APJ Vol 32 2017

Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS Journal The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812

Autumn Volume Volume 32. 2017

Autumn Issue Volume 32.

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CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS

Launches new state-of-the-art treatment range

BioPhyto SCIENCE MEETS NATURE to create products with unique qualities and outstanding results, defending the skin's immunityy and restoring life to damaged skin.

A breakthrough series of clean chemistry products, puts technology in the service of skin repair and rejuvenation.

Recent advances in biotechnology enable a highly efficient ficient extraction of active ingredients from plants that allows science to harness the maximum potency of their inherent, natural and skinrestorative properties. Christina combined all these high-end, innovative extracts to produce BioPhyto – the ultimate ate answer is skin balance!

The unique BioPhyto formulas ensure highly personalised treatments for all skin types and provide solutions fo fforr multiple skin conditions. The skin regains its natural beauty and emerges more vibrant than ever before.

With Christina's BioPhyto, a beautiful skin is a healthylooking skin.

BioPhyto offers the following results: ·

Detoxification – Detoxifies and

defends against the formation of new toxins, helping to prevent premature skin ageing, while maintaining the normal, well-balanced function of skin cells. ·

Blood Flow and Oxygen Consumption –

Optimal blood flow enhances oxygen and nutrients to revitalise and purify the skin. Proper cellular oxygen consumption is a sign of efficient metabolic activity. ·

Normalisation – Sebum secretion and keratin synthesis are controlled.

The skin is free of redness and blemishes, even-toned and ideally moisturised.

·

Cell Replenishment and Rehabilitation of Skin Barrier –

BioPhyto products nourish the cells, moderating protein and lipid synthesis, boosting resilience and leading to significant, immediately visible improvement in the skin’s appearance.

BioPhyto – Offering Skin Restoration and Balance to Perfection.

For obligation-free information please contact SKIN FACTORS Ph: 1800 824 282 or email info@skinfactors.com.au

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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS 8-9 Heart-2-Heart 34-37 Profile of an Industry Luminary 38-42 Tips for Better Business 52-54 Product Innovations 86-91 Aesthetic Industry Bulletin 94-96 A New Generation Practitioner 104-107 Scientific News

REGULATIONS, EDUCATION & TRAINING 17 24-26 32-33 64-65 92-93 97 103

APAN Professional Development – Advanced Eyebrow Techniques Regaining Confidence after Breast Cancer Microblading and Regulations – The Australian Industry Position Advanced Course: Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetics Gaining the Perfect Pout APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner (R) Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner (CTARP)

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 18-20

The Powerful Healing Properties of Damask Rose for Skin and Body 28-29 Is Epigenetics the Next Ire in Anti-Ageing Skincare?

44-50 Oxidative Therapy for improving wellbeing 48-50 The Healing Process of a Cosmetic Tattoo Procedure 68-70 The Transdermal Delivery of Peptide Creams 85 Book Review: Good + Well 98-101 Inflammation Leads to Inflammageing 108-109 Gut Health and its relevance to skin disorders 110-112 Holy Basil and its amazing adaptogen properties 114-116 Remedies for Improving Sagging Skin after Weight loss and for Ageing skin 119-121 Why Zinc is Important for your skin and health BUSINESS AND PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 22-23 60-61

Let your Business Shine Is Management and Employee Disconnect Damaging Your Bottom-Line?

72-75 Compassion – How to activate your brain's caring centre 76-78 Mastering the Principles of Successful Business Growth 80-83 Nutritional and Naturopathic Programs – The new frontier in achieving leading skin treatment outcomes and beyond 113 Choosing the right Social media Channels for your Practice 117-118 How to overcome Procrastination

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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 14-16 56-58 79

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APJ REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS TERRY EVERITT Terry Everitt is regarded as a 'Master Skincare Professional' due to his extensive knowledge of the art and science of skincare. A very competent educator and regular lecturer on aesthetic and medical conferences where he presents up-to-date information from an evidence-based scientific perspective. Terry is the Director of Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd. To contact Terry you can email him aestheticeductors@gmail.com.

CAROLINE NELSON Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years industry experience. She specialises and is passionate in helping clinics and spas develop their brand, improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 041 0600 440.

GAY WARDLE Gay Wardle is a well-known multi-awarding winning industry expert and a renowned lecturer who conducts advanced skin analysis training for businesses and their staff on all issue pertaining to skin science. If you would like you and your staff to undertake training with Gay please contact her on 0418 708 455 or book on-line www.gaywardle.com.au. You can also email her on gay@m-da.com.au

SUZANNE SPARROW-CRISP Suzanne Sparrow-Crisp is the Director of The Sparrow Group, specialists in tailor-made insurance for salons and clinics. They provide excellent cover and peace of mind to businesses and beyond. Sue is passionate about education and is committed to helping simplify the often complex subject of insurance through regular articles and lectures. You can contact Sue on 07 5502 8326 or Email: sue@thesparrowgroup.com.au

DR ZAC TURNER Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background specialising in regenerative, aesthetic and cosmetic medicine. Aesthetically, Dr Zac feels that a natural look is best, and truly believes that his “less-is-more� approach using perfectly placed products gives the optimum outcomes. Over the past few years Dr Zac has become involved in both the men's health and preventative health space. He is passionate about this as he sees prevention and body optimisation as the ultimate way to prevent chronic disease, obesity, and many other conditions. He has owned and currently involved with clinics in the holistic health arena and believes that through a holistic assessment of someone's health we can enable them to live longer, healthier, and happier. You can contact Dr Zac by Email: zac@drzac.co 100

TRISH HAMMOND Trish Hammond is an award-winning Blogger and Social Media expert and the Director of Plastic Surgery Hub. She is renowned for her skilful writing and interviews in all facets of the Social Media space. Her company specialises in the Aesthetics, Cosmetic Surgery and Cosmetic Medicine industry sectors for which she provides personalised and comprehensive services to help businesses communicate powerfully, grow their brand and capture new clients and patients. If you would like to speak to Trish about her services please contact her on 0429 264 811 or Email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au.

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EDITOR’SNOTE

What's really important anyway...

THIS is the first issue of APJ for 2017 and while the year is truly under way, our aim is to ensure that we provide you with the tools and inspiration to ensure that this year is even better than last year.

As you know, APJ is the official journal of APAN. It is therefore backed and supported by a strong mission of an industry organisation that is dedicated to making this industry better. We aim to achieve that by providing our members with positive inspiration, as well pathways to better education and standards. We are passionate in supporting you to achieve best practice at all levels of your operations. To achieve this it is important that you tap into quality information and knowledge that will inspire you to keep evolving and growing. Stagnation is dangerous, if it is more than a temporary pause. So let's stay active and embrace change towards growth this year and beyond.

"Do I need to change?" you ask. It depends. We are the product of all our previous choices. That can be good news, or bad news. If we like where we are at, we just need to continue in the same direction.

That's the good news. On the other hand, if we don't like where we are at and continue in the same direction, we will get the same bad results. That's the bad news. However, if we don't like the results, we can change direction. With a changed direction, the results also change. That's the REALLY good news.

I had an interesting conversation recently with a very ambitious member who had a passion for perfection and was determined to ensure that her staff adhered to the very highest standards. She insisted that being perfect is a condition to being accepted by others. Apparently she listened well to her teachers as a child. I heard the echoes of the "Oh, you got 97% on your exam? What happened to the other 3%?"

We are sometimes told to strive for the top and nothing less than that is good enough. How sad. Especially since only a few can ever get to the "top", wherever the top is.

I won't argue with the want to be superb at what we do. I think that it is good to strive for excellence. However, linking perfection with acceptance is a sure way to drive ourselves and others crazy. There are perfect, unaccepted, people. There are tons of imperfect, yet widely admired people. Being human comes with making mistakes now and then. Especially at the start of a new project. Forget perfect. Encourage your staff to be the BEST they can be and you will foster a happy and productive team. Chances are they will even be liked MORE! The point, my friends is for us to make progress an inspirational journey and not a demanding chore. That way we will most like achieve loyalty from our staff and the road to progress and prosperity may not be as painful. It's all about keeping things in correct perspective. We all know how to run our businesses, sometimes all we need is to re-examine the intent of our focus – stay kind, caring and supportive of others and foster trust and collaboration with all we engage with within our business world. It's not just about strategy – it is also about attitude.

In this issue of APJ we have a wonderful collection of educational articles to inspire you and to offer great information to also educate your clients. They look to you not just for results, but also for human interaction and for credible, professional knowledge. We are here to advocate your credibility and to fuel your passion to be your very Follow Tina on best.

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APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com APAN Office Email: info@apanetwork.com

AESTHETIC

http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page http://www.facebook.com/laserandipl?fret=ts

Enjoy this issue of APJ.

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Editor Tina Viney Phone: (07) 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com

Welcome to APJ

Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd

Design & Production Artwork and Editorial Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Shop7D 76-84 Robina Town Centre Drive Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Mobile: 0412 177 423 Email: info@kharis.com

Printed for Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia

Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt – Education features Wendy Neely – PR and Marketing Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific content Caroline Nelson – Business Features

National Advisory Council John Fergusson Terry Everitt Bill Anton Gill Fish Vanessa Kirkham Maureen Houssein-Mustafa

ISSN: 1836-9812 Print Post Approved [100000257]

Circulation 6900

FRONT COVER VOGUE IMAGE GROUP Phone: 1800 554 545 (03) 9821 0033 Email: info@vogueimage.com.au For further information see pages 10-11 The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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Heart-to-Heart A message from the President and CEO WE are so excited about 2017 here at APAN. Our focus this year will be to build collaborative alliances with other likeminded organisations as our objective is to forge forward towards a better future for the industry. At this present time we are looking at establishing a collaborative relationship with the Australian Cosmetic Tattoo Association so that we can work together in securing a better future for this sector of the profession.

APAN's main strength is regulations and we are pursuing the appropriate channels as well as establishing our own initiatives that will best serve the interests of the industry now and into the future. However, in order to succeed we need to work hand-in-hand with other industry bodies in a united approach. The Government is constantly encouraging us to define the industry standards through a self-regulatory mode and give them clear indications of what it is that will best serve us.

DON'T FIGHT YOUR BATTLES ALONE While I understand that individuals target Government licensing bodies and health departments with their complaints, the correct approach is to present their concerns to industry Associations such as APAN. Why is that?

It is important to understand that Government departments may listen to you, however, they are less likely to act on anything you say as an individual. They usually look to industry bodies for major decisions. If you approach APAN our responsibility is to present a clear and concise industry report that represents the views of not just one business and its interests, but of a community of practice. We are required to gain accurate data on what is needed, survey the industry for opinions and present a well-documented report based on the collective industry feedback and investigations that presents not just the needs, but also makes recommendations on solutions. If we do not put forward solutions, we will get

whatever the Government thinks we need. This is why we need you to put forward your suggestions to us.

HELP US TO HELP YOU This year APAN will be circulating several surveys to the industry. I urge you to participate in these when you get the chance. Please take the time to give us your feedback as the collective intelligence of these surveys will allow us to put forward recommendations that will best suit your needs.

We are entering a interesting time in our industry's history when pressure will continue to come from all directions as different interest groups will attempt to take exclusive ownership of the rights to practice certain procedures. There is a real threat and we need to act wisely and strategically to secure the rights of aestheticians and cosmetic tattooists to continue to practice what they love doing. Regulatory measures will definitely include educational standards as a prerequisite, so if you are considering upgrading your qualifications I strongly encourage you to do so. I can guarantee you that in three to four years this industry will look substantially different. Take my word for it.

If you are not a member of APAN this is the time to invest in joining our community of practice. Basic Gold Membership is just $495 and you can pay it progressively over a 12-month period. This fee is equivalent to one or two procedures. However, it will allow us to continue to fight for you as well as allow you to be the first beneficiary of any advances that this industry will achieve. It will also give you a voice to ensure that your concerns can be appropriately channelled through a professional body that is actively doing something about it.

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Don't let anyone fool you. Regulation is a very specialised and complex area that requires knowledge, skill and finances

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Nikos Kazantzakis | www.geckoandfly.com

NOBODY SETS THE RULES BUT YOU.

resourceful information we are posting.

Also share your opinions and view. http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page I do hope I will get to see many of you at our conference events, or our workshops.

We will be conducting a cosmetic tattoo workshops in Adelaide, as well as introducing the Advanced Anaesthetic Course delivered by Compound Chemist Chris Testa in Brisbane. If you have complete the first course, you can now enrol for the advanced course. Do not underestimate the value of this training. It is strategic and we are planning a higher objective for it for the benefit of the industry.

From the bottom of my heart I wish you a wonderful and successful year. We value and appreciate you and will continue to fight for your interests.

YOU CAN AND SHOULD DESIGN YOUR OWN LIFE. Carrie-Ann Moss

to pursue, not to mention on-going determination and a great deal of patience.

You are an individual practitioner or business owner, but you are also part of a professional community. Your future partially will depend on the individual choices and decision you make in your own business and professional environment, but don't neglect or underestimate that your voice is also extremely important and valuable to ensure the right changes are made to the profession as a whole.

Again this year APAN will be conducting three

AESTHETICS CONFERENCES – Adelaide May 28th, Brisbane July 30 and Melbourne September 24. Please prioritise to attend at least one of these events. They are very unique in content and their focus is about inspiring you and empowering you for today as well as protecting your future.

Stay connected with APAN as together we forge ahead towards improving our standards, growing our knowledge and securing a stronger future.

If you are not a current member or you have allowed your membership to laps please take action now. Visit www.apanetwork.com and complete an application form. Alternatively, you can phone me direct on 07 55930 360 or email me your phone number so that I can contact you. Also please note that APAN has amalgamated all its Facebook pages to one dynamic page with a strong educational focus. This is for your benefit so please join us and benefit from the

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COVERSTORY CONSISTENTLY at the forefront of new generation anti-ageing formulas, in 2009 SKEYNDOR was the first company to formulate a product range using concentrated Swiss Apple Stem Cells to target the passage of time.

This sophisticated technology achieved what no other had achieved to date – successfully making the Swiss Apple Stem Cells compatible with the skin.

As a result, SKEYNDOR was awarded the European Academy of Cosmetics Prize for the most innovative active ingredient.

They aptly called this breakthrough line, ETERNAL. These pioneers, champions and leaders in skincare are renowned globally for Innovation in Science that they cleverly combine with the Luxury Factor.

Fast forward to 2017, they have now broken through the technological barrier with the launch of their revolutionary line, Timeless Prodigy, a new dimension in the skincare frontier that addresses every nuance of ageing - it's future perfect.

Going beyond aesthetics, Timeless Prodigy answers the challenge of reversing the passing of time and represents the biggest breakthrough in anti-ageing to date.

SKEYNDOR TIMELESS PRODIGY –

A FIRST IN MULTI-GENIC TECHNOLOGY RE-ACTIVATING YOUTH IN THE GENES

The line provides the skin with the ingredients that are A 100% rejuvenated skin appearance explicitly proficient and capable of restoring a youthful A 100% softening in wrinkling A 91% improvement in state and appearance of the skin and, genetic profile to ageing skin.

A 90% improvement in tone and radiance As a result of SKEYNDOR's research and their discovery, the active Timeless Prodigy formula was created. The line has a Timeless Prodigy features three specific and groundhigh level of effectiveness and is capable of regulating the breaking rejuvenation strategies: numerous genes connected with cellular ageing. ! Cell Genesis Activators to target and build volume and density Scientists at SKEYNDOR's R+D with 50 years in research !

Cell Quality Perfectors to address skin firmness and have gained unprecedented insight into the molecular and vitality and, physiological processes of skin ageing. They have identified ! Cell Functioning Enhancers whose goal is brightness the many variants related to the main functions of ageing skin and even skin tone. including, for example, anti-oxidative capacity, collagen breakdown and collapse, elasticity structure and hydration Together, this pioneering approach stimulates a youthful ability. genetic appearance, slows down cellular ageing and aids in recovering a more youthful expression.

Scientifically conducted results on Timeless Prodigy revealed: In addition to the outstanding rejuvenation strategies, the Timeless Prodigy line combines an extraordinary complex of

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plant origin ingredients with multi-genic action. Together they have the ability to successfully reduce the ageing aspects of skin cells and turn back the clock.

The Timeless Prodigy formula includes: Five growth factors acting to repair and rejuvenate, significantly softening the appearance of lines and wrinkles, redensifying the skin and stimulating the formation of brand new cells.

50 million Damask Rose Stem Cells to renew and invigorate the epidermis, strengthen, increase the firmness and elasticity of the skin and boost brightness.

The addition of White Truffle, known at SKEYNDOR as 'The White Diamond' for its remarkably efficient antioxidant effect. It vastly improves and maintains hydration levels and intensifies nourishment.

PROFESSIONAL AND RETAIL PRODUCTS The line features a salon-based professional treatment and two homecare products – The Serum and The Cream.

Caressing the skin, both home-care maintenance products contain an ultra-sophisticated and exclusive fragrance from the Damask Rose family with the top notes of Bergamot and Wild Raspberry, the exquisite hues of Jasmine and Magnolia and the alluring touches of Patchouli, all set in a base of Amber and Musk.

The Serum features the ultimate in texture and an unexpected sensory experience that brings immediate softness, comfort and hydration to the epidermis. Its light, airy and velvety finish uniquely adapts to any skin type. Featuring a concentrated formula of 15 powerful and active ingredients, including Growth Factors, Proteoglycans, Piedmont White Truffle and the revitalising power of 50 million Damask Rose Stem Cells for an extraordinary rejuvenating effect. Add to this list, micro-collagen bioactive, A, B and C Vitamins and Tea Kombucha.

The Cream is a lavish anti-ageing cream with its more than 10 powerful active ingredients, including Growth Factors, Proteoglycans, which provide hydration due to their immense water-binding capacity. They also act as connective tissue organisers, influencing and regulating fibroblast production.

It also contains the legendary and luxurious Piedmont White Truffle recognised for its highly prized anti-oxidant power.

Containing Vitamins, trace elements and Amino Acids, it offers complete care for the skin. Boosting DNA repair this ingredient, amongst other functions, also boosts firmness and radiance. The jewel in the crown is the addition of 50 million Damask Rose Stem Cells that aid in slowing down and delaying the ageing process and offer protection from UV damage.

Rich and lush, The Cream melts in to create a perfect 'second skin' effect and a pleasure to the senses. Restructuring, repairing and protecting the skin's outer layers it also comforts the most demanding epidermis.

For more information on the Avant garde TIMELESS PRODIGY and the future in skincare, please email info@vogueimage.com.au, call 1 800 554 545 or visit www.vogueimage.com.au.

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companyprofile

ULTRA AESTHETICS Leaders in Global Aesthetic Technologies Ultra Aesthetics is an Australian aesthetics medical healthcare company owned by Cryomed.

Ultra Aesthetics (UA) has partnered with global leaders in equipment manufacturing to provide cutting-edge technologies to meet the demands of the contemporary clinics.

UA offer an extensive range of highperformance devices including IPL, Lasers, including Q-Switched lasers as well as Pico Technology.

Josh Locker, Director of Ultra Aesthetics believes that UA's dominant strength, lies in their world leading skin tightening and body sculpting device's “ULFIT” and COOL4D .

Ultra Aesthetics (UA) work hand-in-hand to provide a complete solution for the aesthetic, cosmetic medical and antiageing services market. Ultra Aesthetics supplies to market state-of-the-art devices for anti-ageing and non-invasive enhancement, in addition to the latest dermatological products from around the globe. UA caters specifically for medispas and aesthetic clinics.

Behind Ultra Aesthetics is a team of enthusiastic, highly skilled clinicians, engineers and sales people who work closely with clients to provide in-depth, device and product training to ensure the best possible clinical outcome.

Devices include the new star performer – Ulfit lift – an advanced skin tightening technology capable of treating all areas of the face and body, and achieving impressive skin tightening benefits. UlfitLift is specifically developed for the clinic and medispa environment. For clinicians and operators it is easy and effective to use, and for patients it is a comfortable procedure that achieves immediate results as well as ongoing improvement.

Ultra Aesthetics' point-of-difference is that it provides leading, well-designed, safe and affordable equipment and products that are easy to operate; offering comfortable and well-tolerated treatments that deliver excellent clinical outcomes.

"Our drive for strong customer/client relations stems from our core commitment to improving the products and services within the Australasian medical and aesthetic market. We offer progressive aesthetic solutions that can be easily realised and deliver wonderful clinical results with a high return on investment," Josh stated.

WE GUARANTEE:

!

!

! !

Excellent training and education delivered by skilled and highly qualified clinicians Cutting-edge, well designed and easy to operate devices offering excellent treatment outcomes Efficient and reliable, ongoing support Leading marketing support and staff education on how to create successful client or patient conversions and business growth.

With Ultra Aesthetics you can expect the very best state-of-the art technologies, credible, trustworthy and reliable training, support and service ensuring you can more easily reach your business goals.

Other diverse technologies available through Ultra Aesthetics Go to www.ultraa.com.au or call 1800 455 441 for further details include - Refit RF, COOL4D Fat Freeze, Primelase HR, Etherea IPL and experience the Ultra Aesthetics point-of-difference. and Dr Light LED.

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Forehead Periorbital

o ti on

m ar

the little giant reshaping face & body

l cu r i c Non-stop

Eyebrows Wrinkles Cheek V-line forming Jowl line Double chin

✓ portable & versatile ✓ face lifting ✓ skin tightening ✓ body contouring ✓ Ground-breaking HIFU technology ✓ more comfortable & efficient ✓ immediate & long-lasting results

Neck Décolletage Back Love Handles Abdomen Buttocks Thighs

Ownership options to suit your business: Outright purchase: $45,000+GST Finance/rental option: $1,095/month* ULFIT weighs just over 8kg, and measures a tiny 360 (D) x 460 (W) x 150 (H) mm.

* based on 60 month/ nil balloon term

Call 1800 455 441 | Email info@ultraa.com.au

You owe it to yourself to 1800 455 441 |

259UV1 APJ Mag Ad_Ulfit_R7.indd 1

your clients

www.ultraa.com.au | info@ultraa.com.au

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Adelaide, it's your turn to be spoilt as the first APAN Aesthetics Conference in 2017 will be staged on May 28th in Adelaide. We have an amazing program for you with world-class speakers that promises to inspire and motivate you with a high-quality education that will transform how you view your practice and your business.

APAN is highly committed to educational excellence and we want you to benefit from the very best. We always look after you with a wonderful fun atmosphere, glorious food and power-packed quality speakers.

Wait until you see what we have for you? Join us and make 2017 your best year yet.

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TOPIC: HOW TO ACHIEVE LEADING RESULTS WITH YOUR IPL AND LASER SPEAKER: Mark Stewart TIME: 9.00am – 9.45am New advanced in light-based technologies, especially laser and IPL, have revolutionised the aesthetics industry. However, with the continued expansion of cosmetic medicine the competition for clients and patients is becoming fierce. Knowing how to achieve leading efficacious treatment outcomes is fundamentally critical to the continued success of both practitioners and businesses. This lecture will empower you to gain greater insight on how to achieve just that.

Mark Viney is a qualified educator and the Director of APAN. In this lecture he will present some of the contributing factors of how the beauty and aesthetics industry progressively moved away from defined standards. The impact this had, current activities in the regulatory space and what protective mechanisms we can expect in the future.

In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

What is the purpose of regulations What are the consequences of an unregulated industry What you can expect to benefit from them Why your involvement is important

Networking break 11.00am – 11.30am

TOPIC: WELLNESS IS BOOMING, IS YOUR BUSINESS READY? SPEAKER: Neil Owen Mark Stewart is a qualified technical officer having qualified with the TIME: 11.30am – 12.15pm Biomedical Engineering Department at the RAH, in 1985. He then went on to train on the first CO2 Surgical Laser in Australia. His extensive experience spans over 30 years. During that time he has worked with several manufacturers of Laser and IPL including Sharplan, Coherent, HGM, Laserscope, Convergent, Lumenis, Syneron/Candela, Cynosure and now Cutera.

Mark has witnessed firsthand the profound leading-edge advantages that Lasers/IPLs bring to the aesthetics market and welcomes the opportunity to share the excitement of some of these in his presentation.

In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

The key difference between laser and IPL Importance of spot size and depth of penetration for the best results Gain a better understanding of fluence Matching your target in the skin to your laser/IPL settings

Networking Break 9.45am – 10.15am (morning tea) TOPIC: PAST, PRESENT AND FUTURE IN AUSTRALIAN REGULATIONS SPEAKER: Mark Viney TIME: 10.15am – 11.00am With the constant advances in technology :procedures are targeting deeper layers of the skin and carry a higher level of risk.

This has created the need for regulatory updates. As an industry professional it is important that you understand both how regulations are framed and why and how they will impact you and your business. It is also important to know if no regulations are introduced how that will impact your profession and your business.

The wellness economy is now worth $3.7 trillion (US), it represents 5% of global economic output and is almost half the size of all global health expenditures.

Beauty and Anti-Ageing already makes up $1 trillion of this economy, however there are new opportunities to meet the needs of a booming wellness-oriented population. The concept of beauty being more than skin deep will continue to grow and opportunities exist for businesses in the aesthetics industry to cater for new and existing clients in this market space.

Neil Owen is a highly experienced international spa, leisure and hospitality professional. He has managed several high profile operations including the Fairmont Southampton in Bermuda, Thermae Bath Spa in Bath, ONE Spa in Edinburgh and The Heritage in Ireland. He has worked in a number of consultancy roles within the spa and leisure industry and currently advises on a number of commercial developments on behalf of Spa Vision. Neil has an MBA from The University of Bath, has a degree in Sport and Human Movement Studies and holds Project Management qualifications. He is a qualified Sports Massage and Yoga therapist both of which he has practised and taught in the past. He has spoken at industry events and is a member of the Chartered Management Institute.

In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

Why your business (small or large) should consider developing your wellness offering New advances in the spa and wellness industry How to introduce body ‘experiences’ without the headaches Business development strategies incorporating wellbeing services for potential business growth and a point of difference to your competition

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LUNCH BREAK 12.15 – 1.15PM TOPIC: PRACTICE SUCCESS SPEAKER: Don Farnden TIME: 1.15pm – 2.00pm When it comes to business success there's a way of thinking, and there's a way of doing all things "business". It's a mindset best described by looking at the word BEHAVE. How you will "be" is directly associated with what you "have". If you're not achieving the results you would like then you need to look at how you are inside as it is all connected.

Don Farnden is renowned as one of Australia’s most respected Small Business Gurus. He is considered as a Master of boosting business and acknowledged as a unique and distinctive expert in the fields of small business development techniques, performance enhancement, and in maximising the business owner’s most precious asset – TIME as well as their personal performance. In his lecture Practice Success, Don will bring clarity by uncovering what you need to know to achieve and gain both business success and growth.

In this lecture you will learn:

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How to gain a comprehensive understanding of the Full Spectrum Business Model Gain the knowledge of how to get results through organisation and accountability Learn how to systemise everything for best results Achieve better clarity on YOU and the work you do

NETWORKING BREAK 2.00pm – 2.30pm

AFTERNOON TEA & NETWORKING BREAK 3.15pm – 3.45pm TOPIC: THE POWER OF DESIGN SPEAKER: Agatha Ozhylovski TIME: 3.45pm – 4.30pm People are good at expressing what they want, what they like, and even how much they will pay for an item, product, or a service. But what they aren't good at is accessing where that value comes from, how and when it will influenced in making purchasing decisions. This is where a nascent field of neuroscience combined with architectural interior design comes into play. Neuro-science is a new tool used to determine why we prefer some products, companies and /or services over others, and why are we so loyal to them. Architectural interior decoration and design puts these studies into practice creating emotionally intelligent environments to further affirm your business culture. What does your business say about you? What message are you giving your clients?

Agatha Ozhylovski from AgathaO House of Design is an internationally recognised and awarded interior designer. She will explain how raw brain data combined with architectural interior decoration and design is helping companies unlock the mysteries of consumer choice and obtain long term growth in an increasingly competitive business landscape.

In this lecture you will learn: ! What message are you giving to your clients when they enter your premises? ! As competition grows and many businesses provide the same services, how can you create a point of difference? ! How can you provide your clients both results as well as a unique experience? ! The power of colour and texture?

TOPIC: NEW ADVANCES IN SKIN CANCER DIAGNOSIS AND TREATMENTS SPEAKER: Dr ANNETTE PEARCE THE ULTIMATE LUXURY EXPERIENCE TIME: 2.30pm – 3.15pm Clients and patients visit your salon or clinic predominantly because they have skincare concerns. One of your primary duty-of-care is to ensure that you thoroughly investigate any presented lesions, to determine their origin, severity and whether they will require further investigation by referring them to a dermatologist. In particular cancer lesions can sometime be overlooked, if misunderstood. On the other hand, identifying a suspect lesion can potentially save their life.

Dr Annette Pearce is a Dermatologist (Skin Specialist) based at Adelaide Dermatology Associates where she has her practice in Henley Beach. Her areas of interest are skin cancer diagnosis and surgery, inflammatory dermatology (acne, eczema and psoriasis), autoimmune dermatology, infective dermatology, drug eruptions (including oncology), paediatric dermatology as well as hair and nails.

In this lecture she will present various types of cancer lesions and discuss both surgical and non-surgical technique as well as Australian and local statistics.

In this lecture you will learn:

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How to identify a suspect lesion The latest non-drug therapies Various dermatological technique for treating skin cancers New advances in dermatology

Why not take a break from your busy schedule and spoil yourself.

Visit the beautifully appointed The Playford Adelaide – MGallery by Sofitel, enjoy beautiful food and glorious accommodation, while you also attend the APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE.

Experience the very best of South Australia with the Memorable Moments Twilight Package run in partnership with Windy Point Restaurant – South Australian Restaurant of the Year, Best Tourism Restaurant and Best Contemporary Australian Restaurant. We have secured great affordable rates for our conference delegates and exhibitors. Join us and enjoy award-winning service and cuisine.

Official 5-star accreditation with a home away from home feel and focus on service excellence.

Adelaide is beautiful in Autumn and our conference program promises world-class speakers and an amazing inspirational and educational program that will give you just the boost you need. We always look after you with incredible food and an interesting array of companies through a small exhibition.

Join us for an wonderful day of inspiration and resourceful education and learning. Leading business strategies, the latest in dermatology, regulatory updates, and much more. Bring your staff along too. They will gain a wealth of knowledge and leave inspired and motivated.

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ACCOMMODATION BOOKINGS Ph (08) 8213 8888 25

To register for the conference visit www.apanetwork.com

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APJ 16

APAN PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT WORKSHOP

ADVANCED EYEBROW TECHNIQUES

Masterclass ADELAIDE Monday 29th May 2017 This is an instructional and hands-on training program that will allow cosmetic tattooists to master the latest, and most ADVANCED EYEBROW TECHNIQUES.

FULL DAY TRAINING with Tarnya Makarenko ! ! !

Hair Stoke Ombre – Power techniques Combination techniques

Course will include:

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Theoretical and supervised practical training ! Course training manuals ! Pigments ! Certificate of Attendance ! Meals and refreshments

You will need to bring:

! !

Your own cosmetic tattoo machine Model (some models will be provided)

REGISTER TODAY AS THERE ARE VERY LIMITED POSITIONS Cost: $1450 Location: to be advised Time: 9.30am – 4.30pm

Tarnya Makerenko is recognised nation-wide as one of the most talented and skilled cosmetic tattoo practitioners. Renowned for her amazing artistry and attention to details, Tarnya’s trademark is perfection in all her cosmetic tattoo procedures, but specifically for eyebrows.

With four national awards under her belt, most recently being Winner of the prestigious “Roslyn Norris, Award of Excellence in Advanced Cosmetic Tattooing” from the Association of Cosmetic Tattoo, Tarnya is acknowledged as one of the best throughout the industry.

Join us and learn from her amazing techniques.

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To register and for further details contact APAN Ph: 07 55930360 or visit: www.apanetwork.com and download a registration form.

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skinscience

THE POWERFUL HEALING PROPERTIES OF

Damask Rose for Skin and Body

By Tina Viney THERE would not be an essential oil that I love more than Damask Rose.

Pure and unadulterated Damask Rose combines the sweetest of aromas with a warm herbal undertones making it amazingly euphoric. There is nothing like it and I am delighted to profile its incredible and complex properties in this issue of APJ. If you can find a product that incorporates it in its formula, seriously invest in it.

The smell of a rose is one of those experiences that can ignite fond memories of young love and backyard gardens. But did you know that roses are more than a pretty smell? It's true, for they have therapeutic benefits that can help heal many health conditions.

HISTORICAL OVERVIEW Rose is a wonderful aphrodisiac with embedded beautifying roots dating back thousands of years. The all-natural power of Damask Rose Oil has been long documented, measured and appreciated in many ways throughout time. As we collectively move into a more health conscious future and diligently research nature's true secrets, we are unveiling a greater amount of knowledge and power about the wonderful Damask Rose Oil. In a brief walk down history we find references to the benefits of rose oil dating back more than 5000 years through great ancient civilisations such as Persia, Egypt, Greece and Rome. Classical cultures primarily placed value on the exclusivity and aesthetics of the rose, without truly understanding the complexity of the flower and its natural effect on the mood and its ability to enhance beauty.

The social elite grew roses as symbols of wealth, beauty, luxury and indulgence, while people of faith and healing, cultivated roses with a deeper understanding of its medicinal purposes. As the enlightened searched to understand this mysterious and beautiful flower its usage became even more widespread. As time passed, the use of essential rose oils increasingly shifted toward being used as both a sensual beautifying tonic and to heal a long list of ailments.

Today, Rosa Damescena is considered the queen of all roses. It has developed its reputation as having the most powerful and effective rose oil (Damask Rose Oil). Grown primarily for its healing power in select areas of the world such as the "Valley of the Roses" in Bulgaria, Rosa Damescena is as rare as it is valuable. In fact, Bulgarian Rose Damascena is considered as having the highest therapeutic constituents and is the most expensive in the world.

NOT ALL ROSE OILS ARE THE SAME There are hundreds of products containing rose fragrance. Because it is such a popular and deliciously aromatic, most of the time it is a synthesised, or even adulterated when extended with another compatible essential oil like Petigrain (made from distilling the rose twigs), or even geranium, which blends very well with rose and is often used as an extender, to keep the price down. The price tag will tell you if the rose contained in the product is pure and genuine as the extraction of rose essential is a very expensive exercise. This is because the fresh Damask Rose petals possess a very small quantity of essential oil. One kg of rose oil can be obtained from about 3000 kg of rose petals – that's a lot of roses! (Baser, 1992).

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APJ 18

If you wish to benefit from the therapeutic constituents of rose it is worth ensuring that the rose extract is authentic and genuine.

THERAPEUTIC BENEFITS The rich organic compound structure of Damask Rose Oil has been shown to contain many therapeutic properties, including antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, anti-septic, antispasmodic, anti-viral, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, hepatic (stimulates liver function), cicatrisant (promotes scar tissue formation), depurative (purifies blood), emmenagogue (eases menstruation), haemostatic (stops bleeding), laxative, nervous system sedative and stomachic.

Damask Rose Oil also soothes and harmonises the mind, while relieving depression, anger, grief, fear, nervous tension and stress. In appropriate concentrations, it has been used as a tonic for the heart, liver, stomach and uterus. Damask Rose Oil is also beneficial for poor blood circulation and heart ailments, such as heart palpitations, arrhythmia and high blood pressure.

It terms of the skin, Damask Rose Oil offers some amazing properties and I will profile those separately.

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION The medicinal functions of Damask Rose are partly attributed to their abundance of phenolics compound. Phenolics possess a wide range of pharmacological activities, such as antioxidants.

Research has isolated several components from flowers, petals and hips (seed-pot) of Rose Damascena including terpenes, glycosides, flavonoids, and anthocyanins.

This plant contains carboxylic acid, myrcene, vitamin C, kaempferol and quarcetin. Flowers also contain a bitter principle, tanning matter, fatty oil and organic acids.

Loghmani-Khouzani et al (2007) found more than 95 macro and micro-components in the essential oil of Rose Damascena. Among them, 18 compounds represented more than 95% of the total oil. The identified compounds were; β-citronellol (14.5-47.5%), nonadecane (10.5-40.5%), geraniol (5.5-18%), and nerol and kaempferol were the major components of the oil. Analyses of rose absolute showed that phenyl ethylalcohol (78.38%), citrenellol (9.91%), nonadecane (4.35%) and geraniol (3.71%) ethanol (0.00-13.43%), and heneicosane were the major compounds.

From a chemistry point of view, Damask Rose Oil has a complex composition of more than 300 organic compounds, and is considered one of the most complex natural substances on earth and therefore is often called nature's universal healer. As far as the skin is concerned it has no natural limits on its ability to tone, balance and heal skin. It is non-toxic, non-irritant, non-sensitising and tolerated by all skin types.

Studies have now proven that “junk” DNA is not an accident of nature but it is the part of each human that is constantly being modified by energy vibrations. With this in mind, it has been shown that we should try connecting to “good energies” through what we eat, breathe and absorb. Taking in as much good energy as possible has a vital impact on the level on which we vibrate.

Going one step further, the higher your frequency level, the healthier your body becomes. The frequency of a healthy body ranges anywhere from 62 to 78Hz (units of frequency) with a frequency lower than 50Hz increasing your risk for cancer.

Body frequency level can be changed by our thoughts, behaviours and the way we treat ourselves. A good example of our body's ability to change frequencies comes from a clinical study conducted on the effects of coffee.

Everything absorbed by us as well as things around us influences our vibration levels. If your diet consists of a high consumption of canned and processed foods which vibrate at 0Hz, then your frequency level will naturally go down making you vulnerable and unhappy.

On the other hand, consuming fresh produce (that range up to 15Hz), dry herbs (12 to 22Hz) and fresh herbs (20 to 27Hz) can improve your health by elevating your frequencies. All of these natural nutrients are not only beneficial to you, but also fall into the range of our natural body frequency.

Now let's look at the vibration impact of essential oils. Dramatic frequency numbers begin to appear when talking about essential oils which are the vital power of plants. Scientific research has shown that essential oils vibrate on the highest frequency levels known and can produce environments where no disease, bacteria or viruses can survive.

Most essential oil frequencies start at 52Hz and reach a maximum vibration of 320Hz which is the vibration of Damask Rose Oil. Damask Rose Oil emanates the highest energy vibration of all known oils. Studies have proven that a drop of essential oil placed on a human foot can deliver its information into each and every cell in your body within 21 minutes. Imagine the power of using a skin care line that is based on 100% pure and natural Damask Rose Oil and using it even just once a day.

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Several pharmacological studies have been performed on Damask Rose to evaluate their effects on the central nervous system (CNS) and found that the effects are quite extensive.

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THE ENERGY VIBRATIONS OF DAMASK ROSE Perceiving our world and everything inside it as only physical is nothing less than our inability to see that in reality everything is really made up of micro particles that are constantly moving (vibrating on certain frequency levels). We call this energy. Everything in our world is interconnected as energy waves interfere with each other and change constantly. When talking about change, it is necessary to note that only 10% of our DNA contains all of the necessary protein building information (considered the main function of DNA). The remaining 90% has been classified as “junk” DNA until recently.

Ethanolic extract of the flowering tops of Rose Damascena has been shown to possess a potent anti-depressant activity on CNS. Some of these effects that evaluated are hypnotic, anticonvulsant, antidepressant, anti-anxiety, analgesic effects and nerve growth.

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ROSE OIL FOR SKIN HEALTH There are many qualities of rose essential oil that make it beneficial for skin. The antimicrobial and aromatherapy benefits alone are good reason to include it in your treatments. While it offers amazing rejuvenating, hydrating and cytophilactic benefits for dry and mature skin, it also has incredible benefits for acne skin conditions.

In 2010 Chinese researchers published a study uncovering that rose oil exhibited one of the strongest bactericidal activities compared to 10 other oils. They also discovered that just after five minutes of a 0.25 percent dilution, propionibacterium acnes (the bacteria responsible for acne) was completely destroyed!

Another reason to use rose essential oil for skin health is because of its uncanny ability to increase your skin's permeability!

If you wish to view several of the pharmacological effects of Damask Rose you can find an excellent scientific paper on https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3586833/

DAMASK ROSE AND THE SKIN The powerful compound structure of Damask Rose Oil makes it highly effective at treating dry, mature and damaged skin as well as modifying the unhealthy skin sebum secretion that causes acne and the appearance of enlarged pores. Damask Rose Oil is well known for its unique skin toning properties that transform dull and grayish skin tone into a healthy and radiant complexion in just seconds. Damask Rose Oil also has been shown to repair broken capillaries, reduce inflammation and skin redness and is even helpful in treating eczema and herpes. You cannot find any other all natural substance that is better for your skin.

As German scientists explained in a 2010 article, one of the most intriguing aspects of rose essential oil is that “for substances applied in rose oil, a clear relationship between their lipophilic character, chemical structure and skin permeation could be confirmed”.

Essentially, what this means is that when rose is added to your beauty and skin products, it opens up your skin to absorb more of the chemicals and nutrients. Applying a dilution of rose essential oil prior to your serum can substantially assist in better penetration of your active ingredients.

THE MULTIPLE BENEFITS OF DAMASK ROSE The beauty of Damask Rose is that it can work on many levels, while you are applying it for skin conditions. The most noteworthy is its effect on the nervous system in helping with stress, anxiety and depression.

The journal Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice recently published a study that set out to prove the effect of rose aromatherapy clinically on a group of 28 postpartum women, The researchers separated them into two groups: one who would be treated with 15minute sessions of a 2.5 percent solution of rose/lavender oil twice a week for four weeks, and a control group. Their results were quite remarkable. Not only was it discovered that the women experienced a significant decrease in postnatal depression scores, they also reported marked improvement in general anxiety disorder.

Additionally, because it acts as an anti-anxiety agent, rose essential oil can greatly help men and women with sexual dysfunction related to performance anxiety and stress. According to certain studies it has also been reported that it can help balance sex hormones, which can contribute to increased sex drive.

REFERENCES: Baser, K.H.C (1992). Turkish rose oil. Perf. Flav. 17(3), 45-52 Verma RS, Padalia RC, Chauhan A (2011). Chemical investigation of the volatile components of Shade-dried petals of damask rose (Rosa damascena).

Arch. Biol. Sci. Belgrade 63 (4): 1111-1115.

Kaul VK, Singh V, Singh B. Damask rose and marigold:prospective industrial crops. J Med Aromat Plant Sci. 2000;22:313–318.

Loghmani-Khouzani H, Sabzi-Fini O, Safari J. Essential oil composition of Rosa damascena Mill cultivated in central Iran. Scientia Iranica.

2007;14:316–319.

Cai YZ, Xing J, Sun M, Zhan ZQ, Corke H. Phenolic antioxidants (hydrolyzable tannins, flavonols, and anthocyanins) identified by LC-ESI-MS and MALDI-QIT-TOF MS from Rosa chinensis flowers. J Agric Food Chem.

2005;53:9940–9948. [PubMed] Nikbakht A, Kafi M, Mirmasoudi M, Babalar M. Micropropagation of Damask rose (Rosa damascena Mill.) cvs Azaran and Ghamsar. 2004 International J of Agriculture and Biology;7(4):535–538.

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APJ 20

socialresponsibility

LET YOUR BUSINESS SHINE become an APAN/Think Pink Skin and Wellness Month Ambassador LAST YEAR APAN launched the APAN/Think Pink Skin and Wellness month giving businesses the opportunity to be part of a worthy cause raising money for breast cancer sufferers, reflecting their ethos as a caring business with a social conscience.

The program allowed clinics and salons Australia-wide to take part in a national program that aimed to help businesses lift their profile, while being part of a greater cause in support of breast cancer sufferers and their families.

Our intention is for this program to gain momentum each year so that it becomes a well-recognised national event. We are aware that several businesses wished to participate last year but were committed to other projects and were planning to engage as APAN/Think Pink Skin and Wellness Month Ambassadors this year, so here is your chance.

Let's pick up on the momentum in 2017 and make it an even better year.

Once again we are offering a Participation Kit that will include: 1. E-banners 2. A list of over 40 marketing and promotional tips to get you started 3. Decal for your business 4. Included on the APAN National Register 5. 100 brochures with space to include your details so that you can give out to your clients Cost for the kit in 2017 is just $99. In 2016 it was $150.

HOW TO GET THE MOST FROM YOUR INVOLVEMENT We are inviting as many businesses as possible to take part in this

initiative. However, each business is different and unless you establish a clear plan on how you want this project to work for your business it will not promote itself. With careful planning you can leverage off it and create business growth that will allow you to offer a donation to the project while you can grow your clients and increase your business profits and return. A wonderful example is Claire Mason from Integrity who was able to gain over 20 high-quality clients through her planning to create an amazing event in support of this project, while also helping her business gain greater exposure and business growth. You will find the full story in the Summer issue of APJ Journal.

WHILE YOU MAY BE CONTEMPLATING WHETHER TO ENGAGE, HERE ARE SOME SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO GET THE MOST FROM YOUR INVOLVEMENT: Within the kit you will find a list of over 40 marketing and promotional ideas. Get your yearly calendar and have a staff meeting. Present these recommendations to the staff and allow them to give you their feedback on what they believe will work best for your business.

Come to an agreement on a plan then set dates on your calendar on how it will be implement. Now, delegate tasks to each staff and determine a future meeting to regroup and discuss.

You can also phone APAN and talk to a staff member on their suggestions. There are many exciting themes that you can introduce to create a spirit of celebration with a purpose. Clients love special offers and fun things to invite their friends along.

We also recommend that you set target financial targets that you wish to achieve and also donation amounts you would like your business to contribute to breast cancer through this project.

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APJ 22

We were delighted to be given the opportunity to present our finalists who raised the most money for the APAN/Think Pink project in 2016 with a Thank You trophy at the My Face My Body Awards.

In THANKS AND APPRECIATION for 2016 Fundraising contribution in support of the Living Centre Breast Cancer initiative – APAN/Think Pink Skin and Wellness Month:

NSW STATE GOLD WINNER

Brigitte Marden Brigitte Academie de Beaute

QLD STATE CORPORATE WINNER

Claire Mason Integrity Paramedical Skin Practitioners

WA STATE GOLD WINNER 2016

Christine Comans MediTatt

NATIONAL CORPORATE WINNER

Maureen Houssein Mustafa Australasian College Broadway

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Contact APAN today and plan to make this an amazing year of growth and celebrations.

Connect with existing and new clients with a purposedriven project that they will appreciate you for. Phone 07 5593 0360 or visit our website www.apanetwork.com and register using the online form.

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APJ 23

medicalprofile

Regaining confidence after

BREAST CANCER An interview with Plastic and Reconstructive Surgeon Mr Ian Timms IN our industry and related circles we have the privilege of meeting many amazing people, but every now and then you meet someone who is incredibly amazing and leaves an indelible effect on you. Plastic and reconstructive surgeon Mr Ian Timms is definitely one of those individuals. As the keynote speaker at the APAN/Think Pink fundraising breakfast in Perth, last October, we had the privilege of meeting this amazingly gifted, yet humble man.

What is striking about Ian Timms is his humility, kindness and compassion – qualities that make him very endearing to all who met him. Generously giving of his time in support of the breast cancer fund-raiser, he shared some of his knowledge and experiences with us and gave us a better understanding of a

patient's journey when being diagnosed with breast cancer.

His dedication to his work is clearly evident and so we asked him to share some of his knowledge with our APJ readers, which he most gracefully accepted.

Ian Timms has an impressive academic profile. He completed his medical degree in London at University College and the Middlesex School of Medicine. He continued to work in the UK medical system at London's teaching hospitals and completed his Fellowship in Surgery-in-General prior to emigrating to Australia. He is actively involved in teaching surgical trainees, hospital residents and medical students as well as operates from his busy Perth clinic, Sculpting Surgery, in Rokeby Road in Subiaco.

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APJ 24

APJ Q1: AS A PLASTIC SURGEON DO YOU HAVE A PARTICULAR AREA THAT YOU SPECIALISE IN AND IF SO WHY? My special interest is in all types of breast surgery that involves augmentation, breast reduction, breast lifting procedures and of course, reconstructive.

Reconstructive procedures are for women who have undergone, or will be undergoing surgery for breast cancer, in addition to reversal surgeries for women who have had augmentation, reduction, or reconstructions that have not left them with aesthetically pleasing results. The surgery for the latter group can be particularly challenging and there is substantial personal satisfaction in achieving a significant improved cosmetic result for these patients, as well as those women who have had a breast removed as a result of their breast cancer.

A larger portion of my surgery work is also dedicated to an increasing number of patients who have had significant weight loss, requiring removal of excess folds of skin that have been left due to their successful weight reduction. I offer body contouring services including abdominoplasty, body lift, brachioplasty, gynaecomastia surgery, thigh refuction and labiaplasty.

BILATERAL FREE TISSUE TRANSFERRING BREAST RECONSTRUCTION

1. Pre-op photo

2. Post-operation breast reconstruction and nipple reconstruction.

3. Post cosmetic tattooing

I also undertake facial plastic surgery, including eyelid rejuvenation (blepharoplasty), facelift, neck lift, brow lift, rhinoplasty, otoplasty and the non-surgical treatments such as wrinkle injections and dermal fillers.

In addition, I undertake hand surgery involving microsurgery, carpal tunnel and dupuytrens contracture.

In my practice I also see patients with skin cancers on their faces that require surgery to give them a good cosmetic result.

or after a period of time following their mastectomy, termed a delayed reconstruction. The types of reconstruction can involve the patient's own tissue or the use of an implant. There are of course risks involved in undertaking the surgery and the exact nature of the surgery varies from patient to patient to minimise these risks. In general, the vast majority of women would be able to have a reconstruction undertaken using an implant technique, usually through staged procedures involving tissue expansion, the definitive implant and finally the nipple reconstruction and areola tattooing. Not all women have adequate donor tissue for autologous breast reconstruction, but the preferred approach is to use a patient's own tissue in free tissue transferring techniques, minimising complications as the donor site and the most common of these is the use of the fat from the lower abdomen.

APJ Q4: CAN YOU DESCRIBE WHAT IS I N V O LV E D W H E N A W O M A N I S DIAGNOSED WITH BREAST CANCER? WHAT ELEMENTS DETERMINE YOUR CONSIDERATIONS ON WHAT APPROACH TO TAKE, E.G. PARTIAL BREAST REMOVAL OR FULL BREAST REMOVAL?

My particular role as a plastic and reconstructive surgeon removes me from the early diagnostic stages of breast cancer. My colleagues, with whom I work closely and who see the patients at the time of the diagnosis, will determine the requirements of their breast surgery.

These are based around factors involving the tumour size, the location within the breast and any other likely treatment requirements for the breast cancer which may involve radiotherapy, chemotherapy and hormonal therapy.

APJ Q5: IN TERMS OF IMPLANTS A RE THERE ANY NEW ADVANCES? Since the original breast implants were inserted, there has been a

APJ Q2: CAN YOU GIVE US THE LATEST STATISTICS ON number of stages of development with silicone implants involving BREAST CANCER IN AUSTRALIA? ARE THE NUMBERS thick shells, a range of cohesive silicone gel within the implant and texturing of the implant to allow for shaped or teardrop anatomical GROWING AND ARE THERE ANY implants to be placed that will less likely rotate in IDENTIFIED CAUSES? BILATERAL BREAST the space where they are inserted. There have been

The latest statistics from 2016 show that within the Australian population approximately 16,000 new cases of breast cancer will have occurred. This is approximately 60 cases in 100,000 people. There is an increase in the number of women who are diagnosed with breast cancer. The exact reason for this is not fully understood, however, we have a much better understanding of the genetics that may be involved and thankfully we are seeing women presenting with earlier detected breast cancer.

APJ Q3: WHAT IS INVOLVED IN A BREAST RECONSTRUCTION PROCEDURE AND ARE THERE ANY RISKS? There are a number of procedures that are used for breast reconstructive purposes. Broadly, these procedures can be performed at the time of mastectomy, termed immediate reconstruction,

RECONSTRUCTION WITH LATISSIMUS DORSI FLAPS AND TISSUE EXPANDERS, AND FOLLOWING TISSUE EXPANSION, EXCHANGED TO DEFINITIVE IMPLANTS

additional advances within the implants that are used for tissue expansion in the early stages of a breast reconstruction.

These include the integration of the port for adding saline volume in the expander, which means a single device with less likelihood of leakage, and more recently introduced to the Australian market is a tissue expander that relies on volume increasing through self-inflation with a compressed carbon dioxide cylinder built into the implant. These devices use an external control to expand the device, which means the patient does not require regular visits to the doctor and can undertake the expansion at their homes.

The air expander device has built in technology to avoid over expansion and is particularly suited to patients who are geographically distant from their surgeon, which is not uncommon in Australia.

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APJ Q6: YOU WORK CLOSELY WITH M E D I C A L C O S M E T I C TAT TO O I S T

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CHRISTINE COMANS, HOW DOES THIS COLLABORATION BENEFIT YOUR PATIENTS? Completion of breast reconstructive surgery following staged surgeries is that of a nipple reconstruction. Not all women feel the need to have reconstruction of their nipples, but the techniques of tattooing that are now used significantly improve the appearance of breast reconstruction. The 3-D technique means that there is the illusion of a nipple present, thus avoiding the need for nipple reconstruction surgery and the presence of a tattooed areola on the breast giving a focus that results in less obvious scarring.

APJ Q7: WHEN SOMEONE IS WORKING WITH A BREAST CANCER PATIENT WHAT ARE THE PSYCHOLOGICAL AND PHYSIOLOGICAL IMPLICATIONS THAT ONE NEEDS TO CONSIDER? Breast cancer patients will have gone through a number of psychological traumas from the time of diagnosis, the needs for surgery, chemotherapy, radiotherapy and other measures and will have developed a varying degree of resilience through these difficult times. I believe it is important to have a reconstruction that is, although not a natural breast, one that mimics the appearance of aesthetically good breast. A good reconstruction is one way of minimising the psychological impact on women who have had breast cancer being left with no breast, scarring across the chest, often a concave appearance to their chest, and seeing it on a daily basis is a constant reminder of the trauma they have gone through.

APJ Q8: WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND AS THE BEST PREVENTATIVE MEASURES FOR DETECTION OF BREAST CANCER?

I believe that all women, from an early age, should undertake self examination to become familiar with their breast. This will allow them to seek early medical opinion if there are any changes.

Additionally, patients who have a significant medical history or knowledge of genetic likelihood of breast cancer may consider genetic testing determine whether prophylactic mastectomy should be undertaken. After the age of 50 years of age, routine mammography with or without ultrasound is highly recommended.

Mr Ian Timms, MB BS, BSc, FRCS, FRACS Suite 3, 200 Rokeby Road, Subiaco WA 6018.

Telephone – 08 9381 3288 Email – info@sculptingsurgery.com.au

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New Generation HIFU

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MEDICAL Face & Body Tightening HIFU (High Intensity Focused Ultrasound) applies focused Ultrasound energy to a depth of 2~5 mm locally targeting deeper tissues in the Superficial Muscular Aponeurotic System (SMAS), dermis and Subcutaneous tissue layers reinforcing new soft tissue renewal through thermal tissue ablation. The new soft tissue synthesis occurs within a few months, strengthening the skin’s elasticity and structure naturally from within. HIFU safely delivers visible skin tightening and lifting without invasive surgery and with no downtime.

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scientificresearch

IS EPIGENETIC THE NEXT ERA IN ANTI-AGEING SKINCARE?

Lynette Rouse interviews Associate Professor Derek Richards, Scientific Director, Cancer and Ageing Research Program, Queensland University of Technology

THIRTY years ago the aesthetics industry blossomed with a new era of molecules that would revolutionise the way in which skin therapy was performed, with AHAs becoming standard in clinical practice to assist age-related skin concerns. Now 20 years on, skincare formulas have found a new direction with even smaller more cell-penetrable molecules such as peptides to assist cell repair and optimal function of DNA transcription to achieve an anti-ageing effect.

At the cellular level, the most prominent event in an ageing tissue is cell senescences, a consequence of exposure to intrinsic and extrinsic ageing factors, Senescence (from Latin meaning "to grow old," from senex) or biological ageing is the gradual deterioration of function characteristic of most complex life forms, arguably found in all biological kingdoms, that on the level of the organism, increases mortality.

Senescence is characterised by gradual accumulation of DNA damage and epigenetic changes in DNA structure that affect correct gene expression and lead to altered cell function.

be the key to decoupling cell and organ degeneration from ageing, achieving rejuvenation in humans. The Salk researchers believe that induction of epigenetic changes via chemicals or small molecules may be the most promising approach to achieve rejuvenation in humans. However, they caution that due to the complexity of ageing, these therapies may take up to 10 years to reach clinical trials.

To discuss epigenetics and the potential within anti-ageing aesthetics, I approached Associate Professor Derek Richards, Principle Research Fellow at Queensland University of Technology (QUT) and the Scientific Director of the Cancer and Ageing Research Program to gain insight into this fascinating area of research and the potential hope that epigenetics can bring to cancer prevention and even skincare.

Lynette Rouse Q1: ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR RICHARDS, CAN YOU GIVE US A BRIEF DEFINITION AND HISTORY OF EPIGENERICS? You may have heard the word epigenetics being used in the press or in magazines. While most people accept its importance they don't actually know what epigenetics is.

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In recent times researchers are forming a scientific-based opinion that ageing is a multifactorial process that is determined by genetic and environmental factors.

In this year’s January issue of FORBES, an article on Salk Institute in La Jolla California was featured, where researchers published a ground breaking study in the medical journal Cell with their December 2016 findings that may

First of all we need to understand how complex life is and in particular how complex we are as human beings. In each one of our 60 trillion cells is our genetic code. In each of your skin cells is all the information required to make another one of you. So why can't we take a skin cell and grow it into another human clone? Well, there are a number of reasons why we can't do this and epigenetic programming is one of those reasons. Think of our genetic code as a DIY guide on how to build a human. Having this DIY book is great,

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but it is useless unless we have someone to read the instructions. In the cell this is called messenger RNA or mRNA. mRNA copies the genetic code and then sends this to another part of the cell that turns the mRNA into a very specific protein that only that gene encoded.

benefits can be translated into real benefits for skincare products.

The drug industry has already recognised these academic partnerships are critical to develop next generation drugs and I hope the skincare industry will follow this lead.

The proteins in your cells are the workers. They actually do things that make you who you are. We have over 30,000 different types of worker proteins within our cells and each cell will contain trillions of workers at any one time. So why are all of our cells different if they all contain the genetic code? The reason we have different cells is that when a cell is made it switches off all of the genetic information it doesn't need and only reads the DIY instructions on how to make a skin cell. The epigenetic state of a cell is controlled by special epigenetic proteins. Epigenetic proteins in your cell control this packaging of your DNA and place it into storage.

Lynette Rouse Q4: HOW CAN EPIGENETIC SOLUTIONS BE ABLE TO BENEFIT THE STRUCTURES OF THE SKIN? When we develop the technology required to alter cellular changes in epigenetic programming we will effectively have the ability to stop the clock and perhaps even rewind that biological clock. Essentially, if and once we can achieve this, we will have the capacity to rejuvenate the skin and skin structures will begin to resemble those of a young, healthy individual.

Lynette Rouse Q5: WHAT WILL THIS MEAN FOR THE Other epigenetic proteins will cause reactions directly with the CONSUMER? genetic code that change the chemistry of the gene it targets. This can result in the cell either producing less or more of the mRNA and this in turn changes how much of that particular protein is made.

If our cells are stressed, the cell will respond to try and get rid of that stress and the epigenetic proteins are critical for that response and can result in changes to how that cell functions. These changes could result in all the genes involved in inflammation being switch on by the epigenetic proteins, with stress in one cell having the potential to cause the same changes in neighbouring cells.

Some epigenetic changes can be passed onto your children. For instance smokers have large epigenetic changes in every part of their body and it has been shown that those changes in the mothers egg cells can be passed on to the baby.

Lynette Rouse Q2: OVER 20 YEARS AGO ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS LAUNCHED A NEW ERA IN SKINCARE, FOR THE PAST 10 YEARS THE SKINCARE WORLD HAS HAD A FOCUS ON PEPTIDES, EPIGENETICS HAS BEEN MOVING IN THE SCIENCE WORLD FOR 40 YEARS TO ARRIVE AT THIS POINT IN TIME. IS THIS NEW SOPHISTICATED SCIENCE THE NEXT TREND FOR THE COSMETIC WORLD? The ability to modulate epigenetics is still in its infancy. While we can easily make changes to the epigenetics of the skin cells we need to be able to do this in a beneficial way. This is clearly an area of great interest in the skincare industry as by giving drugs or peptides that can make these changes it could be possible to have an impact on the ageing process in that cell. For instance, by making the correct changes you could rejuvenate that cell making it more active, making more of the correct proteins and, indeed, stopping damage to the cells genetic code. The next few years I believe will see more advances in these technologies.

Consumers already know the benefits of using a good quality skincare product and how that reflects on their appearance. As the market progresses and more and more skincare companies partner up with academic teams at universities, we will see greater advances made in the skincare technology that can achieve a great deal more than in previous years. I think the consumer will be the ultimate winner from such partnerships.

Lynette Rouse Q6: WHAT WILL THIS MEAN FOR THE FUTURE OF SKINCARE? The future of the skincare market looks great. There is everincreasing demand for good quality products that really make a difference. I think the future of skincare lies within science, and with the growing trend of skincare companies teaming up with academics.

I feel this industry is going to have a big impact on quality of life heading into the future.

Lynette Rouse Q7: DISCOVERY?

WHAT IS YOUR MOST RECENT

My team works on understanding how we age and why we get cancer as we grow older. Both cancer and ageing are caused when your genetic code gets damaged. When this damage occurs the epigenetic proteins rush to the damage site and make changes to the packaging of the DNA allowing DNA repair proteins to get access, so that they can repair that damage.

Epigenetics is a critical part of the cells armory that protects us from cancer. Epigenetics is also closely linked with the ageing process.

As we get older epigenetic changes happen in our cells that gradually switch off our DNA repair genes making us more likely to lose genetic information and making us susceptible to cancer. Our team of researchers recently discovered how our cells detect and repair damage to our genetic code caused by free radicals. We are hoping to use this information to generate drugs that will protect our genetic code thus reduce the risk of cancer and slow the ageing process.

Lynette Rouse Q3: IS THERE CURRENTLY ANY EVIDENCE TO SUGGEST THAT SCIENTISTS AND CLINICIANS WILL BE ABLE TO TARGET CELLULAR PATHWAYS THAT CAUSE AGEING WITH NEW SKINCARE TECHNOLOGY Derek Richard can be AND THERAPIES? Scientist conduct research in areas where they can get funding (disease) and thus few academics work in the area of skincare exclusively as the government will not fund this type of research.

However, I believe the knowledge scientists have gained and the technologies they have developed to treat disease could easily be targeted to the skincare market. The skincare industry needs to partner with these scientists and fund their research so that their

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contacted at www.carp.org.au You can also hear him speak at t h e A PA N A e s t h e t i c s Conference in Brisbane June 30th and meet him in person.

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businessprofile

The launch of a CLINICAL THERAPIES AND LASER INSTITUTE Meeting an industry need WITH extensive clinical and business experience Metro-Dora Clifford is recognised and awarded by the beauty and aesthetics industry for her enormous contribution to the advancement of industry skills and knowledge in various aesthetics modalities. Her area of specialisation includes the skilful and efficacious use of technologies, in particular, light-based equipment, such as LED, IPL and various types of lasers as well as dermal therapy protocols to achieve advanced clinical results.

Being part of the original working group in Queensland Radiation Health that reviewed licensing requirements Metro-Dora was also instrumental in securing through legislation the rights for non-medical professionals to operate Lasers with Queensland through licensing. Metro-Dora fought vigorously defending the position that with appropriate training and licensing, skin therapists could meet with the necessary standards to deliver safe treatments using lasers and IPLs. As a result she was the first in Queensland to write a Laser Safety Course that was endorsed by Queensland Radiation Health.

As a highly qualified woman in many disciplines she has brought a new level of intelligence to the profession. She is renowned within the aesthetics industry for challenging the status quo – pushing the boundaries of traditional thinking to achieve higher treatment outcomes and new levels of excellence.

For over 30 years Metro's training and education, which are her passion, have helped shape the beauty and aesthetics industry's identity through the recognition of credible advanced procedures.

She has brought to the forefront some of the world's most advanced technologies and pioneered treatment procedures and protocols that often rivalled surgical results in appearance enhancement.

LAUNCHING A NEW RTO - CLINICAL THERAPIES AND LASER INSTITUTE Converging all her skills, knowledge and experience in 2017 Metro has launched CLINICAL THERAPIES AND LASER INSTITUTE – a Registered Training Organisation (RTO No. 41476) that is dedicated to delivering qualifications in various modalities with a strong emphasis in both theoretical and practical skills to ensure that graduates meet with best practice standards and are industry-ready.

"Our point-of-difference," Metro said, "will be that students will also receive comprehensive hands-ontraining and experience, which we believe is currently lacking with many who are seeking to gain qualifications or, upgrade their existing skills."

Metro went on to say that many salons and clinics are crying out for skilled, qualified and confident staff who can immediately support the business by delivering the level of results that consumers now expect and which are necessary for the businesses to continue to grow. "We have the knowledge and experience to guarantee this level of training," she said.

CLINICAL THERAPIES AND LASER INSTITUTE is offering both accredited and non-accredited post-graduate training in a variety of modalities helping to raise the standards and confidence of both practitioners and supporting businesses achieve robust growth.

PHONE CLINICAL THERAPIES AND LASER INSTITUTE today 1800 628 999 www.laserinstititue.edu.au

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SPECIALISED COURSES OFFERED HANDS-ON LEARNING IS ESSENTIAL

LEARNING BY DOING

CLINICAL THERAPIES L A S E R

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Learning by Doing.

PASSING ON 30 YEARS OF CLINICAL EXPERIENCE

Experts agree that effective, advanced post-graduate courses must be based on practical, hands-on experience.

Training with practical, hands-on experience for advanced laser treatments is essential for safety & results.

At the Clinical Therapies and Laser Institute we understand that a person’s future is determined by their passion and propelled by excellence, confidence and commitment.

Students are taught using practical, hands-on strategies, emphasising a face-to-face relationship between trainer and student. A focus on excellence in safety and results allows our students to be supported in their commitment to educational superiority, quality service and career advancement.

From the Skincare Workshop Dr. Michael Tick, PhD, FACMT, CTN

In an environment where questions are answered, talents are enhanced and excellence made achievable, a Learning by Doing approach is emphasised. Our students are equipped with a superior skill set to ensure that they can become experts in their field of passion.

CLINICAL THERAPIES CLINICAL THERAPIES

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Students of the Clinical Therapies and Laser Institute will become valued and capable members of the industry and leaders in various fields of aesthetic practice.

tattooingregulations

Microblading and Regulations – The Australian Industry Position

by Tina Viney - CEO APAN

THERE is currently a lot of discussion about what is the regulatory and industry position on microblading as this modality is currently unregulated and for this reason it has been exploited by trainers who are delivering short courses over 2-3 days period without any prerequisites. APAN is in discussions with the Association of Cosmetic Tattoo exploring the best way to protect this modality and to move forward in the area of standards. In this article we explore some of these options and also examine the position of other professional bodies such as the American Academy of Micropigmentation (AAM), or the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP).

There is no doubt that microbladed brows are considered today's must have procedure and this has been encouraged with the other new trend of eyelash extension. However, eyelash extensions, while they also have a level of risk, are not an invasive procedure, while mircoblading is technically a cosmetic tattoo procedure and therefore carries a much higher level of risk. To perform microblading you need to address the pain issue and therefore use some level of pain management, such as a topical anaesthetic. Also, as you are impregnating colour pigment into the dermis there are potential infection risks. Both these activities are considered healthcare practices and there are laws in most states that require certain licensing requirements and/or qualifications.

With the traditional method of tattooing eyebrows, which has been around for many years, several techniques are used. These include feathered hair stroke technique using a digital device and in the early years, manual hand tools were used in some ways, similar to the ones used with microblading today.

The point of difference that sets microblading apart is the technique in which the hand tool is used to implant the pigment. Instead of softly tapping pigment into the skin, it is used like a blade, and scratches the surface several times, creating a shallow thin line of pigment to simulate a fine brow hair. The key to a successful application is knowing that correct location in the upper dermis where the pigment must be placed for colour retention.

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Regardless as to what you have been told on social media, or anywhere else for that matter, technically speaking microblading is tattooing, which is considered an advanced technique of implanting pigment into the skin. Anything that is considered advanced takes practice and time to perfect. It also requires specific units of competency to ensure that the practitioner is educated and trained at an appropriate industry level necessary to minimise risk of cross infection, as well as operator error with a procedure, which is considered long-lasting. This must not be underestimated.

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TRAINING STANDARDS

AUSTRALIAN HEALTH REGULATIONS

At this point in time APAN, in collaboration with ACT is exploring industry standards that will best protect the reputation of the industry.

It is not our intention to disadvantage businesses that wish to introduce this procedure to their clients. However, we also have a duty-of-care to ensure that industry standards are identified and promoted, whether they are included in regulations, or not. It is important to understand that in Australia the government expects associations and industry standards bodies to determine selfregulatory measures that define consumer safety, the reputation of the profession and the integrity of a practice. Both organisation are expected to act in this capacity as part of our duty-of-care to our members and the industry.

We are currently speaking to various State regulators and they all believe that regardless as to the name of the procedure if the skin is broken and that State requires a skin penetration licence, regardless as to whether that person is doing cosmetic tattooing or microblading, the operator is breaking the law if they do not possess an appropriate licence. In Queensland for example, they will also need to have complete the updated unit SHBBINF001 Maintain Infection Control Standards. Additionally, microblading practitioners will need to abide by their state regulations with regards to the use of numbing creams/anaesthetics. This has been confirmed to us by various health departments.

The Association of Cosmetic Tattoo represents cosmetic tattooists in Australia. On the other hand APAN also has a membership classification for cosmetic tattooists as several of our members are either aestheticians/dermal therapists and/or cosmetic tattooists.

Both organisation believe that working together will allow us to present a unified position to support regulations and we are exploring the appropriate standards to support and endorse. This is a very important step and it is our responsibility as industry leaders to do so.

In searching other standards around the world we have identified the US position, and I quote from a recent article Microblading Regulations, Laws and Protocols, presented by Debra M. Delaney: “The basic or primary training program for micropigmentation or permanent makeup should be at least 100 hours for curriculum and application (procedures). The curriculum should cover the following topics: sanitation and disinfection, anatomy, colour theory, pigments, psychological considerations of the client, facial morphology, brow shaping and design, equipment, machines and hand tools, needle selection and anaesthetics. It should also include practice work and an opportunity to observe procedures before performing them under the instructor's supervision. Even if microblading is the only permanent tattooing procedure you plan to practice, this information and training is extremely important,” Ms Dalaney stated.

She went on to say that instructors will require you to have your state approved Bloodborne Pathogen (BBP) certificate before you take the class. “Look for instructors who are certified by either the American Academy of Micropigmentation (AAM) or the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP). These professionals are required to have years of experience and pass a board or industry approved exam to obtain their instructor certification,” she said.

They also recommend that (the student) ensures they are covered under the instructor's liability and indemnity insurance during training. If something should happen to a model during training, YOU could be held liable and sued for damages. It's a red flag if a trainer does not allow you to practice your application on a live model while they're overseeing your abilities as a student. The best way to learn the correct technique is with the guidance of an instructor, who has the experience. This is the current US position.

AUSTRALIAN INSURANCE POSITION Within Australia insurance companies require that anyone who wishes to be insured for performing microblading will indicate that they are a qualified cosmetic tattooist. It is our understanding that there is no insurance for just microblading. What that means is that someone who is not a cosmetic tattooist may find that in the event of a claim they may not be covered. It is quite evident that unless a qualification for microblading is designed as a separate modality it will continue to be considered as part of cosmetic tattooing.

The US also hold the same position of meeting with the requirements of each State laws and guidelines.

TRAINING STANDARDS Further US recommendations on training requirements are outlined briefly as follows: Once trained, a new practitioner can expect to spend between two and three hours microblading brows on a client. The more procedures you do, the more proficient you become and the less time is needed to complete the application. Depending on the individual client's needs, an experienced practitioner schedules between one and two hours for a set of microbladed brows. The client needs to come back for a touch-up four to eight weeks after this initial application. There is less time needed on the second visit because it entails simply implanting more colour into the previously applied hair strokes.

If the pigment is implanted into the upper level of the dermis, it should last about 12 to 18 months with a colour boost needed around the 12month mark. Factors such as the client's skin type, medications, sun exposure and skin care products influence the colour retention. If, however, the pigment is only “scratched” in the surface of the skin (as many have been taught to do), it will pretty much disappear during the healing phase of the skin during normal regeneration of cells at the epidermal level.

Looking at these recommendations they are very similar to cosmetic tattooing standards. Both APAN and ACT are looking at agreeing on the appropriate training standards for Australia to determine both prerequisites, as well as what would be considered as acceptable units within a training program. Our intention is not to disadvantage any business, however, without clearly defined standards, the practice of microblading will continue to present major concerns with constantly growing numbers of poorly performed procedures that bring the profession into disrepute.

SETTING THE RIGHT PRICE While the US is looking at setting an appropriate price-point for microblading, in Australia we must not fall into the same trap.

According to the Trade Practices Act price fixing is illegal and any violation will deem the Association, or any businesses entering in such an agreement as liable to be fined. This is a prime example of why, while we can look at standards from other countries, we must also ensure that whatever we decide also falls within Australian standards guidelines and does not violate any existing laws.

As Australia has a government-approved training standard for cosmetic tattooing, it should not take us long to determine appropriate industry guidelines. If you would like to put forward your recommendations please feel free to contact both organisations – APAN and ACT with your thoughts. Alternatively, we will inform the industry once a decision has been reached.

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memberprofile

Profile of an Industry Luminary

STEFANIA CAPITELLI THERE is one interesting thing that longevity in an industry can often gives you and that is an incredible and sometimes illustrious history.

One of these amazing women is Stefania Capitelli – a founding member to introduce cosmetic tattooing to Australia. Together with Val Glover Hovan, they are without a doubt the pioneers and the grande madams of this profession. A true perfectionist in her work we are honoured to profile Stefania Capitelli's contribution to the industry in this issue of APJ.

Australia so I returned to Argentina to purchase my equipment.

At the time Argentina was decades ahead of Australia in the area of aesthetics. Being of Italian origin I also travelled to Italy to do further studies and purchased my first microdermabrasion machine there, well before this modality was known here.

I was highly committed to offer my clients the very best that the world had to offer and I still maintain this passion for whatever I do. To this day, I have clients who have been with me for 40 years.

APJ Q1: TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND So, how did I get involved with cosmetic tattooing? Back in the AND HOW YOU GOT STARTED IN COSMETIC 50s very thin eyebrows were in vogue and with excessive plucking I ended permanently with hardly any eyebrows. It was TATTOOING? I trained as a beauty therapist in Argentina in the late 60s and worked as a dermatologist's assistant in hospitals there doing pre and post-operative treatments, but in particular specialising in acne treatments and electrolysis for hair removal. I also learnt and did several deep peels such as trichloroacetic acid (TCA peels). Working in a medical environment I gain a great appreciation of the medical perspective and the need of ensuring a high standard of hygiene practices as well as treatment results.

in 1985 that I heard about Val Glover Hovan who had introduced cosmetic tattooing to Australia and immediately recognised how this procedure could solve my problem and not just mine. Several of my client were also in the same predicament with their eyebrows.

My first training in cosmetic tattooing was in Hong Kong. As many of the Chinese have very thin hair on their eyebrows this was a very popular procedure and they had really perfected the technique. Of course they were mainly using black ink, however, In 1974 we moved to Australia and settled in Brisbane. I worked I had to learn how to blend different colours as the Australian in a beauty salon for two years and eventually opened my first population with its varied ethnic people required that I perform salon in 1976. At the time there was very little technology in

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TRAINING IN HONG KONG 1985` cosmetic tattooing using different colours. This is how I got started in cosmetic tattooing.

APJ Q2: WHAT ARE THE PRINCIPLES OF YOUR TECHNIQUE AND HOW HAS COSMETIC TATTOO TECHNIQUES CHANGED OVER THE YEARS? When I first started as a cosmetic tattooist the manual method using wooden sticks with three-point needled attached to the stick held in place by a cotton string. You needed a lot of practice to master the technique.

Not long after Asian manufacturers introduced equipment driven by electricity and these devices progressively got better and better introducing disposable parts for greater hygiene as well as several needles. Over the years I have perfected my own technique which is more gentle, slower and almost completely painless. Nevertheless, it is still long-lasting with often touch ups not needed for as long as 15 to 20 years. This is due to the

USING ARGENTINA’S EQUIPMENT IN BRISBANE 1979 way it is performed. My technique uses strokes and shadowing similar to a 3D effect. It is beautiful, long-lasting, but never harsh. My own eyebrows have lasted 32 years now. The more black that is used the longer they last. With brown eyebrows by adding a little black they will last longer. I often see eyebrows that have turned green or have faded extensively. Most of the time they have had white added to the colour to soften them.

However, this sometimes in the long-term leads to the colour changing as well as colour fading. When it comes to eyebrows I believe that cosmetic tattooing can be delivered with a variety of techniques. I am not a particular fan of microblading as I really don't see the point of it, when you can perform the powder (ombre) technique, as well as feature stroking quite successfully with traditional tools. Micro-stocking technique has been around for many years. In my opinion microblading feather strokes is not for everyone. It is not for the older client who does not have tight skin. If the skin is a little loose when the procedure heals the strokes can often look wavy and it will not look good.

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the need to take colour out, which can be quite traumatic for the client. I always shape and draw the brows first and allow the client to see how the final outcome will look in shape and colour density. Once they have agreed and signed off I then will procedure to do the treatment. I always ensure photos are taken of the before and after procedure. I find that 80% of my clients do not even need a touch-up. Any touch-ups are performed after four weeks and if a small adjustment is needed it is only carried out after that time. In the 32 years I have been doing cosmetic tattooing I have never had an unhappy client and I attribute that to the fact that I am not heavy handed.

With regards to tattooing for bald heads, when I initially trained we only did the powder (ombre) finish so we used this technique to fill in balding patches. We did not do the dot technique used today, which looks like the hair has been shaved rather than being bald. I think this technique is actually very clever and is fast becoming popular.

BEFORE AND AFTER – LIPS

APJ Q4: TELL US WHAT YOU ENJOY THE MOST ABOUT YOUR WORK AND SHARE WITH US AN INSPIRATIONAL STORY OF HOW YOUR WORK HAS CHANGED SOMEONE'S LIFE? I need to say that at this point in my life I perform my treatments without requesting any pay for them. Over the years what I have leant is that women at every age want to look beautiful, more fresh and younger-looking regardless as to whether they are even 80 or 90 years old. The older I get (and I am now 72) the more I understand that we always need to feel good about ourselves and we continue to have a need to look good. Age is just a number now. In past years, once you reached a certain age you were expected to look that age, but this is not the case today.

BEFORE AND AFTER – EYEBROWS

Recently, I had a wonderful experience with a young woman in her early 40s who came to see me. She was totally bald, had no eyebrows or eyelashes. My heart went out to her, but I did not enquire the reason for her condition. My first task was to draw her eyebrows in a colour that I felt best complemented her skin. As she was thrilled with the look I proceeded with this (see left images). I then asked her why she had not considered wearing a wig. She told me that many of the wigs were too large and the smaller one for children were too small, so she decided not to wear a wig.

As she gained confidence with her eyebrows, I then recommended we try to add an eyeliner. This made such a difference and I immediately saw that she had gained confidence in herself and her appearance. As a result she sort to get a nutritional formula to help grow her hair back. Two weeks later she came to me to show me that she was starting to grow fluff and BEFORE AND AFTER – EYEBROWS AND EYELINER that her hair was starting to come back. It was wonderful to see a My daughter Marina is quite proficient in microblading, but I person who came to me having undergone some trauma and prefer to use my own techniques. having no hope, being transform through a few cosmetic tattoo procedures that I was able to perform on her. The change in her APJ Q3: WHAT PROCEDURES DO YOU PERFORM AND confidence was quite amazing. It is experiences like these that WHICH IS YOUR FAVOURITE? make me realise how valuable and worthwhile my work is.

I perform all the cosmetic tattooing procedures, eyeliner, eyebrows, lips, beauty spots as well as nipple areola. However, I APJ Q5: WHAT CONCERNS DO YOU HAVE ABOUT THE specialise in the strokes and shadow, or the 3D technique as I have CURRENT STATUS OF THE PROFESSION AND WHAT found this gives the most beautiful finish. To achieve this I often dilute the pigment to achieve the powder look as I prefer to build- CHANGES WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE TO HELP IMPROVE up colour progressively rather than go in heavy handed. It is best THE FUTURE OF COSMETIC TATTOOING? to allow for adding colour than using too much and then having While it is important to gain comprehensive training in

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techniques I am also a staunch believer that cosmetic tattooing should not be performed without a skin penetration licence. This is because I am so aware of the risks if these standards are not maintained. Cleanliness and sterilisation are paramount. I constantly witness some shocking standards. I was at a trade show last year and I observe several practitioners performing treatments on their stand. They were advocating that all the parts of their machines were disposable. While this was a good thing for the purpose of preventing cross contamination, what followed shocked me. Each practitioner was wearing gloves and masks, they then mixed a colour which they positioned in a small cup.

However, everyone was dipping in the same cup, while performing cosmetic tattoo treatments on different individuals.

This was most disturbing as it contravened a major infection control standard. My concern is that often insufficient education is not included in a training programs. As a result practitioners don't understand why they have to follow certain protocols, not to mention mastering techniques that are performed on people's faces and are relatively permanent. All cosmetic tattooing including microblading, should have the same foundational training, thorough infection control standards, a comprehensive consent form as well post treatment homecare instructions. It is important for people to understand that microblading IS cosmetic tattooing. It should not be looked upon as just a temporary grooming service similar to, say, lash extensions. I see so many poorly performed microblading procedures that are leaving the clients distraught. Crooked work, strokes that are too heavy and in some cases the colour has changed extensively to ashen or green. This is because the practitioner has not been correctly trained in colour mixing and correct colour selection for their client.

I believe that training standards need to be formalised across the board through formal qualifications. The industry now requires this level of training and the skills and knowledge is now available for this to be achieved.

APJ Q6: DO YOU EVER SEE YOURSELF RETIRING AND WHAT DRIVES YOU TO CONTINUE YOUR PRACTICE AS A COSMETIC TATTOOIST? I cannot envisage myself not working. I don't really believe in retirement. In fact, I think I will drop dead doing my work. This is my world. This is where I meet my friends. This is what I love doing. I gain so much professional and social satisfaction in my work, why would I want to leave it and do what? I therefore intend to go on working as long as I possibly can.

Stefania Capitelli is a true inspiration and a legend in her own right. She has made her mark, not just by improving her clients' confidence and lives, but also in establishing an inspirational legacy of achievement within the industry she loves so much.

Despite that she has always been a quiet achiever, her work continues to be recognised as timeless perfection.

Stefania can be contacted at iBeauty Medispa in Queens Plaza, 226 Queens Street Brisbane where she works with her daughter Marina Capitelli-Zarganis.

Phone 07 3229 9900 Email: info@ibeautymedispa.com.au

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Tips for Better BUSINESS Business & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes

WHY FLEXIBLE WORK WORKS FLEXIBLE work is no longer just a “buzz term”, with the practice now becoming widely accepted as common, if not standard practice for many businesses. However, some businesses still struggle to implement the practice beyond a relaxed take on the traditional nine-to-five model.

Experts say that one of the goals of flexible work should be to empower employees to deliver their outcomes in their own way, arguing that this is how you get the most out of your employees.

They believe that everyone is empowered and incredibly focused on the business's strategy and goals. They suggest that businesses will get the most from their staff if they are led through this and not micro-managed.

Businesses that recognise that staff also have family responsibilities and allow then to manage those responsibilities within their week have greater possibility of securing loyal, long-term staff as they are creating a win-win situation. Experts say that one of the ways we

measure success is we closely monitor our churn rate. If you are identifying regular staff turnover, this is a sign that you are not getting the balance right to ensure long-term employment prospects.

To achieve the right fit it is important for management to interview each staff member and determine their individual needs as no two people are the same. For example, allowing a mum whose child has just started school to start their working day at 9.30am instead of 9am can make all the difference. Every mother wants to be able to see their little ones off to school and be personally there for them. That half hour of grace can create a more rewarding workplace attitude knowing that their personal needs are also taken into consideration.

The consideration for allowing businesses to offer flexible working hours has allowed many businesses to create an appropriate work environment that also supports the employees personal obligation.

While this many not suit a very small business with only one or two employees, it is worth considering if a business wishes to ensure staff stay with them in the long term.

HERE COME THE GEN Z: THE FOUR THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW WHEN MARKETING TO THE FIRST TRULY DIGITAL GENERATION MOST businesses in our industry attempt to cater for a diverse age group of clients. However, each generation has been influenced by different technology, culture and mindset. Baby Boomers have a level of respect for authority, recognise experts, are hard working and value the one-on-one consultation and appreciate phone calls and emails.

Gen Ys on the other hand, born between 1980 and 2000 have a completely different profile. They are very tech-savvy and less brand loyal, meanwhile they are style-conscious and prefer to be communicated electronically. Gen Y kids often raised in dualincome or single-parent families have been more involved in family purchases – everything from groceries to new cars. One in nine Gen Ys has a credit card co-signed by a parent.

Just as many of us think we finally have a grasp on the wonders and mysteries of the Gen Ys, along comes a new lot to baffle and amuse the older generations: Generation Z. This is the generation born from about 1995 onwards, generally defined as

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the demographic cohort of five years of age to about 20. They're the younger siblings of the Gen Ys and the children of Gen Xers and younger Boomers.

What makes them so unique and unlike the generations before them is they are the first truly digital generation. Gen Ys are the group that came to maturity and grew up with digital and the web, making them 'digital natives', but that digital immersion reaches saturation point with Generation Z. As digitally native as Gen Ys are, they are not as likely as Gen Z to have had a smartphone or tablet thrust into their tiny hands – this generation probably learnt to swipe a screen before they could wipe their own bottom! These are the kids who can barely conceive of a time before internet or smartphones.

While there are plenty of ethical questions about how we as a society deal with this digital immersion for Gen Z (cyber bullying, exploitation, commercialisation, for example), there is also a question for marketing and brand professionals about how we shift our focus and strategies to engage with this generation.

With Gen Z there is no longer any question about going digital. It is an absolute given. While they are young, there is still a market for them for salons and clinics. They are very image conscious and take pride in their appearance from an early age. However, marketing to them requires a different approach.

If your business is looking at reaching out and engaging them the Gen Z has distinctive characteristics worth bearing in mind. Marketing professionals and brand managers need to keep in mind these four things when thinking about a strategy for engaging Gen Zs purchasing habits.

1. Shorter attention spans Younger people have relatively short attention spans anyway, but the on-demand, swipe-away nature of online interaction with things like

YouTube videos means this is a generation that won't sit still long enough to watch your boring 30-second ad; even a 15-second spot is asking too much of them. They're always on the lookout for new stimulus and if you have any desire at all to engage with this group, you'll have to do so in micro-bite blocks of pure entertainment.

They'll move on to the next thing if you don't. Any communication to the Z groups needs to be short, sharp and entertaining.

2. Visual over the written word Just as generations before them became enamoured with the visual qualities of TV over reading books, so too is Gen Z in thrall to visual communication over the written word. That's most obvious in the way Gen Z will use things like Snapchat videos and emojis to communicate with each other rather than doing something boring like writing a Facebook update!

3. Social savvy At the moment, Snapchat, Facebook and Instagram are the go-to social channels for Gen Z. This generation has an intuitive understanding of how social media works. They have watched their parents and siblings use it and probably started using it themselves from a young age. Their peers are on it and they use it to connect with school, sports and other communities. Gen Z have grown up with social media, so you have to be at the top of your social game to impress them.

4. Authenticity above all else Again, young people have always viewed marketing and advertising with a healthy dose of scepticism. If you want to engage this group, you'll have to make sure your message and communication with them is authentic. Not only do kids ignore brands that try too hard to be like them, they'll openly make fun of them to their friends on social media too – not the best word-of-mouth for your brand! Do your research and stay engaged with the audience. Young consumers jump on and off trends really quickly, and digital allows them to dump and move quicker than ever before.

Government to extend paid parental leave scheme by two weeks but “double dipping” still on chopping block THE Federal Government will add another two weeks to the current paid parental leave scheme as part of a series of compromises on stalled Budget measures, but it will also push on with plans to prevent so-called “double dipping” by new parents. The government has introduced an “omnibus” bill of proposed changes to welfare payments in a bid to secure billions of dollars in Budget savings through the Parliament.

According to the ABC, the bill will include an extension to the current government-funded paid parental leave scheme, from 18 weeks to 20 weeks. However, the government is also proceeding with its paid parental leave reforms first announced in the 2015 Federal Budget. The changes are intended to stop employees from accessing the full government-funded parental leave scheme at the same time as receiving parental leave entitlements paid for by their employer.

Currently, the government scheme provides approximately $12,000 to new parents, made up of 18 weeks of leave paid at the minimum wage for primary care givers that earn up to $150,000 a year. Some parents can receive this full amount, while also accessing paid parental leave from their employer if the organisation they work for has a scheme in place. If the changes proceed, some families would lose access to the government-funded scheme entirely, while others will have their government entitlements reduced, with the Department of Human Services explaining that the changes would mean the government will pay parents the difference between their employer-funded leave and what they would be entitled to under the government scheme.

The proposed changes would not come into effect until nine months after legislation is passed, so women who are already pregnant do not have their entitlements changed. The omnibus bill will also

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reportedly include some concessions to the government's proposed cuts to family tax benefits, which are intended to pay for increased funding for childcare services.

designed to give the modified policy position the best chance of passage through the Senate”.

Discover Employment Payment Entitlement

Peter Strong, chief executive of the Council of Small Business of Australia, stated that current paid parental leave arrangements tend to favour employees of large businesses and government departments. Self-employed people “are rarely eligible for paid parental leave and rarely receive any payments”, says Strong.

What about the self-employed?

The government plans to abolish end-of-year supplements for Family Tax Benefits (FTB) Part A and will now increase fortnightly payments by $20 to compensate for the change. According to news.com.au the government will also not proceed with a plan to reduce FTB Part B payments for families when their youngest child turns 13. With Labor opposed to the government's plans, the Coalition will need the support of independents and minor parties in the Senate.

Social Services Minister Christian Porter told The Australian the “modified” paid parental leave policy is “designed to be fair, to deliver maximum advantage to the lowest income families who access paid parental leave in Australia and of course, it has been

“Those who work as an employee where there is no paid parental leave in their employment conditions only get the government payment,” he says. “This happens nearly always in small and medium businesses which cannot afford the extra payment.”

Strong believes there is a risk that a “two-tier” system is created whereby there is a divide between those who work for big businesses and government, and those who either own their own business or are employed in a small or medium business.

THE 12 SALES TRENDS THAT WILL DRIVE BUSINESS IN 2017: GOING FROM ORDINARY TO EXTRAORDINARY IN times of major change, uncertainty and upheaval, we have two choices. One, we bunker down keeping our heads low, wait for things to pass and settle down back to normal or, two, we embrace the change and ride the waves towards the future creating a new normal. Opting for the first is dangerous and potentially foolish as we are likely to be left behind, achieving only obsolescence.

Opting for the second is also potentially dangerous, but more likely to achieve better outcomes as we proactively look at how we can make the necessary shifts and changes to stay out in front and remain relevant.

The theme for Barretts 2017 Sales Trends is Going from ordinary to extraordinary. Its focus is to highlight the current trends that are driving better sales outcomes, and what it takes to lead a sales team and run an effective sales operation now and into the future.

There are themes like authenticity; active learning; the courage to step outside our comfort zones; the power of incremental change and iteration; embracing complexity as a way of life; the importance of being quiet and paying attention; along with openness and transparency. All of these qualities are in of themselves nothing revelatory or revolutionary, but combined together and practiced routinely they can make for extraordinary change.

If we want to shift from ordinary to extraordinary, it requires focused attention and daily practise working in concert with our staff, our suppliers and our clients. There is no simple answer, no silver bullet to save the day.

If we want extraordinary results, we need to create the conditions in which to lead extraordinary sales teams and manage extraordinary sales operations. Here's a quick overview of seven Sales Trends for 2017.

1. Establish new metrics What do we measure now? With the current state of flux in markets and most industries, it is critical to define sales metrics that are relevant for the situation, strategy and goals of the business and the behaviours we want to encourage of our staff.

2. Mapping the buying-selling-delivery process If you want your staff's approach to move from ordinary to extraordinary, when it comes to client engagement and better sales results, it pays to map and manage your entire client engagement approach so it is fine-tuned and made easy. This will allow you to ensure everyone in your organisation understands where they fit in and how they all support the process of achieving the results.

3. Learn to embrace and manage complexity Regrettably, most organisations only view their sales operations as tactical, linear functions of the value chain. If sales are only viewed through the overly simplistic lens of foot soldiers selling product, then these organisation are doomed to fail. Sales operations are complex variable systems with many moving parts – they do not follow a straight line; smart companies get this and are leading the way. They recognise that oversimplification is their enemy when it comes to developing and deploying effective sales strategies, so they are doing things differently. They look at what will help their client to get excited and get engage in the offering. What strategy will provide them with an amazing offer they cannot resist.

4: Salespeople are risking becoming obsolete The proliferation of internet-based sales channels that offer everything, virtually everything means the traditional role of product-focused salespeople has changed. When it comes to our industry the competitive advantage is to continue to be viewed as the expert that will provide your clients with the very best possible investment to achieve the very best result, while still being perceived as a value deal.

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5: Sell and deliver value or commoditise Business leaders have, in essence, two choices in terms of the way to run viable business operations. Run a high-volume, low-margin very streamlined model, or sell real value at a reasonable margin.

Several businesses in our industry have tried the first and had gone out of business. Being kept busy with a small margin of profit does not suit service-based industries. It only suits large department stores that sell thousands of items each day. The only model that suits our industry is value added, where you include extras at no additional charge, but do not decrease your service price.

self-educating, consuming online information whenever they wish.

This is why in the service industry you need to engage in education marketing encouraging consumers to come to you to get answers, not just about your product, but about helping them to understand their choices also from a generic and a professional expert perspective. This is why staying educated and well informed of new advances and new scientific research can be one of the strongest marketing magnets that will draw clients to you for your knowledge.

It's about selling your knowledge first, gaining the trust and respect of your client and then making the "sales" recommendation.

6: What is the extraordinary selling approach for service based industries?

With the help of technological disruption, the past 10 years has seen buyers dramatically change how they identify opportunities, evaluate alternatives, and purchase solutions. They have become

7: Personal branding as the foundation of social selling A strong personal brand that can validate recognition, achievements and industry and association endorsement of quality standards can be a huge advantage in client engagement. In the service industry standards is said to be the new marketing tool.

FOCUSING ON WHAT YOU ARE GOOD AT IN the rush of a new year, it's easy to get caught up in change mania. Headlines everywhere ask us to change, or explore new solutions. Perhaps instead of longing for what you don't have or currently can't afford, you can instead focus on what you are currently doing, but do it better.

This is especially true in matters of brand, which is continually under assault from the tyranny of what you don't have. Instead of looking at what others are doing look at what you can improve on to demonstrate your brand of progress. In fact, experts suggest that if changes are not feasible you can still look at how you can shine better at what you are already doing. Here are just a few ideas:

3. Thank-you cards – gestures such as hand-written Thank You cards to your special clients with a gift voucher they can redeem.

4. Refresh staff's uniforms – update the staff's look by introducing new uniforms is a wonderful way to create a new statement of excellence.

5. Let the staff guide you – why not have a meeting with your staff to discuss ideas on what you can do differently. Get them involved.

6. Update your stock – Add a new range to your existing skincare.

7. Feature a VIP night – invite your special clients to a VIP night and introduce a guest speaker who is an authority in their field on a topic that interests your clients.

8. Display standards and recognition – Issue of recognition such as updated your staff's qualifications, awards or membership recognition to industry societies and standard bodies. These can be 1. Refresh the look of your clinic – paint a feature wall; add some your silent advertisers that you are committed to standards. new accessories.

The key issue is to demonstrate to you clients that you are always 2. Keep it fresh and simple – if you have never introduced fresh forward thinking and innovative and they can always expect to gain flower in the reception area, consider doing so. They can add a fresh the very best from your services. Minor changes like these can be and inviting appeal. affordable and also improve staff morale.

OVERCOMING TARDINESS IN THE WORKPLACE IS being late for work or finishing appointments on time an issue in your business? We all know someone who just never manages to be somewhere or do something on time. Often it is staff either late or refuse to finish clients on time, making the reception full of frustrated people. The questions to ask yourself is – is it intentional? Is it inconsiderate and rude? Is it a display of power or rebelliousness?

Many habitually blame others for their lateness

– it's the traffic, the faulty alarm or app, the kids, sudden events, personal misfortune. Some admit they operate best under pressure and like the adrenaline rush that comes with skidding to home base almost on time. You may be tempted to blame this lateness on overloaded “muddle-headedness” behaviour learned from punctuality-challenged parents, or passive aggression. Regardless of the excuse there is no reason for chronic tardiness. Here are some strategies to consider to manage this issue:

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Managing yourself starts with accountability If staff are usually late it's time to recalibrate them and their behaviour. They need to be encouraged to choose whether they want to change and become a

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person who is always on time, and respects others' time – and in turn are respected. The first step to accountability is to decide to be on time and plan for it. This will require to consider a realistic assessment of time to travel, time to do various tasks, and time to get to meetings. Then plan ahead for punctuality and commit to it.

Allow a buffer zone time, and start to enjoy the results of being on time or slightly early.

Establish the facts: Ask questions, find out what leads to the lateness, which factors contribute, and how much time is allowed for various tasks. Are there unrealistic assessments? Don't be tempted to judge and be angry with someone for being late. They may be dealing with a sizeable problem at home, one not easily solved with the flick of a wrist or click of a mouse. Don't leap to conclusions.

Limit distractions Another consideration is to re-evaluate distractions. The more distractions the less focused you are, and the more likely you are to be late. Develop discipline, build new habits and enjoy the results.

Give feedback: Once you've noted what's going on, and the effect it's having on that person's colleagues, it's time for a discreet, meaningful conversation. Not everyone welcomes being accused of a lack of punctuality, but be specific with what you have observed rather than resorting to general statements like, “you're always late”. Instead say, “I noticed that you arrived 15 minutes after the start of the meeting today, and the report this week was three days overdue”. What's going on that could be causing this behaviour? Try to be helpful, as opposed to judgmental. Try to be flexible with options. It could be relationship or debt issues, affecting the worker's performance, their diet, or sleep habits. It's no good saying these shouldn't impinge on work – they can and they do. Discuss it with this person, and ask what they will do and what you can do. The responsibility for improving matters lies with you both. Have empathy. Redefine responsibilities (and maybe roles)

Managing the 'late' people Grappling with someone who just doesn't do things on time (whether they're late arriving to work) or for delivering their services probably requires the following.

Keep a log: You need to see if there is a pattern to a person's behaviour first. A few of us are admirably organised and like to set the pace at a brisk clip for everyone else. The majority are usually mostly on time and mostly get things done reasonably well. You need to also allow a margin for mistakes and errors that slow things down.

meeting, Wallman read a prepared statement that said, while he had done what he could to get Purcell up to speed in the position, the situation of her employment now appeared “futile”.

The employee, Purcell was informed it was time her employment arrangement came to a “halt”, and although there was a subsequent meeting for her to state a response the next day, she was then informed by phone her employment had been terminated.

HOW TO AVOID AN UNFAIR DISMISSAL CLAIM APAN regularly get calls from businesses that have staff attitude concerns with non-compliance to the HR Policies and Procedures.

These issues need to be handled very carefully and there are several obligations that the owner must demonstrate that they have adhered to, to protect themselves. Let's look an example of a case that has gone wrong and then identify the missing link to it becoming an unfair dismissal case.

Recently the Fair Work Commission found the dismissal of a staff member and training officer at a Queensland bitumen company was harsh and unjust, despite the business raising and documenting a number of concerns about the worker's performance.

Catherine Purcell started work at the said company in October 2015 and according to evidence provided to the commission, after 10 months in the role, business manager Rex Wallman requested a meeting with her in August 2016. The commission heard that at the

The Commissioner heard that the employer had raised issues about performance a number of times over the course of Purcell's employment and had documented some of these issues in diary notes.

However, the Commissioner considered whether Purcell's dismissal was unfair based on whether she had been counselled on the consequences of her underperformance and given a reasonable period of time to improve before a termination decision was made. The Commissioner ruled that because Purcell was not given adequate warning in the lead-up to her dismissal, and despite the employer having legitimate concerns about her performance, the termination of her employment was harsh and unjust. As a result, Rock N Road was ordered to pay eight weeks' wages, or $5192, plus superannuation.

APAN's recommendation for all employers is that each employee must have a clearly written HR Agreement, which must be fully explained outlining conduct and expectations of their performance and employment conditions. Non-compliance to these guidelines should result in a discussion between staff and employer outlining the areas of concern. At this meeting employers must investigate through dialogue the employee's position and whether further training or coaching is needed to support compliance to the expectations. These meetings need to be diarised and if the misconduct continues, a letter of warning must follow. However, it is also the employers responsibility to give the staff member fair warning of the consequences as well as offer support in assisting them to become compliant. In the above case some of the employer obligations were not met. There are specific protocols that must be followed to ensure that any fallout with staff does not become an unfair dismissal claim.

As part of membership APAN offers step-by-step guidance to all businesses, legal advice as well as provision of appropriate HR documentation to assist them in these areas. If we can help you please contact APAN and ask to speak to a consultant Phone: 07 5593 0360.

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A breakthrough in post procedure care

Stratacel and Stratamed, applied immediately post procedure, speed up the healing process resulting in reduced downtime and improved aesthetic outcome.1 Strataderm is a medical product for the professional prevention and treatment of both old and new scars.

www.stratacel.com

www.stratamed.com

www.strataderm.com

Laser resurfacing1 – treatment with Stratacel following fractional laser resurfacing

Laser resurfacing (acne scars)2 –treatment with Stratamed in combination with thermage and CO2 fractional laser resurfacing.

Linear hypertrophic scar after surgery1 – monotherapy treatment with Strataderm

During treatment

Day 7

European Class IIa Medical Device FDA Listed/TGA approved

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Day 0

Week 8, left scar untreated

European Class I Medical Device FDA Listed/TGA approved

SC-SM-SD-AU-017-1-1016

1800 567 007 Manufactured by: Stratpharma AG Centralbahnplatz 8 CH-4051 Basel Switzerland

Sponsor in Australia: A L Kerr Medical Pty Ltd 174 Willoughby Road Crows Nest NSW 2065 Tel: 1800 567 007

SC-SM-SD-APJ-Ad-A4-AU-017-1-1016.indd 1

Always read the label. Use only as directed.

1. Data on file. Stratpharma AG 2. Sandhofer M, Schauer P. Skinmed 2012; 10(6):1–7

Switzerland

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wellnessstrategies

OXYDATIVE THERAPY for improving wellbeing

By Tina Viney IN our industry, oxygen therapy is often used to stimulate cell renewal, but can also benefit our health by increasing oxygen in our cells?

There has been some interesting research on how hydrogen peroxide can help increase oxygen levels in the body and help fight disease. In this article I would like to share with you some of these findings and the benefits of food-grade hydrogen peroxide when taken internally. As we gain greater insight into research findings we can carefully introduce simple strategies that can support and optimise health, while also providing us with preventative measures to minimise potential illness.

After all, isn't this at the heart of anti-ageing?

WHAT IS HYDROGEN PEROXIDE? Hydrogen peroxide is the same thing as hydrogen dioxide. Its chemical formula is H2O2, containing one more atom of oxygen than water H20. Hydrogen peroxide is odourless and colourless. It has a bleach-like aftertaste. It is cheap, widely available and cannot be patented.

It is a stable compound when stored in the absence of light and contaminants. When exposed to other compounds it readily breaks down into water and oxygen. The single oxygen atom it releases is a highly reactive free radical. In most circumstances free radicals are responsible for a variety of diseases and premature ageing. However, H2O2 is actually created by white blood cells to supply the immune

system with oxygen free radicals to destroy harmful bacteria, viruses, and fungi.

WHAT IS OXIDATION? Most biochemical reactions in the body are balanced through redox mechanisms. Redox means reduction/oxidation. Anytime a substance is reduced (chemically changed), something else must be oxidised (chemically changed the other way) for the reactions to stay in balance. Oxidation, as an example, is the process which causes rust (slow oxidation) or fire (rapid oxidation). In the body, some types of oxidation are thought to be harmful by producing free radicals. To protect the body from free radical formation, antioxidant supplements are suggested.

We know there can be no life if oxidation does not occur. Oxidation is the process through which the body converts sugar into energy. The body also uses oxidation as its first line of defence against bacteria, virus, yeast and parasites. Even breathing oxygen is an oxidative process. Without oxygen for more than a few seconds, serious consequences follow. Without oxidation we die very quickly. When we use the principals of oxidation to bring about improvements in the body, it is called Oxidative Therapy.

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Hydrogen peroxide, when exposed to blood, or other body fluids containing the enzyme catalase, is chemically split into oxygen and

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water. Remember how hydrogen peroxide foams when you put it on a wound? The foam is oxygen being produced by the action of catalase on the hydrogen peroxide. A small amount of hydrogen peroxide can supply large amounts of oxygen to the tissue.

There are many theories about the different functions of hydrogen peroxide in the body and a great deal of scientific material supports almost every one.

Hydrogen peroxide is produced in the body in different amounts for different purposes. It is part of a system which helps you use the oxygen you breathe. It is part of a system which helps your body regulate all living cell membranes. It is a hormonal regulator necessary for your body to produce several hormonal substances such as oestrogen, progesterone and thyroid. It is important in the regulation of blood sugar and the production of energy in all cells. It helps regulate certain chemicals necessary to operate the brain and nervous system. It is used in the defence system of the body to kill bacteria, virus, yeast and parasites and has been found to be important in regulating the immune system. Scientists are discovering the function of hydrogen peroxide in the body is far more complex and important than previously realised.

WHAT IS RESEARCH DISCOVERING? Food-grade hydrogen peroxide has been extensively studied and has been repeatedly, scientifically proven to be safe and effective when administered correctly. There are thousands of research papers that have been published in peer-reviewed journals for over 100 years that prove the benefits for human health. I therefore encourage you to also do your own research to validate this. A simple search via the National Institute of Health's Pub Med system (as of October 24, 2009) lists over 44,000 published studies in addition to these listed here. See for yourself. Visit their website and enter 'hydrogen peroxide' as your search criteria.

Intravenous hydrogen peroxide is a treatment believed to be a nearpanacea by some practitioners of alternative or integrative medicine.

There was a small flurry of interest in the intra-arterial infusion of hydrogen peroxide during the 1960s, when researchers tested its use in humans and animals for regional oxygenation to enhance the susceptibility of tumours to radiation therapy. Enthusiasm for the technique waned thereafter, as evidenced by the absence of subsequent studies in the English literature, and by the absence of clinical use of hydrogen peroxide for these purposes in the 1970s.

Since the late 1970s, a small group of practitioners has advocated the use of intravenous infusions of hydrogen peroxide for a multitude of indications. Their rationale is based largely on the research and clinical experiences of the late Charles H. Farr, MD, PhD (19271998). A true champion of this therapeutic method, Dr Farr is often referred to as the "Father of Oxidative Medicine".

Dr Farr discovered a positive metabolic effect to intravenous infusions of hydrogen peroxide, and authored an impressive workbook on the subject. In his workbook, he introduced his case for intravenous infusions of hydrogen peroxide as follows: "Its ability to oxidise almost any physiologic or pathologic substance, in addition to producing increased tissue and cellular oxygen tensions, has proven it to have therapeutic value." He noted that hydrogen peroxide "is produced by all cells of the body for many different physiological reasons." He cited its role in the destruction of infectious pathogens by phagocytes, and mentions that it is "involved in many metabolic pathways which utilise oxidase and hydrogen peroxide is involved in protein, carbohydrate, fat metabolism, immunity, vitamin and mineral metabolism, or any other system you might wish to explore."

His fundamental thesis might be stated: "Because of its importance in regulating multiple metabolic functions, hydrogen peroxide could best be described as the 'Master Regulating Molecule' of the body."

Further information on this research can be accessed from Dr Farr's comprehensive report, "The Therapeutic Use of Intravenous Hydrogen Peroxide" which is a valuable resource. You can access t h i s o n h t t p : / / w w w . f o o d g r a d e hydrogenperoxide.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/therapeut icuseofhpfarr.pdf Dr Farr was a founder and director of the International Bio-Oxidative Medical Foundation (IBOMF) and its close affiliate, the International Oxidative Medicine Association (IOMA), which shared information through conferences, advertisements and research. The First International Conference of Bio-oxidative Medicine was held February 17-19, 1989, in Dallas/Ft. Worth, Texas. Physicians presented papers on the efficacy and safety of hydrogen peroxide infusions. The non-profit International Bio-Oxidative Medicine Foundation grew rapidly, attracting many physicians who also presented scholarly reports based on their work with patients. In 1999, the IBOMF/IOMA listed 87 members. After Dr Farr's passing in 1998, the IBOMF/IOMA was absorbed into another group with whom he was closely affiliated, the American College for Advancement in Medicine (ACAM), under the category of "Oxidative Medicine".

In 1998, Charles Farr declared "no longer is the double-blind study the gold standard in medicine, because alternative treatment protocols can significantly improve the health status of a group of chronically ill patients, compared to a normal population, regardless of their diagnosis, in a time span of only six months."

Dr Farr recommended H2O2 for myriad problems, including influenza, bronchitis, herpes zoster, asthmatic reactions, EpsteinBarr virus, CMV, HIV, type II diabetes, COPD, vascular disease, arthritis, chronic pain, Alzheimer's disease, toxic dementia, Parkinsonism, migraine headaches and immune regulation.

Elsewhere in the text he stated that H2O2 can change hypothyroidism to euthyroidism, remove atheromatous plaques, protect ischemic myocardium, convert ventricular fibrillation, abort an impending stroke and destroy tumour cells. He found that the intravenous infusion of H2O2 is "an important therapeutic tool for every physician�.

Dr Farr found that his regimen was wonderfully safe: "No significant acute toxicity has been observed in several hundred patients, some receiving up to 40 to 50 infusions with concentrations up to 0.3% (several times his recommended concentration). Also, no chronic or long term toxicity has been observed up to two years post-multiple infusions. This suggested intravenous infusions of Hydrogen Peroxide is extremely safe and has a very wide therapeutic range."

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! !

Chronic fatigue Hundreds of other diseases caused by viral infections, and infections by bacteria and other microorganisms

One may ask how H2O2 can be beneficial for health and ageing when it is an oxidant. Experts point out that it should not be taken in high doses for long periods. When taking it in high doses, you can supplement with additional antioxidants to counter its oxidising effect. For example, take a drop of clove oil each day under the tongue.

NOT ALL HYDROGEN PEROXIDE IS EQUAL You can access 3% pharmaceutical grade hydrogen peroxide at your local supermarket or pharmacy. Unfortunately the 3% grade is usually impure, containing toxic stabilisers such as acetanilide, phenol, sodium stanate and tertrasodium phosphate. Only pure H2O2 should be used internally.

The best H2O2 for internal use is 35% food or pharmaceutical grade. In its concentrated form it is "Each physician, as they become more experienced using intravenous hydrogen peroxide, will develop their own protocols commensurate dangerous and will burn the skin on contact so it must be handled carefully according to the manufacturer's instructions to ensure it is with their type of practice and objectives." properly diluted before use. Keep a supply in a small glass eyedropper bottle. Prepare it by mixing drops in a glass of pure water. Do not use USES, REMEDIES AND TREATMENTS Taken orally, hydrogen peroxide provides a source of reactive oxygen chlorinated water, mineral water, or anything other than the purest species, and can be used as an oxygen supplement. H2O2 is used in water you can find. several of the body's systems, and is found in rainwater (particularly high in storm water), raw organic fruits and vegetables, and mother's When drinking it, start with 1-3 drops in a glass, three times per day.

Over the following days gradually increase the number of drops to 15milk.

25 per glass, depending on the person and the ailment being treated.

Most of the good bacteria in the body are aerobic, in other words, they After three weeks, reduce to a maintenance dose of a total of 5-15 survive in the presence of oxygen. In contrast, most strains of harmful drops per week. bacteria (and cancer cells) are anaerobic and cannot survive in the presence of oxygen or H202. Similarly, cancer cells thrive in an To benefit from bathing, carefully add 1 cup of 35% or 10 cups of 3% environment with little or no oxygen, but are destroyed by high levels H2O2 to a large warm bath. Use eye protection and gloves until of oxygen. Cancer cannot thrive in the presence of oxygen, and mixed. Soak for 20 minutes. The advantage of this method is that the therefore IV hydrogen peroxide is a potent anti-cancer treatment, skin absorbs the peroxide and it does not interfere with or damage the one that is used alone, but which can also be used in conjunction with digestive system. Also, you can eat at any time. other treatments.

For those suffering from candida, start with 1 drop of H2O2 in a glass of water three times per day for the first week. Increase to two drops in Hydrogen peroxide may be applied to open cuts and wounds in low concentration. It may also be taken internally diluted in water, or used the second week. This is because of the effect of Candida die-off. intravenously. When it is taken into the body (orally or intravenously) For open cuts and wounds, use 1-3 drops of 35% or 50% food or the oxygen content of the blood and body tissues increases - more than pharmaceutical grade H2O2 in a glass of pure unchlorinated water. the amount of oxygen in the H2O2 itself. It stimulates the production Do not use a more concentrated solution as it can be toxic to new cells. of enzymes, increases the metabolic rate, causes small arteries to For a mouthwash, dilute 1% peroxide 50:50 with water. Some people dilate and increase blood flow, and raises body temperature. use 1% H2O2 with no additional water.

It is interesting to note that mother's milk contains H202, and the amount in the first milk (colostrum) is even higher. One of its main functions is to activate and stimulate the immune system. Hydrogen peroxide is needed for the production of thyroid and sexual hormones.

It improves glucose utilisation in diabetics.

For this reason hydrogen peroxide has been used to treat a wide variety of ailments. Of particular note is its success with supposedly incurable emphysema. Its greatest success has been in dealing with degenerate diseases caused by lack of oxygen and harmful microorganisms. These include:

! ! ! ! ! !

Asthma, emphysema and other lung diseases Cancer. All forms of cancer Candida Diseases of the digestive system including diarrhoea, intestinal parasites, irritable bowel / IBS, bowel cancer Periodontal diseases Immune system disorders

Warning: - only drink H2O2 on an empty stomach, at least 1 hour before or 3 hours after a meal. If taken too close to food, it can damage your digestive system or react with certain foods causing toxic byproducts.

In Australia food-grade hydrogen peroxide is available from HYDROGEN PEROXIDE AUSTRALIA. They will also provide you with a comprehensive book to help you gain a better understanding of how to use this amazing product also as a household product. If you require therapeutic information for its use it is recommended that you also consult your medical practitioner.

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Phone: 0417 154 251 email: hydrogenperoxidesales@gmail.com, www.hydrogenperoxideaustralia.com.au

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cosmetictattoo

THE HEALING PROCESS of a COSMETIC TATTOOING PROCEDURE

by Christine Comans Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner Cosmetic tattoo trainer and educator WHEN performing a cosmetic tattoo procedure colour pigments are impregnated into living tissue. In this article Christine Comans explores the wound healing process during such a procedure and also presents some research findings on what happens to both the tissue and the pigment during the healing phase.

Our skin experiences epidermal wound healing after tattooing.

Tattooing creates a wound that extends to the dermis; the edges of the wound usually involve damage to superficial epidermal cells.

In response to tattooing, basal cells of the epidermis surround the wound break and cells then enlarge and migrate across the wound and engulf the tattoo pigment. These cells appear to migrate as a sheet until advancing cells from opposite sides of the wound meet.

At this point, once the epidermal cells encounter one another, they stop migrating due to a cellular response called contact inhibition, while migration of the cells stops completely when each is finally in contact with other epidermal cells on all sides.

As the epidermal basal cells migrate, a hormone called epidermal growth factor stimulates basal stem cells to divide and repair the ones

that have moved into the wound. The relocated basal epidermal cells divide to build new strata, thus thickening the new epidermis.

THE HEALING PROCESS Immediately following a tattooing procedure, the newly tattooed skin may appear red and inflamed in appearance as the tattoo process has punctured the skin with needles during the procedure and inflicted a wound to the skin at the tattoo site. The body's response to the wound is to send cells to the newly tattooed area to help eliminate microbes and set about repairing the wound. This is why the wound will secrete a clear fluid and be inflamed for up to 48 hours post procedure.

Following a tattooing procedure, the pigment particles are engulfed by cells in the epidermal/dermal junction as well as being suspended in layers of skin above this junction. During this phase the tattoo particles are unstable until they adhere to, or are encapsulated by skin cells. Healing involves a complex interaction of cellular function and activity so the client must be made aware of the importance of compliance with good hygiene practices and appropriate aftercare protocols.

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Ideally, cosmetic tattoos should always be completely protected from sun exposure. This is not always possible, but clients must be warned that sun exposure will cause colour to prematurely fade so using appropriate sun protection is advisable.

THE THREE PHASES OF WOUND HEALING Every wound undergoes three phases of repair. These are as follows and I will attempt to explain each one as it will allow us to understand how best to manage and support this process: ! Inflammatory ! Proliferation ! Maturation The inflammatory phase is your body's natural response to a wound.

After the wound has developed, the blood vessel in the wound contract and a blood clot is formed. Once this has been achieved the blood vessels then dilate to allow all the different cells such as white blood cells, antibodies, enzymes, growth factors and nutrients to reach the wounded area.

This leads to a rise in exudate levels. Exudate is the clear fluid you will see coming from the wound immediately after a tattoo procedure. Remind the client to wipe this fluid away to prevent scabbing as the Prolufication scab is our enemy because it can contribute to scarring.

They must wipe any clear fluid away and apply the aftercare cream often to prevent the build-up of exudate in the initial stages of healing.

contain tactile receptors, nerve endings that are sensitive to touch dendrites and initiate signals of pain, itching etc.

WHAT HAPPENS TO THE TATTOO PIGMENT IN THE SKIN? Immediately after the pigment is tattooed into the skin the lymphatic system moves the suspension or liquid part of the pigment and the solid part of the pigment emulsion remains in the skin. In the initial stages immediately after tattooing the area appears much darker because there is pigment sitting in the epidermis, while any pigment sitting in the epidermis will be shed during the process of keratinisation – a process that takes four to six weeks.

Pigment is engulfed by skin cells and the dermis holds the colour.

This is the colour that will remain in the skin for several years.

The shape and colour of a tattoo remain stable in the skin and usually relatively unchanged for several years. Consequently, inflammatory phase observations have shown that the pigment particles remain in situ (on site or in position) in the skin and the tattoo pigment doesn't react with the host tissue.

Maturation

To i n v e s t i g a t e t h e s e observations an interesting study was conducted to answer the following questions: 1. How profound is the skin injury caused by the tattoo process?

2. What happens to the epidermal-dermal junction basement membrane?

3. How are the pigment particles prevented from moving in the skin?

4. How is it possible for the tattoo to remain without distortion or change of location?

During proliferation, the wound then starts to 'rebuild' with new granulation tissue, SKIN HEALING which is comprised of collagen and extracellular matrix and into which a new network of blood vessels develop, a To answer these questions, ultrathin random and serial sections of process known as angiogenesis. tattoos were examined at the ultra-structural level. Tattoos were removed from volunteers for cosmetic purposes and those involved Healthy granulation tissue is dependent upon the fibroblast receiving in the study had previously had their tattoos applied by both amateurs sufficient levels of oxygen and nutrients supplied by the blood and professional services. Biopsies were taken 24 hours, one month vessels. Healthy granulation tissue is granular and uneven in texture; and 40 years post tattooing. it does not bleed easily and is pink, or red in colour. As the wound requires oxygen make sure the client knows not to over-apply their Biopsy specimens were examined in an electron microscope. aftercare cream as this will prevent oxygen getting to the site and Diameters of the tattoo ink particles were measured with an analysis interfering with the pigment bonding process. Remind the client to system developed specifically for morphometric image analysis. allow the newly tattooed area not to be covered at some time during the initial stages to assist with the oxygenation process.

STUDY RESULTS Following 24 hours post tattooing the tattoo site was covered with a Maturation is the final phase of healing and this occurs once the scab. Ultra-structurally there was extensive damage observed to both wound has closed. This phase involves remodelling of collagen. the epidermis and papillary dermis. Additionally, almost complete Cellular activity then reduces and the number of blood vessels in the homogenisation of the epidermis, epidermal-dermal junction and wounded area to regress and decrease. dermis were shown. Pigment particles were also found in the intracellular space as well as in keratinised cells. Epidermal and Cosmetic Tattooing is a procedure involving controlled insertion of inflammatory cells contained ink particles in their cytoplasm were safe pigment into the papillary dermis. The papillary dermis contains also identified. Small clusters of keratinocytes remained attached to collagen and fine elastic fibres and contains dermal papillae which each other that were connected by desmosomes. are small nipple shaped structures that project into the under surface of the epidermis. All dermal papillae contain blood vessels and some

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One month post tattooing they reported no scab or inflammation at the tattooed site and all inflammatory cells had normalised.

Desmosomes were present at the site and attached to tono-filaments, and there was evidence of a reforming basement membrane at the epidermal-dermal junction. They noted that aggregates of pigment particles in the basal cells were large and bound by a membrane.

In the dermis, the cells were concentrated along the epidermal-dermal border and were closely surrounded by collagen fibres. The RER of these cells was very prominent and studded with ribosomes, and they noted that the cytoplasm contained organelles, but very little RER. Mast cells, endothelial cells, pericytes and Schwann cells did not contain ink particles. Phagosomes varied in the content of a mixture of ink particles, melanosomes, and lipid droplets. There was no pigment found in the lumina of blood and lymphatic vessels or in the extracellular tissue.

After tattooing and during the early stages of the acute inflammatory reaction it was observed that many cells work together and become involved in cleaning up the cellular debris. The keratinocytes showed to be simultaneously taking up pigment particles.

Macrophages and other cells were found in and infiltrated the epidermis via a destroyed basement membrane. These cells seemed to help in the removal of the pigment particles.

After one month, removal of pigment particles through the epidermis was still in progress, and ink particles remained in keratinocytes, macrophages, and fibroblasts. Once the basement membrane at the epidermal-dermal junction had reformed, the concentration of ink particles in the epidermis decreased.

It was also observed that cells containing ink did not penetrate into the epidermis through the fully reformed basement membrane. An extended network of connective tissue elements surrounded each of the cells containing ink particles. For the tattoo to remain as a straight line, it would be imperative for the cells to remain stationary. How and why the tattoo ink particles remain in fibroblasts is not known, but the observation was that fibroblasts are integrally responsible for the lifespan of the tattoo.

not been fully investigated it should be noted that with cosmetic tattooing we are working on a human tissue as the canvas and as such, several factors may contribute to the stability of the colour pigment.

This is why it is important to ensure within your consent and your aftercare instructions the importance of your client or patient to return back for touch-up treatments until the desired outcome is achieved and stabilised.

Christine Comans is a qualified and highly respected cosmetic tattooist based in Perth who specialises in medical cosmetic tattooing. Her work is highly regarded by several plastic surgeons who keep her busy through constant referrals of their patients to her for several procedures include nipple areola after mastectomy. Christine is also passionate about industry standards and has worked extensively promoting the importance of the new industry registration classification CTARP (Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner) for cosmetic tattooists as part of the preparation of future regulations.

Christine is also an accredited trainer who delivers training to a government approved qualification level. If you wish to upgrade your qualifications to government-approved standards or enter this exciting profession by training as a cosmetic tattooist A LIVING CANVAS please contact Christine on 0419 965 933 or Email: As you can see, the healing process of a wound post cosmetic comanschristine@gmail.com tattooing undergoes many phases and there are several factors that can affect the stability of colour within the tissue. While these have

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LEARN FROM THE EXPERT Cosmetic Tattooists, Do you want to advance your knowledge and education to a higher level and transition into Medical Cosmetic Tattooing?

JOIN ME for an intensive 2-day postgraduate training class in 3D nipple areola tattooing

PRICE $2900 Prerequisites: Only offered to qualified cosmetic tattoo practitioners with two years industry experience

Christine Comans is a qualified and highly respected cosmetic tattooist based in Perth who specialises in Medical Cosmetic Tattooing.

PH: 08 9380 6448

Product Innovations The World's First Portable Face Lifting and Body Contouring System Ulfit incorporates two ground-breaking technologies: Micro Focused Ultrasound for successful treatment of skin laxity on the face and Macro Focused Circular Ultrasound to deliver an effective solution for body contouring. This compact, portable unit is ideal for mobile cosmetic injectors, or businesses with limited space. Stand out from the competition and learn how u lf it can b o o st y ou r business’s bottom line and help your clients tighten up and turn back time. Call Ultra

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New Innovation in LED PHOTOTHERAPY EQUIPMENT Clairderm Medical Aesthetics are expert innovators of LED phototherapy equipment. PhotonSmart, the most versatile and advanced LED phototherapy system for aesthetics and medical applications was their first innovation. PhotonLite is their latest innovation in LED phototherapy.

Driven by the need for a smaller, more compact and affordable LED machine that focuses on aesthetic treatments, PhotonLite combines two technologies in one system – LED phototherapy and diamond microdermabrasion. This makes it the professional choice for non-surgical skin rejuvenation with the added benefit of perfecting the skin. It's packed with features: 3 colours,12 built in programs, highly adjustable head, 2 year warranty, user-friendly, compact, lightweight and powerful. Outstanding results are achieved when treating age spots, photo-ageing, acne, skin texture, scars, fine lines and wrinkles with no recovery time. Clinics can also offer a profitable and comprehensive treatment menu of single or combination treatments that are safe and painless yet highly efficacious.

This innovation is part of Clairderm's commitment to drive business success by keeping Australian salons at the forefront of aesthetic treatments with expert technology that delivers consistently the best consumer outcomes.

For more information, contact Clairderm Medical Aesthetics on 1300781 239 or office@clairderm.com and visit us on www.medicalbeautyequipment.com

Aquapure - Gentle and Effective Aquapure is a non-invasive hydrofacial treatment that delivers clearer, more hydrated, younger-looking skin.

AquaPure is ideal for all skin types and targets hyperpigmentation, oily/congested pores, fine lines, and

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wrinkles. The AquaPure comes with three different solutions for exfoliation, sebum-control and collagen

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production. This three-step treatment will have clients’ skin looking clean, refreshed and plump. For more information call 1800 455 441 or email info@ultraaesthetics.com.au

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Introducing SlimLUX from The Global Beauty Group for nonsurgical skin tightening, cellulite reduction and fat reduction NEW - Pure and Simple Makeup Kit from Jane Iredale Makeup does not need to compromise your client’s skin health. With the right makeup you can offer a seamless extension to your skin treatment protocols. Are you looking for a onestop solution to enhancing your clients' natural beauty? Introducing jane iredale's NEW Pure & Simple Makeup Kit (RRP $59), a sample of our bestselling makeup – foundation, blush, eye shadow and lip colour in versatile shades to suit every complexion. For more than 20 years, jane iredale has created makeup that is a true extension of healthy skincare by combining science and nature to develop innovative products. Call today and introduce these amazing kits to your business. Distributed in Australia by Margifox Distributors |

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The SlimLUX V2 is an advanced and dedicated fat cavitation technology designed to target stubborn areas of fat for a slimmer, sculpted figure.

Ultrasound Cavitation is a breakthrough non-surgical technology that works to reduce stubborn areas of fat and cellulite. The advanced hand-piece uses low frequency sound waves to target and disrupt fat cells in problem areas, breaking down the fatty tissue and allowing it to be filtered out through the body's lymphatic system.

The RF Skin Tightening hand-piece transmits radio waves through the upper layers of the skin to the dermis, heating the dermis between 39 and 45 degrees to generate tissue retraction, new collagen formulation and improved circulation for tighter, younger-looking skin.

FOOD-GRADE 35% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE Hydrogen peroxide is simply water with an extra oxygen molecule (H2O2) that breaks down into oxygen and water. H2O2 is produced by animal and plant cells and is formed naturally in the environment by sunlight reacting on water. Hydrogen peroxide is a naturally occurring compound found in nature (oceans, lakes, rivers, rain and snow) and in all life forms. The human body creates and uses hydrogen peroxide to destroy harmful bacteria and viruses Hydrogen Peroxide Australia – One Step Health offers Hydrogen Peroxide in its purest form 35% food-grade, which means it contains NO TOXIC STABILISERS. It is believed that 35% food-grade hydrogen peroxide can assist with many ailments including: allergies, headaches, bacteria, candida parasitic infections, yeast infections, cardiovascular disease, liver cirrhosis, multiple sclerosis, bronchitis, lupus, anaemia, HIV infection, Type II diabetes, chronic pain, cerebral vascular disease, periodontal disease and even cancer. One of the most convenient methods of dispensing 35% H202 is from a small glass dropper bottle that comes with our product. Adding food-grade hydrogen peroxide to your daily health routine is a simple way of supporting your health and wellbeing. For further information and to order contact Gayle

Ash at HYDROGEN PEROXIDE AUSTRALIA Phone: 0417 154 251, email: hydrogenperoxidesales@gmail.com, www.hydrogenperoxideaustralia.com.au

Ultrasound Cavitation and RF Skin Tightening treatments are painless, and popular body contouring alternative to surgery and liposuction.

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Global Beauty Group SlimLUX device and how body contouring and skin tightening devices can add value to your business, call 1300 006 607.

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Then NewGeneration Hair Reduction solution – Diomed -100 On the developing trend of laser hair removal market, DioMed-100 laser (TGA: ARTG ID 242552) is the newest equipment for hair removal. It uses special laser with long pulse width of 808nm, which can penetrate into the hair follicle.

According to selective light absorption theory, laser can be preferentially absorbed by the melanin of the hair and then heating the hair shaft and hair follicle, even to destroy the hair follicle and oxygen organisation around hair follicle. When laser outputs, system with special cooling technology, Diomed 100 cools the skin and protects the skin from being harmed.

Therefore, safe and comfortable treatment effects would be reached!

The DioMed-100 laser consists of a high performance embedded system of centralised control. It adopts 10.4-inch color touch screen, simple to operate. Moreover, it has the super big spot (14mmX12mm) for hair removal, which makes the treatment time quicker. For further information contact

AUSMED Tel 02 8957 2177 or 0424 795 652

A softer, more effective Super Hair Removal technology SHR stands for Super Hair Removal which utilises the most advanced technology of "in motion" to carry out a more gentle approach for hair removal treatment. Research has shown that a slower, but longer heating process is considerably more effective for permanent hair reduction than high and short levels of energy. SHR is able to output 10 shots in just one second. Combining with perfect semi-conductor cooling system, this machine brings totally painless and comfortable treatment feeling. It is more effective than traditional IPL machine.

It also combined FP (Fly Point) mode outputs, which is a series of pulses during operation in different sensitive areas, such as upper lips, hairline, and front ear, etc. By using FP mode to do hair removal, the treatment is more accurate and effective, especially for thin hairs.

FP mode therefore provides more comfortable treatment experience on small areas.

Med Pulse SHR (TGA: 203820) offers a variety of treatment options not just hair removal. These include: skin rejuvenation, wrinkles reduction, skin tightening, acne lightening and elimination, improve skin elasticity, vascular lesions removal,(optional), Telangiectasis curing (optional), freckles eliminating and removal of pigmentations, age spots, sun spots, etc. For further information

contact AUSMED Tel 02 8957 2177 or 0424 795 652

Stratamed - supporting the healing process

Stratacel - healthing for sensitive areas When treating sensitive areas such as the skin around the eyes, lips and nose, specialised products are required to ensure the best post procedure care for patients. Stratacel from Stratapharma, Switzerland, has been specifically designed to help you treat patients and clients around these sensitive areas.

Stratacel creates an environment that speeds up the healing process without compromising on achieving the best aesthetic result.

Stratacel decreases the inflammatory symptoms and provides a soothing effect. Stratacel hydrates the compromised skin and helps to protect against external bacteria. Use Stratacel immediately after your aesthetic procedures.

For further details contact Statpharma Switzerland Ph: 1800 567 007.

Post procedure care is important after any treatment, as patients want to recover as fast as possible, but with the best aesthetic results. Stratamed from Stratpharma, Switzerland, will help you achieve this in your practice for your clients and patients.

Stratamed creates an optimal environment for faster healing, which results in reduced downtime for patients. Stratamed decreases the inflammatory symptoms, reduces burning sensation and provides a soothing effect. Stratamed hydrates the compromised skin and helps to protect against external bacteria. Use Stratamed immediately after your aesthetic procedures for excellent healing results.

For further details contact Statpharma Switzerland Ph: 1800 567 007.

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GET READY FOR AN INCREDIBLE CONFERENCE PROGRAM! This year’s Brisbane conference program promises amazing new information. New scientific breakthroughs, collaborative relationships that can generate more income for you and reposition your business with a fresh more modern contemporary model to attract new clients and support greater loyalty with existing clients.

The latest business strategies, regulatory advances and further professional development units to position you as a leader in your field. If you are serious about business growth and working smarter rather than harder this conference program is a must-attend.

APAN’s point-of-difference is that it is not commercially biased towards any company or products. Our aim is to empower you with generic education, new scientific developments, business strategies and information that will equip you to measure the options available to you through credible educational information. You are a professional and it is important that in the mix of things you also benefit from a totally objective conference program. Please prioritise to attend this amazing event. We promise it will inspire you and open new horizons for you both professionally and with your business.

Our industry is evolving in new and dynamic ways. Join us and be first to benefit from this information. APAN conferences are also about inspiration and valuable networks. We look after you with wonderful food and you get to meet some amazing industry professionals and establish some great connections.

In this issue of APJ we profile one of our members – Carolyn Della Zoppa from Adelaide who flew to Perth to attend our event and is committed to our conference programs because of the value she gains.. This is what she said: The purpose and value of my APAN membership has to do with the importance of being part of an organisation that is committed to improving regulations and training standards for the future of the industry as a whole. It is important that we have a body that is prepared to fight for us.

As a member, I benefit from the credibility of belonging to a leading industry standards body and I also benefit from the confidence that I can turn to a reputable organisation that can offer me support, business advice, legal advice and backup when the need arises. Additionally, APAN's conference programs are fantastic, not only for learning, but building relationships and contacts with other, like-minded professionals as well as with supply companies. Carolyn Della Zoppa - Adelaide.

PLEASE ARRIVE AT 8.30am to collect your delegates kit and network.

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Topic: EPIGENETICS – THE NEW FRONTIER IN HEALTH AND In this lecture you will learn: ! Current industry changes SKINCARE ! New developments in the regulatory space Speaker: Associate Professor Derek !

APAN's evolving role in the industry Richard, Scientific Director, Cancer ! Strategies for positioning yourself for growth and Ageing Research Program, QUT Time: 9am - 9.45am NETWORKING BREAK 11.00AM – 11.30AM Epigenetics is the study of changes in organisms caused by modification of gene expression rather than alteration of the genetic code itself. The field of epigenetics is quickly growing and with it the understanding that both the environment and individual lifestyle can also directly interact with the genome to influence epigenetic change. These changes may be reflected at various stages throughout a person’s life and even in later generations.

To discuss this amazing subject and its relevance to skin ageing, diseases such as cancer and the potential next generation in antiageing skincare Associate Professor Derek Richards will present a compelling lecture outlining new scientific findings and how they are impacting the way we address illnesses and skin health

In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

What is epigenetics?

The role of epigenetic in ageing and skin health How is cell function altered by epigenetics?

Unveiling foreseeable therapies through new scientific discoveries NETWORKING BREAK 9.45AM – 10.15AM (morning tea)

Topic: REBOOT FOR PROFIT Speaker: Caroline Nelson - Nelson Beauty Business Management Time: 11.30am - 12.15pm In her lecture Reboot for Profit, Caroline Nelson will unveil the keys to developing a powerful, productive and profitable business. Participants will gain a better understanding on how to build more profits, gain more clients, and the most successful ways to support and mentor a strong team culture.

They will learn the key to surviving and thriving in the increasingly competitive aesthetics industry with vital tips and tricks of the trade for a flourishing commercial business.

Caroline Nelson is Director of Nelson Beauty Business Management.

She is a renowned aesthetic industry consultant and business development coach, trainer and presenter who specialises in proven practical bottom-line profit-building techniques.

Caroline is renowned for “re-booting” poor performing businesses into high profit with her easy-to-implement strategies and transforming goals into reality.

Caroline’s success is attributed to her phenomenal knowledge of the

Topic: DO YOU KNOW HOW TO INTERPRET CURRENT industry, her understanding of today’s consumer, and her ahead-ofCHANGES? trend aesthetic business knowledge.

Speaker: Tina Viney - CEO of APAN Caroline is a wonderful communicator with incredible energy and an Time: 10.15am - 11.00am infectious passion to see others succeed.

With so many advances in the industry there are shifts and changes happening on so many levels – consumer buying habits, technology and regulations just to name a few. Are you aware how these changes are contributing to a constantly evolving industry and how can they influence your current position for progress and growth? Gain inside information and learn how to best take advantage of them.

Tina Viney is a foremost expert in the area of global trends, industry standards and regulations. She is a passionate advocate in pursuing initiatives that will best support and protect the industry into the future.

This lecture will give you an industry update on the latest developments that will shape the industry now and in future years.

Caroline brings a wealth of knowledge gained over 45+ years of experience and research that is “exclusive” to the professional aesthetic industry. Caroline is proud to have assisted countless salon, spa and clinics around nation-wide to realise their dreams of business success.

In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

Easy to apply Time Management techniques – the difference between effectiveness and efficiency The best ways to recruit and the quickest ways to train and develop high achievers make your training dollars generate maximum sales Easy to implement Systems and Processes – for higher productivity and increased bottom-line profits Ways to maximise aesthetic technology program sales – make your equipment profit builders instead of a dust collectors

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LUNCH BREAK 12.15 – 1.15PM 0

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Topic: HORMONES AND THE SKIN Speaker: Gay Wardle – Lecturer, Multi-award winner Time: 1.15pm – 2.00pm The endocrine system is one of the most important factors that impacts the ageing of the body and the skin. This wonderful system produces and regulates hormones that decline with age, illness, stress, medications and diet, just to mention a few. The effects these declining levels have a great impact on the skin. In this lecture Gay Wardle will help you gain a more comprehensive understanding of the impact of hormones on skin health and skin disorders.

Gay is a highly qualified and experienced clinician who is passionate about sharing her knowledge with practitioners and clinics who wish to bring their treatment results to the next level. She is an amazing educator and travels in every state sharing her knowledge in the area of Advanced Skin Analysis theory and practice, nutrition for the skin and how to effectively work with technologies to achieve incredible treatment outcomes.

In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

The role of the endocrine systems in health and disease prevention The impart of hormones on skin disorders How to identify dysfunction within the endocrine system Treatment options and solutions NETWORKING BREAK 2.00PM - 2.30PM

Topic: TOPICAL ANAETHETICS EDUCATION, QUALIFICATIONS AND REGULATIONS Speaker: Chris Testa – Compounding Pharmacist, Senior Lecturer Time: 2.30pm – 3.15pm The issue of topical anaesthetic for nonmedical practitioners currently has several regulatory restrictions.

To p i c : B O O S T Y O U R B O T T O M - L I N E T H R O U G H C O M P L E M E N TA RY A H E A LT H COLLABORATION Speaker: Miesha Marie Time: 3.45pm - 4.30pm Today's consumers are looking for skin treatment results that are substantially more advanced than in past years. To achieve this you require both advanced techniques as well as the support of cutting edge technologies.

In past years consumers with a skin problem visited their doctor for solutions, and to their skin therapist just to refresh their skin and feel better, but not for corrective purposes. This is now changing with modern tools and advanced procedures.

However, when dealing with stubborn skin conditions underlying systemic imbalances are often contributing factors. This is where a collaborative relationship with a naturopath or healthcare practitioner can substantially improve treatment outcomes by diagnosing and addressing underling inflammation and concerns.

Miesha Marie is qualified Naturopath and also holds qualifications in cosmetic chemistry as well as Business Management, Website Development and Digital Technologies. In this presentation she will discuss how businesses can substantially grow their income by establishing a successful and supportive collaboration with a complementary health practitioner. Having achieve success in this are Miesha will present successful strategies and ways of extending your business offerings and retaining and growing your clientele.

In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

How naturopathy can benefit your clients and your treatment outcomes Setting up a successful collaboration Ways to promote these services Marketing and promotional strategies

PRE-REGISTRATION IS ESSENTIAL FOR CATERING PURPOSES

However, the pursuit of education and further qualifications is strongly contributing towards future regulatory changes.

APAN MEMBERS: $239 - Non members $255.

Special rates apply for group bookings of three or more.

In 2015 APAN together with Chris Testa launched a professional development program – Introduction to the safe use of Topical Anaesthetics. In 2017 APAN is delighted to introduce the Advanced Course: Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetics.

To register for the Brisbane Conference visit www.apanetwork.com and complete your registration form on-line or phone 07 55930360 for any further questions.

Chris Testa is a highly respect Compound Pharmacist and senior lecturer at Griffith University on the subject of topical anaesthetics.

Chris will present a regulatory overview as it relates to the acquisition of topical anaesthetics and the implications for clinical practice – current and future changes.

FOR HOTEL ACCOMMODATION AT THE STAMFORD PLAZA PLEASE PHONE 07 3221 1999 AND REQUEST THE APAN CONFERENCE RATES. THE STAMFORD PLAZA IS LOCATED AT THE CORNER OF EDWARD AND MARGARET STREETS, BRISBANE Q 4000.

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In this lecture you will learn:

! ! ! !

The pharmacist's and the compounder's obligation relating to supply as well as patient and clinical support The importance of patient evaluation and disclosure Medical conditions, interaction with medication and supplements When and how to refer to a GP in line with current regulations

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NETWORKING BREAK 3.15PM - 3.45PM (afternoon tea) 5

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0

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salonbusiness

Is Management and Employee Disconnect

DAMAGING YOUR BOTTOM LINE?

by Caroline Nelson

CONFLICT in the workplace can often destroy morale, staff harmony and undermine business performance. Here business coach Caroline Nelson offers valuable advice on how to overcome this common workplace challenge.

It seems that over the past few years more and more business owners are finding it harder to connect with their employees with both management and staff at odds as to who is in the right and who is in the wrong. Management often believe that employees are underperforming or too demanding. On the other hand, employees often feel they are not heard and listened too and/or are missing out on some perceived benefits.

Reviewing both sides, it would be fair to recognise that both have genuine grievances and concerns. That said, it doesn't help if management bury their head in the sand and ignore the situation, nor does it help if employee disconnect leads to grumbling back-stabbing gatherings in the staff room as this ultimately leads to substandard service that is detrimental to the business. Solutions must be identified and implemented and with the right strategies this can be achieved.

Numerous times when this type of situation has been allowed to fester I've been called in as a trouble shooter. Often by this stage the disconnect has become so bad it is often crippling the business,

impacting on client experience and certainly having a negative effect on profits. This doesn't have to happen. Corrections can be made, but first we need to review the situation in full to identify the root of the problem. Then a action plan must be identified and quickly implemented leaving emotions out, while management and staff learn to work cohesively to achieve a harmonious and productive outcome.

From a management point of view my advice is to start by looking at your employees as real people. And by that I don't mean making them BBFs (butt buddies forever) because they will never be this. Instead view them as people who both within the workplace and outside of it have ideas, accomplishments, successes, failures and challenges.

Keeping in mind as employees it is not their business and therefore they will never have the same level of commitment you have, but that said it is their job to work and support the profitability of the business.

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Every employer wants and needs good employee engagement. It's a critically important driver to success. It generates energy and enthusiasm and builds a positive culture. Again and again it has been proven that engaged employees are more fulfilled by their work, more productive, have less sick days and are more motivated to create satisfied and loyal clients.

While this is the ideal, more often than not there is a lack of

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understanding between your employees and management. So how can that be effectively addressed? To do this you first need to understand exactly what the problem/s are before the solutions can be implemented.

From my observations and research I've found the five influencing stresses and/or grievances for management are: 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Lack of time management skills and tools that can and will contribute to out-of-whack work/life balance causing serious stress Lack of leadership and operational management skills and tools Inadequate staffing levels to deliver the services Inadequately trained staff Lack of appropriate technology

Let's look at the five influencing stresses and/or grievances for employees: 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

Lack of management leadership Unclear job expectations and guidelines Inadequate training Lack of career advancement opportunities Low pay and/or lack of a good incentive bonus program

Both sides have several similar influencing stresses and/or grievances. These, on the whole, can only be effectively addressed by management. Getting these stresses under control will lift an enormous weight off the shoulders of both management as well as the staff.

It starts with developing quality time management skills by sticking to a plan, schedule or 'to do' list, instead of jumping from one task to another without fully completing the first. If you're a 'working therapist' in the business you will need to block out specific time to work on your business. Don't try and squeeze a few minutes here and there between appointments because this never works. Effective management requires that you dedicate time to this. My advice is that you should also try not to take work home that can and should be completed in business hours.

Your task will require that you streamline business operations wherever possible, including treatment protocols and processes. This will save you both time and money. Train your team to be timeefficient in all tasks, while delivering and maintaining the desired standards. Once you have better systems in place you will feel more confident to take time off allowing a better work/life balance.

They say a business without a leader is like an army without a general.

Any business without direction, plans, strategies and goals is like an army going to war without an operational combat plan. Both will fail.

Make sure your team is equipt with a complete and up-to-date staff handbook or manual. This needs to be set out in simple, easy to follow guidelines that clearly outline expectations and exactly how you require them to perform their assigned tasks. The manual should be readily available for your team members, as well as for potential employment candidates at their interview, because it is a waste of time for you, as well as the future employee, if they can't or are not prepared to follow the guidelines. This must be stressed from the start.

If you plan to employ staff then you must also plan for ongoing and continuous staff training in both treatment technical, communication and sales skills. If you either can't, don't or won't provide this for your employees then you should not be an employer. It's just that simple.

Technology and advanced techniques are rapidly overtaking some of

the more traditional aesthetic beauty services. Unfortunately some business owners either do not want to provide these services, or have failed to financially plan for the purchase of the equipment and/or training required. Not moving with the times and keeping on trend could be likened to trying to use an old “brick” phone instead of a smart phone - you just won't get a signal. In addition, a lack of technology and advanced services will mean your employees professional development will stagnate, often leading to unrest and poor staff retention.

When a business is not operated on a sound commercial basis with a well-balanced marketing plan, this will lead to low bottom-line profits, if any at all. And without profits and growth employees will never have the potential to reach targets and earn incentive bonuses.

It's a Catch 22 situation that ultimately leads to management and staff disconnect.

As I said earlier, identifying the situation in full, acting quickly and with the appropriate strategies, leaving emotions out, can quickly turn things around as management and staff learn to work cohesively together to achieve a harmonious and productive outcome.

If you need expert advice or support to implement your solutions please contact me. © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2017 Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specialises in helping businesses develop their brand, improve productivity and increase bottom-line profit. To learn more about her step-bystep program for salon spa success visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 0410600440.

APAN FACEBOOK Join in the fun,share and learn

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Connect with APAN and let your voice be heard – gain insider knowledge, have fun, network, stay up-to-date with the events, news and the latest industry insights via our professional online community – find us: APAN.page | @apanetwork apanetwork.com | @apanetwork | http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page

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Why Refresher Courses add to your Skills?

“There is no saturation point in education” Thomas J. Watson, IBM founder

WOULD you agree there always exists some knowledge that you need to get refreshed, within your area of expertise? I am sure you would.

WE OFFER TRAINING IN

safety, quality, processes and procedures. Now, we will see why you need to refresh knowledge of your existing employees and when refresher training has to be delivered to them.

Protocols and techniques to greater success in your practice.

Prerequisite – HLTIN402B Maintain infection control standards in office practice settings, Certificate IV or Diploma in Beauty Therapy.

Or a strong health background. On successful completion, you will receive a Statement of Attendance. * Non-accredited.

CHEMICAL PEELS – Comprehensive training in a variety of AHAs and advanced peels* Most often, refresher training is delivered in the areas of compliance,

Our industry is constantly evolving and changing leading to a need for up-skilling to improve treatment outcomes and support business growth. We often encounter with time the loss of our skills. There are various reasons for their degradation. These could be because of lack of regular use or that new techniques and technologies are replacing old methods. Whatever the reasons may be, the needs for refresher training has to be identified and addressed to ensure that the skills are updated and remain current.

Let's see how refresher training is important in the workplace:

! Improve on existing skills ! Bring you up-to-date with new technology ! Gain the best treatment outcomes from you client ! Gain the best value from your staff ! Bridge the knowledge gap between GenYs and boomers ! Increase your revenue WHEN SHOULD YOU UP-SKILL? Periodic refreshments in training would be a good idea, but most often refresher training can be beneficial even before the specified period. Generally, it is delivered in cycles once in every three months or six months. Usually this period is decided based upon the kind of job, the skills and the critical safety factors required to do the job. But how can you identify when your existing employees are in need of refresher training?

Here are some signs to help you get to know the need to deliver refresher training to your employees.

! Repeatedly failing to complete the assigned tasks on/in time ! Poor response to training given ! Poor treatment results ! Lack of interest in their work ! Frequent accidents or safety mishaps ! Finding it difficult to take up or adapt to new concepts Refresher training will assist your staff to boost self-confidence and morale. It is therefore a valuable pursuit to devote sufficient time to refresh your employees in current skills, increase their competencies and ultimately increases the organisation's reputation. Adding new skills to your offering can also provide your business with new areas of growth.

Beauty Therapy Training Australia is a Registered Training Organisation located on the beautiful Gold Coast at Kirra Beach specialising in short courses as well as advanced post graduate courses.

SKIN NEEDLING – This is a two-day intensive training program* Skin needling, also known as collagen induction therapy.

Prerequisite – HLTIN402B Maintain infection control standards in office practice settings, Certificate IV or Diploma in Beauty Therapy.

On successful completion, you will receive a Statement of Attendance. * Non-accredited.

NON-SURGICAL FACELIFTING AND BODY SHAPING* (cavitation, ultrasound, radio frequency) Duration: 3-day practical training Non-surgical facelifting and body shaping is considered to be a natural alternative to liposuction.

Prerequisite – Certificate IV or Diploma in Beauty Therapy. Or strong health related background. On successful completion, you will receive a Statement of Attendance. * Non-accredited.

INTENSE PULSED LIGHT - IPL + REFRESHER COURSE Duration: 3-day practical training Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), includes many wavelengths of light which can be filtered to acquire the wavelength needed to reach the desired chromophore target (melanin, water, haemoglobin, porphyrin). IPL can target multiple skin conditions including vascular disorders, pigmented lesions, acne, hair removal and photo damaged skin. Due to technological advances, IPL's clinical outcomes are becoming increasingly comparable to cosmetic laser systems.

Prerequisite – Certificate IV or Diploma in Beauty Therapy. Or strong health back ground

OTHER COURSES INCLUDE

! Light Emitting Diodes – LED + Refresher Courses ! SHBBSKS005 – Provide Microdermabrasion Treatments – Crystal and Diamond 100

For Dates and more Information Please contact: BTTA - BEAUTY THERAPY TRAINING AUSTRALIA Ph: (07) 5599 5568 Location: Face Magic MediSpa & Beauty Therapy Training Australia 7/1 Douglas Street Kirra QLD 4225 www.beautytherapytraining.com.au

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It has finally arrived!

ADVANCED COURSE: SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS We are delighted to announce that following the Introductory Course in the Safe Use of Topical Anaesthetics we are now launching the ADVANCED COURSE IN THE SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS. The training will be delivered by Compounding Pharmacist Chris Testa. Chris is a highly respected guest lecturer on the topic of pharmaceutical compounding and the regulatory aspects of compounding which he delivers at the School of Pharmacy, Griffith University. He is also the owner and manager of Tugun Compounding Pharmacy.

COURSE OUTLINE AND LEARNING OBJECTIVES 1. REGULATORY OVERVIEW

! !

Scheduling of topical anaesthetics Pharmacist's and Compounder's obligation relating to supply as well as patient and clinical support

Learning Objectives: After this session you will be able to: ! Establish procedures for your own clinic to ensure regulations are met in relation to acquisition of topical anaesthetics for patients. ! Explain the role and responsibilities of pharmacists in relation to supply of topical anaesthetics.

2. PATIENT EVALUATION

!

Patient disclosure, patient information collection, documentation and evaluation. (Form templates and tools to facilitate evaluation)

Learning Objectives: After this session you will be able to: ! Develop a patient information collection form for your own clinic. ! Determine from the information collected if a topical anaesthetic is contraindicated for a particular patient or if special precautions are needed. ! Prepare a referral letter for the patients GP if a medical release is required, or a prescription only topical anaesthetic formulation is needed.

3. SELECTION OF THE APPROPRIATE TOPICAL ANAESTHETIC FORMULATION

!

Properties of topical anaesthetics, ephinephrine and vehicles used as bases for each formulation.

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! ! ! !

Learning Objectives: After this session you will be able to: ! Demonstrate an ability to apply key safety principals and procedures to the workplace. ! Prepare an action plan for tailoring and integration of various templates, information sheets, into your daily clinic practice.

Systemic absorption, metabolism and clearance of local anaesthetics.

Matching the formula to the patient and procedure.

Calculating the exact amount of actives applied.

Review of available clinical data on systemic absorption of local anaesthetics and practical application of this information.

Learning Objectives: After this session you will be able to: ! Select the most appropriate topical anaesthetic formulation for each patient. ! Demonstrate a sound understanding of the properties of each active ingredient in each formula. ! Be able to calculate the exact dose of a topical anaesthetic that would be applied in each procedure.

WHO SHOULD UNDERTAKE THIS TRAINING? This course will be considered as part of a proposed regulatory framework for the aesthetics industry and is recommended for all cosmetic tattoo practitioners, cosmetic nurses, dermal therapists and aesthetic therapists who perform any skin penetration procedures or advanced procedures that require pain management.

To register for this course you will need to have completed the Introductory Course, which is now also available as an on-line study course for those who have not completed it (see page 111).

4. SAFE APPLICATION OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS

! ! ! ! ! !

Skin preparation.

How much to apply, duration of application and surface area of application.

Precautions.

Minor and serious adverse effects and how to respond.

Evaluation of procedure and outcomes.

Aftercare and take home information for the patient.

This course is also recognised as part of ARAP Registration for qualified practitioners (see page 97 for further details).

Date of Training: Monday 31st July 2017 following the APAN Aesthetics Conference Time: 9.30am - 4.30pm Location: Brisbane (to be advised) Meals and refreshments will be provided Cost: $330

Learning Objectives: After this session you will be able to: ! Explain the safe application principals and how these are to be applied in practise. ! Identify adverse effects and develop a response strategy.

This is a full day Post Graduate Professional Development Course and will include manual and Statement of Completion.

5. WORKSHOP AND CASES

!

A practical application of various templates, tools and worksheets provided to patient and clinic settings.

To register please visit www.apanetwork.com.

For further details contact APAN 07 5593 0360.

SERVING AND SHAPING THE NEXT GENERATION OF INDUSTRY LEADERS DOING BUSINESS BETTER, HELP WITH: Regulatory compliance issues Best Code of Ethics Risk Management Strategies Latest Consumer Trends Strategies for Better Money Management Successful Strategies for Profit Growth

! ! ! ! ! !

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CLASSIFICATIONS ! Corporate Platinum Membership for five or more staff ! Gold Membership for Individuals and Smaller Enterprises ! Gold Membership (Degree) for Degree-qualified Nurses & Dermal Therapists

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! Gold Membership (Cosmetic Tattoo) for Cosmetic Tattooists ! Gold Membership (Medical) for Cosmetic Medical Practitioners

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APAN – AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK Please contact us for further details Ph: 07 5593 0360 | Email: info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com to apply online or download an Application Form APJ 65

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BUSINESS GROWTH HAS NEVER BEEN THIS EASY Alma is a renowned global brand now introduced to the Australian aesthetic professional market a range of clinically-proven equipment at never before seen affordable prices! Clinics can be confident in obtaining the results that will change their clients' lives, while at the same time producing an impressive return on investment.

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SHR gradually heats the dermis to a temperature that is able to effectively damage hair follicles and also prevent regrowth of the hair follicles, while very importantly avoiding injury to surrounding tissue. With Super Hair Removal the hair follicles do not get exposed Designed for dermal and beauty therapists from to one single pulse of high energy because the inventors of the globally-renowned SHR using a single pulse of high energy can have Technology, this equipment is taking the beauty the risk of injuring the skin. Instead the industry by storm. It is clear that the industry has been waiting for leaders like Alma to manufacture a product follicle receives multiple, short and low-energy pulses range that delivers on all levels of expectation without accumulating enough energy to damage the hair follicle. With the equipment supplied from Spectrum parameters are unrealistic price tags. provided to ensure the correct accumulated energy resulting in Spectrum Managing Director Ben Skeggs says “Quality, the most effective results. proven reliability and clinically-proven equipment are paramount when investing your hard earned dollar, Up until An in-motion method is used with SHR by moving the now, ticking all these boxes has come at a cost and made it handpiece multiple times over the area being treated to ensure full coverage of the treated area (cooling facilitates virtually almost impossible to make a return on investment!” painless but very effective hair removal). Grid templates are The new Alma Beauty equipment leverages off the clinically- used to ensure the most effective results. proven technology that has been predominantly utilised by the medical profession. The main focus of this equipment has Four technologies have been released into Australia by been all about delivering the same level of quality and results Spectrum: at a price that is no longer out of reach for non medical clinics. ! Laser Hair Removal Machine (SHR) – Alma Remove ! IPL Machine (SHR option)– Alma Rejuve A step-by-step guide on the patented and trade-marked SHR ! Body and Face Contouring Machine – Alma Reform technology which has taken the global market by storm ! Rejuvenation Machine - Alma Reboost SHR is becoming a very common term globally when people We highly recommend you to take a look at the Alma line for speak about hair removal and IPL technology. SHR was its clinically-proven results and affordable price. developed, patented and trade-marked by Alma Lasers and Spectrum has the exclusive rights to supply this beauty Distributed by Spectrum Science & Beauty technology in Australia. It is a huge competitive advantage to 1300 766 198 clinics that have purchased from Spectrum because of the sales@spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au| quality of treatment outcomes and being able to use the www.spectrumsciencebeauty.com.au |

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15/01/2017 9:26:00 PM

transdermaldelivery

THE TRANSDERMAL DELIVERY OF PEPTIDE CREAMS

by Dr Zac Turner

WITH the increasing number of peptide creams currently available and each becoming bigger and bigger in molecular size, researchers are looking into all possible alternatives to deliver the peptide drugs in the safest and the most non-invasive ways. Transdermal delivery of peptide creams is becoming increasingly popular as avoiding the needle and its costs are what patients are after.

PEPTIDE CREAMS FOR ANTI-AGEING AND WELLNESS Peptide creams formulations have taken the skincare industry by storm and are being utilised for treating crow's feet, baggy eyes, wrinkles and much more. We are now seeing a new movement of peptide creams to help treat not only the face and skin, but also our bodies as a whole. From increasing muscle size, repair, anti-ageing,

fat-loss, or even getting that perfect tan, peptide creams are rapidly increasing in popularity. Gone are the days of having to inject peptides directly under your skin. Now there are peptide creams that have made their use much easier. The creams are rubbed into the forearms and are absorbed into the skin removing the need to use needles. Here are some peptide creams available on the market:

! ! ! ! ! ! !

Ipamorelin – anti-ageing BCP-157 – body regeneration GHRP-6 – muscle bulk SARMS s22 – lean muscle multiplier AOD-9604 – fat metaboliser CJC-1295 w/DAC – synergistic amplification; and Melanotan II – active tan

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The question most people are asking is how effective are these creams when compared to peptide injections? I therefore would like us to look at how transdermal absorption works and how effective they really are using today's scientific research.

TRANSDERMAL ABSORPTION Transdermal absorption means taking a route of transportation through the epidermis of the skin to deliver an active ingredient, in our case peptides, into the blood stream where it can be used throughout the body. This is very beneficial, as by comparison, when ingesting a pill, the pill first has to work its way through the GI tract, which can be extremely complex, especially if there are digestive issues that can inhibit the active ingredient into the blood stream. On the other hand, the delivery of active substances via injections also have their concerns as many individuals are not needle friendly.

As we are all aware, our body's largest organ is the skin. Covering the entire surface area of the body the skin outweighs any one of our internal organs. As the most outer layer on the body, it acts a first contact barrier fighting to keep unwanted foreign substances out, while simultaneously helping retain, or hold onto wanted molecules such as water.

Each peptide is made up of a different molecule and each having a different size and weight creating an issue for those larger molecules to penetrate the skin. The larger the molecule the more difficult it is to penetrate the epidermis of the skin. Without penetration and travel through the epidermis, the peptide would never reach the dermis skin layer where our capillaries are (the first contact of our blood stream).

Over the course of many years of research, scientists have found ways to more efficiently transport those larger molecules through the skin.

We will look into the ways scientists are finding to achieve and enhance transportation of peptide molecules through the skin using biochemical enhancers, dermarollers, electroporation and sonophoresis.

The most efficient transdermal enhancer today is known as DMSO, dimtheylsulfoxide. This disrupts the phospholipid bilayers and allows the peptide to 'tag along' through the cells in order to reach the blood stream where it can then be utilised properly. The photo below and 0.4 show just how efficient the enhancer can be in a series of timed snapshots before and after DMSO has been applied to a cell.

The aqua molecules represent H2O, DMSO in yellow, and the phospholipid bilayer consists of Nitrogen (blue), Carbon (grey), Oxygen (red), and Hydrogen (white) atoms. This really gives you visualisation on how the cells keep their integrity. Notice the bilayer structure connected by the hydrogen atoms bonds (white area) where each tail end meet. The DMSO was applied to the outer region of the cell and due to its permeability you can see it disrupts the bilayer giving access to penetrate through the skin without causing any side effects such as irritation and allergic reaction. These types of penetration enhancers are in almost all peptides and they tend to be very large in molecular size.

TRANSDERMAL DELIVERY THROUGH DERMAL NEEDLING As you are aware different dermal rollers have different needle lengths; however anywhere between 0.20-0.35mm in needle length is perfect for peptide creams. This needle length is just enough to penetrate into the skin at the basal epidermal layers to reach those cells that contain the phospholipid bilayer. Since the needle depth is so short, recovery time for the skin is negligible. This is the best at home treatment for the skin when administering peptide creams.

THERMAL ABLATION

PENETRATION ENHANCERS Let's take a brief look at the mechanisms that effect the penetration of substances into the skin?

The skin is made up by millions of cells and each of these has a phospholipid bilayer. This bilayer keeps things inside the cells as well as protects certain substances from entering the cell. These enhancers are used to help drug delivery through the skin. By adding a biochemical or chemical enhancer, peptide and some type of base solvent transportation through the bilayer can be achieved.

Moving on to a much more intensive skin resurfacing treatment, thermal ablation uses high intensive thermal lasers that penetrate through the epidermis. Lasers create extremely high temperatures in concentrated areas, which use the H2O molecules surrounding the cells vaporising them and destroying the cells surrounding the H2O molecule. This creates tiny micro channels to allow easy access of topical creams applied after treatment. This is similar to the dermaroller micro-needling treatment, but it is more efficient and the results last much longer with evidence of more drastic changes.

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This type of transdermal treatment is used to treat extreme acne scars, wrinkles, aged skin, hyperpigmentation (melasma), and restores collagen on a much higher level when compared to dermalrollers.

Strength and depth of the laser can be increased or decreased depending on what the patient wants to achieve. The downside with

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this is that this treatment does have some downtime post treatment, however, at the most, two weeks.

ELECTROPORATION This transdermal delivery system creates multiple short high-voltage pulses in order to disrupt the cells protective outer lining – the phospholipid bilayer. Tiny porous holes are formed throughout the cellular membrane and create a pathway for the peptide creams to permeate through and reach the blood stream. The amount of time for permeability to be achieved post-treatment is still under investigation. Different amount of energy at different pulse rates are all being researched and found to give different results in different environments. The pathways are created between the interaction of the dipole H2O molecule and the electrical pulsations created by this technology. Skin irritation, patient safety, cell integrity and costly machinery are a concern when using electroporation. This type of transdermal delivery is also dependent on the electrical charge of the peptide cream. Electroporation works more efficiently when used in conjunction to an additional treatment such as sonophoresis, or iontophoresis.

REFERENCES: Andrews, S. N., Jeong, E., &Prausnitz, M. R. (2013). Transdermal Delivery of Molecules is Limited by Full Epidermis, Not Just Stratum Corneum.Pharmaceutical Research, 30(4), 1099–1109. http://doi.org/10.1007/s11095-012-0946-7 Arora, A., Prausnitz, M., &Mitragotri, S. (2008).Micro-scale Devices for Transdermal Drug Delivery. International Journal of Pharmaceutics, 364(2), 227–236. http://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpharm.2008.08.032 Bruno, B. J., Miller, G. D., & Lim, C. S. (2013). Basics and recent advances in peptide and protein drug delivery. Therapeutic Delivery, 4(11), 1443–1467. http://doi.org/10.4155/tde.13.104 De Morais, O. O., Lemos, É. F. L., Sousa, M. C. dos S., Gomes, C. M., Costa, I. M. C., & de Paula, C. D. R. (2013). The use of ablative lasers in the treatment of facial melasma. AnaisBrasileiros de Dermatologia, 88(2), 238–242. http://doi.org/10.1590/S0365-05962013000200009 Ita, K. (2016). Perspectives on Transdermal Electroporation.

Pharmaceutics,8(1), 9.http://doi.org/10.3390/pharmaceutics8010009 Kalluri, H., &Banga, A. K. (2011). Transdermal Delivery of Proteins.

AAPS PharmSciTech, 12(1), 431–441. http://doi.org/10.1208/s12249-011-9601-6 Notman, R., den Otter, W. K., Noro, M. G., Briels, W. J., & Anwar, J. (2007). The Permeability Enhancing Mechanism of DMSO in Ceramide Bilayers Simulated by Molecular Dynamics. Biophysical Journal, 93(6), 2056–2068. http://doi.org/10.1529/biophysj.107.104703 Paudel, K. S., Milewski, M., Swadley, C. L., Brogden, N. K., Ghosh, P., &Stinchcomb, A. L. (2010).Challenges and opportunities in dermal/transdermal delivery. Therapeutic Delivery, 1(1), 109–131.

SONOPHORESIS Lastly, sonophoresis for transdermal delivery is a painless treatment option and independent of the peptides electrical characteristics. Just like in ultrasound, low frequency wavelengths are used. With this modality they achieve transdermal delivery by moving tiny air molecules back and forth to create spaces between the cells so that the creams may pass through more easily. Unlike electroporation that uses H2O molecules as its mechanism of action, sonophoresis uses what is known as cavitation. Cavitation means to fill an empty space with some object, in this case using tiny pockets of air that sit between cells and replacing them with our peptide cream of choice. This cavitation creates tiny channels between the cells achieving the transdermal delivery into the blood stream. This type of treatment is dependent on the concentration of those 'microbubbles' that are in between the cells. As these tiny pockets of air molecules are normally between cells, researchers are looking into better ways to manufacture these tiny bubbles beneath our skin to achieve the most efficient and safest way of transdermal delivery.

CONCLUSION As novel substances are being discovered to help with skin and body health scientists and researchers are constantly investigating to identify new mechanisms for transdermal delivery as this has been identified as a growing industry. Who knows what new mode of transportation they may discover, from enhancing and resurfacing the skin, increasing muscle size, injury repair, to even treating types of cancer transdermal delivery becomes more an efficient and safer way to received rugs.

Park, D., Song, G., Jo, Y., Won, J., Son, T., Cha, O., … Seo, J. (2016).Sonophoresis Using Ultrasound Contrast Agents: Dependence on Concentration. PLoS ONE, 11(6), e0157707. http://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0157707 Prausnitz, M. R., & Langer, R. (2008). Transdermal drug delivery.

Nature Biotechnology, 26(11), 1261–1268. http://doi.org/10.1038/nbt.1504 Singh, A., &Yadav, S. (2016). Microneedling: Advances and widening horizons. Indian Dermatology Online Journal, 7(4), 244–254. http://doi.org/10.4103/2229-5178.185468

Dr Zac Turner has a broad medical background specialising in regenerative, cosmetic and aesthetic medicine. He believes that through a holistic assessment of one’s health we can enable them to live longer, healthier and happier. Dr Zac has become involved in both men’s health and preventative health space. He has owned and currently involved with clinics in the holistic health arena and in the delivery of injectable aesthetic enhancement. To contact Dr Zac please email zac@drzac.co

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personaldevelopment

COMPASSION

How to activate your brain's caring centre

by Tina Viney IN A WORLD of continued escalating aggression, kindness and compassion seems to be in short supply and yet these qualities are never needed more. Many chronic health conditions – mental, physical and emotional can often benefit from the healing qualities of loving kindness. In this article we explore what research is discovering about the benefit of compassion in our lives and how we can stimulate our brains to respond to these soothing emotions.

The quality of cultivating and expressing compassion is central to just about every religion and also a major focus in the field of psychology. Concepts like “mindfulness” or “loving-kindness meditation” have been steadily growing in popularity for several decades and today a large body of evidence supports the belief that compassion has benefits related to both mental and physical health.

But despite what you might think about compassion, it's not merely about just being nicer or more agreeable.

Rather than requiring that you agree with everyone you engage with, compassion means showing up more honestly, being more present, remaining open to feedback and really listening. The Harvard Business Review calls compassion “a better managerial tactic than toughness.” Experts on Emotional Intelligence stress the importance of cultivating more compassion specifically for things like

developing more honesty in relationships and even becoming more productive at work.

Compassion is tied to emotional intelligence/correctness because it brings attention to the tone and body language we use when speaking with others, how we show respect, handle feedback or criticism and the way we make others feel when they're being vulnerable around us.

No one is perfectly compassionate all the time, of course, but those who make an effort to purposefully act more compassionately tend to have stronger relationships, feel happier and more confident, experience better moods, maintain a healthier lifestyle and bounce back from adversity more effectively.

Here's the good news: Regardless of where you may fall on the compassion versus judgment/criticism spectrum right now, you can develop more compassion. Research suggests that mindfulness interventions, particularly those with an added loving-kindness component, have strong potential to increase both compassion toward others in need, and also self-compassion.

Through practices like prayer and meditation (which actually helps grow your brain), engaging in perspective-taking, opening up about your insecurities and volunteering to help others, you may notice a serious increase in positive emotions and your quality of life.

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WHAT IS COMPASSION? The definition of compassion is “sympathetic pity and concern for the sufferings or misfortunes of others.” What exactly does it mean to be more compassionate? Other ways we commonly describe compassion include showing empathy, sympathy, care, concern, sensitivity, warmth or simply love. What would the opposite of compassion look like? Indifference, cruelty and harsh criticism.

Some compassion experts describe being compassionate as “suffering along with”. This can mean suffering along with another person or even with yourself in the case of self-compassion. In other words, it means stopping judgment/evaluation and resisting the act of labelling people (including ourselves) as either “good” or “bad”.

Compassion simply means accepting with an open, kind heart and recognising that everyone has strengths and weaknesses.

IS OUR COMPASSION DECLINING? Much of the debate regarding the need for increased compassion has to do with concerns about whether living in the “digital age” may be impacting our ability to be empathetic, vulnerable with others and non-judgmental. One clear impact is that many people now suffer from nomophobia, or fear of being without your smartphone.

Considering the use of cell phones for texting, video calls for communicating and social media for “socialising” are unprecedented in human history, these forms of interaction can basically be viewed as a large social experiment.

Researchers are now digging into the important questions regarding the use of social platforms that require less face-to-face time and our levels of happiness. We're left wondering if it's possible that these convenient, omnipresent forms of digital communication may be greatly stifling our compassion and well-being.

Several studies have indicated that the prolonged use of social networking sites (SNS) such as Facebook may be related to signs and symptoms of depression. Experts believe there are several reasons why digital communication and social media use may lower compassion and positive feelings: they increase comparison among social classes, make it harder to understand feedback accurately and distort our accomplishments, priorities and/or values.

For example, the use of social media makes it easy to compare ourselves to the successes of others and makes it feel like we aren't doing things right. And when we can't use body language and tone to communicate via text or email, we may be more easily misunderstood or likelier to be harsh, or bold when communicating.

Aside from the use of digital devices, our social class also seems to influence feelings of compassion toward people who are suffering.

Studies have found that less affluent individuals are more likely to report feeling compassion toward others – they can better relate to other's pain. Research also suggests the opposite is true: As people climb the social ladder and acquire more wealth, their compassionate feelings toward other people tend to decline.

Upper class individuals have been found in studies to be worse at recognising the emotions of others, less likely to pay attention to people they are interacting with and less likely to take care of people who are vulnerable. Why so? It seems that wealth and abundance “give us a sense of freedom and independence from others. The less we have to rely on others, the less we may care about their feelings”.

Meanwhile, the more we can work, shop and carry on all from the comforts of home without actually interacting with others face-toface, the worse these problem may get. To make matters worse, the more we glorify and showcase our own successes across the web for all to see, the more insecure and anxious we may be making others who are less accomplished feel.

CAN YOU DEVELOP COMPASSION? YES! AND HERE'S HOW Fortunately, research suggests that it is possible to increase compassion, both toward other people and toward one's self (known as “self-compassion,” which is touched upon more below). Even if you don't physically rely on many people online or even in your community to have your basic needs met, you can still benefit from improving perspective taking and feeling more connected.

We can, in fact, relearn compassion that may have been lost due to factors like experiencing high amounts of stress, gaining financial independence or going through emotional trauma or betrayal. This pays off by teaching us to treat people with more respect, forgiveness and understanding. Here are several ways research suggests that we can improve our compassion: 1. PRAY AND MEDITATION One of the best ways to develop more compassion is to practice meaningful pray and guided meditation that focus on qualities like forgiveness, love and kindness. Loving-kindness meditation reminds us that we all seek and deserve. We deserve no more and no less than anyone else, as we are all driven by an inner desire to avoid suffering and find peace. Using meditation to increase compassion makes it become a habit in daily life, allowing you to establish a healthier way of relating to yourself and others.

Once you're familiar with how loving-kindness meditation works, you can practice on your own without any recordings, videos or books and still reap the benefits of compassion within just 10–20 minutes spent meditating per day. Regularly meditating on compassion will help you understand how your continual selfjudgment may be harming you, holding you back and diminishing satisfaction in your relationships.

2. ALLOWING YOURSELF TO BE MORE VULNERABLE It might seem counterintuitive, but people tend to be drawn to others who are more vulnerable and open about their problems. When you're honest with others about difficulties, it helps build trust and loyalty.

Becoming comfortable with vulnerability may mean taking more risks at work, meeting new people, trying new hobbies where you feel “out of your element” or comfort zone and not putting off difficult conversations. All of these novel situations allow you to recognise that we all have sources of fear and uncertainty and that that's okay.

3. PRACTISING GRATITUDE (TOWARD YOURSELF AND OTHERS) When you become more aware and appreciative of the good things that either you or other people do, it's usually easier to accept the unfavourable things too. Expressing gratitude for your own strengths, accomplishments, relationships, mentors and good intentions makes it easier to cope with harder times and weaknesses.

The same can be said for appreciating others.

Gratitude and compassion play off one another because they both recognise that things or people are usually never black-or-white, but somewhere in the middle and always changing. Studies have found that gratitude and spiritual well-being are related to better mood and sleep, less fatigue and more self-efficacy through decreased stress.

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4. VOLUNTEERING Helping others is one of the surest ways to almost instantly feel happier and more connected. A growing evidence base highlights the supreme importance of compassion in driving high-quality, highvalue care for those who volunteer with or professionally work with people in need, including doctors, nurses and emergency responders.

Volunteering for those in need or who are going through a tough time can make you feel more appreciative, helpful and supportive while giving life a sense of greater purpose.

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clearly, feel less need to deny or run from problems in our lives and start opening up to others in order to feel more supported and accepted.

2. MORE MEANINGFUL, HONEST RELATIONSHIPS Psychologists use the term “downward social comparison” to describe our tendency to see others in a negative light so that we can feel superior by contrast. A lack of self-compassion can lead us to act harmfully toward other people, as a way of protecting our own egos from criticism.

Dr Neff explains that “the desire to feel special is understandable. The problem is that by definition, it's impossible for everyone to be above average.

THE LITTLE-UNDERSTOOD IMPORTANCE OF SELFHow do we cope with this? Not very well. To see ourselves positively COMPASSION It might seem like “being hard on ourselves” would be a good way to we tend to inflate our own egos and put others down so that we can motivate us to change for the better, but research actually suggests the feel good in comparison. But this strategy comes at a price – it holds opposite is true. If we're in a difficult or stressful situation, we rarely us back from reaching our full potential in life”. take the time to step back and recognise how hard it is to be in that While it's very common to look for flaws and shortcomings in others moment. Instead, we may turn toward beating ourselves up, denying as a way to feel better about ourselves, the habit of downward social the problem exists altogether, blaming others or just feeling hopeless.

One of the leading experts on self-compassion, Dr Kristin Neff said comparison actually harms rather than helps us by decreasing that “one of the downsides of living in a culture that stresses the ethic relationship satisfaction. Lack of compassion closes us off to of independence and individual achievement is that if we don't feedback and makes it hard to recognise that sometimes our own continually reach our ideal goals, we feel that we only have ourselves weaknesses are the cause of disagreements. Letting go of the hope for to blame.” Dealing with society's pressure can cause some to develop perfection in ourselves and others helps us view character signs of narcissism when they aren't able to take responsibility for weaknesses as “part of the shared human experience”. This helps us stay flexible and honest, feel more connected to others and able to failures, or to experience depressive bouts during hard times. view our family, friends and coworkers as equally flawed and Practicing self-compassion means letting go of unrealistic vulnerable as we are. expectations or striving for perfection that makes us feel insecure and dissatisfied. Instead it opens the door to real and lasting satisfaction, 3. IMPROVED PRODUCTIVITY AT WORK At work, whether you're the employer or the employee, compassion along with more honesty and appreciation. By giving ourselves can help get the company better results by opening up more honest unconditional kindness and comfort while embracing difficulties and dialogue among coworkers and making more room for coaching, disappointments, we avoid destructive patterns of fear, negativity and relationship-building and feedback exchange. It's been found that isolation. Self-compassion also tends to increase positive mind-states bosses who suspend judgment, anger, or frustration when handling that are beneficial for those around us, such as satisfaction and employees' mistakes and instead take a compassionate and curious optimism, while reducing stress levels. approach are able to make a greater impact overall. It seems that when employees feel less attacked and judged, they are more willing to be THE FIVE BENEFITS OF COMPASSION honest, take responsibility for their actions and correct their mistakes.

1. LESS ANXIETY AND DEPRESSION Insecurity, anxiety and depression are now incredibly common Studies have also found that compassion, recognition and curiosity problems in many industrialised societies. Experts believe that much increase employee loyalty, job satisfaction and trust. Research of this is due to constant comparison and self-judgment, or beating conducted by the Association of Accounting Technicians, for ourselves up when we feel we aren't “winning in the game of life” or example, found that reported feelings of “warmth and positive stacking up well enough against our peers. Because self-judgement relationships” at work have a greater say over employee loyalty than feeds anxiety and depression, while also raising cortisol levels. the size of their pay cheque.

Becoming more compassionate toward yourself can have major Work factors and attitudes that were found to outweigh the protective effects and benefits. importance of one's pay cheque include relationships with colleagues, feeling of self-worth and the nature of the job itself.

Being more self-compassionate means treating yourself with the Because relationships at work were found to be the single most same kindness and care that you would show to a good friend, or even important predictor of job happiness, it makes sense that one-third of a stranger for that matter. And although it might seem like one, this people surveyed had left a high-paying job when they didn't feel isn't a selfish act. Sharon Salzberg is one of the world's experts on understood, appreciated, or supported. loving-kindness meditation; she explains that self-compassion is not the same thing as narcissism, self-centeredness or selfishness.

Salzberg says that “compulsive concern with 'I, me and mine' isn't the same as loving ourselves. Loving ourselves points us to capacities of resilience and understanding within.”

4. LESS ANGER, BLAME AND CONFLICT WITH OTHERS Displaying the opposite of compassion – things like anger, blame, criticism or frustration– tends to weaken relationships, erode loyalty and promote secrecy, mistrust and embarrassment. Maintaining strong relationships has been found to be one of the most protective When we better understand that everyone deals with problems, has factors for health and important aspects for happiness and longevity. certain insecurities and character weaknesses and experiences Therefore it makes sense that ongoing self-criticism, and also setbacks, we realise we aren't alone or even necessarily to blame for judgment toward others, can lead to increased emotional stress and all of our problems. This helps us view our circumstances more many health problems that go along with it.

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relates to improved physical health and immunity because it allows us to view the consequences of our actions accurately, work toward lasting change and handle stress better. Several studies have also found that people with health problems who have a high level of selfcompassion are less depressed about those problems and are more likely to seek a doctor's help than people with low levels of selfcompassion.

When we can be honest with ourselves and others about how we're harming our health, then we can decide what to do in order to improve our habits. For example, if we frequently overeat junk foods, which leads to weight gain, or smoke cigarettes, we may feel too embarrassed to discuss these problems with others or ask for help.

Showing compassion toward ourselves and knowing that everyone has areas they struggle with helps us to address the root causes of these unhealthy habits honestly, take responsibility and seek support.

Self-compassion also helps us stay focused on our goals and resilient during times of setbacks or slip-ups, making us less likely to give up on improving our habits when we fall off course.

The judgments we make of other people not only harm them, they harm us. The more critical we are, the more unsafe we feel our environment is overall. When we feel safer our brain's stress response is lower. Therefore, expressing compassion helps us live with more ease and peace of mind.

5. IMPROVED HEALTH AND IMMUNITY Self-compassion involves wanting health and well-being for yourself, which leads to proactive behaviour that usually betters your situation. One of the most beneficial things about compassion is that it helps resolve internal “distortions,” including rationalising or denying our problems. Feeling safe enough to let our guard down

CONCLUSION In our professional world we are constantly interacting with others. It is important to remember that while our clients may be seeking a treatment outcome they also value a respectful, caring and compassionate interaction with their therapist of practitioner.

Human touch that comes from the heart can achieve a great deal in improving confidence, lowering stress and enhancing wellbeing.

Cultivating compassion for our own wellbeing will make it so much easier to then communicate it to others. In a world of hi-tech, let's not forget to be human.

THE PERSONAL APPROACH IN MARKETING – POSTCARDS APAN have designed a collection of some 14 cards and gift vouchers that are niche, personalised and high-quality. Themed Gift Vouchers include Mother's Day, Just for Him for Father's Day, Christmas Day, Valentine's Day and a generic one that just says With Love. They are attractive and enticing. We also have postcards for you to wish your clients a Happy Birthday, Thank You for new clients and we also have two cards for clients you have not seen for some time. Visit www.apanetwork.com to see the full collection. Purchase 50 for just $40 or 100 for $70 and we will send them to you free of postage and handling. Phone 07 5593 0360 to place your order.

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salonbusiness

Mastering the Principles of SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS GROWTH

by Don Farnden IN THE WORLD of business there are many schools of thought. One of the most credible is the concept presented by Michael E. Gerber in his book The E-Myth. The principles presented in this book are acknowledged by several universities as the most credible business systems .

The unique foundations of The E-Myth principles identify the various mindsets that are needed to run a successful business. On these they then establish the various operational strategies in the correct balance to ensure the business can reach its full potential with greater ease, while allowing the owner to enjoy a full life.

Over the years The E-Myth concepts and methodologies have been expanded and perfected. In fact the Wall Street Journal named The E-Myth the No.1 business book of all time, having sold millions of copies and has now been applied in 145 countries, in 29 languages and is taught in 118 universities.

In simple terms the three mindsets that are needed for a successful business are:

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The Entrepreneur - this is the visionary who sees within their mind's eye the possibility of establishing a business. It really all starts with a dream that you can have your own business and how you envisage this to look. Every new business owner usually starts with a vision of birthing something new.

The Manager - In order for a business to succeed the vision has to be broken down into systems, policies and procedures that will allow the vision to unfold with appropriate structures

that will allow the entrepreneur's concept to unfold and materialise on an operational level.

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The Technician - every business then needs to be able to deliver the services that define that business and this comes down to the technical skills of the technician, operator or practitioner.

Unless a business is positioned to have experts and systems in these three areas it will fail.

Don Farnden is a Master of all things E-Myth and the business of doing business. He's a business owner's dream come true. Don has worked with more than 10,000 people in small businesses across Australia and New Zealand. He is recognised as an accomplished Master Coach and trainer in small business, E-Myth Coach and Michael Gerber "Dreaming Room" Facilitator. His extensive experience is supported by numerous success stories of how his coaching has helped businesses achieve incredible growth.

We are delighted to announce that Don Farnden will be one of our speakers at the upcoming APAN Aesthetics Conference to be held in Adelaide on Sunday May 28th (see pages 14-16). In this article he expands on some of The E-Myth principles.

Everyone who knows small business should know Michael E. Gerber – innovator, entrepreneur, author and global thought leader and the mega-bestselling author of 29 E-Myth books, in The New York Times, Business Week, Inc. Magazine, FORTUNE, Forbes and Wired.

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Mr Gerber is the originator of the small business coaching industry(in 1977) with his founding of The Michael Thomas Corporation, followed by The E-Myth Academy, then E-Myth Worldwide and more recently the Michael E. Gerber Companies.

To Mr Gerber, entrepreneurship is not just a buzz word, but a series of pragmatic actions that he and his team have proven effective over the past 25+ years in over 100,000 organisations worldwide. His Dream: “To transform the state of small business worldwide.”

I first met Michael Gerber in 1995 and subsequently began consulting with small business owners using The E-Myth technologies right up to now. As part of this proven system we provide you, the small business owner with the inspiration, insight, processes and tools to find and express your deepest passions.

The E-Myth is a proven business system. It preceded the dot.com surge and it's nothing to do with e-mail,e-commerce, e-banking or the like. The E-Myth, or Entrepreneurial Myth, is the flawed assumption that most businesses are started by people with tangible business skills when in fact, most are started by “technicians” that love what they do, but often know very little about running a business.

People generally believe that if they are experts at a certain technical skill they will therefore be successful in running a business that does that technical work. Hence, most who are not aware of the various skill sets needed in running a successful business struggle and ultimately fail. The myth that if you are a good technician that automatically means you will also be a successful business persons is very common, but this is not true. This assumption by tens of millions around the world is the reason why many business are 'stuck' in some way or another and they're probably numb to the pain of being 'stuck'!

that include staff hiring and managing, as well as cultural development, marketing and business management.

From there you need to introduce the Technician. Remember when you first worked in a business that someone else owned, you began work as a technician or practitioner. It's likely after years of doing that work you become a Master Technician. If you were really good at what you did, and you probably were very good at it, you were promoted to hold a Manager role in their business – or you changed jobs and you did it in someone else's business.

Now that your entrepreneur has committed you to running your own business, you're about to assume the work of the general Manager, however, from time-to-time,and as required, you'll also continue to slip back in and work as a the Technician doing the work you absolutely love to do – which as we know, is the only work that brings in the money.

You're learning to dance – yes, the Master Technician in you is learning to dance with the lesser experienced Manager and it's going to take learning, lots of practice and bucket loads of patience, and you're doing this without a qualified dance teacher to guide you.

Interesting!

If you did have your own master E-Myth “dance teacher”, one of the first things you'd be introduced to would be the E-Myth Point of View. To hold this point of view is to be alert and open to the steps your previous employers did not know to teach you. This point of view is as important to you right now – as important as the five fingers on your writing hand. So let's have a look and find out the work each of the five Core Principles have in store for us.

FIVE CORE PRINCIPLES OF THE E-MYTH POINT OF VIEW To recap, in the business vernacular, E-Myth refers to the idea that most businesses fail because the founders are technicians, inspired to start a business, without the knowledge of how to start or run a successful business.

There's a specific moment in time in every business owner's life, when they made a commitment to themselves that they were going to start their own business. It's inevitable, if not then, at some time in the future they will somehow begin their own business, doing what it is that they've been doing working for someone else.

Think back. Did you experience this when you first set your mind to achieve your own business? Wasn't it that fleeting moment when the Technician in you become the Entrepreneur in you. We refer to that moment as you having had an entrepreneurial seizure - the moment when you suddenly see a vision of you owning your own business and this prospect excites you and drives you to achieve it. Once you've had an entrepreneurial seizure there's no turning back. In fact, you are so driven that no-one can stop you – not your partner or significant other, not your parents or siblings, not your accountant or other professional advisors, not your friends or co-workers. You are unstoppable.

This Point of View is a highly successful perspective. It's a way of thinking about your business and about your life, and then about the relationship between the two.

This perspective has five core principles, all of which, when taken to heart and practised, will guide you toward making the necessary changes to create a business that truly works and gives you "more life".

This is so simple, and it will make a huge positive difference in your business, not only for you the owner, but also for your employees, suppliers, customers and lenders – the other people directly involved and indirectly associated with your business. It's no good to simply learn it, you have to own it, put it to work in your business and allow it to become your Point of View – make it yours!

Building a successful business requires you, the owner, to take a strategic view, an integrated view of the whole business, as it exists today, and then as it will exist in the future.

So let's expand on this and start to dig in to each of the Five Core Principles. They are simple, and at the same time, they're profound.

So what was the work your entrepreneur did? Oh, that's right – they When you implement them they will help you achieve success with came up with the "idea" for you to start your own business, and then greater ease. Let's have a look at them: they left you to it! That's the work done by the Entrepreneur in you.

1. THE PRINCIPLE OF LIFE Yes done, as brief as it was! Your entrepreneur has gone back to The first principle is about the reason you started your business in the sleep. first place – your business should be a way to get more out of your life.

OK, you now meet the Manager in you. Someone who has to organise the business and the work done in the business. It won't be the Entrepreneur as their work has finished! So, it's now time for the Manager to step up to the plate and do what he assumes to do – to setup and then run this new business. The Manager needs to set up the business structures, systems, protocols and operational procedures

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It's more than just a job, or it should be. In order to do the things that give you the life you want, you have to create a business within which you can achieve the satisfaction and sense of fulfilment you want.

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In order to create a business to serve your life, you first must discover your aim – your primary purpose at its core. This is the source of your

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systems do the work and the people operate the systems – putting your business forward as a systems dependent business rather than a people dependent business.

Systemic thinking will set you free. Systemic thinking is second nature to the E-Myth Leader.

With no systems in place, your business depends on you and a few expert people who run things for you. If they disappear your business is thrown into chaos. However, if you have the right systems in place, the systems run the business and nearly anyone appropriately skilled can run the systems. energy, your commitment and your personal vision. Life is the first principle, because more than anything else it's all about life!

2. LAW OF OBJECTIVISATION Michael Gerber said "If you can see your business as separate from you – as a product of you – you will be able to reinvent it. And once you can do that, anything is possible! And that is what the Law of Objectivisation is all about."

Objectivisation is about you envisioning the object. It is when you place yourself outside of your creation, or more accurately, it's when you place your creation outside of you.

When you're truly utilising the Law of Objectivisation you will be able to see clearly that your business isn't you, your career isn't you, and even – this is a tough one – your life isn't you. Rather, your life – and everything in it are a result of what you do, not who you are.

If you think of your business, your life and your relationships in this manner, then success will begin to happen for you.

It's about taking a step outside of your business and looking at it objectively. Looking at it as being completely separate from you – as being a piece of raw clay that you, the creator, can shape into anything you want it to be! Yes, you the creator need to go to work on your business as well as in it.

3. WORKING ON IT, NOT JUST IN IT And that leads us directly into the third principle of working on your business, and not just in it.

The fatal assumption is – most businesses are started by people who understand the technical work of their business, and therefore think that they understand the business that does the technical work. They don't. The technical work of a business and the business that does that technical work are two different things.

The business as a whole is the product, not the things or the services that the business produces. If you're doing the technical work of the business you don't really have a business, you have a job.

The idea is to work ON your business, not just work IN it, and the basic approach is to imagine you're creating a franchise prototype, and you're creating the model for 10,000 more just like your first one.

You may or may not ever want to franchise – that's not the point – it's that you're looking at your business as if you were going to franchise it.

Create a business that will run all by itself, without you, then two things will happen. You will be focused on creating a business, not just cranking out a product or service; and you'll have the freedom to work IN the business, or to be completely free of it. Your choice.

4. PRINCIPLE OF SYSTEMISATION Your business isn't simply a group of people doing work – it is, or it should be, a business system that is operated by your people. The

If you have the right systems in place, your key employees can suddenly quit and you could replace them easily with little or no ill effect on your business. If performance isn't up to standard, rather than blame your employees and argue with them, you simply adjust the system. If problems or opportunities arrive you respond by creating new and appropriate systems or adjust existing systems.

With the right systems in place you can work every day in your business, or not – that's your choice because it's your system that is really running your business.

Systemisation is the real secret behind building a business that works for you, rather than against you. Freedom!

5. PRINCIPLE OF BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Building a business that works for you is another way of saying business development. It's a continuous cycle of innovation, quantification and orchestration, where innovation is the creation of systems, or the improvement of existing systems. Quantification is putting numbers to the impact made by business systems, and tracking their performance over time. And orchestration is the elimination of discretion or choice in your business systems – doing it the way it's supposed to be done, predictably every time – until innovation improves it.

The point is that business development never ends – it's the secret to realising your vision. It's the methodology for working ON your business rather than IN it. It's the way you use your business to get more life.

IN CONCLUSION When you take these principles to heart and practise them every day, they will guide you towards achieving a new level of success and happiness in your business and in your life. They are the core of the work you do in building a successful business.

As already mentioned, I will be speaking at the APAN Aesthetics Conference May 28th in Adelaide and I would love to meet you at this event. This is where I'll expand further on these and many more associated points, which will assist you in making the right choices for your business, the people in your business, and you and your family.

ABOUT DON FARNDEN Don Farnden is a Master of all things E-Myth, Gerber and the business of doing business. He is a Practice Owner's Dream come true.

To chat with Don, call him at Boost Business Results on 1300 720123 or direct on 0418 823 719. Or go to DreamingRoom.com.au/APAN20170 5 (or bit.ly/APAN201705) to learn more about how Don can help you.

Get More Life!

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APAN launches three more NATIONAL AESTHETICS CONFERENCES in 2017

You give to others - let us give back to you The APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE PROGRAMS are not just educational.

They offer you valuable tools to benchmark and assess your current commercial knowledge and understanding of new technologies, industry advanced and business strategies against non-biased, research and scientifically-validated information.

You will gain powerful tools to determine the most credible pathway for your professional and business success.

WHY YOU SHOULD ATTEND: ! Unique perspective on new advances ! Regulatory changes and how to best prepare for them ! Scientific advances ! New partnerships to help your business grow ! Unbiased, independent education information ! Business strategies ! Global trends

ADELAIDE MAY 28 BRISBANE JULY 30 MELBOURNE SEPTEMBER 24 Mark these dates in your diary.

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Gain inspiration and become invigorated to step up your professional and business services.

Knowledge is power | Gain the winning edge | Be part of a dynamic community of practice.

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GREAT NETWORKING | EDUCATION | LEADING INDUSTRY STRATEGIES | REGULATION UPDATES | CONSUMER TRENDS

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strategicalliances

NUTRITIONAL AND NATUROPATHIC PROGRAMS

– The new frontier in achieving leading skin treatment outcomes and beyond

by Miesha Marie DipBTh, Dip Naturopathy CONSTANTLY advancing and evolving with amazing new technology tools, cutting-edge skincare formulations and treatment protocols, the aesthetics industry is expanding its borders with new promises of better and more impressive treatment outcomes. And it doesn't stop there, entering the salon and clinic arena is the new era of healthcare practitioner collaboration, offering effective, streamline professional services delivered side-by-side that bring much needed support for not just enhanced skin treatment results, but also improved energy levels and overall wellbeing to constantly demanding consumers.

Miesha Maria holds dual qualifications in both beauty therapy and naturopathy with extensive practice and business expertise in both these areas, as well as in business operations of both these professions. We are delighted to introduce Miesha as one of our educational speakers at this year's APAN Aesthetics Conference in Brisbane on the 30 July. Miesha will present a compelling lecture on How Complementary Health Collaboration can Boost your Bottom Line.

In this article she addresses what salons and clinics can expect to gain from such alliances, both for the benefit of their clients as well as improve new client acquisition and take their business growth to the next level.

There’s a new wave sweeping the aesthetics industry. Businesses that specialise in skin and age management are reporting that clients are increasingly seeking more comprehensive treatment perspectives that align with their personal health philosophies, and go beyond that of traditional allopathic treatment. Consumers, it seems, are becoming less satisfied with conventional stand-alone treatments; they’re now expecting more.

Health and Wellness is a growing industry estimated in Australia at $1.3 billion annually. A consumer attitudinal shift has seen compounding growth in this sector, the direct result of which has been the emergence of a culture of ‘health’– people who are adopting disciplined lifestyles, regardless of monetary cost, in order to pursue their own goal of maximising their physical health and attractiveness.

This is not a trend as such, but a conscious movement towards living a cleaner, healthier life. This is causing a seismic shift in how the industry is now defined, challenging businesses to re-think what changes they need to make to retain their current clients, attract new ones and continue to be relevant with their services.

The fact is, clients are already supplementing their aesthetic treatments with alternative health strategies. The concern arises when the information being sourced does not come from a qualified health professional, one with expertise in their field, but from an unqualified

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source such as a search engine and/or social media. In these instances, there’s no way to be sure of the validity and credibility of the content: the internet provides a plethora of information for the unsuspecting person, regardless of whether said information is accurate and/or safe.

The solution? Provide clients with accurate and efficacious information, in the form of strategic and collaborative aesthetic programs, underscored with naturopathic and nutritional principles.

This would bridge any gap between what your business is currently able to offer your client, and what your client may already be pursuing themselves or seeking elsewhere.

Developing customised ‘health and lifestyle’ programs for your aesthetic business not only addresses the demand for supplementary health strategies, it also provides the client with an additional avenue of clinical treatment outcome that goes beyond just their skin to support energy levels, minimise stress and even inflammation in the body that if left unchecked, can contribute to disease.

exact method of treatment, will depend upon the nature of the ‘disease’ in question, the clients level of commitment, both time-wise and monetary, and the outcomes the client expects to arrive at. It’s important to continually assess and reevaluate progress throughout the duration of the program, with regards to ensuring the client is responding to treatment as expected.

By developing tailored aesthetic programs, that specifically target the underlying cause of the skin abnormality, there’s scope to incorporate pre, mid and post-treatment objectives at strategic points, within the treatment cycle.

WHY CONSIDER STRUCTURING COLLABORATIVE HEALTH PROGRAMS WITH THE CLIENT IN MIND Pre-treatment protocols have a duel function: they’re useful in preparing skin for topical aesthetic procedures, e.g. a two-week ‘Skin Detox’ pre-program designed to reduce oxidative stress on the skin and for ameliorating accessory health concerns, particularly where the primary treatment is expected to be long-term and/or invasive.

HOW INCORPORATING COMPLEMENTARY HEALTH Post-treatment strategies are geared towards ensuring the client has a STRATEGIES WILL BENEFIT YOUR TREATMENT continued basis of support, particularly after the ‘heavy lifting’ portion of the program is complete. With some aesthetic treatments, OUTCOMES As the aesthetics industry advances with promises of delivering more noteworthy and long-lasting skin improvement, the need to address root causes of problem skin becomes imperative. Many therapists are finding they don’t have the knowledge, or expertise to fully address these underlying concerns as they relate to systemic issues in the body and not just the skin. For any business wishing to meet this short-fall, they must look beyond simply educating pre-existing staff, and instead look to the emergence of complementary health in aesthetics; a practical solution that offers the opportunity for the development of collaborative relationships and/or partnerships, with those in the complementary health sector.

Current aesthetic treatment strategies are determined by the availability of technology and equipment in practice, coupled with cosmetic product recommendations (e.g. prescriptive cosmeceuticals) and generalised suggestions for diet and/or lifestyle changes. There’s an obvious gap in this chain of treatment and by utilising the expertise of a qualified natural health practitioner, aesthetic businesses can hope to achieve greater outcomes for their patients, particularly with difficult skin complaints and disorders that can often prove complicated and more stubborn to successfully treat.

clinical outcomes can take time to resolve e.g. collagen induction therapy. Therefore there’s much we can do, in support of the eventual resolution such as minimising any long-term post treatment inflammation with nutritional applications and targeted supplementation.

Are there any options in incorporating a collaborative health program for your business? Indeed there are. I usually recommend four alternate categories: 1. TAILORED PROGRAMS: Specific to the individual client, these involve pre-treatment consultation, evaluation, and testing, which establish baseline measurements and determine the best course of treatment. In counsel with the aesthetic practitioner, an action plan is decided upon for the duration of the program, which would incorporate pre and post program strategies, dietary, lifestyle and supplementation recommendations.

In this collaborative aesthetic approach, a naturopath or nutritional health expert has a lot to offer. Consultation objectives are aimed at resolving the primary health concern (in this instance the primary aesthetic concern), and a comprehensive health assessment is performed, to determine the best course of treatment.

Strategies can be implemented by ‘BandAid’ approaches (short-term prioritisation to ameliorate the clients most pressing health issue -the ‘reason for initiating treatment’), or via the ‘onion’ strategy paring back of layers, which typically involves more complex over-arching systemic issues – that resolve over a greater length of time. Both strategies can also be used complementary to each other. The

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CHOOSING THE RIGHT PROGRAM Each program type is unique in that it addresses very different needs. As therapists it is important that we become adept at listening so that we may ask the questions that elicit the appropriate responses. This helps to identify the best approach in establishing the client’s program. For example, for many clients a sense of ownership and responsibility are equally important in the treatment process; these people want to be active participants throughout the duration of the treatment program. For other clients, they simply need permission to slow-down or stop and therefore crave the structure of a tailored program.

Programs can be designed within a dedicated time-frame for example, a group program delivered over a six-week period, or where more discretion is required compensating for the unpredictable nature of skin.

IMPLEMENTATION OF COLLABORATIVE PROGRAMS 2. TARGETED PROGRAMS: Address a specific disease/disorder or skin type rather than the individual. These programs have very definite conventions that have proven efficacies in resolving the condition. More ridged in structure, there’s typically a dedicated menu of treatment, with little deviation. If consultation unearthed any anomaly, this would be taken into consideration.

3. GROUP PROGRAMS: Designed with a larger audience in mind, content is less individualised and more generalised, with a broader topical overview (e.g. ‘Summer Skin Detox’). These programs are best suited to clients less inclined to want to work one-on-one, but who still want the added benefit of working with a qualified professional. These types of programs are more favoured throughout specific times of year and can be recommended as an introductory pathway for new clients, those with financial constraints, or those who may not be confident in their ability to commit to a more regimented program. White-labelled programs fall under this subtype – pre-fabricated programs that contain content designed for easy alteration, to suit the company’s brand agenda. Used strategically, these are a great way to connect with potential clients who, for varying reasons, don’t have the ability to seek in-house treatment.

They’re used very effectively when establishing an online cohort of clients (typically in the form of an online membership program), which is a great way to supplement your business, with a guaranteed recurring income.

4. BRANDED PROGRAMS: These programs take into considerations specific company philosophy and incorporate elements that are unique to your business; your ‘selling point’. Again, these programs are designed for the broader market, with the idea being they’re identifiers very specific to your business (e.g. ‘Pete Evans - Paleo Diet’). Content couldn’t easily be replicated by another, which makes these programs a unique service proposition for your business. They are a wonderful way to promote the new addition to your services educating new and current clients on the benefits of your added services.

To determine what program will best suit you, you will need to evaluate what are your business objectives? It’s important that consideration is given here as this will dictate how you plan to implement this new service offering into your business. Programs should be designed with your client base in mind, and due consideration should be given to marketing these services as a package. A client is more likely to engage with this collaborative concept if they’re made aware of the benefits to their treatment outcomes.

If you’re unsure of the suitability, or viability, of introducing a complementary health service aimed to your business, an unobtrusive way of discerning client interest is to filter this narrative into pre-existing business dialogue.

Strategies could include:

! ! !

Survey – incorporate questions in the patient form, a reception desk survey, or an email newsletter.

Business literature – introduce the topic via clinic pamphlets, wall decals, or posters.

Open-ended questioning – ask your clients whether they’ve any interest, either in person, through email, or via social media pages.

Hosting an information night within your business, or at another venue is another great way of introducing the idea of collaborative service programs to pre-existing and potential clients alike. These sessions (e.g. a monthly workshop) can encompass a range of varying topics and should be used to familiarise clients with the benefits of complementary health for the benefit of their skin and beyond. This will allow for open engagement and for sharing of knowledge, without anyone feeling they’re necessarily being coerced into a formal commitment. However, it is the perfect environment to educate your clients on the benefits of additional wellness strategies that can help minimise stress, fatigue, improve energy levels and even assist with weight management.

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ADDITIONAL BENEFITS TO YOUR BUSINESS Clients will determine the value of the treatment based on their level of improvement that the consultation will offer. This alone will impact whether they decide to remain with the program. What we’re aiming for with this collaborative approach is to provide the client/patient with better clinical outcomes. We want to achieve better results, more quickly, much more comprehensively and longerlasting with additional health benefits.

As such, this can only strengthen client relationships with your business, resulting in:

! ! ! ! !

Increased client loyalty Improved customer satisfaction (with resolution of their skin concern/s) Point-of-difference (ahead of your competitors) Reputation (word-of-mouth) Increased revenue

Additionally, providing these additional complementary health services will not only support your reputation to achieve superior treatment results, but also allow you to increase your business's bottom line.

FORMALISING A COLLABORATIVE RELATIONSHIP There are several ways a business could negotiate this:

! ! ! !

Contracting of services Commission-based sales agreement Renting or leasing available space Employment with a wage or salary

Ease into the relationship by adopting distinct guidelines for your business and decide upon an agreed probationary period, which should be worked into any contract or agreement.

THE USE OF SUPPLEMENTS AND OTHER RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS When recommending a physical product to a client, there’s a broad array of complementary health products (e.g. supplements), available. These products may be categorised as:

!

Over-the-counter – examples of which are found in supermarkets, pharmacies, or health food stores; goods for general sale.

!

Practitioner prescribed – those that are only made available to qualified practitioners (and always only after a person applies with the company of manufacture and who meet the definition of a practitioner), which contain more concentrated levels of active ingredients, and therefore must be used with more caution, but with a targeted approach.

In Australia, every State has its own individual regulatory requirements, and for companies manufacturing and/or importing natural therapy goods into Australia, the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) is responsible for monitoring the safety and standards of these goods. This means that any health product or supplement available for sale in Australia (depending upon their definition of use) must comply with TGA standards.

Collaboration with complementary healthcare professionals is the new frontier of the aesthetics industry. It would behoove any business to do due diligence and explore the idea of capitalising from the juggernaut that is the health and wellness movement. Ultimately, the aim of any business is growth; to increase client numbers, capital and revenue, while boosting reputation through successful treatment outcomes that are meeting with today's consumer expectations.

What better way to do this than to service your client, by providing a collaborative alliance that has the potential to benefit them in such a significant way.

THE SCIENCE AND EFFICACY OF ALTERNATIVE HEALTH About Miesha Marie THERAPIES Don’t be fooled by nay sayers who decry that complementary health is quackery; Naturopaths and nutritional health professionals are highly qualified and have extensive training with knowledge underpinned by nutrition, clinical medicine, pathophysiology and dietetics. In the last 10-years especially, the complementary health industry has liaised extensively with government to ensure that content developed in accordance with nationally recognised training (NRT) packages, meets a higher scientific standard. This reflects regulatory bodies and consumer expectation. Registered training organisations (RTOs) are now, more than ever providing students with training, with an overtly scientific foundation.

As an aside, to secure insurance (e.g.professional indemnity) and attain a provider number for health rebates, every natural therapy practitioner must be registered with a recognised industry association. As it is with APAN with their ARAP and CTARP Registration requirements with evidence of a strict qualifications criteria where practitioners must meet continuing education points (CEP) requirements, in order to maintain their annual registration.

Entering the beauty industry in 1996 she ran her own beauty salon until 2006. Having also studied and completed a Diploma in Naturopathy she furthered her clinical experience working with a busy health food store. In 2015 she relocated and began clinical work at a natural therapy centre specialising in skin conditions. At that time she continued her studies in cosmetic chemistry and cosmetic formulations. Today, Miesha is a passionate advocate of complementary health collaboration, through education and training, specifically with regards to digital business and client program development. She is in the process of launching her complementary health and aesthetics development and training business and can be contacted at her email comphealthcollaborative@gmail.com or via her blog www.thesourceofbeauty.com.

To hear Miesha attend APAN’s Brisbane Conference on July 30.

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While it’s fair to say that there are elements of ‘alternative medicine’ that have not yet stood up to the scrutiny of scientific rigor, natural health practitioners earn their qualifications training with a syllabus heavily weighted in favour of sciencebased subjects. Further, research and development is finally beginning to catch up with ‘anecdotal evidence’, providing sound scientific proof for the efficacy of many products and protocols.

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businessprofile

HOW UPGRADING YOUR QUALIFICATION CAN SECURE YOUR FUTURE THESE days it seems like anyone with a laser or IPL machine can call themselves a therapist and perform procedures, on unsuspecting clients regardless of their knowledge gaps. So how do you upgrade your skills and attain professional qualifications that position you ahead of the rest and guarantee your clients can relax and enjoy safe, high quality, results-driven treatments?

training in Intense Pulsed Light for Hair Reduction and Skin Rejuvenation and Tattoo Removal.

Therapists who work in the industry and have extensive skills and knowledge of laser and IPL technology and treatments are perfectly suited to apply for recognition of prior learning (RPL). Gaining a qualification through RPL saves you time and money and sets the Sydney Beauty & Dermal Institute (SBDI) has been dedicated to professional standards required of the industry and expected by training the highest professional standards of laser and IPL clients. treatments, dermal and beauty therapy for 30 years. As a Registered Training Organisation (RTO) and internationally registered with the KEEPING CURRENT IN INDUSTRY International Therapy Examination Council (ITEC), we are known in The Hairdressing and Beauty training package is constantly being the industry as a institute which sets the benchmark in quality upgraded to ensure qualifications such as the Diploma of Beauty standards and have a passion for producing highly qualified beauty Therapy meets the needs of the beauty industry and graduates gain the necessary employability skills. If you're current Diploma of Beauty professionals.

Therapy has a code of WRB or SIB you may want to consider Combining a variety of updated treatment options within any salon or upgrading your qualification to the latest and current qualification clinic ensures optimum benefits, both for the client as well as for the SHB50115 Diploma of Beauty Therapy therefore ensuring you stay business. SBDI offers post-graduate qualifications to cover what's current in the industry. hot right now in the industry, including the latest in laser and IPL treatments for hair reduction and skin rejuvenation, tattoo removal, At SBDI, we work closely with all of our students to guarantee microdermabrasion, skin needling, cosmetic tattooing and success. We provide a variety of delivery modes and training sessions including small groups, one-on-one training, online, work placement electrolysis, to name a few. and distance education. When you enrol into Recognition of Prior Although a Diploma in Beauty Therapy or Certificate IV in Beauty Learning (RPL) or undertake a full course your trainer and assessor Therapy is preferred for participants of our post-graduate courses, it will support you every step of the way. is possible for participants without a beauty therapy, or medical background to take part by completing some additional prerequisite FLEXIBILITY SBDI offers continuous enrolment throughout the year (see units. commencement dates on our website). This offers convenience and flexibility for all of our prospective students to fit in with your busy CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT As an approved delegate of the Australian Skills Quality Authority lifestyles. Another benefit to the SBDI flexible learning mode, is that (ASQA), SBDI provides all of its students with industry specific all our students are at different levels. This gives more experienced training and realistic hands-on practical scenarios, delivered by their students the chance to help new students and brush up on their trainers and assessors with many years of industry knowledge and existing skills and techniques. Work placement a valuable component experience. Their training is continually evolving to accommodate to each course enabling all students to gain experience in a real life industry requirements and individual learning needs. salon environment preparing them for work and becoming industry ready.

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ARE YOU READY FOR IPL AN LASER LEGISLATION?

Ilse Taumberger, principal of SBDI, has developed and registered with ASQA the only course in Australia that allows therapists to gain a qualification in NAT10038 Graduate Certificate in Cosmetic Laser and Light Therapies. Ilse encourages all therapists who work in a Laser and IPL clinic to upgrade their skills and access accredited

If updating your qualifications and staying current in the beauty industry sounds appealing, visit the Sydney Beauty and Dermal Institute website www.sbdi.com.au and complete a contact form or call us on 02 9326 2211.

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bookreview

GOOD + WELL

25 World Experts share their secrets to Wellbeing

Book Profile by Tina Viney GILLIAN Fish is the founder and director of communications company The 6am Agency (previously Brand New Solutions) and now the author of Good + Well – 25 World Experts share their Secrets to Wellbeing.

Gill is probably one of the hardest working professional individuals I have ever met. In the 10 years that I have known her since the launch of her company, she has grown from strength-tostrength having rebranded and grown several credible organisations and companies to greater prominence through her incredible expertise and her commitment to excellence.

Gill is also on the Advisory Board of APAN and I am delighted to also call her a highly respected and trusted friend.

Over recent years her company has worked with several worldleading organisations and companies in the area of skincare, wellness and health. Constantly in touch with some of the world's most prominent leaders in scientific research has allowed her to glean from their amazing ground-breaking discoveries and be inspired by their incredible knowledge. Wishing to share some of the highlights of these brilliant liaisons led her to publish her first book - GOOD + WELL - 25 World Experts share their Secrets to Wellbeing, an amazing collection of wisdom and recommendations as presented by world leaders in their field of research.

WHY YOU SHOULD ADD THIS BOOK TO YOUR LIBRARY? In the words of Dr Joanna McMillan, "Gone are the days where we got sick and expected the doctor to heal us. Today we have the power and knowledge to be far more proactive about our health.

This is what lifestyle medicine is all about. While we can't prevent every ailments and serious disease can strike the healthiest person, there is much we can do to dramatically reduce our risk, while at the same time boosting our vitality to allow us to get the most out of life. This inspiring collection of interviews with health experts in diverse fields from neuroscience to holistic practitioners takes us on a trip through the thoughts, theories and science of what we currently know. It makes for a fantastic read.”

Beautifully presented and easy to read, GOOD + WELL – 25 World Experts share their Secrets to Wellbeing will inspire and motivate you with great tips on how to take control of your health and introduce simple, health-inducing strategies to improve your quality of life. It's the kind of book that you will not only enjoy reading, but also will find inspiring enough to pick and re-read on a regular basis. This is a highly recommended read.

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GOOD + WELL – 25 World Experts share their Secrets to Wellbeing will be available through bookstores nationwide, on Amazon, for Kindle, and other e-book sellers.

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

Think MBC AND THink AESTHETICS SPONSORING COSMETIC TATTOOIST OF THE YEAR AT ABIA AWARDS IMPROVING standards in the cosmetic tattoo industry is a key focus for THink Aesthetics, including their wholesale distribution arm, THink MBC. Think Aesthetics runs a training school led by master cosmetic tattooist and trainer, Janice Trainer. Janice is CTARP accredited by APAN (Cosmetic Tattoo APAN Registered Practitioner) and recognises the importance of driving improvement in the standard of training.

“There are so many technicians that have tried different classes and are still struggling with confidence in their work", Janice said.

Janice went on to say that it's a real concern when technicians call you for help and have been reduced to tears, because of having insufficient training to address problems with their procedures.

"We need to work closely with APAN on a range initiatives to define appropriate training standards and requirements as the industry in fast-evolving and we can no longer move forward without recognised, uniform standards of competency,” Janice stressed.

As the largest supplier of cosmetic tattoo products and equipment in Australia, THink MBC at least has direct control over what they supply.

THink MBC is the sole Australian distributor for many of the best known and trusted brands in the business, including Nouveau Contour, Karen Betts (KB Pro) and Biotouch.

According to CEO Robert McGowan one of the challenges is keeping fake equipment and pigments out of the Australian market. It's a continuous challenge. Robert went on to say that if it is surprisingly cheap, it is probably a fake.

"We have people who call us because they have been let down by a machine that is either broken, or not performing and they can't get any supplier support. A quick check reveals the machine is as fake as the label. With fake pigments the problem is less obvious, however, the consequences of using an unknown substance is a real concern,” Robert said.

“We want to work with APAN and the industry as a whole in raising the bar. One way we can improve standards is to help recognise outstanding achievement in the cosmetic tattoo industry and this year we are sponsoring the “Cosmetic Tattooist of the Year” award introduced this year through the Australian Beauty Industry Awards (ABIA)”.

To contact THink MBC Cosmetic Tattoo visit www.mbccosmetictattoo.com.au

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UV DAMAGE BEYOND THE SURFACE – What The UV Rating Really Means

For Your Skin

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AS we know, the UV Index is a scale used to describe the intensity of ultraviolet radiation that penetrates the atmosphere and reaches the earth's surface. Developed in Canada in the early 1980s, the levels range from 1 or low exposure to 11+, which is considered extreme.

Researchers in Australia state that unprotected skin exposed to extreme UV conditions would burn within minutes.

Professor Michael Kimlin from the University of the Sunshine Coast and the Cancer Council Queensland said the Queensland data was unique."There's not too many places in the world that get much higher than 12, but unfortunately for us here in Queensland we max out at that very quickly, most times of the year," he said.

Professor Kimlin said the danger with ultraviolet radiation was that it was not felt on the skin by heat or discomfort at the time.

It was only evident afterwards in the form of sunburn, but he said a growing area of research was focusing on cases where unprotected skin was exposed to the sun without obvious sunburn. "This is when people go out in the sun, get sun exposure, but don't get sunburnt, what does that mean for their skin cancer risk?" he said.

"What we do know is that every little bit of UV exposure counts."

No sunburn? Don't be fooled Professor Kimlin said that although the sunburn may not be evident that day or the following day, there was activity going on beneath the skin's surface.

"Underneath the skin the UV is interacting with our DNA causing changes and damage, that our body is rapidly trying to repair," he said.

“If we actually get a lot of what we call sub-sunburn exposures, we do believe that it actually increases your risk quite substantially of melanoma."

The Cancer Council Queensland's spokeswoman Katie Clift said more than 3,600 Queenslanders were diagnosed with melanoma each year, while more than 350,000 non-melanoma skin cancers were treated annually.

About 2,100 men were diagnosed with melanoma annually, compared to 1,500 women.

"The majority of skin cancers are caused by overexposure to UV radiation. Damage can occur in as little as 10 to 15 minutes during peak UV periods," she said.

Interestingly, Professor Kimlin said the comparative location that Queensland is from the equator means it would experience about 10 per cent less UV, just because of the tilt of the earth's axis, and also ozone circulation, so ozone does have a little bit to play".

If you want to know which State is at the highest risk of sunburn and skin cancers take a look at the chart below that measures the UV index on the 20th February this year.

As Professor Kimlin confirmed, even if there is no evidence of sunburn, underneath the skin the UV is interacting with our DNA causing changes and ultimately damage that can contribute to accelerated ageing. For this reason sunscreen should be part of our daily skincare routine as Australia continues to lead the way in maximum UVR levels.

UV-Index for 20 February 2017 Site

UV-Index

Index Time*

UV Model

Model Time**

Latitude

Longitude

Adelaide

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13:30

10

13:20

34.9S

138.6E

Alice Springs

12

12:50

12

12:40

23.7S

133.9E

Brisbane

11

11:50

12

12:00

27.5S

153.0E

Canberra

9

13:20

10

13:15

35.3S

149.1E

Darwin

14

13:20

14

13:00

12.4S

130.9E

Kingston

5

14:00

8

13:20

43.0S

147.3E

Melbourne

8

14:50

9

13:30

37.7S

145.1E

Newcastle

10

13:00

10

13:00

32.9S

151.7E

Sydney

10

13:10

10

13:00

34.0S

151.1E

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Townsville

14

12:50

13

12:20

19.3S

146.8E 25

* Index Time indicates the time that the maximum UVR level occurred for the day. ** Model Time indicates the time of the maximum forecast UVR level for the day (solar noon).

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NON-SURGICAL SYMPOSIUM – 22-25 June Gold Cost Convention Centre THE Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (ASAPS), Cosmetic Physicians College of Australasia (CPCA), the Australasian Society of Cosmetic Dermatologists (ASCD), and the New Zealand Society of Cosmetic Medicine (NZSCM)are delighted to announce the leading event for non-surgical aesthetics in Australasia – The 2017 Non-Surgical Symposium.

skincare as well as the development in laser/light devices and nonsurgical body contouring tools to name a few.

Mark Magusson ASAPS Chairman of Education and Programme Convenor, ASAPS Vice President said, “2017 sees the most dynamic Symposium to date, with our global, leading experts coming together to deliver an interactive, informative and once-inFrom 22 to the 25 June you have the opportunity to join globally a-lifetime experience on state of the art concepts, tools and new renowned plastic surgeons, cosmetic doctors, dermatologists, practice in this arena.” ophthalmologists, nurse aestheticians and dermal therapists as they review the latest in 'appearance medicine' from injectables, to For further details visit www.nonsurgical.org.au

COCONUT WATER

COMPANY TO DEVELOP SKINCARE PRODUCTS THE refreshing taste of Vita Coco coconut water is becoming so popular that stores such as Woolworths and Coles are struggling to keep up with the demand.

While the brand also produces coconut oil manufacturers are fast picking up on new research that confirms the benefit of coconut oil not just for inner health, but also for healthy skin and hair.

As a result Vito Coco will soon launching coconut milk as a plant-based non-dairy alternative which the company believes will also become a best seller.

However, they are not stopping there. The brands impending expansion will likely to see the addition of skincare, haircare and personal care product formulated and packaged expressly for the beauty aisle. In fact, Vita Coco has well-established distribution deals with food and health stores as well as mass market retailers and is expected to market its cosmetic/personal care products through those same channels.

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd

GOOSEBUMPS MAY HOLD KEY FOR SKIN CANCER, BALDNESS AND BURNS TREATMENT IT has long been thought that goosebumps were just evolutionary residue from the caveman era of fight or flight responses or trying to beat the cold. But new research shows that we may have been underestimating the role of the humble goosebump.

Professor Rod Sinclair, dermatologist at the University of Melbourne, explained he had been "following a hunch" that goosebumps were not just an evolutionary by-product.

It turns out that Professor Sinclair's hunch may have been on track, as his new research shows the "goosebump muscle" could hold the key for skin cancer, baldness and burns treatment.

April 2-3

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Dallas Arlington Convention Center Arlington, Texas T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com

April 6-8

AMWC 2017 - 15th Aesthetic & Antiaging Medicine World Congress Grimaldi Forum 10, av. Princesse Grace 98001 Principauté de Monaco T: +33 01 56837800 F: + 33 01 56837805 Email: registration@euromedicom.com

April 19-27

Beauty Eurasia Istanbul Expo Center Istanbul, Turkey T: +90 212 6033333 F: + 90 212 6033333 E-Mail: info@beautyeurasia.com

May 28

APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE – ADELAIDE T: 07 5593 0360 E-Mail: info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

April 30-May 1

Esthetique SPA International Downtown Metro Convention Centre Toronto, Canada T: + 886 772 7469 Email: info@spa-show.com

May 21-22

The International Congress of Esthetics and Spa, Pennsylvania Convention Center 1101 Arch St Philadelphia, PA T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com

May 21-22

Professional Beauty Greyville Convention Centre Durban, Ireland T: 011 781 5970 Email: info@probeauty.co.za

"As we do more research we find that nothing is for nothing. It's almost as though there's a grand design to the body even for the purpose of goosbumps".

How do goosebumps actually work?

Professor Sinclair said humans had roughly two million hairs over their bodies, and on the side wall of every one of those hairs is a muscle — the goosebump muscle known as the arrector pili.

"In mammals that have long hair from head to toe, that muscle is very important because when it contracts it causes the hair to stand on end," he said.

For a mammal covered in hair this can help to protect against the cold and make the mammal look bigger. However for humans, with far less hair, it is a fairly ineffectual response to the cold or for defence.

"Because we aren't covered in hair, the times when we notice goosebumps is when we're cold or when we are under stress, excited or threatened," Professor Sinclair said.

The significance of the goosebump muscle

May 23-25

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What Professor Sinclair and his team have recently discovered about the goosebump muscle is the vital function it performs in maintaining hair follicle growth and growth of skin. It has long

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been understood that in order for healing and cell regeneration to occur a stem cell niche is required. Professor When it comes to baldness, a billion-dollar industry Sinclair has discovered that the goosebump muscle scrambling to find a cure, it turns out that in time the everimportant stem cell muscle is damaged beyond repair. maintains this vital stem cell niche.

"Where the goosebump muscle attaches to the side of the "What we found was that when we go bald the stem cell hair follicle, this creates a stem cell niche and if you don't niche was not damaged and the early stages of baldness are reversible," he said. have the muscle then you don't have the stem cell.�

What could this mean for skin cancer, baldness and "In the late stages of baldness the muscle starts to turn to fat, and once it turns to fat there's no way of reversing it." burns?

He said the discovery of the goosebump muscle and how it Professor Sinclair said the key could be in discovering why related to stem cells could help to stop the growth of skin the goosebump muscle was being destroyed. cancer cells.

For burns victims, he said he believed that if hair was "Knowing where the stem cells are and what maintains the transplanted into the burns scar it would help to regenerate stem cells gives us some insight as to how we might target the goosebump muscle. That will give you more stem cell the skin to protect against the development of skin cancers. populations into the burns scar and that will make those scars "By understanding what cells are the stem cells, where they more robust. are located and how they might actually be exchanged or R e f e r e n c e : h t t p : / / w w w. a b c . n e t . a u / n e w s / 2 0 1 7 - 0 1 replenished, might give us insight about making vaccines 06/goosebumps-may-hold-key-for-skin-cancer-baldnessagainst skin cancers." burns-treatment/8164076

may also lead to a greater understanding of how other organs in the body age, which could pave the way for drug developments in a number of age-related diseases, including cancer.

BREAKTHROUGH – KEY ENZYME DISCOVERY OFFERS A PATHWAY FOR NEW ANTI-AGEING TREATMENTS FOR the first time, scientists at Newcastle University, UK, have identified that the activity of a key metabolic enzyme found in the batteries of human skin cells declines with age.

A study, published online in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, has found that the activity of mitochondrial complex II significantly decreases in older skin. This discovery brings experts a step closer to developing powerful anti-ageing treatments and cosmetic products which may be tailored to counteract the decline in the enzyme's activity levels. Findings

Mark Birch-Machin, Professor of Molecular Dermatology at Newcastle University, led the pioneering study with Dr Amy Bowman from his research group.

Professor Birch-Machin said: "As our bodies age we see that the batteries in our cells run down, known as decreased bio-energy, and harmful free radicals increase.

"This process is easily seen in our skin as increased fine lines, wrinkles and sagging appears. You know the story, or at least your mirror does first thing in the morning!

"Our study shows, for the first time, in human skin that with increasing age there is a specific decrease in the activity of a key metabolic enzyme found in the batteries of the skin cells.

"This enzyme is the hinge between the two important ways of making energy in our cells and a decrease in its activity contributes to decreased bio-energy in ageing skin.

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"Our research means that we now have a specific biomarker, or a target, for developing and screening anti-ageing treatments and cosmetic creams that may counter this decline in bio-energy.

"There is now a possibility of finding anti-ageing treatments which can be tailored to differently aged and differently pigmented skin, and with the additional possibility to address the ageing process elsewhere in our bodies."

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Complex II activity was measured in 27 donors, from aged six to 72 years. Samples were taken from a sun-protected area of skin to determine if there was a difference in activity with increasing age.

Techniques were used to measure the activities of the key enzymes within mitochondria that are involved in producing the skin cell's energy, a type of mitochondrial gym or skin physical. This was applied to cells derived from the upper (epidermis) and lower (dermis) levels of skin.

International Aesthetic Show Calendar Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators Pty Ltd

June 22-25

Non-Surgical Symposium Australian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS) Gold Coast Convention Centre, Gold Coast, QLD T: 03 9020 7056 Email: info@tphe.com.au

June 11

Professional Beauty Belfast Waterfront T: +44 (0) 207 351 0536 Email: Colette@professionalbeauty.co.uk

Dr Bowman, Research Associate at Newcastle University's Institute of Cellular Medicine, said: "Newcastle University is pioneering research into ageing as it has long been thought that mitochondria play an important role in the ageing process, however the exact role has remained unclear.

June 3-5

Premier Orlando Orlando/Orange County Convention Center T: +1 407.265.3131 F: +1 407.265.3134

"Our work brings us one step closer to understanding how these vital cell structures may be contributing to human ageing, with the hope of eventually specifically targeting areas of the mitochondria in an attempt to counteract the signs of ageing," Dr Bowman said.

June 15-18

Facial Esthetic Conference & Exhibition QEII Centre Westminster, London T: + 020 7514 5989 Email: info@face-ltd.com

June 24-26

Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Las Vegas Convention Center T: + 212.895.8200 F: + 212.895.8209

June 22-25

Non-Surgical Symposium Australian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ASAPS) Gold Coast Convention Centre T: 03 9020 7056 Email: info@tphe.com.au

July 4-6

ANNUAL MEETING OF THE BRITISH ASSOCIATION OF DERMATOLOGISTS ACC Liverpool, UK T: +44 02073830266 F: + 44 02073885268 Email: admin@bad.org.uk

July 24-26

COSMOPROF North America Mandalay Bay Las Vegas T: + 1 480.281.0424 x 3445 Email: info@cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

It was found that complex II activity significantly declined with age, per unit of mitochondria, in the cells derived from the lower rather than the upper levels, an observation not previously reported for human skin.

The scientists found that the reason for this is the amount of enzyme protein was decreased and furthermore this decrease was only observed in those cells that had stopped proliferating. Further studies will now be required to fully understand the functional consequences in skin and other tissues, and to establish methods to assess anti-ageing strategies in human skin.

Reference: https://www.sciencedaily.com

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Connect with APAN and let your voice be heard – gain insider knowledge, have fun, network, stay up-to-date with the events, news and the latest industry insights via our professional online community – find us: APAN.page | @apanetwork apanetwork.com | @apanetwork | http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page

July 30

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APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCE – BRISBANE T: 07 5593 0360 E-Mail: info@apanetwork.com www.apanetwork.com

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cosmeticprocedures

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GAINING THE PERFECT POUT

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By Tina Viney

BEAUTIFUL lips are a sign of youthfulness and gorgeous full lips were something that the likes of Angelina Jolie made popular several years ago.

While achieving a plump pout became the new trend, several horrendous

exaggerations have highlighted also what can go wrong when overdone.

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It is a well established fact that the first two features that one observes on

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someone are they eyes and the lips. These are both expression features that do not stay immobile. They move when we speak and express ourselves.

As the orbital muscles that support both the eyes and the mouth start to age we experience changes that can make these features less attractive. In this article we look at how the mouth ages and ways that we can assist with rejuvenating this feature.

HOW THE MOUTH AGES Looking at the mouth anatomically will allow us to understand how the ageing process can effect it. We know that the major muscle that surrounds the mouth is the orbicularis oris.

The orbicularis oris is not a simple sphincter muscle like the orbicularis oculi surrounding the eye; it consists of numerous strata of muscular fibres surrounding the orifice of the mouth, but having different direction. It consists partly of fibres derived from the other facial muscles, which are inserted into the lips, and partly of fibres proper to the lips. Of the former, a considerable number are derived from the buccinator muscle and form the deeper stratum of the orbicularis.

Some of the buccinator fibers - namely, those near the middle of the muscle – decussate at the angle of the mouth, those arising from the maxilla passing to the lower lip and those from the mandible to the upper lip. The uppermost and lowermost fibres of the buccinator pass across the lips from side to side without decussation. It does not end there. There are several other muscle that compose the network of muscles that support the mouth.

probably best to make the appointment two or three weeks before.

This will allow for the procedure to settle in and any adverse swelling that will make the mouth look exaggerated and the procedure too obvious.

3. Cruising for no bruising. Prevention is always better than cure. To avoid bruising, around 10 days before a procedure your client should avoid blood thinners like painkillers, fish oil and Vitamin E, which promote bruising and bleeding. Using Hirudoid Cream or Arnica ointment or tablets can also help.

4. Does the treatment wear off? Yes, the lips will return to their natural, pre-treatment state. They can then decide if they would like to top up. Any lines and wrinkles they had prior to the treatment will return as the treatment wears off. However, some dermal fillers stimulate new collagen growth, which may lead to long-lasting improvements in the skin's volume, even after the injected dermal filler has been absorbed by the body.

5 Step-by-Step. While they should take the process step-by-step once the treatment is completed they may still like the effect.

Sometimes lips look great when one looks expressionless in the mirror, but when they start to speak the lips can look a little exaggerated. Also as the face changes with age this may necessitate that the procedure may need to be reassessed. Today, there are many products available so there are options, however, most are not permanent so this means that changes can be made to the look they want next time.

6. Lip refreshing treatment. With the treatment options available today there are several non-injectable/filler treatments available.

You can perform a series of skin needling treatment, microcurrent treatment or other treatment options that will enhance blood flow and collagen stimulation to refresh the face first and also the lips. As we stated earlier, anatomically there are several muscles that support the volume and shape of the mouth. Often if a series of face lifting techniques are introduce the mouth may also gain extra support making filler augmentation treatment unnecessary at that particular Dermal fillers can certainly improve the smile and freshen the look, time. but it's important to understand that one size never fits all. So, the first rule of getting a lip treatment is to understand a few basic 7. How to make smaller, thinner lips sexier with makeup?

Enhancing the cupid's bow with highlighter then kicking up the considerations and also be guided by professional advice. corners of the lips can give an instant lip lift. If you need to, use a lip Whether your client wants big luscious lips or something a little more pencil to add extra volume to the lip body – but keep it subtle and subtle and natural looking, here are some things to consider: remember to blend, blend, blend!

With age, as fat deposit around the mouth deteriorate and supporting muscles weaken, the mouth starts to lose its shape and volume.

Additionally, as bones deteriorate and shift with age they also contribute to changes to the mouth. Another key factor in lip and low face deterioration is also attributed to teeth loss, or movement creating changes of support to the mouth. These deteriorations may not necessarily be symmetrical, with one side of the lips or mount experiencing greater droop than the other.

1. Don't shoot for the stars. Many doctors who are consulted often indicate that clients will come with photos of a full-lipped Angelina and say "I want lips like her". However, it is all about balance.

Angelina also has the appropriate bone structure to support her lips.

In order for lips to look good they must be proportionate to the rest of the face.

Additionally, if the face is showing signs of ageing with weak muscle tone creating lips that would look normal on a 20-year-old, will look odd on a say a 50-year-old face with the rest of the face showing its age. This is not a "stand-alone" feature. It is part of a face and it has to balance and be in proportion to the other features on the face. So if you are wanting to increase the size of your lips it's usually recommended that you achieve this gradually over two to three treatments until you achieve the desired effect. This will also ensure fewer complications.

8. Consider a cosmetic tattooing procedure. Modern techniques in cosmetic tattooing offer amazing results. A beautifully defined lipline with a blend often can take years off lips and create greater definition and volume. Additionally, full lip colour through a cosmetic tattoo procedure can offer an instant youthful look that will only require a little gloss and you are complete. The new ombre techniques offer amazing results for improve lip shape and volume.

CONCLUSION When consulting with your client, make sure you provide them with professional options. If their lips are dry it is important to provide a conditioning treatment. This may include appropriate peels and the introduction of a hydrating mask. There are also several high quality lip balms that can help support hydration levels as well as nourishing lipsticks and lip treatments.

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Each feature can benefit from of variety of options and lips also have 2. Plan ahead. Most people experience some swelling and possibly their choices. bruising after lip augmentation – this is completely normal and can take between 24-48 hours to settle down.

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memberprofile

NEW GENERATION PRACTITIONER WE just love to profile our APAN members as this not only recognises and honours their achievements, but also allows others within the industry to gain inspiration from a colleague's professional journey and possibly pick up some winning tips.

In this issue we are delighted to profile Carolyn Della-Zoppa, owner of Proskin Clinic with a unique style of sole operator with a difference. She is a qualified Dermal Therapist as well as a leading Cosmetic Tattoo practitioner and proudly offers her valued clients a unique and personalised service, as well as supports other businesses, by offering her time two days a week in services to regional and country salons and clinics.

Based in Adelaide, she divides her time between her private CBD studio and five exclusive country South Australian businesses. In this article she shares the secrets to her success with APJ.

Last year I completed and upgraded with the Graduate Diploma of Dermal Therapies and Graduate Certificate in Laser and IPL Hair Reduction. I was the first therapist in South Australia to complete the Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science (AACDS) in 2010.

The qualifications have given me the opportunity to fully understand the science of skin health and ageing and enable me to pass this knowledge on to my clients.

Working full-time and studying isn't easy, but the rewards definitely are paying off. I am a member of the Association of Cosmetic Tattoo Australia and also a Gold (Cosmetic Tattoo) member of APAN. I have completed numerous trainings offered by visiting international trainers and travelled to the UK a few years ago to train with Larra Johnson.

I decided to introduce cosmetic tattoo into my business seven years ago as I was referring clients elsewhere and thought that it is a skill I should learn and that it would be a natural progression of what I was currently offering. I am glad I made this shift as since introducing cosmetic tattoo it is now approximately 50% of my business.

APJ Q1: CAROLYN WHAT QUALIFICATIONS DO YOU HOLD WITHIN THE INDUSTRY AND WHY DID YOU CHOOSE TO COMBINE AESTHETICS AND COSMETIC Today's clients more than ever before want anti-ageing results.

TATTOOING? Dermal therapies including laser and light-based therapies is a highly CAROLYN: I qualified as a beauty therapist back in 1985 (my competitive market. While we can achieve a level of skin

parents gifted the diploma course for my 21st birthday present).

Needless to say I haven't looked back as it has opened many doors for me within the industry, not only within the beauty salon and clinic environments, but also regional and area manager roles with leading cosmeceutical companies such as Ultraceuticals, ASAP Skin Products and Environ. I have also worked in counter manager roles with the major department stores with major brands like Christian Dior, Revlon and Elizabeth Arden. This has given me a greater understanding of the importance of client relations and an in-depth understanding of the various dynamics that shape our industry and client expectations.

improvement we cannot perform injectibles and take results even further, unless we are nurses or a cosmetic doctor. Current advances in cosmetic tattooing techniques can offer amazing anti-ageing results through enhanced eyebrow shaping, eyeliner techniques to resemble thicker lashes, lip line techniques to improve shape and volume of lips, and lip-tinting to create more youthful looking lips.

There is a great deal that cosmetic tattooing techniques can offer in the area of anti-ageing. It is therefore a natural progression for me to offer both dermal therapies and cosmetic tattooing.

With over 30 years experience within the industry combined with

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graduate advanced diploma studies in dermal therapies and cosmetic tattooing I have the knowledge and experience in the delivery of advanced treatment results to the new level that currently consumers are seeking and expecting.

APJ Q2: YOU HAVE A UNIQUE OPERATION THAT ALLOWS YOU TO SERVICE CLIENTS FROM YOUR OWN ESTABLISHMENT AS WELL AS O F F E R Y O U R S E RV I C E S TO O T H E R BUSINESSES. SHARE WILL US WHAT YOU OFFER AND WHY YOU CHOSE TO WORK THIS WAY? CAROLYN: I divide my time between my private CBD studio and five exclusive country South Australian salons.

I offer a personalised one-to-one service to all my clients and focus on building relationships and following the progress of treatment results. In my City Studio Proskin Clinic, I have the luxury that I can allow extra treatment time so my clients don't feel rushed. Most of my regular clients appreciate the bespoke and private location of my studio. Due to high demand for my services my country trips are very busy and fully-booked in advance. Having a country background I know that there is life outside the city limits and when I decided to start my own business I saw an opportunity to service country salons and offer treatments, not currently available to them. Country clients are very grateful to have a specialist visit them and it's a win-win for the salons as well, as they are able to offer treatments that extend beyond of their standard menu offering and also earn additional income from my services. I pay a percentage back to the salon as they book and manage the appointments and promote and market the services I offer.

I offer dermal therapies such as microderambrasion, radio frequency skin tightening, IPL Allegro permanent hair reduction, skin rejuvenation, acne treatments, cosmetic tattooing, Lamp Probe skin tag removal and skin needling. In my studio I also offer basic and oxygen facials and other grooming services. Recently I introduced non-laser A+Ocean tattoo removal service. I carry three product lines (Ultraceuticals, ASAP and Environ), as I believe strongly in following up a treatment with quality homecare that is supported by scientifically-validated results. Having worked with these companies I trust their formulas and know what I can expect from them in terms of results.

The underlying principle of my business model is based on the belief that it is always best not to put "all of your eggs in one basket" so that's why I work in different locations and offer multiple treatment and product options. In that way I can target and service needs in multiple locations and not just my own. It is also rewarding to be able to support other businesses to reach their business goals and stay current in their offerings by accessing someone as myself that can offer them advanced treatments.

consistency, continuity, reliability, flexibility and transparency and working within a quality and ethical framework. I like to under promise and over deliver.

When a new client walks into my CBD studio I am usually greeted with 'wow, you are qualified!" This is because I proudly display all of my major qualifications and my membership and affiliations to major industry bodies and clients do pay attention to these and appreciate them. They are my silent promoters of my commitment to constantly improving my knowledge and also my commitment to best practice.

Additionally, I offer an ambient, clean and quiet environment.

I am now in the half-century club being in my 50s. As a result, my mature clients looking for anti-ageing treatments and lifestyle advice feel more confident dealing with someone who can understand the changes that can occur with ageing and hormone decline.

My recent studies have broadened my knowledge. I have come to understand that treating a client isn't just about recommending homecare products and in-salon treatments, but also looking at diet, health and lifestyle factors as well.

APJ Q3: WHAT IS YOUR KEY FOCUS WHEN SERVICING YOUR CLIENTS AND TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE It amazes me when colleagues view education as a cost issue instead SUCCESS OF YOUR BUSINESS? of an investment into becoming better and more competitive at what CAROLYN: Building relationships and trust with a client is they do. The knowledge you gain will allow you to continually important. I have chosen to work as a sole operator for a number of reasons. But let's first look at what it means to the client. I have noticed that clients don't always appreciate the concept of “a different day – a different therapist” so I attribute my success to

educate and communicate new and exciting information to your clients. This will result in strengthening their trust in your knowledge and recommendation, they will become loyal to you and the end result is that ultimately your business will grow. By investing in your

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on-going education your clients will come to appreciate you as the best source of accurate knowledge they can turn to instead of relying on bits and pieces they are getting from social media and magazines.

Business success is no longer based just on protocols and procedures and sales targets, we are working on individuals who also value and listen to our recommendations if we are perceived to be up-to-date in our knowledge and education. If we are recognised as highly resourceful experts who can offer our clients accurate and objective evidence-based information that will educate them on their options, they will always gravitate to us and act upon our recommendations.

APJ Q4: SHARE WITH US AN AMAZING EXPERIENCE YOU RECENTLY HAD WITH A CLIENT, WHERE YOUR WORK CREATED A REAL POSITIVE CHANGE TO THEM? CAROLYN: I have been working with a client who approached me

remove her tattooed eyebrows and then further down the track have them retattooed correctly. She contacts me regularly with update photos so we can monitor her healing.

APJQ5: YOU ARE HIGHLY COMMITTED TO ON-GOING EDUCATION. CAN YOU TELL US IN WHAT WAY HAS THAT I N V E S T M E N T CONTRIBUTED TO YOUR CONFIDENCE AND YOUR SUCCESS? WHAT ADVICE WOULD YOU GIVE SOMEONE WHO BELIEVES THAT THEIR ORIGINAL QUALIFICATIONS IS ALL THAT THEY NEED TO SUCCEED? CAROLYN: Apart from updating my qualifications in dermal

almost 12 months ago with an eyebrow cosmetic tattoo disaster story.

She had a procedure with an inexperienced technician and came out after the procedure with, not just bad eyebrows, but also with blood running down her face that ended up as an infection. She tried to have them corrected elsewhere and ended up with very obvious camouflage pigment. She then tried to have them removed but the test patch was unsuccessful. At the time I said that I wasn't sure if I could help her, but would stay in touch. Late last year I completed the A+Ocean Tattoo removal training and felt excited to make contact therapies and IPL I regularly attend conference programs and with this lady and let her know that I felt I could have a solution for cosmetic tattoo training to stay on top of my field. I love learning and you. although studying for qualifications, or attending conferences and After a successful test patch I performed a A+Ocean removal on-going training programs can be time consuming and expensive, I treatment on this client and she is thrilled with the results. She said feel it ultimately pays for itself tenfold. I find when I attend seminars I that she felt confident in my knowledge and honesty and trusts me to not only learn from the lectures, but often also from the person sitting next to me, or others who are attending the event. Our industry is constantly evolving and changing and if someone doesn't keep up-todate with training and currents trends they will get left behind. It is important that we also attend, not just product-based education, but also independent industry events such as the APAN conferences as they give us a more diverse perspective of advances in the industry including standards and regulations that will affect our future.

APJQ6: WHAT DOES BEING A MEMBER OF APAN MEAN TO YOU AND WHAT DO YOU VALUE THE MOST OF YOUR MEMBERSHIP? CAROLYN: The purpose and value of my APAN membership has to do with the importance of being part of an organisation that is committed to improving regulations and training standards for the future of the industry as a whole. It is important that we have a body that is prepared to fight for us. As a member, I benefit from the credibility of belonging to a leading industry standards body and I also benefit from the confidence that I can turn to a reputable organisation that can offer me support, business advice, legal advice and backup when the need arises.

Additionally, APAN's conference programs are fantastic, not only for learning, but also for building relationships and contacts with other, like-minded professionals as well as with supply companies.

APJ Q87: WHAT ARE YOUR ASPIRATIONS FOR THE FUTURE? CAROLYN: I want to continue to be the best at my chosen profession so I plan to attend as many training and educational programs as I can to ensure that I gain the knowledge and skills I need to achieve this.

That way life can only get better.

For further information on Carolyn Della Zoppa and Proskin Clinic visit:http://proskinclinic.com.au/about-proskin-clinic/

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The Highest Professional Standards now has a New Name As the Aesthetics industry continues to advance so has the need to identify its leading practitioners through a new Standards Recognition Registration Classification.

APAN REGISTERED AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERÂŽ (ARAP) Is the new industry Registration. Applicants will be assessed on their qualifications, knowledge, skills and standards. Industry professionals are invited to apply for Registration.

There are five Registration Classifications:

] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Clinician ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Associate ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Master Educator ] Registered Aesthetics Practitioner Educator

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Dermal Clinicians Dermal Therapists Cosmetic Nurses Skin Therapists Aesthetic Practitioners Educators A Quality Assurance Officer will assess each application on their qualifications and merits and determine eligibility.

APPLY TODAY For further information visit www.apanetwork.com and complete an ARAP Online Application Form.

If you require further details please phone APAN 07 5593 0360.

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INFLAMMATION LEADS TO INFLAMMAGEING

By Terry Everitt WELL-KNOWN for his extensive knowledge on ingredient chemistry, Terry Everitt addresses the complex role of inflammation as it relates to skin renewal and ageing. This would have to be one of the most resourceful articles that he has presented to APJ on this subject, which looks at both the science and its relevance to skin disorders, as well as cosmetic ingredients that can provide anti-inflammatory and antiageing solutions. We trust you will gain valuable knowledge from this well-constructed article.

Although inflammation is often thought of in terms of an infection or wound, it's actually the body's natural response mechanism to trauma and is a very complex biological process. Inflammation is the mechanism that the body uses to protect itself against harmful stimuli and is an essential part of the immune system.

The word inflammation is derived from the Latin word inflammare, which means “to set on fire.”

Severe inflammation is an aspect of many age-related diseases, and the lifelong accumulation of molecular damage resultant from chronic inflammation is known to serve as an indicator and contributor of the ageing process. Inflammation is so involved in the ageing process that a term is now in common usage – “inflammageing”. You probably see it more with the American spelling as “Inflammaging”.

Inflammation itself is designed to help the body heal. However, when this is exaggerated, the body has an abnormal response. The body produces too many inflammatory messengers and the result is an inflammatory disease, from which the body never completely recovers from.

Inflammation is a common key factor in many skin conditions and while many people talk about inflammation, few know details of what it is. So, what are the basics of inflammation?

FIVE CARDINAL SIGNS OF INFLAMMATION The classification of the signs of inflammation have been well known through the centuries with the original signs being named in Latin and attributed to Aulus Cornelius Celsus in 1AD. There were four descriptors attributed to inflammation with the fifth (FUNCTIOLAESA) added in early 19th century. A bit confusing as some books describe 4 and some describe 5 signs of inflammation.

RUBOR – redness due to increased blood blow and vasodilation CALOR – heat due to increase blood flow to the periphery TUMOR – swelling from inflammatory edema DOLOR – pain from swelling and presence of inflammatory mediators

FUNCTIOLAESA – loss of function due to main and structural necrosis Thinking about what happens in the tissues for these five cardinal signs to appear, gives an understanding of inflammation.

! ! ! !

Increased blood flow due to vascular dilatation gives redness and heat.

Increased vascular permeability gives oedema causing tissue swelling.

Chemical mediators stimulate sensory nerve endings giving pain. Nerves also stimulated by stretching from oedema.

Pain and swelling result in loss of function.

ACUTELY CHRONIC, OR CHRONICALLY ACUTE? There are two broad classifications of inflammation that relate primarily to time. These are acute and chronic.

Acute is the initial response by the body to initiate healing and works via negative feedback mechanisms – when inflammation processes have reacted sufficiently to the injury, it “shuts off”' having done what it was supposed to do. Acute inflammation generally lasts for several days and is essential to the healing process. This is simply the body's way of sending internal support to the wound site by increasing the flow of plasma and leukocytes to eliminate pathogens. Swelling indicates the area is full of plasma, and pain draws awareness to the damage, prompting gentle care be taken. This is normal inflammation and is a good thing, which quickly resides.

Chronic inflammation is prolonged in duration, where the inflammatory processes continue to cascade, which can often lead to a variety of diseases, seen both topically and systemically. The correlation between chronic inflammation and cutaneous and systemic diseases was suggested decades ago by Albert Kligmam and Robert Lavker and has since been scientifically-validated and accepted.1 Sub-clinical inflammation is the real concern in terms of ageing. This is inflammation that is constant yet not causing a major inflammatory response or a clinical pathology; thus it is considered sub-clinical. It is however, the magnitude of this over time that is now thought of as a major contributor of ageing. Not only of the skin, but to the entire body.

Sub-clinical is sometimes referred to as “silent inflammation” – it is insidious since it is chronic inflammation without any overt signs or symptoms. The by-product of the mitochondria (discussed later in the article) is a classic illustration of sub-clinical or silent inflammation.

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CRP, AA, EPA Obviously, it would be useful to know how much of this sub-clinical inflammatory damage we have going on. One way is via a blood test measuring C-Reactive Protein (CRP). This is termed an acute phase reactant. CRP is so named, because it was first discovered by reacting to the C-polysaccharide of Streptococcus pneumoniae; but that is another story not to get into here.

CRP testing, although in common practice is however a rather crude marker and not specific enough as it measures only one small component of the inflammatory load. Better testing is available in getting more precise measurement of the ratio of arachidonic acid (AA) which is the building block of the pro-inflammatory eicosanoids. Also measured is iseicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), which is the building block of the anti-inflammatory eicosanoids.

It is the balance of those two fatty acids in the blood that reflects the same balance of those two fatty acids in each of the 60 trillion cells in the body, giving a more precise indicator of the silent inflammation that is causing a slow death of the cells throughout the body.

INTEGUMENTARY SYSTEM You are aware of the diversity of the cells and structures that make up the integumentary system, so I will not say much on this. However, in terms of the integumentary system, repeated chronic disruption of the skin barrier due to any cause has been documented to activate chronic inflammation, resulting in various dermatosis.2.3.

The skin's barrier function is mainly attributed to the lipid components of its outermost layer which effectively protects the body from drying out and prevents foreign substances from penetrating the skin. By maintaining the barrier lipid layer at its peak performance level, the damaging effects of environment and lifestyle on the skin can be controlled.

Optimising the stratum corneum barrier function is necessary to prevent activation and reverse the skin damage caused by inflammation, particularly chronic inflammation. Returning the skin to its normal function and structure should reverse, minimise and possibly prevent visible skin ageing. This however, is more easily said than done due to the incredibly intricate array of biochemistry involved, some of which I mention below.

The other aspect is the dermis, providing the depth and volume of the skin. Here again is a rich variation of cells and structural elements that are constantly interacting in keeping the dermis in its homeostatic state of health and wellness. Needless to say, sub-clinical inflammation causes all sorts of disruption and consequent loss of structure and resilience. This has effect not only in the dermis, but also shows in the topology of the visible skin.

HERE COMES THE BIOCHEMISTRY Inflammation is controlled by inflammatory messengers, or mediators. These messengers are typically made up of fatty acids.

Not the major, yet the most known, chemical mediator released from cells during initial inflammation is histamine. Carried by circulating basophils and mast cells, histamine is released immediately when these cells are injured, causing vasodilation and increases vascular permeability.

Two major classes of inflammatory messengers are prostaglandins and leukotrienes.

Prostaglandins (which are fatty acids) encourage blood vessels around the area of inflammation to dilate, thus making it easier for the various white blood cells (WBCs) to get where they need to go. The blood plasma leaving the vessels is manifested as swelling and redness (two of the classic characteristic signs of inflammation).

Plasma contains four interrelated systems of proteins termed kinins, coagulation factors, fibrinolytics and complement, which in turn generate various inflammatory mediators. I will not go into these – yet suffice to say they are all from the circulatory system and effect white bloods cells in their functions, one way or another.

Prostaglandins also stimulate nerves that send pain messages to the brain. There are three prostaglandin pathways: prostaglandin-1, prostaglandin-2, and prostaglandin-3.

Prostaglandin-1 and 3 are the good guys being anti-inflammatory, while prostaglandin-2 is the bad guy being pro-inflammatory.

The scale of the attack that the body can launch on inflammation is determined by the number of leukotrienes. You could think of leukotrienes as supporting troops to the front-line warriors, white blood cells.

Skin barrier disruption activates the release of tumour necrosis factor alpha (TNFα) and interleukins 1 (IL-1) and 8 (IL-8), as well as other pro-inflammatory molecules to induce protective acute inflammation and trigger repair of the damaged skin barrier.4, Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) are enzymes that activate inflammation and degrade damaged dermal ground substance, plus collagen and elastin to remodel the skin after injury.

These destructive enzymes are synthesized in several skin cells, including fibroblasts, keratinocytes and mast cells. While there are a number of different MMPs, Collagenase (MMP-1), Stromelysin (MMP-3) and Gelatinase (MMP-9) are the most important, as they play most havoc with the destruction of structural components of the dermis.

Another major player in the inflammatory response is the protein, Nuclear factor kappa beta (NF-κβ). NF-κβ is activated in response to oxidative stress, and its activation triggers an increase in a number of pro-inflammatory mediators, including interleukin (IL)-6, IL-1, IL8, tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α), and transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β).

Each of above then causes a cascade of other biochemical processes, each singularly and collectively instituting differing effects and damage to the individual cell, and the tissues. The end result is damage to the cell is mostly repaired by indigenous mechanisms – when they are not, ageing begins due to the sustained damaged.

MITOCHONDRIA IS BOTH FRIEND AND FOE There is a rich vein of scientific literature relating to the mitochondria and how it may contribute to ageing.

Thoughts on how the mitochondria influence ageing was given further credence from a landmark study by Shallenberger 2008, which showed dysfunctions occurred in the mitochondria of healthy asymptomatic 20-40-year-old subjects, well before any signs of ageing or degenerative disease processes became apparent. EOMD (Early Onset Mitochondria Dysfunction) causes a gradual decay and loss of mitochondria function.5 We already know that the mitochondria are both a producer and target of oxidative stress.

Within the cell, the mitochondria play's a major role in inflammaging and in the activation of Nlrp3 inflammasome. The Nlrp3 inflammasome is a multiprotein complex that can activate procaspase- 1 in response to cellular danger resulting in the increased processing and secretion of the proinflammatory cytokines IL-1β and IL-18.6

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We already know that the mitochondria, being the 'powerhouse' of the cell produces a vast number of free radicals. This increases remarkably in inflammation via the Nlrp3 inflammasome, resulting in increased oxidative stress of the cell.

While you may not have heard of Nlrp3 inflammasome, a simple Google search will pull up multiple results relating to this protein.

We tend to think of the mitochondria as a good guy, toiling away making energy for the cell and hence the tissues, organs and body.

This is true, yet it comes with a dark side.

There are at least three major mechanisms through which mitochondria can damage or kill their host, namely through production of ROS, pro-inflammatory signals or through mitochondrial membrane permeabilisation.

Via these processes, the mitochondria decreases its autophagy (destruction of internal organelles). It is this accumulation of damaged mitochondria that is an important cause of ongoing subclinical inflammation resulting in increased ageing.

POST-INFLAMMATORY HYPERPIGMENTATION (PIHP) This perhaps is the most familiar sequela of the inflammatory outcomes in the skin, whether this islentigines, lentigos or melisma, frequently a result of Ultra Violet Radiation or hormonal imbalance, which initiate and maintain melanogenesis from the melanocyte.

If the appropriate signalling occurs, once the injury insult is removed the excess melanin is no longer produced, returning the melanocyte to homeostasis. Over a relatively short period of time, the keratinocytes with the additional melanin come up to the top of the stratum corneum and are removed, thus the skin returns to its normal pigmentary state.

Two different adverse reactions can take place that keep the heightened pigmentation occurring. One being that the melanocyte has been damaged, yet not destroyed, thus continually producing the same increased amount of melanin. The genes provide this coding to successive generation of melanocytes.

Second, it is possible for the melanin to become dermal. The melanin produced during an inflammatory event can enter the dermis where it is engulfed by macrophages, producing ''melanophages.'' These cells are often retained in the upper dermis for prolonged periods since removal of dermal melanin is a very slow process. Thus, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation can be a very long-lived problem for the skin, the client and yourself.

TREATMENT There are many possible treatment strategies available, some however, carry the risk of further PIHP. While thought of as contraindicated, medium to deeper chemical peels can be very useful treatment. However, you need to proceed with great caution and experience.

IPL/LASER is another example of effectiveness, however with possible downside. The safest treatment methodology, although more time consuming is the use of topical ingredients in skincare, specifically formulated for melanin reduction. Your client may be on a prescriptive topical such as a type of corticosteroid, or retinoic acid.

The production of melanin is a complex process which provides many individual areas of intervention, thus a plethora of ingredients that interact at different stages of the melanin production cycle.

A classic target is inhibition of tyrosinase, the first enzyme in the conversion of tyrosine to melanin. A wide array of compounds, such as kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ellagic acid, sulfhydryl compounds and resorcinols, among others are effective tyrosinase inhibitors.

Niacinamide is used to reduce and hopefully prevent melanosome transfer, with glucosamine (in particular, its derivative N-acetyl glucosamine [NAG]) and works to inhibit tyrosinase glycosylation.

N-undecylenoyl-L-phenylalanine may already be in your product, which takes a different target approach. This ingredient inhibits the binding of alpha-MSH (Melanin Stimulating Hormone) to the melanocyte, thus reducing the signalling to begin melanin production, rather than interrupting the production.

Prevention of excess melanin from injury and resulting inflammation is preferred. Of course, the most prevalent and effective way to do this is with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) product applied correctly. At least SPF 15, preferably SPF 30. More than this has diminishing protection value given the increased amount of ingredient to get the higher SPF numbers.

STRESS We know that stress affects the body in a variety of ways, both mentally and physically.

In terms of skin, stress in its entire spectrum has been implicated as a precipitating factor for a variety of inflammatory skin conditions such as psoriasis, acne, and atopic dermatitis.7.8.

Normal physiologic response to stress involves activation of the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal (HPA) axis and the sympathetic adrenomedullary (SAM) axis, both of which regulate the immune system, via the regulation of a number of hormones and chemical signalling. Generally, these two systems work nicely together keeping all calm and functioning in a homeostatic process.

When this normal response to stress is impaired, the downstream effect flares inflammatory skin conditions. This is due to the immune system involvement from the (HPA and SAM) axis mentioned above.

PROTECTION IS KEY It is now clear that destructive sub-clinical inflammation can be prevented and reversed by the consumption of proper food and oral supplements, as well as the application of topical skin care products.

After any procedure/treatment that has involved a controlled wounding to initiate a healing response to improve the skin, you need to get the normal barrier defences back again.

If not, then environmental pollutants, UVR have a higher probability to cause further damage and to impede the healing process. Thus, you have negated the proposed benefits of the treatment just performed.

Any “resurfacing� treatment will leave the corneum barrier compromised, leading to redness, irritation and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). You need to instantly protect a compromised barrier – this is key to preventing infection, further damage and moisture loss.

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Product ingredients must also provide anti-inflammation properties to ensure optimal healing.

Of course, one of the biggest contributors of inflammation and ageing is the sun. Remind clients the best defence against ageing is prevention, and to use an SPF 30, or higher containing natural sunscreens, such as zinc oxide.

Although not all causes of inflammation can be avoided, this is one stimulus that is avoidable and will protect the skin from irreversible damage. Keep in mind that proper diagnosis is essential. If you are ever unsure of the cause of inflammation, refer clients to a medical professional. Other “high level” treatments include the use of antioxidants and botanical extracts (some mentioned below), peptides and growth factors.

REDUCING INFLAMMATION As I have noted, inflammation is at the root of many of skin's greatest challenges. It becomes necessary for skincare professionals to shift from just addressing the issue at hand and dive deeper to treat the inflammation, or source of inflammation. This is where antiinflammatory and antioxidant-rich ingredients become your greatest allies.

Antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients should not only be a part of a healthy diet, but also a part of a healthy skin regimen.

Topicals known to inhibit inflammation, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), reactive oxygen species (ROS) and glycation include:

! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Arnica – It speeds wound-healing and reduces inflammation.

Centella asiatica – a herbaceous plant that's a powerful antiinflammatory.

Epidermal growth factor (EGF) – a protein that heals skin injuries and stimulates cell proliferation.

Ergothioneine – a potent antioxidant and naturally derived amino acid.

Glucosamine HCI – provides anti-inflammatory and antiglycation support.

Glycine soja – This MMP-blocker has amino acids that promote collagen and elastin synthesis.

Omega 6 essential fatty acids (linoleic and oleic acid) – These provide anti-inflammatory skin-building benefits.

Peptides – work to activate tissue growth factor (TGF) and collagen production.

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) – antioxidant and collagenbuilder, vitamin C protects against photodamage, neutralises ROS and supports wound-healing.

Liquorice – contains glabridin and licochalcone A, which both inhibit tyrosinase activity. Glabridin is also anti-inflammatory so it has a dual function.

You could also be using butcher's broom, cinnamon, D-alpha tocopherol, green tea, L-glutathione (tripeptide) or resveratrol.

This list is only a few ingredients that are of help – there are of course many more that help support the skin topically from some of the effects from inflammation. Healthful, low-inflammatory diet rich in antioxidants will also support overall skin health. ! Vitamin A – carrots, kale, spinach, pumpkin, liver and cantaloupe; ! Vitamin C – camucamu, broccoli, brussels sprouts, guava and citrus; ! Vitamin E – olive oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, oats, tomatoes and carrots; ! Bioflavonoids – citrus, berries, onions, tea, red wine, dark chocolate, sea buckthorn; ! Polyphenols – berries, tea, dark chocolate, walnuts, peanuts and pomegranates.

MORE INGREDIENTS TO CONSIDER Barrier repair ingredients (reparative lipids) are typically rich in lipids like the intercellular lipids found in skin, to initially seal the moisture barrier and protect it. Having bioavailable lipids in your products such as cholesterol, ceramides, linoleic acid as well as lauric, palmitic and stearic acids among others, comprise the natural protective stratum corneum permeability barrier, which will help repair the barrier protection, thus reducing inflammation.

Relatively new ingredients such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, which are antioxidant bionic acids, are non-irritating humectant compounds. They are said also to reduce MMP activity and nonenzymatic glycation which is a nice bonus.

You cannot really go wrong with hyaluronic acid-based products.

Aloe vera gel, olive leaf extract (sometimes listed as oleuropein), vitamin B5 and zinc sulfate are all great ingredients for various aspects of inflammation.

Whatever you use, your products need to contain multiple calming and hydrating ingredients. Many ingredients are multi-purpose in addressing the numerous pathways that create inflammation and redness; their ability to restore hydration and protect damaged skin makes them valuable post-procedure skincare ingredients.

Naturally you will provide your client with written post procedure instructions which include the need to treat the skin gently, no 'rubbing' in of product – gently smooth over the surface and leave the product to absorb. A skin with inflammation is sensitive, even if not feeling as such, as care is needed to bring it back to its natural state.

CONCLUSION I trust this writing has provided a wide base of information that can be used in understanding of a major underlying cause of ageing. Subclinical inflammation is a causative factor of much of what we see as an “aged skin” – modulation of the signs and symptoms is paramount in slowing the inflammatory damage.

Time will always be against you, yet you can make a great difference.

While identification of cause might be outside your scope of clinical practice, you can most effectively treat skin to maintain optimum health, vitality and thus the longevity of the individual cells of the various components of the skin.

REFERENCES 1. Lavker, R and Kligman, A. (1988). Chronic heliodermatitis: a morphological evaluation of chronic actinic dermal damage with emphasis on the role of mast cells, Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 90.325–330.

2. Heller, M. Lee, E. Koo, J. (2011). Stress as an influencing factor in psoriasis. Skin Therapy Letter. 16.5.1-4.

3. Zhang, Q.Raoof, M. Chen, Y. et al. (2010). Circulating mitochondrial DAMPs cause inflammatory responses to injury. Nature.

464.104–107. doi:10.1038/nature08780 4. Nickoloff, L. Naidu, Y. (1994). Perturbution of epidermal barrier function correlates with initiation of cytokine cascade in human skin.

Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 30. 535–546.

5. Shallenberger, (2008). The Energy Deficit Theory of Ageing and Diseases. The Original Internist, 15.1.31-51.

6. Chiu, A. Chon, S. Kimball, A. The response of skin disease to stress: changes in the severity of acne vulgaris as affected by examination stress. Archives of Dermatology. 139.7.897-900.

7. Arndt, J. Smith, N.Tausk, F. (2008). Stress and atopic dermatitis.

Current Allergy Asthma Reports.8.4.312-317.

8. Elias, P. et al, (2001). The link between barrier function and inflammation. Archives of Dermatology. 137.8.60–62.

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APAN has the answer!

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Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) P: 07 5593 0360 | info@apanetwork.com

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Are you a Cosmetic Tattooist who is committed to high COSMETIC TATTOO standards of education APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) excellence and best practice?

APAN’s COSMETIC TATTOO APAN REGISTERED PRACTITIONER (CTARP) registration is revolutionising the recognition and integrity of Cosmetic Tattooists nation-wide. CTARP registration was established due to serious Industry concern being raised over the deterioration of Cosmetic Tattoo practice and training standards and this registration is paving the way for identification of professional best practice in line with current Australian Standards.

To join CTARP the following prerequisite will be required:

! Must be a current financial member of APAN ! Government-Approved qualification in Cosmetic Tattooing

Registration renewal requirements:

! Maintain currency of APAN Membership ! Evidence of participation in post-graduate training within the previous 24 months ! Evidence of attending at least one APAN conference per year.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS MEDICAL COSMETIC TATTOOING PRAISED FOR IMPROVED PERCEPTION OF SCAR/GRAFT APPEARANCE AND QUALITY OF LIFE MEDICAL tattooing, also known as A. Before dermatography dermatography, is routinely used by plastic surgeons for nipple reconstruction after mastectomy.

The procedure also can be used to improve colour mismatch and the appearance of scars and skin grafts after head and neck surgical procedures, although it is often overlooked.

A recent article published by JAMA Facial Plastic Surgery looks at the effects of scar and skin graft dermatography in the head and neck area on patient satisfaction and quality of life.

The study by Rick van de Langenberg, M.D., Ph.D., of the Diakonessen Hospital in the Nethelands, and co-authors used two

B. After dermatography

questionnaires to evaluate the perception of the appearance of scars and skin grafts after dermatography and the quality of life in patients who had head and neck surgical procedures. The study included 56 patients.

The study outcome reported all patients were

satisfied and felt that their quality-of-life also improved after the procedures. The study concluded that the use of dermatography is warranted in patients with problematic scars and skin graft pigments after head and neck surgery procedures.

MAXIMIZING SAFETY DURING FACIAL FILLERS NEW techniques have been identified to help minimise bruising and complications post filler injectables. In an article published in Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (January 2017), Jack F. Scheuer III, MD, et al, outline general principles and safe practices for ensuring increased safety and better outcomes when administering facial filler injections. They recommended that practitioners can tailor injection techniques to prevent vessel injury and avoid cannulation by considering the

depth and the location of the vasculature within six “facial danger zones,� i.e., brows/glabella, temporal region, infraorbital area, lips/commissure, nasolabial folds and nose.

The article includes guidance on informed consent, injection technique and syringe usage. The authors also offer a lesson on pertinent facial anatomy, including strategies for injecting safely in each of the six danger zones:

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Brow and glabella area: Use a low G prime filler, injected intradermally; apply digital pressure at the supraorbital rim during injection to occlude vessels.

Temporal region: Injections in the temporal fossa should be administered in the preperiosteal plane, within a fingerbreadth of the arch and/or > 25mm above it to avoid the middle temporal vein.

The authors caution against

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injecting at intermediate depths, as it becomes nearly impossible to discern which layer is being injected.

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Infraorbital region: Inject laterally and avoid direct deep injections. Completely avoid injections more medial approaching the medial canthus; if necessary, filler can be injected laterally and pushed medially.

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Lips/commissure: Injections into the upper and lower lips should be < 3mm deep, with an intermediate or low G prime filler either at the vermilion cutaneous border or within the dry vermilion. For the commissure, the authors advise superficial subcutaneous injections in a linear crosshatching fashion.

Nasolabial fold: Near the alar base, the authors recommend

injecting intradermally or in the preperiosteal plane.

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Nose: All lateral injections should be > 3mm above the alar groove and deep, due to the shallow nature of the vasculature in this area, and injections to the tip and dorsum should be deep in the preperichondrial and preperiosteal planes.

BODY IMAGE ANXIETY PREVALENT AMONG THE YOUNG WITH the advent of social media promoting appearance enhancement some alarming statistics are indicating the impact on the young, a new study conducted in the UK confirmed.

The study revealed that more than half of young people regularly worry about how they look – with many admitting that they would do whatever it takes to look good.

Some youngsters admit that they would go on a diet, take protein shakes or supplements or even resort to plastic surgery in order to change their appearance.

The findings, based on a poll of over 2,000 secondary school pupils, reveal the impact of social media – with teenagers saying they spend hours preparing to take a picture to post online and use editing tools to change the way they look.

Overall, nearly eight in 10 (79%) said the way they look is important to them, with 52% of those questioned saying they

regularly worry about their appearance, and just over a third (36%) saying they were willing to do whatever they needed to do to look good.

In addition, 57% said that they have dieted or would consider dieting to change their appearance – while a third (35%) have, or would be willing to take protein shakes or supplements. One in 10 said they have had, or would consider plastic surgery.

The report, published by the Be Real Campaign, also found that nearly two thirds (63%) of young people say they make sure they look as good as possible in the photos they put online – with girls more likely to say this than boys.

Some youngsters told researchers that they edited images before posting them, or had friends that spent time putting on make-up before they took a picture.

The findings also showed that three in 10 young people say they avoid taking part in

certain activities because they worry about how they look – this could involve sports lessons in school.

Denise Hatton, chief executive of the National Council of YMCAs in England and Wales, said: "The Be Real Campaign's research released today shows how harmful body image anxiety can be for secondary school pupils as young as 11 years old.

"We've found evidence of young people not only isolating themselves from activities, potentially causing long-term physical, or mental health difficulties, but also considering cosmetic surgery and extreme diets to improve how they believe they should look as a result of the body image 'ideals' they see in media and advertising," Denise Hatton said.

The research was undertaken by the YMCA with the poll conducted by EdComs. It questioned 2,018 UK young people aged 11 to 16.

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MELANOMA DEATH RATES EXPECTED TO FALL BY 2050 RESEARCHERS presenting at the 2017 European Cancer Congress predict that melanoma death rates will fall by 2050, according to a press release.

Peak deaths rates were observed in 2015 for Australian men and in 1990 for Australian women; in 2005 and 1995 for U.S. men and women, respectively; and around 2010 for both Swedish men and women.

Alice Koechlin of the International Prevention Research Institute, Lyon, France, said in the presentation that people who were at the highest risk for dying of melanoma were those born between 1900 and 1960, due to the effects of ultraviolet light being largely unknown and professionals advising on the benefits of sun exposure.

would be equal to those of around 2005: 846 men and 408 women. In the [United States], they would be equal to those of around 1990 for men with 3,646 deaths, and to 1980 for women with 1,876 deaths. In Sweden, they would be equal to those of around 2000: 231 men and 174 women. As time passes, melanoma deaths will become steadily rarer in people younger than 50 years, and after 2050, practically all melanoma deaths will occur in people over the age of 70.”

The rates predicted for 2050 would be twofold lower for Australia compared with peak death rates, two and a half to three times lower for U.S. men and women, and one and a half times lower than peak years for Sweden. The researchers predicted these numbers based on the assumption that no effective therapy exists It seems that Baby Boomers still have the highest incidents of skin cancer fatalities due for melanoma, according to the release.

While the actual number of deaths from to the poor education and extensive melanoma are expected to increase until 2030 “With an effective therapy, we would expect sunbathing in their younger years. to 2035 because of ageing populations, death to see decreases in the number of melanoma rates should continue to fall after that period. deaths from 2030,” Koechlin said. “In 2050, Reference: www.ecco-org.eu the numbers of melanoma deaths in Australia

DOES DAIRY REALLY CAUSE ACNE?

milk, can also promote inflammation, making your skin even worse. Plus, milk proteins like whey and casein, may also be to blame, although the exact process behind what's causing it isn't yet known, says Whitney Bowe, M.D., a Dermatologist in New York City.

ACNE is still a dreaded skin condition, but for a condition that affects so many people, there are still a lot of unknowns with it. One of the most controversial questions is, can what you eat or drink cause you to break out?

That's why whole milk might be the better choice than skim for your skin: Proteins like whey and casein are often added to skim milk to make it taste, less watery, says Dr. Bowe. But both whey and casein release a hormone similar to insulin called IGF-1, which is known to trigger breakouts. In fact, research has shown that bodybuilders and athletes who use whey supplements like shakes and protein bars can suffer from severe acne, she says. In fact, your workout can actually cause a bunch of annoying skin issues.

Dairy has been one of the most commonly discussed culprits in whether your diet can be to blame. But whether your love of cheese is directly causing your outbreak is still up for debate, as there are plenty of myths about what causes of pimples.

A growing volume of research suggests the link is there, though. That's because acne is an inflammatory condition, says Dermatologist, Joshua Zeichner, M.D, director of cosmetic and clinical research at Mount Sinai Hospital. Oil gets trapped inside your pores, clogging them up. This

allows bacteria to grow within the follicles, which causes inflammation. That inflammation produces the red bumps on your skin.

Cow's milk can cause inflammation, too, Dr. Zeichner says. The hormones in milk can react with the testosterone in your own body. This increases the production of sebum in your skin, the oily substance that clogs your pores.

It's a bit of double whammy: Not only does the bacteria living in your pores cause inflammation, but what you ingest, such as

But putting all dairy in this pimple-causing category might be a mistake: Milk and ice cream have been associated with acne, but yogurt and cheese don't seem to have the same type of effect, says Dr. Bowe. In fact, the probiotics in yogurt can actually help control your breakouts, she says. This is

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because probiotics are known to calm inflammation, she says, and the fermentation process results in lower levels of IGF-1 than what you would find in milk.

might be worth cutting dairy from your diet to see how your skin reacts. Sometimes it takes a month or longer to see any kind of impact on your skin, Dr. Bowe says.

As for cheese, that's still a mystery, Dr. Bowe says. Hard cheeses do have less lactose than milk does – making them a better choice for people with trouble digesting dairy – but there's no evidence to suggest that lactose content plays a role in breakouts. More research needs to be done to determine why cheese seems safer.

If it's too difficult to completely cut all dairy right off the bat, you can try a more gradual approach. Start by substituting your go-to milk with almond milk. Then, if the breakouts persist after a few months, you can try cutting out cheese to see if it makes more of a difference.

enough to cure your acne on its own – although it may help reduce your breakouts.

However, lots of other factors could be at play, like genetics, your skin-type, stress, sleep, and your skincare habits.

So if your breakouts are frequent and consistent, you need to bring in the tried-andtrue acne treatments, too. Using cleansers or creams with benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid while you're making your diet change is your best bet for clearer, smoother, skin, says Dr. Zeichner. If you're dealing with oily, Still, it's likely that a diet change isn't going to clogged pores, these products are a great Regardless, if you consistently break out after be the final solution for you, Dr. Bowe adds. place to start. you eat dairy-heavy foods, experts suggest it Removing dairy from your diet usually isn't Reference: www.medscope.com

NEW FINDINGS MAY IMPROVE TREATMENT OF INHERITED BREAST CANCER SCIENTISTS have identified some of the elusive downstream molecules that play a critical role in the development and progression of familial breast cancer. The research, published by Cell Press in the October 10th issue of the journal Molecular Cell, also identifies a compound found in grapes and red wine as an excellent candidate for treatment of some forms of breast cancer.

author Dr. Chu-Xia Deng from the Genetics of Development and Diseases Branch at the National Institutes of Health.

About 8% of breast cancer cases are caused by mutations in tumour suppressor genes, such as breast cancer associated gene-1 (BRCA1). BRCA1 is the most frequently mutated tumour suppressor gene found in inherited breast cancers and BRCA1 mutation carriers have a 50-80% risk of developing breast cancer by age 70.

Dr. Deng and colleagues were interested in investigating the relationship among BRCA1, SIRT1 and Survivin. SIRT1 is a protein and histone deacetylase involved in numerous critical cell processes including metabolism, DNA repair and programmed cell death, known as apoptosis. Although S I RT 1 h a s b e e n i m p l i c a t e d i n tumorigenesis, no concrete role in cancer initiation or progression has been identified.

Survivin is an apoptosis inhibitor that is dramatically elevated in many types of tumours. Research has suggested that Survivin may serve to maintain the tumour and promote growth.

"Although work with animal models of BRCA1 mutation has provided some insight into the many biological processes linked with BRCA1, very little is known about the downstream mediators of BRCA1 function in tumour suppression," says lead study

The researchers found that BRCA1 functioned as a tumour suppressor by maintaining SIRT1 expression, which in turn inhibited Survivin expression. When BRCA1 was not functioning properly, SIRT levels decreased and Survivin levels

increased, allowing BRCA1-deficient cells to overcome apoptosis and undergo malignant transformation. They went on to show that the compound resveratrol strongly inhibited BRCA1-mutant tumour growth in cultured cells and animal models.

Resveratrol is an important constituent of traditional Japanese and Chinese medicine that has recently been shown to inhibit some types of cancer by inducing apoptosis with very little associated toxicity. In the current paper, resveratrol enhanced SIRT1 activity, this leading to reduced Survivin expression and subsequent apoptosis of BRCA1 deficient cancer cells.

These findings identify SIRT1 and Survivin as downstream mediators of BRCA1regulated tumor suppression and identify resveratrol as a potent inhibitor of BRCA1mutant cancer cells. "Resveratrol may serve as an excellent compound for targeted therapy for BRCA1 associated breast cancers," says Dr. Deng.

Ref: www.sciencedaily.com

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nutritionalhealth

GUT HEALTH

and its relevance to skin disorders

by Gay Wardle

ALTHOUGH “flora” is commonly used in the medical community to describe the healthy community of bacteria living in and on the human body, consider this term more like slang — generally speaking, “flora” means plant life.

Although plant life does indeed play a role in maintaining health bacteria levels in the human body, the term “microbiota” is more appropriately used because it encompasses the entire community of microorganisms. These microorganisms include not only bacteria but also fungi and archaea.

We know the human gut is a natural habitat for a large and dynamic bacterial community. However developing studies suggest that a substantial part of these bacterial populations are still not known.

Our natural bacteria is mainly acquired at birth and during the first 12 months of life this bacteria permanently colonise the colon tract.

Natural bacteria flora is crucial to complete health. The bowel is a complex organ having four very important functions.

The role that these microbiota play in health has been largely unknown because science has been unable to research and classify the huge number of microorganisms living in the human body as well as the diverse roles they play. Some may be essential to health; some may be harmful. For example, the past 15 years has seen an incredible amount of research on gut bacteria.

As recently as 20 years ago, no one considered the colon a major player in overall health. Today, scientists from all over the world are making important discoveries every year on the incredible effects of maintaining a wellbalanced gut microbiota. In fact, the vast number of microbiota in the human body and the lack of knowledge surrounding this community lead researchers to refer to it as the forgotten organ.

1. Motility – necessary for transporting and mixing of food and intestinal, hepatic and pancreatic secretions.

2. Absorption – necessary for assimilating nutritive substances, vitamins, minerals, water, bile salts and drugs.

3. Immunologic function – has a very important role as a lymphoid organ by immunoglobulin and other immunomediators with local and systemic actions.

4. Hormonal secretion – by the synthesis of endocrine and neuroendocrine substances secreted by paracrine or autocrine pathways.

Researchers and physicians recently have come to understand the makeup of the colon bacteria to a remarkable degree. Microbiologists have been able to isolate and grow some 300-400 different bacteria from the colon, along with some viruses and yeasts – all entirely normal to find in the colon. In the past few years researchers have been able to use new techniques to analyse the DNA within all the colon's bacteria, an amazing feat. Still more amazing, it has been found that there are likely over 1,000 different types of bacteria growing in the colon, twice the number previously known. In addition to that, the total number of bacteria in the colon is measured to be many trillions, at least 10 times the number of cells in the entire body. It gives you pause when companies that sell probiotic bacteria products claim to have five or 10 billion bacteria in a pill, an incredibly small number compared to what is already in the colon.

Gay Wardle expands on this amazing topic and relates to recent discoveries show how gut health and a disturbed gut flora can be the underlying cause of certain skin conditions.

So you can see the gut flora has an effect on total health and wellbeing (the complete immune system and the endocrine system).

The disruption to the flora may happen in many ways – by taking medications and anitbiotics, digesting high GI foods, high sugar intake and poor hygiene there will bring changes to the gut. The changes we know about cause inflammation, poor digestion of foods, colon disease (Crohn`s disease), leaky bowl syndrome and imbalances to hormones. All of these conditions are caused by bad bacteria creating inflammation and will lead to other diseases in the body.

THE ROLE OF THE GUT IN SKIN HEALTH

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Often we come across skin disorders that baffle us and we are not sure what to do and what has caused these malfunctions that present as lesions on the skin.

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Epidemiological evidence confirms that there is a definite association between gut problems and skin disorders. In fact, studies confirm that rosacea, acne, eczema, dermatitis and vitilago to name a few, could be some of the skin disorders occurring if there is an over growth of bad bacteria in the small intestine.

One correlation between the gut and skin diseases seems to occur in celiac disease. The most common being dermatitis herpetiformis and psoriasis affecting 20-25% of clients/patients who have celiac disease.

Dermatitis herpetiformis a condition that presents as a chronic itch with symptoms of several symmetrical papulovesicular rashes. The rash evolves into a crusted lesions and is mainly found on the forearms, knees, buttocks wrists and scalp.

Erythema nodosum is another skin disorder associated with gut inflammation. This condition appears as red lumps and affects the subcutaneous fat which is caused by inflammation within the body.

The condition is normally restricted to the lower legs and is commonly found where there is Crohn`s disease, bowel disorders, celiac disease and gluten intolerances.

understand the cause of rosacea. Wouldn't these drugs create more imbalance to gut flora and wouldn't this cause more inflammation that will cause more aggravation to rosacea?

Studies show celiac disease, gluten intolerance, Crohn`s disease, Helicobacter pylori infection, small intestinal bacterial overgrowth and irritable bowel syndrome could have huge considerations towards rosacea. All of these conditions cause inflammation, compromising the immune system and upsetting the endocrine system.

Shouldn't we look at these things when treating rosacea before starting a course of antibiotics, which will cause more inflammation.

Gut tuneups and lymphatic drainage would and should be a much wiser choice of treatment. We are seeing more and more of this skin condition every day. It is time to delve deeper than the dermatox mite.

CONCLUSION

Intestinal malabsorption, such as celiac disease, gluten and lactose intolerances, Whipple's disease, small bowel carcinoid tumor, Crohn's disease, intestinal over-growth and intestinal lymphangioectasias is often associated with various skin and nail diseases. And there have been many hypotheses proposed regarding Pyodermagangrenosum (painful ulcers occurring on the body) is an the possible mechanisms involved. It is difficult to come to a auto-inflammatory disease that is mainly caused by inflammatory conclusion regarding the association between gastrointestinal bowel disease. The condition starts as blood blister, a pustule or a red diseases and skin disorders because data is not definitive as yet. lump, and often where there has been an injury. The cause is as a However, I am positive that through further studies there will be result of inflammation, which caused deficiency within the immune verification of the involvement of cutaneous areas in gastrointestinal system. diseases causing skin disorders.

Cutaneous vasculitis – is a group of disorders in which there are inflamed blood vessels which include capillaries and the lymphatic vessels. The condition is caused by a breakdown in the immune system. When the gut is not able to absorb nutrients it effects the body`s immunity, which can contribute to vasculitis. The lesions appear again on the lower limbs.

There seems to be enough supportive evidence to suggest that gut microbes, and the integrity of the gastrointestinal tract itself, are contributing factors to many skin disorders. This, together with science and supporting evidence behind the importance of a healthy cell membrane surely will give great scope into understanding skin conditions and disorders.

Discussion with prevalence to the association of gut health and acne has always been a huge topic. You have been told to avoid low nutritional food - don't eat fastfoods, don't drink cola drinks, don't eat chocolate, instead drink lots of water. But is there evidence that these foods have actually started the unforgiving acne disorder? Sure they may have aggravate the situation, but what causes that aggravation?

Evidence points to the fact that hormonal issues, stress and yes poor nutrition, as well as allergies can and will be aggravating pathways to acne. Once the internal inflammation has began the acne is very hard to control.

It is therefore advisable to ask more questions in your consultations about stress, irritable bowel, constipation and other gut irregularities.

There is now sufficient evidence that the skin could be considered the mirror of the gut!

References: Abenavoli, L., Proietti, I., Vonghia, L. (2008). Intestinal Malabsorption and Skin Disorders.

Bowe, W., Logan, A. (2011).Acne vulgaris, probiotics and the gutbrain-skin axis – back to the future?

Guarner, F. (2006). Enteric Flora in Health and Disease.

THE IMMUNE SYSTEM IS EFFECTED! It is also important to note that constipation has huge relevance to the pathogenesis of acne. There are studies showing significantly lower levels of fecal concentrations of good bacteria such as Lactobacillus and Bifidobacterium in cases of constipation as well as and intestinal permeability was significantly higher compared to healthy children/adults without constipation. Constant and chronic constipation alters the intestinal microflora causing inflammation, which will effect hormone secretions and the immune system. Depression and constipation are also a link to acne – depression – stress – inflammation – constipation are often contributing factors to acne.

The same goes for diarrhea. Yes we do have to ask about poos in our consultation!

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There is still no known cause for rosacea and still prescriptions are being written for roacutane and acne drugs. I have to ask WHY when they don`t really

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herbalmedicine

HOLY BASIL

and its amazing adaptogen properties

by Tina Viney I was recently diagnosed with adrenal fatigue and those who know me are not ! alcohol extract for stomach ulcers and eye diseases ! oil for insect bites at all surprised because of my overwhelming workload. The condition can be very debilitating and the crashes in energy, due to fluctuating cortisol levels throughout the day can be quite disruptive to work, not to mention There are numerous studies that support the use of holy basil for disheartening. While my doctor has me on a very good program, I could not human use and its therapeutic value. The nutritional value is also high as it contains: resist researching ways that I can help my body regain it energy levels and equilibrium as quickly as possible. One incredible herb that I discovered was ! vitamin A and C holy basil with its amazing adaptogen (anti-stress) properties, so I would like ! calcium to profile this for the benefit of others. ! zinc ! iron Holy basil (Ocimum tenuiflorum) isn't like the sweet basil in your ! chlorophyll mum's marinara. There are different types of basil. However, on careful examination, holy basil has distinctively different therapeutic REDUCE STRESS AND ANXIETY constituents. This green leafy plant, also known as Ocimum sanctum As we have already mentioned, holy basil is considered an and tulsi, is native to Southeast Asia. It has a history within Indian adaptogen. An adaptogen is natural substance that helps your body medicine as a treatment for many conditions, from eye diseases to adapt to stress and promotes mental balance. The concept of an ringworms. Holy basil now grows in many tropical climates across adaptogen is a holistic approach. But scientific research shows that the globe. Historically used in these areas as medicine because of its holy basil has pharmacological properties to help your mind cope widespread healing power, holy basil leaves are now regarded in most with many types of stress. The source of your stress can be chemical, countries as an adaptogen herb (anti-stress agents) and has been used physical, infectious or even emotional stress. widely to promote health throughout the entire body. It's a holistic approach to health and medicine that focuses on diet, detox and herbs In the case of physical stress, holy basil is known to increase endurance in animals. Animals who had holy basil leaf extracts and to balance the body. went through environment induced-stress scenarios showed From the leaves to the seed, holy basil is considered a tonic for the enhanced metabolism, improved swimming time, less tissue damage, body, mind and spirit. Different parts of the plant are recommended lower stress levels in loud environments. for different conditions, such as: Often times ignored, the â&#x20AC;&#x153;stress hormone,â&#x20AC;? as cortisol is commonly ! fresh flowers for bronchitis referred to, is responsible for an alarming number of diabetes mellitus ! leaves and seeds, with black pepper, for malaria cases throughout the world. Its far-reaching effects on the body can ! whole plant for diarrhoea, nausea and vomiting play havoc on learning, memory, lowered immune function, bone ! pills and ointments for eczema density, weight gain and heart disease.

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QUEEN OF HERBS Holy basil is considered India's “Queen of Herbs”, “The Incomparable One” and “Mother Medicine of Nature.” Many refer to it as the “elixir of life” because it's said to promote well-being and longevity. Ayurvedic practitioners recommend drinking holy basil as tea. And since it's caffeine-free, it's okay and even recommended to drink daily. The act of drinking tea can be ritualistic and as calming as yoga. It fosters clear thoughts, relaxation and a sense of wellbeing.

But if the basil's bitter and spicy flavour isn't your cup of tea, you can still get it as a pill or alcohol extract. I prefer to use organic holy basil in power form and I include it in my daily protein and berry smoothies, which I find quite fortifying and refreshing, especially in the hotter months.

STIMULATE AND VITALIZE YOUR BODY Holy basil is also high in antioxidants and helps your body detox.

Studies show that holy basil can protect your body against toxic chemicals. It may also prevent cancer by reducing the growth of cancerous cells.

PROTECT AGAINST INFECTION AND TREAT WOUNDS Extracts made from its leaves are thought to boost wound healing speed and strength. Holy basil is: ! antibacterial ! antiviral ! antifungal ! anti-inflammatory ! analgesic (a painkiller) Some people even use holy basil after surgery to heal and protect their wounds. Holy basil increases your wound's breaking strength, healing time and contraction. Breaking strength refers to how much pressure or weight a wound can take before it breaks. Furthermore, research shows that holy basil may work against infections and wounds like: ! mouth ulcers ! keloids ! raised scars ! acne If you have prediabetes, or type 2 diabetes, holy basil can help reduce your blood sugar. Animal and human trials have shown that holy basil can help prevent symptoms of diabetes such as: ! weight gain ! hyperinsulinemia, or excess insulin in the blood

In 2015 this course was conducted face-to-face however, there were numerous expressions of interest for the course to be made available through distance learning. We are pleased to offer the on-line version of it.

PART 1: INTRODUCTION TO THE SAFE USE OF TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS FOR COSMETIC PURPOSES The course is delivered by Compound Pharmacist Chris Testa, who is the owner and manager of Tugun Compounding Pharmacy, on the Gold Coast. Chris is also a highly respected lecturer on the topic of pharmaceutical compounding and the regulatory aspects of compounding which he delivers at the School of Pharmacy, Griffith University.

Learning Objectives include:

! An historical perspective ! A regulatory overview ! How topical anaesthetics work ! Different types of anaesthetics ! How topical anaesthetics are absorbed and metabolised ! Medication, supplements and !

medical conditions that affect the use of topical anaesthetics Introduction to the advanced training course

Chris Testa B. Bus., B. Pharm.

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This course will qualify for Continued Education Points towards the new registration – APAN Registered Aesthetics Practitioner.

ACTITIO PR N S

S ER

LOWER YOUR BLOOD SUGAR

APAN is working closely with government regulatory bodies supporting the need for regulatory reform that better suits the aesthetics industry. While every practitioner must abide by their State regulatory requirements, this course can be of value to you to assist you in gaining a more in depth understanding of topical anaesthetics, their mechanism, safety considerations and contraindications.

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According to the Journal of Ayurveda and Integrative Medicine, holy basil has anti-depressant and anti-anxiety properties comparable to diazepam and anti-depressant drugs. One study found that people who took 500 milligrams of holy basil extract each day felt less anxious, stressed and depressed. People also felt more social.

Now available through distance learning Understanding anaesthetics is paramount to the comfort of our clients or patients and the medium to ensure this is topical anaesthetics. While there are regulatory restrictions in the use of topical anaesthetics it is imperative that every practitioner who delivers treatments such as skin needling, cosmetic tattoo, or uses devices such as fraxel or various levels of lasers gains a thorough scientific understanding of the different anaesthetics included in numbing creams, how they are metabolised in the body and ways to ensure the safety of their use on a case-by-case basis.

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Human and animal studies saw reduced: ! stress ! sexual problems ! sleep problems ! forgetfulness ! exhaustion

APAN Accredited TOPICAL ANAESTHETICS Course

STHETI AE C

Elevated cortisol levels are so dangerous that Psychology Today refers to cortisol as “Public Enemy #1”! Another benefit from lower cortisol is supplementing with holy basil has been found to reduce anxiety and emotional stress. A study published in the journal Die Pharmazie (German for “The Pharmacy”) confirmed how holy basil has the ability to regulate serum cortisol levels.

A DV To register please visit E I S O RY N www.apanetwork.com and complete a Online Registration Form.

Aesthetic Practitioners Advisory Network Email: info@apanetwork.com | Phone: 07 5593 0360 APJ 111

APAN

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high cholesterol insulin resistance hypertension

In these studies, individuals who received holy basil extract saw a 24 per cent decrease in blood sugar after 30 days. Talk to your doctor before adding holy basil to your diet. If you're already taking medications to control blood sugar, it may lower your blood sugar levels even more.

LOWER YOUR CHOLESTEROL Since holy basil targets metabolic stress, it can also help with weight loss and cholesterol levels (Adrenal fatigue with its fluctuating cortisol levels makes it very difficult to lose weight and very easy to gain it). Animal studies saw significant changes in rabbits' fat molecules when they ate fresh holy basil leaves. They had lower “bad” cholesterol (LDLcholesterol) and higher “good” cholesterol (HDL-cholesterol).

One study found that the oil in holy basil (eugenol) lowers stressinduced cholesterol levels. There was a reduction of total cholesterol in the kidney, liver, or heart in rats with and without diabetes after they ate holy basil leaf powder.

EASE INFLAMMATION AND JOINT PAIN Imagine being able to tackle stress, anxiety and inflammation with a relaxing cup of tea. As an adaptogen with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, holy basil provides all of these benefits. It can even help people with arthritis or fibromyalgia.

PROTECT YOUR STOMACH Holy basil can counteract the effects of stress-induced ulcers. It naturally increases your stomach's defence by decreasing stomach acid, increasing mucus secretion, increasing mucus cells and extending the life of mucus cells. Many drugs for peptic ulcers have side effects and can cause discomfort in some people. Holy basil may be a preferred alternative. Studies showed that 200mg of holy basil extract reduced both the number and index of ulcers significantly in two-thirds of the animals.

ADDING HOLY BASIL TO YOUR DIET Supplements of holy basil extract are available in pill or capsule form.

The suggested dosage ranges from 300mg to 2,000mg per day for general preventative purposes. When used as a treatment, the recommended dosage is 600mg to 1,800mg take in multiple doses throughout the day.

You can also make holy basil tea using the leaves or dried leaf powder.

The herb can also be used to make freshly brewed tea by placing 2-3 teaspoons of holy basil in a cup of boiling water and letting it steep for 5-6 minutes. The leaves are also commonly used in cooking, though some people eat the leaves raw. Holy basil tastes spicy and bitter.

ACNE Widely used for skincare, a team of researchers from Thailand conducted a study to determine the efficacy of holy basil essential oils against bacteria that cause acne. Essentially testing its antimicrobial capability, they discovered that a 3 per cent concentration of holy basil oil is most effective against bacteria that cause acne.

Interestingly, it was also noted that the primary compound of holy basil oil is eugenol, the active ingredient in the powerful antimicrobial clove oil. One of clove oils uses and benefits is it's widely believed to cure many skin disorders.

When implementing tulsi for natural acne treatment, consider using unrefined virgin coconut oil as a carrier because when melted, it's more viscous and absorbs into the skin better than other oils.

SAFE USE Always make sure to speak with your doctor before incorporating holy basil or any other supplement into your diet. Look for organic variety as holy basil is also grown in polluted areas that may contain twice the toxicity. No negative side effects have been reported during human clinical trials. However, you should avoid holy basil if you're lactating, pregnant or trying to conceive. Studies have shown that holy basil may affect fertility and stimulate uterine contractions.

This is an amazing herb and from my experience it is one that I can highly recommend.

References: Manikandan P, et al. Ocimum sanctum Linn. (Holy Basil) ethanolic leaf extract protects against 7, 12-dimethylbenz(a)anthrace neinduced genotoxicity, oxidative stress, and imbalance in xenobioticmetabolizing enzymes. J Med Food 2007; 10(3):495-502.

Vivoch J, et al. Evaluation of in vitro antimicrobial activity of Thai basil oils and their micro-emulsion formulas against Propionibacterium acnes. Int Journal of Cosmet Sci 2006; 28(2): 12533 .

Agrawal P, et al. Randomized placebo-controlled, single blind trial of holy basil leaves in patients with noninsulin-dependent diabetes mellitus. Int J Clin Pharmacol Ther 1996; 34(9):406-9.

Vats V, et al. Evaluation of antihyperglycemic and hypoglycemic effect of Trigonella foenum graecum Linn, Ocimum sanctum Linn and Pterocarpus marsupium Linn in normal and alloxanized diabetic rats. J Ethanopharmacol 2002; 79:95–100.

Rai V, et al. Effect of tulsi (Ocimum sanctum) leaf powder supplementation on blood sugar levels, serum lipids and tissue lipid in diabetic rats. Plant foods Hum Nutr 1997; 50:9–16.

Chandra A, et al. Effect of Indian herbal hypoglycemic agents on antioxidant capacity and trace elements content in diabetic rats. J Med Food 2008; 11:506–12.

Bergland C. Cortisol: why “the stress hormone” is public enemy no.

1. Psychology Today 2013 [Internet]. Available at: h t t p : / / w w w. p s y c h o l o g y t o d a y. c o m / b l o g / t h e - a t h l e t e s way/201301/cortisol-why-the-stress-hormone-is-public-enemy-no1

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businessstrategies

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS FOR YOUR PRACTICE

by Trish Hammond

WE live in a “Social Media Era.” That means every business you can email or send a survey to your target audience and ask them! should have one or more social media channels because a “Which social media platforms do you use regularly to get information?” or “Which social media channel do you prefer to “business without social media is not a business.” engage and connect with?” or “What's your favourite social media

That's how it is these days, and your practice is your business, so channel, and why?” you definitely need social media to boost business, get your name out there and be known, which enables you to quickly and easily It is also important to understand the ultimate objective of your practice in using these social media channels. Is it for engagement, reach out to your prospective patients.

When starting, you can begin with just one or even two social channels. Make them something that you can accommodate, master, and manage relatively easy (eg Facebook and Instagram).

If you're not sure where to start or which social media channel to start with, choose between the top social channels used today (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Youtube, Pinterest, Google Plus and Linkedin) and learn how each of them work; get your knowledge up to date. As you start to master the use of each social channel you can then start to work out which one’s really match the 'taste and feel' of your business and the clients you want to attract.

lead generation, growing your profile or brand, increasing your mailing list, increasing sales? You'll want to know your specific goal so you can focus on how to use your chosen platform effectively, which hopefully we do to increase the bottom line.

Trish Hammond is director of Plastic Surgery Hub and an Expert Blogger who specialises in aesthetics content. She was also honoured in 2015 as the winner of the BEST AESTHETICS BLOGGER AWARD at My Face My Body global aesthetics awards. If you would like to engage an expert to help you with your blogging needs please contact Trish on 0429 264 811 or email info@plasticsurgeryhub.com.au. Her website is www.plasticsurgeryhub.com.au.

PLASTIC SURGERY HUB ALSO PROVIDE ADDITIONAL

Some of the things you can ask yourself when choosing the right SERVICES INCLUDING: social media channels for your practice include:

! ! ! ! ! !

Do I need Facebook?

Is it beneficial for my practice?

Does this fit my practice's needs?

Is this something I can accommodate?

How many social media channels do I need?

Does this social media channel meet the marketing strategies that my practice needs?

!

Which social media platform is the one mostly used by other businesses like mine?

Which social media channel can do everything for me?

Which social media channels do people use most?

! !

! ! ! ! ! ! ! !

Press Releases

Social Media Setup and/or Management Blog Submissions Vlogs (video blogs) Article Submission / Article Writing Directory Submissions Website Optimisation (individualised and specific) Website Creation (for you to edit and update as required)

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APJ 113

essentialoils

REMEDIES FOR IMPROVING SAGGING SKIN AFTER WEIGHT LOSS AND FOR AGEING SKIN

by Tina Viney IN today's hi-tech environment we have many technologies that can assist us in reversing the effects of ageing and, in particular, loss of tissue elasticity, whether on the face or body. Regardless as to what technology you are using, the power of synergy can offer you accelerated results. New research on aromatherapy oils is gaining momentum. There is now evidence that they can offer noteworthy treatment outcomes, whether used as stand-alone or adjunct therapies. Incorporated as a gentle yet powerful addition to your treatment protocols, scientifically-validated essential oils can offer amazing results.

difficult to "shrink into". Loose skin is normal when weight loss exceeds 20 kilos. At this point I would like to add that if you are guiding, or assisting your patient, or client to lose weight, recommend the gradual approach with the addition of exercise and body massage that incorporates proven essential oils. In that way you will support the body to regain its tone as the extra weight is shed. Also medical diets using peptides such as hCG target organ or visceral fat rather than the fat directly under the skin in this way the body loses volume without excessive sagging.

In this article I want us to explore tissue firming ingredients that can be added to your treatment protocols. In particular, we will look at solutions of improving sagging skin after weight loss. These solutions can be included in a salon treatment program as well as an effective blend for home use.

Additionally, I will also present some of the best oils for facial skin-toning and age-management.

A large reduction in weight may result in sagging skin. The use of technologies such as radio-frequency. Deep skin tightening can also be achieved with non-ablative Fractional Laser Resurfacing.

Conventional treatments such as surgery to remove excess skin are drastic and harsh and should be considered as a last resort. A more natural approach combining massage with aromatherapy oils can improve blood flow and help skin elasticity. When combined with technologies they can provide enhanced results with substantially better skin firming treatment outcomes.

WEIGHT LOSS SKIN MANAGEMENT Let's look at the weight loss issue. The human body is designed to cope with enormous weight gain by literally producing more skin cells. When this extra weight is lost, especially if weight loss is rapid, there may be excess skin which sags, looks unsightly and can be

SKIN MASSAGE WITH AROMATHERAPY OILS Several essential oils can offer skin toning benefits. They can be used individually or mixed together as a synergistic blend. You can make a

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large batch of the oil, or you can mix up a small batch as needed. When making a large batch, use significantly more oil than with on-demand batches. For example, a 50ml bottle of base oil would need at least 50 drops of essential oil, either alone or as part of a blend for a therapeutic effect.

Conversely, a two-tablespoons on-demand portion would use as few as five drops. Consider adding other elements, such as vitamin E oil or glycerine, for extra moisturising.

APPLICATION As a salon treatment, consider creating your own blend using the following oils: ROSEMARY OIL: This oil has astringent properties and is said to improve blood flow and skin elasticity. Blend with a carrier oil such as sweet almond or jojoba.

FRANKINCENSE OIL: This oil is said to slow down ageing and delay the signs of sagging skin. Blend three drops of frankincense oil with two drops each of patchouli and geranium essential oil. Add around 20 drops of jojoba to create a soothing skin serum.

ROSEHIP OIL: Rosehip oil is extracted from Rosa rubiginosa and helps in skin toning as it is rich in vitamin C which aids in collagen formation and is said to be an excellent aid in tissue regeneration.

Applied topically it has a moisturising, softening effect on the skin.

Rosehip oil is not an essential, or volatile oil and as such it may be used directly on the skin without dilution first. However, the oil can increase skin phototoxicity and individuals using this oil should avoid excessive sun exposure.

CARROT SEED OIL: This oil is high in beta-carotene and vitamin A. Carrot seed oil promotes detoxification and can assist with collagen formation. Blend with a carrier oil such as sweet almond oil before use. It helps to make skin luminous and healthy looking.

Other proven oils include clary sage, chamomile and neroli in addition to lavender and patchouli. You can blend up to 30-50 drops of essential oils in a 50ml carrier oil glass bottle. You should use no more than 20ml of the blend during a full body massage and if you are treating only the hands and legs use 10-15ml of the blend. It is very important that the blend is not removed from the body for at least two hours allowing the essential oils to penetrate the skin. As you are aware, therapeutic-grade essentials oils can be absorbed into the bloodstream and it is pointless applying them and washing them off before they can deliver their benefits. For this reason don't saturate the body with two much oil. There is no need to over-lubricate the skin, only use sufficient oil to deliver firm massage movement with no oil residue once completed.

Home use: Apply the oil in the evening before bed and let it sit overnight. Applying it at night serves two purposes. First, the bedding warms the body and helps the oils penetrate better. Second, the body repairs during sleep and will get the most benefit from therapeutic treatments. Apply the oil to clean skin and, if necessary, wash the area beforehand with a mild exfoliating scrub or a dry brush scrub. Apply the oil in a circular motion. For body-firming oils, wear comfortable, but breathable pyjamas.

SKIN BRUSHING Skin brushing has been an anti-ageing â&#x20AC;&#x153;secretâ&#x20AC;? in Europe for years. It helps with tightening and toning of skin so you don't have saggy, loose skin and also minimising the accumulation of cellulite. As an elimination organ the skin can benefit from skin brushing in helping it to release toxins, while stimulating blood flow and improving oxygen and nutrients to the skin.

Use a natural fibre brush, brush the body in the direction of the lymphatic flow to assist also with improving detoxification. The dryer the body the better as this will allow for the removal of dead skin cells more readily, so it is better to perform this before showering.

When you begin brushing, it may be a little hard on your skin. Brush as though you were brushing butterfly wings. Yes, that light a touch.

Don't scrub, just stroke! This procedure, when performed daily, should only take approximately seven minutes.

Body-brushing is very effective before and after a workout and before a bath. On completion, apply an essential oil formula.

FACE TONING ESSENTIAL OILS When addressing facial skin there are numerous technologies that tighten skin as well as many serums and skincare formulations.

When looking at essential oils consider those that also support collagen production and one of the best oils for that is lemon essential oil.

LEMON: Did you know that lemon essential oil also brightens the skin? What makes lemon one of the best essential oils for collagen production is its super high vitamin C content. If lemons themselves are touted as vitamin C-rich foods then how about the essential oil of lemon? That's a lot of vitamin C! You already know that topical vitamin C boosts collagen production, so using lemon essential oil can also fortify collagen production.

To use, dilute about 2-3 drops of lemon essential oil in 3 tbsp carrier oil of choice or liquid coconut oil. Now place just three drops of this on your palms rub together and gently massage onto your face. Use this treatment only at night because lemon essential oil is photosensitive and should not be worn when going out in the sun.

EVENING PRIMROSE OIL: This oil is an extremely rich source of omega 6 fatty acid Gamma Linolenic Acid (GLA). Getting enough GLA is crucial to support overall hormonal function within the body and is also beneficial when applied topically. Blend a few drops of primrose oil with an equal quantity of neroli essential oil. This is especially good for sagging facial skin. Massage the face and neck gently and regularly.

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JOJOBA OIL: This is perhaps one of the most hydrating oils in the world and it does so in a surprisingly non-oily fashion. Jojoba oil contains many beneficial ingredients, including vitamin E, vitamin B complex, silicon, chromium, copper and zinc. It also can address the average person's lack of iodine-rich foods as it has a very high percentage of iodine at 82 per cent - in part, iodine gives jojoba oil its power to heal.

Our sebaceous glands are microscopic glands in our skin that secrete the oily or waxy matter we know as sebum. The texture and use of

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sebum is very similar to jojoba oil, so as we age our sebaceous glands produce less sebum, which is why we get dry skin and hair – it can even lead to dandruff or itchy scalp.

A jojoba oil benefit is that it plays the role of sebum and moisturises our skin and hair when our body stops doing it naturally. On the other hand, too much sebum, which happens when hormone levels are high, can result in oily skin and acne. Jojoba oil removes sticky build up or excess oil, too; it keeps your oil levels balanced. That makes it a strong natural treatment for eczema, as well as well as for acne, plus well-suited for other dry-skin conditions.

As an emollient, jojoba oil moisturises our skin and prevents irritations, or scaly and rough patches. Dry skin is caused by a loss of water in the upper layer of the skin. Jojoba oil works by forming an oily layer on the top of the skin that traps water in the skin. It works on the face, neck, hands, feet and hair. You can use it anywhere on the body because it's completely natural and contains no chemicals that lead to an allergic reaction.

Jojoba oil is non-comedogenic, so it doesn't clog pores. As it is rich in iodine it helps fight harmful bacteria growth that leads to breakouts.

The antioxidants present in jojoba oil soothe fine lines, wrinkles and naturally slow down other signs of ageing. Jojoba oil can also accelerate the wound-healing process, as indicated in a study done at the Department of Environment and Life Sciences in Italy. The results proved that jojoba oil speeds up wound closures and stimulates collagen synthesis.

A 2012 study conducted in Germany examined jojoba oil’s ability to reduce skin lesions and improve overall skin condition for 194 participants. They applied clay masks with jojoba oil to their faces two to three times per week and 54 per cent of the participants reported that skin lesions were reduced significantly after six weeks of using jojoba oil.

POMEGRANATE SEED OIL: Pomegranate seed oil – part of a potent natural treatments for skin cancer. In particular, pomegranates are associated with anti-ageing, and the most powerful form of pomegranate for anti-ageing is its oil. You will notice there's a dark red colour with pomegranate oil, which are due to bioflavonoids. That dark colour also protects your skin from sun damage. If you ever go outside and get sunburn, put pomegranate seed oil on your skin — it has a natural SPF and can actually be used as a natural sunblock and sunscreen.

FRANKINCENSE OIL: We have mention Frankincense for body toning, but it is also an excellent oil for the face. So what is Frankincense oil good for? According to several studies it can actually reduce the appearance of sunspots and age spots. If you have uneven colour on your skin, some whiteness in some areas, any splotchiness, frankincense oil is the number one ingredient that can help even out skin tone and help get rid of sunspots and age spots.

Frankincense essential oil is a powerful astringent, and helps to protect skin cells. It can be used to help reduce acne blemishes, the appearance of large pores and wrinkles. The oil can be used anywhere where the skin becomes saggy such as the abdomen, jowls or under the eyes. Mix six drops of oil to one ounce of an unscented oil like jojoba oil and apply it directly to the skin.

Frankincense has the ability to strengthen the skin’s resillience and improve its tone, elasticity, defence mechanisms against bacteria or blemishes, and appearance as someone ages. Studies have shown that it helps tone and lift skin, reduces appearance of scars and acne and heals wounds. It can also be beneficial for fading of stretch marks, surgery scars or marks associated with pregnancy, and for healing dry or cracked skin.

LAVENDER OIL: I particularly like French Lavender and can highly recommend it for skin conditions such as burns and cuts, but also because it specifically targets your skin, gets it in a healing state and improves cellular communication within the skin cells.

Healthy skin requires the benefits of antioxidants to successfully fight free radical damage and according to research, lavender essential oil helps your body produce three of the most powerful antioxidants, glutathione, catalase and superoxide dismutase.

Most likely due to its antimicrobial and antioxidant characteristics, lavender essential mixed with benefit-rich aloe vera, or coconut oil has profound benefits on your skin. Just 10 drops per 30ml of aloe vera or oil will sooth the worst sunburn and bring rapid healing to dry skin, minor cuts and irritations. For age spots mix lavender and frankincense essential oils in a carrier and apply in the evening. This blend will also provide great results with fatigued, dry skin that is prone to pigmentation.

GERANIUM OIL: With a beautiful feminine scent, geranium essential oil is among the top oils for women's health. It helps balance hormones, solve menstrual troubles and perk up skin! When applied topically, it not only increases collagen production but also promotes cell turnover, as well as cell regeneration.

CALENDULA OIL: Derived from the fiery bright marigold flowers, calendula essential oil has powerful anti-inflammatory properties that heal skin. What makes it one of the excellent essential oils for collagen production is its rich flavonoid content, which stimulates cell regeneration as well as promotes healing and repair of damaged skin cells.

NEROLI OIL: This essential oil is extracted from the sweet smelling neroli flowers, also known as orange blossom. The exquisite scented neroli essential oil is a star when it comes to helping fade stretch marks and soothing sensitive skin – but it's also excellent for delaying ageing! In addition to tightening droopy skin, it helps balance sebum and smooth fine lines. Its high vitamin C content boosts collagen production as well as regenerates skin cells. Neroli is also excellent for healing depression and increasing confidence.

CONCLUSION With the support of essential oils you can further customise your treatment plan to include a results-driven treatment outcome that can also enhance the client’s experience.

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REFERENCES Jager W, Buchbauer G, Jirovetz L, Fritzer M. Percutaneous absorption of lavender oil from a massage oil. J Soc Cosmet Chem.

1992;43(1):49-54. http://www.ageless.co.za/herb-rosehip.htm https://draxe.com/homemade-anti-aging-serum/

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businessstrategies

HOW TO OVERCOME PROCRASTINATION Procrastination robs you of your productivity and hurts your credibility.

Stop putting off the inevitable and get it out of the way with these 10 tips for pushing past procrastination.

By Tina Viney I don't know about you, but I am often frustrated and wrestle with tasks I hate to do. Women as a rule are feelers and when something makes us uncomfortable we tend to leave it in the "too head basket". The problem with leaving uncomfortable things until last is that they can damage your sense of peace and unduly influence your moods and even your conduct. I therefore have a policy of dealing with things I hate first to get them out of the way.

The other day I had a call from one of our members who was concerned with changes in attitude she was observing with a staff member. Their change of behaviour made her feel uncomfortable because she was observing a move towards self-centeredness and a feeling of superiority by starting to compare herself to other staff members.

These were indeed disturbing observations. However, this staff member was also highly charismatic and competent with her work, so she was finding herself wrestling with how to address it.

She ended up reaching out to us for an objective opinion and we were able to assist her in a non-threatening professional approach.

We also recommended that she implement our latest HR Policies and Procedures manual that we have for the benefit of our members. The strategy was delivered, professionally and it was

able to address the attitude issue in a non-threatening way so that the staff member was able to clearly understand the ethics of the business and the conduct expectations that would be considered decisive in the workplace. if left unchecked.

If you find yourself struggling with procrastination in avoiding tasks that are daunting or unpleasant, here are some useful points that may help you: 1. Identify the challenge Write down the specific task you've been putting off. For example, "I have to convert all of my client contacts and notes into the new file-sharing software system and learn how to navigate its tools and folders." Writing down the challenge helps you focus on it. Then give it a day and time that you will dedicate to it.

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2. Pinpoint the underlying emotions This step helps you see the act of dragging your heels for what it truly is: an emotional reaction. What's preventing you from diving in to this task? It's typically one or more of three core emotions.

Perhaps, to use the above example, you're intimidated by all the new functions you'll have to learn (fear). Or you're resentful about having to change when the old system worked perfectly well

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(anger). Or you're frustrated that you're just not tech savvy "I'll never be able to learn all this," you might say to yourself, "I (sadness). Overcoming these emotions with a decisive action can do this" or "If others can learn this, so can I." That's a plain plan will help you achieve breakthrough. and simple truth. To neutralise your frustration at having to do this task, you might say, "I'm doing this because it will help bring 3. Express and release the emotions order and peace to the workplace" or "life will become so Take some time in private to express those emotions much easier when I master this technology”. constructively. By giving yourself permission to express your emotions to a trusted friend, business coach or even a consultant at 6. Break the task into small, doable steps APAN will allow you to release those emotions that are holding You've envisioned the goal, dealt with what's been holding you you back and making you feel stuck. It's like letting steam out of a back, and fixed your destructive thinking. Completing the task pressure cooker. Sharing the load with another trusted person will requires deciding when you'll get started and figuring out a doable allow you to often identify and overcome the fear or frustration step-by-step game plan. Write it down, schedule it and commit to and identify a logical solution that can put an end to all the painful it. Then go on a mental journey, plotting out each part of the task, including details such as who you will talk with and what about, emotions. where and when you'll be working and how long you expect each 4. Define your goal part to take.

Good planning is the foundation of success for mostly any project. It's helpful to write it down so you have it for ready 7. Be ready for roadblocks reference. Start by getting clear on your goal. Your goal is your Once you've created a game plan, step back and imagine beacon to keep you on track in treacherous waters. For example, challenges and obstacles that are likely to pop up along the way.

"I want to get good at this new software so it's a useful tool, not an For example, other projects with shorter deadlines might land on impediment to my progress." Having a clear and precise idea of your desk. How will you tackle such challenges in order to keep moving forward with the big task at hand? For every such your goal will keep you on track and motivated. scenario, have a tactic ready for sticking to your original plan. You 5. Neutralise sabotaging chatter with "truths" may also want to find a mentor or supporter with whom you can Identify sabotaging thoughts that are hanging in the wings, ready consult on a regular basis. to pounce in a weak moment, then come up with a couple of truths to contradict them. For example, if you continually tell yourself 8. Take the leap With all this preparation, it's time to tackle the task you've put off.

Before you do, acknowledge your emotions – whether it's anger, fear or sadness. Take just a minute or two and release the pent-up emotion in a physical and constructive way. Without the emotional energy dragging you down, you'll feel prepared to take the leap and be amazed how easy it is as you just focus on one step at a time.

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9. Fight your resistance As you move through the task, you're likely to meet with resistance in the form of excuses, bad moods and discouragement. Meet resistance with tenacity and stubbornness and continue to deal with any emotions that surface. Say to yourself, "I can do this. I'll feel better when I handle this."

Say it over and over until it's set in your mind. Any time you feel discouraged or are tempted to procrastinate, refocus on the goal.

10. Focus on the upside Getting through a daunting task is incredibly satisfying. Praise each little step along the way. Remind yourself at every step that you'll feel incredibly virtuous when you get the task off your plate once and for all. Accomplishing what you're avoiding will simplify your work life. You'll feel more energetic. You'll sleep better at night.

Connect with APAN and let your voice be heard – gain insider knowledge, have fun, network, stay up-to-date with the events, news and the latest industry insights via our professional online community – find us: APAN.page | @apanetwork apanetwork.com | @apanetwork | http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page

This year I have introduced a set of daily confessions which I speak out each morning. They are positive affirmations and they really help to set the mood for the day. It only take me 3-5 minutes to dedicate to them and they are excellent in creating a positive mindset before I get to the office.

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If you are a regular on our APAN Facebook page (APAN.page) I have also introduced a serious of motivational quotes called START THE DAY WITH A GOOD THOUGHT. I use these to motivate myself first, and hopefully help to make the day of others just that little bit easier. Check them out.

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nutritionresearch

HOW ZINC IS IMPORTANT FOR YOUR SKIN AND HEALTH

By Tina Viney

WE know that nutrition plays a important role in skin and age management.

Whether available through the food we eat or through supplements, it pays to know how best to support and skin and body. In this article we look at the allimportant mineral zinc and the benefits of it internal faction as well as its topical application for skin healing and protection.

Zinc, which is actually a type of metal, is an essential trace element that is needed in small amounts every day in order to maintain health and perform important functions.

Zinc benefits the body in many ways. It helps with hormone production, growth and in supporting health and repair of tissues, improves immunity and facilitates digestion. Benefits also include its ability to act as an anti-inflammatory agent, therefore it may have significant therapeutic benefits for several common, chronic diseases like fighting cancer or reversing heart disease as well in skin healing.

Zinc is actually present within all bodily tissue and needed for healthy cell division. It acts like an antioxidant within the body, fighting freeradical damage and slow the ageing process. Because of Zinc's impact on hormonal balance, even a small zinc deficiency can result in an increased risk for infertility or diabetes.

According to researchers at the Department of Dermatology at the University of California, zinc plays an essential role in numerous biochemical pathways: organ systems, including the integumentary, gastrointestinal, central nervous system, immune, skeletal and

reproductive systems. Research confirms that zinc deficiency results in dysfunction of both humoral and cell-mediated immunity and increases the susceptibility to infection.

Without enough zinc in your diet, it's possible to experience negative reactions like frequently getting sick, feeling like you're always tired and run down, poor concentration, stunted growth and the inability to heal wounds.

HOW COMMON IS ZINC DEFICIENCY? “We don't know exactly how common zinc deficiency is because it's very difficult to measure people’s zinc status”, said Samir Samman, Associate Professor of Human Nutrition at the University of Sydney.

“But we know that zinc intakes are low.” This is partly because people are eating less zinc-rich foods, such as red meat and seafood, and partly because food-processing methods that make plant-based zinc more readily absorbed by the body – such as germination, soaking and fermentation – are not commonly used in Australian households.

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HOW DO I KNOW IF I AM DEFICIENT? “In Australia, we don't see 'overt' symptoms of zinc deficiency very often” says Assoc Prof Samman. “However, borderline symptoms are quite common. These are sometimes difficult to pin down as a zinc deficiency. There are many tests available to detect a zinc deficiency, including taste tests, blood tests, hair tests, urine tests and measuring certain enzymes. A blood test may be the most reliable, but most of these tests are only useful if you have a severe deficiency,

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Additionally, none of them are conclusive, which makes diagnosis quite difficult.”

The most common signs and symptoms associated with zinc deficiency include: ! Changes in appetite, including food cravings for salty or sweet foods ! Changes in ability to taste and smell ! Weight gain or loss ! Hair loss ! Digestive problems, including diarrhoea ! Chronic fatigue syndrome ! Infertility ! Hormonal problems, including worsened PMS or menopause symptoms ! Low immunity ! Poor concentration and memory ! Slowed ability to heal wounds, skin infections or irritation ! Nerve dysfunction

WHAT HAPPENS IF IT'S LEFT UNCHECKED? “Zinc is involved in many different functions in the body. We know it's connected with hundreds of different enzymes involved in metabolism, it's involved in interacting with DNA and it's important for the cells to function. So a zinc deficiency can be quite serious”, says Assoc Prof Samman. “Long-term deficiencies can lead to decreased immune function, increased susceptibility to respiratory and gastrointestinal infections (like pneumonia and infective diarrhoea), stunted growth in children and poor healing of wounds.”

BOOST YOUR INTAKE If you eat meat, increase your intake of lean red meat, dairy foods and seafood. If you don't eat animal products, it's really important to break down the components in plant foods that prevent zinc from being absorbed by the body. Soaking and sprouting legumes and nuts or choosing plant-based foods that have been fermented (e.g. sourdough bread which has undergone a fermentation process) also helps your body absorb zinc. As zinc is readily found in meat and fish it is not uncommon for vegetarians to be zinc deficient. You may also want to consider supplementation. The recommended daily intake is as follows: Men 14yrs +: 14mg Women 19+: 8mg Pregnant: 10–11mg Lactating: 11–12mg However, if you consume more than 40mg/day (from food and supplements) this can result in adverse effects, so consult your doctor before taking them.

FOODS HIGH IN ZINC INCLUDE: Oysters, beef, spinach, pork, pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, lentils, chickpeas, chicken, cheese, dark chocolate/cacao, oatmeal and milk.

ZINC FIGHTS OFF DEPRESSION In a 2013 review on the role of zinc in major depression, neuroscientists describe how zinc-containing neurons regulate the brain and body's response to stress. Low levels of zinc and zinc deficiency are linked to higher levels of depression. A recent study found that patients receiving a zinc supplement in combination with antidepressant therapy had significantly reduced depressive symptoms compared with those receiving antidepressants alone.

ZINC AND SKIN HEALTH Several studies have confirm the benefit of skin in wound healing and in helping acne lesions. Here is just a brief summary of ways that zinc can assist in skin conditions:

ACNE Several studies confirm the benefit of zinc in reducing inflammation in acne lesions. In a Swedish dermatological study, doctors found that the severity of acne lesions decreased from 100 percent to 15 percent in patients receiving 12 weeks of treatment with zinc sulfate (taken orally).

Used topically as zinc oxide included in lotions and creams it delivers effective skin astringent properties. You can apply zinc oxide to keep excess oils from forming on the surface and this is why it is sometimes included in acne treatment formulations. It is believed to reduce the appearance of blemishes and reduce skin irritation and inflammation, reducing the number and severity of acne breakouts.

HEALING OF CUTS AND WOUNDS Zinc deficiency slows the healing of cuts and infections, so getting enough from the foods we eat or taking a zinc supplement is essential to protect our skin. But in a study published in the journal Wound Repair and Regeneration, researchers noted that topical use of zinc appears to be better at treating skin wounds than oral therapy.

According to the authors, topical zinc therapy is underappreciated even though clinical evidence emphasises its importance in autodebridement, anti-infective action and promotion of epithelialisation.

For those who are not familiar with the term debridement, this involves the removal of necrotic tissue to promote wound healing.

ZINC OXIDE AS AN EFFECTIVE SUNBLOCK We've been slathering ourselves in sunscreen for years to protect our skin from the sun and prevent skin cancer. But now we know that many of the ingredients in chemical sunscreens are actually toxic to our skin and linked to cancer themselves.

Zinc oxide is a mineral that is not soluble in water, but it does dissolve in acidic environments. It is known best as a effective ingredient in sunscreen lotions. When applied topically, zinc oxide offers several important benefits for the skin.

According to Dr Marilynn Syrett, zinc oxide is one of the safest ingredients for protecting the skin from the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays. UV rays penetrate the skin and damage tissue, speeding up the ageing process and drying the skin, while also increasing the risk of skin cancer. Sunscreens containing zinc oxide filter out UV rays, keeping them from penetrating the skin and causing cell damage.

SKIN HEALING Zinc oxide is also effective for healing the skin. It can be used to heal wounds, reduce the tenderness associated with sunburns and soften chapped skin. Jonathan Moore, DPM, notes that people who are zinc deficient typically experience slower wound-healing times. When zinc oxide is applied to the wound area, it provides the body with the extra zinc it needs to repair skin cells. Zinc oxide helps keep the wound area moist and clean.

TOP HEALTH BENEFITS OF ZINC 1. Increases Immunity and Fights Colds Zinc is often taken as a natural over-the-counter remedy for fighting colds and symptoms of illnesses. When taken for at least five months, zinc may reduce your risk of becoming sick with the common cold, plus supplementing once you already feel sick can speed up the healing process. Research shows that zinc can interfere with the molecular process that causes mucus and bacteria to build within the nasal passages. Ionic zinc, based on its electrical charge, has the ability to exert an antiviral effect by attaching to receptors in nasal epithelial cells and blocking their effects.

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5. Maintains Heart Health by Supporting Blood Vessels Zinc is needed to maintain the health of cells within the cardiovascular system, while also lowering inflammation and oxidative stress. The endothelium, the thin layer of cells that lines the blood vessels, partially relies on adequate levels of zinc. Zinc benefits heart health by supporting healthy circulation, since it helps as a natural remedy for high blood pressure and cholesterol levels from clogged or damaged arteries.

Research by the Medical Education Centre of Chandigarh, India, found that when zinc was administered within 24 hours of onset of cold-related symptoms, the duration of symptoms was significantly reduced compared to a control group that didn't supplement with zinc.

Fewer patients in the zinc group had cold-related symptoms five and seven days after experiencing the first symptoms compared to those who did not take zinc.

2. Acts as a Powerful Antioxidant that May Help Fight Cancer Zinc is an effective anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agent, helping fight oxidative stress and decrease the chance for disease development. Especially in elderly patients, zinc benefits include its ability to support healthy cell division. When researchers from the School of Medicine at the University of Michigan studied potential zinc benefits from zinc supplementation on 50 adults, they found that levels of oxidative stress markers were significantly lower in the zinc-supplemented group than in the placebo group. Those with lower zinc levels who didn't take supplements had higher levels of inflammatory cytokines, higher plasma oxidative stress markers and endothelial cell adhesion molecules. After zinc supplementation, the incidence of illness-related side effects and infections was also significantly lower in the zinc-supplemented group, another example of zinc's immune-boosting abilities.

3. Balances Hormones Zinc benefits hormonal health and fertility because it plays an important role in hormone production, including increasing testosterone naturally, which has very widespread roles in both men and women. Zinc also impacts female sex hormones and is even involved in the creation and release of eggs within and from the ovaries.

Zinc is needed for the production of oestrogen and progesterone in women, which both support reproductive health. Either too high or too low levels of estrogens can cause problems with menstruation, mood swings, early menopause, infertility and possibly even increase the risk for certain cancers.

4. Fights Diabetes Zinc is needed to balance most hormones, including insulin, the main hormone involved in the regulation of blood sugar and as a diabetes natural cure. Zinc benefits blood sugar levels because it binds to insulin so insulin is adequately stored in the pancreas and released when glucose enters the bloodstream. It also allows for proper use of digestive enzymes that are necessary for insulin to bind to cells so glucose is used as fuel for the body, instead of stored as fat.

6. Prevents Diarrhoea Zinc deficiency is related to chronic digestive problems and diarrheal diseases, so zinc supplementation has been shown to be effective in both prophylaxis and as an acute diarrhoea cure.

7. Increases Fertility Studies show that zinc plays an important role in fertility, especially modulating serum testosterone levels in men. Dietary zinc restriction and deficiency in normal young men is associated with a significant decrease in serum testosterone concentrations, which can negatively impact fertility and lower libido. In one study by the Department of Internal Medicine at Wayne University, after 20 weeks of zinc restriction, giving patients zinc supplementation effectively increased serum testosterone in the majority of men.

Zinc also impacts women's fertility since adequate levels of zinc are needed during the growth process of the female's eggs, otherwise eggs cannot properly mature and ovulation suffer.

8. Aids in Nutrient Absorption and Digestion Zinc affects protein synthesis and is required by the body to use amino acids from foods. It's also involved in the breakdown of carbohydrates from foods, which are one of the main sources of energy for the body. For this reason, deficiency in zinc can cause low energy levels and contribute to adrenal or chronic fatigue, whereas consuming enough zinc benefits ongoing energy and a healthy metabolism.

9. Supports Liver Health Supplementing with zinc is shown to reduce the incidence of infection and correlated with lower levels of liver damage. Zinc can help with a liver cleanse to reduce inflammation in the liver, reduces free radical damage, helps with nutrient absorption and allows for proper waste elimination.

10. Helps with Muscle Growth and Repair Zinc plays a crucial role in cell division and cell growth, so zinc benefits muscle repair and growth by making it possible for the body to heal itself and maintain strength in the muscular and skeletal systems. Zinc also helps with the release of testosterone, growth hormone and insulin-like growth factor-1 (IGF-1), all of which build muscle mass and a healthy metabolism.

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Reference: http://www.healthyfoodguide.com.au/articles/2011/july/are-yourisk-how-avoid-australia-s-top-dietarydeficiencies#sthash.ghdS8tlG.dpuf

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APJ 121

insurancematters

ASK THE INSURANCE GURU THE Sparrow Group is fast gaining the recognition and respect of the beauty and aesthetics industry for their timely and efficient services and expertise. They assure you peace of mind through comprehensive protection and extensive insurance knowledge on how to minimise your risk.

Reputation is the evidence of quality service and satisfied clients.

TESTIMONIALS NEW BUSINESS TESTIMONIALS "Sue, I cannot thank you and your team enough! you have been absolutely wonderful and very generous with your time and expertise in answering my questions and getting me up and running as a new client. it is very much appreciated as I can imagine that you must be a very busy woman! I'm very pleased with my decision to go with you! take care and thanks again".

Cosmetic Injector – NSW 2014 "Sue, You and your team are life savers! How prompt and efficient your service was. The girls worked diligently to ensure I had the cover I urgently needed".

Beauty Therapist – VIC 2015 "I was horrified to learn that I was not insured for half of my treatments for as long as two years prior. Sue and The Sparrow Group team were brilliant in ensuring I was covered and my laser machines were all covered. They were flexible with time, working with different time zones to get the job done. No time wasting, clear and concise information. It helps that they know the industry. They were highly recommended and now I would highly recommend them".

Laser Specialist – WA 2014 "Lovely to work with your team. I knew I had the best company when you were aware and understood all the services I was

providing. You and you team know the industry and are aware of the risks associated. Great cost-effective policies and service".

Mobile Dermal Therapist – VIC 2015 "I used to own a Beauty business but I sold it. Was great to touch base with you again and even better to find out you provide cover for my rental properties. Thanks Sue always a pleasure".

Property Owner - NSW

CLAIMS "I would like to say a huge thank you to Sue and her team especially Les, who worked with me to settle my recent claim.

Les explained everything to me every step of the way. He conversed with the Underwriters and myself and made sure everything was sorted. I had settlement almost immediately".

Burglary Damage & Theft – QLD "Was great to talk with you today Sue regarding the potential claim. I was clearly upset about the situation, but after talking with you I was able to calm down and felt a lot clearer about the situation. Your legal team have contacted me and things are going to be fine. Thanks again".

Potential Medical Malpractice Claim - NSW

The Sparrow Group Ph: (07) 5502 8326 Email: sue@thesparrowgroup.com.au www.thesparrowgroup.com.au

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Suzanne Sparrow-Crisp is the Managing Director of The Sparrow Group – a Strategic Alliance Partner and APAN's preferred insurance broker.

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When you want the perfect fit you need an

INDUSTRY SPECIALIST INSURER Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...

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APAN amalgamated all of its Facebook pages into one dynamic page to create

THE LEADING INDUSTRY

FACEBOOK

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We love sharing on Social Media information | insights | education | industry news we would love to hear from you APAN.page | @apanetwork

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