APJ Vol 29 2016

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Winter Volume 29. 2016

Winter Issue Volume 29.

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APAN INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9 58 66-71 72-74 76-78 84-89

Heart-2-Heart Sharing Wound-Healing Secrets Tips for Better Business MP Spa and Beauty Product Innovations Aesthetic Industry Bulletin

REGULATIONS, STANDARDS AND EDUCATION 10-13 26-31 46-48 51 62-64 79 90 107

Peptides at the forefront of Anti-ageing Regenerative Medicine Vitamin C under the microscope Know the Law: Who can administer Cosmetic Injectables?

APAN Accredited Topical Anaesthetics Course How well do you know your skincare?

QIP Specialised Health Services Accreditation Program Why the need for Higher recognition and the launch of APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner (R) Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP)

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 42-44 80-83 92-95 96-97 98-102 104-106 110-113 114-115 116-119

Immune-mediated response and its relevance to skin diseases Scientific News Vanilla Oil - Much more than just a food flavouring Overcoming Fatigue in the Workplace Why are sleep troubles more common in women than men?

Think before you ink - are their risks to tattoo removal?

Why is Hyaluronic Acid Gaining Scientific Momentum?

The role of Protein in Weightloss Why Castor Oil is gaining popularity

BUSINESS AND PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 34

Blogging: When and how often you should do it for your clinic 36-37 Are you ready for a Business Boost?

38-40 Introducing our Celebrity Ambassador 52-55 Why leaders lose their way 56-57 Trailblazing Standards for Cosmetic Tattooing 102-103 Your Tax Return Made Easy 108-109 The two important Rs - Return and Retention and the keys to Increasing their Rate 120-121 Deductions from Employee Wages 122 Ask the Insurance Guru 100

SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 50-51 65 124

A5M 10th Anniversary Conference MyFaceMy Body Awards Australasia 2016 APAN Aesthetic Conference Perth 2016

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EDITOR’SNOTE We are officially entered into the winter season. Autumn leaves have dropped and Nature is preparing for a change in landscape and weather. Life never stands still and nor should we.

Winter brings its own challenges when it comes to skin needs, as well as new opportunities. Have you considered updating your treatment recommendations to more specifically address the special skin needs that come with the colder weather – heating and the changing climatic environment?

Seasonal changes also provide an excellent opportunity to contemplate on your own personal and professional development and growth. Are you looking at ways to update your skills, improve your knowledge and advancing your career and business?

If you own your own business you are in a privileged position of establishing your own brand and community as well as possibly providing employment for others. These are admirable achievements and you should be proud of your efforts in creating jobs for others, as well as supporting the Australian economy.

In my capacity as editor and CEO of APAN I take my responsibilities seriously and spend many hours on regular research and study. You are important to us and my goal is to ensure that I provide you with accurate information, quality education and industry intelligence to support you in your career or business endeavours.

From my own experience and from studying the habits of successful people, ongoing learning is a standard hallmark that defines most achievers. In a constantly changing world our survival is often determined not necessarily by major decisions we make, often, seemingly incremental small changes that may appear at first glance as insignificant, collectively contribute to moving us forward, helping us to accommodate progress and ensuring that we are constantly current in what we are offering.

Whether we are looking at updating our services or improving our relationship and the productivity of our staff, maintaining documentation of both our achievements as well as our processes allows us to benchmark and objectively review what is happening in our world. For example, how can you compliment a staff member for reaching or exceeding targets unless you set goals and measure the outcome? Documenting your progress increases your focus and awareness and therefore improves your potential.

Looking back on last year's events and activities that APAN achieved I am energised by how much we were able to accomplish for the industry - from securing government funding for over 75 businesses to improve their staff's qualifications and take advantage of growth opportunities, to launching our Anaesthetics Course, CTARP Registration for Cosmetic Tattooists and our three Aesthetics Conferences, just to name a few. These reviews have allowed us to gain momentum and take courage for further advances and indeed, we are on a roll with some amazing projects in 2016.

This issue of APJ once again has a variety of topics to support you. We have a good mix of science, business and regulations as well as new initiatives you can connect with to help support and make your success just that little bit easier.

We also want to help fuel your passion and love for your profession. This is an amazing industry, with incredible possibilities that allow us to not just make a living, but also change lives for the better. That in itself is enough to get you excited. Be proud of what you do and hopefully this issue of APJ will provide you with some inspiration and food for thought.

Follow Tina on

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APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

AESTHETIC

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Editor Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

Welcome to APJ

Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Shop7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-9812 Print Post Approved [100000257]

Circulation 6900

FRONT COVER STRATPHARMA SWITZERLAND Phone: 1800 567 007 www.stratamed.com For further information see pages 18-20 & 58.

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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Heart-to-Heart A message from the President and CEO By the time this journal is out we would have already staged two conference programs - Brisbane and Sydney, with Perth to be staged in October 23rd.

Launching the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH has been an amazingly exciting project. Our aim was to make it as easy as possible for businesses to take on-board, while maintaining a high standard with our marketing and promotional material so that the information is both uniform and professional.

AND WELLNESS MONTH. Participants must be credible, professional businesses who are committed to high standards and a Code of Ethics. After all we are inviting the public to trust their care in your hands and our own credibility is on the line.

Please note that while the office month for this project is 1-31st October, businesses are choosing to start promoting this initiative in their clinics and salons right now with October being the extra-special month.

UPDATE ON IPL/LASER REGULATIONS This project has involved several expert teams who have come together to bring the various components that will ensure the success of such a project on a national scale. It has indeed been a costly exercise, but we felt it was important to ensure that it was done correctly.

If you and your business have not as yet registered to participate in this project I urge you to make it your priority. You will not only be giving back, but you will also have the potential to benefit from the publicity and double your business.

Marketing that is associated to social responsibility pulls on the heartstrings of many consumers. Everyone wants to belong to a community that is making a difference and working towards making our world a better place. Remember that one in eight women will be touched by breast cancer in their lifetime. This means that this message to help provide support and help to breast cancer sufferers. This is a message that many women can relate to - if not for themselves, then someone they know.

For those businesses who have registered to participate in the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH and taken advantage of this incredible opportunity I want to say THANK YOU. Together we can make a difference, while supporting your business growth.

THE VALUE AND POWER OF COLLABORATIONS As competition rises and marketing becomes costly, it makes sense to engage jointly in bigger projects and take advantage of the publicity. I do understand that businesses want to have their own unique competitive edge however, APAN is not opening the door to anyone to take part in the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN

It has been some time since ARPANSA released the Regulatory Impact Statement (RIS) Draft for public comment with relations to proposed regulations for IPL and Laser for Cosmetic purposes.

We can advise that we have had communication from Dr John Javorniczky, Senior Regulatory Officer from ARPANSA who advised that the process of evaluation is moving forward. Over 260 comments on the RIS were received – some of which were very voluminous. He stated that it was pleasing to have received this many comments, however the collection of the significant points and their subsequently transposing into the comments resolution table is taking some time. ARPANSA is devoting significant resources to this task, but it is still taking time. The public comments on the consultation RIS will be reviewed by the Working Group once the comments resolution table is completed.

At this point the Radiation Health Committee (RHC) the considered the progress of this work and is looking forward to receiving a summary of the responses to the RIS at its next meeting as well as an early draft of a decision RIS. To keep the process moving forward the RHC will be preparing the early draft, based on the comments received, for the RHC’s consideration and decide the next steps for the project.

APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER ® – WHY WE NEED TO TAKE ACTION We are delighted to confirm that we have now secured the Trademark and the Registration approval for APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER® for 10 years and have exclusive rights to this name. The reason that it was essential for APAN to secure the Trademark is that we want this registration to reflect a national standard.

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HOW IS A QUALIFICATION DEFINED IN AUSTRALIA?

There is a secret to winning.

You have to actually go out and do it.

Winning is based on wise decisions followed by actions.

In Australia you cannot issue a "qualification" unless the course you are delivering is registered with the government and delivered through a Registered Training Organisation, or through a high learning institution such a University. The rules for these requirements are set out by the Australian Qualifications Framework (AQF) (see http://www.aqf.edu.au/ for further details).

Denis Waitley

It is my firm belief that in this day and age our industry needs to take responsibility for its own professional identify and credibility and not wait on government departments to dictate these standards through certain regulations, or a lack of regulations that may or may not be in the best interest of the industry.

As someone who specialises in working with government departments in several States, I can assure you this is a lengthy and costly process and to be perfectly honest politics often do get in the way. Furthermore, the process of changing a regulatory position is fraught with a lot of challenges and sometimes it takes years for this to take place. Also, as government parties change hands a previous strategy may be rejected in favour of a new approach. This does always work in protecting an industry.

Fundamentally, the Australian Government prefers that industries adopt a self-regulatory approach. What that means is that an industry body that is interacting and liaising with its members identifies the standards that will best suit, protect and define that profession and establishes appropriate structures and standards that it puts out to its industry inviting them to adopt those standards. This is exactly what APAN is planning to achieve with the new APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER ÂŽ.

S H O U L D W E R E LY O N L I C E N S I N G O R QUALIFICATIONS? What is the difference between a license and a qualification? It is important to understand that governments introduce licenses for the purpose of restricting who can perform certain activity.

There is usually a fee associated as well as a training program that predominantly deals with health and safety issue and not necessarily efficacy.

The AQF is the national policy for regulated qualifications in Australian education and training. It incorporates the qualifications from each education and training sector into a single comprehensive national qualifications framework. The AQF was first introduced in 1995 to underpin the national system of qualifications in Australia encompassing higher education, vocational education and training and schools.

What that means is that if someone is delivering training that does not meet with AQF registration requirement they cannot issue a qualification - i.e. diploma or certificate.

This is where is gets tricky. People who delivering training from standards that are from other countries, whether they are good or not, cannot issue a qualification within Australia. This is important for Australians to understand. If you already have a government approved qualification in a particular modality you can attend post-graduate course to learn different techniques from other overseas trainers, however, you cannot consider that training as a qualification.

The reason that qualifications are important is that ultimately they are the undisputed recognition of standards. They are benchmarked to meet certain standards and usually there is an external body that reviews these standards to ensure they are met. This gives the training status and recognition and allow the graduate to pursue further education and improve their status as a professional.

As competition increases qualification can be used as a valuable tool to improve recognition and consumer respect. APAN is here to guide you to achieve qualification when they are in place.

We are committed to your professional development and on a governance level, we establish initiatives and pursue pathways to strengthen the reputation and the recognition of the profession with both consumers and the medical profession.

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A qualification on the other hand is more comprehensive and covers prerequisites, underpinning knowledge, theory and practical components and addresses safety issues as well as efficacy issues. In other words it just doesn't teach you how to operate safely, but also teaches you have to get the best possible outcomes and results for the procedure you are delivering.

If you are not already a member we invite you to experience the APAN point of difference.

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anti-ageingmedicine

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PEPTIDES at the forefront of Anti-ageing Regenerative Medicine

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by Dr Zac Turner

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Most of us associate the use of peptides with athletic enhancement.

As you may be aware, the Australian Crime Commission (ACC) named peptides as one of the notable substances being used by professional athletes when they produced the report ‘Organised Crime and Drugs in Sport’ because of the way they can enhance performance and advantage one athlete over another, which led to the well-known infamous “darkest day” in Australian sport.

The ACC suspected that “widespread use of peptides has been identified, or is suspected in a number of professional sporting codes”. As a result, in Australia the Therapeutic Goods Administration has moved to restrict the sale of performanceenhancing drugs, issuing new regulations that prevent Australianbased suppliers selling the drugs online without a prescription.

In recent times ‘peptides’ have moved out of the shadows into the regular Australian lexicon and are now used for weight-loss, antiageing and improved wellbeing. They are currently in the spotlight as a valuable "companion" product to support treatment outcomes within our industry, and for this reason we want to present you with a series of educational articles on this important subject.

Since peptides play a crucial role in the fundamental physiological and biochemical functions of life, they have also attracted much attention for their potential therapeutic use. However, anything that can alter our physiology or our biochemical functions requires careful evaluation for their suitability, duration of use and the correct choice of peptide for safety and positive outcomes for the individual who wishes to introduce them as part of their wellness strategies.

They therefore require a medical prescription for their use.

Dr Zac Turner is renowned as a new-generation, multi-skilled medical practitioner who utilises innovative technologies and a variety of disciplines, including injectables and peptides to help individuals achieve a more youthful appearance, better energy levels and improve wellbeing. We were delighted to introduce him as one of our expert speakers at the APAN Aesthetics Conference in Sydney, and for those of you who were not able to attend, in this article he shares with us some educational information on peptides and their use as they relate to the aesthetics industry.

There has been a great deal of discussion in the media around the use of peptides. In my clinic I am asked several times a day by patients whether they can have peptides. The interesting thing about this is that most people who ask for them think of them as simply the latest in the ever-growing market of quick-fix magic potions. When asked by patients and friends for peptides and other weight-augmenting or weight-loss medications, I always ask (and you should ask yourself) what do you want to achieve?

PEPTIDES AND WHAT THEY CAN ACHIEVE Before looking at whether peptides are right for you, let’s look at what they are. Put simply, they are small proteins made up of fewer than 50 amino acids. More so than peptides, certain amino acids have been demonised of late for potentially giving unfair advantage in sports. But as GQ Magazine said, “To brand all peptides evil would be like excommunicating poppies because of the plant’s link to drugs. In fact, in small doses, and within medically approved and prescribed products, peptides can be a lacklustre complexion, body and life’s best friend”.

In the world of health and fitness peptides are used and recommended for increased energy, burning fat, building muscle and improving athletic ability.

If you think of a hormone as a tree made up of many protein branches and even more peptide twigs, it’s easy to see how a hormone can have many side-effects if used wrongly. Peptides on the other hand are much smaller and have been designed to stimulate specific receptors for growth hormone so you can tailor your results. Essentially, they can be used for muscle gain or weight loss and a range of other things.

THE PITUITARY GLAND – THE ORCHESTRATOR To begin with, we need to understand how our body functions.

At the base of our brain rests a small, but import gland called the Pituitary. Despite the fact that the Pituitary Gland is small, it is the control unit that orchestrates the activity of other hormonal glands, for example our Adrenals and Thyroid glands, which play a vital role in controlling many of our bodily functions that contribute to our general wellbeing. In order to keep a sustainable balance in your body, the Pituitary Gland sends signals (through hormones) into the circulatory system to the other organs and glands in your body to control or create their own hormones as needed.

These hormones are keeping your body strong and healthy.

Unfortunately, as we age they will start to decline.

One of the hormones produced by the brain’s Pituitary Gland is Human Growth Hormone (GH or hGH). Human Growth Hormone keeps up body regulation, the digestive system and insulin levels. But what signals the Pituitary Gland? Growth Hormone Releasing Hormone (GHRH), which originates from the Hypothalamus. There are many kinds of peptides, which work on different areas of the body. Specifically, there are peptides that can increase our own body’s production of GHRH from the Hypothalamus to naturally release more hGH. These Amino Acids stimulate our Pituitary Gland to make and excrete more of hGH into the bloodstream. This boost in production will assist in potentially lessening the effects of ageing.

To understand the benefits of anti-ageing it is important to understand the benefits of increased Human Growth Hormone in the body.

HGH acts on many tissues throughout the body. In children and adolescents it stimulates the growth of bone and cartilage. In people of all ages it boosts protein production, promotes the utilisation of fat, interferes with the action of insulin and raises blood sugar levels. GH also raises levels of insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1) which is important in the development of lean muscle and is a key factor in the negative feedback loop that causes decreased natural production and release of hGH from the pituitary when the hypothalamus is made aware of the level of hGH in the body. This means that when there are low levels of HGH the hypothalamus will release stimulators of hGH called GHRHs, and when the levels are high it will work to lower production. This is one of the reasons that you should only take hormones prescribed by a doctor so that you can help prevent the troughs when one stops taking hormones. As peptides work on the GHRH receptors it goes around the negative feedback loop.

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There is ample and robust research evidence supporting the remedial effects of increased Human Growth Hormone. As

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the Ghrelin to indirectly stimulate Growth Hormone production.

Ipamorelin stimulates the release of Ghrelin, also known as the "hunger hormone", a peptide hormone produced by ghrelinergic cells in the gastrointestinal tract. When the stomach is empty, the hormone Ghrelin is secreted. When the stomach is stretched, production of Ghrelin stops. It acts on hypothalamic brain cells both to increase hunger and to increase gastric-acid secretion and gastrointestinal motility to prepare the body for food intake.

Besides regulating appetite, Ghrelin also plays a significant role in regulating the distribution and rate of use of energy. The advantage of Ipamorelin is it mimics positive side-effects of Ghrelin production on the hypothalamus without the increased appetite.

Working together, the combination of CJC-1295 and Ipamorelin are synergistic, triggering a greater release of Growth Hormone into your body. Quicker muscle and bone repair, improved skin, decreased fat stores, fast recovery and deep sleep are all the results of a large release in growth hormone.

discussed by Harvard Men’s Health Watch, some of the benefits include: enjoying protection from fractures, increased muscle mass, decreased body fat, improved exercise capacity and a reduced risk of future heart disease.

AOD-9604

A number of studies have also demonstrated improvements in psychological wellbeing, with specific improvements in energy levels and improved sleep quality (fewer awakenings, increased duration of deep sleep). Moreover, healthcare consumption and sick days decrease in parallel with enhanced psychological wellbeing.

Finally, let’s discuss the peptide AOD-9604. AOD is a 15 amino acid long peptide, which was developed in Australia in the late 1990s. It was initially developed as an 'anti-obesity' drug, hence the acronym AOD. Studies have shown AOD-9604 stimulates lipolysis (the breakdown or destruction of fat) and inhibits lipogenesis (prevents the transformation of fatty food materials into body fat).

“Every man desires to live long,” wrote Jonathan Swift, “but no man wants to be old.” He was right, and the fountain of youth does not need to be an illusion.

THE ROLE OF VARIOUS PEPTIDES There are a number of peptides that have been developed to assist the Pituitary Gland in releasing increased amounts of Growth Hormones. However, in this article I would like to discuss three peptides and what they do. These are CJC-1295, Ipamorelin and AOD-9604.

WHAT IS CJC-1295?

By mimicking what the GHRHs do, the peptide CJC1295 assists the Pituitary Gland in making a bigger “pulse” of growth hormone. The Pituitary Gland normally releases HGH at different times of the day, with the biggest being about an hour after we go to sleep, and the next biggest pulse occurs during our deepest sleep. This is one reason why it is so important that we get regular adequate sleep levels and why there are so many negative health outcomes when this is deprived.

GHRH stimulators help to increase this HGH surge so that we get higher levels of HGH for slightly longer amounts of time.

Along with the releases during sleeping there are also releases throughout the day, although not as large. After the release of HGH the liver is then stimulated to produce Insulin Growth Factor- 1 (IGF-1), which is in nearly every cell in your body and which regulates cell growth and development in such areas as skeletal, muscle, bone, cartilage and the skin. The benefits of CJC-1295 include faster recovery time, enhanced rest quality, increased lean muscle mass, increased vitality and reduced body fat.

IPAMORELIN Ipamorelin is another peptide that is said to be the mildest and steadiest-acting Growth Hormone-releasing peptide that acts on

AOD works by imitating the natural growth hormone that regulates fat metabolism without negatively affecting your blood sugar levels. Additionally, it has been shown to reduce stubborn fat areas such as abdominal fat. Other benefits are increasing muscle mass by increasing IGF-1 positively to metabolise fat and increase the amount of energy burned for the same amount of activity.

AOD-9604 has also been found to have a positive influence on joint tissues and cartilage repair. By increasing cartilage and collagen production in the joints, AOD has been successfully used to treat local pain areas such as osteoarthritis and tendonitis.

IN CONCLUSION Compared to steroids and testosterone with their potential for fast benefits but also side-effects, peptides are not magic beans that will turn you into a super-athlete overnight. Peptides are more of a medium burn for those of us that know that the body we want is one of lifestyle enhancement and that the hours at the gym are also necessary.

Most people, when asked what they think a peptide is, simply don’t care. They’re results-driven, and it doesn’t matter to them that their method of use might be madness. Peptides are not a magic genie that is ready and waiting to quickly enact your heart’s desire. Like most things in life, success takes a little work and any help along the way is appreciated. The right plan and the right peptides, however, can assist and support your body in doing the best things it already does to achieve your desired results.

When asking what you want to put in your body you must always ask whether the benefits outweigh the side-effects. Like any substance that you know nothing about, they should not be

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bought online from unregistered suppliers or borrowed from a friend and then injected (yes, most need to be) or consumed.

They can have great results, but potentially serious side-effects if used incorrectly. You should therefore discuss these issues with your doctor before even considering their use. Many people are making a lot of money from selling these substances.

However, before taking any peptide it is important that you know its function what it does, how long will you need to take it for, how to take it and what side-effects it has so that you have realistic expectations of what it can do for you.

It is true that peptides can help you to burn fat while working, eating, talking and even sleeping, however, they must be combined with other lifestyle factors over several months in order to achieve the best results.

Dr Zac Turner Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background. He has completed studies in philosophy and degrees in Biomedical Science and nursing. After several years of practical nursing experience he moved on to complete a Bachelor of Medicine and Bachelor of Surgery degree at the University of Sydney. His surgical interests include orthopaedics, plastics and reconstructive surgery, and he is very interested and specialises in sports, cosmetic and anti-ageing medicine. Dr Zac believes that continuing education is essential, and as such he not only trains other professionals in cosmetics and preventative medicine, but he also actively seeks out new and innovative treatments, ensuring that he is always at the forefront of new technologies.

Aesthetically, Dr Zac feels that a natural look is best, and truly believes that his 'less-is-more' approach using perfectly placed products gives the optimum outcomes. He doesn't set out to change the way a person looks, but instead aims to give them a fresh and rested appearance, further enhancing their natural beauty. Dr Zac provides in-depth consultations and works with our other experts to ensure that your experience will be enjoyable, and leave you looking and feeling your best.

Over the past few years Dr Zac has also become involved in both the men’s health and in the preventative health space. He is passionate about this as he sees prevention and body optimisation as the ultimate way to prevent chronic disease, obesity, and many other conditions. He has owned and is currently involved with clinics in the holistic health arena and believes that through a holistic assessment of someone’s health we can enable them to live longer, healthier and happier.

We are delighted to introduce Dr Zac as a strategic alliance partner with APAN. His training will allow nurses and doctors who are APAN members to gain from his skills and knowledge the most up-to-date techniques in injectables and peptides. If you would like further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360.

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advancededucation

Introducing a new standard of best practice Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)

EXAMINING ITS POINT OF DIFFERENCE

by Felix Stravens

With consumers seeking better long-term results and more advanced outcomes before committing to one clinic or salon over another, it's essential for practitioners to be aware of the latest technologies and treatment options to competitively position themselves in the marketplace.

Higher education offers the skill-set to critically assess and determine treatment decisions through a more scientifically sound mindset. For established clinicians and practitioners within the industry, additional formalised study can assist in building their confidence to make better choices and achieve a higher standard of treatment outcome for the benefit of their clients and for the survival of their business.

With the launch of the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics), Felix Stravens, Chief Operating Officer of the Australasian College of Health and Wellness, presents insight into this degree's point of difference and how it aims to bring a new standard of professional graduate to the aesthetics industry.

We often receive enquiries from prospective students about our point of difference over other institutions offering qualifications

in the area of dermal therapies and clinical aesthetics. Choosing to undertake further education requires careful consideration and examination of both the course offering and the institute.

Here are some key questions to consider: 1. Qualification: What qualification will you gain at the end of your training?

2. Content: How will the units within that qualification improve your skills and knowledge?

3. Scientific Rigour: How comprehensive is the content?

Are the units well balanced? Are there sufficient hours to allow you to gain depth of knowledge?

4. Scope of practice: Will the qualification extend your current scope of practice?

5. Course endorsement: Who has reviewed and endorsed this qualification?

6. Industry ready: Is the practical aspect of the training adequate to ensure you can immediately and confidently move into additional practices in my profession?

7. Flexible Learning: Does it offer flexibility and options to allow for my work and personal schedule?

8. Point of Difference: What is the point of difference of this

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qualification over other qualifications available that are specific to our industry?

9. Funding Options: Can you gain funding support to undertake this qualification and are there any scholarships that you could apply for?

It's worth asking these questions of any institutions you're considering studying with. The Australasian College of Health and Wellness currently has two qualifications developed to meet the needs of the consumer while elevating the practice and standing of our graduates. Learn more about our offerings below;

QUALIFICATIONS If you wish to advance your skills and knowledge in today's competitive environment where practitioners are competing against the likes of doctors and nurses, a Bachelor's Degree qualification will set you apart.

At the Australasian College of Health and Wellness you have two choices: You can graduate with a Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics), or graduate with an Associate Degree in Dermal Therapy. Both qualifications are tertiary-level qualifications and are classified as higher education.

CONTENT As a student of this degree you can expect to benefit from solid theoretical components as well as comprehensive practical components that will allow you to gain a thorough scientific understanding not just of the skin, but of the human body and beyond, including issues that influence health and wellness.

Units such as Pathophysiology, Practice Management, Differential Diagnosis of Skin Disorders, Advanced Dermal Interventions, Critical Thinking and Search Skills, and Nutrition in Practice will transform the way you think, understand, analyse and make decisions, both in your treatment choices and your dayto-day business management. The course content enables you to develop the skills to assess and compare anecdotal evidence against scientific evidence, across a variety of contexts, including product ranges and technological equipment.

The graduate of this degree will be able to identify underpinning deficiencies that are triggered by stress, hormonal issues and nutritional deficiencies that contribute to compromise treatment outcomes. This level of knowledge is consumer driven; more and more, the public are seeking t h o s e w h o h a v e comprehensive skills in these areas and those who can meet COO Felix Stravens these needs will become the preferred choice of practitioner, gaining the competitive advantage.

SCOPE OF PRACTICE The integration of both tertiary-level theory supported by evidence-based practice will allow the graduate to extend their current services to a much higher level of skin correction, antiageing and wellness outcomes in both skin and body. The level of practicum of this degree is also a very unique feature.

Traditionally, higher education curriculum has a restricted level of practicum. However, as part of this degree students will receive well supervised, comprehensive practicum sessions to ensure that they attain the level of confidence, not just in their theoretical understanding and skills, but also be given the support to translate the theory into practice.

COURSE ENDORSEMENT

It is an established fact that tertiary-level qualifications offer substantially more advanced scope of knowledge than other options. The sheer volume of time and depth of content that is required to complete a university degree vouches for that.

Furthermore, a Bachelor's Degree qualification must provide evidence of rigorous depth of knowledge that meets with the standards as set out by the independent national regulator for the higher education sector – Tertiary Education Quality and Greater depth of knowledge of the pathophysiology of the skin Standards Agency (TEQSA). Our degree has received high ensures better informed choices to achieve the best practice and commendation and has gained a seven-year endorsement by more advanced treatment outcomes and, in turn, increases TEQSA. confidence in interactions with medical practitioners. Additional study can also increase career options, with graduates able to INDUSTRY READY move to a more clinical-based practice and even pursue research Many students who have graduated from advanced diplomas and even degrees still feel they lack confidence in stepping out in the at an academic level. workforce to practice what they have learnt. While the theoretical SCIENTIFIC RIGOUR knowledge may have been sound, a lack of sufficient practicum The Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) has has contributed to this lack of confidence. In reviewing this been carefully developed over a three-year period. feedback, we were determined that our qualification took these Comprehensive research and industry input determined the issues into account and ensured that our graduates would be content of this qualification so as not to just enhance knowledge in confident and industry ready upon their graduation. With over current practices; more importantly, this degree aims to equip a twice as many face-to-face hours than most other institutions, our new breed of practitioner that can best meet the ongoing new degree has been developed to ensure the success and confidence advances that require an integration of not just skin, but also of our graduates. wellness at equally competent levels.

The emerging new consumer expectations will require that practitioners have competence in a broader spectrum of knowledge and scope of practice that include wellness and antiageing, not just for the skin, but for the wellbeing of the individual.

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FLEXIBLE LEARNING Most of our students are already working; having identified the need to advance their knowledge and qualifications, they have enrolled in our degree program while still committed to their work and family life. This is very much part of today's commercial reality and we knew we needed to accommodate the needs of our

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students by providing a modern, flexible, learning environment.

At the Australasian College of Health and Wellness we have v ir tu a l c l a s s r o o m s w h e r e students – regardless as to which State or region they are located – can log in and participate in a live lecture from the comfort of their own home or workplace.

Furthermore, they can talk to other students that are also logged in from other States. It is amazing how modern technology can provide these incredible tools and we are proud to offer the best.

These structures make it much easier for students to engage and learn at a pace and time that best suits them. We believe this is a very critical component of our learning environment that is contributing to the success of our degree programs.

POINT OF DIFFERENCE This degree was not designed to duplicate offerings already in existence, but to bring a new level of excellence in both depth of knowledge, diversity of subject, sufficient face-to-face training and a solid support structure to ensure that the student successfully reaches graduation. We have several points of differences, including; Academic Staff: All our academic staff have tertiary postgraduate training in their areas of specialty, from the basic sciences, to communication and management to clinical aesthetics practice. In addition we have a number of professionals as honorary associates who are active in our teaching program.

They range from cosmetic surgeons, dermatologists and cosmetic chemists. Our senior academic staff comprise of career academics with decades of established university experience in teaching and research.

Scientific Rigour: Our degree programs are grounded in sound physiological principles that underpin teaching in all medical and allied health areas. Over 40% of the total degree is based on pure and applied health science subjects, with the remaining being on health communication and management and clinical aesthetics practice. We believe it is imperative to have a sound understanding of the structure and function of the human body and the physiological principles underlying homeostatic balance; only then can one be an exceptional practitioner.

Practicum: Our comprehensive practicum allows adequate faceto-face supervision more than any other institution to ensure graduates can move confidently into the workforce.

FUNDING SUPPORT/SCHOLARSHIPS Students can apply for FEE Help Funding to assist them in undertaking their degree qualifications with us.

Because we believe in giving back, additionally, this year we would like to offer all financial members of APAN a Scholarship if they wish to undertake any of our degree programs as follows: Associate Degree: For those who wish to undertake the Associate Degree, we're offering them their "final" semester CAPS Module as a Scholarship. This is valued at $3500, which you will receive free of charge. All you need to present is evidence that you are a current member of APAN. Bachelor's Degree: If you are undertaking the Bachelor's Degree we would like to offer you the entire "final" semester as a scholarship valued at $11,000.

It is not uncommon for many to question if they will have what it takes to gain a degree qualification and many consider this pathway with a level of doubt. It is worth, however, exploring all your options and considering the career and financial benefits of pursuing further education. Many of our students are full-time employees or business owners, with work and family Flexibility: Our programs are designed to ensure that our commitments, who have found the decision to undertake the students get the best experience in their training at the highest Bachelor's program has given them a new lease on life and academic standard. We have put together an amazing program reignited their passion for the aesthetics industry. that is differentiated from other degrees currently available in two key areas: If you would like to explore the possibility of undertaking the

Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) or the Associate Degree, call 1800 999 963 to speak to the Head of Faculty, Associate Professor Sinan Ali, email b. Very high academic rigour that is well-supported with highly enquiries@tac.edu.au or visit comprehensive practical units built into the training. www.tac.edu.au/highereducation. a. Complete flexibility for full-time or part time study, local or virtual learning

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MHM

Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)

An accredited qualification in Clinical Aesthetics can equip those with a passion for skin and the aesthetics industry with a comprehensive understanding of health science and clinical management.

Career opportunities are limitless; from treatment and product development, medispa & clinic management, to niche areas within the medical sector, including oncology, paediatrics and burns units.

The Australasian College of Health and Wellness believes in the future and growth of the aesthetics field. Now more than ever the opportunity exists to truly create your ultimate career in an everexpanding industry.

Australasian College of Health and Wellness www.tachw.edu.au • CALL NOW 02 8587 8888 • enquiries@tac.edu.au Building 1, 87 Bay Street Cnr Wentworth Park Road, GLEBE 2037

coverstory

A BREAKTHROUGH IN POST-PROCEDURE CARE

Stratamed is the first film-forming, silicone gel-based wound dressing approved for use on open wounds and compromised skin, including post laser, chemical peels and microneedling.

Patients seeking skin rejuvenation and resurfacing treatments have high expectations. They want fast results and the best overall outcome from their therapy. This includes reducing recovery time so they can return to their daily life with the best possible results in the shortest possible time.

Following the correct treatment and technique, post-procedure care is key to achieving the best result, patient satisfaction and downtime. Wound healing and scar management are particularly critical to patient satisfaction after dermatological intervention such as laser therapy, chemical peels, dermal abrasion, microneedling and tattoo removal. Stratamed, by Swiss-based pharma Stratpharma, is the first gel formula that can be used on open wounds and compromised skin surfaces. Its advanced, flexible, film-forming wound dressing provides faster wound healing and prevents abnormal scar formation.

Stratamed can be applied immediately after cosmetic intervention to promote faster re-epithelialisation and a reduced inflammatory response.

HOW DOES STRATAMED WORK? Stratamed is a breakthrough in post-procedure care and scar therapy. It is designed to accelerate tissue healing and prevent abnormal scar formation. It is the first semi-occlusive, advanced, film-forming silicone gel dressing, which can be applied on compromised skin directly after a procedure or skin trauma.

Stratamed creates an optimal environment for faster wound healing. It helps normalise the inflammatory response and reepithelialise skin on the wound bed.

Once applied, Stratamed dries to form a full-contact, flexible, protective sheet that bonds to the injured skin. Stratamed is bacteriostatic, which means no bacteria can grow on it or in it.

Unlike other fully occlusive topical treatments (for example, petrolatum), Stratamed allows the wound and scar to breathe, while remaining hydrated and protected.

Stratamed does not adhere strongly to the healing tissue, so it can be placed on the wound as the primary dressing. This semiocclusive effect works to protect the wound site, but also helps to improve hydration and expedite healing.

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Clearly effective post-treatment care

During the healing process, Stratamed restores the barrier function of the outer-most epithelial layer – the stratum corneum – and prevents dehydration of the skin. This allows the migration of skin cells across the wound bed for faster recovery.

Key benefits of Stratamed:

HOW TO USE STRATAMED

! Can be used immediately after

Only a small amount is required and each tube is designed to last 90 days.

dermatological interventions, including laser treatment, dermal abrasion, chemical peels and tattoo removal.

! Dries into a full-contact primary dressing over microtextural surface irregularities – excellent soothing effect.3

! First semi-occlusive, self-drying, transparent, silicone wound dressing in a form of gel that can be applied on compromised and non-epithelialised skin.

! Bacteriostatic, gas permeable and inert1,2 ! Creates an optimal environment for faster re-epithelialisation, resulting in reduced downtime.1

! Reduces and normalises the inflammatory response.1

! Hydrates and protects superficial wounds and compromised skin..1

! Does not adhere strongly to the wound bed or the newly formed granulating tissue2

! Improves the visible outcome of the treatment.1

! Provides symptomatic relief (redness/discolouration, itching, discomfort, pain).1

!

Easy to apply with a great safety profile.1

! Speeds up the healing process resulting in

For best results Stratamed should be maintained in continuous contact with the skin (24 hours a day, 7 days a week). When applied correctly to exposed areas, Stratamed should be dry in 5–6 minutes. If it takes longer to dry you have probably applied too much. Gently remove the excess with a clean tissue or gauze and allow the drying process to continue.

Once dry, Stratamed can be covered by sunscreen, cosmetics, pressure garments or casts.

About Stratpharma Swiss company Stratpharma has become Australia’s most trusted provider of solutions for wound healing, scar therapy and stretchmark prevention and treatment with their gel-based products, Stratamed, Strataderm, StrataXRT and Stratamark.

Stratpharma has earnt the trust of Australia’s leading cosmetic medical practitioners, including dermatologists, plastic surgeons, cosmetic surgeons and physicians, and ENT and facial plastic surgeons.

Whether it’s following a major cosmetic surgery such as breast augmentation or facial plastic surgery, minor surgical procedures, laser therapy, dermal abrasion, or the prevention and treatment of stretch marks, the Stratpharma suite of products has become an essential part of wound healing, scar management and stretchmark treatment and prevention protocols.

reduced downtime and improves the visible outcome of the treatment.3

! Immediately decreases post-inflammatory burning sensation by reducing erythema and superficial skin temperature.3

! Leads to a more comfortable postprocedure care and increases user’s adherence to multiple session protocols.3

For more information, visit www.stratamed.com or call 1800 567 007

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References: 1. Sandhofer M, Schauer P. SKINmed 2012;10:S1–S7 2. Monk EC, Benedetto EA, Benedetto AV. Dermatologic Surgery 2014;40;76–79 3. Data on file. Stratpharma AG

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Save the date!

Patients have high expectations following laser procedures. How can you achieve the best results?

Join Dr Leonardo Marini, a key opinion leader in laser therapy and dermatology, as he shares his experience using Stratpharma products for better patient outcomes.

Dr Marini is a board-certified dermatologist and Chairman of the Task Force for Laser Dermatology of the European Academy of Dermatology

Laser resurfacing (acne scars) During treatment and 7 days post-treatment with Stratamed in combination with thermage and CO2 fractional laser resurfacing.

“We observed a faster re-epithelialisation of the wound surface with visible satisfactory results starting as early as 7 days, compared with that we observed with our standard practice.”1

Learn how Stratpharma products: ! reduce recovery time

! promote faster re-epithelialisation and a reduced inflammatory response

! hydrate and protect open wounds and compromised skin

! improve treatment outcomes Perth – 10 Aug Melbourne – 24 Aug Gold Coast – 25 Aug Brisbane – 28 Aug Adelaide – 28 Aug (webinar in conjunction with Brisbane workshop) Sydney – 29 Aug

Rapid healing of chronic wound resulting from surgery after squamous cell carcinoma2 Nonhealing wound before (4 months post-surgery) and 7 days post-treatment with Stratamed (monotherapy).

To reserve your place call 1800 567 007

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Laser resurfcing (wrinkles)1 Before, during and 10 days posttreatment with Stratamed in combination with thermage, Co2 fractional laser resurfacing and Botox.

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skillstraining

A STUDENT'S EXPERIENCE Beauty Therapy Training Australia (BTTA) – a registered training organisation on the Gold Coast – is forging ahead with new developments. Staying at the cuttingedge of not only government-approved training, but also new technology they are now offering their students the most advanced devices so that they can learn from a diverse range of technologies.

BTTA recently gained high commendation for representatives of Queensland Radiation Health because of both the high standard of training they deliver, as well as the thorough supervision to the number of hours needed to reach competency standards rather than just working to a college timeframe.

CONFIDENT GRADUATES When you train with BTTA you are assured that you will graduate with appropriate skills and knowledge to move into practice with confidence.

Even students with years of experience are amazed at the depth of information they are gaining. Marina Capitelli is a secondgeneration beauty therapist and cosmetic tattooist and the owner of iBeauty Medispa in Brisbane.

Recently she applied for government funding through APAN and the Industry Skills Fund. She was expanding her businesses and wanted to gain further qualifications in laser for various advanced skin treatments as well as tattoo removal. As part of the qualifications that were on offer was the NAT10038 Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies. This qualification is only available through two colleges Australia-wide and includes skin rejuvenation, vascular, pigmentation as well as tattoo removal.

She was one of the first to train in IPL when it was first launched in Australia over 15 years ago. Passionate about learning, she received training and also gained a Laser Safety Officer's Licence, which she insisted all her staff also gained before performing IPL treatments in her business. Marina shares her experience below: When I decided to take on this qualification I was convinced that with my over 15 years' of experience and my Laser Safety Licence I would breeze through it. However, while I understood IPL I was not aware of the differences with laser. Initially I was overwhelmed with the theory, which was all new to me. This meant that I had to dedicate quite a bit of time towards my learning, which was far more advanced than I anticipated.

I am amazed at how much I am learning, and although daunting at first, I am starting to really enjoy it, and in particular I am enjoying tattoo removal. The knowledge I am gaining is allowing me to think more strategically before I prepare a treatment plan for my clients. With an understanding also of lasers, I know have more tools to work with. I can decide

whether to use a laser or an IPL, or even use both to get the best results for my clients. This course definitely teaching me how to get the very best results.

Many in the industry think if they have a Laser Safety Licence that they have a qualification. They don't. They have a licence in safety. Safety is very different to results. Gaining a qualification is a much more comprehensive exercise that cannot be compared to a licence. It gives you a greater depth of knowledge, both scientific and practical, and brings it all together to allow you to think more strategically so that you can plan how you can actually reach the outcomes your client is expecting. An LSO licence does not give you that knowledge.

I am so glad I undertook this course as I have not only understood lasers, but also gained even greater knowledge on how best to work with my IPL technology.

In terms of training I found that both Angie the principal and Marie, her senior trainer, were both amazing to learn from. They both have different styles that complement each other. What they challenged me is to think through things and determine my own direction in which way I wish to proceed with a treatment.

My new found knowledge will give me the ability and the confidence to do this more efficiently.

CONSUMERS LOOKING FOR VALUE FOR MONEY There is a lot of competition in the market now, and the public have a lot of choice who to go to for IPL and Laser treatments.

This qualification will give me a competitive advantage as I will be able to give consumers peace of mind that I can offer them not just safety, but the very best results in a reasonable time-frame, which can also make it cost-effective for them.

BTTA is currently offering training and qualifications in the following areas: ! LED Light Therapy ! SIBBBSKS506A – Apply Microderabrasion to improve skin appearance ! NAT10038 Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies ! SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in Intense Pulsed Light and Laser Hair Reduction ! Micro Skin Needling ! Paramedical Therapies ! Chemical Peels ! HLTN402B Maintain Infection Control Standards in Office Practice Settings ! WRBSS 505B Design and Perform Cosmetic Tattooing ! SIB50210 Diploma of Salon Management ! RPL to any of the above qualifications

For further information contact BEAUTY THERAPY TRAINING AUSTRALIA Ph: 07 55 590 889 or email contact@beautytherapytraining.com.au

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companyprofile

SWISS COLOR AUSTRALIA Most advanced Cosmetic Tattoo supplies and training Safety – Stability – Long-life – Amazing colours – Leading techniques Having entered the Cosmetic Tattoo industry in 2005 Maya Ercegovac is already making waves within the industry. She has now been appointed the distributor of Swiss Color (cosmetic tattoo pigments and machines) as well as the certified International Trainer for this company.

Maya originally came from a background in nursing, beauty therapy and natural therapies, however, in 2005 she trained in Cosmetic Tattooing and this led to her quest for achieving the best possible standards in this profession.

“While I originally training in the basics – eyeliner, lip liner and eyebrows,” Maya said, “I was determined to grow my knowledge, and so I pursued further training in advanced procedures as well as medical Cosmetic Tattooing such as Nipple Areola, as well as techniques in Multitrepannic Collagen Actuation.”

amines such as benzidine, 3,3’-dime-thoxybenzidine and p-aminoazobenzene that may be derived from azo colourants are considered to be hazardous. Expert authorities such as the World Health Organisation (WHO) International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) have classified some of these aromatic amines as known, or suspected, human carcinogens.

Swiss Colours offer pure pigments with optimised safety, stability and colour integrity. They comply with Swiss Standards and are tested by an independent laboratory to confirm they meet with these standards.

With a passion for perfection Maya travelled to several countries to access and be trained in the most advanced techniques. This quest took her to Holland, Brussels and England, where she completed several training programs and furthered her education. In Europe she was fortunate to also work in clinics alongside plastic surgeons and this allowed her to expand her knowledge and experience even further.

THE ISSUE OF SAFETY Driven by her commitment to high standards and precise work Maya started developing her own techniques that best served the outcomes that clients were seeking. Furthermore, her nursing background made her inquisitive about the safety of certain pigments and so she started researching and investigating pigment compositions and formulas, not just for their efficacy, but also for their long-term safety. She discovered that many of the commonly used pigments contained high percentages of iron oxide. In the long-term they were prone to changing colour and their safety was questionable. She therefore set out to find a high-quality pigment formulation that met specific criteria – safety, stability, long-term life and with a good colour selection.

It was then that she discovered Swiss Color.

Swiss Color is an Austrian-based company that offers newgeneration pigments with cutting edge technology in everything they manufacture – from pigments to their equipment. They also offer amazing training in the latest techniques.

Research outcomes from various studies presented at a recent Tattoo World Congress revealed that the majority of manufactures of colour pigments have a high degree of nickel, which eventually is released and stored into the lymph nodes.

SWISS COLOUR formulations guarantee that they contain: ! No nickel ! No iron oxide ! No azo dyes ! No alcohol ! No glycerine Azo dyes are known to break down to form a class of chemical substances referred to as aromatic amines. Certain aromatic

PIGMENT COURSE Maya offers intensive and comprehensive training in the latest techniques as well a thorough course in organic and inorganic pigments so as to educate the practitioner to master the use of pigments.

TRAINING Maya also offers training in all aspects of cosmetic tattooing from beginner to advanced post-graduate techniques.

These include: ! Microblading ! Eye-liner, lips and eye-brow techniques ! Pigment removal (this is a cutting edge patented system) Since its introduction to Australia, Swiss Colour is gaining popularity as it offers a high standard of product and safety, stability and an amazing colour choice like no other.

For further information on training or SWISS COLOR pigments and equipment contact Maya Ercegovac on 041 0303 809.

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Cosmetic Tattoo basic & advanced training Microblading Training Patented Tattoo removal system Cutting edge technology equipment Worlds first organic synthetic pigments No iron oxide MESO Concept & cryotherapy

START A SUCCESSFUL COSMETIC TATTOO FUTURE WITH HOLO ACADEMY!

Our unique training and advanced education programs broaden and deepen your professional knowledge. The Holo Academy trainers shape your skills with the use of intelligent SwissColorÂŽ equipment,certified hygienic modules and world first organic synthetic high quality pigments.

Swiss Color OS pigments are free from iron oxides, AZO, heavy metals, PAK, NDELA and nickel! 40 OS pigments for brows, lips, areola and camouflage.

Contact us now on 0410 303 809 for unique, easy and safe Cosmetic Tattoo training, equipment & pigments.

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holo A C A D E M Y

ingredientscience

VITAMIN C under the microscope

by Tina Viney

The benefits of vitamin C, whether taken internally or applied topically on the skin, are undisputed. When taken internally vitamin C as (L-ascorbic acid) is an extremely powerful antioxidant that is required for healthy tissue growth and repair, adrenal gland function and healthy gums. It protects against the harmful effects of pollution, prevents cancer, protects against infection and enhances immunity. When it comes to skin vitamin C has several interesting benefits. These include: ! Growth and repair of tissues ! Making skin, tendons and blood vessels ! Keeping bones and teeth healthy ! Essential for the formation of collagen that is responsible for skin density and firmness ! Excellent free radical scavenger protecting the cell membranes ! Promotes faster wound healing ! Controls the formation of melanin that contribute to pigmentation and sun spots ! Lightens and brightens the skin

VITAMIN C THE SKIN DEFENDER Vitamin C as a topical serum first made its appearance in Australia when a famous Vitamin C serum made headlines for its phenomenal lifting effect on the skin. I believe it was on A Current Affair that a 70-year-old man was featured who had applied the famous serum to half of his face and in just eight months the lifting effect was so incredible that it resembled a face lift. The next day David Jones sold over 5000 of these serums instantly. So Vitamin C became the “must have” skincare product.

There are numerous success stories that I could share with you, but for the purpose of this article I would like us to take a look at recent scientific studies as they present some interesting findings that will help us better understand the value of this vitamin in treating the skin, as well as its benefit as a supplement when taken internally.

At the end of this article I will also profile the various forms of topical vitamin Cs and give you a simple description of each. I also will conclude on my thoughts as to how to ascertain which one is the best – a matter which indeed is a contentious issue.

This is because when it comes to skincare there appears to be two camps of thought – those who advocate that the best form of vitamin C is L-ascorbic acid (AA), and those who support the lipid soluble form such as Ascorbyl palmitate (AP), Ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitoyl (ATI) or Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP).

So which one is best? I will attempt to address that later in this article. But first, let's look at some of the research on the role of vitamin C in the health of the skin and body.

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WHERE IS IT FOUND IN THE SKIN? Did you know that vitamin C is a normal skin constituent that is found at high levels in both the dermis and epidermis? In actual fact, the vitamin C content of the epidermis is higher than the dermis, although the vitamin C concentrations in both layers are approximately equal to that of other water-soluble antioxidants, including uric acid and glutathione. Ageing, however, causes a decline in vitamin C content in both the epidermis and dermis, as does excessive exposures to UV light or pollutants (e.g.,

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cigarette smoke and ozone) that may also lower vitamin C content, primarily in the epidermis. For this reason topical application of vitamin C should be part of your skinimprovement strategy.

Vitamin C in the skin is normally transported from the bloodstream. Transport proteins specific for ascorbic acid are found on cells in all layers of the skin. Keratinocytes have a high capacity for vitamin C transport, possibly to compensate for limited vascularisation of the epidermis.

Studies now confirm that oral supplementation with vitamin C effectively increases vitamin C levels in the skin. However, when plasma vitamin C levels are saturated, skin vitamin C concentrations no longer increase. At this point the optimum skin concentrations of the vitamin in the skin are not yet known.

TOPICAL APPLICATION Vitamin C can be provided to the skin through topical application. The stratum corneum is the primary obstacle to efficient vitamin C absorption from external sources; breaking down of the stratum corneum by laser, chemical or mechanical methods have been proven to enhance absorption. Although similar studies are still required for humans, studies on laboratory animals show that percutaneous vitamin C absorption greatly depends on pH. When it comes to ascorbic acid preparations with a pH below 4.0 aid in transport by promoting the uncharged form of vitamin C. Although concentrations of vitamin C up to 30% have been used for animal studies, maximal absorption was achieved with a 20% vitamin C solution, with higher concentrations showing lower absorption. Topical application of ascorbic acid will cross

the epidermis into the underlying dermal layers.

The stability of vitamin C in topical solutions is a concern, as exposures to air, heat and/or light may slowly degrade vitamin C. Although the natural form of vitamin C, ascorbic acid, is the most effective for topical administration, it is the least stable in solution and this is where companies will argue about which formula is most effective. We will look at other forms of vitamin C derivatives later in this article.

VITAMIN C DEFICIENCY Symptoms of vitamin C deficiency (known as scurvy) appear once plasma concentrations of ascorbic acid drop below 10 micromolar (ÎźM), a level that can be prevented by consuming as little as 10 mg of ascorbic acid daily. Cutaneous manifestations of scurvy result from declines in collagen synthesis, leading to disruption of connective tissue and fragility of blood vessels.

Early symptoms in the skin include a thickening of the stratum corneum and spots of small subcutaneous bleeding. As scurvy progresses, wound healing is impaired due to the loss of mature collagen, which allows wounds to remain open. Skin lesions caused by vitamin C deficiency are remediated by an adequate intake of vitamin C.

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PHOTOPROTECTION

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Vitamin C limits the damage induced by ultraviolet (UV) light exposure. Vitamin C is not a “sunscreen� because it does not absorb light in the UVA or UVB spectrum. Rather, the antioxidant activity of vitamin C protects against UV-induced damage caused by free radicals. Vitamin C transport proteins are increased in keratinocytes in response to UV light, suggesting an increased need for vitamin C uptake for adequate protection.

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UV light decreases vitamin C content of skin, an effect that is dependent on the intensity and duration of UV exposure. In cultured keratinocytes, the addition of vitamin C reduces UVrelated DNA damage and lipid peroxidation, limits the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines and protects against apoptosis.

Vitamin C also modulates redox-sensitive cell signalling in cultured skin cells and consequently increases cell survival following UV exposure.

In two rodent studies, addition of ascorbic acid to the diet reduced the size and number of dermal neoplasms and skin tumours induced by chronic UV exposure. To date, no other studies with UV exposure and oral ascorbic acid supplementation in animal models have been published.

In two human studies, oral vitamin C supplementation alone did not significantly increase Minimal Erythemal Dose (MED), a measure of photo-protection from UV light in skin. Overall, limited data suggest that vitamin C consumption alone provides insufficient antioxidant protection against UV irradiation.

However, multiple studies have found that oral supplementation with a combination of vitamin C and vitamin E effectively increases MED and decreases erythema-induced blood flow to damaged areas of skin. Thus, interactions between the two antioxidant vitamins may be necessary to achieve UV protection by dietary means.

the development of skin tumours. Another study concluded that topical application of vitamin C reduced the number of sunburnt cells, decreased erythema response, and reduced DNA damage induced by UVA exposure. Topically applied combinations of vitamin C and vitamin E are more effective in preventing photodamage than either vitamin alone. In particular, this combination of antioxidant vitamins decreased the immunosuppressive effects of UV exposure, increased MED and decreased cell damage. Limited human studies are available on photoprotection by topical application of vitamin C. Although topical ascorbic acid reduces radicals in UV-exposed human skin, only one study examined its effect on UV-induced erythemal response; this study reported no significant benefit of topical vitamin C. Like animal research, human studies using combinations of vitamin C and vitamin E have documented UV protective effects.

EFFECT ON WRINKLES AND PHOTO-DAMAGE The accumulation of oxidative damage to proteins is a distinguishing feature of both photo-damage (photo-ageing) and intrinsic ageing; such oxidative damage can lead to changes in skin structure. In addition to its antioxidant functions, vitamin C regulates the synthesis of the structural protein collagen. The role of vitamin C in the hydroxylation of collagen molecules is well characterised. Hydroxylation of collagen is necessary for its extracellular stability and support of the epidermis.

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Topical application of vitamin C, alone or in combination with other compounds, may result in greater photo-protection than oral supplementation because of the more direct route of administration. In one mouse study, topical application of ascorbic acid delayed the effects of chronic high-dose UVB exposure on the skin, including a reduction in skin wrinkling and

In cell culture models, vitamin C supplementation has many beneficial effects in combating photo-damage. Specifically, vitamin C has been shown to stabilise collagen mRNA, thus increasing collagen protein synthesis for repair of the damaged skin. This occurs concurrently with a decrease in elastin

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production; the elastin protein is often overproduced in response to photo-damage. Vitamin C also increases the proliferation rate of fibroblasts, a capacity that is decreased with age. Further, vitamin C stimulates DNA repair in cultured fibroblasts.

corneum with low water permeability. One study using topical vitamin C in human subjects correlated its use with decreased skin roughness.

OTHER FACTORS Human studies often assess skin health by changes in depth or number of wrinkles and by the individual’s perception of skin health. Two observational studies found that higher intakes of vitamin C from the diet were associated with better skin appearance, with notable decreases in skin wrinkling. The use of vitamin C (3-10%) in topical applications for at least 12 weeks has been shown to decrease wrinkling, reduce protein fibre damage, decrease apparent roughness of skin and increase production of collagen. Topical vitamin C has also been shown to reverse some of the age-related structural changes in the interface between the dermis and the epidermis. However, the effects of topical vitamin C are not apparent in all individuals, and interestingly, one study found that individuals with high dietary intakes of vitamin C showed no or little effect of a topical administration.

EFFECT ON WOUND HEALING

Environmental pollutants, such as ozone, can decrease vitamin C levels in the skin and lead to free radical damage. Smoking also leads to increased wrinkling and decreased collagen synthesis, which corresponds to a decline in plasma vitamin C levels, however, it is unclear if this correlates to lower vitamin C levels in skin.

Topical vitamin C may be useful against acne to reduce inflammatory lesions. However, studies have primarily focused on the use of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, a synthetic derivative.

Topical vitamin C may also have mild skin-lightening effects that are caused by reductions in melanin production and melanin oxidation.

IN SUMMARY Studies confirm that vitamin C when c o m b i n e d w i t h Vi t a m i n E w o r k synergistically, that is when they work together they have a greater affect than when they work on their own. Vitamin E scavenges for dangerous oxygen radicals in the cell membrane, while vitamin C breaks the free radical chain in biological fluid.

One of the distinctive features of scurvy is poor wound healing. This is because vitamin C levels decrease rapidly at a wound site. Although inflammatory responses often increase free radicals at the site of injury and the presence of vitamin C may limit free radical Because the body cannot manufacture damage, free radicals may play a vitamin C, it must be obtained through the complex role in the healing response It doesn't only help our body but also looks diet or in the form of supplements or topical that is not yet understood. However, the pretty awesome. This image of vitamin C application on the skin. However, as increased demand for dermal collagen is made with a X4 objective on a Zeiss Vitamin C is water-soluble most of it is lost synthesis may increase utilisation of Ultraphot lll microscope and shows this in the urine. vitamin C. Vitamin C may have essential molecule for our body. additional roles in wound healing, for Vitamin C is an essential part of skin health example, by promoting keratinocyte differentiation, stimulating both as a small molecular weight antioxidant and as a critical the formation of the epidermal barrier and re-establishing the factor for collagen synthesis. Vitamin C contributes to photostratum corneum. protection, decreases photo-damage and is needed for adequate wound healing. Oral supplementation with vitamin C may help prevent UV-induced damage, especially in combination with supplemental vitamin E.

Studies on the effect of vitamin C supplementation on wound healing have reported somewhat mixed results. Data from laboratory animals and humans show that vitamin C deficiency results in poor wound healing, and vitamin C supplementation in deficient individuals shows significant benefits. Although vitamin C levels appear to increase collagen synthesis and decrease inflammatory responses at the site of the wound, neither vitamin C supplementation or increased plasma vitamin C status increases wound closure time in otherwise healthy individuals. This suggests that vitamin C may only affect specific facets of the wound-healing response. Topical ascorbic acid has not been properly evaluated prior to or during wound healing in humans.

Dietary vitamin C may also provide photo-protection, but the extent of the protective effects will require additional research.

Topical application of vitamin C appears to be an effective route for delivering ascorbic acid to the skin, because ascorbic acid appears to be taken up readily at an acidic pH. Despite inconsistencies in vitamin C preparations and study design that examined the effects of topical use of ascorbic acid, the data suggest that vitamin C is most effective in protecting against damage induced by UV light, and also has utility in the treatment of photo-damage and/or skin wrinkling.

Vitamin C is included in oral therapies for pressure ulcers (bed sores) and burns, along with vitamin E, zinc and other nutritive factors.

Last, the research confirmed that the greatest effects of vitamin C supplementation are seen when it is combined with other micronutrients, such as vitamin E and zinc.

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VITAMIN C AND DRY SKIN Higher intakes of dietary vitamin C have been correlated with a decreased risk of dry skin, suggesting that ascorbic acid may have effects on transepidermal water loss (TEWL). In cell culture models, addition of vitamin C promotes the synthesis of barrier lipids, which would establish a functioning stratum

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REVIEWING THE VARIOUS TOPICAL FORMS OF VITAMIN C As I stated early in this article, let's take a look at the various forms of vitamin C for topical application and how they differ:

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Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) is similar to ascorbic acid in that it is water-soluble. However, it also has what AA lacks: a gentle effect on skin, efficacy in lower concentrations and stability at a neutral pH. In one study researchers discovered that it was statistically more effective than ascorbyl tetraisopalmitoyl in free radical reduction, although less so than AA. However, it does seem to better quench the deeper layers of skin than ascorbic acid.

L-Ascorbic Acid (AA) is vitamin C in its purest form. This unstable, water-soluble antioxidant seems to be the key to benefiting from the nutrient’s skin-rejuvenating powers. It is usually found in concentrations of 5 – 25%, although it is arguable what concentration is best for absorption. While some say a 10% concentration boosts collagen synthesis, others say the optimal amount is 20%, and still others claim that nothing over 18% can be absorbed.

Also important to ascorbic acid’s effectiveness is its pH level.

The lower the pH level the more stable, permeable and, therefore, effective it is. When its pH level is too high, it oxidises, degrades and becomes inactive – or sometimes even a harbour for dangerous free radical formation.

What can be frustrating when shopping for the perfect vitamin C serum is the fact that the ideal, potent formula (high concentration, low pH) tends to irritate the skin. Still, there is a solution: using a topical-based cream with no water will be less irritating since most of the inflammation is caused by hydrogen ions generated by acid disassociating in water.

Ascorbic acid is certainly a tricky substance in terms of stabilisation and absorption. And sometimes, even if you do find a formula without water, it can still cause redness or other signs of irritation. Luckily, there are other options to explore for those seeking the advantages vitamin C has to offer.

Synthesised vitamin C derivatives, including ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitoyl, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate are more stable and less irritating than ascorbic acid.

The question is, are they more effective?

Ascorbyl palmitate (AP) is a vitamin C ester, which means that it has been esterified to a fatty acid. It is fat soluble as opposed to the water-soluble ascorbic acid, which may hinder its ability to penetrate skin. Also, ascorbyl palmitate produces different and long-term effects compared with ascorbic acid.

Ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitoyl (ATIP) is a vitamin C derivative. It is also stable, due to being fat soluble and less irritating than ascorbyl acid. A study conduction in 2006 concluded that it ATIP can suppress UVinduced skin pigmentation at a 3% dose.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate plays nice with vitamins A and E and UV filters. One study published in Dermatologic Surgery in 2002 showed that a topical formulation combining 10% vitamin C and 7% tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate improved hydration and collagen synthesis in the skin and resulted in "clinically visible and statistically significant improvement in wrinkling" after 12 weeks. Another study conducted in 2009 claimed that it can actually prevent UV damage occurring and is effective at a lower concentration. However, ATIP seems to be a poor performer when it comes to penetrating skin.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) is known to promote collagen formation, and its ability to be stabilised for at least 24 months if it is stored in the original sealed containers at 25 degrees Celsius.

It is also being lauded as an effective acne fighter. Still, it is a fairly new derivative, so there is not a great deal of research comparing it to ascorbic acid.

As you can see there is great value in applying vitamin C topically, but here is the crunch. If the vitamin C is Ascorbic Acid or Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate it will be water-soluble, and in order to get it into the skin where we can deliver the benefits it must penetrate through the lipid membrane that acts as an extremely effective barrier. This is where the story becomes interesting as scientists need to overcome this obstacle through advanced delivery systems that will allow the product to penetrate the skin. Then there is the issue of stability and shelf life.

On the other hand, lipid-friendly derivatives boast that they can overcome these problems, but are they as effective?

Formulators of lipid soluble forms of Vitamin C state that extremely low pH of L-Ascorbic Acid can create inflammation, while the ester (lipid-soluble forms) such as Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl tetra-isopalmitoyl and Sodium ascorbyl phosphate can be applied to the skin without irritation, stinging or burning. Because of these advantages they can be used with glycolic acid and retinol and after laser resurfacing to assist in the recovery process. These are definite advantages. In fact Ascorbyl Palminate acts as an anti-inflammatory and can even be applied to conditions such as psoriasis. Studies also show that Ascorbyl Palmitate can dramatically decrease UVB-induced erythema (sunburn) when applied topically.

So how do they various formulas stack up against the other?

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Several years ago I was fortunate to be working with Professor Michael Roberts from the University of Queensland. Professor Roberts is a Senior Principal Research Fellow, Professor of Therapeutics and Pharmaceutical Science at the University of South Australia and Professor of Clinical Pharmacology and Therapeutics at The University of Queensland. He is also Director of the Therapeutics Research Centre based in the Translational Research Institute at the Princess Alexandra Hospital in Brisbane and in the Basil Hetzel Institute at The Queen Elizabeth Hospital in Adelaide.

He is what you would call a heavyweight when it comes to Clinical Research and in particular in matters that pertain to formulation research. When discussing the issue of which vitamin C was best he gave me some advice that I will never forget and his recommendation was not to get caught up in this debate because there are no simple answers.

He further explained to me that in today's world there are many pathways that a product can be formulated and stabilised to deliver the desired outcome and vitamin C in a prime example.

Overall, studies seem to agree that while ascorbic acid is the champion, formulators have to overcome many challenges, namely its ability to penetrate the skin and its lack of stability means that it has a limited shelf life, while in the presence of light it can rapidly deteriorate. Also, because of its low pH it often is not easily tolerated in serum form with certain skin types.

This is why we have various formulations that claim that one is superior to another. What you need to know is that applying topical vitamin C is highly beneficial, both in protecting the skin against pigmentation, which is a big issue for us in Australia and in supporting collagen synthesis.

In terms of choosing the best product you need to question the company on a number of issues and request that they provide you with the scientific evidence of the product’s stability, efficacy and shelf life, the percentage of active, contraindications and precautionary measures for their formulation, and what other treatments can it be safely combined with. You will need to look at the research as well as trial the product for yourself. Ultimately, you as the professional will need to make the decision as to which formula offers you the best results that you can trust.

REFERENCES: PubMed: Shindo Y, Witt E, Han D, Epstein W, Packer L. Enzymic and non-enzymic antioxidants in epidermis and dermis of human skin. J Invest Dermatol 1994;102:122-124.

Rhie G, Shin MH, Seo JY, et al. Aging- and photoaging-dependent changes of enzymic and nonenzymic antioxidants in the epidermis and dermis of human skin in vivo. J Invest Dermatol 2001;117:1212-1217.

Lopez-Torres M, Shindo Y, Packer L. Effect of age on antioxidants and molecular markers of oxidative damage in murine epidermis and dermis. J Invest Dermatol 1994;102:476-480.

Shindo Y, Witt E, Packer L. Antioxidant defense mechanisms in murine epidermis and dermis and their responses to ultraviolet light. J Invest Dermatol 1993;100:260-265 Thiele JJ, Traber MG, Tsang K, Cross CE, Packer L. In vivo exposure to ozone depletes vitamins C and E and induces lipid peroxidation in epidermal layers of murine skin. Free Radic Biol Med 1997;23:385-391.

Podda M, Traber MG, Weber C, Yan LJ, Packer L. UV-irradiation depletes antioxidants and causes oxidative damage in a model of human skin. Free Radic Biol Med 1998;24:55-65.

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starperformer

SKEYNDOR Takes STEM CELLS to the NEXT LEVEL Back in 2008 SKEYNDOR revolutionised the professional skincare industry and the anti-ageing sector with the launch of ETERNAL, a first in treatment products featuring plant-origin stem cells encapsulated in nano-liposomes.

Skin stem cells are power-houses that continually work to replenish and repair skin damaged through ageing and the environment. As we age, our stem cells decrease, becoming less able to renew and rejuvenate, causing the skin to deteriorate.

Skeyndor discovered a way to help activate the reservoirs in the

skin using the plant stem cells of a rare apple species and an advanced delivery system, making them available to skin stem cells in the epidermis. The ingredient was honoured by the BSB European Cosmetic Academy Association bestowing the 2008 Innovation Award.

A breakthrough in skin science that uses actives found in the stem cells of the Uttwiler Spätlauber, a rare apple found in Switzerland. Studies of the factors of the stem cells extracted from the Spätlauber reveal the tremendous regenerative capacity of this apple variety, giving them the secret of withstanding the passage of time.

This avant-garde, pioneering ETERNAL line combines the topical application of unique and technologically advanced bioactive plant stem cells and advanced ingredients to renew and regenerate damaged skin for long-term results.

The power-plus concentrated plant stem cell nanoliposomes work to protect and ensure the longevity of our own skin cells. Rich in phyto-nutrients, they protect, enhance the skin's durability, delay and minimise the signs of ageing.

These plant stem cell nanoliposomes have no trouble penetrating all layers of the skin and rejuvenate by stimulating ageing skin stem cells to target and address the appearance of wrinkles, lift and contour, vastly improve tone, help skin recover its volume and boost texture and skin clarity.

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THE FUTURE FACE The ETERNAL line includes homecare products and an intensive professional treatment that is often referred to as 'The Future Face'. A comprehensive and highly specialised facial procedure that infuses bioactive apple stem cell nanoliposomes through an effective delivery system, and in combination with a concentrated formula of Hyaluronic Acid, Organic Silicon and extracts of Sea Fennel, Lupine and Marine Lavender. Together they have the ability to penetrate to where they can do the most good by stimulating ageing skin stem cells.

The ETERNAL Youth Facial is at the forefront of preventative care, addresses every nuance of ageing, targeting deep furrows, sagging skin and expression lines while it delivers intense hydration and retards the progression of wrinkling. Repairing damage, addressing and reducing age spots and sun damage, it returns a new vitality to the complexion, renewing and regenerating so the skin can recover its lustre, volume, smoothness and youthfulness.

SLEEPING NIGHT OIL Fast track to 2016 and welcome ETERNAL's new addition, Sleeping Night Oil. An advanced cosmetic formula, its active ingredients deliver multiple benefits to the skin, stimulating cell renewal, repairing the epidermis and detoxifying for a renewed and more youthful skin.

It stimulates stem cells and protects epidermal stem cell DNA, thanks to the potent properties of Sea Kale extract. In addition, SKEYNDOR merges Sea Fennel Extract with five (5) exquisite natural oils, including Avocado to nourish, Wheatgerm for its anti-oxidant benefits, Macademia to moisturise and the exquisite essential oils of Jasmin, Ylang Ylang and Bitter Orange to boost wellbeing and promote a more restful sleep, which accelerates the skin's ability to regenerate even further.

Use a few drops of the deeply nourishing ETERNAL Sleeping Night Oil and gently massage over the face, neck and décolleté or mix with any SKEYNDOR night cream. Like a ritual for the skin, it melts into the skin on contact, leaving the complexion luminous, supple and youthful. The ETERNAL line now features a professional treatment, four homecare facial products – Intensive Serum, Face Cream, Icy Eye Cream and now the Sleeping Night Oil in addition to the Body Repair Serum.

To introduce the amazing ETERNAL Treatment Line to your salon or clinic please call VOGUE IMAGE GROUP 1 800 554 545 Email info@vogueimage.com.au, or visit www.vogueimage.com.au.

“While we sleep, the skin goes through reparative phases. It is at this time it is more receptive to the active ingredients we apply.

It allows them to be absorbed more readily to do their best work”. says Luca Mora, CEO, SKEYNDOR in Australia.

Clients using ETERNAL can expect a significant and longlasting improvement in deep and superficial lines, hydration levels, volume, clarity and skin texture.

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The new Sleeping Night Oil is a luxurious and satiny formula that boosts the overnight restorative and regenerative process to re-energise and guard from further damage.

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businessstrategies

BLOGGING When and how often should you do it for your clinic If Blogging were a product, it would be selling like hotcakes!

We’re all the

By Trish Hammond same – when we are in front of our computer or on our phone, we’re either on social media, watching a Trish Hammond video, checking our emails or reading a blog. We search for info on Google, blog posts or anywhere we can learn about what we are looking for.

Reading blogs allows us to learn in a more exciting and engaging way, because blogs are basically just stories with essential information – info you are interested in or searching for. You can get informed and be entertained at the same time. Blogs are usually presented in a casual and exciting way – kind of like reading a pocket book. An added bonus is not only is it fun, but you can interact with it and even ask questions.

Now, in relation to your clinic – should you blog? The answer is a big Y-E-S! Definitely! As an ethical and highly qualified practitioner, blogging can help to position you as an authority in your field. It builds trust. It engages your audience – even if they are not engaging in the comments, believe me, they are still engaging. They’re remembering you, and you are building a little step-by-step connection with every blog post you do.

Blogging boosts demand for your expertise. Potential clients read blog posts to learn and ask questions before considering you, someone else, a particular procedure or a treatment they are researching. Blogging is where you reach out to people. Sharing your information builds credibility, and if your blogs are interesting and engaging, people will keep a watch out for your next blog. It’s kind of like waiting for the next episode of your favourite TV series – how excited were you when you knew the next season of the Game Of Thrones was due out?

So, the next questions is – how often should you blog? As the saying goes, “Quality is better than quantity”. Don’t focus on metrics. There is no definite answer as to how often anyone should blog. Whatever you decide to do though, commit to doing it. Whether it be weekly, fortnightly, monthly or whatever – just make the commitment to do it, and don’t let anything stray you from this. An easy way to do this is to pick a half-a-dozen topics that you’re knowledgeable about. Get your smart phone or recording device out and start to talk about one topic at a time.

The best blogs are the ones that ‘sound’ like someone is talking to you. Keep it conversational; it will resonate more with your ‘tribe’ and it’s really, really easy to do. Put in the effort to maintain a regular schedule you can commit to doing your blogging “to do’s” so that your followers know when you are planning your next article. It will be appreciated!

Just a tip, don’t forget to include your Social Media icons for easy sharing. So even if you’re not blogging that often, you can be sure your blog is shared. Start with your own social media channels, and of course, any social media groups you are part of – whether they be public, closed, secret or private. You’ll find

that your fellow ‘tribe’ on these groups love to read what you have to say. It’s an added, great way to build your credibility and a great way to start a conversation about what you do, or what you have on offer.

So, when do I do my blogging? I blog everywhere I go. It’s easy.

I’m driving and a thought pops into my head and I think to myself “Mmmmm, I need to blog about this”. No matter where I am or what I’m doing the joy of having an iPhone comes into its own here. “Hey, Siri, set me a reminder tomorrow morning to blog about ……….” And guess what? Siri sets me a reminder about that blog topic.

Another thing I just LOVE doing is actually recording a voice memo blog while I’m driving, or listening to a podcast during a TV commercial – really, any time is the right time. It’s just about setting yourself those little reminders or prompts to make sure when you’re ready to sit and talk or type you’re not stuck with a blank mind and nothing to fill those gaps. No more writer’s block! It’s almost like having the introduction done on a research paper! You know what you are going to blog about, and you have a nice little ‘emotion-packed’ intro to work from, because you’ve recorded it when it’s fresh in your mind. Reminders are gold.

I really believe that you can’t blog too often, as long as it’s relevant and interesting and informative. You might just find that your article is being shared and spread around, which in turn will bring in traffic to your website, increasing your popularity, boosting your engagement, increasing your Google (or search engine) rankings, and grow the bookings in your diary!

In a nutshell, make it pertinent, make it real, do it consistently, and remember to make a record of the topic, or discussion wherever you are – do it then or it’s gone! Well, that’s how it works for me.

Lastly, like all things in life, enjoy it while you’re doing it – it’s not hard – don’t make it hard.

If you would like to speak to Trish about your blogging needs please contact her on 0429 264 811 or Email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au

PLASTIC SURGERY HUB ALSO PROVIDE ADDITIONAL SERVICES INCLUDING:

! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Press Releases Social Media Setup and/or Management Blog Submissions Vlogs (video blogs) Article Submission / Article Writing Directory Submissions Website Optimisation (individualised and specific) Website Creation (for you to edit and update as required)

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Are you ready for a

BUSINESS BOOST? Why APAN/Think Pink SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH is such a success

by Tina Viney Partnering with the Think Pink Foundation in support of breast cancer APAN launched a new national project – the APAN/Think Pink Skin and Wellness Month, a nation-wide initiative where consumers are invited to experience the treatment and products of caring and professional therapists who are participating in a campaign to raise funds for the Living Centres – a Think Pink Foundation initiative offering support and care for breast-cancer sufferers and their families. This can be a very painful and devastating journey that can affect not just the patient, but also their families.

businesses gain new clients and benefit from a healthy injection of business growth through this initiative. We have therefore gone the extra mile to ensure that the industry also gains from it. To achieve this we engaged marketing and social media specialists to develop promotional material and to utilise the skills and expertise of some very capable professionals to ensure the success of the campaign also benefits businesses. This has been a substantially more expensive exercise that first anticipated, but we wanted to ensure we did it right and as much as possible make it easy for salons and clinics to leverage off this opportunity and grow their businesses.

Since the launch of the campaign APAN has been inundated with interest and support from businesses who are choosing to To ensure your success this is what you get in your participate. The number of salons and clinics are growing each REGISTRATION KIT: day and we are delighted to help grow businesses, while together we reach our target of $100,000 and beyond. ! DECAL: A special Decal to display in the window for consumers to identify that you are a participating business WHY SHOULD BUSINESSES PARTICIPATE? ! MARKETING IDEAS: A wonderful list of over 30 Being an APAN initiative means that an industry Standards Body marketing ideas to get you started in your own is vouching for the various businesses who are joining us in this promotional campaign endeavour. While this is primarily cause-related marketing and a ! BROCHURES: Beautifully presented promotional demonstration of our corporate social responsibility, the astute brochures to give out to every client. These brochures will business owners are identifying that they have much to gain in have a place for you to include your details. They have participating. been professionally written to present information on Think Pink, The Project and APAN. There is a special Consumers appreciate and are drawn to businesses who engage in section for you to include your contact details, and the activities that give back to the community, and everyone wants to brochure promotes the importance of supporting YOUR be part of a worthwhile cause. business in this fundraising initiative by accessing your services and products and by sharing the brochure with a While we want to raise valuable funds to support the Think Pink friend or family member. In essence this brochure will Foundation, APAN also sees a great opportunity to help encourage your clients to promote you.

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!

!

E-BANNERS AND TEMPLATE: You will be issued with templates and banners that you can use in your own social media platforms, website, newsletter, etc. Logos and wording will be provided to ensure a uniform and professional message across the board, and to ensure that no legal guidelines are breached as set out by the Think Pink Foundation.

WEBSITE AND SOCIAL MEDIA PROMOTION OF YOUR BUSINESS: All participating salons and clinics details will be featured on the APAN Urban Community website, where consumers will also be directed from a national campaign to find a salon near them. Full contact details and website links will also direct new clients to you.

As an astute business owner consider the following GOLD – businesses that have three or less staff PLATINUM – businesses that have four or more staff benefits and ask yourself can you benefit from these?

! ! ! ! ! ! !

Increase your visibility and attract new clients through a nation-wide publicity campaign Increase your sales figures Increase brand awareness of your business and services Create an exciting new motivation to improve staff performance Partner with participating suppliers for amazing promotions Leverage your competitive edge Benefit from a huge national corporate campaign without huge financial outlay or labour costs Celebrate life with your clients and their friends and family

As well as two overall national winners. Why not aim to become your State winner. This will win you extra publicity and rewards.

WINNERS WILL BE ANNOUNCED AT THE MYFACE MYBODY AWARDS We are delighted to announce that the organisers of the International Aesthetics Awards, MYFACE MYBODY, have accepted for us to join them at their red-carpet gala dinner event and to announce and award our winners as well.

We have also secured the wonderful Melissa Tkautz, who will be issuing the awards with us so you can take your celebrity photos with her. This is going to be an amazing evening. While the MyFace MyBody Award winners will be announced at the end of DO WE NEED TO WAIT FOR OCTOBER? the evening, the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS We are often asked should the participating business wait until winners will be announced directly after the entree is serviced.

October to launch the promotion? The answer is definitely no.

You should start promoting your fundraising services now. Just reserve something extra special for October. You can work To access an Application Form for the APAN/THINK PINK something out with your supplier as well if you wish.

SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH please visit

!

WINNING CATEGORIES Don't forget, the business that raises the most funds in each State will be recognised and acknowledged. We have decided to have two categories for finalists in each State:

www.apanetwork.com or phone APAN on 07 5593 0360.

We trust you will join us.

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apan/thinkpinkproject

Aesth et

The initiative – SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH – is a co-branded project in support of the THINK PINK FOUNDATION and to raise funds for the development of further LIVING CENTRES that offer care, support and services to individuals and their families who are

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In the Autumn issue of APJ APAN invited salons, clinics and businesses in this industry to join with APAN and take part in a new nation-wide initiative with the objective of raising much needed funds for breast-cancer victims and their families.

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APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH – 1-31 October 2016

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CELEBRITY AMBASSADOR

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touched by breast cancer. While there are numerous charities that raise funds for cancer research, 100% of all monies raised for the THINK PINK FOUNDATION go towards care of the individual and their families who are coming to terms with the challenges of living with breast cancer. Furthermore, statistics tell us that in Australian one in eight women will experience breast cancer in their lifetime.

These are alarming statistics, and now you have the opportunity to do something about it as part of our corporate social responsibility.

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Additionally, SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH will also provide valuable marketing benefit to salons and clinics that participate as service providers for this project, with the potential to double your client-base.

Our aim is to raise $100,000 as a minimum in support of establishing Living Centres in every State. For this project we are seeking to engage 300 clinics who wish to help us achieve this and also benefit from a nation-wide marketing and promotional campaign. If you have not as yet registered your business to participate, we urge you to look into this immediately by visiting www.apanetwork.com and access the registration form under THINK PINK. However, there is further good news! We are delighted to have secured the support of Melissa Tkautz as our Celebrity Ambassador for the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH.

BRIEF BACKGROUND Melissa Natalie Tkautz is an Australian actress, singer-songwriter and model born in January 1974. She has been featured in numerous magazine covers over the years and is considered the darling of the media. As an actress Tkautz had the role of Nikki Spencer on the popular Australian TV soap opera E Street from 1990 to 1993. During the early 1990s she had a solo music career, performing mononymously as Melissa, and had top 20 hits on the ARIA Singles Chart with "Read My Lips" (No. 1, June 1991), "Sexy (Is the Word)" (No. 3, September) and "Skin to Skin" (No. 16, April 1992). Her debut album, Fresh, was released in June 1992 and peaked at No. 15 on the ARIA Albums Chart.

After her stint on E Street, Tkautz has appeared on Paradise Beach (1993–94), Pacific Drive (1996–98), All Saints (2001–02, 2004), Swift and Shift Couriers (2008, 2011) and Housos (2011). Her modelling career has included early child modelling, then as a teen in various pop entertainment magazines and from 1996 on fashion and men's magazines. On 4 December 2005 she issued her second solo album, Lost & Found, which provide a single, her cover version of "The Glamorous Life", which appeared in the top 40. In August 2011 she issued a compilation album, The Hits and More.

Melissa is currently working on a new single and is completing a movie project where she plays a leading role. As a very busy artist and devoted mother of two Melissa is also passionately committed to giving back to the community. Of the many charities that were presented to her by her agency, Stage Addiction, Melissa felt drawn to the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH and chose to contribute to the success of this project as it resonated with her own life experiences.

We believe that Melissa's valuable contribution will increase and heighten media awareness and help profile the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH as a worthy project that consumers will prioritise to support. Together we can join forces to ensure the success of this project for all stakeholders who choose to both contribute and benefit from this amazing initiative.

In this private interview Melissa shares with us aspects of her personal and professional life and why she chose to support this project over others.

APJ Q1: Melissa, how did your journey into the arts, film, TV and music begin, and what do you love the most about your work?

Melissa: From a very young age I loved dancing and singing as I am a very creative person. As a young girl I was very shy, however, when I took up drama lessons I found a release to express myself. While I was a very quiet person, at drama school I was the loudest in the room. What I love about my work is that it gives my creativity an outlet for expression.

APJ Q2: Were you guided in diversifying into various areas in your career or was it something you always wanted?

Melissa: I really don't have one aspect of the industry that I love more than the other. I find it all fascinating and enjoy the diversity of acting, film, dancing and singing equally. Our industry in Australia is fairly small so I trained and was open to all genres. My journey has allowed me to explore the various aspects of the industry and I have enjoyed the experience of engaging in diverse projects.

APJ Q3: What are the current projects that you are working on?

Melissa: I am currently working on a new song – a single – and I am also working on a movie with the shooting soon to be finalised. It is a horror movie about a boar that kills people and it is happening in a local country town. I am playing the pub owner.

There are possible other projects on the drawing board that I am currently considering.

APJ Q4: What are you most passionate about in life, e.g. the environment, humanity, politics, etc?

Melissa: I am passionate in doing my part for the environment and eating healthy. I think this is so important these days, especially if you have a very busy schedule. I also want to be a good mum and also be a good role model in the community.

Another area that I strongly believe in is giving back, this is why I was so excited about participating in the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH and in helping to create awareness and fundraising for the THINK PINK LIVING CENTRES.

APJ Q5: In your personal life have you experienced cancer through a close friend or family member?

Melissa: I lost my father to cancer when he was just 49. He suffered from lymphoma and later it metastasised to an aggressive bowel cancer. I was just a young girl in my early 20s and it was a horrific experience that deeply traumatised me. In just 12 months after his death I lost my aunty to breast cancer, so I am very familiar with the suffering and pain that can result from cancer, not just for the sufferer, but also for the family members.

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APJ Q6: As a relative how difficult is the journey for the sufferers and their family?

Melissa: It is extremely difficult, more difficult than anyone can imagine, especially when you feel helpless and that there is nothing you can do. I remember being in hospice care. We were all in the dark and there was no-one available to give us insight about this journey, what to expect and how to prepare for it. On the other hand friends often feel helpless, and because they don't

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know what to say or feel they cannot say anything positive or give you hope they tend to avoid you all together.

I can definitely relate to the amazing support and care that is now available through the Think Pink Living Centres and can vouch for the incredibly important role in helping not just the patient through their journey, but also family members who are also in shock and suffering. I am also aware of situations when a child can lose a parent and be left with no mother or no father, how devastating that can be. Having a place like the Living Centre that can offer care, support and assist in so many ways is of enormous benefit.

APJ Q9: APAN is aiming to raise over $100,000 for the Think Pink Foundation with the objective to assist Think Pink to service and establish further Living Centres in every State. Is there a message you would like to share with our APAN community on why they should support and be involved in the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH? Melissa: As a business owner you have to focus on growing

APJ Q7: You have been approached to support many charities. What moved you to accept and support the APAN THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS campaign over other programs and become an ambassador for this program?

Melissa: What really appealed to me with this program is that it

your business so you engage in marketing strategies. Why not promote your business in a good light by showing your clients and potential new consumers that you are not just about making money, but you are willing to give back to the community. What a great way to get your business out there. Recently, one of the teachers at school had cancer and all the mothers got together to get her some special care. We paid for her to have facials, etc. It felt so good and she really appreciated it. It made such a difference to her as well. Your industry are caregivers on so many levels.

was actually helping the individual sufferer and their family in a caring, tangible and compassionate manner. While I acknowledge that we need research to identify possible cures for cancer, we also need to take care of individuals and their families now, and sometimes the importance of this is not given enough attention.

I am sure this project will allow you to be part of something amazing that will be appreciated by consumers and your clients, it will make you and your staff feel good, and more importantly, you will have to opportunity to support the provision of valuable care for breast-cancer sufferers and their families.

APJ Q8: We are raising funds to support the development of further Think Pink Living Centres so that they are in every State. How do you believe these centres will benefit the cancer sufferers and their families?

Melissa: Looking at their achievements within the first year that the Living Centre was launched it was able to assist over 1000 sufferers. That is an incredible achievement. Image having one of these centres in every State. They provide care and support through a range of special services, which I will outline below: ! Listen and Support: Providing a safe, nurturing environment where quality support and care can be given. ! Inform and educate: Educational programs and workshops to help guide and empower. ! Revitalise and Restore: Special days where women come and have a variety of therapies, e.g. makeup, drawing eyebrows, hair care and wig services, relaxation massage, etc. ! Accommodation: Subsidise away from home accommodation for country women. ! Daily Wellness programs: Pilates, yoga, walking, art therapy, writing therapy, etc. ! Weekly practical help programs: Tackling debt, insurance availability, finances structures for future family needs, Will writing, shopping vouchers, gardening help and other needs. ! Family: Care and support to family members who may be overwhelmed.

How wonderful is it to know that as a community we can contribute to helping raise funds to help support the continuation of these services.

APJ Q10: Will we be seeing you at any of the APAN events?

Melissa: I will be attending the Sydney Conference as well as the Gala Dinner, so hopefully I will get to see as many of you as possible.

HOW YOU CAN BENEFIT FROM THE APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH

! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Increase your visibility and attract new clients through a nation-wide publicity campaign Increase your sales figures Increase brand awareness of your business and services Create an exciting new motivation to improve staff performance Partner with participating suppliers for amazing promotions Leverage your competitive edge Benefit from a huge national corporate campaign without huge financial outlay or labour costs Be respected by your clients that you are supporting the community Celebrate life with your clients and their friends and family

Let's come together as a community of practice and GIVE BACK to a worthy cause. Gain greater visibility as a credible professional product and service provider. Be recognised as being an active participant of a corporate social responsibility initiative.

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Check out the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH ad for further details.

For further information phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com with your contact details so that we can phone you.

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APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH

A co-branded initiative between APAN and the THINK PINK FOUNDATION Join APAN, as together we launch a new nation-wide initiative that will reflect our Corporate Social Responsibility and give back. Support the Think Pink Foundation to establish further Living Centres in every State to help those who are diagnosed with breast cancer and their families.

APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH will spotlight you and your business as a service provider with a caring objective.

Clinics, Salons and Suppliers are invited to register with the APAN/Think Pink SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH and become service providers and active participants with this fundraising initiative. Research confirms that consumers favour purchasing products and services from businesses that support a cause.

By registering and participating in the APAN/Think Pink SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH you will be both a contributor and an ambassador of this amazing new fundraising initiative while also benefiting your business.

Here is your chance to benefit from the nation-wide publicity.

Let's come together as a community of practice and GIVE BACK to a worthy cause. Gain greater visibility as a credible professional product and service provider. Be recognised as being an active participant of a corporate social responsibility initiative. Join us and contribute to a worthwhile cause and enhance your reputation and profile by association through the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH.

Our aim is to help businesses double their client base through this initiative.

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Your participation is important – together we can make a difference

To access an Application form visit www.apanetwork.com or phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 for further details.

#100 for Wellness

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biologicalscience

Immune-mediated response and its relevance to

by Gay Wardle In past issues of APJ I have presented articles as part of a three-part series on the immune system. As therapists who are working with the skin it is imperative that we understand the role of the immune system in supporting our efforts to optimise a well-balanced and healthy skin as part of our treatment objectives. In this article I would like us to take a closer look at skin manifestations that are the result of an imparted immune system and how they impact the skin's cellular structure.

We know that the skin is the largest organ of the body and that it is a barrier to protect our body from noxious influences from the environment. It is also a sensory organ, a metabolic organ and an immune organ all wrapped up into one. The skin contains all the necessary constituents that are needed to produce an immune response when called upon.

Langerhan cells, which are epidermal dendritic cells, reside immediately under the stratum corneum and represent an

SKIN DISEASES enormous part of our immune system, On the other hand keratinocytes, which are epidermal cells, produce cytokines and chemokines that play a very important role in any immune response.

The dermis, however, is home to many different types of lymphocytes and dendritic cells that have pathogen reaction pattern receptors. These receptors attract inflammatory cells such as neutrophil cells as well as other white-blood cells.

It is important to remember that the immune system never sleeps in a healthy skin. It’s constantly stimulated to stay in balance and always ready to mount an attack on pathogens when called upon.

Many factors can cause a disturbance that will disrupt the homeostatic balance of the skin's immune system. These could be as a result of natural intolerances against self-antigens, which is known as autoimmunity, or could even be by pathogenic immune reactions against foreign substances where maybe a protein that has caused an allergic skin disease.

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TYPES OF ALLERGENS When working on the skin it is important to understand how allergens effect the skin and their manifestations.

Let's take a look at some allergies and how the skin reacts to these allergens.

An allergy is defined as an immunologically mediated hypersensitivity reaction that can lead to disease. These reactions can be classified into several pathogenic types of immune reactions where different pathogens have caused responses.

Immediate hypersensitivity: This is where we see diseases such as urticarial lesions, which are classified as Type 1 allergens.

Urticarial lesions are defined as wheals or hives that appear on the skin's surface lasting for several hours and in some cases two to three days. The reaction is caused by histamine being released into the skin, causing itchiness, edema and vasodilatation. They may appear on any part of the body and are due to an allergic reaction of some kind. If the condition is present for longer periods of time, for example six weeks, then it is classified as an acute urticarial lesion. Generally speaking, urticarial lesions are associated with a food allergy.

These conditions respond well when treated with antihistamines and in a clinic the use of LED light and MLD are both very beneficial.

Thrombocytopenic purpura: This is a cytotoxic immune reaction. It is a classic Type 2 reaction in the skin, where antibodies against substances on the surface of platelets lead to thrombocytopenia and non-inflammatory purpura. It is not a common condition and is mainly caused by drugs. The condition is a bleeding disorder where the immune system destroys platelets, which are necessary for normal blood clotting.

Immune complex reactions: These are classified as type 3 allergens. Leukocytoclasticvasculitis is a condition that is associated with immune complex reactions.

Leukocytoclasticvasculitis may present as pustules, bullae, vesicles and urticarial plaques in the skin. Often itching, burning

and pain are associated with the condition. Apart from being localised to the skin the condition may be associated with systemic involvement.

Inflammation of small blood vessels and debris of neutrophil cells are symptoms of leukocytoclasticvasculitis. It is very difficult to pinpoint an exact cause, although it seems that allergies to drugs, food or food additives support the theory of the immune system playing the dominant role. Where there are single occurrences of skin lesions that disappear once the offending drugs or foods have been removed, the condition is labelled acute leukocytoclasticvasculitis. Manual lymphatic drainage, LED and massage would be the best treatment options for this condition.

Cellular hypersensitivity: Eczema and dermatitis come into this category. There are several types of eczema/dermatitis.

The classifications of eczema/dermatitis are varied, with allergic and irritant falling under the title of contact dermatitis. Intrinsic atopic eczema and extrinsic atopic eczema are under atopic eczema or atopic dermatitis.

Allergic contact dermatitis is the most common occupational disease in many countries. Intercellular edema in the epidermis is the easiest way to describe an allergic contact dermatitis. It is characterised by an itchy skin condition caused by an allergic reaction to an allergen that has been in contact with the skin. If the allergen that has caused the reaction is not identified the person may have persistent or relapsing dermatitis.

Characteristics of allergic contact dermatitis in the acute stages would manifest as pruritic papules and pustules that may develop up to one week or longer post contact with the allergen.

Look for things like nickel, rubber gloves, plants, hair dyes, henna tattoos or temporary tattoos, textiles, preservatives, fragrances, sunscreens, corticosteroids and many other chemicals that are the likely courses of allergic contact dermatitis.

The reactions begin when molecules that are chemically reactive bind with self-proteins to generate haptenisation. Haptens are

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able to penetrate through intact skin, although where there is an impairment in the barrier function patients have an increased risk of sensitisation. Haptens activate Toll-like receptors and activate innate immunity.

There is no miracle cream or pill that can help the condition, although basic treatments to help maintain the barrier function have been very helpful.

IN CONCLUSION Keratinocytes are crucial for the development of ACD as they express most Toll-like receptors that allow them to respond to haptens. Keratinocytes are also a source of interleukin 10, which is an immune-suppressive cytokine that can limit the extent of contact hypersensitivity. It is believed that the longer a person has severe dermatitis, the longer it will take to resolve the problem.

Atopic eczema: This is the most common inflammatory skin disease in childhood starting as early as six to 12 weeks of age, Although it also occurs in adulthood years. The condition manifests through extreme itchiness where the skin can be scratched so severely that it bleeds. Often bedclothes are bloody and the quality of life is highly disturbed.

The barrier function is disturbed, which most likely due to a mutation in the filaggrin gene. Filaggrin is a protein forming the cornified envelope that helps enable keratin filaments to attach to lipids in the corneum layer. So when filaggrin is defective the skin becomes dry and shows epidermal barrier dysfunction. The dysfunction is associated with a higher risk of atopic eczema.

Some would be causes for atopic eczema are house-dust mites, pollen, animals and foods. Parents with children suffering from the disease often go to many lengths in eliminating foods from the diets. Sadly this has caused more issues with malnutrition.

There is no other organ that shows a similar wide spectrum of different pathophysiological mechanisms as well as clinical manifestations of allergic reactions like the skin.

With more and more studies being done and more knowledge and understanding of this amazing organ the future of qualified aestheticians in this world will be very exciting as solutions can be identified.

Gay Wardle is a well-known multi-awarding-winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issues pertaining to skin science.

She is also a senior lecturer and part of the lecturing faculty at the Australasian College of Health and Wellness, which is delivering the Bachelor of Applied Health Science Clinical Aesthetics. Gay is passionate in helping salons and clinics optimise their treatment outcomes and her courses empower professionals to do just that. If you would like you and your staff to undertake training with Gay please see the training dates below and contact Gay on 0418 708 455 or book on-line www.gaywardle.com.au.

You can also email her on gay@m-da.com.au

Everything you need to know about the SKIN 3 DAYS OF POWER-PACKED EDUCATION

Day 1: Back to Basics Day 2: Advanced Skin Anatomy Day 3: Skin Disorders Professionals working with skin anatomy must remain on a relentless journey of lifelong learning to ensure that they continually equip themselves with the knowledge and skills that are required to deliver and perform current and cutting edge treatments. Gay Wardle's workshops and courses are designed to provide the participant with this knowledge and these skills. Education is the key to confidence in treatment planning, delivery and successful results for the client!

Day 1: Cell Biology, Cell Nutrition, Skin Anatomy (Transferring your knowledge of cell nutrition, cell biology and skin anatomy to design effective treatment plans).

Day 2: Ageing skin, acne, pigmentation, Immune system, Impact of hormones on the skin and much more.

Day 3: Rosacea, hyper-proliferative disorders, DNA disorders

Cost: 1 Day $350 2 Days $590 3 Days $780 TRAINING DATES SYDNEY: 11th, 12th & 14th July ADELAIDE: 25th, 26th July and 14th September MELBOURNE: 8th, 9th & 10th August GOLD COAST 21st, 22nd and 23rd November

Book on-line: www.gaywardle.com.au Phone: 0418 708 455 Email: gay@m-da.com.au

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Gay is an independent trainer and educator who loves sharing her knowledge and skills through advanced education on the skin. Her training assists businesses achieve better treatment outcomes and successfully address more challenging skin conditions. There will be absolutely no promotion of any skincare or equipment brands during these courses.

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APAN has the answer!

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Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) P: 07 5593 0360 | info@apanetwork.com

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cosmeticinjectables

KNOW THE LAW: Who Can Administer Cosmetic Injectables?

By Tina Viney As many practitioners within the aesthetics industry specialise in anti-ageing procedures they often find they can achieve the very best they can with the use of technology and various treatment strategies within the confines of their current education. However, many wish to proceed to injectables and feel they understand enough about their clients to be able to do so. We often have calls at APAN with aestheticians and nurses wanting to understand the law when it comes to injectables. However, the question really ought to be, who should inject injectables?

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The laws vary from State to State as to who is allowed to inject and with what amount of supervision, but injectables for cosmetic purposes are still classified as Schedule 4 Drugs that can cause significant problems that don't readily resolve. As a controlled substance, injectors should be physicians or under the direct supervision of physicians when injecting.

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The public has been warned to beware of injections being offered in places where an MD has put their name on a medical spa, but is

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never seen in person. These places often are operating under his/her name only, not his/her supervision.

Recently, a nurse in NSW who administered Botox and other cosmetic injections to clients at a day spa without a prescription and without medical supervision was found guilty of professional misconduct by the NSW Civil and Administrative Tribunal and had her licence suspended for three months (see details in Scientific News section of this journal).

In this article I would like to present some guidelines to help address these issues and provide some valuable information.

To protect the health of your clients or patients it is critical that business owners know and adhere to the Australian current laws that govern the administration of cosmetic injectables. While these laws may vary slightly from State to State there are still common guidelines that every business owner should be made aware of. To understand why these laws are in place let's first look at what constitutes cosmetic injectables and the risks associated with their use.

WHAT ARE COSMETIC INJECTABLES? Cosmetic injections are injectable substances used to reduce facial wrinkles and lines. They include: ! Dermal fillers and ! Botulinum toxin type A injections.

Dermal fillers include:

! ! ! ! !

Collagen (Collagen, Zyderm, Zyplast, CosmoPlast and Cosmoderm) Hyaluronic acid (Restylane, Perlane, Dermalive and Juvéderm) Hyaluronan or sodium hyaluronate (a form of hyaluronic acid – Hylaform) Polylactic acid (Newfill, Nufill, Sculptra) Polyacrylamide (Aquamid).

Botulinum toxin type A: These are commonly known by the trade names Botox® and Dysport®, and are a medicine that comes from the bacterium Clostridium botulinum. The botulinum toxin blocks the release of a neurotransmitter at a nerve terminal (or nerve ending), which results in localised muscle weakness or paralysis.

HOW ARE COSMETIC INJECTIONS USED? Dermal fillers are piped by injection to ‘fill’ the wrinkle, line or skin depression, producing a wrinkle-smoothing effect.

Botulinum toxin can be used in cosmetic procedures, despite the fact that one of the most serious complications of the toxin is paralysis. In cosmetic procedures, small, diluted amounts are directly injected into specific muscles causing controlled weakening of the muscles and smoothing wrinkles and facial creases.

Botulinum toxin is now commonly used to smooth frown, crow's feet (lines around the eye) and forehead lines. Wrinkles caused by sun damage and gravity will not respond to botulinum toxin. The cosmetic effects of most cosmetic injections are temporary.

THE DANGERS OF COSMETIC INJECTIONS The fact that the above cosmetic injections are a prescriptiononly medicine shows there is an element of danger associated

with its use. Safe use of these products requires proper medical oversight due to: ! risks from the medication itself ! risks from administration (injection) ! complexity of the conditions being treated.

WHAT ARE THE SIDE-EFFECTS OF USING BOTULINUM TOXIN? After having a cosmetic injection it is common to experience local pain, tenderness, and bruising. With any injection, there is a low risk of infection or allergic reaction.

The botulinum toxin can cause serious side-effects if it spreads past the muscle into which it has been injected. These sideeffects can include drooping eyelid, double vision, difficulty swallowing and speaking, general weakness and respiratory failure.

In rare instances deaths have occurred in patients who have used botulinum toxin and who have other significant illnesses.

COSMETIC INJECTIONS AND THE LAW Prescribing and administrating prescription-only medicines is controlled by the Poisons Act 1964 and Poisons Regulations 1965.

Only a medical practitioner or a nurse practitioner (with an approved Clinical Practice Guideline) may prescribe its use. The authorised prescriber must be lawfully practising their profession and acting within their professional scope of practice as set out by their State law.

GUIDELINES WHEN INTRODUCING COSMETIC INJECTABLE SERVICES IN YOUR BUSINESS Prior to contracting someone to deliver cosmetic injections in your premises or personally receiving services, it is strongly recommended that these checks be made to ensure the validity of both the authorising doctor and administering nurse.

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If any business or person refuses to supply you with the information required to check the registration, it is strongly recommended that you decline to engage with them and that the matter is reported to the Pharmaceutical Services Branch within your State. Here are the necessary guidelines: ! Treatment with cosmetic injections cannot be started without first having a consultation with an authorised medical practitioner or nurse practitioner. Only after this

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The notation will remain in place until the enrolled nurse provides evidence of having completed a Board-approved administration of medicines unit.

! ! ! ! !

is it legal for a Registered Nurse to administer a prescription medicine under the direction of that practitioner. If a consultation is not carried out, it is illegal for a Registered Nurse (or indeed anyone) to independently purchase, obtain, administer or supply prescription medicines.

To determine if a medical practitioner, nurse practitioner or nurse are qualified and registered, a check can be made by contacting the Australian Health Practitioner Regulation Agency (AHPRA) on 1300 366 424.

Ensure the cosmetic injection to be used is registered with the Therapeutic Goods Administration. All registered medicines must display an 'AUST R' number on the label as proof of registration.

Ensure practitioners use the necessary aseptic techniques to avoid contamination of sterile injection equipment.

Talk to the provider about his/her safe injection practice.

For example, healthcare providers should not use the same syringe on more than one patient, even if the needle is changed.

Injection bottles that are labelled as single-dose or single-use should be used for a single patient and single case/procedure/injection.

WHAT ABOUT ENROLLED NURSES AND MEDICINE ADMINISTRATION? Since the introduction of the National Registration and Accreditation Scheme there are no endorsements for administration of medicines by enrolled nurses.

The National Board changed this to recognise the growing number of enrolled nurses, including new graduates, who have the required education to administer medicines. In the interest of public protection, it is essential that enrolled nurses must only administer medicines if they have completed relevant medicine administration education units. Graduates from Board-approved enrolled nurse courses from the Approved program of study from 2008 onwards have completed relevant medicine administration units, covered as part of the curriculum.

The enrolled nurses who do not have the requisite education and competence to administer medicines were required to identify themselves to AHPRA and have the notation: Does not hold Board-approved qualifications in administration of medicines placed on their registration.

In order to have the notation does not hold a Board-approved qualification in administration of medicines removed, enrolled nurses with a notation must satisfactorily complete two essential Boardapproved units of study to administer medicine. These are: ! Analyse health information HLTAP501C (previously identified as HLTAP501A or HLTAP501B), and ! Administer and monitor medications in the work environment, HLTEN507C (previously identified as HLTEN507A and HLTEN507B).

HERE ARE THE CURRENT FIVE LEGAL STANDARDS FOR INJECTORS Only medical doctors and nurse practitioners may administer S4 cosmetic drugs. A nurse practitioner who performs cosmetic injectable treatments should have:

! ! ! ! !

Registration with AHPRA Current certification in cardiopulmonary resuscitation to restore normal heartbeat and breathing in the event of heart failure or other medical events.

Competency to manage emergencies such as anaphylactic reactions to drugs.

Appropriate training in safety and sterility protocols relevant to injections.

Training and certification for administration of each individual cosmetic product that is used. Product distributors and manufacturers, as well as organisations such as the Cosmetic Physicians Society and other medical groups that offer training programs for aesthetic nurses, may also provide training.

THE LEGAL ROLE OF A MEDICAL PRACTITIONER It is important to note that medical practitioners cannot simply hand off the use of cosmetic injectables to nurse practitioners. To operate in accordance with the law and avoid prosecution, doctors who supply S4 drugs to nurses must: ! Have a role in the clinical management of the patient ! Conduct a consultation with the patient either face-toface or through Skype or as directed by their State laws.

CONCLUSION The ever-growing demand for cosmetic injections continues to have a positive financial impact on medical practices and medispas. At the same time, however, the growth of blackmarket injectors has tarnished the image of the industry. It is in the interest of all professional providers to work together to ensure that the highest standards in care are not only met, but also surpassed.

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REFERENCES: WA Pharmaceutical Services Branch www.nursingmidwiferyboard.gov.au/documents/default.aspx?

Enrolled nurses and medicine administration

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medicalconference

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A5M 10 Anniversary Conference brings critically acclaimed speakers to Melbourne

Aesthetic Medicine professionals can hear firsthand from world leaders in the medical field about the latest techniques that can improve aesthetic outcomes at the AustralAsian Academy of AntiAgeing Medicine's (A5M) 10th Annual Conference, taking place on Saturday 6th and Sunday 7th August, at the prestigious Sofitel Melbourne on Collins.

medicine field the opportunity to come together and hear from world leaders about the latest evidence-based approaches and techniques to improve patient outcomes.

Attending this event will leave you with the skills, knowledge and tools not just to enhance your patients' outer beauty, but to ensure they feel great internally too, in turn building on your professional offering Marking its 10th anniversary, the A5M Conference, entitled 'Healthy to them.

Ageing and Personalised Medicine: Improving Patient th Outcomes', is the leading anti-ageing, integrative and preventative A5M's 10 Annual Conference provides the chance to network and medicine calendar event in the Asia-Pacific. Medical, allied health knowledge share with like-minded practitioners in the industry – a and aesthetic medicine professionals will join together in Melbourne great opportunity to form new connections and forge contacts for to network, discuss and learn about the latest patient treatments, business development. protocols and products to help their patients achieve better outcomes.

The Conference topics to be covered include: The A5M Annual Conference brings together the event's highest quality of speakers to date, representing a cross-section of local and international experts and leaders in their field, that you rarely get the opportunity to see together at one event.

Speakers this year include: International preventative medicine expert and President of the American College of Lifestyle Medicine Dr David Katz (US), natural therapies expert Dr Tom Guilliams (US) and nutraceuticals in aesthetic medicine expert Dr Nancy Steely (US). In addition, they will be joined by national talent that includes Australian facial plastics surgeon Dr Jayson Oates, lifestyle expert Professor Garry Eggers, genomic medicine expert Professor Michael Fenech, aesthetics educator Terry Everitt, clinical biochemist Warren Maginn, cosmetic surgeon Dr Mark Attalia, PRP and Stem Cell expert Dr Peter Lewis and many, many more.

The Conference is a key calendar event. It provides all professionals working in the integrative, preventative, anti-ageing and aesthetic

· · · · · · · · · · · · ·

Lifestyle factors and interventions for the management of disease Weight management, diets and nutrition Clinical Advancements in Aesthetic Medicine New research in Stem Cells and PRP Cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals Skin ageing: advances, treatments and procedures Preventative &integrative strategies The impact of chronic inflammation Genomic medicine Exercise Prescription Healthy ageing &wellbeing Brain ageing, interventions and management Environmental factors and interventions

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Reflecting on the past 10 years, Helen Anton, Director of A5M, says: “There have been many changes within the medical and aesthetic medicine profession, not only with advances in research, products and technologies available, but also patient expectations.

“We're now seeing our healthcare system moving from a sickness model to a wellness model, using the latest integrative, preventative, anti-ageing and aesthetic medicine methods to achieve better patient outcomes and a personalised medicine approach.

“The modern-day practitioner needs to have a working understanding of all methods in order to meet patient needs and be competitive in the market.”

The A5M Conference also marks the first time Dr David Katz will be in Australia! He is the leading international authority on nutrition, weight management and the prevention of chronic diseases, and the President of the American College of Lifestyle Medicine.

A recipient of numerous awards and recognitions, including being named as one of the 100 most influential people in health and fitness in the world by Greatist.com, Dr Katz is a keynote speaker not to be missed!

In addition to headlining the main Conference, Dr Katz will also be a part of the full-day Pre-Conference workshop to be offered on Friday 5 t h August – Lifestyle Interventions and a Personalised Approach to Healthy Ageing.

This will be a great opportunity, in a personal setting, to hear firsthand from Dr Katz, who will be joined by Dr Tom Guilliams from the Medical College of Wisconsin, and Australian Professor Michael Fenech of the University of South Australia, Flinders University and University of Adelaide, who is renowned internationally for developing the 'cytokinesis block micronucleus

assay', a new and comprehensive technique for measuring DNA damage, cytostasis and cytotoxicity in different tissue types.

Also running on Friday 5th August is an additional PreConference Workshop: Outer Beauty – A Reflection of Inner Health. This is a half-day workshop, focusing on the role of internal health and wellness in ageing and how to improve aesthetic outcomes. This workshop includes international expert from the US Dr Nancy Steely, with additional speakers to be announced soon.

This Pre-Conference workshop will demonstrate how the latest research in nutritional supplements and cosmeceuticals can enhance aesthetic practice, allowing you to incorporate healthy ageing with your aesthetic and cosmetic treatments and protocols.

You will review the theories of ageing and their impact on the skin and appearance and examine the role of hormones, detoxification, nutrition, metabolic disorders and chronic diseases in aesthetic medicine.

Not to be missed, it will be an opportunity to learn more about how to incorporate internal health and wellness with aesthetic practices and treatments. You will gain skills and knowledge, which you can apply to your daily activities, to better support treatments from the inside out and improve your bottom line!

A5M's 10th Annual Conference is set to be the best yet! By attending you will be part of a network dedicated to improving the ageing process and patient outcomes by ensuring their health and wellbeing, so beauty shines inside and out.

Registrations for the Pre-Conference workshop and Conference are now open. Please check the website www.a5m.net for additional information and to register.

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businessmatters

Why leaders LOSE THEIR WAY

By Tina Viney Whether you are running your own business or you are appointed as a manager for a company or a clinic, effective and well-trained leaders are paramount to ensure the team stays committed to reaching the agreed upon goals for the company’s success. Leaders are invaluable when it comes to formulating and communicating new strategic directions and motivating employees to increase dedication to the business's objectives and to ensure that the team is on track and moving in the right direction.

Many of you who run your own businesses may assume that role, while others have appointed someone else to take on that position while you move more into a supervisory role and concentrate on working on the business to develop its future direction. Regardless as to who takes this position, the role of the leader is crucial to the success of the business.

However, life being what it is things may not go as planned.

Experiencing negative changes and downfalls in a staff member is disruptive, but when this happens to a leader the results can be devastating. In this article I would like to explore the essential elements of a good leader, and contributing factors that can result in their downfall and ways to overcome them.

ESSENTIAL LEADERSHIP QUALITIES Before going into defining characteristics of a leader l want to define the difference between a leader and a manager. The main

difference between leaders and managers is that leaders have people follow them, while managers have people who work for them. A successful business owner needs to be both a strong leader and manager to get their team on board to follow them towards their vision and goals. On the other hand they may appoint a manager over their staff while they maintain the position of business leader.

Before we identify what can go wrong we need to first clearly understand the attributes and characteristics that define a good leader. While there are many they can all be summarised into four key groups: Values and Integrity: Many seek the power of leadership without realising the responsibilities that this position brings.

The most important qualities of a leader first and foremost lie in their values that are based on integrity and honesty with oneself.

How can others follow your guidance and be influenced by your direction if they don't trust you?

There is no doubt that the real key in effective leadership is humility, honesty and a commitment to high standards of integrity. These are the foundational values that define an effective leader. You have to reflect these values in your persona and in your leadership style. You may be an excellent communicator and an eloquent speaker, but ultimately your actions will demonstrate your true intentions and values, as will your respect of yourself and of others. In the end, actions will speak louder than words.

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Focus and resilience: Staying focused is a fundamental attribute to a successful leader. It requires discipline. Without personal discipline you cannot overcome distractions, achieve outcomes and reach goals. In the past it used to be that the leadership focus was on speed and flexibility. But the world has changed. In this constantly shifting landscape, where digital necessity and social-political shifts are commonplace and a sources of constant distraction, leaders have to remain focused and resilient. In a constantly changing business environment, being able to recover quickly and stay the course in the face of repeated challenges is crucial. Those who can achieve this and can quickly come to grips with complex shifts and assist others in moving forward to achieve the win are the masters of success.

Staying focused like a laser on your given purpose is so important, as whatever you concentrate on, you give strength and momentum to. Focus should also include staying on top of what is going on within your industry as well as what is current in business leadership philosophies and ideas. In the end, the ability to bloom in spite of adversities is the truest leadership test.

Overcoming slander: I believe this is an important one and so I have included it on its own. I have yet to meet a worthy leader– who has not had to deal with others misunderstanding them, or who has not had been confronted by vitriolic attacks – whether due to jealousy, misunderstandings or just due to sheer competition. When you work hard to build a reputation on honesty and integrity slander can hit you at the very core of who you are – your character. And that can be difficult to handle at times. However, retaliating can sometimes contribute to your downfall. It may give you short-term satisfaction, but ultimately it has the potential to distract you from your goals and weaken you, and that is exactly what your opponents want. When such attacks occur, you need to soul-search and assess the accusations against the facts.

Could you have done something differently to prevent this?

If yes, make the necessary changes, put the necessary procedures and policies in place and move on. Don't allow attacks to demoralise you or rob you of your energy. Sometimes all you need to do is to remain focused on your direction and true to your values and allow time to prove who was right and who was wrong. Indeed, time has a way of doing that.

emotions, by presenting information that will also touch their sense of values or ethos. Great leaders communicate by appealing to both – logic and the heart. They send their message in through an open door rather than trying to push it through a wall. Part of knowing your audience is based on your ability to listen and hear them. Communication can't always follow the top-down model, With the fluidity of information in business today, leaders need to be masterful listeners; they need to be able to receive as well as send, and they need to know what others are able to hear and understand from their message. This is as important as establishing policies and procedures. While having structured documentation in place is important, unless your staff really understand what all this is about and can relate to it, they are just letters on a piece of paper to them and it is only a matter of time when they will break the rules.

Recently, Mark Viney from APAN presented a lecture at two of our APAN Aesthetics Conferences on Understanding GenYs. This lecture was so successful that he took it to businesses in Adelaide and Darwin. Business leaders and managers were keen to learn all about how GenYs think and how to understand their rationale and language in order to succeed in communicating with them – whether they are staff members or clients. Indeed, each generation has its own "language" and value systems, and communication breakthrough cannot happen unless we understand each other.

WHAT CAUSES THE DOWNFALL OF LEADERS? Before writing this article I researched and studied carefully the downfall of many high-level leaders globally that have mysteriously lost their way. The accusations range from sexual assault, money embezzlement to false reports and numerous other activities that basically all come down to unethical

Good communicators: One of the key attributes in successful leadership is the ability to influence and persuade others. It all comes down to good communication skills. Most misunderstandings often come down to poor communication. Establishing clear communication pathways is the real work of leadership and sometimes this is a complex one.

This is because logic alone doesn't always succeed. You can reach people through logic by appealing to their sense of what is rational. But often you also need to appeal to their

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something inappropriate, or have they been on the slippery slope for years?

In these ongoing revelations, the media, politicians and the general public frequently characterise these leaders as bad people, even calling them evil. However, this can be a simplistic conclusion.

Leaders who lose their way are not necessarily bad people; rather, they lose their moral bearings, often yielding to seductions in their paths. Very few people go into leadership roles to cheat or do evil, yet we all have the capacity for actions we deeply regret unless we stay grounded. behaviour. These talented leaders were highly successful in their respective fields and at the peak of their careers. This makes their behaviour especially perplexing, raising questions about what caused them to lose their way. And so I set out to find a common thread. I asked myself, why do leaders known for integrity and leadership engage in unethical activities? Why do they risk great careers and unblemished reputations for such ephemeral gains?

Do they think they won't get caught or believe their elevated status puts them above the law? Was this the first time they did

DEFINING YOUR PURPOSE Before anyone takes on a leadership role they need to self-reflect and ask themselves, "Why do I want to lead?" and "What's the purpose of my leadership?" These questions are simple to ask, but finding the answers can help them establish and identify the values that will keep them grounded.

If your purpose is to make this world a better place, use your gifts to help others succeed and provide credible answers to consumer concerns, then define these credible objectives and put them down in writing to remind yourself when times get tough why you entered the game in the first place.

If the honest answers are power, prestige and money, leaders are at risk of relying on external gratification for fulfilment, and that is shaky ground. There is nothing wrong with desiring these outward symbols as long as they are combined with a deeper desire to serve something greater than oneself.

Leaders whose goal is the quest for power over others, unlimited wealth, or the fame that comes with success, tend to look to others to gain satisfaction, and often appear selfcentred and egotistical. They start to believe their own press.

As leaders they eventually believe the business or institution cannot succeed without them.

THE LEADERSHIP TRAP While most people value fair compensation for their accomplishments, few leaders start out seeking only money, power and prestige. However, success and prestige has a way of increasing the desire for more, whether this is money, attention or both. If this desire is strong it can lead to leaders breaching the ethical standards that previously governed their conduct, which can be bizarre and even illegal. In fact, very few people go into leadership to cheat or do evil.

A common trap is also the recognition and celebration that typically comes with achievement, and this has the potential to become intoxicating if you allow it.

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When leaders focus on external gratification instead of inner satisfaction they lose their grounding. Often they reject the honest critic who speaks truth to power. Instead, they surround themselves with sycophants who tell them what they want to hear.

Over time they are unable to engage in honest dialogue and others learn not to confront them with reality, and this is the perfect ground for corruption to occur.

There is another reason why a leader can revert to lowering their standards. To achieve a level of business or enterprise success often it takes sacrifices. Leaders often put in numerous hours of unpaid work – particularly if it is for their own business. They give up on some of their social activities, long weekends can amount to an extra day at the office, working through paperwork and strategic planning. There is a price to pay for success.

While they have willingly contributed to these activities due to their dedication to the cause and purpose of their business, it can be very disheartening when others take them for granted and show no appreciation. This can lead to resentment and this resentment can lead to compromising their values. They shut down their inner voice of conscience and start to act out of hurt rather than out of purpose.

Meanwhile, their work lives and personal lives get out of balance. They lose touch with those closest to them, their spouses, children and best friends, or co-opt them with their points of view. Eventually, they lose their capacity to think logically about important issues.

VALUE-CENTRED LEADERSHIP If as a leader you are in it for the long haul there are certain things you need to come to terms with. Leading is high-stress work.

There is no way to avoid the constant challenges of being responsible for people, business outcomes, not to mention the uncertainties and changes in the business environment. Leaders who move up have greater freedom to control their destiny, but also experience increased pressure and seduction.

So what do you need to have in place to avoid the pitfalls and survive?

I would have to say the most important element is to commit to your personal development and cultivate your inner compass.

Go back to your core values. Why did you take this position in the first place? Was it for external validation and recognition or was it for contribution?

We can't control when and if others recognise our efforts, so why become victims of their praise or appreciation? On the other hand, we can control how we feel about our sense of worth based on our values and purpose, which does not change. This is a much safer environment to draw from for validation and one we have greater control over.

When times are tough and we become disheartened we need to reframe our leadership from seeing ourselves as heroes or even victims to being servants of the people we lead. This process requires thought and introspection, because many people get into leadership roles in response to their ego needs. It enables them to transition from seeking external gratification to finding internal satisfaction by making meaningful contributions through their leadership.

Another important issue is maintaining one's equilibrium amid the many stresses of leadership requires discipline. Some people practise meditation or yoga to relieve stress, while others find solace in prayer, or taking long runs or walks. Still others find relief through laughter, music, television, sporting events and reading. Their choices can be many, but the objectives are the same – finding ways to relieve stress and enable them to think clearly about work, personal issues and staff. And ultimately, they need to stay focused on their values and purpose.

SUPPORT FOR VALUE-CENTRED LEADERSHIP The reality is that people cannot stay grounded by themselves.

Leaders depend on people closest to them to stay centred. They should seek out people who influence them in profound ways and stay connected to them. Often their spouse or partner knows them best. They aren't impressed by titles, prestige or wealth accumulation; instead, they worry that these outward symbols may be causing the loss of authenticity.

Spouses and partners can't carry this entire burden though. We need mentors to advise us when facing difficult decisions.

Reliable mentors are entirely honest and straight with us, defining reality and developing action plans. Industry experts who can provide a credible sounding board, believe in you and offer their support and recommendations are extremely valuable.

They should, however, be objective and knowledgeable and be in a position to give you credible, nonbiased advice. However, it is also important that you give them permission to not hold back from telling you the truth. This is very important, because we are not infallible. Sometimes we make mistakes. Take this big one as an example: Nitin Nohria reflects on Winston Churchill's devastating defeat at Gallipoli, which resulted in over 100,000 Allied casualties during World War I. “The campaign was a total fiasco for British military leadership," he notes. "When it was over, Churchill took complete responsibility. A setback like that could have been paralysing, but he was able to move forward to lead his country to victory in World War II”.

The lesson, says Nohria, is that Churchill and other great leaders are pragmatists who can deal with difficult realities but still have the optimism and courage to act. "Enduring setbacks while maintaining the ability to show others the way to go forward is a true test of leadership," he asserts.

John Kotter underscores the positive potential of facing problems head-on. "Great leadership does not mean running away from reality," he argues. "Sometimes the hard truths might just demoralise the company, but at other times sharing difficulties can inspire people to take action that will make the situation better.”

It is all an issue of personal honesty and integrity. Having the courage to acknowledge that you failed at something is part of growth and can help you gain a better grasp of a reality that you may have previously missed. This realisation may be the very thing that will allow you to move forward with a better understanding of what it takes to succeed.

In closing, I would like to say I have thoroughly enjoyed researching this subject and have understood a great deal about my own professional and personal journey. I hope you did too.

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memberprofile

Trailblazing Standards for

COSMETIC TATTOOING We love to brag about our members and their achievements, so in every issue of APJ we profile a business and tell their story, allowing them to share with us and our readers their achievements.

We also profile an individual who can be an inspiration to others.

From the feedback we are receiving members tell us that they love reading about these reports in the journal. While we try to randomly pick someone for every issue, please feel free to contact us if you feel your story is worth telling. As you can imagine, we cannot cover all our members, however, please feel free to let us know if you have something exciting to share.

In this issue we are profiling Christine Comans from WA. Christine is not just an amazing Cosmetic Tattooist, she is also an incredible achiever, who is making her mark in the industry as a strong inspirational voice that is championing the industry to pursue qualifications for what they do. In just a few years since training and gaining her qualifications in Cosmetic Tattooing she has been instrumental in helping raise awareness of why it is important for cosmetic tattooists to upgrade their training to a government-approved qualification, and also represents APAN with government bodies in WA. Christine practises what she preaches and is a wonderful role model to many who are contemplating the commitment to

advance their education. As a wife and mother of a young family, Christine manages to also run a business as well as study for a Bachelor's degree. There is a saying “Where there is a will there is a way", and Christine has found that to be true. We hope her story will inspire you.

APJ Q1: Christine, you originally owned beauty salons, what made you undertake Cosmetic Tattoo training?

At the time we had an ophthalmologist working out of one of our salons. She had moved into the area of cosmetic injectables and Fraxel laser, and she suggested that I train in Cosmetic Tattooing. I disregarded her suggestions, but she was insistent that I did what she said, even to the point of bringing in the training brochure. So I took her advice and proceeded with her suggestion, not realising that I had finally found my calling.

APJ Q2: In a short time you have advanced so much as an industry expert. Share with us your journey and why did you choose to specialise in Nipple Areola?

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Part of my initial training was in nipple areola, and it was that connection when my career path became self-propelled by others. The surgeons began referring patients to me, and the hospitals began contacting me. The move towards specialising in nipple areola was not instant. For the first 12 months was performing various cosmetic tattoo procedures as well as nipple

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This understanding has allowed me to write a training program to train industry colleagues, perform clinical trials for associated medical professionals and talk at an upcoming oncology conference, as well as work in a medical environment with plastic and reconstructive surgeons.

Most importantly it made me return to study – I am currently doing the Bachelor of Applied Health Science Clinical Aesthetics with the Australasian College of Health and Wellness, and what I have found most rewarding is that I can apply my knowledge to my work.

APJ Q4: You are passionate about qualifications as the base standard, why do you believe this is now a necessity?

A qualification is a must. I believe there is no other way or better option available that covers all the basic requirements needed for the introduction to this profession. A qualification ideally should be the first and only option available to beginners, with all short courses being post-graduate. Our profession has many complexities, and the two-day training options currently available to beginners are just not enough to provide the skills and knowledge required to proceed with confidence in the workplace. Within two days there is only so much that can be covered. This is fine if you are fine-tuning or learning a new technique, but it is grossly inadequate if you are launching someone into a new profession.

APJ Q5: How do you believe that the new classification Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) is changing the industry and what benefits is it offering the practitioners?

The new CTARP classification is very exciting as it allows the public to have confidence in choosing a practitioner that holds a qualification. A CTARP practitioner has provided evidence of their qualifications and has committed to maintaining the highest standards in the industry through adherence to both the industry Code of Conduct as well as the CTARP Code of Ethics.

These codes set the highest standard that we have in the industry for both trainers and practitioners. It gives us a voice, as we are not just a club or a membership, we have met a registration process standards that in the absence of regulations sets out certain requirements that each cosmetic tattooist must agree to follow through an industry-specific Self-regulatory Code.

APAN is working closely with government regulatory bodies supporting the need for regulatory reform that better suits the aesthetics industry. While every practitioner must abide by their State regulatory requirements, this course can be of value to you to assist you in gaining a more in depth understanding of topical anaesthetics, their mechanism, safety considerations and contraindications.

In 2015 this course was conducted face-to-face however, there were numerous expressions of interest for the course to be made available through distance learning. We are pleased to offer the on-line version of it.

PART 1: INTRODUCTION TO THE SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS FOR COSMETIC PURPOSES The course is delivered by Compound Pharmacist Chris Testa, who is the owner and manager of Tugun Compounding Pharmacy, on the Gold Coast. Chris is also a highly respected lecturer on the topic of pharmaceutical compounding and the regulatory aspects of compounding which he delivers at the School of Pharmacy, Griffith University.

Learning Objectives include:

! An historical perspective ! A regulatory overview ! How topical anaesthetics work ! Different types of anaesthetics ! How topical anaesthetics are absorbed and metabolised ! Medication, supplements and !

medical conditions that affect the use of topical anaesthetics Introduction to the advanced training course

Chris Testa B. Bus., B. Pharm.

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This course will qualify for Continued Education Points towards the new registration – APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner.

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Christine Comans is the owner of MediTatt and also an accredited Cosmetic Tattoo trainer. If you would like to speak to Christine about training in Cosmetic Tattooing, or any other concerns you can reach her on Ph: 0419 965 933 or email her on comanschristine@gmail.com

Understanding anaesthetics is paramount to the comfort of our clients or patients and the medium to ensure this is topical anaesthetics. While there are regulatory restrictions in the use of topical anaesthetics it is imperative that every practitioner who delivers treatments such as skin needling, cosmetic tattoo, or uses devices such as fraxel or various levels of lasers gains a thorough scientific understanding of the different anaesthetics included in numbing creams, how they are metabolised in the body and ways to ensure the safety of their use on a case-by-case basis.

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This area has allowed me to have an understanding of the breastcancer journey that these women have endured and better understand the types of surgeries, reconstructions adjuvant treatments and other associated issues that personally affect them both physically and emotionally.

Now available through distance learning

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APJ Q3: What opportunities has this area of work opened up to you?

APAN Accredited TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS Course

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areolas, but as my referrals increased I just moved away from faces and entirely focused on referrals. It was where my passion was lying and the work just kept on coming.

A DV To register please visit E I S O RY N www.apanetwork.com and complete a Online Registration Form.

Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network Email: info@apanetwork.com | Phone: 07 5593 0360 APJ 67

APAN

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Sharing Wound Healing Secrets

By Christine Comans As cosmetic tattooists, we’re always in the search for little tips and tricks that will help improve our healing results. Back in 2014 a short while after completing a patient’s nipple areola tattooing procedure I had the unfortunate experience of that patient calling me, approximately a week after her tattooing, stating that she thought she had an infection. Immediately I told her she should see her GP, but offered to see her also to assess and see what had gone wrong, as not one of my patients to date has ever had an infection, so this was something I wanted to investigate further.

When my patient arrived and after checking the tattoo site it was evident that she didn’t have an infection, in fact, her tattoo had scabbed, and the scabs had all come away. However, there were some hard, crusty pieces still attached and that skin looked red and inflamed.

The product is called Stratamed – it produces faster reepithelialisation of the wound bed. Once applied to the skin this hydrophobic silicone film creates a protective, semi-occlusive barrier to improving hydration of the injured skin. This protective environment simulates faster migration of keratinocytes in the wound and supports an effective re-epithelisation for improved healing, which decreases the incidence of abnormal scarring.

Applying Stratamed after your cosmetic-tattooing procedure creates a normalising of the skin's inflammatory response because it forms a protective sheet that is semi-occlusive and gas permeable that bonds to the affected skin and protects it from microbial invasion. The polymers have no pH value, and therefore do not affect newly forming epithelial tissues.

Application produces a reduction in the inflammatory response to redness, discomfort, pain and itching.

This patient confirmed she didn’t follow my aftercare instructions because she was a busy sales rep and didn’t have the time. This I have been using this product for two years as part of my aftercare unfortunate incident sent me searching to improve compliance protocols, and I can confirm it produces superior, healed cosmetic-tattoo results compared to anything else I have tried. and mitigate any future patient’s non-compliance with aftercare.

STRATAMED One of my dear friends who owns a skin clinic suggested that I speak with someone she knew that sold wound-healing products.

During our meeting I was told Royal Perth Hospital – Burns Unit use this product because it is a full-contact, flexible wound dressing, which promotes faster wound healing and normalises the inflammatory response, while also protecting compromised skin from microbial and bacterial invasion. The application of this product significantly reduces the likelihood and severity of abnormal scarring.

It’s perfect to use on brows, lips, eyeliner and most other cosmetic tattooing services as an effective aftercare protocol, and when you try it you will notice the improvement in colour retention in the skin.

CLINICAL TRIAL Soon I will be undertaking a clinical trial to show the differences between Stratamed healed results compared to the results using a different aftercare protocol, and on completion I look forward to sharing my outcomes with you, so stay tuned.

For further information on Stratamed please contact Immediately I was excited and couldn’t wait to try it. It especially appealed to me to use after tattooing because it is the first filmSTRATPHARMA Phone: 1800 567 007. forming, silicone-based wound dressing approved for use on open wounds and compromised skin, which makes it perfect for use Here are some images of my lip tattoo process using after cosmetic tattooing.

StrataMed as the aftercare:

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companyprofile

THE GLOBAL BEAUTY GROUP

Celebrating five years of success Statistics are showing that now more than ever non-surgical aesthetic procedures are simply becoming the ‘normal’ thing to do so, it’s no surprise that The Global Beauty Group has gone from sheer strength-tostrength since springing on to the professional beauty and aesthetics scene in 2011.

Bubbling with a fresh perspective on what was missing in the market, CEO and Cofounder Kane Hammond set out to form what is regarded by many salons, spas, clinics and practice managers as the number one aesthetic and medical-grade devices and skincare company.

So to what does The Global Beauty Group attribute its success? “We do so much more than just sell aesthetic equipment and skincare,” Kane explains.

“We provide a solid support network and resources for real growth and expansion for businesses – from those who are entering the industry or trying to get ahead right through to established, prestigious salons and spas looking for beneficial long-term partnerships.”

Aside from doing all the hard work for us by searching the globe for the latest, cutting-edge innovations in aesthetics and delivering them right to our treatment rooms, The Global Beauty Group is famed in the industry for upholding a truly gold-standard level of customer service that encompasses comprehensive training programs for purchased devices and a wealth of personalised marketing resources for their clients to utilise. These include everything from brochures to posters and even social media support. Then there’s the ongoing operational support to ensure the day-to-day running of your treatment room is a breeze. And you get all of this just for buying a microdermabrasion or IPL machine from The Global Beauty Group? “Absolutely!” affirms Kane. Say no more, Kane – we hear you loud and clear!

If you are seeking to benefit from both products and services from a reputable supplier please contact THE GLOBAL BEAUTY GROUP. T 1300 006 607 / W www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au

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It’s our mission to make people feel wonderful We do this by providing all beauty salons with the opportunity to experience the latest in cutting-edge beauty technology with an emphasis on quality and innovation at the best possible price. Our extensive equipment range, flexible financing and personalised customer service ensures each and every client feels they are receiving the very best that the industry has to offer.

Phone 1300 006 607 or enquire online by visiting www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au

VenusConcept delivering the promise

ingredientscience

How well do you know your SKINCARE?

By Terry Everitt As a skincare professional others come to you for your professional recommendations as to what will best suit their needs. As an expert it is important that you base your decision on the choices you recommend on sound scientific information. Terry Everitt is a well-known expert in skin

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science and ingredients. In this article he questions the validity of marketing statements over scientific evidence.

Thought-provoking and sometimes challenging, this article will help you establish a sound mindset in how you evaluate your skincare products.

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There is no doubt that the so called ‘anti-ageing’ market is a vast one. Gaining control over ageing has been an ambition for many decades, and today perhaps more than ever before. The accessibility to cosmetic surgeries and the ever-increasing array of non-surgical cosmetic treatments all play their part in the retreat of age, or at least the appearance of such.

You may tend to think of anti-ageing referring to a movement that redefines ageing as a target for biomedical intervention, or perhaps a movement that reflects a shift from ageing as a natural process to that of ageing as a process that is met with increasing cultural disdain, and one that should be remedied.

There is much anxiety about showing the effects of ageing, and while we have seen exponential growth in anti-ageing medicine and products, the behaviours and attitudes of the consumers of these products seem to suggest there is much socio-cultural pressures on the individual that results in body dissatisfaction.

For many of our clients, despite the bevy of anti-ageing skincare formulations available to them, men and women hoping to undo the damage caused by the years, and most certainly exacerbated by years of excess sun exposure, or other lifestyle choices, remain generally unsatisfied.

They are being intimidated by the vastness of the anti-ageing skincare landscape and cynical about the results that these products can help achieve. This is in part because for every product that has generated an improvement in their skin, there are several more that have done absolutely nothing.

YOUR RESPONSIBILITY You as a skincare professional have a responsibility and a large part to play in the education of your clients. You understand the important role that proper skincare plays in improving the appearance of ageing skin. You play a vital role in helping clients understand the factors that influence the extent to which improvements can be generated, including the significance of the ageing characteristics they wish to improve and their willingness to implement your recommended skincare program.

To do this successfully requires knowledge of the quality of the formulation and efficacy of the ingredients within the products you recommend.

Knowing what ingredients work and why requires much more than the sales representative telling you ‘they work’. We are constantly bombarded with the latest and most revolutionary new active ingredient that holds the promise of flawless skin.

While some of these are backed by valid, third-party studies, many are not. It is not up to the client to research formulations and cosmetic ingredients – that is your area. An area of expertise that can bring great benefits not only to your clients, but also to your business in providing satisfactory results in their search of great skin.

Why are you using the products you are using? Have you asked yourself this? If so perhaps the next question should be, how often have you asked yourself this? Do you really believe the products you are using are the best you can use for your client target market?

For many it will be the ingredients that have stood the ‘test of time’ – they may not be the latest thing, yet they hold success in their delivery of good skin.

EXAMINING THE FORMULA The time-tested basics might not seem to be ‘up-to-date’, however, having the correct dose and chemical formula of Vitamins A, B and C are a wonderful scaffold to base other ingredients on. Of course not any A, B or C will do – it must be in the correct formulation and structure to be effective. Much of the efficacy of an ingredient has to do with the percentage of the actives, how it interacts within the formulation, and if it is in a structure that can actually penetrate the skin. Sadly, many products advertise dramatic results, but the evidence-based science to support these claims remains limited.

Advances in molecular biology provide a more detailed understanding of how the cellular biochemistry works and the introduction of an array of ingredients such as peptides, growth factors and stem cells.

Great interest is in the world of peptides. However, most are far too big to get into the skin. Peptide fragments are slightly different and better to work with, with many used to stimulate the synthesis of what becomes collagen and the integrity of the dermal matrix.

As an example, KTTKS [lysine-threonine-threonone-lysineserine] is a time-tested pentapeptide that while a short amino acid chain, had a regulatory activity greater than the chain would suggest. There has been much research about this and other peptides short chains that show they actually work.

Although stem cell science is exciting, this area of research still has a long way to go as far as skin rejuvenation is concerned.

Stem cells found in skincare products are plant-based (not human); the skin is not great at synthesising chlorophyll so plant cells will not do much good. Humans are not plants – their chemistry is very different.

Even if you had stem cells derived from humans (which you do not get in skincare products), these stem cells would not be able to penetrate deep enough into the skin’s dermis to take action.

Even if they did get into the skin, the cells would not be effective by the time they made it from the lab and the packaging facility to your skin. They simply cannot survive in a cream that sits on a shelf for weeks or years. Stem cells are living cells and do not work covered in emollients and other ingredients making up the total product. I am hopeful that stem cells will become part of our fight against skin ageing sometime in the future. At present however, it is not possible to have stem cells in a skincare

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target in the skin over a time course consistent with its mechanism of action?

2. Does the active ingredient have a known specific biochemical mechanism of action in the target cell or tissue in human skin?

3. Are there published, peer-reviewed, double-blind, placebocontrolled, statistically significant, clinical trials to substantiate the efficacy claims?

While question three takes a lot of time to be known, be wary of studies produced by the product manufacturer – obviously an inherent bias at work. Do not simply believe what you are told – ask how does it ‘do what it is supposed to do’ (and expect specific answers).

No matter what is in the product, nothing will work as an ‘antiageing’ product more than sunblock; not sunscreen. They provide protection against the most important factor for skin ageing: exposure to sunlight.

product. Many advances have been made and will continue to be made in the field of medicine with stem cells – remember they are living cells, so how could they live in a product? Having said that, however, there is a possibility, but it comes at great cost.

In the USA, I do know of one company that is working with autologous skincare products. The company extracts stem cells from your own fat and uses them to create a face cream based on your own growth factors and cytokines mixed with other ingredients such as green tea extract, caffeine and vitamins. $3,000 for the initial procedure, which includes frozen storage for a cache of mesenchymal stem cells grown from those harvested from the patient. In addition, clients pay $500 to $800 for each bottle of cream they purchase.

Even here it is not stem cells in the cream – what is possible is the stem cells products, growth factors and cytokines. This is a big area of research and development.

There are literally thousands of individual growth factors and cytokines (which act as chemical messengers). Growth factors play a key role in the regulation of many physiological processes, such as cell division, differentiation, adhesion and cell survival. There have been many attempts to get the balance correct and after a lot of false starts there is now limited placebo, double-blind clinical trials completed that show great promise.

With so many products out there, all professing to do wonders for the skin, one way or another, what can you do to distil some truth in the advertising claims. Remember most are cosmetics and do not have to undergo the rigours that drugs need to go through to show effectiveness. Don’t be fooled by the cosmeceutical claim either – it is a marketing term that has no basis in factual proof.

Ultimately you can ask three major questions of a new ‘miracle’ ingredient or product: 1. Can the active ingredient penetrate the stratum corneum (SC) and be delivered in sufficient concentrations to its intended

They must be broad spectrum, that is, they must protect from both UVA and UVB. (Sunscreens only need to protect in the UVB range.) The photo-protection is ‘physical’ when the product contain reflective agents such as zincoxide or titanium dioxide. These substances are inert and present a lower possibility of causing allergic reactions than the so-called ‘chemical’ photo-protectants.

Much has been said about the reduction of vitamin D levels with the use of broad spectrum sunblocks – in theory it would seem to be true, however, not in practice.

Several studies have demonstrated that sunscreen/block products are rarely applied correctly, in the right dosages and with appropriate frequency. Did you know the standard for application of sunscreen is 2 mg/2 cm. In practice only about 25% to 50% of that amount is applied. This results in a protection factor of 8 to 15 when using a sunscreen labelled 30 SPF. A myriad of new ingredients will continue to flood the market.

When assessing the validity of a product’s claims, and whether it is a safe and efficacious addition to your facility’s offerings and your professional reputation, rely on science – not marketing – to make informed decisions.

Results will ultimately depend upon the client's dedication to implementing your recommended skincare protocol. Much of this compliance will come from your logical and, hopefully, evidence-based knowledge of how the product’s ingredients work in promoting skin health.

Terry Everitt is regarded as a Master Skin Care Professional due to his extensive knowledge of the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator who continues to lecture from an evidence-based scientific background. We recommend that you try and catch him lecturing on the subject of Glycation at the A5M Conference, August 6/7 in Melbourne. Terry remains the Senior Lecturer at the Australasian College of Health and Wellness and Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd.

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productperformers

Tips for Better BUSINESS Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

RESEARCH-PROVEN TRICKS THAT MAKE YOU SEEM SMARTER THAN YOU ARE When you are in the service industry part of the reason why consumers access your services is because they value your knowledge and opinion. For this you need to stay well-educated and informed. However, how well do you reflect that you are intelligent to others? Expert tell us that that your perceived intelligence is not just dependent on your brain, but also what you reflect as an individual.

As it turns out, intelligence only explains about 20% of how you do in life; much of the other 80% comes down to emotional intelligence (EQ). EQ is a skill that’s so important that 90% of top performers in the workplace have high EQs, and people with high EQs make $28,000 more annually than those with low EQs. The hallmark of emotional intelligence is self-awareness, which involves not just knowing who you are, but also how other people perceive you. People with high emotional intelligence are masters of influence – they’re skilled at altering their behaviour to make the most of a given situation. You might not be able to alter your genetics, but there are some proven strategies that can help you appear to be smarter. Some of these strategies seem arbitrary, but research shows they make a massive difference. That makes this good information to have, especially when you need to sway someone to your way of thinking. Here are some of the suggestions that experts recommend: Use a middle initial: John F. Kennedy. Franklin D. Roosevelt. It turns out there might be a reason that so many people who hold a prominent place in history used a middle initial. Not only does using a middle initial enhance your perceived social status, it also boosts expectations of intelligence capacity and performance. In one study, participants were asked to read and rate Einstein’s essay on the theory of relativity, with authorship being attributed to either David Clark, David F. Clark, David F. P. Clark, or David F. P. R. Clark. Not only did David F. Clark get higher ratings than David Clark, David F. P. R. Clark outdid

them all. In another study, participants were asked to choose team members. For academic competitions, people who used middle initials were selected more frequently than those who didn’t. (It was quite a different story for athletic competitions.)

So, if you want a quick perceived IQ boost, start using that middle initial.

Make graphs: Research conducted at Cornell suggests that people are more likely to trust a source if it contains graphs. In one of the Cornell studies, participants read a document on the effectiveness of a new cold medication. One report contained a graph; the other didn’t. Other than that, they were exactly the same. Still, 96% of the participants who read the report with a graph believed the claims, while only 67% of those who read the document without a graph thought the same. So, next time you create a document, stick in a graph. It doesn’t have to be complex; it just has to be accurate.

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Skip that drink: And that’s not just because people tend to do stupid things when they’ve been drinking. A joint study conducted by the University of Michigan and the University of Pennsylvania revealed that merely seeing someone hold a drink is enough to make them seem less intelligent. It’s not that we assume less intelligent people are more likely to drink; it’s that the perceived correlation between drinking and cognitive impairment is so strong that we assume impairment even if there isn’t any. For example, although job candidates frequently think

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that ordering a glass of wine over a dinner interview will make them appear intelligent and worldly, it actually makes them come across as less intelligent and less hireable. There’s even a name for it: the “imbibing idiot bias.”

Believe in yourself: Nothing projects intelligence quite like confidence. When you believe in yourself it shows, and research shows that believing in yourself improves your performance on cognitive tasks. Self-doubt, on the other hand, impairs your performance. What’s worse is that other people pick up on this doubt, which makes you appear less intelligent to them. If you want people to believe in you, you have to believe in yourself.

Write simply: If you’re really smart, you shouldn’t have to use big words to broadcast it. True intelligence speaks for itself, so you don’t have to show off your impressive vocabulary. In addition, you always run the chance of being wrong. Using a big word incorrectly makes you look, well, not so smart. So, if you want to appear more intelligent, stop studying the dictionary and just focus on communicating effectively.

Speak expressively: Communication expert Lleonard Modinow makes the case that even if two people say exactly the same thing, the one who says it most expressively will be perceived as being smarter. "If two speakers utter exactly the same words, but one speaks a little faster and louder and with fewer pauses and greater variation in volume, that speaker will be judged to be more energetic, knowledgeable and intelligent,” Mlodinow said. If you want to come across as more intelligent, modulate your speech by varying your pitch, volume, speed and energy level.

Look 'em in the eye: We know we’re supposed to do this anyway – it’s good manners, right? That’s true, but it also makes you look smarter. In a study conducted at Loyola University, participants who intentionally managed their eye contact scored

significantly higher on perceived intelligence.

Wear nerd glasses: Did your mum ever tell you to be nice to the nerds, because you’ll probably be working for them someday?

As usual, mum was on to something. Research shows that people wearing glasses – especially thick, full-framed ones – are perceived as being more intelligent. So, if you want to seem smarter (when you’re giving a presentation, perhaps?), leave the contacts at home and wear your glasses.

Keep pace with the crowd: I mean this one literally. I know it may sound silly, but research conducted at Boston University shows that it’s true. It’s called the “timescale bias”, and it refers to our tendency to attribute greater intelligence – based on mental attributes like consciousness, awareness, and intention – to people who do things at about the same speed as everyone else. If you want to look smarter you need to stop dawdling, but you also need to stop scurrying around like some crazed robot.

Dress for success: This one should be no surprise. Extensive research shows that how you dress affects how people see you.

Dressing well makes you seem more intelligent, and showing skin makes you seem less intelligent, as it directs people’s attention to your body rather than to your mind. But did you know that how you dress also affects your performance? A recent study by Northwestern University found that making people wear lab coats improved their performance in tasks that required intelligence and concentration.

BRINGING IT ALL TOGETHER Intelligence (IQ) is fixed at an early age. You might not be able to change your IQ, but you can definitely alter the way people perceive you. When it comes to succeeding in the real world, perception is half the battle.

Ref: TalentSmart Imotional Intelligence 2.0

BAD HABITS YOU MUST BREAK TO BE MORE PRODUCTIVE Nothing sabotages your productivity quite like bad habits. They are insidious, creeping up on you slowly until you don’t even notice the damage they’re causing. Bad habits slow you down, decrease your accuracy, make you less creative and stifle your performance. Getting control of your bad habits is critical, and not just for productivity’s sake. A University of Minnesota study found that people who exercise a high degree of self-control tend to be much happier than those who don’t, both in the moment and in the long run.

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“By constant self-discipline and self-control you can develop greatness of character.” – Grenville Kleiser

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Some bad habits cause more trouble than others, and the nine that follow are the worst offenders. Shedding these habits will increase your productivity and allow you to enjoy the positive mood that comes with increased self-control.

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Impulsively surfing the Internet: It takes you 15 consecutive minutes of focus before you can fully engage in a task. Once you do, you fall into a euphoric state of increased productivity called flow. Research shows that people in a flow state are five times more productive than they otherwise would be. When you click out of your work because you get an itch to check the news, Facebook, a sport’s score, or what have you, this pulls you out of flow. This means you have to go through another 15 minutes of continuous focus to re-enter the flow state. Click in and out of your work enough times and you can go through an entire day without experiencing flow.

Perfectionism: Most writers spend countless hours brainstorming their text, whether it is a newsletter or a plot, and write far more than they know they will use. They do this because they know that ideas need time to develop. We tend to freeze up when it’s time to get started because we know that our ideas aren’t perfect and what we produce might not be any good.

But how can you ever produce something great if you don’t get started and give your ideas time to evolve? Author Jodi Picoult summarised the importance of avoiding perfectionism perfectly: “You can edit a bad page, but you can’t edit a blank page.”

Meetings: Meetings gobble up your precious time like no other.

Ultra-productive people avoid meetings as much as humanly possible. They know that a meeting will drag on forever if they let it, so when they must have a meeting they inform everyone at the onset that they’ll stick to the intended schedule. This sets a clear limit that motivates everyone to be more focused and efficient.

Responding to e-mails as they arrive: Productive people don’t allow their e-mail to be a constant interruption. In addition to checking their e-mail on a schedule, they take advantage of features that prioritise messages by sender. They set alerts for their most important customers, and they save the rest until they reach a stopping point in their work. Some people even set up an autoresponder that lets senders know when they’ll be checking their e-mail again.

Hitting the snooze button: When you sleep your brain moves through an elaborate series of cycles, the last of which prepares you to be alert at your wake-up time. This is why you’ll sometimes wake up right before your alarm clock goes off – your brain knows it’s time to wake up and it’s ready to do so.

When you hit the snooze button and fall back asleep you lose this alertness and wake up later, tired and groggy. Worst of all, this grogginess can take hours to wear off. So no matter how tired you think you are when your alarm clock goes off, force yourself out of bed if you want to have a productive morning.

Multitasking: Multitasking is a real productivity killer.

Research conducted at Stanford University confirms that multitasking is less productive than doing a single thing at a time. The researchers found that people who are regularly bombarded with several streams of electronic information cannot pay attention, recall information or switch from one job to another as well as those who complete one task at a time.

When you try to do two things at once your brain lacks the capacity to perform both tasks successfully.

But what if some people have a special gift for multitasking?

The Stanford researchers compared groups of people, based on

their tendency to multitask and their belief that it helps their performance. They found that heavy multi-taskers – those who multitasked a lot and felt that it boosted their performance – were actually worse at multitasking than those who liked to do a single thing at a time. The frequent multitaskers performed worse because they had more trouble organising their thoughts and filtering out irrelevant information, and they were slower at switching from one task to another. Ouch!

Putting off tough tasks: We have a limited amount of mental energy, and as we exhaust this energy our decision-making and productivity decline rapidly. This is called decision fatigue.

When you put off tough tasks until late in the day because they’re intimidating, you save them for when you’re at your worst. To beat decision fatigue, you must tackle complex tasks in the morning when your mind is fresh.

Using your phone, tablet or computer in bed: This is a big one that most people don't even realise harms their sleep and productivity. Short-wavelength blue light plays an important role in your mood, energy level and sleep quality. In the morning, sunlight contains high concentrations of this blue light. When your eyes are exposed to it directly, the blue light halts production of the sleep-inducing hormone melatonin and makes you feel more alert. In the afternoon the sun's rays lose their blue light, which allows your body to produce melatonin and start making you sleepy.

By the evening your brain doesn’t expect any blue-light exposure and is very sensitive to it. Most of our favourite evening devices – laptops, tablets, televisions, and mobile phones – emit short-wavelength blue light, and in the case of your laptop, tablet and phone, they do so brightly and right in your face. This exposure impairs melatonin production and interferes with your ability to fall asleep, as well as with the quality of your sleep once you do nod off. As we’ve all experienced, a poor night’s sleep has disastrous effects upon productivity. The best thing you can do is to avoid these devices after dinner (television is OK for most people as long as they sit far enough away from the set).

Eating too much sugar: Glucose functions as the “gas pedal” for energy in the brain. You need glucose to concentrate on challenging tasks. With too little glucose you feel tired, unfocused and slow; too much glucose leaves you jittery and unable to concentrate. Research has shown that the sweet spot is about 25 grams of glucose. The tricky thing is that you can get these 25 grams of glucose any way you want, and you’ll feel the same – at least initially. The difference lies in how long the productivity lasts. Donuts, soda and other forms of refined sugar lead to an energy boost that lasts a mere 20 minutes, while oatmeal, brown rice and other foods containing complex carbohydrates release their energy slowly, which enables you to sustain your focus.

While some of these habits may seem minor, however, they do add up. Most amount to a personal choice between immediate pleasures and lasting ones. After all, the worst habit is losing track of what really matters.

Ref: Bad habits you must break for more productive by Dr Travis Bradberry

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SIX INTERVIEW TIPS YOU NEVER HEARD BEFORE With all the free career advice available online today, it's easy to search "interview tips" and get a ton of information. There's really no excuse for going to an interview unprepared any more.

That being said, there are still plenty of people who go to interviews totally unprepared.

They think because an expert has written their CV that that is enough to get them the job.

What a waste of an opportunity. With studies showing you have just a 3% chance of getting a call for an interview, wouldn't you want to increase the likelihood you succeed so you can get the job offer? There's a lot of preparation that goes into nailing interviews.

When it comes to making the right impression, here are proven tips that will make the process not just fun, but will also increase your chance of getting the job.

1. Do you really want this job? It's amazing, but often business owners tell me that they are interviewing people who seem to have no particular interest in the job they are applying for. Make sure you find out as much as possible about the position and determine if you would really love to work there. Does the prospect of working for that clinic or business excite you? Will it allow you to grow your skills and knowledge and further your career?

2. Be particularly nice to the receptionist. The front-desk team is the eyes and ears of the company. They have conversations with people at all levels of the organisation. Businesses will often ask the receptionist and other staff member they trust what they thought of you when you came in? By being friendly and striking up a positive greeting with the front-desk staff member you have a better chance of them putting in a good word for you.

3. Read a paperback of a business book in the waiting area.

While waiting in reception, put your phone a way and pull out a business book. People will notice the title you're reading and it can lead to a great opening conversation when the hiring manager comes to get you. It also shows you make good use of your spare time. Here are two brand-new books on the market

that would work. Originals by Professor Adam Grant, and The Art of People by Dave Kerpen. Both of these books are getting rave reviews and focus on teamwork and how to be a better professional.

4. Assume you are already hired. What many interviewees don't understand is that some of the most endearing qualities that will make you stand out is to ask questions of the interviewer about the company. Show interest in what is important to them.

Do your homework and identify the products and services they provide and express enthusiasm to learn and be part of their team. Reflect that you are ready to help the business reach its goals and to be a productive member of their team. Show passion and that you consider it a privilege to be given the opportunity to be part of their business environment.

5. Give the company a post-interview "shout out" on social media. While you don't want to act desperate and post something like, "Just had a great interview with XYZ clinic!�

Post something positive like "I learnt today that XYZ clinic has a 95% satisfaction rating with its clients. That's impressive!" Be sure to link to the company's social account so they see it in their feed. Lots of employees follow their company's accounts to stay on top of what's happening. And, if the hiring team follows up on the interview by checking out your social-media profiles (and they will!), they'll see you gave the company some social love.

You don't need to be perfect, you need to be prepared Research the business, identify their philosophy and values and reflect those as your own during the interview. Dress neatly and professionally. Your jewellery needs to be understated but quality. Speak clearly and precisely and don't hesitate to ask questions that demonstrate you are interested in what the company wants to achieve. Smile and communicate positive energy.

While these may appear simple instructions they are the qualities that businesses are looking for – positive people with initiative and passion.

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LEARN THE MINDSETS OF MULTIMILLIONAIRES While knowledge about business is important in planning to grow a business there are also certain common attributes that define those who succeed beyond the norm and create an amazing business model that others envy. Experts agree that these individuals often have similar qualities that allow them to reach beyond the standard to the extraordinary. Here some of their qualities and habits: 1. Build Something Bigger Than Yourself: Most people want success for themselves, not other people. They want to win all the awards, be in the magazines, and earn millions of dollars. Having all of this is fine, but you must select a cause that is bigger than yourself. You need to understand that your purpose is greater than you. This will attract more success instead of repel it. A selfless leader will focus on growing others, which in turn will grow themselves.

Successful business people always think beyond their own success. They look at creating a community and making someone else's life easier, not just their own. As the ancient proverb says, If you want to go fast, go alone. If you want to go far, go together.

2. Align Yourself with Experts: Every multimillionaire has a team of experts that gives them strategic advice. Don't base your decision on the opinion of others. Make sure you have expert advice to draw from. We often see so many within our industry base their decisions on Facebook recommendations. This can be a hit and miss approach, and while others can give you advice based on their experience, it always pays to access expert advice that is accurate. Find the best experts in your industry and seek their wisdom.

3. Create Systems that Leverage: Multimillionaires cannot do it all alone. They have systems and processes that allow them to leverage their gifts and abilities. There's always a better and faster way to get things done. If you create a system of success for yourself it will eventually serve you. However, it must be your system, not someone else's.

4. Marketing and Sales: Marketing spreads the message of what you're about and sales is getting people to buy that message.

Marketing helps you to build your credibility and sales happens when people trust your reputation. Marketing is the spinal cord to your business and sales is the vertebrae. If you want strong 'backing', you must master both of these major skills.

Multimillionaires are experts at marketing and sales. Their skills deftly lead them to high positions and allow them to enjoy the best of life. In this world, you can either sell or you'll be sold. You might as well learn what the marketplace wants and then find a way to strategically deliver what it needs. In short, find a product

to sell (sales) and have a story to tell (marketing). Steve Jobs once said: People don't know what they need until you give it to them.

5. Make Quick Decisions: Every day we all make a multitude of decisions. However, the richest people make them fast because they know themselves better. Most people have never been taught how to make decisions. Instead, they look for people who can make it for them. This is why only 10% of people in the world are entrepreneurs, who control 90% of the workforce.

Procrastination can be the biggest killer of success. Stop thinking about it and make decisions. Then get behind that decision and get the most out of it.

6. Manage Your Priorities: Prioritising means doing first what matters most. Dozens of tasks may be calling your name each day, but you must only undertake the ones that give you the most reward. You must develop a habit to consistently delegate or eliminate activities that take up your time, energy and money.

Your time is finite. What are your main priorities in 2016? How are you going to make it happen? Your goals better be as big as you can make them. Most people set goals that are too small. A small increase in income won't suffice for aspiring multimillionaires. Instead, raise your goal substantially by seeking to quadruple your rate of business. Whatever your goal is, your mind will find a way to do it. Where there is a vision, provision will come.

7. Serve People: Surprisingly, most multimillionaires don't do it for the money. If they did do it for the money, they would have stopped after their first million or so. Truly, they do it for the people. They understand that people come first. When you serve people the profit will come. It's a law that automatically applies itself. Your wealth is only a by-product of the quality and quantity of service you provide. – Daniel Ally

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8. Continuous Improvement: If you want to change the world, you need to consume a lot of knowledge and make rapid changes. You need to start eating books and implementing the ideas you learn. Most successful people routinely read two hours per day at a minimum. They're pounding the textbooks and taking notes.

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When you're beginning work each day ask yourself, "How can I improve?" If there is a skill that you must learn, learn it. Most people are one skill away from being a massive success. If you want to become a multimillionaire, you need to get serious about self-improvement and adopt changes in your personal and professional life on a daily basis.

9. Get Feedback: Everyone has limitations in what they can see and understand. Engage people around you and your client to

constantly give you feedback about what they want. Obtaining feedback is instrumental if you want to grow a successful business. Sometimes, great feedback can come from anywhere.

It can come from your spouse, kids, neighbour, or even your mother! Often times, it comes from your worst critics, who give you the deepest version of what you need to change. Wherever you get your feedback, make the necessary changes.

Ref: Daniel Ally - 10 secret mindsets of multimillionaires

NEW CHECKLIST FOR EMPLOYERS The Australian Government in May launched a new checklist for businesses who are looking at growing and wish to engage staff for the first time.

can apply to you, the Government has brought them all together into one checklist. The checklist covers several areas such as:

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This can be a daunting exercise for many as they navigate with the regulatory requirements that they will need to comply with. As a special service to its members APAN has available various documents from Workplace Agreements, HR Documents, timesheets, letter of warnings, etc that are drafted to meet with regulatory guidelines. Members can also phone and discuss their needs with APAN as the need arises.

To further assist and to make the process faster and easy the Government is providing a special section on their website www.business.gov.au. To help you understand the government requirements you need to meet as an employer, take a look at our new Employee Checklist.

How can the checklist help me?

As an employer, you need to meet a range of State and Federal laws. These laws set out wages and conditions, tax and super requirements, and insurance for your employees. So that you don't have to search around for information on how these laws

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Can you take on employee?

What kind of employment are you offering? !

Is your worker an employee or a contractor? !

Can your employee legally work in Australia? !

What are your employee's rights under the anti-discrimination laws? !

What are your record-keeping requirements? !

Are you paying the correct wages or entitlements? !

What tax do you need to deduct from your employee's pay?

What are your superannuation obligations?

What are your workplace health and safety obligations?

Do you need workers' compensation insurance?

Do you need to register for portable long-service leave?

If you are planning to employ staff please check the website www.business.gov.au and if you require further assistance in this area please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360.

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salonprofile

MP SPA AND BEAUTY Defining spa and aesthetic procedures to a new level of excellence MP Spa and Beauty is a warm and friendly beauty salon, laser clinic and day spa, conveniently located in two locations Maitland and Green Hills, Hunter Valley NSW. The Maitland salon is a renovated Californian bungalow situated in historic Church Street, Maitland, while the Green Hills salon is located in a large purpose-built building with parking close to the Stockland Shopping Centre. Both locations are approximately 30-40 minutes drive from the Hunter Valley Vineyards and Newcastle.

The salons provide a variety of skin-treatment services, as well as a complete range of spa services to help clients relax and improve their wellbeing, as well as their appearance. Retail products include their own skincare range, MP SKIN ESSENTIALS. They also stock BABOR Cosmetics (Germany), PAYOT (Paris), Ali Hamilton make-up, Eve Taylor candles, Mira’s Hand, St Tropez Tan and a full and exclusive range of silver and costume jewellery such as Najo.

As well as offering traditional spa and beauty treatments they also offer a range of advanced skin treatments, including IPL and laser permanent hair reduction, electrolysis hair-removal needle method, VelaShape slimming/cellulite reduction, Dr. Schrammek Green Peel, microdermabrasion, photo-

rejuvenation and laser pigmentation removal as well as PhotonSmart anti-ageing and acne treatments. To further enhance their clients' results a resident doctor visits once a month offering injectables.

The salons have been established in the region for over 30 years and owe their success to a solid and credible reputation on exceptional results delivered through cutting-edge advanced technologies and highly skilled and educated practitioners.

The owner and inspirational leader to the two businesses is Margaret Dawson, an energetic and highly committed professional who excels in everything she does. Her passion for her profession is infectious and we are delighted to profile her inspirational story in this issue of APJ.

APJ Q1: Margaret, when did you start in this industry and what drew you to pursue a career in beauty therapy?

It is now over 35 years that I first fell into this industry. I saw an ad in the paper to train in Beauty Therapy and thought "Why not give it a try?" At the time I had my first child who was one year old and so I had time to consider a career choice.

While I thoroughly enjoyed my studies, from the outset I understood that what I had learnt were just the basics and

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realised that there was so much more that could be achieved in this profession. Back then most of the training we received was hands-on practical skills with very basic theory.

As a result, I sought out further courses and often travelled to the cities to undertake further training. I joined an industry Association – the AABTh – and attended all their conferences, networks and participated in as many ongoing courses as were made available at the time. My training and education back then and even now has never stopped. I am currently studying for the Bachelor of Health Science Dermal Therapies at Victoria University.

APJ Q2: Tell us a little about your current businesses and what you offer your clients?

We offer our clients a diverse range of services from spa services, to all the grooming services – nails, waxing, spray tanning and body treatments.

Additionally, we also offer advanced skin-rejuvenation procedures using technologies such as IPL, Lasers, LED, Microdermabrasion, electrolysis and even cosmetic tattooing. While we offer a wide selection of treatments and services, we ensure that all our practitioners are qualified and are up-todate with the latest techniques. Our focus is very much on ongoing education to ensure that our clients are in the best hands. We heavily invest in their education.

APJ Q3: I believe you are undertaking a degree in dermal therapies, how do you juggle work and study?

I have to say with a great deal of hard work and discipline.

However, if you commit to something you must dedicate time towards it. I dedicate two days and nights a week when I am on my computer doing my assignments. It does require a level of sacrifice, but I have to say I have eight wonderful staff and a supportive family and that makes all the difference.

APJ Q4: Why did you choose to undertake a degree?

I think it was a natural progression of my ongoing learning and I am glad that I have taken this on despite the challenges. The knowledge I am gaining is allowing me to look at things more critically and through a different perspective. I now can analyse not just the skin, but also evaluate products, equipment, procedures and protocols from a more scientific perspective and make better informed choices for the benefit of my clients, but not just that, I am also able to make better business decisions.

APJ Q5: What changes have you experienced in the industry over the past decade and how are they affecting you?

I have to say that as more and more modalities are entering the market there appears to be a split in the industry between grooming services and skin-improvement treatments. Every area is becoming progressively more specialised and so we are seeing the nail bars that just offer nail services, we are seeing others just offering lash extensions, cosmetic tattooists just offering their services. Then we have the laser clinics emerging offering just hair-reduction and skin-rejuvenation treatments.

There are also many who are choosing to work from home and offer their services at a cheaper price.

How are these changes effecting us? We have to ensure that if clients come to us they can expect to receive the best possible standard of treatment outcome and we charge accordingly. For example, our lash extensions are delivered with the best products, skill and at the best quality standard. We charge from $120 - $200. As a result, we only get the clients that are seeking the best results, not just the cheapest price, which may mean that the practitioner may have to cut corners on standards or product quality. They know they get the best professional results with us and they are willing to pay accordingly. You can't get caught up in heavily discounting practices if you wish to maintain standards.

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APJ Q8: Why did you join APAN and how has your association with APAN benefited you?

I have always been a strong believer in the benefit of belonging to a professional body. For many years I belonged to the AABTh and benefited from their seminars, networks and personally knew many industry icons. When they closed down I was seeking a professional body to belong to and I considered APAN as the most professional with an excellent reputation. They are highly knowledgeable on regulatory matters and also very capable in assisting me with business support. It is good to know who you can turn to for reliable and professional advice. Through their various researches I am able to be kept up with important issues and be guided on professional matters.

APJ Q9: What would you like to see improved within the industry?

APJ Q6: Who and what inspires you to keep going?

As a business owner who is responsible for my staff and the success of my businesses I have to motivate myself. I am very much self-driven and like to be the best at what I do. If you can't take responsibility for your own motivation you shouldn't be in business. I also gain inspiration in training my staff to be the very best they can be. Gaining on going knowledge is also very inspirational because it allows you to gain confidence in your services and allows you to back it up with evidence. I have to say that one of my passions is electrolysis.

There are certain excessive hair conditions that do not respond well not even to laser. This is where electrolysis is such a wonderful modality. A recent amazing story that I can recall was treating twins who suffered from excessive hair. Medical tests were inconclusive and laser did not provide them with the results they needed. I worked for 12 months – one hour every two weeks on each one of them. I was able to achieve wonderful results. Recently they went on holidays and for the first time they didn't need to take razor blades. They also attended a wedding and for the first time they allowed someone to apply makeup on them. These results changed their lives.

Results such as these are so rewarding and it motivates you to keep giving your best.

I have to say that I have achieved what I have because I have always taken personal responsibility to ensure I invested in my on going education as well as belonging to a professional association. I felt I had a duty of care to my profession and to my clients to be the very best that I could be. In some industries this is still the prevailing mentality, however, in our industry staff often feel that it is up to the owner to pay their way through all their learning and association memberships. This is not realistic and I know of many businesses who suffer because they are expected to pay for all the staff members' on going education. While I understand that it is the business's responsibility to orientate staff to the methodologies and services they provide and pay for them to attend product knowledge that is directly related to the business, it is also important for staff to charter their own educational pathway and take this on at their own initiative and cost.

Qualifications are, after all, owned by the individual not the business. I would like to see more staff take this initiative and not limit their progress only to what the business can afford to pay for them. I believe this will help to continue to elevate the reputation of the profession and help support business growth and ultimately employment opportunities.

Margaret Dawson can be reach at MP Spa and Beauty Ph: 02 4933 2046.

APJ Q7: How do you relax and what are your favourite pastimes?

I love to walk and also attend gym classes to stay fit and this also helps me to de-stress. I also get a lot of support and joy from my family, as family is important to me and I never want my children to feel that they are missing out because of my work and career commitments. I also have two dogs that I absolutely adore – they are crosses – Dories. They help me relax and I enjoy their company very much. I also have to say that I owe much of what I have achieved to Paul, my husband. He is very supportive and it was he who got me the paperwork to undertake my Dermal Therapies degree.

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The skin your clients want is under the skin they see.

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SKEYNDOR POWER C+ CONCENTRATED AMPOULES With their power+ and exceptional antioxidant prowess, the SKEYNDOR Power C+ Ampoules contain 7.5% Pure Vitamin C and are supercharged with anti-oxidant leaders, Ellagic and Phytic Acids, the most potent anti-oxidant combination and antiageing defence available. A daily pick-meup for the complexion, each ampoule delivers a rejuvenating and antiinflammatory action, enhanced photo-protection and noteworthy lightening benefits. Significantly improving the complexion on many levels, they address sun damage, lines, dark patches and, at the same time, enhancing clarity and smoothness. In addition to collagen-boosting Vitamin C, the addition of Ellagic Acid, a powerful wrinkle fighter and effective skin brightener that guards against collagen breakdown and boosts elasticity, and Phytic Acid, one of the gentlest acids that can be used for all skin types that aids in reducing inflammation and sun damage. Together these advanced ingredients contributed to improved skin clarity, tone and hydration. Designed as a 14-day treatment, SKEYNDOR recommends nightly use after cleansing and prior to night cream. Available in a pack of 14 x 1ml ampoules.

FLUOROXYGEN LIPOC-20 Day Serum pH 2.3-3.5 This rejuvenating serum reinforces antioxidant power and contains more than 20% pure, micronised Vitamin C (L'ascorbic Acid) in a condensed formula to ensure long-term stability and activity – oxidised-free formula.

Supported by scientifically validated ingredients such as Alpha Lipoic Acid and Lycopene, this serum lightens skin, blocks melanin synthesis, stimulates collagen regeneration, breaks down freeradicals and provides a second layer of protection against UV radiation. Natural plant extracts and anti-inflammatory agents impart calming and anti-irritation effect.

Contact Skin Factors – Progressive Solutions www.skinfactors.com.au Ph: 1800 824 282.

Contact Vogue Image Group Email info@vogueimage.com.au, Ph: 1 800 554 545 or visit www.vogueimage.com.au

Environ Evenescence C-Boost This light, non-greasy clarifying cream contains a stable and highly effective form of vitamin C (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate) known to assist in improving the appearance of uneven skin tone and sun damage, leaving skin looking radiantly clear and beautiful. To use: Apply before your recommended Environ vitamin A moisturiser morning and/or evening. Suitable for most skin types, especially uneven skin tone. For more information contact Environ Skincare Australia 1300 888 708.

SKIN Vitamin C Serum A deliciously pleasant vitamin C serum comprising of a unique cutting-edge vitamin C formulation consisting of L'ascorbic Acid and glucose. SKIN Vitamin C Serum is a unique vitamin C formula that is converted by a glucosidase enzyme in the skin to the active form of L'ascorbic Acid to deliver the health benefits of vitamin C. The enzyme activity is gradual, contributing to a progressive timerelease of the vitamin C into the skin to ensure maximum absorption and benefit. This formulation also contains other nutrients such as niacinomide, as well as Evening Primrose Oil, Avocado Oil and Jojoba Oil that also nourish the skin giving it a pleasant feel. Skin Vitamin C Serum can be used within a clinic treatment protocol, as a night treatment or under moisturiser to enhance skin clarity, improve tone and elasticity. For further information contact SKIN

NATURAL SCIENCE 0430 007 998.

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NEW Flirt LipDrink Lip Balm with SPF 15 by jane iredale Pucker up with the prettiest peachy-pink protection; NEW Flirt LipDrink Lip Balm with SPF 15 by jane iredale, combining a variety of waxes and oils (such as avocado and carrot seed) to nourish lips and help protect them from the damaging effects of the sun. Available in three other shades (Buff, Crush & Sheer) that will leave lips feeling moisturised, protected and refreshingly lemon-scented. Vegan, Gluten Free and

Cruelty Free. Distributed in Australia by Margi Fox Distributors 1300 850 008 - www.margifox.com.au

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Lids by Design –

The instant, non-surgical eyelift The eyelid revolution sweeping America is now available in Australia and distributed by Bella Aesthetics. Lids by Design is a non-surgical correcting strip available in different sizes to instantly lift the eyelids and widen the eyes, hiding the excess skin in the natural fold of the lid. Medical-grade quality, Lids by Design is a hypoallergenic, latex-free product that is undetectable, breathable and leaves no residue. Quick and easy to apply, they last all day and makeup can be applied over the top. They are ideal for: Loose, sagging skin hanging over the lashes Asymmetrical lids making the eyes look and feel uneven Excess skin covering the natural fold of the lid Each box contains 80 units, enough for 40 days. It retails at $69.95, giving stockists a 100% mark-up.

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For further information and stockist enquiries contact Michelle at Bella Aesthetics on 0419 624 246 or visit www.bellaaesthetics.com.au

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Diode laser for hair reduction

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If you prefer to work with a laser then Ausmed's DioMed-100 is an amazing device specifically designed for hair reduction. It can emit laser light at 808nm wavelength that can be absorbed by melanin located in the hair follicle. The hair shaft can also absorb the energy, destroying the hair follicle for effective removal. It offers safe energy delivery, continuous contact cooling to the epidermis, while its ergonomically designed finger trigger offers easy, comfortable operation.

For further details Contact Ausmed International Pty Ltd Ph: 02 8957 2177, Mob: 0424 795 652 www.ausmedlaser.com.au

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Skin Consultations Reach An Exciting New Level The recent arrival of the dermograph™ transdermal skin analyser has been like a breath of fresh air for aesthetics and beauty specialists who can now offer credible, interactive and science-based skin consultations with a very unique difference. Dermograph™ is the first-ever transdermal skin-consultation system – it critically analyses two millimetres beneath the skin's surface to the dermal layers to identify skin conditions where they originate. This groundbreaking innovation has practically eliminated the guesswork when it comes to skin consultations, allowing you to identify deficiencies deep within the skin that may be invisible on the surface.

In less than a minute, the dermograph™, which combines dermascopy, spectroscopy and nanotechnology methods of analysis, swiftly examines 13 different characteristics of the skin to identify where imbalances lie before intelligently analysing the data to create automated treatment recommendations based on the findings. It really is that easy. Upselling treatments and products are made easy with the sophisticated software system that allows the clinic or salon to load in the system their own services and products. Case studies show that this ultra-personalised approach can help you increase sales by a massive 52% and treatment upsells by 54.8%. Learn more

about how dermograph™ enhances your business by calling 1300 006 607 or visiting www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.

Clairderm Skin Trio Clairderm Skin Trio Microdermabrasion – the Effective Non-Surgical Skin Perfecting and Hydrating System for Medical and Aesthetic Applications – quick, comfortable and easy to use with truly amazing results!

The proudly Australian-made Clairderm Skin Trio Microdermabrasion skin-perfecting and hydrating system offers a non-invasive, hygienic procedure that is comfortable, quick and simple. It combines 3-in-1 technologies – Crystal, Diamond and Hydra. This gives the practitioner the flexibility of offering either a gentle or more powerful procedure to polish, refine, hydrate and rejuvenate the skin in one treatment. Its stylish slimline design ensures it fits anywhere, and the combination of the industry's highest standard for quality and hygiene with superior results makes it a preferred choice for clinics. The skin benefits are multiple and results outstanding for skin rejuvenation, acne, stretch marks, skin blemishes, scars, sun damage, fine lines, wrinkles and dehydrated skin. For more information, contact

Clairderm Medical Aesthetics on 07 5539 6868| 1300781239 or email office@clairderm.com, website www.medicalbeautyequipment.com

Med Pulse SHR – Latest in IPL technology for Hair Reduction, Pigmentation, Skin Rejuvenation and Vascular If you are looking for a modern device that can deliver effective treatment outcomes with a wide range of options then Ausmed's Med Pulse SHR offers the latest technology. It provides safe, effective permanent hair reduction with minimum discomfort due to its advanced technology power-cooling system. Furthermore, the Ausmed's Med Pulse SHR also offers effective treatment options for skin rejuvenation, pigmentation and vascular treatments in the one device. It delivers precise energy output in three therapeutic modes: traditional IPL mode, Fly Point mode and SHR in motion SHR mode that is suitable for all skin types with minimum discomfort. You can expect a super-strong IPL power supply – 2000w with fast repetition rate maximum 10 shots per second with the SHR mode. Its slim and delicate, modern designed handpieces allow ease of use and optimal network management functions. For further details contact

Ausmed International Pty Ltd Ph: 02 8957 2177, Mob: 0424 795 652 www.ausmedlaser.com.au

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ACTITIO PR N

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MAKE SAFETY AND STANDARDS YOUR POINT OF DIFFERENCE

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Get Recognition for the Highest Level of

SAFETY AND QUALITY STANDARDS Through a National and International Accreditation Program There is no doubt that consumers today look beyond discounting and value quality assurance for treatment outcomes and safety standards.

In collaboration with Quality Innovation Performance Limited (QIP) APAN is launching a new Clinic Accreditation Program –

QIP SPECIALISED HEALTH SERVICES ACCREDITATION PROGRAM QIP has a skilled workforce to support eligible clinics to work towards accreditation against the: · National Safety and Quality Health Service (NSQHS) Standards · Medicare Local Accreditation Standards

· · · ·

BENEFITS TO YOUR CLINIC AND PRACTICE: · Achieving QIP independent external Accreditation will reassure your client of your commitment to provide high

·

quality care in a safe environment Set your business apart from the crowd through excellence in Safety and Standards Secure protocols for on-going best practice that you can be proud of for you and your team Engaging your whole team in the review of your clinic's systems and processes Assessing your clinic against a set of nationally recognised professional standards that focus on quality care and client safety Engaging your clinic in the continuous quality improvement journey

Here is your chance to achieve the ultimate recognition as your point of difference through the

QIP SPECIALISED HEALTH SERVICES ACCREDITATION PROGRAM Phone APAN today for further details 07 5593 0360.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS STUDIES CONFIRM LASER LIPOLYSIS OFFERS SKIN-TIGHTENING RESULTS The addition of laser to traditional liposuction results in a minimally invasive procedure that provides more rapid recovery and skin tightening of any residual skin laxity, according to a plastic surgeon in Gatineau, Quebec, Canada. Reviewing more than 200 cases of laser lipolysis (using SmartLipo), performed over a two-year period, Patricia Berbari, M.D., FRCSC, who is also an associate professor at the University of Ottawa in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada, discussed the advantages of the procedure at the 2016 annual meeting of the Canadian Laser and Aesthetic Specialists Society in Toronto "The laser helps me get better results with liposuction," says Dr. Berbari, explaining that the procedure liquefies and removes the fat.

"The rationale [for using a laser] is to make sure the skin is not sagging [after fat is removed]. With the laser, through stimulation of collagen, you will achieve skin tightening. The patients in this series had an average age of 43, had an average body mass index of 26.5 kg/m2, and more than 80% were female. Common sites where patients frequently request laser-assisted liposuction are the abdomen and thighs, notes Dr. Berbari.

The use of the laser improves body contouring and sculpting through avoiding the need for large, surgical excision to eliminate any excess, sagging skin that is common with tummy tuck or thigh lift, according to Dr. Berbari.

Indeed, an advantage with laser lipolysis is that smaller cannulas are used compared to traditional liposuction. "An advantage with laser lipolysis is that we can suction out the fat with smaller cannulas, and there is less trauma to the tissues," says Dr. Berbari.

VITAMIN DEFICIENCY AND SKIN-PIGMENTATION LOSS Skin pigmentation comes from the presence of melanin, a black-brown protein also found in your hair, and in specific cells in your intestines and brain. The greater the level of melanin in your skin, the darker it appears. Your skin tone and pigmentation levels are determined by a number of factors: Genetics typically determine your general skin colour, while environmental factors such as level of sunlight exposure can contribute to your skin pigmentation. A number of vitamin deficiencies can also affect your skin tone, leading to a loss of skin pigmentation and a pale complexion. If you identify a skin that is pale and lacks a healthy colour consider the following vitamin recommendations: Vitamin C: One vitamin that can affect your skin pigmentation is vitamin C, or ascorbic acid. Vitamin C in your body helps to produce collagen, a protein essential for healthy skin, nails, blood vessels, hair,

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connective tissue, bones and a number of other tissues. Vitamin C deficiency causes scurvy, a condition that leads to abnormally pale skin. In addition, scurvy can cause bone damage, tooth loss and blood vessel and skin damage. You can prevent scurvy by eating a range of fruits and vegetables, since many types of produce provide a source of ascorbic acid. Citrus fruits, strawberries and broccoli are all good food sources. The recommended daily intake for vitamin C is 75 milligrams for women and 90 milligrams for men, as set by the Institute of Medicine.

Vitamin B-9 (Folic Acid): A deficiency in vitamin B-9, or folic acid, can also lead to a loss of pigmentation in your skin.

Folic-acid levels in your body help to maintain your metabolism and contribute to energy production, and also prove important for the development of red blood cells. Chronic under-consumption of folic acid can lead to folate-deficiency anaemia, a condition that can cause pale

skin and decrease the appearance of skin pigmentation. The condition also leads to fatigue and headaches, since your body cannot access the oxygen it requires to function properly. Folic acid is found in leafy greens, beans and fortified juices.

The RDI of folic acid for adults is 400 micrograms.

Vitamin B-12: Failure to consume enough vitamin B-12, or cobalamin, can also lead to a lack of skin pigmentation.

Cobalamin aids in the production of hemoglobin, as well as the breakdown of nutrients for energy within your tissues.

A vitamin B-12 deficiency can lead to pernicious anaemia, a form of anaemia that causes fatigue, fever, numbness and unexplained weight-loss, as well as pale skin. Individuals following a plant-based diet, like a vegan or raw-food diet, may face an increased risk of vitamin B-12 deficiency, and should consume vitamin B-12 supplements to avoid anaemia and a loss of skin pigmentation. Vitamin B-12 is only found in animal foods, such as

eggs and meats, and the RDI of B-12 is 2.4 micrograms.

Skin Pigmentation and Vitamin D: While not associated with a vitamin D deficiency, the level of pigmentation in your skin can affect vitamin D levels in your body. Melanocytes, the cells that produce your skin pigment, serve as the site of vitamin D production in your body. When exposed to sunlight, the melanocytes begin to synthesise vitamin D, and adequate sunlight helps to fight vitamin D deficiency. Your level of skin pigmentation helps determine how much sunlight you need to make enough vitamin D: Lighter-skinned individuals typically require less sunlight than d a r k e r- s k i n n e d i n d i v i d u a l s . A n appropriate treatment plan that includes a moderate amount of sun exposure should be included as part of a health skintreatment plan. Vitamin D is also available in fortified foods such as milk and cereal. The RDI of vitamin D is 600 international units.

WHY YOU SHOULD WEAR SUNSCREEN ON A PLANE? It’s a question many skin-conscious flyers have no doubt pondered pre-flight: Should I pack sunblock in my carry-on?

The short answer: Yes. It’s possible to get sunburnt on a plane, says Marc Glashofer, M.D., a dermatologist in New Jersey-based The Dermatology Group and a fellow of the American Academy of Dermatology. But you should be worried about more than a bad burn. Why? Well, there are two types of harmful ultraviolet (UV) rays: UVB rays, which cause sunburn, and their longer, scarier cousin UVA rays, which hit your skin at a deeper level, potentially causing skin cancer.

For the most part, plane windows block UVB rays, Glashofer says. But unfortunately for anyone sitting in the window seat, UVA rays can penetrate glass.

Pilots are in a particular predicament: A recent study in JAMA Dermatology found just one hour at 30,000 feet could expose pilots to the same amount of UV

radiation as a 20-minute tanning-bed session would. But as a passenger, you’re up against a smaller window and far less cumulative exposure. Still, over time, hours in the sun (yes, even by a window) add up, increasing your risk of skin cancer, says Glashofer.

So what can you do to protect yourself?

“I pull down the shades in the airplane when it's sunny,” says Joel Cohen, M.D., director of Colorado-based AboutSkin Dermatology, and a spokesperson for the American Academy of Dermatology. It’s important to do regardless of weather: Cloud cover and snow can reflect UV rays, which can potentially further skin damage.

You can also fight back with a broadspectrum 30-SPF lotion, which will protect against UVA and UVB rays. Reapply a marble-sized amount to your face every two hours, says Cohen. Don’t forget often overlooked areas like the back of your hands, forearms and ears, says Glashofer. You might not realise it, but those areas are exposed, too.

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When buying sunscreen, look for ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as they tend to be less irritating than other chemicals. “The best sunscreen is the one you’re going to use.”

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scratching a record, getting a painting wet or accidentally breaking a frame of a picture.”

When appropriate, Lane recommends that medical professionals explore using alternate parts of the body for the pricks of blood tests. “Among the people I know, we all elect to have blood drawn from places other than our arms. For those of us with hands that are not tattooed, we tend to have it drawn from the backs of our hands.”

3. Tattoo infections may not have obvious causes Infections from the tattooing process remain a risk, both from the needle and from the ink, which is not regulated. But many tattoo artists are reducing the risk by using pre-packaged, pre-sterilised needles and single-use ink packets, Lane says.

50% tricholoracetic acid. “Even in

WHEN TATTOOS experienced hands, 50% TCA is a very strong acid,” she says. “Other products CAUSE PROBLEMS do not mention any ingredients. This brings up the concern of these products – FOUR RISKS containing acids or other potentially

Here are some potential medical issues that dermatologists may encounter on the tattoo front: 1. Tattoo-removal creams pose risks “Great caution should be taken before purchasing and using topical tattoofading creams,” says Suzan Obagi, M.D., an associate professor of Dermatology and Plastic Surgery and director of the Cosmetic Surgery and Skin Health Center at the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center. Reports show that some products available to consumers contain

dangerous ingredients.”

2. Tattooed people may resist blood tests People with tattoos may be resistant to blood tests via the arm because they fear harming the artwork, says Dave C. Lane, Ph.D., an assistant professor of sociology at the University of South Dakota in Vermillion, SD, who studies tattoos.

They may also worry about treatments that could disrupt the appearance of their tattoos, he says. “For some, this is akin to

An infection related to a new tattoo may not be related to the tattooing process itself. Lane recalls hearing from a tattoo artist about a customer who claimed he was infected by the tattoo artwork on his foot. It turns out that the problem arose from wearing work boots at his industrial workplace after getting the tattoo. “It must have been easier for this client to blame the tattooist than seek help from a medical professional,” he says.

4. Tattoos may hide a skin problem George J. Hruza, M.D., MBA, a dermatologist in private practice and adjunct professor of Dermatology at St. Louis University, says it’s possible that a tattoo may camouflage a skin condition like a cancerous mole. The tattoo ink could make identification of the skin cancer difficult, especially if the tattoo ink is dark, says Hruza. He recommends avoiding tattoos on skin areas with growths or moles.

Ref: Dermatology Times

PSYCHOLOGICAL ASSESSMENT TOOLS IN AESTHETICS Why should dermatologists worry about psychological assessment tools in their practice? Pamela Schell Werschler, Psy.D., MSN, ARNP, DNC, answered this question in her presentation, “Survey of Assessment Tools in Dermatologic Practice”, at the recent inaugural Aesthetic + Medical Dermatology Symposia, held in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho,

in May. According to Dr. Werschler, a psychologist and nurse practitioner specialising in dermatology at Werschler A e s t h e t i c s , S p o k a n e , Wa s h . , “Dermatological diseases often co-exist along with conditions such as major depressive disorder, obsessive-

compulsive disorder, body dysmorphic disorder and a plethora of other psychiatric illnesses.”

She notes that a recent study of 114 people with dermatological disorders showed that 39 – nearly 35% – reported depression. By comparison, only about 7% of adults in the US general population

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report depression, according to National Institute of Mental Health statistics.

“This isn’t surprising,” Dr. Werschler says.

“How do acne, alopecia areata, eczema, HSV b r e a k o u t s , hyperhidrosis, lupus, melasma, nail fungus, pruritis, psoriasis, rosacea, scarring, skin c a n c e r, s e x u a l l y transmitted diseases, urticaria, warts and don’t forget age-related changes, how do they make any of us feel?”

She says there’s an extensive list of psychiatric diagnoses clinicians are likely see in combination with their patients’ dermatological condition. These disorders include obsessive-compulsive, body dysmorphic, trichotillomania (hairpulling), excoriation (picking at the skin), substance/medication-induced obsessive-compulsive behaviour, avoidant/restrictive food intake, anorexia nervosa, bulimia, binge eating, gender dysphoria, generalised anxiety, post-traumatic stress disorder – the list goes on and on.

Dr. Werschler also recommends the following dermatologic- and cosmetic-

procedure-specific assessment tools:

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Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) (Finlay & Kahn, 1992): A self-reporting questionnaire frequently used in research to assess the potential impact of dermatological disorders, medications and devices on patients’ quality of life.

The Cosmetic Procedure Screening Scale (COPS) (Veale et al., 2012): For the aesthetic provider, the most concerning diagnosis is body dysmorphic disorder. COPS is a selfreporting scale designed to

screen for symptoms of BDD in cosmetic settings. Scores of 40 or higher indicate a BDD diagnosis.

The scale can be repeated during treatment and used as a measure of outcome. It is free to use, but should be cited if used.

“It’s important to treat the patient in a holistic manner, including how they may feel about their diagnosis,” Dr. Werschler says in summary. “And a crucial part of doing this is to employ appropriate psychological assessment tools.”

Ref: Dermatology Today

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

BIG MULTINATIONALS TO PHASE OUT PLASTIC MICROBEADS IN PERSONAL-CARE PRODUCTS Positive moves will help to reduce plastic pollution in Australian waterways. The phase out of the tiny plastic beads used in facial scrubs and exfoliants is gathering pace. As concern grows about the environmental impact of plastic microbeads, the Australian arms of two multinational companies have confirmed that they're phasing them out.

At the bottom of Sydney's Middle Harbour, scientists have found up to 60 fragments of microplastics per 100 milligrams of sediment. These are among the highest levels recorded. These microplastics can be ingested by worms, which in turn can be consumed by fish. Humans can ingest microbeads when eating contaminated fish.

Federal Environment Minister Greg Hunt announced in December that State and Territory governments had agreed to a voluntary phase-out of the beads by July 1, 2018.

Jon Dee, founder of environmental advocacy group Do Something!, said Woolworths and Coles should be commended for joining the stand against the beads, urging more Australian companies to follow suit. Mr Dee, who has been leading a campaign to ban the beads, said most consumers were unaware of the damage they caused.

"The majority of Australians who buy personal-care products that have microbeads in them would have no idea they contain minute pieces of plastic that go down the plughole and into waterways and into our oceans," he said. "Billions of these small

plastic microbeads end up in waterways and oceans every single year.”

Information on the packaging of many personal-care products make it difficult for consumers to determine whether or not they contain microbeads, usually labelled as polyethylene (PE).

"Most people think that when they feel that texture in a product they are experiencing apricot kernels or walnut shells," he said. "They have no idea that what that is, is small pieces of plastic, because a lot of the packaging really stresses the natural side of the ingredients.

"They don't tell you what's in there that is bad for the environment. No-one ever puts on their products: contains plastic microbeads.”

A spokesman for Woolworths said the company supported the removal of beads from Australian products. "We have been working to phase out microbeads in our own brand skin- and body-wash products and at present we have one remaining product," he said.

A spokesman for Coles said the chain was "pleased" to have removed microbeads from all Coles-brand products and would work with their suppliers to help them do likewise.

Consumers are urged to check if their products contain microbeads by downloading the free 'Beat The Microbead' app. consumers can scan the barcode of products at home or in the shopping aisle to see if they contain plastic microbeads. The app is available free of charge for Apple, Android and Windows phones via BeatTheMicrobead.org.

RESEARCHERS FIND LINK BETWEEN IMPATIENCE AND FAST AGEING A team of researchers with members from the US and Singapore has found that young women who scored as more impatient on a common psychology test tended to have shorter telomere length than their more patient peers. In their paper published in Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, the team describes the experiments they conducted, the testing they carried out and the results they found.

Leukocyte telomeres are caps on the ends of chromosomes. It is believed their purpose is to protect the chromosomes from damage – as cells divide, telomere length shortens. Scientists believe this is one of the main reasons we age. As telomeres grow shorter, starting at around age 16, we grow older, until eventually the cells can no longer divide and our time runs out. In this new study, the researchers report that they have found what appears to be an external cause of telomere shortening, which could by

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extension mean they have found a human trait that causes people to age faster.

impatience, which is measured in the laboratory using an incentivised delay-discounting task.

The experiment consisted of enlisting the assistance of 1,158 Chinese undergraduate students (aged 21 to 22) – each was asked to participate in a common psychology experiment that involves giving participants a certain amount of money now, or more money at a later date. The experiment has been used as a means for measuring, among other things, the degree of patience a person has. After the psychology test, all of the students submitted to a medical procedure that involved taking blood samples and measuring the length of their telomeres. In comparing the result of the psychology test with telomere length, the researchers found a trend – female students who scored as impatient in the first test, were found to have on average shorter telomere length – there was no such connection with male students.

In a sample of 1,158 Han Chinese undergraduates, the study observe that steeper delay discounting, indexing higher degree of impatience, is negatively associated with LTL. The relationship is robust after controlling for health-related variables, as well as risk attitude – another important determinant of decision-making. LTL in females is more sensitive to impatience than in males. We then asked if genes possibly modulate the effect of impatient behavior on LTL.

The researchers suggest their data indicates that impatience was the cause of the shorter telomere length, but it is also possible that it works the other way around – those people with shorter telomeres are going to have a shorter life span, and thus they become impatient, somehow subconsciously knowing that they are going to have less time to live their life than their long-telomered peers.

The current results contribute to understanding the relationship between preferences in decision-making, particularly impatience and cellular ageing, for the first time to our knowledge. Notably, oxytocin and oestrogen receptor polymorphisms temper accelerated cellular ageing in young females who tend to make impatient choices.

In a greying world, there is an increasing interest in correlates of ageing, especially those found in early life. Leukocyte telomere length (LTL) is an emerging marker of ageing at the cellular level, but little is known regarding its link with poor decisionmaking that often entails being overly impatient. The study investigated the relationship between LTL and the degree of

The oxytocin receptor gene (OXTR) polymorphism rs53576, which has figured prominently in investigations of social cognition and psychological resources, and the oestrogen receptor β gene (ESR2) polymorphism rs2978381, one of two gonadal sex hormone genes, significantly mitigate the negative effect of impatience on cellular ageing in females.

Not surprisingly, it would appear that stress associated with impatience has a direct link to shortening our lifespan.

More information: Onn-Siong Yim et al. Delay discounting, genetic sensitivity, and leukocyte telomere length, Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences (2016). DOI: 10.1073/pnas.1514351113

MICRONEEDLING APPEARS PROMISING IN DARKER SKIN TYPES Microneedling represents a promising treatment modality for dermatologic conditions in darker skin, according to a review published in the February issue of the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.

Brandon E. Cohen and Nada Elbuluk, M.D., from New York University School of Medicine in New York City, reviewed the literature relating to microneedling in darker skin.

The researchers note that microneedling is an evolving treatment for a growing number of dermatologic conditions and has been studied in skin of colour. Studies were reviewed for use of microneedling for patients with acne vulgaris, atrophic acne, scars, melasma, melanosis, skin rejuvenation and primary hyperhidrosis.

Microneedling represents a favourable treatment in darker skin types as it can yield clinical efficacy with minimal risk of adverse events. The study found that it was tolerable and can be

repeated multiple times as the epidermis is preserved.

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"Although microneedling may positively add to the current treatment armamentarium available for skin improvement, it is important to note that the number of randomised controlled trials completed remains limited, and larger, controlled studies are needed to provide further data on the efficacy and safety of microneedling, particularly in darker skin types," the authors write.

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THE MANSCAPE ON APPEARANCE ENHANCEMENT Never mind Botox: Men are opting for non-surgical treatments According to figures released by the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS), there were 51,140 cosmetic surgery procedures in the UK last year, up a whopping 13% on the previous year. Of those, 4,164 procedures were performed on men. This is almost twice the number of men who had cosmetic surgery a decade ago, remaining at about 9% of the total.

The figures reflect what many surgeons are also identifying.

“Funnily enough, we’ve seen a small decrease in surgeries for men last year,” say several surgeons “but we’ve seen a big increase in non-surgical treatments.” And that’s where the real uptake in male vanity seems to be occurring.

Cosmetic procedures also break down into surgical and nonsurgical: a facelift is the former; among the latter are “injectables” (Botox, dermal fillers, etc), laser treatments, facials and prescription skincare regimes. According to several practice managers, while surgery has seen a small decrease, the number of men having non-surgical treatments has risen by 50% year on year.

Botox wasn’t marketed at guys. Men have caught up massively with the options that are out there. David, 50, a client who has had regular Botox treatments since 2001, has also had filler injected into his lips and “laser lipo” on his jaw and neck (“Really chuffed with that one,” he says). He’s a big fan of the subtle effect of skilfully deployed non-surgical treatments.

“You’re not going to look like the ‘Bride of Wildenstein’,” he says. He claims that acceptance of these treatments has risen sharply among men since he started. “Back then, Botox wasn’t widely known about, it wasn’t marketed at guys,” he says. “Men have caught up massively with the options that are out there.”

When Daniel Smith had his first Botox treatment last June, he was 34. Although he had been concerned about some wrinkles that he felt aged him beyond his years, he was apprehensive about what he calls “that frozen look” and only had a small dose.

He has a picture on his phone from his most recent treatment, in December, with 13 dots drawn on his forehead and around his eyes to indicate where the injections were to go.

“I’ve lost quite a deep vertical and horizontal frown line, but I’ve kept some subtle age lines,” he says, “Personally, I saw a dramatic difference in the effect around my eyes, so I’m happy with that. I’d definitely do it again.” If he wants the effect to persist, he’ll have to do it again in about three months’ time.

Smith doesn’t see cosmetic intervention as a brave new world for his gender, because he already works in skincare (he also has an interest to declare; he does brand consulting work), but he does perceive a growing openness about anti-ageing procedures

for men. “I think, a few years ago, people had Botox and didn’t talk about it. I tell everyone. If people say: ‘Hey, your skin looks great’, I’ll show them the photo and say: ‘This is where I had it.’”

Smith has no interest in graduating to plastic surgery, but he doesn’t rule out other procedures in the future. “If you were asking what I’m thinking of next,” he says, “it wouldn’t be filler.

It would be a Silhouette lift.”

The Silhouette, or “soft thread” face lift, is one of several procedures marketed as a non-surgical counterpart to classic plastic surgery (Liposonix is a proprietary, noninvasive alternative to liposuction; a “non-surgical nose job” involves the strategic injection of fillers to minimise bumps or irregularities).

With the soft-thread lift, a needle is used to pull filaments under the skin of the face to tighten the neck and jawline. If that sounds horrible, try watching a YouTube video. The effect lasts between three and four years.

People are in the workforce a lot longer. You’ve got younger people you’re competing with. When it comes to cosmetic surgery, it seems that dissuasion is often part of the consultation.

A 2008 BAAPS survey found that half of plastic surgeons turned away 10% of their patients in the course of a year, and that one in five surgeons had turned away 30%. Reasons for refusing patients included unrealistic expectations, pre-existing medical conditions and people wanting procedures that weren’t warranted.

“People don’t retire as early as they used to,” says Dr Tammy Manning. “You will see gentlemen come in for anti-ageing procedures because they’re in the workforce a lot longer. You’ve got younger people you’re competing with.”

For what it’s worth, the very existence of this pressure is denied by both the male clients I spoke to. “No pressure at all,” says David. “I do it personally for myself. I like to look as good as I can. There’s no need to look like an old knacker.”

Australian surveys point to similar statistics, indicating that the male market for appearance enhancement is on the rise and a definite growth opportunity for businesses to take note of.

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DOES TAKING SELFIES CONTRIBUTE TO PREMATURE SKIN AGEING? Last week, The Daily Mail featured a story about a 26-year-old blogger who takes 50 selfies a day for her blog and saw a dermatologist to find out whether the high-energy visible (HEV) light from her cellphone screen was causing her skin to age prematurely. The doctor, cosmetic dermatologist Simon Zokaie, believed that this was, in fact, the case. He said that the light from her phone was causing her skin to develop dark spots, and that a lot of the damage on her skin from the light was still lying dormant under her skin. Could it really be true that selfies cause skin to age more rapidly?

According to Joshua Zeichner, an assistant professor in the dermatology department at Mount Sinai Medical Center, there's evidence that visible light plays a role in ageing skin. "Visible light has been shown to rev up pigment production, leading to dark spots, and promote breakdown of collagen, which leads to wrinkles. It can also create reactive oxygen species that damage the skin and cause premature skin ageing and perhaps skin cancers," says Zeichner. "There's no way to avoid visible light totally, but limiting time in front of your computers and cell phones can certainly help."

But some doctors are calling BS on the whole concept. Scott Dunbar, a dermatologist in New York City with Schweiger Dermatology Group, says, "While it's been conclusively shown that visible light can cause some skin diseases like lupus to flare, there's no evidence that visible light, even at high intensity, contributes much to premature skin ageing." In terms of the data that's available now, UV light (sunlight) is much more harmful to

skin than the light from computers and mobile devices. "Even if there was some data regarding visible light ageing the skin, its effect would be minuscule in comparison to ultraviolet light, which has been scientifically and convincingly proven to cause skin ageing and skin cancer," he says. "I'd say that you could take over a million selfies or use a computer for 100 years and that still would not be as impactful as spending a single day in the sun unprotected."

According to New York City dermatologist Rebecca Kleinerman, the answer is unclear as to whether HEV light can damage your skin. "This is a difficult question, because there's mixed evidence in the literature for and against the contribution of visual light to skin ageing," she says. "Red visual light has been shown to cause cells to increase collagen synthesis. More recently, orange light has been shown to interfere with matrix metalloproteinase activity, the cells that work to break down collagen, and this may actually have anti-ageing effects."

Kleinerman also says she would credit the blogger's skin damage to UV light. "I'd more likely attribute the brown spots on her cheeks to longstanding UV exposure, which has been long known to induce lentiginosis and provoke melasma," she says.

Whether or not you're truly concerned about the light from your phone, it's always important to protect your skin with sunscreen.

And if you're seriously concerned about all of your selfies contributing to signs of ageing, Zeichner recommends loading up on face creams and serums specifically aimed at helping to prevent dark spots.

NEW STUDY SHOWS SEASONAL EFFECTS ON SKIN With the change of season the impact of weather and environmental factors such as moving into contrasting temperatures – cold and windy exteriors and internal heated offices or homes can have a detrimental effect on our skin. However, do we have any independent studies that confirm this? A recent survey conducted by Dr Brian Horvath of nearly 500 people with acne and psoriasis shows a suspected pattern.

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“Consistently, people did better in the summer and worse in the winter,” Dr. Horvath, of Horvath Dermatology, said. “This is the first study to actually confirm those findings.”

The study also confirmed that people with acne also noticed a worsening of their condition. “For acne, people’s best time was the beginning of autumn, probably the end of the summer, and the worst time was mid-winter,” Dr. Horvath said.

“The biggest reason, though is that sunlight has some good effects on the immune system. It suppresses the extra inflammation on the surface of your skin that contributes to both psoriasis and acne,” Dr. Horvath said.

The study confirmed that changes in temperature as well as changes in sunlight do effect skin conditions, and that winter has the most negative effect, exacerbating inflammation, particularly on problematic skin such as acne and psoriasis.

Some of this may be related to the dry winter air inflaming the skin. But, there may be another factor, too.

COULD A CHOCOLATE A DAY KEEP THE WRINKLES AWAY? In the image-conscious and social-media-savvy modern world, could manufacturers convince consumers that indulgences such as beer and chocolate are not the villains they are often made out to be?

The majority of consumers value their appearance and want to look at their best from day to day. According to the Canadian global survey of 2015, 40% of consumers say that their appearance is quite important and a further 30% say it is very important. With the ever-increasing popularity of social media, 40% of global consumers say that their appearance in photos and images is quite important, and a further 25% feel that it is very important. While surgical enhancements are always an option, they are not without risks and expense. What if a food or drink product could offer to help turn back time instead?

In recent years we have seen the emergence of “beauty” candies and other oral supplements that promise younger-looking skin from within. Often containing ingredients claimed to enhance appearance such as collagen, biotin, coenzyme Q10 and aloe vera, these candies – much like multivitamins – are hoped to be taken up by health-conscious consumers as dietary supplements.

Looking to cash in on the notion of offering beauty solutions from within is the 2015 UK launch of Esthechoc Cambridge “beauty” chocolates.

The idea of a boxed chocolate offers a potentially premiumised product that could attract the interest of consumers willing to spend a little more for a beauty product that claims to be sciencebased. Among the features of the chocolates is the claim that it is “the world’s first nutricosmetic with a strong, scientifically proven impact on the metabolism of ageing skin”. The chocolate

is said to have a combination of “highly potent active substances: astaxanthin (the most powerful antioxidant known to science) and Cacao polyphenolic epicatechins.” As if the proposition of treating oneself and potentially restoring youthful good looks was not enough encouragement, further enticement could be had from the backing of “10 years of research by Cambridge (UK)”.

2015 has also seen the launch of Suntory’s collagen-infused beer. Among women, beer has traditionally been seen as a calorie-loaded beverage and more of a “ladette” than “ladylike” indulgence. The new Precious beer in Japan, however, is aimed at women who care about their appearance and is claimed to offer two grams of collagen in every can. While collagen is nothing new to cosmetics designed to plump, firm and rejuvenate the skin, the addition of the ingredient to a drink – and specifically a beer – could well shake things up in the beer segment.

The idea of guilt-free indulgence is something that could help to win over consumers who are bombarded by messages in the media about the benefits of beauty and the dangers of overindulging on the “bad stuff” – namely chocolate and alcohol.

According to the survey figures, 36% of global consumers say that they either somewhat or strongly agree that they would feel less guilty about consuming unhealthy food and drink if they contained a healthy ingredient. In an age of acute awareness that what we put into our body can ultimately make or break us, manufacturers could hope to destigmatise beer and chocolates by touting the beneficial aspects and inclusion of ingredients that appeal to a savvy generation who are ever-visible on social media.

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd July 5-7

ANNUAL MEETING OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION OF DERMATOLOGISTS ICC Birmingham Email: conference@bad.org.uk

July 24-26 COSMOPROF North America Mandalay Bay Las Vegas T: + 1 480.281.0424 x 3445 Email: info@cosmoprofnorthamerica.com Aug 6-7

10th Annual Anti-Aging & Aesthetic Medicine Conference Sofitel Melbourne T: 03 98130439 F: 03 98130649 Email: enquiries@a5m.net

Aug 11-13 New Zealand Society of Cosmetic Medicine Annual Conference Millennium Hotel Queenstown New Zealand T: +61 9 4365 829 F: + 61 9 4370 487 E-mail: nzscm@clear.net.nz www.nzscm.co.nz Aug 20-21 Sydney International Spa Beauty Expo Sydney Convention and Exhibition Centre Darling Harbour T: 02 9422 2535 Email: visit@internationalbeautyexpo.com.au Aug 20-22 Face & Body Northern California McEnery Convention Center San Jose, CA T: +1-630-653-2155 F: +1-630-653-2192 Email: FBNC@allured.com Aug 28-29 Professional Beauty Johannesburg Gallagher Convention Centre Johannesburg, South Africa T: + 44 (0)844 557 0914 Email: info@professionalbeauty.co.uk Aug 31-Sept 3 16th World Congress on Cancers of the Skin Hofburg Vienna Michaelerkuppel 1010 Wien, Austria T: + 49 0 30204590 F: + 49 0 302045950 Email: registration.berlin@mci-group.com Sept 11-12 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, California T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com Sept 12-14 Anti-Aging Japan/Spa & Wellness Tokyo Big Sight Exhibition Centre Tokyo Japan T: +81 3 5296 1013 F: +81 3 5296 1018 E-mail: d-expo0jp@ubm.com Oct 23

APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE - PERTH Crown Perth Burswood, Perth T: 07 55930360 F: 07 55930367 Email: info@apanetwork.com

DR ZAC TURNER guest speaker at Face Magic Face Magic Medispa on the Gold Coast welcomed Dr Zac Turner on 28th April for an educational lecture on the latest trends on cosmetic procedures and how peptides are making their mark as part of a more effective anti-ageing strategy.

Guest were greeted with cocktail drinks to an intimate gathering of eager consumers and industry professionals who were keen to learn more about new innovative techniques and approaches to improve one's appearance and energy levels. Dr Zac is a well-known holistic doctor with a wealth of knowledge in a variety of different technologies that address not just appearance, but also help in improving wellbeing and energy levels. He is considered as a leading, new-generation medical expert who specialises in this specific area of health, wellbeing and appearance as combined rather than isolated strategies. This approach holds much promise in improving confidence and supporting quality of life.

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registrationprogram

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Why the need for Higher Recognition and the Launch of ÂŽ APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER

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ARAP ARAP ARAP CLINICIAN ASSOCIATE The aesthetics industry is changing rapidly and while practitioners may become aware of some of these changes on a personal level, APAN is very much aware of them on a corporate level and has set out to examine the impact these changes will make on the future direction of the profession as a whole.

OPPORTUNITIES AND THREATS With a keen eye on global research, and an understanding of technological advances and consumer trends, APAN is well positioned to recognise the extent of their impact and introduce initiatives that will best protect the professional and business interests of the aesthetics industry as a whole.

APAN believes that the advances ahead of us will bring both opportunities and threats, and unless the industry is adequately prepared these changes could have a detrimental impact on businesses. As a national standards body we believe that now is the time to examine future changes and prepare to be one step ahead of them, ensuring we maintain continued consumer confidence to trust in the expertise, credibility and knowledge of qualified industry experts. However, this will not happen if we keep doing things the old way. There are several changes that industry professionals can make as practitioners, but there is also a new status that will identify them as the preferred expert and trusted, and that is what APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER is all about.

WHY STANDARDS ARE SO IMPORTANT While businesses may deliver their own best-practice strategies, times are changing. On going competition, both through new consumer awareness and through constantly growing higher educated graduates, has created the need for existing practitioners to re-examine their professional identity and their standards. APAN as a Standards Body has established a new Registration, which is now officially trademarked to ensure that only those who have been endorsed as Registered Aesthetics Practitioners can be recognised and permitted to use this status.

THE NEW TRENDS Let's first look at some of the changes we can expect in the near future.

New advances in formulations are now being embraced by the large global consumer manufacturers. What this will mean is that cosmeceutical products will be readily available for direct purchase by the consumer. At a recent global meeting for cosmetic manufactures, Cosmetic Design stated that there was a huge interest by many companies in several new ingredient advances. The new anti-pollution actives that protect the skin from the ageing factor of environmental pollution attracted a great deal of interest by many manufacturing companies. New cutting-edge technologies have

now identified several actives that enhance cell-to-cell communication and accelerate cell turnover and skin rejuvenation. Previously these actives were only a few and were reserved for the prestige brands, however, they will now become commonplace as manufacturers are competing for a major share of the consumer market. The "green trend" and a move towards non-toxic ingredients also will see the use of Palm oil as well as other questionable ingredients virtually eliminated from future formulations. What this will mean is that we will see many of the novel and sophisticated features that traditionally were only found in cosmeceuticals will become commonplace in both department store brands as well as readily available through on-line purchases. We need to stay one step ahead of these trends.

As they gain knowledge of these advances through advertising and social media, consumers will be lured to access the very best results-driven products on their own. So what will happen to the expert?

Our industry needs to lift its game and move in front of these changes with solid reasons why consumers will still gain greater benefits in accessing their services. Practitioners will need to increase their visibility and elevate their reputation and expertise, and this is where an external independent body can assess and endorse their credibility and standards and best practice through a National Register.

To gain registration as an APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner individual applicants will need to meet with the eligibility criteria of their category by providing evidence of their qualifications, skills and knowledge. This registration will become the new industry standard for aesthetics.

The APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner (ARAP) will stand for credibility, and endorsed recognition of expertise, knowledge and best practice. The public will be made aware of this new classification as registered practitioners will be promoted on a National Register.

ARAP registration is separate to APAN membership. There are three levels to this registration and the appropriate category is based on applicants meeting the eligibility criteria through evidence of their qualifications, skills and knowledge. This will allow entry level Associates to aspire to a higher level by meeting the next level's eligibility criteria.

Each approved ARAP member will be given a decal to promote their status, a Code of Ethics that they will be required to sign and adhere to and the requirement of evidence of ongoing education that they will need to present every two years at the renewal of their registration.

They will also be promoted on the National Register. APAN will present the status of these practitioners to government bodies who are deciding on scope of practice based on skills and knowledge.

Ultimately it will lead to an industry Code of Practice and a subsequent Scope of Practice that will define and protect the rights and reputation of ARAP members.

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We are here to support your on-going success.

To access an ARAP ONLINE APPLICATION FORM visit www.apanetwork.com or to gain further information phone APAN 07 5593 0360.

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The Highest Professional Standards now has a New Name As the Aesthetics industry continues to advance so has the need to identify its leading practitioners through a new Standards Recognition Registration Classification.

APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERÂŽ (ARAP) Is the new industry Registration. Applicants will be assessed on their qualifications, knowledge, kills and standards. Industry professionals are invited to apply for Registration.

There are three Registration Classifications:

] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Clinician ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Associate Who can apply:

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keyingredient

VANILLA OIL

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Much more than just a food flavouring Helps Balance Hormones, Reduce Inflammation and improve skin and health

by Tina Viney

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Vanilla is widely used in both commercial and domestic baking, perfume manufacturing and aromatherapy, but many people don’t realise the array of health benefits that come from using vanilla oil, even though it is not technically an essential oil.

Internally, pure vanilla oil fights inflammation, works as an antidepressant and contains high levels of antioxidants – preventing the growth of cancer cells.

It’s been proven to fight infections and diseases caused by oxidation and inflammation. Vanilla oil also promotes skin and hair health, relieves muscle pain and cramps, and new research supports that it can also help balance hormones naturally. For thousands of years it’s been used by men and women who struggle with loss of libido, anxiety and high blood pressure.

I have always loved the aroma and taste of vanilla, but learning about its many benefits has made me appreciate it even more. I trust this article will help you also to gain a greater appreciation of this amazing aromatic plant.

Vanilla oil is derived from Vanilla planifolia, a native species of the Orchidaceae family. The Spanish word for vanilla is vaina, which is simply translated as “little pod”. It was the Spanish explorers arriving on the Gulf Coast of Mexico in the early 16th century who gave vanilla its current name.

VANILLA OIL NUTRITION FACTS Vanilla grows as a vine that climbs up an existing tree or structure. When left alone the vine grows as high as the support will allow it. Although it is native to Mexico, it’s now widely grown throughout the tropics. Indonesia and Madagascar are the world’s largest producers.

The vanilla seed pods are roughly a third of an inch by six inches and a brownish red to black colour when ripe. Inside of the pods is an oily liquid full of tiny seeds.

The vanilla flower (which is a beautiful, yellow, orchid-looking flower) produces a fruit, but it only lasts for one day so growers have to inspect the flowers daily. The fruit is a seed capsule that when left on the plant ripens and opens. As it dries the compounds crystallise, releasing its distinctive vanilla smell.

Both vanilla pods and seeds are used for cooking.

THERAPEUTIC CONSTITUENTS Vanilla beans have been shown to contain over 200 compounds, which can vary in concentration depending on the region where the beans are harvested. Several compounds, including vanillin, p-hydroxybenzaldehyde, guaiacol and anise alcohol, have been found to be important for the aroma profile of vanilla. A study published in the Journal of Food Science found that the most important compounds responsible for the differentiation between the variety of vanilla beans were vanillin, anise alcohol,

4-methylguaiacol, p-hydroxybenzaldehyde/trimethylpyrazine, p-cresol/anisole, guaiacol, isovaleric acid and acetic acid.

KEY VANILLA OIL BENEFITS 1. Contains Antioxidant Properties The antioxidant properties of vanilla oil protect the body from wear and tear by neutralising free radicals. Antioxidants are substances that help prevent certain types of cell damage, especially those caused by oxidation. Oxidation is one of the biggest causes behind most of our health troubles and diseases. It leads to the formation of free radicals, which are very dangerous to the body’s tissues and have been connected to cancer and premature ageing.

High-antioxidant foods and plants are evaluated by ORAC score (oxygen radical absorption capacity), which tests the power of a substance to absorb and eliminate free radicals. A study published in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry noted that pure vanilla extract, which was made with cured vanilla beans and 60 per cent aqueous ethyl alcohol, has high levels of antioxidant activity. The study noted that the results “point towards the potential use of vanilla-extract components as antioxidants for food preservation and in health supplements as nutraceuticals”.

2. Boosts Libido Vanilla oil stimulates the secretion of certain hormones like testosterone and oestrogen, which helps people who suffer from erectile dysfunction, impotence and loss of libido. Erectile dysfunction, for example, comes in many degrees and can be caused by low levels of testosterone, medications, poor diet, fatigue, stress, depression or other illnesses. The good news is that around 70 per cent of these cases are restored with home remedies and natural treatment methods for impotence.

Thankfully, vanilla oil has been shown to improve hormone levels, mood and outlook on life.

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3. Relieves PMS Symptoms Because vanilla oil activates oestrogen levels, it also regularises

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menstruation and relieves PMS symptoms. PMS symptoms are experienced by over 75 per cent of menstruating women, and hormone balance is the primary factor that determines these symptoms. Common PMS symptoms include fatigue, bloating, skin issues, emotional changes, breast tenderness and cramps.

Vanilla oil serves as a natural remedy for PMS and cramps because it activates or balances hormone levels and manages stress, leaving your body and mind relaxed. Vanilla oil works as a sedative, so your body isn’t in a state of hypersensitivity while experiencing PMS symptoms; instead, it’s tranquil and the symptoms are minimised.

medication that treats depression and obsessive compulsive disorder. The study concluded that because the vanillin was able to cause a significant reduction of immobility in the mice, as indicated in a forced swim test, the sedative properties make vanilla oil effective in naturally treating depression.

6. Reduces Inflammation Inflammation is associated with just about every health condition, and researchers are furiously investigating chronic inflammation’s effects on health and possible preventive medical applications. Luckily, vanilla oil is a sedative, so it reduces stress on the body such as inflammation, making it an anti-inflammatory food; this is helpful to the respiratory, digestive, nervous, circulatory and excretory systems.

Because vanilla is high in antioxidants it reduces damage caused by inflammation. Vanillin, the component with the most antioxidant value, has the power to lower cholesterol naturally and reduce triglycerides levels and symptoms of rheumatoid arthritis. Rheumatoid arthritis is caused by an autoimmune dysfunction where the white blood cells destroy the cartilage.

This may be related to food allergies, bacterial infections, stress or excess acid in the body. Vanilla oil’s anti-inflammatory, sedative and antibacterial properties make it a perfect natural arthritis treatment.

7. Lowers Blood Pressure Vanilla oil’s sedative effects on the body allow it to naturally lower blood pressure by relaxing the body and mind. High blood pressure is when the pressure on the arteries and blood vessels becomes too high and the arterial wall becomes distorted, causing extra stress on the heart. High blood pressure levels can put you at risk for having a stroke, heart attack and diabetes.

A major cause of high blood pressure is stress; by relaxing the muscles and mind, vanilla oil is able to lower blood pressure levels. Vanilla oil also helps you to get more sleep, which is another easy way to lower blood pressure levels. Vanilla oil serves as a natural remedy for high blood pressure because it also acts as an antioxidant, so it reduces oxidative stress and dilates the arteries.

HOW TO IDENTIFY QUALITY VANILLA OIL 4. Fights Infections Some components present in vanilla oil, such as eugenol and vanillin hydroxybenzaldehyde, are able to fight infections. A 2014 study published in Basel, Switzerland, examined the effectiveness of vanilla oil as an antibacterial agent when used on the surface of bacterial cells. The study found that vanilla oil strongly inhibited both the initial adherence of S. aureus cells and the development of the mature biofilm after 48 hours. S. aureus cells are bacteria frequently found in the human respiratory tract and on the skin.

5. Works as an Antidepressant Vanilla has been commonly used as a home remedy from the 17th century to fight anxiety and depression with nutrition.

Vanilla oil has a calming effect on the brain, which helps with anger, insomnia, stress and anxiety. A study published in the Indian Journal of Pharmacology found that vanillin, one of the main components of vanilla oil, demonstrated antidepressant activity in mice, which was comparable with fluoxetine, a

It’s important to note that most of the cheap vanilla oils available commercially contain a ton of synthetic ingredients or are heavily processed. Finding 100 % pure vanilla oil is very unlikely and expensive. When you look to buy vanilla oil for its health benefits, keep in mind that the higher the vanillin content, the more premium quality aroma you get.

For instance, look for vanilla Co2 total extract, which is typically used in aromatherapy. Vanilla Co2 total extract contains 26 % vanillin, while the vanilla extract that is used for cooking contains only 2 %. Many companies try to sell low-level vanillin products as “vanilla essential oils”, so you need to read the labels carefully. Vanilla is not an “essential oil” in the same way that lavender oil, peppermint oil and thyme oil are because it is not steam-distilled, expeller-pressed or cold-pressed.

You will find vanilla Co2 total extract (the highest quality), vanilla absolute (when extracted with a solvent like alcohol), vanilla dilution (when Co2 or absolute is blended with a carrier oil) or vanilla tincture (when beans are soaked in an alcohol base). Because of the confusing forms of vanilla, read the labels;

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the higher percentage of vanillin, the better the product. The price of a vanilla absolute or Co2 extracted oil costs over $100 for an ounce! If you plan on using a purchased vanilla oil on your skin or internally as medicine, make sure you choose a reputable company that has a high percentage of vanillin. Here’s a more cost-effective option that you can create at home: To make a vanilla-oil infusion, buy whole vanilla beans or pods from your local health-food store, preferably organic, then chop them into pieces and remove the seeds. Add them directly to a carrier oil (you want to pick an oil that isn’t very fragrant, like jojoba oil). Let the mixture sit for at least a week – with time the fragrance will be stronger. Keep the mixture in an airtight container. You can filter out the pods when you’re ready to use the oil, but it’s not necessary.

To make a vanilla-oil tincture, soak vanilla pods in a jar of 151-proof rum for two weeks. Use a strainer to remove solid particles, and keep the tincture in an airtight container.

FDA banned coumarin in foods in the 1950s because it’s not safe for consumption.

HOW TO USE VANILLA OIL

You can also contact a pharmaceutical-grade aromatherapy supplier and access therapeutic-grade vanilla oil from them as well. It is an amazing ingredient with multiple benefits.

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RELAX: To relax your body and mind, massage 10 drops of your homemade vanilla oil-infusion into your neck, feet, chest and stomach. This relieves muscle aches, PMS cramps, feelings of anxiety and works as an antibacterial agent.

IMPROVE SLEEP: To improve sleeping patterns, inhale 3–5 drops of vanilla oil before bed or make your own vanilla-oil bath by adding 5–10 drops to warm water.

DIY PERFUME: To use vanilla oil as a DIY perfume, add 10–20 drops to a spray bottle and mix it with equal parts carrier oil (like jojoba or almond oil) and water. You can spray this vanilla-oil mixture on your sheets, furniture, body and hair.

SKIN HEALTH: To use vanilla oil for skin health, add 2–3 drops to your daily face wash or lotion. To soothe burns and wounds, rub 2–3 drops of pure vanilla oil to the needed area.

IN A DRINK: For internal benefits, add five drops of pure vanilla oil or a vanilla oil infusion to your daily tea or coffee.

Ref: Article: Dr Axe: Vanilla Oil Helps Balance Hormones, Reduce Inflammation & Prevent Cancer www.organicfacts.net/health-benefits/essential-oils/vanilla-essentialoil.html

POSSIBLE CONTRAINDICATIONS Vanilla is safe to ingest, but there are potential side- effects. If you mix vanilla beans or pods with a carrier oil in order to make an infusion, make sure you use a carrier oil that’s safe for consumption (like coconut oil). Some side-effects of using vanilla oil internally or topically are irritation, inflammation or swelling. It’s a good idea to start with small doses and work your way up from there. If you use vanilla oil on your skin, apply it to a small patch first.

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Remember that pure vanilla oil is an expensive product, so if you find it for a bargain price, it probably isn’t a high-quality product. Read the labels carefully and understand that pure vanilla oil products are the most beneficial to your health. Other products contain synthetics and lab-produced vanillin. Look out for a vanilla extract produced in Mexico that’s mixed with tonga bean extract, which contains a chemical called coumarin. The

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betterhealth

OVERCOMING FATIGUE IN THE WORKPLACE FOR INCREASED PRODUCTIVITY

By Ron Bass

In order to succeed in business you will need a clearly defined and consistently implemented action plan. However, one of the biggest sabotages to progress in the workplace often is fatigue.

Ron Bass is a holistic naturopath, counsellor and life coach.

Here he presents the three most common areas that business owners struggle with that contribute to fatigue and challenge productivity.

Throughout my 25 years as a naturopath I've regularly encountered entrepreneurs and business owners complaining about their constant struggle with fatigue. In this article I would like to present three key areas that ultimately contribute to fatigue and simple solutions to help you overcome these challenges.

Sadly, so many people are too busy being entrenched in their occupational duties to enjoy their lifestyle, regardless as to whether they are self-employed, a business owner or a professional. Unfortunately, so often as a result of today's hectic pace, many are suffering from stress, fatigue and even pain and this can be as a result of their current habits as, ultimately, neglecting our personal care will catch up with us. As our workload and responsibilities increase so the need to re-evaluate any changes to our habits. It is important that we identify what is no longer supporting us and serving our current needs and what habits are no longer protecting our quality of life.

1. POOR LIFESTYLE

Interestingly, we may also become unaware of how some of our daily habits are changing and impacting us negatively. It may be those disguised aspects about your mindset, attitudes, habits and behaviour that covertly sabotage your success in life. It may be, as an example, choices that you make, how you eat, who you spend time with, what you do and what you don't do. Your first step to improving your lifestyle is to become more conscious of what you habitually do each day.

I've observed that the main aspect that hinders our progress towards wellness is attributed to a poor lifestyle. Your lifestyle is the way that you live – it's your habits and what you do most of the time – these collectively make a difference in your life.

Start by taking note of at least 10 things that you do habitually each day. Ask yourself, are they benefiting you or do you need to change them? Then, consider ways that you would like to

The first mistake is directly linked to the way you live.

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improve them. Look at your tolerance levels for example. Are you getting short and cynical with people or situations you are not comfortable with? Do you tend to gravitate towards sweet food when you are feeling a little stressed? Evaluate your habits and determine if they are serving you, or do you need to make some changes?

The second critical issue that leads to increased stress is:

2. RESISTANCE TO CHANGE So many people nowadays are suffering unconsciously from their inability to be flexible to change when the need arises.

They become rigid and reactionary to various challenges in life without identifying that for change to happen for the better, they need to consider the changes they will need to make in their own attitude to improve their lifestyle. In fact, often unresolved issues that remain persistent are major contributors to stress, pain and fatigue.

I have often found that while most are keen to adopt a healthy and successful lifestyle, often they are resistant to changing their ways. From my experience, it seems that sometimes we can lack a true appreciation of the various elements that collectively contribute to our success and a healthy lifestyle.

To evaluate your situation take a few minutes to write down at least 10 things that you can be grateful for with your current lifestyle. Then, endeavour to note 10 things that you'd like to improve.

Maybe consider such areas as being too distracted, being addicted to your mobile phone, maybe watching too much TV, too much food, alcohol, caffeine, nicotine or other habits such as unnecessarily creating some sort of drama.

Last but not the least, another issue that contributes to stress, fatigue and loss of productivity is not identifying and tapping into your true passion.

3. LACK OF FINDING YOUR PASSION Sadly many people are not following their passion. They're not excited or 'fired up' about engaging in the adventures of their day. To become more alive, we need to restore enthusiasm, passion and joy back to living. Take some time now to reflect upon your journey throughout life and ask; how much good quality time do you enjoy in activities that bring you pleasure?

Many people are spending too much time doing the things that they dislike, and then don't have enough time to engage in those things that brings them greater pleasure.

Ask yourself now, how much time do you allow yourself to do what you truly love? Ask how you can bring more passion into your work and life.

HOW TO MAKE THE CHANGE To help handle habitual resistance and reaction patterns, we need to find a way to change.

First, you need to clearly define the problem. Often, merely by clearly defining the problem makes it much easier to find suitable solutions. Then, the next step is to apply these solutions into your lifestyle in an integrated way. You will probably find that by simply resolving challenges in an integrated way this will help to improve the quality of your life.

To create change from a mundane existence of enduring stress, pain and fatigue to enjoying a lifestyle of more love and laughter can be a simple and easy process. Here is what I call the essential Conscious Creation four-step process.

Step 1: Assessment Identify and measure the various effects of your stress, pain and fatigue. Simply take a pen and paper now and write the results down and allocate a percentage for each one. We may see their manifestations in several ways, such as stiff neck and shoulders, aches and pains throughout the body and feeling heavy, lethargic or run-down. Maybe you observe that you are no longer engaging in your daily activities quite as enthusiastically as you once did. Essentially, what you see here are merely the signs and symptoms of your various resistance and reaction patterns to the major challenges in your life.

The second step is to seek solutions.

Step 2: Seek Solutions Somehow, within every problem, there is also a solution waiting to be found. Brainstorm possible solutions that could help to make things better. Realise how these solutions could open up new opportunities for you.

Once you identify solutions, it is now time to implement them.

Step 3: Implementation It's said that if nothing changes, everything will stay the same.

Action changes things. In this step, write down a schedule of prioritised tasks to be completed to apply the solutions to your lifestyle an integrated way.

Once the implementation plan is identified and applied, it is now time to evaluate.

Step 4: Evaluation At this stage you simply monitor the feedback from yourself and others on how well the changes have been improving the quality of your life. Use this evaluation to refine the four-step process to continue to improve your lifestyle.

RON BASS N.D.,D.R.T., D.C.H., A.N.T.A Ron is a holistic Naturopath, Counsellor and Life Coach. He is also a Bio-energetic remedial therapist. Since 1990, Ron Basswill has successfully helped thousands of individuals and business owners improve their way of life throughout Australia. During 2016 Ron be presenting a series of 'Mojo Mentoring' Life-Style Seminars throughout the East Coast of Australia, from Cairns to Melbourne. The focus of these events is an 'Holistic' approach, with processes to help you 'Find, Ignite and Boost your Mojo'. Your mojo is your special niche in life, it's where you shine more than anyone else. These seminars are ideal for the likes of entrepreneurs, business owners, executives, managers and all seekers of an improved lifestyle.

To f i n d o u t m o r e v i s i t : www.blissversity.com

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healthresearch

WHY ARE SLEEP TROUBLES MORE COMMON IN WOMEN THAN MEN?

by Tina Viney Sleep is one of those wonderful "remedies" that enables the body to heal and repair itself and therefore plays a very important role in skin health. A good night's sleep can literally take years off your face through the internal repair that it induces. This is why examining the issue of sleep should be included in every consultation for skin evaluation. In this article we look at what causes sleep disruption and ways to assist your clients to improve their quality of sleep for better skin and health.

Both men and women need high-quality sleep to function optimally, but according to several surveys, women are far less likely to achieve this than men. One poll by the National Sleep Foundation (NSF) revealed that two-thirds of women experience a sleep problem at least a few nights each week, and up to half said they wake up feeling unrefreshed.1 In a separate NSF poll, women were more likely than men to report experiencing insomnia at least a few times a week, and the average woman between the ages of 30 and 60 reported sleeping just six hours and 41 minutes on weeknights (even though closer to eight hours is optimal).2

Why Are Sleep Troubles More Common in Women Than Men? So what are some of the considerations why women may experience lower quality sleep than men?

Hormonal shifts Levels of oestrogen and progesterone fluctuate during a woman's menstrual cycle and are thought to affect women's sleep. Oestrogen works on several different neurotransmitter pathways that may have an impact on the regulation of sleep, and

progesterone can have a hypnotic property. Fluctuations in these hormones may have an effect on the circadian rhythm.

Pregnancy and Children Pregnancy brings with it a host of sleep-disrupting symptoms, like physical discomfort, frequent trips to the bathroom and heartburn. Conditions such as restless-legs syndrome and sleep apnea may also begin during pregnancy and interfere with sleep.

After pregnancy, care of the baby, then toddler, further interferes with quality sleep. Even after children start sleeping through the night, many women have trouble sleeping as soundly as they used to.

Menopause Menopause brings its own set of troubles for women's sleep, including hot flushes and night sweats. Obstructive sleep apnea also tends to increase in women during the menopausal and postmenopausal years, and a key symptom of this may be insomnia.

Stress, Anxiety and Depression Women tend to be more vulnerable to feeling sadness and anxiety than men, according to research, and feel the pressures of stress more than their male peers, both at work and at home.

Stomach-churning anxiety, for example, is far more common in women than men, as are feelings of sadness in response to stress, and not being able to stop thinking about that which worries them.5 All of this can interfere with a sound night's sleep.

Circadian Rhythms Change in the Elderly Elderly people are another population that tends to have increased trouble sleeping. Health issues, such as frequent urination or pain, can keep seniors up at night, as can sleep

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apnea. Further, as you get older your body's internal clock gradually adjusts to earlier bedtimes and wakeup times. If you don't listen to your body and go to bed earlier (instead choosing to stay up late), sleep deprivation may result.6 Your circadian rhythm (sleep-wake cycle) actually "drives" the rhythms of biological activity at the cellular level, and certain genes regulate these daily activity patterns. Researchers from the University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine in Pennsylvania recently looked into the rhythm of such gene activity in the brain and particularly how it changes with age.

By analysing thousands of genes from brain samples, they found significant changes in the daily rhythms of older people. As 7 reported by Medical News Today: They found that younger people had the daily rhythm in all the classic 'clock' genes. Older people appeared to have lost rhythm in many of these genes, but they also had a set of genes that gained rhythmicity. Senior investigator Colleen McClung, Ph.D., believes this could explain some of the changes that older people experience in sleep, cognition and mood.

The discovery may also help explain some of the molecular changes that occur in people with depression (which is associated with disruptions to daily routines). It may also help explain why people with dementia may become more agitated and confused in the evening (a phenomenon known as "sundowning").8

found to be beneficial in improving sleep duration and quality.10Alternatively, almonds and spinach are rich in magnesium, which is known for promoting sleep and relaxing muscles. In general, eating a high-protein snack several hours before bed may help you sleep, as it can provide the Ltryptophan needed for your melatonin and serotonin production.

Eating a small piece of fruit along with it makes sense, as this can help the tryptophan cross your blood-brain barrier. The opposite also holds true in that certain foods can significantly interfere with your sleep.

Foods and beverages with too much caffeine would certainly be among them, but so would spicy foods before bedtime, which are linked with more time spent awake during the night and taking longer to fall asleep.11 I recommend avoiding before-bed snacks and stopping eating at least three hours before bedtime.

Not only is this important to optimise your mitochondrial function and prevent cellular damage from occurring, but it will also lower your blood sugar during sleep and help minimise damage from too much sugar floating around. Additionally, it will jumpstart the glycogen depletion process so you can shift to fat-burning mode. A study published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences is a powerful confirmation of this recommendation, as it found that the mere act of altering your typical eating habits – such as getting up in the middle of the night for a snack – causes a certain protein to desynchronise your 12 internal food clock.

How Changing Your Diet Might Improve Your Sleep If you're having trouble sleeping, your diet might be the last factor you'd consider changing in order to help – but it should be among the first. Excessive daytime sleepiness and poor sleep quality are common symptoms reported by obese people.

Dietary changes may help to combat this, regardless of body weight, according to new research. The study involved obese mice that were fed either a regular or high-fat diet for eight weeks.

This can throw you off kilter and set a vicious cycle in motion.

Eating too close to bedtime, or very late at night when you'd normally be sleeping, may throw off your body's internal clock and lead to weight gain. Routinely eating at the wrong time may not only disrupt your biological clock and interfere with your sleep, but it may also devastate vital body functions and contribute to disease.

Some of the mice were then switched to the alternative diet for one week, which resulted in weight gain and loss among the high-fat and regular diet groups, respectively.

At week nine of the study, the two diet switch groups had similar body weight but significant changes to their sleep/wake cycles, which were thought to be caused by the acute dietary changes.

According to the study, which was published in the journal Sleep:9

It's often said that modern-day humans' sleep suffers from our 24/7 lifestyles. However, UCLA researchers studied preindustrial, hunter-gatherer societies in Tanzania, Namibia and Bolivia and found they do not sleep more than "modern" humans. Instead, members of these societies sleep about 5.7 to just over seven hours a night, going to bed several hours after sunset and often awakening before sunrise.13 This seems to suggest that perhaps modern humans don't need as much sleep as we've been told.

The implications of this study are that obese people likely don't need to lose all of their excess weight to begin to experience improvements in sleep. Changing to a healthier diet that jumpstarts weight loss may lead to improved sleep even after just a short time.

However, this was addressed in an interview by Chris Kresser with Dan Pardi, a researcher who works with the Behavioral Sciences Department at Stanford University and the Departments of Neurology and Endocrinology at Leiden University in the Netherlands.

Certain Foods Are Known to Help Promote (and Disturb) Sleep

According to Pardi, the sleep duration, which is the length of time the hunter-gatherers actually spent sleeping, was between 5.7 and seven hours. However, the sleep period, which is the total time spent in bed, was seven to 8.5 hours a night. As long as you're providing your body with adequate time in bed, it's OK if sometimes you sleep more and sometimes less, Pardi told Chris Kresser:14

Do You Really Need Eight Hours of Sleep a Night?

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Many people grew up drinking a glass of warm milk before bed to help lull them into sleep, and you may have "graduated" as an adult to a cup of warm chamomile tea, which is known for its calming properties. Certain foods, too, are known for their sleepinducing effects.

Cherries, for instance, are a natural source of the "sleep hormone" melatonin, and drinking tart cherry juice has been

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The Impact of Temperature on Your Sleep Another important point Pardi mentioned has to do with how

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temperature affects your sleep. The UCLA study found that temperature appears to be a major regulator of human sleep duration and timing. According to Current Biology: The sleep period consistently occurred during the night-time period of falling environmental temperature, was not interrupted by extended periods of waking, and terminated, with vasoconstriction, near the nadir of daily ambient temperature.

The daily cycle of temperature change, largely eliminated from modern sleep environments, may be a potent natural regulator of sleep.

Indeed, thermoregulation, your body's heat-distribution system, is strongly linked to sleep cycles. Even lying down increases sleepiness by redistributing heat in your body from the core to the periphery. When you sleep your body's internal temperature actually drops to its lowest level, generally about four hours after you fall asleep. Scientists believe a cooler bedroom may therefore be most conducive to sleep, since it mimics your body's natural temperature drop.

This is also why taking a warm bath 90 to 120 minutes before bedtime may also help you sleep; it increases your core body temperature, and when it abruptly drops when you get out of the bath it signals your body that you are ready for sleep. While there's no set consensus as to what temperature will help you sleep the best, in most cases any temperature above 75 degrees Fahrenheit and below 54 degrees will interfere with your sleep.15 Once you're within that range, many factors can influence which temperature is best for you including, of course, your choice of pyjamas and bedding. Many people keep their homes too warm (particularly their upstairs bedrooms). Studies show that the optimal room temperature for sleep is actually between 60 to 68 degrees F, so adjust your thermostat (or use of blankets and fans) accordingly.

Interestingly, while a cool room and a lower core temperature may help you sleep better, cold hands and feet will not. Because blood flow is a prime method of distributing heat evenly throughout your body, if your extremities are cold it could be a sign of poor blood flow, which results in sleeplessness. The solution for this is simple: put on a pair of warm socks or place a hot-water bottle near your feet.

Quality Sleep Can Come Easy Like healthy eating and exercise, getting high-quality sleep is something that you can actively work at and improve in your life. Proper "sleep hygiene" is important for both men and women to achieve more restful, restorative sleep. Here are some expert recommendations: ! Avoid watching TV or using your computer in the evening, at least an hour or so before going to bed.

These devices emit blue light, which tricks your brain into thinking it's still daytime. Normally, your brain starts secreting melatonin between 9 p.m. and 10 p.m., and these devices emit light that may stifle that process. ! Make sure you get BRIGHT sun exposure regularly.

Your pineal gland produces melatonin roughly in approximation to the contrast of bright sun exposure in the day and complete darkness at night. If you are in darkness all day long, it can't appreciate the difference and will not optimise your melatonin production. ! Sleep in complete darkness, or as close to it as possible. The slightest bit of light in your bedroom can disrupt your body's clock and your pineal gland's melatonin production. Even the tiniest glow from your clock radio could be interfering with your sleep, so cover your radio up at night or get rid of it altogether.

Move all electrical devices at least three feet away

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from your bed. You may want to cover your windows with drapes or blackout shades. If this isn't possible, wear an eye mask.

Install a low-wattage yellow, orange or red light bulb if you need a source of light for navigation at night. Light in these bandwidths does not shut down melatonin production in the way that white and blue bandwidth light does. Salt lamps are handy for this purpose. You can also download a free application called F.lux that automatically dims your monitor or screens.17 Avoid using loud alarm clocks. Being jolted awake each morning can be very stressful. If you are regularly getting enough sleep, you might not even need an alarm.

Get some sun in the morning, if possible. Your circadian system needs bright light to reset itself. Ten to 15 minutes of morning sunlight will send a strong message to your internal clock that day has arrived, making it less likely to be confused by weaker light signals during the night. More sunlight exposure is required as you age.

Maintain a regular sleep schedule. You should go to bed and wake up at the same times each day, even on the weekends. This will help your body to get into a sleep rhythm and make it easier to fall asleep and get up in the morning.

Establish a bedtime routine. This could include meditation, deep breathing, using aromatherapy essential oils such as chamomile and lavender. The key is to find something that makes you feel relaxed, then repeat it each night to help you release the tensions of the day.

If you can't sleep, don't stay in bed. Lying in bed trying to sleep is frustrating and can create anxiety. If you can't fall asleep, leave your bed and listen to some soft music or read a book until you feel sleepy, then go back to bed and try again.

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Be mindful of electromagnetic fields (EMFs) in your bedroom. EMFs can disrupt your pineal gland and its melatonin production, and may have other negative biological effects as well. A gauss meter is required if you want to measure EMF levels in various areas of your home. Ideally, you should turn off any wireless router while you are sleeping. You don't need the Internet on when you are asleep.

Ref: Dr. Marcola Sleep December 1, 2015 Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences December 22, 2015 Greatist December 18, 2015 Medical News Today December 22, 2015 Newsmax January 3, 2016 ChrisKresser.com November 26, 2015 1 National Sleep Foundation December 20, 2013 2 National Sleep Foundation, Sleepiness in Women 3, 4 NYMag.com December 2015 5 The Guardian, March 14, 2013 6 WebMD

TRAIN or UPSKILL in COSMETIC TATTOOING Offer your clients an exceptional service!

Cosmetic Tattooing offers a very rewarding profession for Beauty Therapists who wish to extend their scope of practice.

This is a very exciting and rewarding profession. Improve confidence and self-esteem like no other modality and transform lives through the amazing techniques of Cosmetic Tattooing.

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Janette Zakos has 25 years’ experience as a Master Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioner and has 10 years’ experience in teaching these techniques.

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Gain Government-Approved qualifications as a: !

New Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioner !

Upgrade your existing training, skills and knowledge to a Government-approved qualification.

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If you are an already trained and experienced Cosmetic Tattooist then you may qualify for Recognition of Prior Learning. Why not find out today?

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For further details Phone Janette Zakos today 0414 389 603 or email janettezakos@gmail.com APJ 67

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taxationmatters

YOUR TAX RETURN MADE EASY Simple guidelines from a Tax Agent

By Vanessa Kirkham The end of the financial year is a very critical time when tax returns need to be finalised and submitted. While most have an accountant who will prepare their tax return and BAS statements, business owners are often nervous about making sure they have completed their tax obligations with regards to their staff. Vanessa Kirkham is a qualified accountant and registered Tax Agent. In this article she provides guidance to businesses who wish to ensure that they are fully compliant by answering several questions that she hears regularly.

Question: This is my first year in business and I am unsure what to do to ensure that I meet all of my taxation obligations for my five employees. Is there anything that I need to do to meet my payroll obligations for the 2016 financial year?

The tasks that you need to complete are different depending on if you use a computerised system or keep manual records, so I will run through both. Here are the key tasks that need to be completed for Employee Obligations: 1. First, you will need to reconcile the annual payroll prior to providing employees with their Individual Payment Summaries 2. Employees should receive their Individual Payment Summaries by 14 July 2016 3. PAYG Withholding annual report is due to be lodged by 28 July 2016 4. Superannuation is due and payable on 28 July 2016

Individual Payment Summaries

! !

Recheck the quarterly (monthly if annual PAYG is over $25,000) PAYG payments against the activity statement lodged Make note of any adjustments required

If you are using a Manual record you will need to:

! ! ! !

Add up each quarter for each employee and summarise Write up the individual payment summary for each employee Summarise all individual payment summaries and enter details on the PAYG withholding annual report, complete all applicable portions on the form Provide employees with their copy of the individual payment summary

If you are using a Computerised record system you will need:

!

Depending on the computer program used you can either print or email Individual Payment Summaries

Once you have completed these you will need to lodge the annual report with the ATO.

Please note the Superannuation Lodgement and payment dates for the 2017 Financial Year are: 01 July - 30 September 01 October to 31 December 01 January to 31 March 01 April to 30 June

28 October 2016 28 January 2017 28 April 2017 28 July 2017 (seek advice from your tax agent re the benefits of lodging and paying Super before 30 June 2017)

If you are late in lodging and paying your Superannuation Guarantee obligations you may be required to complete and lodge Superannuation Guarantee Charge Statements (SGC Statements). Discuss with your bookkeeper or tax agent. Type NAT9599 into the search engine in Google if you require the form. A form is required for each quarter and the forms can be completed online, printed, signed, then posted to the ATO for lodgement.

Question: I don't have either a bookkeeper or a tax agent, what should I be looking for?

When choosing a tax agent or a bookkeeper it is important that you find people that understand the aesthetics industry. You need to be comfortable that when your bookkeeper/tax agent is discussing your business that they understand the unique complexity of our industry. Yes, the Beauty and Hairdressing Award is the same, both industries work with clients using complementing therapies, however, that is where the similarity ends. The cost of setting up each business can vary by tens of thousands of dollars. The aesthetics industry is growing in Australia. Treatments can be as simplistic as a lash tint or underarm wax through to Laser treatment to remove tattoos and beyond. Your Bookkeeper/tax agent should have an understanding of your unique needs. This is very important.

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Question: I have read the skincare supply company's recommended usage per treatment and am not sure how to cost my treatments to make sure that I don't lose money. Is there an easy way of doing this?

Costing treatments and services is individual to each salon, clinic or spa. You need to look at every detail of the business from the cost of rent, cost of laundering through to the last cotton pad used in the treatment and everything in between. I sit with my clients each year and run through the cost of their treatments and services. We work through all of the fixed expenses then the variable expenses. Your business is an extension of you, you put your heart and soul into ensuring that everything is perfect – running smoothly and meeting the goals and targets that you have set for your business. Therefore, undercharging for treatments/services because of miscalculating all of your expenses can mean that you may have a busy business with many clients, but still running at a loss. As a business owner you need to make sure that every possible expense is included in your calculations.

The best way to ensure that you are not running at a loss when charging your clients is to work through the process of each treatment and service. You will need to start from setting the room right through to receiving your client, and work your way through each step of the treatment until your client leaves your premises, and itemise everything you are using. Once all of the information is gathered you will need to break down the cost applying to each treatment/service and also cost the exact time allocated for each treatment/service. Collate all of the information including employee wages (+ % for on costs such as Workcover as well as Superannuation costs for employing your staff member who will be doing the treatment).

Question: What information should I take with me to lodge my tax return?

Before you visit your Tax Agent be sure that that you have everything ready and in order. Below is a list for the main items that you will need in preparation for your visit. This information should be for the period 1st July 2015 to 30th June 2016: ! Bank Statements ! Loan Statements (if applicable) ! Activity Statements (if you have lodged yourself) ! Receipts for all your expenses ! Vehicle log books (if applicable)

Question: I have a vehicle, do I need to keep a vehicle logbook?

If you are using your vehicle for any business related transport then yes, it is important to keep records of the business movements. You may be surprised at the amount of business travel you currently do.

Question: What records do I need to keep for my motorvehicle logbook?

You can use a pre-printed logbook available through a stationery supplier, or you can create your own. You will require a logbook for each vehicle that you are intending using for business purposes and the log books must be for the same period of time.

Each logbook will be required to be kept for 13 consecutive weeks.

Question: How long is my logbook valid for?

enables your tax agent to calculate the business usage. If you notice that your business usage increases or decreases dramatically then it is best to start a fresh logbook.

Question: If I choose to create my own logbook?

If you choose to create your own logbook you will need to include the following information: ! When the period begins and ends ! The odometer reading at the start and end the logbook period ! Total kms travelled during the logbook period For each journey undertaken in the logbook period you will need to record the following: ! Date of travel ! Start and end odometer reading ! Destination and purpose ! Total business kms travelled

Question: When is the best time to visit my tax agent to prepare and lodge my business return?

Tax agents work all through the year, however, there are lodgement dates that they must follow to ensure that you do not receive any penalties or fines for late lodgement. Best rule of thumb is that when you prepare the June Activity Statement, all quarters information should be checked in preparation for the tax return. Once the June Activity Statement (for self-lodgers the June Activity statement is due 28 July) is lodged have your appointment with your tax agent to review the past year and enable your tax agent to prepare your personal and business returns being prepared and taking all of the expected documentation will assist your tax agent in a prompt preparation of financial records.

OLIVE GRAY BUSINESS SOLUTIONS We provide a flexible bookkeeping service, face-to-face or remotely.

Vanessa Kirkham has worked as a beauty therapist, and for the Tax Office. She understands the realities and needs of a salon business.

If you would like to discuss your needs with Vanessa please contact her on 0412 707 044

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Olive Gray Business Solutions is an APAN strategic partner.

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As a general rule of thumb your logbook will be valid for five years, however you can start a new logbook whenever you choose. Each year of the five-year period you will need keep track of the odometer readings for 1st July until the 30 June of the following year, writing them into the original logbook. This

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cosmetictattooing

THINK BEFORE YOU INK – Are there risks to tattoo removal?

By Christine Comans Tattooing is an ever-growing service that is accessed by many.

It represents landmarks in people's lives that have significance either with their relationships, views and values, or just for the purpose of belonging to a particular group, so the tattoo of choice may reflect or symbolise some of these elements.

However, as life goes on, individuals may move to another phase in their life and for various reasons they no longer relate to their tattoos and wish for them to be removed. This article

by Christine Comans presents what happens in the body when pigment is removed, and also presents some interesting findings of a recent study conducted by Centre for Forensic Science and Chemistry, School of Biomedical, Biomolecular and Chemical Sciences at the University of Western Australia.

Cosmetic tattooing has become an increasingly popular service offered by practitioners in the beauty industry. As an art form tattooing has been practised almost since antiquity especially in

both the Maori and Polynesian cultures. The word tattoo is derived from the Tahitian “tatau”, which means “to mark”. Early tattoo designs indicated allegiance to a group, significant pair bonding, or used as an initiation into manhood. Little has changed over the centuries.

In recent years, the number of individuals with tattoos has increased significantly. A recent survey revealed that almost one-quarter of the US adult population has a decorative tattoo, with 17% of them having considered treatment to remove their tattoos. Popular demand has created a huge surge of poorly trained practitioners into the beauty industry, which has increased the demand for the removal of badly applied cosmetic tattoos. Requests for removing tattoos are a common source of referral. All methods of removal, including removal by laser, have the possibility of leaving a scar. Cosmetic Tattooists often offer different removal services using either over tattooing called correction or saline removal where the skin is abraded; the

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saline solution applied, and the area is left to develop a scab that will draw out the ink.

METHODS OF TATTOO REMOVAL Plastic surgeons and dermatologists use quite a few different techniques to remove tattoos, often depending on the type of tattoo, colour and location. Removal options from medical professionals may include a controlled partial thickness burn applied by salt abrasion, applying trichloroacetic, formic, tannic or nitric acids or with liquid nitrogen. Or they surgically remove the pigment with dermabrasion by trangential excision.

Carbon dioxide, argon, Ruby and dye tunable lasers and infrared coagulation have all been used without much success.

In recent times laser technology has improved, but tattoo removal remains a painfully long, arduous process requiring ongoing multiple sessions and is most definitely not a quick fix.

With the growing demand for the removal of unwanted tattoos and the development of new techniques to meet this demand it has led to the realisation that the actual mechanism of tattoo formation and the preservation throughout the life span of the tattooed individual appear to be unknown. Free ink particles among collagen fibres and in macrophages have been reported.

Evidence implicating foreign-body reactions has also been published.

The stability, shape and colour of a tattoo all appear to remain relatively unchanged for several years. This observation implies that the pigment must remain in situ in the skin, and the pigment must not react with the host tissue.

Consequently, a study was undertaken to answer the following questions:

Become An

EXPERT Cosmetic Tattooing has come a long way over the years. New, more sophisticated tools, new techniques and trends can allow a skilled and welltrained practitioner to become very much in demand. Ever-growing in popularity, Cosmetic Tattooing offers an amazing and very fulfilling career with tremendous scope, both for those who are artistic and those who are compassionate and nurturing.

Sara Naderi is a qualified beauty therapist and Cosmetic Tattooist who has international training and over 20 years’ experience in Cosmetic Tattooing. Training with Sara will allow you to benefit from her expert techniques, while you can also qualify to receive government-approved qualifications in SIBBSKS504A Design & Perform Cosmetic Tattooing.

Sara is a APAN Corporate Platinum (Cosmetic Tattoo) Member Member of the Australasian Cosmetic Tattoo Professionals

COURSES AVAILABLE: ! Initial Training in Cosmetic Tattooing to Governmentapproved qualifications ! Refresher courses to advance your skills and knowledge in Eyeline, Lipliner, Full lip, Eyebrow techniques Sara is also a specialist in Eyebrow Threading and offers highly skilled training in her unique method. Other courses also available.

How profound is the skin injury caused by the tattoo process?

What happens to the epidermal-dermal junction basement membrane? How are the pigment particles prevented from moving through the skin? How is it possible for the tattoo to remain without distortion or change of location?

To answer these questions, ultra-thin random and serial sections of tattoos were examined at the ultrastructural level.

Tattoos were removed from volunteers for cosmetic purposes and those involved in the study had previously had their tattoos applied by both amateurs and professional services. Biopsies were taken 24 hours, one month and 40 years post-tattooing.

Biopsy specimens were examined in an electron microscope.

Diameters of the tattoo-ink particles were measured with an analysis system developed specifically for morphometric image analysis.

RESULTS OF THE STUDY Twenty-four Hours post-tattoo: The site was covered with a scab, the damage to the epidermis and papillary dermis was ultrastructurally extensive. Homogenisation of the epidermis, epidermal-dermal junction and dermis was almost complete. A few small clusters of keratinocytes remained attached to each other, connected by desmosomes. Epidermal and inflammatory cells displayed ink particles in their cytoplasms.

Pigment particles were also found in the intracellular space as well as in keratinised cells.

PUREBEAU NEW GENERATION COSMETIC TATTOO PIGMENTS AND EQUIPMENT Sara is also the Exclusive Distributor of the German-made world-leading Cosmetic Tattooing pigments and equipment PUREBEAU. Sophisticated and outstanding new high-tech equipment that meets with European and Australian standards and offers state-of-the-art solutions to allow for safe, effective and precise application of cosmetic tattooing and medical pigmentation.

For further information on training or to enquire about our amazing world-leading devices and pigments contact PUREBEAU Australia E: info@purebeau.com.au P: 1300 667 719 | M: 0405 463 636 W: www.purebeau.com.au | W: www.schb.com.auAPJ 67 APJ 66

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One Month post-tattoo: No scab or inflammation was present, inflammatory cells had disappeared. Desmosomes were present and attached to tenofilaments, and there was a reforming basement membrane at the epidermal-dermal junction.

Aggregates of pigment particles in the basal cells were large and bound by a membrane. In the dermis, the ink-containing cells were concentrated along the epidermal-dermal border and were closely surrounded by collagen. The RER of these cells was very prominent and studded with ribosomes. The cytoplasm was packed with organelles, but had very little RER. Phargosomes varied in content of a mixture of ink particles, melanosomes and lipid droplets. Mast cells, endothelial cells, pericytes and Schwann cells did not contain ink particles. Neither was pigment found in the lumina of blood and lymphatic vessels, nor extracellular.

Forty years post-tattoo: All the ink particles were found to be located in the dermal cells. The epidermis no longer had signs of any pigment particles. Basement membrane was found to be intact and continuous at the epidermal-dermal junction. Ink particles were discovered throughout the upper dermis, but were within the boundary of the cell membrane.

During the early stages of the acute inflammatory reaction, many cells become involved in cleaning up the cellular debris while simultaneously taking up pigment particles. Macrophages and other cells were found in and infiltrated the epidermis via a destroyed basement membrane. These cells seemed to help in the removal of the pigment particles. After one month, removal of pigment particles through the epidermis was still in progress.

Ink particles were still found in keratinocytes, macrophages and fibroblasts. Once reformation of the basement membrane at the epidermal-dermal junction had been completed, the concentration of ink particles in the epidermis decreased. Cells containing ink do not penetrate into the epidermis through the fully reformed basement membrane. A prominent network of connective tissue elements surrounded each of the cells containing ink particles. In order for the tattoo to remain as a straight line, it would be imperative for the cells to remain stationary. How and why the tattoo-ink particles remain in fibroblasts is not known, but the observation that fibroblasts are integrally responsible for the lifespan of the tattoo is supported by previous study results obtained in a rabbit.

The observations of the study indicate the possibility that the pigment particles change host fibroblast many times. The infrequent nearness to, or contact with, other cells and/or each other, as well as the presence of the connective tissue matrix that surrounds the fibroblasts, appears to enhance and serve to protect the stability of the tattoo. The lifespan of a dermal fibroblast is currently undetermined, but based on the electron microscopical observations reported of the trial, the implication is that those fibroblasts may have a very long lifespan, possibly as long as the host.

POTENTIAL RISKS The chemical composition of tattoo pigments has varied greatly over time according to available technologies and materials. The demand for tattooing is increasing as it gains cultural popularity and acceptance in today's society, but ironically, the increasing numbers of individuals who are seeking laser removal for their tattoos may be unaware of the risks associated with the mechanical destruction of the pigment particles caused by the laser. Small pigment particles, carcinogenic amines generated

by laser-induced cleavage of azo dyes, along with unknown decomposition products simultaneously get removed from the skin via blood vessels or the lymphatic system. There are no studies to identify the long-term risks or consequences of laser removal on the human body.

Advances in a nanosecond and picosecond laser technology and methodologies have seen improved results in tattoo removal.

However, in-vitro experiments show potentially toxic and carcinogenic decomposition products formed when using lasers to treat two common red tattoo inks. Two anilines and one pnitrotoluene created as a result of the laser irradiation were found to exist pre-exposure, presumably as precursors or by-products during synthesis of these pigments.

Organic pigments are favoured for tattooing because of their high tinting strength, lightfastness, enzymatic resistance, dispersion and relatively inexpensive production costs.

Currently, regulatory bodies in Australia have not established any regulations for the approval of any coloured inks to be injected into the skin.

Individuals at both the Centre for Forensic Science and Chemistry, School of Biomedical, Biomolecular and Chemical Sciences at the University of Western Australia conducted a chemical in situ analysis of organic tattooing pigments by microRaman spectroscopy.

A methodology was confirmed using a micro-Raman spectroscopy applied to an animal model to establish and identify the constituents of ingredients in a selection of modern, organic tattoo inks in situ or post-procedure within the skin, developed to serve as a preliminary tool before engaging in Qswitched laser removals to assess the risk of the laser producing potentially hazardous compounds in the skin. Likewise, the same pigments that may responsible for causing adverse reactions in some patients may be quickly identified to hasten any corresponding treatment.

ABOUT CHRISTINE COMANS Christine Comans is a qualified and highly respected cosmetic tattooist based in Perth who specialises in medical cosmetic tattooing. Her work is highly regarded by several plastic surgeons who keep her busy through constant referrals of their patients to her for several procedures, including nipple areola after mastectomy. Christine also is a trainer of Cosmetic Tattooing and is passionate about industry standards and the importance of gaining governmentapproved qualifications.

Christine has been appointed as the Co-ordinator for the APAN membership classification – COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER. Contact Chris on 0419 965 933 or Email: comanschristine@gmail.com

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COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP)

Supportive of industry concerns and unrest, APAN has taken the baton and has established a new industry classification to offer Cosmetic Tattooists strong recognition and provide an effective path for a more secure future.

APAN launched COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) last year and it is revolutionising the recognition and integrity of Cosmetic Tattooists and is paving the way for the profession to be identified by best practice in line with Australian Standards.

Establishing CTARP as a registered industry classification was industrydriven and came after many qualified and experienced cosmetic tattooists raised serious concerns over the deteriorating training standards in Cosmetic Tattoo that currently exists, in particular with training being offered to noncosmetic tattooists to do just eyebrows.

To join CTARP the following prerequisite will be required:

! Must be a current financial member of APAN ! Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing Registration requirements:

!

Adhere to the APAN CODE OF ETHICS (Cosmetic Tattooing) and the relevant Australian Regulations as set out by State and Federal jurisdictions. A signed copy of this must be returned to the APAN Office.(Please note: If members also hold an American association affiliation they must understand that if there is any conflict in their Code of Ethics the Australian Code and regulatory requirements will overrule).

Cost of CTARP Registration: Adhere to the CTARP Code of Conduct.

CTARP Registration $110

!

Registration Benefits:

! Special Membership Certificate ! Special Membership Card ! Industry Code of Ethics (Cosmetic Tattooing) ! CTARP Code of Conduct ! Transparent CTARP logo for business window or door ! Included on APAN Website as preferred practitioners ! Other benefits from time-to-time Registration renewal requirements:

! Maintain currency of APAN Membership ! Evidence of participation in post-graduate training within the previous 24 months ! Evidence of attending at least one APAN conference per year.

!

If you require further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com The online application to join CTARP is found at www.apanetwork.com Applicants applying to become a Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) must provide evidence of currency of APAN Membership and their Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing.

So if you are a Cosmetic Tattooist and are committed to high standards of educational excellence and best practice, consider joining APAN and become a member of CTARP and be recognised among Australia's leading Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioners.

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APJ 107

salonbusiness

The two important Rs – Return and Retention – and the keys to INCREASING THEIR RATE

by Caroline Nelson Any successful business owner will tell you that key to their success is customer or client engagement with the objective of repeat business. In this article Caroline Nelson discusses some valuable strategies to establish the conversion from customer to loyal client.

I’m frequently asked what is the best way to increase clientretention rates. So this article will be a basic 101 on the best ways to convert the ‘one hit wonder’ customer who never returned and ways to keep regular clients loyal and engaged with your business for the long term.

My belief is if you want to make a change to retention rates you need to know the facts as they now stand before strategies and improvement can be successfully implemented. Let’s start with the ‘one hit wonders’. The first question to ask yourself is what is our current percentage rate of first-time customers who don’t revisit the business. And what are individual employees rates in securing a second revisit and ongoing rebooking.

Tracking data needs to go back three months, however, some may prefer to go back six months. Personally I prefer a threemonth tracking system because in general if you haven’t seen

someone for three months its most likely you’ve lost your chance and they have moved on to another beauty-service provider.

The data results can often be confronting if you see patterns forming, like a particular employee’s percentage rate markedly higher than her co-workers. Or it might be very few gift-voucher recipients ever rebook or return. It could even be certain treatments have low follow-up visits. This fact finding should give a clear insight to where the problem lies or if it’s on several fronts. And if it’s at all related to therapist skills, then addressing this as soon as possible is recommended. Today’s savvy consumer will not pay for poor service in any shape or form.

Once you are aware of the extent of the problem you need to check what is currently in place. In most instances a business will have a ‘Welcome’ procedure they follow for all new customers, and also “Miss You’ for those who haven’t visited for some period of time. But are these processes delivering results?

Are they being followed correctly? Or even are they being followed at all? If you don’t know or you haven’t been monitoring results then you have ‘dropped the ball’.

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If there’s one thing to seriously undermine the success of any business it is an owner and/or manager who doesn’t closely monitor every procedure and system that is part of their business operational plan. Owning a business means that you can never abdicate totally responsibility to employees, or even to a manager if you employ one. At the end of the day the buck will always stop with the owner, because no matter how good an employee of any level is, they do not have the ultimate commitment to make a success of the business like the owner will.

DO ‘WELCOME’ AND ‘MISS YOU’ COMMUNICATIONS REALLY WORK? The answer is yes, but only to a certain degree, and it will depend on how they are implemented. What is by far the best is to get the next booking immediately from the new client, and then quickly turn them into a client as soon as possible, as well as keeping your regular clients totally engaged with your business on multiple levels so they will always need to return. I will expand more on how best to accomplish this later in this article.

But first let's discuss why it is so very imperative that you reduce ‘one hit wonder’ customers and convert them into loyal regular clients. In past articles I have discussed the difference between a customer and a client, but for those who may not know this is a quick explanation.

A customer is someone who may only come in once or only occasionally. They haven’t developed a connection or relationship with the business or therapist, they book a service and receive only that treatment, nothing more and nothing less. A client is nurtured and valued by the business and therapist who want to deliver the best possible results for the client’s long-term benefit. To achieve this the therapist expertly identifies conditions and provide solutions. The customer only becomes a client when they trust the therapist’s recommendations and treatment plan. So in essence a customer (with little or no knowledge) buys what they think they need, whereas a client listens to professional advice and purchases these services and products for maximum results.

In most cases the ‘one hit wonder’ customer provides your business with little or no profit, in fact often the CAC (cost of customer acquisition) will be higher than the service price. More often it will only be at the second appointment visit that any profit will be made. To give you an idea of how to work out the CAC for your business use the following guideline.

The simplest method is to divide total annual marketing costs by the number of new customers acquired per year: example: Total Annual Marketing Costs = $15,000 Total Annual New Customers = 500 CAC would be = $30 So you can see from these numbers if the profit margin for a ‘one hit wonder’ customer is under $30 then you have made no profit.

On the other hand a regular client with an average $100 spend per month will spend over $1,200 per annum. I’m sure you can see which your business needs.

I mentioned earlier in this article how important it was to keep your regular clients totally engaged on multiple levels so they will always need to return. What I mean by ‘multiple levels’ is

the number of different services and products the client regularly buys. For example, if only one type of service is performed and no products purchased the need to come back will be minimal.

However, if a client has a variety of services, plus purchases her skin and makeup products, she will have multiple reasons to return on a regular basis.

With competition running at an all-time high, and with rapid new developments in the aesthetic industry, keeping current and ontrend of new services is also vitally important. You can’t afford for your client’s interest to wane, and the most common reason is you’re no longer providing what they need, want or desire.

Today’s consumer is very well informed of what is available and the latest trends, and if you don’t provide them or something they believe offers equal or similar results they will move on. Loyalty is only held while they believe you are providing them with the best.

Another way of keeping clients engaged and trying new services and products is to hold very regular events and consult days.

While years ago holding one event per year might have been adequate I would suggest a minimum of four or more is necessary now. Planning is the key to event success (more on that in my next article).

THE 5 KEYS TO INCREASED RETURN AND RETENTION RATE 1.

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Be critically aware of the CAC (cost of customer acquisition) – make your marketing investment pay its way Start turning customers into clients from the first visit – set policies and procedures in place for the whole team to follow Track data – and make any necessary corrections immediately Improve and monitor post-treatment follow-up communications And keep clients engaged – with regular new services, products and events

Lifting your return and retention rates takes hard work and dedication, but it will deliver outstanding revenue results. So get cracking, fix any problems and keep focused on day-to-day operations so no more potential clients are lost. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2016

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specialises in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon/spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 0410 600 440.

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APJ 109

keyingredient

Why is Hyaluronic Acid Gaining

By Tina Viney

SCIENTIFIC MOMENTUM?

The credibility and benefits of hyaluronic acid are well supported body. With such a widespread occurrence, it is logical that HA by scientific literature and is therefore an ingredient that should be also has multiple functions. included in your product arsenal as a skin therapist.

Scientific studies have shown that HA improves skin hydration, Hyaluronic acid, also known as hyaluronan or hyaluronate, is stimulates production of collagen in skin, works as an antioxidant now widely available in capsules, skin creams and even and free radical scavenger, maintains skin elasticity, cushions injectables. But, why is it the magical ingredient that appears to be joints and nerve tissues, has an antibacterial and antion every skin manufacturer’s list and now also popular on inflammatory activity and maintains the fluid in the eye tissues, practitioners’ list as a supplement? In this article we present new which may help to protect against numerous possible eye concerns. advances that have put hyaluronic acid back in the spotlight.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a gel-like water-holding molecule that is the space filler and cushioning agent in all mammals. HA cushions joints, nerves, hydrates skin and hair, and fills the eye.

Although originally discovered in 1934 by Karl Meyer, HA gained momentum only after a visit by a reporter to the Japanese village of Yuzuri Hara to find out why both men and women in their 80s and 90s had smooth, wrinkle-free skin, flexible joints, full heads of hair and activity levels that defied their age. This was eventually found to be related to oestrogen-like molecules in their diet from soya and tofu, which sent signals to the cells to make more hyaluronic acid.

The average human body contains roughly 15 grams of HA, onethird of which is degraded and synthesised on a daily basis. This is where the problems arise! The manufacture of every single protective agent in the body declines with age and HA is no exception to this rule. Decreasing levels of hyaluronic acid are known to accompany the ageing process. and it is estimated that by the time we reach our mid-40s, the synthesis of HA is roughly half that required by the body.

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NEW DEVELOPMENTS FOR SKIN BENEFITS

Almost half of the body’s HA is located in the collagen of skin and it is logical that HA plays a vital role here. Hyaluronic acid helps to retain over 1000 times its weight in water within the cells of Our body contains HA and it is found in virtually every part of the skin, making it an excellent moisturiser. In fact, no other

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biological substance can retain as much water as HA, resulting in predominantly protect the increased smoothness, softening and decreased wrinkles. stratum corneum.

Equally important is its ability to remove waste matter from cells, On the other hand, formulations including those where there is little blood circulation. that offer a smaller molecular New studies are now confirming that hyaluronic acid is weight of hyaluronic-acid considered equally important, if not more important, than formulation have the ability to collagen. The most common application for hyaluronic acid is in penetrate to the epidermal/dermal anti-ageing therapy, particularly with cosmetic procedures such j u n c t i o n a t t h e s t a t u m as the elimination of skin imperfections and wrinkles, but these germinativum, where the cells are not without problems, and since HA is destroyed by the body, still have a nucleus, so they are able to help improve and support they need to be repeated regularly and are often expensive. internal hydration levels. With Hyaluronic-acid injections last longer than collagen injections. continued use they can assist the Injected HA fillers typically last four to six months, causing a skin to gain a more hydrated reduction in wrinkles and an increased plumpness to the dermis a p p e a r a n c e a n d t h e r e f o r e during this time. Since topical products with HA typically cannot discourage the development of penetrate to deeper layers, the moisturising effects from these will lines and wrinkles. only last a few days. Repeated use will maintain moisture levels in the skin, preventing skin dehydration. We will look at the various Because both hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate add injectables that have HA later in the article, however, let's take a moisture to the skin, and help it retain that moisture, from skin’s closer look at HA as found in topically applied cosmetic uppermost layers down to its dermis layer, they can have the effect of temporarily plumping wrinkles and fine lines (adding moisture formulations. to the skin always does that, but these ingredients supercharge the THE ISSUE OF MOLECULAR WEIGHT IN FORMULATIONS process).

In addition to seeing hyaluronic acid listed as an ingredient in skincare products, you’ve probably also seen the similarly named Topically applied, neither hyaluronic acid nor sodium sodium hyaluronate. There indeed is a connection; chemically, hyaluronate can have the same impact on your appearance as sodium hyaluronate is a salt derived from hyaluronic acid – and it dermal fillers, despite the advertising from some cosmetics has unique advantages for skin in comparison to “regular” brands, which imply that they can serve as a substitute for fillers.

This doesn’t mean they aren’t helpful for wrinkles; it’s simply that hyaluronic acid, although both are great. injecting dermal fillers goes beyond what topical application of Sodium hyaluronate’s main strength lies in its molecular size. anything can do in terms of filling deep wrinkles. Having said During the process of creating sodium hyaluronate, its molecular that, it is confirmed that fillers last longer if inserted into a healthy weight decreases due to the removal of lipids, proteins and skin with good hydration. Your topically applied hyaluronic-acid nucleic acids.[1] Removing these compounds makes the sodium products therefore can help enhance the hydration levels of the hyaluronate molecule much smaller than that of hyaluronic acid. skin and assist in ensuring that injectables last longer.

That means that the sodium hyaluronate, when applied topically, can penetrate the skin more easily than the hyaluronic acid, which HYALURONIC ACID IN INJECTABLES In the past few decades, various synthetic forms of hyaluronic makes the sodium hyaluronate an asset in skincare products. acid have been developed and used to correct disorders in the For hyaluronic acid to penetrate beneath skin’s surface it must be fields of rheumatology, ophthalmology and wound repair. More bioengineered to have a much lower molecular weight. Some recently, synthetic forms of hyaluronic acid are being brands do this; others don’t; and still others won’t tell you if they manufactured for use in face augmentation. do or not, leaving you to guess.

Several formulators – particularly professional brands such as Skeyndor and Christina Cosmeceuticals – have available products containing hyaluronic acid in various weights. It is important to remember that various weights offer different benefits to the skin. This is why it is important to ask your company about their molecular weight, not just the percentage. For example, the larger molecular weights cannot penetrate the skin and remain on the epidermis to provide skinbarrier protection. They assist the skin by protecting it from losing moisture due to environmental factors.

However, they do not contribute to any regenerative benefits as they

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When hyaluronic-acid was originally introduced as an injectable for the face there were only a couple of products available.

However, because of their proven safety and compatibility to the skin there are now many brands of injectables that contain hyaluronic acid.

These include: ! Captique ! EsthĂŠlis ! Elevess ! Hylaform ! JuvĂŠderm ! Perlane ! Prevelle ! Puragen ! Restylane

waste products, often acidic in nature, that arise from the destruction of the cartilage matrix and hence eases joint pain. As an antioxidant, it further supports joint health by protecting joint destruction due to free radicals. Hyaluronic acid can be administered by way of injections directly into the knees, although treatment can be very expensive and often needs to be repeated due to its natural breakdown.

THE ROLE OF HYALURONIC ACID TO THE EYES

Hyaluronic acid is found in the vitreous fluid in the eyes and gives them their shape and characteristics. The first hyaluronic-acid medical product was intended for use in eye surgery specifically for cataract surgery and glaucoma and was used to hasten the healing process following surgery. Since hyaluronic acid lubricates the eye tissues, it is of great benefit for people suffering from dry eyes. Oral supplements of HA may also help your All these hyaluronic-acid formulations are synthetic and not eyesight. The reason for this is that as we age, less HA is found in derived from animal sources. the eye tissues and it is required to help support the eye structures.

When this gel is injected, it acts like an inflated cushion to support GUM HEALTH facial structures and tissues that may have lost volume or Did you know that hyaluronic acid also plays an important role in elasticity due to normal ageing. It also brings water to the surface gum health? Gum disease, and not tooth decay, is the single of skin to keep it looking fresh and supple. biggest cause of tooth loss. Hyaluronic-acid is an important While most of you within our practices are predominantly connective tissue component in the gums, helping with the involved with skin improvement, I still would like to highlight regeneration of fresh, healthy gum tissue as well as reducing any briefly the role of HA to other parts of the body as an appreciation inflammation that leads to bleeding gums. Several studies indicate that applying hyaluronic acid as a gel (Gengigel) helps to of how valuable it is to overall health. reduce bleeding gums and other indicators of gum disease.

THE BENEFIT TO JOINTS

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There are many additional benefits reported with the use of hyaluronic-acid, and these include faster wound healing, increased energy, dry-skin relief, improved muscular strength and increased mental alertness. What about taking hyaluronic acid as a supplement versus an as an injectable?

Most of us have heard of glucosamine supplements used for the treatment of arthritic conditions. Glucosamine belongs to a group of compounds known as glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). These compounds help you build stronger, healthier and more flexible joints. Hyaluronic acid is the most active form of GAGs and it works as a shock absorber, lubricating the fluid in the joint tissues ORAL DELIVERY OF HYALURONIC ACID as well as stabilising its breakdown. It also works to remove the The starting material for the hyaluronic acid found in several

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medical-grade injectables consists of HA extracted from the rooster combs. The combs of the rooster have been used for more than 20 years as a source of hyaluronic acid. Most of us are familiar with injectable hyaluronic acid due to its relatively common use for medical cosmetic purposes, however, it is also used for the prevention of pain through its healing properties for osteoarthritis of the knee. Its success has been attributed to its natural viscosity and ability to penetrate the extracellular matrix of the joint connective tissue.

An additional advantage of utilising this source is that it has been clinically shown that the purified hyaluronic acid in injectable form does not possess significant humoral or cell-mediated immunological activity. Stated in simpler terms, no allergic response occurs.

In Europe, Australian and the US hyaluronic acid has been approved for injection to help correct skin contours, as well as help to decrease the appearance of lines and wrinkles. It also has been injected to improve the appearance of scars.

References

Block, A., and Bettelheim, F.: Water Vapor Sorption of Hyaluronic Acid, The American College of Rheumatology recommends Biochim Biophys Acta 201, 69, 1970 hyaluronic-acid injections and suggests they may have disease1. Goa K. L. and Benfield P.: Drugs 1994, 47: 536-566. modifying benefits, making them superior to NSAIDs.3,4 2. Laurent, T., and Gergely, J.: Light Scattering Studies on Hyaluronic Acid, J Biol Chem 212, 325, 1955.

INJECTABLE VERSUS ORAL HYALURONIC ACID 3.

George E. Intra-articular hyaluronan treatment for osteoarthritis.

Orally administered hyaluronic acid is different than injectable Ann Rheum Dis 1998;57:637-40. hyaluronic acid. The very properties that make injectable 4. Wobig M, Bach G, Beks P, Dickhut A, Runzheimer J, Schwieger hyaluronic acid so successful are the same ones that make it G, et al. The role of elastoviscosity in the efficacy of impossible to be absorbed through the intestines in oral form. viscosupplementation for osteoarthritis of the knee: a Absorption is the uptake of substances into or across tissues. comparison of hylan G-F 20 and a lower-molecular-weight When referring to hyaluronic-acid absorption, it must be able to hyaluronan.

Clin Ther 1999;21:1549-62. enter the epithelial cells of the small intestine before it can enter 5. Weiss C, Balazs EA, St. Onge R, Denlinger JL. Clinical studies the bloodstream and make its way to its intended target sites. In of the intraarticular injection of HealonR (sodium hyaluronate) in its natural state, the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid (1.2 - 1.5 the treatment of osteoarthritis of human knees. Osteoarthritis million Daltons) makes it too large for oral absorption. symposium. Palm Aire, Fla., October 20-22, 1980. Semin Arthritis Rheum. 1981;11(suppl 1):143-4.

The scientific community was faced with a dilemma. Knowing 6. New Zealand Dermatological Society, Dec 2, 2002. that HA is essential to the health of the extracellular matrix, 7. Oral Delivery of Hyaluronic Acid Absorbs Effectively in Joints, synovial fluid, skin, cartilage and one of the main components for Apr 18, 2004. proper healing of scars, how could it be made into an absorbable form?

Japanese researchers discovered an answer. A process was developed whereby hyaluronic acid was treated ensymatically to produce polymers. The process was patented in Japan (Patent no.

2971860) and is unique to a product known as Injuv. The original hyaluronic acid from the rooster combs weighs anywhere between 1.2 - 1.5 million daltons. The polymers weigh 5,000 daltons. This low molecular weight HA can be absorbed by the intestinal tract, proven by case studies and pharmacological data.

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Subsequent research has proven the absorption of oral delivery of hyaluronic acid and its ability to be taken up by joints. The results of this study, which examined the absorption, excretion and distribution of radiolabelled hyaluronic acid after a single oral administration in Wistar rats and Beagle dogs, demonstrated that HA is absorbed and distributed to organs and joints after a single oral administration.

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nutitionalscience

The role of Protein in Weightloss Cheating hunger for weight management, better skin and better health

by Tina Viney

Maintaining your optimal weight not only contributes to looking and feeling great, it also contributes to better health.

In the contemporary aesthetic salon or clinic skin is no longer the only focus. Technology is now offering us some amazing tools to help support body shaping and weight management.

Wellness is indeed the "beauty" focus of the future.

Research is now confirming that in the past we had it wrong in how we achieved weightloss and maintained it. Dieting was not for the faint-hearted when calorie restriction meant that you had to endure gruelling hunger if you were to achieve noteworthy weightloss. These diets were often low in fat and high in carbohydrates. They were not only difficult to endure, but worse still, the moment you went off them the weight slowly started to return.

Today's research findings confirm the value of good fats and quality protein not just for weightloss, but also for better health and longevity. I recently came across some amazing information presented by Dr Ski Chilton.

Dr Chilton, PhD is a professor of physiology and pharmacology at Wake Forest University Medical School. He has published over 140 scientific articles, authored four bestselling diet and wellness books including, Inflammation

Nation and the Gene Smart Diet, and is an inventor with over 30 patents. I have a great deal of respect for his work and consider him what I call a "new generation" modern scientific thinker that is not afraid to embrace new advances in medicine that explore the role of diet and natural means of support health. In a recent article Dr Chilton discussed the importance of protein for better health and weightloss that I found most enlightening.

Protein has long been considered the go-to supplement by weightlifters and bodybuilders to increase muscle mass. But the more we learn about this macronutrient, the clearer it becomes that protein's benefits extend far beyond sports nutrition. In fact, a growing body of research indicates that it can promote satiety (helping you feel full for longer periods of time) and, as a result, aid in weight loss.

THE RESULTS OF RECENT SCIENTIFIC STUDIES Here is one of the major ways it is thought to work. Our major blood vessel, the portal vein, is responsible for draining blood from our gastrointestinal tract. Your portal vein is lined with muopioid receptors (MORs). These MORs are a main communication channel between your gut and your brain. When MORs are stimulated, they send the message to your brain that you're still hungry and that you should eat more. When MORs are inhibited, the brain receives the opposite signal to limit food consumption. Researchers have found that certain peptides,

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which are by-products of protein digestion, send signals to the brain and gut that lead to the suppression of MORs, resulting in the curbing of appetite.1 Additionally, protein stimulates the production of cholecystokinin (CCK), a hormone that signals satiety, and inhibits the release of a hormone called ghrelin, which sends out the "I'm hungry" message.

Animal and human studies that have tested the effectiveness of protein in this regard have revealed that, compared to fats and carbohydrates, protein produces stronger and longer feelings of fullness.

One study examined blood levels of ghrelin in 10 volunteers who received, on separate occasions, a high-carbohydrate, high-fat and high-protein meal. While ghrelin levels fell after all three meals, after 180 minutes, only the high-protein meal maintained those low levels. This means the "I'm full" message lasted the longest following the protein-rich meals. Given these results, the researchers suggested that, "partial substitution of dietary protein for carbohydrate or fat may promote longer-term 2 postprandial ghrelin suppression and satiety�.

In another study, scientists compared high-protein versus normal-protein breakfasts on appetite, satiety and snacking in overweight or obese girls.

For six days, 20 participants ate either cereal (13 g protein) or an egg/beef-rich breakfast (35 g protein), or skipped breakfast altogether. While eating any kind of meal was better than going hungry when it came to long-term daily fullness, the highprotein breakfasts produced greater satiety than the normalprotein meals. The high-protein meals (but not the normalprotein meals) also lowered ghrelin and elevated peptide concentrations – both of which, as mentioned earlier, keep appetite suppressed for longer periods of time.3 Another study in obese men demonstrated that increasing protein to 25 per cent of calories reduced the desire for late-night snacking by 50 per cent and reduced obsessive thoughts about 4 food by 60 per cent.

Not surprisingly, boosting your protein intake can also help with weight loss. A study of 65 overweight or obese participants assigned either high-carbohydrate, high-protein or control diets resulted in weightloss after six months of 5.1 kg in the high-carb group and 8.9 kg in the high-protein group. The high-protein group also lost more fat and decreased their triglycerides and free fatty acids compared to the other groups.5 In another trial, 46 overweight or obese women who followed similar-calorie high-protein or normal-protein diets for 12 weeks all lost body fat and weight, but the high-protein dieters lost less lean body mass, and they had higher perception of satiety and pleasure, despite being on reduced-calorie diets.6

IDENTIFYING THE BEST PROTEIN FOR WEIGHTLOSS Proteins are made up of 20 amino acids – nine of which are essential (they come from food alone), the remainder of which are nonessential (the body can produce them on its own).

Proteins from animal sources often offer all, or most, of the essential amino acids in highly absorbable forms.

Eggs are, by far, one of the best food sources of complete protein.

They contain all 20 amino acids, and one medium egg has about 6 grams of protein.

Of course, chicken, pork and red meat are also significant protein sources, as are certain nuts (such as pistachios) and milk and other dairy products. In fact, milk-based proteins, namely whey and casein, contain glycomacropeptide, a peptide that fuels CCK production.7 And let's not forget about fish such as salmon, trout and shrimp, which are great sources of both proteins and omega-3 fats and offer an optimal nutrient combination.

THE VEGETARIAN'S CHOICES If you're not a meat or dairy connoisseur, grains such as quinoa, buckwheat and amaranth are top vegetarian protein choices. (In fact, quinoa and amaranth are complete proteins, containing all nine of the essential amino acids.)

Strive to include protein with every meal you eat. And to ensure you're getting sufficient amounts, also consider supplementing with whey protein powder. It's not just for bodybuilders! Anyone can (and should) use it. Whether you mix it with water, add it to a smoothie or shake, or sprinkle it on top of yogurt, chicken, a salad or some other food, adding whey is an effortless way to make sure you're consuming plenty of protein intake and enhancing satiety. You can find many quality whey products at health-food stores and vitamin/supplement retailers.

CONCLUSION The role of protein is not just important for weightloss. Collagen, for example, is responsible for muscle integrity in both the body and the skin. Amino acids, which are the building blocks of protein, play a key role in supporting their strength and integrity.

Wasting muscles contribute to the appearance of ageing. You only need to look at an anorexic to identify this. We therefore need to not lose sight of the role of diet in supporting skin and muscle integrity as part of our anti-ageing strategies.

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REFERENCES

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1. Duraffourd C, et al. Cell. 2012 Jul 20;150(2):377-88.

2. Tannous dit El Khoury D, et al. Ann Nutr Metab. 2006;50(3):260-9.

3. Leidy HJ, et al. Am J Clin Nutr. 2013;97:677-88.

4. Leidy HJ, et al. Obesity (Silver Spring). 2011 Apr;19(4):818-24.

5. Skov AR, et al. Int J Obes Relat Metab Disord. 1999 May;23(5):528-36.

6. Leidy HJ, et al. Obesity (Silver Spring). 2007 Feb;15(2):421-9.

7. Keogh JB and Clifton P. Am J Clin Nutr. 2008 Jun;87(6):1602-5.

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keyingredient

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Why CASTOR OIL is gaining popularity

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by Tina Viney

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It's amazing, but in an era when cutting-edge technologies are offering us better and better formulations that promise to achieve new standards in skin rejuvenation and wellness, we are also seeing a strong return and a renewed interest in humble ingredients and herbs that our grandmothers used to use.

There is no doubt that Nature has its own formulations that often in themselves are complete with numerous therapeutic constituents working synergistically together to achieve notable therapeutic properties.

Perhaps because of scientific advances in research methodologies we are now able to view humble plants through new, more sophisticated lenses.

Being influenced by this trend my latest fascination has been with Castor Oil, which I would like to share with you in this article because if its many useful uses.

For centuries, at the first sign of illness, many mothers and grandparents would immediately turn to giving their children castor oil either topically or internally to naturally boost immune function and speed up healing. Derived from the seeds of the castor-bean plant (Ricinus communis), records show that many years ago the plant was referred to as the “Palma Christe” because the shape of the plant’s leaves were said to resemble the palm of Christ.

Folk healers worldwide have used castor oil to treat a wide variety of health conditions for thousands of years. The use of castor oil goes as far back as the ancient Egyptians, who used it to treat eye irritations and as a powerful, natural, skincare remedy. In India, castor oil has been prized for its skin-healing, digestive-soothing, antibacterial properties and is commonly used in traditional Ayurvedic medicine practices.

CASTOR OIL'S IMMUNE-BOOSTING PROPERTIES Throughout history, castor oil’s most popular use has been for treating skin infections, lowering constipation and boosting the appearance of hair health. However, new research has identified it has amazing therapeutic constituents that support the immune system, and for this reason it has many applications.

produced by cold-pressing the seeds and subsequent clarification of the oil by heat.

Aside from its primary constituent, ricinoleic acid, castor oil also contains certain beneficial salts and esters that function primarily as skin-conditioning agents. At the same time, they help stabilise the texture and consistency of products, which is why castor oil is used in so many cosmetics, hair and skincare treatments.

According to the International Journal of Toxicology, castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil reportedly were used in 769 and 202 cosmetic products, respectively, during the time of an analysis in 2002! Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil is the name given to the type of castor oil used in cosmetics, which you might find listed on the ingredient label, especially in lipsticks.

CASTOR OIL BENEFITS As an unsaturated fatty acid, ricinoleic acid found in castor oil has many healing abilities, including: ! supporting the lymphatic system ! increasing circulation ! preventing the growth of viruses, bacteria, yeasts and moulds ! fighting skin disorders and infections ! helping to kill ringworm, keratoses, skin inflammation, abrasions and fungal infections ! healing acne ! helping hair grow ! reducing itching and swelling on the skin ! fighting toenail fungus ! easing constipation ! hydrating chapped lips ! reducing painful sunburns ! helping with pregnancy and inducing labour ! and many more

Studies now confirm that castor oil is capable of increasing white blood cells and the count of T-11 cells (a type of special white blood cells that act like antibodies) produced within the body’s lymphocytes that help kill viruses, fungi, bacteria and cancer cells.

One of the major reasons castor oil has strong immuneenhancing effects is because it supports the body’s lymphatic system. The most significant role of the lymphatic system, which is spread throughout the whole body in small tubular structures, is that it absorbs and removes excess fluids, proteins and waste materials from our cells.

Many of castor oil’s benefits come down to its chemical composition, which is classified as a type of triglyceride fatty acid. Almost 90 per cent of its fatty acid content is a specific and rare compound called ricinoleic acid. Castor oil is considered to be pretty unique because ricinoleic acid is not found in many other substances, and it’s such a dense, concentrated source. It is

Lymph nodes located within these tubes act like the body’s natural filters for toxins, and they also pump out antibodies when we’re sick to keep foreign proteins or bacteria at bay. If you’ve ever had an enlarged lymph node in your neck or near your genitals, for example, this is a sign that a high level of antibodies are being released in order to fight an infection near that area.

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of times to get rid of the greasy feel). What I love about castor oil is that it is odourless, so just a few drops massaged into the scalp can do wonders while you sleep without being disrupted by a fragrance while you sleep.

2. Treats dandruff and other scalp conditions Among its many properties, castor oil also has anti-fungal and antibacterial properties.

Massaged into the scalp, it will help to clear up dandruff and other scalp conditions quickly, and if you use it regularly it will stop the conditions from taking hold in the first place.

When the lymphatic system isn’t working properly, this can eventually lead to the failure of many healthy cells and possibly degeneration and destruction of organs. For example, poor lymphatic drainage of the heart is linked to tissue damage, which can add to or worsen coronary heart-disease conditions.

Aside from capturing leaking fluid from our tissues that contain waste, increasing function of the circulation system and helping create defensive antibodies for the immune system, the lymphatic system also helps absorb lingering fat molecules within the small intestine. In fact, a large percentage of all the fat absorbed from the gut requires the help of the lymphatic system.

Some fat molecules remain unabsorbed because they’re essentially too large to move from the small to large intestine.

This means they can be released into the lymphatic system and then into the bloodstream, where they can be carried throughout the body to be used for fuel.

USE FOR COSMETIC PURPOSES Castor oil has many amazing uses. However, for the purpose of this article I will predominantly focus on the cosmetic benefits as there are many simple ways that you can incorporate it into your treatments.

1. Castor oil for hair growth How to make your hair grow faster? Use castor oil! Castor oil contains omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids, both of which are useful for encouraging healthy hair growth. With regular use, castor oil will encourage new growth and thicken existing strands to give you a beautiful and shiny head of thicker hair.

Massage slightly warmed-up castor oil into your hair and scalp and it will improve the blood circulation to your follicles, promoting faster hair growth. The oil will nourish your hair as well. For a really deep effect, after massaging the oil into your roots and spreading all over your hair (up to the ends), make a bun and cover your hair with a cap, leave the oil on overnight and wash out the next day (you might need to wash your hair a couple

If you have dry hair and dandruff, try doing this hair mask: mix 1 tablespoon of castor oil with one tablespoon of olive oil and add juice of half a lemon. If you have oily hair and dandruff, then mix one tablespoon of each of these ingredients: castor oil, honey and aloe vera gel, then add juice of half a lemon.

Apply the mask on the roots of your hair for about 30 minutes before shampooing and conditioning your hair. This mask will not only help you get rid of dandruff, but will also nourish and condition your hair, making it healthier and shinier.

3. Conditions and shines hair You don’t need expensive, manufactured conditioners to condition your hair, simply mix a couple of drops of castor oil with your leave-in conditioner and apply evenly to your hair; your locks will become softer and healthier with increased shine.

4. Stimulate lash and eyebrow growth and length If you desire to have longer eyelashes, but you don’t want to go for eyelashes extensions, then try applying castor oil on your lashes every night before going to bed. In a couple of weeks time you should see the great result: naturally longer and thicker eyelashes that you’ve always dreamt of. Castor oil is very soothing to the eyes so it will not only condition and stimulate growth of the lashes, it will also work as an effective eye cream.

Also, don't forget to rub some on your eyelashes. They will love it. It will stimulate healthy gloss and growth of your eyebrows as well.

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5. Great skin moisturiser Castor oil penetrates deep into the skin, softens and hydrates it.

The oil also helps to promote the production of elastin and collagen, which help to delay the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and gives the skin a more youthful appearance. Gently massaging the face in the evening with the castor oil, put a slightly warm, damp washcloth on your face for about a minute and take away the excess oil with a cotton pad. Your skin will be soft, nourished and hydrated. Castor oil also can be used to

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moisturise the gentle undereye area. Mix castor oil with sweet almond oil in proportion 1:1 and use it as your under-eye cream.

Castor oil is an amazing moisturiser to drench dry skin and restore its flexibility.

6. Sunburn remedy Thanks to its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, castor oil is a good remedy for sunburn.

Just apply castor oil mixed with coconut oil (in proportion 1:1) to the affected area and you will soon feel the relief.

7. Use castor oil as a lip balm Use castor oil as a lip balm to moisturise, nourish and care for your lips, and forget about dry and chapped lips for ever.

8. Treating mild acne The ricinoleic acid found in castor oil makes it a superb natural treatment for mild acne. Wash the face first in warm water to open up the pores and then massage some of the oil into the face and leave it on overnight. Rinse off the next morning and you will find that any inflammation will subside.

9. Reduces the appearance of scars and prevents stretchmarks Over time, the regular application of castor oil can reduce the appearance of scars and stretchmarks. The fatty acids in the oil penetrate quickly into the scar tissue and promote the growth of healthy tissue around it, thus reducing the size of the scar itself.

10. Heals cracked heels and moisturises hands Castor oil is very easily absorbed by the skin and is an amazing treatment for dry hands or cracked heels. Massage it into the skin and see it quickly restore moisture to the skin and add softness.

OTHER HEALTH BENEFITS Inducing labour Not that we would recommend it as a home remedy, but castor oil can be used to induce labour in women that have gone the full term. This is due to the ricinoleic acid in castor oil, which can promote the start of contractions. For this reason it is not recommended to use the oil orally with pregnant women.

Eases the pain of arthritis Castor oil is well known for its anti-inflammatory properties and can be used as an effective treatment for arthritis.

Massage painful joints with the oil and then apply a warm compress for immediate relief.

Clears constipation It would be impossible to

talk about castor oil without mentioning constipation! The oil has a powerful laxative effect and one teaspoon in the morning will soon have your bowels moving again. Remember not to use it with pregnancy.

ARE THEIR ANY CONTRAINDICATIONS? Castor oil is classified by the FDA and TGA as generally recognised as safe for both topical and internal use, and as effective for use as a stimulant laxative. The Joint Food and Agriculture Organisation/World Health Organisation Expert Committee on Food Additives established an acceptable daily castor oil intake for adults of up to 0.7 milligrams/kilograms body weight. Its active ingredients are considered acute (shortlasting) and nontoxic.

That being said, taking too much is definitely a risk and can cause digestive issues like diarrhoea or cramping, among other problems. Some people experience nausea and signs of mild irritation in their gut lining when taking castor oil, although this isn’t common and is usually the case with pregnant woman.

Pregnant women, as we have mentioned, shouldn’t take castor oil without speaking with their doctors first since it can induce labour.

When it comes to using it topically on your skin the risks are very low, considering it’s free from common allergens, synthetic chemicals, drying ingredients or other irritants. Castor oil doesn’t commonly result in allergies, skin sensitivities or act like a photosensitiser, according to human clinical tests. However, it’s still best to start slowly and perform a skin patch test on a small area of your skin before applying larger amounts.

WHERE CAN YOU GET IT? I managed to get some organic-grade Castor Oil from my health store. It cost $12 for 100mls and I diligently use it every night.

It is my new must-have product that I have added to my beauty routine and loving it.

REFERENCES: www.stylecraze.com – The amazing benefits of castor oil Dr Axe: Castor oil speeds up health and improves immunity

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staffmatters

Deductions From Employee Wages

by Pointon Partners Lawyers Employment Division The issue of employers deducting certain expenses or fees for training from their staff wages can become contentious, however, it does occur. It therefore pays to follow correct guidelines on what is permitted and not permitted and what are the correct procedures one needs to follow when doing so.

APAN often consults members on this matter. Pointon Partners is the preferred legal advisor that APAN recommend and their strategic alliance partner when it comes to matters of the law – and in this instance, employment law.

In this article Pointon Partners present some interesting case studies and identify the key areas that every employer needs to understand when it comes to deductions, as well as some court cases outcomes when the guidelines were not correctly followed.

The Fair Work Act 2009 (Cth) ("FWA") provides that amounts payable to employees in relation to the performance of work must be paid in full and at least monthly.(1) These amounts for a relevant pay period include incentive-based payments and bonuses, loading, monetary allowances, overtime or penalty rates and leave payments.

WHEN CAN AN EMPLOYER MAKE A DEDUCTION FROM AN EMPLOYEE'S WAGE OR SALARY? Generally, an employer is prohibited from making any deduction from an employee's wage or salary. However, the FWA identifies circumstances in which an employer may deduct from an employee's wage or salary.

AUTHORISED DEDUCTIONS Here are the nominated instances and requirements that can allow an employer to deduct money from any employee's wages or salaries. Section 324 of the FWA provides that deductions by the employer may be made from an employee's wage or salary if: ! The deduction is authorised in writing by the employee and is principally for the employee's benefit; or ! The deduction is authorised by the employee in accordance with an enterprise agreement; or ! the deduction is authorised by or under a modern award or a Fair Work Australia order; or ! the deduction is authorised by or under a law of the Commonwealth, a State or a Territory, or an order of a court.(2)

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Issues can arise where an employer deducts monies from an employee's wage or salary. The FWA provides specific provisions regarding these circumstances and it is important that employers understand their obligations.

UNREASONABLE DEDUCTIONS The FWA states that certain terms of a modern award, an enterprise agreement or a contract of employment have no effect on the deduction of an amount payable to an employee in relation to the performance of work.(3) This includes

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whether a deduction of payment is directly or indirectly for the employers benefit.(4) Common examples of deductions from an employee's wage or salary by an employer that could breach the FWA include:

! ! ! ! ! ! !

Deductions to cover shortages from cash tills or cash floats Cost of training courses provided to an employee where the employee is directed to attend by the employer Cost of a mobile telephone provided to the employee for work-related use Cost of tools and equipment supplied to an employee Cost of damages to the employer's assets (including motor vehicles) Cost of breakages or accidents by employees Cost of an employee's uniform(5)

CIRCUMSTANCES IN WHICH A DEDUCTION IS CONSIDERED REASONABLE OR NOT Section 363(2) of the FWA provides that the Regulations may prescribe circumstances in which a deduction is or is not reasonable.(6) Regulation 2.12 of the Fair Work Regulations 2009 provides circumstances where deductions may be considered reasonable. These include:

!

!

!

The deduction is made in respect of the provision of goods or services by an employer, or partly related to an employer, and to an employee, and the goods or services are provided in the ordinary course of business of the employer or related party, and The goods or services are provided to members of the public on the same terms as those on which the goods or services were provided to the employee, or on terms and conditions that are not more favourable to the members of the general public; or The deduction is for the purpose of recovering costs directly incurred by the employer as a result of the voluntary private use of particular property of the employer by an employee (whether authorised or not).(7)

Examples of these circumstances include, but are not limited to:

! ! !

A deduction of health-insurance fees made by an employer that is a health fund A deduction for a loan repayment made by an employer that is a financial institution A deduction due to: (i) the cost of items purchased on a corporate credit card for personal use by the employee (ii) the cost of personal calls on a company mobile phone (iii) the cost of petrol purchased for the private use of a company vehicle by the employee.(8)

APPLICATION OF THE FWA IN THE FEDERAL COURT The recent case of Australian Education Union v State of Victoria (Department of Education and Early Childhood Development) [2015] FCA 1196 is considered one of the most significant "unlawful deductions" case made under the FWA, where over $20 million was deducted over a period of time from teachers and principals salaries as contributions to a laptop scheme.(9)

BACKGROUND Between 1 July 2009 and 29 November 2013, fortnightly deductions of between $4 and $17 were made by the State of Victoria (Department of Education and Early Childhood Development) ("SOV") from the salaries of teachers and principals who were involved in a scheme known as the "eduSTAR.NTP Program" (previously known as the Notebooks for Teachers and Principals Program).(10) This scheme provided teachers and principals with a 'laptop computer for use as a work tool'.(11) Although subject to some restrictions, the teachers were allowed to use the laptop computer for personal use.

The Australian Education Union challenged the lawfulness of the deductions from the salaries of teachers and principals in relation to the laptop computers.

THE DECISION Justice Bromberg found that the eduSTAR.NTP Program deductions were not permitted by section 324(1) of the FWA. The deductions were held to be "unreasonable in the circumstances", and were not principally made for the benefit of the teachers.

Further, the failure of SOV to have paid the teachers in full was a contravention of section 323(1) of the FWA. Any deductions from employee wages should be carefully considered to ensure they are permitted deductions allowed under the FWA. Pointon Partners has significant experience in the area of employee deductions.

If you have any queries or require any assistance in this area please contact Michael Bishop or Sophie Ware of our office on 03 9514 7707.

REFERENCES: (1) Fair Work Act 2009 (Cth) s 323 (1)(a),(c).

(2) Ibid s 324(1).

(3) Ibid s 326(1).

(4) Ibid s326(1)(c).

(5) Workplace Info (6) Fair Work Act 2009 (Cth) s 326(2).

(7) Fair Work Regulations 2009 Reg 2.12 (8) Ibid.

(9) Australian Education Union v State of Victoria (Department of Education and Early Childhood Development) [2015] FCA 1196 Summary, Bromberg J, 6 November 2015 at [3].

(10) Australian Education Union v State of Victoria (Department of Education and Early Childhood Development) [2015] FCA 1196 Summary, Bromberg J, 6 November 2015 at [3].

(11) Ibid.

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insurancematters

ASK THE INSURANCE GURU As we live in an age of litigation the risk of something going wrong and your client or patient suing their practitioner is progressively becoming commonplace. In this issue of APJ Suzanne Sparrow-Crisp of The Sparrow Group answers two members' questions on the all-important topic of insurance.

The objective of this column is to educate our members on the various elements of insurance, and clarify important information that will help them make better decisions.

Additionally, the aim will be to educate you on the best protocols to minimise the risk of a claim against your business.

APJ Q1: I am covered for Treatment Risk for my services as well as for Public Liability and believe that is all I need to be comprehensively covered in the case of an incident. Can you please explain the different policies and how they compare? What are their limitations and their benefits?

There are many different policies available on the market today and it can become very confusing as to exactly what they cover.

First, I would stress the importance of dealing with an Industry Specific Broker for your insurances. I have seen far too many business owners lose everything due to the fact they did not have the correct policies, especially in our industry. As a professional you need to ensure that you are covered for not only the treatments you are doing, but also the advice that you provide your clients.

In most cases a Treatment Risk policy is just that, it covers you for treatments that may go wrong, or not reach the outcome that the client expected, as well as for public liability. You also need to be careful to what extent an item listed will cover you. A good example is Cosmetic Tattooing. While this may be on the list of procedures covered, it may be limited to only certain activities e.g. lipliner and eyeliner only, so if you are doing any other procedure such as nipple areola or eyebrows they may not be covered. You may also not be covered for any advice you may be giving your clients.

I am finding that there are more and more treatments not being covered under a Treatment Risk policy, so I would recommend that you check with your broker to have in writing what you are covered for – please don't ever assume you are covered.

Public Liability will cover your client should they have an accident while you are treating them e.g fall off the chair, slip on mat coming into your premises. If you are sharing premises or operating from a home-based business, you do have to have your own public liability that is covering you for the treatments you are providing.

It is imperative for your business that your broker provides a Comprehensive Insurance Policy to cover all of these areas.

Alarm bells would ring should the broker not know what the treatments you are providing are! A Comprehensive Policy should provide cover for all treatments, advice as well as many other benefits that a business owner requires to be protected,

including a vicarious liability (for referrals) if you have contractors such as nurses or doctors performing injectables. This cover should be a minimum of $5 million if you are penetrating skin and a number of various other liabilities.

APJ Q2: I have had a business for 10 years and I have never been insured as I didn't believe that I needed it in the past.

However, I am becoming aware that more and more people do not hesitate within our industry to sue for damages . Can you shed some light on this. Are there any statistics on this trend in recent years, or any examples of incidents specifically to our industry?

Wow! Ten years. My advice would be to get your business insured as soon as possible. Yes, more and more people are suing for damages. There are many horror stories I could share with you regarding the number of claims we see surfacing on a daily basis right across the industry. You only have to watch the media to see how common this is becoming. We often see clients who have received treatments going back up to four years surfacing with claims, with clients attempting to sue a business they had the treatment with. If you have the correct policies in place, your insurer and their legal team should be able to deal with the situation and settle the matter on your behalf. You will not need to hire an external lawyer. However, should you have no insurance or the wrong type of policy the risk of losing your business or your personal assets is far too high. The reality is if you have a business you should have the correct insurances in place. I would advise as your best option to choose an industryspecific broker who understands your services to provide you with the correct policies for your type of business.

Why is this so important? Here is an good example of what can happen. An ex-client decided she wasn't doing anything that she believed would cause a claim so she didn't renew her policy. She decided to continue to operate her business, but without any cover. Six months later I received a distraught call from her. She had accidentally dropped some product in her client’s eye and the doctor’s diagnosis was not good. There was nothing anyone could do to help her as you cannot backdate insurance. In my experience I have found that it is no longer an issue of IF you ever have a potential claim arise, but rather WHEN. Suzanne Sparrow-Crisp is the Managing Director of The Sparrow Group – a Strategic Alliance Partner and APAN's preferred insurance broker. If you have a question please email it to us at info@apanetwork.com and mark the heading INSURANCE. We will select the question that is most in demand and forward it to Suzanne to address your concerns.

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When you want the perfect fit you need an

INDUSTRY SPECIALIST INSURER Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...

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APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE PROGRAM 2016

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Get ready for positive change Come celebrate with us!

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PERTH OCTOBER 23 In 2016 APAN will unveil the new construct that will elevate the Status of the AESTHETIC PRACTITIONER The Launch of the new Accreditation Program

CLEARER SHARPER AUTHORITATIVE !

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Redefining Industry Standards and the new breed AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER Establish a clearer definition of the Skin and Age Management Sector Clearer identification of the advanced practitioner to government bodies Elevate consumer recognition and respect of registered practitioners Sharper marketing strategies for business growth

GREAT NETWORKING | EDUCATION | LEADING INDUSTRY STRATEGIES | REGULATION UPDATES | CONSUMER TRENDS

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www.apanetwork.com | info@apanetwork.com | 07 5593 0360

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