APJ Vol 6 2010

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Aesthetics Practitioners Journal

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Journal

AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS

The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ISSN: 1836-9812

Volume 6. 2010

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The Ultimate Make-Up System

NEW

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2010

Volume 6.

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LOOK

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www.naturalcompatibles.com.au

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permanent weight loss that will be presenting some amazing findings on the body/mind connection to fat loss.

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If you are serious about aesthetics you should know by now that the future lies in addressing the skin from a holistic approach. If you look at the article Body Diagnostics – The New tool for skin and body wellness, Tess Walls addresses this topic well. And just to challenge your thinking we also recommend reading the article The latest facts on Parabens in Cosmetics by Gaëlla Azzi.

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Editor’s Letter Welcome to our spring issue of APJ. I trust life is treating you well and you are preparing for better days ahead. This month has been amazing. I have spoken to despondent and discouraged individuals and I have spoken to others who were having the best success ever.

The polarity of differences was quite incredible.

But, as much as mid-year has been relatively challenging, with the bloom of spring we are seeing glimpses of optimism.

It would appear that with pressure comes innovative ideas. New technologies are entering our market – ultrasonic cavitation being one of the newcomers that is promising incredible results with cellulite and fat loss. In the issue of APJ you can read all about it in the article A new generation solution for effective FAT LOSS & CELLULITE REDUCTION, by Salvatore Scandura MD. Bonnie Sleep presents a compelling article on the hormone leptin and its role in weight loss, great news for those who wish to shed a few pounds. This is a series of several articles on

Maintaining your creative flow is easy if you choose to stay positive and this has truly made the difference for many. They say that tough times brings out the best in people, and I have truly spoken to some incredible people who have turned their lemons into lemonade and defied the odds. Courage it would seem is an incredible ingredient we can all benefit from.

I have attempted to bring to light the wonderful qualities of courage and tenacity in my article The value of Tenacity when the going is tough.

Wherever your reality and your professional journey in your career, I trust this issue will give you inspiration, encouragement, knowledge and, most importantly, fuel your passion in your profession. Love what you do and do it will zest and gusto, and you will discover that hard work will become exciting, as it will lead you to better outcomes and help you discover new and improved ways of doing things.

Life is truly great when it is meaningful!

Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer Editor APJ

ISSN: 1836-9812

Editor Tina Viney Phone (07) 5593 0360 Fax: (07) 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Web: www.apanetwork.com Typesetting & Graphics Mark Viney

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Advertising and Marketing Tina Viney & Mark Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360 Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Qld 4218 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com

Publishers Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd Design, Production and Artwork Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd 8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226 Phone: 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com Produced for Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169 Print Post Approved.

Circulation 6000 Accounts Payable Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd (APAN) PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia Journal Advisory Board Terry Everitt (Education) Wendy Neely (PR & Marketing) Dr Douglas Grose (Scientific) Caroline Nelson (Business)

The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain Cover: Enhance by Natural Compatibles the property of Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior Phone: 1800 636 077 written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been Email: makeup@naturalcompatibles.com.au made to ensure that all scientific and technical information Web: www.naturalcompatibles.com.au presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing.

However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial Please also see page 16-18 for further details. adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

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APAN, INDUSTRY REPORTS AND NEWS 6 12-15 20-21 44-45

product performers

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CEO's Report Aesthetic Bulletin APAN Membership Member Profile

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SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH/ANTI-AGEING/INGREDIENTS 8-9 30-32 36-37 38-40 44-45 46-47 72-73 76-79 86-97 96-97

The Value of Dead Sea Mud Salt in Skin and Body Wellness Is Beauty an Inside Job? Ageing NOT as we know it The latest facts on Parabens in cosmetics Impaired Enzyme Activity and its role in skin blemishes The virtues of Olive Oil for health and beauty The role of Magnesium in stress, depression and cognitive function Unwanted Fat Storage Body Diagnostics - the new tool for skin and body wellness Scientific News

BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT 10-11 16-18 24 26-29 34-35 42-43 48-49 64-65 74-75 80-83 94-95

Business in Brief A great success story for Enhance Natural Compatibles Pay as you go Beauty A Moroccan Mythical Escape The value of Tenacity when the going is tough The Importance of an Insurance review with an Expert A Day in the Life of a Beauty Industry "Fix-it" Business Coach What the Trade Practices Act has to say about Competition and Restriction of Trade The Ageless Man Spotlight on Products Survival Strategies for better staff performance

EDUCATION, TREATMENTS AND TECHNOLOGY 57 50-52 60-62 70-71 88-92

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Advance Skin Analysis Training Ageing and its Management - An Ayurvedic Perspective The new AQTF version has come into effect from July 2010 Are you up with the changing requirements?

A new generation solution for effective Fat Loss and Cellulite Reduction Scientific Overview of Psoriasis

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SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES 58-59 63 85

Cosmoprof Asia Celebrates 15 years of Success Cosmoprof Asia Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo

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CEO’s REPORT

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comprehensive service to our clients. These may be nutritionists or naturopaths for internal detoxification and dietary advice, or perhaps medical specialists for injectibles and other appearance-enhancing procedures. All these should be conducted under our umbrella that will ensure client loyalty and a cohesive transition of treatment results of a higher level.

The alliance with AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) and APAN aims to provide you with a credible educational platform to assist you with the transition of credible anti-ageing options (more on this subject in the next journal).

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For those of you who are attending the International Beauty Expo this year you will have the opportunity to check out new industry developments as well as catch up with us. Please visit us at the APAN booth number 1120, which is located in the first hall. We look forward to catching up with you and getting your feedback on how we can continue to improve our services and grow the level of support and tools we are providing for you.

CTITIO NE PRA S

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By the time this journal goes to press the A5M Anti-Ageing Conference in Melbourne would have been staged. This year, the organisers have reported a record number of delegates both from medical practitioners as well as from aesthetic and allied health practitioners. The momentum is high and everyone is buzzing with anticipation. As always, this year there will be some incredible speakers who are world authorities in their field presenting the very latest research findings in anti-ageing and preventative medicine, as well as the latest trends in aesthetic medical procedures. I promise you a full report in the next issue of APJ.

VISORY NE

Specifically, I am particularly excited about the staging of the aesthetic workshop, which A5M are doing jointly with APAN as part of a strategic alliance. The last count of delegates was close to 60, so we are thrilled with this support from the industry. A5M will be staging three streams at this conference - Internal Medicine, External Aesthetic Medicine and now Aesthetic Therapies.

Statistics, market forces and consumer demand now necessitate that our industry provide more comprehensive and advanced anti-ageing services that investigate internal wellness and incorporate protocols for longer-lasting aesthetic outcomes.

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Through its vast international networks on a daily basis APAN investigates global activities and consumer trends that affect our industry. We gather valuable industry intelligence and through this knowledge we are able to identify opportunities and establish platforms of learning and better ways of serving and empowering the industry so that it can move forward with confidence.

As a profession, we need to constantly investigate ways to step up our services, or at the very least, network with other disciplines that can provide a more complete and

TW

AD

RS

Dear Colleagues and Friends

AESTHETIC

INTERNATIONAL SPA AND BEAUTY EXPO 2010

For NSW salons and businesses we will be launching our Pay as you go BEAUTY lending facility (see page 24) for more details on how this service can help increase your cash flow and grow your business.

Join to win

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$20,000 BUSINESS INCENTIVE PACKAGE We are drawing our $20,000 Business Incentive Package on the day after the expo so make sure you join APAN to be in the draw for this incredible package. If you have not as yet taken advantage of the SPECIAL RATES for APAN Membership please make sure you get your forms in. You will find an application form on the back of the cover sheet for this journal. Additional copies can be downloaded from the APAN website www.apanetwork.com. If you are an existing APAN member and are renewing, you will also receive a ticket for this draw, so good luck to all who join or renew. I wish you every success. ㄰

May the coming months bring you joy and success in every area of your life.

Continue to invest in your knowledge and allow new information to ignite your passion for what you do and lead you to greater levels of success and professional fulfilment.

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Tina Viney Chief Executive Officer

APJ 6

TAKE YOUR CAREER TO THE NEXT LEVEL…

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Our accredited and industry recognised courses can be studied full-time, part-time or unit-by unit. All courses are available online, with practical training available in Sydney, Perth and now Gold Coast.

Visit www.aacds.edu.au, call +61 8 9382 4788 or email enquiries@aacds.edu.au for more information.

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Without minerals your body cannot transport oxygen (for example) and build bone tissue.

There are many processes in the body that require a number of different minerals, all in different tiny amounts. These minerals can be easily obtained if you eat a balanced diet or when introduced transdermally through the skin. This is why another effective way of gaining the benefits of minerals is through bathing in mineral-rich water, through body wraps and through appropriate skincare.

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We know that chronic stress is responsible for depleting the body of its mineral content, and studies now confirm that the deficiency of minerals leads to many organ malfunctions.

Minerals are involved in one or more biochemical pathways and/or physiological actions, which also influence the function of the human brain.

Most vitamin and mineral deficiencies result in psychiatric symptoms in a significant number of people, and in people with psychiatric diagnoses these deficiencies are often associated with more severe symptoms and poorer outcome from conventional treatment. Several studies have confirmed that vitamin and mineral deficiencies may act as an exacerbating factor secondary to malnutrition, alcoholism, etc. or may be a primary causative factor. Either way, optimisation of nutrient levels is in each client's best interest.

The Value of Dead Sea Mud and Salt in Skin and Body Wellness ㄰ 㤵

As aesthetic therapists one of the most important activities we can perform to support the health of the skin and body is to aid the remineralisation of the body through the products and treatments we choose to use. One way that we can achieve this is by incorporating products and treatments that offer a high percentage of bio-available natural minerals.

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Minerals are the catalysts for good health. In fact, no vitamins can be absorbed or carry out their intended functions without the presence of specific minerals in very particular amounts. Minerals orchestrate and facility the body's ability to utilise the benefit of vitamins.

Minerals also allow many metabolic reactions in your body to occur.

A WEALTH OF MINERALS One of the richest sources of minerals is available from the waters of the Dead Sea, which have been renowned for their therapeutic effects since ancient times.

These waters are unique in that they contain 27% of various salts as compared to 3% in normal seawater. Further, while sodium accounts for approximately 80% of the salt content of normal seawater, it comprises much less of the salt total in water from the Dead Sea. The balance of the salts in Dead Sea water includes magnesium, potassium, calcium chloride and bromides.

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WHY ARE DEAD SEA SALTS BENEFICIAL? Nature has synergistically balanced a wonderful array of minerals in just the right quantities in Dead Sea salts. This combination is what makes these salts so unique and powerful in enhancing both skin and body wellness.

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The Dead Sea's mineral composition differs from that of ocean water, varying with season, rainfall, depth and temperature. In particular, the salt in most oceans is approximately 97% sodium chloride, while Dead Sea salt is only 12-18% sodium chloride and has vastly greater concentrations of other salts. An analysis of major ion concentrations in the water of the Dead Sea gave the following results.

symptoms significantly diminished within the first week of treatment.

Steady improvements were observed in the following weeks. The most important noted relief is from the itching associated with psoriasis. Relief from sleeping disturbances was also noted. More than half (54%) of the patients were totally healed, while 22 cases marked impressive improvements.

Major ions of Dead Sea water Ion Concentration (mg/L)

SO WHAT IS THE SIGNIFICANCE AND BENEFITS OF THESE MINERALS?

Results from studies show that minerals found in Dead Sea salts provide the following benefits:

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DEAD SEAS MINERALS IN SKINCARE

Chloride and Bromide 230,400 Magnesium 45,900 Sodium 36,600 Calcium 17,600 Potassium 7800

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There is a place for natural mineral-rich products in the aesthetic and spa industry.

Dead Sea salts are available from reputable companies such as AHAVA who can provide you with both bulk quantities for professional salon/spa treatments as well as a comprehensive retail range for your clients. You can also incorporate them with pedicure treatments and in food spas for the added mineral benefit to the body. Mineral salts can also be crushed and incorporated within warm body oil for use as a body scrub.

Here is a brief breakdown: MAGNESIUM is important for combating stress and fluid retention, ! Assist in balance and maintain proper water Dead Sea mud is another excellent product slowing skin ageing and calming the and moisture levels in the skin that delivers phenomenal detoxification nervous system ! Aids in promoting healing in the skin benefits when applied as a body wrap. It ! C A L C I U M i s e f f e c t i v e a t ! Helping to prevent and cure allergies and gives not only draws out toxicity from the skin, preventing water retention, the skin's surface anti-allergic protection but also re-mineralises the body through increasing circulation and ! Helping to protect against airborne pollutants its rich mineral content. strengthening bones and nails due to its negative ion content ! POTASSIUM energises the body, ! Helping to counteract internal toxins when AHAVA Essential Dead Sea Treatment helps to balance skin moisture and is bathed in a Dead Sea salt bath skincare range is based entirely on the rich a crucial mineral to replenish ! Aiding relaxation and promoting a soothing resources of the Dead Sea region and following intense exercise effect provides revitalising and therapeutic ! BROMIDES act to ease muscle effects through its mineral and plant-based stiffness and relax muscles skincare treatments. They offer a ! SODIUM in the right quantities is important for the lymphatic comprehensive collection of quality products to address a variety of fluid balance (this in turn is important for immune system skin types and conditions. function).

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So we can see that bathing in high-quality Dead Sea salts could replenish the minerals which are critical to our skin's metabolism.

FURTHER STUDY RESULTS There have been numerous studies conducted on the health benefits of bathing in Dead Sea salts. Dr. I. Machtey conducted one such study on 103 patients suffering from osteoarthritis and tendonitis. Patients were either treated with baths of 7.5%, 2% or 0.5% Dead Sea salt concentration.

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Improvement was found after as little as one week of treatment for those treated with 7.5% or 2% salt baths. At the end of the study the following outcomes were recorded: ! 80% of the patients reported less pain ! 70% experienced improved mobility ! 60% were able to decrease their use of analgesics

EFFECT ON PSORIASIS More recent research about Dead Sea salt is its effects on patients suffering from psoriasis. Dr. J. Arndt made a study on 50 patients aged between 14 and 77 years old who were treated with Dead Sea salts.

The baths were controlled and the patients' skin was thoroughly rinsed with running water. Patients were treated with 3-4 baths per week for a three-week period. Results show that majority of the

AHAVA's popular skincare collections include AHAVA Age Defy, AHAVA Dermud, AHAVA Gentle, AHAVA Mineral, AHAVA Pure Pleasures, AHAVA Pure Spa, AHAVA Purifying and AHAVA Men's range.

Each Ahava skincare product is based on the natural health minerals of the Dead Sea and is 100% cruelty free – no animal testing, animal ingredients and contain no animal by-products. There's no petrolatum, harsh synthetic ingredients and no genetically modified ingredients are used in this product range.

Recently reviewed on A Current Affair, Ahava was given high praise for their quality beauty products at a reasonable price.

If you would like further information on Dead Sea Minerals and AHAVA products phone Toll Free 1800 824 282 Email: info@ahava.com.au or visit www.ahava.com.au

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REFERENCES 1. Machtey, Dr. I. 1982, Dead Sea Balneotherapy in Osteoarthritis, Proc. International Seminar on Treatment of Rheumatic Diseases.

2. Arndt, Dr. J. 1982, Salt from the Promised Land Helps Psoriasis Patients, Arztliche Praxis, 34(48).

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BUSINESS NEWS IN BRIEF

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THE KEY TO EFFECTIVE BRAINSTORMING

KEEPING ALERT ON CREDIT CARD FRAUD TO BUSINESSES AND CONSUMERS The Australian Payments Clearing Association (APCA), the payments industry self-regulatory body, recently announced the launch of a new website to increase consumer awareness of the importance of PIN protection.

Card "skimming" is the practice of illegally capturing card details from the magnetic stripe.

These details are then used to produce a counterfeit duplicate card. Card-skimming fraud is on the rise, so it is important that consumers are aware of the risks and what they can do to reduce these. In addition to capturing card details from the magnetic stripe, fraudsters often attempt to capture the PIN through "shoulder surfing" or using hidden cameras. If fraudsters are able to get the PIN as well as the card details, they can then access cash at ATMs and EFTPOS terminals.

Cardholders can reduce their chances of becoming a victim of this kind of fraud by protecting their PIN. To find out some simple steps visit www.apca.com.au/protectyourpin.

The APCA urges businesses to also play a role in this protection by educating their staff about the importance of PIN protection and making sure they encourage customers to follow the guidelines in making sure that no-one sees their PIN number. The APCA has also created Fraud Protection Guidelines for merchants, with tips on how to enhance the security around EFTPOS terminals.

You can download these guidelines from their website at www.apca.com.au.

BOOKKEEPING A PROFESSION ON THE RISE

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Salons often encourage input from their staff members to contribute to creative ideas, and often this is achieved through brainstorming sessions conducted during staff meetings.

While good results can be achieved through group input into new strategies, this format may in fact hinder the contribution of innovative new ideas.

In a paper entitled Idea generation and the quality of the best idea, Wharton Professors Christian Terwiesch and Karl Ulrich and INSEAD Professor Karan Girotra argue that group brainstorming is the enemy of businesses trying to encourage creativity and innovation. They actually found that a period of quiet contemplation prior to group discussions could be the key to more effective and innovation development, in fact, up to 30 per cent better.

According to Terwiesch, if a group is working together on an idea that's already on the table, it is unlikely that anyone with an alternative suggestion will want to present it because they might be seen as selfish, or not a team player.

So if you want to extract innovative recommendations from your staff, it is advisable to allow the staff to brainstorm on their own before you approach them to conduct a group session, as in this way you will achieve better results through a more engaging and comprehensive staff contribution.

New research shows that bookwork and financial reporting is not only time-consuming, but also stressing many small business owners, with many investing up to a quarter of their time on bookwork.

The research of 620 Australian SME New home for small business statistics owners and decision-makers shows The Australian Bureau of Statistics (ABS) has recently launched a that while two-thirds rated staff new home for small business statistics on their website to assist productivity as their number one you with starting or running a small business. concern, financial reporting is also a major stress, with 72 per cent Information and services available from the new home includes: admitting they personally look after !

Small business data the financial reporting. Over two!

Industry data thirds invest on average two hours or more per day, meaning that many are !

Planning for business spending up to 13 weeks a year on this task. ! Tailored services for business.

If this is also your reality perhaps you should consider engaging the For more information on what is available visit the ABS services of a competent and efficient bookkeeper for this task, freeing you website: www.abs.gov.au/smallbusiness or call their National to focus on the revenue-making side of your business.

Information and Referral Service on 1300 135 070.

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THE GROWING NEED FOR FLEXIBLE WORKING CONDITIONS It would seem that despite the amount of graduates that enter the workforce as qualified beauty therapists, staff and skills shortages are still at an epidemic high. One study confirmed that up to 50 per cent of qualified beauty therapists actually leave the workforce within two years. Some because they marry and have children, while others because they find the working hours required of them very restricting and look to other professions that allow for more flexibility.

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The University of South Australia conducted research in 2009 entitled "Australian work and life index". The researchers indicated that a quarter of full-time Australian employees surveyed said work often interfered with activities outside of work. Two-thirds of fulltime working women felt constantly rushed and pressed for time. Situations such as bereavement, divorce or caring for sick children require consideration from employers with the provision of flexible work hours.

Dr Maree Boyle, a researcher at the Centre for Work Organisation and Wellbeing at Griffith University in Queensland, says the benefits of implementing work/life programs are clear.

She went on to say that you're more likely to retain highly qualified staff and engage staff positively at many levels if you make provision for their work/life needs.

Supporting your staff and minimising their stress levels can ultimately lead to a happier working relationship that will flow on to your business's reputation. Dr Boyle urged employers to therefore foster a work/life culture in their businesses. business and the economy. And if you believe in something, you are more likely to position yourself to achieve it.

POSITIVE WOMEN POWER Ladies, your balance of logic and creativity has scored you high as positive business operators. Maybe this is why women in Australia are growing in numbers as business owners. A survey conducted by Sensis® this year confirmed that women business operators are more positive about their prospects heading into 2011. In addition women business operators were more likely to be aiming for more significant business growth than their male counterparts. The analysis also shows that businesswomen are more successful in accessing credit and more optimistic about the future of their

The research found: ! One in 10 women were aiming for significant growth (10 per cent) compared to 6 per cent of men. ! Almost nine in 10 (87 per cent) of businesses operated by women that had applied for finances reported success with their applications, compared with 59 per cent of business run by men. ! 62 per cent of women who own or run businesses hold stronger expectations for sales in a year's time compared to 57 per cent of businesses run by men.

GOOD BUSINESS REGISTER The Good Business Register is a free online tool for small to medium-sized businesses, aimed at increasing awareness of responsible and sustainable business practices. Using the tool allows you to create a sustainability report that can be used in the tender and procurement process to convey the unique aspects of your business to potential clients, staff and the community. For more information or to register, visit the Good Business Register website on www.goodbusinessregister.com.au

SMALL BUSINESS TAX CALENDAR Your small business tax calendar is an easy-touse computer tool that will help you plan and manage your tax obligations and give you timely reminders. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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It automatically builds a 12-month schedule tailored to your business lodgment and payment needs.

You can: ! Personalise it in around 10 minutes when you answer specific questions about your business ! Update it at any time if you change your business structure or reporting obligations

! ! !

Use it to record personal notes and reminders Print a one-page summary of your tax obligations and due dates for the year to use as a yearly planner Receive a reminder through Microsoft Outlook or from your computer system when a lodgment or payment is due.

If you run more than one business, you can set up a unique tax calendar for each business.

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The calendar for 2010-11 is now available. For more information or to download the calendar, v i s i t t h e Ta x O f f i c e w e b s i t e o n http://www.ato.gov.au/businesses/content.asp?d oc=/content/00148826.htm

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AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN

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This section will present the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.

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OLIVE OIL

The perfect hair conditioner

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We know the virtues of olive oil for health of the skin and body, but what about the hair?

When used on hair and scalp, olive oil can be considered two products a deep conditioner and a dandruff controller.

NEW ANTI-AGEING SKINCARE INGREDIENTS A natural wool extract sourced from New Zealand sheep has been patented under the name Cynergy TK™ and hailed to contain the new anti-ageing skincare ingredient that stimulates the body's own natural collagen and elastin to boost skin tone and elasticity.

The proteins produced are ultra pure and are directly available to the innermost layers of the skin, which has an immediate and lasting impact in terms of reducing the wrinkles and lines from the skin.

Furthermore, another New Zealand natural ingredient Active Manuka Honey also a powerful ingredient you should look for. This honey is now known to stimulate the production of collagen and Elastin in the body and makes the skin naturally firm and elastic. It is also an excellent moisturiser and keeps the skin soft and supple.

There is also a unique anti-bacterial property of this honey that makes it very effective at protecting your skin from bacterial attacks and is known as the Unique Manuka Factor (UMF).

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Phytessence Wakame is another one of the advanced antiageing skin care ingredients. Although is has been in use in Japan for centuries, the Western world has only recently discovered this amazing ingredient. This sea kelp nourishes your skin with vitamin B complex and essential minerals like iron, calcium and potassium restoring skin tone and elasticity. It also prevents the breakdown of the important hyraluronic acid in the skin, which binds the Collagen fibres together and helps keep the skin firm and toned. Wakame also protects the skin from the harmful UV rays of the sun that can breakdown the Collagen fibres and also cause the formation of age spots by increasing the melanin levels in the skin.

Ref: www.totalskinsolution.com

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After shampooing, massage a mixture of equal amounts of olive oil and water into your hair. Leave on for 5 minutes, then shampoo again once and rinse. Your scalp will benefit from healthy conditioning and your hair will respond with more shine and strength.

Train in the famous and time-honoured Dr Jaquet massage techniques for problematic skin conditions and anti-ageing benefits If you would like to upgrade your skills and learn new techniques then join other qualified beauty therapists to learn two time-honoured techniques:

1. The DOCTOR JAQUET METHOD This is a dry massage technique for face, neck and shoulders that was developed

by Dr Jaquet for treating problematic skin as well as acne. It addresses the underlying structures, stimulating lymphatic flow and improving the delivery of oxygen and nutrients to the skin without any surface irritation or overstimulation.

2. The DOCTOR JAQUET ANTIWRINKLE METHOD This method works on stimulating collagen and elastin production in the deeper layers of the skin delivering immediate results for a more revived and tones complexion. It also offers effective long-term anti-wrinkle benefits, while softening and eradicating ageing lines and furrows, as well as counteracting and preventing wrinkles from forming. A wonderful anti-ageing technique that is also known as the famous Lancome Massage Method.

3. MANUAL LYMPHATIC DRAINAGE This is the original French method of manual lymphatic drainage for face and body. Excellent for relieving fluid retention and to support detoxification treatments.

Training Dates and Times: Training is available in various States subject to demand. Cost is subject to what study program you will undertake.

For further information and bookings phone Marie Beardsley on 0400 260 556.

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Bag it all this summer!

Peel and post your way up to a Gucci.

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar

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Produced by Terry Everitt, Aesthetic Educators

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From the 1st September 2010 until the 31st March 2011 BeautWise Pty Ltd is giving away a beautiful pink luxurious Italian made Gucci bag. So what do you have to do for a Gucci?

It's SIMPLE! Log onto our website www.beautwise.com.au and post the before, during and after feet pictures of using Beauty Feet?. Complete your entry by filling in your contact details. Remember to get all your friends and family voting for you, to increase your chances of winning!* Plus there's more!

Every entry has a chance to win one of twelve combo packs of our popular Duo Collagen Mask? and Beauty Feet?, both made in Japan, for the total head to toe transformation! *Terms and conditions apply

For further information about the competition please visit: BeautWise

Ph: 0 7 3012 9494 Mobile: 0430 379 709

Sept 4-5

Sydney Int. Spa & Beauty expo Sydney Convention & Exhibition Centre T: 02 9422 2535 Email:enquiries@internationalbea utyexpo.com.au

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Sept 16-17 Natural Health Conference and Expo Aotea Centre, Auckland, NZ T: 1300 789 845 (Australia) F: 02 9660 9786 Email:info@naturalhealthexpo.co m.au

Sept 25-27 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, California, USA T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com Oct 3-4

Email: wendyl@beautwise.com.au Web:www.beautwise.com.au

Esthetic and Spa Trade Show Palais des congrès de Montréal Montreal (QC) Canada T: + 450 434-4738 F: + 450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

Oct 10-11 Professional Beauty Manchester Manchester Central, England.

T: +44 (0) 20 7728 4298 Email: marilyn.foyle@emap.com Oct 17-18 Esthetically Yours Trade Show Convention Centre Downtown Metro Toronto, Toronto(ON) Canada T: + 450 434-4738, F: + 450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

PCOS Is The Most Common Cause of Serious Weight Gain in Young Women

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Oct 17-18 Premier Birmingham Birmingham Jefferson Convention Center, Birmingham, Alabama, US T: + 1 407.265.3131 F: +1 407.265.3134

Polycystic ovarian syndrome (PCOS) is a very common female hormone disorder. Most health professionals now acknowledge the underlying cause of PCOS is a high sugar diet. Consuming too many sugary foods can lead to insulin resistance, a condition associated with poor blood sugar control and weight gain. Over time this can result in women developing a secondary problem with PCOS.

Oct 18-19 Esthetic and Spa Trade Show Stampede Park, Calgary(AB) Canada T: + 450 434-4738, F: + 450 435-2027 Email: info@spa-show.com

The International Diabetes Federation recently published a new definition for insulin resistance syndrome. To have this condition a person must have central body fat concentrated around the waist, plus any 2 of the following indicators: ! A raised triglyceride level (a type of fat in the blood) ! A low level of HDL-cholesterol ('good' cholesterol) ! High blood pressure or ! Increased blood sugar after a period of fasting, or have been previously diagnosed with type 2 diabetes

Oct 24-25 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Pennsylvania Convention Center Philadelphia, Pennsylvania T: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664 Email: registration@lneonline.com

There is now growing evidence that PCOS is related to a poor diet and in particular the frequent use of sugary food.

Oct 25-27

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Japan West INTEX Osaka Nanko Cosmo Square, Osaka, Japan T: +49 69 75 75-0 F: +49 69 75 75-64 33 Email:beautyworld@messefrankfu rst.com

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APJ 13

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Glow2Thione™ Skin Whitening Age Defying Supplements

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Dealing with pigmentation can be quite a challenge especially when the only tool you are using is external topical treatments. Now a new product is available that targets the problem from within.

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Glow2Thione™ is an effective anti-oxidant supplement. It works by targeting unstable molecules (free radicals), which cause the cells in our body to be damaged. Glow2Thione™ contains L-glutathione, which inhibits and blocks Tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for the production of dark melanin pigments. The manufacturers recommend continuous and consistent supplementation for gradual skin lightening until you reach the skin tone you desire.

FOR SALE BEAUTY SALON/SKIN – LASER CLINIC NORTH WEST MELBOURNE VICTORIA

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Glow2Thione™ contains the most powerful antioxidants which works synergistically to create what scientists call as the Antioxidant Cycling. It is a process in which antioxidants work together to extend each others' lives and make each other more powerful. That's the reason why Glow2Thione™ is very potent and effective in bringing results.

Glow2Thione™ doesn't only contribute to clearer skin, it also supports the body's wellness. It is evident in most scientific studies that powerful antioxidants like Lglutathione, Vitamin C, Alpha Lipoic Acid and Grape Seed Extract aid in boosting the body's immune system and fights certain types of cancers as well as neuro-degenerative diseases.

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Established 27 years

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Turnover $505,000

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Freehold available

BUSINESS MUST BE SOLD DUE TO FAMILY ILLNESS Much more than just your standard beauty clinic, this business has build a reputation that draws clients from across Melbourne and the surrounding regional area.

For further information visit: http://www.superwhiteningpills.net/ shipping.html

OWNER WILL STAY PART-TIME 3-DAYS A WEEK. Offers three unique areas: CLINICAL

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IPL, Laser, Microdermabrasion, peels, Intense tissue treatments electrolysis, Cosmetic tattoo Injectibles (clinical nurse)

RELAXATION facial, body scrubs, massage, Reiki indulgence packages

PERSONAL GROOMING

waxing, tinting, lash perming, spa Manicure and Pedicare, spray tan gel nails Salon stocks Genetic and Skinceuticals skincare and operates through Small Biz Computer software program.

Located in a regional town 40 minutes from the Melbourne, CBD. The business has built its clientele by providing a broad range of cutting edge and traditional clinical, relaxation and personal grooming treatments. Also receives referrals from doctors, naturopaths. Existing clients continue to expand the business's already considerable client base.

Position close to the main street of town, the premises include sever treatment rooms, reception, office, plus staff and client facilities. An ideal location, extended lease is available, or the freehold can be purchased in addition to the asking price.

The town bosts a friendly community and village-like feel, perfect for those looking to escape big-city living.

Expressions of interest will be considered. Phone Judith 03 9744 3696

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Father’s Day is just around the corner. Check out APAN’s great gift vouchers, post cards, thank you cards and reminder cards. We even have a great one for Male Clients. Use this one for Father ’s Day. Visit www.apanetwork.com to check out the full range and order today!

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APJ 14

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Study shows milk protein can help clear teenage skin Research carried out by Holland-based Campina Industrial Products, shows that a milk protein it has launched can lead to a 50 per cent reduction in acne within the space of two weeks.

Tests were carried out through the research and development arm of parent group DMV International.

The tests showed that of 44 volunteers taking an oral treatment that included the extract, by the second week less than half of the individuals were still suffering from acne.

A continuation of the study showed that less than 30 per cent of these individuals were still suffering from acne symptoms after four weeks and over 95 per cent reported no symptoms after 8 weeks, results that the company says prove that the ingredient remains effective with continued treatment.

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Oct 29

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The company was testing its Praventin milk extract, which was launched on the European and North American markets towards the end of last year. Following the launch the company has reported a big success in the take up for the extract, citing its own research as proof of its efficacy.

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International Aesthetic Show Calendar Baltic Beauty World 2010 CIDESCO Lativa, Riga, Latvia.

T:+371 228 474 74 F:+371 731 33 59 Email: info@kosmetikasskola.lv

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Nov 6-7

Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa Conference Broward County Convention Center Fort Lauderdale, Florida, USA T: +1 203-383-0516 F: +1 212-895-8209 Email: dwaltersdorf@questex.com

Nov 10-12 Cosmoprof Asia 1 Harbour Road Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel : +39 02 796 420 Fax : +39 02 795 036 E-mail : sogecos@cosmoprof.com Nov 13-15 CIDESCO Italy National Congress – Rome, Italy.

T: +39 392 980 8048 F: +39 532 171 2001 Email: info@cidesco.it Nov 15-18 ISPA Gayloard National Resort & Conference Centre Washington DC, USA T: +1 859 226-4326 F: +1 859 226-4445 Email: ispa@ispastaff.com Dec 9-11

American Academy of AntiAging Medicine Las Vegas, NV, USA T: +1-561-997-0112 F:+1-561-997-0287 Email: info@a4m.com

Accordingly the company also claims that 86 per cent of the teenagers who participated as volunteers in the test said that they would continue to use the treatment as they were happy with the results.

BeautWise Pty Ltd. ㄰ 㤵

Praventin contains milk protein fractions, including lactoferrin and active whey protein fractions. Lactoferrin, in particular, is known to support the body's immune system, control infections and to assist in the recovery of damaged tissue. It is also an important component of mother's milk, protecting babies against infection.

Another New Zealand manufacturer Quantec has been working on the Immune Defence Proteins (IDP) for four years and is now ready to launch the ingredient onto the skincare and supplement market.

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They state that the protein forms part of the cow's own defence system. Potential application for skincare include anti-acne formulations, products for psoriasis relief, anti-fungal system for athlete's foot, as well as for dandruff relief.

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APJ 15

success story ㄰

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A great Success Story for

NATURAL COMPATIBLES Longevity is no doubt the hallmark of survival and when it comes to professional makeup products the key here is quality. In the Australian professional beauty market makeup brands have come and gone, but one company has endured the test of time. The company is Enhance by Natural Compatibles, which recently proudly celebrated 17 years of beauty through Feature Focussing™ for Australian women of all ages.

Today Enhance by Natural Compatibles continues to deliver timeless make-up enhancement solutions to thousands of Australian women through professional beauty and hair salons, enabling salons to educate their clients on applying makeup to enhance their facial symmetry. Their secret is not only the quality of their formulation, but also the precise and time-honoured techniques that are based on art.

The simple, no guesswork formula for colour selection and step-bystep application process – Feature Focussing™ technique for 'warm' and 'cool' skin tones – guarantees excellent results improving and enhancing every woman's appearance regardless of her age.

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"Our make-up philosophy is based on the traditional principles of art used by portrait artists throughout the ages. Each colour in the collection has been specially created to give a radiant appearance to the skin and enhance the natural features of your face," says founder Denise Richardson

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NEW LOOK AND NEW DIRECTION ㈵

Enhance by Natural Compatibles recently revealed its NEW LOOK, unveiling the stunning new face of the brand incorporated together with the elegant golden logo branding.

“After years of delivering timeless make-up enhancement solutions to thousands of Australian women, it was time for our brand to have an

APJ 16

extreme makeover," says Denise Richardson, founder and managing director of Enhance by Natural Compatibles. "'Enhance' encompasses all that's contemporary and embodies our philosophy that all we need is to enhance our natural beauty to maintain a look that's timeless and youthful."

The NEW LOOK Enhance by Natural Compatibles is keeping with the evolution of make-up brands within the industry and presents a brand image of good style that is stylish and easily embraced by salons to further enhance the look of their own salon. The NEW LOOK hallmark face portrays timeless natural beauty and positions the brand as an equal among its peers as a market leader in professional in-salon makeup. Armed with an array of contemporary makeup stands designed in clear crafted Perspex, the products and testers can now be stylishly displayed to give any salon an instant up-market look.

The full service makeup range provides a complete suite of quality that delivers perfectly on all contemporary looks, using shades based on the earth's natural colours, enhanced by highlight tones and sparkle for night. Its success is based on providing quality products that cover every client's needs: ! Long-lasting day ! Chic night ! Bridal ! Special occasion ! Features such as smoky eyes lip definition, all using the Feature Focussing™ technique.

The vast array of corporate collateral can be used to enhance the salon's appearance through an array of posters, banners, show cards and DL backing cards, and a 12-page, glossy, full product range brochure, which provides salons with support to enhance their sales.

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NEW-LOOK SALONS The recent opening and refurbishment of several glamorous salons themed with Enhance by Natural Compatibles deliver a make-up experience for beauty addicts who love to combine the experience of makeup application in good style. The company is delighted and honoured to be a part of these new and existing salons around the country. The NEW LOOK Enhance by Natural Compatibles fit perfectly together to enhance each other's position as providing a stylish beauty experience for women.

NEW WEBSITE Included in the evolving brand image is a NEW LOOK Natural Compatibles website complete with the entire product range and application, company information, Feature Focussing™ technique, consumer brochure and salon finder to locate the nearest Natural Compatibles salon stockist around Australia.

MARKETING INITIATIVES FOR SUPPORT TO SALONS With the new branding exercise Enhance by Natural Compatibles has also upgraded their clients’ support through new and exciting tools: 1. Customised onsite training as required 2. Upselling advice – how to sell more to your clients 3. In store banners – large and small, featuring either model or product 4. In store show cards – contemporary counter show cards with product display 5. Full Brush kit with Brush cleaner, latex-free sponges, disposable mascara wand, spatulas and lip brushes 6. Comprehensive training material, including DVD and booklet 7. National marketing campaign Salons, clinics and spas can expect to achieve excellent profit margins

that will enhance their product sales with Enhance by Natural Compatibles and its strong and credible reputation for nearly two decades.

You will also receive excellent training for you and your team not only in the Feature Focussing™ timeless principles, but also in the art of selling makeup.

THE FOUR TIPS FOR SUCCESS To help you achieve success the company advocates four simple tips: ! Make sure your team members wear the makeup and understand how to apply it. If needs be, offer them incentives with makeup, based on how much they sell. ! Educate your team members to understand the role of Feature Focussing™ in applying makeup so they understand how to use colour to enhance rather than just colour in. You will notice a world of difference with their sales results. ! Keep small items near your pay station – often people like to purchase a product after a great treatment! Keep the product as near to them as possible! ! Conjure up packages, for example, ultimate FLAWLESS SKIN PACKAGE combining a facial packaged together with a Wet & Dry Foundation for flawless skin. Alternatively you can offer a make-up lesson for friends. Girls love that!

Here are the benefits in support to you and in terms of customer awareness: ! Information packs sent out to existing salons and available for potential new salons ! Online and Digital media campaign focusing and featuring on a host of online opportunities ! Showcasing salons the new brand identity and offering them new marketing collateral to promote the product within salons

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black, green brown, Lavender Oil, Mica, Sericite, Sweet almond, the finest highgrade Talc from Japan, Titanium dioxide, Ultra marines – violet, blue, pink, Vitamin E (tocopherol), Vitamin C (ascorbyl palmitate) and Zinc oxide.

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AWARD WINNERS AND INDUSTRY RECOGNISED

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Professional makeup application and product training to aid in selling product and makeup demonstrations Website with full product range and descriptions, video demonstration and salon locater to showcase the product sold nationally Salons can purchase the consumer brochure, which showcases the full range of Natural Compatibles products for consumers Professional support five days a week National marketing campaign Australian-made, high-quality, mineral-enriched make-up range Makeup instructional videos online and for salon use

Enhance by Natural Compatibles has not only won numerous makeup competitions, they are also recognised as a leading professional makeup company that has gained the respect and support not only of schools, colleges and TAFE institutions around Australia, but also of other leading organisations such as WorldSkills Australia.

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Enhance by Natural Compatibles is the exclusive makeup brand of choice used at the National WorldSkills Australia competition for the beauty care component and has just announced their participation for the 2012 WorldSkills Australia competition both regionally and nationally. "The company is committed to helping and supporting young people realise their career dreams. WorldSkills provides a great opportunity to see the top 14 Beauty Care competitors from 14 regions around the country who wish to have a career in beauty achieve their goals," says Louise Mucha, Colour Expert and National Educator for Enhance by Natural Compatibles.

THE SECRET IS IN FEATURE FOCUSSING™ Enhance by Natural Compatibles’ colour range is based on the principles of art combined with the unique Feature Focussing™ technique, which highlights and defines the two main communicating features – the eyes and lips that create symmetry and balance and work to enhance every aspect of the individual's personality and style. The product range and application guidelines make the minefield of makeup choice easy.

Mucha participated in the National WorldSkills Australia competition as one of the three qualified judges from across Australia. Competitors used the Enhance by Natural Compatibles make-up range to apply a range of looks, which were judged over the three-day period.

LEADERS IN PROFESSIONAL MAKE-UP EDUCATIONAL TOOLS

With the company's advancements it is now well positioned to also service aesthetic and anti-ageing clinics as the perfect companion product ensuring that they can further enhance their clients' appearance by the correct makeup application and through quality products. Lipstick and lip liners are just the right consistency to restore youthful, feminine lips and detract from lines and ageing around the mouth area. The application of the correct lip colour also makes teeth appear whiter, leaving women feeling confident every day.

With a passion for professional makeup education for over 17 years, Enhance by Natural Compatibles has mastered the skills and tools one needs, for perfect symmetry. Their system is so successful that it has won the support of several training institutions that include it in their colleges. Education tools include Trade Product Directory, Schools brochures and Training Manuals.

INGREDIENTS AND QUALITY CONTROL The company is committed to enhancing the health and beauty of Australian women with carefully manufactured products using the highest-quality ingredients selected for their ease of application, staying-power and long-term benefits for the skin. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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For quality control and as a commitment to the end-user, every batch of Eye Shadow Blush, Loose Powder and Wet & Dry Foundation undergoes independent laboratory micro testing. This testing ensures Enhance by Natural Compatibles products are free from any form of contamination and that preservatives work efficiently. Upon completion, a Certificate of Analysis is listed for each batch. This is not a statutory requirement, but a choice of the company to ensure the highest level of product quality. Furthermore, the products are manufactured from the highest-grade ingredients and contain proven botanicals, vitamins and minerals including: Avocado Oil, Carmine, Evening primrose, Iron oxide – red, yellow,

THE CHOICE FOR AESTHETIC AND ANTI-AGEING CLINICS

Eyeshadows have the right colour density to enhance the beauty of the eyes, offering a natural lift for a natural, ageless appearance. Versatile for multi-purpose use, they can also be used on both the eyes and the eyebrows or used wet as a lower eyeliner.

Enhance by Natural Compatibles makeup products work to enhance the natural beauty of Australian women by complementing the features of their face. Products are manufactured using only proprietary ingredients that meet the highest standard.

Colour palettes are carefully selected and the philosophy is based on the principles of art rather than seasonal fads.

If you believe that the quality and good reputation of Enhance

by Natural Compatible makeup can add value to your business contact them for further information

1800 636 077

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www.naturalcompatibles.com.au

APJ 18

SORISA MULTIPLE MODALITIES ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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IMPACT

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Sculpt your figure at the speed of sound

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In order to be competitive, you need to be on top of the latest trends in the industry so you

can offer your clients a more effective and comprehensive solution to their body concerns.

With the high performance and advanced technology of the SORISA IMPACT AND PRESOR-03 you can achieve exacting, exceptional and longer lasting results.

IMPACT is the alternative to surgical liposuction to visibly reduce localized fatty deposits, slash cellulite and firm the skin. IMPACT's cutting edge action combines CAVITATION with Electroporation to multiply treatment benefits for speedier and more effective results.

PRESOR-03 computerised pressure therapy kick-starts lymphatic drainage, enhances the immune system to improve blood circulation, the condition of blood vessels, promote tissue regeneration and decrease cellulite.

Swimsuit season is here, boost your body services and achieve outstanding results every time by offering real solutions to body concerns by combining two extremely effective treatments.

wow

IMPACT LIQUIFIES FAT

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PRESOR-03

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goodbye to localised fat

LYMPHATIC DRAINAGE

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Take advantage of our ㈵

exclusive promotional machine package to reduce your bottom line and your client's.

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Call Vogue Image Group now on 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033 or email: info@vogueimage.com.au

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Through careful due-diligence research APAN has established a strategic alliance with 10 organisations who are offering APAN members credible products and services. Please keep this form in a safe place to refer and access these companies for products and services that will support your business growth. Below is a list of our Members’ Strategic Alliance Partners:

AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) – offering our members discounts to their Conferences. They have also developed an Anti-Ageing Certification Program for aesthetic and allied health professionals. Phone (03) 9813 0439.

ANZ Bank – is committed to helping Small Business Customers get-off-the-ground, grow and thrive. APAN members can phone 1800 689 765 for a free Business Planning CD. A series of free online market-leading educational courses and tools are available to help grow your skills and knowledge. To find out more and to register visit www.thebhub.com.au Care Super – is an industry super fund that was established in 1986 to provide people with the means to save for a financially secure retirement. It is the largest industry fund specialising in super for people engaged in professional, managerial, administrative and service occupations. CareSuper returns all profits to members, which means more money for retirement. Care Super has held meetings with APAN to determine the best possible services for our members. Phone 1300 360 149.

The Sparrow Group

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– Beauty industry specific insurance needs. We have negotiated with Sue Sparrow for all members who join APAN to receive a comprehensive personalised insurance review consultation valued at $190. Phone (07) 5502 8326.

Membersfirst

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– This is a credible financial institution that has committed to helping our members with financial loans, mortgage restructuring, equipment leasing and financial planning. They have numerous offices across Australia to assist you quickly and efficiently. Phone (03) 8888 6000.

AD

CTITIO NE PRA

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APAN STRATEGIC ALLIANCE PARTNERS

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VISORY NE

AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK PTY LTD ACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

Commonwealth Bank – The Commonwealth Bank has given us an excellent corporate rate for our members to access credit card facilities at a reduced interest rate. This is serviced through EMS – Eftpos Merchant Services, in conjunction with the Commonwealth Bank, to provide quality service with eftpos and merchant banking needs. Phone 1300 791 114.

Marsh – In consultation with APAN Marsh has identified members’ needs so that they can provide quality insurance options.

Phone (07) 3115 4555.

4CP Promotional Products and Graphic Design – One of Australia’s most efficient and costeffective providers of quality marketing and promotional products, which they will personalise with your logo and contact details at special members’ prices. Phone (07) 5442 3341.

Brand New Solutions – Providing Social Media network packages for businesses with Special rates for APAN Members. Brand New Solutions is also considered as Australia’s leading Anti-Ageing PR and Marketing specialists, providing branding and business-building solutions. Phone (02) 8356 9595.

Livingstone International – Offering one of Australia’s broadest range of quality hygiene and healthcare products for the aesthetic, dental, medical, schools and hairdressing industry.

Special offers for APAN members (check website for details). Phone 1300 557 557.

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PAY as You Go – Loans to NSW APAN members’ clients up to $8000 subject to financial approval.

For further information please contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 or email info@apanetwork.com “Developing dynamic alliances for the Aesthetics Industry”

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new technology ㄰

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Always Beautiful – Forever Young Introducing a Cosmetic Revolution Vogue Image Group is delighted to announce the overwhelming response they have had with the launch in Australia of the new antiageing skincare CORRECTIVE. The new-generation skincare line was developed by Skeyndor and incorporates a breakthrough in advanced peptide technology. After three years of research on more than 25 tested substances, and reviewing approximately 200 combinations of ingredients, the Skeyndor laboratory has resulted in developing a truly remarkable compound that was able to overcome some of the limitations of past formulations.

The CORRECTIVE skincare range is scientifically formulated to treat deep wrinkles and expression lines both quickly and effectively.

It combines up to nine active substances of proven efficacy to assist in the density of internal tissue, plump up the skin to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and discourage the formation of further lines.

The action of lifting peptides formulated through state-of-the-art technology effectively target pre and post-synaptic activity-relaxing wrinkles, even the deeper ones, resulting in restored skin firmness and a rejuvenated youthful appearance.

The problem with proteins and peptides is that they have large molecular structures that cannot penetrate the skin to target skin wrinkles at their origin. This barrier is formed by the skin itself to prevent topically applied substances entering the skin, and so aesthetic medicine needed to identify a way to overcome this barrier, which it has successfully achieved.

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CORRECTIVE offers an effective, synergistic, home treatment range consisting of four products: ! Instant wrinkle-filler cream – This cream helps to plump up the skin, "filling in" deep wrinkles and softening expression lines on the face. The formula's actives assist in supporting tissue density, while ingredients such as hyaluronic acid reinforce the skin's hydration levels and lift the skin. ! Eye expression-line eraser – An excellent formulation to relax the expression lines around the eye contour. Containing a combination of skin-plumping and toning agents, which produce an immediate skin-lifting effect, immediately reducing expression lines. ! Expression-line serum – This serum will smooth even deep wrinkles and expression lines on the face. It contains neuralinhibiting agents and skin-lifting peptides with pre and postsynaptic activity that reinforce the skin's tone and elasticity. ! Instant lip-contour filler – This is a wonderful product for increasing skin volume and relaxing deep wrinkles around the lip

contour. It contains skin-lifting agents, ingredients to support skin density and plumpness. Its creamy texture nourishes and hydrates the delicate skin around the lips, providing them with the necessary protection and comfort.

Together, these four products provide powerful lifting, plumping and skin anti-ageing benefits for homecare use. They provide an immediate effect, while the skin will continue to improve with continued use.

SKEYNDOR CORRECTIVE offers also an effective three-step salon treatment procedure to combat the appearance of wrinkles with great success.

CLINICAL RESULTS: Ten volunteers took part in a clinical trial using CORRECTIVE homecare treatment products. The candidates were between 40 and 55 years of age. The trial was conducted over 28 days and the product was applied twice a day. The candidates were under dermatological and ophthalmological control. Their results were as follows: ! Anti-wrinkle efficiency noted in 90% of the volunteers. ! Reduction between 33%? and 52% in the total surface area of wrinkles. ! Reduction of between 33%? and 45% in the number of wrinkles. ! Reduction of between 29%? and 49% in the total length of the wrinkles. ! Reduction of between 28%? and 43% in the depth of wrinkles.

SELF-ASSESSMENT: Each candidate was asked to comment on their perceived results.

Here is what they had to say: ! Reduction of wrinkles and more radiant skin 82%. ! Younger-looking skin, soft and fine 82%. ! Softened expression lines. Skin looked denser and firmer 73%.

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For further details phone Vogue Image Group on 1800 554 545 Apology: The phone number in the previous issue of APJ was incorrect. We apologise for any inconvenience. Please note the correct number is as above.

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APJ 22

member benefits ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Pay as you go Beauty

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the new tool to business growth

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A new Member Benefit from APAN ㈵

With the slowing down of the economy clients are finding it difficult at times to take advantage of package deals for their skin and body management programs. Our feedback from the industry has confirmed that salons would like some help from APAN in this regard.

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We were alerted to this need also by business coach Caroline Nelson from Nelson Beauty Business.

Caroline travels extensively through every State assisting salons, clinics and spas and was very aware of the financial difficulty that some salons were experiencing.

We investigated several financial companies who were providing financial services to consumers, but as you can imagine aesthetic procedures cannot be repossessed, so many companies considered our industry as a high risk. Furthermore, there were some companies that we decided to reject, as they did not meet with our criteria. Our concern was also to ensure that the companies we negotiated with were credible, had a long-term history and were sound in their business practices.

One company that had met our criteria was Retail Sales Development.

RSD has a 50-year history of successful lending for the fashion and clothing industry. After in-depth negotiations we were successful in establishing a new product developed as a joint initiative with RSD exclusively for our members called Pay as you go Beauty.

This strategic alliance is now available for all APAN members in NSW. Unfortunately, at this point this service is not available for businesses in other States. However, we are pursuing this matter and will inform you of any further developments.

The reason why RSD is insisting in working only with APAN members is because they are interested in dealing with serious and responsible businesses that can work with them to minimise any risk to them. This is because once the loan has been approved to the client the risk then transfers to their company. They therefore recognised that businesses that are linked to a credible industry body such as APAN have demonstrated a level of commitment to good professional and business practices. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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HOW CAN Pay as you go MY BUSINESS?

Beauty BENEFIT

For 50 years RSD has financed customer accounts in regional clothing stores and have gained the reputation as being the tool for businesses to increase sales and encourage customer loyalty.

In conjunction with the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN) they now would like to offer the same service to the clients of NSW salons, spas and clinics.

Once approved by RSD your clients will enter into a 20-week contract with RSD. RSD will pay you the amount up front (less 10% commission) and from then on your client will make regular repayments either direct to RSD through their bank account or through your salon.

From our estimation we believe that the average salon treatment pack ranges from $1,200 to $2,500. We have therefore requested that funding be made available to approved clients for up to $8,000.

Unless a client can pay cash or by cheque the only other option is credit card. Traditionally, credit cards only have 4-5 weeks duration before the interest kicks in and this at high rates of 17-23 per cent.

Now there is another option that will ease that burden.

With this facility you will have the potential to make your clients' treatments and packages more affordable, while increasing your income and growing your business.

If you would like further information on Pay as you

go Beauty contact APAN on 07 5593 0360 email: info@apanetwork.com or if you are attending the International Beauty Expo please visit the APAN Stand on 1120.

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A joint initiative of ㈵

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Fleur de Lys Medispa Reception Area

A Moroccan Mythical Escape FLEUR DE LYS MEDISPA

by Tina Viney In a buzz of excitement over 70 guests congregated for the opening of the Fleur de Lys Medispa located in Queens Street, Woollahra in Sydney. It was Tuesday, 10th August and local guests as well as the press were there to experience the ambience of the first Moroccanstyle medispa in the region.

On entering you become transfixed with the exotic and colourful surroundings. Culturally rich and with the lure of gentle Arabian music, guests are enticed into a complete sensory overload.

MOROCCAN CULTURE

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Morocco is located in North Africa with a coast on the Atlantic Ocean reaching past the Strait of Gibraltar into the Mediterranean Sea. This mystical country attracts travellers from all over the world to seek to explore the fascinating culture of the wonderful heritage sites of this almost medieval-like country.

THE LANGUAGE When it comes to language Morocco is very unique. French is not the official language, but it's widely used in official government documents, and by the business community. Moroccan Arabic or Darija is a common native language, and it is spoken, but not written.

Classical Arabic is official, and it's a written but not a natively spoken

language. Amazigh or Berber is a widely spoken language and is both native and written.

THE HISTORY The history of Morocco spans over 12 centuries, and the country was first created by the Idrisid dynasty, whose origins are from Saudi Arabia, representing the first Islamic State in Africa autonomous from the Arab Empire. Under the Almoravid dynasty and the Almohad dynasty, Morocco dominated the Maghreb and Muslim Spain. The Reconquista ended Almohad rule in Iberia and many Muslims and Jews migrated to Morocco. Under the Saadi dynasty, Morocco would consolidate power and fight off Portuguese and Ottoman invaders, as in the battle of Ksar el Kebir. The reign of Ahmad al-Mansur brought new wealth and prestige to the Sultanate, and an invasion of the Songhay Empire was initiated. However, managing the territories across the Sahara proved too difficult.

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After the death of al-Mansur the country was divided among his sons.

In 1666 the sultanate was reunited by the Alaouite dynasty, that have since been the ruling house in Morocco. The organisation of the State developed with Ismail Ibn Sharif. With his Black Guard he drove the British from Tangier (1684) and the Spanish from Larache (1689).

The Alaouite dynasty distinguished itself in the 20th century by maintaining Moroccan independence while other States in the region succumbed to European interests.

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As you can see Morocco offers a rich experience of another era and precisely this elements offers guests an escape from the pressures and speed of modern society. Likewise the objective of Fleur de Lys Medispa is to provide its guests a mythical escape from the day-to-day pressures of life, while at the same time offering a wonderful blend of traditional and advanced modern services with an exotic twist.

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The owner of Fleur de Lys Medispa is none other than Linda Wehbi, a qualified aesthetician and APAN member who was originally from Lebanon and therefore could authentically introduce a MiddleEastern cultural theme to her spa.

Linda was excited that at last her dream had come true with the launch of her own spa after having worked for several years from a home-based business.

I am sure you would agree that undertaking such a venture during difficult economic times is very brave, but it also reveals how passion and commitment can rise and overcome any obstacle. I asked Linda whether she was nervous about this venture. "I am both nervous and excited," she responded, "but I am also committed to bringing something fresh and new to regular and potential new clients, offering them an unforgettable experience, while giving them the very best possible results in skin and body treatments." Here is Linda's response to some of the questions we have given her:

Hammam Room Fleur De Lys Medispa Signature Room

APJ 1. Linda, when did you train as a Beauty Therapist and what other qualifications do you hold?

Linda: I studied beauty therapy at The GRE College for Scientific Beauty Culture in Sydney where I attained the Dux of the Year Award.

I also hold a Bachelor of Arts and Education from Sydney University.

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APJ 2. From a home-based business what motivated you to launch into a Medispa?

Linda: I have always loved helping people to look and feel beautiful and I have also always believed that this is best achieved when you offer each person a very personalised treatment, or treatment plan that perfectly meets their needs. The feedback and support I received from my clients as a result of this very personalised approach have been very rewarding and have made me realise that I can continue to give even more. Furthermore, time and time again my clients confirmed to me how much they appreciated the extra attention to detail I gave through my services such as my pedicures, facials and advanced skin treatments.

To branch out to the next level I once again wanted something very different. I did not want to have a Medispa that was just like any other spa out there. I have many clients, friends and family who come to see me when they want to get away from the stress of their everyday life, be it work, family commitments, children, etc. I therefore wanted to create a place that could be a sanctuary for people to escape to and walk out of feeling re-energised, revitalised, replenished and absolutely beautiful. So, basically this is what motivated me to launch into a Medispa with a unique theme.

APJ 3. What is the theme of your spa and what does it offer that will make it unique?

Linda: I have a Moroccan theme running throughout the spa, which

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offers a unique experience to my clients who are treated like my special guests. We offer a vast variety of treatment options, but the most exotic is our exclusive 24-carat pure Gold Facial Treatment and the Moroccan Hammam experience.

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Amber Room APJ 4. Tell us a little more about the Hammam?

Where did they originate from and why did you choose to introduce it to your clients?

Linda: The Hammam, or "bathhouse" as the word is interpreted, has its roots all the way back to the Roman Empire. Roman bathhouses were quite humble and were utilised for their cleansing and healing properties, but also as meeting places and for social activities. The Hammam concept was developed over the centuries in Arabia and particularly in Northern Africa, and of course, most notably in Turkey and Morocco. In Morocco the Hammam became a part of its culture, in particular due to its therapeutic benefits and the elegance of the Hammams, which became meeting places and an important part of social activities. The magic of the authentic oils, henna, masks and perfumes offered a unique experience and attracted men and women who wanted to be more enticing to the opposite sex.

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I have always been intrigued by the therapeutic benefits of the Hammam and enchanted by the aromas of the oils as well as their healing and therapeutic properties. Having read about the Moroccan Hammam and its benefits, as well as having seen its popularity around the world, particularly in Dubai and North Africa, I felt that Sydney was missing out on indulging in this ultimate therapeutic experience.

For this reason I chose to introduce it in Fleur de Lys Medispa.

APJ 5. What other services do you offer?

Linda: We are a one-stop centre for all our clients' grooming, skin and body needs. We offer everything from luxurious spa manicures and pedicures, ultrasonic hand treatment, waxing and facial treatments.

We also offer anti-ageing and corrective skin therapies, which we achieve with advanced technologies such as IPL, microdermabrasion, advanced peels, oxygen therapy, LED therapy and Far-Infrared Sauna. ㄰

APJ 6. You recently had a promotional launch on Tuesday – how did this go?

Linda: The launch was a great success. My team and I were fortunate to share the night with new and old clients, friends and many other wonderful people in the media who loved what Fleur de Lys Medispa was offering and wanted to be a part of its launch. The night was filled with beautiful people, beautiful food and most importantly, offered beautiful complimentary treatments that were enjoyed by those who were in attendance.

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Fleur de Lys Medispa Promotional Night

24-carat pure Gold Facial Treatment Linda (centre) with guests APJ 7. Tell us a little about your staff and the expertise they will bring to your clients?

Linda: My therapists are highly trained in all aspects of aesthetics.

We also have nurses, massage therapists and laser therapists who are highly qualified with great experience and will bring a high level of service to our clients.

APJ 8. What is your vision for the future – where do you want to go with Fleur de Lys Medispa?

Linda: Fleur de Lys Medispa's first goal is to educate our clients on the importance of looking after their skin, their health and wellness, and to assisting them to achieve a new level of result coupled with an incredible experience. Our vision is to continue to be the first to offer the latest and very best services and treatments for the benefit of our clients in a blissful and most unique environment. Once we have achieved this, we can look for further developments into the future.

Billy Johnston, Ivy Heeney, Linda Wehbi, Eli Wihbe Linda: If you love something don't hold back, just do it!

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APJ 9. Were you at all nervous about starting such a venture and what made you push through?

Linda: Of course I was, and still am. However, I have the full support

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of my husband, my children and my family, and this has been amazing. They believed in my vision for Fleur de Lys Medispa and that is so important to me so that I can keep going.

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APJ 10. What advice would you give your colleagues about stepping out do achieve their dreams?

Check out the beautiful Fleur de Lys Medispa treatment menu on their website. It will leave you truly amazed!

You can visit Fleur de Lys Medispa by phoning: (02) 9361 4441, email: relax@fleurdelysmedispa.com.au web: www.fleurdelysmedispa.com.au 2A Queens St., Woollahra NSW 2025

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APJ 29

science of beauty

Is Beauty an Inside Job?

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Dr Dzung Price As aesthetic therapists we know the very best of what is available in terms of products and treatments for the skin. However, how often do we also suffer not only from poor skin, but also other ailments that compromise our health and our appearance? Dr Dzung Price is a medical practitioner who also practises alternative medicine. This article identifies valuable lifestyle changes that can often optimise our health, restore our energy, and improve our quality of life as well as our appearance. Much of what is presented in this article is now scientifically validated and holds the key to prevention and longevity.

For many people, your skin is your calling card. People tend to look first at someone's face when meeting them. Outer beauty serves as a proxy of how healthy you are. Ultimately, your skin communicates messages about your health, your vibrancy and your youthfulness.

When you are seriously fatigued, stressed, depressed or not eating properly, your skin also reflects this as more wrinkles, fatigued, blemished or pigmented. In fact, the skin does not lie. Inner health and outer beauty are inseparable. A clear complexion aglow with radiant inner beauty starts with healthy skin, and healthy skin begins within and works from the inside out. Let's face it: Skin sells.

However, beauty isn't some vain and superficial pursuit designed to sell products, produce drool and make heads turn. Beauty is actually precisely perceived, purposeful and rooted more in hard science than in abstract and random opinion. Evolution and society has pushed us to be more beautiful. And that's why beauty serves as the foundation of our feelings, our happiness and our existence. Beauty is almost always on everybody's mind, consciously or not. It drives many of the decisions you make about exercise and eating, new weight-loss programs, cosmetic procedures, and determines how you choose between that black skirt and the white pants.

At the end of the day, beauty – is health – good mental, physical and emotional health and vibrant energy. Beauty is about how we look, feel and how we define our lives. We radiate beauty when we feel good about ourselves, when we have strong self-esteem and a healthy, energetic existence that allows us to live a purposeful, authentic, spirit-rich life. Isn't that what feeling beautiful is about – having passion for life and the energy to act out that passion?

On the biology of beauty, I'm going to share with you some of the basics tools that we can utilise to help us make better choices and actions to be your most beautiful energetic self.

YOUR ENERGY AND HORMONES IN CRISIS

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We know what happens when there's an energy crisis. Think of a citywide blackout. One small problem can trigger a domino effect.

That's what happens when you wake up and realise you can't maintain your energy system, you turn to stimulants, and sugar and coffee, to just keep going. Once your resiliency is gone, you're prone to being invaded by bacteria, virus or fungi. Even the ensuing insomnia and stress that come as a result of those invasions can cause adrenal fatigue, creating a vicious cycle where smaller problems can progressively cause larger challenges until you experience a complete health shutdown. These kinds of massive energy drops are ultimately an energy crisis in your body that play out in many different ways.

They can result in low energy, digestive problems, hair loss, hormonal imbalance, insomnia, to high pain in muscles or joints. The result is that you will feel as beautiful as a wart-dotted hairless cat.

So what starts the process that steals your energy and vitality? What

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sets up the dominos and what causes your first domino to fall? Our body's natural inclination is to heal, as long as we provide the right environment, building blocks and remove all interferences. I believe that all illness is due to excessive stress and tension in the body, whether physical, mental or emotional. Some of the big physical causes that impact on your cellular energy capacity and beauty are as follows:

1. HORMONAL IMBALANCE AND INSULIN RESISTANCE There is a strong association between hormonal issues and energy issues. Stress causes increases in cortisol, which increases sugar in the bloodstream and insulin resistance – and wastes energy in distributing sugar into fat instead of where it is needed to produce ATP. Low thyroid or low adrenals can significantly impact on your energy levels as well as your beauty. Optimising the health of your adrenals and thyroid with key nutrients, a comprehensive detoxification program, or natural bio-identical hormones such as natural thyroid extract or DHEA, can do wonders in this area.

2. CALCIFICATION Calcification is one of the most pervasive, yet least understood conditions on the planet. Calcification attacks our body constantly and plagues all areas of our body, including the brain, eyes, heart, circulatory system, digestive system, endocrine systems, etc. breasts, gums, skin and bones. Calcification is the major factor in why we age, why our joints feel stiff, why we have inflammation, and why we are tired.

Research indicates shell-forming, virus-sized, coral-like organisms are causative agents in calcification. They are approximately 1/100 the size of normal bacteria. These organisms are known in medical journal science as nano-bacteria. These calcium-forming organisms are part of Mother Nature's recycling system. Nano-bacteria trap toxins such as heavy metals, pesticides and plastics within their shell, which are incorporated into the "bad calcium" they create, shielding it from our immune system against their removal. In order to avoid ageing, we have to avoid becoming silted up with calcium-forming organisms and/or their shells. We have to avoid consuming dead calcium supplements that are mineral residues from the earth, coral residues, or oyster shells, all of which make the calcification much worse. Most calcium supplements cause calcification. They act like sand in the gears of our tissues. They are deposited in the body as sediment, and cause ageing and do not benefit our bones. Get good calcium instead from green leafy vegetable sources (vegetables, pith of citrus fruits, carob, mesquite, wheat grass, and raw dairy products if you have the enzymes to digest them). These sources are essential for detoxification, muscle relaxation, lowering tension and creating alkalinity. To increase our bone density, we need to consume the minerals silicon and magnesium, which can biologically trans-mutate into calcium in the bones, not calcium.

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3. CHRONIC INFECTIONS

6. TOXINS:

Hidden viruses, fungus, parasites, bacteria can invade a weakened and stressed-out body. Viral particles have been identified in the nuclei and mitochondria of many people with serious energy deficits like fibromyalgia. Many people harbour hidden parasites and candida organisms unknowingly with very little symptoms apart from chronic low energy and a drawn-out complexion. When in doubt, check it out.

Unfortunately, many hidden toxins have crept silently into our homes like a Trojan horse, invading our food, water, environment and personal care products. We succumb to the powerful advertising by clever marketing that promote products that look good, taste good, smell good and are presented in great packaging. These often contain man-made foreign ingredients that the body does not recognise and cannot process, so they act like oestrogens, leading to inevitable hormonal disruption, allergies and sensitivities, fatigue and accumulated cellular toxic load. These toxins overwhelm our natural ability to detoxify and eliminate via excretory organs such as our gut, liver and kidneys, leading to cellular intoxication, chronic inflammation and chronic disease.

4. SLEEP PROBLEMS Adequate sleep is important for not only feeling beautiful, but for also allowing you to secrete maximal growth hormone to rejuvenate and repair your cells, rests your immune system and refreshes the neurotransmitters you have that normally suppress pain as well as refuels the energy tank. For many people, insomnia is caused by our unhealthy habits of late nights, liver toxicity issues (wakes you up at 1-3:00am), mental stress, electromagnetic devices in the bedroom and hormonal changes such as menopause.

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As we grow older, our hormone levels begin to change, resulting in fluctuating energy and thinner, more fragile skin for men and women.

With advancing age, increased body toxicity and the drop in hormone activity in both men and women cause their skin to lose its fullness, become dry and thin, resulting in fine wrinkles, loss of elastin and structural support. Studies clearly demonstrate that hormones such as oestrogen, progesterone, DHEA and testosterone affect the texture and appearance of the skin, and an imbalance of these hormones results in complexion problems as well as a variety of health complaints. Speak to your doctor about natural bio-identical hormone replacement and optimise your nutrition to support hormonal balance.

Even the hidden, unrecognised dangers of our increasing exposure to harmful electro-magnetic radiation from our love affair with wireless technologies, mobile phone devices, PCs, microwaves, etc. are disregarded and ignored. In the past 5-7 years of clinical practice, I have had to deal with an increasing number of electro-sensitive patients who can no longer tolerate the immuno-suppressive effects of electromagnetic devices and wireless technologies, prompting me to research extensively a number of EMF protection solutions for my patients.

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Struggles with unbalanced hormone levels, low energy, chronic pain, digestive issues can be a thing of the past. I have treated many women who suffer from PMS, menopause, low thyroid condition, adrenal fatigue, endometriosis, polycystic disease, irritable bowels, etc. to gain control of their hormone levels, recharge their energy and vitality as well as witnessing a massive improvement in their complexions.

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APJ 31

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Here is my natural Hormone Balancing and Beauty Plan to help you feel your best and improve your complexion. Incorporate the following specific suggestions into your life:

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Reduce the build-up of arachidonic acid and prostaglandin 2 (both pro-inflammatory) in your skin cells by reducing your intake of amount of animal fat, refined sugars and dairy products in your diet. Replace corn, sunflower seed, safflower seed and mixed vegetable oils with olive oil and coconut oil.

For vibrant skin, sulphur-residue foods should be eaten.

Sulphur is "the beauty mineral" and provides smoothness and shine to the skin. Sulphur is found in aloe vera, cruciferous vegetables, ripe bell peppers, onions, garlic and MSM powder.

For beautiful, glowing skin, eat plenty of foods rich in silicon (cucumbers, horsetail herb, nettles, lettuce, radishes, nopales etc). Silicon-residue foods help to restore the elastic skin of youth.

Supplement your diet with a combination of borage, flaxseed and fish oils – 30% EPA and 20% DHA – to increase the production of prostaglandin hormones PG-1 and PG-3 within your skin cells.

Consume more cruciferous vegetables such as cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and bok choy.

Cruciferous vegetables increase oestrogen detoxification in the liver, and the indole-3-carbionol constituents in these foods act as a phytoestrogens, helping to reduce the effects of the body's more powerful estrogens on female reproductive tissues. Super greens (wheat grass, barley green) and MACA powder can also help with alkalising and hormonal balance.

Take detoxifying and liver-boosting herbs and remedies to speed up the elimination of excess oestrogen from the bloodstream, as well as toxins from the tissues. These may include milk thistle, dandelion, indole-3-carbinole, astragalus, reishi mushroom extract as well as homeopathic detoxification and drainage remedies to clean up the extracellular matrix.

Drink at least 6-8 glasses of pure filtered or spring water each day to keep your skin hydrated from the inside out.

Take a female hormonal support that contains black cohosh, isoflavones, vitex agnus, if you have hot flushes or PMS. Nourish your skin cells each day with antioxidants-rich foods (rainbow diet) and B vitamins required to promote the PG-1 and PG-3 production (which makes the skin smooth and soft), reduce free radical damage that causes skin wrinkles, ageing and cancer; and help boost detoxification activities. Take highpotency multivitamin and mineral supplements containing B complex, vitamin E from natural sources, magnesium and all nutrients from vitamin A to zinc.

Exercise 3-6 times per week. Aerobic exercise increases blood flow through the liver, enabling liver cells to more efficiently remove excess oestrogen from the circulation.

If you have low thyroid, add in liberal amounts of iodine from kelp seaweed, maca root powder and raw coconut oil to correct low thyroid states. Sunlight on the skin has been shown to stimulate the thyroid to increase hormone production.

Removing seed oils from your diet and removing internal toxicity such as heavy metals, pesticides and chemicals, etc can help thyroid imbalances. Consume adequate protein and amino acids to ensure optimal liver detoxification, neurotransmitter production and support thyroid and adrenal function.

For an excellent skin-complexion pack, try rubbing one or more of the following items against the skin two to four times a week: papaya pulp, avocado, cucumber, spirulina, and aloe vera.

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Natural energy-rich live foods beautify the body, mind and spirit.

They carry with them the vitality of health and life – the sun’s energy that nourishes all life on earth. By taking in the energy of high vibrant foods, good positive thoughts, and systematically removing as much toxic load as possible, you can overcome all health challenges and improve your life in every way. When your health improves, every other aspect of your life improves simultaneously and you will glow with an inner beauty that no cosmetic creams or procedures can replicate.

Dr Dzung Price is a holistic integrated medical practitioner with qualifications in Nutrition and Environmental Medicine, Naturopathy, Acupuncture, Bio-energetic Medicine and Homotoxicology. Using this comprehensive array of healing modalities, cutting edge medical technology and self-empowerment solutions, Dzung works to address the root causes of disease and the lack of wellness in her patients. Working closely with a talented team, Dzung's approach is to restore optimal health by removing the obstacles so that the body creates agelessness and wellness in mind, body and spirit through clinics in Brisbane and on the Gold Coast.

Dzung is well known for her groundbreaking work in the field of allergy medicine and nutrition. She is the author of "Your Allergy Free Child", "7 Day Detox Guide" and "Younger, Healthier Skin at Any Age". She is the co-founder of CHI Health Innovations, a company devoted to the provision of bio-energised natural health products for wellness and beauty. www.chihealthinnovations.com

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Of all the tools we need to succeed in life and business often the most important ones lie within us. This is why regularly I look to present in APJ an attribute that gives us fortitude and allows us to access strength from our internal resources. One of these wonderful attributes is tenacity. Tenacity can be defined as doggedness, persistent or determination. It means to stick with something against all odds, without giving up or surrendering to defeat. How can tenacity play a pivotal role in helping us achieve? Let's look at it in action.

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You have your plans and you are reaching for your goal.

It is difficult, but you are pressing on. There is nothing that can stop you from reaching your final destination.

Then out of nowhere something unexpected happens that throws you off course. It may be a break-up of a relationship, you have lost a staff member, an accident that has set you back – something unexpected. The event challenges you at your core. It may even make you feel momentarily insecure. So where do you go to from here?

Can you still continue on course as if nothing happened?

Athletes talk about how they go over the plays in their mind before the game. What moves would I take and what mental attitude do I need when the ball finally falls is my hand? That is a question that needs to be answered to prepare before the game starts.

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So out of nowhere comes this event and you find yourself looking at your goal moving away from you. It has moved further away than it was before the unfortunate event. You are experiencing a setback. Instead of moving forward, you have moved backwards. In fact, from this new position you cannot see a way to take you back to your goal. At this point many people throw up their hands and give up. Giving up comes naturally. There is no real effort required to give up. But, at this point you need to ask yourself, "Am I ready to give up? Is this what I really want to do, or am I ready to do what it takes to see the situation change?"

The value of Tenacity when the going is tough

by Tina Viney Success in life comes not from holding a good hand, but from playing a poor hand well. Denis Waitley There are many people who have been knocked off course, but yet managed to reach their goals. History is filled with courageous men and women who were not deterred by events that were intended to destroy their dreams. What is it that helped them succeed in spite of the hindrances? Perhaps it is tenacity.

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Another definition of tenacity is "holding fast with persistent determination". However, I like to define it as resurrecting the "fight in you". It is the willingness to stick with something even when the going gets tough. Whatever you believe in, whatever you are reaching for, you must be willing to fight for it. Many times we tend to believe that our goals are there for the taking and it is just a matter of going after them. But that is not always the case. Some goals require fighting for.

If you want to see tenacity in visual action, I suggest you rent the movie The Pursuit of Happiness with Will Smith, who plays the character of Chris Gardner. In fact, if you know someone who is just

starting out on a business venture or some other journey, recommend that they watch this movie. This movie is about tenacity! Tenacity does not stay down when knocked down. It gets right back up, even if it is to be knocked right back down again! Tenacity does not quit until it reaches the finish line. In the movie you will be able to recognise when that finish line has been crossed. That is where the fight has ended.

If something comes your way that knocks you off course, do you discard your plans and throw up your hands, or do you look for a reason and a means to get up again and stay on course? It may require making some adjustments to your current plans, but do not give up. If your goal is worth anything it is worth fighting for.

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As human beings and in particular women, we sometimes have a level of emotional vulnerability, but it's what we do with our emotions that will allow us to conquer our fears and reservations. We can equally turn things around if we choose to review, assess and determine to put all our efforts, emotional drive, thoughts and plans right back on track again.

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Many businesses have failed and many relationships have been broken because of a lack of willingness to fight. So to help prepare yourself to press on regardless of what comes your way, ask yourself an interesting question, "What would I do if I was in a ball game and the ball was in my hands, but the going was not looking good? Would I consider running off the field and sitting on the bench, or would I look to my internal reserve to help me bypass the challenge?" Just because you have set goals does not mean that you will not experience setbacks. You can put all the right strategies in place, but setbacks will come, and when they do it will be the wisdom and courage to see the silver lining on the cloud that will propel you forward.

GUARD YOUR HEART In ancient Greek marathons a torch was handed to each runner at the starting line. To win, they had to cross the finishing line with their torch still burning. The torch race was a tough one that led through mountains and valleys. Doubtless there were times when others would pass you by, when your strength would fail, when you lost your way and had to get back on track, or stumbled and had to get back up. What counted in this race was not style but staying power.

I once heard a wise statement that said, "Your words are your thoughts clothed in language".

Feeding your heart with courage and tenacity will require that you focus on positive thoughts that will help build courage. Meditate on thoughts that can fuel your passion and your inner fortitude. Studies reveal that achievers are, as a basic rule, positive thinkers. Get rid of negativity in your life – let go of disappointments and focus on thoughts that can help you come up with creative ideas on how to move forward.

SIMPLIFY YOUR LIFE Dr Dzung Price, who is also a contributing writer to this journal, is a positive woman that I admire. In one of her recent newsletters she talked about uncluttering your life and the value of simplification. She talked about the feeling of freedom she felt after one day deciding that paperwork that was sitting on her desk for some time just needed to be "chucked out" and in one sweep she cleared her desk. Sometimes we hold on to things when in actual fact we can survive without them as all they do is add to our workload and slow us down.

One of the keys to staying focused on what is important is the importance of simplifying your life.

Keeping your mind on what's important for you requires simplification, and simplification means trade-offs. It means saying no to certain things you'd like to do. If you don't choose what trade-offs you make, someone else will. The "Pareto Principle" teaches that 20 per cent of your effort produces 80 per cent of your success. So identify your 20 per cent and stay there. Either delegate the rest or let it go.

Here are some questions that can help you unclutter your life: 1. What takes up most of your time and energy? Determine what is redundant and repetitive or if there is a simpler way of achieve the results you want in less time and with less effort.

2. Are you maximising your strengths? Often when we are in business for ourselves, we tend to want to control everything and do everything ourselves. However, this may not be cost effective. One example is bookkeeping. Hiring an efficient and fast bookkeeper for a couple of hours a week can take care of this concern and free you to do things that you are better at. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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3. Are you spreading yourself out too thinly? This can deplete you of your energy, not to mention it can compromise the quality of what you are doing because of insufficient time to finish things correctly. Let go of things that are not important and attempt to simplify your life. Maybe certain projects you are working on need to be reviewed at a later date when you can give them your full attention.

Tenacity does not mean to only fight harder in order to say on course, it also requires that you fight smarter by identifying what is important and letting go of some things. It is the wisdom of this balance that will help you navigate through difficult times and steer you to the path of recovery and ultimate victory. It's amazing how much we can control our destiny simply by the choices we make.

HERE ARE SOME INSPIRATIONAL EXAMPLES There are unique challenges to starting and running a business in tough economic times, but those who stick with it will emerge stronger than ever. Need proof? Here are just a few notable businesses that started during financial crises. Each faced difficulties and doubt in the beginning, but emerged to become household names and worldwide leaders.

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Hyatt: The first Hyatt hotel opened its doors in Los Angeles during the Eisenhower recession of the late 1950s. Through planning and resiliency, the Hyatt Corporation has continued to grow and now operates more than 300 hotels around the world.

FedEx: When Frederick W. Smith decided to start a delivery company for time-sensitive documents, he couldn't have picked a more difficult time. Oil embargoes in the 1970s sharply affected the company's operations, but they persevered and have today become an internationally recognised symbol of reliability, shipping over six million items a day all over the world!

Microsoft: Perhaps one of the most classic examples of tenacious success, Bill Gates dropped out of Harvard and started Microsoft in 1975. Money was tight and success did not come immediately. Eventually rising from its humble roots in Albuquerque, New Mexico, Microsoft now brings in billions in revenue each year.

Sports Illustrated: The legendary magazine we all know as Sports Illustrated was launched during the summer of 1954.

Founded on the tail-end of a recession, Sports Illustrated was able to capitalise on the massive growth of professional sports which followed.

Procter & Gamble: William Procter and James Gamble, who were brothers-in-law, started Procter & Gamble during the Panic of 1837. With money in short supply and the nation mired in the worst economic decline up to that time, their household goods business survived and has become a billion dollar powerhouse.

IBM: Three separate companies, the Tabulating Machine Company, the International Time Recording Company and the Computing Scale Corporation, started during the Long Depression of 1873-1896.

Demonstrating tenacity indicative of the times, they endured two U.S. bank collapses and merged in 1911, later becoming known as IBM. Source pmiopportunity.com

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Ageing NOT as we know it

by Stephen Eddey, Principal, Health Schools Australia M.H.Sc.,B.H.Sc.,Dip.App.Sc.,Ass.Dip.App.Sc.

Most of us think that ageing happens as our birthdays run by. We all assume that there is nothing we can do about it and it is just a fact of life. I have been in conversations with people at the gym complaining that as their knees are hurting, they can't do as much exercise, which they attribute to ageing. As a clinician, I have spoken to many men and women who contribute their physical and mental decay to the ravages of ageing. The fact of the matter is that nothing could be further from the truth.

OPTIMAL WELLNESS I don't think there is a person on earth that doesn't want optimal wellness. The problem is that we typically don't want to do the work to obtain it. This article focuses on the achievable and modifiable factors that drive the ageing process and real, practical solutions to retard and reverse the ageing process.

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We really need to eat what our bodies are designed for. Of course, this includes eating plenty of vegies, fruits, salads, nuts, seeds, legumes, fish, eggs, grass-fed beef and poultry. One fact that is not often discussed, with regards to ageing, is Australia's unhealthy obsession with the consumption of grains. Grains contain 50-80% 'complex' carbohydrate, which when digested turns into sugar in the body. Thus, 200g of pasta equals about 150g of sugar or 3 cans of Coke! Sugars in the blood then stick to proteins and form Advanced Glycosilated End products, or AGEs as they are known. These are toxic in excessive amounts, and as the name suggest (AGEs) leads to premature ageing itself.

INACTIVITY AGES THE BODY One of the most stressful things you can do to your body is not exercise it. Recent research has shown that physical activity (PA) is associated with overall successful ageing (SA). A cross-sectional populationbased cohort study investigated SA in adults aged 60 years+. The results showed that, compared to those who were PA, physical inactivity was a much stronger predictor of functional limitations than either chronic disease or being socially unengaged with life. The recent study concluded by saying that PA, even at moderate levels, is an efficient way of optimising biopsychosocial health, particularly functional health in later life, and promotes successful ageing.

HORMONES Some experts in the field of bioidential hormonal replacement therapy (BHRT) believe that ageing itself, and more importantly the diseases associated with typical ageing, are related to the levels of hormones in the body. To give one example, there is no more worrying disease associated with ageing that Alzheimer's disease. In a recent study (published August 2010), 153 men had their bioavailable testosterone levels checked and then they were followed to monitor the progression of their mental health, in particular in relation to Alzheimer's disease. The conclusion of the study stated that "the baseline serum BT level predicted a reduced risk of Alzheimer's Disease". This is a simple blood test men can have done by their GP, which can predict their likelihood of developing Alzheimer's disease.

The great thing is that if you do have lowered levels, there is something you can do about it, before it is too late. The 'side effects' of optimising testosterone in men is that not only does their brain function better, they will also have reduced fat mass, increased muscle

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mass, improved cardiac function and, well, improvements in the bedroom also!

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OESTROGEN (OESTRADIOL) PROTECTS A WOMAN'S AGEING BRAIN In women, Oestradiol is a fundamental anti-ageing hormone. It is well documented to improve a woman's skin, body shape and heart health. Unfortunately, synthetic hormones (such as the traditional HRT) don't help in these areas, and is also well documented to harm heart health and brain function. In keeping with the Alzheimer's theme, Oestradiol has been shown in several studies to reduce the levels of brain plaques, which are associated with Alzheimer's disease. In a recent study, this was found to be the case.

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CONCLUSION

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As a practitioner, it amazes me how much effort people go to prevent death once they are diagnosed with an age-related disease such as heart disease, cancer and Alzheimer's disease, yet simple preventative measures such as a change in diet, exercise or a hormone test are avoided like the plague! The time to prevent agerelated decline is now and not when you are diagnosed with a disease.

HOW TO BALANCE HORMONES NATURALLY Measuring hormonal health is one of the most important things you can achieve for your wellness. While the best way to balance your hormones naturally is to seek advice from a fully qualified Natural Therapist who works in this area and visit www.tellmeabouthormones.com.au. There are some simple nutrients, which have been found to positively affect hormone levels:

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Chaste tree: thought to increase progesterone production indirectly, has a beneficial effect on the female reproductive system and may be useful in supporting a number of problems associated with the menstrual cycle. May also bring relief from hot flashes, dryness and other symptoms associated with menopause, as well as improve sleep.

Iodine: is found in dairy products, seafood, kelp, eggs, some vegetables and iodised salt, and is important for essential hormone development in the body.

Nettle: boosting free testosterone.

Resveratrol: a powerful antioxidant that boosts testosterone levels.

Saw palmetto: is rich in fatty acids and phytosterols, and may improve the symptoms of benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH).

Tribulus: acts as an aphrodisiac and may increase the production of free testosterone.

Selenium: important for the reproductive health in both men and women. In men, it has been found to increase sperm and boost testosterone production.

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REFERENCES 1. Meisner BA, Dogra S, Logan AJ, Baker J, Weir PL. Do or decline?: comparing the effects of physical inactivity on biopsychosocial components of successful aging. J Health Psychol. 2010 Jul; 15(5): 68896.

2. Chu LW, Tam S, Wong RL, Yik PY, Song Y, Cheung BM, Morley JE, Lam KS. J Alzheimers Dis. 2010 Aug 6. Bioavailable Testosterone Predicts a Lower Risk of Alzheimer's Disease in Older Men. 3. Amtul Z, Wang L, Westaway D, Rozmahel RF.Neuroscience. 2010 Aug 25; 169(2): 781-6. e-pub 2010 May 21. Neuroprotective mechanism conferred by 17beta-estradiol on the biochemical basis of Alzheimer's disease.

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The latest facts on Parabens in cosmetics Gaëlla Azzi Research and Development Biotechnologist Europelab Europe Cosmetiques Inc. The use of parabens in cosmetics have come under attack during the past 10-15 years due to their reported link to breast cancer. This report presented by biotechnologist Gaëla Azzi from Europelab attempts to present some facts that shed interesting light on the subject.

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Recognised by all major cosmetics laboratories as the most effective and the best tolerated preservatives, parabens have been commonly used in pharmaceutical, food and cosmetic industries for over 70 years. Today, more than 80% of cosmetic products contain parabens, including creams, shampoos, shower gels, makeup, deodorants, toothpastes, lotions and shaving cream.

“Paraben free, preservatives free..." That is the selling point used by many "natural" and "organic" cosmetic brands to market their products. They play on the bad reputation of those preservatives using these misleading terms to sell products that are not necessarily better than others. With all this being said, are parabens as dangerous as alleged?

A public debate was triggered in Europe in 2004 over the use of parabens in cosmetics. Since then parabens have been the most judged preservatives and the most controversial.

WHAT ARE PARABENS?

However, between 2004 and today the use of parabens has not decreased. The FDA in the US, the European Commission and the Australian and Japanese Ministries of Health continue to authorise and approve the use of parabens after a series of studies showed no significant signs of possible harm in cosmetic products.

Parabens are a family of esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Parabens most commonly used are: methylparaben (E218), ethylparaben (E214), propylparaben (E216) and butylparaben. The least common parabens are isobutylparaben and isopropylparaben.

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Parabens are present almost everywhere. They are found in strawberry, raspberry, peach, carrot, onion, white bean, vanilla, cucumber, olive, etc. They are antimicrobial, antibacterial and

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antifungal, which are effective protective agents. They are also found in animals and insects in the mucous membranes where they act as antibacterial. In humans, the para-hydroxybenzoate (parabens) is a precursor of coenzyme Q10, an essential element of energetic metabolism.

Parabens are used in your food every day and are legislated under the codes from E 214 to E 219. They are used by pharmaceutical companies and legislated medications like baby's syrup and many others for over 70 years and continue to be the safest and most stable.

Subsequently, they are extracted and synthesised for industrial use because they have replaced toxic and carcinogenic substances formerly used in cosmetic formulations such as formaldehyde.

They are preservatives that are more effective and better tolerated by the skin. Even those who are allergic to parabens tolerate it.

THE CONTROVERSY SURROUNDING PARABENS The controversy began in 2004 following three articles published in the British Journal of Applied Toxicology by Philippa Darbre, an oncologist who brought to the public a relationship between parabens and breast cancer.

Without confirming if these women had parabens in their blood, 20 women with breast cancer participated in a study on parabens where 18 of them had a concentration ratio of parabens from 2 to 12 nanograms per gram of tumour.

Dr Darbre subsequently issued the following assumptions: The ingredients used in deodorants and applied daily to the armpits can be linked to breast cancer. Parabens found in deodorants may play a role in the development of breast cancer found in tumour tissues and have an "oestrogen-like" effect, meaning they have an activity similar to that of oestrogen. Background: Breast cancer is hormone-dependent and it is the action of oestrogen that activates mutated genes responsible for the degeneration of cells that evolves into cancer cells.

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The Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP), under the European Commission, in January 2005 issued a clear notice that there is no causal relationship between the use of deodorants and breast cancer. The Federal Drug Administration in the USA estimated that currently there is no reason why the use of cosmetics containing parabens should concern consumers. Quite the contrary, the NICNAS (National Industrial Chemicals Notification and Assessment Scheme established in April 2009) stated that "Parabens in cosmetic products

Parabens are present almost everywhere. They are found in strawberry, raspberry, peach, carrot, onion, white bean, vanilla, cucumber, olive, etc. They are antimicrobial, antibacterial and antifungal, which are effective protective agents. They are also found in animals and insects in the mucous membranes where they act as antibacterial. In humans, the parahydroxybenzoate (parabens) is a precursor of coenzyme Q10, an essential element of energetic metabolism.

This study was immediately taken up by the media – television, radio, newspaper articles and the Internet, who misinterpreted and exaggerated the study. They spread the idea of a relationship between parabens used in cosmetics and the development of breast cancer.

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Immediately after the media broadcasting the international health authorities ordered studies to take place to test all potential hypotheses. The various studies on this subject conducted by committees of scientific experts have revealed the following: !

Parabens found in cosmetics can go no deeper than the stratum corneum (the superficial layer of the epidermis) !

The affinity of parabens for oestrogen receptors is very low and much lower than that of phyto-oestrogens (like soy) and other agents such as certain pesticides with oestrogenic effect. !

The effect on the cells is not conclusive !

Scientific studies were performed at elevated levels unrelated to the reality of the application of cosmetics !

No studies on human populations demonstrate a link between the development of breast cancer and parabens used in cosmetics !

The toxicity, sensitisation and mutagenicity of parabens are very good compared to many other preservatives !

Parabens have been used for more than 70 years in cosmetics with minor side-effects

However, the studies done by Dr. Darbre have been heavily criticised by the scientific community. Critics have said the following: !

Dr. Darbre suggests that some control measures are inadequate !

The number of subjects was considered low (20 people) and there was no control group. The fact is that no test can show where the paraben concentration is observed in healthy women who regularly use cosmetics containing parabens. !

The possible link between parabens and breast cancer development is only a hypothesis and not a proven fact. !

Other natural substances have an oestrogen-like effect, including soybean and the contraceptive pill, but their potential effects are not mentioned.

are considered safe" and are the best preservatives in cosmetics if they are used as instructed.

PARABEN-FREE, PRESERVATIVE FREE – THE CLAIMS AND WARNING From the moment a cosmetic product contains 8 per cent of water, preservative must be added. This is why cosmetics powder is deprived from preservatives. After opening a cosmetic it is vulnerable to bacterial proliferation by environmental conditions (temperature, humidity, pH) and by its user. Protecting the consumer while ensuring the sustainable stability of the product is the goal of preservatives.

The few cases that fuelled the controversy a few years ago have mainly contributed to some laboratories that took advantage of the situation and proposed "alternatives". Observations revealed that products with labels that stated "organic" or "Paraben-FREE" have seen their sales skyrocket, while those posting "without paraben" also saw an increase in their sales.

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Without a system of conservation the use of cosmetic products contaminated with pathogenic microorganisms is much more dangerous than the possible effect of real preservatives in cosmetics. Even with empty packaging in unit doses it is essential to preserve the product, because its ingredients are not sterile.

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In reality, brands that indicate "preservative free" are using ingredients not listed in the official list of recognised and permitted preservatives by all governments.

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PARABEN-FREE The reasons that led to the withdrawal of parabens in cosmetics are not for scientific reasons, but for commercial reasons. Indeed, some manufacturers believe that it is cheaper to remove parabens from their products to adapt to the public's unfounded opinion and maintain their market presence.

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The words "preservative free" do not mean that no conservatives have been used to formulate the product.

Cosmetic brands advocating the words "preservative free" contain preservative systems for the products containing more than eight per cent water.

In conclusion, parabens in controlled form are now returning into the cosmetic industry for good reasons, and most importantly, for the assured safety of the consumers.

For this reason some manufacturers opt for alternative preservatives to replace parabens without concern as to their safety. Consider these alternatives: !

Organic halogen compounds: These compounds are much more dangerous than parabens and are highly allergenic and very responsive. They can penetrate the tissues and cause long-term cellular damage. !

Formaldehyde derivatives: Despite the antibacterial efficacy of these compounds they have a high allergenic potential and carcinogen activity. !

Glycol ethers (phenoxyethanol): The toxicity of these preservatives has been demonstrated in many studies. The use of certain glycol ethers has been banned in cosmetics.

NATURAL AND ORGANIC PRODUCTS THAT CLAIM NO PRESERVATIVES

Recently, the French agency for sanitary security health products (AFSSAPS) investigated a few organic products. Some contained up to 5 per cent preservatives present in the natural ingredients (parabens, sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol, etc.) and two products were contaminated because they contained insufficient preservation and were considered harmful to the skin health of the end user.

The ideal preservative must be effective over a wide range of microorganisms, while having an action as a preservative and be compatible and stable for all formulations, while following the legislated doses proven by governments for safety. In this context parabens appear to be the ideal preservative because: Parabens act on a broad spectrum of effectiveness against ! microorganism fungus, bacteria and microbes, and have a pH ranging from 4 to 8.5 Parabens are compatible with a wide range of formula and ! actives Parabens are stable and durable against heat and the life span ! of the product Parabens are harmless and "safe" when used in the legislated ! concentrations and have been deemed non-toxic, nonirritating, no known side-effects for over 70 years If parabens should penetrate the skin they can be easily ! metabolised and eliminated from the body via the urine Parabens are biodegradable !

Parabens have been used for more than 70 years and are ! proven to be safe Parabens are regulated and approved worldwide by the FDA ! in the USA, the European Commission, and the Japanese and Australian Ministries of Health and Australian health and safety regulatory bodies

Every product containing microorganisms is damaging to use and may provide undesirable side-effects. They can even be dangerous to the skin and to your own health. That is why using a preservative to counteract these effects is essential.

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On the other hand, some preservatives with natural ingredients can be used by organic brands and/or "natural brands" and could be considered as systems of conservation for only specific products or simple formulation. The conservation properties of these ingredients are more limited than the true preservatives of the official government list and may have side-effects, unknown effect on the cells and potential damage, which must also be taken into account. For example these are commonly used ingredients: Extracts of grapefruit seed, bactericides, whose use is ! banned in Europe and Japan for security reasons Essential oils may cause severe allergies and cannot be ! used in high dosage as they may destroy the properties of the main actives ingredient in a cream, for example, even its ability to preserve Alcohol can cause drying of the skin and is not ! compatible with all formulas Vitamins E and C are often unstable and provide rancidity ! to the products when used in sufficient quantities

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APJ 40

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OSAINE TRAINING 13 SEPTEMBER 2010

19/08/10 2:25 PM

insurance ㄰

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The importance of an Insurance review with an EXPERT

by Sue Sparrow A number of people when contacted by their broker to organise an insurance review or given the opportunity of a complimentary review have the misconception that they are going to be “sold” more insurance and end up having to pay higher premiums.

Even more people will tell you they have insurance – they are covered.

However, when questioned as to the type of cover, what benefits and the levels of cover they have in place, they are unable to give an answer.

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When looking at your insurance cover, it is important to ask yourself certain questions. Here are some examples: ! In the event of a claim, will the correct person or entity receive the payment? ! Do you know that since your policy was initially put in place, if there are now better and more cost-effective policies available with more improved benefits that will better match your needs? ! Are you certain as to what benefits you will be paid in the event of a claim? ! Are there exclusions or increased premiums on the policy, which could and should be looked at? ! Does this policy cover my business's specific needs and has it been tailored for my business? ! Have I purchased any new equipment; changed staff; moved premises; added new treatments to my menu and not informed my broker? ! Are these new treatments covered under my existing policy? ! Does my insurance broker understand my business requirements?

With changes in personal circumstances or in business structures it is important to know that if the unforeseen event occurred, your insurance policy will meet your individual and business needs.

Similarly, if you are now in a better financial position is there additional areas of cover such as Key Man Protection that are important for the ongoing success of your business that you should now re-evaluate.

An insurance broker's role is not to “sell” you insurance. The insurance broker's role is to help you get the best possible insurance cover available to meet your business's specific needs and to ensure you are given accurate and up-to-date advice, which will help you make informed decisions.

Like your accountant and lawyer, your insurance broker is a professional. They should not just “sell” cover and then forget about you, they should protect your best interests. Additionally, they should not take the “hit and miss” approach of helping you put a policy in place without you understanding the reason and purpose of the policy.

If appropriate, they should also connect with your accountant and lawyer to ensure they also understand the purpose of your policy.

Insurance is about relationships. Your insurance broker should be your first point of contact in the event of an incident to answer any questions and provide assistance with claims.

We at The Sparrow Group take our client care seriously and consider it our obligation to ensure we are offering our clients not only the best possible cover at the best possible price, but also we aim to ensure the policy we recommend perfectly fits their needs.

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Here are just some examples of the review results conducted by The Sparrow Group*: Example 1: Chris WA. Chris called The Sparrow Group for a review as she was paying very high premiums and she wasn't obtaining the information from her broker to assist her in feeling comfortable with the insurance policy that was in place. Her current brokers were not proactive in providing her with information, or for that matter returning her calls.

Chris wanted to know what she had covered under her existing policies; did she require further cover and was she paying too much?

After reviewing her policies, we confirmed the following: As Chris's business had grown and she had additional areas to cover, another policy was added. While this was very diligent of her to make sure she was properly covered, the insurance broker, due to a lack of understanding of the beauty industry, had duplicated her policies.

Also, there were existing policies in place that she no longer required due to the changes in her business.

These matter were immediately corrected and we sourced new policies that save her over $7,000 per year.

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Joanne SA. Joanne called The Sparrow Group for a review of her policies, as she was concerned over the premium amount she was paying and she didn't feel her insurance broker understood her business requirements. As she had a mobile business that included an IPL machine she was concerned that it wasn't adequately covered under her insurance.

After reviewing Joanne's policies we confirmed the following: There were areas of Joanne's policies that were doubled up and we were able to save her money. However, her mobile IPL and some of her other electronic equipment were far from adequately covered. In the event of a claim it would have cost Joanne up to $60,000 to replace

her equipment. We were not able to offer savings to Joanne's premium.

We were, however, able to give her peace of mind through a more comprehensive cover in the event of a claim.

Example 3: Susan Qld. Susan called to see if The Sparrow Group could review her policies as she had been with an insurance broker for some time and she wasn't sure if she was covered for all her treatments under her existing policies.

After reviewing Susan's policies we confirmed the following: Susan's policies were in disarray. She had policies that were not worth the paper they were written on as they were not adequately insured to cover her treatments or for any advice that she on her staff may be giving that may eventuate in a claim. She had a "motor vehicle and a household policy that she thought she was covered for that had been out of cover for five months.

We were able to work through all the paperwork with Susan and ensure that she and her business were adequately covered and she could now sleep at night.

With the beauty industry moving forward in leaps and bounds the need for an insurance group who has extensive experience in the beauty industry as well as the insurance industry is paramount. Our proven results guarantee peace of mind

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The Sparrow Group provides you with reliable service that will take the pressure off you, giving you peace of mind and freeing you to concentrate on your business.

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For an insurance review phone Sue Sparrow today on (07) 5502 8326 Mobile 0422 313 081 email sue@thesparrowgroup.com.au

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* Full names are not provided to protect the privacy of the businesses.

APJ 43

I believe that the balance of work and personal life is important. You need to draw a few differentiating lines for yourself, for your business and for your staff in order to get the balance as close to perfect as possible. For example, I refuse to work on weekends! Our salon is closed Saturdays and Sundays, even though we are in the middle of the city. No amount of money I can make on these two days is worth being away from our families, either for my staff, or me.

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Member Profile The members of APAN are not only professionals, but also ordinary human beings who daily must face the challenges of juggling personal and professional life.

In each issue of APJ we are profiling a member and uncover the real person behind the professional.

In this issue we speak to Marina Capitelli, owner of the highly successful iBeauty Day Spa in Brisbane. Marina is a qualified aesthetic, para-medical therapist and Cosmetic Tattooist with a real passion for her profession and for providing her clients with the best of care through the use of the very latest technologies. Additionally, she is a wife and a mother of three beautiful children, including twins.

Despite this, she manages to successfully juggle career and family and still run both sides of her life successfully. To learn how please read on for her answers to the questions we have given her.

APJ 1. What aspects of your profession as an aesthetic and spa therapist do you love the most?

Marina: As a therapist what I love the most is that I can make my clients look and feel beautiful and confident. I have all this knowledge and incredible equipment at my fingertips, so I love that I can take a completely messed-up skin and use my knowledge and equipment to make it look amazing. With these results viewing the change in the client’s attitude towards themselves is also very rewarding. I see them come back more confident and sassy at every visit. It’s a great feeling to know you helped them feel good about themselves – this is what I love the most.

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APJ 3. Your Medi-spa is situated in the centre of Brisbane, where there is a great deal of competition. Can you name three things that contribute to you remaining a leading salon/spa in the region?

Marina: Honesty and sincerity would have to be my

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APJ 2. You are a busy mother of three, including twins, how do you juggle work and family commitments?

Marina: With great difficulty – it’s a real juggle and totally impossible without the help of family. Having great staff members is also crucial to being able to have a little work/life balance. I try to be as open and transparent as possible with my staff in matters that relate to the business and home. I think that this helps them gain the real perspective on what it means to own and run a business, that it’s not always all money and glamour to be your own boss.

primary reasons for our success. I don’t want to sound sappy, but as a business owner, I believe that to build a great clientele you need to be brave enough to not make it about the ‘money’, but about honestly and sincerely wanting to make your clients look and feel better. Clients are very astute, and they know when they are being ‘sold’ to. But if you are sincere about what you offer them or, just as importantly, what you don’t offer them, then you are gaining more than the few “on the spot” dollars – you will gain a lifetime of undivided trust. The money will flow from the trust in your judgement that you will build with your clients.

The second most important key for our success I would have to say is education. Never stop learning. Never stop researching. Keep yourself updated with what’s new, how it works and what it does – even if it’s something that you are not interested in offering or doing in your salon. With the phenomenon of the Internet, clients are well educated on what is on offer and they are prepared to shop around and make the enquiry. You need to be able to take advantage of every enquiry your salon receives and use your knowledge to engage that client to the services you do offer. So having well-educated staff is a must.

Third, but not at all least, would have to the appropriate advertising and promotion. You have to work it – day in – day out. You can’t just sit back and wait for clients to magically walk in your door. Internet and direct promotion would be my two favourites, but I have tried everything from television and radio to promotional girls handing out flyers. You get to know what works and what doesn’t, but the bottom line is that it doesn’t matter how good you are, if people don’t know you are there then you have to shout it out.

APJ 4. What gives you the most pleasure and keeps you happy in life?

Marina: Of course I would have to say my children, my extended family and my dog! I mean, what’s the point of it all otherwise? I’ve achieved a lot in my lifetime so far. I have travelled and seen many wonderful things, but nothing beats spending time with my family – I’m very lucky.

APJ 5. What is your favourite pastime?

Marina: My family had a small weekend farm up in Tamborine Mountain at the Gold Coast hinterland where I spent time when I was younger. We had horses and I enjoyed riding. I loved that place and whenever I think of fun times as a kid I think of Tamborine Mountain.

I think I’d like to retire there one day.

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APJ 44

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APJ 6. What services do you enjoy the most in your work?

Marina: I like all the technical stuff, like IPL,

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microdermabrasion and acne treatments – the stuff that requires you to think and plan. I like this challenge. But I also enjoy doing lash perming and brow sculpting. I’m really good at these – really good. I just returned from Canada a month or so ago. I went over to meet some of our suppliers and completed a micropigmentation workshop. I really enjoyed this. I would have to say that cosmetic tattooing would have to be my next true love.

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APJ 7. Do you have a favourite product, and if you do what is it?

Marina: At the moment I am in love with a new product from Algologie called “Daily Mini Peel Powder”. It’s a salicylic acid based powder, which you mix with water to turn into a foaming skin cleanser. I love the way it so successfully controls my oily skin. I’ve even started my daughter using it every now and then. She’s only 11, but has already started developing blackheads.

APJ 8. When you are stressed, what helps you de-stress the most?

Marina: Yelling! When I’m stressed yelling helps me let it all out, but in all seriousness the only way for me to de-stress is to go on holidays. I think it’s important to force yourself for some ‘time-out’ and a reality check and remember why you put yourself through it all. Just take a week (or two) and go somewhere really magical with your family, then come back centred and with renewed enthusiasm.

And talking of holidays, we are leaving tonight to go skiing. There’s nothing more magical than seeing your children enjoying themselves in the snow.

APJ 9. What is your favourite food?

Marina: Unfortunately I have many favourite foods, which is a problem for my figure. I would have to say right now that my favourite cuisine is Vietnamese. We have a stall near our salon and I buy my lunch from there a couple of times a week. They use a lot of fresh ingredients like mint leaves, lettuce and fresh noodles and that makes me feel a little less guilty.

APJ 10. If your colleagues asked you what is the most important things they should be focusing on during difficult times, what would you answer them?

Marina: Don’t panic! Take a deep breath, sit down and really

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look at your business. When things are going well (like they have been the past 10 years or so) you tend to get complacent and just go with the flow. If you sit down and really consider every aspect of your business, each treatment, each product, each bill that you pay, you will find many things that you can change, or even eliminate to help you tighten things up and stay financially healthy. I have done this exercise myself recently and managed to reduce our outgoings by a considerable amount. You have to play it smart to survive and move forward.

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APJ 45

key ingredient ㄰

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The virtues of OLIVE OIL for health and beauty

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By Tina Viney ㈵

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Even though those who are keeping a close eye on calories may fear fat, but fat it still has its place for good health and even weight loss.

Fat is important for many body processes. You need to eat some fat in your diet as it protects your organs, keeps you warm and helps your body absorb and move nutrients around. It also helps hormone production. However, some fats are better than others, and having too much of any type is not a good idea.

Dietary fats are classified by their structure. Different types of fats react differently inside the body. Saturated fats (found mostly in animal products) increase blood cholesterol, which is a risk factor in coronary heart disease. Mono-unsaturated and polyunsaturated fats tend to lower blood cholesterol.

diets. In fact, the rats that received olive oil had colon cancer rates almost as low as those fed fish oil, which several studies have already linked to a reduction in colon cancer risk.

GRADES OF OLIVE OIL Generally, olive oil is extracted by pressing or crushing olives. It comes in different varieties, depending on the amount of processing involved. Varieties include:

EXTRA VIRGIN — Considered the best, least processed, comprising the oil from the first pressing of the olives

VIRGIN — Comes from the second pressing The greatest exponent of mono-unsaturated fat is olive oil, and it is a prime component of the Mediterranean Diet. Olive oil is a natural juice, which preserves the taste, aroma, vitamins and properties of the olive fruit. It is the only vegetable oil that can be consumed as it is – freshly pressed from the fruit.

The beneficial health effects of olive oil are due to both its high content of mono-unsaturated fatty acids and its high content of antioxidative substances. Studies have shown that olive oil offers protection against heart disease by controlling LDL (bad) cholesterol levels while raising HDL (the "good" cholesterol) levels. (1-3) No other naturally produced oil has as large an amount of monounsaturated as olive oil – mainly oleic acid.

PURE — This is made from a little extra virgin olive oil, which is added to refined olive oil. It is a lesser grade that may also be labelled "olive oil".

OLIVE POMACE OIL — Pomace oil is the lowest grade of olivebased oils. Pomace is that part of the olive that remains after all the oil

Olive oil is very well tolerated by the stomach. In fact, olive oil's protective function has a beneficial effect on ulcers and gastritis. Olive oil activates the secretion of bile and pancreatic hormones much more naturally than prescribed drugs. Consequently, it lowers the incidence of gallstone formation.

OLIVE OIL AND HEART DISEASE Studies have shown that people who consumed 25 millilitres (mL) – about 2 tablespoons – of virgin olive oil daily for one week showed less oxidation of LDL cholesterol and higher levels of antioxidant compounds, particularly phenols, in the blood. (4) But while all types of olive oil are sources of mono-unsaturated fat, EXTRA VIRGIN olive oil, from the first pressing of the olives, contains higher levels of antioxidants, particularly vitamin E and phenols, because it is less processed. ㄰ 㤵

Olive oil is clearly one of the good oils, one of the healing fats. Most people do quite well with it since it does not upset the critical omega 6 to omega 3 ratio, and most of the fatty acids in olive oil are actually an omega-9 oil, which is mono-unsaturated.

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OLIVE OIL AND COLON CANCER ㈵

Spanish researchers suggest that including olive oil in your diet may also offer benefits in terms of colon cancer prevention (5). Their study results showed that rats fad diet supplemented with olive oil had a lower risk of colon cancer than those fed safflower oil-supplemented

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APJ 46

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and water in it has been removed by pressuring or centrifuging processes. With the use of certain solvents, there is still some residual oil that can be extracted from the olive pomace. This oil may then be refined, which results in a product bereft of any specific taste or colour; it also contains none of olive oil’s vitamins. To make pomace oil acceptable to consumers, the producer blends it with virgin olive oil. As with pure olive oil, the producer may vary the proportions between the pomace oil and virgin olive oil; however, the virgin olive oil content is generally quite low. The blended product is called olive pomace oil. Like pure olive oil, it is suitable for use only in high-heat cooking.

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EXTRA LIGHT — Undergoes considerable processing and only retains a very mild olive flavour. There are certain light-tasting, lightcoloured oils containing minute proportions of virgin oils. The “Extra Light” or “Light” label refers to the flavour. However, they are being marketed with a particular slant that would have people believe that they are buying oils that have lower fat or calorie content. The truth is, light oils have 125 calories per tablespoon – exactly like all olive oils, and all fats, for that matter.

When buying olive oil you will want to obtain a high-quality EXTRA VIRGIN oil. The oil that comes from the first “pressing” of the olive is extracted without using heat (a cold press) or chemicals, in this way it retains all its vitamins and nutrients in their purest form. The less the olive oil is handled the closer to its natural state, the better the oil. If the olive oil meets all these criteria, it can be designated as "extra virgin".

"Light" olive oil is a marketing concept and not a classification of olive oil grades. It is completely unregulated by any certification organisations and therefore has no real precedent to what its content should be. Sometimes, the olive oil is cut with other vegetable oils.

OLIVE OIL VERSUS CANOLA OIL Some advocate that Canola Oil (rapeseed) is superior to olive oil due to its concentration of mono-unsaturated fatty acids. Canola oil is a relatively recent development and the original crops were unfit for human consumption due to their high content of a dangerous fatty acid called euric acid. Olive oil is still supported by most research findings as being superior. Furthermore, it has been around for thousands of years.

OLIVE OIL AND THE SKIN In recent times olive oil has also been hailed as the newcomer to the array of anti-ageing ingredients as new research confirms its high antioxidant properties as well as its high Vitamin E content. It is now used by several reputable skincare companies for body lotions, stretch-mark creams and for dry, dehydrated skins. It is also now included as part of a mix of quality cold-pressed virgin oils for body massage, with excellent nutritive and hydrating results.

Additionally, it is also excellent for strengthening and preventing flaky nails.

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REFERENCES

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1. Keys A, Menotti A, Karvonen MJ, et al.: The diet and 15-year death rate in the Seven Countries Study. Am J Epidemiol 124: 903-915 (1986) 2. Willett WC: Diet and coronary heart disease. Monographs in Epidemiology and Biostatistics 15: 341-379 (1990) 3. World Health Organization: Diet, nutrition, and the prevention of chronic diseases. Report of a WHO Study Group. WHO Technical Report Series 797, Geneva 1990 (4) European Journal of Clinical Nutrition April 2002;56:114-120 (5) Gut 2000;46:191-199.

(6) http://www.explorecrete.com/nature/olive-oil-types.html

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APJ 47

business coaching ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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I am often asked what beauty industry specific Business Coaching is and how it can help a salon or spa business grow. So I decided to give APAN readers a sneak preview of what happens on a daily basis and how it transforms my clients' businesses and even improves their lifestyle. In a nutshell, what I do is to provide advice and business tools for time-poor owners to develop their business performance and increase profits. What I offer is easy-to-implement strategies along with expert advice gained from nearly 40 years in the industry.

5:00 AM I'm an early bird and generally at my computer by 5:00 am each day. I find working from a home office has great advantages. I turn my computer on, then open up emails and get the first shock of the day with the number I have received overnight. After deleting the junk mail that always manages to get through I get down to business. Great, I see overnight we have sold several manuals off the website. This means the new revamped site and expensive SEO is working.

Among the emails are several messages from coaching clients asking a variety of questions, which are mostly to do with staffing issues. I answer these and know when the client turns their computer on they will be pleased for the problem-solving information.

But it's not too late because after reading her diagnostic report she is willing and eager to implement the strategies to improve her team's performance. We discuss three strategies she will implement immediately. From past experience I have found a quick improvement once a team has been given clear instructions and systems to work with.

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My next call is not scheduled until 10:45am so I spend this time working on an article I have due to my editor in a few days time. I also receive a call from my IT guy who is happy to announce my "Secret Salon Spa Shopper Kit" has gone online and is now available for purchase by immediate "download" or "shipped out". I quickly go online to check it out and I'm pleased with the results and thank him for a great effort as usual. Life is much easier when you work with good people who know their job.

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10:45 AM While a business coach should never have favourites I have to admit my next client is someone I respect and admire. She has a very beautiful salon in Victoria and has been a client for three years. During

A Day in the Life of a Beauty Industry "Fix-it" Business Coach

by Caroline Nelson I spend the next couple of hours creating material for three clients' spring promos. At the end of this time each has a customised promotion, including the treatment procedure; A5 flyers; posters along with retail strategies to support the promotions. Everything has been personalised with the salon's individual logos and ready for their printing firms to print. The promotions fly through hyperspace and land in the business owner's inbox.

8:00 AM My first coaching call of the day is a conference call with the owner and manager of a very large medispa and in today's session we are working on a new incentive program for their team. This is complex, with 15 employees and a large variety of skills and qualifications. The idea is we want to motivate and inspire the team as a whole and also each individual. These incentives along with several new strategies have been designed to drive the business to reach the owner's financial goals.

the time we have worked together she has made the shift from a pampering business to more clinical. With a team of six she has only two therapists working in pampering and glamour services, with the rest of the team performing high-end services. Three of the team are dermal clinicians. This business has had huge growth in the time we have been working together.

Today's session is to start working on her next event. In the past they have always been night events, but this one is going to be an all-day event so it needs a lot more input. We have been working on this for a few weeks and today we are just going over the final details before I start working on the invitation design. Over the previous week my client has secured the support of all her suppliers and each of her guests will be receiving a wonderful gift bag. We joke because it sounds like they will be receiving an "Oscar Night" gift bag.

During this session we also discuss a few slight problems she has with one of her team and set some new strategies into place to make the adjustments and corrections. The session ends on a very positive note

Over the previous week we have communicated via email and I have had the opportunity to study each employee's current staff appraisal and sales performance. Today we nail down the new incentive program. The owner is very happy and she and her manager will be presenting it to their team at a staff meeting later in the week. They will follow up with a report to me of how the team responded by Friday. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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8:45 AM No rest as the next session is about to start. This client is new to the industry having just completed her beauty therapy training. Her salon has been opened only 10 weeks and problems have already set in. This is her first coaching session, although I have completed a full diagnostic on the business and she has received this via email a few days ago. Today is the day of truth and for taking off the blinkers. I truly wish I could have spoken to this lady a few months before she opened instead of after.

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APJ 48

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with us reviewing the previous month's figures, which were up substantially from the previous years.

achiever who has really run with the business coaching process and it is paying off big time.

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11:30 AM

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Time for a quick lunch and to check incoming emails. I open three from my clients that I had created the Spring Promos for. All are very happy, in fact one said, "Love them, love them … how do you come up with such great ideas?" The answer is I have had nearly 40 years of experience to find out what does and does not work, not from theory, but from practical "hands-on" experience.

To make for an exceptional Grand Opening we have worked together to secure her some exceptional deals from her suppliers, and great news, they have all come on board. Today's call is working on all the final details for a very successful transition into the new premises. All the hiccups with the town planning have been worked out and after a few hold-ups with tradespeople all is just about ready. This call goes well with a little bit of hand holding for a now nervous day spa owner and some extra last-minute advice.

A brief outline of the business and the challenges it faces are: !

Inexperienced owner – no business background at all !

Poorly selected employees – no reference checks done, no employee induction, no on-going training to speak of !

No spa staff policies and systems manual in place – this owner clearly expects her team to be mindreaders !

Undercapitalised from inception !

Opened in a very competitive marketplace !

Stocking the wrong product range/s for the demographics !

Time-poor owner trying to be a "Jill-of-all-Trades" The 15-minute free phone call stretches to nearly 30 minutes. It was a heart-wrenching call as this owner was near to breaking point. The upshot was I gave her a few ideas to start the turnaround process and she decided to invest in a coaching program. I realise this was a big step for her to take as she is cash-strapped, but once we spoke she realised she had to do something quickly or else lose the business.

1:15 PM

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From 2:00 to 3:30 PM I finish off the trade journal article and email it off to my editor. Return a couple of phone calls and emails and then ready for my last coaching call of the day.

12:30 PM The next call is from a cash-strapped spa owner. This lady is receiving a free 15minute consultation call she has applied for from signing up at my website for my free "Salon Money Making Secrets" report.

Prior to the session I had emailed her a questionnaire, which she had filled out and returned. What I found in the answers was not promising. In fact I hold grave doubts for this business unless immediate action takes place.

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Return a couple of phone calls and run out to the letterbox to pick up today's mail. Great, two more salon owners have booked in for the Profit Rich Salon Spa seminar I am running with industry advanced analysis expert Gay Wardle.

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Another favourite is my next call. This salon owner is situated in a small country town. But it is a boom mining town so there is a lot of growth happening. For the past two and a half years this owner and I have been systematically working on every part of the business and the growth is truly amazing. I might also add during this time the owner has had two babies and built a new house. She is a very busy girl.

And in a few short weeks she relocates and opens a new day spa. The current business is a traditional salon and the new business will incorporate high-tech clinical and beautiful spa treatments. It will also have a very high focus on retail and for this reason a very salesorientated retail section has been designed. This lady is a high

3:30 PM This call is from one of my New Zealand clients. Another dynamo in the making because in just under 12 months of coaching this business has grown so much she has bought her nearest competitor out.

During that time she has dramatically changed her business direction and we have created a whole new business model. The new direction has entailed removing or down focusing on low profit margin services and redirecting all marketing onto high-end services. This has enabled her to be in the position to make the takeover of her competitor.

During this call we discuss the blending of the combined businesses and the very favourable profit increase. Even at this early stage it looks like a very good commercial decision. Her staff, who previously worked at the competitor's salon, has adjusted and working well with the new policies and procedures. In our next scheduled call we will be working on new marketing.

4:15 PM As I am a speaker at the 2010 Sydney International Spa & Beauty Expo and Conference I needed to finalise my Power Point presentation so I spent about half an hour refining it. My topic "Bootcamp for Profitable Spa Management" seems to be a popular topic so I want to make sure the delegates get good value. As my dear mother used to say, "If a business owner attends a seminar or workshop they better learn something they can use to get the cash register singing otherwise they may as well save their money".

It's now the end of my working day and Sam the cat is demanding his dinner so I will close this "Day in the Life…." extract. In the next issue of APJ my article topic will be "The Salon Survival Blueprint – beat the current cash flow crises". © Copyright Caroline Nelson 2010

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Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry specific business coach and author of the Ignite Your Beauty Business For $uccess – Salon, Staff Policies Procedures & Systems manual. Call her on 0410 600 440. And to learn more about her step-by-step program for salon spa success, and to sign up for her FREE e-Book "3 Top Salon Spa Money Making Secrets", visit www.nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com

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APJ 49

traditional treatments ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Ageing and its Management An Ayurvedic Perspective As new research comes to light offering various approaches on how we can best manage the manifestations of ageing, there is simultaneously a resurgence of the wisdom of the past that also offers different approaches and solutions. One of these is Ayurvedic Medicine.

This article, submitted by Yasmin Sadikot, sheds some light into the principles and philosophy of Ayurvedic Medicine and how these can offer solutions to a contemporary aesthetic practice.

The association between Ayurveda, anti-ageing and cosmeceuticals is gaining importance in the beauty, health and wellness sector.

Ayurvedic cosmeceuticals date back to the Indus Valley Civilisation.

Modern research trends mainly revolve around principles of antiageing activity described in Ayurveda: Vayasthapana (age defying), Varnya (brighten skinglow), Sandhaniya (cell r e g e n e r a t i o n ) , Vr a n a ro p a n a (healing), Tvachya (nurturing), Shothahara (anti-inflammatory), Tvachagnivardhani (strengthening skin metabolism) and Tvagrasayana (retarding ageing).

synonymous to 'vrdhakya', meaning increasing age. Ayurveda divides human life into various stages. These are: ! Childhood (up to the age 16 years) ! Youth and middle age [from 16 to 60 years (charaka) or 70 years (sushruta) ] ! Exhibits progressively the signs of growth (vivardhamana, 16 to 20 years of age) ! Youth (youvana, 20 to 30 years) ! Maturity (sampoornata, 30 to 40 years) ! Weakening (parihani, 40 years onwards), which gradually sets in up to 60 years ! Old age, wherein after 60-70 years the body elements, sense organs and strength begin to decline.

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These are general descriptions and are dependent on Prana (life energy that performs respiration, oxygenation and circulation). It governs two other subtle essences, ojas and tejas. Ojas (the essence of the seven dhatus or bodily tissues) is responsible for the auto-immune system and mental intelligence necessaryfor longevity. An imbalance in ojas can create kapha related disorders and decreased ojas – vata-related reactions. Tejas (the essence of a subtle fire or energy) governs metabolism. Agni (central fire or energy source in the body) promotes digestion, absorption and assimilation of food. Tejas is necessary for the nourishing and transformation of each dhatu. Aggravated tejas burns away ojas, reducing immunity and overstimulating pranic activity. Aggravated prana produces degenerative disorders in the dhatus. Lack of tejas results in overproduction of unhealthy tissue and obstructs the flow of pranic energy.

Just as it is essential to maintain balance among the tridoshavata,

Ayurveda describes various rejuvenating therapies with the help of a special class of medicinal herbal preparations called Rasayana that are said to rebuild the body, mind, prevent degeneration and delay ageing, or even reverse the appearance of ageing.

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Ayurveda is the Indian traditional system of medicine. It provides guidelines on the management of ageing. The most obvious signs of ageing skin are atrophy, laxity, wrinkling, sagging, dryness, a pigmented or other blemishes condition, and sparse and/or grey hair.

Symptoms of chronological ageing include dry and thin skin, fine wrinkles, abnormal blood vessels, age spots, benign and malignant skin tumours due to the deterioration of the skin’s immune system.

Skin ageing is determined primarily by genetic and hormonal factors, while photo-ageing is a separate process and largely involves damage to the collagen and elastin fibres in the skin.

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THE AYURVEDIC PERSPECTIVE

In Ayurvedic medicine ageing is known as 'Jar', defined as that which has become old by the act of wearing out, 'jryati iti jar'. It is

pitta, kapha principles of motion, metabolism, structure, respectively, the dhatus and the three malas (bodily wastes), it is also important for longevitythat prana, ojas and tejas remain in balance.

The tridosha play a very important role in the maintenance of cellular health and longevity. Kapha maintains longevity on the cellular level.

Pitta governs digestion and nutrition. Vata, which is closely related to pranic life energy, governs all life functions. Proper diet, exercise and lifestyle can create a balance among thesethree subtle essences.

In Ayurveda, the outermost layer of the skin reflects the complexion and the quality of the Rasa Dhatu (nutrient fluid, the first of the seven tissues of the body). It also acts as a mirror as it indicates whether the physiology as a whole is balanced or imbalanced, and whether there is innerhealth or disorder; it also reflects the aura of the individual.

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APJ 50

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Mamsadhara is the innermost layer and the platform for the skin's elasticity and firmness. When this layer is balanced, the skin looks young and supple. A skin product that has vayasthapana (maintaining youthfulness) properties nourishes this layer to help slow the ageing process. ! Vata skin, which is dry, thin, fine pored, delicate and cool to touch tends to develop wrinkles earlier than the other skin types. ! Pitta skin, which is fair, soft, warm and medium thickness is photosensitive and has least tolerance to sun and is most likely to accumulate sun damage over time. ! Kapha skin is thick, oily, soft and cool to touch and tends to develop wrinkles much later in

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accelerate wound healing. It is also recognised as a potent antioxidant that protects fatty tissues from oxidation damage and for playing an integral role in elastic and collagen synthesis. It is capable of controlling inflammatory responses associated with UV exposure.

Vitamin E has significant moisturising and anti-inflammatory properties and may provide protection from UV damage. It acts as an antioxidant and inhibits the formation of lipid peroxides and thus prevents skin ageing. It is also known to improve decreased function of the sebaceous gland and ameliorate excessive pigmentation in the skin.

Wheat is rich in Vitamin E and also contains azelic acid,which helps to reduce pigmentation. Other topical antioxidants include eucalyptus and Prunus (almond), the seeds of black rice, leaves of barley, sesame seeds, turmeric,aloe vera, etc. Natural antioxidantsinclude flavonoids (blueberries, strawberries), quercetin (onions, apple skins, berries, broccoli), carotenoids (carrots, red capsicum and oranges), lycopene (tomatoes). Physical sunblocks, such as magnesium silicate, zinc oxide and kaolinum, place a coating on the skinthat reflects the light.

AYURVEDA AND HEALTHY SKIN life than the Vata or Pitta type, but because of its thickness and oiliness, is more prone to accumulate ama (toxins) under the skin.

WRINKLES

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The human skin loses with age its ability to defend itself against oxidation. Through its exposure to the environment the skin undergoes emaciation as a result of the formation of peroxylipids, which can lead to the formation of wrinkles. Hence use of products that enhance anti-oxidation should help to improve the skin. Even brief exposure to UV radiation increases the activity of enzymes that break down the proteins, collagen and elastin that provide structural support for the skin. Prevention can be achieved by regular herbal treatments, and homecare using creams containing actives that can reduce the activation of these enzymes are used in Ayurvedic herbal formulations.

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ANTI-AGEING THEORIES TOPICAL AGENTS

In terms of topical agents vitamin C is revered for its ability to

According to Ayurveda, the factors that display healthy skin include proper moisture balance (Kapha in balance), effective functioning of the metabolism and hormonal of the skin (Pitta in balance), and efficient circulation ofblood and nutrients to the different layers of the skin (Vata in balance). The balance of the three dhatus (tissues) are especially reflected in the skin: nutritional fluid (Rasa), blood (Rakta) and muscle (Mamsa). To be effective, an anti-ageing application has to provide support to all of these areas. As an example, if there is an imbalance in circulation (low vata) to the peripheries (rasa, rakta and mamsa) vital nutrients cannot travel to the skin to keep it moist and warm. This reflects in a dry skin, cold to touch, and the formation of wrinkles. To improve this condition treatments should include herbs that will help to improve circulation and help the vital nutrients to travel to the tissues, improving elasticity and giving the skin a healthy glow.

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Anti-ageing treatment includes two types of therapies, Urjaskara (promotive) and Vyadhihara (curative). For vata skin to stay youthful products that can nourish, warm and rehydrate theskin should be used, otherwise it may be prone to wrinkles and premature ageing. For pitta skin protection from the sun, and products that have a cooling effect.

Pitta skin should be protected from the heat, sun, steam, heated rooms

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and stimulating foods and drinks.

Kapha skin benefits from warm, stimulating and detoxifying treatments that help to invigorate a sluggish system.

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REJUVENATION THERAPY ㈵

Pancha Karma is one of the popular rejuvenation and detoxification treatments that consists of three stages – Purva Karma (pre-treatment), Pradhana Karma (primary treatment) and Paschat Karma (post-treatment).

Snehana (oleation) and Swedana (sudation) are the two Purva Karma procedures. The four Pradhan Karma – Vamana (medical emesis), Virechana (purgation), Nasya (nasal administration), and Basti (enema).

Paschat Karma (post-treatment) mainly deals with Ahar (diet) regimens, Vihar (exercise) and use of health-promoting Rasayana and other medicines.

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Ayurveda describes various rejuvenating therapies with the help of a special class of medicinal herbal preparations called Rasayana that are said to rebuild the body, mind, preventdegeneration and delay ageing, or even reverse the appearance of ageing.

Charaka described two methods of rejuvenation. The first, methodintramural (kutipravesika), required the subject to remain inside a chamber in isolation, and the second method, extramural(vatatapika),which is less rigorous, is carried out in open air.

Kutipravesika method is suitable for healthy, self-controlled, wise, strong and affluent persons where a special cottage is constructed on an auspicious land facing east or north, with all the necessary articles for treatment and is started on an auspicious day. Vatatapika is for everyone where the use of various medicinal plant formulations are used to balance the individual. The treatments are individualised based on the imbalances presented. In Ayurveda, the practice of yoga is a disciplined science of life and can be individualised as a very important, natural, preventive measure to ensure good health..

CONCLUSION The ageing processis a challenging human experience common to everyone, and the desire to look young prevails in the majority of us. The latest trends in beauty, health and wellness sectors are giving rise to a new realm of possibilities by fusing anti-ageing cosmeceuticals with traditional Indian medicinal herbs. In this regard Ayurveda offers a great deal of information on principles of anti-ageingactivity, skincare and anti-ageing herbs.

While there are various theories and approaches to the management of ageing, the traditional Ayurvedic knowledge remains important, both inunderstanding the process and methods of effective management of the manifestations of ageing.

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OmVeda is a skincare company that has tapped into the vast information available in Ayurvedic literature on ageing and skincare and has developed anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle treatments with natural ingredients for topical applications.

Contact OmVeda on email: info@omveda.com.au or phone 1300 662 383 if you are interested in introducing traditional Ayurvedic treatments and products to your clients. OmVeda offers the largest retail and treatment line in its category.

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Article submitted by Yasmin Sadikot ㈵

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For more information please call OmVeda on 1 300 662 383 Email: info@omveda.com.au or visit www.omveda.com.au

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ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS AND THE SKIN

New Lipid Molecule

Impaired Enzyme Activity and its role in Skin Blemishes

By Gay Wardle There is often a misconception in the industry that excessive oil in the skin is the cause of comedomes and therefore when the skin has evidence of comedomes and congestion it is often diagnosed as an "oily skin" and treated as such. As this may be the case in some instances there is also another considerations that needs to be examined and that is the issue of impaired enzyme activity surrounding the skin cells as the protocols in such instances are completely different. For this reason we need to examine the skin more thoroughly to identify the correct cause of the problem, as this will vastly change the way we will need to address the skin and design the correct treatment plan.

In the case of impaired enzyme activity the skin needs to be replenished not dried, which would lead to a further disturbance of the skin's acid mantle resulting in further dryness that can accelerate even more harmful bacteria than may already plague it.

THE ROLE OF ENZYMES IN THE SKIN Enzymes are biological catalysts, mainly proteins, generated by an organism to speed up the rates of chemical reactions in the cell.

In the skin, water and essential fatty acids create an enzyme effect. The role of these enzymes is to assist the skin to break down and dissolved dead cells and contribute to the desquamation processes that leads to healthy cell turnover.

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The warning signs that could point to the causes of congested skin should be identified during a thorough initial consultation. Look out for fat-free diets as well as insufficient consumption of water intake in your client's dietary habits as this could be the major cause for impaired enzymatic activity in the skin.

Ceramides or essential fatty acids present in the skin combine with water to create enzymes that dissolve desmosomes, which connect keratinocyte cells to each other. If these enzymes were not performing their activity correctly they can lead to other concerns, such as impairing our keratinocyte cells from performing their function. As the keratinocytes complete their journey through the epidermis they have specific functions to perform in every layer of the skin.

Discovered in 1929, essential fatty acids are groups of fatty acids, which are required by the body but cannot be manufactured by it. Essential fatty acids are like vitamins and minerals in that the body cannot make them. They must be obtained through the diet or through supplementation. There are two main families of EFAs and we need both of them. Omega-6 fatty acids which include linoleic acid and its metabolites such as GLA and Omega-3 fatty acids, alpha linolenic acids and its metabolites such as DHA.

EFAS HAVE FOUR GENERAL FUNCTIONS:

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Their metabolites are required for the structure of all membranes in the body They act as precursors for the production of postaglandins, which regulate cell functions Their metabolites "water-proof" the skin, maintaining the impermeability barrier of the skin Their metabolites regulate cholesterol transport and metabolism

With the significant role in the structure of every cell and the regulation of cell function it is apparent that a lack of essential fatty acids can adversely affect every cell and organ in the body. It is therefore not surprising that an EFA deficiency may lead to abnormalities in the skin, reproductive system, the cardiovascular system, the immune and inflammatory systems, the nervous system in fact every system in the body is susceptible to the negative effects.

Omega-3 fatty acids are found in fish, such as salmon, tuna, and halibut, other seafood including algae and krill, some plants, and nut oils.

The essential fatty acid of the Omega 6 series is linoleic acid. This is provided by our diet from vegetable seed oils including sunflower and safflower oils. ㄰

Omega-3 and Omega-6 essential fatty acids are especially important for making prostaglandins in your body. Prostaglandins are hormone-like substances that regulate many activities in your body including inflammation, pain, and swelling. They also play a role in controlling your blood pressure, your heart, your kidneys, your digestive system, and body temperature.

They are important for allergic reactions, blood clotting and making other hormones.

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For example: In the germinative layer they undergo mitosis In the spinosum layer these cells work in synergy with the melanocyte cells to distribute pigmentation (in darker skins they do this in both the spinosum and the granulosum layers.)

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Keratinocyte cells undergo identity changes in the lucidum layer and become corneocytes. They then desquamate in the corneum layer. This amazing process is all part of the skin barrier defence.

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We know that cells need food to keep them healthy and to function at their optimum, but they also need ceramides or essential fatty acids and water to enable the transfer of nutrients in and out of the cell.

If we are lacking in either of these then the result is oxidative stress (loss of water from the cell membrane) and lipid peroxidisation (loss of oil from the cell membrane). Not only do we loose water and essential fatty acids from the cell membrane, but also from the extracellular space around the cell.

When you have this level of deterioration and compromise within the cells then the cells cannot release proteins and waste matter outside the cell and cannot take in food to maintain the health of the cell.

Remember that the combination of water and ceramides create enzymes to dissolve desmosomes. If there is a lack of enzymes then dead cells cannot effectively desquamate resulting in cells that become sticky and clump together with cellular debris. This debris then becomes embedded in lipids, which forms crystallisation resulting in open and closed comedomes and milea.

To counteract this problem instead of drying the skin we need to increase water intake and recommended essential fatty acids in supplementation form and also included in our skincare formulation of choice.

There may be other causes to comedomes and congestion like creams that are too occlusive, which can inhibit cells from desquamating, as well as makeup, or even hyper-keratinisation due to sun damage. The level of damage from cells that are not functioning will result in an impaired acid mantle making the skin susceptible to bacteria and vulnerable to environmental pollution.

When diagnosing milia, congested pores and comedones, you should be looking for poor alignment of bi-layers created by impaired enzyme activity resulting in an impaired acid mantle.

Therefore only the correct diagnosis of this skin condition will result in a resolution of the problem.

New Lipid Molecule Image: Nanoscale assembly of the new lipid (green) and DNA (purple). Credit: Peter Allen, UCSB. Copyright 2006 American Chemical Society

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Gay Wardle is greatly respected as a trainer and educator in the aesthetic industry. She is a multi-award winner having received 14 business and industry awards for the achievements of her two salons in Queensland. Gay travels extensively throughout Australia training salons in IPL and equipment technology and also conducts training in Advanced Skin Analysis Pastiche Method. Gay is currently pursuing a degree qualification in Dermal Sciences with Victoria University. She trains others on her highly successful strategies that come from a strong understanding of what drives a salon to succeed and how to be known for exceptional results. Gay can be contacted on 0418 798 455.

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ANTI-AGEING RESULTS YOU CAN DEPEND ON The range of Bio-Therapeutic microcurrent equipment has an excellent standing in the aesthetic industry and is regularly featured in makeover programs such as Q ueer Eye For The Straight Guy the Oprah show and The Stylist..

Unlike lasers, Bio-Therapeutic Microcurrent system works on all skin types and tones. And unlike injections or fillers, microcurrent works on the entire face, forehead, eyes, nasolabial folds, jaw line, jowls and the area under the chin.

The Bio-Ultimate Platinum Microcurrent by BioTherapeutic, is a safe, clinically-proven way to tighten skin and contour features, with improvements in tone and texture occurring naturally through the stimulation of the client's own collagen.

Recent microcurrent studies performed at the University of Washington indicate a 14% increase in the production of natural collagen, a 48% increase in natural Elastin production, and a 38% increase in blood circulation over the course of 20 days. No other aesthetic service can come close to these proven results!

Microcurrent is completely non-invasive. A single treatment tightens existing collagen and stimulates new collagen growth. Microcurrent utilises a low-level current that mirrors the body's own natural electric impulses, which in turn trigger chemical reactions at a cellular level.

The more mature the skin the more frequently it is necessary that you administer the treatment. Maintenance sessions are recommended for all age groups.

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Treatments dramatically diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by introducing muscle re-education. Skin tone and elasticity improve by the increased production of collagen and elastin through microcurrent impulses. Visible firming and smoothing is achieved, leaving skin revitalised, vibrant and younger-looking, providing you with instant results and immediate client satisfaction.

Body Clinic is the authorised distributor of the BioUltimate Platinum and all Bio-Therapeutic products and equipment in Australia.

For further information on the range of Bio-Therapeutic equipment or products, please contact Irena Roden at Body Clinic Ph : 07 3821 2830 www.bodyclinic.com.au

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Train with a Multi-Award Winner in ADVANCED SKIN ANALYSIS

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Training in the internationally acclaimed Pastiche Method® of Advanced Skin Analysis is available to all Australian aesthetic therapists and skin treatment practitioners following the acquisition of an exclusive Australian licence from International Dermal Science expert and skin guru Florence Barrett-Hill. And who better to deliver the training than multi-award winner and industry leader Gay Wardle.

Gay Wardle

With over 26 years of experience in the aesthetics industry Gay is not only qualified in all levels of skin analysis, she is also the owner of two highly successful salons. Winner of over 14 industry awards, the latest being the Queensland winner as well as the National winner of the Small Business Champions Awards, Gay knows what is needed to succeed Gay Wardle and the value of education in this process.

“As aesthetics is progressively embracing more serious modalities in skin rejuvenation and anti-ageing it is also necessary for practitioners to ensure their diagnosis of the skin is both accurate and scientific prior to determining any treatment protocols. This is the exact objective of this training program,” Gay says.

The course Gay is teaching is The Pastiche Method® for the skin-treatment professional (Level one) and covers technically advanced protocols that are non-product aligned and have been taught and practised internationally with over 5000 graduates worldwide to date. In 2004, the core of the acclaimed course became a best-selling book with thousands of therapists in 16 countries and three languages, taking their knowledge to the next level and spawning a new breed of skincare professionals. It is the core content of the book that will be presented in a three-day training program consisting of theory and practical.

Training dates for 2010 are as follows:

BRISBANE 22 &23 November (Level 2) SYDNEY: 29 & 30 November (Level 2) 8 & 15 November (Level 2) ㄰ 㤵

Gay will be teaching the Level 1 version of the course, which is the core of the 2004 book of the same name.

The pre-requisite for Level 2 is completion of the Level 1 course.

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For more information and to book your place contact Gay at ADVANCED AESTHETICS Mobile: 0418 708455 or Email: gay@advancedaesthetics.com.au www.advancedaesthetics.com.au

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APJ 57

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1996–2010: COSMOPROF ASIA CELEBRATES 15 YEARS OF SUCCESS Cosmoprof Asia celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, affirming its role as the leading beauty, health and wellness event for the Asia Pacific. The exhibition will take place from 10th to 12th November 2010. More than 1,500 exhibiting companies will take up 54,000 sqm at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre to showcase their excellence to more than 41,000 expected visitors.

Eighteen country and group pavilions are confirmed to date: Australia, Belgium, mainland China, France, Germany, Hong Kong SAR, Israel, Italy, Japan, Korea, Poland, Singapore, Spain, Switzerland, the Taiwan region, Thailand, UK and USA.

INTERNATIONAL BUYERS PROGRAM

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On the strong request of exhibitors and visitors, this highly successful program will be organised for the fourth consecutive year at Cosmoprof Asia. Selected key buyers from strategically important growth markets such as mainland China, Japan, Russia, Turkey and Vietnam will meet with exhibitors in one-to-one prescheduled business meetings.

FOCUS ON PACKAGING Cosmoprof Asia is the most important event in the Asia Pacific for packaging solutions, contract manufacturing and suppliers devoted to the beauty and the wellness industries.

As one of the major focus in Cosmoprof Asia, more than 300 exhibitors providing packaging solutions, contract manufacturing and full service to finished product manufacturers have already confirmed

their participation in the packaging sector. The packaging sector is dedicated to professionals in product development, purchasing, marketing and brand management.

This year, Cosmoprof Asia will present an educational track for professionals involved in supply chain management and brand marketing. The seminar "International Industrial Process and Local Sourcing: Where do packaging suppliers meet brands requirements in Asia nowadays?" will take place on 10th November 2010. It will address topics such as the impact of local market peculiarities on supplier strategy towards industrial and business development regulations, costs, distribution, the role of suppliers in the Asian market, and analysing the impact of local consumer expectation on supplier innovation. Leading speakers from the industry will share their experience and enliven the debate: Cyril Ruiz-Moise, Chairman and General Manager of SGD Asia Pacific, and Jonathan Cohen, Global Marketing Director for Cosmetic and Personal Care Packaging, DuPont Cosmetic Solutions.

THE WORLD OF SPA MEETS AT COSMOPROF ASIA 2010 On the occasion of its 15th anniversary, Cosmoprof Asia 2010 presents a new initiative: Spa Soul, an exclusive project devoted to high-end spa product brands.

Spa Soul will host the most exclusive brands presenting their novelties and conducting business discussions, and will be animated by live presentations where the companies will showcase their most innovative concepts and techniques.

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Pevonia Botanica, the American elite skincare brand offered by prestigious spas worldwide, will be the official sponsor of Spa Soul.

A key event in Spa Soul will be the Spa Conference to be presented by Asia's top spa gurus on 11th November 2010. Hotel management and destination spa directors, day spa operators and owners, spa trainers, manufacturers and market leaders will meet to discuss this growing business of spa concepts. They will learn of the trend of medical Spa, opportunities in the Chinese market and other important issues that a spa professional needs to know to stay competitive in the industry.

AsiaSpa magazine, one of Asia's leading luxury spa, wellness and lifestyle publications, will be the media partner for the conference. ㄰ 㤵

Cosmoprof Asia was named the Best Spa Event in the Asia Spa Awards and selected as the most important Asian event in this segment by over 250 international brands.

Cosmoprof Asia offers the opportunity for professionals interested in the Japanese professional nail and beauty salon business to learn about the market and experience live demonstrations of the latest nail techniques in a meeting organised with the NPO Japan Nail Association.

Cosmoprof Asia, established in 1996 in Hong Kong, has achieved notable results in its 15 years, with more than 16,000 companies having exhibited in the event and over 500,000 visitors coming th through its doors. This 15 year celebration marks a very special year for all participants to commemorate the success of Cosmoprof Asia.

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JAPANESE NAIL MARKET CAPTURES THE WORLD'S ATTENTION ㈵

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The nail industry is growing fast in Japan and keeps up its leading position in the world. The market was worth more than 200 billion yen in 2009, a sharp increase compared to 2007 (160.7 billion yen).

For more information (and free registration for trade visitors) check out www.cosmoprof-asia.com

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The new AQTF version has come into effect from July 2010

Are you up with the changes required?

by Terry Everitt We have several teachers and training colleges who are either members of APAN or receive this publication. This article presented by Terry Everitt give an update on the changes to the national educational framework for Registered Training Organisations. If you are contemplating entering the training sector of the industry to deliver government approved training we suggest you also read this article, as it will give a quick preview of what is required.

The latest version of the quality assured framework for RTOs, the Australian Quality Training Framework (AQTF) is out. Since the introduction of the AQTF in 2001, it has undergone a few versions, and this latest one titled New Essential Conditions and Standards for Initial Registration and Continuing Registration of Training Organisations was approved by the Ministerial Council for Tertiary Education and Employment (MCTEE). This has been in effect since 1st July 2010 and it seems to be closing in on a circle from where the AQTF started from. While not as prescriptive as the original 12 standards, the present version is a lot more prescriptive than the previous AQTF 2007 was.

DOCUMENTATIONS

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First the name – the AQTF is simply that – Australian Quality Training Framework without a year at the end. However, at this time of transition it is useful to use the year version simply to differentiate between the 2007 version and the new version 2010.

The biggest change is in the splitting of the AQTF into 2 – one being the Essential Conditions and Standards for Initial Registration and the other being the Essential Conditions and Standards for Continuing Registration. The format of both is the same, however, the wording and some of the requirements are different between the two.

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The nine Conditions of Registration are now at the front with the three standards following as the new name indicates. I strongly suggest that

RTO management read carefully the requirements in this AQTF version, as at times the change is one word, which provides a new emphasis and at times, new direction of compliance.

The suite of documents are the AQTF Essential Conditions and Standards for Initial Registration and the AQTF Essential Conditions and Standards for Continuing Registration (both are 10 pages). There is also the accompanying AQTF Users' Guide to the Essential Conditions and Standards for Initial Registration (80 pages) and AQTF Users' Guide to the Essential Conditions and Standards for Continuing Registration (92 pages). If you are really into reading then you can also get the AQTF Audit Handbook, which is 68 pages, and the AQTF National Guidelines for a Registering Body, which is 52 pages.

As far as I know, these are only available electronically and no print versions are made (unless your registering body has printed them).

All publications are available to download from www.training.com.au You will need to read carefully the AQTF Users' Guide to the Essential Conditions and Standards for Continuing Registration – while this is not a legislative document, and as such will not be audited against, it does provide great detail as to what the requirements are in obtaining compliance. Notice the frequent use of the wording "The RTO must..." ㄰

HIGHLIGHTS Here is the highlight tour of the Essential Conditions and Standards for Continuing Registration as most interested in this are already RTOs. If you are thinking of becoming an RTO, then you need to refer to the Essential Conditions and Standards for Initial Registration.

Below is a listing of only the new changes that you will need to be aware of, with revisions to be made to your systems. While some may seem familiar, it is the wording that has changed and others are completely new requirements. I have included my comments in italics in each section.

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CONDITION 1 The RTO's senior officers and directors, or substantial shareholders who are in a position to influence the management of the organisation, must satisfy fit and proper person requirements unless these requirements have already been met through other legislative provisions.

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The RTO must also explicitly demonstrate how it ensures the decision-making of senior management is informed by the experiences of its trainers and assessors.

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This is interesting, as for the first time other senior members, not only the CEO, must meet the fit and proper test. This is, however, familiar to those who have CRICOS approval. Note that trainers and assessors need to be consulted in the forming of management decisions – notice the words "explicitly demonstrate..."

CONDITION 2 Providing a statement demonstrating its financial viability and/or its annual financial statements and/or a business plan on request of the registering body.

Here the registering body will decide how this is to be shown and RTOs will be advised. In NSW a third-party company (who has extensive experience in the higher education sector) will be used to verify financial statements and viability.

CONDITION 5 The RTO must provide the following fee information to each client:

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The total amount of all fees, including course fees, administration fees, materials fees and any other charges

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Payment terms, including the timing and amount of fees to be paid and any non-refundable deposit/administration fee

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The nature of the guarantee given by the RTO to complete the training and/or assessment once the student has commenced study in their chosen qualification or course

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The fees and charges for additional services, including such items as issuance of a replacement qualification testamur and the options available to students who are deemed not yet competent on completion of training and assessment, and

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The organisation's refund policy.

STUDENT FEES Where the RTO collects student fees in advance it must ensure it complies with one of the following acceptable options:

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(Option 1) the RTO is administered by a State, Territory or Commonwealth Government agency.

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(Option 2) the RTO holds current membership of an approved Tuition Assurance Scheme.

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(Option 3) the RTO may accept payment of no more than $1000 from each individual student prior to the commencement of the course. Following course commencement, the RTO may require payment of additional fees in advance from the student. This can only occur if at any given time the total amount required to be paid (which is attributable to tuition or other services to be delivered to the student) does not exceed $1,500.

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(Option 4) the RTO holds an unconditional financial guarantee from a bank operating in Australia for no less than the full amount of funds held by the RTO, which are prepayments from students (or future students) for tuition to be provided by the RTO to those students.

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(Option 5) the RTO has alternative fee protection measures of equal rigour approved by the registering body.

This is the biggest amount of changes in any of the conditions or standards and is significant in that it explicitly defines what financial

information is required to be provided pre-enrolment. While the AQTF has always requested that fees paid in advance be protected, now it specifies how this is to be done via one of the 5 options.

Interesting new inclusion is the provision of the 'nature of the guarantee' by the RTO to complete the training (i.e. what happens if provider defaults).

In NSW the fees paid in advanced requirements are to be in force from 3 Jan 2011.

CONDITION 6 The RTO must have a student records management system in place that has the capacity to provide the registering body with AVETMISS compliant data. The RTO must meet the requirements for implementation of a national unique student identifier.

The requirement of AVETMISS compliant data system will be new for those who have not undertaken government funding programs. There are over 100 individual items in the database with approx. 28 items required by State training funding bodies – AVETMISS Light provides for 12 elements. Each jurisdiction will define what data elements it needs so you will need to consult with your registering body. NCVER has a list of AVETMISS complaint databases on its website, however, be aware that NCVER does not endorse any of them – the listing is s i m p l y t h e re . M o re i n f o r m a t i o n v i a www.ncver.edu.au/content/compliancefaq.htm

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The unique student identifier will be a national number that goes with the student across qualifications and jurisdictions. This system is still under consultation managed by the South Australian Government.

Both AVETMISS data and the student identifier are timetabled to begin 3 Jan 2011 in NSW.

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(c) Can demonstrate current industry skills directly relevant to the training/assessment being undertaken, and

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the client is an employer or government agency. The user guide has much information in regard to this new requirement.

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TRAINERS’ AND ASSESSORS’ QUALIFICATION REQUIREMENTS

(d) Continue to develop their Vocational Education and Training (VET) knowledge and skills as well as their industry currency and trainer/assessor competence.

While this was implied in AQTF under Professional Development, this has now been more clearly defined as requirements in both VET and industry currency. The industry currency is frequently being stated in training packages. The new Beauty training package SIB10 has the statement "Comprehensive current knowledge of the industry, current industry practices and the job role against which performance is being assessed" for assessors. Auditors will then be looking to see how current is maintained.

Standard 1.5 (d) Is systematically validated.

Some RTOs have undertaken a token annual "validation" of assessment, which would not meet the newly required "systematically" validation of assessments, including RPL. The users guide has useful information regarding a validation plan and implementation. Remember in the new Beauty training package, employability skills will also need to be incorporated and validated.

Standard 2.1 The RTO establishes the needs of clients and delivers services to meet these needs.

This changes the emphasis of the 2007 standard 2.1. Depends who the RTO's clients are – these could be students, government and industry.

More thought is required in who clients are and how to determine their needs and how to meet them.

Standard 2.7 The RTO provides appropriate mechanisms and services for learners to have complaints and appeals addressed efficiently and effectively.

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The user guide places emphasis on feedback mechanisms to prevent a grievance escalating into a complaint. While still needing a complaint and then an appeal process, the RTO may be better advised to have mechanisms in place prior to a complaint.

Standard 3.1 The RTO's management of its operations ensures clients receive the services detailed in their agreement with the RTO.

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The wording in the AQTF has changed from a contract to an agreement (as in 2.3). This follows from 2.3 in ensuring that the RTO can follow through with the agreement in the provision of services ensuring the rights as a consumer are protected. This is also relevant if

AQTF standard 1.4 outlines the requirements for qualified trainers and assessors. This refers to the National Quality Council (although soon to be replaced by The National Standards Council) which defines what qualifications and competencies are required in the NQC Special bulletin of 7 July 2010. This document is available v i a http://www.nqc.tvetaustralia.com. au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0020/53 7 5 0 / N Q C _ S p e c i a l _ B u l l e t i n _ _New_Requirements_for_AQTF_Trainers_and_Assessors.pdf

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This has the required qualification as the TAE40110 replacing the TAA 40104 qualification with all reference to the BSZ40198 qualification removed, as this is not seen as a direct equivalent to the current qualification required by trainers and assessors.

However, it also allows for trainers and assessors to demonstrate equivalent competencies. In other words, it is not the NQC's intention to require trainers and assessors to upgrade their formal qualifications if they are able to demonstrate they have gained the required competencies through continued professional practice.

Therefore if you as a trainer have the BSZ40198 qualification it will be possible to show via consistent vocational education and training professional development practice (not vocational industry) that you have the equivalent competency to the TAE40110. This equivalent would be mapped to the TAE40110 content.

AQTF of course is not in isolation as it fits into the broader VET system, and as you are aware the individual jurisdictions will be changing legislation to provide a National Regulator the legislative power to oversee all compliance. This Regulator will be a Commonwealth statutory body under the Commonwealth Education Minister.

The administrative power will rest with a Commission of three, with offices in each State. It is envisaged that the National VET Regulator will be operational from April 2011 and will be integrated with Tertiary Education Quality and Standards Agency (TEQSA) [compliance in Higher Education] in 2013. At this time Victoria and Western Australia will have 'mirroring legislation' enacted aligned with the Commonwealth legislation.

Terry Everitt is known as a Master Aesthetician in Advanced Clinical Aesthetics and lectures at medical and aesthetic conferences, both in Australia and internationally, while also being an educationalist in the development of quality assurance learning.

He is also a consultant in legislative compliance requirements within the vocational education and training environment. Terry holds membership with the Australasian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M), Australian Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Australian Institute of Training and Development and the Australian Institute of Management among others. He can be contacted on 0414 483 758.

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APJ 62

COSMOPROF ASIA 15TH ANNIVERSARY www.cosmoprof-asia.com

Where are you going, beauty?

Cosmoprof Asia will celebrate its 15th anniversary on 10th – 12th November 2010, with many new initiatives for all the different sectors represented on the show floor. From nail to hair, beauty salon and perfumery, visitors will be able to join the exciting special events by visiting Cosmoprof Asia 2010, the most important forum in the Asia Pacific region for the world of beauty. More than 1,500 exhibitors from 40 countries and regions will meet with 41,000 visitors from all over the world at an exhibition area up to 54,000sqm.

SPECIAL EVENTS AND CONFERENCES SPA SOUL PROJECT

Photo: Enrico Labriola/Auraphoto.it

Organiser: Cosmoprof Asia Ltd Event sponsors: Pevonia Featuring: • Spa Soul exhibition lounges • Live presentations • Cosmoprof Asia Spa Conference Media partner: AsiaSpa Magazine

THE WORLD OF BEAUTY MEETS AT COSMOPROF ASIA 2010 NOVEMBER, 10TH-12TH - HONG KONG CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE 15TH EDITION B O LO G N A

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INTERNATIONAL INDUSTRIAL PROCESS AND LOCAL SOURCING Where do packaging suppliers meet brands requirement in Asia nowadays Seminar Organiser: Cosmoprof Asia Ltd JAPANESE NAIL MARKET Captures the world’s attention Organiser: Cosmoprof Asia Ltd In cooperation with Creabeaux Magazine and NPO Japan Nailist Association Featuring: • Seminar • Live presentations

I S TA N B U L

Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd Australian Pavilion Enquiries: Austrade - melbourne - australia - ph. +61.3.9648.3179 - fax +61.3.9648.3100 leonie.smith@austrade.gov.au Marketing and Promotion: SoGeCos s.p.a. - milan - italy - ph. +39.02.796.420 - fax +39.02.795.036 sogecos@cosmoprof.com Sales Office Asia Pacific: UBM Asia Ltd - hong kong - ph. +852.2827.6211 - fax +852.3749.7345 cosmasia-hk@ubm.com Sales Office Europe, The Americas, Africa and Middle East: Fairsystem International Exhibition Services s.p.a. bologna - italy - ph. + 39.051.282.848 - fax +39.051.282.895-896 - fairsystem@fairsystem.it

Supported by:

FOREIGN BRANDS IN CHINA 7TH Development of the Cosmetics Market in China Conference Organiser: Cosmoprof Asia Ltd In cooperation with Cosmetic Observer Magazine

ON-LINE PRE-REGISTRATION NOW AVAILABLE on www.cosmoprof-asia.com (Until 5 Oct 2010) For trade only, visitors under 18 will not be admitted

02/08/2010 3:34 PM

tpa – trade practices act ㄰

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What the Trade Practices Act has to say about Competition and Restrictions of Trade The Trade Practices Act (TPA) sets certain guidelines to promote fair and efficient competition within markets and to provide protection for consumers. Whether you are aware of its laws or not you are still liable, and substantial fines can be imposed on offenders. In this article we will be covering the TPA requirements with regard to competition restrictions.

In the previous issue of APJ we presented an article entitled “Professionals and the Trade Practices Act – DEALING WITH CLIENTS”, which addressed regulatory requirements as stipulated by the Trade Practices Act with regards to advertising and the information you communicate to gain clients.

We stated that as a professional organisation APAN has a fundamental responsibility to provide a voice for its practising professionals. Part of that responsibility is to not only provide a community of practice within the profession, but to also identify and set in place Codes of Conduct that reflect government requirements as well as uphold the integrity of the profession.

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The APAN Code of Ethics has been carefully mapped to cover key regulatory requirements. However, some information may require further clarification, for example, specific regulatory obligations with regards to the laws of the land and how it may impact your business and professional activities.

The Trade Practices Act (TPA) sets certain guidelines to promote fair and efficient competition within markets and to provide protection for consumers. Whether you are aware of its laws or not you are still liable, and substantial fines can be imposed on offenders.

In this article we will address some important information on pricefixing as we have become aware that to some extent this is sometimes happening in a bid to prevent competition in favour of the interests of the relevant parties, while it may not necessarily benefit the end user.

The TPA stipulates that it is important that practitioners understand these rules and how they apply to their day-to-day operations.

Members of APAN may call on the organisation for further clarification in this regard if they are not sure of their position in a commercial arrangement.

CARTEL CONDUCT Some of the most important rules in the TPA prohibit agreements that reduce competition. Such agreements are frequently referred to as cartel conduct. Cartel conduct is prohibited. It occurs when businesses agree, whether formally or by way of an understanding reached between them, to act together to reduce genuine competition, through price fixing, sharing, bid rigging or restricted output, instead of competing with each other. A business will be in breach of the TPA, first, if it makes an agreement that contains a provision of this type and, second, if that agreement is put into effect. It is not uncommon for more than one type of cartel arrangement to be used at the same time. There are four types of cartel arrangements. These are price fixing, allocating customers, bid rigging and output restrictions.

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APJ 64

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PRICE FIXING Price fixing involves competitors agreeing on prices, or pricing structures, instead of competing with each other. You may consider coming to such an arrangement with another salon for example for the sake of avoiding “overdiscounting”. This may appear to be a fair arrangement for the benefit of both salons, however, it is prohibited by the Trade Practices Act. This type of conduct is not limited to the “fixing” of prices, but also includes the control of maintenance of prices. The agreement may be in writing, but more often takes the form of informal verbal agreements.

The agreement between competitors may be about: ! A minimum price ! A method of discounting or pricing ! A selling or buying price (this does not necessarily mean all parties set all prices at the same level) ! Rebates, allowances or credit terms that relate to supply What all professionals must know: Avoid discussions and, most importantly, agreements with other professional practitioners about prices. ! Take care to ensure that prices are set by each individual practitioner independently ! If assistance in working out fee schedules or other pricing information is required, professionals should ask their association for assistance. Please note that APAN is only permitted to provide general advice in this area and will not seek to impose pricing policies or structures.

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portion of their agreement that contains a cartel provision is contained in a contract. They also need to ensure that the joint venture is for joint production or supply. The joint-venture defence to the cartel provision is a complex legal area and any parties contemplating a joint venture, which may otherwise contravene the cartel provisions, should seek legal advice before doing so.

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This occurs when competitors agree to prevent, restrict or limit the supply of goods and/or services, with the purpose of driving the cost of these items higher due to their lack of availability. While individual businesses or professionals can make a legitimate decision to do this for their own reasons, it is where a coordinated agreement is made between businesses to collectively control the supply of goods or services that the competition rules risk being breached. This type of behaviour reduces competition and increases the cost of the product or service to the detriment of consumers.

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It is also worth noting that it is often the key business players within a profession that will make these types of agreements. If only small

ALLOCATING CUSTOMERS, SUPPLIERS OR TERRITORIES When competitors agree to divide or allocate customers, suppliers or territories among themselves they are sheltering from competition, denying consumers the benefit of choice and engaging in cartel conduct. Such actions include: ! Allocating customers by geographic area ! Dividing contracts within an area ! Agreeing not to compete for established customers ! Agreeing not to produce each other's products or services ! Agreeing not to expand into a competitor's market The key is that competitors agree among themselves how the market will operate, rather than allowing competitive market forces to work.

What all professionals must know: Agreements between competitors to divide or allocate any customers, suppliers or territories are prohibited ! Markets should operate freely, and should be driven by competition, not agreements between competitors.

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BID RIGGING Where competitors agree to ensure that bids for a tender are submitted (or withheld) in a particular way, they are engaging in bid rigging.

This type of conduct is also known as collusive tendering. It breaches the competition rules as it interferes with the genuine bidding process, often fixing the outcome so that a particular business is able to obtain the job it wants through providing the most attractive tender.

While collusive tendering is prohibited, there is an exception to the cartel offences and civil prohibitions for joint ventures. In short, parties claiming the joint-venture exception must ensure that the

players are involved, it is unlikely to have the desired effect of increasing prices overall.

What all professionals must know: ! Do not make any agreements with your competitors about controlling (including limiting) the supply of goods or services to customers. ! Any decision to limit the output of your business e.g. by cutting back on your hours, must be made independently.

CONCLUSION As competition becomes tougher it is not uncommon for competitors to consider establishing agreements that will restrict consumers from purchasing elsewhere. While each company can set it own rules on how it wishes to trade, it will enter into problems if it attempts to establish agreements with other salons or companies to better “control” the market.

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The key issue we wish to raise is, if in doubt check first with your solicitor. If you wish to obtain additional information you can access this from the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission office by phoning their infocentre: 1300 302 502, Small Business Helpline 1300 302 021 or visit their website: www.accc.gov.au

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APJ 65

new Biomimetic: the ‘anti-ageing’ strategy

For many years, anti-ageing skincare has been dominated by a tendency to force the skin into daily exfoliation using a variety of aggressive and acidic substances. Research has shown that this was an effective way to keep the signs of premature ageing at bay.

As with most things in life, there is another side to the coin – one that is less attractive.

Experts are warning about the negative consequences of dehydration and irritation, of interference with the natural processes of the skin and the potential destruction of collagen and elastin fibres caused by long-term inflammatory responses. Concerns about the effects of such an aggressive approach are increasingly leading formulators to shift their focus to cell renewal for the answer to younger, more radiant-looking skin. It is an approach that works with the skin and supports its natural rebuilding processes. Ways are being sought to encourage the skin’s own mechanism of cell renewal and to protect existing cells from damage.

An effective anti-ageing regime will always consist of two components: a corrective modality, followed by support and maintenance. By their very nature, corrective skin treatments will be aggressive. Some level of trauma has to be inflicted to achieve the desired correction. During re-epithelialisation the barrier function of the skin is impaired, often leading to excessive trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), accompanied by hyper-sensitivity, irritation and inflammation. At this point, the body’s natural healing response takes over. The best course of action is to apply topical formulations designed to protect and support the skin during the recovery process. The aim should be to restore conditions conducive to rapid healing and normalization of the skin. Potential skin irritants such as acids should be avoided. A biomimetically derived formulation, designed to reduce moisture loss and containing skin-identical substances, will ensure best results.

The term ‘biomimetic’ or ‘biomimicry’ refers to the transfer of biological methods found in nature to technical applications – in simple terms, to copy nature. The idea is not new – Leonardo da Vinci drew on inspiration from nature to design a flying machine.

A more recent example is the Speedo Fastskin FSII Suit worn by American Swimmer Michael Phelps at the 2008 Beijing Olympics, which imitates the effect of shark skin in the water.

Dr. Horst Spiller has transferred this philosophy to cosmetics. The healthy acid mantle is a natural emulsion of the type ‘water-in-oil’ combining sebum (lipids) and water. It contains a range of chemicals such as amino acids, sodium PCA, urea and more. The intact, fullfunctioning acid mantle is the main reason young, healthy skin looks like it does – radiant, well-hydrated and even in tone. This pleasing appearance is not achieved by force and it cannot be reproduced by force. Once the corrective phase of a treatment cycle is completed, the best choice is to mimic the conditions found in the healthy acid mantle and then get out of the way to let nature do what it does best.

A formulation developed along biomimetic lines will lead to a quick re-establishment of the epidermal barrier, followed by superior hydration of the stratum corneum thus leading to a significant reduction in erythema. It creates an optimal environment for cellular repair.

Dermatologists have been aware of this for years. The problem is that standard formulation technology dictates that water in oil emulsions will have an oil content around the 50 per cent mark.

Such creams are too rich in lipids and too heavy to be acceptable to today’s consumer.

It is not widely known that formulation technology exists today that allows the production of water in oil emulsions with a lipid content as low as 19 per cent. This type of formulation, developed by Dr. Horst Spiller of Dr. Spiller Biocosmetic in Germany, is rich in skin identical substances, vitamins, powerful anti-oxidants and other skin-friendly actives. It can be truly termed ‘biomimetic’ – it reproduces the acid mantle as closely as possible. For ultimate care following a corrective treatment, this cream would contain peptides which, in trials at the US National Institutes of Health, have been shown to stimulate the natural rebuilding processes without irritating the skin.

Working with your skin, not against it The aim: To provide an effective solution for a variety of skin conditions with minimum trauma to the skin, quick recovery and normalisation with high levels of safety.

The method: corrective treatments with Herbal Aktiv Peel® followed by supportive and balancing care with Dr. Spiller Biocosmetics. The corrective phase is completed in five days.

The process: Like the skin’s natural

acid mantle, Dr. Spiller’s proprietary Hydratain® emulsions are of the type ‘waterin-oil’. They lead to a quick re-establishment of the stratum corneum barrier, thereby reducing dehydration, inflammation and hypersensitivity. This effectively supports the skin’s natural cell renewal, recovery and normalisation processes.

BEFORE: August 2009

AFTER: October 2009 Yvonne B, Salon Owner, Carindale QLD

The results: The photos to the right illustrate the effectiveness of the ‘OmniDerm’ method.

Before photos were taken following seven years of cosmeceutical care. After photos were taken two months later. They are the result of two Herbal Aktiv Peel® treatments combined with Dr. Spiller biomimetic care.

ET. NOT SOLD ON THE INTERN EXCLUSIVE TO BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS ONLY.

• Wrinkles • Sun Damage

BEFORE: August 2009

AFTER: October 2009 Jo O, Skin Therapist, Carindale QLD

IMPROVE THE APPEARANCE OF: • Pigmentation • Scarring • Acne/Pimples • Enlarged Pores

• Blackheads/Milia • Stretch Marks

For more information visit www.omniderm.com.au or call 1300 301 007

As part of your detoxification, cellulite or slimming program the Ionic Foot Spa will allow you to provide your clients with a series of safe, relaxing and effective treatments to assist in their weight loss or just for body wellness. The benefits of the Ionic Foot Spa include: ! Aids in heavy-metal removal ! Positive effect on weight loss ! Increases oxygen and energy levels ! Increases recovery time from illness, accident or surgery ! Enhances nutrient absorption ! Improves sleep and focus ! Symptomatic relief from oedema, gout, swollen joints, pain or headaches ! Removes waste products and musculo-skeletal acid build-up

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The relaxing way to Kick Start the Detoxification Process Wellness and beauty are very much intertwined as we all know, but not every salon can afford a wet area or is in the position to offer body wraps. Now there is another way where you can offer both a service and a take-home product to aid detoxification in a gentle, yet effective way.

THE IONIC FOOT SPA Scientists have determined that the reason so few humans live beyond 120 years is due to the role of accumulated toxins over a life- time that lead to accelerated ageing and ultimately to disease. Toxic build-up creates a favourable environment for germs to grow, compromising the immune system and the internal elimination processes, resulting in damage to your health and energy levels. Poor health and toxic waste build-up can be attributed to diet, lack of exercise, medication, illness, lack of sleep and most of all stress. While toxic wastes can be accumulated over a number of years, a diligent program of detoxification can effectively eliminate this build-up and restore your body to a healthy state within a limited time frame with the aid of the Ionic Foot Spa. Furthermore, the Ionic Foot Spa will improve the function of the digestive system and increase your metabolism.

HOW IT WORKS

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The Ionic Foot Spa is a hydrotherapy detoxification cleansing system, which eliminates bodily toxins through the use of negatively charged water ions. The negative ions produced by the Ionic Foot Spa create a gentle vibration that aids in the release of unwanted toxin particles through the pores on the soles of your feet. The control head of the foot spa delivers an electrical current through the ioniser that is placed into the water alongside the feet. Since most toxins in our body are positively charged, they are conveniently and painlessly neutralised and drawn out by the negative ions produced by the Ionic Foot Spa. The toxin particles are eliminated out of the body through the skin via osmosis and neutralised as they are attracted by the highly concentrated ion field in the spa water. Regular detoxification sessions reduce stress on the vital organs and the immune system by unblocking energy meridians and through the elimination of toxins.

DETOX FOOT PATCHES To further support your client's detoxification process you can provide them with an effect tack-home product through Detox Foot Patches.

Foot patches are a non-invasive and natural way to detox the body.

They simply warm up and stimulate the soles of your feet while you sleep. Over the past 50 years hundreds of different chemicals have been introduced into our environment from the food and water we drink to the air we breathe. A build-up of toxins in the body can lead to an imbalance and ultimately lead to health problems. Foot patches maintain a powerful reputation in traditional folk medicine with welldocumented use in China that dates back over 500 years. Simple yet effective, foot patches are based on the principles of Eastern medicine, which teaches that toxins move away from the heart and towards the extremities of the body including the feet, where they accumulate.

In traditional Chinese medicine the feet are regarded as your "second heart" and a mirror of internal health. During the day, when you're standing up and moving about, gravity pulls toxins down towards the feet. Foot patches are designed around this principle. Simply place one to six patches on the body at bedtime. You might be surprised to find that a clean, white patch can become soggy, wet and black after 812 hours of use. The Detox Patches come in a value pack of 10. Each patch is impregnated with active therapeutic extracts renowned for their ability to effectively draw toxicity from the skin. Worn on the soles of the feet while you sleep they can aid in extracting harmful toxins from the body, improving sleep, increasing energy and vitality and promoting a feeling of wellbeing.

A series of treatments is recommended, followed by an eight-week interval. Then the patches may be reintroduced for continued detoxification.

For information on the IONIC FOOT SPA and the DETOX FOOT PATCHES please phone Melanie Rumler from Advanced Skin and Beauty Clinic Ph: 03 9699 4000 or email: info@advanced skinbeauty.com.au

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APJ 68

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[0% Acid] [0% Harsh Chemicals] [100% Natural]

[ [ [

finer skin

firmer skin

youngerlooking eyezone

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Change your clients’ skin! with 2B Bio Peeling Unlike other peels that only work on the surface, 2B Bio-Peel activates the exfoliation process from within the skin. The therapist is in full control of the peel and can individualise the peel to her diverse client needs.

An advanced treatment with immediate results for all skin conditions from Anti-Ageing needs, Pigmentation and Acne.

The 2B Bio-Beauty Skin Care is active and effective, niche and affordable.

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Professional Use Only Products Retail Products With Generous Mark-up And Samples Used In Cosmetic Surgery Clinics World-wide For Effective Re-surfacing And Anti-ageing Results Low Opening Order No Minimum Re-ordering Required Great Results With Acne

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Phone Patou Aesthetics Distribution:

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Ph 07 4057 8365 Mobile 0419 665 383 ㈵

Patricia Mangano

email: patriciamangano@hotmail.com

www.patou.com.au

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When it comes to fat loss there are several treatments that promise results, but are unable to deliver long-term benefits. Often this is because in actual fact all they do is eliminate a little fluid out of the body, which ultimately returns. As serious professionals it is important that whatever technologies or treatments we chose to introduce to our practice we first seek evidence of scientific validation, otherwise we risk our own credibility, not to mention that of our profession.

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There is now solid scientific evidence that ultrasonic cavitation technology can deliver credible results, and these results are backed by independent studies. Dr Gustavo Leibaschoff is a plastic surgeon who holds numerous credentials, including President of the International Union of Lipoplastry and president of ICAM USA Inc International Consultant in Aesthetic Medicine.

Dr Leibaschoff will be visiting Australia in September to share his knowledge and his vast international experience on the problem of cellulite and how new technologies offering fattissue reduction using ultrasonic cavitation are achieving great success (see page 25 for further details).

To further explain this technology we present an article below by Dr Scandura, who elaborates on both the technology of ultrasonic cavitation and its protocols.

Cellulite and adipose tissue are the most difficult physical imperfections to treat and eradicate, not only for the professionals in the field of aesthetics, but also for doctors specialising in cosmetic treatments as well as in plastic surgery.

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It is scientifically proven that after a cavitation session, excess liquid and lymphatic stagnation are immediately drained and expelled by means of the urinary system, and this just 10 minutes after the treatment.

Socio-cultural aspects, concerning most Western and Eastern European populations, have transformed the treatment of body imperfections and weight loss into a goal to be pursued at all costs, so much so that to appear fit today is a kind of status symbol.

A new generation solution for effective

FAT LOSS & CELLULITE REDUCTION

The treatment of "cellulite" and adipose tissue is now more accessible to professionals thanks to ultrasound cavitation systems like Alypos (Quanta System, Italy). This device incorporates all the features of the second-generation machines based on multi-frequency cavitation ultrasound.

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Cavitation is a physical phenomenon that consists in the formation of pockets of steam (bubbles) within interstitial areas. These bubbles implode, causing shock waves capable of selectively damaging the membranes of fat cells (adipocytes). Temperature has an effect on the phenomenon of the cavitation, because it alters the so-called vapour tension. If the temperature increases, so does the vapour, thereby enhancing the effect of cavitation.

The device Alypos functions within a selective range of frequencies, by using the "SHDB" technology (Superficial High Definition Body Contour based on Multi-frequencies).

The control parameters, which can be set by using a microprocessor in

By Dr Salvatore Scandura MD Plastic Surgeon Milan, Italy pulsed or continuous mode, permit a gentle and selective release of ultrasounds, acting directly on adipocytes and therefore on cellulite.

Alypos cavitation acts not only on the lysis by breaking down the adipocitary cells, but also on "dismantling" of the adipocytes from the fibroscierotic structure in which they are trapped.

Cavitation affects the fibroid structure of cellulite, stabilising the den aturisation of the fibres. ㄰

NUMBER OF TREATMENTS NEEDED Treatment protocols indicate between 7-12 sessions, each lasting a maximum of 45 minutes, according to the area to be treated. The treatment is carried out using an ultrasound gel or its equivalent, which is to be smeared on the area being treated. The therapist must move the handpiece gently without lingering on the same area. The treatment of a single area may last for 7-20 minutes, depending on the protocol being applied as well as on the extent of the region being remodelled.

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APJ 70

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The treatments must be repeated weekly and the results are visible from the first treatment, showing a significant reduction in centimetres. It is always advisable to measure the patient, using also plicometric methods (where the skin is pinched with a tweezer-like device to determine its density), as well as to keep, in addition to the client’s medical history, a data of descriptive pictures showing pre and post-treatment photographs. Prior to any treatment and following the recording of data, a careful impedenziometric body analysis should be carried out, in order to quantitatively define the lean body mass index and the percentage of fat.

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These measurements must be repeated mid-cycle, and on completion of the course of treatments. A further final measurement should be taken three months after the last treatment. This is because the remodelling of the dissolved fat continues naturally within the body (even in the absence of further treatment with Alypos) and from the macrophages as the expulsion of the contents of the broken-down cells continues to occur post-cell lysis.

METABOLISM It is scientifically proven that after a cavitation session, excess liquid and lymphatic stagnation are immediately drained and expelled by means of the urinary system, and this just 10 minutes after the treatment. There is also significant increase in diuresis in the hours following treatment, which continues to the next day.

The urine will smell and change in colour, becoming a pale yellow due to a slight increase in acidity. This can be observed after the first sessions with Alypos, especially in clients with a considerable percentage of body fat.

The fat in the body which has been dissolved is absorbed and metabolised by the lymphatic circulation, the liver and kidneys, and is phagocytised by macrophages cells of the lymphatic system.

CONTRAINDICATIONS Cavitation offers exceptional results in the safe treatment of adipose tissue and cellulite, however, as with all treatments there are always contraindications. In the case of cavitation they are pregnancy, heart conditions, vascular diseases, thrombosis, thrombophlebitis, pacemakers, patients being treated with anti-coagulants, patients who have undergone a transplant, carriers of large metal prostheses, diabetics and epileptics.

Furthermore, cavitation must not be used on the following areas: armpits, popliteal area, groin, testicles, female genital organs, hands, face and neck. ㄰

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On the basis of blood tests and clinical data performed on patients treated with the "SubDermal Body Shaping" method, we can confirm that there are no specific clinical side-effects or adverse effects caused by abnormal chemical, physical or biological alterations.

The intensity produced by the cavitational Alypos ultrasound is effective on the lysis (dissolving) of a considerable amount of fat tissue localised in areas such as the abdomen, buttocks and hips.

After just one treatment, an appreciable reduction of up to three centimetres in circumference can be observed.

Ultrasound cavitation offers a credible solution to cellulite as it addresses the root of the problem through its effective fat cell dissolving capabilities.

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If you would like further information on ALYPOS “SubDermal Body Shaping” please contact CSHE Australian Pty Ltd on 1800 628 999.

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APJ 71

key ingredient ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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You may have heard the expression, "Stress is a killer". The reason is because stress causes magnesium to be lost from the body more quickly, and magnesium is our anti-ageing mineral that helps protect and rebuild cells, supports enzyme activity, and keeps us balanced and relaxed. When you add to this the fact that our food supply has become very depleted in magnesium, you can see how most people end up with a magnesium deficit, which in turn can lead to a whole range of health problems, one of which is depression.

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Magnesium researchers have referred to magnesium as "the miracle or the antistress mineral", however, the "master mineral" would also be a good description. Our cells need more magnesium to function properly than any other mineral. It is used in 325 different biochemical processes and coordinates or co-factors with many other nutrients, making them more efficient and harmonious in their operation, just like the conductor of an orchestra.

For example, the absorption of zinc and iron (essential for mental health and energy) is inhibited when magnesium is low, and calcium needs to pair with

The role of Magnesium in stress, depression and cognitive function

By Sandy Sanderson B.A. magnesium in order to get into the bones. Without sufficient magnesium the excess calcium settles instead in the soft tissue and joints, forming calcium crystals that harden cells and cause inflammation in various places, including arteries and brain.

Magnesium is a natural anti-inflammatory that helps to quell pain, swelling and inflamed states. It also helps the blood flow more smoothly and delivers more oxygen, so vitally important for brain cells.

Following is an excerpt from the book The Magnesium Miracle by Carolyn Dean MD ND. Dr. Dean is not only a medical practitioner, but also a naturopath, herbalist, acupuncturist, nutritionist and author of several books on health. In fact, Dr. Dean has been in the forefront of health issues for over 30 years.

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As this article is addressing the role of magnesium on stress and depression you may find the information below from her book informative.

SEROTONIN, MAGNESIUM AND DEPRESSION You may be familiar with serotonin, the body's natural 'feel-good' brain chemical. Magnesium is important in the serotonin story because it is a necessary element in the release and uptake of serotonin by brain cells. With proper amounts of magnesium, nature makes sufficient serotonin and you experience emotional balance.

But when stress depletes magnesium, a vicious cycle spins out of

control, and depression can occur. The body needs magnesium in order to release and bind adequate amounts of serotonin in the brain for balanced mental functioning.

The pharmaceutical industry has focused its research for the treatment of depression on selective serotonin re-uptake inhibitors (SSRIs), such as Prozac, to capitalise on serotonin's chemical effects, instead of giving serotonin what it really needs – magnesium.

SSRIs create artificially elevated levels of serotonin in the body by preventing its breakdown and elimination; serotonin lingers longer in the brain and theoretically causes mood elevation. This is what is supposed to happen, but everyone has a different reaction to the manipulation of their brain chemicals. For some people prolonged rising levels of serotonin can liberate them from a long depression.

For others the drug can lead to anxiety and irritability. A small but significant group can feel released from their apathy and act on suicidal and homicidal thoughts. Another group of people tends to have flattened moods in which they can neither weep or laugh, keeping them from the extremes of depression or mania, but relegating them to a one-dimensional life.

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This was Maggie's situation. She was on Prozac and desperately trying to come off it because she was unable to cry or experience real emotions. Maggie was down to one-quarter of a 10mg tablet, but was afraid to stop in case her depression came back. She also had high blood pressure, high cholesterol, periodic muscle cramps, and constipation.

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I asked her to have her magnesium tested, and her cardiologist said it was normal; he said she didn't need magnesium, but should continue to take her five prescription medications to control her symptoms. She called me when her GP thought her worsening muscle cramps were a major blood clot in the leg. We didn't have time to ship a blood sample to the lab that performs red blood cell magnesium testing, so I encouraged her to take 300mg of magnesium twice a day and go for a Doppler scan to rule out blood clots. Fortunately, the scan was negative, so Maggie was able to avoid several more medications to treat blood clots, and the magnesium was already working to relieve her symptoms. Within a few weeks Maggie was finally off the last small amount of Prozac and able to laugh and cry again.

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Because depression can be so debilitating, even life-threatening, it's understandable that doctors feel strong measures are required to combat it, but these strong measures don't always work. The alternative that many doctors are missing is the nutrient connection. Magnesium deficiency is a potential cause for every type of depression. All treatment protocols should begin with adequate doses of this valuable mineral.

CONCLUSION It is important to understand as aesthetic therapists that magnesium can be more efficiently taken up by the cells when applying magnesium chloride to the skin than if taken orally in the form of tablets or powders. This can be done by dissolving magnesium chloride flakes in a bath or foot soak, making a solution of the flakes for mouthwash or body spray, and via a magnesium moisturiser made with natural plant butters and oils. Visit www.elektralife.com for further details or see page 78 and 83 in this journal.

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It is no secret that when it comes to anti-ageing skincare it is no longer considered the exclusive domain of the female gender. While men have been slower in coming forward in demanding their own skincare this has now changed. Baby boomers are not ready to retire yet. They are fiercely contending for their right to hold on to their career positions despite the flood of fresh-faced younger competitors vying for their positions.

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Even though "experience" has great worth, so does a fresh, energetic and attractive appearance. In Australia, the most common cosmetic procedure for men is still Botox, followed by microdermabrasion, laser hair removal and peels coming fourth. In terms of surgery, eyelifts take the number one position and the fifth most popular procedure is nose reshaping.

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The male aesthetic market has definitely come of age and men are now seeking their own brands and formulations for serious anti-ageing solutions. As female skincare and aesthetic procedures are enjoying new advances so men are sometimes looking over their partner's shoulder in search of masculine cosmetic options in both skincare as well as facial treatments.

While several skincare products can be effectively used as unisex, male skin has certain differences that warrant their own unique formulations.

SPECIAL CHARACTERISTICS OF MALE SKIN INCLUDE:

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The epidermis is 30% thicker and 20% more cornified Greater capacity to retain moisture Greater protection against harmful agents It has greater micro-vascularisation Better skin oxygenation It is better able to allow for cellular respiration Has a more consistent mesh of fibres Firmer skin due to its high content of collagen The appearance of wrinkles is delayed compared to females 75% more sebaceous secretion compared to females Is more prone to oiliness and impurities

The Ageless Man

As we can see men's skin has different physiological characteristics from that of women. It is better able to protect itself from external aggression and is more resistant to natural deterioration caused by age. For this reason, under normal conditions, caring for men's skin requires a series of basic treatments aimed simply at supporting and maintaining its extraordinary natural properties and strengthening the integrity of its hydration and collagen structure.

renewed oxygenation and blood flow for internal nutrient support to the skin.

While male professional treatments are usually less complex than female treatments,they can definitely be stepped-up to include antioxidant-rich serums, masks and hydration formulations.

To address the specific needs of men and in time for Father's Day Skeyndor has just launched a complete range for male professional treatments that are also supported with a comprehensive, high-quality homecare range with serious skin-renewal ingredients.

The SKEYNDOR MEN line is a professional range of cosmetics designed with two fundamental objectives:

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TO MAINTAIN – the homeostasis (balance) of men's skin,

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TO CORRECT – tiny blemishes (aesthetic deviations) that are

which, is the key factor that gives it its excellent properties.

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Despite its incredible resilience men's skin still has its Achilles heel, which is when the ageing process eventually kicks in, it takes place more rapidly. Furthermore, the daily exercise of shaving can often disturb the skin's pH balance, especially if performed with foaming alkaline cleansers and finished off with alcohol-based after-shaving lotions. This can lead to potential irritations and make it more prone to environmental and sun damage.

THE IMPACT OF STRESS ㈵

As with women, men are also subjected to the pressures of life and to the impact of stress that can also affect their skin. Male treatments should therefore include a de-stressing face and scalp massage concentrating on the neck and shoulders as this will assist with

more common in the skin of young and older men. ㄰

MAINTENANCE OF HOMEOSTASIS A selection of three essential cosmetic ingredients which when combined, guarantee the excellent maintenance of the skin's natural functions and properties present in all the products of the SKEYNDOR MEN line are:

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ORGANIC SILICA – stimulates tissue regeneration and reinforces its structure

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VITAMIN C – consolidates the skin's defences and delays signs of

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THERMAL WATER –

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soothes, rebalances and remineralises the skin

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BLEMISH CORRECTOR The SKEYNDOR MEN line includes products for both clinic and homecare for a complete and more effective treatment of common aesthetic problems in young skins as well as those that are showing the signs of age. The active ingredients have been selected depending on each need and the subject's age, distinguishing between: ! Men aged under 30 years ! Men aged over 30 years

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changes in hydration. Dermosaccharides are carbohydrates of vegetable origin that are rapidly assimilated, with the capacity to bind to the corneal layer. They immediately moisturise the skin, and are resistant to washing, in addition to reducing skin irritation.

SKEYNDOR MEN PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS There are two professional treatment packs formulated exclusively for your male clients:

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REDNESS PREVENTING AFTER SHAVE – This is an extrarefreshing balsam that reduces irritation from shaving. Its formula enhances the healing action of Dragon's Blood, together with a biotechnological complex that accelerates the evolution of microcuts, reduces redness and prevents any impurities. It calms the skin, leaving the face feeling relaxed and fresh. Other active ingredients: Organic silicium, Vitamin C and mineral-rich thermal water as well as calming plant extract. Dragon's Blood Extract is a healing agent extracted from the resin of the Croton lechleri tree that it renowned for its healing properties. Its active ingredient is Taspine (an alkaloid) and polyphenols. In vitro this ingredient has proven to help regenerate and heal the skin trauma 10-20 times faster by stimulating the production of collagen and fibroblast migration.

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ENERGIZING ANTI-AGE SERUM (suitable for 30s plus) – This serum invigorates the skin. It contains Siberian Ginseng,

1. INTENSE HYDRATING PROFESSIONAL PACK – Ideal treatment for skin exposed to extreme environmental conditions needing a hydration boost to restore skin balance.

2. EXPRESS ENERGIZING PROFESSIONAL PACK – Ideal treatment for skin suffering from fatigue and stress.

SKEYNDOR MEN RETAIL PRODUCTS The Skeyndor Men retail range offers seven incredible high-quality retail products to revive, energise, protect and improve the appearance of male skin.

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DAILY DETOX FACE WASH – Triple-action purifying mousse that provides in-depth skin cleansing and restores its external balance by accelerating cell renewal. Made with glycolic acid and a combination of cleansing agents. Thanks to its extra-soft formula it can be used daily without harming the skin and is ideal for removing impurities and excess oil to improve the skin's appearance. Other active ingredients: Organic silicium, Vitamin C and mineral-rich thermal water.

SMOOTHING SHAVING GEL – Gel for a fast shave, without cuts or irritation. Its foam texture lifts the hair and makes it easier for the blade to slide over the skin without causing irritation. This exclusive formula with organic silicium is designed to restore the external balance of men's skin, leaves the face feeling comfortable and soft after shaving. Other active ingredients: Alantoine, aloe vera and grape extract for its anti-oxidant properties.

SHINE CONTROL 24H AQUA EMULSION – Deep hydration emulsion for reducing shiny and controlling oily skin.

Made with long-lasting moisturising agents and taurine, as well as an osmo-regulating active ingredient that improves the skin's resistance to dehydration. It immediately unifies the skin's appearance as its micro-particles absorb any excess oil, and also its oil-regulating agents reduce the skin's natural production of oil.

This product will help refine the pore size, and standardise mixed and oily skins. Active ingredients include organic silicium, Vitamin C and mineral-rich thermal water.

an adaptogen that stabilises cell metabolism and activates the immune system, improving the skin's resistance to stress and extreme atmospheric conditions. It smooths the appearance of lines and wrinkles and prevents skin fatigue and the signs of ageing. Contains a SPF 10, organic silicium, Vitamin C, thermal water and cell-energising extract.

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EYEBAGS RECOVERY GEL (suitable for 30s plus) – Decongestant gel to soften eye puffiness and the signs of fatigue around the eyes, while improving skin hydration levels. It produces a calming and refreshing feeling around the eyes.

Contains fresh mango extract, liposomes with Swiss glacier water, organic silicium, Vitamin C, thermal water, collagen amino acids, skin lifting agents and plant extracts.

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ABDO FITNESS SHAPING GEL-CREAM – This is a skin firming gel developed particularly for the abdomen. Made with a selection of active ingredients scientifically developed and tested on men as a supporting product for weigh loss and skin toning.

Capturing the eclectic male clientele can boost your business. With this exclusive professional and retail male product range you can extend your services and expand your client base with greater ease.

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BLEMISH CORRECTOR <30 (for under 30 years old) – This formulation contains a wide spectrum of moisturising agents necessary to prevent dryness, reddening or tautening of the skin.

It contains Taurine - an active ingredient with osmo-regulatory properties that protects the skin from moisture loss due to constant

The SKEYNDOR MEN is available from Vogue Image Group.

For further information phone 03 9821 0033 or Freecall 1800 554 545. Email: info@vogueimage.com.au

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The issue of weight gain is one that is constantly plaguing modern society at a galloping pace. So much so that the problem of obesity and overweight has now become an epidemic in this country to the point that the government has appointed a task force to examine causes and solutions to this problem. Obesity is costing the Australian Health System over $31 billion every year.

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As the aesthetic industry we should be concerned and looking at ways that we can provide services to support weight management, minimising toxicity and improving body shaping, as this is very much a growing market.

In very recent times scientific evidence is shedding new light on the causes of weight gain that has led to different approaches on how to achieve long-lasting results in fat burn and weight management.

This article presented by Bonnie Sleep is part of a series of articles that will take us through a journey of new information on the mind/body connection to weight loss.

In this issue Bonnie presents some incredible and sometimes amusing information on how we relate to food and the role of genetics as contributing factors to our relationship to food and their tastes.

FAT GENES AND LEPTIN What makes us likely to be fat or thin? Is it what we have inherited or what we eat every day?

Do we all have fat genes?

The science of how to successfully reduce weight and keep it off is very big business. In aesthetics we have been guilty of wanting the 'look good' outcome at almost any cost. However, the truth is that having the right fat composition is really an inside job.

Scientists have long assumed that body size/shape was largely hardwired into chromosomes and that lifestyle played a secondary part in determining adult morphology. In his landmark research, Claude Bouchard at Quebec's Laval University conducted twin studies that overfed by 1000 calories a day 12 sets of male identical twins. Each man's weight gain was more similar to that of his twin than to any of the other test subjects. This confirmed the primary impact of genes on body morphology and subsequent genome scanning has identified many genetic markers for weight.

The remarkable Human Genome Project used special enzymes to slice through DNA samples and unlocked the secrets hidden within the complex DNA helix. For example, an alteration on chromosome 15 leads to the rare, but life-threatening Prader-Willi syndrome with virtually no satiety and perpetual hunger.

Another gene on chromosome 2 leads to Alstrom syndrome, which causes visual and hearing issues, coupled with diabetes and skyrocketing weight gain.

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Unwanted Fat Storage Wrong Food or other internal factors? Part II

In fact, out of 23 pairs of human chromosomes, fat-promoting problems turned up on chromosomes 2, 3, 4, 5, 7, 8, 11, 12, 15, 16, 20 as well as on the X chromosome. The latest research indicates that there are a variety of fat genes on every chromosome except the Y chromosome, so yes, we all have fat genes. Now that we have clarified that, the question remains – do we also all have thin genes?

Here is what we now know:

LEPTIN AND THE THIN GENE ON CHROMOSOME 7 A very special gene was located on chromosome 7, one that makes leptin, the all-essential hormone that curbs your appetite and makes your body burn calories faster. Leptin is produced in fat cells and

By Bonnie Sleep B.Ed., M.Ed. ㄰

when the body has enough body fat leptin signals the brain to slow down appetite.

Leptin was made famous in 1995 when rat studies showed much promise and researchers felt that it would be the answer to creating valuable appetite-taming results overnight. However, there was nothing but spectacular failure as human trials failed to demonstrate weight loss. The conundrum became that most overweight people already have high levels of leptin in their bloodstream, but they appeared to be leptin resistant. In other words, their leptin does not work to signal a curb in appetite.

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As you gain weight your expanding fat layer makes more and more leptin, which signals the brain to turn down your appetite. As leptin goes up so appetite goes down. Having your leptin working well within your body is vitally important, as adding extra leptin doesn't necessarily help your metabolism much, but losing leptin can create serious problems, and this is exactly what happens to many dieters.

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Leptin's role is now known to be more about stimulating appetite when body fat drops significantly, prompting hunger to fill up the fat stores again, rather than the other way around. As soon as you cut down on food your leptin secretion slows down. So while an increase in leptin is not powerful in reducing your appetite, decreasing your leptin can make your appetite soar and have negative effects on fat storage, fat burning and sugar metabolism.

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So the answer to my question above is yes, we all have thin genes that trigger the production of the leptin-producing mechanisms.

THE THIN GENE ON CHROMOSOME 8 MAKING THE ENZYME LPL OR LIPOPROTEIN LIPASE Another action that is related to fat loss or thin genes is LPL secretion. This enzyme lines all your tiny blood vessels and extracts fat that passes by connected to micro-particles and then passes this fat into fat cells for storage. However, this enzyme can also switch and send these fat particles into muscle cells to be burned as energy.

This is one of the most critical factors in determining fat burn or fat storage in the body. This action is determined by the hypothalamus and so a true endocrine rather than digestively triggered function.

Overall your genes control around 30-40% of the speed of your calorie burn, the rest is down to food and lifestyle. One in 14 individuals have a gene for especially quick metabolism based on high LPL levels that make them resistant to weight gain no matter what they eat. So yes, we all have the thin gene or fat-scavenging benefits of LPL, and some are even LPL super endowed, however, this is set and governed by the master hypothalamus gland.

THE THIN GENE ON CHROMOSOME 11 MAKING THE HORMONE INSULIN The third thin gene factor is the role of the hormone insulin in turning on metabolism after eating. The choice of foods eaten can influence insulin's ability to trigger an after-meal fat burn, which releases calories as body heat, rather than storing them as fat.

To understand the effects of insulin it helps to understand the RMR or resting metabolic rate (also known as BMR or basal metabolic rate), which indicates how fast your body burns calories at rest. RMR is critical to your body weight, and accounts for 60-75% of all calories burnt all day long. Another 10 % is used to digest and absorb food and the balance 15-30% is determined by exercise. So turning your RMR up can have a major effect on weight loss.

In 1997 a gene was identified, also on chromosome 11, that has a special effect on RMR. This gene produces a protein called an uncoupling protein 2 (UCP2) that disconnects digestion from fat storage so that what you eat is not stored as fat. People with this gene have higher RMRs and less body fat.

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However, if you are not one of the lucky fast metabolisers with this gene, you can still speed things up with a well-managed insulin production.

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Secreted by the pancreas, insulin's job is to push proteins and sugars into the cells of your body to create new cells and available energy.

Certain nutrients from food trigger the release of insulin into the bloodstream. From here it travels into muscles, liver and fat tissues where it works with tiny absorption pores to push proteins and sugars into cells. During this process RMR rises as these natural proteins and sugars build glycogen, which cause cells to release calories in the form of heat.

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you get the 'shape' gene from both your parents you will develop weight gain around your waist, the classic 'apple' shape. Without this double gene load or getting only one so it can act as recessive, your weight will appear on your hips and thighs, the 'pear' shape. So yes, there is genetic generic predisposition for fat distribution.

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DO WE ALL HAVE TASTE GENES? Genetic blueprints are in place before birth setting all our taste buds with a preference for a sweet taste. Newborns are drawn to the mild sweetness of mother's milk and babies are often repelled by any hint of bitterness. It can take some time for tiny tastebuds to mature to accept anything bitter, but this can be related to ethnicity and food-type exposure.

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We also inherit a taste tendency, either a super-taster, a taster or a nontaster, and taste researchers use a substance called PROP (6-npropylthiouracil) to determine taste sensitivities. PROP is bitter and three out of four Europeans will spit it out, while one in four cannot detect it. Among Asians and Africans, only one in10 cannot taste it. If neither parent gives you the PROP-taster gene you become a nontaster. This means you will not be bothered by bitter tastes. But if you get the gene from both parents then you will be a super-taster and be more alert to bitter tastes. One gene and you are in the middle and considered a taster with detection, but not sensitivities.

If you are a super-taster the surface of your tongue will actually look different to other people, with more tiny mushroom-shaped taste papillae among your tastebuds. If you apply a vegetable food dye and are patient and don't gag, you can count these papillae. If you count fewer than 23 you are a non-taster, 23-25 and you are a taster, however, if you have more than 25 you are likely to be a super-taster.

This is called the thermic effect of food or TEF. This is the most effective way to burn calories without fat absorption. Glycogenbuilding foods are natural sugars from carbohydrates, so pasta, vegetables and beans are good examples. The process can be drastically damaged if insulin becomes poisoned by being affected by grease or fat.

The minuscule absorption pores that usually convey nutrients inside the cells become clogged or unresponsive in the presence of certain fats. This makes them resistant to the insulin help and not able to uptake the available nutrients. The pancreas responds by secreting more insulin and this can become a vicious cycle, leading to insulin-secretion abnormalities and serious health issues.

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This secretion vicious cycle is where a critical fat-burning factor comes into play. When insulin is active and pushing sugar and protein nutrients into cells, the process of fat burning is temporarily shut down. This interruption to fat-burning is brief, but when insulin resistance develops, the fat burning process is shut down for protracted periods or even permanently in some cases. If this continues, then insulin levels rise, which increases the LPL in your fat tissues and decreases LPL in your muscles, impairing your ability to burn fat. And so the cycle continues. So yes, we all have thin genes and various mechanisms to assist fat burning, but we may be turning them off.

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DO WE ALL HAVE GENES FOR BODY SHAPE? Body shape has been found to be related to genetic endowment. If

PROP is a gene marker. If your taste buds detect it, you are likely to have heightened detection of other factors like sweetness and fattiness.

These heightened tastes will affect your food choices too. Those who are very sensitive to PROP will detect even a hint of bitterness in foods, like grapefruit and cruciferous vegetables, so they tend to avoid them.

Those who cannot detect PROP can eat anything and often appreciate super sweet foods like desserts, as they can't detect any taste sensation that is overpowering.

If you are a super-taster you will detect the bitterness of caffeine and need milk or sugar to dilute the flavour. And the good news is that super-tasters are less likely to develop an addiction to alcohol or calorie-dense fatty food.

The bad news is that as a super PROP taster you run the risk of turning away from healthy vegetables towards unhealthy foods.

3D model of the Leptin structure

Super PROP tasters not only have more sensitive tastebuds, but they are more sensitive to medicines and seem to have a lower pain threshold. Nontasters on the other hand are reputed to need higher doses of medication, are likely to be more extroverted and stimulus seeking, and the tasters are right down the middle. And while non-tasters are more likely to gain weight, super-tasters need to deliberately choose healthy foods that do not set off their taste alarms.

Scientists think acute taste sensitivities was nature's way of detecting poisons, as food that is spoiled often has a bitter or sour taste.

So if you could detect this before consumption, presumably you would live longer and so would your offspring with the same sensitivities, giving you a survival of the fittest advantage.

So yes, we all do have taste genes, but they don't have to determine our eating patterns, and certainly not our weight-gain tendencies.

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DO WE ALL HAVE POTENTIAL FOOD ADDICTIONS?

body and how we combine the benefits of the thin genes to work in our favour.

Chocolate is considered the single most-craved food in the Western world. Other types of sweets are rated as second most-craved foods, with savouries such as pizza, potato chips, meat and nuts considered third and starchy foods such as bread, biscuits and pasta as fourth. So yes, many categories of processed foods are addictive.

But is this the whole story or are there still enormous roadblocks to weight loss for many careful eaters and gym junkies?

Chocolate contains the stimulant caffeine and theobromine, plus phenylethylamine (PEA) that works like an opiate. Chocolate's extra dimension that makes it popular and craved is its ability to powerfully stimulate opiate receptors in the brain, much more than other fatsugar mixtures, such as ice cream or biscuits. Opiates are designed by the body to stimulate eating, reduce pain, create feelings of pleasure and many other feel-good and survival behaviours, critical as modifying factors in human behaviour, so they are not all bad, but they do need to be managed.

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Weight Loss

Weight Gain

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Leptin Increased food intake Decreased energy expenditure

Certain popular snack foods also create significant opiate effects.

The Snickers confectionery bars and M&M chocolate buttons are good examples of high opiate effects. A mild opiate effect can be created from jelly and marshmallows, but none at all from corn chips or popcorn. Food chemical appeals vary widely and many consumers would not be aware of the chemical effects many of these processed foods exert on their body.

So yes, we are all exposed to the possibility of food addictions in many of the everyday foods that make up the typical Western diet.So becoming fatter or thinner is a delicate interplay of many factors. It is about food, but it also very much an inside job. How we burn or store fat is significantly affected by our inherited gene stocks, and also by our very simple fat-burning, appetite-regulating and fat-scavenging mechanisms. However, we can control effectively how we fuel the

Leptin Decreased food intake Increased energy expenditure

REFERENCES: Barnard, Dr Neal, 'Turn Off the Fat Genes!' Pan Macmillan 1992, Australia.

Brennan AM, Mantzoros CS (June 2006). "Drug Insight: the role of leptin in human physiology and pathophysiology – emerging clinical applications". Nat Clin Pract Endocrinol Metab 2 (6): 31827. doi:10.1038/ncpendmet0196. PMID 16932309. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Leptin.png http://www.3dchem.com/molecules.asp?ID=154

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SPOTLIGHT ON PRODUCTS

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OMVEDA UNVEILS IMPRESSIVE NEW LOOK

Australia's pioneer and leader in traditional Ayurvedic Therapies and products, OmVeda has repackaged all 200ml products to reflect a more classic and consistent look. Created to compliment the existing gold topped home-care products, OmVeda's upgrade is a more sophisticated presentation featuring a sealed pump action to maximise retail sales.

Creator of OmVeda, Yasmin Sadikot comments "OmVeda's evolvement and strong presence in Australia and internationally lead us to this more streamlined and stylish re-vamp. Our high performance and traditional formulas remain the same." The product re-packaging includes Body Gel, Sandalwood Cleanser, Rehydrating Body Lotion, Honey Body Moisturiser and Hair Care products including Green Apple Shampoo and Amla Shampoo . For more information please contact OmVeda on 1 300 662 383 or visit www.omveda.com.au

Belmacil Professional Eyelash & Brow Tints Is there a femme fatale among your clients just waiting for expression? Offer your clients the way to real glamour. Banish the boring with the extensive range of lash and brow tints from Belmacil. With 11 luxurious colours to choose from including black, blue black, dark brown, honey brown, light brown, graphite, blue, violet, blonde brow lightening crème, red and green, you can create a look for your clients as individual as they are. Original formulation now available! Long-lasting, gentle, yet delivers incredible results, Belmacil offers exceptional quality and value. Contact Ex-Import Niche Products Ph: 07 5576 6388 Email: otto@eximport.com.au or visit www.eximport.com.au. Belmacil and Elleebana will be exhibiting and demonstrating lash perming, tinting and collagen facials at the International Beauty Expo stand 3516, Hall 3, come and say hello and check out our trade show specials!

OSAINE Skin SeaStem - Rebuilding Night Cream 50ml – 250ml OSAINE Skin SeaStem is the first marine-based product to make use of Stem Cells. The Rebuilding Night Cream is an intense nourishing emulsion night treatment for dry and dehydrated skin. The rejuvenating action of sea stem cells is achieved by the repairing and restructuring effect of seaweed extracts.

For more information on this incredible product phone Good Looking Beauty on 02 9894 8068.

Timexpert for the ultimate anti-ageing results For radiant luminous skin you can't beat Germaine de Capuccini's Timexpert range. Combining the most advanced peptide technology and natural ingredients Germaine de Capuccini anti-ageing solutions can rival the best products in the industry. If you are looking for advanced formulation that offer amazing results then you will find that Germaine de Capuccini will not only impress you, but more importantly, your clients who now demand the very best.

With Timexpert results you will no doubt be rewarded with their loyalty. . Contact Germaine de Capuccini on 1300 432 100 or visit www.germaine-de-cappucini.com.au

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Germaine de Capuccini Body Patches With summer just around the corner this is the time to start your body shaping promotions. To help you achieve successful results Germaine de Capuccini has launched their Body Patches. Each patch is impregnated with active botanical to target fat cells and cellulite. The ingredients are then delivered transdermally, targeting the problematic regions that need greater attention. As part of an overall diet and exercise plan the Body Patches offer a much-needed boost to achieve positive results faster. Germaine de Capuccini offer a comprehensive range of face and body products that are results-driven, combining the best of nature and biotechnology and feel absolutely glorious.

Contact Germaine de Capuccini on 1300 432 100 or visit www.germainede-cappucini.com.au

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Beauty Feet™ The ultimate and easiest solution to flawless feet!

Beauty Feet™ has been developed to assist in revealing flawless feet to meet the demands of hectic schedules in today’s society. It is the most convenient and hassle-free way to take your feet back in time – the time when you were a child.

Beauty Feet™ is scientifically proven effective, manufactured and tested to the utmost precision to assist in the prevention and treatment of dry calluses caused by excessive day-to-day friction.

Unlike any product on the market it prevents callus build-up without scrubbing, filing, sanding, scrapping or applying heel balms, which may lead to additional calluses after skin regeneration. These socks are filled with liquid solutions for the ultimate beautifying effect. The simple to follow steps will take off chapped layers of unwanted skin in no time! Beauty Feet™ is Australia’s first to prevent and treat calluses, based on the concept of natural skin peeling. The same principle applies in nature with animals and plants when they shed their own skin - the natural way.

Ingredients in Beauty Feet™ are organically derived from nature.

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The Eyes have it! SHOW SPECIALS The popularity of Eyelash enhancement services is growing at a phenomenal rate. It's all part of the anti-ageing appeal that consumers are looking for. These services are not only in great demand. but are also the most profitable. To help you increase your profits even further the Hovan's Group has decided to launce an incredible SHOW SPECIAL at this year's International Beauty and Spa Expo in Sydney. Here is what you can expect:

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Heavenly Curls Eyelash Perming Kit - HALF PRICE If it’s length you are looking for perming, the lashes can create curl that will profile the length of the lashes giving them greater definition and making the eyes look more youthful.

Heavenly Curls Eyelash Enhancer - HALF PRICE If you are looking for volume the Heavenly Curls Eyelash

Please quote the promotional code “APJ0168” to redeem your special introductory offer from BeautWise™: Buy 12 get 1 FREE. Buy 24 get 3 FREE (while stocks last). 07 3012 9494 enquiries@beautwise.com.au

Salon Spa Retailing Made Easy!!

Have you ever lost retail sales because your employees do not possess the skills to convert customers to your product brands? Have you ever lost retail sales because your employees lack confidence or motivation to make the sale? If you answered "YES" to either or both of these questions then you need industry expert Caroline Nelson's Salon Spa Retailing Made Easy manual.

In this manual you will learn her Secrets to Increase Average Retail Sale per Customer; UpSell and Up-Grade Each Sales Transaction; Improve Communication Skills.

If you are truly interested in developing a team of professional aestheticians to drive up each sales value and start building a more profitable business then you have to stop procrastinating and learn the techniques of Salon Spa Retailing Made Easy.

To order your copy visit www.nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com or phone Nelson Beauty Business Management 0410 600 440 Visit Stand 1109 Sydney International Spa & Beauty Expo

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Enhancer is the ultimate treatment. Hovan's unique formulation utilises scientifically validated ingredients including Hexapeptide-11, green tea extract and sugar Beet Betaine strengthening the natural lashes and enhancing a denser growth transforming them to their full potential.

Heavenly Curls Eyelash Extension Kit - HALF PRICE

This amazing technique of lash grafting can create instant volume and intensity to even the thinnest lashes. Hovan's Heavenly Curls Eyelash Extensions are natural, light and easy to apply. Full training is provided.

For these and other SHOW SPECIALS visit Stand 2618 at the Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo in Sydney or phone 02 9938 2111 Tollfree 1300 886655, email: sales@hovansgroup.com.au www.hovansgroup.com.au.

Elleebana Aloe Vera Collagen Mask Nature's replenisher

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The virtues of pure Aloe Vera are well documented and in recent times the healing and hydrating powers of Aloe have made headlines. Now with Elleebana's Aloe Vera Collagen Mask you can incorporate a fantastic add-on treatment to your menu, at minimal cost. The natural restorative properties of Aloe Vera when combined with collagen result in an especially soothing treatment for even the most stressed, damaged or irritated skin. Used after intensive facial treatments such as microdermabrasion or stronger chemical peels, Aloe Vera will reduce erythema and inflammation and soothe and calm the skin. The potent hydrating and nourishing agents in this mask will also repair skin damaged form excessive sun or wind exposure.

Contact Ex-Import Niche Products Ph: 07 5576 6388 Email: otto@eximport.com.au or visit www.eximport.com.au. Visit us also on stand 3516 at the International Spa and Beauty Expo in Sydney for our trade show specials.

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New DUO COLLAGEN MASK from BeautWise™ SKEYNDOR SENSATIONS The jewels of body indulgence to take home The new SKEYNDOR SENSATIONS body offerings are a journey into wellbeing and the ultimate in home care for every client. Nourishing to the very core, each product blends heavenly aromas and lush textures to nurture the senses and the skin for the absolute in restoration, rejuvenation and pampering. The products draw intensely on the healing properties of the earth, wild blossoms and herbs and, the tradition of Ayurveda.

The Caresse Body Serum bathes the body in a divine blend of Orchid, Ylang Ylang, Wild Rose and Poppy Extracts that leave behind a subtle but sublime aroma that lingers lightly on the skin. Reigning in dryness and offering long term hydration, the Caresse Body Serum is an exquisite after shower or bath experience for a satiny, softer and supple skin.

The Thermal Springs Peeling Salts formula ensures every client can tap into the rich healing properties of the springs of Salies de Bearn, laden with minerals and trace elements. Cleansing, purifying and remineralising, tiny mineral salt rocks gently polish for a more refined and renewed and softer skin. Re-energising, it speedily dissolves dead surface cells boosting the skin's sparkle and tone.

Gliding onto the body, the Indian Peel Butter that melts into the skin on contact and requires no rinsing off. Its unique formula features the tiniest of skin-loving grains to effortlessly sweep away dry, dusty layers to leave the skin feeling like silk. Thirsty skins can drink in the benefits of its ultra nourishing texture. Its blend includes Turmeric, nature's defender and anti inflammatory, Sesame and precious Indian Saffron both of, which are recognised for their high antioxidant properties, in addition to Avocado and Jojoba for supreme softness.

Renewing and oxygenating and taking care of dry surface cells to ensure satiny smoothness, the Orange Body Peeling Cream melts zesty Orange, Apricot, Grape and Lychee for a more refined and softened skin. The perfect collection for skin results and the ultimate relaxing and rejuvenating experience. For more on the Skeyndor SENSATIONS products please call Vogue Image Group on 1 800 554 545 or (03) 9821 0033 or email info@vogueimage.com.au.

AHAVA LIQUID SALT from the Dead Sea

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Every salon and household should have this product and first aid kit for use in beauty treatments, acne face and body, ingrown hairs, skin disorders (a must have for clients with psoriasis), dry skin, sun burn, iron/cooking burns, muscular skeletal aches and pains, boils, cysts, cuts, infections, cold sores, shingles etc.

Every therapist should have this for use in face, hand, feet and body treatments. Its uses are endless and the more therapists experiment with it, the more we discover its unique and therapeutic qualities and the improvement they get with AHAVA LIQUID SALTN to their treatment outcomes.

Liquid Salt is very similar to Magnoplasm.

MAGNOPLASM is a dehydrated mix of glycerol and magnesium sulphate. It is used as a treatment for acne, abscesses, boils and carbuncles and for drawing out plant thorns and needles. Its action is due to the powerful osmotic action it has on living cells. AHAVA LIQUID SALT works in very much the same way, however it is also has so many more uses as indicated by the short list above. LIQUID SALT is a product that is available exclusively to AHAVA. Phone AHAVA AUSTRALIA 1800 824 282 www.ahava.com.au

This soluble crystal gel mask, the Duo Collagen Mask, is a newly developed, epochmaking beauty product that supports the skin’s elasticity. Duo Collagen Mask dissolves into lukewarm water (about 40 degrees Celsius) as you rub it into the skin. Different from the traditional woven cloth face masks, this spa-quality face mask provides you with a professional skin care regime as well as a relaxing experience. The smooth and translucent Duo Collagen Mask covers the face neatly, while nourishing and leaving the skin with an exceptional refreshing hit. Key ingredients include marine collagen, hyaluronic acid, aloe extract and vitamin E. As a secondary application, the Duo Collagen Mask can be used as a moisturising gel for the whole body. Just let it dissolve in lukewarm water and rub it into the skin. The soluble nature of the Duo Collagen Mask is an eco-friendly product that is 100% biodegradable. Our products offer residual income for your salon, repeat business and a small outlay for great returns! Please quote the promotional code “APJ168” to redeem your special introductory offer from BeautWise™. Buy 12 get 1 FREE. Buy 24 get 3 FREE (while stocks last). Phone 07 3012 9494 or email: enquiries@beautwise.com.au

EGF/DNA Recovery Skin recovery at the highest level Two dynamic products will make all the difference to your results after AHA peels or microdermabrasion.

EGF/DNA Recovery Concentrate and AGF/DNA Recovery Crème have been formulated to assist in re-balancing and strengthening the skin's immunity, enhancing the skin's elasticity, pH balance and reducing the appearance of inflammation.

These products contain Beta Fructan, Aminoguanidine and Beta Glucosamine as the key ingredients, as well as Aloe Vera, Pumpkin Seed oil, Carrot oil, Sage extract, Allantoin and Rosewood essential oil. EGF/DNA Recovery Concentrate and AGF/DNA Recovery Crème are companion products and are a must to ensure the skin receives the best possible care and support for optimum epidermal growth factor recovery and hormonal balance. For further information contact CSHE Australia Pty Ltd Ph: 1800 628 999 or visit www.clinicalskincare.com.au or visit us on stand is No. 1324 at the International Beauty and Spa Expo in Sydney.

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APJ 82

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INSKINCOSMEDICS launches Australian skincare simply called 'O' at the Sydney Beauty Expo 'O' Cosmedics is about timeless and ageless beauty, feeling comfortable and confident in one's own skin and empowering yourself with proven skincare technologies and ingredients that provide that sense of security, that your skin will always look its best, around the clock. Containing an exclusive to 'O' skincare technology called V8 Peptide Complex™ this anti-ageing complex appears in different concentrations in nearly all of the O products. This is a results driven, cosmedical range that includes corrective cleansers and peels, concentrated power serums, potent retinol serums and concentrates, an eye firming youth serum and recovery creams. Each product is paraben free, contains no petrochemicals, artificial colours, Sodium Lauryl Sulphate and chemical and preservative free. All ingredients are chirally corrected and organic where possible. Only pure essential oils are used for fragrance and each product has specifically formulated to perform more than one function.

All this, along with the research to back it. So don't you 'O' it to yourself to give it a try! For more information on inskincosmedics go to www.inskincosmedics.com or call 02 9712 8188.

Presenting Pure Inventions A revelation in Hydration Developed by nutritionists, Pure Inventions is a revolutionary line of liquid antioxidant extracts that is dedicated to promoting beauty and wellness from within and is the wave of the future. This unique line of fruit and green tea extracts turns ordinary water into much more it is all natural, great tasting and contains high potency antioxidants. Sometimes what you are not, is what makes you great! ! Pure Inventions has no sugar or artificial sweeteners ! Pure Inventions has no artificial ingredients ! Pure Inventions has no caffeine ! Pure Inventions have no calories or carbs ! Pure Inventions is gluten free, and can be enjoyed by diabetes. Simply add to your favourite water and enjoy. The range will be launched at the International Beauty Expo in Sydney. See us at booth 2405 for these and other special launches. Ask as for: ! Liquid Antioxidant Green Tea Extracts - Original, Raspberry, Tropical ! Antioxidant Fruit Extracts Pomegranate and Acai Berry, Blueberry and White Tea ! Fit and Slender Introduce these incredible nutrients to you clients, staff and family — they will love them.

Contact Absolute Spa Ph: 1300 262 275 www.absolutespa.com.au ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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New! Triple Action Body Peel with 20% AHA The first body exfoliant with absolutely no messy granules has just been launched by Belle Natural Skincare. Triple Action Body Peel with 20% AHAs performs three unique ways — dissolves and exfoliates dead cells through effective AHA activity, eliminates and prevents ingrown hair and shaving bumps in just minutes and removes unwanted self-tan from the hands and body in one easy application.

Available in 1 litre for Professional use ($58+GST) for an effective full body exfoliation as well as in 250 mls for retail sales ($19.65 + GST) Purchase 16 250ml bottles and receive 10% discount $17.70+GST. Your recommended markup is 70%.

Triple Action Body Peel also contains Shea Nut Butter, vitamins A, C and Allantoin and Sweet almond oil leaving the skin silky smooth and soft. Contact Belle Natural Skincare Ph: 08 8346 9672 or visit www.bellenaturalskincare.com.au

Magnesium Cream Elektra Magnesium has released an easy way to ensure your clients receive the re-mineralising benefits of magnesium with the introduction of Magnesium Cream - a deliciously creamy body butter that is easily absorbed into the skin without leaving a greasy residue.

Magnesium Cream can be used for a full body massage or as a facial massage cream. It is also excellent for manicures or pedicures leaving the skin hydrated and energised with a gentle aroma from essential oils included in this formula.

The cream, as well as the Magnesium Crystals , are available in bulk quantities for professional use, as well as in retail sizes for client purchases.

Additionally, Elektra offer Magnesium Oil, which can be sprayed onto the body for a magnesium recharge and an allover health and wellness benefit.

Contact Elektra Magnesium ph: 07 5533 1088 www,elektralife.com

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APJ 83

Celebrating Success

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Launched five years ago, Belle Natural Skincare is making its mark on the Australian professional aesthetic market as the product that performs. The South Australian owner Belinda Riley, is proud to report the positive impact the brand is achieving in a fiercely competitive market in such a short time. This interview aims at uncovering some of the reasons for this success.

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APJ 1: Belinda, what is your background and when and why did you launch Belle Natural Skincare?

Belinda: I am a qualified beauty therapist for 14 years and have worked passionately in my

profession constantly since I qualified. Belle Natural Skincare was launched five years ago.

The catalyst for these formulations was when I was seeking to assist someone with eczema and eventually found a pharmaceutical product that gave her great results. I wanted to work with products that did more than pampering, but offered real results, so I decided to develop my own brand where I could have input into what I wanted as an outcome.

APJ 2: Despite the Global Economic Crisis you are still experiencing great success, what do you attribute this to?

Belinda: The demand for quality products and services is still high. Therapists love our products because they can deliver excellent results and being Australian-made are cost effective and come in generous quantities. Our products are renowned for their high quality actives combining the best of nature and science. We include a high percentage of vitamins, nutrients and active ingredients which make all the difference. Our products contain natural active enzymes, alpha-hydroxy acids, vitamins, minerals and amino acids. We also use vitamins A, Ester-C and E, Coenzyme Q10 and Alpha Lipoic Acid, which supply the skin with powerful antioxidant protection.

APJ 3: This must be a difficult question, but what is your favourite product?

Belinda: All our products are very good, but perhaps the most popular product is the Strawberry and Cinnamon Microdermabrasion Scrub – it delivers exceptional results and smells really yummy.

Belle Natural Skincare Purity with high performance results

APJ 4: What is the advantage of salons introducing Belle Natural Skincare to their clients?

Belinda: Clients don't need to pay the earth to get excellent results.

Our products deliver the results you would expect from a professional brand without the price tag, they come in generous quantities and are also quite luxurious, adding to their appeal and making them pleasurable to use. This balance makes them very popular and easy to sell.

APJ 5: What is the latest exciting new development for Belle?

Belinda: We have just launched our Triple Action Body Peel with The Belle Natural Skincare is an Australian professional, highperformance skincare range consisting of 55 products designed to achieve excellent treatment results to meet the requirements of the most demanding salon and their clients. The range offers advanced formulations for specialised facials, peels, pedicures, full body wraps and zoned body treatments to address every skin and body need. ㄰ 㤵 㜵

Belle Natural Skincare is rich in proven anti-ageing elements, natural vitamins, proteins and minerals such as hyaluronic acid CoQ10, peptides, antioxidants and pure plant extracts. A comprehensive unique salon treatment range that incorporates the holistic benefits of the purest natural ingredients (96% natural) for amazing and immediate results.

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Phone: 0400 299 692 Email: belinda@bellenaturalskincare.com.au www.bellenaturalskincare.com.au

20% AHA, which has superb skin-smoothing ability. It is also enriched with Vitamin A, Allantoin and sweet almond oil. Excellent for ingrown hairs and to exfoliate dull skin cells and fading tans. It smells delicious and can deliver great results for smooth skin without the need for scrubbing the body. A great product for both professional use as well as a great retail product!

APJ 6: Do you have any incredible testimonials you would like to share with us?

Belinda: Salons are always giving us excellent testimonials – we get

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them all the time. You can find some of them on our website www.bellenaturalskincare.com.au – however, the most common remarks are about the quality of the ingredients and the pleasurable feel supported by excellent results and a great markup.

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For further information on Belle Natural Skincare phone 08 8346 9672 or visit www.bellenaturalskincare.com.au

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Hair & makeup by Rachel Montgomery @ Art House Creative Management

ET10076519_ABT_FP.pdf

4 & 5 September 2010

Sydney Convention & Exhibition Centre

diagnostic tools ㄰

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BODY DIAGNOSTICS The New tool for skin and body wellness

by Tess Walls Working extensively with aesthetics and spa therapies I have come to understand the importance of reviewing the whole body if we want to achieve true anti-ageing results. We must not forget that the skin on one's face is influenced by internal factors, so as aesthetic therapists we should be looking beyond the skin and also investigate what is going on within the body.

When dealing with the skin, as a rule we would conduct a skin analysis prior to our skin treatment, but how many salons, clinics or spas actually carry out an extensive body analysis, or in fact, do a combined skin and body analysis?

How valuable would it be to us if we could also be able to identify what is going on within the body? What if we could gain information that could help us discover, for example, why having treated a particular client for years she/he is still struggling with recurring lymphatic congestion and general toxin build-up in the body? Despite our good intentions and recommendations we have not been able to get the results we were looking for.

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With modern diagnostic advancements we now have new tools to assist us to accurately identify internal factors that may point to the root of the problem.

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2. Investigating the REASONS that may have contributed to the problem 3. Planning my approach in providing a SOLUTION. The most difficult one to get right is gaining the right answers for the reasons to the problem, even after carrying out a thorough client consultation. However, there are now new tools available that can assist us in gaining a more thorough internal analysis and that is through saliva and hair analysis tests that are available through PathLab in Melbourne.

PathLab is the largest independent diagnostic laboratory in Victoria.

They are non-corporate and owned by a core group of scientists and pathologists that also operate the laboratory and pride themselves on offering the highest-quality pathology services.

PathLab provides quality, comprehensive pathology services to the medical community. It is a fully accredited (both NATA/RCPA and ISO) and automated laboratory staffed by a highly experienced team of pathologists and scientists. Among the diverse and extensive range of diagnostic tests available through their laboratories they also provide Hair Analysis for heavy metals and trace elements using Atomic Absorption, as well as Saliva Testing to determine antioxidant levels and to identify other internal deficiencies.

In this article I would like to share with you the new world of body diagnosis that is now available to beauty therapists, and how you can combine it with salon/spa body treatments.

Here is an example of how these tests can be of benefit to you as an aesthetic therapist:

A THREE-PRONGED APPROACH

PROBLEM

During my initial consultation with a client I like to break up my diagnosis into three areas: 1. Identifying the PROBLEM that needs to be addressed

I have a client that presents with the following:

The skin and body are both looking sluggish and out of balance. I have

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APJ 86

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taken a full client history in which I have identified that the client does not manage her stress very well and she is starting to show signs of premature ageing. Additionally, she is suffering from headaches, her skin is dull and sluggish and she also tends to get bloated easily and suffers from puffy legs. She visits her doctor regularly and no medical condition has been identified. She is also not on any medication. So what factors could be causing these symptoms?

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This is where hair analysis and saliva tests could give us some further insight into why these symptoms exist within her body.

We recommend the tests to the client. The client goes ahead with the test and you send it away for detailed analysis. * The test results return and identify that the cortisol levels (stress hormones) are elevated. I have identified that due to constant stress the adrenalin and cortisol levels have disturbed the digestion causing bloating, as well as restricting the immune system, causing dull, sluggish skin. The high levels of cortisol have also contributed to the symptoms of premature ageing in the skin, which is identified through poor elasticity and excessive wrinkles for her age.

Scientific studies have proven that high cortisol levels caused collagen loss in the skin, which can be 10 times greater than normal.

REASON Armed with this information we now can proceed with a treatment plan that is based on more comprehensive analysis and assessment results. Having identified the problem we now can confirm that the reason for her symptoms is linked to the high cortisol levels as a result of not coping well with stress. As the elevated cortisol levels contribute to her congested circulation, digestive problems and premature ageing we would choose treatments that work specifically to support the body in minimising the impact of stress on the organs and the skin.

To further understand how stress can impact the skin and body here is a brief outline:

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When we get stressed our body goes on alert status. Since the stress response is our basic survival mechanism, when it gets triggered it overrides all other systems of the body. It virtually transforms and affects change in all major organ systems to provide us with quick energy. As a result here are some of the activities that may occur within the body: ! Adrenalins and cortisol, the stress hormones, flood our bloodstream to increase the body's metabolism and overcome the effects of fatigue. ! Sugars, fats and cholesterol from the liver are converted into fuel for quick energy ! Saliva dries up and the digestion and elimination systems slow down as blood is be directed away from our internal organs to our muscles and brain. ! Muscles become tense ready for action ! The immune system's efficiency is suppressed ! The skin may experience congestion and breakouts, especially in the form of lumps under the skin. This is the body's way of saying

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"I will put a bubble around this problem as I don't have the time or the energy to fix it now". Impurities are then encapsulated and will sit there until such time as the body has a higher immune system and the energy to break it down The body may retain fluid and extra toxins as the lymphatic system is also compromised due to the high stress levels

SOLUTION

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To reduce the cortisol levels and balance the stress-induced hormones here are some treatment recommendations: ! FOR THE BODY, MANUAL LYMPHATIC DRAINAGE MASSAGE to increase lymphatic flow and reduce fluid retention.

For home care, recommend detox patches to reduce toxin buildup. I would recommend a dry body brushing every morning, seaweed bath weekly at home (a min of 70mls of pure seaweed extract applied to a bath and soak for 20mins at least 1x per week).

For further stress management I would recommend essential oils such as basil, juniper, lavender, chamomile or marjoram and relaxing bath products for home use. ! RELAXATION MASSAGES with appropriate aromatherapy treatment-strength oils. ! HYDROTHERAPY BATH with detoxification ingredients (seaweed and/or sea salt). ! WARM BODY WRAPS to hydrate the body, enriched with vitamin C and other antioxidants to improve skin tone and elasticity and counteract premature ageing. ! FOR THE SKIN, AN ANTI-AGEING SKIN MANAGEMENT PROGRAM Include active serums that include Vitamin A and Vitamin C, Peptides for wrinkle management and to minimise the appearance of premature ageing. ! INTERNAL RECOMMENDATIONS — 1000 mls of Omega 3 fatty acids and a diet rich in antioxidants, as well as the use of fibre such as flaxseed and psyllium husk. A complete B group vitamin as well as vitamin C as these will support the nervous system. ! MUSIC THERAPY as this has been proven to reduce cortisol levels in certain situations. ! GREEN TEA, which is high in anti-oxidants. Black tea in moderation as this speeds up recovery from a high cortisol condition.

With a multi-faceted target approach that addresses both internal and external factors you are providing your client with much more than skin-deep therapy – you are servicing her with a total wellness antiageing program with multiple benefits and much greater value. I believe that the therapists of the future will be utilising more advanced diagnostic tools, as the need for more comprehensive solutions in not only appearance, but also wellness, is now becoming mainstream. * As aesthetic therapists it is important that we do not treat any medical conditions. If when receiving test results there is any concerns refer your client to their medical or healthcare professional for further investigation. Part of your Code of Conduct should be that you only practise within the boundaries of your qualification.

Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini. She has 17 years’ experience in the spa and beauty industry in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business step-by-step. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales and loves importing her knowledge to others. She works extensively within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer exceptional client services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success. She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive international resorts, including the Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon systems.

If you believe that Tess can help you grow your business phone 1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876.

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APJ 87

skin disorders ㄰

can develop anywhere on the skin, although it usually appears on the scalp, knees, elbows and torso. It can also affect the nails and joints.

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Forms of the condition include:

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Plaque – dry, circumscribed silvery scaly papules. At areas of

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Guttate – (teardrop like) scattered salmon pink scaly papules

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repeated trauma and pressure – extensor elbow/knee ㈵

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often caused by streptococcus Erthrodermic – generalised, non-demarcated erythema with fine scaling and pruritis (itching) Pustular – sudden onset macular presentation, evolves into discharge (weeping psoriasis) Psoriatic arthritis – mild itching, pitting of nails, oncholysis (separation of nail from bed) arthritis felt in area of psoriasis.

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Psoriasis also can be categorised by location on the body, such as scalp psoriasis, nail psoriasis, and joint psoriasis (also known as psoriatic arthritis).

A Scientific Overview on Psoriasis

by Terry Everitt Skin care professionals are constantly seeing clients who present with various skin conditions that frequently need medical attention. While referral may be the best treatment option, you can help with the armamentarium available in the aesthetic arena. In this article, Terry provides an in-depth look at one of the most common yet vexing of skin auto-immune conditions – psoriasis, and gives current treatment options, both medical and aesthetic.

The last time I wrote about Psoriasis in Australia was in 2003 and seven years on there has been a few updates in treatments, mainly biopharmacological, although sadly much remains the same in regard to this insidious skin condition with an increase number of individuals affected by it.

In 2003 it was estimated there were approximately 90 million people around the world affected by psoriasis. In 2010 that number has grown to approximately 125 million according to the International Federation of Psoriasis Associations. The Australian numbers have also grown.

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It is important to understand that psoriasis is a condition or a disorder; it is not a disease and it is classified under a group of disorders termed Immune Mediated Inflammatory Disorders (IMID).

As aestheticians, it is important that we differentiate this condition to eczema or allergic skin conditions and have a scientific understanding of how we can address it. The aesthetic profession can significantly help the patient with psoriasis, however it can equally be said that if you don’t know what you are doing, you can cause great harm and make the condition worse.

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While psoriasis is not life-threatening, it can greatly affect the appearance, self-esteem and overall quality of life of the sufferer. It

COMMON SYMPTOMS FOR DIFFERENT TYPES OF PSORIASIS The lesions of psoriasis are hyperproliferative, (fast growing) hyperaemic, (pale) abnormally thick and shed increased amounts of highly visible scales. Psoriasis plaques are packed with enormous numbers of activated T-cells which drive the inflammatory process, cause dysmaturation (lack of maturity in normal life span) of epidermal cells and impair skin function. This results in the increased trans-epidermal water loss and makes psoriatic skin more susceptible to physical and chemical irritation, thus increasing itching and irritation.

Psoriasis is often itchy and may cause painful drying, cracking or blistering of the skin. When it affecting the joints it can cause pain and make movement more difficult. Red, raised areas of skin called plaques characterise plaque psoriasis or psoriasis vulgaris, the most common form of the condition. Plaque psoriasis can range from mild to severe. Approximately 20 to 25 per cent of cases are severe. The earlier the onset, the more severe and more widespread the condition appears in later life.

Usually the presentation is bilateral and non-symmetrical, with dry, grey scaly areas that are rough and hard. Production of the keratinocytes is increased by shortening the cycle from 311 to approximately 36 hours.

Most people with psoriasis develop it in their 20s, yet psoriasis can occur at any age, even childhood. It is equally common in men and women, and is significantly more prevalent among relatives of psoriatics (those with psoriasis), with up to 30 per cent of patients having an affected first-degree relative. Studies on twins reveal a 72 per cent concordance between monozygotic twins. (These are true identical twins from the one egg that splits and forms two embryos, as opposed to dizygotic or fraternal twins who develop from two separate eggs that are fertilised by two separate sperm cells).

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CAUSES OF PSORIASIS

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The exact causes of psoriasis are complex and still not fully understood, but genetic traits leading to abnormalities in the body’s response to infection are believed to be the underlying basis. Helper T-cell lymphocytes have been identified as playing a key role in the inflammation that eventually leads to psoriasis plaques and related symptoms. Interestingly, alcohol and smoking also have a part to play.

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APJ 88

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The condition is histo-pathologically characterised by hyperproliferation of the epidermis. An accumulation of inflammatory cells, particularly T-lymphocytes, monocytes, and neutrophils; elongation and increased tortuosity of dermal papillary blood vessels, all play a part in the development of the condition.

CHICKEN OR THE EGG OF PSORIASIS ㈵

David H. Frankel reported results of a landmark study in the prestigious medical journal, The Lancet. Feb 10, 1996 v347 n8998 p386 (1), which turned the thinking of the causative factors held by the medical establishment at the time. The belief that the primary defect in psoriasis is keratinocytes gone haywire guided researchers and clinicians for many decades prior. Longstanding observation that guttate psoriasis often follows group A streptococcal infection convinced some investigators that the disease (as it was then thought) was mediated by defects in cellular immunity.

Frankel and his research team showed in controlled studies that psoriasis can be triggered when an antigen (streptococcal, for example) is presented to cutaneous T-cells by HLA-DR antigen presenting cells (APCs), which may be Langerhans cells or, possibly, keratinocytes. Activated T-cells then migrate into the epidermis and release mediators of inflammation and epidermal growth factors causing rapid turnover of keratinocytes and plaque formation. To the extent the antigen is genetically determined, psoriasis was found to be an autoimmune condition. Dr Alice Gottlieb (University of Medicine and Dentistry of New Jersey) and Rockefeller University New York, Dr James Krueger, director of the Rockefeller University Laboratory for Investigative Dermatology and Dr Gerald Weinstein (University of California, Irvine) all found the same responses.

THE THERAPIST’S ROLE The aesthetic therapist may well be the first person a client will turn too for advice – particularly if you have an established relationship with the client. There will not only be the physical manifestations that will be worrying the client, but also emotional concerns, which you may have to deal with. Referral to a dermatologist for treatment is the first step, although there is much that you can do within an aesthetic clinic. Not only are their appropriate treatments that can be provided, but also your emotional support, which is invaluable.

The rapid growth of those affected by psoriasis is alarming and, while no absolute cause is known, it is not so far a stretch to think that stress may be a causative factor. While we will not get into a discussion on stress, there is no-doubt that people are in a more stressful environment in today’s society. We know that modern day stressors are a contributing factor in the auto-immune process, and these cause the release of a number of bio-chemical responses in the body that often result in an auto-immune reaction. While it is simplistic to suggest that de-stressing the client will clear their psoriasis, stress reduction will go a long way in helping them.

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PROFESSIONAL TREATMENTS Depending on what products you have available will determine how best you can help provide relief and even help keep the condition in remission. Basically you need to carefully exfoliate without damage and heavily moisturise with lots of sunscreen. Simple really! Here are some treatment recommendations:

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Cleansing: I would suggest an oil-based cleanser with gentle movements over the affected areas. Do not worry - it is not contagious. Note however, that the areas will be more sensitive than surrounding areas so no heavy pressure. Use warm, not hot water and gently pat, not rub dry.

Exfoliation: Remove as much of the scaling as possible without getting to the germinitivum or basal layer of the epidermis. Although you may think that getting this deep would be a good thing to do, it is not. The likelyhood of extra trauma here would in fact contribute to an increase in cell production. Personally, I would go with chemical exfoliation rather than manual as there is less friction generated.

AHA, BHA or a mix – it matters not. What is important is that you know what you are doing with it. Jessner peel is great for this, except do not expect to see ‘frosting’; two – three layers only until you know how the client is reacting to it. Remember the total application amount if applying on body areas, as Jessner solution is toxic in large amounts. (It is also true of Salicylic acid). You could also use a mudbased exfoliant and occlude the application with a warm towel, then cling wrap to activate.

The various spa water treatments are great, although extra careful in the cleaning afterwards – may need to shovel the dead skin out! Water vapour is great, so use the steamer, although it is advisable to keep it a little further away from the skin than usual. Any of the wet wraps would be of help. As mentioned, I would be causing an occlusion wherever possible in these treatments. Occlusion also works best on stubborn lesions that are not widespread, in places like the hands, feet, elbows, knees and scalp.

Microdermabrasion is useful, however you may find it not worth the bother given the excessive amounts of cellular debris the machine needs to deal with. With microdermabrasion you need very light passes and again, no heavy pressure.

Some very specific laser work can also be employed, however I would regard this as high risk and you really need to know what you are doing – this is truly advanced technical modality administration.

The same applies to the more advance techniques such as flash dose, rotation and alternation treatments, which I will not cover here, as indepth knowledge of the skin and the bio-chemical reactions are required to know how far to go with the differing presentations.

Massage:

AESTHETIC TREATMENTS ㄰ 㤵 㜵

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Psoriasis patients would agree that there is nothing easy about taking care of their skin. The challenges include preventing dryness that can lead to painful cracking, reducing the persistent build-up of scales, as well as finding relief from the nagging itch. Good skin care can also maximise the effects of medical therapy. This gives us a very good insight as to what is required both from the skincare professional as well as the client’s homecare. Believe me, they are going to ask how to keep their skin looking good and it better be you who tells them rather than the person at the supermarket or department store.

Pressure point massage or manual lymphatic drainage is the way to go. Lighter effleurage movements are OK – (will not help the psoriasis, but does feel great and will help minimised the client’s stress levels, but don’t bother with the friction or vibration movements. Electrical machinery is not contraindicated here.

Remember, that the lesions are dry; therefore conductivity will be reduced; however they may find heightened sensitivity to any electrical current application.

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Moisturisation:

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It may be a good idea to use a toner between treatment steps to keep the skin damp and do not let it dry. Oil-based moisturiser is best for

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this client – actually may need a heavier cream for the psoriasis lesions and a lighter one for the rest of the skin if you think this is appropriate.

Essential Fatty Acids (EFA) are important to maintain in the skin. The use of Linoleic and Linolenic acids are of great use with this skin – Evening Primrose oil or lecithin are a high priority (better known perhaps as Omega 6 and Omega 3 oils).

Sunscreen:

I would suggest at least a SPF30, broad-spectrum (or total block) – no less for this type of client.

Essential oils that can be of benefit:

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Anger – When the denial breaks down, anger enters with the realisation of the condition at which stage they question “why me?”

Bargaining – They may find themself thinking, “If the condition could clear for a few more months, I would be so thankful.”

Depression – Following the bargaining phase are overwhelming feelings of hopelessness, frustration, bitterness and self-pity. Feeling lack of control, feeling numb and perhaps even feeling suicidal.

Acceptance – The final stage is when they feel more at peace with psoriasis and the limitations it imposes, reaching the stage of acceptance of the condition.

Sedative – Ylang ylang, Valerian, Sandalwood, Melissa, Clary-sage Inflammation – Yarrow, Tea tree, Chamomile, Lavender, Patchouli Dry skin – Geranium, Hyssop, Neroli, Rose, Patchouli, Bois de Rose, Benzoin Feel good (anti-depression) – Bergamot, Bois-de-rose, Jasmine, Ylang ylang, Frankincense.

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Psoriasis can have profound effects on both the social and professional arenas. It can make dating or starting relationships awkward or difficult and some people with psoriasis avoid social settings altogether. Those with more severe psoriasis may find it difficult to work, or may feel acutely self-conscious in public situations. Psoriasis also can be notoriously unpredictable. Plaques may worsen seemingly without reason, even with treatment, just as they may improve without explanation. At times, the sufferer may feel as if they are on an emotional roller coaster over which they have little control. This can be demoralising, potentially leading to anxiety and depression. ㄰

MOVING TOWARD SELF-ACCEPTANCE 㤵 㜵

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People often blame themselves when they experience unfortunate situations over which they have little or no control. It is important to remember that psoriasis is not the person’s fault. They did not cause it.

Over time, people with chronic psoriasis come to experience their condition differently than they did when were first diagnosed. They may even likely go through the five stages of grief which as:

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Denial – This is the tendency to believe that psoriasis simply is not happening to them.

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Ways that psoriasis sufferers can be helped. In one study, patients experienced less depression and anxiety – and better physical health – if they did the following:

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Sought social support Openly expressed their feelings and emotions about their condition Understood that the condition was not curable S o u g h t m o r e distractions/activities

Connecting with other psoriasis patients – through an on-line buddy program or bulletin board, or a local support group – provides validation and relief to many. It can be a powerful experience to see that your feelings and fears are common to the psoriasis illness experience.

As previously mentioned, the client will present with emotional concerns along with the scaly skin. People who have psoriasis tend to by identified by a number of common emotional and social characteristics including:

Poor self-esteem and self-confidence Increased social isolation A tendency to minimise the emotional difficulties posed by the illness Criticising oneself for an inability to control the illness Feeling “defective” or less than whole

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EFFECTIVE COPING

PSYCHOLOGICAL AND SOCIAL RESPONSES

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In Australia the national “psoriasis association” is known as PSORIASIS AUSTRALIA and is based in Ashburton, Victoria. Psoriasis Australia strives to assist people with psoriasis, or those wanting to know about psoriasis by providing beneficial information and support enabling educated decisions to be made on treatment choices and lifestyle changes.

Many Psoriatics (those with psoriasis) have a need to communicate with others who can empathise with their problems. Psoriasis Australia provides a forum where sufferers can learn how others handle problems, and provide suggestions on how to cope better when disgruntled and disillusioned with their condition and treatments. The organisation holds quarterly meetings with feature guest speakers discussing various aspects on psoriasis. For further information you can contact Psoriasis Australia by phone 03 9813 8080, email info@psoriasisaustralia.org.au or through their website http://home.vicnet.net.au/~psorias/

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HOME CARE INSTRUCTIONS

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Here I have written homecare instructions to assist with psoriasis client. Feel free to copy and customise for the benefit of your clients:

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Washing: Short, lukewarm showers are better for your skin than longer, hot ones. (Warmer skin allows more water loss and dehydrated skin is not the effect you are wanting). Perfumes and astringents can be irritating

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to sensitive skin, so use a mild, fragrance-free cleanser to wash. An oil-based cleanser is the better option for the psoriasis-affected areas as the surfactants (bubble causing agents) can cause dryness with the psoriasis.

Exfoliation: ㈵

The more you can remove the dry, top layer of scale, the better topical and light therapies will be able to penetrate the underlying plaque. Be careful however to remove only the top layers – not all the scaly skin.

This could make the condition even worse than it is. Use the exfoliants as described and recommended by your skincare professional. Do not overdo it – More is not better in this case.

Salicylic Acid if used should not be applied to more than 20 per cent of the body surface. The body can absorb the acid leading to toxicity if too much is used at the same time and over a period of time.

Moisturising:

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Severely misshapen nails, called onychodystrophy Separation of the nail from the nail bed, called onycholysis

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Nail psoriasis can sometimes be painful; one study reports that about one-half of patients with nail psoriasis restricted daily activity due to pain. About one-third of people with nail psoriasis may have a fungal infection, which, if treated, could help their nails to improve. Some treatments used for skin psoriasis also may improve the condition of the nails.

Here are a few handy hints that will help:

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Trim your nails to reduce the risk of injuring them; trauma can worsen nail psoriasis.

Try soaking affected nails and follow with moisturiser.

Carefully file thickened toenails after soaking.

Reduce toenail pressure and friction – which can cause toenails to thicken, by wearing well-fitted, roomy shoes.

Consider using nail hardeners or artificial nails that can help to improve the appearance of intact nails.

Nails may be surgically removed and replaced with artificial nails.

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There are two types of moisturisers (in case you are wondering): Occlusive agents, such as petrolatum, mineral oil and cocoa butter, coat the skin, slowing moisture loss. Humectant agents, which may include glycerin, urea, hyaluronic acid and others, draw water from the lower levels of skin, up to the surface. The best moisturisers contain both occlusive and humectant agents. For psoriasis, a heavier, ‘greasier’ moisturiser is best. Apply to a damp skin – and always remember to pat the skin dry, don’t rub with the towel.

MEDICAL TREATMENTS

Skin is usually itchy because it is dry. The best remedy is to apply a moisturiser often, especially immediately after a bath or shower. If you have the urge to scratch, try not to. You may irritate the psoriasis, or break the skin, which could lead to infection. Try applying a cold, wet towel to the spot. If the itching persists, or keeps you awake at night, ask your doctor for advice. Many patients also find relief by soaking in a warm colloidal oatmeal bath or use of essential oil blends in the bath for relief.

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There are a lot of good reasons to keep moisture in the skin. It maintains a healthy skin barrier, while softening scale and reducing the possibility of painful cracking due to dry skin. It also leaves the top layer of skin more permeable for topical application of medication.

Itching:

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!

Because this is a common condition and no one treatment helps all sufferers, there are a variety of different treatments. Several are available without prescription. Treatments are often rotated or used in combination to control psoriasis. It is not an easy condition to control as there are so many individual triggers that may activate the condition. The biggest advance in treatment is with the use of biological therapies, which either target T-cells or block proinflammatory cytokines (inflammation causing bio-chemicals).

These essentially are antibodies causing binding that interferes with T-cell activation in lymph nodes and T-cell trafficking to skin and interferes with their activation and re-activation in the skin What is important to note is that psoriasis can ‘rebound’ after stopping a drug or therapy. In a rebound episode the disease frequently becomes unstable and rapidly more severe than before therapy. It is vital that you reinforce the importance of having their doctor slowly wean them off medication and not for the client to stop taking medication as the systems improve.

Sunscreen: Do not forget the sunscreen. Many treatments can leave your skin extra-sensitive to the sun and at risk for burning. For example, if you are using topical or systemic retinoids, It is recommend that you wear at least SPF 30+ sunscreen with total block when you go outdoors. If you are undergoing light therapies, particularly PUVA, protect your face or other body parts that are free from psoriasis and be careful about getting sun exposure after the treatment. Again SPF 30+ is vital.

HERE ARE SOME TREATMENT OPTIONS: Cortisone (Steroid) creams Cortisone is the most common topical treatment for psoriasis and helpful in reducing inflammation and irritation. The main concern with all cortisone creams is that thinning of the skin can occur with long term treatment.

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NAIL PSORIASIS Did you know that nail changes, which affect between 10 to 55 per cent of people who have psoriasis, are more common in the fingernails than toes?

Nail psoriasis can cause: ㈵

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Nail discolouration, often a yellowish-brown colour Pitting or small holes in the nail

Tar has been used for over one hundred years and is usually effective in treating psoriasis. Unfortunately, it can be smelly and stains clothing. Tars are made from the distillation of coal and wood. They can be used as creams and shampoos. Application is usually at night to minimise odour during the day. Tars can also make the skin more sensitive to the sun, increasing the risk of sunburn.

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Calcipotriol

SMOKING, ALCOHOL AND PSORIASIS

Calcipotriol is a medication related to Vitamin D. The main danger, apart from irritation is the possibility of increasing the level of calcium in the blood.

Smoking and alcohol also play a part in psoriasis so if you need a little help in getting your psoriatics off the booze and cigs, then these studies may help.

Dithranol

“Smoking could account for one quarter of all cases.” This was the title of a report by Hywel C. Williams, in the British Medical Journal.

Feb 12, 1994 v308 n6926 p428(2). His findings are reported thus: “Psoriasis is a common and chronic disease that is not thought to kill.

Little is known about mortality in this patient group, although alcohol- and smoking-related diseases are associated with psoriasis, and patients with psoriasis have reported higher alcohol and cigarette consumption than control patients in several studies since O'Doherty and MacIntyre first drew attention to the strong link between smoking habits and palmoplantar pustular psoriasis in 1985. Quite possibly people might be more willing to change their habits because of a current and socially debilitating skin disorder than because of long term risks of cancer and ischaemic heart disease.”

Dithranol is similar to tar and is made from the bark of a tree. It can be used in a thick ointment that is left on overnight, sometimes under dressings, or applied in higher concentrations for 10-15 minutes before removal. The main potential problems with dithranol are irritation of the skin, temporary skin discolouration and permanent staining of fabric.

Light Treatment The majority of patients with psoriasis find that they improve after exposure to the sun and the use of ultraviolet light in the shorter wavelengths as used in a cabinet treatment. There are three main types of ultraviolet (UV) light treatment used in Australia to treat psoriasis:

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Narrow Band UVB – single band of UVB light (around 311 nm) Broad Band UVB – using the complete band of UVB light PUVA – this is the administration of psoralens, natural substances which come from plants like celery and combined with UVA.

This involves standing in a cabinet to receive a measured dose of the appropriate wavelength of light from a number of fluorescent tubes around the walls of the cabinet. Unfortunately, as is widely known, ultraviolet light can encourage skin cancer. Consequently, patients are generally discouraged from simply exposing their skin to the sun.

Because it is a powerful and potentially dangerous treatment, practitioners skilled in its use should only administer ultraviolet light.

This is not for the Beauty Therapist to try. Disadvantages include the need for several treatments a week over several weeks, and long term damage to the skin including a possible increased risk of skin cancers, and increased skin (photo) ageing.

Oral Treatments A number of tablet treatments are available but all cause potentially significant side effects. These treatments include methotrexate, acitretin and cyclosporin. Careful choice of therapy and skilled monitoring reduce the potential risks of these therapies, which are generally very effective in controlling even severe cases of psoriasis.

With appropriate treatment psoriasis can be well controlled for the vast majority of sufferers and a normal lifestyle enjoyed.

Here are the Psoriasis Statistics as indicated by the Australian Bureau of Statistic 2001 National Health Survey.

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143,000 (1.5%) of male population self-reported having psoriasis 192,000 (2.0%) of female population self-reported having psoriasis 335,000 (1.8%) of population self-reported having psoriasis in Australia 2001

WORLD PSORIASIS DAY Since 2004, October 29 has been World Psoriasis Day, an annual day specially dedicated to people with psoriasis and/or psoriatic arthritis.

World Psoriasis Day is a global event that sets out to give an international voice for those with psoriasis/psoriatic arthritis around the world, to raise the profile of a condition, which needs to be taken more seriously by national and international authorities.

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‘Excess Mortality Related to Alcohol and Smoking Among Hospital-Treated Patients With Psoriasis’. Another major report by the researchers Kari Poikolainen, Jaakho Karvonen, Eero Pukkala, published in the Archives of Dermatology. Dec 1999 v135 i12 p1490.

A cohort was identified from the nationwide Hospital Discharge Register from January 1, 1973, through December 31, 1984, and mortality was followed up for 22 years by linkage with the Cause-ofDeath Register, from January 1, 1973, through December 31, 1995.

The study subjects were 3132 men and 2555 women admitted to inpatient treatment with psoriasis as the principal diagnosis. Without all the details the result findings were total and absolute. The researchers wrote as their Conclusion: “We observed 1918 deaths in contrast to the 1211 deaths expected on the basis of the national mortality rates.

Patients with moderate to severe psoriasis who also smoke and drink are at increased risk for death. Alcohol is a major cause for this excess mortality.”

If this was not enough, another landmark study was published in the Journal of the American Medical Association, March 8, 2000 v283 i10 p1273. Luigi Naldi et al. Based at the Clinica Dermatologica, Ospedli Riuniti, L go Barozzi 1,24100 Bergamo, Italy, looked at the same influences on those with psoriasis. From Outpatient services of 10 general and 10 teaching hospitals in northern and southern Italy, a total of 404 case patients (median age, 35 years) and 616 controls (median age, 36 years) were included in the analysis. The study went for 15 years. Again, I have left all the details and gone to the end result of the study. Results: “The risk for psoriasis was higher in ex-smokers and in current smokers than in patients who never smoked. The relation with smoking was stronger and more consistent among women than men. In men, a significant association was restricted to the ex-smoker status. Smoking was strongly associated with pustular lesions (29 patients) with an adjusted odds ratio of 10.5 (95% confidence interval, 3.3-33.5) for those smoking more than 15 cigarettes per day. No significant overall association with alcohol consumption was documented after controlling for smoking habits.

However, the risk seemed to vary according to sex, with a moderate association being documented in men.

Conclusions: Cigarette smoking and, in men, alcohol consumption are associated with psoriasis. There is a strong association between smoking and pustular lesions”.

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salon business ㄰

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Survival Strategies for better staff performance

By Tina Viney

Treat customers like guests and employees like people. Thomas J. Peters I think you would all agree with me that the past few months have been financially exceptionally challenging. Through our own interaction and feedback from our industry we can confirm that some have been hit hard. Numerous salons have reported that they have had to cut back staff numbers as a result of a decrease in consumer spending. Some have indicated that they have had to cut back staff to a third.

On the other hand, some more stoic individuals may state that the global financial crisis has been cathartic for purging the "committed from the non-committed", providing an organic cleansing process from mediocrity and complacent practices. However, others have observed that this change has also created new problems such as a shift in staff morale that has affected their business.

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to redefine your business's culture as positive and solid. Here are some questions you need to consider: ! What does the business look like after staff redundancies? ! What new measure will you implement to mesh the new team as a productive unit? ! What lessons have you learnt when staff members have had to work under duress, and what coping mechanism do you need to put in place to support them and improve their morale? ! With the changes, what conversations are the remaining staff members having in the morning tearoom that may cause a shift in their work attitude?

The truth is, even if more efficient businesses will emerge stronger as a result of rigorous review and adjustments, we should all get the message that we can enjoy "good times" when they come, but always understand that they may also be transient. So what do we do when that happens?

You need to be aware of the mood changes in your business and take responsibility to ensure the right attitude and morale are fostered by you. The reason for this is that if suspicion and negativity creep into your staff they can in turn contribute to unproductive disharmony.

You may have your culture defined in your "Policies and Procedures", but your staff will not be able to carry them out without your renewed encouragement, support and positive reinforcement of what you stand for.

HOW HAS CHANGE AFFECTED YOUR CULTURE

HOW CAN YOU INFLUENCE CHANGE?

Today's economic climate has shifted the business mindset considerably. While realigning business practices and strategies through tighter measures, there are also the interpersonal and staff morale issues that need to be considered, especially where redundancies have occurred and procedures have altered and tightened up. With these changes comes the need to take a closer look and re-evaluation of how your staff has been impacted and take charge

It is your responsibility as a leader to influence the attitude, behaviour and mood of your workforce. Experts tell us that it is considered that 70 per cent of a business's demeanour is a direct reflection of the demeanour of the person at the head of the group. This will either be you or your staff manager. The conclusion is that positive and constructive leadership will, in turn, produce positive and constructive staff members. It is your responsibility to establish and

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demonstrate by example what is the acceptable conduct and others will follow you. Here are some useful recommendations: ! Make sure what you tell others to do is what you do yourself.

Walk your talk, be visible in this, positive and proactive, look forward not back, stimulate hope that changes will lead to improvement and better job outcomes. Be selective with whom you surround yourself with – choose positive, not toxic people.

Bring joy to the workplace and try to make it fun. ! Utilise new technology to minimise long-winded manual routine procedures. Offer support and build trust with your staff through a caring attitude. Review ways to engage your staff and build a cohesive team. ! Return to the basics of efficiency, productivity and service with a smile. ! Communicate frequently and always be available for any questions or concerns from your staff. Be honest, affirming and articulate positive expectations for any situation and give good reasons for any changes. Focus on initiatives that will bring improvement to the way things are done.

TAKE THE LEAD Despite the changing world we live in be encouraged that at the end of it all none of the business imperatives for success have really changed.

These include staying profitable, retaining and growing your customer base, remaining competitive and keeping your staff efficient and motivated – all these are still considered the core business essentials. How you achieve these outcomes may now require some changes to the way you are doing things, however, the power of a caring and positive environment can help encourage your team’s loyalty and support. Together as a cohesive team you can work through any challenge, and for this reason the intangible qualities that spring from a positive attitude are worth cultivating.

Tattooed on the cerebral cortex of each and every staff member should be the intrinsic desire to provide each client with excellent service and incredible results. Overall, clients should leave your premises having undergone an exceptional experience they will look forward to repeating. However, this cannot be achieved with weary and depressed staff. Their needs must first be met if they are to deliver on those expectations.

HERE ARE A FEW MORE RECOMMENDATIONS:

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Aim to engender a stable and motivated work environment that is not driven by fear or uncertainty, but by each and every team member contributing through their abilities and talents to the growth and prosperity of the business.

Coach each team member through relevant and regular briefings to support their needs. Identify each member's strengths and what they are good at and praise this regularly, reinforcing their belief in themselves so that they continue to excel in these areas.

Be timely and accurate if you want to set this standard in your business.

Make sure that all verbal communication is also supported with written policies that are clear, succinct and easy to follow.

Make sure you spend more time with new staff and listen to their needs to ensure they are convinced of your support. In that way they will in turn offer you the best they can.

If you identify a leader, mentor this quality and offer then a job description with more initiative requirements that will give them better self-expression. If you don't they will definitely leave.

At the end of the day, a happy team is a productive team, so invest in developing your own leadership role by investing in your own training, regularly checking your own attitude to ensure you are leading by example.

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The Charles Schulz Philosophy 1. Name the five wealthiest people in the world.

2. Name the last five Heisman trophy winners.

3. Name the last five winners of the Miss America pageant.

4 Name 10 people who have won the Nobel or Pulitzer Prize.

5. Name the last half-dozen Academy Award winners for best actor and actress.

6. Name the last decade's worth of World Series Winners.

How did you do?

The point is, none of us remember the headlines of yesterday.

These are no second-rate achievers.

They are the best in their fields.

But the applause dies Awards tarnish Achievements are forgotten.

Accolades and certificates are buried with their owners.

Here's another quiz. See how you do on this one: 1. List a few teachers who aided your journey through school.

2. Name three friends who have helped you through a difficult time.

3. Name five people who have taught you something worthwhile.

4. Think of a few people who have made you feel appreciated and special!

5. Think of five people you enjoy spending time with. ㄰

Did you find this was easier?

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THE LESSON YOU NEED TO REMEMBER:

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The people you will always remember are not the ones with the most credentials, the most money, or the most awards. They simply are the ones who care the most and who have had a positive input in your life.

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SCIENTIFIC NEWS

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This section presents news and research information relating to skin and anti-ageing discoveries. ㈵

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In addition the survey showed that the number of non-surgical procedures performed by plastic surgeons has topped surgical procedures for the first time.

The top five non-surgical procedures were: toxins or neuromodulators injections (Botox, Dysport) (32.7 per cent), hyaluronic acid injections (20.1 per cent), laser hair removal (13.1 per cent), autologous fat injections (5.9 per cent) and IP Laser treatment (4.4 percent).

ISAPS lists plastic surgery 'hotspots' Australia has just made it into the list of the world's Top 25 countries for plastic surgeons and procedures, according to the International Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgery (ISAPS).

In Australia the number of surgical procedures performed by board-certified plastic surgeons in 2009 was 62,300, while the number of non-surgical procedures performed by boardcertified plastic surgeons was 67,900, a total of 130,200 procedures.

Australia was ranked 21st in the Institute's Biennial Global Survey list of countries with the most surgical and non-surgical cosmetic procedures in 2009.

ISAPS president Foad Nahai said the survey of plastic surgeons and procedures reveals a new hierarchy of countries with the most surgical and non-surgical cosmetic procedures.

"While the United States continues its dominance in the field, countries not always associated with plastic surgery are emerging as major centres," he said.

The top 25 countries and regions were:

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1. United States 2. China 3. Brazil 4. India 5. Mexico 6. Japan 7. South Korea 8. Germany 9. Turkey 10. Spain 11. Argentina 12. Russia 13. Italy

14. France 15. Canada 16. Taiwan 17. United Kingdom 18. Colombia 19. Greece 20. Thailand 21. Australia 22. Venezuela 23. Saudi Arabia 24. Netherlands 25. Portugal

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The survey also revealed that liposuction is now the world's most popular plastic surgery procedure, representing 18.8 per cent of all procedures, followed by breast augmentation at 17 per cent, blepharoplasty (upper or lower eyelid lift) at 13.5 per cent, rhinoplasty at 9.4 per cent and abdominoplasty ('tummy tuck') at 7.3 per cent.

ANTIOXIDANTS IN COFFEE Plant phenols are a large and diverse group of compounds including cinnamic acids, benzoic acids, flavonoids, proanthocyanidins, stilbenes, coumarins, lignans and lignins. It has been shown that plant phenols have strong antioxidant activity in vitro (1). As a result it has been hypothesised that plant phenols might protect cellular DNA, lipids and proteins from free radical- mediated damage in vivo. Since free radicals are believed to play a role in the development of chronic diseases such as cardiovascular disease and cancer then the consumption of plant phenols may protect against these diseases. As reviewed recently, five out of seven published observational epidemiological studies have shown that flavonols protect against cardiovascular disease but only one out of four studies showed that they protect against cancer (2). Hence the available evidence for a protective effect of flavonols against cardiovascular disease and cancer is far from conclusive and other categories of plant phenols have yet to be investigated.

Chlorogenic acids are a family of esters formed between trans-cinnamic acids and quinic acid.

The commonest individual chlorogenic acid is formed between caffeic acid and quinic acid. It has been shown that both chlorogenic acid and caffeic acid are strong antioxidants in vitro (1).

Coffee beans are one of the richest dietary sources of chlorogenic acid and for many consumers this will be their major dietary source (3). It has been reported that a 200 ml cup of arabica coffee contains between 70 and 200 mg chlorogenic acid, whereas a cup of robusta coffee contains between 70 and 350 mg (3). It has been estimated that coffee drinkers might ingest as much as 1 g per day cinnamate esters (mostly chlorogenic acid) and 500 mg per day cinnamates (mostly caffeic acid). Coffee could supply as much as 70% of the total, making it far and away the most important dietary source of this group of antioxidants (3).

The amount of chlorogenic acid or caffeic acid available to act as an antioxidant in vivo will depend on absorption from the gut, which may be incomplete, and any subsequent metabolism which may be extensive. It has recently been demonstrated that humans absorb about 33% of ingested chlorogenic acid and about 95% of ingested caffeic acid (4). A study of human chlorogenic acid metabolism showed that the unabsorbed chlorogenic acid which reaches the colon is hydrolysed to caffeic acid and quinic acid by the colonic microflora (5). Following dehydroxylation by the colonic microflora, absorption and further metabolism in the liver and kidney, benzoic acid is formed and conjugated to glycine to form hippuric acid.

About half the ingested chlorogenic acid appears as urinary hippuric acid (5). This metabolism can be expected to considerably diminish the antioxidant activity of chlorogenic acid in vivo as hippuric acid has no antioxidant activity.

The roasting of coffee beans dramatically increases their total antioxidant activity. A roasting time of 10 minutes (medium-dark roast) was found to produce coffee with optimal oxygen-scavenging and chain-breaking activities in vitro (6). A study of robusta and arabica coffees from six different countries showed that robusta samples contained significantly more reducing substances than arabica samples and that protective activity measured ex vivo was significantly greater in roasted samples than in green coffee (7). Using the ABTS+ method (the gold standard), it was confirmed that light roast or medium roast coffee has a significantly higher antioxidant activity in vitro than green coffee (8). This

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difference was observed despite a 19% and 45% decrease in the chlorogenic acid content of light and medium roast coffee respectively implying that other compounds make significant contributions to the total antioxidant activity of roasted coffee. Melanoidins are brown polymers formed by the Maillard reaction during the roasting of coffee beans and account for up to 25% of the dry matter. It has recently been shown by the ABTS+ method that coffee melanoidins have significant antioxidant activity in vitro (9).

The total antioxidant activities of different plant phenol- containing beverages have been compared. Using a method based on the ex vivo oxidation of low density lipoprotein (LDL), it has been shown that coffee has significantly more total antioxidant activity than either cocoa, green tea, black tea or herbal tea (10). Using the ABTS+ method, it has been confirmed that coffee has a significantly greater total antioxidant activity in vitro than cola, beer, a variety of fruit juices, lemon ice tea or black tea (11). A study conducted in 2004 looked at dietary sources of antioxidants and found that the single greatest contributor to total antioxidant intake was coffee (12). A further study in 2006 (13) set out to determine the content of phenolic acids in the most consumed fruits and beverages. Coffee, as well as black and green teas were the best source among beverages with coffee containing 97mg/100 g while teas contained 30-36 mg/100 g.

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It can be concluded that coffee possesses greater in-vitro antioxidant activity than other beverages, due in part to intrinsic compounds such as chlorogenic acid, in part to compounds formed during roasting such as melanoidins and in part to as yet unidentified compounds.

Authors of a study published in 2002 (14) suggested that uric acid was the main component responsible for plasma antioxidant capacity increase after tea drinking, whereas molecules other than uric acid (probably phenolic compounds) are likely to be responsible for the increase in plasma antioxidant capacity after coffee drinking. Whether the antioxidants characteristic of coffee are protective against chronic diseases such as cardiovascular disease and cancer remains to be determined. Research continues, and the conclusion of a study published in 2006 (15) consisting of a cohort of 41,836 postmenopausal women, was that 'Consumption of coffee, a major source of dietary antioxidants, may inhibit inflammation and thereby reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease and other inflammatory diseases in postmenopausal women'.

It should be noted that these results of course refer to a specific sub group and it would not, at this stage, be appropriate to extrapolate them across to the general population before further research clarifies these conclusions.

References: 1. Rice-Evans, C.A. et al. Free Radical Biology and Medicine, 20, 933-956, 1996.

2. Hollman, P.C.H. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, 81, 842-852, 2001.

3. Clifford, M.N. et al. Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture, 79, 362-372, 1999.

4. Olthof, M.R. et al. Journal of Nutrition, 131, 66-71, 2001.

5. Olthof, M.R. et al. Journal of Nutrition, 133, 1806-1814, 2003.

6. Nicoli, M.C. et al. Lebensmittel, Wissenschaft und Technologie, 30, 292-297, 1997.

7. Daglia, M. et al. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 48, 1449-1454, 2000.

8. Del Castillo, M.D. et al. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 50, 36983703, 2002.

9. Borrelli, R.C. et al. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 50, 6527-6533, 2002.

10. Richelle, M. et al. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 49, 3438-3442, 2001.

11. Pellegrini, N. et al. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry,51, 260-264,2003.

12. Svilaas, A. et al. Journal of Nutrition, 134, 562-567, 2004.

13.Mattila P et al, 14. Natelle, F. et al. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 50, 6211-6216, 2002.

15. Frost Andersen, L. et al. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 83, 2006.

A DEEPER SIGHT INTO GENETICS Taking a peek into your future health status could be as simple as looking at your genes, according to world renowned preventative health expert Dr Michael Klentze. Dr Klentze was a speaker at the 4th Annual 2010 Conference

in Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine in Melbourne on the 20-22 August where he presented the latest research discoveries on the role of genetics in longevity.

Dr Klentze confirmed that it's accepted knowledge that chronic inflammation is the underlying cause of the ageing process.

Inflammation is a silent process that ravages the body over many years causing progressive age related changes.

Genetic research has uncovered a series of genetic markers, which represent a person's susceptibility to chronic inflammation. In the right combination these genes can either make someone prone to chronic inflammation or immune to chronic inflammation.

It was further presented that if you have a genetic resistance to inflammation your health is going to be typically better, your life span significantly longer and as you age you will have fewer agerelated problems. Understanding the process is vital to developing ways in which we can manage chronic inflammation in individuals who have lower genetic resistance.

Dr Klentze also stated that genetic research is also looking at the role of genes in an individual's predisposition to get or resist certain diseases.

Many common diseases occur because of complex interactions among multiple genes as well as environmental and lifestyle factors. Understanding the role of genetic fact ors in disease will also allow researchers to better evaluate the role that non-genetic factors, such as behaviour, diet, lifestyle and physical activity will play on longevity.

Another area that was discussed was the area of genetic research in pharmacogenetics, which is discovering how an individual's genotype affects his or her response to medication.

Genetics could hold the key to a revolution in the way pharmaceuticals are made and prescribed.

This research gives us an insight into how medications can be tailored to maximise their effect on an individual and hold the key to creating specifically tailored pharmaceutical and hormone therapies for patients.

Of particular interest were treatments such as chemotherapy and HRT, which may be far more effective when they can be uniquely designed for each patient.

"There is great potential in harnessing what we learn from genetic research to develop a battery of new medications which can be altered to suit a patient's unique genetic makeup,”Dr Klentze said.

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