APJ Vol 31 2016

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Summer Volume 31. 2016

Summer Issue Volume 31.

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Harnessing the Power of Sleep

2016

CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS

Launches new state-of-the-art treatment range

BioPhyto SCIENCE MEETS NATURE to create products with unique qualities and outstanding results, defending the skin's immunityy and restoring life to damaged skin. A breakthrough series of clean chemistry products, puts technology in the service of skin repair and rejuvenation. Recent advances in biotechnology enable a highly efficient ficient extraction of active ingredients from plants that allows science to harness the maximum potency of their inherent, natural and skinrestorative properties. Christina combined all these high-end, innovative extracts to produce BioPhyto – the ultimate ate answer is skin balance! The unique BioPhyto formulas ensure highly personalised treatments for all skin types and provide solutions fo fforr multiple skin conditions. The skin regains its natural beauty and emerges more vibrant than ever before. With Christina's BioPhyto, a beautiful skin is a healthylooking skin.

BioPhyto offers the following results: ·

Detoxification – Detoxifies and

defends against the formation of new toxins, helping to prevent premature skin ageing, while maintaining the normal, well-balanced function of skin cells. ·

Blood Flow and Oxygen Consumption –

Optimal blood flow enhances oxygen and nutrients to revitalise and purify the skin. Proper cellular oxygen consumption is a sign of efficient metabolic activity. ·

Normalisation – Sebum secretion and keratin synthesis are controlled. The skin is free of redness and blemishes, even-toned and ideally moisturised.

Cell Replenishment and Rehabilitation of Skin Barrier –

BioPhyto products nourish the cells, moderating protein and lipid synthesis, boosting resilience and leading to significant, immediately visible improvement in the skin’s appearance.

BioPhyto – Offering Skin Restoration and Balance to Perfection. For obligation-free information please contact SKIN FACTORS Ph: 1800 824 282 or email info@skinfactors.com.au

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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9 28-30 35-38 42-43 65 68-72 73-77 78-80 81 119-121

Heart-2-Heart Naturaliste Skin Clinic (member profile) Aesthetic Bulletin Product Innovations APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Tips for Better Business Scientific News Trailblazing Cosmetic Tattooing to greater heights CTARP Reviewing the latest global statistics in consumer trends

REGULATIONS, EDUCATION & TRAINING 20-23

The Cosmetic Tattoo Profession -- Moving Forward through Advocacy 50-51 Deceptive Art 63-64 APAN hosts another cosmetic tattoo workshop Advanced Winged Eyeliner 82-88 The jewel of Crete - Poseidon Spa 100-101 Helping business grow, APAN secures $1.3million in Government Funding for qualifications

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 12-14 16-18 48 92-93

The Healing Power of Nature Weight Loss And Peptides Second Skin the new frontier in anti-ageing How integrative and nutritional medicine can help support aesthetic appearance and improve wellbeing 107 An interview with Professor Leonardo Marine 109-112 Glycation revisited 115-116 The power of rosemary essential oil 117-118 The use of essential oils in aromatic medicine

BUSINESS AND PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 26-27

Proven strategies for building an efficient, effective, productive and profitable aesthetic business 52-53 International aesthetics trends for the modern male 94-97 The power of design 98-99 The importance of closed Facebook Groups in promoting your business "silently" 102-103 How to defuse an angry client 122 Ask the insurance guru

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APAN Aesthetic Conferences in 2017 APAN Perth Aesthetic Conference Wrap-up Perth Royal Yacht Club, APAN/Think Pink fundraising breakfast 66-67 The power of collaboration - a successful fundraising event 89-91 A5M delivers another successful conference program: Healthy Ageing and Personalised Medicine: Improving Patient Outcomes 104-106 12th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference reaches new heights 113-114 International Congress of Esthetics and Spa (ICES)

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EDITOR’SNOTE COMING to the end of another year is a wonderful time to reflect on achievements, lessons learnt and to identify how you can leverage from this information to position yourself better and stronger for the new year ahead. It is so true that business is not for the faint hearted. In a constantly changing world there are challenges to face each day and while, what doesn't break us can make us stronger, we all also need to take time out to nurture ourselves as care givers for both our clients, staff and also our families. As you make summer plans and then tread through your busy day, don't forget to make time to spend with family and loved ones. Regardless of how tough life can be, there is always something you can be grateful for. I recently read an article entitled the The Science of Us. I know that a lot of so-called "positive psychology" can seem a bit flaky, especially if you're the sort of person who considers yourself a realist and pragmatist, yet time and time again, studies have shown that performing simple gratitude exercises – like keeping a gratitude diary or writing letters of thanks – can bring a range of benefits, such as feelings of increased well-being and reduced depression that often linger well after the exercises are finished. Studies also confirm that the more thankful we feel, the more likely we are to act pro-socially toward others, causing them to feel grateful and setting up a beautiful virtuous cascade. Emotional positivity is not only helpful in helping us identify solutions better, but as business owners and even employees in our industry we are required to show our care by influencing others to believe for the best in their life and within their circle of influence. We therefore cannot underestimate the important role we can play in creating an uplifting and hopeful environment, not just for our own wellbeing, but also for those around us. Coming to the end of the year is the perfect season for celebrations, and talking about celebrations in this issue of APJ we have numerous reports on conferences and fundraising events that have provided a wonderful opportunity for the industry to come together as a community of practice and engage in learning and fun activities for their own benefit and also for the benefit of others. I do hope that you find them inspirational and plan to participate in as many educational events as possible next year.

Our conference dates have been set for 2017: Adelaide (May 28th), Brisbane (30th July) and Melbourne (24th September). Put these dates in your dairy and attend as many events as you possibly can. Breaking away from the familiar to gain a new perspective on industry advances, new scientific discoveries and to expand your professional mindset can be quite exhilarating. We work in an amazing industry where advances and constant change are the norm. Ever evolving new developments bring with them new opportunities to improve what we are currently doing and to do things better. There is no room for stagnation if we are to stay vibrant, both as an industry and as business owners. As usual, we have some amazing educational and business articles that can help provide you with food for thought. I trust you can identify some nuggets of valuable information that can inspire you and offer you new and exciting options that can support you on your on-going quest for a successful personal, professional and business life. Follow Tina on Enjoy this issue of APJ.

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APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

AESTHETIC

http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page http://www.facebook.com/laserandipl?fret=ts

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Editor Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

Welcome to APJ

Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Shop7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

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Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-9812 Print Post Approved [100000257]

Circulation 6900

FRONT COVER VOGUE IMAGE GROUP Phone: 1800 554 545 (03) 9821 0033 Email: info@vogueimage.com.au For further information see pages 32-34 The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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Heart-to-Heart A message from the President and CEO WHAT a whirlwind of a year this has been. Throughout the whole year we have been spinning with activities. Our three conference programs, the launch of the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH event, attending several other conference events to keep us up-to-date with new developments, and the My Face My Body Global Aesthetic Awards on which I am also a judge. There has never been a dull moment as we continue to establish a foundation for a more formal structure that will better define our industry and our scope of practice. I have it on good authority that next year we will see another Bachelor Degree program in Aesthetics being launched. Education will continue to be the deciding factor that will help the aesthetics practitioners secure a better future â&#x20AC;&#x201C; safeguarded from modalities being taken away from their scope of practice by the medical profession.

DON'T GET LEFT BEHIND It is my prediction that 2017 will be the new era when more formal regulatory structures will start to emerge. To best prepare for this our APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER TM (ARAP) is gaining momentum, as is the Cosmetic Tattoo structure CTARP, which recognises practitioners with government-approved qualifications. As the numbers of successful applicants are added to the National Register we are gaining momentum to set the foundations for an Australian Aesthetics Registration Board. Consumers are encouraged to seek out these professionals who hold validated industry credentials as determined by an industry peek body. If you haven't already considered gaining this recognition I highly recommend you prioritise this as a matter of urgency. You can check the registration criteria on our website or you can phone me direct on 07 5593 0360 to gain further information. It pays to be prepared for future changes.

RESOLVE THE PURPOSE OF YOUR DIRECTION As we come to the end of a year I want to share with you some heart-to-heart thoughts about achievement.

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One of the most dynamic mechanisms to achievement is to make up your mind that you will pursue your purpose and your dreams until you reach them. In other words you will summon up the power of resolve and not settle for wishful thinking. Every successful professional and business owner needs to first identify their purpose, then believe in that purpose and finally resolve to pursue the direction and activities that are needed to achieve the outcome that is important to them. As a business owner this could be to step-up what you are currently doing to include better treatment outcomes, a broader scope of services with the intention of growing your client acquisition rate and expanding your business territory. The decision is yours - it is not up to chance. Unless you resolve to achieve growth it will not happen for you. On the other hand, if you are a practitioner you may wish to invest in improving your qualifications to ensure a more productive and lucrative career future. Do it! Don't look to your employer to pay for your fees. They are not your educational guardian. This is your life, your future. Take action and invest in your educational advancement and your professional development. This is your decision and it is up to you to take action and set the course for improving your future. As for me I have also taken a difficult path. My aim is not to retire until I have established the foundations for a more secure future for aesthetics practitioners and dermal therapists in our profession Australia-wide. I am fully persuaded that currently the aesthetics industry is suffering from a poorly defined identity and the need for a new and more appropriate regulatory structure to secure our practitioners future and the future success of our salons and clinics. My involvement and experience in the regulatory space has given me insight into the reality of the risks and the pathway we need to take to mitigate these risks through regulatory structures. Am I encountering resistance and challenge? Most definitely. However, I have a choice. I can either throw my hands up and say it is all too hard or resolve to overcome every obstacle until I achieve the outcome that I believe is needed. Daily, I have to remind myself of my purpose

In order to

SUCCEED we must first believe then we can Nikos Kazantzakis | www.geckoandfly.com

and stay focused to overcome the obstacles until I achieve my goal. I also need to do this on a daily basis and so do you. If a powerful resolve is the key to victory then how can you best summon it up? Here are my most powerful motivators: 1.

Care about your goal passionately. If you don't care or believe in your goal passionately you will not be able to summon up the resolve necessary to accomplish it. If that is the case you should re-evaluate why it's your goal in the first place. If resolve is the key to victory, motivation is the key to resolve.

REACH OUT TO US As we come to the end of a year, I want to assure you that APAN is committed to your success. Our business is to ensure that you are achieving the success and growth that you wish to achieve. Reach out to us for help as that is why we actually exist - to see you prosper. On behalf of all of us at APAN our best wishes for a Happy Christmas and may 2017 bring you the very best of everything.

Ignore the odds against you. Don't over-analyse the obstacles and give them power to weaken you. You will encounter opposition – it is all part of the territory of achieving something worthwhile fighting for. Sometimes you will find that incompetent people actually have a paradoxically significant advantage over competent people. Why? You will find that often people who have an inability to recognise their own incompetence actually extend their ability to predict their likelihood of success. The paralysis of analysis can often be the killer to your dreams because of over-focusing on the obstacles rather than the possibilities. Where there’s a will there’s always a way.

Prepare yourself to endure. How many times should you get up after being knocked down? Once, twice, three times? How about until you've reach your goal. If one strategy doesn't work, rack your brain to find another. And another. And another. Resolve, like belief, is an inexplicable, but irresistible force that lives in every single one of us. We all have the power to summon up an inflexible will to win. Even when you lack a plan or can't find the path to your goal, take solace and encouragement from the fact that resolve is the fuel that drives the engine of accomplishment and you literally have an inexhaustible supply. It will only stop flowing when you shut it off yourself. People often make the mistake of allowing their resolve to fade when they fail to accomplish a goal in a particular time frame. But people who succeed often do so because they continue on past the point where they expected to have already succeeded but didn't. Perseverance pays off. Staying on track will allow you to identify what will work, if what you are doing isn't working.

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CRYOMED AESTHETICS is the leading supplier of multi-platform IPL systems. The CryoBroadlight 2 and the Etherea open up a world of infinite IPL treatment possibilities. Cryomed Aesthetics offers a range of top-of-the-line aesthetic devices, clinical education and training and provides speedy technical support. Cryomed is the number one choice for all your aesthetic needs.

CryoBroadlight 2 The CryoBroadlight 2 (CBL 2) offers a flexible multi-application platform for the treatment of over 11 different skin conditions, as well as for hair removal. The CBL 2 was created with both the physician and patient in mind. It allows procedures to be easily performed, enabling you to treat more conditions and achieve superior treatment outcomes.

A unique all-in-one handpiece The CBL 2 handpiece is designed with six slide-in digital filters tailored to each address the specific condition being treated. Integrated with the device is a computer-enabled filter recognition for targeted cooling, automatically setting the right temperature for the right treatment. With the CBL 2 handpiece, you can change digital filters in seconds instead of attaching a whole new handpiece.

Six Cut-Off Filters 430nm, 515nm, 560nm, 585nm, 640nm & 700nm. The CBL 2 is equipped with easy-to-slide in and out cut-off filters that minimise and reduce treatment time associated with having to change handpieces. The CBL 2 handpiece saves not only treatment time and storage space, but is also extremely cost efficient because there is no need to purchase multiple handpieces.

Multi Spot Tips The CBL 2 is equipt with multi spott tips 8mm round and d 12x12mm square, this feature allows you to spot treat any area of the face easily and effectively.

Sapphire Cooling The CBL2 has a unique skin cooling system ystem that maintains the cooling temperature of the int to contact point provide the most comfortable and safe operation possible. Sapphire cooling minimises the temperature of the target tissue during treatment to reduce the risk of side effects.

Genesis Pulse for pain-free collagen remodelling CBL 2's Genesis pulse increases sub-dermal heat by stimulating collagen, while it minimises thermal damage to the untargeted skin based on the high quality square pulse technology. Therefore, CBL's Genesis pulse not only delivers superior comfort during treatment, but also ensures that the clinician will get the treatment results he or she expect while avoiding any unwanted side effects.

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Fast Firing Rate Operation time is important for clinics because faster treatment times provide a better patient experience and enable physicians to achieve better productivity and a higher patient throughput. Compared to other IPL systems on the market, the CBL offers very rapid repetition rates enabling faster treatment times to optimise treatment outcomes.

Applications for use: ! Acne ! Vascular Lesions ! Melasma and pigmented lesions ! Large Pores ! Telangiectasia ! Photo-rejuvenation ! Rosacea ! Solar Lentigines ! Dermal Pigmented Lesions ! Regenerated by Genesis ! Epidermal Pigmented Lesions ! Hair removal

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CRYOMED AESTHETICS launches NEW GENERATION DEVICES ETHEREA The Etherea was developed to bring to market what is the best in effective IPL and light-based based applications. Designed to meet the specific needs of doctors and patients, offering a wide variety of treatment applications including:

! ! ! ! !

Vascular lesions Pigmented lesions Superficial treatment of active acne Hair removal Skin rejuvenation

Square Wave Pulse Technology SQUARE-WAVE PULSE®technology acts differently in that it promotes a controlled and micro-processed delivery of energy. This prevents the formation of critical areas that cause unwanted side effects. Traditional IPL equipment incorporates the free discharge of energy, so that the energy being delivered at the beginning of the pulse duration is greater than that delivered at the end.

Versatilty IPL-Sq® has 5 cutting filters available in a single handpiece (400, 540, 580, 640 and 695 nm) and uses an intelligent and automatic wavelength recognition system for easy plug and-play use. It was specifically designed to meet the indications of the most sought-after treatments in clinics and practices across the globe.

Vascutips Importantly, IPL-Sq® still incorporates the acclaimed laimed VASCUTIPS, in both round and square spots, which was developed for the treatment of localised lesions and smaller, less accessible regions of the body without affecting clinical efficacy.

A Unique Technology for Various Phototypes IPL-Sq® is associated with longer pulse duration (100 ms), and still uses a safety filter at 695 nm. This means it is capable of a wide variety of treatments, even on darker skin types. It is ideal for a mixed-skin-type market making it ideal for the Australian aesthetic market.

A perfect combination of parameters Associated with the use of high-performance reflectors, the SQUARE-WAVE PULSE® technology provides pulses with high doses of energy. In practice, this ensures better results across the various treatment indications. In addition, pulses with a variable duration of 5 to 100 ms ensure the required aggressiveness for vascular treatments, while keeping the procedure safe for higher skin photo-types.

Integrated Contact Cooling Sapphire couplings are fast-cooled with five intensity levels of temperature control further increasing comfort, predictability and efficacy of the treatments.

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Speed of treatment

IPL-Sq® has a wide spot, 40 x 12 mm application area, and a high repetition rate of up to 2 Hz for faster coverage on large treatment areas, saving you and your clients valuable time.

Call Cryomed today 1300 346 448 or visit www.cryomed.com.au

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productperformers

The Healing Power of Nature by Dr Helder Marcal, Dr Donna Lee Dinnes and Dr Sinan Ali Skin Biomedics Institute ON-GOING RESEARCH is confirming the constant rise in consumer concerns with the use of questionable ingredients in cosmetics and topically applied products. Meanwhile, while the demand for anti-ageing results continue to grow, so is the issue of ingredient safety. This trend is contributing to the rise of biotechnology in providing safer and more "favourable" solutions when it comes to skincare. Herbal therapies for skin disorders have been used for thousands of years. Specific herbs, based on locally available plants and through trade in ethno-botanical remedies have provided effective health and skincare solutions. Systems of herbals have been successfully used as healing remedies for centuries throughout many cultures.

In this article researchers from the Skin Biomedics Institute profile some exotic ingredients that are making their way into a new Australian professional skincare range and uncover some of the powerful therapeutic constituents available through nature and how they can now offer anti-ageing benefits through safer, cosmetic solutions. Natural medicine has been practiced for centuries around the world. This is especially evident with the Indian and Caboclos from the Amazon jungle in Brazil. These cultures have identified various plants, oils and minerals that have anti-ageing properties and have used them for centuries for this purpose. Today, there is a great deal of interest and research dedicated to the pursuit of youthfulness and disease prevention. Ageing is a natural process that leads to the progressive and degenerative changes in all living organisms. On-going studies are exploring ways to prolong life, increase wellbeing and ultimately improve the quality of life. The maintenance of a healthy ageing process and preventing pathological ageing is very important, but of particular interest is the association with the prevention of disease.

In recent years there has been a resurgence of the use of herbs as side effects of chemical drugs become apparent. There is a strong consumer call to return to nature. Natural remedies are becoming a part of the green revolution with a return to organic produce. Herbal remedies, including those for skin disorders, are gaining popularity particularly those that show scientific evidence for clinical efficacy, as well as the more common herbs In our natural environment various plants have been used in the found to be useful in the treatment of dermatologic disorders. management of age-related diseases over the years. For example, extracts with anti-ageing properties that can support and enhance

With the rise of biotechnology, advanced delivery systems are wound healing, aid in UV protection, skin pigmentation control, now allowing natural ingredients to rival synthetic formulations, wrinkle management as well as defend against skin infections are while also offering a higher degree of safety. of immense interest in the cosmetic industry and in particular, to skincare formulators.

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FACTORS THAT CONTRIBUTE TO AGEING OF THE SKIN Before we look at potential solutions, let's first take a quick look at the contributing factors to ageing. The skin has two distinct processes of ageing: intrinsic – relating to the natural ageing process, and extrinsic – caused by external factors (i.e. solar radiation, pollution, lifestyle habits, etc). The first is characterised by epidermal thinning in all strata, malformation of keratin and partial loss of the surface hydrolipidic film, thus leaving the skin with a dull and dry appearance. The second is mainly caused by excessive exposure to sunlight, which can trigger the formation of free radicals. These are highly reactive molecules that can alter the structure and function of deoxyribonucleotides(DNA), metabolism and ultimately cause damage to cell function.

THE EMERGING PROTECTION OF ANTIOXIDANTS As we know, antioxidants are compounds that have a beneficial effect on the human body. In particular, they act by inhibiting and/or reducing the effects triggered by free radicals. Furthermore, antioxidants may also be defined as compounds that protect cells from the damaging effects of oxygenated and nitrogenised free radicals, formed in oxidative processes. Excessive free radicals generate an imbalance, starting with oxidative stress - a metabolic process responsible for triggering various types of chronic diseases. The body utilises endogenous antioxidant systems in the fight against free radicals. Antioxidants can also be obtained by the ingestion of specific food that contain constituents such as vitamins E and C, carotenoids, phenolic compounds, among others (Ali et al, 2008).

AMAZON MEDICINAL PLANTS

antioxidant properties and its anti-senescence effects against hydrogen peroxide (H2O2)-induced oxidative stress in a human adult fibroblast (HAF) cell line. This extract from the Amazon has proven to contain unexplored benefits that are directly related to its bioactive constituents. Collectively, our research team has created the first Australian innovation using this key ingredient within the skincare brand Dermatonics® that is available in Australia. Furthermore, the research team has also identified that mulateiro has significant anti-ageing properties that can benefit the skin. Phytochemical screening of mulateiro extracts revealed the presence of important chemical compounds such as organic acids, phenols, tannins and other important constituents. These properties are available in Dermatonics®. The Dermatonics® range is also the first to contain another active/base ingredient from the obromagrandiflorum (Sterculiaceae) calledcupuaçu. Among all fruits, cupuaçu is one of the most important to originate from southern and southeastern Amazon (Lannes, 2003). It is appreciated for its acidic pulp and intense aroma. As a result of its strong flavour, the fruit pulp is not usually consumed alone and is used in the manufacture of beverages such as wine cupuaçu, juices, ice cream, liqueurs, jams, preserves and sweets (Bastos et al, 2002; Yang et al, 2003). It has an amazing emollient and moisturising property, which gives softness and a velvety feel to skin and conditioning effect to the hair. It has proven skin hydration benefits, prevents transepidermal water loss and also delivers anti-inflammatory benefits (Pugliese, Alexandre G., et al, 2013).

In recent years, there has emerged a major concern in knowing the composition of medicinal plants and their use as anti-ageing agents. According to the World Health Organisation, approximately 80% of developing countries still use plant-based medicinal preparations as the first therapeutic option in the treatment of disease. In fact, plant-based materials are used for a variety of medicinal purposes and more than 70% of anti-ageing pharmaceutical products are derived from plants.

Cupuaçu pulp has a potential international market impact because of its antioxidant activity, levels of phenolic compounds and carotenoids as well as its significant vitamin C content. The cosmetic industry has discovered the effectiveness of cupuaçu butter as a superior emollient and moisturiser. Cupuaçu enables considerable reduction of fine lines and wrinkles due to its high moisturising properties. . Cupuaçu is a bioactive key ingredient used across the entire range of natural-organic Dermatonics® According to traditional knowledge on the use of medicinal plants products. It has the ability to absorb up to 240% times more water from the Amazon, several plants show potential active in comparison to other vegetable derivatives. compounds that delay, or reduce the ageing process. An example is the mulateiro tree (Callycophylumspruceanum), which has CURCURMIN been indicated to improve health and delay ageing processes in Another herbaceous rhizomatous plant that belongs to the Zingiberaceae (ginger) family and has been used worldwide for the skin. traditional medicine applications for centuries is curcumin. This is especially evident with the Curcuma species which are known THE MULATEIRO TREE – to have approximately 130 varieties. Some of the popular ones CALYCOPHYLLUMSPRUCEANUM (RUBIACEAE) The mulateiro tree belongs to the family of Rubiaceae and is include C. longa (turmeric), C. aromatica (wild turmeric), and C. xanthorrhiza (Javanese turmeric), which have been used considered a medicinal plant. It contains phenols with strong for various medicinal applications such as cancer, inflammation, antioxidant properties that prevent cell ageing by halting the liver damage, neuro-degenerative Parkinson's disease, action of free radicals. Traditionally, it is used as a tea bark and Alzheimer's, anti-parasitic, periodontal disease and inflammatory ointment resin for the preparation of shampoos, creams and bowel disease. moisturisers. Recently, the mulateiro callus extract has been indicated as a potential powerful anti-ageing, hair growth and hair In Indonesia, C. xanthorrhiza is known as temulawak, and the loss solution (Figueiredo Filho et al, 2014). This is not surprising extract is used in traditional medicine called 'Jamu'. Curcumin is a as it has substances that have antibiotic effects against bacteria natural polyphenol, known as diferuloylmethane, and its major and fungi. In cosmetology, the mulateiro tree offers beneficial active constituent curcuminoids are produced primarily in the properties to combat skin ageing, hair loss, pigmentation rhizomes of the plants root system. Despite the longstanding disorders, wrinkles, cellulite and scar tissue and is also useful as a traditional medicine applications, studies focused on temulawak sunscreen against UV. are still in their infancy and a comprehensive understanding of the therapeutic actions and health benefits are still unclear. The In Australia we have been able to produce the first mulateiro medicinal properties of temulawak are several fold and include extract to include in skincare formulations. We have evaluated its

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In fact, curcumin has the ability to inhibit their expression, hence it can prevent tumor growth and metastasis. Curcumin also decreases the expression and activity of transforming growth factor (TGF-α), which has been advocated as an interesting target for psoriasis treatment. This is evident with the development of an Australian soon-to-be released Dermatonics® product as the brand expands its range.

NONI: MORINDACITRIFOLIA

relief of inflammatory conditions, digestive disorders, arthritic and skin conditions, cancers and neuro-degeneration. Studies have shown that temulawak can modulate numerous targets such as cytokines, enzymes, growth factor receptors, transcription factors and genes.

Noni is a small evergreen shrub o f t h e c o f f e e f a m i l y, Rubiaceae, growing in the Pacific Islands, Southeast Asia and tropical Australia. It has many other names ranging from Indian mulberry to the aptly named cheese fruit for its pungent odour while ripening. Various preparations of Noni contain phytochemicals, flavonoids, iridoids, fatty acids, tyrosine kinase inhibitors, antioxidants, plant sterols able to reduce cancer and cholesterol levels, Vitamin C, Vitamin B3 (niacin), alkeloids (acting as cell regeneration agents) and several essential minerals as active ingredients. Noni has traditional uses ranging from the management of abdominal pain, menstrual disorders, colic, diabetes, fever, liver disease, nausea, depression of kidney disorders and hypertension to name a few. Notwithstanding these traditional uses, Noni is gaining momentum as an ingredient in modern day skincare products due to its traditional history of use as a topical preparation for joint pain and skin conditions. In folk use, Noni has a traditional use as a topical preparation for skin conditions and joint pain.

Conversely, the extract preparations from the rhizomes of the C. longa plant (turmeric) – a yellow powder – are readily used as a spice in curries throughout India and have been studied immensely. Incidentally, C. aromatica is also used in cosmetic preparations and applications in Ayurvedic traditional medicine. For example, a practitioner utilises Haldi (Hindi) curcumin as a traditional tonic and remedy and this represents the predominant plant species grown throughout India (). In Southern Asia 'Jiang Noni extract is also known to have antioxidant properties, antiHuang is used as a treatment for digestive and liver cancer properties, and as an immune-stimulant, which all point complications. towards its capacity to be used as an anti-ageing agent. Noni also Notwithstanding the ancient traditional use of curcumin, a contains various constituents and antioxidants beneficial to comprehensive understanding of the therapeutic molecular skincare such as antibacterial anthraquinones and lignans that actions and the health benefits provided by curcumin continue to have anti-tumour, analgesic, anti-viral properties and also have be incomplete. Although existing technologies have shed some Type 1 collagen synthesis activity. The plant has been shown to and light into some of the molecular properties and targets that have immuno-modulatory, anti-tumour activities compounds that are anti-inflammatory. The Noni extract is also curcumin influences, it appears that several medicinal properties available in the Dermatonics® skincare range, available first in remain unidentified. Australia. Curcumin affects growth factors and cell-adhesion and proliferation by the activation of various growth receptors, such as epidermal growth factor receptor (EGFR), insulin like growth factor receptor (IGFR), fibroblast growth factor receptor (FGFR) and vascular endothelial growth factor receptor (VEGFR). Upregulated expression of growth factors, especially in skin, can REFERENCES: lead to abnormal growth, proliferation and vascular As the references are too numerous to include here please complications in particular, the skin. contact the editor if required.

For further information please contact www.dematonics.com.au

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Weight Loss and PEPTIDES by Dr Zac Turner AS WE all know, peptides are shorter chains of amino acids. Some refer to them as â&#x20AC;&#x153;small proteinsâ&#x20AC;? for if there are less than 50 amino acids within a protein chain they are ultimately renamed and referred to as peptides. Peptide hormones are proteins that have endocrine (hormonal) functions. Some create metabolic performance enhancements by communicating with the body to trigger the release of Growth Hormone (GH) into the blood. When this occurs the benefit shows in our ability to readily build lean muscle and release stored fat. Over the next few years we will see peptide technology entering the wellness and anti-ageing toolbox as science discovers ways of supporting our wellbeing and our appearance is safer, more sustainable ways. Dr Zac Turner is both an aesthetic medical expert and a regenerative, anti-ageing physician. In this article he explores the whole issue of weight loss and presents how two important peptides are helping achiever better and longer-lasting results. We eat too much, we drink too much, we waste too much and as a result we often carry a little extra weight. Eventhough most of us up to 200 years. So it is high time we started looking at ways that are generally fabulous and lovely, we wouldn't survive 24 hours in will help us not just live longer, but also invest in making sure that the wild. So why is that? as we grow old we can still remain healthy and happy. I don't know about you, but I for one don't want to be old and decrepit at Compared to our ancestors who were hunters and gatherers 70+, whiling away my final years dwindling into a chronically(thousands of years ago), we have for the most part slipped a long diseased invalid. I want to live to be 150 and die due to my way from being able to head out and return triumphant with parachute not opening base-jumping from some insanely tall dinner-in-tow. With our often sedentary lifestyles and easy skyscraper and not because of a debilitating and painful disease. access to meal deliveries, we are very rarely faced with the prospect of no dinner or skipping meals, unless it is pre-planned. When it comes to ageing gracefully this is only possible through a However, this needs to change. Today, many of us are killing well-rounded diet. So often I hear from elderly people who have ourselves with too much food and with the wrong kinds at that. lived well into their 90's that the main reason has been attributed Knowing how certain foods work in our body and also knowing to eating a healthy diet and generally eating less than their now when, what and how much to eat is the key to good health and deceased counterparts. optimal weight management. The good news, however, is that modern medicine is now identifying fat-fighting aids that are available in the form of peptides that can make sticking to your plan much easier. Peptides such as AOD9604 and HCG are designed to make your body produce growth hormones that have fat reducing effects. As an anti-ageing medical specialist I am continually booked out with patients trying to lose weight and maintain it. This is because it is extremely difficult to age well if you're overweight and almost impossible to live a long life if you are having to deal with weight issues.

FAT-BURNING APPROACHES It is important to look at how our body burns fat as well as what foods do this best. A high protein content in our food requires more energy from the body to process it. The more energy consumed the more fat needs to be burnt. Meats and legumes are prime examples of high protein foods causing more energy to be used, which speeds up the metabolism. Another way to increase the body's energy consumption is by heating it up. Raising the body temperature causes the body's metabolism to speed up helping to burn more calories. For example, chilies are the top pick for making that body temperature rise.

Recent studies are ndicating that 1-in-3 children born in the past 10 years are set to live to 100 years of age. We are also being told Also food high in fibre will reduce the amount of calories that are that a child born in the next five years will live well past that age to absorbed from food during digestion. Consider food such as

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oatmeal and broccoli that are high in fibre and also help us to feel satisfied and fuller for longer. Some foods contain natural chemicals that effect the body in different ways to help burn fat. The introduction of peptides is another useful way to achieve extra help in fat loss. For the purpose of this article two key peptides I would like to discuss AOD9604 and hCG. Understanding how they work can be useful in appreciating how they can assist in this process and benefit in weightloss. woman's pregnancy, it is found in high amounts. Here its purpose WHAT IS AOD9604? AOD9604 is a 15 amino acid long peptide, mimicking a small is to find and set the body's fat reserves to maintain the mother's portion of growth hormone that has fat reducing effects. AOD muscle tone and nourish the developing foetus. stands for Anti Obesity Drug. It was developed and patented in SO HOW DOES IT WORK? Australia. The hCG diet was originally discovered by British endocrinologist Dr Albert Theodore William Simeons, a leading HOW DOES AOD9604 WORK? Studies have shown that AOD stimulates the breakdown of fat and exponent of a weight-loss protocol based on human chorionic prevents non-fat food from being stored in the body as fat. AOD gonadotropin. In 1954, he published a book called "Pounds and works by imitating your natural growth hormone that regulates fat Inches", and a paper in the Lancet on his theories. metabolism without negatively affecting your blood sugar levels. Dr. Simeons found that the body has three types of fat - structural, Additionally, it has been shown to reduce stubborn fat areas such regular fuel and abnormal. Structural fat being beneficial to the as abdominal fat and other adipose/brawn fatty tissues. Other body for protecting organs and arteries by acting as padding. On benefits include increasing muscle mass by increasing IGF-1 the other hand, regular fuel fat is used for the body to quickly draw positively to metabolise fat and increase the amount of energy upon for emergency nutrients, and abnormal fat being that when a mass causes obesity and is locked away from the body being burnt for the same amount of activity. able to obtain any nutritional income. AOD has also been found to have a positive influence on joint tissues and cartilage repair. By increasing cartilage and collagen During his studies, Dr Simeons found that hCG combined with a production in the joints, AOD has been successfully used to treat very low calorie diet (VLCD) was a highly effective treatment for fat loss, particularly with abnormal fat. local pain areas such as osteoarthritis and tendonitis.

POTENTIAL BENEFITS

By hCG targeting the abnormal fat reserves before structural or

If you have any doubts about how AOD can benefit you or your regular fuel, this results in rapid weight loss without hunger pains while maintaining muscle tone. When accompanied by a VLCD, clients or patients, here some considerations:

! ! ! ! ! !

Reduces the most stubborn abdominal fat Increases muscle mass Increases IGF-1 levels, in an effective manner (reducing insulin sensitivity, increasing fat burning) Increases energy expenditure Improves lipid profiles and lipolytic activity (ability to break up fat) Extremely potent and effective fat burner

weight is visibly lifted from the stomach, buttocks, thighs and upper arms. The body's metabolism is reset once the abnormal fat reserves are gone, which make it easier to maintain results.

POTENTIAL BENEFITS OF HCG: HCG is an effective weight loss protocol and when followed strictly, including the correct maintenance phase, it can deliver excellent results.

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In conjunction with a healthy diet and lifestyle AOD can offer Here is what you can expect: great support and assist in achieving weight management and ! Reduces the stubborn abdominal fat ! Loss of abnormal fat stores better quality of life. ! Increases IGF-1 levels, in an effective manner (reducing insulin sensitivity, increasing fat burning) WHAT IS HCG? Playing different roles in sexual development for men and women ! Increases energy expenditure ! Improves lipid profiles and lipolytic activity (ability to break is Human Chorionic Gondatropin, commonly known as (hCG), up fat) which is a natural hormone produce by the body. During a

APJ 17

! ! ! ! ! !

Extremely potent and effective fat burner Quicker recovery time Enhanced rest quality Increase in muscle bulk Increase in vitality Reduced body fat.

want more. They want to feel good and part of that challenge is directly linked to maintaining their optimal weight. The world of peptide therapy is opening new horizons that will allow us to more effectively support our patients' journey in looking their best, while supporting their wellbeing for a longer and happier life as they advance into their ripe older years.

Peptides are an effective safe way of reaching your health goals, particularly in fighting the obesity epidemic. However, these PROFILE AND PASSION Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background specialising in strategies require medical supervision so it is important you talk regenerative and aesthetic medicine. Aesthetically, Dr Zac feels to your doctor regarding your suitability. that a natural look is best, and truly believes that his 'less-is-more' There is a right way of losing weight and it is prudent to ensure approach using perfectly placed products gives the optimum you are on the right program. I am continually amazed at diets outcomes. He doesn't set out to change the way a person looks, but and plans patients present to me as being scientifically based that instead aims to give them a fresh and rested appearance, further enhancing their natural beauty. Dr Zac provides in-depth are, in fact, quite unhealthy. consultations and works with our other experts to ensure your experience will be enjoyable and leave you looking and feeling BEST FAT-BURNING FOODS Let's now look at the top picks for fat burning foods that have high your best. fat burning properties, are versatile, beneficial to overall health in Over the past few years, Dr Zac has become involved in both a variety of ways, easy to prepare and of course delicious. men's health and preventative health space. He is passionate about this as sees prevention and body optimisation as the Here is a list to consider: ! Green tea is packed with antioxidants that help fat burning ultimate way to prevent chronic disease, obesity, and many other hormones. conditions. He has owned and is currently involved with clinics ! Broccoli contains a high fiber content as well as many other in the holistic health arena and believes that through a holistic properties that benefit your overall health. assessment of people's health we can enable them to live longer, ! Chicken boasts a great deal of protein and can be used in a healthier and happier. large range of dishes. ! Oranges are not just rich in fibre, the high vitamin C content W e a r e d e l i g h t e d t o of oranges is conducive to fat burning. introduce Dr Zac as a strategic alliance partner Citrus fruit in general help with weight loss because they support with APAN. His training will the production of L-carnitine in the body, which is promoted by allow nurses and doctors their vitamin C content. This helps breakdown and burn fat. who are APAN members to If you are looking to get lean, then this is the amino acid you need. gain from his skills and L-carnitine transfers long-chain fatty acids, such as triglycerides, knowledge in the most upinto mitochondria where they may be oxidised to produce energy. to-date techniques in L-carnitine also has been shown to reduce fatigue and serve as an injectables and peptides. If appetite suppressant as well. you would like further information please contact Whether you are improving someone's skin,or enhancing their APAN on 07 5593 0360. appearance within the scope of your practice, today's consumers

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LEARN FROM THE EXPERT Cosmetic Tattooists, Do you want to advance your knowledge and education to a higher level and transition into Medical Cosmetic Tattooing?

JOIN ME for an intensive 2-day postgraduate training class in 3D nipple areola tattooing

PRICE $2900 Prerequisites: Only offered to qualified cosmetic tattoo practitioners with two years industry experience

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PH: 08 9380 6448

cosmetictattoo

The Cosmetic Tattoo Profession Moving Forward through Advocacy by Christine Comans Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Co-ordinator Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) Cosmetic tattoo trainer and educator CHRISTINE COMANS shares currently industry advances that have contributed to a game-change, necessitating a new more formal approach to professional recognition, education and the role of regulations in securing the future of both aesthetics and, in particular, the practice of cosmetic tattooing and even formalising training for microblading. Advances in procedures, as well as the growing number of medical practitioners entering the aesthetics and cosmetic medical field, is creating the need for a review of the rules that govern procedural practice.

a standards body to inform the industry and help practitioners gain a better understanding of the new dynamics that have the potential to change the future direction of our profession.

There is no doubt that we establish our views based on the information we are exposed to. This is why this article is very important as it provides clarity in helping bring to light some of the issues that are influencing the need for change and the important role that the individual practitioner can play in securing a better future. We hope that this article will help to enlighten you on some Much of what is going on behind the scenes in not common of the behind the scenes activities and motivate you to take an knowledge to the industry, but we believe we have a duty-of-care as active role in the future of your industry.

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There is growing unrest among concerned qualified Cosmetic Tattoo practitioners over the new trend of short courses pertaining to various cosmetic tattoo procedures. This includes the very popular microblading technique that is taught through short 2-3 days courses to anyone without the requirements of any prerequisites. As a result many within the industry have expressed a strong desire for improved standards and the need for a qualification. Under our directive, APAN has been given a mandate to help us in this area. However, for this process to be successful it requires industry backing and support and this is where the role of the individual practitioner can become very important. Our profession needs improved standards and without a doubt, we need a strong industry Advocate body to represent us. This requires skilled professionals like Tina Viney who can provide us with consistent and appropriate industry representation and help navigate this process in our favour. Tina is someone who understands the complexities involved in the pathways ahead of us and, most importantly, she is someone who passionately understands the needs for the industry to be protected and the consequences to our future if these issues are not addressed. This year Tina celebrated her 50th anniversary in the aesthetics industry. On behalf of the industry I would like to congratulate her and to express our gratitude that we have someone of her calibre and experience to lead the changes.

Those of us already in the industry know that our profession has so many complexities involved in each procedure. We are working on individuals of all ages with varying immune responses and even psychological states. These issue can contribute to adverse reaction, or even unfulfilled expectations of the end procedure. The age of litigation is at an all-time high and the necessity for correct and thorough training has never been more important. The current status is proving that you never learn what you need to know by doing a short course. APAN receives calls daily from people who have been trained inadequately and are experiencing difficulties because of insufficient knowledge in their procedures of microblading and even cosmetic tattooing. I can also tell you from first-hand experience that a short course does not provide the appropriate level of skills and knowledge required for this profession as I also speak to individuals on a weekly basis who have done these short courses. They are often angry and disheartened by their lack of knowledge when it comes to applying their skills within the workplace and find their training was inadequate. As a result many are turning to Facebook groups for further information and complain about the poor quality and standard of training they received.

It's important for the future of our profession that we also become not just practitioners but also support industry advocacy. The first step for those of us who are cosmetic tattooist is to register with CTARP (Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner). Registered practitioners under this classification are required to provide evidence of their qualification and will represent the new In recent times media stories exposing dodgy cosmetic tattoo benchmark of standards and the recognised industry voice for practitioners are bringing the industry into disrepute. This is neither good for the consumer nor for the reputation of our Cosmetic Tattooing. profession as a whole.

GROWING PAINS On-going advances in our industry have led to what I would consider growing pains. Yes, many of us are in pain because our profession is being exploited by the two-day training courses and this is all because regulators haven't kept up with the need for an industry qualification. Sadly, in the cosmetic tattoo industry anyone can pick up a handpiece and have a go, and there are short courses being offered throughout Australia to anyone who wants to learn, regardless as to whether they have any prior knowledge of skin biology, infection control or the regulations pertaining to the use of anaesthetics. In our practice we use a needle that penetrates the skin through to the dermis, yet we are not required to hold a qualification to do so. This exposes us to risks in two specific areas - unsafe practices that will lead to litigation by consumers who have high expectations; and for medical bodies to review what we are doing and determine our procedures as being classified as "health practices" and pursue to limit who is best qualified to deliver these procedures based on current legislation. Clearly we need to revisit both our qualifications as well as pursue regulatory representation in a way that will safeguard our procedures from being classified as "health practitioner only".

While good training is available through unaccredited courses in Australia, it is time for the industry to realise the only way to secure the integrity of our profession is to move forward with a government approved qualification that will define the training standards that are considered mandatory to support the industry's reputation. I do understand that transitioning into a qualification can be scary and very daunting for some who are already established in their profession, and that's why being part of the APAN community of practice is important as it will provide the appropriate pathway for this to occur and allow responsible practitioners to gain recognition. That's us! We are a group of people who share a profession and we are trying to define our identity. We have a duty of care to adhere to high standards for the benefit of our clients and patients, but we also have a responsibility to support the reputation of our profession. That is the other side of the coin that is also important.

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Communities of practice are groups of people like us. They share a concern and a passion for what they practise and regularly interact to learn how to do it better. Their role is to continue to gain knowledge and expertise, but also collectively as a community they have a corporate role to play in defending the reputation of the practice and its future. That is what belonging to the APAN

APJ 21

In recent times I've met with Jaala Downes and others at the WA Heath Western Australian Department of Health, to discuss the need for qualifications to be part of the skin penetration approval process. What I can tell you is that WA won't be seeing licensing requirements like t h o s e i n Queensland as the Queensland licence is a policy matter and thankfully not s o m e t h i n g WA Health is interested community of practice is all about. in introducing. However, WA Health is working hard on updating APAN has a mandate to help us by negotiating with government the Health Act. They have already had two drafts and it looks like regulators for more stringent controls on who can practice things will change very soon with some new laws coming into cosmetic tattooing. Your voice is very important in this process. effect. Dealing with regulators requires knowledge, perseverance, consistent effort, money, a great deal of time and a lot of patience. APAN is skilled in understanding regulatory pathways and processes that can lead to outcomes and we are fortunate to have a body that will fight for us. They are experts and skilled in dealing with the government. However APAN also needs your support as it plays an important role in this process.

Tto keep up to date, stay involved with APAN because we will bring you all the things you need to know.

Thankfully, in WA we have received great support from various government departments that recognise the need for what we are trying to achieve. One of these industry representatives has been a huge support to us by taking our cause and talking to various State and Federal Ministers, Skills IQ and other players in the area of To achieve this mandate we all need to come together in the regulations and qualifications and they are part of our team in registration categories of CTARP or ARAP, if we are also working towards a better future for our profession. aesthetic practitioners. If we unite we can contribute to a strong voice towards change for the better. This is a task that we cannot CURRENT QUALIFICATION STATUS achieve as individuals - we need to unite as a body. OK, let's talk about qualifications. Currently the formally

WHAT ARE THE CURRENT THREATS? Let's take a close look at the current threats to our profession? The use of numbing creams or topical anaesthetics is a real problem for non-medical practitioners. Most of us can't perform our procedures without applying them to ensure the comfort of our clients or patients. So how do we work within the law? What's the answer? What are the best pathways for solutions and why?

recognised government approved training for cosmetic tattooing is is SIBBSKS504A - Design and Perform Cosmetic Tattooing, which is embedded in the Diploma of Beauty Therapy as a Unit of Competency. This was introduced over 10 years ago and we believe it does not serve the industry as it is quite bulky in its current format. What we are trying to achieve is to introduce this as a standalone qualification. In that way we can also look at including microblading as a unit within this qualification with an option for someone to gain formal qualifications in this procedure but with the appropriate supporting skin units, health units, as well as technical and business units. We believe this will provide a credible pathway also for microblading as nothing currently exists to support recognised training in this modality, leaving the door open for short and inadequate training that we are currently experiencing.

In every State the use of anaesthetics is legislated under the Drugs and Poisons regulations. All anaesthetics or numbing creams are classified as an S2, S3 or S4 drug and therefore can only be administered by a healthcare professional. The only way these regulations can be directed in our favour will be strictly based on the level of education of the practitioner. That's the national position and this is why we need to come together. But let's talk more specifically about what's going on as an example in Western Australia. Even if you are based in another State it pays for you to SETTING UP A WA APAN CHAPTER APAN recognises that WA has its own specific needs and is see what is happening when health reviews are updated because encouraging us to set up our own APAN Chapter of like-minded they can provide models for other States as well. professionals who want to have a voice in the direction of industry

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have an eyelid procedure and be told that the receptionist will do it because she has been given two days of training last week on how to do it? How would you feel about that? A qualification is important for our industry as it is something conferring status as a recognised practitioner and that's exactly what we need if we are to maintain the integrity of our profession and take back our profession from those that are out to exploit it. While some have misunderstood my passion and my position on this issue, I am pleased to say that many are now coming around to understand the purpose of our position and that they have nothing to fear. We are not trying to intimidate anyone or restrict anyone's business. What we are trying to do is encourage everyone to understand that this is what is needed for our future survival and by working together we can secure a better postion for our The best way to achieve this is by having a strong industry profession. advocacy group that can define the needs and make intelligent recommendations to APAN and to the government. Advocacy is If you are in WA and wish to join our Chapter please contact important as we transition into a new era with independent APAN to discuss this further. If you are based in another State and accredited qualifications for our industry. Qualifications are the wish to set up a Chapter to represent the interest of your State only way for our industry to be protected and we must recognise APAN would love to speak with you. While APAN's Head Office this. You cannot define Code of Conduct or Scope of Practice ultimately holds the responsibility for the industry's without an objective educational benchmark for practitioners. advancement, it values the support of State Chapters for further That is the only mechanism that will help protect our industry and clarity and industry feedback through a local collective voice. gain recognitions by other professional and regulatory bodies. Join our registration categories and be an industry advocate and Many of our practices are advancing and as they instigate changes the voice of your industry, stay in touch with industry news, in the body they are moving more and more towards being events and developments. Join us and be part of the APAN classified as "healthcare". It therefore stands to reason that as all community of practice. committed professionals are required to adhere to standards based on qualifications in their area of expertise, we must also be Contact APAN on 07 55930360 or email info@apanetwork.com required to do the same. Can you imagine going to the doctor to issues. Often in WA we are left out of the loop and of course we always have to travel for education, so let's get together and develop our own training days right here in WA. If you're interested in participating register your interest through APAN. By combining our voices we can take back our profession from those that are out to exploit it?

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starperformer

STRATPHARMA introducing another winning product for post-procedure care

STRATACEL PATIENTS seeking skin rejuvenation and resurfacing treatments have high expectations. They want fast results and the best overall outcome of their treatment. Post procedure care is an important factor in achieving the best results, patient satisfaction and reduced downtime. Now there is a new breakthrough medical product specifically developed for use on sensitive skin areas immediately postrejuvenation procedures â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Stratacel from Stratpharma Switzerland. Stratacel is a flexible, film-forming wound dressing for the repair of damaged or compromised skin following dermal abrasion, laser resurfacing and chemical peels. When used as directed Stratacel dries to form a protective layer that is gas-permeable and waterproof, which hydrates and protects To achieve the best results, Stratacel should be applied once or compromised skin areas and superficial wounds from chemical twice daily to exposed areas of skin. Once dry it can be covered and microbial invasion. by sunscreen, cosmetics, pressure garments or casts. If a Stratacel's enhanced formula has been specifically developed for secondary dressing is required then it is not necessary to wait for sensitive areas such as around the eyes, nose and lips. On these Stratacel to dry before applying and you only need to re-apply areas it is particularly important to achieve a thin and even when changing the secondary dressing. distribution of the dressing. At the same time the dressing has to Stratacel is suitable for use with Strapharma's other film forming be very resistant to higher mechanical exposure. Stratacel has wound dressing, Stratamed. Stratamed can be used immediately been developed to provide the best possible results on these skin after all dermatological interventions (laser treatment, areas. dermabrasion, chemical peeling, tattoo removal etc.). The two Stratacel is a self-drying gel and when applied forms a film over products can be used in conjunction or alone. Both products are the wound. The result is a thin, transparent film that bonds lightly bacteriostatic and gas permeable and both form a film on to the most superficial damaged skin layer. This creates and compromised skin to hydrate and protect. maintains the optimal environment that enables the building Now you can provide your patients with breakthrough postblocks of new collagen and elastin. And because it forms a procedure care. Both Stratacel and Stratamed are medical flexible film, Stratacel will remain in full contact with the wound products and are registered with the TGA. even across skin folds and difficult to cover areas. When applied immediately post-procedure, Stratacel speeds up the healing process, reduces the post inflammatory burning sensation and soothes the treated skin. The patient is then more comfortable. Because Stratacel allows the exchange of gases it helps prevent maceration that may occur with fully occlusive dressings. As the healing process is faster, there is reduced down time for the patient following the procedure. Stratacel improves the visible outcome of the treatment when used immediately after the procedure .

To provide these products to your patients, or for more information contact Stratpharma on 1800 791 065 www.stratacel.com 100

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A breakthrough in post procedure care

Stratacel and Stratamed, applied immediately post procedure, speed up the healing process resulting in reduced downtime and improved aesthetic outcome.1 Strataderm is a medical product for the professional prevention and treatment of both old and new scars.

www.stratacel.com

www.stratamed.com

www.strataderm.com

Laser resurfacing1 – treatment with Stratacel following fractional laser resurfacing

Laser resurfacing (acne scars)2 –treatment with Stratamed in combination with thermage and CO2 fractional laser resurfacing.

Linear hypertrophic scar after surgery1 – monotherapy treatment with Strataderm

During treatment

Day 7

European Class IIa Medical Device FDA Listed/TGA approved

Day 0

Day 7

European Class IIa Medical Device FDA Listed/TGA approved

Day 0

Week 8, left scar untreated

European Class I Medical Device FDA Listed/TGA approved

SC-SM-SD-AU-017-1-1016

1800 567 007 Manufactured by: Stratpharma AG Centralbahnplatz 8 CH-4051 Basel Switzerland

Sponsor in Australia: A L Kerr Medical Pty Ltd 174 Willoughby Road Crows Nest NSW 2065 Tel: 1800 567 007

SC-SM-SD-APJ-Ad-A4-AU-017-1-1016.indd 1

Always read the label. Use only as directed. 1. Data on file. Stratpharma AG 2. Sandhofer M, Schauer P. Skinmed 2012; 10(6):1–7

Switzerland

17.10.16 15:35

salonbusiness

Proven strategies for building an EFFICIENT, EFFECTIVE, PRODUCTIVE and PROFITABLE AESTHETIC BUSINESS by Caroline Nelson THE REALITY of owning and operating a business is that you only prosper if you are making money, which means you have to quickly adapt to changing conditions, trends, technology, and consumer buying habits if the business is to remain viable. Staying relevant in a ever-changing industry takes accurate insight, commitment and passion to continually be at the forefront, otherwise it is very easy to slip behind and be overtaken by more vigorous competitors. The aesthetic industry is big on â&#x20AC;&#x153;passionâ&#x20AC;? but more often than not both management and staff direct this commitment to care and nurturing clients, forgetting the business also needs this same level of commitment and care if it's to prosper. Therefore if you and your team are too caught up with the 'touchy feely' aspect of the business you may have lost touch with the fact you're in business to make money. Like it or not money turns the wheels. Clients need to earn money to visit, they need to

spend this money and enough of it for you to pay your employees, pay your bills, keep the doors open and hopefully make a well-deserved profit. Operating your business to be efficient, effective, productive and profitable is the key. Sadly every single day we are losing passionate people from this industry because businesses are failing. And it's not just the business owners losing their investment. We are also losing many highly skilled and talented professionals who are failing to earn the income their qualifications should be providing. The single main reason professionals leave the industry is because of uncertain, unreliable or insufficient working hours. This is a very real issue and after all the education and training that has gone into developing these employees it is a crying shame to lose this talent because of lack of funds to pay for their employment.

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It's not a slowing economy that's closing businesses. It's more often the failure to adjust to the current commercial environment. With more competition and in many cases very savvy new players in the game-combine with the fact the cost of doing business has escalated, you have a lethal situation. Talking with business operators at the seminars I conduct throughout Australia and from phone calls to my office, I hear the sad tale of businesses that haven't adapted to the times. They are still trying to operate with outdated business models where they believe they need to constantly offer rock bottom specials in order to survive. This might have worked when operating costs were low, but it just can't be sustained at a commercial level today. There is no reason to stop your passion for nurturing clients as the soul of your business, but it must be combined with an insightful business sense, powerful profit-building strategies and strong leadership. Unfortunately, because in the main many salon owners start out as beauty therapy employees themselves with limited or no management background, they have no alternative but to carry forward the outdated management methods of their past employer who often has done exactly the same herself. So the circle keeps turning, repeating many of the same mistakes. If this is the case then the only alternative is to get out of this cycle and move with the times. To do this will require a change of thinking and action to focus more on “working on the business” and “less working in the business”. This in turn will kick-start the entrepreneurial mindset. Once the focus is firmly on the business you will be able to get out from under the “can't see the forest for the trees” mode to really see how your business can grow. It will open a whole new way to operate. I have noticed that this shift in mindset elevates the worry of “how can we get more clients” to “what opportunities are we missing with existing loyal clients and how can we ensure money being left on the table”. The entrepreneurs looks for ways to solve problems, and ways to increase average spend, while providing a superior result for the client. They are visionary thinkers who keep a finger firmly on the pulse of current consumer trends and are prepared to ditch treatments, products and even ideas if they have reached their “use by date” and no longer show a good profit margin.

is managed will ensure bills are paid and the bank balance grows. 3. Value each customer (client) by knowing and providing the best personalised attention, results outcomes including upgrade services, series of treatments and homecare requirements recommended and sold. This is good business, but as importantly, it ensures the client becomes an ambassador for your business. 4. Build a Team of Experts not just employees who perform services, but also experts who have the ability to also solve clients' problems. Provide these experts with the latest scientific technology, tools to analysis and training to achieve outstanding results and deliver on the “brand promise” you proudly promote and market. 5. Level the playing field by first thoroughly researching and then investing in the best technology and products available that enable your business to deliver higher, better and quicker results 6. Create marketing visibility in your trade area by your Unique Selling Proposition (USP) that brands your business in a memorable and compelling way so all who consider your aesthetic services choose your business over your competitors. 7. Invest in yourself it will be an investment in the businesses bottom-line profitability. Every successful entrepreneur I have ever known is current with what is happening in their industry through subscribing to magazines, journals, reports, newsletters and industry publications. They are regular delegates of seminars to hone their skills realising you can always learn more. But what really stands an entrepreneur apart is that they seek experts to help and support them in reaching their goals and they quickly adapt and implement new, improved methods. In fact, all successful entrepreneurs, like athletes, have a coach to help them improve skills to reach their “personal best”. A business needs this opportunity to achieve the highest profit potential.

I am fortunate to work with many business owners whom I have successfully coached as entrepreneurs. They will confirm that it's not always an easy journey, but will also admit the changes, improvements and re-jigging of their business, brought renewed growth and profitability. If you need expert help to guide you on your journey to build an efficient, These are some of the steps I encourage my clients to effective, productive and profitable aesthetic business feel free implement if they want to build an efficient, effective, to contact me. productive and profitable aesthetic business in the entrepreneurial method: © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2016 1.

Plan everything and start by conducting a SWOT analysis (strengths, weaknesses, opportunities and threats) researching and compiling data then create the action steps or blueprint on how to move forward achieving goals and targets in the most direct effective way. Adopt wise money management skills and fully understand the monthly “profit & loss”. And while cash flow is the lifeblood of any business, how well it

Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specialises in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profits. She is also the author of the Ignite Your Beauty Business For $uccess- Salon, Staff Policies Procedures & Systems manual. To learn more about her stepby-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 0410 600 440.

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salonprofile

Naturaliste Skin Clinic

A Rising Star in Western Australia's South West AN AMAZING CLINIC is making waves in the picturesque City of Busselton, a local government area in the South West region of Western Australia, approximately 230 kilometres south of Perth. The city covers an area of 1,455 square kilometres and has an estimated population of 31,767.

APJ Q1: COMING FROM A NURSING BACKGROUND WHAT MADE YOU ENTER THE AESTHETICS INDUSTRY?

I graduated with a Bachelor of Science (RN) in 1991 and travelled the world utilising my nursing training. I started in the Cosmetic Industry about 12 years ago working in a medical clinic alongside Dr Scott McGregor who was treating skin cancers at the time. It contains two large towns, Busselton and Dunsborough as well Together we treated clients with IPL for sun damage, as a number of smaller towns. It is in this region that Kylie Smith, pigmentation, rosacea and skin inflammation as our primary together with Dr Scott McGregor, are servicing and focus was always improving the skin.

"beautifying" the local residents with cutting-edge skin and We quickly realised the area of growth within the industry was cosmetic medicine services, which they are providing through cosmetic injectables, so soon after we added this to our clinical Naturaliste Skin Clinic. practice. Back then we were the only clinicians in our area offering these treatments so we had to educate the community and

We are delighted to profile Kylie's story and her journey in the our clients on these services. We found that incorporating beauty fascinating world of aesthetics and cosmetic medicine. therapy services was a natural progression and we continued to

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expand into all areas of skin and beauty over the years. We learnt 0

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early on that many businesses were offering the same treatment as we did. However, they often lacked sufficient knowledge and were selling pre-set treatments that didn't really work. This led us to hone in on our service and treatment model where we provided high standards of treatment outcomes that were scientifically sound and evidence-based. Our focus was to ensure our clients the best possible results through a medically-based approach supported by friendly and inviting environment.

over just an amazingly presented resume. Over time we have identified the specific attributes from potential staff that will provide the best value to our business, and benefit our reputation and our client retention and growth.

APJ Q4: HOW MANY STAFF DO YOU HAVE AND HOW DO YOU ENSURE THEY ARE UP-TO-DATE WITH THEIR SKILLS AND KNOWLEDGE? At the moment we have 14 staff including myself and Dr

APJ Q2: WHAT IS THE FOCUS OF YOUR BUSINESS AND McGregor. We value continuing education very highly and WHAT ARE YOUR VALUES? encourage all of our staff to participate in higher learning. Our Naturaliste Skin Clinic was originally started by Dr McGregor at a medical clinic. However after I joined the business we expanded our services and very soon we opened a second clinic in the next town, while we moved our original clinic into an independent premises.

business supports the staff who are upskilling, either by offering joint funding for tertiary fees, time off for practical commitments, funding for local courses and updating their clinical skills.

Each year Dr McGregor and myself attend an industry conference such as ASAPS or Cosmetex to keep abreast of the latest From the beginning our model was to primarily offer beauty and techniques in injectables, laser treatments, new cosmeceutical skin treatments and then introduce clients to injectables, after we ingredients and peel therapies. I attend the Allergan yearly secured their trust and confidence in our work. conference in Sydney and endeavour to obtain entry for one of our nurses to attend as well. We attend the APAN conference when in We operate with very high standards and our values require that Perth and I usually bring 3-5 staff each year. Rationale, our we use proven products and treatments to skincare brand, visits us each year at least 2-3 ensure the integrity of our services. From the times and we get all of the staff to attend very beginning we only used researchedintensive training to keep their knowledge and based products and technologies that can skills updated. Allergan attend our clinics every assure our clients of proven results. This has three months for clinical facilitations and I try to always been our highest priority and still is to run a monthly training day with all of the nurses this day. We aim for amazing level of to enhance their knowledge and skills and customer service and only offer treatments provide a networking platform. that will deliver promised results with the backing of industry research and medicalI insist within our organisation that all of the grade products and technologies. That is our therapists have all of their formal credentials and competitive advantage. certification in place. The therapists that perform

APJ Q3: WHEN SELECTING STAFF WHAT ARE THE MOST IMPORTANT ATTRIBUTES YOU LOOK FOR? Our requirements demand a diverse range of services, so our staff range from receptionists, beauty therapists, dermal therapists, registered nurses and our medical officer and manager. When employing staff across our two clinics, the qualities that we value the most has changed over the years. In the beginning we tried to find people with the best qualifications who could walk into the position without any training. After years of trying to retrain staff, we now have a different set of attributes that we look for. Different roles require different skill sets. For example our receptionists must demonstrate efficiency and attention to detail, but the most important attribute is their people skills â&#x20AC;&#x201C; having the ability to communicate with care, confidence and warmth that is inviting to clients the moment they walk through our door. These are the most important qualities that we look for. I call it the Peacock Factor!

IPL must have a current laser safety certificate and those performing IPL skin rejuvenation must have an appropriate qualification such as Certificate in Dermal Therapies or be an RN. Every two years our organisation funds for a Laser and IPL trainer from CYNOSURE to fly in from the East Coast to upskill and update everyone's training to ensure we stay abreast of any changes within the industry and have current certification. All RN's have current nurse's registration sighted and yearly CPR course attendance is also mandatory. We do monthly in- house training and we also have a thorough induction training schedule when new staff start with us.

APJ Q5: WHAT INDUSTRY CHANGES HAVE YOU EXPERIENCED OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS? Our organisation covers a broad range of services from beauty to medical level skin management, so we always have a keen interest in what's happening across the whole spectrum. 100

The beauty side of the industry has definitely become more advanced and therapists are expected to constantly grow their knowledge of the skin as well as up-skill in the area of procedures On the other hand, when considering therapists and nurses there is and protocols to be able to deliver higher levels of treatment no replacing experience and knowledge. Their training and outcomes. No more fluffy facials. The demand these days by qualifications are high on our priority list. We look for attributes consumers is for tangible results. such as striving for excellence, having a keen desire to constantly learn and grow. We also look for a cheerful and collaborative The industry is experiencing more specialisation with the brow approach to working as a team player and value such qualities bars, lash specialists, mani/pedi clinics and teeth whitening

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services all being delivered by individuals who are specialising in achieve and maintain their best skin possible. We give honest appraisals and will not offer treatments that we do not think will these services. be effective. I believe that our clients choose our clinic over others All skin therapists now need to have a comprehensive knowledge because we offer honesty and high quality treatments with proven of cosmetic medicine and also the various surgical procedure results and we are committed to safe practice and great aftercare. options to some degree as these are becoming more commonplace and client now seek the appropriate professional guidance of the In addition to our base in the southwest, we have been offering the best options available to them. Today's consumers are more same quality, honest treatments to regional areas of WA from informed and educated and expect a higher level of knowledge Kununurra to Albany for the past six years. Our focus has been and professionalism from their therapist and also definitely want offering cosmetic injectables, however we also offer IPL and laser in selected sites across Western Australia. better results for their money. Cosmetic injectables are now being offered nearly on every corner and there has been an influx of new start-up clinics. Unfortunately, a large majority of clients chase the cheap deal and often get what they pay for! Let's hope this settles with the introduction of new legislation effective October 1st, this year, which provides a tighter framework for all cosmetic treatments.

APJ Q7: WHAT EXCITES YOU THE MOST ABOUT YOUR WORK?

I love what I do and love coming to work every day! On the surface people see cosmetic injectables as vanity, superficial and all about just appearance. This is often due when the procedure has been poorly done. To be honest a lot of clinicians do it badly and make the client look horrendous. I cringe every day looking at APJ Q6: WHY DO YOU BELIEVE THAT CLIENTS CHOOSE how some people have had procedures. The truth is I get to make YOUR CLINIC OVER OTHERS? WHAT IS YOUR people feel better about themselves every day and I do it in a way that takes into account their motivation, their emotions, their COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE? We have the only medically-owned and operated clinic here in the budget and their concerns. South West of WA and we offer clients a full experience from facials and beauty therapy to advanced skin treatments, medical A great job to me is when someone views my client and they have grade laser treatments, medical grade skincare and cosmetic no idea any work has been done, but they just feel that the person injectables using only leading and reputable products. Clients no looks fresher or healthier. Its empowering to help people achieve longer have to travel to the city to receive these treatments. We are this when they come to me feeling like they look tired or stressed. committed to delivering the best available technologies and I love educating them about ways that our services and injectables treatments for individual clients in an honest and collaborative can improve them in such a positive way. Successfully, achieving way, and to form long-term relationships with clients so they can this is why my clients keep coming back to me for years - it's a journey towards improvement and sometimes this takes time to achieve.

APJ Q8: WHAT ARE YOUR ASPIRATIONS FOR THE FUTURE? I see my future in teaching and empowering other nurses to embrace the cosmetic industry to make positive changes for their clients. I love teaching and this is where I believe I am heading. I have the support from industry suppliers to teach other nurses and I want to provide a network of sharing and collaboration for cosmetic nurses across the industry and provide for them a platform for learning and support.

APJ Q9: WHY DID YOU JOIN APAN AND WHAT VALUE DOES IT BRING TO YOUR BUSINESS? APAN is a great professional network of like-minded clinicians across all levels who work within the cosmetic industry. I love the support, the networking opportunities and the journal that APAN provides to further mine and my staffâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s education with changes in the industry. It is always relevant and informative. The support network has been utilised by myself and my business over the years and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s invaluable to know that we belong to such an organisation.

Naturaliste Skin Clinic (NSC) Ph: 08 9751 3066, 1/12 Street, Busselton, W.A 6280

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APAN launches three more NATIONAL AESTHETICS CONFERENCES in 2017

You give to others - let us give back to you The APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE PROGRAMS are not just educational. They offer you valuable tools to benchmark and assess your current commercial knowledge and understanding of new technologies, industry advanced and business strategies against non-biased, research and scientifically-validated information. You will gain powerful tools to determine the most credible pathway for your professional and business success. WHY YOU SHOULD ATTEND: ! Unique perspective on new advances ! Regulatory changes and how to best prepare for them ! Scientific advances ! New partnerships to help your business grow ! Unbiased, independent education information ! Business strategies ! Global trends

ADELAIDE MAY 28 BRISBANE JULY 30 MELBOURNE SEPTEMBER 24 Mark these dates in your diary.

CTITIO NE PRA

ORK TW

AESTHETIC

Gain inspiration and become invigorated to step up your professional and business services. Knowledge is power | Gain the winning edge | Be part of a dynamic community of practice.

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VISORY NE

GREAT NETWORKING | EDUCATION | LEADING INDUSTRY STRATEGIES | REGULATION UPDATES | CONSUMER TRENDS

www.apanetwork.com | info@apanetwork.com | 07 5593 0360

COVERSTORY

SKEYNDOR celebrates their 50th anniversary with more than 50 countries represented TO MARK their 50th Anniversary, SKEYNDOR recently Mediterranean and under the arms of the impressive Pyrenees, celebrated by hosting their International Partners Meeting for land of the arts and genius of Salvador DalĂ, was the idyllic scene in which were combined days of work and leisure activities. 2016 which was held Costa Brava. Without doubt, it was the best way to celebrate 50 years of The event brought together international distributors who have SKEYNDOR with the people who have trusted and continue to shared the past, present and now the future of a historic company trust in the brand and the perfect allies to feeling better in their that is acknowledged as a leader in professional cosmetics. The skin. Mas Tapiolas Hotel & Spa in the heart of Costa Brava was the venue chosen to celebrate this momentous milestone. 50 HAS NEVER LOOKED BETTER While the International Partners Meeting is an annual event, this year's meeting was a very special occasion as it coincided with SKEYNDOR's 50th Anniversary. It was attended by representatives of the 50 countries where the brand has a grand presence.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY AND CONGRATULATIONS SKEYNDOR As in all of life's milestones, reaching 50 is an occasion to be fondly and brilliantly celebrated. In the beauty world it seems all the more significant and challenging as much can happen in half a century. There are brands that stay with us all our lives and, without a doubt, this is true of SKEYNDOR.

The three fabulous days of the International Partners Meeting And while the company is celebrating its birthday, it also 2016 opened new pathways and projects for all, as they shared the celebrates with those who have trusted and continue to put their vision and strategy which will define the years to come. trust in the integrity of this outstanding brand to make them feel The glorious surroundings of EmpordĂ , bathed by the beautiful better about themselves and look beautiful every day.

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The journey of two families that began in Spain was soon to capture and embrace the rest of the world.

WHEN DID IT ALL BEGIN? The decision to put their scientific knowledge to the service of a new beauty concept started in 1966 when Publio Puente, Doctor in Chemical Sciences, and, Paris-born Juan Morcillo, industrial engineer, who were both lecturers at the University of Catalonia, (School of Engineering) came together and founded SKEYNDOR. The word means 'golden skin' in Spanish.

Jordi Morcillo, CEO SKEYNDOR (SPAIN), Luca Mora, CEO SKEYNDOR (Australia) and Julius Borbely, Director SKEYNDOR (Australia)

SKEYNDOR upholds the values that have accompanied and distinguished it throughout its long history in the beauty world. When you think of SKEYNDOR, honesty, commitment, authenticity and excellence in innovation come to mind. Highly committed and continuing in its innovations the company is adapting to advances and changing consumer demands and are leading with new trends and the latest in cosmetic concepts. Today SKEYNDOR remains as a family concern, making the occasion all the more unique. SKEYNDOR is still in the hands of its founding partners – the Morcillo-Mur and the Puente-Garrido families.

A meeting of exceptional minds and remarkable talent, Juan Morcillo brought to SKEYNDOR both business and managerial vision, while Publio Puente headed up the research laboratory and product development. Today, the visionary of SKEYNDOR is CEO Jordi Morcillo, the son of one of the original founders.

SKEYNDOR is an international reference, thanks to the scientific rigour applied to all its formulae and the extraordinary advances that have mapped out its career. Innovation has become somewhat of an obsession, and SKEYNDOR's success is attributed to their huge investment in research, development and education every year. It’s a policy of investing every cent of the profits back into the company. Being a family business, they can do just that without relying on complex corporate structures.

What began with verve, passion and commitment in Terrassa, Spain continues today at its headquarters.

Training rooms – SKEYNDOR head office Spain

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SKEYNDOR'S ACHIEVEMENT MILESTONES 1988: The introduction of Liposomes onto the 2010:

The launch of DermaPeel + Urban White professional market. The first encapsulated formula of ranges, the first ever genetic depigmenting and active ingredients that minimise the risk of allergies whitening treatment for a new approach that effectively treats spots, freckles & hyperpigmentation without side and/or irritation. effects. 1994: The launch of a 30% glycolic peel buffered at a 4.5 pH which offered outstanding results in anti-ageing 2012: The pioneering Global Lift range were and improvement in skin condition. At that time AHA's introduced. Global Lift's exclusive technology, [ProGENin], which uses anti-senescence marker techniques to equalled a breakthrough in the cosmetics field. improve the functionality of cells, re-establish facial 1995: Presented with the "Laus de Oro" Award for fullness, definition and contour and address the Excellence in Concept and Design for the Natural traditional markers of ageing. Defence line. 2013: The introduction of Power C+ featuring a 1996: The development of a unique oxygen delivery professional in salon facial treatment and home care products that merged two super powers of the anticarrier system in the emulsions. oxidant world ~ a pure, high-concentration and 1999: The unveiling of the Retinol line where Pure professional grade Vitamin C for maximum absorption, penetration, stability and performance and Vitamin A was encapsulated in Nanospheres. Pomegranate HG extract. 2003: The introduction of Microdermabrasion at a professional level using a unique triple exfoliation 2014: The pioneering Power Hyaluronic line that system of mechanical, enzymatic and bio-technological includes a professional facial and homecare products that combine both very low and very high molecular protocols. weight hyaluronic acid for a first in cosmetics. It uses an 2004: The Hydra-Filler range introduced 10x (ten Aquaporin activator that transport water and actives to times) volumising micro-capsules for filling in wrinkles. the inside of the cells for intense and long lasting hydration. 2006: The launch of Aquatherm Line, a first for skincare that contained thermal water with the richest 2015: The cutting edge and specialised Power magnesium content in the world. A result of its exclusive Hyaluronic Eyes + Lashes professional treatment agreement with the Termas de Salies-de-Bearn (French mimicks an eye lift, strengthens and enhances lash Pyrenees). density and intensely firms the area. In addition to the advanced home care product. 2007: Virtual Mesotherapy Electroporation. A first to introduce Mesoscience-Virtual needle equipment for 2015: Next generation Power Retinol salon based a cosmetic manufacturer design and development of a treatment and home care products that uses an device to be used in conjunction with skincare products. advanced and pure Retinol formulation in concentrated form, transported and delivered deep within the cells to 2008: The beginning of a new era and the Eternal boost the skin's natural cellular regeneration. featuring a professional treatment and home care products containing plant origin stem cell nano- 2016: Breakthrough in skin resurfacing and renovating liposomes as the active ingredient. This was developed with the launch of DermaPeelPRO. Offering a multiby SKEYNDOR's in-house R+D department. The layer sequential treatment protocol and a five peeling product was subsequently awarded the European technique for superior rejuvenation without downtime or Academy of Cosmetics prize for the most innovative irritation. This first in treatment protocol combines Enzymatic and AHA peels together with peptides. active ingredient. Advanced professional facial treatments are supported 2009: The creation and launch of the revolutionary also by homecare products. Corrective line. An alternative to invasive surgery with For further information on Skeyndor actives that soften expression lines and fill in wrinkles, Email: info@skeyndoraustralia.com | Ph: 1 800 554 545 | visit producing a visible effect after just a few minutes. www.skeyndoraustralia.com | find us on facebook.com/skeyndoraustralia. APJ 34

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

AS MANY within the aesthetics industry would know, Daniel Clifford is the Director and Service Manager of ClinicalPRO, a leading skincare, healthcare and equipment company that has serviced the aesthetics industry for over 30 years. Metro-Dora Clifford is the Managing Director of the company and the proud mother of Daniel. Both are committed to delivering incredible products and exceptional education to the aesthetics and cosmetic medical professional sector of the industry.

Congratulations to Daniel and Julia

On Saturday, 10th September, Daniel married the love of his life, the charming Julia Minuzzo. Among family, friends and colleagues, Daniel and Julia were married at Good Shepherd Baptist Church, in Albany Creek, Brisbane. A Gala Dinner was held at the Hotel Grand Chancellor in Brisbane City to celebrate the nuptials. Our best wishes go to Daniel and Julia as they start their life together as husband and wife. We understand that there is talk that Julia may be joining Daniel in the business.

INGREDIENT MIMICS LIFE EXTENSION EFFECTS OF CALORIE RESTRICTED DIET A commonly used skincare ingredient is one of several newly identified compounds that can mimic the life-extending effect of a starvation diet, new University of Liverpool research has revealed.

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Calorie restriction, a reduction in calorie intake without malnutrition, has been found to slow down the ageing process in

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several animal models from worms to mammals, and developing drugs that can reproduce this effect without the s i d e e ff e c t s , c o u l d h a v e w i d e s p r e a d h u m a n applications.Using complex genetic data analysis and testing, scientists have shown for the first time that allantoin, which is found in botanical extracts of the comfrey plant and is an ingredient of many anti-ageing creams, can mimic the effect of calorie restriction and increase lifespan in worms by more than 20%.

eleven potential compounds were identified. Five of these were then tested in nematode worms.

The researchers found that worms treated with allantoin, rapamycin, trichostatin A and LY-294002 not only lived longer, but also stayed healthier longer. Additionally, when the same compounds were tested in mutant worms they extended lifespan in a way expected from calorie restriction. Further molecular analysis of allantoin suggests it acts by a different mechanism from rapamycin, a well-known Dr João Pedro de Magalhães, from the Liverpool longevity drug. University's Institute of Integrative Biology, who led the study, said: "Calorie restriction has been shown to have PhD student Shaun Calvert, who carried out the work said: health benefits in humans and, while more work is necessary, "Testing anti-ageing interventions in humans is not practical, our findings could potentially result in human therapies for so developing computational methods to predict longevity drugs is of great use. "We have shown so far that our age-related diseases.” compounds work in worms, but studies in mammalian To identify potential calorie restriction mimetic compounds, models are now necessary. The next step for us is to the team made use of existing molecular signatures from understand the mechanisms by which allantoin extends human cells treated with a variety of small-molecule drugs. lifespan, as this could reveal new longevity pathways.” Using pattern-matching algorithms to make connections between drug compounds and calorie restriction effects, Ref: https://www.sciencedaily.com

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TARGETTED DELIVERY SYSTEMS REACHING A NEW LEVEL To satisfy the growing consumer demand for results-driven As skin whitening, anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle trends are expectations from their skincare, manufacturers are leading the market demand, cosmetic manufactures are constantly looking at ways to improve the efficient and competing with the success of medical and pharmaceutical specific delivery of ingredients in their formulations.

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grade skincare and technologies to retain and grow their market Some of these delivery systems were originally used with particular drug carriers in cancer therapy. They theorised that if share and their commercial advantage. a particle can vectorise to release a drug into a target cell, why Several leading research companies this year when presenting not do the same with a cosmetic active using skin cells as the results to their global cosmetic growth forecast, identified targets. one of the major threats for skincare manufacturers as "Advanced Beauty Treatments". The drive to compete with Active targeting, which is also called ligand-mediated such results means that skincare needs to achieve a level of on- targeting, involves utilising affinity ligands on the surface going improvement and not just a temporary feel good carrier particles for specific retention and uptake by the targeted cells. These ligands are selected to bind surface experience. receptors over-expressed in the targeted cell. The new To achieve this level of result, Barcelona-based biotechnology technology will also contribute to stability and efficacy of the company Infinitec has created a new delivery system for active system. These new advances will mean that new skincare ingredients that target specific cells and release active formulations will be able to achieve much better delivery of ingredients where needed. The new Drone technology active ingredients to targeted skin cells and therefore better skin contains a range of capsules composed of bio-compatible improvement prospects. polymers that entrap active ingredients.

DONKEY MILK SKINCARE - THIS IS NOT A JOKE! Yes, you now have heard it first – donkey's milk is the next big thing in cosmetic formulations. Rich in lactose and low in fat, donkey milk is said by experts to be the closest animal milk to the human variety. The UN's Food and Agriculture Organisation says it has “particular nutritional benefits”, with a protein profile that may make it more suitable for those allergic to cow's milk. Dr Photis Papademas, a lecturer in dairy science at the Cyprus University of Technology, has been interviewing people who've been drinking the milk regularly and says they report “remarkable results”, especially among children with asthma, eczema and other skin conditions. Donkey's milk contains anti-bacterial enzymes and anti-allergens, he says; scientific research papers on its potential benefits for allergies and skin complaints have multiplied in the past three years. “The milk looks promising although as a scientist, Dr Papdemas said. “I'm always cautious and we

need clinical studies to validate further evidence. British aficionados can buy donkey milk products such as soaps, moisturisers and creams online. These come mainly from a French company supplied by a Swiss-Italian firm that also produces powdered donkey milk formula for babies and children allergic to cow and soy milks. Donkey milk products have demonstrated remarkable relief from itchy skin conditions including eczema and psoriasis. Rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, D and E the donkey's milk albumins have the ability to absorb moisture and deliver it to the skin creating a moisturising shield on the skin.

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Consumers are always on the lookout for something that can perform better. With their claim to provide vitamin enriched exceptional hydration, it is believed we will soon see these products on the Australian market. Ref: http://nymag.com/thecut/2015/01/will-donkeymilk-make-you-more-beautiful.html

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd

ANTI-POLLUTION INGREDIENTS – THE EMERGING NEW TREND With evidence that cities and environmental pollution is contributing the premature ageing, new ingredients have been identified that will help shield and protect the skin from toxic gases entering the skin. Cosmetic DesignEurope editor, Lucy Whitehouse recently discussed at a webinar "The Potential of Anti-pollution: What's driving the trend, and where it is heading?" The lecture presented the factors that are fuelling the rise of the trend, the current status of the anti-pollution segment in skincare formulations, the future of the trend and she also discuss the market’s leading brands and products and what they are getting right. The fact is, we've known for years that irritants in the air (like cigarette smoke, for instance) age skin and a recent study has specifically linked air pollution to an increase in age spots . Dr Engelman, Clinical Professor of Medicine at the University of California says pollutants cause hyperpigmentation, inflammation, a breakdown of collagen and elastin and leave you with rough, damaged skin. So, while UV rays are still the top priority in ageing, think of the bad things in the air as the second tier of agers to block. "If a person is regularly avoiding excessive sun exposure, never gets tan and always uses sunscreen, pollution is the next skin 'worry' they should tackle with daily antioxidants and proper cleansing," says Dr Tanzi. The anti-pollution trend in skincare is fast becoming a central focus for consumers and formulators alike. This is definitely a new consumer-driven trend. For further information on this subject visit http://fashionista.com/2016/04/anti-pollution-skincare APJ 38

FEB. 26-27

Professional Beauty Excel, Royal Victoria Dock, Newham, London, E16 1XL T: +44 (0) 20 7351 0536 Email: info@professionalbeauty.co.uk

MARCH 19-20

Esthetique SPA International Vancouver Convention Centre Vancouver (British Columbia) Canada T: + 450 434-4738 Fax: +450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

MARCH 25-26

Salon Melbourne Melbourne Exhibition and Convention Centre T: 02 9211 7544 Email: salon@infosalons.com.au

MARCH 12-14

Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Javits Convention Center New York NY, USA T: + 203.736.1699 Web: http://www.iecsc.com/ny

MARCH 26-27

Professional Beauty CTICC Cape Town South Africa T: + 44 (0)844 557 0914 Email: info@professionalbeauty.co.uk

MARCH 16-19

Cosmoprof Bologna Bologna – Fair District T: + 39 02 796420 F: + 39 02 795036 Email: info@cosmoprof.it

MARCH 25-27

Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference McCormick Place Chicago USA T: + 1 212 8958237 Web: http://www.iecsc.com

APRIL 2-3

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas Arlington Convention Center Arlington, Texas T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com

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AUSMED INTERNATIONAL Making waves in the

AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS BUSINESS WORLD To succeed in today's competitive business environment when it comes to equipment technology you need to excel in three key areas: 1. Quality, reliable, cutting-edge technology that is backed by science and TGA approval 2. Exceptional service that delivers on-going support 3. Competitively priced without compromising on quality Meeting and exceeding the needs of the industry Ausmed provide exceptional, high performance aesthetic and cosmetic medical devices. In a short time they have achieved industry recognition for their high performance Intense Pulse Light (IPL) devices, diode lasers and advanced technologies for body shaping and toning that can deliver a broad range of treatments from face to body. We can provide you with exceptional devices to deliver amazing body contouring results through to treatment of various skin conditions as well as advanced skin rejuvenation results. Our machines are competitively priced to make them affordable without compromising on quality. All our devices are ergonomically designed and are user friendly for both efficacy and ease of use. Designed to deliver exact and precise treatment outcomes they will ensure that you can guarantee your clients excellent results each and every time.

We Offer:

! ! ! ! ! !

TGA approved Professional Equipment 12 months warranty Marketing support 24 hr call back service Training with each Purchase C o m p l i m e n t a r y demonstrations by Appointment

HERE ARE JUST TWO OF OUR LEADING STAR PERFORMERS: Med Pulse SHR (latest in IPL technology) for Hair Reduction, Pigmentation, skin rejuvenation and vascular If you are looking for a modern device that can deliver effective treatment outcomes for a wide range of optionss then Ausmed's Med Pulse SHR offer the latest technology. It provides safe, effective permanent hair reduction with minimum discomfort due to its advanced technology power cooling system. Furthermore the Ausmed's Med Pulse SHR also offers effective treatment options for skin rejuvenation, pigmentation and vascular treatments in the one device. It delivers precise energy output in three therapeutic modes: traditional IPL mode, Fly Point mode and SHR in motion SHR mode that is suitable for all skin types with minimum discomfort. You can expect a super strong IPL power supply - 2000w with fast repetition rate maximum 10 shots per second with the SHR mode. Its slim and delicate modern designed hand pieces allow ease of use and optimal network management functions.

DioMed-100: Diode laser for hair reduction If you prefer to work with a laser then Ausmed's DioMed-100 is an amazing device specifically designed for hair reduction. It can emit laser light at 808nm wavelength that can be absorbed by melanin located in the hair follicle. The hair shaft can also absorb the energy destroying the hair follicle for effective removal. It offers safe energy delivery, continuous contact cooling to the epidermis, while its ergonomically designed finger trigger offers easy, comfortable operation.

For further details Contact Ausmed International Pty Ltd Ph: 02 8957 2177, Mob: 0424 795 652 www.ausmedlaser.com.au

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Med-QLaser

Q-Switched ND:

YAG Laser Therapy System

For Effective Removal of Tattoos and Pigmented Lesions Med-QLaser TM is a new-generation device integrated with real-time energy monitor, energy auto-changing by adjustable handpiece, water filtration system, guaranteeing safety and efficacy during usage. It offers dual-wavelength switching of 1064nm and 532nm pulse width shot to 5nm and energy output up to 1000mJ. New UI ergonomic design makes user experience simpler and more convenient.

ACHIEVED CERTIFICATION FROM:

] FDA ] Medical CE ] Australian TGA ] Multiple global patents

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Tel/Fax,02 8957 2177 Mobile: 0424 795 652

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Product Innovations Dermatonics® Rejuvenating Moisturiser Rejuvenating Moisturiser from Dermatonics consists of a powerful combination of medicinal botanical extracts specifically infused to nurture skin. It boasts an antioxidant-rich defence system that boosts your skin’s ability to deal with and protect against a daily build-up of free radicals, while delivering ultra-smooth and moisturised skin. This formula supports skin rejuvenation and improves hydration levels. Best when applied to the skin twice daily for a super-rejuvenation finish. You will experience an instant absorption by your skin of our Nutridermaceuticals™, also boosting firmness in that same instance. Dermatonics offer a complete range of a new generation skincare products. Highly active and beautifully presented these products are guarantee to deliver results and repeat sales.

For further details contact Catherine at Skin BioMedics Institute on 0412 245 645.

SKEYNDOR ETERNAL SLEEPING NIGHT OIL The new Eternal Sleeping Night Oil is an advanced cosmetic formula with active ingredients that deliver multiple benefits to the skin, stimulating cell renewal, repairing the epidermis and detoxifying for a renewed and more youthful skin. Sleeping Night Oil contains several actives to stimulate cell turnover and protects epidermal stem-cell DNA, thanks to the potent properties of Sea Kale extract. In addition, SKEYNDOR merges Sea Fennel Extract with five exquisite natural oils including Avocado, Wheatgerm, Macademia and the exquisite essential oils of Jasmine, Ylang Ylang and Bitter Orange to boost wellbeing and promote a more restful sleep, which accelerates the skin's ability to regenerate even further. “While we sleep, the skin goes through reparative phases. It is at this time it is more receptive to the active ingredients we apply allowing them to be absorbed more readily to do their best work.” says Luca Mora, CEO, SKEYNDOR in Australia. Using Eternal you can expect to experience significant and long lasting improvement in deep and superficial lines, hydration levels, volume, clarity and skin texture. The new Sleeping Night Oil is a luxurious formula that boosts the overnight restorative and regenerative process of the skin. The Eternal line features a professional treatment, and is supported with four home care products in addition to the Body Repair Serum.

Please email info@skeyndoraustralia, call 1 800 554 545 or visit www.skeyndoraustralia.com and chat with us on facebook.com/skeyndoraustralia.

Dermatonics® Revitalising Eye Cream SKEYNDOR Royal Jelly 50th Anniversary Edition Box To celebrate their 50th year, SKEYNDOR relaunches one of their most iconic product lines, Royal Jelly – exquisitely presents in a distinctive Anniversary Edition Box. The three Royal Jelly products - Serum, Fluid and Cream capture the unique properties of this extraordinary element and merges them with proteins extracted from silk to awaken the skin's beauty to bring an exceptional brightness and freshness to the complexion. Royal Jelly is a powerful and potent elixir of life for the skin. Rich in amino acids, enzymes and a Vitamin B complex. It works to boost the repair and regeneration mechanisms of skin tissue. Softening the effects of premature ageing, Royal Jelly also possesses anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and wound healing benefits, while supporting hydration levels and protecting the skin. The Royal Jelly 50th Anniversary Edition Collection includes the moisturising Royal Jelly Serum in a concentrated formula of Royal Jelly and Hyaluronic Acid, Royal Jelly Fluid, which contains revitalising silk protein, while Royal Jelly Cream combines precious vegetable oils and silk protein. The products are designed for all skin types and to be used both morning and night, or under th makeup. The Royal Jelly 50 Anniversary Edition Box features 30ml Serum (all skins), 50ml Fluid (oily skin) and 50ml Cream (for normal to dry skins).

Please call 1 800 554 545, email: info@skeyndoraustralia.com, or visit w w w.ske yndo rau st rali a.co. Please also chat with us on facebook.com/skeyndoraustralia.

An amazing new generation product has been introduced to the Australian market. Utilising the latest advances in biotechnology, this revolutionary natural, organic skincare product range ticks all the boxes, bringing a new level of treatment outcome that is unparalleled. One of its signature products is the Dermatonics ® Revitalising Eye Cream. This products helps to visibly reduce the appearance of dark circles and tone the delicate eye area. Enriched with potent medicinal plant antioxidants and Nutridermaceutical Technology ™, it helps refine wrinkles and revitalise the eye area. 100

Active ingredients include: T h e o b ro m a g r a n d i f l o r u m ( C u p u a c u b u t t e r ) , Morindacitrifolia (Noni extract) and Resveratrol-rich grape extract that help promote a complexion visible in young looking skin around the delicate eye area. Revitalising Eye Cream aids in the reduction of the signs of ageing such as crow's feet and dehydration.

For further details contact Catherine at Skin BioMedics Institute on 0412 245 645.

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Present perfect... That’s Christmas with ZADOR MINERAL BAR COLLECTION – The ultimate gift of beauty and style The most memorable and treasured Christmas gift we can give is the one that makes that special someone's heart melt. For the girl who has almost everything, the ZADOR Mineral Bar Christmas Gift Collection is perfect. Simply put, they are matches made in bathing heaven – opulent and beautiful and almost too pretty to use, the ZADOR Cleansing Bars contain the healing and regenerative properties of the famous Heviz medicinal thermal waters. Europe's largest hot spring, it is recognised globally for its unique high mineral content and its own probiotic, a very powerful protein and cellulose decomposer that can be only be found at Heviz. Surfacing from a depth of 1,000 metres these minerals reach their final destination … the ZADOR soaps. A wealth of beauty and wellness benefits, each is loaded with Vitamins from A to K. These deeply nourishing, moisturising and repairing bars contain other skin stars including Shea Butter, age-fighting Pistachio Oil, a rich source of essential fatty acids and Vitamin E, soothing Calendula and Chamomile Extracts and precious oils such as Grapeseed, Olive and Wheatgerm. ZADOR Christmas Gift Collection allows you to personalise by selecting your own choice of three from the range of: Pure, Fig Pear, Lavender-Verbena, Cherry Blossom, Cocoa, Paprika, Red Grape and Rose. Impeccably presented in a sleek black box and ribbon-finished.

Please email info@zador.com.au, visit zador.com.au or call Vogue Image Group Ph 1800 554 545 for more information.

Achieve a new level of deep, facial cleansing with the effective bt-Sonic™ Achieve a deeper, more purified skin during cleansing and exfoliating treatments with the btSonic™ facial cleansing system. This professional grade sonic silicone facial cleansing brush features the latest in handheld sonic cleansing technology and is super light and agile, water resistant and battery operated for portable use anytime and anywhere. Equipped with dynamic cleansing bristles, an anti-microbial silicone head and sonic motor, the bt-Sonic™ effectively removes impurity build up that would otherwise remain on the skin during a traditional cleanse. This advanced cleansing method leaves the skin more deeply purified and primed for enhanced product penetration and better treatment results. It features: ! Antimicrobial and antibacterial BT Azul Silicone head with silver ion technology ! Dynamic triangular cleansing head enables access to hard to reach areas ! Delivers a deep, comprehensive full face clean in just two minutes ! Sonic motor stimulated Azul Silicone cleansing bristles ! Water resistant, lightweight, compact and agile ! Powered by 2 AAA batteries bt-Sonic™ is also an ideal retail product for home use.

For more information about becoming a stockist of the btSonic™ call The Global Beauty Group 1300 006 607.

Dermatonics® Beauty Elixir

REMINERALIST DAILY MOISTURETM Protecting the skin from modern day pollution We live in an increasingly dirty world. Studies now confirm the link between pollution and its negative impact on the skin's overall health and ageing. Skin-ageing is further compromised by extensive free radical damage triggered by atmospheric stressors such as ozone, cigarette smoke, exhaust fumed, UV and extreme weather. Remineralist is a new product launched by Bioelements that is more than a moisturiser. This new oceanic formula replenishes the skin's depleted minerals (copper, iron, manganese, selenium and zinc) that help protect and defend against stressors, to achieve the elemental equilibrium of young skin. It's powerful protection defends against the daily forces that cause ageing. Remineralist’s new generation formula is pollutionneutralising is a lightweight hydrating lotion for modern day ageing skin. It increased the skin's moisture by up to 70% in just 15 minutes due to the high percentage of hyaluronic acid, while oceanic mineral (red algae) help detoxify the skin.

Another winning innovative product from Dermatonics is their amazing B e a u t y E l i x i r. One of the most advanced agedefying, wrinkler e f i n i n g , c o l l a g e n boosting formulas available. It is infused with medicinal plant extracts from the Amazon, Australia and Flores Island to help promote cellular repair mechanisms. It’s a superior scientifically supported antioxidant-rich elixir to quench free radicals and support a youthful looking skin. Beauty Elixir is also scientifically proven to assist in boosting collagen matrix and skin elasticity, while protecting cellular components to help you look younger. Stimulating cell-rejuvenation extract from Mulateiro (Calycophyllumspruceanum is an organic active ingredient exclusive to Dermatonics®.

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For further details contact Catherine at Skin BioMedics Institute on 0412 245 645.

For further details contact BIOELEMENTS (Absolute Spa) 1300 262 275.

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starperformer

ALMA REFORM Taking aesthetic face and body treatments to the next level IN RECENT years the beauty and aesthetic industry has seen considerable growth in minimal or non-invasive body shaping and contouring treatments with demand continuing to rise. These non-surgical treatments are attracting clients due to significant outcomes, patient safety, reduced treatment time and recovery time. One of the newest fat-reduction technologies is radiofrequency, which delivers energy to the areas of fat by driving controlled heat deep within the fat cells. The Alma Reform technology utilising UniPolar, CoaxiPolar and Microplasma is becoming today's most effective, longterm solution for the contouring and tightening of the body and face with 10 years clinically proven effectiveness. The Alma Reform offers innovative technologies to successfully meet the challenges of body contouring and age-related facial skin imperfections including: ! Wrinkles ! Fine lines ! Skin tone ! Laxity ! Body contouring, ! Skin tightening ! Cellulite The Reform is part of the of the New "never before seen in Australia" range from Alma Lasers, in partnership with Spectrum Science & Beauty, and has got to be one of the most exciting treatments to enter into the beauty industry. Leveraging off the current globally renowned and clinically proven technology, utilised predominantly by the medical profession, the main focus of this newly-launched in Australia equipment has been all about delivering the same level of quality and technology at a price point that beauty businesses can be confident of producing an impressive return on investment.

ergonomic, lightweight design and integrated thermometer enables easier use. It features an automatic temperature reading (C° or F°), making treatments faster and more efficient.

Micropeel Micro-Perforation for Skin Rejuvenation. This very small applicator provides micro perforation of the skin, using unique Microplasma™ technology. Micro-perforates and gently removes the outer layer of skin and enables the removal of superficial pigmentation, revealing more vital, smoother skin with vibrant glow.

Additionally, Microplasma uses electromagnetic pulses to produce plasma sparks and create micro-channels within the skin. MULTIPLE TECHNOLOGIES - ONE BEAUTIFUL RESULT This effect enables a direct path to the skin tissue to successfully deliver all types of cosmetic formulations for enhanced results. With micro-perforation the surrounding skin remains Patented UniPolar™ Technology Unipolar™ technology uses dielectric heating – focused and undamaged, which aids in rapid healing. powerful heating – a unique process that transmits high The team at Spectrum are invested in their customers' success and radiofrequency energy directly to the targeted tissue via a single provide all-inclusive support with dedicated account managers, electrode. Delivering this energy up to 20mm deep creates a rapid trainers, technicians, marketing partners and payment solutions rotation of water molecules within the skin, causing friction and that clinics can implement and offer to their customers. generating deep, effective and safe dermal heating without discomfort. Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty

Heat is produced deep within the skin's tissue, addressing varying anatomical structures and locations, while targeting fat cells and collagen fibres. The result includes a re-collagen effect, which lifts and tightens the skin as well as reduced fat cell volume, which contours the shape and improves the visibility of cellulite.

1300 766 198 sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.almabeauty.com.au

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Coaxipolar Technology CoaxiPolar is focused on the face. Suitable for facial treatments and using a coaxial electrode which transmits up to 6mm deep. Its

APJ 44

REFORM Are you looking for an affordable clinically proven body and face contouring machine for your clinic? Keep your clients coming back to you by offering patented and clinically proven technologies that work. Body contouring, skin tightening, cellulite, wrinkles, fine lines, skin tone and laxity. Body and face treatments to all areas such as thighs, abdomen, arms, flanks, jaw and dĂŠcolletĂŠ.

Courtesy: Stuart Melnick, M.D., Los Gatos, CA

Courtesy: Roald Varon, M.D., Buenos Aires, Argentina

Courtesy:Dr. Rafael Nunes, Slim Clinique Laser Center, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Phone NOW 1300 766 198 For affordable launch price Alma Lasers, a trusted global leader in the medical aesthetics sector Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty 1300 766 198 sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au

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With cutting edge technology and treatments being developed and implemented on an international scale, career opportunities are limitless - from treatment and product development, medispa & clinic management, to niche areas within the medical sector; a career in Clinical Aesthetics is just the beginning.

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SECOND SKIN the Next Frontier in Anti-Ageing New polymer could also be used to protect dry skin and deliver drugs THE on-going search for anti-ageing solutions for skin rejuvenation has seen the development of innovative products that continue to break new barriers. Now a new "revolutionary" material can restore a skin's youthful appearance without the need for injections. As we get older it is our skin – the body's largest and most visible organ – that mostly betrays our age. As a result, the consumer demand for ways to counteract the appearance of ageing is constantly on the rise. Methods to fight the effects of ageing focus either on changing the skin's appearance, or restoring its mechanical functions, but not both. Scientists now believe they have come up with a new material that solves the two problems at the same time.

and mechanical functions but also improved the skin function of patients with severely dry skin. The “second skin” technology is applied by rubbing on an invisible cream that contains the polymer. A second cream containing a catalyst then causes the skin to temporarily tighten, while resisting washing and rubbing. Such properties mean it could find future applications in both cosmetics and therapeutics to treat a variety of skin diseases. “This skin-conforming platform brings with it transport properties that have significant promise to treat underlying conditions,” said Rox Anderson, co-founder of Olivo. “For eczema or sun protection as examples, this second skin platform can then serve as a reservoir for control-release

The visual impact after applying XPL to the under-eye area. Olivo Labs A “revolutionary” skin-conforming polymer called XPL, developed by researchers at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Harvard, has the ability to replicate the mechanical properties of youthful skin while reducing the appearance of wrinkles and under-eye bagging. The new material is described in a paper published recently in Nature Materials, following more than five years of research aimed at replicating healthy skin. “Developing a second skin that is invisible, comfortable and effective in holding in water and potentially other materials presents many different challenges, which we are now able to address,” said Robert Langer, Olivo co-founder and lead author of the study. A series of small proof-of-concept human studies showed that treatment with the material not only reduced wrinkles

transdermal drug delivery or SPF ingredients, a possibility we are currently pursuing in our lab,” Anderson said. “Second skin” polymer could also be used to protect dry skin and deliver drugs with further developments and this would allow us to treat several dermatological skin conditions and dermatitis," said a spokesperson at MIT, Massachusetts General Hospital, Living Proof and Olivo Lab.

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These innovative breakthroughs are providing positive solutions in the field of dermatology and in helping support skin health and the improved appearance of the skin.

Ref: http://news.mit.edu/2016/polymer-temporarily-tightens-skindrug-delivery-0509

APJ 48

Combine your love of beauty and science. A degree in Clinical Aesthetics takes you to the next level of cosmetic and health technology. Elevate your career and earning capacity, with opportunities in cosmetic surgery clinics, medispa & clinic management, and niche areas in the medical sector. Study from anywhere in Australia; full-time or part-time, on-campus or through our A career in Clinical Aesthetics is just the beginningâ&#x20AC;Ś

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TRADEPRACTICES

DECEPTIVE ART Protecting Your Cosmetic Tattoo Work By Katherine McCann k.mccann@apanetwork.com THERE HAVE BEEN a number of recent complaints made to APAN regarding several businesses posting Cosmetic Tattoo images on Social Media promoting them as their own. In fact, they have been stolen from another practitioner.

consumers 24/7 access to businesses appears to have opened up an insatiable thirst for the short term visionary seeking instantaneous approval and a need for immediate success without actually putting in the hard yards.

To discuss the ethical, legal, and regulatory issues on such practices, Katherine McCann is presenting an educational article on the implications of such practices and recommendations on how to address this issue.

As a result, the rising number of unsuspecting Cosmetic Tattoo professionals finding themselves victims of blatant theft is increasing. Their images are being ripped off, rebranded and passed off by perpetrators to lure unsuspecting consumers for their own financial advantage.

Almost everyone has heard the old proverb “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery”, but when a person promises something and delivers a completely different outcome, at what point does his or her sincerity or motive, become questionable or conduct, become actionable? As Cosmetic Tattoo professionals we invest thousands of dollars in education, spend hundreds of hours practising and perfecting our skill sets, not to mention time spent on continued professional development in order to stay on top of the latest innovations, techniques and industry developments. We thrive on producing life changing results and being part of an amazing community. We are lovers of an art form many of us can proudly call our profession.

No stranger to having his images ripped and passed off by others as their own, international trainer and Cosmetic Tattoo professional Will Anthony agrees social media makes it far too easy for artists to steal other artists’ work. “They even go as far as to cut watermarks and signatures off other people's photos,” Will said. “Artists shouldn't take this as a reason to avoid posting their own work; they should be able to post and proudly market themselves without fearing someone else will steal it”. Drawing from experience, Will advises artists to try and manage things from the outset by creating a transparent watermark that can be placed on the picture in a way that can't be cropped out without ruining the work.

Sadly, with the prominence of social media and continual “You just have to realise that the more successful you are, the everyday interconnectivity, this online platform which provides

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more likely your work will be seen and thus more likely to be limited to) civil pecuniary penalties right through to criminal prosecution. stolen, and in many cases it’s difficult to know,” he said. This is a very real issue and the fallout directly impacts GOT A GRIEVEANCE – WHAT NOW? consumers, CT professionals and businesses alike. Unfortunately, due to the nature and the complexity of many issues within the Cosmetic Tattooing industry, it can quickly This problem is not insolated to Australia nor showing any sign of become overwhelming when trying to navigate the best way slowing down. So in addition to water-marking and trying to keep forward in terms of achieving a successful outcome. on top of what is posted online, what else can we do about it and how can we protect ourselves? The fact that it is still a newly-emerging industry in terms of regulations makes things a bit trickier as there tends to be grey “Farewell Trade Practices Act 1974 – Welcome areas and multiple elements for consideration when looking at a complaint. Competition and Consumer Act 2010”. Regulation in an ever-changing and preemptive environment is always tricky as the application or alignment of law together with individual circumstances can often be complex and until clear precedents are established, resolutions may be slow and open to costly interpretation via litigation. So we need to remain vigilant.

As a business, if you feel you have suffered loss or damage as a result of a competitor breaching the ACL, you also have a right to take action. However, in order to be successful you do need to understand how to frame your grievance in an un-emotive way and ensure it goes to the right authorities.

There are no existing laws that specifically enforce for the regulation of conducting business via social media. However, this means any individual or business involved in any commercial activity within Australia, whether online or via bricks and mortar, are therefore bound by the legislative provisions of the Australian Consumer Law’s ACL Competition and Consumer Act 2010 (CCA), previously the Trade Practices Act 1974.

Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) Chief Executive Tina Viney suggests individuals or businesses that feel they have been impacted to approach APAN with their concerns as they hold relevant regulatory and statutory knowledge and can assist in the direction of the most cost effective and appropriate pathway for resolution.

A spokesman for the ACCC said that while the department does not take on every complaint, they do use a process for determining which matters to take action on and tend to give enforcement priority to those which demonstrate one or more of a range of impacting factors, such including but not limited to:

“We have a clear understanding of what the laws are, how they relate to the industry and are able to identify any breaches, or violations and under whose jurisdiction they may fall”.

“The key to being able to successfully resolved a concern is being The Australian Competition and Consumer Commission (ACCC) able to constructively break them down into their individual is the national regulatory body responsible for the ensuring components and direct each specific breach to the most appropriate department for resolution,” Ms Viney said. compliance within the consumer and business trading markets.

“Because prosecution by the ACCC is discretionary, in many cases, representatives simply end up directing individuals towards independent legal representation, in many cases, this ! Conduct that is of significant public interest or concern ! Conduct that results in a substantial consumer (including unfortunately becomes a very expensive option and often not a small business) detriment, is unconscionable conduct, viable one.” particularly involving large national companies or traders, or “In the case of Cosmetic Tattooing, the ACCC is much more likely ! Conduct that demonstrates a blatant disregard for the law. to respond if the complaint comes from an industry body rather The spokesman also said that it’s essential individuals and than an individual, this is because they get so many complaints business owners understand these provisions and what they look that are of a commercial nature not because of any regulatory like in a practical sense especially when implemented during the violation”, she said. everyday running of their businesses. As a professional organisation, APAN is committed to raising and From a CT perspective, it is also important to note that when maintaining industry standards and has a fundamental transacting online, even if you do not intend to mislead or deceive responsibility to provide a voice for its practising professionals. anyone through your social media dealings, you may still find yourself in breach if anything is unclear or ambiguous, even if no If you or your business has been impacted through deceptive, or misleading conduct, it is critical to make sure we stand strong and one suffered any loss or damage as a result of your conduct. collectively work together to stamp out this kind of behaviour in Just as you must adhere to the ACL, so too must your competitors. order to limit consumer detriment, protect the dedication of CT professionals, and future-proof only the highest standards within In addition to the ACCC, there are also a number of other State the Cosmetic Tattooing Industry. and Territory consumer protection agencies and commissions that can also take legal action against an individual or business for Recently, APAN approached the ACCC on behalf of certain contravention of the CCA. members and lodged a formal complaint about this practice. Penalties and enforcement for non-compliance or a suspected The ACCC has issued us with a reference number to investigate breach vary significantly and depending on the nature and non-compliance by businesses to the Trade Practices Act. circumstances surrounding it. Outcomes include (but are not If you are a victim of such misconduct and would like help

please feel free to contact APAN on Ph: 07 5593 0360.

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maletrends CHARMING with a sparkling smile Stephen Handisides wears many hats â&#x20AC;&#x201C; international model, TV presenter and adviser on the latest surgical and non surgical procedures and the truth behind them. Stephen is already educating the UK in all matters related to cosmetic surgery, health, wellbeing and fitness. He is no stranger to television as he hosts his own TV show, busting beauty myths and hosting a popular Live TV show called Talk Living on the Sky network. In Australia, Stephen is known as the host of the MyFace My Body Aesthetics Awards, which he

International Aesthetics Trends for the MODERN MALE An interview with Stephen Handisides launched in Sydney in November 2015, and again this year on November 27. The ever-growing My Face My Body Aesthetics Awards is expanding its global reach, this year launching its inaugural USA awards in Beverly Hills. We caught up with Stephen to help expose some of the global trends, particularly in the less known developments in the male grooming market. We trust you will identify this growing market and the opportunities it brings to the professional aesthetics market.

APJ Q1: From your experience, what are the key drivers that influenced male grooming trends that have emerged over the past five years and how would you define them? I believe that the boom in male grooming has been strongly influenced by celebrities, and in particular sports personalities like footy players. They have been quite open about such issues as hair transplants, hair removal and other procedures. However, we can't underestimate the influence of women. As they gain more knowledge about skincare and grooming options they have been encouraging their partners to also take advantage of their benefits. Advances in social media have also enabled men to access more information from websites and do their own independent research. As they

became more familiar with new advances, so the possibility of reaching out for their share of products and services also grow. Currently, many successful businesses indicate that 30% of their services are accessed by male clients. In terms of their marketing, the most successful approach is to have a designated grooming/aesthetics section on their website dedicated exclusively to the male client. The key is to keep it simple and easy to understand. For example, promote 3-4 products as a package that can do everything â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cleanser, moisturiser, eye cream, sun protection and shaving cream.

APJ Q2: In your opinion what is the most effective educational tools to inform men on product and procedural options? What is the best way to communicate with men? A well designed website can be one of the most effective tools that will allow a guy to look at stuff in their own time. Men like to do their own research. Men's magazines are also effective tools such as men's health magazines TQ Magazine, men's grooming bloggers etc. Men don't share such information as much as women do so it is important to market directly to them. If you design a brochure for example that promotes products and services, design one exclusively for men. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to keep it separate from women's services.

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APJ Q3: What factors are influencing men to pursue Statistics indicate that eyelift surgery is on top of the list, as is rhinoplasty. Fillers not so much. However, skin peels are quite improving their appearance I would have to say that for the 35+ male it is definitely workplace competitiveness. They want to continue to look young to retain their competitive advantage in their profession. Also today divorce being as common as it is men, often want a second chance. Midlife crisis, death in the family, issues such as these, can make a man pay greater attention to his appearance and decide to invest more seriously in improving their grooming and taking greater care of themselves. However, the 20-30 is the biggest growth market. They are the most fanatical about their appearance. They are the most likely to invest in self-tanning, eyebrow grooming and looking after their skin. For businesses, it is important to know that this next generation will drive the growth with treatment demands doubling. They don't have any of the taboos as with past generations in the area of grooming. They are comfortable with taking care of their body, hair and skin and will do whatever it takes to achieve the look they want. In the next five to 10 years salons and clinics should prepare for this boom.

popular. It pays to educate your male clients on the options available to them. As you gain their trust you will see a very loyal client emerging.

APJ Q7: Is it true that men are becoming more comfortable to visit a spa or salon for a treatment, or are they predominantly on-line buyers and prefer medical practitioners to skin therapists? We are seeing a real shift in males accessing clinics that are dedicated to their needs for skin treatments to hair services and laser treatments, waxing and spray tanning. As this market sector is identified we will see more brands dedicated to male confidence and grooming centres that will cater for a one-stop shop for men. We are already seeing this in England.

APJ Q8: What emerging future trends do you envisage over the next few year? I believe that the big growth will happen in body reshaping

services, cool sculpturing, laser hair removal, hair transplants for balding men. While this is still an expensive process I believe as the trend for a full head of hair will become popular again we will see the prices of these treatments coming down. We will also see stem-cell stimulating procedures offer solutions for these I believe that globally we will see men being a lot more conditions. As research delivers reliable and scientifically sound comfortable in accessing their own unique products and seeking options, we will definitely see a boom in these services. also procedures. They will not be apologetic about shaping their eyebrows or accessing beard oils, skin and eyecare products, or APJ Q10: If a salon or clinic wishes to grow their market even grooming and appearance enhancing procedures such as fillers and muscle relaxants. In terms of demographics,I believe sector by appealing to the male client, what would you that in Korea and the US males are more comfortable with the a advise them to put in place? softer look, whereas Australian men, not so much. Aussie men Clinics need to creatively design a designated separate space for are still more into ruggedness and physicality. However that is their male clients where they can feel comfortable, utilising changing and I believe that within the next five to 10 years we will colours and textures that are more masculine. Develop packages with strong male emotive themes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cool male essentials, mansee cosmetic treatments and the use of injecables for males double. cave packages, skin peels and treatments, as well as functional APJ Q5: How important are "green products" for men, or and easy to understand skincare packages. Men are not interested in individual products, they prefer a complete package and a is that a predominant female issue? simple routine they can follow. It is well-worth for clinics to give I don't believe that the male client will take as much time in serious consideration to this market sector and capitalise on the looking at ingredients as women do. They tend to go more on an growing male grooming market. However, don't just focus on the expert's recommendation. Once you have won a male client over Baby Boomer, remember, you can expect the biggest growth and they trust you, they can become your most loyal client. opportunities in the younger 20-30 age group. Indeed, the future APJ Q6: From your experience, what is the most popular for the male market will only continue to grow and the smart operators will prepare and benefit from this market sector.

APJ Q4: Is the world becoming a global community and are you finding that male trends are universal now, or are there still different demographic dictates that differentiate their preferences?

male cosmetic procedure?

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Why Refresher Courses add to your Skills? “There is no saturation point in education” Thomas J. Watson, IBM founder

WOULD you agree there always exists some knowledge that you need to get refreshed, within your area of expertise? I am sure you would.

WE OFFER TRAINING IN

safety, quality, processes and procedures. Now, we will see why you need to refresh knowledge of your existing employees and when refresher training has to be delivered to them.

Protocols and techniques to greater success in your practice. Prerequisite – HLTIN402B Maintain infection control standards in office practice settings, Certificate IV or Diploma in Beauty Therapy. Or a strong health background. On successful completion, you will receive a Statement of Attendance. * Non-accredited.

CHEMICAL PEELS – Comprehensive training in a variety of AHAs and advanced peels* Most often, refresher training is delivered in the areas of compliance,

Our industry is constantly evolving and changing leading to a need for up-skilling to improve treatment outcomes and support business growth. We often encounter with time the loss of our skills. There are various reasons for their degradation. These could be because of lack of regular use or that new techniques and technologies are replacing old methods. Whatever the reasons may be, the needs for refresher training has to be identified and addressed to ensure that the skills are updated and remain current.

Let's see how refresher training is important in the workplace:

! Improve on existing skills ! Bring you up-to-date with new technology ! Gain the best treatment outcomes from you client ! Gain the best value from your staff ! Bridge the knowledge gap between GenYs and boomers ! Increase your revenue WHEN SHOULD YOU UP-SKILL? Periodic refreshments in training would be a good idea, but most often refresher training can be beneficial even before the specified period. Generally, it is delivered in cycles once in every three months or six months. Usually this period is decided based upon the kind of job, the skills and the critical safety factors required to do the job. But how can you identify when your existing employees are in need of refresher training?

Here are some signs to help you get to know the need to deliver refresher training to your employees.

! Repeatedly failing to complete the assigned tasks on/in time ! Poor response to training given ! Poor treatment results ! Lack of interest in their work ! Frequent accidents or safety mishaps ! Finding it difficult to take up or adapt to new concepts Refresher training will assist your staff to boost self-confidence and morale. It is therefore a valuable pursuit to devote sufficient time to refresh your employees in current skills, increase their competencies and ultimately increases the organisation's reputation. Adding new skills to your offering can also provide your business with new areas of growth. Beauty Therapy Training Australia is a Registered Training Organisation located on the beautiful Gold Coast at Kirra Beach specialising in short courses as well as advanced post graduate courses.

SKIN NEEDLING – This is a two-day intensive training program* Skin needling, also known as collagen induction therapy. Prerequisite – HLTIN402B Maintain infection control standards in office practice settings, Certificate IV or Diploma in Beauty Therapy. On successful completion, you will receive a Statement of Attendance. * Non-accredited.

NON-SURGICAL FACELIFTING AND BODY SHAPING* (cavitation, ultrasound, radio frequency) Duration: 3-day practical training Non-surgical facelifting and body shaping is considered to be a natural alternative to liposuction. Prerequisite – Certificate IV or Diploma in Beauty Therapy. Or strong health related background. On successful completion, you will receive a Statement of Attendance. * Non-accredited.

INTENSE PULSED LIGHT - IPL + REFRESHER COURSE Duration: 3-day practical training Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), includes many wavelengths of light which can be filtered to acquire the wavelength needed to reach the desired chromophore target (melanin, water, haemoglobin, porphyrin). IPL can target multiple skin conditions including vascular disorders, pigmented lesions, acne, hair removal and photo damaged skin. Due to technological advances, IPL's clinical outcomes are becoming increasingly comparable to cosmetic laser systems. Prerequisite – Certificate IV or Diploma in Beauty Therapy. Or strong health back ground

OTHER COURSES INCLUDE

! Light Emitting Diodes – LED + Refresher Courses ! SHBBSKS005 – Provide Microdermabrasion Treatments – Crystal and Diamond 100

For Dates and more Information Please contact: BTTA - BEAUTY THERAPY TRAINING AUSTRALIA Ph: (07) 5599 5568 Location: Face Magic MediSpa & Beauty Therapy Training Australia 7/1 Douglas Street Kirra QLD 4225 www.beautytherapytraining.com.au

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APAN Perth AESTHETIC CONFERENCE

Wrap-up PERTH greeted us with a beautiful sunny day as APAN presented its Aesthetics Conference program on Sunday, October 23, at the well-appointed Crown Convention Centre. The program started with Dermatologist Dr Philip Singh who delivered valuable information on symptomatic assessment in determining skin disorders of endocrine origin that may require dermatological referral. He also discussed emerging products â&#x20AC;&#x201C; micronised benzoyl peroxide, retinoids and salicylic acid â&#x20AC;&#x201C; that are proving effective with acne and well as compounded formulas and antibiotics to address more acute conditions. 100

Within their practices, dermal and aesthetic practitioners often encounter acute and chronic skin conditions and while many conditions can be effectively addressed, in other instances they may encounter challenges that require a referral to a dermatologist. Knowing the advances that are happening within the field of dermatology will allow for a better collaboration between healthcare and aesthetic practitioners that will ultimately benefit their clients and patients and help build trust and loyalty. This lecture provided an understanding

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of new developments in the field of dermatology and also addressed various skin disorders such as rosacea, acne, eczema, lupus, psoriasis, seborrhoeic dermatitis and scar therapy. Dr Singh also addressed diet and biological based agents, as well as LED and light-based technologies and are proving effect. Tina Viney covered two key areas - new global consumer trends, how they will impact the future of our practices and ways to overcome these challenges through appropriate client education and a more focused approached to ingredient formulations, addressing strength of active ingredients, delivery systems, formula standardisation and the important role of the use of advanced technologies and provide a superior treatment outcome. Tina also addressed regulatory frameworks within Australia and why it is time that the industry worked collaboratively with industry bodies such as APAN in establishing its own Registration Board that will more clearly define, defend and protect our rights to practice new and more advanced procedures that would fall within the scope of health practices. Following Tina's presentation Christine Comans gave a powerful testimony on how regulations completely destroyed her well-established tanning company leading to a loss of several millions of dollars. She challenged the industry to unite their voice and work together inviting participation and involvement in the APAN Chapter for WA. Sue Papadoulis followed with a powerful presentation on how businesses can benefit by utilising media publicity to present their story in

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order to expand their reach and grow their consumer engagement. As an expert journalist and PR professional Sue is skilled in sharing valuable strategies to succeed in gaining valuable media exposure for free. Following lunch Terry Everitt discussed the Age and Rage - how Glycation End Products effect ageing of the skin. He addressed the chemistry, the impact of diet and what proven actives offer hope for this condition. Delivering his lecture with a touch of humour Terry was engaging and help unpack an otherwise fairly heavy subject in a way that made it well received. Renowned interior designer Agatha Ozhylovski from Adelaide was the next speaker. She presented some compelling information revealing how neuroscience is identifying the impact of certain colours, textures, lighting and shapes and how these elements can change the brain and alter perceptions and influence decisions. She explained how utilising these scientific principles can be used to enhance consumer spending, engagement, trust and loyalty in a salon or clinic. Dr Zac Turner ended the conference program discussing new advances in peptides and how they can enhance wellbeing, weightloss, energy levels, pain management and skin improvement. He also sharing some amazing images of body transformation through the latest cosmetic enhancing procedures. The event was also supported by several supply companies who exhibited their equipment and products, establishing valuable business contacts and building

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relationships, while showcasing some of their high quality products. Following an amazing buffet lunch delegates also had the opportunity to be in the draw for a beautiful lime Waterford Crystal Vase and matching candle holders valued at $430. The lucky winner of the draw was Lynne Roylands from Mandurah Anti-Ageing Clinic. We were delighted to also welcome members from Darwin, NT, NSW, South Australia as well as Queensland and thank them for taking of their valuable time to travel to Perth and support this amazing educational event. Their presence helped to create a dynamic, fun professional-development environment and another memorable industry event. APAN thanks the speakers who gave of their valuable time to visit Perth and present their knowledge, industry s u p p l y c o m p a n i e s , l o y a l A PA N members - both local and from other States, delegates and business owners who help make this event a success. We hope to see you again at the 2017 Conference events. Please put the following dates in your diary:

APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCES 2017 ADELAIDE MAY 28TH BRISBANE JULY 30 MELBOURNE SEPT 24 APAN Phone: 07 5593 0360, Email: info@apanetwork.com, www.apanetwork.com

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PERTH ROYAL YACHT CLUB APAN Think Pink fundraising breakfast

THERE is never a better way to enjoy a breakfast than at the beautiful Perth Royal Yacht Club on a Saturday morning, listening to the gentle sounds of Blake Skinner playing mesmerising jazz, while overlooking the sunlight dancing on the waves. The event was held on Saturday October 22nd and the occasion was the APAN Think Pink Skin and Wellness Month fundraising breakfast in support of breast cancer, which was beautifully put together by none other than Christine Comans. Our MC Katherine McCann, together with Christine and Tina welcomed guests on arrival.

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The function was supported by several companies who offered amazing prizes. Keynote speaker was local plastic and reconstructive surgeon Ian Timms from Sculpting Surgery in Rokeby Road, Subiaco. Mr Timms presented alarming statistics stating that 16,000 women will be diagnosed with breast cancer this year in Australia with 3000 losing their battle. He shared some of the treatment advances and also spoke about new breast implant techniques and other strategies, such as cosmetic tattooing, to help improve the quality of life of sufferers. Christine Comans shared a little about her cosmetic tattoo work in helping women through their journey. John Manus, National Sales Manager for Statpharma, a major sponsor, spoke about new innovative product developments that support faster wound healing and scar prevention. Thank you also to Luca Mora and Julius Borbely, from Vogue Image Group, who attended and were a major sponsor and supporter of the purpose of this event. Each guest was presented with a wonderful gift bag. Other gifts were drawn at the end of the day.

Our thanks go to the following sponsors: VOGUE IMAGE GROUP: Product hamper valued at $650 STRATPHARMA: $50 product in each delegates gift bag plus $165 product JANE IREDALE: Gift pack valued at $375 ELYSIAN BEAUTY THERAPY: Voucher valued at $185 SUBIACO 7-DAY CHEMIST: Gift pack valued at $135 THE LITTLE PANTRY, SUBIACO: Gift Voucher valued at $50.

Guests also had the opportunity to purchase $100 tickets to a national raffle for the following prizes presented by the Australasian College of Health and Wellness: * $3000 flight voucher to Paris/London/NewYork or elsewhere. * 18 karat white gold diamond cluster earrings valued at $2,500 * 18 karat rose, white and yellow gold ring set in diamonds valued at $2,000. There was a limit of 75 tickets per item. The day ended with much fun and generous support from all who attended with 31 tickets sold.

Our thanks to all who supported and contributed to the success of this event. Thank you for the various sponsors for their valuable contribution of beautiful prizes, Christine Comans for her amazing work, Katherine McCann for accepting to be our wonderful MC, our great speakers and to Blake Skinner for entertaining us. As a community of practice it is appropriate to support causes that reach out to community needs such as the amazing and important work by the Think Pink Foundation in helping breast cancer sufferers through their Living Centres.

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APAN hosts another successful Cosmetic Tattoo Workshop

Advanced Winged Eyeliner UNDER its professional umbrella, APAN represents several specialist modalities, including cosmetic tattooing. Following their successful conference program in Perth, in October, APAN hosted an Advanced Winged Eyeliner Cosmetic Tattoo Education event at the well-appointed Queen Elizabeth II Medical Centre in Nedlands, Perth, conducted by Caroline Broes. A big thank you to Christine Comans for her amazing energy and enthusiasm in contributing to the success of this event. Christineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passion is infectious and we recognise and are grateful for her efforts and hard work. This was a post-graduate educational program attended by qualified and experienced cosmetic tattooists who came from various parts of Western Australia including regional and country WA, as well as from the metropolitan areas. Other eager practitioners travelled from NSW and Darwin to learn from one of Australia's master practitioners. While eyebrows are currently the big trend, achieving a successful eyeliner technique is considered the next big thing with the Winged Eyeliner Technique being the most in demand. . Caroline is recognised both in Australian and internationally for her amazing techniques and extensive experience in cosmetic tattooing as well as other procedures such as non-laser tattoo removal. She is considered as the master for her eyebrow and eyeliner techniques for which she highly regarded.

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In 2010 Caroline was the recipient of the Roslyn Norris Award for Best Advanced Cosmetic Tattoo Therapist in Australia.

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Mark Viney welcomed delegates and spoke about APAN's vision in supporting the future of the profession through the APAN National Standards Program and the CTARP Registration, which will support future regulatory measures. Mark stressed the importance of recognised qualification and on-going professional development that will define and protect practitioners well into the future. Caroline shared her unique protocols and techniques to achieve an amazing winged eyeliner. Delegates received supporting notes to ensure they are guided in principles of mastering this technique within their own practice. After lunch, the event wrapped up with wonderful networking and forging of professional friendships among the delegates. Sharing of knowledge is so valuable and key to the advancement, recognition and reputation of a profession and we were delighted that Caroline was able to share her brilliant technique with colleagues who can now achieve a new level of excellence in this procedure.

In 2017 APAN plans to schedule other workshops with Caroline Broes in other States. If you are interested in participating, please indicate your expression of interest by sending an email to info@apanetwork.com. Give us your FULL NAME, PHONE NUMBER, STATE and what course you would be interested in attending â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Winged Eyeliner or Non-laser Tattoo Removal. You can also phone and speak to us on 07 5593 0360.

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The Highest Professional Standards now has a New Name As the Aesthetics industry continues to advance so has the need to identify its leading practitioners through a new Standards Recognition Registration Classification.

APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERÂŽ (ARAP) Is the new industry Registration. Applicants will be assessed on their qualifications, knowledge, skills and standards. Industry professionals are invited to apply for Registration. There are five Registration Classifications:

] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Clinician ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Associate ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Master Educator ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Educator

AESTHET IC

APAN

PRACTITIO N

REGISTE R

Who can apply:

ARAP

Dermal Clinicians Dermal Therapists Cosmetic Nurses Skin Therapists Aesthetic Practitioners Educators A Quality Assurance Officer will assess each application on their qualifications and merits and determine eligibility.

APPLY TODAY For further information visit www.apanetwork.com and complete an ARAP Online Application Form. If you require further details please phone APAN 07 5593 0360.

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The power of collaboration – A successful fund raising event In Interview with Claire Mason FOCUSED and highly committed to excellence in all that she undertakes Claire Mason is the owner of Integrity Paramedical Skin Practitioners – a successful clinic in Upper Mount Gravatt in southside of Brisbane. Registering to participate in this year's inaugural initiative APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH, Claire undertook this project with gusto and enthusiasm. While some businesses found it a challenging project, Claire’s commitment and hard work paid off and she raised $3180 in support of the Think Pink Living Centres. When approached to share her journey, Claire was delighted to inspire other businesses to gain from her own experience. Renowned for her caring generosity, she accepted to be interviewed to reveal her strategies and what she learnt by undertaking this new industry venture. "If my experience can benefit others, then I would be thrilled to see businesses benefit from this wonderful cause," Claire said.

APJ Q1: Claire why did you decide to become an APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH ambassador? This is an amazing initiative and as a member of APAN I considered it my professional responsibility to do my part and participate in creating a sense of community for the benefit of this incredible cause. As a rule, I don't support breast cancer research because I believe we do have answers now. However, I have always wanted to support a charity and looking at the Think Pink Foundation I identified a different focus - helping the individuals with breast cancer and their families who need our care. The whole approach of supporting the Living Centre also fitted with our values and I felt an alignment with its purpose, knowing the repercussions that this disease can have on families as a whole. It was good to know that any funds raised would be going directly to support the Living Centre and not to greedy CEOs as with some other charities.

APJ Q2: Tell us a little about your practice and how this involvement fitted in with your values? In our clinic we work a lot with oncology patients restoring skin health and scar revision. As a skin-specific clinic we have always wanted to be involved with a worthwhile charity and when this opportunity came up with APAN's initiative we felt that it was an amazing way to support a great cause that we believed in and to allow

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our industry to put out there a great message to the consumer about who we are and what we stand for. .We also identified the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH was a great way of giving back to our loyal and valued clients. We handpicked approximately 30 clients and as a way of saying "thank you" to them we staged (at our cost) a beautifully presented lunch and created a fun, celebration event showering our guests with our gratitude and with wonderful gifts. We also had numerous gifts that they could purchase to support our fundraising. Giving back is very much part of our values, and this was a wonderful way of doing this, while also supporting a worthwhile cause.

APJ Q3: Share with us some of the marketing strategies to utilise to gain momentum for this project and your business? We engaged a marketing company to help us in some areas. We also approached our skin ambassadors to promote the event on their own social media platforms. These were: ! Amie Jenkinson – who is a well-known fitness expert, model, author and entrepreneur ! Tess Alexander – Miss World Australia ! Naomi Price – 2015 contestant from the Voice We also got some great publicity with publications such as, Indulge Magazine, West End Magazine and The Courier-Mail who all were interesting in promoting our story. As a result, our brand gained great exposure, not just for our services, but also for our charity work that resulted in amazing consumer response from many who appreciated what we were doing. Internally, we sent out newsletters, EDMs and we also did a big Facebook and Instagram campaign. Our hashtag was #IPSPevents. We were also delighted that our skincare companies – DMK and Jane Iredale Makeup supported with gift donations. Additionally, we had an amazing major donation valued at $26,000 from GOA Billboards who provided a one-month digital marketing billboard to one lucky winner. Our sincere thanks to these three companies who gave generously and contributed to the success of the event. This was a well-organised, purposeful event and it came together beautifully. The whole exercise, I have to say was very exhilarating for all concerned.

The lunch was magnificently presented with beautiful candelabras, sequence tablecloth in gold and wonderful flower arrangements. All these extra thoughtful touches gave the event a gracious air that made everyone feel special. And, of course, the guests were presented with beautiful food and wine. Everyone received gifts. We also had raffles with amazing jewellery, a $700 diamond necklace, haircare products woth $600 as well as fashion vouchers. From the voucher sales on the day we raised $3180.

APJ Q4: Where you fearful that you were undertaking something outside of your comfort zone? I don't get scared easily (unless asked to speak publicly). In fact, I actually enjoyed venturing into something new like this. I asked myself, "OK, let's see what we can do?" I enjoyed the challenge to think outside the box. It really was quite exciting. Once we identified our plan and devised a strategy, it was just a matter of executing it through a step-by-step process. My team members, who also contributed with their ideas. They were all delegated tasks. Everyone had a job to do and collectively, it all came together really well. My only fear was as to whether we would be able to raise sufficient funds, but as a first effort I feel we did quite well.

Amie Jenkinson, Claire and Miss World Australia Tess Alexander

involvement is for the betterment and the public profile of our industry as a whole. It also promotes a message that as professionals we are also care-givers with a heart.

APJ Q5: Where they successful? Tell us your experience and outcomes from these initiatives? I believe the event was very successful. We raised $3180 for the charity, had an amazing time and learnt a great deal from this experience and the possibilities it opened up to us. We believe that this is only the beginning of an annual event that we will be committing to. Next year we will do things even better. We also got amazing brand exposure and all 50 who attended our event requested to be booked for next year's event, which we already know will continue to grow in both wonderful new features and exposure. We also gained some excellent high-calibre new clients whom we consider to be A-List clients â&#x20AC;&#x201C; approximately 30 of them so that was an amazing bonus. I have to say that the support of the press was very much appreciated. I believe we received about $20,000 worth of free press. Our publicity included my efforts and a handful of people who collectively did an amazing job in helping promote our brand and also highlight our link to this wonderful cause.

APJ Q6P: As a final word, what would you like to share with colleagues and business owners? As a community of practice and members of an industry body like APAN we need to embrace these opportunities and leverage off them. This project offers a wonderful way that we can show consumers that we also stand for giving back and caring for others and we are doing it in a strategic and purposeful way. This is a powerful, positive message and when presented with conviction, we will gain their respect. APAN set the project up for businesses to leverage off. If we all do our bit we are collectively putting out a positive message that can resinate with many who will appreciate our efforts and position. We can communicate that we are in this industry because we care. It is really quite a powerful way of reflecting our values and engaging consumers' attention, respect and ultimately their trust and engagement with our services.

I encourage everyone to get involved. This is the beginning of something very special. Let's make it bigger and better next year. By applying a few well-thought out strategies and setting a plan to execute them we can make the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS MONTH a national annual event. We can be rewarded knowing that we have come together as an industry to launch a community project, while gaining greater exposure for our businesses and consumer recognition and respect for our services. We can also experience business growth as an added bonus.

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I believe that as professionals we are providing expert and specialised services. There is an exchange of energies â&#x20AC;&#x201C; we provide our services, while the consumer benefits and pays us for these services. This is a fair transaction.

However, we also have a duty of care and an obligation to contribute to valuable community causes. Additionally, this

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productperformers

Tips for Better BUSINESS Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

New prize goes to SKEYNDOR "Scientific Cosmetics" On 20 October, 2016 SKEYNDOR received the Recognition of Innovation prize as part of the Cecot Recognition of Progress in Business framework. This new prize for business development; characterised by a philosophy of constant research and innovation, is spearheaded by the concept of "Scientific Cosmetics".

SKEYNDOR Australia, said: “We are absolutely thrilled with this recognition of SKEYNDOR's on-going commitment to R+D, innovation and cutting-edge ingredients. This award is characterised by a philosophy of constant research and innovation and spearheaded by SKEYNDOR's concept of Scientific Cosmetics.”

SKEYNDOR received the Recognition of Innovation prize in the medium/large company category, as part of the Recognition awards from the Catalonian Business Association – Cecot. The award ceremony took place at the 22nd Nit de l'Empresari (Entrepreneur Night) held in the Auditori de Barcelona.

The company, with headquarters in Terrassa, Spain, employs 92 staff with a special mention for the company's own qualified technical team and its R+D plus Innovation Department that collaborates with many departments of the CSIC (Spanish National Research Council) for the application of new active ingredients, under the concept of "Scientific Cosmetics".

The prize pays tribute to a long history of service to cosmetics defined by innovation, since the founding of SKEYNDOR 50 years ago. Commenting on the honour, Luca Mora, CEO

To view the innovative SKEYNDOR range visit w w w.s keyndoraus tralia.com or ch a t w i t h u s o n facebook.com/skeyndoraustralia.

WHY BUSINESS SHOULD INVEST IN COMMUNITY HEALTH AND WELLBEING

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We all know the importance and benefit of keeping our employees healthy. It's not just about occupational health and safety issues. Smart businesses recognise that fostering a culture of healthy living that includes a good diet, exercise and appropriate rest will contribute to less sick days, higher concentration and greater productivity from their employees. It will also support a healthier mood in the workplace, which will contribute to a positive atmosphere that their clients, or patients will appreciate and seek more frequently through repeat visits. However, a new study suggests that businesses today should consider taking it one step further by investing in keeping their community healthy and supporting their wellbeing. A new alarming study in the US revealed that children today are at risk to live shorter lives than their parents. This sobering assessment is one reason retailer Target is investing $40 million this year to improve the health of communities around the country. Wellness, Target believes, begins in communities â&#x20AC;&#x153;where people live, learn, work and playâ&#x20AC;?. The business case for investing in community health is compelling, especially for businesses that depend on communities for workers and customers. A study funded by the Robert Wood Johnson Foundation shows how the unhealthiness of an industry's workers correlates closely with the unhealthiness of the communities in which those workers and their families reside. Companies that invest in community health have the potential to reduce employee healthcare costs, expand future access to healthier workers, benefit their reputations and engender greater consumer and employee loyalty.

becoming synonymous with the hallmark of a successful business. Consumers are not satisfied with just looking good, they are progressively becoming more inquisitive with the safety of the ingredients used on them, how new technology will impact their health and if the services they are receiving have any risks. It is therefore advisable that the astute business owners also establish policies that address how the company determines product and technology choices that will best support the health, wellbeing and safety of their clients. They then need to establish effective strategies on how they will communicate their decisions to the consumer. Target is breaking through barriers by putting community health and all wellness initiatives at the centre of its Corporate Social Responsibility strategy. The move dovetails with the company's new focus on wellness as a priority business category. As part of this strategy, the retailer is investing $40 million this year in more than 50 non-profit organisations aligning itself with various community groups that reflect the organisation's values. It is important that businesses look at creative ways to communicate their philosophy through corporate alliances. Within the aesthetics industry the APAN/Think Pink Skin and Wellness Month is an example of such an initiative. Salons and clinics that participate are communicating a message that the business is also community focused and supports the care and wellbeing of others within the community. These subtle messages can be very powerful and are quietly picked up and appreciated by the modern-day consumer. Health, safety and wellbeing are now strong elements that contribute to loyalty.

In the aesthetics industry, safe ingredients and wellness is

IS RATE OF PAY THE ONLY CRITERIA FOR A GREAT CAREER? In Australia Fair Work determines the rate of pay one should be paid for the task they are performing and so the rate of pay is often the single deciding factor of a successful employment position. However, a recent study of pay versus performance suggests that the most beneficial factor could be something else the efficient coaching and management skills that will help an employee reach their full potential as well as help the business to succeed. In fact, some academic research indicates that by enhancing employee value managers can potentially add significant value to an organisation. The researched used an example in baseball coaching to demonstrate the example

.In 1993, Lawrence Kahn analysed data from Major League Baseball, drawn from the 1969â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1987 period, to estimate the impact of managerial quality on team and on individual players' performance. Using a team's winning percentage in a given year as the dependent variable, managerial quality, winning percentage in the previous year, and additional controls, he demonstrated that a manager's ability was a very important factor in converting player performance into team victories in baseball.

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But it wasn't just team performance that was enhanced by managerial quality.

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Kahn's additional analysis showed that great coaches/managers help players achieve better individual performance. Furthermore, he documented the impact of newly-hired great coaches, showing that â&#x20AC;&#x153;when a high-quality new manager takes over a team, the average starting player's performance relative to his lifetime statistics (accumulated under other managers) is greater than when a low-quality manager takes over the teamâ&#x20AC;?. Subsequently, these players might be able to monetise their newly acquired levels of performance, either with their team or elsewhere.

WHAT MANAGERS CAN LEARN Kahn's study on the effect of managerial quality on baseball team performance is an example in practice offer valuable lessons to other industries. All things being equal, managerial quality strongly influences a team's performance in baseball as well as football. In fact, Kahn found that changing managers may affect a team positively when a newcomer is superior to his predecessor. In addition to winning, great managers increase the team's revenues over their compensation costs. From a business point of view, this implies that hiring and succession planning processes are very important in leveraging great staff managers. It therefore pays for businesses to invest in hiring and developing great managers.

by managerial quality, matters. This finding implies that a team that keeps on winning does so because the manager influences the team's ability to succeed. In short, a manager can teach a team to win. Kahn argues that the winning habit is learned from the top and communicated down to staff. An average player's performance in a given season relative to his lifetime average improves more for a higher-quality manager than for a lower-quality counterpart. Great managers deploy their players by putting them in situations where they have the highest chance of success. This means that a good manager should position tasks to a staff member that will be best suited to their natural gifting and talents. From there on training, as well as motivations, will allow even an average players to become rising superstars. In achieving, businesses can gain a competitive advantage because they have the potential to attract, leverage and retain talented employees that will achieve the most for their business as well as for the staff's own personal and professional development. This is also the secret to happy staff. From an employee's point of view, being mentored under a good manager can also substantially bring out the best in them and help improve their skills and confidence as professionals, as well as provide them with job satisfaction.

A given year's winning percentage is not affected by the previous year's winning percentage. Only current performance, influenced

HOW OUR BRAIN DETERMINES IF THE PRODUCT IS WORTH THE PRICE Are consumers more likely to buy if they see the price before the â&#x20AC;&#x153;We were interested in whether considering the price first product, or vice versa? A new study scan the brains of shoppers to changed how people thought about the decision process, and find out. whether it changed the way the brain coded the value of a product," says Uma R. Karmarkar, a neuroscientist and assistant Think of the last time you went shopping. By the time you decided professor in the Marketing unit at Harvard Business School, who to buy a product, you knew both what you were buying and how conducted the research. "Because we had neuroscience tools at much it cost. But was your decision affected by whether you saw our disposal, we had the benefit of exploring both those the price or the product first? That's the question at the heart of questions," Karmarkar says. new experimental research that uses neuroscience tools to shed The researchers found that viewing the price first makes light on how our brains make purchasing decisions.

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consumers more likely to focus on whether a product is worth its the participant had seen the price or product first. When the price, and consequently can help induce the purchase of specific product came first, the decision question seemed to be one of “Do I like it? And when the price came first, the question seemed to be kinds of bargain-priced items. Is it worth it?”

THE BRAIN SHOPPING EXPERIMENT In a series of experiments, participants went shopping while lying on their backs inside a functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) machine. The fMRI uses a giant electro-magnet, often three teslas strong, to track the blood flow throughout the brain as test subjects respond to sensory cues. In this case, participants were responding to pictures of products and their prices. In the first experiment, conducted at an imaging centre on the Stanford University campus, participants were given $40 of shopping money before viewing a series of 80 products and their prices on a screen inside the fMRI machine. "This made the shopping experience more real," Karmarkar said. To encourage purchasing, the products were offered at sub-retail prices. Sometimes participants saw the price first and sometimes they saw the product first. But in every case they eventually saw an image of both the product and the price presented together. At that point, they chose whether to purchase the product, indicating yes or no with the push of a button. After exiting the machine, participants filled out a survey to rate how much they had liked each product, on a scale of 1 to 7.

That said, price first didn't have much of an effect on actual purchasing behaviour. Participants bought about the same number of items and reported similar "liking" ratings regardless of whether they had seen a product or price first. The researchers suspected that even if participants were more critical of a product's value in the price primacy condition, the products were equally attractive under both conditions. “The question isn't whether the price makes a product seem better, it's whether a product is worth its price,” Karmarkar said. "Putting the price first just tightens the link between the benefit you get from the price and the benefit you get from the product itself. “If it's an insignificant discount, then you're actually putting yourself at a disadvantage by highlighting the price first, because people are now cognitively scrutinising the price and making sure it's worth it. You can't just try to fool people into thinking it's a great price.” But the research also revealed a notable caveat: After participants indicated whether they wanted to buy a product, they reported exactly how much they would personally be willing to pay for the item, typing a dollar amount into an online form. Surprisingly, the average willingness-to-pay amount was slightly lower in cases where they had viewed the price first. This indicates that if retailers want to take advantage of price primacy, they need to advertise true bargains.

The researchers focused on brain activity at the moment participants saw the product and price presented together. They were most interested in the medial prefrontal cortex (the area in the brain that deals with estimating decision value) and the nucleus accumbens (an area that's been called the pleasure centre, and whose activity is correlated with whether a product is Value is always a safer issue to promote to a consumer. If the viscerally desirable). value of the product or service is appreciated, the price then takes Results showed that the brain activity varied according to whether a secondary role in making a decision to purchase.

MASTER THE ONE-ON-ONE MEETING WITH YOUR STAFF The one-on-one meeting between manager and staff is an invaluable tool for managing, but requires much attention to detail. Here is why it is important and suggestions on how you get the best benefit from it. If you are in charge of your staff's performance whether you are an owner or a manager you would no doubt recognise the value of group training. However, experts also point out that successful businesses also invest in one-on-one meetings if they wish to ensure staff loyalty and productivity.

Here are some recommendations:

! Whether it's an hour a week or 30 minutes once a month, ! ! !

making time for an individual says you give a damn about them as a person. The 1:1 is the only forum where you can have an honest, private, conversation with each other about what's really going on - professionally and personally. This is a routine opportunity for you, as a manager, to assess the parts (your employees) that lead to the productive whole (your team) - which we all know is more powerful than the sum of said parts. A leader who makes time for their team members - especially

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those who are also leaders - is less likely to suffer poor team performance because of ambiguity and mistrust. Each 1:1 is an opportunity to clarify the goals of the organisation, your performance expectations and build a trusting relationship with your employees by getting to know them as people, not just workers. ! Finally, constructive 1:1s throughout the year makes performance reviews a breeze. With routine 1:1s, review

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time can be more about goals and the year ahead instead of constructive feedback from the past. Don't just schedule these important meetings with your direct reports, be thoughtful about how these sessions play out. Below is the guidance I give to new managers on conducting 1:1s.

Set expectations Whether your employee has worked for you for awhile and you're just kicking off 1:1s, or they are a new hire and you're rolling them into the fold, set expectations up front. ! Be clear about behaviour changes. If this is a new process you are putting in place at your company/in your team, be transparent about it. Otherwise people worry something bad is going to happen (getting fired) if you all of sudden start scheduling 1:1s. Announce it at a team meeting/all-hands or send out an email being clear about why these are important to do. ! This meeting is for them as much as it is for you. Be clear that you do this with all employees who work directly for you. No one is being singled out. ! Book a regular cadence of 1:1s. They should not be ad hoc. It's OK to skip one every once and awhile, but having it locked into the calendar is your commitment to being there for your employee. ! Decide the best cadence with them (weekly or every other week; 30 minutes or an hour) and what the format should be.

! Your

office or theirs, a walk,or maybe grabbing coffee. Different formats work for different employees and they can always be changed as you get into a groove. Just don't do after work drinks as that suggests a less serious discussion.

The agenda If a meeting is important enough to have, it should have an agenda. ! Topics in a 1:1 should be about professional growth, personal connection and for giving each other feedback. Do not use the meeting to rehash things from a group meeting or standup unless there are specific things you took offline in that meeting or need to provide/get constructive feedback. ! 24 hours or so before the meeting, email the employee a list of what you'd like to cover. Try to do a split between strategic, tactical and personal items and always ask your employee what they want to cover too. For efficiency, let them know if you need them to bring/read/do something before the meeting. Review a potential change to the product roadmap for next quarter and how that might impact your team. Please bring the latest roadmap with you. In this day and age it pays to have a real, personal communication with your individual staff members. This will allow you to prevent any misunderstandings and ensure that an open, honest and respectful relationship is maintained between you and your staff member.

Sydney Cosmetic Tattoo Master Class

5 Days Master Class Technicians Only (Beginners to Advanced)

15th - 19th of January 2017

PROGRAM: 15th January HFS - Hair Follicle Simulation by Moshe Alul 16th January AREOLA by Moshe Alul 17th January EYEBROWS HAIRSTROKE by Tunde Mehn 18th January EYE SHADOW by Tunde Mehn 19th January 3D LIPS by Tunde Mehn

! ! ! ! !

Venue: Liverpool Catholic Club Function Room Address: 424 Hoxton Park Road, Liverpool West NSW 2170

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Master class on latex only Materials provided Demonstration by Moshe Alul and Tunde Mehn on a live model Coffee break and lunch are provided Certificates provided for each Master class issued by NPM International and Tunde Mehn PMU Art School.

For Information contact npmaustralia@gmail.com or phone 01411 426 055. Limited places available.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

Propionibacterium acnes, which causes acne.

HOW LACK OF OXYGEN MAKES BACTERIA CAUSE ACNE AND HOW TO STOP IT It's like Jekyll and Hyde. One moment bacteria on the skin are harmless, the next they are causing a full-on spotty break out. Researchers have discovered exactly why this happen a breakthrough that could yield new acne treatments, possibly in two years. Richard Gallo, of the University of California, San Diego, and his colleagues have discovered that a harmless bacterium that lives on the surface of the skin can turn nasty, triggering inflammation and zits, when it finds itself trapped in airless, oily conditions like those found in hair follicles.

CASCADE OF CHEMICALS The airless environment causes the bacterium, Propionibacterium acnes, to turn sebum – an oily matter found in the skin – into fatty acids that activate inflammation in nearby skin cells. By analysing mixtures of the bacteria alongside human skin and hair cells, Gallo's team found that the fatty acids deactivate enzymes called histone deacetylases that normally act as a brake on inflammation. Once that brake is off,

cascades of chemicals are produced by skin cells, aggravating the type of inflammation that causes acne. “For the first time it shows how fatty acids derived from P. acnes act on skin cells to induce inflammation,” says Holger Brüggemann, of Aarhus University in Denmark, who in 2004 unravelled the entire genome of the skin bacterium. Unfortunately, scrubbing your face isn't the answer because the bacteria clump together to form structures called biofilms, which help anchor them to the skin. Potential therapies are further complicated by the fact that certain strains of P. acnes are actually beneficial to skin health. Nevertheless, Gallo is confident that his team's breakthrough could lead to new treatments. “We can either inhibit these fatty acids, or block their impact on the skin,” says Gallo. “We're working on how to do this.”

HORMONE SURGE Gallo says the discovery could also help to explain why some people seem more prone than others to developing acne. It

could be that some people's hair follicles are especially suffocating. Alternatively, some people might inherit genes that make their skin cells more vulnerable to inflammation from the fatty acids produced by P. acnes, or they may have strains of the bacteria on their skin that make excessive amounts of the fatty acids. “I think all of these aspects probably play a role,” he says. Brüggemann says that teenagers are most vulnerable to outbreaks because surges in sex hormones during puberty drive the production of extra sebum in the skin. This extra sebum enables any P. acnes in the hair follicles to produce more of the fatty acids that aggravate inflammation, leading to more spots. Gallo wants to do further work on skin samples to corroborate the findings. “If we get lucky, it could lead to new medications in two to five years,” he says. Journal reference: Science Immunology, DOI:10.1126/sciimmunol.aah4609

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MAPPING THE SKIN IN TIME AND SPACE The skin is the largest organ in mammals and it serves to protect the body from outside influences, such as physical damage, radiation, fluid loss or extreme temperatures.

To fulfil this function, a plethora of cell types with diverse functions and molecular identities has to work in concert. However, it is still unclear how many different cell populations can actually be found in the epidermis and the hair follicles and what exactly makes one cell different from another. In a new study from Karolinska Institutet, researchers provide an in-depth analysis revealing 25 epidermal cell populations that, surprisingly, can be explained almost fully by just two biological parameters – the differentiation status of the cell and the niche in which the cell is located. The study, a collaboration between the labs of Maria Kasper and Sten Linnarsson, used single-cell RNAsequencing to analyse the gene expression of more than a thousand individual cells from adult mouse skin. With this method they were able to link each cell to a specific molecular identity and to cluster them accordingly. Analysing the gene expression signatures associated with each of these cell populations revealed putative

functional roles for each population and made it possible to search for shared patterns of gene expression between different populations. These new insights into the organisation of the epidermis have profound influence on the understanding of how the skin functions.

"Overall, we were able to find 25 cell populations with distinct molecular identities and functional roles in the epidermis and the hair follicle, many of which have not been described before. What was most intriguing was that despite this high number of different populations and identities, most variety of the cells could be explained by only two parameters – time and space," says the study's first author Simon Joost. The time parameter would correspond to the differentiation status of the cells – whether they are young and dividing cells in the basal layer, or functionally mature cells in the outer layers. Space would correspond to the niche that the cell is located in – whether they are located in the interfollicular epidermis (the part of the skin that is not hair follicle) where they form the skin barrier, or whether they are located in one of the many compartments of the hair follicle where they grow and maintain the hair.

The study leader Maria Kasper explains: "A vast number of tissue stem cell populations with different gene expression profiles and diverse localisations have been described in the epidermis in recent years. However, our data shows that, while the expression profiles of the different populations indeed vary according to their locations, the gene expression linked to their stem cell identity is surprisingly similar across these locations". These findings challenge previous paradigms of skin maintenance.

Understanding the identity and interplay of different cell populations in the healthy skin will enable researchers to better understand the specific changes occurring in skin stem cells. For example when they contribute to wound healing or when they undergo transformation to give rise to a tumour. Thus, this cell map of healthy skin will also benefit future studies on damaged as well as diseased skin. Ref: Simon Joost et al. Single-Cell Transcriptomics Reveals that Differentiation and Spatial Signatures Shape Epidermal and Hair Follicle Heterogeneity, Cell Systems (2016). DOI

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THE ROLE OF NUEROINFLAMMATION IN ROSACEA Rosacea is one of the most common chronic inflammatory skin diseases, and although it is frequently diagnosed, its pathophysiology is still poorly understood. Continued research has shed some light on the pathophysiology of rosacea and has brought neuroinflammation and neurogenic inflammation to the forefront as an important factor in the development of the disease. The hope is that therapies possibly targeting these pathways could prove effective, offering a beacon of hope for this often challenging to treat skin disease. Recognised as a complex disease, rosacea can be characterised by a mosaic of symptoms including facial erythema (sometimes burning and painful) and telangiectasias, papules and pustules, as well as facial oedema, typically occurring first on the central face around the nose, cheeks, forehead, and chin. According to the presentation of symptoms, rosacea can be further divided into four subgroups, namely, erythematotelangiectatic rosacea (erythema, flushing, telangiectasias), papulopustular rosacea (erythema, edema, acne-like lesions), phymatous rosacea (rhinophymatous changes), and ocular rosacea (red, itchy, irritated eyes, swollen eyelids). Rosacea is also associated with several

different factors that can quickly trigger and exacerbate symptoms including spicy foods, alcohol, particularly red wine, exercising, stress, as well as exposure to ultraviolet light. These trigger factors can contribute to the development of facial erythema and flushing, sometimes perceived as a painful and burning sensation, all of which can lead to a significantly diminished quality of life in the affected individual. “These changes in the face cannot only be disfiguring, but they can have a significant psychological impact on t h e a ff e c t e d p a t i e n t , f u r t h e r underscoring the psychosocial impact of the disease and begging the need for more effective therapeutic solutions for this patient population,” said Professor Martin Steinhoff, MD, PhD, MSc, FRCPI, professorial chair of dermatology and director UCD Charles Institute of Dermatology, University College Dublin (UCD) in Ireland.

NEURGENIC INFLAMMATION Most of the progress in respect to elucidating the pathophysiology of rosacea on a molecular basis has begun over the last decade or so. In this time, Dr. Steinhoff and colleagues have honed in on neurogenic inflammation as one of the pivotal factors involved in the development of rosacea and as such, perhaps the key to more effective

treatment solutions for the skin disease. Rosacea typically starts with flushing and erythema, Dr. Steinhoff says, and these symptoms are closely associated with neurogenic inflammation. If one applies the capsaicin that is contained in chili peppers, these patients will also get the erythema, flushing, as well as a stinging or pain sensation in the face, very similar to those patients who suffer from rosacea exhibiting these symptoms. “This analogy reminds us very much of the same situation, so you can then drive the hypothesis that also there is a kind of burning and flushing, which is very rare in many other inflammatory diseases such as atopic dermatitis or psoriasis, that can stay for hours or days. Basically, this is explained by the activation of sensory nerves that then release neuropeptides into the environment, which, in turn, activate blood vessels and immune cells that then drive an inflammatory process, defined as neurogenic inflammation,” Dr. Steinhoff explains. He recently spoke at the 46th annual meeting of the European Society for Dermatological Research in Munich.

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NERVE CELL COMMUNICATION A c c o r d i n g t o D r. S t e i n h o f f , understanding the mechanism of how the nerve cells communicate with the

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new cells and with the vascular system and knowing which kinds of mediators and receptors are responsible can help lead to treatment solutions targeting specific mediators or receptors. In 2011, Dr. Steinhoff and his team published the transcriptome analysis of the rosacea subtypes and found that several neuro-mediators and neuroreceptors are upregulated in rosacea, opening up the possibility for a targeted therapy. For instance, neuro-peptide receptors for Calcitonin Gene-Related Peptide (CGRP), Substance P, or Transient Receptor Potential (TRP) ion channels, can all be activated by the typical trigger factors of rosacea such as exposure to sunlight, spicy foods and temperature changes. According to Dr. Steinhoff, this gives a good indication that probably TRP channels are involved in the neurogenic inflammation, which further leads to the development of rosacea symptoms.

Research efforts are in part aimed at trying to block one of these TRP receptors, which could hopefully lead to an effective targeted therapy. The possibility of a more effective therapy for rosacea would be very welcome for rosacea sufferers. According to Dr. Steinhoff, facial erythema remains one of the biggest issues among rosacea sufferers, while the papulopustular aspect of the disease can be largely controlled pharmacologically with different agents such as topical ivermectin or metronidazole, or with systemic antiinflammatory antibiotics. Most patients will come back to their physician and are happy that the papulopustular is under control, but are often dissatisfied with the erythematous aspect of their disease, which can have a far-reaching impact on their psychosocial health and wellbeing. As such, therapies that can better address the neurogenic

inflammation and subsequent erythema would be much desired. “It is really worthwhile and very promising to perform translational research, trying to understand the mechanisms and pathophysiology from the beginning. This information must then be translated and brought into the clinic to establish proof of principle and concept with human studies. Moreover, it is crucial to have good academic industry partnerships where all the fields of industry and academia come together because although both have limited capacities, both have their skill-sets that in these partnerships can often help towards the road for success which ultimately can help the patient with improved therapies,” Dr. Steinhoff says. Reference: Steinhoff M, et al. Clinical, cellular and molecular aspects in the pathophysiology of rosacea. J Investig Dermatol Symp Proc. 2011 Dec;15(1):211. doi: 10.1038/jidsymp.2011.7.

EXPERTS SAY THAT DRY SHAMPOO COULD CAUSE BALDING Balding can result from the improper use of dry shampoo, which many women love to use. It is supposed to be sprayed on the hair and not directly on the scalp. Doctors say that when it is overused, it can cause problems. It's the styling secret that women swear by, swapping out your daily hair wash for dry shampoo. Dry shampoo is designed to soak up oil in between washes. Your hair looks fresher without the fuss. There is now evidence

that frequent dry shampoo users are experiencing bald patches and many dermatologists are blaming dry shampoo.

shampoo can plug the hair follicle and trap bacteria. “That bacteria causes inflammation in the hair follicle which leads to pimples or cysts,” Ralston said.

Experts say that dry shampoo can build up on the scalp. Stephanie Johnson, a licensed hair stylist, says the natural oils that need to escape your scalp can be trapped by dry shampoo if you use it too much.

Doctors say the other potential issue with dry shampoo is contact dermatitis. Some contain fragrances and preservatives that can cause an allergic reaction on the scalp.

Dermatologist James Ralston says dry

Ref: Warfield Weekly Journal

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ANOTHER REASON TO PUT DOWN YOUR MOBILE PHONE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU ARE OUTSIDE We all know the dangers of unprotected sun exposure, and you probably don't have to be reminded about the importance of sunscreen when getting direct sun. But, according to dermatologist Dr Leslie Baumann, many of her patients don't realise the effects that intermittent and indirect sun exposure can have on the health and appearance of their skin. "These short periods of time add up without even realising it," says Dr Baumann, which is why it's imperative to use an antioxidant along with sunscreen each and every morning, regardless of your plans for the day. In addition to damage caused by direct and indirect sun, UV reflectance poses yet another serious threat to our skin, and most people are unaware of it. UV exposure is increased when rays are

reflected off water, sand and even concrete (runners, take note). Any shiny surface can reflect UV rays. A new study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology identifies yet another source of UV reflectance: Your mobile phone. Imagine that you were holding a mirror instead of your phone. It would be very easy to see if sunlight was bouncing off and being redirected at your face. Your phone's screen does the same thing as a mirror. It increases your sun exposure, similar to those reflectors many women and men used to use while sunbathing many years ago. To prove this, researchers set up a variety of devices on a music stand in the midday sun and affixed a UV sensor to a mannequin head in front of it. The data collected showed that phone, iPad

and laptop screens all increase levels of UV exposure. The study reinforces how important it is to use antioxidants and a physical sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to protect your skin from the sun. Between direct, indirect and reflected UV rays, the potential for sun damage (and resulting skin cancer and premature ageing) is literally around every corner! Dr Leslie Baumann is a board-certified dermatologist, New York Times bestselling author and CEO of Baumann Cosmetic & Research Institute in Miami. Ref:http://www.miamiherald.com/li ving/health-fitness/skindeep/article111694017.html#storylin k=cpy

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memberprofile

Trailblazing Cosmetic Tattooing to greater heights SYDNEY Permanent Make-up is a highly-in-demand cosmetic tattoo practice located within the Cosmetic Professionals clinic in the suburb of Five Dock, owner and director Rita Porreca (pictured) is one of Australia's leading practitioners and teacher of Cosmetic Tattooing and is considered a pioneer of the practice in Australia. Her involvement in the industry spans over 30 years and she brings a great deal of knowledge and experience to the profession. As part of our Member Profile feature, we present to you Rita and her amazing professional journey.

APJ Q1: RITA, SHARE WITH US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR since. While I continued to also perform other procedures for PROFESSIONAL JOURNEY AND HOW YOU CAME TO several years, over the past 25 years I have focused exclusively on performing and perfecting cosmetic tattoo procedures through SPECIALISE IN COSMETIC TATTOOING?

ongoing education as well as evolving my own techniques. Today, I am a passionate advocate of this profession and believe it can offer so much to both clients as well as patients with medical conditions. Over the years I have performed thousands of eyebrows, eyeliner and lip procedures for both women and men. My focus is always about customised results that will best suit I then came across an ad about training in Cosmetic Tattooing in individual needs. I also work extensively with cosmetic surgeons the US, so I decided to pursue this path and I haven't looked back on post-operative procedures including nipple areola after mastectomy, skin needling, as well as corrective camouflage, which I also love. It is a wonderful feeling to transform lives and help clients and patients regain self-esteem. This is so rewarding. I originally started in this industry as a beauty therapist, having trained with Madame Korner back in 1983. On graduating I established my own salon. I loved everything about this profession, but I was always hungry for more and was seeking ways to expand the services I was offering.

APJ Q2: WHAT IS YOUR PROFESSIONAL AND BUSINESS PHILOSOPHY? I constantly strive for excellence and my philosophy is be the best you can be. To achieve this you cannot afford to remain static in your learning. Every industry has new advances and the cosmetic tattoo industry is no different. For this reason, I am highly committed to my own technical and professional advancement â&#x20AC;&#x201C; constantly updating my techniques, learning new methods and always attending seminars to improve my skills and knowledge, not just in cosmetic tattooing but also in the industry.

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APJ Q3: HOW HAS COSMETIC TATTOOING CHANGED OVER THE DECADES? Over the years the practice of cosmetic tattooing has advanced considerably since I first embarked on this journey. New techniques that are more refined now allow us to perfect our end results and deliver a more customised outcome offering clients of all ages amazing improvement that enhance self esteem. In terms of product development, new advances in colour pigments are providing us with amazing choices allowing us to achieve more precise, customised results that are youthful and natural-looking, which is what today's clients are looking for.

APJ Q5: WHAT CHANGES DO YOU SUPPORT FOR THE INDUSTRY AND WHY ARE THEY IMPORTANT?

We also now have a better understanding of how skin tones are influenced and the role of facial symmetry in helping us achieve a new level of professional result that is both beautiful and at the same time natural. This is more appealing to today's consumers who are seeking to refresh and improve their appearance in a natural and undetectable way.

I strongly believe that cosmetic tattooing is a respected profession, but to remain so it requires that training should only be delivered to a certain recognised standard through industry and government accredited course.

However, mastering these new protocols and techniques can only be achieved through a commitment to ongoing education. Practitioners who want to excel and be recognised as experts need to constantly update their skills and knowledge to keep up with current advances in this profession.

I also believe that it is equally important that all technicians belong to a professional industry body such as APAN or Cosmetic Tattoo Australia so that they can stay up-to-date with relevant industry issues, regulations they need to abide by, as well stay current in their knowledge and techniques through seminars, conferences and training programs in cosmetic tattooing.

APJ Q4: WHY DO YOU BELIEVE THAT QUALIFICATIONS APJ Q6: IN YOUR OPINION HOW ARE CLIENT ARE NOW SO IMPORTANT FOR THE FUTURE OF EXPECTATIONS CHANGING OVER THE PAST 2-3 COSMETIC TATTOOING AS A PROFESSION? YEARS? As with every profession, knowledge increases and the requirements for higher standards necessitates that education is delivered with the appropriate updates in new information. To maintain the integrity of our profession, educational standards must be able to be measured and this can only be achieved through recognised, objective educational standards that offer practitioners thorough knowledge in understanding the various skin tones and how this will influence their cosmetic tattoo procedures, facial symmetry guidelines, new updated techniques and accurate colour matching and correction. Additionally, state governments now require appropriate qualifications in infection control, as well as skin penetration licences that are compulsory in various States. These skills are important to ensure there is no cross-contamination during a treatment. This profession also carries risks as we are penetrating into the dermis. As professionals it is important that our education is thorough in minimising these risks for both the benefit of our clients and the reputation of our profession.

Today, with social media so prevalent, clients are more knowledgeable about the different techniques that are on offer. Most will research the options of procedures and techniques for treatments they are seeking to have and don't necessarily just rely on the technician for their education before arriving for an appointment. Cosmetic tattooing is a very specialised practice as well as a competitive one so technicians need to stay up-to-date in their training and constantly refining their techniques if they are to

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build a strong reputation in this profession.

APJ Q7: WHAT EXCITES YOU THE MOST ABOUT YOUR WORK AND WHAT GIVES YOU THE BEST JOB SATISFACTION? This is such an amazing profession that has the potential to transform lives. The best feeling is when I receive a client testimonial expressing how happy they are with their treatment results. This is so rewarding. Furthermore, also helping people with medical conditions such as alopecia gives me great satisfaction, as it can be life changing for a lot of my clients.

APJ Q8: WHAT IS YOUR VISION FOR THE FUTURE? My passion is also in training so I would like the industry to tighten-up and the level of training to become more thorough and professional. I would like to see the elimination of these two-day training courses that do not have the capacity to deliver the appropriate knowledge and skills needed for this profession. Cosmetic tattooing is a specialised artistic skill. We perform procedures on people's faces and bodies by impregnating the skin to the dermis. There are many risks and variable considerations from one individual to another. You cannot gain all this knowledge in a two-day course in cosmetic tattooing. I also believe that cosmetic tattooing should be available as post-graduate training for nurses and dermal therapists who already have knowledge on skin and infection control.

APJ Q9: WHY DID YOU JOIN APAN AS A MEMBER AND WHAT SUPPORT DO YOU BELIEVE THEY OFFER YOU AND THE INDUSTRY? I joined APAN as I recognised and appreciated the industry standards that they are advocating and their efforts in the area of training and regulations. I wanted to be a part of such initiatives that aim to tighten-up our industry. I believe by joining associations like APAN and being part of a strong professional voice we can move towards a more regulated industry and bring an end to people who are trained incorrectly and contributing to the disrepute of this profession.

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Rita Porreca can be contacted at Sydney Permanent Makeup Centre Ph: 02 9569 7799 info@spmuc.com.au

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COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP)

Supportive of industry concerns and unrest, APAN has taken the baton and has established a new industry classification to offer Cosmetic Tattooists strong recognition and provide an effective path for a more secure future. APAN launched COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) last year and it is revolutionising the recognition and integrity of Cosmetic Tattooists and is paving the way for the profession to be identified by best practice in line with Australian Standards. Establishing CTARP as a registered industry classification was industrydriven and came after many qualified and experienced cosmetic tattooists raised serious concerns over the deteriorating training standards in Cosmetic Tattoo that currently exists, in particular with training being offered to noncosmetic tattooists to do just eyebrows.

To join CTARP the following prerequisite will be required:

! Must be a current financial member of APAN ! Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing Registration requirements:

Adhere to the APAN CODE OF ETHICS (Cosmetic Tattooing) and the relevant Australian Regulations as set out by State and Federal jurisdictions. A signed copy of this must be returned to the APAN Office.(Please note: If members also hold an American association affiliation they must understand that if there is any conflict in their Code of Ethics the Australian Code and regulatory requirements will overrule). Cost of CTARP Registration: Adhere to the CTARP Code of Conduct. CTARP Registration $110

Registration Benefits:

! Special Membership Certificate ! Special Membership Card ! Industry Code of Ethics (Cosmetic Tattooing) ! CTARP Code of Conduct ! Transparent CTARP logo for business window or door ! Included on APAN Website as preferred practitioners ! Other benefits from time-to-time Registration renewal requirements:

! Maintain currency of APAN Membership ! Evidence of participation in post-graduate training within the previous 24 months ! Evidence of attending at least one APAN conference per year.

If you require further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com The online application to join CTARP is found at www.apanetwork.com Applicants applying to become a Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) must provide evidence of currency of APAN Membership and their Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing. So if you are a Cosmetic Tattooist and are committed to high standards of educational excellence and best practice, consider joining APAN and become a member of CTARP and be recognised among Australia's leading Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioners.

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POSEIDON SPA

The Jewel of Crete by Tina Viney

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PERHAPS even more so now with the world becoming progressively more turbulent, most of us in our exacting and conscious existence try to search for more than just materialistic luxury. What is more and more appealing and to which we are often magnetically drawn is to escape where we can be nurtured, soothed and edified through a peaceful and wholesome environment. We value and seek a unique combination of respected privacy and endless time and space where our senses can experience tranquillity and our energy can be revived. I was privileged to discover such a destination recently at Poseidon, an amazing spa at Saint Nicolas Bay on the Greek island of Crete where I was visiting for a family reunion. I have always wanted to visit Crete as this amazing island offers such rich history, not to mention that it is also renowned as one of the world's most health-promoting destinations. In fact, a study of seven countries confirmed that among all cohorts from all the countries that participated in the study, Cretans showed the lowest mortality from all causes. More than other Mediterranean diets, the Cretan diet was rich in legumes, fruit and edible fats that were mostly olive oil, which is famous world-wide for its purity and therapeutic constituents. Cretan diet contained much less meat, but supplied moderate amounts of fish and lots of fresh fruit and vegetables as well has high quality whole grains. My choice to feature Poseidon Spa came highly recommended and it attracted me, not just because of its idyllic location, but also because I wanted to uncover what influenced its concept and what contributed to its overwhelming popularity and success. The person responsible for establishing Poseidon's philosophy was its General Manager Costas Zarbalas whom I had the privilege to interview and uncover the secrets of its success. But before I divulge these secrets let me share with you a little about the magic of Crete and in particular St Nicolas â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or Aghios Nikolaos as it is pronounced in Greek.

HISTORY AND ARCHAEOLOGY Crete is the largest and most populous of the Greek islands and is strategically located right in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea south of mainland Greece. It is ranked the 88th largest island in the world and the fifth-largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, after Sicily, Sardinia, Cyprus and Cosica. The capital and the largest city in Crete is Heraklion and in 2011 the region had a population of 623,065. However, over summer when it is flooded with tourists its population often doubles. Crete forms a significant part of the economy and cultural heritage of Greece, while retaining its own local cultural traits (such as its own poetry and music). In terms of its history it was once the centre of the Minoan civilisation dating back to 2700â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1420 BC, which is regarded as the earliest recorded civilisation in Europe.

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Agios Nikolaos, where Poseidon Spa is located, is a coastal town, east of Heraklion. The town was settled in the late Bronze Age by Dorian occupants of Lato and boast a very rich archaeological history. Nearby there's an archaeological site of ancient Priniatikos Pyrgos. It appears to have been first settled in the final Neolithic, circa 3000 BC.

Activity on the site continued throughout the Minoan Bronze

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Age and the Classical Greek and Roman periods, spanning a total Turkish rule came to an end. The Cretan State was created with of up to 4,000 years. Since 2007, Priniatikos Pyrgos has been the King of Greece as the island's High Commissioner. In 1913, undergoing excavation by an international team under the Crete was finally joined officially with Greece. auspices of the Irish Institute of Hellenic Studies at Athens. With such a colourful and culturally diverse history, visiting the Mythology has it that it was in a cave in Crete where the goddess local museum was an amazing experience as ancient frescos, Rhea hid the newborn Zeus. In that cave, Zeus was brought up by statues, pillars and jewellery richly depicted the diverse ethnic the nymphs, while the demonical Kouretes would strike their influences of the various eras and occupations that dominated the shields loudly so that Cronus may not hear the crying of the baby island over several centuries. Zeus and eat it. It was also in Crete that Zeus, disguised as a bull, took Europa so that they may enjoy their love together. Their MODERN AGIOS NIKOLAOS union produced a son, Minos, who ruled Crete and turned it into a Coming up to the present day, Agios Nikolaos is probably best mighty island empire of the seas. In Minoan times, even Attica known as a tourist town that serves as a hub to the 20 or so small would pay a tribute tax to Crete, until Theseus, the Athenian villages and farms that make up that part of Lassithi. Tourist prince, killed the Minotaur. The truth behind the myth is the attractions include the small lagoon Lake Voulismeni, small existence of a mighty and wealthy kingdom and of a civilisation beaches in the town, the tiny island Agioi Pantes, the that is considered the most ancient one on the European continent. archaeological museum, the local flora exhibition “Iris” and In 1450 BC and again in 1400 BC the Minoan civilisation was numerous fairs. These bays offer visitors the opportunity to swim successively devastated possibly due to the eruption of the in their crystal clear, bright aqua-coloured waters that splash volcano of Thera, or modern day Santorini that eventually led to gently against the rocky shores, yet provide quiet waves to relax its decline. It is believed that the volcanic eruption in Santorini and enjoy a swim – a very different experience to our oceans in created such a tidal wave that it almost totally destroyed the Australia where the waves can be quite aggressive. Minoan civilisation. In the wake of the devastation the Dorians arrived to settle on the island. They were later followed by the Just a short ferry ride away from Agios Nikolaos is the island of Romans. After the Roman rule, Crete becomes a province of Spinalonga, an old Venetian fortress turned ex-leper colony at the Byzantium until the arrival of the Arabs who occupied the island beginning of the 20th century. for an entire century (824-961 AD). During the Arab domination, At night the coastal strips are buzzing with activity as tourist flock Crete became the lair of pirates who were based out of Chandakas, the region to experience the amazingly fresh local food and or present day Heraklion. delicacies. The highly lit streets meander through the town Next, Crete fell under Byzantine rule again until the arrival of the inviting visitors to enjoy a leisurely stroll through the attractive Venetians who occupied the island for approximately five shopping hub where you can negotiate a special price for some of centuries leaving their stamp on the island's culture. After the fall the world's most delicate jewellery, fine cotton or linen clothing, of Chandakas in 1669, the Turkish occupation began, marked by interesting local arts and crafts as well as amazing natural produce ferocious and bloody uprisings. At the end of the 19th century that include a plethora of locally-made skincare, manufactured

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with what else, but organic olive oil. There is no sign of the financial crisis as the region is buzzing with activity.

VISITING POSEIDON SPA Nestled under gently swaying branches of vibrant pink bougainvilleas, Poseidon Spa is located at the St Nicolas Bay Hotel where 107 beautiful appointed accommodation rooms and suites are available for guests. The spa is at the back of the hotel on the ground floor overlooking the bay. Guests are welcomed to a beautiful haven where a variety of services from palates, yoga as well as hydrotherapy treatments are available to them to support their relaxation and wellbeing. Courteous reception staff greet guests and assist them by orientating them to the amenities, while also explaining the various treatment options for face and body available to them. All staff are qualified aestheticians, multi-linguists and highly trained in the various treatment ranges on offer, which are delivered with quality products such as Elemis from England, Cinq Mondes and Algoane from France as well a very special local product utilising local charup honey to deliver the Poseidon Aromacellutox, which is one of their signature brand. The spa offers a superb and comprehensive range of treatments utilising advanced anti-ageing formulations, plus scientific phytotherapy and aroma therapeutic spa skin and body treatments.

new techniques to meet with our standards and embrace a personal commitment to on-going learning. 3. Language skills: As we cater for the local and international tourist market we look for proficiency in languages. As much as possible our staff need to be bilingual â&#x20AC;&#x201C; English, French, German and Russian are preferred languages that we look for, not just Greek.

4. Flexibility: When interviewing we also look at their previous My first appointment was with Eleni Prasinaki, the lovely Spa work experience to evaluate their ability to quickly adapt to a Manager. Eleni's friendly manner and courtesy immediately team environment. We also assess if they have the capability to made me feel welcomed. take initiative and solve problems with their clients as they arise. Additionally, we look for good listening skills, compassion and Her credentials were impressive â&#x20AC;&#x201C; qualifications in sports science sensitivity to the needs of others and the ability to confidently and physical education, a Degree in Physiotherapy, a Masters in articulate solutions and treatment options to our guests. They Physical Exercise for special conditions such as spinal injuries, need to have conversional skills for effective communication as pregnancy and injury recovery. Add to that a Diploma in Tourism this is paramount in ensuring the right recommendation and and Business Management and you have a highly qualified advice are given to our guests that will best meet their needs. person at the helm of the staff management. Eleni took me through on a tour of the premises, from the gym, wet areas to the various spa and treatment rooms and finally to the famous Blue Room ,which overlooks the amazing views of the bay and the sea, allowing guests to experience a treatment of their choice in an open air environment, while also enjoying the tranquilising ocean breeze.

5. Identify their strengths: We recognise that each individual has their own strengths. By identifying these we are able to ensure that we position each client with the therapist that will best suit their personality and needs.

APJ Q2: Being located on an island, how do they ensure that staff are kept up to date in their professional development and training? APJ Q1: Speaking with Eleni I was very keen first up to find We put our staff through a thorough training program over a full out about their criteria for staff selection. Here we have a month. During that time they are taught our culture, policies and island in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea. How easy is procedures, treatment protocols and they are also trained in our it to access staff? Despite these limitations her selection retail and professional products. The skincare companies we are criteria was quite specific. Here is her response: associated with also send their representatives twice a year to Eleni: 1. Loyalty: I first look at the character of the individual I deliver training and bring us up-to-date with new techniques. We am interviewing. This is because it is very important that staff are committed to the vision and culture of our establishment. They must also be passionate about ensuring the level of service we want each guest to experience. To achieve this it is important that they are completely loyal to the company and committed to the standard of care that we expect to be delivered to our guests each and every time. Without the right attitude they will not be able to achieve this.

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2. Education: We ensure that each staff member has a recognised education in aesthetics or in the services they will be delivering. We also look for practical experience in their work and that they are also open and willing to diversify and learn

Tina with Eleni Prasinaki,

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also conduct business training for our staff. Through the training period we evaluate the potential candidate's suitability before accepting them into our employ. There is also a yearly exhibition that is conducted in Athens called Beauty, to which we also send representatives. This event runs over 3-4 days and offers seminars as well as provides major supply companies the opportunity to meet up with businesses and promote their products.

APJ Q3: In the area of treatments, what options do you provide your guests. Do you offer specific cultural treatments that are unique to you and Crete? We offer a wide selection of treatments that draw from many cultures. We have many oriental treatments – Ayurvedic, Balinese and Thai – that offer an exotic ritual experience such as our Sensorial Journey into the Thousand and One Nights. This treatment is an oriental massage that is carried out with warm oil according to a traditional technique from North Africa with deep and enveloping soothing strokes in order to improve body and mind relaxation. Additionally, the combination of soothing and refreshing floral mists, and the Huile Somptueuse de l'Orient - a – blend of olive oil, Argan oil and sesame oil with a true oriental fragrance brings the guest into an unforgettable sensorial experience into the world of Thousand and One Nights. Another popular treatment is our Poseidon Aromacellutox treatment. This is a detoxifying body treatment with "drainage" moves eliminating toxins from the body, fluid retention as well as beneficial against cellulite. The essential oils from specific herbal extracts are combined with a relaxing therapeutic way inducing a complete full body massage at the problematic areas. However, our most popular treatment is the Greek Honey Massage with Charup Honey. The sweet sensation of warm honey extracted from the charup bean is applied on the skin as the therapist, with relaxing techniques, brings with every touch calmness and tranquillity to the body. This treatment is ideal for

osteoporosis, constipation problems and respiratory problems because of the special properties of the charup when combined with lymphatic drainage. Charup honey has very high calcium content and when combined with orange and other citrus extracts, Cretan pine, rosemary, as well as Dittany herbs and chocolate, it offers detoxifying benefits with a delicious aromatic experience. On the other hand, our Elemis treatments offer excellent antiageing benefits for the skin. They provide effective skin rejuvenation benefits delivered through the delicate extracts of the finest oils of Absolute Rose, Mimosa, Chamomile, Jasmin and Neroli. The Elemis philosophy is based on the purest form of quality ingredients. They do not use parabens, silicones and harmful preservatives. These are wonderful natural products with a shelf-life of 3-9 months because of their limited preservatives.

APJ Q4: What is your point of difference that keeps clients coming back? From the moment a guest enters our premises they are greeted as a very special guest. Our philosophy is to make them feel at ease and to ensure that we meet all their needs. Our signature approach is one of warm hospitality and our therapists are skilled in communicating this to our guests. Each client is made to feel very special and they are essured that their experience with us will be memorable and very rewarding. We follow intentional protocols to ensure this with each and every guest. 100

In summarising, my interview with Eleni revealed to me that the focal point of their training was for their staff to master a high standard of client care delivered with sequential and precise intention in such a way that it appears effortless, ensuring a superior experience of quality service, relaxation and treatment outcome. This is how you would define excellence.

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MEETING WITH THE MASTERMIND Following my interview with Eleni, my second appointment was with Costas Zarbalas â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the charming silver-haired General Manager who mastermined both the hotel and spa concept. With him I spent in excess of 90 minutes as he shared with me in detail his qualifications, experiences and his amazing journey in the world of a European hotelier and what led him to further enhance the client experience by introducing world-class spa amenities. Quietly spoken, yet confident Zarbalas (pictured above), exudes wisdom and confidence in his topic. It was quite evident that he breathes and lives his convictions and this was also confirmed by his passion for what he has established and his commitment to the ongoing growth and development of his vision. His background includes graduating from several Hotel management training programs both in Greece and Switzerland where he was trained in the finest skills and art in hotel management and administration, as well as the whole gamut of services, philosophy and culture that is needed to be conceptualised and established in the competitive world of world-class hotel establishments. His training then took him to several locations where he gained comprehensive experience in every facet of hotel operations from the food and beverage to top level management. This gave him a thorough understanding of both how a culture is birthed, communicated to staff and implemented to maximise client experience as well as other operational and management protocols and strategies. From there, he gained additional experience and skills working at some of the finest hotels in Europe and this journey took him to Switzerland, France, Italy and the UK, where he was appointed general manager at hotels such as the Hilton.

and acquire additional hotels on behalf of the company. In 1985 he was approached by a Swiss bank and a German billionaire with headquarters in Geneva to undertake the position of general manager of a hotel and raise the service and the standards to a much higher level. The project was highly successful and in 1990 the owner decided to sell. It was then that Zarbalas decided to set his sights on Crete. In collaboration with an architect George Alexandrakis, they planned to develop a very unique hotel in St Nicolas Bay. George, Alexandrakis designed the whole establishment and designated the managerial responsibilities of the business to Zarbalas.

THE VISION The vision was to build something uniquely different that went beyond luxury to capture all the elements of Crete, with a special emphasis on homely hospitality and the warmth that would allow guest to experience another way of life. The focus would be on environmental issues and the personalised care of the individual guest ensuring that each person was made to feel so comfortable and cared for as if they were coming home and in that way making the client experience a uniquely memorable one. "I understand the values and what is important to the calibre of client that we wish to attract," Zarbalas said. "We want our guest to know that when visiting Crete it is not just about tanning and tasting food. We want them to also experience the human elements of hospitality. Each guests is greeted by name and introduced to the unique culture of our establishment that has a strong focus on warm hospitality. "We handpick all our staff and orientate them and train them to our culture and the level of personalised service that we require for each and every guest. Each guest must be greeted and treated with heart-felt sincerity and made to feel that nothing is too much for them.

Despite these amazing experiences, Zarbalas's heart was very much about establishing something unique in Greece. Tourism had a very strong future in Greece and his dream was to culminate his knowledge and establish something unique within one of the Greek islands. 100

Returning to Greek in 1971 he explored his options. In those days hotel projects were funded by banks and partnered with very wealthy businessmen who were seeking qualified and skilled managers to administer their business ventures. As a result, Zarbalas was given the task to head some of these projects

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The famous Blue Room â&#x20AC;&#x153;Luxury hotels are all about quality bathrooms and linen and technical support, and while we ensure that all these elements are in place, we go beyond that. We heavily invest in environmental issues, human values, based on courtesy and warm hospitality. We get to know all our clients by name and create for them a feeling that they are among friends who care for them. As a result 36% of our guests are repeat business. "The client experience is the backbone of any hotel. To achieve this all staff members must love what they do and be passionately committed to our philosophy ensuring that each guest has no need of anything and is happy.

human touch and a safe place to reconnect with what will help us stay healthy, happy and productive. Beauty will fade without wellness and so the quest for combining both will only continue to grow. In a world of high technology the importance of the human experience, as it becomes more scarce, is now greatly valued. I left with the strong realisation that services that can also provide genuine human care as part of the client experience will continue to grow in demand regardless as to where we are located.

FOR

FURTHER INFORMATION ON POSEIDON SPA visit http://www.stnicolasbay.gr/the-spa

"To expand on that experience, nine years ago we launched Poseidon Spa. Starting with just one room, the spa facilities now offer world-class services from fitness training to a variety of wellness and relaxation treatments as well as anti-ageing facial and skin therapy. "Our vision for the future is to continue to add new services. We currently have on the drawing board a plan to introduce a traditional food menu that utilises fresh, local produce that consists of high-quality, healthy, home-style food to support the wellbeing of our clients." Poseidon Hotel and Spa also provides conference facilities for profession groups seeking a unique and incredible destination to experience a culturally rich environment, while expanding their knowledge.

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IN CONCLUSION

Reviewing the whole Poseidon operations, I would have to say that the most important take-home message was this: Human nature is the same, regardless of our ethnic backgrounds, or country of origin. We are all seeking meaningful connections, healthy indulgences, caring

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A5M delivers another successful conference program:

10th ANNUAL A5M ANTI-AGEING & AESTHETIC MEDICINE CONFERENCE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Healthy Ageing and Personalised Medicine: Improving Patient Outcomes THIS year's 10th Annual A5M Anti-Ageing and Aesthetics Medicine Conference was once again held at the Sofitel in Melbourne on the 67 August. The event featured an array of world-leading experts who presented the very latest research findings in the area of Healthy Ageing and Personalised Medicine for Improving Patient Outcomes, which was the theme of the conference. The program also featured an extensive aesthetics division including such topics as Uses of PRP and Stem Cells in Aesthetic Medicine (presented by Jeannie Devereaux), Clinical evaluation of Herbal Preparation (Nathan Rose), Beauty from Within Optimising Health and Aesthetics (Dr Subudra

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Thavy), Integrative and Nutritional Medicine, an extension of your aesthetic medicine (Stephen Young), New Peptide Technology and their role in cosmeceuticals (Terri Vinson), and Glycation â&#x20AC;&#x201C; more than gluing you together (Terry Everitt). In terms of internal medicine the focus was very much on healthy ageing and looking at evidencebased science and how practitioners can not just address disease, but, more importantly, work towards identifying the symptoms that contribute to low immunity and potential risks for the purpose of implementing preventative clinical solutions. Strategies that were presented included recommended lifestyle changes, diet and nutrition, exercise, as well as new diagnostic approaches that examined genetics, hormones and environmental influences in greater details to conventional methods.

The program featured concurrent streams including presentations by local and international key opinion leaders and practitioners who have played a significant role in shaping the direction and pioneering integrative, preventative, anti-ageing and aesthetic medicine. This year's event incorporated best practice, evidence-based analysis of accepted markers for disease, implementation of clinical protocols as well as testing and assessing methodologies for early intervention practices. Among the highlights of the conference were the contribution of keynote speakers such as Dr David Katz, international authority and world leader on nutrition, weight management, chronic disease prevention, lifestyle medicine and integrative medicine. Dr Katz eloquently presented the very latest research findings in diets comparing the various

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theories in detail and identifying both their strengths and shortfalls. The result of the research pointed to the Mediterranean diet, which is heavy of fresh fruits and vegetables, beans, whole grains and lean protein as offering the best health benefits for heart health, diabetes prevention and weight-management. It was considered superior, not just for its results, but also more environmentally sustainable, compared for example to the Paleo diet which relies heavily on meat and fish. It was good to see several APAN members attending with great interest, not just on the aesthetics subjects, but also attending the internal medicine stream to gain a better understanding of the integrative approach and how identifying inflammatory markers and mitigating their impact on human health can also contribute to better and longerlasting aesthetic outcomes.

Both local and global research is confirming that consumers are more and more seeking aesthetic solutions that are both safe and offer added wellness benefit. As a result we will continue to see a greater merging of aesthetic and wellness as these disciplines cross over to best support the wellbeing and appearance of the evergrowing consumer appetite to have it all.

For further enquiries of A5M Professional Development workshops and future conference programs contact 03 9813 0439, E: enquiries@a5m.net, www.a5m.net

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How Integrative and Nutritional Medicine can help support Aesthetic Appearance and improve Wellbeing An interview with Stephen Young

INTEGRATIVE medicine does not just address health issues, it also provides excellent benefits in improving skin appearance and optimising aesthetic treatment outcomes by addressing internal imbalances.

their practitioner to help them one step further – to improve their energy levels, their moods, their weight management. In essence they want to feel good as much as they want to look fantastic. "While we want our clients and patients to look good, we must not underestimate the fact that oxidative stress results in damage to the skin,” he said. We may often attempt to treat the skin with antioxidant creams, however, we now have identified a more powerful approach by treating it internally with NRF2 activators to boost the body's own antioxidant levels will result in both positive aesthetic and internal outcomes.”

Stephen Young, Compounding Pharmacist and Board Certified Integrative Medicine Practitioner, delivered insight on how integrative and nutritional medicine acts as an extension of aesthetic health, in support of patients' overarching wellbeing, at the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) Conference in August. We caught up with him to explore some of the new strategies that are proving successful in integrative WHAT IS NATRACEUTICALS NRF2 ACTIVATORS? and nutritional medicine as an extension of aesthetic medicine. When the body is young and healthy it is able to take care of the

balance between cellular damage and repair and rejuvenation. In addressing this subject, Mr Young explained that traditional One way the body takes care of repairing damage is to signal the skincare strategies are predominantly concerned with three production of antioxidant enzymes or survival genes through elements: Getting rid of dead cells, increasing cell turnover and something known as the Nrf2 pathway. strengthening and building collagen structure. Nrf2 is a powerful protein that is latent within each cell in the "However, we can achieve so much more when adding to these body, unable to move or operate until it is released by an Nrf2 strategies a thorough investigation of the nutritional and activator. Once released, it migrates into the cell nucleus and hormonal status as well as toxic overload of the individual," Mr bonds to the DNA the location of the Antioxidant Response Element (ARE), or also called hARE (Human Antioxidant Young stated. Response Element), which is the master regulator of the total “Identifying any nutritional deficiencies and hormonal antioxidant system that is available in all human cells. imbalances and also examining levels of toxicity will allow us to identify factors that are contributing to the skin's ageing This balancing act can become disrupted as one ages, or if the processes. Addressing these areas can not only enhance the skin body is overcome by malfunction and disease resulting in further treatment results, but also support the individual with greater cellular damage. This damage is known as oxidative stress and is accompanied by free radical production. vitality and wellbeing.” Mr Young said that today's consumers want to look good, and also Oxidative stress and the associated free radical damage feel good. They are looking for not just a positive aesthetic contributes to the progression of hundreds of diseases and ageing experience from the skin treatment and injectables, they also want symptoms.

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Direct antioxidants supplementation such as vitamin C, Vitamin E, berries and juices have typically been used to neutralise free radicals and to prevent the damage they cause. However, one molecule of antioxidants from these sources neutralises one free radical, i.e. they combat free radicals on a one-to-one ratio. However, there comes a tipping point where the direct antioxidants are inadequate to take care of the damage. We live in a highly toxic environment and effectively mitigating toxicity in the body is an on-going battle. Now, through the principles of nutrigenomics (the scientific study of the interaction of nutrition and genes, especially with regard to the prevention or treatment of disease), there is a better more efficient approach to fighting free radicals through the use of the body's own self-defence mechanism. This is how it works. When Nrf2 is activated in the nucleus, it turns on the production of antioxidant enzymes such as Catalase, Glutathione and Superoxide Dismutase (SOD). These antioxidant enzymes are powerful enough to neutralise up to one million free radicals per second, every second. This one-to-one million ratio proves to be a far more effective approach in combating ageing and disease. Since the Nrf2 protein remains dormant in a cell until it is activated by a Nrf2 activator, the challenge is to determine what activates Nrf2 to take advantage of the one-to-one million free radical neutralisation mentioned above. Through the study of nutrigenomics, it has been determined that a variety of foods are powerful activators of the Nrf2 pathway. While not necessarily rich in antioxidants, they directly and dramatically amplify our innate ability to produce vast antioxidant protection by signalling our DNA. In this way, specific molecules from Nrf2 activating foods can trigger the production of thousands of antioxidant molecules, providing far better protection against the skin and brain-damaging effects of free radicals compared to standard antioxidant supplements The nutrigenomics approach has identify an effective way to turn on the Nrf2 gene. Rather than give the body anti-oxidants, we give the body something to turn on the body's own antioxidant enzymes such as Glutathione and Superoxide Dismutase (SOD). There are now supplements available that can activate the body's own Glutathione and SOD.

This happens when the cell's nucleus receives signals to reveal that part of the DNA code that holds the instruction for making protective compounds. On the other hand, a not-so-healthy food supplies molecules which can activate different signalling molecules inside the cells. These switches have the reverse effect and activating them is likely to result in the production of large quantities of celldestructive molecules such as those which promote inflammation in the cell. Editor's note: In a past issue of APJ Journal we featured an article by Dr Christine Houghton on nutrigenomics and cellular biology - the formulator of Cell Logic. You can access these supplements by visiting http://www.cell-logic.com.au/products/. In addressing toxic overload, Mr Young said that toxic overload contributes to oxidative stress. The skin looks dull and lifeless. Furthermore it contributes to endocrine imbalances, which cause hormonal imbalances. This further creates immune dysfunction that feeds other imbalances. In terms of cosmetic ingredients Mr Young stressed the importance of integrating cosmeceutical ingredients into allied professionals' approaches, as this has the potential to bring about visible changes to skin, changes that are backed by clinical evidence. Topical cosmeceuticals have the ability to penetrate deeper into the skin, where collagen, elastin and cellular activity takes place whereas oral supplementation has the ability to support the body's detoxification pathways and building blocks to improve patient aesthetic outcomes and wellbeing. According to Stephen Young, this is where doctors, cosmetic surgeons and all allied health professionals must observe patients and ask the right questions to learn more about the patients so they can treat the aesthetic symptoms and underlying causes. The objective is to start to fix these issues by first correcting toxicity issues, then nutritional and hormonal imbalances. In doing so we support the gut and liver to function more efficiently. The body is then more capable of defending itself and allow for any rejuvenation strategies to become more effective. The end result is that the patient experiences improved health, more energy and vitality and their aesthetic procedures will also experience greater success and longevity.

For those who are not familiar with the principles of A collaborative approach where aestheticians and physicians working together will ultimately bring a new level of wellbeing nutrigenomics, here is a brief description: and treatment outcome for the consumer. Indeed, this is the The word 'nutrigenomics' is derived from 'nutri' meaning food, or modern approach. nutrition, and 'gene', referring to genes. 'Omics' refers to the study of something. In short, nutrigenomics describes the study of the way food interacts with the genes. A simple way of describing this is to say 'Food talking to your genes'. A more scientific definition would be to say that nutrigenomics is the study of the effects of foods and food constituents on gene expression.

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In practice, nutrigenomics means this: Various molecules found in food eventually find their way into our cells where they interact with molecules called signalling molecules. These signalling molecules are like switches inside the cell. A health-promoting food would supply molecules which can activate the switches that 'turn on' or 'turn up' the cell's ability to make protective compounds.

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THE POWER OF DESIGN An interview with Agatha Ozhylovski

TRANSFORMING your clients' experience through the power of design is the new business-growth tool as neuroscience uncovers some amazing discoveries on how certain design elements can affect client satisfaction and purchasing behaviour. The non-verbal, yet powerful language of design is now gaining centre-stage attention in the commercial and business space. Research outcomes in neuroscience are discovering evidence of how, when skilfully used, design elements can transform a business through a better client experience and even improve their spending habits. Agatha Ozhyloviski is a multi-award winning interior designer who is achieving some amazing transformations in both private and corporate spaces, and in recent times in medical and cosmetic clinics. Her work is exceptional as is her incredible knowledge in the area of neuroscience. A passionate advocate of ongoing research Agatha skilfully combines new scientific discoveries with amazing artistry transforming businesses and helping them achieve better client engagement and improved business growth.

businesses can benefit from this information.

APJ Q1: WHEN DID YOU START YOUR CAREER IN INTERIOR DESIGN AND WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO THIS PROFESSION? AGATHA: I can clearly recall when I first fell in love with design and it still defines my life today, even though I was too young to recognise it at the time. It all started when my father came to Australia from Poland in the early 1980s. He could speak very little English, he had no home and no work, but with a wife and children back in Europe he had to find a way to bring his family to Australia. He was lucky to find a boarding house in Sydney's Neutral Bay. The landlord, who was a migrant herself, empathised with his situation. She offered to help him with money upfront in exchange for him to renovate homes and apartments she owned around Maroubra and Rose Bay.

When I was eight years old and after only a few weeks in Australia, Dad took us around Sydney and showed us the beautiful old homes he had restored for this woman. I can clearly recall their grandeur, exquisite decorative detailing and beautiful To explore this amazing topic we were delighted that Agatha was one cascading gardens with views across Sydney Harbour and the of our guest speakers at the Perth APAN Aesthetics Conference in bridge. October 23 this year.

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I remember being totally awestruck by the transformations. On In this interview we speak with Agatha about her life, her profession, the way home I selected a rundown old house and redesigned it in

what is research discovering about the power of design and how

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my mind to return it to its former glory and worked on this until I fell asleep at night. On the next trip I would pick another home and do this again. This is when the seeds for my passion for interior design started. In essence, I am still doing this. However, the difference is that now I do it as a profession for real for my clients. I design around their lifestyle and taste, but best of all I get to see them live in and enjoy their homes.

APJ Q2: TELL US ABOUT THE SCOPE OF YOUR WORK. I have been fortunate to work on a diverse range of projects from beauty salons and clinics, boats and office design, through to medical centres, restaurants, wineries, hotels, apartment buildings, display villages as well as community subdivisions. I enjoy the diversity of transforming living and professional environments so that they can become more meaningful, enjoyable and add value to the property or business.

APJ Q3: WHAT CAN A BUSINESS EXPECT WHEN THEY ENGAGE YOU TO IMPROVE THEIR INTERIOR DESIGN? We provide not just a design service, but also an information service. I back interior design with the latest thinking in neuroscience to deepen the client/patient experience, confidence, trust, build brand identity and help grow the business. The result is a better-designed environment, as well as a more beautiful, functional, effective and purposeful interior. Our design difference is in our ability to analyse a space and how the space relates to the people who occupy it, as well as to add value in terms of lifestyle and profit. Understanding our client is paramount to the way we design. We recognise the importance of creating an interior that responds to the vision, culture and values of a business and connects with the people who use it. The internal environment underpins the achievement of a successful building and, ultimately, a successful business.

People are largely motivated by what makes them feel good, especially when it comes to decision making. They express what they want, like and even how much they will pay for an item even APJ Q4: WHAT HAS NEUROSCIENCE DISCOVERED if they don't understand where that value comes from or what ABOUT THE PSYCHOLOGY OF THE BUYER? influences it. Neuroscientists have now confirmed some amazing and very interesting findings. This information can benefit everyone and I overlay decades of award-winning interior design experience particularly, help contribute to shaping a more successful and expertise with the latest evidence in neuroscience, which tells businesses. They have identified how the brain is the organ that us that the environments in which we live, work and play change controls behaviour, how genes control the blueprint, the design, our brains and behaviour all the time. By applying both interior and ultimately the structure of our brain. Interestingly, they also design and principles of neuroscience to shapes, scale, textures, identified how the environment can modulate the function of materials and colour, I get to change the client/patient experience genes and ultimately the structure of our brain. Changes in the at a subconscious level, influencing what they want, what they environment can change the brain and therefore they can change like and how much they are prepared to pay. This serves to deepen our behaviour. This information has empowered us to explore the client/patients experience, build brand identity and help ways that architectural design can influence and change our brain owners grow their business. Businesses that invest in our services and ultimately our behaviour. can expect to look forward to improved client engagement and spend. Neuroscientists found that a distinctive process occurs in the brain â&#x20AC;&#x201C; consciously and subconsciously, cognitively and APJ Q6: DO YOUR SERVICES CONTRIBUTE TO physiologically â&#x20AC;&#x201C; from the moment an individual steps into a BUSINESS GROWTH AND CAN YOU GIVE US AN space. Factors such as shapes, scale, textures, materials and EXAMPLE OF THIS? sounds affect emotions, mood, decision-making, health, level of When implementing modern design trends with real-world motivation and even memory at any given moment in time. commercial needs, up-to-date information with accurate forecasting and the latest neuroscientific research information, APJ Q5: HOW DO YOUR SERVICES UTILISE THIS we have seen businesses make better key investment decisions KNOWLEDGE AND TRANSLATE IT INTO A VISUAL relating to product design, business development, marketplace ENVIRONMENT THAT WILL ATTRACT AND RETAIN introduction, advertising and/or pricing well in advance.

CLIENTS AND PATIENTS?

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quality implementation can work powerfully together to result in higher sales and client satisfaction.

APJ Q9: WHY SHOULD A CLINIC OR SALON OWNER TRUST YOU WITH YOUR RECOMMENDATIONS AND SERVICES?

This helps ensure the company makes a profit on a venture and is ahead of its competition, with capital invested wisely.

My life is my work; my work is my life. This statement is reflected in my ongoing exploration and passion of the relationship between spaces and people through lifelong education in a wide range of areas. I recognise that good design must deliver quality aesthetic outcomes and ensure successful interaction between people and place. I am committed to deliver just that through my work. The result of my services is design solutions imbued with a deeper meaning and ideas that communicate subliminal positive messages through a combination of unique skills. These are the hallmarks of my personal signature style, which also communicate inviting and indefinable warmth.

Over the years we have worked closely, both nationally and internationally, with businesses and corporations and advised them on various residential and commercial projects, including medical, workplace, retail and hospitality. As a result, they have experienced an increase in property value as well as business We understand how crucial it is for any business to create a equity. workspace that responds to the ever-changing needs of its workforce, clientele and the demands of increased costs for APJ Q7: CAN YOU SHARE WITH US A LITTLE ABOUT property and facilities.

HOW YOU DETERMINE THE BEST WAY TO ASSIST A BUSINESS IMPROVE THEIR INFLUENCE AND GROW THE We have an excellent track record in creating advanced workplace strategies for different clients. We advise on working CLIENT ACQUISITION? In short, through the latest discoveries in neuroscience overlaid with design principles. The success of any business is founded on the ability to clearly understand clients, market audience, plus current and future market trends, to exploit opportunities while reducing risk. This ensures all elements involved are explored, analysed and measured. Project outcomes are defined and the ability to influence consumer engagement and spending can substantially improve, while the cost to implement these changes can actually be quite low in relation to the return.

environments that integrate people, workflow processes, property and technology and as a result, achieve a direct and measurable effect on business performance and culture, and quality of work life.

APJ Q10: TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE YOUR SUCCESS?

In business as well as in life information is one of the most valuable commodities. Information leads to knowledge and knowledge is a powerful tool. Today, however, information is accessible to everyone. Therefore, it is essential to make APJ Q8: HOW DO YOU BELIEVE THAT YOUR SKILLS AND information count and in a timely fashion. EXPERTISE CAN HELP BENEFIT AND IMPROVE CLIENT

AND PATIENT ENGAGEMENT FOR SALONS AND Recognising consumer trends is vital to my clients' success as CLINICS? well as to my success. It is about having accurate up-to-date In today's world, consumers want to do more than merely purchase products or services: Rather, they also seek to experience, be surprised and feel emotionally connected to the places where they shop. It's about creating brands and places, big and small, that people seek out and remember and that define and sustain the communities and businesses we serve. We take the latest research in neuroscience and overlay it with design principles, taking into account the target customer group, existing brand characteristics and translate this into recommended choice of materials and finishes. A salon or clinic is an extension of the brand experience and appropriate design and high-

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information so that the client and I can make an informed decision based on all the information available. Also, AgathaO is no stranger to awards. We have been granted more than a dozen for our designs over the years. These industry awards recognise design excellence, innovation and the application of ideas. ™ Look at it this way, we get to keep the trophy, but the advantages Agatha can be contacted at AgathaO House of Design Mobile: 0414 450 759 | Web: www.houseofdesign.net.au are all with our clients . . . every time we win.

APJ Q11: WHAT ASPECT OF YOUR WORK DO YOU LOVE Agatha Ozhylovski For close to 20 years Agatha has provided distinctive design service to THE BEST? I aim to establish real relationships with the clients I have the privilege of working closely with. I like to learn about their personal, as well as their professional lives in order to provide the best possible service. I don't just look for their likes and dislikes, but also their inspirations and aspirations, goals, fears, strengths and weaknesses. Often through this process I have made some lifelong friends which I value and cherish.

the residential, boutique development and high-end commercial markets. Over the past decade she has delivered projects to the value of hundreds of millions of dollars. In addition, she has received local, national and international awards and pursued a number of interesting alliances internationally. These include an affiliation with the Saatchi Art Gallery in London, interior design projects in Europe and working with architects abroad.

Her portfolio spans the areas of residential and commercial, in particular, hospitality, workplaces, retail, hotel, education, health and medical. Agatha’s focus: Create innovative design-led solutions that are functional, commercially grounded and highly specific to clients’ needs. Agatha has featured in national and international publications, including South Australian lifestyle magazine SA Life, leading Australian architectural magazine Abode and a book by a United Kingdom-based publishing house Successful Women In Business. Agatha made it into SA Life’s ‘SA’s Bright Sparks’, an article profiling the “innovators, entrepreneurs, the doers and thinkers who will lead the State in the next decades”. Abode ranked her up with the “best projects from some of the best designers and builders in Australia”, and Successful Women In Business provided “an inspiring, thoughtprovoking insight into the stories behind Australia’s most successful business women”.

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The Importance Of Closed FaceBook Groups in Promoting Your Business “Silently” by Trish Hammond WHETHER we'd like to admit it or not, Facebook is where almost everybody evolves nowaday. “A business without a Facebook presence is a not a business.” Agree? Facebook is one of the fastest and most effective ways to promote your brand especially when you know its features and tools and when you know how to use them to your advantage. Maximising the use of your Facebook for business is such a wise move. Aside from having your Facebook page, you must know the benefits of promoting your business silently through closed groups. How do you find these groups? You have to be involved in the groups as a member, or you might even like to start your own group. Some businesses are already enjoying the advantages of having a closed group where brand ambassadors, core employee teams, fans/supporters, as well as potential clients enjoy the exchange of ideas, thoughts, procedures, treatments, information evenings, live Facebook videos and anything else you have on offer. It's like a closed community where people with the same interests regularly meet. It's also a way to build rapport with our potential customers. Here are the different groups you can create on Facebook and how they differ from each other: ● Public Group: This can be seen by anybody where they can join. Depending on its setting, the admin may need to approve your membership first before you can join. ● Secret Group: This can be seen only by its members. ● Closed Group: This can be seen by the public but only the members can see the posts. For one to join this group, the members must approve your application to join. Closed Group: We love closed groups! We have a few in the aesthetics arena and we get lots and lots of engagement, interaction

and followers. In one of our groups – it's only been open for about two months – we have over 1500 members, and the engagement is HUGE! Feel free to drop me an email if you're interested in being involved – trish@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au Of course, you will need to have a Facebook profile to be included in it. Let's discuss the effectiveness of a silent promotion via Closed Facebook Groups. One of the best things in a Closed Group is the privacy of the members as they discuss matters, anything and everything. Also there is a highly regarded sense of legitimacy and authenticity. Since every member has been approved, you can be sure that there are no spammers and that it gives each member the pride and the sense of belonging. Oh, and if you all of a sudden discover someone who is a spammer (that you've accidentally accepted not knowing that) you can simply block them. Easy peasy! But of course it also has its cons. A big disadvantage of maintaining a Closed Group is the time that one needs to manage it, especially on the approval part of the applicants who want to join. A queue of applicants that you need to check and approve may also grow tremendously in number (this can be exhausting!). And because of that, some who may be potential customers might get frustrated and withdraw their application. But this disadvantage is minimal compared to what you can earn by managing a Closed Group page. How do I overcome this? I'm a great believer that you need a team of people who you work closely with. So what you want to do is have more than yourself as an Administrator. Find a couple of people who you trust, ask them if they'd like to be involved as either an Administrator or even better, a Moderator. These people must be your allies and have your best interested in mind.

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So you see, it is really a strong move to have a Facebook Closed Group. There is really nothing to lose, just a win/win for both you and your members. Give it a try now! Oh and don't forget, it does mean more work on your part. Trish Hammond is director of Plastic Surgery Hub and an Expert Blogger who specialises in aesthetics content. She was also honoured in 2015 as the winner of the BEST AESTHETICS BLOGGER AWARD at My Face My Body global aesthetics awards. If you would like to engage an expert to help you with your blogging needs, please contact Trish on 0429 264 811 or email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au PLASTIC SURGERY HUB ALSO PROVIDE ADDITIONAL SERVICES INCLUDING: ! Press Releases ! Social Media Setup and/or Management ! Blog Submissions ! Vlogs (video blogs) ! Article Submission / Article Writing ! Directory Submissions ! Website Optimisation (individualised and specific) ! Website Creation (for you to edit and update as required)

Now available through distance learning Understanding anaesthetics is paramount to the comfort of our clients or patients and the medium to ensure this is topical anaesthetics. While there are regulatory restrictions in the use of topical anaesthetics it is imperative that every practitioner who delivers treatments such as skin needling, cosmetic tattoo, or uses devices such as fraxel or various levels of lasers gains a thorough scientific understanding of the different anaesthetics included in numbing creams, how they are metabolised in the body and ways to ensure the safety of their use on a case-by-case basis. APAN is working closely with government regulatory bodies supporting the need for regulatory reform that better suits the aesthetics industry. While every practitioner must abide by their State regulatory requirements, this course can be of value to you to assist you in gaining a more in depth understanding of topical anaesthetics, their mechanism, safety considerations and contraindications. In 2015 this course was conducted face-to-face however, there were numerous expressions of interest for the course to be made available through distance learning. We are pleased to offer the on-line version of it.

PART 1: INTRODUCTION TO THE SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS FOR COSMETIC PURPOSES The course is delivered by Compound Pharmacist Chris Testa, who is the owner and manager of Tugun Compounding Pharmacy, on the Gold Coast. Chris is also a highly respected lecturer on the topic of pharmaceutical compounding and the regulatory aspects of compounding which he delivers at the School of Pharmacy, Griffith University.

Learning Objectives include:

! An historical perspective ! A regulatory overview ! How topical anaesthetics work ! Different types of anaesthetics ! How topical anaesthetics are absorbed and metabolised ! Medication, supplements and !

medical conditions that affect the use of topical anaesthetics Introduction to the advanced training course

Chris Testa B. Bus., B. Pharm. 100

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This course will qualify for Continued Education Points towards the new registration – APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner.

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Relationships are nurtured: Not only is your relationship with your “tribe” – people of the same interests – nurtured, most importantly, your relationship is established with your super fans who would be more inspired to refer you to others. Build your support group: This is where you find your future committee, fans, tribe,and loyal members. Brainstorming and testing of ideas: You and your stakeholders can join hands and minds for the success of a project. Collaboration and training: This is a best way for both your less experienced and your most knowledgeable members to learn and help each other. Increase connection: Members in the same private group can easily give out their contact information because of the trust and friendship that has been established. Without a doubt, you can convince or include them in your business events without difficulty. Brand reinforcement: When someone shares your posts in that group, your name/the origin of that post will appear all the time for people to see which helps increase your page visitors and followers. And when you do the same with your members' posts, their name will also appear, which in turn increases their brand's popularity. You and your members have the chance to help promote each other as one belonging in the same group or community. Joint business ventures: Since engagement is so high within your closed group, trust has been established. Through your closed group, you also learn each other's strengths, knowledge and goals which may result into collaborative projects and joint ventures that should boost each one's businesses.

APAN Accredited TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS Course

STHETI AE C

Here are a few more reasons why you might like a Facebook group:

A DV To register please visit E I S O RY N www.apanetwork.com and complete a Online Registration Form. Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network Email: info@apanetwork.com | Phone: 07 5593 0360 APJ 99

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;This is not just good for the economy, it is also excellent for our industry's reputation and keeping business robust,â&#x20AC;?

HELPING BUSINESSES GROW APAN secures $1.3 million in

Government funding for qualifications MINDFUL that businesses need skilled and qualified staff to pursue their business growth opportunities APAN is continuing to apply, and successfully secure Government funding on behalf of growing businesses that need their staff to gain qualifications. Reaching a new milestone APAN is delighted to announce that to date they have secured $1.3 million in Government assisted funding through two Government projects and this is proving to help business experience stronger growth.

The aim is to ensure that the Government's investment in vocational education and training (VET) is better targeted and large loan amounts are no longer paid to courses that have limited public good.

The current proposal has indicated that VET Student Loans will only be available for the following high level VET qualification levels: ! Diploma ! Advanced Diploma ! Graduate Certificate ! Graduate Diplomas With the latest fund initiative provided through the Industry Skills Fund, the criteria for funding is becoming increasingly more Supportive of the importance of education, APAN has submitted a stringent. Businesses are required to be operating for at least report to the Government putting forward the case in favour of the three years, they must be registered for GST and have a clear importance of better qualified workforce in support of aesthetics marketing plan in place that determines how they intend to salons and clinics. diversify on the services they are currently providing the public in order to further pursue growth opportunities. "Technologies are advancing and businesses require educated and skilled staff who can deliver the lever of treatment outcome According to APAN the Government at this point in time is not that is now expected of consumers," Tina said. interested in startup businesses. However, they are prepared to assist those who have a serious business growth plan and are GOVERNMENT FUNDING THROUGH INDUSTRY SKILLS committed to reaching out to new market potential in order to FUND grow their businesses. "We are aware of many businesses that have invested heavily in high-end equipment, but are struggling to reach their full "We are mindful that the Government does not wish to spend business potential because of a lack of qualified staff who can money on individuals or businesses who are not prepared to deliver the treatments to the required standard. It is these people contribute to Australia's economic growth," Tina Viney said. who we want to help," Tina confirmed.

CHANGES TO VET FEE HELP ELIGIBILITY This concern has extended to the current reform in the VET Fee Help status that is implementing further restrictions. The currently review has established a new course eligibility and funding through VET Fee Help will be limited to courses that have a high national priority, meet with industry needs, contribute to addressing skills shortages and align with strong employment outcomes.

Stepping in to support these business APAN has put forward their case and secured qualifications for over 260 professionals during the past two years. The advantage of the Industry Skills Fund project is that those who meet the eligibility criteria can secure funding support that DOES NOT NEED TO BE PAID BACK to the Government as is required by VET Fee Help. This is a totally different funding project that is aimed at supporting the growth of

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benefit them, but will also contribute to providing evidence of the success of the whole funded project. This will ultimately assist us For businesses that qualify the funding is administered through in securing further funding for future applicants. APAN and 100% of the funds go to the designated training provider who will be delivering the qualification. IMPENDING REGULATIONS With impending regulations it is wise for all who operate lasers or DOUBLING BUSINESS RETURN â&#x20AC;&#x201C; CASE STUDY IPL devices to consider upgrading to a full qualification. Apart Tina sais that the results of this funding are meeting their from improving your competency standards and status within the objectives. We have had some amazing testimonies from industry, there is no doubt that a full qualification will allow business that have benefited from this funding. operators to gain a stronger scientific grounding on the physics that will allow them to make better treatment judgments when Shelley Laing, from Beachside Medi Spa in Port Macquarie, working with light-based therapies. Treatments expectations are qualified and put through two staff members to complete the constantly on the rise as is the advancement of technologies. SIB70110 Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction, as well as another two staff members who completed One of the key benefits that we have seen through feedback from the 10038NAT Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light people who have gain qualifications through this program is a Therapies (skin rejuvenation and tattoo removal) through this heightened confidence in determining treatment perimeters and program delivered by the Sydney Beauty and Dermal Institute. gaining the knowledge on how to work with a variety of devices existing businesses, not students who wish to enter the industry.

on the same client or patient, for example performing aspect of the In discussing the experience with Shelley she confirmed the treatment with IPL and then switching to a laser to further enhance amazing benefit that these qualification offered her business. the treatment outcome. "My staff had basic supplier training, but this could not be compared to securing a full Graduate Certificate qualification. NEW APPLICATIONS The theory was comprehensive and it was able to provide them If you would like to apply for Government-funded training please with a stronger scientific foundation and understanding of the phone APAN on (07) 5593 0360 to discuss your needs. At that technologies they were using," Shelley said. time you will be interviewed to determine your eligibility prior to completing an application form. Our intention is to put forward a "There confidence level also increased, as, of course, their further submission by the end of February 2017. Closing date is competence in delivering treatment outcomes. As a result this was 15th February 2017. a good selling point in our advertising. "Business growth was amazing and as our clients increased we needed to purchase a second laser to keep up with the demand. The outcome was that our business almost doubled as a result of this training" . "We really want to thank APAN for this amazing opportunity and for all their hard work to secure this funding on our behalf." Both APAN and the Industry Skills Fund were thrilled to see the such results. "This is not just good for the economy, it is also excellent for our industry's reputation and keeping business robust," Tina said.

WHY COMPLETING THE PROGRAM IS SO IMPORTANT With the current restriction to Government funding, it is important that businesses that are approved for funding follow through and complete their training. Furthermore, they need to stay on target to utilise the benefit of these qualification to secure their business growth and reach out to gain new clients through the introduction of new services. This is very important as APAN in applying for these funds is acting on behalf of the aesthetics industry as the Consortium. We are up against numerous other industries that are advocating to secure funding so we need to demonstrate that we are a worthwhile industry for the government to invest in. While we have achieved success in securing the funding, the businesses thatve benefited in securing this funding also have a role to play. This is because our track record for securing future funding will depend on evidence of the successful completion of those to whom funding was allocated to. In that regard every applicant that successfully completes their training will not just

OLIVE GRAY BUSINESS SOLUTIONS We provide a flexible bookkeeping service, face-to-face or remotely. Vanessa Kirkham has worked as a beauty therapist, and for the Tax Office. She understands the realities and needs of a salon business.

If you would like to discuss your needs with Vanessa please contact her on 0412 707 044

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Olive Gray Business Solutions is an APAN strategic partner.

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HOW TO DEFUSE AN ANGRY CLIENT by Tina Viney

WHENEVER there is a grievance, whether it is due to an overreaction or of a serious nature, every business in our industry would have, encountered a client who is angry, or frustrated with a treatment outcome and articulate this to the business. So, as a business owner, what is the best way to address this? There are many considerations and I will try to address them, but I would like to start by asking you to consider the experience of being on the receiving end as this will give you some idea of what works and what doesn't. So consider the following:

young woman on the phone she proceeded to employ a singsong voice and explain to me how business account holders at their bank were not allowed to do what I had already been told on three separate occasions by other bank employees that I could do. While trying to maintain my cool, I point blank asked her what I needed to do to get a solution and to stop telling me all the ways other employees had given me false information. She continued with her singsong voice and told me there was nothing that could be done to solve my problem.

When was the last time you lost your cool at a company for When I finally decided to end the conversation as I was not mistreating you as a client? getting anywhere, to which she replied in her singsong voice "I hope I was helpful", by now I was seriously thinking that I Unfortunately, too often the way companies train their needed to change banks. Mind you, I was never rude or even employees to handle angry or frustrated clients is what escalates overly aggressive to her, but I was frustrated, and her attempts to the situation versus calming them down. be singsongy and sticky sweet, only made the situation worse. A few weeks back after multiple attempts of working with my bank to get money sent to pay an overseas bill with no success, I decided to request to speak to the supervisor. This was my fourth attempt to resolve this problem, not to mention the numerous messages I left with no one getting back to me.

Too often people think that being overly "sweet" is the way to diffuse an angry customer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and that's not the case.

One of the greatest lessons I learned over the years and in studying NLP (neuro-linguistic programming) is that you've got to place people first before you attempt to lead. Meaning, you've By the time I finally managed to speak to someone, my irritation got to meet people where they are before changing the tone of a level was at an all-time high. As I explained the situation to the conversation.

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When someone shows up in an aggressive or frustrated manner, it's very annoying when the other person takes the opposite tone. It's a mismatch in the relationship. When you hear people say, "people buy from people they know, like and trust",you can't demonstrate the opposite behaviour and expect the other person to automatically calm down. The best thing to do, and this is your savvy conflict resolution tip from me, is meet the person where they are in the moment. Send the signal "we're alike, I hear you, I see you, I acknowledge where you are emotionally", before trying to make any changes. You don't have to maintain that tone in the conversation for long, but you do have to start there first before changing your behaviour.

your client is still of the more aggressive or louder tone, then you've got to continue to pace a little more. The worst thing you can do is to say to someone "calm down". And when you show up in a conversation with an irritated client and do the singsong voice, that's the message you're sending "Calm down " or "you are unreasonable, I don't know what's your problem?â&#x20AC;? This would only add fuel to the fire. Pacing and leading is an effective sales technique across the board and can be used in any customer interaction, not just with angry clients. Give it a try. Be willing to be flexible and meet people where they are instead of trying to get people to conform to your style. The outcome of the meeting was as we felt both the manager and

Here's is another personal and powerful example that left his assist showed understanding and support we were open to a mutually acceptable negotiation for a resolution. We didn't get a me feeling quite amazed:

Last year APAN had booked a conference program at the discount for our account, but we got an incredible offer to Mercure in Sydney at a given date. Our bump-in time was 7am rebook the following year and we were given an additional room at no extra cost and the assurance that we would be treatment for our exhibitors with an 8am start for our delegates to arrive. with the best of service and indeed, this year everything went On arriving at 7am we discovered that there was a breakfast smoothly so we were happy. However, what was amazing was function on that morning in the same location as our event and how they were able to turn us around without us feeling this breakfast wouldn't finish until 8.30am. When questioning manipulated in any way. We not only didn't get a refund, we whether they had made a mistake, we were told that no, we were booked the following year. Now that is what you call a positive definitely booked for this location and that "this sort-of-thing resolution. (double booking) happens all the time", to which our response was "ouch! How unprofessional." On asking to speak to the ADMISSION OF GUILT manager, we were told he would not be in until 8.30am as it was At this point I have to clarify something. When there is an a Sunday. To cut a long story short the breakfast did finished at incident where a client is unhappy about a service, it is a 8.30 at which time they sent a team to prepare the lecture room standard policy by most insurance companies that you do not and exhibition area for us. While this happened rather rapidly it "admit to any wrong-doing" or you open yourself up to liability. put us in an embarrassing situation and caused our exhibitors a This is a very important issue because while you may empathise with a client's dissatisfaction you cannot afford to admit level of frustration. liability. There is a fine line on how to avoid this here. By While the rest of the day went smoothly, at the end of the event empathising with how a person feels and seeking to rectify any we expressed our serious disappointed and requested a meeting situation you are not necessarily admitting any liability or with the manager the next morning. We demanded an wrong doing, you are merely sympathising with how the explanation and a refund for the stress and embarrassment they situation made them feel and extending a willingness to put us through. investigate how you can fix the problem. There is a difference, and it is important that you are careful not to cross that line, The next morning we were greeted by the manager together with especially if the matter moves to you being sued. Hopefully, his assistant manager. They both quietly asked us to outline the with the right approach you can defuse the situation and gain a sequence of events. While we were discussing the events in loyal client. great detail we noticed that the assistant manager was taking notes of our discussion. They both expressed their I also like to point out that any situation where a client comes understanding and empathised with our anger and frustration. back and complains to you about a product or service you have They actually justified it. In attempting to connect with us this given them must be reported to your insurance company is what I observed with their interaction: immediately, regardless as to whether it will lead to a claim or not. You are still required to report it and gain any advice and Assistant manager's statement: "Oh no, I can understand your guidance your insurance company may give you. However, the frustration, let's find out more and see how we can get this above strategy can be valuable in attempting to defuse and resolved for you." Now, as she made this statement she started at resolve the situation and hopefully result in retaining a loyal a higher volume level that closely matches our frustrated tone, client. then as she continued to speak with us she began to lower the pitch of her voice a little. This is known as pacing and leading, a technique you can use with your clients. You meet the client Membership to APAN will allow you to gain support and where they are first and then you make subtle changes to your guidance in running your business efficiently, as well as demeanour.

preventing and resolving problems. To join visit You'll know when you're in the lead because your client's www.apanetwork.com and download an application form demeanour and tone will start to resemble your tone of voice. If or to speak to a consultant please phone 07 5593 0360.

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medicalconference

12th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference reaches new heights FOR those of you who have visited the Hunter Valley in NSW you would be aware that it is renowned for its beautiful wines and amazing cheeses, not to mention the famous Hunter Valley Gardens â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Australia's largest gardens that spread over 60 acres of spectacular floral displays, offering sensational sights, colours, fragrances and adventures. It was at this picturesque destination that the 12th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference was staged earlier this year on the 5th and 6th November at the Crowne Plaza Hunter Valley. The conference continues to have accreditation and support from the Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine.

The lecture session this year was comprehensive covering both the latest scientific research findings as well as protocols and procedures for effective treatment outcomes on a variety of topics. First up on Saturday the topic of cancer was strongly featured. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgeon Dr John Flood spoke on the surgical management techniques of non-melanoma skin cancers. He demonstrated how subtle changes in skin that may present as just keratinocyte proliferation could actually be Basal Cell Carcinomas or Squamous Cell Carcinomas. Dr Flood covered in depth also the symptomatology of these conditions from itching, pain, bleeding and crusting as well as formication (the medical

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term for a sensation that exactly resembles that of small insects crawling on or under the skin). He addressed the surgical goals as well as the challenges of the total removal of tumours without damaging the surrounding tissue. In this process he presented some amazing grafting of skin flaps that aimed at minimising scarring and pulling. He also addressed the value of working collaboratively with GPs and dermatologists to ensure the best possible outcomes for the patient. His comprehensive slides presented what may seemingly appear to be a small lesion on the nose may require a deep surgical incision to the cartilage and bone that may take six months and several procedures for the skin cancer to be successfully treated. Dr Flood's lecture poignantly demonstrated the importance of a thorough diagnosis of all lesions regardless as to how minor they may appear, as certain lesions, which may appear harmless, may prove to be aggressive sub-type BCCs or SCCs. Addressing the non-surgical management of skin cancer and sun damage, Professor Dedee Murrell presented the latest approaches in drug therapy. She discussed the pre-cancerous stages of cell mutation that can be triggered by poor UVA and UVB protection from visible light exposure that can also contribute to wrinkling and loss of skin elasticity, as well as genetic predisposition that can induce mutation and the dysfunction of the p53 gene. She identified the three main stages of mutation as Initiation, Promotion and Conversion and addressed strategies to prevent these stages. In presenting drug therapy options Professor Murrell also discussed new drugs that offer promise to provide additional support and protection against skin cancer by stimulating the immune system. Specifically she mentioned Aldara drug Imiquimod, Mitvix and Ingenol mebutase gel developed in Australia by Picato from any Australian weed plant derivative. Professor Murrell discussed doses, outcomes and contra-indications as well as the benefits of photodynamic therapy through sunlight and cryotherapy for improving aesthetic outcomes. Drug therapy approaches were recommended for skin cancer patients who may not be good candidates for surgery such as elderly, diabetics and AIDS patients. She also said there was currently a new vaccine being developed as a gene therapy blocker in support of preventing skin cancer. The topic of tattoo removal using lasers was presented by Professor Lee Collins, Director of Medical Physics at Sydney's Westmead Hospital. Having worked with Professor Collins on the ARPANSA Working Group over the past four years investigating the need for regulations for IPL and laser use for cosmetic purposes I was delighted to meet him in person. After his lecture we discussed the role of education and experience in achieving good clinical outcomes when using lasers or IPL technologies. I am delighted to confirm that in the next issue of APJ we will be presenting an interview with Professor Collins on this topic as I believe he has some invaluable information to present on this topic as currently he is also working on updates to the Australian Standards in the area of lasers and IPLs.

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In his presentation, Professor Collins stressed how knowledge, skill and experience are so important in determining different wavelengths and the role of re-absorption rates in tissue penetration, when delivering tattoo removal treatments. He also discussed the advantages of Q-Switched laser technologies and

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the importance of short pulses that should be less than the thermal relaxation time for the target. Additionally, he presented considerations when using different technologies in delivering these treatments. Professor Collins did not recommend IPL as an effective tool for tattoo removal. Other topics that were strongly featured on Saturday included the treatment of rosacea. This topic was delivered both by Dr Shawn Richards (dermatologist) and also by Professor Murrell. Dr Richards covered the physical management of rosacea, aetiologies, topical, oral and physical treatment options for this condition, while Professor Murrell identified the various types of rosacea, associated diseases, such as metabolic disorders, allergies, thyroid cancer and the various microorganisms that contribute to rosacea that may affect both skin and gut and the inflammatory pathways in rosacea. Treatment approaches included various types of lasers and protocols for the best treatment outcomes. Professor Murrell also indicated that in addressing the issue of erythema and redness practitioners can significantly help with the psychological problems that often rosacea suffers endure. Other topics addressed were: The new minimally invasive Cryomed Radiofrequency and Microneedling treatment for the remodelling of collagen, improve textural scarring and skin laxity of face and jaw line. In the afternoon there were free paper sessions addressing a variety of technologies, including cryolipolysis with a double applicator 3D approach for addressing fat reduction, high speed, low-pain micro-focused ultrasound for tightening of the lower face and neck, inflammation associated with cosmetic procedures utilising Restylane and complications from Juvederm as well as IPL complications. On Sunday topics included thread lifting, acne treatments, facial rejuvenation techniques combining dermal fillers and muscle relaxants for optimal results. Another valuable session discussed medical legal issues, non-surgical fat reduction and the role of fat freezing, as well as new advances in the management of vulvae-vaginal atrophy and vaginal prolapse. On both days the late afternoons were dedicated to expert panel discussions and demonstrations. Supported by an exhibition consisting of a variety of quality equipment suppliers, skincare and professional service companies also contributed to a very successful professional event. This year's conference program was marked with quality speakers, amazing networking and information exchange with the added bonus that it happened in one of Australia's most idyllic destinations. Without a doubt a most successful event.

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Save the date! 13th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference: 11-12 November 2017 Crown Promenade, Melbourne. For further information please visit: www.dcconferences.com.au/lcmc2017

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scientifictechnologies

An Interview with

PROFESSOR LEONARDO MARINI KNOWN as one of the most prominent world authorities and pioneers in the field of combination treatments in laser and a variety of light-based therapies, Professor Leonardo Marini is a general surgeon and dermatologist. His clinical research led to the development of photo-peel, advanced multi-layer photodynamic treatments, sequential laser layering techniques to treat capillary-venular malformations, post-acne scars, skin ageing and tattoo removal. Professor Marini visited Australia from Italy in August for a series of lectures in six different State sponsored by Stratpharma and Innovative Medical Technologies. In between his busy schedule we were able to have a brief discussion with him and glean some of his incredible knowledge.

APJ Q1: Professor Marina you are an expert in advances combination technologies. Tell us a little about the new Radio Frequency and Pulsed Magnetic Field combination? Professor Marini: RF and Pulsed Magnetic Field combination is an innovative approach to effectively address skin laxity, body reshaping and cellulite. Many different RF devices have claimed clinical efficacy in rejuvenating the skin through controlled dermal and subcutaneous fat bulk heating. Multipolar RF has shown to be superior to monopolar and bi-polar RF in effectively inducing a sequential electro-thermal tissue stratification effect improving patient comfort and decreasing side effects. Pulsed Magnetic Fields (PMF) have proven to accelerate angiogenesis, cutaneous wound healing, bone and nerve repair. PMF also decrease post-surgical pain and oedema as well as negatively influence bacterial and tumoral cell growth. The association of these two technologies seems to produce a synergistically effective dermal-hypodermal tissue functional improvement inducing long term collagen remodelling, adipose tissue reshaping and cellulite regression. Venus Freeze I believe, is the first technical example where these two innovative bio-medical strategies are intimately associated. Temperature-induced intracellular synthesis of stress proteins could theoretically stand as the very base of the tissue bio-

stimulation leading to optimisation of cellular function. PMFinduced cellular and around cell positive micro-environmental changes ideally contribute to speed up and consolidate tissue functional improvements. Long-term results are very promising and can be progressively visible 2-4 months after one series of 6-10 treatments. Patient satisfaction is very high (85% of treated patients). There is minimal transient side effects that were reported and were considered absolutely acceptable by both patients and physicians. More studies are nevertheless required to further understand the full potential of this extremely innovative technique.

APJ Q2: Tell us about any new topical produce innovations for wound healing and what benefits do they offer practitioners? What topical products would you use post laser treatments? On every wounded surface the epidermis is compromised. When attempting to support the healing process you cannot afford to apply irritation barriers. For example, Vaseline is occlusive however, it is also inflammatory and uncomfortable. We now have new silicone gels that are formulated with the right composition to allow vapours to escape. An example is Stratamed, which dries to form a full contact, flexible wound dressing that is adaptable to all kinds of wound surfaces and able to mimic the epidermal barrier. It is the first semi-occlusive, self drying, transparent silicone wound dressing in the form of a gel that can be applied on compromised skin. It is gas permeable and can be used immediately after a surgical procedures, trauma, skin resurfacing, burns and chronic wounds. It allows for fast wound healing and reduces the inflammatory response, improving the visible outcome of the procedure and dramatically decreasing the incidents of abnormal scarring. Furthermore, it increase the epithelial cells migration, while protecting from chemical and microbial invasion.

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APJ Q3: One of your areas of research findings and expertise has to do with establishing a potential link between food intolerances and inflammatory skin conditions such as rosacea, psoriasis and advanced post-treatment dressing protocols. Can you share with us some of this information?

We conducted a study of over 20,000 from various populations assessing the impact of diet and food intolerances and

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specifically, the impart that these had on dermatological conditions. We identified in Western populations for example, gluten intolerance as a common condition. We discovered that if you have a gluten intolerance this compromises the gut flora with symptoms such as bloating or tiredness. Lactose intolerance was another one that was common. With such conditions we found that skin conditions such as eczema and dermatitis flared up and extensive inflammation often resulted. When these foods were removed the patient experience a substantial improvement. We also found that often it was a case of overdoing it. If we eliminated these foods for two to three months, then slowly reintroduced them back into the diet in small quantities, we found they were usually well tolerated. Often the issues were related to grains that were exposed to pesticides and GMO processes. Our wheat and grass are very different today. This has led to advances in nutrigenomics, which from a scientific perspective, is seen as a new approach – looking at food as playing a therapeutic role in health. Nutrigenomics and nutrigenetics look at the interplay between nutrition and genetics of an individual. This branch of science looks at the effect of heredity on diet and nutrition. Nutrigenomics is a branch of nutritional genomics and is the study of the effects of foods and food constituents on gene expression. It focuses on identifying and understanding molecular-level interaction between nutrients and other dietary bioactives with the genome. It also looks at the impact of changes in inherited traits of nuclear DNA, and the response to specific metabolic dysfunctions.

According to the World Health Organisation reports diet factors influence occurrence of more than two third of diseases and most of these factors belong to the categories of nutrigenomics. We have so much valuable information now that allows us to better understand health and skin reactions. Multiple advances in technology and science makes our work very rewarding as we can now access new tools to achieve better results in our practices.

About Professor Marini Professor Marini concluded his training as a General Surgeon in 1987 and as Dermatologist in 1989. He decided to synergistically combine these two specialties together and became a Dermatologic Surgeon after further specific training in the US, Australia, Germany, and France. He is currently the medical director of SDC – The Skin Doctors' Centre of Trieste, Italy and served as Professor of Laser Dermatology at the University of Siena, Parma, and Verona. His primary interests are the surgical management of skin cancer with Mohs' m i c r o g r a p h i c s u r g e r y, advanced dermatological applications of lasers and energy sources, advanced photodynamic therapy and aesthetic dermatology.

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skinscience

GLYCATION REVISITED New science providing insight into skin ageing by Terry Everitt TERRY wrote about glycation for us previously in an article titled Glycation-Bad for the skin but good for business published in the winter edition (Volume 25) 2015. The article ended with an openended conclusion. Terry has further studied glycation resulting in a seminar lecture this year for medical professionals at the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) conference and more recently for APAN conference in Perth. This article continues the scientific information flow from the previous writing.

AGEs act as mediators and can initiate a wide range of abnormal responses in cells and tissues, such as the inappropriate expression of growth factors, alterations in growth dynamics, accumulation of amorphous extra-cellular matrix and initiation of cell death through decreased solubility, elasticity and enzymatic affinities in long-living protein fibres, such as collagen.

Glycation is always occurring, however, it is due to the buildup of damage in the underlying skin structures that take time to manifest visually on the skin surface. In fact, we don't see this Glycation has been a buzz word for some time and seemingly a damage until approximately the mid 30 years of age. So then, to recent discovery, although it has been known for around 20 years refresh our memory, what is the process of glycation? now. Most understand glycation as when a sugar and protein meet in the body resulting in Advance Glycation End Product or Advance Glycation End Products(AGEs) arise exogenously from AGEs. However, new research is now suggesting that this it is heated food, or endogenously through metabolism and ageing. It nowhere near that simple. is formed from non-enzymatic reaction of reducing sugars with free amino groups of proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids. It is not that any sugar can combine with any protein, an elaborate interface between specifics is required. While glycation occurs Many therapists think that glucose is the real problem, however throughout the body, this article will stay with the affects that fructose and galactose are stronger glycating agents than glycation has on the various components relating to the skin. glucose(1). Interestingly glucose, galactose and fructose share the Sadly, it is the long lived structural elements that show much of same molecular formula: C6 H12 O6 (making all known as a the damage visually on the skin's surface, well after the damage is hextose). Although all three share the same molecular formula, done. the arrangement of atoms differs in each case, which allows some to be more reactive than others. As mentioned in the previous HOW DOES GLYCATION AFFECT THE SKIN? article, glucose is usually found in a ring formation that makes the Glycation affects chronological ageing, resulting in tissue aldehyde group (H-C=O, note the double bond between the atrophy and functional decline with decreased synthesis of newer carbon and oxygen) less available for attachment to protein. macromolecules, particularly in the dermis. This ultimately leads to impaired homeostasis of the normal synthesis and degradation Strangely we need the joining of sugars and protein to survive and of the extra-cellular matrix of both the epidermis and dermis. this is a natural and normal occurrence. The difference between

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the good and the bad combinations of carbohydrates and protein comes down to enzymes. Hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate that are joined together with the help of enzymes produce an important glycoprotein, essential for life. On the other hand, if these two met without the help of the 'joining' enzyme, then the result would be an AGE.

3 and 10 (Stromelysins). We know that when we cook food at high, dry temperature (such as roasting) we get a full Mallard reaction taking place producing irreversible Shiff and Amadori products resulting in massive amounts of AGEs. Sadly, we get somewhat the same reaction in our skin when we cook ourselves with Ultraviolet light and the resulting damage to structure and chemical signalling.

HERE COMES THE CHEMISTRY Glycation then is the non-enzymatic fusion of carbohydrates and proteins. The chemical process moves through three major steps; 1. Schiff base, 2. Amadori product and with heat, the 3. Mallard Reaction. The first two steps are reversible, however when the Amodiari product becomes oxidised to form the Millard Reaction, it becomes irreversible.

Cell

Increases

Keratinocytes

Apoptosis, ROS, MMP, senescence, NFkB, proinflam

Cell renewal Epidermal homeostasis

Fibroblasts

Apoptosis, ROS, MMP, senescence, NFkB, NOX,

Cell renewal Dermal homeostasis, Contractile function

Dermal proteins

Cross-linking, cell communication,

Decreases

Tissue permeability, elasticity, resistance to repair mechanisms, MMP degradation

Modified from Gkogkolou and Bohm (2012)(2) This graphic indicates some of the major damaging effects happening in the skin. Just so you know, proteins are the main, yet not only the target for AGE production; some lipids are also affected. AGEs increase the likelihood of low density lipoproteins (LDL) to oxidation. Formation of glycated hemoglobin A1c (HbA1c)

AGE RAGE

I have used the HbA1c as an example as this is the major So may cells have a specific toll-like receptors in the cell membrane, termed RAGE (Receptor for Advanced Glycation biomarker for glycation and diabetes. End products). This results in a number of cellular signalling The diagram shows the initial step of glycation between glucose pathways to activate, one of which is the activation of NF-kÎ˛, and amino acid (NH2) where the amino side groupis hemoglobin (Nuclear Factor kappa Î˛),which is a major ageing factor due to the of an erythrocyte. (All the action takes place at the top of the inflammatory process it promotes and elongates. This converts a chemical structures. Notice the movement of Hydrogen which short term inflammatory process into a chronic phase and the makes all the difference). resulting cellular dysfunction. HbA1c is an Amadori product and is formed through the Two frequent AGEs are known as methylglyoxyl and glyoxyl intermediate Schiff base step. (which are chemically termed carbonyls). These work to damage DNA strands within the cellular nucleus. As you can imagine, Schiff base is a double bond between the carbon atom of the once the DNA strands are cross-linked the cell is no longer viable. glucose and the nitrogen atom of the lysine amino acid. If this chemical pathway that instructs the cell that it is in fact damaged and should destroy itself (apoptosis), is itself made Amadori product is a re-arrangement from the Schiff base, redundant. Then the damaged DNA continues in the cell line and wherein the hydrogen atom from the hydroxyl group (OH) causes cellular mutations. adjacent to the carbon-nitrogen double bond moves to bond to the nitrogen, leaving a ketone. Collagen, which has multi-amino groups, is a frequent target of AGEs and one AGE can attach to multiple receptors of the collagen strand causing immobilisation of the collagen to One concern is that fructoselyne, formed by glycation of lysine undertake its proper function. and fructose is oxidatively cleaved to form smaller substances like carboxymethyl lysine (CML) and pentosiodine. Both of Collagen has a long half-life (approximately five years), so cross which are valuable markers of glycated stress and damage. linked damage takes a while to show and is at present, considered

CARBOXYMETHYL LYSINE

irreversible. On the other hand, elastin fibres are also effected as CML increases matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), a group of much as collagen, with the resulting skin sag. enzyme peptidases involved in degradation of the extracellular matrix.Of particular concern is the increase of MMP-1, 8, 13, 18; Glycation then causes accelerated ageing, with 'yellowness' of the (all being Collagenases); MMP -2 and 9 (Gelatinases) and MMPs skin, stiffness, decreased glycosaminoglycan's and circulation.

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Benfotiamine is the lipid soluble form of thiamine (Vitamin B1) PREVENTION OF GLYCATION The best way of reducing and minimising glycation is via the diet and is said to reverse many metabolic changes induced by – calorie restriction – mostly from reduction of high calorie sugar. hyperglycemia in vitro, including formation of methylglyoxalderived AGEs. The mechanisms of benfotiamine action include As I mentioned previously, exogenous uptake of AGEs is via antioxidative and anti-inflammatory effects, in vitro and in vivo cooking methods. Did you know that dry heat promotes 10-100 X settings.(6) above AGEs in the uncooked state, particularly those high in fat and protein? Carbohydrate rich food such as vegetables and fruit PHARMACEUTICAL INTERVENTION and whole grains actually provide relatively few AGEs post Most drugs that have affect with glycation are primarily cooking. AGE is reduced with moist heat, shorter cooking time, hypoglycemic in nature and used to treat diabetes. While not in lower temperatures and with acidic basting such as with lemon or your domain (if you are not a doctor) to prescribe such vinegar(3). Frying food however increases the rate of AGE interventions, it is useful to know what medication your clients production. dvancednd products i foods and a practical Guide to may be on, which have a secondary effect in reducing glycation. their reduction in the die Metformin is regarded as the first line of defence, then the short SUPPLEMENTATION acting sulfonylures such as Gliclazide and Glipizide. These are Aminoguanidineis an effective inhibitor of glycation acting as generally preferred over long-acting sulfonylureas (such as scavengers of the reactive carbonyl intermediates – glyoxal, Glibenclamide and Glimepiride). glycoaldehyde and methylglyoxal. These intermediates induce DNA strand breaks, in turn cause cross-linking, nuclear Other drugs classes are the Sodium Glucose co-transporter -2 condensation and inactivation of DNA. (SGLT 2) such as Dapaglifozin (Forxiga) or Empaglifozin Pyridoxine is anisoform of pyridoxine (Vitamin B6),and (Jardiance) and the Glucagon-Like Peptide-1 (GLP-1) class, such considered to have multiple mechanisms of action, such as as Exenatide (Byetta) or Exenatide (Bydureon), which are (7) blocking oxidation of the Amadori intermediate and trapping prefilled subcutaneous injections. reactive carbonyl and dicarbonyl compounds derived from the Amadori compound. Essentially, Pyridoxamine traps reactive SKIN CARE INGREDIENTS carboyl intermediates, while scavenges Reactive Oxygen Species Sadly, I must say that so far, from a scientific study point of view, (4) (ROS). Further proof of Pyridoxamine benefits came from a there are very few topically applied products that are considered study, which concluded that “the inhibition in the formation of effective for the treatment of glycation. This is of course greatly glycation reaction reveals that Pyridoxamine is a better different from the marketers point of view. antiglycating agent than Metformin (a drug) at all stages of the glycation (early, intermediate and late stages).”(5)

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Scan to see APAN’s complete range of cards for you to order. 25

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While testing for glycation in the skin is possible although expensive, and remains in the realm of the laboratory, this is slowly changing. I think that in the not too distant future testing for glycation will be much simpler and available in a clinic or salon environment. At present the main substance tested in the skin is the presence of pentosidine, which forms fluorescent cross-links between the arginine and lysine residues in collagen. This can be seen under ultraviolet light.

The glycoxidation process affects the cell’s metabolic function by causing damage to mitochondrial proteins, resulting in a heightened release of intracellular ROS, while causing a deactivation of the essential enzymatic antioxidant activity, thereby further enhancing the oxidative damage to cellular components. Perhaps more damming is the deactivation of the enzymatic DNA repair mechanism, thereby contributing to the accumulation of DNA damage.

INGREDIENTS WITH SCIENTIFIC LITERATURE BACKING While precipitated by external factors, the internal damage of glycation and glycoxidation is unseen for years before finally THEIR EFFECTIVENESS

At this point the following are nutrients are considered to be making it appearance known. A combined effort by the skincare practitioner in the education of their clients regarding lifestyle beneficial for reducing AGEs: factors, drugs, supplements and skincare can not only repair much Acetyl-L-carnitine replaces energy reserves and intracellular ROS of the damage caused, but can also help in the prevention of the generation, while Pyridoxal 5-phosphate (active form of B6) - damage to begin with. break down glycogen in glycogenolysis. You cannot afford to wait until the glycative damage is visible; at Flavonoids such as quercetin, rutin and myricetin show promise in this point it is a little late to effectively combat the problem. reducing AGEs, as does Pomegranate extract, rich in pyridoxal 5phosphate and 8-oxoguanine glycosilase (OGGL). All appear to Terry Everitt is regarded as a 'Master Skincare Professional' due to his extensive knowledge of the art and science of skincare. A be beneficial in DNA repair.

very competent educator who continues to lecture from an Anthocyanin, cyanidin-3-rutinoside (C3R) inhibits methylglyoxal evidence based scientific background. Terry remains the Senior (MG) induced protein glycation and oxidative protein and DNA Lecturer at the Australasian College of Health and Wellness and damage.

PLANTS TO THE RESCUE

Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To contact Terry you can reach him on terryeveritt@gmail.com.

There has been many studies undertaken with botanicals and their possible effectiveness in the interruption of the glycation process. References: Much of these are novel, however there are already some standout 1. Danoux, L. Mine, S. Abdul-Malak, N. Henry, F. ingredients isolated so look out for ingredients such as: Jeanmaire, C. Freis, G. Pauly, G. Cittadini, L. AndréFrei, V. Rathjens, A. (2014). How to help the skin cope Manilkara, a leaf extract from tropical tree – rapid antioxidant with glycoxidation. Clinical Chemistry & Laboratory capacity and seems effective in combatting Medicine. 52(1): 175–182. DOI 10.1515/cclm-2012Carboxymethyllysine. 0828 2. Gkogkolou, P. Bőhm, M. (2012). Advanced glycation Arganiaspinose (also known as Argan) from a flowering tree found end products – Key players in skin ageing? Dermatoprimarily in Morocco and Algeria, is rich in rutin, quercetin and Endocrinology. 4:3. 259-270. galactoside for anti-inflammatory activity. 3. Uribarri, J. Woodruff, S. Goodman, S. Cai, W. Chen, X.(2010) Advanced glycation end products in foods and DavillaRugosa, used in Brazil for centuries as a medicinal plant, is a practical Guide to their reduction in the diet. Journal of helpful in the rapid trapping of carbonyls such as glycoaldehyde. the American Dietetic Assoc2010;110:911-916 This in turn preserves newly synthesized collagen – supports the 4. Voziyan, P.A. Hudson, B.G. (2012) Pyridoxamine as a organization of the fibrillar network. multifunctional pharmaceutical: targeting pathogenic glycation and oxidative damage. Cell Mol Life Sci Both the Argania spinose and DavillaRugosa are high in 2005;62:1671–1681 phytochemicals, such as polyphenols, that are established 5. Ahmad S, Shahab U, Baig MH, Khan MS, Khan MS, et antioxidant molecules that reduce free radical damage caused by al. (2013) Inhibitory Effect of Metformin and the glycated proteins. Pyridoxamine in the Formation of Early, Intermediate Terminalia chebula is highly revered in traditional Chinese and and Advanced Glycation End-Products. PLoS ONE Ayurvedic medicine for treating a wide range of health 8(9): e72128. doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0072128 6. Bozic, I. Savic, D.Stevanovic, I. Pekovic, S. conditions. With its active molecule, Chebulic acid, being Nedeljkovic, N. Lavrnja, I. (2015). Benfotiamine effective asan inhibitor andbreaker of glycation cross-linking. upregulates antioxidative system in activated BV-2 Additional activity is in collagen I & III stimulation and inhibition microglia cells. Frontiers in Cellular Neuroscience. of Hyaluronidase, MMP-1, MMP-2 & MMP-3. (1) Published online. http://dx.doi.org/10.3389/fncel.2015.00351 DAMAGE SUMMARY 7. National Prescription Service. June 2016. There is no doubt that glycation initiates a number of individual Medicinewise News. Sydney. causative effects throughout the body and in particular the skin, both in the epidermal and dermal constituents. Chief among the damage cascade is that of the oxidative free radical damage, collectively termed glycoxidation.

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internationalconferance

International Congress of Esthetics and Spa (ICES) IN this article Terry moves away from cosmetic chemistry and skin science as our intrepid traveller returns to his beginning as a skin care professional in Los Angeles. While there he was invited to attend an Aesthetic Congress and to highlight the differences between the Californian Aesthetician and the Australian Beauty Therapist.

equipment, or shower cellulite treatments, stem cells and growth factors, to mention a few subjects on offer.

Additionally, they held three separate afternoon conferences on specific subjects matter in the afternoon titled Revenues Growth Conference, a Mindful Biz conference and a Spa Refresh conference with Monday afternoon having the focus on Social The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa (ICES) is held in Media, Customer Care, Wellness and Makeup. four different locations each year in USA, approximately in the same month and in the same cites (Dallas, Philadelphia, Long EXHIBITORS 217 exhibitors were listed in the program, which itself is 51 pages. Beach and Miami) that cover the span of the American mainland. Most exhibitor names would not be familiar to you unless you The congress is a combined effort and hosted by two of America's have spent time in USA. One of the great things about this professional aesthetic journals â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Les NouvellesEsthetiques and congress, is that it allows smaller, growing companies to exhibit. Dermascope. Some of the well-known brands are there of course, however it is The Long Beach congress theme this year was REFRESH. The the neogenesis of tomorrows brand names that are prominent. thought behind the theme was to allow estheticians (American Almost everything is for sale at the stands, even the equipment. If spelling) to refresh their mind, body, thoughts and habits. you buy and can take then you take it with you, or of course The congress ultimately has education as its primary focus, arrange delivery. The exhibitors cover the wide range of skincare, whether that be in a formal class/lecture setting (and there are lots equipment, makeup and all the associated consumables. of that as mentioned below), or informally, presented on the The cost of the congress is US $45 per day or a 2-day admission exhibition floor with the vendors. for US $70 if pre-registered and on the day the cost goes to $55 . and $90 respectively. This cost is all inclusive of all education, EDUCATION The model used for ICES is that they have Main Stage lecturers whether it be via the main stage, exhibitor focused or any of the and demonstrations in the morning of both days approx. 10 am â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 1 'specialist' afternoon conferences. pm and then a plethora of product/equipment-focused training in the afternoon, undertaken by the various distributors. In total Regardless as to how many seminars one attends, or indeed the there were 57 separate classes to attend over the two afternoons, in amount of time spent with the various exhibitors, it is always two timeslots; 2-3.15pn and 3.45-5 pm. The problem is of course possible to come away with a wealth of information that can be in choosing between all of the simultaneous classes as there are 15 used to increase your knowledge, skill and professionalism. or so classes happening in each of the above timeslots.

If you wish to attend an international congress, the ICES congresses are highly recommended. Whether you own an aesthetic business or work in one, this educational experience makes a sizable tax deduction (if the congress was your primary purpose).

The educational experiences are over a wide range of subject matters. Just a random selection of training covered subjects such as, organic permanent makeup, results-based product and treatment plans, brows to Brazilian (and everything in-between), microneedling, sensory experiences, physiological approach to Of course, ICES is only one aesthetic show happening in the big peels, dermaplaning verses microdermaplaning in California, wide world, as I have written about others in previous editions of lifting facials without surgery, using multiple platforms in brand APJ. Whether you are interested in the American or the European, promotion, camera diagnosis, Jessener peel certification, no South African or almost anywhere else, you can check the

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International Aesthetics Show Calendar that I prepare each year electrocurrents. This is the only license that allows a licensee to for APAN and featured in the Aesthetic Bulletin of APJ. While the use a needle. complete year usually is not provided in each journal, APAN does Information obtained from the California Board of Barbering and have the calendar for the complete year, so ask for it.

DIFFERENT COUNTRY, DIFFERENT RULES The most obvious difference between the exhibitors in Australia and in California is the lack of IPL/Laser equipment. Estheticians in California are not allowed to use such equipment and in fact cannot do any treatment that penetrates the skin. IPL/Laser use for example requires a medical license i.e. physician. Obviously, there is no professional body advocating for aestheticians, unlike here in Australia.

Cosmetology. http://www.barbercosmo.ca.gov/forms_pubs/publications/faqs.shtml#cs2 accessed 2/10/2016.

Because the training hours for an aesthetician license are so short (600 hours), post graduate training is so popular and well attended (in fact, essential). This differs greatly from the Australian experience where post-graduate training is generally poorly attended, except for the few dedicated people in the industry.

While a vast variety of equipment are prevalent in Australia the situation is very different in the US where there is a great lack of equipment that aesthetics are allowed to use. For example, there are no IPLs or Lasers as they are doctor-only modalities. Also there are no Radio-frequency, or Ultrasonic based therapies. In contrast, there is wide range of distributors that offer 'basic' electrical equipment such as, galvanic, high frequency, microdermabrasion and LED. However, chemical peels remain In America, it is all state based requiring a licence to operate. Each big business. state (some states do not even have a licence or recognised Again, this is California and other states allow different treatment training) and they set their own requirements and training hours, modalities. which vary considerably so there is no uniform standard across the nation. I also had the pleasure to catch up with a bunch of people there and There is no nationally government-endorsed training in America, as is the case in Australia with the National Training Package providing the framework of qualification structure of required knowledge and skill. For the necessary skill and knowledge base, the industry accepted standard here in Australia is the Diploma level qualification, currently coded SHB50115 Diploma of Beauty Therapy.

two in particular I would like to mention. California has five licences with training hours of 1600 for a Cosmetologist (includes being a hairdresser and esthetician)1500 Someone I met when I first went to LA in late 1980s was Sidney hours for a Barber, 600 hours for an Esthetician, 600 hours for an Cramer who has had for some years now Spa Sidney Beauty Electrologist and 400 hours for a Manicurist. As you can see, what Lounge in Long Beach http://www.spasidney.com can be done by whom is fairly specific. As confirmed above, there was not much machinery used, As you can see, the esthetician (Beauty Therapist) undertakes 600 however, I believe that Sidney is a master of the “hands can do it hours of training as opposed to the Australian mode of some 1200 all”. A treatment from him is a total luxurious and empowering for the Diploma Qualification. Hairdressers undertake approx. experience. Each treatment is a master class in its self. If you are 1000 hours of training with the addition 600 being for esthetican ever in Long Beach, you must get a treatment from who I believe training. In California there is no separate 'Hairdresser' license (as is one of the best in the profession. we understand it here in Australia) nor is there a separate makeup license; this is covered in esthetician license. Many of you will know of Rebecca Gadberry, one of the industries preeminent educators, particularly around cosmetic All licensees are able to perform services for beautification only. chemistry. She has run a brilliant cosmetic chemistry science They may not perform procedures that penetrate the skin or affect program at the University of California, Los Angeles (UCLA) any living tissue (with the exception of the Electrologist who may since 1986, which educated thousands of aesthetic professionals. penetrate the skin with the appropriate tools in the scope of their It was always a total pleasure to catch up with her and sadly license). however find this current program in the next few months will be her last at UCLA. In semi-retirement, Rebecca's new interests lie ! Cosmetologist can prep, style, cut, colour hair on the body in the skins microbiome that make our skins own ecosystem. including tinting eyelashes. They may also perform facials Never having shied away from the hard stuff, Rebecca is also and remove hair by waxing or tweezing. Their license also studying Epigenetics and how that affects us so you can watch out allows them to provide the services of a manicurist and for some great publications from her regarding this fascinating esthetician. topic. At least you can keep up with what is happening by joining ! Barbers can prep, style, cut and colour hair. They may also her Facebook group Skin Care Ingredient Experts. apply cosmetic preparations, antiseptics, powders or

! ! !

lotions to the scalp, face or neck. Barbers are the only licensees who can perform a shave on a consumer. Estheticians can perform facials; remove hair by tweezing or waxing. They may also apply makeup and false eyelashes. Manicurists can give manicures and pedicures and apply, false nails (using gel, acrylic or silk). Their licenses limit their contact to the hand and foot area only. Electrologists perform their services with a needle or probe to remove the hair on the body of a person using

For your own growth expand your horizons, create space for new knowledge. I think it was best said by Alvin Toffler: “The illiterate of the 21st century will not be those who cannot read and write, but those who cannot learn, unlearn and relearn.”

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Ever evolving our industry indeed, has much to offer. 5

For further information contact www.lneonline.com 0

APJ 114

herbalprofile

The Power of

ROSEMARY ESSENTIAL OIL

By Tina Viney IN this day and age of stress overload we often experience fatigue that can hinder our productivity. While there are many strategies that can help address this issue, there is one particular essential oil that can be of great benefit in improving, not just energy levels, but also memory and performance, and that is rosemary. Several years ago I completed a training program in Aromatic Medicine delivered by French physician and essential oil authority Dr Daniel Pénoël. One of the key oils that he covers was the power of rosemary and how it can be used to improve, not just memory and performance, but also numerous other benefits. Recent studies are constantly confirming the numerous Its health benefits made it a favourite of Paracelsus, a Germantherapeutic benefits of rosemary essential oil. So I have chosen Swiss physician and botanist who contributed greatly to the understanding of herbal medicine in the 16th century. He valued to profile this amazing oil.

WHAT IS ROSEMARY OIL? Rosmarinus officinalis, or rosemary is related to the mint family and looks a little like lavender. It has leaves like flat pine needles touched with silver and boasts a woodsy, citrus-like fragrance that has become a feature of many kitchens, gardens, and apothecaries worldwide. It derives its name from Latin words ros ("dew") and marinus ("sea"), or "dew of the sea." The Virgin Mary is said to have spread her blue cloak over a rosemary bush as she rested, and the white flowers turned blue. The shrub therefore came to be known as the "Rose of Mary." Rosemary was considered sacred by the Egyptians, Hebrews, Greeks, and Romans, and was used in the Middle Ages to ward off evil spirits and protect against the plague.

rosemary oil because of its entire body-strengthening ability, such as the healing of sensitive organs like the liver, heart, and brain.

CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS OF ROSEMARY OIL The main chemical components of rosemary oil include a-pinene, borneol, b-pinene, camphor, bornyl acetate, camphene, 1,8cineole, and limonene. A study published in Chemistry of Natural Compounds looked at the volatile compounds obtained from the essential oil of rosemary cultivated at the Algerian Sahara. Its analysis found that 30 compounds represented 98.2 percent of the essential oil, with 1,8-cineole (29.5 percent), 2-ethyl-4,5dimethylphenol (12 percent) and camphor (11.5 percent) as the major components.

NUTRITIONAL PROFILE

Rosemary oil has a clean, refreshing herbal smell, is clear in According to Dr Axe, Rosemary has an amazing antioxidant colour, and is watery in viscosity. It is extracted from the fresh ORAC value of 3,300, and has the same free radical fighting power as goji berries! The chemical in rosemary primarily flowering tops through steam distillation, yielding 1-2 per cent. responsible for this is carnosol, a phenolic diterpene also found in mountain desert sage. In addition to being a rich antioxidant, carnosol is also known for its anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory properties, which help explain why rosemary essential oil is so potent. According to a recent article published in several medical journals, “Carnosol has been evaluated for anti-cancer property in prostate, breast, skin, leukaemia, and colon cancer with promising results!”

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It has also been discovered that carnosol targets cells to reduce inflammation and can also: ! Balance androgen and oestrogen in the body ! Lower DHT (dihyroxytestosterone) improving hair growth and prostate health ! Reduce cancer risk

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Increase nerve growth factor healing nerve tissue

According to researchers, “It has a selective toxicity towards cancer cells versus non-tumorigenic cells and is well tolerated when administered to animals.” In other words, carnosol acts selectively on cancer cells without damaging neighbouring cells like the chemotherapy nuclear-bomb approach, which kills everything along its path.

1. Skin rejuvenation Studies confirm that rosemary essential oil can assist the skin by improving hydration levels and skin tone due to its high quantities of antioxidants. It is therefore an excellent ingredient to assist in softening lines and wrinkles as well as toning loose skin under the eyes. Its cell regeneration properties are also effective in enhancing skin renewal and reducing the appearance of scars.

2. Treatment Of Acne

BENEFITS OF ROSEMARY OIL

Rosemary oil has powerful disinfectant and antiseptic properties. These, combined with its astringent properties help in treating This amazing oil offers many benefits and I will attempt to acne and oily skin conditions and also will help to lighten include some of these in this article however, I would have to say blemishes on the skin. that one of its dominant benefits of rosemary is in improving energy levels, memory and concentration. Rosemary is a great 3. Prevents Skin Infection mental stimulant that boosts focus, concentration, memory and Studies also confirm that the medicinal, antioxidant and antimental awareness. Being an excellent brain and nerve tonic, it is inflammatory properties of rosemary essential oil make it often used by students during exams. Studies also confirm that it beneficial for also treating chronic skin conditions such as is also a mood enhancer and hence, is a good remedy for tension, dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis. Its anti-inflammatory properties anxiety, fatigue, depression and forgetfulness. Inhaling this oil are useful in reducing the swelling and puffiness of the skin as rests your tired brain and can ward off lethargy, while stimulating well as healing burns. and improving productivity.

1. Energy, mind and memory

HAIR BENEFITS OF ROSEMARY OIL A study was conducted out of Meikai University, School of Dentistry in Japan that interestingly evaluated how five minutes of combining rosemary and lavender aromatherapy affected the salivary cortisol levels (the “stress” hormone) of 22 healthy volunteers. Upon observing that both essential oils enhance free radical scavenging activity, they also discovered that both greatly reduced cortisol levels, which protects the body from chronic disease due to oxidative stress.

We couldn't be promoting the benefits of rosemary oil without mentioning its benefits for hair. By encouraging cell division and dilating the blood vessels, rosemary oil stimulates the hair follicles, thus enabling hair to grow stronger and longer.

Besides being a stimulant for the roots and the scalp, rosemary oil is also known for its hair darkening properties. It you have hints of grey in your hair, you can massage it with rosemary essential 2. Boosts The Immune System oil. This will gently and softly darken your hair without the side Rosemary essential oil stimulates the activity of antioxidants, effects of harsh chemicals. which are powerful weapons for fighting infection and disease. This oil is often used or inhaled in aromatherapy sessions to Rosemary oil is also beneficial for a dry and flaky scalp and may increase the strength of the immune system. It also helps combat prevent premature baldness. Regular massage with this oil diseases caused by free radicals such as cancer and heart disease. nourishes your scalp and helps remove dandruff. In fact, regular use of rosemary oil can act as a natural conditioner to make the 3. Treatment Of Respiratory Problems hair softer and more manageable. The aroma of rosemary oil has proven to be effective in relieving throat congestion and hence, it is used in the treatment of allergies, colds, sore throats and flu. It can treat respiratory CONTRAINDICATIONS Rosemary essential oil is a relatively safe oil to use, however there infections, thanks to its antiseptic qualities. Being an are a few contra-indications that you should note. It is strongly antispasmodic, it is used in the treatment of bronchial asthma. recommended to avoid its use with pregnancy or breastfeeding women. In pregnancy it can affect the foetus and lead to 4. Relieves Pain The healing quality of rosemary oil also is useful in treating miscarriage. It should also not be used with on epileptic or high headaches, muscle pains, rheumatism and arthritis. Massaging blood pressure individuals. the affected area with this oil can relieve pain from sprains and joint aches due to its anti-inflammatory properties. It also helps in References: Chemistry of Natural Compounds January 2004, 40(1):28-9 stimulating blood circulation, thus relieving pain and aiding in the Psychiatry Research February 2007, 150(1):89-96 coagulation of wounds for faster healing. When used as a massage About.com Alternative Medicine oil, or diluted in the bath, it can relieve aches, cramps, pains and International Journal of Neuroscience January 2003, 113(1):15-38 spasms, stiff neck, rheumatism and arthritis. Its strong diuretic properties help in removing acid and wastes like uric acid, which increases inflammation, thus passing out the pain through urine.

THE SKIN BENEFITS OF ROSEMARY The astringent properties of rosemary essential oil make it beneficial for skincare. It contains a wide array of nutrients such as iron, calcium, vitamins and antioxidants. Thus, this oil is effective for all skin types and is used as an ingredient in skin care cleansers, soaps, face masks, toners and creams.

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aromaticmedicine

THE USE OF ESSENTIAL OILS IN AROMATIC MEDICINE – A clinical overview of various methodologies By Tina Viney IT WAS in the late 70s that I completed my first study of aromatherapy with the Micheline Arcier technique, which only served to whet my appetite to study essential oils further. Learning about aromatic chemistry allowed me to understand that there was so much more to essential oils than just making us feel uplifted of relaxed. Within each essential oil was a complex array of therapeutic constituents that where in themselves a compete formula. Seeking to maximise my knowledge I was fortunate to be given the opportunity to take part in a further training program in Aromatic Chemistry with Swiss biochemist Kurt Schnaubelt PhD. His training gave me incredible insight into how to interpret the therapeutic properties of essential oils by understanding the chemical makeup. However, the most exhilarating training that I attended was with the French physician and Aromatherapy specialist Dr Daniel Pénoël. Dr Pénoël practices aromatic medicine and his approaches where quite clinical – outside the scope of what a non-medical practitioner would be allowed to practices in Australia. However, his knowledge was so amazing and what I learnt allowed me to practice the healing aspect of aromatherapy within my own family circle with amazing results. At the time, I was living in Perth and it was my good fortune that Dr Pénoël was visiting Perth to deliver a three-day training program in Aromatic Medicine. Of all the subsequent courses that I completed it was the knowledge that I gained from his course that influenced me the most. It enabled me to understand the power and ability of essential oils to address

acute conditions when one was trained in comprehend their chemistry. In this article I want to offer a brief description of the various methodologies and how they differ and to share some of the highlights of what I learnt. Dr Pénoël explained that in the world of aromatherapy there are three schools of thought.

THE BRITISH SCHOOL OF THOUGHT Most of us in Australia when training in Aromatherapy, have been trained in the British school of thought. The British school teaches that essential oils are natural plant hormones that can benefit the body through inhalation, but can also be administered topically in a diluted blend consisting of a carrier oil usually a cold pressed such as almond, hazelnut, avocado or grape seed oil at a dilution of three per cent essential oil to carrier oil. This school of thought advocates that essential oils are too potent to be applied on the skin neat and in their concentrated form. They must be diluted and applied topically through massage for the purpose of relaxing and balancing the body. Through this methodology they gently release their therapeutic properties at a safe level.

THE GERMAN SCHOOL OF THOUGHT The German school of thought relies on the aroma of the oils, rather than direct application. They advocate that inhaling essential oils offers effective benefits and they utilise this method for relaxation and therapeutic purposes. This method relies heavily on steam inhalation and diffusers allowing the essentials oils to penetrate the body through the olfactory membranes. As we know, air inhaled through the nose passes over the olfactory membranes, where chemicals that are in the air stimulate the numerous olfactory receptor cells. The smell information passes

APJ 117

from the receptor-cell neurons to the bulbs and tracts of the first cranial nerve, which pass into the frontal lobes of the brain. In that way the essential oils enter the body through the nervous system. The German school of thought views inhaling essential oils similar to the benefit of walking in a forest with streams and brooks.

tonsillitis, using the molecule Terpinen-4-ol, which is present at about 40% concentration in Melaleuca alternifolia. Dr. Pénoël demonstrated how he puts a tiny bit of high-quality, unadulterated Tea Tree oil on his hand (on a point between the thumb and 2nd finger on top of hand, which is a special acupuncture point), and then he licks the oil off.

THE FRENCH SCHOOL OF THOUGHT

"I now have millions of billions of molecules of terpenen-4-ol which have been blended in my saliva. I bring my saliva back to my tonsils......[and I have] changed the breeding ground of the medium which exists in my throat at this infectious stage. You have changed the pH of your saliva." He went on to explain that this makes the saliva more acidic, which inhibits the growth of the infection.

The third approach is the French school, which treats essential oils as a valid form of medicine, to be used as in any other medical protocol – internally, by injection, topically (undiluted), rectally, and vaginally. As Dr Penoel said, "In my country, we've given millions and millions of clinical treatments with essential oils." It is from this medical application of essential oils that the term "Aromatic Medicine" was derived. In France, doctors trained in aromatic medicine will often prescribe essential oils in preference to antibiotics. But first, they will conduct an "aromatogram". This is a simple test involving taking a sample (e.g. a swab) of a patient's diseased area. This swab is sent away to a laboratory, and tested with a wide variety of essential oils and allopathic drugs, to see which is the most effective against the specific disease or condition.

Dr. Pénoël then described how he will swallow the Tea tree oil at this point, so that it will reach his stomach, small and large intestine to become an "aromatic healing saliva". He stated that in addition to this indirect action, the Tea tree oil also has a direct action because "the terpenen-4-ol in the Tea Tree oil also attacks the bacteria itself. It penetrates through the cell wall and membrane, into the cell wall, and destroys the bacteria."

Dr. Pénoël also discussing important oils for a first aid (emergency) kit, when he said: "The number one problem we face in our daily life in emergencies is pain. We want to find a molecule that is endowed with the capacity to stop the pain, instantly. One molecule which can achieve this is menthol (contained in Peppermint essential oil). His recommendation is that in your emergency kit you should included Mentha piperita If essential oils are the chosen treatment, the doctor will supply (Peppermint). the patient with the essential oils, and instructions on where and how to use them, and in what proportions to mix them up. This But don't use peppermint on a large area of the body. It's OK to use means that patients are more involved in preparing their own on a small area of the body. It must be used neat, exactly as it's been extracted from the plant. Use just a few drops neat, and the mixtures and remedies than in traditional allopathic medicine. pain will go away almost immediately. This is because THERAPEUTIC APPLICATIONS peppermint has a cooling action, so it blocks/inhibits the pain Dr Penoel described the differences between the three schools transmitters. After applying Peppermint oil you will suddenly very humorously, when he said: "The German system of feel the cold more. This means that although the outside aromatherapy (smell) is comparable to platonic love. You cannot temperature may be warm, your body feels as though it's had ice make babies with platonic love. The English system is like placed on it (so it has a similar effect to putting ice on pain).” flirting. You still cannot make babies. The French system of aromatherapy is like "The Full Monty", and it will make babies!” CONCLUSION At the present time there is a great deal of interest in the It was fascinating to hear Dr Penoel's strategy for fighting an therapeutic properties of essential oils. During the 2016 A5M infection using essential oils. He begins with a mix of oils where Conference Dr Joanne Samer spoke on The Power of Essential the "stronger" oils are in higher concentration. The "stronger" oils Oils and Anti-Ageing Medicine. Her approach was are those with higher percentages of phenols (such as Oregano). predominantly a blend of the English and German method. These phenols are very aggressive against many infections (viral However, it is interesting to see that several companies now are and bacterial). However, because of the potential irritation that differentiating their formulations, advocating that they only the phenols can pose to the stomach and intestines, after a week's market the highest grade of pure, unadulterated, organic essential use, Dr. Pénoël then "ramps down" the proportion of oils oils that can deliver the highest level of therapeutic constituents. containing phenols, and increases the proportion of other lessAs a practitioner, it is beneficial to know that there is now a irritating oils. growing body of evidence through scientific literature that is He explained that he may start with a mix of 70% Oregano and investigating and validating the therapeutic benefits of various 30% Melaleuca alternifolia (Tea Tree oil), and after a week move essential oils and this is one modality that is worth exploring. to 30% Oregano and 70% Melaleuca alternifolia (and continue on this mix for another couple of weeks). In his use of essential oils While the French method offers remarkable results it does fall within internally, Dr. Pénoël always includes a vegetable oil along with the scope of "medicine" and it would be illegal to use this method if the essential oil in a gel cap, because the vegetable oil helps to you are not a correctly qualified. However, undertaking studies in Aromatic chemistry can open up a potential new and effective transport the essential oil into the intestinal tract. There are many cases where essential oils are more effective than antibiotics. However, in the case where an antibiotic proves more effective, the doctor still needs to weigh up the potential sideeffects of the antibiotic (such as its long-term effects on gut flora), before deciding which treatment should be undertaken.

treatment avenue when addressing skin disorders and beyond. For

Another example given by Dr Penoel was how he works with example, check out our article on Rosemary (pages 115-116).

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APJ 118

industryreport

Reviewing the latest

GLOBAL STATISITICS IN CONSUMER TRENDS by Tina Viney Those within the industry who know me well would appreciate that I have a real passion for researching global trends, not just in advances in technologies, but also in cosmetic consumer trends. Why? Because by understanding consumer spending habits we will uncover valuable information on how to capture their trust and secure their loyalty?" AS MOST of us would be aware, the boarders that separate aesthetic and cosmetic medicine are becoming more and more blurred. However, as cosmetic formulations are also advancing so there is an emerging new threat that we need to consider â&#x20AC;&#x201C; are new product innovation trying to replace the need for consumers to seek resultsdriven outcomes for the skin and age management from salons and clinics? Let's walk though this study to investigate the answer to this question. As a visionary, I like to identify threats well before they eventuate and cause damage to me, and to those under my watch, and for me

that is the aesthetics industry. I am therefore highly committed to researching global trends to not just identify growth opportunities, but also identify the markers that determine consumer purchasing habits and trends.

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This year I invested heavily in studying several world cosmetics market reports and their forecasts. This report is part of what I presented at my lectures at the APAN Aesthetic Conferences. I know quite a few of you wanted my notes. This is just a summary of the trend section. Please feel free to use it in your planning and map out how you can take advantage of this information.

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Research is a very expensive business and for accurate data I seek out world leading reports and organisations such as: ! Allied Market Research ! Cosmetic Design ! NPD Group ! Nielsen ! Kline ! PUBMed Gleaning these reports, they all confirm that the cosmetic market is expected to reach $390.07 billion globally by 2020. Over the past decade there has been a robust growth in global cosmetics market across different product segments and demographics. Cosmetics are expected to garner sales growth at a Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 3.7%. However, one particular segment will experience a significantly higher growth of 15% and it is this one that we need to pay attention to and the possibilities it will bring in helping salons and clinics to grow. For the purpose of this report I have identified 13 key trends which I will share with you. Understanding these changes will allow you to change your dialogue when communicating with your clients to reflect the new consumer-driven mind-set and what they have come to value and appreciate. 1. The new anti-pollution actives While cosmetics offer a level of environmental protection we know that gases (e.g. exhaust and toxic fumes) and chemicals have the ability to permeate the skin, playing havoc with free radical damage. New research is confirming that city dwellers who are exposed to a great deal more fumes are exhibiting advanced skin ageing. Innovative manufacturers are now identifying ingredients that are designed to protect the skin at this specific level, making the antipollution actives a must-have newcomer to the cosmetic industry. You don't need to look far. In this issue of APJ check out the Product Innovation section for Bioelements' new product launch Remineralist (page 43), developed to mitigate exactly this concern. 2. The "green beauty" and eco-chic Consumers today are very concerned about their health and safety and are more discerning and curious about the ingredients that their products contain. Magical, secret ingredients are no longer trusted. With more advanced delivery systems, products can now penetrate to the stratum germinativum â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the junction between the epidermis and the dermis. Once a substance can overcome that barrier it has the potential to enter the blood stream. As we know, the dermis is full of blood vessels. The issue of toxicity is very much on their radar. We can expect to see the use of more natural ingredients featuring strongly in skincare products that can be perceived as "safer". The appeal for green, eco-chic, environmentally sustainable ingredients will continue to grow and formulators are taking note. We will see the use of palm oil as well as other questionable ingredients virtually eliminated from future formulations. We will also see the rise of more sophisticated ingredients traditionally found in cosmeceuticals that will become commonplace in both over the counter brands, as well readily available through online purchases. 3. Biotechnology Advances in biotechnology are benefiting suppliers and manufacturers across categories in dynamic new ways as they identify ways to allow natural ingredients to achieve better skin penetration through sophisticated carriers. With these advances, natural products have greater ability to penetrate the skin and deliver their benefits where they can improve skin quality, and not just sit on the surface providing only environmental protection. They can now rival performance products.

4. Bio-identical and biomimetic ingredients Because of their compatibility to human skin with less chance of reaction, we will also experience major growth in the concept of biomimetic principles in product formulators. In Australia we have Dr Spiller, distributed by Omniderm ,whose formulations are based purely on biomimetic principles, not just with a few ingredients, but throughout the complete skincare range. 5. New actives that enhance cell-to-cell communication and accelerate cell turnover and skin rejuvenation Previously this technology was only utilised by the prestige brands, however they will now become commonplace as manufacturers are competing for a major share of the consumer market that wants more from their skincare. 6. Probiotics We are all familiar with the benefits of pre and probiotics for gut health. It was once believed there were approximately 400 strands of probiotics with benefits for different concerns. However, scientists are now discovering there are over 2000 stands and some of them are identified to provide a positive benefit in protecting problematic skin from microbial contamination. As new information comes to light we will see probiotics featured as a novel skincare ingredient active. 7. Microbeading elimination Plastic microbeads that are often present in exfoliating products that are not biodegradable have been identified to contribute to pollution of waterways. As a result they will be completely eliminated from many consumer products. Woolworths and Coles are also joining in the stand as also big multinationals are phasing out plastic microbeads in personal care products. 8. Sensorial factor We will see the return of the "sensorial factor" in skincare formulations as a growing trend. This is progressing and piggybacking on the wellbeing trend. Improved texture, feel and sensorial appeal, as well as the return of aromatics in skincare formulations that are natural and pure, will start to feature strongly in skincare products. Studies that are driving this trend confirm that if a product also has a sensorial appeal it is used more systematically by consumers. Consistent use is also driving repeat sales, which is good for business. The sensorial factor is also influencing packaging design and manufacturing and is all part of the allure for consumer purchasing. 9. Pore refining ingredients While in the past the notion that a product could "close" or refine pores was considered a fallacy, new advances in technology are promising pore-refining capabilities as now possible. 10. Multifunction anti-ageing formulations We are all familiar with the BB and CC creams. This trend will spill over to not just cosmetics, but also skincare brands. Whether this trend is going to be just a gimmick, and whether one skincare product can produce multiple benefits with substantial capabilities for skin improvement, we will have to see. However, it is a trend that we will start to see emerging. This is one that men love. They prefer simplicity â&#x20AC;&#x201C; one product that can do as much as possible. 11. The gender divide The male client has now been identified as the new emerging trend. In this issue of APJ we have featured an interview with Stephen Handisides to expound on this new global trend and how businesses can best prepare to capture this market segment growth (pages 5253). Men no longer want to borrow products from their partners; they want their own brands and their own treatment segment that is customised to meet their growing needs to look better, more modern and more dynamic.

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12. Second Skin A “revolutionary” skin-conforming polymer called XPL, developed by researchers at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and Harvard, has the ability to replicate the mechanical properties of youthful skin, while reducing the appearance of wrinkles and undereye bagging. We believe that this innovation will open up amazing new capabilities, not just for anti-ageing purposes to rival injectables, but also utilised to provide solutions for skin ailments such as eczema and dermatitis. See page 48 for further information. 13. Prestige segment We now come to one very important trend – the high-performing prestige product segment. These formulations often have a stronger focus on achieving more advanced results in skin rejuvenation, strong antioxidant delivery, visible improvement in skin tone and elasticity, skin clarity, pigmentation reduction and significant improvement in hydration levels to achieve excellent anti-ageing benefits. Understandably, these are more expensive products. Despite this, compared to the mass products that are achieving between 2-3 per cent growth in consumer demand, the prestige category is experiencing 10-15% growth. Consumers are becoming more savvy in their expectations of skincare potential and are prepared to pay more if they can achieve better results. The outcome of this finding has alerted manufacturers to the benefit of investing in prestige and higher-performing ingredients and including them into their product range. We will start to see department store brands mirroring the claims of cosmeceuticals and this is where we need to be one step ahead of this trend. HOW CAN WE PREPARE TO STAY RELEVANT TO CONSUMERS? As professionals, our first priority is to advocate and work with ingredients that are considered the gold standard – ingredients that are backed by solid scientific evidence for their performance, integrity and efficacy. This is a very important issue and should be part of our promise to our client and patients as we will also see featured gimmicky ingredients that have no scientific backing. Our point of difference should be that we only work with evidence-based ingredients. These include: Retinol or Vitamin A, Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, Co Enzyme Q10, both synthetic peptides as well as naturally-derived such as marine peptide, minerals such as zinc, magnesium, MSM. There is also emerging research on several natural ingredients such as resveratrol, licorice extract, Gotu Kola (Centella asiatica), just to name a few. As a professional you also need to understand your formulation chemistry. Look at where the ingredients. Where are they placed on

the ingredient list? Identify the percentage of active ingredients in the formula. What delivery system has been used in the product to ensure good penetration to the target tissue? Does the product confirm standardisation of the active ingredients – in other words is there a guarantee that the end product has the percentage level of active that is stated with? Two products could have the same ingredients, yet they can offer substantial different results depending on all the above factors. We need to understand our cosmetic chemistry in order to provide expert advice as to how we select the products we use and provide evidence on how they are superior in their ability to deliver results. Furthermore, when we provide our services, we should proceed with a through professional skin evaluation to identify origin, extent of the skin problem and any contributing underlying factors to the condition and address these in our treatment objectives and protocols. How do we determine stress-related aggravations and what strategies do we use to mitigate them? What technologies and techniques do we use to further activate cellular activity, address underlying inflammation and minimise the impact of toxicity and stress? These considerations must be clearly articulated to our clients to secure their trust in our professional recommendations. What professional bodies have reviewed your qualifications and validate your cretentials? All these factors should allow us to achieve a competitive advantage and assist us in securing the confidence and recognition of our clients and patients – to get in front of these new consumer advances and hold our position as the trusted professionals they need to turn to for advice, treatments and products. Reviewing the summary analysis of the global cosmetic size and forecast, and comparing it to 2014, there is definitely an increase in the Prestige category, while the graft for men’s cosmetics has also experienced an increase. Haircare is also experience growth particularly in the antiageing haircare segment with the new trend embracing the use of botanicals promising higher antioxidant benefits, stimulating hair growth, while improving hair volume and shine. Haircare is also experience a “green” trend with the increase in natural oils and herbal aromatics replacing artificial fragrances. An interesting observation under Restraints identified “Advanced Beauty Treatments” as a threat to the retail cosmetic market. It’s official - we are now a theat to them. Let’s keep it that way. Please feel free to use this information when planning your business strategies. If you require further assistance APAN provides consultative services to help businesses grow. Phone 07 5593 0360.

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insurancematters

ASK THE INSURANCE GURU RISK is something that can cause a great deal of stress for any business owner and it is something that businesses seek to minimise at all costs. But what is risk - how is it defined and how does it translate in the area of insurance protection? In this article Suzanne Sparrow-Crisp shares some of her knowledge and wisdom on the issue of risk and advises on how to best manage risk as a business owner.

APJ Q1: In terms of insurance how would you define risk and how can a business prepare to insure they are adequately covered when seeking a quote? Generally speaking we all have some understanding of the meaning of the word 'risk'. As children we are taught to avoid risks that can get us into trouble, so let's take a closer look at risk and its implications. In fact we all take risks everyday quite happily. We do things knowingly that there is a risk involved. For example, we know that there is a risk involved in driving a car, or riding a bike, or going on a skiing holiday. We accept the level of risk because in our minds, although the potential consequences can be death or serious injury, we think that if we are careful, the chances of something dreadful happening are very low. When we evaluate a risk, we usually take into account two factors â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the probability of something happening that we don't want, and the consequences if it does. So whether we choose to accept or decline a risk depends on the mix of two factors probability and consequence. Identifying, evaluating and understanding risks is a very important aspect of business management. Businesses can also suffer dreadful consequences if risks are not appropriately managed. It is therefore useful to think of risks as falling into two categories: Risk of harm Risk of detriment The risk of harm is the type of risk that we mostly think about. In our industry the word harm is used in relation to harming someone e.g. burning or mistreating a client, mishap in a treatment plan or an accident, such as slipping on a mat or wet floor. The risk of detriment does not involve injury to something living. It generally means some form of economic loss, which might indeed include a valuation of harm to living things, but which also includes damage of a much wider kind, for example, the breakdown of an equipment, a fire, theft or break-in causing loss of important equipment or products. It may also be as a result of a split of the organisation as a result of the directors being unable to work together, or it may mean a team member leaving the business and bringing Fair Work claim into the situation. As a salon or clinic owner you are expected to be conversant in Risk Management practices, to identify and manage risks so that the probability of harm or detriment occurrence is less and the consequences of risk are reduced. This is why it is important that your insurance broker understands your business so that they can assist you evaluate and minimising your risk as this will result in minimal cost to your business in the event a claim arises.

Owning and operating your own business is a risky business, and it is therefore mandatory for business owners to have a good understanding of the concept of risk and to engage in risk management.

APJ Q2: What advice would you give a business owner who wants to keep their insurance premier as cost-effective as possible? How can a business protect themselves from the policy becoming null and void? First of all if you are a current member of APAN you can request your special member's discounted rate for your insurance with The Sparrow Group as we are a strategic partner with APAN. On the other hand the issues that determines your insurance rate is based on the level of risk that the business presents. For example, if services being provided include skin needling, laser, IPL, tattoo removal, cosmetic tattooing or injectables, these procedures would be classified as higher risk services, compared to basic beauty services, and for that reason you can expect your premier to reflect those risks. The other factor that determines your premium is the size of the business and the number of staff you have. The larger the business the greater the risk as you will be servicing a greater number of clients and the potential for risk will therefore be higher. The other issue you need to ensure is that every procedure that you offer must be delivered by a qualified professional. If your insurance policy does not question the qualifications of the practitioners this should ring alarm bells. The reason is that in the event of a claim all insurance companies will request evidence that the practitioner was qualified to deliver that treatment. If you cannot provide evidence of this your insurance may be deemed null and void and any cover rejected. It is therefore prudent for every business owner to ensure that all procedures are only provided by a qualified professional. Qualifications have their merits and are very important to insurance companies as well. Because it is not uncommon for many within this industry to be delivering treatments without qualifications we are finding more and more that many insurance companies are refusing to provide cover for the higher risk services. Another important issue is to ensure that you have appropriate policies and procedures in place for all your treatments. These should aim for safety, efficacy and to ensure appropriate risk management.

Suzanne Sparrow-Crisp is the Managing Director of The Sparrow Group - a Strategic Alliance Partner and APAN's preferred insurance broker. If you have a question please email it to us at info@apanetwork.com and mark the heading INSURANCE. We will select the question which is most in demand and forward it to Suzanne to address your concerns.

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