APJ Vol 28 2016

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

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Autumn Issue Volume 28.

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Autumn Volume 28. 2016

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THE AESTHETICS INDUSTRY GAINS A NEW FORMAL CLASSIFICATION

APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERTM

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Raising the Standards – Improving Recognition

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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9 34-38 58-61 68-74 82-85 92-93 94-95 100-103

Heart-2-Heart Aesthetic Bulletin Champion of Champions – Profile of a great heart The APAN Story An Amazing journey from beauty and beyond Product Innovations Update on consumer trends in cosmetic procedures Business News

REGULATIONS, EDUCATION & TRAINING 16-17 40-43 50-53 76-78 79 109 122

Cover Story: The aesthetics industry gains a new formal classification ‘APAN Registered Aesthetics PractitionerTM’ Prevention and Photo-ageing Could your business benefit from National Standards Recognition?

Cosmetic Tattooing – Why is the public not protected?

Cosmetic Tattooing Master Class – Designer Eyebrows APAN Accredited Cosmetic Tattoo Training – Sydney Master Class Advanced Lip Techniques Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP)

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 34-36 54-56 62-63

The Driving Force Behind Rejuvenation Figs – The delicious fruit with benefits for skin and health Scientific studies reveal natural supplement can protect against skin cancer 86-88 What's in a hormone – Measurements and Interpretation 96-99 Combining therapies for Eye Rejuvenation 104-108 Scientific News

BUSINESS AND PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 10-13

Emotional Branding and Cause Related Marketing – The New Paradigms for connecting people to you and your brand 18-19 Think Pink/APAN – Skin and Wellness Month 23 Think Pink/APAN Ad 20-22 The Power of Good Relations for Wellbeing and Business Success 24-28 New Paradigm Shifts and the Power of Interior Design 64-65 How to consistently hit retail targets 80-81 How to get a story about your business published in the media 118-119 The Humble Tax-File Declaration 120-121 Ask the Insurance Guru

SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 46-49 110-113 114-117 124

APAN Aesthetics Conference – Brisbane Inaugural MyFaceMy Body Awards Australasia National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference APAN Aesthetic Conference Program 2016

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EDITOR’SNOTE Welcome to the first issue of APJ for 2016. I trust that you are fired up for an amazing year. Without a doubt there are numerous opportunities for those who are seeking to pursue their progress, either as practitioners or in building their business. Advances in technology will not allow us to get bored.

Competition is constantly driving new innovation and so the choices for us will always be numerous and on-going.

The other day I received a phone call from someone who was challenged about their future direction. "I love the skin and I am more and more driven towards skin-corrective procedures that are making a real difference to my clients through impressive skin improvement. However, while I am really excited about moving towards a more clinical approach in my practice, I am challenged to let go of everything else that I have learnt in my facial treatments that my clients really loved. In particular, my facial massage that they enjoy and which helps them also relax. Do I now have to let that go?" she lamented.

To consider her dilemma let's take a closer look at what is really happening with consumer trends. One of the key words we encounter in the latest research is the term multi-functionality. At the heart of that notion is that consumers want as many benefits as possible in one product. This trend has contributed to the development of the BB Creams and CC Creams. But since their launch what are we learning? The concept of a multifunctional product, while a novel idea, does not necessarily work when it comes to corrective skincare that need high concentration of actives, or advanced delivery systems to achieve specific outcomes. To correct a skin condition requires a targeted and focused approach, so the broad spectrum formulations that address a little bit of everything – sun-protection, hydration, a good foundation, anti-oxidant properties and a soothing formula may not always work for this purpose.

But wait a minute, let's reconsider the term – multi-functionality. In essence isn't it about getting as much as possible from one product – what about one procedure? Let's review this. Clients today are spoilt. They want everything and those that give them the most value will gain their loyalty and their dollar. The pendulum has swung from pampering to results. No-one can dispute that. However, clients are looking back and missing that feel good feeling they gained each time they had a treatment. New research is telling us they are missing the aspect of the skin-improvement experience. The latest findings point to a shift that consumers now want it ALL – results and a feel good experience! This is now also reflected in product formulations. Aroma, texture and packaging are once again appealing to the senses and this is consumer driven.

New training in dermal therapies is now focusing on results and not on experience, so many of the old manual techniques are slowly getting lost. If you came from a beauty therapy background, but you have now moved to specialise in skin and age management, it's advisable that you don't let go of any technique that will also help your client relax more and also feel wonderful. You may need to cut this aspect of your work to a shorter timeframe so that you can continue your focus on skin-improvement protocols, but if this is a skill you have, don't lose it.

Your clients want it – you can deliver it, so why not continue to do so? After all, this may just be your competitive advantage! Isn't it true that studies confirm that often no-verbal communications and feelings communicate more strongly than what we say verbally? So resurrect those wonderful massage and relaxation techniques and offer your clients results and an experience that will keep them coming back.

In this issue of APJ once again we profile new developments, both research findings as well as new initiatives that will shape the future of our profession. Enjoy this issue. We hope it will ignite your excitement with the new advances available to Follow Tina on you.

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APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

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Editor Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

Welcome to APJ

Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Shop7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-981 Print Post Approved [100000257]

Circulation 6900

FRONT COVER

Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) Cover Image courtesy of Spring Spa Wear

Phone: 07 55930 360 Email: info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

For further information see pages 16 and 17.

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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Heart-to-Heart A message from the President and CEO Dear Colleagues and Friends To say I am excited about this year is an understatement. I feel like a kid on Christmas morning ready to unwrap my presents.

Having worked on several projects for some time, we are delighted to announce that this year APAN is launching three major programs that promise to be major game-changers for the industry as a whole and particularly for businesses.

While there are more to come, these key programs are promoted throughout this issue of APJ, so I am not going to go into any great detail about them here other than to briefly highlight them and offer an overview of why and how they came about so that you can appreciate their purpose.

As you will see from what we have outlined in the APAN Story in this issue, our whole objective as an organisation and the reason for existing is to facilitate pathways for progress for the industry. We are not into our own importance. APAN is about providing solutions. We are the innovators behind the scene who listen to your concerns, research and investigate options, look at regulatory activities and then identify the most innovative structures to help the industry move forward. That is our purpose and we are experts at it. It is through leadership in the area of governance that we are able to serve you best.

Apart from two new strategic alliance partners that we will be presenting to you in the next issue of APJ I would like to encourage you to carefully consider and determine which projects will provide you with the most benefit. In brief these are:

1. CORPORATE SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY – CAUSE RELATED MARKETING – APAN/THINK PINK FOUNDATION - Skin and Wellness Month.

For the whole month of October we are launching through an Australia-wide marketing and promotional campaign SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH. The public will be invited to visit registered clinics and salons who will be providing them

with amazing treatments and products, while a percentage of proceeds will go towards the Think Pink Foundation in support of breast cancer patients.

I urge both members and non-mebers to seriously consider embarking on this cause-related marketing and fundraising program. I promise you it will be a lot of fun and it will also provide you with an incredible opportunity to leverage off a nation-wide campaign, grow your client base and your business, while supporting a wonderful charity that is providing amazing support for women with breast cancer.

There will also be rewards and prizes and extra publicity for clinics or salons who raise the most funds. We are also finalising an agreement with a celebrity who has agreed to be our spokesperson – more about that in the next issue of APJ. As an industry that cares for the individual and the community here is a great opportunity to give something back. Join us through this corporate social responsibility program and be part of it, while also personally benefiting your business.

2. NEW INDUSTRY SPECIALIST TRADEMARK – APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER TM (ARAP) If you consider yourself a specialist in skin and age management, whether you come from a beauty therapy background, dermal therapies or cosmetic nursing, you now can apply for a new industry classification – APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER. To register for this classification you will need to provide evidence of your qualifications and you will need to commit to your on-going professional development. The advantage of being identified through this registration is that it will allow us to pursue formal recognition through a new professional category with the Government and with Regulatory bodies and secure better rights for you to perform certain procedures without the need for excessive regulations. This classification will differentiate you from traditional beauty therapy practices and identify you as a specialist of skin and age management.

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Decision is the spark that IGNITES ACTION. Until a decision is made nothing happens.

Wilfred A. Peterson

3.QUALITY STANDARDS ACCREDITATION FOR CLINICS APAN/QIP Specialised Health Services Accreditation Program The time has come for businesses who believe they deliver best practice services as a key element of their competitive advantage to gain external, formal recognition through an independent national Accreditation organisation.

Quality Innovation Performance (QIP) is considered a leading standards accrediting body who assesses to international ISO 9001 standards as well as to Australian Standards. QIP currently accredits hospitals and medical clinics and we are delighted they have identified a set of standards for the aesthetic clinic.

Both these programs will work hand-in-hand to provide a new level of excellence and ensure best practice for our industry. This accreditation should provide a powerful marketing tool to engage consumers, offering them a guaranteed environment of high standards of care and safety.

CONFERENCE PROGRAMS Once again this year we are featuring three Conference programs (see back cover for further details on dates). Keep these in your diary: Brisbane 22nd May, Sydney 26th June and 23rd October for Perth. I do understand there will be many industry events on offer for you to attend throughout the year – trade shows and exhibitions, business coaches training programs, supplier-based educational programs as well as medical conferences. As I attend many of them each year I can confidently say that the APAN Aesthetic Conferences provide you with excellent value for money.

Our educational program is quite unique and different. It features a valuable bird's eye view of what is happening across many platforms within the industry with highlights of key areas you need to become aware of and to leverage off them. You will gain the most up-to-date industry-specific information on new trends, some even before they appear.

This industry intelligence will help you evaluate our best and most profitable options.

APAN is an independent professional body. Our commitment is strictly to help and serve you to solve your problems,

improve your current position and secure a better future through professional advice that is unbiased and accurate.

So if you are a member, and even if you are not, please prioritise to attend at least one of these events as they will provide you with a wealth of information.

AUSTRALIAN TAX OFFICE On Monday 29th February we met with representatives of the Australian Taxation Office, who gave us updates on the activities and audits of the Hair and Beauty industry over the past 12 months. Their assessment was based on their own industry benchmark on which they assess income and expenses based on their understanding of the activities performed with this industry.

It became apparent to them that there is a huge difference between a hairdresser, nail technician or beauty therapist who performs standards treatments, and professionals who specialise in corrective skin treatments and body treatments in terms of their operating costs. While the latter can be benchmarked on an averaged cost of say $2-$4 per treatment, skin and age management practitioners who also work with advanced technologies may incur operational costs per client of up to $50 as an average. At this meeting we requested that this category should secure its own Tax Code. As this is a Federal Government decision it is something that we have already started negotiations at that level. Here is one example where the new classification ARAP can start benefiting you.

REGULATIONS FOR IPL AND LASER The response to the Regulatory Impact Statement that was send out for public comment on the proposed regulations for IPL and Laser was quite substantial with over 265 responses.

Currently, these documents are being analysed and assessed for further consideration. However, going on an updated ARPANSA report presented at the Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference in November last year by senior regulator Dr Javorniczky the indications are that full regulations have gained strong industry support. I will keep you informed on progress as further news arrives.

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I do hope you choose to engage with us through some of the wonderful programs we have in line for you. As Andrew Carnegie said “teamwork is the ability to work together towards a common vision. It's the fuel that allows common people to obtain uncommon and extraordinary results.”

My best wishes to you all for a wonderful year and I look forward to speaking with many of you soon.

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businessintelligence

EMOTIONAL BRANDING and CAUSE-RELATED MARKETING New Paradigms for Connecting People to you and your Brand

by Tina Viney

When you first started out in this industry, more than likely your intention was to embrace a profession that allowed you to use your care for other people by providing treatments and services that help them look and feel better, while improving their self-esteem and quality of life.

From there you possibly moved on to establish your own business and provide these services through your own style or culture and more than likely those choices were influenced by your own values and what you perceived as being important to you and to the clients with whom you interact with. However, in time the elements that identify you and differentiate you from other clinics or salons can also be more specifically defined as your BRAND. It is amazing, but many within our industry do not recognise that they are a brand. While the concept of branding can be a confusing topic that many seasoned marketers don't even clearly understand, it nevertheless is a very important one. Why? If you're confused by your brand, your clients will be confused, too. The last thing you want to do is waste time and money by developing a weak brand. Gaining an understanding of the elements that make up your branding and articulating these

clearly will allow you to improve your competitive advantage.

In brief here is a definition of what is a brand and the key elements that define it:

WHAT IS A BRAND? Your brand in essence is the promise you make to your clients and what they can expect from you that makes you different and better than anyone else. In other words, what will your client get when they purchase a product or service under your brand umbrella? Whatever that may be, the brand promise incorporates more than just those tangible products and services.

It also includes the feelings that consumers get when they use your products and services.

It is important to understand also that brands are built by consumers, not companies. Ultimately, it's the way consumers perceive a brand that defines it. It doesn't matter what you think your brand promises. The only thing that matters is how your clients perceive your brand. You therefore need to understand consumer perceptions and align your products and services to be accurately reflected in your brand, or your brand is doomed to limited growth potential.

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Based on your brand promise, consumers develop expectations

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for your brand. When they pull their hard-earnt money out of their pocket and purchase your products or services they assume their expectations for your brand will be met. If your brand doesn't meet consumer expectations in every interaction, consumers will become confused by your brand and turn away from it in search of another brand that does meet their expectations in every interaction. This is why it is important to establish uniform standards through policies and procedures that can ensure these standards are consistent.

The bottom-line, a brand should provide clear, reliable and believable value to both your clients and your employees that are delivering the products and services. However, brands aren't built overnight. They require planning and a clear definition.

YOUR VALUES As we said above your brand is built on both tangible – clearly defined promises – as well as – intangible elements that evoke emotions. One way that you can strengthen your brand’s identity is through credibility by association.

In other words through cause-related marketing and emotional marketing. By aligning with other organisations that reflect your values you are demonstrating and reinforcing what those values are. If these reflected your clients and potential clients' values they are more likely to choose you and stay loyal to you for the long haul.

AN EXAMPLE

when the consumer experiences a strong and lasting attachment to the brand comparable to a feeling of bonding, companionship or love. Examples of emotional branding could be the good feeling one feels for say the Dick Smith products because of how they relate to his philosophy, or a nostalgic feeling evoked by a designer such as Chanel and her iconic image of the independent chic woman. By wearing Chanel 5 for example, the wearer emotionally resurrects and relives those emotions or ideals.

In our industry we can also use this tool in various ways. For example, by introducing a glamorous product or treatment that makes our client feel spoilt, or special, reinforcing their sense of femininity, and even the feeling of experiencing a very special indulgence. On the other hand you may choose products or treatments with a strong focus on environmental consciousness, safety, purity and health. Clients that espouse to such values would gladly appreciate and favour these products or services over other brands.

By researching what you clients value the most and what is important to them will allow you to offer them products and services that best relate to their values, needs and wants.

Successful branding is therefore centred around enabling customers to value what you offer on a personal level, and in that way distinguish it among a sea of competitors. The success of all brands is therefore much more than just the logo, it goes much deeper to its ability to form an emotional connection with its customers or clients.

"You have to have a love affair with the consumer – flirt with them, provide that titillating buzz.

When that flirtatious relationship becomes a deep relationship, then you have a major brand."

As you would have seen in my report APAN is launching a strategic alliance partnership through a co-branding initiative with the Think Pink Foundation. What we are trying to achieve as part of our corporate social responsibility is to support a worthwhile cause that is close to many women's heart – breast cancer. Statistics confirm that one in eight women in Australia are touched by this condition, so this is a common concern that many women can relate to personally or through someone close to them that may be afflicted by breast cancer.

While you can read all about how you can get involved with this fundraising initiative on pages 18,19 and 23, in this article I want to explain how the underlying benefits to you as a business are supported through cause-related marketing and emotional marketing. So let's take a closer look at how these two concepts are defined and what research is saying about them. More importantly, how you can use these valuable tools to further enhance your business as a purpose-driven brand that others will want to connect with, support and stay loyal to.

WHAT IS EMOTIONAL BRANDING? Emotional branding is a term used within marketing communications that refers to the practice of building brands that appeal directly to a consumer's emotional state, needs and aspirations. Emotional branding is successful when it triggers an emotional response in the consumer, that is, a desire for the advertised brand that touches the heart of the consumer and not just their logic. Emotional brands have a significant impact

Emotional branding clearly differentiates companies from their competitors and helps to create deep intrinsic relationships between brands and consumers. Relationships with an emotional dimension are more likely to resist the temptation to defect than comparatively superficial price or convenience-based ones.

Only an insight-based, personalised marketing approach can form a strong enough bond with a brand that evokes a personal, emotional reaction in customers. And, brand marketing through social networks makes it all the more important that brands strive to build connections with their clients or customers on a personal level. The more you know about the habits, needs, wants and values of your clients the easier it is to establish connections that will be long-lasting and important to them.

Creating an emotional bond with your clients requires more than good marketing – a company engaged in emotional branding puts the needs of its clients ahead of the product it's selling. This is why in a service-oriented industry, pushing product just for the sake of reaching a sales target, doesn't work. However, recommending a product based on solving a problem and providing a solutions will not only get you the sale, but also build trust that will contribute to long-term loyalty.

Even in the world of technology, the principle of emotional marketing works. For example Apple almost went under in the 1990s, but an amazing brand rejuvenation propelled it to the 21st

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century to a super-brand status. Wired.com reported Gobe as saying that Apple has succeeded in giving its product a humanised touch in an ever-evolving technical world.

Responding to consumer anxiety about technology’s evolutionary speed, Apple managed to make its customers feel part of its brand by making it clear they understood their needs.

Several new studies confirm that when people form an emotional attachment to a brand the strength of that bond is not dissimilar to an attachment to another person. It becomes hard for that person to separate themselves from one brand and begin a new relationship with another. Emotional branding can only be achieved by putting what customers deem most important ahead of everything else. If you can master the skill of establishing a relationship with your clients at this level, you can count them in for the long haul!

While the concept of emotion in branding became revolutionised with Sigmund Freud's popularising of the "unconscious mind" back in 1912, I believe that when it comes to our industry much of the need has to do with the fact that women are givers, and in particular, emotional givers, and they love and value to find a professional environment that can give back to them. I also believe that in a world of high technology human touch and human interaction is becoming more and more a rarity. Therefore finding ways to emotional connect with our clients is progressively becoming a much needed and appreciated experience for them.

Today's most successful companies are said to have built relationships with consumers by engaging them in a personal dialogue that responds to their needs. Marketers who've broken through the clutter have done so by connecting with consumers, thereby, they have created strong emotional bonds through their brands. Author Barbara Green, who has written several books on relationships states, "You have to have a love affair with the consumer – flirt with them, provide that titillating buzz. When that flirtatious relationship becomes a deep relationship, then you have a major brand."

Emotional branding creates a personality for the brand. In an article published in Brandweek – original source Emotional Branding by Marc Gobe, the difference between identity and a personality is stated: “Identity is recognition. Personality is about character and charisma! Brand identities express a point of difference in the competitive landscape – but that's just the first step. Brand personalities are special: They evoke an emotional response."

When considering emotional branding and identifying our clients' needs studies confirm that they fall in eight key categories. These are: 1.

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Emotional security Reassurance of worth Ego-gratification Creative outlets Love objects Sense of power Sense of roots Immortality

These needs, which are subconsciously emotion-based, serve as a foundation for emotional branding and allow marketers to create a self-fulfilling prophecy when it comes to consumer needs. People want to fulfil these needs, and advertisers promote the need to fulfil these needs in a perpetual cycle.

So how does emotional marketing differ from cause-related marketing? While both connect with consumers on a conscious and subconscious emotional level, cause-related marketing offers a brand further leverage through the credibility by association with a worthwhile and meaningful cause. Let's take a closer look at this.

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CAUSE-RELATED MARKETING Cause related marketing is usually associated with fund-raising campaigns where a portion of sales or proceeds are donated to a worthwhile cause, for example, the Think Pink Foundation for the support of breast-cancer patients.

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These campaigns are an incredibly successful model of corporate partnership and can be instrumental in enhancing your brand, stimulating sales and market share. It also publicly demonstrates your organisation's commitment to helping reduce the impact of cancer in the Australian community.

APAN has selected to support the Think Pink Foundation by establishing an co-branded initiative for its community of practice within the aesthetics industry and their businesses that will ultimately benefit them through cause-related marketing.

Studies confirm that businesses that are associated with a cause are increasingly influencing consumers’ purchasing decisions in the following way:

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55% of men and 75% of women prefer to purchase a brand that supports a charity 76% of consumers are in favour of supporting organisations that provide research or support, such as cancer 24% of Australians have indeed switched brands in the past year in favour of brands that support a cause or charity.

If you choose to join, for example, with the APAN/Think Pink cause-related marketing campaign, you will in essence be aligning your products, services and your business's brand with this initiative. Through the benefit of a corporate national marketing campaign your business can benefit that enhanced brand status, recognition and amazing exposure.

While this is a nation-wide initiative, as a business you can establish your own promotional campaign that is as individual as

you and will still give you a competitive advantage over other clinics or salons that are also participating in this initiative.

However, the advantage of connecting with a huge project such as this is that you will benefit from the promotional leverage without having to do all of the broader promotional activity at your cost and time.

CONCLUSION There is no doubt that emotional marketing and cause-related marketing are the new paradigms that are helping propel businesses towards better growth and continued consumer loyalty. In a world of high technology and constant distractions from human contact, learning how to connect emotionally with other human beings is becoming increasingly important.

REFERENCES: ! Westen, Drew (1999).The Scientific Status of Unconscious Processes: Is Freud Really Dead? Journal of the American Psychoanalytic Association 47 (4): 1061–1106. doi:10.1177/000306519904700404. ! Bernays, Edward L. Public Relations. Norman: University of Oklahoma, 1952. Print. ! Packard, Vance. The Hidden Persuaders. New York: D. McKay, 1957. Print. ! Making the Emotional Connection.(2001) Brandweek.

General OneFile. ! Green, Barbara.(2003) Product is no longer enough; smart marketers know the way to the wallet is through the heart.

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BLOGGING – What, Why and How to Blog

Proof read and edit content – Read and get a third person to proof read your blog over to be sure it has no typos and that is flows well. I like to do my blogs kind of like the way I talk (yes that was really bad, grammatically, but it's how I talk). The rule is really there is no rule – just be you, and always be authentic – people will know when you're not because it just won't flow right. As much as you can, make your content concise without too many twists and turns. I like to use the KISS principle (K-keep I-it S-super S-simple).

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Great pics – Pictures and photos add a certain attraction to your blog. They also add to the joy of reading when they're related to your blog.

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Be Regular – always have a follow through plan when you write so that people will be interested in following your blog and so they know there's going to be something worthwhile to read the 'next bit' about.

Businesses cannot secure on-going growth without mastering skills in the social media space. One valuable tool is through well-crafted blogs. However, there is a real skill on how to craft these so that they flow well, are easy to read and create an excitement from your readers to want to continue to hear more from you.

We are thrilled that Trish has accepted to be APAN's Blog Guru. Here she shares some simple to follow advice on how you can establish positive and successful business communication that lead to business growth through the use of blogs.

I am asked on a daily basis to explain what blogging is all about, why we do it and how it's done. So I thought I'd share this with you.

Well laid out design – Have an attractive easy to read style/design. The last thing you want is a difficult to read blog.

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By Trish Hammond

If you are looking for expert advice you cannot go past Trish Hammond.

In November 2015 Trish's company, Plastic Surgery Hub, won the Best Aesthetics Blogger Award, presented to her at the My Face My Body international aesthetics awards. Trish was competing with several other strong companies, but was the winner. Our congratulations to Trish and her team. We believe they deserved to win as their skills and expertise are of the highest professional standard.

Interesting and compelling title – This is your first chance to get someone interested. It's the 'win' or 'lose'.

The title should connect with your reader and be compelling enough to get them to read your blog.

Build trust – This is how you get readers and followers. When people find your writing is honest, they believe what you have to say, and that it's something worth reading.

Blogging is something fun to do especially when others are enjoying your blog and you know that when they keep reading your work, and keep visiting your blog site, not to mention sharing your blogs on their pages. To top it all off, blogging increases your credibility, your social media presence and your website's bounce rate.

Most important thing – keep blogging and enjoy it!

Let's go to the basics first, what is blogging? It comes from the word "web log". Blogging is in simple terms – publishing content online to bring about interaction.

HISTORY OF BLOGGING Blogging started in the 1990s through links.net where Justin Hall shared his deep thoughts and favourite links with everyone over the internet. As more people enjoyed using personal websites in sharing their ideas to the world online, the term "weblog" was coined which later on become famously called "blog".

WHY BLOG? There's so many good reasons why you should blog. Here's just a few: ! helps in building your network ! helps to increase your business ! helps you to stay in touch with your 'tribe'

If you would like to speak to Trish about your blogging needs please contact her on 0429 264 811 or Email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au

PLASTIC SURGERY HUB ALSO PROVIDE ADDITIONAL SERVICES INCLUDING:

! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Press Releases Social Media Setup and/or Management Blog Submissions Vlogs (video blogs) Article Submission / Article Writing Directory Submissions Website Optimisation (individualised and specific) Website Creation for you to edit and update.

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MHM

Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)

An accredited qualification in Clinical Aesthetics can equip those with a passion for skin and the aesthetics industry with a comprehensive understanding of health science and clinical management.

Career opportunities are limitless; from treatment and product development, medispa & clinic management, to niche areas within the medical sector, including oncology, paediatrics and burns units.

The Australasian College of Health and Wellness believes in the future and growth of the aesthetics field. Now more than ever the opportunity exists to truly create your ultimate career in an everexpanding industry.

Australasian College of Health and Wellness www.tachw.edu.au • CALL NOW 02 8587 8888 • enquiries@tac.edu.au Building 1, 87 Bay Street Cnr Wentworth Park Road, GLEBE 2037

coverstory

The Aesthetics industry gains a New Formal Classification

APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS TM PRACTITIONER (ARAP)

by Tina Viney As a result of the extensive interaction with the industry over the past two years APAN identified a strong and growing unrest with the issue of professional identity within the industry. The new emerging skin and age management specialist needed a formal identity that separated them from the broader definition of Beauty Therapist. This led to the launch of the new classification – APAN Registered Aesthetics PractitionerTM (ARAP), which is also protected for its use through a registered trademark.

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The on-going challenges that we face with new advances entering the industry are contributing to uncertainty as Government and Regulatory bodies attempt to identify where to position restrictions when it comes to safe practices and who can perform them as they are limited by how qualifications reflect

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New proposed regulations for IPL and Laser Updates in Health Regulations Updates in the Skin Penetration licensing Act Insurance companies concerns about risk management N e w a d v a n c e d technologies and procedures Australian Taxation Officer bases their benchmark on income and expenses under Hair and Beauty for all within our industry. This means that your expenses are estimated in the same category as nail technicians, hair dressing and basic beauty services.

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There are many activities and concerns that are changing and shaping the industry: These include:

APAN

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these practices. If there are no qualifications they establish their own rules. This is not just for the practice of IPL and Laser, it is also for dermal needling. What needle depth should nonmedical practitioners be allowed to perform, etc? Other procedures that are raising concerns include the introduction of the Vampire Facial (PRP). Who should be allowed to deliver this procedure? Currently there are alarming concerns that nonaccredited practitioners are performing them and this is a real problem. These and on-going new technologies that require pain management and therefore the use of anaesthetics are posing questions and pointing to the need for the industry itself to take the responsibility to better define itself. If we don't there will be consequences.

For example insurance companies are raising their premiums as they identify the risks with procedures that have no formal qualifications up against them. We know this because they are reaching out to us to help them identify correct qualifications and training.

WHO IS AT FAULT? Let me say from the outset that no-one is to blame for this. This is simply a symptom of technology advancing faster than formal education and this is not just effecting our industry – it is a global phenomenon with other industries as well.

However, without correct industry initiatives to define and establish standards, regulators will most likely step in and become highly restrictive as to who can practise these procedures, with many being restricted to "doctors only" as we are seeing in many other countries.

GOVERNMENT-DRIVEN Examining the best possible way to protect the industry from a governance point of view, it became very clear to APAN that the industry needed a clearer certified identity. However, the key driving force for this decision came from the Government itself, as various Government Departments stressed to us the importance for the industry itself to look at a self-regulatory model through its own representative body. They therefore encouraged us to provide them with a more comprehensive, standards-based industry identity for their consideration other than Beauty Therapist that more accurately defines their areas of speciality.

At this present time Dermal Therapist, Aesthetics or Skin Therapist are not formal classifications as far as the Government is concerned so we cannot request procedures to be allowed by these practitioners. We had to provide a solution.

Through various stakeholder consultations and industry support APAN is pleased to announce that as of February 2016 the industry has a new Classification for which we have secured a trademark – APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER TM. (ARAP)

INDUSTRY SELF-REGULATION As we have already stated, APAN as an industry standards body has the option to self-regulate through clearly defined standards.

What we cannot do is enforce those standards. However, we can define, establish and invite industry to embrace them, as well as the Government to recognise them. By industry choosing to support and embrace these standards we then have a strong vehicle to negotiate on their behalf with the Government bodies.

HOW DO YOU BECOME AN APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER TM? In order to become a APAN Registered Aesthetics PractitionerTM (ARAP) you will need to provide evidence of your qualifications for the practices that you are performing. If you are performing Laser or IPL treatment you will need to provide evidence that you have a recognised qualification to perform those treatments. If there are no government-approved qualifications available for the modalities that you may be currently performing you will need to provide evidence of unaccredited Statements of Completion that you have received appropriate training in performing those tasks.

You will also need to sign a Code of Ethics to which you will be required to uphold. This must be signed and a copy returned to APAN as evidence.

As part of this Registration you will be required to commit to ongoing education to ensure your currency. On renewal of your registration you will be required to provide evidence of this for which you will be issued CEPs – (Continued Education Points).

WHO SHOULD APPLY? If you are a dermal therapist, nurse, or skin therapist who specialises in skin and age management procedures you are invited to apply for registration through ARAP. You can download an Application Form from the APAN website.

WHAT IF YOU ARE A TRAINING PROVIDER? Training providers who would like their courses to be promoted through the APAN Registered Aesthetics PractitionerTM CEP program can submit requests for the courses to be viewed by the APAN Quality Assurance Board for Consideration. Please download an Application Form from the APAN website, complete and return to APAN.

WHAT IS APAN'S AIMS AND PURPOSE FOR INTRODUCING THIS CLASSIFICATION? APAN's aim is to provide all practitioners who specialise in skin and age management with a clear industry identity that will allow them formal representation as being a specialised group of practitioners independent of basic beauty and basic beauty therapy services. This classification will be credible as APAN will require to view credentials and qualifications in order to Register a practitioner under this classification.

Ultimately this classification will make way for an industry Code of Practice to be formally drafted and implemented and this will eventually lead to the Aesthetics industry having its own Registration Board similar to other professions such as nurses.

AN INVITATION TO JOIN AND BE RECOGNISED If you believe you fall into this category and would like us to formally recognise you please join us. If you require further information phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 or complete the online ARAP Application Process from the APAN website www.apanetwork.com.

APAN is making the way for a stronger industry identity, but it's up to the industry to take up the challenge and allow us to formally represent it. The future of the Aesthetics Industry is ultimately in your hands through the choices you make. Please help us to help you.

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cause-relatedmarketing

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‘It's our way of Giving Back’

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Think Pink-APAN SKIN and Wellness Month 1-31st October 2016 As part of their corporate social responsibility APAN has identified an opportunity in the market to establish a causerelated marketing campaign aligning with APAN's core values Sustainability, Guidance, Innovation and Integrity.

After thorough research the charity of choice that APAN has selected is the THINK PINK FOUNDATION – a philanthropic charity that focuses on providing support and resources for breast-cancer individuals.

Statistics confirm that one in eight women will experience breast cancer in Australia and this can be very devastating to the patient and their family. Think Pink provides much needed support and

care direct to the patient and their families by helping them on their journey.

The strategy to co-brand APAN with Think Pink will benefit both organisations in the following way.

THE OPPORTUNITY The fundraising initiative will be launched through a huge marketing and PR campaign Australia-wide. It will be named the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH – a month when consumers will be directed to registered clinics and salons to experience special treatments and services and also be introduced to amazing products to improve skin health and

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wellbeing. This campaign will not run just for one day, but for the whole month of October 2016.

Salon and clinics will be invited to donate a percentage of proceeds for the month of October to the Think Pink Foundation.

APAN will also be donating a percentage of the revenue raised from the Application Kit to the charity.

INVITATION TO PARTICIPATE Clinics and salons that provide services for skin and wellness are invited to register their expression of interest on the APAN website. The Expression of Interest Form will outline the terms and conditions for participation. If the applicants are happy to comply with the guidelines they then will be sent an Application Form to complete. Once this is completed they will be issued with the APAN/THINK PINK Skin and Wellness Project Kit that will contain: ! A special Decal to display in the window for consumers to identify them ! Instructions on the process ! They will also be issued with templates and banners that they can use in their own social media platforms, website, newsletters, etc. Logos and wording will be provided to ensure a uniform and professional message across the board, and to ensure that no legal guidelines are breached as set out by the Think Pink Foundation. ! Sufficient brochures to hand out to every client. These will include information on Think Pink Foundation, APAN and about the SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH. The brochure will also include space for the participating business to include their contact details.

Participating clinics and salons will be recommended to encourage their clients to hand these out to their family and friends and encourage them to also attend the business and take advantage of any promotional services and products that you will be featuring during the month of October. ! All participating salons and clinics details will be featured on the APAN Urban Aesthetic Culture website where consumers will also be directed from a national campaign to find a salon near them. Full contact details and website links will also direct new clients to you.

WHO CAN APPLY TO PARTICIPATE

! ! ! ! !

This program is offered to the aesthetic skin professional and beauty salon owner who is focussed on skin and age management treatment through qualified individuals.

Supplier and distribution companies that would like to provide promotional incentives to the clinics and salons and who would also like to donate directly.

Training schools who have a clinic for students to gain supervised work experience.

Healthcare providers Cosmetic medical clinics

WHAT ARE THE BENEFIT TO THE BUSINESS OWNERS WHO PARTICIPATE? The APAN/THINK PINK Skin and Wellness Month will provide a platform for individual Aesthetic practitioner/business owner and the aesthetic industry to participate in a corporate socially responsible (CSR) program through a cause-related

marketing campaign without high-end costs to them. The project offers an opportunity to enhance their brand reputation with minimal marketing management, stimulate new clients and business growth through product and service sales, while expanding their own brand awareness to develop a sustainable future. Other than the financial benefits, it also provides a great opportunity to motivate staff and create a positive and dynamic work environment for improved productivity and fun.

FURTHER INFORMATION ON THINK PINK FOUNDATION In September 2006, Think Pink became an independent Charitable Foundation with full Australian Tax Office (ATO) endorsed Deductible Gift Recipient (DGR) status.

Within a short time the Foundation raised sufficient funds to establish its own unique state-of-the-art, independent and nonclinical wellness facility called The Living Centre. The Centre was officially opened by The Minister of Health for Victoria, The Hon Daniel Andrews MP, on 9th September, 2010.

Since that time The Living Centre has proudly supported hundreds of breast-cancer patients and their families through its unique and innovative program of activities and services. The Living Centre provides professional and caring holistic support completely free of charge to patients, their families and carers at any stage of their journey with breast cancer.

Moving forward, the Think Pink Foundation is committed to having a Living Centre facility established and operational in every capital city within Australia in the next five years.

The objective of the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH is to help raise funds for establishing The Living Centre in every State so that patients and their families can receive real care and support through their journey with breast cancer.

For further information on Think Pink visit http://www.thinkpink.org.au

ADDITIONAL REWARD FOR YOU As an activity participant in the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH you will receive the opportunity to be recognised. The finalist in each State that has raised the most money will be featured on the APAN website as well as the APAN Urban Culture website and their story will be presented to a local paper or magazine for publishing.

GAIN NATIONAL RECOGNITION Furthermore, the overall winner will receive a $5000 Travel and Accommodation package and their story will be featured in APJ journal and will also be presented to other business-to-business publications not just in our industry, but also other business magazines. The story will also be presented through a PR agency to a large consumer magazine for additional publicity.

Join us as we embark on an amazing cause-related marketing adventure and also don't miss out on all the fun.

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If you want to learn more about the benefits of such a program please see ad on page 23.

To access an Expression of Interest Form for the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH visit www.apanetwork.com or phone APAN on 07 5593 0360.

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productperformers

The Power of Good Relationships for Wellbeing and Business Success

By Tina Viney In our fast-paced world where information is reaching us at an ever-increasing rate, where logical systems and objective measurements are the recommended tools to measure performance, we would be excused in neglecting the role of human understanding as an equally important driver in better relationships, as well as greater success in business.

However, more and more researchers are highlighting the importance of meaningful connections and the role of emotional intelligence in helping, not only our quality of life, but also improving our business performance.

In this article we examine what is Emotional Intelligence, what science is saying about it and how you can use this as a valuable tool to select the best staff and maintain a positive and productive momentum in the workplace that will enhance productivity and profits.

We are constantly told to lean into work, to push harder and achieve more. We're given the impression that these are the things that we need to go after in order to have a good life.

Pictures of entire lives, of the choices that people make and how those choices work out for them, those pictures are sometimes almost impossible to get. Most of what we know about human life we know from asking people to remember the past, and as we know, hindsight is anything but 20/20. We forget vast amounts of what happens to us in life, and sometimes memory is downright creative.

But what if we could watch entire lives as they unfold through time? What if we could study people from the time that they were teenagers all the way into old age to see what really keeps people happy and healthy?

RESEARCH ON HEALTH AND HAPPINESS A recent lecture presented by psychiatrist Dr Robert Walding confirmed that such a study had been conducted. The Harvard Study of Adult Development is considered the longest and most comprehensive study of adult life that's ever been done. For 75 years they tracked the lives of 724 men, year after year, asking about their work, their home lives, their health, and of course asking all along the way without knowing how their life stories were going to turn out. The study confirmed the importance of quality relationships where love and understanding are characteristic qualities that contribute to good health, longevity and success.

"We've learnt two big lessons about relationships," Dr Walding said. "The first is that social connections are really good for us, and that loneliness kills. It turns out that people who are more socially connected to family, to friends, to community, are happier, they're physically healthier, and they live longer than people who are less well connected.

"And the second big lesson that we learnt about relationships and our health is that good relationships don't just protect our bodies, they protect our brains. And the people in relationships

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where they feel they really can't count on the other one, those are the people who experience earlier memory decline.

"So the message is that close relationships are good for our health and wellbeing. This is wisdom that's as old as the hills.

Why is this so hard to get and so easy to ignore? Well, we're human. What we'd really like is a quick fix, something we can get that'll make our lives good and keep them that way.

Relationships are messy and they're complicated and the hard work of tending to family and friends, it's not sexy or glamorous.

It's also lifelong. It never ends. The people in our 75-year study who were the happiest in retirement were the people who had actively worked to replace workmates with new playmates. Just like the millennials in that recent survey, many of our men when they were starting out as young adults really believed that fame and wealth and high achievement were what they needed to go after to have a good life. But over and over, over these 75 years, our study has shown that the people who fared the best were the people who leaned into relationships, with family, with friends and with community.�

RELATIONSHIPS AT WORK What about our relationships at work? There is no doubt that we can take some lessons from this research and bring it also into the workplace as there is no doubt that caring genuinely for individuals, you interact with will give them a greater sense of appreciation and this may affect their performance and their loyalty to their workplace. When it comes to workplace relations the relatively new science of Emotional Intelligence (EI) as a valuable tool offers us great insight. So what is Emotional Intelligence?

Emotional intelligence is the ability of individuals to recognise their own and other people's emotions, to discriminate between different feelings and label them appropriately, and to use emotional information to guide thinking and behaviour.

It all started in 1995 with the book by the title Emotional Intelligence written by the author, psychologist and science journalist Daniel Goleman, who first used the term and the beginning when this concept gained prominence. Since then further studies have been conducted and now EI is recognised as an important concept that contributes to improved productivity in the workplace and greater success in business.

Today, the principles of EI are being introduced even in large corporations to help better understand their consumers, as well as create a more productive and successful workplace. While going through this concern is quite an extensive study, for the purpose of this article I will attempt to provide a simplified version on how it can be used for the benefit of our industry.

On a close look at EI Goleman's own model may now be considered a mixed model that combines what have subsequently been modelled separately as ability EI and trait EI. Goleman defined EI as the array of skills and characteristics that drive leadership performance. On the other hand, the trait model was developed by Konstantin Vasily Petrides in 2001.

Rather than skills, Petrides points out that traits encompass behavioural dispositions and self-perceived abilities that are measured through self-report". The ability model was then further developed by Peter Salovey and John Mayer in 2004 and focuses on the individual's ability to process emotional information and use it to navigate the social environment.

So why is EI important to business? Studies have shown that people with high EI have greater mental health, exemplary job performance, and more potent leadership skills. For example, Goleman's research in his book, Working with Emotional Intelligence, indicated that EI accounted for 67% of the abilities deemed necessary for superior performance in leaders, and mattered twice as much as technical expertise or IQ. Other research has found that the effect of EI on leadership and managerial performance is non-significant when ability and personality are accounted for, and that general intelligence correlates very closely with leadership. Markers of EI and methods of developing it have become more widely coveted in the past few decades. In addition, studies have begun to provide evidence to help characterise the neural mechanisms of emotional intelligence. So in practical terms, what does that mean?

EMOTIONAL INTELLIGENCE SIMPLIFIED When we employ someone we usually look at their skill sets and their abilities to perform the tasks that we would like them to deliver in the workplace. We logically analyse what they are technically able to perform. However, how well they will perform will also be determined by how well they also emotionally connect to you as an employer and whether the values and objectives of the tasks, products and systems they will be using resonate with them also emotionally. Are they convinced and do they believe and trust that what they are delivering is credible and important? How flexible will they be in transitioning to your way of thinking?

Are they adaptable to change and how well can they handle challenges with individuals when they arise?

According to emotional intelligence, success is strongly influenced by personal qualities such as perseverance, selfcontrol and skills in getting along with others. Much has been written about how to improve employees' EI, but hiring managers are likely to make better hiring decisions when they look for people who already possess high EI scores.

Becoming aware of the characteristics of an EI person can be very useful, particularly when you are hiring staff. This is because workers with high EI are better able to work in teams, adjust to change and be flexible. No matter how many qualifications a person has, if he or she doesn't have certain emotional qualities, he or she is unlikely to succeed. As the workplace continues to evolve, making room for new technologies and innovations, these qualities may become increasingly important.

THE FIVE CHARACTERISTICS OF EMOTIONAL INTELLIGENCE According to Daniel Goleman there are five characteristics of emotional intelligence. To hire candidates who will thrive in your workplace, look for those who have a handle on these five pillars.

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Self-awareness: If a person has a healthy sense of self-awareness, they will understand their own strengths and weaknesses, as well as how their actions affect others. A person who is self-aware is usually better able to handle and learn from constructive criticism than one who is not.

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possibly challenging situations.

For example, they are more likely to identify if a client is uncomfortable with what they are presenting to them. Instead of pushing through on a "sales proposal" they will intuitively sense if the client is becoming uncomfortable with what they are presenting. This could be that the client is running out of time and needs to leave, or she may be fearful that what will be present is unafordable to them. By picking up on their body language an EI person will pause and request feedback from the client and not be intimidated by their discomfort. By identifying the concern they can adjust their approach to a more favourable one and retain the respect of the client and secure a positive communication outcome.

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Self-regulation: A person with a high EI can maturely reveal their emotions in a responsible way and exercise restraint when needed. Instead of squelching their feelings and then bursting out of control at a later time, they express their feelings with honesty, restraint and control.

Motivation: Emotionally intelligent people are self-motivated. They're not motivated simply by money or a title. They are usually resilient and optimistic. When they encounter a disappointment they deal with it honestly as they are driven by truth and not by ambition. They are able to reason about differences and keep things in correct perspective without becoming overly emotional and out of control.

Empathy: A person who has empathy has compassion and an understanding of human nature that allows them to accept and to connect with other people on an emotional level. The ability to empathise allows a person to provide great service and respond genuinely to others' concerns. As a result they are better equipped to problem-solve when a challenge arises out of the ordinary, without losing control of their emotions.

People skills: People who are emotionally intelligent are able to build rapport and trust quickly with others on their teams. They avoid power struggles and backstabbing.

They usually enjoy other people and have the respect of others around them.

If we take a closer look at these five traits we can identify something interesting. The individual who possesses these characteristics or traits is more flexible in dealing favourably with both other staff members and with their clients. They are able to do so because they have a healthy respect both for their logic and reasoning, as well as for their feelings and emotions.

They are also intuitive and are better able to navigate a potential difficult situation and work preventatively in mitigating

An EI person will intuitively pick up underlying uneasiness that could sabotage the successful outcome of their communication and change their approach. Someone without a high level of emotional intelligence would not pick up on any "undercurrents" and push through with the current approach, thus failing in their communication and possibly in a potential sale.

Just as it's important to seek new staff that have a high level of emotional intelligence, so it is also vital for managers and business leaders to operate in emotionally intelligent ways to meet the needs of today's workers.

For example, if you are picking up on any level of uneasiness in an employee, don't ignore this. Investigate what is concerning them and offer your support. Mitigate negative undercurrents through a positive and healthy emotional approach, offering your support and reassurance.

While the emotional needs of today's workforce may seem like a tall order for employers, they're worth your attention. Investing in a better understanding of emotional intelligence and how to develop and reward these qualities has assisted many businesses to remain more engaged with their staff in a positive way and has enabled them to better navigate around challenges and move forward favourably.

It is important to remember that just as knowledge is important to the success of a business, so too is understanding of the human condition, their emotional disposition and which characteristics contribute to the wellbeing of the individual and the success of a business.

The Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) offers coaching and support to individuals and businesses in various areas of regulatory and business compliance, as well as successful strategies in staff recruitment and staff management. If you believe you can benefit from these services please contact APAN, phone 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com with your phone number so that we can contact you with further information.

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Think Pink and APAN

SKIN and Wellness Month 1-31st October 2016

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Introducing SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH

A co-branded initiative between APAN and the THINK PINK FOUNDATION Join APAN, as together we launch a new nation-wide initiative that will reflect our Corporate Social Responsibility and give back to the one in eight women in Australia that suffer from breast cancer.

SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH will spotlight you and your business as a service provider with a caring objective.

Clinics, Salons and Suppliers are invited to register with the APAN/Think Pink SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH and become service providers and active participants with this fundraising initiative. Research confirms that consumers favour purchasing products and services from businesses that support a cause. By registering and participating in the APAN/Think Pink SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH you will be both a contributor and an ambassador of this amazing new fund-raising initiative.

POTENTIAL BENEFITS FOR YOU AND YOUR BUSINESS:

> > > >

Increase your visibility and attract new clients through a nation-wide publicity campaign Increase your sales figures Increase brand awareness of your business and services Create an exciting new motivation to improve staff performance

> > > >

Partner with participating suppliers for amazing promotions Leverage your competitive edge Benefit from a huge national corporate campaign without huge financial outlay or labour costs Celebrate life with your clients and their friends and family

Let's come together as a community of practice and GIVE BACK to a worthy cause. Gain greater visibility as a credible professional product and service provider. Be recognised as being an active participant of a corporate social responsibility initiative.

WHY THINK PINK FOUNDATION? Think Pink is recognised as one of the most hands-on supportive charities for Breast Cancer in Australia.

Renowned for their compassion and holistic care of breast cancer patients, providing tangible support through psychological, practical and financial assistance.

Join us and contribute to a worthwhile cause and enhance your reputation and profile by association through the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH. Your participation is important – you can make a difference.

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To access an Expression of Interest Application form visit www.apanetwork.com or phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 for further details.

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New Paradigms Shifts and the POWER OF INTERIOR DESIGN

by Tina Viney In recent years the study of neuropsychology and cognitive behaviour have uncovered new disciplines providing us with a better understanding on how we think, feel and how we are influenced in making decisions. These studies are now offering insight on how consumers engage with us and what influences their decisions.

Where does the concept of a relationship with a brand fit into one's mental activity? What are thoughts, emotions and feelings and how do they influence a consumer's decision about a product or service – about the brand in a meaningful way? What should one understand about such concepts and how they influence conscious and unconscious behaviour in relation to brands and brand messages? What can we learn from managers of brands and how they codify messages to reflect a common need and create an attraction for consumers to connect with the brand?

We work in a service-based industry where we interact with other human beings through caring procedures that help improve their appearance, self-confidence and quality of life.

As competition grows and many other businesses provide the same services, what is our point of difference? Why should our clients remain loyal to us? How are we providing them with both results as well as a unique experience? Does this experience go beyond the tangible to also touch their hearts and emotions and create an appreciation and a long-lasting bond to our brand of service?

This new mindset is providing valuable consideration for any business owner who is planning long-term growth in an increasingly competitive business landscape. Often these considerations are directed to marketing and communication messages as they relate to the services and the products that are being offered. But what about the physical environment the interior design of the clinic or salon? What messages do they provide the consumer when they enter our premises?

Agatha Ozhylovski of O House of Design is a multi-awardwinning interior designer with an amazing history and an incredible portfolio and reputation for excellence in what she does. For close to 20 years Agatha has provided distinctive design service to the residential, boutique development and high-end commercial markets. Over the past decade she has delivered projects to the value of hundreds of millions of dollars. In addition, she has received local, national and international awards and these are resulted in a number of interest in alliances internationally. These include an affiliation with the Saatchi Art Gallery in London, interior design projects in Europe and working with architects abroad.

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Agatha's amazing innovative designs combine a wonderful fusion of quality traditional or historical concepts with a modern twist. The success of her creative transformations are as a result of her keen observation into her clients' specific needs. With these in mind, she applies meticulous detail in ensuring comfort and functionality. To this she also adds incredible yet understated elements of creative flair that define

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her individual and signature pieces, which finish off the design story.

In recent time she has gained great inspiration from the study of neuropsychology and this has also had an incredible influence into her work. In this article she shares with us how she came to get involved with the aesthetic industry and insight to a recent design project – Cosmos Cosmetic Surgery Clinic in North Adelaide, South Australia.

“My first exposure to the aesthetics industry would you believe, came as a result of picking up a copy of APJ Journal at a salon I was visiting. I was so intrigued as I started to gain a real understanding of the cosmetic and aesthetic clinical environment and how this profession was evolving. I quickly subscribed to APJ and continued to read the article with amazing interest. It was APJ that gave me insight into the emerging world of clinical aesthetics and the new level of results that are provided to consumers. Reading through the various articles I realised what an incredible industry this was and how it could benefit from a professional environment that could also artistically reflect messages that could further enhance the whole client/patient experience as well as positively contribute to the status and brand of the business enterprise.

“It was at that time that I also started to study neuropsychology and decided to introduce some of these concepts in my work as an interior designer. While emerged into these concepts I was approached by Dr Erfan Rahbar of Cosmos Cosmetic Surgery Clinic in Adelaide to design his clinic. It was in a historical building within a historical precinct. I quickly picked up that this medical practitioner belonged to a new breed of professionals not afraid to challenge outmoded ideas.

“Together we embarked on an adventure to design an internal space considering, not just interior design trends, but additionally exploring some intriguing new discoveries on social and behavioural science, neuroscience and psychology.”

WHY CONSIDER BEHAVIOURAL SCIENCE? By gaining an understanding of the new consumer mindset through these studies, Agatha and Dr Rahbar utilised this evidence-based approach to inject a new culture into the practice, while at the same time articulating a professional yet friendly, reassuring atmosphere that captures the enthusiasm of the staff and the vibrancy of the organisation.

Agatha says the first step was an in-depth conversation about cosmetic surgery and the highly competitive market in which it exists, with patients becoming increasingly aware of all the options and prices available to them online. This reinforces the imperative for practitioners to rethink their clinics, to make theirs the clinic of choice.

“Fortunately, Dr Rahbar has a vision for his practice and the industry, which led us into talking about leading- edge work in how design can influence behaviour,” says Agatha.

Environmental behaviour neuroscience combined with interior design is a new field of people-centred emotionally intelligent evidence-based design, combining scientific research and data with artistic imagination. Together, they offer a fresh approach to design that incorporates behavioural aspect of critical brain functions, including learning, perception, orientation, mood, focus and efficiency.

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HOW SCIENCE IS INFLUENCING DESIGN

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One of the leaders in this field is Rusty Gage, Adler Professor in the Laboratory of Genetics at the Salk Institute for Biological

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Studies. In a keynote address to the American Institute of Architects, Professor Gage stated: "As neuroscientists, we believe that the brain is the organ that controls behaviour, that genes control the blueprint, the design, and ultimately the structure of our brain. However, the environment can modulate the function of genes, and ultimately the structure of our brain. Changes in the environment can change the brain and therefore can also change our behaviour.

Therefore, architectural design changes our brain and our behaviour."

In his work, Gage and other neuroscientists have found that a distinctive process occurs in the brain-consciously and subconsciously, cognitively and physiologically from the moment an individual steps into a space. Factors such as shapes, scale, textures, materials and sounds affect emotions, mood, decision-making, health, level of motivation and even memory at any given moment in time.

Humans are largely motivated by what makes them feel good, especially when it comes to decision-making. They express what they want, like and even how much they will pay for an item even if they don't understand where value comes from or what influenced it.

Nobel prize-winning psychologist Professor Daniel Kahneman, says, "We are guided by subconscious impressions and feelings.

Our subconscious mind is so powerful, and we are confident in our intuitive belief that we justify our judgement even if we are faced with facts that prove we are wrong.”

thoughts, beliefs and values that hinder their quality of life," Dr Rahbar said.

"To achieve these elements, we reverse-engineered the design process," Agatha confirmed. "Deliberated on the ever-changing nature of the industry, combined consumer-led expectations with real-world professional needs. All these elements were carefully considered and planned, while ensuring that the capital was invested wisely from the beginning."

AGATHA'S APPROACH "Colour was the obvious place to start," Agatha said, "as vision is our most important sense and provides us with upwards of 80% of the information we use to understand the physical world around us. Colour choice is a very important decision. It provides a visual language that influences our senses and our emotions as well as their intensity.”

"With these principles in mind we introduced milky creams, caramel lattes, full-bodied espressos and rich chocolates. With these colours and tones we communicated a soothing, positive and sophisticated environment, while simultaneously reinforcing trust, reliability and a serious approach to work.”

"In the main consulting room we added a touch of blue, as studies confirm that this colour and tone induce a calming effect, and also lowers the heart rate. We painted the ceiling in deep chocolate, which visually lowers the height, with added cream decorative finishes. Even on the examining table initial impressions upon entering the clinic are subconsciously reinforced with elements to induce a soothing sense of calm.

THE IMPORTANCE OF THE INITIAL CONSULATION SPACE Agatha says she came to understand that the initial patient consultation space is a crucial component in Dr Rahbar's practice. Patients enter in a fragile state, and the first priority for the practitioner is that they gain the individual's trust and confidence with sincerity, respect and sensitivity. Most importantly, Dr Rahbar was looking for ways to better connect with patients and to quickly make them feel at ease.

A WELCOMING WORK ENVIRONMENT Staff morale and retention is also crucial to the success of a business. This was another important influencing factor.

"The best office environment has the potential to attract the best people," he said.

THE INTEPRETATION To achieve these objectives, Agatha said they wanted the patient to feel like a guest, as if they were entering a hotel lobby, with a touch of spa-like ambience. The space and atmosphere had to be inviting with no detail spared to reflect excellence, with the added benefit of the most amazing experience.

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The objective was to rethink the design to capture a boutique healthcare experience in an environment where it felt safe to explore options, rather than making impulsive quick-fix decisions largely around image dissatisfaction factors.

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"Practitioners have an important role to play in fostering healthy beliefs about body weight and shape, while helping the patient to overcome the limitations of challenging unrealistic

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custom-made cream leather upholstered reception and the desk with latte stone tops. We placed the gunmetal blue linen chesterfield sofa in front of handmade couture silk curtains designed to replicate vintage French window fashions. We illuminated the warm rich walls and ceilings with the warm, glow of chandeliers and decorative lamps.

"We dressed the walls with eclectic art, such as the famous Bruno Dutot public mural 'Oucha', a woman with cat; hand-coloured rich Renaissance vases in decoratively ornate frames, and Emma Hack's unique medium of body paint installation and photography.

According to Joan Meyers-Levy, professor at Carlson School of Management, high-ceilinged rooms encourage you to think more freely and abstractly, while low-ceilinged rooms are more intimate and allow for a focus with a greater attention to detail.

By using the same colour scheme, but in differently applications, this allows guests to feel a sense of a new experience to be explored, while reinforcing previously formed positive impressions.

Agatha stressed why they purposely avoided white. Studies confirm that white makes people feel ill, edgy, restless and they lose focus within 15 minutes of being in a pure white room.

Interestingly, people who do IQ tests perform better in a coloured room than in a plain white room.

“In my view, if considering a life-time body-changing procedure I wouldn't want the doctor under the influence of ‘white’.

According to Kahneman, wrong colours can stimulate feelings of uneasiness, or that something is wrong without knowing what it is. You are feeling a conscious emotion without know the cause. Emotional and psychological state can be stimulated through the visual cortex picking up what eyes can't focus, see or process in time. Poorly designed layouts, out of balance proportions, pure white colour and sharp or square edges are just a few examples of how design alters perception and decisions in a negative way.

THE POWER OF SHAPE Studies by neuroscientists at Harvard Medical School also found that faced with photographs of everyday objects, such as sofas, watches and the like, subjects instinctively preferred items with rounded edges over sharp angles.

Neuroscientist Mose Bar speculates that brains are hard-wired to avoid sharp angles because they are read as dangerous. He used a brain scan for a similar study, and found the portion of the brain that registers fear was more active when looking at sharp-edged objects.

HOW THE ELEMENTS CAME TOGETHER "Further, internally we married the building's envelope – an 1870's Victorian symmetrically fronted bluestone property with a richly layered décor and natural materials. Porcelain tiles (with micro-ban to kill germs on contact) with dark-stained wooden floorboards, chocolate and champagne gold wallpaper behind

"For a harmless play on people's personalities, we mixed different styles of seating to visually entice and appeal to a wider clientele. Pieces range from a modern, clear, Louis Ghost chair by Philippe Starck, to classical-contemporary seating with bright, contrasting detail, through to the centrepiece, a plush feather-filled gunmetal blue linen chesterfield sofa with bright cushions.

"A joint study by the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and the National Institute of Mental Health in the United States, suggests that clutter increases the memory experience of a room, and establishes a reassuring sense of place. In other words, a generous scattering of objects generates a fondness for the place.

"As the senses are engaged and influenced by the physical attributes of architecture – light, sound, surface texture and the familiarity of space – they constantly flip switches in the mind, which affects the mental state and mood. The impact of some of these stimuli can have immediate effect, such as the sense of positive calm felt upon entering a warmly coloured cream/chocolate room, while others can take longer to manifest.

But once the effect is created its influence is unlikely to change.

Kahneman refers to this as the, “hallow effect” when a positive effect is produced, the brain anticipates, recognises and understands the result will be positive."

Cosmos Cosmetic Surgery Clinic was an amazing and highly successful design project is making its mark in Adelaide.

“My life is my work; my work is my life,” states Agatha.

This statement is reflected in Agatha Ozhylovski's ongoing exploration of the relationship between spaces and people through lifelong education in a wide range of areas. She recognises that good design requires a quality aesthetic and successful interaction between people and place.

The result is design solutions imbued with a deeper meaning and ideas that are unseen to the untrained eye. But recognised for Agatha's signature style; indefinable warmth. She believes in providing not just a design service, but also an information service, incorporating patterns from history and elements of psychology to achieve more in-depth design solutions.

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"I truly believe that life is not about finding yourself – it is about creating it around you," she concludes.

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AgathaO™ House of Design Mobile: 0414 450 759 Web: www.houseofdesign.net.au

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DermaPeel PRO reduces the effects of ageing, sun damage and other skin imperfections in just one session. While addressing damaged surface layers of the skin, this technology also stimulates and enhances the production of collagen and new cells in the deeper layers to bring about a healthier-looking skin with improved tone and elasticity and a more lively and smoother texture.

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RESURFACING PEEL CLEANSING GEL Contains a unique combination of AHAs, fruit peels and Enzymatic actives to purify and restructure the skin and deliver amazing texture and tone.

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Fighting Light Damage With Light Why LED is the new Darling for Skin Rejuvenation In countries such as Australia where sunny weather is prevalent for most of the year, most of premature ageing is attributed to sun damage, with solar elastosis being the histology synonymous with clinical photo-ageing. While the key environmental factor that contributes to damage to the skin can be attributed to excessive light exposure, it is quite extraordinary that harnessing light for therapeutic purposes can actually mitigate some of these problems. One light-based technology that can deliver excellent results in correcting sun damage is LED. In this article we will examine the benefits of LED and how it can be a wonderful adjunct therapy when combined with laser or IPL to further enhance skin rejuvenation.

WHAT IS SOLAR ELASTOSIS? Solar elastosis consists of the deposition of massive amounts of abnormal elastic material in the upper reticular dermis. These deposits are accompanied by massive amounts of a chondroctin sulfate molecule (versican). This increase in versican and abnormal elastic fibres are accompanied by a corresponding decrease in amounts of collagen and a collagen-associated proteoglycan (decorin).

The primary mutagen seems to be ultraviolet light. However, UVB and UVA radiation differ in their photo-physical properties and penetrate into human skin to different extents.

Comparing the two we must understand that the shorterwavelength UVB radiation is mostly absorbed in the epidermis and predominantly affects epidermal keratinocytes and langerhans cells. On the other hand the longer-wavelength UVA radiation penetrates more deeply and can interact with both epidermal cells and dermal fibroblasts.

PHOTOAGEING Photo-ageing is the damage done to the skin due to the direct effects of ultraviolet light. Clinically, the patient will present with skin that has a sallow complexion, with mottling surface and a coarse, thickened texture.

The skin will often sag or droop due to loss of integrity of elastic tissue. Wrinkles are a major cosmetic concern to patients, and the cause of most wrinkling can be traced back to sun exposure.

These structural changes will often be accompanied by other symptoms of sun damage, including brown spotting (solar lentigines), telangiectasia as well as actinic and seborrheic keratosis.

PHOTOTHERAPY Non-ablative skin rejuvenation using laser, intense pulsed light, RF or LED techniques are becoming increasingly popular due to

the ageing population's desire for fresher, more youthfullooking skin.

While some of these technologies may cause skin trauma and require downtime, non-invasive techniques such as LED offer not only excellent results in improved skin texture, but also a comfortable and pleasurable experience that clients can enjoy and look forward to. Furthermore, as they target the cells differently, an LED treatment can offer extra benefits following an IPL or laser skin-rejuvenation treatment.

Light Emitting Diodes or LED are a form of light therapy that can offer similar effects to laser or IPL, yet differ in the way that light energy is delivered to the skin. LED light is dispersed over a greater surface area and at a lower power energy than laser and initiates the bio-stimulation process of cells. Being a low-light energy it is absorbed by the subcutaneous layers and stimulate cells activity and metabolism.

The phenomenon of light absorption to produce electronic excitation of atoms and molecules has long been proven by many studies. When molecules are excited by light and immediately take part in a chemical reaction, an improvement in the kinetics of the reactions is observed.

Studies also confirm that light irradiation at relatively low power levels influences fibroblast proliferation. This has been proven in vitro, with evidence of activated cells metabolism. Moreover, various light wavelengths are reported to increase growth-factor secretion from cultured macrophages, which provides evidence that LED light also offers support to the immune system.

There are many technologies that promise advanced skin treatment results, however, laser and light-based therapies would have to be the most popular, and this because there is currently numerous studies that validate the power of lightbased therapies for progressive and even rapid skin rejuvenation.

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While lasers and even IPL devices provide excellent skin improvement they often have a level of discomfort. This is where LED is now gaining favour as an adjunct treatment that can be delivered at the end of laser or IPL skin-rejuvenation treatment. So why is a combination therapy recommended and what is the difference since they are both light-based therapies?

FOR EXAMPLE: BLUE LIGHT – Provides a purification action. Thanks to its properties, the blue light is recognised to be the ideal wavelength to solicit porphyrins to obtain a bacteriostatic effect with a consequent elimination of bacteria that contributes to acne formation.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN LASER OR LED? LEDs produce light that is non-coherent, is not focused, is monochromatic and is based on spontaneous emission. Lasers produce light that is coherent, is in a highly focused beam, is monochromatic and is based on stimulated emission. As LED light is a broader spectrum and not focused it targets the cells differently and contrary to Laser or IPL is actually calming and quite soothing. Despite the difference in action LED light continue to stimulate skin rejuvenation and cell renewal and adds added value and enhanced treatment outcome when used following a laser or IPL treatment.

YELLOW LIGHT – Delivers a specific action on the lymphatic system. Yellow light stimulates cell metabolism promoting a detoxifying action to relieve swelling conditions.

RED LIGHT – Stimulates the production of collagen and elastin.

Red light is absorbed by mitochondria and stimulates ATP increasing thus cellular action, enhanced by its activity.

INFRARED LIGHT – Stimulate at greater depth into the skin and effect the energetic recharge of the cell (ATP).

N E W G E N E R AT I O N L E D TECHNOLOGIES

COMBINING LED WITH BIOMIMETIC PEPTIDES

YOUNG AGAIN® is a new-generation LED that features Photobiostimulation and Photo-eudermia, a unique patented technology that features the benefit of light and heat which are 100% explored. Acting at a minimum distance (5-10 mm) the tissue receives all the energy emitted without the dispersion.

New advances are now combining cosmeceuticals with LED treatment to accelerate end results, particularly with skin r e j u v e n a t i o n . S p e c i f i c a l l y, YOUNG AGAIN® has developed a new-generation anti-ageing formulations utilising biomimetic peptides to exert a specific action that mimics that of proteins existing in nature. They are significantly micronised to ensure better skin penetration within the skin.

P H O T O B I O S T I M U L AT I O N – Depending on the colour used will stimulate cell turnover and deliver an anti-ageing effect, improve the healing and repair phase of the skin, control sebaceous glands secretion and deliver bacteriostatic effect to the skin.

These peptide sequences are similar to those of the active part of a natural protein within the skin and mimic their action. They are chemically bound to a molecule of lipophilic nature to improve the penetration through the skin.

PHOTOEUDERMIA – At this phase the light recharges the ATP and triggers a chemical reaction to the skin and hair cells. It enhances the receptivity of cells to cosmeceutical products and the cell's energy is increased. The light stimulates the enhancement of cellular activity and improves the penetration of active ingredients into the epidermal and dermal layers.

The YOUNG AGAIN ® technology generates considerable aesthetic effects on numerous skin conditions and imperfections and has capabilities to treat face, body and scalp to treat various conditions through individual masks.

These include:

! ! ! ! ! ! !

Dull, dehydrated skin Poor blood or lymphatic circulation Post-surgical treatments or scars, micro-dermal-abrasions Blemishes Excellent as a post-laser treatment Photo dynamic therapy treatments Scalp treatments

CHEMICAL AND PHYSICAL EFFECTS On the skin LED works by sending energy-producing packets of light into the deeper layers of the skin. Chemical and physical effects are related to the possibility to reach different layers of the skin, thus activating specific cells according to the wavelength used. This means that specific actions can be derived from the application of the different wavelengths.

Special peptides are selected to promote and support collagen synthesis. These include palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 that mimics the protein that stimulates the fibroblasts, while the palmitoyl tripeptide-28 simulates the natural growth factor of the dermis and results in the synthesis of collagen type I and III and inhibits metalloproteinases.

Additionally, acetyl decapeptide-3, which has a botox-like action, reduces and prevents the formation of wrinkles by promoting firmness and smoothness. Additionally, the tripeptide-l0 Citrulline delivers a collagen- stimulating action and supports neo-collagenesis, softening the appearance of lines and wrinkles, while creating a smooth and plumper skin appearance.

Test reveal that the new protocol that combines these biomimetic peptide formulations with the YOUNG AGAIN® LED treatment is able to achieve significantly improved results in skin rejuvenation.

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®

YOUNG AGAIN is distributed by Medical Formulations who offer several unique technologies and are specialists in LED technologies as well as are pioneers of other equipment innovations and skincare technologies. Phone 07 3376 7998 Email: sales@medicalformulations.com.au www.medicalformulations.com.au

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

Workshop + Wisdom: Cracking the Code of Beauty Business Success Think more profits, more clients and more ways to stand out from the crowd in 2016 Beauty business guru Caroline Nelson will be empowering salon, spa and clinic owners around the country in 2016 with a series of educational seminars, presented in conjunction with The Global Beauty Group. Attendees will learn the key to surviving and thriving in the increasingly competitive beauty and aesthetics industry. As Director of Nelson Beauty Management, Caroline specialises in helping beauty businesses transform their goals into reality, having assisted countless salon, spa and clinics around the country to realise their dreams of business success.

Whether you are a new or established beauty business, this full day workshop is geared towards showing you how to effectively grow your client base, increase profits, save money by plugging 'profit leaks', as well as delivering tried-and-true strategies for up-selling products and services to drive more business through your door with ease. If you think you need a big budget to make an impact, Caroline's 38 years of beauty industry knowledge and experience will have you viewing your business, client base and promotional opportunities with a whole new perspective as she offers vital tips and tricks of the trade for flourishing in the world of beauty.

As leaders in the beauty industry, The Global Beauty Group places great importance on providing beauty businesses of all sizes and expertise with opportunities to up-skill their knowledge and experience an unparalleled level of industry support and mentoring. Join The Global Beauty Group CEO and Co-Founder Kane Hammond for a brief presentation on what to look for when investing in technology, along with insights into the latest aesthetic innovations that are changing the way we approach beauty in this technology-driven age.

Securing a spot for this jam-packed day of learning costs only $49 per person.

DATES: May 30th – Melbourne, June 13th – Brisbane, June 27th – Sydney, July 25th – Perth, August 8th – Adelaide

To register or find out more call The Global Beauty Group on 1300 006 607.

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TOP EIGHT CONSUMER TRENDS FOR 2016 At a recent interview hosted by global cosmetic research giant Cosmetic Design researchers presented trends in cosmetics manufacturing. These are based on research that identify shifts in consumer preferential buying. Understanding these trends is of benefit to clinics and salons in assisting them to align their message and providing their clients with what research is reflecting as the new consumer demand.

4. DIY beauty formulations – Consumers love to be involved with the process of applying products. Products that can be mixed at home from powder to create the end product and therefore require no preservatives will be an attraction, similar to purchasing a protein power and mixing to use at home. “We will see more and more manufacturers introducing ingredients and products that are intended to be blended”, the experts said.

Here are the key areas they identified for 2016:

5. Organic – While these have been around for some time, we will see an increase in advanced formulations that deliver results and not just feel good. We will see an increase in more defined organic ingredients.

1. Sustainability – Three key areas were identified. Earthfriendly packaging (recyclable) will continue to win bonus points with consumers. The public is also very aware of water shortage in the world so formulations will try and minimise the use of water. It is anticipated that by the end of 2017 the use of micro beads will be removed from cosmetic formulations as they are proving an environmental hazard.

2. Biotech – Biotechnology is also winning consumers who are looking for as many natural and biologically available ingredients in their formulation as a preferred choice. Sciencebased products will boom as manufacturers will look beyond what is familiar and invent what is possible.

3. Neurocosmetics – Combining wellness and the sensorial experience is back in vogue. Consumers want the products to offer more than just results – they want them to support their wellness, while also offering an pleasurable experience when used.

6. Experiential retail – Product trial will move into “feel and touch before you buy”. This trend will be promoted on the online space as well as at counters. This is because consumers are wanting to know how the product also feels as to whether they will use it, not just what it will do for them.

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7. Pro-ageing products – These will spill into the wellness category. Natural beauty at any age will be a growing trend, where products are designed to benefit consumers on different levels and at different ages of their life.

8. Beauty on a microscale – Products will move from being designed to fit ethnic groups or age groups - from demographic consideration to psychographic considerations made to meet personal "needs" not just broader classifications.

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POLLUTION CONTRIBUTES TO PIGMENATION STUDIES CONFIRM As cities become more densely populated so does pollution increase. While we know that this can be detrimental to our lungs there is now evidence on how it can also effect the skin. A new study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology has linked traffic-related pollution and air pollution associated gases to the formation of lentigenes on the skin. Letigenes are tiny, round, multiple freckles that are usually as a result of sun exposure.

The large-scale study that included women from Germany and China has demonstrated a link between levels of traffic-related air pollution and air pollution-associated gases with the formation of dark spots, or lentigenes on the skin. The most pronounced changes were observed on the cheeks of Asian women over the age of 50. The report is published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology.

“In addition to particulate matter, traffic-related air pollution is characterised by increased concentration of nitrogen dioxide (NO2). While NO2 exposure is known to be associated with low lung function and lung cancer, the effect of NO2 on human skin has never been investigated. This is important because environmentally-induced lung and skin ageing appear to be closely related,” explained lead investigator Jean Krutmann, MD, of the IUF-Leibniz Research Institute for Environmental Medicine, Dusseldorf, Germany.

Two groups were studied. The first included 806 Caucasian German women who were part of the SALIA study (Study on the influence of Air pollution on Lung function, Inflammation and Ageing). The average age was 73.5 years (range 67 to 80 years) and 20% had a history of smoking. These women reportedly spent an average of 2.6 hours a day in the sun.

The second group included 743 Han Chinese women from the Taizhou region who were somewhat younger than the SALIA group, with an average age of 59 (range 28 to 70 years). Twenty per cent of this group had a history of smoking, with a reported average daily sun exposure of 3.5 hours. Many more women in the SALIA group reported using cosmetics with sun protection (61% vs. 4.2%). The mean levels of NO2 exposure were 28.8 µg/m3 in the SALIA study and 24.1 µg/m3 in the Taizhou China group.

No association was seen between levels of NO2 and lentigenes' formation on the back of the hands or forearms, however, exposure to NO2 was significantly associated with more lentigenes on the cheeks in both German and Chinese women older than 50 years. Overall, an increase of 10 µg/m3 in NO2 concentration was associated with approximately 25% more dark spots. The spots were visually evaluated by trained personnel according to photo reference scales and quantified using a validated skin aging score system (SCINEXA).

The investigators performed sensitivity analysis to see whether they could pinpoint whether it was the concentration of particulate matter or NO2 gas that had a greater impact on dark spot formation. They found that the NO2 gas had a slightly stronger effect than the particulate matter concentration.

“To the best of our knowledge, this is the largest epidemiological study demonstrating a link between traffic-related air pollution and the formation of lentigenes,” noted co-investigator Li Jin, PhD, of Fudan University's State Key Laboratory of Genetic Engineering. Dr Jin also stated that the findings also strengthen the concept that the pathogenesis of lentigenes might differ depending on the anatomical site.

Lentigenes, also known as liver spots, are small, darkened areas of the skin. Although they may first appear small, they may enlarge and separate patches may merge. They are most commonly found on the face, forearms, hands, and upper trunk.

Usually brown in colour, lentigenes can appear yellow-tan to black. Lentigenes are more common in light-skinned individuals and in the US, solar (sun-associated) lentigenes are noted in 90% of Caucasians older than 60 and 20% of those younger than 35 years.

Lentigenes, which contain an increased number of the melaninforming cells of the skin (melanocytes), are generally benign, although some forms may be pre-cancerous. The findings point to the importance role of antioxidants for skin protection both through topically application and through diet.

Ref: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jid.2015.12.045 published online in advance of its issue of the Journal of Investigative Dermatology by Elsevier.

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Technology from the future - HERE TODAY

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27/01/2016 12:04 pm

International Aesthetic Show Calendar Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd April 10-11The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Pennsylvania Convention Center 1101 Arch St Philadelphia, PA T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@Ineonline.com April 21-23 Beauty Eurasia Istanbul Expo Center Istanbul, Turkey T: +90 212 6033333 F: + 90 212 6033333 E-Mail: info@beautyeurasia.com April 24-25 Esthetique SPA International Downtown Metro Convention Centre Toronto, Canada T: + 886 772 7469 Email: info@spa-show.com

RESEARCHERS DEVELOP CONCEPT FOR NEW SUNSCREEN THAT ALLOWS BODY TO PRODUCE VITAMIN D For the first time researchers have developed a process for altering the ingredients in a sunscreen that does not impact its sun protection factor (SPF), but does allow the body to produce vitamin D. The findings, published in the peer reviewed journal PLOS ONE, has led to the production of a new sunscreen called Solar D. Sun exposure is the major source of vitamin D for most children and adults worldwide. It is also recognised that vitamin D deficiency and insufficiency is a major health problem that afflicts approximately 40 per cent of children and 60 per cent of adults. However, because of concern for increased risk for skin cancer, widespread sunscreen use has been implemented. As a result, an SPF of 30 when properly applied, reduces the capacity of the skin to produce vitamin D by almost 98 per cent.

According to the researchers there are several chemical compounds that are typically used in a sunscreen that efficiently absorbed varying wavelengths of UVB radiation. After removing certain ingredients the researchers compared Solar D, which has an SPF of 30, to a popular commercial sunscreen with the same SPF, and found Solar D allowed for up to 50 per cent more production of vitamin D in-vitro.

"Solar D was designed with compounds with differing filter compositions to maximise vitamin D production while maintaining its sun protection for reducing erythema or burning of the skin," explained corresponding author Michael F. Holick, PhD, MD, professor of medicine, physiology and biophysics at Boston University School of Medicine and an endocrinologist at Boston Medical Center.

Solar D is currently available in Australia and will be available in the U.S. summer 2016.

May 12-14 Cosmetex 16 Cosmetic Surgery and Medical Expo Sydney Hilton Sydney T: 02 93681200 F: 02 9368 1500 Email: cosmetexreg@cosmetex.org May 14-16 Professional Hair Removal Conference Sheraton Arlington Hotel Arlington, Texas T: + 1 1 800 9613777 Email: Melissa@dermascope.com May 15-16 The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas Arlington Convention Center Arlington, Texas T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@Ineonline.com May 22 APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE Stamford Plaza, Brisbane T: 07 55930360 F: 07 55930367 Email: info@apanetwork.com June 2-5 Non-Surgical Symposium Australian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS) Melbourne Convention Centre T: 03 9020 7056 Email: info@tphe.com.au 100

June 4-6 Premier Orlando Orlando/Orange County Convention Center T: +1 407.265.3131 F: +1 407.265.3134 June 16-19 Facial Esthetic Conference & Exhibition QEII Centre Westminster, London T: + 020 7514 5989 Email: info@face-ltd.com

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skinscience

Prevention and Photo-ageing

by Dr Des Fernandes While we are all familiar with the role of sunscreen in protecting the skin from sun damage and photo-ageing, new research is coming to light as to why we aren't winning the battle against skin cancer. The recently published book Vitamin A Skin Science – A scientific guide to healthy skin presents some compelling new research data that is invaluable to every skincare professional. Written by Dr Des Fernandes and Dr Ernst Eiselen, it provides comprehensive information on the latest research findings on sunscreens, antioxidants, peptides, skin peeling, skin needling and other technologies in protecting and improving the skin.

We gained permission to share with you the chapter on Prevention and Photoageing: Sun Protection.

We trust you will find the article invaluable and consider purchasing the book for further enlightening and useful reading.

One should never underestimate the importance of daily protection from UV rays. Scientists believe that in the past 25 years the ozone layer has been depleted by 3 per cent. This may not sound like much, but for every 1 per cent there is a six per cent increase in skin cancers. In November 1994 the ozone layer over Europe and the USA was 10-15 per cent below the normal level. The danger has progressively increased and still the major pollutant-producing countries have not radically changed their

production of pollutants. I doubt that we will see any major improvements in the next 30 years because it will take a long time before changes on earth are reflected in the higher atmosphere were ozone is situated.

Nature tries to deal with excessive sun exposure by two methods, increasing the thickness of the skin and by darkening the colour. A thickened horny layer gives better protection to the skin, but mainly from UVB rays. A tan is the skin's reaction to damaging UV rays. The pigment cells cells produce more granules of melanin, and melanin absorbs and scatters UV radiation. Melanin is also an extremely powerful free-radical scavenger. Because melanin absorbs all colours of light, it appears black in colour. The absorption of the energy of the whole spectrum of light does not seem to inactivate melanin.

However, melanin is more protective against UVB rays than UVA, so the UVA rays can still damage the deeper layers of the skin. However, almost paradoxically, a tan is not a good protection from UV damage, in fact a tan is a scar. Although the melanin produced in the process of tanning becomes protective, the process of producing the tan causes the damage! And remember, this damage is cumulative and does not disappear ever if very little exposure follows the damaging episodes.

It is obvious that natural protection is not enough. We are advised to stay out of the midday sun as much as possible, but that would condemn us to vitamin D insufficiency, which has dire consequences. We should ideally go into the midday sun

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without sunscreen for an appropriate time according to our skin colour. Then after that apply topical vitamin A, C, E etc to replace those that have been lost by sun exposure and then put on the sunscreen. Most people will not be able to produce the best levels of vitamin D and for that reason they should also supplement orally with vitamin D.

WHAT IS EFFECTIVE, SENSIBLE PROECTION FROM THE SUN? For extended periods of sun exposure you should wear sensible clothing made of tightly woven cotton and apply an effective sun protection cream to exposed skin. Remember that we also need to get some UVB in order to make vitamin D, so don't block out the sun too much. Life's like that – a dedicated balance of getting just enough and not too much! The safety of sun exposure and the balance of protection are always improved by supplementing the essential vitamins A, C and E every day.

using both UVA and UVB sunscreens combined with potent antioxidants.

Scientists do not recommend anything stronger that SPF 15 to 20 because there is minimal advantage from the higher SPFs, but significantly greater doses of sunscreen chemicals. Scientists have recently found that samples of unprotected skin had fewer free radical in the depth of the skin than skin that had been protected with the ingredients found in the most popular American stronger sunscreens. The reason is that stronger creams contain greater concentrations of organic sunscreen agents, which themselves can be converted into free radicals by exposure to UV rays.

A frightening statistic is that skin cancer has risen in the USA and Australia since high SPF products were introduced.1 We are not sure why. Do people perhaps stay longer in the sun and incur more damage, or are the protective molecules damaging our skin by generating free radicals? It is much better if most of all the protection is supplied by titanium dioxide and zinc oxide or

A person who does not have a clearly sun-damaged skin needs to make vitamin D by exposing arms, legs and part of the back and neck for no longer than 20 minutes two or three times per OTHER NATURAL SUN-PROTECTIVE MOLECULES CONFIRMED BY STUDIES: week. A lot has been written about vitamin D deficiency, * Lycopene is a very convenient one because we get it when especially linked to breast cancer and osteoporosis. Many other we eat food like tomatoes (and especially tomato soup or sauce). cancers have now also been A lycopene-rich diet can offer greater protection and may last as shown to be linked to vitamin D long as 36 hours. deficiency, and as we have ageing * Beta-carotene is an important molecule to reduce UV stress. population, all of these conditions are becoming increasingly * Vitamin C is a way to reduce UV damage important. * Vitamin E reduces sun damage

WHAT SHOULD YOU LOOK FOR IN A SUNSCREEN?

* Polypodium leucotomos (a type of topical fruit from the Americas) is another sunscreen agent that can be applied or taken orally to reduce sensitivity to UV damage. * Green tea has wonderful photo-protective properties through the polyphenol molecule that helps minimise photo-damage. The richer your skin is in derivates of green tea, the safer it will be in the sun.

Real protection from a topically applied sun-protective cream should consist of at least three essential elements to be properly effective against excessive, damaging, ultraviolet light.

These elements are adequate UVA cover, adequate UVB cover and sufficient antioxidant cover. Protection elements are either organic molecules, or reflectors, which reflect and scatter the energy, or organic sun filters that chemically absorb part of the sun's UV radiation, or inorganic sunscreens that reflect UV rays.

Sun reflection is undoubtedly more effective and probably much safer than chemical absorption; however, some rays will still manage to penetrate and damage your skin. Because UVA light activates free radicals, it is sensible to use free-radical scavengers at the same time as sun filters or sunscreens.

Antioxidants are free radical scavengers that help minimise the damage of UV rays that penetrate the sunscreens and filters.

I believe we should use milder sun protection like SPF 4-8 daily and use the strong creams (above SPF 15 to 20) only when we expose ourselves for protracted periods, such as during sports activities. It is important to remember that the SPF rating largely refers to UVB protection, as the index is based on reddening or sunburn, and is therefore an incomplete and possibly misleading index in terms of cancer prevention in skin. Check that you are

other reflective minerals. If you use a purely mineral-based sunscreen without any organic sunscreens, there is no objection to using higher-rated sunscreens. In fact, if one were to use more opaque white sunscreens then virtually 100 per cent of light would be blocked out. Such sunscreens would be very useful to prevent and even control the formation of sun freckles.

ABSORBENT ORGANIC SUN FILTERS Absorbent sun filters trap the energy of the UV rays and therefore change their own molecular structure. The molecule is then deactivated as a sunscreen and may be converted into a free radical.

Most filters absorb only the UVB and not the UVA rays, whereas few may be effective for both UVA and UVB rays.

Unfortunately, in many of these cases the effect is usually weaker protection against UVA. On the other hand, there are other chemicals that are partly effective only against UVA and give minimal UVB protection. Newer organic sunscreens are photo-stable and not permanently deactivated and can be recycled back into a sun-screening molecule and are more

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have rung because of the possible carcinogenic effects of irradiated retinyl palmitate, but in clinical work, on living humans, exactly the opposite has been found.

effective against UVA. They do not form free radicals on exposure to sunlight.

UVB PROTECTION The oldest absorbent sun filter – but today also the most controversial – is para-amino benzoic acid (PABA). PABA is effective in absorbing UVB rays and very effectively prevents reddening of the skin, but paradoxically does not prevent damage of the Langerhans cells (immune cells), which are the most important cells in maintaining healthy skin. PABA has been implicated in facilitating DNA damage and subsequently skin cancer.

Today the most successful UVB protective range is still the methoxycinnamate group that has very little activity in the UVA range. Methoxycinnamates also become free radicals when exposed to the UVA irradiation, but their protection is greater than the potential free-radical damage if we reapply them every 90 to 120 minutes and use antioxidants at the same time.

Other sunscreens such as octocrylene or benzophenone-3 are mainly UVB sunscreens that also generate free radicals.

Benzophenone-34 is often referred to as a broad spectrum UVB and A sunscreen, but it has limited value, and is a potent generator of free radicals. It is difficult to understand why it has not been removed from the list of permitted sunscreen agents.

UVA PROTECTION Bemotrizonol (Tinosorb S) and bisoctrizole (Tinosorb M) are effective UVA and UVB sunscreens and are both stable in sunlight and do not become free radicals. Debenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) is a most effective UVA screen but, like most molecules, becomes a free radical after absorbing UVA rays.

Gradually newer molecules will be introduced that are stable and do not become deactivated or converted into free radicals.

Benzophenone is often claimed as a UVA absorber, but it is really a UVB absorber with weak UVA protection. The important point is that we do not know enough about the longterm effects of organic sunscreens. I believe we should rely much more on reflectant inorganic, metallic or mineral molecules as effective sunscreens.

Cluver was the first person to report that oral vitamin A immediately before or after sun exposure reduced the UV damage. At the time he did not consider topical application but, from what we now know, we would achieve photo-protection faster and more efficiently with topical application to specific sites. Oral vitamin A supplementation of up to 75,000 IU per day has been found to be clinically safe and effective in minimising photo-damage and also in reducing the chance of getting skin cancer. If you regularly nourish yourself with these and numerous other natural molecules you can be sure that you will be safer when exposed to sunlight and it will definitely not interfere with natural vitamin D formation.

REFLECTANT INORGANIC SUNSCREENS These agents reflect or block most of the rays (even visible light) and they are opaque, virtually inert, substances. They are more effective in photo-protection than the UV filters, but can cause a white film when used in cosmetic preparations. Most important is titanium oxide, an opaque white powder, ground ultrafine for use in creams. Titanium has the fortunate property of not being recognised as foreign to human tissue, so people who react against other UV filters can use it safely. Titanium dioxide can become a free radical after exposure to sunlight, but only to a very slight degree. It will react with antioxidant vitamins unless specially coated with silica or alumina, and then it is safe to use.

It is important to point out that the whitening of skin after applying a reflective sunscreen is a positive feature from the protection point of view, because it means that an adequate layer of sun-protectant has been placed on the skin. The most effective sun protection, which you can often see in sportsmen, comes from a thick paste of zinc oxide, which blocks out sunlight completely. Newer modifications of zinc and titanium dioxide should allow us to make sophisticated transparent sunscreens that also allow inclusion of antioxidant vitamins in the formulations without interacting with the zinc or titanium.

Another very important sun reflectant is zinc oxide, which also has other beneficial effects on the skin. It is probably one of the safest molecules that we can apply to our skin and may be the best sun reflectant. It reduces acne and is essential for normal collagen formation. Unfortunately, zinc will react with the antioxidant vitamins.

Remember that there is no truly effective cosmetically acceptable protection from the sun that we can rely on, unless the use of opaque screens comes into fashion. It would be a useful indicator to ensure better coverage of skin if more sunscreens were somewhat opaque. If you can't see it, it's not protected.

Transparent protects allow no means of judging the quality of the cover before sun exposure.

Before we leave the subject of organic sunscreens, note that many natural molecules in our skin are in fact powerful organic sunscreens.

INFRARED DAMAGE

The most powerful sun-protective molecule is retinyl palmitate, which in adequate doses can have a photo-protective effect equivalent to SPF20 and has additional protection against UVA. Like virtually every moleculre that protects us from sunlight, free radicals may be generated from irradiated retinyl palmitate, but they seem less significant. In skin-cell cultures alarm bells

While a great deal of attention has focused on UVB protection despite the fact that it is only about 5 per cent of the UV light, almost no one pays any attention to infra-red (IR) light, which is far more prevalent than UV light and can penetrate deep into the skin. We know IR rays more for their heating effects, but relatively little attention has been paid to the damaging effects of the heat on our skin cells. We now recognise that IR can cause

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epidermal atrophy, pigment blemishes, collagen degeneration and dermal elastosis - the signs we also see in photo-ageing. We clearly need protection from IR in our sunscreens.

considers the simple facts that explain the mechanisms of damage.

IN SUMMARY At this stage we know we have to counter the free radicals included by IR, so topically applied antioxidants have to be in every sunscreen. IR also induces matrix metalloproteinases , which can be minimised by antioxidants. As better-carotene seems to have a specific role in protecting skin from IR we should not ignore the importance of taking oral supplements of antioxidants with carotenoids to help minimise IR damage.

Hyperforin, an extract from hypericum perforatum, has been shown to be effective at reducing IR damage. More molecules will emerge soon to add to our armamentarium against IR. The darker the skin is, the more protection it needs from IR, but currently most sunscreens do not take this fact into account. We really need different sunscreens for people with darker skins who make up over 60 per cent of the world's population. We also need a better understanding of all the effects of UV and visible light as well as IR.

ANTIOXIDANTS AS SUNSCREENS Antioxidants are a relatively new concept in protecting of the skin from damage by UV, visible light, and IR rays,which I have been insisting on using in sunscreens since 1990. It is important to understand that they do not block UV rays from entering the skin.

How do they work then? It has been explained in an earlier chapter of Vitamin A Skin Science how light generates from free radicals and also that most sunscreens become free radicals when exposed to UV light. If the sunscreen has been absorbed it aggravates the free radical challenge to the skin, an especially important consideration when treating pigmentation blemishes.

Free radicals stimulate the release of active chemicals that induce the melanocyte to make more melanin, so if we are treating pigmentation we have to keep the number of free radicals in the skin as low as possible.

Topical antioxidants are attractive as agents to modify this damage because they can mop up excess free radicals. An interesting fact has emerged in my studies – that antioxidants are useful even after sunburn. Apply antioxidants to sunburned skin and you will see that the burnt tissue returns to normal at a faster rate than usual. For an even better result add topical vitamin A and also take oral antioxidants and vitamin A.

We are told that it is wise to protect our skin from the sun, and some people even avoid going into sunlight and consequently suffer from vitamin D deficiency. We have to expose ourselves to sunlight regularly, but we also have to protect ourselves. Sun protection is not a simple topic and the SPF numbers that indicate only the UV protection have deceived us. Increased use of sunscreens has not led to a concomitant deduction in skin cancer. It is better not to rely solely on sunscreen agents but to be sensible about how we expose ourselves to the sun. Our clothing is still the best protection that we have. Our sunscreens should always contain a broad spectrum of antioxidants. Dietary supplements can also go a long way towards reducing UV damage. Protecting the skin cells against the damage induced by ultraviolet light is therefore only part of the protection of the skin. One should remember to reapply sunscreen after swimming or exercise.

Unless sunscreen contains both water and lipid-soluble antioxidants it should be considered safe. There is no such thing as a complete sunscreen, regardless of what marketers tell us.

Common sense based on sound understanding of the complex mechanisms involved will provide a balanced approach to sensible sun exposure in light-skinned individuals.

By being aware of what is hype and what is common sense, you can keep yourself and your clients safe in the sun and still get all the benefits of sun exposure. I believe that by keeping our skin rich in retinyl palmitate we go a long way towards ideal protection from UV damage, while allowing us to make vitamin D naturally.

Reference: As there are over 33 references in this article we were not able to include them here, however, you can access them by purchasing the book.

VITAMIN A Skin Science - A scientific guide to healthy skin by Dr Des Fernandes and Dr Ernst Eiselen is available for purchase for $65 from Environ Skin Care Australia Phone: 1300 888 708.

The most important antioxidants normally found in the skin are vitamins C, vitamin E, glutathione, alpha-lipoic acid and coenzyme Q10 (the network antioxidants). Beta-carotene and other carotenoids (such as lutein, lycopene and zeaxanthine) have an advantage in IP protection, Frlavonoids, selenium, superoxide dismutase and zinc all assist in giving us better free radical protection.

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Protecting the skin cells against the damage caused by UV light is therefore only a part of logical and sensible protection of the skin. Excess free radical activity is the source of DNA oxidation and skin ageing and skin cancer are a function of decay in DNA. Antioxidants are therefore the real protection against damage, especially as it is well known that DNA damage in skin cells, which causes skin cancer is an incremental, cumulative process.

Relying on an SPF factor alone is hopelessly inadequate if one

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starperformer

AUSTRALIA'S MOST ADVANCED EQUIPMENT TECHNOLOGIES In today's competitive business environment clinics and salons need to be assured they are able to offer consumers the best possible results in their skin and body treatments and to achieve this they need advanced devices designed to highperformance standards that can deliver reliable, safe, consistent and exceptional results.

If you are looking for the most cutting-edge aesthetic and medical devices you have come to the right place!

Ausmed International is an Australian leading supplier of Intense Pulse Light (IPL) devices, diode lasers and advanced technologies for body shaping and toning that can deliver a broad range of treatments from face to body.

We can provide you with exceptional devices to deliver amazing body contouring results through to treatment of various skin conditions, as well as advanced skin rejuvenation results.

Our machines are competitively priced to make them affordable without compromising on quality. All our devices are ergonomically designed and are user-friendly for both efficacy and ease of use.

Designed to deliver exact and precise treatment outcomes they will ensure that you can guarantee your clients excellent results each and every time.

QUALITY TRAINING Ausmed International is dedicated in providing you with thorough training, expert advice and on-going support to ensure clinics and salons can confidently deliver the best possible treatment outcomes to meet with their clients' expectation.

With our expert advice and thorough training of our devices with Ausmed International you can be assured that your investment with our devices will be a positive and profitable experience, while your clients will be delighted with the excellent results you can achieve for them.

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need our assistance and to ensure that your device can deliver results to its highest potential.

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BECAUSE WE WANT YOU TO BE THE BEST Staying ahead of the competition is easy when you can offer your clients the very best in advanced results OUR GUARANTEE: 8 TGA approved Professional Equipment 8 12 months Warranty 8 Marketing support 8 Comprehensive training with each purchase 8 Complementary demonstrations by Appointment

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productperformers

APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE 2016 Get ready for POSITIVE CHANGES

BRISBANE STAMFORD PLAZA

Sunday May 22nd Brisbane will mark the first APAN conference in 2016 at the beautifully appointed Stamford Plaza. This year's program will herald new industry advances as APAN unveils the launch of THREE EXCITING NEW PROGRAMs THAT PROMISE TO BE GAME-CHANGERS FOR THE AESTHETICS INDUSTRY. This unique program will deliver on its promise as the most informative industry event that will offer you a comprehensive industry overview to help you strategically plan with greater confidence for a more successful future. Gain new updates on regulations, industry changes, the latest in consumer expectation, scientific information and the latest in business strategies. With the theme – Get ready for positive change, the conference will feature an array of amazing speakers who are experts in their field. This is a dynamic, one-day event that will transform the way you view the profession and your business. We promise you that!

Book Sunday 22nd May in your diary and Register today.

Here is the program:

8.30am - 9.00am REGISTRATION AND NETWORKING TOPIC: THE NEW STANDARDS REVOLUTION SPEAKER: Tina Viney, CEO of APAN TIME: 9.00AM-10.00AM Ever-evolving and constantly changing our industry is currently exposed to incredible choices in technologies, new techniques and the option of moving forward in specific areas of specialisation. Meanwhile, with these opportunities also come new challenges and threats – can you deliver the specific level of results that you are promising, and can other practitioners within the healthcare profession provide consumers with better options? Clearly, the industry needs higher levels of education to ensure continued growth and business success. Additionally, new industry structures and platforms are also needed to better support this new era of rapid advancement that is redefining the scope of practice of our industry.

Tina Viney is an industry governance expert and visionary who meticulously studies consumer and industry trends for the purpose of alerting the aesthetics industry on what lies ahead. As the CEO of APAN she is relentlessly and passionately committed to the protection of the aesthetics industry through her close involvement with government regulators and in identifying innovative pathways to support a more secure and better future for practitioners and their businesses in the aesthetics industry. In this lecture she will present compelling information on the launch of three new industry initiatives, their purpose and aim in supporting you and providing the pathway for current and future regulations and securing a strong future for you, your business and the industry.

In this lecture you will learn:

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What are the key drivers that are determining the industry's direction Why standards are the New Business Tool for success New structures that will become game changers for the industry Industry changes, why they cannot be avoided and what benefits do they offer you

NETWORKING BREAK 10.00AM - 10.30AM TOPIC: NEW INNOVATIVE DERMATOLOGICAL THERAPIES SPEAKER: Dr Michael Freeman – F.A.C.D Dermatologist / F.R.A.C.G.P. Laser Specialist / MBBS. (Qld) TIME: 10.30AM - 11.15AM The treatment of the skin in aesthetics also requires that we address therapeutic solutions for acute or chronic skin disorders. This lecture will provide you with knowledge on the latest innovations in dermatology that are offering solutions for various skin conditions and disorders.

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Dr Michael Freeman is the principal Dermatologist at The Skin Centre, specialising in Cosmetic and Laser Dermatology. He has over 30 years’ experience in the medical field, and in addition to his position at The Skin Centre, Dr Freeman is the Director of Dermatology at the Gold Coast Hospital, a visiting

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Dermatologist at the Princess Alexandra Hospital in Brisbane, and is an Associate Professor of Dermatology at Bond University.

Learning Objectives: 1.

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In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

The benefits of new topical over-the-counter products now available What are the current changes in lasers and are they worth it How are the restrictions changing in therapies after Roaccutane and Radiotherapy?

What are the revolutionary new treatments for eczema and psoriasis?

The importance of external validation Understanding Risk Management Good Governance Outcomes and measures

NETWORKING BREAK AND LUNCH 12.45PM - 1.45PM TOPIC: THE POWER OF THE AMAZING CELL MEMBRANE SPEAKERS: Gay Wardle and Lynette Rouse TIME: 1.45PM - 2.15PM

NETWORKING BREAK 11.15AM-12.00PM TOPIC: THE BENEFITS OF ACCREDITING YOUR BUSINESS SPEAKER: Mr Stacy Kambouris – QIP consultant and assessor TIME: 12.00PM - 12.45noon As competition becomes fierce many businesses are reverting to discounting in order to gain access to new clients.

However, research is confirming a new trend – consumers are now looking past the price point to the quality, credibility and value of what they are paying for as the key deciding factor that will determine their choice, especially when it comes to services. In support of the aesthetics industry APAN has established a Strategic Alliance Partnership with Quality Innovation Performance (QIP). QIP is Australia's most comprehensive accreditation provider, supporting health, community and human services organisations. Through the QIP Health Service Accreditation Program clinics and salons in the aesthetics industry can now be assessed against the National Safety and Quality Health Service Standards (NSQHS) and gain external validation for complying with the highest possible health and service standards. Stacy Kambouris is a QIP consultant and assessor with extensive experience and knowledge in the area of assessment and compliance in quality standards. He has helped numerous businesses gain certification and accreditation. In this lecture he will share the value and benefit of the QIP/APAN accreditation program and how this can help propel your business to greater recognition and growth.

With new advances in technology and increased competition every business is challenged to continually reach new levels of treatment outcomes. This is now the expected norm by resultsdriven consumers.

However, following standardised procedural protocols alone may not necessarily guarantee the results your clients are expecting. The reasons may be many and varied, but often they are due to a compromised or dysfunctional cell membrane that is inhibiting the delivery of nutrients through the cell wall, or even the release of wastes from within. Gay Wardle and Lynette Rouse both have many years of experience as practitioners, business owners and trainers and educators.

Furthermore, they both hold tertiary-level qualification in health sciences, so their information is both scientifically sound and practical. In this presentation Gay and Lynette will deliver some amazing information in a fun, interactive and dynamic way that will allow you to clearly understand the cell membrane and the communication mechanisms that directly influence all intracellular and extracellular activity, what compromise them and ways to overcome them.

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In this lecture you will learn:

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The biology and physiology of the cell and the role of the cell membrane

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What compromises its function and how this can sabotage your treatment results How to create a wellness environment to optimise the function of the cell membrane Ingredient choices to help you optimise skin health and treatment results.

NETWORKING BREAK 2.15PM-2.45PM TOPIC: COMBINATION THERAPIES FOR OPTIMAL RESULTS IN SKIN REJUVATION SPEAKER: Dr Ingrid Tall MBBs, Dip. Comn., F.R.A.C.G.P, F.C.P.C.A TIME: 2.45PM - 3.30PM Cosmetic medicine today has moved well beyond the frontier of simply using spot treatments with dermal fillers and injectables. Cosmetic clinics can now offer a multitude of treatments affecting various layers of the anatomy, which can be used in combination to help achieve the desired refreshed and natural look. Currently the greatest fear consumers have is that the treatment results may leave them looking unnatural and overdone. Enhancing and refreshing a client's look can be achieved by incorporating multiple approaches and techniques.

These may offer an emphasis on collagen stimulation or collagen boosting to help achieve these goals. Several of these clinical techniques will be discussed in this lecture.

Dr Ingrid Tall is a cosmetic doctor and General Practitioner, former AMA Qld President and TV Medical Journalist, who has over 20 years' experience in cosmetic medicine. In her lecture Dr Tall will explore some of options (both collagen boosting and

non-collagen stimulating) that are available to cosmetic practitioners to enhance clinical outcomes through a combination of therapies in cosmetic medicine and aesthetic practices. These will include IPL, laser, cosmetic injectables, CoolSculpting, Ultherapy, Carboxytherapy, fractional resurfacing, PRP, skin needling and hydra facials, etc.

In this lecture you will learn:

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Updates on cosmetic techniques Valuable proven combination therapies An introduction to Carboxytherapy Key challenges in cosmetic medicine

NETWORKING BREAK 3.30PM-4.00PM TOPIC: SALES IN THE AESTHE TICS INDUSTRY – GETTING COMFORTABLE BEING UNCOMFORTABLE SPEAKER: Billy Rickman – Founder and CEO of XY Skin and Body Specialists TIME: 4.00PM-4.45PM One of the most common areas that businesses struggle with in the aesthetics industry is in identifying ways to increase revenue through product sales in a way that allows them to retain their integrity as a professional service provider. Billy Rickman has experienced these challenges and has overcome them. As the founder and CEO of XY Skin and Body Specialists he launched his first salon in 2009 and through his passion and commitment has expanded his business into a nationally recognised, award-winning successful franchise model.

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Billy has received numerous accolades for his efforts with XY and continues to build a strong and reliable brand across Australia. In this lecture he will share with you some of the most important tried and proven strategies and the modern approach to achieving successful sales figures and supporting business growth.

At this lecture you will learn:

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How to find out what your client really wants The most effective ways to retail to your clients Learn how to create an instant rapport with your clients The winning strategies on how to double your sales instantly with the clients you already have.

APAN MEMBERS: $230 – Non members $249.

Special rates apply for group bookings of three or more.

To register for the Brisbane Conference visit www.apanetwork.com and complete your registration form on-line or phone 07 5593 0360 for any further questions.

For hotel accommodation at the Stamford Plaza please phone them on 07 3221 1999 and request the APAN CONFERENCE RATE for accommodation. The Stamford Plaza is located at the corner of Edward and Margaret Streets, Brisbane.

REGISTRATION This conference is a fully certified Professional Development Program. It is a fully catered event and includes morning and afternoon teas as well as buffet lunch. Delegates will receive a Kit on arrival and will be issued with a Statement of Attendance at the end of the day. Continued Education Points will be designated to those who attend this program.

PRE-REGISTRATION IS ESSENTIAL FOR CATERING PURPOSES

Post-Graduate Training COSMETIC TATTOOING – ADVANCED TECHNIQUES

DESIGNER EYEBROWS MONDAY 23 MAY directly after the conference PLEASE SEE PAGE 79 FOR FURTHER DETAILS. This is full-day Hands-On Workshop with STATEMENT OF COMPLETION.

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The benefits of National Standards Recognition

QIP SPECIALISED HEALTH SERVICES ACCREDITION PROGRAM While the aesthetics industry does have Health Regulation guidelines, to a certain extent there are still certain gaps and a need for uniform standards that are supported by protocols that reflect best practice across the board.

been highly successful and has received global recognition and support with currently over one million organisations worldwide independently certified, making ISO 9001 one of the most widely used management tools in the world today.

This has been a concern for APAN for some time. To help improve the safety and quality of care for our industry APAN investigated the option of establishing its own Standards Certification program. We looked at the various options both nationally and internationally. We were familiar with the ISO 9001 certifications, which are recognised internationally as providing the highest-quality management systems in the world that have been around since 1974. These standards help organisations ensure that they meet the needs of customers and other stakeholders, while also meeting statutory and regulatory requirements related to a product. The ISO standards deal with the fundamentals of quality management systems, including the eight management principles upon which the family of standards is based.

The global adoption of ISO 9001 may be attributable to several factors. Numerous studies have identified significant financial benefits for organisations certified to ISO 9001standards, with a 2011 survey from the British Assessment Bureau showing 44% of their certified clients had won new business. A further study Corbett et al., showed that certified organisations achieved superior return on assets compared to otherwise similar organisations without certification. Other studies found that implementing ISO 9001 standards led to superior operational performance. The studies also confirmed that this was statistically significant and not a function of organisation size.

WHY IS ISO 9001 SO SUCCESSFUL? In terms of quality assurance the most credible option is through the provision of third-party certification bodies that offer independent confirmation that organisations meet the requirements of national and international quality standards and are certified to this effect. This method of quality assurance has

IDENTIFYING THE NEED AND PROVIDING A SOLUTION There is no doubt that consumers today look beyond discounting and value quality assurance towards treatment outcomes and safety standards. In a bid to identify the appropriate accreditation body that will best suit our healthcare-based industry APAN conducted research into the options. Within Australia the most credible body that met with our criteria for an external accrediting process was an organisation known as Quality Innovation Performance Limited (QIP).

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After several meetings with QIP and subsequent evaluation of several APAN clinics within the aesthetics industry QIP identified an appropriate accreditation program that would suit eligible clinics within our industry. The program would benchmark the clinics against the National Safety and Quality Health Service (NSQHS) Standards and the Medicare Local Accreditation Standards. These also meet with Commonwealth Standards. The clinics would be guided in implementing these processes to secure Specialised Health Services Accreditation.

WHO IS QIP AND THE QIP SPECIALISED HEALTH SERVICES ACCREDITATION PROGRAM To improve the safety and quality of care provided by Aesthetics Practitioner clinics to their clients or patients throughout Australia, APAN has worked with Quality Innovation Performance Limited (QIP) to deliver the QIP SPECIALISED H E A LT H S E R V I C E S ACCREDITATION PROGRAM to the eligible clinics within the aesthetics industry.

QIP is Australia's most comprehensive not-for-profit accreditation provider, supporting health, community and human services organisations to manage risk and continuous quality improvements, by providing independent, third-party assessment services.

The QIP Specialised Health Services Accreditation Program assesses against the National Safety and Quality Health Service (NSQHS) Standards, a set of ten (10) Standards developed by the Australian Commission on Safety and Quality in Health Care aimed at protecting the public from harm and improving the quality of health-service provision.

Being awarded accreditation under the QIP Specialised Health Services Accreditation Program means that your Clinic or Salon is committed to a comprehensive program which involves: ! Engaging your whole team in the review of your clinic's systems and processes ! Assessing your clinic against a set of nationally recognised professional standards that focus on quality care and client safety ! Engaging your clinic in the continuous quality improvement journey.

Achievement of QIP accreditation reassures your clients of your commitment to provide high-quality care in a safe environment.

Now available through distance learning Understanding anaesthetics is paramount to the comfort of our clients or patients and the medium to ensure this is topical anaesthetics. While there are regulatory restrictions in the use of topical anaesthetics it is imperative that every practitioner who delivers treatments such as skin needling, cosmetic tattoo, or uses devices such as fraxel or various levels of lasers gains a thorough scientific understanding of the different anaesthetics included in numbing creams, how they are metabolised in the body and ways to ensure the safety of their use on a case-by-case basis.

APAN is working closely with government regulatory bodies supporting the need for regulatory reform that better suits the aesthetics industry. While every practitioner must abide by their State regulatory requirements, this course can be of value to you to assist you in gaining a more in depth understanding of topical anaesthetics, their mechanism, safety considerations and contraindications.

In 2015 this course was conducted face-to-face however, there were numerous expressions of interest for the course to be made available through distance learning. We are pleased to offer the on-line version of it.

PART 1: INTRODUCTION TO THE SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS FOR COSMETIC PURPOSES The course is delivered by Compound Pharmacist Chris Testa, who is the owner and manager of Tugun Compounding Pharmacy, on the Gold Coast. Chris is also a highly respected lecturer on the topic of pharmaceutical compounding and the regulatory aspects of compounding which he delivers at the School of Pharmacy, Griffith University.

Learning Objectives include:

! An historical perspective ! A regulatory overview ! How topical anaesthetics work ! Different types of anaesthetics ! How topical anaesthetics are absorbed and metabolised ! Medication, supplements and

WHAT DO THE QIP SERVICES PROVIDE?

Support services include:

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Accreditation framework design.

Personalised accreditation and quality improvement support.

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Chris Testa B. Bus., B. Pharm.

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This course will qualify for Continued Education Points towards the new registration – APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner.

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Quality Innovation Performance Limited (QIP) provides support services in the areas of accreditation and quality improvement. QIP guides clients on their journey of quality improvement by providing accreditation support, training and educational services together with online resources.

Clients range from small health practices through to large corporations and government-funded organisations.

medical conditions that affect the use of topical anaesthetics Introduction to the advanced training course

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Medicare Local Accreditation Standards.

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QIP has a skilled workforce to support the eligible clinics to work towards accreditation against the:

A DV To register please visit E I S O RY N www.apanetwork.com and complete a Registration Form.

Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network Email: info@apanetwork.com | Phone: 07 5593 0360

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SETTING A BENCHMARK FOR A BETTER FUTURE One of the areas that APAN is highly committed to is in contributing to the drafting of regulations that affect our industry. Safety is paramount as is the assurance that health and industry standards of practice are met and adhered to. As an industry body APAN is constantly looking at ways to validate the credibility of its practitioners and their businesses in a way that supports their credibility and sustainability. The aesthetics industry is moving towards establishing updated regulations that identify and clearly define safety requirements and protocols.

However, as an industry we are responsible for establishing national codes. These include a Code of Ethics, a Code of Practice and ultimately a Scope of Practice. Additionally, the aesthetics industry is moving towards establishing a Registration Board to implement the required standards based on qualification.

THE LAUNCH OF A NEW TRADEMARK TM APAN has also secured a trademark – APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERTM. Under this Trademark APAN will aim to establish formal recognition of practitioners. Under this registration practitioners will need to provide evidence of their qualifications for the services they provide as well as commit in maintaining their currency through a Continued Educational Points program. Ultimately the objective of this classification is for aesthetic practitioners who specialises in dermal therapies, skin and age management, to be formally recognised as such under State and Federal governments and their regulatory bodies, as well as with the Australia Tax

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Policy and Procedure manual development and implementation.

Training and education.

Assistance in developing risk-management systems.

Clinical governance policy development.

Independent review services and project evaluation.

Education and training services to prepare for accreditation.

Gap-analysis reporting and quality-improvement planning.

Stakeholder analysis and engagement planning.

QIP is part of the AGPAL Group of Companies.

Give your business the competitive advantage through national standards recognition.

Office. Currently income and expenses for our industry are benchmarked under hair and beauty, which is not an accurate benchmark for our classification. This classification will further support APAN in pursuing a more accurate representation of this sector of the profession.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO PROGRAMS?

WHY BECOME ACCREDITED WITH THE QIP Quite simply the APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS SPECIALISED HEALTH SERVICES ACCREDITATION PRACTITIONERTM (ARAP) will verify the qualifications and PROGRAM? accredit the individual practitioner who practices within the As a service provider in the area of personal service this clinic or salon, while the QIP SPECIALISED HEALTH Accreditation Program will validate and demonstrate your clinic's SERVICES ACCREDITATION PROGRAM will accredit the commitment to the highest Quality and Safety Standards clinic or the practice. endorsed by your industry peak body to national standards.

Both these programs will elevate the status of the profession and T h e Q I P S P E C I A L I S E D H E A LT H S E RV I C E S establish a sound platform to enhance the credibility of the ACCREDITATION PROGRAM will offer you special profession, support on-going industry advancements and secure a recognition and set you apart from the crowd as the clinic of sustainable future for the industry and its practitioners. choice. While this program has been designed to suit eligible APAN member clinics, the whole accreditation process will be To find out more on the QIP HEALTH independently delivered by QIP. SERVICES ACCREDITATION PROGRAM

please contact APAN Ph: 07 5593 0360.

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MAKE SAFETY AND STANDARDS YOUR POINT OF DIFFERENCE

Get Recognition for the Highest Level of

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There is no doubt that consumers today look beyond discounting and value quality assurance for treatment outcomes and safety standards.

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Through a National and International Accreditation Program

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In collaboration with Quality Innovation Performance Limited (QIP) APAN is launching a new Clinic Accreditation Program –

QIP SPECIALISED HEALTH SERVICES ACCREDITATION PROGRAM QIP has a skilled workforce to support eligible clinics to work towards accreditation against the: · National Safety and Quality Health Service (NSQHS) Standards · Medicare Local Accreditation Standards

· · · ·

BENEFITS TO YOUR CLINIC AND PRACTICE: · Achieving QIP independent external Accreditation will reassure your client of your commitment to provide high

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quality care in a safe environment Set your business apart from the crowd through excellence in Safety and Standards Secure protocols for on-going best practice that you can be proud of for you and your team Engaging your whole team in the review of your clinic's systems and processes Assessing your clinic against a set of nationally recognised professional standards that focus on quality care and client safety Engaging your clinic in the continuous quality improvement journey

Here is your chance to achieve the ultimate recognition as your point of difference through the

QIP SPECIALISED HEALTH SERVICES ACCREDITATION PROGRAM Phone APAN today for further details 07 5593 0360.

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FIGS – The delicious fruit with benefits for SKIN AND HEALTH

by Tina Viney One of my very favourite fruits would have to be figs. They seem to be a very complete food that is a wonderful delicacy and very satisfying , so one or two is usually enough to provide a decadent and enjoyable experience even if they are only small.

As they are nutritionally dense I decided to investigate them further and was quite amazed at what I discovered on their nutritional benefit for health, but also on their benefit and use for the skin.

Figs are bell-shaped fruits with wrinkled and leathery skin. They are one of the sweetest fruits and also have a very delicate aroma.

They can vary in size, shape and colour. Figs are mainly classified by colour – white, black or red. Did you know that there are several varieties, the most popular being Black Genoa, Adriatic figs, Brown Turkey Mission, Calimyrna and Kadota.

INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT FIGS Figs are actually developed from inverted flowers called a syconium. The fig flesh is made from the matured flowers, which bloom inside the skin and are therefore never seen. Wild fig trees can survive up to 100 years and can grow as high as 100

feet. Their leaves release a pleasant, woodsy-green fragrance.

Some people dry the leaves and use them in perfume or in potpourri for their homes. Fig trees produce a natural latex sap that is also used for a number of practical and medicinal purposes.

Figs were so popular among the Greeks that there were even laws made to prevent exportation, and they're an essential element in the Mediterranean diet, which is one of the healthiest diets in the world. Aside from being an incredible source of dietary fibre, this curious fruit is delicious and filled with a number of essential vitamins and minerals.

Figs have a history as rich as their taste. Dating back as far as 5,000 B.C., the fig is said to be one of the first plants ever cultivated by humans. Archaeological findings in Neolithic villages revealed fossils of figs, predating other known forms of agriculture like wheat and barley. Figs are mentioned often in the Bible, as they were cultivated in many areas of the world where biblical events took place. They're sometimes represented as a sign of peace, abundance and prosperity.

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Figs are renowned for their sweet and juicy flesh, tender skin and crunchy seeds. They're highly perishable and are commonly dried to preserve them. And unlike many other fruits and vegetables, studies have shown that the health benefits of figs actually increase after drying.

FIGS NUTRITIONAL FACTS Figs are good for health because they contain many vital minerals and vitamins like vitamin A, vitamin B1, vitamin B2 and also include a variety of antioxidants and omega fatty acids. To understand why they are also good for the skin take a closer look at their nutritional profile. For example just 100 grams of raw figs (approximately 2 figs) contains approximately: 74 calories 19 grams carbohydrates 0.7 grams protein 0.3 grams fat 3 grams fibre 232 mg potassium (7 per cent daily value) 0.1 mg manganese (6 per cent DV) 4.7 mg vitamin K (6 per cent DV) 0.1 mg vitamin B6 (6 per cent DV) 17 mg magnesium (4 per cent DV) 35 mg calcium (4 per cent DV) 0.1 mg thiamine (4 per cent DV) 142 IU vitamin A (3 per cent DV) 2 mg vitamin C (3 per cent DV)

FRESH FRUIT VERSUS DRY Fresh figs contain trace amounts of several important nutrients, but their primary nutritional value comes from the amount of fibre, potassium and readily available energy they provide. For close to 80 calories, two large-sized fresh figs deliver nearly four grams of fibre, or 15 per cent of the recommended daily value.

They also supply 8 per cent of the daily value for potassium as well as 7 per cent each of the daily values for vitamins K and B-6.

Since figs aren't a significant source of protein or fat, nearly all of their calories come from carbohydrates. Two large figs have almost 25 grams of carbohydrates, most of which is in the form of the simple sugars glucose and fructose.

As more than 60 per cent of a fig's water content is removed by the drying process, dried figs are a more concentrated source of calories, nutrients and fibre than the fresh variety. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, a 1/2-cup serving of dried figs – or about nine fruits – supplies just under 190 calories, about 2.5 grams of protein, less than 1 gram of fat and 48 grams of carbohydrates. A 1/2 cup of dried figs also delivers 29 per cent of the daily value for dietary fibre, 14 per cent each of the daily values for vitamin K and potassium, 12 per cent each of the daily values for calcium and magnesium and 8 per cent of the daily value for iron.

Here is the comparison of the nutritional value of dried figs: When dried, the health benefits of figs increase, thus, 100 grams of dried figs contain about: 249 calories 63.9 grams carbohydrates 3.3 grams protein 0.9 gram fat 9.8 grams fibre 0.5 milligram manganese (26 per cent DV) 15.6 micrograms vitamin K (19 per cent DV) 680 milligrams potassium (19 per cent DV) 68 milligrams magnesium (17 per cent DV) 162 milligrams calcium (16 per cent DV)

0.3 milligrams copper (14 per cent DV) 2 milligrams iron (11 per cent DV) 67 milligrams phosphorus (7 per cent DV) 0.1 milligrams vitamin B6 (6 per cent DV) 0.1 milligrams thiamine (6 per cent DV) 0.1 mg riboflavin (5 per cent DV) 0.5 milligram zinc (4 per cent DV)

HEALTH BENEFITS Fresh or dried, figs are a significant source of both types of dietary fibre. Their soluble fibre contributes to satiety and promotes healthy blood sugar and cholesterol levels, while their insoluble fibre supports efficient digestion and bowel regularity.

The potassium in figs helps keep fluids and minerals balanced in and around cells and throughout your body, which is essential to normal nerve, muscle and heart function. Figs are an excellent source of readily available energy, since most of their calories come from simple sugars. These sugars are naturally occurring, however, and the soluble fibre they come packaged with helps slow the rate at which they're released into your bloodstream.

CONSIDERATIONS As we have seen, dried figs are higher in vitamins, minerals and dietary fibre than the fresh variety. Since they're also substantially higher in calories and sugar, individual portions should be kept relatively small. A 1/4-cup serving of dried figs is nutritionally comparable to a serving of two large fresh figs, providing about the same amount of calories, fibre and potassium. Avoid figs canned in syrup, as they're a source of added sugar, and therefore not recommended by the Heart Foundation.

FIGS AND THE SKIN A fig is not just a delicious and healthy fruit, but is a great natural ingredient for the care of the skin. As figs are rich in important nutrients such as Vitamins B and C as well as minerals such as phosphorus, potassium, calcium and magnesium, they offer benefits in boosting and rejuvenating the skin's health. The high omega 3 fatty acids in figs keep the skin well-moisturised and conditioned from within.

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Figs are loaded with antioxidants and dietary fibre, which make them an excellent natural laxative for the body. They aid in the removal of toxins and wastes from the body to support skin health and combat conditions such as acne and psoriasis, while boosting the skin health.

Figs can also offer benefits to the skin when applied topically.

Ground to a fine paste and blended with yoghurt they can

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provide a highly nutritious mask to assist in skin exfoliation, due also to their high enzyme content, as well as boosting moisture levels. The mask can be massaged into the skin gently for a few minutes, left on the skin for a further 15-20 minutes and then removed with warm water.

Because of their Vitamin C content figs also assist in lightening and evening out skin tone. Another excellent mask can be achieved by adding fig paste to powdered oatmeal and dried ginger powder. To this add a few drops of frankincense and chamomile essential oils. These essential oils are also effective against pigmentation. Not just the flesh, but also the peels of figs are beneficial because of their active enzyme properties.

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ANTI-WRINKLE CAPABILITIES There have been multiple studies using fig-leaf extract (combined with other fruits and alone) that have shown successful examples of anti-wrinkle properties. Studies are emerging that confirm the anti-ageing properties of fig extract used in skincare formulations with evidence that they can minimise collagenase activity due to their antioxidant activity.

Another study published in the Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences concluded that creams containing fig extract could also be used to help hyperpigmentation, acne and even freckles.

ANTIOXIDANT PROPERTIES Figs provide a huge service to the human body with their antioxidant capabilities. Because oxidation affects almost all body systems, the damage it causes has been linked to many major diseases, ageing and cancer.

Some types of figs have more than others, but most are rich in polyphenols, which help combat oxidative stress. These natural health boosters are located in the fruit, leaves, pulp and skin.

Studies also show that properly dried figs can be an even better source of phenolic compounds and have increased levels of antioxidant activity than their raw or improperly dried counterparts. This is probably why figs were revered throughout history; easily stored, dried figs could provide incredible health benefits for long voyages and dry climates that prevented access to fresh fruit.

Figs can act as a natural antibacterial and antifungal agent. A review by the Drug and Herbal Research Centre at the University of Kebangsaan in Malaysia cited two studies that showed fig extract's ability to combat a strand of oral bacteria, as well as various fungi and microbes.

Further studies have shown the effectiveness in figs' ability to stimulate immune-system response, thus making figs tremendous immune-system boosters. This may explain why figs are such great common-illness fighters, which are typically the work of bacteria and other invaders.

IN CONCLUSION Despite their high natural sugar content, figs used in moderation offer amazing benefits for overall health and also form skin improvement. As new studies confirm their benefits, we will start to see figs used in skincare, not just for their exotic and palatable aromatic appeal, but also for their therapeutic properties. In the meantime, figs can be appreciated and enjoyed as the delicious fruit that they are.

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Appel LJ, Moore TJ, Obarzanek E, et al. A clinical trial of the effects of dietary patterns on blood pressure.

DASH Collaborative Research Group. N Engl J Med. 1997 Apr 17;336(16):1117-24. 1997.

Canal JR, Torres MD, Romero A, Perez C. A chloroform extract obtained from a decoction of Ficus carica leaves improves the cholesterolaemic status of rats with streptozotocin- induced diabetes. Acta Physiol Hung 2000;87(1):71-6. 2000. PMID:13400.

Cho E, Seddon JM, Rosner B, Willett WC, Hankinson SE. Prospective study of intake of fruits, vegetables, vitamins, and carotenoids and risk of age-related m a c u l o p a t h y. A r c h O p h t h a l m o l . 2 0 0 4 Jun;122(6):883-92. 2004. PMID:15197064. de Amorin A, Borba HR, Carauta JP, et al.

Anthelmintic activity of the latex of Ficus species. J Ethnopharmacol 1999 Mar;64(3):255-8. 1999.

PMID:13410.

Ensminger AH, Esminger M. K. J. e. al. Food for Health: A Nutrition Encyclopedia. Clovis, California: Pegus Press; 1986. 1986. PMID:15210.

Ludwig DS, Pereira MA, Kroenke CH, et al. Dietary fiber, weight gain, and cardiovascular disease risk factors in young adults. JAMA 1999 Oct 27;282(16):1539-46. 1999.

Pasman WJ, Saris WH, Wauters MA, et al. Effect of one week of fibre supplementation on hunger and satiety ratings and energy intake. Appetite 1997 Aug;29(1):77-87. 1997.

Perez C, Canal JR, Campillo JE, et al.

Hypotriglyceridaemic activity of Ficus carica leaves in experimental hypertriglyceridaemic rats. Phytother Res 1999 May;13(3):188-91. 1999. PMID:13420.

Rubnov S, Kashman Y, Rabinowitz R, et al.

Suppressors of cancer cell proliferation from fig (Ficus carica) resin: isolation and structure elucidation. J Nat Prod 2001 Jul;64(7):993-6. 2001.

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Potassium citrate prevents urine calcium excretion and bone resorption induced by a high sodium chloride diet. J Clin Endo Metab 2002;87(5):2008-12.

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Serraclara A, Hawkins F, Perez C, et al. Hypoglycemic action of an oral fig-leaf decoction in type-I diabetic patients. Diabetes Res Clin Pract 1998 Jan;39(1):1922. 1998. PMID:13430.

Suzuki R, Rylander-Rudqvist T, Ye W, et al. Dietary fiber intake and risk of postmenopausal breast cancer defined by estrogen and progesterone receptor status-a prospective cohort study among Swedish women. Int J Cancer. 2008 Jan 15;122(2):403-12. 2008.

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Wood, Rebecca. The Whole Foods Encyclopedia.

New York, NY: Prentice-Hall Press; 1988. 1988.

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memberprofile their doctor for that, so the exposure to rosacea and other skin disorders was not that common. Today people come to see therapists to treat these conditions. The journey from the ’80s to now has certainly been a very interesting and exciting one.

APJ Q2: WHAT DROVE YOU TO FURTHER YOUR EDUCATION AND HOW HAS THAT CHANGED THE WAY YOU VIEW YOUR SERVICES? GAY: I have always been passionate about education and I thank my Ella Bache days for that. Back in the ’80s and 90s they were the leaders as far as education goes. The knowledge I gained from people like Linda Patterson, Catriona Pendleton and other educators was amazing and I would give up weekends freely to learn from them. So from the very beginning education was something I prioritised when working in this industry.

Owning your own business required that you attend She is not only a multi-award winner (having won over 14 awards), but also a highly respected educational events. This was industry luminary who is renowned for her kindness and generosity. Gay Wardle has so much one way of staying in touch to offer individuals through her training, as well as the industry at large. Her inspirational and connecting with other enthusiasm and passionate commitment to education have won her the respect and love of therapists and salon owners. many. While most know of Gay, this article will present in a little more detail about this When I was a distributor of a woman's incredible passion as we uncover what motivates her. As the very first APAN member skincare range I had to educate therapists that were using the since APAN was launched in June 2009, it gives us great pleasure to interview Gay and share products, so from there I with our readers her heart and her prediction about the industry. started attending all the conferences that I could to gain further knowledge. The APJ Q1: WHEN DID YOU START IN THIS INDUSTRY AND saying “the more you learn the more you realise what you do not WHAT WERE THE POPULAR SERVICES AT THAT TIME? know” is indeed so true. Education became a very strong passion GAY: I started way back in 1980. In those days we did a lot of of mine and this led to my decision to study for a degree in Dermal pedicures, manicures and waxing. We would strain the wax and Therapies at Victoria University. At the time I was travelling reuse it. I feel ill when I think about that now, but we did not know every week, as I had my own educational programs that I was any different – that was what was taught. The facial treatments teaching around Australia. I also owned a salon and I was we did were relaxation and if we caused any redness studying full-time for my degree. Lifestyle choices and quality (inflammation) to the skin you would freak out, unlike today sleep during that time were not on top of my list, but I was where creating inflammation is what we want to do. Back then determined and dedicated to education. women were obviously concerned about ageing as women do, but other than galvanic, high frequency and our hands we did not have How did study change my thinking? I once considered my the tools that are available today. I remember when glycol acids business to be a one-stop shop where a client could have her hit the market, it was like, wow! look what we can do. Companies waxing, tinting, massages, pedicures, manicures and skin marketed it as the wonder product that would slow down ageing, treatments all in the one place, but I don't think that way anymore. correct acne scarring and pigmentation. I was an Ella Bache salon Although we offer those services we have gravitated more to back then and it was taboo for an Ella Bache therapist to use corrective skin treatments and that is now my focus. Clients now glycolic acid, but we still managed to get our hands on it and hide are prioritising the issue of gaining improved results in their skin it under the counter. I cringe now when I think about all the skins and their appearance and that is what you have to give them, that I peeled to death with glycolic because there was no real otherwise they move elsewhere. education on how to use it or really what it was doing to the barrier function. We were just told apply and leave on for a certain I guess in my early days there was never a huge importance on amount of time and then neutralise. Now we are more educated spending time to conduct a thorough consultation and a skin and use AHAs correctly and they work well when applied and analysis. I now know how important that treatment (consultation) used in programs. is. I would never give anyone a treatment before they have a

Champion of Champions Profile of a Great Heart

thorough consultation, and that consultation covers the whole When I think about it, 25-30 years ago people did not really come body, you cannot just look at the skin and decide on a treatment to see a therapist if they had a skin condition, they mainly saw

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without knowing first what is going on internally. I always investigate and work with the immune system before any other treatment. Identifying deficiencies in the body such as any inflammation throughout the body can substantially compromise the end treatment results.

Furthering my education has given me the tools to be able to determine such issues and this has allowed me to achieve more serious results.

APJ Q3: CAN YOU SHARE WITH US A MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE THAT HAS IMPACTED ON YOU AND YOUR PASSION FOR YOUR WORK? GAY: The ability to change people's lives is incredible and that is what we do as therapists. When I owned a salon in Beenleigh (19 years ago), I became very involved in the local community and worked with a group of teenagers from Beenleigh High School that was across the road from the salon. These boys and girls (there was 15 of them) were considered dropouts if I can use that term. They were in Year 10 and were terminating their schooling as of that year and most of them were not going to pass. Their selfesteem was very low and they really did not care about anything. I was asked to work with them for three months, two hours a week, and teach them about grooming so that when they did leave they could present themselves at an interview and hopefully get a job.

Needless to say some of them had acne and girls wore so much caked-on makeup that was not at all appropriate for an interview.

My job was to teach the girls how to apply their makeup correctly and both boys and girls how to stand, sit and wear clean ironed clothes. I fell in love with these kids and they communicated with me so well that we got on like a house on fire. As a result, four of them finished in Year 12 and passed, one of them came to work for me and the others left school and got jobs. I still have occasional contact with three of them today and I would have to say that was one of the most rewarding experiences that I have had. I learnt so much from those kids and they learnt from me.

More recently, 18 months ago – I was in my clinic, my therapists were busy and running slight behind time, so I took a waiting client through for a facial wax. I asked her if she had ever considered IPL hair removal as she had a lot of hair on her neck and chin due to hormonal reasons. She said she had tried it and it did seem to help, but also she felt she could not afford it. My heart went out to her and I asked her if she would commit to regular treatments. I would charge her less than the cost of her waxing if she was willing to commit. She agreed and she did attend all the treatments booked for her. Nine months later I saw her again in the clinic and she gave me the biggest hug because she had been dancing with her husband he said to her “You are lifting your head and looking up at me, it makes me happy to see that”. Well I grabbed the tissue box. It gave me so much joy to know I could make such a difference to her self-esteem with this simple solution to her problem. That is why I love what I do because I am able to change lives and that is so rewarding.

APJ Q4: YOU ARE HIGHLY DEDICATED TO EDUCATING OTHERS, WHAT DO YOU HOPE TO BRING TO THEM THROUGH YOUR TRAINING? GAY: I love to see people achieve things that they never thought they could do and seeing how their businesses change. The different way they view skin and how they treat the skin is so exciting for both me and the therapists that I train. As I have firsthand experience of how rewarding this can be, it gives me so much joy to be able to empower others to do the same.

APJ Q5: WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS ABOUT THE FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY? GAY: I cannot wait for the day when we have complete regulations for our practices within the industry. It is needed so

badly and is long overdue. We have a duty of care to ensure both safety as well as the highest level of excellence in the outcomes we offer our clients – that is so important when working with the public. I believe that having regulations will ensure that this happens. I never imagined that we would have the privilege to work with equipment and the very active ingredients that we are working with today.

Often there is not sufficient training to help us fully understand the scope of what can be achieved with these technologies, especially with

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combined correctly with other modalities. When training is minimal we are finding that this often leads to operator error, and when this happens it brings down the reputation of our profession. Education is a must and should be a priority for every therapist if you want to stay at the top of your game.

I think that you will see that in years to come there will be a huge shift in the level of education that will be needed when operating advanced technologies. This education will include evidencebased research to allow us to better understand how they interact at a cellular level, especially as we are moving into more invasive technologies. I believe we are only just starting to see what can be achieved with the ever-improving new technologies.

Obtaining a university degree will probably be a necessity. I think we will find that the scope of who can practice what will be regulated by levels of qualification and not just training, just as we are seeing in other industries. Beauty therapists that lack education to support what they are doing will more than likely end up mainly doing low-end treatments and the more high-end treatments will be delivered by the degree-qualified person. If you think about its most professional industries now require a degree if they are to be permitted to do the leading services. I also see degree qualifications as being the qualification that most healthcare practitioners will recognise and trust with those who wish to interface with their services. This is just a matter of progress. Perhaps this will not happen immediately, but I believe the younger generation who are entering the industry will be required to achieve a new level of education.

APJ Q6: WHAT DO YOU LOVE THE MOST ABOUT YOUR WORK? GAY: The fact that I get to learn every day really inspires me and that there are so many enthusiastic and passionate therapists that want to make a difference in other peoples' lives makes our industry so special. Like I said, we can really change people`s lives and that is a gift that should be cherished. I get to regularly travel and meet so many wonderful therapists. I am so amazed that these individuals each day choose to inspire others, help improve their skin and support their self-esteem. How amazing?

APJ Q7: YOU HAVE WON MANY AWARDS. WHAT HAS THAT MEANT TO YOU?

GAY: It is fantastic to have recognition and very encouraging too. Clients love it when the place they have visited has won an award and also the team members love it. Apart from that they are great tools to use for marketing. People love visiting places that have won awards and they support you and tell their friends.

Furthermore, winning an award is a great reason to have a party and celebrate with your team, family and clients.

APJ Q8: WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? GAY: I want to continue educating therapists both here in Australia and overseas. I am not sure for how many more years but at least another seven years. I still own my salon – Skinology and maybe in the next few years I will end the era of being a salon owner. Some of my clients have been coming to me for 30 years so I am not quite sure how I will feel about that, but time will tell.

I need to keep studying so I will most likely work towards my PHD. I believe the direction I would like to pursue is in researching the role of how hormones affect the skin. I have started to write a book, which is fun. Oncology really interests me and I would like to do further studies in that area as well. I just want to have fun and enjoy every minute of this amazing journey while I can. I would love to have a team of educators all around Australia who can work with me so I will need to travel so much. All in all, I have to say I love the people I meet and I love this industry.

APJ Q9: HOW HAS APAN BENEFITED YOU AND YOUR BUSINESS? GAY: Everyone needs a mentor and I cannot tell you how blessed and very lucky I am to have Tina Viney as mine. Tina has always supported and helped me in what I do. She has been a great encouragement and put me back on track when I needed it.

There are moments when I have had to find solutions to challenges, and let's face it we all do. It is so comforting to know that she is there for me and together we find the answers. Tina works tirelessly for all of us. She is so committed in supporting the integrity of this industry and protecting us from losing the right to practise what we love. Tina is such a visionary and skilled in areas of governance, but at the same time a kind and caring individual. Most would not know of the endless hours she puts in behind the scenes. The on-going government meetings she attends and her continued hours of research that she does just to help create a better future for this industry.

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When owning a business it is very important to belong to an industry peak body that can support you professionally. For me APAN has been a very strong support in guiding me to determine my best course of action through expert advice and incredible industry experience. As an industry body their expertise in regulations, governance and education are unparalleled.

However, one of their key strengths is their ability to evaluate and establish innovative structures to support the future of the industry and to best represent its needs with the Government.

While APAN is heavily involved on a governance level, they also support the individual member and business on a personal level. You can access the best and most up-to-date advice on wages and HR issues, insurance, legal issues, and numerous professional services that APAN has secured for the benefit of its members. Additionally, with her extensive industry knowledge and experience, Tina is also able to offer independent credible advise to business owners on technical issues, such as why is a treatment not working, what are the best companies to access credible equipment, what training or education would best suit them to move forward? The organisation also offers consultation for sound business advice, regulatory compliance requirements as well as help with government funding for further training.

Over the years I have also found the articles in this journal so helpful. Each one of my team members read it as it has wonderful educational content. I am not quite sure where this industry would be without someone fighting hard for us. As I look at many other countries, beauty therapists are restricted to only doing basic treatments, without the right to use any of the advanced technologies. It is quite apparent that this is as a result that their professional bodies did not vouch or fight for them.

Here in Australia we will not have this problem. Tina has already won many battles for us and is continuing to do so. This lady is a huge industry icon and I cannot thank her enough for what she has done and is continuing to do for this industry.

If you wish to speak with her or to access her next training dates contact Gay Wardle on 0418 708 455 or 07 3208 9255 or email gay@skinology.com.au.

Everything you need to know about the SKIN 3 DAYS OF POWER-PACKED EDUCATION

Day 1: Back to Basics Day 2: Advanced Skin Anatomy Day 3: Skin Disorders Professionals working with skin anatomy must remain on a relentless journey of lifelong learning to ensure that they continually equip themselves with the knowledge and skills that are required to deliver and perform current and cutting edge treatments. Gay Wardle's workshops and courses are designed to provide the participant with this knowledge and these skills. Education is the key to confidence in treatment planning, delivery and successful results for the client!

Day 1: Cell Biology, Cell Nutrition, Skin Anatomy (Transferring your knowledge of cell nutrition, cell biology and skin anatomy to design effective treatment plans).

Day 2: Ageing skin, acne, pigmentation, Immune system, Impact of hormones on the skin and much more.

Day 3: Rosacea, hyper-proliferative disorders, DNA disorders

Cost: 1 Day $350 2 Days $590 3 Days $780 TRAINING DATES SYDNEY: 11th, 12th & 14th July ADELAIDE: 25th, 26th July and 14th September MELBOURNE: 8th, 9th & 10th August GOLD COAST 21st, 22nd and 23rd November

Book on-line: www.gaywardle.com.au Phone: 0418 708 455 Email: gay@m-da.com.au

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Gay is an independent trainer and educator who loves sharing her knowledge and skills through advanced education on the skin. Her training assists businesses achieve better treatment outcomes and successfully address more challenging skin conditions. There will be absolutely no promotion of any skincare or equipment brands during these courses.

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Scientific studies reveal natural supplement can protect against Skin Cancer An interview with Dr Michael Freeman Recently a ground-breaking Australian clinical study was published in the New England Journal of Medicine. The study was funded by the National Health and Medical Research Council (NHMRC) and showed promise that taking an oral vitamin-B3 derivative, nicotinamide, may prevent non-melanoma skin cancers in high-risk patients.

Dr Michael Freeman is a highly respected dermatologist and Associate Professor of Dermatology at Bond University in Queensland and also a member of the Skin Cancer Foundation.

We caught up with him to gain further information about results of this study.

APJ Q1: Dr Freeman, can you tell us what is the difference between niacin and nicotinamide as they are both B3 vitamins?

Dr Freeman: This is a good question. Niacin is a water-soluble form of Vitamin B3. Vitamin B3 is found in many foods, including yeast, meat, fish, milk, eggs, green vegetables, beans

and cereal grains. Niacin is also found in many vitamin B complex supplements with other B vitamins.

In our bodies, some niacin is converted to nicotinamide, and some nicotinamide is converted to an extremely important and versatile compound called NAD. NAD is important in part because it is the "de-enabler" molecule that helps repair UVinduced DNA damage responsible for immunosuppression in the skin. Nicotinamide is the amide of nicotinic acid. Although niacin and nicotinamide are identical in their vitamin functions, nicotinamide does not have the same pharmacological and toxic effects that niacin has. Nicotinamide is also the more active form of vitamin B3 and that is important. While nicotinamide can be found in food such as beer or Vegemite, it is better taken as a supplement. For example, you will need to eat four jars of Vegemite to get the appropriate daily dose.

APJ Q2: There is some very interesting research findings on the role of nicotinamide in preventing skin cancer.

Can you share this information with us?

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Dr Freeman: Both Dr Gary Halliday and Dr Diona Damian, a team from the University of Sydney at the Royal Prince Alfred Hospital, funded by the National Health and Medical Research Council, conducted a double-blind, randomised, controlled trial with 386 participants who had at least two non-melanoma skin cancers in the previous five years. They were given 500 mg of nicotinamide twice daily or a placebo for a 12-month intervention period. Participants were evaluated by dermatologists at three-month intervals for 18 months.

The primary end point was the number of new nonmelanoma skin cancers (i.e. basal-cell carcinomas plus sqamous-cell carcinomas) during the 12-month intervention period.

Secondary end points included the number of new squamouscell carcinomas and basal-cell carcinomas and the number of actinic keratoses during the 12-month intervention period, the number of nonmelanoma skin cancers in the six-month postintervention period, and the safety of nicotinamide.

At the end of the 12 months it was noted that a 23% lower rate of nonmelanoma skin cancers with subjects who were on nicotinamide than with the placebo. Nicotinamide has been shown to have protective effects against damage caused by UV radiation and to reduce the rate of new premalignant actinic keratoses.

APJ Q3: In terms of oral consumption what dose of nicotinamide should one take and can one get the same benefit on the skin if nicotinamide is included as an ingredient in skincare products?

Dr Freeman: The research has validated that the results were achieved with 500 mg of nicotinamide taken twice a day. The study was conducted with Blackmore's Insolar, but I believe there are other brands as well that contain nicotinamide. To come to the second part of your question regarding topical application of nicotinamide, while it is helpful it would not be as effective.

For example, by applying it on the skin you could miss a section.

Through oral supplementation you will get a better supply to the mitochondria, however, by applying it topically there will not be as much reservoir in the skin to be as effective. Also, if you are taking it orally you will not need to also include topical applications.

APJ Q4: Exactly how does nicotinamide work on the skin to prevent skin cancer?

Dr Freeman: It has been proven that nicotinamide reduces immuno-suppression activity that is induced by UV radiation.

As we know the Krebs cycle involves a series of chemical reactions used by all aerobic organisms to generate energy, and this is important to many biochemical pathways to establish cellular metabolism that takes place inside mitochondria. These chemical reactions support cell repair by assisting cell damage to repair quickly. Nicotinamide supports these immune cells, thereby reducing the immuno-suppression.

APJ Q5: In terms of skin-cancer prevention are the current standard precautionary measure of using sunscreen to protect the skin still relevant, or does taking nicotinamide minimise the risk of skin cancer sufficiently on its own?

Dr Freeman: While nicotinamide offers great protection

against the advancement of skin cancer, it is important that a comprehensive strategy of using various sun-protective measures be continued. In other words the "slip, slop, slap" approach still needs to be practised. To better understand how nicotinamide works, imagine spilling milk on the floor. If you quickly proceed to mop and soak up the damage you can get a good result, but if you leave the milk on the floor for a week then try to mop it up it is more challenging. Nicotinomide is like that – it can help at the time of injury, especially when taken morning and night. However, it is mainly beneficial as a preventative measure and should be combined with other preventative approaches such as the use of sunscreen and appropriately covering up. While nicotinamide can minimise the damage, sunscreen is still needed to optimise protection. What we do know is that there is proven evidence that nicotinamide can reduce damage by 23%, however, don't assume that you are bomb-proof by using it alone.

APJ Q6: Are there any further research studies that have identified other nutrients that can support the body against skin cancer?

Dr Freeman: I am not aware of any, but I am aware of studies that can prove the opposite. For example there is evidence that fruit in the citrus category can actually accentuate sun damage.

Also celery juice and parsley can also photosensitise the skin.

For this reason for anybody with significant sun damage it is best that you avoid these during the day if you are going out in the sun and consume them at night when you will be going to bed.

APJ Q7: Has nicotinamide been proven to benefit other skin conditions or just sun damage?

Dr. Freeman: There are other dermatological applications that have benefited from the use of nicotinamide. For example, bullous pemphigoid is a skin disease characterised by blisters on the surface of the skin. Occasionally, the inner lining tissue of the mouth, nasal passages or conjunctivae of the eyes (mucous membrane tissue) can be involved. The condition is caused by antibodies and inflammation abnormally accumulating in a particular layer of the skin or mucous membranes. This is an auto-immune disease and nicotinamide will allow the skin to repair faster and help minimise the amount of blistering with this condition. It is also beneficial with other conditions such as acne.

ABOUT DR MICHAEL FREEMAN - F.A.C.D Dermatologist / F.R.A.C.G.P. / Laser Specialist / MBBS. (Qld) Dr Michael Freeman is the principal Dermatologist at The Skin Centre, on the Gold Coast specialising in Cosmetic and Laser Dermatology. He has more than 30 years' experience in the medical field. In addition to his position at The Skin Centre, he is the Director of Dermatology at the Gold Coast Hospital, a visiting Dermatologist at the Princess Alexandra Hospital in Brisbane, and is an Associate Professor of Dermatology at Bond University.

He is also a member of the Skin and Cancer Foundation of Queensland and an international member of the American Academy of Dermatology.

Dr Freeman holds several more credits to his name, including lead investigator in more than a dozen clinical trials, and educator for other Dermatologists in the use of specialised lasers.

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salonbusiness

How To Consistently Hit Retail Targets

by Caroline Nelson As a service-based industry we often neglect the powerful value to our clients of our recommended take-home products.

These will not only ensure a more harmonious synergy with what we are trying to achieve in the salon or clinic, but it will also establish a further link for loyalty, not to mention business growth.

If you are struggling with this area of your business, this article by business coach Caroline Nelson aims to help you gain a shift in mentality and to offer you ways that you can move your business forward.

If hitting and even exceeding retail targets is something you can only dream about then you must read this article. Skincare and cosmetic sales are a multi-billion-dollar industry so it would be a real shame if your business was not getting its fair share of this revenue.

That having been said we have to face the reality that in recent years the professional beauty industry as a whole has seen an eroding of retail sales. We have always had to contend with bigbag department stores, chemists and the neighbourhood Mary

Kay and Avon ladies. Then we had the online onslaught that just keeps getting bigger and bigger. First was the Strawberry.com type sites, now even our old adversaries Myer and David Jones have cosmetic shop online sites. In addition there are companies like L'OrĂŠal who spend millions of dollars on advertising and marketing campaigns luring with promises of the latest breakthrough in biotechnology to achieve even better results.

On the face of it the competition is very tough, however, we have one very big advantage and that is we have the clients’ attention for quite a considerable time during their visit with us. Having this attention means our 'message' about our professionalstrength retail products doesn't have to get through the advertising and marketing clutter, it can instead go straight from our mouth to our client's ear. But do clients always receive the full message, the right message, or even any message about the products you stock? Unfortunately, often not. Part of the reason is the extremely outdated "my client is here to relax" attitude many therapists have, and have been too comfortable in using this approach as an excuse.

Excuses aside, if this advantage is not being capitalised on, then whose fault is it? As business owners we need to stop passing the

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buck. It doesn't matter if the problem goes all the way back to lack of training at beauty college, the skincare supplier not providing sufficient education on the use of their products, the attitude of the employee, or even you as the business owner. It is what it is, accept it, but commit to change. If you want your business to hit retail targets then it will be you, the business owner or manager, who has to drive the sales, and to do this effectively and profitably will require a retail-selling system and ongoing sales training.

WHY BOTH LEGS ARE NEEDED Aesthetic businesses receive sales or revenue from two areas – service and retail sales. Each support the other, but are two different, but equally important areas. The sole purpose of a salon, spa, or clinic is to help clients attain their own 'personal best' in regards to grooming and skin health. This means a twoprong approach of in-house treatment and take-home products.

It's the only way to guarantee clients the results they are paying for and the benefits your business should be providing.

Without a retail-selling system retail products invariably stay on the display shelves looking pretty and gathering dust. They will not sell themselves, mainly because the vast majority of clients think of us as only the service providers. And whose fault is that?

This means your business needs to have a very focused retail area supported by high level of consultation and analysis, as well as dedicated trained staff to educate their clients. Remember, while the products stay on the shelf, no matter how good they are, they will not benefit your clients' skin, or your business profits. Retail -selling systems are created to get the products off the shelf and home with the client. That's why we call them homecare products.

Do you or your staff have a negative attitude towards selling? Do you or your staff believe that you are professional service or treatment providers and not salespeople? Nothing could be further from the truth. From day one every therapist must realise that selling retail skincare is part of their job description and is part of their client 'duty-of-care' to their clients. Explain to them that your business consists of two departments. The service department, which will require them to perform expert and skilled treatments, and the retail department that will require them to provide expert prescriptive recommendation and completion (or closing) of the sale.

THE IMPORTANCE OF QUALITY MERCHANDISING Merchandising is a critical part of the retail-selling system that needs to be dynamic and eye-catching so as to gain clients' attention, and it needs to highlight relevance to your clients’ skincare needs. Use shelf talkers and group skincare collections in a way that provide 'solutions' for specific skin conditions, and keep all displays current and fresh, because an old display will be as stagnant as the sales they don't inspire.

Apart from good merchandising sometimes a brand will just not do well. It may have in the past achieved good retail sales, but gradually sales have declined. Or the business owner may have chosen the wrong brand in the first place because it is one they are personally familiar with. To determine this, the question that should be asked is "are these products what my clients want?"

Could they be bored with the brand, or do these products no longer meet their needs, or has the product never fitted the client demographic in the first place? Consumers needs change and sometimes to meet these needs a new brand is necessary,

particularly if the current stocked brand has met its "Use By" date in your customers' view.

Today's client expects real measurable results, quickly. They are not prepared to wait but expect immediate visible results often with just one treatment. Fortunately for us there are now numerous professional-strength skincare ranges that can deliver just that. Choose a brand that provides a professional range that is more intensive than the clients' take-home products. The professional treatment must provide results that can only be obtained through in-salon treatments and meet with clients' goals and expectations. If this doesn't happen it will be difficult, if not impossible to convince them of the need to purchase homecare products. Homecare is designed to maintain professional treatment results, not to be in place of.

WHAT YOUR RETAIN SELLING SYSTEM SHOULD INCLUDE Part of the retail-selling system should be the weekly sales meeting. During this meeting, apart from current promotions, "Product of the Month" and sales targets, the next week's client treatment-solution plans should be discussed and strategies agreed upon. Each team member comes with that week’s client cards to the meeting and needs to be prepared to outline their recommendations for the treatment and homecare. By sharing with other team members each will gain valuable information on how to ensure 'personal best' results for their clients. This is a great method to keep staff on-track and focused, and is a huge support and help for any new therapist.

I also recommend a minimum of four VIP events per year. These will be great sales generators and not only attract new clients and develop client loyalty, but they also keep your team motivated.

Events work best with high-level supplier support, including a representative in attendance. This promotes higher brand awareness and support for their product range and your business.

In addition suppliers should be supporting the business with product-knowledge workshops, in-house power-training sessions, Skype training and staff sales incentives.

Consistently hitting retail targets need not just be a dream.

However, it will require commitment on your part and on-going training for your team, but the sales results will be well and truly worth the time and effort. Happy Selling! © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2016

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specialises in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com.

Phone 0410 600 440

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qualification last year with BTTA. Thrilled with the extra confidence it gave her she immediately took up the opportunity to ensure that one of her beauty therapists, Teyneal Frazer, took advantage of this offer and expanded her current skills to include IPL and Laser hair-reduction services. This is what Teyneal shared with us:

Q1. Teyneal, tell us about your training experience with BTTA?

How BTTA is helping businesses grow This year Beauty Therapy Training Australia (BTTA) is forging ahead with renewed energy. Having successfully gained government funding through the Industry Skills Fund Project that was secured through APAN, the college is busy training existing salon and clinics and their staff with two key government-approved qualifications:

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SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction – theory and practical training including full hours to competency levels for this qualification and also full licensing.

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NAT10038 Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies – theory and practical for skin rejuvenation, vascular, pigmentation and tattoo removal.

It also includes the appropriate licences and the nominal or indicative face-to-face hours pertaining to these practices, which are quite different to hair reduction.

A RELIEF FOR MANY BUSINESS OWNERS “It is so rewarding seeing business owners gaining great joy and relief as their staff improve their skills and knowledge to a full government-approved qualification level," Angie Todd, principal of BTTA, stated.

"Furthermore, our training also includes the necessary State licences and the indicative hours that are necessary to secure these licences. We don't just deliver training to qualification standards and then leave the student stranded without the ability to start working as they now need to also complete the necessary hours to also secure their State licences," Angie confirmed.

"This has been such a relief for businesses, knowing that their staff have met all the regulatory requirements to commence their treatments straight away."

I had no previous knowledge or training on IPL or laser, however, I was very keen to add it to my current skills and believed that it was best to start with the best training that I could find, so I decided to go for a full qualification. Julie, my boss, also encouraged me to do this, so when the funding opportunity came up I was delighted to be accepted under Maxwell's application.

So far I am impressed with the standards of theory that I am required to learn before I was allowed to proceed with the practical component of the training. Even though the theory has been challenging at times, I appreciate that I need to understand the physics first before starting my practical training. Angie, who is currently delivering the practical training with me, is very patient, stepping me through my training at a pace that allows me to fully comprehend what I am doing and I really appreciate that.

She is very thorough and knowledgeable trainer and her communication with me is straight-forward, but also detailed.

The place of her training is very much geared to my learning capabilities and this allows me to fully understand the various elements of this procedure so that I can move forward confidently. I also love the fact that the college is committed to accommodate flexible learning as much as possible. This has really benefited me as I am currently also employed, so I have to fit my face-to-face training with my work duties and hours.

Q2. How do you believe this training will benefit your career and support your current employment at Maxwell's Skin and Body?

On a personal level, furthering my qualifications is very exciting and a huge plus for me. I have always had an interest in hair removal and always wanted to move into Laser and IPL training.

I have been watching Julie perform these treatments so I have gained a real appreciation of these procedures and also a level of understanding of the benefits of this service and the various techniques I need to master. My theoretical training has helped me understand how light impacts with the cells, the purpose of the various frequencies, the importance of getting the settings right and choosing the right filters for the client. By achieving my qualifications as well as my licence this will allow Maxwell’s to grow their business as I will be competent to undertake these procedures with a level of confidence that this training will offer me. I am very grateful for this opportunity and excited about the future.

This funding has been a welcome relief to salons and clinics who have been able to meet the merit criteria and secure this funding. But what about the students, what are they saying about their training with BTTA?

If you are interested in upgrading your skills to qualification levels please contact BEAUTY THERAPY TRAINING AUSTRALIA on 07 55 590 889 or email contact@beautytherapytraining.com.au

We caught up with Teyneal Frazer from Maxwell's Skin and Body in Main Beach on the Gold Coast. Her employer Julie Maxwell, although she had over a decade of experience in laser and IPL, also decided to complete her government-approved

We offer a variety of accredited as well as non-accredited training to enable you to improve your treatment outcomes and grow your business.

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apanstory and health science across for the benefit of our industry?" This fuelled her mission to identify ways to elevate the status of the profession. From there on, her focus changed as she moved and specialised in the area of governance.

In 1994, together with her husband Mark, Tina approached the University of New England to develop a university degree. Their aim was to introduce a pathway for beauty therapists who wished to expand their knowledge in skin and health science to do so through a formal tertiary degree qualification.

At that time, laser skin resurfacing was becoming very popular in Australia and doctors were approaching beauty therapists to refer their clients to them. However, in many cases these clients continued with the cosmetic or plastic surgeon at the expense of the therapist who referred them. Something needed to change.

Further investigation identified that doctors did not trust a beauty therapist's knowledge on the skin, wound healing or even in skin diagnosis and treatment. The common message that resonated from numerous meetings with doctors was that the level of science that defined a beauty therapist's education was not comprehensive enough and could not be compared to a nurse’s. It was clearly evident that the profession could benefit from a tertiary degree qualification or clients would ultimately seek to continue their treatments with a cosmetic medical clinic.

Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

After 12 months of negotiating the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Aesthetic Therapies) was introduced as the first degree with a stream specifically for the aesthetics industry in the world.

Unfortunately, this degree is no longer on offer, however, other universities saw the opportunity and today we have two degrees specifically designed for the industry – the Bachelor of Health Science (Dermal Therapies) at Victoria University and the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) at the Australasian College of Health and Wellness in Sydney as well as Advanced Diplomas that offer advanced qualifications.

Celebrating 50 years in Aesthetics This year Tina Viney celebrates 50 years in the aesthetics industry having gained her original qualifications in 1966. She also went on to further her education in business management and administration that led to a position overseas in Foreign Affairs with the Australia Embassy, which she held for four years.

Despite this her interest in beauty therapy did not waver. Further studies in various modalities including Clinical Aromatherapy, Acupuncture and Medical Aesthetics allowed her to continue to grow her knowledge in this profession.

Over the years Tina has received several industry Awards for her services to the industry and in March 2014 she was also presented with an international Award in Hong Kong presented by the International Professional Standards Network in recognition of "the outstanding and significant contribution for the betterment of the aesthetics industry". Tina was the overall winner for Beauty representing Australia, while a further eight awards were presented to finalists from other countries, including South Africa, New Zealand, Hong Kong, Canada and Japan.

On her return to Australia in 1976 Tina resumed further studies, established her own business and eventually was invited to take on a teaching position with a leading Beauty Therapy college in Western Australia. Teaching became her passion and she continued to teach for 17 years.

As the CEO of APAN Tina works tirelessly identifying pathways that can benefit the reputation and progress of the industry. Her focus is firmly directed at ways to improve the skills and knowledge of the aesthetics professional through formal education. She works closely with government regulatory bodies, medical societies, educational providers and institutions to negotiate best training and education outcomes, government funding in support of business growth, marketing and business development strategies that will best support the industry. Her ultimate goal is to enhance the industry's reputation and credibility while achieving a more sustainable future. The fusion between her qualifications in business, aesthetics and her tertiary studies have provided her with valuable skill sets to offer the industry much needed leadership support and direction.

In 1981 while still teaching she also enrolled to pursue a medical degree with the University of WA. Unfortunately, due to family reasons her studies were interrupted after 18 months. Meanwhile, this experience sparked a renewed love affair with aesthetics as she identified the potential for the profession to expand its scope of services and provide a great deal more for the consumer. But to achieve this, a higher level of education would be needed.

"I looked across at what I had learnt at university and thought -why can't we bring this amazing knowledge in critical thinking

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APAN was launched in May 2009 just seven years ago this May. In a short time the organisation has established its mark as the leading body providing leadership direction to an ever-changing industry. Its on-going relentless pursuit in communicating the industry's needs with the Government have also earnt it the recognition as Australia's peak body representing the Aesthetics industry.

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In some respects APAN is an out of the box style organisation. It is a private company that takes all the elements and responsibilities of a not-for-profit Association, but with a fresh, new approach, while still maintaining the same commitment of putting the members' needs first over any financial gain.

APAN operates with a modern-style business model that appears to be functioning more efficiently than the traditional association model. The evidence of this in the amazing progress and achievements it has accomplished in such a short time. The organisation's success is attributed to the flexibility of its structure that allows it to make quality key decisions and implement resolutions more efficiently and in a timely manner. This coupled with the combined industry experience of over 73 years of its directors enables the organisation to draw on sound industry knowledge and expertise.

On the occasion of Tina Viney's 50th year in the aesthetics industry I caught up with the two directors – Mark and Tina Viney – to explore how APAN came about, and capture a little about their intriguing story, what the organisation hopes to achieve and what benefits it aims to secure for the aesthetics industry.

Mark Viney is a qualified educator. He holds a Bachelor's Degree in Fine Arts and post-graduate qualifications in education as well as qualifications in IT. He specialty is in taking difficult topics and simplifying them for learners. In fact, he was responsible for setting up Special Education Units in private colleges for students with learning challenges and held lead-teacher positions at several schools at which he taught.

Mark's degree in Fine Arts has taken him to both Europe and the US where he lectures on Aboriginal Rock Paintings at several universities.

Over the past 23 years Mark has worked closely with Tina and the aesthetics industry and has a strong understanding of the dynamics that make up this industry. As the Managing Director of APAN he regularly speaks with members and helps them with standards and educational issues as well technical issues pertaining to their computers and IT equipment.

While he completed one of his degrees at RMIT in Melbourne, and his Education Degree at Darwin Univirsity, Mark, who is originally from Darwin, has a real heart for businesses that are located in remote regions. He understands their challenges and wants to provide pathways for their learning. As a result he is developing short half-day and full-day courses on staff development as well on-line correspondence courses to assist regional practitioners and businesses gain valuable knowledge without having to undergo the expense of travel and accommodation to main cities – an expense that may be outside of their financial capabilities, particularly if they have to travel regularly.

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This year Mark has launched his first course – Understanding GenYs – How to successfully employ them and the secret of securing them as loyal clients. This was a four-hour training program and he presented this program in Adelaide as well as Darwin. These were a great success as businesses learnt how to understand the mindset of this age group and how to work more productively with them. Mark believes that each generation has different values, different cultures and different points of references. By understanding the values and mindset of each generation businesses can achieve better communication

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outcomes and greater productivity in both relationships and business. Mark plans to visit other regions to deliver this lecture and other topics that he will be developing this year. If you are interested in attending one of these events please complete an Expression of Interest Form on the APAN website: www.apanetwork.com

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APAN HEAD OFFICER SERVICE PROVIDERS It is always great putting a face to a name, especially if you have spoken to them at various times. APAN has a small group of special individuals who are part of the organisation. They are all caring and gifted individuals who help create a wonderful work environment and bring their brand of genius to the organisation. Here they are: MARGARET WHITAKER Customer Relations As a previous owner of several salons Margaret is familiar with the realities of salon businesses. She later was a director of a finance company, which she owned and conducted business for several years. Her strengths lie in customer relations. Margaret contacts APAN members to welcome them when they join and is responsible for customer relations within APAN and also conducts other administration duties.

LYNETTE ROUSE Brand Developer Ly n e t t e h o l d s a Bachelor's Degree in Health Science and is currently finalising her Masters in Business majoring in Marketing.

Lynette also holds qualifications in aesthetics and has extensive experience in business having owned her own spa. She is a highly respected educator and has national and international qualifications in Laser and IPL. Within APAN Lynette is involved as brand development manager. She assists in establishing marketing plans for the various projects within the organisation, including social media.

VANESSA KIRKHAM Financial Controller/Accounts Vanessa is a qualified accountant and a registered tax agent.

She has extensive experience with accounting services having worked for large organisations, associations as well as the Taxation Office. Vanessa is currently the Financial Controller of the Government funded initiative that APAN has secured through the Industry Skills Fund and also provides other financial services within the organisation. Vanessa holds a Diploma in Applied Health Science (Beauty Therapy) and has also worked as a therapist with a large spa retreat prior to her finalising her accounting qualifications. She is therefore familiar with the industry and its needs.

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WHAT MOTIVATED YOU AND GAVE YOU THE INSPIRATION TO SET UP APAN AND WHY DID YOU CHOOSE A DIFFERENT MODEL TO A TRADITIONAL ASSOCAITION? Tina: Having worked within the traditional Association model for 16 years I realised the amazing benefits an industry can gain through a strong representative body that could champion its cause, its direction and achievements.

I am a strong believer in the value of Associations and believe they can achieve so much in helping an industry and its members. However, for Associations to be a success they have to function at a very organised business level and not just an a small club. The only way they can benefit an industry is to introduce at a corporate level initiatives that will benefit its members and the industry at large, develop specific projects to help secure better standards, greater recognition with consumers and support the growth of stronger, more successful businesses.

Having a clear strategic plan and sticking to it without political undercurrents are key issues to their success. However, many Associations have failed because they have experienced challenges in these areas. They lost their focus on representing the interests of their members, rather than being absorbed by their own importance.

Traditional associations also rely very much on volunteers to get projects off the grown. While this model worked in the past, in today's competitive and fast-paced world this model does not work anymore. Opportunities are missed and with volunteers it is difficult to maintain momentum, or to guarantee outcomes within a timely manner. For this reason many Associations have under-achieved for their members and either withered to insignificance or disappeared from the professional landscape.

The idea of establishing APAN was not mine. It was driven by many within the industry who urged me to find a way to continue to support them after I had left another Association, as I no longer felt I could relate to their direction. Integrity is a very important issue for me – I need to believe 100% in whatever I undertake. I would have to say the passion of others who believed and looked to me was very much the driving force that led me to establish APAN. I also felt I still had a lot more to offer the industry. The thought of helping others achieve greater success excited me. From the beginning APAN has never been about Mark or me, it has always been about the welfare of others, that's what motivates us. APAN is just an instrument that exists to help facilitate the industry prosperity, foster its professional status and grow its recognition. When we have achieved what we can I do hope that we can pass on the baton to others who can take the vision further and achieve more through this vehicle.

CAN YOU SHARE WITH US APAN'S CORE VALUES AND HOW THEY ARE REFLECTED IN YOUR INITIATIVES? Tina: APAN's core values are very important to us and are always at the forefront of what we do. They are: > Innovation – We are very proactive and innovative in creating platforms for growth for the industry. > Guidance – The industry may have many voices (particularly through social media) so they don't need another opinion. However, they do need wisdom and guidance in identifying their safest and best options. > Integrity – Without integrity in what we stand for and what we do we will be standing on shaky ground and have no guarantees for a stronger future. We don't just provide a Code of Ethics for others – we LIVE by it, even if at times it cost us financially. > Sustainability – Novel ideas are great, but at the end of the day they need to contribute to a more sustainable future for the good of the individual, for the environment, the future of the profession and the business enterprise.

When we develop new initiatives and programs we always go back to ensure they reflect our core values. In that way our message can be strong and in sync with our purpose.

WHAT IS APAN'S KEY FOCUS AND WHAT IS ITS POINT OF DIFFERENCE? Mark: The main point of difference is our structure. It is the fundamental reason why we are able to achieve what we have in such a short time. As a private business entity we can learn from the past and plan for the future. Our management board is just the two of us, Tina and me. Each week we have meetings, make decisions and act on them.

Meanwhile we do consult with other experts and we also have an external National Advisory Council that we pass our projects through and gain their wisdom and professional recommendations to ensure that we are on track.

I am very much a believer in accountability and transparency as this is an essential element to credibility. However, I am not in favour of big Boards as they can be

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contentious and into their own importance. APAN is about its members, we are hard working, but not top-heavy. We value the opinion of our members and we take them seriously.

Our focus is to see what others don't see and to prepare the industry to stay one step ahead of change. When we look at other countries where the aesthetics industry has lost recognition, respect and the right to practise certain modalities it has all come down to a lack of leadership. No Association or industry body fought for their rights and so many procedures are now only allowed to be performed by doctors.

While great ideas are wonderful, they amount to nothing if they remain disjointed opinions that are not directed towards a positive outcome. That is the responsibility of an industry body or an Association. They have a duty of care to their members to pursue their interests as a collective voice representing their industry. This is not an easy task and requires a lot of work, patience and skill, not to mention money.

While APAN is taking this responsibility seriously it is important that the industry supports us and reaches out to us with their needs and recommendations. We need to understand that governments don't act on individual opinions for policy making, they look to industry bodies, so don't try to fight these battles on your own.

APAN's point of difference is that we study what is needed, identify what the industry is crying out for and then go out to do something about it.

HOW DO YOU GAIN INDUSTRY FEEDBACK IN ASSISTING YOU TO DEVELOP NEW INITIATIVES? Mark: As we have said before the real stars in APAN are not the directors, but the industry itself. We conduct conference calls, we send out questionnaires, we talk to members one-on-one daily. APAN also has several social medial platforms and communities – one for IPL/Laser, one for Cosmetic Tattooing and a general one.

We love community interactions so that we can identify the burning issues that concern you. As our offices are centrally located we also regularly conduct private meetings where members will visit us and discuss their concerns. Some even come from other States to have a face-to-face meeting with us. Additionally, we support physical networks through our educational training seminars and our conference programs. We are the only organisation in our industry that conducts three conferences a year in three different cities. These events provide commercially independent professional development education and a wonderful opportunity for members to interact with us and give us their feedback, both verbally and through feedback forms.

IN THE NEARLY SEVEN YEARS THAT YOU HAVE BEEN ESTABLISHED WHAT HAVE YOU ACHIEVED? Tina: There are numerous exciting achievements that we have established – too many to discuss here, however, what we would like to assure the industry is that there are many tangible benefits such as services and strategic alliance partners that we have secured for our members that they can benefit from when they join as members. However, there are also the intangibles that are critical in shaping the industry. There are numerous behind the scenes activities – assessing data, evaluating needs, identifying industry weaknesses and then developing strategies platforms and initiatives to mitigate them. On a corporate level there is much work to be done behind the scenes, and while sometimes they are overwhelming, they are also very exciting because they contribute to positive change. We are committed to this and that is our strength and our point of difference. Recently a government official said that APAN is the Aesthetic Industry's Guardian and we believe that is a good title.

YOU HAVE THREE EXCITING NEW PROGRAMS THAT YOU ARE LAUNCHING THIS YEAR. WHAT ARE THEY AND WHY ARE THERE THREE? Tina: This year we are launching three major new initiatives that are potential game-changers.

1. The APAN/THINK PINK project through the SKIN AND WELLNESS month in October. We believe this event can potentially elevate the status of our members, improve their exposure and visibility to the public and could even double their income. However, they will need to connect with the program to benefit. They will need to also engage in some serious planning to leverage from this initiative and ensure that consumers identify them as being exceptional at what their business can offer them and choose to remain with them as long-term clients.

2. The new APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER TM (ARAP) is a very exciting project. The aim is to give serious therapists who work with the skin and in age management a more formal identity. Qualifications and on-going education will be the prerequisite for this classification. Consumers are confused as to who we really are – not the basic beauty therapist, but the skin expert. This sector of the industry needs a clearer definition. In fact we are finding that practitioners

APAN HEAD OFFICER SERVICE PROVIDERS (Continued) CHRISINE COMANS CTARP Co-ordinator Christine is an APAN Gold Member (Cosmetic Tattoo) and is a qualified Medical C o s m e t i c Ta t t o o practitioner and trainer.

She is also a registered member under the new registration classification Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP). The classification was launched in 2015 to recognise Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners who hold government-approved qualifications and who commit to on-going professional development. Members under this registration must provide evidence of their on-going education and abide by the Code of Ethics. Christine has been appointed at the National Co-ordinator of CTARP and is the m o d e r a t o r o f t h e A PA N F a c e b o o k Community for Cosmetic Tattooists. This is a closed community so if you would like to be invited on this group please contact Christine by email: comanschristine@gmail.com Christine has been instrumental in helping to raise awareness of the importance of cosmetic tattooists upgrading their training to government-approved qualifications. She also represents APAN with government bodies in Western Australia.

TERRY EVERITT Master Of Ceremony National Advisory Council Member Terry is well known as a highly qualified and respected educator and conference speaker both here in Australia and in the US. He holds a Bachelors in Health Science (Aesthetic Therapies) as well as a Masters Degree in Education.

Terry has a long-standing involvement with the directors of APAN for over 20 years. With a strong focus on Clinical Aesthetics, Terry is an invaluable member of the APAN Conference team. He is the official MC for all the APAN Aesthetic Conference events to which he brings his own brand of professionalism, which delegates across Australia have come to appreciate. Terry is also often a conference speaker at the APAN events.

Additionally Terry is a regular contributor to educational article in various professional magazines and regularly submits educational article in APJ Journal. He is also a member of the APAN National Advisory Council.

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HR advice, business coaching, guidance with suppliers and products, as well as educational recommendations to further your skills and knowledge.

T E A M W O R K NEVER DOUBT THAT A SMALL GROUP OF THOUGHTFUL COMMITTED PEOPLE CAN CHANGE THE WORLD. INDEED, IT IS THE ONLY THING THAT EVER HAS. themselves are also seeking a clearer identity as well. We often hear the statement "I trained as a beauty therapist, but now I only work with skin and I am not quite sure where I fit? Are they dermal therapists, are they aesthetic therapists? Is there a difference? Do they need a qualification to correctly define them and allow them to call themselves? They answer is yes to all these questions.

They may need an Advanced Diploma or a Degree. However, they still need a formal industry classification. This Registration will provide both guidance and a clear new identity.

3. Another industry first is the APAN/QIP SPECIALISED HEALTH SERVICES ACCREDITATION PROGRAM. This is the Premier Accreditation Program that will recognise clinics and salons for achieving the highest quality standards in safety and care. The APAN/QIP Specialised Health Service Accreditation Program assesses against the National Safety and Quality Health Service (NSQHS) Standards, a set of ten (10) Standards developed by the Australian Commission on Safety and Quality in Health Care aimed at protecting the public from harm and improving the quality of health service provision. This is the "Rolls-Royce" Gold Standard of accreditation programs that will set those who choose to be recognised through this quality assurance program as the best-of-the-best.

Within your kit you will find tangible products and services to support you along your career and business journey. Furthermore, a percentage of your member's fee will go towards APAN pursuing formal representation with government regulatory activities and in developing initiatives such to improve your current position and assist you on several levels. More importantly, you are aligning yourself to a professional body that will guide you and offer you a better defined professional identity.

WHERE DO YOU SEE THE FUTURE CHANGES THAT WILL AFFECT THIS INDUSTRY? Tina: I believe we are only seeing the beginning of major changes within our industry, many of which will be consumer-driven as well as through advances in technologies that will allow us to achieve so much more than we can ever imagine, and this, not just for the skin, but also for body shaping and slimming treatment outcomes. Whatever you may think, this is an incredible industry.

It is never static. It brings wonderful opportunities and offers a diverse working environment where the "sky is the limit" with its possibilities and varying modalities. Of course, we need to understand that these advances will require higher knowledge and I believe that education will also play its role in validating our professional capabilities and the right to continue to deliver these treatments.

At this point I have a challenge to make to the industry:

While APAN can see ahead into the future and develop constructs to better support the professionalism of the industry, of itself, APAN cannot instigate change or progress. What we can provide are the tools for change. We are the coach that prepares you for the race, but ultimately the victory is yours to win. APAN can shine the light towards a better future, but it is the industry that will eventually shape its identity based on choices and on trust to take up the options available to them. In the end, you are the ones SO WHY THREE PROGRAMS? I am reminded of the movie My Fair Lady (an adaptation of the that will shape the industry's identity and you have a personal and original play Pygmalion). Eliza Doolittle (played by the beautiful professional responsibility to make the right choices.

Audrey Hepburn) is a Cockney girl selling flowers at the market.

She comes to Professor Henry Higgins asking for elocution It is therefore so important that the industry does not consider the lessons, after a chance encounter at Covent Garden. Higgins goes issue of improving qualifications as a burden, but as an important along with it for the purposes of a wager: That he can turn her into commitment that will secure their future. the toast of elite London society.

IN SUMMARY Doolittle receives voice coaching and learns the rules of etiquette.

The outcome is that she is transferred into this beautiful, sophisticated woman who impresses everyone. After winning the bet, Professor Higgins expected her to return to her job as a flower girl. However, Doolittle had been permanently transformed.

We believe that businesses who take part in the APAN/Think Pink project will experience a much needed publicity boost. The fundraising project will be completed at the end of October. Do they go back to business as usual, or can they leverage from this amazing exposure that may have transformed their whole profile and continue through another program? Both the ARAP and the QIP programs have the potential to continue profiling businesses at this new status of recognition if they choose to leverage from it.

Working together these programs have the potential to substantially elevate the position of many businesses to a new status.

From a perspective of working closely with the APAN as Brand Developer, I am amazed at the dedication and integrity of those involved. Their hard work and tenacious determination to the progress and advancement of its members and the industry will achieve long-term benefits offering economic sustainability, practitioner and business security now and into the future.

APAN’s strength and expertise is in proactive governance – identifying ways to better define and support the industry’s professional identity and create platforms for its continued sustainability and its on-going growth and prosperity.

By choosing to join and be identified with the APAN brand you can further enhance the profile and recognition of your own brand. APAN stands for high standards, quality and integrity and is the active line of communication on your behalf to government.

While you can establish your own standards for the benefit of clients, gaining external validation by a peak industry body has WHAT CAN I AS AN INDIVIDUAL OR A BUSINESS BENEFIT amazing merits that will reassure consumers to trust you and that they are in safe hands. Safety and Standards is the new marketing FROM APAN AS A MEMBER? mantra and it is advantageous for you to leverage of the APAN Mark: The first step is to join APAN as a professional member. brand and offer consumers that guarantee.

There are several categories to suit your professional and business n e e d s . Yo u c a n c h e c k t h e s e o u t o n t h e w e b s i t e As an industry representative, I sincerely believe that APAN is on www.apanetwork.com. As a member you will gain numerous track to guide the industry forward for a better future. discounted services, professional advice, legal advice, wages and

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APAN NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL As a professional Industry Standards Body to be effective APAN needs to demonstrate leadership and innovation by establishing valuable alliances with other professional institutions, as well as introduce programs and initiatives that will support and further the cause and purpose of the organisation's mission.

A key object as an organisation is for APAN to be known for its excellence in service and for quality innovations that will support the aesthetic industry in the area of recognition, integrity and sustainability. To assist in this task APAN has appointed the APAN NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL, consisting of some incredible individuals who review key projects and put forward proposals and recommendations for the consideration of APAN's MANAGEMENT BOARD. The role of the National Advisory Council is to provide a professional sounding board and expert recommendations through the collective wisdom of the individuals that make up this Council. They are also required to examine that the projects and initiatives that APAN launches are sound and credible in every way and administered through the guidance of their recommendation.

The APAN National Advisory Council consists of the following individuals: JOHN FERGUSSON John Fergusson was born in New Zealand and educated in Christchurch and in the USA. He holds qualifications in Nutrition with Donsbach University of Nutrition, Huntington Beach, California, USA and also holds several qualifications in business management. His area of expertise is business and leadership training with a very impressive portfolio of achievements.

GILL FISH Gill Fish is the Director and the specialist of an anti-ageing PR agency and brand developer. Her company, Brand New Solutions (BNS), specialises in high-end medical, anti-ageing, health and wellness PR, marketing and branding services. The company has worked with leading medical professionals, technologies, products, clinics and associations delivering credible and cutting-edge content to media across the board on behalf of its clients. Gill's is recognised as one of the most astute, credible and successful professional PR and marketing agencies in the field of wellness, nutrition and beauty.

MAUREEN HOUSSEIN-MUSTAFA OAM Maureen Houssein-Mustafa OAM is the executive Chairperson of the MHM Group Pty Limited and is the founder of the Australasian College Broadway. This College was the first private Registered Training Organisation (RTO) to be awarded the NSW Training Provider of the Year (2000) and is a member of the Australian Council for Private Education and Training (ACPET). Maureen is an incredible entrepreneur and humanitarian and has won several awards recognising her for her achievements. In 2011 Maureen was the recipient of the Order of Australia Medal. Maureen is also the owner of the Australasian College of Health and Wellness that delivers a degree qualification for the aesthetics industry. In 2013 the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) was approved by the Tertiary Education Quality Standards Authority (TEQSA), the government body responsible for maintaining quality assurance across all higher education providers including universities. The process for approval of new degrees is lengthy and rigorous, and they are proud to be one of only two institutions in Australia to be approved in 2013.

VANESSA KIRKHAM Vanessa Kirkham is a qualified accountant and a Justice of the Peace and also holds qualifications in aesthetics. She has worked extensively for both health and wellness organisations, as well as for a major accounting firm in Queensland, a major not-for-profit organisation and the Australian Tax Officer. Vanessa has also served on the Board of several organisations where she has contributed to their strategic planning and development. She is highly regarded and her key areas of expertise is in financial control and financial services and management.

TERRY EVERITT Because of his extensive qualifications and knowledge in the area of aesthetics and standards management, Terry Everitt, is also a valuable member of the APAN National Advisory Council. He also holds credentials and expertise as an auditor/compliance officer and has worked with government agencies in this capacity.

Terry is currently a lecture in the higher education division of the Australasian College of Health and Wellness in Sydney.

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APAN ORGANISATION AND INITIATIVES MANAGEMENT BOARD ADVISORY BOARD CORE VALUES Innovation Guidance Integrity Sustainability APAN is a member-based organisation supporting the aesthetics industry.

APAN's vision is to forge integral platforms that establish economic, social and environmental sustainability for its practitioners, the Aesthetic industry as a whole, and ultimately contribute to a better Australian economy.

In brief here is a dendrograph of the organisational structure of APAN:

APAN MEMBERSHIP A. Unaccredited Memberships Corporate Platinum Membership Corporate Platinum (Medical) Membership Gold Membership Gold (Degree) Membership Gold (Cosmetic Tattoo) Membership

B. Accredited Registrations Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner TM (ARAP) APAN/QIP Specialised Health Services Accreditation Program.

COMMUNICATIONS AND NETWORKS APJ Journal www.apanetwork.com Social Media: APAN Facebook UAC Facebook www.urbanaestheticculture.com Laser Regulatory Facebook Twitter Tumblr Instagram Linkedin Articles and press released to other publications and platforms Attend Medical Conferences Strategic Alliance with the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine

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CONSULTING AND ADVOCACY

ON-GOING EDUCATION

APRANSA - IPL/LASER Regulations Working Group Health Department Skin Penetration Regulations Medicine Regulations & Quality ASQA

APAN Accredited Courses: Introduction to the safe use of Topical Anaesthetics Medical Cosmetic Tattooing Understanding GenY

CONFERENCE AND EVENTS

SPECIAL MEMBER SERVICES

Regional Events: Aesthetic Conferences (three per year)

APAN/Think Pink Foundation Government Funding Programs for Qualifications Strategic Alliance Partners (14)

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cosmetictattooing

COSMETIC TATTOOING Why is the public not protected?

By Christine Comans APAN Co-ordinator Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner Cosmetic tattoo trainer and educator

While training as a cosmetic tattoo practitioner is readily available both through accredited and non-government accredited training the industry continues to be exploited.

Meanwhile, various States require a Skin Penetration licence to perform this procedure, but the issue as to who can purchase equipment is relatively unregulated.

Christine Comans is a highly respected medical cosmetic tattoo practitioner and an accredited trainer to governmentapproved qualification standards. In this article she explores some of these concerns and challenges the industry to unite through a commitment to standards and clearly defined profession status that aims to secure the future of Cosmetic Tattoo in Australia. Christine explores the purpose of the new CTARP – the Registration for Cosmetic Tattoo Professionals and discusses the purpose behind this Registration, the aims

and how it will benefit the professional cosmetic tattooist and support a better future for this industry.

Did you know that ANYONE in Australia without any formal cosmetic tattoo training, just anyone straight off the street, with absolutely no prior experience or industry knowledge, can purchase a tattoo machine and call themselves a cosmetic tattooist. The alarming thing is that many are doing just that and are starting businesses tattooing faces.

COSMETIC TATTOOING INDUSTRY CONCERNS Recent media stories have exposed horror stories of procedures going wrong because the practitioner was unqualified and with no formal training. These reports are bringing our industry into disrepute, and while we can state that the Government should do something about it, we also have a professional responsibility to examine our own position and to unite our concerns and our voice.

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Eyebrows seem to be the big ticket item at the moment, and there are dozens of private training providers that take students with no prior industry experience or knowledge and train them in this procedure. They may give students a brief overview on skin, but then they jump straight into tattooing faces. Students in these short courses may only tattoo two models and then they are sent away to commence a new business tattooing the public.

International cosmetic tattooists even come to our country and are training the general public how to perform cosmetic tattooing. Often these classes are one-day events and the students are not required to have any industry experience or any prerequisites. Anyone can attend this type of training and then begin tattooing faces after one or two days exposure to tattooing.

WIS THIS HAPPENING? Unfortunately, this is the reality in Australia and this is the result of no regulator instruments that require that someone needs a certain training standard to purchase a cosmetic tattoo machine and perform cosmetic tattooing as a profession.

cosmetic tattooing are not even aware that they are not getting a qualification, only a Statement of Completion.

Currently, the Health Departments in various States are issuing a skin-penetration licence to any individual who complies with skin penetration guidelines, regardless if that person has had absolutely NO TRAINING at all in cosmetic tattooing. There is no requirement for the applicant to submit any qualifications as long as their premises complies with skin-penetration requirements they will receive a licence.

We have approached the Health Department as they are the gatekeepers for licensing of these practitioners and brought this issue to their attention, as currently provided if your premises complies with the health standards and you have completed the unit “Maintain Infection Control” they are happy to issue you with a licence. The reality is that anyone, even a 16-year-old, can purchase a tattoo machine and without any evidence of formal training proceed to call themselves a cosmetic tattooist.

My question is why aren't the appropriate Departments enforcing government approved qualifications and why is this issue ignored by the various State Governments?

Thirty years ago when cosmetic tattooing was first introduced to Australia, there were no formal qualifications developed for this new procedure until much later.

As a stop-gap measure, because It is important to understand that CTARP tattooing is penetrating the skin, and is not about APAN, it is about the Cosmetic there is often blood involved during a Tattooist and our future. CTARP will become procedure, the Government decided it a very powerful tool that can assist APAN to needed to introduce skin-penetration influence legislation.

If we as practitioners licensing. The licensing was designed choose not to support CTARP and refuse to to mitigate potential spread of bloodregister under this classification then the borne viruses and ensure safe professional status of Cosmetic Tattooing infection-control measures are being will continue to disintegrate. complied with.

WE NEED A SOLUTION

This situation could be resolved if the Health Departments in the various States when amending the regulations ensured that each practitioner held a government-approved qualification before they issued their skinpenetration licence. This seems like a pretty simple solution to a growing industry issue. However, this is a difficult situation to navigate as What happens is really up to us. regulations must be up for review THE CURRENT STATUS WITH before amendments can be QUALIFICATIONS considered. This task is also quite involed and requires a strong While in the past few years Cosmetic Tattoo training has been industry body that can speak on behalf of the industry. APAN is available through a government-approved course as a skilled in this area and has on-going relationship with qualification, at this point in time this qualification is not a Government regulators to present these issue and negotiate on compulsory requirement under the current regulations. our behalf.

WRBSS505B – Design and Perform Cosmetic HOW CAN APAN HELP DEFEND THE REPUTATION AND Tattooing/micro-pigmentation, a procedure (Release 1) PROTECT THE FUTURE OF COSMETIC TATTOOING? became a qualification on the 7th June 2004 and was APAN has a mandate to help us by negotiating with incorporated into the Beauty Training Package. This has now Government regulators for more stringent controls on who can been established for over a decade, but only a very limited practice cosmetic tattooing. They are experts and skilled in number of professionals currently hold this qualification. This dealing with the Government and work tirelessly and is because many of the regulations that relate to skin penetration strategically to achieve a positive outcome for our industry. have not been updated for several years and therefore do not Dealing with regulators requires knowledge, perseverance, include qualifications. consistent effort, money, a great deal of time and a lot of Meanwhile, since November 2015 this qualification has been patience. APAN understands regulatory pathways and updated and replaced by the SHBBSKS003 – Design and processes that can lead to outcomes and we are fortunate to have Provide Cosmetic Tattooing. As practitioners, what are we a body that will fight for us. They have been approached by doing about it? several practitioners who are Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners who are very concerned with what is happening in the Due to the lack of governance in this profession, the majority of industry to instigate a strategy that will protect the the training providers for cosmetic tattooing are NOT reputation of this practice.

Registered Training Organisations (RTO) and therefore cannot deliver this training as a qualification. They can only offer a WHY CTARP WAS INTRODUCED? Statement of Completion and not any units of competencies or To assist in this process, at the end of 2015 APAN launched a the SHBBSKS003 – Design and Provide Cosmetic new Registration – COSMETIC TATTOO APAN Tattooing. It is alarming, but many who are gaining training in REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP). This registration

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has a specific purpose and mandate – to establish a strong industry voice through leading Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners who embrace and comply with the highest industry standards that are clearly defined through two uniform standards: a. Government-approved qualification b. A commitment to undertake on-going education that can be validated

It is important to understand that CTARP is not about APAN, it is about the Cosmetic Tattooist and our future. CTARP will become a very powerful tool that can assist APAN to influence legislation. If we as practitioners choose not to support CTARP and refuse to register under this classification then the professional status of Cosmetic Tattooing will continue to disintegrate. What happens is really up to us.

Cosmetic Tattooists are required to join APAN as Gold Members. They then can apply for a small fee of $110 to become accredited under the CTARP Registration. To achieve this they will need to first upgrade to a government-approved qualification (if they already are not).

IS APAN COMPETING WITH THE COSMETIC TATTOO ASSOCIATION?

BUT I DON'T HAVE A GOVERNMENT-APPROVED QUALIFICATION? Currently some are panicking that they will need to train all over again to gain a government-approved qualification. That is not the case.

Cosmetic Tattooists who believe that they practise to a high standard, but do not currently hold a government-approved qualification, can seek to get their skills and knowledge assessed through a process called Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL) that can only be conducted by a Registered Training Organisation that has the Cosmetic Tattoo qualification on their registration scope.

If during an assessment their current skills and knowledge meet with the competencies requirements of SHBBSKS003 – Design and Provide Cosmetic Tattooing they will be able to gain an upgrade to a qualification.

However, if they are found to have some skills gaps they will only be required to complete a study just in the area of their deficiency. Once this is completed that can be upgraded to a full qualification.

The decision to assess and determine an individual's competency standards is strictly within the RTO's jurisdiction.

WHY DO I NEED TO ACHIEVE THIS AND WHY REGISTER WITH CTARP? APAN through CTARP Registration is introducing and accrediting a new level of professional status for Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioners in Australia. To belong to CTARP (Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner) you will need to provide evidence of your qualifications, sign and comply with the Code of Ethics as well as commit to staying current in your skills and knowledge by attending a certain level of on-going education over a two-year period.

APAN will validate credentials and establish CTARP as a body of experts who comply to uniform standards that the Government can understand and allow these standards to be reflected in regulations. In this way we can move to a more professional industry and protect our future businesses.

Regulations that clearly define standards will be able to protect our industry from being exploited.

As cosmetic tattooists we also have a responsibility to secure not just the present, but also the future of our profession by raising the standards and accepting to be identified by these standards.

APAN recognises and supports the Cosmetic Tattoo Association and its efforts to offer workshops to help practitioners improve their skills.

On the other hand, while APAN does also host skills training programs they view their mandate and role as protectors and defenders of the profession. Their position is fundamentally different, yet with a common goal to help the profession continue to grow and prosper. We need to see the bigger picture and prepare today for a better future.

WHAT DO I DO NOW? Gaining government-approved qualifications is the first step.

Gaining Registration through CTARP is the next step that will ultimately allow us to gain a strong voice with government.

As individuals we can make a difference – together we can contribute to change for a better future.

If you wish to learn more about the process visit www. http://apanetwork.com/ctarp/ to gain full details and to access an Application Form.

If you will like to be assessed for a trainer who can assist you with your RPL process please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 for further information.

ABOUT CHRISTINE COMANS Christine Comans is a qualified and highly respected cosmetic tattooist based in Perth who specialises in medical cosmetic tattooing. Her work is highly regarded by several plastic surgeons who keep her busy through constant referrals of their patients to her for several procedures including nipple areola after mastectomy.

Christine is also passionate about industry standards and has been appointed as the Coordinator for the APAN membership classification – COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) Contact Chris on 0419 965 933 or Email: comanschristine@gmail.com

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APJ 78

APAN - COSMETIC TATTOOING MASTER CLASS

DESIGNER EYEBROWS Become a Master of the latest techniques in Eyebrow Hair Stroke

DATE: Monday 23rd May TIME: 9am - 5pm LOCATION: Brisbane COST: $1350 LEARNING OBJECTIVES:

APAN’s hands-on training workshop is for Cosmetic Tattooists who wish to learn or perfect their skills in the latest techniques in DESIGNER EYEBROWS using the Hair Stroke method.

1. DESIGN AND APPLICATION Measuring brows and drawing the shape to follow

This is a fully supervised, training workshop with a very limited number of students so you can get the benefit of maximum training and skills development.

2. TECHNIQUES FOR CREATING HARMONY AND BALANCE How to correctly measure the exact position for the brows Choosing a style and thickness to suit your client

Tina Hammond is a qualified Cosmetic Tattooist and brow specialist with a passion for brows for which she has become highly renowned. For her excellent techniques Tina has been acknowledged and has been the recipient of the BEST COSMETIC TATTOOIST AWARD three years in a row – from 2010-2013. With over 25 years of experience in hair and beauty she brings a great deal of artistry and skill to her work that have achieved amazing transformations for many. She will share many of her unique techniques with you in this training program.

3. PERFORM A HAIRSTROKE BROW Techniques for creating the perfect natural hair stroke brow 4. TECHNIQUES FOR 3D BROWS How to create a more advanced 3D brow by combining hair stokes and shading Also learn and master the advanced Hybrid technique 5. PROTOCOLS FOR POST-PROCEDURE ADVICE How your client needs to take care of their brows after the treatment and what to expect.

STUDENTS WILL RECEIVE: > Lunch, morning and afternoon tea > Professional Development Statement of Completion from APAN.

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PLEASE NOTE: > Only six positions are available to ensure maximum supervision. > Hands-on training will be conducted with only three students at a time with two trainers. Limited positions. Register now.

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TO REGISTER PLEASE VISIT www.apanetwork.com and access the link under courses or Phone APAN 07 5593 0360.

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publicitymarketing

How to Get a Story About Your Business Published in the Media

By Sue Papadoulis

In this day of multi-media communication and fierce competition, what strategies do you have in place to retain the interest of your clients and attract new ones? While most successful businesses use social media like Facebook, Twitter, as well as EDMs, texting, etc, getting your story told on TV, radio and local publications is something that most consider beyond their capabilities. As a result this very powerful media tool is often underutilised.

Sue Papadoulis is a published co-author of three books and a highly successful journalist with an extensive career in media spanning over 22 years. She is now empowering entrepreneurs in the skills needed to achieve their own media success stories through her own training program. In this article she shares some valuable tips on what is needed to succeed in this arena.

Getting a story published in the media – on TV, radio, magazines, digital news outlets – isn't as difficult as you might believe – as long as you understand some important things about the media business.

All businesses have something that is of interest to the media!

Many business owners believe that in order to get a story about themselves published or broadcast in the media they must have done something special, or they must be the biggest and best in their industry.

Some people are just intimidated at the thought of appearing in a digital news website, a newspaper or being promoted on a TV show like Sunrise.

They also commonly believe that getting into the media costs money – either by having to spend on advertising, or by hiring an expensive PR firm.

The reality is that every business is the keeper of some great stories that the media would love.

It's simply a case of accessing some insider journalist secrets and being open to the idea that your business could skyrocket as a result of some well-placed free promotion in the guise of a news story.

The majority of the stories in a newspaper are simply interesting pieces of information that their audience will find useful.

There are always the big news stories of the day, such as a natural disaster, political issues or court cases, but I estimate that around 40 to 50 per cent of news space is devoted to stories which result from a press release. This is even more-so the case in light of cut costing and job losses at newspapers around the country.

With fewer journalists available to create the same amount of content they will be less proactive in finding stories, and more reactive to press releases sent to them.

Each day there are hundreds of stories appearing in the media that have resulted from press releases. So, what do you put into a press release?

WHAT SHOULD BE IN A PRESS RELEASE? The first step is to realise that the process of getting free publicity is not about you at all – it's about the audience of the newspaper or magazine you're targeting. Many business owners think they need make some kind of announcement in a press release. In fact, making an announcement of any kind should be avoided.

Announcements, such as moving to a new office, or hiring a new employee or launching a new website are not interesting to many people beyond the business owner, their employees and family.

The first key is finding a newsworthy story angle. Here is a four-step guide to coming up with something newsworthy: 1.

Think about what's happening in the news right now and how you can become a part of the story.

For example, the economy and interest rates are always in the news. As interest rates rise, media outlets are looking for angles that help their audience cope. There are stories about how to shop on a budget, how to get the best mortgage deal, where to find the cheapest whitegoods, how to cut your power bill – the list goes on. Think of a solution that your business provides to people during tough economic times and then make this the basis of a media release.

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Think about current consumer trends. Where are consumers heading? Are they more interested in the environment, saving water (a big one for gardeners in summer), home renovating, self-improvement, health or the latest techniques in looking younger?

Journalists love to be the first with news about the latest trends.

2.

Provide a comment. If there's a story in the news that affects your business or impacts on your customers, put together some considered opinions and include them in a media release on the issue. Often, a media outlet will want to feature a story time and again and need a new angle to keep it going. If you listen to talkback radio, there are countless opportunities to express your opinion every day.

3.

Make the news yourself. If you have a decent-sized database, run a poll of your clients on issues that relate to your business and then create a news story about it.

For example, I recently saw a Subiaco (suburb in Perth) real estate company conduct a poll on the renaming of Subiaco Oval. They surveyed their subscribers to see if they were in favour of the new name. The results were included in a story in the local paper. The real estate company only has a loose connection with the issue, but they made the topic their own and by doing so received some excellent free exposure for their business.

4.

Once you have a great newsworthy angle, the next step is to prepare a press release to send to media. Journalists prefer to receive information about your business in the right kind of format.

MY 10-STEP PLAN TO WRITING A GOOD MEDIA RELEASE 1.

! ! ! !

Get the layout right: You need the following: A headline sentence in bold An opening paragraph in bold Text that supports your headline and opening paragraph Contact details

2.

Create a great headline: The headline should sum up the media release contents in a concise manner – just as a newspaper headline does. Keep it to one short sentence.

3.

Write a snappy opening sentence. Your opening sentence can be just as important as the headline in attracting interest from a journalist who may scan this alone and determine whether or not the entire story is of interest. Remember also, these words are also indexed by search engines, so if you're putting your release online, add some key words.

4.

Support your headline and opener with quality text: The remaining text supports your story and must answer the questions of who, what, when, where, how and why. Write the text in the format used by your target media outlet. For example, if you're targeting an online news website write it as they do.

5.

Use quotations. Quote yourself high-up in the release – in the second or third sentence. Keep quotes short, sharp and newsworthy (often referred to by the media as a 'grab', which summarises the main point of the story).

6.

Include an expert if possible. If you can find a third party to support your position it will give you and your release instant credibility and move it away from being a promotional piece into the realm of serious news story.

7.

Provide full contact details. Include your name, landline, mobile phone number, email address and web address

8.

Try to keep it to one page. More than 1.5 pages and a journalist just won't read it.

9.

Offer images and make yourself available for an interview. Often, a journalist will want to do an interview rather than lifting quotes directly from a media release. A media outlet may be happy to use your images, or they may want to take photographs themselves, so make yourself available

10.

Send it out! Develop a list of targeted media outlets who regularly write about your topic.

The process of getting published comes down to understanding that you already possess a huge amount of interesting and useful information interesting to the media. Journalists love to run stories that their audience likes to read and will help solve problems, therefore your information can easily be turned into a news story, as long as it is relevant to the media's target audience.

Package your interesting information into a well-crafted press release and it's not so difficult to get published in a newspaper or magazine, or broadcast on TV or radio.

Sue Papadoulis is a former journalist who empowers and motivates businesses to take their game to the next level by using the power of free publicity.

Sue is Australia's leading specialist in helping entrepreneurs generate free publicity. To find out about her live seminars around Australia and to access her special report, "The Five Biggest Secrets to Getting Free Publicity in the Media" visit www.publicityforprofit.com.au We are delighted to announce that Sue will be attending and speaking at the APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE in Sydney on Sunday 26th June. Book now to benefit from her knowledge as well as five other dynamic speakers.

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visit www.apanetwork.com and click on our conference program.

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memberprofile

An Amazing Journey from Beauty and Beyond Achieving progress one qualification at a time...

Chrisitine Astbury-Egger is the owner of Your Beauty, Laser and Spa in Hamilton, regional Victoria. She has been a member of APAN for several years and we are delighted to present her story in this issue of APJ as part of our Member's Profile feature. With over 30 years’ experience Chris has seen many trends and changes in the industry. While several within the industry have not survived, Chris has been able to weather the storms of juggling family and business and continue to grow. Her success is very much a reflection of her passion for learning, her commitment and dedication to her profession and to her own-going advancement of her skills and knowledge.

APJ Q1: HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN IN THIS INDUSTRY AND WHEN DID IT ALL BEGIN FOR YOU? My background was in office administration and working in a grocery department store. There I learnt the importance

of customer service and care and I realised that I loved the interaction with people and so I decided to train as a beauty therapist. I started as a trainee and completed my theory through distance learning from Madame Korner – that was 32 years ago.

Thirty years ago this year I started my own business. Driving into Portland with a car full of equipment, towels and products, unloading and then driving back to Hamilton. We really didn't stop travelling like this for about 20 years! Back in those days I was the only 'qualified' therapist in the whole area of two towns of 9000 people, so I was kept very busy.

APJ Q2: YOU OFFER A BROAD CROSS-SECTION OF SERVICES FROM SPA, BEAUTY, COSMETIC TATTOOING TO SKIN IMPROVEMENT AND ANTI-AGEING TREATMENTS? DID YOU CHOOSE TO PROVIDE A VARIETY OF SERVICES BECAUSE OF YOUR DEMOGRAPHICS OR DID YOU JUST CONTINUE ADDING SERVICES AS YOUR CAREER AND BUSINESS EVOLVED OVER THE YEARS? Yes, I did choose to offer a variety of services because of our demographics. We were the only salon in this region for many, many years. I viewed that it was my responsibility to do so.

Being in the country and four hours from Melbourne meant that we needed to cater for as many services as our clients needed.

My commitment was to also ensure that these services were of high quality and of excellent standards, similar to what would be

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available in Melbourne. I therefore invested a great deal of time to stay current in my skills and knowledge and abreast of new developments in the industry. Constantly pursuing my own education, I did numerous post-graduate short courses as well as extended my education by completing a diploma in Aromatherapy and Massage Therapy, which I drove to Melbourne to complete and also completed qualifications in diathermy. Following this my pursuit for improving my education led me to the University of New England to do a Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetic Therapies) – this was the first name-stream degree designed specifically for our industry.

At the time I had also my family to take care of. I have a photo of my three-week-old daughter sitting in the lecture theatre as I pursued my studies. Thank God for mums at time like these!

APJ Q3: TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR DEMOGRAPHIC LOCATION AND THE NEEDS OF REGIONAL VICTORIA CLIENTS – DO THEY HAVE SPECIFIC NEEDS, AND IF THEY DO, WHAT ARE THEY? At one stage we had salons in three locations – Portland, Hamilton and Horsham – each town of approx 9-10,000 population. We were the first in Western Victoria, the Mallee and South East South Australia to introduce IPL treatments.

This was 14 years ago. We travelled extensively from Colac to Ararat, Warrnambool, Warracknabeal, Mt. Gambier, Millicent and as far away as Kingston in South Australia. Every Sunday night we would pack the car for the next weekly IPL round. It was quite frenetic, but we managed to do it as the demand was strong.

As the businesses grew, we eventually sold the other two salons and concentrated on Hamilton. With two children it became increasingly more difficult and the travel was quite strenuous.

Furthermore, IPL services were starting to be introduced locally

so there was not as much need for me to take care of this service as the only treatment provider.

From a demographic point of view we are in Western Victoria 3.5 hours from Melbourne and one hour from the South Australian border. In terms of our clients' specific needs, because we are a rural region sun damage is a real concern and clients need to gain good education on the appropriate skincare for their needs. We are also seeing a growing demand for cosmetic tattooing, especially for the more mature ladies. These procedures are becoming increasingly popular.

APJ Q4: WHAT SERVICES ARE EXPERIENCING THE MOST GROWTH AND WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THIS TO? Moving with the times we need to ensure our clients are getting positive results. We therefore have chosen to work with DMK and with their skin treatments as we need credible cosmeceutical ingredients and advanced treatment protocols to be able to achieve the results that our clients have come to expect.

We have had such amazing success with our treatments and sales and this has contributed to us winning several awards. These included Southern Grampians Service Business Award 2010, for which we are very proud. Additionally, we have also won several DMK awards: DMK Victorian Salon of the Year 2005, 2011, 2012, 2013 and 2014. We also won the DMK Most Consistent Clinic 2015.

As I previously stated, the demand for Cosmetic Tattooing has also grown a lot during the past few years, While there are now other salons and clinics an hour or so away offering similar treatments, however, this has not affected us. Clients are now doing their research and feel confident that our skills and knowledge are up-to-date. I regularly update my qualifications,

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developments.

The APAN Conferences are invaluable for this. There are also several Facebook groups that can connect you to like-minded professionals.

and because we travelled extensively when we were performing IPL treatments in other locations we have a good reputation in other regions as well. It is very flattering that clients from other regions and towns that can be up to three hours away still choose to regularly drive to access their services from us. That is very special, humbling and so rewarding to have built that trust and to have had relationships with clients that have lasted 25 - 30 years.

The longevity of the salon's success I believe is directly linked to our good reputation for providing quality services with up-todate training and qualification. I am constantly committed to my own training and to ensure the training of my staff. We never rest on our laurels. We were the only salon in the district for a long time, but if we are to continue to maintain the loyalty of our clients and on-going business growth it was important to never take anyone for granted, and treat others around you as you would like to be treated yourself.

APJ Q5: HOW MANY STAFF DO YOU HAVE AND DO THEY PROVIDE SERVICES ACROSS THE BOARD OR ARE DELIVERING SPECIALISED WORK DEPENDING ON THEIR PASSION, SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE? We have six staff – two casual receptionists, one masseur, and three aesthetic therapists, plus me. I've always believed in supporting and acknowledging people's strengths. While we all need to offer the full service that the qualification entails, however, you soon work out where a person's passion lies and what they enjoy doing best. Identifying this and allowing them to predominantly do what they love the most will help them achieve better overall results, and for the business it will ensure a better staff retention rate. As for me, these days I also mostly get to do the fun stuff such as IPL, good old electrolysis, Cosmetic Tattooing and DMK Paramedical treatments.

APJ Q6: HOW DO YOU KEEP UP TO DATE WITH NEW DEVELOPMENTS AND WHAT TRAINING DO YOU SUPPORT THEM WITH? There is no doubt that through the various APAN initiatives we are able to be kept up to date with progress and new

Also through APAN I was able to gain my qualification in SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction last year with the valuable assistance of government funding, which APAN secured for me. This year I am undertaking the NAT10038 Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light therapies. This is the only qualification of its kind in Australia that covers skin rejuvenation, vascular, pigmentation and tattoo removal as a stand-alone government approved qualification that covers all these areas. Once again I was able to secure government funding through APAN through a different government project that APAN was able to secure for the industry. It is good to know that I am ready for any future regulations having completed the highest level of qualification for the modalities I perform in IPL and Laser.

Webinars are also a godsend to any salon owner that is committed to continuous improvement and are an increasingly valuable resource. DMK are experts at this and it has revolutionised our training within the salon. It is a big but necessary expense to send our team to Melbourne for hands-on training, but being backed up by on-line learning is brilliant.

APJ Q7: WHAT ARE THE KEY CHANGES YOU HAVE IDENTIFIED WITHIN THE INDUSTRY OVER THE YEARS AND ARE THESE CHANGES HAPPENING MORE RAPIDLY NOW? There is no doubt that more and more consumers are recognising the value they can gain from salon treatments. However, with so many new developments in technology and the accessibility of DIY products through the internet it is a growing threat.

Meanwhile there are many healthcare professionals entering the industry offering cosmetic medicine including standard "beauty salon" procedures such as peels, microdermabrasdion, laser and IPL treatments, so the choice of practitioner for consumers are becoming more diverse.

I believe that those that classify themselves as "beauty therapists" must seriously consider improving their qualifications and skills if they are to retain their position as a credible professional that the consumer can trust.

The introduction of degree qualifications will pay a key role in helping to shape the standard for our industry and support our practices as a profession. I am so fortunate and feel truly thankful that I had the opportunity to be one of the first to achieve my degree. I now know the value and benefit this has given me in supporting my business and being at the forefront of my profession.

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APJ Q8: WHAT KEEPS YOU MOTIVATED AND WHAT HELPS YOU RELAX THE MOST? I'm motivated by being the best that I can be and making sure that our salon services can also be delivered to the best possible standards. I'm motivated by offering young people a career in which I can help and support them in their journey, and I am also motivated by seeing results and people telling us the difference that our treatments have made in their lives. That they no longer worry about the grandkids pointing out hairs on their chin, or that they can go out in public without feeling emotional embarrassed. Kids with acne that can now look you in the eye and smile, whereas prior they would scuttle in eyes full of hopelessness and downcast. Women that feel and look 10 years younger because you have designed and tattooed eyebrows that subtly lifted and beautifully framed their eye – that is a real thrill!

I do warn clients now that I can't help myself, I just have to start humming towards the end of their cosmetic tattoo. I tell them that it's a good sign when I am humming, that the outcome to the treatment has been really successful. Ours is a very privileged profession in that we often see clients at times of crises, and although we are not there to counsel them, just by our touch we are validating them as a person and helping them work their way through their issues.

To relax I love starting the day with a walk on our local golf course with our fox terrier Pepper. She loves chasing her ball and you are guaranteed a big laugh. Once or twice a week it is a must to have a mental-health debriefing over a coffee with a girlfriend or two! These days I am working on my bucket list a little more intensively than before, hence our family went hot-air ballooning in January over the Yarra Valley! My daughter and I both love our horses. It has been wonderful for our relationship and something that we can share together. Horses are so grounding and the thrill of riding hasn't gone away yet. My son plays the piano rather well and I enjoy having our own private concert and soaking up the music permeating the house. This year for the first time I am taking part in the SA Variety – the childrens' charity Car Bash. This is a mad car trip beginning in

Port Lincoln and lasting seven days, God help me! Our car has the theme 'Mad Cows" so I should fit in! Does anyone want to sponsor a 'Mad Cow' car?

APJ Q9: WHAT SUPPORT AND BENEFITS HAS APAN GIVEN YOU AND YOUR BUSINESS? APAN offers me a steadying influence, a reality check, a phonea-friend option when things get tough. I have also attended several APAN Aesthetics Conferences and have always, always found them exceptionally valuable in further developing our business, let alone a damn good networking opportunity! It is so important if you are serious about your profession, any profession, to be a member of your professional association, it keeps you in touch, educated and helps to 'reignite' your reasons for deciding on your career path.

Your Beauty, Laser and Spa is located in Hamilton Victoria.

If you would like to speak with Christine Astbury-Egger phone 03 5572 5110.

TRAIN or UPSKILL in COSMETIC TATTOOING Offer your clients an exceptional service!

Cosmetic Tattooing offers a very rewarding profession for Beauty Therapists who wish to extend their scope of practice.

This is a very exciting and rewarding profession. Improve confidence and self-esteem like no other modality and transform lives through the amazing techniques of Cosmetic Tattooing.

Janette Zakos has 25 years’ experience as a Master Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioner and has 10 years’ experience in teaching these techniques.

Gain Government-Approved qualifications as a: !

New Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioner !

Upgrade your existing training, skills and knowledge to a Government-approved qualification.

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If you are an already trained and experienced Cosmetic Tattooist then you may qualify for Recognition of Prior Learning. Why not find out today?

For further details Phone Janette Zakos today 0414 389 603 or email janettezakos@gmail.com

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WHAT'S IN A HORMONE Measurement and Interpretation Sinan Ali – Associate Professor While many of the protocols that we practise to improve the skin and support wellness are topically applied, understanding underlying factors that affect ageing is also critical. Stress, in particular, can substantially accelerate ageing in an individual and seriously compromise your treatment results despite your good intentions. It is therefore an area that also needs to be monitored, while offering your clients support to minimise its impact both on their skin and health through various treatments you can offer in-salon, as well as other lifestyle choices.

There are several studies that have examined the role of hormones and their impact in skin changes, both positive and negative. One particular stress hormone is cortisol.

In this article Associate Professor Sinan Ali examines the role of cortisol in the body and discusses the latest scientific developments in accurately measuring and interpreting this important hormone.

I am fascinated by this one very small steroid hormone called cortisol. But before I go any further I want to tell you a little of myself and in doing so declare my interest in research and

development and in the business of hormonal measurements. I am currently Associate Dean at The Australasian College of Health and Wellness delivering the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) degree. I have established my research laboratory at the College and am actively involved in research and development projects dealing with steroid hormone action.

I am also Director of Salpath Labs, specialising in functional pathology and hormonal analysis from a variety of sources such as saliva, hair, blood and urine. Salpath major clients include Psychology Departments at Universities and Research Institutes across Australia and New Zealand, Functional/Integrative Medicine practitioners, their patients, the general public and most importantly the anti-ageing/aesthetics industry.

Salpath specialises in non-invasive salivary hormone analysis using ELISA and is the only commercial laboratory in Australia performing hormone analysis from hair samples which provide average three-monthly hormone levels. To date we have performed thousands of cortisol measures from hair samples across the globe. Salpath routinely analyses the following analytes; Cortisol, DHEA-S, Estradiol, Testosterone, Progesterone, Melatonin, C-Reactive Protein, Interleukin-6,

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Interleukin-1 Beta, Secretory Immunoglobulin-A, AlphaAmylase, 17 Alpha-Hydroxyprogesterone, Androstenedione, DHEA, Estriol, Estrone and Cotinine.

LET’S GET BACK TO CORTISOL Cortisol is classed as a glucocorticoid hormone and is derived from cholesterol. There are many other hormones derived from cholesterol such as testosterone (androgens), oestradiol (oestrogens), progestrone, DHEA and aldosterone to name a few. Very broadly speaking, some of these hormones regulate reproductive function and secondary sexual characteristics and behavior, some regulate ionic and fluid balance in the body, while others are "feel good" or "feel bad" hormones. While these are some broad general functions these hormones are involved in the regulation of a wide variety of bodily functions.

You may associate the term steroids as the anabolic steroids or the "roids" that may be used for bodybuilding. Certainly some steroid hormones like testosterone or dihydrotestosterone are famed for their protein-building characteristics (anabolic functions), while others such as cortisol have catabolic functions in which protein degraded into individual amino acids for shunting into glucose or energy-producing pathways. This is the origin of the term glucocorticoid.

CORTISOL, CBG AND PREGNANCY I spent many years of my early career as a stress physiologist researching the intricate balance between the biologically active "free hormone" (constitutes approximately 5-8% of total blood cortisol) and the biologically inactive "protein bound hormone" (CBG bound cortisol is over 90% of the total cortisol found in blood) stored as a reservoir and released in times of need. Last time I wrote for APAN I gave the example from my 1996 PhD thesis titled "The Structure and Function of Corticosteroid Binding Globulin (CBG)". In summary CBG is a blood protein which binds to and regulates the activity of the major stress hormone cortisol. In pregnancy cortisol is required both to initiate lung maturation in the last trimester of pregnancy as well as initiate the birth process. Cortisol is derived from cholesterol and is therefore hydrophobic or fat soluble. Because all bodily cells are bordered by a fatty layer, the cell membrane, there is no impediment for cortisol movement in and out of cells. This is very different for hydrophilic or water-soluble hormones which cannot freely cross the fatty-cell membranes.

If we look at the simplistic model that an increase in free hormone leads to increased biological activity it is difficult to imagine how an increase in cortisol in the last trimester of pregnancy can specifically cause lung maturation without causing premature labour. To explain, the answer lies in targeted delivery of cortisol to specific cells by CBG via binding to cell surface receptors. So you can see that hormone action is not that simple.

ANTI-INFLAMMATORY CORTISOL AND DERIVATIVES While the above is a great example to demonstrate the complexity of stress-hormone activity in pregnancy, allow me the indulgence to give another example that may be more pertinent to your industry and that is the role of cortisol or its synthetic derivatives in the inflammatory response. We have all heard of the use of cortisone, prednisolone, dexamethasone, beclomethasone (notice they all end in "..one") as antiinflammatory agents applied as topical creams, drips, drops or as injectables. These hormones delivered to sites of inflammation

in high enough concentrations will result in reduced interlukins that are required as signalling molecules to initiate and sustain inflammation. It is pretty obvious that we can achieve high steroid hormone concentrations with targeted exogenous administration directly to sites of inflammation.

How does the body achieve the same outcome?

CORTISOL, CBG AND INFLAMMATION The inflammatory response is part of the first line of defence against external pathogenic invasion and, or endogenous tissue damage. A series of cascade reactions results in increased diapedesis and blood flow to an inflamed area causing the swelling, redness and heat that is typical of the inflammatory response.

Diapedesis not only brings neutrophils and macrophages to sites of inflammation, but also proteins that would normally be confined to the blood compartment. One of these proteins of course is CBG, the cortisol-binding/carrier protein acting as a reservoir or pool for 90% of total body cortisol.

One of the roles of neutrophils is to release a proteinase enzyme called neutrophil elastase that cleaves proteins at specific amino acid sequences to inactivate them. Such a protein might be a toxin produced by invading pathogens. Small amounts of this elastase is released by neutrophils at all times, but is usually inhibited by the presence of a proteinase inhibitor called alpha 1 anti-trypsin. At sites of inflammation, however, activated neutrophils release much larger quantities of elastase than can be inhibited by the available proteinase alpha 1 anti-trypsin.

The elastase is now free to cleave other proteins. One of the proteins cleaved is CBG. This immediately causes the pool of bound cortisol to be released for biological activity; this of course is a cessation of inflammation through reduction of interleukins. What a wonderfully elegant mechanism for targeted delivery of large quantities of steroid hormone to sites of inflammation. Again, if we relied on the simplistic model of steroid hormone action we would find it difficult to come to terms with how we can achieve large quantities of cortisol only at specific and targeted sites. Using the two examples above I hope you can appreciate the importance of proteins like CBG in cortisol action.

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STRESS I previously wrote about the neuronal and the hormonal response to a stressor leading to measurable increases in catacholamines (epinephrine and nor-epinephrine) and various steroid and non-steroid based hormones, so I will not discuss them in detail here. In short, acute stress responses lead to

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adaptation (we call this "good stress") while chronic stress responses are maladaptive ("bad stress") and often lead to disease states. Stress is now recognised as a major contributor to cardiovascular disease and diseases of metabolism (metabolic syndrome X and Z), and is strongly implicated in the development of some cancers.

Psychological stressors encountered as part of daily living in modern-day society are now the major form of stressors experienced by individuals, compared to prehistoric times when physical stressors dominated.

STRESS ASSESSMENT Considering its profound and far-reaching effects on health and wellness measurement of stress, hormones are of utmost importance in research as well as clinical settings. While stress leads to changes in many hormones, traditionally cortisol has been regarded as one of the easier to measure due to its stability.

Cortisol can be measured from blood, urine or saliva and lately from hair. As usual all have their advantages and disadvantages.

cortisol measures because of the relative ease of providing a sample and performing the assays. Saliva measures only the free biologically active cortisol and is therefore thought to be a more useful measure in clinical settings. Changes in blood-cortisol levels is reflected in changes in salivary cortisol with roughly a five-minute lag time. Salivary cortisol is predominantly used in research studies and by integrative medical practitioners interested in the adrenal function of their patients. Again much of the latter is performed privately by functional pathology laboratories.

As mentioned above, cortisol measures in all biological fluids have their advantages and disadvantages. One of the biggest disadvantages is that cortisol changes are extremely dynamic, making interpretation very difficult. Cortisol can change by as much as five-fold within a matter of minutes with the smallest of stressors. The adrenal gland is also much more responsive in the morning as compared to the evening, so the degree of change will be different throughout the day. To make matters worse, cortisol changes are highly variable among individuals. I liken this to changes in blood-glucose levels in individuals which are very dynamic, depend on many factors and are variable among individuals. Imagine diagnosing someone with diabetes based on a glucose measure one hour after a simple carbohydrate laden breakfast.

An obvious solution to cortisol variability is to have multiple and repeated measures, which in a clinical setting can be very cost inhibitive.

HAIR ANALYSIS

MEASURING CORTISOL Historically cortisol has been measured in blood samples, which results in the determination of total cortisol with little regard for free and CBG bound fractions. A general practitioner interested in your cortisol levels for one reason or another will usually do so from blood testing. Interpreting cortisol results from blood is very difficult indeed and usually useless unless it presents in clear clinical levels such as in Cushings disease. A number of studies attempted to measure only the free cortisol in blood by first separating bound from free fractions or by measuring the concentration of CBG and therefore determining the bound and free fractions. While these have proven to be useful research tools they are very cumbersome to use in clinical settings by non-specialist laboratories.

URINE TESTING Cortisol measures in urine not only give the free biologically active cortisol fraction, but is also useful for getting rates of production and metabolites, which can answer more clinically relevant questions. Measurement of urine cortisol in the ‘70s and ‘80s were somewhat cumbersome, however recent developments using mass spectroscopy based assays from dried urine spots have seen a resurrection of its use in clinical settings.

Much of this work is performed privately by specialist laboratories rather than the big Medicare-funded pathology labs.

SALIVA TESTING Salivary cortisol is now recognised as the method of choice for

Recent developments using hair cortisol is proving to be very promising for stress related studies. Hair grows approximately 1cm per month and free cortisol is continually deposited and trapped in the matrix of the hair shaft as it grows. On a miniature scale we would be able to see the highs and lows of cortisol as it is deposited along the shaft. It is almost as if the hair is a biological probe continually measuring cortisol. Another way of looking at it is that if we extracted and measured cortisol from a 3cm length of hair we would see a three monthly average of cortisol concentration. Remember that this is a three monthly average taking into account all of the highs and lows of a dynamically variable hormone. This surely makes interpretation much easier and more useful in clinical settings.

Let's again use the blood-glucose analogy above. A person with diabetes usually takes multiple blood-glucose measures throughout any given day and has an idea of how well they are controlling their sugars by getting an average glucose measure.

This we said was very cost-prohibitive for cortisol. While a diabetic relies on daily glucose measures the real measure of diabetic control comes from measuring glycatedheamoglobin (HbA1c) once every 3-6 months. Glycatedheamoglobin is directly proportional to average blood glucose-levels.

Getting back to cortisol; blood, urine or salivary cortisol measures are akin to the daily dynamic variable snapshot measures while hair cortisol provides the three-monthly average. While hair cortisol is technically challenging to measure its main advantage of providing a three-monthly average without the usual noise makes it an extremely exciting development for both research and clinical settings. It is certainly the future of stress assessments in health and wellness.

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starperformer

Staying ahead of the trends in COSMETIC TATTOOING Without a doubt Zahra Naderi is a passionate Cosmetic Tattooist who loves sharing her skills and knowledge with others. As a qualified trainer she delivers training to government-approved qualification standard through an RTO college to which she is affiliated with.

While considered to be highly skilled and a master of cosmetic tattooing, she constantly seeks to improve her techniques and enhance her knowledge. Zahra has just returned from Europe where she attended a variety of comprehensive post-graduate training workshops in Berlin, Paris and London. Joining with other professionals from around the world Zahra attended several intensive workshops conducted by world-leading experts on the latest techniques in cosmetic tattooing. One of her favourites was Medical Scalp Cosmetic Tattooing procedures.

As the Australian agent of the German Cosmetic Tattoo brand Purebeau, Zahra also attended workshops conducted by the company that delivered training and new and improved techniques. "It was wonderful to meet other colleagues from around the world who are also passionate in perfecting their techniques and skills," Zahra said.

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"Learning is an on-going adventure and despite how much we think we know, there is always something new we can learn," she stressed.

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TRAINING TO A QUALIFICATION STANDARD Zahra loves to share her knowledge with others and to ensure that everything she learns she passes on to others for their own success. Currently she is offering post-graduate training in a variety of procedures that are aimed for beginners as well as

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Become An

EXPERT post-graduate for other experienced cosmetic tattoo practitioners who wish to extend their repertoire of services, or learn new innovative ways of achieving better results in what they are already doing.

Zahra can train you or refresh your skills with new innovative techniques in:

Cosmetic Tattooing has come a long way over the years. New, more sophisticated tools, new techniques and trends can allow a skilled and welltrained practitioner to become very much in demand. Ever-growing in popularity, Cosmetic Tattooing offers an amazing and very fulfilling career with tremendous scope, both for those who are artistic and those who are compassionate and nurturing.

Scalp treatments for men and women Nipple areola Lip liner blend and full lip Eye liner Eye brows – Numerous techniques in eyebrow design, which are in vogue at the moment.

Sara Naderi is a qualified beauty therapist and Cosmetic Tattooist who has international training and over 20 years’ experience in Cosmetic Tattooing. Training with Sara will allow you to benefit from her expert techniques, while you can also qualify to receive government-approved qualifications in SIBBSKS504A Design & Perform Cosmetic Tattooing.

We spoke to two recent students that Zahra trained and this is what they had to say:

Sara is a APAN Corporate Platinum (Cosmetic Tattoo) Member Member of the Australasian Cosmetic Tattoo Professionals

! ! ! ! !

"I am a qualified beauty therapist, but wanted to extend my services so that I can also provide my clients with cosmetic tattooing procedures. Zahra's reputation is very good so I chose to study with her. I completed full training including eye brow design, eye liner, lip liner and beauty spot, both theory and practical. Zahra was very patient with me as she taught me various procedures and details with regards to the various techniques. I found her very knowledgeable and extremely supportive and patient. She explained everything clearly and systematically. While I feel confident that I can do the various procedures I now need to gain some experience. What I like about Zahra is that she has encouraged me to come back to her any time that I need to check on anything, or if I am unsure about something. I like her open-door approach even after the training was finished.” Ariana Mengati, NSW. "I am a cosmetic tattooist who also specialises in medical cosmetic tattoo procedures and also a qualified beauty therapist and laser therapist. I had heard of Zahra's techniques and I decided to undertake a post-graduate refresher course with her and learn her techniques and any new techniques that are currently being taught. Zahra covered lips, brows and eyes and I was thrilled to pick up some new, more modern techniques from her. I found Zahra very knowledgeable, patient and thorough in her training. She also covered colour theory and taught me many new things, including colour correction and ways to overcome problems in the area of colour stability. It's amazing how techniques are always changing. I believe I gained excellent value from my training and appreciated Zahra's expertise, dedication and patience. We were supposed to finish at 4pm and we didn't finish until after 7pm. Zahra has amazing knowledge and it was reassuring to know that if I have any problems and need her help in the future, she is willing for me to call and speak with her." Susan Finato.

If you would like to train in the very latest techniques in cosmetic tattooing or undertake a qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing please contact Zahra Naderi on 0405 463 636 or phone Sydney College of Hair, Beauty and Makeup 02 9976 2200.

Zahra is also the exclusive Australian Agent for the German company Purebeau – the new generation of Cosmetic Tattoo pigments and equipment. For further information phone 1300 667 719 or visit www.purebeau.com.au.

COURSES AVAILABLE: ! Initial Training in Cosmetic Tattooing to Governmentapproved qualifications ! Refresher courses to advance your skills and knowledge in Eyeline, Lipliner, Full lip, Eyebrow techniques Sara is also a specialist in Eyebrow Threading and offers highly skilled training in her unique method. Other courses also available.

PUREBEAU NEW GENERATION COSMETIC TATTOO PIGMENTS AND EQUIPMENT Sara is also the Exclusive Distributor of the German-made world-leading Cosmetic Tattooing pigments and equipment PUREBEAU. Sophisticated and outstanding new high-tech equipment that meets with European and Australian standards and offers state-of-the-art solutions to allow for safe, effective and precise application of cosmetic tattooing and medical pigmentation.

For further information on training or to enquire about our amazing world-leading devices and pigments contact PUREBEAU Australia E: info@purebeau.com.au P: 1300 667 719 | M: 0405 463 636 W: www.purebeau.com.au | W: www.schb.com.au APJ 66

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productinnovations

AFFORDABLE WITHOUT COMPROMISE SKIN is a uniquely formulated natural skincare range that combines the best of science and nature. Scientifically proven ingredients such as organic coconut oil, aloe vera, chamomile, calendula extracts, white orchid as well pure Australian nutrient-rich macadamia and avocado oils deliver powerful nutritional benefits to the skin. In addition SKIN also utilises some of the most scientifically proven antioxidants including vitamins A, C and E, vitamin B, co-enzyme Q10 and niacinamide.

Based on an award-winning delivery system, these formulations ensure the active ingredients are vivaciously delivered to the deeper levels of the skin to restore skin vitality and rebalance nutrient deficient skin. SKIN's pharmaceuticalgrade formulation also includes other proven anti-wrinkle and tested for over 35 years, they provide guaranteed quality at a ingredients such as Matrixyl 3000 and hyaluronic acid to restore highly affordable retail price point of nothing over RRP $50 and with amazing 100% markup. The SKIN skincare range not only skin plumpness, tone and elasticity. promise results, but also provides an attractive product for Formulated specifically for the professional skincare business growth. environment for superior results and client satisfaction. Proven For further details on SKIN products phone 0430 007 998.

RECLAIM YOUR YOUTH – GIVE YOUR SKIN A PLUMP START WITH INTELLIGENT HYDRATION

SuperLUX SHR The next generation of IPL technology When it comes to traditional IPL hair removal, the discomfort and lengthy sessions sometimes associated with treatments are now a thing of the past, thanks to the breakthrough SHR (Super Hair Removal) technology of the cutting-edge SuperLUX. Developed

by The Global Beauty Group as part of their LUX Series range of technology, the SuperLUX raises the bar on what's possible in longlasting and lifestyle-driven beauty solutions. Clients can now enjoy a virtually painless permanent hair-reduction experience in almost half the time of a typical IPL hair-removal session. Rapid session times mean clients are conveniently in and out of the treatment room in a flash, while business owners can maximise productivity by slotting more appointments into a single day. The sleek and compact SuperLUX SHR also comes equipped with four other indemand IPL services, including photo rejuvenation for visible age reduction, pigmentation removal, acne management and vascular treatments. You can also upgrade both the device, and your treatment menu, to include a Radiofrequency (RF) handpiece to perform full face and body skin tightening – a treatment continually gaining traction as a comfortable, effective and non-invasive alternative to surgery.

The latest addition from Bioelements is creating quite a buzz with its amazing wrinkle-fighting properties.

Powered by Collage-4 Complex TM, this intensive plumping concentrate surges moisture deep into the surface layer to soak skin with vitamin Ccharged antioxidants, and effectively scavenge free radicals from 70%80%. This “liquid filler” includes three Australian wild plums plus a moisture-magnet marine bioactive to hold moisture in, propelling it through the epidermis. This increased hydration supports the skin's volume and reclaims natural youthfulness. Its intelligent hydration reads your skin and penetrates where it's needed to visibly improve the skin's texture and tone.

PLUM START will provide the skin with benefits such as: ! Instantly improves fullness ! Soaks skin with plum-infused antioxidant ! Surges moisture into the deeper layers of the skin ! Improves wrinkle valleys and crevices ! Skin will look refreshed and more youthful

For further details contact Absolute Spa 1300 262 275.

To discover more about how SuperLUX technology can grow your business, call The Global Beauty Group on 1300 006 607 or visit www.TheGlobalBeautyGroup.com.au

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Create an impacting Professional First Impression though Elegant Uniforms

Maintain a professional, polished appearance throughout the day with elegant work wear is a must to ensure those important first impressions when clients or patients enter your salon or clinic. Spring Spa Wear are specialists in the design and manufacture of uniforms, bed linen and more. Their garments strike a balance between looking neat and stylish as well as providing comfort throughout the day. Your uniforms can now make a quality statement that best reflects your business whether your services are beauty, spa, medical or wellness. Spring Spa Wear elegant range of fitted, yet comfortable garments are the perfect choice.

On the occasion of the launch of the three new APAN projects SPRING SPA is delighted to offer APAN members and subscribers a 20% discount for the entire month of May. To take up this fantastic offer and receive your 20% off purchases of uniforms bed linens and more please visit www.springspawear.com.au (this offer is valid for internet orders only and excludes already discounted items).

Here is a Step-by-Step to receive your 20% off:

F

F 20% O

Log onto www.springspawear.com.au Click on shop Click on tunics or items you are interested in.

Add items you wish to purchase to your cart and check out.

When checking out you will see a hot pink banner.

Go to HAVE A COUPON? and click here to enter your code.

Type in the word APAN ( in capitals).

Once this code is entered it will automatically discount your order by 20%.

(Remember this code will not work on sale items only full priced items ) continue to check out, pay and print invoice.

Once the order is confirmed and paid for in full your order will be shipped within 48 hours

This offer starts 1st May and expires 31st May 2016

LED TECHNOLOGY REACHES A NEW ADVANCED LEVEL Maximising your skin treatment results

Clairderm PhotonSmart Advanced LED Phototherapy machine is the world's most versatile and powerful LED phototherapy system for effective non-invasive skin rejuvenation. No pain, No Fuss, No recovery time - Just Outstanding Results! The touch screen control panel and 21 programs make it user-friendly. The large adjustable head and accurate height adjustment ensures optimal power delivery and large treatment area coverage (Face and Body). The full spectrum of panels available and unique “SmartClick� technology deliver 12 wavelengths from 400nm to 940nm,ensuring multiple aesthetic applications. The results and benefits for the skin are outstanding. It's recommended for collagen and elastin stimulation, scar prevention, photo-ageing, acne and improving the appearance of age spots, acne, skin tone and texture, fine lines and wrinkles.

For more information, contact Clairderm Medical Aesthetics on 1300781 239 or office@clairderm.com and visit us on www.medicalbeautyequipment.com

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A new addition to the SKEYNDOR ETERNAL line is the Sleeping Night Oil, a satiny, nutritional and deeply nourishing elixir formulated to stimulate cell renewal, repair the epidermis and detoxify for a renewed skin come morning time.

SKEYNDOR's ETERNAL line is an advanced cosmetic formula, developed with the regenerative and sophisticated powers of Award Winning Plant Stem Cell nanoliposomes to stimulate and protect skin stem cells, deliver an overall rejuvenating effect and improve all aspects of age-related concerns. Clients using ETERNAL can expect a significant and long-lasting improvement in deep and superficial lines, hydration levels, volume, clarity and skin texture. The new Sleeping Oil is a luxurious formula that boosts the overnight restorative and regenerative process to re-energise and guard from further damage. It stimulates and protects epidermal stem cell DNA, thanks to the potent properties of Sea Kale extract. In addition, SKEYNDOR merges potent antioxidant properties and five exquisite natural oils that work to nourish, moisturise, restore and increase the skin's wellbeing and overall beauty. Contact

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Vogue Image Group email info@vogueimage.com.au, call 1 800 554 545 or visit www.vogueimage.com.au.

APJ 93

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UPDATE ON CONSUMER TRENDS IN COSMETIC PROCEDURES Here are the statistics

By Louisa McKay, Managing Director, Costhetics As Australia's leading information source for cosmetic surgery procedures and practices, Costhetics specialises in generally reporting on beauty news and survey for specific consumer trends. Recently, their team conducted a survey on the Costhetics Facebook page. The goal was to use social media to review consumer trends and preferred procedures State-byState across Australia.

The eye-opening results provide an Instagram-worthy snapshot on the following: ! How Australians view cosmetic enhancement ! What they want ! Their most wanted procedures

Here's what they discovered: Procedures are not just about the face. Body shaping and curves as did breast augmentation actually topped the list. It seems Australians are very conscious also about their bodies.

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The Costhetics survey asked respondents what they would change about themselves. From head-to-toe, only three areas earned double-digit responses: ! Change Breasts – 19% ! Get rid of Cellulite – 11% ! Change Face – 10.5% ! Change Nose 10.5%

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In light of the statistics above, it's not surprising that the majority of people in all but two States have chosen surgical breast augmentation over any other procedure: ! NSW – 11.43% ! VIC – 4.28% ! QLD – 7% ! WA – 0.7%

Breast Reduction: In South Australia, Less Is More Most of Australia seems to be following the bigger-is-better breast trend made popular by celebrities. Yet one of the most surprising findings revealed by the Costhetics survey was that breast reduction rather than augmentation is the most-performed procedure in South Australia (along with liposuction).

Breast-reduction surgery and liposuction each make up 2.85% of cosmetic-surgery procedures in South Australia. Only breastreduction surgery, however, is performed for medical as well as cosmetic reasons. The procedure is known as reduction mammoplasty. It helps alleviate the physical and emotional discomfort associated with large, pendulous breasts, including: ! Back, neck and shoulder pain ! Skin irritation beneath the breast crease ! Restricted activities ! Self-consciousness ! Embarrassment

Proboscis Primus: The Nose is News in the Northern Territory

VICTORIA:

! ! ! !

WESTERN AUSTRALIA:

! ! ! !

The 0.7 per cent Solution – Cosmetic Surgery Procedures that Make the Cut Where does this leave many of the other aesthetic enhancement procedures in Australia? They're in a dead heat. In the majority of States, the following procedures earned just 0.7% of the vote:

NSW:

! ! !

Tummy Tuck Blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery) Face Lift

QUEENSLAND:

!

Rhinoplasty

SOUTH AUSTRALIA:

! ! ! ! !

Breast Augmentation Tummy Tuck Hair Transplant Facelift Rhinoplasty

Breast Augmentation Breast Reduction Breast Lift Rhinoplasty

A total of 400 people provided responses to the Costhetics beauty status survey. Of those, 60 per cent were female and 40 per cent were male.

The majority of respondents were aged between 20 and 30.

However, adults of all ages participated, including seniors over 60.

Costhetics Looks Into the Future of Cosmetic Surgery in Australia In its 2012-2013 census, the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery revealed that cosmetic practices are growing in popularity by up to 30% each year. Some factors that are fuelling these trends were identified as follows:

!

Acceptability – Cosmetic enhancement has come out of the closet with a vengeance. Celebrities talking candidly about various nips and tucks have helped de-stigmatise cosmetic surgery for women, and for men, too. Cosmetic enhancement is now considered common place for a much broader consumer age group and socio-economic backgrounds, as more and more average people are becoming more familiar with options and choices and what they can offer them.

!

Affordability – Both surgical and non-surgical procedures have become more affordable, due, in part, to advances in technologies, and as this market sector grows, so more affordable options are made available.

!

Reliability – Improvements in technologies and techniques enable practitioners to achieve softer and more natural outcomes, which become more attractive to a broader consumer base.

As in South Australia, breast augmentation is not a popular procedure in the Northern Territory. There, the only cosmetic surgery to rank in our survey was rhinoplasty.

Like breast reduction, nose surgery has both medical and cosmetic benefits. By redesigning the size, shape and position of a patient's nose, facial cosmetic surgeons are helping patients in the following way: ! Bring balance to facial features ! Correct injury ! Improve breathing ! Improves sleep quality ! Elevate self-esteem

Rhinoplasty Tummy Tuck Breast Reconstruction Hair Transplant

With their regular surveys and on-going evaluation of consumer trends and industry developments Costhetics is identifying an increased interest and uptake of procedures in body contouring and facial rejuvenation.

Costhetics is Australia's leading independent information source for cosmetic surgery, non-surgical cosmetic treatments and the latest in industry advancements. The online portal aims to inform and educate Australians on all aspects of cosmetic enhancement by providing detailed and unbiased information.

Article submitted by Costhetics. For more information visit: www.costhetics.com.au To speak to Louisa Mckay from Costhetics please call Gina Fink at Savage PR on 0414 383 917 or email gina@savagepr.com.au

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Combination Therapies for

EYE REJUVENATION

by Dr Ingrid Tall

The trend and popularity for improving one's appearance is constantly on the rise not just with women, but also men who are now also seeking services that can improve age-related concerns.

Skin-rejuvenation techniques have come a long way in recent years – both through traditional aesthetic therapies as well as clinical procedures. However, the new trend is for a natural outcome that does not betray that anything has been done, both surgically or otherwise. With advances in technology, new innovative solutions that provide a greater variety of outcomes are now able to achieve subtle, yet appealing improvements in appearance enhancement.

Understanding the scope of possibilities of these advances, both aesthetic tools and the more invasive ones, is important to every

practitioner so that they can direct their clients and assist them to gain maximum treatment outcome to their ultimate satisfaction.

Dr Ingrid Tall has years of experience in a variety of innovative techniques. In this article she explores the possibilities of combination therapies to achieve successful eye rejuvenation.

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The clichĂŠ the 'eyes are the window to the soul' is a truism because this is the landing zone of visual interaction between people. Impressions are made within microseconds and first impressions are vitally important to how we relate as human beings, and the eyes are the first target when that initial connection is made.

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If a person's eyes are lacklustre, sad looking, sunken with dark rings, then they tend to look tired, unwell, aged or simply that they have had a 'hard life'.

As we age the brows become increasingly heavy, lines develop under the eyes, crow's feet become more prominent, infraorbital fat bulges or fat pads herniate out from directly under the eyes and below this the opposite happens, where subcutaneous fat and fat pads atrophy with age and drop over time to create hollowing under the eyes. The juxtaposition of the convexity of the fat bulges and the concavity of the enhanced tear duct trough underneath this creates a 'lack of smoothness' and smoothness and flowing curves is the quintessence of youth.

There is not much in cosmetic medicine that is 'perfect', despite expectations from clients that cosmetic interventions and results are dramatic and virtually free of sideeffects or complications. One treatment modality is often not enough to achieve their expectations and address problems but a multiple-solution approach often offers a superior result. A combination of treatments to rejuvenation of the eye area is outlined below.

compromise their appearance could also be the underlying muscle and blood vessels and the deoxygenated haemoglobin in the blood vessels that can darken the complexion further in this area. Addressing the pigmentation, vascularity and texture of the periorbital skin will lead to cosmetic improvement.

Pigmentation under the eyes can be improved by a variety of methods. A simple method may be addressing 'atopic shiners' and encouraging allergy-prone people to minimise rubbing the skin under their eyes. Melanocytes or pigment-producing cells are stimulated by trauma and inflammation and physical trauma such as vigorous rubbing of itchy eyes can stimulate melanin production. Sun protection is of course a 'no brainer', however, much of the damage from the sun has usually already been done in early childhood and most appearance and health-conscious people these days are diligent with sun protection.

SURGERY Blepharoplasty, or upper or lower eyelid surgery, has been the mainstay of Before BOTOX eyes After BOTOX eyes periorbital rejuvenation for many years, however, clients are often reluctant to go under the 'knife' due to fear of complications, or to the downtime required of often up to two weeks. With the boom in cosmetic medicine, conservative non-surgical treatments are becoming increasingly popular. Having said that, blepharoplasty remains in the Before tearduct filler After tearduct filler top three plastic surgery procedures performed and results are usually edifying and successful. The CLINICAL SOLUTIONS procedure involves removing excess or redundant skin and the Existing pigmentation can be improved with fading creams such skin is surgically tightened and bulging fat pads are surgically as 2 to 4% hydroquinone, and cosmeceutical skin agents such as excised. Scars are usually successfully hidden in skin folds and Vitamin A and C. IPL can be used in lighter-skinned people creases.

(Fitzpatrick 1 to 4) and Q switched Nd Yag laser in darker-

HOLLOWS AND DARK RINGS UNDER THE EYES Hollows under the eyes are often blamed on 'lack of sleep' or alcohol excess, but they are usually due more to genetics than anything else.

Although a very common presentation at a cosmetic clinic, treating dark circles under the eyes is a challenge. The skin around the eyes is the thinnest than anywhere on the body and eyelids do not have any subcutaneous fat tissue. The under-eye area loses it scaffolding with age faster due to its 'flimsy' structure and is prone to fine lines and wrinkles due to excessive movement with smiling, crying and general expressive movements.

Dark circles under the eyes are due to a combination of factors.

They may be due to pigmentation of the skin, the bluish orbicularis oculi muscle showing through the thin, translucent skin in this area and blood vessels or increased vascularity in the area. The eyes are the 'window to the soul' so they are very much an important focal point for most people. Changes that can

skinned people (Fitzpatrick 3 to 6). Pulling down the infraorbital skin while wearing eye-protection goggles can increase skin exposure to light therapy, or intraocular shields can be utilised after using local anaesthetic eye drops.

'Thickening' the thin skin in this area and stimulating collagen is a challenge with fractional resurfacing (laser or radiofrequency or dermal skin needling) due to the proximity of the vulnerable eyeball and the tendency to quick and easy bruising in the area.

Platelet Rich Plasma is often used in the infraorbital area and offers relative ease of access compared to fractional resurfacing.

In this procedure, a simple blood collection is taken in the clinic.

The collected blood is spun down in a centrifuge to separate the plasma from the red blood cell component. The plasma, which is rich in platelets, is injected in the surrounding tissues to help stimulate collagen and elastin and rejuvenate the skin. After the application of numbing cream to the area to be treated, superficial blebs in the skin using a fine 32-gauge needle can help minimise bruising in the treated area. Swelling lasts usually for two to three days.

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Platelet Rich Plasma, which helps to improve the skin texture and is thought by some to improve pigmentation as well, does not, however, tend to 'volumise' an area and often dermal fillers are required to fill out the hollows under the eyes.

minimal products – 'less is more' in this area – allow for lower risk of overcompensating for the loss of volume. Hyaluronidase can be used to break down the product in this area in the event of this occurring.

Dermal fillers under the eye for orbital hollowing are increasingly utilised, but they are not without risks. They have been fraught with problems in the past such as bluish discolouration and 'bags' forming under the eyes, and every practitioner who is worth their salt and performed enough treatments in this area has encountered problems.

Techniques for dermal filling vary, however, usually the filler is inserted deep under the muscle in this area to minimise the risk of the 'bluish discolouration' which can occur due to the 'Tyndall effect', or light refracting within the filler. Sometimes a cannula or fine tube is used, but usually it is simply injected with a needle.

However, over the years results have been improving due to both increased practitioner experience in this area, lower volumes of fillers being utilised and superior dermal fillers entering the market that possess less-unpredictable water absorption, which help lower the risk of hyperinflation or 'bags' being paradoxically created in this area, such as Juvederm Volbella™.

It is now recommended that techniques that skilfully use

Extremely fine threads of hyaluronic acid can also be injected superficially into the thin skin under the eye to help hydrate the skin and lessen its translucency. Filler inferior to the tear-duct trough in the medial mid face can also enhance the treatment of dark rings and some practitioners routinely offer this with tearduct trough filling.

On completion of the treatment, it is important the client is instructed to occasionally firmly push on the area (every morning for the first two weeks and at least twice a week thereafter for at least the next year) overlying the tear-duct trough to ensure the product remains distributed in the area. Filler in this area can be massaged down by the repetitive action of orbicularis oculi muscle with smiling which can then create a 'lump' under the eye, even up to a year later. Filler in the tear duct trough area can persist for at least 18 months and often even longer.

Ultherapy BEFORE Brow

Ultherapy 30Day 1TX AFTER Brow

Dermal fillers can also be injected in the temple hollows and frown lines to help frame the eyes.

Targeting multiple areas with filler is ideal to help the aesthetic improvement flow chronologically throughout the entire face rather than treating just isolated aesthetic units of the face. This avoids the 'cognitive dissonance' of one part of the face being younger than other parts of the face.

CARBOXYTHERAPY

Ultherapy BEFORE Brow

Ultherapy BEFORE Brow

Ultherapy 180Day 1TX AFTER Brow

Ultherapy 450Day 1TX AFTER Brow

These Images Copyright © Merz Aesthetics, Inc. All rights reserved.

Carboxytherapy or carbon dioxide (CO²) injections are commonly used in Europe and South America for 'dark rings' and fine lines under the eyes and is not yet commonly available in Australia. It is a quick and simple procedure with minimal risks and discomfort to the patient. A study of 'N=1' is hardly rigorous medical evidence, however, treating my left eye with two treatments of CO² injections has had impressive results, similar to PRP months later after three treatments. After the first treatment there was a discernible reduction in the fine lines under the eyes. The lines lessened immediately under the treated eye and did not return after the reduction in temporary 'swelling'.

Neocollagenesis begins after approximately six weeks and is usually visible for most subjects around the three-month mark. My hypothesis is that the CO² gas 'shears' the tissues and physically disrupts the rhytides to soften the lines through a traumatic process, not only by

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the usual method of collagen stimulation which comes much later.

of alternative Botulinum toxin), near the vertex of their potential 'spock' to ensure this does not occur.

The CO² gas is injected into the tissues using a fine needle and a small CO² 'gun'. The area becomes immediately distended with the CO² gas causing a 'subcutaneous emphysema'. This gas is absorbed over the ensuing half to one hour and there is usually minimal residual swelling or bruising afterwards. The only consumable is the CO² gas and a small filter, which attaches to the hub of the CO² dispenser. It can be used in conjunction with dermal skin fillers simultaneously and it is often advantageous to have the filler with the concomitant local anaesthetic on board to help with the 'stinging' sensation of the gaseous distension of the tissues.

Alternative methods of raising the depressed eyebrow is through ultrasound (Ultherapy™) or radiofrequency collagen stimulation. Methods such as these employing the use of collagen stimulation have longer-lasting effects than Botulinum toxin, which needs to be performed on average every four months.

TREATING CROW'S FEET WRINKLES Traditionally Botox™ or its equivalent is used to treat crow's feet, which relax the underlying contracted orbicularis oculi muscle to minimise the concertinaing of the skin overlying the muscle. The results are gratifying and reproducible in most hands.

As we age the skin tends to become thinner in the area and the effects of Botulinum toxin in sexagenarians and beyond is not as gratifying due to the skin not adhering as firmly to the underlying muscle. Filler can be infiltrated to help 'thicken' up the tissues in the upper cheek area to make the skin look less crepey. The filler can be fanned in this area with a cannula, which helps improve the skin texture and integrity and can also help bolster the upper cheek area subtly as well. The crow's feet lines can only be rarely 'directly' injected by threading the filler underneath them as this can lead to a 'fishing-line' effect unless the filler is placed deeply enough or the lines themselves are very deep and can absorb the filler without it showing through the skin.

Collagen stimulation therapies such as Ultherapy™ or Fractional Resurfacing (laser, radiofrequency or dermal rollering) can also subtly help, but the first line treatment is still Botulinum toxin in this area.

BROW LIFTING The eyebrows start descending from the late 20's, which creates an increasingly tired look. The most common way to counteract this is using Botulinum toxin as a chemical brow lifter. Clients often love this effect of lifting their eyebrows. Botulinum toxin can selectively elevate the medial or lateral aspect of the brow and brow sculpting with 'flared, horizontal or arc' brows is possible in skilled and experienced hands. As they age, the brow elevation can lead to paradoxically creating more lines above their lateral eyebrows due to the elevated brows pushing the thinner lateral forehead skin together. Clients are often stuck between a 'rock and a hard place' having to choose between more lateral forehead lines or a refreshed elevated brow. Recently, improved dermal skin fillers such as Juvederm Volift™ can soften these lines to ameliorate the situation.

Too much eyebrow elevation can give that 'scary, starey Botox™' look, commonly referred to as 'spocking' after Mr Spock in Star Trek. Even in the most experienced hands, this can be difficult to predict or avoid. Clients who have experienced this previously should always be treated with a 'preventative' or 'despocking' prophylactic shot of Botulinum toxin (approximately half a unit of Botox™ in each site or equivalent

Dermal fillers are also used for subtle brow lifting and are increasingly commonly performed, especially in Asian populations who are keen to emulate Western and European features by enhancing roundness and curves. As features progressively flatten with age, dermal fillers can re-contour and drape the skin to emulate youthful features.

Cosmetic medicine has even encroached in the eyelashextension area. Longer eyelashes have a powerful, endearing effect on the appearance as evidenced by the prolific rash of eyelash extensions by beauty therapists. Mascara-like medical applications can emulate longer eyelashes by inhibiting them falling out. Latisse™ is awaiting TGA approval and other products are available on the market. Some practitioners go 'off label' and use a topical application on the eyelashes of glaucoma medication drops such as Lumigan™ which generates longer eyelashes usually within a couple of weeks.

The aesthetic centre point of the face can be approached from multiple standpoints and utilising 'combination' therapy is ideal to maximise the cosmetic outcome for the client. If you only have a hammer, then you only use a nail, while there is so much to choose from in the modern cosmetic 'toolbox'.

Dr Ingrid Tall MBBS, DIP COMN, FRACGP, FCPCA Dr Tall is a cosmetic doctor and General Practitioner, former AMA Qld President and TV Medical Journalist, who has over 20 years' experience in the cosmetic medicine industry.Cosmetic Image Clinics has been operating for more than eight years in the Brisbane CBD. She has been at the helm of the business since 2011 and in that time it has grown from Dr Ingrid Tall a two-room practice offering cosmetic medicine and surgery to the modern 1250m² multimodality, award-winning Medispa with full cosmetic injectable and surgical options along with a fitness centre, bathhouse, physiotherapy treatment options and Day Spa. She is a frequent speaker at medical conferences and will also be a speaker at the APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE in May at the Stamford Plaza in Brisbane. For further information on her lecture please see pages 46-49.

For information on Dr Ingrid Tall visit http://cosmeticimageclinics.com.au/

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productperformers

BUSINESS NEWS

Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

FAKING MENTAL ILLNESS IN THE WORKPLACE Throughout our consultations with business owners we sometimes encounter someone who is having to deal with disruptive behaviour, and while they are concerned not to be in breach of Fair Work regulations they are often the victim of staff manipulation. It is amazing but often businesses that employ highly problematic staff are characteristically highly compassionate and caring individuals. As a result, even if they identify a potential disruptive conduct in a potential staff member their alarm bells do not go off, instead they are often quick to dismiss it as being temporary and "If I create a positive work environment, she will come good again�.

advantage of the heightened sensitivity: the employee who fakes a disorder for their personal benefit.

There a number of ways this becomes manifest. There's the employee who goes on stress leave the moment they are given targets to reach in the salon. There's the employee who makes allegations of bullying or harassment just because a manager provided some harsh feedback or challenged them about late arrivals to work, or finishing a client too early. There's the employee who, on account of her questionable anxiety, demands she be given more breaks and a lighter workload.

Lest you think those cases are Every inauthentic assertion detracts In recent years, awareness of mental health in the workplace from the individuals who genuinely endure exaggerated, we can assure you they are not. These incidents have has ramped up – and rightly so. often led to the owners wishing to those mental illnesses but are unfairly If an employee is poorly suited quit themselves and sell the to a job, the job can sometimes confronted by misplaced cynicism. business.

These incidents contribute to their inability to unfortunately are on the rise.

The consequence is that every cope. So it's great that initiatives such as R U OK Days are inauthentic assertion detracts from the individuals who introduced. R U OK is an annual day in September (the second genuinely endure those mental illnesses but are unfairly Thursday) dedicated to remind people to ask family, friends and confronted by misplaced cynicism. colleagues the question, "R U OK?" in a meaningful way, because connecting regularly and meaningfully is one thing The challenge for many businesses is to be able to tell the everyone can do to make a difference to anyone who might be difference between a legitimate from those who are not. There's struggling. R U OK Days are becoming widespread. This, even a term for it: malingered psychopathology. It is therefore however, has given rise to the type of employee willing to take important that managers learn to detect fake psychopathology.

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To understand the ways in which it can be detected, we need to go back more than 30 years to the important work by Professor Phillip Resnick​. In an analysis published in Behavioural Sciences & The Law, an academic journal, he lists 28 clues that indicate an individual is 'malingering'. Some of these include: ! They overact ! They call attention to their illnesses, often repeating themselves ! They tell far-fetched stories littered with contradictions ! They consider themselves blameless ! They say they're unable to work but carry on fine in their personal life ! They seem evasive and uncertain ! They have a history of similar behaviour with previous employers ! They avoid formal examinations and therapeutic solutions Malingering is an area of study usually focused on those who pretend they have a disorder in order to escape jail ("I plead insanity!") or to gain social security benefits. Its manifestation in the workplace was given extensive attention by forensic psychiatrist Liza​ Gold and legal scholar Daniel Shuman​ in their 2009 book, Evaluating Mental Health Disability in the Workplace.

Their analysis concludes that malingering employees are less likely to entirely fabricate their symptoms and more likely to just exaggerate them. Either way, when outlining how these false impairments can be spotted, the authors advise that one telltale

sign is that "the disability is attributed to a specific work circumstance, such as a personality conflict with a supervisor".

They caution, however, that only an interview with a trained professional can determine the veracity or otherwise of these claims. Even psychometric testing can't always be trusted.

(People, after all, can lie on those, too.) An interview, in contrast, enables a psychologist to assess not only what an individual says, but also how they say it and what they look like when they're saying it.

If you're keen to avoid malingered psychopathology in your workplace, there's one solution that appears to have been tested frequently with great effect: issue a warning to those you suspect are faking it.

Proof that this works was demonstrated in a study conducted several years ago by researchers at Queensland University of Technology. In a controlled experiment, they discovered that when malingerers are warned verbally and in writing that there are severe consequences should they be caught feigning their illness, they're subsequently less likely to do it.

Business owners need to therefore utilise warning letters to discourage misconduct. If you do not have appropriate templates for these please contact APAN, we have these available as part of our business management resources.

R e a d m o r e : h t t p : / / w w w. t h e a g e . c o m . a u / s m a l l business/managing/work-in-progress/mental-illness-whosfaking-it-20160121-gmay8u.html#ixzz41AZn1qOp

Four lessons in business success from Adore Beauty founder Kate Morris Not enough business owners speak openly about how tough it is to start up and run a successful business, according to the founder of Australia’s first online beauty retailer.

Speaking at the Above All Human conference in Melbourne in February, Adore Beauty founder Kate Morris said the idea that entrepreneurs find success overnight is a myth. While Adore Beauty now turns over around $14 million, the business has come a long way since starting in Morris’s garage 16 years ago.

Here are four of her tips for business success: 1. Recognise that business is a hard slog. Morris told conference attendees many businesses don’t get off the ground and soon fail after launching, but that’s OK. “This is the truth for so many businesses,” Morris says.

“Ninety-nine point nine per cent of us are not going to be Atlassian. For most businesses, the ones that survive and eventually find some success, it’s a really long story of slow grind, patience and persistence to eventually get to that growth.”

2. Have a strong vision. Morris says having a strong vision has helped her steer her company through the good times as well as bad. “This is what is going to get you through those long and slow years,” she says.

“When I went to uni I got a job working on the beauty counters. It was there I realised most women found the whole experience really intimidating – there was this high-pressure sales environment, a scary saleswoman looking down their nose at you.

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“I thought this didn’t make sense. The products are meant to make you feel empowered and fantastic but the shopping experience makes you feel the opposite.”

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3. Be persistent. Adore Beauty snapped up its first employee in 2005. At the same time consumers were starting to embrace online shopping more. However, in the previous five years

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countless brands knocked Morris back. The lesson, she says, is for entrepreneurs to stick to their guns.

“Eventually everybody says yes,” she says. “Except Chanel. But that’s another story.”

4. Understand you will have your ups and downs, but have strategies to cope. At the end of 2010 Adore Beauty had around $2 million in turnover, but Morris says she was feeling a bit stuck. “They’d just given me Telstra Young Businesswoman of the Year Award, but I didn’t know if I was the right person to be running this business anymore,” she says.

didn’t know what to do next. I thought maybe I should hire a CEO or just chuck it in and move on.” Fortunately, Morris saw a business coach ,which helped her “turn the lights back on”. “I hadn’t realised how bad it had gotten,” she says.

“I reconnected with my passion and purpose and all of a sudden I knew what I had to do. I knew the time was right to pull out all the stops and take some big steps on the brands I was missing and finally invest in some marketing.”

Sometimes it takes external expert advice to help you identify why you are stuck, reignite your passion and what you need to do next.

“I didn’t know where the growth was going to come from, I

ACCC RECEIVES 5000 COMPLAINTS FROM SMALL BUSINESS The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission is continuing to focus upon misleading and deceptive conduct complaints from small businesses, as revealed in the latest biannual Small business in focus report.

This report, the 11th in the series, highlights some of the ACCC’s key work in the small business and franchising sectors between 1 July and 31 December 2015. It also contains the latest small business and franchising complaints data.

“Over the last six months, the ACCC received almost 5,000 complaints from small businesses. Concerns about misleading conduct remain the biggest issue for small businesses,” ACCC Deputy Chair Dr Michael Schaper said.

“Conduct resulting in substantial small business detriment has been a priority for the ACCC and we want to make it clear that this type of conduct is unacceptable.”

In November, the ACCC achieved a significant court outcome when Safety Compliance Pty Ltd was ordered to pay a penalty of $515,000 for making false or misleading representations to small businesses in connection with the supply of safety wall charts and first-aid kits.

In December, the Federal Court ordered the franchisor of the Electrodry Carpet Cleaning business to pay total penalties of $215,000 for its involvement in the publishing of fake testimonials on the internet.

“While online testimonials can be a useful and genuine marketing tool for businesses to advertise to consumers, deliberately making or inducing false or misleading representations in testimonials breaches the Australian Consumer Law and confers an unfair advantage when competing against businesses that do the right thing,” Dr Schaper said.

The report also outlines the ACCC’s recent and upcoming activities to help businesses understand their rights and responsibilities under the new business-to-business unfair contract terms protections.

The ACCC small business webinars are regularly conducted to help businesses understand the legislation.

“In the beauty and aesthetics industry misleading conduct is directly related to what you say your products or treatments can do,” Tina Viney said.

“For example, if a friend brags about you on your Facebook in an exaggerated manner, this can be interpreted as misleading conduct by you, as you are responsible for what is said on your Facebook page.

“If you use pictures to support a treatment outcome that are not yours, this is also misleading conduct. Such practices can get you into a lot of trouble.” Tina warns. Also if they are used without permission you are violating copyright laws.

APAN has a document that helps you understand this section of the legislation. If you are unsure, please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 for assistance.

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THREE SIGNS AN EMPLOYEE IS GOING TO LEAVE YOUR BUSINESS Having a staff member throw in the towel can be bad for a business’s bottom line, but luckily there are times when the warning signs are relatively easy to spot, according to one serial entrepreneur.

In a blog post on LinkedIn, James Caan, the founder of equity firm Hamilton Bradshaw, says business owners and managers need to be constantly on the lookout for any changes in morale or productivity. This is because when a staff member leaves, it doesn’t just affect that person. Their departure may upset other staff members, who may feel like they have lost the person they looked forward to catching up with each day. Changing staff can also be disruptive to your clients as a service provider.

Then there’s the time and money spent on looking for new employees as well as training them. Because of this, staff turnover is a massive issue for small business owners. A recent study found Australian employers were losing $20 billion a year on employee churn.

productivity is on the decline this will allow you to talk to them and determine if there is something bothering them that can be rectified.

2. Look out for negativity: If you identify moodiness, cynicism or negativity these are all bad signs that indicate dissatisfaction or a problem, either within the work environment or in their personal life. As the owner you need to nip this in the butt, investigate the reason and provide a solution that will assist them, but also not compromise their performance in the workplace.

3. Observing a person's social interaction: Caan also points out that if an employee is no longer interacting with other staff members at social events like work drinks, this could also be a sign they are considering leaving. "When someone is deliberating their future prospects, they are often on edge and reluctant to share these feelings with colleagues,” he says.

According to Caan there are three things business owners can do to make sure a resignation doesn’t take them by surprise. These include:

“Spending time with them outside of work could be too risky as they may slip up and admit something they’re avoiding.” So with this in mind, what can business owners do to prevent people from reaching this point?

1. Monitor productivity: Set goals together with your staff members and evaluate their performance regularly to determine their productivity and continued interest in their work. If their

“The important thing is to always ensure your staff are happy, feel motivated and valued in their role,” Caan says. “If you don’t do this, your talent retention strategy needs a serious rethink.”

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

AGEING SKIN MAY BECOME A THING OF THE PAST AS SCIENTISTS HAIL BREAKTHROUGH IN FIGHT AGAINST WRINKLES A breakthrough in understanding human skin cells offers a pathway for new anti-ageing treatments.

“There is now a possibility of finding anti-ageing treatments which can be tailored to differently aged and differently pigmented skin,” says Professor Mark Birch-Machin.

For the first time, scientists at Newcastle University have identified that the activity of a key metabolic enzyme found in the batteries of human skin cells declines with age.

A study, published online in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, has found that the activity of mitochondrial complex II significantly decreases in older skin. This discovery brings experts a step closer to developing powerful anti-ageing treatments and cosmetic products which may be tailored to counteract the decline in the enzyme’s activity levels.

Paving the way for drug developments Findings may also lead to a greater understanding of how other organs in the body age, which could pave the way for drug developments in a number of age-related diseases, including

cancer. Mark Birch-Machin, Professor of Molecular Dermatology at Newcastle University, led the pioneering study with Dr Amy Bowman from his research group. Professor BirchMachin said: “As our bodies age we see that the batteries in our cells run down, known as decreased bio-energy, and harmful free radicals increase.

“This process is easily seen in our skin as increased fine lines, wrinkles and sagging appears. You know the story, or at least your mirror does first thing in the morning!

“Our study shows, for the first time, in human skin that with increasing age there is a specific decrease in the activity of a key metabolic enzyme found in the batteries of the skin cells. “This enzyme is the hinge between the two important ways of making energy in our cells and a decrease in its activity contributes to decreased bio-energy in ageing skin.

“Our research means that we now have a specific biomarker, or a target, for developing and screening anti-ageing treatments and cosmetic creams that may counter this decline in bio-energy.

“There is now a possibility of finding anti-ageing treatments

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which can be tailored to differently aged and differently pigmented skin, and with the additional possibility to address the ageing process elsewhere in our bodies.”

Enzyme activity declines with age Complex II activity was measured in 27 donors, from aged six to 72 years. Samples were taken from a sun-protected area of skin to determine if there was a difference in activity with increasing age.

mitochondria play an important role in the ageing process, however the exact role has remained unclear.

“Our work brings us one step closer to understanding how these vital cell structures may be contributing to human ageing, with the hope of eventually specifically targeting areas of the mitochondria in an attempt to counteract the signs of ageing.”

Techniques were used to measure the activities of the key enzymes within mitochondria that are involved in producing the skin cell’s energy, a type of mitochondrial gym or skin physical.

This was applied to cells derived from the upper (epidermis) and lower (dermis) levels of skin.

A recent study carried out in mice showed that complex II activity is lower in the skin of naturally aged older mice compared to younger mice. The mitochondrial complex II research was funded by the North Eastern Skin Research Fund, the NIHR Biomedical Research Centre at Newcastle University and Newcastle Upon Tyne Hospital’s NHS Foundation Trust and Newcastle University’s Faculty of Medical Sciences.

It was found that complex II activity significantly declined with age, per unit of mitochondria, in the cells derived from the lower rather than the upper levels, an observation not previously reported for human skin. The scientists found that the reason for this is the amount of enzyme protein was decreased and furthermore this decrease was only observed in those cells that had stopped proliferating.

This research is part of Newcastle University’s response to the challenges and opportunities presented by an ageing population.

Newcastle University is a world leader in the field at its Campus for Ageing and Vitality, which is supported by the National Institute for Health Research Biomedical Research Centre and the location for a new £40m National Centre for Ageing Science and Innovation (NASI).

Further studies will now be required to fully understand the functional consequences in skin and other tissues, and to establish methods to assess anti-ageing strategies in human skin.

Dr Bowman, Research Associate at Newcastle University’s Institute of Cellular Medicine, said: “Newcastle University is pioneering research into ageing as it has long been thought that

Reference: Age-Dependent Decrease of Mitochondrial Complex II Activity in Human Skin Fibroblasts Amy Bowman and Mark A. Birch-Machin Ref: Journal of Investigative Dermatology. Doi: 10.1016/j.jid.2016.01.017

NEW AUSTRALIAN RESEARCH SHOWS

KYOLIC AGED GARLIC EXTRACT REDUCES BLOOD PRESSURE High blood pressure is known as the silent killer as if undetected it can contribute to strokes and heart failure. It terms of the skin, high blood pressure can also compromise skin health through inflammation that can contribute to accelerated ageing of the skin with the onset of lines and wrinkles.

The study found that a daily dose of Kyolic Aged Garlic Extract was enough to reduce systolic blood pressure by an average of 11.3 millimetres of mercury systolic and 6.3 mm Hg diastolic – which is comparable to the effect of many commonly prescribed anti-hypertensive medicines.

A new Australian study has found that Kyolic Aged Garlic Extract significantly reduces blood pressure in Australian adults with hypertension, offering hope to those who don’t respond well to prescription medications or would prefer a natural therapy. The 12-week study, published this January in the Journal of Integrated Blood Pressure Control (January 2016 edition), was led by Associate Professor Karin Ried, Research Director at the National Institute of Integrative Medicine who has been researching the health benefits for the past 10 years.

This is significant because a reduction in systolic blood pressure by this rate contributes to a significantly lower risk of cardiovascular disease, such as heart attacks and strokes, which claimed the lives of 43,603 Australians (30 per cent of all deaths) in 2013 and kills one Australian every 12 minutes.ii Each year, around 55,000 Australians suffer a heart attack or one heart attack every 10 minutes.iii High blood pressure is an important risk factor for cardiovascular disease. It’s to be linked to 70 per cent of heart attacks, strokes, and chronic heart failure.iv,v

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“These results strengthen and provide more robust evidence supporting the use of Kyolic Aged Garlic Extract as a highly tolerable and effective adjunct natural treatment for hypertension, without increasing the risk of bleeding inpatients on blood thinning medication.”

“This study used a high potency formula of Kyolic Aged Garlic Extract with more potent active ingredients, fewer side effects, and better standardisation of dosage than fresh garlic or other types of garlic supplements, such as garlic oil and garlic powder,” Dr Ried said. i.

Ried K, Travica N, Sali A Integrated Blood Pressure Control 27 January 2016 Volume 2016:9 P

ii.

http://heartfoundation.org.au/about-us/what-wedo/heart-disease-in-australia iii. http://www.heartfoundation.org.au/information-forprofessionals/data-and-statistics/Pages/default.aspx iv. Lawes CM, Vander Hoorn S, Rodgers A. Global burden of bloodpressure-related disease, 2001. Lancet 2008;371:1513–8. v. Martiniuk AL, Lee CM, Lawes CM, Ueshima H, Suh I, Lam TH, Gu D, Feigin V, Jamrozik K, Ohkubo T, et al.

Hypertension: its prevalence and populationattributable fraction for mortality from cardiovascular disease in the Asia-Pacific region. J Hypertens 2007;25:73–9. Laser lipolysis enhances body contouring and sculpting

PROBIOTICS FOR SKIN HEALTH Skin is the largest organ in the human body, and as such is an indicator of the overall level of health and wellbeing in individuals. Probiotics are live bacteria and yeast that are beneficial to health, especially the digestive system, including skin health.

Moreover, probiotics contribute distinct advantages for skin disorders. It has already been proven that probiotics perform a role in skin heath, such as reconstructing atopic dermatitis, promoting the healing of scars and burns, rejuvenating the skin and strengthening the skin’s innate immunity. For those acne sufferers who have unhealthy guts, supplementing with probiotics, particularly lactobacillus acidophilus and the yeast saccharomyces cerevisiae, will often improve their acne. Eczema and psoriasis, have been proven to be benefited by probiotics. Eczema is a condition that causes the skin to become itchy, red, dry and cracked. It is a long-term or chronic condition in most people, although it can improve over time, especially in children. Probiotics have also been shown to improve eczema symptoms in patients suffering from the condition. Psoriasis is another skin disorder, linked to inflammation, where oral probiotics have been proven to be beneficial.

If these disorders can be saved by probiotics, is it a far stretch to assume that those advantages can extend further, to ageing skin, as it is a well-known fact that skin ageing is also attributed to ongoing low-level inflammation.

Gut bacteria elevates the human immune system. Having a strong immune system benefits all organs of the body, including the skin. There are about 100 million microbes (bacteria, fungi and viruses) that live on and in the human body. Skin is literally moving slowly with bacteria.

Presently, experts are assessing whether these interactions can diminish skin inflammation such as rosacea and promote

collagen production, as well as examining if tropical products that have probiotic content are more efficient for skin health than oral probiotics. Researchers have recommended that probiotics can benefit skin not only through the digestive tract, but also when given in tropical applications such as creams or lotions.

Here are some of the results of their findings: Wrinkle Prevention: Good bacteria in the gut can help eliminate the toxins and free radicals that can damage skin and cause early signs of ageing. Introducing probiotics will not only flush out bodily toxins, but repair the harmful damage caused by free radicals, as well. It may offer some hope in slowing down the visible proof of all of those years of life experience.

Strengthen Skin Barrier: Probiotics have been proven to strengthen the skin’s barrier function. The skin plays as a physical barrier to safeguard the internal organs and keep out pathogens and other toxins. Not only are there microflora that live in the human gut, but there is also a skin microbiome, with friendly microorganisms for protection. The skin microbiome has been shown to protect against unfriendly bacteria, pollution and free radicals, all of which can accelerate ageing.

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Moisturise: Probiotics help skin to uphold moisture. Wellhydrated skin makes wrinkles less visible. As discussed above, skin cream containing streptococcus thermophiles was found to increase moisture in the skin of ageing women.

Sun Damage: Probiotics can help protect skin against damaging UV rays that can cause premature skin ageing and wrinkles. There has not been much research into this area, but what has been found is extremely promising.

Rosacea: There is no final medical consensus about what causes this condition, but it can become quite noticeable and cause distress to the person suffering from it. It typically appears between the ages of 30 and 60 and is much more common in women than in men. Eventually, it may even affect the shape of the nose, causing it to swell and get bumpy. Studies have shown that probiotics, applied directly to the skin and taken internally, can improve and prevent rosacea.

There are many conventional treatments that are commonly recommended, such as avoiding triggers that irritate the symptoms for example: stress, spicy food, sun alcohol or heat), prescription medications (containing antibiotics or anti-inflammatory steroids or birth-control pills).

Oral Probiotics and the Gut-Brain Skin Axis Since the 1930s, scientists have been discussing about the gut-brain skin axis. The approach behind it is that stress alone or stress in combination with a poor diet can affect the healthy bacteria residing in the gut, causing unfriendly bacteria to start to outnumber the probiotic bacteria that normally reside there. Eventually, the integrity of the gut lining is affected by this and toxins “leak out� from the gut and into the body, causing inflammation that can trigger rosacea.

Another line of evidence suggesting a connection between the gut and skin is the observation that probiotics improve skin conditions. Oral probiotics have been shown to decrease lipopolysaccharide, improve intestinal barrier function and reduce inflammation.

The beneficial effect of probioitics on skin may explain why pasteurised, unfermented dairy is associated with acne, but fermented dairy is not. Orally consumed probiotics reduce systemic markers of inflammation and oxidative stress, both of which are elevated locally in those with acne. Oral probiotics can also regulate the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines within the skin.

Ref: Di Marzio L, Cinque B, Cupelli F, De Simone C, Cifone MG, Giuliani M (2008) Increase of skin-ceramide levels in aged subjects following a short-term topical application of bacterial sphingomyelinase from Streptococcus thermophilus. Int J Immunopathol Pharmacol 21 (1):137–143 The British Journal of Dermatology. 2010; 163(3):536-543. http://articles.mercola.com/sites/articles/archive/2010/11/1 1/probiotics-send-signals-from-your-gut-to-your-skin.aspx http://bodyecology.com/articles/look_younger_and_better _with_probiotics.php

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The vampire facial is done through microneedling, says Beverly Hills facial plastic surgeon Dr. Paul Nassif. A microneedling device punctures the skin with tiny needles to inspire collagen production. Then PRP is injected to boost the skin’s natural healing process with plasma’s rejuvenating properties. For best results with the vampire facial, Dr. Nassif suggests an initial course of treatment of three to four visits every four to six weeks.

The vampire facelift is done through injection (so no microneedling) and is often combined with another dermal filler like Restylane or Juvederm. Injections may target the eyes, cheeks, or entire face. “Patients will see immediate results with PRP injection plus fillers,” says Dr. Nassif. Similar to any hyaluronic acid injection, the results last up to nine months and can be repeated indefinitely.

What to Expect: Despite making for a great Halloween selfie,

Is Your Own Blood The Secret To Great Skin?

UNDERSTANDING THE VAMPIRE FACIAL Beauty enthusiasts learnt long ago not to be afraid of needles.

Now, they’re taking it a step further with platelet-rich plasma (PRP) treatments, commonly known as the “vampire” facelift and “vampire” facial. Patients may start out looking like Dracula’s latest victim, but plastic surgeons say these increasingly popular though little researched treatments leave clients with smooth, plump and rejuvenated skin.

And while it’s been several years since Kim Kardashian’s infamous on-screen treatment, popularity for vampire treatments is only picking up. RealSelf has seen a 25% increase in visits to the topic compared to last year. Among those users, 63% of visits came from people aged 35 and older. That’s 15 percentage points higher than the typical traffic from this demographic to RealSelf.

What Is Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP)?

Platelets are the blood’s emergency responders. They contain growth factors and healing properties that boost the immune system. To harness those platelets, doctors start with something common at many medical visits: a blood draw. That blood is then spun through a centrifugal processing system to separate the platelets from the red blood cells, creating a serum from the remaining plasma. The resulting plasma is injected back into the skin.

The Facial vs. The Facelift: Both the vampire facial and vampire facelift use PRP to plump skin. The difference is in the delivery.

vampire facials and facelifts are only as painful as a round of Botox (which is to say, not very). “The worst part for me was getting the blood drawn,” one RealSelf user wrote in her review.

Don’t worry too much about immediate after-effects either, says Charlotte’s Book expert and New York dermatological surgeon Dr. Mitchell Kline. “Most patients can return to normal activity the following day,” he says. “Some feel comfortable resuming normal activities even later that day, however, just one day later the redness is almost gone.”

It is worth it? More than 80% of RealSelf users who have tried them recommend the treatments. That aligns with what Charlotte’s Book expert and dermatologist Dr. Amanda Doyle sees at her New York City practice. Dr. Doyle regularly administers the vampire facial and has noticed marked improvement in her patients.

“Benefits build over time with each additional treatment,” she says. “Results aren’t usually noticeable until after a few treatments, but based on my experience, improvements can be noticeable earlier in some patients.”

It’s when only PRP is used that users report mixed results. “I never saw ONE BIT of difference in my skin,” writes one 64year-old in North Carolina. Compare that to this glowing review from a woman in Georgia: “My face looks so refreshed and rejuvenated and the fine lines and wrinkles have diminished.”

If you’re researching PRP, keep in mind that the treatment has only been FDA approved for sports medicine and, Dr. Nassif points out, there are no clinical studies that explore how effective PRP is when used alone. For this reason, many doctors prefer to enhance PRP, if they perform it at all. Dr. Sadati, for example, typically combines PRP with fatty tissue before injecting it into the face. “I don’t personally believe that PRP refreshes the skin on its own,” he says, pointing to a clinical study he conducted in 2006. Of 580 patients, all showed “greater graft volume retention” (a.k.a. fresher, fuller results) when fat was used in the treatment.

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Here’s the takeaway: A vampire facelift or facial can tackle specific wrinkles, provide an alternative to injectable fillers, and, perhaps most importantly, provide an all-around facial boost.

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APAN ACCREDITED COSMETIC TATTOO TRAINING SYDNEY – MASTER CLASS ADVANCED LIP TECHNIQUES Gaining the perfect lip shape is perhaps one of the most challenging for the cosmetic tattoo practitioner. Lip shape imbalance due to volume loss, ageing muscles and even teeth misalignment can contribute to drooping of the mouth. These and other challenges can substantially complicate issues and make it very difficult to guarantee a successful lip procedure outcome that is both aesthetically well balanced and appealing to your client.

Cost: $1500 A maximum of six students.

Location: Sydney Beauty and Dermal Institute 2/161-177 New South Head Rd, Edgecliff NSW To Register: www.apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360 for further details.

Monday 27th June 2016 In this lecture Maya will demonstrate the very latest advanced techniques in: ! Classic lip line (using advanced techniques) ! Lip-lifting techniques ! Techniques for the ageing lips ! The modern Ombre – two-phased technique using two colours (this is the latest trend for younger clients) ! Delegates will then proceed to complete a Classic lip line using the advanced techniques. ! This procedure will be fully supervised, ensuring that the practitioner masters the technique.

Practitioners will be provided with: 1. Machines 2. Pigments and all necessary products and consumables to perform their procedure, including appropriate anaesthetic 3. Detailed Notes 4. Gift bag with products 4. Professional Development Statement of Completion 5. Morning and afternoon tea and a light lunch.

This workshop will give you all the skills you need to achieve the perfect lips. Maya Ercegovac is a qualified cosmetic tattooist with 11 years’ experience, who has recently been appointed as the International Trainer for Swiss Colour. Maya is passionate about training and education and constantly invests in perfecting her own techniques through national and international training.

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aestheticawards

Inaugural MyFaceMyBody Awards Australasia The night included a high-energy entertainment program and covered 20 classifications including Brand Awards – skincare and equipment, Media Awards – Best Aesthetics Blogger and Best Practice Website as well as Practice Awards.

These included Best Aesthetic Practice, Best Customer Service and Best Practice Team.

Judges came from various spheres, including the media, medical practitioners and APAN, which was also invited to be part of the judging panel.

The Award for best Cosmeceutical Range of the Year went to the Australian brand Ultraceuticals.

Dr Geoffrey Heber, founder of Ultraceuticals, was delighted and acknowledged that this award recognises the talent and hard work of his dedicated team, and a skincare that gives real results and empowers people to achieve their best possible skin.

Following the highly successful MyFaceMyBody Awards in the UK, the first-ever MyFaceMyBody Awards Australasia was held at the Sydney Hilton on November 28th, 2015. These awards marked the introduction of new award classifications where professional judges are involved as well as consumers voting for their favourite clinic, products and technologies.

The event was hosted by MyFaceMyBody.com founder, TV personality and grooming expert Stephen Handisides.

Voted on by consumers and judged by some of the country's leading aesthetics industry experts, the glamorous awards night gave brands, beauty practices and aesthetics industry members the chance to be recognised and rewarded for their product innovation, service and reputation.

Ultraceuticals was also recognised with a Highly Commended award for 'Best Customer Service by a Manufacturer or Supplier'.

Advanced Cosmeceuticals were awarded the 'Best Plastic Surgery Product or Device' with its Lutronic Healite II, a second-generation Light Emitting Diode (LED) phototherapy system, developed by LED technology expert Dr Glen Calderhead.

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We were also thrilled to see that one of our APAN members, Advanced Body Image & Spa Lotus from Darwin, while not taking out the top award, won High Commendation, or Runnerup, which is an achievement as they were up against several cosmetic medical clinics from South Australia, Western Australia and the Northern Territory. Congratulations to Katy Sullivan and her team. Well done, ladies!

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HERE ARE THE RESULTS OF THE WINNERS AND RUNNERS-UP FOR THE 2015 AWARDS: COSMECEUTICAL RANGE OF THE YEAR Ultraceuticals – WINNER Advanced Skin Technology – Highly Commended and Jan Marini – Highly Commended

BEST ANTI-AGEING PRODUCT OR TREATMENT Advanced Skin Technology – WINNER Syneron Candela – Highly Commended

BEST SKIN-TIGHTENING PRODUCT OR TREATMENT Advanced Skin Technology – WINNER Advanced Cosmeceuticals – Highly Commended

BEST BODY-RESHAPING PROCEDURE Lumenis Australia – WINNER Cutera Australia – Highly Commended

BEST PLASTIC SURGERY PRODUCT OR DEVICE Advanced Cosmeceuticals – WINNER Allergan – Highly Commended

MOST INNOVATIVE PRODUCT OR SERVICE High Tech Laser Australia – WINNER Dermocosmetica – Highly Commended

BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE BY A MANUFACTURER OR SUPPLIER – PRESENTED BY APAN Syneron Candela – WINNER Ultraceuticals Pty LTD – Highly Commended

BEST AESTHETICS BLOGGER Plastic Surgery Hub – WINNER Dr Naomi – Highly Commended

BEST PRACTICE WEBSITE – PRESENTED BY DHI Flawless Rejuvenation Skin Clinic – WINNER Dr Naomi – Highly Commended

CLINIC AWARDS BEST PLASTIC SURGERY PRACTICE – PRESENTED BY SYNERON CANDELA Dr Michael Miroshnik – Plastic & Cosmetic Surgeon – WINNER Hunter Plastic Surgery – Highly Commended

BEST AESTHETIC PRACTICE – VIC – PRESENTED BY GALDERMA Flawless Rejuvenation Skin Clinic – WINNER Australian Skin Face Body – Highly Commended

BEST AESTHETIC PRACTICE – NSW – PRESENTED BY AUSTRALASIAN COLLEGE HEALTH AND WELLNESS Dr Michael Miroshnik – Plastic & Cosmetic Surgeon – WINNER Austin Clinic – Highly Commended

BEST AESTHETIC PRACTICE – QLD Esteem Medi Spa – WINNER The Layt Clinic – Highly Commended

BEST AESTHETIC PRACTICE – ACT The CAPS Clinic – WINNER Dr Tony Tonks – Highly Commended

BEST AESTHETIC PRACTICE – SA/WA/NT The Skin Clinic Fremantle – WINNER Advanced Body Image & Spa Lotus – Highly Commended 100

BEST AESTHETIC PRACTICE – TAS Launceston Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery Unit – WINNER Sanctum Medical Aesthetics – Highly Commended

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BEST AESTHETIC PRACTICE – NEW ZEALAND

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The Face Place MedSpa – WINNER Caci – Highly Commended

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BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE – PRESENTED BY ADVANCED COSMECEUTICALS Dr Michael Miroshnik – Plastic & Cosmetic Surgeon – WINNER Hunter Plastic Surgery – Highly Commended

BEST PRACTICE TEAM – PRESENTED BY ADVANCED SKIN TECHNOLOGY Hunter Plastic Surgery – WINNER Dr Michael Miroshnik – Plastic & Cosmetic Surgeon – Highly Commended

BEST PRACTICE MANAGER – PRESENTED BY ALPHAEON Dr Naomi – WINNER The CAPS Clinic – Highly Commended

BEST AESTHETIC PRACTICE – OVERALL Dr Michael Miroshnik – Plastic & Cosmetic Surgeon – WINNER Flawless Rejuvenation Skin Clinic – Highly Commended For further information on the 2016 MyFaceMyBody Awards visit www.myfacemybody.com/au

MyFaceMyBody Awards 2016 Entries Open: Monday 16th May 2016 Closing Date for Entries: Monday 11th July Shortlists Announced: Friday 12th August Voting Commences Voting Closes: Friday 14th October

Black Tie Awards Evening Saturday 26th November 2016 Venue: Sofitel Wentworth, Sydney.

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National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference Another Successful Event For 10 consecutive years the National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference (LCMC) has been providing medical professionals and cosmetic technicians with the knowledge and skills to assist them in keeping up to date with this rapidly expanding area of medicine. November 14-15 saw another successful conference which was staged at the beautiful Marriott Resort on the Gold Coast. The conference introduced current and new treatments, reviewed established therapies and showcased a wide range of equipment and products, that support our industry through the concurrent trade exhibition.

A pre-conference Introduction to Cosmetic Medicine Workshop was held just prior to the conference for those doctors new to the field. A Laser Safety Training Course was arranged for those who require this certificate.

Dr Sharron Phillipson was the Conference Convenor, who is also the Censor-in-Chief of the Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine.

There were several amazing speakers on numerous topics,

however, I will attempt to highlight just some of the key presenters here: Dr John Javorniczky, Senior Regulatory Officer in the Regulatory Services Branch of ARPANSA, was one of the first speakers who presented an update on the Status of the Regulations Review on the use of IPLs and Lasers.

I was particularly interested to hear his presentation and to also meet him in person as he also chairs the working group established by the Radiation Health Committee (RHC) and ARPANSA for the review on legislation pertaining to the use of lasers and IPLs. I have been working as part of this group for three years, but I had never met him in person. It was great finally meeting with him and having a face-to-face chat.

Dr Javorniczky stated that there were 263 responses to the Regulatory Impact Statement released last year for public comment, which was quite a substantial number. The response is indicating that the majority of the respondents have supported Option 3, which is for full regulations. Option 2 gained 29 submissions from the non-medical candidates, with nil

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Tina Viney with Dr John Javorniczky

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responses to Option 2 from medical candidates. At this point his update indicated that all the responses will be carefully reviewed and categorised prior to the Working Group to resume their work for the next step. He anticipated that this would happen possible late this year.

Professor Wonserk Kim spoke on the treatment of pigmentation with Q-Switched laser. He stressed the importance of identifying the causes of the pigmentation and determining exactly where the problem is located prior to deciding on treatment choices. While there are several treatment options, he stated the Q-Switch can successful improve pigmentation by 60% with just two treatments. The use of Vi t a m i n C s e r u m a n d cosmeceuticals was highly recommended as well as glycolic peels.

Professor Rodney Sinclair discussed recent advances in melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers. He stated that in 2006 melanomas had peaked, but recent studies confirm that there is now a drop in melanoma cases. however, there is concrete evidence that it is still a problem with the older group where the incidents are 10 times higher than other groups. He stated that in 2010 there was a parliamentary enquiry with the recommendations for changes to ways that patients can gain reimbursements for the treatment of skin cancers. He confirmed that over 40% of

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melanoma growths result in deaths which is still a significant concerns. Studies also confirmed that if an individual gets skin cancer they have 21% chance of getting other form of cancers.

Dr Rod Allen spoke on the Mona Lisa touch – non-surgical fractional laser for vaginal rejuvenation, which is becoming an increasingly popular procedure in addressing valvo-vaginal atrophy. He discussed that a good vagina is acidic with a pH of 3.5 to 5, however after menopause there are changes to the pH to 6-9 and this can contribute to atrophy and symptoms such as low libido, frequent night-time urination, dryness, burning, itching and decrease or lack of sensation during intercourse. The Mona Lisa Touch Vaginal Laser is a revolutionary, non-surgical, "walk in, walk out" 20-minute treatment for vaginal revitalisation, vaginal tightening and loss of elasticity and restores normal physiology.

Dr Ingrid Tall's presentation was on the benefit of combination therapies using injectables, laser, light-based therapies and cosmeceuticals to achieve better patient outcome for skin rejuvenation and a more youthful apprearance. Dr Tall was a charismatic speaker and so we invited her to also present at the APAN Aesthetic Conference in Brisbane in May. We are delighted that she accepted.

Another excellent presenter was Dr Michael Freeman who spoke on the benefits of cool-assisted lipolysis in your practice. Dr Freeman is a highly respected dermatologist and we are delighted that he will be addressing new advances in dermatology at the APAN Conference in Brisbane.

I also want to make mention of JeanMichel Huet – a French architect who spoke on important considerations in the design and fitout of your new practice.

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Michel talked about the power of branding and the elements that need to be carefully considered in outfitting a clinic. He covered issues such as colour, texture, smell, visual, functionality, space planning and storage when designing your clinic.

He presented some of the finished work that his company has accomplished and they were quite amazing. Indeed the modern clinic or salon ambience can greatly benefit in creating its own impact to clients and potential clients.

Salon and clinic architecture is indeed becoming a specialised area that can deliver some amazing transformations.

I found this event once again most resourceful with amazing networking opportunities.

Overall a wonderful opportunity to meet some amazing speakers and learn about the latest advances in technology and scientific discoveries.

The 12th National and Laser and Cosmetic Conference will be held this year on the 2-4 November 2016 at the Crowne Plaza in the Hunter Valley in NSW. For further details contact DC Conferencing P: 02 9954 4400 or E:lcmc2016@dcconferences.com.au

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taxationmatters

The Humble Tax-File Declaration

By Vanessa Kirkham

Everyone hates tax time, but it is a matter that needs to be handled correctly and in particular if you are a business.

Understanding what is required is half the stress. Vanessa Kirkham is a qualified accountant and a registered tax agent.

Her business, Olive Gray Business Solutions, offers professionals within our industry specialised bookkeeping services. With annual taxation time approaching Vanessa presents here simple guidelines to help both employees and employers better understand and complete their tax-file declaration.

To help members I have picked a couple of common tax-file declaration questions that I am frequently asked and thought a refresher on this subject may be a good idea. It is a boring topic I know, but essential for both employees and employers to ensure that the correct amount of PAYG (tax) is withheld each pay period. Let's look at a standard Tax Application Form: Section A (Payees/ Employees to complete this section) So you've answered questions 1 to 6 of your tax-file declaration, no worries, then you come to the potential stumbling blocks appearance of questions 7 to 11. So let's demystify these: Question 7: Are you an Australian resident for tax purposes?

It is important to understand here that there are different tax rates for Residents of Australia and Non-Residents. Also that having a Tax File Number (TFN) does not automatically mean that you are a resident of Australia. Please visit the following sites: ato.gov.au/residency and immi.gov.au for visa holders status. a.

b.

Residents of Australia have a tiered tax rate and employees claiming the tax-free threshold start paying tax when their expected annual income is over $18,201.

Non-Resident should pay tax at a rate 32.5c for each $1 earnt (that's around 1/3 of their wages).

Question 8: Do you want to claim the tax-free threshold from this employer?

! !

This is not a trick question. There are different tax consequences based on your answer.

Rule of thumb, you want to be claiming the tax-free threshold from the employer that pays you the most as the second job has a higher tax rate.

Question 9: Do you want to claim the seniors and pensioners tax offset by reducing the amount withheld from payments made to you? ! If you are a senior and or pensioner you may be eligible to say yes. However, please ensure that you have worked out your annual rate as ending up with a tax bill when you lodge your return is not so nice.

Question 10: Do you want to claim a zone, overseas forces or invalid and invalid carer tax offset by reducing the amount withheld from payments made to you? ! If you are unsure if you fall into this category go to everyone's friend Ms Google and type in your query. It will give you the answer.

Question 11: (a) Do you have a Higher Education Loan Program (HELP) or Trade Support Loan (TSL) debt? (b) Do you have a Financial Supplement debt? ! If you answer 'No" – all good. Now double check your answers then continue to the Declaration, sign and return to your employer. They will complete Section B. ! If you answer "Yes", and depending on your gross wages per pay period, your employer may be required to withhold an additional amount of tax from your wages each pay period. ! If you have a HELP/TSL or Financial Supplement debt and have the amount paid off before the end of the financial year, please let your employer know so that they can stop withholding. ! HELP/TSL or Financial Supplement debts are becoming more common since VET fees were approved for the Aesthetics industry.

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Here are a few more commonly asked questions: How often should you complete a new Tax-File Declaration? ! Each time that you change jobs. ! Any time that your basis of employment changes, e.g. question 6 "On what basis are you paid?" ! If you commence/finish study and a have HELP / TSL or Financial Supplement debt.

I've given my employer two Tax-File Declarations, which one is current? ! The last signed Tax-File Declaration provided to your employer.

How much time do I have to complete and return my TaxFile Declaration to my employer? ! 14 days from commencement of employment, otherwise your employer must withhold tax at the highest margin until the completed Tax-File Declaration is returned.

I don't have a TFN, is my employer going to withhold at the highest rate? ! You will need to complete your Tax-File Declaration and tick the box at question 1 that asks if you have applied to the ATO for a tax-file number. This gives you 28 days to contact the ATO and apply for your TFN. What if I choose not to give my employer a completed TFN? ! Unfortunately your employer will be obliged to withhold tax at the highest rate.

I thought I paid my HELP debt off when I did my tax return? ! If you have notified your employer that you have a HELP debt, they areobliged to withhold a higher rate of tax from you. ! The majority of Australians lodge their tax return through a tax agent, or these days on MyGov. Prefill drops your debt into the return and calculates this along with the other taxation obligations such as Medicare.

I didn't realise that I had to tell my employer that I had a HELP debt and when I completed my tax return I got a bill from the ATO? ! Your gross wages each pay period would have been calculated without any additional taxes being removed. ! The ATO monitor HELP/TSL or Financial Supplement debts. ! When you lodge your tax-return items such as your gross wages and tax paid (provided your employer has lodged their PAYG annual return) HELP debt, Medicare information and bank interest all drop into your tax return, assisting you with completing your return with the least amount of trouble.

As a business owner what do I do with the information on the TaxFile Declaration my employees provide me with? ! Check to see that Section A is completed, then complete Section B. ! If you are using a computerised accounting/payroll system, enter the data as per the employee’s form, insuring that questions 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 have been included (this ensures that the correct tax is withheld).

!

Some computerised systems allow the employer to lodge direct to the ATO, if not you will need to post the front page of the Tax-File Declaration to the ATO. If you are using a manual wage-book check to ensure that you have the correct tax tables on hand when completing the wages each pay period, post the form page of the Tax-File Declaration to the ATO.

I lodge my BAS every quarter, but only report the gross Wages and Pay as You Go Withholding (tax). How does the ATO know the breakdown of the tax? ! The ATO uses the information on your BAS and or IAS and matches this against the annual return that you lodge by 24 August. ! The annual return contains the breakdown of each employee’s Gross wages and the amount of tax that they have paid.

For a complimentary 30-minute consultation to discuss your needs contact Vanessa Kirkham on ph: 0412 707 044.

OLIVE GRAY BUSINESS SOLUTIONS We provide a flexible bookkeeping service, face-to-face or remotely.

Vanessa Kirkham has worked as a beauty therapist, and for the Tax Office. She understands the realities and needs of a salon business.

If you would like to discuss your needs with Vanessa please contact her on 0412 707 044

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Olive Gray Business Solutions is an APAN strategic partner.

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APJ 119

insurancematters

ASK THE INSURANCE GURU As procedures within the aesthetics industry are becoming more and more invasive business owners need to gain a better understanding of risks and determine the most appropriate and cost-effective way of mitigating all forms of risks within their business.

Risks are very costly. They are also disruptive to the morale of the staff, not to mention that they can damage valuable reputation and the credibility of the establishment that may have taken years and thousands of dollars to achieve.

Insurance cover for the aesthetics industry is now a speciality.

Policies differ in what they cover as many have found out when an incident occurs. APAN has a strategic alliance partnership with The Sparrow Group. This alliance has enabled us to work closely with them to ensure the best possible cover for our members at the best possible rates. We keep them up-to-date with new developments and procedures in the industry to ensure that all new modalities have provision for cover. In that way our members have peace of mind that their insurer will provide them with an excellent fit to all their procedures without leaving gaps, as sometimes happens with other insurers.

As a business owner you have to make strategic decisions regarding many areas of your business and insurance is one of them. We believe that the best way to guarantee that you are properly covered with your insurance is through an informed decision based on an understanding on what is involved in this space.

As of the Autumn issue of APJ we have approached The Sparrow Group to answer members' questions on the all-important topic of insurance. The objective of this column is to educate our members on the various elements of insurance, and clarify important information that will help them make better decisions. Additionally, the aim will be to educate you on the best protocols to minimise the risk of a claim against your business.

Suzanne Sparrow-Crisp is the Managing Director of The Sparrow Group. If you have a question please email it to us at info@apanetwork.com and mark the heading INSURANCE. We will select the question which is most in demand and forward it to Suzanne to address your concerns. Please enjoy the first issue.

QUESTION: Today, one of my clients left somewhat unhappy after her laser treatment. She had a slight reaction to the treatment and was a little concerned. We attended to her concern and assured her that the redness was not excessive and her skin would settle down by that evening. Prior to the treatment we provided her with the standard Informed Consent Form and explained

potential risks and expectations which she reviewed and signed. We also gave her posttreatment instructions.

We intend to phone her tomorrow to ascertain if she is OK. However, we feel confident that by then her skin should be settled. Of course there is a very small chance that things may turn out differently even though we believe we have met with all the protocol requirements and that her treatment was performed correctly. Can you please explain when and if we should be contacting our insurance company, and if we do need to why, since there is no incident?

Sue: Before I answer the various elements of your question, the number one point I would like to stress is to ALWAYS remember if an incident occurs, no matter what the reason, DO NOT admit liability. You can apologise for what happened, for example, "I am sorry this has happened to you", but do not admit it was your fault. Admitting fault could jeopardise your policy responding.

Now to answer your question, I will break the information down as follows:

When you should contact your insurance broker in the event of an incident?

It is always beneficial to contact your insurance broker in any instance that you may have some concerns with regards a incident with a client, to obtain their advice. In this situation, as you have followed all the protocols, the client is only somewhat unhappy; however, you are planning to call your client the next day. I would suggest you hold off contacting your insurance broker until after your follow-up call. If the client is still unhappy, work through with the client her reasons for being unhappy and take notes and contact your insurance broker. Your broker will work with you to obtain all the necessary information for completing the notification.

I have itemised below in point form the Do's and Don'ts in the event an incident occurs:

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!

Notify your insurance broker immediately – don't try to handle this yourself, leave it to the experts. I have known many therapists who think that by disclosing the situation to the insurance company it will affect their premium the coming year. Your insurance is there to cover you and also to assist you in preventing a claim.

Ensure you have copious notes on the situation.

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APJ 120

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Document all conversations and take photos if possible and create a file of all documentation pertaining to the client. This will be a great assistance should the situation escalate to a potential claim.

If the situation escalates on the phone and the client is obviously upset, please do not enter into dialogue with your client, slandering never helped any situation. The same goes in particular with texting – this can really get out of hand – I have seen situations where there has been up to 50 text messages between client and the clinic. This is a no win situation and all text messages can be used against you.

DO NOT engage you own lawyer, your insurance company will have their own legal team who will take care of you. This will not cost you anything extra, whereas your own lawyer will. More importantly, if your lawyer does not handle the matter in line with your policy cover that could jeopardise your cover.

Why should you contact your insurance broker?

Often clients that have a seemingly slight reaction can appear all fine, however, they may come back months or years later claiming compensation. Placing a notification with your insurance broker is just that – a notification on record. You are providing basic details and this is kept on file in the event that the client may require compensation. Also please don't base the fact you have a great relationship with your client that this is going to save you. I have seen situations where the therapist has continued to provide treatment for a number of years, then, it seems just out of the blue she receives a solicitor’s letter – very heartbreaking. The notification is there to protect you if such an incident occurs. More and more it is now becoming not if, but WHEN a potential claim may occur.

To help you understand this, I have itemised some stats below to give you some idea of the percentages of notifications and that result in claims or a positive resolution:

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30% of all notifications are resolved without any payment, due to the claims department and their lawyers working with your client on your behalf 70% of the time there is some form of payment to resolve the matter

resolved 30% required the involvement of a lawyer to defend or assist the insured business (Please note: Legal costs for claims over $20,000 start at $8,782.

These fees are fully covered by your Medical Malpractice insurance policy.)

!

We have also started to see a number of claims where clients who have not achieved their desired outcome of compensation will not stop. It is quite common for them to relentlessly start to harass the clinic in other ways – through other government avenues, professionally, personally and through social media, often all at the same time. So what can be done to stop or minimise the effect of the harassment to the business?

Contact your insurance broker and they will pursue options on your behalf if you have full medical malpractice. Please note: often Treatment Risk Policies do not include these costs. If not you will need to incur the costs of these activities

In that case there are three things you can do:

! ! !

Seek to implement an AVO (Aggravation Violence Order through your local police).

Have a lawyer issue a letter to seek retraction or cessation of the harassment (If you have Medical Malpractice insurance these costs are covered in your premium so you will not to hire an external lawyer.

If they still persist, you will need to serve them with defamation proceedings through your lawyer.

These actions can cost thousands of dollars and for this reason those who are not covered for these costs often become victims of the situation as they cannot afford to follow through with legal costs.

IN CLOSING As you can see not all insurance policies cover you for everything. If you have a question that you would like Suzanne to answer please send it to info@apanetwork.com and mark it INSURANCE. You can also contact APAN and find out how your membership can secure you excellent insurance cover and rates.

Phone: 07 5593 0360.

15% involved a payment of greater than $20,000 to be

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APJ 121

COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP)

Supportive of industry concerns and unrest, APAN has taken the baton and has established a new industry classification to offer Cosmetic Tattooists strong recognition and provide an effective path for a more secure future.

APAN launched COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) last year and it is revolutionising the recognition and integrity of Cosmetic Tattooists and is paving the way for the profession to be identified by best practice in line with Australian Standards.

Establishing CTARP as a registered industry classification was industrydriven and came after many qualified and experienced cosmetic tattooists raised serious concerns over the deteriorating training standards in Cosmetic Tattoo that currently exists, in particular with training being offered to noncosmetic tattooists to do just eyebrows.

To join CTARP the following prerequisite will be required:

! Must be a current financial member of APAN ! Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing Registration requirements:

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Adhere to the APAN CODE OF ETHICS (Cosmetic Tattooing) and the relevant Australian Regulations as set out by State and Federal jurisdictions. A signed copy of this must be returned to the APAN Office.(Please note: If members also hold an American association affiliation they must understand that if there is any conflict in their Code of Ethics the Australian Code and regulatory requirements will over-rule).

Cost of CTARP Registration: Adhere to the CTARP Code of Conduct.

CTARP Registration $110

!

Registration Benefits:

! Special Membership Certificate ! Special Membership Card ! Industry Code of Ethics (Cosmetic Tattooing) ! CTARP Code of Conduct ! Transparent CTARP logo for business window or door ! Included on APAN Website as preferred practitioners ! Other benefits from time-to-time Registration renewal requirements:

! Maintain currency of APAN Membership ! Evidence of participation in post-graduate training within the previous 24 months ! Evidence of attending at least one APAN conference per year.

!

If you require further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com The online application to join CTARP is found at www.apanetwork.com Applicants applying to become a Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) must provide evidence of currency of APAN Membership and their Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing.

So if you are a Cosmetic Tattooist and are committed to high standards of educational excellence and best practice, consider joining APAN and become a member of CTARP and be recognised among Australia's leading Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioners.

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APJ 122

When you want the perfect fit you need an

INDUSTRY SPECIALIST INSURER Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...

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APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE PROGRAM 2016

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AESTHETIC

Get ready for positive change Come celebrate with us!

VISORY NE

BRISBANE MAY 22 | SYDNEY JUNE 26 | PERTH OCTOBER 23 In 2016 APAN will unveil the new construct that will elevate the Status of the AESTHETIC PRACTITIONER The Launch of the new Accreditation Program

CLEARER SHARPER AUTHORITATIVE !

! ! ! !

Redefining Industry Standards and the new breed AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER Establish a clearer definition of the Skin and Age Management Sector Clearer identification of the advanced practitioner to government bodies Elevate consumer recognition and respect of registered practitioners Sharper marketing strategies for business growth

GREAT NETWORKING | EDUCATION | LEADING INDUSTRY STRATEGIES | REGULATION UPDATES | CONSUMER TRENDS

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www.apanetwork.com | info@apanetwork.com | 07 5593 0360

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