-stress, no-rush environment that is designed to deliver information in a style that allowed me to maximise the value to me. I gained great knowledge and left very elated and excited to face my future. This is a must program for all industry professionals”. Jane Robinson, NSW.

TIME: 9.00am – 9.45am TOPIC: DEVELOPING YOUR PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT IN THE MODERN ERA SPEAKER: Terry Everitt, B.HSc. MA Education Clinical Program Coordinator, Senior Lecturer, Australasian College of Health and Wellness There can be no doubt that we work in a changing world and an increased knowledge bank is required simply to keep pace with an ever evolving practice. To succeed in a professional environment, it is essential to undertake ongoing development in a planned and considered way. While essential, no longer is manufacturer/distributer based training sufficient to maintain your place in this industry where outcome based development is now needed. Terry Everitt is an international aesthetic educational leader and brings a wealth of experience and knowledge to help you get ahead in forming a framework for your development in a structured, planned and strategic manner.

Learning objectives: ! How to apply professional development personally ! Identifying present limitations ! Levels of knowledge ! What is critical thinking and why is it needed in the current professional world

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CONFERENCE PROGRAM AND SPEAKERS 8.15am – 8.45am REGISTRATION, PICKUP DELEGATE'S KIT AND NETWORKING 8.45am – 9.00am Tina Viney:

Chairperson's Welcome

NETWORKING BREAK AND MORNING TEA 9.45am – 10.15am

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TIME: 10.15am – 11.00am TOPIC: THE NEW FACE: CHANGING TRENDS AND TECHNIQUES IN APPEARANCE ENHANCEMENT

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Conference Stamford Plaza, Brisbane Taking it from Theory to Practice

SPEAKER: Janet Price RN, Director of Lip Logic, Kangaroo Point, Qld The evolution of appearance enhancement is changing with the new trend moving strongly towards the more "youthful, natural look".

This shift requires practitioners to work with a broader "global perspective" utilising different skills and techniques as well as products that can deliver precise and more discrete outcomes.

Janet Price is a Registered Nurse who has been involved in the cosmetic injectable industry since 1994. Janet has extensive experience as a trainer with companies who are at the forefront of the cosmetic injectable revolution.

Her dedication and commitment to excellence has gained her an impeccable reputation as one of the nation’s best injectors and trainers, both by her peers and consumers alike. Her techniques are renowned for their attention to detail and amazingly natural outcomes, which is the new trend. In this lecture she will present the latest advances in new concepts, product developments and techniques.

Learning objectives: ! Defining the beautiful face and how and why the face ages ! Introduction to the Global Perspective ! Injecting techniques and why less is more ! Lessons learnt from the past

NETWORKING BREAK 11am – 11.30am TIME: 11.30am – 12.15pm TOPIC: LOOKING BEYOND THE SURFACE: STRENGTHENING SKIN IMMUNITY PRE AND POSTINVASIVE PROCEDURES SPEAKER: Lynette Rouse B.HSc. Paramedical Aesthetic Therapist The demand for effective treatment outcomes is constantly on the rise. Clients

and patients want better, long-lasting results and this now requires a deeper knowledge of the systemic factors that influence skin health, the inflammatory process and how to combine various modalities to achieve more advanced results. Lynette Rouse has extensive knowledge and specialises in effectively treating challenging skin conditions such as acne scarring, premature ageing as well as effectively preparing the skin to gain maximum benefit from injectable procedures as well as pre and post-surgery. Lynne holds extensive qualifications in Beauty, Aesthetics and Spa therapies as well as a Bachelor of Science Degree. In this lecture you will learn key considerations that hinder healing and skin improvement, how to overcome them and improve skin health, and vitality through a multidisciplinary approach.

Learning Objectives: ! Health factors you should consider that hinder effective treatment outcomes ! Effective strategies for challenging skin conditions ! Preparing the skin for surgery or injectable procedures ! Key ingredients to look for in skincare

LUNCH BREAK AND NETWORKING 12.15pm – 1.15pm

TIME: 1.15 – 2.15pm TOPIC: HOW TO BREAK THROUGH BARRIERS IN A COMPETITIVE BUSINESS ENVIRONMENT BUSINESS FORUM: A panel of successful business owners and industry experts from various States

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One way to accelerate your business success is from lessons learnt by high achievers. In this forum salon and clinic owners will share key strategies that have contributed to accelerating their growth in 2014 and how they view the future. Each panellist will present a key point

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followed by an open forum for delegates to ask the panellist business questions. These sessions are highly resourceful and dynamic and bring a great wealth of knowledge for the benefit of all.

Learning objectives: ! Highly successful and profitable promotional strategies ! The new business mindset ! Successful strategies for reaching and gaining new clients ! How to gain the full support and co-operation of your staff

NETWORKING BREAK 2.15 – 2.45pm

TIME: 2.45 – 3.30pm TOPIC: RESEARCH FINDINGS ON HOW HORMONES AFFECT SKIN AND BODY HEALTH SPEAKER: Dr Julie Bradford Cosmetic Medical Practitioner There is so much talk about the role of hormones in health and wellbeing, but what about the skin? What role do hormones play and why is it important that our hormones are correctly balanced to support skin health and vitality?

Now new research points to some amazing discoveries that validate how hormones and their deficiencies can affect the skin. As a skincare therapist, understanding the role of hormones in skin health has never been more important, especially if your treatment goals aim to improve, correct and even reverse skin damage. This is one of the most up-to-date and comprehensive lectures on the subject you will ever have the opportunity to benefit from. Dr Julie Bradford is a Regenerative and Cosmetic Medical Practitioner with over 30 years’ experience and one of the first Cosmetic Medical Doctors in Queensland and a leader in this area of innovative medicine.

Learning objectives: ! What are bio-identical hormones and how do they differ from synthetic hormones ! Understanding the different types of oestrogen and how they influence skin and body functions ! Combining transdermal hormones with cosmetic ingredients ! Skin ageing and how hormones impact on skin health

NETWORKING AND AFTERNOON BREAK 3.30pm – 4.00pm TIME: 4.00 – 4.45pm TOPIC: CAPTURING THE Y-GEN MARKET SPEAKER: Mark Viney

of stress. While Baby Boomers are high in numbers they are heading for retirement. This means that Y and X Gens are the future for both employment and business growth, so identifying how to engage with them is critical to any business. Mark Viney is a qualified and experienced teacher and also holds qualification in new technologies.

This lecture aims to give you a better understanding of how Y-Gens think, their strengths and how to effectively communicate with them for better business operations and client engagement and retention.

Learning objectives: ! Understanding the Y-Gen mentality and mindset ! Effective strategies in addressing Y-Gen requirements ! Understanding how Y-Gen find businesses ! Practical areas you need to engage in and master

REGISTRATION This is a fully catered for event including meals, morning and afternoon, delegates’ kit and Professional Development Statement of Attendance. Enjoy a day of great education, business support and networking opportunities. Visit our exhibition for great products and equipment and also go in the draw for prizes.

PRE-REGISTRATION IS ESSENTIAL FOR CATERING PURPOSES APAN MEMBERS: $220 Non members: $239 If you wish to register three or more SPECIAL RATE IS $200 FOR MEMBERS SPECIAL RATE FOR THREE OR MORE $220.

To register for the conference visit www.apanetwork.com and complete your registration form on-line or phone 07 5593 0360 for any further questions.

For accommodation bookings phone: (07) 3221 1999 and state that you are an APAN Conference delegate or exhibitor for your SPECIAL RATE: Superior Room $260 & $20 Breakfast (Subject to availability).

The Stamford Plaza is located at Corner Edward and Margaret Streets Brisbane Q 4000 Ph: 07 3221 1999.

MONDAY 1ST JUNE MEDICAL COSMETIC TATTOOING POST-GRADUATE WORKSHOP 3D Nipple Areola If you are a qualified cosmetic tattooists APAN is conducting a PostGraduate Workshop on the following day after the conference. (see next page for details).

This is a full-day workshop with a Certificate of Attendance.

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Many businesses that are predominantly run by Baby Boomers are struggling to come to terms with differences in mindset between them and the Y-Gens, whether they are clients or staff. The truth is YGens have a different view on respect and authority and respond differently to leadership. This can sometimes frustrate Baby Boomers and can often lead to conflict and a great deal

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MEDICAL COSMETIC TATTOOING Post-Graduate Workshop BRISBANE

3D Nipple Areola

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Sponsored by the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network

LEARN FROM THE EXPERT

Cosmetic Tattooists, do you want to advance your knowledge and education to a higher level and transition into medical tattooing? APAN is holding a post-graduate workshop for the benefit of Cosmetic Tattooists who wish to expand their scope of practice to include Medical Cosmetic Tattooing, specifically in gaining skills and knowledge in 3D NIPPLE AREOLA. This is a very rewarding career that will allow you to improve the quality of life of cancer victims who have undergone a mastectomy by improving their morale and self-esteem.

APAN is delighted to present CHRISTINE COMANS – a qualified Cosmetic Tattooist/trainer and a specialist in the 3D Nipple Areola technique. Christine is currently working with the Sir Charles Gairdner Hospital (SCGH) in Perth, W.A. on cancer patients.

SCGH has an international reputation for ground-breaking medical research and is considered as one of the leading teaching tertiary hospitals. Christine is honoured to be part of their team supporting the wellbeing of cancer patients who have undergone a mastectomy.

Join us for a one-day amazing workshop and learn from a highly respected expert.

WHEN: Monday 1st June 2015

Learning objectives will include: st

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(FOLLOWING APAN CONFERENCE Sunday 31 June 2015 Stamford Plaza Hotel).

WHERE: Stamford Plaza Hotel, Brisbane TIME: 8.30am – 5pm.

WHO CAN ATTEND: Qualified Cosmetic Tattooists YOU WILL RECEIVE: Statement of Attainment in Medical Cosmetic Tattooing (3D Nipple Areola) MEALS: Morning/Afternoon tea will be provided as well as buffet lunch COST: $1100, APAN MEMBERS: $990 REGISTRATION: There are limited spaces available for this workshop so please register early to avoid disappointment. You can download an application form from www.apanetwork.com. Go to the Conference Registration Brisbane and select the Cosmetic Tattoo Workshop form.

Registration Forms must be submitted by 1st May 2015.

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Plastic and reconstructive surgeons and hospitals, etiquette and formalities Understanding the process of breastreconstruction surgery Anatomy and aesthetics of nipple areola complex tattooing Advances in equipment, procedures and technique Design and perform nipple areola complex tattooing Review treatment and provide post treatment advice

For further information contact APAN Ph: 07 55930360 Email: info@apanetwork.com.

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MAN ON A MISSION

Unlocking the molecular mechanism of ageing

By Tina Viney The role of telomeres in ageing and disease is now scientifically validated, and advances in this field are of importance to medical researchers who are attempting to find solutions to disease prevention as well as longevity.

Traditional medicine tends to look at bodily decline through the prism of diseases of ageing and the body's increasing susceptibility over time to killers like diabetes, heart disease and cancer.

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this work she was awarded the 2009 Nobel Prize in Physiology of Medicine, shared with Carol Greder and Jack Szoskak. Since them our picture of human telomeres and telomerase has sharpened considerably bringing us closer to answers in our quest for preventing and reversing disease and the ageing process itself.

WHAT ARE TELOMERES? Telomeres are enzymes that maintain the ends of our cells' chromosomes. Each time a cell divides telomeres get shorter and when they get too short the cell can no longer make fresh copies of itself. If we live long enough the tissues and organ systems that depend on continued cell replication begin to falter, the skin sags and the internal organs go slack. Furthermore, our immune system response weakens so progressively we notice that when we get sick we don't bounce back as quickly.

It was not until the 1950s that research biologists began to view ageing itself as the disease. Later refinement of this theory emphasised the role of mitochondria, the cellular power plant that helps convert glucose into energy. As the mitochondria age, they spew out increasing amounts of free radicals that hamper energy production Dr Bill Andrews and damage the entire cell, accelerating the decline of all our systems. Among cell biologists, these mechanisms remain to this day the most accepted ways of explaining what's We also need to understand that telomeres are made of repeating happening and the reason that ageing manifestations happen to our sequences of six DNA bases – two thymine, one adenine, three face and body. guanine that serve to “cap” chromosomes, preventing potentially The spotlight to this interesting field of molecular biology attracted a lot of media attention when Professor Elizabeth Helen Blackburn, an Australian-American biological researcher at the University of California, San Francisco who was studying telomere since 1984 discovered telomerase, the enzyme that replenishes the telomere.

Blackburn and her colleague Carol Greder discovered the telomerase enzyme in a pond-scum protozoan. They noted that telomerase enzyme that the pond-scum was rich in were able to re-length the telomeres. This was identified as contributing to their longevity. For

cancerous breaks. The common analogy used to explain telomere activity is liken to the plastic tip at the end of a shoelace that holds the shoelace together and prevents it from fraying and falling apart.

Telomeres also assist cell division. Every time a cell splits, the ends of its chromosome fail to get fully copied into the two new daughter cells, thus a bit of telomeric DNA gets lost. No harm is done to the rest of the chromosome, but in cells that divide frequently the telomeres shorten with each replication. Telomerase's job is to synthesise new DNA to add to the shrinking telomeres, slowing down the decline.

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In 1993 I heard Calvin Harley, pioneering telomere biologist, lecture on the relevance of telomere shortening and its impact on our lifespan and I became very excited. His theory pointed to the fact that if we understand the rate at which telomeres shorten we can determine fairly accurately what age we can live to. What that meant was if we could find a solution for inducing telomere expression and lengthening we could possibly find the cure to ageing. For as long as I can remember I have always been interested in the cure for ageing, but I didn't like the theories that ageing was basically affected by our environment. What concerned me with those theories is that people who lived in the North Pole lived as long as people in the Equator. If environment was the determining factor how come they lived similar length of years? However, understanding the role of telomeres gave me hope to pursue that path in search of answers to longevity and disease prevention and even reversal.

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APJ Q2: I am familiar with Dr Elizabeth Blackburn’s findings on telomeres and telomerase. Are you continuing on the basis of her findings and how is your work different?

Yes, her work was very important. She discovered that telomeres in a pond scum did not shorten because of the enzymatic activity of telomerase, which re-lengthened them, so that lengthened their lifespan. At the time her team worked with Geron Corporation and I joined and worked with them. I led a team of scientists with the focus on cancer, as we were looking at ways of inhibiting the enzyme that would cure cancer. I eventually left and set up my own company, Sierra Science, as my focus was slightly different – the cure ageing and diseases, not just cancer. With cancer the mechanism is different.

We need to first inhibit the cancer cells so that they can die. Then we can look at lengthening telomeres to boost the immune system to continue to fight the cancer. Telomeres are like shoe laces – if the cap

A MAN WITH A MISSION Picking up the baton from Professor Elizabeth Helen Blackburn’s findings, macular biologist Bill Andrews, PhD, founder of Sierra Sciences, has committed his life to the pursuit of discovering the most effective telomere-extending chemicals that would not only offer solutions to disease prevention and reversal, but ultimately his aim is to find the mechanism to extending the human lifespan. Dr Andrews is himself a living case study, a work-in-progress and the art and science of staying young. He runs ultra-marathons and beats other men half his age. Committed to living out his own research findings, human life, which stands at 125 years, to live beyond this limit for at least another two decades. If you wish to gain some of his concepts you can find them in his book, Curing Aging which you can access from http://www.sierrasci.com/?p=book, which is already a bestseller.

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In February this year Dr Andrews began a series of media and live appearances in Australia and New Zealand. In Australia he was hosted by InSkin Cosmedics and in March he was hosted by Isagenix, where he presenting some of views and findings.

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Wishing to speak to him before the media frenzy hit him I chose to speak to him via phone while still in his home town in Nevada, USA. Here are some of the highlights of our conversation.

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APJ Q1: Dr Andrews, when did you start studying the molecular mechanisms of telomeres and why?

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at the end gets short the laces will fall apart. One simple way to illustrate this– short kills, and long prevents.

isolated 37 natural substances with significant activating capabilities without having to purify the chemical out of the plants.

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APJ Q3: Do you believe that the length of our life is telomere gene determined and can we support telomeres activation through lifestyle choices?

Not just telomeres affect ageing. Other facts such as diet, lack of exercise, depression, obesity and stress all contribute to free-radical increase and inflammation. It is interesting to note that three different studies have come out that show that we currently have a maximum lifespan of 125. In the past we did not know why, but now we do.

What we also know is that telomeres play a great part in our health and longevity and the issue of telomere shortening, however, absolutely has to be fixed. A study in the July 7, 2010, Journal of the American Medical Association highlighted the correlation between cancer and short telomeres. People with shorter-than-average telomeres have three times the risk of developing cancer and 11 times the risk of dying from it. Unless we restore their lengthening by identifying ways to introduce telomere-inducing substances, once our telomeres decrease to low numbers it means for you and me we are heading for death.

APJ Q4: How many telomeres do we have?

At conception, telomeres have roughly 15,000 DNA base pairs.

Because telomerase can't keep up with rapid cell division in uteri, they shrink to about 10,000 DNA base pairs at birth.

At that point the telomerase gene is mostly turned off. Without the enzyme, we continue to lose telomeric DNA – once we're out of our teens, usually we lose at a rate of 50 base pairs a year. By the time some of our telomeres drop below 5000 base pairs, typically well into our golden years, our cells may have lost their ability to divide. They become senescent, bad at doing the work they were designed to do, but good at doing things like releasing inflammatory chemicals that harm their neighbours, or they may be targeted for cell death.

APJ Q7: Is this herbal combination available through any current product?

We were approached by a nutritional supplement company called Isagenix, who have accessed this combination of the best chemicals from us under licence and they have produced a product called B IsaGenesis in supplement form, which contains our natural blend that has been demonstrated effective in telomerase activation. I believe the product is available in Australia.

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While we are not involved in the skincare and the supplements, our company does receive 10% royalties that goes directly to support our on-going research. My only involvement with these companies is as an expert telomere biologist.

APJ Q8: What are your current research goals and what is your mission?

Imagine that your telomeres are a long rope and there is a tug-of-war going on. There are 100 bad guys on one side and no- one on the other.

At the moment we have come up with 16 good guys pulling on the other end. While this may not guarantee to win the battle we are starting to make a difference. My mission is to identify and isolate

APJ Q5: Tell us about the molecule TAM818. What is it and how can it benefit the skin in its current serum formulation?

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I am not a skin expert, however, in my search for chemicals and natural substances that can be added to human cells we identified some that help induce telomerase.

We found natural products that gave us a level of success in extending telomerase of say 5%, but chemicals do a better job, up to 16% in the lengthening process. We were approached by a New Zealand skincare manufacturing company called CLEF and Rewind Youth.

CLEF is the company in New Zealand that licensed our best chemical from us, and then modified it to make TAM-818. In 2009 they developed a skincare product and modified it through their own additional research apparently resulting in a fantastic product that is reversing the signs of ageing. The product was further tested in Italy through an independent laboratory, ABICH, who were contracted to do the chemical study on the skin. They reported amazing results and currently that formula is distributed in Australia exclusively through InSkin Cosmetics and is known as TAM-818.

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APJ Q6: Does nature have answers to this issue and are their herbs that have been proven to have an impact on telomerase activation?

Most definitely! We tested over 10,000 herbs and natural chemicals for their telomerase-activating properties and we identified and

chemicals and natural substances to add to the 16 and reach 100 so that we can win the tug-of-war against ageing and disease by successfully lengthening our telomeres. This has been achieved in mice. We want it to now happen for the benefit of humans. When we do we will be able to help people get younger, decline and reverse their health issues and even live up to 150 years. Meanwhile, the race is still on, and I am passionately committed to continuing my research. I believe by 2016 we will have a drug like this.

IN CONCLUSION Having just finalised his new documentary. The Immortalists, Dr Bill Andrews is in high demand as a conference speaker and on chat shows across the globe. While in the past some of his views were considered laughable by some in the scientific community, he is slowly gaining the respect and recognition of his peers. If nothing else they marvel at his tenacity and respect his perseverance, awaiting with bated breath for the outcome of his discoveries on his quest for immortality. As he stated “The mission won't die, unless I die”.

For details on TAM818 visit www.onetruth818.com.au

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Cryomed Aesthetics

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Building your business's reputation and profitability with reliable, sophisticated, cutting-edge technology

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With a background in engineering, Josh Locker, Director and Product Development and CEO of Cryomed Health and Beauty, set out to research the quality of aesthetic medical devices on a global scale. He identified that USA and Israeli manufacturers were the leading innovators in aesthetic technology and dominated the cosmetic device industry. “They were the pioneers, and while their equipment was of high quality they were also very expensive, ranging from $150,000 to $270,000,” Josh said. This is going back to their introduction in 1994.

Back in those days his then company, Sydney Medical Solutions, was catering only for cosmetic medical practices.

Then in 2011 while attending the World Congress of Dermatology in Korea he discovered some amazingly sophisticated, high-quality cosmetic devices that totally blew him away. Their manufacturing standards were very high and built with excellence to deliver safe, quality assured and precise treatment outcomes, and furthermore, they were sophisticated and beautifully made. These were high-end performance devices that ticked all the boxes for excellence in performance and reliability.

The new era of cosmetic medical and aesthetic product development had expanded dramatically, with China also embarking on this trend. However, their devices did not meet with international quality assured manufacturing standards and were unpredictable at best. Meanwhile, research finding were starting to emerge that confirmed the creditability of lightbased devices and the treatment outcomes they could deliver.

As a result, the demand for sophisticated aesthetic devices was growing, as was the plethora of manufacturing companies who were seeing the opportunity to be part of this boom.

and medical fields a variety of amazing, beautifully engineered systems we have over 19 devices to cater for every need and requirement. We have multi-functional platforms for those who require a combination of technologies, such as our Hydrabeauty, which combines a complete facial skincare and cleansing system. It uses a range of specialised tips from the diamond handpiece to exfoliate and cleanse your pores, penetrate the skin with premium solutions through the electroporation handpiece, and hydro dermabrasion handpiece with unique and efficient radial tips. This device has the capabilities of leaving your clients' skin clear, hydrated and beautiful.

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“Then there is our DUET RF Fractional system that provides focused advanced radiofrequency technologies –Fractional RF skin resurfacing and Thermal RF deep dermal tissue tightening and remodelling.

“Additionally, we also have numerous specialised devices. This is because we believe that while multifunctional platforms offer flexibility and diversity of treatment capabilities, they often don't offer the same level of intensive capabilities that a specialised device can.”

THE CRYOMED PROMISE So what is the Crymed Health and Beauty promise?

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“Most of our devices for health and beauty are manufactured by a global-leading corporation in Korea,” Josh confirmed.

“They offer us quality assurance and excellence in manufacturing standards, and because of the enormity of their market share they can develop these technologies at an affordable price point.” Josh went on to say that with these advances in technology, it is no longer necessary to have to pay a high price for a high-quality device.

“We are able to offer salons and clinics within the aesthetics

The company is committed to offering premium-quality, highperformance, sophisticated and beautifully engineered devices. Our range is extensive to help any clinic or salon step their service up to deliver advanced aesthetic results that consumers now expect. We offer warranties up to two years. Our point of difference is that we bring incredible knowledge and expertise in these technologies. We offer business exceptional training through highly qualified leading industry experts, and our training is available and ongoing where needed, for which we do not charge. Our service is professional, reliable and unbeatable. We have engineers, skilled educators and trainers available to service everyone. Cryomed Health and Beauty strives to ensure that businesses of any size can afford premium, medical-grade systems in the salon or clinic to suit their budget, with flexible payment plans available.

Contact: Cryomed Health and Beauty Ph: 1300 346 448 or 02 9457 8542

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Exclusive Genesis Pulse

“Designed by Doctors, used by Doctors” Essential-6 cut off filters Allows you to use the CBL for almost every application and reduce treatment times compared to other IPLs

Personalised Presets A new feature enabling users to save and adjust presets for each patient’s skin type and application

Fast Firing Rate CBL’s rapid repetition rates enable faster treatments to optimise your clinic’s profitability

Adjustable Cooling System The CBL uses fully adjustable sapphire contact cooling giving you unparalleled safety

Long Life Handpiece Certified to last over 100,000 pulses 50% more than most IPLs on the market

“Our mission is to provide beautiful, supported equipment – each device looks wonderful and works even better. We’ll work with you to have your clients feeling and looking fantastic. That’s our promise.”

Contact us at cbeauty.com.au or call 1800 455 441 to book a demonstration or find out more.

productinnovations

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It's a winner: Bio-Hydroderm Trinity named Best Product of 2015

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Microdermabrasion is showing no signs of slowing down as one of the most popular non-surgical beauty treatments and it's thanks to forwardthinking technology such as Bio-Hydroderm Trinity that it's still staking its place in the industry. The fact that this wet/dry, crystalfree and super hydrating method of microdermabrasion (also called hydrodermabrasion) produces such radiant results, allows this tried-and-true beauty treatment to really roll with the times. So it may come as no surprise that BioHydroderm Trinity has been awarded LNE & Spa magazine's 'Best Product' of 2015 in the Equipment for the Face category. Skin and beauty therapists love Bio-Hydroderm Trinity because it uses a gentle diamond-tip approach to exfoliation, vacuum suction (which has been shown to significantly improve overall renewal results) and four AQUAFUSE skincare solutions to deliver targeted corrective results for all skin types from sensitive right through to acne and photodamaged complexions. So long to the microdermabrasion days of harsh, abrasive aluminium crystals that only suit the most robust skin types; with the Bio-Hydroderm Trinity, everyone can enjoy smooth, ultra-hydrated and beautiful skin. To discover the many ways Bio-Hydroderm Trinity can add value to your

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business, call The Global Beauty Group on 1300 006 607 or visit www.TheGlobalBeautyGroup.com.au

New COUNTRY WEEKEND Skincare makeup collection Get the look that's both alluring and subtle with Country Weekend, the new collection from jane iredale THE SKIN CARE MAKEUP®. This captivating assortment of shades sets a sophisticated tone. Make eyes mesmerising with hues inspired by tranquil countryside landscapes and add a delicious finishing touch to lips and cheeks with a colour that is unique for each wearer.

The Limited Edition Getaway Eye Shadow Kit offers five enchanting PurePressed® Eye Shadow shades, sized to fit the recommended application.

The highly pigmented shadows are simple to blend, sensitivity-tested and they stay put for a gorgeous, natural look. Enhance the eyes further with the newest shade of Jelly Jar™ Gel Eyeliner, Espresso – a shimmery brown grey. The soft and creamy Jelly Jar Gel Eyeliner creates the rich, captivating look of kohl, but in a natural formula free of chemicals. It is long-lasting and water-resistant. Finish the look with Forever Peach Just Kissed Lip and Cheek Stain, which is a multipurpose lip and cheek stain that looks like it was created just for the wearer. The non-drying, long-lasting, all-natural stain adjusts to an individual's own chemistry. Items sold separately. Limited

Edition Getaway Eye Shadow Kit, RRP $99 Espresso Jelly Jar Gel Eyeliner, RRP $50, Forever Peach Just Kissed Lip and Cheek Stain, RRP $54. For further details contact Margifox Distributors today Ph: 1300 850 008

jane iredale HandDrink™ Hand Cream – A Beautiful Show of Hands

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Indulge your hands in a luxurious sip of hydrating protection with HandDrink™, a new hand cream with SPF 15 from jane iredale. Women know that hydration alone cannot keep hands looking their best and they should take care of their hands as they would their face. Botanical extracts help to brighten and even skin tone while broad-spectrum UV assists in preventing future damage. Rose oil helps replenish vital moisture, leaving hands feeling renewed, radiant and delicately scented. HandDrink contains added benefits of SPF 15, delicately perfumed with Organic Rose essential oils, infused with active ingredients and antioxidants that help to protect, moisturise and replenish. Liposomal encapsulated Apple Extract may assist in brightening and evening skin tone, while Green Tea and Blackberry Extracts provide nourishment and antioxidant protection.

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For further details contact Margifox Distributors today Ph: 1300 850 008

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Raffine Dermopen Raffine Dermopen is the easy-to-use microneedling dermal pen for collagen stimulation that can be used for various applications from scars and stretch marks to alopecia, hyperpigmentation and overall rejuvenation.

The Raffine Dermopen is a simple home or clinic-use device that delivers impressive results for micro-needling treatments through the application of Hyaluronic and SCell serums, increasing effectiveness and improving treatment outcome.

To ensure ultimate skin support H-alpha30 Hyaluronic serum and S-alpha30 S-cell serum are used during and after treatment respectively to both improve results and achieve optimum effects, and at the same time offer protection to the skin posttreatment.

Suitable for the effective treatment of acne, superficial scars, alopecia, stretchmarks, collagen stimulation, cellulite reduction, and skin tightening and firming.

Raffine Dermopen offers ultra-safe needling, ergonomic design, economical and easy to replace tips that are also adjustable.

Available from Cryomed H&B 1800 455 441 www.cbeauty.com.au

Hydrabeauty superior cleansing, exfoliation and ingredient penetration device

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Hydrabeauty is more than a microdermabrasion device, it is the complete facial skincare and cleansing system. A multi-functional device using a range of specialised tips from the diamond handpiece to exfoliate and cleanse your pores, penetrate the skin with premium solutions through the electroporation handpiece, and hydro dermabrasion handpiece with unique and efficient radial tips, there is nothing to stand in the way to leaving your clients' skin clear, hydrated and beautiful.

The Hydrabeauty treatment system specialises in revitalising the face and replenishing the skin. It is suitable for treating all skin types. Hydrabeauty can improve and correct any skin symptom with its unique applicators and multiple, customisable modalities. This amazing device offers: Automatic Cleaning System one-step cleaning system, Dual Radial Tip large and small size, User-Friendly Interface 5.7 inch LCD screen, Vacuum Power Adjustment 5 levels, In-Flow Rate Adjustment 3 levels and Premium Solutions unique to Hydrabeauty.

Available from Cryomed H&B 1800 455 441 www.cbeauty.com.au

EPIDERMAL GROWTH FACTOR SERUM – your new weapon in anti-ageing and rejuvenation

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Epidermal Growth Factor or EGF plays an important role in the regulation of cell growth. It provides stimulation of proliferation on keratinocytes and fibroblasts, stimulation of collagen synthesis from fibroblasts and skin cell rejuvenation giving an anti-ageing effect. The Epidermal Growth Factor Serum (EGF) inhibits the process of aging by relaunching cellular activators for elastin and collagen production. This has a remarkable effectiveness in improving skin appearance and correcting the skin ageing process. In this new formula by Beauty Med, EGF is combined with Hyaluronic Acid to accelerate cellular renewal, stimulate fibroblasts and stimulate collagen synthesis, while providing superior hydration to the skin.

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To see how Beauty Med EGF Serum can benefit your business, contact Australasian Medical Aesthetics on 1300 781 239, or visit our website at www.medicalbeautyequipment.com

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NEW-GENERATION INNOVATOR Delivering The Complete Product Spectrum Jacqui Guinane is an energetic, passionate and dynamic business woman and the owner of Dynamic Skin Solution. In less than three years Jacqui has managed to launch three successful brands that cover the full salon and spa spectrum of cosmeceutical skincare, bodycare and an amazing skincare-based makeup. Her success is attributed both to her astuteness in selecting winning brands and her acute understanding of the changing consumer demands and market needs for unique, niche, high-performance, new generation skin, body and makeup products.

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Despite challenging economic times with a high percentage of businesses closing down, Jacqui has been able to offer salons amazing products that have generated incredible sales and have propelled businesses to a stronger and more successful financial position.

Having also identified winning business strategies, Jacqui is leading the way to successful business growth both for her company and for her partners salons, spas and clinics that use both her products and her successful business approach to retail, growth and profitability. She is part of the new breed of successful business entrepreneurs who are moving from strength to strength, challenging the notion that a

business's success is determined primarily by external forces. In an interview with APJ Jacqui shares how she came to choose her brands and why they are so successful.

APJ Q1: Jacqui, we know that Resveratrol is a natural phenol that has good science as an antioxidant and an anti-ageing ingredient when taken internally. How does it work on the skin as a topical cream or serum?

Resveratrol and other polyphenols are powerful antioxidants also when used topically. They can also help improve circulation and help protect the skin's elastin and collagen fibres, which are important when treating all skin conditions, especially ageing skin. Grape seed contains two important polyphenols – Resveratrol and Proanthocyanidins (oligomeric proanthocyanidins). Scientific studies have shown that the antioxidant power of proanthocyanidins is 20 times greater than vitamin E and 50 times greater than vitamin C. Extensive research suggests that grape-seed extract is beneficial in many areas of health because of its antioxidant effect to bond with collagen, promoting youthful skin, cell health, elasticity, and flexibility in the skin. Other studies have shown that

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proanthocyanidins help to protect the body from sun damage when applied topically. Proathcyanidins have also shown to help improve vision (even for those with diabetic retinopathy), may also improve flexibility in joints, arteries, and body tissues such as the heart, when taken internally. These incredible polyphenols

– Resveratrol and

Proanthocyanidins – are both found in the skin of red grapes and also in red wines, using “Wine for Health” also known as “Vinotherapy”.

While there is a lot of science that validates benefits when taken internally, there is emerging science to support their benefit in topical p r o d u c t s w h e n t h e y a r e f o r m u l a t e d a p p r o p r i a t e l y.

APJ Q2: What is so special about the D'vine skincare range and what is its competitive advantage? What results are you experiencing with these products?

I was looking at importing to Australia a high-quality professional skincare range and I conducted my research over a two- year period. In the process I tried close to two dozen brands until I found what I was looking for. For me, the most important consideration was the range to deliver results. My second consideration was that the active ingredients in the product were extracted from a scientificallyproven natural source. They also needed to be affordable, smelt and felt amazing (naturally scented of course) as well as beautifully packaged so that they would be appealing visually as well. It may not seem like a lot to ask, but honestly, when you choose “results” you often sacrifice the “smell good” and “feel” factor and the luxury that so many clients want when they come for a facial treatment! D'vine ticked all of these boxes. It was also based around “Vinotherapy”, a relatively new trend in Australia, but hugely popular in Europe and more recently the USA. The benefits of drinking red wines for their antioxidants and for heart health are well documented, but like all things taken internally, our skin is the last place to benefit. So it makes sense to apply products containing red and white wines and grape-seed extracts directly to the skin for maximum benefit – apply the ingredients where we want to see the results! D'vine also uses a “complex” of actives in EVERY product, not just one key active. The D'vine Complex is made up of Red Wines, to stimulate arterial circulation and detoxify the skin; White Wines for natural sugars to micro exfoliate the skin; Grape Seed Extracts to accelerate healing and help to reduce inflammation, as well as Pomegranate Extract, a powerful antioxidant, which helps to strengthen the cell membrane, protect against trans-epidermal water loss and facilitates collagen synthesis.

What caught my eye first was their beautiful displays. I also loved the fact that is wasn't just another mineral makeup range, it offered both traditional AND mineral collections and every product contained antioxidants, botanical extracts as well as peptides. Unlike skincare, which requires a consultation and prescription, makeup shouldn't be a hard-sell for salons; if it's good quality and reasonably priced clients will buy it! Feedback from our salon partners has been phenomenal.

Some are crediting Sormé with increasing their retail sales more than any other brand in their business! Skin clinics who just focus on facial treatments are finding Sormé Makeup to be an amazing retail income that requires very little effort because of the affordable price point (RRP $17.95-$57.95). Their clients are buying multiple products at a time, without hesitation. We have also extended our launch offer, which includes free display stand and testers with all retail packages.

Salons can start small and grow their Sormé collections, as display

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“ She is part of the new breed

of successful business entrepreneurs who are moving from strength to strength, challenging the notion that a business's success is determined primarily by

D'vine Skin Care is all about getting the skin to its healthiest possible state. Our clinics are getting amazing results with ageing skin as well as with pigmentation conditions and acne. They are able to treat clients with various peels, through to indulgent rituals. D'vine is a small, concise range that delivers luxury AND results! ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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APJ Q3: Tell us a little about the new makeup range you introduced to Australia – Sormé. Why did you choose it?

How does it fit in with your skincare line and are salons seeing the value of introducing it to their clients?

We launched Sormé Treatment Cosmetics at Sydney Spa & Beauty Expo last year. Many of our stockists were asking for a makeup range to complement D'vine Skin Care. Most professional makeup ranges in Australia are just too expensive for the average client. I found Sormé on my honeymoon, while visiting Cosmoprof Las Vegas (only a beauty therapist would go to a trade show on their honeymoon, right!).

external forces.” stands start from just $215. Sormé Treatment Cosmetics is an affordable, award-winning, professional-quality makeup that is very well received by today's consumer.

APJ Q4: You also have an amazing spa body line. Tell us about it and how can a salon or spa effectively promote it in their business?

Sranrom Body Care was the first range we launched in Australia close to three years ago. I felt salons were really limited in their options for affordable body care products. Sranrom is all themed around “Thai Herbal Healing”, using traditional Thai essential oils and plant extracts to create luxurious treatment rituals for the hand, feet and body that are complemented with aromatic home spa products. Then last year we launched Sranrom Tropical Body Products, all based around Tropical Thai Fruits. These days everyone is so stressed and our salon partners are now able to offer truly therapeutic manicures, pedicures and body treatments and then recommend amazing body care products for their clients to take home and continue that important de-stressing factor! Salons and spas are more than just a “beauty salon” . With the right products in their business, salon owners can now be real “wellness centres”.

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For D'Vine Skin Care, Sormé Treatment Cosmetics and Sranrom Body Care contract Jacqui Guinane at Dynamic Skin Solutions Ph: 02 9525 8368|Email: info@dynamicskinsolutions.com.au| W: www.dynamicskinsolutions.com.au

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businessetiquette

Build a Robust Business through

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The Art of Etiquette

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By Julie Hyne It’s one thing to own a salon and have the latest technology, treatments and stunning fixtures and fittings, it’s another to then be able to attract the right type of clients into your door and keep them.

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This industry is not becoming competitive, it is already very competitive, and as your clients become increasingly aware of all of the options and prices that are available to them from their own sourcing online, so the need increases for you as a business owner to think of what you can do to make your salon their salon of choice.

Customer service is the biggest driver of business these days next to price. Statistics tell us that 25% of clients who visit your premises are likely to say something positive, but beware, 65% are likely to speak negatively, and 48% who have had negative experiences will tell 10 or more individuals. While I am not advocating that this is the case for your salon, it is something to be mindful of, and so take precautions necessary to ensure that your salon does not fall into this zone.

That brings me to the topic of etiquette, and how to employ some good old-fashioned principles into your business that every client will notice, appreciate and cause them to remain loyal.

Just the word etiquette can create question marks in people's minds, as it isn't a topic that is not widely taught anymore. We are victims of such a busy lifestyle that the niceties of doing business, in meeting and greeting others, can often be forgotten, or not considered important in the rush of getting more done in less time.

I'm sure you have heard the expression take time to smell the roses.

What this is trying to tell all of us is that we need to slow our lives down and really take a look at what is going on in our lives and the world. Missing important moments and cues that can foster positive relationships with the right people you want to attract into your salon can damage your business. You might not see the impact of this straight away, but you may well experience it over time as the ripple effects of bad customer experiences take hold.

“ Relationships, after all, are what build a business, not a product, or systems, or technology ” Etiquette is an intangible; you cannot touch it or purchase it. It's something that is learnt through experience, and practising good etiquette in your business can help build your reputation and increase the number of loyal clients.

Common courtesies are never out of place. These are the little gestures you perform out of respect for others, and yes, it can take time out of your busy day to do these. Simple things such as opening the door for a client can make her feel very special, but how many of you as salon owners would take the time and trouble to do that? ㄰

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It can be a challenge to stop and really appreciate people who matter to you. For example, how many of you would take the time to: Send a hand-written note or birthday card to a VIP client Stop to greet a client even if she wasn't booked in with you?

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Simply taking the time to acknowledge others can instantly alter your mood and the mood of your client, resulting in a more positive culture and environment in your salon, something clients, and staff, find very attractive!

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Applying etiquette is really using the basic principles of respect, consideration and honesty, and comes across in how you communicate with others, whether it's with your voice, body language and gestures, or even your personal image. Your outward appearance is not only an important element of how you present yourself, it reflects the importance you attach to the position you hold and the salon you work in.

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When we communicate, the degree of formality your communication delivers will depend on your business's culture and the clients you are servicing. Many will be happy with 'informal' politeness, but there will always be one who expects something more and could find your mannerisms rude.

Some salon owners have embraced etiquette well, to the point where they have developed standards of etiquette for not only staff, but also clients who attend their salon. I am a big fan of this as it not only sets the scene for what a client can expect, it also can go a long way to eliminating confusion and bad manners from clients too that can result in bad client experiences and those destructive ripple effects I mentioned earlier.

Etiquette in your salon can help you build a robust business if used correctly, and to help you I have compiled a list of common words that if used appropriately can make a big difference to how your salon and staff are perceived by your clients.

1. Please.

Using the word 'please' shows respect and consideration. It actually changes a command to a request and can set the tone for whatever comes after it. Next time you have to ask someone for something, note the difference in the tone using and not using the word please”.

2. Thank you and you're welcome. If you have ever had someone do something for you, not acknowledging the act with a thank you is considered rude, as is not replying with a 'you're welcome' using these words indicates you are most gracious.

3. Excuse me. Using these two words demonstrate that you are aware of having possibly inconvenienced someone. Situations where you might use this word are: ! Making a necessary interruption ! Making a request ! Acknowledging an error ! Acknowledging a faux pas ! Leaving a conversation ! Leaving a room 4. I'm sorry. When you accept and make apologies graciously it demonstrates that you are of a courteous, mature nature. The simple act of apologising can defuse volatile situations, and is in some instances an act of kindness too.

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There are no boundaries when it comes to etiquette. It is something we all should be aware of if we want to adopt sound guidelines for business and building solid relationships. Relationships, after all, are what build a business, not a product, or systems, or technology.

As Ken Segall, author of Insanely Simple puts it this way, “unless you are in the business of sterilising things, business is no place to be sterile. To connect with humans is to speak with a human voice.”

And that means being honest and having respect and consideration through the art and practice of etiquette.

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If you would like to speak directly with Julie Hyne on matters of Salon Image and Etiquette, you can do so by sending her an email: info@business4beauty.com or by phone: 0433114841

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APJ 67

APAN Aesthetics

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SYDNEY

Sunday 21June 2015 Mastering the Business of Aesthetics The advances and new innovations that are happening in the aesthetics industry are changing the scope of what consumers are looking for, while social medial is changing the language and the message we need to communicate with.

This conference program will clearly define the emerging new developments and identify strategies that work to help you grow your market share.

There are many voices telling you what you need to do through various approaches, but which road to take? This can sometimes be confusing. What this conference program will give you is access to industry wisdom – objective, credible, professional advice so that you can prioritise your future direction based on statistical facts and trustworthy information. Attend this conference and get your answers!

Gain new energy and grow! Join us and embrace new knowledge, gain a new perspective and be part of a dynamic network.

CONFERENCE PROGRAM AND SPEAKERS 8.15am – 8.45am REGISTRATION, PICK UP DELEGATE'S KIT AND NETWORKING TIME: 9.00am – 9.45am TOPIC: ESTABLISHING YOUR BLUEPRINT FOR SUCCESS SPEAKER: Tina Viney President/CEO APAN

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You are constantly evolving your business, but your message and your narrative is still the same.

Maybe it's time to revisit your blueprint, modify it and give your direction greater clarity through a more contemporary approach. In this lecture you will gain a greater understanding of current industry changes and how to ensure you incorporate then into the blueprint of your business to ensure currency.

Tina Viney is the foremost expert in industry trends and regulations.

She will present up-to-the minute updates on key industry changes and recommendations on winning strategies.

In this lecture you will learn: ! Key market drivers that are changing the aesthetic industry ! Regulations updates ! The role of a business blueprint and how to successfully use it ! Recommendations on what is currently working and why

NETWORKING BREAK 9.45am – 10.15am TIME: 10.15am – 11.00am TOPIC: MEDICAL AND AESTHETIC INTEGRATION SPEAKER: Gay Wardle The collaborative relationship between a salon and a medical practitioner can be a highly successful one when it is done correct and when the correct protocols are put in place. However, currently salons and clinics are experiencing missed opportunities in ensuring these procedures and outcomes offer exceptional value to your client and increased profits to your business.

Gay Wardle is highly committed to improving the level of education in the aesthetics industry. Having completed a Bachelor of Health Science (Dermal Therapies), she is passionate about empowering business owners to step up their services and increase their profits.

In this lecture you will learn: ! What treatments you can offer to support and sustain cosmetic medical procedures ! Extending your service menu to cater for this new market sector ! Increase your sales through a comprehensive understanding of what injectables your clients are having ! The right and wrong way of establishing a profitable collaboration

NETWORKING BREAK 11am – 11.30am

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Mercure Sydney

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TIME: 11.30 – 12.15 pm TOPIC: NEUROPATHY: HOW THE NERVOUS SYSTEM IMPACTS THE SKIN AND BODY SPEAKER: Professor Ray Hayek, Executive Dean, Australasian College of Health and Wellness As aesthetic therapists or cosmetic nurses certain procedures you perform may induce pain. Additionally, various skin disorders such as acne or skin allergies will also manifest skin sensitivity and even painful lesions.

As a therapist understanding the physiology of pain, what causes pain and what it is signalling is critical to correct skin diagnosis and choice of treatment. Equally important is the understanding of methods of pain management, their safety parameters and limitation. Professor Hayek will address all these issues in a compelling lecture offering you insight into new scientific discoveries on the subject.

In this lecture you will learn: ! What is pain threshold and what determines pain signalling ! Why does the body experience pain and what is it telling us ! Pain-management techniques and anaesthetics ! What is the relevance of pain to skin disorders

LUNCH AND NETWORKING BREAK 12.15pm – 1.15pm

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TIME: 1.15pm – 2.00pm TOPIC:THE SEVEN HABITS OF HIGHLY EFFECTIVE BUSINESS OPERATORS SPEAKER: Caroline Nelson As a business grows so the need to streamline your operations for efficiency and profitability may need to also be reviewed to accommodate your growing and expanding services. Establishing the right mindset for

implementing change is not enough – to maintain consistent followthrough requires establishing the right systems and protocols that will support your growth and profitability. Caroline Nelson is considered one of Australia's leading beauty business coaches. Constantly perfecting her systems and methodologies has allowed her to help numerous businesses turn around from a struggling position to a place of secure growth and business success.

In this lecture you will learn: ! To build a strong business foundation with the systems to increase cash-flow and bottom-line profits ! How to empower your team and increase performance and results in re-booking, up-selling, retail, and series selling ! How to “deep-dive” marketing in the most effective but lowcost methods that connect with and attract today's consumer ! The Secret to how your business can be unique in a saturated marketplace

NETWORKING BREAK 2.00pm – 2.30pm

TIME: 2.30pm – 3.30pm TOPIC: HOW TO WIN CLIENTS FOR LIFE SPEAKER: A forum of successful business experts There is nothing like learning from those who have taken the theory into practice, make mistakes, but finally achieve business breakthrough and taken their business to the next level.

This forum will allow you to meet some amazing business owners in our industry who will share with you their most personal and important strategies that is helping them gain and retain clients for life.

This will be an interactive session and you will be given the opportunity to ask questions to individuals on the forum.

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In this lecture you will learn: ! How to get your staff to reach their sales targets

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! ! !

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The best-kept secrets for client loyalty The most profitable and successful marketing strategies What successful changes have they implemented in 2014

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NETWORKING BREAK 3.30pm – 4.00pm TIME: 4.00pm – 4.45pm TOPIC: DOUBLE YOUR BUSINESS THROUGH EFFECTIVE USE OF COMMUNICATION TECHNOLOGY SPEAKER: Mark Viney, B.A, Grad.Dip.Ed. AAA+ Cert.IT

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In the constant time-poor business environment emerging new communication technologies can waste as much time as they can save you if not used effectively. Learn how to achieve your goals in a timely manner through effective strategies of developing technologies. Mark Viney is a qualified educator and IT expert. He has been involved with the Beauty and Aesthetics industry for over 22 years and understands the needs for businesses to work cost-effectively with minimal staff.

In this lecture you will learn: ! The latest cost-effective ways of communicating with your clients ! How to integrate technology for best results and to grow your business ! The best way your business can benefit from APPS ! Presenting a unified business image across all communication technologies

REGISTRATION This is a fully catered for event including meals, morning and afternoon tea, delegate’s kit and Professional Development Statement of Attendance. Enjoy a day of great education, business support and networking opportunities. Visit our exhibition for great products and equipment and also go in the draw for prizes. If you have attended the Brisbane Conference you can still attend the Sydney event as the program is a different one.

PRE-REGISTRATION IS ESSENTIAL FOR CATERING PURPOSES APAN MEMBERS: $220 – Non members: $239 If you wish to register three or more: SPECIAL RATE IS $200 FOR MEMBERS SPECIAL RATE FOR THREE OR MORE $220.

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To register for the conference visit www.apanetwork.com and complete your registration form on-line or phone 07 5593 0360 for any further questions.

POST GRADUATE WORKSHOP Advanced Eyebrow and Eyeliner Techniques

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FOR HOTEL ACCOMMODATION AT THE MERCURE PHONE 02 9217 6677 AND QUOTE APAN CONFERENCE EVENT AND YOU WILL RECEIVE 10% DISCOUNT ON THE CURRENT RATE. THE MERCURE HOTEL IS LOCATED AT 818-820 GEORGE STREET, SYDNEY NEAR DARLING HARBOUR.

MONDAY 22nd JUNE MEDICAL COSMETIC TATTOOING

If you are a qualified cosmetic tattooist, APAN is conducting a Post-Graduate Workshop on the following day after the conference (see next page for details).

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MEDICAL COSMETIC TATTOOING

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Post-Graduate Workshop

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ADVANCED EYEBROW AND EYE-LINER TECHNIQUES

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SYDNEY

MONDAY 22ND JUNE 2015 FULL DAY TRAINING APAN - Sponsored by the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network CONTINUED PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT LEARNING OBJECTIVES WILL INCLUDE:

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Underlying causes for partial and full hair loss Understanding how hair follicles are impacted Dealing with Alopecia and Cancer patients – Psychological mindset of the patients and support The issue of pain threshold Identifying the right design to create harmony and balance Determining the appropriate techniques Specialised 3D techniques Design and performing eyebrow and eyeliner Reviewing treatment and providing post-treatment advice Strategies for successful referrals, etiquette and formalities when working with plastic surgeons and medical specialists

WHEN: Monday 22 June 2015 Following APAN Sydney Conference WHERE: Location to be advised TIME: 8.30am-5pm WHO CAN ATTEND: Qualified Cosmetic Tattooists YOU WILL RECEIVE: Statement of Attendance in Medical Cosmetic Tattooing – Medical Eyebrow and Eyeliner techniques

MEALS: Morning/Afternoon tea will be provided as well as lunch COST: APAN Member $1290 Non-Member $1390 REGISTRATION: There are limited spaces available for the workshop so please register early to avoid disappointment.

Register at www.apanetwork. Go to Conference Registration Sydney and select the Cosmetic Tattooing Workshop.

JANETTE ZAKOS has 25 years’ experience in Cosmetic Tattooing.

She is a qualified beauty therapist, medical cosmetic tattooists, with a nursing background. Janette has worked extensively with medical practitioners and is also qualified to deliver Government Approved Qualifications in Cosmetic Tattooing through a registered RTO for those who wish to formalise and upgrade their qualifications.

Skilfully performed Cosmetic Tattooing delivers amazing aesthetic enhancement that can improve harmony and balance and take years off someone's appearance. It can also enhance self-esteem and is particularly rewarding for the practitioner to assist and support individuals who are suffering from medical conditions such as alopecia or cancer, leaving them bald or without eyebrows and even without eyelashes.

We have some amazing talented individuals that are considered not just well-educated and experienced in Cosmetic Tattooing, but also pioneers of their own methodologies and techniques.

Following the APAN Conference in Sydney, APAN will be sponsoring another exciting workshop for qualified cosmetic tattooists who wish to advance their skills and knowledge in Eyebrow and Eye-liner techniques that apply to medical cosmetic tattooing. When someone totally loses their eyebrows or lashes the principles of cosmetic tattoo require additional skills and knowledge in order to achieve a natural look that will be pleasing and acceptable to the patient, minimise their stress and enhance their self-esteem and support their sense of dignity.

We invite qualified Cosmetic Tattooists to attend this incredible workshop and learn from Janette the latest and most up-to-date techniques in Eyebrow and Eye-liner for medical Cosmetic Tattooing.

For further information contact APAN Ph: 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com Registration forms must be submitted by the 21st June 2015.

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Discounted services and how to COMPETE AND WIN

By Jana Elston There is nothing more alarming than seeing your competitor offer a similar service for next to nothing. I have seen some crazy pricing out there, and wonder in amazement how on earth do they plan to survive when they are practically giving away the services? And, in most cases, losing a great deal of money as well?

WHAT IS HAPPENING TO OUR INDUSTRY? Today, more than ever, the competition in the beauty services industry is fierce. I have been in this industry since 1991 and I have never seen a s m a n y b e a u t y s a l o n s a s t h e r e a r e t o d a y.

The traditional beauty salon is being affected from many angles. In the past there used to be on average one or two salons in a suburbs, now there is double that.

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In addition to more beauty salons per area, there are now nail bars offering nail and waxing services, brow bars, laser clinics, skinrejuvenation clinics, hairdressers introducing beauty services, massage practices, home salons, small single-operator boutiques, and not directly related to, but certainly impacting on, pharmacies and department stores giving away free treatments with product purchases. Sadly, most small beauty service businesses are run by people with very little experience or formal training in business.

Inevitably, the only way they know to attract clients is through discounting. Often they are advised by friends, family or salespeople from discount websites with no experience in running a business.

WHY HEAVILY DISCOUNTED PROMOTIONS DON'T WORK Offering a cheap service in the hope of gaining new clients rarely works. Bargain hunters are loyal to only one thing – a bargain and these are not the kind of clients you want if you wish to build a business. They rarely spend more than what is advertised. I have seen

many businesses extremely disappointed when they put a lot of hard work and effort into a cheap service offer, only to find these clients do not re-book, because they are always looking for a bargain price. They rarely upgrade to other services and almost never purchase professional products. Most of these promotions cost more than the service, so the salon is giving away these services for free, and when you do the sums it's actually costing them money to do these treatments. In the hope of attracting new clients with a cheap service promotion, salons end up losing a great deal of money, and I have personally seen businesses go broke as they cannot ever recover. It is really heartbreaking. Businesses that offer cheap services will always be seen as cheap. Once they go down this road, it's very difficult to recover from this reputation. .

IT'S BUSINESS SUICIDE – JUST CRUNCH THE NUMBERS This weekend I've had a look at some discount sites offering treatments. There was one selling a three-hour spa package (body massage, facial, mani and pedi) for $89. After the salon is charged 50% commission on the sale of this service by the website they only get $44.50 for three hours of work! Let's say if they use very cheap, basic products and it costs them $15 in total. That leaves $30, which is $10 per hour gross. Tax has to be paid, wages, insurance, rent, repurchasing of products and materials, etc and wait for the best part – they sold over 100 of these.

That is 300 hours they have committed themselves to working for nothing. And it only gets worse. Once the promotion is sold, they will be inundated with calls to book in these clients, leaving no room to book in their regular and full- paying clients. Now it's easy to see how people go broke with these offers. So why do they do it?

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To be frank, most who are doing this form of promotion are doing it from ignorance – not understanding the huge financial investment of this promotion, and mostly out of desperation. Sadly, they just end up getting themselves into a deeper hole, unable to pay their utility and supplier bills, wages and rent, and end up suffering from a great deal of stress. .

and the latest in skin treatment technology. Back your business with strong supportive product brands – brands that take training and business seriously. Look for brands that have the resources and human expertise to take your business to the next level, and beyond. Talk about these in your marketing material to educate your clients why you are using SUPERIOR quality products that deliver real results.

SO HOW WILL THIS AFFECT YOUR BUSINESS?

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! Impeccable appearance: Make your business a beautiful, warm At first, I can understand why I would be worried if I saw my and inviting place to visit, make sure your decor is professional, competitor do crazy discount pricing on similar services. Will my up-to-date and modern. Keep everything tidy and clean, in good clients see the advertisement (whether it is on a website, local paper or repair and working well. De-clutter, and rotate your flyers handed out)? What will they think, and most importantly, will merchandising regularly. Make sure you are fully and well they be tempted to buy the stocked. You can't sell it if it's discounted service from my Clients love being treated as special. not on the shelf! Empty shelves competitor? excite no one! Great They love to be acknowledged, remembered, merchandising stimulates If you are doing things right, impulse buys (that people will you have nothing to worry treated with courtesy, calmly LOVE), you just need the about. Sure, there may be one “knowhow”. or two that will be tempted, and with elegance and style. but it will never last. ! Superior client service: Ensure everyone is thoroughly trained Just think about what I have discussed above, bargain hunters are loyal in superior client service, interpersonal and communication skills. only to one thing – a bargain! These are not your clients, and these are Ensure staff are immaculately presented at all times. If they wish not the clients you even want! They will just keep on salon hopping, to be taken seriously, they need to look like professionals. In chasing the latest sale. No matter how well you treat them, they will college, I used to train my therapists to imagine they were going to always expect a great service, for a bargain. be on TV. Cameras will be filming them and later will broadcast them on TV. I told them to imagine they were going to treat top celebrities, so how would they interact with them? How would COMPETITION IS GREAT they present themselves to them, what would they say, and how Competition forces you to look at your businesses critically, to see would they behave? It's a whole different mindset. what you are doing right and what you need to improve on. If you find your competitor is advertising a ridiculously cheap service, that's great! This is a terrific opportunity to reinforce to your clients what you have always done, and your superior standards of service and quality of treatments with your clients. And if you are not already doing this, it's time to do so.

QUALITY WILL ALWAYS TRIUMPH OVER DISCOUNTS Making your clients feel extra special is key. Products that deliver better results, but are delivered with contemptuous, arrogant or inferior service will guarantee that your clients will eventually look elsewhere. Give them a fantastic treatment rich in experience and results.

WINNING TIPS FOR BUSINESS GROWTH So here are a few tips that will make a huge difference to your income if you choose to implement them.

Look at all aspects where you are superior (or wish to be) to your competition:

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are delivered by highly skilled, trained and experienced therapists. Send your therapists to regular training with industry experts and your suppliers. They are regularly updated by the latest in technology and invest their own time and money in ongoing professional development. Employ only staff that are willing to invest in their professional skills and knowledge.

Support your claims of expertise by clearly displaying qualifications, licences and experience in the business and your marketing material to your clients. YOUR STAFF ARE YOUR BUSINESS. It's an old lesson I learnt very early on.

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Quality training and expertise: Make sure all your treatments

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Quality products pay off: Use only the highest quality products

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Add value to every treatment: This is a different concept to value-added promotions, where you offer packages of treatment that complement each other and offer a value deal to your clients.

These are great for promotions, but other than that, you should always add value to your treatments. What does this mean?

Think about why your client would have a facial with you rather than someone else. How can you make your treatment more enjoyable and valuable to the client? How do you present the treatment that has that WOW factor? Think about the extra little touches you can do to make the experience exceed their expectations. Sometimes this means you need to reassess the environment, the atmosphere you create.

Sometimes it's the way you interact with your client, while other times it's the post- treatment service you offer. Each business will have its own personality and expertise, what is yours?

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Clients love being treated as special. They love to be acknowledged, remembered, treated with courtesy, calmly and with elegance and style. This is why your business will be fine. This is why your long – term clients will always prefer quality over a bargain. If you were in their shoes, wouldn't you too?

In contrast, think about the other business that just sold 100 of the three-hour packages for $44.50. Imagine how frazzled they will be when they have to turn down their regular clients to make room for the bargain hunters (here is an opportunity for you to pick up some new clients).

Imagine how exhausted they will be working day in and day out for nothing. Imagine the stress, the resentment they will feel being used like this. This is not very appealing to any customer, I'm sure.

So take advantage of this opportunity to differentiate and elevate your business. Counteract their discount promotion with a value-added promotion of your own that highlights expertise, quality and sophistication. We all agree, there is no better advertising than wordof-mouth. Work on your existing clients to gain their trust so they can brag about you. People talk, after all. Clients that value quality over price are the clients you wish to attract and retain. These are the clients that will support your business in the long term.

Jana Elston is a skincare expert and retail coach. She previously owned two awardwinning beauty businesses, and managed Nationally Accredited Beauty Therapy Diploma Courses at Ella Bache. Currently, Jana is in an Account Management role at Sothys Group, and has been coaching business owners through guidance and business support, helping with operations, systems, management, retail, sales, marketing, and building winning teams.

With an extensive background in training and education, Jana wrote the first Government Accredited Diploma and Certificate IV Courses for Ella Bache. Jana also developed and delivered product knowledge training for the Soul & Pattinson Chemist Group, including OTC medicines and drugs, retail sales and customer service modules.

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In her spare time Jana is an accomplished writer and blogger, currently writing popular blogs and articles about beauty, skin – care, retail business, sales, and customer service. If you need assistance with copywriting, writing articles for your blog, Facebook, newsletters, or developing training manuals, you can contact Jana at Email: janaelston@yahoo.com

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While you are working….

Let us take care of your problems INDUSTRIAL RELATIONS ! Correct wage rates – Confirmed in

writing by a lawyer ! Staffing Disputes – Learn your rights and obligations ! HR documents – legal requirement guidelines and documentation ! Regulatory Compliance

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BUSINESS ! Business Coaching/Mentoring ! Get the best cost-saving services ! Industry specific insurance ! Lowest Merchant banking rates ! ! ! ! ! !

guaranteed Supplier and Product company advice Member's First shopping discount card Business and marketing strategies Merchandising Certified Educational Conferences Industry Code of Ethics

And what else…

Your interests are defended through lobbying and advocacy on your behalf with regulatory bodies and the government.

We don't just promise – we deliver Join as a member today!

Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) For further information ph: 07 5593 0360 or download an Application Form www.apanetwork.com

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higherlearning We caught up with Professor Ray Hayek, Executive Dean of the College, and Maureen Houssein-Mustafa OAM, the Director of the College, for further details.

APJ Q1: Maureen, what made you develop a Bachelor's Degree program for the Aesthetics industry?

Having owned and run a college since 1994 I was very familiar with how critical it was for the practical element of training to be sufficient and thorough enough to ensure that the graduates would be industry ready.

While I advocated and stressed the importance of this with current tertiary establishments, it would seem that my recommendations fell on deaf ears. From my experience excellence cannot be achieved by just having basic practical training and then filling in a log book of unsupervised work. I therefore identified a gap in the market, not just in the domestic market, but also internationally.

Should you be enrolling for the

In developing this degree we looked also to industry for guidance. We spent many consulting hours with industry experts and stakeholders to identify how we could best develop a degree that offered a superior fit to industry needs. This was a very extensive and lengthy exercise and cost millions of dollars, but it was worth it as our aim was to develop a new qualification with a high standard of excellence in education and to better meet with current and future industry needs. We have an amazing academic board and an exceptional Executive Dean at the helm.

I am thrilled to say that our first student batch commenced on the 23rd February. We have selected a special group of passionate students and we are delighted to guarantee them the help and support they will need throughout their journey over the next three years to ensure a successful outcome. They will not only have highly qualified lecturers, but also a team of skilled mentors who will “buddy” with them once a week for one hour to ensure they transition smoothly across to graduate attributes.

BACHELOR OF APPLIED HEALTH SCIENCE (CLINICAL AESTHETICS)?

You may think that a Degree program is beyond your grasp.

This article will shed some valuable food for thought on the potential new possibilities for those who are passionate about their profession and are looking forward to a rewarding long-term career in aesthetics.

Three years in development and undergoing extensive industry evaluation and rigorous regulatory compliance, the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) is finally under way.

The other exciting news is that the Australasian College of Health and Wellness has finally received FEE Help approval for students who wish to undertake this degree program, and its doors are now open for enrolments for the first intake of students.

This degree promises to establish a new benchmark in advanced aesthetic education and brings a fresh new approach to tertiary learning with specific protocols to support industry professionals who wish to transition to a university – level learning environment.

APJ Q2: Professor Hayek, you have developed other degree programs, how does the Bachelor of Applied Health Science compare with other degrees in terms of content and scope?

This degree is on par, and in some instances even better than other degrees from other institutions. Some self-accrediting institutions are in an enviable position to develop programs that they can self- accredit internally through their own institutions.

While we didn't have that privilege, we gain accreditation through the Tertiary Education Quality and Standards Agency (TEQSA), which is Australia's independent national regulator of university degree programs – in other words the higher education sector. This was a lengthy and rigorous process, and once a program meets with the

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required standards they usually gain a three-year accreditation. I am please to say that we were approved for seven years, largely due to the strength of our academic board.

From my previous experience of being on many accreditation boards for other health Degrees, in my view, having the national regulator approve our degree program has put us in a position of strength, particularly when both our degrees currently on offer received full accreditation under TEQSA's legislative authority. This is a huge bonus plus a vote of confidence for our degree.

APJ Q3: Maureen, what is your vision and goals for the next 12 months?

My vision and goals are to see successful graduates who can help shape a new standard of excellence in the aesthetics industry. This industry has a lot to offer consumers, but rapid advances in new innovations and technologies are often further ahead of education and this can be dangerous. The science of anti-ageing is also starting to validate the need for looking “within” to achieve long-lasting aesthetic results. Our degree program covers wellness in a substantially comprehensive way to better equip the Clinical Aesthetic therapist with the skills and knowledge not just for current needs, but so that they can also confidently embrace future advances that may impact the profession and its expanding direction. This is an important consideration when choosing a degree program.

APJ Q4: Maureen, who is a good candidate for this degree?

We have designed this degree program with appropriate entry levels for a cross-section of candidates. These include:

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Current practising therapists who wish to expand their knowledge and skills through higher qualifications so that they can confidently face the future.

Graduating beauty therapists who have a passion to continue into higher learning. With this degree option available high-achieving students who want to gain tertiary education will have the option to select Clinical Aesthetics as a career path.

Registered nurses who wish to pursue a new career path in clinical cosmetic and aesthetic practices Medical students who wish to change direction into Clinical Aesthetics Industry Educators and Trainers will now also have a pathway to further their own education and may achieve entrance through an RPL exam process.

APJ Q5: Professor Hayek, what mechanisms will you employ to facilitate distance learning?

We recognise that many who will wish to undertake this academic pathway may be also positioned in regional areas. We are embarking on some amazing programs that will allow students to interact with their lecturers and other students via electronic means through a virtual classroom. We are currently implementing some very sophisticated blended learning models to facilitate this. If you are considering taking up this degree but live in a regional location, or another State other than NSW, we would love to hear from you and welcome your expression of interest. However, we do stress that motor learning of practicum components will need to be delivered face-to-face.

APJ Q6: Maureen, what about student-funding assistance?

We have now been approved FEE Help for potential students for this degree program. This will be of great value to those who wish to pursue their degree, but are concerned that they can't afford it. There is now provision for them, so please contact us.

CONCLUSION This amazing new educational pathway will pave the way to a new benchmark in aesthetic education.

In the not too distant future we will no longer speak of hyper and hypopigmentation as broad indicators of dysfunction. We will be much more concerned with melanosome integrity and transferral rates of chemicals used to create melanin and not just tyrosine. We will look to understand the various epigenetic cofactors at work that provide different results in skin-colour harmonisation. No more guesswork.

This information will allow us to understand exactly which topicals and specific biochemicals will best target and successfully mitigate these conditions. Furthermore, in relation to working with melanin, we will have different and more targeted approach. We will reach and work with DOPA (dihydroxyphenylalinine) and not just tyrosine. Our vocabulary will expand to include new mechanisms to address skin conditions. We will be surrounded by an alphabet of precursor ingredients, such as AP-1 (Activator protein-1 [as a transcriptase factor]), NF-kB (nuclear factor kappa B), NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide), TIMPs (tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinase), TGF-β (transforming growth factor beta) as examples.

Already we are moving beyond amino acids to nucleic acids and nucleotides; beyond enzymes to their cofactors and coenzymes adding to our alphabet of understanding.

The new world which we will base our practice within has already been entered, with ingredients working at different aspects of stem cells for rejuvenation and even deoxyribonucleic acid, the DNA of cells. By better understanding telomeres and telomerase activity we will look for ingredients that have independent scientific validations to extend them and thus the life and integrity of chromosomes. The nascent research in modulation of these is already heralding a new dimension of effective biologically based skincare, delivered in ways outside of current capabilities.

Cosmetic chemistry and skincare has come a long way – the effectiveness of skincare product use rests on the most appropriate ingredient in the best delivery mechanisms for the underlying causative factors that provide the external presentation.

The role of genetics is great, but what we need to be concerned with is the role of epigenetics and how we can contribute to negating many of the follow-on effects of what our clients do. In the very near future aesthetics will be required to also look at combating the subcutaneous inflammation that contributes to disorders through the disruption in the biological workings of the skin and body.

This is the aesthetics of the future and the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Aesthetic Therapies) aims to equip you to face the future by increasing your knowledge and understanding. This qualification will empower you to break free of current limitations, redefine your practices and help you achieve a whole new level of possibilities in treatment outcomes. You will be able to confidently not just follow, but lead in ushering in these advances. Are you ready to step up your knowledge to face the future?

To register or for further information contact info@tac.edu.au or call 1800 999 936

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Become An THE PUREBEAU STORY

EXPERT Cosmetic Tattooing has come a long way over the years. New, more sophisticated tools, new techniques and trends can allow a skilled and well-trained practitioner to become very much in demand. Ever-growing in popularity, Cosmetic Tattooing offers an amazing and very fulfilling career with tremendous scope, both for those who are artistic and those who are compassionate and nurturing.

Sara Naderi is a qualified beauty therapist and Cosmetic Tattooist who has international training and over 20 years’ experience in Cosmetic Tattooing. Training with Sara will allow you to benefit from her expert techniques, while you can also qualify to receive government-approved qualifications in SIBBSKS504A Design & Perform Cosmetic Tattooing.

Sara is a APAN Corporate Platinum (Cosmetic Tattoo) Member Member of the Australasian Cosmetic Tattoo Professionals

COURSES AVAILABLE: ! Initial Training in Cosmetic Tattooing to Governmentapproved qualifications ! Refresher courses to advance your skills and knowledge in Eyeline, Lipliner, Full lip, Eyebrow techniques Sara is also a specialist in Eyebrow Threading and offers highly skilled training in her unique method. Other courses also available.

State-of-the-art pigments and devices

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PUREBEAU Australia is the official distributor for the prestigious PUREBEAU Cosmetic Tattoo products in Australia and New Zealand. The distribution company was founded by Sara Naderi, one of Australia's leading Cosmetic Tattoo specialists, working as a master trainer, cosmetic tattoo artist and consultant for 20 years, with training and high esteem carried across several countries worldwide. Sara founded the distribution company due to her firm belief that PUREBEAU supply the best products for the Cosmetic Tattooing industry, and is proud to be able to offer these amazing products to cosmetic tattoo practitioners throughout Australia and New Zealand. Founded in 1995 in Berlin by chemist/technologist Dirk Hundermark, Purebeau technology is recognised as among the best in the world by cosmetic tattoo specialists in the USA, Great Britain, Germany, Russia, Italy, France, Austria and Australia.

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The Technology of Purebeau: The Purebeau equipment was developed for very fine work, precision and accuracy. These sophisticated hi-tech devices are made only with the highest-quality materials to guarantee hygiene, safety, reliability and excellence in performance. Purebeau offers different elegant systems that are also fun to work and ergonomically designed for ease of use and to ensure comfort, while enabling precision application.

Needles and Needle speed: Reliable technology should begin with the pigment needles used. Several other cosmetic tattoo systems use imported tattooing needles with slightly bent needle tips that can put too great a strain on the skin. The needles used by Purebeau were developed using the principle of acupuncture needles and are thus very fine and smooth. Skin irritation is reduced to a minimum and the pigment colour can be transferred into the skin very precisely and accurately. Purebeau needles are laserwelded, a process that ensures great precision and, compared to soldered needles, does not leave any residues on the needles. Purebeau has developed an extensive range of needle types that are perfectly designed for different tasks and requirements. In support of best practice hygiene practices each needle is disposable, while the design will not allow fluid to back-flow.

Working with specific set needle speeds is another basic requirement to achieve perfect results. Purebeau equipment makes it possible to easily adjust needle speeds to the area to be treated. After many years of research, Purebeau has determined the ideal speeds for the various work processes.

This perfectly adapted detail considerably improves precision and prevents excessive irritation.

Colour Concept: The pigment colours used and their correct application (intensity, mixing ratio, subsequent pigment changes in the skin, etc.) pose one of the biggest challenges of cosmetic tattooing. This is why PUREBEAU has developed a comprehensive and particularly safe colour management system that includes not only a totally reliable colour system to determine the right colour mixing ratios and applications, but also developed their own highquality colours, including various supplementary products.

PUREBEAU NEW GENERATION COSMETIC TATTOO PIGMENTS AND EQUIPMENT

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Sara is also the Exclusive Distributor of the German-made world-leading Cosmetic Tattooing pigments and equipment PUREBEAU. Sophisticated and outstanding new high-tech equipment that meets with European and Australian standards and offers state-of-the-art solutions to allow for safe, effective and precise application of cosmetic tattooing and medical pigmentation.

For further information on training or to enquire about our amazing world-leading devices and pigments contact PUREBEAU Australia E: info@purebeau.com.au P: 1300 667 719 | M: 0405 463 636 W: www.purebeau.com.au | W: www.schb.com.au APJ 66

The PUREBEAU COLOUR METHOD is absolutely safe and definitely leads to perfect results. This is achieved not only by the pure and very fine colour pigments (Dermatest), but also the sophisticated way of dealing with colours and so-called correctors. Potentially negative influences are spotted beforehand through a well-founded colour analysis of the skin, and action to counter these is taken accordingly. The colour spectrum is co-ordinated for all skin types and allows natural correction and perfection. PUREBEAU offers superior products as well as state-of-the-art systems and application methods to achieve unbeatable cosmetic beauty. Exceptional cosmetic tattoo results can be achieved not only by skilful training, but also the quality machines and pigments to deliver an excellent end-procedure outcome.

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For reliable state-of-the-art cosmetic tattoo devices, pigment and training phone: PUREBEAU AUSTRALIA 1300 667 719 E: info@purebeau.com.au www.purebeau.com.au

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Setting a new benchmark in AESTHETICS

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Now these standards can DEFINE YOU

Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) THIS DEGREE BOASTS A RIGOROUS ACADEMIC PROGRAM BUILT AROUND HEALTH SCIENCE SUPPORTED BY EXTENSIVE CLINICAL PRACTICE SKILLS. IT AIMS TO DELIVER THE LATEST IN SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE TO EQUIP GRADUATES FOR THE EXCITING AND RAPIDLY CHANGING AESTHETICS INDUSTRY. The Australasian College of Health and Wellness is now also offering PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT COURSES for those who aspire for higher learning in skin science. If you would like to grow your knowledge on skin to a higher academic level why not consider undertaking a comprehensive unit in:

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Anatomy and Physiology of the Skin Pathophysiology of the Skin Skin Differential Diagnosis Clinical aesthetics and Dermal Therapy scope of practice Aesthetics Management of Common skin Disorders

These units offered as a seminar series will give graduates an opportunity to gain the benefit of knowledge on the skin at a higher academic level as well as experiencing a learning environment that will open the door to a potential university degree. Should you wish to pursue a degree qualification with the Australasian College of Health and Wellness these units will provide the benefit credit points towards your degree.To register or for further information on these units email: info@tac.edu.au or call 1800 999 963

ENROL NOW! For further information about the Degree please contact Head of Faculty Associate Professor Sinan Ali on 02 8587 8888. Sinan.ali@tac.edu.au www.tac.edu.au/highereducation

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results will continue in the weeks following a series of treatments as collagen remodelling and fibroblast stimulation continues.

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Venus Viva™ leads the market with the industry's largest variable spot size, selective dermal heating, remarkable depth penetration of up to 500 microns and comfortable patient downtimes. And with a much smaller footprint per pin (150x20 microns), this micro-wound method of skin resurfacing allows patients to get on with their usual activities much sooner.

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As a sleek, results-driven, ultra-modern and completely portable device, Venus Viva™ really is the taste of things to come in aesthetic technology advancements. But the best part is, you can experience it right now.

VIVA FOREVER:

Check out real-life Venus Viva 'Before & After' comparison photos at The Global Beauty Group's website by scanning the QR code below and see for yourself how much Venus Viva™ can achieve in just 1-3 treatment sessions.

The Future of Aesthetics is Here A common questions we are asked is “Is it possible to own an aesthetics device that tackles all of the most requested facial rejuvenation services while taking up less space in your treatment room than a desktop computer?” The answer is yes – and it's called Venus Viva™.

Dubbed “the new gold standard in medical aesthetics”, Venus Viva™ hails from one of the most progressive innovators in the mediaesthetics industry, Venus Concept, who have already made a global impact with the awardwinning Venus Swan™ and the not-so-secret celebrity favourite, Venus Freeze™.

Venus Viva™ is a dedicated, NanoFractional R a d i o F r e q u e n c y, n o n - s u rg i c a l s k i n rejuvenation device designed to deliver clinicalstandard anti-ageing treatments quickly and painlessly to the face, neck and décolleté.

Treatments last less than 30 minutes and the system utilises a revolutionary new pin design that creates micro dermal wounds, resulting in enhanced patient comfort and minimal posttreatment downtime.

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WHAT CAN YOU EXPECT? Treatment clinicians are equipped with state-ofthe-art ergonomic handpieces and preprogrammed as well as customisable desktop treatment settings.

Depending on the severity of the client's skin condition, typically a session requires just one pass to produce outstanding results in evening out skin irregularities, reducing pore size, improving the appearance of acne scarring, smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles and tightening up areas of lax and sagging skin.

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After a course of treatments, clients can expect improved skin texture and a more radiant, clearer complexion. Greater, visible, long-term

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To discover how Venus Viva can help grow your business, call The Global Beauty Group on 1300 006 607 or visit www.TheGlobalBeautyGroup.com.au.

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Raising the bar in AESTHETIC THERAPIES

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If you ever feel that the going is getting tougher when it comes to your business – you are right. However, the key to your breakthrough from your challenges is to connect, associate and follow those who are coming through victoriously. This is why in every issue of APJ we profile two members – their businesses or the individual that are achieving progress and are willing to share with others within the industry the attitudes, disciplines and mindset that have propelled them to become stronger and to overcome the odds. These individuals are part of your community of practice, and we trust their story will offer you inspiration and encouragement that you too can achieve your dream, that the opportunity to success is still an option and attainable when you have the right mindset and attitude to your profession and your business. This is Sevine Forster's story. We trust it will inspire you.

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The passion to have my own business was inspired in me while living in London in 2002. I had enrolled at the London School of Beauty and Makeup at Oxford Circus, and was fortunate enough to land a fulltime beauty position in Mayfair while completing my studies. I wore many hats in this role – managing the administration of the salon, performing beauty services backto-back each day, and working relatively un-supervised. The salon wasn't well established when I started, however, I soon developed a full appointment book, with a consistent repeat client base. I finally felt that I wasn't working for money, and couldn't believe I was given a salary each week to do something I enjoyed. I was lucky enough to work parallel to Harley Street (where the celebs go to have all their procedures), and a lovely lady from a clinical peel company would invite me to her clinic or visit me at work to teach me indepth knowledge on skin, clinic peels and microdermabrasion, where my fascination with the science of beauty began.

I finally moved back to Australia after five years in the UK. I was disappointed by the lack of paramedical (intense) treatments available here in Australia, so consequently my passion for beauty drove me to strive for a deeper scientific understanding.

This led me to complete a Biomedical Science Degree at the University of the Sunshine Coast (QLD) in 2010 with a view to embarking on a career in allied health, and while I studied I also took on the Manager role at Madisons Beauty in Toombul. Fate intervened, however, and six months later I was presented with the opportunity to buy the salon. It was seen as a bit of sinking ship, but I just knew that I had the ability to turn it around.

So I leveraged everything I had, which was not much, and thanks to a forward-thinking bank was able to buy the business. I simply had to make it work!

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APJ Q1: Sevine, tell us a little about how it came about that you established your own business?

Not surprisingly, I introduced paramedical treatments, and over the coming months a solid client base of loyal customers started to grow, and continued to flourish over the next few years. Given the level of service we wanted to provide, I decided the shopping centre location was no longer a fit for our business model, and started the search for a new location, not too far from our existing Toombul clientele. We

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were lucky to find our new location on Racecourse Road in nearby Ascot, and I knew straight away it was the perfect fit for our brand and our treatment offering. I didn't hesitate to make the move.

APJ Q2: Despite the fact that many businesses are struggling you are expanding. To what do you attribute your success?

I think you have to love what you do to have a successful business, and never compromise on the quality of your offering. My qualifications provide me with the increased knowledge and understanding necessary to ensure that we embrace the most up-to-date technologies, the most effective product lines, and are able to train and develop the most sophisticated and knowledgeable therapists in the market.

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Beauty treatments go far deeper than the surface of the skin, and technological advances are occurring daily.

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With products like paramedical peels and Intense Pulse Light (IPL), it is critical that therapists understand the science behind these technologies and skincare in order to be able to provide customised treatment programs and homecare prescriptions that deliver results in the safest and most effective ways possible.

Today's busy clients are selective and spend their time and money wisely. They want more than just an effective and affordable beauty treatment. They expect an immersive experience where they can relax and escape their busy lives. The Madison's experience is based specifically with these customers in mind.

APJ Q 3: Define your culture – what is your business known for and what are your core values and philosophy in simple terms?

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APJ Q4: What new services will you be offering with your expansion?

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We are pleased also have added Babor – a luxury skincare range offering at our new Ascot salon.

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Another benefit of our new location is that our clients are able to dash to their cars as opposed to having to navigate their way through shopping centre crowds following their treatments.

APJ Q5: What brands do you use and why?

Given my biomedical background, products backed by science are a priority for me. Babor has established itself as a true pioneer in the field of skincare, through the Babor Research and Innovation Centre, has driven their leading position. They are, in my mind, the perfect combination of science and luxury; with many of their ingredients being subject to an exhaustive quality-control process.

We also stock Ultraceuticals – one of Australia's pre-eminent cosmeceutical brands. Again, having been created by Cosmetic

I would have to say that the business is known for having an absolute commitment to the natural beauty of the skin. Our clients know that they will always have access to the most up-to-date technology, the most superior product lines, and our consistently high level of service.

I am proud of the reputation we have built.

Physician Dr Geoffrey Heber, with Ultraceuticals, you are receiving doctor's grade ingredients in skincare without the price tag. And most importantly, we love that Ultraceuticals were created in Australia, therefore place a central focus for how our skin is exposed to our harsh Australian sun.

In its simplest terms our core values are based around three basic principles:

APJ Q 6: What is the secret to a successful team?

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Our recent move to bigger and better facilities at Racecourse Road in Ascot has allowed us to capitalise on our immersive experience, now including a sauna and pedicure station built into the ground.

I have always fostered a supportive culture based on learning and development. I seek out therapists with a keenness for learning, and then develop them into the best therapists they can be; through training, education and by providing a supportive and fun work environment.

1. An absolute commitment to preserving the natural beauty of the skin 2. Having the most sophisticated and knowledgeable therapists in the market 3. Providing the highest level of service possible

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The real secret to a successful team is a happy team; where each team member feels both individually valued and unified by common goals.

Providing a supportive environment is crucial to success; where each team member feels valued with opportunities for development, and high performance and loyalty are rewarded.

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APJ Q7: What have you put in place to ensure that you deliver service and outcomes to meet each and every time with your clients' expectations?

The answer to this question really comes back again to the core values that underpin everything that we do, and are an expressed part of our training and development program for all staff: 1. An absolute commitment to preserving the natural beauty of the skin 2. Having the most sophisticated and knowledgeable therapists in the market 3. Providing the highest level of service possible Ensuring that we embrace the most upto-date technologies, the most effective product lines, and are able to train and develop the most sophisticated and knowledgeable therapists in the market are the critical elements to delivering or over-delivering for each and every customer at Madisons.

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APJ Q8: Why did you join APAN and how can what they provide support and assist you as a business?

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APAN offers industry insight for up-to-date technologies, therapist training/education, and business support. I enjoy reading other salon owners editorials and am inspired by their journeys. As a business owner APAN offers me professional and current advice through their membership ranging from human resource information to new industry laws. I do not feel alone with the support of APAN; I am directly informed of the modern changes within the aesthetics industry.

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You can contact Sevine Forster at Madisons Beauty IPL & Dermal Therapies (07) 3256 9959 www.madisonsbeauty.com.au www.facebook.com/Madisons.Beauty

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Constantly growin g and expanding, this year Beauty Therapy Tr a i n i n g A u s t r a l i a (BTTA), a registered training organisation on the Gold Coast, is experiencing exponential gro w th.

Adding a new campus l o c a t i o n t o accommodate the constant demand for qualifications in advanced procedures, the college is moving from strength-tostrength.

“I am very excited to see businesses looking at investing in government approvedqualifications in IPL and Laser as well as other modalities,” Angie Smith, principal of BTTA, stated.

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This is not a loan as in VET FEE Help as the Government will outright pay this fee to the training establishment for approved applications.

BTTA is delighted to be offering two qualifications through this Government-funded program and is inviting businesses and their staff to consider taking advantage of this program. The two qualifications that they will be offering are:

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Angie went on to say that this move is so important for our industry, especially as we are seeing a continued growing number of medical practitioners delivering very similar services to beauty therapists and aestheticians. Gaining full qualifications will not only safeguard their future in having the recognition to continue to practice when new regulations are introduced into the industry, it will also lift the standard of the industry.

AN INDUSTRY GROWING IN REPUTATION “We are seeing a new breed of industry professionals who have a strong desire to be respected and viewed as experts. They are not intimidated at the thought of going back to study, and as an industry we are championing them,” Angie said.

“I am seeing a real hunger for knowledge,” Angie went on to say, “and this is so encouraging. Even therapists who have being delivering IPL and Laser services for several years are identifying the value of gaining formal qualifications and this is admirable.”

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SIB50210 Diploma of Salon Management SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in Intense Pulsed Light and Laser Hair Reduction 10038NAT Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser & Light Therapies

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The demands in sustaining and growing a business in today's fiercely competitive environment are very challenging. With the economy still not stable, consumers are very cautious as to where and how they spend their money. Establishing a highly successful and profitable business now requires higher skills and knowledge. The Diploma of Salon Management has been added to BTTA's curriculum this year to help businesses meet these needs. This is a nationally recognised qualification designed to equip salon managers and business owners with the essential tool-kit to build a business, create and establish a client-service culture, lead and develop a team, implement marketing activities and ensure all workplace health and safety requirements are met. It is designed to give graduates the knowledge and confidence to successfully lead their team to achieve their business goals. Other qualifications available, see next page.

WRBSS 505B DESIGN AND PERFORM COSMETIC TATTOOING

If you are a qualified beauty therapist or an existing Cosmetic Tattooist and wish to gain a government-approved qualification, BTTA will also be offering this qualification this year. While training is available from highly skilled individuals within the industry, it is also important that you understand that in Australia, unless you have this qualification, you are not formally recognised as qualified as a Cosmetic Tattooists. It pays to be qualified.

THE LAUNCH OF NEW QUALIFICATIONS IN DERMAL THERAPIES Currently there are new Government-approved qualifications being finalised and will be launched at the end of the year.

Once these have been released BTTA will be including these also on their scope. If you would like to be notified once these have been finalised please contact BTTA to be included on their mailing list.

Meanwhile, if you are currently wishing to up-skill and undertake either the SIB50210 Diploma of Salon Management or SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in Intense Pulsed Light and Laser Hair Reduction through the 2015 Government-fund e d program fo r these qualifications please contact BTTA .

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NEW GOVERNMENT- FUNDING INITIATIVE This year the Government has released another government-funded initiative through the Department of Industry and Business in support of businesses that wish to up-skill and establish a stronger commercial position. The terms and conditions are different to last year's funding through the National Workforce Development Fund. In fact, the terms are even better than previously. This year establishments with four or less employees can receive up to 75% Government-funded support to complete a qualification.

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DIPLOMA OF SALON MANAGEMENT (SIB50210)

BEAUTY THERAPY TRAINING AUSTRALIA (BTTA) Up-skilling Training Experts

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BEAUTY THERAPY TRAINING AUSTRALIA on 07 55 590 889 or email Contact@beautytherapytraining.com.au

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

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serve as messengers and affect the behavior of other cells. Cytokines, in particular, often regulate inflammatory responses. Growth factors stimulate cellular proliferation.

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According to Sarah Bacus, PhD, a well-known scientist in the fields of cell biology and oncology, and co-founder and chief scientific officer at CeLuvia, a growth factor-based skincare line, incorporating live cells into topical skincare products is not realistic. “Stem cells and cells in general are notoriously difficult to keep alive in a laboratory, let alone in a skincare formulation. There is also no practical reason to include stem cells in a cream or apply them topically. There would be no benefit from this approach.”

STEM CELLS AND SKINCARE The science behind the growth factors and human stem-cell-conditioned medium that form the basis for many new cosmeceuticals. Google the words “human stem cells skin- care” and you will see more than three million search results. But when it comes to topical skincare products, the discussion of stem cells is really about growth factors, cytokines and chemokines. Some are grown in the laboratory and others are found in stem-cell-conditioned medium.

Cytokines and chemokines are signalling proteins, released by cells that

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Instead, formulators are working with byproducts of cultured cells – the above-mentioned cytokines, chemokines and growth factors – to spur skin cells into action, says Burt Ensley, PhD, CEO and chairman of Protein Genomics, a wound-healing and tissue-regeneration company, and DermaLastyl, an anti-ageing skincare company.

According to Dr Ensley, skincare topicals are currently using the byproducts of culturing cells from various sources into a conditioned medium. Depending on the type of cells used and the processing methods, the output can be growth factors, matrix proteins and cytokines. In his opinion human stem cell byproducts (from skin or adipose tissue) appear to be the best candidates for use in skincare products due to their ability to produce (in the right conditions) the same types of cellular components that your body naturally uses to maintain a youthful appearance. The type of stem cells used to create these byproducts, and how they are processed and formulated, are the main points of differentiation in the over-the-counter products currently available.

Ronald Moy, MD, a Beverly Hills dermatologist and founder of the DNA EGF Renewal Collection, uses barley-bioengineered humanlike epidermal growth factor (EGF) along with a trio of DNA repair enzymes. “The only products that make sense are those using human bioengineered growth factors that decrease with ageing and have been studied in wound healing to be effective,” he says. “The soup of growth factors taken from neonatal foreskin or skin stem cells does not make scientific sense, since they are not active by the time they are processed into a cream.”

Growth factors rarely stand alone in skincare formulations. Instead, products feature a blend of growth factors, cytokines, antioxidants and other antiageing ingredients. “Cellular rejuvenation is a complex process in which many signals working symbiotically are required.

No one single ingredient/molecule is responsible for this process,” says Ensley, who also works with the U Autologous line, sold by Personal Cell Sciences, which uses stem cells extracted from the patient's own adipose tissue to create individualised skin preparations consisting of Autokine (autologous stem-cell-conditioned medium) with added peptides and antioxidants. “There are, however, notable cytokines involved in the process, including transforming growth factor beta-1, epidermal growth factor and basic fibroblast growth factor. Stem-cell-conditioned mediums are able to capture a varied set of these cytokines and deliver the complete set of instructions necessary for rejuvenation.”

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Ref: Dermatology Today

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MASKS TAKING CENTRE-STAGE IN PRODUCT INNOVATIONS

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With the continued advancement of skincare formulations masks are now become the new leader in product innovations, and specifically in support of enhancing product actives entering the deeper layers of the skin. Rivalling technologies such as ultrasound, derma-rolling, electroporation and galvanic currents for product penetration masks are now becoming specialised, with a focus to assist in trans-epidermal delivery of active ingredients.

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An example is Environ's latest innovation – Intensive Revival Masque is the latest product to be launched in Australia. It consists of a unique combination of revolutionary ingredients: Asiatic, Mandelic and Lactic Acid that make the skin appear more luminous, smoother and revitalised. Asiatic Acid stimulates growth factors that are important in the regenerative processes of the skin. Mandelic and Lactic Acids promote natural hydrating factors in the skin and lighten uneven skin tone.

Containing a cocktail of anti-ageing ingredients, this product helps the skin gain a more youthful, revitalised appearance. Its unique formulation allows it to be used alone or over an active night cream to further accelerate skin improvement. The mask's texture is very fine and actually feels more like a moisturiser, however, when applied it creates a slight tightening and lifting effect, which continues to tone the skin throughout the night.

Skincerity, a multi-level company, has also launched a new lifting mask innovation called Skincerity – Nightly Breathable Barrier Mask.

When applied at night over a night cream it releases a chilling sensation that delivers a tightening, occlusive barrier that locks moisture in, while stimulating skin tone and elasticity.

Another company, Glabra, has produced their latest innovation known as the golden collagen face masks. Made from bio-cellulose to silk, collagen gel and cotton lace, these mask membranes are formulated to facilitate trans-epidermal penetration of active ingredients to the deeper layers of the skin where they can achieve an immediate result, rapidly enhancing and refreshing the appearance of the skin.

More and more companies are utilising these silk and fruit fibre masks, and the new formulations aim to compete with injectable technologies for a more youthful-looking skin.

According to one manufacturer, JieBao, this technology has allowed their brand to go beyond what the average face mask offers by weaving anti-bacterial, detoxifying and hydrating properties into the fabric that “lock” their benefits into the skin.

THE GUARANTEED NEXT BOOM – TECHNOLOGY AND WELLNESS

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According to several global reports from companies that are researching buyer behaviour, the demand for wellness and stress reduction is gaining prominence in the mind of the modern consumer.

The forecast is that in current and future years beauty will be viewed as an integral part of wellbeing and services that combine the benefits of both will be given priority. It's all part of the move towards multifunctionality experts say, when time-poor consumers want not just anti-ageing results, but also an amazing experience and wellness benefits that can complete the whole package of personal investment into one's appearance and wellbeing. This trend was first noted in 2000 when the evolution of the salon and spa services were taking results one step further, and it has been growing ever since in Europe the US and in China. The new growth area will be innovative treatments based on reducing stress, increasing energy to deliver younger-looking skin and body. These treatments will be delivered by sophisticated protocols that combine various modalities. They will now target consumer needs in a more specialised way to achieve skin improvement, increased energy and wellness through modalities that are supercharged by equipment technology, which is the third pillar of exponential growth.

We are seeing a gradual merging of cosmetic medicine with aesthetics and clinical aesthetic practices, where there is a blending in appearance enhancing modalities, however, nutrition, weight-loss, body wellness are rapidly becoming equally important. Massage will be viewed as an integral part of addressing stress reduction, not just for the experience, but also so that the body can better respond to skin treatments.

Research is now confirming that consumers in mature markets are happy to step up on their expectations of the total package of experience, wellness and results. Wellness and technological beauty are already identified as the new trends as a growing number of consumers worldwide are seeking increasingly better results from their products and treatment outcomes. Those considered previously as conservative beauty buyers are also joining the ranks of contemporary buyers embracing this trend as innovative developments in technology and skincare formulations are being launched. It is estimated that in the next 3-4 years technology and wellness will redefine and transform traditional beauty concepts.

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stronger than in the lower level. Also, there's a lag effect of PM2.5 on urticarial outpatient number that can last up to 20 days. For us as researchers, this means we could set 200μg/m3 as the reference level in future research to study the impact of PM2.5 in high-level concentrations and the relationship between PM2.5 and other skin diseases.

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“Further study is needed, but for dermatologists and their patients, it's becoming more and more important to acknowledge the influence of air pollution on skin diseases and take this influence into consideration while providing treatment suggestions, such as thorough and gentle cleansing and skin-barrier repair.”

STUDIES CONFIRM WHICH POLLUTANTS ADVERSELY AFFECT THE SKIN The effects of air pollution on the skin trumps the benefits that can be gained through lifestyle choices such as proper diet and regular exercise.

In a collaborative project, Olay researchers joined with Wei Liu, M.D., head of the dermatology department at the General Hospital of the Air Force, Beijing, to study the relationship between that city's air qualit – among the worst in the world – and the incidence of dermatological skin conditions.

In his part of the overall study, Dr. Liu's team looked at the relationship between air quality and incidence of dermatological skin conditions among patients in Beijing, using data collected from 2013 to 2014.

Nearly 15,000 patients were included in the analysis.

“Our initial study showed a positive correlation between PM2.5 values [particulate matter up to 2.5 micrometres] and the numbers of urticaria outpatients in Beijing,” Dr. Liu told Dermatology Times.

“When the PM2.5 level is above 200μg/m3, the correlation starts to be

On the Olay side of the project, a research team led by Olay Principal Scientist Frauke Neuser, Ph.D. conducted a year-long clinical study involving more than 200 women in Beijing's least and most polluted districts. The research team measured multiple aspects of skin health and appearance as well as noting participants' lifestyles and skincare routines. They found that women who lived in highly polluted areas had significantly worse skin hydration and more compromised skin-barrier function than those living in the lesspolluted suburbs. This held true even among women from the highpollution districts who made better lifestyle choices than those in the less-polluted suburbs.

“While common sense suggests that air pollution would have a negative impact on skin health and appearance, very little published research is currently available,” Dr. Neuser told Dermatology Times.

“Our finding that something as fundamental to skin's health as hydration and barrier function can be compromised by continued exposure to air pollution is therefore highly significant. Olay is committed to further research in this area, as only a better understanding of the exact biological mechanisms at work will allow us to develop better and more targeted skincare solutions.”

The study results were presented at the recently held 10th Annual Conference of the Chinese Dermatologists Association.

Http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com

POMEGRANATE GAINS MOMENTUM AS A NOVEL SKINCARE INGREDIENT As natural cosmetics are gaining momentum one ingredient that is gaining demand in skincare formulations is pomegranate.

Pomegranate fruit extract from the tree Punica granatum, containing several polyphenols and anthocyanidins (pigment that also gives fruit its rich red colour), has been reported as having equal if not higher levels of antioxidants than green tea and red wine. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Recent studies have confirmed that extracts from pomegranate show promise that they can protect the skin from the hazards of UV exposure, as well as supporting it as a novel dietary approach to prevent skin wrinkles. Korean scientists at Hallym University stated that the ellagic acid from the fruit may prevent the degradation of collagen in human skin cells, which would maintain skin structure and slow the developments of wrinkles. Studies on mice have shown that polypehnol prevented the thickening of the skin when exposed to UV radiation. Researchers also used human keratinocytes and human fibroblasts that produce the extracellular matrix and collagen in the skin, exposing them to ellagic acid and UV-B radiation. Results

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showed that the polyphenol attenuated the UV-B induced toxicity of these cells and also prevented collagen degradation, thus protecting the skin against premature ageing and wrinkles.

As pomegranate is also a popular fruit and drink the validation of using pomegranate as a topical as well as ingested further supports the new trend of “beauty from within”, which globally is gaining momentum.

Research Ref: http://escholarship.org/uc/item/7mn5j20t

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FROM COSMIC TO COSMETICS: NASA It is a well-known fact that many medical studies are also tested in outerspace where the impact of gravity is not detrimental. Now a new clinical study conducted by Technologies Application International Corporation (NUUU) have concluded a clinical study to test the efficacy of anti-ageing cosmetics and hair-care products developed on earth and tested in space by NASA. On July 25, Melanie Saunders, Johnson Space Center's Associate Director, welcomed Technology Applications International Corporation (TAIC) CEO Charles Scimeca to a ceremony to sign an exclusive patent licence marking a continuing relationship between NASA and the cosmetic and personal care product company. This exclusive licence agreement between NASA and TAIC is one of the latest examples of the many emerging commercial companies using NASA's technology transfer process to enhance the quality of life in the public interest. The key manufacturing element to TAIC's newest product, “Rejuvel”, is the company's use of the patented NASA Rotating Wall Vessel (RWV) bioreactor with a pulsed electromagnetic force field to enable production of cosmetic supernatant (cell culture fluid) ingredients such as polypeptides and growth factors from human epidermal fibroblasts.

The original bioreactor, designed by NASA engineers and researchers at Johnson Space Center was used to investigate the effects of long-term microgravity on human tissues in simulated reduced-gravity conditions.

Later experiments using the bioreactor conducted by Johnson scientist and inventor Dr. Thomas Goodwin proved that the NASA bio-reactor could successfully cultivate many different animal cells, including human cells using simulated microgravity, resulting in three-dimensional tissues that more closely approximate those in the body. Goodwin experimented with the addition of a form of pulsed electromagnetic field to the exterior of the bioreactor, producing remarkable results that multiply the growth of tissue cells and the production of unique biomolecules. While the bioreactor may one day culture white blood cells (of the immune system) for injured

ENVIRONMENTAL CHEMICALS AND EARLY ONSET OF MENOPAUSE A study conducted by the Washington University School of Medicine looked at how environmental chemicals, plastics and other household items are interfering with hormone levels in women, leading them to experience menopause 2-4 years earlier.

It is a well-known fact that there is evidence that phthalates contribute to hormone disruptions, however, while cosmetics are mentioned as containing phthalates in the study with some reports suggesting that cosmetics are dangerous, the two phthalates that were identified as associated with early menopause in the research are not used as ingredients in cosmetic products. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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BIOREACTOR TECHNOLOGY FINDS NEW PURPOSE DEVELOPING BEAUTY PRODUCTS

The cross-sectional survey used National Health and Nutrition Examination Survey data from 1999 to 2008 on 31,575 females.

Eligible participants included: menopausal women over 30 years of age who were not currently pregnant, breastfeeding, using hormonal contraception; had no history of bilateral oophorectomy or hysterectomy. Serum lipid and urine creatinine-adjusted measured endocrine disruptive chemicals were analysed. Many of the chemicals used in the study have been banned in the US and Australia because of their negative effects. The two phthalates examined in this study were breakdown produces of diethylhexy phthalates (MEHHP and MEOHP), which are banned in cosmetic use in the EU and no longer

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astronauts or single-celled organisms like algae as food or oxygen producers for a Mars colony, the technology's cellgrowth capability offers significant opportunities for terrestrial medical research and commercial applications today. Goodwin, who holds 21 U.S. patents as a NASA inventor, was present at the ceremony and stated that “For commercial applications the product was at about Technology Readiness Level 4 or 5, and we're now turning it over to industry to further develop and come up with a finished product. That is the good thing about the NASA technology transfer program; the NASA team can bring the product to a certain point, and then let industry advance it further and find tangible benefits for all.

“I was involved in a previous enterprise that utilised NASA technology, so I understood the benefits of working with their experts. From a business perspective, the use of the bioreactor helped enhance Rejuvel's anti-aging properties,” expressed Scimeca.

With Rejuvel production centres in Houston, Dallas, Miami and at the University of Pennsylvania, the Rejuvel product line is poised to expand rapidly. “The cosmetics business is an international one, so to be successful we needed to be in a worldwide marketplace. Our product is currently used across central Europe and Asia,” said TAIC's Chief Scientist, Dr. Jacob Applebaum.

For information about partnering with NASA, visit http://technology.jsc.nasa.gov

used in manufacturing of cosmetic and personal care or nail products.

However, the study did not specifically examine cosmetics, but did say that these toxins are present and harmful in the environment, although most not present in cosmetics.

FINDINGS This analysis examined 111 endocrine disruptive chemicals and focused on known reproductive toxicants or chemicals with half-lives over one year. Women with high levels of β-hexachlorocyclohexane, mirex, p,p'-DDE, 1,2,3,4,6,7,8-heptachlorodibenzofuran, mono-(2ethyl-5-hydroxyhexyl) and mono-(2-ethyl-5-oxohexyl) phthalate, polychlorinated biphenyl congeners -70, -99, -105, -118, -138, -153, 156, -170, and -183 had mean ages of menopause 1.9 to 3.8 years earlier than women with lower levels of these chemicals. Endocrine disruptive chemical exposed women were up to six times more likely to be menopausal than non-exposed women. ㄰

CONCLUSIONS The study identified 15 endocrine disruptive chemicals that warrant closer evaluation because of their persistence and potential detrimental effects on ovarian function. Earlier menopause can alter the quantity and quality of a woman's life and has profound implications for fertility, human reproduction, and our global society.

As a result of this study researchers urged people who microwave food to use paper or glass containers instead of plastics and also examine their food packaging.

Ref: PubMed: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25629726

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The amazing properties of

GINSENG

By Tina Viney

In recent years Western culture has become increasingly interested in aspects of oriental culture and medicine. Along with the adoption of such Eastern medical practices as acupuncture and herbal medicine, the benefits of plants and roots are being studied scientifically to determine their medicinal properties for the purpose of nutritional supplements, as well as skincare. One such ingredient is the amazing Ginseng root.

TYPES OF GINSENG There are several species of Ginseng and in fact there are 11 different species with slightly different properties. The most common ginseng species are those found in Korea, North-east China, Bhutan and eastern Siberia.

THERAPEUTIC PROPERTIES Ginseng was originally named “man root” because its roots resemble little people, with forks that look like arms and legs. Both the root and the leaves of this plant have benefits to humans, from anti-inflammatory to antioxidant and energy-supporting properties.

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All types of ginseng are slow-growing perennial plants. Ginseng likes to grow in temperate forests, and has been used in Chinese traditional medicine for centuries. Considered an “adaptogenic” herb, which means it helps the body to adapt to the environment, deal with stress, and resist environmental damage, and this is one of the most powerful properties for which it benefits modern man, both when taken as a supplement or used as an ingredient in skincare.

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The roots of ginseng are said to be slightly sweet and licorice flavoured. They can be eaten dried, steeped to make tea or ground

into a powder for medicinal use. The Chinese have used the herb mostly as an energy tonic, as ginseng helps stimulate energy. It was also said to reduce stress and anxiety, stimulate the immune system and improve endurance.

According to ancient Chinese doctrines, a plant part that resembles a human body part will have a therapeutic value in that location. As the ginseng root resembles the entire human form indicates its use as a restorative that will bring the body into harmony. This harmony, expressed as the Chinese philosophy of yin and yang, is held to be essential to a healthy body and a peaceful spirit.

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WESTERN EVALUATION

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Western medicine evaluates the effectiveness of ginseng in a different but complementary way. The active ingredients in ginseng are complex carbohydrates called saponins or ginsenosides.

Individual ginsenosides appear to have separate effects. Whereas one particular ginsenoside stimulates the central nervous system, another may sedate the central nervous system. Other ginsenosides

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APAN AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES

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BIGGER AND BETTER IN 2015 The Business of Skin Management Taking it from Theory into Practice

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Brisbane Sunday 31st May Sydney Sunday 21st June Melbourne Sunday 18th October

Your Date with DESTINY Our world is rapidly changing. Clinical knowledge is doubling every 18 months1. Are you still working on yesterday's business ideas or today's realities?

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Latest Anti-ageing techniques New concepts and principles Leadership Strategies for Better Staff Performance Winning Business Growth Strategies

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Register today and secure your place. Visit www.apanetwork.com Ph: 07 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com

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The Professional approach to

SOCIAL MEDIA

By Gay Wardle

Who would have ever thought that our world would have embraced social media to the degree that it has. It is so amazing that we can talk and communicate to anyone who will listen, 24 hours a day. I have been working on my computer at 3am and suddenly a conversation will start with a colleague in Ireland, it is fantastic! You talk to people that you would never have thought to pick up the phone and call.

Let`s talk about the social-media prince – Facebook. I am on at least 10 forums on Facebook and they keep adding up, everyone wants to start a page. It is a wonderful way of getting your message and delivering news to people. I normally hop on Facebook early morning before my day starts and late evening when it has finished, occasionally during the day if I am working on the computer and have a little daydream I will jump on to see what is happening. I must admit I am so surprised to see so many people that have posted comments throughout the day and how often it seems to happen it seems that Facebook is consuming lives all over the world. I must admit that when I first joined Facebook I too spent way too much time reading and commenting on posts, even spent time following threads of posts.

The first forum that I became a member of was Beauty Therapists – sharing ideas and growing, which was started by a good friend of mine, Linda Fenech. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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The forum was formed so like-minded people could share ideas, which was brilliant and still is a brilliant concept. After all social media is the way world communicates now. It was amazing. Before long there were thousands of people on this forum and other forums were being formed. They all had the same ideas – to help one another.

Fantastic concept!

WHERE DO YOU DRAW THE LINE? What bothers me about most of the forums is that therapists are using them to gain advice on treatments and skin conditions. Photographs are being posted with rashes or some kind of lesion and other skin

disorders. Suddenly all the advice from people wanting to help is posted and we have a thread happening.

In the beginning I too gave advice and then I stopped. I soon realised it was wrong to do so. It was not professional to me to give someone advice if I had no background at all on the client/patient.

To give a correct diagnosis you need to have had a professional consultation. There are so many variables when diagnosing skin conditions that would include nutrition, previous treatments and products used, client habits and their lifestyle past and present. This is just naming some of the important information that needs to be gathered and dissected to enable a prescription of treatments and products to be written. While the therapists are giving advice in good faith they are leaving themselves wide open to having an insurance claim handed to them. If you give someone advice on a treatment or a product without a professional consultation and the person had an adverse reaction in whatever capacity that might be, big or small, you could be at fault.

LET US LOOK AT THIS FROM A LEGAL POINT OF VIEW: 1. Privacy Law regulations The new Privacy Act that was amended last year has a set of privacy principles that as a professional you need to be made aware of and abide by. These regulations include specific policy requirements that dictate how you can and cannot use your clients' private information.

Non-compliance to these principles can result in serious fines. When you take a photo of your client's skin and place it on Facebook that is considered a public domain. How would your client feel about that and have they given you permission to do so?

2. The credibility of the responses Do you know the people who are responding to your post and are their recommendations credible and accurate? Are they appropriately

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qualified to give you correct advice, and in choosing to go with their recommendations will this open you up to other pitfalls if they are wrong? How do you determine which answer is correct of the several opinions that are often posted?

3. Insurance requirements In the event that a treatment leads to someone suing you, how would your insurer feel if you had acted on a Facebook recommendations?

Would this action null and void your insurance?

4. By posting a skin condition for others to tell you what it is, what does that say about you and your knowledge? How would your clients feel if they saw it?

Clinicians and doctors who work on the skin have a level of education that allows them to accurately diagnose a condition. If they are at all unsure or in doubt they refer the client or patient to an appropriate professional who can assess the condition further and either treat them or refer the recommendation back to them. That is standard professional protocol. As professionals, exposing our ignorance on Facebook undermines our credibility, exposes our lack of knowledge and furthermore, using this mechanism to gain clinical diagnoses makes us look unprofessional and unqualified to be treating that client's skin condition in the first place. The medical profession would consider this unprofessional conduct.

IN SUMMARY Before I sat down to write this article I looked at the subject from every angle objectively and I can assure you I have everyone's best interest’s at heart. For us to be seen as professionals in this world, first we must act as a professional. You would never see a doctor post a photo on Facebook asking for advice on how to treat his patient – think about that.

I love social media as a communication tool – a tool to display your business and grow your business. It is fantastic for advertising and getting your name out there cheaply and effectively. It is also a wonderful tool to help you stay in touch with the industry, find out the latest in equipment, product and treatments, but don't use it for determining disorders and for analysing the skin. The advice you are given is not always right, and it definitely cannot be accurate, and in some ways it is dangerous. How well do you know the person who all with good intentions has steered you down the right path with their advice.

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There are industry bodies such as APAN that once you are a member offer a great service on pointing you in the right direction so that you receive the correct information at all times. They will ensure you are protected in the choices you make, while guiding you in the right direction.

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I see in my travels therapist using the words “experts in their field” I ask you, if you post a photo of someone or something on a social media page, is that showing you are an expert in your field?

You type a question into Google and so many different quotes and answers will appear from people adding their point of view. Their point of view is not the reliable answer you should act on. Although helpful, they could be misleading in some way. Every time we offer advice on a social media, although we think we are right does not mean we are right.

This is food for thought and I trust that you can gain some value from this perspective, and in closing I wish to assure you that I have the industry's best interest’s at heart.

Bring the STAR QUALITY to your Treatments through NEW ADVANCED EDUCATION and see YOUR BUSINESS GROW Take part in the 2015 training program with Gay Wardle BRISBANE: 1 Day Courses Day 3 13th April Skin Disorders and Treatment Protocols Day 1 16th November Back to Basics Day 2 17th November Advanced Skin Anatomy & Analysis Day 3 18th November Skin Disorders & Treatment Protocols MELBOURNE: 1 Day Courses Day 2 25th March Advanced Skin Anatomy & Analysis Day 3 27th April Skin Disorders and Treatment Protocols ***

Day 1 20th July Back to Basics Day 2 21st July Advanced Skin Anatomy and Analysis Day 3 22nd July Skin Disorders & Treatment Protocols ***

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Day 1 23rd November Back to Basics Day 2 24th November Advanced Skin Anatomy and Analysis Day 3 25th November Skin Disorders & Treatment Protocols PERTH: 1 Day Courses Day 1 28th March Back to Basics

Day 2 29th March Advanced Skin Anatomy and Analysis Day 3 30th April Skin Disorders and Treatment Protocols SYDNEY: 1 Day Courses Day 2 11th March Advanced Skin Anatomy and Analysis Day 3 8th April Skin Disorders and Treatment Protocols Day 1 13th July Back to Basics Day 2 14th July Advanced Skin Anatomy & Analysis Day 3 15th July Skin Disorders & Treatment Protocols ADELAIDE: 1 Day Courses * (note date changes) Day 1 27th July Back to Basics Day 2 28th July Advanced Skin Anatomy & Analysis Day 3 29th July Skin Disorders & Treatment Protocols

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ENROL TODAY and start preparing for your best year ever! ㈵

For further details and to book

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Visit www.masterdermalacademy.com.au | Email: gay@m-da.com.au

Ph: 0418 708 455

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

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found in the BMP signalling pathway – Smad1 and Smad5.

The researchers discovered that these two proteins trigger signals that are critical for the regulation of stem cells during new hair growth. In the latest study, published last month, the investigators analysed how the gene Wnt7b – which they first came across in their initial study – activates hair growth.

They found that impairment of Wnt7b stunts hair growth. Overall, their research suggests that hfCS are able to regenerate hair follicles.

The hfSCs are controlled by the BMP and Wnt signalling pathways, which combine to control cell functions, such as the cycles of hair growth.

Treatment Potential 'broader Than baldness'

NEW DISCOVERIES COULD LEAD TO HAIR AND SKIN REGENERATION Researchers from the University of Southern California say they have made a number of new discoveries that could lead to potential hair-regeneration treatment, and even skin regeneration. This is according to three studies published in the journals Stem Cells and The Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.

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According to the American Hair Loss Association, around twothirds of US men will have experienced some degree of hair loss by the age of 35, and around 85% of men will have significantly thinning hair by the age of 50. Although hair loss is typically associated with men, figures state that women make up 40% of all hair loss sufferers in the US, showing that hair-loss is a condition that can affect us all.

But the team of researchers, l e d b y D r. K r z y s z t o f Kobielak, say they have uncovered some of the factors that determine when

hair grows, when it stops growing, and when it falls out – factors that could lead to new treatments to combat baldness or receding hairlines.

For their first study, published in January this year, the research team discovered a series of genes, including the Wnt and BMP signalling pathways. These pathways were found to control hair-growth cycles. In detail, decreased signalling of the BMP pathway and increased signalling of the Wnt pathway triggered hair growth, while increased BMP signaling and reduced Wnt signalling caused hair-follicle stem cells (hfSCs) to adopt a "resting state." In another study, published in September this year, the investigators analysed the function of two key proteins

But Kobielak says their findings could lead to new treatments, not only for baldness, but for many human diseases. He explains that since BMP signalling has a key regulatory role in maintaining the stability of different types of adult stem-cell populations, the implication for future therapies might be potentially much broader than baldness, and could include skin regeneration for burn patients and skin cancer.

Earlier this year, Medical News Today reported on a study detailing a promising new treatment for baldness. It involves growing human hairs from a person's own dermal papilla cells – found inside the hair follicles. It is anticipated that this discovery will help provide a new “cure” for baldness and hairloss.

PHOTO-DAMAGE AFFECTS EFFICACY OF SKINCARE PRODUCTS If skin suffers from hypocollagenesis, well-formulated s k i n c a r e p r o d u c t s m a y o ff e r significant results.

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“Doctor, what should I use on my skin?” No matter what skin condition prompts a patient to visit a

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dermatologist, this question is almost sure to arise. That's what motivated Dana L. Sachs, MD, and her colleagues at the Department of Dermatology, University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, to conduct research on the effectiveness of five well-known skincare products. Results of the study appeared in the article, “Hypo-collagenesis in photoaged skin predicts response to anti-ageing cosmeceuticals” (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, June 2013).

“We chose five products with different active ingredients that had at least some published literature to explain why they might work,” says Dr. Sachs. “We wanted to see if there was a standout ingredient that might justify a larger clinical trial. Since previous research has shown that the appearance of photo-aged skin strongly correlates with increased collagenesis as measured by the synthesis of pro-collagen 1, we set out to measure the effect of these products on this collagen precursor.”

The ingredients and products were:

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Vitamin C cream, Active C, La RochePosay Alpha-lipoic acid cream, Antioxidant and Texturising Day Cream, Reviva Labs Live yeast extract cream, Preparation H with Bio-Dyne, WhiteHall RobbinsPfizer.

Collagen-derived pentapeptide cream, StriVectin SD, Strivectin Operating Company. Idebenone 1% cream, Prevage MD, Allergan.

improvement independent of age, sex or type of product applied. Changes for patients with normal pro-collagen 1 at baseline were insignificant independent of age, sex or type of product applied.

“In the end you could argue that it didn't matter which product you used. Significant changes were visible only in patients with crummy skin,” says Dr. Sachs. “That doesn't mean the products might not produce subtle changes that could become visible over months or years of use. It just means we could not detect them with the tools available to us in this study.

“I still believe there is a reason to use skincare products,” says Dr. Sachs. “I'm a huge proponent of retinoids and there is quite a bit of research to support their effectiveness.

Over-the-counter retinol products are less irritating to the skin than Retin A (tretinoin), but that also means there is no way to know how they are formulated – whether the concentration of actives is optimal, whether active ingredients are stabilised and whether the formulation will penetrate the stratum corneum. I tell my patients not to spend huge amounts on skincare products; but on the other hand, if they have the resources, I don't talk them out of it. I definitely recommend daily sunscreen use and a retinol cream at night.”

Linda W. Lewis is a contributing editor to MedEsthetics.

The researchers purchased the products and tested each on the forearm skin of 16 to 20 patients, 45 years of age or older, whose forearm skin showed clinical features of photodamage. Products were applied for 10 days to two weeks according to the manufacturers' recommendations.

Four subjects left the study because of irritation caused by the creams and five others were eliminated from the results because of problems with tissue processing in the laboratory. The remaining 91 subjects were analysed for pro-collagen1 levels determined by 4mm punch biopsies taken at baseline and 24 hours after the last topical application. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Results were similar for each of the products Pro-collagen 1 levels increased significantly for some subjects and not at all for others.

After analysing the data to see if any criterion was associated with response, they found the only factor that influenced treatment outcome was hypo-collagenesis (procollagen 1 level below 9) at baseline. Patients with hypocollagenesis at baseline showed significant

FDA CLEARS PATH FOR BOTOX IMITATORS A new guidance document released recently by the FDA wants to help some biopharmaceutical manufacturers smooth the wrinkles out of the drug development process for products containing botulinum toxin, better known as Botox.

The guidance, Upper Facial Lines: Developing Botulinum Toxin Drug Products, is specifically intended only for those botulinum products intended to temporarily improve the appearance of wrinkles in the

"upper facial" region, such as glabellar lines or lateral canthal lines.

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So why the guidance? FDA notes that there is "an increase in demand for aesthetic procedures to treat the progressive development of facial lines that are associated with the ageing process." And because the injection of botulinum toxin happens to be one of the "most common" procedures used to temporarily reduce the appearance of wrinkles, FDA said it's interested in helping potential sponsors of product applications reach the market more easily.

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But even as the use of botulinum toxin is one of the most common procedures, it still holds the potential to cause serious adverse events if administered in incorrect doses. That's because the botulinum toxin which causes botulismis is a potent neurotoxin that can cause paralysis. As FDA explains in its guidance, one of the single most important parts of any drug-development process involving botulinum toxin will be the process of identifying a safe and effective dose.

"Botulinum toxin drug products present a unique set of safety concerns related to the potential for local and distant spread of toxin effect," the regulator explained.

“Sponsors should address unique concerns such as inadvertent injection, unintended mucosal exposure and unintended transfer of the drug product," FDA wrote. "A delivery system designed to reduce the risk of inadvertent injection should be considered early in the development process.”

FDA recommends sponsors conduct two "adequate and well-controlled trials" (i.e. Phase III trials) to establish the safety and efficacy of a botulinum product, utilising both quantitative assessments and patient-reported outcomes (PROs) to determine the product's efficacy.

Endpoints should be discussed with FDA prior to the initiation of a trial. Those trials should include patients representative of the population expected to use the drug, FDA added.

Sponsors can, however, request a waiver from pediatric testing since babies with wrinkles are, in FDA's words, "uncommon".

In Australia, although rare, there are still reported cases of moderate to severe allergic reactions from patients receiving these treatments.

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cells and to enhance the development of skin cancer, 54 % of radiation came through glass.

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For the study, the cockpit radiation was measured in the pilot seat of a general aviation turboprop airplane through a plastic windshield at ground level and at various heights above sea level. Sun exposures were measured in San Jose, California, and in Las Vegas around midday in April. The authors suggest the levels could be higher when pilots are flying over thick clouds and snow fields, which can reflect UV radiation.

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RADIATION RISKS FOR FLIGHT ATTENDANTS AND AIRPLANE CREW Pilots flying at 30,000 feet for an hour are exposed to as much radiation as 20 minutes in a tanning bed, a new study finds a recent report confirmed. Tanning beds have received much scrutiny in recent years, with State lawmakers banning their use in Australia.

Another space, however, is being largely overlooked, though is considered just as dangerous: Ultraviolet exposure on planes.

A study published in JAMA Dermatology found that windshields used in airplanes are not strong enough to protect the inside of a plane from UV radiation. Frequent flyers shouldn't worry, experts say, but pilots and flight attendants are at high risk for developing melanoma, the deadliest though least common type of skin cancer. "At the pilot seat, flying for 56.6 minutes at 30,000 feet, you could get the same amount of radiation of a 20-minute tanning beds session," says Dr. Martina Sanlorenzo, coauthor of the study and dermatologist at UCSF Medical Center at Mount Zion.

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Indoor tanning devices, as well as excessive exposure to UV rays in the sun, are agreed upon by experts as being the most preventable causes of all types of skin cancer. The incidence of melanoma has continued to increase during the past four decades, according to the American Academy of Dermatology, although it is curable when it is detected early. The American Cancer Society estimates that in 2014 about 76,100 new melanoma patients will be diagnosed and about 9,710 will die.

The Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association reported that it has not received any calls from its members regarding solar radiation issues.

But Dr. Darrell Rigel, clinical professor of dermatology at New York University Medical School, says pilots have the No. 1 incidence of any other job of developing melanoma – though whether it is due to the sun exposure while flying is unclear.

"There's always a bunch of questions," Rigel says. "Is it the radiation they get while flying, or is it that they have layovers in sunny places and hang out by the pool?"

Rigel says his own studies on the topic have shown that pilots' rates of melanoma are four to five times higher than the rest of the population. A study Sanlorenzo published this September showed that both pilots and cabin crew have about twice the incidence of melanoma compared with the general population. The Air Line Pilots Association says it has not conducted studies on pilots' incidence of melanoma, but that it has been monitoring the issue closely for years, and that it regularly recommended pilots wear sunscreen and sunglasses for protection while both on and off duty.

The type of windshields planes use vary, although plastic materials appear to block more harmful rays than glass ones do.

Sanlorenzo says a Federal Aviation Administration report from 2007 cites measurements of windshield transmission performed on different aircrafts. The transmission of UVB rays – which tend to damage the surface of the skin – through both glass and plastic windshields was less than 1 %, but UVA transmission varied significantly depending on the type of windshield. While plastic materials blocked almost all UVA rays of the type known to cause DNA damage in

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Military pilots also have higher incidence than civilian pilots, Rigel says, because they spend more time in the air. The higher the altitude, the bigger the window, and the longer flight crew are exposed to the sun, the higher the risk of exposing their skin to damaging radiation.

Construction workers, lifeguards and firemen also have jobs that involve cumulative sun exposure the way pilots do, Rigel says. Dr. Ali Hendi, board-certified dermatologist and clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Georgetown University Hospital, adds truck drivers, ski instructors, fishermen and golfers to the list. "The dermatology community is aware of the increased risk of skin cancer among pilots," he says.

Rigel warns that someone who regularly works indoors, such as in an office, can have a single, blistering sunburn and risk two-fold of developing melanoma. "The best [protection] is avoidance," Hendi says. "However, this is not reasonable in many instances." He recommends using sunscreen, sunglasses and sun-protective clothing, and says tinted windows make a difference.

Dermatologists also recommend regular skin checkups. Rigel says many skin doctors' motto is: "On your birthday, have your birthday suit examined by your dermatologist." Pilots have physicals twice a year to qualify to fly, he says, so skin exams should occur then. ㄰

Melanoma is detected by changes in skin color or abnormal moles. Rigel does not think people who fly frequently are at risk, because windows for them are on the sides of planes, and the sun would have to hit passengers perpendicularly to have an impact. He says he hopes to see airlines begin to look at guidelines to protect flight crew from UV rays, perhaps by installing tinted windows.

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ARE HYPERPIGMENTATION TREATMENTS DOING MORE HARM THAN GOOD? For decades, people have lamented the spots that develop on the face as they age. What if those spots were actually beneficial to the health of your skin? Should that change your approach to treating them? It is possible that some of the current strategies that are being employed to treat hyperpigmentation result in more spots throughout time. This article addresses the common misconceptions about the role of age spots, liver spots and melasma, and offers new ways to correct these issues without compromising the health of the skin.

Causes of common hyperpigmentation Research suggests that the majority of age spots result from DNAdamaged melanocytes.1 Hundreds of them exist in facial skin, and they are constantly being bombarded by the sun. However, just about every melanocyte has DNA damage and very few are overreacting.

What does that mean? The answer is in what lies beneath those melanocytes.

Age spots. The epidermis is on the front lines of UV damage, which is one reason why it sheds damaged skin every month. However, one key part, the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), does not. In my opinion, the repeated damage to the DEJ may be the trigger for age spots. Essentially, years of repeated sun exposure lead to a nonhealing wound on the DEJ. The wounded DEJ sends a message to nearby melanocytes to help protect the skin from more sun damage.

As a result, the melanocyte creates the equivalent of a “melanin umbrella” – also known as an age spot – that serves to provide extra protection to the damaged zone. If you think about it, this is no different than a tanning response, which creates melanin to protect a larger damaged zone caused by a sunburn. The skin always does what is best, even though it may not always seem like it and, in this case, the age spot is an appropriate response.

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Melasma. A similar response can be tied to melasma. Underneath melasma is inflamed skin, and the excess pigment created is designed to protect that area from sun damage. However, I believe the difference between melasma and age spots is that melasma originates from liver damage usually caused by birth-control pills. Sun damage makes it worse, because the skin is already inflamed and more damage will trigger the skin to create more pigment. The same is true for lasers and peels that “cause melasma”. The skin was already compromised from the liver effect and the inflammatory procedure pushed it to a higher level of inflammation, which triggered the “melanocyte shield”. These inflammatory treatments are not the cause, but they should be avoided for obvious reasons.

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Ref: SkinInc. Ben Johnson, MD

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BUSINESS NEWS

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes !

WHAT IF WE SELL BETTER INSTEAD OF SELLING MORE? We know that staff hate the word “sales”, but it is the money from sales that will give them job security and keep your doors open for business. Now a new approach has been suggested by experts. What if you aimed to sell better instead of focusing on only selling more?

Strive not to be the best business in the world, but the best business FOR the world, is the new approach. This is the new philosophy that is encouraging the proliferation of a new type of business entity that uses the power of business to solve social and environmental problems. They encourage businesses to be a force for good for everyone, and it is this sociological appeal that will pull at consumers’ heartstrings as they will respect and identify with your philosophy.

That is not saying for an instant that all other businesses are bad; however, it does mean that if we endorse the intent of 'being the best business FOR the world' we (business leaders, management, staff and investors) need to consider the consequences of our actions past, present and future.

It doesn't mean less profit either. Study after study has shown that businesses that have a purpose beyond financial profit outperform other companies in their industry in the long term. When it comes to selling, what does 'selling better' versus 'selling more' mean in real terms?

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We recognise that 'selling is everybody's business and everybody lives by selling something' and effective selling is about the 'fair exchange of value between seller and buyer'. These are ways in which you can introduce ethical effective selling into the business world. Are you also doing everything you can to be a carbon neutral/negative business solar panels, paperless online sales training programs, and so on.

Let's look at this concept for the aesthetics industry. Would selling better involve:

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Considering the safety of the products you use and recommend?

Considering including health benefits, not just beauty in your products and services?

Considering the environment?

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Are you offering your clients valuable educational news of health and beauty issues to improve their knowledge and give them confidence? ! Are you doing good – supporting and contributing to a community based organisation, helping the underprivileged or cancer research, etc? ! Are you combining packages that are tailor-made for your clients’ specific needs including in these package benefits to minimise their stress levels and support their health and wellbeing? ! Are you increasing the value of what they are getting instead of just discounting? ! Would selling better also mean better attraction and retention of staff who want to work for such businesses because they know they are 'doing good' for the world in some way? ! Would selling better mean helping those people with ideas and/or innovations for positive change and better outcomes for the world get better traction with clients and prospects?

Would selling better mean that people would be able to sell more confidently, more honourably and make a decent living out of selling those ideas, products and services that do good?

Would selling better ironically mean that we could sell more, but in a way that is best for the world?

Consumers value not just services and outcomes, but they also have a hunger to belong to a community that can respect and have similar values as them. How many times have you heard a client say “I used to buy so-and-so product, but I don't buy it anymore because I have discovered they are still testing on animals.” Social conscience is at the heart of “selling better” so consider such strategies.

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar

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Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators ㈵

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Mar20-23 COSMOPROF Bologna Fair District Italy T: +39 02 454708224 Email: visitors@cosmoprof.it

Mar21-23 Face & Body Midwest McCormick Place West 2301 S Indiana Avenue Chicago, T: 1-630-653-2155 F: 1-630-653-2192 Email: FBMW@allured.com Mar27-29 IMCAS China Kerry Hotel, 1388 Hua Mu Road, Pudong 201204. Shanghai T: + 86 158 0090 0796 F: + 33 1 40 709 240 E-mail: contact@imcas.com Apr26-27 Esthetique SPA International Downtown Metro Convention Centre, Toronto, Canada T: + 886 772 7469 Email: info@spa-show.com Apr26-27 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa Dallas Arlington Convention Center Arlington, Texas T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com Apr30-May2 Cosmetex 15 Cosmetic Surgery & Medical Expo Pullman Hotel, Albert Park Melbourne, Vic, Australia T: +61 2 9368 1200 F: +61 2 9368 1500 E-mail: cosmetex@cosmetex.org Apr30-May2 Beauty Eurasia Istanbul Expo Center Istanbul, Turkey T: +90 212 6033333 F: + 90 212 6033333 E-Mail: info@beautyeurasia.com

BEAT THOSE BURNT-OUT BLUES ㄰

May3-4

Productivity suckers attack when our guard is down, making us lethargic and less industrious.

To help you beat this year's workplace energy-sapping nasties, here are some key proven strategies for combating potential distractions that can sap your productivity and energy.

Esthetique SPA International Quebec City Convention Centre Quebec, Canada T: + 886 772 7469 Email: info@spa-show.com

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KNOW YOUR FUEL 㜵

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Everyone runs out of energy some days, particularly in the aftermath of intense work periods.

Work out what gives you a kick start. For some it may be to pop out for a quick walk to get some fresh air or take a brief break for a coffee. It is important to work out what peps you up and acknowledge you need those breaks to maintain your productivity. After all, you are not a machine, you are human and knowing your limitations and what will recharge you is important, and it is also your responsibility to find out what it is.

May 6-9

Annual World Congress on AntiAging Medicine and Biomedical Technologies Diplomat Resort & Spa Hollywood, Florida, USA T: + 1-888 997 0112 Email: doreen.brown@a4m.com

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ASK YOURSELF THESE FOUR QUESTIONS: 1.

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What tasks must you achieve today?

How long is it going to take you to do them Are your goals realistic?

What time will you start and when will you finish?

Which tasks are your priority?

Boost your mood before arriving at the office by spending time with a four-legged mate or after a hard day's work. A lick from a loved one is a positive way to counter intense deadlines and help you relax and recharge.

TAKE SHORT BREAKS

When you assign a time, place and targets as well as specifics of what you are actually going to do and review these you can more realistically assess if you goals are achievable. Many people leave their most mentally challenging tasks until too late in the day when their energy levels are at their lowest. Do the more challenging tasks first and get them out of the way.

Did you know multiple mini-breaks buoy energy levels more effectively than one long lunch? Slice that lunchtime hour into quarters take 15 minutes four times a day and enjoy a mega boost of productivity. Research shows brief diversions from a task can dramatically improve one's ability to focus for prolonged periods, plus we've all felt the physical effects of sitting at a screen for extended periods.

LIMIT NEWS FEEDS

CLEAN YOUR WORKSPACE OR YOUR DESK

Block Facebook notifications and real-time news alerts. They suck time and undermine productivity. Designate a time for checking social media and stick to that time. Rather than 'ban' social media, set aside X minutes daily for your social media. You will find you will be far more productive that way.

SCRAP COMPLICATED 'TO DO' LISTS Long lists of daily must-dos can work for some, but can often be selfdefeating and depressing. If you find this is happening to you either limit the list to realistic achievable targets or replace them with key goals and maintain your focus toward these goals.

If you cannot remember your laminate colour, is it time to clean your desk?

Clutter is stress-producing, so curb your anxiety with a workstation free of long-standing documents, brochures and bills that can get hidden and forgotten under a pile.

FUEL THE TEMPLE Aside from keeping us alive there is another compelling reason to drink water at work. It regularly gets us out of our seats to visit the bathroom. Legs stretch, blood flows, energy lifts. Fuel the brain with small snacks such as fruit or a healthy drink to spike your energy levels.

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CUDDLE YOUR PET Human contact with animals is a proven fast train to Calm Street.

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May20-25 CIDESCO World Congress Convention Center Sandton, South Africa T: + 41 44 448 22 00 F: + 41 44 448 22 01 Email: info@cidesco.com

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APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE – BRISBANE Stamford Plaza Hotel, Brisbane T: +61 7 5593 0360 Email: info@apanetwork.com

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May31-Jun2 Premier Orlando Orlando/Orange County Convention Center T: +1 407.265.3131 F: +1 407.265.3134 Jun4-7

Non-Surgical Symposium Melbourne Convention Exhibition Centre T: 03 9020 7056 Email: info@tphe.com.au

Jun21

APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE – SYDNEY Mercure Hotel, George St Sydney T: +61 755 930 360 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Jun20-22 Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Las Vegas Convention Center T: + 212.895.8200 F: + 212.895.8209 Web: http://www.iecsc.com/lv

what is it worth?

HOW OUR BRAIN DETERMINES IF THE PRODUCT IS WORTH THE PRICE Are consumers more likely to buy if they see the price before the product, or vice versa?

Uma Karmarkar and colleagues scan the brains of shoppers to find out.

Think of the last time you went shopping. By the time you decided to buy a product, you knew both what you were buying and how much it cost. But was your decision affected by whether you saw the price or the product first? That's the question at the heart of new experimental research that uses neuroscience tools to shed light on how our brains make purchasing decisions.

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"We were interested in whether considering the price first changed how people thought about the decision process, and whether it changed the way the brain coded the value of a product," says Uma R. Karmarkar, a neuroscientist and assistant professor in the Marketing unit at Harvard Business School, who conducted the research.

Jun28-29 Professional Beauty Cape Town International Convention Centre Cape Town, South Africa Web: www.probeauty.co.za/ct.htm Jul12-14 COSMOPROF North America Mandalay Bay Las Vegas T: + 1 480.281.0424 x 3445 Email: info@cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

Aug1-2

9th Annual Anti-Aging & Aesthetic Medicine Conference Sofitel Melbourne T: 03 98130439 F: 03 98130649 Email: enquiries@a5m.net

Aug13-15 New Zealand Society of Cosmetic Medicine Annual Conference T: +61 9 4365 829 F: + 61 9 4370 487 E-mail: nzscm@clear.net.nz www.nzscm.co.nz

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“We were interested in whether considering the price first changed the way the brain coded the value of a product.”

The researchers found that price primacy (viewing the price first) makes consumers more likely to focus on whether a product is worth its price, and consequently can help induce the purchase of specific kinds of bargain-priced items. Their study, ‘Cost Conscious? The Neural and Behavioral Impact of Price Primacy on Decision-Making’, will appear in a forthcoming issue of the Journal of Marketing Research.

Aug22-24 Face & Body Northern California McEnery Convention Center San Jose, CA T: +1-630-653-2155 F: +1-630-653-2192 Email: FBNC@allured.com

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The research could help retailers and marketers decide when it's best to lead with price, which products work best with that strategy, and how to frame sales messages to consumers.

In the experiment and to encourage purchasing, the products were offered at sub-retail prices. Sometimes participants saw the price first, and sometimes they saw the product first. But in every case, they eventually saw an image of both the product and the price presented together. At that point, they chose whether to purchase the product, indicating yes or no with the push of a button. After exiting the machine, participants filled out a survey to rate how much they had liked each product, on a scale of 1 to 7. The researchers focused on brain activity at the moment participants saw the product and price presented together. They were most interested in the medial prefrontal cortex (the area in the brain that deals with estimating decision value) and the nucleus accumbens (an area that's been called the pleasure centre, and whose activity is correlated with whether a product is viscerally desirable). "What we cared about was whether the neural patterns in these areas looked different at the point when the information on the screen was eventually the same," Karmarkar says.

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The results showed that the brain activity varied according to whether the participant had seen the price or product first. "The pattern of activity in the prefrontal cortex suggested to us that sequence matters: At the very simplest, the neural signals looked different when the price came first versus when the product came first," Karmarkar says.

"When the product came first, the decision question seemed to be one of 'Do I like it?' and when the price came first, the question seemed to be 'Is it worth it?' “ That said, price primacy didn't have much of an effect on actual purchasing behavior. Participants bought about the same number of items and reported similar "liking" ratings regardless of whether they had seen a product or price first. The researchers suspected that even if participants were more critical of a product's value in the price

primacy condition, the products were equally attractive under both conditions. Most of the participants were in their 20s, and most of the products appealed to their demographicmovies, clothing, makeup, and so on. "If you really love something, and you can afford it, you're going to buy it," Karmarkar says. "For those kinds of 'easy' decisions, it doesn't matter much whether the product or the price comes first.”

And while the results of this initial experiment had been significant to neuroscience, Karmarkar's team also wanted to show that their research could have real-world implications for retailersa direct effect on whether a consumer decided to buy a product. They hypothesised that price primacy might actually increase the likelihood of buying products, but only if the decision was related more to the product's usefulness than to pure emotional desire. "The question isn't whether the price makes a product seem better, it's whether a product is worth its price," Karmarkar says. "Putting the price first just tightens the link between the benefit you get from the price and the benefit you get from the product itself.”

But the research also revealed a notable caveat: After participants indicated whether they wanted to buy a product, they reported exactly how much they'd personally be willing to pay for the item, typing a dollar amount into an online form. Surprisingly, the average willingness-to-pay amount was slightly lower in cases where they had viewed the price first. This indicates that if retailers want to take advantage of price primacy, they need to advertise true bargains. So, for instance, a gigantic neon sign advertising $5 off a $20,000 car?

That's going to turn customers away.

"If it's an insignificant discount, then you're actually putting yourself at a disadvantage by highlighting the price first, because people are now cognitively scrutinising the price and making sure it's worth it," Karmarkar says. "You can't just try to fool people into thinking it's a great price."

Carmen Nobel is senior editor of Harvard Business School Working Knowledge.

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Aug22-23 Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo Sydney Convention and Exhibition Centre, Darling Harbour T: 02 9422 2535

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Email: visit@internationalbeautyexpo.com.au

Aug22-24 Face & Body Northern California McEnery Convention Center San Jose T: + 1-630-653-2155 F: + 1-630-653-2192 Email: FBNC@allured.com

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Red tape headache as unions push for part-time guarantee for new parents A push by unions to guarantee the right of workers to return to work part-time or on reduced hours after taking parental leave will “immediately” create more red tape for small businesses and give the Fair Work Commission another opportunity to “interfere” with how employers run their businesses, according to the Council of Small Business of Australia.

Employees currently have the right to request flexible work arrangements following parental leave but the Australian Council of Trade Unions this week lodged a claim with the Fair Work Commission to ensure workers covered by an award are entitled to return to their previous position on a part-time basis or on reduced hours. According to the ACTU's claim, lodged as part of Fair Work's review of modern award agreements, if the employee's previous position was not available or there were substantial grounds to not alter their previous position, the employer would be required to offer a position that is “equivalent in status and pay”. An employer would only be able to refuse an employee's request on “substantial business grounds”.

The ACTU is calling for Fair Work to grant employees the right to revert to the position they had prior to taking parental leave for two years from the birth or adoption of their child, or later if their employer agreed. Employees would also be eligible for two days' paid leave to attend any appointments associated with pregnancy, adoption or permanent care orders.

“There are much bigger issues around discrimination of women in the workplace, which still exists.” ACTU president Ged Kearney said in a statement while the ACTU “recognises that all workplaces are different and doesn't dictate specific terms”, its claim “puts in place a process that requires employers to genuinely consider alternative work arrangements when women return to work”.

But Strong says it is difficult to trust the Fair Work Commission to adjudicate on these kinds of disputes. “You can't trust them to make a decision about a business they have never been in and on a person who they have only seen across a courtroom,” he says. According to Strong, the ACTU's claim would ultimately increase the workload of small-business owners. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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“If one person comes back to work and asks to work part-time, then the business has to hire two people for the same job. If two people come back to work part-time, they might have to hire three people to do the two jobs,” he says. “The work of the small-business owner increases just by someone asking that. Is that going to be a good thing for the employment conditions of the employee? It's not good for anyone.”

Strong says the ACTU proposal also neglects the fact many small businesses are owned and operated by women with families, and these women could be forced take on a greater workload if their employees want to reduce their working hours. “Is a business not gender specific?”

Strong says. “The ACTU needs to get its gender issues sorted. A small business can be a woman.”

Aug30-31 Professional Beauty Johannesburg Gallagher Convention Centre Johannesburg, South Africa www.probeauty.co.za/jhb.htm Sep20-21 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, California T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com Sep27-28 Esthetique SPA International Montréal Convention Centre Montreal (QC) Canada T: + 450 434-4738 Fax: +450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com Oct11-12 Professional Beauty Dublin RDS Dublin T: + 44 (0)844 557 0914 Email: info@professionalbeauty.co.uk Oct18

But COSBOA executive director Peter Strong slammed the proposal, stating the fact that an employer could find themselves in court if their business cannot accommodate a request from an employee to work part-time is “ridiculous”. Strong says the “great majority” of small business owners do their best to provide flexible working arrangements for parents, especially in workplaces with just a few employees, but more “rules and regulations create conflict in the workplace”. “It's creating trouble where trouble doesn't exist,” Strong says.

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APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE – MELBOURNE Pullman Hotel Albert Park T: + 61 7559 30360 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Oct19-21 Beauty World Japan West Intex, 1-5-102, Nanko-Kita, Suminoe-ku, Nanko, Osaka T: + 49 69 75 75-0 F: + 49 69 75 75-64 33 Email: beautyworld@messefrankfurst.com

Oct25-26 Premier Birmingham Birmingham/Jefferson Convention Center, Birmingham, AL USA T: +1 407.265.3131 F: +1 407.265.3134 Nov11-13 Cosmoprof ASIA Convention & Exhibition Centre Hong Kong T: +852-2827 6211 F: +852-3749 7345 E-mail: joanne.fai@ubm.com

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Nov15-16 Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Broward County Convention Center, Florida USA T: + 212.895.8200 F: + 212.895.8209 Web: http://www.iecsc.com/fl

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Ref: www.smartcompany.com.au

APJ 97

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The New Trend Focus

on the Eyes

EYEBROW EXTENSIONS One of the signs of ageing is a definite decrease in body hair, and that includes the hair on our head, eyelashes and eyebrows.

Hair extensions have been particularly popular with the under 30s as a fashion statement, but short hairpieces are also used by mature women who wish to gain a more youthful look. A perfect example is Christie Brinkley, who was born in 1954 and turned 60 last year. She boasts that one of her tricks to retaining her youthful appearance is by the clever application of hairpieces.

In recent times eyelash extensions revolutionised the beauty world, eliminating the need for curlers, volumising with fibres or heavy mascaras. Lash extensions involve the application of individual lashes that are adhered to existing lashes through a special adhesive. While they are a great fashion statement for the young and daring, the more mature woman who wishes to look younger will need the correct length as well as the appropriate volume that will enhance the eye without looking fake or overdone.

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Now, eyebrow extensions are also making similar waves. They offer a much more natural look and can complement eyelashes that have been enhanced through the addition of extensions.

RELEVANCE TO THE SURROUNDING FEATURES Beauty is about proportion and balance and not just symmetry. In recent years world experts in the cosmetic medical field have identified the need for enhancement to harmonise with the surrounding environment. What they have identified is that if for example we have an ageing lower face, volumising the lips to look younger can look artificial and odd if the surrounding tissue is still slack and lacking in tone. Lifting the eyebrows, but leaving the eyes as droopy, is another example. Enhancing just one part of the face can

actually make you look older or distorted. This realisation has led to what is known as the “global effect”, which is the new trend in face lifting. This is where enhancement is more subtle and spread over a larger area.

When we bring this concept across to eyelashes and eyebrows it is now understood that you cannot make the eyes look more youthful with extra lash extensions and volume and leave the eyebrows thin and unshapely. It stands to reason that enhancing the appearance also of the eyebrows through shape, volume of hair and colour is necessary for both eyebrows and eyelashes to achieve the global effect.

But what exactly are brow extensions? And what is needed for them to look natural? What is involved in introducing them to your clients and what do they offer a salon business in terms of revenue growth? We caught up with Otto Mitter from Ex-Imports, who is the exclusive distributor of Sleek Brows from the UK. Otto shared with us valuable information from a supplier/trainer perspective. We also caught up with Teresa Russo from South Australia who has found a very successful way to promote this service in her salon. We are delighted that they both were willing to freely share their knowledge and experiences. ㄰

APJ Q1: Otto, what motivated you to introduce an Eyebrow Extension product and what is your products’ leading features?

Our company started off with Belmacil eyelash and brow tints and went on to develop other complementary products to enhance the appearance of the eyes. Since introducing eyelash extension products we have for several years researched the availability of eyebrow extensions. We tried and tested several brands from the US, but were not completely happy. There was a limited choice in the type of hair

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available and sometimes that meant having to trim them to make them fit the brow shape. We also were not happy with some of the adhesives. Then we came upon Sleek Brows from the UK. These were different. They offered a superior product, not just with their hair variety, but also their adhesive was of a much higher quality.

Their application techniques were also more advanced. One of the challenges we encountered was that thinning lashes or very thin lashes were hard to build up if there was no hair on the skin for an extension hair to be adhered to. However, Sleek Brows introduced a semipermanent sculpturing paint that works brilliantly in that it creates a very thin and invisible base that is designed to adhere on the skin. This innovation enables the application of hairs on bald patches, or for individuals who have no hair to improve the shape of their brows.

skill to correct application. We offer comprehensive and accredited training that requires that Eyebrow Technicians reach competency levels in precision application, shape and balance. This is very much a specialised field of work.

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APJ Q5: What profit margins can a business expert?

This is quite a profitable service. The starter kit with complete training is approximately $770. The cost of a service is between $65 and $95. In each kit you get roughly 9000 brow hairs, brown, medium and light brown (roughly 3000 per colour). Of course how many sets you can get will vary depending on each client's need, but on average you should get 50 applications per colour tray so the profit margin is excellent. Additionally, with the sculpting paint you get 70 application per kit and you can charge an additional $20 per application.

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As for their benefit, the key ones that come to mind are that they are non-invasive, quick to apply and deliver a unique and very natural result that is very different to powders and pencils. Their finish is very professional and they can make an amazing difference to an individual.

For the business this is a specialised niche service and a wonderful service to deliver brow restoration, for which there is a huge demand at the moment.

APJ Q2: Who is a good candidate for eyebrow enhancement?

Anyone with a partial eyebrow-hair loss is a good candidate. This includes alopecia, chemotherapy patients, or every hair loss due to ageing or hereditary reasons. It is also popular for individuals who have sparse eyebrows due to over-plucking over the years. This service can offer additional depth to services such as tinting or sculpturing. You can improve and correct the shape with the sculpturing paint and fill in with extensions. The good thing is that the sculpturing paint also contains vitamins A and E, so it helps to improve shape and encourage hair growth.

APJ Q3: How can these services dovetail and enhance other grooming services, and how do they compare with eyelash extensions?

Lashes and brows go hand-in-hand. If you are good at eyelash extensions you can easily pick up this service as it will appeal often to the same clientele, as they complement each other. If you are improving the length and volume of the eyelashes it makes sense to also improve the shape and volume of the eyebrows.

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Teresa Russo Salon owner, South Australia We also spoke to Teresa Russo who is the owner of Visible Changes – a salon that offers advanced technologies and treatments and specialises in skin improvement. Teresa is an astute businesswoman and she saw the opportunity to expand her business.

APJ Q4: What training is involved in perfecting the skill of eyebrow artistry?

“While we have a strong focus on skin improvement,” Teresa points out, “You know what? I noticed that we were now losing business with the younger and image-conscious Y-Gens, and I knew I needed to do something about it. Every business needs to take a step back from time-to-time and evaluate what is happening out there. What are consumers wanting and where is the growth in trends and consumer demand? I acknowledge that while we are seeing a growing need for clients who are seeking results with their treatments, the trend towards grooming modalities is also on the rise as new and better products are being developed, and one change we identified is the growth in lash and brow services.

A good eyebrow technician will need to really master the art of getting the correct shape and balance for the individual, as well as master the

Times are changing and the one-stop shop didn't really work for us as

In comparison to lash extensions, brow extensions are very different.

These hairs are very, very light, and as for the adhesive, it is very thin with a different viscosity. It’s amazing, but the new technology in product formulations is very advanced. This adhesive is very thin and undetectable. However, there is an art and a skill to getting them right and correct training is crucial to get the right finish and longevity.

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today's astute consumer is looking for ‘specialists’. However, there is no reason why a business cannot stay true to the specialist concept while introducing new services in a different way, and so we decided to introduce something different. We decided to launch within our salon a new innovation – “Show Off Lash and Brow Boutique” – a designated area that specialises in creating amazing lash and brows as ‘specialised’ services.”

“The results have been amazing and this initiative has resulted in increasing our revenue by $3000 per week. This has been an amazing investment for both our clients and the business,” Teresa said with excitement,“and we are delighted”.

Regular Brow Sleek Brow

No make-up involved No pencils, stencils, powders or fibres

“Furthermore, we are attracting a new clientele that we are also introducing to our other services. I guess it's about evolving and re-introducing grooming services in a new way that better suits the current client expectation and allows us to continue to grow our business,” she said.

If you would like to speak to Teresa Russo you can contact her on: ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Our new, revolutionary 3D Brow Building will allow you to re-construct your clients’ eyebrows completely.

This is the most effective, non-invasive eyebrow treatment available

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T: (07)5576 6388 E: info@sleekbrows.com.au W: www.sleekbrows.com.au

E: teresa@visiblechanges.com.au Ph: 08 8223 7633.

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If you would like to speak to Otto Mitter about introducing this service in your business please contact: Ex-Imports Niche Products Ph: 07 5576 6388 Mobile: 0438 359 171 E: otto@eximport.com.au

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TAX HELP Getting your Business off to a Great Start Travis Deane – Corporate PR & Communications – Australian Tax Office There are risks you can avoid when starting a new business; good planning, particularly around administration, often contributes to success. So it makes sense to streamline as much of your reporting obligations as possible.

The ATO has developed a range of tools, services and resources for start-ups, making it as efficient and simple as possible for you to meet your tax obligations so the majority of your time is spent growing your business.

Registering for an AUSkey will give you access to online services like the Business Portal, where you can view your account information, lodge activity statements and other reports, and update business registration details.

AUSkey also allows you to lodge to the ATO and other government agencies through your electronic record-keeping and business software that is Standard Business Reporting (SBR) enabled. Your time and costs are reduced, because reporting requirements are met directly from your accounting system. SBR-enabled software lets you lodge activity statements, FBT returns and PAYG summaries.

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When it comes to lodging your tax return online, most small businesses lodge through their tax agents, but sole traders or partners in a partnership can use e-tax, which is free, convenient and secure.

Keeping good records is vital to your business' health and it's also a legal requirement. The ATO's record-keeping evaluation tool details the records your business needs to keep.

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THE ATO ALSO OFFERS SEVERAL OTHER TOOLS TAILORED TO SUPPORT SMALL BUSINESS.

Type a question into the interactive online tool Small business assist and it will provide tailored information from a range of websites 24/7.

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You can also book an after-hours call back to happen between 6.00pm -9.00pm weekdays to discuss your tax queries.

Subscribe to the latest news articles, videos and add important tax dates to your calendar via the Small business newsroom. Save paper and choose to stop receiving general ATO mail and read the information in the newsroom instead.

VIDEO: ‘START-UPS AND THE ATO’ This video explains how start-ups can take advantage of the ATO's online services and support tools. http://youtube/OTo0lpUqR1Y?list=PL5-ESUNqwsMTq7W2DjILs-mDoHQhvmZB We also conduct regular free online tax basics webinars and workshops on record keeping and employer responsibilities, delivered by experienced tax officers. If you can't attend a live webinar, download a recording or access the transcript.

If you have any queries or would like further information about specific tax and superannuation topics for your members please contact Travis Deane, Community Relations; Email: CommunityRelations@ato.gov.au

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APAN NEW STRATEGIC PARTNER: To assist members with their record keeping and tax obligations APAN is currently liaising with a very competent bookkeeping company that will be available to provide complete bookkeeping services to APAN MEMBERS in every State. This service will be launched in May this year.

If you would like to be contacted regarding this please email: info@apanetwork.com and state your name and phone number and someone will contact you to discuss this further.

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National LCMC

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delivers another successful conference in Melbourne

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Reported by Terry Everitt

The 10th annual National Laser & Cosmetic Medicine Conference (LCMC) was held at the Sofitel Hotel in Melbourne, 15-16th November. This conference, while not the biggest in the subject area, makes up for size with a line-up of top speakers and an amalgam of vendors.

This conference (generally referred to as the LCMC) is hosted by the Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine, and as the name indicates, is primarily around laser and cosmetic medicine.

Dr Sharron Phillipson, the conference convenor, opened the

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conference on the Saturday morning and then it was straight into the seminars. Almost 30 different subjects, delivered by a host of speakers, ensued over the two days.

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Both days started with the plenary sessions, held in the morning, and then after lunch two streams of seminars were delivered – intermediate and advanced.

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It is always difficult in determining the length of time given to the individual sessions and speakers – if too much time is given, this limits the total subject matter of conference seminar content; although it does give time to provide more depth of information. On the other hand, giving a short time-frame for each speaker limits the amount of information given in the time allocation, yet provides for a greater coverage of different topics. Compared to other conferences, I think LCMC has done well in this balancing act.

LCMC for the first time had panel discussions where the speakers of the session came together for open questions from the floor. This allowed more detail of specific subject matter. In the main this worked well and I am sure we still see this aspect of the conference return next year.

COSMETIC MEDICINE FEATURES AN ALL-TIME HIGH The 2014 conference seminars were more numerous in the cosmetic medicine area (19 seminars) than laser (6 seminars). If there was a subject matter 'theme' it would have to be radio-frequency (6 seminars). The use of RF is now common, yet these seminars focused around RF and micro-needling, multiphased control, acne therapy and other specifics were well covered.

Perhaps the most important event at the conference was the Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine (ACAM) convocation. This is essentially a graduation ceremony where the graduates are introduced and welcomed as Fellows to the Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine. In full red-trim gowns and mortars, the 17 doctors were presented and received their 'Fellowship' certification.

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ACAM is proactive in education, having three main educational programs for doctors along with a number of individual seminars. Their Diploma program is a year-long, requiring a number of sessions plus log-booked cosmetic treatments undertaken. Moving on from the Diploma is the Registrar program, with an additional 18 months of supervised clinical tuition, and finally another post Fellow program is a certification program that awards a Certificate of Procedural Phlebology.

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The conference concentrates on non-surgical external medicine and treatment modalities, bringing the latest information; the exhibitors provided a host of equipment and services to complement the seminar program.

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LECTURE HIGHLIGHTS Some of the highlights from the seminars included a serious topic delivered with great humour by Professor Stephan Lee, a Clinical Professor of Dermatology from the University of Sydney. The topic, ‘Dermatologically induced disfigurement’.

This was not about dermatology mistakes causing disfigurement; rather the psychological effects that skin disorders have on the patient.

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Dr Adrian Lim, a dermatologist in Sydney, gave a great lecture on using Botulinum in the mid and lower face, emphasising the importance of knowing the anatomy and the exact placement in the muscle to increase effectiveness while decreasing unwanted effects. While the use of Botulinum toxic for the upper face has been the biggest single treatment in cosmetic medicine, much is becoming apparent that the substance can be used all over the face and throat area; using much less than you would think. The reshaping of the orbicularis oris or the masseter with small amounts (0.5 1u) provides remarkable results.

Dr Yoram Harth from Israel introduced advances in radiofrequency micro-needling technology. The change in using non-insulated needles rather than insulated proves to be much better for effect. Fully tapered needles to 1270 microns provide much less damage to the epidermis, along with a 25-needle pattern being preferred for increased effectiveness as opposed to the 49 square-needle pattern, resulting in less overlap with increased volumetric heat to stimulate the dermal cellular functioning.

Another interesting aspect was that the multi electrode may not be necessary – what matters more is the generation of heat. The epidermis and subcutaneous levels has a higher resistance than the dermis, therefore RF would be more effective in the lower resistance area – the dermis. Generally with the latest technology you only need to have one pass with a slight change in (around 45 degrees) orientation to have a 50% overlap with the second pass.

While not the biggest medical convention around, LCMC continues to build and the conferences get better and bigger each year. While the conference is for those doctors in or wanting to be in cosmetic medicine, it would not be beyond the professional skincare practitioner. .

The 2015 Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference moves to the Marriott Resort Surfers Paradise, Queensland, 14-15th November.

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http://www.dcconferences.com.au/lcmc2015 㜵

is the website for information on the 11th National LCMC

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ANXIETY – The 21

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Century Disorder RESEARCH FINDINGS on AROMATHERAPY

By Tina Viney As aesthetic practices are becoming more and more scientific and clinical in their approach, so the need to review underlying causes of skin conditions is becoming standard protocol. While you may feel that treating psychological conditions is outside of the scope of your treatment perimeters, there are still safe and simple solutions that you can use that offer credible support and can assist in improving not only you client's skincare results, but indeed their overall wellbeing.

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Aromatherapy is the use of essential oils to support physical health and psychological wellbeing. Essential oils carry biologically active, volatile compounds of flowers and plants in a highly concentrated form. They are, in many ways, the essence of the plant and can provide therapeutic benefits in very small amounts.

Aromatherapy has a wonderful ability to assist a person who is coping with psychological issues – anything from depression and anxiety to

poor memory. It's exciting to think that something as noninvasive as a natural fragrance can have such a powerful effect on our thoughts and even our actions and emotions.

While in the past aromatherapy was considered nothing more than folklore, ongoing scientific research is validating the effectiveness of pure, unadulterated essential oils in the treatment of various ailments.

For the purpose of this article we will look at some interesting findings in assisting mood disorders, and in particular anxiety and depression.

MOOD DISORDERS AN EPIDEMIC In the US alone it is estimated that for over 40 million adults, feelings of anxiety may occur even when there's no real threat, causing unnecessary stress and emotional pain.

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Unfortunately, most people who suffer with anxiety either do nothing or resort to pharmaceutical drugs – many of which are ineffective and capable of destroying your health and sanity further. According to Dr Marcola, commonly prescribed drugs include benzodiazepine drugs like Ativan, Xanax and Valium.

In his opinion, many of these anti-anxiety drugs exert a calming effect by boosting the action of a neurotransmitter called gammaaminobutyric acid (GABA) in the same way as opioids (heroin) and cannabinoids (cannabis) do.

This in turn activates the gratification hormone, dopamine, in your brain. Since the identical brain "reward pathways" are used by both types of drugs, they can be equally addictive and also may cause side effects like memory loss, hip fractures, impaired thinking and dizziness.

Ironically, the symptoms of withdrawal from many of these anxiety medications include extreme states of anxiety – some of which are far worse than the original symptoms that justified treatment in the first place. Clearly a safe, natural alternative for treating anxiety is needed, and aromatherapy may be one such option worth trying.

RECENT RESEARCH IDENTIFIES THE BENEFIT OF CERTAIN CITRUS ESSENTIAL OILS ON ANXIETY

placebo for 10 weeks. Those who were in the treatment group had a reduction in their anxiety, slept better, and did not have any unwanted side-effects compared to those receiving the placebo.

Lorazepam (Ativan) is a common medication prescribed to treat anxiety. In one study, adults with generalized anxiety disorder were randomised to receive lorazepam or silexan. At the end of the sixweek period, silexan was as effective as lorazepam in reducing anxiety symptoms. Again, silexan does not appear to have any sideeffects and, unlike lorazepam, it does not have the potential for abuse.

For further research on this topic visit:

http://www.med.nyu.edu/content?ChunkIID=37427

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FURTHER RESEARCH ON AROMATHERAPY TO OVERCOME ANXIETY AND MOOD DISORDERS A University of Arizona researcher, Gary Schwartz, M.D., found that our sense of smell has a direct effect on the part of our brain that controls fear and anxiety. He conducted research on the sense of smell and its impact on people who were tense. He found that people were more relaxed, their blood pressure went down and their heart rate reduced when they sniffed an apple. The effect was even more pronounced when cloves and cinnamon were added to the scent of the apple.

A systematic review of 16 randomised controlled trials examining the anxiolytic (anxiety-inhibiting) effects of aromatherapy among people with anxiety symptoms showed that most of the studies indicated positive effects to quell anxiety (and no adverse events were reported).2 People exposed to bergamot essential oil aromatherapy prior to surgery had a greater reduction in pre-operative anxiety than those in control groups.

Sweet orange oil has been found to have anxiety-inhibiting effects in humans, supporting its common use as a tranquiliser by aromatherapists.4 Ambient odours of orange and lavender reduced anxiety and improved mood in patients waiting for dental treatment.

Compared to the controls, women who were exposed to orange odour in a dental office had a lower level of anxiety, a more positive mood and a higher level of calmness. Researchers concluded, “exposure to ambient odour of orange has a relaxant effect”.

In another trial, researchers assessed the anxiety level in 340 dental patients while they were waiting for their appointment. Those that inhaled the scent of lavender showed lower levels of anxiety compared to the control group. In another study, 150 patients were randomised to one of three treatment groups: control (standard care), standard care plus lavender, or sham (standard care plus another kind of oil). Those that were in the lavender group did experience a reduction in their level of anxiety. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Silexan is a capsule that contains a preparation of lavender oil. Two hundred and twenty-one adults diagnosed with having an anxiety disorder were randomised to receive 80 mg a day of silexan or

Herbalists and doctors have long used scents and fragrances to help patients who are suffering with anxiety. A 13th century Persian physician, Al-Samarqandi, suggested that his patients sniff violets to overcome migraine headaches. Paolo Rovesti, M.D., director of the Instituto Derivati Vegetali in Milan, Italy, used fragrances to this effect on his patients in the 1970s and 1980s. The fragrances he chose were the same ones that perfumers would describe as being “herbal” or “green”, such as rose, cypress , lavender, violet leaf and marjoram.

Marjoram has been used through the centuries to help alleviate feelings of anxiety. Greek and Roman texts state that marjoram “strengthens” the emotions. John Gerard, a 16th century herbalist, recommended that his patients “given, to much sighing” sniff marjoram. Herbalists often use marjoram to treat specific states of anxiety such as loneliness, grief and rejection.

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J.J. King, M.D., a psychiatrist at the Smallwood Day Hospital in Redditch, Worcestershire, England, has used scents combined with relaxation techniques. Once his patient has learnt to associate a certain scent with relaxation, they can then use that scent to experience relaxation at any time with a simple sniff. Scents he used to help his patients control anxiety included rose, cedarwood, fir, bergamot and lavender.

COMBINE THE FOLLOWING: Anti-Anxiety Blend

AROMATHERAPY TO OVERCOME DEPRESSION

Anti-Grief Blend

According to research completed by psychologist Steve Van Toler, PhD and biochemist George H. Dodd, PhD, at the Warwick Olfaction Research Group in England, the effect that fragrance has on the brain is similar to that of some antidepressant drugs. Wouldn't it be wonderful if something as simple as an aromatherapy prescription could treat depression, anxiety and other emotional issues?

Whether it's the loss of a loved one, a pet or a job, it is not unusual to find someone who is having to deal with sorrow and grief from time to time. Here is a mixture that can help: 100mls sweet almond oil 10 drops marjoram essential oil 5 drops clary sage essential oil 5 drops rosemary essential oil 1 drop lemon essential oil

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100mls sweet almond oil 10 drops lavender essential oil 10 drops orange essential oil 2 drops marjoram essential oil 2 drops cedarwood essential oil

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This technique has actually been used experimentally at a convalescent clinic in Baku, Azerbaijan. At this clinic a prescription to spend 10 minutes two times a week in a special sunroom sniffing plants would be dispensed. One such plant used in the “sniffing room” was the rose geranium, which was used to combat insomnia and headaches caused by worry and depression.

Depression limits the quality of life for millions of people daily. The scents provided by an orange tree might be the answer to the problem of depression. Even something as simple as peeling an orange, which releases the essential oil into the air can be a quick pick me up. Orange essential oil, which is produced from the orange peel, is easy to acquire and inexpensive. Severe depression may respond to the use of neroli essential oil, which is produced from the orange blossom, or its less expensive cousin, petitgrain, which comes from the stem behind the orange blossom.

Dr. Paolo Rovesti, M.D. has successfully used essential oils such as bergamot, jasmine, orange, sandalwood, ylang-ylang, lemon and lemon verbena to treat depression. He described their effect: “Patients feel as if transported by the perfume of the essential oil into a different, more agreeable and acceptable world, so that many of their reactive instincts are curbed and they gradually return towards normality.”

Fragrances and scents have been used for centuries by European herbalists to treat and control depression. European herbalists in the 16th and 17th centuries used lemon balm and clary sage to treat the symptoms of depression, paranoia and mental fatigue. John Gerard, a 16th century herbalist, recommended sniffing lemon balm to “gladden the heart” and basil to “taketh away sorrowfulness”.

CREATING USEFUL BLENDS

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Below are a few simple blends that can b used in the salon or who for various mood conditions. After blending, store in a small, dark bottle, open and apply a few drops to the palms of the hands, cup the palms in front of the individual's nose and ask them to inhale through slow, but deep breaths when needed. They can also be applied to the temples.

These blends can also be included in a bath to induce relaxation. It is best to apply the oil blend to the chest of the individual before they enter the bath.

Both the anti-anxiety recipe and the anti-grief recipe can also be used as a bath oil to create a relaxing and comforting bathing experience.

Antidepressant Blend The following blend can assist with feelings of sadness and/or depression: 100mls sweet almond oil 10 drops bergamot essential oil 10 drops petitgrain essential oil 3 drops rose geranium 1 drop neroli For children consider replacing the petitgrain with grapefruit or tangerine essential oils, as they are more appealing to children.

In summary, if you find yourself or others overcome with feelings of anxiety or depression, consider the use of these essential oil blends as part of your treatment plan. Essential oils can be used independently as a natural treatment or as a complementary therapy to conventional medicine.

REFERENCES http://www.undergroundhealth.com/using-aromatherapy-toovercome-anxiety-and-depression/#sthash.bf94fYjj.dpuf NutritionFacts.org February 19, 2014 National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy, Exploring Aromatherapy J Altern Complement Med. 2011 Feb;17(2):101-8.

Evid Based Complement Alternat Med. 2013;2013:927419.

J Altern Complement Med. 2012 Aug;18(8):798-804.

Physiol Behav. 2005 Sep 15;86(1-2):92-5.

Physiol Behav. 2000 Oct 1-15;71(1-2):83-6.

Nat Prod Commun. 2009 Sep;4(9):1305-16.

J Ethnopharmacol. 2013 May 20;147(2):412-8.

Behav Brain Res. 2006 Sep 25;172(2):240-9 National Cancer Institute, Aromatherapy and Essential Oils J Perianesth Nurs. 2014 Feb;29(1):5-11.

Complement Ther Clin Pract. 2014 Feb;20(1):1-4.

Brain Behav Immun. 2011 Nov;25(8):1725-34.

Frontiers in Psychiatry January 25, 2013 [Epub ahead of print]

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THREE FACTORS TO DETERMINE HOW RESTORATIVE YOUR SLEEP IS

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There are many reasons why you might not sleep well through the night or get enough sleep. Here are three key considerations: 1.

Sunlight: The most common culprits are not getting enough natural sunlight during the day, combined with too much artificial light well into the evening.

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The role of SLEEP in BEAUTY and HEALTH

By Tina Viney Depriving your body of sleep can lead to some very serious and surprisingly health effects, including widespread pain, which is a primary feature of fibromyalgia.

According to recent research from Great Britain, poor or insufficient sleep was actually the strongest predictor for pain in adults over 50.

Other predictors for widespread pain included anxiety, poor physical health, cognitive problems and osteoarthritis, senior author Ross Wilkie told Reuters Health.1 In older adults, widespread pain, that is pain that affects multiple sites in the body, is common and is associated with morbidity and disability including poor mental health and reduced physical functioning. Nonrestorative sleep was the strongest predictor of new onset widespread pain, the report said.

Poor sleep can actually impact virtually every aspect of your health, and the reason for this is because your circadian rhythm (sleep-wake cycle) actually "drives" the rhythms of biological activity at the cellular level.

Hence disruptions tend to cascade outward throughout your entire body. For example, besides making you more susceptible to physical aches and pains, interrupted or impaired sleep can also:

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Contribute to premature ageing by interfering with your growth hormone Increase your risk of heart disease and cancer Harm your brain by halting new neuron production. Sleep deprivation can increase levels of corticosterone (a stress hormone), resulting in fewer new brain cells being created in your hippocampus Contribute to a pre-diabetic state, making you feel hungry even if you've already eaten, which can lead to weight-gain production, normally released by your pituitary gland during deep sleep (and during certain types of exercise, such as high-intensity interval training) Increase your risk of dying from any cause

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Bedroom temperature:

Something as simple as keeping your bedroom too warm is another frequent mistake that can lead to tossing and turning.

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Overweight: The issue of being overweight is another consideration, which increases your risk of sleep disorders such as sleep apnoea.

Dr Dan Pardi is a researcher at the Behavioral Sciences Department at Stanford University and the Department of Neurology and Endocrinology at Leiden University in the Netherlands. According

to Dr Pardi, the following three factors are important to determining how restorative your sleep is: 1. Duration: The number of hours you sleep. Sleep requirements are highly individual, and can change from one day to the next, depending on factors like stress, physical exertion, illness and pregnancy, just to name a few. But, on average, most people need about eight hours of sleep per night.

2. Timing: The habit of going to bed at approximately the same time each night. Even if the duration of sleep is the same, when the timing of your sleep is shifted it's not going to be as restorative.

3. Intensity: This has to do with the different stages that your brain and body goes through over the course of the night, the sequence of them, and how those stages are linked.

Some medications will suppress certain phases of sleep, and certain conditions like sleep apnoea will lead to fragmented sleep. With these scenarios, even if you're sleeping for an adequate duration and have consistent timing, your sleep will not be as restorative.

One of the easiest ways to gauge whether you've slept enough is to assess your level of sleepiness the next day. For example, if you had the opportunity, would you be able to take a nap? Do you need caffeine to keep you going? Answering yes to these two questions would indicate you need more and/or better sleep.

THE IMPORTANCE OF GETTING BRIGHT LIGHT DURING THE DAY Experts agree that the major part of why so many people are sleeping so poorly is linked to modern-day living, which keeps you indoors for the greater part of the day, and allows you to spend long evenings in brightly lit rooms. The natural cycle of light and darkness plays a critical role in your waking/sleep cycle, and deviating from this natural rhythm can have serious health ramifications.

Studies have shown that poor lighting in the workplace triggers headaches, stress, fatigue and strained watery eyes, not to mention inferior work production. Conversely, companies that have switched to full-spectrum lights report improved employee morale, greater

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productivity, reduced errors and decreased absenteeism. Some experts even believe that malillumination, or light starvation is to light what malnutrition is to food, and spending the larger portion of each day indoors essentially puts you in a state of "light deficiency".

When full-spectrum light enters your eyes, it not only goes to your visual centres enabling you to see, it also goes to your brain's hypothalamus, where it affects your entire body. Your hypothalamus controls body temperature, hunger and thirst, water balance and blood pressure. It also controls your body's master gland, the pituitary, which secretes many essential hormones, including those that influence your mood.

Light also serves as the major synchroniser of your "master clock".

This master clock is a group of cells in your brain called the suprachiasmatic nuclei (SCN). As a group, these nuclei synchronise to the light-dark cycle of your environment when light enters your eyes.

You also have other biological clocks throughout your body, and those clocks subsequently synchronise to your master clock. In essence,

there are two levels of synchronisations taking place within your body in response to sunlight: 1. Your master clock synchronises with the environment 2. Your other body clocks synchronise with the master clock To maintain healthy "master clock" timing, you want to make sure you're getting bright-light exposure during the day. Many indoor environments simply aren't intense enough to maintain the needed synchronisation. So-called "anchor light" anchors your rhythm, causing it to be less fragile, so that light at night has less of an ability to shift your rhythm. As for how much light exposure you need, Pardi says the first 30-60 minutes of outdoor light exposure creates about 80% of the needed anchoring effect.

as well as skin problems will persist if sleep deprivation continues.

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The skin with its epidermis and dermis layers is considered to be a very sensitive part of the body. Therefore, taking proper care is a must.

When analysing skin conditions seek to also determine the cause of the problem, by looking beyond just the symptoms, and sleep patterns are also worth investigating. If the skin problems are occurring due to any sleep disorder, then it is advisable to recommend your client get medical advice, as there are various treatments for different types of sleep disorders. Always remember that a soft and glowing skin is the result of addressing root causes as well as superficial manifestations that may be contributing to either symptomatic manifestations or perhaps the reason why your treatments results are not as successful as anticipated.

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Here are further causes of sleep depravation that may also assist you in determining the cause of inadequate or disturbed sleep.

NIGHTTIME LIGHT EXPOSURE IS ALSO DETRIMENTAL FOR SLEEP AND HEALTH Just as your body requires bright-light exposure during the day, it requires pitch-blackness at night to function optimally. When you turn on a light at night, you immediately send your brain misinformation about the light-dark cycle. The only thing your brain interprets light to be is "day". Believing daytime has arrived, your biological clock instructs your pineal gland to immediately cease its production of the hormone melatonin – a significant blow to your health, especially if you're ill, as melatonin produces a number of health benefits in terms of your immune system.

In addition, melatonin helps you fall asleep and bestows a feeling of

SLEEP DEPRAVATION AND SKIN HEALTH Sleep deprivation for a short time period can cause little harm to the body. However, chronic sleep deprivation may lead to severe problems to the health and also cause damage to the skin. Moreover, keeping the eyes shut for a short span of time may also make you feel tired throughout the day.

Not receiving sufficient sleep will leave the skin, body and health to suffer. The adverse effects of sleep deprivation show quite evidently on your skin just beneath the eyes. This part of your skin is very fragile. It is the thinner area than any other part of your skin.

Sleep deprivation can also lead to the formation of dark circles, wrinkles, puffy eye bags and fine lines. Some special skin-care treatments and products may alter the adverse effects of lack of sleep.

However, we all know that prevention is better than cure, therefore, when seeing these symptoms check with your client about their sleeping patterns, and please note that the adverse consequences of sleep deprivation are cumulative in nature.

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MODERATE WEIGHT LOSS CAN HELP PREVENT SLEEP APNOEA

If lack of sleep continues for a long time period, it can cause the following problems: ! diabetes ! a weak immune system ! high blood pressure ! depression ! skin disorders

general types of apnea described in the literature: 1. Central sleep apnoea (CSA), which typically relates to your

A complete sleep deprivation can also lead to 'allergic skin responses' in patients already suffering from Allergic Rhinitis. Health problems

diaphragm and chest wall and an inability to properly pull air in the lungs 2. Obstructive sleep apnoea (OSA), which relates to an

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overall comfort and wellbeing, and studies have also confirmed that it has proven to have an impressive array of anti-cancer benefits.

Needless to say, suppressing this essential hormone by excessive light exposure before bedtime is the last thing you want to do if you have trouble sleeping, or struggle with any kind of health problem or illness.

Certain health ailments can certainly affect your quality of sleep.

Sleep apnoea, for example, is a very common problem that can hinder any attempts at getting more restorative sleep. Apnoea is a Greek word that means "breathe." Sleep apnoea is the inability to breathe properly, or the limitation of breath or breathing, during sleep. There are three

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obstruction of your airway that begins in your nose and ends in your lungs

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3. Mixed apnoea is a combination of both

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The condition is closely linked to metabolic health problems such as obesity and type 2 diabetes, and according to recent research even a modest weight reduction can halt the progression of obstructive sleep apnoea. Shedding excess pounds might even cure it, according to this five-year long study. As reported by Medical News Today: "The study focused on the effects of weight loss on OSA [obstructive sleep apnoea] and demonstrated, for the first time, that a sustained weight loss of just 5% was enough to prevent the disease from worsening and even cure it in a long-term follow-up.”

YOU DON'T HAVE TO BE OBESE TO SUFFER FROM SLEEP APNOEA While sleep apnoea is thought to be primarily associated with obesity, many patients diagnosed with sleep apnoea today do not have a weight problem. As it turns out, the shape and size of your mouth, and the positioning of your tongue, can also play a significant role.

According to Dr. Arthur Strauss, a dental physician, our mouths have progressively gotten smaller through the generations due to lack of breastfeeding and poor nutrition. Breastfeeding actually helps expand the size of your child's palate and helps move the jaw further forward – two factors that help prevent sleep apnoea by creating more room for breathing. Diet is also important. Dr. Weston Price's pioneering work showed how diet can affect your entire mouth, not just your teeth.

If your sleep apnoea is related to your tongue or jaw position, specialty trained dentists can design a custom oral appliance to address the issue. These include mandibular repositioning devices, designed to shift your jaw forward, while others help hold your tongue forward without moving your jaw. However, sleep apnoea relief may also be found in the form of speech therapy treatment called oral myofunctional therapy, which helps to re-pattern your oral and facial muscles.

HOW TO IMPROVE YOUR QUALITY OF SLEEP Small adjustments to your daily routine and sleeping area can go a long way to ensure uninterrupted, restful sleep. Here are just a few that you may find useful: ! Get some sun in the morning. Your circadian system needs bright light to reset itself. Ten to 15 minutes of morning sunlight will send a strong message to your internal clock that day has arrived, making it less likely to be confused by weaker light signals during the night.

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Get at least 30 minutes of BRIGHT sun exposure midday.

Remember, your pineal gland produces melatonin roughly in approximation to the contrast of bright sun exposure in the day and complete darkness at night. If you work indoors, make a point to get outdoors for at least a total of 30-60 minutes during the brightest portion of the day.

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Obstructive sleep apnoea consists of the frequent collapse of the airway during sleep, making it difficult to breathe for periods lasting as long as 10 seconds. Those with a severe form of the disorder have at least 30 disruptions per hour. Not only do these breathing disruptions interfere with sleep, leaving you unusually tired the next day, it also reduces the amount of oxygen in your blood, which can impair the function of internal organs and/or exacerbate other health conditions you may have.

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Avoid watching TV or using your computer in the evening, at least an hour or so before going to bed. These devices emit

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blue light, which tricks your brain into thinking it's still daytime.

Normally your brain starts secreting melatonin between 9 and 10 pm, and these devices emit light that may stifle that process.

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Sleep in complete darkness, or as close to it as possible.

Even the slightest bit of light in your bedroom can disrupt your biological clock and your pineal gland's melatonin production.

This means that even the tiny glow from your clock radio could be interfering with your sleep, so cover your alarm clock up at night or get rid of it altogether. The ideal light tone for any clock you keep on all night is a reddish amber, certainly not blue or green.

The red and amber will interfere least with your melatonin production. I also recommend covering your windows with thick drapes or blackout shades if you can afford them. Alternatively, wear an eye mask while you sleep.

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Install a low-wattage yellow, orange or red light bulb if you need a source of light for navigation at night. Light in these bandwidths does not shut down melatonin production in the way that white and blue bandwidth light does. Salt lamps are handy for this purpose.

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Keep the temperature in your bedroom at or below 70 degrees F (21 degrees Celsius). Many people keep their homes and particularly their upstairs bedrooms too warm. Studies show that the optimal room temperature for sleep is quite cool, between 15.5 to 20 C. Keeping your room cooler or hotter can lead to restless sleep.

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Check your bedroom for electro-magnetic fields (EMFs).

These can also disrupt your pineal gland's production of melatonin and serotonin, and may have other negative effects as well. To do this, you need a gauss meter. You can find various models online, starting around $50 to $200. Some experts even recommend pulling your circuit breaker before bed to kill all power in your house.

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Move alarm clocks and other electrical devices away from your head. If these devices must be used, keep them as far away from your bed as possible, preferably at least three feet.

IN CONCLUSION As new information comes to light it is important that we expand our investigative and assessment strategies when assessing skin conditions. The good news is that sometimes the answers we will find will not only help us achieve better skin-treatment outcomes, but possible even help the overall wellbeing and health of our clients.

Furthermore, professional networking and referrals to healthcare professionals for situations that are outside of the scope of your expertise should now become standard practice. This will not only contribute to your good reputation, but also to your clients' respect and trust in your recommendations and ultimately their loyalty.

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REFERENCE CNN March 11, 2014 JAMA Internal Medicine May 28, 2012 SLEEP 2012;35(7):933-940 Science 18 October 2013: 342(6156); 373-377

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APJ 110

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When you want the perfect fit you need an

INDUSTRY SPECIALIST INSURER Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...

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BIOELEMENTS

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forges ahead in 2015 ㈵

NEW CERTIFIED PRACTITIONER PROGRAM

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With an incredible reputation for customised-blended formulations Bioelements is gaining momentum as salons are experiencing increase in client loyalty and business growth.

This year they are stepping up their training program and launching the Bioelements Certified Practitioner Program, giving salons and business owners greater recognition and point-of-difference to achieve continued business recognition and growth. We caught up with their Australian distributors and spoke with Jai Harvey Yin to discuss these exciting new developments.

APJ Q1: As consumers are looking for effective products that can offer best results, the concept of custom-blending is gaining popularity. What do you believe is driving this trend?

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With so many products on the market consumers are often overwhelmed and need direction as to what will best suit them. There is no doubt that the concept that their skincare product will be personalised and custom-blended to meet their specific needs and address their deficiencies at the time of the consultation is something that client absolutely love. Every skin is different. While in the past we could broadly classify skin types, we now have greater knowledge to more accurately diagnose the skin. We also have more advanced actives and delivery systems so that we can offer a more targeted approach to skincare solutions, especially when one is looking for exceptional results.

APJ Q2: Tell us a little about Bioelements’ concept of custom-blending – is it complicated and difficult to implement? Can any product be custom-blended?

No, it is not complicated to custom-blend, but you need to undertake the appropriate training. Our systems have been formulated in such a way in order to allow for custom-blending, but you will need to follow the appropriate protocols.

You shouldn't tamper with any formula and at random add ingredients to it, because in doing so you could disturb the balance of the formula.

Tampering with formulas that are not designed to be customised can expose you to risks, and if something goes wrong it would null and void your insurance. Bioelements was developed with base creams that have actives in them yet allow you to increase actives and add them to the product to further benefit the deficiencies that your client's skin is presenting. These are high-percentage actives and this is why full training is required on how to use them.

APJ Q3: What sort of training do you offer therapists?

To use Bioelements effectively and to its full potential you will need to be thoroughly trained. There are eight classes that you must complete.

These classes include full product knowledge and signature techniques that are unique to Bioelements. These include doublebrush techniques, energy tapping, skin-reading consultation, etc. Our systems are very hands-on and personalised. You are then taught about the various ingredients and their functions and benefits and the appropriate way to custom-blend every product you use. On completion of the training Graduates become a Bioelements Certified Practitioner in custom-blending.

Our training includes a full skin-assessment consultation. Once deficiencies are identified they are classified in terms of priority. The trained therapist then can choose the laboratory ingredients concentrate that will assist in improving or mitigating the problem.

She also has the flexibility to include the actives in the massage cream, mask, exfoliant, treatment creams and take-home products.

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Additionally we provide support by conducting business-building seminars and we also have on-going communication through Google Hangout once a month where 3-4 people can link for a video chat. We discuss common problems, tips on effective use of each product and address any concerns that our clients have. These are on-line seminars for members only, so that they can access on-going information and grow their education, as this is so important. We offer our partners lots of support. We don't just train and leave them.

This year we are excited to also partner with Gay Wardle to conduct a full-day interactive-education day. Gay will go through cell biology and then review each ingredient and discuss how it targets the cells.

This will be a fun, interactive workshop very different to anything she has ever done before. Check out dates and please take advantage of these events as they will be fantastic.

base – A really rich, luscious moisture cream that is fortified with avocado oil, Shea butter and Ginseng extract. This product is also rich in vitamins and mineral because algae is one of the base extracts. We then will add Capillary Antidote to support and improve microcirculation. This extracts contains passionflower and lime, which are rich in bioflavonoids. To soothe the skin we would add Soothing Concentrate that contains linden flower and calendula extract. Linden flower is also known to be rich in plant stem cells to support the epidermis. These actives create an anti-inflammatory effect and strengthen the skin from the effects of environment stress.

These actives can be included in all of the treatment products as well as the take-home products.

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APJ Q4: Can you describe the advantages

Bioelements can offer a salon and what are the competitive advantages of performing Bioelements treatments and stocking the products?

I believe that there is nothing like custom-blending to ensure your clients stay loyal to you. Not only do they get a new level of personal care, but they also gain valuable education and appreciation of the various ingredients that will help transform their skin. Our products not only deliver results, they are also very pleasurable and fabulous to use and clients love them and keep coming back. The skin is not a static tissue. It is a live organ that changes constantly depending on internal and external factors such as weather, stress, toxicity or hormonal activity in the body. These factors ultimately affect skinmoisture levels, lipid levels (secretion of sebaceous glands), blood circulation or inflammation that can affect skin temperature. With Bioelements the therapist has the flexibility to adjust the formula according to the presenting skin manifestations. Let's look at a couple of examples: Case Study A: 40-year-old, with oily skin, surface dehydration and skin sensitivity We will first assess the root cause of the problem and identify the needs and deficiencies and then determine the priorities.

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As dehydration is identified we would recommend our Absolute Moisture base, which is rich in hyaluronic acid and has a time-release delivery system so that hydration can be progressively released. For the oily condition we would add Oil Control Concentrate with the main active being Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, which is one of our cosmeceutical additives that minimises sebum release. As she is 40 we would also add Ergothioneine – one of our cosmeceutical, antiageing actives, which targets post-inflammatory signalling of ageing skin and also helps to brighten the skin. This active also includes peptides to support the skin's collagen integrity and minimise the appearance of lines and wrinkles. To this we would also include Indian Sandalwood essential oil, which is an all-round balancer of the skin and relaxes the mind.

These additives would be included in percentages relevant to the severity of the manifestations, and these may vary from one season to another.

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Case study B: Very dry, sensitive, sun-damaged skin For this skin type and condition we would use Deep Hydration as our

BIOELEMENTS CERTIFIED PRACTITIONER The BIOELEMENTS CERTIFIED PRACTITIONER program is complimentary to qualifying stockist partners, and the units they will need to complete in order to gain this level are: ! Product Knowledge – Both Professional & Retail ! Bioelements Skin Reading ! Bioelements Signature Treatments & Custom-Blend Facial Protocol ! Bioelements Custom-Blend Workshop ! Surface Peeling & Advanced Exfoliation – featuring new Ultra-Detox Chemical Peel ! Pigmentation Nation ! Age Activist – featuring our signature Flaxx C Mask ! Chinese Herbology Facial ! Bioelements Fast Results & Micro-treatments Note: the requirements may change as new products are developed.

We also offer classes in all of the treatment protocols including body wraps, if they need them, but that is not a requirement for the Bioelements Certified Practitioner Program.

If you would like more information on Bioelements or would like to train as a Bioelements Certified Practitioner in custom-blending please phone: 1300 262 275 www.bioelementsprofessional.com.au

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APJ 113

cosmeticformulations ㄰

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What are the

DOUBLE LETTERS in COSMETICS?

By Tina Viney

If you've set foot in any department store or flicked through any women's magazine lately you will be inundated with a bewildering array of flesh-coloured fluids. The double-letter formulations like BB cream, CC cream, DD creams that have joined tinted moisturisers and standard foundations on the shelves as potential skin-perfecting options. These are now also entering the professional market, so if you are stocking BB Creams (which are the most popular) you still should know what the others are about. What's the difference between them? What do they do and which ones should you use?

Let's start from the beginning and look at how these formulations compare with tinted moisturisers and makeup foundations.

Tinted Moisturiser The name is pretty self-explanatory: These products traditionally give you a bit of colour with an added moisturising benefit. The colour is usually pretty sheer. They are excellent for women who want a touch of colour that still remains unobtrusive to the average viewer. I believe that this category will probably slowly start to disappear. While tinted moisturisers are still on the market and probably still have many fans, I haven't seen a new launch for one in quite a while – the double-letter creams are all the rage now. ㄰

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So if BB and CC creams provide some decent coverage and even skincare benefits, is this the end of traditional foundation as we know it? I believe that consumers will probably question whether they need both. However, many makeup artists still prefer the traditional foundation, because they can offer a more precise cover and colour and can also be custom mixed if one wishes. And this highlights probably the most important difference between all these products: BB/CC creams and tinted moisturisers usually come in only a few shades, while foundations can come in dozens of

colours, ensuring a more exact skin match. Imagine BB and CC creams sort of like a shampoo and conditioner all in one. It doesn't give the exact finish or precision you want, but if you are looking for a product with multi-functionality features then BB and CC creams will fit this category. Multi-functionality is the new consumer demand in products – one product that can deliver many functions moisturise, sun protection, anti-oxidant properties, anti-inflammatory properties, etc.

The BB Cream: Beauty Balm, Blemish Balm The BB cream is what began it all! German dermatologist Christine Schrammek is credited with creating the first BB cream in the 1960s to use on her clients to protect their skin post-procedure.

The BB cream was designed to be a multi-tasking product. It is often marketed as a primer, foundation and moisturiser all-in-one, and in some cases an SPF as well. They usually have a creamy, moisturising texture.

What it does: Offers daily sun protection, extra hydration, and a touch more coverage than a tinted moisturiser. Because they don't have a high concentration of anti-ageing ingredients, use them as a supplement – not in place of – your other anti-ageing creams or serums.

Depending on the features of the formulation, a BB cream may be used alone if the skin is oily. If the skin type is normal to dry, it can be used over a serum and moisturiser (and SPF if the product does not contain it).

BB creams can also be used on skin that is problematic; some BB creams have ingredients that assist in treating acne or enhancing dull or dehydrated skins. The BB cream took off and became extremely popular in Asia in the mid 1980s before creating excitement in the U.S.

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The CC Cream: Color Corrective, Complexion Correcting The CC cream was created as an adaptation of the BB cream, although the differences are slight and there is no technical definition. CC creams also incorporate many different functions like SPF, antioxidant, primer, foundation, etc and I have found them to offer more foundation cover than BB creams.

when it comes to recommending product to consumers. It's very unlikely that someone would have contraindications to an alphabet cream, as they're meant for just about anyone (with the exception of specific ingredient allergies, or products that contain an ingredient that's too occlusive for oily skin types).

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They often feel a bit more whipped and lighter on the skin than a BB cream, and so prepping the skin with a moisturiser beforehand is important because they are more of a foundation.

As CC creams are normally marketed as having a focus on colour correction, this makes them an ideal product for anyone in their mid to late 20s and up, specifically those with surface pigmentation, sallow skin or redness.

The DD Cream: Daily Defence, Dynamic Do All When the DD cream was originally launched it was promoted as being an effective body-treatment product. It doesn't do much more than its predecessors. However, DD creams usually have a higher SPF and ingredients to protect the skin barrier to prevent moisture loss and balance uneven tone. Originally, DDs were created for dry areas like feet, knees and elbows. Many come with sun protection (SPF 35), light diffusers and olive extract to keep skin hydrated. The DD cream was meant to diminish scars, stretch marks, reduce blemishes and generally serve as a moisturiser , but somehow this made a shift.

In recent times the DD cream has since been marketed for its ability to disguise and diminish imperfections as a “dynamic do all” product for the face and an enhancement of one's skincare regime, applied in place of regular skin treatment products, eye creams, moisturisers and even SPF (in some cases).

DD creams are a hybrid, combining anti-ageing, firming, mattifying and nourishing properties with the protective qualities of the BB creams and the colour correction of the CC creams, which makes it the perfect product for those aged 30 and up. The DD cream is meant to just do it all! In essence, it combines the benefits of BB and CC creams. It is the new generation off string that has taken its predecessors with it.

The double-letter creams have literally combined the worlds of skincare and cosmetics to create a simpler solution that gives you a light foundation cover with extra benefits. Yet somehow, this new simplistic “all-in-one” product approach has become much more complicated with its introduction. Lines are blurring as consumers are expecting more out of their makeup than just coverage. Today's beauty buyers are more ingredient savvy and knowledgeable than ever before; modern technology and cosmetics marketing have provided the tools for everyone to better educate themselves. This, in turn, has created a buyer who has much greater awareness of what they are putting on their skin, and higher expectations of it.

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SKINCARE MAKEUP So what about our lovely mineral makeup products, gluten-free product or anti-oxidant rich foundations promoted by several professional skincare companies? In terms of quality these are probably as good if not superior. However, because of the consumer demand and popularity of the double-letter creams, or alphabet creams as they are also known, you will probably find that several professional lines are also launching BB and CC creams. In essence, what matters is that you know three things about your product, the cover capacity of the cream (as a foundation), what other skincare benefits does it offer – antioxidant, hydrating, anti-inflammatory, etc.

What is its SPF? It is also important to remember that if it offers good coverage it may be used sparingly and this may diminish the level of UV protection it delivers to the skin. It may therefore be essential to monitor this and still use an SPF protective cream.

As a professional, the key issue is to know your products, their benefits and capabilities and also how they compare with other products on the market. This knowledge is important whether you stock all these products on not.

THE EE CREAM: Extra Exfoliating, Energy Enhancing, Even Effect, Elemental Emulsion By why stop with DD? Now we have another newcomer – the EE Cream.

The direction of the EE cream has not been established as of yet. Several cosmetic companies have introduced products with this nomenclature, but as with the other categories of double-letter creams there is not yet a technical definition, and so it's difficult to pin down a specific age demographic for this product. It's the perfect formulation for dull, lackluster skin with uneven texture and tone.

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However, here are some recommendations how to use it. Applied directly to skin it works as an ultrasheer skin transformer to give skin a hint of healthy colour and create an overall even effect, minimising the look of dark spots, sun spots, postacne marks, redness and pores. It also delivers a high-level of SPF 30 protection and powerful antioxidants to help prevent sun damage and defend against other environmental assaults that lead to uneven skin tone in the first place. Although the EE cream is the newest of the double-letter family, its inception is already making waves.

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The good news about this new market of doubleletter creams is that they're almost “foolproof”

APJ 115

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TRAVEL and Healthy Skin, Healthy Body

By Tina Viney While the most popular holiday season is traditionally at the end of the year, cheap flights are making travel much more affordable and accessible not just in the holiday season, but also throughout the year. As a skin therapist one of the areas you should also monitor is when and how often your clients may engage in flight travel.

The whole issue of “value added” is about thinking innovatively and outside of the conventional box when determining your clients' needs. One new area that you should consider adding to your client evaluation form is “How often do you engage in flight travel?”

SIMPLE STRATEGIES TO REDUCE SYMPTOMS While embarking on travel to reach an appointed destination and experience of flying can have detrimental effects on both your skin and body. Let's look at both.

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Jet lag is recognised as a physiological phenomenon and can steal precious time of enjoyment when you are on holidays, or even hindering you with getting back to your routine on your return home. Nobody enjoys feeling disoriented, nauseated, tired, and unable to concentrate or sleep. But with a few simple precautions, you can vastly reduce jet lag symptoms and enjoy a smoother transition. Here are some of the symptoms and recommendations you can offer your client as a simple “fact sheet” before their travel.

Have you ever taken a long flight and arrived at your destination feeling weak, tired or generally awful? That's jet lag and it's not just your imagination. It's a genuine physiological phenomenon.

Symptoms of jet lag may include: ! fatigue ! insomnia ! loss of appetite ! disorientation ! reduced concentration

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reduced aerobic fitness reduced anaerobic fitness nausea GI distress joint swelling and stiffness muscle pain and stiffness

Jet lag originates in the nerve cells of the hypothalamus, the region of our brain that regulates temperature, sleep, circadian rhythms, appetite and hunger. This part of the brain evolved long before air travel and it responds slowly to changes in external time and light levels. This conflict between “inner time” and “outer time” is jet lag. In fact, scientists estimate that it'll take you one full day to recover for every hour of time difference. So, if you are travelling long-distance say from Sydney to Los Angeles you can expect about four days before you feel right again. Interestingly, the direction you travel can affect the severity of your jet lag symptoms. Travelling east is more difficult on the body than travelling west. It seems to be easier for our bodies to delay our internal clocks than to speed them up. And yes, even experienced travellers suffer from jet lag.

HERE ARE SOME INTERESTING STATISTICS. A 1994 New Zealand survey of international flight attendants found that while they were accustomed to long-haul travel the noticed the following symptoms:

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90 % suffered from tiredness over the first five days of arrival 94 % experienced a lack of energy and motivation 93 % reported broken sleep, and 70 % had ear, nose or throat problems.

Jet lag's no fun, but luckily, taking a few simple precautions before, during and after you travel can make an enormous difference, helping you recover much more quickly.

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ADJUST YOUR EXPECTATIONS AND MINDSET If you're a frequent traveller, you may enjoy an ultra-modern jet-set life, but in terms of your body, you're still working with old hardware. Accept the fact that if you're crossing several time zones it will play a role in your travel no matter what you do, so plan accordingly. Realise that you may not be at your best for a few days following a long trip, especially if you flew east. Set your expectations appropriately. For example, let's say you are attending a reunion or a family wedding, try to arrive a day or two earlier and give yourself time to make the adjustment so that you can fully enjoy the experience. Along with smart planning, you can dramatically reduce your symptoms with a few adjustments to your nutrition, exercise and supplements. Here are some considerations in preparing for travel:

PRIOR TO TRAVELLING MOVEMENT AND EXERCISE If you're the kind of person who likes an outdoor morning workout, you know that exercise – especially combined with light exposure– can dramatically improve your mood and energy levels at a time of day when many people feel sluggish. Exercise can also affect our circadian rhythms. And when used appropriately, exercise can help to alleviate the symptoms of jet lag. The best kind of exercise is any kind that you can do outdoors during daylight hours.

Light is the most powerful regulator of our internal biological clocks, so we can use light cues to help minimise jet lag. Bright light tells the body it's time to be awake, especially when combined with movement. Another helpful trick is to train at the same time you'd train at home. In other words, if you normally train at 8 a.m. in Sydney and you have traveled to London, do your best to train at 8 a.m. London time, and preferably outside.

Interestingly, training at the same time every day may have little effect on the brain's biological clock. The main benefit seems to be that it helps our muscles and peripheral tissues synchronise with the new time zone. Regardless, training at our usual time does seem to affect various body systems, and it certainly seems to help with jet lag. So far, there's not much research on the best type of exercise to reduce jet lag. But listen to your body and do what feels best. Do what you can, at approximately the same time as your usual routine, and preferably outside.

DIET In a study published in the journal Science in 2008 researchers suggested that fasting for about 16 hours before a long flight may actually help to fend off jet lag. This was as quite a surprise to me as I thought that flying on an empty stomach would contribute to more nausea, but the opposite is true.

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Here's the study in a nutshell: Normally it's light that triggers an internal clock that controls when we eat and sleep. But according to the study, a second clock seems to override the first when the body senses that food is in short supply. So researchers believe we might be able to faster adjust to time zone changes by manipulating this second clock, based on hunger. In essence, if you make your body think it's starving, you'll be able to remain awake and alert until it's dinner time in your new destination, resetting your body's light clock in the process.

However, in terms of food to eat prior to flights the recommendation is to keep it light, healthy and avoid anything that would cause you bloating or gas for obvious reasons.

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SUPPLEMENTATION PYCNOGENOL

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Pycnogenol is a supplement that has been studied for its ability to decrease jet-lag symptoms. When participants took 50 mg of pycnogenol three times per day for seven days, starting two days prior to travel, the average duration of jet-lag symptoms decreased significantly.

A control group suffered for 39.8 hours, while those who supplemented with pycnogenol endured their symptoms for only 18.2 hours.

Researched suggested that the reason is probably because pycnogenol significantly reduced cerebral edema or swelling, as well as edema of the limbs. As a result, those who supplemented with pycnogenol had fewer short-term memory problems, fewer problems with cardiac function and blood pressure, and also reported far less fatigue. Interestingly, pycnogenol supplementation has also been shown to decrease deep-vein thrombosis and superficial-vein thrombosis – common side-effects of long flights, which we will discuss also later in this article. In fact, in one study of people who were at moderate to high risk for such events, pycnogenol decreased the incidence of thrombosis from 5.15% to 0%.

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GINGER AND VITAMIN E If your client is prone to sea or motion sickness ginger is a wonderful supplement. You can get ginger capsules that are great for this.

Additionally, ginger is a blood thinner so it may also offer added protection from clotting or deep-vein thrombosis. Another nutrient to help thin the blood is vitamin E. As it is a fat-soluble vitamin 500IU is usually safe, but if in doubt they will need to check with their doctor.

Vitamin E comes in two forms; d-alpha-tocopherol (natural) and dlalpha-tocopherol (synthetic). The natural form of vitamin E appears to work better in the body and is therefore preferred.

Aspirin is also good as a blood thinner, but in my humble opinion vitamin E is a better choice, because it is also an antioxidant. In fact, taking a good anti-oxidant supplement to boost immunity prior to any travel is well advised.

MELATONIN Melatonin is a hormone secreted by the pineal gland in the brain. One of melatonin's key jobs is controlling the body's circadian rhythm the internal clock that plays an important role in when we fall asleep and when we wake up. Melatonin release is tied to the amount of light you experience. Light suppresses its release. When it gets dark at night and we turn out the lights, melatonin release is stimulated.

Crossing time zones, we may suddenly find ourselves exposed to excessive light when ordinarily it would be our bedtime. Even a threehour time difference can be significant. When this happens our melatonin cycles become disrupted and we experience jet lag until our circadian rhythms adjust to the new environment. That's why melatonin supplements may help. But dose timing is critical. Research suggests that taking melatonin before leaving for a trip makes jet lag symptoms even worse. So wait until you land in the new time zone to supplement; this will significantly reduce jet lag symptoms, improve sleep quality, and increase alertness and recovery.

Since we know that both light exposure and melatonin supplementation can be used to shift the human circadian clock, you might wonder what happens when the two techniques are used together.

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One study combined:

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a gradually advancing sleep schedule (where each participant was wakened one hour earlier each morning for three days), with light exposure upon waking (to simulate morning-light in a new time zone),

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APJ 117

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along with afternoon melatonin (or a placebo, for those in a control group).

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The result was a gradually advancing sleep schedule, morning-light exposure and placebo caused a 1.7 hour per day shift in participants' circadian rhythms. However, when melatonin was added to the regime, participants gained a full hour per day in circadian adjustment, up to 2.6 hours per day.

Of note, 3 mg of melatonin was no more effective than 0.5 mg of melatonin. In other words, a very small amount of melatonin could have powerful effects.

That study and others suggest that if you want to supplement with melatonin to combat jet lag:

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take from 0.5 mg up to 5 mg of melatonin for three nights (or until adjusted); one hour before a normal bedtime; and only after you've reached your travel destination.

In Australia melatonin is considered a prescription-only supplement so your client will need to go to their doctor.

Alternatively, they can get the homoepathic version from a health store.

While it is nice to relax and have a cup of coffee bear in mind that caffeine can also dehydrate you and it may also affect your circadian rhythms.

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MOVEMENT While in-flight try to move as much as possible. Stretching exercises of your legs are important as rotating and stretch your ankles. Just getting up to go for a walk is also helpful. Also make sure that you wear nonrestricting clothing that are comfortable.

On the other hand, if you have a pre-existing circulation condition that may compromise your health on a long flight have a word with your GP. Good quality and effective compression stockings are often of benefit.

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LOWER PRESSURE Although the cabin is pressurised, during the flight the maximum pressure is much lower than you would experience at or near sea level.

It's the equivalent of an altitude of 6,000 to 8,000ft. Tests undertaken to measure this confirmed that subjecting someone to this lower pressure reduced the amount of oxygen absorbed by the blood (a condition known as hypoxia). One effect of this is to leave you listless and perhaps dizzy or faint. There are also concerns that it can increase the likelihood of clotting or deep-vein thrombosis. Lower pressure can also cause pain or discomfort in your ears, which is made worse by a cold, and some people find that it causes their feet and legs to swell.

WHILE TRAVELLING STAY HYDRATED We usually feel most comfortable when the humidity in the air around us is about 40 to 70 per cent. In an aircraft cabin it falls to about 20 per cent. It is unlikely that your body will become seriously dehydrated for this reason alone, but it is common to suffer from dry eyes (which can cause serious problems for contactlens wearers) and a sore or dry throat and nose. This dryness is often uncomfortable, but it might also make you more prone to infections.

The solution is to stay well hydrated by frequently drinking water and, if possible, continue to fast. Be careful with alcohol and carbonated drinks. For many fliers, downing a few cocktails is part of their pre-flight protocol. It helps alleviate fear of flying and serves as a liquid sleeping pill. But researchers say that consuming alcohol before or during a flight should be avoided as it can actually contribute to passengers having trouble falling back asleep once they awaken.

According to Eric Rimm, an associate professor of nutrition at the Harvard School of Public Health, as there's less water in your blood when you're dehydrated, the concentration of alcohol will be slightly higher, leading to quicker intoxication and increased potential for a hangover. Still, many a traveller swears by the preflight or in-flight tipple. However, if having a pre-flight drink is a must for you, counteract the effect of the alcohol by consuming plenty of water.

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As for carbonated drinks, when flying, and especially on a longhaul, it helps to think of yourself as a super athlete, competing against the forces of dehydration, physical pain, rude flight attendants and the smelly guy sitting next to you. As an athlete, you'd never consume a Pepsi during a triathlon, would you? You need to be at your peak, and carbonated beverages are thought to contribute to bloating and cramping, two enemies of the long-haul athlete. Again, we're suggesting that you avoid foods that impede digestion, and that potentially cause distress to you and your fellow passengers. The people at Lufthansa put it succinctly on the company website, which was quite enlightening: "Try to avoid carbonated drinks such as cola because they cause wind and also have a diuretic effect.”

There is little you can do to combat hypoxia, however, swallowing, sucking sweets and yawning all help to "pop" your ears. Removing shoes and avoiding tight clothing will make swelling less uncomfortable.

THE SKIN During air travel it is important to use a rich moisturiser and a lip balm and apply both regularly. A wet face-cloth is also excellent in releasing moisture as the cabin air is very dry and can substantially dehydrate the skin. For long-distance flights it is advisable not to wear makeup so that you can top up your moisturiser regularly. Cleanliness and microbes is another issue. Keep your hands as clean as possible through antibacterial wipes. I also take a good-quality eucaplyptus essential oil and dab some on a tissue to inhale while in-flight. Look also for good essential oil formulas development for minimising airborne infections as these are a great travel item.

However, when preparing your client for a flight there are two other products you should include in their travel kit a – sunblock moisturiser or a sunblock foundation, as well a high quality body lotion. It is also important to determine the climate they will be arriving at and ensure that they have the right skincare products for their face. If they are travelling north to say, Europe, the weather will be very different as we have opposite seasons. You will therefore need to cater for that. This is a great time to introduce your travel packs as they are made at the right quantities that are permitted for taking on board their flight. The limit is 100mls, so remind your clients that anything larger, including their expensive perfumes, will be confiscated.

BLOOD CLOTS AND TRAVEL – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW More than 300 million people travel on long-distance flights (generally more than four hours) each year.1 Blood clots, also called deep-vein thrombosis (DVT), can be a serious risk for some long-distance travellers. Most information about blood clots and long-distance travel comes from information that has been gathered about air travel.

However, anyone travelling more than four hours, whether by air, car, bus, or train, can be at risk for blood clots.

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Blood clots can form in the deep veins (veins below the surface that are not visible through the skin) of your legs during travel because you are sitting still in a confined space for long periods of time. The longer you are immobile, the greater is your risk of developing a blood clot. Many times the blood clot will dissolve on its own. However, a serious health problem can occur when a part of the blood clot breaks off and travels to the lungs, causing a blockage. This is called a pulmonary embolism, and it may be fatal. The good news is there are things you can do to protect your health and reduce your risk of blood clots during a long-distance trip.

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WHAT CAN INCREASE THE RISK OF BLOOD CLOTS Even if you travel a long distance, the risk of developing a blood clot is generally very small. Your level of risk depends on the duration of travel as well as whether you have any other risks for blood clots.

Most people who develop travel-associated blood clots have one or more other risks for blood clots, such as:

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Older age (risk increases after age 40) Obesity (body mass index [BMI] greater than 30kg/m2) Recent surgery or injury (within three months) Use of estrogen-containing contraceptives (for example, birthcontrol pills, rings, patches) Hormone-replacement therapy (medical treatment in which hormones are given to reduce the effects of menopause) Pregnancy and the postpartum period (up to six weeks after childbirth) Previous blood clot or a family history of blood clots Active cancer or recent cancer treatment Limited mobility (for example, a leg cast) Catheter placed in a large vein Varicose veins

The combination of long-distance travel with one or more of these risks may increase the likelihood of developing a blood clot. The more risks you have, the greater your chances of experiencing a blood clot. If you plan on travelling soon, talk with your doctor to learn more about what you can do to protect your health. The most important thing you can do is to learn and recognise the symptoms of blood clots.

RECOGNISE THE SYMPTOMS

4. Anxiety 5. Coughing up blood 6. Lightheadedness or fainting If you have any of these symptoms, seek medical help immediately.

PROTECT YOURSELF AND REDUCE YOUR RISK OF BLOOD CLOTS DURING TRAVEL Here are some suggestions:

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Know what to look for. Be alert to the signs and symptoms of blood clots.

Talk with your doctor if you think you may be at risk for blood clots.

If you have had a previous blood clot, or if a family member has a history of blood clots or an inherited clotting disorder, talk with your doctor to learn more about your individual risks.

Move your legs frequently when on long trips and exercise your calf muscles to improve the flow of blood. If you've been sitting for a long time, take a break to stretch your legs. Extend your legs straight out and flex your ankles (pulling your toes towards you). Some airlines suggest pulling each knee up towards the chest and holding it there with your hands on your lower leg for 15 seconds, and repeat up to 10 times. These types of activities help to improve the flow of blood in your legs.

If you are at risk, talk with your doctor to learn more about how to prevent blood clots. For example, some people may benefit by wearing graduated compression stockings.

If you are on blood thinners, also known as anticoagulants, be sure to follow your doctor's recommendations on medication use.

Deep-vein thrombosis (DVT): About half of people with DVT

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have no symptoms at all. The following are the most common symptoms of DVT that occur in the affected part of the body (usually the leg or arm): 1. Swelling of your leg or arm 2. Pain or tenderness that you can't explain 3. Skin that is warm to the touch 4. Redness of the skin If you have any of these symptoms, contact your doctor as soon as possible.

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Pulmonary Embolism (PE): You can have a PE without any symptoms of a DVT. Symptoms of a PE can include: ㈵

1. Difficulty breathing 2. Faster than normal or irregular heartbeat 3. Chest pain or discomfort, which usually worsens with a deep breath or coughing

CONCLUSION By identifying your client's travel times it will allow you to prepare them with your information and products in a timely manner, for which they will be grateful. If you wish to include some information from this article for a special newsletter, permission is granted. ㄰

When we speak of “added value” this also includes anticipating your client's needs – becoming the trusted professional who is also proactive in identifying the countless ways of supporting them through education and appropriate products and treatments that will meet their various lifestyle requirements.

Ref: Gavish I, Brenner B. Air travel and the risk of thromboembolism. Intern Emerg Med 2011 Apr;6(2):113-6.

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RETINOL – The Cell-to-Cell Communicator

By Tina Viney When it comes to treatment results your assurance should be based on credible foundational ingredients that have proven efficacy through independent scientific studies. One such ingredient that should be in your arsenal when targeting stubborn skin conditions is retinol.

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Simply put, retinol is just another name for vitamin A. Retinol is an extremely effective cell-communicating ingredient, which means it can literally connect to almost any skin cell and tell it to behave like a healthy, younger skin cell. But there's more. Retinol is an antioxidant, and thus can interrupt the free-radical damage process that causes skin to look and act older. This action helps prevent wrinkling and increases collagen production. While some are fearful of retinol for reactive and sensitive skin conditions, when used correctly retinol is effective at managing acne and eczema, as well as improving discolorations and wrinkles from sun damage.

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All of these benefits are why retinol is a reliable ingredient in helping the skin look and act younger! In fact, amazingly retinol can help more than 100 skin issues. It is a true superstar for the skin!

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WHY THE NEED FOR RETINOL

We've known since the 1950s that every time we go out into sunlight we significantly deplete our vitamin A in the skin. The reason why

Vitamin A is starting to feature strongly in skin care in Australia is because Vitamin A is very easily destroyed by UV-A rays. UV-A rays can penetrate right into the dermis. Sunlight causes not only a lower concentration of vitamin A in the skin, but prolonged exposure can also lower the blood levels of vitamin A. In 1935 it was suggested that most of us walk around with a deficiency of vitamin A in the sun-exposed areas of our skin. We need to replenish vitamin A not only after being in blistering hot sunlight, but also on cloudy, even rainy days, because UVA penetrates through clouds! UV-A also penetrates glass windows so we don't even have to go outside to be damaged. UV-A is also generated by fluorescent lights, therefore, one has to apply vitamin A every day to the areas of skin exposed to light, even in temperate climatic regions.

Retinol is therefore an essential ingredient in supporting skin health as well as improving skin texture and appearance. ㄰

RETINOL, RETINOIDS AND TRETINOIN: WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE? Retinol (the entire vitamin A molecule) can be broken down into more potent compounds, which are referred to as retinoids. Although the terms vitamin A, retinol and retinoid often are used interchangeably, each has its own distinctive actions and regulations. For example, some forms of retinol can be used freely in cosmetics, while others (retinoids) can be obtained only by prescription.

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Following are a few points to help clarify the various forms of Vitamin A:

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Retinol is a cosmetic ingredient that any cosmetics company can include in its products. It does not require a prescription.

Other effective forms of cosmetic-grade vitamin A that you'll see in cosmetics include retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate and retinaldehyde, among others.

Retinol is effective because when absorbed into your skin it is broken down and converted into retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is the compound that actually can affect skin cells and their behaviour.

Both the cosmetic forms and the prescription forms of vitamin A can cause irritation, but, as you would expect, the highest risk of irritation is with the prescription forms (retinoids).

You can reduce or eliminate the irritation caused by retinol by using effective skincare products that do not contain irritating ingredients.

Prescription retinoids include retinoic acid (also called tretinoin), the active ingredient in Renova and Retin-A; adapelene, the active ingredient in Differin; and tazarotene, the active ingredient in Tazorac.

All forms of retinol have similar, although not identical, functions and provide truly impressive benefits for skin, which explains their popularity in the world of skincare.

Despite retinol's many benefits, it is important to remember that no single ingredient can take care of all of the skin's complex needs.

For example, despite retinol's superstar status, it does not eliminate the need for a well-formulated sunscreen, for an alpha hydroxy acid or beta hydroxy acid product for exfoliation, for a gentle cleanser, or for a serum or moisturiser loaded with antioxidants, other cellcommunicating ingredients, and skin-identical substances.

Keeping skin healthy and young requires a combination of ingredients and products that work together to give your skin exactly what it needs.

likely to withstand skin injury and ulcer formation along with improved appearance”. This study continued as authority on the subject within the dermatology field after it was conducted.

When asked about the study's significance one scientist remarked, “In the past, everyone believed that retinoids would treat only photo-ageing, or damage from exposure to sun. This is the first systematic, doubleblind study showing that it improves any kind of ageing photoageing as well as natural ageing,” said co-author John J. Voorhees, M.D., the Duncan and Ella Poth Distinguished Professor and chair of the Department of Dermatology at the University of Michigan Medical School. “You can rub it anywhere and it will help to treat the signs of ageing.”

HOW DOES RETINOL WORK? The reason retinol is so effective at preventing skin ageing is because scientific research has clearly demonstrated its benefits. In general, retinol acts as a sort of skin-cell hypnotist, because it attaches to almost any skin cell and convinces it to behave like a younger, healthy skin cell. Retinol also works as an antioxidant, which can prevent free radicals and increase collagen production; it can also reduce existing wrinkles, fight acne, unclog pores, strengthen ageing skin and repair sun-damaged skin. These benefits will give you better facial skin, clear the skin and reduce face lines and wrinkles, as well as fight and prevent ageing skin.

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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW BEFORE CHOOSING A RETINOL PRODUCT The following are some considerations to be aware of before using a product with retinol:

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In one experiment, consisting of elderly (average age of 87) subjects, scientists applied Retinol-based lotion to one arm and non-Retinol lotion on the subject's other arm. After this time concluded, the University of Michigan Medical School dermatologists concluded that Retinol “improves fine wrinkles associated with natural ageing and retinol-treated aged skin is more

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Retinol is a proven cell-communicating ingredient. There are receptor sites on skin cells that can "receive" a message from retinol. The message varies depending on the type of cell, but the follicular keratin cells that are part of the pore lining can become sluggish and build up, causing the pore wall to stretch. Retinol can step in and "tell" these lazy-acting cells to get back to work, doing what they should be doing (and likely were doing, before sun damage caused them to malfunction). The result can be improved pore function which, in time, will lead to enlarged pores going back to their normal size!

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Retinol certainly has a great reputation, but what's important is the fact that these conclusions are based upon scientific, peer-reviewed experimentation.

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WHAT CAN RETINOL DO FOR LARGE PORES?

RESULTS FROM DOUBLE-BLIND STUDIES ㄰

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Along with retinol's proven anti-ageing benefits, topical application can also improve pore function and, in time, pore size! It cannot change the pore size you have due to genetics, but it can reduce the size of pores that have enlarged due to clogging or sun damage. Here is how.

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However, retinol is an essential ingredient and when combined correctly in a treatment protocol can contribute to unsurpassed results. It should also be recommended for homecare use as it will benefit numerous skin conditions.

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Buy retinol products only if they are packaged in opaque containers meant to minimise or block air exposure (no see-through jars), because all forms of vitamin A break down and deteriorate when repeatedly exposed to air or light.

Look for vitamin A listed as retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate or retinyl aldehyde (also called retinal or retinaldehyde). You must see a doctor to get a prescription for retinoids.

Not everyone's skin can tolerate retinol. It may cause irritation, such as redness and flaking, especially for those new to using it.

If irritation occurs, symptoms should subside within a few days as your skin adjusts to regular use. If the symptoms do not subside or worsen, stop using it!

If you are just starting to use retinol, don't apply it daily. Rather, apply every other day and/or mix it with your usual moisturiser before applying. That lets your skin gradually acclimate to it.

Use well-formulated moisturisers or serums and a gentle cleanser and toner to help your skin better tolerate retinol.

Research shows that using a retinol product in conjunction with an AHA exfoliant significantly improves its effectiveness in treating sun-damaged skin.

Exposure to sunlight can make retinol unstable, so it's best to apply it at night.

If you apply retinol during the day, be sure to apply sunscreen or foundation with sunscreen afterward and avoid sun exposure as much as possible.

Another benefit of retinol is it has the ability to increase the thickness and integrity of the outer surface of the skin, the epidermis. The result is a smoother, denser and finer texture to the skin as well as an improvement

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in the appearance of superficial lines and wrinkles. Retinol also appears to have the ability to counteract some of the solar damage inflicted by the sun, although retinol shouldn't be used if you spend time in the sun, since it can increase sun sensitivity.

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A study done on 30 subjects where 0.4% retinol was applied to their arm and a placebo to the other showed improvement in fine wrinkling on the treated area of the arm as well as a reduction in skin roughness. Skin biopsies performed after using retinol showed an increase in the precursors of collagen synthesis.

This would seem to support the benefit of retinol for skin rejuvenation for both face and body.

While vitamin A can also be consumed orally for overall health, it is also required to be applied topically as this will further fortify the skin's resilience, flexibility and overall skin health.

Below are further research findings on the benefits of retinol for various skin conditions: Clears Acne

Shrinks Pores Your pore size is set by your genetics, but retinoids such as retinol can help improve your pore's shape and size, according to Begoun. This may be due in part to its exfoliating, which removes debris that may stretch your pores open.

Topical forms of retinol effectively treat acne, according to the Mayo Clinic. It works by unplugging your follicles and exfoliating your skin cells to keep pores clear. Simultaneously, retinol also helps eliminate bacteria that cause pimples, creating a two-pronged acne-destroying situation.

Precautions

Diminishes Wrinkles

Sensitivity

Retinol creams work as a powerful antioxidant to help "repair skin damage," according to the University of Maryland Medical Center in the US. Research has confirmed evidence that retinol can actually help reverse signs of ageing and rejuvenate the skin's appearance by smoothing fine lines and wrinkles.

Skincare expert Paula Begoun, in her skin health guidebook, Don't Go to the Cosmetics Counter Without Me, says retinol and its derivatives are extremely effective in helping to even skin tone and fade skin discolorations. This may be due to its exfoliating properties, helping to slough off dark cells to reveal lighter skin underneath.

Traditional forms of retinol are highly active and can cause sensitivity, so you will need to follow the manufacturer's recommendation, which often advises administering retinol products in gradation, starting with a small amount and used at night – sometimes on alternative nights.

However, there are now modern forms of retinol such as Skeyndor's new Power Retinol formulation, which has utilised advanced formula innovations to ensure a safer delivery system that bypasses past sensitivity issue.

The good news is that the benefits of retinol are real. This is one ingredient that you will not need to sidestep, because it has strong scientific validation and therefore should be a key ingredient you can trust both for advanced treatment results and for supporting your clients' homecare.

Fewer Side-Effects

REFERENCES

Retinol can be used as an alternative to tretinoin, the latter commonly used in prescription skin treatments. The University of Maryland Medical Center reports that retinol can have the same effects without the negative side-effects associated with tretinoin, such as a burning sensation or scaling of the skin.

The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, May 2009, pages 276281; Journal of the Indian Medical Association, April 2009, pages 219222; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, June 2008, pages 369381; International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2008, pages 175182; Journal of Dermatological Science, May 2008, pages 99107; Archives of Dermatology, May 2007, pages 606612; Clinical Interventions in Aging, December 2006, pages 327348. http://www.ehow.com/facts_4927914_what-benefits-retinol.html

Lightens Discolorations

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When using retinol, it is important to avoid direct sunlight because it promotes cellular repair in the epidermis layer. This causes the formation of younger skin cells that are more prone to sunlight damage. It is suggested to use sunscreen during retinol treatments.

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