APJ Vol 30 2016

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Spring Volume 30. 2016

Spring Issue Volume 30.

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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9 14-16 18-22 50-53 64-65 72-74 93 105

Heart-2-Heart Think Pink update Aesthetic Industry Bulletin Gippsland Cosmetic Laser Clinic - An inspirational Success Story Product Innovations Raising the Standards for Cosmetic Tattooing A Eulogy to an Amazing Young and Talented Man BUPA Corporate Cover that looks after your Health and Wellbeing

REGULATIONS, EDUCATION & TRAINING 46-49 68-69 75 76-77 86 88-89

Training Imperative for the Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetics Pigment Safety Review CTARP Registration How to utilise your skin analysis results to achieve Superior Treatment Outcomes Why the need for Higher Recognition and the launch of ARAP Static Magnetic Fields, Qi-Energy and the new wave in Anti-Ageing Skin Rejuvenation and Wellness.

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 34-37

Reviewing classifications and claims in Cosmetic Formulations - A regulatory perspective 80-83 Scientific News 90-92 How Peptides can assist in Recovery and Rejuvenation 94-95 Australia's own Vitamin C powerhouse - Kakadu Plum 96-98 Keeping the Heart Happy 100-104 Scientific News 114-116 Reviewing the Sugar-Free option of Stevia 117-119 Why Marigold is making such a comeback in Skincare and Wellness 120-121 The Anti-Ageing Effects of Probiotics in Skin Health BUSINESS AND PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 24 42 58-60 78-83 112-113 122

How to change words into Sales The Art and Value of blogging Designer Eyebrow Masterclass Tips for Better Business Changes to Business Record Keeping Ask the Insurance Guru

SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES

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APAN Aesthetic Conference Perth APAN Cosmetic Tattoo Education - Advanced Winged Eyeliner Techniques Made Easy 54-56 APAN Aesthetic Conference Brisbane 106-108 APAN Sydney Conference Report 110 124

2016 MyFaceMy Body Awards Australasia - The Oscars of Aesthetics APAN Aesthetic Conference Perth 2016

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EDITOR’SNOTE

Each day when I scroll through my phone I find that amid the various posts, pins or tweets invariably I am always draw to inspiration quotes, as I am sure many of you do too. It is true that business owners shoulder a great deal of responsibilities, not just with their own families, but also in developing and nurturing their staff as well as their clients.

With so much sad news in the world it is prudent that we guard our thoughts and our emotions. In fact many business development experts suggest that we make a habit of avoiding the negativity of daily news as it can have a detrimental effect on our mood and energy levels. This is because the thoughts we feed on ultimately influence our behaviour, but for the business person the challenge is that they also affect our decision-making, and this has the potential to make or break us.

Experts tells us that negative thinking is an obstacle to self-change. Any change feels like a big deal. When in a negative frame of mind you can't see the small steps, and you don't have the energy to take big steps, therefore you feel stuck.

All-or-nothing thinking is the most common type of negative thinking, and is the main cause of many problems, including anxiety, depression and addictions. All-or-nothing thinking leads to anxiety because you think that any mistake is a failure, which may expose you to criticism or judgement. Therefore you don't give yourself permission to relax and consider your full options when making decisions. All-or-nothing thinking can also lead to addiction because anxiety or depression feels so uncomfortable that you may turn to alcohol or other escapes. Therefore choosing to focus of positive thoughts, good news and inspirational thoughts will allow you not to just think more positively, but also make better decisions.

In a constantly changing world, we cannot afford to stay static. We need to continually evaluate our products and services and the messages we present to others in our professional and business environments. Consumers that walk in our doors carry their own pressures and look to us not just for a quick fix to their skin, but also value positive touch and encouraging human interaction.

One way to ensure you remain confident in both professional and psychological support that you offer others is to start with yourself. Immerse yourself in good education, research findings and new advances that will empower you to enrich your own life and be a force for good for others as well. This is why in APJ Journal we make sure we provide you with a balance of good reading material that will improve your knowledge, expose you to new advances and also valuable information on issues of better health and wellness. Today's consumer wants everything from you. They don't just want you to help them with their skin they also value your advice on other issues that can help them cope better and support their confidence and wellbeing.

In this issue of APJ we profile a good mix of educational and inspiration articles to support and benefit you. As we are entering a new season of spring, prepare for positive change and stay happy and well. Remember, you are a valuable human being to whom others turn to for support and help. Love life and living and stay well.

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APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

AESTHETIC

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Editor Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

Welcome to APJ

Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Shop7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-9812 Print Post Approved [100000257]

Circulation 6900

FRONT COVER AUSTRALASIAN COLLEGE OF HEALTH AND WELLNESS Phone: 02 8587 8888 Email: enquiries@tac.edu.au www.tachw.edu.au For further information see pages 10-11 The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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Heart-to-Heart A message from the President and CEO Looking at my calendar I realised how fast this year is flying and by the time you get this journal we will already be well into September.

This year, reaching my 50-year milestone in this industry has made me reflect on all the wonderful people I have met and the wealth of knowledge I have gained, not just about the skin, but also on the human body and the human condition. I have enjoyed exploring the limitless possibilities that this industry can offer us and there is still much more to come, as the industry moves to its next phase with a renewed identity.

As many of you would know APAN has a strategic alliance with other professional bodies, including medical societies and in particular, with the Australasian Academy of Anti-ageing Medicine (A5M). Each year we conduct three conferences in various States, however, I also attend several others as I am committed to continually expanding my own knowledge. I love investigating new advances and exploring ways to enrich our industry with innovative practices and professional alliances that can advance the services our members are providing their clients and patients.

Without a shadow of a doubt we are seeing the professional borders between medical and aesthetics becoming more and more blurred. As the number of doctors entering the aesthetics and cosmetic medical field continue to grow this raises the important question – is there a risk that we could lose the right to practice certain procedures to the medical profession? The answer to this concern is most certainly yes.

As science discovers ways to instigate changes to the skin and body through new technologies, a larger part of our procedures are now moving towards becoming healthcare practices and not just cosmetic. When we are targeting changes within the dermis, or aiming to improve body shape by shifting localised fat, cellulite and instigating physiological changes within the body, we are moving into areas that require protocols to mitigate risk and ensure safety of the client or patient. Such activities can therefore rightfully be classified as healthcare.

How will these changes impact on our professional scope of practice? I have spoken to many individuals who assure me that they can perform certain procedures safely and even better than some doctors. This may be the case, however, we also need to

consider how Health Departments and regulatory bodies view these changes. Furthermore, as our procedures evolve more towards the direction of healthcare how are these impacting our professional identity? Should it be updated to more accurately reflect what we do? Does this identity need to be supported with appropriate qualifications that State Health Departments and regulatory bodies will recognise and allow us to move into these new areas of practice with their support? If not, will they put restrictions on what we can practice?

SCOPE OF PRACTICE Scope of practice, or professional care defines the range of responsibility and practice guidelines that determine the boundaries within which a practitioner is permitted to deliver certain procedures. This is very much a healthcare term that we need to become familiar with as it will most definitely impact our future rights to practice what we do.

Currently, procedures that require the use of anaesthetics or the use of any drugs are restricted for use by a healthcare provider only, (see pages 46-49 on an article on this topic). Having explored the legislative literature, guidelines and spoken to several Government Health Ministers and heads of Health Departments the only way that a non-medical professional can even be considered to be allowed to use anaesthetic, or for that matter any drug, will be strictly based on qualifications as determined by an Industry Registration Body – in the case of doctors this is the Australian Health Practitioner Regulation Agency (AHPRA). At this point the aesthetics industry does not have such a structure that can determine qualification requirements and scope of practice and this is something that needs to happen as a matter of urgency.

MOVING TOWARDS AN INDUSTRY REGISTRATION BOARD Over the past 12-24 months APAN has shifted much of its focus and activities to the area of updating industry standards and working towards supporting regulations that best serve the industry. This is a difficult, costly and time consuming focus for us, however a necessary one. There is definitely a gap in this area and we believe that if we do not step into this role our industry can expect to lose the rights to practice certain procedures in the not-too-distant future.

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If you have built castles in the air, your work need not be lost; that is where they should be.

Now put the foundations under them.

Henry David Thoreau (1817- 1862) WHERE DO WE START

www.apanetwork.com and find the ARAP banner on the top

As regulations are based on reliable skills and knowledge the issue of qualifications is surfacing as the most reliable benchmark that we can secure the future of our industry. This is why we launched APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner (ARAP) and trademarked it.

right. Full details are available there for you to register. It is in your hands to help us achieve a more secure future for you and the valuable practices that you want us to retain for you.

Members are urged to apply for this registration. The cost is just $110 for two years. There are now five categories based on presented qualifications of the applicant. For details please visit our website www.apanetwork.com to determine the eligibility criteria for the various categories, which are as follows:

! APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER ! APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER ! APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER ! APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER

®

Let's continue to make this year a great success. As an industry body we take your needs seriously and whatever we develop, is strictly for your benefit and highest good.

Stay connect with us and let's work together for on-going success and a stronger and more secure future.

Clinician

® ®

Associate Master Educator APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER® Educator ®

!

Successful applicants will be included on a National Register and consumers will be encourage to seek them out as professionals with validated industry credentials as determined by an industry peek body. This will mark the beginning of our pathway towards a new professional identity supported by recognised qualifications and credentials. The ultimate objective of this initiative is to establish the foundation for an Australian Aesthetics Registration Board.

WHY YOUR CONTRIBUTION IS IMPORTANT? As an industry professional you endeavour to keep up-to-date with your skills and knowledge. This is important to your clients and business.

However, you also have an important role to play in securing the future of your profession and how it will be identified.

Where will your scope of practice sit within the regulatory framework? By choosing to be registered through ARAP you are contributing and supporting the important process towards this next steps. We urge the industry to take this step seriously, as it is the first step towards helping us secure the future scope of practice of aesthetic practitioners.

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WHAT IS NEEDED FOR THE NEXT STEP: 1. A substantial number of practitioners registered with ARAP 2. Evidence of qualifications when determining eligibility criteria

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I urge you all to consider supporting us in our efforts. This is a very important move for the industry.

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You can phone me if you wish to discuss this further on 07 55930 360.

Alternatively, visit the APAN website:

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MHM

new age of aesthetics practice DON’T BE LEFT BEHIND! The Australasian College of Health and Wellness (TACHW) is dedicated to improving the

potential clinical aestheticians interested in

advanced dermal therapy and technologically

Associate Degree of Dermal Therapies and the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics). This elevated level of scholarly specialists has recently demanded an industry association to formally recognise practitioners

revenue and increased margins resulting from this trend is a great opportunity for TACHW. Consequently and as a result of an emerging This Strategic Business Plan examines strategic vision for the college. It outlines the

industry.

Australasian College of Health and Wellness WWW TACHW EDU AU s #!,, ./7 s ENQUIRIES TAC EDU AU s "UILDING "AY 3TREET #NR 7ENTWORTH 0ARK 2OAD ',%"%

CRYOMED AESTHETICS is the leading supplier of multi-platform IPL systems. The CryoBroadlight 2 and the Etherea open up a world of infinite IPL treatment possibilities.

Cryomed Aesthetics offers a range of top-of-the-line aesthetic devices, clinical education and training and provides speedy technical support. Each Cryomed device is registered with the TGA. Cryomed is the number one choice for all your aesthetic needs.

CryoBroadlight 2 The CryoBroadlight 2 (CBL 2) offers a flexible multi-application platform for the treatment of over 11 different skin conditions, as well as for hair removal. The CBL 2 was created with both the physician and patient in mind. It allows procedures to be easily performed, enabling you to treat more conditions and achieve superior treatment outcomes.

A unique all-in-one handpiece The CBL 2 handpiece is designed with six slide-in digital filters tailored to each address the specific condition being treated. Integrated with the device is a computer-enabled filter recognition for targeted cooling, automatically setting the right temperature for the right treatment. With the CBL 2 handpiece, you can change digital filters in seconds instead of attaching a whole new handpiece.

Six Cut-Off Filters 430nm, 515nm, 560nm, 585nm, 640nm & 700nm.

The CBL 2 is equipped with easy-to-slide in and out cut-off filters that minimise and reduce treatment time associated with having to change handpieces. The CBL 2 handpiece saves not only treatment time and storage space, but is also extremely cost efficient because there is no need to purchase multiple handpieces.

Multi Spot Tips The CBL 2 is equipt with multi spott tips 8mm round and d 12x12mm square, this feature allows you to spot treat any area of the face easily and effectively.

Sapphire Cooling The CBL2 has a unique skin cooling system ystem that maintains the cooling temperature of the int to contact point provide the most comfortable and safe operation possible. Sapphire cooling minimises the temperature of the target tissue during treatment to reduce the risk of side effects.

Genesis Pulse for pain-free collagen remodelling CBL 2's Genesis pulse increases sub-dermal heat by stimulating collagen, while it minimises thermal damage to the untargeted skin based on the high quality square pulse technology. Therefore, CBL's Genesis pulse not only delivers superior comfort during treatment, but also ensures that the clinician will get the treatment results he or she expect while avoiding any unwanted side effects.

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Fast Firing Rate Operation time is important for clinics because faster treatment times provide a better patient experience and enable physicians to achieve better productivity and a higher patient throughput.

Compared to other IPL systems on the market, the CBL offers very rapid repetition rates enabling faster treatment times to optimise treatment outcomes.

Applications for use: ! Acne ! Vascular Lesions ! Melasma and pigmented lesions ! Large Pores ! Telangiectasia ! Photo-rejuvenation ! Rosacea ! Solar Lentigines ! Dermal Pigmented Lesions ! Regenerated by Genesis ! Epidermal Pigmented Lesions ! Hair removal

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CRYOMED AESTHETICS launches NEW GENERATION TGA APPROVED DEVICES ETHEREA The Etherea was developed to bring to market what is the best in effective IPL and light-based based applications. Designed to meet the specific needs of doctors and patients, offering a wide variety of treatment applications including:

! ! ! ! !

Vascular lesions Pigmented lesions Superficial treatment of active acne Hair removal Skin rejuvenation

Square Wave Pulse Technology SQUARE-WAVE PULSE®technology acts differently in that it promotes a controlled and micro-processed delivery of energy. This prevents the formation of critical areas that cause unwanted side effects. Traditional IPL equipment incorporates the free discharge of energy, so that the energy being delivered at the beginning of the pulse duration is greater than that delivered at the end.

Versatilty IPL-Sq® has 5 cutting filters available in a single handpiece (400, 540, 580, 640 and 695 nm) and uses an intelligent and automatic wavelength recognition system for easy plug and-play use. It was specifically designed to meet the indications of the most sought-after treatments in clinics and practices across the globe.

Vascutips Importantly, IPL-Sq® still incorporates the acclaimed laimed VASCUTIPS, in both round and square spots, which was developed for the treatment of localised lesions and smaller, less accessible regions of the body without affecting clinical efficacy.

A Unique Technology for Various Phototypes IPL-Sq® is associated with longer pulse duration (100 ms), and still uses a safety filter at 695 nm. This means it is capable of a wide variety of treatments, even on darker skin types. It is ideal for a mixed-skin-type market making it ideal for the Australian aesthetic market.

A perfect combination of parameters Associated with the use of high-performance reflectors, the SQUARE-WAVE PULSE® technology provides pulses with high doses of energy. In practice, this ensures better results across the various treatment indications. In addition, pulses with a variable duration of 5 to 100 ms ensure the required aggressiveness for vascular treatments, while keeping the procedure safe for higher skin photo-types.

Integrated Contact Cooling Sapphire couplings are fast-cooled with five intensity levels of temperature control further increasing comfort, predictability and efficacy of the treatments.

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Speed of treatment

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IPL-Sq® has a wide spot, 40 x 12 mm application area, and a high repetition rate of up to 2 Hz for faster coverage on large treatment areas, saving you and your clients valuable time.

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Call Cryomed today 1300 346 448 or visit www.cryomed.com.au

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Exclusive Genesis Pulse

Intense Pulsed Light System

Essential-6 cut off filters Allows you to use the CBL2 for almost every application and reduce treatment times compared to other IPLs

Personalised Presets A new feature enabling users to save and adjust presets for each patient’s skin type and application

Fast Firing Rate CBL2’s rapid repetition rates enable faster treatments to optimise your clinic’s profitability

Adjustable Cooling System The CBL2 uses fully adjustable sapphire contact cooling giving you unparalleled safety

Long Life Handpiece Certified to last over 100,000 pulses 50% more than most IPLs on the market

Multi-Spot Tips An essential feature of the advanced CBL2 system allowing you to spot treat in any area of the face easily and effectively

“Designed by Experts, used by Doctors.”

Applications - Rosacea - Telangiectasias - Solar lentigines - Hair Removal - Genesis

cryomed.com.au | 1300 346 448 Exclusively Distributed in Australia & New Zealand © Copyright Cryomed Australia 2016

088CV1

- Acne - Vascular Lesions - Pigmentation - Melasma - Large Pores - Photorejuvenation

AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

! ! !

ARE YOU LOOKING FOR QUALITY STAFF?

An exciting new network and community has entered the Aesthetic space!

STAR (Specialist Training & Recruitment) is a full service business dedicated to the Plastic and Cosmetic Surgery and the Aesthetics industries. They assist medical practices, plastic surgeries and non-surgical clinics within all areas of business including: ! Having a dedicated site for employers advertising for

ULTRADERM LAUNCHES ITS INAUGURAL CONFERENCE

staff in our industry and for candidates to obtain employment in the industry Online training for candidates to get 'position ready’ Social media and blogging campaigns Practice Optimisation – from start-ups to strategic planning

S TA R u n d e r s t a n d s h o w important having the right staff is for the success of your business.

One of their goals is to minimise and streamline your recruiting processes and to find the right staff without all the hassle. They can assist in getting candidates position ready with their online training; They also offer training for employers in order to ensure continuity across their staffing and business.

Co-owners Trish Hammond and Carene Kiss have over 25 years’ experience in the Plastic, Cosmetic and Aesthetics industries. They have joined forces to ensure their expertise across all sectors is available to maximise the profitability and operations of your practice. “The industry has been starved of a dedicated space to find expert staff within the industry” explains Trish Hammond, winner of Best Blogger, Face and Body awards 2015. www.starspecialist.com can be used by: ! Employers who are looking for staff ! Employees who are looking for a new role or ! Anyone who requires specialist training in different sectors of their industry.

STAR can assist medical and non-medical business owners in employing the best staff or train existing staff to ensure that your patients enjoy great service and receive the best available care, and ultimately your bottom line.

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Ultraderm held its first two-day Conference at the Watermark Hotel in Surfers Paradise on the 19th and 20th June. It was a well attended event with many Salon Partners travelling from various States.

Ultraderm Product Knowledge was a core component of the event with complementary talks from guest speakers -

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Aesthetic Industry Experts Gay Wardle, Donna Keogh and Pam Stellema and Tax/Financial Expert Lawrie Carrozza.

Additional highlights included a new product launch “Nightshift Resurfacing Mask”, which was extremely well received and our first Ultraderm Salon Partner Awards.

Congratulations to the Ultraderm 2016 Awards winners: Salon of the Year – Carroll Cornford, Liquid Gold Beauty Ayr QLD Best Sole Operator – Kellie Cohen, Focus on Skin Mermaid Waters QLD Best New Salon – Abby Withers – Stuart, Oi Cosmetic Studio Helensvale QLD Best Regional Salon – Natalee Cook, Beauty Matters Moree NSW The Ultraderm Partner Conference will be held on the 18-19 June 2017 – Save this date.

HEAVY PENALTY FOR BOGUS QUALIFICATION A former trainer has been ordered to pay $120,000 for providing her employer with 11 bogus vocational education and training (VET) qualifications, providing another two bogus qualifications to a co-worker and submitting false qualifications to the national regulator as proof of her competency.

The Australian Skills Quality Authority (ASQA) successfully obtained declarations from the Federal Court that Synthia Dee M Restar of Beecroft, New South Wales, fabricated the qualifications in contravention of the National Vocational Education and Training Regulator Act 2011.

Between January 2012 and April 2014, Ms Restar fabricated qualifications in aged care, disability and business management in her own name and provided each to her employer as legitimate qualifications. She also provided three of the bogus qualifications to an ASQA auditor in support of an application to become a registered training organisation (RTO).

Ms Restar also fabricated two aged care qualifications for a coworker and falsely represented those qualifications to be legitimate.

ASQA Chief Commissioner Chris Robinson said the bogus qualifications were uncovered during an ASQA investigation.

“As a result of this investigation, ASQA cancelled the registration of the RTO in question and used the powers available to it to pursue Ms Restar for her wrongdoing,” Mr Robinson said.

Mr Robinson said ASQA had been building its investigative capabilities during the past 18 months.

“ASQA is determined to use the powers available to it to ensure learners are getting high-quality training and assessment that provides them with the skills that employers are looking for.

“The authority has close to 100 officers – including many with specialist investigative skills and experience – who are applying regulatory scrutiny to RTOs across Australia each and every day.

“ASQA will continue to target its resources at RTOs providing poor-quality training and seek to remove them from the sector and, where appropriate, seek criminal or civil prosecutions.”

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APAN warns all trainers – particularly those that are providing training in specialised areas such as Cosmetic Tattoo, to ensure they are using the correct terminology as required by law in Australia when issuing evidence of their training. If in doubt please contact APAN for advice to avoid any fines.

Ref: Retail and Personal Services Training Council, WA.

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A SURPRISING NEW DISCOVERY ABOUT POMEGRANATES The benefits of pomegranates, both injected and when applied as a topical ingredient in skincare are scientifically validated.

However, new research is discovering further information.

Scientists from the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (EPFL), and the company Amazentis have discovered that a molecule in pomegranates (when transformed inside the body – specifically the gut – after you eat them) enables muscle cells to protect themselves against one of the major causes of ageing.

The premise of the study, published in the journal Nature Medicine, is that with age, the cells in our bodies struggle to salvage energy-supplying mitochondria. Experts agree that the functionality of the mitochondria in a person's body can determine their lifespan. As the mitochondria become deteriorated, this affects the health of many tissues, including skin and muscles that weaken with time.

Findings show that the molecule found in pomegranates converts to something called urolithin A inside the body.

“Urolithin A is a molecule highlighted by scientists that can keep mitochondria healthy," says celebrity nutritionist Paula Simpson. "The ageing process is characterised by sluggish cellular metabolism (including the mitochondria). It is now further confirmed that dysfunctional mitochondria are the cause of accelerated ageing and chronic disease.”

Simpson adds that although this is very preliminary research and based on an animal study (clinical trials on humans are now under way), researchers can continue to look at how pomegranates may offer anti-ageing benefits, which is very interesting. "The downside to this study is the fact that certain strains of microbes must be present in the gut to convert the precursor ingredient found in pomegranates." Needless to say, if your body doesn't contain these strains you won't benefit, drawing further importance on the role of gut flora for health and wellbeing.

While researchers are continuing to investigate further, there are still many known nutritional benefits of both eating this amazing fruit or included in skincare formulations as they are a rich source of antioxidant polyphenols. Simpson further confirmed that clinical studies have shown that pomegranates, when ingested orally, may offer photo-protective, antimicrobial and collagen-stimulating properties in human skin.

CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY DEVELOPES ANTI-AGEING CHOCOLATE THAT REDUCES WRINKLES

It may seem too good to be true, but guilt-free chocolate that promises to slow down the emergence of wrinkles and sagging skin, has been developed by scientists.

'Esthechoc', the brainchild of a Cambridge University spin-off lab, claims to boost antioxidant levels and increase circulation to prevent lines and keep skin looking youthful and smooth.

Just a small 7.5g bar of anti-ageing chocolate contains the same amount of the antioxidant astaxanthin as a fillet of Alaskan salmon, and equal levels of free-

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radical fighting cocoa polyphenols as 100g of dark chocolate.

Its makers say it can change the underlying skin of a 50-60 year old into that of someone in their 20s or 30s. Tests showed that after four weeks of eating the anti-ageing chocolate every day, volunteers had less evidence of inflammation in their blood and increased blood supply to skin tissue.

Creator Dr Ivan Petyaev, a former researcher at Cambridge University, and founder of biotech firm Lycotec, said: “We're using the same antioxidant that keeps goldfish gold and flamingos pink.

“In clinical trials we saw that inflammation in the skin starting to go down and the tissues began to benefit.”

called 'Cambridge Beauty Chocolate', comes boxed as a three-week supply, individually wrapped, and will only be “We used people in their 50s and 60s and in terms of skin available in high-end retailers from next month. biomarkers we found it had brought skin back to the levels of a 20 or 30-year-old. So we've improved the skin's It is also likely to come with a hefty price tag, although its makers were unwilling to reveal the cost before its official physiology.” launch at the Global Food Innovation Summit in London “People using it claimed that their skin was better and we next month. can see that the product is working to slow down ageing.”

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/science/sciencenews/11423029/Anti-ageing-chocolate-which-reducesAs the bar contains just 38kcal its makers say it is even safe for diabetics. But 'Esthechoc' is unlikely to be available in wrinkles-developed-by-Cambridge-University-spinBritain's corner shops. The confectionery, which is also off.html

TELSTRA AWARDS FINALISTS Congratulates to APAN members Daniel and Anita Calabro, owners of Cosmetic and Laser Clinic in Gippsland, Victoria for achieving finalists in the 2016 Telstra Australian Business Awards. Their clinic was in the top six new businesses in Victoria and the top 27 new businesses in Australia.

"We are extremely proud of this achievement for many reasons," Daniel stated. "First, we are one of the only regional businesses in the collective, and second, we were the only business in the entire Australian cosmetic industry to become a finalist," he confirmed.

"The judges sought us out on the evening to let us know we came extremely close to winning, and that our quality, values and ethics strongly resonated with them –

something we have always believed is of the utmost importance in our industry," Daniel and Anita confirmed.

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Our congratulations to Anita and Daniel for this exciting news. Achieving this level of success in just three years since commencing their business is admirable and reaching this outcome against several other industries is highly commendable. We wish them both and their team all the very best for on-going success into the future.

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd Oct 16-17 Esthetique SPA International Palais des Congrès Montréal Montreal (QC) Canada T: + 450 434-4738 Fax: +450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com Oct 21-22 Aesthetic & Antiaging Medicine European Congress Palais Des Congres Paris, France T: +33 01 5683 7800 F: +33 01 5683 7805 Oct 23

APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE - PERTH Crown Perth Burswood, Perth T: 07 55930360 F: 07 55930367 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Oct 23-24 Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Broward County Convention Center Florida USA T: + 212.895.8200 F: + 212.895.8209 Nicola Le Lievre is a passionate and committed salon manager and entrepreneur. Owner of In Therapy Skin and Body in Red Hill, and a second salon in Clayfield, Brisbane, Nicola has joined as an APAN/THINK PINK SKIN & WELLNESS MONTH ambassador and is never short of ideas.

Oct 23-24 Premier Birmingham Birmingham/Jefferson Convention Center Birmingham, Alabama USA T: +1 407.265.3131 F: +1 407.265.3134

In Therapy going strong as Ambassadors of APAN/THINK PINK SKIN & WELLNESS MONTH

Immediately on receiving her kit Nicola gathered her staff team and started planning her promotional and marketing ideas to help engage her clients, while creating novel ways why they should invite their friends to join the buzz and fun that In Therapy is created.

"We want our clients to know they can not only trust us to make them feel and look amazing, but to also know that their visit to In Therapy will be a fun and celebrative experience", Nicola said.

This has been an amazing experience for both staff and clients as together we are working towards raising valuable funds for the Think Pink Living Centre.

“It is incredible," Nicola said, "how many people have either gone through breast cancer, or know someone who is going through it, or who has lost a loved one. This is an amazing opportunity to do something really worthwhile and we are delighted to support something with such a great purpose. I am so glad we took up the offer and I want to thank APAN for putting this program together," Nicola said.

Oct 24-26 Beauty World Japan West Intex, 1-5-102, Nanko-Kita, Suminoe-ku, Nanko, Osaka T: + 49 69 75 75-0 F: + 49 69 75 75-64 33 Email: beautyworld@messefrankfurst.com Nov 6-7

International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Hyatt Regency & James L. Night Center 400 South East 2nd Ave, Miami, FL T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com

Nov 8-10 in-cosmetics (personal care ingredients) BITEC, Bangkok Thailand T: +44 0 208271 2122 Email: incosasiateam@reedexpo.co.uk Nov 16-18 Cosmoprof ASIA Convention & Exhibition Centre Hong Kong T: +852-2827 6211 F: +852-3749 7345 E-mail:joanne.fai@ubm.com

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APJ 22

Known for cruelty free beauty products that inspire and perform

businesstips

HOW TO CHANGE WORDS INTO SALES

by Tina Viney We would all agree that in order to gain new clients, or to retain our existing clients we need to maintain constant and regular communication with them.

Regardless as to whether we communicate by emails, Facebook posts, or other social-medial platforms, we will need to use words effectively to stir their emotions and get them to respond by engaging with us.

There is no doubt that writing is a skill. As a writer I am constantly reminded that the rules of writing are also changing and evolving. While my interaction with the Government or regulatory bodies can be on a more technical or formal basis, my language needs to change when speaking to the industry, and even more so when speaking to the public.

This can be quite a challenge for me because I am so comfortable with technical terms, but I need to constantly remind myself to focus on whom I am speaking to and choose words that will make it easy for them to understand me. In this article I want to share with you how social media is changing our dialogue and offer you seven key points to remember when using words to improve sales.

same lighting and should not be touched up to look better. This would make them both deceptive advertising, under the Trade Practices Act and unethical conduct, under your APAN Code of Ethics.

2. CUT THE JARGON: After writing your message, step back and ask yourself – if I was not a qualified therapist would I understand what has just been said to me? If you are not sure, go back and simplify what you have written – don't be afraid to dumb-it-down.

3. USE POWERFUL HEADLINES: Especially when you have a long text, break it up with powerful and inviting headlines that In recent years there are two major changes that have been will create curiosity for the reader to keep reading. strongly influenced by social-media and by understanding these it 4. BENEFITS NOT FEATURES: You may be impressed can help us communicate more effectively. with the wonderful features of your products or treatments, and Just consider the following – when you are going through your while these may be something you are proud of, what will make social-media posts, how much time do you spend on each one? your reader decide to take you up on your offer is what benefits Usually, you skim through them and move rapidly until you find they can expect to gain from that product or treatment. Use bullet something of interest, and then spend a brief time checking the points to help them connect the dots - e.g. this product will help information provided. If it interests you, you continue reading, you lose weight, sleep better, have more energy, or for the skin, it but if it gets too long, you may choose to leave the page. Did you might help improve skin clarity, brightness and improve texture know that the average attention span on social media is only five and tone. minutes? Neil Vidyarthi, a social-media manager wrote a fascinating article entitled How Social Media is Ruining Our 5. SPEAK THEIR LANGUAGE: To help you determine the Minds. In his article he stated that over the course of the past 10 language to use – use terms that you know they would use – for years the average attention span has dropped from 12 minutes to a example, instead of saying a product will regenerate the cells, say it will help plump up the skin and make it look more youthful. staggeringly short five minutes.

Instead of saying it will improve luminosity, say it will brighten The second change that is detected is that our language has and lighten your complexion. become simpler. We communicate just as we speak. This observation is also explained by industry blogger Trish 6. STAY FOCUSED ON YOUR MESSAGE: Don't say too much and confuse people about what you are about. If you have Hammond in her article on blogging in this journal. lots to say, consider breaking it up in different posts with If you regularly write on social media for the purpose of individual messages. improving client engagement and sales here are seven basic rules that may be helpful in achieving the best results from your efforts: 7. BE EMOTIONAL: Don't be afraid to be emotional.

Emotions stir up energy and motivation to engage. For example, 1. SHOW HOW, DON'T JUST TELL: Telling someone that you instead of saying our treatments will help transform your skin, are the best is so passe. It doesn't work anymore. If you want to add some emotion, our treatments are designed to help transform convince clients that what you offer provides results don't just tell your skin and make you feel more confident and blissful. them - provide evidence and show them. Before and after photos can be useful for this because you are not just using words, but Yes indeed the times are changing and effective communication also visuals so you are stimulating two sensors, not just one. requires that we keep things simple – at least with social media if However, make sure that you have permission to use the images you want engagement. The good news is that anyone can manage and that they are truthful. Before and after shots should utilise the to do this, even if you are not an expert writer.

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APJ 24

Cosmetic Tattoo basic & advanced training Microblading Training Patented Tattoo removal system Cutting edge technology equipment Worlds first organic synthetic pigments No iron oxide MESO Concept & cryotherapy

START A SUCCESSFUL COSMETIC TATTOO FUTURE WITH HOLO ACADEMY!

Our unique training and advanced education programs broaden and deepen your professional knowledge. The Holo Academy trainers shape your skills with the use of intelligent SwissColorÂŽ equipment,certified hygienic modules and world first organic synthetic high quality pigments.

Swiss Color OS pigments are free from iron oxides, AZO, heavy metals, PAK, NDELA and nickel! 40 OS pigments for brows, lips, areola and camouflage.

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holo A C A D E M Y

companyprofile Celebrating another qualification milestone from a

HAPPY GRADUATE The hallmark of good training is where it leads you to and how it improves your career and job prospects, and this was definitely the case for Kate Schilling from Kirwan, country Queensland who recently completed another qualification with Beauty Therapy Training Australia (BTTA).

It was only 12 months prior that she graduated with SIB70110 Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction, but Kate wanted to expand her scope of practice to include skin rejuvenation, vascular, pigmentation and the very popular tattoo removal and so she enrolled to complete the NAT10038 Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies.

Kate had some exciting news to share with us. As a result of gaining her second qualification she was able to secure a position with Dr Richard Keyes at SKINWORX Skin, Cosmetic and Wellness Centre in Townsville.

"I thoroughly enjoyed my training with BTTA," Kate said. "I was trained by two amazing teachers – Angie Todd and Maree Baggaley. Both were incredible, but very different, so I was able to benefit from a broad and more diverse set of strength.

"The other thing that I found valuable was the fact that I trained on several different devices - IPL and lasers, and this gave me in-depth knowledge and understanding on these amazing technologies. This was incredibly useful because when I was employed with SKINWORX I had to work on different devices again, however, as my training covered different equipment I was quickly able to adapt and orientate myself to their devices. I am excited that my journey in mastering new techniques is ongoing and I understand that this is only the beginning of my learning experience.

"I am so amazed that people can be trained over 2-3 days and feel they are ready to work on clients. This is so risky. My training was comprehensive and thorough, both theoretical as well as the hands-on practical component were extensive. I not only gained my qualification, I also secured my licences to immediately operate in Queensland.

Angie Todd and Maree Baggaley “This qualification offered me in-depth knowledge and taught me how to avoid operator error, risk management and how to identify dangers. The training then took me further in understanding how to work with the various technologies to expand my scope of treatment outcomes and to how to gain consistent and reliable results. "” I believe that I was able to secure my new position as a result of my thorough training and qualifications and I can look forward to an amazing career. The level of training I received has allowed me to work with doctors and nurses with a degree of confidence that I could not have achieved without this level of training.

“Qualifications is the way to the future and I am so glad I was able to train with BTTA to a high standard of excellence. I would recommend them to anyone."

Thank you to Angie and Maree for your support and dedication.

Angie Smith and Maree Baggaley are accredited trainers offering government-approved qualifications. They are also APAN ARAP Master Educators - an industry registration recognising the confirmed credentials.

Kate Schilling

If you would like to speak to Beauty Therapy Training Australia for your own training needs please phone 07 5599 5568 or email contact@beautytherapytraining.com.au

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APJ 26

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companyprofile

Skin Biomedics Institute Transforming Lives through DERMATONICS Introducing BEAUTY and the BRAINS, where Science meets everyday skincare, makeup, even household products. That means the equivalent of 2.5 grams of chemicals is absorbed by the Beauty. I am sure you are wondering how and why? skin PER DAY or imagine half a teaspoon of chemicals daily. But I A new range of biotechnology products is taking the Australian think the most alarming fact is that some of these chemicals are beauty industry by storm. The team at Skin BioMedics Institute known carcinogens or cancer causing agents” he confirms.

(SBMI) have a bold vision to revolutionise the world of skincare.

Catherine Lawler-Rohan, a Global award winning expert, and Introducing our two scientists, Dr Holder Marcal and his wife Sally Park, a third generation International Clinical Aesthetician, Dr Donna Marcal - the brains and co-creators of our world first bring to SBMI decades of knowledge and experience in the Nutridermaceutical Technology™ Skincare range, beauty industry. Catherine and Sally are at the forefront of the Dermatonics®. These products contain ingredients extracted beauty industry and together they know what women want and from botanicals using an advanced innovative technology that expect from a product. They believe that all women will love results in the purest ingredients. This extraction technique is a Dermatonics as they are safe and free from harmful chemicals. gentle and green technology that preserves our medicinal plant extracts as close as possible to nature. We call this process BRINGING PURITY AND SAFETY TO A NEW LEVEL Biomimicry.

Dermatonics® Skincare contain high-purity start materials and are one of the purest products currently on the market. They Now meet Dr Sinan Ali, he is our human physiologist and contain super-pure ingredients, more organic than organic. They scientific consultant. He reports, “the average woman is exposed contain up to 55 active ingredients grown in our “Gardens of to approximately 2.5kgs of beauty products per year, comprising Excellence” in Indonesia (17 Hectares of Medicinal Plants grown of 200-600 different chemicals of which 50-60% of these at high altitude), Acre in the Brazilian Amazon and our own chemicals are absorbed into the bloodstream and that's just from Australian Natives prepared using Supercritical Fluid Extraction

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(SFE) technology. The SBMI team believes that facilitating the T h e S B M I t e a m h a s natural plant with its natural environment nurtures what Mother addressed this by the Nature has offered. development of a patent protected revolutionary SBMI practices what is called permaculture which was practised personalised skin analysis

by Ancient Egyptians. For example Dermatonics® contains a technology. Furthermore, special type of Curcumin that is best grown in high altitude to SBMI have also developed ensure the plant retains its potent antioxidant and phytochemical their Australian and world composition. This is then prepared using SFE to obtain a superior first Nutridermaceutical C. Lawler-Rohan Dr Holder Marcal starting material that goes into the Dermatonics® skincare technology™. Our skincare formulation and ensures that it delivers skin solutions with a high range, Dermatonics® is level of safety and efficacy that consumers are now seeking. infused with medicinal plant, Dermatonics® contains super-pure organic start materials hence, spices, flower and oil the consumer is reassured that they are receiving premium extracts that have been product that is safe and fresh. This is the next generation of prepared using supercritical skincare. fluid extraction(SFE) technology. SFE results in SBMI uses an evidence base approach to skincare that aims to super-pure organic start Dr Donna Marcal Sally Park improve the awareness of some of the toxic chemicals in our daily materials without a trace of personal care regime that can potentially contribute towards the contaminant solvents and chemicals that can result from the development of disease formation and possibly cancer. The World current and traditional extraction methods.

Health Organisation reports that there has been a worldwide increase in neurological, musculo-skeletal, autoimmune The team at SBMI continue to develop evidence-based, conditions, diabetes and cancer. Although illnesses can be laboratory tested, toxic chemical free skincare products attributed to exposure to a single or a combination of chemicals or containing highly pure, natural bioactive ingredients. compounds. The mixtures of these potentially toxic chemicals in our personal and skincare products are combined in the bloodstream and can contribute towards the development of For more information, visit our website diseases and cancers such as breast cancer. Exposure to a mixture www.skinbiomedicasinstitute.com of chemicals occurs on a daily basis from use of products for www.dermatonics.com.au skincare, makeup and perfumes. When we combine products that contain some of these toxic chemicals the results are unpredictable and unknown.

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starperformer

bt-Gear™ The TOOLKIT no skin therapist should be without bt-Gear™ fans out there understand very well when we say that sometimes good things do come in small packages.

Designed to increase your performance and results as a skin professional, the bt-Gear™ range of handheld equipment work in harmony to breeze you through your work day, from the skin-consultation process right through to treatment and post-treatment progress tracking.

What's more, the devices can all be fitted neatly, along with your favourite skincare products, in the stylish bt-Tech Belt™ which wraps perfectly around your waist so you always have the tools close at hand – not to mention it adds an impressive and ultra-professional edge to your salon uniform! Owners have also reported that they love having their bt-Gear™ kit on their body throughout the day because they can seize great opportunities to perform instant analysis for customers browsing the retail area to help with product recommendations and cement those up-sells.

So what makes up the perfect bt-Gear™ skin-therapy kit? Let's break it down: ! bt-Zoom™ offers wireless, handheld magnification up to 5x with 8 clear LED lights and 4 UV LED lights to clearly determine specific skin conditions and problematic areas.

Perfect for: Skin consults and diagnosis ! bt-Analyze™ boasts a patented skinmembrane sensor and uses advanced technology to calculate skinmoisture content levels.

Perfect for: 'Before' and 'after' treatment analysis. ! b t - M i c ro ™ u s e s ultrasonic exfoliation to thoroughly peel and decongest dull s kin i n probl em areas, while productinfusion modes increase skincare penetration by up to 500% compared to topical application.

Perfect for: Stand-alone facial service, pre-treatment skin priming and product infusion.

!

bt-Tech Belt™ is a professional, lightweight adjustable holster that carries a range of skincare products and accessories for salon professionals on the go.

Perfect for: Keeping your bt-Gear™ tools conveniently within hand's reach all day long. .

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Discover how the hi-tech bt-Gear™ toolkit can optimise your skin consults and facials by calling The Global Beauty Group on 1300 006 607 or visit www.TheGlobalBeautyGroup.com.au

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APJ 30

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productlaunch

Q-10 Premium 2-IN-1 Powerful, Effective, Convenient and Safe Clairderm Medical Aesthetics is committed to empowering businesses to succeed through expert technology. The company has over 23 years' experience in the manufacture and supply of medical and aesthetic equipment. Its legacy for excellence drives the supply of products that are of the highest quality, consistently providing optimal patient outcomes that are supported by ongoing training and development.

The Q-10 Premium 2-in-1Laser is the latest innovation from Clairderm Medical Aesthetics. It offers the latest in advanced Q-Switched Nd:YAG and Long Pulse Laser Technology in one laser.

This state of the art laser has been designed for non-surgical and non-invasive tattoo and hair removal, skin regeneration and the targeted treatment of vascular and pigmented lesions. It's powerful, effective, convenient and safe offering advanced features for optimal results. The Q-10 Premium 2-in-1 Laser maximises patient satisfaction with minimal downtime.

So what are its advanced features?

! ! ! !

3 Laser modes in 1 Platform: Q-Switched Nd:Yag, Long Pulsed Nd:Yag and Genesis (PTP) mode.

PTP Mode: Offers fast and convenient treatments and effective patient pain management. It also helps minimise skin damage, PIH and encourages the skin to regenerate faster.

High pulse frequency: Helps to minimise tissue damage and shortens treatment time.

Multiple wavelengths and handpieces: Allows for multiple, safe and easy applications.

Wavelength

Q-Switched Nd:YAG Laser 1064nm, 532nm, 585nm, 650nm

Handpiece Standard 1064nm & 532nm.

Optional 585nm, 650nm & fractional for 1064nm

! ! !

Long Pulsed Nd:YAG Laser 1064nm Standard 1064nm 2-10mm spot size & 1064nm 11-15mm spot size

Optimal power and pulse width for multiple treatments. * Q-Switch 1064nm Double Max1.8J, Genesis Max 4.5J pulse width from 5-8ns * Long pulse 1064nm power 50J/ Pulse width 5-25ms Adjustable Spot Size * 2-10mm in one handpiece for convenient and fast treatments *Large Spot size (11mm-15mm) for long Pulse 1064nm. Perfect for toning and lifting treatments.

State of the art technology for the perfect Top-Hat Mode ensuring even laser delivery to the treatment site and reduced side effects like PIH.

See Me No More!

The inclusion of three laser modes in one platforms ensures that it has multiple clinical applications namely: tattoo and hair removal; treatment of pigmented lesions in the dermis and epidermis, vascular lesions, acne, toning, lifting, skin regeneration, melasma and carbon peel.

To discover more on how Q10 Premium 2-in-laser can empower your business’s success please contact Clairderm Medical Aesthetics on 1300 781 239 or visit us at www.medicalbeautyequipment.com.

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APJ 32

ingredientscience

Reviewing classification and claims in

COSMETIC FORMULATIONS – A regulatory perspective

By Terry Everitt

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APJ 34

In terms of formulations cosmetic products are becoming more sophisticated. As research confirms the action of certain ingredients, so scientifically validated ingredients when formulated with effective, micronised delivery systems it would be true to say that they can deliver a new level of treatment outcome. Within our profession when combined with advanced technologies and techniques to further enhance their penetration they can achieve noticeable improvement, including skin clarity, texture and tone. This poses a challenge about permissible claims when advertising expected results.

While the physiological activity of cosmeceuticals would see them fit the definition of therapeutics (i.e. drugs), their action should not involve physiological processes of the body or treatment of a disease or poor state of health. At least you cannot claim them to do so.

In trying to validate the effects of cosmeceuticals, some have put forth the argument that cosmeceuticals sit in the realm of providing physiological activities within the skin (not the body) to bring about transient topical responses to cause a change in the appearance of the user. This I find inane – do they not think the skin is part of the body?

Terry Everitt is a specialist in the area of cosmetic ingredients.

In this article he address the issue of cosmeceuticals and where Cosmeceutical products should be classified as cosmetics with clinically proven appearance-based activity. If there is no action, the term sits from a regulatory perspective, permissible claims then why should a client buy and use such a product? Such and new advances in actives to look out for.

products, however, can only be promoted using claims suitable to a cosmetic product.

Cosmetic concerns are important to most of our clients. Among the difficulties faced by consumers is the blitz of advertising of The ongoing blurring of the line between cosmetics and new and presumably revolutionary products that can rejuvenate therapeutics causes much angst as the products do and must make and preserve their youthful appearance. Many products make a physiological change to the skin, however, claiming it being what sound like medical claims about the efficacy of their action. able to do this makes the product a drug (in legislative terms).

The market is flooded with a sea of cosmeceutical products that can help to improve the quality and appearance of clients' skin.

The long-term benefits will not be to the level of a

pharmaceutical, but still they are consumer-perceivable benefits, which might result in some redness reduction, or a firming action.

Actually there is no such thing as a cosmeceutical (legally Such wording of the action keeps the action within the realm of speaking). Neither the American Food and Drug Administration cosmetics, not pharma.

(FDA) or the Australian Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) recognise this term as a separate entity. The term Over-the-counter drugs are being used in skincare. The testing of cosmeceutical, in their eyes, is another word for cosmetics. I think such ingredients have already been tested for over-the-counter if you ask most people what is a cosmeceutical, they would tell drug status, so it does not matter which counter they are sold you that it's a product that enhances the skin in some manner, over,be it at the pharmacy, supermarket or your salon or clinic. different from a cosmetic that traditionally is thought to only scent, colour and adorn the skin; yet there is no such thing as You will see a lot of cosmeceuticals say they improve skin radiance. Well, what is radiance? No-one really knows, as it is so cosmeceutical from a regulatory standpoint (Draelos 2014). subjective. I believe it's increased light reflection from the skin Essentially under legislation, there are only three categories; surface, which is an optical effect (primarily by having a smooth prescription drugs; over-the-counter drugs (including such things surface provided by a moisturiser) not implying any changes in as sunscreen, antiperspirants and toothpaste) and cosmetics. the skin itself. If you tell someone “you look radiant”, somehow those words have a connotation that makes people feel they have Cosmetics are a category that is primarily unregulated. The overan improved appearance. the-counter drugs are regulated through a monograph. They are regulated by the Drugs and Poisons regulatory bodies in each State.

WHAT IS A COSMECEUTICAL?

Cosmeceuticals is a neologism, that is a contraction of two words, cosmetic and pharmaceutical. The term cosmeceutical(s) was coined by Dr. Albert Kligman in the mid-1960s, although it took time to become well known and used as a separate category in skincare over 20 years ago in the early 1990s.

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While cosmeceuticals evidentially exist, the claims made for the products’ efficacy are all appearance claims. A drug claim would be gets rid of wrinkles – a cosmeceutical or cosmetic claim would be “improves the appearance of wrinkles”.

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APJ 35

topicals, due to their well-known and researched effects.

6Dehydrogingerdione (6-DG), also from ginger, is a winner in wound repair, as it has been shown to increase fibroblast collagen, reduce matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), protein expression and recovered tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinase-1 (TIMP-1) secretion – all essential in the proliferation state of wound repair (Gupta 2014).

Mangiferin, a compound obtained from mango, inhibits ubiquitination, provides antioxidant and cytoprotective action, protection against radiation-induced DNA damage and UVB-induced skin ageing.

Coming from my years in legislative compliance, one of my favourite mantras is “it is all in the words”. This is true in all instances of word use, in terms of cosmeceuticals, it is what you say or imply what the product does, as opposed to what it actually does, that makes all the difference and keeps you in the cosmetic rather than the drug space.

Curcumin, normally attained from turmeric, is one of the current great health ingredients and has been problematic in formulation until now. It has been found the hydrogenation of curcumin provides an almost-white tetrahydrocurcuminoid substance that retains potent antioxidants without the consumer concerns of curcumin's colour (Gupta 2014). Another great ingredient with colour concerns is astaxanthin. Just 0.1%, astaxanthin, a bright COSMETIC TESTING red carotenoid with potent antioxidant attributes, can render a Bigger companies will have a larger base of scientists who spend yellow-to-orange tint to a topical cream or lotion formulation, and time doing basic research, and more money usually translates into even stain clothing, as is the case with curcumin. more research. Much of this research is done in-house and not by third-party people, which opens the door for bias (or risk of bias) an apple a day might keep the doctor away as the saying goes; that should not be ignored. Using this information, they mould however, it might also help keep the signs of aged skin away also. their ingredients to fit what they are trying to achieve (Petrou 2011).

Phloridzin and phloretin from apple root have been shown as two Obviously the safety of the product is important and one of the most common tests is the Repeat Insult Patch Test (RIPT). This is done by the company, or it could be done by the raw-material supplier that provides the ingredients to the company. Repeat Insult Patch Testing is where the product is applied to the back of volunteers to better understand if irritant-contact dermatitis or allergic-contact dermatitis might occur. RIPT testing is usually done not only on the raw materials that are put into the product, but also on the final formulation. This type of testing is done routinely to prevent the introduction of products into the marketplace that could result in safety issues.

potent antioxidants, anti-inflammatories that work on MMPinhibition, free-radical scavenging, superoxide dismutase (SOD) activation, glutathione peroxidase activation, peroxynitrite scavenging, lipid peroxidation inhibition (Stangl 2005). Solid list for the humble apple.

You already know of Resveratrol and the multiple effects that it provides. Vam-3 (trans-epsilon-viniferin), a resveratrol dimer, inhibits cigarette smoke-induced cell apoptosis in lungs by improving mitochondrial function – while Vam-3 is not in skin care as yet (as far as I know), it will make an appearance soon, in trying to repair skin damage caused by smoking.

Reputable companies will always use safe ingredients – the trick is having so many ingredients in the same container reacting together to produce a combined effect, not known to belong to any single ingredient.

Amino acid strands are so useful in skincare and there are many available now that have research behind them. Palmitoyl, derived from palmitic acid, is joined with various aminos such as alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glycine, histidine, lysine, proline, serine for skin careuse. This list below is one supplied by Dr Linder WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR (2014), a well-respected Dermatologist from the University of So what ingredients are required to make a product a Southern California, San Francisco, in a forward-thinking paper cosmeceutical? Pretty much anything that has an effect, is the regarding facial volume loss. As an adjunct to (or replacement short answer. Here is a short list of possible cosmeceutical for) dermal fillers, she recommends this list of possible peptides ingredients. that help with volumising the skin.

We already are aware of the great advantage that polyphenolic molecules provide, generally as antioxidants. Phenolic components of ginger (Zingiberofficinale), for example such as gingerol, shogaol and zingerone will appear in anti-inflammatory

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! Palmitoyl

tripeptide-38: Stimulates the production of collagen I, III and IV; fibronectin; hyaluronic acid; laminin5; and heat shock protein 47 (HSP47), a chaperone protein that ensures these other important matrix components

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successfully reach maturity.

! Palmitoyl tripeptide-5: Increases collagen deposition. ! Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7: Improves skin firmness elasticity.

Go through the above list again to see what I mean. The company and made a number of changes and FDA sent a “close out” letter dated 10/29/15 stating that the company had addressed the violations.

! Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4: Increases collagen I and IV. ! Palmitoyl oligopeptide: Stimulates collagen production. ! Palmitoyl oligopeptide-palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7:

The TGA basically has the same rules in legislation as does the FDA and the same powers. While an individual making claims of Stimulates the production of multiple ECM components. their skincare products function would be perhaps too small of a concern to the TGA a company making the same claims would be MARKETING a bigger fish to catch. Nevertheless, be careful in what you tell The appearance and aroma of a topical product plays a pivotal role clients as to what your products do. in the consumer psychology; a cream or lotion that is pure white in appearance with a creamy, silky-smooth tactile feel is preferred The use of cosmeceutical ingredients, quite prevalent presently, is globally. This can limit the utilisation of some of the most really still in its nascent stage, with an explosion of newer effective ingredients, for example certain antioxidants, in any ingredients and delivery technology still to be realised. beneficial amount.

The gap between what a cosmeceutical can do as opposed to a I am sure that here in Australia the TGA has notified companies topical pharmaceutical is fast closing. Clients (and ourselves) regard their marketing claims, although I am not aware of any want products that actually do work and make some type of such action going to court. The FDA certainly has and perhaps the physiological change to and in the skin. If not, then why buy it? most important and well-known case of recent times (March 2015) was the letter sent by FDA to Skin Authority LLC, a skin- BEYOND COSMECEUTICAL As the consumer interest wanes on cosmeceuticals, marketing care company in Southern California. will provide new trends and 'buzz words' to encourage buying FDA stated that “The claims on your website indicate that the power. While not agreeing with the terminology, it is not too products are intended for the use in the cure, mitigation, difficult to dream up what might be coming. My little prediction is treatment, or prevention of disease and/or are intended to affect that we might be seeing cosmedics or medicosmetics, perhaps the structure or any function of the human body, rendering them even pharmaceuticals coming to skincare in the not so distant drugs under section 201(g)(1)(C) of the Federal Food, Drug, and future.

Cosmetic Act (the Act)”.

There is a constant avalanche of new intelligent ingredients and Below are some of the 23 infractions noted in the letter, which advanced technologies in delivery being released – some are stated that if Skin Authority fails to correct these violations, legal variations of what is already known and some are completely action will be taken without further notice, and may include new. Frequently it is a little trick of molarity (the measure of the seizure or injunction. concentration of a solute in a solution), or some other chemical change that provides the new ingredient. Either way our skincare ! “TGF-b(1-3) (Transforming Growth Factor Beta) to products are proving to be more effective as they need to be. stimulate collagen, to help inhibit cellular breakdown.”

Always remember, however, in legislation, that it is what you are ! “PDFG (Platelet Derived Growth Factor) to activate wound implying (not what the product does) that makes your product a healing fostering new skin growth, reduce scar tissue, and to drug or a cosmetic. form stronger blood vessels.” ! “GM-CSF (Granulocyte-Macrophage Colony-Stimulating Terry Everitt is regarded as a Master Skincare Professional Factor) to restore blood cell response to the breakdown of due to his extensive knowledge of the art and science of skin structure, to help counteract infection (e.​g., acne), to skincare. A very competent educator who continues to lecture even-out discoloured appearance (e.​g., hyperpigmentation), from an evidence-based scientific background. Terry remains to help reduce inflammation (e.​g., Rosacea).” the Senior Lecturer at the Australasian College of Health and ! “Skin Growth Factors/Human Fibroblast Conditioned Wellness and Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To Media: Four essential skin proteins stimulate collagen, contact Terry you can reach him on terryeveritt@gmail.com. inhibit cellular breakdown, increase cell growth, and enable cells to locate nutrients fostering faster skin growth, stronger References: blood vessel formation, reduce infection, calm inflamma- Draelos, Z. (2014). A plethora of cosmeceutical products. tion…”

Dermatology Times. Published online. Accessed June 2016. ! “Glycolic Acid: Open follicles and reduce oil production.” Food and Drug Administration. (2015). Letter to Skin Authority, ! “Green Tea Extract: Potent anti-inflammatory agent helps LLC reduce inflammation and prevents collagen breakdown by Gupta, S. (2016). Innovative ingredients from time-tested natural inhibiting the collagenase enzyme.” sources await commercialization in nutritional and topical products for an inside-outside strategy. Formulating Some of these ingredients may be in the products you have. It is Cosmeceuticals & Nutraceuticals for Skin Care. Published not so much the individual ingredient, yet what you claim it to do, online. that makes it a cosmetic or drug claim. Changing the wording to Linder, J. (2014). Combating Facial Volume Loss with be a little more vague while still promising change would have Cosmeceuticals. Skin Inc. May. been fine. The use of 'may help to… gives the appearance of Petrou, I. (2011). Making the science behind cosmeceuticals change without actually stating it will change. While this count. Dermatology Times. Published online, May 1st. Accessed company did use help to at times, the rest of the claims are July 2014 Stangl et al. (2005). Journal of Nutrition. 135:172-8. absolute effective claims.

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apanconference

APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE 2016

Raising Professional Standards and Recognition PERTH – CROWN HOTEL SUNDAY 23rd October It is not always feasible for business owners and practitioners to visit a different State to attend a good independent educational conference program. No-one would know that more that Western Australians who have the most to travel to attend conferences and events held in the Eastern States. For this reason APAN is the only industry body that conducts three Conference events each year, targeting different States. Our aim is to ensure, as much as possible that we accommodate the needs of the industry. This year we are delighted that our last, but not least, Aesthetics Conference event will be held in Perth, Western Australia.

With the theme Raising Professional Standards and Recognition delegates can expect to benefit from a comprehensive program what will provide them with a cross-section of relevant and pertinent educational and business topics, as well as new advance in standards and regulations. The program promises to inspire, excite and equip professionals and businesses alike with high-quality education and information to implement positive improvement and change for your ongoing success. Join us for some amazing networking and fun. The event will be fully catered for and will also feature a small exhibition of the latest quality products, business and educational solutions for your benefit.

REGISTRATION AND NETWORKING 8.30am - 9.00am TOPIC: THE LATEST IN THE FIELD OF DERMATOLOGY – New advances and treatment options SPEAKER: Dr Philip Singh - MBBS TIME: 9.00AM - 9.45AM Many of the clients or patients that visit your salon or clinic while seeking to improve the appearance of their skin may also exhibit dermatological disorders that if not correctly identified and addressed, may compromise your overall treatment outcomes. It would be true to say that the treatment of skin in aesthetics also required that we address acute and chronic skin disorders.

Dr Philip Singh graduated with an MBBS from the University of Western Australia in 2005 and completed his intern training at Sir Charles Gardner Hospital. Moving to Brisbane to pursue his interest in Dermatology, he worked in private practice as a

Clinical Assistant in Dermatology and also held a post as a Research Officer with the Dermatology Research Centre at The University of Queensland, School of Medicine.

This lecture will provide you with a Dermatologist's perspective and update on the latest advances in Dermatology.

In this lecture you will learn: ! What are the latest approaches to the common Dermatological disorders such as acne and psoriasis ! What we should be advising Dermatology patients when it comes to aesthetic treatments ! What is on the horizon for Dermatology MORNING TEA AND NETWORKING BREAK 9.45AM - 10.15AM

TOPIC: AN INDUSTRY IN TRANSITION – How you can profit from change SPEAKER: Tina Viney - APAN President and CEO TIME: 10.15 - 11.15AM New advances and innovations are bringing with them both opportunities and threats. Gain the inside scoop and be the first to learn about the latest global updates on the subtle and not-so-subtle changes that will affect your future both as a professional, as well as a business owner. Many past concepts are no longer working. Learn which ones they are and what changes you need to make to secure and enhance your progress with less effort. If you are stuck, or if you want to rise above your current position and secure your ongoing growth, then this lecture is for you.

Tina Viney is the foremost expert on consumer and industry trends, as well as Australian Regulations and where the industry is heading. Her passionate commitment in protecting and defending the aesthetics industry, and her extensive knowledge and expertise have assisted many businesses Australia-wide to overcome their challenges and move forward with greater ease and achieve their goals.

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In this lecture you will learn: ! How cosmetic formulations are about to change and why

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Identifying and defining the new threats and how you can overcome them The enemy from within and how your voice can save the industry How you and your business can benefit from the new industry standards

TOPIC: REGULATIONS AND WHAT IS HAPPENING IN WA SPEAKER: Christine Comans TIME: 11.15AM - 11.30AM Christine Comans is the APAN coordinator and representative with Government bodies in Western Australia. She is extensively involved in the area of regulations and is a passionate advocate in support of appropriate regulations that will best serve the interest of the industry in both cosmetic tattooing, as well as dermal and aesthetic therapies.

Christine will be giving a brief update on the status of regulations specifically for Western Australian practitioners and businesses and present how you can get involved in ensuring the outcomes that will best protect your profession and your business.

NETWORKING BREAK 11.30AM - 12.00 NOON

TOPIC: PUBLICITY FOR PROFIT – The keys to getting publicity for your business SPEAKER: Sue Papadoulis TIME: 12.00PM - 12.45PM

team have helped thousands of people in Perth and around Australia who didn't think there was anything interesting about them and their business get excellent publicity.

In this lecture you will learn: ! The fastest and easiest way to get publicity right now ! Why it's all about your story - not the size of your business ! What you need in a press release ! How the media really works ! Why you don't need to hire an expensive public relations firm ever again.

LUNCH BREAK 12.45PM - 1.30PM

TOPIC: AGE AND RAGE – Understanding and beating Glycation SPEAKER: Terry Everitt TIME: 1.30PM - 2.15PM If you are involved in improving the skin and addressing deficiencies and ageing then you will be very aware of Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs) by now, however, one of APANs master speakers will give you rare insights into how glycation impacts the body and specifically the skin. In this talk Terry Everitt will make a very technical subject a little easier to understand and what can be done about it. If you are truly serious about skincare, then this presentation is a must to further your knowledge of what are causative impacts and how you can help the amelioration of the damaging sequel of the nonenzymatic joining of two readily available compounds – sugar and protein. Glucose toxicity is a factor, but there is much more and, in fact glucose is not the major factor in the resulting damage when AGE and RAGE get together.

Do you want free publicity on TV, radio, newspapers, magazines and online and create more sales?

Imagine your business being feature on TV like Today Tonight, In this lecture you will learn: ! How to understand what AGE actually is and looks like the Today Show, The Project, Sunrise, or Sky Business News; or ! Gain scientific, evidence-based treatment strategies radio like 6PR, in magazines like New Idea, in newspapers like ! Realise the effects AGE has on skin morphology the West Australian, the Australian or an online news services. ! Understand the nexus between internal and external forces on skin physiology Join journalist and publicity expert Sue Papadoulis as she reveals !

Gain a clear picture of Glycation, Glycooxidation, the secrets and strategies on how to get media exposure for you Glycotoxins, Glycooxidation-type terminology and your business. Sue Papadoulis and the Publicity for Profit

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NETWORKING BREAK 2.15PM - 2.45PM

TOPIC: MINDFUL DESIGN – The new tool for business growth SPEAKER: Agatha Ozhylovski – Director, AgathaO House of Design TIME: 2.45PM - 3.30PM People are good at expressing what they want, what they like, and even how much they will pay for an item, product, or a service. But what they aren't good at is accessing where that value comes from, how and when they were influenced in making purchasing decisions. This is where a nascent field of neuroscience combined with architectural interior design comes into play.

Neuroscience is a new tool used to determine why we prefer some products, companies and /or services over others, and why are we so loyal to them. Architectural interior decoration and design puts these studies into practice creating emotionally intelligent environments to further affirm your business culture.

What does your business say about you? What message are you giving your clients?

as valuable "companion" products to support treatment outcomes.

Dr Zac Turner is a new-generation medical practitioner with a broad medical as well as cosmetic medicine background. He employs cutting-edge techniques for appearance enhancement through the use of injectables, as well as through the use of peptides. Dr Zac will present an informative lecture on the latest scientific research on peptides, how they work, and how they can be professionally introduced to your clients and patients to enhance your skincare results, improve weight-loss and wellbeing, as well as provide you with an additional source of income.

In this lecture you will learn: ! The latest research on peptides and how they work ! How they can benefit your clients ! What are the current consumer market drivers ! Safety and regulatory issues

Agatha Ozhylovski from AgathaO House of Design is a internationally recognised and awarded interior designer. She will explain how raw brain data combined with architectural interior decoration and design is helping companies unlock the mysteries of consumer choice and obtain long-term growth in an increasingly competitive business landscape.

In this lecture you will learn: ! What message are you giving to your clients when they enter your premises? ! As competition grows and many businesses provide the same services, how can you create a point of difference? ! How can you provide your clients both results as well as a unique experience? ! The power of colour and texture?

Crown Perth If you have never been to Perth here is your chance to visit this great State, while attending an amazing quality educational program with this year's APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE – Perth.

The event will be held at the Crown Hotel which is considered as one of Perth's happening places to stay.

AFTERNOON TEA AND NETWORKING 3.30PM - 4.00PM

TOPIC: NEW RESEARCH IN PEPTIDES – How introducing this service can help elevate your competitive advantage and boost your business growth SPEAKER: Dr Zac Turner (MBBS) TIME: 4.00PM - 4.45PM Today's consumers have an everincreasing appetite for finding ways to improving their appearance, energy levels, weight-loss and wellbeing. The astute consumer wants it all, but are you just taking care of their skin? If you are seeking credible ways to expand your services this lecture can provide you with amazing education as well as introduce to you the most credible way to evolve into as a leading clinic or salon.

New advances in peptides have identified ways they can be used to improve weight-loss, energy levels, wellbeing and overall health and skin improvement. They are currently in the spotlight

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Crown Perth is an entertainment 5-Star resort located in Burswood. Set in on the banks of the Swan River, this modern pyramid-style casino hotel is a 3-minute walk from the nearest Transperth train station, and 5 km from the city centre, Perth Zoo and the Western Australian Museum, which explores the local history and culture. The resort also has a casino and 32 restaurants and bars, as well as a nightclub and recreational facilities including a resort-style pool and a spa.

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Join us for an amazing educational experience and also enjoy a wonderful time of fun.

PRE-REGISTRATION IS ESSENTIAL FOR CATERING PURPOSES APAN MEMBERS: $230 NON-MEMBERS: $249.

Special rates apply for group bookings of three or more.

To register for the Perth Conference visit www.apanetwork.com and complete your registration form on-line or phone 07 55930360 for any further questions.

Monday 24th October

FOR HOTEL ACCOMMODATION AT THE SPECIAL APAN CONFERENCE DISCOUNT RATES REGISTER ON-LINE AT www.apanetwork.com AND ACCESS THE WEBLINK FOR YOUR SPECIAL CROWN PERTH DISCOUNT RATE.

APAN COSMETIC TATTOO EDUCATION

CONFERENCE LOCATION: CROWN Perth CONVENTION CENTRE, Botanical Rooms 3 and 4, Great Eastern Hwy, BURSWOOD, Perth, WA.

If you are a cosmetic tattooist and wish to attend this workshop please see page 43 for further details.

Advanced Winged Eyeliner Techniques Made Easy

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businessstrategies

THE ART AND VALUE OF BLOGGING

by Trish Hammond Blogging is really all about writing about experiences. This can be 7. It makes you and your brand known. life experiences, events, food, places or any topic you, the writer, 8. It feeds your social media networks and makes them more active. might want to share online. It is kind of like a diary that you want 9. It brings more engagement on your social channels. to share with the 'public'.

10. It opens doors for publicity for you and your brand.

For some, blogging is a hobby. For others, it might be part of a 11. It increases your fans and followers. marketing campaign. The goal of blogging is to share, teach, help, 12. It boosts your business. or give out sensible and accurate information to an audience, and Blogging either ways is a win-win for you and your business. to reach out to people.

You've got nothing to lose by blogging – whether people read or Blogging is really satisfying to do (or that's how I feel). It can give joy and benefit both the reader and the blogger. Whatever your objective is for your blog, it should be worth the time and effort you have poured into writing it, and worth the time and commitment that the reader takes to read it.

not – as long as you are having fun doing it, and you're doing it with the right values and 'manners', it won't be wasted time, because you just never know whose eyes may see it.

Trish Hammond is director of Plastic Surgery Hub and an Expert Blogger who specialises in aesthetics content. She was also honoured in 2015 as the winner of the BEST AESTHETICS Personal blogging and blogging for marketing are both BLOGGER AWARD at My Face My Body global aesthetics awards. really worthwhile. Here's why: If you would like to engage an expert to help you with your blogging needs please contact Trish on 0429 264 811 or email Personal blogging: info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au 1. You can help people 'visit' things and places they haven't seen or been to.

2. You can give people a heads-up about the things they might PLASTIC SURGERY HUB ALSO PROVIDE ADDITIONAL SERVICES INCLUDING: be interested in trying.

3. You can inspire and be an influencer. ! Press Releases 4. You gain followers and friends. ! Social Media Setup and/or Management 5. It brings opportunity for you or your blog to be featured in ! Blog Submissions other media.

6. It improves your writing and storytelling skills. ! Vlogs (video blogs) 7. It makes you more observant of what's happening. ! Article Submission / Article Writing 8. You might get to be famous - LOL! 9. It builds your personal brand. ! Directory Submissions ! Website Optimisation (individualised and specific) Blogging for marketing: 1. Drives traffic to your website. ! Website Creation (for you to edit and update as 2. Blogs update and make your website alive and active. required) 3. Brings engagement. Leave a comment area right below your blog so people can give feedback and you can start a communication.

4. Brings more leads because the traffic it creates can be converted into leads.

5. It gives you a chance to guest blog on others' websites.

6. It establishes your authority especially when your blog is informative and educational.

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Advanced Winged Eyeliner Techniques Made Easy APAN COSMETIC TATTOO EDUCATION PERTH – MONDAY 24th October The demand for the winged eyeliner is definitely the new must-have trend.

While in the past eyeliner technique was very simple, the new-look winged eyeliner is more of a fashion statement and requires mastering special techniques to achieve a successful outcome that is delicate yet enhancing the appearance of the eye. This can be a challenging especially as skin around the eye can vary in elasticity as well as anatomically. Eyes also vary in shapes this may compromise your efforts.

LEARNING OBJECTIVES: 1. How to design the correct winged look on even the most difficult eyes.

2. Drawing Tails in correct position.

3. Keeping your Marks in place so as to tattoo what you have drawn.

4. Obtaining even pigmentation at the right depth and speed.

This training session will be very thorough and will cover a great deal of technical information supported by physical demonstration as well as a question and answer session. It will be a Look and Learn training session where our expert will educate and demonstrate the technical skills and advanced techniques on how to perfect the Winged Eyeliner.

TIME: 9.30am to 2pm DATE: Monday 24th October LOCATION: At QE2 Medical Centre (details will be provided prior to the event) COST: $495

YOU WILL RECEIVE: Meals: Lunch will be provided Resources: You will receive training Kit with stepby-step instructions and diagrams as well some products.

Certification: Students will received an APAN Certificate of Attendance for Advanced Education in Winged Eyeliner Techniques.

Caroline Broes is recognised nationally and internationally as a highly skilled and qualified Cosmetic Tattooist with extensive experience, which she had gained over 15 years in the beauty and Cosmetic Tattoo industry. She is considered as a specialist in eyebrow and eyeliner and her techniques for these procedures are renowned as the very best. In 2010 Caroline was the recipient of the R o s l y n N o r r i s Aw a r d f o r B e s t Advanced Cosmetic Tattoo Therapist for Australia. APAN is delighted that Caroline has accepted to share her knowledge and her unique techniques in the winged eyeliner.

To register on-line today visit www.apanetwork.com Early registrations are advisable as there will be limited number for attending this educational program. or contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 for further information.

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starperformer

Alma Lasers Launch Beauty Line in Australia Alma Lasers, the global innovator of technologies, have partnered with Spectrum Science and Beauty to launch their beauty line in Australia. This brings Alma's clinically proven and patented technologies to Australia at affordable price points.

“Spectrum is extremely excited to partner with Alma Lasers because they have consistently delivered the most innovative technologies to the market, and is a global leader in this industry,” says Ben Skeggs.

Alma has been at the forefront revolutionising existing treatment methods and working to serve the varied and growing needs of both patients and practitioners around the world. Our focus was to work closely with Alma to introduce a beauty range to Australia that delivers Alma's leading technologies at affordable price points to allow a strong Return on Investment (ROI) for clinics and salons.

Benefits of Alma Beauty line in Australia: ! Clinically proven and patented technologies at affordable price points ! Opportunity for strong Return on Investment (ROI) ! Enable clinics to offer safe, effective and profitable treatments to their customers ! Training based on the latest clinical research and proven methods ! Full service and support Full Support Solution It is not just the Return on Investment (ROI) that this range of equipment caters to. Spectrum offers installation, training, marketing, and service support. The Spectrum solution provides you with all of the tools, skills, knowledge and support you'll need to optimally launch and implement Alma Beauty's technologies within your business.

Clinically Proven and Patented Technologies offering Return on Investment (ROI) Alma Beauty's product line is unique and clinically proven and patented technologies launched into Australia include:

ALMA Beauty Rejuve – All Around Skin Rejuvenation Alma Beauty Rejuve provides a wide range of treatments for face and body. Treatments are suitable for all skin types (I-VI) and are completely safe for thin and delicate areas. Treatments include vascular and pigmented lesions, pore size reduction, tightening and contouring, permanent hair reduction.

Alma Beauty Remove – Ultimate Hair Removal technology Alma Beauty Remove offers the safest and most effective hair removal solution available today, leading the way with technology, versatility and convenience. Aestheticians are now able to treat all skin tones and the widest range of hair types, 365 days a year. Remove achieves superior results due to its use of the patented SHR technology, which has earnt global recognition and is used in top-level clinics worldwide.

ALMA Beauty Reboost – Healthy, Glowing, Glamorous Skin Should Not Be A Luxury Alma Beauty Reboost uses the power of acoustic oscillations to enhance the effectiveness of the entire skin treatment session from cleansing and exfoliation to the application and penetration of therapeutic dermatological ingredients. Reboost includes the PixelPen and Youth B(ox) treatment kit, by Mimi Luzon.

Alma Beauty Reform - Contouring and Tightening for Body and Face Alma Beauty Reform offers innovative technologies to successfully meet the challenges of age-related facial skin imperfections, including wrinkles, fine lines, skin tone and laxity.

For body, Reform provides solutions for body contouring, skin tightening and cellulite. This is achieved through Patented UniPolar Technology.

Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty Ph: 1300 766 198 Email: info@almabeauty.com.au www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au www.almabeauty.com.au

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Natural Beauty Powered by Medical Technology Welcome to the world of Alma Beauty. Bringing together a gentle approach of aesthetic care, along with the capabilities, experience and clinical success of a medical aesthetics company

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topicalanaesthetics

TRAINING IMPERATIVE for the SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS

by Chris Testa B.Bus; B.Pharm.

With advances in technology and emergence of new dermatological and laser procedures the need, in fact, the demand by patients for more effective topical anaesthesia is growing. Until technology develops beyond the need for pain elimination or reduction this demand will continue to grow.

The challenge is for all members of the healthcare team (doctors, pharmacists, nurses, specialty aesthetic practitioners) and policy makers to prepare for the waves of change technological advances are rapidly directing towards us.

An important element I strongly support is organising structured education of all stakeholders in the area of new aesthetic procedures. Practitioners need to be well informed and have a thorough understanding of the topical preparations available, their safe application, early warning signs of adverse reactions and appropriate response. Also patients and practitioners need to be aware of and comply with, regulatory requirements in terms of acquiring topical anaesthetic preparations.

Training and continuing education can answer a number of questions necessary for safe use of topical anaesthetics.

Some issue that should be addressed include:

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What are some basic principles for safe use of topical anaesthetics? E.g. the lowest effective strength, the smallest effective quantity over the smallest surface area applied for the least time.

What are the relative potencies of each ingredient in a topical preparation?

How quickly do they start to work and how long will they last?

What is their mechanism of action?

How do these agents make their way into the bloodstream and what are the risks of systemic absorption?

How much of a topical preparation is likely to be absorbed based on the best available clinical data?

What are the incidents of true allergic reactions to each agent?

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What effects do combining anaesthetic agents have on their collective potency, side effects and potential systemic toxicity?

What are the common side effects and reactions to each agent? How do you treat or respond to the reactions?

What are the serious and life threatening reactions to each agent?

What is the difference with regard to systemic absorption between a topical anaesthetic applied to mucous membrane (no stratum corneum), damaged skin, or healthy intact skin?

Recognise early signs and progression of serious side effects to topical anaesthetics.

What is a logical and safe strength, or combination, to use for a particular procedure?

How does the body deal with topical anaesthetics that are systemically absorbed?

What medication or medical condition would indicate caution or preclude the use of a topical anaesthetic?

We know with some procedures that care is needed with different skin types and colour. What consideration do we need to apply to topical anaesthetics in these circumstances?

How do you calculate the quantity of anaesthetic drug present in each gram of a particular topical anaesthetic gel or cream and how much is safe to apply?

THE RISK AND THE NEED FOR EDUCATION Anaesthetic drugs used on their own, or in combination, include lignocaine (Lidocaine), prilocaine, tetracaine and benzocaine.

Each have their own characteristics in terms of onset and duration of action, potency, clearance from the body following systemic absorption, as well as potential adverse reactions and toxicity.

Topical anaesthetics work by blocking pain sensation in the skin, consequently some of the anaesthetic can pass into the bloodstream. Systemic absorption can be influenced by the

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concentration of the anaesthetic drugs or combination of drugs in the topical preparation, the amount applied, the sight of application, the surface area covered, the duration of application, and the condition of the skin at the site of application. If too much is absorbed, serious side effects and ultimately death can occur.

In fact, in the USA, several fatalities have been reported involving topical lignocaine combined with other anaesthetic drugs applied over large areas of the body with or without occlusion.

In 2007 the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) issued a warning to healthcare professionals regarding potential risks associated with unsupervised patient use of topical anaesthetic products. This followed the death of two women who applied topical anaesthetic combinations of lignocaine and tetracaine to their legs with occlusion for an extended period prior to laser hair removal. Both women had seizures and died from toxic effects of the anaesthetic drugs.

A much wider range of anaesthetic agents are used in the hospital setting for minor and major surgery. However, some of the anaesthetics used topically for dermal procedures still have a role in surgery.

The Australian and New Zealand College of Anaesthetists conducted a review of anaesthesia related mortality reporting in Australia and New Zealand across private and public hospitals between 2006 and 2008. NSW, Victoria, Western Australia and Tasmania contributed which represent about 2/3 of Australia's population.

Of the 917 deaths reviewed in these four States, 124 were attributed to anaesthetic factors. Casual or contributing factors included anaesthetic technique, anaesthetic drug selection and dosage, crisis management, monitoring, post-operative management and supervision. In 89 cases the medical condition of the patient was a significant factor. The anaesthesia was administered by specialist anaesthetists in 86% of cases.

In 2012, the FDA again issued a health communication alerting health professionals to concerns about a rare, but possibly fatal condition called Methoglobinemia associated with benzocaine.

Methemoglobinemia is a condition where too much of the hemoglobin in red blood cells is unable to bind and carry oxygen. In the USA, benzocaine spray solutions such as Hurricane, Cetacaine, Exactacaine, and Topex are used during medical procedures to numb the mucous membrane of the mouth and throat.

The FDA over a number of years had received 319 reports of methemoglobinemia associated with benzocaine sprays. Of these, 7 cases resulted in death, 32 were categorised as life threatening, and 216 were categorised as serious.

A review of all these cases indicated that development of methemoglobinemia may not be related to the amount of benzocaine applied to mucous membrane. Cases where reported after a single spray as well as other instances of excessive application. In addition, the amount of benzocaine in a spray varied across the different brands, the residual volume in the container, spatial orientation of the container when sprayed, and how long the actuator was pressed.

All topical anaesthetic preparation must be treated seriously.

The active ingredients are potent drugs that if overused can cause serious harm and tragedy. Constant care and vigilance is needed.

Only a few years ago it would have been difficult to imagine the enormous use of social media, smartphones, tablet applications and internet access to information and the international market place.

In their quest for knowledge, online communities of like-minded individuals have developed, sharing information about products and procedures and experiences. This technological revolution has provided almost effortless online access to quite potent topical anaesthetics available overseas, but not licensed for use in Australia. Patients are attempting to access these products based on online claims with, in many cases, insufficient information about their safe use and more precisely, appropriate application to the specific dermal procedure they are about to undertake.

Individuals are seeking these overseas available products in many cases due to unsatisfactory experiences with the limited range of Australian licensed alternatives. For example, some of these overseas products are providing superior numbing due to the combination and strength of anaesthetics. Others include a vascular constrictor to reduce swelling, bruising and bleeding or are formulated at a suitable pH for application near the eye.

THE CONCERN FOR SAFETY Practitioners, including medical specialists, quite often are commenting that products commercially available in Australia are not suitable for many aesthetic procedures. For example, a high pH (alkaline) topical cream such as Emla (pH 9-9.2) is not safe for use anywhere near the eyes. Even if the pH is safe, the practitioner must take extreme care to ensure the topical anaesthetic does not come into contact with the eye. A desensitised eye is more susceptible to inadvertent corneal abrasion with the patient unaware until sometime later as the anaesthetic wears off.

Additionally, it appears unclear what effect an alkaline topical preparation may have on dermal healing or even tattoo pigments.

In some cases, the commercially available product is not able to achieve the level of pain relief necessary for many patients to continue or complete an aesthetic procedure. In other cases, a liquid or more viscous liquid preparation is required rather than a gel or cream. Also, body temperature can decrease the viscosity of some preparations after application allowing the topical anaesthetic to run into the eyes of a patient.

It appears in a small number of cases, unlicensed, overseas manufactured topical anaesthetics are being illegally imported and on-sold to unwary practitioners and patients. Practitioners under these circumstances will be unaware that they are taking a great risk.

These overseas and unlicensed formulations may be approved for use in their country of origin, but may not be manufactured under Good Manufacturing Principles (GMP) or meet the quality and safety standards expected in Australia. How safe are they for their patients?

Not only are patients placed at risk, but how will the practitioner's indemnity insurance view any claim in the event of an adverse reaction?

Education and training relating to the safe use of these products is essential and should be an important, and perhaps compulsory, component of professional training in all aesthetic procedures that utilise topical anaesthetics.

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In Australia, it is an offence to supply medicines that are not registered or listed on the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG). This Register is administered by the Therapeutics Goods Administration (TGA).

Medicines that are included in the ARTG have an AustL or AustR number displayed on their packaging.

For example:

Emla Cream AustR 12886 Blackmores Co Q10 150mg AustL 211661

Among other things, this registration ensures that these medicines are manufactured in facilities governed by the “Code of Good Manufacturing Practice” (GMP) ensuring these products meet the quality and safety standards expected by Australian consumers.

However, as already discussed, many medicines are unavailable in suitable forms for particular patients. In fact, the small size of the Australian market precludes registration of products required for small, but significant patient populations. In addition, many products are unavailable or discontinued for economic rather than safety reasons.

Where a suitable commercial product is not available, compounders are exempt from registration by the TGA under strict and specific criteria.

THE MEDICATION MUST BE PREPARED BY A COMPOUNDER WITH THE FOLLOWING REQUIREMENTS:

! Formulated for a particular person ! For therapeutic application to that person ! In a pharmacy with the appropriate facilities, equipment and

provided the solution to many formulation challenges.

Australian compounders specialise in developing medicines for patients whose individual needs cannot be met by commercially available medicines. We can tailor a formulation to meet the unique, precise needs of a patient and their specific procedure.

AUSTRALIAN REGULATIONS Topical anaesthetics in Australia are legislated as Scheduled Medicines. Each State has its own Health Regulations covering the use of scheduling of drugs and poisons.

With a view to promote uniform Scheduling of poisons across all States and Territories, the Commonwealth has established the “Standard for Uniform Scheduling of Medicines and Poisons” (SUSMP).

Topical anaesthetic preparations containing 10% or less of total anaesthetic agent (in combination or as a single agent) are regarded as Schedule 2. That is, they are a Pharmacy Medicine, the safe use of which may require advice from a Pharmacist and should only be available from a Pharmacy.

Preparations for topical use containing greater than 10% or not included in Schedule 2, are Schedule 4 or Prescription Only Medicines. That is, substances where the use or supply should be by, or on the order of a registered medical practitioner (a person permitted by State or Territory Legislation to prescribe). These preparations should only be available from a Pharmacist on prescription.

Products obtained over the internet are subject to the same laws as registered or listed medicines. If they contain Scheduled Medicines, as all topical anaesthetics do, they are subject to the same laws with regards to who is authorised to possess and use them.

qualified staff.

There is no exemption for the making of batches or bulk supply for surgery or clinic use. Supply to another party for re-labelling, or on a wholesale basis for resale is also considered manufacturing and is not exempt from the ARTG licencing regulations.

In summary, manufacturing means preparation of medicines or therapeutic goods for general supply and not for a specific patient.

There is no need to seek those unlicensed overseas products.

Australian pharmaceutical compounders have for generations,

Chris Testa is a Compound Pharmacist who is the owner and manager of Tugun Compounding Pharmacy on the Gold Coast.

Chris is also a highly respected lecturer on the topic of pharmaceutical compounding and the regulatory aspects of compounding which he delivers at the School of Pharmacy, Griffith University. Chris has worked extensively with APAN and has developed a training course for APAN - The Introduction to the topical use of Anaesthetics, which is now also available as an on-line course. For further details please visit www.apanetwork.com or phone APAN on 07 5593 0360.

APAN'S POSITION ON TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS As you can see from the above article, there are many risks to consider when using topical anaesthetics that most individuals and practitioners are often unaware of. This is the reason for binding regulatory restrictions on their use as they are all classified as drugs/medicines, whether they are an S2 or an S4 drug.

In most States within Australia, there is no provision for a practitioner, other than a medical practitioner, to directly purchase or apply a topical anaesthetic – that is the status of the current laws as set out by the Standards for Uniform Scheduling of Medicines and Poisons (SUSMP). If you research these documents the guidelines for anaesthetic can only be identified

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based on the Schedule Classification. Here is what the scheduling guidelines state (see also box in the following page):

CLASSIFICATION Poisons are classified according to the Schedules in which they are included. The following is a general description of the Schedules. For the legal definitions, however, it is necessary to check with each relevant State or Territory authority.

We are all aware that aesthetic practitioners, dermal therapist and cosmetic tattooists often require the use of topical anaesthetics to ensure the comfort of their clients, or patients when performing advanced procedures, as often there is a level of pain involved in their execution. This brings us to a very difficult predicament.

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When the use of a topical anaesthetic is needed the current laws, as we have seen, do not allow non-medical practitioners to purchase and apply the anaesthetic on the client on patient. If an S2 drug is appropriate for the procedure the client/patient must purchase it from a pharmacy and apply it themselves before arriving for a treatment. If a stronger formulation is required the therapist is required to inform her client/patient on what is

Schedule 5.

Schedule 6.

Schedule 7.

Schedule 8.

Schedule 9.

Schedule 10/ Appendix C.

needed and refer them to a doctor to request a script. That script then can be taken by the patient to a compound pharmacist who can prepare the script with their name and for their use only. The patient/client then purchases the compounded anaesthetic, applies it and proceeds to the clinic for their treatment.

While we recognise that this process is bulky and has its restrictions it is the requirement of the current law. If you are practising otherwise, you are in breach of the law and you can be heavily fined.

Furthermore, the APAN Code of Ethics also requires that you practices within the regulatory guidelines of your State - there is no escaping.

However this position is not legal at the moment so APAN is taking the following action to try and bring about a change in law: ! Talking with various State Governments, their regulatory bodies and other stake holders to try and review this position . ! Introduce a solid education program in the safe use of topical anaesthetics for all practitioners who require their use to perform their treatments to achieve the necessary level of client comfort. This educational program has been carefully designed by Chris Testa to help practitioners better understand the risks of anaesthetic use, how

In that way we can best support a collaborative relationship between the aesthetics/cosmetic tattoo practitioner and the medical practitioner for the best possible outcome for the patient, while still remaining within regulatory guidelines.

We believe that in moving forward as an industry we need to demonstrate to regulators that our industry is committed to improving their knowledge and education. As we continue to improve our education and standard this will allow APAN to pursue better solutions for our practitioners.

Education and standards compliance are key to this process, as is the understanding that these matters take time. However, consistently raising the standards and persevering will ultimately pay off. If you are currently practising any procedure that requires the use of anaesthetics we urge you to please enrol to do The Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetic Course (see page 113 for details).

RACTITI There is no escaping the requirements of the law, however, we should not resign to the limitations of the past, but prepare for potential positive change for the future through advancing our education.

For further details visit the APAN website (apanetwork.com) and click on Information about the Anaesthetics Course.

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HOW DO WE OVERCOME THESE CHALLENGES? In reviewing the current laws we can see that the client/patient can directly purchase topical anaesthetics as directed. This means that a totally unqualified, uneducated and untrained person can apply topical anaesthetics to themselves. In APAN’s opinion this is a potentially dangerous and life threatening action. APAN's position is that adequately trained and qualified aesthetic practitioners should be legally allowed to apply topical anaesthetics that are prescribed to and brought in by their clients. This does not affect the current system of prescribing and purchasing. What it does address is the current laws about the way topical anaesthetics are meant to be applied.

be delivered, location of the procedure, duration of the treatment and potential script recommendations for the doctor’s consideration.

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Schedule 4.

This Schedule is intentionally blank.

Pharmacy Medicine – Substances, the safe use of which may require advice from a pharmacist and which should be available from a pharmacy or, where a pharmacy service is not available, from a licensed person.

Pharmacist Only Medicine – Substances, the safe use of which requires professional advice but which should be available to the public from a pharmacist without a prescription.

Prescription Only Medicine, or Prescription Animal Remedy – Substances, the use or supply of which should be by or on the order of persons permitted by State or Territory legislation to prescribe and should be available from a pharmacist on prescription.

Caution – Substances with a low potential for causing harm, the extent of which can be reduced through the use of appropriate packaging with simple warnings and safety directions on the label.

Poison – Substances with a moderate potential for causing harm, the extent of which can be reduced through the use of distinctive packaging with strong warnings and safety directions on the label.

Dangerous Poison – Substances with a high potential for causing harm at low exposure and which require special precautions during manufacture, handling or use. These poisons should be available only to specialised or authorised users who have the skills necessary to handle them safely. Special regulations restricting their availability, possession, storage or use may apply.

Controlled Drug – Substances which should be available for use but require restriction of manufacture, supply, distribution, possession and use to reduce abuse, misuse and physical or psychological dependence.

Prohibited Substance – Substances which may be abused or misused, the manufacture, possession, sale or use of which should be prohibited by law except when required for medical or scientific research, or for analytical, teaching or training purposes with approval of Commonwealth and/or State or Territory Health Authorities.

Substances of such danger to health as to warrant prohibition of sale, supply and use - Substances which are prohibited for the purpose or purposes listed for each poison.

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Schedule 3.

Further, to assist with a smooth professional interfacing with a prescribing medical practitioner, APAN is currently developing templates for graduates of this Topical Anaesthetic Course. The templates will include information on the nature of the procedure to

STHETI AE C

Schedule 1.

Schedule 2.

to identify reactions, the chemistry of anaesthetics and how they differ in action.

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memberprofile

Gippsland Cosmetic Laser Clinic AN INSPIRATIONAL SUCCESS STORY They say that there is nothing like having experienced a pain to fully appreciate a solution, and this is definitely true for Anita Turner. Suffering from excessive hair, her experience of laser hair reduction was life-changing, so much so that she decided to explore a career change from nursing to aesthetics and dermal therapies. Without a doubt setting up Gippsland Cosmetic Laser Clinic in Warragul regional Victoria was the best decision she ever made. In just three years the business has moved from strength-to-strength, resulting in establishing a second clinic and winning several business awards.

On the occasion of achieving Victorian Finalist in the 2016 Telstra Australian Business Awards we caught up with Anita Turner and her husband, Daniel Calabro, to share with us their business and professional experiences.

APJ Q1: WHAT ARE THE MOST REWARDING THINGS ABOUT SETTING UP YOUR OWN BUSINESS – SHARE WITH US YOUR EXPERIENCE, WHY AND HOW IT HAPPENED? At the time of starting my business I had been a registered nurse for 13 years. Developing a business was a massive learning curve, but my passion for wanting to help people receive safe and effective laser treatments is what motivated me to work hard and achieve my goals. My passion came out of receiving laser treatments myself a few years prior and discovering how lifechanging the treatments can be. I suffered from self-esteem issues

relating to body hair, and receiving laser hair reduction treatments literally changed my life. I couldn't help but tell everyone I knew about how wonderful laser is, and encouraged them to travel to Melbourne for treatment. Soon after I discovered that Victoria has no regulations around laser and light therapy and I subsequently became reluctant to continue recommending the treatment.

As a healthcare professional I understand the need for training, competency, compliance, protocols and evidenced-based practice in everything that you do. I was shocked that there was no independent body to enforce standards within the laser industry in Victoria. With the encouragement of friends and colleagues I decided to travel to Sydney to undertake training in Laser and Light therapy and upon returning in mid 2013 opened the first laser clinic in the Gippsland region. The clinic is based on a healthcare model, and employes only registered nurses with training in laser and light therapy and many with post graduate qualifications in cosmetic nursing and also dermal therapies. We now operate two clinics one in West Gippsland and another in the Latrobe Valley. At present our clinics, are the only businesses where Gippsland nurses who hold cosmetic or dermal therapy qualifications can gain employment.

APJ Q2: WHAT SERVICES DO YOU PROVIDE AND DO YOU SPECIALISE IN A PARTICULAR AREA? We provide a diverse range of laser treatments, including hair reduction, pigmentation removal, including benign pigmented

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lesions. We also offer treatment for vascular problems, including broken capillaries, spider veins, cherry angiomas, port-wine stains and diffuse redness. Tattoo removal and radio-frequency skin tightening are also popular treatments, as are laser skin tightening, fractionated radiofrequency treatments for skin texture improvement, scar reduction, striae, acne management and deeper pigmentation issues. Other treatments on offer include carbon peels, IPL skin rejuvenation, LED therapy, PRP and skin needing for skin rejuvenation and hair restoration, as well as cosmetic injectables.

APJ Q3: WHAT DO YOU LOVE THE MOST ABOUT YOUR WORK AND HOW DO YOU ENSURE THAT THE STAFF DELIVER UNIFORM STANDARDS AND MEET WITH THEIR BUSINESS TARGET OBJECTIVES?

BEHAVIOUR THAT DEMONSTRATED YOUR VALUES IN ACTION. As we provide a high level of treatment outcome throughout our services the decision to employ registered nurses to perform all our treatments, and to use the best TGA-approved technology and high-quality products have challenged the business financially.

Many establishments take advantage of Australia's lack of industry regulations to increase profit margins. Our business could potentially save over $100k in wages each year by employing entry-level therapists. Additionally, we could have reduced set-up costs by close to $500k if we purchased inferior quality or refurbished devices without TGA approval. We could also dramatically increase our profit margin if we used inferior quality injectable products. However, we made the decision not to compromise our integrity and to operate to the highest standards of best practice. We deliberately prioritise quality and safety above increasing profit at any cost.

I love helping people to feel better about themselves. I also love providing a friendly and co-operative workplace for my staff. I think the most important way to achieve high uniform standards is to employ well. We have a very thorough interview and assessment process when employing new nurses. For us we are looking for individuals who are already outstanding both in their professional and personal lives, we want high achievers who are strong patient advocates and always willing to give their role 110%. We do not look for experience in sales. We believe that our healthcare-oriented model works well because our focus from start to finish is on what is best for the client. There is no pressure on nurses to reach any kind of sales target as we passionately believe that exclusively focusing on client care has a flow-on effect that produces great client satisfaction and loyalty, which APJ Q5. HOW DOES YOUR BUSINESS APPROACH results in good economic outcomes. It is also satisfying for our CHALLENGES? PROVIDE AN EXAMPLE TO HELP nurses, who are able to perform exclusively in the role that they ILLUSTRATE HOW YOU REMOVED OBSTACLES TO were trained in, and enjoy, which is patient care.

ACHIEVING SUCCESS.

We believe that allowing nurses to focus on what they do best and enjoy the most helps to build work satisfaction, as well as achieve dedication and loyalty to the clinic. To ensure everyone is always up-to-date with the latest resources and treatment protocols we provide all clinical and non-clinical staff with a weekly newsletter containing all relevant information. We call this our 'Weekly wrap'. We also conduct a weekly whole clinic Skype conference on Wednesday mornings, so that all staff and management can have a face-to-face meeting about any issues that need addressing, and to make sure we are all keeping in touch and supporting each other across the two clinics. All clinic standards and protocols are stored on a cloud-based network so that they can be quickly and easily accessed on all computers and tablets throughout the two clinics.

With Gippsland Cosmetic Laser Clinic still in its infancy, we regularly face challenges arising from new scenarios, such as previously unseen presentations in clients, challenges associated with operating over two locations, financial dilemmas, technological hiccups, etc. We have worked hard to develop a

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APJ Q4. TELL US ABOUT A SITUATION WHERE YOUR BUSINESS HAD TO TAKE A STAND ON ONE OF YOUR VALUES, OR DISPLAYED

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and desire to support colleagues when necessary, and a better sense of ownership among the entire group.

APJ Q7. WHY IS YOUR BUSINESS RELEVANT TODAY AND HOW ARE YOU ENSURING IT WILL REMAIN RELEVANT IN FIVE YEARS' TIME? INCLUDE ANY RISKS YOU HAVE IDENTIFIED AND HOW YOU PLAN TO MANAGE AND MITIGATE THEM.

team that possesses a sense of ownership, and therefore call upon collective thinking to overcome these challenges. An example is when we first established our second clinic a need arose to develop systems for better client management. Our staff communally developed and implemented a cloud-based administration system, including appointment management, client data, treatment records, protocols/procedures, clinic information and more.

APJ Q6. WHAT'S THE MOST VALUABLE LESSON YOU'VE LEARNT? SHARE WITH US ABOUT SUCCESSES AND FAILURES. We have learnt many lessons since beginning this business. Some lessons arose from a need, as the business grew. Others were learnt as a result of making mistakes. These mistake-driven lessons have been the most challenging and upsetting, but pivotal in helping us take steps forward. One such lesson came from the employment of an unsuitable staff member. This employee possessed many wonderful qualities, however, as time went on it became evident that while this person had wonderful technical and academic abilities, her attitude was beginning to have a negative impact on the team. Before too long the work environment was becoming unpleasant due to irresponsible and immature social behaviour. After a number of issues, we decided to terminate her employment, which we found extremely difficult on a personal level.

We learnt the importance of introducing the right personality into the workplace, and have since made this one of the major determining factors when employing new staff. We have also implemented many more strategies to encourage healthy working relationships and respect among staff. Creating a caring work environment has resulted in greater unified productivity, willingness

The beauty industry has been consistently growing globally over the past decades. Technological advancements have introduced the possibility of achieving new levels of treatment outcomes with the ability to provide a diverse range of services. Treatments are more effective, faster, with less downtime and greater affordability than ever before, offering accessibility to a broadening demographic. Many advancements are still widely unknown to some demographics, particularly in regional areas, and we are constantly witnessing firsthand the rapid uptake of these contemporary solutions as they become known to the public. Gippsland Cosmetic Laser Clinic is committed to remaining up-to-date in our education and knowledge so that we can continue to offer relevant solutions to our consumers through the use of advanced technologies and techniques.

The Government is soon introducing regulations on the use of lasers in the beauty industry. It is expected that regulations will apply strict rules regarding who can operate lasers, and which lasers can be used. This will dramatically change the industry, and will affect a number of large and small businesses. We anticipated these changes from the outset, establishing our business to conform to QLD regulations, in-line with proposed national standards as there are currently none in Victoria. Our decision to

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employ highly qualified staff and to purchase TGA approved devices, while financially challenging, will buffer us against the impact of regulatory change.

Gippsland Cosmetic Laser Clinic clients will not be affected because our prices, s t a ff i n g , e q u i p m e n t c h o i c e a n d procedures have been established in readiness for change.

APJ Q8: PROFITABILITY OR GROWTH? WHICH IS MORE IMPORTANT FOR YOUR BUSINESS AND WHY? Each of these outcomes is equally important in our opinion. As a new business we aim to grow, however, consistent profitability will give us the confidence to expand our vision.

organisation like APAN exists for the beauty and cosmetic sector too. It is also great value to have industry advice and support via email or phone when needed. I think it's wonderful that APAN are behind its members, and doing everything to ensure the Australian aesthetic industry is striving to be ethical and responsible for the benefit of the whole community.

It is of the utmost importance to us that GCLC provides clients with the best possible experience. This ethos places responsibility on us to ensure clients are safe, comfortable and achieving desired outcomes. Satisfying this responsibility costs money, and we do not wish to cut corners in order to increase our profit margin. We are observing several businesses in our industry that are offering APJ Q11: I BELIEVE THAT YOU HAVE THE SUPPORT OF dramatically lower prices, but this comes at the cost of safety and YOUR HUSBAND – WHAT ROLE DOES HE PLAY IN THE client satisfaction – something we do not wish to sacrifice for BUSINESS? profit.

My husband, Daniel Calabro, joined the team in 2015. He has In the face of competitive pricing we have still managed to played a huge role in the business's success. His role is primarily maintain growth and good profit margins, providing us with the to do with advertising and marketing strategy, including all social confidence to open a second clinic. Therefore our growth relies on media. He is also responsible for HR compliance, payroll and consumers continuing to prioritise the quality of their client accounts. His job is a huge undertaking in an area outside of my experience above price, and in this industry this is highly feasible expertise and I am incredibly grateful and appreciative of his hard as many people do not wish to take risks with their appearance. work.

Once regulatory changes have been introduced the industry will Congratulations to Anita and Daniel for their amazing change, and this will be the time to evaluate our next stage of achievements.

We wish them every success and continued growth. progress in the future as they make their mark in their community APJ Q9: TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE SUCCESS OF and provide an excellent role-model for other aspiring businesses in the professional world of aesthetics.

YOUR BUSINESS?

I think our success is primarily due to the high standards and client-focused care exhibited though our nurses. When it comes to cosmetic treatments, I think that people want to feel that they are in safe hands, and that treatment decisions are based on what is in their best interests, rather than what is in the economic interest of that practitioner, or clinic as a whole.

Gippsland Cosmetic Laser Clinic Ph: 03 5622 1579 Email: dan.calabro@icloud.com

APJ Q10: WHY DID YOU JOIN APAN AND WHAT BENEFITS DO YOU BELIEVE THEY CAN PROVIDE YOUR BUSINESS?

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We feel it is really important to have a reliable and trustworthy source of information about the industry that we are in, what is currently happening, and where it is likely to go. We feel that the training opportunities and conferences are very important also. This is something that we are used to and expect in the healthcare sector, and it's fantastic that an

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apanconference

APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE BRISBANE

Wrap-up Report

It was a wonderful sunny spring morning on Sunday 22nd May when industry professionals arrived at the beautifully appointed Stamford Plaza in Brisbane to attend APAN's first Aesthetics Conference for the year.

The lectures were on the theme - Get ready for Positive Change outlining new developments as the industry is constantly evolving and advancing with greater possibilities as well as risks.

In her opening address on The New Standards Revolution Tina Viney presented some interesting data on consumer shifts, and specifically, information on how skincare manufacturers are focusing on formulations that will mimic the prestige and professional brands.

She addressed strategies of overcoming these threats and why the industry needs to remain one step ahead of these changes by embracing high standards to ensure that consumers continue to turn to them as trusted professionals. Tina also stressed the need for external validated standards recognition and the goals and objectives of both the new ARAP Accreditation program as well as the QIP program for clinics and salons.

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This event also unveiled the APAN/THINK PINK SKIN AND WELLNESS month project. The new industry initiative that was launched this year to help businesses secure more clients while assisting in raising valuable funds for breast cancer sufferers.

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Following this lecture Dr Michael Freeman spoke on the Latest innovations in Dermatological Therapies.

He presented new research findings on ingredients and discussed how they are providing therapeutic solutions for acute and chronic skin disorders.

Dr Freeman's presentation attracted a great deal of interest and APAN is pursuing the development of further educational topics through a more formal alliance with Dr Freeman and Cosmetic Dermatology.

With the introduction of the new salon/clinic accreditation program through QIP we were delighted to have Stacy Kambouris present a lecture of The Benefits of Accrediting your Business.

The issue of benchmarking protocols and procedures against independent standards was raised and how these can strengthen a business's brand integrity and contribute to client loyalty.

Directly after lunch Gay Wardle teamed up with Lynette Rouse to discuss The Power of the Amazing Cell Membrane.

This was an interactive session with both ladies taking turn to discuss the activity of the cell membrane and the role it plays in permitting the penetration of active ingredients into the cell, as well as how and why a faulty membrane can inhibit penetration and ways of addressing that.

Following this lecture Dr Ingrid Tall talked about various procedures that will improve skin and more youthful features. Dr Tall talked about how new innovative techniques using various technologies and injectables are now able to achieve a natural, fresher and more youthful look and how these treatments are becoming more appealing and accessible to an constantly increasing number of consumers.

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Our last speaker was Billy Rickman who is passionate about businesses improving their bottom line.

He presented several strategies on how to engage clients and grow your sales figures.

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Tina Viney and Angela Todd presenting Irena Morgenstern with a special honorary award

HONORARY AWARD APAN was delighted to present Irena Morgenstern with a special honorary award acknowledging her as the first graduate in Australia to achieve graduation through the government-funded Industry Skills Fund Program for the following qualifications: NAT10038 Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies.

This qualification covers competencies in skin rejuvenation, vascular, pigmentation and tattoo removal.

Congratulations to Irena for this achievement.

There were several companies and training institutions supporting the event as exhibitors who had a wonderful opportunity to network, build relationships and gain new clients. The day provided great education, amazing food and an opportunity for fun and networking for all.

If you have never attended an APAN Aesthetics Conference we have one more to be staged in Perth, Western Australia on Sunday 23rd October. See pages 38-41 for further details.

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It’s our mission to make people feel wonderful We do this by providing all beauty salons with the opportunity to experience the latest in cutting-edge beauty technology with an emphasis on quality and innovation at the best possible price. Our extensive equipment range, flexible financing and personalised customer service ensures each and every client feels they are receiving the very best that the industry has to offer.

Phone 1300 006 607 or enquire online by visiting www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au

VenusConcept delivering the promise

post-graduatetraining

APAN Launches another successful workshop for Cosmetic Tattooists

DESIGNER EYEBROWS MASTERCLASS

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Education is paramount for all professionals and this includes cosmetic tattooists. As part of their commitment to the advancement of education and in support of Cosmetic Tattooists APAN staged another master class.

On Monday 23rd May following the APAN Aesthetics Conference in Brisbane several cosmetic tattooist from Queensland, Northern Territory, Victoria and New Zealand attended a workshop to master the latest hybrid techniques in designer eyebrows that included feather stroking.

The event was held at ClinicalPro headquarters in Brisbane and included both theory and practical training. The prerequisite for training was that students had to be qualified cosmetic tattooists in order to attend this training.

Delivering the training was none other than Tina Hammond. Tina is a qualified Cosmetic Tattooist and brow specialist with a passion for brows for which she has become renowned and has won the Award for Best Cosmetic Tattooist three years in a row – from 20102013. With over 25 years of experience in hair and beauty she brings a great deal of artistry to her work that has achieved amazing transformations for many.

Tina shared her techniques with the students who were able to perfect their own skills on their own models.

We were also delighted to have Christine Comans join us from Western Australia. Christine is also one of our Cosmetic Tattoo masters, who specialises in medical cosmetic tattooing and in particular in nipple areola procedure, which she performs on breast-cancer patients. Christine is the APAN CTARP co-ordinator – the national registration classification specifically for cosmetic tattooists.

Always supportive and a great inspiration to many, Christine attended both the conference and the Designer Eyebrow Master Class to assist in the supervision of students and in any way that she could.

Needless to say many of the "students" could not resist getting their own eyebrows perfected leading to a very long day that finished around 8pm.

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APAN's objective is to raise the standards of the industry. We strive to do this by providing both conferences and educational platforms for learning and professional development. We are also advocates of the importance of government-

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approved qualifications wherever possible.

As times are changing so the issue of regulations is becoming more important and gaining momentum.

However, regulations can be a two-edged sword – they can both benefit, or impact the industry in ways that may disadvantage it. Highquality education that can be clearly benchmarked through qualifications is the best way to protect the industry. It will also assist APAN with its ongoing pursuit for regulations that can secure a better future for the industry.

If you are a cosmetic tattooists please consider joining our community of practice. Register as an CTARP Practitioner and help us protect your future. You can access an application form by visiting http://apanetwork.com/ctarp/.

If you require further information please phone 07 5593 0360 and speak to a friendly consultant.

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starperformer

RAISING THE BAR Gold in your hands When is a soap not a soap? When it's from the ZADOR Mineral Bar Collection of course. True works of fine art in every way, these luxurious hand-crafted cleansing bars are creamy, vividly coloured, exquisitely fragrant and divinely hand wrapped. They are made using the triple-milled method, which ensures their outward beauty, their exceptional smooth feel and sensational glossy look. This is an original process of soap making that has been handed down over time from traditional French soap makers.

HOW BEST TO DESCRIBE THESE RARE GEMS? Opulent and heavenly, distinctive and extraordinary.

For a wealth of beauty and wellness benefits, each contains the priceless healing and regenerative properties of the famous Heviz medicinal thermal waters. Europe's largest hot spring, Heviz is recognised the world over for its unique high mineral content. Sulphur, iron, iodine, calcium, magnesium and other magical minerals surface from a depth of 1,000 metres to reach their final destination ‌ the ZADOR cleansing bars.

Loaded with Vitamins from A to K, these deeply nourishing, moisturising, repairing and protecting bars contain other skin stars, including restorative and hydrating Shea Butter, age-fighting Pistachio Oil, a rich source of essential fatty acids, and Vitamin E, soothing Calendula and Chamomile Extracts and precious oils such as Grapeseed, Olive and Wheatgerm.

The flawless ZADOR Collection features eight (8) cleansing bars, including Pure, two (2) gloriously decadent and exceptional pairings of Fig Pear and Lavender-Verbena and five (5) equally memorable singles of Cherry Blossom, Cocoa, Paprika, Red Grape and Rose that graze the skin like a soft brushstroke.

lush, its fusion conjures up the balmy days of summer. A unique unisex aroma.

LAVENDER-VERBENA: For a harmony of restfulness with undeniable freshness. Inviting and unexpected, the crisp notes of Verbena perfectly balance Lavender's serenity.

CHERRY BLOSSOM: A symbol of eternal spring, this classic calms and harmonises, yet epitomises the flirty and the feminine.

COCOA: For sweet temptation and pleasure. Provocative and pampering with the cell rejuvenating and circulation benefits.

PAPRIKA: For the absolute in a stimulating shower. Sultry and spicy overtones mingle in a marriage of depth and distinction.

Inner thighs, tummy and cellulite prone areas will welcome its effects.

RED GRAPE: Brings a timeless adventure to everyday life.

One of the original in the collection, its memorable fragrance also makes it perfect for the male in your life.

ROSE: The queen of scents and the universal symbol of love.

Whispers of its swooning floral boosts the mood and nurtures spirit and soul. Its Rose scent comes from Europe's most elite perfumery.

Making the perfect gift, these cleansing bars are matches made in bathing heaven, are elegant and impeccable and almost too PURE: The soft touch of nature offers the gentlest of care for the pretty to use, well almost. They gently cleanse the body most sensitive and fragile skins. It combines ZADOR's most lathering generously with hints of fragrance that delicately natural cleansing ingredients with hypo-allergenic and skin- linger. identical lipids and is free of chemicals and fragrances.

FIG-PEAR: Fascinating for the senses, its fusion of the mystic and the fruity energises the entire body. Sweet and smokey yet

For more information please email info@vogueimage.com.au, call 1 800 554 545 or visit www.vogueimage.com.au.

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VIRGIN TERRITORY – Definitely... with the

and head on back to work immediately afterwards.

SKEYNDOR DermaPeelPRO Facial

To kick-start the hour-long treatment, skin is cleansed and toned with SKEYNDOR products suited to skin type. The transformation then begins with an application of Diamond micro-particles in the Diamond Micro-abrasive Exfoliant which is applied all over face and décolleté.

A BEAUTY EDITOR'S EXPERIENCE Beauty editors are often invited by SKEYNDOR to experience their new and innovative products and treatments so that they can communicate and share it with their readers. Here is how one editor noted her experience:

THE REVOLUTIONARY TREATMENT

The dermabrasion stage is intensified with the Ultrasonic Spatula to deeply cleanse the pores and enhance elimination of dead surface-cell build-up, toxins and impurities.

SKEYNDOR's DermaPeelPRO facial is the hottest treatment that everyone will be raving about for a radical and radiant skin Next, an acids and enzymes solution is applied to further rid the skin of ageing and dullness, dead surface layers and other sins by comeback. reducing cell adhesion.

Casting off dead, dull surface layers, it breathes brand-new life to those cells in the waiting line for a profound regenerating action. A Biological Peel is then applied to stimulate skin renovation at a And results in a dramatic improvement in fine lines, acne, sun- deeper level and encourage healthy, faster cell turnover.

Penetration of the Peel (encapsulated peptides) is boosted with triggered discolouration and more. massage or by using the SKEYNDOR Meso-Science.

In just minutes, the unique enzymes and acids in this facial lift away dead cells and triggers a chain reaction. As the topmost A post-peel Neutralising Mask is applied to rebalance pH and layer is shed, signals are sent to the lower layers to 'behave condition the skin. younger” … stimulating collagen, hyaluronic acid levels and The DermaPeelPRO finishes with the appropriate SKEYNDOR boosting new skin-cell activity. day cream and an application of BB Cream SPF15 to protect the Giving the skin a thorough sloughing, DermaPeelPRO offers an complexion. immediate upshot: smoother skin that's more radiant and more receptive to the skin treatment to follow. Plus, products perform The result is a spotless complexion, so perky and clean we could much better after a peel as there are no dead cells obstructing their go days without foundation. This was an amazing experience with even more amazing results. penetration.

Another advantage of the SKEYNDOR DermaPeelPRO facial is that it is completely non-invasive, so there is no recovery time or after-session redness. Experience at lunch-time, for example,

For a SKEYNDOR DermaPeelPRO trial please call 1800 554 545.

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productinnovations

Opulent and Heavenly, Distinctive and Extraordinary

NEW Retractable Brow Pencil by jane iredale The new Retractable Brow Pencils, by Jane Iredale containing vitamins C and E, expertly fill and define brows with an ultra-fine 1.7mm retractable precision tip to create hair-line strokes. Use the expert shaping spoolie on the opposite end for blending and grooming. The long-lasting formula is waterproof and stays put without smudging. Available in three medium coverage shades that are realistic and blend with natural hair colouring: Dark Brunette, Blonde and Brunette. The new Retractable Brow Pencils retails at $36 and is a must-have for those who value precision and perfectly shaped eyebrows.

Contact MargiFox Distributors phone 1300 850 008 visit www.margifox.com.au

For a wealth of beauty and wellness benefits, each ZADOR cleansing bars contains the priceless healing and regenerative properties of the famous Heviz medicinal thermal waters. Europe's largest hot spring, it is recognised the world over for its unique high mineral content. Sulphur, iron, iodine, calcium, magnesium and other magical minerals surface from a depth of 1,000 metres to reach their final destination - the ZADOR cleansing bars. Loaded with Vitamins from A to K, these deeply nourishing, moisturising, repairing and protecting bars contain other skin stars including restorative and hydrating Shea Butter, age-fighting Pistachio Oil, a rich source of essential fatty acids and Vitamin E, soothing Calendula and Chamomile Extracts and precious oils such as Grapeseed, Olive and Wheatgerm.

These have proven to be guarantee sellers.

Contact VOGUE IMAGE GROUP 1800 554 545.

Email:info@vogueimage.com.au or visit www.vogueimage.com.au

Laser Sapphire – Next Generation Laser Technology With more consumers choosing permanent hair reduction solutions over waxing and shaving, the sophisticated Laser Sapphire device provides the perfect fit for salons, spas and clinics seeking to modernise their treatment menu and welcome in a whole new range of clientele.

Equipt with a built-in Depil-Ice® skin cooling system that reaches an impressive -7° C for superior patient comfort, this savvy diode laser device performs professional permanent hair reduction treatments for the face and body on skin types I-VI thanks to adjustable parameters that offer short and longer pulses to suit a range of skin types.

When it comes to operator comfort, the Laser Sapphire doesn't miss a beat either. Its lightweight, ergonomic handpiece weighs just 630 grams to alleviate fatigue when performing treatments and also features an innovative pyramidal-shaped tip to grant superior access to hard to reach areas like the upper lip. The flexibility of short sweeping, long sweeping and stamping mode applications make treating clients easier, more comfortable and faster than ever.

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Tie all of that in with a10-inch LCD touch screen navigation, preconfigured settings for treating common skin types and 1,200 watts of power output and you have an impressively dynamic laser hair reduction system that works hard to grow your business ,while keeping your clients hair-free and your running costs down.

For further information, specs and flexible payment plan options on the Laser Sapphire permanent hair reduction system, call The Global Beauty Group on 1300 006 607 or visit www.TheGlobalBeautyGroup.com.au

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Young Again with TRINITY PLUS Trinity Plus is the most advanced skincare system for your clinic or salon. It provide a synergy of three medical patented technologies all in the one device including, VAM for toning and reducing the appearance of cellulite, OPE to rejuvenate skin, treat acne and reduce hair on the face and body and Young Again, the next generation in LED phototherapy. Treat a wide range of skin concerns for the face and body with different applications and easy to use and through pre-programmed settings. Trinity Plus is at the forefront of medical and aesthetic technology, designed in Italy and supported with ongoing software upgrades. This device will make achieving advanced results a breeze.

Contact Medical Formulations on 07 3376 7998 Email: sales@medicalformulations.com.au www.medicalformulations.com.au

THE POWER OF A WORKPLACE AGREEMENT APAN regularly receives phone calls from distressed business owners who complain about misconduct from a staff member, with a very common one being, a staff is leaving, or left and has taken valuable clients from the business. Are you protected from such incidents? The stress, not to mention the cost to a business can be quite alarming.

APAN has developed several documents (35) to remove this stress from businesses – from HR Policies and Procedures document to various warning letters, staff development documents, Time sheets and even interviewing documents developed by a HR expert to help businesses identify the right staff member. Our aim is to help streamline a business's operation so that they can concentrate on their business growth. Staffing problems are often the result of miscommunication or a lack of clarify of expectations and permissible and not-permissible conduct. Do you operate your business with a clearly written and Fair Work compliant HR Agreement document for every staff member?

APAN is here to help you.

For a small fee you can access the right documents for you and gain peace of mind. We also provide you with numerous other benefits, wage advice and legal support. Phone APAN today to speak to a consultant 07 5593 0360.

Using the power of Adaptogens BIOELMENTS launches fortified skincare range Have you ever heard of adaptogens? They are actually a group of ingredients, rather than a single substance.

Adaptogens are plant extracts that increase the body's ability to resist the damaging effects of stress and promote or restore normal physiological function. Bioelements have harnessed the power of a group of adaptogen plants, bringing restorative benefits to the skin. They have being formulating skincare with adaptogens since 1991. Many products feature a blend of ginseng, gotu kola, dong quai, watercress and Chinese herbs, as they work together to naturally balance, strengthen the skin, reduce wrinkles and encourage the skin to heal itself. Another adaptogen is licorice that has been found to counteract inflammation and irritation, which is why Bioelements uses it in Calmitude Hydrating Solution and Stress Solution as well as more products designed to soothe skin. These and several other adaptogen herbs are included in the new BIOELEMENTS skincare range.

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For more information on BIOELEMENTS skincare and their famous customised system contact Absolute Spa 03 9464 4466.

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starperformer

Introducing Med-QLaserTM – The smooth operator TM

Recently released the Med-QLaser Q-Switched Nd: YAG laser system is creating a great deal of excitement in the world of cosmetic medical and aesthetics. Able to successful treat pigmented lesions, skin rejuvenation and tattoo removal, it delivers amazing results with a high degree of safety and efficacy.

The system has an optimal clinical treatment effect with the following parameter designs:

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Dual-wavelength switching of 1064nm and 532nm, pulse width short to 5nm and energy output up to 1000mj.

Med-QLaserTM is also integrated to real-time energy monitor, energy auto-changing by an adjustable handpiece and water filtration system that providing a high degree of safety and efficacy ef during use. The new UI design makes the user experience a breeze with its simple and convenient operational features.

LEADING ADVANT ADV ADVANTAGES ANTAGES ANT AGES OF THE MED-QLASERTM

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PRINCIPLE OF TREATMENT The treatment principle for addressing pigmented lesions with the Q-Switched Nd: YAG Laser therapy system lies in selective photothermolysis with melanin as the chromophore.

Q-Switched Nd:YAG has higher peak power and nanosecond nanoseconds-level pulse width. Melanin in melanophore and cuticle formed cells have a short hot relaxation time. It can immediately make small selectively ener energy absorbed granules (tattoo pigment

This cutting-edge device offers several advantage over other technologies:

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T Two stages Nd:YAG Nd:Y laser system with electro-optic Q-Switched technology that output high energy.

The designs adopt capacity optimised schedule make the pulse width as short as 5ns, delivering double output power energy gy. density under the same energy.

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It provides an internal integrated laser monitor system that sets warning signals when energy deviates over the appropriate threshold. This ensures treatment safety and efficacy.

Provides a seven-joints optical articulated arm with adjustable handpiece. It offers spotsize settings from 2 to 10mm, while the energy synchronously changes following the setting spot size.

Provides flat-top beam output, uniformly distributing spot energy without any heat point.

This feature allow it to achieve better treatment outcomes and less injury.

1. Melanin granules in skin

TGA Approved

2. Melanin granules’ absorbing laser energy

3. Instantaneously blasted of melanin granules

and melanin melanin) blast without injuring surrounded normal tissues. The blasted pigment granules will be eexcreted from the body through the circulatory system.

AUSTRALIAN AND INTERNATIONAL CERTIFICATIONS Med-QLaser T M offers excellent performance that is safe and reliable.

Furthermore, is has successfully achieved leading national and international certifications: Medical CE certification, Australian TGA and CFDA in the US, while its unique design has earned multiple global patents.

For further details contact Ausmed International P/L Ph: 02 8957 2177, Mob: 0424 795 652 www.ausmedlaser.com.au APJ 66

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Med-QLaser

TM

Q-Switched ND:

YAG Laser Therapy System

For Effective Removal of Tattoos and Pigmented Lesions Med-QLaser TM is a new-generation device integrated with real-time energy monitor, energy auto-changing by adjustable handpiece, water filtration system, guaranteeing safety and efficacy during usage. It offers dual-wavelength switching of 1064nm and 532nm pulse width shot to 5nm and energy output up to 1000mJ. New UI ergonomic design makes user experience simpler and more convenient.

ACHIEVED CERTIFICATION FROM:

] FDA ] Medical CE ] Australian TGA ] Multiple global patents

* Safe * Reliable * Excellent performance Delivers optimal clinical treatment outcomes

TGA Approved

TM

Med-QLaser

– When only the best will do

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Tel/Fax,02 8957 2177 Mobile: 0424 795 652

www.ausmedlaser.com.au

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cosmetictattooing

PIGMENT SAFETY REVIEW The Buzz on Organic Verses Inorganic – What does this really mean?

By Christine Comans – APAN Co-ordinator Katherine McCann M.HRM B.Sc. Science Ignorance is no excuse when it comes to pigment safety and ingredient confusion, with concerns being raised over incorrect advice, use and application due to a number of highly publicised botched tattooing procedures and an overall lack of awareness around what is actually being inserted into the skin.

In recent times, the spotlight shines brightly on Cosmetic Tattooing and debate continues to rage over industry regulation, ingredient classification and ambiguous merchant labelling. Sophisticated marketing techniques and products are also on the rise, compounding the level of confusion being felt by professionals when it comes to the selection of 'the best' products as well as their composite breakdown and correct application for use during cosmetic tattooing procedures.

In the Cosmetic Tattoo industry, we all strive to achieve great results for our clients and in order to do so it is imperative to peel back the marketing and layers of manufacturer propaganda in order to identify what our intended purpose is and understand why we choose one product over another.

In this article Christine Comans and Katherine McCann take a closer look at the two separate categories of Pigments (both Organic and Inorganic) and attempt to demystify common assumptions, as well as clarify from a chemistry perspective some important considerations for professionals when choosing their desired pigment range. (Specific recommendations will be not be made as this is intended as information only.)

ORGANIC AND INORGANIC PIGMENTS Cosmetic tattoo pigments are split into two separate categories, organic (Lakes) and inorganic (Iron Oxides); both are available in a wide variety of colours, however, understanding the ingredients for the use of cosmetic tattooing will determine the outcome of either semi-permanent or permanent designs. Other than classification

based in their chemical composition dyes can be classified according to their molecular size, being either nanoparticular, macroparticular or anything in between. Most are classified as nanoparticles.

Organic Pigments: It should be noted that the term 'organic' for cosmetic tattooing pigments is used in a chemistry context and should not be confused by marketing terms that imply the products are natural or chemical free, as this is not the case. Organic simply means that these pigments contain a carbon-based molecule. Please remember that this is purely a chemistry term that has absolutely nothing to do with our perception of the ingredients being chemical free.

Most organic pigments used by cosmetic tattooists are manufactured from carbon-based dyes (organic) precipitated by metallic salts and are called Lakes. The lake pigments are made by mixing a dye colour with an insoluble binder substrate like alumina oxide. The mixing process causes the dye to become insoluble in water, which is useful for the purpose of tattooing as it means the particles cannot be removed by a person's lymphatic system. The pigment is then combined with surfactants, carriers, thickeners and preservatives to produce the tattooing dye.

Synthetic dyes used in organic pigments are man-made, which use a wide array of substances to create the different pigment colours we use for cosmetic tattooing. These dyes are made from synthetic resources such as petroleum by-products and it is worth noting that these dyes are not pure chemicals, but may contain upwards of 10 per cent impurities. For example, yellow 5, which is the second widely used dye, may contain up to 13 per cent organic and inorganic chemicals. Did you know that these same dyes used to create cosmetic tattoo pigment colours are also used in the manufacture of coloured textiles and clothing?

Inorganic pigments contain metal oxides like iron oxide, titanium dioxide and others. These include metal plus oxygen and often some other elements too. Now, inorganic does not mean “unnatural” or “synthetic” as almost all inorganic metal oxide pigments do occur in nature as mineral compounds, but the term means non-carbon based

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molecules. The pigment colours are derived from the earth's tones of yellow, brown and red for iron oxides and white for titanium dioxide.

These pigment colours are usually duller than organic pigments, but are more resistant to heat and light and provide a longer-lasting more stable colour.

Regardless, if it’s metallic salt used in the organic pigment or/and iron oxide in the inorganic pigment both pigment lines use compounds

that are derived from the earth.

Iron sulphate is an example of a metal salt. Iron sulphate has the chemical compound of FeSO4 and is often seen in the form of bright green crystals. All salts are made from metal; a simple example is table salt or sodium chloride, the metal in which is sodium.

During the manufacture of these pigments, if the ingredients are sourced from reputable suppliers then the quality of the pigments are not considered an issue as all ingredients in pigments must undergo testing.

THE ISSUE OF PARTICLE SIZE Nanoparticles: It is widely acknowledged that tattoo pigment suspensions unquestionably contain pigments composed of nanoparticles. This means any particle with a size of less than 10 microns is classified as a nanoparticle. In addition to size, there are a number of factors that are implicated in the behaviour and possible effects of nanoparticles. These include shape, composition, state of dispersion, surface area, aggregation state and surface chemistry.

Particle sizes in tattoo pigments have been measured by laser diffraction, electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction and are divided into three broad categories, with black pigments being the smallest, white pigments being the largest and coloured pigments vary in a size in between the two.

Nanoparticles have higher levels of chemical activity than their larger particle equivalents due to higher surface area over volume ratio.

However, assessment of the toxicity of cosmetic tattoo pigments has been the subject of little research and manufacturers are not obliged to disclose the exact composition of their products. These parameters are currently proprietary information and are not disclosed in tattoo pigments, however, it is something that needs to be considered by practitioners and requires further investigation by the appropriate authorities.

In the past, tattooing has never been thought of as a method of introducing nanoparticles into the human body by the intradermal route and as such, it has never been a topic of research in nanotoxicology. The European Commission, however, has recently published an extensive report on nanoparticles and the associated risks to humans. This stemmed from a rise of tattoo pigments being found throughout the body and organs during health testing. The fact that they are migrating in the skin and entering the body via the systemic circulation/lymphatic system raised significant health concerns calling for sufficient risk assessments to be compiled and carried out. Although there is consensus that thorough and accurate particle characterisation is an essential part of assessing the potential toxicity of nanoparticles in biological systems, further research in this area is required.

THE NEED FOR REGULATION Around the world there are a number of regulatory bodies responsible for the investigation and assessment of toxicity and ingredient levels that are found in pigments and considered safe for human (insertion/consumption/absorption). It is an ongoing process, especially with the rate new products that are being brought into the market. Two of the main regulators include the Federal Food and

Drug Administration (FDA) or European Commission and in Australia the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA).

In 2003, the Council of Europe (CoE) published a resolution (ResAP), which outlines requirements and a criterion for the safety of pigment use in tattoos and permanent makeup. In 2008, the original report was superseded by a revised version (ResAP 2008).

The ResAP(2008)1 includes a list of negative substances that should not be present in tattoo and permanent makeup inks. These include colorants and aromatic amines, as well as the maximum concentrations for some impurities. The recommendation also provides criterion for the safety assessment of the used chemicals and encourages establishing a positive list of substances proved to be safe for their use under certain conditions.

Although non-binding, the ResAPs provide a reference for the development of national legislation and Member States such as France, Germany, the Netherlands, Spain and Sweden have it in place or as a draft, like Austria, Denmark and Latvia. The document is also recognised as the reference in New Zealand, but what about Australia?

Currently there is a requirement for products that are sold in the European Union (EU) to undergo testing to comply with certain parameters as set out by the Council of Europe. We are urging Australian authorities to consider adopting this resolution in a measure to protect consumers because sadly many in the industry continue to source untested products that include cheap imports, counterfeiting and non-authorised selling. This is all very prevalent and is a measure to cut costs, however, cost cutting has consequences and practitioners that are taking shortcuts generally have a lack of education. We must remember that ignorance to the laws does not limit a practitioner's liability.

YOUR PROFESSIONAL RESPONSIBILITY Our advice to APAN members who are performing cosmetic tattooing procedures, is to undertake due diligence and utilise products that have been properly (formally) tested and comply with the Council of Europe Resolution ResAP (2008) as the safety of your client or patient should be paramount.

ABOUT THE AUTHORS Christine Comans is a qualified and respected cosmetic tattooist based in Perth who specialises in medical cosmetic tattooing. She is currently undertaking the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics). Her work is highly regarded by several plastic surgeons who keep her busy through constant referrals of their patients to her for nipple areola tattooing after mastectomy and breast-reconstruction surgery. Christine is also passionate about industry standards and has been appointed as the Co-ordinator for the APAN membership classification – COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP). She is also a qualified Cosmetic Tattoo trainer and educator.

Katherine McCann is a nationally accredited cosmetic tattooist, APAN member and qualified beauty professional. She also holds tertiary postgraduate qualifications and has a strong advisory background in Human Resource Management, as well as training and Strategic Business Development. Katherine has taught at both vocational and university level and has a keen interest in micropigmentation and trauma resolution.

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companyprofile

Clairderm Medical Aesthetics A Company with an established Legacy For Excellence There is no doubt that today's consumers are looking for better and ! Clairderm Trio-Microdermabrasion more advanced results when it comes to their skin and body care.

Body-image consciousness has become mainstream and consumers are becoming familiar with treatment options available to them and are comfortable to explore these. Today's consumers want results and find it quite acceptable to resort to non-surgical appearanceenhancing procedures to address premature ageing and other concerns. This insatiable need is driving the growth of non-surgical treatment options like microdermabrasion, Hydrabrasion, Oxygen Infusion Therapy, LED, IPL and laser. In order to retain their position in the market and meet consumers' needs for superior, consistent results, aesthetic professionals need to constantly re-examine their services and treatment offerings versus their competition. It's now paramount that clinics and aesthetics professionals rely on advanced and reliable technologies that deliver the expected consumer outcomes.

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A Company with a “Legacy For Excellence”

Machine is the latest innovation in microdermabrasion equipment. It combines three technologies – Crystal, Diamond microdermabrasion and Hydrabrasion – in one machine with no compromise on efficacy and patient outcomes.

Clairderm PhotonSmart Advanced LED Phototherapy Machine is the latest innovation in LED machines. It's one of the world's most versatile and powerful LED phototherapy systems and a preferred system for therapist and physicians. It uses unique SmartClick technology to easily change wavelength and colour options. The 21 builtin programs, large adjustable head, optimal power and the continuous, pulsed, modulated, photo-sequencing and photo-fractional energy delivery system make it suitable for multiple face and body applications.

Clairderm Q-10 Premium 2-in-1 Laser offers the latest in advanced Q-Switched Nd:YAG and Long Pulse Nd:YAG laser technology in one laser. The advanced features ensure optimal results consistently and minimal patient downtime. These include three laser modes in one laser, multiple wavelengths and handpieces, optimal power and pulse width, convenient adjustable spot size in 1 handpiece (2-10mm), large spot size (11-15mm) and optimised Top-Hat profile.

Clairderm Medical Aesthetics is an Australian company that is committed to empowering business success with expert technology.

It has a legacy for excellence with over 20 years' experience in the manufacture and supply of aesthetic, medical and beauty equipment and advanced cosmeceutical skincare. The comprehensive product range has been designed using state-of-the-art technology to perform non-invasion, non-surgical aesthetic treatments for true, natural beauty.

Customers Can Rely On Us

The range includes: Clairderm Classic, Slim and Trio Microdermabrasion, Clairderm Aqua Renew Hydrabrasion, Clairderm Oxygen Infusion, PhotonSmart LED Phototherapy, IPL, Laser, Tattoo Removal, HIFU, Ultrasound Cavitation and RF machines together with three professional cosmeceutical skincare ranges: Clairderm, BeautyMed and Aquatonale. These complement the various aesthetic treatments.

Clairderm Medical Aesthetics has a solid reputation for not only the quality equipment they sell, but also their reliability and customer service. The majority of their equipment is proudly manufactured in Australia. This is a huge advantage and convenient for customers as any questions, help or support can be given immediately by the local expert technical support team. Customer service is extremely important to the company because they understand that their clients are mostly hands-on practitioners who want efficient, effective technologies with as little as possible disruptions.

Designing Equipment that Meets Key Consumer Needs is Clairderm Medical Aesthetics is committed to: ! Quality: Only premium quality parts are used to produce Paramount When designing the Clairderm Medical Aesthetics “proudly Australian made” equipment range specific consideration has been given to key features and benefits:

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Equipment designs are based on ongoing comprehensive consumer research to ensure ease and comfort of use. They have ergonomic features, which enable them to be moved easily from room to room. The slimline compact designs ensure they take up minimal space and can fit virtually anywhere, they are for right and left hand use and offer flexibility because they can be used on both the left and right-hand side of beds. These details make a huge difference to the equipment's ease-of-use and performance.

Making sure equipment is designed to accommodate future upgrades is very important. These upgrades can be easily and swiftly added and implemented with the clinic or salon.

This is a major advantage because outdated equipment can become a very costly time-waster in a busy clinic.

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equipment. This ensures longevity, reliability and optimal patient outcomes consistently every time. Each device sold comes with a warranty of up to two years.

Rigorous testing: Both imported and locally manufactured devices undergo rigorous testing prior to delivery to ensure that the promoted specifications are accurate and that it delivers the promised results consistently time after time.

Ongoing training and support: Comprehensive customer training, after sales service and technical support is provided with every device that is sold. This gives clients peace of mind and ensures that they get the best results for their customers every time.

With over 20 years in the industry our customers can have peace of mind that we are here to support and empower their business success with expert technology for many years to come.

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Innovation is King Ongoing research and development to keep Australian salons and clinics at the forefront of cosmetic and aesthetic treatments is key.

This ensures that clinics can rely on the company to provide them with equipment that uses the most advanced and reliable technologies that delivers the best consumer outcomes consistently.

To view Clairderm Medical Aesthetics comprehensive range of equipment and skincare visit www.medicalbeautyequipment.com or contact us on 1300 781 239 or office@clairderm.com

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starperformer

AquaRenew HYDRABRASION Skin Hydration & Cellular Renewal Treatment

Hydration &Radiance The Clairderm Medical Aesthetics Aqua Renew Hydrabrasion System offers non-surgical skin hydrating and cellular renewal therapy suitable for all skin types. It uses the latest aesthetic technology to polish, refine and hydrate the skin in one quick and easy treatment. The procedure is hygienic, painless, non-invasive and safe. It can be customised for special skin concerns, scheduled in between working hours without any inconvenience or immobilisation and on completion light make-up can be applied.

The combination of skin exfoliation with slight suction increases microcirculation bringing nutrients to the skin. This helps to stimulate the production of new cells at the true level of the skin, helping to create healthier, fresher, more radiant skin with enhanced elasticity and texture. The addition of water to the treatment makes it a client favourite.

That's because it soothes and cools the skin leaving it feeling soft and dewy to the touch in addition to providing the key post procedure benefits of hydration and radiance.

Aqua Renew Hydrabrasion Therapy skin benefits are multiple. It's recommended to help improve the appearance of dehydrated skin, acne, fine lines and wrinkles, dull and congested skin and reduce pigmentation. The results are truly amazing! Over the series of treatments patient's will notice a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, tightening of enlarged pores, elimination of blackheads and whiteheads, a reduction of blemishes and an increase in the hydration, radiance and softening of the skin.

Clairderm Aqua Renew Hydrabrasion Therapy helps to increase the penetration of creams and serums by 4-5 times. To optimise the longevity of the results it's recommended that patients follow a strict maintenance program,using a professional cosmeceutical skin care range such as Clairderm Cosmeceuticals or BeautyMed, thathas a quality range of regenerating, hydrating and nutritive creams and serums.

With Clairderm Aqua Renew Hydrabrasion Therapy now's the perfect time for your clients or patients to release themselves from skin problems that restrict their self-confidence and the health and well-being of their skin and experience healthy, hydrated and more radiant skin.

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For further details contact: 25

CLAIRDERM MEDICAL AESTHETICS P: 1300 781 239 | E: office@clairderm.com | W: www.medicalbeautyequipment.com

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memberprofile now perfecting her own techniques as a master technician and trainer. As the owner of Distinctive Features Cosmetic Tattoo and Beauty, located in Mill Point in Victoria, Georgina is fast gaining a reputation in the region and Australia-wide as a leader in her field. In this interview she shares with us some interesting highlights of her professional journey.

APJ Q1: Georgina, how and when did you start your professional journey in this industry and what motivated you to choose this profession?

I left school early when I was just 15. At the time I didn't know what I wanted to do and decided to become a chef. I visited TAFE to try and enrol, but the class was full. As I was leaving the premises I saw a sign advertising intakes for beauty therapy, so I decided to enquire and found the prospect of pursuing that as a career quite interesting. I was then interviewed by a panel who asked me several questions to ascertain my suitability to the profession. Having passed their assessment criteria I was accept into the course. Unlike how students are accepted today, back then you had to meet an entrance criteria. On completing my Diploma in Beauty Therapy I immediately gained employment in Adelaide, where I was based at the time. Four years later I decided to also pursue further studies in Makeup and completed a Diploma in Makeup. My then boss introduced the Soft-tapping semi-permanent makeup and trained me in this method. I later progressed and was trained in the rotary method eyeliner technique.

Raising the Standards for

COSMETIC TATTOOING An interview with Georgina Schembri As an advocate of high standards Georgina Schembri is passionately committed to excellence in everything she undertakes and specifically in her practice of cosmetic tattooing. As a qualified beauty therapist for over 16 years she soon discovered that she gained the greatest fulfilment in the artistic expression that cosmetic tattooing offered her. As a result, for the past four years her focus has shifted as more and more her professional direction led her to specialise in this modality stepping up the practice to a whole new level. Highly committed to constantly improving her skills Georgina is

Several years later I moved to Melbourne where I was hired by a salon as a beauty therapist and worked there for 10 years. During my employment at this salon I was promoted to Head Therapist and was responsible for also training the staff. It was at that time that I realised that I was good at teaching and really enjoyed training others.

Eventually I was offered a position as a teacher at a college and a few years later I was offered a teaching position with TAFE. However, at a later stage TAFE were cutting back on courses they were offering and I found myself without a job. It was my husband who suggested that I pursue full qualifications in Cosmetic Tattooing. This was an excellent decision, as on completion of my training I realised that I had a real passion for Cosmetic Tattooing. I pursued further training and even went overseas to perfect my skills as I soon realised this was the area that I wanted to specialise in.

APJ Q2: What modalities do you offer in your salon and why did you decide to specialise in cosmetic tattooing? What do you love the most about this practice?

At our salon we offer tattoo removal with laser as well as non-laser methods. However, we also offer cosmetic tattooing as one of our specialised areas of service and this is because this is the area that I love to practise the most as it enables me to achieve amazing transformation for my clients. My passion for Cosmetic Tattooing is due to the fact that I am very good at it. As a modality it is also

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financially lucrative and this allows me to better support my family financially. Most of my business comes from word-of-month. I don't need to advertise other than through social-media. As I also have a real passion for teaching I decided to pursue this on a more formal basis, so currently I am going through my RTO process to become an accredited Registered Training Organisation.

My aim is to teach to a very high standard and offer graduates government-approved qualifications, while also training them in advanced techniques.

APJ Q3: What changes have you experienced with consumer expectations over the years and what are the three most common things that your clients are looking for?

Specifically with cosmetic tattooing we are seeing major changes in what consumers are looking for. In the past there were very few techniques so the procedures were fairly basic. Eyebrows were heavier and done in a block colour as they were the only options.

Today consumers are seeking to look youthful and glamorous, but with a more natural finish that is delivered through advanced techniques that require greater skills. They seek perfect symmetry and balance. They want to look good, but also natural.

This is where feather-stroking is useful. Eyebrows can be perfected with a more natural finish with softer edges and a stronger centre. Winged eyeliner is also very popular, but clients want a perfect wing tip that is thin, not thick as used to be the fashion in the past. Lips also can be done with ombre techniques for an enhanced yet natural finish. I use ombre techniques both for brows and lips. New techniques are constantly being introduced perfecting outcomes, including the use of colour to create 3D effects. We are constantly seeing old techniques being replaced with new more sophisticated ones, this is why ongoing training is essential if a cosmetic tattooist is to maintain her reputation. This is very exciting as they allow practitioners to achieve amazing, beautiful, yet natural results that are appealing to a broader clientele seeking to improve imperfections and boost their confidence without that obvious tattooed look.

anyone who wants to gain skills in this profession needs to also have sound and current knowledge of the skin and the beauty industry, plus an artistic flair as we are dealing with a long-lasting procedure that is delivered on people's faces and cosmetic tattooing can enhance and improve someone's confidence, but if done incorrectly it can cause them a great deal of pain and grief.

My goal is not to flood the industry with two-day courses with apparently "qualifying" flight attendants, secretaries or police offices that are merely seeking for a career change and a quick dollar, but to educate potential master artists to create naturallooking, perfect work to a standard that the industry can be proud of. My aim is about quality not quantity. I therefore support approved qualifications as the necessary move forward to improve the status of the Cosmetic Tattooing profession.

APJ Q5: What are you most passionate about and what does the future hold for Georgina Schembri?

I am very excited about venturing to deliver government approved training and raise the professional standards of the practice of Cosmetic Tattooing. I want to empower graduates to be able to deliver a very high standard of practice in this profession and to perfect their skills if they wish to make Cosmetic Tattooing their career choice. I am finding that many of

APJ Q4: Tell us why you chose to become an RTO and what are your goals and objectives for your college?

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I am pursuing to become an RTO because I believe a recognised and uniform standard needs to be set that defines the industry. Not only do I have an in-depth and uniform standard to my training, I also have a strict screening process before I commit to training someone. I believe that

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starperformer

New Product Launch from

Ultraderm Ultraderm is excited to announce the launch of their new product – NIGHTSHIFT RESURFACING MASK. Designed to boost skin cell renewal, enhance collagen and elastin stimulation, while also improving hydration levels to optimal levels. Nightshift Resurfacing Mask further enhances salon treatment results when used as an at-home treatment. We asked Pauline Valle to share with us the unique benefits of this product.

APJ Q1: YOUR NEW NIGHTSHIFT RESURFACING MASK IS AN AMAZING BREAKTHROUGH AS A FORMULATION THAT APPEARS TO PERFORM MULTIFUNCTIONAL TASKS SUCH AS REFINING THE TEXTURE OF THE SKIN, WHILE ALSO BOOSTING COLLAGEN PRODUCTION AND STRENGTHENING THE SKIN'S BARRIER FUNCTION. TELL US HOW IS IT ABLE TO ACHIEVE ALL THESE OUTCOMES?

my students have previously been trained, some, several years ago, but their standards are so poor that I have to retrain them and replace bad habits with new techniques.

I also do not support the new trend of training in microblading without a candidate first having completed a course in cosmetic tattooing. This is a cosmetic tattoo procedure. The procedure requires the use of anaesthetic as we are breaking the skin to insert pigment in the deeper layers of the skin. This makes it a risky procedure that requires full training in cosmetic tattooing as a prerequisite. All my students must first complete a course in Cosmetic Tattooing before they are taught microblading.

It's all about the ingredients in this products formulation. We chose to use multi-tasking actives that provide several benefits to the skin. For example one of the key ingredients Retinol Palmitate stimulates cellular repair and turnover while working as an antioxidant.

My objective is to ultimately empower practitioners with the skills and knowledge so that they can make people more beautiful and more confident, able to deliver a high standard of result that they can be proud of and that will deliver maximum client satisfaction.

APJ Q2: THERE IS A REAL TREND NOW FOR LEAVE-ON OVERNIGHT MASKS. HOW DO THEY WORK AND WHAT DO THEY AIM TO ACHIEVE?

APJ Q6: Why did you join APAN and in what ways do you believe APAN can assist you and the industry?

Overnight masks are designed as skin boosters to amplify the results that users are already getting from their skincare. They are the next step for skincare users who already use the basics (cleanser, toner and moisturiser) and speciality products like serums.

APJ Q3: WHAT SKIN CONDITIONS ARE BEST SUITED TO THE NIGHSHIFT RESURFACING MASK AND HOW CAN A BUSINESS INCORPORATE THIS MASK ALSO IN A SALON/CLINIC TREATMENT PLAN? We recommend Nightshift Resurfacing Mask as a specialty treatment product for age management, premature ageing and sun damaged skin for clients who have previously pre-conditioned their skin with Ultraderm skincare. This is a take home product that should be recommended for use as part of a skin management program and be used in conjunction with salon treatments. As Professional Skin Therapists know that consistent use of skinappropriate professional homecare products will always deliver superior results than salon treatments alone.

I am new to APAN as a member. I chose to join because when looking at some of the most reputable salons I noticed that they were APAN members. APAN has an excellent reputation as a credible organisation and the most active body that is fighting for the industry in the area of standards and regulations. They provide excellent member support and networking opportunities. They are the only professional body that conducts annual conferences in three different States supporting businesses and individuals with high-quality education and professional development. They are also leaders in innovative education – last year I attended the Introduction to Topical Anaesthetic Course, which I found very valuable. There is no doubt they are the body that is fighting for better standards and a better future for our industry and I am proud to be a member, as I also support and believe in their objectives.

If you wish to contact Georgina Schembri please email gwest1981@yahoo.com or contact her on her mobile 0409 901 011.

Nightshift Resurfacing Mask has the following actions: 100

! ! ! !

Improves skin texture, density, colour and tone Boosts skin hydration retention levels Promotes collagen stimulation and cellular turnover Strengthen the skins barrier function to improve skin integrity and moisture retention capabilities.

Nightshift Resurfacing Mask should be used once, or twice a week in the evening as a leave-on overnight mask.

For more information contact Ultraderm T: 1300 660 297 E: info@ultraderm.com.au

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COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP)

Supportive of industry concerns and unrest, APAN has taken the baton and has established a new industry classification to offer Cosmetic Tattooists strong recognition and provide an effective path for a more secure future.

APAN launched COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) last year and it is revolutionising the recognition and integrity of Cosmetic Tattooists and is paving the way for the profession to be identified by best practice in line with Australian Standards.

Establishing CTARP as a registered industry classification was industrydriven and came after many qualified and experienced cosmetic tattooists raised serious concerns over the deteriorating training standards in Cosmetic Tattoo that currently exists, in particular with training being offered to noncosmetic tattooists to do just eyebrows.

To join CTARP the following prerequisite will be required:

! Must be a current financial member of APAN ! Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing Registration requirements:

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Adhere to the APAN CODE OF ETHICS (Cosmetic Tattooing) and the relevant Australian Regulations as set out by State and Federal jurisdictions. A signed copy of this must be returned to the APAN Office.(Please note: If members also hold an American association affiliation they must understand that if there is any conflict in their Code of Ethics the Australian Code and regulatory requirements will overrule).

Cost of CTARP Registration: Adhere to the CTARP Code of Conduct.

CTARP Registration $110

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Registration Benefits:

! Special Membership Certificate ! Special Membership Card ! Industry Code of Ethics (Cosmetic Tattooing) ! CTARP Code of Conduct ! Transparent CTARP logo for business window or door ! Included on APAN Website as preferred practitioners ! Other benefits from time-to-time Registration renewal requirements:

! Maintain currency of APAN Membership ! Evidence of participation in post-graduate training within the previous 24 months ! Evidence of attending at least one APAN conference per year.

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If you require further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com The online application to join CTARP is found at www.apanetwork.com Applicants applying to become a Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) must provide evidence of currency of APAN Membership and their Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing.

So if you are a Cosmetic Tattooist and are committed to high standards of educational excellence and best practice, consider joining APAN and become a member of CTARP and be recognised among Australia's leading Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioners.

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skintreatments

How to utilise your skin analysis results to achieve

SUPERIOR TREATMENT OUTCOMES

by Gay Wardle Skin analysis and consultations are two different things and should be considered that way. Both these areas should be covered before any treatment is performed and the patient or client should be informed of these stages. The two stages are: Part 1: Finding out present and past skin and health history Part 2: Understanding the skin condition that is presented A consultation is one where you would collect information on the history of the patient. During the consultation you need to clarify the expectations of the patient, photographic and consent forms signed and establishing indications for future treatments.

waste and bacteria, working with each other to keep our body and our skin healthy at all times. Are cells being fed the correct nutrition to optimise their health and function? This is an important question we need to ask when treating skin disorders. Knowing the answer to this question will give you a great starting-point for treatment programs.

In summary, we need to know the function of the cells to understand the structure of systems that will help to identify the causes of the skin condition so you can eliminate the visible effects.

Putting all these together let's now examine a condition that is presenting with rosacea: Rosacea is a very manifested skin condition that occurs mostly in Caucasians with skin types 1 and 11.

A skin analysis or diagnoses is where you would work through four main areas to come up with a solution for skin correction. A meticulous examination is essential to establish if the patient`s There for subtype classifications of rosacea with varying demands can be realised as a therapeutic goal. This examination manifestations: forms the basis for establishing indications for home and clinic 1. Erythemato-telangiectatic features include persistent treatments. To understand what we are seeing visibly on the skin we cetrofacial erythema, flushing, telagiectasia, skin sensitivity. need to look at the four key areas: Effect, Causes, Structure and 2.

Papulopustular persistent centrofacial erythema, papules Function. and pustules.

3. Phymatous thickened, nodular skin and prominent pores So what is the EFFECT? 4. Ocular – dry, gritty sensation, pain or photophobia, This is what you see on the surface of the skin. For instance rosacea is blepharitis and conjunctivitis. a skin disorder that has manifested for whatever reasons until the effects become very visible on the skin's surface. It is the same with pigmentation, acne, ageing and other skin disorders we see every day.

The effects we would see with rosacea would be inflammation, watery lesions, redness and pustules.

We must always remember that the effect is just that – a manifestation that is presented, so we need to find out why those signs are visible on the skin before we come up with a treatment program.

The second consideration is the CAUSES. The causes of the manifestation could be anything from underlying invasion of bad bacteria in the gut, to incorrect skincare being used, past treatments, environment, medications, genetics or stress – any of these things and more will contribute to the beginning of a skin disorder that becomes the effect. This is where the treatments need to start and I will explain this a little later in this article.

Then we look at the STRUCTURE. This is where we need to look at the immune system (lymphatics), circulation, skin-barrier function in the epidermal/dermal junction for any problems or malfunctions. This is because without a healthy structure you will result with poorly functioning cells.

The last one is FUNCTION. Function is having cells that are performing optimally. Removing

My approach would be to look at the effect, causes, structure and function of erythemato-telangiectatic and papulopustular rosacea.

ETIOLOGY: The precise causes of rosacea still remains a little bit of a mystery.

There are many theories that could be the causes of rosacea, but really none of them have been a proven pathway, although we do know that genetics can be a predisposition (skin type 1 and 2), before we can add in other factors that could be causes.

Another possible cause is Demodexfolliculorum mites. This one has being circulating for some time now and is usually treated medically with acne medications.

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Then there is Helicobacter pylori infection. As the skin is a site of response, it makes sense that this bacteria might have a role to play in rosacea, although still very controversial. It has been suggested that intestinal inflammation and bacteria may cause hyper-sensitisation of facial sensory neurons via the plasma kallikrein-kinin pathway and production of bradykinin, a well-known vasodilator (Baumann et al).

Rosacea is also associated with the dermal connective tissue, collagen type IV deterioration and pilosebaceous abnormalities.

This follicular immune response that has been seen in rosacea gives

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rise to suggestions that the pilosebaceous inflammation could be a major key to rosacea, although again a theory.

impaired immune function as this could be the catalyst to the other problems.

Gluten, dairy, irritable bowel syndrome and other intolerances could all be aggravating factors, not to mention the endocrine and nervous systems – STRESS and the effects that has on the skin is incredible.

TREATMENT OPTIONS:

We also cannot eliminate other medical conditions and medications that could be part of the manifestation of rosacea. And of course there is always the theory of self abuse to the skin (skincare, treatments, UV exposure etc.

The tendency to flush easily where there is increased blood flow to the cheeks, nose and neck areas are also key indicators of symptoms of the disorder. The increase blood flow is caused by activation of prostaglandins on smooth muscle. Add to this an increase in activation of histamine and serotonin can also induce erythema.

EFFECTS: These visual signs or manifestations at times can be both acute and chronic. The condition appears mainly to the facial area although it can also be found on the neck and dĂŠcolletage. It can begin with slight redness developing into a more severe condition of where it becomes more persistent with visible blood vessels appearing. Over time, and depending on the severity of the condition, lesions will appear, often presenting as watery, or fluid-filled papules or pustules.

Rosacea will always include at least one of the following symptoms: 1. Flushing that comes and goes. This can be due to spicy food, alcohol, exercise and other physical activities 2. Persistent redness that does not go away 3. Visible blood vessels 4. Burning or stinging sensations 5. The skin is very dry due to corneum dysfunction 6. Pustules 7. Plaques may develop on the cheeks, nose and chin areas 8. Edema 9. Skin becomes very fragile though sometimes might thicken 10. Purities

Successfully treating rosacea is a challenge to say the least. The skin barrier function needs to be optimised to ensure that water evaporation is slowed down.

Actives that reduce inflammation and bacteria should be prescribed and introduced at various stages.

Vitamins such as A, B, C and E care very good actives for repairing and reducing inflammation.

Beta glucans are also useful to support Langerhans cell function.

IPL has proven to reduce the effects of rosacea greatly and has been used with PDT. Another technology is LED which has been proven in assisting in the reduction of infection and repair to the barrier function.

Manual lymphatic drainage to support the immune system is also very important as it helps to mobilise the lymphatic circulation.

Gut management is very vital. Gut support strategies including probiotics are highly beneficial in supporting the immune systems and eliminating bacteria that could be contributing to the inflammation.

If you identify symptoms of hormonal imbalance it is advisable to refer your patient or client to an appropriate healthcare profession.

Identify high stress levels and provide solutions to assist in minimising their impact.

Investigate and reduce any triggers that might increase the risk of aggravation.

CONCLUSION

CAUSES:

This challenging and debilitating skin disorder is one that can be controlled, but there needs to be a definite pathway with specific protocols that needs to be followed.

I have already established possible causes earlier in this article.

There are many possibilities and each one of these would have to be discussed at the time of consultation. Each one of the already mentioned causes would have to be thoroughly investigated and there would obviously be a process of elimination.

To consider any program of treatment you need to identify the effects, the causes, examine the integrity of the structure and the function and then develop a program for both clinical treatments and homecare regime.

STRUCTURE: This is where we look at the immune system, and the functioning of Langerhan cells and other macrophage cells. The innate immune system is the body`s line of defense against infection. This protective process may be malfunctioning in patients with rosacea. The presence of inflammation is one of the primary reactions or manifestations on the skin and this could be a potential cause of the disorder.

Impairment to the skin barrier function is another structure that needs to be examined. If you identify extensive trans-epidermal water-loss this could be a major contributing factor to impairment of the skin barrier. This would also elevate the bacteria levels of the condition.

Throughout the progression of treatments there may be times that other options need to be considered and therefore the program could change. This will depend highly on the progress, and of course, the patients commitment to treatments.

Rosacea is not a simple condition to address. Therefore ongoing maintenance is imperative in order to keep the disorder under control.

Gay Wardle is a well-known multi-awarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science.

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FUNCTION: If the immune system was optimally performing, langerhan cells and other macrophage cells would have engulfed the bacteria before vessels were invaded. This could have stopped the infection. Then possibly there would be an intact barrier function that would not lead to dryness and edema. It therefore makes sense to check for an

If you would like you and your staff to undertake training with Gay please see the training dates on page 16 or contact Gay on 0418 708 455 or book on-line www.gaywardle.com.au.

You can also email her on gay@m-da.com.au

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productperformers

Tips for Better BUSINESS Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

THE FIVE-HOUR RULE USED BY SOME OF THE WORLD'S MOST SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS LEADERS Studying the habits of successful people is one way to learning how to develop the mindset that will help you move from strength-to-strength, so here are three key habits to consider.

investing giant Warren Buffett reads five newspapers and 500 pages of corporate reports every day. This exceeds the onehour a day suggestion, as Buffett says he spends five to six hours a day reading.

Some of the world's most prominent business leaders are following a simple weekly plan to further their learning and take time to reflect. And by spending an hour each day focusing on deliberate learning, busy entrepreneurs and business owners can also improve their chances of success.

An hour spent learning skills for the future may reduce short term productivity, but in the long term, those who use this technique can find themselves getting tasks done faster and being more productive.

Reading allows you to grasp new ideas, identify ways of improving what you are doing and helps you expand your possibility thinking. If your business is going to provide expert solutions, you need to constantly invest in perfecting your expertise.

Michael Simmons, co-founder of start-up support firm Empact, calls this behavioural phenomenon the five-hour rule after looking at the personal history and daily activity of business leaders such as Mark Zuckerberg and Bill Gates.

Simmons found the leaders he looked at spent five hours each week focusing on three key areas.

1. Read a book The primary focus area is reading, with Simmons finding each business leader he researched spends some time reading each week. Microsoft co-founder and philanthropist Bill Gates reads 50 books a year, and regularly shares his recommendations with the public. Gates' best friend and

2. Reflect and learn from your mistakes Reading isn't the only way that these business leaders wind down for an hour, with Simmons finding many also choose to take time to reflect and think about their business and their lives. AOL chief executive Tim Armstrong thinks with his senior team for four hours every week, while investor Ray Dalio takes this to the next level by logging his mistakes into a company-wide system and then working through them with his team. LinkedIn chief executive Jeff Weiner does nothing but think for up to two hours every day, and LinkedIn's cofounder Reid Hoffman likes to give Elon Musk a call whenever he has an issue to think through. Weiner previously wrote about his take on the five-hour rule on LinkedIn, calling it: “The Importance of Scheduling Nothing.” “If you were to see my calendar, you'd probably notice a host of time slots greyed out but with no indication of what's going on.

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The grey sections reflect ‘buffers,’ or time periods I've purposely kept clear of meetings,” Weiner said.

So, don't be afraid to block time out to reflection. Review things that went wrong and instead of worrying about errors consider the lesson learnt and put a policy or a procedure in place to prevent that happening again. After all, business is a journey with valuable lessons along the way.

3. Experiment a little Finally, Simmons found these business leaders also dedicate time to experimentation. Some of the largest companies in the world also foster creativity and innovation through dedicated experimentation time.

Google once allowed its employees to spend 20% of their work time on innovative personal projects that can benefit Google. This was eventually phased out in 2013 for a more focused approach to innovation, but the concept resulted in huge projects such as Gmail and AdSense.

consider how the service can be improved on in order to provide better treatment outcomes. Give your staff permission to be innovative.

According to entrepreneur Marc Andreessen, “The acquisition of skills and how to do things, is just dramatically underrated”.

“People are overvaluing the habit of just jumping into the deep-end of the pool, because reality is, people who dive into the deep end of the pool, drown," he said. “There aren't that many Mark Zuckerbergs. Most of them are still floating face down in the pool.”

Jumping straight into the five-hour-a-week regime can be difficult to do right away, so it's best to take it in increments.

Simmons says to look at the rule like exercise, saying, “the long-term effects of NOT learning are just as insidious as the long-term effects of not having a healthy lifestyle”.

So grab a book, pick a timeframe, and get learning.

Give your staff permission to come up with ideas on how you can improve what you are currently offering. Tap into GenYs and the Social Media skills and get them to come up with new ideas for better on-line engagement and attracting new clients. Allow someone who is very good with technology to

Ref: http://www.smartcompany.com.au/businessadvice/72560-the-five-hour-rule-used-by-some-ofthe-worlds-most-successful-business-leaders/

DEFINING YOUR IDEAL CLIENT CAN CHANGE YOUR BUSINESS GROWTH Starry-eyed business owners can be guilty of hoping that anyone and everyone will be their ideal client. But experts tell us in this market it's quality, not quantity, that's the key, and business owners that can attract and retain high-end clients can significantly bolster their bottom line.

So how can you attract high value clients to your business?

First you need to realise that high quality clients have increasingly high expectations – it's essential that you ensure you provide exceptional service, a high quality product, and a seamless transaction experience if you wish to ensure that a high-value client will not just remain with you, but also become your biggest advocate for your brand. If you can learn to profile, you'll be well on the way to developing a loyal and profitable client base. Here are some recommendations you need to examine: Are your services and products high-end?

Be really clear about what your business offers. Accept that you're not going to attract high value customers unless you're offering something that appeals to them. Also, if you are looking to attract clients with the healthier spend ability, look for ways to deliver exceptional customer experience. A shop makeover or rebranding for your online store might be considered.

Offer high value packages and offerings, not discounts. Astute consumers are looking for quality and value at the best possible price. Instead of discounting, which lowers your worth, throw in extras that increase the value of their package and also exposes them to other services you are providing. If you are putting together a treatment package, don't discount, throw in products for free.

Research your ideal customer Check out your demographic. Who is your average potential clients in your region that you want to reach out to? Learn about their habits, their activities, their sports and provide services that they can relate to. Do they go on regular holiday trips? Provide them with special packages that cover products and treatments for jetlag, flight dehydration, sun protection, improved energy and immunity. If you have several that are busy mothers, provide them with stress

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management treatments or revitalising services. Checking on better sleep, body-shaping and body-toning treatments, Consider working Facebook is also a simple way of identifying habits and their cosmetic tattooing services. collaboratively with a nutritionist or a weight-loss, weightinterests. management expert.

Map out your ideal clients' age group Younger clients – consider eyebrow and eyelash services and Identifying the age-groups that you are catering for will allow other grooming services. Keep each section separate and you to consider appropriate product purchases and treatments ensure that it is operated by an expert in that modality. you should be investing in. For example, if you have a strong Identifying your age-groups and their personas will allow you Baby Boomer demographic consider age-management to gain a structured look at your clients' goals when they're services.

Apart from their skincare needs, consider considering trying your product or service, and will help you introducing injectables for stepping up your results, peptides understand the features and messages that appeal most. for improved energy and wellbeing, magnesium products for

APAN AQUIRES CORPORATE HEALTH PLAN WITH BUPA WITH EXTRAS FOR ITS MEMBERS APAN members can now also expect to save on their healthcare cover through a special deal that APAN has secured with BUPA for the benefit of their members.

Recently APAN negotiated a Corporate Health Pack with heaps of extra benefits to support members and their families. These "special benefits" are reserved only for APAN members and are not available if individuals go direct to BUPA.

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"Many of our members also have families so we have negotiated special benefits for the whole family," Tina Viney said. Another benefit that APAN can provide its members.

Here is what you can expect to gain from the APAN BUPA CORPORATE HEALTH PACK: Get Bupa cover on the APAN health plan and you can look forward to a broad range of product options to suit different life stages plus access to:

! ! ! ! !

2% discount on premiums Year 3 Benefit Bonus – Bupa will treat you like you have been a loyal customer for three years, meaning on Platinum, Gold and Silver Extras. You will be able to claim more back on extras straight away.

Two and six-month waiting periods waived on extras only – start claiming on items like general dental, physio optical and more. Conditions apply Flexibility not previously offered in any of our corporate suite of products Complimentary access to 'After Hours Plus' from National Home Doctor Service. This means when you

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book an afterhours, bulk-billed doctor home visit, the doctor may prescribe common medications, on the spot, at no charge to you.

Life Skills – an informative program that can help them to gain a better understanding of their own personal wellbeing and how to better manage it. The interactive courses provides you with practical guidance on WorkLife Balance, Stress and Resilience, and Positive Parenting Even when you're in great health, there are still plenty of ways to get everyday value thanks to Bupa Plus. * We've recently introduced this program to give you access to an exclusive range of health discounts, tools and more to help you live a healthier, happier life. Visit bupaplus.com.au

To switch to Bupa Corporate Health Cover, review your health insurance options and understand the benefits of the corporate health plan: 100

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Call Bupa on 134 135 and quote 211 3205

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Email Bupa on: apan@bupa.com.au Or visit your local Bupa retail store.

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HOW TO KEEP YOUR CLIENTS HAPPY You may have heard the old business saying, "It costs three times as much to get a new client than to keep an existing one". For most businesses, this is true, because the process of getting, vetting and converting new leads takes a fairly large investment in time and money. Successful business people know that taking the extra time to communicate and deliver quality service and abide by strict deadlines and quality controls will help to retain clients. Furthermore, these clients if they are happy may in turn refer their friends and partners to you.

Client retention is also becoming increasingly important as the professional landscape becomes consistently more competitive. The following are proven strategies that you may wish to consider when reviewing your strategies for client retention and business growth:

Service Strategies

! Never over-promise:

When launching a new service or product review your communication message and be honest about what products you can provide, without hyperbole. People will remember what you promised and will lose trust if you cannot deliver.

! Over-deliver when it's important: You probably don't have the time and money to over-deliver on promise by a large margin; however, it is all about creating value.

Deliver a little bit more so that your client feels they get something free or extra with their dollar. This may be a small thing, but consumers trust you if you give them that little extra from time to time.

! Stick to your appointment time: One of the pet hates you will often hear from consumers is how they hate when they are taken late for their appointments. This is often the case with medical appointments. Remember that the objective of your services are to make the client feel better and to provide them with a service that can possibly alleviate their stress not add to it. Time is a precious commodity as everyone has commitments. If you are constantly running late this can become a cause for aggravation to your clients and may result in choosing them in future to go elsewhere.

Ensure that you can deliver your client's expectations: If what your client is looking for is beyond your scope of practice, or your ability to realistically deliver, be truthful about it and refer them to someone who can. They will respect you for it.

As a professional, you have a duty of care to conduct yourself in an ethical manner. This means that you will not attempt to deliver something that you are either not qualified to do, or do not have the tools or knowledge to deliver what the clients’ expectations are.

Follow-up: Ultimately, your client will come back to you if your service was successful for them. However, it is good practice, especially with more advanced procedures to follow up with a phone call to ensure all went well and to get

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valuable feedback from your client. This level of care is often understanding their request. Ask questions if you don't appreciated and helps built trust and confidence in your understand and take notes as necessary. professionalism and competence.

Professional Courtesy Communication Strategies Mode of communication: In this day and age we all have a preferred method of communication. Some prefer text, while others prefer a phone call or an email. Personalise your communication strategy to your client's preferred method.

This will ensure you have a happy client and they will welcome to hear from you.

Be on time: If you have a client waiting and someone wants to continue talking to you, prioritise your next appointment and courteously excuse yourself to take care of your standing appointment. Don't allow yourself to be distracted and leave your next client waiting.

Return phone calls: Not returning a phone call is considered rude by most. Clients rarely call just to check-in, so assume that every time they pick up the phone to get a hold of you during regular business hours it's important. Prioritise to return a phone call when someone has attempted to reach you.

Use names appropriately: When speaking on the phone always introduce yourself first and then start speaking to the person you have called. When meeting a client for the first time introduce yourself by name and refer to them by their name. If a client is sent to you in your treatment room, do not get distracted with any paperwork. Acknowledge them by name and introduce yourself, then refer to your paperwork.

Return emails promptly: You do not have to be plugged into your email account every hour of the day, but it helps to email clients soon after you receive their emails. If you are busy, the clients will understand, so email them to tell them that it is on your schedule and you will get to their matter very soon.

Take criticism well: If a client comments negatively about your procedures or service don't rush to your defence. Listen carefully in order to understand their concern, note any changes and follow up with questions and positive statements for a solution rather than getting negative.

Listen carefully: You have no chance of meet with your client's expectations if you don't take the time to really understand what the client needs. Rid yourself of other distractions and expend some extra energy towards really

Make sure that all costs are established upfront prior to a service: One of the biggest ways to alienate a client is to charge them for something that they weren't aware of. Let them know of all fees upfront.

STRATEGIES FOR STAFF PRODUCTIVITY Here's a good problem to have: You have an amazing team of employees. You value them for their unique skills and abilities to move your company and its purpose to heights that were once not even imaginable.

But just because your employees are talented and high-achieving doesn't mean they have high morale. Besides increasing their pay or giving them a nice bonus, what can you do to show them they are valued?

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Here are seven strategies that will help you reach new heights and continue the upward momentum - and bump your employees' morale up to the next level.

Boost confidence: Tell your team where their skills are shining the most. Most companies use some sort of annual performance review, but don't let that prevent you from telling your employees where they are valued and why. Instead of simply saying “Thank

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you� and meaning it (which is very important), help them understand, for example, why their attention to detail in the way they communicated with their last client was appreciated and critical to the business's success and in line for business policy.

sense of life fulfillment. Finding ways for your employees to tie their work to service is key to creating a sustainable workplace environment where employees thrive on a personal level.

Open communication: Sometimes we think that our work is so constrained by legal realities or regulations that there is no room for creativity.

However, creativity is expressed in everything that we do.

Each person uses his or her own creative intelligence to connect with clients in ways that resonate with the individual - and also, hopefully, with the clients. The more we give our employees an opportunity to express themselves creatively (within the confines of external realities and laws, of course), the more engaged our employees will be.

Good business always have an open-door policy where even the newest employee can come to speak to the manager or owner and share any concerns they may have, whether this is a grievance or a recommendation. Try practising this open communication across all employee levels. Don't just focus on keeping your clients happy while ignoring the status of your staff members. Make sure your team knows that professional communication or anything that concerns them should be appropriately addressed to management and not shared with other colleagues.

Optimise focus:

Clarify a plan:

Let's face it – life is more fun when you concentrate on things that you like and are good at. This concept translates to the workplace, but often goes ignored. For example, how do you think those who are good at sales would feel if you told them to help you design the next promotional campaign? How would your excellent hands-on therapist feel if you allow her to determine the best way to rewards her client for on-going loyalty. In other words, use each team member to contribute in the area that they are strong, or best at. Streamlining responsibilities may be challenging, but remember, even small steps towards helping your team members focus on work that they enjoy and are good at will translate into a profound change for them and the company.

Even some of the very best and most highly regarded companies have dissatisfied employees because the workers don't quite see the bigger picture. Make sure that, as a manager or supervisor you are not keeping the vision to yourself. Let your employees know where the company is going and how their contributions will help the company get there. Don't forget to also let them know how they can pave the way for new opportunities for themselves. Most people get excited about advancement.

Engage creativity:

Make time for play:

Zero in on service:

All work and no fun makes for a boring day. Make sure you are consistently rewarding your crew by providing time to connect with whatever it is they deem valuable in life.

Schedule an out of work fun activity from time to time.

Naturally, companies need to concentrate on the bottom line – it's a reality of doing business. However, making money for the company is not going to motivate every employee.

Instead, studies show that being of service and performing acts of kindness for others brings people happiness and a

You are most likely already using at least one of the strategies.

Keep your employees engaged. Good communication is important to ensure a happy team to whom you are entrusting your clients to.

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starperformer

THE POWER OF THREE The benefit of layering product application are now well-supported by researchers, who have also determined how ingredients interact and work together, but more importantly, how they are received by the skin.

"SKIN" – is a relatively new professional skincare and retail brand that has recently been launched on the Australian professional market. However, these quality Australian formulations have been tried and tested for over 35 years.

Thousands of satisfied consumers have enjoyed the benefits o f q u a l i t y, s t r e s s - f r e e s k i n management giving their skin the wellness it deserves.

“SKIN' – is a dermatological range consisting of natural ingredients formulated with an advanced trans-epidermal delivery system to optimise cell function. The “SKIN' systems is developed to deliver essential nutrition to the skin, improving skin wellness and maximising the management of skin ageing.

Regenerative extracts from exotic fruit, vegetables, botanicals and harvested algae are the nutritional basis for powerful awardwinning skincare science.

in improving skin tone and elasticity, brightening dull skin and mitigating the effects of photoageing. L-Ascorbic Acid is unstable and prone to oxidation in solution, and only functional at pH of 3.5. AA2G does not possess these limitations. Clinical trials have demonstrated the dramatic benefits of AA2G on the skin.

Additionally, it was confirmed that the glucoside component of AA2G also acts to protect the degradation and potency of the vitamin C, giving it a longer life delivered to the skin through a slow-release process.

OPULENT 24-HOUR CREAM This is the ultimate anti-ageing product. Silky smooth, cooling and soothing, while providing a health boost in cellular-renewal and skin rejuvenation benefits. It delivers immediate skin improvement particularly for dry and ageing skin types. Opulent has a high percentage of skin important lipids such as Coconut and Macadamia nut oils with their amazing nutritive properties, yet without any feeling of oiliness when applied to the skin. The formula also contains actives such as Chamomile, Centella Asiatica, Aloe Vera, Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E), Ginseng, Allantoin, Panthanol and Thyme essential oil. Due to its advance delivery system Opulent is immediately absorbed into the skin providing incredible hydration that lasts throughout the day, while delivering unprecedented improvement in skin texture.

Utilising the principles of ingredient layering we profile three of our Start Performers and discuss ways of introducing them to the skin to ensure optimal results.

THE GOLDEN RULES FOR LAYERING PRODUCTS Using the power of synergy to accelerate treatment results ! HYDRO PEPTIDE SERUM: This amazing gel with its experts are now providing insight as to the most effective refreshing cucumber extract delivers skin-boosting layering sequence when applying various products. Here are properties to minimise the appearance of lines and wrinkles the latest recommendations: for a smoother and more youthful appearance. The amazing results of the Hydro Peptide Serum are attributed to the high 1. Start light: The Hydro Peptide Serum is the thinnest product and should be applied to the skin first after thorough cleansing. In percentage of four active ingredients: ! Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl): Palmitoyl this way it will most efficiently deliver the active ingredients into Pentapeptide-4 is a synthesised chain protein created by the skin. linking five amino acid peptides that deliver positive rejuvenating and anti-wrinkle affect on the skin. The benefits 2. Lock it down: Moisturiser is the key to any layering routine and should be followed after the use of a serum as it will seal and of this ingredient are well supported by scientific literature. ! Sodium Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid has amazing make the serum more effective. Apply Opulent at this stage after water-binding properties that helps skin retain its moisture the Hydro Peptide Serum has been absorbed. and helps create a protective barrier against microorganisms, 3. Finish with oil: Now apply the Vitamin C AA2G. When while assisting to reduce transepidermal water loss. ! Aloe Vera: Helps prevent inflammation and skin irritations layering products on the skin, oil or lipid-based serums should be and assist in hydrating the skin and strengthening its defence applied after a moisturiser. Oil-based products penetrate the moisturiser, not the other way around. Pat a small quantity into the barrier. ! Niacinamide: This is an amide form of Niacin (Vitamin B3). skin and allow it to absorb.

Research suggests that it supports cellular respiration, blood flow, lipid synthesis and further benefits the skin with its anti- As a double-layer another treatment option is to apply Vitamin C AA2G over the Hydro Peptide as an intensive treatment, inflammatory and antioxidant properties. particularly as a night treatment.

VITAMIN C AA2G – Lipid-based serum This is a lipid-based new-generation vitamin C that is immediately absorbed into the skin providing excellent benefits

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For further details contact SKIN NATURAL SCIENCE 0430 007 998.

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- PERMANENT MAKEUP SOLUTIONS

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Sara Naderi is a qualified beauty therapist with over 20 years experience in Cosmetic Tattooing. She is the official distrubutor for all Purebeau products in Australia and New Zealand and is the founder of Sydney College of Hair and Beauty. Sara is one of only 3 people in Australia who has trained and received a qualification in medical grade cosmetic tattooing. Training with Sara will allow you to benefit from her expert techniques, while you gain training towards the government approved unit of competency SHBBSKS003 (Design and Provide Cosmetic Tattooing).

Ever growing in popularity, Cosmetic Tattooing offers an amazing and very fulfilling career with tremendous scope, both for those who are artistic and those who are compassionate and nurturing. Cosmetic Tattooing has come a long way over the years. New, more sophisticated tools and techniques have opened the industry to include men as well as women. One of the latest developments in the field of cosmetic tattooing is Scalp Micro-Pigmentation.

Micro-Pigmentation can be very effective for cases of Alopecia, male pattern baldness and scarring on the scalp.

This procedure is also a very good enhancement for clients who have had a hair transplant but who require more density Whether the client is thinning , receding or completely bald it can give the appearance of a full head of hair again. Scalp Micro-pigmentation is suitable for all types and stages of hair-loss, and is appropriate for both very short and shaved hairstyles.

Scalp micropigmentation can: • Create the appearance of a full head of hair • Recreate a natural, youthful frontal hairline and side profiles • Camouflage the symptoms of all levels of alopecia • Camouflage scars • Add density and to a hair transplant to provide a fuller look BEFORE

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registrationprogram

Why the need for Higher Recognition and the Launch of ÂŽ APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER

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manufacturers are competing for a major share of the consumer market. The "green trend" and a move towards non-toxic ingredients also will see the use of Palm oil as well as other questionable ingredients virtually eliminated from future APAN APAN APAN APAN APAN formulations. What this will mean is that we will see many of the novel and sophisticated features CLINICIAN MASTER EDUCATOR EDUCATOR ASSOCIATE that traditionally were only found in cosmeceuticals will become The aesthetics industry is changing rapidly and while practitioners commonplace in both department store brands as well as readily may become aware of some of these changes on a personal level, available through on-line purchases. We need to stay one step ahead APAN is very much aware of them on a corporate level and has set out of these trends. to examine the impact these changes will make on the future direction of the profession as a whole.

As they gain knowledge of these advances through advertising and social media, consumers will be lured to access the very best resultsdriven products on their own. So what will happen to the expert?

OPPORTUNITIES AND THREATS With a keen eye on global research, and an understanding of technological advances and consumer trends, APAN is well Our industry needs to lift its game and move in front of these changes positioned to recognise the extent of their impact and introduce with solid reasons why consumers will still gain greater benefits in initiatives that will best protect the professional and business interests accessing their services. Practitioners will need to increase their visibility and elevate their reputation and expertise, and this is where of the aesthetics industry as a whole. an external independent body can assess and endorse their credibility APAN believes that the advances ahead of us will bring both and standards and best practice through a National Register. opportunities and threats, and unless the industry is adequately prepared these changes could have a detrimental impact on To gain registration as an APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner businesses. As a national standards body we believe that now is the individual applicants will need to meet with the eligibility criteria of time to examine future changes and prepare to be one step ahead of their category by providing evidence of their qualifications, skills and them, ensuring we maintain continued consumer confidence to trust knowledge. This registration will become the new industry standard in the expertise, credibility and knowledge of qualified industry for aesthetics. experts. However, this will not happen if we keep doing things the old way. There are several changes that industry professionals can The APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner (ARAP) will stand make as practitioners, but there is also a new status that will identify for credibility, and endorsed recognition of expertise, knowledge them as the preferred expert and trusted, and that is what APAN and best practice. The public will be made aware of this new classification as registered practitioners will be promoted on a REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER is all about.

National Register.

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WHY STANDARDS ARE SO IMPORTANT While businesses may deliver their own best-practice strategies, times are changing. On going competition, both through new consumer awareness and through constantly growing higher educated graduates, has created the need for existing practitioners to re-examine their professional identity and their standards. APAN as a Standards Body has established a new Registration, which is now officially trademarked to ensure that only those who have been endorsed as Registered Aesthetics Practitioners can be recognised and permitted to use this status.

THE NEW TRENDS Let's first look at some of the changes we can expect in the near future.

New advances in formulations are now being embraced by the large global consumer manufacturers. What this will mean is that cosmeceutical products will be readily available for direct purchase by the consumer. At a recent global meeting for cosmetic manufactures, Cosmetic Design stated that there was a huge interest by many companies in several new ingredient advances. The new anti-pollution actives that protect the skin from the ageing factor of environmental pollution attracted a great deal of interest by many manufacturing companies. New cutting-edge technologies have now identified several actives that enhance cell-to-cell communication and accelerate cell turnover and skin rejuvenation.

Previously these actives were only a few and were reserved for the prestige brands, however, they will now become commonplace as

ARAP registration is separate to APAN membership. There are three levels to this registration and the appropriate category is based on applicants meeting the eligibility criteria through evidence of their qualifications, skills and knowledge. This will allow entry level Associates to aspire to a higher level by meeting the next level's eligibility criteria.

Each approved ARAP member will be given a decal to promote their status, a Code of Ethics that they will be required to sign and adhere to and the requirement of evidence of ongoing education that they will need to present every two years at the renewal of their registration.

They will also be promoted on the National Register. APAN will present the status of these practitioners to government bodies who are deciding on scope of practice based on skills and knowledge.

Ultimately it will lead to an industry Code of Practice and a subsequent Scope of Practice that will define and protect the rights and reputation of ARAP members.

We are here to support your on-going success.

To access an ARAP ONLINE APPLICATION FORM visit www.apanetwork.com or to gain further information phone APAN 07 5593 0360.

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The Highest Professional Standards now has a New Name As the Aesthetics industry continues to advance so has the need to identify its leading practitioners through a new Standards Recognition Registration Classification.

APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERÂŽ (ARAP) Is the new industry Registration. Applicants will be assessed on their qualifications, knowledge, kills and standards. Industry professionals are invited to apply for Registration.

There are five Registration Classifications:

] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Clinician ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Associate ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Master Educator ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Educator

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Dermal Clinicians Dermal Therapists Cosmetic Nurses Skin Therapists Aesthetic Practitioners Educators A Quality Assurance Officer will assess each application on their qualifications and merits and determine eligibility.

APPLY TODAY For further information visit www.apanetwork.com and complete an ARAP Online Application Form.

If you require further details please phone APAN 07 5593 0360.

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treatmentmodalities

STATIC MAGNETIC FIELDS, QI ENERGY and the new wave in ANTI-AGEING SKIN REJUVENATION AND WELLNESS An interview with Kathy Pedersen One of our speakers at the APAN Aesthetics Conference in Sydney was Kathy Pedersen. Her lecture was on the integration of Acu-Point therapy to accelerate skin repair. This is a relatively new option as a treatment modality for our industry, however, it offers substantial skin improvement and rejuvenation in a highly effective, gentle, yet noninvasive way.

This method combines Eastern and Western disciplines to delivery incredible results utilising the use of Static Magnetic Fields (SMF) as the treatment tool.

Kathy is a highly respected international trainer in this modality and her lecture attracted a great deal of interest. This is a relatively inexpensive treatment option, however, it can deliver amazing treatment outcomes in skin volumising, lymphatic drainage, skin immunity, improve skin-hydration levels and texture, as well as its amazing ability to lift the features to a more youthful state.

cellular degeneration begins, which if not corrected will lead to the cell dying prematurely.

The lipid bilayer, always known to be selectively permeable, is instantly responsive to static magnetic field (SMF). Increased permeation of both hydro and lipophilic substances triggers increased amino acid, enzyme and neuro-peptide activity. This is seen within 15 to 20 minutes of application of the SMF, as skin firms to touch and regains “bounce� and tone.

In this interview, Kathy shares with us further information on how SMF can be incorporated into a treatment protocol to accelerate results to a whole new level.

APJ Q2: ARE THERE ANY STUDIES THAT VALIDATE THE

OUTCOMES OF SMF? The explanation for the effects of static magnetic field (SMF) on

APJ Q1: KATHY, EXPLAIN TO US WHAT IS STATIC skin and underlying tissues must employ a quantum view of MAGNETIC FIELD AND HOW DOES IT WORK IN THE AREA physical tissue alongside the Newtonian or mechanical view, which means that it sits between science and quantum physics.

OF SKIN REJUVENATION? All cells in the body share common components, regardless of their type. One of the common constituents of all cells are ions.

Ions are positively and negatively charged particles that conduct electro-magnetic pulses from within the cell. The electromagnetic pulses allow the cell to function. Without ions, a cell cannot live (nor could we!).

In a normal healthy cell, the ions are distributed around the cell with all of the positive ions on one side and the negative ions on the opposing side. The ions which live outside of the cell in the tissues will align with those inside of the cell so that opposing poles are together with the cell membrane between them. This allows fluid, oxygen and nutrients (fluid exchange) to move freely in and out of the cell, while maintaining the natural balance within the cell (homeostasis).

In a diseased or ageing cell, the positive and negative ions do not stay on opposing sides of the cell. They are disrupted and scatter randomly around the cell. At the same time the ions on the outside of the cell membrane also become scattered as they try to find their opposing pole. This results in cellular imbalance. Extra fluid from the tissues outside the cell is able to penetrate the cell which in turn pushes vital nutrients, hormones and electrolytes (salts) out of the cell. The cell's ability to function is greatly reduced and

Research into the effects of SMF is vast, and there are many research papers that therapists may find interesting. Some scientists believe future research will lead to an integrated understanding of the skin as a neuroimmunoendocrine organ during health and disease, and the treatment of many skin diseases.

There is quite an extensive body of research that have examined and validated how SMF works. Below I have included some study references for those who wish to check them out. I particularly value the work of these researchers:

! M. Steinhoff, Dept. of Dermatology and Boltzmann Institute for Immunobiology of the Skin, University of Munster: vonEs- march-Str. 58, 48149 Munster, Germany (e-mail: msteinho@uni- muenster.de). ! Wang Z, Che PL Du J, Ha B, Yarema KJ. Dept of Biomed Eng, Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Maryland, USA 2010 Nov 8;5(11):e13883), Mattsson, M.-0.Rehnholm.U. ! Mild, K. H. In Electricity and Magnetism in Biology and Medicine ! Blank,M.,Ed.: San Fransisco Press: San Fran, 1993; p 500. Cytometry 2006 Feb;69(2):75-85! Silverman, C. In Biological Effects and Medical

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way to secure a better treatment results. SMF Applications of Electromagnetic techniques are not an alternative to botox, or Energy ! Gandhi,0.P., Ed.; Prentice Hall: IPL. There are specific techniques to support Englewood Cliffs, NJ, 1990; p 414 botox, initiate tissue reorganisation, restore and - In Vivo 2007 Jan-Feb;21(1):61skin flora and to detoxify without any 8. downtime for clients. Integrating a SMF ! Li Z, Tam EW, Mak AF, Lau RY. Dept treatment which is essentially passive in its o f H e a l t h Te c h n o l o g y a n d delivery with substantial results is a valuable point of difference Informatics, Hong Kong Polytechnic University Kowloon, and enhances clinic results and reputation.

Hong Kong SAR China.

APJ Q6: ARE THERE ANY RISKS AND CONTRAAPJ Q3: YOU DISCUSS THIS TECHNIQUE AS AN INDICATIONS TO SMF TREATMENTS AND WHO ARE THE INTEGRATIVE APPROACH. WHAT OTHER MODALITIES BEST CANDIDATES FOR THESE TREATMENTS? CAN IT BE INTEGRATED WITH? A SMF treatment is contraindicated for people wearing a paceThink of Static Magnetic Field Techniques as supplementation.

The techniques are used in combination with any treatment that initiates an inflammatory response or disturbs the barrier function of skin. SMF treatments are also stand alone antiageing systems.

Static magnetic stimulation is a proven method for wound healing and is integrated to prepare skin for treatment, or to assist recovery post-treatment. The techniques push results even further. These treatments are also restorative, bringing skin back to a more healthy state. For example, supplementing a microdermabrasion treatment with SMF techniques delivers substantial results and helps to restore transepidermal water loss immediately.

Integrating SMF treatments with clinic treatments offers clients a unique experience of beauty with skin health benefits. This is a very welcoming options to the modern consumer who wants results, but with the assurance of safety and improving their wellbeing.

APJ Q4: WHAT TREATMENT OUTCOMES CAN YOU EXPECT FROM THIS PROCEDURE AND HOW MANY TREATMENTS DO YOU NEED TO ESTABLISH A NOTEWORTHY OUTCOME? The outcome is the initiation of Qi circulation (which is achieved in every person) and the rise of fluids to deliver natural moisturising factors. After one treatment skin appears brighter, complexion is clearer, redness is diminished (due to the vasonormative effect), volume is increased and there is a decrease in the depth of lines. We guarantee a visible difference after one treatment and have a strong homecare philosophy to maintain cumulative results. Treatment frequency is related to age, health/lifestyle and skin condition. Treatments are progressive and based on sustaining the energy of cells and strengthening of skin to raise it to a higher regenerative state. Historically, clients are committed to maintaining their Qi circulation for the visual antiageing benefits.

maker, and in pregnancy. An allergy to gold is also contraindicated as the micro-magnets are gold plated. Gold has a tonifying effect on skin, therefore is the chosen plating for the rare earth micro-magnets. The best candidates, would be anyone looking for skin repair, antiageing, skin congestion, diffused redness, inflammatory conditions, fine lines, volume loss, fluid retention, blemishes or irregular skin cycles.

APJ Q7: CAN SMF TREATMENTS BENEFIT OTHER C O N D I T I O N S S U C H A S PA I N MANAGEMENT OR PTOSIS CONDITIONS SUCH AS BELL'S PALSY IN IMPROVING NEURO LO G ICAL FUNCTIO NS O F MUSCLE TONE? SMF treatments include techniques for conditions such as Bell's palsy, trigeminal neuralgia, skin grafting, nerve damage (severed/damaged nerves), facial pain related to TMJ, scarring, pain and inflammatory conditions. These advanced techniques with this modality are generally practised by acupuncturists who have undertaken the Advanced Practitioner Training, which usually requires that a practitioner has operated as a Level 1 & 2 SMF practitioner for at least one year before undergoing the training. With this modality there are several levels of training available – from skin rejuvenation right through to more therapeutic techniques for more advanced disorders.

APJ Q8: HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO TRAIN AS AN SMF PRACTITIONER AND HOW PROFITABLE IS IT AS A PROCEDURE?

As we are all aware, we are seeing the rise of consumer demand for wellness as well as the shift in the wellness industry to integrate holistic health protocols and techniques. We therefore offer several levels of specialist training to Aestheticians in Australia and NZ. The initial training is designed for integration with the existing technologies and provides the protocols for antiageing, detoxification and for treating various skin conditions. The Intensive Aestheticians' Training is a five-hour course that is performance based for the core theory and APJ Q5: IN TERMS OF TREATMENT OUTCOMES HOW DO protocols. Advanced training can be undertaken in the future for THEY COMPARE WITH OTHER TECHNOLOGIES SUCH AS experienced SMF practitioners. The wholesale cost of a treatment IPL OR LASER? CAN AND SHOULD THEY BE COMBINED is around $18, the fee range for the hour is $145 in a modest salon to $320 in a luxury spa. The average fee for a facial OR USED AS AN ADJUNCT is $180 for initial and $180 - $140 for subsequent.

TREATMENT?

When used in combination or as an adjunct to other technologies, SMF techniques are an effective, and low risk

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Kathy Pedersen is the Director of Qi Beauty International Pty.Ltd. She can be contacted at Ph: 07 5527 3001

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peptidetechnology

How Peptides can assist in RECOVERY AND REJUENATION

By Dr Zac Turner Part of looking more youthful also comes from a well-functioning body with good energy levels. A vibrant attractive and youthful appearance, whether it is the face or body, is ultimately influenced by how you also feel on the inside. Fatigue, aches and pains, poor concentration and low energy levels ultimately cause depression. These factors can rob us of the ability to enjoy life, not to mention compromise our performance on both professional and personal levels.

a more youthful appearance, better energy levels and improve wellbeing.

Following his presentation at the APAN conference in Sydney Dr Zac will once again be a guest speaker at the APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE in Perth on 23rd October 2016 to present a more indepth presentation on peptides (see pages 38-41 for further details).

In this article, he continues from his previous article in APJ on this very informative educational topic and explores how new innovative peptide Today's consumers are also seeking services and assistance on how formulations are providing help for areas of recovery and healing. their investment in looking and feeling well can also support the longevity of the results, as well ways to improve energy levels. Wellness is very You've just got back into your exercise and things are going well. much a high priority for most individuals. While these areas can move You've dropped a few kilos and you're pretty happy with your into the domain of medical practices there is no reason why effective routine, but you're not as quick to recover as you used to be. In the collaborations cannot be achieved with healthcare professionals, previous issue of APJ Journal we looked at what peptides are and extending the services that you are providing your clients, while some of the things they can do. For a quick recap, they are short chains of amino acids that can stimulate your body to do a number continuing to grow your revenue and your business. of different and specific things. From losing weight and toning up, Peptides are providing amazing solutions in improving skin, enhancing to increasing muscle, improving energy levels, sleeping better, flexibility and wellbeing and new research is revealing ways that they can recovering better – and did I mention better skin and hair – there is achieve some amazing results. As an aesthetic practitioner it is valuable probably a peptide to suit you. education for you to gain an understanding on the various peptides and In my clinical practice and regularly in conversation I continually how they can provide solutions for numerous conditions and needs. hear about sprains, strains, slowing recovery and injuries so in this Dr Zac Turner is renowned as a new-generation multi-skilled medical issue I want to look at a few of the peptides to help us recover more practitioner who utilises innovative technologies and a variety of quickly from injuries, and hopefully prevent some by enabling us disciplines, including injectables and peptides to help individuals achieve to stay limber.

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THYMOSIN Thymosin Beta-500 (TB-500) is the synthetic version of a naturally occurring peptide in the human body called Thymosin Beta-4. It is the first cab off the rank for our recovery peptides as it has been shown to play a vital role in building new blood vessels, new small muscle fibres, cell migration and in blood-cell reproduction. So if you're currently injured or wanting to help prevent an injury, then Thymosin could be just the solution for you.

in lab animals. BPC157 is renowned for its ability to improve digestive functions. This makes a lot of sense, as it's derived from gastric juices.

Along with its beneficial connective tissue affects it also has many varied positive effects on gastrointestinal organs including the pancreas, liver, endothelium and can decrease heart damage this is through its anti-inflammatory effects. In addition BPC works to heal stomach ulcers in those who have overused NSAIDtype drugs. NSAID drugs are non-steroid, anti-inflammatory One of the key mechanisms by which TB-500 helps to regulate drugs and they are classified as pain relievers. and enhance cell-building is through its effect upon the protein actin. Actin is a vital component in cell building, regulation, One clinical study explored this peptide's ability to help structure and movement helping to grow, develop and repair cells laboratory mice with skin burns to heal at a faster rate. In addition, along with increasing connective-tissue flexibility. TB-500, clinical trials demonstrate that BPC 157 has the capacity to heal through its stimulation of actin, activates progenitor cells in the certain types of damage to the liver organ, which are triggered by body that produce increased protein and growth factors that alcohol abuse. promote healing. Its ability to migrate around the body and Some studies have shown it can also help to increase wound and proliferate when more is needed not only helps to build new bone-fracture healing. Studies also link this peptide with antivascular (blood vessel) pathways which through its versatility inflammatory properties that help to promote effective tendon-towith movement directly regulates inflammation and wound bone healing and superior healing of damaged ligaments. healing in both acute and chronic disease and injury pathways.

This action upon actin (and when combined with other peptides BP157 is non-toxic and promotes liver health without causing such as CJC1295 or Ipamorelin) cause a further synergistic effect unwanted side effects. As well, this peptide is effective on its own, of their wound-healing abilities, their reduction in inflammatory so it doesn't require a carrier in order to provide its array of health pathways and their augmentation of tissue connectivity. benefits, including the promotion of better liver health.

Some of the added benefits of Thymosin TB500 is that in many people it has helped to improve flexibility, which is great for all of us trying to get back into exercise or recovering from injuries.

Along with this, studies have shown it to be helpful with reducing inflammation in many tissues, especially connective tissue such as tendons and ligaments, which is perfect after that sprained ankle. There are also been many users who have found that they have gained hair on their heads and that their greying hair has been changing back to their natural colour during their course of Thymosin.

The combination of so many diverse and potent recovery peptides with their multitude of regenerative benefits makes BP157 a must for anyone with injuries, chronic inflammatory conditions or anyone who is trying to become more healthy now and into the future. It is relatively long acting compared to some of the other peptides, so the recommended dosing is 2-3 times a week. Due to this peptide's small molecular size, we are able to produce it in a cream to be absorbed transdermally.

CEREBROLYSIN

Cerebrolysin is a peptide mixture extracted from purified pig brain that has been linked with positive effects on cognitive function, especially those who suffer from vascular dementia. Its neurotropic effects may help reduce some of the degenerative effects of Alzheimer's disease, improves cognitive functions in healthy people, along with having some neuro-protective factors.

The specific mode of action is being investigated in clinical studies and hypothesised to be due to binding to selected receptors Side-effects of Thymosin are thankfully for the most part what we or through expression of nerve-growth factors (NGFs). would like to gain from it, including better skin, hair, flexibility and muscle recovery. With its ability to create new blood vessels Cerebrolysin is made up of mixture of 80% low-molecular weight and increase blood flow, it certainly doesn't have a lot of peptides with identical structure and 20% free amino acids, with drawbacks. Keys to long use are to have a use schedule drawn up this combination showing the greatest neuroprotective, by a doctor and to get correct advice on duration and frequency of neuroplasticity and neurogenesis. While, it is used in many administration. Along with this always make sure the area you're countries for the treatment of Alzheimers Disease, stroke and injecting has been recently cleaned and that all sharps are used after traumatic brain injury with good results, larger clinical and discarded responsibly. studies are currently being conducted to determine whether it will While it is still delivered as a small subcutaneous injection into the stomach or upper-outer buttock, it has a longer half-life than many peptides. This means that most people only need once or twice weekly dosing. The tiny insulin needles used are very unobtrusive, so this is very manageable even for people with a needle phobia.

BPC157 BPC157 is a brilliant regenerative peptide that has far-reaching effects from its ability to speed recovery and healing of muscle tears, damaged or crushed muscle tissues, as well as promoting faster healing of Achilles tendons. This peptide is made up of 15 amino acids and it's a partial chain of the body protection compound known as BPC, which is isolated from stomach juices

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With Vascular Dementia being the second most common form of dementia after Alzheimer's, there has been much interest in finding a protective supplement or treatment. The prevalence of both types of dementia is on the increase, some of which can be attributed in part to increasing life expectancies. Testing of cerebrolysin in mice with over-expressed human amyloid

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can have some great additional treatment modalities for even more health benefits. The continual research into novel treatments is ongoing and our aim is to stay at the forefront of developments for the benefit of our patients.

While peptides offer amazing benefits they are classified as medicine. It is therefore important to remember that with any medication they must be prescribed under the direction of a doctor. Please speak to a medical expert to ensure you get the best results.

ABOUT DR DR ZAC TURNER Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background.

He has completed studies in philosophy and degrees in Biomedical Science and nursing.

After several years of practical nursing experience he moved on to complete a Bachelor of Medicine and Bachelor of Surgery degree at the University of Sydney. His surgical interests include orthopaedics, plastics and reconstructive surgery, and he is very interested and specialises in sports, cosmetic and antiageing medicine. Dr Zac believes that continuing education is essential, and as such he not only trains other professionals in cosmetics and preventative medicine, but he also actively seeks out new and innovative treatments, ensuring that he is always at the forefront of new technologies.

Aesthetically, Dr Zac feels that a natural look is best, and truly believes that his 'less-is-more' approach using perfectly placed products gives the optimum outcomes. He doesn't set out to change the way a person looks, but instead aims to give them a fresh and rested appearance, further enhancing their natural beauty. Dr Zac provides in-depth consultations and works with precursor protein (the primary component of amyloid plaques found in the brains of Alzheimer's patients through intravenous our other experts to ensure that your experience will be enjoyable, injections) was found to increase NGF. and leave you looking and feeling your best.

The use of cerebrolysin is also being investigated in other inflammatory and brain disorders, including stoke victims. The studies completed have shown that cerebrolysin, in conjunction with several other compounds, showed potential in decreasing the early effects of stroke victims. The study showed that patients given cerebrolysin had accelerated recovery compared to other patients.

With most clinical trials administering cerebrolysin intravenously there are new trials further investigating its effectiveness administered orally or subcutaneously, to increase accessibility of this treatment for patients. At this stage it is available orally, subcutaneously and intravenously in Australia with some good results from individual patients. These results will be supported by clinical studies as they are completed.

CONCLUSION As can be seen through the use of new innovative treatments we

Over the past few years Zac has become involved in both the men's health and preventative health space. He is passionate about this as he sees prevention and body optimisation as the ultimate way to prevent chronic disease, obesity, and many other conditions. He has owned and is currently involved with clinics in the holistic health arena and believes that through a holistic assessment of someone's health we can enable them to live longer, healthier, and happier.

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We are delighted to introduce Dr Zac as a strategic alliance partner with APAN. His training will allow nurses and doctors who are APAN members to gain from his skills and knowledge the most up-to-date techniques in injectables and peptides.

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If you would like further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360.

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A Eulogy to an Amazing Young and Talented Man

MARC STUBBS Charming, polite and always generous in sharing his knowledge is how so many of us in the beauty industry will remember Marc Stubbs.

His proud grandmother and well-known business coach Caroline Nelson was always delighted to introduce him to her business clients and to the industry at large. An expert in social media, Marc was invited to speak at conferences and regularly supported Caroline at her lectures.

It all started after Marc completed his studies at Griffith University.

At the time Caroline was having problems developing a good social media platform for her business and Marc offered to help her. Soon, many noticed a huge improvement in her Facebook and asked how it happened. This led to his involvement in the beauty industry as Caroline and others identified his skills and talent.

Marc regularly accompanied Caroline helping her with her stand at various Trade Expos. At these events he very generously, always shared his knowledge with eager business owners helping them become familiar with the benefits of growing their business through various business tools and skilfully managing their social media platforms, such as Facebook, of which he was a real expert.

Alongside Caroline, Marc could not but develop his own business skills and as a result, launched his book - Beauty Salon Social Media: Facebook Made EASY, which he proudly promoted twice at Sydney Beauty and Spa Expo events, while sharing stands with Caroline.

As a result Marc gained his own client base, consulting with many salons and spas, providing his services and managing their social media, including writing all the posts and helping businesses interact with their fans and clients.

Marc was also very popular with several suppliers who loved him.

Two of his most loyal supporters were Kane Hammond from the Global Beauty Group and Tess Walls of Germaine de Capuccini.

Both were amazed at the ease with which he understood the industry so well. "It was as if he had just inherited a gift," Kane said. He didn't

need to be taught anything - it just came naturally to him, which is why he could write Facebook posts so well - as efficient as if they were written by the company owners with all their knowledge of the industry.

Despite his young age Marc was also quite an excellent writer. We were delighted to feature his article How to grow your business with FACEBOOK - Gaining inside tips from the expert in the winter issue of APJ Journal 13th Edition 2012.

Kane Hammond and The Global Beauty Group were a large part of Marc's industry involvement as he was responsible for their social media and copywriting for several years. He continued to be involved with the industry up until earlier this year and in particular, taking care of The Global Beauty Group's social media needs up until the beginning of this year when his other work commitments prohibited him from continuing. Eighteen months ago he landed his dream job in IT with United Technology Solutions. The company provide electronic security for businesses and it is there that he found his niche. As Marc took on further responsibilities a progressively high level of commitment was required of him with this company and he quickly worked his way up to Service Coordinator Manager with a team of 10.

Unfortunately, on 12th June Marc was involved in a fatal car accident. He was just 25 years of age. On Saturday 18th June at a heart-warming ceremony over 120 friends, family and colleagues gathered at the Great Southern Memorial Park chapel in Carbrook, Queensland to pay their respects and to celebrate the life of this amazing young man.

The two big loves of Marc's life were his partner, Allie LevarreWaters, and his adored 17 year old cat Bugzy, as well as his mother, Veronica, brother Connor, sister Allie and of course, his grandmother, Caroline Nelson.

Our sincere condolences go to Caroline, Veronica and the family.

For all who knew Marc as the amazing young man that he was, he will be greatly missed.

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cosmeticingredient

Australia's own Vitamin C powerhouse

KAKADU PLUMS

By Tina Viney tissues. Studies show the concentration of vitamin C in Kakadu Plum to be as high as 3200-5000mg/100g (compared with 50mg/100g for oranges). As we know, vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant and an essential nutrient to help slow the ageing process. Vitamin C is essential for the formation of proline, an amino acid that is required to make collagen. For this reason, According to Cosmetic Design-USA – one of the world’s leading news together with vitamin A, vitamin C is considered as the gold presenters in cosmetic manufacturing trends, we are going to see an standard in skincare.

The role of vitamin C is scientifically substantiated as an important free-radical scavenger, anti-ageing and skin-rejuvenating nutrient.

While there are many synthetic forms of vitamin C used in cosmetic preparations, new research is identifying high percentages of vitamin C found in certain fruits and vegetables.

increase in bio-technology in skincare formulations. This is as a As knowledge about the health benefits of Kakadu plums spreads direct result of the ever-growing consumer-driven preference for around the world, health-conscious consumers looking to add more natural and safer ingredients within cosmetic formulations. more superfoods to their diets are increasingly embracing products containing this vitamin C champion. Kakadu plum juice

One amazing recent discovery is the incredibly high vitamin C and 'gubinge powder' (dried and powdered Kakadu plums), for potency found in Kakadu Plum and the health benefits it offers both example, have been gaining a lot popularity among foodies and for skin and wellbeing. Let's take a closer look at this power-packed health enthusiasts in recent years. little fruit.

The Kakadu Plum (Terminalia ferdinandiana) is a small deciduous tree that grows across coastal monsoon northern Australia and produces a small edible fruit. Kakadu plum is also known as Gubinge, Murunga, Bush Plum and Billygoat Plum. This small green fruit with a somewhat sour taste has been credited with a number of health benefits, many of which have been attributed to the extremely high levels of vitamin C found in this Australian superfruit.

The Kakadu plum has been consumed by Aboriginal Australians for thousands of years for its nutritional and therapeutic values, with the inner bark of the tree being used to treat skin disorders and infections, and the fruit itself, rich in antioxidants and bioactives, has been used for therapeutic purposes and in recent times, used in cosmetic formulations. New research has confirmed that it is acknowledged as the world's highest natural source of vitamin C.

But why are vitamin C rich foods, such as Kakadu plums, so good for you? For one thing, vitamin C plays a crucial role in keeping your immune system, bones, teeth and gums strong and healthy. It can also help keep the skin supple due to its ability to stimulate collagen production, and it may help prevent iron deficiency by improving the body's capability to absorb iron from foods.

Vitamin C may also have allergy-fighting properties due to its ability to prevent histamine release and to stimulate detoxification of existing histamine in the body

KAKADU PLUM – A GOLD MINE OF ANTIOXIDANTS

Vitamin C aside, Kakadu plums are also rich in phenolics – phytochemicals that have been shown to possess extremely strong antioxidant properties. In fact, research is identifying that the phenolic content of a fruit or vegetable may be the single best indicator of the food's antioxidant capacity (even better than the food's vitamin C content). Research also suggests that Kakadu plum phenolic compounds may also perform other biological functions. Another interesting research finding is that Kakadu Kakadu plum's medicinal properties are exceptional. It contains plum have six times the concentration of phenolic phytochemicals such as gallic and ellagic acids. Gallic acid has phytochemicals than blueberries (Konczak et al., 2010). antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal activities and also shows anti-inflammatory, anti-tumour, anti-mutagenic and anti- Considering the high levels of antioxidant nutrients and bronchodilatory activities. Ellagic acid has anti-carcinogenic phytochemicals found in Kakadu plums, it is not surprising that effects against a wide range of carcinogens in many human

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this Australian superfood has been shown to beat many other ANTIOXIDANT – ASCORBIC ACID: VITAMIN C fruits in terms of antioxidant capacity. ! Reduces wrinkles and improves skin texture ! Protects skin cells and skin's support structure from UVA study published in the journal Innovative Food Science and related damage Emerging Technologies assessed the antioxidant power of 12 ! An antioxidant that helps reduce skin damage caused by native Australian fruits, and found that Kakadu plums had the free radicals ! Improves the appearance of sun-damaged skin highest antioxidant capacity among the tested fruits, as ! Strengthens skin's barrier response determined by Trolox Equivalent Antioxidant Capacity (TEAC) ! Reduces inflammation assay. When the researchers used the Photochemiluminescence ! Dramatically increases the synthesis of collagen (PCL) assay, Kakadu plums ranked second after Tasmanian ! Minimises hyper-pigmentation (skin-whitening pepper (also known as mountain pepper or Tasmanian pepperpossibilities) berry). Other fruits that ranked high in the two assays included ! Boosts efficacy of sunscreen additives Cedar Bay cherries, Burdekin plums, blueberries, muntries and Illawarra plums.

PHENOLIC ACIDS ! Antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ANTI-CANCER EFFECTS OF KAKADU PLUMS properties.

Eating antioxidant-rich fruits in general is a great way to reduce ! Antioxidant activity considered stronger than that of your risk of developing cancer, but eating Kakadu plums might be Vitamin E. particularly beneficial. A study published in the journal Nutrition ! Anti-inflammatory action reduces the appearance of and Cancer found that polyphenols extracted from Kakadu plums fine lines and wrinkles. ! Behaves like an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). had significant inhibitory activity against cancer cell lines. These anti-cancer effects were largely attributed to the ability of the Kakadu plum extract to induce apoptosis (self-destruction) in PHENOLIC ANTIOXIDANT: GALLIC ACID ! Gallic acid is known for its anti-inflammatory, anticancer cells. fungal and anti-viral properties. ! Gallic acid acts as an antioxidant to protect skin cells ANTI-BACTERIAL PROPERTIES PROVEN BY from free radicals.

LABORATORY STUDIES !

Excellent wound healer and may have a use in the A study published in the February 2011 issue of the journal treatment of psoriasis.

Pharmacognosy Journal reported that Kakadu plum extracts also have strong anti-bacterial and anti-microbial properties. A PHENOLIC ANTIOXIDANT: ELLAGIC ACID deionised water extract of Kakadu plum, for example, inhibited ! Ellagic acid encourages elasticity and suppleness in the growth of 11 of the 14 bacteria tested (79%). It showed aged skin. particularly strong anti-bacterial activity against Gram-positive ! Reduces inflammation of skin cells. bacteria, inhibiting the growth of all tested Gram-positive microbes (B. cereus, S. aureus, S. epidermidis and S. pyogenes).

References

KAKADU PLUM IN SKINCARE Kakadu Plum has amazing properties that can also deliver great results in skincare. With its high vitamin C content (32005000mg/100g, compared to 50mg/100g for oranges) it is a powerful antioxidant protecting the skin against environmental ageing. Vitamin C is essential for the formation of proline, an amino acid that is required to make collagen. Due to its massive vitamin C content, Kakadu Plum included in skincare is becoming increasingly popular as it helps plump and restore skin cell, resulting in excellent anti-ageing effects.

Vitamin C is also a skin brightener used to correct dark circles, pigmentation, age spots and provide a general radiance boost.

For this reason Kakadu plum can provide great results in improving skin clarity and luminosity.

I. Konczak et al (2010). Antioxidant capacity and hydrophilic phytochemicals in commercially grown native Australian fruits. Food Chemistry, 123(4), 1048-1054.

M. Netzel et al (2007). Native Australian fruits – a novel source of antioxidants for food. Innovative Food Science & Emerging Technologies, 8(3), 339-346 Aaron C. Tana, Izabela Konczak and Iqbal Ramzan (2011). Native Australian Fruit Polyphenols Inhibit Cell Viability and Induce Apoptosis in Human Cancer Cell Lines. Nutrition and Cancer, 63(3), 444-455.

I.E. Cocka and S. Mohantya (2011). Evaluation of the antibacterial activity and toxicity of Terminalia ferdinandia fruit extracts.

Pharmacognosy Journal, 3(20), 72-79.

Its medicinal properties also provide added benefits to skin and health. As we have mentioned above its phytochemicals consist of gallic and ellagic acids, which also support the skin with additional antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal activities and also anti-inflammatory properties offering substantial benefits also in skin health.

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IN SUMMARY There are four main reasons why Kakadu Plum is such an important active to look for in skincare products:

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healthscience

Keeping your heart happy An interview with Dr Ross Walker The integrative approach is the new way that is redefining our industry. As research information comes to hand practitioners are becoming familiar with advances in areas of health and wellbeing and looking at ways to incorporate any new knowledge to improve how they take care of the needs of their clients. Today's consumers value any service or advice that will assist them not just to look better, but also to minimise their stress levels, slow the ageing process and protect them against the onslaught of disease.

Dr Ross Walker is a renowned authority in the area of cardiovascular health and specialises in the method of accurately assessing heart disease called echocardiography.

He is a published author in preventative cardiology and national and an international lecturer on this subject. Statistics confirm that in Australia heart conditions are the second-largest cause of death. In this article Dr Walter uncovers some interesting research as well presents lifestyle and nutritional tips on how to optimise heart health and improve our wellbeing.

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APJ Q1: CAN YOU PLEASE SHARE WITH US WHAT THE CURRENT RESEARCH IS CONFIRMING ON THE MAJOR CONTRIBUTING FACTORS TO ACCELERATED AGEING, SUCH AS INFLAMMATION, OXIDATIVE STRESS AND IMMUNE DYSFUNCTION? The key to understanding the ageing process is realising that our physiology was designed for hunter-gatherers. Basically, physiology is designed first to wander around and hunt for around 30-40 years. Ten thousand years ago the average age of death was somewhere between this age range. The cause of death was either infection or trauma. Modern humans are now living well past their use by date. The peak of anyone's life is 30 years. From that age onward we start to go downhill. As we progress beyond age 50 our hormones start to decline and the ageing process goes into acceleration mode.

Our immune system was only designed to cope with infections, and our clotting system was only designed for trauma. We also had to use our legs to wander around the jungle to obtain food.

Back in hunter-gatherer days we were basically slightly malnourished and constantly moving. In our modern world we are over-nourished and very sedentary, being bombarded by processed packaged items masquerading as food.

Thus any extra nutrients we do not use for metabolism or movement are laid down as either plaques in the wall of the arteries or abdominal fat. The immune system then reacts to try and remove these extra fat deposits, but the more fat that is laid down the stronger the immune response. Thus a chronic inflammatory reaction occurs. The more effort the immune system has to put into these types of reactions, the less ability it has to maintain normal body homeostasis. Any waste products created by this chronic inflammatory response then leads to oxidative stress. The body is then plunged into a spiral of chronic inflammation, oxidative stress and immune dysfunction.

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Happiness, peace and contentment: There is a large body of scientific evidence demonstrating the enormous benefits of these three key components.

When a person is unhappy and under stress there is less attention to important lifestyle factors and also significant release of stress hormones.

APJ Q3: IN YOUR OPINION, WHAT ARE THE BEST TESTS FOR A MORE ACCURATE ASSESSMENT OF ONE'S CURRENT HEALTH STATUS, SUCH AS CORONARY CALCIUM SCORE, GUT AND HORMONAL STATUS THAT CAN ASSIST IN PREVENTATIVE MEASURES FOR OPTIMISED HEALTH? There are now well-established tests for all major degenerative diseases in our modern world. Cardiovascular disease and in particular, heart disease is best assessed with coronary calcium scoring. Unfortunately, there has been a recent push for intravenous CT coronary angiography as a screening test. There are no validated studies to show that this gives any further prognostic benefit over coronary calcium scoring, but it is much more expensive and does require a much larger radiation dose for most machines commonly used.

A recent study from the United States of followed 5000 people over the age of 45 for 10 years. The study clearly demonstrated that those subjects with a 0 coronary calcium score had such a low event rate that statin drugs to lower cholesterol were of no value. It is my opinion that all males at 50 years old and all females at 60 years old should have a coronary calcium score as a form of risk assessment.

There are now very accurate screening tests for a number of common cancers, including the basic faecal occult test, blood testing and the more definitive colonoscopy for colon cancer.

Although in some circles mammography is controversial as a basic screening test for breast cancer, there are a few studies APJ Q2: WHAT IS THE BEST INTEGRATIVE APPROACH confirming mammography's ability to produce death from breast YOU WOULD RECOMMEND TO SUPPORT HEALTH AND cancer. A large study has confirmed CT lung scanning in smokers MITIGATE THE IMPACT OF ANY OF THE ABOVE as a way of detecting early lung cancer. There is still an ongoing controversy regarding PSA screening for prostate cancer.

DEGENERATIVE PROCESSES?

The main points in supporting health and mitigating the impact of Over the past decade there has been an increasing focus on the any of the above degenerative processes are the following five human microbiome in general health. Some clinicians are now key principles to healthy living. ordering stool tests to determine the predominant bacterial species residing in the colon. There will almost certainly be an 1. Have no addictions: You cannot be healthy and smoke, increasing focus on targeted probiotic therapy to correct drink too much alcohol or use illegal drugs 2. Good-quality sleep: 7-8 hours of good-quality sleep abnormalities in this region.

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every night is as good for the body as not smoking High-quality nutrition and supplementation: The best diet is the Mediterranean diet. Populations who consume this diet have anywhere between a 30-50% reduction in cardiovascular disease, metabolic syndrome and Alzheimer's disease. There is also abundant evidence in the scientific literature for the additional best benefit of high-quality supplementation.

Many of the clinical trials that are performed by conservative medicine have either been used in adequate doses of poor-quality vitamins, or the trials were too short in people with very advanced disease.

Exercise: 3-5 hours of exercise on a weekly basis has been shown to reduce common degenerative diseases by anywhere between 30-50%.

Many practitioners in complementary medicine are now ordering saliva hormone tests to assess the status of the hormonal system.

APJ Q4: CAN YOU SHARE WITH US THE ROLE OF DEFICIENCIES THAT CONTRIBUTE TO ACCELERATED AGEING AND HOW THESE CAN BE ADDRESSED THROUGH AN EVIDENCE BASED INTEGRATIVE APPROACH? Although a true nutritional deficiency such as beriberi or pellagra is rare in the modern world, many people are suffering subtle deficiencies of micronutrients. Only 10% of the population are consuming the suggested, adequate intake of fruit and vegetables.

This is considered to be 2-3 pieces of fruit per day and 3-5 servings of vegetables. Polyphenols are the new buzz word in

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nutrition. It can be said that many people are suffering a the maintenance of healthy bones. There is also some recent work to suggest that vitamin K 2 is an arterial decalcifier. The polyphenol deficiency. aforementioned statin therapy also reduces vitamin K 2 levels.

As we age, our DNA repair becomes less efficient. With each turnover of the various cells in the body, especially when we go Vitamin K2 is an essential co-factor in the GMK enzyme system beyond the use by date of 40, the DNA becomes less tight and and there are now a number of studies supporting the use of more prone to mutation. The key enzyme in this system is 180mcg daily of Vitamin K2 for osteoporosis that also acts as an controlled by the MTHFR gene. Multivitamins work by arterial decalcifier. maintaining good function of the MTHFR gene. Thus, in many ways, as we age, we develop a vitamin deficiency because of the There has been a significant controversy over the past few years essential nature of high-dose B vitamins in maintaining the about the value of Omega 3 supplementation. Most of the studies performed by conservative medicine have shown clearly that function of this gene. supplementing with Fish Oil is of no value. There was one very Another key deficiency that develops as we age is that of poorly done study that actually suggested Fish Oil supplements coenzyme Q10. The active component of coenzyme Q10 is may increase prostate cancer risk. ubiquinol. There is an enzyme called diaphorase, which converts the inactive ubiquinone to active ubiquinol. As we age this Until recently no-one would dispute the value of having two to enzyme decreases in our body. This lack of ubiquinol is three fish meals per week, but over the past decade there have exacerbated by statin therapy to lower cholesterol. It is therefore been a number of studies suggesting that the fish population of the my opinion that all people over the age of 50 should be taking world has been contaminated by the heavy shipping lines and now ubiquinol in a dose of at least 150 mg daily to counteract this there is a significant proportion of methyl mercury and dioxins found in fish and thus the benefits of the omega 3 oils in fish have deficiency. been outweighed by the contamination of fish by the subsequent Around 1/3 of the Australian population has low vitamin D levels. contamination of our waterways.

The slip, slop, slap message from the Cancer Council has been very effective in reducing skin cancer rates, but has certainly A relatively recent study from Auckland University had contributed to this deficiency. We therefore need around 15 suggested that many fish oil supplements did not contain the dose minutes in the sun during the non-burning times, before 10 am and suggested on the bottle and also there was increased oxidation of after 3 pm or take as a prevention at least 1000 international units many of these supplements. Since that time the Australian TGA has repeated the testing on the same high quality Australian of vitamin D 3 daily. supplements and found that there is no evidence to support the Vitamin K 2 has also been shown to be an important cofactor in Auckland data. A recent meta-analysis of fish oil supplementation

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showed no reduction in cardiovascular disease but unfortunately Statin drugs also deplete Ubiquinol in the mitochondria which, as the average length of the trials in this meta-analysis was only one mentioned previously, is also a component of ageing and thus, all people on statins should be taking at least 150mg daily of year.

Ubiquinol along with some form of Magnesium Orotate 400When a homogeneous group was studied in Italy (the GISSI 800mg a day, which increases the CoQ10 levels in the Study) there was a 50% reduction in sudden cardiac death in those mitochondria. patients after a heart attack who took 1000mg of omega 3 daily for It is my opinion that all patients with proven heart disease should 12 months. be on as low a dose of statin to achieve cholesterol targets. Added There is no doubt that Omega 3 supplements have anti- to this should be BergaMet Pro Plus. BergaMet Mega comes from arrhythmic, anti-inflammatory and some degree of cholesterol bergamot oranges grown on the southern Ionic strip of Calabria in modifying effect and plaque stabilisation.

Italy. BergaMet Mega has been shown to affect all parameters of metabolic syndrome, change small dense LDL to the healthier Thus, in many ways, a great bulk of the population living in our large buoyant LDL. Sometimes you may see a reduction in modern world have subtle deficiencies of micronutrients that can cholesterol but typically you will see a reduction in triglycerides be corrected by adequate supplementation. and an elevation in HDL, indicating a shift to the healthier LDL pattern.

I also presented a paper at the Australian Cardiac Society APJ Q5: STUDIES CONFIRM THAT CORONARY HEART meeting in 2012 demonstrating that BergaMet acts DISEASE IS THE LEADING UNDERLYING CAUSE OF synergistically with statins to maintain cholesterol levels at half DEATH IN AUSTRALIA, FOLLOWED BY DEMENTIA AND the standard prescribed dose of statin therapy. The aim should be a ALZHEIMER'S DISEASE, AND CEREBRAL VASCULAR cholesterol of >4.0, triglyceride >1.0 and HDL above 1.5 along DISEASES (WHICH INCLUDES STROKE). THESE ARE with a blood sugar level >5.0 and a haemoglobin A1c below 5.5.

ALARMING STATISTICS – WHAT DO WE KNOW ABOUT To minimise any side-effects from statin therapy in this situation I CHOLESTEROL, HEART ENERGY AND OVERALL HEART would also add in Ubiquinol 150-300mg daily, Magnesium HEALTH, AND HOW CAN WE SUPPORT HEART HEALTH? Orotate 400-800mg daily, Vitamin K2 180mcg daily and if There is no doubt that cardiovascular disease is the leading cause of death in Australia; this includes heart disease and cerebrovascular diseases. Over the past decade there has been increasing controversy surrounding the role of cholesterol in heart disease. Many people have the misconception that there is a bad cholesterol LDL and a good cholesterol HDL.

possible, Ateronon which is a concentrated form of lactolycopene that has been shown to not only support breast and prostate health but also improve arterial elasticity.

About Dr Ross Walker Dr Walker has a medical practice in Lindfield on the upper North Shore of Sydney. He provides a service in all aspects of echocardiography, focussing on stress echocardiography which is a well accepted, accurate method for assessing heart disease, not involving irradiation or injections. There are presently no other stress echo services on the upper North Shore.

The reality is that both LDL and HDL are divided into small and large components and it is the small dense aspects of LDL and HDL that contribute to cardiovascular disease. Small dense LDL cholesterol is pro-atherogenic, i.e puts fat in the arteries. Small dense HDL is pro-inflammatory, i.e. recruits the immune system to be part of the process. Large LDL (which makes up most of Dr Walker commenced stress echocardiography in 1992 and has your cholesterol) is an important chemical for many reactions since performed 15,000 studies, over 30,000 trans thoracic echoes within the body.

Large LDL promotes a healthy blood/brain barrier, healthy cell metabolism, and a healthy cell wall, is a basic ring for steroid metabolism and is vital in bile salt and Vitamin D metabolism.

Large HDL is involved in reverse cholesterol transport where the cholesterol is basically removed from the wall of the arteries. It is far too simplistic to say high cholesterol causes heart disease as the evidence for this is truly lacking apart from specific conditions such as familial hypercholesterolemia and an elevated Lipoprotein (a).

Seventy per cent of heart disease is in fact directly related to insulin resistance and its varying manifestations as the metabolic syndrome, i.e. tendency to diabetes, hypertension, elevated cholesterol, triglyceride and low HDL along with abdominal fat.

Treatments directed at controlling insulin resistance will be far more effective in reducing coronary artery disease than purely pushing doses of statins to very high levels. Statin drugs are the most highly prescribed drugs in the world and should only be used in people who have had a heart attack, stent, bypass or a coronary equivalent such as a stroke or in people with a significant elevation in coronary calcium. They should not be prescribed purely to reduce cholesterol levels in asymptomatic people.

and 2,000 trans oesophageal echoes. Stress echocardiography provides much more information to the practitioner than stress testing alone. His other area of expertise is in the field of preventative cardiology and he has also commenced a related service in arterial screening, which is an indirect measure of endothelial function and arterial stiffness, and does not involve irradiation or injections. Dr Walker has published six books on preventative cardiology and lectures both nationally and internationally on this subject.

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For further information on Dr Ross Walker visit: http://www.drrosswalker.co m/about-dr-ross-walker/

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS More light shed on skin disease New studies in non-dermatology journals provide helpful insight into the genetic toll of sun damage, the potential skinprotecting effects of vitamin B3, the sunexposure threat posed by automobile side windows and the possible (if seemingly improbable) dangers lurking in some produce. That's the word from Andrea Murina, M.D., an assistant professor of dermatology at Tulane University School of Medicine.

On the genetic front, she pointed to a recent Science study [2015 May 22;348(6237):880-6] that examined 234 biopsies of normal eyelid skin in four subjects aged 55-73. The study revealed signs of “driver” mutations that are linked to skin cancer even in seemingly healthy skin. The study suggests that dermatologists have been wise to treat the areas around pre-cancerous lesions in addition to the lesions themselves, she says.

“Even normal skin with no sign of precancer is so damaged that it's starting to go on the pathway of cancer,” she says.

“We've always felt there's more than meets the eye. Now, the stuff we were thinking the whole time is being validated by research.”

It's “incredible” to see the amount of damage, she adds, and “it makes you wonder why we don't see more skin cancer, although we are seeing more than ever.” The findings, she says, also show the importance of urging younger people to protect their skin from the sun.

Dr. Murina is also intrigued by a New England Journal of Medicine study [2016 Feb 25;374(8):790] that suggests twicedaily 500-mg doses taken internally of

nicotinamide – a form of vitamin B3 – may provide protection against skin cancer. The study linked the supplement to lower levels of non-melanoma skin cancers and actinic keratosis.

“We've done other studies on vitamins and skin cancers, and overall they've come up pretty short when they've been analysed in long-term clinical trials,” she says. But this study, she says, stands apart.

“We may be able to tell our high-risk patients to take a vitamin,” she says. “But we don't know why this happens or how long it lasts.” As she notes, the study only tracked patients for a year.

Dr. Murina also notes a new study in JAMA Ophthalmology [2016 Jul 1;134(7):772-5] that examined UVA exposure in 29 cars from 15 manufacturers. On average, front windshields blocked 96 percent of UVA, while side windows only blocked 71%.

The level of protection varied by car, she says, based on how the window is made.

The amount of side-window sun exposure could really add up in certain people, she says, such as those who travel over exceptionally long commutes.

Finally, Dr. Murina points to the oddest research in the bunch: Research suggesting that citrus fruits could spell trouble for the skin.

A C a rc i n o g e n e s i s s t u d y [ 2 0 1 5 Oct;36(10):1162-8] links higher consumption of citrus products to slightly higher rates of basal cell carcinoma and squamous cell carcinoma over 24-26 years; the research linked consumption of non-citrus whole fruits and juices to a lower risk.

Meanwhile, a Journal of Clinical Oncology study [2015 Aug 10;33(23):2500-8] links higher citrus fruit consumption – especially grapefruit – to higher levels of melanoma over 24-26 years.

What's happening? It's possible, Dr. Murina says, that chemicals known as furocoumarins are making skin more sunsensitive. But for now, she says, there's not enough evidence to prove causality, so you and your patients may still be able to chow down on citrus in peace.

Ref:http://dermatologytimes.modern medicine.com

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APJ 100

LASER TATTOO REMOVAL: RETHINKING INK A recent report stated that although picosecond lasers have changed the tattoo-removal game, older technologies such as Q-switched lasers remain very valuable players, experts say.

Now available in three wavelengths, picosecond lasers have made some of the toughest-to-treat tattoo colours the easiest, says Roy Geronemus, M.D., director of the Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York and clinical professor of dermatology at New York University Medical Center.

First on the market was the PicoSure (Cynosure), which operates at the 755 nm alexandrite wavelength. "Although it can be used for many colours, the home run with that device has been with blue and green ink." In previously untreated tattoos, he says, this laser often removes these colours in one to three sessions – versus 10 to 15 or more with Q-switched lasers, which could still leave residual ink.

Darker colours and resistant tattoos also fare better with the 755 nm picosecond laser than they did with Q-switched lasers, he adds. In February 2015, the FDA cleared a 532 nm Laser Delivery System that's available as an add-on to the PicoSure platform.

With the 532 nm wavelength, yellow link – which previously proved very difficult to remove – disappears in one to four treatments. "We're seeing good results with red and orange as well,"

says Dr. Geronemus.

Picosecond lasers that combine the 532 nm (KTP) and 1,064 nm Nd:YAG wavelengths include the PicoWay (Syneron & Candela) and the enlighten (Cutera).

Eric F. Bernstein, M.D., M.S.E., who was first to use the PicoWay laser, says, "If you can only have one laser for tattoo removal, it's got to be an Nd:YAG because epidermal melanin absorbs less energy at this wavelength so it allows you to treat all skin types. And Nd:YAG lasers are great for removing black ink."

Although less effective than the 755 nm wavelength for blue and green ink, he adds, the PicoWay's 532 nm laser removes red ink extremely well. Dr. Bernstein participated in the multicenter trial leading to FDA approval clearance, with Arielle Kauvar, M.D., and Tina Alster, M.D. In this study, 86% of patients received at least 50% clearance after three treatments, based on blinded, independent review of digital images.

Regarding picosecond lasers' efficacy, George Hruza, M.D., M.B.A., says that one must treat tattoos with a pulse width shorter than 10 ns, the thermal relaxation time of a typical 0.1 µm tattoo particle. He is a Chesterfield, Missouri-based dermatologist in private practice.

"If you treat a tattoo particle with a longpulsed laser such as intense pulsed light, the tattoo particle heats up and gradually

heats all the surrounding area," creating scarring but no fading. Conversely, "When you treat it with a very short pulse – and with the picosecond lasers it's clear that the shorter, the better – the tattoo particle heats up so fast that it shatters."

Available picosecond laser pulses measure one-third to three-fourths of a nanosecond, he says. In contrast, Qswitched Nd:YAG lasers offer five to 10 ns pulse durations; Q-switched alexandrite lasers, 50 ns, he says.

Moreover, says Dr. Bernstein, "Picosecond laser technology won't just be used for tattoo removal, in my opinion. Because picosecond lasers produce more of a shockwave, or photoacoustic effect, rather than just heat, they act differently on the skin than traditional nanosecond-domain Qswitched lasers or other fractionated lasers. To me, that means there's potential going forward to use these lasers for all sorts of applications we are as yet unaware of, such as to improve scarring or photodamage."

Already, says Dr. Geronemus, adding a fractional handpiece makes the 755 nm PicoSure safe and effective for acne scarring, striae and no-downtime rejuvenation, even in dark skin types.

“That's a big deal.”

Ref:http://dermatologytimes.modern medicine.com

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APJ 101

PROBIOTICS FOR HEALTHY SKIN Probiotics, which are helpful bacteria that protect the body from harmful bacteria, are literally everywhere.

Strolling through the aisles of any grocery store, we can find yogurts, milks, juices, and other consumables that contain naturally-occurring probiotics such as lactobacillus or bifidobacterium, or foodstuffs that are artificially teeming with these celebrated organisms. Upon further probing you will discover “prebiotics,” or non-digestible food ingredients (such as cellulose) that promote the growth of beneficial microorganisms in the intestines.

In light of increasing antibiotic resistance due to over and misuse, coupled with patients' preferences for more holistic, natural approaches to healing, scientists confirm that we are entering an era of anti-antibiotics and pro-probiotics?

Replacing the drugs with the bugs, if you will? There is, in fact, interesting literature on the various applications of probiotics in skin health, and for integrative practitioners striving to combine the best of allopathy with nature's bounty, several of these studies are here mentioned.

Acne In 2014, Bowe et al reviewed a theory from 1930 known as the “gut-brain-skin axis” — essentially, the idea that disturbed emotional states such as stress, anxiety and depression can reciprocally contribute to altered gut flora (SIBO: small intestinal bacterial overgrowth) and GI leakage, which in turn recruits a systemic inflammatory response with skin manifestations such as acne. While this theory has not been directly studied with respect to acne, Parodi and colleagues showed in 2008 that patients with rosacea had a ten-fold greater incidence of SIBO as compared to

healthy controls. Additionally, studies examining the therapeutic benefit of oral and topical probiotic administration in mild acne patients within the last decade have been promising, with mechanistic theories including decreased release of inflammatory mediators as well as increased production of ceramide and skin barrier restoration.

Atopic Dermatitis Stapholococcus colonisation of skin compromised by eczema is a common and known phenomenon, as is the inflammatory basis of atopic dermatitis.

As such, probiotics theoretically confer a dual benefit of antimicrobial as well as anti-inflammatory therapy. In practice, however, the data is mixed. Initial studies of different strains of oral lactobacillus for both prevention and treatment of atopic dermatitis were encouraging but follow-up reviews and meta-analyses have been conflicting.

Another difficulty in reviewing the literature is the lack of standardisation in which probiotic strains are tested, in what dosages, and administered to which study subject (pregnant/lactating mother vs. affected child). Overall, the risk of oral probiotic supplementation appears to be low (except for a theoretical risk of infection in immunocompromised patients), so until more convincing evidence emerges in either direction, use may be encouraged in the interested patient.

Of further significance, topical probiotics are another emerging approach to atopic dermatitis and barrier repair, with the additional benefit of increasing local ceramide production.

Ageing skin Probiotics may also protect the skin against photo-ageing. A recent study

examined the impact of orally supplementing mice with a bifidobacterium strain prior to UVB radiation, three times weekly for seven weeks. Compared to controls, supplementation significantly suppressed changes in trans epidermal water loss, skin hydration, epidermal thickening, and attenuated the damage to the tight junction structure and basement membrane induced by chronic UVB irradiation, possibly via measurablydecreased interleukin-1-beta production in the skin. This study confirmed prior research from 2014, where mouse supplementation with a bifidobacterium strain attenuated UV-induced barrier perturbation and oxidative stress of the skin, possibly via reduced generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS).

Glow of health As the adage goes, “You are what you eat”. So can consuming probiotics induce a “glow of health,” or even a fountain of youth? Levkovich's study in aged mice demonstrated an epithelial follicular anagen-phase shift with sebocytogenesis, resulting in thick lustrous fur – all from eating probioticsupplemented yogurt. Vegan needs are covered by kimchi, a fermented Korean cruciferous dish with naturally-occurring lactobacillus species. The fermented tea beverage known as kombucha confers four main properties: detoxification, antioxidation, energising potencies, and promotion of depressed immunity. At every turn, we are confronted with consumables teeming with bacteria, the Good Guys of the New Frontier.

Ref: Kumar S, Mahajan BB, Kamra N. Future perspective of probiotics in dermatology: an old wine in new bottle.

Dermatol Online J. 2014;20(9).

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APJ 102

INTERESTING FACTS ABOUT DERMAL FILLERS Botox used to be the “go-to” anti-ageing treatment of choice, but a growing number of consumers and doctors are now turning to dermal fillers as a way to restore a more youthful appearance to the face. Instead of freezing wrinkle-forming muscles, injectable fillers work by replacing the volume that is lost as levels of collagen under the skin diminish over time. They can also be used in conjunction with Botox for greater effectiveness.

While many consumers are afraid of ending up with duck lips or over-volumised faces, surprising facts about soft-tissue fillers may convince them to add them to their rejuvenation regimen. Here is some interesting information: How long have dermal fillers been around?

Interestingly fillers have been around for over 100 years. They were invented in the late 1800s by Austrian surgeon Robert Gersuny, who experimented with mineral oil (Vaseline) and paraffin as a soft tissue filler for facial defects. The practice was quite popular until the mid-1920s, but ended due to severe complications, the most famous case being that of Gladys Deacon, Duchess of Marlborough. Described in her early life as one of the most beautiful women in the world, she was disfigured after receiving an injection of hot paraffin wax into the nose.

How popular are fillers?

Use of soft tissue fillers increased 6 per cent in 2015 to 2,440,724 procedures performed in the US and were the 2nd most popular procedure, with hyaluronic acid being the injectable filler of choice, accounting for 2,148,326 of all injections Some soft tissue fillers all synthetic?

Collagen and hyaluronic acid are two types of naturally derived dermal fillers on the market today. Hyaluronic acid is a substance naturally produced in your body and was approved as a dermal filler by the FDA in 2003. Collagen fillers were FDA-approved in 1981, and can be bovine or humanderived. Another natural filler is your own fat – surgeons can harvest it from the body (typically from the love handles), and then inject it into the recipient site.

On the other hand some contain synthetic material. Some brands of dermal fillers add non-organic material such as polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA), liquid silicone, or

calcium hydroxylapatite to the hyaluronic injection. These synthetic materials can't be broken down and absorbed by the body, which makes fillers like Sculptra and Radiesse semi-permanent.

The effects are usually temporary There isn't a hard and fast rule that determines how long the filler will last. It depends a lot on the type of filler used.

Unless it's a semi-permanent injectable, the body usually reabsorbs fillers within as little as three months, although the effects may last several years. Furthermore, studies have shown that combining the treatment with Botox can increase the longevity of HA fillers.

It takes a lot to over-do it The rule of thumb for estimating how much filler you need to rejuvenate your face is one syringe per decade. For example, if you're 30 you may need three syringes, and if you're 40 you may need four, etc.

It's not just for facial rejuvenation Fillers are primarily used in the face to restore volume and fill in deep wrinkles and nasal folds, but they're also used elsewhere to rejuvenate the body. For instance, Radiesse has been FDA-approved for subdermal implantation into the hands to smoothen out wrinkles and hide pronounced veins. Dr. Rostan also uses fillers off-label to support droopy earlobes, which helps women wear their favorite heavy earrings a bit better.

Fillers are not FDA-approved for the breasts or buttocks.

“Patients ask, but we don't do a whole lot of that in my area,” says Dr. Rostan of consumers' interest in injectable breast enhancement. In addition to it not being FDA-approved, it would take a lot of dermal filler, she says. In the EU and UK, Macrolane is a semi-permanent dermal filler available for non-surgical breast enlargement, and Auquafill is advertised in some Asian countries for the same purpose. Both fillers

are controversial, and are involved in a high rate of complications, including migration, lumps, encapsulation, loss of ability to breastfeed, and infections.

Use by men is growing It's not just women who are filling up, male patients replacing soft tissue grew by 6% in 2015. However, the products they use tend to be different from their female counterparts.'

While women look great plump, men are afraid to look “puffy,” says Dr. Rostan. To give them a more chiselled look, she often uses fillers that aren't HA-based, such as Radiesse or Sculptra.

It actually stimulates collagen growth Nothing can permanently stop the body's depletion of collagen, but soft-tissue fillers may slow the drain. Over time, some dermal fillers stimulate the body to produce collagen at the injection site, which means that patients may require less of the product over the years to achieve the same look.

The risk of side-effects is small, but complications can be serious Side-effects are extremely rare, says Dr. Rostan, but they can be serious and occur months or even years after injection.

Bacterial infections account for many of the complications, and occur when pathogenic micro-organisms such as Streptococcus aureus (staph infection) penetrate through the skin puncture. Another rare complication occurs when a dermal filler is unintentionally injected in a blood vessel, which can lead to serious adverse effects such as vision impairment, blindness, stroke, or damage and death of the skin (necrosis) and its underlying facial structures. For these reasons, Dr. Rostan cautions patients against receiving fillers in non-medical settings by unlicensed technicians.

While fillers are used for cosmetic purpose they are a drug and should only be administered by a medical practitioner or a qualified nurse under the supervision of a doctor.

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APJ 103

DO WE NEED TO EXFOLIATE THE EYES? afterward, and exfoliation is an essential part of that process," says Schultz.

A c c o r d i n g t o N e w Yo r k C i t y dermatologist Neal Schultz the thin skin around your eyes typically looks 10n years older than the rest of your face, since dead cells dull the area and lines emerge here first. "Gentle daily exfoliation of the eye area can help it look younger and glowing by creating a smoother surface that better reflects light," he adds.

Eye exfoliation also encourages collagen production that leads to more elasticity, which means skin can bounce back more easily from lines formed while smiling or squinting. "People focus on how showing emotion causes wrinkles, but what is more important is that you're keeping skin elastic enough to flatten out again

However, you don't want to just go at this area with scrubs or strong chemicals, warns Rebecca Kazin, MD, of the Washington Institute of Dermatologic Laser Surgery and the John Hopkins Department of Dermatology. She suggests eye creams with lower concentrations of hydroxy acids or retinol as the most effective way to exfoliate.

"Where you apply exfoliating eye cream is important, too," says Kazin. Starting at the area lower than your eye-socket bone, tap the formula on with your ring finger, and work around to the crow's feet, up and around to the browbone.

Those areas more closely resemble the texture of facial skin and will reap the rewards. Stay away from the area directly

underneath the lower lash line and the eyelids, which are too thin and won't benefit.

While layering skincare has been all the rage for a while now, you actually don't want to overlap products in the eye area, says New York City dermatologist Craig Austin, founder of Cane+Austin.

Doubling up on formulas that may contain multiple exfoliating ingredients is too much for the eye area and could leave you peeling and red, so keep your facial products away from your eyes. And pick one workhorse. "Glycolic acid and retinol should never be used together. Go with one or the other, or rotate them out on separate days around the eyes," advises Austin.

And just as you do after exfoliating your face, it's important to follow up with sunscreen. "Use a gentle SPF under the eye or an eye cream with SPF, and wear sunglasses to protect your eyes," Austin urges. And as with all things skin, harmful UV sun rays can negate and even reverse results, as well as increase your chance of skin cancer.

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Bupa Australia

Corporate cover that looks after your health and wellbeing We've teamed up with APAN to bring you great value corporate health cover. You can look forward to competitive corporate cover options and benefits such as: Say goodbye to 2 and 6 month waiting periods on extras when you combine hospital and extras cover – giving you immediate access to general dental, optical, physiotherapy and chiropractic.* Benefit Bonus - we will treat you like you have been a Bupa member for 3 years from day one so you can claim more back on extras straight away. To benefit, simply take out Platinum, Gold or Silver Extras cover.** Even when you’re in great health, there are still plenty of ways to get everyday value thanks to Bupa Plus. We’ve recently introduced this program to give you access to an exclusive range of health discounts, tools and more to help you live a healthier, happier life. Visit bupaplus.com.au A 2% discount off your health cover+

To find out more about joining your company's health plan

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*Only for new customers on new hospital and extras cover policies issued by Bupa HI Pty Ltd ABN 81 000 057 590. 2 & 6 month waiting period waiver applies to extras. Fund and policy rules, waiting periods and yearly limits apply. **Benefit Bonus applies each calendar year and increases after the first 12 months from the start year. Get 2% more back on your extras claims each year, up to a maximum of 10%. Only available on Platinum, Gold and Silver Extras. Existing Bupa customers will start from the Benefit Bonus year of their existing plan or transfer, whatever is greatest. +Discount is reviewed periodically by Bupa and your Company and is subject to change. Must pay by direct debit or payroll deduction (if available). Bupa HI Pty Ltd ABN 81 000 057 590.

apanconference

Getting Ready for Positive Change APAN SYDNEY AESTHETICS CONFERENCE REPORT With a wonderful mix of industry topics, education, business, science and cosmetic medicine the APAN Sydney conference once again attracted eager business owners, lecturers and committed practitioners who attended the event on Sunday June 26th. Delegates eager to increase their knowledge and expand the scope of business and professional options were greeted to a comprehensive conference program that did not fail to deliver.

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The event commenced with public relations executive, PR and news editor, Sue Papadoulis who came all the way from Perth, WA to present an informative lecture on how businesses can gain extra publicity by working effectively with journalists, bloggers and social medial influences.

She discussed and gave examples on how to expand their consumer reach through these amazing platforms. Sue covered angles and topics of interest when approaching media professionals to engage with your story. Her knowledge and information was enthusiastically received as businesses gained ways of increasing brand awareness and grow their client base.

Following Sue, Dr Zac Turner spoke on effective ways of working collaboratively with healthcare practitioners offering your clients an extended level of service, not just with injectables, but also through the introduction of peptides in improving energy levels, assisting their weight-loss efforts, improving vitality and energy and of course, supporting and enhancing underlying skin structure such as collagen and elastin integrity.

Tina Viney followed addressing how the new era in business development is bringing great opportunities to expand growth and professional status through carefully selected dynamic professional alliances and how to leverage of these program for your own benefit and gain. She addressed shifts and changes that are happening in the industry and made recommendations on how businesses need to seriously consider the options

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ageing and skin-improvement modalities. This lecture gained great interest and several businesses priorities to benefit from the training of these techniques.

Last, but not least Gay Wardle addressed practitioners and business on strategies for the effective treatment when addressing various pigmentation conditions and the scientific approach on achieving excellent results.

The event proved to be a great success as valuable networks were forged and businesses also benefited from valuable suppliers and educators who were also exhibiting at the event.

available to them in positioning themselves to stay ahead of these changes. The new APAN/THINK PINK initiative was also presented as was the new ARAP and CTARP registration programs and how these platforms can assist in business growth as well as support the industry in establishing the allimportant foundations for regulations.

Finishing off this year APAN will be launching their final conference program for 2016 in Perth at the beautifully appointed Crown Hotel on Sunday 23rd October for the benefit of all our eager members and businesses. Members and non-members are most welcome. Please check pages 3840 for further details.

After launch Professor Hayek presented a compelling lecture on the systemic mechanism of healing for both the skin and body. He discussed the important issue of immunity and the role it plays in optimising skin repair and identifying the symptoms and causes that compromise skin health.

International trainer and educator Kathy Pedersen introduced a new innovative treatment modality that is gaining global recognition in the area of skin rejuvenation and pain management. Static Magnetic Field therapy utilising acupoint matrix to initiate accelerated skin repair, is an amazing new tool for skin therapists to incorporate as part of their anti-

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APJ 108

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industryawards

2016 MYFACEMYBODYAWARDS, AUSTRALASIA

THE OSCARS OF AESTHETICS For only the second time in Australia, the prestigious MyFaceMyBody Awards will be held at the Sofitel, Sydneyon Saturday 26th November 2016. Also known as the Global Aesthetic Awards, this gala evening is the 'Oscars' of the aesthetic industry. A glittering, red carpet event attended by 350 leading industry professionals, plastic surgeons, brands, journalists, beauty bloggers and celebrities.

The esteemed MyFaceMyBody Awards are the only industry awards dedicated to the aesthetic industry, judged by consumers and a panel of respected experts. Held in LA, London and also in Sydney, the awards honour and reward brands for their product innovation and popularity. Practices are also rewarded for exceptional experiences and outstanding service to consumers.

Submissions are now open for the 21 categories, including brand awards, procedure and product, best practice regional and national and media awards for best practice website, best beauty journalist or beauty blogger of the year. The evening will be hosted by dashing, international television presenter, aesthetic expert and awards founder Stephen Handisides. An evening packed with award presentations, an array of exciting entertainment, fine wines, delicious cuisine and the chance to network with the who's who of the aesthetics industry.

Jenni Gilbert, Editor SPA+CLINIC. Dr. Gabrielle Caswell, (BSc (NTU), BSc (ECU), MB;BS (UQ), BA (UNE), Dip. Practical Dermatology.

Ricky Allen, psychologist, plastic surgery nurse consultant and respected beauty journalist.

Jenny Vallance, General Manager of the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery.

Tina Viney, President and CEO of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) and editor of Aesthetics Practitioners Journal (APJ Journal).

Mr. Adrian Richards, MBBS, MSc, FRCS (Plast.) Plastic & Cosmetic Surgeon.

Vicky Eldridge, Award-winning journalist and editor of Aesthetic Medicine Magazine.

Christoph Kraneiss, Vice-President, International Affairs ZO SKIN HEALTH, INC.

Dr. Sandeep H Cliff, BSc FRCP Consultant Dermatologist, Honorary Senior Lecturer, St Georges Medical School, Sub'The MyFaceMyBody Awards celebrate the innovation and Dean, Brighton and Sussex Medical School and Medical success within a fast-growing and exciting industry. Director, Sussex Community Dermatology Services.

MyFaceMyBody aim to bridge the gap between the aesthetic The MyFaceMyBody Awards are brought to you by Handi medicine market with mainstream beauty and fashion sectors and Media and gold sponsor 'Syneron Candela, your partner in the to enable brands and professionals to reach a wider aesthetic market'. The awards are supported by Vogue Australia, demographic,' said host and awards founder Stephen Handisides.

MailOnline, Costhetics, Bella Media, APAN and APJ Journal, The esteemed panel of judges includes respected experts from Filmon.TV, Spa+Clinic, The Intermedia Group. And charity partner the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Australia, America and the UK including: APAN/Think Pink - Skin & Wellness Month.

Michelle Kearney, Editor-in-Chief and Publisher of Cosmetic Surgery & Beauty Magazine, Aesthetic Medical Practitioner and To nominate, buy tickets or for more information CosBeauty.com.au.

Adam Downer, Managing Director of Costhetics, Australia's leading independent information source for cosmetic surgery and non-surgical cosmetic treatments.

please visit the website on http://www.globalaestheticawards.com/au

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accountingmatters

CHANGES TO BUSINESS RECORD KEEPING Are you up-to-date An interview with Vanessa Kirkham As a business owner you wear many hats for the various areas that you are managing. These may include staff development, marketing, brand development, as well as the dreaded areas of legal and regulatory compliances that you must meet. One of these is your financial record keeping and meeting with the requirements of the Australian Tax Office.

To help our members APAN has established a strategic alliance partnership with a qualified accountant and bookkeeper who also has extensive Tax Office experience (having been employed by the Tax Officer for several years), and with a background in beauty therapy. Vanessa Kirkham is a highlyskilled and very well versed with our industry having also originally qualified in Beauty Therapy and worked in this field for a number of years. This allows her to fully empathise with the challenges that many business owners have when trying to juggle several balls, while also meeting with their taxation obligations.

It is not uncommon for many new businesses to be doing their own financial record keeping, in an attempt to operate within a limited budget. However, if they choose to do so they are still required to abide by all the new Tax Officer requirements. For this reason we have asked Vanessa to update us on the new rules that every business needs to be made aware of.

and to comply with the new regulations you need to register with the Small Business Clearance House or a complying superannuation fund to lodge and pay your employees super contribution.

The Tax Office is also introducing a similar process for businesses to lodge their Business Activity Statements.

Computer programs such as MYOB, XERO and RECKON have upgraded their programs to meet with these requirements. The Tax Office is encouraging all businesses to conduct their transactions as much as possible on-line and move away from being a cash business.

I have been told by APAN that the Tax Office has regular meetings with them to helps them understand the needs of this industry. They are also looking more closely and auditing businesses that operate a great deal as a cash business. It therefore pays to ensure that your record-keeping is up-to-date and that you are complying with the new requirements.

Utilising an appropriate bookkeeping program and system will help streamline your financial record keeping, save you time and money and make it easier to maintain compliance in accordance to the requirements of the Tax Officer. It will also help you clearly identify your business progress - the risks, and what areas are the most profitable.

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APJ Q1: IN TERMS OF BUSINESS RECORD KEEPING WHAT NEW CHANGES HAVE BEEN INTRODUCED BY THE TAX OFFICE? From the 1st July 2016 there is now a requirement that superannuation contributions need to be lodged and paid electronically via the internet. We can no longer lodge our superannuation payments to the Tax Office via post. To do this

APJ Q2: I AM A NEW BUSINESS AND I AM OVERWHELMED WITH WHAT I NEED TO HAVE IN PLACE TO SET UP MY FINANCIAL RECORD KEEPING. MY ACCOUNTANT HAS ONLY GIVEN ME BASIC GUIDELINES AND IS AVAILABLE TO DO MY TAX LODGEMENTS, BUT I NEED MORE SUPPORT AND

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I love helping people and as I fully understand this industry. I am therefore very much aware of the struggles that many salons and clinics have in meeting with their tax obligations. They may be great business owners, but this is a different specialty area.

Delegating it to an expert will ensure their record-keeping can be professionally and efficiently handled and completed in much less time. This can ensure them peace of mind, knowing that their financial affairs are in order. It gives me a great deal of joy to be able to assist businesses in this way.

If you would like to speak to Vanessa about your bookkeeping needs please call her at Olive Gray Business Solutions 0412 707 044.

OLIVE GRAY BUSINESS SOLUTIONS We provide a flexible bookkeeping service, face-to-face or remotely.

Vanessa Kirkham has worked as a beauty therapist, and for the Tax Office. She understands the realities and needs of a salon business.

If you would like to discuss your needs with Vanessa please contact her on 0412 707 044

APAN is working closely with government regulatory bodies supporting the need for regulatory reform that better suits the aesthetics industry. While every practitioner must abide by their State regulatory requirements, this course can be of value to you to assist you in gaining a more in depth understanding of topical anaesthetics, their mechanism, safety considerations and contraindications.

In 2015 this course was conducted face-to-face however, there were numerous expressions of interest for the course to be made available through distance learning. We are pleased to offer the on-line version of it.

PART 1: INTRODUCTION TO THE SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS FOR COSMETIC PURPOSES The course is delivered by Compound Pharmacist Chris Testa, who is the owner and manager of Tugun Compounding Pharmacy, on the Gold Coast. Chris is also a highly respected lecturer on the topic of pharmaceutical compounding and the regulatory aspects of compounding which he delivers at the School of Pharmacy, Griffith University.

Learning Objectives include:

! An historical perspective ! A regulatory overview ! How topical anaesthetics work ! Different types of anaesthetics ! How topical anaesthetics are absorbed and metabolised ! Medication, supplements and !

medical conditions that affect the use of topical anaesthetics Introduction to the advanced training course

Chris Testa B. Bus., B. Pharm.

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This course will qualify for Continued Education Points towards the new registration – APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner.

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Olive Gray Business Solutions is an APAN strategic partner.

Now available through distance learning Understanding anaesthetics is paramount to the comfort of our clients or patients and the medium to ensure this is topical anaesthetics. While there are regulatory restrictions in the use of topical anaesthetics it is imperative that every practitioner who delivers treatments such as skin needling, cosmetic tattoo, or uses devices such as fraxel or various levels of lasers gains a thorough scientific understanding of the different anaesthetics included in numbing creams, how they are metabolised in the body and ways to ensure the safety of their use on a case-by-case basis.

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APJ Q3: VANESSA, YOU ARE A QUALIFIED ACCOUNTANT, WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO PROVIDE A BOOKKEEPING SERVICE?

APAN Accredited TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS Course

TW

It is well worth your while to get a qualified bookkeeper to set things up correctly for you. If you contact Olive Gray Business Solutions we offer APAN members a 30-minutes free consultation to point you in the right direction. Once the system is put in place you can either run it yourself, or access a good bookkeeper to service you on-line. Most of the programs now have capabilities that will allow your bookkeeper to service you remotely. It is important that you have a good relationship with this person to ensure the smooth running of your business, as they will be the middle person between you and your accountant.

For this reason it is important that they are qualified and also understand your industry to ensure that your business gains maximum benefits from your tax deductable options.

STHETI AE C

GUIDANCE, WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE ME?

A DV To register please visit E I S O RY N www.apanetwork.com and complete a Online Registration Form.

Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network Email: info@apanetwork.com | Phone: 07 5593 0360 APJ 113

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Reviewing the

SUGAR-FREE option of

STEVIA

By Tina Viney With the rise in metabolic syndrome in Australia and diabetes reaching an all-time-high, food researchers and manufacturers are looking at way to provide alternative and safer, natural solutions to sweeteners.

19th century that scientists began seriously investigating stevia, the indigenous people of Paraguay were using the plant as early as the 16th century to sweeten drinks and medicines.

During his studies of herbs used as sweeteners by native people, Dr Moises Santiago Bertoni, a Swiss botanist of Italian descent, is The fears over the health impact of sugar consumption and credited with having notified the world of stevia's existence.

concerns over the safety of some artificial sweeteners has contributed to a major boost to plant-based 'natural' sweeteners, and the development of new sweetener systems is already offering solutions to improving taste profiles. One such ingredient is stevia. There have been many conflicting reports about stevia, so in this article we will uncover the truth and what recent research is saying.

WHAT IS STEVIA – BACKGROUND AND HISTORY

French chemists identified stevioside in 1931 and its use expanded. In the 1950s, Japan began growing the stevia plant as a crop.

Countries with a history of using stevioside as a no-calorie sweetener include Japan, China, South Korea, Taiwan, Israel, Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay, Columbia, Thailand, Germany and Malaysia.

Stevia is an intensely sweet natural sweetener that is harvested around the world from the stevia rebaudiana plant. The plant grows in many countries around the world, predominantly in China and Brazil. Stevia grows to approximately 2-4 feet in height with slim, branched stems, and thrives in temperate and some tropical regions. Stevia is grown by natural, conventional plant breeding methods such as cross-pollination and other nongenetically modified processes.

Some of the common and trade names for stevia sweeteners are Enliten, PureVia, Rebaudioside A/Reb A, Rebaudioside B, Rebaudioside C, Rebaudioside D, Rebiana, Stevia, Steviacane, Steviol Glycosides, Stevioside, Stevia Extract In The Raw and SweetLeaf.

The plant provides an important role in biodiversity due to how little land is required to grow it, allowing farmers to diversify their crops. Unlike commodity crops, stevia is grown on smaller plots of land and provides supplemental income to more commonplace crops. As stevia is intensely sweet and an extract, it typically requires only a fifth of the land and much less water to provide the same amount of sweetness as other mainstream sweeteners. For example, in Kenya, stevia is typically grown on only a third of the land, with the rest of the land being devoted to other crops.

Stevia also contains certain vitamins (A, B, C), minerals (iron, zinc, calcium), electrolytes (sodium, potassium), proteins, and other elements.

HEALTH BENEFITS OF STEVIA

Steviol glycosides have zero calories. Stevia-based tabletop sweeteners can have zero or minimal calories per serving, Stevia is cultivated as a commercial crop in Japan, China, Kenya, depending upon the other food ingredients with which they are Vietnam, India, Argentina, Colombia, Thailand, Paraguay, and combined. These factors could have a positive effect on those Brazil. Currently, China is the leading exporter of stevia products. looking to control weight or manage diabetes.

Below, we take a look at the possible health benefits of stevia.

DIABETES

Research has shown that stevia sweeteners do not contribute calories or carbohydrates to the diet and do not affect blood glucose or insulin response, which allows people with diabetes to In a 2013 study, the carbon footprint of stevia was shown to be consume a wider variety of foods and comply with a healthful 79% lower than high fructose corn syrup (HFCS), 55% lower than meal plan. beet sugar, and 29% lower than cane sugar, based on industry A randomised controlled trial over 16 weeks had 122 participants production standards. take four doses of approximately 330 mg of steviol equivalents There are 150 species of stevia, all native to South and North over the course of a day. Compared to placebo, there was no America. The sweetness of the stevia leaves is caused by eight impact on blood sugar levels. For this study, >97% rebaudioside A glycosides contained within them. Although it was not until the was used.

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triterpenes, flavonoids and tannins. Some of flavonoid polyphenolic anti-oxidant phytochemicals present in stevia are kaempferol, quercetin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, isoquercitrin, and isosteviol. Studies have found that kaempferol can reduce the risk of pancreatic cancer by 23% (American The studies reported minimal to no effects on blood glucose, Journal of Epidemiology). insulin levels, hypertension and body weight. In one study showing minimal effects, subjects with type 2 diabetes reported BLOOD PRESSURE reduced postprandial blood glucose and glucagon response after a Certain glycosides in stevia extract have been found to dilate test meal of stevia versus placebo. blood vessels, increase sodium excretion and urine output. In effect at slightly higher doses WEIGHT CONTROL than as a sweetener, stevia can The causes of overweight and FACTS AT A GLANCE potentially help lower blood obesity around the globe are quite pressure. ! Stevia is a plant naturally grown in Brazil complex and include factors such The plant may have cardio-tonic as an increase in physical and Paraguay. actions, which normalise blood inactivity due to increased ! Stevia is much sweeter than sugar – the pressure and regulate heartbeat. sedentary time and increased The plant displayed vasodilatory intake of energy-dense foods that extract can taste 250-300 times sweeter actions in both normotensive are high in fat and added sugars. than table sugar. and hypertensive animals.

The intake of added sugars has ! The extract is contained in a number of been shown to contribute an STEVIA USE IN FOOD AND food items such as energy bars, candies, average of 16% of the total DRINKS protein drinks and some teas. calories in the American diet, and In combining calorie, has been linked to weight gain particularly sugar, reduction ! Since stevia is so much sweeter than and adverse effects on glycemic with naturalness, the spreading sugar, recipes require less of it. control. regulatory approval for stevia Additionally, a position paper on nutritive and non-nutritive sweeteners from the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics reviewed five randomised controlled trials examining the effects of stevia compared with placebos on metabolic outcomes.

Plant-based, zero calorie stevia can be part of a well-balanced diet to help reduce energy intake without sacrificing taste.

Replacing just 25g (about six teaspoons) of nutritive sweeteners in foods and beverages can provide a 100kilocalorie reduction.

!

Stevia does not brown and caramelise the same way sugar does.

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Stevia is calorie-free, but that does not necessarily mean you will lose weight if you swap sugar for stevia.

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The stevia leaves contain potassium, zinc, magnesium and vitamin B3.

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Based on the stevia nutrition facts, it is the 10.77% fibre that helps in curing constipation and promotes proper digestion.

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One of the benefits of stevia is that it contains a 702 ppm level of iron, which can stimulate the production of haemoglobin.

!

Stevia and other artificial sweeteners that have been approved for use in the US do not appear to pose any health risks when used in moderation.

METABOLISM Steviol glycosides are poorly absorbed in the body and pass through the upper gastrointestinal tract, including the stomach and small intestines, fully intact.

Once steviol glycosides reach the colon, gut bacteria hydrolyse steviol glycosides into steviol by snipping off their glucose units.

Steviol is then absorbed via the portal vein and primarily metabolised by the liver, forming steviol glucuronide, before being excreted in the urine.

sweeteners in markets such as the US, Australia and then the EU over the past five years or so has caused something of a revolution in sweetener use across a range of food and drinks markets. Australian Food News noted that recent announcement by global beverage giant The Coca-Cola Company of its Coke Life product, which is sweetened with stevia, makes it likely that stevia will take off in a big way.

Although The Coca-Cola Company is primarily a beverage company, the use of stevia by such a large brand, if it continues to prove successful, will likely have a flow-on effect into other sweetened food products.

RATE OF STEVIA USE IN DIFFERENT CATEGORIES

There are significant differences between product types, however, with sugar-free Research has shown that there is no accumulation of stevia (or any launches representing just 1 per cent of chocolate confectionery by-product of stevia) in the body during metabolism. It is a result introductions, rising to 7.5 per cent in sugar confectionery and to of this essentially poor absorption in the digestive tract, which over 63 per cent in chewing gum. ultimately contributes to the fact that stevia has zero calories and Even within the very diverse sugar confectionery market, does not raise blood glucose or insulin levels when digested. penetration varies by type of product, with sugar-free launches PANCREATIC CANCER focused particularly in the hard-candy market, where they Stevia plant has many sterols and antioxidant compounds like accounted for nearly one-fifth of introductions.

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Foods and beverages containing stevia can play an important role in decreasing calories from unwanted sweeteners in children's diets. There are now thousands of products containing naturally-sourced stevia on the market, ranging from salad dressing to snack bars, that allow children to consume foods and beverages that taste great without added calories.

FORMULATION PROBLEMS In its initial form, Stevia was sold as a ground-up powder of the stevia plant leaves. Although sweet, the powder also had a bitter aftertaste (mostly attributed to a compound found in the stevia plant called stevioside), which limited its acceptability as a sugar substitute for the health-store-shopping crowd. As a rule I have never liked stevia because of this bitter aftertaste, but in recent times I have found a substantial improvement in products with stevia. This is because manufacturers have now figured out how to retain the sweet taste and all of stevia's benefits without the aftertaste.

Multiple global regulatory organisations, including the Food and Agriculture Organisation of the UN (FAO) and World Health Organisation's (WHO) Joint Expert Committee on Food Additives (JECFA), European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) and the Food & Drug Administration (FDA) have determined that high-purity stevia extract is safe for consumption by the general population, including children, when consumed within the recommended levels.

ALLERGIES In 2010 the EFSA reviewed literature to determine if there was any cause for concern regarding the potential for allergenicity of the stevia plant. The reviewers concluded that "Steviol glycosides are not reactive and are not metabolised to reactive compounds, therefore, it is unlikely that the steviol glycosides under evaluation should cause by themselves allergic reactions when consumed in foods".

Additionally, it is worth pointing out that stevia plants are not genetically modified, and therefore there should be no concerns Although widely available throughout the world, in 1991 stevia regarding potential for allergenicity. was banned in the US due to early studies that suggested the sweetener may cause cancer. A follow-up study refuted the initial OTHER USES study and in 1995, the FDA in the US allowed stevia to be Stevia extract has exhibited strong bactericidal activity against a imported and sold as a food supplement, but not as a sweetener. wide range of pathogenic bacteria, including certain Escherichia Several companies argued to the FDA that stevia should be coli strains. Steviol was observed to be mutagenic toward categorised similarly to its artificial-sweetener cousins as Salmonella and other bacterial strains under various conditions “Generally Recognised as Safe� (GRAS). Substances that are and towards certain cell lines. considered GRAS have been determined to be safe through expert Stevia may also be effective against Candida albicans and has consensus, scientific review or widespread use without negative shown some anti-rotavirus activity. Stevioside has shown complications. They are exempt from the rigorous approval promising immunomodulating effects in rats and cell lines. In process required for food additives. If designated as GRAS, stevia addition, stevia may have antiproliferative, antimutagenic and could be used as a sweetener in a wide variety of food products antioxidant properties. One report also addresses stevia's role in and beverages. reducing dental plaque.

STEVIA'S ROCKY HISTORY

In December 2008 the FDA accepted this argument, declared stevia GRAS, and allowed its use in mainstream US food production. It has taken food manufacturers a couple of years to work out the right formulations, but stevia is now present in a number of foods and beverages, including wines, yoghurts, candies and other products in both the US and in Australia.

CONCLUSION

Independent scientific experts in both the US and globally have concluded that stevia sweeteners are safe for people of all ages and populations. No major contraindications, warnings, or adverse reactions have been documented. With the new manufacturing advances that have been able to remove or minimise the bitter aftertaste, it means that we will see its use Stevia powder can also be used for cooking and baking (in continue to grow as a favourite non-calorie sweetener. markedly decreased amounts compared to table sugar due to its high sweetness potency).

References

Goyal, S.K., Samsher and Goyal, R.K. (2010). Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana) a bio-sweetener: A review. International Journal of Regulatory health agencies around the world have approved highFood Sciences and Nutrition, 61, 1, 1-10. purity stevia leaf extract for safe use. This includes special Kobylewski, S. and Eckhert, C.D. (2008). Toxicology of populations such as pregnant and nursing women, children and rabaudioside A: A review . Retrieved July 20, 2011. people with allergies or diabetes.

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ingredientscience

WHY MARIGOLD is making such a comeback in

SKINCARE AND WELLBEING

By Tina Viney Bursting with a vivid orange colour Calendula officinalis – also known as Marigold – is a beautiful flower that is loaded with amazing healing properties. New research is now discovering further information on its undisputed therapeutic properties, so look out for Marigold (Calendula) in your formulations as you will start to see more of this amazing botanical in your skincare formulations.

The marigold is also known as Mary bud, pot marigold, ruddes, golds, holigold, gold bloom and the garden marigold. The therapeutic constituents of this plant are found in the petals and the flower heads.

Pot marigold or C. officinalis is the most commonly cultivated and used species, and is the source of the herbal oil. Calendula comes from the Latin word calendae, meaning "little calendar," because the flower blooms on the calends or the first of most months.3 It should not be confused with ornamental marigolds of 4 the Tagets genus, commonly grown in vegetable gardens.

CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS OF CALENDULA OIL In a study,8 calendula oil was obtained in low yield (0.3 percent) by steam distillation with cohobation from flowers and whole plants. Identified by the researchers were 66 therapeutic constituents, mainly sesquiterpene alcohols with α-cadinol being the highest therapeutic constituent – approximately 25 per cent.

The essential oil from the whole plant was found different from that of the flowers through the presence of monoterpenes hydrocarbons aside from the alcohols.

Marigold flourishes mainly in spring and it grows rapidly. There are different varieties of the plant and they are divided into four basic species. These include African Marigold, French Marigold, Triploids, and single Marigold. There are also sub-types with all The principal constitutes of calendula essential oil9 are of these major varieties. flavonoids, saponosene, triterpenic alcohol, and a bitter principle.

Marigold was highly prized in traditional cultures as a The useful components of calendula itself include a volatile oil, homeopathic remedy, however, today the essential oil extracted carotenoids, flavonoids, mucilage, resin, polysaccharides, 10 from the flower known as calendula oil is greatly valued for its aromatic plant acids, saponins, glycosides and sterols. medicinal properties.

NUTRITIONAL AND THERAPEUTIC PROPERTIES

SO WHAT IS CALENDULA OIL? Marigold is a genus of about 15 to 20 species of plants in the Asteraceae family.1 This flower is native to South-Western Asia, as well as Western Europe and the Mediterranean. The common name "marigold" refers to the Virgin Mary, to which it is associated in the 17th century.

Calendula, with fiery red and yellow petals, is full of flavonoids, which are found naturally in vegetables and fruits and are substances that give plants their lovely bright colours.5 Calendula oil is distilled from the flower tops and is quite sticky and viscous.

It has a very strange smell described as musky and woody – like the marigold flowers themselves. The key nutritional components of marigold are attributed to its rich source of flavonoids and vitamin C.

The ancient Egyptians valued and used the oil for its rejuvenating properties,2 while the Hindis used the flowers to adorn status in their temples, as well as to colour their food, fabrics, and Another interesting finding is that calendula is rich in lycopene.

Lycopene is a carotenoid and phytonutrient found in red fruits cosmetics.

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3. Practical uses – Marigold has been used as a dye. Dried petals can also be added in potpourris.

Calendula oil is traditionally used for abdominal cramps and constipation.11 However, studies confirm that it also has amazing benefits for the skin, including anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Here are some of the most common promoted benefits of this oil:12 Dry and chapped skin – Calendula oil is a great moisturiser for dry skin and for severely chapped or split skin. It soothes the area and reduces the pain.

Oily hair and skin – Another of the benefits of marigold flowers is its ability to restore oily skin to a more balanced state.

Calendula is also used for this purpose in and vegetables such as tomatoes. Lycopene have been proven to shampoos, particularly for oily hair. For both the skin and the be highly beneficial when applied topically, however, when taken hair, fresh flowers can be soaked in warm water and then applied internally, studies confirm that lycopene can substantially to the skin as a compress for at least 10 minutes. contribute to skin improvement.

Inflammation – It works well on swelling of sprained muscles, or In a study published in the European Journal of Pharmaceutics bruises; its anti-inflammatory action helps lessen swelling from and Biopharmaceutics, researchers gave 25 young adults a injury. Calendula oil also helps treat spider veins, varicose veins, lycopene-rich diet for four weeks followed by a 25 milligram leg ulcers and chilblains. lycopene supplement for another three months. A the end of the four-month period, they looked at the participants’ skin using Baby care – The oil helps relief diaper rashes, which can spectroscopy and found they had higher levels of carotenoids extremely irritate an infant. including lycopene and beta-carotene in their skin. Carotenoids are strong antioxidants that help to reduce inflammation, which Minor cuts and wounds – The antiseptic and antimicrobial may have a positive impact on skin ageing. A previous study action of the oil help speed up healing of wounds and minor cuts, published in the same journal found that higher skin lycopene and also benefit insect bites, acne and bed sores. levels were associated with smoother skin.

Skin disorders – Eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis and other skin The studies also confirmed that high levels of lycopenes helps to problems can be soothed using calendula oil, applied topically. reduce oxidative damage that occurs from daily exposure to the Calendula oil's antifungal action is also great for treating athlete's sun and other environmental pollutants. Lycopenes also help foot, ringworm and rashes. reduce skin roughness and also block ultraviolet rays to some degree – although not enough to make a sunscreen unnecessary. A Health benefits and therapeutic uses of marigold flowers, as well further study confirmed that lycopene present in marigold is also as the leaves of the marigold include it being beneficial in known to lower the risk of heart disease and prostate cancer. The minimising the number of tumours in the case of breast cancer, as antioxidants present in calendula where also shown to protect the well as in the prevention of the development of new cancer cells.

Besides breast cancer, marigolds are also known to be effective eyes from macular degeneration and cataracts. against colon, leukaemia and melanoma cancer cells. Calendula is used to aid the healing of wounds and internal and external USES AND BENEFITS OF CALENDULA OIL ulcers.

It is an antiseptic and improves blood flow to the affected Here are three classifications of calendula plant and oil uses: 1. Health and wellness – It has tonic, sudorific, area. Some clinical studies validate the early treatment of stomach emmenagogic and antispasmodic properties, but it is ulcers, although further research is needed (Chakurski 1981; mainly used for skincare and treatment.6 It has great Krivenko 1989). anti-inflammatory and vulnerary action, making it helpful with stubborn wounds, acne, ulcers, bed sores, Calendula's high-molecular weight polysaccharides stimulate varicose veins, rashes, eczema and related conditions.7 immune-system activity (Wagner 1985) and has been researched It addresses sore, inflamed, and itchy skin conditions. for immune system activity. It was initially determined to have Calendula massage oil also greatly heals, soothes, and some potential therapeutic activity against the human softens skin, making it a good addition to massage oils immunodeficiency virus (HIV): extracts significantly inhibited HIV-1 in vitro, and reduced HIV-1 reverse transcriptase in a doseor when preparing a carrier oil blend. and time-dependent manner (Kalvatchev 1997).

2. Cooking – Since the Middle Ages, the petals of marigold have been used as "the poor man's saffron" for In one small study of about 250 women undergoing radiation colouring cheeses, butters and dishes. During the therapy after surgery for breast cancer, a commercial calendula Elizabethan era, both petals and leaves were used in ointment reduced the amount of skin irritation better than another salads and to flavour soups and stews.

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SUPPORTING RESEARCH

commonly-used commercial preparation. Women who used the calendula ointment also reported less pain from the radiation.

Investigations into anti-cancer and anti-viral actions continue.

One of the medicinal uses of marigolds is that it promotes the growth of both new blood vessels as well as new skin tissue and hence it is used in the healing of wounds such as burns, scrapes as well as irritated skin.

When consumed internally, marigolds are also known to help against digestive inflammation in the form of duodenal or gastric ulcers on account of its anti-inflammatory properties.

Marigold tea is also known to be effective against painful mouth and stomach ulcers as well as colitis. Marigolds are effective in this aspect because they tend to stimulate the lymphatic system and thereby minimise the swelling as well as cleanse the body of toxins that may be contributing to the ulcers.

Marigold oil is also used to effectively treat scabies and warts.

PRECAUTIONS, SIDE-EFFECTS AND WARNINGS Calendula is generally considered safe to use on your skin. DO NOT apply it to an open wound without a doctor's consent. People who are allergic to plants in the daisy or aster family, including chrysanthemums and ragweed, may also have an allergic reaction to calendula (usually a skin rash).

Pregnant and breastfeeding women should not use calendula oil.

In theory, calendula could interfere with conception, and possibly cause miscarriage, so couples trying to get pregnant should not use calendula.

POSSIBLE INTERACTIONS There are no known scientific reports of interactions between calendula and conventional or herbal medications. In theory, taking calendula orally may interact with the following medications, so talk to your client's doctor before combining these drugs with calendula – Sedatives, medications to treat high blood pressure or medications to treat diabetes.

IN CONCLUSION Calendula is an ingredient that is starting to feature in scientific literature quite extensively. For this reason we will start to see its presence in several new skincare formulations as further research validates its benefits to the skin and body.

Akhtar N, Zaman SU, Khan BA, Amir MN, Ebrahimzadeh MA. Calendula extract: effects on mechanical parameters of human skin. Acta Pol Pharm. 2011;68(5):693-701.

Alnuqaydan AM, Lenehan CE, Hughes RR, Sanderson BJ. Extracts from Calendula officinalis offer in vitro protection agains H2O2 induced oxidative stress cell killing of human skin cells.

Phytother Res. 2015;29(1):120-4.

Barajas-Farias LM et al. A dual and opposite effect of Calendula officinalis flower extract: chemoprotector and promoter in rat hepatocarcinogenesis model. PLanta Med. 2006;72(3):217-21.

Basch E, Bent S, Foppa I, et al. Marigold (Calendula officinalis):An evidence-based systematic review by the Natural Standard Research Collaboration. J Herb Pharmacother. 2006;6(3-4):135-59.

Duran V, Matic M, Jovanovc M, et al. Results of the clinical examination of an ointment with marigold (Calendula officinalis) extract in the treatment of venous leg ulcers. Int J Tissue React.

2005;27(3):101-6.

Fronza M, Heinzmann B, Hamburger M, Laufer S, Merfort I. Determination of the wound healing effect of Calendula extracts using the scratch assay with 3T3 fibroblasts. J Ethnopharmacol.

2009 Dec 10;126(3):463-7.

Hematology/Oncology Clinics of North America. Dietary supplement use in cancer care: Help or harm.

Hematology/Oncology Clinics of North America. 2008;22(4).

Jimenez-Medina E, Garcia-Lora A, Paco L, Algarra I, Collado A, Garrido F. A new extract of the plant Calendula officinalis produces a dual in vitro effect: cytotoxic anti-tumour activity and lymphocyte activation. BMC Cancer. 2006;6:119.

Kassab S, Cummings M, Berkovitz S, van Haselen R, Fisher P. Homeopathic medicines for adverse effects of cancer treatments.

Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2009 Apr 15;(2):CD004845.

Review.

McQuestion M. Evidence-based skin care management in radiation therapy: clinical update. Semin Oncol Nurs.

2011;27(2):e1-17.

Panahi Y, Sharif MR, Sharif A, et al. A randomized comparative trial on the therapeutic efficacy of topical aloe vera and Calendula officinalis on diaper dermatitis in children. Scientific World Journal. 2012;2012:810234.

Pommier P, Gomez F, Sunyach MP, D'Hombres A, Carrie C, Montbarbon X. Phase III randomized trial of Calendula officinalis compared with trolamine for the prevention of acute dermatitis during irradiation for breast cancer. J Clin Oncol. 2004 Apr 15;22(8):1447-53.

Saini P, Al-Shibani N, Sun J, et al. Effects of Calendula officinalis on human gingival fibroblasts. Homeopathy. 2012;101(2):92-8.

Sarrell EM, Cohen HA, Kahan E. Naturopathic treatment for ear pain in children. Pediatrics. 2003 May;111(5 Pt 1):e574-9.

Sarrell EM, Mandelberg A, Cohen HA. Efficacy of naturopathic extracts in the management of ear pain associated with acute otitis media. Arch Pediatr Adolesc Med. 2001;155(7):796-799.

Sharp L, Finnila K, Hohansson H, Abrahamsson M, Hatschek T, Bergenmar M. No differences between Calendula cream and aqueous cream in the prevention of acute radiation skin reactions-results from a randomised blinded trial. Eur J Oncol Nurs. 2013; 17(4):429-35.

Ullman D. The Consumer's Guide to Homeopathy. New York, NY: Penguin Putnam; 1995:254-255;334.

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APJ 119

skinscience

The AntiAgeing Effects of Probiotics for Skin Health

by Tina Viney I recently read a very interesting review on several studies on the effect of probiotics in skin health. The studies were conducted by Rutgers University, New Jersey Medical School, SUNY Downstate Medical Center, Department of Dermatology, Brookyn, NY and Icahn School of Medicine, Mt. Sinai Medical Center in New York and shed further light on how probiotics can directly benefit the skin. This is a very complex issue as there are over 400 strands of probiotics and each one offers different benefits. While in the past it was believed that probiotics need to be injected to benefit the skin and body, new studies reveal how they can also effect pH levels, minimise oxidative stress, attenuate photo-ageing and improve skin-barrier function and enhance hair quality.

INTRODUCTION With the expanding ageing population and society's focus on youthful appearance, the market for anti-ageing skincare products continues to grow. While there are currently numerous over-the-counter aesthetic anti-ageing therapies on the shelves, research into the development of novel agents that are both safe and effective continues. In particular, topical cosmeceuticals and ingestible nutraceuticals labelled "natural" are becoming increasingly popular. 1 Probiotics have been defined as "live microorganisms, which when administered in adequate amounts confer a health benefit on the host". They have received attention as of late for their ability to positively impact digestive health as well as regulate the immune system. However, only in recent years has their potential to play a role in ageing, beauty, photo-damage and skin health has been revealed. 2,3 The most frequently used oral probiotics are enterococci, lactobacilli, and bifidobacteria, which are also natural inhabitants of the gastrointestinal tract, but encouraging results have been reported with other strains, especially as they relate to the skin.4-6 The first report on probiotic use, by Elie Metchnikoff in the early 1900s, described the possibility of improving health and delaying senility by modifying the intestinal microbiome.7,8 Many studies have emerged since then supporting the efficacy of probiotics in the management of numerous diseases, ranging from gastrointestinal to inflammatory and autoimmune.

As reviewed by Varankovich et al., probiotics can decrease harmful gut microbiota, including H. pylori, which is implicated as the

causative factor in most cases of gastritis.9 Probiotics also aid in the management of gastroenteritis, irritable bowel syndrome, inflammatory bowel disease and necrotising enterocolitis in newborns. They can also be used proactively to restore the balance of microbiota following antibiotic treatment, and have been shown to be helpful in the prevention and treatment of pseudomembranous colitis. Bubnov et al. discuss the supporting evidence for use of probiotics in atopic, metabolic and inflammatory conditions.10 Currently, probiotics can be present in yogurt, kefir, miso paste and fermented beverages. They have recently been added as supplements to children's popsicles, prenatal vitamins and facial creams, among other products.

However, the studies examine the role of probiotics in countering physiologic and pathologic effects related to ageing.

SKIN-AGEING PROCESS: PHYSIOLOGIC CHANGES AND PATHOLOGIC CHANGES It is an established fact that intrinsic and extrinsic factors contribute to ageing skin. Intrinsic or physiologic ageing is due to genetic and hormonal effects, microflora changes, skin pH increase, reduced stratum corneum lipid content, decreased absolution of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and greater metalloproteinase activity.11 Some clinical features of intrinsic ageing are laxity, fine wrinkles and atrophy of the skin.12 Extrinsic ageing is precipitated by environmental stress in the form of UV radiation (UVR), trauma, pollution, infection and tobacco use.

Probiotics have been shown to counter mechanisms of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing by restoring acidic skin pH, alleviating oxidative stress, attenuating photo-ageing, improving skin barrier function and enhancing hair quality.

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RESTORING ACIDIC PH OF THE SKIN The pH of healthy skin is in the range of 4.2-5.6, which is optimal for antimicrobial function, controlling proteinase activity and retaining moisture.16 After the age of 60 the skin's pH becomes less acidic, and damaging protease activity is increased, allowing enzymes to degrade key molecules that help the skin to function and appear healthy. Many probiotic strains are known to produce acidic molecules as part of their normal metabolic processes. Studies now

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confirm that if applied topically these probiotics could potentially restore the healthy acidic range of youthful skin through their production and secretion of acidic molecules such as free fatty acids, conjugated linoleic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid and even hyaluronic acid.11,17-20 One example of a class of enzymes that gets turned on as we age and our skin's pH rises is the serine proteases. Studies showed that the activation of serine proteases secondary to superbase application is reversible with re-acidification using an acidic buffer.21 This finding confirms that serine protease catalytic activity is influenced by variations in pH and theoretically could be curtailed if certain probiotics and their acidic metabolites were leveraged to successfully restore normal acidic skin pH.

COUNTERING OXIDATIVE STRESS Another physiologic effect associated with ageing is weakening of the intrinsic antioxidant defence system. The mechanisms for neutralising reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated from environmental assaults (UV rays, cigarette smoke, pollution), and even cellular metabolism, become less efficacious. As a result, these ROS were shown to inflict damage on DNA, proteins and cellular lipids, contributing to impairment of the structure and function of our skin. Probiotics have been shown to bolster the antioxidant defence system and aid in neutralising these destructive ROS. Probiotics when taken internally interact with gut-associated lymphoid tissue to ultimately influence the transcription profile and cellular differentiation of the innate and adaptive immune systems, including the release of cytokines in the skin.22-24 The gut-brainskin axis highlights the connection between health of the gastrointestinal tract and that of the skin through immunologic, metabolic and neuroendocrine pathways.25-27 It has previously been suggested that probiotics modulate the development of the immune system through their anti-inflammatory properties and immunoregulatory effects, which consequently dampens chronic inflammatory responses.28 In particular, probiotics have been shown to induce systemic antiinflammatory cytokines IL-10 and TGF-beta, stimulate T-regulatory cell function, and promote mature phenotypes of antigen-presenting cells.29 Probiotics where also shown to inhibit neutrophilic inflammation, the generation of TNF and pro-inflammatory cytokines, and CD4+T cell proliferation.15-22,29,31 It is known that the level of cellular inflammation correlates with that of ROS and oxidative stress. Consequently, probiotics may decrease the production of spontaneous and stressinduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation, because of their anti-inflammatory properties, and in turn boost the structural integrity and strength of the skin barrier.

Furthermore, in molecular models, probiotic strains produced extracellular polysaccharides that were associated with antioxidant and ROS scavenging activity, and when supplemented with heterologous superoxide dismutase were shown to protect against peroxide free radicals.28,32-34.

ATTENUATING PHOTO-AGEING Oral consumption of probiotics were also shown to alleviate the effects of UV-induced photo-damage in randomised, double-blind controlled trials in humans. Ingestion of certain probiotic strains can reduce UV-induced trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and therefore promote skin hydration; attenuate UV-associated conformational changes in skin elasticity through inhibition of metalloproteinase expression in dermal tissue, and even stimulate pro-collagen production.35-37 In human dermal fibroblasts that were treated with lactic-acid bacteria and subjected to UVR, UVB-induced metalloproteinase expression was prevented and pro-collagen

production was increased. Probiotics may also decrease UV-induced hydrogen peroxide production, protein oxidation and cutaneous xanthine oxidase activity. Furthermore, probiotics were shown to decrease dermal inflammation and promote recovery of the immune system after UV exposure.6,36,38-40 The effects of these probiotics may ultimately be measured by a decrease in the laxity and fine wrinkling of the skin.

IMPROVEMENT IN SKIN-BARRIER FUNCTION AND HAIR QUALITY Oral probiotics have been shown to contribute to the stimulation of dermal thickening, follicular anagenesis, sebocytogenesis and exuberant hair growth in animal models.26,41 This was demonstrated in a study by Levkovich et al. that utilised mechanical (photography and photometry to measure reflected light) and sensory (providing panellists fixed illumination and a rating scale) testing methods for assessing fur lustre; tissue pH readings; and microscopy-assisted histomorphometry to measure dermal thickness and evaluate hairfollicle cycling.41 Interestingly compared to the male mice, female mice exhibited greater changes in skin pH and fur lustre after probiotic consumption.

This may be due to female sex steroid hormone activity and the difference in immunology of mucocutaneous surfaces.48 Probiotictreated female mice had greater serum estradiol levels than controls and it is known that in women acidic vaginal pH is associated with a greater presence of lactobacilli, serum estrogen levels and peak fertility.49 There are estrogen-dependent mechanisms involving proton secretion by V-H+-ATPase in the apical membrane of vaginalectocervical epithelial cells that may contribute to the degree of acidification of the vaginal lumen, as demonstrated in vitro and in vivo. Therefore, it is likely that an interplay exists between host physiologic changes such as those regulated by hormones and probiotic-induced signals.

Oral probiotics may enhance the ability of the skin to serve as a barrier and retain moisture. In a 24-week double-blind, randomised controlled study of healthy women volunteers, a mixture of borage oil, catechins, vitamin E and probiotics was administered. These women were found to have improved skin-barrier function as determined via measurements of transepidermal waterloss (TEWL) and changes in stratum corneum composition. Improvements in barrier function were found as early as six weeks after mixture ingestion, with a statistically significant reduction in TEWL ranging from 13.7%-17.5% during weeks 6-24 in comparison to the control group. The beneficial effects on skin-barrier function were found to be less prominent in overweight individuals and this was hypothesised to be due to a weaker and inflamed skin barrier with increased TEWL at baseline.52

CONCLUSION Both basic science and clinical research suggests that probiotics are a beneficial therapy for countering effects of intrinsic and extrinsic ageing. However, further study is needed to elucidate how they can best be utilised. Should a topical, oral or combination approach be recommended? Is it more effective to supply probiotics in a formulation with other ingredients that enhance skin-barrier function? Which strains are the most effective? How can the survival of these strains for therapeutic effect be ensured? What will be the protocol and dosage for application or administration?

References: As the references are too many to include in this article, please contact the editor if you wish to access these as well as the complete study.

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insurancematters

ASK THE INSURANCE GURU Insurance policy wordings can be very confusing. As an example, you can purchase a policy from QBE on-line, over the phone, or through a broker and you will get three different policy wordings. Just to add to the confusion there are a number of insurance policies written by different insurance companies, but owned by one of the big companies, however, each one has a different interpretation for 1. What is an off-the-shelf policy and if it offers me a better the cover. Why is this so?

As we live in an age of litigation the risk of something going wrong and your client or patient suing their practitioner is progressively becoming commonplace. In this issue of APJ Suzanne Sparrow-Crisp of The Sparrow Group answers two members' questions on the all-important topic of insurance.

The objective of this column is to educate our members on the various elements of insurance, and clarify important information that will help them make better decisions.

Additionally, the aim will be to educate you on the best protocols to minimise the risk of a claim against your business.

rate should I go for it?

An off-the-shelf policy is usually a number of treatments provided under one insurance cover and includes public liability (cover for trips and falls). In our industry it is usually called Hair and Beauty/Beauticians Policy – that in itself should give you a good indication that it may not be the right policy that meets your needs.

If you are considering this type of policy, I would encourage you to carefully look at what is stated on the quote because that is exactly what you will be covered for. Consider the exact treatments you need cover for and make sure these are included in writing on your policy. Please note that as a rule these policies can be very general and may leave you exposed to risk. For example, a few years ago before most off-the-shelf-policies stopped covering for Cosmetic Tattooing – the off-the-shelf policies only covered basic procedures. They did not cover full lips, or nipple areola procedures etc. There were many technicians who were providing a variety of cosmetic tattooing treatments, however, in the event of a claim they were only covered for basic procedures and not the rest of their procedures. You need to understand that most of the off-the-shelf policies have limited cover.

Let me try and explain it to you in terms of skincare. If I am looking for the best possible results to improve my skin, would I get better value by going to a skilled and qualified professional who has the tools to analyse my skin, tailor products and a program that will specifically address my needs, or would I get better results going to Target and buying an off-the-shelf product?

If I went to a department store and spoke to a cosmetic consultant, would I have access to the same knowledge and expertise as I would by a trained professional aesthetic therapist? It is the same thing with insurance. You and your business require the best policy that has been tailor-made for you and your business needs.

Accessing the right cover is an important task. Make sure that the company has an understanding of your needs and is catering for your specific requirements. Here are some questions to consider when choosing your insurance broker:

! ! !

Does the broker have an understanding of your specific industry?

How many clients do they have in your specific industry and do they know what type of insurance you require?

How many claims have they dealt with in your industry?

Another issue with an off-the-shelf policy is that there is no flexibility, meaning they usually do not allow any changes in the wording to include cover for a treatment that you may be performing. Also, the off-the-shelf policy doesn't include medical malpractice or professional indemnity. As a professional, this will have a major effect on your business.

These questions will allow you to gain some insight as to whether they have the expertise to provide you with the correct policy wording that will best suit you and give you peace of mind.

Anyone can sell you an insurance policy, but for the purpose of your specific personal and professional needs, you should access a broker that can provide you with a customised policy that is Anyone can sell you an off-the-shelf policy; however, I would written exclusively and tailored to your needs. recommend you find a good broker who fully understands your industry and the nature of your procedures. At the end of the day a Suzanne Sparrow-Crisp is the Managing Director of The cheap-off- the shelf policy cannot be tailored to your needs and Sparrow Group – a Strategic Alliance Partner and APAN's could expose you and your clients to risk in the event of an preferred insurance broker. If you have a question that you incident and this may end up costing you a great deal more.

2. As an expert in insurance how can the wording of one policy over another, offer a different interpretation of what I may, or may not be covered for? Can you please give me an example of what I need to look for as I don't really understand this? I thought the reason to get insurance was to protect my interest?

would like Suzanne to answer please send it to info@apanetwork.com and mark it INSURANCE. We will select the question that is most in demand and forward it to Suzanne to address your concerns. You can also contact APAN and find out how your membership can secure you excellent insurance cover and rates. Phone: 07 5593 0360.

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APJ 122

When you want the perfect fit you need an

INDUSTRY SPECIALIST INSURER Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...

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APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE PROGRAM 2016

Sunday 23 October

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CROWN PERTH Burswood

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CTITIO NE PRA RS

PERTH CONFERENCE

AESTHETIC

Raising Professional Standards and Recognition

VISORY NE

Leaving the best to last REGISTER TODAY In 2016 APAN unveiled the new construct that will elevate the Status of the AESTHETIC PRACTITIONER The Launch of the new Accreditation Program

CLEARER SHARPER AUTHORITATIVE !

! ! ! !

Redefining Industry Standards and the new breed AESTHETICS PRACTITIONER Establish a clearer definition of the Skin and Age Management Sector Clearer identification of the advanced practitioner to government bodies Elevate consumer recognition and respect of registered practitioners Sharper marketing strategies for business growth

GREAT NETWORKING | EDUCATION | LEADING INDUSTRY STRATEGIES | REGULATION UPDATES | CONSUMER TRENDS

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www.apanetwork.com | info@apanetwork.com | 07 5593 0360

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