APJ Vol 33 2017

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Winter Volume 33. 2017

Winter Issue Volume 33.

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Advanced Multi-Functional Technology

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Advanced Aesthetic Skin Group

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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9 52-53 64-65

Heart-2-Heart Product Innovations Aesthetics and Massage Therapy Professionals – Establishing a new collaboration 68-70 Unique Laser – reaching a new level of success 84-85 Dealing with bad attitude in the workplace 86-90 Aesthetic Industry Bulletin 92-95 Adelaide APAN Aesthetics Conference Wrap-up 102-104 Laser Skin and Wellness – offering a modern approach for sustainability and growth 118-112 Scientific News REGULATIONS, EDUCATION & TRAINING 16-17

Cover Story: New Multi-Functional Platform for superior treatment results and the Power of Synergy 12 Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) 26-27 Cosmetic Tattooing/Microblading Regulatory Update 76-78 Eyebrow Perfecting Masterclass 83 Master your skills in Cosmetic Injectables 96 APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner (ARAP) 106-108 Advancing an Artform, while maintaining industry integrity

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 28-29 32-35

Advanced Course: Safe use of Topical Anaesthetics The role of the Acid Mantle and the Natural Moisturising Factor in Product Permeability 54-56 Understanding what causes Hyper-Keratinisation 60-63 Ceramides and Skin Barrier Homeostasis 74-75 Understanding appearance enhancement through injectables 100-101 Palmarosa Essential Oil for enhancing skin benefits and elevating mood 110-111 The amazing benefits Guava for skin and health 112-113 New research confirm why natural sounds help you relax BUSINESS AND PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 14-19 36-37 38-41 42

Tips for Better Business How to become a great team leader Theft in the Workplace Digital Marketing and why it's important for your business 114-116 Why Health and Wellness programs are a smart business practice

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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 22-24 44-46 66-67 117

APAN Aesthetics Conference – Brisbane APAN Aesthetics Conference – Melbourne 13th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference 2017 APAN Aesthetic Conference Program 2017

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APJ REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS TERRY EVERITT Terry Everitt is regarded as a 'Master Skincare Professional' due to his extensive knowledge of the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthetic and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date information from an evidence-based scientific perspective. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To contact Terry you can email him aestheticeductors@gmail.com.

CAROLINE NELSON Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years industry experience. She specialises and is passionate in helping clinics and spas develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 041 0600 440.

GAY WARDLE Gay Wardle is a well-known multi-awarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science. If you would like you and your staff to undertake training with Gay please contact her on 0418 708 455 or book on-line www.gaywardle.com.au. You can also email her on gay@m-da.com.au

SUZANNE SPARROW-CRISP Suzanne Sparrow-Crisp is the Director of The Sparrow Group, specialists in tailor-made insurance for salons and clinics. They provide excellent cover and peace of mind to businesses and beyond. Sue is passionate about education and is committed to helping simplify the often complex subject of insurance through regular articles and lectures. You can contact Sue on 07 5502 8326 or Email: sue@thesparrowgroup.com.au

DR ZAC TURNER Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background specialising in regenerative, aesthetic and cosmetic medicine. Aesthetically, Dr Zac feels that a natural look is best, and truly believes that his â&#x20AC;&#x153;less-is-moreâ&#x20AC;? approach using perfectly placed products gives the optimum outcomes. Over the past few years Dr Zac has become involved in both the men's health and preventative health space. He is passionate about this as he sees prevention and body optimisation as the ultimate way to prevent chronic disease, obesity, and many other conditions. He has owned and currently involved with clinics in the holistic health arena and believes that through a holistic assessment of someone's health we can enable them to live longer, healthier, and happier. You can contact Dr Zac by Email: zac@drzac.co 100

TRISH HAMMOND Trish Hammond is an award-winning Blogger and Social Media expert and the Director of Plastic Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful writing and interviews in all facets of the Social Media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthetics, Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and patients. If you would like to speak to Trish about her services please contact her on 0429 264 811 or Email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au.

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EDITOR’SNOTE “The Art of Teaching is the Art of Assisting Discovery” Mark Van Doren I AM a bit of an academic 'nerd'– I love information, I have a thirst for knowledge and if you talk to anyone, they'll always tell you I ask a lot of 'what, and how questions'. I'm a 'context' type of gal – why, because without it, what's the purpose, or where's the rationale? I love to be able to link whatever I'm learning, or reading in the theoretical sense. Information needs to have context in order to be meaningful, because without meaning where is the value? So whenever I read the quote above, I tend to pause and really think what it actually means. I'm sure, based on experiences and interpretations, it will mean different things to different people – but for me it resonates on a number of levels and consequently changes the way I do things and why. Which brings me to my current appointment to Editor of APJ – and what an honour it is! As a journalist, I feel so privileged to be in a position where I can transfer knowledge, translate information and provide real context behind whatever I publish in both print and media and the best part is connecting with people and sharing their stories – I feel this is so powerful and so fulfilling and if I can ensure the APJ continues to add value to you all, then as per my predecessor (who's massive shoes I am stepping into) I'll be doing something right. As we know, life changes are rapid, constant and inevitably variable, but at the same time things can be exciting and that's certainly the case for the APJ editorial team who tirelessly work year-round to bring you the very best content and now it's the journal's turn for a makeover. Over the next few months we will be working with a number of designers to develop and implement a fresh new look for the journal, one that is elegant, eye-catching and easy to navigate and we will be unveiling it in our upcoming spring edition. Another significant and exciting addition to be rolled out is our member contribution section – this will open up your ability to really interact with APJ on a number of different levels, including the ability to showcase your knowledge and expertise as practitioners and industry experts through article submission, as well as on-going opportunities to educate others through the provision of best practice tips and tricks, Q&A panels and much more! So without further ado, welcome to another fantastic APJ winter edition. Packed with great educational articles on business, scientific news and of course, regulatory matters. Check out our first conference for the year in Adelaide and our Cosmetic Tattoo Eyebrow masterclass. What a success both these events were. I do hope you will prioritise to attend our next conference event in Brisbane to be held at the wonderful Stamford Grand, we have an amazing program line-up for you. Our workshop this time will be Part 2: Safe use of Topical Anaesthetic for Cosmetic Purposes. I do hope we can catch up soon and will see you there. Enjoy this issue of APJ. 100

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APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

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Editor Katherine McCann Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

Welcome to APJ

Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Shop7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-9812 Print Post Approved [100000257]

Circulation 6900

FRONT COVER ADVANCED AESTHETIC SKIN GROUP Ph: 1300 581 500 Email: info@aaskingroup.com For further information see pages 10 and 11 The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements. All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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Heart-to-Heart A message from the President and CEO WE are delighted to welcome our new editor Katherine McCann, who will be sharing some of my responsibilities as of this issue of APJ Journal. Katherine is not only a therapist and cosmetic tattooists, but also holds degree qualifications in journalism and human resources and her contribution to the content and tone of the journal will be invaluable. We are thrilled to have her join our team. This year was off to a great start with our first APAN Aesthetics conference in Adelaide. The event was enthusiastically supported and both delegates and exhibitors had a great time of networking and learning. Following the conference program our Post-graduate Eyebrow Master Class training conducted by the incredibly talented Tarnya Makarenko was also a great success. Cosmetic tattooists travelled Australia-wide to learn Tarnya's amazing techniques. The day was greatly enjoyed as committed practitioners perfected their skills with new skills. APAN is committed to staging quality events that allow like-minded professionals to interact, learn, engage and grow their skills and knowledge in dynamic educational environments. The point of difference of the APAN conference programs is our focus. We present credible, generic information that will bring you up-to-date in five specific areas: ! Scientific advances ! Business ! Emerging trends ! Technology ! Regulatory developments These are all important key areas to empower you to make informed decisions for your current and future plans that will best support the on-going growth and development of your practice and business. You can no longer stay static with yesterday's knowledge. While you are working diligently as a practitioner, our industry is constantly evolving and rapidly changing. New advances are emerging and shaping the industry's future identity. Consumer expectations are also constantly changing and unless you know and understand these changes you will find your clients and potential new clients, gravitate to those who are advancing with the times.

TIPPING THE SCALES Educational standards are now also being reviewed and advancing to incorporate the new disciplines within updated qualifications. On May 22, I attended a meeting in Sydney with SkillsIQ as we reviewed together with the curriculum advisory committee, proposed changes to the Graduate Certificate in IPL and Laser for Hair Reduction. We have being working on this review for several months now to incorporate recommendations and revised changed that will allow the qualification to provide more comprehensive learning objectives, in line with advances and for improving skills. We now have three Degree qualifications in clinical aesthetics and dermal therapies in Australia, as well as two new Advanced Diplomas through higher education (tertiary level learning), not to mention several Diplomas and Advanced Diplomas in dermal sciences from the VET sector. All these initiatives aim to equip the new breed of practitioners with higher skills and knowledge to meet with the new level of clinical outcome that consumers seek. In 2016 I was also involved in the curriculum advisory committee for the development of an Advanced Diploma and the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) with Torrens University Australia and Laureate International Universities. These qualifications will attract students with a strong academic aptitude who wish to enter our industry, as well as existing practitioners who wish to upgrade their qualifications to a more scientific level. I strongly believe the constant expanding opportunities for higher qualifications will tip the scales and progressively alter the landscape of the industry, which will gain a stronger focus on skin and age management. Contributing to this shift is the Government's cuts on VET FEE help for funding for those who wish to study beauty at the lower levels.

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ON THE REGULATION FRONT We understand the urgency of establishing regulations for the various modalities and at this stage there are two hot topics â&#x20AC;&#x201C; IPL/Laser Regulations and Cosmetic Tattooing with the need for Microblading to be identified with a cosmetic tattoo qualification. With regards to COSMETIC TATTOOING, as we have stated in the microblading article on page 28-29 microblading cannot be included

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AS WE ENDEAVOUR TO END THE WRONGS, WE MUST NOT FORGET TO DO Nikos Kazantzakis | www.geckoandfly.com

WHAT'S RIGHT. in the current cosmetic tattoo unit of competency until the training package is up for review. Meanwhile, we have drafted an interim unit that we are also discussing with the Association of Cosmetic Tattooing to come to a common consensus on its content. The objective is to educate the consumers what to look for in a practitioners who is proposing to perform a microbrading procedure. We have sent a survey to the industry with three options for you to give us your feedback. At the time of writing 98% of the responses was in favour of establishing an interim study document. We will keep you posted on developments.

IPL/LASER FOR COSMETIC AND BEAUTY THERAPY PURPOSES REGULATIONS PROCESS: There appears to be some confusion as to what has happened with the regulations process for IPL and Laser so we want to assure everyone that nothing is concrete or finalised at this stage. Below is a link of the ARPANSA Technical Report 177 with the Analysis of the REGULATORY IMPACT STATEMENT Submission, which everyone had an opportunity to comment on when it was released 18 months ago. You can download the report at http://www.arpansa.gov.au/pubs/technicalreports/tr177.pdf At this stage we would like to point out that the ARPANSA Working Group appointed to work on reviewing the need for regulations and that worked on this project for the past five years was not the Working Group that put forward the recommendations in this report. I am assured the recommendations in the above document are not final and that some level of regulation will still eventuate. For those who have secured qualification and licenses in IPL and Laser to ready themselves for regulations, congratulations. You have secured your future by choosing adhering to best practice. Please also note that with these qualifications you will now qualify to be on the APAN National Register as an ARAP certified practitioner.

ARAP (APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner) is an APAN standards classification that is protected through a trademark and aims to profile the best qualified practitioners in our industry to the public. This registration will also allow our industry to move forward with greater confidence through current and future regulation processes. There are several categories also for clinicians as well as educators.

Tony Kirwan

For further information visit http://apanetwork.com/arap/ If you are finding yourself still sitting on the fence not knowing what to do in preparing for regulations there are several options that you can take. Please phone and speak to a me directly. I can review your current status and guide you with options for your future. There are many who are panicking because they feel they may have to do a full qualification from scratch. This may not be the case. Call us and identify your options for peace of mind. By doing the right thing now you will secure your future. We may also be able to assist you through government funding when the opportunity arises.

NEW PROFESSIONAL ALLIANCE With the growing trends in wellness we have been approached by remedial massage professionals to establish an alliance with our industry. This is an exciting new initiative that will help you add an additional treatment of value to your business through the introduction of remedial massage. For full details please see full article on pages 64-65 by Greg Morling. APAN is an independent industry body with a strong focus on standards, regulations and servicing the needs of the industry. Our programs are designed to support you to achieve a strong, credible reputation for best practice. Our business is to see you succeed both as a practitioner and a business. APAN member benefits are extensive and comprehensive. They include Wage Awards support and a complete list of resource documents from HR Agreements to numerous other documents. These will allow you to streamline your business operations and staff compliance needs effectively without stress. Visit www.apanetwork.com and download a membership form today. If you require further information phone 07 55930360. We are here to help you.

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coverstory

NEW Multi-functional Platform for superior treatment results and the POWER OF SYNERGY WE ARE all familiar with the term SYNERGY, defined at the interaction of elements that when combined, produce a total effect that is greater than the sum of the individual elements. In other words when the right synergy is achieved with various elements coming together they create a multiplication effect rather than just an addition. These principles are often identified in medicine â&#x20AC;&#x201C; particularly in natural medicine when various compounds are combined to create a powerful synergy to deliver therapeutic benefits. When it comes to aesthetic equipment, each technology has certain functions, however, when they are combined in appropriate sequence the end result can be substantially accelerated and even multiplied. I-CARE is a smart, aesthetic device with multiple features and treatment modalities available in the one piece of equipment. It enables differentiated treatment of uses by combining a variety of programs that can be delivered sequentially to achieve superior treatment outcomes. I-CARE is a new-generation device that combines several advanced technologies in one compact device.

Just look at the amazing applications:

! Skin peeling ! Collagen remodelling ! Skin lifting and tightening ! Lymphatic drainage ! Enhanced blood circulation ! Enhanced product penetration ! Post care after MTS or Laser treatments FUNCTIONS INCLUDE: Diamond peeling + vacuum Preparing the skin by eliminating dead cells in preparation for enhanced treatment results.

Effect: Diamond peeling with vacuum handle can be used to remove dead skin cells and eliminate them efficiently and without skin damage.

Bi-polar RF Radio Frequency treatments will help to lift, firm and tighten skin by aiding the skin's own ability to produce collagen and elastin. Skin concerns including fine lines and wrinkles, sagging skin and acne scarring are targeted. Post-treatment the skin will continue to improve thanks to increased collagen and elastin production.

Effect: Bi-Polar Radio Frequency electrode deliver thermal energy to induce collagen regeneration and lifting.

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LED LED, or light emitted diode therapy can substantially accelerate treatment results by working on a cellular level to stimulate, repair and heal, depending on the type of LED light used. Blue light therapy emits antibacterial properties and is used for treating acne. Studies show that this light can improve your acne by 70% by killing acne bacteria. Red light is beneficial for sagging skin and pigmentation and also soothes sun-damaged skin and acne.

Effects: Red: 630nm with skin rejuvenation and cell activation effect Blue: 415nm with strerilisation effect for skin lesions.

Multi-Polar RF + Vacuum A special program featuring a combination of technologies.

Effect: Multi-polar RF, Vacuum and LED maximise the effect of skin rejuvenation due to the simultaneous action. The simultaneous action of these combined technologies can accelerate results, quickly and efficaciously.

Cryo-electroporation Electroporation is a microbiology technique used in dermatology where an electrical field is applied to cells in order to increase the permeability of the cell membrane. When used in aesthetics, active ingredients can be targeted to reach the deeper layers of the skin and thus enhance treatment results.

Effect: Cryo-electroporation handpiece enables the penetration rate of any kind of solution and can reduce the downtime and PIH risk.

I-CARE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; PROVIDING THE PERFECT SOLUTION FOR ADVANCED SKINCARE RESULTS This new-generation device is compact with dimensions of just 306 x 208 x 100mm and can fit in even a small-sized treatment room, yet still allows the therapist to deliver a variety of treatment modalities to achieve superior results. Furthermore I-CARE with its cuttingedge engineering is very affordable for any business â&#x20AC;&#x201C; large or small, allowing aesthetic practitioners to treat a variety of skin conditions and achieve leading treatment outcomes.

TRAINING AND SUPPORT I-CARE is distributed by the Advanced Aesthetic Skin Group who will provide you with comprehensive training and support. They also offer coaching to help salons and clinics identify winning strategies in order to grow their business.

For further information on the I-CARE multi-functional equipment platform please Nila Lauw 1300 581 500 at ADVANCED AESTHETIC SKIN GROUP

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Are you a Cosmetic Tattooist who is committed to high COSMETIC TATTOO standards of education APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) excellence and best practice?

APANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) registration is revolutionising the recognition and integrity of Cosmetic Tattooists nation-wide. CTARP registration was established due to serious Industry concern being raised over the deterioration of Cosmetic Tattoo practice and training standards and this registration is paving the way for identification of professional best practice in line with current Australian Standards.

To join CTARP the following prerequisite will be required:

! Must be a current financial member of APAN ! Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing

Registration renewal requirements:

! Maintain currency of APAN Membership ! Evidence of participation in post-graduate training within the previous 24 months ! Evidence of attending at least one APAN conference per year.

Cost of CTARP Registration:

! CTARP Registration $110

If you require further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com

The online application to join CTARP is found at www.apanetwork.com

Registration requirements: Adhere to the APAN CODE OF ETHICS (Cosmetic Tattooing) and the relevant Australian Regulations as set out by State and Federal jurisdictions. Adhere to the CTARP Code of Conduct.

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Registration Benefits:

! Special Membership Certificate ! Special Membership Card ! Industry Code of Ethics (Cosmetic Tattooing) ! CTARP Code of Conduct ! Transparent CTARP logo for business window or door ! Included on APAN Website as preferred practitioners ! Other benefits from time-to-time

So if you are a Cosmetic Tattooist and are committed to high standards of educational excellence and best practice, consider joining APAN and become a member of CTARP and be recognised among Australia's leading Cosmetic Tattoo Practitioners.

APAN.page | @apanetwork 0

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Tips for Better BUSINESS Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

WHAT IS THE UNFAIR CONTRACT LAW?

SAFEGUARD YOUR BUSINESS FROM UNFAIR CONTRACTS

Under the law, small businesses are able to have an unfair term in a contract declared void by a court if at the time of agreeing to a standard form contract: ! you had less than 20 employees ! the contract wasn't for more than $300,000 (or $1 million for contracts longer than 12 months).

CONTRACTS are part of any business landscape, whether it is a landlord contract for your premises, or establishing a contract with another business for the provision of services. Before signing a contract it is important to understand there are laws in operation to protect small business. The Australian Consumer and Competition Commission's (ACCC) consumer laws is one source of information that you should examine. These laws aim to ensure that all small businesses are protected under the Unfair Contract Law. This issue is a priority for the ACCC in 2017. ACCC has announced increased scrutiny on unfair contracts and is investigating a range of industries since the introduction of the new business-to-business (B2B) unfair contract terms laws in November 2016.

21 TIPS FROM SMALL BUSINESSES THAT ARE KILLING IT RUNNING a small business is a dream for many Australians, but it can be daunting. Here, entrepreneurs who are killing it in a range of industries share their best piece of advice for making your business a success. 1. Deliver a consistent customer experience Damian Cerini, owner of cycling tour business Tour de Vines, says you need your business to almost run itself before you look at growth. “The thing about working for an employer is that the business model is already set, it's about the execution of the idea, whereas a new business is about testing the idea first and developing the systems.”

WHAT IS AN UNFAIR CONTRACT TERM? Unfair terms are terms that let one party but not the other: ! avoid or limit their obligations under the contract ! terminate the contract ! vary the terms of the contract ! be penalised for breaching or terminating the contract. APAN recommend that all businesses review information from the ACCC website around the Laws on unfair contract terms, as well as the information on Understanding Contracts. Ref: Business.gov

2. Add a personal touch Angus Askew, co-director of commercial asset financing company Magnolia Lane Financial Services, says: “In our industry like most service industries everyone is essentially selling the same thing, you've just got to do it better. Our number one goal when dealing with a new client is to establish a relationship and make them feel special. Make sure you are remembered. We make it our priority to see all of our customers face-to-face. Create a rapport as this is what will result in repeat business and an income stream for life.”

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3. Leverage social media A strong marketing strategy is essential in every industry, says Anthony Kittel, director of manufacturing firm REDARC. That means social networking — on LinkedIn, Twitter, Instagram, Facebook or all of the above. “Our brand is everything, so whatever we can do to promote that brand and consumer awareness is critical.” 4. Write your own business bible Matthew White, whose firm Ergoflex sells memory foam mattresses, says the volume of information available can be overwhelming. He recommends writing ideas and tips in a notebook or tablet as they come up. “It has helped me make some major decisions, and also saved me hours of searching for something I've read somewhere.” 5. Focus on your specialty In the first few years, there can be a lot of pressure to diversify your offering, says Paris Cutler, director of cake decorating company Planet Cake. “Stick to what you do best and do it better and with more focus than anyone else.” 6. Outsource the things you don't do Resist the temptation to chase work outside your offering, and use a specialist to fill in any gaps, says Rhys Roberts from accountancy firm Viridity. “I outsource my HR, my IT, much of my marketing and more. The time you free up you can spend doing what you are good at.” 7. Aim high and be persistent Determination is one of the vital qualities needed when you start on the long road of setting up a small business. Rochelle Miller, cofounder of fashion retailer Another Love, says: “Believe in yourself and your strengths. Don't take 'no' for an answer. There will be bumps along the way, but everything has a solution or another option.” 8. Embrace a life that is less frantic Kelly Exeter, author and editor of small business community Flying Solo says it's all about finding the right balance for you. “I am learning that I don't just need physical space to thrive, I need mental space too.” 9. Follow your own path Designer and illustrator Beci Orpin says she's not naturally businessminded, but has always worked really hard and built up a strong folio of work. “My business is all about me: my style and what I create, so an important part of developing that was staying true to myself — not worrying about what other people were doing.”

feelings, sensations, breath and everything occurring in the present moment, without attaching judgment to those observations.” 13. Every setback is a stepping stone to success Lucinda Lions from branding agency Slogan Creator says it's important to stay positive wherever possible, and see feedback, not failure. “I remind myself tomorrow is a brand new day, a new opportunity to think differently and make better choices.” 14. Hire from within your networks When Sarah Wilson from I Quit Sugar began feeling overwhelmed with work, she decided to get an assistant. She put a call out to her community, knowing taking someone on would involve sacrifice. Five years later, they still have a successful working relationship. “Start out small and then leave the invitation open for expansion.” 15. Keep it manageable Kate James, start-up coach at Total Balance, says it's important to remember that it's not all about non-stop growth — bigger isn't better if you've stopped enjoying what you do. “You need to define your own version of success. Mine is that I need to love my business.” 16. Know when to work for free Vanessa Emilio from Legal123, says sometimes working for free is worth it. “'Free' doesn't mean offering an entire job or product for free. It could mean a free initial consultation, free component of a project or complimentary muffin with every coffee.” 17. Stay excited and believe in your business SEO copywriter and consultant Kate Toon says start-ups should think about clients' needs and possible issues and create rational responses to persuade them your business is the solution. “Inject warmth, professionalism and even humour, where appropriate. Being human beats boring every time.” 18. Learn to say no Recognise when a client has unrealistic expectations and nip it in the bud early, or consider referring them on, says author and media commentator Andrew Griffiths. Try a formal, structured response and keep returning to it. Try, “Thank you for the opportunity, but we are so heavily committed we can't give your project the time and attention it needs.”

19. Create fans If you're on a tight marketing budget, think about how you can trigger word-of-mouth interest. Warren Harmer of The Business Plan Company mentions a small florist that did this brilliantly by offering quality, providing value, inspiring team members to love their job and clients and creating a physical environment that excited 10. Take time out to think about how to improve Use your best hour in the day to consider ways of moving forward, their market. advises Andrew Griffiths, a small business author and consultant. He does this first thing every morning. Each Friday, “I find a quiet place 20. Turn competition into inspiration and ask myself a question: 'How is my business better this week than Life coach Kathryn Hocking suggests you research what competitors are doing to help identify what makes you unique. Your it was last week?'” relationship doesn't have to be adversarial: they could be a mentor, partner or friend. “Focus on your own purpose and connect with 11. Harness your 'keystone habits' Entrepreneur and blogger James Clear says we should find the one or peers that have similar values and who inspire you to greater levels of two habits or routines that make everything else fall into place. success.” “Improving your lifestyle and becoming the type of person who 'has 21. Know when to take a 'dream detour' their act together' isn't nearly as hard as you might think.” Sometimes it's hard to know whether to grab a fresh opportunity or stick to your path. Business mentor Lynda Bayada says you need to 12. Practise mindfulness Freelance journalist and Editor Jodie Macleod says that mindfulness outsmart your head so you can listen to your heart. “Give yourself increases productivity, reduces stress and improves memory and space and trust yourself. And you'll find that's half the battle won.” focus. “Mindfulness is when you are aware of your thoughts,

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STARTING OUT: HOW TO GET YOUR MESSAGE RIGHT "WHEN I first started out," says business coach April Smith, "it was all about the business card – if you had that, then you had a 'message', right? Wrong. If I had my time over again, here's what I'd do instead. When I first started my business I got a logo, business card and website sorted in short order and then left it at that. 12 months later I realised I was like the old analogy of the hairdresser with bad hair. I was coaching my clients on how to develop their message, their brand and business, but what I'd forgotten in the process was that I was MY brand. My own message deserved the same time, effort, strategy and polish that a customer's product did. So, if I had my time again, what process would I follow? The same five steps I walk my clients through these days: Step 1: Who cares? Also known as the 'Discovery Phase'. "The most successful brands are the ones that speak to their audience as if they are real people rather than just a sale waiting to happen. If I want to connect to someone, it's important that I have an understanding of who I am about to speak to and if they will actually care about what I have to say. So, determining my Target Market and Niche is a crucial step before attempting to craft my message. If you haven't done this before, I recommend that you assess the persona of your target or ideal clients. They could vary by age, personality, lifestyle, profession, location, income level, but are still within the target market for your brand. It also helps to give each person a name, so that you can really get to know them! Consider: ! Demographics, psychographics and geographical location ! Professional and personal background ! Shopping behaviour ! Favourite websites ! Favourite brands ! Blogs and publications they read ! Purchase motivators ! Needs and wants I like to write a paragraph or two about each persona, just as if I know them. I have even based this on a real person, someone who is perfect to profile. I am very visual, so using images works well for me to help illustrate a person's lifestyle and bring them to life. Step 2: Where do I stand? This is the deeper research phase, it's where I like to look at the current market and determine how my message might cut through the clutter and reach the target customers I have identified above. Ask the questions: ! What does my brand stand for? What are its ethics and core values? ! What does the market want and need? ! What do I have to say that is different to everyone else? ! Why would anyone care enough about my message, my product or service to consider becoming a customer?

By answering some of these questions it can help me raise any objections I might face from potential clients. For example, if I realise that perhaps I am not all that clear on what I stand for yet, or I haven't quite been able to articulate my point of difference, it makes sense for me to flesh this out a little further before moving forward. It also helps to run your answers by someone you trust to give you some constructive feedback. Step 3: Tone of Voice The most successful brands are the ones that speak to their audience as if they are real people rather than just a sale waiting to happen. Identifying your tone of voice and the personality of your brand is important. Imagine your brand having a conversation with your ideal customer. What would it say and how would you say it? Would it go something like, “If you are looking for quick results that you can fit into your business schedule, visit our salon, we care and understand and we can cater for your needs." Another tone could say, “We want you to totally relax so our treatments are never rushed. We make sure that you get the full benefit of treatment result and relaxation.” Consider what your 'voice characteristics' might be, such as: ! Passionate ! Quirky ! Cool ! Authentic ! Serious ! Compassionate ! Understanding ! Assertive ! Cheeky Once I have this framework in place so far – I have a good idea of my audience, I know what I stand for and I know how to engage them, I then like to practice my writing. I always find it's best to develop the heart of my message first and then, if I am struggling to achieve that polished piece, I would bring in a professional such as a copywriter or trusted brand or creative professional to help me take it to the next level.

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Step 4: Look and feel “A picture tells a thousand words.” Once I know what I stand for, who my customer is and how I want to speak to my customer, then it's so much easier to ensure I really nail the look and feel of my brand.

APJ 16

This is where the help of a graphic designer or brand strategist may be in order depending on how far you want to take it. I like to start with a logo concept and then build from there. Creating a clear brief on the look and feel you want to create for your brand that best tells your story is absolutely crucial when working with a creative resource. Consider: ! What aesthetics, fonts and styles resonate with you? ! What would capture the essence of your brand and best represent your message? ! What look and feel would engage your ideal consumer? TOP TIP: The clearer the brief, the more accurate the outcomes and better chance you have for your vision to come to life.

Step 5: Try it on for size Once you have a logo you LOVE, now it's time to consider how this creative would look across all brand touch points such as website, social media, print media, business cards, stationery and packaging. Does it represent your message well? I try to think about all the applications beyond this such as marketing, PR, online and print. don't forget your email sign off message! Remember that your message is not just about the WORDS, it's about the image, the ethics, the conversation, and every piece of content you put out to the industry that represents you. So, put your very best into crafting a compelling message that does you and your business proud. But do remember, this is a work in progress and as your business evolves, your message, look and feel will also evolve.

AUSTRALIA MAY BE CLOSER TO BEING A CASHLESS SOCIETY THE ABC has recently asked the question as to whether “Australia is on the brink of becoming a completely cashless society”. The question was sparked by the recent release of figures by the Reserve Bank of Australia (RBA) showing a continued decline in Australian's withdrawing cash from ATMs. ATM withdrawals are now at a 15 year low and have been declining between 6 to 7.7% for the past 3 years. The tipping point however, may be reached with the launch, later this year, of the New Payment Platform(NPP), an initiative of a consortium of companies, including the RBA. Applications built on top of the NPP will allow Australians to send money to any other person, or business and have that transfer happen in real time, including outside of banking hours. NPP will also support identifying the receiver by an email address, telephone number, or in the case of a business, by their business number or ABN. It is this functionality that has been pivotal in allowing Sweden, the world leader in the race for countries to become almost cashless. In 2015, cash transactions made up 2% of all value payments in Sweden and Swish, the most popular of the apps that allow the transfer of money in real time between Swedes, is used by over 50% of the population to make over 9 million payments a month.

on the earnings. For small businesses, the benefits are mostly in the time saved in not having to handle cash, deposit it at the bank and also in the security of not having cash on the premises. As part of a greater opposition to a cashless society are the concerns over privacy. If each transaction is electronic, it can theoretically be tracked, at least by the banks, and it is this tracking, and that data may be used for, that concerns some consumers. These concerns however should be handled by governments and banks agreeing a code of conduct, limiting what this data can be used for, in the same way that there are restrictions in some countries about the use of tracking on the Internet.

In answer to the original question posed by the ABC as to whether The same is likely to happen in Australia which is rapidly adapting to Australia could be cash free by 2020, the answer is that it is possible, the convenience and security of tap and pay and mobile payments like but extremely unlikely. In 2013, cash payments represented 47% of Apple Pay and Android Pay. all transactions in Australia, declining rapidly, but still a long way Another catalyst for the increased use of cards will be the reduction in from being zero. fees that banks are allowed to charge businesses for processing credit cards. This should put an end to businesses needing to add surcharges for customers using a credit card and get rid of the distinctly unfriendly $10 minimum spend. So from July 1st, a $4 cup of coffee will have a maximum fee of 3 cents.

Australian banks are still holding out on supporting some mobile payment systems like Apple Pay which will also delay the move to a cashless society. While, people may have stopped carrying around cash, there is a growing number of people not carrying cards and relying just on their phone for payments.

The advantages is of a cashless society are absolutely clear, so Australia's black economy, fuelled entirely by cash transactions and estimated at between 2 - 15% of the gross domestic product (GDP). The majority of this is what is called “underground production” or things like cash-in-hand jobs that are not reported and so no tax is paid

Finally, there are still a significant number of older people and those as mentioned earlier who will to continue using cash for privacy and other reasons and will continue to hold out. It is estimated that by 2020 this position will substantially change with the decline in the use of cash by consumers.

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APJ 17

WHAT'S THE IDEAL FREQUENCY FOR ACHIEVING YOUR BEST SALES TARGETS? BUSINESSES reward staff who meet their sales targets by compensating them in two forms - salary, and a bonus tied when achieving periodic targets. In this report we look at whether a more frequent quota incentivise can generate better numbers? Personal selling is a key ingredient in making businesses viable that create jobs and support the Australian economy. Sales compensation plans are at the centre of all this activity and the primary tools businesses to motivate and incentivise their staff. The traditional strategy usually includes some form of compensation: salary and a monthly bonus tied to meeting or exceeding a quota or target. This raises a key question for managers: What kind of quota is the most motivating? Could sales force performance be kick-started if that quota incentive was delivered more frequently?

an 18 percent increase in sales productivity under the daily quota. Chung explains that low performers are susceptible to falling behind in a monthly quota scheme, becoming less motivated or less capable of meeting their quota the further they fall back. “So they just give up,” he says.

The answer is contained in a new paper, The Effects of Quota Frequency on Sales Force Performance: Evidence from a Field Experiment, authored by Harvard Business School marketing professors Doug J. Chung and Das Narayandas. “With so many people and resources at stake, the design of the sales force compensation plan becomes of great strategic importance to businesses,” the authors write in the study.

Having a daily quota or target sales figure that needs to be reached, on the other hand, provides “a fresh start each day in which past performance does not affect current payoff and thus does not disturb current motivation,” the researchers write. “For highperforming salespeople, because they are more immune to the disutility of effort, even if they experienced bad luck earlier in the month, they would put in the additional effort necessary later in the month to meet their monthly quotas.”

It turns out if the goal is simply to increase the absolute number of sales, then a frequent quota is more effective, especially if you're looking to boost performance of least-effective employees. But if the goal is to sell the high-profit items, then it's better to stick with a long-term incentive, according to Chung and Narayandas. The paper follows a 2013 study in which Chung and colleagues developed a structural model to determine the ideal frequency of quotas. That study showed quarterly bonuses improved sales among weak performers in firms that historically had used annual quotas. “I saw this effect in the modelling world, but I wanted to test it in the real world,” says Chung, an Assistant Professor. “The best way to do that was to perform a field experiment.” The research team conducted a field experiment through a retailer that operated 94 stores. They tested daily quota structures in some stores, while testing the existent monthly quota in others. “We had to make sure the stores in the control group did not talk to the stores in the treatment group,” Chung says. Two, the chain sold products ranging in price from less than $1 to over $500, which let the team observe how the quotas might affect sales on both low and high-ticket items. The field experiment took place for 30 days in May, 2015, involving 337 employees. None were aware of the experiment. The researchers tracked the employees' sales performance before and after the experiment, noting how a quota change would affect the historical top salespeople as well as the historical worst performers. They found that sales productivity increased by 4.9 percent, on aggregate, under the daily quota scheme. But the results were more dramatic among the lowest quartile of salespeople—those with the worst recent sales records in the company. That group saw

An increase in the quantity of sales, but a decrease in the quality. While a daily quota spurred an increase in the raw number of products sold and dollars earned, the effect on the types of products sold was another story. In short, the quota change led all salespeople to focus on selling lots of low-ticket items. Under the daily quota, even the high performers were concentrating on such incremental sales, neglecting their focus on the high-ticket items that took longer to sell, which had traditionally helped them reach their quotas under the monthly plan. The natural result: a decrease in sales of higher-margin items. Ultimately, the research indicated that reaching a daily target figure outweighed the costs. At the end of the study, the retailer switched its quota plan from monthly to daily across the company and has maintained the strategy ever since. The broad lesson of the study: A company's quota structure should be tied directly to its sales strategy. “If you want to increase revenue, just purely increase revenue, especially on a short-term basis, then maybe it makes sense to go to a frequent quota,” Chung says. “But if you want the sales force to focus on larger, higher-profit sales, then giving them a less-frequent quota – consistent with the length of the sales process – would make sense. The important thing is to consider what kind of outcome you want.”

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It terms of the aesthetics industry this translates as follows: 75

If you set daily sales target figures for staff to achieve, this works really well for items such as product sales that are not high ticket item. However, if you wish your staff to sell higher ticket items such as treatment packages then a weekly or fortnightly target figure would be a better strategy.

APJ 18

FIVE TIPS ON HOW TO GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR WORKDAY GETTING a lot done each day is about more than just having the right productivity tools and setup. It's about taking care of your body and mind, and this starts even outside of the workplace. We all need strategies for increasing productivity; here are five to get you started. 1. Get a good night's rest The first key to productivity is plenty of sleep. Research confirms that getting 7-8 hours sleep a night will flow through into your work, from sharper decision making and problem solving, to better coping with change. Studies also confirm that it's not just the quantity of sleep that matters, but also the quantity as well. You should try to stick to a regular sleep pattern. Going to bed late during the working week and hoping to catch up with a sleep-in on the weekends may make you feel more productive, but you are disrupting your sleep-wake rhythms. This makes it difficult to feel alert and ready for work on Monday.

A break could be mean completely stopping work and doing something fun. An office-worker might go for a run, for instance. Or it could just mean switching tasks and doing something different, such as moving from practitioner treatment to greeting people at reception. The researchers also found it matters when you take your break. You will be most productive after a break if you take it early in the work day rather than later, when you are already tired. But perhaps you should also carve out special times in the day Get into a good sleep routine by setting a regular bedtime. Then for physical movement. avoid caffeine, alcohol, nicotine, and other chemicals that interfere with sleep. Limit light exposure – including from TV, phone and Researchers in Sweden found that devoting some work time to computer screens - in the evening. Eat, drink and exercise enough, physical activity increases productivity. The research found that as but not too much and not too close to your bedtime. Make sure your little as two and a half hours of physical activity a week led to more bedroom is a calm place, and use it only for sleep and intimacy. work being done in the same amount of time, and reduced 2. Drink some coffee at work Coffee helps you feel alert because it blocks adenosine, the main compound in your brain that makes you sleepy. Studies also confirm that caffeine had a range of positive impacts beyond keeping you awake. Benefits ranged from increased alertness and reaction time, to improved learning, memory and even mood. The effects lasted from one to eight hours. Another study found that caffeine speeds up how quickly we process words.

absenteeism due to sickness. 4. Conquer procrastination Procrastinating not only reduces your immediate productivity by delaying work, but increases stress and lowers well-being. This can make your productivity even worse, later. There are a range of relatively simple interventions you can do, such as eliminating notifications on your devices, only working for 15 minutes to get a project started, or creating smaller goals.

But coffee isn't just effective on a chemical level. Researchers also found that scheduling coffee breaks so that the entire team took it at the same time increased productivity. When tested at a bank call centre, efficiency increased by 8% on average, and 20% for the worst performing teams. The benefit here came less from the caffeine and more from increasing the interactions between team members. But before you rush out to grab a coffee, remember that in these experiments “a good cup of coffee” means black coffee. Research shows the levels of the beneficial antioxidants in coffee were higher and lasted longer in black coffee drinkers than for people who added sugar or non-dairy creamer to their coffee. 3. Take a break and do some exercise Researchers also found that taking breaks during the workday is important for workers to replace workplace “resources” - energy, motivation, and concentration. These resources aren't limitless, and periodically need “charging” by doing activities that require less effort or use different resources than normal work, or are just something the worker enjoys.

A classic remedy now supported by a University of Pennsylvania study is to divide tasks into smaller pieces so you can work through a more manageable series of assignments. Use the higher energy levels you have in the morning to do a small task you don't feel like doing, such as phoning someone you have been reluctant to contact. You'll give yourself the mood and energy boost that comes from a small achievement. 5. Do one thing at a time Don't be tempted to multitask. Our brains are not suited to dealing with multiple streams of information or doing multiple jobs at the same time. The more tasks we try to do simultaneously, the slower we complete them and the more mistakes we make. Further, the research found that those who do multitask are more prone to becoming distracted by their environment.

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By contrast, take that difficult phone call you just made. You gave it your full attention and finished it. Now, do something else important and then take a short coffee break, perhaps a walk. Your body and your mind will be in top gear and so will your productivity.

APJ 19

starperformer

SKEYNDOR's Timeless Prodigy Age management and the biotechnology connection BIOTECHNOLOGY is the new force in our industry that is rapidly changing the cosmetic landscape and bringing results for clients with greater safety. Biotechnology-derived ingredients are highly popular with clients as the modern-day consumer is strongly preferring naturally-derived ingredients with a safer yet efficacious profile.

50 million Damask Rose Stem Cells to renew and invigorate the epidermis, strengthen, increase the firmness and elasticity of the skin and boost brightness. And, White Truffle, known at SKEYNDOR as 'The White Diamond' for its remarkably efficient antioxidant effect. It vastly improves and maintains hydration levels and intensifies nourishment. The line features a salon based professional treatment and two homecare products - The Serum and The Cream. Caressing the skin, both homecare maintenance products contain an ultra-sophisticated and exclusive fragrance from the Rose family with the top notes of Bergamot and Wild Raspberry, the exquisite hues of Jasmine and Magnolia and the alluring touches of Patchouli, all set in a base of Amber and Musk. The Serum features the ultimate in texture and an unexpected sensory experience that brings immediate softness, comfort and hydration to the epidermis. Its unique formulation is quickly adapted to any skin type to release its benefits. Featuring a concentrated formula of 15 powerful and active ingredients, including Growth Factors, Proteoglycans, Piedmont White Truffle and the revitalising power of 50 million Damask Rose Stem Cells for an extraordinary rejuvenating effect. Add to this list, micro-collagen bioactive, A, B and C Vitamins and Tea Kombucha.

SKEYNDOR's cutting edge approach has harnessed the benefits of natural herbs at a level previously inaccessible and this progressive age-prevention technology is Timeless Prodigy. The line answers the challenge of reversing the signs of passing of time and provides the skin with the ingredients explicitly proficient and capable of awakening the skin, addressing the preservation of a youthful vitality and correcting the signs of ageing. They have identified the many variants related to the main functions of ageing skin including, for example, anti-oxidative capacity, collagen breakdown and collapse, elasticity structure and hydration ability. Scientifically conducted results on Timeless Prodigy revealed: A 100% rejuvenated skin appearance A 100% softening in wrinkling A 91% improvement in state and appearance of the skin and, A 90% improvement in tone and radiance Timeless Prodigy features three specific and ground-breaking rejuvenation strategies: Cell Genesis Activators to target and build volume and density Cell Quality Perfectors to address skin firmness and vitality and Cell Functioning Enhancers whose goal is brightness and evenness. Together, this pioneering approach stimulates a youthful genetic appearance, slows down cellular ageing and aids in recovering for a more youthful expression. In addition to the outstanding rejuvenation strategies, the Timeless Prodigy line combines an extraordinary complex of plant origin ingredients with multi-genic action. Together they have the ability to successfully reduce the ageing aspects of skin cells and turn back the clock. The Timeless Prodigy formula includes: Five growth factors acting to repair and rejuvenate, significantly softening the appearance of lines and wrinkles, re-densifying the skin and stimulating the formation of brand new cells.

The Cream is a lavish anti-ageing formula with more than 10 powerful actives including growth factors, proteoglycans which provide hydration, due to their immense water binding capacity. They also act as connective tissue organisers, influencing and regulating fibroblast production. It also contains the legendary and luxurious Piedmont white truffle recognised for its highly prized antioxidant power. Containing vitamins, trace elements and amino acids, it offers complete care for the skin. Boosting DNA repair this ingredient also boosts firmness and radiance. The jewel in the crown is the addition of 50 million Damask Rose stem cells aid in slowing down the ageing process and offer protection from UV damage, while comforting the most demanding skin cell needs. The Cream create a perfect 'second skin' effect, restructuring, repairing and protecting the skin's outer layers. For more information on the Avant garde Timeless Prodigy and the future in skincare, please email info@vogueimage.com.au, call 1 800 554 545 or visit www.vogueimage.com.au.

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ORK

STAMFORD PLAZA – JULY 30th 2017

CTITIO NE PRA

BRISBANE

AESTHETIC

APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE VISORY NE

GET READY FOR AN INCREDIBLE CONFERENCE PROGRAM! This year’s Brisbane conference program promises amazing new information. New scientific breakthroughs, collaborative relationships that can generate more income for you and reposition your business with a fresh more modern contemporary model to attract new clients and support greater loyalty with existing clients. The latest business strategies, regulatory advances and further professional development units to position you as a leader in your field. If you are serious about business growth and working smarter rather than harder this conference program is a must-attend. APAN’s point-of-difference is that it is not commercially biased towards any company or products. Our aim is to empower you with generic education, new scientific developments, business strategies and information that will equip you to measure the options available to you through credible educational information. You are a professional and it is important that in the mix of things you also benefit from a totally objective conference program. Please prioritise to attend this amazing event. We promise it will inspire you and open new horizons for you both professionally and with your business. Our industry is evolving in new and dynamic ways. Join us and be first to benefit from this information. APAN conferences are also about inspiration and valuable networks. We look after you with wonderful food and you get to meet some amazing industry professionals and establish some great connections. In this issue of APJ we profile one of our members – Carolyn Della Zoppa from Adelaide who flew to Perth to attend our event and is committed to our conference programs because of the value she gains.. This is what she said: The purpose and value of my APAN membership has to do with the importance of being part of an organisation that is committed to improving regulations and training standards for the future of the industry as a whole. It is important that we have a body that is prepared to fight for us. As a member, I benefit from the credibility of belonging to a leading industry standards body and I also benefit from the confidence that I can turn to a reputable organisation that can offer me support, business advice, legal advice and backup when the need arises. Additionally, APAN's conference programs are fantastic, not only for learning, but building relationships and contacts with other, like-minded professionals as well as with supply companies. Carolyn Della Zoppa - Adelaide.

PLEASE ARRIVE AT 8.30am to collect your delegates kit and network. 100

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Topic: EPIGENETICS – THE NEW FRONTIER IN HEALTH AND In this lecture you will learn: ! Current industry changes SKINCARE ! New developments in the regulatory space Speaker: Associate Professor Derek ! APAN's evolving role in the industry Richard, Scientific Director, Cancer ! Strategies for positioning yourself for growth and Ageing Research Program, QUT Time: 9am - 9.45am NETWORKING BREAK 11.00AM – 11.30AM Epigenetics is the study of changes in organisms caused by modification of gene expression rather than alteration of the genetic code itself. The field of epigenetics is quickly growing and with it the understanding that both the environment and individual lifestyle can also directly interact with the genome to influence epigenetic change. These changes may be reflected at various stages throughout a person’s life and even in later generations. To discuss this amazing subject and its relevance to skin ageing, diseases such as cancer and the potential next generation in antiageing skincare Associate Professor Derek Richards will present a compelling lecture outlining new scientific findings and how they are impacting the way we address illnesses and skin health

In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

What is epigenetics? The role of epigenetic in ageing and skin health How is cell function altered by epigenetics? Unveiling foreseeable therapies through new scientific discoveries NETWORKING BREAK 9.45AM – 10.15AM (morning tea)

Topic: REBOOT FOR PROFIT Speaker: Caroline Nelson - Nelson Beauty Business Management Time: 11.30am - 12.15pm In her lecture Reboot for Profit, Caroline Nelson will unveil the keys to developing a powerful, productive and profitable business. Participants will gain a better understanding on how to build more profits, gain more clients, and the most successful ways to support and mentor a strong team culture. They will learn the key to surviving and thriving in the increasingly competitive aesthetics industry with vital tips and tricks of the trade for a flourishing commercial business. Caroline Nelson is Director of Nelson Beauty Business Management. She is a renowned aesthetic industry consultant and business development coach, trainer and presenter who specialises in proven practical bottom-line profit-building techniques. Caroline is renowned for “re-booting” poor performing businesses into high profit with her easy-to-implement strategies and transforming goals into reality. Caroline’s success is attributed to her phenomenal knowledge of the

Topic: DO YOU KNOW HOW TO INTERPRET CURRENT industry, her understanding of today’s consumer, and her ahead-ofCHANGES? trend aesthetic business knowledge. Speaker: Tina Viney - CEO of APAN Caroline is a wonderful communicator with incredible energy and an Time: 10.15am - 11.00am infectious passion to see others succeed. With so many advances in the industry there are shifts and changes happening on so many levels – consumer buying habits, technology and regulations just to name a few. Are you aware how these changes are contributing to a constantly evolving industry and how can they influence your current position for progress and growth? Gain inside information and learn how to best take advantage of them. Tina Viney is a foremost expert in the area of global trends, industry standards and regulations. She is a passionate advocate in pursuing initiatives that will best support and protect the industry into the future. This lecture will give you an industry update on the latest developments that will shape the industry now and in future years.

Caroline brings a wealth of knowledge gained over 45+ years of experience and research that is “exclusive” to the professional aesthetic industry. Caroline is proud to have assisted countless salon, spa and clinics around nation-wide to realise their dreams of business success.

In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

Easy to apply Time Management techniques – the difference between effectiveness and efficiency The best ways to recruit and the quickest ways to train and develop high achievers make your training dollars generate maximum sales Easy to implement Systems and Processes – for higher productivity and increased bottom-line profits Ways to maximise aesthetic technology program sales – make your equipment profit builders instead of a dust collectors

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LUNCH BREAK 12.15 – 1.15PM 0

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Topic: HORMONES AND THE SKIN Speaker: Gay Wardle – Lecturer, Multi-award winner Time: 1.15pm – 2.00pm The endocrine system is one of the most important factors that impacts the ageing of the body and the skin. This wonderful system produces and regulates hormones that decline with age, illness, stress, medications and diet, just to mention a few. The effects these declining levels have a great impact on the skin. In this lecture Gay Wardle will help you gain a more comprehensive understanding of the impact of hormones on skin health and skin disorders. Gay is a highly qualified and experienced clinician who is passionate about sharing her knowledge with practitioners and clinics who wish to bring their treatment results to the next level. She is an amazing educator and travels in every state sharing her knowledge in the area of Advanced Skin Analysis theory and practice, nutrition for the skin and how to effectively work with technologies to achieve incredible treatment outcomes.

In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

The role of the endocrine systems in health and disease prevention The impart of hormones on skin disorders How to identify dysfunction within the endocrine system Treatment options and solutions NETWORKING BREAK 2.00PM - 2.30PM

Topic: TOPICAL ANAETHETICS EDUCATION, QUALIFICATIONS AND REGULATIONS Speaker: Chris Testa – Compounding Pharmacist, Senior Lecturer Time: 2.30pm – 3.15pm The issue of topical anaesthetic for nonmedical practitioners currently has several regulatory restrictions.

To p i c : B O O S T Y O U R B O T T O M - L I N E T H R O U G H C O M P L E M E N TA RY A H E A LT H COLLABORATION Speaker: Miesha Marie Time: 3.45pm - 4.30pm Today's consumers are looking for skin treatment results that are substantially more advanced than in past years. To achieve this you require both advanced techniques as well as the support of cutting edge technologies. In past years consumers with a skin problem visited their doctor for solutions, and to their skin therapist just to refresh their skin and feel better, but not for corrective purposes. This is now changing with modern tools and advanced procedures. However, when dealing with stubborn skin conditions underlying systemic imbalances are often contributing factors. This is where a collaborative relationship with a naturopath or healthcare practitioner can substantially improve treatment outcomes by diagnosing and addressing underling inflammation and concerns. Miesha Marie is qualified Naturopath and also holds qualifications in cosmetic chemistry as well as Business Management, Website Development and Digital Technologies. In this presentation she will discuss how businesses can substantially grow their income by establishing a successful and supportive collaboration with a complementary health practitioner. Having achieve success in this are Miesha will present successful strategies and ways of extending your business offerings and retaining and growing your clientele.

In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

How naturopathy can benefit your clients and your treatment outcomes Setting up a successful collaboration Ways to promote these services Marketing and promotional strategies

PRE-REGISTRATION IS ESSENTIAL FOR CATERING PURPOSES

However, the pursuit of education and further qualifications is strongly contributing towards future regulatory changes.

APAN MEMBERS: $239 - Non members $255. Special rates apply for group bookings of three or more.

In 2015 APAN together with Chris Testa launched a professional development program – Introduction to the safe use of Topical Anaesthetics. In 2017 APAN is delighted to introduce the Advanced Course: Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetics.

To register for the Brisbane Conference visit www.apanetwork.com and complete your registration form on-line or phone 07 55930360 for any further questions.

Chris Testa is a highly respect Compound Pharmacist and senior lecturer at Griffith University on the subject of topical anaesthetics. Chris will present a regulatory overview as it relates to the acquisition of topical anaesthetics and the implications for clinical practice – current and future changes.

FOR HOTEL ACCOMMODATION AT THE STAMFORD PLAZA PLEASE PHONE 07 3221 1999 AND REQUEST THE APAN CONFERENCE RATES. THE STAMFORD PLAZA IS LOCATED AT THE CORNER OF EDWARD AND MARGARET STREETS, BRISBANE Q 4000.

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In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

The pharmacist's and the compounder's obligation relating to supply as well as patient and clinical support The importance of patient evaluation and disclosure Medical conditions, interaction with medication and supplements When and how to refer to a GP in line with current regulations

NETWORKING BREAK 3.15PM - 3.45PM (afternoon tea) 5

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COSMETIC TATOOING|MICROBLADING REGULATORY UPDATE By Katherine McCann

k.mccann@apanetwork.com REGULATION persists as a challenge for the Cosmetic Tattooing industry as the popularity of Microblading continues to experience growth at an unprecedented rate, but as APAN continues to work towards a collaborative industry solution we still need your help! In response to the ever-increasing number of issues arising as a result of lack of industry regulation, education, consensus on agreement of standardisation and best practice, industry bodies APAN and the Association of Cosmetic Tattoo (ACT) acknowledged concerns raised not only at the local and national levels, but also on the international front, highlighted the growing imperative and importance of ensuring that a proactive and collaborative stance with respect to self regulation was needed sooner rather than later. Therefore earlier in the year, APAN sent out a request for industry feedback via the Regulatory Microblading Survey, whichoutlined a number of actionable options with respect to major concerns relating to Microblading education and provided people an opportunity to read about what's happening and provide respective feedback. Overwhelmingly, as the Beauty Industry Training package is not up for review for approximately two years, the vast majority of responses were in favor of moving forward with an interim proposal

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to create an industry endorsed Microblading course that ensures all fundamentals of cosmetic tattoo such as skin biology, infection control, wound management, colour theory, etc would be covered as foundation training along with microblading techniques and associated theory.This option will also act as learning 'pathway' for any microblading students who wish to apply for recognition of prior learning and upgrade to the full unit of competency in the future.

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It is also important to highlight that this option is an interim only solution that was voted better than doing nothing as any inactivity on our part as an industry would give rise to the position that the current status is acceptable by the industry. Furthermore, legislators would require an industry position to base their potential action when addressing botched jobs, or related media attention.

COMING UP WITH A VIABLE SOLUTION IS TOUGH! The difficulty with Cosmetic Tattooing as an industry is that is tends to sit with its foot in multiple camps – being beauty/aesthetics/medical/healthcare – thus creating a political minefield when it comes to navigating murky waters, all of which create far-reaching operational challenges, not only to businesses and industry bodies, but also raises significant concern for the future of practitioners when it comes to classification, standardisation and measurability. Now I know you may be thinking there's been activity in the regulatory space for a while across a number of CT issues and its easy to become discouraged when it appears only a little progress being made – hot spot topics appear to come and go with no resolution, but I assure you, there is forward movement and we remain committed to the cause despite ongoing challenges. One of the major highlights from the feedback APAN has received loud and clear off the back of the Microblading Survey feedback is that many cosmetic tattooists and businesses still lack a fundamental understanding of what the regulatory process actually looks like; what is involved in the process and ultimately, context behind the necessity and push towards a holistic framework or methodology for the same. This is important because not knowing what is involved means people lose faith quickly and enthusiasm and support begin to drop off leaving only a few who remain committed and undeterred to the end result.

place that are supported by persistence, patience and passion in order for the required outcome can be achieved. I also want you to know that we too share your frustrations and that haunting red tape at times is SUPER thick! In short, the pace and complexity of regulatory change WILL vary significantly. Meanwhile we need the industry to come together to form quorum in order to begin the SELF REGULATORY process, because without clearly defined industry standards this may ultimately hamper a Cosmetic Tattooist's ability to change and grow their business now and in the future. The US is also making progress with regard to establishing Microblading guidelines around procedural safety, however unlike Australia, the US does not have nationally accredited education standards, as with 52 States this process is very complex. However, here in Australia our aim is to lead the way in identifying and introducing a solid foundation through national standards in the notso-distant future.

A COLLECTIVE VOICE WILL BE HEARD APAN needs your support and continual input by providing us with your feedback. Please note that this is NOT a simple or overnight process – even for an experienced and established regulatory advocate with extensive industrial, political and legal experience that understands what is required to ensure our voice will be heard at the highest level, navigating continual change is difficult, just like trying to score a goal through moving goal posts, but we must keep the pressure up.

“The Cosmetic Tattoo Industry is experiencing a constant state of flux and at the end of the day it's apparent everyone is asking the same question “why aren't we regulated?”

WE ALL PLAY A ROLE AND HOW YOU CAN HELP

Unfortunately with an increasing level of Government and environmental volatility, means there will always be a number of foreseeable and unforeseeable concerns that stem from both internal and external factors – all of which are out of our control and unavoidable, but we need to work with and around to achieve a positive outcome.

Later this year APAN and the ACT will finalise stage two of the Industry Endorsed Self-accreditation Process and will once again be reaching out for feedback. We are interested in hearing directly from you as practitioners, business owners, employees and industry professionals with regard to your thoughts, feelings and on the ground experiences and welcome proactive and solution orientated feedback, ideas and concepts that we can use to continually improve and put forward relevant and industry focused submissions in order to ensure uniform industry standards and best practice can be achieved.

So its also important to know upfront that this state of constant change will continue, as will the nature and complexity of ongoing political agendas – all of which will affect progress and often mean issues are 'sidelined' or 'rerouted' in terms of political priority and for a number of other reasons. This is why it's important to remain focused, consistent and committed to our objective of raising industry standards.

We are in a fortunate position where we (as the collective) have the opportunity to self regulate and demonstrate what we put in place is a good starting point for the government when they do look directly on us (even if it's not 100% perfect) – but we all know – everything has to start somewhere and have a solid foundation in order to build a sustainable future. We are all in this together as a community of practice.

It is important to understand that in pursuing a regulatory outcome there are several challenges that need to be overcome. This process requires knowledge and skill on how to navigate through the government channels. Meanwhile, change of government can almost reset the agenda – every shift in cabinet has a ripple affect, often resulting in new rules, new processes, as well as adjustment and adaptation to inter-departmental change, funding allocations (or cuts) and so on. Role changes, forging of new contacts and relationships, as well as agreement in order to continue to move forward is constantly required and its important to note that all this takes time, energy and funding. Additionally, specific strategies must be put in

Katherine McCann is a qualified beauty professional, cosmetic tattooist and tertiary postgraduate with a strong background in Human Resource Management, training and strategic business development. Katherine holds an advisory position with the Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) and is passionate about industry standards and regulation, she has also taught at both vocational and University level and is an active industry contributor and journalist. Based on the Gold Coast, Queensland, Katherine is the founder of The Ava Clinic and has a keen interest in micropigmentation and trauma resolution.

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Register Today! ADVANCED COURSE: Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetics We are delighted to announce that following the Introductory Course in the Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetics we are now launching the ADVANCED COURSE IN THE SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS. The training will be delivered by Compounding Pharmacist Chris Testa. Chris is a highly respected guest lecturer on the topic of pharmaceutical compounding and the regulatory aspects of compounding which he delivers at the School of Pharmacy, Griffith University. He is also the owner and manager of Tugun Compounding Pharmacy.

COURSE OUTLINE AND LEARNING OBJECTIVES 1. REGULATORY OVERVIEW

! !

Scheduling of topical anaesthetics Pharmacist's and Compounder's obligation relating to supply as well as patient and clinical support

Learning Objectives: After this session you will be able to: ! Establish procedures for your own clinic to ensure regulations are met in relation to acquisition of topical anaesthetics for patients. ! Explain the role and responsibilities of pharmacists in relation to supply of topical anaesthetics.

2. PATIENT EVALUATION

Patient disclosure, patient information collection, documentation and evaluation. (Form templates and tools to facilitate evaluation)

Learning Objectives: After this session you will be able to: ! Develop a patient information collection form for your own clinic. ! Determine from the information collected if a topical anaesthetic is contraindicated for a particular patient or if special precautions are needed. ! Prepare a referral letter for the patients GP if a medical release is required, or a prescription only topical anaesthetic formulation is needed.

3. SELECTION OF THE APPROPRIATE TOPICAL ANAESTHETIC FORMULATION

Properties of topical anaesthetics, ephinephrine and vehicles used as bases for each formulation.

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! ! ! !

Systemic absorption, metabolism and clearance of local anaesthetics. Matching the formula to the patient and procedure. Calculating the exact amount of actives applied. Review of available clinical data on systemic absorption of local anaesthetics and practical application of this information.

Learning Objectives: After this session you will be able to: ! Select the most appropriate topical anaesthetic formulation for each patient. ! Demonstrate a sound understanding of the properties of each active ingredient in each formula. ! Be able to calculate the exact dose of a topical anaesthetic that would be applied in each procedure.

4. SAFE APPLICATION OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS

! ! ! ! ! !

Skin preparation. How much to apply, duration of application and surface area of application. Precautions. Minor and serious adverse effects and how to respond. Evaluation of procedure and outcomes. Aftercare and take home information for the patient.

Learning Objectives: After this session you will be able to: ! Explain the safe application principals and how these are to be applied in practise. ! Identify adverse effects and develop a response strategy.

5. WORKSHOP AND CASES

A practical application of various templates, tools and worksheets provided to patient and clinic settings.

Learning Objectives: After this session you will be able to: ! Demonstrate an ability to apply key safety principals and procedures to the workplace. ! Prepare an action plan for tailoring and integration of various templates, information sheets, into your daily clinic practice.

WHO SHOULD UNDERTAKE THIS TRAINING? This course will be considered as part of a proposed regulatory framework for the aesthetics industry and is recommended for all cosmetic tattoo practitioners, cosmetic nurses, dermal therapists and aesthetic therapists who perform any skin penetration procedures or advanced procedures that require pain management. To register for this course you will need to have completed the Introductory Course, which is now also available as an on-line study course for those who have not completed it (see page 111). This course is also recognised as part of ARAP Registration for qualified practitioners (see page 97 for further details). Date of Training: Monday 31st July 2017 following the APAN Aesthetics Conference Time: 9.30am - 4.30pm Location: Brisbane (to be advised) Meals and refreshments will be provided Cost: $330 This is a full day Post Graduate Professional Development Course and will include manual and Statement of Completion. To register please visit www.apanetwork.com. For further details contact APAN 07 5593 0360.

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TATTOO REMOVAL and the SKINIAL Method Up until a few years ago, laser treatment was the only way to get rid of tattoos, whether cosmetic tattoos or body tattoos, but that's not the only way anymore. There is now a new, more gentle approach. Deanne Carney is a qualified and experienced cosmetic tattooist with a degree in Secondary Education and 20 years teaching experience. Deanne is also a franchise owner of the well-established SKINIAL Non-laser tattoo removal, which is gaining momentum as an effective alternative to laser tattoo removal. Deanne shares with us how she got involved with SKINIAL and the benefits this tattoo removal method offers both consumers and business owners.

and the results that I applied and become a franchise owner. I am now a trainer for the company as well, which allows me to combine my teaching skills with my passion for helping people. I love helping other tattoo, beauty and medical professionals take advantage of this revolutionary service. SKINIAL tattoo removal offers businesses the opportunity to provide an additional service to new, or existing clients. With new clients wishing to have a cosmetic tattoo, or body tattoo removed, you have the opportunity to service them with other treatments you are offering and vice versa. SKINIAL treatments range from $100 - $450 per treatment.

APJ Q1. TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND Q2. WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF USING THIS METHOD FOR TATTOO REMOVAL? AND WHY YOU BECOME INVOLVED WITH SKINIAL? I was a secondary school teacher for more than 20 years. I loved teaching but felt the need for more autonomy and to express myself creatively while still being in a helping role. I was introduced to cosmetic tattoo by a dear friend. I undertook studies and trained as a cosmetic tattooist. I have been working in this area now for 10 years and absolutely love it. Watching the tattoo industry grow at an alarming pace, I felt there would soon be a huge demand for tattoo removal also, so I began to investigate options to add to my professional services. I considered laser tattoo removal, but research presented many dangers with this method. In particular, studies where pigments had become highly toxic fissions, even carcinogenic in nature, and were then disbursed into the body for elimination. This was a huge concern for me, so I was not comfortable with this method of tattoo removal. I looked into many non-laser methods and then came across SKINIAL – new to Australia, but with a long history in Europe. SKINIAL was known for its safety and its effectiveness. The company offered great support and comprehensive training and it was also a very cost-effect method and promising investment. SKINIAL was achieving great results using a completely natural product, Lactic acid. It is the most widespread acid in nature and part of energy production in the body. I was so impressed by the company, the product

Partial, or full removal of bad brows is no longer a problem. Unlike laser tattoo removal the hair follicle is not damaged. Full brow removal takes 23 treatments, partial shape correction 1-2 treatments and 3-5 for body tattoos. Re-tattooing is possible within months of the treatment. This method is much less painful than laser. We don't fade ink we take ink out of the body. SKINIAL uses the body's own rejection processes to push the pigment to the skin surface so the inks are not absorbed internally. There is less risk of scarring than with laser and other non-laser methods because we only work on the epidermis. The surface of the epidermis is abraded using any standard cartridge micropigmentation device. The SKINIAL solution is applied using the SKINIAL SKI-DO-MA method causing the solution to be absorbed into the dermal layers. The pigment is lifted from each treated area, which allows us to accurately estimate the number of treatments required. SKINIAL removes all colours equally, even tattoo cover ups. Within 30 minutes of a treatment there is no residue left in the body

APJ Q3. DOES THE LACTIC ACID USED BY SKINIAL CARRY ANY RISKS OF BURNING? The short answer is “no”. The removal fluid, SKINIAL EX, is dilute lactic acid with a pH of 3 and is skin friendly. It is registered in the Cosmetic Product Notification Portal (CPNP). To achieve this registration you must be certified for safety and efficacy. SKINIAL provides a solution for unhappy cosmetic tattoo clients, regretful body tattoo clients and clients suffering from allergic reactions, due to toxic pigments. SKINIAL allows businesses to benefit from this growth opportunity for a cost-effective investment. Training is tailored to the business's needs. Cosmetic tattoo removal, body tattoo removal or both. The training is hands-on and includes your starter kit valued at $900. In a few years all studios will offer tattoo removal without laser. Be part of the beginning.

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If you are interested in further information about introducing SKINIAL treatments to your business please contact Deanne Carney on 0423 621 764.

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The Role of the Acid Mantle and the Natural Moisturising Factor in

PRODUCT PERMEABILITY By Terry Everitt

FOLLOWING on from Terry Everitt's article Inflammation Leads to Inflammageing in the autumn issue of APJ Journal where he more than adequately described how inflammation is damaging us, he now turns attention to two of the epidermal barriers that help prevent such occurrence. The two permeability barriers that we all know, but sometimes have limited understanding are the Acid Mantle and the Natural Moisturising Factor(NMF). In another insightful article for APJ, Terry as always discusses from a scientific viewpoint. There seems to be a lot of confusion around the Acid Mantle and the Natural Moisturising Factor. I can understand why, as they have, in part at least, the same biochemical pathway of filaggrin degradation. Although this process is part of both protective barriers of the stratum corneum, each has different protective mechanisms and roles to achieve in keeping both you and your epidermis, safe.

everyone with everything going on all have the exact same pH in the skin? Other texts provide a range, generally between 4.5 -6.2. this is slightly better than absolute 5.5 pH yet still not much help as on the pH log, this is a great distance pH wise, given each is a 100 % increase. The truth being said there is a vast range of pH activity happening on the skin of the body – different parts have different pH values naturally and then the epidermis itself changes in pH values from the start to finish of the keratinocytes life cycle.

NATURAL MOISTURISING FACTOR CHEMICAL COMPOSITION Chemical composition of NMF

Free amino acids and urocanic acid

40.0

Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid

12.0

Lactate

12.0

Sugars, organic acids, peptides, unidentified materials

8.5

Urea

7.0

THE ACID MANTLE – MORE THAN KEEPING THE EPIDERMIS BUG-FREE

Chloride

6.0

Sodium

5.0

Many think the role of the Acid Mantle is purely for antimicrobial defence, which is true, however, the acid mantle is responsible for three other functions.

Potassium

4.0

Ammonia, uric acid, glucosamine, creatine

1.5

Calcium

1.5

S i n c e S c h a d e a n d Marchionini(1928) first coined the term Säuremantel or “acid mantle” in their discovery of the acidic nature of the stratum corneum (Ali and Yosipovitch 2013), much more has been learnt about the acid mantle. Let's check this out:

Magnesium

1.5

Phosphate

0.5

Citrate, formate

The acid mantle is critical for: ! Stratum Corneum integrity, cohesion and desquamation ! Pro-inflammatory cytokine activation ! Enzyme activation and/or deactivation ! Epidermal permeability barrier homoeostasis

The pH is higher in interdigital spaces and intertriginous areas (where two skin surfaces are together such as the axillae, u p p e r g r o i n , inframammary zone) compared to other skin sites.This higher pH leads to colonisation by certain odour-producing resident bacteria such as propioni bacteriaand staphylococci. I find the protection mechanisms of the epidermis really fascinating and I became interested in the variability of the acid mantle when studying neonatal skin ontogeny years ago and noted how epidermal pH changed so much.

Did you know a full term neonatal has a neutral skin 0.5 pH? The pH decreases significantly during the (Harding & Rawlings 2005) first 1–4 days, and continues to drop during the first three months at which time the acid mantle is fully developed.

All these functions help to restore and keep epidermal barrier homoeostasis. Many texts in the beauty therapy arena are not much help in describing the Acid Mantle; stating it is a mix of sebum and water and providing a 5.5 pH. This absolute is a major upset for me – how can

Also, did you know that the stratum germinativum (or Basale or Basal if that's how you know it) has a neutral pH and the pH develops as the cells come up to the top of the epidermis?

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WHERE DOES IT COME FROM? The acidic pH of the stratum corneum has long been regarded as a result of exocrine secretion of the skin glands and thought to be somewhat the same throughout the body, which is not the case. The acid mantle comes to be in a great part due to the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF) and free fatty acids (derived from

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phospholipid, ceramide, and sebum breakdown) contributing towards a gradual acidification of the stratum corneum. Don't worry, I am not going into this biochemical amazement too deeply here, as it is easy to get lost quickly, so here is the short version. Something called the sodium–protein antiporter, type 1selectively acidifies extracellular lipid domains in the upper stratum granulosum. This is where sphingomyelin and glucosylceramides are processed into ceramides by two acidic pH-dependent enzymes, acidic sphingomyelinase (aSMase) and β-glucocerebrosidase (βGlcCer'ase), thereby generating the beginning of the acid mantle. Additionally, secretory phospholipase releases some free fatty acids from glycerophospholipids, which in turn releases arachidonic acid that is subsequently converted to eicosanoids. The third part is the breakdown of filaggrin into polycarboxylic acids. (Adapted from Elias 2015). There are many factors that can change the pH and are classified as endogenous such as age, genetic predisposition, ethnicity, anatomic site, sebum level and skin moisture. Outside forces also play their part as exogenous factors such as detergents, cosmetics, soaps, occlusive dressings, skin irritants, topical antibacterial usage (Ali &Yosipovitch 2013).

These enzymes are controlled in an acidic environment, keeping to a homeostatic constant state. However, when pH rises to the enzymes optima (6.5 pH) then they cause an inappropriate rapid desquamation, which decrease the integrity of the stratum corneum by a rapid exfoliation effect. (Ekholm, Brattsand and Egelrud 2000).This is a hallmark of several dermatosis, as seen in the Ichthyosis group of skin conditions such as psoriasis.

ATOPIC DERMATITIS Nowhere is the importance of the acid mantle components for skin barrier integrity shown more than with atopic dermatitis (AD). It is not totally clear which comes first – atopic dermatitis or damaged acid mantle function. We know that free amino acids and urocanic acid needed for the acid mantle is very reduced in AD. Also established is the protein filaggrin, a precursor for some free fatty acids required for complete acid mantle is majorly impaired (and at times missing completely) in AD.Those with AD have increased Staphylococci aureus colonisation, again something the acid mantle keeps control of. Impaired acid mantle has also been implicated in other impaired epidermal conditions such as Ichtyosis, Candid Albicans infections, Irritant Contact Dermatitis, P.acnes involved with inflammatory acne, to name a few (Ali &Yosipovitch 2013).

NATURAL MOISTURISING FACTOR The stratum corneum, being the outer surface tissue needs moisture to maintain its flexibility, integrity, and critical catabolic activity.

PIGMENTATION DIFFERENCES AND PH VALUES It has been reported that darker pigmented skin has a lower pH (some 50-fold more acidic) than lighter skins and Gunathilake et al (2009) showed this to be the case. Fitzpatrick IV–V (pH 4.6 ± 0.03) verses Fitzpatrick I–II (5.0 ± 0.04). This is due in part to the extrusion of melanin granules at the SG-SC interface which provides the difference in pH although it is not known exactly how this occurs. The study also found greater integrity in barrier functioning in the higher Fitzpatrick types, which the authors said was due to noticeable differences in lipid content and lower Serine Protease content.

WHY DO WE NEED ACIDIC SKIN? One major reason is to maintain the hydrophobic permeability barrier, which rests on the lipid organisation of lamellar bilayers. Once the keratinocyte in the stratum granulosum has moved the lipids into the extracellular space, the lipid processing is controlled by the pH of the extracellular spaces. A major part of these lipids are ceramides, which require two enzymes that make this happen – β-glucocerebrosidase and acidic sphingomyelinase, as mentioned above. These need an acidic environment to function (5.6 and 4.5, respectively). They are deactivated in pH of 6 or above, so the lack of the acidic mantle would result in a lack of, or at least a disorganisation of the lipid bilayers in the epidermis. In turn this would result in altered epidermal permeability barrier homeostasis.

DESQUAMATION Desquamation of the stratum corneum is a controlled process that prevents a build-up of the epidermis. Enzymes are responsible for the constant state of desquamation of the top layers of the stratum corneum; chymotrypsin (or more precisely stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme - SCCE) and the serine proteases, trypsin-like enzyme (TLE) and kallikreins 5 and 7. These are needed to dissolve the desmosomes keeping corneocytes together so they can release and float off to make house dust. The TLE has a proteolytic action yet also acts to activate SCCE. Both have an optima action around pH of 6.5-7, yet somehow also works at 5.5pH. Go figure!

The lower epidermal strata maintain approximately 80% moisture levels, which is lessened by the time the keratinocytes become corneocytes in the Corneum, which maintains an approximately 10% water content. This water is joined by a group of molecules that form what is known as the Natural Moisturising Factor (NMF), which is about 10% of dry weight of the epidermis. Components of NMF include lactic acid, urea, citrate and sugars, sodium, chloride, with approx. 40% of the NMF composed of amino acids and their derivatives, such as pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid (PCA) and urocanic acid (UCA), created from the enzymatic processing of filaggrin; somewhat the same process as in creation of the acid mantle. Many of these constituent chemicals, particularly the PCA and lactic acid salts, are intensely hygroscopic. It is easy to see from these that the NMF is a good humectant. The NMF absorbs atmospheric water, while helping as a protective barrier in keeping the epidermal water levels intact, (which includes reducing any Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), along with the three major lipids (Ceramides, Cholesterol and Fatty Acids, such as linoleic, oleic, palmitic and stearic acids). These are in a ratio of 50% ceramides, 30% cholesterol and 20% fatty acids (Thornfeldt 2000). It was of great interest when hyaluronan (hyaluronic acid) was found in the epidermis by Sakai et al (2000) and Pienimaki et al (2001) answered the where and how questions. Having this and Glycerol, derived from sebaceous triglyceride breakdown, has shown the NMF to be a major chemical mechanism for barrier protection. 100

FILAGGRIN The protein filaggrin is crucial for the adequate development of the epidermal structure and barrier function.

Filaggrin is synthesised as a giant precursor protein, profilaggrin, the main constituent of the keratohyalin granules that are found within the granular layer of the epidermis. 25

It is ultimately degraded to its component amino acids including histidine. These amino acids are highlyhygroscopic and are the major

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components of the NaturalMoisturising Factor and the Acid Mantle, both as we know are crucial for epidermal barrier function. Filaggrin loss-of-function mutations are associated with disorganised keratin production and abnormal architecture of the lamellar bilayerwhich contribute to the dysfunctional skin barrier and enhanced allergen exposure among other functions of Filaggrin.

SKIN CARE PRODUCT HELP The need is to increase or maintain an acidic environment – part of this is to never leave the skin in a compromised alkaline condition. At times, you may want to induce an alkaline reaction on the skin (to help reduce Staphylococci and gram negative bacteria for example). This is not necessarily a bad thing, if you repair the damage at the end of the treatment to restore these vital protective barriers. In skin cleansing, the use of a syndet (synthetic detergents which are neutral, frequently acidic) cleanser is always advised, rather than soap based detergents (alkaline). While I am sure you are professionally using a syndet based cleanser, you do need to check what your client is using at home.

achieve. I firmly believe that your consultation is more important than your treatment if the treatment is to sustain its benefits.

Most moisturisers have a 'hero' ingredient or some trade secret to have market share, yet the basics still need to be in the product to do good. We are into the age of biomimetic products; that is having ingredients that match (as much as possible) what is in the skin naturally. Some you will not recognise, or have less than ideal thoughts about – how many want their moisturiser full of cholesterol? Even if that might be a good idea).

Both the Acid Mantle and the Natural Moisturising Factor, although separate entities, share some common pathways in their individual development, yet both play important separate and symbiotic roles in the maintenance of the protective chemically based permeability barrier.

I am not going to list ingredients as to include all possible, would go on almost forever – your professional products would have some of them in. Base need is that you look for a semi-occlusive humectant emollient emulsion. That will help the NMF do its protective job. Even better is if the total product, not just individual ingredients, are pH balanced for the skin.

Terry Everitt is a regular contributor to APJ Journal. He is regarded as a Master Educator who educates from a scientific, not a marketing background. Since 1988 Clinical Aesthetics has been his interest, being trained in the USA and we are lucky to have him here in Australia. APAN is excited that Terry will return to be our Master of Ceremonies at our National Aesthetic Conferences. Terry can be contacted at aestheticeducators@gmail.com.

It is easier to maintain an acidic environment with water-in-oil (W/O) formulations because of prolonged skin hydrating effects and a slower the release of H + than oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion. Hydroxy Acids, particularly lactic acid is known to increase ceramides produced by keratinocytes. We are talking of small amounts in the product, not in the percentage of causing a peeling action. Even glycolic acid had moisturising properties, but at lower levels. Just because the product has an AHA, BHA in it, might not mean the total product is acidic and fatty acids are frequently more acid than lipid. Also remember that you might see something 'acid' as an ingredient, however this might be to make the product more acidic (decreasing the alkalinity of the ingredients) or may be there as part of the preservative function. The magic of cosmetic chemistry can make almost anything happen. Unfortunately, the pH of available topical over the counter prescription products is almost entirely unknown. In addition, the complex chemical formulation of most products will make it difficult to predict irritant potential based on pH alone. Don't blindly recommend or use 'pH balanced' products unless you know what actually is it balanced to– my usual repose to the 'pH balanced' claim is “Balanced to what?” – don't assume it is the skin. As always, you need to know what your client is using at home – this could be working in opposition to what you and the client wants to

References Ali, S. M. and Yosipovitch, G. (2013). Skin pH: From Basic Science to Basic Skin Care. Acta Dermato-Venereologica.93. pp261–267. Ekholm, E. Brattsand, M. Egelrud, T. (2000). Stratum corneum tryptic enzyme in normal epidermis: A missing link in the desquamation process? Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 114. pp56–63. Elias, P. M. (2015). Stratum corneum acidification: how and why? Experimental Dermatology. 24. 3. pp179–180. Gunathilake, R.Schurer, N. Y. Shoo, B. A. Celli, A. Hachem, J.P. Crumrine, D. et al. (2009). pH-regulated mechanisms account for pigment-type differences in epidermal barrier function. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 129.pp1719–1729. Hardin, C. R. and Rawlings, A. V. (2005). Effects of Natural Moisturizing Factor and Lactic Acid Isomers on Skin Function. Dry Skin and Moisturizers: Chemistry and Function.CRC Press. McAleer, M. A. Irvine, A. D. (2013). The multifunctional role of filaggrin in allergic skin disease. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology. 131. 2. pp280-291. Thornfeldt. C. R. (2000). Critical and Optimal Molar Rations of Key Lipids. M Loden and H. Maibach. (eds). Dry Skin and Moisturizers. CRC Pre Sakai, S. et al. (2000). Hyaluronan exists in the normal stratum corneum. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 114. 1184. pp337-347. Pienimaki, J. et al. (2201). Epidermal growth factor activates hyaluronan synthase 2 in epidermal keratinocytes and increases pericellular and intracellular hyaluronan. Journal of Biological Chemistry. 276. 23. pp20428-20435.

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salonbusiness

How to Become a Great Team Leader by Caroline Nelson

Every business owner aspires to have a happy and productive. However, leadership requires special skills as you change your role from practitioner to team leader.Caroline Nelson present shares some trade secrets on how to achieve the winning team. Let's be brutally honest it's not easy being a leader. And contrary to popular belief great leaders aren't born, instead they are shaped over time by discipline, hard work and a commitment to improvement. The good news is any job can be fast tracked if you have the guidance of simple basic actionable techniques or blue-prints. You will note that I said “Leader” not a “Boss”. And there is a considerable difference between the two, and a huge difference between the outcomes each can achieve with their team. Now you may be slightly confused between the two terms because they are often used interchangeably. An easy definition would be a leader encourages and inspires performance from the front, whereas a boss pushes his team from behind. What I will clearly demonstrate is it's much harder to be a boss than it is to be a leader. From my experience working with hundreds of salon owners, it is the leaders whose businesses generate the highest average clients spend, have the highest rebooking rates, and sell the most upgrades and retail. And in fact, also have the best staff retention rates. Why because they not only encourage and inspire their team but they also provide all the tools and skills each individual team member needs to reach their “personal best”. Remember not all employees will be “stars”, but they can all be the best they possibly can be, and if you have them achieving at this level your business will be profitable.

Of course occasionally there will be an employee who doesn't want to put the effort into reaching their possible best, often a boss will try pushing and pushing making life difficult for both themselves and the employee. This is what many bosses find the most frustrating part of managing, it's like pushing a huge boulder up a very steep hill, it's exhausting, time consuming, and generally delivers little, or no improvement. In fact, often the employee is so resistant they become a saboteur of the business wreaking havoc and undermining the boss when and wherever possible. A leader on the other hand, who provides the necessary training, coaching, and encouragement will quickly recognise if and when an employee is not suited for the position nor committed to improvement. At this point a leader will wish the employee well and allow them to move on and seek a position elsewhere, one more suited to their level of commitment and where they'll be happier. And above all a leader has the maturity to regulate emotions and does not allow themselves to over-react or lose their cool. Another issue that sets the two management styles apart is that a boss tend to think in terms of ‘I’, where a leader thinks in terms of ‘We’, the group, or team as a whole. A leader will dive in and get their hands dirty, but will also know when to step back, delegate, and allow others to shine. They have the essential attitude that shows the team “we can

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do it”, igniting energy into any given situation and pull everyone along in their slip-stream, and making it easier for all to achieve. This energy fires up a team and allows them to recognize opportunities and possibilities, an essential ingredient needed to reaching high sales levels.

8. Leaders are passionate visionaries, they have a very clear picture of where they want their business to go, and have a firm understanding of what success looks like and what needs to be done to achieve it. But having the vision is only one part of the equation, being able to articulate it to the team is a whole different ball game. Communicate is the key, and clear guideline supported by direct actions, will also help to lead teams towards the goals.

10 Top Leadership Qualities and Action: 10. 1.

Learn to Listen respectfully – always listen to your team, regardless of what they have to say, even if you don't like what you hear. Be open to possibilities of change and improvement. Talk less and listen more. Above all be fair, because respect is earned and it's a two-way street. Always be a Shining Example – for your team in all ways because they will emulate both your positive and negative traits. Be Consistent – your team needs to be able to rely on you and your word. If they know what to expect they will be able to perform up to expectations. Be Decisive – you're the decision maker your team looks up too so don't procrastinate, and once a decision is made don't waver be firm. Be Passionate and Energetic – passion is contagious and energy is motivating combined they will inspire your team great things. Think deeply and Research thoroughly – you're the Leader and your decisions whether they are right or wrong

will affect your team on many levels so make sure you do your homework before making a decision. Choose your team Wisely – make sure they will add-value to your business and will get along with others in a respectful manner. Prioritize your team – give them all the learning, skills, and tools they need to succeed. Be bountiful with encouragement, praise, and create a rewards/incentive program that inspires and focuses them to achieve. Be Open to new concepts and opportunities while still maintaining flexibility – never stop learning and improving. Be prepared to change and/or transform methods if or when required. And if something isn't working after you've given it a good shot act quickly to change or delete it. Flexibility is the key. Practice good Time Management – be productive with your time by planning your day and keeping track of what has been achieved. And stay focused on priorities and the actions necessary for you to reach your goals.

As I mentioned earlier in this article, it's not easy being a leader, but if you follow these guidelines, keep focused, trust your instincts, and keep your Vision front and centre, eventually your efforts will be rewarded and you will have the positive team culture both you and your business deserve. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2017 Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specializes in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottomline profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 0410600440.

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industrialrelations

THEFT IN THE WORKPLACE

Steps for prevention and your obligation by the law

by Tina Viney WHILE it is not a frequent occurrence, from time-to-time we do receive calls at APAN from distressed business owners who are suspecting that a staff member is stealing from them and seek advice on how to go about it. As a rule, at this stage the business owner is highly stressed and often in a panic, as this occurrence can be very disturbing. As they say, prevention is better than cure and indeed there are many steps that can be taken to prevent, or at the very least, minimise the possibility of employee theft. But first let's have a look at what are the most common areas that theft can occur in the workplace within our industry and then consider some steps that can be taken to protect the business:

INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY By far the most common area of theft in our industry is the business's

intellectual property. For example, the clients' database and the clients' confidential information. For this reason this is one of the most important areas you will need to include in your HR Policies and Procedures. Remember to protect not just your database, but also all intellectual property developed by the employees during their employment with your business, including inventions and systems made in the performance of their duties related in any way to how the business is run, or operated must remain the property of your business. If you have paid them to do it, it then becomes your property. While employees may be given access to confidential information, database, business property, keys to premises, or any other related property, or information in the performance of their duties, these must

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be protected and used only in the interests of your business. All client information including database is the property of the business and must not be removed or accessed for private use. Employees must not: ! Disclose, or use any part of any confidential information outside of the performance of their duties and in the interests of business; or ! Authorise, or be involved in the improper use, or disclosure of confidential information; during, or after their employment without the employer's written consent, other than as required by law. ! They must not contact clients for personal gain, or services that would conflict with the business's interest.

STAFF SELECTION Women often hae a strong intuition when meeting people. When interviewing potential employees, while it is imperative to do a thorough check on their previous employment records, do not underestimate any gut feeling you may have. Look for honesty and integrity in their body language and in the way they respond to your questions. Phone previous employers for a confidential and thorough investigation on their character and habits. One question to ask is "is there anything I need to be aware of if I employ this person? "What are their strengths and weaknesses?" It is amazing what you can discover. Make the effort to phone and speak to a past employer, don't just look at a good resume that may have been professionally prepared. Interesting enough studies reveal that employees who steal typically have worked at a business for several years before starting to steal and continue for an average of three years before they get caught. That's a lot of time to generate losses for the business.

Here are some things you can do: 1. Know your employees. Be alert to key indicators of potential theft such as: ! Sudden, apparent devotion to work and working late. ! Lifestyles well above salary levels.

! ! ! !

Strong objections to procedural changes related to financial, inventory or supply matters. Drugs and alcohol abuse. Moonlighting with materials available at the business. Evidence of compulsive gambling, persistent borrowing, or bad check writing.

This is why conducting a background checks on potential employees is so important, particularly if your employee will be entrusted with handling your money, or financial records. 2. Supervise employees closely. Not surprisingly, studies show that when supervision is lax, theft and fraud rates go up. This doesn't mean looking over their shoulder every minute. But it does mean checking what they do. It's also wise to have more than one person looking out for your money. 3. Control cash receipts. Use serially pre-numbered sales slips and conduct weekly audits. Balancing of sales slips and register receipts should be signed off by at least two people. 4. Use informal audits. Make unannounced internal audits and have a yearly audit performed by an outside individual or company. 5. Install computer security measures. Understand your computer systems and software, and how they might be used to divert money or inventory. Restrict access to computer terminals and records. Periodically change entry codes and check regularly to ensure that security procedures are in effect. 6. Manage inventory and use security systems. Separate receiving and store keeping functions. Physical inventories should be done annually by individuals who are not responsible for inventory records. Some businesses also install security devices to monitor merchandise or inventory. 7. Stocktaking. Stocktaking should be completed every three months and signed off by two people that have witnessed the stocktake and can be trusted. Skincare stock is also another item that is high on the theft list. Don't leave product stocktaking unchecked for

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12 months. Schedule stocktaking are various intervals throughout the year.

grounds for action against the business. Note also that you cannot force employees to incriminate themselves.

8. Beware of accounts receivable. Record client payments that are made by cash and ensure that you balance your books every day if you have several transaction that are paid by cash.

Conducting the investigation When planning an investigation, determine the extent or even the existence of a loss.

9. Petty Cash records. Ensure that all petty cash transaction are recorded and supported by receipts.

The goal of any investigation should be to obtain actual proof that theft has occurred. Do not consider situations that are not backed up by evidence and followed through to the end. A seemingly clear-cut case of employee dishonesty may actually be the result of a well thought out conspiracy among several employees or it may be a complete misunderstanding due to failures in internal procedures.

10. Provide a way for employees to report theft or fraud by coworkers. This needs to be done carefully to avoid signalling that you don't trust employees. This method can be very effective. When working within a salon or clinic employees are often on their own. Although theft of property and money from the workplace by employees may be a widespread problem, it is hard to provide definitive guidelines on how to handle the matter. It is necessary to consider the individual circumstances of each case, which may include:

! ! ! !

The gravity of the theft, the frequency of theft Its potential impact on your business The extent of proof available The employee's past record, how instances of theft have been handled in the past and whether the police or other authorities become involved.

For example, an staff member may have stolen a few items of cosmetic samples might only justify receiving a warning in the first instance, but if a manager who has access to large sums of money of company funds defrauds the employer, summary dismissal would usually be justified.

BASIC RULES It is advisable however, to set out some basic rules for investigating theft at the workplace: There needs to be a sound investigation procedure that does not place the business at risk, eg of a defamation or unfair dismissal claim. Act only on the basis of firm evidence. This may include statements by witnesses, cash register and other financial records, video surveillance tapes, etc. You must be able to prove that theft has occurred, not suspect that it has occurred. The normal standards of proof applicable to court cases apply. You cannot expect a tribunal or court to make inferences from an employee's conduct that theft occurred.

While it may be useful in some situations to use trained security guards, you need to ensure that they follow the same procedures as above. Consider the legal implications As the process of confirming and documenting proof of theft proceeds, consider how the offence relates to the law. This is important because you will be able to gather information that will assist in prosecution. If your evidence is enough to prosecute, consider ending the investigation. Continuing will cost the business time and money, so unless the offence warrants further investigation, draw conclusions and notify the relevant authorities, eg police. Again, it is important to emphasise that you must have earlier made it clear to all employees that theft is prohibited and that the consequences of it may include dismissal and notification of relevant authorities. This must be included in your HR Policies and Procedures. The employee and the employer must sign the HR Policies and Procedures document and each party retain a copy. In the event of an incident attention must be drawn to the signed policies to which they agreed. Collecting further evidence If you decide to continue your investigation, then being wellorganised is the key, so that any gathered evidence or statements are more likely to be admissible in a court. In addition, it will reduce the risk of others in the business finding out and drawing their own conclusions. If investigations are disorganised and draw in non-essential staff, the integrity of the investigation will be placed at risk.

Don't 'set employees up' with contrived tests that seek to catch employees in the act of stealing, such as 'dummy' customers.

Once an initial fact-finding investigation has taken place and suspects are identified, it is important to assign appropriate people to monitor the employee(s). If these people are other employees, they need to be genuinely 'neutral'.

In such cases, employees may behave in the way you are expecting them to, but tribunals often dismiss such 'evidence' as 'amateur sleuthing' if it is not backed up with other evidence.

Again, you need to avoid accusations of entrapment or a set-up. These steps allow for an orderly process to take place, and will assist in protecting the interests of the business.

In general, the employee must be aware that the type of theft is prohibited and will lead to consequences if it occurs. This can be communicated via the initial employment letter or contract, company policies, past warnings and notification that surveillance of employees will occur.

At all times, keep written documentation concerning the theft of property by an employee, including: the time and date; property missing; who had access; and any other relevant circumstances.

If an employee appears to be acting suspiciously, question them about his or her actions at the time. Don't let him or her steal something, then make accusations later. Nor should you just suspect a theft without investigating the matter. If you take action and the employee's explanation later is plausible, or cannot be proven to be false or implausible, the employee may have

Consider possible alternative explanations, such as defects in inventory control systems, policies that allow use of company property 'off-site', etc. Questioning employees suspected of theft There are certain rules with which you need to comply when interviewing an employee suspected of theft. These rules protect employees' civil liberties.

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Employers may ask any employees questions in relation to an incident as part of information gathering. However, if an employer has reasonable grounds to suspect a specific employee of misconduct, then the employer must have the employee's consent before proceeding with questioning. Employers must inform employees of their rights before an interview. These include the right to a witness and the right to remain silent. During an interview regarding an alleged theft, an employee does not have to admit to committing the theft even if he or she did so. Nor is the employee obliged to inform his or her employer about the involvement of any other employees. Admissions made during questioning should be made voluntarily and not as a result of threats or intimidation. The witness can also verify whether a confession was provided voluntarily or under duress. The employee's witness may be a union representative, a legal representative or another employee. The employer may object to the employee's witness on the ground that the employer may also wish to question that person in relation to the incident. As with all performance-related interviews, keep a detailed record of what took place at the interview. You could consider asking the employee and any witnesses to sign copies of the interview record. Advise the employee what action will follow the interview, eg further investigations, notification of authorities, disciplinary action, dismissal, etc. Using the right approach A case against an employee may fail if the employer has been inconsistent in its treatment of employees. In particular, if thefts by other employees in the past have been condoned or punished with no more than a 'slap on the wrist', an employee who is dismissed for a similar theft may be able to argue that he/she was treated unfairly. Be careful when dealing with an employee you might be keen (for

other reasons) to remove from your organisation - an investigation must not turn into a witch-hunt. Also be consistent in terms of the employee's status. The fact that an employee is a senior manager does not entitle him or her to more or less favourable treatment in a case of theft to any other employee. Indeed, some evidence suggests that perception of the behaviour of senior management employees strongly influences the attitudes and behaviour of many lower-level employees in relation to issues such as theft.

IN CONCLUSION Because theft is considered a offense that can warrant dismissal, there are strict guidelines that must be following so that you comply with the law. The above recommendations broadly define the formal guidelines. APAN has several documents to assist members to comply with the Fairwork Act include HR Policies and Procedure template, Workplace Agreements, letters of warning and letters of dismissal, as well as record keeping documentation to enable businesses to run the industrial relations side of their business efficient. We also have interviewing documents with specific questions to enable businesses to ask the appropriate questions when seeking for specific attributes from a potential employee. These have been written by highly skilled HR experts. Additionally, members can access one-to-one consultations to gain advice for their individual cases.

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If you require further information please contact APAN and speak to a consultant Phone 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com

APJ 41

socialmedia

Digital Marketing and Why it's Important for your Business by Trish Hammond Director of Plastic Surgery Hub Unless you are living under a mushroom, you know that we are living in a digital age where information is delivered and consumed mostly over electronic devices powered by the internet. This gives rise to a new method of reaching out and promoting products and services to people, a special branch in the art of marketing is simply called “digital marketing”. In a nutshell, digital marketing is any promotion or public relations that utilise any digital platforms such as computers, the internet, mobile devices, tablets, etc. Examples of these are: websites, banner advertisements, social media posts, or mentions, viral videos, and the like. In contrast, traditional marketing involves tangible materials such as billboards, print ads, brochures, posters, business cards as well as non-tangible ones such as TV and radio advertising and commercials. The relatively recent emergence of digital marketing can only mean one thing – it offers something new and better. As a business owner here are just some of its advantages and why you need to ensure you are capitalising on it: 1. LOW COST Business is really all about reducing expenses and maximising returns. How much would it cost you to post a promotional poster on Facebook. Other than your electricity and internet connection fees, and a small and optional premium charges, if you wish for it to reach an even wider audience, it's completely free (at least at the moment). Now compare that to what it would cost to put up a huge billboard or poster at a prime location. 2. INSTANTLY MEASURABLE RESULTS Those YouTube video views or number of Instagram followers are not just there for bragging, it's an instantaneous type of feedback about the effectiveness of your marketing campaign. Even data such as website visits, click throughs, email opens and reading behaviour of your visitors is available for analysis using online tools such as Google Analytics – and you can use them for free! If traditional marketing had the same capability, you'd know exactly how many people saw your billboard, how many of them simply glimpsed at it and how many actually looked at it (and for how long), which heading, section or part of the billboard design caught their attention, and you'd also know whether they bought into its message and how they acted on it. 3. INSTANTLY IMPROVE MARKETING STRATEGIES THAT AREN'T WORKING Since you can get immediate feedback on the effects of your online marketing strategy, you'll know whether it's working or not, and the best part is – you can make adjustments as you go! You won't have to wait for a noticeable improvement or decline in your sales and customers to appreciate the effects of your campaign. This saves you significant time (and resources). 4. IT EVENS OUT THE PLAYING FIELD Thanks in part of the significantly lower cost of digital marketing; the marketing strategy of smaller businesses can now compete on par with that of the bigger companies. With traditional marketing, bigger

budgets for larger billboards and longer TV airtime trump all others. In online marketing however, high quality and content is king. 5. WORLDWIDE EXPOSURE AT THE CLICK OF A BUTTON Content uploaded to the internet is immediately available all around the world, whereas a poster is available only to people-to-people that see it wherever it's located. The reach of radio or TV networks is usually limited to its locality as well, but that's changing. Even if your target audience is not necessarily global, you never know where a potential client might be. Knowing you can market to people, even in the most unexpected locations is pretty darn good. 6. THE CHANCE TO GO VIRAL If you are able to come up with content that goes viral on the internet, be it a video clip, a meme, or a photograph, your brand is guaranteed to be ingrained into the minds of your target audience for a very long time. Your marketing content will spread itself all over the world without any effort from you. There are so many stories of 'overnight successes' from a video going viral on YouTube – you just never know. 7. BETTER MARKET RECEPTION DUE TO ITS NON-INTRUSIVENESS Ever notice how banner advertisements on websites you visit seem to always be for things that you are interested in? You won't see ads for hats when you are only interested in shoes. Google and Facebook have complex algorithms that determine your likes and preferences and show you only the content related to it. Nowadays, most people don't like receiving direct sales calls or junk mail for random things they might not be interested in. This is just one of the great things intrinsic to online marketing and something that comes highly appreciated, and could definitely cultivate a more positive image for your brand. 8. CLIENT ENGAGEMENT AND INTERACTION This is another thing that is impossible with traditional marketing. The fluidity of digital marketing allows you to give and immediate response and interact with your target audience. Clickable links make it easy to like, share, follow, visit your website, rate your services and buy. These interactive CTA (call to action) make a more engaging experience and help develop your client's personal connection to your company and your brand. With the web, simply creating and publishing your website is not enough to drive business to you if you want it to be searched for and seen. This is where the advantages of doing some digital marketing will come into play. If you need help with digital marketing in your business please contact me email trish@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au Ph: 0429 264 811 www.plasticsurgeryhub.com.au

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ORK

CTITIO NE PRA

Pullman Hotel, Albert Park â&#x20AC;&#x201C; September 24

AESTHETIC

APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE MELBOURNE VISORY NE

Get ready for an amazing program Following our last successful conference in 2015 in Melbourne, APAN once again is staging another power-packed conference program at the same venue on September 24 at the Pullman Hotel. The focus is to empower practitioners and business owners on the latest development covering scientific advances, technology, business, trends, regulations and anti-ageing. Please review the program and join us for a full day of education, learning and networking. The event also features a small exhibition, glorious food and prizes to be won. Staying up-to-date with industry advances has never been easier. REGISTRATION is at 8.00am for a 9.00am start.

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TOPIC: MECHANISM AND ACTIONS OF LED, IPL AND LASERS SPEAKER: Trevor Neale, Director of Australian Aesthetics Devices TIME: 9.00am - 9.45am Strongly supported by credible research, light-based technologies have become imperative for any salon, or clinic that is offering advanced skin rejuvenation, antiageing, slimming and hair removal services. As the modalities of choice these technologies have proven efficacy in delivering reliable, consistent results for skin and body treatments. However, while many have trained in the individual use of these devices there is often uncertainty as to how to integrate them in sequence to achieve the best possible treatment outcomes.

for your future. Often we can be so focused and busy working in the business or even on the business that we miss important changes that could tip the industry and change it. With new innovative technologies entering the industry the perimeters of practice are also changing in the aesthetics industry. This lecture will uncover new advances and help you gain an better understanding of the role of education and regulations and the emerging new trends in regenerative and integrative aesthetics. Tina Viney is a foremost expert in the area of global trends, industry standards and regulations. She is a passionate advocate who pursues initiatives that best support and protect the industry’s on-going sustainability. This lecture will provide you with important industry intelligence that will have you better position yourself for success now and into the future.

Trevor Neale holds qualifications in engineering, laser and light-based technologies. He is also a qualified trainer and In this lecture you will learn: Redefined treatment perimeters in aesthetics wrote the original unit in lasers for the Bachelors Degree in ! APAN's evolving role in the industry Dermal Sciences for Victoria University. Trevor will present ! ! New developments in the regulatory space in this lecture a comprehensive overview of light-based ! How can you best position yourself for the future therapies and the correct order for integrating them to maximise your clinical outcomes. Networking Break 11.00am - 11.30am In this lecture you will learn: How to gain best results from the inflammatory response Various colours within LED and their significance The mechanisms and actions of the various technologies and how they impact the skin and body ! The most effective way to sequence your treatments for best results.

! ! !

Networking Break 9.45am - 10.15am (morning tea) TOPIC: THE EMERGING CHANGES IN AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS SPEAKER:Tina Viney CEO, APAN TIME: 10.15am - 11.00am

TOPIC: PRACTICE SUCCESS SPEAKER: Don Farnden TIME: 11.30am-12.15pm When it comes to business success there's a way of thinking, and there's a way of doing all things "business". It's a mindset best described by looking at the word BEHAVE. How you will "be" is directly associated with what you "have". If you're not achieving the results you would like then you need to look at how you are inside as it is all connected.

Don Farnden is renowned as one of Australia’s most respected Small Business Gurus. He is considered as a Master of boosting business and acknowledged as a unique and Why are industry changes important distinctive expert in the fields of small business development to you as a professional and even techniques, performance enhancement, and in maximising the more important as a business owner? business owner’s most precious asset – TIME as well as their Knowing what is happening and what lays ahead will allow personal performance. In his lecture Practice Success, Don you to make sound decision that will ensure a stronger position will bring clarity by uncovering what you need to know to

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achieve and gain both business success and growth.

In this lecture you will learn: ! Identification of various types of skin cancers ! Origins and manifestations of other lesions In this lecture you will learn: ! How to gain a comprehensive understanding of the Full ! Your duty of care and when not to treat ! Effective strategies for medical referrals Spectrum Business Model ! Gain the knowledge of how to get results through organisation and accountability NETWORKING BREAK 3.15pm - 3.45pm ! Learn how to systemise everything for best results ! Achieve better clarity on YOU and the work you do T O P I C : N E W A D VA N C E S I N COSMETIC MEDICINE LUNCH AND NETWORKING BREAK 12.15PM - 1.15PM SPEAKER: Dr Zac Turner TIME: 3.45PM - 4.30PM TOPIC: SYMPTOMS OF HORMONE IMBALANCE AND SOLUTIONS Constantly evolving and changing SPEAKER: Sinan Ali BSc, PhD cosmetic enhancement procedures TIME: 1.15pm - 2.00pm are becoming even more exciting as new innovative modalities are allowing practitioners to We know that hormones play a key achieve beautiful, youthful and natural results. Meanwhile the role in health and well-being as well new era of collaboration between aesthetics practices and as in skin health, however, there are cosmetic medicine is moving beyond just injectables to also many lifestyle and environmental factors that contribute embrace new frontiers in peptide technologies as well as to compromised wellbeing and skin health. cosmetic formulations that offer greater promise. Professor Sinan Ali is an Associate Dean with the Scentia Education Group. Familiar with the aesthetics industry and passionate about helping aestheticians benefit from a scientific perspective on how they address the skin and body. IProfessor Ali will discuss in this lecture the role of hormones in skin health, factors that contribute to hormonal imbalance and ways that you can support the body with preventative measure. He will also discuss the role of skincare in supporting better health.

Dr Zac Turner is a new-generation cosmetic physician who is increasingly attracting media attention through his unique artistic style of gentle and progressive enhancing strategies that go beyond just lines and wrinkles. In this lecture he will share advances in cosmetic medicine and the new approach to appearance enhancement and better health.

In this lecture you will learn: ! Evolving techniques in appearance enhancement and why consumers cannot get enough of them In this lecture you will learn: ! New frontiers in appearance medicine that also address ! Why hormone imbalance occurs health and wellbeing ! How hormones effect moods ! Why consumers are seeking both natural results as well ! Lifestyle strategies to help improve hormone health and as greater wellness solutions support skin health ! Aesthetic practices and cosmetic medicine interfacing ! The role of skincare ingredients on the endocrine system NETWORKING BREAK 2.00PM- 2.30PM

TOPIC: IDENTIFYING SUSPECT LESIONS SPEAKER: Gay Wardle, MasterDerm Academy TIME: 2.30pm - 3.15pm

Pullman at Albert Park is part of the international Le Club Accor Hotel and maintains a high standard of presentation, service and guest experience. Located at the heart of Melbourne at 65 Queens Rd, Albert Park it is the perfect venue to take a break, enjoy a holiday, while gaining valuable industry information to make your professional journey smoother.

As the on-going development of medical-grade technologies are allowing us to move into more advanced treatment outcomes so progressively we will encounter suspect lesions on a more regular basis. Cancer lesions for examples, can be quite If you wish to book your accommodation please contact 1800 misleading. In this lecture you will learn how to identify 633 888. You can either book your accommodation with the suspect lesions both cancer and other skin manifestations that Pullman or at a slightly lesser rate with the Mercure which is warrant further investigation. linked to same building. Let them know you are attending the Gay Wardle is a highly qualified and respected lecturer and APAN Aesthetics Conference for your special rate. trainer. In this lecture she will present suspect skin manifestation, treatment options and when a medical referral To register for the conference please visit apanetwork.com and view the conference program on-line. Scroll to the bottom and is imperative. click on the registration button and complete. This is a secure site and will come directly back to us.

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Australian made and owned PERSONALISED SKINCARE

APAN MEMBERS

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0430 582 508 donna@sentryca.com.au

supercritical extracted natural medicinal plants sourced from our Gardens of Excellence.

The APAN Members 30% discount will apply to all DERMATONICS® products until 8th Oct 2017. Costs relating to delivery services will be charged at the full rate as normal.

starperformer

Reaching a new level of treatment efficacy

THE DERMATRONICS STORY An interview with Dr Donna Marcal DERMATRONICS is a new-generation skincare range with a strong commitment, not just to purity and sustainability, but also an end product that can deliver excellent bioavailability for impressive clinical results. It utilised unique biotechnology and is classified as Nutridermaceutical TM . We spoke with Dr Donna Marcal, one of the formulators of Dermatronics to uncover some of the unique features of this amazing product range.

In this quest we discovered some incredible ingredients, as well as a new innovative extraction method that has never been used before in cosmetic formulations that safeguarded and ensured the important objective of purity and efficacy of the active ingredients. These incredible discoveries let to formulate the Dermatronics skincare, which we developed as a joint venture with our partners in Indonesia.

Dr Donna Marcal APJ Q1: DONNA, PLEASE SHARE WITH US YOUR While it is true that organic BACKGROUND AND WHAT BOUGHT ABOUT THE BIRTH ingredients deliver higher levels of nutrients, the surrounding OF DERMATRONICS? environment that plants are grown and the method of extraction can Both my husband and I are scientists â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I have a PhD in biochemistry and my husband Helder Marcal has a PhD in biomedical engineering and tissue engineering technologies, specialising in stem-cell regenerative medicine therapeutics. We have over 10 years experience in skincare and have been involved in improving skincare formulations for various companies through new advances in technology. We have a passion for purity and natural ingredients, as well as ensuring the actives can deliver a high level of skin penetration and efficacy.

often compromise the level of purity of the active ingredient. We therefore, introduced for the first time in skincare, a new method of harvesting and purification of the actives through a process known as Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE) technology. This allows us to ensure a higher level of super pure active concentration that is superior to just being organic. Also through our Garden's of Excellence our plants used in our products are grown and cultivated with care to ensure very high purity of the active constituents. Our products are therefore classified and trademarked as Nutridermaceuticals TM â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a world first classification.

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APJ Q2. CAN YOU SHARE WITH US SOME OF YOUR CONCERNS ABOUT CURRENT COSMETIC INGREDIENTS AND THEIR TOXICITY AND SAFETY LEVELS? With the advances in skincare technology, ingredients have better penetration pathways and for this reason consumers are progressively become more inquisitive and concern about ingredient safety. There is also a growing preference in skincare formulations that are based on biotechnology that focuses on harnessing natural herbal actives rather than unknown, synthetic ingredients. The issue of a preservation of a formula is also a concern, parabens, sulphates and phenoxyethanol for example are considered questionable ingredients when used in cosmetic formulations. I understand that there are several schools of thought about their safety and whether they are actually questionable or not. The issue is that consumers are seeking alternatives and as there are alternative solutions for effective stability and preservation of a skincare formula, we have chosen to take that path. Our position is that we follow the European Cosmetics Regulations guidelines as we believe they reflect the highest standard of safety. By the way, the preservative that we use in our product is Potassium Sorbate, which is a food grade preservative and is considered effective and very safe.

APJ Q3. WHAT IS THE PRODUCTS COMPETITIVE ADVANTAGE? The Dermatronics skincare has several competitive advantages. It is an Australian-made natural product with multiple actives working together to restore the skin to optimal clarity and vitality. The ingredients are scientifically validated for the purity and their capacity to penetrate the skin. The ingredients are harvested and purified using Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE) technology, which is a first for the skincare industry. Furthermore, it is a small, yet highly effective range that gives clients great results without the need for multiple products. The products are beautifully presented and cost-effective for consumers, and offer value for money, with a healthy mark-up that businesses can also benefit.

Curcuma family is well-known for its benefits. Curcuma xanthorrhiza is exclusive to Dermatonics and found in no other skincare product. Many of our ingredients are grown in our Gardens of Excellence to ensure the utmost purity and protection from environmental pollution. Mauritia Flexuosa (Buriti Fruit Extract): This ingredient is found in Dermatonics Beauty Elixir – this is also grown in our Gardens of Excellence in the state of Acre deep in the Amazon rainforest of Brazil. It greatly helps skin to regenerate as it contains high levels of vitamin C, oleic acid, tocopherols and beta-carotene (which readily converts to vitamin A). Arnica Montana Extract: Found in Dermatonics Rejuvenating Moisturiser, Clearskin and Curascar – this is one of our ingredients purified by SFE technology. It is well-known for dissipating skin bruising, but also has anti-acne and antibiotic properties. Calendula officinalis extract: Found in Dermatonics Revitalising Eye Cream, Hand & Body Nutrition, Clearskin and Curascar – an SFE purified ingredient, it is used for its anti-inflammatory, would healing and anti-acne properties. Calycophyllum Spruceanum (Mulateiro stem cell extract): Found in Beauty Elixir, Clearskin and Curascar – this ingredient is unique to Dermatonics. It is used extensively by tribes in the Amazon rainforest to treat wounds and for its anti-ageing benefits. It is also considered to have antifungal, antibacterial properties and may help minimise acne breakouts. N-acetyl cysteine: This is an amazing ingredient found in Beauty Elixir, Brightening Essence, Revitalising Eye Cream, Hand and Body Nutrition, Curascar and Clearskin Emblica: For enhancing skin brightness and clarity you can't go passed Emblica, found in Dermatonics Brightening Essence – is considered an overall rejuvenation tonic. It is used for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties and is known to be skin brightening.

APJ Q4. WHAT CAN A CLINIC EXPECT FROM YOUR Cupuacu Butter: Found in Dermatonics Beauty Elixir, Rejuvenating Moisturiser, Brightening Essence, Revitalising Eye PRODUCT IN TERMS OF RESULTS? In our experience and from our feedback, within two weeks clients can expect to see an improvement in skin hydration levels, skin texture and also an improvement in fine lines and wrinkles.

Cream, Hand and Body Nutrition and Dermatonics Curascar. This is an ingredient that we use as a base in addition to Shea butter. It has a high capacity for water absorption giving it superior moisturising properties. It also contains phytosterols that help regulate the balance and activity of lipids in the epidermis.

APJ Q5. CAN YOUR SKINCARE BE INCORPORATED WITH EQUIPMENT TECHNOLOGY SUCH AS LASER, IPL OR APJ7. WHAT CAN A BUSINESS EXPECT FROM YOUR LED TREATMENTS TO IMPROVE CLINICAL OUTCOMES? COMPANY? Most definitely. Dermatronics Skincare used post-laser, or microdermabrasion offers wonderful skin support and enhances postclinical results. The Dermatronics Curascar product is also a wonderful recovery product. While I am not a strong advocate of Botox, we are finding that using our products post-injectables, allows these treatments to last longer and even improve the results.

APJ Q6. WHAT ARE SOME OF THE UNIQUE KEY ACTIVES THAT YOUR PRODUCT CONTAINS?

The advantages for clinics, or salons using our products is that they have the opportunity to meet with the formulators and product developers, which is quite a unique experience and a rewarding one. We offer one-on-one training and educate our clients on how to effectively combine the products for maximum clinical efficacy. The range is niche and manageable. Dermatronics' objective is to ensure that our skincare range delivers notable anti-ageing and antiinflammatory benefits with the range aimed predominantly for the 25-65 age bracket that can benefit from increased hydration, improved skin tone and enhanced rejuvenation benefits.

We use some amazing and very unique ingredients that have clinically-proven efficacy on skin improvement. Here are just a few: Curcuma xanthorrhiza (Javanese tumeric): This is an incredible ingredient, which you will find in the Dermatonics Rejuventating Moisturiser and Dermatonics Curascar. This is grown in our Gardens of Excellence in the Java region of Indonesia and is harvested and purified using Supercritical Fluid Extraction (SFE) technology. The

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For further information on Dermatronics Skincare or to speak with Dr Donna Marcal please phone 0430 582 508 or email donna@sentryca.com.au

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starperformer

BeautyPay â&#x20AC;&#x201C; A payment solution designed for beauty clinics and aesthetic clinics PAYMENT solutions that are tailored to specific industries are helping businesses grow and save time and cost on administration. APJ looks at BeautyPay â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an exciting payment solution that is taking the Australian beauty and aesthetic industry by storm. And most importantly, fees are neutralised so there is no cost for the business, This is very exciting as most payment services have annual fee and fees per transaction that are charged to the business. BeautyPay offers a payment solution customised for beauty businesses and helps them stay at the forefront of payment technology BeautyPay was designed for beauty salons, cosmetic laser clinics, , medical clinics and home-based salons and can be used for all your treatment programs including: IPL treatments, massage and facial packages, brows/microblading, dermal fillers and anti-wrinkle injectables, laser and hair removal treatments, tattoo removal treatments, microdermabrasion treatments, LED light therapy, cosmetic tattooing and much more. After reviewing BeautyPay we can see that it is very easy to use and allows beauty clinics and salons to offer treatments and programs in a way that is affordable for all and easy to use.

HERE ARE THE BENEFITS OF INTRODUCING BEAUTYPAY TO YOUR BUSINESS: Helps businesses increase revenue and treatments BeautyPay provides clients with an alternative way to pay for their treatments. Clients are able to make weekly payments on their treatment program rather than a one off upfront payment. Easy to run reports including scheduled (future) revenue As a business owner you can run reports including a report on scheduled (future) revenue so you can see what revenue is scheduled through BeautyPay in the next week/month/quarter.

Fees are neutralised so there can be no cost for beauty clinic There is no cost for the business to use the service. It's free to use and very low cost to the clients. Recurring revenue Be paid on time and generate future and reliable revenue streams. Easy structure to set clients up It is quick and easy to setup your clients on BeautyPay. Help with cashflow management With a portion of your revenue coming in through recurring payment it can help you budget and manage cashflow. Professionally managed platform BeautyPay offers a professional payment platform to manage your payments so that you can focus on your business and customers. Interest free BeautyPay is simple and fast for your clients. As this is a direct debit service and not a credit service, there is no need for messy and confusing credit checks or application processes. Artificial Intelligence Following up clients for payment is the last thing you want to do. BeautyPay puts this work on autopilot with its Artificial Intelligence doing the follow up. BeautyPay also offers a mobile virtual terminal with no monthly terminal rental fees and the $10 Monthly fee is deleted after $500 in transactions, which is a great additional add on for businesses. We would recommend you having a look at BeautyPay to see how it could help you grow your business. Contact BeautyPay today! 1300 766 198 Email: info@beautypay.com.au | Web: www.beautypay.com.au

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Product Innovations Dermatonics® Brightening Essence Dermatonics® Brightening Essence is designed to nurture uneven skin and discoloration, restore smoothness, soften and promote more youthful and radiant skin. Helps reduce the skins from premature ageing due to sun damage, uneven tone and also acts as a blemish corrector. Assists in protection against environmental influences while soothing and softening the skin. This really is a potent moisturiser. Dermatonics® Brightening Essence amazing formula contains actives such as Glycyrrhizaglabra (liquorice extract) - a highly active whitening and brightening agent, effective in reducing hyperpigmentation. Astaxanthin – a potent antioxidant with proven ability to help boost and retain moisture. Emblica, an overall rejuvenation tonic with anti-inflammatory brightening properties. Additionally, Bilberry extract (Vacciniummyrtillus) has a high concentration of antioxidants and also known as a skin brightening agent. If you are looking for a highly active product that is natural-based, with amazing scientifically-proven botanicals, you cannot go past Dermatronics® and their unique formulas. Contact Dermatronics

today for further information. Email: donna@sentryca.com.au or phone 0430 582 508 and ask for your APAN members' discount.

Myo-Fix: Mimic Wrinkle Correction – MEDER Beauty Science New from MEDER Beauty Science is Myo-Fix - a new professional in-clinic treatment program delivering an effective, non-surgical, no-injectable treatment that will address the correction of fine lines and mimic wrinkles, as well deliver an impressive non-surgical eyebrow lift. The treatment is recommended for young individuals with expressive mimic lines, 30+ age group who are starting to see the signs of ageing, as well as women and men with mimic wrinkles and first fine lines. This treatment is also highly beneficial to individuals who are contraindicated for injectables, such as pregnant and nursing women. It is also an excellent treatment for patients in-between their injectibles as a supporting treatment to prevent mimic wrinkle from reappearing. This treatment includes innovative peptides that work in synergy, immobilising the mimic muscles only where necessary at their points of connection with the skin. High concentration of active ingredients combined with unique skin preparation protocol deliver stable and visible results. For further details contact Spectrum Science & Beauty Ph: 1300 766 198,

www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au Email: sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au

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Time to Breathe New Life into the “Must Have” for any Aesthetic Clinic Clairderm Skin Trio Microdermabrasion is a highly effective, non-surgical skin perfecting and hydrating system suitable for medical and aesthetic applications that will deliver truly amazing results! Clairderm Skin Trio, the proudly Australian made Microdermabrasion skin perfecting and hydrating system, offers a non-invasive, hygienic skin resurfacing and rejuvenation procedure that is quick, comfortable and effective. It's the preferred choice for medical and aesthetic clinics who want to achieve exceptional results. The success of the Chairderm Skin Trio Microdermabrasion is based on the fact that it combines three microdermabrasion modalities in one – Crystal, Diamond and Hydration. This gives the practitioner the flexibility to offer either a gentle, or more powerful skin resurfacing and rejuvenation procedure in the one treatment. The combination of its stylish slimline design and the high standard of engineering quality ensures superior results making it a “must have” for any clinic. Microdermabrasion increases microcirculation, brings nutrients to the skin and stimulates intense cellular renewal, greatly improving the appearance of all skin imperfections and preparing the skin for superior penetration (4-5 times) of active substances into the skin. To optimise and maintain treatment results it is recommended that a strict maintenance program is followed using a professional cosmeceutical skincare range, such as BeautyMed Dermo Cosmetics that offers reliable and highly effective professional home skincare solution.

For more information, contact Clairderm Medical Aesthetics on 07 5539 6868, or 130007 81239. Email:office@clairderm.com or visit www.medicalbeautyequipment.com.

Dermatonics® Beauty Elixir ticks all the boxes Consumers today have constantly higher expectations of their skincare. They look for products that tick all the boxes high performance with advanced delivery systems, but are also safe, and environmentally sustainable with a preference for natural ingredients and biotechnology. Enters the new-generation niche skincare product range from Dermatonics®. Take Beauty Elixir for instants – one of the most advanced age-defying formulas to help rejuvenate cellular repair, boost skin moisture and restore the skin's youthful appearance. This amazing formula contains some of the most advanced age-defying actives available, infused with medicinal plant extracts from the Amazon, such as cupuaçu butter,mulateiro extract and buriti fruit extract, pomegranate seed extract, acetyl cysteine and green tea extract. This wrinkle- refining, collagen boosting elixir is engineered to promote the renewal of your skin's vivacity based on adult skin stem cell research by our biomedical engineering team. In addition, many of the antioxidant plant extracts are super-pure and therefore more potent than the average product. They are extract using the supercritical fluid extraction method, which is a green technology that removes impurities, essentially providing ingredients that are even better than organic. Also unique to the Beauty Elixir is Ectoine, which protects the skin from sun damage and extreme dryness. Moroccan Argan fruit extract is unique to Beauty Elixir which is an excellent mositurising agent. The Nutridermaceuticals® in Dermatonics® Beauty Elixir have been proven to assist in collagen synthesis maintain elasticity, while protecting the skin from free-radical damage.

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Contact Dermatronics on email: donna@sentryca.com.au or phone 0430 582 508 and ask for your APAN members' discount.

APJ 53

skinscience

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Understanding what causes HYPER-KERATINISATION by Gay Wardle

Improving skin texture and rebalancing skin function is very much part of the objective of a dermal and aesthetic therapist. Various environmental and health conditions can contribute in compromising the integrity of the stratum corneum and this can challenge the penetration of actives, as well as the ability for the skin to improve. Therefore understanding what contributes to hyper-keratinisation disorders is an important consideration for every practitioner. In this article Gay Wardle reviewed this condition and contributing factors to help you gain a better understanding of the various conditions and how to address them. The keratinocyte cell has a very complex, orderly process of proliferation within the epidermis. We know this is a normal and natural process and must happen as it is part of the skin's barrier function. This desquamation process is done in such a way that the apical layer of the skin (corneum layer) does not appear rough and scaly to the naked eye. This balanced production keeps the skin healthy and the thickness of the corneum layer does not alter at all. However, if keratinisation or cell cohesion is abnormal, the corneum layer may become thick and the surface of the skin will become dry and scaly. This will impair the barrier function of the skin and progression will lead to excessive water loss from the skin. In this article I will be discussing skin disorders that are associated with hyper-keratinisation.

ICHTHYOSES The word itself comes from the Greek word for fish. With conditions of ichthyoses the skin presents as dry, rough and scaly. There is no noticeable inflammation attached. The scales do not overlap so the pattern is very distinct. It is a genetic disorder and is quite common affecting approximately one in every 250 people. In this condition, the filaggrin gene causes a reduction in profillaggrin, which is the major component of the natural moisture factor. Profillaggrin is cleaved to filaggrin, which in turn is responsible for aggregating keratin filaments in the cornified cell envelope. The break down and degradation of filaggrin has a huge affect on the natural moisture factor of the skin, hence the skin becomes incredibly scaly and dry. Although the dryness is usually mild, the scales are small and branny and are common on the limbs. Ichthyosis appears in a stubborn combination with atopic eczema as the mutations in the filaggrin gene are strong predisposing factors for atopic eczema. Usually this condition can be distinguished from less common types of icthyosis on the basis of the pattern of inheritance and the type and distribution of the scaling. Where there are mild variants it may be difficult to differentiate from xerosis of atopic eczema. This really is not a surprise as there is a common genetic basis. There are so many products sold in the market, but really it is trial and error sourcing a solution that works for the patient. Some common ingredients and products that can help are things like soft whit paraffin, emulsifying ointments and ingredients containing glycerin, urea and lactic acid. While these products offer relief, they do not offer a long-term solution.

KERATOSIS PILARIS This is a very common disorder that presents on the upper arms and thighs and affects a large population of mainly females. It can develop on the cheeks, which in some cases causes pitted scar tissue. The disorder is not present at birth but does develop in the first few years of life with noticeable improvement in warmer climates. Complications of this disorder accelerate in colder climates when the skin is usually dryer therefore becomes easily irritated. Keratinisation of hair follicles become filled with horny plugs that become quite pruritus. Combinations of vitamin A, salicylic acid and urea seem to ease the condition. There is also strong evidence of UVR improving this disorder. The climate also has an effect on the development of Keratosis pilaris where warmer humid climates seem more beneficial than cooler climates.

RECESSIVE X-LINKED ICHTHYOSIS This disorder is not as common and is inherited as an X-linked recessive trait and therefore is mainly found in the male population. The condition affects approximately one in 6000 males and is associated with a deficiency of the enzyme steroid sulfatase. Sulfatase hydrolyses cholesterol sulfate. The scales usually appear in the first year of life and are much larger than the previous ichthyosis described earlier. They have very distinct colour of brown and are found all over the body. Treatment is typically similar to what I have described previously.

AUTOSOMAL RECESSIVE CONGENTIAL ICHTHYOSES There are three types of autosomal recessive congential ichthyosis: ! lamellar ichthyosis ! congenital ichthyosiform erythroderma ! harlequin ichthyosis (the most severe disorder) These problematic disorders occur at birth. The corneum layer is very smooth and shiny and looks as though cling wrap is covering the skin. The skin is very tight and the skin sheds within a few days leaving a red scale. Babies born with this skin disorder will have problems with temperature regulation and high water loss from the skin. They are placed in high humidity incubators and have regular applications of emollients to prevent water loss from the skin. Thankfully these conditions are rare.

KERATINOPATHIC ICHTHOSES This is another rare genetic disorder that appears shortly after birth. The skin becomes very red with blisters occurring on the body that fades and heals over a few months. During childhood the condition appears as brown warty hyperkeratosis that becomes infected and is very painful, it is also accompanied by a foul odour. The histology is very distinctive having a thickened granular cell layer which contains large granules with clefts appearing the corneum layer. The condition is caused by mutations in the genes controlling the production of keratins. Adult patients may have localised areas of hyperkeratosis therefore, their children are at risk of developing the generalised form of the disorder.

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It is an inflammatory disease that not only affects the skin but other parts of the body. It is associated with arthritis and severe cases of psoriasis has increased the risk of cardiovascular disease. Need I mention stress as a contributing factor when it comes to psoriasis? There are two key abnormalities in a psoriatic plaque: ! hyper-proliferation of keratinocytes ! inflammatory cell infiltrate in which neutrophil cells, tumour necrosis factor and T lymphocytes predominate. Both of these abnormalities can induce the other, leading to a vicious cycle of keratinocyte proliferation and inflammatory reaction, though it is still not clear, which is the primary defect. Maybe it is the genetic abnormality leading first to keratinocyte hyper-proliferation that then produces a defective skin barrier. This then will allow the penetration of bacteria that starts off an immune response. Needless to say psoriasis is undoubtedly a genetic condition but it does not always follow the pattern on inheritance. A child with one parent who has psoriasis has a 14% chance of inheriting the condition where as if both parents had the disorder there is a 41% chance of inheriting the disorder. Psoriasis is different from ichthyoses because of the accumulation of inflammatory cells, where as ichthyoses is flat and scaly.

ACQUIRED ICHTHYOSIS Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unusual for ichthyosis to appear for the first time in adult life but, if it does there is usually an underlying disease, for example. Hodgkin's disease is one and poor diet has also been associated with acquired ichthyosis. Hypothyroidism can also cause the skin to become dry and flaky.

KERATOSIS FOLLICULARIS Keratosis follicularis is another rare condition and is inherited as an autosomal dominant trait also known as Darier's disease. Sadly fertility tends to be low with this condition. Occurrence usually appears in mid-teens and seems to develop after there has been too much exposure to UVR. The lesions are pink to a brownish colour and they are small in size but they develop into warty plaques. They can also appear as warts on the backs of the hands, palms and soles of the feet. There is a bacterial overgrowth which again can cause a foul smell. There have been reports stating with this condition there is an association with bipolar mood disorders and other personality disorders. A recent study revealed over half of the patients with Darier's disease were diagnosed with a major psychiatric condition.

PSORIASIS Looking at psoriasis could be a whole article of its own and only in the last 10 -15 years have they had a better understanding of this disorder.

! !

Contributing factors: ! Active psoriasis: When psoriasis is active the lesions can appear in skin that is damaged by wounds and other trauma to the tissue. ! Hormonal: The disorder can improve during pregnancy but will have a relapse once the baby is born. Alcohol and cigarette smoking: Psoriasis appears to be more active with patients that indulge in both of these habits. Stress: Psoriasis often develops in the scalp and is more active when patients are under stress.

If you have been in contact with some of the skin disorders discussed in this article during your consultations it is important to visually see the skin ,not just on the face, but also on the body so that you can determine if there is a skin disorder. Dry skin is caused by something, whether that something is genetic, hormonal, diet related or internal inflammation. Your consultation process will give you a pathway to identifying what type of hyper-keratinisation disorder you are dealing with and the most appropriate way to treat it effectively. Gay Wardle is a highly regarded industry expert and trainer in Advanced Skin Analysis. She delivers several training programs to suite individuals and businesses in better understanding the science behind skin conditions and disorders and determining the appropriate course of action in achieving advanced treatment outcomes. If you wish to speak with her or to access her next training dates contact Gay Wardle on 0418 708 455 or 07 3289 255 or email gay@skinology.com.au.

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A breakthrough in post procedure care

Stratacel and Stratamed, applied immediately post procedure, speed up the healing process resulting in reduced downtime and improved aesthetic outcome.1 Strataderm is a medical product for the professional prevention and treatment of both old and new scars.

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Laser resurfacing1 – treatment with Stratacel following fractional laser resurfacing

Laser resurfacing (acne scars)2 –treatment with Stratamed in combination with thermage and CO2 fractional laser resurfacing.

Linear hypertrophic scar after surgery1 – monotherapy treatment with Strataderm

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17.10.16 15:35

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AUSMED INTERNATIONAL Making waves in the

AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS BUSINESS WORLD To succeed in today's competitive business environment when it comes to equipment technology you need to excel in three key areas: 1. Quality, reliable, cutting-edge technology that is backed by science and TGA approval 2. Exceptional service that delivers on-going support 3. Competitively priced without compromising on quality Meeting and exceeding the needs of the industry Ausmed provide exceptional, high performance aesthetic and cosmetic medical devices. In a short time they have achieved industry recognition for their high performance Intense Pulse Light (IPL) devices, diode lasers and advanced technologies for body shaping and toning that can deliver a broad range of treatments from face to body. We can provide you with exceptional devices to deliver amazing body contouring results through to treatment of various skin conditions as well as advanced skin rejuvenation results. Our machines are competitively priced to make them affordable without compromising on quality. All our devices are ergonomically designed and are user friendly for both efficacy and ease of use. Designed to deliver exact and precise treatment outcomes they will ensure that you can guarantee your clients excellent results each and every time.

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HERE ARE JUST TWO OF OUR LEADING STAR PERFORMERS: Med Pulse SHR (latest in IPL technology) for Hair Reduction, Pigmentation, skin rejuvenation and vascular If you are looking for a modern device that can deliver effective treatment outcomes for a wide range of optionss then Ausmed's Med Pulse SHR offer the latest technology. It provides safe, effective permanent hair reduction with minimum discomfort due to its advanced technology power cooling system. Furthermore the Ausmed's Med Pulse SHR also offers effective treatment options for skin rejuvenation, pigmentation and vascular treatments in the one device. It delivers precise energy output in three therapeutic modes: traditional IPL mode, Fly Point mode and SHR in motion SHR mode that is suitable for all skin types with minimum discomfort. You can expect a super strong IPL power supply - 2000w with fast repetition rate maximum 10 shots per second with the SHR mode. Its slim and delicate modern designed hand pieces allow ease of use and optimal network management functions.

DioMed-100: Diode laser for hair reduction If you prefer to work with a laser then Ausmed's DioMed-100 is an amazing device specifically designed for hair reduction. It can emit laser light at 808nm wavelength that can be absorbed by melanin located in the hair follicle. The hair shaft can also absorb the energy destroying the hair follicle for effective removal. It offers safe energy delivery, continuous contact cooling to the epidermis, while its ergonomically designed finger trigger offers easy, comfortable operation.

For further details Contact Ausmed International Pty Ltd Ph: 02 8957 2177, Mob: 0424 795 652 www.ausmedlaser.com.au

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Med-QLaser

Q-Switched ND:

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For Effective Removal of Tattoos and Pigmented Lesions Med-QLaser TM is a new-generation device integrated with real-time energy monitor, energy auto-changing by adjustable handpiece, water filtration system, guaranteeing safety and efficacy during usage. It offers dual-wavelength switching of 1064nm and 532nm pulse width shot to 5nm and energy output up to 1000mJ. New UI ergonomic design makes user experience simpler and more convenient.

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skinscience

Ceramides and Skin Barrier Homeostasis by Jacine Greenwood WORKING on the skin in this modern era of new and exciting cosmetic formulations can make our work very rewarding. However, the challenge is how well will our active ingredients penetrate the skin? This is where understanding ceramides in the stratum corneum, their role, function and how they related to product permeability is critical when aiming to achieve treatment outcomes. Janice Greenwood is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge on cosmetic chemistry. In this article she presents some compelling information on ceramides in the skin and their role in ingredient permeability. The stratum corneum is a key player in the maintenance of the skin barrier and permeability of the skin (Elias, 2004). It provides a physical barrier to exogenous substances penetrating the skin readily. Ceramides are involved in the formation of the lipid bilayers and are a major lipid of the stratum corneum, constituting nearly 50% of the epidermis by weight. It is known that depletion of ceramides is a contributor to the development of xerosis and barrier disruption. The lamellar bodies in the upper layer of stratum granulosum are responsible for the production of ceramides. One of the most important properties of a lipid bilayer is the relative mobility (fluidity) of the individual lipid molecules and how this mobility changes with temperature. This response is known as the phase behavior of the bilayer. Broadly, at a given temperature a lipid bilayer can exist in either a liquid or a solid phase. Unlike liquid phase bilayers, the lipids in a gel phase bilayer are locked in place and exhibit neither flip-flop nor lateral mobility. Due to this limited mobility, gel bilayers lack an important property of liquid bilayers: the ability to reseal small holes. Liquid phase bilayers can spontaneously heal small voids, much the same way a film of oil on

water could flow in to fill a gap. This functionality is one of the reasons that cell membranes are usually composed of fluid phase bilayers. The physical state of the lipid membrane is described by its fluidity (or viscosity). Phospholipids are part of the molecular makeup of the cell membrane and they are integral for the membrane to be fluid. The lipid organisation of the membranes of skin is unique and distinctly different from other biological membranes, in that two lamellar phases are present, which form crystalline lateral phases mainly. The distance between the spacing of these lamellar phases are of importance in regards to fluidity of the lipid bilayer. If the gaps are too wide they lack the ability to fill in the gaps in the skin. During the skin differentiation process phospholipids are metabolised into free fatty acids, glycosphingolipids and ceramides. The enzymes involved in sphingolipid metabolism were first discovered from the yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The Saccharomyces enzymes were found to be similar to the same enzymes in mammals. The metabolism of these lipids involves numerous enzymes that take 'simple' sphingoid bases (e.g. sphingosine) and convert them into sphingolipids (e.g. sphingomyelin and glycosphingolipids). One of the most important modifications of sphingoid bases is acylation of the free primary amine group to produce ceramides.

WHAT ARE CERAMIDES Ceramides are a structurally complex group of sphingolipids containing derivatives of sphingosine bases, which are linked via amides with a variety of fatty acids. Differences in chain length, type and extent of hydroxylation and saturation are responsible for the heterogeneity of the epidermal sphingolipids (Coderche et al 2003). Ceramides belong to the family of Sphingolipids, which are a type of lipid that has an important role in cellular signaling and

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differentiation. It has been shown that sphingolipids are involved in apoptosis and other biological activities (Hannun, 2008). The increase of ceramide levels in the skin results in the downregulation of cell proliferation. Spingomyelins are another large group of epidermal sphingolipids, which have been reported as precursors of ceramides. (Schmuth et al., 2000) (Uchida et al 2000)(Holleran et al 2006). Cholesterols and fatty acids are also major skin lipids, and cholesterol-3-sulfate is a ubiquitous metabolite of cholesterol, which is involved in cornified envelope formation (Nemes et al., 2000).

CERAMIDE PATHYWAYS

long-chain ceramides (Ogretmen, 2002; Sultan et al., 2006). Biosynthesis of ceramide in vivo starts by condensation of serine and palmitoyl-CoA to form 3-keto-sphinganine, which is subsequently reduced to dihydrosphingosine. In the next steps, a fatty acyl group is added to the dihydrosphingosine moiety via an amide linkage giving dihydroceramide and a trans-4,5-double bound is introduced to yield ceramide( Rother 1992).

STRATUM CORNEUM CERAMIDES The stratum corneum ceramides are composed of eleven different ceramide fractions that differ from each other in terms of the polar head group structure, number of free hydroxyl groups and the mean fatty acid chain length(Ishikawa et al, 2010). Ceramide 1 has been found to be of great importance to the normal barrier function of the skin and for the organization of the intercellular lipids.

Ceramide production pathways are regulated at multiple levels in the skin. There have been four pathways so far that have been identified: the de novo pathway, the The distinctive ceramides in the sphingomyelinase pathway, the skin are derived mainly from salvage pathway, and the exogenous glucosylceramide (two forms ceramide-recycling pathway also arise from sphingomyelin), (Kitatani et al., 2008). In the de novo s y n t hesised in specific pathway, serine and fatty acyl-CoA organelles termed 'lamellar are the initiators of a series of bodies' in the epidermal cells. reactions. CER synthases 1â&#x20AC;&#x201C;6 have These organelles must fuse with an important role as each of them has the apical plasma membrane of specificities on synthesising certain the outermost cell layer of the ceramides (Mizutani et al., 2009). epidermis in order that their lipid Other enzymes such as and contents can be secreted. It is palmitoyltransferases, only then that the final step of dihydroceramidedesaturase, and 3hydrolysis of the lipid precursors ketodihydro-sphingosine reductase Skin Diagram with generation of ceramides are also key enzymes in the de novo occurs. This mechanism ensures that ceramides, with their pathway (Merrill, 2002). potentially harmful effects, never accumulate within nucleated During generation of the stratum corneum barrier lipids, ceramide cells. synthesis via the de novo pathway is thought to be upregulated in the suprabasal cell layer. Ceramdes newly synthesised by the de In diseased skin, there is often an altered lipid composition and novo pathway are immediately converted to glucosylceramides organisation and impaired barrier properties. Thus, diminished (glucosyl-CER) and sphingomyelins (SM). The glucosyl-CER and levels of ceramide in the epidermis, reflecting altered sphingolipid SM are then packaged into epidermal lamellar bodies (LB), unique metabolism especially in relation to the esterified and nonesterified secretory organelles whose quantities increase in the later stages of omega-hydroxy- ceramides and trihydroxy bases, have been keratinocyte differentiation. Glucosyl-CER and SM are implicated in such skin disorders as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. transported and secreted to the interface of the stratum granulosum and SC, where they are converted back to their ceramidespecies via Ceramides with a terminal omega-hydroxyl group in the fatty acyl hydrolysis by beta (b)-glucocerebrosidase and sphingomyelinase, moiety are bound covalently to the proteins of the cornified respectively (Uchida et al. 2000) (Holleran, 1993) (Holleran 1994). envelope. These ceramides can be covalently bound or remain All stratum corneum ceramides can be derived from glucosyl-CER, free. but only two stratum corneum ceramide species, NS and AS, are Both types of ceramides are involved with the epidermal barrier generated to a significant degree from SM (Uchida et al. 200) function. The free lipids align parallel to the corneocyte and they (Hamanaka et al. 2002). form the intercellular cement of the stratum corneum. The covalently bound lipids are involved in the formation of the corneocyte lipid envelope in the epidermis.

The salvage pathway has been reported recently as a complex mechanism, commencing as the catabolism of complex sphingolipids into glucosyl-ceramide by glucosylceramide synthase and followed by the formation of ceramides by acid betaglucosidase (Ogretmen, 2002) (Becker, 2004). These ceramides can be broken down into sphingosines by ceramidases (Asah1 and Asah2), which are reused to produce ceramides. (Bernardo et al 1995)(Koch et al 1996) (Li et al 1998) (Tani et al 2000) (Mao et al 2008)

Failure of the corneocyte envelope to form properly results in subsequent barrier disruption. For example ceramides who have a terminal omega-hydroxyl group as their fatty acyl moiety normally have the O-acyl linoleate as their fatty acyl. The linoleate can be replaced by oleate, which subsequently leads to abnormalities in the cornified envelope. This represents a change in the â&#x20AC;&#x153;qualityâ&#x20AC;? of the lipids.

In the sphingomyelinase pathway, ceramides are formed by hydrolysis of sphingomyelins, and the reverse reaction is controlled by sphingomyelin synthase (Marchesini and Hannun, 2004). Exogenous short-chain ceramides can also be utilised to generate sphingosine, thus leading to the synthesis of endogenous

The ratio of lipids in the epidermis is of critical importance. Numerous studies have shown that ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids are required to be in an equimolar ratio of 1:1:1 for normal and healthy skin barrier homeostasis(Elias et al., 1991; Feingold, 2007). Any change to the amount of lipids or quality of

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AGE AND CERAMIDE PRODUCTION The distribution of ceramides in the skin, changes, in particularly with women in relation to age and sex. Female hormones have a significant influence on the composition of the stratum corneum ceramides. There is a significant increase in Cer 1 (EOS) and Cer 2 (NS) with a corresponding decrease in Cer 3 (NP) and Cer 7 (AP) from prepubertal age to adulthood in females. Thereafter, from young adult to elderly women, the ratio of Cer 2 (NS) to total sphingolipids decreases with age in contrast to Cer 3 (NP), which shows an increase (Denda et al 1993).

THE IMPACT OF SURFACTANTS ON CERAMIDES

the lipids leads to an increase in barrier permeability and a decrease in barrier function. Alteration of this ratio results in transepidermal water loss and subsequent skin barrier disruption. Clients with Atopic Eczema for example, are known to have a deficiency of Ceramides (Ishikawa et al, 2010). It has been shown that a damaged skin barrier can be restored by the topical application of petrolatum (Man et al 1995). The petrolatum integrates however into the stratum corneum and can displace the existing lipids. It can trick the skin into thinking it has been repaired. Petrolatum works by occlusion of the skin, which has been shown to stop the secretion of ceramides from the lamellar bodies. Petrolatum therefore should only be used very short term or in conjunction with skin identical lipids. The topical application of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids in a ration of 3:1:1 not only restored barrier function it accelerated the recovery. The skin identical lipids are incorporated into the nucleated layer of the epidermis (Man 1996). The combination of skin identical lipids as well as petrolatum leads to the fastest barrier recovery, then either treatment individually. The study by Man was the discovery that led to development of ceramide-dominant moisturisers for skin diseases and dysfunction. This was the first study ever to report accelerated recovery of skin barrier disruption by modulation of topical application of lipids. Interestingly, when they applied ceramide, cholesterol, or free fatty acid alone, or a mixture of two of these, the barrier recovery was delayed. Only when they applied a mixture of all three lipids at a specific relative ratio was the barrier recovery accelerated (Man 1996). These results suggest that a balance of the three lipids is crucial for skin barrier homeostasis. Upon disruption of the skin barrier lamellar bodies start secreting more fatty acids and cholesterol, followed by a delayed synthesis of spingolipids (Menon 1992) (Feingold 1991) (Holleran 1991). Once the barrier recovery is completed, the enzyme activities gradually return to baseline levels and decreases in transepidermal water loss are observed (Elias 1992) (Grubauer 1987) (Holleran 1995) (Feingold 1997).

There are biological exogenous factors that can influence the amount of ceramides in the skin. Surfactants and the different classes of them are one example. Non-ionic surfactants have demonstrated an insignificant effect on the lamellar structure of stratum corneum lipids (Fulmer 1986; Treffel 1996)(Stamatas et al 2012). SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) on the other hand has had significant studies showing that it increases TEWL and remove lipids from the skin. The impact of the surfactant of SLS on the skin barrier a subsequent decrease in Cer 1 (EOS) and Cer 9 (AP) declined after the use of SLS on the skin. Clients who have low levels of these ceramides are those who are more prone to developing contact dermatitis following exposure to detergents (Di Nardo 1986). The ceramides that are depleted or disrupted after surfactant exposure can be replenished through the topical application of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids (Berardesca 1992). It has also been demonstrated that when cholesterol, free fatty acids, ceramides, or even acylceramides are applied alone to solventperturbed skin to stripped skin, (Mao-Quiang 1993) (Mao-Quiang 1996) and to some surfactant-treated skin they aggravate rather than improve the barrier. Likewise, any two component system of the three key stratum corneum lipids is deleterious. In contrast, threecomponent mixtures of the three key lipids or two-component mixtures of acylceramides and cholesterolallow normal barrier recovery and can even accelerate barrier recovery, depending on the final proportion of the key lipids (Mao-Quiang 1996). The aggravation and amelioration mechanism of the barrier function resulting from the topical application of physiological lipids is the same. It has been suggested that whereas complete mixtures result in normal lamellar bodies and intercellular bilayers, incomplete mixtures yield abnormal lamellar body contents and disorder intercellular lamellae (Grubauer G1987). Ceramide dominant moisturisers focus on physiologic lipid replacement therapy to restore normal balance of the epidermal barrier. In comparison with other emollients (e.g. petrolatum) that form a more superficial occlusive barrier, ceramide-dominant moisturisers permeate the stratum corneum and are synthesised in the keratinocytes, processed in lamellar bodies, and secreted back into the stratum corneum to become a part of the dermal matrix (Anderson 2009).Interestingly, while cholesterol, ceramides, and fatty acids are all required for repair, individually they encumber rather than facilitate barrier recovery (Man et al 95). Incomplete mixtures can also result in suboptimal recovery,underlining the importance of proper physiological ratios of individual components to achieve maximal efficacy and has been shown to repair its integrity and function.(Elias ). While several reports have shown that the 3:1:1

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ratio seems to be important in barrier repair, (Man et al 95) it appears that the "3" does not necessarily need to be a ceramide, as both threefold higher ratios of a fatty acid or cholesterol rather than a ceramide can significantly improve barrier function when compared to vehicle alone (Man 1996). In addition to assisting in restoration of the lipid defect in AD, these products also help to normalize the pH of the skin, which itself is separately associated with a decrease in epidermal barrier integrity, increased inflammation, and reduced antimicrobial defences (Elias 2005) (Emer 2011).

Betts JC, Agranoff AB, Nabel GJ, Shayman JA (1994) Dissociation of endogenous cellular ceramide from NF-KB activation. J BiolChem 269:8455–8458 Coderch L, López O, De la Maza O and Parra J. (2003) Ceramides and Skin Function. Am J ClinDermatol 2003; 4 (2): 107-129. Denda M, Koyama J, Hori J, et al. Age- and sex-dependent change in stratum corneum sphingolipids. Arch Dermatol Res 1993; 285: 415-7

An alternative to improving barrier function by topical application of the various mature lipid species is to enhance the natural lipidsynthetic capability of the epidermis through the topical delivery of lipid precursors.

Di Nardo A, Sugino K, Wertz P, et al. Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) induced irritant contact dermatitis: a correlation study between ceramides and in vivo parameters of irritation. Contact Dermatitis 1996; 35: 86-91 Elias PM (1983) Epidermal lipids, barrier function, and desquamation. J Invest Dermatol 80:44–49 Elias PM (2004) The epidermal permeability barrier: from the early days at Harvard to emerging concepts. J Invest Dermatol 122:xxxvi–ix Elias PM, Feingold KR. Lipids and the epidermal water barrier: metabolism, regulation and pathophysiology. SeminDermatol 1992; 11: 176-82 Elias PM, Menon GK (1991) Structural and lipid biochemical correlates of the epidermal permeability barrier. Adv Lipid Res 24:1–26 Elias PM, Choi EH. Interactions among stratum corneum defensive functions.ExpDermatol. 2005 Oct;14(10):719-26. Emer JJ, Frankel A, Sohn A, et al. A bilateral comparison study of pimecrolimus cream 1% and a topical medical device cream in the treatment of patients with atopic dermatitis.J Drugs Dermatol. 2011 Jul;10(7):735-43. Feingold KR (2007) Thematic review series: skin lipids. The role of epidermal lipids in cutaneous permeability barrier homeostasis. J Lipid Res 48:2531–46

The earliest work in this field relates to the alleviation of essential fatty acid deficiency in humans. Topical application of formulations containing linoleic acid in the form of natural oils leads to enhanced synthesis of Cer 1 (EOS) linoleate and subsequent normalisation of the linoleate/oleate ratio, which is modified in many skin diseases. Direct topical application of linoleic acid has also been shown to alleviate the symptoms of dry skin. The topical application of nicotinamide has also been shown to stimulate de novo synthesis of ceramides, with upregulation of serine palmytoyltransferase and other intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum.

Feingold KR. The regulation and role of epidermal lipid synthesis.Adv Lipid Res 1991; 24: 57-82 Feingold KR. Permeability barrier homeostasis, its biochemical basis and regulation.Cosmet Toiletries 1997; 112: 49-59 Fulmer A W , Kramer GJ. Stratum corneum lipid abnormalities in surfactant-induced dry scaly skin. J Invest Dermatol 1986; 86: 598602 Geilen, C; Wieder, T and Orfanos, C. Ceramide signalling: regulatory role in cell proliferation, differentiation and apoptosis in human epidermis. Arch Dermatol Res (1997) 289: 559–566

As previously discussed, ceramides are the main components of the multilayered lamellar bilayers between the corneocytes and, thus, a key factor in water retention and overall integrity of the barrier. Chemically, they are amide-linked free fatty acids with long-chain amino alcohol sphingoid bases, which are amide linked to hydroxylated, x-hydroxylated or nonhydroxylated fatty acids, and shown to also have functions in apoptosis, cell growth, senescence, and cell cycle control.

A complete list of references are available on request from the editor

Another OTC ceramide-based barrier repair cream is CeraVe. It is the first over-the-counter (OTC) product featuring multilamellar vesicular emulsions (MVEs), which are similar to liposomes, but facilitate a slow 24-hour controlled, time-released delivery of the contents. This delivery advance offers once-daily application, thereby encouraging adherence to a simplified regimen of moisturiser use. Berardesca et al. have demonstrated that treatment with Cer 1 (EOS) fortifies the skin barrier against minor sodium lauryl sulfate-induced damage. Lintner et al. applied a synthetic Cer type 2 (N-stearoyl-DLerytro-sphinganine) in an emulsion and showed a repairing effect on sodium lauryl sulfate–insulted skin and a barrier reinforcing effect on stripping-insulted skin.

ENHANCED CERAMIDE SYNTHESIS IN SKIN DISORDERS THROUGH DELIVERY OF PRECURSORS

The major lipid components isolated from the cornified epidermal layers are ceramides, which belong to the class of sphingolipids, cholesterol and free fatty acids (Elias 1983); their biosynthesis is in tight relationship with the cutaneous barrier function (Grubauer 1987). REFERENCES: Akimoto K, Yoshikawa N, Higaki Y, Kawashima M, Imokawa G (1993) Quantitative analysis of stratum corneum lipids in xerosis and asteatotic eczema. J Dermatol 20:1–6 Anderson PC, Dinulos JG. Are the new moisturizers more effective? CurrOpinPediatr. 2009 Aug;21(4):486-90. Berardesca E, Vignoli GP, Oresajo C, et al. Prevention of barrier function damage by topically applied ceramides. Proceedings of the 17th IFSCC International Congress; 1992 Oct 13-16; Yokohama, 881-8

JACINE GREENWOOD is an internationally recognised educator who is known within the industry for her up-to-date knowledge and her ability to deliver training in an easy to understand method. Jacine holds six Diplomas, including a Diploma of Cosmetic Chemistry and a Bachelor of Nursing. Jacine's knowledge is highly respected in the cosmetic industry. With over 22 years experience in the industry and a background of cosmetic formulation, Jacine has an immense knowledge of current trends in research and new developments in the industry.

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Jacine has been continually educating herself in all aspects of skin function and cosmetic chemistry for the past 22 years. Jacine's knowledge is current and she has vast knowledge of the active ingredients that are being released onto the market.

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Aesthetics and Massage Therapy Professionals ESTABLISHING A NEW INDUSTRY COLLABORATION by Greg Morling BODY treatments are progressively becoming a very important part of the landscape of the modern salon or clinic, this is an additional services that should be provided within a business that cares for its clients' skin and wellbeing. Much of the growing trend for body treatments is consumer-driven as the whole wellness revolution is gaining momentum. New research confirms the constant-growing shift in consumer demand from just facial and skin result seeking the added benefit of wellness-oriented services as part of the whole package of looking and feeling better.

a new way of introducing these services as part of a more modern business model approach. Greg Morling is involved in this process and with his extensive experience his contribution is invaluable. Greg has been a massage therapist for over 30 years and a leader in the remedial massage sector as former President for the Australian Association of Massage and former Vice President of ATMS. In this article he provides some background information and why businesses should consider taking advantage of this initiative.

Massage is a wonderful modality that can offer multiple benefits for both skin and body and is currently experiencing renewed interest as The relationship between beauty therapy and massage therapy a support modality in the management of ageing, stress and overall is a very close one. The beauty therapist's training always includes several elements of tactile therapy; body massage, wellbeing. facial massage, lymphatic massage â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the list goes on. There is Looking at ways to assist businesses to gain the competitive no doubt that educated, caring, therapeutic touch is a huge part advantage APAN recently was approached to consider establishing a of what happens in every traditional beauty salon, spa or clinic formal collaborative relationship with qualified massage and around Australia, or it should be. remedial therapists. The aim is to identify an innovative way to My career as a remedial massage therapists began in my very introduce this modality within modern, salons, clinics and spas, thus successful beauty salon in Sydney during the 1980's. Over the assisting businesses to introduce massage as an extended service years I have watched the expansion of the beauty industry in for the benefit of their clients, as well as achieve a new business training and education, product lines, aesthetic techniques and growth opportunity. With this objective and in collaboration with in new business models, such as franchises which are evident leaders in the massage industry APAN is exploring ways to re-invent in both beauty therapy, laser clinics, as well as part of spa

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services. However, I will always argue that the foundation and success of any salon or clinic lies equally in the business skills of the therapist and in the quality of their caring touch. Irrespective of the wonderful scientific developments in aesthetics education and the results that it brings to the modern salon and their clients, nothing will ever be as therapeutically powerful as the educated, caring touch made available to clients who visit a salon or clinic. Correspondingly, advances in the training of a variety of techniques of massage therapy have also developed more innovative techniques to meet the needs of today's knowledgeable clients who also know the great benefits achieved by remedial massage therapy. The specialised skills of an appropriately trained and educated remedial massage treatment can be a great inclusion in your salon, clinic or spa facility. I know this first hand from my own business experience.

Current dialogue with stakeholders is focusing on two areas: 1. Qualification Assessment of practitioners: APAN is regularly contacted by salons and clinics who are seeking support in accessing massage therapists that have appropriate qualifications and ethics to work collaboratively within their business on a contractual basis. As a result APAN is introducing a new Chapter/Classification for massage therapists to submit their qualifications and experience for evaluation by a qualified assessor. Applicants that meet with the necessary qualification criteria will be included on a National Register. This register will be promoted to salons, clinics and spas assisting them to select a massage therapists with validated credentials. Furthermore, these registered members will be required to provide evidence of their on-going professional development and will to abide by a code of ethics.

2. Orientation Program and Professional Development: APAN will also develop an orientation program and on-going A collaborative relationship with remedial massage support assisting massage therapists to gain a better practitioners can enhance the client experience and provide understanding of the aesthetics, or spa environment and how added value to guests and clients looking for another natural to work collaboratively within this framework for optimum road to wellness. treatment results. The intention is to create a new and Expanding clinic options does not diminish the role of dynamic business model for salons, clinics and spas working massage offered by the beauty therapist. The difference collaboratively with massage therapists in a way that between Swedish and enhances treatment outcomes remedial massage are two Studies now validate the role of a skilled massage in both skin and body. treatment in improving circulation, stimulating different therapeutic lymphatic flow, aiding detoxification, lowering B y g a i n i n g a b e t t e r approaches to wellness and use quite different cortisol levels and inflammation and ultimately understanding of both aspects techniques and outcomes. managing stress and supporting overall health. of the professional disciplines businesses can explore ways There are several issues that APAN is now addressing in that these services can improve treatment outcomes, optimise relation to building a collaborative structure between the wellness benefits and enhance the client experience. Body salons and clinics and the qualified remedial massage wellness can also be explored to include technologies such as therapist and how they might enhance both careers and build ultrasonic cavitation, laser lipolysis cellulite, weighta rewarding business and therapeutic relationship. Questions management and body shaping programs. such as ethical standards, insurance, appropriate knowledge This is an exciting new project for APAN that we envisage about each sector and the emerging business model are all on that it can bring new opportunities for improved treatment the table for discussion and resolution, but this is a truly outcomes as well as an additional revenue layer for business innovative move for us in clinics, spas, and salons. growth. APAN recognises that the stakes are constantly raised for Greg Morling Med. DRM. QA (distinction) consumer demand for more advanced results. Additionally, Greg Morling is involved in this process and with his extensive the constant growing introduction of medical cosmetic experience his contribution is clinics is also increasing the pressure of competition. It's invaluable. Greg has been a time for the industry to review ways that practitioners and massage therapist for over 30 businesses can provide a new innovative approach that years and a leader in the remedial extends beyond just skin to also support the wellbeing of the massage sector as former client. President for the Australian

A NEW APAN COLLABORATION

Studies now validate the role of a skilled massage treatment in improving circulation, stimulating lymphatic flow, aiding detoxification, lowering cortisol levels and inflammation and ultimately managing stress and supporting overall health. For this reason the demand for this modality is experiencing a renaissance.

Association of Massage and former Vice President of ATMS. He worked in his own Spa/Salon for 14 years developing the role of the remedial massage therapist in his business. He speaks and consults around the world on muscularskeletal conditions, Spa, and Wellness.

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laserconference

13th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference 11 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 12 November 2017, Crown Promenade Melbourne demonstrations of new technologies, new procedures and established techniques This conference is designed for medical professionals such as; cosmetic physicians, cosmetic and plastic surgeons, dermatologists and other cosmetic practitioners, seeking to update their skills or expand their expertise in laser and cosmetic medicine. Program topics include: ! Management of severe rosacea and facial vascular disorders ! New-advances in non-surgical facial rejuvenation ! Hair transplantation surgery ! Marketing through social media ! Body contouring and tightening ! Sclerotherapy or surgery for varicose veins ! Vaginal rejuvenation, how does it work? ! And more! Visit the conference website to view the conference program. For over ten consecutive years the National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference (LCMC) has been providing medical professionals and cosmetic technicians with the knowledge and skills to assist them in keeping up to date with this rapidly expanding area of medicine. In 2017, the 13th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference will be held from 11-12 November at the Crown Promenade Melbourne. Once again, the conference will introduce current and new treatments, review established therapies and showcase a wide range of equipment and products, which support our industry through the concurrent trade exhibition. LCMC 2017 will bring together the leaders in the field of aesthetic medicine in an engaging format. There will be

Speakers include: Dr Sung Bin Cho, Kangskin Clinic, Korea A/Professor Greg Goodman, Dermatology Institute of Vitoria (DIV), Melbourne ! Professor Dedee Murrell, St George Hospital & UNSW, Sydney ! Professor Rodney Sinclair, Sinclair Dermatology, Melbourne ! Dr Yasmin Tan, Women's Health & Research Institute of Australia (WHRIA), Sydney ! Kate Gillman, AVANT, Sydney and more!

! !

Held in conjunction with LCMC, an intensive preconference 3 day theoretical and practical Introduction to Cosmetic Medicine workshop is also available to registered doctors. This workshop is aimed at medical practitioners new to the field of cosmetic medicine.

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LCMC 2017 and the Introduction to Cosmetic Medicine workshop are both accredited with the RACGP QI and CPD program and address the need for medical practitioners working in the area of cosmetic medicine to participate in a program of peer reviewed ongoing education. Registrations are now open. The program is now available online. Registrations open in June 2017, register before the end of the financial year to save! The early bird deadline is 1 October 2017.

Special offer! Use the code LCMCdinner when registering to go in the running to win 1 of 2 free tickets to the conference dinner!

For further information please visit the conference website: www.dcconferences.com.au/lcmc2017 or contact the Conference Secretariat: DC Conferences lcmc2017@dcconferences.com.au | +61 2 9954 4400

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UNIQUE LASER â&#x20AC;&#x201C; reaching a new level of success It is amazing how many successful business owners within our industry have come from the corporate world seeking a change of career that will allow them to pursue a profession that offers them human contact in a more meaningful way. It is true that as women we have a strong compassionate streak that we need to express and finding a profession that allows us to achieve this can be so rewarding. Sarah Oram is the owner of Unique Laser, a salon located in Torquay, regional Victoria. It is our privilege to profile her story as a valued member of APAN. There is nothing like an inspirational story from a colleague who is prepared to share their heart and experience with others. Learning from each other can be a powerful tool and we are sure that Sarah's journey will ignite new hope for many who read her story.

APJ Q1: SARAH SHARE WILL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR PROFESSIONAL BACKGROUND AND HOW YOU GOT STARTED IN THIS INDUSTRY? I originally came from the corporate world as a consultant and senior strategist with a large multi-national company. In this capacity I was advising businesses how to improve processes. It was very rewarding to support others to introduce management strategies and watch them grow their businesses.

However, I progressively realised I wanted to put everything I was teaching others in practice for myself and for my own business. To achieve this I decided to enter the aesthetics industry and I completed a salon management qualification in London where I was at the time. My aim was to hire staff to perform the treatments and to focus on utilising my business development knowledge to run my operation. Moving to Australia I settled in Geelong, Victoria three years ago. I hired the very best staff I could get and within 18 months I opened my second clinic in Doncaster in regional NSW. In these regions there was definitely a gap in the market for non-surgical aesthetic clinics that were able to provide exceptional service. I am currently really enjoying growing my two clinics as I am able to focus on financial management, business skills development and finetuning my leadership skills, so I am right in my element. This is an amazing industry and I love the opportunities it offers businesses.

APJ Q2: WHAT ARE THE PRIMARY SERVICES THAT YOU PROVIDE IN YOUR BUSINESS? Our main focus is in advance procedures including laser hair removal, skin corrective and rejuvenation treatments. We

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perform clinical strength peels, dermal needling and also treat skin conditions such as pigmentation, vascular lesions as well as anti-ageing skin treatments to improve sun-damaged and ageing skin. We also perform teeth-whitening treatments. I employ 18 staff and we are open seven days a week. As we operate within Westfield Shopping Centres we are required to undertake longer trading hours.

Journal and their conferences, which I attend regularly. I get to meet great people â&#x20AC;&#x201C; suppliers and other business owners with whom I network. I also read the beauty blogs and am part of a few social media forums to exchange ideas and information.

As for our values - we have six key values that define who we are. The staff have also contributed in identifying these values APJ Q3: WHAT DO YOU LOVE THE MOST ABOUT YOUR and, in so doing, they take ownership of them and embrace them as their own. In brief these are: WORK? I absolutely love what I do and particularly appreciate the ! Integrity: Maintain integrity in all we do, how we relate diversity of skills that I can use. I am also really enjoying to each other and how we relate with our clients. running my own business. It is fascinating to test new products ! Solidarity: Each person takes responsibility to support and technologies, as well as establishing policies and their team members and to work towards common goals procedures and manage my staff. Training staff to embrace and objectives. our culture and values and work productively as a team is so ! Positivity: Our focus is in always embracing a positive rewarding. attitude and a solutions-focused mentality.

APJ Q4: WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR WHEN SELECTING STAFF?

Innovation: Constantly evolving and seeking new and better ways of improving what we offer underpins our attitude to everything we do. Experience: Drawing and learning from our experiences with our clients and sharing our knowledge with each other. Responsibility: Each staff member is responsible for their actions and committing to continually improve and grow personally and professionally.

Apart from their qualifications I place a lot of emphasis on ! selecting the right person for the tasks they are to perform. This is very important. I look for the right personality with the right motivation and attitude. It is important that they will also ! fit in as part of a team and work collaboratively with the other fellow staff members to contribute to a harmonious and positive work culture. It is really worthwhile to take time until you find the right person, because once you have a good team, APJ Q6: HOW HAS YOUR ASSOCIATION WITH APAN AS A it is much easier for everyone to step-up and work togetherat a MEMBER BENEFITED YOU? higher level. I have to say that my first point of call when I need business advice is APAN. There is always someone there that can guide APJ Q5: HOW DO YOU STAY CURRENT IN YOUR me. They have phenomenal resource documents, HR KNOWLEDGE AND WHAT ARE YOUR KEY VALUES? Templates and numerous other documents to help a business I gain a great deal of industry information from APAN, the fine-tune their compliance and operations. Their knowledge

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is up-to-date and very professional and you can guarantee to franchise. This will allow me to help other businesses gain from our knowledge and experience and benefit from get accurate information and support. successful business practices that can provide them greater APJ Q7: WHAT EXCITING PROJECT DO YOU NOW security in facing the future.

HAVE ON THE HORIZON? I am so aware that many practitioners struggle with the business side of their operations. They provide great treatments, but have a hard time in the management side of the business. After three years in this industry I have developed a great business model, which I plan to launch as a

To contact Sarah Oram of Unique Laser phone 043 9094 068

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productperformers

STANDARDS TO BE PROUD OF MOVING from strength to strength-to-strength Beauty Therapy Training Australia is fast gaining a reputation for quality graduates in IPL and Laser qualifications. We recently caught up with the principal Angie Todd and asked her to share her experiences as well as discuss her recently acquisition of CRICOS registration, which allows international students to benefit from Australian nationally-approved qualifications. APJ Q1: ANGIE, HAVING SUCCESSFULLY TRAINED NUMEROUS SALONS AND CLINICS THROUGH THE INDUSTRY SKILLS FUND (GOVERNMENT FUNDED PROGRAM) WHAT ARE SOME OF THE MOST NOTEWORTHY EXPERIENCES THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE WITH US? I think the most rewarding experience is to see our therapists transformed to become competent practitioners able to deliver a much higher level of personalised IPL and laser treatment outcome (including tattoo removal) for each and every client. Achieving this is so much easier on a more comprehensive foundation of knowledge and skills. Our students who have completed their qualification now have a greater understanding on how to achieve more advanced clinical outcomes. It is also so gratifying to observe the growth of their businesses, through higher-skilled staff and upgraded technologies they can now competently operate with greater confidence. APJ Q2: WHAT INDUSTRY CHANGES CAN YOU IDENTIFY OVER THE PAST 3-4 YEARS? There is no doubt that technology is moving forward furiously, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s important to keep our skills up-to-date, in order to remain on the cutting-edge of how we effectively and consistently deliver improved treatment outcomes.

burns and scarring from unqualified operators. This poses serious risk to our reputation and leads to negative association of our industry. With the right qualifications those risks can be eliminated. Q3: WHAT IS YOUR AREA OF PASSION AND WHY HAS YOUR COLLEGE CHANGED ITS DIRECTION TO SPECIALISE IN TRAINING AND QUALIFYING INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS AND BUSINESSES IN ADVANCED TECHNIQUES AND TECHNOLOGIES? Beauty Therapy Training Australia specialises in providing training in laser and light-based technologies including tattoo removal, as well as short courses in advanced techniques, such as microdermabrasion, radio frequency, peels, fraxel and agemanagement treatments. We work in small groups and we are very hands-on with the practical component. This is a strong point of focus for the licensing requirements in Queensland. Supervised hours are a must and are included with the qualifications. APJ Q4: WHY DO YOU BELIEVE THAT IT IS IMPORTANT FOR STAFF TO UNDERTAKE PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT ON A REGULAR BASIS? HOW DO THEY BENEFIT IN ADDITION TO THEIR ORIGINAL TRAINING? Well-crafted and delivered continuing professional development is important because it ensures benefits to the individual, their profession and the public. It also allows businesses to grow in their reputation and their profits. BTTA ensures your skills are kept in line with current standards and trends within the industry at a level that will secure your competitive advantage in this profession.

As competition becomes fierce there is now a strong need for aesthetics to step-up their services with higher expertise and qualifications that can give them both the knowledge and confidence to compete with others in the market place.

APJ Q5: YOU HAVE RECENTLY BEEN APPROVED BY CRICOS TO DELIVER TRAINING FOR INTERNATIONAL STUDENTS? TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT WHAT EXCITES YOU ABOUT THIS ADVANCE? We have been training at an international level for years now with great outcomes for students taking home new skills to offer professionally in their home country. Now having CRICOS approval we can offer nationally-accredited courses specialising in IPL and laser from the beautiful Gold Coast. We continue to make a meaningful contribution by helping students increase their skills and become more specialised and efficient in the workplace, as well as advance their career and move into positions where they can also lead and manage others.

We have seen this first-hand with our graduates who have been able to grow their businesses to a new level. I see far too many instances of

For training dates please contact Beauty Therapy Training Australia Phone 07 5599 5568 www.beautytherapytraining.com.au

Today it is important that we don't just go with training, but also seek the benefit of qualifications that incorporate comprehensive, solid scientific knowledge. With this level of education, practitioners are able to assess client/patient needs and determine successful treatment options and protocols also for more complex skin conditions.

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injectableprocedures

Understanding appearance enhancement through

INJECTABLES by Dr Zac Turner Injectables are becoming increasingly popular offering extra support to ageing skin and sagging features. But how do they differ? In this article Dr Zac Turner discusses the various types of injectables, how they work, contraindications and what you should know if you wish to introduce them to your clients. In today's world there are many techniques and technologies that can help you achieve great results, but invariable as we age a little extra help may be needed for lifting and plumping features and this is where injectables can do their magic. There is often confusion as to how the various injectables work, how long they last and what they hope to achieve. In this article I am presenting some basic information on how botulinum injectables differ from dermal fillers and how they differ in the benefits they provide.

WHAT IS BOTULINUM TOXIN?

a condition of the eyes. From there it began treating patients with facial muscle hyperactivity and blepharospasm. Since then, doctors began to realise the cosmetic advantages it had with treating fine lines and wrinkles and its popularity has continued to grow exponentially in the cosmetic industry ever since. The safety information on Botox is vast and comes with few side effects.

TREATMENT A treatment using a botulinum toxin is quick and easy. Some patients might go home with a slight bruise or swelling, however this should not last longer than a day, or two and is typically from the needle. Your doctor should advise you as to how many units you may need and on what areas they will be focusing. After a botulinum treatment you should try as much as possible to avoid facial expressions for the next 24 hours as this time is crucial for the botulinum to set into the skin properly. Depending on each individual's treatments should be repeated every 3-6 months as the Botox effects begin to fade.

Botulinum toxin type A is an injectable neurotoxin, better known under various brand names such as Botox Cosmetic®, Dysport®, and Xeomin®. Botulinum toxin, is one of the most poisonous biological substances. It is a neurotoxin produced by a bacterium called Clostridium botulinum. The bacterium contains eight antigenic WHO SHOULD CONSIDER BOTULINUM INJECTIONS AND exotoxins and when injected into the skin they interfere with neural WHO SHOULD AVOID IT? transmissions. They do this by blocking the release of acetylcholine Botulinum treatments cover a wide variety of patients from at the axon of each neurotransmitter, thus creating paralysis. Botox celebrities to the average person down the street who wants to smooth first received FDA approval in 1978 to study its effects on strabismus, away some lines and wrinkles. As a result the trend for botulinum

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treatment has never stopped and has more than one usage. Many people think that botulinum injections are used for one thing - fixing those unwanted wrinkles (frown lines, crow's feet, forehead lines, etc). However, while this may be the objective for many this is not always case. Some people get these treatments to get that defined jawline, or to lift their smile, and even to get that sought-after eyebrow positioning. This gives them that more symmetrical look, as symmetry is considered beautiful. For those who are pregnant or breastfeeding botulinum treatments should wait until all baby business has been handled. There have been no studies conducted to find if botulinum treatments harm the baby in anyway, but it is always better to be safe than sorry. People that have damaged nerve, or muscle complications should disclose this to their injector prior to treatment so the doctor can determine if a botulinum treatment is appropriate. Those who have recently undergone an IPL treatment, or any laser treatment should avoid having botulinum injections until all is healed or being approved from a GP. If you have had any pre-existing medical condition pertaining to the face and neck; skin cancer, keloids, facial surgeries, eyebrow microblading, or eyelash extensions, always disclose this to your doctor prior to a treatment.

WHAT ARE DERMA FILLERS While botulinum treatments will help soften lines and wrinkles, or create a gentle lifting effect, dermal fillers work differently. They help to volumise areas that have drooped or sunken and give a fuller, fresher and more awake look to facial expressions. These products usually contain Hyaluronic Acid (HA). As we know when we are young the amount of HA in our bodies is plentiful, therefore we have that smoother and plump looking face. The HA produces collagen and elastin in the skin keeping it well placed and supported. As we age the amount of HA begins to decline and this is how those unwanted fine lines and wrinkles begin to show more and more. Injections of HA fillers can add volume, make you look less tired and more refreshed, and really make a difference to your appearance.

TREATMENT Unlike botulinum injections that take a few days for their effect to kick in, the treatment outcome with dermal fillers is seen immediately. This treatment result is fast, so it provides instant gratification. As with botulinum treatments, fillers are injected using a needle, so initially there may be a little swelling, or bruising, but that subsides within a day or two so that you can see the full plumping or volumising effect. However unlike botulinum the treatment of dermal fillers last much longer, as long as 18-24 months. Depending on what type of products being used in treatment some of these dermal fillers have lifetime lasting effects as they increase collagen and elastin production upon the sight of injection. This is more often seen in those lip injections we all long for.

WHO SHOULD CONSIDER AND WHO SHOULD AVOID FILLERS Just as in botulinum, the treatments using dermal fillers seem almost endless as new and improved solutions are continuously coming onto the market. For both men and women wanting to achieve those luscious sought after lips a dermal filler will be your go-to injection. Ideally you should ask for a dermal filler that will stimulate natural-

producing collagen so that the lips enhancement will be last longer. Fillers also can lift drooping cheeks or volumise hollowing cheeks, creating an instant youthful appearance. Some physicians have been known to treat Olympic runners before their big camera day (after competing of course), to fill in those indentations beneath the eyes as they burn calories nonstop. Botulinum has also been used in patients that have cancer or HIV as they tend to have a hollow looking face, filling in those spots beneath and around the eyes/cheeks. Dermal fillers can also be used to treat droopy eyebrows, as well as creases between the brows. To no surprise, some patients are beginning to get non-surgical nose jobs in one day using dermal fillers, even filling in sagging ear lobes. Dermal fillers can even fix those troublesome acne scars that may have been there for years. For those who are pregnant or breastfeeding, dermal filler treatments should wait until all breastfeeding has ceased. There have been no studies conducted to find if dermal fillers treatments might harm the baby, but it is advisable not take any risks. As with botulinum treatments, individuals that have damaged nerve or muscle complications should tell their doctor prior to treatments. Those who have recently undergone an IPL treatment or any laser treatment should avoid having injectible treatments until all is healed or being approved by their doctor. If you have had any preexisting medical condition pertaining to the face and neck; skin cancer, keloids, facial surgeries, eyebrow microblading, or eyelash extensions, always let your doctor know prior to treatment.

IDENTIFYING APPROPRIATE QUALIFICATIONS If you are considering introducing injectables into your salon, or clinic, do your research and ask some questions. Ensure your practitioner is appropriately qualified and ask to view some of their work. You can even ask them for their certification if you are skeptical. Please note that if you are intending to hire a nurse as your injector, they will need to be able to prove you with appropriate qualification and they must also demonstrate that they are operating under the authority of a doctor. Remember also that if you are introducing this service to your clients you are also liable and can be sued if something goes wrong. This is because your referral to another practitioner will expose you to vicarious liability. For that reason within your professional indemnity and liability insurance you will need to include cover for vicarious liability. APAN has requested from their preferred insurer, the automatic inclusion of vicarious liability cover within every medical malpractice policy for the benefit of their members.

WHAT TO EXPECT In the care of a qualified and skilled injector, your clients will be able to experience a new level of improvement to their features. Each face is different and the injector working on a face will gradually learn the characteristics of the face and how best to optimise the features. A good doctor will provide you, or your client with a full evaluation. They will have you move and relax your face multiple times so that they can understand the anatomy that is beneath your skin This knowledge is vital for both botulinum and dermal fillers treatments. Trust and listen to your doctor and always see the same one for each treatment. See page 83 for Cosmetic Injectible training with Dr Zac to be held in Melbourne on the Monday after the APAN Aesthetic Conference.

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cosmetictattooing

EYEBROW PERFECTING MASTERCLASS FOLLOWING the APAN Aesthetics Conference and as part of its commitment to professional development for Cosmetic Tattooists APAN also staged a full-day hands-on advanced training in Designer Eyebrows. Therapists travelled from all over Australia eager to learn the wonderful techniques that define Tarnya Makerenko's signature style.

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Renowned in the industry for her impeccable attention to detail and amazing artistry when it comes to cosmetic tattooing procedures specifically with eyebrow design. Tarnyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gentle and humble approached and her passionate commitment to excellence was appreciated by all as she shared liberally her own journey in the world of cosmetic tattooing, along with her experiences, knowledge and techniques. Tarnya's professional style is marked by incredible detail, which is patiently delivered with care, unfolding an end result that provides a beautiful finish. Her work has that wow factor. While Tarnya was kept busy with her supervision, we were also grateful for Katherine McCann, who assisted practitioners with any technical challenges. At the end of the day we were thrilled that this training achieved its objective, which was to equip cosmetic tattoo practitioners with enhanced skills and techniques to a higher level of excellence. Each participant completed a full set of eyebrows on a client. It was moving to also witness tearful clients who were able to experience the joy of having beautifully designed eyebrows for the first time, particularly those who have suffered illnesses such as cancer. Their smiles of delight and confidence was very rewarding and very much appreciated their cosmetic tattooists who performed their procedure. A big think you to Tarnya for her commitment to high standards and her willingness to share her amazing knowledge with others. Everyone learnt so much and were grateful for her openness in sharing her techniques with them. Thank you also to Katherine for her unquenchable passion to see the industry improve in its standards and recognition through on-going education, especially with hands-on workshops, and not simply look and learn seminars. Together with passionate and credible industry professionals we are committed to securing a stronger, more professional industry that can continue to grow in credibility, respect and recognition of both consumers and allied health professionals. Last, but not least our thanks to the wonderful practitioners who took time out of their busy schedules to further their skills and knowledge. You are what APAN is all about.

Cosmetic Tattooists are urged to participate in the Topical Anaesthetic Training Course. Those who have complete the first course can now register for the second course, which will be conducted live on Monday 31st July in Brisbane after the APAN Conference. For further details please see page 28-29 or phone APAN on 07 55930360.

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UPGRADE YOUR BEAUTY QUALIFICATIONS WITH BACHELOR OF HEALTH SCIENCE (AESTHETICS) DIPLOMA OF BEAUTY AND SPA PRACTICE • • • • •

Innovative new courses Leveraging the history, teachers and facilities of the Australian National College of Beauty Access to state-of-the-art equipment Practice on real clients 10% scholarship available for members of APAN*

FIND OUT MORE 1300 575 803 | WWW.TORRENS.EDU.AU

TORRENS UNIVERSITY AUSTRALIA LTD, ABN 99 154 937 005, CRICOS PROVIDER CODE: 03389E *T&CS APPLY

highereducation

The launch of a new Degree Program BACHELOR OF HEALTH SCIENCE (AESTHETICS) As the practice of aesthetics is constantly evolving and becoming more clinical the need for advanced qualifications that include more comprehensive science and health practices is becoming a necessity. Identifying this need, Torrens University Australia has launched the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a new and innovative qualification that aims to provide graduates with a high-level of scientific knowledge and practical training, equipping them with the appropriate application of techniques and therapies for advanced Aesthetics. The Bachelor of Health Science is offered from their campuses in Fortitude Valley, Brisbane and Pyrmont, Sydney. Supported by a dynamic student

clinic, this qualification will also offer graduates the knowledge to design a range of advanced clinical treatments so that they can practice on real clients, while undertaking their studies. Students will enjoy a collaborative learning environment to maximise engagement and learning. Graduates will be capable of incorporating new technologies and innovations into their professional practice in addition to making a meaningful contribution to the industry by elevating the status of Aesthetics. The newly appointed Senior Learning Facilitator of the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) at Torrens University Australian is Gay Wardle, whose qualifications and expertise will provide the highest level of support to

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students throughout their study journey. Through her dedication and commitment to learning and teaching others, Gay has established herself as one of the most respected icons in the illustrious â&#x20AC;&#x153;skin and beautyâ&#x20AC;? industry. Her work as an educator and practitioner was celebrated in 2014 when she was inducted into both the ABIA Hall of Fame and the Reed Exhibition Hall of Fame. Through this interview, Gay was delighted to provide us with some information about what we can expect from the launch of the new Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics).

APJ Q1: WHAT IS SO EXCITING ABOUT THE NEW BACHELOR OF HEALTH SCIENCE (AESTHETICS) QUALIFICATION AND WHAT DOES THIS QUALIFICATION HOPE TO ACHIEVE IN TERMS OF LEARNING OUTCOMES FOR GRADUATES? Torrens University believes education should reflect the realities of industry, as well as provide the skills for critical thinking and global perspectives in the approach we take within the treatment environment. Integrating relevant insights and the desired skill sets through their active conversations with industry has allowed Torrens to develop a dynamic qualification for the evolving and changing needs of the modern workplace where more advanced clinical results are increasingly demanded by the savvy consumer. Having a university qualification also strengthens your ability to think and work independently, and this degree will help develop important skills, which are supported by a higher level of science and provide the ability to address the skin from a more evidence-based perspective. It will also help you to gain better communication skills to engage with your clients, as well as train you to effectively work with advanced technologies and information technology. Torrens University brings a fresh, modern, careers-focused perspective to higher education, which includes the flexibility of studying online, as well as face-to-face classes. Torrens also provides on-demand access to your learning materials and content so you can study whenever it is convenient to yourself. This hybrid training program combines online and on-campus study options and the flexibility for completing your degree. A learning support team is also available to guide you on your journey to becoming a successful, independent learner, offering workshops that will teach you how to research and can also assist with academic writing. On completion of your degree you will be equipped with skills that will provide employment opportunities and the confidence to work anywhere in the world. Through the Torrens Careers and Industry services, students will also be provided with technologically advanced employability profiling and up-skilling courtesy of a range specialized events and seminars in conjunction with leading employers. Torrens recognises the importance of assisting students to develop current employability skills and helps them to access leaders in their field, for their personal networks and industry placements. Furthermore, Torrens enjoys many mutually beneficial relationships with industry to empower their entire student cohort and ensure they provide confident, successful graduates.

APJ Q2: WHAT CHANGES IN THE INDUSTRY AND IN CONSUMER EXPECTATIONS HAS NECESSITATED THE INTRODUCTION OF A HIGHER LEVEL QUALIFICATION? We have seen very progressive changes within the industry during the past 10 years. Merging equipment and advanced active ingredients

and techniques have changed the way treatments are being performed in clinics. Consumers now wish to have treatments that can deliver improved changes to their skin, not just a feel-good experience. Today's consumer is well-informed of their options - they use search engines to research technology and new advances in treatment options, so they are quite savvy when it comes to what is available to them. They like to know that they have an aesthetician that is knowledgeable and up-to-date with these technologies and having an aesthetician who holds a degree gives them comfort knowing they have someone who is highly qualified.

APJ Q3: WHO ARE POTENTIAL STUDENTS THAT YOU BELIEVE WILL BE A GREAT FIT FOR THIS BACHELOR'S DEGREE? Anyone who has a passion for learning and wanting to work in the aesthetics industry. This unique qualification aims to graduate professionals with high-quality scientific training, allowing them to confidently incorporate new technologies and innovations into professional practice, while also contributing to the advancement of the field of Aesthetics. This program is designed both for interested parties wishing to pursue a career in aesthetics with a strong focus on skin and age management, as well as existing professionals who want to upgrade their qualifications to a degree level and improve their skills and knowledge in order to be able to deliver that higher level of clinical treatment outcomes.

APJ Q4: IF AN EXISTING THERAPIST WHO HAS BEEN IN THE INDUSTRY MANY YEARS IS LOOKING TO UPGRADE TO THIS QUALIFICATION, HOW CAN THEY BEST PREPARE FOR THE ACADEMIC REQUIREMENTS? DO THEY NEED TO DO A BRIDGING COURSE? An existing qualified therapist can expect to gain the support and guidance they will need to ensure their success. We have a brilliant Learning Support Team that is on hand to guide all students throughout their studies. We also have Success Coaches that offer support and a Resource Centre that is accessible both on campus and as online.

APJ Q5: IS THIS A FULL-TIME STUDY PROGRAM OR CAN SOMEONE UNDERTAKE IT ON A PART-TIME BASIS WILL STILL WORKING? Yes. Students have the flexibility to study full time, part-time and online. The support that is given from the Support Hub is available to all students. Lecturers avail themselves to all students throughout their studies. If students start with full time study and feel it is too much, they can change to part-time, as long as the changes have been made within the appropriate time frame and that is before census date. Changes made after census within that trimester may attract academic of financial penalties.

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If you wish to gain further information on the Bachelor of Health Science (Aesthetics) please contact Torrens University Australia Phone: 1300 575 803, Email: enquiries@torrens.edu.au or visit http://www.torrens.edu.au/courses/health/bachelor-ofhealth-science-aesthetics

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starperformer

STRATACEL â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Effective medical alternative for Post-Procedure Care

CLIENTS, or patients undergoing resurfacing treatments require post-procedure care designed to reduce downtime. It is also important to provide soothing relief for the skin so your client, or patient is Wound care after laser skin resurfacing is critical for achieving a successful result. The superficial comfortable. thermal injury created by laser skin resurfacing heals more However just as important is ensuring the choice of post- quickly when the post-care product choice is occlusive. This procedure care helps provide the best possible outcome and occlusion also reduces risk of scarring. The ideal post care patient satisfaction. product also provides a moist environment. This improves the epidermal regeneration. Numerous studies indicate that closed Stratacel from Stratpharma, has been designed to provide the wound care regimens utilising occlusive dressings for 48-72 optimal healing environment for skin that has been injured by hours post-operatively may hasten re-epithelialisation and a resurfacing procedure. Unlike many products available reduce crusting. Stratacel is a registered medical device. Preventing water loss from the wound creates a moist wound condition that allows for optimal cell migration, proliferation, differentiation and neovascularisation. A semi-occlusive dressing, such as Stratacel, also reduces discomfort, erythema and swelling. Stratacel has been developed to be ideally occlusive on skin that is sensitive due to the resurfacing procedure and is easy to spread to form a thin, flexible dressing without using undue pressure to apply. Stratacel should be applied immediately after the procedure to provide comfort for the patient and form a semi-occlusive dressing over the wounded skin. The patient can apply Stratacel easily themselves and should reapply at least twice per day, more often if needed to keep the wounded skin moist. This reduces any incidence of crusting, while also reducing down time. Stratacel dries in 5-6 minutes and once dry, make-up and physical sunscreens can be applied over the top of Stratacel. The use of Stratacel does not require changes to your existing wound care protocol. It is a simple addition to your standard process â&#x20AC;&#x201C; providing excellent results. To provide your patients with a smooth and fast postprocedure transition and reduced downtime, ensure you are offering Stratacel from Stratpharma. For further information on Stratacel and other Statpharma solutions please contact 1800 567 007

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MASTER YOUR SKILLS IN

COSMETIC INJECTABLES The art of cosmetic injectables is evolving with new techniques constantly being developed to restore a natural youthful appearance. There are currently numerous choices of injectables and dermal fillers that come in a range of different consistencies, from very light and soft for delicate and mobile areas like the lips, to denser types that are used in deeper folds, and other weights in between. The area, depth of placement and desired lifting and smoothing properties of the gels will help guide a physician's choice of product. However, there is both a science and an art to correct placement as well as choice of product for the desired result that will best suit your patient's need. Dr Zac Turner is a cosmetic physician renowned for his techniques for amazingly natural results that reflect the new trend in cosmetic enhancements. To share his skills and techniques Dr Zac will be conducting a training program for doctors and qualified nurses who wish to update their skills and knowledge.

The event will be sponsored by the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) and will be conducted co-currently with the APAN Aesthetics Conference.

LEARNING OBJECTIVES: 1. Anatomy of the face 2. Understanding the role of anti-wrinkle treatments 3. Understanding the role of dermal filler treatments 4. Beginner guide to beginning cosmetic injectables 5. Practical application of some of the techniques learnt.

Dr Zac Turner HERE ARE THE DETAILS: Event: Injectables Masterclass â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Professional Development Program Date: Sunday September 24th Time: 1.30pm - 4.30pm Location: Pullman Hotel, Albert Park, Melbourne Cost: $690

Registration is essential as there are only limited number of positions available to attend this training.

Visit: www.apanetwork.com to register. Phone 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com

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DEALING WITH BAD ATTITUDES IN THE WORKPLACE by Tina Viney

WHEN employing staff, while every effort is made to ensure the right candidate, human nature being what it is, invariably people change and toxic attitudes can surface. Left unchecked, they can become highly disruptive to the emotional and mental equilibrium of other staff members and even clients, not to mention the business's operations. At APAN, we regularly receive calls from distraught business owners who are experiencing trauma from a sudden change of attitude of a staff member and seek advice and support on how to navigate through the situation. I feel for them because indeed, this can be a painful and sometimes costly exercise. In this article I will address some key guidelines in safeguarding yourself from falling victim to a bad attitude in the workplace. Before we look at some recommendations and issues to consider, I would like to state that in my experience, the reason why these shifts in attitude can be sometimes unpredictable is that often they have been instigated by an external party and not necessarily because of a disgruntle internal issue. This could be a parent who feels that their child is taken advantage of, or it may be a partner who believes they deserve a higher position and higher pay for the job they are doing. This is not at all uncommon.

PROFILE OF A PROBLEMATIC ATTITUDE Dealing with a bad attitude can be something that creeps slowly. In fact, most of the time these individuals don't make big mistakes that call attention to themselves, and often they are actually really good at their work. That's what makes it difficult to quickly deal with a creeping negative attitude. Unsure of how to handle the situation, managers sometime sweep it under the carpet, hoping that it will go away. But like a virus running in the background of a computer program, bad attitudes can be toxic and eat away at the performance

momentum of other staff members, even the confidence of clients who may be picking up on an unhappy attitude. Ultimately, they can be devastating to the business's bottom line. While I will be offering some recommendations in this article, if you are struggling with how to handle such a situation PLEASE reach out for help to discuss strategies with an expert. For APAN members this is a free service that we provide and we help business owners regularly on how to navigate through such concerns. First, let's look at some of the signs and characteristics of a problematic attitude: ! They continually find things to complain about and exaggerate the seriousness of co-workers' mistakes ! They spread gossip and start rumours that pit employees against each other ! They talk behind co-workers' backs, and undermine supervisors' authority with a never-ending flow of criticism that stays under-the-radar so it's rarely recognised and corrected. The Manager needs to recognise these signs and quickly establish a strategy to deal with problematic attitudes, as the stakes are too high to just let things slide. Here are a few key questions to ask yourself when determining potential action: ! What is the impact of the employee's behaviour to other staff members and the business? ! How do the person's actions differ from the standards set by the business in the HR Agreement with them? ! What's the effect of this individual's behaviour on the people who work with him/her? ! Is this person actions having a impact on morale and productivity?

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person is going to feel the need to blow off steam and maybe even mount a defence. To avoiding having people feel like they are on the witness stand, let them rant a bit. This will help them feel like they are being heard – because they are. Then steer the conversation back to the results you want.

Managers should identify the actions of negative people – and make it clear those actions will no longer be tolerated. In your agreement you need to have a clause that states that each employee is required to demonstrate professional behaviour that supports team efforts and enhances team behaviour, performance and productivity. If you don't have a HR Employment Agreement please contact APAN. For a small fee you can have access to a HR document template to solve many of these problems.

H A N D L I N G T O U G H C O N V E R S AT I O N S W I T H PROBLEMATIC EMPLOYEES Establishing policy is a solid first step on how to quickly address a negative attitude. However, Fairwork also requires that you follow certain steps to ensure fairness. Any poor conduct will require that you have a private one-on-one meeting with your staff member. This discussion must be dated and the issues addressed need to be documented Here are some guidelines:

HR Agreement: If the attitude they are displaying in violating their HR Workplace Agreement present them with the clause within the document they have signed that clearly spells out that their actions is contrary to the agreement.

Seek for any underlying causes: Sometimes issues that may arise from someone's personal life may spill into a bad workplace attitude as well. Show genuine interest in their wellbeing. Ask them if everything is OK at home that may be influencing their attitude at work.

Acknowledge the awkwardness: Managers can let employees know they're providing feedback that's difficult to discuss. It's only human to feel that way.

Keep it results-oriented: A phrase like “I'm bringing this up because it's important you address this issue to be successful in your job” is helpful.

Accentuate the positive: It's a good idea to highlight the good things that are likely to happen when the person changes the disruptive behaviour. On the other hand, if the person remains defiant, stressing the negative outcome if the person's attitude doesn't change can be effective, too. It's human nature to want to delay having a tough conversation with an employee with a bad attitude. But that only makes things worse. And since it's going to be a tough conversation, it's recommended that supervisors prepare for the discussion. Here are some suggestions for handling the confrontation:

Be specific about what you want: It's a mistake to use general terms in a discussion about a specific behaviour problem. For example, a manager says “I don't like your attitude. I want you to change it.” That's very vague and it could mean anything. Instead, you could say “It's not helpful the way you talk about our staff members, or management behind their backs. It poisons and it creates an unhappy work environment that is disruptive to productivity and our client care". "If you have a grievance about something there is a protocol in your HR agreement. We have an open door policy for you to address an grievance directly with us. We are here to ensure that you are happy and like working with us. If there is a issue that concerns you please address it with management directly. A negative attitude is not acceptable".

Let them rant and ventilate a little: Once a manager has gotten through discussing the specific behaviours, it's likely the other

Try to use “we”: Work to get across the notion that the issue is a problem for everyone concerned. A manager can start by saying “We have a problem”, or “We need to change.” This helps the person realise the behaviour is important, without finger-pointing.

Avoid overusing “you”: Placing all the responsibility on the employee is a conversational black hole that's impossible to escape. The constant use of the word you, as in “You have a bad attitude and everyone knows it” is an invitation for a fight. Instead, try “We need to talk about your attitude.” The point here is, while it is OK to use the word “you,” using it continually in a negative way kills the conversation.

Avoid “however” and “but”: Some managers believe that if they lead with a compliment, it's easier to wade into the problem. That conversation looks something like this: “You've done a pretty good job, but …” and then the manager lowers the boom. That often angers people and leaves them thinking, “Why can't he ever just say something positive and leave it at that?” Consider substituting “and” for “but” and “however,” and the conversation is likely to go smoother, as in: “You're doing a pretty good job and we need to talk how to get you to show more respect for the other staff and management.”

Don't feel as if you have to fill the silence: In a tense situation a manager may be tempted to fill every gap in the conversation. Don't. Stay silent when there's a lull. Obligate the other person to fill in the silence. It's surprising the amount of information a manager can get without ever asking a question, just by remaining silent.

If you believe that the issue can be resolved, then offer them your full support. However, if you believe that the attitude has not changed on their part, at this stage it is advisable to give them a "Letter of First Warning". There are specific protocols that you need to adhere to with this process to ensure that the matter does not escalates to an "unfair dismissal case". The key thing to remember is that a bad attitude must not be tolerated under any circumstance. It must be dealt with swiftly, directly, but also fairly. While staff are employed to perform specific tasks, the attitude they bring to the workplace influences the atmosphere, both for colleagues and the clients. A bad attitude therefore should not be tolerated. Often with the appropriate firm, but caring confrontation the issues can be resolved. However, if the attitude persists it will become problematic and this is when appropriate steps must be take for dismissal. 100

APAN offer professional advice and comprehensive support including HR Workplace Agreements, First, Second and Third Letters of Warning, as well as Termination of Employment letters that comply with Fairwork requirements. With the correct policies in place your workplace can be supported for maximum productivity and a healthy and safe work environment. If you require further help please phone 07 55930 360 to speak to a consultant or email info@apanetwork.com.

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

A new study by dermatologists at Monash University explained that Australia's proximity to the equator, the high sun elevation and generally clear skies mean we face higher levels of UV radiation than those in Europe and North America. "These high UV levels put Australians at particular risk of photo-ageing, especially when combined with Australians' traditionally outdoor, sun-seeking lifestyle and a predominantly fair-skinned population," they added.

AUSSIE WOMEN ARE AGEING UP TO 20 YEARS FASTER THAN EUROPEAN AND US WOMEN STUDIES CONFIRM AUSTRALIANS may be paying for that luxury, not just with the high cost of living, but with our faces. Our sunburnt country, hot gold hush of noon and pitiless blue skies have little mercy on particularly those with pale skin, which is ageing by as much as two decades faster than our counterparts in Europe and America.

They weren't sure exactly what the extent of that risk was. So they asked 1472 women from Australia, Canada, the UK and the US to compare parts of their faces (looking at wrinkling, pigment and sagging across the forehead, nose, cheeks and mouth) to images showing varying degrees of ageing. The women in the trial were included on the basis that they had not had Botox, fillers, laser or plastic surgery. Nor had they experienced facial burns or trauma. They were aged between 18 and 75 and either Caucasian, or Asian. The results of the trial concluded that Australian women's skin aged at an accelerated age of up to 20 year more than US or European women.

Acral melanoma occurs on the palms of the hands, soles of the feet and nails, while mucosal melanoma occurs on internal surfaces including the respiratory, gastrointestinal tracts and the mouth. John Pearson, lead of the genome informatics group and coauthor of the paper Whole-Genome Landscapes of Major Melanoma Subtypes, said they now know melanoma was not just associated with skin and sun exposure.

TWO COMPOUNDS REVEALED TO SLOW AGE-INDUCED DEGENERATION CAUSE OF RARE ACRAL AND MUCOSAL MELANOMAS NOT LINKED TO SUN EXPOSURE AUSTRALIAN scientists have discovered that the danger of melanoma is not just related to sun exposure. New research by the QIMR Berghofer Medical Research Institute has found that two rarer forms of melanoma have different causes to skin melanoma, but what those causes are, needs further investigation. The two forms examined as part of the research were acral and mucosal melanoma. They are not caused by sunlight, unlike melanoma of the skin (cutaneous melanoma), which is strongly linked to UV radiation.

Mr Pearson went on to say that the way they divide melanoma is where it occurs on the body. He also stated that the sort of melanoma people are used to is the skin version, but these are much rarer versions. They are harder to detect and that's why we're paying more attention to them. "They are only about three per cent of all melanomas that we see in Australia, but that means that this year we would see more than 400 people with new diagnosis," Mr Pearson concluded. Fellow researcher Professor Richard Scolyer, of the Melanoma Institute of Australia, said the study was the biggest genomic study or DNA study of melanoma to date. "The genetic footprints we've seen have never been described in any cancer before. In fact, this is the first time anyone has looked at the entire genetic sequence of melanoma in a large number of melanoma patients. "Some of the findings were expected, but some like these new genetic footprints are totally unexpected.â&#x20AC;? He said acral melanoma was also the same melanoma that musician Bob Marley died from.

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar

Better understanding for prevention and treatment Scientists hope the study will help give them a better chance of finding more targeted treatment for the rare melanomas.

Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd

"These new subtypes are being driven by something else," Mr Pearson said. "What we predict is that the sort of treatment that would come up for the classic skin cancer wouldn't work for these subtypes."

July 4-6

ANNUAL MEETING OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION OF DERMATOLOGISTS ACC Liverpool, UK T: +44 02073830266 F: + 44 02073885268 Email: admin@bad.org.uk

July 24-26

COSMOPROF North America Mandalay Bay Las Vegas T: + 1 480.281.0424 x 3445 Email: info@cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

July 30

APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE - BRISBANE T: 07 5593 0360 E-Mail: info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

Aug 3-6

New Zealand Society of Cosmetic Medicine Annual Conference Millennium Hotel Queenstown New Zealand T: +61 9 4365 829 F: + 61 9 4370 487 E-mail: nzscm@clear.net.nz www.nzscm.co.nz

Aug 5-6

11th Annual Anti-Aging & Aesthetic Medicine Conference Sofitel Melbourne T: 03 98130439 F: 03 98130649 Email: enquiries@a5m.net

Aug 26-27

Sydney International Spa Beauty Expo International Convention Centre Sydney (ICC Sydney) T: 02 9422 2535 Email: visit@internationalbeautyexpo.com.au

Aug 26-28

Face & Body Northern California McEnery Convention Center San Jose, CA T: +1-630-653-2155 F: +1-630-653-2192 Email: FBNC@allured.com

Mr Pearson said scientists hoped to find the missing piece of the puzzle â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the cause of the melanomas â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with further research. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure as the most common form of melanoma is still the skin version," he said. "We want to find a slip, slop, slap equivalent for acral and mucosal melanoma and this study has shown us that we have to concentrate specifically on these two subtypes and not treat them as the larger population." QIMR researchers received new funding last year to dive deeper into the acral melanoma subtype. References: Eurekalert, The Journals of Gerontology

NEW COSMETIC SURGERY STATS SHOW FAT GRAFTING AND FACELIFTS ON THE RISE THE latest stats from the American Society of Plastic Surgeons (ASPS) reveal that while breast augmentation remains the number-one cosmetic procedure, facelifts and fat grafting are on the rise.

Sept 3-4 According to ASPS statistics there were 17.1 million surgical and minimally-invasive cosmetic procedures performed in the United States in 2016. The data also shows new cosmetic trends in both facelifts and fat. Although there is no definitive data about cosmetic surgery trends in Australia, we typically follow American statistics to provide an insight into the emerging trends on our shores.

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Professional Beauty Johannesburg Gallagher Convention Centre Johannesburg, South Africa T: + 44 (0)844 557 0914 Email: info@professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Patients use own fat to fill and sculpt From body fat reduction to harvesting fat to enhance other parts of the body, the data shows new cosmetic procedural trends related to the role of fat in body shaping. “One trend we are seeing with fat involves an increase in fat grafting procedures. Plastic surgeons harvest a patient's unwanted fat from their abdomen using liposuction and then inject it to lift and rejuvenate other areas such as the face, buttock and even the breast,” said ASPS President Debra Johnson, MD. “Because the material injected is the patient's own fat the results typically last longer than fillers.”

! ! !

Minimally invasive cosmetic fat injections increased 13% Buttock augmentation using fat grafting increased 26% Breast augmentation using fat grafting increased 72%

Newer, non-invasive fat reduction and skin tightening procedures are gaining popularity among patients: ! Injection-based procedures that target fat pockets in specific areas such as under the chin, increased 18% ! Non-invasive fat reduction procedures that use special technology to “freeze” fat without surgery increased 5% ! Non-invasive skin tightening procedures that target fat and tighten sagging areas increased 5% “These newer, non-invasive procedures appeal to a broad range of patients,” said Dr Johnson. “Even though they aren't surgeries, patients still need to take these procedures seriously. Before undergoing any procedure, consult with a board-certified, ASPSmember surgeon who will ensure that it's performed to the highest medical standards.”

Top five cosmetic surgical and minimally-invasive procedures This year overall cosmetic surgical procedures grew at a slightly higher rate of four per cent compared to minimally-invasive cosmetic procedures, which grew by three per cent. While body procedures are still popular, three of the five top cosmetic surgical procedures focussed on the face. Of the nearly 1.8 million cosmetic surgical procedures performed in 2016, the top 5 were: 1. Breast augmentation (290,467 procedures, up 4 percent from 2015) 2. Liposuction (235,237 procedures, up 6 percent from 2015) 3. Nose reshaping (223,018 procedures, up 2 percent from 2015) 4. Eyelid surgery (209,020 procedures, up 2 percent from 2015) 5. Facelifts (131,106 procedures, up 4 percent from 2015) Among the 15.5 million cosmetic minimally-invasive procedures performed in 2016, the top 5 were: 1. Botulinum Toxin Type A (7 million procedures, up 4 percent from 2015) 2. Soft Tissue Fillers (2.6 million procedures, up 2 percent from 2015) 3. Chemical Peel (1.36 million procedures, up 4 percent since 2015) 4. Laser hair removal (1.1 million procedures, down 1 percent from 2015) 5. Microdermabrasion (775,000 procedures, down 3 percent from 2015

Labiaplasty gains popularity

For the first time ASPS stats include data on labiaplasty, which the Facelifts, which dropped from the top five most popular cosmetic organisation began tracking in 2015. The plastic surgery which surgical procedures in 2015, made a comeback in 2016, according rejuvenates the labia by lifting and/or injecting fat or filler into the area, increased by 39 per cent in 2016, with more than 12,000 to the new stats. procedures. “Patients are captivated by instant improvements to the face. It's evident in the popularity of apps and filters that change how we can “As cosmetic procedures become more common we are seeing more diversity in the areas of the body that patients are choosing to shape and shade our faces,” said Dr Johnson. address,” said Dr Johnson. “A decade ago plastic surgeons might While there are more options than ever to rejuvenate the face, a have seen a patient every seven to 190 years when they needed a facelift performed by a plastic surgeon can give a dramatic, longer- major procedure like a facelift or tummy tuck. Now patients have lasting result and is once again back in the top five most popular ongoing relationships with their plastic surgeons and feel more cosmetic surgical procedures. comfortable discussing all areas of their body that they may be interested in rejuvenating.”

It's all about that face

SKIN-WHITENING UPTAKE SPARKS CONCERN AMONG AUSTRALIAN DERMATOLOGISTS IN the heart of Sydney's Chinatown, 30-year-old retail assistant Amanda is selling face masks and creams in bright packages. But it is the skin-whitening products that have her attention. "Chinese people like whitening, they consider it beautiful — whitening and brightening because it's good," she states. The popularity of whitening products is on the rise with the market for skin lighteners projected to reach $US23 billion ($30.5 billion) by 2020, according to market intelligence firm Global Industry Analysts.

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar

Whitening is a cultural trend and derives from what's known as "colourism" – a system that privileges lighter skin. It can be pervasive in Asian cultures where darker skin is often associated with manual outdoor work like farming, and therefore a lower status.

Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd

According to the Australian Bureau of Statistics' latest census data conducted in 2011, 24.6 per cent of the population was born overseas, while 43.1 per cent of people have at least one overseas-born parent.

Sept 10-11

Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Long Beach Convention Center T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com

Sept 14-16

Cosmetex 17 Cosmetic Surgery and Medical Expo Sydney Hilton Sydney T: 02 93681200 F: 02 9368 1500 Email: cosmetexreg@cosmetex.org

Sept 21-23

Beyond Beauty IMPACT Exhibition & Convention Centre 99 Popular Road, Banmai Subdistrict, Pakkred District, Nonthaburi 11120, Thailand T: el : +66 28335215 Email: selena.li@informa.com

24 Sept

APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE - MELBOURNE T: 07 5593 0360 E-Mail: info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

25-26 Sept

Professional Beauty Ireland The RDS Dublin, Ireland T: +44 (0) 207 351 0536 Email: Colette@professionalbeauty.co.uk

Oct 8-9

Professional Beauty North Event City Manchester, UK T: +44 (0) 207 351 0536 Email: chloe@professionalbeauty.co.uk

"I think this sort of population shift has actually resulted in an uptake in potential purchase of skin-whitening agents and certainly in my practice as a dermatologist that specialises in pigmented skin and coloured skin, I've seen a growing number of consultations and queries," Dr Michelle Rodrigues from the College of Dermatologists and a consultant dermatologist in Melbourne said. "The majority of patients that see me about lightening have a preconceived idea that this is more beautiful and this stems from very deep-seated cultural and historical beliefs that perhaps this leads to increased employment or marital opportunities." While there are no national figures for pharmacies and beauty salons, the statistic indicate that the sales of whitening and brightening creams, scrubs, lotions and even pills are increasing. A representative of Priceline stated that sales of whitening products have doubled over the last 12 months. Albina Reale, the national category manager for fragrance and beauty at Chemist Warehouse, agrees. "The whole mask trend in skincare is across all categories, but in particularly in whitening – that's the fastest-growing trend and you can see that coming out of Korea and China. It's definitely on trend, and it's definitely something that we've had to focus on," she said. In terms of salon and skin clinics the demand for whitening products and procedures is not just limited to Asian skin. APAN confirmed that pigmentation removal treatments are also on the rise also for Caucasian skins. Dermatologists warn of side-effects, unknown ingredients There are thousands of videos on YouTube regarding DIY methods of whitening from everyday products, to extensive reviews on how well certain brands work. Dermatologists in Australia said they were concerned about the risks of using the products where some ingredients were not clearly disclosed or were in foreign languages. "There has been a slow, but gradual increase in the number of patients using these and therefore the number of side-effects," Dr Rodrigues said, adding one of her patients had issues with irritation and redness after using whitening creams. "There are real risks and only theoretical benefits that haven't been proven but have shown to be potentially dangerous." The Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) said the chemical hydroquinone was the most commonly used ingredient in skinwhitening products. The chemical is banned in Europe, but can be found in products sold in Australia. Since 2000, there had only been six adverse drug reactions related to the use of hydroquinone recorded in its database, the TGA said. However, doctors said there was a broader need for education about identity and self-care. "It does beg a wider more philosophical question about darkerskinned people trying to look Anglo-Saxon, which is a concern I think," Dr Ritu Gupta, a specialist dermatologist based in Sydney, said, ‘and this is very worrying."

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Nov 15-17

Cosmoprof Asia Hong Kong Exhibition Centre 1 Expo Drive Wanchai Hong Kong T: +852 2827 6211 F: +852 37497345

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THE Sydney-based education provider – the Australasian College of Health and Wellness has recently been acquired by leading education group Scentia Pty Ltd (www.scentia.com.au). The Australasian College of Health and Wellness will continue to offer the Associate Degree in Applied Health Science (Dermal Therapies) and the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) via on-campus and online delivery.

ACQUISITION OF NEW OWNERSHIP FOR THE AUSTRALASIAN COLLEGE OF HEALTH & WELLNESS

The College is working closely with the Australian Council for Private Education and Training (ACPET) and alternative providers to support existing students to continue their studies in 2017. This is exciting news for both emerging aesthetics practitioners and the industry as a whole.

oxidation means the loss of electrons. In simpler terms, oxidation is decay or decomposition. To better understand the benefits of astaxanthin for the skin here are five benefits that have been supported by recent research: 1. Astaxanthin has been shown in clinical studies to increase skin moisture, moisture retention, elasticity, as well as promote skin smoothness, decreasing fine lines and wrinkles. 2. Astaxanthin has incredible UV-blocking properties, which helps to assist the skin in protecting itself against sun-related damage. Please note that the oil does not have SPF in it – which means you will need to use an SPF in addition to the application of this face oil.

WHY YOU SHOULD CONSIDER ADDING ASTAXANTHIN TO YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE AS clients are constantly seeking better treatment results for their skin and body so the need to gain support also from internal supplementation is a novel approach. While working collaboratively with a qualified healthcare professional can provide a comprehensive approach, gaining an understanding of what research is confirming is also of great value to a skin therapist. One such nutrient that ticks several boxes is Astaxanthin.

3. While we err on the side of quoting a more conservative study which found Astaxanthin 65 times stronger than Vitamin C in combating free radicals. Another reputable clinical study, has shown that natural astaxanthin is exceptionally powerful in singlet-oxygen quenching. A 2007 study analysed several popular antioxidants and their antioxidant power. This study found astaxanthin was 6,000 times stronger than vitamin C, 800 times stronger than CoQ10, 550 times stronger than green tea catechins and 75 times stronger than alpha lipoic acid. That is impressive. 4. Astaxanthin can neutralise multiple free radicals at once, protecting your skin and body from oxidation, damage, and inflammation.

5. Astaxanthin has been proven to increase blood flow, meaning that it will help your skin to have better circulation. Increased circulation has various benefits, including increased cell turnover, If you need a quick refresher, Astaxanthin is one of nature's most amplified elasticity, and increased water retention. potent antioxidants, and also classified as a caretenoid. It is primarily found in marine life including micro algae, wild salmon, In addition to all these amazing skin-related benefits, Astaxanthin red trout, krill, shrimp, crabs, and lobsters. It gives flamingos and can be taken as a supplement. There are a spate of clinical studies salmon their brilliant pink hue – and in the case of salmon gives which demonstrates how it can increase energy, strength, eye health, and brain health, to name a few. them the ability to swim upstream.

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So what can Astaxanthin do for your skin? Astaxanthin is Reference: Nishida Y. et. al, Quenching Activities of Common particularly impressive in supporting skin health due to the fact that Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Antioxidants against Singlet Oxygen it never becomes a pro-oxidant, meaning that it protects our cells Using Chemiluminescence Detection System. against oxidation. And, as we know, technically speaking,

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apanconference

Adelaide APAN Aesthetics Conference Wrap-up THE cold and slightly wet weather did not hinder eager therapists from attending the first 2017 APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE on Sunday May 28. The event was held at the beautifully-appointed Playford Hotel with its classic charm, opulent decor and elegantly displayed classical furniture reminiscent of a charming by-gone era.

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The conference program commenced with Mark Hassle who presented his lecture on - How to achieve leading results with your IPL and Laser. Mark covered some foundational laser physics and presented a theoretical comparison between IPLs and lasers, clarifying the various acronyms and their significance. He then discussed how to translate laser physics into the practical realm, explaining the significance of wavelengths, thermal relaxation time and the importance of checking and understanding the specifications of various devices. On a practical level he clarified how to determine depth of penetration, colour absorption and the significance of spot size, when treating various conditions, included vascular and pigmented lesions. Mark further presented a valuable overview of the various types of lasers and their capabilities. He lecture was well received with excellent feedback on the benefit of its content. Following, Mark Viney presented a historical overview of Past, present and future in Australian Regulations. His lecture introduced the regulatory process going back over 100 years when Australia was divided into independent sovereign States and how legislation and regulations were determined and governed. Looking at beauty and aesthetics Mark identified the beauty therapy in Australia was strongly influenced by European leading "beauty madames" whose focus was very much the care of the skin, compared to the US approached which combined hair and beauty. Tracing the role of Associations in the area of standards Mark presented a comprehensive review of the influence of industry bodies and the dynamics that brought about changes, influencing deregulations within the beauty and aesthetics industry in Australia. Coming forward to the present day, Mark stressed the importance of Australia regaining clearly defined nationallyrecognised standards that will support a more secure future for our industry. He encourages individual practitioners and business owners to take advantage of the new self-regulatory standards of APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner (ARAP) and Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP) as these standards registrations will play a key role in the establishment of government-approved regulations into the future. As aesthetics is now recognised as a key component of the wellness industry (globally estimated at $3.7 trillion), business owners were eager to identify ways on how they can take advantage of new ways to include some of these services in designated spaces within the salons or clinics. Presenting this topic Neil Owen unveiled global consumer trends that revealed the growing demand for customised treatment plans that included preventative wellness. He stressed that this is a definite shift in consumer expectations seeking more structured programs that can also benefit them during the process of a healthier, extended life that also provided them with quality "me time". Neil presented several new-generation technologies that are designed for smaller spaces. He further explained why they are meeting consumer expectations and how they are reshaping the industry with the new concepts wellness remakes beauty and inner beauty out towards the skin. True beauty is now perceived as more than hope in a device, or a jar - consumers are looking for the full package. Neil also discussed how massage is also gaining a 50% increase in popularity and encouraged businesses to consider the importance of body treatments.

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After lunch Don Farnden invited business owners to actively engage with him as he present leading business development strategies in line with the Michael E Gerber EMyth Coaching methods. He clarified the two types of work - Strategic and Tactical and how they differ in their outlook and operations. Don outlined the five core principles for successful business developments. His presentation was fast-paced and delegates were able to identify how a structure and systemised approach to business can yield better outcomes, save time and minimise stress in the workplace. We were also delighted to also welcome Dr Annette Pearce who spoke on new advances in skin cancer diagnosis and treatments. Her focus was on helping practitioners to recognise patient risk, by identifying various lesions and their potential links to skin cancer. Dr Pearce addressed new approaches to surgical and nonsurgical treatments. She presented a visual presentations of various types of cancers as well as clinical sub-types and how some can be deceptive and therefore missed. She also informed practitioners on various new treatment options and drugs that stimulate immune activation, as well as how new biopsy methods are able to identify at-risk patients, as well as rule out mimics of benign lesions. While most of the delegates who attended the conference were nonmedical practitioners this lecture was very much appreciated as it uncovered some valuable information that provided greater clarity on how to identify suspect lesions when dealing with the skin. It also highlighted the importance of collaborative professional relationships with dermatologists for the overall benefit of the client/patient. To end our conference program Agatha Ozhylovski presented some incredible information on how neuroscience is providing evidence of how interior design elements can influence the brain, decision-making, including client purchasing decisions to the commercial advantage of a business. While this was an unusual topics many appreciated how they can incorporate this information in shaping the design of their salons and clinics in a way that can reinforce their message and entice trust and loyalty for all who enter their premises. The event provided great networking opportunities for businesses, including new and regular suppliers who were able to build relationships in an intimate and professional environment.

Our next APAN Aesthetics Conference event will be help in Brisbane July 30th and also in Melbourne September 24th. If you have never attended an APAN Conference please prioritise to do so as these lectures will provide you with quality broad-spectrum educational content on specific areas of science, advances in technology, consumer trends, regulations and business strategies.

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We look forward to you joining us. For further details please review the programs in this journal to register for Brisbane visit http://apanetwork.com/apanbrisbane-conference-2017/. If you wish to register for Melbourne visit http://apanetwork.com/apanmelbourne-conference-2017.

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The Highest Professional Standards now has a New Name As the Aesthetics industry continues to advance so has the need to identify its leading practitioners through a new Standards Recognition Registration Classification.

APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERÂŽ (ARAP) Is the new industry Registration. Applicants will be assessed on their qualifications, knowledge, skills and standards. Industry professionals are invited to apply for Registration. There are five Registration Classifications:

] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Clinician ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Associate ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Master Educator ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Educator

AESTHET IC

APAN

PRACTITIO N

REGISTE R

Who can apply:

ARAP

Dermal Clinicians Dermal Therapists Cosmetic Nurses Skin Therapists Aesthetic Practitioners Educators A Quality Assurance Officer will assess each application on their qualifications and merits and determine eligibility.

APPLY TODAY For further information visit www.apanetwork.com and complete an ARAP Online Application Form. If you require further details please phone APAN 07 5593 0360.

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The benefit of

PALMAROSA ESSENTIAL OIL for Enhancing Skin health and Elevating Mood by Tina Viney IF you love rose essential oil, but would love something a little softer and more delicate, then I highly recommend Palmarosa essential oil. I was first introduced to this oil over 30 years ago when I studied aromatic chemistry and it was then that I fell in love with its delicate aroma and the benefits that this amazing oil can bring to both skin, health and wellbeing, So let me share with you some interesting information about Palmarosa.

anti-inflammatory effect can soothe headaches and can also calm inflammation and reduce swelling for conditions of arthritis and rheumatism when massaged into the effected area.6 Animals may also benefit from this gentle plant oil. Specifically, dog skin disorders and horse skin fungus and dermatitis are just some animal skin conditions Palmarosa oil can help treat.

Palmarosa's botanical name is Cymbopogon martinii var.motia. It is also known as Indian, or Turkish geranium, rosha, or motia and is actually a tropical grass with a delicate pink flower that is native to India.

When it comes to the skin Palmarosa offers some excellent benefits. It is a wonderful oil choice for skincare blends that is well-known for its amazing moisturising properties.4 Palmarosa can nourish the skin and is very supportive for delicate, sensitive skin and for treating problematic skin with conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.

The two types of palmarosa from which the essential oil is obtained are sofia and motia, and they vary slightly in their scent.3 The name “palmarosa” was given to the plant because of the similarity of its fragrance to rose oil. In the past, Turks blended the oil with the more expensive rose oil to minimise its cost. In fact, some unscrupulous wholesalers and retailers market oil of palmarosa as rose oil, which led to palmarosa oil's bad reputation.

However, Palmarosa also offers several interesting benefits for skin conditions with overactive sebaceous activity. The reason for this is that Palmarosa is able to also balance the sebum production of the skin and therefore provides an effective remedy for conditions such as boils, abscesses and acne breakouts.

THERAPEUTIC CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS The main chemical constituents found in palmarosa essential oil that give it its therapeutic qualities are myrcene, linalool, geraniol, geranyl acetate, dipentene, and limonene. Geraniol, the most predominant of these compounds, makes 70 to 80 per cent of the oil. It is a monoterpenoid, which functions to reprogram miswritten information in cellular memory.7 Studies confirm that this compound helps stimulate cell growth, which in turn, repairs damaged DNA. Palmarosa oil also owes its rosy fragrance to this chemical compound.8

BENEFITS OF PALMAROSA OIL Palmarosa has a gentle, cooling effect, not just on the skin, but also offers a comforting effect on the emotions. It can help provide relief from tension, stress, anxiety and nervous exhaustion. Its cooling

Palmarosa oil's health benefits are also attributed to its antiseptic and its antibacterial properties. In one study that tested the antibacterial activity of four types of essential oils – Palmarosa, evening primrose, lavender, and tuberose – researchers found that Palmarosa essential oil was the most effective against gram-positive Escherichia coli and gram-negative Staphilococcus aureus species of bacteria. Another research showed the essential oil's efficacy against a strain of yeast called Saccharomyces cerevisiae. It was suggested that this effect was due to Palmarosa's geraniol content. It was also found that exposure to the oil led to changes in the composition of the yeast cell membrane, with increased saturated fat and reduced unsaturated fat. Palmarosa oil can also serve as an antiviral agent, especially when blended with other virus-fighting oils such as anise star oil, or ravensara oil. The oil can also protect wounds from infection with its function as an antiseptic. When prescribed for internal use, Palmarosa oil can suppress bacterial growth in your urinary tract.

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Your digestive system also benefits from palmarosa essential oil as it promotes the production of stomach acid. This aids in nutrient absorption, making the digestion process smoother and more efficient.

In today's stressful world, reaching out to simple, natural remedies that are now supported by research can allow you to offer another layer of benefit to your clients through your personal touch and special care.

HOW IS IT EXTRACTED Like other plant oils, Palmarosa oil is extracted from the plant through steam distillation. As the plant matures, its flowers darken and become red. The flowers are harvested just before they fully turn red, and are dried until the capillaries burst to release the plant's volatile oils. Only then are the harvested plants steam distilled. This procedure produces an oil with a yellow colour and fragrance similar to rose essential oil, but slightly more spicy.

THE WAY TO USE PALMAROSA OIL

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You can mix 3-4 drops of Palmarosa oil in a carrier oil, such as coconut oil, or your massage cream when performing a facial massage. This will allow you to improve the hydration levels of the skin e x t e r n a l l y, w h i l e i n t e r n a l l y stimulating blood flow, oxygen and nutrients to nourish the skin. If you are applying a clay mask to an oily, or acne skin adding 2-3 drops of Palmarosa oil will offer additional antiseptic and antimicrobial properties as well as calm the skin. To help relax a stressed individual add 3-4 drops in a carrier oil and massage the back of the neck. To further diffuse stress and tension, apply two drops to your finger tips and allow your client to take a deep breath, inhaling the undiluted oil. Then add a little carrier oil to your fingertips and apply pressure point massage to the temples, forehead and head. This will provide great relief for emotional and physical exhaustion.

REFERENCES: 1. Experience-Essential-Oils.com, Palmarosa Essential Oil 2. Aromatherapy Bible, Palmarosa 3. Esoteric Oils, Palmarosa essential oil information 4. Healthy Haven Blog, March 2, 2012 5. Palmarosa Essential Oil (Cymbopogan Martinii) (PDF) 6.MegaOils.com, Palmarosa Essential Oil Benefits, Uses and Reviews Traces Etc., 7. Palmarosa Essential Oil (Cymbopogan Martinii) 8.International Journal of Essential Oil Therapeutics, 2009;3(2-3):56-65 (PDF) 9.Indian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, April 2009; 71(2):134-136 1 0 . P h y t o c h e m i s t r y, J u l y 2003;63(5):569-75 11. Aromatherapy Lifestyle, Palmarosa Essential Oil 12. OrganicFacts.net, Health Benefits of Palma Rosa Essential Oil 13. Ayurvedic Oils, May 26, 2013

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If you wish to blend with other essential oils the following oils will blend particularly well with Palmarosa: rosemary, ylangylang, geranium, bergamot, cedarwood, geranium, ginger, lemon, lemongrass, neroli, patchouli, peppermint, petitgrain, rose absolute and sandalwood.

SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS The essential oil of Palmarosa is considered completely safe. It is a non-irritant, non-sensitising, and non-toxic plant oil. However, as an extra precaution, always blend with a carrier oil when using direction on the skin. While undiluted oils can provide excellent therapeutic benefits, for pregnant women, it is advisable to consult with a qualified aromatherapy practitioner, or physician for approval. While there are no recorded side effects on the use of Palmarosa oil, always err on the side of caution. Palmarosa essential oil has been rated as “Generally Regarded as Safe” (GRAS) for internal consumption by the US Food and Drug Administration. However, it should not be ingested without the supervision of an aromatherapist. Also pregnant and nursing women should first consult their doctor before using Palmarosa oil.

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LASER SKIN AND WELLNESS

Offering a modern approach for sustainability and growth LOCATED at 6B Parkmore Rd Bentleigh East, Victoria is a quaint little clinic known as Laser Skin & Wellness owned by Julia Grinberg. If there is a person who knows how to run a successful business, while making the process fun it would have to be Julia. While she has a very astute business mind, she also has a real flare for innovation and adventure. It is the combination of these special qualities that have allowed her to create an amazing business supported by a growing number of loyal clients. Here she shares with us her journey and her signature style that has allowed to remain competitive even through difficult economic times.

By nature, I am an impatient person who loves fast results. To demonstrate the level of results that I could achieve, I often provide my clients with evidence through photos that showed half a face treated against the untreated side so that I could confirm the level of treatment outcome I could deliver. As a result, our clients know that we can achieve and trust us with our promises. We use a mixture of advanced techniques combined with cutting-edge technologies as this approach offers the best results and solutions to many problematic skin conditions.

APJ Q2: WHAT IS YOUR UNIQUE APPROACH TO CLIENT APJ Q1: JULIA PLEASE SHARE WITH US YOUR CARE AND TREATMENT RESULTS? BACKGROUND AND WHAT MADE YOU EXCEL IN LASER It's very simple. We never provide an out-of-the-box facial treatment or program. Each client is thoroughly assessed to determine the TREATMENTS AS YOUR CHOSEN PROFESSION? current status of their skin and the presented skin needs. A program is

I have always had an interest in skin, as well as cosmetic formulations and from a very young age I experimented with making products. However, my father was against me pursuing beauty and he told me to pursue a university degree and a profession that was more lucrative, so I gained a degree in computer science. However, by age 25 I was restless and decided to finally follow my heart and study for carrier in skin therapies. My passion was not just to do beautiful treatments, more importantly, I wanted to provide solutions for problematic skin conditions with irregularities. I therefore went on to specialise in laser and IPL technologies, skin needling and also trained in the Lamprobe for the removal of skin tags.

then determined that is tailor-made to address their specific concerns. This does not happen just at the initial consultation. Each client is thoroughly assessed every time they come in for their treatment, even if it was only a week ago that they had their previous treatment. The skin is a living organ and there are many issues that can contribute to changes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; stress, hormonal activity, diet, environmental issue etc. For this reason each time a client comes to us their skin is carefully re-examined for any changes, and when anything new is identified we amend the treatment protocol to address these changes. This is one of the reason why we achieve excellent results â&#x20AC;&#x201C; we are constantly looking for changes and ways to provide the very best

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education should not be narrow, it should be broad. This includes personal study and research. APJ always provides us with great articles, industry news and information that is valuable and of a high quality. We regularly conduct training with our suppliers, as well as objective professional development. I recently completed another training program with Gay Wardle on advanced skin analysis. Even though I have previously undertaken her training, I repeated it and gained some additional knowledge, which I was able to immediately implement. In order to be well-rounded as professionals I also believe it is important to broaden the scope of education and for it not to be just about treatments and technology. I have just booked my staff to do a training program in Neuro-linguistic programming (NLP) and one in Emotional Freedom Technique (EFT). These programs will help them to better understand human nature and identify ways to provide further support to our clients through these additional skills.

clinical outcomes to our treatments. Our clients value and appreciate this because they know they can experiencing the level of result they are looking for.

APJ Q3: HOW DO YOU AND YOUR STAFF KEEP UP-TODATE WITH INDUSTRY CHANGES? I cultivate a culture with my staff of continued research and study. I consider education as an on-going pursuit. I also believe that

Whatever I learn I always pass it on to my staff and we regularly have lunchtime meetings where we share our experiences and observations within the clinic in order to identify ways of improving what we do as well as working cohesively as a team.

APJ Q4: CAN YOU SHARE WITH US AN INSPIRATIONAL STORY THAT HAS CHANGED SOMEONE'S LIFE AND MADE YOU APPRECIATE WHAT YOU DO? There are numerous that I would love to share, but one particular one that was very moving was a hair-removal client who was suffering from polycystic ovarian syndrome (POS) and had excessive hair on her face. The condition was so severe that she would not allow her husband to kiss her. The hair growth was so dense that it gave her skin a blue hue from the excessive hair growth that was visible under her skin. After just four IPL hair removal treatments she arrived one day and brought me a lovely cake, and with tears in her eyes she kissed my

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hand. She told me that these treatments have changed her life. For the first time she was able to see how fair her skin was and to feel a sense of joy as she was regaining her confidence. Stories like these make it all worth-while, knowing that our services can make such a difference to someone's self esteem and confidence. While POS can be an on-going hormonal issue that can trigger hair re-growth, with appropriate IPL, or laser treatments the potential re-growth is much less. In my experience maintenance treatments are usually only needed every 8-12 months for someone with POS, and for other conditions maintenance may be needed every 3-6 years, if at all.

APJ Q5: WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE OTHER BUSINESS OWNERS WHO WISH TO JUGGLE BUSINESS AND FAMILY WITHOUT GETTING BURNT OUT? Running a business can be quite a precarious thing. Unexpected things may happen, especially with a small business when you may be required to work both in, as well as on the business. I don't believe you can afford to be rigid, you need to be flexible and determine priorities. Family is definitely important, but so is the business. Sometimes your family may suffer and sometimes the business will suffer â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this is inevitable. Sometimes both need to take turns and you have to determine at the time what is the most important, or urgent. For me, my family and my work take turns. I may be required to work on a weekend, but then I make it up to them by organising that we can all go away somewhere nice and have a lovely time. I reward them for their understanding. I try to be fair, but communication and understanding have to be fostered as they are important.

APJ Q6: AS A MEMBER, HOW HAS YOUR ASSOCIATION WITH APAN BENEFITED YOU? I find the help I receive from APAN extremely beneficial. I always receive ethical and knowledgeable advice and can reach out to them anytime and speak to an expert. As an industry body they do so much for the profession as well as support businesses who can reach out to them and gain immediate help on so many issues â&#x20AC;&#x201C; staff wages, disputes, professional development opportunities, products and equipment, regulations and much more. I can also access great information from this journal. Additionally, membership provides you with credible business alliances and wonderful networking opportunities. The APAN conferences are also great. You gain a wealth of knowledge and get to meet great people. It is important for businesses to be able to access objective, professional and credible advice that is not commercially biased. Membership has been invaluable to me.

IN CONCLUSION Julia's passion for knowledge continues to drive her. Constantly seeking new and better ways of being relevant in today's competitive market. This, combined with maintaining a caring and close relationship with her staff while always challenging them to become their very best, has contributed to a fun workplace with all the elements needed to for personal, professional and business growth.

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You can reach Julia Grinberg at Laser Skin and Wellness by phoning 03 9530 9800.

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ADVANCING AN ARTFORM while MAINTAINING INDUSTRY INTEGRITY By Rox Wade and Katherine McCann Tattooing in Australia is currently undergoing one of the most careers. This article aims to address such differences and ensure transformative stages ever seen â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this applies to both Body Tattooing that the scope of practice for both, Body Tattooing and Cosmetic tattooing is clearly understood and maintained for the benefit of both and Cosmetic Tattooing. industries going forward. Over the past 10 years, both industries have seen dramatic increases in popularity, acceptance and awareness of tattooing, growth of One of the most overtly obvious areas of difference between industry-led partnerships and organisations and a changing the Cosmetic and Body Tattooing industries is that of legislation. Unlike Cosmetic Tattooing, specific legislation landscape of legislation and regulation. exists for the Body Tattooing Industry. With the introduction While Cosmetic and Body Tattooists ultimately seek to provide a very of a variety of new laws over the past five years aimed at similar core service, eg the implantation of pigment into the skin, we reducing organised crime, tough new restrictions now exist must not forget that these two categories of tattooing are in fact very with respect to Tattoo Studios and Tattooists (Body Artists) different, enough so that they are two separate industries, both with across certain states within Australia, increasing legislative their own well-established pathways of entry into their respective requirements for studio owners and Tattoo Artists.

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RELEVANT REGULATIONS Not all States have the same license and permit restrictions or requirements; Queensland, New South Wales and South Australia are strictly controlled. Some of these controls include finger printing, criminal checks and costly renewals. Other states including Victoria and Western Australia are currently going through the legislative process with the intention of State based regulation, so ensuring practitioners are conducting their business within the legislative requirements of their industry is imperative. It is also important to note that the legislative framework within many of the states in Australia is not static, with the Body Tattoo Industry currently working with the Governments to change, improve and alter licensing and industry requirements. This means that keeping up with the changes to legislation can be difficult, unless you are fully committed to and involved in the industry and its representative bodies. It is at this point that another popular misconception can be addressed. If a body tattoo is performed using Cosmetic Tattoo equipment and pigments, is it a cosmetic tattoo? The long-held view is that the type of machine, or pigments used to perform a body tattoo is irrelevant as body tattooing is generally classified as any tattoo for 'decorative purposes', verses a cosmetic tattoo, which is designed to mimic or, cosmeticallyenhance a person's features. The Queensland and New South Wales Government's position is “Anyone operating a body art tattooing business or, performing body art tattooing procedures without a license or permit, or not covered by the transitional arrangements that apply will be breaking the law and may be subject to penalties” (fines, prosecution & imprisonment).

INSURANCE

understanding of the differences between the various areas of skin all over the body is required – tattooing a stomach requires different tools, settings, skills, knowledge, compared with tattooing a wrist, or thigh, or foot. Similarly, Cosmetic Tattooists use different techniques and methods of application for tattooing eyeliner compared with tattooing brows or an areola. The risks of inexperienced and unqualified people performing body tattoos include scarring, infection (as different areas of the body require different healing protocols), warped healed results (from a lack of appropriate stencil theory), blow-outs and drop-outs (from poor depth and angle placement of needle). Tashi Dukanovic confirms this, stating, “Reports from Professional Tattooists of members of the public attending tattoo studios to have work covered, or reconstructed which has been applied by Cosmetic Tattooists continues to rise at an alarming rate. Genuine fears that this growing phenomena, which is classed as amateur tattooing by those within the profession, may push State Governments to impose further reactive regulation upon the legitimate industry are held.” Similarly, the risk of unqualified Cosmetic Tattooists performing procedures that they are inadequately trained in is just as concerning, and is an issue that the professional Cosmetic Tattoo Industry is aware of and working to address. This brings us to the pathways of entry and training within these two industries – which is another area of major difference between these two tattoo industries. Cosmetic Tattooing has typically been taught via relatively short training courses. There has been more and more attention drawn to the current training requirements for cosmetic tattooing, with some people in the industry suggesting a shift away from short courses and towards longer training packages, most likely as a reaction to the influx of new entrants into the industry as a result of the two-day training courses, particularly in the microblading technique. Training in Cosmetic Tattooing is currently an evolving landscape, but even as such, it is still very different to the method and style of training required for Body Tattooists.

Furthermore, insurance requirements are specific in most cases in terms of what is covered for Cosmetic Tattooists, and typically, strictly exclude body tattooing. When applying for insurance, most policies ask “are you adequately trained/ qualified to perform the tasks that you will be performing”. Therefore, Cosmetic Tattoo Artists performing body tattoos would be doing a procedure “beyond their scope of practice” and would likely be uninsured for these procedures by default, APPRENTICING Apprenticing under a full-time senior body artist is considered as a result of being unqualified by industry standards. by most of the Body Tattoo Industry as the only pathway to Tashi Dukanovic, Vice President of the Australian Tattooists achieving the necessary skills to perform body tattoos. Guild states, Apprenticeships typically last between two to four years and the mentor (senior tattoo artist) decides when the “Body art tattooing has technical aspects, which must be apprenticeship is complete, based upon the quality of the work taught by a Senior Professional Artist in order for them to be that the apprentice is producing, in addition to their understood and translated competently to the skin. The understanding of and competency with many other aspects of growing prevalence of Cosmetic Tattooists now looking to the profession (such as ability to troubleshoot and service their extend their practice into body art tattooing is extremely tattoo machine, skin healing protocols, management of alarming. Neither the tools nor the skill-set held by clients, etc.). Cosmetic Tattooists qualify them to practice body tattooing”. Apprenticing requires a full-time commitment, often working for little or, no pay. Tattooing apprentices usually pay a larger Techniques utilised in performing body tattooing are different commission to their mentor from the tattoos they perform to those used in cosmetic tattooing. For a Body Tattooist, an during this time, to offset the mentor's time and expertise

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during the training period, in essence paying for their training industry is protected and sustained into the future.â&#x20AC;? as they go. Both the Cosmetic Tattoo and Body Tattoo industries are filled Most of the training is in-house, and provided incrementally, with highly skilled, intelligent, and business-savvy artists. It is as the apprentice develops the skills to advance to more in our best interests to learn from each other, particularly in complex practices. A simple example of this is that small solid terms of our accomplishments, achievements and black silhouette style tattoos would be mastered before the shortcomings, especially given that we are all interested in apprentice would be taught the art of colour work or, one-pass ensuring healthy, productive, appropriately-legislated fine line work. The Australian Tattooists Guild also industries. recommends training in Infection Control and the development of a strong art portfolio as precursors to seeking Similarly, maintaining positive relations and finding common an apprenticeship, and their website has a page dedicated to ground with our body artist/cosmetic artist counterparts and peers has never been more important. The first step to providing information about Tattoo Apprenticeships. developing this relationship may come from simply CROSSING OVER FROM COSMETIC TATTOOING TO understanding our similarities and our differences, and respecting the integrity and art forms of our industries. BODY TATTOOING There have been recent attempts by Cosmetic Tattooists to enter the Body Tattoo Industry, either as self-taught artists or Rox Wade is a fully qualified and experienced tattooist, via one or two-day training courses. This is just as concerning piercer and micro-pigmentation therapist. She is also member to Body Tattooists as one-day cosmetic tattoo training is to of the Australian Tattooists Guild and the Association of cosmetic tattoo artists alike. Attempting to undermine the Cosmetic Tattoo Inc and prides herself on staying up-to-date current body art industry standards with diluted and possibly with the latest industry changes. Rox regularly undertakes reckless training programs for Cosmetic Tattooists to additional training to further her skills in body art and skin capitalise on the growing body tattoo trend will only further science and is also registered with NICNAS (Department of segregate the Body Tattoo and Cosmetic Tattoo industries. It Health). could also create a divide that will only hurt both industries. Katherine McCann is a qualified beauty professional, Tashi Dukanovic has added to this sentiment, stating, cosmetic tattooist and tertiary postgraduate with a strong â&#x20AC;&#x153;Professional tattooists of Australia ask that the art form be respected and that support from practitioners from within other trades be shown by way of acknowledging and respecting the parameters of the different art forms and practices. Work is now being undertaken to ensure that the

background in Human Resource Management, training and strategic business development. Holding an advisory position with the Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN), Katherine is passionate about industry standards; regulations and an active industry contributor and reporter.

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ORK

AESTHETIC

Happy, Productive Staff are the Backbone of a SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS

VISORY NE

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Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) P: 07 5593 0360 | info@apanetwork.com

naturalingredients

The Amazing Benefits Of Guava for skin and heath

by Tina Viney

As a child I remember how I always looked forward to my mother preparing guava fruit juice for us as a special treat. I loved its beautiful pink colour and its delicate sweet flavour. These days I like to go beyond the favour and aroma of a product and dig deeper to find out what science is discovering about fruit, vegetables and herbs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an exercise that is often very rewarding. With the advances in research and the focus on biotechnology, many natural products are now scientifically investigated for their medicinal properties and this information is used for the purpose of product development, whether it is for supplements, or for skincare. One such interesting product is the guava fruit. Guavas are a common type of fruit, but are often neglected because of their hardness and presence of seeds. However, recent research have identified that it is indeed a super-food that is beneficial both for health as well as beauty. While the fruit is available in jam form, in order to get the health benefits from guavas, t is best to eat them fresh. This simple fruit is packed with an extraordinary array of nutrients and recently it has attracted the interest of skincare formulators as a novel ingredient because of its high natural vitamin content.

NUTRITIONAL PROPERTIES AND SKIN HEALTH Similar to Kakadu plum, guava has an important role to play in skincare since it abounds in several important vitamins and nutrients for skin health. Thus, guava pulp is often used in the manufacture of cosmetic care lotions for the face and body. Let's look at some of these benefits: To fully understand the benefits of guava you just have to look at its nutritional content. It is a rich source of vitamins A, B, C and potassium, which are good antioxidants and detoxifiers. These vitamins fight free radicals, thus keeping the skin glowing and minimising premature signs of ageing. Did you know that pink guavas also contain twice the amount of lycopene present in tomatoes? As we know, lycopene is an

antioxidant that protects your skin from being damaged by UV rays and environmental pollution. A guava provides about 2.9 grams of lycopene. Furthermore, lycopene protects the healthy cells from toxins that accumulate in the body due to metabolism and environmental pollution. These toxins also cause premature ageing by damaging the DNA in charge of growth and development. Natural Skin Toner The high concentration of vitamins, minerals and nutrients in guava also help in keeping the skin toned. Guava is effective in enhancing skin texture and clarity, as well as reviving elasticity of the skin. The astringent qualities of guavas support the skin against environmental damage and fortify the skin's rejuvenation process. Skin Hydration Proper hydration is vital for healthy skin. Water plays an important role in skin hydration levels. Guava is an excellent source of water with 81% of the fruit comprising of water, combined with valuable minerals it provides the skin an excellent source of hydration. The astringents in guavas, particularly the fruits that are not quite ripe, can treat acne and smooth the texture of the skin. This benefit comes through both eating them and rinsing your skin with an emulsion of the pulp, juice and leaves, which serves to tighten, tone and detoxify. In fact, studies show guavas work even better for this purpose than the leading skincare products. It's predominantly vitamins A, B and C content pass their benefits, along with potassium, as all of these nutrients have antioxidant properties. Being extremely rich in vitamin C, guava is one of those fruits that also promote healthy hair growth. It also helps in combatting hair loss problems.

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Skin Problems Did you know that a guava provides more than twice the recommended daily value of vitamin C, which is excellent, not just

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for collagen integrity to firm and tone the skin, but also for skin healing. Besides, it provides about 1.4 micrograms of vitamin K which is 2% of the recommended daily value. This vitamin improves blood coagulation, impairment, which is often the cause skin redness and irritation. This makes it beneficial in treating dark circles, spider veins, rosacea, acne irritation, and plotchy skin conditions.

OTHER HEALTH BENEFITS For overall body health guava with its high vitamin C content supports the cells from oxidative stress and protects the body against cancer. Lessens diabetes risk and cleansing the body Fibre is important for lowering blood sugar levels. At the same time, it is good for cleansing the digestive system and maintaining free bowel movement. Guavas are rich in fibres. The more your system stays clean, the happier you will be from inside.

when you want it to be low in carbs. Being cholesterol-free, it protects you from many diseases, including heart disease.

Eye health improvement Vitamin A, or retinol is not only beneficial for the skin, but it is also responsible for good eyesight. Guava is rich in retinol, so if you don't like carrots, you can try a guava for improving your eyesight.

Cleanses the body With its richness in fibre, guava is an excellent natural body cleanser. This is great not just weight-loss but also for flushing toxins out of your body, but also for supporting efficient elimination of wastes.

Copper Guavas contain the trace element copper, which is important in maintaining the health of the thyroid glands. The improper functioning of the thyroid glands can contribute to numerous health problems, particularly for women. These include weight gain, fatigue, as well as dry skin and hair.

Stomach problems Guava Juice is a best way to treat constipation and diarrhoea. Studies also confirm that guava can shrink and contract any open tissues in the body. This helps to shrink the canals of the active intestine and stabilises it. Constipation can be cured by the consumption of guava juice. Consume guava juice before breakfast can render the best results for this purpose.

Manganese Richness Guavas are rich in manganese which helps the body to absorb other key nutrients from the food that we eat. When our food gets properly utilised, we get all the key nutrients like biotin, vitamins, etc. Nerve relaxant Guava is rich in magnesium which acts as a nervous relaxant. It helps to relax muscles and nerves of the body. Magnesium is important for over 300 processes in the body and is one of the most critical nutrients for the health of the body and the skin. Healthy Mind It helps to keep your brain functions positive by maintaining good blood flow and also by infusing it with vitamins B3 and Vit B6. Vit B6 is pyridoxine is important for a healthy nervous system and also helps with relaxation. Slows down sugar absorption Guava can aid weight loss as it effectively prevents or slows down the absorption of sugar in the blood. As you know, sugar is a big problem when you are trying to lose weight. Studies also confirm that it is this ability that makes this fruit great for diabetics. Rich in Potassium Guava is high in potassium content. It is important to up your potassium intake when you are trying to lose weight as it helps in increasing muscle mass and burning more fat. One guava contains 688 mg of this mineral; that is 63% more than what you get from a banana. Rich in Fibre One guava contains 9 grams of fibre. This nutrient keeps you feeling full for longer, promotes better digestion of food, prevents constipation and also helps in reducing the amount of saturated fat that is absorbed by your body. Cholesterol-Free and low in carbs Studies also confirm that another reason that guava is such a great weight-loss food is because it is free of cholesterol and very low in digestible carbohydrates. It is one of the best fruits to add to your diet

CONCLUSION Now that you know some of the benefits of guava, look out for this amazing fruit, not just at your greengrocer, but also consider its benefit when included in skincare.

Nutrition Chart of Guava (100 Grams) 68 Kcal Electrolytes

Energy Carbohydrates Protein Total Fat Cholesterol Dietry Fiber

14.3 g 2.55 g 0.95 g 0 mg 5.4 g

Vitamins Folates Niacin Pantothenic acid Pyridoxine Riboflavin Thiamin Vitamin A Vitamin C Vitamin E Vitamin K

49 ug 1.084 mg 0.451 mg 0.110 mg 0.040 mg 0.067 mg 624 IU 228 mg 0.73 mg 2.6 ug

Sodium Potassium

2 mg 417 mg

Minerals 18 mg Calcium 0.230 mg Copper 0.26 mg Iron 22 mg Magnesium 0.150 mg Manganese 11 mg Phosphorus 0.6 mg Selenium 0.23 mg Zinc Phyto-nutrients Carotene-B 374 ug Crypto-xanthin-B 0 ug Lycopene 5204 ug

Useful References: Organic Facts 2016 Gyan Unlimited October 23, 2012 Cure Joy September 21, 2016 Authority Nutrition 2012-2016 Speedy Remedies February 3, 2014 Harvard Health 2010 2016 Am J Cardiol. 1992 November 15;70(15):1287-91 Int J Biol Macromol. 2016 October;91:804-11 Methods Find Exp Clin Pharmacol. 2005 December;27(10)689-95 Nutr Metab (Lond). 2010;7:9 Pharmacognosy Res. 2015 April-June;7(2):166-75 Science Direct January 2012 J Ethnopharmacol. 2007 March 21;110(2):305-10 J Smooth Muscle Res. 2009 February;45(1):31-8

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soundresearch

New Research confirms Why Natural Sounds Help you Relax By Tina Viney A GENTLE walk in the woods, experiencing the beautiful sounds of nature can affect heart rate and even alter connections in the brain, say researchers. Within our industry the use of beautiful sounds was predominantly introduced for the spa relaxation environment. Progressively, as we moved towards more clinical treatment programs, the focus has shifted more towards quick results that are "forced" by technology, or injectables. Natural elements such as sounds and aromas that contribute to the client’s relaxation have been bypassed as something that belongs to a pampering environment. Meanwhile, as stress – mental, emotional and environmental, has been identified as being on the rise and central to accelerated ageing and disease, the benefit of sounds and music are once again being revisited, particularly as research is confirming their important role in lowering stress levels and improving brain function and health. If we want results to last, but also seek to maximise the client experience as a whole, reaching out to some of these natural elements may now be scientifically validated and identified to have once again a place within the salon or clinic environment. New research seems to suggest that we can all benefit from the beautiful sounds of nature with benefits more than just a feel-good experience. This article presents the results of two studies – one from the UK, and one from the US that uncover interesting information on how natural sounds can effect our brain and health. You know that feeling of clear-headed calm that washes over you when you listen to water babbling down a stream, or leaves rustling in the wind? Researchers say they've pinpointed a scientific explanation for why sounds from nature have such a restorative effect on our psyche: According to a new study, they physically alter the connections in our brains, reducing our body's natural fight-or-flight instinct.

As we all know, natural sounds and green environments have been linked to relaxation and well-being. But the new research, published in the journal Scientific Reports, is the first to use brain scans, heartrate monitors, and behavioural experiments to suggest a physiological cause for these effects.

THE BRIGHTON STUDY To investigate the connection between the brain, the body, and background noise, researchers at Brighton and Sussex Medical School in England recruited 17 healthy adults to receive functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI) scans, while listening to a series of five-minute soundscapes of natural and man-made environments. During each soundscape, participants also performed a task to measure their attention and reaction time. Their heart rates were monitored as well, to indicate changes in their autonomic nervous systems – the system of organs involved in involuntary processes such as breathing, blood pressure, temperature, metabolism, and digestion. When they studied the fMRI results, the researchers noticed that activity in the brain's default mode network – an area involved in mind wandering and “task-free” states of wakefulness varied depending on the background sounds being played. Specifically, listening to artificial sounds was associated with patterns of inwardfocused attention, while nature sounds prompted more externalfocused attention. Inward-focused attention can include worrying and rumination about things specific to one's self – patterns that have been linked to conditions involving psychological stress (including depression, anxiety, and post-traumatic stress disorder). Participants' reaction

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times were slower when they listened to artificial sounds compared to natural ones, as well. Slight differences in heart rate were also detected, indicating a s h if t in the body's autonomic nervous system response. Overall, nature sounds were associated with a decrease in the body's sympathetic response (which causes that “fight-or-flight” feeling) and an increase in parasympathetic response – the one that helps the body relax and function in normal circumstances, and is sometimes referred to as the “rest-digest” response. Those results weren't the same for everyone, though: People who started the study with the highest sympathetic responses (suggesting high levels of stress) registered the biggest relaxation benefits from the nature clips. People who started with low levels of sympathetic response, on the other hand, actually had a slight increase when listening to natural versus artificial sounds. Lead author Cassandra Gould van Praag, PhD, a research fellow at the University of Sussex, says the study's findings may have realworld impacts especially for people with high stress levels. “I would definitely recommend a walk in natural surroundings to anyone, whether they're currently feeling frazzled or not,” she confirmed. “Even a few minutes of escape could be beneficial.” Gould van Praag says the research has inspired her to get outdoors for breaks, or listen to nature sounds using an app throughout her workday. “I really did find the downloaded tracks helpful for those times when I couldn't get away from my desk,” she says. The researches recommended not to rush into any software or noisemachine purchase without trying it first. It is important that you can personally resonate with the sounds that you respond to best. Once you settle on a nature sound you find pleasant, the researches confirmed, it may also help improve your focus and concentration. In the study, participants performed best at "attention tasks" when listening to sounds that were considered familiar, compared with unfamiliar ones. “I think this supports the importance of finding an environment, or sound machine that is right for the individual,” says Gould van Praag. “Rainforest noises might only have a strong relaxing effect if you are already very familiar with rainforests, for example!”

response may be beneficial to improved quality of sleep. "Minimising manmade noise like street traffic may also be helpful, Gould van Praag adds. Staring at a natural scene – the trees in the park, an afternoon river, sunshine on a corn field – can help you recover from stress, fatigue, and even physical illness, including sickness and surgery, research has found. The study confirmed that natural sounds, whether recorded or live, may be beneficial to your health. Participants who listened to a recording of a natural soundscape showed greater mood recovery after a disturbing event than those who listened to the same soundscape, but with added human-made sounds, such as voices and cars. “Natural soundscapes can provide restorative benefits independent of those produced by visual stimuli,” wrote the authors in their published research.

AMERICAN STUDY FINDINGS Another study from the United States at Pennsylvania State University, Abington, researchers recruited 133 student participants. First, the researchers divided the participants into four groups and then they recorded each participant's mood as measured on the Brief Mood Introspection Scale (BMIS). After watching a disturbing threeminute video depicting hand surgery, including close-up footage showing exposed tissues beneath the skin, the groups of participants took the BMIS test once again. Comparing the results, the researchers found all four groups showed similar readings at the start of the experiment and a significant worsening of mood after watching the video. Next, the four groups of participants listened to one of four different recordings: natural sounds only (recorded by the United States National Park Service); natural sounds mixed with human voices; natural sounds mixed with motorised noises; and simple silence. Again, the researchers assessed participants' moods using the BMIS. Finally, the researchers crunched the numbers and compared the results. Remarkably, only one group recovered their original mood after listening to a recording: the participants who listened to the fully natural sounds. The other three groups showed no change from the disturbed mood aroused in them when they watched the hand surgery video. In a discussion of their results, the researchers speculate a real, ecological setting would have different effects from the technological substitute they used here – the effects would be stronger. Conversely, they believe not all natural sounds are created equal and some may have less, or no restorative effect whatsoever, while some man-made sounds might have positive effects. The violent sounds of a thunderstorm, for instance, might not ease the mind whatsoever, while a gentle voice singing a lilting melody might equal the soothing effects of a gentle rainfall.

IN CONCLUSION A quick search on various studies on this topic confirms similar findings from other universities. I have included just a couple at the end of this article. The new direction of aesthetics supports the need to draw from various modalities that also address the mental, emotional and physiological wellbeing of the client/patient in order to achieve results that are successful on many levels and not just on the skin. For this reason it is important that we learn to think outside the box and be open to evidence-base scientifically-supported solutions and consider them for the benefit of our clients.

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FURTHER RESEARCH: EFFECT ON THE NERVOUS SYSTEM Finding that ideal background soundscape could potentially help to promote better rest, as well. Poor sleep causes autonomic stress (the fight-or-flight response), and autonomic stress causes poor sleep. This would suggest that anything which can reduce the fight-or-flight

Stress Recovery during Exposure to Nature Sound and Environmental Noise - International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health Stress reduction and analgesia in patients exposed to calming music postoperatively: a randomized controlled trial - European Journal of Anaesthesiology

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Why Health and Wellness Programs are a smart business practice By Meisha Marie THE era of professional collaborative partnerships has arrived and smart business operators are gaining the competitive advantage by introducing additional healthcare services to their clients within their own establishments, rather than sending their clients elsewhere through a referral. While injectables are the most common collaboration, providing professional services that address other underlying health issues are now becoming common place. APAN is a strong advocate of such collaborations. We recognise the

growing consumer trend towards improving wellbeing, minimising stress levels and gaining support for underlying health and wellness concerns. In this article naturopath Meisha Mare discusses how such a collaboration can help improve both client benefit and also create a healthier bottom-line for the business. As the saying goes, 'beauty is more than skin deep'. Why is it then that many businesses in the aesthetics industry are overlooking the very fundamental truth of this statement when developing their service menus and industry partnerships?

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As the aesthetics industry continues to move beyond the traditional practice of beauty therapy, towards more science-based, resultsdriven concepts there remains absolute room for growth in one key area – how to address the underlying systemic cause of the skin complaint. Traditionally, beauty therapists and aesthetics practitioners (depending upon your level of education) are trained to resolve the immediacy of a skin issue, with specific techniques that apply only to the structural skin. They may understand nutritional and health concepts and how these relate to the formation of skin diseases and disorders, however, there's often only minimal (formal) training provided and usually only at a very foundational level, at that. It's also important to be mindful of the potential legalities, with respect to dispensing professional advice outside the scope of your qualification.(If you're unsure of what this scope is, it's best to seek advice and clarification from a recognised industry body, such as APAN.) So, how then, do you address this gap in your treatment protocols and provide additional services that necessitate specialised knowledge that targets underlying, systemic health issues? There are two options available: 1. Further your, or your staffs' education so that you can offer these specialised services (long-view); 2. Collaborate with a qualified health practitioner to develop and incorporate these specialised services. If you recognise that incorporating specialist complementary health services could be of benefit to both your clients and your business, at this present time, then the only real immediate solution is to develop a collaborative partnership with a qualified health practitioner. Although there are a variety of ways you could blend a complementary health service stream into your aesthetics business, one very accessible option is with the introduction and promotion of client programs. As I briefly outlined in my article in the autumn issue of APJ journal, there are several different program types that can be adopted to best suit your business structure and client demographic.

NEW GENERATION PROGRAMS FOR SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS GROWTH There are four key cornerstones (CS) of business revenue, which provide identifiable opportunity for income generation within an aesthetics business. These are:

! ! ! !

Services Product sales Education Innovation and consumer trends

Each CS offers a potential source of revenue, either when used in combination, or independent of each other. As a business owner you would understand the value of adopting a revenue structure that allows for multiple streams of income – where you're no longer relying on simply one, or two areas of revenue generation for growth and development, but an overarching eco-system. This is important, as this collective eco-system provides a more robust source of income generation, with your business less likely to falter if any one of the CS areas fail or loses revenue. Equally, your able to maximise your businesses ability to build and scale profit-wise, from every client that walks in the door. If you were to complete a revenue audit of your business, how would you rate your businesses utilisation of each of these four key sources of income?

Why choose a client program model, over a practitioner consultation model?

! ! ! ! ! !

They are easily replicable – designed to be used for multiple clients. Cost effective – once you've invested in the initial setup, there'll be continual generation of revenue, indefinitely, from one asset source. Streamline your client service system – refine your initial contact/consult questions to quickly identify clients that could be filtered to an appropriate program. Adds a level of professionalism – clients can gain confidence in your ability to successfully treat them, if you can better match their needs to an already established treatment protocol. Fantastic marketing and growth strategy – build a real asset for your business that you can use to distinguish yourself,above and beyond from your competitors. Taylor programs to suit your business philosophy and image – can help to attract the clients you truly want to work with.

The brilliance with programs is that you are almost unlimited in your ability to create and design appropriate material for your clients. For example, you could incorporate one, two, three, or all four revenue CS. For instance, you could focus primarily on education: perhaps, by creating a mini digital program for clients that teaches them tips and strategies of how to combat environmental ageing, or target a specific skin condition with a program manual, or an in-house series of paid workshops. Or, you could incorporate all four CS and package them into a signature wellness program: combining services (e.g. lymphatic massage), product sales (e.g. supportive supplements or cosmeceuticals), education (e.g. dedicated lifestyle and/or menu plans) and trends (e.g. superfoods or paleo). There're a plethora of 'health' programs that are available exclusively online, through digital platforms, with the overwhelming proportion developed without the creator having ANY formal training or qualification. This is a crucial to know, as: 1. It shows that there's a viable and thriving market for online education and packaged programs: people are ALREADY purchasing programs, in some instances, paying in excess $2k+, per sign-up. 2. There are people WANTING these options and actively SEEKING them, often purchasing simply based on an online seller's visibility and clever marketing, as they haven't been presented with a viable option from a qualified therapist. In short, YOUR missing out on a paying client for YOUR business, by not being in the game. 3. You already have a competitive advantage being a qualified expert, distinctly knowledgeable, with the ability to provide professional advice and guidance; more so than many people who're already building personal wealth from program sales. Can you, as a qualified therapist and/or business owner, afford NOT to take advantage of this opportunity, to maximise a viable revenue stream? A complementary health practitioner, such as a naturopath or holistic nutritionist, could help you to develop and/or oversee your program design and implementation. There are many options available when forming such collaborative partnerships.

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HOW TO UNPACK YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND EDUCATE YOUR CLIENTS Many times, I've been approached by practitioners and therapists wanting to know how they too can create programs, specific to their company philosophy and client base. In theory, the idea of

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implementing programs sounds advantageous, but how, exactly, do you go about actually creating one? When introducing programs as a viable revenue stream, you first need to know who your clients are: the better you're able to clearly identify their immediate pains and problems, the better you can design and create suitable programs which directly address and ameliorate their concerns. It's also important that you clearly differentiate: a. What your unique skill sets as a therapist are; b. What your businesses unique selling point is â&#x20AC;&#x201C; essentially your competitive advantage.

APAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCE BRISBANE If you would like to meet Meisha Marie please attend the APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE in Brisbane July 30, she will be one of our guest speakers. At Thrive Collaborative Co, Meisha works exclusively with businesses in both the aesthetics industry and the complementary health industry.

When choosing the best people to help create and deliver your content, it helps to know that they have an educational Refine your treatment processes and collate your educational background in your industry, which is advantageous when resourses (such as, take home fact sheets) into easily accessible and collaborating with you to create appropriate content for your easily replicable program information. This could then form the bulk clients. of your program content, alongside added educational material. The success of any program is determined upon whether you've understood your client's reasons for seeking YOUR services, whether you've adequately understood and addressed their needs, and whether you've successfully resolved their issues. It's important that you provide information that is relevant to their immediate concern, that's in line with your knowledge and expertise. If you are considering the addition of targeted client programs, or of building a digital program portal, but don't feel you're competent when it comes to program design, digital content creation or marketing, there are businesses that specialise in this area.

For examples, and further information, advice and expert tips, on how to design and manage health and wellness programs for your aesthetic salon or clinic please visit www.thrivecollaborativeco.com.au, or contact Miesha at contact@thrivecollaborativeco.com.au. Alternatively, you could also see Meisha's blog in action, over at www.thesourceofbeauty.com, where she provides readers with qualified advice on natural and alternative beauty, products and information.

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APAN NATIONAL AESTHETICS CONFERENCES 2017 You give to others - let us give back to you The APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE PROGRAMS are not just educational. They offer you valuable tools to benchmark and assess your current commercial knowledge and understanding of new technologies, industry advanced and business strategies against non-biased, research and scientifically-validated information. You will gain powerful tools to determine the most credible pathway for your professional and business success. WHY YOU SHOULD ATTEND: ! Unique perspective on new advances ! Regulatory changes and how to best prepare for them ! Scientific advances ! New partnerships to help your business grow ! Unbiased, independent education information ! Business strategies ! Global trends

2 More to Go BRISBANE JULY 30 MELBOURNE SEPTEMBER 24 Mark these dates in your diary.

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Gain inspiration and become invigorated to step up your professional and business services. Knowledge is power | Gain the winning edge | Be part of a dynamic community of practice.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS Revolutionary blood tests can determine if you have deadly melanoma skin cancer A revolutionary new way to diagnose melanoma, the deadliest form of skin cancer, could be available within five years. Professor Mel Ziman from Edith Cowan University, in WA, presented new world leading findings on liquid biopsies for early melanoma detection and monitoring at the Australasian College of Dermatologists' annual scientific meeting in Sydney. Melanoma cases in Australia are on the rise, with approximately 13,000 new cases last year, resulting in 1600 deaths. Prof Ziman said current methods of melanoma diagnosis and prognosis could be problematic and limited to observation of tissue. But she said these advanced blood tests, known as liquid biopsies, could help diagnose the disease at an earlier stage.

available to those with a high risk of melanoma, such as people with many moles, and those who had a family history of melanoma or severe sun damage, within five years.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;These tests differentiate normal from disease blood, which allows the detection of melanoma in its very early stages and can also predict disease relapse without the need for tissue biopsies,â&#x20AC;? Prof Ziman said. It is hoped that these blood biopsies would be

Dr James Barnes from the Dee Why Skin Cancer and Cosmetic Clinic said he looked forward to following the research and trials. In the meantime, he advised people to have regular skin check-ups so anything suspicious could be removed before it became cancerous, and to take photos of

their moles on their smartphones to keep track of changes. According the researchers, the average adult with celtic skin who live in high sun regions have approximately 50 moles. It is important that professionals who are working with the skin conduct a thorough investigation on their clients and patients and any suspicious lesion must be investigated.

ROSACEA AND GASTRO DISORDERS POSSIBLY RELATED Large study supports likelihood of yet-to-be-defined link ROSACEA patients complaining of gastrointestinal symptoms warrant clinical suspicion of disease because, while the pathogenic link between gastrointestinal disorders and rosacea remains a mystery, an association between the two is clear, according to a new study conducted in Denmark. Researchers conducted a nationwide cohort study of 49,475 patients with rosacea and more than 4,300,000 general population controls, to look at possible associations between rosacea and celiac disease, Crohn's disease, ulcerative colitis, Helicobacter pylori infection, small intestinal bacterial overgrowth and irritable bowel syndrome.

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It's interesting to note, the dermatologist says, that some, but not all studies have suggested rosacea improves f o l l o w i n g Dr. Egeberg stated that the co-occurrence of g a s t r o i n t e s t i n a l Helicobacter pylori infection and small disorders treatment. intestinal bacterial overgrowth was significantly higher among patients with “For example treatment rosacea at baseline, but the risk of developing of small intestinal incident Helicobacter pylori infection, or bacterial overgrowth small intestinal bacterial overgrowth during and Helicobacter pylori follow-up was insignificant. Dr Alexander infections have in some Egeberg MD., Ph.D from the Department of studies resulted in a remarkably high Dermatology and Allergies, Herleve and remission rate of rosacea symptoms,” Dr. Bentoft Hospital in Denmark was the study's Egeberg says. “It may be relevant to consider a systemic approach, in particular in lead author. treatment-resistant cases of rosacea. “This suggests that Helicobacter pylori However, further studies are still needed infection and small intestinal bacterial before specific recommendations can be overgrowth may precede the onset of rosacea made.” (and may perhaps cause rosacea, but this is speculative); whereas, it does not appear that Dermatologist Hilary Baldwin, M.D., former rosacea increases the risk of Helicobacter president of the American Acne and Rosacea pylori infection or small intestinal bacterial Society and member of the National Rosacea Society medical advisory, stated that when overgrowth,” Dr. Egeberg says. evaluating the clinical importance of the In dermatology practice, Dr. Egeberg says he many reported systemic associations with and colleagues often see rosacea patients who rosacea, dermatologists need to remember complain of gastrointestinal ailments. that rosacea is a common condition affecting “Depending on what symptoms they present perhaps 16 million Americans or more. with, this may affect our choice of therapy (e.g. tetracycline [versus] doxycycline), and “Therefore co-occurrence does not we sometimes refer our patients to necessarily imply pathophysiologic gastroenterologists for further examinations association,” Dr. Baldwin says. “On the other and management,” he says. hand, rosacea, like psoriasis, is a chronic They found rosacea patients were 46% more likely than controls to have celiac disease; 45% more likely to have Crohn's disease; 19% more prone to ulcerative colitis; and had a 34% higher rate of irritable bowel syndrome.

inflammatory disease and an association between cardiovascular disease and psoriasis has been repeatedly reported. Inflammation surely plays a prominent role in atherosclerosis, inflammatory bowel disease, rheumatoid arthritis and many neurologic disorders; so, scientific rationale for purported association is evident.” “The efficacy of doxycycline in the treatment of rosacea is well documented. Several reports have suggested that it may also be of benefit in the treatment and prevention of various cardiovascular ailments,” she says. “In my practice, concerns regarding antibiotic resistance leads me to prescribe subantimicrobial doses of doxycycline for my patients with rosacea. I believe that in the absence of conclusive data, it is prudent to treat rosacea patients with associated inflammatory disorders with antiinflammatory doses of doxycycline.” Dr. Egeberg and colleagues are planning experimental studies to elucidate the role of the gastrointestinal microbiome in rosacea. If successful, he says, such studies could potentially lead to the discovery of new treatment targets in the management of rosacea.

Laser-based dermatological procedures could be revolutionised with new technique THE first laser treatments used to treat skin conditions such as benign vascular birthmarks and port-wine stains were developed more than 40 years ago. Since then, clinicians and dermatologists have seen a rise in demand for minimally invasive laser-based treatments, including tattoo removal. However, it is difficult for the laser light, which is held at a distance from the skin, to be perfectly and selectively absorbed by only the targeted birthmark or tattoo. Now, researchers from the University of Missouri have developed instruments that transmit laser light into the tissue through direct contact. The techniques developed by the interdisciplinary team can be used by dermatologists and will reduce safety concerns in laser dermatology by improving laser transmission through surface layers of the skin.

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Laser techniques come with risks, including eye damage. Open-air transmission, in which the clinician holds the laser at a distance from the patient, is typical during normal dermatological procedures and presents a hazard to both the patients' and doctors' eyes. Paul J.D. Whiteside, a doctoral candidate in the MU Division of Food Systems and

Bioengineering, devised a system that will not only improve the process, but will be safer for both clinicians and patients. "The new system that has recently been developed uses ultrasonic pulsation in conjunction with a clinical laser to alter the properties of skin tissues during the procedure," Whiteside said. "We've named the technique 'sonoillumination,' and we're

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hopeful that the procedure will be available widely in the near future." Whiteside and his team, including adviser, Heather K. Hunt, an assistant professor of bioengineering in the MU College of Engineering, tested the sonoillumination system on porcine skin tissue samples. Using various amplitudes and pulses, the instruments they developed were tested on the samples and showed great promise for the clinical setting. Whiteside presented his technique to clinicians on April 9, 2017, at the annual conference of American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery (ASLMS). A close-up of the specialised waveguide that helps deliver laser light with higher accuracy, efficacy and safety than its predecessors. Credit: Stephen Schmidt, CAFNR.

“Pork skin samples are very close to human skin samples, so the initial results we saw are promising for human applications," Hunt said. "'Sonoillumination' will be extremely beneficial for clinicians and the ASLMS presentation allowed us to demonstrate the system to the people who actually will be using the technology once it's commercialised." Nicholas Golda, associate professor of dermatology and director of dermatology surgery at the MU School of Medicine, echoed the merits of the sonoillumination system and the effect it will have on dermatology. "Our goal is to provide patients with safer, more effective treatment options that potentially lower the number of treatments needed," Golda said. "This new technology

may also provide physicians with a safer, more controllable option for treating patients." The team co-authored the paper Ultrasonic modulation of tissue optical properties in ex vivo porcine skin the improve transmitted transdermal laser intensity, which recently was accepted for publication by the society's journal, Lasers in Surgery and Medicine. The sonoillumination research was funded in part by a 2015 Fast Track grant from the University of Missouri System. More information on the patent application for sonoillumination please see www.google.com/patents/US20150351841.

DR GOOGLE PROBABLY ISN'T THE WORST PLACE TO GET YOUR HEALTH ADVICE WHO is your preferred source for health advice? While there are numerous wouldbe experts on social medial the last time we checked, Facebook wasn't a peer-reviewed medical website, but that doesn't seem to matter as it is estimated that 20% of the public use it for health advice. The sheer volume of online health information now at our fingertips is both a blessing and a curse. How do you determine what is right and what is outright dangerous? Even published peer-reviewed literature is no longer guaranteed to be untarnished – the rise of predatory publishing has muddied the waters to the point where an advanced degree in science or medicine is needed to separate the wheat from the chaff. Never mind that most peer-reviewed information is locked away behind paywalls, meaning the average person has is obliged to pay a fee just for the privilege of reading it. WHERE ARE WE GETTING HEALTH ADVICE? The proliferation of misleading health advice online is worrying because a recent survey reported almost four out of five Australians (78%) now use the internet to source health information. Slightly more frightening is that three out of five people (58%) admitted they Google health information to avoid seeing a health professional, not to mention skincare experts. This should come as no surprise to anyone – just about all of us now walk

around with the internet in our pockets. Googling health information is cheaper, faster, more convenient and importantly (for some), discreet. And a quick search from the work bathroom avoids the embarrassment of providing intimate details to a stranger.

as asthma, measles and flu, and provide basic information about the condition under three tabs – “about”, “symptoms” and “treatment”. These cards have been welcomed by doctors in the US and Australia alike, with the former reportedly downloading them to present to patients.

Google knows this. Which is where Dr Google's symptom checker and health condition cards come in.

The interface has a share button, the option to download the information to a PDF (to print out and take to your doctor), and a “related conditions” tab. You can access the symptom checker from the Google app and the health cards from both the app and browser.

NEW AND IMPROVED DR GOOGLE The symptom checker is available on the Google app and works by you typing or talking in a string of symptoms. For example, if you type “hacking cough, headache” Google returns “flu, common cold, upper respiratory infection” under a tab called “health conditions related to this search”. You can then click on those headings to be taken to a health card. The health cards, launched in Australia last month, cover around 900 conditions, such

These innovations are in response to the proliferation of pseuodo-scientific and downright shonky advice that exists on Google. And while the tools are constantly being improved, they're not perfect.

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For example, given symptoms can be vague, and are often shared across several conditions, Google suggested I either had

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“cold, flu, meningitis or Yellow Fever” when I information from a swathe of sources and typed in “backache, fever, headache”. So transforms it into an easily understood format. clearly, some level of discretion is advised. However, Google has gone one step further – The search engine giant is mindful of the it has collaborated with Harvard Medical potential for these tools to falsely reassure School and the Mayo Clinic in the USA to people about their health or, on the contrary, check the accuracy of returned results. In alarm them unnecessarily. They emphasise addition, the curation effort will soon extend the advice returned is not a substitute for a further to ask people who use symptom check face-to-face consultation with your general how its results can be improved. All of which combines to return significantly better results practitioner. than those retrieved by a standard, nonWhat's important here is the reliability of the curated, Google search. information returned by Google, and it seems to have that covered. Symptom checker is Whether we like it or not, people are going to informed mostly by Knowledge Graph, the continue to search for health information and Google-made database tool that aggregates advice online. This move by Google to

provide accurate, reliable health advice on page one of search results should be applauded. At the least, consumers can now find curated information from the Mayo Clinic rather than Dr Oz. It is quite evident that consumers will be able to access solid educational data. This will also create pressure not just for medical practitioners, but also for aesthetics professionals to ensure their information is current and up-to-date as it would be embarrassing if clients are more informed on new educational information than practitioners.

GAINING WEIGHT IN MIDDLE AGE IS NOW CONSIDERED TO BE ASSOCIATED WITH AN ENZYME IT'S common for people to pack on more kilos as they age, but now a new study may have an explanation for this weight gain — and it has nothing to do with exercise or poor food choices. Researchers identified an enzyme that appears to increase its activity in animals as they age. The increase in this enzyme's activity may play a role in the weight gain and fitness decline that come with ageing, they said. In experiments in mice on a high-fat diet, the researchers found that mice that had this enzyme blocked gained less weight than normal mice. "Our society attributes the weight gain and lack of exercise at mid-life, primarily to poor lifestyle choices and lack of will power," study author Dr. Jay Chung, head of the Laboratory of Obesity and Ageing Research at the National Heart, Lung, and Blood Institute, said in a statement. "But this study shows that there is a genetic program driven by an overactive enzyme that promotes weight gain and loss of exercise capacity at mid-life," Chung said. Because the new study was conducted in mice, researchers don't yet know if blocking this enzyme in humans will have the same effect. But the researchers said that, with further research, the findings could potentially lead to the development of new weight loss medications that would block this enzyme. Chung said he has always been puzzled by the tendency of adults to gain weight as they

age — the average American gains 30 pounds from ages 20 to 50, even though people don't usually eat more food during this period, he said. Chung and his colleagues looked for molecular changes that occurred in animals during middle age and found that an enzyme called DNA-dependent protein kinase, or DNA-PK, increases in activity with age. Their research showed that this enzyme is involved in metabolism (such as the conversion of nutrients to fat) and in the production of mitochondria, or the "powerhouses" in cells that turn nutrients into energy. It's known that as people age, they see a drop in the number of mitochondria. In the study, the researchers found that giving mice that were on a high-fat diet a drug that inhibits DNA-PK led to a weight gain in those mice that was 40 per cent less,

compared to mice that were also on this diet but didn't receive the drug. In addition, mice that received the drug saw an increase in the number of mitochondria in their skeletal muscle cells, and experienced increased aerobic fitness. "Our studies indicate that DNA-PK is one of the drivers of the metabolic and fitness decline that occurs during ageing, which makes staying lean and physically fit difficult" in older age, Chung said. However, the researchers noted that the findings don't mean people should abandon diet and exercise as they get older, since these are still the primary tools for fighting obesity. Middle-age adults should continue with these practices, even if it takes a while to see results, they said. The study was published in the May issue of the journal Cell Metabolism.

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Original article on Live Science. 0

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IS GLUTEN-FREE DIETS GOOD FOR EVERYBODY? GLUTEN-FREE diets are popular these days, but a new study finds that avoiding gluten won't lower your risk of heart disease and they are not beneficial for everybody, especially for someone who is not gluten intolerant. In fact, the researchers say that gluten-free diets could pose health concerns because people who go gluten free tend to lower their intake of whole grains, an ingredient that is linked with a lower risk of heart disease. For this reason, "the promotion of gluten-free diets among people without celiac disease should not be encouraged," the researchers concluded in their article, published in the May medical journal BMJ. Celiac disease is an autoimmune condition that makes people sick if they eat gluten. Still, for people who have gluten-sensitivity, meaning they don't have celiac disease, but they experience abdominal pain, or other problems when they eat gluten, it is reasonable to restrict gluten intake, with some precautions, said study researcher Dr. Andrew T. Chan, an associate professor of medicine at Harvard Medical School in Boston. "It is important to make sure that this gluten restriction is balanced with the intake of nongluten containing whole grains, since these are associated with a lower risk of heart disease," Chan confirmed.

generally healthier. But no long-term studies have examined whether gluten affects the risk of chronic conditions such as coronary heart disease, in people without celiac disease, the researchers said. In the new study, researchers analysed information from a long-running study of more than 110,000 U.S. health professionals. The participants periodically answered questions, over a 26-year period, about the types of food they consumed. Based on these questionnaires, the researchers estimated how much gluten participants' consumed in their diet. The researchers also collected data on whether participants experienced a heart attack during the study, which was considered a proxy for the development of coronary heart disease.

The researchers also found that gluten intake actually initially appeared to be linked with a lower risk of heart attack. But this link wasn't due to gluten consumption itself, rather, it was due to the consumption of whole grains associated with gluten intake. "These findings do not support the promotion of a gluten-restricted diet with a goal of reducing coronary heart disease risk," the researchers wrote in their paper.

The researchers also noted that they did not specifically ask participants whether they followed a gluten-free diet, but rather, calculated their gluten consumption based on the estimated proportion of gluten in wheat, rye and barley. The researchers also were not able to determine whether trace amounts of gluten were present in certain foods, such as When the researchers divided participants soy sauce, but this would likely have only a Gluten is a protein found in wheat, rye and into five groups based on the amount of gluten very small effect on people's overall gluten barley. In people with celiac disease, the they ate, they found those in the group that ate consumption, they said. protein triggers an immune reaction that the most gluten were at no greater risk for a damages the lining of the small intestine. heart attack than those in the group that ate the Ref: Original article on Live Science. Some people without the condition adopt the least gluten. diet in the belief that gluten-free diets are

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